# 1/4 Scale Gade Build



## cheepo45

Hi everyone,
 I just started machining my 1/4 scale Gade hit and miss engine From the casting set from Martin Model and Pattern. The castings look really nice-great detail. 
 Here are some pictures of the flywheel machining.
 1 -Drilling and reaming the crankshaft hole to 5/16".
 2 -Facing the hub and the edge of the flywheel.
 3 -Cutting the keyway with a keyway broach (using my mill-drill for a press)
 4 -Mounting the flywheel on a 5/16" tapered mandrel and machining the o.d. and face.

This is my first motor from castings, so I am being really careful. I don't want to have to replace any!
That's it for today. I will keep posting as the build progresses.


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## maury

'45, that is a really nice kit you are building. I have one myself about half done, been sitting there for a while waiting for other engines to get done. 

A heads up on the crank shaft. The casting is extremely fragile due to the small section. CI is a brittle metal. It's quite likely to break during machining or even when moving the engine after it's done. you might want to consider making one from steel.

maury


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## Harold Lee

This is going to be interesting.... I love the Gade design and will be watching with much interest. Thank for sharing your progress with us.

Harold


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## rudydubya

Another Gade fan here, Cheepo. Will be following with interest. Thanks for letting us tag along.

Regards,
Rudy


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## CMS

Sounds great, I too was a bit apprehensive when I tackled my first gas engine casting kit. And I'll more than likely fill the same when I jump on the second kit also. 
 Do you plan on using skids, or the engine cart kit that Martin Model offers? Good luck and keep us posted.

Craig


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## cheepo45

Here are the completed flywheels. At this rate it should be done in a few years!
 I don't know how you guys build several motors a year! 
 I am planning to use the skids, but we'll see how it looks completed.
 Looking forward to Cabin Fever Expo next week. Hope to see some of you there.


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## Ed Christian

CABIN FEVER IS A GREAT SHOW. I ENJOYED IT MUCH IN THE PAST. IT'S JUST AMAZING.


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## CMS

Don't feel alone, I spent about two years on my Economy casting kit.


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## cheepo45

Had a great time at Cabin Fever Expo. I finally got to do some shop work today. Here are some pics of the cylinder head machining.
              Cheepo45


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## rudydubya

Cheepo, that fixture I see in the chuck holding the head in the bottom two pictures looks like it has multiple cuts and surfaces. Did the kit come with drawings for it or did you have to work it out yourself? And what is the function of the cloth underneath the chuck?

Regards,
Rudy


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## cheepo45

Thanks for your interest. The fixture was loaned to me by another generous HMEM member. We will be working on drawing up some plans-stay tuned...
The rag under the chuck is to keep the abrasive casting dust off the ways of the lathe, (at least that's the plan!).
             Cheepo45


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## cheepo45

I'm making some more progress. I got the valve guides drilled and reamed, and the guides cut to o.d. and height. I also got the spark plug hole drilled and tapped and spot faced. I wish I had more time, but work calls... It really gets in the way of all my hobbies!
                 cheepo45


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## vcutajar

Hi Cheepo45

I am following your build with interest. I was interested in your second photo. I would have never thought I could use a boring head like that. Thanks, I learned something new. Keep the photos coming.

Vince


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## cheepo45

Thanks. I got the boring bar idea from another HMEM member. It worked really well.
              Cheepo45


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## cheepo45

The cylinder head is complete! Here are pics of the port drilling, valve seat cutting, and the completed part. I was a little worried about breaking through the casting while drilling the ports, but with a careful setup it came out perfectly. ;D
                  cheepo45


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## 2manyhobbies

Cheepo - 
Nicely done! What is the next piece? 
Brad


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## cheepo45

Thanks!
 I'm not sure what I will machine next - probably the base and the main caps, then the crankshaft. I will keep posting my progress.


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## cheepo45

Hi Everyone,
 I finally got a chance to get into the shop again. I am starting on the base next. I flycut a piece of aluminum to bolt it to, so I could hold it in the vise and keep everything straight and square. I had to make a couple of drill extensions to clear the cylinder mounting area. Here are a couple of pictures.


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## b.lindsey

Its nice to see that you have found some shop time and are once again making progress. I look forward to following along and know what you mean about work getting in the way all too often. Its not a race so take your time. The work so far looks really good!!! 

Regards,
Bill


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## cheepo45

Thanks, Model Engine building will definitely teach you patience!


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## cheepo45

Hi Everyone,
 Now that the fishing season is slowing down, and it's too hot outside to do lawn work, I cleaned the cobwebs from my shop and actually did some work. I milled the base casting and the main caps, and match drilled and tapped the holes to bolt them together. here are some pics. I am quickly learning that castings require a lot of "fudging" to get things aligned as closely as possible!


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## vcutajar

Glad you are back on the Gade build. You have to be prepared to do a lot of compromises with castings.

Vince


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## idahoan

Hi Cheepo

It is good to see progress on your Gade build; this sure is a nice running model when completed. 
My buddy built one a couple of years ago and I have some castings ageing on the shelf.

Keep the updates comming 

Dave


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## cheepo45

Hi Everyone,
Sorry for the long delay on this build. I had some problems with measurements on my Mill-Drill which led to a mistake on the base casting. It is fixable, but I put it on the shelf while I installed a D.R.O. and changed the belts to link belts. Then I built an Elmer's # 30 to confirm that the machine was working better (and to have something new for Cabin Fever!)
Everything seems to be working well, so I have resumed work on the Gade.
Here are some pictures of the cylinder machining.
I don't get much shop time in the summer, but I will try to post as often as I can.
Does anyone know the HMEM record for the longest build time? I may be in the running!
cheepo45


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## idahoan

Hi Cheepo45

Good to see more progress on the Gade; I started on my Pacific almost a year ago and still have a long ways to go. Life got in the way and with other projects taking front seat it has sat idle for better than a month (or maybe more) now. Hopefully I will be able to get some shop time on it in a week or two.

Dave


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## cheepo45

I finally got back to my Gade build. I made some valves today.
First I rough turned the o.d."s to about .040 oversize and left the stem length about .030 on the long side.
Next I drilled a really small, shallow center in the end. (.025 deep) and brought up the live center.I will face off the .030 extra length and the center later.
Then I used a .030 radius cutter and .005 cuts to take it to size. I had to move the tailstock to get rid of a little taper, but I got it to .0002 over the length of the stem.
I used a boring bar with the lathe turning backwards to cut the 45 degree face, then parted them off.
A quick face cut and a little polishing and I've got some valves!
cheepo45


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## 2manyhobbies

Hey Cheepo - Glad to see you are back at it!  The valves look good.


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## cheepo45

Thanks, 2manyhobbies. I also have too many hobbies! At this rate, I should be done in another 5 years or so 
                  cheepo45


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## cheepo45

Hi Everyone,
  I have been working on some of the small parts for the Gade lately. Here are some pictures. I'm glad to be done drilling all the #60 (.040) holes in the .094 drill rod pins! 
 I hope to see some of you at the Cabin Fever Expo in April.
                cheepo45


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## cheepo45

Hi Everyone,
 I have made some more parts for my Gade project.
 I have completed the piston and pin, and I am working on the crankshaft.
 The piston machined really well. I used a 4 jaw chuck and dialed in the I.D. of the piston casting as close as I could. With some careful machining, I got the O.D. .0005 smaller than the cylinder I.D. for a nice snug fit.
 I just started on the crankshaft. Some builders have expressed concerns with the cast crank breaking. I'm going to carefully machine it and see what happens. The casting I got is somewhat warped, so I set it up on a surface plate and marked the ends at the same centerline as the rod throw to make sure the casting would clean up. It looks like it should be ok. I drilled the centers by clamping it to a right angle plate by the rod throw area to compensate for the warpage. I am using a cutoff blade with a relief ground in the center and radii on the edges to machine the rod journal. so far it is going well.
 Thanks for everyone's patience on this long running project. I hope to post more soon.
   cheepo45


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## 2manyhobbies

Hi cheepo
Nice work!  0.0005" is a very tight piston fit, usually you would like to see a little more, maybe 0.0015-0.002"  this clearance helps accommodate the different rates of expansion between cast iron and aluminum.  Maybe 0.0005 in an engine this small is acceptable?  Just though I would mention this.
Brad


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## cheepo45

Thanks, Brad.
  Glad to see you are still on the forum. The piston clearance is from the plans. Both the cylinder and piston are cast iron, so I hope it will work ok.
 It seemed a little on the tight side to me too, But the general rule of thumb for gasoline engines is .001 clearance per inch of bore size with an aluminum piston. The newer engines are even closer than that. When I get it running (someday!), I will run some 2 stroke oil in the gas for a little extra lubrication.
 cheepo45


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## deverett

Hi cheepo

Is there any advance on the plans for the cylinder head jig mentioned in reply #11 back in 2012?

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## Jasonb

I've got that one sorted Dave


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## 2manyhobbies

I had not been on in quite a while, but I subscribed to this thread, and got a PM from another member, so I decided to catch up.  I forgot that the casting for the engine was CI, I believe I made my piston out of AL, but I would have to look and see!  

Jasonb - Did you make a drawing for the Cyl. head fixture?


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## Jasonb

No, I have a 1/2 scale to make but will use a different method to hold the head, much the same as I did on the Domestic. Same principal of threading the hold down holes and spacing the head off.






Having it in the 4-jaw means all the holes can be done in the lathe and I prefer to turn the valve seat rather than use a countersink. Could be done with your jig if a square block were used rather than round.


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## cheepo45

Nice Fixture, Jason.
      cheepo45


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## cheepo45

Hello everyone,
I have actually made some progress lately on the Gade motor.
The crankshaft is completed. The base casting is machined, and the connecting rod and main bearings are done.
I actually have some parts that move now!
Here are some recent pictures.
cheepo45


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## ksbowhunter

Looking good Cheepo. I haven't really got started on mine yet as I have a few others I want to get done first. I recently picked up a 1/2 scale maytag upright and a 1/2 scale John Deere.


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## jschoenly

Cheepo,

Great looking build.  These Gade's are always a nice looking engine and I am a fan of the air cooled engines.

I saw a while back posting about the longest running build...  Well I start my first engine, a Lil' Brother Air Cooled with Jay Peters when I did some work grinding castings for him.  He helped me a while and I later had some help from my late friend George Luhrs on the engine to keep it going.  Long story short, the engine is still in process and it's been 20 years now.  It is funny how school, projects, shows, life, etc cranks along.  You are making great progress!  Keep it up!


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## cheepo45

Thanks, Everyone for the encouragement. I may have something to show this year at Cabin Fever!
Thanks, Jared for putting on a great show every year. I haven't missed one yet!
cheepo45


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## cheepo45

I got some painting and assembly work done over the weekend.
The Gade is starting to look like something now!
cheepo45


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## Jasonb

Looking good, what finish have you used on the cylinder & head?


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## idahoan

That does look nice!

Good to see some more progress on the Gade

Dave


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## cheepo45

Thanks, everyone!
The cylinder and head are painted with krylon high heat aluminum. I like the flat finish. The base and flywheels are krylon antique red. I want the engine to look like an antique, so I may degloss  the base and flywheels with some scotchbrite.
cheepo45


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## cheepo45

Hi Everyone,
I have been working on the small parts for the governor and cam systems. Things are coming along well, but not without some struggles. Several of the dimensions for the governor system are way off from what they should be. I'm glad I did a lot of dry fitting as I machined the parts, or I would have been making them over. I had to spot face the side of the base casting so the ignition trip would turn, and the dimensions for the cam roller pin and the hit and miss latch bar were off by a lot. I was kind of surprised because all of the rest of the drawings were spot on.
I did get everything working as it should, and I am looking forward to finishing this engine. I still have some springs and other small parts to make and assemble, and then the skids and display box to build. I'm not sure if it will be running at the Cabin Fever show, but it will be on display!
cheepo45


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## cheepo45

Hi Again,
The cold weather has done wonders for my engine building.
I spent the day yesterday assembling and testing my ignition system. I am using a T.I.M. from Jerry Howell. I had purchased the kit several years ago for the Farm Boy that I haven't built yet. It looks like it should work fine for the Gade.
I haven't built any electronic circuits for quite a few years, but it all came back to me and the kit went together well. The only issue I had was that one of the resistors was missing from the kit, A quick trip to Radio Shack got me the part I needed and a nice battery holder. It puts out a nice blue spark when triggered.
I have also sanded, stained and assembled the wooden skids. Now the engine looks like it's supposed to!
I still need to build the carburetor, oiler and fuel tank, and make a wooden base for everything. It may be running for the Cabin Fever show!
cheepo45


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## idahoan

That is looking real nice!

Dave


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## BronxFigs

Please explain the advantages of the Gade exhaust system, and how it efficiently cools the engine cylinder to prevent overheating.  I can't figure it out.  

I see an auxiliary exhaust port, I see what looks like an atmospheric intake valve, and mechanically operated, in-head, conventional exhaust valve.  Is it the secondary exhaust port that differentiates the Gade from any other air-cooled H&M engine?  How/when is the secondary exhaust port opened?  Does it continually open as the piston head clears the port hole that's drilled into the side of cylinder, when the piston reaches BDC?   I'm missing something, as usual.  Thanks for the explanations.

************************************************************************************************************

A few other things to ask:  
1-  Do you think any scratch-built,  air-cooled, H&M cylinder could be designed/converted to operate in this fashion?
2-  Would gearing an air-cooled engine to operate on 6-strokes instead of 4-strokes effectively work in the same way as the Gade cylinder?  The two extra pumping cycles would bring in more fresh air to cool off the cylinder walls.  (Philip Duclos designed a 6-cycle, air-cooled,  engine).

Opinions, thoughts, and speculations welcomed.


Frank


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## Barnbikes

I was told the advantage of the second exhaust is so the hot gases can escape at the end of the power stroke and not heat up the cylinder on the exhaust stroke. 

Aeromotor wind mill engine was a 8 cycle if I remember right (never really saw one that ran right).


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## BronxFigs

Barnbikes-

Thanks.  I'm starting to get the notion that the secondary exhaust acts almost like the exhaust ports for a Uni-flow steam engine.  But, I could be wrong.


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## cheepo45

Hi Everyone,
I have some more pictures to post on my progress.
As far as the auxiliary port goes, a lot more exhaust comes out of it than comes out of the port from the exhaust valve. (which is why the muffler is on the auxiliary port) I'm not really sure of how this all works, but I would really like to know.
Here are some pictures of the carburetor machining. Drilling the angled hole through the casting to connect the internal passages was interesting, to say the least! It looks like it came out ok-we will see how it runs!
cheepo45


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## deverett

In reply to BronxFigs and Barnbikes about the Gade cooling, I append a cut and paste article from Farm Collector magazine  from December 2013:

*Cooling problems?*

The Gade engine was touted as being air-cooled without a fan. It breathes air, company literature said. This engine is cooled without fans and water. The theory may have sounded good at the time but Dave has doubts as to how well it worked in practice.

Gades are 4-cycle hit-and-miss engines. They operate on the same 4-stroke principle as your car engine or other 4-cycle engines, that is, intake, compression, power and exhaust strokes. The Gade difference is that it does not have a traditional exhaust stroke where, after traveling to bottom dead center on the power stroke, the piston pushes the hot burned gases up out of the top of the cylinder on the exhaust stroke.

Rather, when the piston in a Gade engine travels to bottom dead center on the power stroke, it uncovers a port (a hole) in the cylinder wall near the bottom of the cylinder in the same manner as a 2-cycle engine. The hot exhaust gases immediately rush out of that port, relieving the piston from pushing gases back up out of the top of the cylinder. That reduces the engines total time exposure to the hot exhaust gases and theoretically should result in a cooler running engine. 

Additionally, since the Gade is a hit-and-miss engine, the power stroke (especially when the engine is not carrying a load or doing any work) results in a significant rpm increase. The governor then holds open, for several revolutions, what other engines would call an exhaust valve, preventing more gas-air mixture into the cylinder.

Thus no more firing takes place, but the piston continues to move up and down, and since both the upper and lower ports are held open, fresh cool air is pumped back and forth through the cylinders, cooling the cylinder without water or a fan. 

So far so good. But under a significant load, the engine slows down and fires more often, without many (or even any) missed strokes. The cool air coming in the ports is limited and cant keep up with the heat created by the engine. The cylinder fins arent enough help, so after a while the engine just seizes up, Dave says. Probably doesnt damage anything, but it gets pretty frustrating for a farmer.

Now you have a 4-cycle engine without water cooling and fan cooling whose only advantage is ridding itself of hot exhaust gases faster than traditional engines, Dave adds. I would think, but dont really know, that this was not enough of an advantage to forgo a cooling fan or a water hopper. I think the Gades likely couldnt keep themselves cool enough to compete with other engine manufacturers of the same horsepower rating  which is why I think these engines might not have been used very much and those at shows dont show much wear.

Makes sense to me.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## cheepo45

Thanks, Dave for posting this article. It sounds like this was another great idea on paper that didn't work out so well in reality. Very interesting!
I did actually get the engine running for a little while today!
I still have a lot of fine tuning to do. The carburetor adjustment is way too sensitive. It's about 1/100 of a turn from no gas to flooded!
 I also think I cracked the spark plug, because it will only fire occasionally now. Once I get it running right, I will post a video.
cheepo45


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## BronxFigs

deverett-

Thanks so much for taking the time to find and post an explanation-clarification  of the theory behind the Gade engine's operation....especially, the cooling.  I does sound good on paper.  Reality and theory oftentimes differs quite a bit.  My guess, after reading your article, is that the only thing that made the Gade different than any other air-cooled H&M engine of the time, was the secondary exhaust port.

Many thanks, again.  Now, I know.  Quite interesting stuff....


Frank


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## cheepo45

Here are some photos of the fuel tank construction.
I used 2 3/4 copper pipe caps to make the tank.
I first cut mating 45 Degree angles on the open ends so the halves would mate together well. Then I drilled the outlet hole in one cap so pressure wouldn't build up during soldering. I clamped the halves together and soldered the seam. Next I made an outlet fitting out of 3/16 brass tubing
(I cut a 45 degree notch in the tubing so I could make it a right angle fitting)
I soldered in the outlet and filler tubes, and made a cap for the tank.
I think it came out well. 
cheepo45


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## cheepo45

After almost 5 years of on and off (mostly off!) building, the Gade motor is complete!
Here are some pictures.
I still have to build the oiler, and then the fun starts - getting it to run reliably!
Thanks for following the build!
cheepo45


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## BronxFigs

Good Luck!  Thanks for sharing the build with us.

Frank


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## Jasonb

Looks good

I see from your other post you are having a job getting it to run consistantly. It may be the fuel tank is too low and you are having to open the valve too much to get it to suck up and then it floods. The full size and the 1/2 scale model have the tank sitting on the bearers rather than under them.

J


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## cheepo45

Thanks for the compliments!
 I did have the fuel tank mounted on top for the first test run, but I couldn't put hardly any fuel in it without it running out the carb. intake. Once I get it running right, I may make a new flatter tank for a more scale appearance.
My main priority is getting it running for the Cabin Fever show.
cheepo45


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## Jasonb

Do you have a good seating for the valve in the carb? it should close off the fuel unless the tank is a lot higher than the intake. Quite often as the small hole is drilled from the needle it can throw up a burr on the angled seat, you may need to lap the valve in a little.

J


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## Bigford705

Did you ever end up making a drawing for the fixture you used to hold the head? Im working on one now and it would save me some time. Thanks Tyler


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## cheepo45

Thanks for your interest.
Unfortunately. I returned the fixture to the other HMEM member who loaned it to me several years ago and I didn't make a drawing of it.
The engine has been running perfectly for the last couple of years. I ran it for 3 days straight at the Cabin Fever Expo show last weekend and it never skipped a beat. 
Good luck with your engine. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.
cheepo45 (Scott)


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## Bigford705

Thanks for the quick reply! I will just have to spend a little time and come up with a fixture. Yours looks great, did you use the iron piston ring or use an o-ring? I have only spent a few hours on it so far but it looks like it will be a fun little build. Tyler


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## cheepo45

I used the cast iron ring that came with the fastener and small parts set.
Bore the cylinder straight and hone it with a brake cylinder hone. Make the piston .0005 smaller and it will have good compression.
cheepo45 (Scott)


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## Bigford705

I have only ever used iron rings but noticed a few guys have used the o-ring the gade model. I think I will stick with the iron aswell. Thanks for the tips.
Tyler


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## Bigford705

Well I finished the gade and I must say they were some of the nicest castings I have worked with. I have not recieved the fuel mixer yet but I did put one on that I had laying around so I could start it. Time to paint now and move onto the next one.
-tyler


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## cheepo45

Post some pics!


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## Bigford705

I dont seem to be able to post a picture or a video here. I do have a video up on youtube.


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## cheepo45

Looks good-runs great!
Mine has been my most reliable IC motor so far.


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## Bigford705

Thanks! Yes does seem to be a good running little engine. All painted now and recieved the mixer casting so I finished it up tonight. Someone had posted some videos of cabin fever up on you tube the other day and they walked past a small gade running... might have been yours.


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