# Home-made collet chuck and collets - some Q's



## arnoldb (Aug 19, 2009)

I've been keeping a growing "tools I need" list while building the Rocker and Fancy.

One of these needed tools is a decent way of accurately and solidly holding milling cutters and metal stock in the lathe headstock (Myford ML7).
Basically it boils down to "I need a collet chuck and/or collets". I researched various options, looked at prices and availability, as well as shipping to me here in Windhoek in Namibia, but cannot find anything to suit both my requirements and budget.

I can make MT2 collets, but they have the disadvantage of not having a through-hole for lengthier pieces of stock, as well as needing cutter shanks and stock to be a close tolerance to size.

My ideal would be ER collets and a spindle screw-on chuck. Some research on this showed that the normal ER series is not suitable for stock ?????.
I just cannot afford the commercially made screw-on chuck (or backplate mounted chuck) and collet set - for now.

So, It's down to:
1: Make my own "ER" (or based on that) chuck and collets.
If I do, the chuck body will be fine-grained cast iron - that should be OK?. The collets will have be from silver steel (drill rod)?? - hardened and then tempered to dark blue (spring) temper ? - I _think_ I have all the tools needed to do this, and can locally buy the stock - I'll just have to make a jig to slit the collets, but that could be recycled into a usable collet block.

2: Make MT2 collets with a drawbar? Will silver steel treated as above work?

3: Suffer in silence, each time set up the tool/work in the 4-jaw chuck (my 3 jaw has quite a bit of run-out) with the DI, and carry on like now? - I'm trying to save up to buy a mill; another couple of months and I can buy an ER chuck and collets from the savings, but then the mill has to wait for even longer.

4: ???

Any Yay's, Nay's, or suggestions will be much appreciated.

Regards, Arnold


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## CrewCab (Aug 19, 2009)

Arnold, would one of *These* help, I've got one and it works fine, you could just use some threaded bar for a drawbar.

CC


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## rake60 (Aug 19, 2009)

My 9 x 20 lathe has an MT3 taper in the spindle.
I already had an ER32 collet chuck and set of collets 
for my X2 mini mill so all I needed was a MT3 holder for
the lathe. Here's the story:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2239.0

The draw bar is just a length of all-thread a heavy washer and a big wingnut.
It works great for me. The depth of the MT3 holder is only about 4"
When the parts to be machined are small enough to call the collet holder
into service they are not usually longer than that.

Rick


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## bentprop (Aug 19, 2009)

> My ideal would be ER collets and a spindle screw-on chuck. Some research on this showed that the normal ER series is not suitable for stock Huh???.


That's the first I've heard of it!how is round stock different from a round milling cutter?
That just doesn't make any sense.
As for making your own,full credit to you if you manage it,but it seems like a lot of work for relatively little benefit.Mind you,with you being in such an out of the way place,it is a different story.If you ever need an odd size,you could make it up straight away,rather than having to wait a month for it to be shipped to you.
If you make a chuck to exactly the same spec as ER,you could of course always buy in extra collets later.
I have the ER32 chuck in my mill-drill,on a MT3 taper,but it never gets removed.I simply haven't found the need for them in the lathe.But i could if I ever wanted to,using an mt5 to 3 reducer.
If you have a vertical slide,you could do your light milling in the lathe,and hack into your mill fund to get the collet set.
It's a bit of an unfortunate "chicken and egg"situation for you :-\


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## RobWilson (Aug 19, 2009)

Hi Arnold 
 you Could up make up a few 2MT collets in the common sizes for now and and copy the myford design for closing the collets allows full lengths through the collet. 
regards Rob


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## deverett (Aug 20, 2009)

Arnold

If it just for holding endmills and imporation of a collet chuck is too expensive, make up your own holder. They are quick and easy to do and will start you off until you can get the 'proper thing'.

Put a bit of 1" mild steel held in the chuck, drill a hole in the end and start tapping a draw bar thread (I suggest either 10mm or 3/8"BSW, but whatever you have. An aside: if making your own taper tooling, keep the drawbar threads standard!). Support the end with a centre and cut a 2MT. Leave about 1" - 1/1/2" of full diameter and part/saw off from the stock.
Remove from the chuck and put your new taper into the headstock and secure with your drawbar. Drill a hole for your end mill. If you have a machine reamer ream to the final size, if you don't, then drill in successive steps up to final diameter.
Finish by putting in a grub screw to impinge on the shank of your endmill.

Maybe not quite as accurate as a collet, but good enough for most of the sort of jobs you are likely to do.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## arnoldb (Aug 20, 2009)

Thank you for the responses everyone 

CC/Rick, I had a look at those; unfortunately, they fail my need for allowing extended lengths of stock through...
Bentprop - You're right with the "chicken and egg" thing... and yes, besides the time delay to get something shipped here, I have found very few online suppliers that are actually willing to ship to Namibia, and if they do, I pay as much for postage as the item costs...
Dave, thanks for the suggestion.
Rob, I've been thinking about the "original myford" principle as well... It might just be the easier way to go for me; any suggestions as to what metal I should use for the collets if I go this route ? I notice from the image you posted that the back end of the collet appears to be thinner than the rest of the taper - do you think this will make the collet clamp down properly for a bit bigger range than it's nominal size ?
Sorry for all the questions - I'm prepared to put a fair amount of effort into making this if the end result (subject to my machining skills) can justify it.

Kind regards, Arnold


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## deverett (Aug 20, 2009)

Arnold

If you decide to go for the Myford type collet, be advised that they accept only the correct size of material. In other words, they do not have an extended clamping range like the ER collets.

There has been at least one article about machining them. I can't remember where, possibly MEW.  I do remember that they were made in pairs nose to nose. Silver steel was used in their construction.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## arnoldb (Aug 21, 2009)

Thanks Dave - I was concerned about the clamping range on those.

I think I'll go the whole hog, and just make a collet chuck and collets based on ER - in the long-term that might be the best solution.
Lots of work, but it should be fun (Am I the only masochist here? ;D)

Regards, Arnold


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## deverett (Aug 21, 2009)

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> Thanks Dave - I was concerned about the clamping range on those.
> 
> I think I'll go the whole hog, and just make a collet chuck and collets based on ER - in the long-term that might be the best solution.
> Lots of work, but it should be fun (Am I the only masochist here? ;D)
> ...



Arnold
I made up an ER collet holder for my Thiel milling machine - 5MT shank, but being chicken, I bought the nut. These frequently come up on eBay. Item no. 380145020415 shows an example.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## arnoldb (Aug 22, 2009)

Thanks Dave 

Anybody interested in seeing build pictures ?

Regards, Arnold


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## ozzie46 (Aug 22, 2009)

Of course! th_wwp th_wwp th_wwp th_wwp

 Ron


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## Majorstrain (Aug 22, 2009)

I'll be lurking, 8)
I need to make one too. :bow:

Cheers
Phil


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## deverett (Aug 23, 2009)

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> Thanks Dave
> 
> Anybody interested in seeing build pictures ?
> 
> Regards, Arnold


Arnold

I'm out in the Perishin' Gulf at the moment. When I get home in week's time, I'll get a picture and post it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## deverett (Sep 1, 2009)

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> Thanks Dave
> 
> Anybody interested in seeing build pictures ?
> 
> Regards, Arnold


As promised herewith some pics of my home made ER collet chuck. I only got home a few hours ago, so nothing more than a few basic shots.










I started out with a 2-1/2" diameter lump of steel. No idea of the quality, but it was the very devil to machine, even with carbide tools. The surface finish was achieved, after basic turning, with a file and emery cloth. Everything was 'blued' to check the fits and it turned out satisfactorily for me - not being a purist. There are still a few ridges that I could not get rid of and maintain size. Realise that this was made in the dark ages before I knew anything about this group!

I used the topslide to cut the taper - it is described as a 'Truncated 5MT'. First I set up a 5MT taper tool between centres to set the angle on the top slide.

I put the lump of steel in the 4 jaw chuck and centre drilled the end for support. I then cut the end down to accept the drawbar thread, which was cut on a trial and error basis until it fitted. Next the taper was cut and tried in the mill's headstock and 'made' to fit. 

Fortunately, the taper in the headstock of my lathe is also 5MT, so it was just a case of putting the finished taper into the headstock while the internal taper for the collet was cut. The concentricity of the chuck should now be equal to the built-in accuracy of the lathe. The recess for the collet is about 1/8" deeper than where the collet is seen sitting in the nose to allow room for any contraction of the collet when it is tightned. Finally, I cut the collet nut thread. It is longer than required so that I would have been able to shorten the collet taper if I cut it too big. The through hole i drilled at 1/2", just to be able to pass long stock through it, but that's hardly necessay on a milling machine. 










I haven't measured the runout, but I am happy with the way things turned out. Everything 'looks' to be OK. Like I said above, I'm not a purist!

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## Harry. (Feb 3, 2020)

This is an interesting project. Did you manage to make the collets you needed?
Did you use a caliper to measure an existing collet? What caliper did you use? I'm thinking about getting a vernier caliper, but there are so many brands. I've heard that Insize are good, have you ever used them?


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## Apprentice707 (Feb 3, 2020)

I have an old Super 7 which I have added to over the years (about 30 so far). I bought it secondhand and it came with a set of imperial Myford collets. They work reasonably well , but cost the earth these days even secondhand. I wanted a collet system to use on any of my small machines so I went for an ER25 system. The same as you I thought the collets and Myford holder were too expensive so I bought a set of collets direct from China and made the Myford threaded holder from 2.5 inch stock. It took a while but provided me with the experience of cutting internal and external threads in metric and imperial. I also bought the closing nut from China. 
I had a quick look on E bay and didn't see any Chinese companies sending to South Africa, I am sure there must be one somewhere.

The collets and holder have worked out fine after many years of use.

Happy turning

B


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## goldstar31 (Feb 3, 2020)

The original poster has not posted for almost 8 years and  my comments to Harry and co are to avoid the Myford collets although I have a set of Imperial ones. Frankly, they are fine for holding PRECISE dimensions but are liable to crack if undersize stock is used. 

 I have a set of home made ones made per Leonard Sparey in the Amateurs Lathe book but I instantly settle for 'Chinese' ER25 and ER32 from RDG in Yorkshire.  I got to the daft stage in life where I want things to interchange between my Myford Super 7B, my Sieg C4- with n added vertical mill drill attachment, my mill drill, a Vertex dividing head which converts to a rotary table, a GHT small dividing head and obviously my Clarkson and the present Mk1 Quorn which might convert to take it to a Mark3 if I live long enough

We have no idea what will happen during this 2019 Coronavirus  with the Chinese government having to spend billions propping up their economy but I would humbly suggest that others to 'get their act together' quickly.

My reading of a wider field than most!

And we Brits have Brexit and the other risk of a steel industry on or after the brink of collapse. Les Grenouilles are using their Verniers( a 'Hapsburg/ French design) to further alter the  works.

 enough to drive a soul to drink


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## awake (Feb 3, 2020)

Harry. said:


> This is an interesting project. Did you manage to make the collets you needed?
> Did you use a caliper to measure an existing collet? What caliper did you use? I'm thinking about getting a vernier caliper, but there are so many brands. I've heard that Insize are good, have you ever used them?



Harry, a bit of machining 101: A caliper is a very handy tool for measuring all sorts of things, as long as you keep in mind that its very *best* accuracy will be on the order of +/- .001" ... and if you are inexperienced, sloppy, or just moving a little too quickly, that might shift over a decimal point to +/- .010. Any twisting or "cocking" of the caliper will throw off the measurement significantly, so it takes some practice to learn how to get repeatable, reliable results.

That doesn't mean don't get them; they are invaluable for quick measurement, and they are capable of a number of different sorts of measurement, not just the outside diameter, but also the inside diameter and depth. Just don't depend on them for the highest accuracy.

You will get much greater accuracy with a micrometer. They are a bit slower to use, and less versatile - generally you need a different micrometer for inside diameters than for outside, and yet another micrometer for depth. (You can use telescoping gauges to take inside diameter measurements with an outside micrometer; that takes practice to get accurate measurements.) Even an inexperienced user should be able to get +/- .001" easily with a basic outside micrometer, and with experience you can shift that decimal point to the right, down to +/- .0001".

For either calipers or micrometers, you may have a "vernier" as part of the measurement markings. A vernier is simply a clever way of marking the tool such that you can subdivide the primary markings to very closely estimate the next decimal point or unit of measurement. On a caliper, the main beam may be marked at .025" intervals, and the vernier lets you resolve the last .025"; on a micrometer, generally you read the the barrel to get within .025", then read the dial to resolve the .025", then read the vernier to get to .0001".

Frankly, for a caliper, I wouldn't bother with a vernier; I'd get a digital. Even an inexpensive digital caliper can give decent results within the accuracy limits of what you can reasonably achieve with a caliper, once you learn how to use them properly.


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## abby (Feb 3, 2020)

This is an ER20 chuck I made for my Pultra lathe from a piece of en24T. The nut was purchased off Ebay very cheap as were the collets , you can buy them one at a time as you need them.
It fits the headstock or the tailstock using tubular drawbars so stock up to 10mm can pass through , although ER collets are not ideal for long lengths.
I plan to make another which will screw onto the spindle and the drawbar will not be necessary.
A digital caliper may be accurate to 0.001 " but I defy anyone to get repeatable readings of that precision. If you are going to make your own collets and chucks then micrometer readings will be better and a plug gauge for internals.


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## Cogsy (Feb 4, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> Frankly, they are fine for holding PRECISE dimensions but are liable to crack if undersize stock is used.
> 
> [SNIP]
> 
> My reading of a wider field than most!



Norm, if you're going to make a bold point by SHOUTING it at us in all caps, then later pat yourself on the back for your knowledge, you may want to get the terms correct. Precision is repeatability, accuracy is getting close to the target. If I throw 10 darts aiming at the bullseye of a dartboard and they all end up in triple eleven, then I am being very precise but I have poor accuracy. However, if I hit the bullseye one in three times, my accuracy isn't too bad but my precision is off. So a ground bar can have extremely good precision (uniform diameter) but have incredibly bad accuracy and break a collet.


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## goldstar31 (Feb 4, 2020)

I note your comments and humbly apologise.


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## awake (Feb 4, 2020)

abby said:


> A digital caliper may be accurate to 0.001 " but I defy anyone to get repeatable readings of that precision. If you are going to make your own collets and chucks then micrometer readings will be better and a plug gauge for internals.



No question on the superiority of micrometer readings, as I hope was clear above. But I have to say that my own experience suggests that repeatable readings with an accuracy of +/- .001 are indeed possible using a digital caliper. It does take practice and a careful "feel" for the tool. Probably there are some old-timers who can reliably take such a reading in a single try, but I always test any reading with another - or to say it another way, I never trust a caliper reading unless I CAN repeat it, every time I take it.

The exception would be a depth reading - while the versatility of a digital caliper does allow taking a depth reading, the "base" one uses in the process is so small / instable that variations of +/- .010 or more are the norm, at least for me. Again, probably someone with more experience can do better.


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## ShopShoe (Feb 5, 2020)

FWIW,

I made an ER-11 collet adapter following Arnold's original post a few years ago. It is not  a hard project to accomplish. I bought a collet nut and some collets from a supplier (Travers) and everything worked well to solve the problem I had at the time. I have since bought an ER-25 package of collet adapter and collets sold for my Mini-lathe by LMS. All of these things are not the high-end products, but do the job I need them to do. 

If you can afford the best, buy it; otherwise you have to balance your need against your budget for money and the time you want to spend making tooling.

--ShopShoe

P.S.: Even inexpensive micrometers offer more precision than calipers: They will increase your precision when you use them.

--SS


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## clockworkcheval (Feb 5, 2020)

Just a small comment on the use of silversteel: we do not use it any longer in our local horology club. We found the Swiss made ETG100 steel superior in ease of cutting and quality of finish. It can be hardened the same way and hardness as silversteel. We use it for shafts, pinions and gearcutters, and for the occasional off-size collet.


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## jacobball2000 (Feb 5, 2020)

What pic's? All I get is a pic icon with an X over it.


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## ALEX1952 (Feb 5, 2020)

With regards to holding long lengths in a collet Smart & Brown lathes used a system that had a tubular draw bar to close the collet via a hand wheel on the end of it, I seem to remember it having about a 1" bore but I don't recall the taper. (it was 50 years ago).


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## jacobball2000 (Feb 5, 2020)

What does this (With regards to holding long lengths in a collet Smart & Brown lathes used a system that had a tubular draw bar to close the collet via a hand wheel on the end of it, I seem to remember it having about a 1" bore but I don't recall the taper. (it was 50 years ago) have to do with no pictures?


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## ALEX1952 (Feb 6, 2020)

My comment refers to the original subject of collets and the desire to be able to hold long lengths of bar if the thread had been followed this would be apparent. It is common for post to wander a bit and then come back to the original main topic.


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## Harry. (Feb 14, 2020)

Do you recommend a particular brand of micrometer? Has anyone got experience using Insize products for example? I've seen that they make go no go gauges as well as micrometers.


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## awake (Feb 14, 2020)

If you earn a living from machining, you'll want to get something like a Mitutoyo - which will not be cheap, but should last you forever if cared for. If you are a hobby machinist, you may be satisfied with an import - take your pick on brands.

Note several things regardless of the brand:

The accuracy and precision (repeatability) of your readings will depend on developing a "feel" - it is possible to change the reading by half-a-thou by how firmly you turn it to the measurement. Two systems are used to try to give consistency of "feel" - a "friction" style and a "ratchet" style. There will be proponents of each - take your pick, and learn to use it against a standard so that you can get accurate and repeatable results.

But with regard to the standard, the second thing to know is that micrometers are adjustable. Generally there is a set screw (maybe under a cap) or some other mechanism to lock the barrel to the spindle. Once you have a consistent "feel" for how you use the micrometer, measure a standard, and if it is off, unlock the barrel, rotate to the correct reading, and lock it back. From time to time, check the micrometer against a standard to make sure it is still set correctly.

Finally, note that any debris, even tiny, can throw off the measurement. Make sure the part is clean, and make sure the ends of the spindle are clean as well.


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## stewartian8 (Feb 15, 2020)

Harry. said:


> Do you recommend a particular brand of micrometer? Has anyone got experience using Insize products for example? I've seen that they make go no go gauges as well as micrometers.


I have a few insize digital gauges, they work well, except they will chew thru batteries even when turned off. Alkaline cells have a steep voltage curve. Silver oxide cells will last longer as they maintain voltage better and you must use them with Mitutoyo. I have two Mitutoyo digital calipers one 15 years old and the other 10 and they still work perfectly.


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## Harry. (Feb 21, 2020)

I can't really afford a Mitutoyo or Mahr, although the Mahr 'digital wireless output' feature looks interesting. It looks like it feeds the dimensions into the computer using a little USB? I think I'm going to get vernier calipers. They seem to be more middle of the range for hobby machinists.


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## ALEX1952 (Feb 21, 2020)

Going back to 1968 Mitutoyo came into the UK and were treated with great skepticism, but as they were a third of the price of all the known brands were very popular with apprentices and quickly became the tool of choice, they were also the first to have carbide anvils on the mics, so basically would probably out live the user. In the 80,s premium brands of model aircraft engines O.S etc were copied by the Chinese and were not regarded as reliable but! were half the price and  gained a following 
and are now generally very good. Look how many generators garden tools etc have Honda clones and most of us don't give it a second thought. Soon Chinese imports will be the norm I'm sad to say. We live in a disposable society where the majority have to consider cost.


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## Harry. (Feb 27, 2020)

stewartian8 said:


> chew thru batteries even when turned off.


 Thanks for letting me know!
I've also been advised to look for IP67 which means it can be submerged in 1m of water for 30 minutes. I would have thought that they would all have this? Or does this rating refer to their measuring performance rather than corrosion resistance?


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## bluejets (Feb 28, 2020)

Harry. said:


> I can't really afford a Mitutoyo or Mahr, although the Mahr 'digital wireless output' feature looks interesting. It looks like it feeds the dimensions into the computer using a little USB? I think I'm going to get vernier calipers. They seem to be more middle of the range for hobby machinists.



You will never get as accurate a reading with a vernier compared to a micrometer, digital or not.
My first engines were built using a 30 year old Moore &Wright micrometer with the ratchet mechanism missing so feel was all I had to go by.
Micrometer can also be affected by temperature, hence the usual finger and thumb holding pattern while taking readings.


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## Ivan Winters (Mar 1, 2020)

ALEX1952 said:


> Going back to 1968 Mitutoyo came into the UK and were treated with great skepticism, but as they were a third of the price of all the known brands were very popular with apprentices and quickly became the tool of choice, they were also the first to have carbide anvils on the mics, so basically would probably out live the user. In the 80,s premium brands of model aircraft engines O.S etc were copied by the Chinese and were not regarded as reliable but! were half the price and  gained a following
> and are now generally very good. Look how many generators garden tools etc have Honda clones and most of us don't give it a second thought. Soon Chinese imports will be the norm I'm sad to say. We live in a disposable society where the majority have to consider cost.



Your correct about the reliability of generators, lawn movers etc with Honda engines but Honda is a Japanese Company not Chinese.


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## ALEX1952 (Mar 1, 2020)

I didn't say Honda was Chinese I said Honda clones made in China


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## bluejets (Mar 1, 2020)

I have found the cheaper brands of inside telescopic caliper to be no where near as good as the Moore&Wright or similar.
Difference being the cheaper brand have both ends floating whereas the latter above has only one end spring loaded.
Result is a better feel and therefore more accurate when transferred to an open mic.
Use the double ball inside caliper for smaller holes and again Moore&Wright.


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## Harry. (Mar 6, 2020)

ok thanks guys, I'll look into micrometers rather than calipers. I've read that you are supposed to wipe micrometers with a cloth before you put it away to remove the oil, water and dust? Is this true and if so, are there any that are more resilient?


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## awake (Mar 6, 2020)

Well, come to think of it, that would probably be a good idea! But I have to confess that I don't do it. I do wipe them when they seem dirty, and definitely wipe and blow off the contact faces if there is any hint of contamination that will throw off the reading.

It will be interesting to see what others do - it may well be that I am a Neanderthal in this respect! One possibly relevant factor is that I don't use coolant, so my micrometers are not exposed to anything water-based ...


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## goldstar31 (Mar 6, 2020)

Harry. said:


> ok thanks guys, I'll look into micrometers rather than calipers. I've read that you are supposed to wipe micrometers with a cloth before you put it away to remove the oil, water and dust? Is this true and if so, are there any that are more resilient?



I think that you mean (rust)'resistant'
Callipers and things want care especially if they are not going to be used for some time. I use something called ARP, no, not Air Raid Precautions but Anti rust protection. I bought 5 litres from an oil supplier a couple of light years ago.  As for mikes, well my cheap-ish ones are stainless but dial gauges are treated with light spindle oil which I use on the bearings of my Quorn, my Stent and my Kennet tool and cutter 'cartridge' bearings.
Really, it is only a matter of good Housekeeping. 

Oh, don't use sewing machine oil which tends to esterify!


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## bluejets (Mar 6, 2020)

Harry. said:


> ok thanks guys, I'll look into micrometers rather than calipers. I've read that you are supposed to wipe micrometers with a cloth before you put it away to remove the oil, water and dust? Is this true and if so, are there any that are more resilient?



Why would one need to remove any oil...?

Dry off any cooling water  and oil up obviously but dust..??

Maybe my workshop operates differently to yours.

All my measuring gear goes in a separate drawer away from any tooling etc.


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## goldstar31 (Mar 7, 2020)

Harry

I've been trying to think.
Are you actually raising questions on what might be called "ornamental turning?"
I'm going back over the years to holding things in 'catspaw chucks- and resin chucks.
I can recall Holzapffel and Tom Walshaw( Tubal Cain) in this. Oddly we , that is a couple or three of us  were talking about Bagpipe making and me, still having a George Potts device for drilling, milling and a host of other things  from the lathe saddle.
Purely a guess on my part, folks!


Norman


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## stackerjack (Mar 7, 2020)

Harry,
That applies to all tools really. It all depends on how much time and care you want to devote to the hobby.


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## clockworkcheval (Mar 8, 2020)

Micrometer readings are indeed almost always preferable to caliper readings for me. However, bitten by bitter experience, I now always first take a caliper reading to decide for instance whether the micrometer reads 20,22 mm or 20,72 mm.


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## ALEX1952 (Mar 8, 2020)

A previous post said they did not have to worry about rust as they don't use water based coolant, airborne moisture will create rust as will acid in sweat that I know as rusty fingers, one guy I served my time with could actually leave a very good finger print just by touching a surface and leaving overnight. It was so bad that he had to clean every thing he touched at the end of the day especially cast iron, surface plates machine ways etc.


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## clockworkcheval (Mar 8, 2020)

It is my understanding that in the 1960's potential apprentices for the Dutch Instrumentmakers School in Leiden had first to hold a small blank steel testplate. If after a week the testplate did not show a fingerprint the apprentice was deemed free of rusty fingers and fit for the school.


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## Harry. (Mar 10, 2020)

stackerjack said:


> Harry,
> That applies to all tools really. It all depends on how much time and care you want to devote to the hobby.


Yes I just wondered if there was a version that could handle more neglect and if I should be looking for a certain brand or material that is more robust/durable so that it lasts longer.


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## ALEX1952 (Mar 11, 2020)

I'm going to lecture you now, I think you should consider that it is delicate precision instrument and as such should not be neglected, even a low quality instrument should give long service if looked after. Or is this a result of the disposable society we now suffer with? As for cleaning we were taught to lightly pinch paper in between the anvils and pull out that's it apart from a light rub down.


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## Larry G. (Mar 12, 2020)

clockworkcheval said:


> It is my understanding that in the 1960's potential apprentices for the Dutch Instrumentmakers School in Leiden had first to hold a small blank steel testplate. If after a week the testplate did not show a fingerprint the apprentice was deemed free of rusty fingers and fit for the school.



When Kodak of Rochester, NY, USA was manufacturing cameras using very thin sheet steel for shutter and aperture assemblies, workers were tested for rust-promoting finger prints before being allowed on that production line.  This was also about 50 years ago.  
But times change...
Silicones are now the boogeyman in automotive paint lines.  Cosmetics, hair products, and "rubber" jewelry often contain silicones which can cause orange peel defects.


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