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Terry. I am enjoying this build as much as all your others. I was looking at the beautiful work in the heads and a thought passed through my mind. Just think how good a Knucklehead radial would look! You might need to rearrange the direction of the head fins though, and a few other...

I am going from memory. And looking at the drawings in your duplicate post , i suspect the dial plate is held on to the body with glue/double sided tape. I would put a small hook tool through the hand hole and gently pull. You should be able to see where the dial is attached by the flex in the...

Sorry , there is a retaining ring around the edge of the dial that need prizing out. The dial plate is thin.

You need to pull off the hand first. it is a press fit. You almost need a special puller so as not to damage the thin dial. There is a recess in the center that dose not support the dial. Then the dial lifts off and the retaining screws will be visible. It is a while since I last opened mine.

You really need a s Coventry die head in a lathe to get a good thread as well as a good cutting oil. Dies don't cut good threads. They do cut acceptable threads though. ot get somebody to machine them on a CNC lathe.

Yes , that is the motor driver. you still need a step and direction pulse generator and a 10 amp dc power supply 24/48 volts. The pulse generator can be a PC, aduino or the other board in my first post. It has a lot of very useful features in a small simple package that needs no programming.

It has the advantage that there is no extras required,like programming or PC. I have two that have run hundreds of hours on an industrial machine. They also switch on from "cold" instantaneously.

This is what I use . It has forward and reverse as well as start and stop. Also oscillate between forward and reverse. You will also need a 48 volt power supply. The prices are for multiple pieces, 2 and 4 of each. They work really well.

You have pretty much got it. A small tip radius and straight sides to the tool and enough clearance below and almost any thing will machine properly. Top rake of a few degrees helps on ferrous metals and some sort of lube also helps. One important thing is that the edge must be sharp. when...

Try with much less radius on the tip of your tool. You don't want a long length of cutting edge peeling a wide thin chip. Also make sure your tool is not above center height and check your jib adjustment. Every little bit helps on a small lathe.

That is some very nice machining you have there Pertha!

Kvom. Most curves are drawn by hand on an enlarged photo copy if the uncut brass plate. Often we will explore 2 or more designs before completing a part. The final refining is done by file, as , but that stage we are working with the final part and it my look too heavy or a curve just not...

Pertha. Yes it is like you say. For the ornate work , I Photo copy the piece of brass plart, the drew the art design around pivot and mounting holes on the photo copy,(you can make a many mistakes and changes you like until you are satisfied). Any circular bosses are scribed around existing...

Here is the next update on the clock, http://www.my-time-machines.net/astro-01-18.htm I have ben tidying up a few details, Made new balance springs out of NiSpan C steel which has a zero coefficient of elasticity. Then started on the cosmetic design of the Planisphere as well as the gear ratios...

Dividing plates are easy to make on the dividing head its self. You only have to approximately accurate with drilling as when you put the plate on the crank side any error is reduced by the worm ratio. You could make your self a master plate with a hole drilled every, say, half turn of the...

The sun/moon dial is almost complete. I am working on how to get fine black lettering on thin glass that is real permanent and not having much luck. The best results so far are laser etching through a ceramic spray that should give a dense black print but not the best results so far. If any...

I needed some small stars for the day/night shutters. I had some ‘scrap’ Stirling silver from a previous clock dial so decided to use it. A simple five sided star toolpath was manually written in g code and a Dimond point milling cutter made and the machining trials started. By...

I have started the final assembly of the moon dial .Most parts are finished to 1000 grit sandpaper and then given a quick rub with Brasso to brighten them up. The two plaques are just paper at the moment. They will be fired enamel with a brass frame finally.

The split tap worked fine. Knock in the wedge till it cut the thread big enough. Small taps just break to easily when glass hard. I have far to many interest for my own good and there is never enough time. I use metric threads for the clock, a set of swiss taps ad dies from 1.2 mm down to...

Here are a few photos of home made taps. The smaller, around 1/4 inch and down I use silver steel. Any thing larger I use mild steel and case harden. Fluting is not very critical at all. When using silver steel, temper a little more than you would for a cutter. Almost starting to go light...