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I did the same a few years back and they went out on me a few weeks ago. I ripped them down to replace them before I found out it was the power supply that had gone bad and I haven't got back to repairing it yet. The mill sure is dark now when I'm trying to hit my marks.

For my V4 I milled all the excess away before I started any turning and then finish machined starting from the tailstock end and worked towards the spindle. I used 1144 stressproof which machines very nicely and is less prone to warping after machining. I wonder about your 'cookies' and how...

You're a long way from the auto ignition temperature so that should be fine - but the stoichiometry ratio for explosive combustion is huge for ether so be very careful you don't have any sparks! The druggies manage (mostly) to boil the ether away without blowing themselves up all that often so...

Beautiful engine! Well done.

That turned out very nicely. Well done!

I recently did some work on a full size 10 HP hit and miss from (I think) 1904. This one has a cam operated intake valve as well, but that shouldn't make any difference to the exhaust. It opens the exhaust extremely close to BDC and closes extremely close to TDC. As George rightly says though...

Ah - I wasn't aware you were trying to use a square. I always clock my vise with a DTI and just assumed everyone did. Sorry.

I'd say you want want to keep the closing close to TDC as well. When the valve closes you will be at almost the slowest the engine will go (right before a 'hit') so you don't want to be unnecessarily compressing fresh air and robbing power right when you need it most. This little bit of...

I would, just for safety, although there's arguments against it also. I relied on a press fit for a single, vertical I built from Brian Rupnows design (my choice, I can't remember if the plans advise pinning) and when I had a valve retaining clip fly off the engine locked up suddenly. The quick...

Interesting - I wasn't aware acrylic could stand up to gasoline. I machined a fairly complex part out of extruded acrylic rod a few months ago and polished it up so it was nice and optically clear, then hit it with a spray of isopropyl alcohol to remove any oil residue before I used it. Within...

This is bad advice (in my opinion). Redrawing a plan set, even with changes, is a derivative work and is covered under the copyright of the original designer. It's not just a matter of being unethical but being illegal. As above, it would be breaching Georges' copyright to produce a plan set...

Maybe I'm missing something obvious here but why don't you just used the machined face of the fixed jaw to square the vise? That's the only important piece that needs to be square (or set at a precise angle, etc).

It looks to me like the designer wanted to completely eliminate any ring gap so the ring is made oversized then split. Then the side of the ring on one side of the split is milled down to half thickness, the ring is flipped over and the side on the other side of the split is milled down to half...

Any parting tool can dig in - set your rear tool too low and try it out and you'll get yourself a dig in. If I have a dig-in then I'd much prefer the force to be being applied down through the saddle onto the ways than up which would try and rip the saddle off the bed. You've written ad...

Let's assume the tool is exactly on centreline of the work and is making a shallow cut into the workpiece. If we now deflect the toolpost in the direction of rotation (as we get from cutting forces), it will be towards the saddle from the front, or towards the ceiling in the rear. In both cases...

Designing and building a similar looking engine is perfectly fine. But if you had the drawings of an engine and just drew your own set or based your internal design off the plans then, even if you changed some things, you would probably have issues with copyright. Of course you'd only have...

A few years ago I bought a cheap set of miniature taps and dies from Chronos in the UK. Pretty sure they're Chinese but they've worked flawlessly for me. I've tapped steel, aluminium and brass down to 0-80 and successfully cut a thread on silver steel/drill rod to that size as well, but I've...

Surely this can't be true? If your tool is on centre then it is being deflected in the direction of rotation which has to be away from the material no matter if it is a front or rear post. Same thing if you're above centre and being deflected it's always in the direction of rotation and cut...

That is looking really nice.

Click on my name under my avatar and hit 'Start a Conversation', then, once you've typed the message, hit the 'Start a Conversation' button at the bottom of the message to send it. Everything, covered by US copyright alone, that was not renewed by 1964 would now be in the public domain, but...