# Coles Hit & Miss REDUX



## cobra428 (Apr 16, 2009)

Well I hope these Pics are better than my last post
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That's all folks!
I've got to get back to the shop
I what to see this run like a champ!!!


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## bearcar1 (Apr 16, 2009)

;D ;D Bravo! Nicely done! Terrific photos of a great looking model. I pulled them down into file and will study up on them, maybe I can get re-motivated and start work on the ones I have. Thanks Tony.

BC1


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## cobra428 (Apr 16, 2009)

BC1
Glade to have been a little inspiration. I will probable do the rocker arm over. It is to spec but you can see it's not quite hitting the valve squarely. These are the "tweeks" that make the hobby fun!
Tony


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## cobra428 (Apr 16, 2009)

Forgot to tell you look at hit and miss balance thread. This helped a lot with the engine's running!
Tony


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## cfellows (Apr 17, 2009)

For balancing my engine, I added 1/2" x 1/8" thick neodymium magnets inside the outer rim, opposite the connecting rod throw. I added a couple on each flywheel, started it up to try it, added a couple more, etc., until I got it in good balance (Oh yeah, stop the engine before adding more magnets :big. I just left the magnets there since they stick really well. However, you could remove the magnets, weigh them, and cut a steel piece of the same weight and hold it to the flywheel with screws.

Chuck


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## rudydubya (Apr 17, 2009)

Nice work tony. And the pictures too, I like the closeups. I can't get that close with my camera.

Rudy


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## cobra428 (Apr 17, 2009)

Thanks for the Ada boy guys. And that's a good idea with the magnets. I was using car wheel balancing weights and for added safety tywraping them too.
Rudy I'm using a Canon A560. I just looked on amazon and it goes for $250 but I don't remember paying that much. I bought a couple of years ago and I'm to cheap to pay that much!!

I didn't know it could get that close either. I'm shocked. And maybe now, I don't want it to get that close when I show my work :big:
Tony


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## Maryak (Apr 17, 2009)

cobra428,

Very Nice :bow:

On my Canon, if you hold the shutter button half way down it will tell you if you are in focus or not, (Green rectangle yes, Yellow rectangle no.), if not in focus change to the tulip icon for close ups.

Hope I'm not teaching you to suck eggs  ??? ??? and a Canon is a very good choice of camera. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428 (Apr 17, 2009)

DUUUUDDDDE, thank you. :bow: There were no instructions when I bought the camera......well I never found them.....well maybe.... I should have read them. Guilty as charged Rof}
Thanks Man
Tony


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## Jeff02 (Apr 18, 2009)

COBRA, Nice looking engine but I cant seem to find it on the Coles web site, do you know if it is still available?

Thnaks!


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## bearcar1 (Apr 18, 2009)

Say Jeff', Cole's still lists that engine on page two (item 12) of their pricing sheets. :Sm Hit & Miss cstgs & dwgs $154. I would suggest that you give them a call and actually verify if they have all of the castings available in stock, lest you pay your money and wait forever to have the order filled. Those are the coolest looking models of no particular brand name that I have seen. Good luck.

BC1


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## cobra428 (Apr 21, 2009)

Hi Jeff,
The pic they show for the small h/m is not the right one??? But BC1 is right!
Tony


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## cobra428 (May 21, 2009)

Hi Guys,
This is what I been working at. The check valve on the fuel is very important. I was getting erratic runs without it. Don't know why I wanted to get around not using it. I guess I saw other engines run without it and said th_wtf1. But in this case when it would go into the Miss mode I could see the fuel back down the line and it wouldn't hit again. Still needs some spring adjustment to make the miss last a little longer but I'm on the right track now. Some pics of the check valve, video of the run. Hope you enjoy ;D

Check valve parts. About an hour to make want the heck was my problem :shrug:






Check valve assembled, soft soldered, needs a file and a bead blast






And now for the grand finally





I love the smell of Coleman exhaust fumes in the evening........Smells like......VICTORY Rof}

Almost time for the bling thing
Tony

PS Bearcar1 are you going to dust off those casting now stickpoke


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## Maryak (May 21, 2009)

Tony,

Fantastic job and such a smooth runner. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## GailInNM (May 21, 2009)

Thats a great engine Tony. Looks good and runs well.  :bow: :bow:
Gail in NM,USA


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## cobra428 (May 21, 2009)

Thanks Bob and Gail, :bow:
Now the really hard part comes....Paint, Pin striping and polish. I have to get it to hand start. I'm using my model airplane starter and it kicks over the second I touch the flywheel, but won't go by hand. I can feel a kick but no go yet. I think it needs a little more run time to break in!
Tony


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## bearcar1 (May 21, 2009)

Aw Tony, you are killing me here! You must have read my mind, 8) I did in fact pull out my casting sets of that engine and play "putt-putt" :big: in what is left of my mind. scratch.gif After a couple of hours, I woke up  and realized that I have yet to complete my engine in progress and packed all of the pretty pieces back up th_rulze It was a good thing I did do some inspection, I found just a trace of surface rust th_bs beginning and resolved that by a WD40 treatment and some Ziplock bags. Rest assured that I will be picking your brain (be thankful it's not your nose, I have large fingers) when the time comes, Those are really cool little engines and lend themselves to any number of paint schemes. You have done some nice work th_wav, thank you for sharing it with us.


BC1


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## cobra428 (May 21, 2009)

Thanks Bearcar1 :bow:
Still more fun to go! Take it apart again (for the 1000 time) and clean paint (red with white and black pins) and polish. No problem on the brain picking, but if you have big fingers how are you going to get them in my ear scratch.gif Rof}
Tony


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## rake60 (May 21, 2009)

Beautiful build Tony! :bow:

Rick


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## cobra428 (May 21, 2009)

Thanks Rick, :bow:
90% done.... 90% still to go yet :big: I'm messing with the springs (for the miss part) as we post. I'm dieing to get that 3 sec. off.... 1 sec on thing that I love so much about H&M's.
Tony


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## Bill Mc (May 26, 2009)

Hi cobra428

Nice Engine, Nice Photos. I notice that even when I am using my camera in MACRO mode you can still get a tad too close and the camera will not focus in on the subject properly. Keep up the nice work and in progress photos. They help so many others. - Bill Mc Kinley


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## cobra428 (Jun 2, 2009)

Well, after messing with those mechanical contactors (points) for the ign. for 2 weeks to get the timing reliable :wall:. I THREW IN THE TOWEL. There was to much "bounce" and the timing would drift and double fire prematurely. I had to constantly clean and futs with them. So I went to see Mr. Hall. His "affect" was fantastic ;D. Engine starts and runs sooooo much better now. I even started to experiment with BTDC timing and it works :big: But I will return to TDC or ATDC timing (runs a bit cooler that way). And maybe try some HI TEST with 100/1 Amsoil like I use in my RC airplane engines. I wanted to keep the engine "traditional" but...... I rather it runs good . I took out the contactor mechs and just epoxied the hall in place. Milled a place for the Neo magnet in the existing cam and epoxied that too. Why "O" Why didn't I do this from the beginning :wall: :wall: :wall:

Before






After





Bling on the way soon
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jun 4, 2009)

Well I'm working on hiding the gas tank and ignition in the frame/base. I change out the MJN coil for the S/S machine coil (a lot smaller). Made up the wooded skids for the base. I want to display and run the model just like that. 

Model Airplane gas tank with oil cup added to ease in filling from the top. The plans call for C/L tank, there available but this one seemed to work out pretty good and I can see the fuel level!






Trying to figure out a gunk guard for the ign module. scratch.gif That's a old RC receiver case for my planes






On the wooded skids






Tank in spot. Looking for some kind of support











Look at this. If I turn the Cyl around and add some front wheels I'll have a Hit & Miss tractor Rof}






I'm getting a little better with the camera?
Tony


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## Maryak (Jun 5, 2009)

Tony, the more you do the more envious I become, looking really great. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428 (Jun 10, 2009)

Bob,
 Don't be envious of me. I'm envious of you. You take scrap and turn it to gold. I take gold and turn it to s.....
You have the Midas touch Thm:.

Now a little update. Since I changed to the Hall, things are more reliable and the starts are so much easier.
So, being an ex-pilot I had to "push the envelope".

Results:
Coleman fuel with a dash of WD-40 ka ka (runs but....)
87 oct we're getting better
93 oct with 100/1 Amsoil mix (my 2 cycle giant model airplane fuel 85 and 100cc engines (mfg recommended)) woohoo1
Eng runs cooler, smoother and the hit and miss is getting better and better. I can now be happy when I go to the shop. The engine starts every try with no "playing around" first. I moved the ign timing up to 1~2deg BTDC
and it's a happy camper. So this was a small mile stone to the finish and some exhilaration on the way! God I luv this hobby!!

Tony


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## Jeff02 (Jun 10, 2009)

Tony, where did you get your ignition system?
BTW your engine looks GREAT!
Thanks, Jeff


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## cobra428 (Jun 10, 2009)

Hey Jeff02,
The ignish comes from

http://www.cncengines.com/index.html

He does model airplane stuff and ME IC stuff. Roy is a great guy to deal with. Honest, Knowledgeable and Sincere about the hobby. I have been emailing him back and forth with my troubles. He answers my emails in a couple of hours every time. I had my first Hall go bad after an hours worth of run, emailed him and a new (free) sensor was on it's way with a explanation of the proper mounting and mfg recommendations. Listen I don't work for him but all I can say he's been a really good guy to put up with me!
Tony

PS thanks on the engine, soon I'll begin the bling! Just want to make sure all is working happy and reliable first!


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## Maryak (Jun 11, 2009)

Tony,

Thanks for the kind words. :bow:

Glad your ignition system is sorted. How many deg BTDC is it set at now and what is Coleman fuel. ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428 (Jun 11, 2009)

Bob,
 Timing is at 1~2 deg BTDC. It seems to give me the most reliable runs. Coleman fuel is White Gas used in camping stoves. It's about 50 octane.
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jun 16, 2009)

First, thank you Bob and Gail,
Now, it's all apart again :shrug: First I had to change the parts washer fluid (a year of oily parts). Then while I was at it I change the drain plug over to a valve so I could control the drainage rather that scoop out the fluid with a large Chinese soup container a little at a time. After that I started to "soak" the parts then after drying a bead blast.

Good old Rustolium Paint from a spray can. If I clean on more gun in my life I'll go nuts. Two Minutes of spraying three hours of clean up! The best thing I bought for painting was the 16" lazy Susan from IKEA $9. I can spin the part around and not touch it!

























Of course the paint is still wet, hence the wet gloss look :big:
Now while the paint dries and I wait to flip things over to do the other side I can do some cutting for the next build
Tony


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 16, 2009)

And I thought it already looked good.

When you get to it...be sure and tell how you removed what paint you didn't want. I want to learn.

The pic showing the engine on the wooden skids...what are those things on the flywheel? (The things forming a square on the hub.)

Thanks,


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## cobra428 (Jun 16, 2009)

Zee,
That's the Governor. The weights fly open with the increase in rpm. The springs on the weights regulate what rpm the gizzmo holds the exhaust valve open, the engine free wheels till it slows enough for those weight to come back in then that releases the exhaust valve push rod again....the engine fires and the whole thing starts over.

Watch the little arm catch the exhaust valve push rod





I will show how to make the un-wanted paint go away!

Tony

PS gland your not going anywhere :big:


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 17, 2009)

Cool. I've seen several references/examples to 'hit n miss' engines and wondered how they worked.
Thanks. (And thanks for your support.)


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## cobra428 (Jun 17, 2009)

A little more paint before I go to work this morning

Side two






Clean Parts






Head and Crank blocks dry and unmasked






Got to go and make some money now :big:
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jun 18, 2009)

Hey Zee,
Still waiting on the paint to dry. When I go to the shop I can smell the paint still (after 3 days) gassing out. The weather here in the NE USA has been terrible. If any body is a duffer, I live about 5 mi. south of Bethpage (the US Open). If you been watching TV you will know about the rain here. It's been raining for the past 2 weeks and the forcast is for another 2 weeks of it. The open will take about 2 weeks to finish! Humidity is not paints friend.
Zee, I use painters tape from the depot, put it over the machined surface then trim with an X-Acto knife. As for the Flywheels, I won't keep you in suspense anymore......When the paint is hard enough I just put it in the lathe and cut and sand it off. Then polish the bare metal. That's the secret!











Tony


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 18, 2009)

I know what you mean...rain rain rain. It's past mid-June and I don't think it's gotten over 80 degrees (Fahrenheit obviously. That or I'm in the wrong place. Read into that as you will.)

Painter's tape? Why does it look like a foil? It's not the blue stuff.

Ahhhh. Sand and polish. That subject just keeps coming up for some reason.

Thanks Tony.


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## cobra428 (Jun 18, 2009)

Yup Zee, the blue stuff, you could use green too. If you want to bling sand and polish and polish and ......
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jun 18, 2009)

Hey again Zee,
Forgot to mention. I use Cotton Balls to fill the inside machined surfaces. I stuff them in there a drop of alcohol will tame the fibers. Or you could roll a piece of paper up and let it "unwind" in the hole.






Shown being removed. Pushed down flush or below surface when in paint mode
Tony


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 18, 2009)

Neat! Thanks Tony.


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## cobra428 (Jun 23, 2009)

Well, got a little bling done on the H/M. Cleaned the paint from the flywheels and polished and polished

Before and after





Starting to look like something




Think I'm going to cut that funel down a bit





That's it for tonight.....fingers are killing me :big:

Tony


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## Maryak (Jun 24, 2009)

Tony,

Fantastic. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428 (Jun 24, 2009)

Thanks Bob,

Does anybody have any pinstriping tricks? Flywheel is pretty easy, I just put a fine paint pen in the tool post of the lathe and chuck the FW touch the pen to the FW, hand turn the chuck....perfect! I'll even think about decals if I could find them that small. Or I'm thinking of just pinstriping the FW and that's it. On my avatar engine I painted the pinstripe color first then used chart pack tape to mask and then the green finish color. Pain in the butt method!

Tony


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## RobWilson (Jun 24, 2009)

Hi Tony
Great looking engine ,like the color, i think you can get pens to do lining of differant widths
Regards Rob


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## deverett (Jun 24, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Does anybody have any pinstriping tricks? Flywheel is pretty easy, I just put a fine paint pen in the tool post of the lathe and chuck the FW touch the pen to the FW, hand turn the chuck....perfect! I'll even think about decals if I could find them that small. Or I'm thinking of just pinstriping the FW and that's it. On my avatar engine I painted the pinstripe color first then used chart pack tape to mask and then the green finish color. Pain in the butt method!
> 
> Tony



You can buy a Beugler pinstriping tool if you have Very deep pockets. Or you can get a cheapo version called the Master Pinstriper. Comes with a greater variety of wheels than the Beugler, but is plastic and not bright and shiny. A quick Google search and I cannot see it. When I get home in a couple of weeks I will get the information off the packet if you still need it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle, but presently in Saudi Arabia


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## cobra428 (Jun 24, 2009)

Steamdave thanks,
I did buy a beugler many years ago. Works great if you are doing a car with 1/4" stripes. 1/64 wheel makes a 3/64 stripe (not so bad). The difficulty comes when you want to meet up with lines at 90 deg or so. Hard to see when the stripe will begin or end. On the FW's a heavy stripe don't look so bad but on the frame and cyl it's too big (need a true 1/64 or 1/32). I'm a thinks it's my other method of putting down a stripe then masking it with chart-pak tape then a coat of the main color to trim down the line. Lots of dry time and X-Acto knife work.
I guess I'll be getting more work done on my other WIP the Whittle V8 whilst I wait on the paint to dry
Tony


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## bearcar1 (Jun 24, 2009)

Hiya Ton, I know that the purists will have me drawn and quartered for suggesting this, but would using automotive pinstriping tape suit your purposes? Apply the desired design and burnish well, Allow the adhesive to setup/cure for a couple of days and then shoot a clear coat/sealer over the whole thing. Or find some pre-printed decals and apply them before a clear coat application. If you do decide to utilize the tape, take it very easy on the corner radii as if they are made too abrupt they will have tendency to lift or curl from being over tensioned. Other than that or having a professional sign painter/striper do the work it seems that a lot of X-acto knife and adhesive sheeting is in your future.

BC1
Jim


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## cobra428 (Jun 24, 2009)

Hey BC1,
Yeh I've used the "sticky" stripping tape on my planes in the past. I don't know if they go down to the thickness I'm looking for. No more painted engines after this one :big:. Polished Alum and black oxide or gun blue from now on for me th_bs. I'll get to work on the other engine (not painted) while I wait for the paint to dry! It's just a pain to be doing 2 projects at once. I have the tools out for the H/M and the tools out on the bench for the V8. Every tool I own will be out on the bench soon. Rof} It's not funny, just a mess.
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jun 24, 2009)

Well a little more work done tonight and I do mean a little. Broke out the Beugler pin stripping giz and here we go. The equipment hipo to load "gun"







Gun mounted to tool post with rubber bands





Going in for the kill





The kill





Looking good





Started the Hardware thing...Studs and Nuts





Now the thing I look forward to the most (10 min. of paint 2 hrs. of cleaning :rant




Thank God for Wonton soup Rof}

Tomorrow the Black Stripe
Tony


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## Seanol (Jun 25, 2009)

Tony,
That came out great! I never thought of using the lathe!

If you can find the designs you want you can reduce them and print on special paper. Soak the paper and the image stays. They you apply to the model and you have your decal. I want to say photo style paper but I will look it up and let you know.

Sean


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## cobra428 (Jun 25, 2009)

Hi Seanol,
I know the stuff you are talking about. Micro-Mark sells it. It's decal paper. You can print on it with a color printer and then water transfer it, like plastic model stuff. Good idea :bow:
Tony


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## deverett (Jun 25, 2009)

Tony

So the Beugler came in from the cold, eh? Looks like it did a darn fine job to me.

I will have to get out my plastic imitation and see if it will do the same.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## cobra428 (Jun 25, 2009)

Thanks steamdave,
It's a good tool, the operater is the problem. I do some really nice practice work on carboard. When I pick up an engine piece......the knees start to knock and the palms get all sweaty :big:
Tony


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## Maryak (Jun 25, 2009)

Tony,

That's a wonderous paint job. :bow: As one, who as a painter, I would make a good butcher. I can only admire your work. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428 (Jun 25, 2009)

Thanks Bob,
I had many years of butchering paint jobs on model airplanes before I learned. Stay tuned, the black stripe will go on tonight. Then the stripes on the cyl sides (I will have to have a couple of Bourbons before to calm the nerves) :big:
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jun 25, 2009)

Well, a very disappointing night. Put the black stripe on the flywheel and it looked like dodo. Wish I could of taken a pic but the camera was upstairs and I was in the basement and wanted to erase (with the retarders) the ugly mess I made before it had time to set up. The stripping with the black and white looked good but not for that era of an engine. Then I attempted the cyl stripping :wall: tried once and ugh cleaned it with the retarders again, tried again ugh.....cleaned and tried...... Cylinder started to turn pink :wall: :idea: maybe I should sand the paint then stripe this way "maybe" the tool won't skip and I won't have to go over it and start to form blobs on the stripe. Well I sanded the cyl and repainted it red. Drying now
 Sorry for my ramblings just want to get the bling over, run it again and put it on the bookshelf, go back to what I really like.....making chips. Time for the tried and true method "masking tape". Then to hope for not having a paint incompatibility issue! God forbid!
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 6, 2009)

Well, more studs made tonight. I gave up on the cyl pinstripe thing. I masked with an automotive "clean line" tape. After removing the tape I had paint bleeding under the overlap spots even though I worked the tape down into the seams. Oh Well!!










Not showing the bleeding, I wanted to get the paint off quick, no time for a camera!

All studded and nutted up!




Almost time for the Permitex and Loctite

Tony


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## Jeff02 (Jul 6, 2009)

Man you guys are making me wont to start mine.

Looks Great!


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## bearcar1 (Jul 6, 2009)

Looking good so far Ton', What about that clear sheet mask that Micro Mark sell. You know the stuff that you can supposedly use on compound surfaces etc. They show it being applied putting down a camoflage scheme on a plane wing. Have you tried any of that?


BC1
Jim


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## cobra428 (Jul 7, 2009)

BC1,
Your right, I didn't think of that. I think it can be gotten in an art store too, Frisket paper it called. And the funny thing, I might have some from the Model Airplane days.

Jeff02,
So start it!! 

Tony


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## scoop (Jul 7, 2009)

after applying the masking tape give the area a thin coat of clear lacquer(make sure it is compatable with the paint you will be using for the final colour).Thia lacquer will seal the tiny gaps that cause the bleeding and if any clear lacquer does seep under the tape it will not show.After removing the tape use a couple of extra coats of clear to seal it all up.

 best regards  Steve c.


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## cobra428 (Jul 7, 2009)

Thanks Scoop
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 7, 2009)

Been a bizzy boy tonight. I pick up some frisket paper from the art store today (pinstripe masking). But I had a better idea on my drive home from work :idea: I use to use a drafting ink pen on my model airplanes to simulate panel lines.
It worked great. Not so pronounced in this pic (look at left wing). I have the pens from my younger engineering days. So I will go to the art store tomorrow to see if I can get some white ink and give it a whirl.





Tonight I had another brilliant idea Rof} I said to myself.....self....how did they empty the water out of the engine ??? they needed a drain. So to add more junk on to the engine, I decided to put in a drain and valve. I thought I was going to need a couple of 90's so I made them only to find out it was just better to go straight down. The valve was an old left over from my "steam era days" and could go to use. The valve and fittings are PMR stuff 3/16".
So here comes the pic's


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## Maryak (Jul 7, 2009)

Tony,

Nice drain system. :bow: I have been pondering the very same thing but I may have to make a boss to accept the valve.

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428 (Jul 7, 2009)

Hey Bob,
Thats right you have a sheet metal outer jacket. A little brass boss soldered in will do the trick for you!!!
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 8, 2009)

The finger tips are burnt to the bone and still more buffing to go. I tried the local art/drafting store for a Rapidograph pen and white ink (another pinstripe attempt). NG, went on line and found them, 7-9 days till delivery. So, I decided to start to buff out the brass and bronze parts.






Just used the ebony and some Brasso afterward to clean them up. Thinking about a clear Lacquer over them now.
What to clean them with ??? and still have the shine and have the paint stick scratch.gif Will Prepsol work ??? I'll give it a shot, unless anybody has a better method.
Tony


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## bearcar1 (Jul 8, 2009)

Heya bony fingers :big: You might wish to use Brakleen. It comes in an aerosol can at the auto parts store and is a fantastic solvent. Just don't use it on your fresh paint as it will strip it in a hurry. 

BC1
Jim


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## cobra428 (Jul 9, 2009)

Thanks Jim  Thm:
I'll look into it. It's funny, I bought this engine as my first IC project. Just to learn how to make an IC engine. It was supposed to be my first IC learning experience. Man I'm learning.......I'm learning that I can't leave an engine well enough alone. Rof}
Tony

PS take note on the gov weights. Don't put the holes where they tell you. Springs will interference with the FW hub. I redone them and put escutcheon pins in the ends to clear the hub


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## steamer (Jul 9, 2009)

Lacquer makes a good cover for brass, but I don't think it will hold up to gasoline.

Dave


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## cobra428 (Jul 9, 2009)

Steamer, you are absolutely correct, gas will attack the lacquer. Hopefully these parts will never see raw gas. I will not do the carb or the check valve. Thanks for the concern
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 9, 2009)

It's been a fun night. I've been playing with chemicals all night. So here goes a picture story of what I did....... 

Black Oxide Chem





After a few minute dip





Clean up





Time for a bath






Let's pickle awhile





Had some of this from the model airplane days..degreaser and prep





Pickling some more before clear lacquer





Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 16, 2009)

I think I'm on to something  I finally got the white ink today and began the experiment. I sanded the lazy susan that I paint on and has the paint of the engine on it. I then sanded with 400 wet to "break the gloss". Used a pencil to give me guide lines. Then I broke out the old drafting equip. Erased the pencil lines and coated with clear. Looks better in person (dam camera picks up to much)































Think I have to just slow down my motion a tad to get a fuller line

Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 22, 2009)

Well guys I'm giving up on the cyl pinstripe ......for now! Tired of painting and polishing and painting.....So I decided to put it together for now......go to work on the Whittle V8 (haunting me) and come back another day. Still a few more parts to put on but it's getting there!




















Till tomorrow......fuel tank.... ign and make it run again........book shelf.......V8

Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 23, 2009)

I couldn't leave well enough alone.......again. After crying on your shoulders.....Oh, I tired and can't do that anymore.....I gave it another shot. The engine needed it.....to me it didn't look right without it......So











I masked and then "dry sprayed" the white, left on the outer mask and used the One Shot paint and 00 pinstripe brush to put the tick marks in the corners. Not perfect but I'll feel better when I put her on the shelf.
Persistence.....the only other way is with computer generated decals (which could be in the future). I want to move on to the V8 :big: 
Machines have been silent for to long now!!

Tony


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## bearcar1 (Jul 23, 2009)

And here I was thinking about busting your chops for quitting before the project was done. Looks good, I salute you sir :bow: :big:

BC1
Jim


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## cobra428 (Jul 23, 2009)

Jim, sometimes I need a little of the busting :bow: and a kick in the paints Not exactly what I want (I bust my own chops to much) But I'm thinking it looks all right!
Tony


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## Maryak (Jul 24, 2009)

Tony,

That's bloody marvellous. :bow: :bow:

You wouldn't like to paint mine when it's finished..................... ??? ??? : : :

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428 (Jul 24, 2009)

Bob,
For you......No Problem Buddy.....it would be an honor :bow:
Tony


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## Maryak (Jul 24, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Bob,
> For you......No Problem Buddy.....it would be an honor :bow:
> Tony



Thanks mate, I appreciate your kind words.

Best Regards
Bob


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## bearcar1 (Jul 24, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> .......... But I'm thinking it looks all right!
> Tony



It looks GREAT! Now you can begin/resume your V-8. "Mother may I? Yes you may" :big:


BC1
Jim


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## cobra428 (Jul 24, 2009)

Thanks Guys, Tonight I will do the other side (paint takes 24h to dry)
Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 29, 2009)

Hi Guys,
Well I did the other side with pinstripe. No sense boring you with that pic......looks just like the other side.

But I do have a question. I've seen on some engines (don't remember who's) a placard. Looks like black backround with brass border and lettering. Similar to what the full size mfg would have put on their engine with serial #, Date of mfg, logo.......
Is this another trophy place type item? Or?
Tony

http://hamiltonupshur.tripod.com


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## GailInNM (Jul 29, 2009)

Tony,
Your local trophy/engraving shop can do what you want. 

They will stock lacquer coated brass. The black can be either gloss or matte and the brass can be either polished or matte. Gloss black on polished brass is the most common. 0.025 thick brass is the norm.

The brass has two coats of lacquer on it. First it is coated with clear and then with the color coat. A laser is used to burn away the color, leaving the clear to protect the brass so it does not tarnish.

The commercial shops can normally work with any Windows file as the laser is treated as just a Windows printer, but the color choice is used to control the speed and power of the laser. Best to keep any artwork as a pure color, ie black, green, yellow etc. Leave the background white and that will be black on the finished plate. Check with your shop as to what they prefer. You can save a little bit if you do the finish profiling. Put the profile on the drawing so it will disappear when the part is to size. They may also have some standard sizes that they work with or have a die for.

If you have problems, let me know. I have an OLD laser and some of the stock on hand, but I can only work with limited file formats.

Gail in NM,USA


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## cobra428 (Jul 29, 2009)

Thanks GailinNM,
I do have a trophy place not far from me. Matter of fact he's on my way home from work. I will have to stop in and chat
Tony


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## CrewCab (Jul 29, 2009)

Tony 8) .......... top class engine 

CC


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## cobra428 (Jul 29, 2009)

Thanks CC,
There was a lot of great help and inspiration by many on this site. I'm finishing up on the polishing tonight (I think) and coming down the home stretch! Like I hear many times...... the last 5% takes 200% of your time :big:
Tony


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## bearcar1 (Jul 29, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> ...... the last 5% takes 200% of your time :big:



You got that right Ton', it ain't over till the ugly ones go home.

BC1
Jim


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## cobra428 (Jul 30, 2009)

Well I just got great news. I called the trophy place and explained what I wanted. No problem the man said. I said how much? $5 bucks he said...come in tomorrow the engraver is not here today.
I will be there tomorrow....drawing only, no computer file.

 ;D Tony


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## cobra428 (Jul 30, 2009)

OK, now for more serious stuff......Head gasket material? I was using just high temp silicon. But what should I really be using ??? ??? ??? Stay with the silicon (it worked)......thin copper......thin alum......Teflon...paper soaked with oil ??? ??? ???
Tony


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## GailInNM (Jul 31, 2009)

Good deal on the nameplate Tony. I forgot that the engravers today can just scan in artwork and feed it directly to the laser with very little cleanup. I think that I can do that with my laser, but have never tried it. I mostly use it for cutting using vector files. Acrylic, gasket material and that sort of thing.

On gaskets, I have never had a lot of luck using oil soaked paper. It is too hard and does not compress enough. Mostly I use vegtable based gasket material, either 0.006 or 0.015 thick. It works well on low compression engines, but not so well on high compression glow engines. On them I use 0.005 ( 36 gauge ) copper sheet. I got mine from the local craft store in their copper tooling section. I make up a simple one time use punch/die that I use in the drill press for the small holes, and then some times profile the complex or internal sections using the same punch/die to nibble. You have to anneal it before use and then every time that you disassemble and reassemble the engine, but is permanent. 

Your engine looks great. Congratulations on the build. 

Gail in NM,USA


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## cobra428 (Jul 31, 2009)

Thanks GailinNM,
I made a cad drawing of the placard and cut it out and placed on the engine last night for sizing. Look right but the text looks to small. I am going to scale it up a bit to see if that helps. At 1x.6 it's the right size, any larger I think it will look more like a "Billboard" rather that a placard!
I'm going to the trophy place during lunch today to see what they have to say! I don't mind the small text but can they cut it and make it legable?
Tony


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## vlmarshall (Jul 31, 2009)

If your local trophy shop can't do it let me know.


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## cobra428 (Jul 31, 2009)

Thanks Vernon,
I droped off my drawing and a pic of Upshore's and they said no problem $5 and a couple of days.
Tony


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## cobra428 (Aug 20, 2009)

OK,
Only my luck. When I was away on my biz trip, I got a voice mail that my placard was done at the trophy shop. When I called them....they are on vacation this week :rant:. Well it can wait, engine runs again bling done (except for placard) almost ready for the book shelf.
So here are some pics of the finally (one more to come with the placard)


























Rustolium Paint
CNC Machine Ign (S/S)
Timing 5 deg BTDC
93 Oct fuel (no oil mix)

Back to the Whittle V8

Tony

PS thanks for putting up with my rants and raves


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## bearcar1 (Aug 20, 2009)

:redface2: you Tony, you're making me want to get my casting sets out and work on them. That sure looks great man. 

BC1
Jim


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## Jeff02 (Aug 20, 2009)

Looks Great Tony!

I'm going to start mine as soon as I get a bigger Lathe

Thanks for posting , it will come in handy!


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## cobra428 (Aug 20, 2009)

Jim, Jeff.....Thanks Guys!
Tony


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## zeeprogrammer (Aug 20, 2009)

Very nice Tony.
Can't say I'm overjoyed though. You've added to the reasons why I should try this someday. So many projects...so many ideas...
Thanks...I mean...thanks for sharing.


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## cobra428 (Aug 20, 2009)

Zee,
That's what this place is all about.....sharing
And Thanks!
Tony


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## vlmarshall (Aug 20, 2009)

Ah, that's awesome... man that thing runs fast. Very nice. :bow:


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## cobra428 (Aug 20, 2009)

Thanks Vernon.
I'm trying to slow it down as I post. Riching her up ain't doing it, next I'm trying to cut down the advance on the timing :shrug: :noidea:
Tony


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## arnoldb (Aug 21, 2009)

Lovely engine Tony Thm:

And darn, builds like yours are starting to make me itch to build an IC engine!

Regards, Arnold


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## chuck foster (Aug 21, 2009)

very nice looking engine tony :bow:

if you want to slow the engine down you will have to use weaker springs on the governor weights.

hope this helps.

            chuck


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## cobra428 (Aug 21, 2009)

arnoldb, aermotor8, Thanks Guys :bow:
Tony


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## cobra428 (Aug 25, 2009)

Well this is it for this engine......I'm done. Picked up the placard this afternoon and just got it mounted. I have to take the girlfriend out to dinner. She got wind of the next engine. "How many engines do you need" She said. 
I stopped short of "how many shoes do you need". Rof} :hDe: 

Never ever clean up the shop, as long as it's dirty and full of tools laying around.... your still working on something. Maybe I'll get down the shop latter *club*












A & R Engine Co.
Serial No. 001
Mfg Date Aug 09
Made in the USA


Tony


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## slick95 (Aug 25, 2009)

Tony,

Absolutely beautiful engine :bow:

Thanks for sharing the pictures and video...

Jeff


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## cobra428 (Aug 25, 2009)

Thanks Slick,
What is that in your Avatar? I know A/C pretty good (pro pilot 10 years cfi cfii....ATP) but can't make out what type plane that is
Tony

Oh and I like the quote


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## bearcar1 (Aug 25, 2009)

Oh Bravo!!! Well done Tony, a beautiful finishing touch for a great looking engine. 

BC1
Jim


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## cobra428 (Aug 25, 2009)

Hey Guys
How do I fix the aspec ratio on my Avatar? Last one was a vertical. This one is a little distorted
Tony

PS Fixed


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## cobra428 (Aug 25, 2009)

Thanks Jim,
It's all in the details. I saw Upshores engines a few other peoples with the placard and said "nice touch" $5.00 well spent
Tony


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## slick95 (Aug 25, 2009)

Tony,
The plane in my avatar is a US Army RC-12X (the latest recon plane). I've been flying in the army for 26 years and counting...too much fun.
Thanks for asking...
Jeff


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## cobra428 (Aug 25, 2009)

Slick,
AH-1G Cobra's was my ship in 1971. Know what you mean. Lots "O" fun
Tony


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## slick95 (Aug 25, 2009)

Cobra,

Cool aircraft the AH-1 is . I always wanted to fly them, but it was CH-47's. Good to meet a fellow army aviator and machinist...

Keep us updated on the H/M engine. BTW my first H/M is the Odds N' Ends by Phil Duclos which is close to finished...

Jeff


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## Bill Mc (Aug 27, 2009)

Hi Tony - If you had said that to your girlfriend you might still be in the EMERGENCY RECOVERY ROOM! - Billmc


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## cobra428 (Aug 27, 2009)

Bill Mc,
I did come up with a great idea. I'm going to keep a eye on the shoes she doesn't wear, then I'll put them on ebay and get castings money :big:
Tony


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## Bill Mc (Aug 27, 2009)

Hi Tony - I'll be looking for the pair of spiked heels with the blood on them. - Billmc


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## cobra428 (Aug 27, 2009)

Bill Mc Rof} Rof} Rof}


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