# getting my first lathe!



## Mattkguns (Nov 30, 2013)

just got into some money, and i am now buying a lathe!

im getting a grizzly 10x22 g0602, im pretty excited about it.

im getting the http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3527 tool package. 

the live center http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3702

ive already got some other tools, so i think i should be set. but im open to suggestions.

im planning to tear it down to the headstock/ bed, using kerosene to clean

for relubing im thinking of mobil 1 red grease, some mobil 1 synthetic, and spray lanolin.

that last part is my question to you guys, do you see anything wrong with coating the bed/ ways with lanolin?

Matt


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 30, 2013)

I think you'll like the Grizzly 10 x 22 lathe.  I've had mine for over 6 years and am quite pleased with it.  I did add a QCTP and altered the drive over the years but the stock machine doesn't need much help.

The tooling packages you picked should get you started in a big way.

For the bed ways I've used Mobil Vectra #2 Way Oil, all the oil ports get #10 Non Detergent Oil.

Enjoy your new lathe

Cheers,
Phil


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 1, 2013)

I second what phil said 
Way oil and spindle Oil

Way Oil







Spindle oil





I have a gallon container of each under my lathe. 

All of the oil companies have quality way and spindle oils and there are various grades for different size machines. 

There has been lots of talk about lanolin as a PREVERVATIVE  . If you live  in place that has winter the lathe is in an unheated shed and you have humidity  then you may need lanolin .
But I will tell you I worked for a year in a shop that has a cnc lathe with flood coolant the mix was always by eye no refractometer. As long as the lathe was wiped down at the end of the shift and the ways and exposed parts were oiled with way oil there was no rust the next time we came in even after a few days off. We used shell oils by the five gallon bucket. 
I have never seen Shell products by the gallon and a gallon of each will last the HSM years. 

There are some excellent synthetic machine oils but like I said use way oil on the ways and spindle oils on the spindles. 

Tin


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## chucketn (Dec 1, 2013)

I cannot find a local distributor of these products. Where do you get Mobil Vactra #2?

Chuck


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 1, 2013)

Enco follow the link click on the words "way oil" above the gallon jug of vactra.
Tin


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## purpleknif (Dec 1, 2013)

Got my go602 back in July when I had a 10% off deal from grizz> Wasn't planning to buy that soon but the discount was hard to ignore. Finally got it mounted and broken in. Haven't taken a cut yet as winter has set in. Looks to be a quality piece.


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## Philipintexas (Dec 1, 2013)

Enco is a source of the way oil but spindle oil is a different case. Last time I needed some they only sold 5 gal. tubs. I ended up buying ISO-46 hydraulic oil from Tractor Supply locally.


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 1, 2013)

well phil it is listed on there site I have purchased it from them and i gave a link for it . the cyber monday promo code for 20% off  is CYBER and the free shipping code is MONDAY. 
So no better time to order than now until 11pm eastern 12-2-13

Depending on your machine ISO 48 is a bit heavy for a spindle ISO 22 would be the equivalent to velocolite 10
Tin


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## Mattkguns (Dec 1, 2013)

Thanks for the responses guys, I see I need to reevaluate my oil decisions.

While I'm here, does anybody know where to find a current grizzly coupon?


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 1, 2013)

Do not know about Coupons but this drill set is on sale right now may want to add to the tool list.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/TiN-Coated-115-pc-Drill-Bit-Set/G3658
Tin


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## purpleknif (Dec 2, 2013)

There's a 5% off coupon on the back of their big catalog. Expires 12/31/13. If you don't have a catalog they'll be glad to send you one.


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## Mattkguns (Dec 7, 2013)

here she is






some cleaning left to do

and probably going to center it on the work bench... eventually...

as of now, its bolted in place there, and the bench is quite solid. i didnt really think through the placement of my bolt studs, other than their distance from each other.

Anyway, quick question, i got the 100 size qctp from LMS, but the center "spindle" it comes with doesnt attach to the supplied cross slide "nut"
before i go and start making parts or modifying what came with it, does anyone have a solution thats tried and true?

Matt


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 7, 2013)

> Anyway, quick question, i got the 100 size qctp from LMS, but the center "spindle" it comes with doesn't attach to the supplied cross slide "nut"
> before i go and start making parts or modifying what came with it, does anyone have a solution that's tried and true?



Standard practice is Machine the blank supplied by LMS to fit the t -nut slot on the compound. This is standard industry practice. as there are variations in t nut sizes on lathes. . 
IIRC you have no mill to machine the t- nut so the next question is can you chuck up the t nut that came with the lathe drill it to size and tap it to fit the stud on the lms qctp. 
Tin


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## Mattkguns (Dec 7, 2013)

Ill probably do that, Tin

Get some practice in with the 4 jaw.

gotta figure out how to mount one of the tool posts though, seeing as i dont have the mount...

Matt


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 7, 2013)

If you are only holding a drill bit and a tap you hold these in the tail stock.
Hence my suggestion of plan b

Tin


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 7, 2013)

Looks good Matt.  Mine hasn't been that clean in 6 years.

You'll like the QCTP but in the meantime you can always use the 4 position holder that's supplied. 

Cheers,
Phil


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## Mattkguns (Dec 7, 2013)

cut some metal and polished a sliding valve for an air motor i built in school a couple years ago. loving what ive seen so far

Tin- good point, realized what you meant when i went out to the garage. need to get a 9/16-18 tap when i get out next.

Matt


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## Mattkguns (Dec 9, 2013)

and...
we have QCTP!





that sits about 10 thou high... :wall: i thought by ordering the 100 series i would avoid this... oh well.

ill just have to take the compound rest plate to school and face it down .100 or so. unfortunately, the campus is closed because of "inclement weather." damned texas ice.
ah well, made a couple feet for my bench levelers/ outriggers, turned out real nice. cant wait to start threading and parting, though doing those above center is a no no.

also, broke my 4 jaw wrench when i was trying to get it off :wall:
anyone know of better than original replacements? it seemed cheesy/ cast.

last thought/ niggle, the 4 jaw looks like it has around .05 runout, which isnt a big deal, i suppose, considering the way it works, but still, wish it wasnt. oh well

overall very happy with it!

Matt


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 9, 2013)

Use 3/8 tool bits and you will have your 1/8 of breathing room . Sympathy right.?

Tin


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 9, 2013)

I use 3/8" and 5/16" toolbits with the 100 series QCTP exclusively on this lathe.  As Tin mentioned, you'll be good to go.

The use of 1/2" or larger toolbits on the smaller hobby lathes has been debated elsewhere.  It's easier to grind smaller HSS tools, 1/2" tools cost more and don't provide significant advantages over smaller ones on lathes of this size.

Grizzly sells replacement 4 jaw wrenches, P/N P0602055-2.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Mattkguns (Dec 9, 2013)

I see your points about the smaller tooling, but I do already have a set of 1/2" carbide insert tools.

That's another thing, why does it seem like no one likes the carbide inserts on these smaller lathes?
I've seen mention of finish and some other things, but I'm getting pretty good surface finish that could easily be improved with patience

Matt


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 9, 2013)

I use brazed carbide and carbide inserts and have gotten good (not my perception, but one offered by a true expert machinist)  finishes.  

For ferrous metals I use 1018, 303 SS, 1144 alloy, 12L14, and cast iron.  I also tend to use one of the 3 slowest feed rates and a spindle rpm of 185, directly in contrast to a lot of information in print that says use carbide at very high speeds and feed rates.

I think sharp tools, cutting oil and patience are factors that are key in getting good finishes.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Mattkguns (Dec 9, 2013)

sorry defreels, this is very much the wrong thread to post this in, especially as i dont know much about steam engines.

try the showing them and the work in progress section, lots of builds in there

Matt

edit: seeing as this is your first post, i should welcome you to the forums, you should introduce yourself in the welcome forum.
this is a great place on the internet, with very helpful people


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 9, 2013)

Matt I think all of us have used or tried carbide with varying results. 

The lathe you have should be fine with carbide. 
do be careful carbide does not like interrupter cuts or shock . Do not get it hot then throw coolant on it. 

Other than that carbide likes speed . To cut at carbide speeds you need power . And since you have a full horsepower of power you should be fine. 
I discourage carbide on fractional horsepower tiny machines.
Tin


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## Mattkguns (Dec 9, 2013)

good tips, tin, i appreciate the input.
ill have to acquire some hss for some interrupted stuff in the future
all the more reason im happy i went with a larger lathe.

Matt


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## gus (Dec 9, 2013)

Hi Matt,

We share your joy of buying a new Lathe and we would love to see pics of your lathe and your very first cut and job piece.

Gus from faraway Singapore.


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## Mattkguns (Dec 9, 2013)

Gus,

thank you for your interest, its always a joy to talk about your new toys 

heres my first mess of chips that need cleaning






and heres my first parts made, they are feet on my bench levelers






they arent done with any real precision, just for fun really. i need to modify my compound rest at school, which explains the current state of disassembly.

thanks again for sharing in this new purchase guys, ive gotten some great info and ideas from you guys.

Matt


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## gus (Dec 10, 2013)

Gear drive spindle. Good and safe. And good size lathe.


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## Mattkguns (Dec 10, 2013)

Actually, its a belt drive setup

And yes. Perfect size for my current needs and restrictions.

Matt


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## Mattkguns (Dec 11, 2013)

Alright, got the compound slide mount chucked up and indicated with .001" on the lathe at school, faced off .080", and now I have full use of my QCTP, woo

Next up... Possibly an attempt at threading

Matt


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## Mattkguns (Dec 16, 2013)

question for you guys, whats the best way to keep the carriage from moving while taking face cuts?
ive tightened the lock screw down a little, which seems to help, and all the way down for finish face cuts.
is this just a quirk of small lathes? or am a missing something?

thanks,

Matt


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 16, 2013)

Matt,
Tightening the carriage lock should prevent it from moving.  Put a dial indicator against the apron and see if you can move it.  If you can see any DI movement, the lock isn't working.  Might need cleaning.

Facing should give you a mirror finish on almost any metal if:
Your carriage is locked
Tool is sharp
Feed rate is slow (maybe a minute to face 1.5" stock)
Cutting oil is used
Depth of cut is a few thou

I have this lathe so I think these conditions will apply to your lathe as well.

I hope this helps

Cheers,
Phil


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## Mattkguns (Dec 16, 2013)

Thanks for replying Phil
The lock works just fine, I just cut my teeth on the big lathes at school and they don't budge when taking a face cut.

Have you found that the right vs the left lock works better for you?

I'm considering making one of them a lever lock so I don't have to keep pulling the Allen key out.

Matt


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 16, 2013)

Matt,
I took some hex stock, made a bolt with an elongated head so the wrench won't slip off and this locks my carriage.  The wrench stays on there all the time





on the left side, the socket head cap screw you see just to the right of the way wiper is not a locking bolt.  It holds what Grizzly calls a slide block (P/N 917) that prevents the carriage from tipping





Cheers,
Phil


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