# Apprentice Demon V8 Build



## student_Machinist (Sep 14, 2013)

Hey everyone 
I feel like Im well overdue posting this but butter late than never right?
















I have photos of most of the setups but I dont want to flood this thread off the bat but if there's anything you specifically want to see then let me know
There is one mistake thats rather easy to see in the third photo which ive recently fixed. Parts like the oil pan have had more work done to them but Ill post some more up to date pics later.

If anyone is wondering why I decided to take on this project its because where I work I get almost no training any all the work we do is to a rather low standard as far as machining goes. I really needed something that would test me and Steves V8 was just the ticket.

Hope you guys like my progress so far and I'd be happy to answer any question or post more pics if you'd like

Cheers Jonathan


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## petertha (Sep 15, 2013)

Nice! Keep the pics coming. Is this where you are at for parts thus far, or you have other parts made & just begun uploading pics?


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## skyline1 (Sep 15, 2013)

Some beautiful precision machining Sir  

To hack that from solid takes good tools and much skill in using them  Apprentice indeed, methink thou art a master in disguise. (or a fellow journeyman)

Regards Mark


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## stevehuckss396 (Sep 15, 2013)

The block looks real nice. I see you made an extra hole for the head bolts. Don't sweat it, once the engine is assembled you won't see it. Everybody here has done it including myself.

I see you are going to be working on the crankshaft. I am also starting on another crank soon for the second engine with the blower.

Best of luck and if you need anything, just post here or email me direct.


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## student_Machinist (Sep 23, 2013)

Just a quick update. This is where the oil pan is atm




Mark: I really appreciate your comment, that's very high praise indeed! Im more or less self taught and have been trying to do this with as little input from my mentor as possible.

Steve: Thanks very much. Every time I looked at the block the only thing I could see was that extra hole! It was only about 1mm deep but i ended up drilling it deeper and shrink fitting an ally pin into it. Im happy now coz its impossible to see where it is/was.

You wouldnt know where a good place to get the necessary taps and fasteners needed? It turns out no one in NZ stocks them which I guess isnt really surprising.

I for some unknown reason decided to make the crankshaft out of tool steel which means i cant machine it in the lathe with out fear of turning it into a pretzel. Ive started making a toolpost grinder which should make things easier but it will take some time to complete.

I cant remember how much detail you went into on the crankshaft you built already but do have any idea what page it was on in your main v8 post?


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## dreeves (Sep 23, 2013)

Jonathan, Wow what a great looking engine so far. Keep up with the pictures.

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Sep 23, 2013)

student_Machinist said:


> Just a quick update. This is where the oil pan is atm
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I get my fasteners from McMaster Carr. They are only a few bucks more per hundred but are good quality. I have had issues with some of the cheaper suppliers with the hex in the cap stripping out. With the MC screws I twist my allen wrench before the heads strip. 

I didn't go into much detail on the crank but i can offer this. I used 1144SP steel for the crank. It machines like a dream and moves/warps very little if any while machining. It sucked and I hated every moment of it but I got thru it. Now that I have finished my blower I find myself to a point where I have to make another crankshaft. I like the idea of the grinder but with 144 and a good sharp tool I shouldn't need it.


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## petertha (Sep 23, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I used 1144SP steel for the crank. It machines like a dream and moves/warps very little if any while machining. It sucked and I hated every moment of it but I got thru it.


 
Hi Steve. Maybe I'm not understanding your comment... or maybe  machinist humour (which might explain why it flew over my head ? You're saying its good stuff & you'd recommend it? They give it a relatively high machinibility 'index' but not quite sure how to interpret that.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/steelguide.cfm

Also, in your opinion is threading 1144SP relatively straightforward too?

How have you found rust accumulation to be on your engines with this stuff, any special storage treatment or oils between runs?


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## stevehuckss396 (Sep 23, 2013)

petertha said:


> Hi Steve. Maybe I'm not understanding your comment... or maybe  machinist humour (which might explain why it flew over my head ? You're saying its good stuff & you'd recommend it? They give it a relatively high machinibility 'index' but not quite sure how to interpret that.
> http://www.onlinemetals.com/steelguide.cfm
> 
> Also, in your opinion is threading 1144SP relatively straightforward too?
> ...



Yes I would recommend it. Many model engine builders use it for crankshaft because of its machinability and stability. Yes it is easy to thread also.

I have not looked in my crankcase for rust but I would think it would be fine as it's coated with oil. I also run WD40 in my gas so after almost 4 years of running, I lifted the head on my V4 and the steel cylinder walls were in great shape . I also burn Turbo Blue racing fuel. I believe it is alcohol free. Many of the builders also burn Coleman fuel/Naptha which is also alcohol free.


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## skyline1 (Sep 25, 2013)

1144SP ?

Interesting , I haven,t heard of it yet .

Probably 'cos I'm a Brit .

What,s the spec on it, sounds like a medium carb steel with attitude (alloy) , which means you can soften and re~harden it (like silver steel ,or drill rod, as some  members call  it), 

It sounds like a good material for a high speed crankshaft , my  steam turbine shafts are silver steel and I haven't had a problem yet, even at the high speeds they run at

I'm not metallurgist but my amateur opinion is that a crankshaft of such material will be well strong enough.

If you have the equipment, "hot forge" it roughly to shape first .


Get it to good red  hot , as close to White as your heat source can manage.

Then"bash and bend it" somewhere near to finished dimensions .( P.M. me, the blacksmithing is quite easy if you know how)


The skin will be pretty hard but the grain  of the steel will follow the "U" shape of the crank

DON'T  QUENCH IT ! let it cool slowly

It should be nice and soft and easy to machine now

This is the way the big guys do it , but you don't need a 500 tonne forging hammer !. A good solid vice, a reasonable propane torch, and some remarkably small hammers will do it

(And an  understanding partner and neighbors , 'cos it can get a bit noisy)


Regards Mark


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## skyline1 (Sep 25, 2013)

Just had a look

Med carbon Manganese Steel   Just what the big boys use for, 

GUESS WHAT 

Forged Crankshafts !

Regards Mark


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