# Dave's Chuck Sigle



## dreeves (Jan 4, 2009)

This is my second attempt to do this post. In my first attempt I got excited when the Eagles beat the Vikings. I forgot the hit the post tab. :wall: Well here it goes again.

I started Chucks Single two weeks ago. I got some parts done and wanted to share them with the members. 

I started with the base which I made out of 1/4 inch aluminum plate. This is a strait forward part to make. 







The second part I made was the Cylinder which i made in two parts. I made a liner which started out as 1 inch X .760 ID d.o.m. tube from wicks aircraft supply. The liner was truned to .900 OD. The outer sleve is made from brass which should give a good bling after polish. The two were put together with epoxy






I made the valve parts next both were made with brass as well. The two are held together with 0-80 socket head cap screws. I will make the valve when I get the valve seat cutter made.










I made the rod and piston today. They are both made out of aluminum. I made the piston with a .001 clearance.






This is a little bugger to make. I wish I would have placed a coin to show its size. I made mine like bretk did. It will have an ajustable rod which will screw onto the 2-56 rod with the locknut.










I made my cylinder with a slip fit to the front base so I could easly remove it latter if needed. The two are held together with a 2-56 bolt at 6 o'clock.










This is all the parts that are made to date. Some need futher work done to them


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## cfellows (Jan 4, 2009)

Lookin' great, Dave! Are you going to make it a hit n miss?

Chuck


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## dreeves (Jan 5, 2009)

Chuck, 

Im hope to. I am waiting to make some of the other parts till after Cabin Fever so I can get the flywheels and some new stock. I am also waiting to see the drawings of superfast


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## Bernd (Jan 5, 2009)

Nice clean work there Dave.

Epoxy to put cylinder and liner together ??? Won't the heat degrade the epoxy after a while?

Bernd


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## dreeves (Jan 5, 2009)

The engine an air engine I dont think there would be much heat. I also made the cylinder a slip fit into the base incase there would be a problem.

What are your thoughts chuck


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## Bernd (Jan 5, 2009)

Sounds fine. I just thought it was a hit-n-miss engine. 

I wasn't paying attention again as usual. :big:

Bernd


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## Brass_Machine (Jan 5, 2009)

Hey Dave,

That is looking pretty good. Fast work I say.

Will be giving you a call in a day or two about Cabin Fever.

Eric


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## cfellows (Jan 5, 2009)

dreeves  said:
			
		

> The engine an air engine I dont think there would be much heat. I also made the cylinder a slip fit into the base incase there would be a problem.
> 
> What are your thoughts chuck



Can't imagine there being a problem with this. There's no heat generated at all. I actually have a hit n miss engine that runs on fuel. I used epoxy to fasten the cylinder/waterjacket to the base and it hasn't failed yet in over 8 years.

Chuck


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## Maryak (Jan 6, 2009)

Looking Good Dave :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## jack404 (Jan 6, 2009)

Dreeves

looking good mate!

for your info the green loctite is used to bond rifle barrels to liners ( inserts some call em)

i have one here thats had 2000+ rounds through it and its been hot at times too

all good! 

a lot of the new epoxies can get rid of heat faster than copper now just check the loctite web site to check if its suitable ( theres a good chart there )

the barrels for the 40mm chain guns are made with inserts that are glued in and i've seen them glowing hot

David i think it will be ok  

keep up the good work 

cheers 

jack


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## T70MkIII (Jan 6, 2009)

Looking really nice, Dave.


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## shred (Jan 6, 2009)

jack404  said:
			
		

> Dreeves
> 
> looking good mate!
> 
> for your info the green loctite is used to bond rifle barrels to liners ( inserts some call em)


Loctite #620 "Retaining Compound" is the one (there's some other 'green' medium-strength threadlocker or something-- you don't want that)

I've used it on pistol compensators and live steam parts and it holds extremely well (as long as both parts are _clean_ when applied). Plan for it to be just about permanent once set.


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## Bernd (Jan 6, 2009)

Very interesting info on Locitite. Didn't know things that get hot can use Loctite to hold them together. 

Thank you muchly. :bow:

Bernd


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## rleete (Jan 6, 2009)

The Loctite bottle I have even gives curing times for heating. Sets faster the hotter it gets.


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## dreeves (Jan 6, 2009)

Shred is right I have used Loctite #620 "Retaining Compound" in the past on bolts and it is almost impossible to remove them when cured. I didnt have any for this project so I used the epoxy.

I look forward to seeing everyone at cabin fever on saturday.


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## shred (Jan 6, 2009)

Bernd  said:
			
		

> Very interesting info on Locitite. Didn't know things that get hot can use Loctite to hold them together.
> 
> Thank you muchly. :bow:
> 
> Bernd


Loctite's data sheet says #620 is recommended for applications to 200'C and suggests heating parts to 250'C for disassembly and disassembling hot-- their chart shows it's still at 75% of room temp strength at 250'C, so it doesn't just fall apart.


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## Superfast (Jan 6, 2009)

Great looking engine Dave! 

I really like the way the countersunk cap screws look.

I just posted a link to the governor drawings in the "photo's" section, part of the "Small Chuck's Single Hit & Miss" thread. Hopefully you can make some sense of them! I just took mine apart to get machining marks cleaned up and ended up re-designing most of it. Hopefully I will have it back together within the next week or so. It will have a totally new look to it.

Scott


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## dreeves (Jan 7, 2009)

I got some new work done on the engine tonight :big: :big:

I started on the head. I statred with a block to do all the bolt holes and valve hole. I will drill and ream the exhaust hole before I round it to the 1.250 dia and the .625 dia.

The first picture is of the print from autocad. I ended up making the part again because that pesky .625 dim on the left side should be .6875. :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:






The second is of the part center drilled 






The bolt holes were drilled and then counter bored for the 2-56 socket head bolts










I next drilled and reamed the .375 dia hole for the Valve body






The last thing I did was to drill and tap the 2-56 set screw hole to hold the valve body. 






Here is what she looks like as of now.














well the last thing I did tonight was to enjoy a beverage ;D ;D ;D


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## cfellows (Jan 7, 2009)

Nice work, Dave, it's really coming along.

Chuck


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## Bernd (Jan 7, 2009)

Ya, nice work. But I've got to ask. In the second pic where you are drilling with a center drill, what is keeping the part up and level? I don't see any parallels under the part.

Bernd


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## dreeves (Jan 7, 2009)

bernd,

I cheated. the part was placed on parallels upon setup. The holes would have hit them when drilled. I knock them out very gently brfore I drilled. They will not move due to most of the part being in the vice and I use little pressure when drilling. This may not be the best way to do it but it has worked on several engines I have worked on and I have never had a problem.

Good Eye you caught me ;D ;D


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## Brass_Machine (Jan 7, 2009)

dreeves  said:
			
		

> bernd,
> 
> I cheated. the part was placed on parallels upon setup. The holes would have hit them when drilled. I knock them out very gently brfore I drilled....



I have done that a few times...

Eric


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## shred (Jan 8, 2009)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> I have done that a few times...
> 
> Eric


same here.. another sometimes-useful dodge in this situation is drilling 90% of the way then finishing on the drill press later.


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## dreeves (Jan 8, 2009)

I got some new work done on the engine tonight.

I worked on the head along with the valve and pushrod.I started by making a fixture to hold the head for the work to be done.

Here is the head on the fixtrue before any work is done







This is cutting the contour of the 1.25 Dia. I used autocad to get the X and Y for the contour. 

















I then move to the .625 Dia. and did the same thing.









I then made the valve and used a spring from a ballpoint pen. As yo ucan see I aslo made the rod for the pushrod.





Here is the parts on the engine.





More to come :big:


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## cfellows (Jan 8, 2009)

Ya done good, Dave! 

Chuck


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## T70MkIII (Jan 8, 2009)

That looks fantastic, Dave - looking forward to seeing the next pics.


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## Maryak (Jan 9, 2009)

Looking really good Dave :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Bernd (Jan 9, 2009)

Dave,

Very nice technique you used to contour the part. I saw that done many years ago at the place I worked. They used a tape controlled machine to move the X and Y axis to come up with the shape of a master cam. Nice job finishing up those cutting marks.

Looks better than what a CNC could do. ;D Probably faster too! :big: :big:

Bernd


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## deverett (Jan 9, 2009)

Dave.

You are doing a fine job on that little engine. Can't wait to see it finished.

Now, just a quick question for the more machining challenged amongst us - that's me. In your earlier pics, there is a little thing sitting on your vice that looks like two bars with slide rods and kept apart by a spring. What the hell is it?

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## Noitoen (Jan 9, 2009)

steamdave  said:
			
		

> two bars with slide rods and kept apart by a spring. What the hell is it?
> 
> Dave
> The Emerald Isle



It looks to me like some kind of "indexing" device, like when you need to drill many equal parts. Set the machine once and repeat the holes in every part the same. (Pardon my English)


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## mklotz (Jan 9, 2009)

It's called a vise work stop. See...

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=619-3352&PMPXNO=16721073&PARTPG=INLMK3

It clamps to the fixed vise jaw and provides a means of positioning successive work pieces for repeated operations.


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## cfellows (Jan 9, 2009)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> It's called a vise work stop. See...
> 
> http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=619-3352&PMPXNO=16721073&PARTPG=INLMK3
> 
> It clamps to the fixed vise jaw and provides a means of positioning successive work pieces for repeated operations.



... or replacing the same part back into the same place if you have to take it out of the vice for some reason 

Chuck


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## dreeves (Jan 9, 2009)

bernd,

thanks for the good words. I didnt like the part as made thats why I didnt complete the sanding of the tool marks. If you look close to the area where the two circles come together you can see I muse have missed a step because the dia. is to small. The head is smaller than the Cylinder. I will use the head to get the engine running than remake the part.

Also to Steamdave for answering the vise stop question. I love it because as chuck stated you can take the part out then replace it.


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## Brass_Machine (Jan 9, 2009)

Looking good Dave!

Eric


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## Bernd (Jan 10, 2009)

dreeves  said:
			
		

> bernd,
> 
> thanks for the good words. I didnt like the part as made thats why I didnt complete the sanding of the tool marks. If you look close to the area where the two circles come together you can see I muse have missed a step because the dia. is to small. The head is smaller than the Cylinder. I will use the head to get the engine running than remake the part.



Dave,

It looked fine to me, but now that you've told the world you've got to fix it. :big: Had you said nothing nobody but you would have known. 

Still looking very nice. Keep plugging away. Videos when running, right? ;D

Bernd


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## dreeves (Jan 10, 2009)

Videos,

I seem to have a problem with that. When I upload the video is says it was uploaded to the server but it does not sho in my folder?

Has anybody else have that problem. I have videos of other engines I have posted and would like to add them


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## cfellows (Jan 10, 2009)

Dave, where are you uploading the videos to?

I generally upload my videos to YouTube then copy the link over to the posting on HMEM. Others, I notice, use Photobucket, etc.

Chuck


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## Brass_Machine (Jan 10, 2009)

Talked to Dave a few minutes ago. I am going to help him with this.

Eric


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## deverett (Jan 10, 2009)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> It's called a vise work stop. See...
> 
> It clamps to the fixed vise jaw and provides a means of positioning successive work pieces for repeated operations.



Ah so. Thanks for the explanation, Marv.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## dreeves (Jan 21, 2009)

Got some new work on the engine today. I made the cam gear and cam. I also made the valve. I tested the valve and when I put the air to the and rotate the cam it makes a nice pop. I will make the crank gear this weekend and hope to have it run. :big:


















now its time for a beer


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## malcolmt (Jan 21, 2009)

Hi Dave

Thats a lovely piece of work you are doing there and thanks for the progress reports.

Kind regards

Malcolm


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## dreeves (Jan 21, 2009)

Malcolm,

Thanks for the kind words. :big:


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## Maryak (Jan 21, 2009)

Dave,

It's going great. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## cfellows (Jan 22, 2009)

Lookin good, Dave. You've got some nice touches there.

Chuck


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## dreeves (Jan 23, 2009)

I got it to run with a temp flywheel. I dont know what happened to the sound?

It will run much better when I finish it

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qmbx-J6zKs0[/ame]


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## rake60 (Jan 23, 2009)

Nice! Thm:

Can't wait to see it completely finished.
Great work!

Rick


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## dreeves (Feb 1, 2009)

I got some time to be in the shop today and got some more work done on the engine. I can see the finish line now. :big: :big:

I got the front support rounded to match the cylinder.







I also got the flywheels complete except paint.






The last thing made today was the first part of the base. I used a router bit to cut the profile. This part will sit on top of a corian base.






Got to get back to the super bowl


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## cfellows (Feb 1, 2009)

Looking good, Dave. Where'd you get those flywheels? I like the nice wide rims.

CHuck


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## dreeves (Feb 1, 2009)

Chuck,
I got them at Cabin Fever. They are from PM reserch.


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