# Elmer's #33 - Yet Another Mill Engine



## Sshire (Feb 1, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Cross HeadCase
Episode 1*

Ive yet to make a mill engine and,since its been nearly 24 hours since I finished the cross twin, and I have that extra flywheel casting





I usually build from the base up, so the base and sub base are first up. Dykemd (is that a word?) and marked out. My usual M.O. to prevent mental lapses.





Spot drilling, drilling and tapping followed. When I can, Ive been using spiral point or spiral flute taps for small holes. Less chance of the chip binding the tap.





So the base has all of the holes done. So then, Im looking at the plans and I see this.





A radiused slot??? I can usually figure out some way to do things but this one had me stumped. Im quite sure that everyone knows how to do this but me. I was just about to post a How do I do this? question on the forum when I thought about the shape and my slotting saws. Now, my thickest saw if .06 so thats not going to work, but, a 2.5 x .5 one would give me the width and the 1.25 radius. 
Ordered and received 2 days later. No way was I going to buy a $75 mandrel. Ive made mandrels for my slotting saws. I had some 7075 1.125 round bar and made this.





Since I have the headroom and I hate indicating the vise, I clamped an angle plate in the vise.
After some adjustments (%#*&*&&#!!), I got the part level enough.









With the Bridgeport in back gear and light cuts, I got my radiuses slot with a nice finish.









Then the sub base. Nothing but some drilling, two ¼ slots and a run with the face mill.










The first two parts done.





Pull up a chair. The fun never ends.


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## weez (Feb 2, 2014)

Great start Stan.  I look forward to following another of your excellent build logs.


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## vascon2196 (Feb 2, 2014)

Slow down!!!!


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## Sshire (Feb 2, 2014)

Hey Chris 
No time to slow down. 


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## Heffalump (Feb 3, 2014)

Stan - you are the man, thanks for bringing us something else! My breath is baited


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## barnesrickw (Feb 3, 2014)

What do you use for breath bait, 'cuz I gotta catch mine. Ba dum bump. 


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## Sshire (Feb 3, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 2
Crosshead Guides*

By now, if youve followed any of my builds, you know my feelings about Elmers sense of design. Not his engineering design, but his every part is square design.

Looking over the plans, I thought about an idea for the crosshead guides. My feelings are that Ill try an idea and if it works - excellent! If not - its another small piece of metal to add to the not quite right box.

After laying out both (identical parts) on a piece of brass, I had to clamp it up like this. If it started to chatter, Id lay it out on a larger piece and clamp it to the plate that I used a lot in the Cross Twin build.
Amazingly, no chatter and a good finish.





I did the layout so I could flip the part to machine the second copy. Butted the part against the stop, machined one part, flip, machined the other end.





I had laid out the part on a wider piece of brass so I could plunge and have support on both sides of the end mill. It seemed like a good idea.





Then ran the end mill in to remove the middle. This is the result.






Then Fettling with Oliver with a flat file and then a thin round one.









Then, both parts milled to length and to the correct height and then drilled.









Then back to Oliver to round the ends.





.1875 spacers parted off.





Here are all of the parts for the crosshead guides.





Assembled with temporary nuts and long studs. (4.5 threads above the nut.) Standard 4-40 nuts are too wide so Ive got to make some that fit the guides better. The alternative is to remake the top plates a bit wider to fit the nuts.
All suggestions are welcome.


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## Herbiev (Feb 4, 2014)

Looking great Stan. Keep those photos coming.


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## Sshire (Feb 4, 2014)

Herbie
I'll keep the pix coming if you come up here and take some of this damn snow back with you.


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## kvom (Feb 5, 2014)

American Model Engineering sells scale nuts that look much better.  I think I have some 4-40 nuts from them.  PM me your address and I'll mail you a few (they're steel not brass).


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## Herbiev (Feb 5, 2014)

I'd love to Stan. But with 40C predicted for Saturday how do I keep the darn stuff from melting :hDe:


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## Sshire (Feb 5, 2014)

Really big beer cooler?


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## Sshire (Feb 7, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 3
Cylinder and Fun With Centering*

A piece of 1x1 6061 aluminum on its way to becoming a cylinder.





The cylinder bore is not at .5 in the 1 block. It is positioned .4688 from two adjacent edges. All set up here for step drilling and boring.





I learned from Bogs to bore with the knee power feed. I set the speed pretty low and get a very nice finish. Kept squirting WD40 at the reamer.





Entered the info for the bolt hole circle into the DRO and spotted, drilled and tapped.





Im using a form tap for small holes. No chips means I dont have to back out to break chips and havent broken any 0-80, 1-72 or 2-56 taps this way.





Now, heres where the fun began. I was about to flip the part and setup for the opposite bolt hole circle and noticed that the circle was very slightly offset from the bore. Thus began the Great Centering episode.





 I put the part back and recentered it with the Blake. Then I replaced the Blake with a DTI and swept the bore. It was off center by .024 
Then I proceeded to center with the Starrett center finder and the Haimer Zero Master. All were off and by different amounts. Same R8 collet. 
I was out of ideas and nothing, in my vast 2.5 years of experience helped.
 I posted the problem and, very quickly, Tony (ncmachinist62) came up with the solution. The Bridgeport was out of tram front to back. If youre not familiar with the BP, the head tilts left and right and also nods front to back.
A BIG thanks to Tony for saving me on this one. 

You can read all about it here:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f26/centering-help-needed-22661/

The part was just long enough to mill off the offending end, repeat the previous ops and continue.

Drilling for the standard Verburg port face.






The stubby (.125 depth of cut) .0625 end mill for making the slots.





Setup in the sine vise for drilling the 16.5 degree ports. I found this neat sine bar/vise calculator at Little Machine Shop. Just enter the distance between the sine vise bars and the angle. Not only does it give the height of the Jo blocks, it tells you which blocks to use.

https://www.littlemachineshop.com/mobile/sine_bar.php





More tomorrow.


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## Sshire (Feb 8, 2014)

*Elmer&#8217;s #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 4
More Cylinder Fun*

This cylinder has more operations than a free liposuction clinic near a McDonald&#8217;s.

The angled ports have a 1/16&#8221; slot milled to provide a starting flat for the drill bit. Once again, the stubby end mill gets some work.





Im assuming the setup in the sine vise was correct since the bit exited in the slot port. A good thing.









24 holes and 4 slots later, we end up with this.





Now the cylinder goes onto the lathe to turn the ends round. I&#8217;m using a 5C expansion collet.





Turning the .250 deep round part of the cylinder.





Then turn it around and repeat for the other end.





Then the two sides that have had no ops, get their chance. Milling to the line.









With that done, it&#8217;s now time to round the corner. I suspended the part on a .500 rod and kept rotating and cutting.









Roughed out here.





Followed by Oliver, fettling and abrasive paper









Done and set in place.









Haven&#8217;t decided which part to start tomorrow. Stay tuned for another fascinating episode.


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## dreeves (Feb 8, 2014)

Looking good Stan.


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## Sshire (Feb 9, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 5
A Bearing Experiment*

I really, really didnt want to set up the rotary table to do the rounded tops of the two bearing towers., Not only that, but I have a tendency to overshoot with the rotab rotation and then I have to mill more off the flats. These are standard, Verburg design bearing towers and are used on most of his engines.






After thinking about this for a while I hit on an alternate method. Im sure Im not the first person to think of this, but if I am, send royalties via PM. 
Not sure if this would work; I plowed ahead.

The drawing shows a 9/32 ( .2812 ) radius for the round top, I turned a piece of 6061 down to .5625 O.D. Im calling this the insert.





After milling a piece that was slightly thicker than the finished size to the correct width, A .500 hole was drilled.





And then bored to a thou or so under the insert diameter.





Next, I removed material to equal the distance the round top projects above the flats.





Heres the insert ready for the arbor press.





Good so far. This may actually work.





2 face mill ready to go.





Theres one pass. Now to flip it over and mill to correct thickness.





There are times when I amaze myself. 





This is the other (larger) tower. I decided to use a .500 end mill to make the hole and bore an interrupted cut. That worked fine.





The second bearing tower ready for the mill.





Im sure Ill hear that there is some obscure 19th Century engine builder who made his bearings this way. Much to the delight of his competitors. 

This will be my standard procedure for making these rounded tops as they are the best ones Ive done to date. It also occurred to me that I could have used a brass insert or a Delrin insert or ..


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## GailInNM (Feb 9, 2014)

Good trick Stan.
As popular as Elmer's engines are I am sure that it will be imitated many times.
Gail in NM


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## Heffalump (Feb 10, 2014)

As always - fantastic work!! I wonder if a bench grinder could be used to round off corners like that in the absence of an oliver?


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## Sshire (Feb 10, 2014)

Heff
I see two issues with the grinder.
1. The spacing on this cylinder between the round ends is, IIRC, .825. 
If the width of the wheel is less than this then that wiill work.
2. The bigger issue is aluminum loading the wheel. Pretty sure it would clog up quickly.

The rough rounding on the mill didn't leave all that much work to finish. Files would work pretty quickly and are easily unclogged, especially if they are chalked first.


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 10, 2014)

Really nice work as always Stan.  That was a neat trick making the rounded tower tops.  I've got to file that one for sure (no pun)

Cheers,
Phil


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## Walltoddj (Feb 10, 2014)

Sshire said:


> Heff
> 
> I see two issues with the grinder.
> 
> ...




You can get surface grinder wheels in just about any width you would like I go from 1/8"-1".
There are special wheels for grinding aluminum that they say will not load I've got those as well just need to try them out.

Todd


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## Sshire (Feb 10, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 6
Bearing Down*


Its a conspiracy. Every time I started to do something on the engine, yet another interruption.
First, the tailstock lock on the lathe wouldnt lock. So that came off, cleaned, adjusted the lockdown bolt, reset it. That was an hour.
Then, we had a few inches of snow last evening and I wanted to cleanup. Right. The snowblower refused to start. Had the holy trinity: gas, spark and air but no go.
I pulled the carb, disassembled and cleaned it. Reassembled with new float bowl gasket. Started right up. Another hour.
And thats just about how the day went but I did get a little bit done.

The bearing housings have a sloped side and some other milling. First step was to mill flats at each side.





Note the very visible round insert. More on that later.





Then, with the angle fixture set at 20 degrees, a slope was milled on each side.





I decided to bling up the bearing housing with this insert. 





I also decided that I liked being able to see the round top construction so I slightly recessed the insert rather than making it disappear as I did on the smaller one from the last post.





And is the total progress for today. Maybe fewer interruptions tomorrow.


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 10, 2014)

Nice detail work Stan, keep it coming

Phil


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## Swifty (Feb 10, 2014)

When using surface grinders to grind copper and aluminium, we loaded up the wheel with candle wax to stop pickup. Just hold a candle against the wheel long enough to get the wax embedded, and off you go. You have to take it easy, no heavy cuts, but it works,

Paul.


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## Sshire (Feb 11, 2014)

Progress Report

I made the mill engine floor this morning.
Got the snowblower prepped for the projected 12+" of snow.
Filled all of the 5 gallon gas tanks in case the power goes out.
Sitting in front of the fire with a glass of fine Scottish produce and a very nice Vermont cheddar.
That is all.


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## Swifty (Feb 11, 2014)

Sshire said:


> Progress Report
> 
> Sitting in front of the fire with a glass of fine Scottish produce and a very nice Vermont cheddar.
> That is all.



What a great way to enjoy life

Paul.


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## Sshire (Feb 12, 2014)

Paul
It really is. Looking out of the window at the snow from last week covering the trees and the grass. Looks like one of those Budweiser Christmas commercials.


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## johnmcc69 (Feb 12, 2014)

Stan, great build! One of my favorite Elmers. 
 I feel your pain about the snow. 107+" this season
just across from you here in Erie Pa in the northwest corner
on Lake Erie. 

 -2 deg. & brrrrrrr.....

Best wishes,
 John


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## Sshire (Feb 12, 2014)

John
Don't you love lake effect snow?


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## barnesrickw (Feb 12, 2014)

My uncle lived in Eire for a while.  Never got used to that special Great Lakes weather.  In Muskegon we are somewhere over 100 inches.  The snow banks are too high for the plows to push the snow over.  Some roads are getting narrow.  We could use one of those winter thaws. 


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## Sshire (Feb 14, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 7
Heads Up
*
Before we get started, and to get the UK Thread Police off my back about my use of brass all-thread









KVOM kindly sent me 6 nuts to try. They are absolutely beautiful. I ordered 25 each of #2,4,6,8 and 10 from American Model Engineering Supply in Florida. Talk about a Mom and Pop shop. Pop makes the fasteners and Mom runs the office. Spoke with Barbara (Mom) on the phone. Nice people.

So, todays post-noreaster activity was the cylinder heads.

Started with a piece of round brass to be turned to .91 something.





Drilled for the piston rod and then drilled a bit larger for the 10-32 threaded pack nut.





Threaded with a spiral point tap which pulls the chips out of the hole.





Then to the mill for the bolt hole circle.





Back to the lathe for parting off





Then I switched to a smaller collet to reverse the piece and hold the spigot. The locating boss is .03 deep.





Test fit. Looks fine.





I have 12 bolts to shorten. Hey, Lets make a tool!!

A piece of 6061 milled in thickness to the bolt length I need. Drill some 2-56 holes for a form tap.





And tap 12 holes in under 2 minutes (not counting the 10 minutes to setup the tapping head)





Bolts inserted





And, cut off





Backing them out cleans up the threads





Yes. It did take longer to do that than to cut 12 bolts with a jewelers saw but, the next time I have to cut 2-56 bolts to .25 in length.

That finishes the inboard head.





The outboard head is just a cylinder cover. No spigot; no threading.

I faced the part, moved it to the mill, drilled the bolt hole circle and then came back to the lathe. 
After parting the piece off I reversed it in the collet. Didnt have more than .0625 to grip but I did have to indicate the face to turn the locating boss.





The outboard head done.





Probably the steam chest tomorrow.

Thanks for stopping by.


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## barnesrickw (Feb 14, 2014)

Like the bolt cutting technique.  I look at stuff like that, and it's so simple, yet ingenious. 


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## vascon2196 (Feb 16, 2014)

Time and time again I must say...awesome job Stan.


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## Sshire (Feb 17, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 8
The Eccentric Machinist or A Boring Episode*

The eccentric is pretty straightforward. Mounted the 4-jaw and indicated the brass round to center.





A bit of drilling and reaming on center.









Then, moving the center 0.50 to turn the eccentric.





Sharpened the HSS insert. Happy with the finish.





Parting off and done.









This seemed like a good time to line bore the bearings. I turned a piece of brass tube to maintain the spacing between the bearing housings and used the planer gauge as a bottom support. This whole operation would have been quicker with adjustable parallels as spacers. (if I had any) The shaft will be .25 O.D. Im using ball bearings with an O.D. of .375. Drilled and reamed to .375.





Now comes the part where I try something that:
A. Ive never done before
B. I rarely see anyone else doing this way
C. Why the hell not?

The crank has a rounded bottom and curved sides. Rotary table! No, lets try this another way.
I read somewhere about using a boring head with the cutter turned inward and the mill running in reverse to bore an O.D.

I laid out the crank on a piece of brass and rough cut close to the layout lines with the bandsaw.
The part was centered with the Blakes center pop attachment.





When I say rough cut I really mean it. Drilled a 3/16 hole through the part and the plate for a dowel pin.









Then drilled and tapped through part and plate.





With the part held in place by the dowel pin and screw, I set up the boring head with the cutter facing in, the mill running in reverse at about 200 rpm.





Look good so far





O.D. boring done.





Now with the boring cutter facing out and the mill rotating normally, one side is cut.





Then the piece is flipped over to bore the other side.
Ill be damned! That worked.





The small end was rounded at Oliver.





Now we need a spigot on the crank. Mounted a piece of 6061 in the 5C. Drilled and tapped for a 10-32 SHCS.





Some rough passes to get the thickness down.





And a finishing pass to complete the part.





So, now Ive learned another way to make a crank. Never stop learning.


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## vascon2196 (Feb 18, 2014)

Very cool...it's always nice to see different approaches to doing things. It's funny how our brains work isn't it? That is what I really like about machining...there are so many ways to get the same results. And when you come up with a solution on your own...even better.

I just ordered a boring head kit...I'll have to store this technique away for another time.

Great job Stan.


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## Sshire (Feb 18, 2014)

Absolutely right, Chris. Figuring out how to hold, machine, assemble, etc. is one of my favorite things about this engine thing.
Am I going to see you and the other New England guys at Cabin Fever?


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## vascon2196 (Feb 19, 2014)

You will see plenty of New England guys for sure. I'm still up in the air if I want to make that drive again. If I do go, I won't be bringing any engines...just money  to buy stuff I don't need!


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## johnmcc69 (Feb 19, 2014)

Great techniques & set ups Stan. It's going to be a beautiful model.

 John


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## Herbiev (Feb 20, 2014)

I'll second that.


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## Sshire (Feb 24, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 9
Fiddly Bits*

The steam chest has many operations, many of them on tiny parts.
After squaring up the piece for the chest body, I located the centers and then cut through the corners.









Then, very slowly, with one eye on the part and the other on the DRO, I transformed the inside into chips. The nozzle is blowing air to keep the chips clear. Keeps the end mill from getting jammed up with chips and breaking.





Elmers procedure is to mount the part in a 4-jaw and turn the end bosses (one for the valve rod and pack nut and the other for the rod guide. I did that on the Grasshopper but changed to threaded in bosses on later engines. I liked the contrast of the brass and aluminum.





With both bosses threaded and Loctited into the steam chest, I line drilled through both, stopping just short of breaking through the guide boss.





Next are the cover plate and valve plate. Also brass.









Test fit for alignment. LOOK!! 1.5 threads above the nut.





I setup this square bar for the connecting rod and decided to stop there and changed the part to a built-up con rod.





One end of the rod for a test fit.





Both ends ready to go to the mill for flattening the sides and drilling the cross holes.





The part in a collet block. A flat was milled, the block was rotated 180 degrees and the opposite flat was milled. I didnt drill the cross holes at this time because I wanted to wait until the ends were Loctited and cured. That way, the holes will be aligned. Elmers plans have the hole dimensions center-to-center.





Back at the lathe, The parts were reversed and cut to finished length.





Then bored for the rod.





On to the Eccentric strap. Turned and bored at the lathe and then a .0625 slot was cut.





The strap was milled and both pieces were silver soldered.





I located the center of the large hole, moved to Elmers dimension and drilled the other hole.





Then to the drilling on the connecting rod. I used the square to get the part parallel to the x-axis. I next ran a DTI along the rod to fine tune the parallelism. and drilled.





A test fit of the eccentric on the shaft.





And the final fit of the piston in the cylinder.





The piston has 3 oil grooves, .005 deep. 





Then, drilling and tapping the piston and threading the piston rod. They were then Loctited together.





Now, on to the crosshead. I cut off a piece at the bandsaw and squared it up to size.

















First, a guide boss was milled. This is the width of the crosshead guide spacing.
Then, one slot, one through hole and one cross hole. 













The crosshead get checked off the parts list.





Talk about, fiddly bits and the valve has to be mentioned. Forget Finding Elmo. There is a valve in here somewhere.





.0625 stubby end mill. The vise stop looks huge compared to the valve.





More tiny milling





The valve bottom. Check that part off.





Next is the end that threads onto the valve rod. Some turning and shaping at the lathe, then a slot and cross hole at the mill.









The valve rod Loctited and curing.





Not too many parts to make. A shoulder bolt, some pins, the pack nuts and the flywheel. 
Stay tuned.


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## vascon2196 (Feb 25, 2014)

Great job Stan...lots of great pics! Your Kurt vise looks brand new...I'll trade you for an antique Kurt vise equipped with accidental drilled holes to give it that "swiss cheese" look.

Make sure you finish this engine for Cabin Fever...I booked my hotel this past weekend!


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## Sshire (Feb 25, 2014)

I think I'll pass on the vise trade. It is brand new. A holiday gift.
It'll be good to see you at CF. if you can, bring the Henry Ford engine.


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## Sshire (Feb 25, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 10
Screwed!*

I hadnt expected to be in the shop today, but I finished a short consulting job early (consulting means that you know slightly more than the people contracting you.)

Figured Id get to something and the shoulder screw that connects the con rod to the crank was a likely suspect.

A short piece of 12L14 .25 hex bar in a collet. Turned the shoulder to .1875 to fit through the con rod.





Next, the part to be threaded turned to .125





Threaded to 5-40.





Parted off. I left plenty of hex because I thought that Elmers head height looked a bit thin. I was comparing the dimensions in both Elmers drawings and the specs in Machinists Handbook.





Machinists Handbook head height was slightly higher than Elmers, but I thought that, visually, they were both too thin. I went about 20 thou thicker.

A 30 degree (as speced in than Handbook) carbide tool to chamfer the corners.





Completed shoulder screw.





Heres where its used.





Richie, my UPS guy, delivered some ¼ brass hex from Online Metals for the pack nuts. Those and a few other parts are for tomorrow.


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## dreeves (Feb 26, 2014)

Looking good Stan. Can't wait to see her running.

Dave


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## Sshire (Feb 27, 2014)

Other than machining the flywheel casting that arrived from PMR, all parts are done.
Look for the finished stuff tomorrow. I do have a "test" flywheel that mysteriously bent itself off center, but it's close enough for testing.
Just to hold you over, here's something to watch.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VUK8bgnDeM&list=UUtv2FL7ehRo9CV-vt2kPlWw&feature=c4-overview[/ame]


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## Sshire (Mar 1, 2014)

*Elmers #33 - Mill Engine
Episode 11
Elmer! Come in for dinner!*

Elmer Verburg sits at his drafting table putting the finishing touches on a steam chest drawing.
Lets see. Intake ports. Threaded mounting holes. Nine tiny holes. Ha! That should give the guys with .050 backlash a fun day.
Hmm, did I miss anything? Oh, yes. The hole for the exhaust port. I have it on the cutaway but not on the top face drawing. Also need a drill size for the hole.
Elmer picks up his pencil to add the missing elements to the drawing.
Suddenly, Elmer! Come in for dinner. You can finish that later.





Of course, Elmer never does add the two missing elements and I spent some time this morning figuring that one out. When I made the cylinder, I remember noting that the exhaust had to exit somewhere, but in the frenzy of making the other parts, like Elmer, I forgot. So the cylinder goes back on the mill for drilling the exhaust channels.





Now to bevel the base and sub-base. The angle isnt critical; its supposed to suggest that the bases were cast and have a draft angle. 5 degrees looked about right so the angle vise was clamped in the Kurt (anything not to have to re-indicate the Kurt).





The 2 face mill bevels the long sides





A side view.





Now that those edges are finished, the ends will be done. I used a high helix end mill. Nice finish on the non-ferrous stuff.









Milling is finished.





The machining marks removal department.





Since the base and sub-base are going to be painted, I started by bead blasting the parts.





This was followed by self-etching primer and black gloss enamel.

While the paint is drying, I moved on to the two pack nuts: one for the steam chest valve rod and the other for the piston rod. Started with .250 brass hex in a 5C collet. Marked the part to be threaded to length.





Then turned to something under .190 (.186 IIRC) for the 10-32 thread.









Through drilled for the rods then, parted off.





The piston was just the littlest bit tight. Timesaver fixed that. 









Ive decided to do the floor in lumber planking. First I scribed around the bearing tower and the sub-base. This will tell me where NOT to lay my flooring.





Basswood stripping with Bartleys Gel Stain. Cutting and fitting followed.





Double-stick carpet tape to affix the stripping.





Youll see that when its finished. If you dont know by now, Richie is my UPS guy. Since he brought the flywheel casting from PMR, that needed to be addressed.

The soft jaws went onto the 3-jaw chuck. They were tensioned at about the right diameter and bored to grip the bronze flywheel casting.





More than half of the rim can be reached for truing.





Then, faced and the hub faced and turned. The part is then reversed in the soft jaws. Repeat.





Then drilled a bit under-size and reamed to .250





Oliver removed the flash and cleaned up the corners.









Then to the bench. I started with 80 grit then 100, 120 and 220. I use the fabric-backed abrasive rolls and use a piece until it stops cutting or looks like old denim.





This is where I stopped for the day. Still need to smooth between spoke at the rim, then masking, priming and painting. Thats for tomorrow.


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