# 5"g Simplex steam loco build (hopefully)



## bazmak (Aug 29, 2017)

Looking for my next project,needs to be sustantial.I now have more tooling than i have ever had and there is not much more to make so need to start using it.I have decided to start on the 5"simplex loco even if it never gets finished.The main reasons are i have the drawings,castings etc are readily available and its much simpler than the HEILAN LASSIE i got 75% complete
The last loco was in the early 2000s,i had 2 Myford lathes,vertical slide and drill
press etc.So there was lots of sawing and filing.I was also working long hours
Now i have a mill,lathes etc,and DRO on the mill for accurate drilling/boring etc And a lot more time on my hands
Downside is that bright bar in flats and angles and imperial is not readily available so much of it will have to be metric HRS,Will be working a mix of metric/imperial to suit.Where possible i will use hs cap screws,hex hds will have 
to be purchased in BA . Will chart progress and compare the 2 builds from 2000
in UK to 2017 in Oz,Will start with the frames,stretchers and buffer beams so 
can build up something to look at.Any advice where to get castings and fixings etc here in Oz


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## JCSteam (Aug 29, 2017)

Can't help with where to buy castings. But I will be following this build. I like the 5" gauge locos, easy to transport (for standard gauge, narrow gauge is a bit more bulky), and enough clout to pull you around the tracks with a party of friends 

I also want to build a 5" steam loco but not just yet. Need some more experience first. If you lived over here I could shoot you straight to laser cut frames castings and other parts that'll get you going fairly quick.


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## stevef (Aug 29, 2017)

Hi

I just wondered if you know about the Simplex website. It lists errors and usefull info

www.nlsme.co.uk/simplex/index.htm

regards

Steve


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## bazmak (Aug 30, 2017)

Thanks Steve,i checked out the link and came across a thread on this forum
Made a pair of frames as per std,i must say its much easier with a mill
Cant wait to do some acurate drilling with the mill and DRO


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## JCSteam (Aug 30, 2017)

Lots of drilling ahead Baz, but I'm sure you already know that. I'm interested to see how it turns out. A coat of primer is too, so many models that I've seen, develop surface rust due to the time it takes to complete them.


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## bazmak (Aug 30, 2017)

A light coat of primer keeps it clean and aids marking out rather than blueing
Also a light coat on say angle cleats before they are rivited to the buffer/drag beams stopp rust on closed mating surfaces.Lots of drilling but all i had for HEILAN LASSIE was mark out and a cheap bench drill.With the mill and dro i should at least get a straight line and equal centres for the rivits


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## stevef (Aug 30, 2017)

There is also a book about building Simplex. "Simplex 0-6-0 Tank" "Simple Freelance Steam Locomotive" by Martin Evans published by Model & Allied Publications Argus Books Limited in 1977. ISBN 0 85242 796 4. We have a few in the club. There was also a Super Simplex. 

Some club members in the club dont buy casting or perhaps just buy the wheels and make the rest from solid or fabrications. Buy continuous cast iron lump and cut the cylinders from that

regards

Steve


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## bazmak (Sep 1, 2017)

A few more hours marking out and drilling the frames.Cleats,beams and stretchers made,ready to start assembly.3 days to get to this stage
my first one took a month.Boy do i hate too much hacksawing and filing
Its great to mill the stretchers knowing they are spot on square and to size


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## bazmak (Sep 3, 2017)

Made the frames,stretchers and beams and fully assembled
Had enough rivits from many years ago but only temp fixings
until i can collate a bolt list.Basically everything done thats on the first drawing
Then i made the mistake of studying the rest of the drgs. Frightening.
Starting to worry about the boiler,like a fool. Just concentrate on a bit at time
and dont worry about the rest.Its good to start with the easy bits and build up
I have orsered a copy of Martins book and wlii order some fixings, the wheels
and the axle boxes next.I am enjoying it even if it never gets finished
All i can sy is the mill and dro sure make things easier


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## pp2076 (Sep 3, 2017)

Check out Mr Crispin's channel. He 'can't afford' the castings, and is machining everything from solid.


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## JCSteam (Sep 3, 2017)

I wouldn't be looking too far ahead, why worry about it now when in about a week the boiler will be upon you lol. Your working fast I bet the machines are helping with that, well just a little any how. What you need to be thinking about is paint schemes, I'll stop rambling now and let you get on with the axle bearing blocks


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## bazmak (Sep 7, 2017)

All the work on the frames etc was milling and drilling so i decided to do
some turning.Chose to do the buffers,out of sequence but i had the matl
to hand and they can be made and fitted to add a bit of bling at this early
stage.The drg shows a 3/8" threaded spigot thru the beam with a large nut
holding it on.Apart from being out of scale and looking ugly its doing nothing
the 4 fixings from the front hold it on,so i turned a plain spigot shorter than shown and looks wise is much improved.Any body out there made this model
i wonder how many people just blindly follow the drawings?
I have ordered the book and the wheels.Now starting on the horns.2 versions are drawn.The castings in bronze cost $150 so will make the simple fabricated
ones for free.The axle boxes cost $150 so i bought a foot of 11/4" sq brass
Also got matl for axles etc.Next job is to make the axles,bearing and wheels etc
before i start on the connecting rods


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## bazmak (Sep 12, 2017)

I spent a few days fabricating the horn blocks.Easy stuff but an incorrect dim on the drg means i will have to make new top plates.No problem but i should have seen it..Made the axle boxes from brass.Axles were bright mild steel
about 1.5 thou under 3/4" but i dont have a reamer so i bored out to suit
in the lathe.Everything dropped together but the horns and axle boxes will
need fitting.Need a little slop of they bind up when running on curves etc
Did some more drilling and tapping to fully fit all screws and replace the temp
ones.Not bad for 2 weeks work but this is all the easy bits.Wheels are ordered


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## bazmak (Sep 15, 2017)

Before it starts to get too heavy i wanted to make a stand to hold stable and a better height.Lots of thoughts on timber etc going thru my head when just
before i fell asleep bingo.Local steel shop sell corner connectors so boght
some 1" sq rhs and  1 hr later.Very pleased.Milled 4 slots 10mm wide in the tube then fitted the plastic end caps before running a 6mm cutter thru
Corners of the 5mm buffers sit nice and snug on the plastic so no damage
if it ever gets to the finish painted stage.Finishe the horns,axle boxes etc
Now on the the pump eccentric and strap while i wait for the wheels to arrive


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## JCSteam (Sep 16, 2017)

A very handy stand 

Maybe worth thinking ahead, I've seen a stand very similar to yours that has a rotating feature, to allow access to the underside, the loco simply bolts to a plate via the buffers, with locating tabs that are welded to the plate, and turned to fit inside the buffers. This plate is then bolted to the frame with a catch pin (bolt) that secures the loco in any position you need, (once the holes are drilled).

Just make the stand 1" higher than the center line of the buffers to the top of the roof, then when your further down the build you won't have to keep flipping the loco. Just unbolt the plates and turn to whichever position is needed, rebolt job done, is great for maintenance when the loco is in service.

I do like the simple stand though. Effective at supporting the loco with very little outlay. Thumbs up!!


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## goldstar31 (Sep 16, 2017)

Full size BMC Minis were actually rotated to put the engines/gearboxes and subframes in.

I had a set of Car Rollers which were J's and bolted to the wheels of my Morris Minor. They were pretty tough and would hold a 3.5litre Jaguar.

Quite interesting being able to shove a car over unaided to weld and not having the oxy sparks  ending up in one's ears!

Regards

N


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## bazmak (Sep 16, 2017)

Good idea Norm will look at incorporating the spin feature in near future
when unit starts to get heavy.Its adequate for now.Talking about spinning the MIni, i did a thread very early on about duilding a 40ft steel hull boat.Also weldedpieces of 6'Dia tube on each end so the lower hull section could be
spun the right way up after fully welding the hull etc.Should have remembered


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## bazmak (Sep 22, 2017)

From bitter experience i will avoid doing all the shaping of the conrods first
only to find i have cocked up on the knuckle joint or wheel centres
This time i started with oversize bar,drilled and reamed for the driving axle
made and fitted the T & G knuckle joint,made and fitted 3 no stub axles
then using the the centre hole as a datum drilled and reamed for the leading
and trailing axles.The did a fitting directly to the stub axles.Only when i was
confident that all was correct did i start shaping the rods.Again i was very pleased how easy it was with Mill and DRO over hacksaw and file /drill etc
2 days using various setups to finish mill to size and shape.Then i made the 
centre bushes and fitted.Turned down the middle stub axle and ensured a good 
fit .A little tight but if it goes on it cant be far away.Better to test fit direct to 
axles,if you fit to the wheels then rotate to give a good fit but then you have a tight spot which is difficult to get rid of.A final wipe of the axle boxes on the beast side should give me a perfect fit


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## JCSteam (Sep 22, 2017)

Very nicely done I can see why you left them oversized now, I thought it was just to sidestep to the next step, now I see that it was all part of the process.  

I take it you had some issues with burrs on the rear left axle bearing?


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## bazmak (Sep 22, 2017)

No issue with burrs. When i did Heilan Lassie i spent a long time shaping
and polishing the rods only to cock up on the wheel centres on one
That was down to marking out and drilling and using a vertical slide
Doing it this way took longer but getting the knuckle joint on th the drive axle correct,then working back to get the wheel centres correct by fitting direct to the stub axles,got the hard part done.Thankfully i also took my time shaping the rods and did not cock up on them.Waiting for the wheels to arrive then i can finish the rest of the bushes and fit to the pins


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## JCSteam (Sep 22, 2017)

I was meaning with the missing paint on the frame.


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## bazmak (Sep 22, 2017)

The missing paint areas are where i filed down the rivits i fitted
to hold the horns.Every time i have a strip down i clean the worn areas and 
reapply the u coat


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## bazmak (Sep 25, 2017)

Almost finished these 2 little assys.Lot of work involved but interesting
Not sure of the exact location.The Ga gives a dim from the driving wheel
but the frames are not predrilled which indicates to me that the exact location is important and determined by the cylinders and piston stroke so may just fit to dim with a couple of smaller screws so i can adjust slightly if necessary
Still waiting for my wheels


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## bazmak (Sep 27, 2017)

Made these 2 tricky little fellows.Lot of work involved more than the frames
The drg shows the back plate silver soldered and the front fixed with 4 no 8ba
Just enough meat to go up to M3 so drilled and tapped thro and screw fixed both plates front and back wit machined csk hex sock. Final fish to be done at a later stage.All silver steel pins will be hardened also later.They look good
Still waiting for the wheels


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## bazmak (Sep 30, 2017)

Made the last 2 conn rods,half polished and bushed one end before
fitting to the cross heads.Rest of the bushes will be made when some 7/16'
silver streel arrives with my wheels,then i can make a D bit as i dont have a reamer that size


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## JCSteam (Oct 1, 2017)

I bet by when the wheels arrive they'll be in the chuck quicker than I can blink. 

Enjoying watching this loco come to life, and the steps your taking to achieve a good fit on all parts.

Keep posting I'm sat with my cuppa enjoying it


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## bazmak (Oct 4, 2017)

I bushed,made and fitted the brass angles and finished/fitted the motion brackets.Made the guide bars.Then i made a couple of support brkts from the scrap bin to act as substitute for the cylinders and to enable to fit all the motion and adjust/check out everything.Near enough for now.Cant be taken any further until i have the wheels and cylinders


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## bazmak (Oct 5, 2017)

The wheels arrived this morning,straight out of the box and onto the lathe
I will document the process as it is not by the book and may seem a long and drawn out process with lots of unneccessary operations but i will explain so
nobody is thinking what a long winded way of going about thing
Two main requirements to my mind are to get the front of the wheels looking  correct with the insie edge of the wheel rim concentric and the axle central to the centre boss.If we go by the book and mount the wheel with the rear side out,remove approx half of the excess material,turn the OD to just over size and drill and ream the bore we can encounter 2 problems.
1- the bore may not exit the front face dead centre with the boss
2- when the outside face is finished you may get too close to the front of the spokes or even touch them,bad
To overcome this i will take the long way round so it becomes apparent

The castings were of good quality,machined well with few hard spots and most importantly had plenty of excess material
First i mounted in the 5" 4jaw self centering chuck and skimmed the face and OD just enough to remove the skin and clean up.I then reversed and did the same to the outside faces and the wheel dia.Now the wheels are still well oversize but can be replaced in the 4 jaw SC within a couple of thou of concentic and can be treated as fresh out of the box with regards to the 
following operations. Cant wait to start tommorrow


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## bazmak (Oct 6, 2017)

Got a good 5hrs in today and almost finished the wheels.One with the spokes shaped at the back and a coat of paint.When i get them all to this stage
i will make a dedicated turning fixture to finish the OD and tyre to size and hopefully dead concentric to the bore.Only bad moment was taking a cut to the rear face and got a loud bang.My heart stopped i thought i had broken a spoke
but it was only skin/seepage between the spokes coming loose and jolting the tool. When the paint is drying i will make the silver steel crank pins


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## JCSteam (Oct 6, 2017)

Looking good can you explain to the lesser learned (ie me) what is seepage? Is that a chilled piece of casting coming loose or build up on the tool bteaking free, or something else entirely.


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## bazmak (Oct 6, 2017)

If you look at the first photo of the second batch of the back of a wheel in the lathe you can see a couple of spokes are infilled with metal about 20 thou thick
where the molten metal has seeped under the mold and formed a web between spokes.Dont know the correct term but when i faced off the rear side thes thin
skins break loose and jolted the cutter or fly off,no big deal but it made me jump


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## JCSteam (Oct 6, 2017)

Ah right I see what you mean now, the gap between the spokes is missing on the second photo, as it's infilled with metal. Gotcha!


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## Charles Lamont (Oct 6, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Dont know the correct term



That would be 'flash'.


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## bazmak (Oct 6, 2017)

Thanks Charles i remember now.Flash is correct.I actually spent 2 weeks
in the foundry during my apprenticeship.Too hot and dirty for me


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## JCSteam (Oct 6, 2017)

Charles Lamont said:


> That would be 'flash'.



FLASH AH AH!! No flash gorden fan???? Fair enough


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## bazmak (Oct 7, 2017)

Flash is alive? he l save everyone of us
Someone mentioned putting castings in the oven to help paint dry
Just put my wheels in the sun for 4 hrs and a lovely baked enamel finish
Its only about 20oc but the castings got up to about 40oc,no complaints from the wife


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## bazmak (Oct 8, 2017)

Wheels all turned to size and drilled/reamed for crankpins
No problems all went according to plan


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## bazmak (Oct 9, 2017)

Just spent a pleasant/productive few hours in the shed. I made and fitted
the crankpins from 7/16"silver steel and started a D bit from an offcut
I finished the axles and pressed on a wheel to each Starting to look like a train
I now need to make the bushes and fit the conn rods to the nearside only
No matter how far out the rod centres are they will always fit but the the wheels may not turn so i have to be confident i dont have any tight spots
before even looking at the far side.These wheels need to be quartered that is the crank pins need to be 90o apart.The 90o is not critical, what is critical is that all 3 are exactly the same.What i have in mind is to press on the centre
wheel at 90o as naer as i can and then set the others with the conn rods as i press them on.Press fits can be a problem if the wheels twist slightly you lose the centres and then you have to start again.One side pressed on and the other locktite is easier.I have made quartering fixtures before but always got a tight spot.Time will tell.It has taken 6 wks to get this far,not that i am rushing
A lot more work is now required with not as much to show for it.


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## bazmak (Oct 11, 2017)

I made and fitted the rest of the bushes to the conn rods.The D bit worked great,it actually cut about 2 thou oversize but when they were pressed in
they squeezed down to an ideal running fit.I fitted the front conn rod and you guessed it tight spots.Also pressed on the farside wheels and everything locked up solid.Miles out as they say in Yorkshire.Had to make a bodge up puller to get the wheels and then spent 2 days trying to put everything right.The horn centres on the frame i knew were  = 5 to 12 and i had made the conn rods to suit or so i thought.For whatever reason the conn rods were spot on. So i set up 
in the mill and skimmed the horns to much nearer size.Also checked the wheel Quartering and again miles away.the wheels had twisted out of position as they were pressed on.So attacked it from another direction.Calculated the height and made 2 spacers to fit under the crankpins to give 45o each side from vertical.Had to keep checking and adjusting as they were pressed on,boy did they move.Could see where my problems originated.Then i crossed my fingers and said a prayer before reassembling
BINGO just like a bought one. Now i will take a well earned rest while i ponder the next step


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## Herbiev (Oct 11, 2017)

Just wondering where you got the silver steel Baz.


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## JCSteam (Oct 12, 2017)

I'm going to ask what I think will turn out to be an obvious answer. 

On the quartering for the wheels, I can see the two pieces look the same height, is this correct? If so how do you determine the height of them is it half the radius of the wheel, to the outer flange?


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## bazmak (Oct 12, 2017)

Its simple trig. You know the wheel height above the datum and the radius of the crank at 45o to it. simple 45o triangle has side in proportion 1-1-root2
so you can calculate the height of the crank centre - half dia and that gives a height in this case 1.372.So 2 spacers of that size acting like a sine bar posns
the wheels each at 45o


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## pendlesteamer (Oct 16, 2017)

Simplex was my first engine and is now 28 years old, admittedly spending the middle 20 years in its storage box. Now running regularly again.
Would recommend you fit a pole reverser rather than the screw type as designed, much more user friendly and more prototypical for a shunter.
I also changed the regulator to a disc-in-tube type, far better than the screw type. If I was doing it now, I would also face the disc with ptfe.
One mod I might get round to is to fit a smaller capacity axle pump, I find that the bypass has to be fairly well open most of the time.
Another useful addition was to have a level gauge fitted to the rear of the LH side tank where it projects into the cab, you have a constant indication of remaining water.
Search "Simplex" in Engines to see mine.
Good luck with yours.

pendlesteamer


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## wazrus (Oct 16, 2017)

Bazmak

Possibly, you're a firm supporter of Australian businesses: if so, then read no further....hmmm....
BA fasteners can be had, of course, at a price. Small fasteners generally can also be had, again, at a price, or I should say markup.
I've bought loads of small socket-head capscrews on Ebay, out of China, from a mob called Junter Hardware. I've got 'em down to 1.4 and 1.6mm., in a variety of lengths. I also bought some 2mm hex head screws while in Hong Kong some time ago and it wasn't a matter of the supplier pondering or scratching his head, it was very much "Certainly, sir. How many thousand would you like?". I've got nylock nuts at 1.6mm and round-head Phillips screws down to 0.8mm and while round heads mightn't be very useful on a live steamer, it's indicative of what's out there. All in stainless steel.
Hobson's - not sure whether they're Sydney or Melbourne, will also do 3mm hex heads in stainless, at a reasonable price. I'm in Sydney and one of the better nut and bolt suppliers has proved to be Raneve in Riverstone.
I've pretty much moved completely away from BA and any of the other 'imperials' and gone entirely to metric. I've 'replaced' British Standard Brass (26tpi) with 1mm pitch metric tackle and I've got a good suite of taps and dies, at that pitch, from 6mm to 38mm. Taps at 38mm are pretty hefty items and freight/postage can be an issue, but is, more often than not, subsidised out of China by you know who and is often free.
Unethical? Certainly. Effective? You betcha.
Wazrus


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## bazmak (Oct 16, 2017)

thank you pendlesteamer for your informative post.Although i have a love of steam trains from my youth and know of the basic workings i am not very
knowledgeable and am just playing really to keep meep me occupied,whether i get get to steaming stage or just running on air i just dont know.Glad you are following this thread,any help and advice would be greatly appreciated
Thank you Wazrus on your info on fasteners.I am basially using a mix of what i can get hold of and have taps and dies etc.I make revamp fixing to suit looks etc as i get further on


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## bazmak (Oct 16, 2017)

Made and fitted a few more bits.Not in any sequence but what i have in matl to hand and what can be finished and fitted.Every time i pickup the unit from one day to the next it seems stiifer.So i made a couple of knobs to fit the trailing axles and help to turn over the wheels and rods as i make and fit.This way 
by adding items you get a feel for where things are binding.Also noted that
one of the crankpins is rotating.Light press fit was too light as i was worried about cracking the wheel castings.Lots of things to go back on and rectify/improve at the next strip down.Cylinders just arrived so starting them next


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## wazrus (Oct 16, 2017)

Pendlesteamer's thoughts on regulators are interesting. Personally, I've used a poppet type regulator in a Sweet Pea -as per the words and music - and my next 'build' is a freelance job based on bits pinched from various designs.
Like Bazmak, I've had difficulty sourcing much of the specified material here in Oz, such that my wheels are all flame-cut from 20mm black bar. The wheels are quartered using parallel keyways. Frames are fettled from 76x12mm black bar and cylinders are from my own patterns, cast by a local foundry. Sweet Pea used steel wheels also, but a lot of machining produced counterweights etc., so much machining that my next loco, the freelancer, is an outside frame type, so the wheels aren't really 'on show' and as such, are just plain MS discs.
I'm a little surprised to see cast iron wheels without tyres??
Freelance has both twin pumps and will have an injector as well. Belt and braces! Too much water is a good thing....In fact, there are two pumps.
Freelancer is the biggest lump of steaming metal which I reckoned might stably ride 5 inch rails and is more like a mid-sized 7-1/4 incher than a 5. Haven't finished the boiler yet, but it'll be LP gas fired. Barrel is rolled by yours truly out of 4mm copper plate, as 170mm-odd copper tube is a bit hard to source. 5 inch Sweet Pea (named Lathyrus: freelance is Lathyrus Major) used 4mm copper boiler also to the words and music, but not very satisfactory words or music, to the extent I've scrapped it in favour of an LPG specific idea. All to AMBSC copper code.
Wazrus


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## wazrus (Oct 16, 2017)

For Pendlesteamer and Bazmak
Attached - I think - are a few pikkies of The scrapped boiler from Sweet Pea (Lathyrus), beside the new boiler - or at least its barrel - for Lathyrus Major. There are also some pix of the chassis, no rods or valve gear. Valve gear will be Walshcaerts', a design pinched from Reeves' Aquila. I bought the plans for just the valve gear, as there didn't seem much point in re-inventing the gear. There's a strange-looking blue assembly at the rear of the chassis: this is an hydraulic brake. It's an external-contracting type, with friction material bearing onto an axle-mounted drum. With past experience of trying to stop a train with six hefty adults on board, something better than the Sweet Pea lashup or two size 10's buried in the gravel, had to be done. It, like most other bits, are works in progress. I've used twin axle-mounted boiler feed/transfer pumps and these don't use the usual bronze eccentrics, but have very narrow, sealed ball bearings instead. the balls need more space, which reduced the effective eccentric throw. To remedy the short stroke, I've used a 1:3 linkage, so the pump drives look a bit complicated in the pix. No apologies for the kaleidoscopic colour scheme. The colours are what I had available and anything looks better than rusty metal.
Wazrus


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## pendlesteamer (Oct 17, 2017)

Would recommend you don't try and rely on loco brakes when passenger hauling, you need brakes on the riding trucks. Locos would tend to lock up and just slide. Our club passenger trucks have a mechanically operated disc brake on each bogie, if you have 8 to 12 passengers at up to 10mph you need serious brakes to dissipate that energy.
Cast iron wheels without tyres are probably 90% of our clubs locos. For an engine running say a couple of hours a week, wear is not an issue. Steel tyres have slightly better traction and I have put tyres on the drivers of my Midland Single because of that.
My thoughts re feed pumps is to have the loco as efficient as possible. Pumping water and discharging  a high proportion through the bypass is wasting energy. I would like a pump that only just gains on boiler consumption with bypass shut. Top up when stationary or when required is by injector.
One "experiment" I tried on my Simplex was to have the axle pump discharging through a double coil of copper tube wound inside the smokebox wrapper before going to the boiler check valve. It does warm the feed slightly, but not sure if it makes much difference to efficiency.

Pendlesteamer


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## bazmak (Oct 17, 2017)

Hi Pendlesteamer, your first name might be easier.Where are you from in Lancashire ? I too have thought about keying the wheels to the axle but if they are not correct the first time your stuffed.It would overcome the problem of the wheels twisting out of position when quartering and pressing on and of course the not quite correct press fit.But how many times would you have to take them apart ? Thought about getting them right then fitting a small grub screw from the front half and half on wheel and axle, but it wont look right
Your thoughts would be appreciated Regards Barry


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## pendlesteamer (Oct 18, 2017)

Hi Barry
 I live in the borough of Pendle which is just north of Burnley, and have had a lifelong involvement with steam hence the online handle. Spent a number of years as ships engineer mostly steam turbine plant, then even more years as boiler inspector around northern U.K. Now retired, best job ever!
As regards your wheels, many in our club use what we know as a French Key. Once your wheels are correctly positioned on thei axles, you drill half in the axle end and half in the wheel say 1/8 to 3/16 diameter with a depth of say three quarters the wheel thickness. You then press in a round dowel with a drop of loctite if necessary. When dressed off flush with the wheel face and painted they are barely noticeable. If you ever need to pull your wheels, a grub screw may have seized in; whereas the wheel will draw over the dowel.
Regards
Rodger


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## wazrus (Oct 18, 2017)

For Pendlesteamer and Bazmak
I've seen many and varied methods of quartering drivers and parallel keys do it for me, every time. I use a very simple truly square lump of suitably bored mild steel, into which one axle is keyed. It's a simple matter to then rotate the assembly 90 degrees and machine the other. With reasonable attention to accuracy, it'd be hard to miss! Note that the assembly is held to the mill table, not in a mill vice.
The French key described: we used to call it a 'Scotch' key!
Brakes. Ah, brakes. There's another external-contracting hydraulic unit on my riding truck, two axles of which are linked with roller chain. One of my passenger trucks - a bogie vehicle - also has both axles on each bogie chain linked. The chain run on each is led over a mid-positioned sprocket, on the axle of which is 200mm brake disc, carrying a motor-cycle disc caliper. A motor-cycle master cylinder and flexible lines ensure that all 8 wheels brake together. It's possible to lock up all 8 wheels when loaded.
None of the braking I've used, though, will bring a loaded train to screaming halt. Not a lot is gained, as you say, by locking wheels, other than annoying flat spots.
For internal keyways, I use my own home made broaches. Cutting the mild steel drivers' keyways, while needing a few passes with the broach, is quite easy.
Wazrus


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## pendlesteamer (Oct 18, 2017)

Hi Wazrus
Yes you are correct it should be Scotch Key or sometimes Dutch Key according Wikipedia.
Emergency stops are difficult with loaded trains as you say, it is imperative to keep a sharp lookout ahead especially when multiple trains are operating. We have had the occasional near miss and they are always due to lapses in attention when adjusting injectors or firing coal etc.
Regards
Rodger


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## bazmak (Oct 19, 2017)

Thanks Rodger,for your info.Been to Burley many times for work and years ago
to watch Leeds.I always remember the crowd chanting (keep codding them Elder)
Well the cylinder set arrived and all checked out OK. Again i took the long way round.When i did the 3 cyl Heilan Lassie i did everything in the lathe on faceplt/angle.It was easy and the words and music came from dear old Curly
from 1947.Now i have the mill and the casting are much larger.For boring i 
could use the mill but prefered to use the lathe.I deskinned and took a light cut
to all main faces ignoring dims but trying to get squareness to all faces
mainly for gripping in the chuck and use of datums.I then gripped in the 4 jaw and centraalised the cored hole before boring out/cleanup and faced the end
Mainly to check out the accuracy of the bore for parallel etc.Quite good
So i reversed,recentralised and bored and faced the other end to size.I then put in the mill and faced the first end to size. Now was the tricky bit,ie machining the 2 main faces to dim but more importantly parallel to the bore
Little bit of playing about and packing with feeler gauges but it was easy to measure from the face to the edge of the bore.Long way round but got there in the end


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## bazmak (Oct 21, 2017)

Good progress on the cylinders.All the main faces/bores are finished to size
Bores are about 12 thou down.Reason being to allpw for a little honing/cleaning
and also to use std 1.5" dia stock for the pistons.Will assemble and make sure
everything turns over before maching steam passages etc.
Rather than using stud and nuts to hold down the steam chest i plan to use
hx sock cap screws partly recesses.This will give me a problem of keeping the chest in position when the fixings are removed.I have in mind to fit 2 no
csk fixings thru the steam chest only,with some of the fixings going thru everything and some only into the steam chest.As drawn there are no fixing dims just a note to say to posn to avoid steam passages etc which are drawn offcentre but not dimensioned,but i assume will be central to the piston bore
So will leave some fixings untill later when things become more clear and i 
can maybe even things up purely for aesthetics.Better safe than sorry


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## JCSteam (Oct 22, 2017)

Is the angle bracket in front of the leading wheel a tempory fixing? I imagine it is, is the slide for the pistons big end bolted to the rear of the cylinder?


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## bazmak (Oct 22, 2017)

Yes the angle bracket was temporary to check fit and dims for the cross head etc. Length of slide bars is within 10 thou when i checked to the piston etc
All still temp bolted so should be able to finalize more accurately when i 
make the piston/rod etc and check travel. Then its a strip down to free and 
finalize the wheels and conn/coupling rods. Still a bit stiff. Mau have to tighten up the crank pins and may key the wheels/axles


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## bazmak (Oct 22, 2017)

After a few more hours and in response to the above post i removed the temp brkts and fitted the partial machined cylinders and slide bars.Still stiff but turns freely by hand.Next to make the pistons and rods and check turnover before
a strip down to remedy all minor niggles and fit all the correct fixings etc


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## 10K Pete (Oct 23, 2017)

I've been following along from the start, Baz, and loving every minute. I've always want to build one like that and this thread may show me just how 'easy' it would be!

There's a problem: as the thread grows it's taking a long time for all the photos to load, and the current page isn't really visible until all the photos load! And the pics run off the right side...

The one image I just checked, the rear cylinder head in the mill on your own table, is 1200 x 726 in size. That's twice what I thought they should be????

Anyway, maybe someone smarter than me can figure out how to fix this.....:hDe:

Cheers!!

Pete


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## wazrus (Oct 23, 2017)

Cylinders for  my three creations so far have all been from varying styles of my own patterns. With these, I usually leave the steam chest in one piece with the cylinders and slice the chest off in a bandsaw, after driliing chest-to-cylinder stud holes. Cylinder(s) and chests are then carefully machined either in a shaper or mill, straight and parallel to bore and mounting face.
Bore finish is as advised by a friend who routinely machines hydraulic cylinders and parts and it was his contention that the rings/piston/packing would 'do the needful' over a short time and it was more important to have the bore parallel for its length, than mirror-finished. Rings are cast-iron, machined from a solid lump of cast rod.
Both cylinders were aligned together with a close-fitting steel bar through the bores and mounted on the mill table, using vee-blocks, for machining of the mounting faces. An angle plate held the block firmly and was also used for machining the ends.
It's pretty safe to say that my patterns allowed more 'meat' for machining and squaring than commercial offerings.
Wazrus


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## bazmak (Oct 26, 2017)

Just the passageways and valve gear to do.Normal practice is to fit
studs and nuts approx 15 each side.More realistic but ugly so decided
my favourites the hex sock sets.In order to maintain location when the fixings and cover plate are removed i fitted 2 no recessed csk screws to secure the
steam chest. The 9 screws down the long sides co thru and fix to the cyl
while the 4 end ones are drilled and tapped to the chest only to avoid
clashing with the steam passages.The result is eaqually spaced fixings 
as seen on top of the cover but when removed the chest stays put to 
adjust the valves..Only one miss drilled hole which i plugged.Now to finis













h the valves and tidy up everything


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## bazmak (Oct 27, 2017)

Slide valves finished and fitted.Now to finish the cylinders
Steam passages etc.Then its a full strip down to finalize the 
wheel and axle quartering etc and to ease off all the tight spots


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## bouch (Oct 27, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Just the passageways and valve gear to do.Normal practice is to fit
> studs and nuts approx 15 each side.More realistic but ugly so decided
> my favourites the hex sock sets.In order to maintain location when the fixings and cover plate are removed i fitted 2 no recessed csk screws to secure the
> steam chest. The 9 screws down the long sides co thru and fix to the cyl
> ...



Interesting idea there.  I've never seen anyone use significantly countersunk screws to hold the steam chest to the cylinders without the cover attached...  That's an idea I might have to steal someday...

BTW - my father is about 95% done with his Simplex.  He's working on the superheater now...


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## bazmak (Oct 31, 2017)

Two csk screws give an accurate repeatable conn,not quite as good as dowels
but far easier.I use the principle often.The only reason the countersinks are so deep is that i did not have long enough screws,so dont read anything into that
I could have used cap heads with the heads undercut to suit the c,sink/bore
 only benefit of that is that you use larger allan keys
Pistons finished ,fitted and connected/pinned. Still turns over by hand but a lot stiffer due to compression resistance by the pistons.I am waiting for delivery of some small endmills so i can finish the cylinders and cut the passageways which
should greatly improve the resistance.I have now started on the linkage between cylinders and valves.Lot of work with not a lot to show so may be a few days before further posts.I am fitting Viton O rings to the pistons and plan to fit O rings to valve and piston rods in leiu of the old fashion stuffing boxes
with graphite/asbbestos Any comments ?,i assume O rings under compression are suitable for the rods ? Also did the full strip down and fixed the loose drive pin.Checked the wheel quartering had not moved and decided to leave as is for now. May key the axles later


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## bazmak (Nov 2, 2017)

Another half day to finish 2 anchor links,along with 1 day to finish 2
combination levers. How i wish i had cnc.Very difficult to get such small items
perfect,only needs a few thou to make them look like dogs +++++ nut
these are not too bad. Will polish up everthing later if i live that long


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## bazmak (Nov 4, 2017)

Good days work,finished the pair of rad rods.Complicated little sods
How i ever attempted anything like this without a mill i will never know
Just to wind down i finishe with something simple.Made the weight shaft ,spacer collars and bushes.No 3/8" reamer but as i remembered in the past
drilled the bushes 9.5mm and a perfect running fit for 3/8" round bar


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## bazmak (Nov 8, 2017)

Or expansion linkage,the name is not important but as Brian Rupnow on his
thread says its a very interesting mechanism.I had the materials on hand 
and while waiting for some cutters to finish the cylinders i decided to make it in tandem with Brians thread. We both may learn something.After approx 3 days
of hard work i got to the stage shown
2 problems. the front and rear plates have pivot pins which are slightly askew
may cause problems down the line. Also the 8 no spacers 7x5x2.5mm are not
perfect and are terrible to fit during assembly,all have to be individually marked
So to overcome both problems i will probably remake the front and rear plates
but machine from solid to incorporate the spacer as part of the plate.Then redrill and ream for the 3/16 pivot pins to overcome the out of plumb problem
Depending what arrives in the post i may start now while setups are still fresh in my mind or later if i find something more interesting.That video you posted
of the reversing mechanism was great Brian but lacks a little more in depth look at the end of the main reversing principle.Its difficult to understand in your minds eye,cant wait to see it working:thumbup:


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## Builder01 (Nov 9, 2017)

I have just recently found this forum and your thread about building a Simplex locomotive. You have done a nice job on the expansion links and radius rods.  This is not a simple job. I have built a set also, but, for a Super Simplex. They are almost exactly the same. Eventually, you may discover that you might have to do a bit of filing to make sure you get full valve travel. You should also make sure that the die block does not bottom out in the expansion link when in full forward and full reverse. The limit should be at the reversing wheel, not at the expansion link. I think the full valve travel is 9/16". Good work!

David


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## bazmak (Nov 9, 2017)

Thank you David for your comments,just what i have been waiting for from 
someone who has built the loco and willing to pass on advice.Please tell me
what is the difference between the simplex and the super simplex ? In simple terms.I am working to original drawings i have had in drawer for many,many years and have bought the build book ($150) and not much use.The book was written in the 1940s and assumes the builder has only a lathe and V slide
at most or hacksaw and file.All the main build descriptions concentrate on
setups on faceplates etc.I am currently remaking the front and back plates
to incorporate the 8 small spacers.If i had thought more initially instead of
blindly following the drawings i could have improved the design much better


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## Builder01 (Nov 9, 2017)

Hi Bazmak,

The simplex was designed by Martin Evans, who was at one time the editor of the Model Engineer magazine. If you are building the first version of the Simplex, it was first published in a series of articles in Model Engineer starting in April of 1967. It was a very popular locomotive and many have been built. It was decided by Martin to update the Simplex and republish it. The Super Simplex has a few improvements and was also published in ME starting in April of 1989.  The building book for the Simplex is pretty much exact copies of the articles in the ME. I actually found the articles helpful, as I have never built a locomotive.

The main differences are very slight, but, important. The first and perhaps most different is the boiler. The boiler has been enlarged to 5" outside diameter, but, more important is the lay out and distribution of the fire tubes. Also, the Super features three super heater tubes instead of only one. 

The entire valve motion has been changed a bit and is perhaps a bit easier to set on the Super. The cylinder bore was enlarged on the Super, but, should actually be reduced. I have bored my cylinders to 1-3/8" instead of the 1-9/16" on the drawing. Don't worry, at this diameter the engine still has plenty of power and can easily spin it's wheels! It was suggested by a very experienced person in England to reduce the cylinder bores. Also, by use of a locomotive design spreadsheet, it was shown that the original bores are much too large.

The forward and aft coupling rods are connected together in the more traditional manner on the Super. 

The water tanks are build quite differently on the Super versus the Simplex. On the Super, the tanks are not part of the running boards. I have further modified mine such that the tanks are also not part of the cab either. This way, the cab can be removed without have to remove the tanks as well.

Also, as suggested to me by friend in England, I made a few other modifications to the boiler. I just had my boiler certified in May of this year. The locomotive is not yet finished, but, can run under it's own steam. I have had a fun time running it this year, it has been quite a learning curve having never driven a coal fired loco before.

This winter, I will hopefully finish the plate work. I have been running the loco with no tanks or cab. I have been using my riding car as a "tender" to supply water to the loco.

As for the expansion link, I made it exactly like the drawing. the little spacers did not seem to be a problem for me. I also did as you did, and tapped the inside plate to eliminate having to use nuts.




David


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## bazmak (Nov 10, 2017)

Thank you for your input David and please keep the comments coming.The finish on the your conn rods looks excerlent i hope i can get somewhere near.At the moment i am leaving as machined with a blending in with a file
when things come together i will start polishing etc
Well i wasnt happy with the expansion links and remade the the outer plates
to incorporate those pesky little spacers. I wonder how many others have gone this way or just blindly followed the drawings
Pressing the pins into 2.5mm thk matl was asking for trouble so i made the plates a full 5mm and remade and pressed in the pins full depth.I then machined the centres down to 2.5mm so the spacers are integral with the plates. Boy did it make assembly so much easier and it looks better too
Made and fitted the link from silver steel but dont plan on doing any hardening or case hardening just yet. With careful use of a no of needle files i achieved 
nice and full movement.to the dims on the drawings.Hopefully it will be sufficient when everything is turned over


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## Builder01 (Nov 10, 2017)

That is certainly another way to manufacture the outer plates of the expansion link, clever!

As for "full travel" of the valve gear, you will not really know this until you have the reversing wheel and reach rod fabricated and all connected up. You will be looking for about 9/16" movement of the slide valve when in full gear, forward, or reverse.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 10, 2017)

Thank you David,i wonder if anybody else has done it this way or am i the first
The reach rod for F & R on my drawings is for a folded brky,which i have made
rather than flat brkt and spacer and for a screw adjusting slide.Question, i have seen a quadrant brkt and lever arm on U tube as an alternative.It looks more authentic and a speedier changeover.Before i go too far,is the quadrant better
and if so where can i get the drgs


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## Builder01 (Nov 10, 2017)

I don't know if anyone has built the expansion link as you have, but, I do not know many builders of steam locomotives!

The screw reverser is certainly a European style piece of equipment, and to be sure is British. Screw or quadrant, neither is better than the other, just different. I went with the screw reverser. It is a double lead, left handed, 1/4"-20 thread. Since it is double lead, it is actually two 10 per inch threads, one nested inside the other. Also, since it is really 10 threads per inch, going from full forward to reverse takes but a moment. With the screw, it is also infinitely adjustable for the cut off. The Super features a flat mount for the reverser versus the folded. I don't yet have the top plate for the reverser fabricated, but here is a photo of the double lead screw, it works quite well.

Both the nut and the screw were single point cut on the lathe. I made the screw first, using the pitch diameter for a 1/4"-20 thread. I made the nut second, to fit the screw.

I do not have drawings for a quadrant type reverser. Both the Simplex and Super have the screw type.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 10, 2017)

Thank you David for the advice and the nice photo.I have made the folded brkt
and silver soldered the 2 brass blocks in posn.At least i hope i have they seem to have stuck.I was well versed in silver solder over the years but only have at the moment a small mapp gas torch so i am limited to small items that can be adequately heated or small items of silver steel than can be hardened and tempered. Will soon have to look at ways of getting more heat quicker
In the UK i had oxy/acet but at 70 yrs of age with only a small shed i dont know if its viable.I have a barbeque with a gas bottle so i dont know if i can hook up something better.I think the local hardware store supplies disposable oxygen bottles.Many,many years since i did any serious gas welding
Back to the screw reverser,i had in mind just to go the simple el cheapo way just for starter.That is some M6 s/s althread RH single to to see how it goes
As for double pitch i could manage to screw cut the male but the nut would be beyond me


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## Builder01 (Nov 11, 2017)

As for a torch, your mapp gas will work just fine for many small items. I use a small mapp gas torch to do all of my pipe fittings. The big torch only came out for  the boiler fabrication.

For the reverser, I did not attach the blocks to the stand until I was sure the screw, bearing blocks and the nut block were all lined up well, just in case I needed to adjust anything. All those holes must be concentric or it will bind. 

A single lead right hand screw will work just fine, except it will take a few more turns to get from forward to reverse. I'm sure you will get use to that. It will be obvious which way the nut block is moving. When you get the reach rod connected and the return crank and eccentric rod installed, the nut block should go forward for the forward direction, and aft for the reverse direction. It is possible to install the return cranks such that the opposite happens!

Since you are limited torch wise, what are your plans for the boiler?

David


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## bazmak (Nov 11, 2017)

Havent even thought about the boiler,too scary at my age.Will how how far i get for starters,my main aim is to get it running on air before thinking of the boiler
With the right equipment,oxy/acet and pickling bath etc i have (had when i was younger) the capabilities to fabricate and silver solder the boiler to a good standard.However i am 70 yrs old with only a small shed.The boiler materials are priced at $1200 then the cost of the equipment ? May check out the cost of having a proffessional boiler made if i am happy with the air run chassis
Thank you for the info on the screw reverser.I did make a spacer 
/jig/fixture to hold the brass blocks while i silver soldered in position but the small mapp
tourch really struggled.Took too long to heat up so increased oxidisation etc and the main rulle with slilver solder is quick heat for cleanliness (next to godliness)
Its 30oc today and my shed has a translucent roof so will be too hot for long hours,but i have started 2 lever arms for the weight shaft and i am hoping to finish them and spend more time polishing hoping to achieve somewhere near your high standards


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## Builder01 (Nov 11, 2017)

$1200 seems pretty high for boiler materials. I got my boiler materials kit from Blackgates. This included all copper and several bronze castings for some of the larger bushings. It also included a bronze cast "stick", to make the rest of the bushings from. With shipping to the U.S., it cost  £450.32, which is about $600 U.S. dollars. I think this is about $800 Australian Dollars. I have not included the cost of the silver solder, but, I got some pretty good deals for it off of Ebay. My torch is a Sievert, it was about $80 U.S., I had to buy it specifically to construct this boiler. 

It is also, for a little more money, you can get the kit with all of the plates flanged. I did not do this as my fire box is not made to the drawing. I flanged all of my plates myself. In the U.S., 1 inch scale locomotives run on 4-3/4" gauge track. So, part of my Super Simplex build was to re-gauge it for 4-3/4" track. This consisted mostly of "squeezing" the dimension between the frames by 1/4". As you can imagine, this effects everything that fits between the frames, this includes the fire box of the boiler.

As far as polishing rods goes, I actually did very little. My finish was mostly achieved by carefully de-burring, and that's about it. What helps is to get a good finish to begin with. A rigid setup, sharp tools, and make the last cut very light and feed the work very slowly. I have no automatic feeds or DRO on my milling machine. Also, when using  small diameter cutters, make sure the RPMs are fast enough, but, not too fast or you will burn the cutter. If you can afford it, carbide is the best. I can only afford carbide for my smallest cutters.

You are 70? I guess your avatar is not a photo of you! HA! (Shh...I'm 56!)

David


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## bazmak (Nov 11, 2017)

Thanks for your input,will ask many more questions as i go on. The boiler kit is from my nearest supplier in Melbourne and i too thought it was a bit high
Will look at a price for buying the basic materials from my adelaide non ferrous metal supplier and a suitable gas torch etc when i get nearer that position
Please send me some more closeup photos as i move forward so i can get a better feel for how good your finish is,camera lighting etc.I can see one of my problems is deburring,its excessive on small items. I have just finished 2
reversing links,one to my current standard and one taken to the next stage with 120g emerycloth.No deburring by filing the corners just the faces which
produces a crisper corner.Its true you younguns can teach old dogs new tricks
Have also posted a couple of shots of my 3/12" G Heilan Lassie which i sold part finished in 2004 prior to moving from UK to Oz permanently.


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## Builder01 (Nov 11, 2017)

Your lifting arms look great! I did notice that you machined the large hub by turning. I machined the sides the same way as I did the main connecting rods. On the weigh shaft, I saw a few back and forth scratches, there might be a burr on the inside of one of the bores.

Your 3-1/2" gauge locomotive is really nice! Too bad you did not get finish it. I would like to make a pacific in 1" scale, but, it's a pretty big project. Maybe a 2-6-2T instead. 

Attached is  photo of my weigh shaft and lifting arms assembly early in my build. As you can see, the eccentric rod is a temporary adjustable type. I actually ran the loco for several months with the temporary rods. They have since been replaced.

The second photo shows one of the final eccentric rods in place.

David


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## Builder01 (Nov 11, 2017)

Forgot to ask, what is the story on the two beautiful Myford lathes? Are these yours? Sure look nice!

I really wanted one of those Myfords when I was a kid. I could not afford it, and I settled for a cheaper Taiwan lathe. Still have, still use it!

David


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## bazmak (Nov 11, 2017)

Hi ,i like the temp/adjust eccentric rod.I have not made mine yet so i might go the same route while checking out the motions etc.I am waiting for some small
cutters to arrive so i can finish off the cylinders.Until i cut the steam passages
there is too much compression resistance to get an accurate feel for where i am
Your linkage still looks far more professional than mine,i hope its a lot to do with the camera. The weight shaft is just 3/8" bms stock and i just drilled the links 9.5mm as i have no reamer.Not the perfect fit but good enough for a pinned fit. Did you use taper pins or rollpins etc??. I have 2 taper pin reamers from 30yrs ago 1 at 3/32 and 1 at 1/8 and i got ashock at the price of taper pins almost $4 each.Long time since i fitted taper pins. What did you use for the cross head /piston ?
As i by by i collect steam locomotive photos as a hobby,i used to be a school boy spotter. I have every named british steam loco from all 4 regions from 1900. If you need any for reference let me know your email address attached a couple of samples


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## bazmak (Nov 11, 2017)

Like a fool i sold those 2 Myfords at the same time as the loco prior to 
retiring to Australia. I did not intend to get back into model engineering
but with time on my hands bought chinese lathe and mills. If you look up
Bazmak threads on this forum you can learn my life history


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## wazrus (Nov 12, 2017)

As Bazmak says, boiler materials are certainly expensive items. That's my reason for 'rolling my own'. I buy 4mm copper plate. This is often available in half-plate or bits and pieces. I built my own set of heavy-duty rolls, largely based on an old ME article, but beefed up and fully geared. Rolls are 50mm diameter, 600 long and 4mm copper - even half-hard - isn't a problem, other than it needs a lot of elbow grease!
My formers are all mild steel, as any sort of wooden formers just simply didn't stand up to the pounding, even with frequent annealing
My welding/brazing tackle includes my own E size oxygen bottle, which is tested every ten years and is usually FULLY filled. this is coupled with propane torches. I have some of the largest propane burners available and have made a few of my own, especially ones with a long neck, so as the operator can be a little further away from the heat. For a larg-ish boiler, I'll fire up two or three big propane burners and in my hand, I'll have an oxy-propane multi-nozzle burner, which pushes out a very big, hot flame.
All that gear going at once would do credit to a 747!
I'm a bit older than you, Bazmak and I certainly save any boiler work for the cooler months! 
Wazrus


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## bazmak (Nov 12, 2017)

Thank you for your post Wazrus,what you desscribe is what i would expect
Propane/oxygen big burner running and oxy acetylene for the local heat
I am not an expert but i know hocopper runs away with the heat,and you need red heat to silver solder. I am trying to not think about the boiler yet.I di partially do the boiler for Heilan Lassie just the outer wrapper etc as seen in the photos .Not easy but i had a decent workshop and oxyacetylene.But it was much easier in the UK in the winter months


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## Builder01 (Nov 12, 2017)

Beautiful locomotive photos! 

Too bad about the lathes, they certainly were beauties!

Yes, all of my lifting arms are pinned to the shaft with taper pins. I got all of my taper pins and reamers from Ebay. These items are quite cheap from Ebay, and can be had brand new. I cannot believe how much money this has saved me. The piston shaft is pinned to the cross head with taper pins.

All of my straight reamers are also from Ebay, brand new, very cheap. Many of my threaded fasteners are also from Ebay.

For the steam passages, I just drilled them and then used small files to open the passage into an oblong slot.

The Simplex boiler is only about 3mm (1/8") thick. It can all be done with a single large Sievert torch. Th boiler barrel on the Super is 5" and for the Simplex I think it is 4-1/2". Yes, your torch must be large enough to put heat in faster than the copper can radiate it. You must build up a hearth with fire bricks. Do not use the type that are in  fire place, but, the type that reflect the heat back into the work, like the bricks used in a refractory. The bricks are light weight and are very fragile. Stack them on the floor and all around and on top of the boiler. It can be done. My boiler was certified in May of this year, all silver soldered with a single Sievert propane torch.

My flanged plates were all done over wooden formers. I used poplar and hard maple. Unless you are going into production, there is no need for steel formers. In fact, my formers could probably make several more sets, as they are hardly worn or beaten.

Since I don't seem to be able to put text between my photos, here's a little text describing the attached photos:

Photo one - This is a closeup shot of the piston rod pinned to the cross head, it is attached with taper pins put in at an angle. Large end of the pin up, so if any thing were ever to loosen, the pin would not fall out!

Photo two - Close up of the cylinder face ports being machined. Everything was layed out on the face just for reference. These cuts were all made by reading the numbers on the hand wheels. I used carbide cutters for this operation.

Photo three - The steam passages were simple drilled holes. The holes were then connected sideways with a small round Swiss file to create a nice oblong hole.

Photo four - I relieved the cylinder covers where the steam passages meet the covers.

Photo five - Here you can see the main parts of the cylinders. You can just barely see the oblong steam passage in the cylinder end.

Photo six - This is the copper boiler kit from Blackgates. Yes, it was expensive, but, it was all the correct type of copper, all in one place, and was actually a good value. If I had it to do over, I would go this way again.

Photo seven - Here you can see a flanged plate next to its former. The former is made of hard maple and could probably be used several times over. What I like about wooden formers, is that they are very easy and quick to make.

Photo eight - When is comes to heating the boiler, I completely covered it with refractory bricks, except for the area where I was going to solder. I started with the boiler uncovered for a pre-heat. When it was quite hot, I stacked the bricks on top and then concentrated on the area where I was going to work.


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## bazmak (Nov 12, 2017)

Thank you for your excerlent photos David your workmanship puts me to shame.Will have try harder and remake any parts i am not happy with further down the line I have tried ebay and not having much luck with taper pins
I think that the 2 reamers i have 3/32 and 1/8 will suffice but can you point me in right direction for taper pins.I was looking on Utube  and saw a short video
on simplex running on air and then steam with lime green wheels. Yours ??
Although the simplex is a freelance and not designed as any specific full size loco i wanted to put region and number to it. No namers im afraid
So i have done some research thru my books and images and the nearest i could find is LMS nos 47160-68 Fowler Dock Tank 0-6-0T class 2f intro 1928


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## Builder01 (Nov 12, 2017)

Hi Bazmak,

The photo really looks like a life size Simplex! It also looks a bit like Kennions "Butch", as the weigh shaft and lifting arms are in a notch in the forward end of the water tanks. In either case, the loco in the photo also has a Belpaire boiler, you can see the "bump" at the fire box end. What a neat old photo!

Thank you so much for the kind words. For good fits of  shafts into arms, you really need to get reamers for a proper fit. If the fit is poor, a pin of any sort will not hold well and the arm will wiggle because the the pin is tight, but, the arm on the shaft is not. The pin become a "pivot point".

For taper pins, there are imperial and metric. They both have similar tapers. Imperial is 1/4" per foot, and metric is 1 in 50. Physically, this taper is very similar. I am a little bit old school and only have imperial taper reamers and pins. Attached should be a chart of standard imperial taper pins. Standard lengths appear as grey colored rectangles. These are only small taper pins, and are probably the only ones to be used on miniature locomotives.

The pins are identified by a number size, example: 0, 4/0, or 7/0. Each number size is described by the diameter of the large end. Each size is available in different lengths and the appropriate numbered reamer will make a tapered  hole for all lengths of a given number.

Example, a 4/0 reamer will make tapered holes for any length of the 4/0 pins. I believe the pins I used on the piston rod to the cross head were 4/0 pins 1/2" or 5/8" long. I'm not sure about the length, it was a while ago. I still need to pin the return crank to the crank pin, but, it needs a 7/0 pin. This is pretty darn small, and I have been avoiding this job and just relying on the clamping screw on the return crank to position it!

As for obtaining the pins from Ebay, there are some right now 4/0 by 5/8" long, $13.97 USD for a pack of 50. There are many more listed. You can also obtain a 4/0 pin that is longer, and then cut it to length as needed. The large end of a given size is always the same. 

As for reamers there are also many listed right now on Ebay. If you are going to use a 4/0 pin, you will need a 4/0 reamer. I like the reamers with a left hand spiral as they push the chips forward as you turn the reamer in a clockwise direction. This is always done by hand with a tap handle on the reamer. I do not know if you have experience with taper reamers, especially small ones. You must remove it often to clear the chip. Always use a tapping fluid or cutting oil. Never turn the reamer backwards, you will break something. Go slow and keep testing the pin for fit to see how far it is fitting into the hole. 

Proper installation and fitting of a taper pin requires patience. (This is why many folks avoid them) You will be rewarded with a pin that will hold better than any other type. It can easily be removed years later and re-installed. I have worked on very small small machinery that is over 100 years old. This is when I discovered my love for taper pins. 

I do use roll pins occasionally, but not on lifting arms or cross heads. 

There are 4/0 reamers on Ebay right now, one for as little as $3.99 USD. The average price is around $15 USD.

I not know how Ebay works in Australia. This you will have to investigate.

Hope this helps a little to sort out taper pins for you.

David


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## Builder01 (Nov 12, 2017)

Almost forgot, yes, the Super Simplex on YouTube with the "Apple Green" wheels is my baby! The first steam test in my shop was done using my boiler that I use to run my stationary steam engines. I thought, why not connect it up to my locomotive for a real steam test! Operating on real steam is when these little beasts really come to life!

David


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## bazmak (Nov 13, 2017)

Saw the taper pins on ebay.$20 for 50 but postage is $50 I think i will bite the bullet and buy 6 from Melbourne at $3.50 each.If i buy 3.0 x 2" long i can
a small one ane and a big one from each. I assume.I had plenty of experience
taper pinning during my apprenticeship thats how long i have kept the reamers


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## Builder01 (Nov 13, 2017)

$50 for postage, that's crazy! Sorry about that. Isn't their some sort of industrial supplier in Australia like McMaster-Carr? Even $3.50 a piece seems like a bit much. As for size, 3/0 in the piston rod only leaves you 1/16" on a side, perhaps that is enough. Make sure the pin is in the very center of the shaft and the cross head is reamed for a very close fit to the piston rod.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 13, 2017)

Hi David,if the pins are 1/8 at the bigger end and 2" long i can use the bottom section to give me about a 4.0 or the top end to me about a 3.0.I think i would orefer to use 1 slightly larger pin than 2 smaller ones.I also bought some 3/32
rollpins.I have pinned them 2mm for the moment to check the stroke is central to the cylinder.May need to adjust but i am awaiting endmills to finish the cylinders before i do anything else


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## Builder01 (Nov 13, 2017)

I guess you could use 1 larger pin instead of two smaller pins. But, something to consider, is that the entire weight of the locomotive and the train is bearing on the cross head to piston rod connection. With one pin per cross head instead of two, this weight bears even harder on the hole through the cross head. The socket in the cross head  for the piston rod has a very thin wall. One large hole might start to elongate with time. There must have been  reason for our friend Marty to specify two pins per cross head. I'm sure you will make the right choice for yourself.

David


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## Blogwitch (Nov 13, 2017)

Baz,

Ok, it is a UK supplier, but that shouldn't cause a problem.

For small steel and brass taper pins (metric), try these

http://www.proopsbrothers.com/assorted-pack-of-100-brass--steel-tapered-pins-x1159-430-p.asp

It is also worth immersing yourself in the website, I always find lots of other small things that I want. They do really cheap brass wire brushes for fitting onto a pigtail, great for removing dirt and debris without doing further damage.

Imperial taper pin reamers, had mine a long time and no problems, great price for a full set

http://www.tracytools.com/taper-pin-reamer-imperial/taper-pin-reamers-set-hss-1-16-1-4

or if you want metric reamers, but only individual

http://www.tracytools.com/taper-pin-reamer

Again, always a good read if you are after odd cutting tools.

Even though the pins are metric and the reamers are imperial, I have never had trouble fitting them together at these small sizes, metric is 1 in 50, imperial is 1 in 48


John


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## bazmak (Nov 13, 2017)

Thanks John ,i have ordered 100 small taper pins for about $15 posted
I only have a reamer for the largest size but for that price i can afford a couple more smaller reamers.Will also get 4 at 1/8 local for $3.50 each and that 
should cover me.
Yes David i have thought about the load on the pins so i dont know which way to go yet.I followed the drawing for the cross head and machined the collar on the end which leaves me less room for 2 pins,also thought about pining at 90o
with one vertical if i can get them out.All to be concidered in the near future
Meanwhile after a few days in the shed with the outside temp in the mid 30s
and the shed getting up over 40oc i have almost finished the screw reversing
gear. Just used an M6 s/s rod,made the wheel etc.Finish is a little better than my average.:fan:


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## Builder01 (Nov 14, 2017)

Nice work on the reversing screw, looks good!

If and when you pin the cross head, I suggest that you try to put the large end of the pins in the upward direction, so, if anything was to ever loosen, the pin(s) do not fall out. I put both of my pins in such a way that they can also be removed with out too much trouble. They are installed at about 45 degrees from vertical. This made for a crazy set up to drill for the pins, attached is a photo of the set up.

The adjustable parallel was used to make sure the cross head was pushing hard on the piston rod before drilling. This was drilled as an assembly to make sure everything was lined up well. 

David


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## bazmak (Nov 14, 2017)

Nice set up for drilling for the taper pins.I still have to remove some matl from
the end of the piston rods to centralise the piston this may cause a problem with opening up the 2mm holes for say a 3mm taper pin.With the lever arms
i remember from the dim and distant past it was good practice to drill and tap at 90o for a grub screw to hold in posn for drilling and fitting the taper pin
Not practical for the cross head but i realize i need to clamp down or bottom the rod before drilling Will all come out in the wash


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## bazmak (Nov 14, 2017)

Just noticed that on you reversing screw the 3 bearing blocks are milled much deeper than 1/8" that my drawing shows.Much more positive guide for the 2 fixed and 1 moving block. Also like your small wheel bit more shape than mine
Once i get mine up to a certain stage i may remake some items for improvement.Also toying wit the idea of single point screwcutting a new 2 start
screw. Would have to make a tap also,cant see how i could cut a 2 start 1/4" internal thread single point. How did you do it ?


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## Builder01 (Nov 14, 2017)

Yes, the nut for the reverser screw was a challange! I ground a piece of 1/4" HSS into a miniature boring bar. (Much "quality time" spent in front of the grinding wheel.) The "boring bar" had the end ground such that it had a 60 degree cutter on the end to make the thread. No photos of this right now, but, I may post one later today. Before making the thread in the reverser nut block, I did a "practice" run on a simple round piece of brass just to prove to myself that I could actually make this thing!

The reverser wheel is modeled after the plastic hand wheels on my little Unimat 3! I really like the shape and feel of them, so the reverser got one made of steel. I still use my little Unimat for many of the small parts. It's so much easier to fee what you are doing on a small machine. I can also get the RPMs up much higher on my Unimat. The Unimat is also handy for a miniature high speed drill press.  

David


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## bazmak (Nov 14, 2017)

I have a sieg C4 lathe and then got a bought a cheap sc3 to to mod up
Main advantage of the small lathe is you can reverse the lead screw thru
the tumbler gears so can cut a left hand thread.May try making a tap from
silver steel just for the excersise.If i can make a tap the i can make a short length of 2 start thread..The drw shows 1/8 silver steel pins pressed into the brass sliding block but there is not much depth did you have any problems
I have in mind to make top hat pins and press into the reach rod
Meanwhile i have reposted my thread on the small sieg and mods you
might find it interesting.Are you going to start posting your own threads ??


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## Builder01 (Nov 14, 2017)

Hi Bazmak,

Yes, in order to cut left hand threads, traditionally you cut from the head stock to the tail stock. So, the chuck turns in the normal direction, but the tool moves from left to right, away from the chuck. As you say, you have to reverse the direction of the lead screw. 

The pins in the nut for the Super, are 3/16" in diameter, 1/8" long. The reach rod fork can be "sprung" such that it will not come off the pins. It does not need to be any fancier than that. I believe I pressed the pins into the nut block, along with a drop of Loctite. The nut should be made of bronze, not brass. Bronze will wear much better. 

Attached is a photo of some of the small boring bars I have. They are made from solid HSS tool blank. These take a bit of time to make. The one in the front, with the red layout dye, is the one I cut the internal thread for the nut. The round piece of brass is my "proof" or test nut, to see if I could make the nut. You can just see into the nut that the thread is left handed, you can also see where the two entry points are for the thread. 

To cut the thread for the nut, you start with the tool inside the nut and cut on the way out, toward the tail stock. A diual indicator is handy to know where your reference points are. You do not want any distractions while cutting the nut. As you get towards the end, you can only test the screw in the nut after a pass is made on each thread.  So, a single pass, involves two cuts, then test fit the screw. By making the screw first, you will get the idea.

I made the screw first. I measured the thread using the three wire method, as obviously, I did not have a test nut! The pitch diameter for the double lead thread, is the same as a single lead. There are thread pitch diameter calculators on the web and will also suggest what diameter wires to use. I used to do it the old fashioned way, but the online calculator is so much easier. If you get to this point, I can post the numbers if you are interested.

As for posting my own thread, I probably will not. Don't have enough time, although I do have a few friends on a mailing list that I occasionally send updates on my locomotive build. If you have questions about your build, I will be happy to post a few photos or comments as time permits.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 15, 2017)

Finished the reversing arm and screw assembly to a slightly
improved finish.Davids quality has made me feel guilty.The assembly
works well will improve the finish when everything else is connected up
A dozen small carbide slot/end mills arrived from China so will
now drop back to finish the cylinders which will then allow pinning the 
piston rods etc and lots of pins to make and a few more levers etc


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## Buchanan (Nov 16, 2017)

I am really enjoying this build, it is taking shape fast and looks real good.  When making nuts for difficult threads, I have cut the male thread an inch or two longer, or cut a second identical male thread and made a tap out of the extra length. To get the tap hard enough, I just case harden the tap portion and it works really well. To make the tap, turn a slow taper on the end of the thread and flute it with a ball nose end mill. Don't worry too much about small burs in the threads as they snap off when the tap starts cutting and also give a little clearance.  I also file a little relief on the tapered portion after fluting. These taps work well in brass or bronze and not to badly in mild steel and cast iron. They are good for a quite a few holes.  Buchanan


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## bazmak (Nov 16, 2017)

Thank you for your comments Buchanan,if the thread is 1/4"
then i could use silver steel for the tap,its something i have never done
so it would be an interesting exercise.Priority at the moment is to hopefully get this loco running on air,it would be a major achievement.I have gone as far in 3mths as i did in 3 years on Heilan Lassie.I am not rushing but have more available hours and i have made/bought a lot of tooling i never had before
Heilan Lassie was a 3 cylinder in 3 1/2"g and i made the cylinders and valve
with just the Myford lathe and a vertical slide so i am looking forward to finishing the cylinders etc with mill and DRO. Start tomorrow


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## bazmak (Nov 16, 2017)

All this talk about screw cutting 2 start LH threads has peaked my interest
David (builder 01) you made ,ground down a piece of hss and cut the nut
i admire your skill
After your comment Buchanan i realized you were the builder of THAT CLOCK
which i have followed with awe
It got me thinking about making a tap from silversteel or a cutter for making the nut.In the near future i may try both ways.One thought i had was to turn
down a piece of 1/4" silver steel and single point cut 2 or 3 threads the dia could then be reuced to the half line like a D bit and the various clearances milled
before hardening. 2 threads could then be cut at once with a no of passes ??
Any comments would be welcome. Meanwhile i am going out to the shed
with fingers crossed to finish the cylinders Regards barry


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## Builder01 (Nov 16, 2017)

Hi Bazmak,

Thank you for the kind words. 

If you are gong to make a tap, why not make it like a regular form of tap. Why would a D bit be better for cutting internal threads? A D bit seems to work well as a straight reamer, but, a tap? Maybe I have misunderstood you.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 17, 2017)

Instead of having to grind an accurate single point tool
then screw cutting a 2 start thread,why not single point a 2 start thread
before grinding as a D bit etc prior to hardening.In theory you would be 2 point cutting and the thread form would be more accurate the a hand ground single
point tool.I used the same principle to make 3 tooth gear hob which i used to cut gears well


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## bazmak (Nov 17, 2017)

A good hard days work.Machined all the ports with a solid carbide 4mm slot cutter.Driiled and tapped and connected up the exhaust passage. The steam passages are called for as 9/64 x 1/2" by chain drilling and needle file
Not easy i set up at the correct angle and drilled 4 holes 3mm dia.Drill tried to run and rather than risk breaking it i decided to mill.My new 4mm cutters
had 4mm shanks and were long enough to go full depth of 25mm.However took my time and great care and finished one 3 more to go.By positioning the 
slot just right produced a nice curved inlet to the cylinder and with clearance to 
be machined on the end covers it should work well.Steam passages are better
slightly oversize for inlet and exhaust or so i have been led to believe


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## Builder01 (Nov 17, 2017)

Hi Bazmak,

For your "two point" cutter, you won't know until you try. It will probably work. Although. you will be removing twice as much material at a time versus a singe point cutter. Hopefully, in bronze, it won't be a problem.

Progress on the steam ports and cylinder face looks great! 

David


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## Buchanan (Nov 17, 2017)

Here are a few photos of home made taps. The smaller, around 1/4 inch and down I use silver steel. Any thing larger I use mild steel and case harden. 
Fluting is not very critical at all.  When using silver steel, temper a little more than you would for a cutter. Almost starting to go light purple, rather than pale straw, otherwise it will be rather brittle. You can get a bit of an idea of the color in the photos.  With case hardening (torch and case hardening powder. 4 or 5 minuets) there is no tempering to worry about and you have a tough core. That split tap was made adjustable with a brass wedge
because it came out undersized. Possible with case hardening. The only problem with case hardening is that if you want to sharpen the tap you have to re case harden. With the lead screw  on the lathe, my Dad left the tap attached to the end of the lead screw so that when the nut wears out again he knows where the tap is. The new nut is a cylinder that is soft soldered into the old nut body for easy replacement. you can see that it is longer than the original. I am enjoying this build, keep it up.


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## bazmak (Nov 17, 2017)

I have never seen a slit tap before,i assumed it worked ok
As for hardening i had in mind to just harden and not temper
but i suppose for cutting brass/bronze the temper would be good
for small light cutters i did nit think brittle would be a disadvantage ?
Tell me how you find time to show an interest in anything else except
that marvelous timepiece.I have always assumed that really small threads
for clocks are not cut but formed.Do you use small commercial BA or
is there other threads ?


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## Buchanan (Nov 17, 2017)

The split tap worked fine. Knock in the wedge till it cut the thread big enough. 
Small taps just break to easily when glass hard.  I have far to many interest for my own good and there is never enough time.  I use metric threads for the clock, a set of swiss taps ad dies from 1.2 mm down to 0.3. i use down to 0.5 mm quite often.  Smaller than that, you have to hold your breath for too long when you use them to get any enjoyment out of the job! http://cdn.homemodelenginemachinist.com/images/smilies/confused.gif

Cutting small threads is a mix of cutting and deforming. 
The taps have no flutes, just a flat on each side, there is some swaf. Hole size is fairly important. 
The tap in the photo was made by a friend and it has 3 flats and is basically triangular, it cuts very well.


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## Builder01 (Nov 17, 2017)

That tap makes the 1/4"-20 double lead thread look giant! Nice work!

David


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## bazmak (Nov 17, 2017)

What tap,i can only see the match.First few days of my apprentice ship
a common tale was that the USA had made a S/S tube the dia of a human
hair(about 5 thou) and sent it over as a sample of their precision.As the story went the Brits sent it back tapped and fitted with a screw


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## Builder01 (Nov 17, 2017)

Good one Bazmak!

David


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## bazmak (Nov 17, 2017)

Just had a pleasant few hrs in the shed and finished the cylinders steam passages etc.I am now ready to start building every thing back up so please DAVID keep an eye on me and let me know when i am doing something incorrectly,as i am now in uncharted territory.Never got to this stage in the past
Although with Heilan Lassie i did part build the boiler and finished the smokebox etc a lot was cosmetic for my own satifaction.I never got far with coupling/conn rods,linkages etc and have no idea of timing etc.At the same time im getting familiar with what order to assemble etc and what can be left as sub assemblies.Knowing what order to put things back saves a lot of wasted effort.My plan of attack is to fit just the driving wheels


















 for min resistance while 
i make and fit all the linkages etc to the front side only.Reversing gear etc
Any parts yet to be made i make and fit as i go,so i can find and rectify and problem areas


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## Builder01 (Nov 18, 2017)

Lookin' good Bazmak! I will follow closely, I'm sure you will be fine. Once you have the motion plate and guide bars attached to the the rear cylinde cover, it is possible to remove the cylinder and motion plate as one assembly. You only have to remove the big pin in the crosshead, the connection to the lifting arm and radius rod and the connection to the return crank at the bottom of the expansion link. Then you only need to remove the screws that hold the motion plate to the frame and the screws that hold the cylinder to the frame.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 18, 2017)

Thanks Dave thats very helpful.Looking hot outside,im taking the wife for 
a sunday lunch


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## Builder01 (Nov 19, 2017)

Also forgot to mention, you have to remove the steam line to the chest and the exhaust! (small detail!). By the way, on the Super, the main steam in and exhaust are flanged and bolted to the cylinders. I think the drawings for the Simplex show them as screwed. I don't know if it is too late for you to consider this or not.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 21, 2017)

Thanks Dave,i havent thought of that aspect yet,but i have drilled and tapped the cylinders 1/4"bsp. (only suitable tap and die set i had). May be able to incorporate std comm. compression fittings ? or screw a flged conn to the cylinders to bring the flged conn inboard of the frames. Near future thoughts
I have made a no of silver steel pins and made a couple more lever arms
as i start to assemble the near side.Realised i had made 2 reversing arms when i only need one. Made a temp/adjusting eccentric rod to conn everything up
and getting everything turning over.Some pins i may remake 
/redesign where the metric nyloc nuts look a little bulky. Waiting for the arrival of some taper pins so i can finalise some conns and hopefully some advice
from Dave the builder 01 on sequence of ops. Weather is warming up so i am slowing down


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 21, 2017)

Very nice looking reverse set-up Bazmak. Looks a fair bit larger than the one I just did.---Brian


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## bazmak (Nov 21, 2017)

Thanks Brian,hats off to Stephenson to think it up.Now its all linked up i can 
see how it all works.Just the right size for my eyes and sense of touch
anything smaller i would have struggled with. Good progress with only 3 months almost behind me,i am amazed at the progress i have made
Retired with a mill and DRO sure does make a diiference


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 21, 2017)

Yes Bazmak--People always go nuts about how quickly I do my projects. Well, yes---If you don't have to get up and go to work somewhere every day, you can accomplish a great deal in a short time.


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## Builder01 (Nov 21, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Thanks Brian,hats off to Stephenson to think it up.



Bazmak, I think this reversing system was invented by Mr, Walschaert. The Stephenson system uses two eccentrics, one for forward and the other for reverse with a slide block link between the two. The Walschaert system uses the expansion link and radius rod to set the slide valve.

Perhaps you meant something else.

In any case,  yes, you are really moving along! Good work, you will be running on air in no time at all. I think all you need is a way to get air into both steam chests at the same time. It took me 9 months to get running on air, but, I am not retired.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 21, 2017)

Thanks David,just showing the extend of my ignorance.I am struggling at the moment to understand how to set the slide valves.I am waiting for some taper pins to arrive to pin any parts  that require removal at times.I have pinned
the reversing arm to the weighshaft with a roll pin.The arm is vertical with the 
reverser at midpoint.Can i now taper pin the the lifting arm at 90o and horizontal ? Can you ease me thru the valve setting and what i should and should not be doing. Regards barry


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## pp2076 (Nov 21, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Thanks David,just showing the extend of my ignorance.I am struggling at the moment to understand how to set the slide valves.I am waiting for some taper pins to arrive to pin any parts  that require removal at times.I have pinned
> the reversing arm to the weighshaft with a roll pin.The arm is vertical with the
> reverser at midpoint.Can i now taper pin the the lifting arm at 90o and horizontal ? Can you ease me thru the valve setting and what i should and should not be doing. Regards barry


Do a search for Keith Appleton. He has done a heap of videos that explain exactly what to do.
In a nutshell you need to adjust the slide valve so it uncovers the inlet ports equally at either end of the stroke, then adjust the linkage so it admits steam just before TDC of the piston.


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## Builder01 (Nov 21, 2017)

Hi Bazmak,

I'm sure Mr. Walschaert won't mind, no problem!

Hmm...setting the valve gear by email. I will not be able to really do this via email, but, I can give you a few hints. It took me quite a while to get mine to where I was really satisfied. I ran the loco for months with the temporary eccentric rods as I fiddled with adjusting the valve gear.

The whole idea behind setting the valve gear, is to get 4 equal exhaust beats per revolution of the wheels. This is sort of the proof that things are set correctly. You want the valve to just start to crack open after the crank pin is at top dead center or bottom dead center. At least three things are adjustable and are all interactive. 

1. position of the return crank on the crank pin. (mine is still not yet pinned, just clamped!)
2. length of the eccentric rod. This length is apt to be slightly different on each side. 
3. position of the slide valve on the valve spindle

As you adjust these things, you must keep checking to see how far the valve is moving in forward and then reverse. You want the slide valve to move the same amount over the cylinder ports when in forward and reverse. This is hard to achieve, but, you can get very close. Every time I made more adjustments to my valve gear, it got better. It sounded better and ran smoother. Currently, it runs just a little better forward than reverse. If you must compromise, going forward is usually more important than reverse.

This is by no means the full treatment to setting the valve gear, this is only to get your mind set to do the job. If you have set a slide valve on a steam engine that only runs in one direction, that is easy. Locomotive valve gear, not so much! 

As for the lifting arm and weigh shaft arm, when the reversing screw is in the center of it's travel, the radius rod should be in the center of the expansion link and the lifting arm should be centered on the radius rod. The weight shaft arm should be about 90 degrees from the lifting arm. This will give the weight shaft arm about the same travel forward and aft as it pivots on the weigh shaft.

Ultimately, the reverser screw will provide a little more travel than you really need. You will eventually need to limit the travel of the nut block by putting a sleeve on the screw at each end to stop the block from going all the way to each the end of the screw.

The attached photo shows the lifting arm and weigh shaft arm. You can see they are about 90 degrees to each other. The radius rod happens to be all the way at the bottom of the expansion link. This is an old photo, I don't yet have the temporary eccentric rods installed.

Traditionally, the radius rod will be towards the bottom of the expansion link going forward, and at the top for going reverse. 

As I am typing I see someone has  suggested Keith Appleton. Yes, his videos are very good and will probably help much more than I. Be careful about having the slide valve let steam into the cylinder before top dead center. If you try to start the locomotive from a dead stop in this position, it will try to go in the wrong direction.

Having a problem posting the photo. Will try later.

David


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## goldstar31 (Nov 22, 2017)

I've mentioned my old friend before but Don L Ashton  has written and published extensively  and has a web site.

Of course, Don is also a world authority on things like tugboats and full size steam  locomotives .

Don writes from time to time on Model Engineering Clearing House forum.

Also is an accomplished musician and composed and arranged saxophone music. 

Great man and will go out of his way to help. 

N


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## pp2076 (Nov 22, 2017)

goldstar31 said:


> I've mentioned my old friend before but Don L Ashton  has written and published extensively  and has a web site.
> 
> Of course, Don is also a world authority on things like tugboats and full size steam  locomotives .
> 
> ...


If you google Don L Ashton all you get is rubbish about Mormons


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## The_Druid (Nov 22, 2017)

Try this URL Lads...
http://www.donashton.co.uk/html/profile.html
Dai.


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## bazmak (Nov 22, 2017)

Thank you all,i have printed out Davids post and also Don Ashtons input
will give some heavy reading.Will pin it up up in the shed and use as the bible
for trying to sort out the timing.Will post as i go so any comments /advice will be most welcome. Although i would class myself as a moderate model engineer
i am a complete newbie to this,so bear with me. Regards barry


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## Builder01 (Nov 23, 2017)

Here's the photo I was trying to post earlier. It may, or may not, be helpful at this point.
David


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## bazmak (Nov 23, 2017)

Thanks David,it does help.I spent a few hours playing about trying to get
my head around everything.Your advise and the photo help to give me a starting point.I need to be confident that things are near before i start to fine tune.Tell me what determines the full F and R of the screw adjuster. I checked the valve travel which is about 1/2" in F and R and about 1/4" in the middle
My head started to spin after a while and i had a couple of stripdowns and rebuilds.Had a problem with 1 or 2 conns binding.It gave me a lot of problems 
until i found them and rectified.Then to take a break i started on the smokebox saddle,the GM casting had arrived. Nothing like the drawing but i can make it fit Ok. The SBox dia is 5" and i will machine in the mill with a boring headHeilan lassie i  did in the lathe with a inline boring bar.Not having studied the drgs fully yet i dont know if i am building a Simplex or a super Will post my progress or lack in the next few days


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## Charles Lamont (Nov 23, 2017)

Initial setting is in mid-gear, ie, when the die block is positioned in line with the expansion link pivots so that radius rod does not move when you turn the engine over. In this position, set the valves for equal port opening at each end.

That is your basic position. You can tweak it a little bit by ear, on air and later under load on steam, to give whatever best compromise of running at different cut-offs and in forward and reverse that you like.   

All the discussion we had recently about timing Stephenson's valve gear does not
apply to Walschearts, the designer did it for you already.


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## Builder01 (Nov 24, 2017)

Hi Barry,

All the suggestions give so far are good. I think you mentioned you have the Simplex construction book. The book says full gear travel is 9/16". or .562". This is the maximum needed movement of the slide valve. The same goes for the Super Simplex. The full movement of the reverser may give you more than the 9/6", but, don't let the radius rod sit hard in the bottom or top of the expansion link. The Super simplex says there should be .020" of lead on the slide valve. But, I have minimized this on my loco to nearly zero. Lead is good on a full size loco, but, is not necessary on a miniature and can make starting from a dead stop sometimes difficult. My loco starts easily with the wheels in any position and once going, it notches up quite nicely.

To get full valve movement, I had to spend a bit of time with Swiss files on the radius rod and expansion link making adjustments to get enough clearance to ensure nothing would bind with the link and radius rod in any position. The die block must be able to get to the extreme ends of the link and not bind. The link, as it swings must not bump or bind in the radius rod. Also. while turning the wheels to witness everything, the axle blocks should be in the normal running position in the horn blocks. On the Simplex, you should shim the axle blocks up 3/32". Put the shim, or spacer, between the axle block and the hornstays. Of course the loco must be lifted up on blocks while turning the wheels gently by hand. Be sensitive to binding or tight spots anywhere.

As for the timing of the slide valves, they should start to uncover the admission port just after the crank pin has reached top dead center, or, exactly at top dead center. If opens before, this pre-admission of steam, will introduce lead. In a small locomotive, it is not necessary and can even be detrimental as described by Don Ashton. Others may disagree and you can do what you feel works best for you.

You will discover that the position of the return crank and the length of the eccentric rod are inter active. This can be very frustrating, but, with enough experimenting, you will see what effects what and in which direction. A good setting in forward, will usually disturb the setting in reverse. You will probably have to compromise a bit. As you get closer to good reverse and forward setting, the Simplex gear can be set so it is almost perfect. 

David


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 24, 2017)

Bazmak--welcome to my world. Now you can see why a week ago I was running round in circles and biting myself. Timing these reversing set-ups ain't for sissies.--Brian


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## bazmak (Nov 24, 2017)

coming from a person like yourself with far more experience of valve timing
to an old fart like me with no experience then i must concure.
They say that the human brain has a finite capacity for knowledge and when filled like a bucket of water overflows as you keep learning.It is dangerous
to try and learn too much when you get older.You learn something new and forget something you once knew.One day i will forget where i live.
I am receiving lots of good input and sifting thru it to try and pick out what i need.In the meantime to give my head a rest i machined and fitted the
smokebox saddle casting which has just arrived


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 24, 2017)

Baz--Very nice work. As far as there being an age related limit to learning new stuff, I'm not sure I agree with that.  I still learn new stuff every week. In ways I believe that learning new stuff enables you to learn more new stuff. Keep in mind, I only started machining as a hobby about seven years ago. Prior to that, the last time I ran a lathe or a mill was in the mid 1960's during my apprenticeship, and then only for a very brief period of time on one of my "shop rotations". My mother is 97 years old, and I can see that she is beginning to slow down a bit. However I think that is because she is in an "old folks home" where she is cared for totally and isn't required to do a lot of creative thinking.


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## bazmak (Nov 24, 2017)

Made a start on the timing.Of the info that i have received i downloaded\Don Ashtons write up on Walschaerts Gear. It is  very interesting read unfortunately
my bucket is full so i will only keep it as reference.
David (builder 01) is being very helpful with lots of info and photos to help
me get to grips with everything,and the information will be invaluable when fine tuning the timing running under air or steam.Meanwhile my initial thoughts were
to just simply try and set everything near enough initial just for checking hand turnover.In my mind i thought to start with the screw adjuster in mid gear,set everything near enough and centralise the slide valve then repeat for forward and reverse. Glad to get the advise from Charles Lamont which i think is confirming my thoughts.Thank you Charles,that is the way i am heading
with a series of photos as i proceed.Anybody please stop me if i am going wrong


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## bazmak (Nov 24, 2017)

Hi Brian,i wasnt saying that age is detrimental to learning,only that when the bucket gets full at our age,when we learn something new then we have to forget something to make room. Learning something new like valve timing
and we may forget some thing important,like where we live.Its ok for the young uns like Charles and Dave.their buckets are not full yet


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## Charles Lamont (Nov 24, 2017)

Yup - it should just crack the port open at each end in mid-gear. That is your 'lead', the amount of port opening at dead centres, whatever the position of the reversing lever. With Walschearts gear the direct motion from the crosshead via the anchor link and combination lever provides the lap and lead motion.

Just to confuse you a bit more, if the engine were a piston-valve job, with the 'inside admission' normal for that type of valve, the connections at the top of the combination lever are reversed so that the valve moves in the same direction as the piston, instead of the opposite way.

I don't qualify as young.


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## bazmak (Nov 25, 2017)

I did not think you were young,just my tongue in cheek humour
From what i have read in your posts you seem to have the wisdom of Solomon
Glad to hear i am on the right track,please keep watching me. Tell me are you mostly theory or have you made a few of these beautiful machines


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## Builder01 (Nov 25, 2017)

Hi Bamak,

Jumping in and starting to turn the wheels by hand will teach you more than you realize. Obviously, the steam must push the piston when the crank pin is the correct position relative to the wheels. Adjusting one part or another and then carefully observing the results will also teach you what is going on. The more I did this, the less I needed any written instructions on valve timing. 

Also, getting air to the steam chests and listening can be helpful as you listen for four equal exhaust beats.

Fortunately, locomotives are, in general, very forgiving. Even before I optimized my valve gear, it work pretty well. The most poorly adjusted valve gear will usually still work and get the job done. I'm sure yours will be just fine and probably work quite well.

Yes, overall position of everything looks good so far. The expansion link looks like it may be tipped forward a bit for mid-gear, this may be due to the eccentric rod not adjusted for length just yet.

Is there much lead when you move the reverser all the way forward or aft? Perhaps its too early to make this a fair test.

Good work on the machine work on the saddle. I had to make mine 1/4" narrower due to having to re-gauge my loco to 4-3/4". I machined the radius using a boring bar between centers on the lathe, a boring head works just fine as you have done.

David


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## Charles Lamont (Nov 25, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Tell me are you mostly theory or have you made a few of these beautiful machines



I have been playing with steam engines since I was given a Mamod engine at the age of seven, and have had a workshop and lathe since my teens. I have a degree in mechanical engineering and am now retired. 

Most of what I have made seems to be tools, including a lot of George Thomas stuff, and I am a slow worker anyway. I have a box under the bench with almost complete wheels and cylinders for a Simplex which have not been touched since I decided the second pair of frames was also scrap, about 40 years ago. I also made the reversing screw, and nut, for which I made a 1/4" x 20 tpi, left-hand, square-thread tap. I said I make tools.

The most recently completed major tooling project was a camshaft grinder for the ET Westbury Seagull petrol engine that I have bored this forum with on numerous previous occasions. The write-up is way behind, but I have put a recent shot showing most of it at the bottom of: http://www.charleslamont.me.uk/Seagull/ignition.html

Most of the work I have done on steam locomotives has been at 12 inches to the foot, including a taking major part in this ongoing project: http://www.catchmewhocan.org.uk/


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## bazmak (Nov 26, 2017)

Thank you Charles for your info,catch me if you can looks very interesting
The ornate balustrade looks good.The last few years of my working life was designing steel stairs and balustrading.
Thank you for tour input Dave.Yes my thoughts were to build and disassemble etc until the working become clearer
I have repeated the process for full F and full rev,making mods etc and improving and tight spots. Everything looks ok and the ports are covered and uncovered at approx the right time so i am happy for now knowing things are near enough until i can run with air.I am now repeating the process with the farside with a long list of thinks to do and look out for.


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## JCSteam (Nov 26, 2017)

It really is starting to look like a loco now. The speed at which your building is more than impressive. I'd be struggling with the frames still, but that's just me.


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## Builder01 (Nov 26, 2017)

Hi Barry,

Hopefully, attached is the drawing of the eccentric rod for the Super Simplex. As you can see, the center to center distance is something to be determined as the valve gear is set. The Simplex was drawn in 1967 and the Super Simplex was drawn in 1989. Martin Evans learned that you could not exactly specify the eccentric rod length. 

David


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## bazmak (Nov 26, 2017)

Thank you David.3.822" is a long way from 3.9375" as specified on my drg
I am no where near running on air yet and if the eccentric rod centres are critical and are best determined when fine tuning the valve settings then i
will have to make another temp/adjustable rod and have one on each side
until i can run on air. There is too much work in the actual rods to be wasted
I assumed this was the case from what you had done and i am pleased you have confirmed it. Onwards and upwards. Regards barry


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## Builder01 (Nov 26, 2017)

Hi Barry,

Yes, I certainly did not want to make the eccentric rods twice, which is one reason (as you have guessed correctly!) for waiting so long to make the final version of them. Running with adjustable rods is nothing to be ashamed of. I did it for months at my club track under full steam! My center to center was even a bit longer than specified by the "estimated" dimension on the Super Simplex drawing.

By the way, a "quicker"  way to make the eccentric rods, is to silver solder a 1/4" piece of steel onto the 1/8" thick rod to help form the forked end. This way, you don't have to make the entire rod from "the solid". (What a pain!)

The different center to center dimension between the Simplex and the Super Simplex is not really the point I was trying to make. No doubt, they are different between the two models, because Martin Evans changed the position of the weight shaft on the Super in reference to the expansion link trunnions.

The important detail to notice, was the "*Check on job" message that Martin put on the drawing, with the understanding that this distance needs to be determined by what is needed, not what the dimension is on the drawing.  The "check on job" note, is not on the old 1967 Simplex drawings. 

Keep up the good work!

David


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## bazmak (Nov 28, 2017)

After a couple of days in the 90s i have made and assembled the motion to the far side.All turns over well and with valves at both sides the timing makes your head spin. Thanks to help and info from David and Charles.I followed Davids advice and made a second temp/adjustable eccentric rod to get everything somewhere near.As i understand it the valve travel should be  .560" in F and rev and about .25" in mid gear
I took the following readings of the valve travel
Nearside is .530" in F and .550" in R Midgear is .260" so somewhere near
Farside is .430" in F and .370" in R with midgear .240" so needs adjusting
When the weather cools down i can start playing about.Its set to hit 100oF
today which means 120 in my shed.
Inbetween the motions i have started to play about with exhaust conns
As David pointed out the screwed fixings originally designed cause problems with assy and he showed me his version of the redesigned bolted conns
I had already tapped the cylinders 1/4" bsp (.518") so thought i would try and incorporate comm screwed/compression fittings.The smallest i could get was 3/8"bsp to 1/2" copper so will try to machine these down to fit,if not
successful then i will think again before also doing the inlet to suit a compressed air conn.All i have now i think is to make and fit the cap glands
to fit the steam chest and reduce in length and finish the vave spindles
Meanwhile its turn the aircon on and pick up a book.NOT Martin Evans


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## Builder01 (Nov 28, 2017)

Hi Barry,

I will have to see how your fittings will be assembled. It is not clear how everything will be screwed together. If you were to ever need to remove a cylinder, or steam chest, I'm not sure how it would be done. I will follow along and see what you have in mind.

I made my connections from 1/2" copper tube silver soldered into a Y shape, and flanges silver soldered on the ends of each side. The screws go through the flanges and into the cylinder castings. The screws are removable from the inside, as I have has to do this many times!

I think I have sent this photo before, but attached is a shot of my steam supply and exhaust piping. All joints are silver soldered.

David


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## bazmak (Nov 29, 2017)

Well the temp has been around 100o F for a few days.Too hot to work
but i managed to get in a couple of hours.Not the weather for heavy thinking
on the valve timing so decided to carry on with my idea for the exhaust
Machined down 2 fittings to screw into the cylinder and pass thru the frames
These can stay assembled to the cylinder.Using the last of my silver solder
i partially finished the steam pipes.I am not happy with my workmanship
so if it all works i may remake at a later date.Trying to modify std comm.
fittings was not really worth the effort.It may be better to make everything
again including the compression  fittings.The last 10" of my silver solder has been in my tool box for many years so have ordered 2 sticks at $20 each


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## Builder01 (Nov 30, 2017)

Hi Barry,

That should work okay as long as you are able to get a wrench onto the compression nut with everything else in place. Are you going to do the steam supply in a similar manner?

David


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## bazmak (Nov 30, 2017)

Hi David,the male part stays on the cylinder and can be drawn thru the frame
the female  should be easily accessable for a spanner. I can however reduce the size slightly or make new small ones.Havent fully planned everything yet
if you follow any of my threads,like the model shaper you will see its fly by the seat of your pants.The inlet is smaller,1/8" bsp not 1/4" bsp and the supply can probably be reduced in size for both comp. air and steam.If comm fittings are too difficult to obtain or access
is difficult then i can make smaller unions.The basic principle of 2 fixed male parts and 2 comp. fittings can still apply.Rain has arrived and the weather cooled down so may get stuck in to valve timing


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## Herbiev (Nov 30, 2017)

Hi Baz. Brighton steel used to sell 45% sticks for around $12   Not sure if that's still the case but could be worth a call


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## bazmak (Dec 1, 2017)

Weather has cooled down to the low 20oc so spent a few hours in the shed
playing about with the valve timing,finding tight spots,disassemble and rectify,refit etc.Turns over well with one tight spot (coupling rods i think)
Drilled and tapped the steam chests,made and fitted the 2 cap glands
Finished the valve spindles etc etc Also tacked the exhaust together and 
fitted removed etc.Works well but will probably remake a bit more compct
and better workmanship I need to look at the inlet next


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## Builder01 (Dec 1, 2017)

Hi Barry,

Looks good! I now understand how your exhaust and steam pipes will assemble. Should work just fine. The fitting that screws into the side of the cylinder may eventually need some sort of high temp sealer on the threads. Is this a straight thread, or, tapered like a pipe thread?

David


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## Builder01 (Dec 2, 2017)

Hi Barry,

As promised, here are the drawings of the axle pump that goes into the Super Simplex. I do not know if it will fit into the same space for the Simplex. I do not seem to be able to attach photos to PMs.

David


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## bazmak (Dec 5, 2017)

Thanks Herbie,but brighton no longer sell silver solder
Thanks David,the bsp threads are parallel and if needed will use teflon tape
The feed pump details are the same as my drg but i also have an additional
drg 6a showing a double acting pump.Will stick with this one,did you build it up or is there a casting ?
I was not happy with comm flare/olive comp fitting to copper so thought i would try something different for the inlet using the ngarden water hose
sealing method.I bought a 1/4" bsp T and made the rest of the fittings from brass.Works well and more compact will look at redoing the exhaust
Made a start on the hooks just for looks but cant understand why the 8x5mm
section is 13/16" long to go thru the 5 thk beam.Is it just a nut on the back
with free movement or is it spring loaded.I dont have any details
Also giving thoughts to the smokebox and 5" dia tube is unavailable here
in mild steel or brass.May have to use 140mm dia and try to spring it down
Did it often many years ago not difficult with youth,oxy/acet etc,but now ?
No choice will have to give it a go or machine from solid


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## Builder01 (Dec 5, 2017)

Hi Barry,

Straight threads on the steam pipes, hmmm... This will be a potential leak point if there is no shoulder to screw against. The lock nut shown on the drawing will help prevent leak when installed with a little thread sealer. It looks like your steam supply pipe will include a lock nut. Perhaps the exhaust pipe will not be a problem.

The smoke box is usually rolled and then silver soldered. It's typically made from brass, steel will rust pretty badly on the inside in this application. The inside of the smoke box is turned to fit the boiler, or an adapter ring can be machined to fit the smoke box to the boiler. 

My axle pump was made from a bronze casting, but, you can easily make it from a solid block. I have made the hand pump from the solid as it is almost made exactly like the axle pump. The axle pump I have shown actually is double acting. Or, more precisely, 1-1/2 acting! The pump delivers when moving the ram in both directions. Just a little less in one direction than the other.

On the steam supply pipe, don't forget to include a place to mount the steam oil check valve at the bottom of the T. You don't have to make the valve yet, just a threaded hole that it can screw flat into when you are ready. Meanwhile, you can just make a threaded plug to screw into the hole. Perhaps you can silver solder something onto the bottom of your T to fit the steam check valve on. Might have been easier to just start with a block of copper or bronze as shown in the drawing.

David


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## bazmak (Dec 9, 2017)

For a no of reasons i wanted to make the smoke box next.Nothing available at 5" dia in either m/st or brass.As David said the way to go is to roll a brass strip
However difficult with no rollers or welding gear.Option were to make from solid
or reduce a larger dia steel pipe.Once upon a time it would be easy peasy with
the correct tooling,but all i had was a hammer and G clamps.
I bought a piece of 51/2" dia x 3/16" wall galv. pipe. The thicker wall i had in mind to be able to turn down after reducing but decided it would be too stiff to form so turned down to 1/8" wall before reworking.Happy with the result but
would have been a lot easier with rollers.I can tin the damaged internal galv
with soft solder at a later date


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## bazmak (Dec 14, 2017)

To finish the smokebox i ordered the castings for the door and ring in GM
No castings available for the SB/boiler ring so decided to try and make myself
Not much equipment or heat but a lot of barely remembered nouse
I bought a length of 3/4" x 1/4" brass for $20 and with a quote nof over $60 for rolling i decided to give it go myself.Nothing ventured ,nothing gained
Tried annealing a small section and forming with a mallet but the annealing
left a brittle zone which just snapped off.I had sufficient heat in my small torch
to make the brass almost plyable so made a former and pulled it round
Not enough heat to silver solder so i made and fitted a joining plate
The rolling was accurate enough for everything to clean up well and all i have to do now is to rivit it to the smokebox before finish turning. Hard work
but i am well satisfied


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## Builder01 (Dec 14, 2017)

Hi Baz,

Do you have the boiler barrel to try for fitting to the ring? For connecting the boiler to the ring, you might consider using button head screws instead of rivets. It will be handy to be able to take this joint apart.

David


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## bazmak (Dec 14, 2017)

Thanks Dave,i dont have the boiler barrel so will turn and leave oversize for now.The book says to make the SB to barrel a screwed conn.With Heilan Lassie
i used a no of brass csk screws so as to clear the lagging.Will do the same here
I wanted to finish the smokebox for a little bling.Have family coming over for Xmas,so they will recognise it.Merry Xmas to you and family. Regards barry


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## Builder01 (Dec 14, 2017)

Hi Baz,

Well, thank you so much! Merry Xmas to you and yours as well! We have about 6 inches of snow on the ground right now, it is beautiful. The locals folks hate it, but, I love it. My thought is, if you don't like it, you should move!

Okay, screwed connection for the smoke box to boiler, good.

David


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## bazmak (Dec 15, 2017)

Rivitted the smokebox ring in posn and turned the spigot
to just oversize for conn to the boiler barrel,which will be a screwed conn
Waiting for delivery of the smokebox and ring castings in the meantime will 
think about the chimney and blastpipe assy.Similar to what i did for Heilan Lassie


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## Charles Lamont (Dec 15, 2017)

I am sorry, and don 't usually do this, but this one drives me mad. They are* rivets*, with an *e*.


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## bazmak (Dec 16, 2017)

Finished RIVETTING for now so while i am awaiting the smokebox door
i decided to partially machine the door fixings, Dart and handles etc
With Heilan Lassie i recall silver soldering taper pins to form the arms
This one is a little larger and easier so i decided to machine from solid stainless steel,even though its not easy drilling and tapping small sizes.It all worked out well,nice and strong even if the single m3 tapped hole took me 20mins 
using 3 taps with care.No breakage.The dart can be finished to suit the door


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## bazmak (Dec 18, 2017)

The smokebox ring and door castings arrived so i went out to the shed
to start machining.Quick once over with a measuring stick confirmed they were the wrong ones.Quick telecon with the supplier and i posted them back to the supplier.What to do,i looked at my must to do list and made this little gem
Cant remember where i saw it but i knew it was a must do.A simple spring loaded spindle lock for the sieg benchmill.Couple of blocks of alum,fixed the the 2 existing m5 tapped holes that hold the perspex guard and a simple spring loaded pin made from a HT cap screw.Works a treat,pictures tell the story


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## Builder01 (Dec 18, 2017)

Hi Baz,

Nice bit of tooling for your drill press.

Have you been able to get a fitting for compressed air to connect to the steam supply to the cylinders?

David


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## bazmak (Dec 18, 2017)

Hi Dave,seen a few fittings that will do but wanted to finish the smokebox first
to give me an idea of congestion.Will have to borrow my neibours compressor again or buy a small one.My problem is lack of space.My shed is only 5 x 14ft
I do have a double garage as part of the house with double doors to the living area.Have a pool table,table tennis and darts etc with lots of book cases
Dont want to get involved with the mess and noise indoors.but can use it as storage for a small wheelaway compressor etc
Before i can i need a full strip down to clear tight spots and fit gaskets and  O rings etc.So its a major excercise to do in the new year
when all the festivities are over and guests have left


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## Builder01 (Dec 19, 2017)

Hi Baz,
I remember when my loco was close to running on air, I did everything I could to make that happen as soon as possible. I only worked on those things that would bring the loco closer to running on air. All of the glands are filled with graphite string, no O rings. Gaskets were made as the cylinders and steam chests were made to make sure the spacing between the parts would be okay. Cylinder covers are sealed with RTV. Don't forget to add a tapped hole in the covers for a jacking screw to remove them. What you have done looks great so far, I understand you will do things in an order that makes the most sense for you.

David


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## bazmak (Jan 14, 2018)

Well festivities are over.Not the best holiday i have had.My son and family came over from the UK and brought the Flu.Everyone poorly and im still not well after
3 weeks.Daughter came over from Melbourne for the New Year and informed us 
that they had gone Vegan.So altogether not much eaten or drunk.Bad news is
that a lot of food was thrown out,good news is i have enough enough booze to last thru summer
Back to the smoke box saga.I sent the castings back telling the supplier they were incorrect,and after a few emails it was ascetained i was working to obsolete drawings.Castings were returned and MANY thanks to David (builder 01) for sending me the updated drawings.Had to make a new smokebox and remachine the smokebox saddle.Machined and fitted the ring and door.Finished the locking arms,dart and arm etc and well on the way to finishing the hinges etc so back to suare one.Temp has been hitting the 40o mark so too hot in the shed.Anyway i am back on line Happy New Year to everybody


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## The_Druid (Jan 14, 2018)

BAZMAK, Great work, keep it up.
  Sorry to hear that you all caught the &#8216;Flu over Christmas, but to lighten things? Did you know that our (UK) current &#8216;Flu epidemic (Which I also have) is called &#8220;Australian &#8216;Flu&#8221;, therefore your son was only &#8220;bringing it back&#8221;!


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## bazmak (Jan 14, 2018)

Yes i knew it was the Oz flu and that we sent it to them.I had the jabs last winter
and did not catch here. fortunately my wife and new grandson (4 mths) did not catch it
It has now turned into bronchitis so i am still struggling. I am just starting to get in the mood for the shed but the weather is heating up again


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## Builder01 (Jan 14, 2018)

Hi Barry,

Good to see you are trudging on! So sorry everyone got sick at your place! I hope everyone has recovered.

Carry on, looking good!

David


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## goldstar31 (Jan 14, 2018)

Glad to know the 'little one' missed the thing.

Me, still barking like a dog== after the so called Festivities. 

I finally took the advice of an old girl friend who apparently rubs her chest with Vick vapor rub.

Settled for my dwindling stocks  of Tiger Balm- but not on her chest. 

So its Burns Supper to be followed by the Chinese New Year to be followed by a week in the Dordogne and then a  week at something called Center Parks- the home of Robin Hood or something equally daft.

Somewhere I have to fit in the new 'toy'-- unless I get an another invite to more Haggis Country.


What's vegan? I was brought up in the war like the Chinese. If it doesn't;t poison you-- eat it.

Happy New Whatsit

Norm


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## bazmak (Jan 14, 2018)

Hi Norm,thats me barking like a dog.Went to Centre Parks in Sherwood forest
Really enjoyed it.Something for all ages.Went in winter with snow on the ground.Spent most days in the water world/dome with the kids but also went for nice 
quiet walks in the woods feeding the wildlife.Even grumpy old gits like us would
find it enjoyable.It great if the snow falls Enjoy


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## bazmak (Jan 14, 2018)

Well i have almost finished the second smokebox.I machined the ring and door
and fitted to the smokebox.The hardest part was trying to form the hinges from
1.5 x 5mm brass but no matter how i tried/annealed etc trying to form the brass around a 2.5mm dia pin was a no go.So i redesigned the hinge slightly
and machined from solid.Then had to form around the spherical door.Went well
looks good and most important works well.As good as a bought one


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## Builder01 (Feb 13, 2018)

Hi Baz,

I have not checked up on you in a while. Things are looking good! I like your smoke box and door. Very good! Looks like you decided to not machine the radius on the door front, left as raw casting?

David


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## bazmak (Feb 15, 2018)

Dont know about the door yet Dave.However i have decided to put the loco
on the back burner for now.I have reached the stage where to get it running
on air i need a full strip down clean ,check adjust etc before reasemble and 
fit gaskets and O rings etc.I dont have a compressor or room for one but
i may be able to borrow one.Then i have the major decisions on the boiler
I have the expertise but at my age lack the confidence and money,matls
tooling etc  + the other necessaries like oxy?
/acet, brazing hearth pickle bath etc. Will see how it goes.Meanwhile as the weather cools down i am starting
a few smaller projects from my list of to dne i have just posted on a cheap
toolpost grinder.


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## Builder01 (Feb 15, 2018)

Hi Baz,

Well, sorry to hear this information from you. I had a feeling it might go this way. I'm not sure why you would have to strip everything down to get it running on air. I assumed everything was adjusted as you went. If you don't have a compressor, or funds to complete, this is probably where it will remain. The boiler is a huge stumbling block and this is where most people stop. These facts cannot be changed. I see many, many, started chassis for sale and the original owner is long gone.

I wish you success with your tool post grinder.

David


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## mikelkie (Feb 19, 2018)

bazmak said:


> Made the frames,stretchers and beams and fully assembled
> Had enough rivits from many years ago but only temp fixings
> until i can collate a bolt list.Basically everything done thats on the first drawing
> Then i made the mistake of studying the rest of the drgs. Frightening.
> ...


I like what you've done so far, i built two Simplex myself, wonderful performers. I just had my next Super Simplex's frames lazy cut(laser cut)
in 71/4 in. Currently fabricating the cylinders from solid cast iron. Why not
go for Super Simplex? better performer. Will post pics soon.

Regards
Mike.


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## bazmak (Feb 19, 2018)

Look forward to it.Thanks for posting.The old drgs i have are for the simplex
But i ran into problems with the smokebox for which Dave helped me out
So any further orogress will be for the super.On hold for now next step will be getting to run on air and i am a little daunted with the thoughts of the boiler
both financial and expertise


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## Runner (Feb 23, 2018)

Hi,

I have just returned to this forum after a considerable time away and found you r thread which I have added to my favourites list. I am impressed by your workmanship and the innovation you apply to overcoming obstacles. The speed at which you have progressed the Simplex chassis is also commendable. I note that you have reached a crossroads in how you will proceed from here on in. In particular the making of the boiler. You have flagged age as a deterrent, but let me say that I am older than you and have made boilers for my 3 1/2" gauge Rob Roy and Black 5 Doris, the latter being near to the size required for your previous Heilan Lassie. Simplex boiler is larger but I should imagine well within your capabilities but requires Propane and Oxy-Acetylene particularly in the final stages. I am sure that you are aware that if you intend to run the locomotive on a club track that the boiler must be constructed to the AMBSC Code Part 1 Copper Boilers and that the design and construction be certified by a boiler inspector. This means joining a club since boiler inspectors are associated with a club and none as far as I know operate freelance. There are 4 clubs that operate in or close to Adelaide and a further 6 in South Australia. Happenstance I also live in Adelaide so we are near neighbours.

Brian


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## mikelkie (Feb 23, 2018)

Some work so far on 2 engines S/Simplex Hybrid in 71/4 in. & Hunslet in 5" (also hybrid)
The driving wheels obtained from another ME and was bored oversize hence the bushes
Good luck to us all
ME regards
Mike


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## Builder01 (Feb 23, 2018)

Seems like the documentation of a Simplex build other than Baz's, belongs in a new separate thread? Up to this point, this thread was about Baz's Simplex and other folks giving suggestions and help for his build. 

David


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## mikelkie (Mar 17, 2018)

Some progress. Valvegear parts


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## Builder01 (Mar 17, 2018)

Okay, it looks like mikelkie has decided to take over Baz's build thread with a 7-1/4" Super Simplex build. This is a pretty strange thing to do. I guess we'll just all go with it as it looks like the hijack is "Full Steam Ahead and" no body has even flinched! Most folks would have started their own build thread. Maybe we should just put all of the locomotive build posts into a single thread to save space.

David


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 17, 2018)

Mikelkie--It is considered rather rude to start posting a bunch of your pictures in someone elses thread. Obviously you are a very skilled builder. It would be much nicer if you start your own thread to show your build in.---Brian


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## bazmak (Mar 18, 2018)

Hi guys,i dont mind Mikelkie posting on my thread,it does keep it alive and shows people are still interested.However i agree it would be nice for him to start his own thread on his work on the 7 1/4" simplex and i for one would be very interested in following it Regards Barry


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## mikelkie (Mar 18, 2018)

There's no intention on my part to take over or to "hyjack" someones thread, just thought it may be good to revive
the enthusiasm shown by Bazmak. Will refrain from future posting on this thread. 
Mike


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## bazmak (Mar 18, 2018)

I hope you are going to post on your 7 1/4" simplex please regards vbarry


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## Mousetrap (Mar 19, 2018)

G'Day mikelkie. I would very much appreciate being able to follow your Simplex build and I am sure many others feel the same way. It is so helpful to us lesser skilled enthusiasts when such informative threads are available. Thank you, Dave


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## JCSteam (Mar 19, 2018)

Mike I would like to see how you go on building your two locos. So please start a thread on how you have gone about it. There is always more ways to machine the same item and I enjoying seeing different setups as well as seeing progress on different engines.


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## mikelkie (Mar 19, 2018)

Hi guys will follow up soon
Thanks for the interest 
regards 
Mike


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## bazmak (Jan 19, 2021)

I will reopen this thread.It does not seem like 21/2 yrs since i put the simplex on the backburner.In the intervening time 
i have bought/restored and sold 17 Myford lathes while watching the Simplex go rusty. However Myfords have been
in short supply and i have been busy looking for things to keep me busy.So i thought i would strip down and clean up
the Simplex,then decided to make a few more bits and pieces. As a time served sheetmetalworker i decided to make the cab/side tanks etc
Had to make do with hammer and dollies etc and made good use of my mini anvil.Its adds a bit of bling and starts to look more 
like a steam engine.Will make what i can to start and then strip down ,clean/adjust and try to get running on air


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## mikelkie (Mar 17, 2022)

Made a little progress since last reply, Don't know what to call it yet was suppose to be a Simplex in 7/ 1/4 but with almost simplex framework, non scaled wheels, American valvegear (Baker) SAR boiler and tender no side tanks and bunker and may be american cab. Perhaps a Complex? I was hooked by the smooth operation of the big engine NKP 765 after watching on youtube. All criticism wellcome. Unable to upload video being to large. but on youtube
https://youtu.be/GLkilcpQiil Apologies for my absence


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## mikelkie (Mar 18, 2022)

Looking good Bazmak, any work on the boiler yet?


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