# My little book on building my engine



## Bogstandard (Nov 6, 2007)

Cedge (Steve) told me one time that I should note things down as I have a book inside of me. Little did he know that I had already done that, but on another site.
I have been trying to get my meagre offering onto here for a few months, but due to storage allowances could not be done. Then Rake60 (Rick) approached me and very kindly offered to host the files on his personal space.
I was told that I could make money out of this, but that goes against my morals, as feeble as they are. This is being put on here for the enjoyment of others, at no charge whatsoever.
Now that the preface is written, here goes.


Wanna make one of these!!







Or bling it up and turn it into this ------>







Do you think you are not experienced enough to make one, then read on.

The two engines above were made at the same time in parallel, with the shiny one taking a little bit longer. I designed and built them both as I went along, in just over 2 months. Not all my own work, I did have a bit of specialist input over the design from others on the website (a lot was ignored, but a few were taken on and incorporated into the engines).
I designed it to be made by a total beginner with a medium sized lathe and a vertical slide or small miller. You will find a lot of my hints and tips on here have come directly from this book, and there are a lot more in there.
This book was taken directly from my posts on Paddleducks website, edited by a very kind gentleman only known to me as Floyd (TFL45), to take out most of the 'garbage', and reposted as a downloadable series of 8 PDF files, these if you want to, can be printed out onto 113 pages.
Floyd did a wonderful job, all my 'fag packet' drawings are duplicated at the end in a much larger format, if you see a web page listed, if you click on it, it will take you to that page. A really nice piece of editing.
You will even get to meet my (now) world famous dog 'Bandit'.
Just a bit of info about when I posted it onto paddleducks.
Since I started the post in May 2007
There have been 240+ posts in the article and 7300+ hits, and it is still continuing, so I suspect that a few of these engines are now being built.

There is one major problem, everything is in metric, but the good side is that there is no wierd sizes, everything was designed to the nearest 1/2 millimetre.

So after all that verbal garbage, here are the links to the files.

http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Piston_Valve_Engine_01.pdf
http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Piston_Valve_Engine_02.pdf
http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Piston_Valve_Engine_03.pdf
http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Piston_Valve_Engine_04.pdf
http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Piston_Valve_Engine_05.pdf
http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Piston_Valve_Engine_06.pdf
http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Piston_Valve_Engine_07.pdf
http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Piston_Valve_Engine_08.pdf

If you haven't got a PDF reader, you can download for free a version of Acrobat Reader, just put a search into Google.
Just a little more, the text on the post at the beginning does ramble on a bit about safety etc, but it soon gets to the exciting bits of making things.
I made these engines for a few bucks apiece, if you had to make one from retail purchased materials, maybe $80 to $100, but you will end up with an engine that would cost you at least $1000 to buy commercially.

Enjoy

John


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## shred (Nov 6, 2007)

I already printed the book from Paddeducks (hint to anybody else: don't print all of it, it's huge).  The instructions are great. If I had a set of metric cutters and drills I'd be started already.


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## Bogstandard (Nov 6, 2007)

Shred,
I take your note on it being metric, but it was originally written for the UK 'market', where most people now are converting over to metric.
I will hopefully be doing another project like this next year, and for all my new found colonial friends I will 'do' it in imperial.
Got to keep the troops happy.

Worn out John


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## Capt Turk (Nov 6, 2007)

If you want to be able to open the PDF files quickly, get Foxit Reader.  It's also free and runs circles around that Adobe bloatware.

No connection with it.  Just a very pleasant discovery, and a happy user.

Capt. Turk


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## shred (Nov 6, 2007)

Bogstandard said:
			
		

> Shred,
> I take your note on it being metric, but it was originally written for the UK 'market', where most people now are converting over to metric.
> I will hopefully be doing another project like this next year, and for all my new found colonial friends I will 'do' it in imperial.
> Got to keep the troops happy.
> ...


Do one with similar quality instructions on a somewhat simpler-looking engine so as not to scare the newbies right off the bat and I think you'd have a runaway internet best-seller... or at least a few dozen downloads and a new engine builder or two out of it 

I vaguely remember somebody was drawing it up in CAD.  In that case it would be simple to convert the plans to imperial, but I was also considering how hard it would be to actually do it in pseudo-metric without acquiring another boatload of tooling.. my DROs and calipers can be switched over and I could probably find stock and drills that are close enough to not matter in most cases.  End mills might be a problem, as would threads and taps in tiny sizes, but probably manageable.


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## Bogstandard (Nov 6, 2007)

Hi Shred,
I gather that you have had a good look at the 'book'.
Was there anything in there that couldn't be tackled by a relative beginner with the right equipment?
The reason the book was born was someone said to me, could a complicated looking engine be built by a beginner if it was broken down into easy to follow step by step instructions, where in the beginning everything was do it this way and do it that way, then as they gained experience along the way it was then, just make this and just make that, but pointing out the pitfalls and ways around them. 
The exercise was to make a complicated 'looking' engine from the beginning. Where a beginner could look at the instructions and say, 'hey, this isn't as difficult as it looks', and 'now it has been explained, l could easily do that'.
The other design criteria was that this would be, when completed, a fully operational steam engine that can be used for powering a model boat, rather than a display engine.

It just might be just a clash of cultures, whereby in the UK, most modellers would want their engines to do work, whereas I have noticed that the US modellers, on the whole are quite happy to just have a model that runs for display purposes only, in which case 90% of this engine could be made of totally unsuitable materials for running on steam, and so would inherently be a lot easier to make.



> Do one with similar quality instructions on a somewhat simpler-looking engine



I would never do that. There are hundreds of that type of build out there, but very few where you can easily build a complicated engine.
I would prefer not to do it, rather than build another run of the mill, mundane, been done a thousand times before type of engine.

Surely Shred, you wouldn't want me to do something that I didn't enjoy doing :lol: 

Time for bed John


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## shred (Nov 6, 2007)

Bogstandard said:
			
		

> Hi Shred,
> I gather that you have had a good look at the 'book'.
> Was there anything in there that couldn't be tackled by a relative beginner with the right equipment?


Not that I remember.  The tricky bit is people look at it and think 'that's a whole lot of parts to make.. it'll take forever..' and go off looking for something with a little more immediate reward.


> The exercise was to make a complicated 'looking' engine from the beginning. Where a beginner could look at the instructions and say, 'hey, this isn't as difficult as it looks', and 'now it has been explained, l could easily do that'.


ok, in that case it succeeded very well.


> The other design criteria was that this would be, when completed, a fully operational steam engine that can be used for powering a model boat, rather than a display engine.
> 
> It just might be just a clash of cultures, whereby in the UK, most modellers would want their engines to do work, whereas I have noticed that the US modellers, on the whole are quite happy to just have a model that runs for display purposes only, in which case 90% of this engine could be made of totally unsuitable materials for running on steam, and so would inherently be a lot easier to make.


yeah, there's no steam culture, for lack of a better term, around here except for live-steam railways.  Locomotives get a pass.  I suspect it's got something to do with our romanticized history involving wild west trains versus the more nautical traditions over there.  The misconception that making your own boiler is only slightly less dangerous than wrestling live rattlesnakes doesn't help either.



> Do one with similar quality instructions on a somewhat simpler-looking engine





> I would never do that. There are hundreds of that type of build out there, but very few where you can easily build a complicated engine.
> I would prefer not to do it, rather than build another run of the mill, mundane, been done a thousand times before type of engine.
> 
> Surely Shred, you wouldn't want me to do something that I didn't enjoy doing :lol:
> ...


No point doing anything you don't want to :wink:, but actually there's a lot less of that about on the internet than I thought.  Simple oscillators abound, but past that there's not a lot that has the details a beginner might want, especially with the why you do something.  Perhaps I meant "just as complicated but with less parts to make ".  Books like Elmers Engines and such are available if you know where to look, but they rarely get into the 'why' of doing things, sticking with 'make this part.. then make this part, being careful to keep it smooth.. now put it all together..'

In the day and age of the internet, unless the information is easy to get, people will move on to the next thing and never find out how much fun it is to build little engines (which leads me to another pet-peeve-- people that answer project queries with things like "Read the article by Triplex in the Nov and Dec 1952 issues of HSMEWSM")-- it's complete, accurate and also completely useless to a big part of the audience)

Anyway.. now that I've typed well over my aliquot of free letters for the day, I'm going to 'have a go' at building one not too long from now and let you know how a near-novice makes out.

- Roy


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## Bogstandard (Nov 7, 2007)

Shred,
Many thanks for your honesty in your replies.
It is nice to get a good discussion going without having to go into all the very technical jargon, and I do respect your views and comments in what you have said. 
This is what a forum is all about. It shouldn't be all a^se kissing and brown nosing, but views where a person can express their values and be respected for it.
Well done.
My next design will be dedicated to you.
I hope it will meet with your exacting criteria.


John


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## 1Kenny (Nov 7, 2007)

Thanks for posting your book John. Also thank you for hosting it Rake. 

It took about 8 minutes for me to down load everything, not bad, but I do have the full blown Adobe software and high speed net.

After reading every page, I think one could just use imperial taps and screws the way it is written by looking at a conversion chart and finding the closest size tap and screws. It would be the same as on the Elmers' drawings of changing fractions to thousands. I like the detail you went into on the crankshaft and (if it is ok with you) would like the use that design on my current engines as it would be easier for me to make the crankshafts that way. There is alot of things that could be applied to any engine.

There is one paragraph that was repeated, but you have to read the book to know where its at. :lol:  

Again, thank you John for taking the effort and time.

Kenny


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## Bogstandard (Nov 7, 2007)

Julian,
I appreciate all you have said, I used to do multiple builds, but now the single brain cell is starting to get a bit lacklustre and tired I try to make one at a time and complete it fully before carrying on to the next job. But it is very frustrating sometimes waiting to get onto the next project.
You have also put me into a bit of a sticky situation, I have yourself wanting metric, and Shred wanting imperial. Maybe I should invent a new system somewhere in between.

Kenny,
The book is there to be used, please use any of the methods you find in it in any way you can. I have put it into the public domain for just such a reason. The idea about the crankshafts isn't mine by the way, but it is such an easy way to make a low torque multi throw crankshaft, it automatically aligns itself if you are careful with the machining, I just borrowed the idea and modified it to suit my requirements.
There is very little new in engineering, just old techniques being rediscovered and modified for new applications.

John


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## Bogstandard (Nov 7, 2007)

Kenny, 
Forgot to tell you about the cranks using the design in the book.
The third little hole is essential in that it allows the other two holes to collapse down and grip the rods. You might be better going for the second easier option shown, unless of course you like the balanced crank look. Hole sizes are not critical, they can be any size, as this method grips both rods the same no matter what size, but they do need to be fairly close tolerance, 10 thou oversize might be pushing it a bit, but if you make the small distortion hole larger it should allow a little more of a collapse.

John & Bandit the Brain


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## rake60 (Nov 7, 2007)

I think this book of John's is very well done!

And, I was one who suggested he wave under the nose of a publisher.  :wink: 
I do very much appreciate his morals in making it a free public offering
instead. I'm very please to be able to host it.
Very good stuff!

Thank You John for sharing it here!

Rick


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## shred (Nov 7, 2007)

I was researching around metric-inch conversions and found a couple interesting ideas. Redefining the mm as 1/32", (so for example 5mm becomes 5/32") you end up scaling things down about 20%, but the tools and math become much simpler. As long as the small metric parts doen't end up too small, scaling could work.

But, not particularly liking fractional inches either, the major problem seems to be limited to making smaller metric-size holes-- drilling and reaming in metric sizes can't be done easily with a calculator and inch-size tools.  So long as a design doesn't have a lot of that or had workable fractional-inch-size equivalents, it seems like it would work in either system.


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## Bogstandard (Nov 8, 2007)

Shred,
The easy scaling method is the 40 thou rule. 1mm equals 40 thou, so 0.1mm = 4 thou, 0.01mm = approx 1/2 thou

or

1mm = 0.040"
0.1mm = 0.004"
0.01mm = 0.0004"

So 12.5mm would be 0.5"  (12.5 x 0.040" = 0.5")

It is v-e-r-y slightly out but in this situation it is more than close enough.
I use this calculation all the time in my head while working, as my machines are all imperial, and after a time it comes naturally, think 2.5mm times 40 = 100 thou or 9mm = 360 thou.

Hope this hasn't confused anyone too much, but this is definitely the easiest solution for metric to imperial conversion when doing it on the run.

With regards to using nearest equivalents as in cutters etc. If you wanted to ream the bore, instead of 10mm you would use 3/8" and make everything related to the bore 3/8" instead of 10mm.

I don't know if it is available in the US, but our pocket bible is called a ZEUS book, everyone who is into making things has one by him all the time, I think it is shown in my 'book'.


John


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## mklotz (Nov 8, 2007)

I consider a scientific calculator to be the second most important tool in the shop (after the micrometer).  Many today have built-in metric/Imperial conversions or you can simply store 25.4 in one of the memories and recall it as needed.

Nevertheless, it's a good idea to learn a few mental conversion tricks for those situations where the calculator is not to hand.  John's approximation of 1 mm ~= 0.040" is one of those.

Here's another one.  If you have a fractional inch dimension, keep doubling the numerator and denominator until the denominator is 256 (which is happily very close to 254).  Then the dimension in mm is the numerator divided by 10.

Example: 17/32" = ? mm

17/32 = 34/64 = 68/128 = 136/256
136/10 = 13.6 mm  (the correct value is 13.49 mm)

The error in this approximation is 0.78%.


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## Bohrwerk (Dec 1, 2007)

Hello, Master!
Oh yeah, i must say that word! What a wonderfull Maschine and a very great Work of Documentation!I am German and my Language is not so pretty but i must say :the Pictures and all what i see and understand is going direkt in my Heart! Perfect!!!

Thanks a lot for a great Pleasure from Bohrwerk (Eckhard) in Germany


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## Bogstandard (Dec 1, 2007)

Bohrwerk,
No masters on here, only members, everyone justs helps each other.
Glad you enjoyed my little engine book.

John


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## Canyonman (Dec 2, 2007)

Hi All,

IMHO, THE beginner engine is the Double Scotch. 

I found oscillators not to my minds eye because I could never picture one running a piece of equipment. Although I'm sure it was probably done, I've just never seen it.

The design is almost foolproof and will run in most any "quality" of build. From "Drill Bit" tolerances and smoothness, to Lathe and reamer. Smoothing things off, fitting things more accurately only serves to make the little bugger run faster!

Now to bring it to the discussion, How might one suggest to add "Bling" to that design? I have always wanted to put a flyball governor on top.

I will be downloading the book in just a moment, so maybe I have spoken out of turn.

Regards,  Ken


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## mogogear (Aug 18, 2008)

An old topic- "as the warning indicated" But I printed off the entire book all 8 chapters, printed front and back- color- and bound in a nice 3 ring binder...

 :bow:

WOW John and all that made this possible... _ became familiar with this engine through Mooseman that now has one of these in his steam launch.. He has done much chuffing on how well it performs ! I have been reading this book for two days...I aspire to one day feel good enough to attempt it and at least make respectable headway- if for no other cause show other newbies that it is not impossible... Maybe I should just go for the Oscillator..it seems a little simpler.. but the instructions are not as complete as the book( I think John referred to the French plans he had cleaned up to make it..I have printed those plans up .. but I am a step by step guy these days...

At least that is what I keep telling myself..Take one step at a time. Try not to digest the whole of Christmas dinner in one bite... learning basic fundamental technique is my learning curve for the near future.. an engine... a ways off.. but I have my book!! 


Ok- time to go chuck up something and make different chips..

Thanks again Bog!!


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## Bogstandard (Aug 18, 2008)

Mo,

Even if you never make it, just reading thru it will give you a load of tips, especially if you are on a budget and can't afford expensive tooling.

Mooseman has been in contact to tell me how pleased he is with the oscillator. It seems that everyone who obtained one can't believe how powerful they are for the size. I must make a few more.

Just enjoy what you are doing.

John


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## Bernd (Aug 18, 2008)

Just to add a bit more joy to your day Bog's. I just got back from a weeks vacation. Figuring it would rain at least a few times I decided to take your build manual mentioned above with me. As it turned out it rained at least a couple of hours each day so I got to read the complete manual. I found it a great write with well detailed explanation of how to do everything and a sense of humor. Excellent write on a twin piston steam engine.

Now, having a place on a river one needs a model steam boat since the 1000 Islands area grew up on steam powered launches. The only question will be "when" will this engine be built. A couple of minor questions would be "what size boiler and what size boat?" I'm sure you can give me a bit of a hint on that, right? 

Also I've seen several mentions of a wobbler steam engine. Can you point me in the general direction of were I might find this info? Thanks.

Regards,
Bernd


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## Kludge (Aug 18, 2008)

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> It just might be just a clash of cultures, whereby in the UK, most modellers would want their engines to do work, whereas I have noticed that the US modellers, on the whole are quite happy to just have a model that runs for display purposes only, in which case 90% of this engine could be made of totally unsuitable materials for running on steam, and so would inherently be a lot easier to make.



Steam power pretty much originated in the UK and there is a far longer tradition of using it to advantage there. This is reflected in the models where making them work is incidental to making them actually do something. We didn't invent steam engines in the US - they initially came from England - and, as Shred (I think) noted, we kind of got stuck on railroads and ignored pretty much everything else even though steam was all around us.

On the other hand, when I first moved to Pittsburgh, PA, steam was still quite active on the railroads and on the rivers, the latter pushing loads of coal and other materials to the various steel mills. There were still steam shovels around and more than a few steam donkey engines afoot. Outside the city some of the older oil wells were still using steam engines that burned crude oil and got water from a well or other handy source. 

Of the riverboats, some turned screws, some turned split stern wheels and a very few had sidewheels ... maneuverable but not really a Good Thing if a barge got loose. There were also a couple showboats (repurposed packets) operating that used steam - I think until one of them blew up. The rest either converted to Diesel or went out of business. (Actually, they all went out of business eventually.)

The non-steam versions go to Noelle for safety reasons, hers and her dog's - 4-legged furry curiosity, playfulness and mischief who's all of 6.5 pounds fully grown. It's far safer for her to turn on a compressor or flick a switch for the electric ones than to fire up a boiler. Further, the engines themselves are being built to provide a degree of entertainment themselves due to a somewhat Rube Goldbergian approach to the designs but they can also be used to couple to other things for even more entertainment. Their purpose is to help take her mind off her illnesses and give her reason to smile, even if for just a little while.

For my own steam-type engines, I want to go back to what I remember - live steam. Many will be freelance rather than strict models and will be a bit whimsical in a number of ways but a few will be made from memory (granted, 50 year old memories) of some of the equipment from back then. The most interesting ones were the oil wells since each one was unique ... in more than a few ways. I'm thoroughly convinced some were designed/built by people who had put a bit too much Jamesons in their coffee - or just skipped the coffee part entirely. 

I've thought about a model steam launch or paddle wheeler but the ocean would be fairly unforgiving about anything I could build in my apartment, and I'm not equipped to make anything large enough to power something that would survive. Something will come to mind, though. 

Of course, a number of my alternate history electric engines are based on steam engine design but that's a separate issue.

Best regards,

Kludge


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## Brass_Machine (Aug 18, 2008)

Bernd  said:
			
		

> ...
> Also I've seen several mentions of a wobbler steam engine. Can you point me in the general direction of were I might find this info? Thanks.
> 
> Regards,
> Bernd



Hey Bernd... LMS has free plans for a wobbler HERE. It is also called an oscillating engine. There are a couple of versions in Elmer's book. You can find those Here

Eric


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## Bernd (Aug 19, 2008)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> Hey Bernd... LMS has free plans for a wobbler HERE. It is also called an oscillating engine. There are a couple of versions in Elmer's book. You can find those Here
> 
> Eric



Thanks for the links Eric. I have Elmers book. I also have a 1979 Live Steam mag with Jan Gunarrosn(SP?) 4 cylinder oscillator that I think I might build for a boat engine. 
The only reason I asked about the wobbler was that it had been mentioned along with Bog's name. Sounded to me like he designed one for boat use. Knowing his humorous writting style from his engine built from "junk" I thought this one would be nice to add to my collection.

Regards,
Bernd


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## Bogstandard (Aug 19, 2008)

Bernd,

I never did a write up about the oscillator.

The twin junk engine is in fact fairly frugal with the use of steam, and Sandy's boiler, in the downloads section would be ideal. Because of the long stroke, it will turn a good sized prop, say 3" to 4" 45degree steam prop. So a boat of over 4ft and up to 5ft should be ideal. The little oscillator is in fact just as powerful and will easily power a boat of the same size.

I make the oscillators for keeping the workshop going during hard times. So maybe, because I am now broke, I will be making another batch. I will catalogue it as I do it, if there is an interest. But it will not be pretty, as I will use the best resources available to myself (time and costs come into it). So it might not be the same sort of build you are used to seeing.

John


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## Bernd (Aug 19, 2008)

Actually John, I wasn't thinking of a boat to ride in but a model boat. Didn't realize that your engine could power a 4 foot boat. 

I like your write up on that oscillator. Looked like a nice project. Ran very nicely too. I think I have those plans some were on my disk, for the oscillator. But a write up from you going through the build process would be nice. So I'll put one vote in for another Bogstandard build manual. ;D (when you get the time of course)

Regards,
Bernd


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## Bogstandard (Aug 19, 2008)

Bernd,

These are pictures of one of my customers boats, showing one of the little oscillators installed. This boat is well over 4ft maybe towards 5ft long.

John


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## Bernd (Aug 19, 2008)

Only one word to describe those pics. "BEAUTIFUL"

Thanks Bog's

Bernd


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## mklotz (Aug 19, 2008)

John,

Do those beautiful launches incorporate a boiler feed pump? If so, how is it driven?
If not, how do they avoid running with a dry boiler?


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## Kludge (Aug 19, 2008)

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> These are pictures of one of my customers boats, showing one of the little oscillators installed. This boat is well over 4ft maybe towards 5ft long.



Maybe on the lanai ... yeah, possibly it might have enough room to build something cool. Need a bit more freeboard, though. And I'd have to watch out for dolphins; they tend to think things in the ocean are theirs to play with. 

That is a beautiful model, John. She looks tight and able, to be sure.

I'd also be interested in seeing how you put the wobbler together. For as simple as they are, there is a lot that can be done with them to make them interesting. 

Best regards,

Kludge


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## Bogstandard (Aug 19, 2008)

Marv,

Some do, some don't. 

Most that have them run from a small eccentric on the end of the crankshaft, and are like a mini oscillator, but because they are driven, they can be used for pumping water, or if you use the oscillator in a submarine and driven by electric motors, they can be used to pump air in/out of floatation tanks.
The boilers and engines I used to make would easily run for 45 minutes without water top up, so it seemed a waste of time to run any longer, as after that time or before, you have had enough and need a concentration break (fag & coffee), then go sail again after refreshed. You will also find that if made properly, the gas tank would run out well before the boiler was near empty.

Some of the more expensive and larger home made ones were made with fairly complicated pump systems, but as I said, not really needed.

In fact, the boat shown was originally fitted with a 'Cheddar Proteus' engine, but because of all the difficulties encountered trying to run it in a boat (OK as a display or on a bench) he asked if one of mine would do a better job. He just dropped the engine into the hole made by the Proteus engine, and ran it off the original boiler. I wasn't surprised when he said he was over the moon with it (at a 1/4 of the cost).

John


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## Bogstandard (Aug 19, 2008)

It seems that a few people are interested in something a little more complicated than the standard single cylinder, single acting wobblers.

I have mentioned this site before, and if you don't mind working in metric, here are a few plans you can download for free. Knowing a bit of French helps, but not totally needed, because there are plenty of pictures.

http://jpduval.free.fr/Plans_moteurs_vapeur_p1.htm

The one I based my commercial one on is bottom left, just click on the pictures and the plans appear. I do make a few major changes to make it easier to produce and run better.
The attached picture is how mine turns out.

Bogs


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## mogogear (Aug 19, 2008)

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> Mo,
> 
> Even if you never make it, just reading thru it will give you a load of tips, especially if you are on a budget and can't afford expensive tooling.
> 
> ...



I am enjoying the easy worded advice here on the forum.. and would take my shot at building an engine, but I will take my spot at the back of the line if you do build a few more- But I would always love to have one from your hands...So when you do... Consider this an RSVP... $ ready..Thanks John

Cheers


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## paulnb57 (Oct 3, 2008)

Hi from a UK newbie to the site!
Just downloaded and printed the "little book" - fantastic!!
Im already part way through a steam engine build having been gifted an old Atlas 10f lathe, its 26 years ago that I finished my fitter turner horizontal borer apprenticeship and was then made redundant, never to machine again, or so I thought(!!) and the old skills are coming back. 
I'd like to think I will follow the destructions and build this engine - but if not there is a wealth of hints and tips in the "book"
Thanks again for the effort and making it public - I am well impressed - hell we even have a similar sense of humour. Right, cup o tea and a fag - thanks again!
Paul


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## baldrocker (Oct 3, 2008)

Bogstandard.
I am not often lost for words but I'll
havago
Some have the ability to inspire newbies, beginners,
all thumbed, stretch their faith in their own abilities
and go just that little further.
You Sir have it in spades.
Paul
PS. Humour + instruction the holy grail
of teachers.


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## Paolo (Oct 4, 2008)

John thanks for posting your book is a real practice manual clear and effective!!!. Also thank you for hosting it Rake. I really appreciate !!!! :bow: :bow: :bow:
Paolo


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## hotrod45 (Jun 26, 2009)

Does anyone have the PDF's for building the engine. When I click on the link I only get an ad for Rake.60. If they are available please advise. I would really appreciate them.

Thanks 

Derek


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## Bernd (Jun 26, 2009)

hotrod45  said:
			
		

> Does anyone have the PDF's for building the engine. When I click on the link I only get an ad for Rake.60. If they are available please advise. I would really appreciate them.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Derek



Derek,

Try here http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5097.msg52394#msg52394

Regards,
Bernd


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## smokey (Jul 27, 2009)

Hi Members

Can someone advise as to how to download My little book on building my engine, i have tried to do this by using the links but get a notice that they are not PDF files or are corrupted so i could not download the PDF files, any help would be appreciated.


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## shred (Jul 27, 2009)

smokey  said:
			
		

> Hi Members
> 
> Can someone advise as to how to download My little book on building my engine, i have tried to do this by using the links but get a notice that they are not PDF files or are corrupted so i could not download the PDF files, any help would be appreciated.


I just went to the Rapidshare site listed in the link by Bernd and it seemed to download ok. I think that's Bogs' 'official' distribution site at the moment.


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## Blogwitch (Jul 27, 2009)

Just in case people don't pick up on previous posts.

Click on this link.

[ame]http://rapidshare.com/files/237810349/Self_Extracting_Piston_valve_engine_book.exe[/ame]

It should take you to a download page.

If you haven't got a Rapidshare account, just click on 'free user' and after a short wait, up to a minute, you will be able to download the file.

It is a self extracting archive, so if you can, download it onto your desktop. When it is down, just double click on it, and all the files you want will automatically be put into a new folder onto your desktop, as if by magic.

You can then either delete the original downloaded file, or pick it up and place elsewhere, and save it for a rainy day.

The files are in PDF format, so you will need Adobe Reader on your computer to see them. But don't worry, put out a Google search for Abobe Reader, and you can usually find a free version to download and use.

Enjoy the read.

Blogs


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## smokey (Jul 27, 2009)

Many thanks Shred and Blogwich, i have finaly downloaded it and looking forward to a good read.

once again many thanks for a rapid reply.

Regards. Theo.


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## fla Jim (Aug 6, 2009)

Thank you so much Shred and Blogwich. I've downloaded the plans. They are on my "eternal to do list.

Thanks again 

Jim


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## Kermit (Aug 7, 2009)

I had trouble getting the download to complete. Tried it during 'off' hours, when there is less local internet traffic (4 am) and it completed in just under 4 minutes.

Thanks,
Kermit


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