# How to use a bandsaw?



## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

one of the biggest upgrades you can do for a bandsaw is to put a good quality blade on it.

Starrett makes wonderful blades and I can recommend them.  They cost more, but last longer.
www.mscdirect.com, has them....they have anything.

Now,

A good place to start for blade speed is the same speed you would turn the part in Surface Feet per Minute.  SFM.
Bandsaw blades can usually run a bit faster than this, but it is a conservative place to start and your not trying to break production records....just not fry a blade.
If you look at one of the files I sent you ( I think) it has surface feet per minute recommendations for various materials.  For mild steel, I would set your cutter or blade speed for 60 SFM or less.

Your Ryobi saw, does it have a slow speed option?....if it's set up for cutting wood it may be 1000 SFM or more!.....you need to check that.

Make sure you choose the right pitch blade. Too coarse a blade on thin stock is asking for teeth to get broken and can be dangerous if it pulls the stock through the table.....and they can do that.
2-3 teeth in contact with the work at all times.....minimum.

Lindsay has a nice book by Delta on "Getting the most out of your Bandsaw and Jigsaw" or some such title.  Good little book on the subject.

Start there and report back

Good Luck!

Dave


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## vlmarshall (Jul 1, 2009)

What about one of those router speed controls... can Zeep add one to his single-speed-bandsaw and slow that beastie down?

Just wondering... because I've thought about getting the same saw. ;D


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 1, 2009)

Thanks Dave,

Upgrade...yes...that's why I bought one online. But there's always the question of what one means by 'quality'. Still...I don't think that's the problem. I will check the link.

No speed control that I can find. So if you're saying I should start with 60 SFM and I'm probably running at 1000 SFM. Oops. Course, I bought this thing before I knew anything (and I still don't know much). I think I'll put it in the garage and start looking for a more appropriate bandsaw.

I'll look for the 'Lindsay' book. Thanks.

I don't think I have the file you're thinking about. I got four...reamers, hardening, lathe tools, and shop-wisdom.

Thanks Dave. 

Just saw your post Vernon. I'll be interested in the answer too. But if I remember, the bandsaw was on the order of $100. Unless the router speed control is on the order of $10-15...then I think I'm better off getting the 'right tool'...if you know what I mean.

Thanks.


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

Zee,

If your saw is a single speed jobber...( just read that) its probably going WAAAAAY too fast for steel......that will kill a blade dead in an instant.  It over heats the teeth and the edge is gone in a blink.

It will cut aluminum and brass alright at that speed....but not steel.

I would get the HF 4x6 horizontal/verticle saw for the metal projects......it's a good little saw for the home shop and they run great if you know how to tune them. I've had mine over 10 years and I wouldn't have the shop without her!  She has three speeds by belt change and goes down to oh 60-70 SFM and up to about 200 SFM.

This high speed is far too slow for wood or even aluminum, but like I said....it's not about max production.
The stand for these little saws is just about worthless.  You'll need a proper cart.  Make it low enough so you can sit on it while you use the saw in the vertical postion.

Here's mine:






If I baby them, I can get about 6 months out of a new blade cutting metal....one oops and I get 1 minute..then I say lots of bad words....it depends.

Dave


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

I would find it hard to believe that you could get a 10 fold reduction in speed out of a router control, though I never used one.  Additionally, I don't know how much torque that motor is going to produce at that speed even if you could get there.  The Hor/vertical saws are worm drive because they need the torque.

So I would say Vernon.....probably not.

Dave


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## vlmarshall (Jul 1, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> . Unless the router speed control is on the order of $10-15...then I think I'm better off getting the 'right tool'...if you know what I mean.



$14.99 at Harbor Freight, so I just skate in under the $15.oo limit. ;D
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060

But, yeah, I'm not sure if it'll give enough motor speed control, either.


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

A starrett bi-metal is a great blade....anybody else got some other blade to share?

Dave


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## Cedge (Jul 1, 2009)

Bi-metal blades, preferably M42 with a 14 TPI variable tooth pattern has proven to be my best friend. Long lasting, tough as nails and they cut like an ape with a straight razor. I'm lucky enough to have a young chap within a mile of my home who custom makes them for CHEAP. Last purchase I bought 4 blades for my horizontal band saw and 3 for the table top vertical for less than $50.00 and he made up them while I waited, after hours.

Steve


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 1, 2009)

Just checked out Harbor Freight.

A single speed (230 SFM) for $80.
A variable speed (0-230 SFM no load) for $90.
A 3 speed horizontal/vertical (80, 120, 200 FPM) for $220. 1HP.
A similar 3 speed for $260. 1/3HP.

Not sure what's really different about the last two.

Being a (wannabe) hobbyist....$90. But that seems pretty darn cheap cheap.
$260? Well maybe before the wife gets home?

At least I have something to compare to.

More posts while writing...

Dave again...thanks.
Steve...thanks. I did learn enough to know what 'variable' means.
Vernon...going to have to watch you. Thanks.

Thanks Dave!


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

I cut through a 6" round blank with that little saw.....took about an hour so I set it up before supper and waited for the "Blink" of the round falling off......my elbow thanked me.


Dave


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## rake60 (Jul 1, 2009)

There is a simple trick to making the band saw blades last longer.

After every use loosen the tension on the blade adjustment a bit.
Not loose enough for it to fall free, but enough to remove all pressure.
When you need to use the saw again, start it up and slowly adjust the
blade tension back up to the point the motor starts to notice.

The weak point in a band saw blade is the weld. 
When you shut a band saw off it will coast to a stop.
Naturally that stopping point will be at a point of highest resistance.
The blade will stop where the weld is just starting to break over one
of the pulleys. That is putting tremendous stress on the weld joint. 
Loosening the tension will greatly reduce that stress.

Rick


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762
This is the one I think......They say it's 1 HP, but they raise small horses in China.... ;D

PS The stand looks decent....it isn't....

Dave


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

Thanks for the tip Rick.....always heard about dropping the tension, but hadn't thought about the weld stress/rolling resistance aspect....I think you spot on.

The reason I heard for dropping the tension was to keep the tires from flat spotting from the blade tension.   Makes the saw vibrate and not track well

The little H/V has cast iron tires, so tire flatting isn't a problem, but it would unload the blade.

Dave


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 1, 2009)

That is a great tip Rick. Thanks.

Dave...did you see the other one that is 1/3HP? If you did...what did you notice as different to the one you pointed out? The price is $40 more for less HP!

Oh...and yes...I have better uses for my elbow.

Thanks.


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## shred (Jul 1, 2009)

The classic 4x6 bandsaw (H/V) is the way to go-- As people say, the stand is flimsy. Mine's still on it, but only due to my laziness and lack of space. The motors have been known to burn out occasionally as well, though mine's been doing well, it's nowhere near 1 HP.

There's a '4x6bandsaw' yahoogroup dedicated to these little things and pimping them out. 

Harbor Freight puts them on sale every month or two for $199 or less, so try and snag it then preferably with a coupon in hand as well.


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

I would say something is phooy with harbor frieght.....both saws weigh the same, and if you've ever carried a 1 hp motor....they ain't light!

Dave


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

Shred,

I put my saw on a roll around base so I could stick it under the bench when not in use......that worked great until I got rid of the bench and bought a big lathe!... :big: :big:

Dave


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## shred (Jul 1, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Shred,
> 
> I put my saw on a roll around base so I could stick it under the bench when not in use......that worked great until I got rid of the bench and bought a big lathe!... :big: :big:
> 
> Dave


Yeah, that would work except I have no free space left under any benches... I was eyeing the roller carts at HF the other day after seeing somebody's posted here a while back, but that still would take up more space than the crap-o-stand does, and it does function to keep the saw off the floor and movable out of the way of the attic stairs, should I need them.


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

Shred.....then that is the proper solution to your shop equation.....everyone's equation is different!


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 1, 2009)

Shred: Thanks for the tip about sales and coupons.

Dave: HF is 45minutes away in a 'no sales tax' state. When I get down there I'll check them out and post my findings. Thanks. All I have to do is wait for a sale to coincide with wife not being able to Skype at the same time there's no important meeting at work and it's a full moon and there's gas in the car! I can do this!

Looking at the last several posts...I might have the full moon working for me...but I haven't gotten out of the basement to look. :big:


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## shred (Jul 1, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Shred.....then that is the proper solution to your shop equation.....everyone's equation is different!


 ;D ;D

Well, I wouldn't call it "proper", merely 'further-down-the-list-of-things-I-need-to-work-on' than what's at the top 

I abuse the little thing (wood, metal, plastic, whatever, mostly all on the same speed) and it still cuts away like mad.


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## steamer (Jul 1, 2009)

yeah I abuse mine a bit too.....I clean it every 4-5 years if it needs it or not.....

Probably should do it more often....mixing aluminum and iron fileings together in the presence of an oxidizer....well...I don't need a hole in the floor.... :big: :big:


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## GailInNM (Jul 1, 2009)

Zee,
If you get into cutting large section steel, a blade lubricant is helpful. I use Castrol Industrial Stick Wax Lubricant. Nothing magic about it, and I have used other brands also over the years and really could not tell the difference between them. It really makes the blades last longer on steel, and the cut goes faster. Just occasionally press the stick against the sides of the blade while running. 

If you eventually end up doing a lot of cutting, brazing your blades up from coil stock can reduce the cost of blades. Even if you don't braze up from stock, it is handy to repair blades that have broken, or to splice in a section if you have a couple that are still sharp but have had a few teeth stripped out.

We had a thread on brazing and welding blades about 6 months ago at:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=305.0

Gail in NM,USA


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## Kermit (Jul 2, 2009)

or you could just use a candle stick and paraffin the same way. 

The wife loves me using her candles, and it makes the shop smell good ;D


My suggestion after buying the CHEAPEST one available is to go ahead and purchase a 1/2 hp motor along with it. You WILL save money by getting it on sale, but they will get rid of some crappy steel called a blade and a crappy something else they call a motor. The bandsaw itself is solid and seems to be a universally used design by all the importers.

Kermit


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 2, 2009)

GailInNM: Thanks. I do have one and will use it.
Kermit: Thanks. I'll probably wait on the motor since HF is close enough to me but I'll take a look at them.


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## mklotz (Jul 2, 2009)

Here's another vote for the ubiquitous, seemingly indestructible 4 x 6 bandsaw.

If, for some reason, HF doesn't work out, ENCO has the 5 x 6 on sale for $220.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=505-6840&PMPXNO=2898792&PARTPG=INLMK3

HF and ENCO discount coupons...

They both seem to send the better coupons when you haven't bought from them for a while.

I signed up twice with them - once using my regular email addy and once with the spam-avoidance addy I use. When I order I use the regular addy so nothing is ever ordered using the dummy addy. It seems to get the better coupons.


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## Peter Neill (Jul 2, 2009)

At the risk of sounding too contrary, my experience disagrees with Steamer and I can state that Starrett are absolutely the worst Bandsaw and Hacksaw blades I have ever used in my life. About as sharp as a brick and last as long as an ice-cream in the Gobi Desert before the teeth go.

I don't have a picture of the bandsaw blade teeth, but I do have one of the hacksaw, but the bandsaw was just the same. You can see from the paint still on the blade that it has had hardly any use.









For hacksaws I use nothing but Eclipse or Sandvik these days.

However, for a 4x6 bandsaw - an essential investment as others have mentioned - you just simply can't beat a Lenox Diemaster 2, which is probably the best blade I have used. It is a bi-metal blade with an M42 HSS tooth edge, cuts beautifully, and lasts forever. I am another firm believe in vari-tooth blades, and I commonly use a 6/10 vari tooth on my 4x6, or occasionally swap it over with a 10/14 vari tooth if I'm doing a bit of contouring, or a run of small stuff. But I don't generally cut any bar below about 5/8" or 15mm with the bandsaw, so the 6/10 stays on there most of the time.
I probably only change the blade about once a year now I reckon.

And it get some hard use too. The 4x6 is a very versatile tool if you're a bit more creative with fixturing the stuff you cut, and it will cut MUCH bigger stuff with a little creativity.

This is a lump of Thyssen Thyroplast 2085 pre-hardened Stainless tooling plate, originally measuring around 450mm x 360mm x 40mm thick, which the 4x6 reduced to much more manageble lumps. Took a while of course, but the same blade stayed on there for another few months even after chopping this lot up.








Peter


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## mklotz (Jul 2, 2009)

Carl,

When it comes to using a bandsaw, a lot of the subtlety is involved with holding the work.

You might want to visit this thread from the dark ages...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=896.msg6026#msg6026

for some takes on how to do that.


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 2, 2009)

Thanks Peter.

Thanks Marv. It looks like those tips were well received.


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 3, 2009)

Zipped down to HF.
Turns out the 1HP model was on sale but they didn't have any in stock.
The 1/3HP is only available online.
Shred was kind enough to put me onto a 20% coupon.

So next week I go down to pick up the 1HP for 44% off! I'm happy.

Surprised they would take the coupon on a sale item.

Forgot to look at motors.


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## steamer (Jul 3, 2009)

...runit till it dies and then get another....it might last 10 years + like mine ;D

Dave


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## Kermit (Jul 4, 2009)

Maybe my motor was built by some newly hired 12 year old, before he had gained a whole weeks worth of experience. ;D <-- that's when they get promoted to building the 1 hp models. :big:


May your cast iron fortune cookie contain better news than mine did,
Kermit


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