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Another idea for this sort of mechanism. This linkage provides a near rectilinear motion

The screws arrived and I managed to finish the parts. I made a quick assembly to check for bindings spots in the shaft. After a couple of minutes for breaking in the pump runs just fine! I still have to cut some gaskets and polish all the brass to call it finished! Here are some photos...

You can also give it a try with contrary ground tool bits: how-to-grind-and-use-the-contrary-finishing-tool

Take a look in those insert cutting edge: If the cutting edge is a little "rounded", these inserts would work better in high power and rigidity machines and would have a longer tool life. They are better for shearing the workpiece rather then cutting it apart. For lower HP machines and less...

How tight is the belt and how tight is the motor mount? You may be having trouble caused by 2-phase motor vibration To read a bit more about it: single-phase-motors-can-effect-lathe-finish-cuts

Very nice job, Steve! This engine is coming along nice!!! Can't wait to hear it's sound.. Now the only thing missing will be an "engine air compressor" for your "air compressor engine"!

Thanks for following this build, guys! Edi, my machines are all handcranked for now, and will remain this way for a while... :( Ian, there are golden chips everywhere in the shop! hehe I've made the "frame" to support the pump case Inicially, I was going to make the column square...

Just made a little more progress in the water pump build: To place the cylinder pivot, first I countersunk the hole in the outside Then the pivot was placed with the pin just about 1,5mm (1/16) protuding from the case Time to hammer it a little bit I only have to file and...

First of all: very nice build, Steamer! :D Also, what kind of solder are you going to use? Phoscopper or lead (electronics solder)?

Thanks for the support, guys! Finding the right size of brass for the case was a bit difficult, so it took a while to continue this water pump. First step: cutting the lump of brass to size and squaring it with a 2 1/2" face mill. Although the surface looks like scratched, it's very smooth...

Few updates in the crank: The crank sides were milled to dimmensions This milling used a 2mm endmill. 4000 rpm and 0,1mm (0,004 in) DOC per pass Drilling the ports: The intake port is fairly easy to drill, just a 2mm drill straight port. The "pressurized" port ir a bit more...

Hi guys! A few months ago I saw this oil pump in Popular Science Magazine and since then I wanted to build one. Instead of an oil pump, I´ll use it as a water pump for a (yet to be built) single cylinder IC engine. I know it´s a silly project, but for a begginer like me this is a real...

That`s a very nice looking engine! Are the cam lobes hardened? I wonder if the balls in the tappets could carve a groove in the cam... :hDe:

Hi! It`s a little difficult to make the plans for everyone, because depending on the rotor`s weight and magnets strength the distance between the base magnets would change? The heavier the rotor and weaker the magnets, the closer the base magnets would have to be placed. I made a little jig to...

Hi! I just finished my version of the mendocino motor. Many thanks to George_Race for the inspiration and work-in-progress thread: it helped A LOT! I'm still having some difficulties in balancing the rotor. It's VERY sensitive! For this reason the motor still needs a lot of light to run...

Thank you and congratulations to all who participated in this magnificent engine building. Everyone did an awesome job and worthy of the Project of the Month. I recommend everyone to participate in a team build when you can: It`s great! ;D

Maverick: to attach the mount to the crankcase I drilled and tapped and M6 hole in the bottom of the crankcase. The brass mount has a threaded end in the top. In it´s bottom, there´s a M6 hole, and I secure it with an M6 screw from the bottom of the wooden base.

Hi guys! I just finished assembling the engine! I spend quite a bit of time to adjust the clearance between the valve and steam chest cover. It runs great even at 5 psi! The base is made of Muiracatiara, a brazillian tropical wood that tends to get a reddish color with time. This is truly a...

Last time i removed a broken tap from aluminum I used nitric acid. Just put a drop in the hole, wait, clean and then another drop until you can remove the tap. In some places it can be hard to find, but since I had it here, it dissolved the tap in 10 minutes. Nitric acid doesn't attack aluminum...

Parts 99,9% done! I just need to round the cylinder's edges and give a final polish on them! Will ship them on saturday! Sorry for the delay! :-[