Advice re belt sander/linisher

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jmshep

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I am looking for a reasonably priced bench mounted belt sander. The belt/disc sanders that can be used with the belt section horizontal or vertical look ok for what I want and are the right sort of price but nearly all of the descriptions state that they are suitable for woodworking, plastics or non ferrous metals.

Are there any probems using them on steel or do I need to look at a 'proper' linisher designed for use on steel?

(an example of the sort of thing I am looking at is here: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-awebds46-mkii-belt-and-disc-sander-prod725061/)

Any help and experiences appreciated

John S
 
John, it should work fine for both assuming a quality belt of appropriate grit for the job at hand. Just be aware that you can sometimes get sparks from ferrous metals just as on a pedestal grinder so take the normal precautions for combustibles nearby.

Bill
 
I've got a Record BDS 250:

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/index.php?section=product&seq=272&cat=35&sef=10%22%22X6%22%22%20BELT%20%26%20DISC%20SANDER

It's the larger 6" wide belt and 10" disc version. I've fitted a decent table for using the belt and also an auxiliary platen for 50mm wide belts. I do nearly all my tool sharpening on it, including wood turning lathe tools. One of the best bits of kit I've bought but you MUST clean out all wood dust before using steel on it or it could catch fire when the sparks hit the wood dust!

Vic.
 
I've got one of the 4 x 36 ones from Harbor Freight and I'm quite pleased with it. I use it for both woodworking and (to a lesser extent) on metal - does a fine job... I just keep the belts used for metal separated from those used for wood, to keep from contaminating wood with oil and/or metal dust.
 
This is what has made all the difference to using mine:

_IGP2936.jpg


The steel table bolted on the side, as bought it just has a thin plate which is next to useless.

Vic.

 
Thanks for the replies - just got to decide which make model now.
 
like others have said the material and quality of the belt makes a big difference of capability and performance.
the proverbial rubber road comparison if you will.
Tin
 
Tin Falcon said:
like others have said the material and quality of the belt makes a big difference of capability and performance.
the proverbial rubber road comparison if you will.
Tin

Too true. Axminster in the UK supply good belts that are butt joined, cheaper scarfed joints "jump" each time they come round and can make things difficult.

As for which one, get the largest belt/disc size you can afford/have space for and try and get one with a Cast Iron or Steel table if you can as they are more solid and less noisy to use than those with alloy tables.

Vic.
 
I have a 4" belt/disc sander, but have been pondering buying or building a 1" belt sander with a variable speed motor for use with the many small parts we make for our small projects.
What do you think?
How do you finish out/put the "bling" on your small parts?
Right now I spend a lot of time hand filing/sanding these parts to get a satisfactory finish----hard on finger tips.
John
 
I was told the mixing of aluminium dust and iron dust can cause a explosive mix. Has any one had or know of even a little bang from sanding both these metals on a sander?
Dave Bick
 
I was told the mixing of aluminium dust and iron dust can cause a explosive mix. Has any one had or know of even a little bang from sanding both these metals on a sander?
Dave Bick
Iron oxode power mixed with aluminum powder in the correct proportions is thermite
Fe2O3 + 2Al → 2Fe + Al2O3 + Heat
It is not an explosive but when ignited will melt though things like engine blocks.
it basically turns to molten iron and slag.

I used to work in a shop that routinely used the same sander for various metals steel aluminum and titanium. the metal powder would get an inch deep before anyone would clean it out, never a fire.
Will not say it cannot happen but with reasonable housekeeping do not see it it as a real threat. I do not recommend letting the powder build up on the sander.
Tin
 
Usually to start a thermite reaction you need an extremely hot trigger, that's why burning a piece of magnesium ribbon is most often used for this. A couple of small sparks from a sander are very unlikely to be carrying enough energy to start this reaction. On top of that, the iron will not be very oxidised and the ratio of iron oxide to aluminium will almost certainly not be very close to ideal and the powders won't be at all mixed. I wouldn't consider the risk to be at all significant.
Anyone got any sources of fine grit good quality 4" wide belts for these machines? I have a Warco one but the belt is poorly joined and the grit very coarse.
 
Cheers Vic I just banged in an order, can't find anyone else selling 180 grit either.
 
can't find anyone else selling 180 grit either.
I have found it is best to err on the course side it wears down to what you want.
IIRC I use 60 or 120 for course /fine
Tin
 
I get given used 60 grit belts from time to time and they're still very sharp. I tend to buy 100 grit for use as a "fine" belt!

Vic.
 
Good to know.
Figured the coarse disc on the machine will stay and I will change the belt over to fine. Maybe too fine :D
 
I have a coarse belt on mine and a fine disk but gueass it is a matter of preference.
Tin
 
My disc runs true, my belt has a huge fat joint that basically renders it unuseable on anything but wood. It acts more like a hammer than a sander. I need to lose that belt whatever happens, that is why I am hoping the belts from Axminster are better. Once it arrives I will test it and post the result.
 
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