Bazmak Diary of a Linishing Machine

[goldstar31]

Sorry to break in on a very interesting discussion about joints and so on. Don't get me wrong, I am most interested. I've got a belt sander and another belt sander and so on.

But it started off 'belt sanding' lathe tools. I'm not an advocate of such things and techniques. I'm capable of getting quite hot under the collar but you have a disk sander part of the set up- with a protractor. Right?

If you tip the table or make a couple ( say 10 and 5 degrees) of plates( wood?) you can do far better lathe tools.

My bit of thinking.- well, not really because I bought a lathe ( a baby Zyto) from the estate of an expert of Gauge 1 locos. He had used an emery disk stuck on a plywood disk on the lathe faceplate.

So regards

Norman

 

[bazmak]

Hi Goldstar,i posted earlier about sanding hss tools.Set the belt sander at one angle and the protractor at another to get a compound angle,and rough ground
a no of tools.Not recommended engineering practice but for roughing a no of tools it does save on wear on the grinding wheels which was my intention.
It will not produce a keen cutting edge so has to be fine tuned with wheel and stone.The main point being that the angle/clearances are accurate and can be just touched up.My next thought was t buy a cup wheel for the mill and come up with an adjustable fixture as a tool and cutter grinder for endmills etc

 

[goldstar31]

Morning Baz- from a very cold and chilly UK.

A few points which I hope will not cause too much offence but others are reading your most interesting dissertation as well.

The first point is 'sanding' and respectfully, there is no sand in the grit used to better tools. It went out when people stopped using stone effigees in English churchyards Again, I cannot get my head around and understand why you are loathe to concentrate on 'sanding belts' as opposed to abrasive wheels. It is possible and desirable to choose grit size AND grit grade which is available in wheels whatever binder is used. I've made modified resin binders at one time- I'm there or was.

So apologies for being a grumpy old git but I am trying to help.

So let us examine one facet on your lathe tool. It is bright and shiny all the way down - and that is ALL of 3/8th or 1/2". The question is can your little lathe do a depth of cut ALL that depth? Well, mine is a bit bigger than yours and has far longer and more supporting gibs- and cannot get anywhere near that. Often I am very happy to cut a weeny bit of steel dust off a job as if it was black dust far finer than the finest steel wool. So why should I have a bright and shiny lathe tool face that is doing nothing but looking nice?
The answer is a rough grind for most of the tool and a secondary HONED edge or a third which will be sufficient to get the amount of metal that my lathe is powerful enough to remove without shaking it to bits. Replacing the honed edge does not require any removal of unused tool face- or grit or sand or whatever.

Enough of that? Sorry but that is my take.

As for tool and cutter grinders, I would think that if you only want to do ends of end mills and slot drills, something simpler than making a Quorn is to be considered. I've made one and I can use it- but it is under the bench. Depending on what job I want, I use either my big Clarkson or a fabricated Stent or a Kennet. I also use an Arkansas stone or rough 600 grit diamond one- by hand.
Looking back, I could happily settle for nothing more elaborate than a Kennet or if price was a consideration making a Tinker out of a cheap Chinese 6" double ended grinder and some bits out of my scrap bin.

I hope that you will appreciate that these are my views. Whether you or anyone else wants to accept them is a matter of choice.

Meantime, it is snowing and I ain't going nowhere

Norman

 

[bazmak]

In reply to your comment on one facet of my tool grind.The tool is nice and shiny all of the 3/8 of depth simply because the initial rough grind can only be done as that,but the rake clearance needs to be all the way.I agree that the final honed edge only needs to be that.To the edge,which i stated in my original post.In answer to the rest of your comments.I have a 1.5m x 4m workshop and 2 small bench grinders.It is simpler and cheaper to do the rough grinding on the linisher.To be pedantic.Sanding,sandpaper etc is a remnant of my woodworking past.In my youth sandpaper was just that.Now it is carborundum etc
But go easy with me its all sanding to me, sounds better than caburundum abrasion.Where in the UK is it snowing,i was originally from Leeds but thats my problem.I am looking for a simple tool and cutter grinder that is within my capabilities to make.Enjoy the weather.Its around the $0os at the moment

 

[goldstar31]

Hi Baz
Leeds? 100 miles south of Newcastle.

Tool and Cutter grinder question. How simple is simple? Probably the simplest to make is the Norman Tinker( ex Nottingham) but drawings etc from Canada. Never made one but it always appeared to be a bit of a b****r to set up. Made a Quorn- again difficult to make but a so and so to use. Mine is under the bench!- rusting.
So have a look at the Brooks on GadgetBuilder.com. It is less difficult than the Quorn and is a sort of baby Clarkson but it doesn;t need castings. Never made one- looks easier than the Stent and the simplest is the Kennet- but the castings are HEAVY- out of Chesterfield.

So if the Brooks takes your fancy, I have the articles and whilst there are a few alterations required, it should be a very nice toy to drive from one of DE Grinders.

So E-mail me with yours to get a copy.

Meanwhile cheers from the Abdominal Showman!

Norm

 

[bazmak]

Sorry to break in again but another mod to the linisher
Originally the disc was 6" dia which i increased to 7" dia with velcro pads.This little machine was getting so much use that i decided to up the disc to the next size 9" again with velcro pads.Just enough room
I needed to raise the unit approx 10mm for ground clearance so i fitted 4 anti-vibration mountings
betweem the unit and the frame.(4 rubber door stops).I then cut a 9" disc from 12mm ply and fitted
Turned down to size and true with a wood chisel in situ.Fitted the velcro
backing disc and a couple of SANDING discs.Next will an improvement to the sliding protractor.Cant believe i bought this unit for less than $70 purely for wood.Its fantastic for grinding off hard welds that even a carbide tip in the mill struggles with.

 

[bazmak]

After posting a couple of photos from this thread regarding making
brass gibbs without a mill and a no of questions i have ressurected the thread
deleted the photobucket and replaced the photos which are not necessarily in order.
This unit which is cheaply available is like the chinese mini lathe
not much cop to start with but easily mods up to make an indispensible tool
I have a couple of years under my belt and it really is the Bees Knees
If anybody has one or is going to buy one please ask any specific questions
i will be glad to answer and take more photos to upload

 

[JCSteam]

Thank you for finding this thread, I know it was for my benefit but should be good read to there that haven't seen it, I'll have a good read through over my morning cuppa

 

[bazmak]

Ressurected again as per request and for anyone else interested