# Jerry Howell's Radiator



## holmes_ca (Jun 21, 2014)

I'm in the process of completing this Radiator for my E.T. Westbury's Sealion, I just took these videos a few days ago,

http://youtu.be/z96aqvk1Rwg

http://youtu.be/E3m8QWB4u6w

http://youtu.be/ktvcIaZq5_8

........Edmund...........Alberta


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

Edmund
Beautiful work on that rad. I dont know about you but I think my blood pressure went up just thinking about drilling those holes. 
:bow:


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## gbritnell (Jun 22, 2014)

Hi Edmund,
I built a rad of Jerry's design for my Holt engine and while it works if I had it to do over I would drill the inner holes much larger for more water capacity and make the fins a little shallower. As long as one has a method of accurately spacing the fins it is an easier method than assembling fins and tubes as I have done on other rads. 
Thanks for posting.
gbritnell


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## holmes_ca (Jun 22, 2014)

bmac2 said:


> Edmund
> Beautiful work on that rad. I dont know about you but I think my blood pressure went up just thinking about drilling those holes.
> :bow:



Hello Bob,
   thank you, re blood pressure, by the time I had 8 good cores, I also had a few not good enough, almost like development stages so to speak, so I used them to test before attacking the real thing, even so at the start of drilling the first of the eight the thoughts were god help if I have a scrapper I have no more material, lucky for me it all went well,

.........Edmund.........Alberta


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## holmes_ca (Jun 22, 2014)

gbritnell said:


> Hi Edmund,
> I built a rad of Jerry's design for my Holt engine and while it works if I had it to do over I would drill the inner holes much larger for more water capacity and make the fins a little shallower. As long as one has a method of accurately spacing the fins it is an easier method than assembling fins and tubes as I have done on other rads.
> Thanks for posting.
> gbritnell




Thank you George,
   your suggestion is duly noted, although I'm afraid its a bit too late coming, as I don't think I will ever need another one, unless this one fails, a bit of trivia, Mr Westbury never designed a rad for the Sealion hence my search for ideas for one, I had thought about making fins and soldering to squashed tubes but from other experiences in soldering it would be messy as my hands are not steady anymore, that,s when I came upon yours on the straight four and  Jerry's design, now for authenticity my preference was your rad but I decided time was of the essence and decided on Jerry's because of machining capabilities (it being easier) as apposed to a more hands on approach with yours, 

But you really did not lose out in the end, your complete set of pictures of your four cylinder with the Ford Radiator are revolving around on my screensaver full screen,

I would like to thank both yourself and Bob for showing an interest,

..........Edmund............Alberta


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## holmes_ca (Jun 24, 2014)

a further update, this is the beginning of machining the header tank, its to hold the cores together,

http://youtu.be/MyH-3ehNxY8

.....Edmund.........Alberta


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## Griffin (Jun 24, 2014)

Edmund

 I love watching your videos and hope to see many more, can't wait to see how it comes together.

 Thank you
Mark


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## holmes_ca (Jun 28, 2014)

Griffin said:


> Edmund
> 
> I love watching your videos and hope to see many more, can't wait to see how it comes together.
> 
> ...



Mark,
   thank you for that uplifting response, and just in case you haven't seen my update a short video on youtube a little by little and it gets there in the end

http://youtu.be/hYOP9M1crSs

..............Edmund............Alberta


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## holmes_ca (Jul 1, 2014)

More progress on the Sealion Radiator,

........Edmund.........Alberta


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## bmac2 (Jul 1, 2014)

Wow. Edmund you cant put that on an engine itll get dirty. If I built a rad that looked like that Id mount it on a wood plaque and keep in the living room. 
Might have to check out the living room part with my wife.:big:


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## gbritnell (Jul 2, 2014)

The rad is coming along excellent Edmund.
gbritnell


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## Griffin (Jul 2, 2014)

I love this, its an inspiration, thank you Edmund  

 Mark


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## holmes_ca (Jul 2, 2014)

Bob thanks, your not doing to bad yourself, just viewed a few posts on your Webster, its looking very good indeed,

Re the living room, I'm pretty lucky I have a wife who sometimes stands at the mill with a little coolant brush dabbing the chips away when I cnc a part, in fact she has told me I have to get this Sealion finished before I croak it,

...........Edmund.........Alberta


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## bmac2 (Jul 2, 2014)

Thanks for checking in. I need to think of a way to but a rad on it scratch.gif
Thats funny, my wife thinks the Mill is just boring and noisy but is fascinated by the lathe.


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## holmes_ca (Jul 3, 2014)

Thank you George, its slowly coming together, when I get it finished I will attach some photo's of Edgar's Sealion, 

..........Edmund......Alberta


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## holmes_ca (Jul 3, 2014)

Griffin said:


> I love this, its an inspiration, thank you Edmund
> 
> Mark


Mark,
    Thank you for your post, its very rewarding feeling you are helping someone in some way, I'm glad you are getting something from my posts about the build on the radiator,

Trivia, I read your post about measuring internal bores, I did a lot of Jig boring 50 years ago and most of the time I used simple internal spring calipers together with made up no/go plug gauges, its amazing how accurate they can measure a bore once you get the feel, its really the same principal as using telescopic bore gauges, so if you see a well known brand Starrett, Moore and Right, ect ect used on eBay, mine are 3 inch and plenty sufficient, and using them they will definitely hone your skills at the same times

If you do buy you need the round type arms,

To illustrate ........http://www.starrett.com/metrology/m...urrentPage=1&displayMode=grid&sortBy=none/asc

Part #274-3

......Edmund......Alberta


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## holmes_ca (Jul 16, 2014)

Update on the progress of the radiator for Sealion,


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## kuhncw (Jul 16, 2014)

Edmund, that is a very nice looking radiator.  It has an old time industrial or stationary engine look to it.

Regards,

Chuck


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## holmes_ca (Jul 17, 2014)

kuhncw said:


> Edmund, that is a very nice looking radiator.  It has an old time industrial or stationary engine look to it.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Chuck



Chuck, Although it never occurred to me, your post does make sense, I have been to a few agricultural steam events and remember a long line of old heavy duty trucks with chains driving the rear wheels, I believe they were Foden, (not sure about that) even today on some of the new trucks the rad has that same look,

Thanks for posting.....Edmund......Albeta


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## ICEpeter (Jul 18, 2014)

Hello Edmund,
Your radiator work of the Jerry Howell radiator for your ETW Sea Lion engine shows excellent workmanship and looks great.

It so happened that I myself am in the process of building two ETW Sea Lions. Besides that, it seems that the two of us share quite a few similarities:

I am of your age.
I have been working on the Sea Lions for now 9 years and time tells me to finish them.
I am married and my wife encourages me to spend time working on the engines as well (I suspect for her own peace and quiet).

With that, I guess we are sharing a seat in the same boat.

I also discovered the Jerry Howell radiator design a while ago and decided to shamelessly copy the idea and implement it with some changes in my own build. The changes I made resulted in a continuous single pass heat exchanger with a total length of 24 inches by effectively looping the coolant back and forth passing only once through all the 6 finned 1/2 inch square tubes. The bore of the tubes is ~ 3/16 (5.0 MM) wall thickness is 1/16 (1.5 MM) The finned tubes in my case are aluminum for better heat transfer using O-rings at the ends for sealing. Top and bottom header is brass. The radiator inlet and outlet is equipped with 1/8" thermocouple to find out the cooling effectiveness. The assembly is put together using Allen head screws and is easily disassembled if needed. No soldering or epoxy glue.

I put a few pictures in below showing the current state of affairs in the build of my engines. I still have quite a bit of work to do on the engine internals since in my style of working I am working kind of backwards, for instance getting the ignition working before tackling the engine guts. For the ignition, I am using the Jerry Howell TIM 6 with a Hall effect sensor. Rigged up the distributor and the four spark plugs for driving with a drill and fired it up. All worked well with decent sparks and no Hall sensor failure while spinning for 5 to 6 minutes but we will see how it goes when the spark plugs fire under compression.

Also copied Jerry Howell's idea of the oil pressure adjustment. Added a small oil sump under the original ETW sump that hides the pressure regulator and also has a 1/8" temperature sensor for measuring the oil temperature. Besides pressure lubing the crankshaft, I also pressure lubricate the 3 camshaft bearings and the valve rockers bushings via the 3/16" hollow 1/16" bored rocker shaft.

Here are some pictures. Apology for the low quality - they were take with an I-Phone. My digital camera battery gave up on me.

Peter J.


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## holmes_ca (Jul 19, 2014)

Hello Peter,
   it gave me quite a surprise to get your post, I was beginning to wonder if any Sealion's were being built, I have had mine going for at least 30 years and that's just the one, so your doing pretty good, and 2 of them at that, I must commend you on your workmanship and added design features, I have filed your photos in a folder to enable zoom for more detail, and I would like to communicate for more details, I basically just followed words and music in my build with just a few changes, I did find a few mistakes on the drawings but nothing too serious, I think I am just going to carry on following Edgars plans, but I have been toying with the idea of adding lube to the top end, I do have an idea but I would like to pick your brains and compare, if you would be willing, I am interested in your metering valve for transfer of lube to the top end,

I don't have my engine together at this point I have attached a few old photos,


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## ICEpeter (Jul 22, 2014)

Hello Edmund (Walter),
Those pictures are great and reflect your outstanding quality of workmanship throughout. As mentioned before, I am not at the point where I have tackled the majority of the internal engine parts. I am getting too much sidetracked by the ideas I am getting while building the engines. Pursuing these ideas for incorporation into the Sealion has me delaying building the actual engine parts.

Regarding your interest in how I am doing the lube of the top end, it is quite simple. I am using the dia. 3/16" rocker shaft as the conduit to provide oil to the rocker bushes and camshaft bearings. I drilled the shaft lengthwise all the way through, drilling from both ends using a dia. 1/16" aircraft drill to minimize the drill wandering too much, although it did a little anyway. Broke three drills and did throw away three shafts - couldn't get the bits out. One shaft end has a shoulder for an O-ring connecting to an oval flange for the oil supply pipe that will be branched off from the oil feed to the crankshaft. The oval flange attaches to the flywheel end of the camshaft housing. The other shaft end is tapped M 2 and capped off with an M 2 set screw to block off the oil. I cross drilled the shaft at the rocker bush locations using a dia. 0.5 MM drill and cross drilled the rocker bushes dia. 0.5 MM as well so that the oil can pass through to lubricate the rocker arms. 
In order to get oil to the 3 camshaft bronze bearings I drilled from the top, where ETW indicates the three places to fasten a possible camshaft cover to the camshaft housing, dia. 2.5 MM holes from the rocker shaft level down to the camshaft level / camshaft bushings and tapped the three holes M 3. Into these three oil passages from the rocker shaft location down to the camshaft location go M 3 vented set screws with an 0.5 MM vent hole to restrict oil flow. These set screws also prevent the bronze bushings from rotation in case they get lose. In addition to the 0.5 MM cross drilled holes for the rocker bushes, there are three dia. 0.5 MM cross drilled holes at the three camshaft bushing locations to allow oil passage to the camshaft bearings. The rocker shaft has to be rotated with the three dia. 0.5 MM holes pointing down to allow oil to pass. To prevent the rocker shaft from rotating, three M 3 set screws from the top lock the shaft in place. To get the oil drained back down, I drilled a 5.0 MM hole through the timing case back plate in a location near the indentation in the camshaft housing under the camshaft. 
I don't have any drawings that show the arrangement. I hope the description provides enough food for imagination but feel free to ask for more clarification if needed. You probably noticed that I am using MM dimensions and metric hardware. That is what I am used to and find easier to work with. 

I mentioned previously that I also incorporated Jerry Howell's oil pressure regulator with some modification into the Sealion build. I have some pictures of that attached, together with a couple of sketches that provide some ideas re assembly and dimensions. 

Peter J.


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## holmes_ca (Jul 23, 2014)

Hello Peter that is excellent I will study in detail your photos and thanks for the input, I seem to have been on the same wavelength re: lubing the top end, I had the idea to extend a line from the central main crankshaft union towards the flywheel end and enter through the rear camshaft bushing with some kind of metering valve, but had not put more thought into it than that kind of adlib from that point, I notice you extender the oil and water bodies outward, wish I had thought of that,

I was going to use a solid rod for the rocker shaft, as I write this I get a vision I have some stainless steel tubing hiding in the shop I will have to take a look, 

I also notice what looks like round inspection plates on the oil and water pumps?, are they for some kind of adjustment?,

While you are at the top end some trivia, the lower outside foot surface of my rockers interfere with a formed acrylic rocker cover I had vacuumed so when I machined the dovetail for location of the acrylic cover they are to close, just something to watch when you get to that part, I also found some discrepancy in centre dims for the gear train, and make sure you have the head gasket made and included when finalizing the gears, the small pin across the oil pump and skew gear should be considered the drawings do not allow for removal unless a mod is thought up,

Hope that helps you,......Edmund.........Alberta


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