# Some of my stuff...



## Florian (Apr 26, 2008)

I think its the best place to show you all my projects... 
This is the second steam engine i have built:



























And here with additional displacemet oiler:













to be continued soon...


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## chuck foster (Apr 26, 2008)

very nice steam engine, could you give use some details on the engine (bore,stroke, flywheel size ect)?
a video of it running would be nice ;D
i noticed a very neat looking boiler in the last picture, did you build it?

keep up the great work.

chuck


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## Florian (Apr 26, 2008)

Hi chuck

Here are the tecincal info's:

The base is from an old sewing machine which i once disassembled. When i saw the base i immediately thought that this would be the ideal base for a steam engine.
Bore is 28 mm, stroke something about 45 to 50 mm (im not shure anymore..)
The flywheel has 100 mm diameter and is 40 mm wide. 



Some weeks ago, i modified my steam engine:








As im using this steam engine along with my scotch boiler and as my scotch boiler has a ckech valve for feed water, i also added an axle driven pump:







I will have to add a bypass-valve because the pump delievers too much water...

Florian


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## Florian (Apr 26, 2008)

Of course i also have some videos:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zCsiKE7Y40]Video 1[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lndSlx94H_U]Video 2[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi1zKu__-A8]Video 3[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=javYbSHa8A4]Video 4[/ame]


With the windows directly inserted in the answer, it didn't work... so i've just put the links...

Florian


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## Brass_Machine (Apr 26, 2008)

Nice looking engine and boiler you got there Florian!

Eric


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## Florian (Apr 26, 2008)

Some more infos about the boiler:

1. Its homemade... 
2. The idea for this boiler has been educed from the principle of a scotch boiler, combined with some own ideas.































The boiler can be filled with one liter of water. The burner didn't work so well, i'll have to find another one which works better. (I have an idea, maybe i'm goning to build one by myself)


It takes in about 12 to 15 minutes to steam up 
Working pressure is 3 bar, it has been tested by 4.5 bar during an hour. The reversing chamber is equiped with fireclay pieces to keep the heat inside.
The boiler seems to be very efficient, the exhaust gases are something about 150°C.

Florian


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## Brass_Machine (Apr 26, 2008)

I like that boiler.

Eric


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## Florian (Apr 26, 2008)

I wanted to have a whistle on this boiler and so i built one:







And here the whistle in action:


Whisthle in Action

Florian


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## rake60 (Apr 26, 2008)

I have never built a boiler or run a model on live steam.

New inspirations here everyday.

Thank for sharing the videos Florian! 

Rick


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## Brass_Machine (Apr 26, 2008)

rake60  said:
			
		

> I have never built a boiler or run a model on live steam.
> 
> New inspirations here everyday.
> 
> ...



Wish I would have known that when I came out to see you... I would have brought my boiler with me. We could have fired up something!

Next time.

Eric


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

Did you guys think that's all my stuff? 
 ;D
No.... I got a lot more to show you: 

This is a small table plant i made for my godfather two years ago:













And now this november, i made another one for someone else, from here you will see the stepwise becoming of a tamble steam plant (nearly could call it a pocket steam plant... :big


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)




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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

The second engine has the following specifications:

bore: 8mm 
stroke: 8mm
flywheel dia.: 25 mm, 8 mm wide
The wooden base is made from mahogani and is 10 cm to 14 cm 

And of course, i have some videos:


blablabla


blablabla


Florian


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## gilessim (Apr 27, 2008)

That's some fantastic work there Florian, I love the boilers, how did you dome over the copper ends exactly?, it doesn't look like you just used a hammer.

Giles


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

I used a piece of wood (i don't know the word for it... its a template for driving sheet metal...)
And the hammer i used was a blow back proof hammer with plastic end caps.


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## Greg (Apr 27, 2008)

Florian, 

Can you provide more details about your burner design and the fuel that it uses.
Great looking project, I like the drip pan for catching the water droplets, clever.

Greg


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

The burner uses denaturated alcohol;

On the outside of the boiler housig, you can see the fuel tank. 

In the housing, there is just a horizontal tube which carries two vertical tubes. In these two vertical tubes there is some cotton. I stupidly don't have any more photos because this engine also was a gift for someone.

Florian


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## Circlip (Apr 27, 2008)

Beautiful craftsmanship Florian, But we wouldn't be able to use Brass in the boiler construction in the UK. Regards Ian.
 The outer casing and the fire tube that is, but nevertheless superb.


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

I don't use brass anymore... ;


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## Bogstandard (Apr 27, 2008)

Circlip,

Because of the new 3bar/litre ruling in the UK, you could, in theory use a baked bean tin for a boiler. 
The reason brass is frowned upon, is not because of its lack of strength, but because of its de-zincing qualities, where zinc is leeched out of the brass by hot water, and minute holes appear in the brass. There are now new breeds of brass about that don't suffer from this tendency.

Brass is still being used for low pressure boilers, as it has been since almost the turn of the 19th/20th century, by companies such as Wilesco and Mamod.

John


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## Circlip (Apr 27, 2008)

Yep, you've echoed what I said about Mamods on another forum, but like you've related John, low pressure. I wouldn't trust it on a firetube type boiler though, personal preference.  Regards Ian.


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

And now another engine; scratchbuilt trough and through: 


























Specifications:

Bore: 14 mm 
Stroke: 28 mm
Pistonrod dia. : 3 mm
Valve rod dia. : 3 mm
valve stroke: 2 mm (its being reduced by the lever in the middle, i first designed another valve but it didn't work. Then i redesigned and now it works very good.

The flywheel has 10 cm diameter and the crank is ball beared.
Later on, i added a cross clamp guidance (is that the correct expression?)

In the future, the engine will get a new base but ill wait until i have the boiler and i build it all on a tray. 


Florian


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## cfellows (Apr 27, 2008)

Nice looking engine. Looks like you got about a $100 worth of brass there at today's prices! :

Chuck


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## malcolmt (Apr 27, 2008)

Hi there Florian
may i say what excellent work you have produced. 
keep it up !
Kind regards
Malcolm


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

I think you all kind of expected to see some more things from me, you were right! 































Its a little steam engine with a stephenson reverse gear. 
And now: All the cylinderhead-screws are M2 screws; their head has 4 mm diameter. 
The Flywheel has 40 mm diameter. 
Bore: 8mm
Stroke: 9.5 mm
Valve-stroke: 2mm 

It looks very good like that, but it does not work that great and so i decided to modify it:


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

This is the new sliding valve for the engine:
























Note that the screws used are M 1.2 screws, that means the threads have 1.2 mm diameter and the head has 2 mm width across flat.


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

Thats the new flywheel, the old one had not enough mass.














Here you can see, how i machined the cylinder bore as i do not own a fitting reamer:


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

And now reassembled with new cylinder unit, new flywheel and new base, made from brass. The crank is ball beared to reduce friction (which was to high with the original bearings)


























I also tested it and i started smiling and wouldn't stop for half an hour or so  I really was happy when i saw it working that great. 
Here, i have no videos, because the boiler does not exist up to now. But i already know what im going to built. :wink:


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## zeusrekning (Apr 27, 2008)

Florian, How does your tool post grinder work? I have thought about doing something like that myself. Any suggestion?
Tim


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## Florian (Apr 27, 2008)

It works... not bad. But it could be better. And that's why i am going to build a better one.


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## Paolo (Apr 27, 2008)

Wanderfull nice...especially your nice flanges..very well done!!!
Paolo


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## Bogstandard (Apr 27, 2008)

Tim,

To make a cheapish toolpost grinder, buy a real cheap small router and hack it up to get the main motor and nose bit out. Sometimes they are separate anyway , the early B&D ones were. They have a very rigid bearing setup in the nose to take the sideways forces and get up to a fair wack in speed. You just might need to make up a collet to fit your bonded stones shaft, but they are dead easy to make. I made one for a friend and it works a dream.
It isn't worth buying expensive stuff because you only use one very occasionally, and I doubt if you would ever wear one out. It is a lot cheaper than ruining your expensive Dremels.
I made a banjo shaped holder that fitted around the router nose and was put into a QCT. All you need then is a fixed diamond dresser to trim the stone parallel to the lathe bed.
If you have compressed air, I have seen cheap pneumatic die grinders used to good effect as a toolpost grinder, again, these have a well supported nose, designed for sideways pressures, also the pressure can be reduced for slower running with a larger outside grinding wheel. Not that you use a lot of sideways force, in fact there should hardly be any, it is just the rigidity you are after, usually lacking in small hand held mini drills.
You are supposed to run the stone in opposite directions when doing either internal or external grinding, my commercial grinder runs in both directions by flicking a switch. You can get away with it by running the lathe chuck in reverse.

John


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## zeusrekning (Apr 27, 2008)

Thanks John, I have an old angle grinder that the ring gear in the head went out on. What RPM would be optimal?
Tim


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## Florian (Apr 28, 2008)

HI

And the story goes on...

some of you may have noticed the loco in the background of the boiler pictures.
That will be a german BR 38 / P8 but to complete, there is still a lot of work to be done. 

However, i one day decided to try a locomotive boiler before building the one for my steam loco. I have made a lot of pictures while building it but you can see it below:












When driving, i always had one piece of sheet on the mold and two cooling down from annealing. 












This is the production of driving and annealing for about 6 to 8 hours.

Florian


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## Florian (Apr 28, 2008)




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## Florian (Apr 28, 2008)

And here production of the fixings:













That's going to be the blower valve. 







And here the whole assortment...


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## Florian (Apr 28, 2008)




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## Florian (Apr 28, 2008)

I am shure you were waiting for this: ;D



































Up to here, i had no fitting pressure gauge so i adjusted the safety valve with an external one. Then the pressure could not get higher than 2 bar


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## Florian (Apr 28, 2008)

Thats the first steam up:


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## Florian (Apr 28, 2008)

Up to here i just fired the boiler with the blower. I first needed to make a nozzle for the exhaust steam.


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## Florian (Apr 28, 2008)

Here, the blower for the exhaust steam is ready to use:








I had to modify the water gauge as its level raised for 10 mm when i took steam out of the boiler. I also added two brass rods to protect the glass.


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## J. Tranter (Apr 28, 2008)

That is beautiful work. I've been trying to look for plans for a loco. Are those your own plans or did you get some some where?
John T.


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## Brass_Machine (Apr 29, 2008)

Wow. I am flabbergasted. Thats some nice work you got going on.

Eric


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## Florian (Apr 29, 2008)

J. Tranter  said:
			
		

> That is beautiful work. I've been trying to look for plans for a loco. Are those your own plans or did you get some some where?
> John T.



Hi John

I have no plans... its just scratchbuilt with a few self made sketches. 

Florian


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## Paolo (Apr 29, 2008)

WELL DONE Florian..really!!! :bow: :bow: :bow:
Paolo


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## Florian (Apr 29, 2008)

A week after finishing, i received the pressure gauge i ordered:













I also added a bleeder to the water gauge to improve its operability:


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## Florian (Apr 29, 2008)

And, afther presenting the whole project, i have some Videos (That's what you all were waiting for... right? ;D )

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## Bernd (Apr 30, 2008)

Ahhh, nothing like the sound of a steam engine running under steam. 

 Very nice work Florin. 

Bernd


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