9X20 Oil Ports

[CrewCab]

Or at least I think they are called "Oil Ports" ???

Anyway, ....... where you insert the oil, in this case the two for the head bearings, all the ports seem to be a small brass bush with a spring loaded bearing in the centre. After oiling the lathe this weekend I noticed that the little ball bearings to both the headstock bearings have disappeared

All the others seem fine, just seems odd .............. I assume these are just pressed in and can be drilled out and new ones fitted, but ...... is it possible and/ or a good idea to fit the automatic oilers like you see on the old Myford's etc

Still scratching mi' head to figure out what I did wrong ........ but not a major problem ......... I hope.

Any suggestions welcome.

Dave

 

[tmuir]

If you come up with any good ideas let me know as that has happened to one of mine and at the moment it just has a bit of insulation tape over it to stop any swarf falling in there.

 

[Circlip]

Sounds like a manufacturers cost reduction exercise. "Spring roaded oirers wivout va springs"! Regards Ian. :big:

 

[Bogstandard]

I think I bought replacement ones from my local engineering suppliers, but they do come in various sizes.

No need to drill them out, a small chisel tapped under the flange of the oiler will usually lift them out, they are not a machined part, but a pressed cup, so collapse very easily.

John

 

[Mcgyver]

I've never understood those oilers, there must be special oil gun for using them properly - unless the tip of the oiler is the right shape the ball bottoms out before the oiler seals on the rim- but the main reason i dislike them is its really hard to keep crude/dirt/swarf out when you go to use them. Cups avoid this, its easy to thoroughly brush off the outside before opening but they don't have the advantage of a flush mount.

I'd be inclined to replace the ball oilers with cups. They are a light press fit and can usually be pulled out with pliers or vise grips.

The next level up is a regulated drip oilers, which is what i think is what you're thinking with the myford, although i haven't owned one. The have a needle valve that you can set that controls a drip rate and also a way to turn it on/off. So long as you remember to turn them on this is ideal as there is a constant clean supply of oil the the bearings (not sure what lathe we're talking but I take it its a plain bearing spindle).

 

[zeusrekning]

I may be wrong, but if you are talking about what I think you are, aren't those vent plugs. I was told they were to keep a vacuum from being created without letting dirt in? I have always used a small oil can and try to force oil in though.
Tim

 

[Mcgyver]

Tim, interesting, hadn't heard or thought of that but i can see how it would work.....I've only encountered them where it was to deliver oil, but who knows? Sounds like you're thinking of a check valve....when i said ball oilers I was thinking of these...

http://www.authenticlightingandhardware.com/IMAGE OILERS/OILERS PIC ch.jpg

 

[Bogstandard]

I personally like the cups or standard nipples, but on my lathe they are used where they slide under the crosslide, so they are the only ones that can be used to provide lubrication to the crosslide leadscrew in two different places. They are also installed in places that have an incline, where a normal cup would be of no use.
I do have the correct shaped tip to my oil gun, and don't have any trouble with them.

John

 

[alan2525]

I like those large glass drip oil resevoirs, seen some fited to the headstock bearings on Myfords, remind me of the oilers they used to fit on large beam engines, always nice to see there's some oil in 'em too.

 

[zeusrekning]

Tim, interesting, hadn't heard or thought of that but i can see how it would work.....I've only encountered them where it was to deliver oil, but who knows? Sounds like you're thinking of a check valve....when i said ball oilers I was thinking of these...

http://www.authenticlightingandhardware.com/IMAGE OILERS/OILERS PIC ch.jpg

Yeah, these are what I was referring to. We had these on the cross slide and saddle of one of our lathes. That is when I was told it was like a check valve. When I was screwing off one day I would puddle oil on top of it while moving the cross slide or saddle and the oil would suck in. The link was cool , but don't you think they would tell you how to put the oil in.
Tim

 

[CrewCab]

Thanks for all the replies and the helpful info guys ;D

It appears it isn't a major problem then as I can keep dribbling oil in the holes and just cover them to make sure no debris gets in.

The oilers I was thinking of as a possible replacement are this type ..........

Throwback to my early years and what I was used to I suppose :

Seen some on "That auction site" going for about £25 +p&p, RGD sell them for £19 a pair and ARC are about £7.95 each I believe, ....... pays to check before bidding on ebalg

Having taken the front cover plate off the lathe tonight, at the chuck end the oilway is in the middle of the casting so nothing is visible, at the drive belt end the oiler leads into a 1/2 oilway (is the best way I can think to describe it) .......... anyway it's a groove (1/2 a hole) leading to a hole in the casting over the rear bearing so oil should get there, but it seems it is, partially full of what looks like expanding foam .......... is this some of the normal crap that's used to protect the lathes in their overseas travels? ............ anyway to me it seems best I remove it so that's the plan for later in the week ................ unless I'm advised not to that is

To be fair if I can find replacement's for the flush ball / spring type they should be fine ........ just got to find some somewhere ???

Edited to add ....... In answer to an earlier question ........ as far as I am aware the headstock bearings are Taper Roller ......... as quoted on the Chester web site Here

Dave

 

[Philjoe5]

Dave,
I have those oil ports all over my 9x20 and 10x22 lathes. Every once in a while, the ball disappears. I've found that on my lathes, the brass bushing that holds the ball is easily tapped 10-24. Then I just put a socket head cap screw in there to keep debris out. When I did the first one almost a year ago I was concerned that the shavings from tapping would muck up the works, but I backed out frequently and cleaned the tap each time. So far no problems.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[rake60]

I have a cheap little metal trigger oil can from WalMart.

The spout tip of that oiler fits the ball oil ports perfectly, except for one...
It goes too far into that one and sticks tight. It's a bear to get back out.
Naturally I've never thought to mark that oiler to be more careful with it.
Maybe next time I stick the oil can in it I'll do that.

Every time I do get the spout stuck I expect to pull the pull the bushing out.
So far I've been lucky.

Rick

 

[Mcgyver]

Crew, those would be a good project, similar to this one i made for a yet incomplete hit&miss engine...exact same operation as the ones you posted - the handle at top opens and shuts a needle valve inside and the knurled section controls the height of needle when open..there's also a check valve in the bottom, then again for that money hardly seems worth making

 

[CrewCab]

Speaking of Oils Cans : .............. Rick I've got a few of those "cheapy's", trouble is they all leak like cullender's

A while back I came across a couple of these

which are pretty handy, nice fine brass spout which seals with a twist .......... and no leaks.

Dave