A multi-cylinder crankshaft machining tutorial

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EXCELLENT :bow: :bow:

George, you should consider submitting your this tutorial (and others) as articles for HSM, MSW or Model Engine Builder. There's a LOT of folks interested in these techniques !!

Mike
 
What can I say? :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Ian
 
Hi George,

I found this topic and it is very good... but the pictures can not be visualized...

Do you have these pictures yet ?

Thank you,

Alexandre Machado
 
Hi Alexandre,
The pictures come up fine for me. There must be a problem on your end.
George
 
Very interesting, what sort of speed would be used for this operation.

Thanks
 
Thanks for the very clear tutorial George!

It stored ans for sure will be usefull in future.

Thanks for sharing :bow:

Regards Jeroen
 
Now it's back to the lathe to turn the first throw journal. I use high speed tooling on my cranks. That's not to say that carbide can't be used, I just like high speed for this type of work. I can put a much sharper edge on it and hone it if it gets a little dull. The tool I use for the throws is like and extended cutoff tool made long enough to get to the bottom of my cut. It has clearance on both sides so I don't scuff the sides of the throws. The width is already finished on the mill. I only need to make it round and to size. When you start out the cut will be intermittent but not as bad as trying to cut all of the stock out on the lathe. The nose shape is what's refered to as 'bifurcated'. It has a notch gound into it so that you're only cutting with the 2 small outboard edges. The total width of the nose is a little less than 1/2 the width of the throw. This allows you to move the tool back and forth to clean up the whole journal. There is also a small radius on the corner. This gives the crank strength at the junction point. When first setting up the tool mount your dial indicator somewhere and indicate across the 2 points on the tool. This is very important to get a parallel cut on the journal.
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Great Tool your the 2nd machinist ive seen in ~ 40 years to use these 'bifurcated'. tool
 
Not nearly as bad with stressproof or 12L14 steel. A cold rolled steel would look like a banana after!
 
I generally use 1144 Stressproof steel. It only comes in round stock so if I need a flat plane crankshaft I will mill the round down to the thickness I need. It takes a little time but working with this steel is worth not having the hassle of warping.
gbritnell
 
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Hi Gbritnell,

DIY Crankshaft
turning now now long a black art.
Thanks.
Will find time to make a Sliding Valve Steam Engine with non-over-hung crankshaft. My previous attempts were failures.
 

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