# Two IC newbies Build Websters



## jixxerbill (Mar 8, 2013)

After getting the metal in yesterday for building the Webster engine I noticed in another thread that Aonemarine was contemplating building a Webster also. I contacted him and we had a long talk about building them at the same time and putting up one thread and share how we are doing things. I think both being on one thread will make it easier when it comes time for needing help.. I have read thru Brian's build of the Webster and Aonemarine has also so maybe we can get thru this with a minimum of problems and few offerings to the machining gods. We both started on the builds today. im going to post a few pics but nothing fancy just the base and started on one of the side frames. Speaking for myself if anyone hapens to see anything that dont look right please call it out to me..Thanks...Bill

Top and bottom of base after trying to get it flatter..I took all i could get so i had some material left. And one pic of end of work today


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## aonemarine (Mar 8, 2013)

I all most have to laugh.. pictures on the table saw.....Theres just something about that nice cast iron work bench with a saw blade sticking thru it.  Bill we have way too much in common.
  I managed to get my base cut out today and the outside profile milled. I dont plan on finishing the top off nice just yet. Ill wait till all else is done so I dont scratch it up.  I do some stupid things at times, so to keep me in line I left myself a little note on my work piece.


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## Speedy (Mar 9, 2013)

hi gentleman, I started mine also. completed cylinder head (if you need to drill the spark plug hole first, then you can use a 1 inch mill to drill out the cylinder bore instead of chucking up to the lathe  ), and cylinder aswel as the main support side. 
I will follow your progress


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## Gerry Sweetland (Mar 9, 2013)

That's a neat idea to both build the engine and share a thread about it.
I have the plans but have yet to get started on it.
I'll be following as well 
Gerry


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 9, 2013)

Lord help you boys!!! You are going to have more fun than a barrel of monkeys. Hope all goes well, if you have any questions I'll be glad to answer them.---Brian


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## cheepo45 (Mar 9, 2013)

Great Idea! I will be following this build. My first (and only completed) I.C. engine is an Upshur farm engine I built about 15 years ago. I have 3 more in various stages of completion-I hope to finish my 1/4 scale Gade this year. I have built 2 steam (air) motors, but my heart is still with I.C.
Keep up the good work!
                 Cheepo45


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## aonemarine (Mar 9, 2013)

Brian, thanks for the support. Bill and I have been checking out your build on this engine to help us along. Thanks for taking the time to post it.
  Scott, glad to see your following along. Dont hesitate to jump in with some pointers! I know Im going to need them.

  I only managed an hour in the shop this evening. I was tired when I started out and every thing I did was a near screw up. Stupid little things like not locking the quill and knee, and cutting too close to the line on the band saw. I packed it up before I screwed up. Managed to get the one side frame cut out, milled to shape, and fly cut to the right thickness....Tomorrow is another day...


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## jixxerbill (Mar 9, 2013)

I spent most of the day helping my Brother-in-law with a cattle guard. but i did get a little done..




SAM_0023.JPG (279.9 KB) 




SAM_0024.JPG (281.5 KB)


Does the sight of this make anyone cringe? Im not ready to do it yet but i was gonna use this set up to line bore my brass bushings.. The clamps are holding onto a piece of half inch steel plate behind the base .. Thanks all




SAM_0025.JPG (280.6 KB)


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## ShedBoy (Mar 10, 2013)

When I bore two holes seperated like the picture above I like to put a support between them. I usually find a bolt that fits in there with a bit of a gap and use a nut to take up the gap, use no tools just enough pressure to hold the bolt in place and the same below the bottom piece. 

Brock


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## ZebDog (Mar 10, 2013)

Hi ya.. good idea two pepole building the engins on one thread.
 i down loaded the plans about a year ago to have a crack at it but never got started so i will be following with intrest good luck on this


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## jixxerbill (Mar 10, 2013)

A little more done today. Still have more holes to tap in the cyl. head frame and waiting on my 4-jaw to finish the bore in it..


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## aonemarine (Mar 10, 2013)

I got the other side frame cut out, milled to shape, and was fly cutting it down to thickness. Running into a little issue....Measuring the stock I get
LF .325
LR .323
RF .323
RR .321

This is kind odd as I just spent a lot of time getting things into tram (less than .001 over 6") I am thinking there is something going on in the knee of the mill. I really need to check into this further, I can deal with .002" error but .004" is really pushing it. I need to think about it a bit before taking off those last few thou.


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## Speedy (Mar 11, 2013)

aone
funny you say that I had that problem to.
hows your vice? I noticed because the one I am using is old when I use parallels to keep the work at a good milling hight I get variance in the final dimensions. vice is evidently worn on its base.

also jixxer bill, I dont have a 4 jaw so what I did for the bore is drill out the spark hole like you have done then with it still positioned in the mill I used a 1 inch end mill and plunged it to the correct depth, works like a charm   if you want to to do that its still possible just get a center finder and away you go


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## aonemarine (Mar 11, 2013)

My mill, vice, and everything is old.  So I blame problems on my old clunky mill first. Turns out it was a small high spot on the parallels causing the problem.  Finished milling plate, now measures .3133 to .3132".  Guess old clunky mill isn't so bad after all.


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## aonemarine (Mar 11, 2013)

Made some progress today, Got the side frame cut and milled to the right thinckness, made a full width surface pass on the base plate, then drilled taped and counter sunk the holes in the base plate. Thats probably it for tonight. Tomorrow I will start laying out and drilling the holes in the side frames. Need to look up drill size for reaming the 1/4 and 1/2" holes...


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 11, 2013)

Good work guys!! You're moving right along.---Brian


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## aonemarine (Mar 11, 2013)

One thing I do have to gripe about is working from the drawings and having the material flipped (working upside down) Talking about driving me nuts!! Im mildly dislexic so this is a major challenge for me! Deep breaths and go slow... yea I can do it!!


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## Speedy (Mar 11, 2013)

looking much more sharp then my work. 

needed to know the ream for myself
http://www.rockrivertool.com/documents/pre-ream-drill-size-chart.pdf

I dont have my plans on me, but I didnt drill the small hole next to the two supports. what is that hole for? its bothering me. :O


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## jixxerbill (Mar 11, 2013)

Speedy said:


> looking much more sharp then my work.
> 
> needed to know the ream for myself
> http://www.rockrivertool.com/documents/pre-ream-drill-size-chart.pdf
> ...


 

I think the hole is for the rocker arm spring bolt. Thanks for the drill chart.. I like the idea of using 1 inch endmill for the cyl head frame but i dont have an endmill that big.. And im not sure my machine would spin it lol...Bill


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## jixxerbill (Mar 12, 2013)

After spending yeaterday cleaning up and making a few tools i needed. We got a little done today.. I made an attempt at making springs but the mandrel i used was too small. I guessed at what size mandrel to use, the springs in the picture are to small on the id.. Last pic (if they loaded in order) is of the spring making contraption i was using.. I set the tpi on the lathe and turned it by hand.. Small hole in the mandrel to secure loose end of wire. I think it will work if i can get the id right on the springs..


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## Speedy (Mar 12, 2013)

I hope I can source the springs, not something I am prepared to make  

your making great progress.


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## aonemarine (Mar 12, 2013)

Bill is moving right along, I had to do that work thing so not much shop time today. Nice work on the springs, valve guide and valve.
Ugg I need to get some more shop time!!

whats that shiney candy apple red thing in the back ground??  Camaro??


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## gabby (Mar 13, 2013)

Hi there guys, just found this thread, I think i will follow along with the others as well.
Cheers
Graham


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 13, 2013)

Sopport the far end of your mandrel in the tailstock chuck. Don't tighten the chuck, just close it enough to provide a loose guide for the end of the mandrel.--And keep good tension on the far end of that music wire with the vice-grips while winding.  Post #80 or thereabouts on my Kerzel build shows the method for heat treating/stabilizing the spring after it is wound.You're doing great work.---Brian


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## jixxerbill (Mar 14, 2013)

Thanks Brian, I did as you sugested and made a few more with diffrent mandrels.. They are baking as i type this lol... Got just a little done today, I was busy cleaning my new 4 jaw chuck up.. Then i stared at it for a couple hours (I have never used one lol).. I Finished both valves and guides and lapped them in.. Then made the crank bearings and locktite them in the frames. The hole in them has to be bored out more but i wanted to save a little meat for line boring them. Oh and i used my 1/8 inch roundover bit from my woodworking tools on the edges of the base, I made very small cuts till it was at full depth.. Probably not the real machinest way but it turned out nice i think.. Bill


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## ZebDog (Mar 14, 2013)

Things seem to be moving on nicley guys keep up the good work


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## aonemarine (Mar 14, 2013)

I managed a couple of hours today, got all the holes drilled, taped and reamed in the side frames. Will finish the outer profile tomorrow.


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## cheepo45 (Mar 14, 2013)

Looking good! 
 cheepo45


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## aonemarine (Mar 16, 2013)

Im just slowly plugging along... I dont know what else I can say, except I thought id be further along by now, just keep getting tied up on other projects around the house.. Oh well maybe this coming week I can make some real progress...


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## cheepo45 (Mar 16, 2013)

I think they are coming along well. I know about limited shop time-it took me 5 months to build my opposed engine! Work gets in the way of all the fun stuff!
            cheepo45


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## aonemarine (Mar 18, 2013)

Well ive hit that point in time where I feel like I have actually accomplished something. Got lucky today and managed to source the tap (10mm x 1.0) at the local hardware store, and the plug at the local auto store. Managed a couple more hours over the past few days, and things are starting to come together nicely.  On a seperate not my brain seems to be getting back into gear and working properly...guess the old saying is true, use it or loose it!!


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## jixxerbill (Mar 18, 2013)

Worked on some scrap to get familiar with the new 4-jaw chuck... I like it, but then again my 3-jaw had almost .008 runout. The little extra time to set up a piece is worth the accuracy gain ! First work for the new chuck was making 2 cylinders ???? I had the first one machined down to the right diameter then happened to notice on plans it was suspossed to be 2.5 inches long, not 2.250 that i had cut it to!! But that will teach me to double, tripple check plans ! Anywho the cast was generaly ok to work with (my first time with it) but when using parting tool to make fins it chattered like crazy... I slowed down the lathe, sped it up, moved the tool up, then down ?? I have to find a small set of files now to remove the chatter markes...There is a way to do it without chatter, but its beyond my knowledge...


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 18, 2013)

To remove chatter.---Its a bit too late now, but the NEXT time---When you have reached the full depth of cut, just leave the tool engaged and let it run for a minute without advancing or backing the tool away. That gets rid of chatter marks most of the time for me.


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## jixxerbill (Mar 19, 2013)

Little more work today.. Got cyl mounted to frame, made a piston and some rings. And in the pic is the tool I made for sanding the rings to thickness..


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## gabby (Mar 20, 2013)

Hey there, you guys are going great guns and if you keep up the momentum, you could be starting up in a week or so.
Good on ya.
Cheers
Graham


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## AussieJimG (Mar 20, 2013)

I like the  tool for sanding rings to thickness. Very flash.

Jim


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## jixxerbill (Mar 20, 2013)

AussieJimG said:


> I like the tool for sanding rings to thickness. Very flash.
> 
> Jim


 
Not my invention Jim, but it worked great..I got afew odds and ends done today but forgot to bring my camera home.. I also called SDP to order the gears and they are sold out of the 48 tooth gear. said it will be 8 to 10 weeks before they get them in.. I checked on WM Berg website with the part number but it says it dont exist ??? Oh well ill keep pluggin away and maybe someone on here will have a back-up plan.. Bill


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## aonemarine (Mar 20, 2013)

I managed to get my crank bushings done today, not100% happy with the .313 bore on them so I might give them to the gods and make another set.  I had plans on pouring myself a nice chunk of Iron to make the cylinder out of but found a nice big rusty chunk of steel and decided to give it a go. It machines like crap!! Think its hot rolled and im probably going to regret it when I try to finish the bore but well see.
Hmm no gears?? Guess we will have to make them.....


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 21, 2013)

Aonemarine--I owe the engineering Gods a set of gears to keep my karma straight. Someone built me a pair for my first Kerzel engine. Let me check when I get home tonight. If I can do it with 24DP I'll make you a set and send them to you.---Brian


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## jixxerbill (Mar 21, 2013)

Thanks everyone for all the comments and suggestions.. Looking good Aonemarine. Would aluminum gears work for this? I think i found a set on WM BERG website. Its 19 degrees here today, I don't have enough heater in the shop to keep it warm enough to work in so im staying home today.lol


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## Speedy (Mar 21, 2013)

I machined my cylinder out of hot rolled steel, o my god I cant get a good finnish. at the bottom of the cylinder I have noticable grooves by feel. I hope it works out if not I will machine another only after I see if it runs.

let me know if you find a source for the gears? that and the springs I am dreading.

good progress, you all overtook me


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## aonemarine (Mar 21, 2013)

Today at 11:45  swarf levels reached critical mass. I had to take some time and clean up the swarf in the chip pan was up to the carriage.  I managed to get the cylinder parted off, drilled, and started the Booring process.
So far the finish is better than I was expecting. I'm only taking .010" doc at a time and it is making some light chatter noise but no visible chatter marks in the bore. I feel good about it so far. 
    Brian, that would be great if you could. If not ill have to go shopping for some cutters.

  Speedy,  winding springs isn't that bad, you should give it a try.
I'll post pictures late tonight, ran out of time today...


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## canadianhorsepower (Mar 21, 2013)

aonemarine said:


> Today at 11:45 swarf levels reached critical mass. I had to take some time and clean up the swarf in the chip pan was up to the carriage. I managed to get the cylinder parted off, drilled, and started the Booring process.
> So far the finish is better than I was expecting. I'm only taking .010" doc at a time and it is making some light chatter noise but no visible chatter marks in the bore. I feel good about it so far.
> Brian, that would be great if you could. If not ill have to go shopping for some cutters.
> 
> ...


 
If you go to an autopart store get a belt that is use to remove vibration
 from front brake rotors. It does miracle for 10.00


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## jixxerbill (Mar 21, 2013)

Canadianhp I know of the belt used to stop chatter on turning disc braked rotors , would you wrap it around the part many times to take up the slack? The one I used was adjustable down to a small size but then it would be flopping around !! That's a good idea. Thanks Bill.


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## aonemarine (Mar 21, 2013)

Luc,  not sure if it would work in my case.  I can put my finger on yhe boring bar and it stops the noise. It's a small boring bar with 3" of stickout cutting hot rolled steel.  The finish is good so im not worried about it.
 I see where you were planning on building a 2013 edition webster.  Have you started on it yet?  This seems to be the year for Webster builds.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 21, 2013)

Aonemarine---I just checked the Berg catalogue, and the pitch diameters of the 32DP gears called for in the Webster plans are 24 tooth .75" pitch dia. and 48 tooth 1.5" pitch diameter. My cutters are 24 DP, but I can make you a set of 18 tooth and 36 tooth gears which will have the same ratio and  pitch diameters and consequently the same center to center distance. I can keep the face width the same (3/16") and the same hub o.d. and length. Small gear will be made from brass, large gear made from aluminum. Bores will be made to suit the webster shafts.


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## aonemarine (Mar 21, 2013)

Brian,  that would be great!!  Thanks in advance!!


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## canadianhorsepower (Mar 21, 2013)

aonemarine said:


> Luc, not sure if it would work in my case. I can put my finger on yhe boring bar and it stops the noise. It's a small boring bar with 3" of stickout cutting hot rolled steel. The finish is good so im not worried about it.
> I see where you were planning on building a 2013 edition webster. Have you started on it yet? This seems to be the year for Webster builds.


 
#1 as for putting your finger on the part and cutting vibration that works also
this might funny but results are amazing
take a small role of crad board
toilet paper size
#1 layer silk or leather cheep stuff
#2 polyuritane( what they use to stick your windsheild to your car) 1/2 inch of it in the tube
#3 stick a 3/32 bigger or smaller to fit your need
and let it stay for 3 to 4 days
 after simply apply a small pressure to your parts and all your
noise will go


> I see where you were planning on building a 2013 edition webster. Have you started on it yet?


all the plans are uyp to date
I still have a few Robots to finish and PLC before this semester is over
beside going with my wife cancer threatment it's a hand full


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## jixxerbill (Mar 21, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Aonemarine---I just checked the Berg catalogue, and the pitch diameters of the 32DP gears called for in the Webster plans are 24 tooth .75" pitch dia. and 48 tooth 1.5" pitch diameter. My cutters are 24 DP, but I can make you a set of 18 tooth and 36 tooth gears which will have the same ratio and pitch diameters and consequently the same center to center distance. I can keep the face width the same (3/16") and the same hub o.d. and length. Small gear will be made from brass, large gear made from aluminum. Bores will be made to suit the webster shafts.


 

Hey Brian can i talk you out of 2 sets of gears ? I would gladly pay you for them.. Bill


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## Speedy (Mar 21, 2013)

Brian if your up three,  I have paypal.
I will keep looking for sources

aonemarine, I think I will have to try making the springs. I am using my neighbors lathe as mine doesnt auto feed. last I remember his isnt working properly so will see what happens.

if anyones making springs and they dont mind making an extra let me know


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## jixxerbill (Mar 21, 2013)

Michael, I dont mind making you the springs. I made mine but they are not Perfect.. Like it calls for 7 turns of the .013 wire and it was good till i heated them but now mine are 7 1/2 turns in .625 inch.. If you want to wait till later on if i can get mine to work or remake them ill send you a set.. Bill


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## Speedy (Mar 21, 2013)

Hi Bill that sounds like a plan. 
I still have plenty to work on so its not a rush. 
I appreciate it


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## aonemarine (Mar 21, 2013)

Speedy, if you still need a set when I get that far ill make you some.
A couple of pictures of todays progress....

Not uploading for some reason.....


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## canadianhorsepower (Mar 22, 2013)

> [Canadianhp I know of the belt used to stop chatter on turning disc braked rotors , would you wrap it around the part many times to take up the slack? /QUOTE]
> yes exactly if you dont have one of those or if it's your tool that chatters another method that
> works fine simply get a bag of rubber band from the hobby shop and wind them around your parts and tool
> I do it all the time on brass cheers


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 22, 2013)

Plastacine is always a good one too


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2013)

Aonemarine--Here are your gears. I just have to shave away a bit of material before I send them to you.---Jixerbill---Just read your post. Once I'm set up, its just as easy to cut two of each gear. I'll do yours too.-Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2013)

And here's your two big gears--all they need is teeth.


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## jixxerbill (Mar 22, 2013)

Your the man Brian.. Thanks plenty for doing this. Looks good...14 degrees here this morning but headed to 50 they say.. Im going to give it a little bit then head to shop.. Bill


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

Thanks Brian, Im heading to the shop in a couple of minutes...once I warm up, been standing out in the cold for safety training at work.
Going to try and video some turning on the lathe,  why not LOL


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2013)

And here we have it---All the gear blanks ready for gear tooth cutting. I hope you guys haven't finished your valve cams yet. The hub on one of the large gears is .375" diameter dead nuts. The hub on the other large gear ended up at at 0.360" diameter.---Not certain how that happened. I'm off to the machine shop now to set up my rotary table.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2013)

This is the math involved each time I go to cut a gear. There is a calculation to establish what the diameter of the gear blank has to be. The actual depth of cut is always .09" for my 24DP cutters. I have a chart to select which gear cutter to use for a specific number of teeth. There are 8 different gear cutters and each one cuts a certain range of teeth. I have another chart that tells me how many full turns or part turns I have to make with the rotary table crank, and which divider plate to use to accomplish this to get the correct angular spacing between the gear teeth. People have asked how I hold the gears so that they don't rotate on the arbor while I am cutting the teeth. If I'm not in a hurry I use my secret weapon, #638 Loctite. Trouble is you have to wait overnight for it to cure. It doesn't need heat to release it, so the arbor can just be tapped out of the gears with a brass punch when the gear cutting is done. If I am in a hurry, I use a set screw in the gears hub to lock it to the shaft, or drill a cross hole thru both gear hub and arbor (arbor is just a piece of cold rolled steel shaft).


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

Brian, your not wasting any time thats for sure! 

I finished boring out the cylinder to just a little under .001" and then finish honed it. The bore came out very well and is straight and true to with in .0002" I left the bore with a little tooth to help seat the iron rings. I feel pretty good about it (happy dance) 
Still a little work to do outside the cylinder, need to take the diameter down on the cooling fins as I turned them to 1.625" and they should be 1.5" so back down to the basement I go....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFMp8gcKZg8&feature=youtu.be
[ame]http://youtu.be/rFMp8gcKZg8[/ame]


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2013)

First set of small gears finished. No Mishaps!!!


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

Ok im done for the day, finished the cylinder all up Looks good to me!
  One more pic showing the honed finish.....


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2013)

Aonemarine. The gears are finished. One set for you and one set for Jixerbill. I have assembled them on shafts mounted on 1.128" centers, and they mesh just fine. I have tried both sets. Send me your mailing address and I'll ship them out tomorrow. I feel good that I have been able to repay the favours that other guys on these forums have done for me.---Brian


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

Dang!!  That was fast!!!  Would have taken me a couple of days.....Hmm maybe I will be running in time for the cabin fever expo....NAH still alot of work to do...   Thank you very much Brian!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2013)

I just love all the really weird math associated with cutting gears. The first few times I did it, I thought my head would explode, trying to understand the relationships between number of degrees in a circle, number of teeth in the gear, number of degrees the rotary table turns for each revolution of the handle, what to do with all of the different holes in the divider plates, and on and on. Every time I cut a gear its a big surprise. You do all the calculations, make the gear blank according to what the specs call up for a given pitch diameter and start cutting. You never really know untill you have cut every tooth whether you calculated it right or not. When you've gone all the way around, cutting one tooth at a time, you hold your breath----Full Suspense----Will the cutter cut air when you've gone all the way around, or will it begin chomping away on one of the teeth you have already cut!!! If it cuts air, you're golden!!! If it starts chomping away on a previously cut tooth----Damn---You've figured something out wrong. time to start all over again.


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

Math has never been one of my fine points, If I knew now what I would be doing I would have paid more attention in school. I have a really good book on gear cutting that makes my head spin. I really need to sit down and try my hand at it but only have some 12 DP cutters at this time so I am overly thankful that you took this on for me.  I still have much to learn,  21 years ago I thought I knew it all......


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2013)

Aonemarine---You NEVER know it all!!!!


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Aonemarine---You NEVER know it all!!!!


 
Try telling that to a teenager!!! LOL


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## jixxerbill (Mar 22, 2013)

Wow Brian ! Thank you so much. That was fast. Im not real strong on gears and i have no cutters.. I just dont understand all the terminology that goes with them.. Thanks again..Bill

Looking good Aonemarine !! Im still undecided on weather or not to crosshatch my cylinder or not.. I might use the hone with very light pressure on the spring to give it just a little crosshatch... Yours turned out great.. I got a little done today im going to post pics later ..Bill


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

Hatch = iron ring, Lapped & polished = O ring.... Just a personal opinion... Main thing is bore is straight and true before either...


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## jixxerbill (Mar 22, 2013)

Back in the day when I raced karts, i would bore the cylinder then hone to .001 larger than piston diameter with an adjustable hone that actually locked the stones into position.Then lapped the cyl to remove all hone marks. Then I ran a regular hone with medium stones on it in a handheld drill on slow to put a nice set of crosshatch in it..Just one stroke up and down with the hone one time.. Those motors were getting tore down almost every weekend because they thought i was cheating !!! I was but they were looking in the wrong place lol... I got the tear down money everytime !! Anyway even after just a few hot laps and heat and feature race when the motor was inspected the rings were shiney (seated) all the way around and the crosshatch was all but gone.. It worked back then so I guess i need to use same process now also..Bill


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

When I was building engines, I would finish the bore with 220 stones (light pressure) for iron rings, but then for chrome moly rings... Torque plate, 220 then 400 then 600 poilshed to near mirror surface.  I strived for zero, but was very happy with .0001" and not so happy with /.0002"    I all ways honed the percision jobs by hand so I could feel what was going on.
  ever canteen a bore??  I used to build JR dragster motors... 32 HP out of a 5 hp block.  Man they can break **** you never saw coming!!


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## jixxerbill (Mar 22, 2013)

Got the crank done and a couple oilers, line bored the crank bushings and made a shaft for the cam to ride on.. Oh yeah and Autozone had the sparkplug.. I would like to get the con rod done this weekend and the piston.. Im back to work on Monday so progress will slow way down..


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## canadianhorsepower (Mar 22, 2013)

[quoteI used to build JR dragster motors... 32 HP out of a 5 hp block. Man they can break **** you never saw coming!! ][/quote]

It's funny you mention these we were building them here in Canada at Steeve Payne shop and then dyno test at Jaws performance with Graig


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## jixxerbill (Mar 22, 2013)

I never raced any karts that required a stud girdle or head girdle..I raced mostly box stock was getting 8 or 9 hp out of them iirc.. .. What was funny i thought was that a stock 5 hp briggs was rated at 3250 rpm i think it was, we was twisting them to 5500 to 6000 lol Those boys running the open class was getting the 3x hp out of them and twisting them up like they stoled them lmao... JR dragsters were just getting started good when i quit drag racing motorcycles a few years ago.. If it has an engine and 2 or 4 wheels on it my family has raced it at one time or another lol...I would have a sbc dragster right now if it wouldnt cost me another divorce..


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## aonemarine (Mar 22, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> [quoteI used to build JR dragster motors... 32 HP out of a 5 hp block. Man they can break **** you never saw coming!! ]


 
It's funny you mention these we were building them here in Canada at Steeve Payne shop and then dyno test at Jaws performance with Graig[/QUOTE]


OH yea Lots of fun!!!  Wait til one splits the block apart on the dyno!! Ive had over 30 distroy them selves by splitting the block near the base mounting block and a few have chucked the cams.. the stock blocks are just too weak!


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## canadianhorsepower (Mar 23, 2013)

aonemarine said:


> It's funny you mention these we were building them here in Canada at Steeve Payne shop and then dyno test at Jaws performance with Graig


 

OH yea Lots of fun!!! Wait til one splits the block apart on the dyno!! Ive had over 30 distroy them selves by splitting the block near the base mounting block and a few have chucked the cams.. the stock blocks are just too weak![/QUOTE]
  Been their Done that and Bauth the T shirt 
but for the last 10 years or so Steeve is the sol reatailer of the GODZILLA
block fror Briggs and JR dragter


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## aonemarine (Mar 23, 2013)

Bill, Couple of questions....What material did you make your piston out of, and is you crank soldered up or turned from one piece?


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 23, 2013)

Aonemarine--I sent both sets of gears off to you this morning by Canada Post. You will have to get Jixerbills to him. How far away does he live from you? I just checked on Mapquest, and its 984 kilometers (thats about 615 miles) from Barrie to Wilmington. I love the old New England states. Maybe wife and I will come down your way this summer to check out your Webster.----Brian


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## aonemarine (Mar 23, 2013)

Thanks Brian, no problem sending the gears from here. I plan on casting up a couple of flywheels for our engines, so Ill just mail them and the fly wheel together.
  Bill, what kind of flywheel would you like to see on your engine?? Im going to be starting them next week...


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## Speedy (Mar 23, 2013)

I think making the crank three separate pieces brazed and pinned would make it very strong.
light press and pinned should work just as well?

curious to hear myself


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## cheepo45 (Mar 23, 2013)

aonemarine- Let me know when you will be casting the flywheels-I would like to check it out if possible. 
                cheepo45


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## aonemarine (Mar 23, 2013)

No problem Cheepo... Ill ring you up once the pattern is finished and well figure out a time.


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## jixxerbill (Mar 24, 2013)

The crank is three pieces, light press fit and attempted to silver solder them together.. Did not turn out well so I cross drilled and roll pinned it. My piston is 7075 AL and I made the rings from cast iron and heat treated them..I went with .062 for the ring groove instead of the plans called for .094.. I still went with what the plans called for on depth of groove and rings are .050.. Bill


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## jixxerbill (Mar 24, 2013)

Some firsts for me today.. One I had never tapped 2-56 threads and two i had never used a spiral tap.. Went OK but was in aluminum.. I finished the valve block and installed the guides. I didn't put anything on top of block when i was pressing the guides in so there is a nice ring around the top of the block where the socket was that i used to go over the guide:wall::wall:.
I run the engine in a little with a drill and pulled the piston to see if the rings were seating. The top ring is good but the bottom ring has a spot about 1/4 inch wide thats not shinny yet.. I'll run it a little more tomorrow and finish seating them.. I also put a picture in here of making the valve blocks. I drilled all the center holes then used a 1/4 inch bolt and nut to sandwich them together. Drilled all the way thru (.750) with small diameter then went back with clearance bit down 1/2 inch. that leaves the bottom plate for threads.. I made a little video of engine while running but it was a little shaky.. The intake opens OK and when you push the exhaust or intake open by hand the engine speeds up and there is a noticeable difference in drill motor noise. So I think the valves are trying to work and I do have some compression..


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## gabby (Mar 26, 2013)

Wow  that looks like progress to me 
Cheers
Graham


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## aonemarine (Mar 28, 2013)

Had to finish up another project the past couple of days. Finally got some me time in the shop today. I re did the crank bushings a few more times, my .3125" reamer loves to make the hole .317 every single time, so I got mad and just bored the things to .313" Im waiting on some 4140 stock to turn the crank out of and some drill rod, should arrive on monday. Decided to give the valve guids a go and eyed around the shop for some suitable material. Cut off a casting sprue from my last iron pour and started turning it down to size. Finished one and the other is 50%.  Tomorrow is going to be pattern making day for the flywheel then will cast it up when cheepo45 and I can get together....
Heres a couple pics to please the forum gods...


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## jixxerbill (Mar 29, 2013)

A couple of small offerings I completed today.. I took the photo with my cell phone and it always turns them side ways ..sorry for that ! The ignition cam and the rocker arm...Bill


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 29, 2013)

Hey Guys----If you are looking for a source for the spring that sets under the rocker arm to keep it in contact with the cam, a spring out of the rewind mechanism on an old chainsaw or lawnmower works really good.


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## aonemarine (Mar 30, 2013)

Well the past couple of days have gone to the dogs, Literally!  My wife and I work with a couple of shetland sheep dog rescues and its been busy the past couple of days. Found and captured a sheltie that has been missing for 3 weeks, returned to her owner. And got two dogs adopted out after doing thier home inspections. Still many more need homes. Any way enough about that, I got home today to find some "Royal mail" and was happ to find it had some gears inside. Thanks again Brian, theyll work out just fine.  So now im sitting here having a brain fart trying to figure out the spacing for the 6 spokes on the flywheel so I can finish the cad model...


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## jixxerbill (Mar 30, 2013)

Went to the shop for just a little bit this afternoon after painting the inside of the 4-wheeler trailer.. I racked my brain for a bit and came up with this to hold the cam gear.. Its an allen head bolt with the cam gear under it then a nut. Tightened the nut down to hold gear in place. Put bolt thru plate with a washer and a nylock nut to keep pressure on things.. Used an allen wrench to turn bolt/cam gear against end mill to get base circle of gear.. Worked out well..Sorry again for the sideways pic, stupid Smartphone..


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## gabby (Mar 30, 2013)

Looking good


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## ZebDog (Mar 31, 2013)

been away from pc for a while so had a lot of reading to catch up on 
its all looking great people


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## Tin Falcon (Mar 31, 2013)

> Barrie to Wilmington. I love the old New England states. Maybe wife and I will come down your way this summer to check out your Webster.----Brian


Brian you make that trip let me know . I am not far from Wilmington I have several customers in that area. I just got my membership at the Hagley museum . a must see in Wilmington. If you are open to it  we could do a museum tour and lunch as a group. there are several of us not far from Wilmington. http://www.roughandtumble.org/has blacksmith days June 7-8 and the big show the threshermens Reunion Aug 14-17. 

And Brian while Delaware and New Jersey are included in the original 13 US colonies . Any newenglander including my wife will tell you Delaware is NOT in New England.
 New England : An area on the northeastern coast of the US that consists of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Connecticut.Sorry too disappoint you.

Hope I am not derailing this this thread.  brian,  aonemarine and anyone else near Wilmington DE feel free to PM me about the Idea.  
Tin


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 31, 2013)

Tin Falcon--I might just take you up on that. Wife wants to shop in Pennsylvania for a day, and after a winter stuck in the house I need warm sunny weather and a road trip.---Brian


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## aonemarine (Mar 31, 2013)

Brian, dont know what your shopping for, but Delaware is a tax free state. The Mall is right up the street from my house, though usually I dont make it past the book store.... I find shopping more interesting at Harbor freight, and Woodcraft.


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## Tin Falcon (Mar 31, 2013)

Rough and tumble is in Kinzers PA not far from Lancaster  several outlet malls  stausburgh  Railroad and  Pennsylvania RR museum Cornwell furnace......... a car museum ... Hopewell furnace NHS...


There is a flea market near the woodcraft sore in new castle DE and  and a tire rack warehouse nearby  with will call pickup if the buggy need a new set of shoes. There is also a flea market  at the threshermens reunion.

If you do R & T and want to haul a few models with you we can hook you up as an exhibitor and get you a couple gate passes. But you will be expected to  be  at the display table showing off your creations. you can take breaks and see the museum and flea market, blacksmith shop etc.  

Blacksmith days no model exhibits just a couple tool vendors and free admission to all and a slew of blacksmiths demonstrations. 

And if you want a spring trip. the spring steam up @ R&T is May 10 &11 . SSU is a much smaller event than the august one but you can park near the gate it is quieter event but many of the engines are running and you can show your models if you wish but not nearly as many looker as the august show.  The august show you need to park a mile away and ride a wagon to the gate unless you have a special parking pass. 
Tin


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## aonemarine (Mar 31, 2013)

Lets not forget Auburn heights, the stanley steamer museum...http://www.auburnheights.org/


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## Tin Falcon (Mar 31, 2013)

aonemarine: Cool never heard of the place but I am not exactly local. 
say the word and I can break this off into a new thread.
Tin


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## aonemarine (Apr 4, 2013)

I finally managed to get the fly wheel pattern sorted out, and started to mill it out today. Still have a couple more parts to finish making for the pattern and some sanding to do.  This is per Bills request to make a 6 spoke lfy wheel. Took me a bit to figure it out but its getting there.


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## Speedy (Apr 4, 2013)

thats sharp looking


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## jixxerbill (Apr 5, 2013)

That looks cool Aonemarine... Outstanding work !!


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## canadianhorsepower (Apr 5, 2013)

aonemarine said:


> I finally managed to get the fly wheel pattern sorted out, and started to mill it out today. Still have a couple more parts to finish making for the pattern and some sanding to do.  This is per Bills request to make a 6 spoke lfy wheel. Took me a bit to figure it out but its getting there.


 
awesome work look really good

Just wondering is it going to be heavy enought:hDe:


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 5, 2013)

It will be heavy enough when cast in metal. And the heavier it is, the slower you can coax your Webster to run. I experimented with making my Webster a hit and miss engine governed by a 3 ball governor I designed. I have a monster flywheel on it. The "hit and miss" kinda worked---but not so much that I was happy with it. The governor has been removed but the monster flywheel remains.---Brian


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## aonemarine (Apr 5, 2013)

Beleave it or not, It will be  heavier than the one the plans call for....


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## jixxerbill (Apr 7, 2013)

Made the exhaust pipe today.. Just about time to start riding the rzr's again, so time will be getting shorter and shorter in the shop..Bill


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## aonemarine (Apr 8, 2013)

Ok the flywheel pattern is pretty much complete, so It was time to make the follower.... This will put the parting line below the spokes and kept me from having to make a two piece pattern or from coping down. Im put some quick dry primer on it and its drying as I type. I hope to cast tomorrow or the next day. Thats provided the pattern pulls well, if not fome fettling may be in order.


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## aonemarine (Apr 8, 2013)

Ok so im impatient....Deciced to ram it up and check how it pulled, I have a couple of sticky spots that need some work still. Nothing major, just need a minor fillet.  Having a mold rammed up, I couldnt resist melting some metal so what the heck I went for it.  This is the wrond way to pour a casting of this type (Direct pour) which leads to alot of sand inclusions, but it was just for fun anyway...


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 8, 2013)

You sir, are a very talented man. Metal casting is one of the few things I have never tried, and don't expect to, but I certainly admire those who do it.---Brian


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## aonemarine (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks Brian.
  One of the main reasons I got into casting is the scraps of metal available to me. Although they are too small to make anything out of, once melted they can become what ever I want including bar stock. With the price of metals today  its a worth wild investment.   It's also easier to make patterns out of wood then cast verses machining a solid block...most of the time anyways.....


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 8, 2013)

This may not be the fattest flywheeled Webster in the world, but I bet its a contender. I first built this exactly according to plan and never could get it to run with a home brewed carburetor, so I put a Traxxas 4033 model airplane carb on it. Then after I got tired of playing with it, I turned it into a hit and miss engine, as I posted earlier. I have taken the governor off now, but I just thought I'd put this up on a current Webster build so you can see what a truly magnificent flywheel it has.---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Apr 8, 2013)

aonemarine said:


> Thanks Brian.
> One of the main reasons I got into casting is the scraps of metal available to me. Although they are too small to make anything out of, once melted they can become what ever I want including bar stock. With the price of metals today its a worth wild investment. It's also easier to make patterns out of wood then cast verses machining a solid block...most of the time anyways.....


 
:wall::wall: no wonder I was questioning the weight of it :wall::wall:

It look so nice I was under the impression it would be made of wood:hDe:

But I could easely see two split flywheel made with ard wood and filled with lead:fan:

great work


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## Speedy (Apr 8, 2013)

AONE   O MY GAWD that is one nice flywheel 

you guys have left me in the dust with my webster


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## aonemarine (Apr 8, 2013)

Speedy, this one is just to try out the pattern...the real ones will be cast in iron.


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## jixxerbill (Apr 8, 2013)

Dang Dave... I told you I did some casting, but looking at your casting I just do some practicing lol.. Looks great man really.. I need alot of pointers on pattern making I see that now..Bill


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## aonemarine (Apr 8, 2013)

jixxerbill said:


> Dang Dave... I told you I did some casting, but looking at your casting I just do some practicing lol.. Looks great man really.. I need alot of pointers on pattern making I see that now..Bill



Bill,  I've  had all kinds of jobs and learned all kinds of trades. From automotive paint and body, to pipe fitting and industrial composites.  I started casting metal about 5 years ago and I love it!  Pattern making is kind of like doing body work....sand sand and sand some more.  And thank god for tapered end mills!!  
  I get bored easily so I tend to take everything I see apart in my head, looking for parting lines on castings, and injection molded parts. I've seen some very interesting pattern work and just store the info away.  Problem comes when I try to explain things to someone else, I just assume they understand me and I tend to leave out details that are important, or don't explain things well enough.  But now with Cad drafting I can give a visual reference to my thoughts.   If you run into something you need help with let me know.
  Man I ramble on sometimes......


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## aonemarine (Apr 11, 2013)

Ok fixed the pattern up so it pulls very well now. I rammed up the molds today and poured them in Iron, they are cooling down now and I will pull them in a couple of hours. I took a video of the pour and will edit it tonight after I open the molds.
Heres a pic to appease the forum of the mold rammed up.


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## Speedy (Apr 11, 2013)

cant wait to see the video and final parts


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## aonemarine (Apr 11, 2013)

Well since you cant wait....heres a pick of the cast iron fly wheels as pulled from the mold.
My wife is going to be mad at me again...I stunk up the house 
Video late tonight....

Bill Need you to PM me your address so I can mail out your goodies!!


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## jixxerbill (Apr 11, 2013)

Looking good bud... Ill send you my address.. Thanks a million to you and Brian both..Bill


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## cheepo45 (Apr 11, 2013)

Very nice work!
   cheepo45


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## aonemarine (Apr 12, 2013)

as promised....
[ame]http://youtu.be/CbLBiCdgRi4[/ame]


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## Speedy (Apr 12, 2013)

look great thats forsure.


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## aonemarine (Apr 12, 2013)

machined up the flywheel....Man it looks just right on the engine, good choice Bill.


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## cheepo45 (Apr 12, 2013)

Nice casting!
 It polished up really nice. What did you use for raw material?
See you tomorrow at Cabin Fever.
          cheepo45


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## aonemarine (Apr 12, 2013)

The raw material was an old sump pump casting and some cast iron bracket.  I test the scrap by drilling it then rubbing the chips between my fingers to determine how much graphite is in it...Yea real high tech huh?


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## jixxerbill (Apr 12, 2013)

That looks great man...I cant wait to see in person...Bill


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## Teza (Apr 13, 2013)

Sensational work aone, thanks for posting the video
Terry


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## aonemarine (Apr 13, 2013)

Thanks Terry!!  Boy my ego is going into overload  LOL

Bill  Your fly wheel made it to the cabin fever expo....where were you?  Ill mail your goodies out on monday....had to show them off a bit....


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## jixxerbill (Apr 13, 2013)

I would have loved to been there!! My truck just would have been so hard on fuel it was out of the question this year, maybe next year.. My wife wouldn't let me get her car out of the garage just yet, she still worried about another snow and getting salt all over it.. At least she wants to take care of it I guess..Bill


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## aonemarine (Apr 13, 2013)

Bill,   I hope you can make it next year,  it was quite a show.   Now I have to ask myself, do I call out sick tomorrow?  After all its the last day of the show.....


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## aonemarine (Apr 15, 2013)

Bill,  fly wheel and gears are mailed out and heading your way.


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## Gerry Sweetland (Apr 16, 2013)

Aone, thanks for the video, that was awesome!
The flywheel machined up nice too.
Now you got me curious on how to do that at home and where to get the equipment.  And learn how to cast metal.  
I'm off to the casting metals forum and Google to see what I can find out.
You wouldn't want a apprentice for a few weeks would ya 
Gerry


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## aonemarine (Apr 16, 2013)

Gerry its not all that hard to do and the materials can be purchased from local foundry suppliers or from the net. You useually make your own furnace and tools.  If you get on alloyavenue.com you can learn all you need.  On that forum Im DavidF stop on by...


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## jixxerbill (Apr 16, 2013)

thanks Aone.. ill be watching for the goodies when i get home... Bill


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## aonemarine (Apr 19, 2013)

I managed to get some time in the shop today. Turned the crank from a block of 4130. I still have a but more to do to it to finish it up but its basically done. Having a nice cold beer now and sitting here spinning the fly wheel, Man it feels nice and smooth and no play.
Bill did you get your parts yet?


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## cheepo45 (Apr 19, 2013)

Nice Work!
 I haven't even unpacked my motors from Cabin Fever!
 cheepo45


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## aonemarine (Apr 23, 2013)

Got a little more done today, fitted the gear to the flywheel and the pin for the cam gear done. Now i need to get started on the cam lobe. Not sure how to tackle that one just yet. Open to suggestions. In the mean time ill make the points lobe, oil and grease cups, and spacers.
I love sitting here spinniing the crank, I could do it for hours, then again im easily amused.


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## cheepo45 (Apr 23, 2013)

The cam doesn't look too hard. A few minutes on the rotary table ought to do it. Keep spinning that crank!
                cheepo45


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## aonemarine (Apr 23, 2013)

I was being my typical self trying to figure out the hardest way to go about making it. Now I see the obvious.
 If I spin this thing any more ill be replacing the bushings before the first fire up.  Sitting here at work spinning it some more. Lol  its really smooth and the flywheel mass keeps it spinning for quite some time off a single flip.I'm hoping Friday is all mine to play in the shop. I see light at the end of the tunnel!


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## aonemarine (Apr 25, 2013)

I have finished up the exhaust cam lobe, points lobe, spacers, and made a couple of oil cups for the crank. I havent drilled and tapped for the oil cups yet, Im not sure that I like them. It makes the engine look a bit busy.


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## gabby (Apr 25, 2013)

WOW  it won't be long now, can't wait  Brrmmm pop pop brrmmm ha ha


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## vridhisharma (Apr 26, 2013)

Great share thanks for sharing this informative post with us.


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## ZebDog (Apr 27, 2013)

can't wait to see this in action and the oil cups look fine to me.. nice job


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## Lawijt (Apr 27, 2013)

Oil cups looks busy??? NOT AT ALL!!! They look great


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## Paulsv (Apr 27, 2013)

They'd perhaps look less busy if they weren't in brass.  Maybe make them out of steel?


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## aonemarine (May 14, 2013)

Been working on a couple other projects and havent had much time to work on my webster build, but managed a little bit of time today and finished up the rocker arm. Still needs a bit of polishing.....
having trouble getting pic to upload....again!


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## Brian Rupnow (May 14, 2013)

What's happening with Jixerbill's build? I haven't seen any posts from him in a long time.---Brian


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## aonemarine (May 14, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> What's happening with Jixerbill's build? I haven't seen any posts from him in a long time.---Brian



 I think he's been enjoying the weather riding motorcycles...


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## Brian Rupnow (May 14, 2013)

Well, I can't blame anyone for enjoying the good weather. We had two glorious weeks here, beautiful July weather. Then it turned nasty and snowed for a day. Now its trying t get nice again. I'm looking foreword to June.--Wifey and I may go on tour for a couple of weeks. We may come by and say Hi in Wilmington.---Brian


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## aonemarine (May 14, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Well, I can't blame anyone for enjoying the good weather. We had two glorious weeks here, beautiful July weather. Then it turned nasty and snowed for a day. Now its trying t get nice again. I'm looking foreword to June.--Wifey and I may go on tour for a couple of weeks. We may come by and say Hi in Wilmington.---Brian



I'll be looking forward to the visit. Maybe we can round up the local hmem members for a little get together?


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## aonemarine (May 15, 2013)

ok trying again to upload pictures..


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## aonemarine (May 18, 2013)

Yesterday was a fun day, had DReeves and Cheapo45 over for awhile and was working on building DReeves a foundry furnace. Made some progress on the furnace but mostly just shot the ****, demostrated casting, and had a good time. I should have taken some video, but when you have 3 times ugly the camera would have certainally crapped out.
 Today I spent a lttle time in the shop and turned a couple of valves, nothing spectacular but progress none the less....


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## aonemarine (May 22, 2013)

Yesterday I decided it was time to make a DTI holder for the lathe, nothing fancy, but I really should have made one decades ago. It makes life so much easier than using the micrometer end stop.
Today I made the other vavle guid and whittled down the blocks to make the valve chest out of. Tomorrow is another day...

And here we go again!! cant get the pictures to upload!!  GRRR this is annoying!!!


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## aonemarine (May 23, 2013)

and another attempt to try and upload pictures...


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## Rivergypsy (May 23, 2013)

IIRC I think i've got a spare set of those blocks at home that I first op'd on the cnc when I built mine, if you're interested?


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## aonemarine (May 23, 2013)

Rivergypsy said:


> IIRC I think i've got a spare set of those blocks at home that I first op'd on the cnc when I built mine, if you're interested?


 Thanks for the offer, but  Ill have theese done shortly and am making some minor changes to them...


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## cheepo45 (May 23, 2013)

I made a very similar indicator stop last year. It's one of the best tools I made for my lathe. (and one of the easiest to make!)
cheepo45


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## manop (Aug 15, 2013)

Engine frame and flywheel assembly looks great.


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## aonemarine (Apr 7, 2015)

OK, well I guess bill is long lost and im wanting to start another project but I cant bring myself to do that until I finish this one up. So tomorrow Im going to try to find the top of the work bench, get my butt back in gear, finish up a couple straggleing jobs and get this puppy running.
  Cheepo45, ill never pick on you for how long it takes you to build an engine again! LOL


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## aonemarine (Apr 8, 2015)

I did make an attempt at the con rod a couple days ago on the cnc mill.  Still need to tram it in better, but for goofing off things arent too bad.


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## cheepo45 (Apr 8, 2015)

I'm sure a lot of us have other interests and responsibilities that take precedence over our model building activities. I do tend to jump from interest to interest a lot (ocd?). Seeing my latest creation start and run was pretty cool. The cold winter helped a lot, too.
Keep building!
cheepo45


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## gus (Apr 8, 2015)

Hi there.

 Making very good progress and soon we can see the engines running. Meanwhile I am taking my sweet time building the Howell V-2.


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## kquiggle (Apr 8, 2015)

Websters, Websters, everywhere! Looks like there are at least three active threads on Websters right now. 

Just spent some time catching up on this thread - some very nice work going on. Always nice to see how others tackle a job. I had my Webster on the back burner for a while, but got back into it a couple of weeks ago and so far, so good. 

Looking forward to see more in this thread.


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## mattty (Apr 9, 2015)

nice work, enjoying  the posts


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## theonlybigchief (Apr 16, 2015)

Hi fellas,
When I built my Webster, I didn't (couldn't bring myself) to cut the big notch from the base. I'm glad I didn't. I always had a question in the back of my mind where was I going to mount a gas tank. I'm glad I didn't cut the notch because that is where I ended up mounting it. See attachment


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## aonemarine (Apr 16, 2015)

Yea, Im kind wishin I hadnt cut the notch out  oh well too late now....
  Did some playing with the cnc mill and worked on finishing off the valve chest thingie, just a couple more holes to drill. Still learning how to use the cam software but having more computer time than shop time it works out well for me. I was pretty impressed with the press fit of the guides into the valve chest since they were  sprial cut with a end mill and not drilled and reamed, although I need to buy a chamfer mill to break the edge where the flanged part of the seat sits as i didnt get a perfectly square corner on the guide when I turned it in the lathe.


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