# Stuart Triple new build



## Emers (Nov 24, 2021)

Hi Everyone
I am starting this thread to show the progress of my Stuart Triple Expansion engine build.
I am a semi retired machinist 71 yrs old still working part time I have been self employed for the last 31 years doing mainly jobbing work on the equipment I have a cnc toolroom lathe, american controller ProtoTrak a great machine and a Chinese Bridgeport  copy which I have converted to 4 axis cnc with help from an electrical engineer friend who I helped build a small helicopter so he did all the electrical work on the mill. I am using Mach3 great for what I do. The Stuart has been started I have machined the base and will work up from there.
I am just starting my Stuart Triple it is a daunting task.  I have built 3 steam models over the last 3years I get to run them on steam every month at our model club. I have put my efforts on YouTube emers steam models have a look and let me know your thoughts. I would like peoples comment as my build progresses. I have attached some pics of my progress to date.


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## oldengineguy (Nov 25, 2021)

John:  Thanks for the post on this forum. You have some impressive machinery and history. I have all manual knobs and levers and only have X&Y axis DRO on the mill.  Auto mechanic by trade ,no machine shop training, all self taught, just a life long( 75 yr) interest in engines &machinery.  Didn't get eccentrics finished to-day  darned paying job got in the way, will finish tomorrow I hope. Colin


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## Emers (Nov 25, 2021)

Hi Colin
I know the feeling. I too, still do some paying work it pays for the hobby. What are you building at this moment. 
I am self taught with regards all things cnc my younger brother is a great toolmaker who is great on cnc machining so he is my help desk.
Cheers
emers (John)


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## dnalot (Nov 25, 2021)

I like your style. Some people make a part and rush off to the next part before completing the first part. Yours is fully detailed and even painted. Looks like your a ground up builder. I generally start with the part I may not be able to make. I figure if I can't make it why go on. So far that hasn't happened.

I have a long winter ahead so entertain me with this build. 

Mark T


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## Emers (Nov 26, 2021)

Hi Mark
Yes ground up seemed the way to go. I roughed the base leaving a small amount to get to final size painted the base (pressure pack green) then made the steel base so I could hold it easily on the mill to then finish machine to size all the sections which did not need paint on them. this worked great.


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## Emers (Nov 26, 2021)

Today I made and finished the main bearings. To get them as accurate and inline as best I could I machined all exterior sizes before I drilled & reamed the main crank holes. I made the keeps to secure the bearings, oil cups tomorrow. I made a small fixture to accurately position the bearings so they would be kept in line as this is absolutely the most important thing to get right at this stage. Next major thing will be the crankshaft I have purchased some 1144 stress proof steel from the USA as I could not source it in Australia. A very complicated part I have checked several posts on how to attack it will see how I progress over the next couple of weeks


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## oldengineguy (Nov 26, 2021)

Emers  That 's the way I started on my triple. It was a partial kit started by a guy 40 + years ago  many parts lost many parts poorly made. I got drawings & fittings from Stuart, Later into the build I got  HP cyl and water pump. There were no cast counter weights for the crank so I made webs from cold rolled 1018 milled to a "proper" looking shape ,shafts are 0-1 tool steel pressed up and pinned, seems to work OK. The sole plate was badly machined so had to make oversize   bearing blocks from 660 bronze to suit . Holes for standards were slightly off centre so  they were opened up to larger size in correct location with end mill and standards made to suit .In hindsight  this engine has taken much longer to build  than if I'd bought the kit in the first place. By the way "paying work" is 1967 Triumph  GT6 engine overhaul .Colin


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## kvom (Nov 26, 2021)

A premature notice, but a builder posted vids of his triples running on air on the MEM website.  While many builders seem to have trouble getting these to run on air, he did a simple mod of putting a pair of very light springs on the valve nuts to keep the valves pressed against ports.  He also used a fine thread on the valve rods to get precise adjustment of lead/lap.


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## sniffipn (Nov 27, 2021)

the split line on the bearing is interesting. 
how did you do that please? 
what are the benefits?


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## Mechanicboy (Nov 27, 2021)

kvom said:


> A premature notice, but a builder posted vids of his triples running on air on the MEM website.  While many builders seem to have trouble getting these to run on air, he did a simple mod of putting a pair of very light springs on the valve nuts to keep the valves pressed against ports.  He also used a fine thread on the valve rods to get precise adjustment of lead/lap.



"he did a simple mod of putting a pair of very light springs on the valve nuts to keep the valves pressed against port" --> No need to change the steam engine..

To running test for each cylinder: Remove the two connecting rod to other cylinder who is not in use (due less load caused by friction), the cylinder who is under test/adjusting timing must have connecting rod to run the steam engine. Also you are adjusting/running the triple steam engine as if it were "one cylinder steam engine".

After each cylinder has correct timing and running test for each cylinder is done, mount all connecting rod and the two manifolds on place and the triple steam engine is ready to run.  

Here are a ton of good tips in this link.. Stuart Triple Expansion Engine

Here is my triple expansion steam engine running at airpressure.


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## Emers (Nov 27, 2021)

Hi sniffipn
I do the step in the bearings so if they are ever separated they go back together and keep the same alignment. each bearing is numbered on each half and goes into the same position on the base so they can be removed and replaced each time. They are machined using the fixture shown above so they are kept exactly in the same alignment. The split line is done first then the outside sizes finished then using the fixture the holes are drilled & reamed.
Someone has mentioned running on air I will initially try running on air but intend to run on steam when finished. I am a member of the Sydney Society of Model Engineers we have open days each month where I run on steam. Our open days have been restricted due to covid but should return after Xmas for the general public to again attend.


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## Mechanicboy (Nov 27, 2021)

Emers said:


> Someone has mentioned running on air I will initially try running on air but intend to run on steam when finished.



Emers..

When I adjusted the timing of my triple expansion steam engine one for each cylinder with 2 cylinders disengaged (two connecting rod not on crankshaft) and test drive in both directions in rotation with one cylinder during test then I had to use compressed air for practical reason: Do not burn on fingers of the hot steam machine and it takes time to fire up the boiler every time. It saves a lot of time and convenient.

I have not yet obtained the boiler suitable for the triple expansion steam engine.


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## Jeffro (Nov 27, 2021)

Hello Emers
Just curious if a problem with the kit supplied crankshaft.
As in post #6
Next major thing will be the crankshaft I have purchased some 1144 stress proof steel from the USA as I could not source it in Australia.

You should be able to make good progress in a dry shop with weather like this ( a hint of rain, floods ?) .

Cheers
Peter


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## Emers (Nov 27, 2021)

Hi Peter
There is no crankshaft supplied with this kit it needs to be fabricated totally by me.


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## Emers (Nov 28, 2021)

Yesterday I made 4 oil cups for the soleplate ( base) they look OK. Next the crank shaft


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## Jeffro (Nov 29, 2021)

Nice. I look forward to this engines progress. The last crankshaft I cut came out of the heart of a piece of steel from a excavator link. Very subtle.


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## Jeffro (Nov 29, 2021)

sorry, I don't know why this posted.


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## Hopsteiner (Nov 29, 2021)

Nicely done. Always very satisfying, taking a piece of scrape and turning it into something beautifu.


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## Alec Ryals (Nov 29, 2021)

Mechanicboy said:


> "he did a simple mod of putting a pair of very light springs on the valve nuts to keep the valves pressed against port" --> No need to change the steam engine..
> 
> To running test for each cylinder: Remove the two connecting rod to other cylinder who is not in use (due less load caused by friction), the cylinder who is under test/adjusting timing must have connecting rod to run the steam engine. Also you are adjusting/running the triple steam engine as if it were "one cylinder steam engine".
> 
> ...



The main wear on steam engines is the valve steam pressure keeps the valve against the valve port   no need for springs


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## olympic (Nov 30, 2021)

Hopsteiner said:


> Nicely done. Always very satisfying, taking a piece of scrape and turning it into something beautifu.


Unfortunately, no matter how hard I try I tend to do the reverse.


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## Charles Lamont (Nov 30, 2021)

Alec Ryals said:


> The main wear on steam engines is the valve steam pressure keeps the valve against the valve port   no need for springs


Under load, no. But if you get close to a (full size) compound traction engine on slow tick-over you will probably hear a regular clonk as the low pressure valve alternately lifts off the portface an slaps back on. I think those tiny springs in the valve nuts are a clever idea.


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## Alec Ryals (Dec 1, 2021)

Mechanicboy said:


> "he did a simple mod of putting a pair of very light springs on the valve nuts to keep the valves pressed against port" --> No need to change the steam engine..
> 
> To running test for each cylinder: Remove the two connecting rod to other cylinder who is not in use (due less load caused by friction), the cylinder who is under test/adjusting timing must have connecting rod to run the steam engine. Also you are adjusting/running the triple steam engine as if it were "one cylinder steam engine".
> 
> ...



Nice engine i built one also Tricky timing lol


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## Emers (Jan 29, 2022)

My Crankshaft
It has been an interesting journey.
I started by purchasing some 1144 steel from the USA. It was recommended by several people on this site. My approach was to put centres in the ends and turn between centres. This did not work out very well. I turned it oversize on all the journal's but i had problems with it not running true. I feel it was internal stresses being released. I could not get it to a point where I could get the journals to clean up to be usable so I decide to build a Crank by the build up process.


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## Emers (Jan 29, 2022)

My 2nd attempt at building a crank was to use some 3/8 dia silver steel it is  ground bar. I  measured several lengths at my supplier and found some which measured .3748". When producing the webs for the crank I used a 9.5 mm ( .374" ) reamer which gave me an interference fit of about .0003" after a light polish of the silver steel rod . This worked out well. I made a little fixture to press the pins together and keep them aligned. Next I will machine and fit the counterweights for the crank.


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## Emers (Feb 7, 2022)

Hi Again
I have progressed slightly. I machined the counterweights and fitted them to the crank. when assembling things I realised 2 of the main bearings had a bit too much clearance about .0035" so I closed them up .005" and reamed them to the correct size. this resulted in having to use .002" shims top and bottom of the bearings to keep them all in alignment, this has worked great. The drawing calls for 7BA studs riveted through the counterweights to fasten them together I did not like that idea so I drilled and tapped the crank 2mm as I had some SHCS in stainless so they can be removed and painted later.
I also machined the disc wheel today a straight forward machining job, to get a good fit to the crank which now measures .374" I bore about .002" undersize and using an adjustable reamer held in the lathe running at 150 RPM and slowly bring the hole to size using some kerosene as a lubricant this works great, just make very small adjustments and I have gauge pins to check as I increase the hole to size.


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## Richard Hed (Feb 7, 2022)

Emers said:


> Hi Again
> I have progressed slightly. I machined the counterweights and fitted them to the crank. when assembling things I realised 2 of the main bearings had a bit too much clearance about .0035" so I closed them up .005" and reamed them to the correct size. this resulted in having to use .002" shims top and bottom of the bearings to keep them all in alignment, this has worked great. The drawing calls for 7BA studs riveted through the counterweights to fasten them together I did not like that idea so I drilled and tapped the crank 2mm as I had some SHCS in stainless so they can be removed and painted later.
> I also machined the disc wheel today a straight forward machining job, to get a good fit to the crank which now measures .374" I bore about .002" undersize and using an adjustable reamer held in the lathe running at 150 RPM and slowly bring the hole to size using some kerosene as a lubricant this works great, just make very small adjustments and I have gauge pins to check as I increase the hole to size.View attachment 133844
> View attachment 133845


It never ceases to amaze me how beautiful great work is.


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## Emers (Feb 7, 2022)

Thanks for the complement. I try to do things correctly as per the drawings


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## Richard Hed (Feb 7, 2022)

Emers said:


> Thanks for the complement. I try to do things correctly as per the drawings


I try too, but not always successful.


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## Emers (Mar 19, 2022)

Continuing my build.
I have made the eccentrics they posed some concern on how to tackle I started by holding by the extra material on the casting and put a 3/8 hole first and turned the .500 x 3/16 shoulder Then I made 2 fixtures to mill and turn the offset part.









The fixtures were made so they could be used in the mill (The flat to get aligned ) and the lathe. the holes are positioned so when the part is clamped the offsets are in the correct position, It is fixed through the bore of casting. It was a bit tricky but they came out great.
The centre eccentric which is split in half to attach to the crank was made by getting some cast iron from my supplier and machined into two rectangles (easier to hold in the mill) centre hole machined then drilled and tapped to clamp together then  put on a mandrel in the lathe to turn .500 x 3/16 boss. Then I could use the fixture to mill the offset sections






This completed these pieces the onto the eccentric straps.
My description here is not great but I hope people get an idea of how I am making these parts.


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## Emers (Mar 19, 2022)

Now for the eccentric straps. More fixtures.







Used the fixture for the eccentrics to bring to thickness then split them and drilled & tapped to hold together.






Fixture to turn






This is an alignment piece it allows me to get the parting line and the part centred







One half positioned








Then clamped






Alignment piece removed 






2nd half screwed to the piece clamped 






Clamped






In lathe and machined







Finished turning. I have several short videos but they say they are too large a file so will have to work on that.


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## sniffipn (Mar 19, 2022)

to minimise editing time, could the videos be posted on youtube - and a link posted in this thread?


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## Emers (Mar 19, 2022)

Yes just checked this idea out I will post the videos on YouTube and post the link.
Thanks


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## sniffipn (Mar 19, 2022)

as a hobby machinist, inspiring and helpful to see the use of fixtures. the more so with a triple where several of same part to be machined. thanks


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## Emers (Mar 19, 2022)

Have uploaded 2 short videos machining the eccentric straps


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## Alec Ryals (Mar 19, 2022)

Emers said:


> Have uploaded 2 short videos machining the eccentric straps



nice  setup i used a 4 jaw


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## Emers (Mar 19, 2022)

Hi Alex
My 3 jaw is adjustable a Pratt Bernard Grip True my fixture is machined concentric with the OD running true so when I put any work in the 3 jaw I check the OD is true and I know the piece to be bored is perfectly running true. Great for setting jobbing work running perfect I mean within a couple of .0001"have used them for over 25 years. Very rarely use 4 jaw except where job requires to be held very tight


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## Emers (May 24, 2022)

Hi Everyone
I have progressed since my last post. I have made several extra pieces the eccentric straps were completed and fitted to the crankshaft.





Next  made the eccentric rods and the expansion links and the columns. Assembled to base.




More to follow


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## Charles Lamont (May 24, 2022)

Alec Ryals said:


> The main wear on steam engines is the valve steam pressure keeps the valve against the valve port  no need for springs



No. On a compound or triple, running at low pressure on air or steam, it does not.


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## Emers (May 25, 2022)

Back Again
Have made the next part the Reverse Shraft Bracket. Once again simple fixture to hold the casting after machining thickness and drilling some holes then into the fixture to machine the outside profile I have uploaded a 30 sec video to you tube to give an idea of the process I used.
The link      20220324 Reverse Shaft Bracket 
And a photo of the up to date progress


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## Emers (Jun 3, 2022)

Hi Again
Next parts the drag links 6 off required pretty straight forward to make I used key steel and some simple fixture.


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## Emers (Jun 3, 2022)

More progress
Now for what I consider the hardest part on this model. The reversing screw the drawing calls for 3/16 20TPI 2 start thread. I gave this plenty of thought and decided I would make this by making a tap to produce the nut then screw cut the thread on the shaft using the nut as a gauge. Checking my history I decided to make the thread stub acme as acme threads came into use about the 1890's and as I do not know exactly the date this model is a copy off, checking google I found triple expansion engines were around this time frame so that is what I decided to build. I checked with my tooling supplier could only get 16 TPI stub acme full form tips so again this is what I used.
First up the tap I used silver steel as I was only tapping bronze.







I hardened the silver steel using a blow touch did not try to temper as it is a long time since I did any serious heat treatment it did end up quite hard as I only had to tap through 3/8 dia bronze it worked well







I made 2 nuts just in case I had any issues.

Next I cut the 3/16 thread on the shaft. My lathe is a Prototrak out of the USA I am semi retired these days and as you get next to nothing for used machinery I decided to keep my lathe it is great at this type of machining, I can program any pitch required so this thread was pretty straight forward. The only consideration with this thread was setting the screw cutting tip at the require helix angle for this thread it required 9 degrees on the holder so I machined a wedge to give me the required helix angle it worked great.






The thread for the reversing screw came out great







Next I made a simple wheel to fit on the shaft and bracket to fit to the model along with the reverse screw lever all came out great






And an up to date of progress


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## kvom (Jun 3, 2022)

Very informative.  I did a 2-start reversing screw for a larger model where I found a commercial tap and turned the shaft to match.  I never thought about making the tap myself, nor using acme threads.


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## Steamingandy (Jun 4, 2022)

Maybe a bit late, but when I made mine I found it needed more than the 1” of thread shown on the drawing I needed 1 1/8” minimum to achieve full movement of the expansion links.


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## Emers (Jun 4, 2022)

Hi Steamingandy
I agree with your observations I have not fastened things yet I looked at that very aspect and thought the same thing and I have a second reversing shaft made which has 1 1/8 of thread if required. I like suggestions from readers of this blog if they see things to make my life easier with this build. Keep the suggestions coming.


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## Steamingandy (Jun 5, 2022)

One other thing the shaft holding the expansion link arms, drawing says 6 15/16“, make 7 1/4” and trim down when you have the expansion links connected to the valves. Had to be longer on all the ones I have done.


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## Emers (Jun 5, 2022)

Thanks again already corrected this mistake on the drawings 1st one made as per the drawings 2nd one as you said 7 1/4 " 
Thanks again


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## Emers (Jun 7, 2022)

Now for the next part reasonably straight forward, the Guide bar bracket  first skimmed the sides to get a parallel then was able to hold lightly in the mill vice to machine to thickness worked well then drill and ream the 4 holes. I drew it up in AutoCAD and produced a program to machine the outside profile using a fixture I made first, see attached photos and YT link, The YT video was shot after I had actually finished  the part as I forgot to do it as I was machining.



















Link to YT machining










						20220603 Guide bar Bracket Machining
					

Machining the Guide bar Bracket




					youtube.com


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## Emers (Jun 13, 2022)

Hi All
Updated photo to this stage


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## Emers (Jun 13, 2022)

Now to do the Cylinder Block very straight forward machining job I have a surface grinder in the shop so can get very exact sizes when needed.






Many holes to drill and tap 7BA, Port holes mounting holes a total of 86 holes it took some time to complete, luckily no mistakes.
Joining the two castings was a bit problematic supplied with the kit are are some cheese head screws I did not like them as they are quite large for where the join needs to be so I had some M3 stainless SHCS which after milling a small pocket did a great job of joining the two castings.






Next I machined the valve chests for the HP and LP ends of the castings see attached photos along with the valve rod glands











This week I will start putting studs into the cylinder block and fitting the valve chests then proceed to machine the valve rods and the 3 slide valves which will need some slight modifications as the ports in the castings are not exactly as per the drawings, not exactly certain on what to do yet to get them working correctly but will tackle that this week. Till then cheers.


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## kvom (Jun 13, 2022)

I briefly had the castings for this engine before passing them along.  It seemed to me that most of the small castings were easier to recreate from billet.


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## Steamingandy (Jun 13, 2022)

Worth drilling the cladding holes in the cylinder block (easy to mount) before you get to much sticking out of it


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## Emers (Jun 13, 2022)

I like that idea will checkout before I get too much hanging off the cylinder block.


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## Emers (Jun 13, 2022)

Also as KVOM mentioned, yes some of the small castings are easier to make using billet stock I have done this myself as the castings are very hard to hold so billet works.


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## Richard Hed (Jun 13, 2022)

Emers said:


> Also as KVOM mentioned, yes some of the small castings are easier to make using billet stock I have done this myself as the castings are very hard to hold so billet works.


I've been following your thread.  I'm curious, how difficult would it be two build the cylinders from CI? (or steel)  Also, is there a reason the two cylinder sections are built in too parts?  Is it possible to build the two as one?


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## Emers (Jun 13, 2022)

Hi Richard
It would be very difficult to build from CI or steel as there are steam passages cast into the walls of the castings and it needs to be in 2 pieces as there is a cavity between the 2 castings for the slide valve to operate actually a valve chest. 










Hope this explains things


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## Richard Hed (Jun 13, 2022)

Emers said:


> Hi Richard
> It would be very difficult to build from CI or steel as there are steam passages cast into the walls of the castings and it needs to be in 2 pieces as there is a cavity between the 2 castings for the slide valve to operate actually a valve chest.
> View attachment 137134
> 
> ...


Thanx.  Yes, it explains a lot.  However, I thimpfks that it would be possible to carve this in CI.  I wonder what Stuart would charge for just these two castings.  (and how much shipping would be to USA).  There is another triple expansion engine I am interested in, I thimpfks with a condenser.  As far as I know, there are no castings available for this other one.


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## Emers (Jun 13, 2022)

Hi again
Stewart do sell individual castings they will quote cost plus postage to you just one email will get you a price.


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## timo_gross (Jun 14, 2022)

Emers said:


> Now for the next part reasonably straight forward, the Guide bar bracket  first skimmed the sides to get a parallel then was able to hold lightly in the mill vice to machine to thickness worked well then drill and ream the 4 holes. I drew it up in AutoCAD and produced a program to machine the outside profile using a fixture I made first, see attached photos and YT link, The YT video was shot after I had actually finished  the part as I forgot to do it as I was machining.
> 
> View attachment 136892
> 
> ...


Hello,

Did you insert bushings into the fixture, or are the stand offs machined from a complete solid? Do you keep these fixtures? I struggle to decide if it is easier to just make new fixtures occasionally or store and prepare them to be able to re-align them later. I would be interested how others do it.

Greetings Timo


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## Emers (Jun 14, 2022)

Hi Timo
That fixture has inserts I made that fixture for that job and they are all kept together but if I can do simple mods to be able to do other parts I will modify and hopefully not have to make the original part again.
Cheers
Emers


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## timo_gross (Jun 14, 2022)

Emers said:


> Hi Timo
> That fixture has inserts I made that fixture for that job and they are all kept together but if I can do simple mods to be able to do other parts I will modify and hopefully not have to make the original part again.
> Cheers
> Emers


Hello, 

thank you for reply . The insert will be something that I have learned today for future use. "archiving" fixtures vs making new ones will be always my gamble. The day I scrap one I need another part. 

I keep following Greetings  Timo


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## GreenTwin (Jun 14, 2022)

Richard Hed said:


> Thanx.  Yes, it explains a lot.  However, I thimpfks that it would be possible to carve this in CI.  I wonder what Stuart would charge for just these two castings.  (and how much shipping would be to USA).  There is another triple expansion engine I am interested in, I thimpfks with a condenser.  As far as I know, there are no castings available for this other one.


I was wondering that too (Why not put all three cylinders into a single casting?).
I guess you could cast a monolithic block if you used piston valves.
.


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## Emers (Jun 20, 2022)

Update
I did as suggested by some  people and drill all the remaining holes in the cylinder block castings. The drain cock holes and the lagging holes.








and the progress to this point













Have also made the the expansion dies and the valve rod heads visible in the progress photos


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## Emers (Jun 22, 2022)

And now for a little bling. I decided to make dome nuts for the column/cylinder block connection. Using brass as this was in stock I did a drawing and machined the dome first then holding in a collet chuck drilled and tapped to 4 BA.























Did not get as much done this week as I wanted paying work first to cover hobby costs hopefully more next week.


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## Emers (Jul 4, 2022)

Hi Everyone
Today I decided to make some gaskets, there are several on the model. I start by drawing the gasket in cad and save as a dxf file then using a laser I purchased recently I cut them all out.
Worked great.






I link to YT showing a short video of my laser inaction









						20220704 Laser cutting 1
					






					youtube.com


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## Emers (Jul 5, 2022)

Thanks everyone for the thumbs up I really appreciate all acknowledgements.
Cheers
Everyone


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## minh-thanh (Jul 5, 2022)

Emers !

A great project!
Thanks for sharing.
I have always liked steam engines, especially steam trains
Making a steam train is one of my goals .


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## Mechanicboy (Jul 5, 2022)

Emers..

I spend 2,5 year to complete the Stuart triple expansion steam engine with the manual tools and jiggs etc.    

Not a new beginner project as this engine is the most complex and dificult to machine, many machinists give up part way through construction so part completed models are often found for sale.


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## Emers (Jul 5, 2022)

Yes I agree it is a complex and difficult but with a little patience and taking it slow I feel it will be completed. Not certain of the time yet but I will push on and post my progress.
Cheers
Everyone


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## kvom (Jul 6, 2022)

I met a guy at Cabin Fever who built this as his first engine (or so he claims).  But he had as a mentor one of the top model builders.


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## Emers (Aug 31, 2022)

Hi Everyone
I have been on short break. I did get a few parts completed over the last 6 weeks, they include IP tail rod guide and IP Valve inspection plug
Also the slide valves and the valve operating blocks. I have finished the cylinder covers top and bottom and the valve rod glands for all 3 cylinders.
I am working on the connecting rods now will post when finished


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## Emers (Sep 7, 2022)

Some progress
I have made the connecting rods using Steamingandy method. It worked out great. I am trying his suggestion regards the oil hole through the centre will see how it goes when running. I did do some minor change to his method see attached YT clip.

I still have to machine the radius where the bearing attaches.


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## Steamingandy (Sep 7, 2022)

Making them that way certainly produces a nice looking rod


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## Emers (Sep 7, 2022)

The Connecting Rod bearings straight forward milling and turning. I machine a locating lip to keep alignment between the halves of the bearing and used Steamandys method to do the radius on the sides.


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## Emers (Sep 24, 2022)

Hi 
I have finished the connecting Rods


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## Emers (Sep 24, 2022)

Next part is the piston rod easier made by doing it in two pieces so I turned the shaft then the crosshead then a keeper to contain the bush. I have to learn how to take better photos as some of my efforts are not worth publishing will keep trying.


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## Emers (Sep 24, 2022)

I looked at where I was up to at this stage and figured I could time the build and test it running on air. I used steamingandy's guide to time the eccentrics and set the slide valve in both forward & reverse and gave it a run on air. I am only doing the High Pressure cylinder today. It worked attached is a link to the YT clip


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## Steamingandy (Sep 24, 2022)

It’s certainly running great,well done bet you can’t wait to get it finished now.


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## Emers (Sep 25, 2022)

You are correct will try the other cylinders then get onto all the remaining parts. I can see the end still some distance to go but it is progressing well.


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## Steamchick (Sep 25, 2022)

I am enjoying your build. Thanks for posting the photos.
I hope everything is well oiled when you do your first runs. I even assemble with some Moly Grease I have on machined  bearings, bores etc, where I don't want to risk spalling or scuffing. The Molybdenum is excellent at preventing that. A very thin ie of the grease when assembling, then oiling before first run, means no scuffing etc, and the surplus grease is washed out by the oil. The black residual oil looks messy, but is good preparation for a long life.
A lovely model
K2


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## Emers (Oct 8, 2022)

I have been machining some more parts. I have not explained the slide valve setup the setting of the high and low pressure cylinders slide valves is very straight forward after setting the eccentrics on the crank I used the method described by steamingandy to do that . His picture build has been very helpful, I have seen somewhere else the setting of the intermediate cylinder slide valve and I used that method picture attached


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## Emers (Oct 8, 2022)

Continuing on I have made the 3 Guide bars all straight forward as I have a surface grinder very easy to get them looking very nice.


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## Emers (Oct 8, 2022)

Decided to make the transfer pipes using my home made tube bender have bent up the two pipes and silver soldered the flanges to the 5/16 pipe. Will silver solder the other pipe this week then will have to lag them more pics to follow.


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