Stuart Progress

Sarah · Jun 14, 2024

With my little Stuart Progress I have finished the Base and Frame without any problems. The Crank however took it's toll on a couple of Carbide inserts, with the tips chipping, apart from that it went okay. I had heard that the carbide inserts didn't like interrupted turning, I was quite careful with my cuts but they chipped anyway.

The Little End was a bit of a challenge as I had to turn a section of it round and then drill and tap for 5BA. With no 4 Jaw Chuck, I chamferred the tip 1/4" square section and gently easied it into some round brass tube. This was then out into the Lathe Chuck and the required section was faced, turned and tapped. The rounded section was then put into the chuck and faced off to make it nice and neat. I'll post my progress with the Progress as it progresses

.

GreenTwin · Jun 14, 2024

I really like that kit, and I think many would find it a good place to begin building a steam engine.

.

Richard Hed · Jun 15, 2024

Sarah said:
View attachment 157232With my little Stuart Progress I have finished the Base and Frame without any problems. The Crank however took it's toll on a couple of Carbide inserts, with the tips chipping, apart from that it went okay. I had heard that the carbide inserts didn't like interrupted turning, I was quite careful with my cuts but they chipped anyway.

View attachment 157233
The Little End was a bit of a challenge as I had to turn a section of it round and then drill and tap for 5BA. With no 4 Jaw Chuck, I chamferred the tip 1/4" square section and gently easied it into some round brass tube. This was then out into the Lathe Chuck and the required section was faced, turned and tapped. The rounded section was then put into the chuck and faced off to make it nice and neat. I'll post my progress with the Progress as it progresses .

View attachment 157234

Didn't Joe Pi do a vid on this?

jlchapman · Jun 15, 2024

Richard Hed said:
Didn't Joe Pi do a vid on this?

It was Tubalcain. That was my first steam engine build

Sarah · Jun 20, 2024

The Flywheel has been machined and polished.

I had a problem finding a good centre, both sides of the stub axles were off true, as well as the outer rim as well. I did the best I could, it just feels like a compromise though.

I also managed to kill another carbide tip! Any suggestions to help reduce this would be appreciated

Jasonb · Jun 20, 2024

I usually set up flywheel castings so that the inner cast face of the rim runs true as you won't be machining that and if the hub is a bit off I set the topslide to the draft angle and true up the hub. A bit of blending with a Dremel will get rid of any step where it transitions from machined to cast and won't show under the paint.

What shape and tip radius inserts are you using? Moulded **MT type or polished **GT and where are they from. I seldom chip them unless I do something silly.

Mark_1984 · Jun 21, 2024

Watching with interest as I have the same kit unstarted. You’re making a great start.

Sarah · Jun 21, 2024

Jasonb said:
I usually set up flywheel castings so that the inner cast face of the rim runs true as you won't be machining that and if the hub is a bit off I set the topslide to the draft angle and true up the hub. A bit of blending with a Dremel will get rid of any step where it transitions from machined to cast and won't show under the paint.

What shape and tip radius inserts are you using? Moulded **MT type or polished **GT and where are they from. I seldom chip them unless I do something silly.

Thank you for your comments. Do you set the inner cast face to run true in a four jaw Chuck? I haven't got one, but it's on my shopping list. I like the idea of blending the hub with a Dremel.

The inserts I use with my lathe tools are CCMT06, with a 0.4mm radius. I tend to get them from Arc Euro, or the vendors at the shows. Are there better suppliers for the inserts?

I did kill one tip with a silly, I just fed it in too quick. The others were just small chips after machining. The damage doesn't look too much but tthe finish was terrible.

Jasonb · Jun 21, 2024

A lot will depend on the flywheel and to some extent the chucks you have as to how it can be held.

If possible I like to hold on the inner face of the rim as that allows you to get at the most surfaces with one setting but sometimes you can't get the jaws in, particularly if it is a 5 spoke as they don't work well with 3 or 4 jaw chucks. But the usual 6 spoke is often OK to hold with a 3-jaw in which case the inner face will be trued by those jaws. Like this Stuart 10V size one is being held

This one I used the 4-jaw on as it would not work with a 3-jaw but still holding by the inside so most surfaces can be machined

Others you may find the inside is not round so you will never get it true, in cases like this turn some of teh inner surface and just like th ehub blend it in, this is a 7" stuart you can see where I have trued it by turning

And after blending

Then Paint

Those insert should hold up OK though if you have a smallish lathe I would suggest the CCGT 060204 as they are sharper so put less strain on the lathe and although meant for non ferrous will work on steel, stainless and iron too. The unbranded ones from ARC are OK, also worth having a look at APT, they do packs of two for hobby use if you want to try them out. https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/carbide-tips-hobby-use.html

Something else worth getting is one or two of the holders that use the other tow corners of these inserts, that way you get 4 new corners out of them and not two, also being obtuse rather than acute they are abit more durable so good for roughing and use on castings. APT only go down to 10mm square but someone like JB Cutting tools at the show should have 8mm ones https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/apt-75-scbcrl-lathe-turning-tools-for-ccmt-inserts.html

Richard Hed · Jun 22, 2024

Do you have a face plate? It shouldn't be too hard to set up with a faceplate. Before the development of chucks, machining was exclusively between centers and on faceplates. (Me thimpfks.) I have a four jaw but I am always keeping an eye out for another, for smaller or larger sizes and so that I can take one setup off the machine without disturbing the setting to do a different part with a different 4 jaw.

Sarah · Jun 23, 2024

Jasonb said:
A lot will depend on the flywheel and to some extent the chucks you have as to how it can be held.

If possible I like to hold on the inner face of the rim as that allows you to get at the most surfaces with one setting but sometimes you can't get the jaws in, particularly if it is a 5 spoke as they don't work well with 3 or 4 jaw chucks. But the usual 6 spoke is often OK to hold with a 3-jaw in which case the inner face will be trued by those jaws. Like this Stuart 10V size one is being held

View attachment 157525

This one I used the 4-jaw on as it would not work with a 3-jaw but still holding by the inside so most surfaces can be machined

View attachment 157526

Others you may find the inside is not round so you will never get it true, in cases like this turn some of teh inner surface and just like th ehub blend it in, this is a 7" stuart you can see where I have trued it by turning

View attachment 157527

And after blending

View attachment 157528

Then Paint

View attachment 157529

Those insert should hold up OK though if you have a smallish lathe I would suggest the CCGT 060204 as they are sharper so put less strain on the lathe and although meant for non ferrous will work on steel, stainless and iron too. The unbranded ones from ARC are OK, also worth having a look at APT, they do packs of two for hobby use if you want to try them out. https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/carbide-tips-hobby-use.html

Something else worth getting is one or two of the holders that use the other tow corners of these inserts, that way you get 4 new corners out of them and not two, also being obtuse rather than acute they are abit more durable so good for roughing and use on castings. APT only go down to 10mm square but someone like JB Cutting tools at the show should have 8mm ones https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/apt-75-scbcrl-lathe-turning-tools-for-ccmt-inserts.html

Thank you for your reply Jason. I will endeavor to mount my next flywheel on the inner edge as you have done in the photographs. My flywheel is a bit wobbly, with nothing running really true, but there will be a next time soon

. Your photographs are good at showing the mounting.

I will get some of the CCGT 060204 inserts to try and I will look to purchase the tool holder as well. I've got a couple of kits of castings to do so being able to use the other sides of the carbide tip will be good. A friend in the States is sending me a Stellite cutting tool to try as well.

Thanks again for your reply

Sarah · Jun 23, 2024

Richard Hed said:
Do you have a face plate? It shouldn't be too hard to set up with a faceplate. Before the development of chucks, machining was exclusively between centers and on faceplates. (Me thimpfks.) I have a four jaw but I am always keeping an eye out for another, for smaller or larger sizes and so that I can take one setup off the machine without disturbing the setting to do a different part with a different 4 jaw.

Hi Richard, I don't possess a faceplate, or a four jaw Chuck yet. But the 4 jaw Chuck is on my shopping list

Sarah · Jun 23, 2024

Over the weekend I have machined most of the cylinder, only making two little mistakes. The first was getting carried away facing off one end of the cylinder and taking a wee bit too much off. Not a real problem as the cylinder cladding will cover that up.

The second mistake was due to me being a bit tired and I drilled the two holes, which the cladding mounts to, a bit oversized. To get over it I turned a couple of brass inserts and tapped them into place. Then I drilled and tapped the correct thread.

Richard Hed · Jun 23, 2024

Sarah said:
Hi Richard, I don't possess a faceplate, or a four jaw Chuck yet. But the 4 jaw Chuck is on my shopping list

It's quite possible to make your own faceplate. A piece of iron or steel. What type of lathe nose do you have? The nose determines the ease of making a faceplate.

Jasonb · Jun 23, 2024

I would not rush out and get a faceplate, the 4-jaw will be much more useful.

I just had a quick count up and I must have machined at least 70 model flywheels and probably used a faceplate for less than 10% of them. Also don't find the need to use it much for anything these days. If you don't have a mill then it's use may be a bit higher as the odd casting can be mounted to it for machining.

Richard Hed · Jun 23, 2024

Jasonb said:
I would not rush out and get a faceplate, the 4-jaw will be much more useful.

I just had a quick count up and I must have machined at least 70 model flywheels and probably used a faceplate for less than 10% of them. Also don't find the need to use it much for anything these days. If you don't have a mill then it's use may be a bit higher as the odd casting can be mounted to it for machining.

Of course that is true. However, if you don't have a 4 jaw . . . it's quite useful.

And . . . I certainly wouldn't buy one if I had the materials and the lathe nose was easy to build for.

Mark_1984 · Jun 23, 2024

Hi Sarah, can I ask where you got the drawings for this kit? I have the kit which came with the book, but the book is missing some dimensions. The drawings would make it so much easier if they are available.

Thanks
Mark

peterl95124 · Jun 24, 2024

to machine a flywheel I typically use a 3-jaw for a 6-spoke wheel, and use the jaws to grip on the inside of the wheel, that way you can machine the outside of the wheel and the bore for the shaft all in one go and they are guaranteed concentric and it will run straight and true

!!!

Sarah · Jun 25, 2024

Jasonb said:
A lot will depend on the flywheel and to some extent the chucks you have as to how it can be held.

If possible I like to hold on the inner face of the rim as that allows you to get at the most surfaces with one setting but sometimes you can't get the jaws in, particularly if it is a 5 spoke as they don't work well with 3 or 4 jaw chucks. But the usual 6 spoke is often OK to hold with a 3-jaw in which case the inner face will be trued by those jaws. Like this Stuart 10V size one is being held

View attachment 157525

This one I used the 4-jaw on as it would not work with a 3-jaw but still holding by the inside so most surfaces can be machined

View attachment 157526

Others you may find the inside is not round so you will never get it true, in cases like this turn some of teh inner surface and just like th ehub blend it in, this is a 7" stuart you can see where I have trued it by turning

View attachment 157527

And after blending

View attachment 157528

Then Paint

View attachment 157529

Those insert should hold up OK though if you have a smallish lathe I would suggest the CCGT 060204 as they are sharper so put less strain on the lathe and although meant for non ferrous will work on steel, stainless and iron too. The unbranded ones from ARC are OK, also worth having a look at APT, they do packs of two for hobby use if you want to try them out. https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/carbide-tips-hobby-use.html

Something else worth getting is one or two of the holders that use the other tow corners of these inserts, that way you get 4 new corners out of them and not two, also being obtuse rather than acute they are abit more durable so good for roughing and use on castings. APT only go down to 10mm square but someone like JB Cutting tools at the show should have 8mm ones https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/apt-75-scbcrl-lathe-turning-tools-for-ccmt-inserts.html

Hi Jason,

I've ordeted the

SCBCR 1010 E06-APT Lathe Turning Tool

and the 0602 inserts. I only need to chip another two inserts to cover the cost of it

Thanks again, Sarah

Sarah · Jun 25, 2024

Mark_1984 said:
Hi Sarah, can I ask where you got the drawings for this kit? I have the kit which came with the book, but the book is missing some dimensions. The drawings would make it so much easier if they are available.

Thanks
Mark

Hi Mark,

I made the drawings whilst I was laid up for a while. When I have finished my model then I'll do some updates to the drawings. I made the drawing from the book and measuring a few bits. There are a lot of bits that you dont need a dimension for, like the flywheel, the width and height of the rim are what ever you want after they have been cleaned up. Other bits are machined to suit. The drawings are an aid so i didn't have to keep looking things up in the book. I'll make the drawing available when I've put a few changes to it. If you need any help now then I can check that part and send you a drawing copy of that part.

Sarah

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