3000 rpm on a Myford lathe

[firebird]

Hi

The bearings are adjusted by tightening a screwed ring that presses onto a thrust washer.

Screw cutting a steel ring



Drill and tap 4mm then machine a pocket for the cap head screw



Cut through with a slitting saw



Then drill through one side clearance for a 4 mm screw leaving threads in the other side.

When the bearings are adjusted the screwed ring can be locked in place by tightening the clamp screw



The screwed ring is drilled and tapped 4mm.



The 30 tooth gear is drilled and countersunk 4mm



The gear is fixed to the screwed ring with 3 countersunk cap head screws with some loctite on the threads.

The thrust washer is made of brass which is drilled to have a steel pin pressed in.



The R8 adapter very conveniently has a slot cut in it. The thrust washer pin locates in the slot.





Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

To stop swarf etc getting into the bearings I made 2 seals. The best way I can describe it is I made two big 6mm thick aluminium washers.



I had to grind up a boring bar type tool to cut a groove into the inner diameter



Cutting a groove



Into which is fitted an O ring



Two 5mm holes drilled and countersunk on the same pcd as the bearing central spacer



A 6mm slot cut into the spacer



The front seal fitted. The pressed on collar runs in the seal. The rear seal runs on the brass thrust washer. The reason for the slot in the spacer is so that a bar can be dropped through into the slot in the mandril to hold it for tool changing etc.



In this shot you can also see the screwed bearing adjuster ring with the 30 tooth gear fitted



Cheers

Rich

 

[tel]

Brilliant stuff Rich - a real education

 

[MachineTom]

Took a time to respond to your question of the lube I use when turning high RPM's. It's called BoeLube comes in a stick form within a plastic push out tube, when the work is up to speed, just touch the stick to the work, friction melts it and then it instantly hardens, very little smoke when cutting, since it melts duriing application, and again when cutting, a face shield is a good idea. A little bit goes a long way.

 

[firebird]

Hi Tom

Thanks, I'll try and get some.

Cheers

Rich

 

[lordedmond]

i know you have finished this project

but is there a reason you did not bore the spindle nose to take a er32 collett and thread the nose for the closing nut or have I misread your pic,s ?


Stuart

 

[firebird]

Hi Stuart

I designed it to use all my existing Myford kit, 2MT, collets etc, which seemed the logical thing to do. I do however have a ER32 collet adapter threaded to suit the myford spindle which I was going to show later.

Here's a few more pics.

Packing the bearings with grease



This shot shows the rear seal in place and the bearings being adjusted and locked with the clamp





This where the clamps fit into the lathe bed.



Cheers

Rich

 

[lordedmond]

Ok

thanks for the reply


Stuart

 

[firebird]

Hi

The cover is a simple flip over lid made from aluminium.



Drill and tap the sides to take a couple of short 5mm cap head bolts.



The holes in the lid have to be elongated to allow it to flip over





Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

I planned on a 9 fold increase in speed so 4 gears would be needed. 2 x 30 tooth and 2 x 90 tooth. As luck would have it a pair of 30 tooth gears came my way FOC which saved me the job of cutting them but would have been the same method as the 2 x 90 tooth gears. The method is shown in detail in a topic here on HMEM. If you follow this link you will see how it developed.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=12374.0

The 2 gears were cut as one by mounting 2 pieces of 10mm thick aluminium plate on a mandril and turning to size.



Setting the cutter height to the rotary table centre line.



The first tooth cut, only another 89 to go



The finished gears



I made a mandril to hold one of the 90 tooth gears (the drive gear) in a collet in the lathe spindle



One of the 30 tooth gears is fixed to a 90 tooth gear with a spacer between the two





Cheers

Rich

 

[arnoldb]

Great going Rich - Thanks for sharing! :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold

 

[firebird]

Hi

This has nothing to do with this project but I thought I would show it anyway. I need some 20 tooth gears for another experimental project. I decided to cut the teeth onto a solid bar then part off 10mm wide bits. I have machined the teeth about 60mm long which should give me 4 gears @ 10mm each allowing for the parting tool.

Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

One thing I wanted to achieve with this project was to make it very quick and easy to fit and remove. I have found that any bit of kit that is difficult or time consuming to use rarely gets used. I have tried to design this so I can fit it to the lathe in under 3 minutes. With that in mind I designed the counter shaft on a swinging arm, fitting and removing the belts can be done in seconds.

The swinging arm is made from aluminium. A bar is turned and bored to accept a pair of bearings witha 12mm bore.

It is then cross drilled 6mm and then drilled one side only clearance for the 6mm cap head bolts so that they will drop through.

A flat is then machined.

!/2 inch aluminium plate drilled and tapped 6mm

The plate has the other end machined away and cross drilled

This is how the 2 pieces bolt together. This shot was taken before the end was machined away

A steel bracket is made and fixed to the side of the headstock

A 6mm steel pin completes the swinging arm. A 12mm steel shaft has the two fixed gears pinned to one end. Spacers were made up to get the correct belt alignment

Its own weight is enough to tension the belt. A 6mm screw is all that's needed to hold it in place.

Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

This is the screw that maintains the belt tension.

This shot shows the 2 pulleys on the headstock are in alignment

With the headstock sitting on the lathe bed its a simple job to slide it back and forth to align the drive belt

Then lock it in place. I can achieve all this in less than 3 minutes

Checking the spindle for run out with a piece of 1/4 silver steel in a collet. Not bad only .001

That's pretty much where I am to date. I still have to make the belt guards and tidy up a few bits, I'll post more when I have done.

Cheers

Rich

 

[crab]

Thanks for posting this Rich,you have given me a lot of good ideas Thm:.
Crab

 

[firebird]

hi

Glad you like it Mr Crab.

This has been a fairly brief look at what has taken me about 9 months on and off. If anyone needs more details on a particular part I'll do my best to oblige.

Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

Not directly linked to this project but here's a few more pics of the gear cutting.

Parting off some 20T gears

Making some flanges from 1mm aluminium

4 flanges trapped between the 2 gears on a mandrel and machined to size

Held onto the gear with 4 pop rivets

Here's some 36T gears being machined.

6 pop rivets on this size gear

Cheers

Rich

 

[firebird]

Hi

Just a quick update here. I have almost finished the belt guard now, fabricated from a strip of 1.5mm stainless steel with aluminium sides.

Cheers

Rich

 

[Rctintin]

Hi guys, I new to this forum, having followed a link from another forum.

For some reason, I cannot see any of the pictures relating to this thread. Is this the same for everyone?

I am converting my lathe to CNC, and have been looking for a way to safely increase the HS of my Myford ML7, and all I've seen of this project is the YouTube video of it running.

Does anyone else know if these pics are shared on any other forums please?

Cheers all

 

[Blogwitch]

This happens a fair amount on sites, where people use something like photobucket to store their pictures and then something goes wrong with the storage site.
I myself lost over 2,000 uploaded pictures in just that way and all my posts ended up with this sort of display.

I did manage to get a lot of my pictures back up and running, but it is a long process where you have to put in all new links into the posts.

Your best bet would be try to contact Firebird (Rich) through a PM or email and get him to send you the missing pictures by email, he is a very amiable chap. I have done just that with a lot of people who required pictures from a lot of my old posts.

Hope this helps.

John