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One advantage of MT3 over R8 on the X2 mills is that the MT3 takes up less of your Z-Axis height. That said, if you're only building small parts that may not be a factor and having R8 will be good for switching to a bigger machine. If you can go bigger than an X2 then do it now. I would if it...

FWIW, on mine: Just spinning flywheel- 27 seconds Flywheel and piston- 16 seconds Complete assembly with no flame- 8 seconds. Not drastically different from yours. My piston is very smooth feeling. It does not cover the flame port at all and is at the end of the cyl in furthest right...

Love that engine--it's so wickedly weird looking, you wouldn't think it would turn. Nice work.

Mine doesn't spin that long either. I can't remember how long it went but it was no where near what Jan recommends. Bolted vs. unbolted--sounds like something is getting a bit out of line. When I set mine up I bolted down the cyl and then the bearing support nearest the connecting rod. Got that...

Great work. Can't wait to see it run.

Love the flame eaters (and hit-n-miss too). Something about the sound they make. Nice job.

Call in the Terminator...the machines are multiplying.

We call those "knuckle-busters". The engine is looking real nice.

That's way to many moving parts for my mind to comprehend. :bow:

I have done this mod (with the exception of milling out the saddle--everything else is ready to go). It works well. Go to GadgetBuilders site www.gadgetbuilder.com and look at what he's done (that's what I tried to mimic). It looks like you have everything except you hollow cylinder looks...

th_wwp

Aswesome job. Neat looking and running engine(s). :bow:

THAT is a very cool engine. Definitely needs to be filmed in slo-mo to see how it really works. Nice job.

If you dont' go the jack-shaft route, there's some info on the web about using a heavy-duty gate-hinge for a pivoting motor mount.

Looking good!

Looks like it's tapping its feet to the music...

Might I suggest this as your new avatar: Rof}

So the threaded end of the arbor pushes on the jaws? I was thinking that tightening the knurled part of the chuck (outer-body) would be what closed the jaws. But in this case it's also got to be threaded further onto the arbor to get them to close? That doesn't seem right. Might help to see a...

Why not just turn up a new arbor where the threads die right up right up next to a flange? Then, as Bogs says, the flange is what will align the chuck. If you end up buying a new chuck, you can donate the old one to me :)

Solid is overkill. I think 1/8" wall would be too thin. Here's how I did mine and I think it's 1/4" wall. Finding a local scrappy that lets you hunt around for stuff is a big bonus.