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SAM in LA said:
Just when I think my learning curve is moving away from vertical, guys like you post a new lesson.

Thanks for sharing.

SAM

Shoot, Sam, if a guy's learning curve isn't headed upwards, then he's just building the same thing over and over. Or not building at all.
We all start out knowing the same thing. Nuttin'.

BTW, that depthing tool is nothing new. Clockmakers have been using them for centuries. They were a canny bunch!

Dean
 
Nice tool, Dean.

Chuck
 
Got distracted by the air spring and DRO additions to the mill. Now back to work. Really itching to get the 48 tooth gear done so I set up the RT and went after it. Turned out well. Teeth look good and the mesh with the 24 tooth looks about right. Even if it is not perfect it is close enough to work.

Here is a shot of the two gears. No photos of the cutting the 48 tooth since it is done the exact same way.

At this point I want to say that this is not all that hard. I am not that experienced and if I can do it then anyone on this forum can also. It just took some time to figure out:

1. The 60 degree cutter to make the hob.
2. How to do all the calculations to make a hob.
3. The actual making of a hob.

It is mostly a matter of being willing to spend the time to do it.

Now I need to get started on Dean's depthing tool so I can mount the gears.



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Good going, evil Rick Martin!
Someday, show us a vid of your hobbing. I hear you're good with videos..

;D

Dean

 
Dean; my videos are NOT evil, they are just accurate. :big:

Did not get the depthing tool completed. My ESC ran out. (Earned Shop Credits). However I did make some good progress. Recently I was at the metal store and I always browse the end cut section because they sell by the pound just above scrap price. Picked up several .25" x 1" pieces of brass 6" long. Didn't know what I was going to do with them but got them anyway. Turned out to be perfect for this project. Made a few changes to suit the jobs I am planning. Made a knurled nut rather than use a hex nut. Still need to drill and tap for the threaded rod. But that should be easy. Need to take the pins down about a thou to get the fit I want and then make the bushings for the two gears I am working on.

Thanks Dean for the pictures of this tool.




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Vette;

You don't even have to put that threaded rod in for this one time thing. It's just so you can make fine adjustment to the floating gear as you move it in checking for lash, but you could fiddle that by moving the one floating gear by hand, then snug it when it feels right.
You'll probably do well if you just keep the teeth of one gear out of the gullets of the other, so they don't bump. You could put a strip of typing paper between the two gears too, then get the lash very close.

Dean
 

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