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It's probably spun-cast - was done with the melt at too low a temperature - the "pour" proceed unevenly but in regular gulps and produced a helical pattern in the bar which also looks to be temperature shocked and possibly even improperly fused. This process can also produce long epitaxially...

Almega, The base and tube were turned and soft soldered together - it hasn't come apart yet - so it doesn't seem to get hot enough to melt the solder. The original highly polished finish has developed a darker golden patina with use. I drilled the bore of the body and followed up with a 12mm...

Postscript - I would pickle the flywheel before soldering as the porosity is almost certainly badly oxidised. Regards, Ken

This is not the same thing but these flywheel spokes are soft soldered in :- The one on the left was polished (but not lacquered) 2 years ago and has aged - but initially the solder annulus was all but invisible in spite of its colour - the finish has since aged and the spoke and solder have...

Welcome to the site - are those gauges functional or aesthetic ? If functional we would all like to see what you did there. I you are making more, document the process a publish it here - I for one would greatly appreciate it. Great work you've come to the right place. Regards, Ken

The inner rim only requires a single hole for the big end clevis - I could have milled the rest away to leave just that one anchor point. Left as a rim just looked too plain - all the other holes are just for decoration - apart from the duplicate redundant clevis mounting point on the other...

Do not use two "O" rings on a piston - it's fatal to the "O" rings - if you want to use two for stability (for instance) then the gap between them must be vented to one side or the other or one ring deliberately cut. Pressure is pumped up between the rings until they extrude. O-ring for piston...

I Very much like your reversing gear. Very nice engine - good runner. See my crankless version (and another which got me going on mine), https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/crankless-internal-rotating-cylinder-engine-circe.31900/ Regards, Ken

Yes - that just appears to be a two pole switch direct to the motor with one of the leads branching via the capacitor. Regards, Ken

Starting to sound like you've lost a winding along the way. Stick with the low speed if that suits you - but sooner or later its going to turn to smoke - if you then have go to the trouble of having it rewound, you might as well go to the trouble of rewinding it to 3 phase and use an inverter...

Again - refer my rewinding a single phase to three phase - particularly relevant when changing the motor is difficult. Single Phase To Three Phase Rewind - Lathe Uprate Or go through the attachment. Regards, Ken

Further musings :- That's not strictly true - you could have one of the run windings open circuit (or disconnected / switch problem) and it will start and run in low speed (4 pole mode) - effectively limping along but it will run ! However when you go into 2 pole mode with one of the run...

There is no high speed winding as such, its just a different configuration of the windings by switching - so if it runs fine in low speed it should also work in high. However you could have one inoperative start winding which I'll explain later. I would presume you press start forward or start...

Here's a diagram off the internet showing how you "rewire" a 4 pole to a 2 pole properly. As you can see it involves bringing out all the winding ends and requires much more complicated switching to do it properly - hence my comment on the "creative" solution on your machine. This is showing...

O.K. this post is going to get a bit technical (and hopefully no mistakes) Firstly this is how a single phase 2 pole motor operates :- Each pole consists of a pair of opposing coils, one pole pair is the "running wind" and the other pole pair the "starting wind". The running wind is...

Mike, No problem - see attached - even has the wooden base. The build notes are too large to post here (as PDF or DOCX) - if you would like a copy send me your e-mail address via a PM. Regards, Ken

For some strange reason, I never posted this 3D animation of the motor by Johnmcc69 - much appreciated. It's short so immediately press pause, right click to open the menu and select "loop" so it runs over and over - then hit the forward icon to resume playing the loop. and the 3D Regards, Ken

Good call - never assume. As per the diagram for the spindle motor (with wires disconnected) check for continuity for the four coils coils V1-Z, Z-X1, V2-W & W-X2 there should be no open circuits. Resitance should typically be <1 Ohm. Next check for inter-circuit shorts V1 to V2 should be open...

Valentin thanks for the response - below the changes made to improve its appearance. That modern stainless bracket just looked horrible, Regards, Ken

Hmmm.... I should have known better than to teach you to suck eggs - I would just hate to see it go pear shaped for something I might have cautioned you against. That said - this forum isn't just for us - hopefully others get to take something else away from this. Regards, Ken