# Kel's Poppin Double



## kcmillin (Jun 26, 2010)

I liked the poppin so much I wanted to build another one. 

But I thought, lets do it a little different. How about two brass cylinders. Oooh, a double brass poppin, thats what Ill do. ;D


I actually started making the cylinders a couple weeks ago, right before I got my new lathe, so I was a little pre occupied and could not get pics up til now.

Here is what I started with.






Drilling the hole,





Boring the hole, (This is all standard stuff here, nothing exciting)





Marking out the fins with my height guage.





Now, cutting the fins, Brass cuts like a champ, I am always nervous when I use a parting blade, but It seems like with brass you can ram the tool in and all is well.









Here they are.






Kel


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## kcmillin (Jun 26, 2010)

Last night I got started work on the "Standard" 

It will be made in 5 pieces. Front, Bottom, and the three bearing holders.

 I started with the front of it. 

Here I am drilling all the required holes.





And now the fun part. I see alot of great work on the rotary table and want to join the fun. I seen in one of Deans post a great tooling table and aluminum clamps and all. So I made a table top for my R/T and I am very pleased with it.

Here I am cutting the profile of the cylinders on top of the front of the standard.













I love the rotary table.

Here is the finished (Almost, needs powdercoat) front standard.






I am very happy with the result, and cant wait to get the rest done.

Next up, the bearing supports.

Kel


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## hitandmissman (Jun 26, 2010)

Now that looks like it will turn out great. Looking forward to more posts & pics.


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## Omnimill (Jun 26, 2010)

Nice work Kel, some impressive milling on there. What size Rotary Table do you use?

Vic.


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## cfellows (Jun 26, 2010)

Nice project, Kel. Should be a real nice looking engine!

Chuck


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## kcmillin (Jun 26, 2010)

Thanks Vic and Chuck.

Vic, I have a 4 inch R/T with a 6 inch square tooling plate mounted on it. (This is the first time I used the plate)

Here is a pic.





Kel


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## kcmillin (Jun 26, 2010)

I got the Bearing Supports milled up this morning. I have seen a method of making parts that I always wanted to try.

I started with a 2" x 4 1/2" block of aluminum. I am going to make three slightly different parts. A left, a center and a right.

I began to mill out the recesses needed to get the correct profile on each support. (you will see why later)













From there I drilled the 24 holes required to get the shape I needed.




Now its time to start playing connect the dots with a 3/16" end mill.









Whilst millin' the parts out I was very pleased to see the part "Forming" right before my eyes. 

Here is what I had done in the vise.





Now its time to get the radius on the rear of the bearing supports.

This was even more fun. I got to use to R/T and tooling plate again. 









Here she is, fresh off the R/T.





After that, I just cut out the parts with a band saw.





Here you can see how the profile is different on each part.





Here they are mocked up with the front part standard thingy.





Thats it for now.

Kel


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## Omnimill (Jun 26, 2010)

Thanks for the pic of the RT and tooling plate Kel. It's something I need to get at some point but not sure what size and make to get. Some nice milling work again, I wouldn't know where to start doing something like that!

Vic.


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## ozzie46 (Jun 26, 2010)

Very nice Kel, If I walked away it would take me a week to find my spot again.  :big: :big:

  Ron


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## Blogwitch (Jun 26, 2010)

Kel,

It is good to see people doing experimentation with little engines, and you are doing a great job of it.

It will also allow you to see the effects as well, I played about with crank positions in relationship to each other when I made mine, and got some weird results, but found that the twin does really need to be 180 degs apart. Also, with yours being end induction you shouldn't have too much trouble controlling the flames.

I can't wait to see the end results.

Bogs


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## Deanofid (Jun 26, 2010)

This is coming out neat, Kel! Nice work with the RT, and the cylinders also look great.
You sure move along! (Your pictures look much nicer, too.)

Dean


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## SAM in LA (Jun 26, 2010)

Kel,

Lookin' good!

I like how you milled those parts.

Clever one you are.

SAM


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 26, 2010)

Nice Kel,

I have to think that was pretty nerve wracking.


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## kcmillin (Jun 27, 2010)

Thanks Vic, Ron, Bogs, Dean, Sam, and Zee.

   Ron, I had all the x and y coordinace written down on a piece of paper so I would not loose my place. Once all 24 holes were drilled it was all freehand from there. 

   Bogs, yes I like seeing mods to these little engines as well. Before I found HMEM I was lurking on You Tube and watched your videos. That was a big factor in my undertaking of my first Jan Ridders flame eater. (Thanks For That) After I built my first poppin I made a V-twin based on the same bore and stroke of the poppin. The cylinders were 45 degrees apart and seemed to have allot of power, and would rev to 1400 RPM. I hope this design at 180 separation will have just as much, if not more power. (Well See) 

   Dean, I am very happy to have a decent camera to show my work. I hope it makes my posts more enjoyable too.

   Zee, It wasn't bad until my Y axis cheap DRO reset on me. I had to re-find the edge and hopefully none of the holes were off. It turned out OK though.

Kel

PS, I cant seem to find the right spelling for co-ordinence? It seems so simple, but the spell check does not find the right word, and Google aint very helpful either. Does it even have a hyphen?


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## SAM in LA (Jun 27, 2010)

Kel,

COORDINATES

SAM


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## kcmillin (Jun 27, 2010)

Ahhhhhh, thats it. Thanks Sam. 

Spelling was never my strong suit. 

Kel


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## kcmillin (Jun 27, 2010)

Got some more work done on the double today.

I am making the base out of 3/8" aluminum. After drilling all the required holes and tapping the two mounting screws I wanted to spruce it up a bit.

I used a 1/2" ball end mill to make scalloped edges.









Here is the almost completed base (standard)






Now, I put off drilling the holes into the cylinders long enough. I came up with an idea to minimize the setup time to drill 24 holes. 

I centered the R/T to the mill and set the y axis offset to .422. 

I wanted to drill through the cap and into the cylinder in one setup. So I had to make a clamp to hold them together.

I started with a 1 1/2 " round aluminum with a 1 inch hole through the middle.

I used an end mill to create a flat spot. and then drilled through the required hole size.







Then I used a slitting saw I made out of CRS about a year ago, to make a slot.





I have used this saw many times on aluminum and brass without any trouble.
Not bad for CRS

Here is the finished clamp installed on the cylinder keeping the cap in place.










And everything all together.





Until next time............

Kel


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## Deanofid (Jun 27, 2010)

Looks very impressive as an assembled unit, Kel. Good work!

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 27, 2010)

It's looking great Kel.

You MADE the slitting saw? Wow. Got any info on that?


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## kcmillin (Jun 27, 2010)

Thanks Dean and Zee.

Zee, I made the slitting saw from a 1 1/2" round CRS bar. I mounted it on a mandrel in the lathe and turned it down to the final thickness. Then about a tenth inch in I recessed the sides to create clearance. You can see that in the picture. 

Then I took the whole works, Mandrel and all, and mounted it on the R/T. From there I proceded to cut teeth like portrusions on the blank with an end mill. (I did not use any fancy angles, just what looked good) After I was done, I filed the cutting edges down to a sharp point. It works like a champ for cutting aluminum, brass and wood. (I used the mandrel I made to mount it in the mill also)


Hope this wasn't to vauge of an answer, I just kinda eyballed the whole thing.


Kel


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## SAM in LA (Jun 27, 2010)

Arnold Kel,

My best looking parts are the ones that I make more than once. 

Thank you for the detailed procedures and good photos of your work.

You are performing some complex machining and I appreciate how much thought goes into it. scratch.gif

Thanks for sharing.

SAM


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 27, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> I made the slitting saw from a 1 1/2" round CRS bar. I mounted it on a mandrel in the lathe and turned it down to the final thickness. Then about a tenth inch in I recessed the sides to create clearance. You can see that in the picture.
> 
> Then I took the whole works, Mandrel and all, and mounted it on the R/T. From there I proceded to cut teeth like portrusions on the blank with an end mill. (I did not use any fancy angles, just what looked good) After I was done, I filed the cutting edges down to a sharp point. It works like a champ for cutting aluminum, brass and wood. (I used the mandrel I made to mount it in the mill also)
> 
> ...



Great answer. Thanks Kel.


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## NickG (Jun 29, 2010)

Nice work Kel,

This looks an interesting one. I really needto get back onto mine :-\

Nick


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## arnoldb (Jun 29, 2010)

That looks very good Kel Thm:!

And thank you for the idea on the slitting saw. I presume you are using relatively low spindle speeds with it ?
I have some case-hardening powder that I've been itching to try out, and a saw like yours could really work with that!

Regards, Arnold

Uhmm Sam - Thanks  - Kel's thread though  - he does not re-make parts as often as I have to, so much better to learn from


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## mklotz (Jun 29, 2010)

I buy these for $6 at HF...

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-3-8-eighth-inch-circular-saw-blade-95620.html

although I'm sure they're available elsewhere. Works great. The carbide tips are wider than the blade body so the kerf is wide enough to avoid the jamming so common with slitting saws. Recommended.


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## kcmillin (Jun 29, 2010)

Thanks Sam, Zee, Nick, Arnold, and Marv. 

Sam, I think you got the wrong thread. Thanks anyway though.


Nick, I would really like to see yours get finished. Have you found a new vice yet?

Arnold, thanks for the kind words, although My work isn't without its mishaps. I have been pretty lucky with this one. :hDe: 
The saw I made does work great but I think Marvs Idea for using a wood saw is a even better.


Marv, wow I never thought of that, I have used a circular saw to cut through alluminum channel. but never thought to put one in the mill.

$6 < two hours of work............. ya I think Ill go your rout.

Thanks everyone again.

Kel


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## mklotz (Jun 29, 2010)

> Marv, wow I never thought of that, I have used a circular saw to cut through alluminum channel. but never thought to put one in the mill.
> 
> $6 < two hours of work............. ya I think Ill go your rout.



There's a picture and a few words here...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1952.msg15740#msg15740

While I use it for typical slitting saw tasks, it's also useful for sizing stock too small or awkwardly shaped to be held in the horizontal bandsaw.

So far I haven't broken one but, even if I do, it's pretty cheap to replace.

Take the time to build the holding arbor with the recessed lock screw so you can get down close to the table surface. You'll thank yourself the first time you need to do that.


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## kcmillin (Jun 29, 2010)

Well, I got a few more parts done in the last couple days.

First is the two valve rods.






Next up was the four bushings for the valve rods.

I just got about $600 worth of indexable tooling and holders. This is the first time I got to make something with them. 

This was in particular makes a very fine surface. 





Here I am pressing the bushings into their respective holes with my homemade wooden shop press. 





Here is a shot of the installed bushings.






Next up Its time to make the crankshaft.

I started by making 4 disks out of brass with a 1/4 hole drilled in the center.





After drilling the throw holes, (sorry no pics) I mounted all four in the vice with rods through both holes to line them up. 

I first cut most the material out with a regular and mill.





Then I used a 1/2" ball end mill to make a radius.





Here are the finished crank webs hangin' out with the gang.





Next up I had to make some spacers for the bearing on the crank throw. 
  Here is a pic of me parting them off. (they are .035" thick)






Here is a shot of the crank web and bearing assembly before pressing together.






and the finished crankshaft. (sorry no pics of the pressing process)







Thats it for now.

Kel


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## Deanofid (Jun 29, 2010)

I sure like the way to do things, Kel. Your crankshaft came out really nice!
Just something I thought was kind of funny in your thread; The one little figure in the
shot of the crank throws has a shadow across part of its 'shirt' making the name look
like "Chump". I had to get a second opinion from my bifocals. 

Marv, thanks for the tip on the saw blade. I see in your linked post that the kerf is .050".
Pretty handy.

Keep up the good work, Kel!

Dean


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## kcmillin (Jun 29, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> The one little figure in the
> shot of the crank throws has a shadow across part of its 'shirt' making the name look
> like "Chump". I had to get a second opinion from my bifocals.
> Dean



That is funny. 

I thought the same thing after posting. 

I found these guys in my "Box of Memories" I had to look on the internet to confirm my suspicions of who they were. I found out that they are from a cartoon called "Shirt Tales", I remember very little of this show, aside from the fact that "Punky Brewster" was on around the same time. Ah....The weird things we remember.

Kel


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## SAM in LA (Jun 30, 2010)

Kel,

Nice crankshaft.

Sorry about the mix up between you and Arnold.

SAM


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## Omnimill (Jun 30, 2010)

Nice Crankshaft Kel! Thm:

Vic.


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## kcmillin (Jul 4, 2010)

Thanks Sam and Vic for your comments.

I Did have a slight problem with the crank after I installed it into the bearing supports. I had a bit of a wobble when I turned it, and it was binding in the bearings.

 I managed to get the wobble out of the ends of the crank, but I still have a wobble in the center. There are two bearings which are permanently installed in this space. 

I am not sure what I am going to do with it yet. I have thought about breaking the bearings off and just not having them. It runs over quite smooth without the middle bearing support installed. 



Kel


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## Blogwitch (Jul 4, 2010)

Kel,

These engines have very little power output, so your thought about leaving the centre support off is quite feasible.

Bogs


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## kcmillin (Jul 4, 2010)

Thanks for the encouragement Bogs. I am thinking about removing the bearings, but installing the bearing support to make it appear that there is something there.


 I decided to start work on the flywheels.

I am making them from 2 1/2" steel. They will have a small rim and five spokes.

I have attempted making five spoke rims in the past, and for the most part they were a haphazard just do it approach. But this time I decided to do nit a little different. (for me that is) 

I have a 2D drafting program that is excellent for finding dimensions. So I just drew it up, and found all the hole locations and correct degrees for the R/T. 


First I had to make the blanks. mostly straight forward lathe operation.






To do the rim, I put the inside jaws on the chuck and held it from inside the rim.






Next up, drilling all the holes, I kinda screwed up and got to close to the rim.





Now making the inner holes larger. Due to the limited clearance I used an end mill to make all the holes finished size.





Now I offset the X and proceeded to cut out the spokes with a 3/16 end mill.





Flip the X offset to the other side and finish up the millin.






And here they are, blems and all. 






I plan on sandblasting the spokes to give it a frosty look. (plus then I get to try out my seldom used sandblasting cabinet.

Kel


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## ttrikalin (Jul 4, 2010)

Nice job, Kel!
These look very good. :bow: 
Do you care for the mark on the rim? or is the sandblasting going to mask it?
I have never seen a sandblasting procedure... will google... 

take care, 
tom


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## kcmillin (Jul 4, 2010)

Thanks Tom.

The marks on the rim will be removed with alot of file work. once The lines are out I will sandblast it. 

Kel


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## SAM in LA (Jul 4, 2010)

Kel,

Nice flywheels. I need to try and make a spoked flywheel.

I noticed that you forgot to remove the chuck wrench in one of your shots. 

A neighbor of my taught me that a chuck wrench is always attached to your hand unless you are putting it away. th_rulze

Safe Regards,

SAM


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## kcmillin (Jul 5, 2010)

Sam, ya that wasn't smart of me huh. In my defense I had put the flywheel back in just to take the picture. Only temporary. :hDe:

Kel


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## kcmillin (Jul 5, 2010)

Well I got my blast cabinet in from the garage and I found the media to be quite damp. I gonna have to find a way to dry it, or just replace it. It probobly needs it anyway. It was not working the best, but I did manage to get a quasi finish on th spokes. 

Here is a pic of before and after. It still needs some more work though.





and a quick vid of it in "Action"




Kel


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## kcmillin (Jul 5, 2010)

I got quite a bit done today. 

Here are the connecting rods. I came up with a more standard design, rather than the design in the plans.

After I drilled and tapped the holes in the blank I centered it on the edge of the main bar with the cap off of it. This makes sure the center is perfectly aligned before drilling.






Then drilled the holes.

















Now it is time to make the profile. I started by marking out all the lines with layout fluid. The eyeball is good enough for tis step.

The first milling step will be to mill out the recess in the middle of the rod.
I am using a 1/8" end mill for this with a .010 depth of cut 6 times across to get it 1/16" deep.





Then I proceded to mill out the sides. I am leaving a bit on the end so I can keep it parrellel in the vise when I flip it over.






Then using a 1/4 ball end mill I made the fancy radius on the cap end.









I then took the caps and milled down where the screw heads go.





and here they are after cutting the ends off.





and that is how I do connecting rods.


Kel


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## kcmillin (Jul 5, 2010)

Here are some pics of making the hub and hub nuts.


















Here I am sanding the profile on the cams. Using a hand vice I made really helps holding these things tight together.





Kel


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## kcmillin (Jul 5, 2010)

But wait..........theres more.

I am making the piston out of graphite. 

Here I am setup the cut out the inner part of the piston with an end mill. I am using a dial indicator to get it perfect.










and parting it off.










Kel


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## kcmillin (Jul 5, 2010)

And Even more. I was on a roll today.

Since I am weary of the strength of graphite I made the piston thicker at the top and the yolk will have a large surface aera on it.


Here is the rough shape in the lathe,





Next up, stick it in the mill and drill the hole and make the slot.

I am using a height guage to get the saw centered.





and cutting the slot.





after a quick trip to the sander to round off the end It was back to the lath to part it off.

and here they are





here are the assemblies 





I am using a roller bearing from a 115 HP Yamaha Outboard for the wrist pin. It is a press fit in the rod and a loose fit on the yolk. This is so the yolk dose not crush when pressing it together.





and the completed piston and rod assemblies.





Kel


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## kcmillin (Jul 5, 2010)

Here is a vid of me running in the double with my single. 

The double turns over quite smoothly.

http://www.youtube.com/v/djbI2OfCdaQ&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1

Kel


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## SAM in LA (Jul 5, 2010)

Kel,

Way to go.

Sounds good.

I'm looking forward to its completion.

SAM


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## Deanofid (Jul 5, 2010)

Pretty neatly done, Kel. You sure get right to it, and have a lot finished in a day!

You can really say that your single "does something", when, as so many of us are asked
about our engines, someone says "What does it do?".  It's a production break-in machine!

Isn't it odd how a graphite piston can look so rough, yet be so silky smooth? Pretty
good stuff, and stronger than it seems, considering it's feather light weight.

Thanks for the interesting update.

Dean


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## kcmillin (Jul 5, 2010)

Thanks Sam and Dean.



			
				SAM in LA  said:
			
		

> I'm looking forward to its completion.
> SAM



Me too :big: :big:

Dean, Yes I do often get asked "What do they do? Now I have an answer. :big:

The graphite is some strange stuff, the piece I got has tiny pockets of air in it, you can see divits in the piston in the pic with the rods. It has a weird appearance but it is indeed very smooth. They slide in the cylinder with hardly any friction at all. 

A side note, I got it spinning about 2500 rpm using air power and it has nearly no vibration at all, the side-by-side configuration is quite stable. There was a lot of vibration without the conrod and pistons installed. I was worried about the reciprocating masses, but I feel good about it now. 

Kel


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## wizardofwood (Jul 6, 2010)

This is looking good Kel, all those tiny parts!
I like your flexible coupling in the run in shot, those poppins sure do get up some revs
Byrne


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 6, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> I was on a roll today.



I'll say. Gee.

The spokes look real good to me. That technique is something I want to try sometime.

Looking real good Kel. Didn't seem to take much fiddling.


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## kcmillin (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks Byrne and Zee!

Byrne, yes these poppins are great, very somewhat simple build and incredibly reliable. I have clocked my single at 1300 RPM but is mostly runs at about 1100rpm or so. Great design.

Zee, the flywheels were something I thought to be very difficult, until I tried it that is. A little thought and it comes out nice and easy, just a little time consuming. These two took me a day to make, With a few chillin' breaks here and there.

Kel


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## kcmillin (Jul 6, 2010)

Well a surprise today at work, got the afternoon off, Decided to go in the basement and bust out the valve rods and arms.

I somehow lost the pics off the arm and rods, but here are are some pics of the bearing holder being made. 






and here is the arm assembly. The bearing gets installed by peening the small end of the holder once it has been put in the arm.






 all I have left to make are the springs, but I could not wait to get the thing runnin. 

So... I put the thing in the vice, made the nuts for the valves and made the valves. I hooked up some crude springs to open the valves during operation.


This is by no means a finished engine, I just wanted to see if it would run.

http://www.youtube.com/v/B-J-6xyql94&amp;hl=en


I clocked it at 1450 rpm before things started to come loose and it resulted in bent valves. So I have to make some more of those, its good to have spares, and they are incredibly easy to make.

She was runnin for about 30 minutes all together, It did not get as hot as my single poppin. Does brass take away heat better than steel? 

Still a lot more to do. 

Make the springs.

Make the base.

and maybe a throttle of some sort. Not sure yet.

Kel


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## Deanofid (Jul 6, 2010)

Wellll it just goes and goes, dudinit!
Darn good runner already, Kel. Moving one of the burners away gives you a very effective 
throttle for it, too.

I know the springs aren't the final item, but they do give some additional visual interest,
flopping around down there like a couple of hooked trout. I think the whole shebang
is just better than pie!

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 6, 2010)

Wow! Runs great. Love the sound.
Nice!


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## SAM in LA (Jul 6, 2010)

Kel,

Good job.

Looks like it is a good and smooth runner.

SAM


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## Blogwitch (Jul 6, 2010)

Very nice indeed.

By the time you have everything finished, it will be a stunner.


Bogs


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## Omnimill (Jul 7, 2010)

Great work, and it runs really well Kel! How can these things be throttled back, apart from moving the flame a little? ???

Vic.


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## cfellows (Jul 7, 2010)

Runs great, Kel. Nice work. Makes me want to go back to work on some of my flamelicker attempts that never worked right.

Chuck


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## kcmillin (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks!! Dean, Zee, Sam, Bogs, Vic, and Chuck. I really appreciate all your kind words. 

This is an incredible design for a flame eater engine. My praises go to its designer. Whoever that may be. (I'm not sure who it was, I find a few different names and cannot come up with a conclusion) 

I would recommend it to anyone. I love to just let her run whenever I'm in the shop. A motivational speaker of sorts. 

Finish that part Kel, Quack Quack Quack

Measure twice Kel, Quack Quack Quack

dont screw up Kel, Quack Quack Quack



I have fun ;D



Vic, These poppins can be timed through a wide range of advance with the cam. . It will run anywhere from near 0 degrees, up to about 70 degrees Before bottom dead center. 

If I have her around 50 to 60 degrees she really hums, the single generally runs about 1100 - 1200 rpm range. The double so far has topped out near 1700 RPM but stays steady at 1400. 

If I time it to around zero it will run about 250-350 RPM 

only bad part is I have not found a way to do this while the engine is running. That would be pretty cool. If only there was a way.

Other than timing and flame position I have thought about a "Drag Throttle" 
This would work by friction, I could put a string or something and wrap it halfway around the center of the crank. If I apply pressure to this it will slow the engine down, Just like taking your finger and rubbing it against the flywheel very lightly to slow the engine.



I still need to dry out the "Sand" in my sandblasting cabinet to finish the parts. Not sure how I am going to do this yet. Or if I should just replace it. I can almost make a sand castle with it.

 I really like the look of sandblasted metal, almost casting like. 

Thanks again guys!

Kel


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## Maryak (Jul 7, 2010)

kel,

Apologies for my tardy response, this morning was the 1st time, (for a couple of days), that I was able to view the video. 

Your engine is as sweet as a virgin's breath. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## kcmillin (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks Bob.

No apologies needed. 




			
				Maryak  said:
			
		

> Your engine is as sweet as a virgin's breath.
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob


 

That is mighty sweet indeed. Thanks!!

Kel


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## Blogwitch (Jul 7, 2010)

Kel,

Not about the engine, but your blast cabinet. 

Get a 100 watt light bulb and holder, mount it in a tin can with a few holes in it and hang it underneath the bottom of the cabinet, with the bulb facing upwards, under where the blast medium is. That should dry it out in no time. 

You can buy low wattage greenhouse heaters that do the same job, and are left switched on permanently, to ensure you always have a dry blast medium.

Even though I don't have a cabinet blaster, just a large and small self contained guns, I keep my very fine glass bead blast inside the house, just to make sure it stays dry.


Bogs


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## kcmillin (Jul 7, 2010)

Great Idea Bogs.

Thanks

Kel


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## larry1 (Jul 7, 2010)

Kel, just great work,sounds great, really appreciate your detailed information. Larry1


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## Omnimill (Jul 8, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> I really like the look of sandblasted metal, almost casting like.
> 
> Kel



Agreed, I think it can look quite like a casting as well. I originally set up a sand blaster at home for a crossbow I was building and I can tell you it took quite some time to sand blast virtually every part! Blasting small stuff like this is a breeze!

Vic.


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## NickG (Jul 9, 2010)

Fantastic Kel, well done, I can't believe the power of your single too for such a small flame licker turning that assembly over is a feat in itself.

Nick :bow:


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## kustomkb (Jul 9, 2010)

Nice job Kel.

another beauty, nicely executed!


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## rake60 (Jul 9, 2010)

Looking *GREAT* Kel!

I had missed the test run video with it being powered by the single Poppin.
That is amazing to me. When my Poppin was running it barely had enough 
power to keep it's self going.

Rick


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## kcmillin (Jul 10, 2010)

Thanks Larry, Vic, Nick, Kevin, and Rick!!!.  

Hey that rhymes :big: :big:

I'm still waiting for my sandblasting agent to dry, so have not been able to finish all the parts. I managed to get the springs made today. 

I have been working on a job for a friend. Some new bar mounts for his dirt bike. So I have not had much time to get the finishes done. 

However, I have been running the engine whenever I am in the shop. No real complaints so far, other than the occasional valve replacement, or repositon, its been great. The brass and graphite combo Is a real winner in my opinion. No lube required to keep her running. A real plus for an engine that might sit on someones desk.

Kel


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## kcmillin (Jul 24, 2010)

I have been working on getting the finishes done. I decided against powder coating (mostly because they stopped selling the powder at Sears) and went with high temp paint from the auto store.







I made the base like all the others I have in the past. I used Walnut for the outside and maple for the middle. The entire thing is held together with nothing more than brass pins pressed into the wood. (those are the little yellow dots on the base)







I made the burners from little brass bits in the shop. I wanted them to be adjustable so I put little handles on the so I could turn them.





In the bottom of this pic you can see the "Filler Hole" for the alcohol tank.





Here you can see the under side of the base. I made the tank from sheet brass, and connected the filler hole with some copper tube. I used ordinary electrical solder to put it together.






Here is a pic of the flywheel, cam, and follower.





<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/X_7b6T7D1T4&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/X_7b6T7D1T4&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>

Thats it!............


......for now.

Kel


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## SAM in LA (Jul 24, 2010)

Kel,

What an awesome engine.

I really like the base, the brass pins provide a nice contrast to the wood.

The whole package looks great.

SAM


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## Deanofid (Jul 24, 2010)

Great video, Kel! Music and all. The engine looks just great.
You have a little too much talent for one guy, you know.

The two burners really do make a good throttle device, too.

Thanks! ;D

Dean


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## ozzie46 (Jul 24, 2010)

Very, very nice Kel. Poppins and Sterlings amaze me. 


   Like the wood base too.

  Ron


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## NickG (Jul 25, 2010)

Very nicely finished Kel. :bow:


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## hobby (Jul 25, 2010)

Beautiful design, and build, on your engine.
Very well informative build thread as well.


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## arnoldb (Jul 25, 2010)

That came out great Kel :bow: - congratulations !

Regards, Arnold


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## kcmillin (Jul 25, 2010)

Thanks Sam, Dean, Ron, Nick, Hobby, and Arnold!!
I appreciate all your comments and kind words.

Sam, I am a big fan of brass and dark wood. Just like your beam engine, very nice contrasts. Although when I made the base I did not use any wood saws persay, I rough cut with my metal bandsaw and just stuck it in the mill like a chunk of aluminum and used an end mill to finish the pieces to size. (No room in my shop for woodworking tools)


Dean, My piano mashing skill are a bit sub-par, but I do love to create. I am glad you enjoyed it.


Onto the next project. 

Kel


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 25, 2010)

Very nice Kel. Beautiful job and I like the base too.



			
				kcmillin  said:
			
		

> My piano mashing skill are a bit sub-par, but I do love to create. I am glad you enjoyed it.
> 
> Onto the next project.



Ah, I caught the "Original score by yours truly" and wondered. Nice!

And he next project is?


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## Deanofid (Jul 25, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> Dean, My piano mashing skill are a bit sub-par, but I do love to create. I am glad you enjoyed it.



Kel, if you can pick out your own compositions on any instrument, you're better off
than me. About the only thing I can play is the radio.

I did enjoy it.

Dean


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## kcmillin (Jul 25, 2010)

Thanks Zee and Dean.


Zee, I will answer your question with a photograph. 

Can you guess what it will be?





Kel


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 25, 2010)

I can only be silly and say "A sparkplug"...
But for one thing, it would be done already.
For another, I'm so unsure of myself...maybe it's not a sparkplug. ;D

And it seems I saw a later post elsewhere giving a hint...just a sec...

Ah ha!

"Tiny IC"?


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## Jack B (Aug 2, 2010)

Hi Kel
Great looking engine. Good luck with project of the month.
                          Jack B


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## kvom (Aug 3, 2010)

> an you guess what it will be?



Looks like $0.25 to me.


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## thayer (Aug 12, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> Thats it!............ ......for now.
> Kel



Kel,

It really looks fantastic, and the video is delightful. Make sure you pay for those music rights! 

At the beginning where it is barely ticking over, is it really running from just the heat of the lamp?

Thayer


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## SBWHART (Aug 12, 2010)

What a great looking engine and a real sweat runner.

 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

A great job Kel

Stew


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## kcmillin (Aug 12, 2010)

Thanks Jack, Kvom, Thayer, and Stew.

Kvom, My father would refer to it as "Two Bits" At one time it was the going rate for a shave and a haircut. :big:

Thayer, If you are referring to the part of the video where the camera is flying over the engine. My camera has a slow motion feature. That part of the video was shot at 220 frames per second and played back at 30 frames per second. The engine is actually running about 500 revs per minute or so. 

Kel


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