# 1/4 Galloway Hit and Miss engine



## marksavoca (Apr 24, 2017)

Here is my build of a 1/4 scale Galloway Hit and Miss engine based on Ministeam castings. I am a hobby machinist and welcome all feedback. I try to capture my setups and approach for each step.  I started a few weeks ago, so I'm going to catch you all up in the next few posts. I'm also new to this forum, so I apologize in advance if I break any rules or not follow convention.


The kit:


IMG_2760 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

It is much larger than my previous engine, Little Brother by Paul Breish:


IMG_2776 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 24, 2017)

I got started by machining the bottom of the base flat. I used a combination of mill vice and clamping to hold the base measuring up from the table to get even end-to-end.



IMG_2882

You can see that a machined around the clamps, moved them and finished up.


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## deeferdog (Apr 24, 2017)

Hi Mark, welcome to the forum. Can you tell us a bit about yourself and your machines?


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## marksavoca (Apr 24, 2017)

Pretty straight forward.



IMG_2896 



IMG_2898 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_2904 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The base can now sit flat on the sub-base.


IMG_2908 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 24, 2017)

I started by cleaning up the edges to create a surface to clamp.



IMG_2941 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Using some parallels I put it back in the vise to machine the top edges.


IMG_2942 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_2945 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Now I can flip it over and surface the bottom. Again using parallels to keep it flat.


IMG_2947 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once it was surfaced, I machined the lip that will eventually keep the bearing centered.



IMG_2957 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Using a combination of the vice and clamps, and a 30 degree wedge, the base was prepared for machining the bearing surfaces.



IMG_2965 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I machined them to match the bearing caps. You will notice that because I did not narrow the caps yet, they interfere with the base.


IMG_2978 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

So I put the caps back in the vise and cut down the one side. Now it sits in place.

IMG_2985 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I cut them in two, and machined the cut side flat.



IMG_2998 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Surfaced and drilled for the mounting screws.



IMG_3005 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used the bearing caps to mark for the base. I then used the center drill, drilled and tapped.



IMG_3020 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3023 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3033 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once screwed in place, I mounted the base back in the milling machine to clean up the edges of the caps and to add the details.



IMG_3056 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3058 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Caps are done for now. I will add the grease cups once I determine what I'm going to use.


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## marksavoca (Apr 25, 2017)

deeferdog said:


> Hi Mark, welcome to the forum. Can you tell us a bit about yourself and your machines?



Thanks deeferdog. 

I bought a Sherline 4000 lathe and milling head about 25 yrs ago. Used mostly for building remote control cars & trucks. Put away until a few years ago when my wife bought me the Little Brother casting kit. It came out ok. Would run for short periods. I think it has fuel delivery issues.

Next I built a PM Research #5 steam engine and PMR #1 Boiler. Both came out nice. I then invested in a larger lathe and milling machine. Grizzly G0768 8x16 lathe and a Littlemachineshop HiTorque mill. I built the PMR #3 steam engine with the new equipment and now onto the 1/4 scale Galloway.

I'm just a hobbyist. Learned mostly from doing, and redoing and searching online. Learned a lot from watching TinkerJohn on youtube.

I'm also into photography, so I have LOTS of pictures. Most are on flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/marksavoca/albums)



IMG_1871 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## deeferdog (Apr 25, 2017)

Hi Mark, Your machines are similar to mine. I had your mill for a couple of years and learned everything I know about milling on it. (That's not a lot) I recently upgraded to the Optimum BF20 (Grizzly G0704) for a bit more power. My lathe is similar size. Same as you, just a hobbyist, at the moment I'm building a Bolton 12 steam engine. The drawings are for a casting kit but the cost of it decided me to try and build it from scratch, so far it is going OK. I really like the work you have posted so far and will follow it with interest. It's easy to see that you are into photography by the quality of your shots. If you see some of mine you'll see that I still have a way to go.
Cheers, Peter.


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## marksavoca (Apr 25, 2017)

Much of the measurements are referenced to the center line of the cylinder. Because the centerline of the cylinder is not something I can measure from (it is just a point in space), I defined two surfaces to use. Marking the center of the bearing caps and measuring up from the bottom I determined that the center line is 2.040" above the bottom surface. By measuring side to side and finding the center I determined the center line is 1.500" in from the cam/pushrod side that I surfaced earlier. Hopefully the pictures help show this.

I will use these surfaces as references from now on. I would like feedback if there is a better approach for setting references that I can measure from, rather than a point in space.



IMG_3069 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3071 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 25, 2017)

I built the crankshaft from 1/2" drill rod and 3/8" x 5/8" steel bar. Machined, 'glued' with red Loctite and pinned.

Started with the Crank webs. Rough cut, milled to length.



IMG_3084 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3085 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3086 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After laying out the holes for the journal, I used the 4 jaw chuck, center drilled, step drilled and finally used a 1/2 reem. Repeated for the second web.



IMG_3102 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3103 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I cut the 1/2" drill rod to rough length. Here you can see all the rough parts.



IMG_3106 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I put the webs back in the 4 jaw chuck to machine the shoulders. I used the dial indicator to reset the center.



IMG_3110 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3115 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Here you can see the shoulder.



IMG_3117 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Back into the 4-jaw for the other side. Here you can see I used a parallel while mounting the web. This will ensure the surface if square with the turning plane. Make sure you remove the parallels Before you turn on the lathe!



IMG_3119 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The completed webs:



IMG_3125 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After test fitting the completed webs and journals I attempted to Loctite it all together. While I was assembling it, I started to struggle and felt like the Loctite was going to setup before I had everything positioned, so I pulled it apart and wiped off the Loctite. To give myself a little more control and time, I did one web at a time. First Loctite, let it setup, pinned it and then put on the second web. This way only one web could move and I could control the spacing better.



IMG_3144 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Here is both sides Loctited and pinned. You can also see that I cleaned up / rounded the ends on the belt sander.



IMG_3156 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Here you can see the assembled unit with the pins cut down.



IMG_3225 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Cleaned up with the belt sander.



IMG_3227 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Used the mill to remove the extra material



IMG_3230 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3234 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I got out the hacksaw and cut out the material between the webs.



IMG_3239 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Into the Mill to clean it up



IMG_3241 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Almost done, stick with me...



IMG_3243 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Machined the keyway



IMG_3280 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

And with that we have a completed crankshaft


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## marksavoca (Apr 25, 2017)

I mounted the base on the angle plate and verified that it is parallel to the table. Using a center drill I step drilled each side. Only after I got to the larger drill bits did I drill through both sides. When I built the Little Brother, I drilled both sides at the same time thinking it would be aligned but it was not as accurate as I would have liked. I think the small deflection as it passed through added up by time it came out the far end. So this time I did each side separately until a had a bit that would not likely flex.



IMG_3163 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



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IMG_3168 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Flipped it over and drilled the other side.



IMG_3174 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

And then through both.



IMG_3178 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Using a scrap 5/8" bar I confirmed that it was centered correctly.



IMG_3186 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Onto the bearings....


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## marksavoca (Apr 25, 2017)

Using 7/8" Bronze I made the two main bearings. Not a lot to say. Machined the outer dimensions for the shoulder and body, center drilled, step drilled and reemed to 1/2"



IMG_3220 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3244 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3253 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

And with the Crankshaft in place.



IMG_3259 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I quickly found that the Crankshaft hits the base. Back to the mill to get a little space.



IMG_3254 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 25, 2017)

Now that the Crankshaft is located, I can drill for the Cam shaft, Make the cam shaft and the Crank bushing to space the Crank gear.

Back onto the angle plate and squared. I generally will use both a square and measure from the edge of the angle plate to make sure everything is square to the table. I used the flat surfaces on the cam side as my reference.

Layout, center drill and drill.



IMG_3262 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Again using the 7/8" bronze I created the camshaft.



IMG_3266 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3268 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I made the bronze bushing



IMG_3283 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

With it all in place.



IMG_3286 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3289 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 25, 2017)

Before mounting the Cylinder casting into the lathe I wanted to clean up the end. I first tried clamping it to the angle plate but I could not get it tight and straight. Next I tried clamping it directly to the table and like machining the base I moved the clamp as I machined around.



IMG_3301 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3306 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Now into the 4-jaw. Again, I used the dial indicator and the body of the cylinder to make sure it was true.



IMG_3319 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

With a long boring bar I machined the inner surfaces to specs.



IMG_3378 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_3381 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then turned it around to open the other end. For this kit the cylinder liner does not go all the way to the head. The last 3/4" is the casted cylinder. For now I opened to about a tenth below the final diameter.



IMG_3385 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next up is turning the large chuck of cast iron into the liner.



IMG_4068 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Mounted and trued, outer dimension roughed in and the center drilled out.



IMG_4070 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4147 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Quick detour. So that I know the final outside dimension, I need to bore the base that accepts the end of the cylinder liner.

Again, clamped to the angle plate and squared.



IMG_4071 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4078 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4155 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Now I can layout and machine the final outside dimensions. While I aim to use the specifications from the drawing, I need to match against reality. 



IMG_4161 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once I had the inner diameter roughed in (it will be finished once mounted in the cylinder casting) and the final outer diameters, I turned it around, re-aligned it and used a cutoff to remove the end. I plan on using this end for making the rings.



IMG_4173 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Here is the completed liner. You can see the three different diameters.



IMG_4176 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

All sitting together



IMG_4178 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4181 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 30, 2017)

Marking out for the three bolts that will hold it together.



IMG_4183 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once mounted on the angle plate it was too tall for the mill, so I used the drill press.



IMG_4184 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4185 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used a reverse counterbore to counter sink.



IMG_4186 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used a transfer punch to mark the holes. I started with the lower hole, I aligned the cylinder the best I can, knowing I was going to machine the critical locations once it was mounted to the base.



IMG_4189 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4219 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 30, 2017)

Now that the cylinder is mounted to the base I can surface some of the cylinder to ensure it is square/parallel to the base.



IMG_4194 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4209 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 30, 2017)

The stock I used was a little too thick and needed to be milled



IMG_4222 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To thread the end I need to mount into the four jaw, center with dial indicator and turn to spec. I could then use a die and thread it.



IMG_4228 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4225 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4228 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4229 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

You can see I used the chuck in the tail stock to make sure the die was square to the rod.

Next I layed out and drilled two holes. One will hold the cam follower and the other is for the governor latch.



IMG_4234 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The cam follower was pretty straight forward. Used the lathe to center drill and drill and machined the outside to spec.



IMG_4238 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The shaft for the cam follower



IMG_4241 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The parts. You can see I put an angle on the end to match the drawing.



IMG_4243 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used Loctite to mount the roller shaft to the pushrod.



IMG_4247 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Now onto the other end, started with a small steel blank, Turned it in the lathe, drilled and tapped for the pushrod.



IMG_4251 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4252 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4253 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To the mill to drill and cut the slot.



IMG_4256 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4258 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After using the belt sander to round off some, here is the completed part.



IMG_4260 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

A quick nut



IMG_4266 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4269 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Assembled



IMG_4271 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Completed assembly



IMG_4273 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 30, 2017)

Now that I have the final dimensions from the pushrod, I can machine the brackets.



IMG_4275 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4279 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once the top was surfaced, I could flip it over, using the parallels again and machine the bottom surface.



IMG_4282 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I machined out for the pushrod. Using the actual pushrod dimensions. Note: While I always try to machine to the drawing, I don't have the skill yet to always hit every dimension perfect. So I always try to use the actual dimensions and I try to machine items in the order to be able to use the actual dimensions.



IMG_4285 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

A nice sliding fit.



IMG_4288 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

A little old-school hacksaw to separate the two brackets.



IMG_4293 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To make sure the sides are perpendicular to the pushrod I used a square. Once I was happy that it was square, I milled the the sides to spec.



IMG_4300 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Here are the two parts at this point.



IMG_4306 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used the rotary table to machine the ends. I used a scrap piece of aluminum to protect the table. I had a hard time holding down the small part. with a little fussing I got it to work ok.



IMG_4307 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr 

Back to the mill to cut the slot in the rear bracket.



IMG_4317 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Drilled...



IMG_4318 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The complete parts.



IMG_4320 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 30, 2017)

I'm not 100% sure this is the right thing to do, and time will tell.  

After drilling for the water drain I used red Loctite to attach the Cylinder sleeve to the cylinder. This then allowed me to finish the inside surface.

To get a flat surface for the drill I used an end mill 



IMG_4203 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4204 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Here you can see the light from the drain.



IMG_4207 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Red Loctite, a clamp and some time.



IMG_4327 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4358 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



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## marksavoca (Apr 30, 2017)

Now that I have the final dimension of the cylinder, I can machine the head.

First I surfaced the top side.



IMG_4345 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4347 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I turned it on end and surfaced the side where the intake and exhaust will be.



IMG_4351 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Now into the four jaw, centered and faced.



IMG_4375 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4378 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4381 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Laid out the valve guides.



IMG_4382 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Into the Mill to be drilled



IMG_4386 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I created a (ugly) tool to machine the outside of the valve guides.



IMG_4388 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used the boring head to machine the outside.



IMG_4397 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I resurfaced the top side to clean up a little.



IMG_4398 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Exhaust and intake. I measure up from the vise to make sure it was parallel to the table.



IMG_4453 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4457 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Onto the valve side. I used the reamer to ream the valve guide and to re-align for drilling the valve openings.



IMG_4458 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4460 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I laid out the holes for mounting the head to the cylinder.



IMG_4473 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Back to the mill, using parallels and the flat side surface. Center drilled and drilled each hole.



IMG_4474 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4475 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Done, for now.


IMG_4476 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 30, 2017)

To make sure the flat side of the head was parallel to the base, I used a layout stone and a 2x3 block. I put the block under the flat side of the head and used the flat side of the base to ensure they were parallel. Holding it still I used a transfer punch to mark the first hole. Then to the mill. Center drill, drill and tap.



IMG_4478 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then marked, drilled and tapped the opposite hole. Once the two were set, I marked and drilled the rest.



IMG_4480 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Some temporary hardware (will eventually get studs and nuts).



IMG_4483 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Apr 30, 2017)

Now that the head is mounted, I don't want to mount the pushrod brackets until I have the Rocker Arm Support Bracket mounted, to ensure that everything is aligned. I could move the pushrod brackets slightly if needed. 

This is another example of using reality and not just the drawings, even though I try to make sure the two match.

Starts with the casting, I used the belt sander to remove some of the casting marks and then into the lathe.



IMG_4488 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4520 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once faced, I center drilled so I could bore out the inside.



IMG_4522 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4524 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4527 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I built a simple arbor to hold the bracket so I could machine the outside.



IMG_4528 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The live center gives support and pressure to stay on the arbor.



IMG_4532 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4533 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used a small sanding drum to clean up the edges.



IMG_4537 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4552 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next, because there is not flat sides to clamp, I created a small plate the held the bracket square.



IMG_4554 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Drilling for the rocker pin.



IMG_4557 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Machining the slot for the rocker arm.



IMG_4563 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

How I made sure it was square to the table.


IMG_4569 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Before some sanding.



IMG_4570 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Finished sanding. Noticed the slot cut in the side. I guess I missed that picture...



IMG_4608 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## Walsheng (Apr 30, 2017)

Interesting, my first IC engine was a Little Brother and I am now working on a 1/4 scale Galloway.  I am not as far along as you on the Galloway and It will take me a lot longer to complete than yours will I am sure (took me 36 years to complete the Little Brother!)
I have now seen 3 variations on bonding the cylinder sleeve to the cylinder. One was high temp RTV, one was JB Weld and now locktight.  I guess I will cross that bridge eventually.
I saw in one of your pictures you have an end mill mounted in a drill chuck.  Be very careful doing that, drill chucks are not meant for side loads.
Nice job so far and I will be following.

John


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## marksavoca (May 6, 2017)

Thanks John. Some things can't be rushed 

I couldn't reach with a collet so I used the chuck to spot face to have a flat surface to drill into. I guess I need a longer bit.


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## marksavoca (May 6, 2017)

I started by mounting the aluminum casted piston and making it as true as I could so I could machine the end that will hold it while I machine the rest.



IMG_4616 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4617 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once turned around I could bring it to the correct diameter.



IMG_4626 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used the cylinder to make sure it was close but not too tight, about 3 thousands under.



IMG_4627 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used the parting bit to cut the ring groves. To make sure the bit is square to the chuck I use a 2x3 block.



IMG_4628 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Laid out the locations for the rings.



IMG_4630 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I cut the rings and the oil groves, using a narrower cutoff bit.



IMG_4633 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4636 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To the milling machine to clean up the inside and drill and tap 



IMG_4641 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I wasn't sure how to make sure I drilled the pin perpendicular to the inner surfaces, so I used two screws and 2x3 block.



IMG_4646 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once everything was done I cut off the end.



IMG_4654 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Completed Piston



IMG_4660 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 6, 2017)

The material was a little two thick so I started by machines the ends to the correct dimension. The middle is going to be turned down so I did not machine it.



IMG_4673 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To save a little bit on time on the lathe, I milled it to rough size.



IMG_4683 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Some time on the lathe...



IMG_4685 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4687 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



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Now onto the brass casting that connects to the crankshaft.



IMG_4699 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I first squared the sides.



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IMG_4702 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Hacksaws suck...



IMG_4704 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4706 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Using the sides squared earlier, I used the parallels and milled to spec.



IMG_4710 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4712 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once both halves were ready, I machined the notches.



IMG_4713 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4718 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Drilled the two holes that will mount them to the piston rod.



IMG_4720 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To the lathe to machine the sides, step drill and ream for the crankshaft.



IMG_4723 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4728 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Time to drill the hole for the piston side.



IMG_4749 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4751 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

And to turn the bronze bearing that will attach it to the piston pin.



IMG_4758 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Step drilled and reamed for the wrist pin



IMG_4761 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4764 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

And then pressed in the piston rod



IMG_4766 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The wrist pin is pretty straight forward. Cut to length. Chamfered and spots milled.



IMG_4775 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

All the parts



IMG_4777 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Making the square head screws. Using the tailstock to hold the die square.



IMG_4782 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4787 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used two nuts and a large washer to mount the screw in the mill vise.



IMG_4788 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



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IMG_4793 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Mounted in place



IMG_4796 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 6, 2017)

Before I mount the brackets for the pushrod I wanted to complete the rocker arm. I can then use it to make sure everything is aligned.

Again the material was first machined to the correct dimensions, and laid out.



IMG_4803 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Holes drilled



IMG_4806 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I milled to rough shape



IMG_4811 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After a little sanding



IMG_4816 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

And with the disk that will be silver soldered on



IMG_4820 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After soldering



IMG_4824 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 6, 2017)

With everything assembled I marked for one of the bracket screws.



IMG_4827 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4829 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After drilling and taping the remaining bracket screws



IMG_4835 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The progress so far



IMG_4844 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4845 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## Walsheng (May 7, 2017)

Mark:  Looking good!
Are you going to make the igniter or use a spark plug?  If you are going to use the igniter there is a part missing from the plans, at least the plans I got about a year ago.

John


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## marksavoca (May 7, 2017)

John, I'm going to make the ignitor. Thanks for the heads up on the missing part. Looking quickly at my drawings it looks like it is missing on them.

Thanks,
Mark


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## Jasonb (May 7, 2017)

It was missing on my 1/3rd scale drawings too, I opted to solder on a bit of brass and then machine it down to size which is more like the original which had the stop as part of the casting.


----------



## Walsheng (May 7, 2017)

Jason, I like that solution.  I haven't got that far and at my building pace it might take a while!
I needed to 3D model it to understand how the darned thing works, wasn't clear to me from the prints.

John


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## gbritnell (May 8, 2017)

Here's a short history of the ignitor drawings. When Ministeam acquired the castings, drawings and old stock for the Galloway series of engines they asked me if I would build one each of the engines, 1/3, 1/4, 1/6 and 1/8th as the originator of the engines didn't want to sell his finished engines. Having never constructed an ignitor before I reached out to the engine community for some guidance. I was given a tip from a forum member to add the little stop post to the ignitor base. When I updated the drawings sets I included the little stop post to the ignitor except for the 1/4 scale drawings which were done by someone else. 
I'll first explain how the ignitor works and then the stop post will be better understood. 
You have a base into which the parts are assembled. There is an insulated fixed post that the hot wire is hooked to. It projects out of the inside of the base and on the larger versions has a disc soldered to it to act as a point.
 Now the trip mechanism: You have a shaft that projects out of both side of the base. On the inside you have a lever with a point which makes contact with the other point on the fixed post or touches the fixed shaft.  
 On the outside you have two pieces, a trip lever and a stop lever. The stop lever is clamped to the shaft and has a return spring which keeps the inside point arm from touching the fixed (hot) shaft.  
 Now you have a trip lever which slides onto the end of this shaft. It is connected to the stop lever by the conical spring that you see. When the exhaust valve pushrod with the trip arm engages the trip lever on the ignitor it starts to rotate it and in rotating it the spring connection then starts to rotate the shaft with the point arm. When the shaft is turned far enough the points make contact and allows the current to flow. At this point the trip arm disengages from the tip lever on the ignitor and the return spring pulls the point arm back to the open position. (No connection so no current flow.) When the points pop open a spark from the coil jumps across the points and ignites the air/fuel mixture.  
 Now the little stop post with the adjusting screw. On the smaller engines with the smaller ignitors there's not much room inside the spark pocket on the side of the cylinder. As the points are normally open, the return spring has the rotating shaft pulled back, due to the small space the moveable point arm can touch the inside of the spark pocket thereby allowing current to flow so with the adjusting post and screw you can set the amount of return travel on the rotating shaft so that it doesn't contact the the inside of the spark pocket.  
 Spark timing is achieved when the points open and the spark jumps from the insulated post to the moveable point arm.  
 It sounds complicated but once you see it work it makes sense.


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## Walsheng (May 8, 2017)

George:  Thank you for the explanation.  After I modeled it I was able to noodle out how it works, or at least how I thought it should work, and your explanation confirmed what I thought.
Mark:  If it's any help and you can read a 3D file I can send it to you when you are ready.  Looking forward to more of your build.

John


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## marksavoca (May 16, 2017)

Thanks for the input and explanation for the ignitor.


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## marksavoca (May 16, 2017)

I used the three jaw chuck to hold the flywheel for the initial turning. I used the dial indicator to get it as close to true as I could. I then turned the other side so I would have something better to hold on to .



IMG_4879 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4880 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

This is the largest I can fit on my lathe. Everything was at the limit.



IMG_4882 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4883 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4861 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The surface for the governor weight 



IMG_4854 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Step drilled



IMG_4862 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4864 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Repeat for the second Flywheel



IMG_4886 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 16, 2017)

The collars were made from 1" steel. Turned and bored to specification.



IMG_4917 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4921 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4923 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_4925 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Up next is the Arm. It is made from 3 parts, the fork, arm and pad. First I laid out the the fork. 



IMG_5014 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I first drilled to get the inner diameter. I then milled the two sides to make a U.



IMG_5017 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then milled to correct height. You will also see that I used the belt sander to round the outside. I have a rotary table, but have not had good success using it yet.



IMG_5019 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

With the collar sitting in it.



IMG_5022 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Cut off from the stock and milled a groove for the arm to fit into.



IMG_5026 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I machined the material for the arm to the correct thickness.



IMG_5028 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then laid out the arm. I left each end longer then required so I could adjust if needed.



IMG_5030 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Drilled for the slot.



IMG_5032 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Cutting it down to rough size and shape.



IMG_5044 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5046 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place



IMG_5049 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The parts. You can see the slot milled for the pad.



IMG_5050 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I drilled the fork for the two screws that will eventually mount it to the collar.



IMG_5076 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To drill and tap the collar, I used the wiggler to find each side and therefor the center. Center drilled and tapped.



IMG_5078 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

With one side mounted, I used a transfer punch to gently mark the second hole.



IMG_5079 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To help me make sure it is aligned, I left a bolt in the other side and tried to hold it flush as I put it in the vise.



IMG_5082 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Another picture with it sitting in place.



IMG_5085 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Outside to silver solder. You can see I also used the belt sander to round off the ends.



IMG_5091 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Soldered sitting in place. The screws are just temporary.



IMG_5092 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Cleaned up with a wire brush in the drill press.



IMG_5098 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5100 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The completed arm and collars.



IMG_5102 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## gbritnell (May 17, 2017)

Very nice work on the governor lever! This is one of those small parts that's a real pain to make.
gbritnell


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## marksavoca (May 25, 2017)

Laid it out and drilled to form the basic curves



IMG_5131 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5134 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Then I removed much of the extra material



IMG_5139 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5143 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5148 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Cleaned up some and used belt sander to round out some



IMG_5177 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

With the Catch finger



IMG_5188 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place



IMG_5197 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I left the latch end long until I complete the pushrod side.


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## marksavoca (May 25, 2017)

Started with a small .250 x .250 blank



IMG_5218 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Used the four jaw and dial indicator to center the square. 



IMG_5220 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Because the 4 jaw chuck won't hold such a small item, I used some scrap to give me some more room.



IMG_5221 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Turned down to fit into the hole drilled into the pushrod



IMG_5222 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I machined the catch square initially, 



IMG_5225 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then used a file to give it more of a lip to catch on.



IMG_5227 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Attached to the pushrod with red Loctite.



IMG_5228 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The Catch Plate screw was pretty straight forward, but fun.



IMG_5247 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5248 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5249 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 25, 2017)

I had not drilled the main bearing caps for the grease cups and the anti-rotation pin. So I did.



IMG_5211 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5212 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Mounted back on the mill to drill for the anti-rotation pin.



IMG_5214 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Made some very small pins.



IMG_5215 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


With the pushrod in place I noticed the it hit the base when the pushrod was pushed open.



IMG_5253 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

So back onto the mill to be cleaned up a little.



IMG_5251 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

All together. I trimmed the catch, but still left it long.



IMG_5256 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5265 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 25, 2017)

The casting has the basic shape. 



IMG_5270 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Started by cleaning up the end



IMG_5273 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then surfaced and drilled the mounting hole and cut of the extra on the other end.



IMG_5284 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5287 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The governor weight mounting bolt



IMG_5290 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Drilling the mounting hole in the flywheel



IMG_5275 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place. I cleaned it up some on the sander, but left it fairly rough.



IMG_5292 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5295 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5296 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5305 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## Walsheng (May 25, 2017)

Looking good. Watching and learning.

John


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## marksavoca (May 30, 2017)

Started with 1/2" blank



IMG_5323 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Added 45 deg chamfer and used the parting tool to create the small stub on the face.



IMG_5326 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Drilled for the retaining clip



IMG_5329 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

One intake valve



IMG_5331 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

With the spring retainer



IMG_5575 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The two valves



IMG_5573 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 30, 2017)

When I machined the head, I used a drill bit to create the chamfer for the valves. You can see on the left seat the 'chatter' from the bit.



IMG_5653 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To get this smooth and to seal, I used some valve grinding compound and a drill.



IMG_5659 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

On a very slow speed I used the drill and compound to polish the seat. I oiled the shaft and you need to be very careful not to get the compound anywhere other then the seat.



IMG_5661 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Much better



IMG_5673 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 30, 2017)

I am using 1" 'black' pipe to make the rings. I'm not sure how pipe is dimensioned, but the 1" npt is the perfect dimension for the piston (1.312 diameter).



IMG_5584 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Surfaced the inside dimension to the a couple of thousands less than the dimension of the piston ring groove. The outside dimension matches the cylinder dimension.

I parted off three, just in case...



IMG_5591 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in the cylinder



IMG_5588 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Used hacksaw and vise to cut.



IMG_5595 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5597 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After some googling I decided to use the screwdriver method. I gently slide the ring onto the screwdriver and heated it evenly until it fell off.



IMG_5682 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5685 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

You can see it is now set to the slightly wider dimension.



IMG_5688 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Carefully onto the piston



IMG_5642 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (May 30, 2017)

Now that I have piston rings and valves, I wanted to make sure the compression was good and valves did not leak. 

Before I seated the valves I did a similar test and the valves leaked badly.

My basic test was simply using my fingers over the intake and exhaust to feel pressure and/or vacuum. 

After the valves were seated you can see/hear the intake valve being sucked open. 

These are temporary springs and wire to hold the retainer, no gasket and just a couple of head bolts.

Here is a video of the test.



IMG_5681 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## Petit (Jun 6, 2017)

Looking forward to seeing how this one progresses, i absolutely love Hit and miss engines n really want to build one but im kinda apprehensive at the minute.


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## marksavoca (Jun 7, 2017)

Pretty straight forward. Mounted it square in the mill.



IMG_5772 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5775 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To drill from the pocket into the top of the cylinder, I used wood spacers for the 50 deg and 6 deg angles. Used a wood clamp because I am only drilling.



IMG_5781 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Looking into the end of the cylinder.



IMG_5787 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

View from the pocket.



IMG_5790 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I'll drill the two holes to mount the ignitor, after I have it completed.


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## marksavoca (Jun 7, 2017)

Make sure you have read the earlier comments about the ignitor and how to add the additional adjustable stop.

The ignitor starts as a pretty rough casting.



IMG_5695 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I first mounted it with the outside and used the dial indicator to get it as centered as I could.



IMG_5702 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then machined what will later become the inside of the ignitor so I can turn it around and hold it more firmly than the rough casting.



IMG_5704 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once turned around I machined the outside diameter.



IMG_5710 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Over to the Mill 



IMG_5736 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

You can see the layout for the two holes that will hold the fixed and moveable shafts.



IMG_5739 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

A little hard to see, but I milled the right side flat so I can later attach a small arm that will act as a stop. The fixed and moveable shaft holes drilled.



IMG_5745 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To machine the inside of the moveable shaft, I first tried to Loctite a 1/8" shaft in the whole that I could then mount in the lathe. After a little time on the lathe the shaft started to bend. So I heated it up and removed the shaft and went back to the trusty 4 jaw. I used a temporary shaft to make sure it is centered.



IMG_5754 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5758 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5760 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The body



IMG_5765 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The moveable shaft



IMG_5801 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5804 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place



IMG_5819 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

For the insulator on the fixed shaft I used a block of plastic and the four jaw.



IMG_5821 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Getting it roughed out



IMG_5823 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The basic part. You will see that I still need to bore the larger end. 



IMG_5827 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To bore it, I inserted a drill bit to stop the chuck from crushing it and mounted it back in the lathe.



IMG_5828 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Looking carefully you can see the bit.



IMG_5830 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I don't have any small boring bits, so I used a drill bit to bore the end. The inside will be tapered vs flat, but I think it will be ok.



IMG_5832 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

A not so great picture of the completed insulator.



IMG_5835 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Onto the fixed shaft. It is about an inch long and only .099 in diameter. Rather than using the follower, I machined it in a couple of stages. Sliding it out from the chuck each time.



IMG_5841 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then could thread the end of it. Using the chuck in the tail stock to keep the die perpendicular.



IMG_5843 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5844 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Like the insulator, I turned it around to drill for the point. Was careful to not hurt the threads.



IMG_5847 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The parts so far



IMG_5849 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting together



IMG_5852 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_5857 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Jun 7, 2017)

@Jasonb @gbritnell, How did you attach the points? What did you use for points?

Jason I think you said you used 3/32" TIG electrode. Would you recommend that still?

Anyone have suggestions?


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## Jasonb (Jun 8, 2017)

Yes I used 3/32" tig electrode silver soldered (silver braze) to the other parts, have used it a few time since and if I could have found my length of rod would have used it again at the weekend You may need the next size down on your smaller engine.

You need to used something like a Dremel cut off disc to cut it and grind to shape.


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## marksavoca (Jun 25, 2017)

More work on the ignitor.

Up next is the clamp. Starts with a small block machined to the outer dimensions.


IMG_6033 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6029 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6030 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Drilling and tapping the mount for the ignitor return spring



IMG_6031 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used a dremel cutoff blade in the mill to cut the slot.


IMG_6036 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6039 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place


IMG_6051 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Up next is the ignitor handle


IMG_6056 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6098 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6100 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6103 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Created the piece that will be soldered on and become the stop.


IMG_6104 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Soldering up the parts.



IMG_6105 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After soldering


IMG_6106 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I did not like the way the first movable shaft came out, so I rebuilt it. This time I used 1/8 drill steel and machined a separate ring to hold the point.



IMG_6140 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Next I turned a piece of scrap to resemble the size and shape of the movable shaft with the hammer to use for making the torsion spring. You will notice that I put a 90 deg bend in the piano wire and clamped it in the three jaw with the template.



IMG_6288 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Partially assembled


IMG_6295 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Used the same plastic to create a small washer for the fixed point.


IMG_6417 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Laid out the terminal plate.


IMG_6420 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Drilled and cut with tin-snips to rough shape. Then to the sander.


IMG_6423 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6424 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The completed ignitor assembly


IMG_6433 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6438 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6447 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6450 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## Cogsy (Jun 25, 2017)

A lot of work in such a small piece! Your soldering setup intrigues me - how much flame and smoke do you have to put up with from the wood while you solder?


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## marksavoca (Jul 6, 2017)

Up next is the mixer. 

After studying the casting, I determined that I could not use the drawings. Several of the dimensions were smaller than the casting. I'm not sure if  I received the wrong casting or not.

The most critical dimension seemed to be ensuring the small port is in the center of the valve seat. 

The casting


IMG_6516 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Following the other great examples, I first turned the one end that would be used for turning the rest.



IMG_6519 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then turned it around and parted off the bulk of the end. This will be used later.



IMG_6522 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After drilling the center, I took it to the mill to machine the other two ports. 


IMG_6541 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then drilled the air inlet until it hit the center.



IMG_6546 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I drilled and tapped the fuel inlet. This gives me the reference for how deep to drill the cavity for the needle valve. 

I then drilled and tapped the cavity for the needle valve.


IMG_6546 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6574 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then drilled the small port until it hit the center.

This allowed me to put it back in the lathe and slowly drill until the small port is in the middle of the valve seat. I used a 90 deg bit to finish the valve seat.



IMG_6584 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

You can see the small port in the middle of the valve seat.



IMG_6586 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used a home-made bit to turn in a small relief as indicated on the diagram.



IMG_6591 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The completed end.



IMG_6599 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## Walsheng (Jul 7, 2017)

You are sailing on this build.  I started mine months before you did and you passed by me a while ago.  Looking good!

John


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## marksavoca (Jul 19, 2017)

Next is the coupling



IMG_6608 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Using the tail stock to keep the die square.


IMG_6609 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Once it was threaded I drilled it out.



IMG_6611 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

To thread the other side a created a fixture, a nut if you will, to put into the chuck without hurting the threads.



IMG_6616 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Up next is the glad nut



IMG_6618 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6623 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The mixer valve


IMG_6630 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6635 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6638 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The valve guide


IMG_6640 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place



IMG_6644 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The valve


IMG_6700 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6703 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Like setting the valves in the head, I used the cordless drill and valve grinding compound.



IMG_6708 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

The valve, guide and spring in place.



IMG_6712 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Looking down onto the valve



IMG_6713 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Jul 20, 2017)

Mixer Cap. I first turned the outside dimension in the lathe, then went to the milling machine and rotary table.



IMG_6718 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6724 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr




IMG_6727 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6731 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6732 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6733 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Again, using the tail to keep the die square.



IMG_6735 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6760 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used the rotary table to drill the 4 thru holes.



IMG_6759 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Completed and in place.



IMG_6765 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Laying out ratchet spring



IMG_6767 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Cut out



IMG_6769 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After a little time on the sander and some bending. I used a small punch to make the dimple.



IMG_6772 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

In place. You will notice I had to add a small washer. I couldn't cut the threads close enough to the center for the nut to get tight.



IMG_6780 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6781 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

For the fuel inlet, I needed to create a 3/16 mpt to #6-32.



IMG_6786 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6787 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place



IMG_6791 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Exploded views



IMG_6801 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6804 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Two of the more detailed components!



IMG_6828 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## gbritnell (Jul 21, 2017)

A suggestion Mark,
Use the lightest spring possible on the valve. Gravity along with a light spring is all that's required to close the valve.
gbritnell


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## marksavoca (Jul 21, 2017)

Thanks, I'll do that.

How about the intake and exhaust valves. I have some that match the specifications, but they seem pretty stiff.


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## marksavoca (Aug 21, 2017)

It's been a little while since I posted, so I'm catching up again.

Mounting the water hopper to the cylinder. Pretty straight forward, 4 thru holes and 4 tapped holes.



IMG_6831 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6833 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6835 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Aug 21, 2017)

Starting with the raw casting



IMG_6972 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I tried to get it as true as possible using the rough casting.



IMG_6975 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I then bored the inside so I would have a better spot to hold on.



IMG_6977 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Flipped it around and trued up again.



IMG_6978 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Machined the outside, drilled and tapped.



IMG_6980 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_6984 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

For the second half, I mounted back on the three jaw and trued.



IMG_7002 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7005 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I machined a small lip so I could turn it around and machine the inside surface.



IMG_7007 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7008 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7012 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

On to the rotary table to drill the holes



IMG_7015 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Some temporary bolts.



IMG_7018 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place.



IMG_7024 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Aug 21, 2017)

Up next is the fuel tank. I see many people make very nice brass tanks but most of the pictures of real Galloways look to have a galvanized tank. So I went for a more rustic and perhaps realistic look.

For the end caps I used 3" stove pipe caps. I soldered a short piece of stove pipe between them.



IMG_7031 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

A plate to attach to the base.



IMG_7071 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7082 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place



IMG_7076 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I bought some fuel tank sealer to seal any pin holes. Poured in, rotated, drained excess and let dry.


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## marksavoca (Aug 21, 2017)

I was excited to see the ignitor work, so I wanted to make the coil. After some online research I started to build. The basic plan is short (~2.5inch) segments of coat-hanger wire, wrapped with ~200ft of 18 gauge coated wire. 

I found some plastic plugs that would hold the ~1/2 core.



IMG_7130 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I cut down the plugs to be just long enough to get through the 1/4" wood. Cut the coat hanger, and used a couple of nails (I don't have many metal coat hangers any more, they are all plastic...)



IMG_7135 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I wrapped the core in clear packing tape, and I used the cut of parts of the plug to hold the core together.



IMG_7136 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

This allowed me to pour polyurethane in the core. This is recommended based on my readings.



IMG_7138 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Needs some time to dry...



IMG_7142 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Ready to be wrapped.



IMG_7163 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7166 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I turned the lathe head with one hand and kept pressure and guided with the other hand.



IMG_7169 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

After each pass I wrapped with a layer of clear packing tape.



IMG_7171 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7173 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

For the test I held it together with a clamp.



IMG_7182 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I used a 9.6v RC car battery.

Nice spark! If you click the below image it should take you to a short video. 



IMG_7178 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Aug 21, 2017)

Starting with the casting.



IMG_7198 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7201 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7206 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7210 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7218 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Checking fit



IMG_7223 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Following others advise, I put a small steel tip on it.



IMG_7251 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7254 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Soldered in place.



IMG_7257 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

ground back to size.



IMG_7261 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Machined groove for pin.



IMG_7268 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Sitting in place.



IMG_7274 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Aug 21, 2017)

Not really exciting, but needs to get done.



IMG_7277 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I purchased the valve and coupler and made a custom length of pipe to connect them.


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## marksavoca (Sep 26, 2017)

Haven't posted in a while, so here is the latest. Getting close to being complete.

Built some of the hardware, pins and screws.



IMG_7298 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7389 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7391 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_7393 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

I also drilled and tapped the flywheels for setscrews.



IMG_8104 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Mounting the trip lever



IMG_8278 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Gaskets


IMG_8303 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_8305 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Moving to the garage to get it running...



IMG_8300 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Sep 26, 2017)

I can't see any markings on the cam gear to align to the crank gear. There are some diagrams that show the cam at tdc and -8 deg. 

I could see fuel being 'pushed' out of the carb on compression stroke. Time to try and seat the valves better.

This time I used Bon Ami cleaner with a little water. I tried a few ways to rotate the valve and apply pressure. I found pulling and twisting from the steam to work best.

I used nail polish remover to verify the valves were sealed. 

After a bunch of fussing I'm starting to get close to running. 

It seems like it is not developing enough power.

I removed the spring from the bottom of the mixer.

It runs for only a few seconds. Click the below image to see the video.



IMG_8748 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr

Tomorrow I plan on cleaning the ignitor and buying some fresh fuel (Coleman camping fuel). I'm not sure if it goes bad, but this is a couple of years old. I originally tried regular gas, but the camp fuel seems to do a little better.


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## Jasonb (Sep 27, 2017)

Put your ground wire a lot closer to the ignitor, preferably on one of the studs that hold it to the cylinder, with it on the pipe there is a lot of resistance & joints for the current to flow through.

Make sure your governor is not latching too early, better to get it running fast without missing and then slacken off the governor spring to slow things down.


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## marksavoca (Sep 27, 2017)

Thanks Jason for the advice! New fuel and better ground seems to have done the trick. Still less power and I need to adjust the governor,  but I'm very pleased!

Some videos (click to view):



IMG_8748 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_8803 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_8815 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_8816 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_8822 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## marksavoca (Nov 18, 2017)

I'm a bit behind on posting... Sorry about that. Here is the last set.

I decided that I've seen more rusty old engines than clean, fresh ones so I went  with an aged look.

I also created a small box to house the coil and battery.

The paint technique was to paint a rust colored layer, wet, cover with salt, dry and spray the color. After the salt is washed off you get a very random, aged paint look.

All of the unpainted surfaces were aged with vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and salt.

I put grease on any surface that I did not want rusted.



IMG_9012 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9013 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9030 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9370 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9385 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9402 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9429 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9430 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9447 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9459 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9477 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9557 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9571 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9577 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9566 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr



IMG_9599 by Mark Savoca, on Flickr


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## Jasonb (Nov 18, 2017)

That's a good barn fresh look, makes a change from the immaculately painted ones we usually see. Just the cross head screws in the box hinges that give the game away


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## kuhncw (Nov 18, 2017)

Nicely done.  It was painful to see your finely machined parts rusting in that chemical bath, but your end result came out very well.  You've certainly achieved a well weathered look and that must have been more difficult than a shiny and bright finish.

Chuck


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## Cogsy (Nov 18, 2017)

I wondered about your approach to finishing as you described it, but I can't argue with the result - looks like the real deal. Nice!


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## Blogwitch (Nov 19, 2017)

Beautiful piece of weathering work there Mark.

Having built scale model boats for many many years I can appreciate the work that is involved getting that scale look, in fact, sometimes, it takes as long to get that finish than it usually does to make the model.

Absolutely wonderful


John


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## MRA (Nov 19, 2017)

That looks really great.  I was almost imagining you setting to with a #80 drill bit to add scale woodworm holes to the skid and box 

I reckon a heavy box like that with big hinges, full-scale, would use square-head coach screws to hold them on.  That might not be impossible to scale down?

cheers
Mark


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