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Indeed, room for improvement. Given that the tank will not take any mechanical load, I deemed this to be sufficient. Next time I will indeed also add preformed solder from the inside. However, it is difficult to tell if that has completely melted as you cannot look into the tank anymore. Hence...

Building the gas tank from some parts in yhe scrap bin: square tube and 2 discs (scrap from a stamping press) that fortunately have a diameter that fits the diagonal of the tube. Soft soldered together and quite pleased to see that the seam becomes nearly invisible after cutting off the excess...

Lets see if it also runs on a proper carburetor. Chuck Fellows design with a tapered air inlet

I always thought that the valves had to be some sort of stainless steel to avoid corrosion and hence leaking valves over time. What is your experience? Would save me buying and machining stainless next time.

Primer and paint were difficult to process. Both are rather thick, cannot be diluted and are supposed to be used in a rather thick layer. Given that I only wanted to apply a thin layer, not to obscure detail, the paint dried rather quickly into a paste leaving a lot of brush strokes visible...

Starting the paint job

Stable running with the new carburetor. Still there is a very low frequency oscillation in the rpm i.e. slowly increasing and decreasing about once a minute minute. Now it is time to take it apart, degrease, prime and paint it red

Now the engine is running reliably, time to replace the screws by studs and custom made high profile nuts.

Just for correctness, the starting pressure is 20 bar (290 PSI). I misread the manual were it was written 20.0 which I read as 200 :eek:

This a full CAD/CAM/CAE/PLM software like Catia from Dassault. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siemens_NX

In a typical application, the pressure is generated by a compressor that is driven by the engine itself. This is a chicken/egg problem, so the first time you need another source e.g. a compressor on the shipyard, or a mobile compressor in case the engine is installed as a stationary...

Cylinder oiler, both functional and decorative

I have the following equipment: - Proxxon PD400 manual lathe (maximum diameter 125 mm x 300 mm between centers), which is a very accurate lathe, capable of reproducible work within 0.02 mm - Proxxon BFW 40/E manual mill (150 x 150 x 150 mm travel) - Denford Orac CNC lathe with roughly the same...

Hi Chuck, The diesel is injected by the fuel pump that is connected to the injector by a tube. The fuel pump is indeed driven by the camshaft and is directly above the camshaft. Next to the fuel pump, the camshaft operates 3 pushrods: the 1st and 3th operate the outlet and inlet valves. The...

I only build one IC engine so far, a petrol engine. If I see how many high precision components a Diesel engine needs e.g. injector and fuel pump, I will stick to petrol engines in the near future. Maybe one day I will try a true Diesel like Find Hansen builds them.

Since my first single cylinder engine is now running, I will start with my next project. The idea is to build a replica of a "De Industrie 2VD5" engine as build by the Dutch brand "De Industrie" which build various marine and stationary engines between 1910 and 1977. The VD range was build...

It is indeed a 4 stroke Diesel engine, at least the real ones as build by De Industrie. Since I'm by far competent of building the key components mentioned by you, let alone design them, I will build this engine as a 4 stroke petrol engine disguised as a Diesel. For that, I will build spark...

Hi, At least 2 or 3 as I'm thinking of a replica of a VD engine of the Dutch "de industrie" brand from around the 1930-1940 era. Apart from a few (~5) single cilinder prototypes, these were all 2, 3, 4, 5 and even 6 cilinder engines. Here a nicely restored 2VD5 which might/will serve as...

Handstarting with a rope. Exhaust is held open during revving to overcome compression. Once the exhaust is closed, it starts time after time. Still some misfiring but in a way that adds character.