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I don't want to hijack this thread on this but it does need a response. You received a private note about about not copy-and-pasting the same post in multiple threads - and your posts were even left intact - in an attempt to enlighten you about the rules. Your response to this was to publicly...

Wow, that looks like a lot of very nice work so far!

You were asking for advice, specifically about a tool - I would have thought the 'Tools' forum would have been the obvious choice for your thread myself. However, you chose to put it in a thread only those looking to buy or sell actually read and then spam 2 other completely unrelated threads...

I think, but don't know for sure, that if you machine a flat for the set screw then you have to get the screw exactly perpendicular to the flat when you tighten it. If it's on even a slight angle, the shaft can rotate a touch and this releases the tension on the screw and it invariably comes loose.

Bill, if you open the video on Youtube and copy the web address of the video, then paste the address into a post here on the forum, the video will display in your post.

Ok, 1-1/2" stem then, which takes the difference in stem diameter down to almost 0.02mm, still well outside the tolerance I like for my valve stems (to be honest I look for < 0.01mm variance over the entire stem length on valves). I would think a 2" valve stem would be a Brigss and Stratton...

Welcome back Bryan. A first I.C. that gets a lot of love is the Webster but you might also consider the Kerzel hit and miss as it doesn't seem overly difficult (I've never built one but played with one a bit). Both plan sets are freely available and they're both bar stock which is an easier (and...

I'm with the OP on this one (and it sounds like we're in the minority) but I would be quite upset if my lathe was delivering a taper of 1/2 a thou per inch as he describes. Relating that to making I.C. valve, that means my valve stem would be 0.025mm thicker at one end than the other, when I...

Welcome to the forum Joseiarca. Please post in English on the forum - using Google translated text is perfectly fine.

Bear in mind that the radius on the outside of the rod might be needed for clearance to the cylinder skirt at half stroke. I don't know about this engine but on some the rod will foul if left 'square'.

It seems you can buy long taps of that size LINK, but I don't know how good the cheap ones will be and the brand name ones get really expensive. I've never done it but it's possible to make a tap from a bolt. Being that this is only for tapping in aluminium, maybe you could make a tap for this...

I believe that similar to emissivity differences in IR, you would need to account for reflectance in the visible spectrum as well as ambient effects. Molten aluminium is a good example - it appears silver to the naked eye (until it gets really hot) yet is actually emitting in the visible red...

Last time I made a batch for pickling I just put a bunch into some DI water. Citric is a 'weak' acid (so doesn't fully dissociate in solution) so it should be difficult to get too 'strong' a solution to cause any issues. I don't remember the ratios I used but I'd start with a couple of...

I have trouble building a decent, controllable aircraft with actual aircraft pieces in KSP and yet people can build things like this...

I've got bits of plastic that get used every day and are years old - not all plastic is junk.

I wish I could afford the Root-Vandervoort. I have one at the moment that I'm fixing up for its owner and it's a very nice model. It will make someone very happy as they're not being produced anymore and I don't think there's any plans to offer them in the future.

It's coming along nicely and looking good.

I forget what engine it was, but I once built an engine that for some reason had the end of the plug down a fairly deep 'hole' in the combustion chamber. I was concerned that even if the plug got enough of a charge to fire once then it would be surrounded by exhaust gases and it wouldn't fire...

I've never contemplated using 12L14 for valves as I'd be afraid of how quickly the stuff likes to rust. It'll be interesting to see if it causes you any troubles. I agree it's nice stuff to machine though.

I wouldn't think chuck run out would be an issue on a turned piece unless it's an absolute junk chuck and the bore through the jaws is crooked. Now if a test bar is simply being chucked up and measured that's a different story, but the way I read the original post it was after taking cuts so...