Bob Sorenson
Well-Known Member
Hi GreenTwin. Thanks.
Time to start final assembly. First take everything apart and clean in acetone. Mask and paint. This #5a is in gloss black. Stuart traditionally uses an olive drab green for the upper part of the engine and black for the base. I think gloss black looks great. Start assembly.
For gaskets, I used heavy paper soaked in steam oil. Our son has a 10-watt laser attachment for his 3d printer. I drew up the gaskets in FreeCad and had him cut them out with the laser. They came out perfect. They look like scissor cut.
I am horrible at sheet metal work. As for cylinder cladding – just get it done. Since the eccentrics are keyed to the shaft there is no adjustment. They either work or they don’t.
The plan for the valve rod fork is totally wrong. Making the fork according to the plan will bind and foul the radius link. There is no way to fix it, just make another. Add a full 1/8”.
The valve is set on the valve spindle by a pair of opposing jam nuts. The photo below shows a length of thread on the bottom portion of the valve rod and none at the top. The top jam nuts are fully engaged, just can’t see any thread. The valve spindle is the correct overall length, but it may be a good idea to shift the threaded portion up about 1/8”
Next time is the finish up and air test.
Take care, Bob
Time to start final assembly. First take everything apart and clean in acetone. Mask and paint. This #5a is in gloss black. Stuart traditionally uses an olive drab green for the upper part of the engine and black for the base. I think gloss black looks great. Start assembly.
For gaskets, I used heavy paper soaked in steam oil. Our son has a 10-watt laser attachment for his 3d printer. I drew up the gaskets in FreeCad and had him cut them out with the laser. They came out perfect. They look like scissor cut.
I am horrible at sheet metal work. As for cylinder cladding – just get it done. Since the eccentrics are keyed to the shaft there is no adjustment. They either work or they don’t.
The plan for the valve rod fork is totally wrong. Making the fork according to the plan will bind and foul the radius link. There is no way to fix it, just make another. Add a full 1/8”.
The valve is set on the valve spindle by a pair of opposing jam nuts. The photo below shows a length of thread on the bottom portion of the valve rod and none at the top. The top jam nuts are fully engaged, just can’t see any thread. The valve spindle is the correct overall length, but it may be a good idea to shift the threaded portion up about 1/8”
Next time is the finish up and air test.
Take care, Bob
