Band saws

[nautilus29]

What do you guys have in your shops, and do you have any input on your setup? Is your band saw taking up more space than it's worth, do you wish you had more options? I'm trying to decide what I want to put in my shop. I'm leaning towards a horizontal but I could be swayed.

 

[bikr7549]

I just got the Harbor Freight 4x6 band saw, and am very pleased with it so far. Right out of the box with no adjustments and the stock 14 TPI blade it has cut thru a bunch of steel (CRS 1.25" sq), some 3"x3"x .25" angle iron as well as some smaller aluminum flats. Cuts were square in both directions. It was not difficult to put together, and the frame that it sits on isn't all that bad, tho that may get replaced at some point with something sturdier. All in all it was a good buy, no regrets.
Bob

 

[nautilus29]

Thanks, I've been looking at that model every time I'm in HB. It's goot to know it's an option. The price is pretty good on it and there are a good amount of used ones around my area too.

 

[bikr7549]

PS, I have not tried out the vertical arrangement yet. I added another set of holes to the fixed jaw of the vise so that it could be moved closer to the blade. The moveable jaw was adjustable so it did not need that mod.

 

[nautilus29]

Honestly I didn't even notice it had the vertical option. I'll have to see if there is a youtube video on it setup like that.

 

[goldstar31]

As far as my recollection goes( a very long way) a 4 x 6 metal cutting bandsaw iis-- is------

A METAL CUTTING BANDSAW.

Yes, they usually need adjust ment so that the blade runs vertically. There is plenty of mileage- which says-- the same thing.
Get a good blade or two and not the cheap mstuff.

And get on with IT.

Norman

 

[Richard Hed]

I just got the Harbor Freight 4x6 band saw, and am very pleased with it so far. Right out of the box with no adjustments and the stock 14 TPI blade it has cut thru a bunch of steel (CRS 1.25" sq), some 3"x3"x .25" angle iron as well as some smaller aluminum flats. Cuts were square in both directions. It was not difficult to put together, and the frame that it sits on isn't all that bad, tho that may get replaced at some point with something sturdier. All in all it was a good buy, no regrets.
Bob

I've got the same one. It works well, however, I have already broken 3 blades. The blades are still good, but I have to find a way to re-weld them.

 

[clockworkcheval]

Over here we also mostly use a similar product to the Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw. A couple of remarks 1) the made in Taiwan variety is better than the made in China variety 2) The little wheels to move it around are worthless, better to mount the thing on a wheeled platform, so you can easily position it when you have to cut longer stock 3) you want to extend the yaws up to the sawband 4) My on/off button box broke away pretty soon, you may want to strengthen the connection right away 5) the standard 14 TPI sawblade is ok, but for thinner stock, especially when you use the vertical option, 18 TPI works better and for the up to 50 mm or 2 inch aluminium blocks I use for special tooling I always use 10 TPI as it lets the aluminium cuttings go more freely.
The machine is in daily use as it cuts much faster and more precise than I can by hand. For many components I use the vertical position to cut the outline of the part.

 

[goldstar31]

Might I repeat:-. Get a GOOD blade
Better still buy TWO.
It is possible to join blades by silver soldering or brazing scarfed joints blades as an alternative to welding and annealing.
Of course blades CAN be sharpened on a homemade Quorn tool and cutter as can hacksaw blades.
Ahem--- if that is your object in life.

Ahem!


Norman

 

[stanstocker]

I've had a Grizzly 4x6 that was made in Taiwan since around 1996. Other than replacing the guide bearings once and cleaning out and refilling the gearbox a few times it has required no repairs. As others have said, get good blades. Lenox and Starrett have both been good. The provided blade is likely carbon steel, OK for a while on aluminum but not great for harder material or very long lived. The stamped stand can be a bit unsteady is cutting long heavy material. The replacement made from a large plywood box on casters gives better mobility and storage below the saw, but does eat up more space that you would think. A medium sized auto drip pan is mounted under the saw on top of the base, this makes clean up much easier and contains most of the cuttings.

Cheers,
Stan

 

[ShopShoe]

I have the 4 x 6 bandsaw. Mine is just like most of them. It is badged as "Northern" and painted a maroonish brown color. I bought it because it was on the store's floor and Harbor Freight didn't have one in stock the day I went shopping. I have no ties to those two companies or any others.

My saw needed a lot of work to make it better. The most important thing was to make a base for it and get rid of the sheet-metal stand it came with. I also had to do a bunch of fiddling and some mods to get acceptable square cuts. Best improvement is high-quality blades.

It was worth the money for the original saw and the time and money to make it better. It is a timesaver and a muscle-saver all of the time. It takes up some valuable floor space, but I wouldn't want to be without it.

I don't like to use the vertical configuration very much. A future project is to build a better table to improve that function. It's still better to have that than not have that. I previously had a really old Craftsman horizontal metal bandsaw that did not have a vertical setup which I got rid of because it really did not earn its keep. In my dream shop, I would have both a horizontal saw and a vertical saw.

I am intrigued by the newer, smaller "tabletop" bandsaws on the market now. Perhaps someone with one of those could comment.

--ShopShoe

 

[stanstocker]

Sorry to post twice, but I just thought to mention that a PortaBand is an alternative. There is a guy on youtube named Jeremy Schmitt who uses a battery powered one to cut fairly interesting shapes in plate. I had no idea how versatile and capable to newer models had become, may have to put one on the buy list. Not right for everyone or everything, but small enough to put under a bench when not in use and easy to take outside if you need to. Some aftermarket vendors sell vertical conversions for at least the original AC powered Portaband, quite popular with some knife makers.

The you tube video is at:



The portaband use starts about 11:45 into the video.

 

[cd195]

What do you guys have in your shops, and do you have any input on your setup? Is your band saw taking up more space than it's worth, do you wish you had more options? I'm trying to decide what I want to put in my shop. I'm leaning towards a horizontal but I could be swayed.

I have a WEN table-top model that can cut through up to 5- inch steel. VERY pleased with it. The only cavil is that it doesn’t really open up completely to have a vertical mode. Other than that, it’s perfect for my small crowded shop.

 

[nautilus29]

Thanks everyone for the input, I was pretty worried about getting the harbor freight model but it seems like almost everyone here has had good experience with theirs. I don't mind having to make some improvements if needed so if I go with a horizontal I'll probably buy a HF one.

Sorry to post twice, but I just thought to mention that a PortaBand is an alternative. There is a guy on youtube named Jeremy Schmitt who uses a battery powered one to cut fairly interesting shapes in plate. I had no idea how versatile and capable to newer models had become, may have to put one on the buy list. Not right for everyone or everything, but small enough to put under a bench when not in use and easy to take outside if you need to. Some aftermarket vendors sell vertical conversions for at least the original AC powered Portaband, quite popular with some knife makers.

The you tube video is at:



The portaband use starts about 11:45 into the video.

I definitely was considering one of these, it does seem like a decent option, although the harbor freight one is cheaper haha.

 

[Chris W]

I picked up a Walker Turner 14" bandsaw about 20 years ago that has served me very well. It's late '40s vintage and built like a tank. One thing I really like about it is the motor has a two-speed gearbox mounted directly to it which gives me 8 speeds total. I've replaced the tires once and made a set of guide blocks and that's it. I think I paid about $200 for it. For horizontal cutting I have a similar vintage Racine power hacksaw that may not be fast but I can put it to work and go do something else while it chugs its way through anything.

 

[awake]

I have a Harbor Freight version of the 6 x 4, bought about 15 years ago, so don't know how they compare to the model sold today. It is a piece of crap that works astonishingly well - how's that for a mixed message?

The only modification I have made to mine is to make a slightly larger permanent table that can be used in horizontal mode but is large enough to be useful in vertical mode - thus I don't have to switch the tables back and forth - well worth doing. I keep thinking I want to take the time to do several other mods to extend the jaws closer to the blade, smooth out the way the screw works with the movable jaw, and replace the clamp hand wheel with something that doesn't come loose every so often. And yet, all these years later, I haven't had to do a thing to it, other than occasionally blowing out the accumulated swarf. It probably needs a thorough re-tuning at the least, but meanwhile it continues to cut quite straight, and is so convenient to use. If it quits tomorrow, I've definitely gotten my money's worth, and wouldn't hesitate to buy another of the same type.

 

[awake]

I've got the same one. It works well, however, I have already broken 3 blades. The blades are still good, but I have to find a way to re-weld them.

I TIG weld my blades. I'm no great shakes at it, but I can get usable results. This Old Tony on YouTube has a video on doing this that is helpful, and no doubt there are many others.

 

[Howder1951]

I have quite a collection of band saws, I started out with a home made upright, channel iron and 1/4" plate frame, 10" wheels all made from scratch. I then purchased 2 Harbor Freight 4x6 saws (one for my son in law. I then purchased a Bauer hand held corded from H/F. My next purchase was a hand held cordless from Canadian tire. Both of the hand held are used a lot for cutoffs in the lathe when the parting gets questionable. Deciding there was a need for a good wood saw, so I have a wooden framed Mattias Wendell saw being built right now. I have had a modicum of success with silver soldering blades, but still some bugs to work out of the grinding.

 

[jeep534]

OK i will give my 2 cents worth I have 4 band saws and for a first saw I would recommend a porta band i have a milwaukee brand I find that i use it quite frequently and its ability to cut things that will not easily clamp in the other saws is an asset also if i did not have the other saws i would conider it a bit pricey i think it would be useful..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA5srmUZDkg


Full disclosure I also have a Marvel 8 auto feed bandsaw , a walker turner with a lo and high gearbox and a doall machine (a laydown cutoff saw
I am continually amazed how well the porta band cuts

 

[chrsbrbnk]

An Enco 7x12 the one with the gearbox work awesome. also have a homemade 16 "vertical has a 6" square tube backbone and triangulated the blade support and wheels . came out super stiff . also made about 10 inches or better of blade length adjustability also have a harbor freight blade welder