An Unusual Steam Engine from Live steam magazine Oct 1977

[va4ngo]

Missed this photo so it is out of sequence

Here the v blocks are rotated 90 degrees and parallels placed under the v-block to clear the sliding clamp ( I used a pair of lathe tool bits as parallels)

 

[Bill Mc]

Hi Phil - It's so nice to see older metal working tools turning out such fine work. - Billmc

 

[va4ngo]

Thanks Bill, Though I dont enjoy filing, it is good to see end result. The old lathe and drill press are surprisingly accurate when you get to know them. I find the biggest aid to producing better work is to always have a sharp tool with correct clearances, a feat which is sometimes difficult when you need glasses.

Cheers
Phil

 

[va4ngo]

Today I purchased some 1/4" silver steel for using on future projects and for making a 1/4" reamer. For reference a 1 metre length of water hardenable silver steel cost $15.00.

First I made the reamer my methods I read about in "The Amateurs lathe"

Method

Cut a length of 1/4 " drill rod to 75mm length and square both ends
put a small chamfer on one end say 1mm max
Then file the rod, in my case for approximately 12mm diagonally along its length. I had a very thin part to ream (3mm) . the amount of diagonal cut can be varied I found this worked very well. The book asks for this to be hardened, however it worked fin as is without hardening. I then proceeded to clean up the flat diagonal edge on the oilstone until "sharp" i.e flat.

The reamer is then used just like other hand reamers, Rotate in one direction only for inserting exiting and a perfectly reamed hole emerged.
The photos show the connecting rods clamped to the 1-2-3 block ready for reaming

I carried out the reaming in the drill press rotating the chuck by hand by moving the belt in one direction until right through and then raising the Chuck whilst still turning the belt in the same direction (you need three hands for this)

The drill rod is shown with a neat sliding fit in the con rod

I recommend this as an easy method of reaming an accurate hole as the rod could be turned to any size and then made in to a diagonally cut reamer

 

[Deanofid]

These kind of reamers work quite well, even in steel if you harden and temper them. Your project is coming along nicely!
After seeing a number of the parts you've made, I realize I have plans for this one. Interesting design, for sure.

$15 for a 1/4" length of drill rod/silver steel sounds like a lot! ($2 for a 3 ft length of W-1 here. You fellers need an Enco!)

Keep 'er up!

Dean

 

[1Kenny]

Very nice, Phil. I am enjoying watching you build this.

Kenny

 

[va4ngo]

Thanks Kenny and Dean,

I wasn't sure what I should be paying for silver steel, I had only seen it advertised on some US website for US$3.50 for a 1 foot length so I figured we would need to be paying twice as much. I paid AU dollars.

I would like to be able to easily identify Silver steel from Bright Mild steel
Any ideas any one

Phil

 

[Deanofid]

Well, silver steel usually holds it's dimension very true over the length of it. Mill steel will often vary a few thou from end to end.
You can heat a short end of one of each piece to bright orange and quench them. The silver steel won't take a mark from a file. The mild steel you will still be able to file it as normal.

There are spark tests for these too, but I don't interpret those well.

If you buy W1 or O1 from a metal supplier here, it almost always comes in 3 ft lengths.

Dean

 

[va4ngo]

Thanks Dean

I like both ideas especially the spark idea as it means you can get an immediate result just by touching a grinder

Cheers
Phil

 

[georgeseal]

Phil,

I only buy one grade of tool steel ( for me it is O-1 ) so if its tool steel I know what it is

When any metal that is purchased comes into the shop it is marked with MY identification ( different places use different colors for the same thing. It don't take long before this gets mixed up and you don't know what you got).

I use Yellow = tool steel

Green = 1018 (mild Steel)

Red = Stainless


Use what ever colors you choose but do write them down so that you know

All other metal that comes into the shop is junk (unknown) and is treated like it (If I use a piece that is junk and it machines well and makes the part I need then so be it

 

[va4ngo]

Thanks George, I'll adopt the colour coding.


Regards
Phil

 

[va4ngo]

I have an apology to Zee as he had asked me for photos and of course I don't have any photos as the work is in progress. It just occurred to me that I could have taken a photo of the original photo in magazine Oct Live steam 1977 and here they are.
I had already made the piston some 15 years ago and will need to tackle the cylinder soon. This will be somewhat of a challenge for me as it requires some silver solder work which will need some sub assemblies welded together. These sub assemblies are finished and have required a lot of time for me to get to that stage. It was the silver solder excercise 15 years ago that caused me to abandon engine modelling. Maybe I should go for a good adhesive as I do not intend to run these on steam?
Note also the neat looking linkages for valve mechanism. I love things that go up and down and have lots of animation. This engine will have quite a bit of that.


In the next stage of the build process I will be making the pair of crankshaft bearings. As can be seen in the photo, the crankshaft bearings are located at bottom of conrod.These are made from rectangular stock 1 1/4" long by 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick. I don't have any brass that size so I will be making them from 1 3/8" Diameter round brass rod then cutting and filing to shape. refer Mr Pythagoras.

 

[cobra428]

Melbourne_Phil,
Nice work, Marv is going to really like you with all that Pythagorean stuff.

Just kidding Marv!

Tony

 

[zeeprogrammer]

I have to admit that I don't know enough to say if it's unusual or not...but it is interesting.

Thanks for the pics...it helps me know what you're building. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your progress.

 

[va4ngo]

Take a piece of 1 3/8" round brasss rod, centre drill and and tiurn to correct diameter, Locate shoulders as we are making a pair of these, then drill just under 1/4" diam. prior to reaming (15/64"). Here I used the Home made reamer again , wonderful simple tool.
The crankshaft is then ready to test for proper alignment.

 

[va4ngo]

The pair of crankshaft bearings were then put together on shaft, looks like we are making a Loco here, and marked up on the v-block as per previous instructions for 90 degree marking out

Then transferred to 1-2-3 block, to be drilled and then pinned together, for cutting and filing to shape

 

[va4ngo]

Here the bearings are almost finished (will wait to see how everything looks before final finishing)

Its always rewarding to see how far you have progressed.


Remember I have to get back to those broken 2mm taps before I can assemble the valve block

If you don't know what I am referring to, you will need to read another post under "Mistakes, Blunders and Boo Boos" titled " New use for an old vibrator"

and the other post under "Questions and answers" titled "Removing a broken tap"

Happy reading

Phil

 

[4wheels]

As you said Phil it will be very 'animated' when running. Can't wait to see the video. I see what you mean by your subject title 'unusual steam engine - it sure is. Keep up the good work.
Cheers,

 

[va4ngo]

Thanks for your comment Brian

The Title "Unususual Steam Engine" was the Title adopted by "Live Steam Magazine". There is no other name for the engine

Cheers
Phil

 

[arnoldb]

You're making good progress on this one Phil Thm:

I'm itching to see it running!

Regards, Arnold