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I haven't silver brazed yet, but I have done good old bronze/brass whatever brazing with the flux covered rods. I was brazing some carbide blanks on when my Oxy tank on my Oxy-Propane brazing torch gave it's last gasp (Like the torch... hate the llittle oxy tanks because they are just compressed...

It may not be the "right" way but I usually grind a notch in it on the grinder using the corner of the wheel then clamp one end in a vice and after covering with a shop rag I smack the other end with a hammer. It works, but I think using a dremel cutoff wheel at least for the grooving is...

No experience with it myself, but maybe you could set up a small cutting bit and nibble each flat one at a time the same way you can broach a keyway slot? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XcU0LTavzDM I'll be curious what others come up with. My answer has always been just "Come up with something...

LOL, I forgot the pic... Like this one.... Which, BTW is like $7 on Ebay.

I use a screw in LED bulb (Standard socket... lke this) in my lathe lamp. Not energy conservation, just plain safety. I replaced it when a chip (Or something) smacked the regular glass bulb while I was working and broke it. I figured the same could happen to a CFL. This has a nice thick...

OT Heh...I want a "Buffer wheel stop" that makes it stop grabbing things that are mostly shiny and throwing them back at me at high speed. (It's the one tool that has bit me hard enough to really put that "Sit down for 20 minutes and shake while you think about that one" fear in me.) /OT...

I threw a bid out on a Mitutoyo Digimatic indicator, not actually expecting to win with my paltry bid. ($40) I got it for what I think is a "song".. $36 It was listed as used, but it still had the protector film over the plastic and shows zero signs of use. .5" range, .00005" rez or 12MM/.0001...

Heh... it happens in other bussinesses as well. I once was part of a team that was going to have to work all weekend to re-designate 685 desktop PC's to look to a new server. "Per1" and "Per2" were being consolidated into one larger server that could handle the duties of the two old ones. I...

:big: :big: I can *so* see myself doing that.... spend hours making something then.... ummm... where's the reverse switch? ???

OK... I will be the first to say it.... who wants a saw that is so weak it won't even cut a hot dog? ::) :bow: Seriously though.... all kinds of products have safety items that are basic requirements. Newly manufactured cars must have seat belts (And brake lights and...). Cribs can't have slats...

I guess it depends on who you ask, LOL. Enco is running a promo where you get an entry for a $500 shopping spree for each item you review. I decided to "Go for it" and reviewed everything I ever bought from them. Looking back through the old receipts was kind of fun, each kind of "step" as I...

Ohh yeah, there are tons of ways around it. I actually don't mind it so much when I am setting a height and locking down the gib. It's when drilling or feeding in Z when it's a PITA, lol. (Or when I forget to lock the gib...) This one has a rack/pinion and the pinion in turn hooks to a worm...

My rack "shim" was quick and dirty... I used aluminum foil tape, like you use to seal up duct work. (But not duct-tape/duck-tape) Stick it on, trim it with a razor and try it. I think I used 2 layers? RE: Tightening gibs... that's not really what the problem is. Of course you can tighten the...

Opps, yes I should have pointed out that I was talking about the feed/record groove thing when NOT using a geared feed from the leadscrew. If it is a geared feed then upping it from 100 RPM to 1000RPM only serves to also increase the feed from 1 IPM to 10 IPM, which in effect keeps the "record...

Hah, kind of. Think of it this way... if say you moved 1 inch per second @ 100 RPM, you would divide that inch in to 100 parts each one being a "groove" like in a record. At 1000 RPM even keeping the exact same 1 inch per second feed, that same inch gets divided up into 1000 grooves. 10...

Correct... my understanding is that the 55 and 60 aren't critical to an actual value, but that whatever they are is the same all the way across the bar is more important. That gets covered by both being flat planes (I think) but if it's 55.2^ or 52.1^ it won't really matter too much. The whole...

Thanks for the input and offers of help, everyone! I keep reviewing the idea of an overhanging fly cutter and I just can't seem to find the flaw. As long as I have the mill trammed as best I can (Which would need to be done in any method) and I have a nice sharp and well radiused cutter in it I...

It's cast iron, being hand scraped in line using a reference surface plate and hand scrapers. So, the rough machining really only needs to get me within a "couple thou" but the closer it is, the fewer hours I spend refining it, LOL. Surface grinding would be a nice start, though. I thought I...

I have a 12" long hunk of cast iron I need to rough machine in preperation for making a precision straight edge and dovetail master for scraping. This means shaving one side flat, then the other side parallel. Then, the two opposing sides that remain will get a 60^ and 55^ angle I have a mill...

Rake60... I know that refreshing snap-crunch feel you are talking about! Old thread... and I still haven't done much about the Z axis. I have a DRO so it's a little easier to fiddle-by. Dial it in, lock it up and go. I still hate it... it's the least well performing axis on the machine and...