Thats a really nice engine, i think i will make one similar.
Plan to build....steam!!
- Thread starter Maxjon
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Thats a really nice engine, i think i will make one similar.
Maxjon, I'm with Jason- get yourself a copy of the relevant AMBSC code- Copper, Steel, or Duplex, depending on what material and size of boiler you want to use, follow it and be safe.
https://www.aals.asn.au/standards/
Follow the above link, pick your preferred code, scroll to the bottom of the index, then follow the link to buy the code.
https://www.aals.asn.au/standards/
Follow the above link, pick your preferred code, scroll to the bottom of the index, then follow the link to buy the code.
What do I use as a ring on the piston? If any? O ring??
I think the engine would run without a ring if you get the bore and piston relatively well finished and close in size.
Some folks use synthetic o-rings, but I am old school, and so I make my own rings in gray iron.
I thought that making my own piston rings would be difficult, but I was surprised at how easy it is.
I think my 2nd or 3rd attempt at making a ring turned out usable.
No ring I think would work fine, depending on your machining skills I guess.
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Some folks use synthetic o-rings, but I am old school, and so I make my own rings in gray iron.
I thought that making my own piston rings would be difficult, but I was surprised at how easy it is.
I think my 2nd or 3rd attempt at making a ring turned out usable.
No ring I think would work fine, depending on your machining skills I guess.
.
What did you use for a piston ring? Also what size did you make the cylindrical piston rod guide that connects to the conrod, as you made it, opposed to the T slot guide. ??
Nice engine!!
I may get some parts made tomorrow....YAY!!
There are no rings in that one, most of the engines at that time from the likes of Stuart, Gamages, Basset-Lowke of a similar style would not have had any rings, just a shallow groove or two which hold a bit of oil.
The trunk guide is 10mm ID and 12mm OD
The trunk guide is 10mm ID and 12mm OD
That's great! Thanks for that picture! I think I will make a trunk like yours too.
Sorry for the dumb questions....I'm a newbie, obviously. Timing will be my next question.....
As a good starting point the eccentric needs to lead the crank by 90deg plus 30deg, though the 30deg varies a bit depending on air or steam running and the finer points of the ports & valve.
The easiest way to do this is when making the eccentric put the grub screw that will lock it to the shaft at the highest point. When the engine is assembled you can then look at the engine from the side where the flywheel will be rotating clockwise. Set the crank pin to the 12 o'clock position and your allen key that is in the grub screw to 4 o'clock and nip it up there. Or you can look from the otherside where it goes anticlockwise, pin to 4'oclock, allen key to 12 o'clock
For initial setup I like to drop a small piece of soft aluminium wire into the hole before the grun screw as that will save the crankshaft getting chewed up as you make adjustments.
The easiest way to do this is when making the eccentric put the grub screw that will lock it to the shaft at the highest point. When the engine is assembled you can then look at the engine from the side where the flywheel will be rotating clockwise. Set the crank pin to the 12 o'clock position and your allen key that is in the grub screw to 4 o'clock and nip it up there. Or you can look from the otherside where it goes anticlockwise, pin to 4'oclock, allen key to 12 o'clock
For initial setup I like to drop a small piece of soft aluminium wire into the hole before the grun screw as that will save the crankshaft getting chewed up as you make adjustments.
