# Miniature Tool Collection



## flyingtractors1

I've decided to start a new thread to announce my collection of miniature tools and the tool board / box and work bench I built to display them. I'm also working on a video that will hopefully show more detail.  Ralph


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## fltenwheeler

We need a size comparison. Can you take a picture of you smashing your thumb with one of the hammers?

Tim


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## flyingtractors1

Yes,  Thanks Tim.  This hammer and the plane in front were cast in solid gold.  Other pieces include silver, brass and gold with exotic wood handles on some pieces.  Ralph


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## lennardhme

Simply super - & a great thread.


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## flyingtractors1

Got the video figured out.  Ralph

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9XXJ2tUhOU&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A[/ame]


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## Shopguy

Some really beautiful work on your part.  
Something bound to become a heirloom.
Do you sign your pieces?
Ernie


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks Ernie J. Well, I haven't figured out how to sign the miniatures without defacing them, and don't think that I could write small enough to do it. Maybe I should develop a punch stamp or something like that. Thanks for the thought. It may be that posting them here is documentation.

 ps: I'm living in the shadow of Pikes Peak - and loving it  Ralph


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## Tin Falcon

ralph : in one shop i worked in we used electrochemical  etching . 


http://www.ecemmi.com/products.html

http://catalog.lectroetch.com/viewitems/all-categories/power-units?&forward=1

http://www.etchon.co.in/EtchON_Metal.html

nothing more than a dc power supply electrolyte  and a felt pad covered with a small stencil .iirc the stencil material was similar the the material in the old spirit duplicators of my youth. once etched oil the part.
they make electrolytes for various metals. 
Tin


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks Tim.  I think that I will look into that.  It does seem what I need.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

A couple closeups. Ralph


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## aarggh

Wow! I'm speechless Ralph, that's just amazingly beautiful work mate!

cheers, Ian


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks Ian.  I finally got a "New" set of chisels - case hardened with walnut handles.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

I had meant to post a comparative scale.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Just finished a new piece that has been in the making for some time.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Thought some might appreciate this product of home casting.





They were cast upside down from this pic. The base here was actually the sprue into which the molten metal was poured. The hammers on my tool board were also made employing the lost wax process. When this mold was broken off I discovered that I didn't have the heart to separate the twins and finished them to high luster and made "twin" handles for them.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Found another old tool in the archives.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Another metal work project.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

And a comparative scale.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Well, here's the next in the series.   Ralph


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## carlos_alegria

exelent  congratulations good worK


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## Mainer

Wow. I'm in awe.

I hesitate to voice any suggestion, since that level of work is far beyond me, but one thing I see that detracts from the tools is that the sharp edges and corners have been polished away.  Polishing without rounding over edges is very difficult, so it's not surprising. The book "Gunsmith Kinks #1" from www.brownells.com has a good discussion of polishing.


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## Victorymike18

Wow, absolutely beautiful work!

I've always found the idea of home casting appealing, but am a bit nervous about exactly how difficult/expensive/time consuming it would to get started with the melting operation.  

Would you mind making a post with some pictures and basic description of what kind of equipment you are working with, for the metal casting?

I'm looking forward to seeing more!


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks Mainer.  I appreciate your thoughts.  But the sharp corners and sharp edges were carefully and intentionally removed on some pieces.  Hand tools need to be ergonomically friendly to fit the hand without presenting hazards that could be uncomfortable or injurious.  I could, however, use the information you referred to on some projects.  Thank you.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks Victorymike18.  Below is a rough sketch of procedures that I have used. The upper half is simple and inexpensive enough.  The rubber mold making, wax pattern production and lost wax casting is considerably more complex. I'll try to post some procedural photos in the future.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Here's a pair.  Ralph


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## Swifty

Now that is absolutely amazing :bow:

Paul.


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks, Swifty.

Here's the start of a new plane for my collection.  It is sterling silver and weighs 1.0 oz at this point.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Here's the finished plane with Rosewood accents and steel blade. Ralph


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## isambard

those tools are so good it must have taken a long time to make them what craftsmanship

Tom


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks Tom.  Yes,  it is a slow process, and I work in spurts as time allows and giving my cramped hands and sore eyes time to recoop.  But in the end I have a little something to show for it - usually.  Sometimes I end up with a melted heap of scrap and have to start over - or not.

I've started a new build.  This one will be a scraper (#12) - I think.  We'll see how / if it turns out.  In this one there are some elements new to me and some very delicate operations to perform.  That may be why I chose to try this model.  I like a challenge and will figure it out as it progresses knowing that sequence, patience and finess are key.  The weekend is here, and I expect to make good progress barring any mishaps.   Ralph


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## starnovice

WOW even your drawings are a work of art.  Let me guess, you don't need to do a lot of measuring, meaning you are able to just eyeball the sizes and shapes you need.  I really like how the tools look used but well cared for.

Pat Wicker


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks Pat.  You are right; I've always had a keen eye and spatial sense, but it's hard to admit on a forum like this, where real experts work to a measured 1/1000", that I just eyeball and freehand everything.  And yet at the scale which I work, in some cases 1/10 and smaller (that would be 1/10,000" tolerance -- see below), my results work out fine (most often).  I think that it's just a matter of how one holds one's jaw and the size of the magnification glass one uses.  Well, I don't claim to be a trained machinist; I'm not trained in anything.  I'm just a self taught artist who may now have to find a different forum.  But I love the work that real machinists do here.  Maybe now that I've come clean I can just watch.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

A little more progress already.  I just had to get that tiny drilling and tapping done so I could breathe easy.  Ever tapped an 0-80 thread?  It is difficult to get right - not break in the hole, ruien the whole piece, and it is scarey.  But it's done just right now.  On to other operations.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Took a diversion from the #12 - had to; it just got too cumberson and demanding.  This will be a quick gratification little Chariot Plane.  Ralph


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## RonGinger

Very nice work. Will you please say something about how you hold those tiny parts together to do the silver solder? That has been my biggest problem in fabricating items. Kozo shows lots of ways to use small screws drilled and tapped as temporary fasteners, then he files their heads away. But you items are much to small for that.


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## flyingtractors1

Sometimes I pin the parts together in proper proximity on a ceramic board with flux painted on the adjoining parst and tiny pieces of silver "sprinkled" around each joint and hope that they hold their position while I apply heat.  Sometimes I need to wire the parts together with tiny wire to make sure that they hold together then bursh on liquid flux and apply solder.  This is a very trickey procedure. It is more like silver brazing than lead soldering, but it is magical because when done right the pieces aren't just "glued" together; they really do become one piece as the parts melt into each other without distortion if the temperature applied is carefully regulated. I have used a butane torch to unite smaller pieces and sometimes need to use an oxy acetylene torch. Sounds simple? Well, maybe it is untill a second or third piece is to be united with the previously joined parts in a multiple piece part. Keeping in mind that brass melts at 1650 to 1720 degrees Fahrenheit.  When a particular part requires the joining of several pieces that cannot be laid out for a "one shot" soldering, the first union is soldered with a "hard" solder which melts at 1365 degrees; the next union is soldered with "medium" solder which melts at 1275 degrees, and the third union is soldered with "EZ" solder which melts at 1240. Therefore it is important to observe and carefully regulate the soldering temperature in each case so that the second soldering heat does not remelt the first soldered joint and the third heat does not melt the previous two joints causing everything to fall apart or shift rather than adhere in place (I hate it when that happens). This got wordy because it can be a complicated process and much care must be taken.  Ralph


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## wings_of_fire

Those are Lovely.Thm:


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks. Finished the Chariot Plane today with Rosewood accents. Photographed on 1/4" graph paper.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Got a good start on a new one.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

A little more progress (pictured in reverse order). Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Have a good start on a new one while I ponder how to finish earlier projects.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

A little more progress.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Tuened out nice.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Still working on the plow plane. The fence was a trick to build.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Got the wheel threads cut today, installed the wheel (it fit and works perfectly), and I think it's finished - if anything ever really is.  May need to replace some of the damaged hardware and oil and polish it up well and etc.  etc.   Ralph


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## johnny1320

Wow beautiful! What is it about planes you seem to have a lot of them?


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## flyingtractors1

Thank you.  Yes,  I have built quite a few and have many to go to have a sampling of the great variety out there.  I've also built other miniature hand tools.  See my videos on YouTube under "miniature tools" by Art Rafael


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## flyingtractors1

Remember this one?














It's finished.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

I had meant to post a comparative scale pic.   Ralph


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## Tinkerer58

very nice work, absolutly amazing the skills across both wood and metal. love it. Well done.


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## flyingtractors1

Working on a #4 plane.  That lever cap was a challenge.  And the frog has been more so.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Lever cap turned out nice.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

The finished plane.   Ralph








In action.


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuU4fPxAnJs&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A[/ame]


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## flyingtractors1

A Sterling Silver model coming together.   Ralph


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## thayer

Ralph, these are beautiful!

Thayer


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## Thivoth

wow, I just came across your thread and I love your work. It's very impressive, your designs and the details are amazing


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## thayer

I would definitely sign your art for future generations to appreciate. As wonderful as this forum is, I can't imagine it being around 50 years from now, let alone longer.


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks, Gents.  I appreciate your thoughts.  I have thought about signing my work but have hesitated to mar it up, and I don't have a proper stamp.  I guess that when I am gone and forgotten, people will just have to wonder who was eccentric enough to build such a thing.  Doing this is insane, but I like the results enough to keep doing it.  

The silver #4 is finished now, and I'm off to my next insanity.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Working on a gold model now.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Some progress.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

The gold #4 is finished.   Ralph


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## thayer

simply stunning.


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## flyingtractors1

Working on a dove tail infill plane. Trying to figure out how the joints mesh - experimenting some with popsicle sticks, etc. Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

This dovetailing is very tricky for me.  Things keep inverting on me, and, though I measured twice and cut once, I cut it exactly wrong.  I'll keep trying.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Finally - - after several trials, I'm getting the hang of it.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

started a new model.  Usually I build a cory / simulation of a full scale I've seen (in person or in pictures).  This time I am building an "original" based on some familiar parts and pieces.

Carefully cut of flat brass stock








Arranged in proximity









Pinned and silver soldered to form a unibody


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## flyingtractors1

I just had to take a break from working on the dovetail planes to renew enthusiasm.  And now I've got it.  Done.   Ralph

























When the plane is highly polished the metals seem to blend, and the joints are not as apparent.  Seems that a satin finish is best.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Thought some might be interested in parts of my miniature tool collection.   See action video on YouTube.   Ralph


   [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARI533ZplhM&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A[/ame]


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## flyingtractors1

Miniature table vise by Art Rafael.


























See action video on YouTube:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CTModW5hdg&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A[/ame]


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## RonGinger

Ralph, thanks for making that video. I have tried to do some investment casting, but have failed in the metal pouring part. Your video mentions a centrifugal casting machine. I have seen these in jewelery size but not big enough for the part you showed. Can you post a photo of the casing machine? 

thanks


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## barnesrickw

I woodwork with hand tools mostly.  I love a good handplane.  Those plane and the rest of your tools are little pieces of art.  


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines


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## flyingtractors1

Hi Ron.  I'm sure the centrifugal casting machines you have probably seen is like the one I use.




















But I have replaced the usual small (jewelry size) crucible with a larger one (note the smaller one on the casting tub floor) and have extended the arm by 1 inch to accommodate somewhat larger molds.  And yet, I am pushing it to do a 3.0 oz cast.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks, Barnesrickw.  It is my love of woodworking with primarily hand tools that has drawn me to build miniature replicas which I often carry in my pocket.  Never want to be too far away from my tools.  And they actually work like the larger counterparts, and I actually use them in my other hobbies - model airplane and miniature furniture construction.  I am so passionate about my tools that I have built some of silver and gold, and they do evoke conversation with others who appreciate the crafts.   Ralph


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## RonGinger

Thank you. That is like the jewelery ones Ive seen, but a good deal bigger. I did not realize they were made that big. I assume the weight seen to to the side swings into the opposite side to make the spin part balanced?

Have you tried using a vacuum under the flask and just pouring the metal into the sprue? I have tried that, but with little luck. I was trying to pour a tree of small parts and only got one or two full parts.


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## barnesrickw

I really like the different pitches on the in-lay smoothers.  I've made some Krenov and Japanese style planes, but nothing this nice.    


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines


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## flyingtractors1

Hi Ron.  I have heard about that kind of vacuum casting but don't know enough about it to try it.  I think that it requires some expensive equipment.  Centrifugal casting has given me the best results.

Thanks, barnesrickw.  I have grown in this effort, and things got better as I got more practice.

Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

For those who appreciate modeling in metal and working with wood:


A new miniature chisel plane crafted of brass with a steel blade and wood knob.  Actually works beautifully.   Ralph


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## barnesrickw

Very nice


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks again.  Ralph


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## Chiptosser

Thank You , Thank you, Thank you!!
Little pieces of Art!

I love them. 
I too would line to get more information about the spin casting equip.
and the type of plaster that is used. I want to add this process to my 
equipment list.

Thanks.


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## flyingtractors1

Thank you, Chiptosser.  

The plaster (investment) I use is "Ransom & Randolph Ultra Vest Investment" available at most jewelry supply stores.  

And I use   

 

*Spring-Driven Centrifugal Casting Machine*

as shown in my Feb. 3 posting (#72) above.  These are readily available and sometimes inexpensive if you search the net some for a used one.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

I also build special boxes for special things, and I tend to build special things of many sorts.
The "package" is important and reflective of the "gift" it contains.  
This is also the case in proper presentation of a trophy or work of art.  
And as much attention to design and construction of the box is employed as in that of the item that it complements.

  Sometimes the box is designed to contain a particular item.    Ralph









In this case, batteries, wire harness, switches and lights.








And on the box a custom, miniature of course, Solenoid Pendulum Engine.








see it in action on youtube:   http://youtu.be/J4sgMcHpB4k


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## flyingtractors1

Thought some might be interested in my recent build.  














See action video on Youtube:   [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQiS_-uEK3U&feature=share&list=UU-GXI1Wp8qMJcEsSWF5Eu5A[/ame]


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## flyingtractors1

I've started a new project - a compound mechanical lever lifting jack.  Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Some progress:   Ralph

















A mill would have come in handy, but, having none,  I am well acquainted with jewelers saws and files.


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## Shopguy

Ralph,
You do beautiful work.  Your jack project is most interesting.  A person could probably find dozens of different antique jacks to make miniatures of.
Keep up the good work.
Ernie J


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks , Ernie.  I have seen many pictures of all sorts of old lever jacks and  remember seeing some "in person" in my earlier days, 
but I can't quite remember details of their components much.  I am in constant search of models or pictures that show the working mechanisms. 
 I will attempt to build miniatures as some become clear to me.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Some progress.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Sometimes it's the small "smaller" parts that are most difficult to fabricate.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

The jack is finished.  It may need a little tweeking and some buffing.   Ralph















A comparative scale.
















See action video on Toutube:   http://youtu.be/wvQAXxTgQJE


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## Tin Falcon

And where did you find an 8" tall bic lighter ??? LOL
Nice work  you are true craftsman. But I know someone who has a 3:" diameter dime !!! 
Tin


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## BAH101

Remember safety first and always chock the wheels when lifting your toy tractor 
Very nice work.


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks, Tin.  Those lighters are a BIG deal out here, and dimes won't buy much  --  unless they are big enough.  

Well, BAH101, I did chock the rear wheel when I lifted the front of the tractor but forgot to chock the front when I lifted the rear and darn near rolled the tractor off the table.  
I'll make sure to remember next time.

Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

I've started a new project that might interest some.

Building wheels that are true, straight and centered has always been a short coming of mine.
So I've decided to give it a serious, earnest effort, and if good wheels result, an acceptable  new project will follow.

First - hoops were cut from brass plumbing pipe.  I have hammered some good round hoops on the anvil horn,
but this time very true round hoops were produced.   Ralph







One set is 1 3/4 inch diameter and the other is 1 1/2 inch diameter.


Wheel hubs were turned, measured and marked and drilled to accommodate 1/16 inch spokes as were the wheels.


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## flyingtractors1

To ensure that the wheel was true with the hub perfectly centered
a simple instrument was devised to lay out all the parts.














And a good true wheel resulted designed to resemble an old time model:








and then another








Now only two more are needed and a miniature antique model can be built around them.   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Now there are four.








I've decided to build a miniature antique horse drawn road grader.  Pictures as it progresses.

Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

"T" beam rails fabricated for the main frame.


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## flyingtractors1

Joined at the hip and with rear wheels and axle installed:   Ralph


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## flyingtractors1

Progress:


Front trucks:








Hand wheels:


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## flyingtractors1

The blade mechanism:


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## flyingtractors1

I finally got around to posting pictures of the "finished" model antique road grader.   Ralph

first, the evener and double tree needed to pull the grader.



























See the action video on YouTube at:   http://youtu.be/xiIoYGwTtaI


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## BAH101

That is so cool!


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## crueby

Great work, very well done! :bow:


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## flyingtractors1

Thanks, gents.  This was a fun and, at times, frustrating project since I had no formal plans to follow.  I guess we could call it a "prototype", but there won't be another, so maybe it is more of an "original".   Ralph


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