giovanni said:
Will steel pipe have a crevice corrosion problem?
Giovanni,
To answer your question, no not as you refer to, but with all the hundreds of alloys floating about these days it's become important (IMHO), especially when talking boilers, to be specific about material. MILD steel, hot-rolled seamless tubing, of the type used for boilers (one such in the USA is SA-106/B) does not have problems other than rust and electrolytic corrosion both of which are manageable with proper boiler care and chemicals. I suspect the problem you refer to is "stress corrosion cracking" which occurs in
stainless steels and this is an electrolytic reaction due to the presence of chloride ions in water. Stainless steels are also subject to weld area cracking which IIRC can be minimized by using specific weld alloys in a specific SS alloy after which the welded assemblies are normalized. This process is generally outside the capabilities and pocketbooks of the average live steamer. Stress corrosion cracking is pervasive and silent, you cannot see it happening; it is akin to dezincification in brass which also can't be seen. This is the main reason why, as Pat refers to above, SS it is a no-no in some countries. There are a few stainless model boilers operating in the US and I believe a few in the Toronto area. One of the US boilers is quite large and was fully engineered and built by Severn-Lamb Ltd in the UK, and so far only one has reported SCC problems but the science predicts otherwise and we err on the side of safety.
I think that a steel shell with copper bulkheads would be much less expensive than a copper shell but can the steel pipe be silver soldered to copper bulkheads without any downsides?
It would be cheaper, and I don't know of such a mixture of metals specifically, but I wouldn't be at all surprised to learn that it had been done successfully. The question I would have would be, when all-steel boilers with rolled-in or silver soldered in copper flues is probably the most widely used material combination for larger model boilers, why bother with copper heads?
Any suggestions on how to roll the copper sheet?
It rolls best when it has been annealed, and rolling from flat will probably call for several anneaings during the process. The length of the copper sheet in the flat will need to be computed from the barrel circumference along the
neutral axis of the plate you are using. IIRC the nuetral axis of copper is approx 3/4 of the thickness of the sheet, towards the outside of the roll. You'll need to check my memory on this one but be advised, the neutral axis does not lie in the center of copper sheet.
As to the finger joints, ideally these should be
dovetailed joints rather than finger joints so as to put the metal surrounding the joints into compression rather than relying solely on the shear strength of the solder, which admittedly is great, to hold the joint together. I have done it both ways with no problems although the dovetail joint is far more difficult to do and maintain a very small joint clearance and fit. I try whenever possible to use seamless copper tube, but a while back I decided to go with a butt & strap joint on rolled barrels because that is easier to do, less costly when I'm doing work for others, and is equal to finger joints in strength although it too relies primarily on the shear strength of the solder.