# Newbie and the Flywheel(s)



## Foozer (Apr 6, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt


The time has come the Walrus said, ya he forgot however about the bride who lacks mechanical understanding. So after replacing the clutch in her car again . . . time to start teasing a flywheel out of some stock.

I can see it hiding in there, three tapered spokes, its just how the heck am I gonna get it out. First thing I suppose is to establish some reference points that regardless of how many times I end up fiddling with the stock I can always return to a known state.

So I stare at it and decide I need these three points that i can index to, one set each side. OK, now as I do not have a RT how to evenly space the desired points went thru many incantations mostly ending in Nope thats a waste. Hand lay them out, not gonna happen for me, be a mile plus a block off that way. So the DUH came to mind and a quick wip up returned the following gizmo. . . . . . . . . . Chuckles over








Then saw blades are cheap and accurately cut. A simple spindle and some double stick tape to hold the stock to the blade gives me the poor mans version of a round de round measuring device. Blade is 24 teeth so with a drop pin engaging one tooth the first of my future reference points is located. Turn blade 8 teeth and do the next mark. One more and this side is done.

To do the other side, removed stock and spotted holes in the saw same as the blank stock. set a small ball bearing at each point, replaced stock setting the previous little divit holes over the ball bearings, secured it down just enough oomph to maintain position with a short hunk of stock and bolt in spindle (not shown) spot drilled the other three and now I have evenly spaced points of reference on both sides of the future flywheel.

Figure that whatever error is inherient to the saw tooth spacing will be reduced, is reduced as one gets closer to the center of rotation. Something like that.

So, step one is done and I'm working this out with AL before trying it on brass. Time will tell if stone axes and flint knives will do this job or not


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## Kermit (Apr 6, 2009)

nice adaptation there Foozer. ;D


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## Foozer (Apr 6, 2009)

Kermit  said:
			
		

> nice adaptation there Foozer. ;D



One thing for sure, if its oddball I'll find it. I cant even draw it out right. Best is following attempt at what i want it to look like shown in my working up a jig to cut some of it out. (the straight sides of the spokes) Worry about the curved portions later. Desire the spokes to taper in about 6 degrees from the inner hub to the outer ring. Do have an idea on how to do it with the lathe, which should be as entertaining as the saw blade gizmo. Me thinks a lot of coffee is gonna be required for this attempt.


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## Foozer (Apr 17, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​

Finally got to a point where some actually part making can begin. Plan is to make two of em so a repeatable methodology to the cutting is the only way i can do it. "e.g. JIG" New face plate made up for this task which turns out to be a tad less than simple than i first thought. As I am going to try and have some tapered spokes the mounting of the stock became a bit of a mind tease for me. As the angle of the stock is pulled away from the face plate, the shaft center line changes. As my choice of angle was 6 degrees it worked out to about a 0.078 inch change. 

Used my fancy dancy poor mans index jig to set 6 points on the perimeter of the stock, subtracted 0.078 from that diameter and located an index point into the face plate. Drilled and tapped this index for a 10-24, set in a pointed screw at 0.100 above the plate surface. (6 o'clock position) Made a small 6 degree tapered shim and fastened that to the face plate. last index at the 12 o'clock is another 10-24 pointed screw to hopefully the stock will, as it goes through its relocation's for metal removal some sort of relative standard can be maintained.






Other issues that have come to mind is to account for the stocks angle when cutting around the inner hub. Have to remember to increase its diameter enough to leave the inner portion close to finish size without hosing up the hub itself. (account for the 6 degree offset). The outer ring I'll twist my brain over later in coming up with an acceptable radius that will give an appealing look within the limits of my meager abilities.

This may turn out to be one hunk of scrap, but a learning experance none the less.


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## bearcar1 (Apr 17, 2009)

Greetings Foozer, An interesting and ingenious method of indexing. I have seen that one done before but have never had cause to try it. I certainly am not laughing as you should see some of the 'oddball' setups I have done in the past due to not having access to a RT. Does your lathe have a top slide on the compound? If yes, couldn't you machine the tapers using it to achieve the desired 6* of taper?


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## Foozer (Apr 17, 2009)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> Greetings Foozer, An interesting and ingenious method of indexing. I have seen that one done before but have never had cause to try it. I certainly am not laughing as you should see some of the 'oddball' setups I have done in the past due to not having access to a RT. Does your lathe have a top slide on the compound? If yes, couldn't you machine the tapers using it to achieve the desired 6* of taper?



Lathe does have a top slide and along those lines the thought did occur 'bout halfway through making this gizmo. Had a hunk of 1/2" angle that already had some slots cut into it, so figured an adjustable holder could be made so I could with some degree of accuracy drill the required holes into the flywheel defining the spokes. Some brass round stock set on a movable plate, couple 1/4 - 20s to clamp it down, few bits and bobs for setup and, well time shall tell. Also to use it to cut out the spokes, at least I hope so  Thats when the light went on with the loud DUH! Set it at 6* and poof! the spoke angle is done. 






Dont know which route I shall take, still favor face plate work, or the solving of "How To" is perhaps the satisfaction ityself more than the finished product.


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## Foozer (Apr 19, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​
Went the face plate route and got the rough out on the flywheel done. Three tapered surfaces without to much fanfare. Takes a lot longer to get the setup than the actual cutting.






Time to set the stock on a flat plate and measure each face for depth. Should have about 0.050 excess for the finish left WAS SURE THE TOOL POST WAS TIGHT, well it moved, so what was going to be the front face now becomes the rear face, the inner hub dia on that side is flexible. So I'm thinking a bit of sandpaper 'tween the tool holder and base might reduce the chance of movement. Could just do a 2-eye tight but that sinking feeling of the bolt getting looser is one pleasure I'd rather avoid.

Still dont know how this will turn out, kinda like the split taper line, would look good to have that feature as a spoke center line.


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## Macca (Apr 19, 2009)

> Does your lathe have a top slide on the compound? If yes, couldn't you machine the tapers using it to achieve the desired 6* of taper?


By angling the top slide what you are producing is a cone. That means that the face of each spoke will be curved. The way Foozer has done it means he has three distinct flat surfaces (a triangular pyramid) meaning the spokes will have flat faces. (Or 'V' shaped, depending on placement.)
I don't think I would have even considered the faceplate approach before, but know that I know it gives a significantly different result I will keep the technique in mind. The only thing to watch out for is to make sure you cut to the same depth each time, otherwise the flat areas will be different sizes.


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## bearcar1 (Apr 19, 2009)

I agree there Macca, when I first read the post I thought that the spokes were going to be either thicker at the hub end and tapering to thin at the rim, axially or the other way around and could not for the life of me see where the design was headed, under those assumptions. Now that I have actually seen what has been accomplished, I understand better. I like the idea of having the 'peaked' spokes. They could be quite attractive and give a certain look to a model. 

BC1


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## Foozer (Apr 21, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​

Me thinks Roosevelt never tried to cut out a flywheel  This bite of the apple is getting a bit chewy.

Set up the trial AL flywheel in the jig I made that attaches to the cross slide. Idea was to simulate a mill. It gives me some X & Y travel with the lathe feed screw furnishing the Y (I think those are the correct terms) So once the 0,0 position is found I can move the stock to the coordinates required to spot the holes that will define the spokes.






Limitations or design issues have cropped up with this method, its not a mill nor do I have a rotary table, so adjustments to the spoke angles need to be made to fit within these limits. Smallest degree of accurate rotation I can deal with using this gizmo is 15*, drawing calls for 12 and that's just not gonna happen. Learn and adjust as one goes along.

Bride just blew the back window out on her car, slammed it down (hatchback) with something a bit bigger than the enclosed area and POOF! there goes $329.00 us bucks. Last month she blows the clutch, hate to think what May will bring. You know if I had a mill I'd just try and get it to do things best suited for some other machine.


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## itowbig (Apr 21, 2009)

watching with great intrest. very creative with the saw blade . many thank u's for showing us your work.


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## mklotz (Apr 21, 2009)

The saw blade is indeed a good way to make a divider. (You can tell you're a real machinist if you count the teeth on every saw blade you see, fondly hoping for a prime number.)

However, manual layout of any even multiple of six divisions is dead simple. (And, obviously, once you've got six divisions you also have three.)

For six divisions, scribe a circle (radius doesn't matter) with your dividers. Then, without altering the setting of the dividers, begin laying out divisions on the circle. You'll automatically get exactly six since the radius of any circle is also equal to the chord length if divided into six segments.

Use another pair of dividers (so you won't disturb the setting on the first) to bisect one of the six arcs. Then, using the original dividers, go around the circle again. Now you've got twelve divisions. Repeat as necessary to get 24, 48, ... divisions.


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## Foozer (Apr 21, 2009)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> However, manual layout of any even multiple of six divisions is dead simple. (And, obviously, once you've got six divisions you also have three.)
> 
> For six divisions, scribe a circle (radius doesn't matter) with your dividers. Then, without altering the setting of the dividers, begin laying out divisions on the circle. You'll automatically get exactly six since the radius of any circle is also equal to the chord length if divided into six segments.
> 
> Use another pair of dividers (so you won't disturb the setting on the first) to bisect one of the six arcs. Then, using the original dividers, go around the circle again. Now you've got twelve divisions. Repeat as necessary to get 24, 48, ... divisions.



If I read it right, it follows this diag






Slick as Duck Poo, thanks for the method from this math challenged one


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## mklotz (Apr 22, 2009)

Yes, indeed. You've got it.

For divisions other than multiples of six, you can use the CHORD program on my page. You input the number of divisions and the diameter of the circle and it responds with the chord length. Set your dividers to the chord length* and mark off the circle. Not as accurate as an indexer but often good enough to get the job done and you don't need to try to find a saw blade with 11 (or whatever) teeth.

--
* Most easily done with a scale that has engraved divisions. Place one divider point in the "1" division and the other point in the chord+1 division. With engraved divisions you can "feel" when you're in the right one.

Another way to do this is with a pair of beater calipers. Set the calipers to the chord length and use the sharp points on the inside measurement jaws to divide the circle. Obviously, this is abuse of the tool (hence the beater comment) but, if you're gentle and don't do this on a regular basis, you'll get by.


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## Foozer (Apr 22, 2009)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> Yes, indeed. You've got it.
> 
> For divisions other than multiples of six, you can use the CHORD program on my page. You input the number of divisions and the diameter of the circle and it responds with the chord length. Set your dividers to the chord length* and mark off the circle. Not as accurate as an indexer but often good enough to get the job done and you don't need to try to find a saw blade with 11 (or whatever) teeth.



So you were the one watching me at the hardware 

I have downloaded a few of your programs, the playing around inputting various configurations really helps with the "How To" for layouts


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## Foozer (Apr 22, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​
Try number 2, just did not like the first one. Must remember to account for the cutting tool width when determining the start and stop points. Also changed the tapered shim that goes between the stock and faceplate from not quite wide enough to wider than the stocks diameter. Without the full support , well much better now. An actual workable piece thats awaiting the next OOPS






Surfaces measure out to equal depth +/- 0.005 thou, now its time to figure out the actual spoke layout pattern. 3 with a flat face of with the V line down the center. First choice lot simpler, guess its time to flip the coin


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## Foozer (Apr 23, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​
Time to make the ol AA109 work now

Well there was no way around it, had to get a small RT. Little 3" job from Harbor Fright. layout on a flywheel that would just have holes as a pattern, no problem, but spokes, that bird requires a fancier shotgun.

So mounted the RT up in the lathe on the cross slide accessory gizmo. Took a bit to locate the 0,0 point having to kinda view it all sideways.






Worked out the hole pattern






Plan on using a 3/8 end mill 2-flute to cut the holes as the faces are angled.
Got lots of time and plenty of coffee.


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## Foozer (Apr 28, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​
Well, that bite of the Apple, lets just say it was green. The attempted method may be possible and I think I'll give it another shot after I get some more metal cutting time under the belt

So, some aspirin and a look at what remains, its off to plan B

Got a nice hunk of brass ring left from the adventure, Hmm, a piece of 1/4" AL flat stock, OK another adventure to embark upon. Fit the AL into the ring with a brass hub type flywheel. Shall cut out the spokes then fit it up. This seems a tad less ambitious, shall see how it goes






Cleaned up the rim and cut a small recess for the AL to be pressed against. Thinking around a 0.002 - 0.003 interference fit should hold it. Cool of the AL and warm the brass, squeeze it together in the press, when its back at room temp shouldn't budge.

This is addicting, keep putting off the other things need doing around the place


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## Maryak (Apr 28, 2009)

Foozer,

Sorry things didn't go according to Hoyle, but that's the way the mop flops sometimes. 

Just a thought but would it be possible to cut the spkes 1st and then do your very nice trick with the faceplate. ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## Kermit (Apr 28, 2009)

I truly admire your "stuff" Foozer. Never say die. Unless your talking to the metal, of course. ;D

I'm currently "trying" different cuts and angles with my tools. It hasn't happened yet, but soon, I'm gonna break or throw something just because I'm new and don't know anything yet. It makes me just a little hesitant everytime I turn the lathe on. Wondering and then re-thinking it again and still not being "sure" until after I've switched it on. Just knowing that its bound to happen and not knowing WHEN.  

AHHHHHH!  The suspense of it all. ;D


respectfully,
Kermit


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## Foozer (Apr 28, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Foozer,
> 
> Sorry things didn't go according to Hoyle, but that's the way the mop flops sometimes.
> 
> ...



Was a cute error (hate to say operator) that caused the mayhem. Wanted a method to lock the cross slide in place so did a mod similar to the one detailed here http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=950.0. Issue awoke as the gib is held in place with pointed screws. Didnt take long for the points to dig in letting the gib come loose when I moved the slide. Have repaired the mod by spotting a small indent into the gib strip with a center drill and then rounded over the gib screw points. They should now rest in place without digging in when I lock the slide. 

Next crack at it will be as you suggest, cut spokes first, then the taper


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## Foozer (Apr 28, 2009)

Kermit  said:
			
		

> I truly admire your "stuff" Foozer. Never say die. Unless your talking to the metal, of course. ;D
> 
> I'm currently "trying" different cuts and angles with my tools. It hasn't happened yet, but soon, I'm gonna break or throw something just because I'm new and don't know anything yet. It makes me just a little hesitant everytime I turn the lathe on. Wondering and then re-thinking it again and still not being "sure" until after I've switched it on. Just knowing that its bound to happen and not knowing WHEN.
> 
> ...



The more I learn the less I know. Sometimes, well , most of the time you just go and do it. OK think it out as best as can be first then give it a shot. Never fails that the most obvious item is over looked. Thing that stays to the forefront is safety, One can always get another hunk of metal, fingers on the other hand . . .

Should of seen me raise a 47 foot tower for the little windmill, how one can plan out the process and completely miss the fact that a tree was smack dab in the way, long story short, twas' off to the store for another piece of pipe. Good side was the reinforcement of "Everyone stay clear of the work area"

Its gonna happen, thats a fact, all we can do is try and plan for it to minimize the unwanted results when Murphy makes the appearance.


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## Foozer (Apr 29, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​
Gonna try this route for the insert pattern







Still has a bit of part relocating involved so that should keep me busy. Results good or bad, same time, same channel


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## bearcar1 (Apr 29, 2009)

G'morning Fooz', sorry to see your initial go of it was not successful.  I do like your newest spoke design pattern but may I point out that if that particular flat is pressed into the rim there is not a lot of contact area. Being that the only surface area being mated is the ends of the four fingers. Perhaps ??? if you were to machine a thin concentric rim to connect up the spokes it would reap the benefit of having more surface to press in as well as giving the entire assembly more stability. Just some thoughts. Thank you for allowing me to share them and good luck this time around. :bow:

Cheers

BC1


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## Foozer (Apr 29, 2009)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> G'morning Fooz', sorry to see your initial go of it was not successful.  I do like your newest spoke design pattern but may I point out that if that particular flat is pressed into the rim there is not a lot of contact area. Being that the only surface area being mated is the ends of the four fingers. Perhaps ??? if you were to machine a thin concentric rim to connect up the spokes it would reap the benefit of having more surface to press in as well as giving the entire assembly more stability. Just some thoughts. Thank you for allowing me to share them and good luck this time around. :bow:
> 
> Cheers
> 
> BC1



Does look a bit spindly doesn't it. I think my little AA109 agrees with you for after setting up the stock on the face plate, the 'THUNK' was heard when I went to put the plate on the spindle." HEY wadda mean the diameter is too big?" 

So after relocating the blank to fit within the machine's limits the ends of the spokes do widen up some, 'bout double in contact area. End product is going to be a Finger Engine so RPM caused instability should equal my own level of sanity 

The sun is out, yard needs mowing and I'll spend the day in the Barn chipping metal, what more could a guy ask for.


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## Foozer (Apr 29, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​

Little time avoiding the yard mowing. Got the insert set up within the limits of the lathe  and cut out the spokes. Guess its a Maltese Cross type pattern. Really going to have to improve on hole locations i.e. bigger magnifying device.






Next up, turn the OD to fit the rim ID. Happy Happy Joy Joy


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## bearcar1 (Apr 29, 2009)

If you keep this up Fooz', Orange County Choppers will be looking to hire your talents. ;D I'm liking it so far. That extra 'width' at the ends of the spokes should give you quite a bit more support than your original plan, of course a piece out of brass and some solder .............. :

BC1


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## Foozer (Apr 30, 2009)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> If you keep this up Fooz', Orange County Choppers will be looking to hire your talents. ;D I'm liking it so far. That extra 'width' at the ends of the spokes should give you quite a bit more support than your original plan, of course a piece out of brass and some solder .............. :
> 
> BC1



This one is about as big as I have nerve to ride or Putt Putt around this island on. 1966 Honda CL77, Spent a lot of "Garage" time restoring it. Like everything else, the fun is in the project, when its done, well i have only put a tad over a hundred miles on it over the past couple years.






Just a bit of tweaking on the flywheel web to do and then its oven - freezer time


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## Foozer (May 1, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​
Heated and chilled the parts, ended up with a 0.006 interference fit. Went together will very little pressure. Used a blank piece slightly smaller than the inserts OD to even the force while pumping the handle on the 20 ton press. Went right into place with no fanfare. I like the pattern just dont like the outcome. On to try number 3, make another pair of inserts taking greater care in the hole location i.e much bigger magnifying glass and a few good whacks upon the drill press with a 10 pound singe jack just for the heck of it.






A bit more math for the hole spacing is in order, have to go through the programs that one member of this board graciously provides and see if resolution exist.


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## bearcar1 (May 1, 2009)

Foozer, I still like the looks of it, even with the character flaws. You're onto something here nd I cant wait to see the next generation, BTW, has OCC called you yet? ;D

BC1


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## Brass_Machine (May 3, 2009)

Foozer...

Very nice. I actually like the second incarnation better than your first. Nice job.

Eric


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## Foozer (May 3, 2009)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> Foozer...
> 
> Very nice. I actually like the second incarnation better than your first. Nice job.
> 
> Eric



Yup it does have that cute look, making another set of inserts to reduce the "Character Flaws" Just have to realize that when it comes to ambition versus the drill press, what the drill press wants, the drill press gets 

Shall see how the next day or two goes. so far the desires of the drill press are minimal, close to the sandblast the insert stage, rounds all the edges off and I sorta like the 'cast' look it gives, press the new version in, clean it up a tad and get the hub done. Ya all that stuff.

You guys make it look so easy


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## Foozer (May 5, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​
Tinkering around working on the tapered hub for this exercise. If I knew any better . . .

Bad photo, camera argues on macro shots, not enough meat 'tween the inner most spoke hole and the hub cutout. When the web was pressed into the flywheel rim a collapse occurred, that little line seen in the shot. Lesson learned, more meat 'tween openings and/or mounting web to hub first to act as material support.






Least I'm getting practice in on making the webs


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## cfellows (May 5, 2009)

Nice looking flywheel design. I don't normally get too excited about anything other than a 5 or 6 spoked, traditional flywheel, but I like this one!

Chuck


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## Foozer (May 5, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Nice looking flywheel design. I don't normally get too excited about anything other than a 5 or 6 spoked, traditional flywheel, but I like this one!
> 
> Chuck



I'm burning through the flat stock on this, so far score is Metal 1, Me 0. Game not over yet.

5 or 6 spokes, hmm, time to order up a few more feet of plate stock


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## Foozer (May 6, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​

Getting to the spooky part now. Turning the taper lock hub. Set the slide to 4 degrees or as close as could with a protractor. Set a hunk of brass stock and used the home brewed steady rest to bore the internal taper to size, (0.600 inch down to near 0.500 ?) So without moving the slide angle set in a piece of AL, drilled and bored the center hole to 0.373 - 0.375 and then set the machine in reverse and cut the external taper to match up with the brass hunk. Its a low and slow process, fingers get tired from turning that little wheel and always on guard for that OH NO! the chuck un-threaded itself. Lots of light cuts later the two fit up. 






Chucker head me gave it a little tap and well, tomorrow I will ponder getting them apart 






Bit more to do untill the dreaded tapping itty bitty holes comes up. With my clucky hands breaking 1/4-20 taps is easy. Those little ones bring out an array of colorful language.


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## mklotz (May 6, 2009)

> Bit more to do untill the dreaded tapping itty bitty holes comes up. With my clucky hands breaking 1/4-20 taps is easy. Those little ones bring out an array of colorful language.



Make yourself some tap alignment tools as outlined here...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=464.0

in Reply #10.

Swap these in in place of the tap drill immediately after drilling the tap hole. You'll automatically be dead on-line and the guide pin will prevent you from bending the tap, a major cause of breakage in the smaller sizes.


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## Foozer (May 7, 2009)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> Make yourself some tap alignment tools as outlined here...
> 
> http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=464.0



Absolutely, nothing worse than staring at a broken tap, unless of course the bride gets wind of yet again another talented move.

So today got the hub fairly well done, surprised at the grip the tapered joint has. Being a little chicken at drilling the other spoke holes, gonna have to use the lathe to do them this time, another day task. Not much to see but getting closer.


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## Foozer (May 8, 2009)

At the suggestion of mklotz, made a tap holder for a 4-40 tap. Did a 2 piece sliding unit with a spring to keep some sense of alignment as the tap enters the hole.






After rigging up the little RT to the lathe cross slide, awkward to center the gizmo bit a few cups of coffee and some edge finder time got it acceptable. Trick now is to remember that only 4 of the holes go into the hub itself, other 2 of the 6 are for the release screws. 






Just another day in Paradise . .


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## bearcar1 (May 8, 2009)

Looking good Fooz', I also should make up a tap guide. I think I will steal your method of using a spring for a bit of tension when starting. Maybe I can get patent on it. ;D I appreciate your new avatar as well, can you make it spin the opposite direction? :big:

BC1


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## Foozer (May 9, 2009)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> I appreciate your new avatar as well, can you make it spin the opposite direction? :big:
> 
> BC1



Done, now if I can get the actually version to look like the picture.


Tapped the holes, lot easier than I thought. Funny how a straight hole and tap guide ease the process. The AL cage is set into a dead center in the spindle, spring inside keeps the tap assembly in contact as the tap is drawn in. makes me want to get a knurling tool now . Not exactly quick, but sure better than a broken tap making scrap out of hours worth of work.







And an idea of the end product, time for the studs and nuts, getting close to the dreaded "Does it Wobble Stage" One bridge at a time






And YUP at times it is 1 step forward, 2 steps back


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## bearcar1 (May 9, 2009)

I am so liking the looks of that FW Fooz'. I'm sure that if it does have a tad bit of wobble it can be easily rectified. 

Cheers

BC1


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## Foozer (May 10, 2009)

Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.
Theodore Roosevelt​
Done with it for now. The little AA109 comes through again (the new Taig soft jaw chuck helped a lot) Will probably polish up the rim after I figure what it is I'm going to fab around it. Still on a finger engine theme, "polish isn't really in my genes, I don't even wash the car but once a year.






Time to clean the shop, blew a crank bearing on my old putt putt so have another bit of wrenching to do.

So far the crank and flywheel are solely the results of reading and gathering info the post from those of you so kind as to share your wisdom.

That taper lock hub really has a grip to it, without the release screws play heck getting it apart.

Bob


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## Maryak (May 11, 2009)

Fooz,

Two really excellent parts, soon you'll have an engine. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Foozer (May 11, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Fooz,
> 
> Two really excellent parts, soon you'll have an engine. :bow: :bow:
> 
> ...



Thanks from this newbie, do wish that I left the center drill spots on the crank though,all future times they stay. Flywheel has no wobble on a straight piece of stock, but the 0.002 or so run out on the crank I thought was OK shows itself a bit now. Just another bridge that I'll cross down the road. Live and learn


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## bearcar1 (May 11, 2009)

And we see that you have added a crank web(s) to your avatar as well  Nicely done FW Fooz', the 'satin' finish on the sides of the rim are interesting as well, gives the piece a bit of a jewelry look. I can't wait to see the remainder of what you have in mind.

BC1


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## cfellows (May 11, 2009)

You have a good eye for form, Foozer. And, very nice execution!

You manage to squeeze a lot of performance out of that little Craftsman lathe!

Chuck


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## Foozer (May 11, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> You have a good eye for form, Foozer. And, very nice execution!
> 
> You manage to squeeze a lot of performance out of that little Craftsman lathe!
> 
> Chuck



Thank you for the kind words. The 'Form' for this flywheel was just salvage a piece of brass that I SO butchered up in my first attempt. I still need to figure a method to cut out the web better with what I have at hand. 

But then "I have a lathe" I can make it 

Bob


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## Foozer (May 11, 2009)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> And we see that you have added a crank web(s) to your avatar as well  Nicely done FW Fooz', the 'satin' finish on the sides of the rim are interesting as well, gives the piece a bit of a jewelry look. I can't wait to see the remainder of what you have in mind.
> 
> BC1



Sandblaster leftovers just in case I needed to skim the sides. Once I isolate the "wobble" (sure its in the crank) I'll, I believe the term is "Bling" the part up.

Now to make its twin, should only take twice as long with half the effort


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