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OK as you have made the pattern solid then you are best either with some form of follower or just scooping out the sand down to the mid line which can be marked onto the patern with a sharpie before you get in in the flask. I would tend to make a wood pattern like that with a glue joint through...

Thats basically it the follower stops the sand at the split line like you were moulding the first half of a split pattern What are you making your pattern from? wood or 3D printing

Mostly beech though as I was using up offcuts there are a couple of maple ones in there. 16" flywheel and about 20lbs of iron

Exactly what Richard says, why go to the trouble of making a two piece when a single will do. Here are a few examples, the engine I'm working on now. As these parts will be machined all over and there are no feature sthat require a split its better to use a single that applies to doing it at...

I suppose you could, something like this with spacers under it.

You need to get some more pattern making experience, I've probably done more single piece patterns than split and if you also had a few casting kits under your belt you would have handled plenty of castings from single piece patterns. For example the engine I'm currently making from commercial...

As I said in the other thread unless you have a 3D printer there will be a lot of work making a follower for this part. The actual pattern is very simple in wood but to get a good fitting follower will be much more work. The ring and it's web can be turned from two flat pieces of wood glued...

As I said in the other thread unles syou have a 3D printer there will be a lot of work making a follower for this part. The actual pattern is very simple in wood but to get a good fitting follower will be much more work. The ring and it's web can be turned from two flat pieces of wood glued...

If using woodern patterns then a follower board would be considerably harder to make than the actual pattern. Easier if you are 3D printing as it is just a simple boolean subtraction. Though if in the hole foundry I suppose you could simply scoop away the sand down to the mid line.

I'm not sure how you can cast it without a split mould unless you are going to investment cast. Pat's link on page 2 looks to show a crankcase cut from solid so it does not have the round bosses that the cylinders screw into or the webs between them. Just don't feed it via a "cast "surface and...

Sometimes on Ali they show the photo and image of the most expensive option but the price of the least expensive. You have to make sure you select the actual item you want and then the price will likely go up as well. For example you may see an image of a vice fot $10. But the $10 is actually...

Make a smaller one like I did 24mm bor eis about 2/3rds the size

This is my version of the old Clarkson 1/2" x 1/2" single acting vertical engine. Redrawn in metric and made with a combination of fabrications and cutting from solid rather than the castings which are still available from blackgates in the UK. The finished parts And the assembled engine...

They have a shearing action which is why the swarf peels off in thin swirls. The Tome one I have are still made in Portugal as they have been for 170yrs. I also have quite a few of their other more "normal" files and needle files. https://tomefeteira.com/ Piece of copper pushed along the...

The angle as drawn is far steeper than you would get with a taper pin reamer. Easy to make or buy something like this but with a smaller end. https://reverb.com/uk/item/47083441-tapered-reamer-tool-for-tuning-machine-holes-lt-0815-000 I had my hands on this recently built one, you could ask...

Mine does seem to remove the metal a lot faster and also not clog. I don't tend to use it for just knocking off the corners but when shaping curved surfaces it works well. These are the shavings it takes off of steel

Have a read of the posts on this page, they start with a poor solder joint and lots of black scale, his second attempt is a bit better then further down I show a similar joint being done where the solder flows well leaving a neat fillet...

Another steel fabrication showing light discolouration after silver soldering on the bottom plate, it's 8" wide x 12" tall And the dide mark where it was stood in about 1" depth of acid to clean off the flux which also cleaned the steel

If you are seeing scale then you have got it too hot, the solder should flow just as the metal gets to a dull red (don't do it in bright light) You will get discolouration but it should come off with Emery cloth or wire brush. An acid pickle can be used to remove the black deposits as well as...

Here's one I cooked in the week and starte dmachining today. Build up a good hot bed and then put the castings on top Keep feeding the fire and get it nice and hot, castings will slowly drop down Actually almost dark but the hot embers could be seen through the vents for several hours...