# Anyone with latex or WD40 allergy ?



## JohnS (Jul 17, 2008)

I have known for some time that I am allergic to latex gloves which bring out an eczema type rash on my hands. I first tried latex gloves to protect my hands when restoring classic cars and cured the problem by wearing non-latex alternatives. 

Since becoming involved with model engineering I have experienced similar symptons which I have discovered only occur when using WD40 as a lubricant, when machining aluminium for example. A search on the internet revealed that WD-40 contains carba, thiuram, & mercapto mix, all chemicals used as accellerators in the manufacture of latex gloves.

Does anyone have experience of this problem or know of an alternative lubricant for ali. I strongly suspect that paraffin may have a similar effect. Meanwhile its back to my non-latex disposable gloves.

John S


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## HS93 (Jul 17, 2008)

I do get chaffing from handcuffs, write to Max Mosley he may be able to help with the latex.

 serious I had to wear gloves at times in work but a lot of the staff wore them all day, we found that quite a few had latex problems but also with the type of powder or coating used to enable you to pull them on without sticking, 
I think you are in the UK so ether ALDI or LIDLE do some disposable natural Rubber Powder free and they are cheap andthick enough to wear for what you need.

Peter


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## Bogstandard (Jul 17, 2008)

John,

I don't have the same problem as you with latex, but normally use vinyl anyway as they tend to hold up a lot longer. 

I do however suffer from reaction to WD40, and the way I get round it is rather than spraying it direct from the can onto the job, I spray some into a small container and use a small brush instead. That way I only come into the vapourised form once rather than continuously.

Paraffin and my white spirits/3 in 1 oil mix work very well, paraffin being the recommended one. Both of these can cause a general skin reaction if used a lot, as they leech the oils out of the skin. Again, a container and small 1/4" brush for application can solve most problems.

Your main defence in all cases should be a good lanolin based barrier cream, even if wearing gloves. This is a recognised universal solution to skin reaction and should always be used at the start of any work. Not just on your hands, but carry on up your arms as well, anywhere anything that might cause problems can reach, a good side effect is that you will find your dirty bits wash up a lot quicker. 

If you have a reaction to barrier cream, you are in deep s**t.

John


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## Twinsquirrel (Jul 17, 2008)

Hi John,

I don't have a problem with latex but do/am suffering from dermatitis on both hands at the moment, I stock all my vans with a barrier cream which gives pretty good protection from most oils and should allow you to use latex gloves as extra protection. The best product I have found so far is this one:

http://www.cromwell.co.uk/SOL7802050D?id=JsMs4DzL

Contact the supplier first as some of these products contain paraffin.

*Edit:*

Sorry I must have been typing at the same time as you Bogstandard, didn't intend to repeat what you were saying. BTW I did think about posting pictures of my hands but they are a bit to grotesque for family viewing.


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## JohnS (Jul 17, 2008)

Thanks guys

As always, your reaction has been swift and helpful. Its obvious I am not alone with this problem - I shall certainly try using a combination of a good barrier cream and dispense my WD-40 into a container and apply with a brush.

itchy hands John S


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## Florian (Jul 17, 2008)

Or just use denaturated alcohol when machining aluminium. This works quite well, but its recommended to open a window...  Otherwise you will cut the wrong things after breathing the alcohol vapors for too long ;D

Florian


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## sparky961 (Jul 17, 2008)

To lube or not to lube, that is my question... 

I've seen many references to machining aluminum dry, and I've had very good results working with it this way in the past. I've experimented with various lubes for parting off, because the tool tends to get stuck and bite too deep with some of the gummier alloys.

As for the irritation/allergy, my skin is pretty resistant to most things, but I think this topic also falls under the recent "safety" flurry. Most of the chemicals that we all use in our shops and at work can be linked in some form or another to cause cancer or other "nasty things". I'd be willing to bet that there are a lot less precautions taken in the home shop when dealing with such chemicals than at work. There's simply no one checking up on you, and the cost of protection in some cases is higher than we're willing to spend.

I don't remember the source to credit for this, but I either read or heard this quote a while back: "If you wouldn't eat it, don't put it on your skin". As can be seen from trans-dermal patches for quitting smoking and birth control, our skin is excellent at sucking up things we put on it. Our lungs are even better at this, as can be seen in the nicotine absorption of a smoker.

Wear gloves - except when it poses a danger from machinery.

-Brian


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## Stan (Jul 17, 2008)

My personal preference for working aluminum is A-9. Made by Relton who make Rapid Tap for ferrous metals and they recommend A-9 for all non ferrous. My only experience is with aluminum and I have been using it for close to forty years (originally when manufacturing electronic panels) You can run a dry 2-56 tap into aluminum until it seizes and then put a drop of A-9 on the tap and wind it out. Comes in green cans from half pint up to at least the gallon size I buy..


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## Circlip (Jul 18, 2008)

Wow, no one else in the UK ever used the OLD one for machining alumininium? ? -Milk
 Regards Ian


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## DickDastardly40 (Jul 18, 2008)

Circlip  said:
			
		

> Wow, no one else in the UK ever used the OLD one for machining alumininium? ? -Milk
> Regards Ian



Yum Sour Milk smell all around your favourite machine! ;D

I'm sure it works very well but I can't help wondering who decided to try it first, a bit like the first person to eat an oyster. Either that or because it looks like emulsified oil it must also work as a coolant.

Full fat, semi skimmed or skinny or as we differentiate in in our house; leaded, unleaded or white water. Wonder if the higher fat and cream content stuff like Jersey cow milk works best?


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## Bogstandard (Jul 18, 2008)

Cows milk is in fact the standby for cutting copper, instead of using tallow.

John


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## Julian (Jul 18, 2008)

WD40 is expensive for how much you get. Go to one of the oil companies or some of the cleaning/garage supplies companies. Buy their version of wd40 in a litre or 5litre container and either paint on or use a cheap manual garden spray. 99p from Wilco. I got some "DuckOil" and its just as good.

In my Health and Safety degree course several years ago we were told "Never let a company provide Latex Gloves they cause too many problems even on people who normally have no skin problems. Latex is handy for sex but most people don't wear the latex for prolonged periods". In my shop I use non-latex of any make. At work we are only supplied with Nitrile gloves(the blue medical ones) but I have found they are crap in the shop. They are destroyed by many oils and paints and rip very easily.


Julian


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## sparky961 (Jul 18, 2008)

Julian  said:
			
		

> In my shop I use non-latex of any make. At work we are only supplied with Nitrile gloves(the blue medical ones) but I have found they are crap in the shop. They are destroyed by many oils and paints and rip very easily.



I've found this too with the nitrile gloves. Lacquer thinner makes them expand about twice the size of your hand and then they fall to pieces, leaving you with a nitrile bracelet.

Have you found a material that holds up well to shop use?

-Sparky


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## zeusrekning (Jul 18, 2008)

Stan  said:
			
		

> My personal preference for working aluminum is A-9. Made by Relton who make Rapid Tap for ferrous metals and they recommend A-9 for all non ferrous. My only experience is with aluminum and I have been using it for close to forty years (originally when manufacturing electronic panels) You can run a dry 2-56 tap into aluminum until it seizes and then put a drop of A-9 on the tap and wind it out. Comes in green cans from half pint up to at least the gallon size I buy..



Stan, I'd agree. A-9 is good stuff, as si rapid tap and tap magic is another I like. When cutting off a part cut till it gets tight then put a couple drops. Same with drilling or tapping. 
Tim


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## CrewCab (Jul 18, 2008)

sparky961  said:
			
		

> "If you wouldn't eat it, don't put it on your skin".



That sounds like sensible advice to me  ........... to be fair Brian, like you my skin has thankfully proved fairly resistant to most things over the years, and from the elbows down it has been immersed in a wide variety  ............ these days I would agree that barrier cream is always my first line of defence, I don't like gloves be it vinyl, latex or whatever, but .......... I do use them 

CC


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 18, 2008)

There are many old stand beys for aluminum cutting fluid. Rudy Kouhoupt recommended Kero paraffin. Elmer Versburg recommended isopropal alcohol  I have used A-9 and tap magics aluminum formula I can not say I really have a favorite. 
As far as the edible part I have even experimented with corn oil and olive oil corn oil gets sticky when dried. There are many choices one need to pick what is right for the home shop. 
I just looked up the MSDS for A-9 http://www.relton.com/pdf/a9msds.pdfThe main ingredent is mineral oil it also lists pharmaceutical grade dye , perfume and a couple secret ingredients
so looks to me like mineral oil would work for cutting aluminum. 
Tin


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## sparky961 (Jul 18, 2008)

Eureka... vegetable oils! 

I'm going to be trying that the next time I'm machining.

-Sparky


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## ksouers (Jul 18, 2008)

sparky961  said:
			
		

> Eureka... vegetable oils!
> 
> I'm going to be trying that the next time I'm machining.
> 
> -Sparky



Kinda brings a new meaning to "What's cooking in the shop." :


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## JohnS (Jul 19, 2008)

Well guys, I sure have plenty of options to go for to fend off the dreaded eczema. 

So far I have only been able to try Bogs suggestion of spraying WD-40 into a container and applying by brush. I pierced the metal lid of a glass jar, poked the long plastic application tube thro the hole and was able to fill the jar without filling the air with spray. 

Did a fair amount of machining of ali with brush applied WD-40 and bingo !!! no more itchy hands. I shall get myself some barrier cream to keep my pinkies nice - you never know I may get invited to the opening ceremony of Bogs new workshop.

John S


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