Another Edwards 5 Radial

[Rdean33422]

Made up the mounting brackets for the gas tank. After I had it installed I wondered if it is big enough. Will just have to see how it works out and not a big job if I need to make a bigger one.


Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[ozzie46]

Thanks I just wondered as I have used JB Weld on mine. Holds up well too although probably takes longer to set up than your epoxy.
Ron

 

[Steamchick]

I thought JB weld was epoxy?
Not readily available in the UK so I have never used it...
K2

 

[ozzie46]

It is but it is metal filled not just clear epoxy and is tolerant of moderate heat. Navy vet told me they repaired a crack on their ship engines exhaust manifold and it last long after they returned to port.
Ron

 

[Rdean33422]

My parts came in so on to the intake runners.

I thought I had ordered Tygon gas line for the runners but that isn't what I got. (my mistake)
This tubing won't hold up for very long but maybe long enough to see if the engine will run.



I have reordered the Tygon line and some proper clamps for future use.


And I added a throttle.



Test run is coming up soon.

Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[Rdean33422]

Video of the first run of my radial engine.

The electric motor is used to spin the crank shaft for starting before the prop is installed.
The engine is actually running on 4 cylinders in the video as one cylinder has a exhaust valve problem that needs to be sorted out.



Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[minh-thanh]

Nice engine
Congratulations !

 

[ddmckee54]

Were you able to determine from this run if the fuel tank you built will be big enough?
Nice engine.
Nice tank.
Nice run - even if it was only running on 4 out of 5.

If it's a DC motor that you use for starting, could you use the motor as a generator to put a load on the engine when you get it running properly?

Don

 

[petertha]

Congrats, love the sound.

 

[Rdean33422]

Don I was too busy with the engine to notice but I think it may be about right.

I want to thank everyone who commented and left likes on this build. It does make a difference.

The engine is firing on all 5 cylinders now just some trash in the valves of head number 3. I think I may have a vacuum leak in one or several of the intake runners so the Tygon tubing will be here tomorrow and I will replace all of the runners.
I still need to make the prop peg/key to secure the prop and spinner to the crank. I don't want it to unscrew when by starting it via the spinner.

Still some work to do and then a nice longer video with the prop.

Thanks for looking

Ray

 

[Steamchick]

Just need a plane to bolt it onto....

LOVE IT!
K2

 

[Rdean33422]

I have been concerned for some time that when I installed the prop and tried to start the engine that the prop would unscrew itself from the crankshaft. I came up with this solution to drill a blind hole in the magnet ring that matches the prop and the spinner and insert a steel pin to lock all three together. The magnet ring is keyed to the shaft so the torque on the spinner is transferred directly to the crank shaft via the pin.


The rest of the parts.


My good friend Chris offered to loan me his flexible plastic starting cup to spin the prop over. I made a housing for the cup that would also fit in my battery drill.






This is the moment I have been working for.



I will be doing some more tuning on the engine in the coming days but I proclaim this build
COMPLETE

Thanks again to everyone
Ray

 

[petertha]

I'm not quite understanding what the pin through the prop & washer plate will do if the starter unscrews the right hand thread nut off. I guess the prop wont wont free spin but could it windmill windmill forward unrestrained? Can you elaborate? I think I have the similar issue on my O5 radial. The drive washer has a tapered split cone. The prop bolts tap into that.

Edwards

O5

 

[minh-thanh]

@Rdean33422
Again , Congratulations !
Thanks for sharing.
Which engine will be next !?

 

[Rdean33422]

On my engine the magnet ring is keyed to the crankshaft and the steel pin drives the prop and extends into the spinner. The screw that holds the spinner on will not see any loosening force when starting because it is transfered to the crankshaft via the steel pin to the magnet ring. The threads that are on the end of the crankshaft are not used for anything and may be causing some confusion. I originally thought the threads would be used to hold everything together but then when the stack up of parts proved them useless I center taped the crankshaft for the spinner.
I hope I have explained it clearly.
None of this will apply to your engine with the taper lock.
I can see where there may be some concern in your situation.


Ray

 

[Rdean33422]

Minh Thanh I haven't even thought about it yet.
This was such a big project for me I think I will rest some first.

Thank you for the kind words

Ray

 

[ozzie46]

I have been concerned for some time that when I installed the prop and tried to start the engine that the prop would unscrew itself from the crankshaft. I came up with this solution to drill a blind hole in the magnet ring that matches the prop and the spinner and insert a steel pin to lock all three together. The magnet ring is keyed to the shaft so the torque on the spinner is transferred directly to the crank shaft via the pin.
View attachment 147800

The rest of the parts.
View attachment 147801

My good friend Chris offered to loan me his flexible plastic starting cup to spin the prop over. I made a housing for the cup that would also fit in my battery drill.
View attachment 147802

View attachment 147803



This is the moment I have been working for.



I will be doing some more tuning on the engine in the coming days but I proclaim this build
COMPLETE

Thanks again to everyone
Ray

Well done sir!!!

Ron

 

[propclock]

I realize this is a very late reply. First of all I really enjoyed all your
modifications to make it your way. I was wondering where did you get the cam follower ball bearings ? beautiful and original engine.

 

[Rdean33422]

Thank you propclock
The bearings are 692zz and are available on E-Bay from several sellers.

Ray

 

[bobden72]

I did not plan on building this engine as it is designed for an RC airplane and I never got into that hobby. It not something you can just set on the counter and start it up for a while to watch it run like I do with my other engines. It is recommended to use at least a 20" propeller and produces some serious horse power.
I ran across a set of plans for an Edwards 5 radial engine and was just looking through the pages when the master rod drawing caught my eye. It looked like an interesting part and I thought I will make just the rod for a conversation piece that's all. Well it turned out very nice almost excellent but it didn't demonstrate how the other rods were connected and the path that they followed.
The other four rods were all identical and a rather easy build so I decided to make them but now I had to make the link pins to hold the rods on. Well the link pins are held in position by the link pin retainer plate that captures the pins and hold everything together. Not exactly there is a C clip that holds the retainer plate in place but that clips on to the crank pin that is pressed into the crank shaft arm and there is a needle bearing in the master rod to match the crank pin. I might as well make the crankshaft too so I can attach the crank pin to something and really demonstrate how a radial engine works.

So now you see how all this got started and just keeps going.
View attachment 145693

I have now decided to try my hand at building this complex model engine and I will give it my best shot.
View attachment 145694

The crank shaft also has a counter weight that bolts onto the crank throw.
View attachment 145695

I will be following the plans for the most part but I will be using the materials I have on hand as much as possible.

Thanks for looking
Ray

Ray if I were you I would fit some bronze bushes in the small ends to save disappointment . I built mine without as in the plans, after a few hours running they started to wear and needed doing with bushes.