# Bazmak-Diary of Brian Rupnows horiz. twin



## bazmak (Dec 3, 2014)

After finishing the beam engine Brian suggested his horizontal twin as
the next project and kindly emailed me the drawings.A nice little engine.
Also have his thread to guide me so here goes'
As he did i started with the crankshaft although i used a different method
of fabrication.More later.I was impressed with with his method of making the webs,so followed suit.The crankshaft went well until the final light cut
cleaning off the weld and click the joint moved.Scrap damn scrap,no way to
remedy.When faced with situation its best not to dive back into the same.
Gather faculties,think improvements take time and switch to another part.
Bought the matls and proceeded with the base and 3 crankshaft brkts.TBC


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## Cogsy (Dec 4, 2014)

I don't see any photos. Just me or did you forget them?


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## Swifty (Dec 4, 2014)

I'm ready to follow your build. th_wwp

Paul.


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## bazmak (Dec 4, 2014)

Plenty of photos.Will post as thread proceeds.Be patient ive only just started
The trouble with starting the thread too soon is that you get behind
Espescially when things go wrong.When are you starting ??


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## bazmak (Dec 4, 2014)

Ok you have pushed me into it.Photos may be out of order and then i will have to play catchup
Made the base from 16mm alum.Marked out and cut oversize with my small
woodworking bandsaw with new metal blade.Works really well.Skimmed to size on the mill.The 3 crank brkts i made from 10 thk alum.Marked out and cut oversize on the bandsaw.Cut thru the brg jointline and skimmed the faces in the mill.Drilled,tapped and cbored,fitted a piece of paper in the joints and bolted together with cap screws.Marked out and drilled 6mm hole in each
on the joint line.Drilled and tapped and bolted to the baseplt.Lined all 3 brkts up with a 6mm shaftwith slight movement on the fixings.Bolted all 3 together with 6mm bolt and a clamp and milled all 3 to size leaving nom 20 thou on bott edges.Located 1 at a time on lathe faceplt by pushing up with tailstock centre
and clamping up.Bored for nice fit for ball bearing to 2 brkts.Middle brkt was bored thru 16 dia.
For the split brass bush i cut a 16mm long x 3/4"round brass and bandsawed thru centrelin.Light skim in mill.Resultant elipse was 19x 17mm
Gripped in 4 jaw and set split on centreline.Faced and turned 16diax4lg
Reversed and fitted in a 16d collet faced and turned to 16dia,reversed in collet and faced to 11mm lg and drill just under 8mm.Removed paper and clamped up for the 2 ball bearings.Spot of locktite to fit the slit bush and clamped in position with 20 thou projecting each side Reamed to 5/16'
TBC with photos


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 4, 2014)

Bazmak--My heart is with you. That crankshaft is an absolute Bastard.--After that, the rest comes easy. And yes, of course we want pictures.---Brian


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## Herbiev (Dec 4, 2014)

Hey Baz. We need proof. th_wwpth_wwp


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## bazmak (Dec 4, 2014)

OK  OK im retired dont put me under pressure.Like being back at work
I had trial fitted the base and brkts with a 6mm shaft running free
I now made the main shaft from 5/16" SSand turned the ends down to 7mm
to fit the ball bearings.I then did a second trial assembly with the shaft and fitted bearings.The shaft was stiff but running free.I had left a nom 20 thou
on the bases of the brkts for final cleanup.When i checked the shaft height
i was 10 thou high at one end and 22 thou high at the other e

nd.Photos'''''


















I drilled and tapped an M5 in my angle plt,turned down the head of an m5 cap hd to 5/16" and skimmed the centre brkt to the correct height
I the reduced the cap hd to 7mm and on the same setting skimmed the 2 outer brkts.Assembled again and voila,near enough.Shaft is tight but turns ok. 2nd crankshaft is almost finished but wont post until that final cut is done.TBC


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 5, 2014)

Looks good----and looks familiar!!!-- Make sure the "throws" are set at 90 degrees to each other in final assembly if you want the engine to be a self starter.--Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Dec 5, 2014)

Bazmac
 love the face plate on your lathe were did that came from ??
 nice work
 Luc


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## Herbiev (Dec 5, 2014)

Thanks Baz. Looks great


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## bazmak (Dec 5, 2014)

Hi Canadian horsepower.I have done a thread.Its worth its weight in gold
That and the t slot angle plt.If you have any trouble finding the thread let me know


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## bazmak (Dec 5, 2014)

Hi Brian,i dont know how to send a personal message can you explain ?
How accurate does the 90o throw have to be i only lined it by eye ?
Question. Can you see any problems with inclining the cylinders ??
I dont like the big chunk of alum pack and would like to do something different
I would appreciate it if you could set out a suitable angle to give approx max 16mm height of block at the front and whatever at the back to the nearest nice rounded angle dim  It should be fairly easy with your drgs on cad.Regards Barry


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## bazmak (Dec 5, 2014)

Finished the crank with no problems.With fabricated cranks i prefer to do most of the machining before assembly.The only machining after assy should be cleanup
The first crank was ok the only problem being a faulty weld so with the 2nd one i overengineered for loction and weld penetration etc.Here Goes
I liked Brians method for making the webs and i still had the turning fixture.The first one i made the webs from 3mm thk.This time i milled 5mm flat to 150thou thk
I increased the shaft size to 5/16 ground SS no machining for the journals.I made the main shaft and turned the ends down for 7mm b bearings
The webs i drilled 6mm and 5/16 reamed and drilled and tapped the ends M3.I turned 2 pind 6dia x 150 thou long on each end.The first 75 thou was 6 thou down and the 
2nd 75 thou was a press fit.WEbs were csk and pins chamfered.The webs were aligned with 5/16 rod and the ins pressed in.The gap ws checked and the webs were nipped on to the shaft with the M3 grubscxrews
The two sub assys were then silver soldered on the outside only and all cleaned up.The two sub assys were then set in the correct position on the shaft and nipped up with the grub screws
Double checked and the drilled into the shaft one screw at a time.The grub screws were locked tight .Makes accurate assy easy and also helps take the load.Then silver solderd as required
The shaft had been undercut local to each weld and the webs had been csk.I then cleand up in the lathe and by hand as much as possible
Now for the tricky part.I hacksawed and removed  the 2  sections of shaft and set up in the mill to skim off the residue.No fancy tricky machining in the lathe.Works well.See photos as requested


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## Cogsy (Dec 5, 2014)

Baz - if you click on someone's name on the left where their info is (posts, location, etc) a drop down will appear and one option is ' send private message'.


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## bazmak (Dec 5, 2014)

Many thanks cogsey


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 6, 2014)

Baz--I got your private email. What angle do you want the cylinders to set at? Unfortunately, due to a bad computer crash a few years ago i lost all of my solid models of this engine. However, fortunately, I was able to download the pdf files from my hosting site, so I can recreate the solid models and consequently give you whatever angle you want the cylinders to be at. I suggest keeping the cylinder block unchanged and just modifying the spacer block under the cylinder block. As you may realize, putting the cylinders on an angle will also change the horizontal distance from the center of the crankshaft to a "known point" on the cylinder block. Since you already have the base made, I can account for that difference in the design of the spacer block, so that nothing changes on your base plate.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 6, 2014)

Okay, I've taken a couple of hours this afternoon and remodeled most of the parts based on the information in the pdf downloads. This has always been a very popular engine, and I've been wanting to do this for a while anyways. If you look at the "general arrangement" drawing in the pdf files, you will see that there is a dimension of 7.52" from the center of the crankshaft to the back side of the cylinder block. this MUST be held no matter what angle the cylinder block sets at. You will also see that in the side view, the center of the 1" thick cylinder block is in line with the center of the crankshaft. That also MUST be held, regardless of what angle the cylinder block sets at.  So--you can set the cylinder block up to any angle you want as long as you don't change those two relationships. The cylinder block, if tilted to any angle, must "rotate" around the center of the crankshaft. This isn't too bad up to about 30 degrees off horizontal, but once you get beyond that, the spacer between the cylinder block and the baseplate begins to get really weird.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 6, 2014)

This is what it looks like with the cylinder block tilted 30 degrees off horizontal. You can see that the spacer block between the base and the cylinder block will begin to get pretty strange looking.


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## bazmak (Dec 6, 2014)

Hi Brian,i want to swing it down say 5/10o such that the spacer block reduces to a more feasable size.Say 16mm at the front so i can make  from the 16mm matl i have the rear dim will reduce to say min 5/10mm and the block will move forward slightly.I should have set it out on the drawing board first
to get approx dims but auto cd will work ou everything and save me some Trig.
regards Barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 6, 2014)

Okay Baz--I just got your next private message. If this is what you meant, it isn't going to work out very good. It can be done, but you would have to make a new bottom plate and put the threaded holes that hold the cylinder block in place on an angle to match the holes in the cylinder block. The spacer would have a maximum thickness of 16mm and a minimum of 3.27mm and the angle would be a resultant based on the other dimensions that must be held. If you want to do this because of preferring it to look "angled" then this would be the result. If you are concerned about the cost of a thicker spacer at 41.3 mm as per the original design, then make the spacer out of wood.---Seriously.--All it is doing is holding the cylinder in place.


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## bazmak (Dec 6, 2014)

As you say only the spacer block will change .Size,shape and location


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 6, 2014)

Baz---I think we both posted at the same time. The spacer block will change, but so will the holes in the baseplate. If the drawing truly reflects what you want, i will send you a drawing of the new spacer block and new hole locations for the baseplate.


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## bazmak (Dec 6, 2014)

Hi Brian,just got your details.That is what i was thinking but the 3.27 dim is a touch small.I ca obtain alum up to 25mm thk so the 16mm can be increased up to say 25mm max and the 3mm to approx 12mm with a nice whole no angle
for simplicity.The main reason for this proposal is partly cost/availability of matls,but i think the engine will look more compact,and different
Regards Barry


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## bazmak (Dec 6, 2014)

We seem to be working at the same time.Dont worry about the fixing holes etc,i will sort all that out.I need the size of the block and angle to buy matl and make.Also the location,to fix Regards Barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 6, 2014)

Does this work for you? A nice even 8 degree angle and a maximum spacer thickness of 23.67mm. If this is what you want I will post a new drawing of the spacer block and the baseplate holes which attach the cylinder block immediately.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 6, 2014)

Here we go---


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## bazmak (Dec 7, 2014)

Looks good brian.I will drill and tap the block to suit the cylinder as drg
Will drill separate holes thru base and tap into the block probably at 90 o
to them.All i need is a ref dim. for positioning the block.Horizontal from the crankshaft CL regards Barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 7, 2014)




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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 7, 2014)

For anybody following this thread who wants to see what Baz is building--This is my original engine. I have just remodeled the entire engine, based on the pdf files, because I had lost all the solid models in a computer crash a few years ago. I noticed that in the drawing downloads that I had never put in any drawings of the intake manifold system, and had not shown the port plug bolts nor the main cylinder block hold down bolts, so I have added them to the model. And yes, before anybody asks, assembly of the manifold is a rather amazing stunt. The two vertical pieces of tube with wrench flats on them are screwed into the cylinder block and tightened down. The primary air inlet, the cross tube, and the end plugs are soldered together as a unit. Then the top ends of the vertical intake tubes are coated with Loctite and the soldered manifold assembly is set in place over the vertical pieces of tubing with the wrench flats on them.--Crazy, but it works fine!!


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## bazmak (Dec 14, 2014)

Next i made the flywheels.2 pieces of mild steel 4" dia x 1" lg cost me $50,
my wallet or heart would not take the stress of bronze,if i could get it.
Turned down as per drg,lots of chips,lathe on its upper limits.Do not have a rotary table so spokes are out and holes in.I set up a fixture in the mill
and cut 6 holes in each with a 22mm rota broach.Again mill on its limit.
Next will be the inclined cylinder


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 14, 2014)

Looks really great. The only spoked flywheels I ever made are on that engine. My other 20? engines all have the flywheels drilled as you have done.---Brian


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## bazmak (Dec 15, 2014)

I did the holes on the beam engine but they were smaller.Just marked out and drilled.I wa 
s very pleased with the rota broach and the fixture setup worked a treat
All nicely spaced on the same pcd


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## bazmak (Dec 19, 2014)

I made the cylinder block from mild steel and for a no of reasons decided to incline the cylinder.Brian kindly gave me the set out dims.Rather than use
a piece of 25mm thick alum as first planned i laminated a piece of 10 and 16 thk which i had.I made a 10mm upstand shaped to fit the full width of the base
and milled the tapered block from 16thk.The block was screwed to the upstand
and the upstand fixed to the base with hex sockets from the uside.The cylinder fixings were as per drg.
I have 3 boxed sets of cheap carbide router bits only a few of which i have used over the years.I thought they would work well in the mill on alum.
So i added a little detail to the base and tapered block.I removed some corners with the convex and concave bits.Also used an ogee and chamfer bits.
Works well,final light cut,high speed and climb milling produced a good finish
and the roller brg followed the edge well.Well thats all for this year,hope you have a merry Xmas and santa brings you all your requested Goodies
Regards barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 20, 2014)

Looks impressive so far Baz!!!


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## bazmak (Dec 30, 2014)

Next was the connecting rods.Although Brians were a work of art in the old school,availability and cost of matls meant they were a no go.I decided to redesign and simplify.Not as pretty but cheap.I made the conn. rods from 25 x 6 flat alum with split brass brgs for the big ends and a simple pin for the little end.I added a little detail using a ball nosed router bit and made a fork from 13 dia brass to fit on the piston rod.Used a 6mm rad router bit,works well on brass.Bored the cylinder block and fabbed the end caps from 25x3 flat  and 13dia brass.Piston and rod were as drg.Next will be the eccentrics and valves. Getting there


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 30, 2014)

Looking good. I assume it turns over okay without the pistons bottoming out in the cylinder holes or the other end of the piston rods hitting on the cross head guides.---Brian


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## bazmak (Dec 30, 2014)

Just going out now to the shed.One fork hits the top of the head by about 10 thou.Need to skim a few thou off the head and fork to correct dim 
Still have to fit piston to rod and check travel etc.Then i have to take a short break and make tapered gibs for the lathe.Damned play still keeps coming back
From what others have advised its the only way to go.Now i have the mill
it should be easy


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## Herbiev (Dec 31, 2014)

Looking great Baz. If you need flywheels in the future give me a call. I have a lump of 5.5" round three foot long. I'll cut you off some slices if you help me lift it on the saw.


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## bazmak (Dec 31, 2014)

Thanks Herbiev.Grateful for anything really as small pieces cut locally are so expensive.I only have a hacksaw.The 4" round i bought cost $25 per cut.Will keep in touch. Regards barry


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## bazmak (Dec 31, 2014)

successful morning.Made the pistons and rods and fitted up.
Turning over nicely on 2 cylinders.Inclined block looks ok.
Also reassembled the beam engine and decided to make a plinth for the Stuart 10V.Used a router bit on 4 sides. Works well. Now i have 3 models for display. Started on the taper gibs for the lathe.Then the wife took me shopping
Happy new year everybody


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## bazmak (Jan 11, 2015)

Had to digress foe awhile .Stripped the lathe carriage down and did the tapered gib mod.Next was the eccentrics etc which i will describe.Anybody do it differently or comments are welcome.Faced 2 pieces of 1" bar to length +2mm and marked 1 end at 3/16 ctrs
Lined one pop with the tailstock and 4 jaw and drilled ,reamed and turned the concentric .Made a turning fixture cntre drill at .188 ctres and tap one M8.Hold in the 4 jaw and line up the ctre with the tailstock.Bolt the ex on and turn ecc. dia for both
Hold in 19mm collet and face both sids to length
Made the straps from 1"x1/4" brass.Marked out,grip in 4 jaw and bore.Bandsaw and linish profile.Made the forks from 1/2"dia brass and milled down to 10x 8mm etc etc.Made the rods from 3/16" s/s and screwed each end M4.Trial assy.Next will be the valves.Getting there.Problem is the shed gets too hot when it gets to 30oC and last week it hit 44


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 12, 2015)

Very Very nice.---Brian


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## bazmak (Jan 21, 2015)

Almost finished.Made and fitted the valve assys.Couple of deviations from plan
The width of the eccentric is 3/8 but the strap is 1/4.Once everything was aligned i fitted a couple of circlips and i made and fitted 3 brass oil cups
Will try and fit 2 more to the big end bearings.Set the engine on the lathe to run in and took some video.Hopefully for my first video upload
Just the inlet manifold to do then will try getting it running on air


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## bazmak (Jan 21, 2015)

Hopefully my first video


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## bazmak (Jan 21, 2015)

Used up my monthly allowance so uploading the video took forever
First one to to try to view please let me know if you can see it ok
This is my first video upload so dont know if im doing it right


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## Cogsy (Jan 21, 2015)

Yep, I can view it Baz. I prefer Youtube myself, might be just me but loading speed seems quicker and playback smoother. Of course my current PC is so old I've got to wind the crank to get it started, so that might be the issue.

Youtube does have the benefit of playing the video within the thread as well.

Your engine looks good, be interesting to see it run on air.


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## Swifty (Jan 21, 2015)

Can view it fine, like Cogsy I'm keen to see it run on air.

Paul.


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## bazmak (Jan 21, 2015)

Any advice on air supply.Brian thinks it will run on a 12v auto tyre pump.
Whats the best way to get 12v?
?/I have a battery charger will that put out 12v
I could always run it in the car off the cigarette lighter.Any ideas???


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## Cogsy (Jan 21, 2015)

Battery charger would probably work. A jump pack if you've got one. Cigarette lighter would work as well and maybe even an old school electric train transformer - I recallI used to run a car stereo off a train transformer in my bedroom when I was a lad.

Depending on how much air it needs, you may be able to buy a big enough aquarium air pump that plugs into 240V and you can run it in your house anytime.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 21, 2015)

Baz--It will run off a 12 volt air compressor pump. but--It takes a considerable pressure to self start. I find that I have to turn my pressure regulator up to a higher pressure to get the engine to "break free" and start, then immediately I can turn the air pressure down to quite low. If you are running off a low pressure pump, you might have to give the flywheel a spin by hand to get it started.


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## toolznthings (Jan 22, 2015)

Following along with great interest. Nice work ! Is it still possible to get a set of plans for this engine ?

Brian


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## jayville (Jan 23, 2015)

well done 
clem tasmania


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## tms6401 (Jan 23, 2015)

This is a very interesting build. I am following it as well.

Cheers

Tom


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## bazmak (Jan 31, 2015)

After taking a detour to make a mill vise and mod the linisher to 9" disc i
went back to finish the Inclined/horizontal twin.Just the inlet manifold to do,
Brian had done a later post to show this but as in line with a few other things i did it differently.Made the inlet manifold from brass round bar,drilled thru 4.2
and tapped the ends M5.Fitted two s/s button hd plugs.Drilled and tapped the block M5 and fitted the same screws to secure the manifold to the block.These were drilled up thru the ends and cross drilled to form the steam passages to the valve cylinders.A centre hole was drilled and will be sized/tapped to suit the air inlet connection
I will fit fibre washers to hopefully seal the connection screws.Just need to get connected to air and hopefully running.Will post further when i do.
Many thanks Brian,i love this little engine.Nice sized,well balanced and looks good.Just enough changes to put my own stamp on it


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 1, 2015)

Definitely looking forward to seeing this one run---Brian


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## bazmak (Feb 1, 2015)

Whats the correct way to set the timing Brian.I have set the piston strokeat midway then the valve travel at midway as a starting point ????


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 1, 2015)

Baz--the best way to do it is as I did it on my original build.--That is, supply air to one cylinder only and time it, and get it running, then shut off the air supply to that one and supply air only to the other cylinder and time it and get it running. Yes, I just got my engine down off the shelf and had a look. With the piston at full stroke (BDC) the valve should be at the center of it's travel, or very close to it. -Brian


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## gus (Feb 2, 2015)

Baz,

Good work and very impressive build. I am drooling. When we see the engine spinning??


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## tms6401 (Feb 2, 2015)

I also am waiting to see this one run. This is one of my favorite engines.

Tom


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 5, 2015)

Baz---What's happening? That thing should be running like a tiger by now!!!---Brian


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## bazmak (Feb 5, 2015)

I think i will buy a small compressor but first i will see if it will turn over with a bicycle pump.The end of the pump is i think a bicycle thread 26 tpi and i dont have tap/die.Will try to get male adaptor from bike shop and mod to fit ?
meanwhile i am doing a mod to the lathe and the grinder and making a few other bits and pieces.The shed gets over 110f in summer so i can only get a couple of hrs in the morning.Project will run i promise
Hows the weather in your neck of the woods.You may need the woodsplitter
Regards barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 5, 2015)

Barry--We have about 14" of snow, which really isn't that much compared to other years. Night time temperatures are fairy bitter at about -20C, daytime temps are hovering at about -5C to -15C. This is, so far, just an average Canadian winter. The only time I have seen 110F is when my wife and I drove across Death Valley in south western USA going from San Francisco, California to Las Vegas in Nevada. Summertime daytime temperatures here in June, July, August and early September average about 75F to 85F. I have never seen it go over 95 F here in Canada, but I have seen winter temperatures dip into the -45F range in some of the northern parts of Ontario I have lived in.


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## bazmak (Feb 6, 2015)

Hi Brian,just had a couple of hours in the shed.Its only 95o outside but the translucent roof of the shed means its 110 in there.Main problem is sweat
running into your eyes.Nearly finished a nice mod for the lathe will post when done.Few beers and a game of poker later.Hard life


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 13, 2015)

So---Is the engine running? It's been a long time since your last post.---Brian


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