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That looks like some quality gear and shouldn't give you any problems. The collets will grip a drill better than a chuck. I've added a bookmark for that retailer for whenever I get around to replacing the lousy ER11 collet set I have. I found this last video from ToT about collets to be...

Wow! Thanks for going through the effort to scan your documentation! I think you have something that's very rare. I can find very little information on this model via search. Vintagemachinery.org has a scanned manual (pages out-of-order) and a vintage Dumore ad showing your drill. Someone...

I don't use a speed controller (Variac or Triac) with the Dumore so it's always running full speed: 17000 RPM. If you look on the speed & feeds chart, this is actually on the slow side. :) I thought I posted this video on this site, but maybe it was the other one. Drilling the .3mm hole.

Wow, that's a little jewel! Do you know the history behind the x-y table setup for the Dumore? I never have seen one like that before. Your Dumore looks similar to mine so it's around 50 years old according to the factory. My Dumore was a bit of a fixer-upper, but it works fine and I bought...

Yes, sensitive drill presses are nice, but do you only have one? 😝

Yes, holding drill bits is one thing collets are good at. Here's an ER-11 collet on an extension shaft held by an Albrecht 1/2" chuck. This setup was purchased for drilling in tight spaces as shown. The problem is that I bought a really cheap (~$30) ER11 collet set thinking that would be...

What size drills are you talking about? Since I found out about them, I've been using the 1/8" shank solid carbide drills commonly used for drilling circuit boards. They easily drilled any metal I've tried. You can get the metric ones from China from .1mm to 3mm in .1mm increments pretty...

Years ago I bought a few lots of used/NOS USA slitting saws and made 1/2" & 5/8" arbors to drive them. As Ninefinger mentioned, the very cheap imported arbors seem next to useless with tons of run out so it's better to make your own. Forward ahead to this year and I needed metric stub arbors...

It's sad to see someone sell their shop, but it's good you are able to move your equipment. I'm not really looking for anything right now, but I'm somewhat local to you at Carlisle if you are looking to sell some raw materials. If you wish you can send me a list of your stock at some point.

Just finished a project, a 3D printed working clock. I bought the STL files from Steve Peterson and his clock website is here: https://www.stevesclocks.com/ I printed SP8, the "coup perdu" although I used the optional deadbeat escapement. It was a major project for the 3D printer with over...

Any decent scales should have installation instructions which you should follow. It's important that the scales are aligned parallel with the travel of the machine slide, not only for accuracy but for reliability and long life. If the scale head rubs at the extremes of travel you will...

I did a blog write-up on the whole project here: https://doug.sdf.org/2019/06/26/led-mill-spindle-light/ If you have any questions feel free to ask. One improvement that could be made is adding some strain relief for the wires leaving the epoxy potted piece.

I made one of those mill lights awhile ago with 3 nested COB LED rings. Since these tend to get soaked in oil, a 3D printed enclosure for the rings was made and then they were potted in epoxy. It's been working fine for several years now. and

Why so much interest in a 4 year old thread? WSMKID hasn't logged into the forum for over 2 years...

This looks great! Thanks for the great plans.

Thanks for the code! The OpenSCAD file was easy to modify for my use and both boxes came out great! The box/lid clearance setting came in handy for me as I printed these with a .5 nozzle, .4 layer height and .6 line width for maximum speed on my printer. The corners bulge a bit but it's worth...

A very interesting engine and I appreciate the time you have already spent on making and posting the plans and documenting your build. Just add your .STP files into a ZIP archive and then you can upload that file into this forum. It's also easier to download one container file over a multitude...

While I agree that from a craftsman standpoint a nice brass gear is superior, especially for a highly detailed scale engine, it's certainly handy to easily produce plastic gears for testing as material is expensive and shop time is scarce. Looks like the .3mm nozzle and new profile worked...

I'm not a CAD expert by any stretch, but no, you can't import other program's files. The universal object between CAD programs is a STEP file, which will just give you a 3D object without any build history. You can work with that, but with the orbiting gear I mentioned above it was just easier...

I finished off the gears you made. It was easier to make a new orbit gear as part objects imported into the Part Design workbench (what I used 99% of the time) are difficult to modify. The gears seem to fit together well enough.