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Concentric accuracy was not measured, we had two objectives: first to have the drill exit the blank on-centre in a bore of 120mm+ and two, to be sufficiently straight that any cross-holes could meet the bore precisely. I am trying to find any drawings but so far none and the internet is no help...

When I first learned about deep boring I was learning musical instrument making, oboes in particular although my “masterpiece “ was a Northumbrian smallpipe. The bore of those is typically ⅛“ (3mm for the younger viewers!). We drilled them in the manner of gun drilling of old - a cylindrical...

Patience I have. This project is primarily to improve my machining skills and it seems to be improving my machine as well. I plan to make some spares, not just spare cylinders, and I’ve yet to dare fully machine the casting I bought from you. I’ve been joking that this is a 5-year project but...

Hmmmm. I don't think I'll be catching you up anytime soon Andrew! You are at least nine cylinders in front of me....and I do seem to spend some of my time scrapping bits of the job. And currently a lot more trying to fit a DRO to my Roundbed! I'm not sure about the case hardening. If Les hadn't...

Some more work today, made the gudgeon pins and the aluminium end slippers as well as starting to machine the conrods. Reducing the 4mm aluminium bar to ¹⁄₁₆" - all done in one cut: Then the gudgeon pins are tapped onto the end: Before being sawn off for final finishing: I only made 20 of...

Here's an update, not a lot of progress on the Monosoupape, but a bit more improvement to the machinery..... This is the big-end, second attempt with the nine holes at the correct locations, the counterbore is done and the 4BA threads. It still needs finishing to size and boring the oil holes...

Excellent ideas! I really like using things in less conventional ways to achieve a result.

I was thinking about making a fixed steady out of a spare saddle that I have but I haven't needed to yet. The steady I have made allows me to support either end of the crankshaft using different brass bushes - essentially I think I need to support it at one end or the other for drilling...

That's right. I have a Drummond Roundbed lathe, a US-built WW2 pillar drill and a Drummond hand shaper.

Here's some photos from today. The big end is actually a write-off since I dialled the rotary table wrong, but it's a good exercise! First photo is centering up the rotary table on the lathe with the table fitted to a vertical slide: Next drill the 3mm tapping hole for the 4BA thread: Then...

Here's some photos of more work, mostly parts and moving the crank onwards, plus starting the crankcase: Starting to set up the big end on the rotary table: Truing up the crankcase casting: Starting the crankcase boring: Fitting into the jig:

A little more work on the crankshaft today. Not all sweetness and light but another day should have it complete..... Marking out the web: Shaping the web, all done with a hacksaw and a 2nd cut flat file: Finish shaping, blued so I can see what I'm filing.... This last photo shows the...

One of the factors is that in the last couple of years all imported raw material prices in the UK have risen due to Brexit and associated extra paperwork. In my business we have seen an uplift of 25% which seems to be fairly average across the board. I don't think the price of castings is going...

Super job!

Some more progress. This is my solution to the fixed steady on the Roundbed lathe. Yes, the steady travels with the saddle but since it is mostly used when using the tailstock, and for those instances where I need a slide, I can turn the cross slide through 90º. Not a perfect solution but...

Okay, so I scrapped the crankshaft front, made a new one and scrapped that. 3rd time lucky? Why do I find it so hard to make two pieces that have centres 0.500" apart? The main crankshaft is 0.500", the front started at 0.550" so I plugged the hole and re-drilled at 0.500". Upon reaming with a...

Here's where I am at the moment: Jigs & fixtures time - it allows me to get the tools sorted, checked, shapened and honed! I've started the crankshaft too, it's a little further on that the picture shows but not much, the crankpin is in and I've started roughing out the front part. This...

Hmmm. I just looked at the Rimfire V3 - $35 each! Makes it rather expensive since I need nine of them, so I'll be making the spark plugs too.

The engine I'm building specifies Champion V3 spark plugs - 14mm thread, 5/8" (16mm) spanner size, 7/16" reach - of course, they are made of pure unobtainium these days. Can anyone suggest an equivalent? On the other hand, I've seen articles that describe making spark plugs in the DIY workshop...

I'd be wary of silver soldering - I don't think it's strong enough for a crank. I brazed my Gnome crankshaft following advice - I had proposed silver solder because I've been using that material for 50 years but engineer friends said it may not survive so use braze instead. The only problem with...