# Started a new twin cylinder engine.



## tel (Dec 13, 2008)

As some of you might know, the last year I've been poodle-fakin' about with tooling and the like, but I have just succumbed and got to work on an engine I've had in the think tank for quite a while now.

Don't want to let too many cats outta the bag this early, but here's some progress - the components for the cylinders - hope to get 'em silver soldered up in the morning.


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 13, 2008)

I'll be lookin' over your shoulder Tel. Here's to success in your new engine build

Cheers,
Phil


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## Bernd (Dec 13, 2008)

Hey Tel, I'm going to build a twin in the future for one of those 1 1/2" scale "Clishay"

Here's two pics of what they look like in case you haven't seen them.











I found plans in a magazine later for a bigger engine. The cylinders are square in the plans and I don't like the way the engine looks. I was thinking of making round cylinders. 

Low and behold you came up with the same way to make the cylinders as I'm thinking of doing it. The cyclinders I need to make are a with a 2" (50mm) bore. How large a bore are you using?

I'll be keeping an eye on this build for sure.

Regards,
Bernd


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## tel (Dec 13, 2008)

Thanks guys. These cylinders are nowhere near your size Bernd, only 3/4" x 3/4". I've done a few this way in the past and they usually work out pretty well.

You are right about the Clishay - round cylinders would look much better, I've only ever seen one 'in the flesh' and the square blocks look out of place for the period.


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## Andy_B (Dec 13, 2008)

Another great idea that I can put in my component build file. ;D Thanks Tel.
I'll be watching this one closely.

Andy


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## ksouers (Dec 13, 2008)

Tel,
Count me in as another watcher. I've a feeling this is going to be interesting.

Kevin


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## Maryak (Dec 13, 2008)

Tel,

Baby I am Watching You, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Just to see what you will do. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Sorry, couldn't help myself 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Dec 13, 2008)

;D

... there's no way that you can hold me,
I would rather that you told me,
What you wanna see ...

*Cylinders silver soldered*






*Steam chest components .....*






*.... silver soldered*






*Now I can get on with some real machining!*


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## Metal Mickey (Dec 14, 2008)

Very interesting but why are you keeping your cats in a bag? :big:

On a more serious note can you tell me why you silver soldered two parts to make the steam chests instead of milling from solid? Is it because you have the material at hand or is it for another reason?


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## tel (Dec 14, 2008)

;D The cats shall be released from the bag soon enough!

Good question. I developed a lot of my building techniques back in the days when I just had the Myford lathe, a small drill press and little else. As they have worked so well, for so long, I don't see a lot of point in changing them - the steam chests being a case in point. And I do have a reasonable stock of that 1/4" thick brass angle on hand. The silver soldered construction works well, and I have never had a failure with one, although I've done quite a few that way now. The only thing to watch is that you get full penetration of the joints, so a careful and critical inspection is called for.


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## ksouers (Dec 14, 2008)

And here I just thought it was an easy way to get square inside corners.


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## tel (Dec 15, 2008)

;D Yeah, that too Kev.


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## SignalFailure (Dec 15, 2008)

I want to see how you do the ports as I b*ggered up the cast iron one I tried fabricating (1/16" and 1/8" slots). A dental bur is the tool that's been recommended to me...


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## tel (Dec 15, 2008)

It's a job that is pretty easy to bugger up. Helps if you drill holes at the ends of the three slots and carefully work between 'em with end mills. I have some micro end mills in 1/16" which are pretty good as they are short enough to be reasonably rigid.


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 15, 2008)

Very nice steam chests Tel. Keep the photos coming along :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


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## SignalFailure (Dec 15, 2008)

tel  said:
			
		

> It's a job that is pretty easy to bugger up. Helps if you drill holes at the ends of the three slots and carefully work between 'em with end mills. I have some micro end mills in 1/16" which are pretty good as they are short enough to be reasonably rigid.



Hehe, I'd have to buy a milling machine first ;D I tried chain drilling tiny holes and filing out but broke off a needle file in one of the exhaust slots and trying to get it out I broke one of the 'bars' between the slots --->Bin. Grrrrrrr.


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## tel (Dec 16, 2008)

Ah! Cutting them by hand - that takes me back! Time, I think, to throw open Poppa Tel's Advice Kiosk.

Here's wot ya do.

1. Chain drill, as you said, but leave a little space between the holes.
2. Plug the holes with bits of similar material and file flush.
3. Carefully centre pop the spaces between the plugs.
4. Drill again and clear out the remnants of the plugs.
5. Now grind up a weeny chisel from a broken drill, say 1/8", with a brass 'handle'  on it.
6. Using the chisel and a _small_ hammer, carefully clean up the outside edges of the ports. Don't worry too much about the inside edges as there is a risk of breaking the land between the port and the exhaust port (as you found) - the exhaust edge of the port should work just fine as drilled.

I've been down the dental-burr-held-in-a-Dremel route and find it has a curious reluctance to produce a straight line. Your mileage may vary.


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## DICKEYBIRD (Dec 17, 2008)

tel  said:
			
		

> 1. Chain drill, as you said, but leave a little space between the holes.
> 2. Plug the holes with bits of similar material and file flush.
> 3. Carefully centre pop the spaces between the plugs.
> 4. Drill again and clear out the remnants of the plugs.


Now that's a trick to remember Tel, thanks! Problem is my memory ain't so good these days.

If I had the brains & gumption, I'd generate a giant database with nifty tricks & solutions distilled to their bare essentials, organized and searchable from all directions. Sigh, a dream.


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## mklotz (Dec 18, 2008)

> If I had the brains & gumption, I'd generate a giant database with nifty tricks & solutions distilled to their bare essentials, organized and searchable from all directions. Sigh, a dream.



In effect, that's what this forum is - a gigantic data base searchable by the simple expedient of asking a question. That's why it's so important to take the time to answer even simplistic questions. Your answers to other's questions, gleaned from what *you* remember, are your payment for the privilege of getting answers to your own questions.

It's all rather satisfyingly symmetrical - sort of a miniature example of how nice things can be when people genuinely cooperate.

Ok, I'll go back to writing my philosophy dissertation now.


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## SignalFailure (Dec 20, 2008)

Hijack: just in case anyone doesn't have this choc-full-o'tips link....

http://www.walteranderson.us/hobbies/metalworking/geometer.html

Now, back to the thread Tel...


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## shred (Dec 20, 2008)

Paul  said:
			
		

> Hijack: just in case anyone doesn't have this choc-full-o'tips link....
> 
> http://www.walteranderson.us/hobbies/metalworking/geometer.html
> 
> Now, back to the thread Tel...


You'll want to download them quick if they're still there. The people who believe they have copyright to them (that may be in doubt) send cease-and-desist letters to everyone that posts them as soon as they find out. Sad because they're an incredible collection of tips and information. Were I in charge of that portion of the world, I'd put them up for free download myself (with a 'sponsored by' banner) and sell a $20 CD of the contents.


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## ksouers (Jan 27, 2009)

Tel,
Any more progress to report on this little gem?


Kevin


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## tel (Jan 31, 2009)

I've made a little progress Kev, but not as much as I was hoping for. I'll try to get a few pics this afternoon - off to a swap meet in Bathurst this morning.


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## tel (Feb 12, 2009)

A few more bits done - embryo flywheel components and connecting rods


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## ChooChooMike (Feb 12, 2009)

Paul  said:
			
		

> Hijack: just in case anyone doesn't have this choc-full-o'tips link....
> 
> http://www.walteranderson.us/hobbies/metalworking/geometer.html



P.S. None of those files are actually PDF's, the 5-10 I tried show up as corrupted PDF's. After looking at the files in an editor, it seems they are some intermediate file between HTML (Yahoo web pages) and something else ?? :-\

Mike


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## shred (Feb 12, 2009)

ChooChooMike  said:
			
		

> P.S. None of those files are actually PDF's, the 5-10 I tried show up as corrupted PDF's. After looking at the files in an editor, it seems they are some intermediate file between HTML (Yahoo web pages) and something else ?? :-\
> 
> Mike


The ones I saved are real PDFs, but the Geometer links are all dead now since yahoo pulled the group. What you get is an error page from Yahoo.


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## ksouers (Feb 12, 2009)

Tel,
That looks like it's going to be a pretty good sized engine. That flywheel is what, 4 inches? 4 1/2?


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## tel (Feb 13, 2009)

You've got a pretty good eye Kev - actually 4 7/8". Got 'er stuck together today, but still not cleaned up. Couldn't resist hanging it on the beast and giving it a twirl tho' - looks to be running very true.


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## Bernd (Feb 13, 2009)

Lookin' good Tel. I like those pistons. Nice design.

Bernd


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## tel (Feb 13, 2009)

Thanks mate, it's a bit of a struggle, as I'm working from a single pic - not going for an exact scale model, just something close, with the spirit of the original.


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## Bernd (Feb 13, 2009)

Hey, size don't matter as long as you got the motion. 

Even if it's 1 to 3.146 ratio it doesn't matter. From what I see of the prototype picture you got her spot on. :bow:

Bernd


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## Maryak (Feb 13, 2009)

Hi Tel,

Is that engine in the Powerhouse ???

Looks like your pretty close to scale. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Feb 13, 2009)

Nah mate, somewhere in the UK I think - if it was in the Powerhouse it would be worth the drive armed with camera and sketchpad.


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## tel (Feb 13, 2009)

Ah, I thunk so!

*c1900 used to drive Calico Printing Machine, displayed at the Museum of Science & Industry in Manchester,UK.*

here's the link
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/1011559253027393816PiXaazpGvm


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## Maryak (Feb 13, 2009)

Tel,

Thanks for the link.

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Feb 17, 2009)

BUGGER! More delay - let all the smoke out of the Myford motor tonight! As an ex washing machine motor from the tip, that's driven the old girl for 30 years I suppose it was to be expected, still very annoying tho'.


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## Metal Mickey (Feb 17, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> BUGGER! More delay - let all the smoke out of the Myford motor tonight! As an ex washing machine motor from the tip, that's driven the old girl for 30 years I suppose it was to be expected, still very annoying tho'.



Tel, are you going for the same very expensive dump route, or are you going 3 phase and inverter route for variable speed? I have just gone the 3 phase variable speed route and it is quite impressive although it would not be the same as the washing machine motor. Thinking just as I am writing this - is there a way of using a washing machine motor and use a speed controller of some sort? If there is I will have spent a lot of money on another solution. Please please don't tell me (or even more important not SWMBO) you can do is for a few quid or dollars..............please keep it a secret if you can! Obviously the washing machine motor was up to the job then if it lasted 30 odd years! ???


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## DickDastardly40 (Feb 17, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> Thinking just as I am writing this - is there a way of using a washing machine motor and use a speed controller of some sort?



Modern washing machines (perhaps not 30 year old vintage ones) have a large array of possible spin speeds, It should (might) be possible to harvest the motor and speed controller from a modern front loader. 

There would be some sort of learning curve for operation of it though, ie. fast spin for aluminium, non fast coloureds for steel, rinse for parting and screwcutting. Perhaps the drainage pump could also be utilsed for suds. ;D


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## Maryak (Feb 17, 2009)

Tel,

Commiserations on the smoke. 

Congratulations on the new variable speed drive. ;D (Preemptive strike).

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Feb 18, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> Tel, are you going for the same very expensive dump route, or are you going 3 phase and inverter route for variable speed?



As much as I'd like to go down that route, the coffers are saying a definite NO. Looks like another el cheapo soluion if I can find one. I do have a nice 3/4 hp motor here, but it's a 2800 rpm jobby - way too fast and no easy way to gear it down.


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## steamer (Feb 18, 2009)

Sorry to hear about the smoke Tel. Recently did the same to my big mill....It was the capacitors ( 220V single phase 1 1/2 HP)

So which neighbor has the nicest washing machine? ;D :big:

Good luck....

Dave


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## deverett (Feb 25, 2009)

Very interesting engine, Tel.

I think it was Brunel Models (or possibly GLR) who made a kit of the very same engine. Having a quick look through the various web catalogues of UK model engineering suppliers, the correct supplier escapes me at the moment.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 25, 2009)

I'm finding this build very interesting. This is not your run-of-the-mill (sorry ) engine. 

Cheers,
Phil


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## tel (Feb 25, 2009)

Thanks blokes. With the lathe back in action now I might be able to go forward a bit, although that's been complicated by my also starting on the Ridley Half Beam currently running in AME.

Yep Dave, Brunell do a very similar one, except that it has trunk guides and the 'A' frame is solid right through instead of side plates as per the J. Wood of Ramsbottom version. 

http://www.brunell.com/product.asp?numRecordPosition=6&P_ID=128&strPageHistory=cat&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=69


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## tel (Mar 24, 2009)

No, I haven't abandoned it, in case you were wondering! Got a little bit more do the last couple of days - this thing is starting to look like an engine!


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## flick5848 (Mar 24, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Ah, I thunk so!
> 
> *c1900 used to drive Calico Printing Machine, displayed at the Museum of Science & Industry in Manchester,UK.*
> 
> ...



Which is about 5 miles away from me !

Looking good so far

Chris


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## Maryak (Mar 24, 2009)

Tel,

Yep, it sure is starting to look like an engine and a very nice one two. :

Best Regards
Bob


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## SignalFailure (May 5, 2009)

Any updates Tel? ;D


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## tel (May 5, 2009)

No mate, I've been a bit slack with this one - been working on the Ridley Half Beam and did the dividing head, and working on a QCTP to Harold Hall's design. I do have the slipper guides made, got to do the pistons and rods next, before they can go on. Soon(ish), I promise!


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## tel (Sep 24, 2009)

Yow, how long since I did any work on this - too long.

Ah well - a little bit more progress has been made, the piston rod, piston etc all fitted to the l/h side and the slipper guides fitted.


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## CrewCab (Sep 24, 2009)

Another thread I missed earlier : anyway, up to speed now Tel :bow: ............... as ever, nice work mate 8)

CC


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## Maryak (Sep 26, 2009)

tel,

Wondered what happened to this engine, I love the beamer. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Oct 6, 2009)

Inched a little further forward today - the second (r/h) piston and rod fitted, but not the slipper guides yet.





Instead I had a play around with the 'rear' exit exhaust system - I think it's gonna work


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 6, 2009)

Looks neat! I can't wait to see it run.


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## tel (Oct 10, 2009)

OK poison curls, today I got some more done on the exhaust manifold. It needs a 90° flanged branch, 1/2" long, so I thought I'd go into a bit of detail with it, in case someone ever needs to do something similar.

First, a bit of 1/2" brass is centred and spotted near the end




Then drilled thru 1/4"





Now we move to the lathe, and take a skim to establish the length of the 'pipe' section, which in this case is 7/16" from the inner edge of the hole





Next we centre drill the end, and pop a drill thru so it spots the other side of the hole - makes things a bit easier after.





Then turn down the 'pipe' section to 1/4" diameter - which, of course, means the outer end of the bar goes away somewhere





Now it is an easy matter to drill out the piece to the required 5/64" diameter and part off





Reverse the piece in the chuck and face off to thickness and the piece is made





A dry trial fit. Hopefully tomorrow we'll get the flanges drilled and tapped, and the branch silver soldered into place.





Watch this space!


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## ozzie46 (Oct 10, 2009)

Now THAT is neat! Thm: Thm:

 Ron


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 10, 2009)

Very nice. Thanks for the pics tel. Very helpful.


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## tel (Oct 13, 2009)

Moving right along .....

Forgot to take any pics of drilling the flanges, so you'll have to imagine that bit. When I came to look for it, I couldn't find my handy dandy fitting soldering jig, so I made another one. Thes one is a bit tidier anyway





The bits loaded into the jig





And flux/heat/solder applied in the usual way





A trial fit





Almost forgot to drill thru into the main pipe - that would have been embarrassing





Where we're at today


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## tel (Oct 13, 2009)

And just to give you a sense of scale, here is one of the flange bolts


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## Krown Kustoms (Oct 13, 2009)

Very nice, I cant wait to see this one run.
-B-
the pipes and fittings are a great touch.
how was the 90 done on the pipe?


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## tel (Oct 13, 2009)

Ah, I cheated a bit there - that's just a commercially available elbow. It should really be a flanged sweep bend - might go back and fix it later.


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## Krown Kustoms (Oct 13, 2009)

Still a nice touch.
Where do you get them¿
&#9786;B&#9786;


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## cfellows (Oct 13, 2009)

Really a nice looking steam engine.

Chuck


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## JimN (Oct 13, 2009)

Nice looking engine. Love the flanges you made.

Jim


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## Deanofid (Oct 13, 2009)

It's coming along great. And that soldering jig... Very "handy and dandy". Something for the note book.

Dean


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## Artie (Oct 13, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> And just to give you a sense of scale, here is one of the flange bolts



you are kidding me? Incredible... did you turn that yourself or is it (forgive me this question) a purchased item??


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## tel (Oct 14, 2009)

Nah mate, life's too short to be makin' them little buggers, tho' they are easy enough to do. That's just a commercial 10BA bolt. I did make several hundred 7BA bolts out of round head rivets one time, with a little hand jig and die - they were to represent coach bolts on the inside of a 5"g coal hopper. So I spend I dunno how many hours making and fitting them and then covered up the whole lot by fillin' the wagon up with coal!


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## Bernd (Oct 15, 2009)

Krown Kustoms  said:
			
		

> Still a nice touch.
> Where do you get them¿
> &#9786;B&#9786;



Try PM Research in Wellsville, NY. They sell castings. 

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/

Bernd


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## JimN (Oct 16, 2009)

Nice work Tel, and interesting engine. I have a question for you about the steam chest? When you silver solder it to the cylinder, I assume you clamp it together first, then solder. Is there anything you put between them, or does the solder wick through? Do you start heating the chest in the center to help with the wicking? 

thanks
and nice looking engine, love the flanged pipe works.

Jim
Abbotsford, BC


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## Kermit (Oct 16, 2009)

What photo hosting service are you using Tel?

I went back to see the pretty pictures everyone is patting you on the back for, but I all I see is words refering to 'the pictures'.  The pictures aren't there. Not even a place holder with a red x. Just nothing but text. 

I'd kinda like to see them, but I'm not sure what I can do to make them appear.

 :'(


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## ozzie46 (Oct 16, 2009)

They are ok on my end Kermit, might be something got changed in your browser.

  Ron


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## tel (Oct 17, 2009)

Kermit, they are a mixture of Photobucket and Community Webshots - all showing up here OK.

No Jim I don't clamp them as such, what I do is drill through the flange pieces each end, into the port face piece and install some 1/16" brass pins to hold everything together. My procedure with the silver solder - I put a few centre punch 'pops' on the cylinder where it will be covered by the portface piece, the little craters they raise are enough to hold a tiny gap between the pieces for the solder to penetrate. Give the area a generous dose of flux.For soldering, I lay the assembly face down on my bit of fire brick and give the whole thing a good heating until the flux is 'right', then apply it to the flanges and to _*one side*_ of the portface joint. Once the solder flows in there, play the torch on the other side, and the heat will draw the solder through. It's a lot easier to do than to describe.


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## tel (Oct 17, 2009)

You can make out the pins in this washed out version of an earlier pic I posted





Today's effort - the eccentric strap is well advanced


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## RobWilson (Oct 17, 2009)

looking great Tel :bow: :bow:

have you seen the price of castings for the engine 
http://www.brunell.com/product.asp?...ia=&PT_ID=69&P_ID=128&btnProduct=More+Details

Regards Rob


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## tel (Oct 17, 2009)

Yes Rob, I have - way beyond my 'umble means. Besides, it's more fun this way. ;D


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## RobWilson (Oct 17, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Yes Rob, I have - way beyond my 'umble means. Besides, it's more fun this way. ;D



Hi Tel i could not agree more ,, more fun doing your own casting and making all parts ones self ;D great build :bow:


Regards Rob


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## JimN (Oct 17, 2009)

Thanks Tel, think I will have to try your way for cylinder making. 

As far as the casting price is, plans are to expensive if you ask me. About $50.00 Canadian for me just for couple sheets of paper they copy, lets get real here.

Nice job you are doing Tel.

Jim


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## tel (Oct 24, 2009)

Moved a little further forward this afternoon.


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## Artie (Oct 24, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Yes Rob, I have - way beyond my 'umble means. Besides, it's more fun this way. ;D



Enjoying your build mate. Very much. I agree with your comments, its why I cast stuff that I could pretty much billet mill or buy. Im in it for the fun and sense of accomplishment....


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## tel (Oct 25, 2009)

Thanks Artie, my sediments exactly.

Started on the slide valves this arvo, got one done and t'other marked out - the end is in sight. One slight glitch I've made - I'll have to offset the joints between the valve spindles and the eccentric rods slightly as the respective centres don't quite line up. Still, there's plenty of examples of that in 'real life' ones, so I'm still comfortable.


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## tel (Oct 26, 2009)

A little more done today.

Valves




Nuts done, and spindles almost there.


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## Deanofid (Oct 26, 2009)

Ooo, I hear a runner coming soon.. Looking good, Tel.

Dean


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## tel (Oct 26, 2009)

Yep, there's a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel now ;D


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 26, 2009)

I'm with Dean. That should be fun to watch. Can't wait.


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## JimN (Oct 26, 2009)

Looking good


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## RobWilson (Oct 26, 2009)

Nice one Tel Thm:


Regards Rob


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## Artie (Oct 26, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Yep, there's a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel now ;D



A pessimist would say that that glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel is of course the headlamp of an oncoming train!

But myself, being something of an optimist would hope that said lamp was indeed propelled by a STEAM train.... if you have to go, at least go doing something you love......

I love your creation mate and I cant wait to be hypnotised by it turning over slowly on vid. In fact if I bring the red can I come over and watch it turn over in the flesh.. (I promise it will be a good red... or 2..)??


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## tel (Oct 26, 2009)

Any time mate, after all, you are only 5 hours or so away. Just bring a good compass so you can navigate the workshop!


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## tel (Oct 27, 2009)

Not many bits to go now. Today I started on the clevis ends for the valve spindles.

A rummage around turned up a bit of steel roughly 3/16" square. A bit of experimenting showed that it was a good fit in a 1/4" collet.





So I cut off a bit long enough for the two ends + about 3/8" for 'comfort', turned the ends down and drilled & tapped 6BA to suit the spindles.





And cross drilled 7BA tapping size, for the pins


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## Artie (Oct 27, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Any time mate, after all, you are only 5 hours or so away. Just bring a good compass so you can navigate the workshop!



 I have my Navman...man..... Mate I think I would truly enjoy meeting the Bathurst area 'Guru' .. that being Swami Tel....and viewing his work station, Ill tee up a date that suits both when next I drive to Sydney (short detour..).. ;D


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## tel (Oct 28, 2009)

No sweat mate, tho' I'm normally not here Mon Wed or Fri (tho the days can change according to the weather). At least with the s/c wood stove in the kitchen the billy's always on!

On with the show..


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## tel (Oct 28, 2009)

..... more work on the fiddly little buggers!

The pieces are cut from the parent stock at this stage





And mounted in a simple fixture, the cut is started





... and finished





Tidied up a bit with a file, these are the smallest components, excepting for some of the fasteners, on the engine.





And they go together thusly


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## tel (Oct 28, 2009)

So, where we are up to today. Just the steam chest covers, glands, and 12 studs to go, along with a couple of gaskets. Might not get back to it until the weekend tho'


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## Deanofid (Oct 28, 2009)

Sure is a good looking engine, Tel.

Dean


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## Bill Mc (Oct 29, 2009)

Hi Tel - On page 7, The second photo shows a fixture holding "the fiddly little buggers!" Could you show us a better view of this fixture. Perhaps the other side so that we can see how the fixture held the pieces (for us students). All you can see in that photo is the workpiece sticking out. - Billmc


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## tel (Oct 29, 2009)

I can try to get a pichurgraph for you tomorrow Bill, but in essence, all it is is a couple of inches of 3/4" square steel, with a 6BA clearance hole drilled through, then opened out to fit the round bit on the knuckle pieces - I went about a 1/4" deep, although the round sections were only a bit of 1/8". 

The procedure - insert workpiece in hole, square up with a small square held against the side of the block. Put a 6BA bolt and washer in from the back and tighten well down. Now bung the lot in the vise and get it standing truly vertical, set the slitting saw to height, and away you go!


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## tel (Oct 29, 2009)

You might make it out a bit better in this shot


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## Bill Mc (Oct 29, 2009)

Hi Tel - Thanks for the explanation for us dolts, speaking for myself, of course - Billmc


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## tel (Nov 1, 2009)

She lives!!!!
Pretty air hungry at the moment tho' - a bit more tweaking and running and it should settle down


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## Deanofid (Nov 1, 2009)

Video! Video!!


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## tel (Nov 1, 2009)

Uploading a bit now - pretty crummy, but at least it moves


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## tel (Nov 1, 2009)

See it 'ere - bring your own popcorn!

http://entertainment.webshots.com/video/3040589960105506259BYtVcs?vhost=entertainment


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## dsquire (Nov 1, 2009)

Very nice Tel. Glad to see it running for you. You have made a great job of the build. :bow: :bow:

Cheers 

Don


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## Artie (Nov 1, 2009)

Crummy my arxe! Thats brilliant mate.... to see it working must be just the best feeling... congrats and well done..... ;D


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## RobWilson (Nov 1, 2009)

GREAT ENGINE Tel :bow: :bow: :bow: VERY NICE 

Regards Rob


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## tel (Nov 1, 2009)

Thanks blokes, it wasn't without it's problems - took most of the day to troubleshoot, but at least it's going under it's own power now


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## joe d (Nov 1, 2009)

Tel

That came out really well. An interesting engine :bow: :bow:

Joe


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## cfellows (Nov 1, 2009)

Geat Engine, Tel. I really like the design and workmanship.

Chuck


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## kvom (Nov 1, 2009)

Superb!


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 1, 2009)

Wonderful tel.
Worth some closeup pictures (hint hint).


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## ozzie46 (Nov 1, 2009)

Nice one Tel.

 Ron


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 1, 2009)

Very nice Tel--Looks like it will be a fairly powerfull unit, considering that it is double acting.---Brian


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## JimN (Nov 1, 2009)

Very nice.


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## Lykle (Nov 1, 2009)

Hi Tel,

My compliments, I expect it will be a couple of years before I make something like that.
You said you had to troubleshoot a while. What kind of things did you need to adjust and why?

Love to learn even more, you see.
Lykle


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## arnoldb (Nov 1, 2009)

Very well done Tel :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## mcr (Nov 1, 2009)

YES YES YES


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## Deanofid (Nov 1, 2009)

Looks good running, Tel! 
Not to sound greedy, but I'd love to see a longer vid, with sound. 
I know... never satisfied.

Dean


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## ariz (Nov 2, 2009)

compliments for a very well done & running engine!!!


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## tel (Nov 2, 2009)

Thanks for your kind comments blokes!

Zee - I will try to shoot the zeequil in the next few days - watch this space

Lykle, I haven't forgotten your query, give me a day or two to sort out just what things had to be done to get it running properly.


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## tel (Nov 6, 2009)

Of course, according to my C.M.E. I don't actually build these engines - _he does_, I just hang around and hog all the credit!


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## vascon2196 (Nov 11, 2009)

I've been thinking about building that engine myself. The closest I cam was modeling it in SolidWorks.


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## m_kilde (Nov 11, 2009)

vascon2196  said:
			
		

> I've been thinking about building that engine myself. The closest I cam was modeling it in SolidWorks.




Funny vascon2196 

I'm very sure the engine you show, is my design











Mogens


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## Artie (Nov 11, 2009)

See what you've done now Tel?

Copyright infringrements all over the shop.... I can see this being slugged out in the international court of appeals....

 8)


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## Captain Jerry (Nov 11, 2009)

M_Kilde

Funny vascon2196
I'm very sure the engine you show, is my design

The model drawing and the engine that you show are indeed nice work but should not be compared with the work that Tel has done in this post. The similarity is obvious but it appears to be superficial at most in that it shows an inverted V two cyl engine however the differences in execution are too numerous to list.

Early in Tel's thread, he showed a photograph of the original engine that he was going to reproduce. To my eye, his reproduction is closer to the original than is yours and is an true work of originality that is beautifully done and well presented.

It is obvious that you have invested a great deal of time and energy in your version of this engine. Both the design and implementation are very nicely done and represent work that you can be proud of.

In my opinion, Tel did not use your design.

Jerry


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## Artie (Nov 11, 2009)

I dont think there was any insinuation that there is any design grabs on Tels part Capt. I think M_kilde is discussing Vascon pic and not Tels design. They are both clearly very different from Tels, as you point out.

Cheers

Rob


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## tel (Nov 11, 2009)

That was the impression I had as well. Certainly my work is all original, built from the pic of the prototype posted early in the thread and with a dose of imaginitis added. I think I also stated early, that there are at least 2 commercial (drawings and castings) models of the same general configuration but vastly different in construction.


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## Cedge (Nov 11, 2009)

Having watched this project progress and being familiar with the engine as a potential future project of my own, I can safely vouch for the fact that Tel's work is indeed derived from his own perspective of a historical and fairly well documented engine design. 

Now.... let's not go letting tempers flare up over this one. I don't want to have to lock up a thread this popular.

Steve


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## m_kilde (Nov 12, 2009)

Hi All

I'm affraid some of you got me wrong, the work of Tel is indeed his own, and a very good looking project, far more close in construction to the original engine than mine.

What , well lets say upset me a little, is that vascon2196 says he is constructing an engine in solid works that is actually my design.

I'm sorry my post could indicate that I should have any problem with Tel's work.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 12, 2009)

Let me get in here and stir the pot.---Vascon2196 said that he had MODELLED an engine in Solidworks. He did not imply that it was his original design. Nor did he imply that he was "constructing" the engine. I model many things in Solidworks that interest me, but that doesn't make them "My" design. True, if I DESIGN something on my own, and then model it, then it becomes "mine". However, many times I will model an engine that someone else has originally designed in order to fully understand how it works, and because I admire the design. To have your engine "modelled" by any 3D cad designer is one of the highest forms of flattery. It means that he found your engine so interesting that he wanted to model it to study how it worked and looked. I think we are discussing semantics here. To design something implies that you are the originator of that something. To model it means simply that.--You admired the DESIGN so you MODELLED it.----Gets kinda crazy, doesn't it.----Brian


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## m_kilde (Nov 12, 2009)

Hi Again

Ok I'm flattered - would prefer to the person behind a design, and not a cross old man


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## tel (Nov 12, 2009)

Onya Mogens - life's too short for 'cross'!

On another note, you might find this familiar - doing it in x 1.5 with a few of my usual modifications


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## m_kilde (Nov 12, 2009)

Hi Tel

Well I think I can recognize the engine 

Make sure you see this very nice version :

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4965.0


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## vascon2196 (Nov 16, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Let me get in here and stir the pot.---Vascon2196 said that he had MODELLED an engine in Solidworks. He did not imply that it was his original design. Nor did he imply that he was "constructing" the engine. I model many things in Solidworks that interest me, but that doesn't make them "My" design. True, if I DESIGN something on my own, and then model it, then it becomes "mine". However, many times I will model an engine that someone else has originally designed in order to fully understand how it works, and because I admire the design. To have your engine "modelled" by any 3D cad designer is one of the highest forms of flattery. It means that he found your engine so interesting that he wanted to model it to study how it worked and looked. I think we are discussing semantics here. To design something implies that you are the originator of that something. To model it means simply that.--You admired the DESIGN so you MODELLED it.----Gets kinda crazy, doesn't it.----Brian



Thank you Brian...I could not have said it better myself. All I did was model the engine (which I think was in Home Shop Machinist magazine) in Solid Works to watch it operate. I guess it's a hobby of mine....to find a cool and unique engine and model it and try to have it operate as the real engine would. Just recently did I begin to move from the 3D model to the actual manufacturing of the engine.

I have NO engines that are "my own design", they have all be done before but usually not in Solid Works.

Thanks again...you hit the nail right on the head.

Chris (vascon2196)


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