# Elmer's #43 with Reverse



## JMI (Dec 9, 2009)

Thought I'd make a engine that allowed a minimum amount of operator interaction and after following Zee's saga Elmer's 43 seemed a natural. Plus it let's me try out my newly purchased el-Cheapo Enco 5c collets and collet block set. So far - so good...

Crosshead build:






7/16ths? Close enough:







Drill and ream:





Remove, cut, mount in collet block and indicate:





Finish cylinder head end:




Some more drilling and milling:





Good to go...





Will start on the cylinder next.

Jim


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## Twmaster (Dec 9, 2009)

Sweet! I'll be watching your build.


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## 4156df (Dec 9, 2009)

Jim,
Great start! Keep 'em coming.
Dennis


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 9, 2009)

Looking good Jim! That four jaw chuck will certainly help a lot.

Zee... Zee... wheres Zee? Are you watching?

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 9, 2009)

Well this is neat! Real neat.
I'm looking forward to seeing this build and I'm sure I'll learn a lot.

In milling that piston rod guide (crosshead) it looks like you milled in X, which is what I did. But mine resulted in a lot of metal being pushed into the bore which was really troublesome. Did you cut in one pass? Looks like brass. Is it? Mine was 12L14.

The instructions that came with my kit showed that operation being done from the side. I did it the way you did (well no...you did it better). Any particular reason why you did it that way rather than from the side?

Looking forward to more.


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## JMI (Dec 9, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> In milling that piston rod guide (crosshead) it looks like you milled in X, which is what I did. But mine resulted in a lot of metal being pushed into the bore which was really troublesome. Did you cut in one pass? Looks like brass. Is it? Mine was 12L14.
> 
> The instructions that came with my kit showed that operation being done from the side. I did it the way you did (well no...you did it better). Any particular reason why you did it that way rather than from the side?



Hi Zee,

The engine will mostly be brass. The crosshead is brass. Milled it in 3 passes per side cause I didn't want to distort the piece in the vise so it was lightly clamped, hence the light cuts.
I cut it that way because it looked like the easiest way to get what was show in Elmer's plans. The corners in his drawings are square where if I came in from the side the corners would be have a radius as determined by the mill cutter size.
As far as metal in the bore I cleaned it up with a small file and emery cloth.

Jim


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## JMI (Dec 11, 2009)

Almost done with the cylinder:





Drill the bore:





Size it:





More drilling and tapping:





Inlet and exhaust ports:





Still need to make the other cylinder head. Having lots of fun.

Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 11, 2009)

That looks great!

I thought it was interesting that you used an end mill to size the bore. How does that compare to reaming? Do you expect to do additional operations on the bore like sanding or lapping?

Thanks.


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## JMI (Dec 11, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> I thought it was interesting that you used an end mill to size the bore. How does that compare to reaming? Do you expect to do additional operations on the bore like sanding or lapping?



Zee,

I usually ream the bore but I use chucking reamers and a round column mill and raising/lowering yada, yada, yada got lazy and just used an end mill on the under sized hole. I use "Clover" grinding compound if any lapping is needed.

Jim


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## JMI (Dec 11, 2009)

The cylinder, crosshead and rear cylinder head:






and






Jim


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## JMI (Dec 13, 2009)

Some progress has been made, "steam chest", valve plate and cover. The highlights:

Steam Chest:





Turned around in collet and drilled:





Hollowed out:





In Place:





Valve Plate:





Cover:





All together:





Beginning to look like something and needs to be mounted to it's base.

More to follow...

Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 13, 2009)

Looking great.

What size end-mill did you use for the porting cover? My plans call for 1/32. Yours looks bigger.

I'm actually setting up to do the porting cover right now. If you hear a dim wail from eastern PA...then I broke the cutter.

Great progress...I'm still at a point where I have to think and prepare for a few days before I make a cut. ;D


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## JMI (Dec 13, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> What size end-mill did you use for the porting cover? My plans call for 1/32. Yours looks bigger.



Zee,

As per Elmer's drawing the 2 supply ports are 1/16" wide by 1/8" long and the center exhaust port is 1/8" x 1/8" square.




			
				zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> I'm actually setting up to do the porting cover right now. If you hear a dim wail from eastern PA...then I broke the cutter.



I know what you mean. Those tiny end mill are as pricey as they are fragile .

Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 13, 2009)

JMI  said:
			
		

> As per Elmer's drawing the 2 supply ports are 1/16" wide by 1/8" long and the center exhaust port is 1/8" x 1/8" square.



Interesting...my plan shows .05 by .23....which means...which means...RATS...I screwed up! Ah well. I ended up with .031 by .23. Elmer's plans would be the right one. I suspect my plans were redone by a company so they could sell it as theirs.

Sorry if I'm off-topic...but your thread is a big help to me.


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## JMI (Dec 14, 2009)

Have something for the engine to sit upon:











Jim


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## JMI (Dec 15, 2009)

The column and bearing:






Milling steps:





and sides





indicating bearing:




the job to date:





This is the last post for a week or so. Having lots of fun, wish I didn't have to stop.

Jim


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## tel (Dec 15, 2009)

Coming along nicely


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## JMI (Dec 28, 2009)

Was able to get a few more parts done but it is slow goin'.
Started with the eccentric strap:

Was going to under drill then bore the hole for the eccentric but decided to just drill to size:










and mill:










make the crank:





and the eccentric itself:










the reversing handle is still being made:










Still having fun but it can be a little tedious at times.

Jim


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## arnoldb (Dec 28, 2009)

Looking good Jim !

Regards, Arnold


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 28, 2009)

Looks great Jim.
How did you make that first curve on the eccentric arm?


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## JMI (Dec 29, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> How did you make that first curve on the eccentric arm?



Thanks, Zee

Used a rotary table and a 1/4" end mill.

Jim


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## JMI (Dec 30, 2009)

Finished up the reversing handle:






made boss for handle:










soldered:





done:





It will be about a week before I'll have a chance to get some more done 

Jim


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## Deanofid (Dec 30, 2009)

Sure is coming along well, Jim. Good pictures, too.
It's gonna be purdy!

Dean


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## ChooChooMike (Dec 30, 2009)

Interesting to see different techniques in making the reversing handle. JMI silver soldered the boss/pivot onto the bottom whereas zee machined it all in 1 piece. Different ways to skin a cat. 

JMI - keep up with the pictures, I (and everyone else) love seeing making their engines !!

Mike


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## JMI (Dec 30, 2009)

ChooChooMike  said:
			
		

> Interesting to see different techniques in making the reversing handle. JMI silver soldered the boss/pivot onto the bottom whereas zee machined it all in 1 piece.



Mike,

I looked at Zee's thread and his technique and considered for some time. He did a real nice job of it. Not sure why I did it the way it was done - maybe thought it would be easier. But it turn out well IMHO.

Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 30, 2009)

Credit where credit is due...that was not 'my' technique ;D It came from the (should never be mentioned) manual I was following.

If I remember right, it was even suggested in the thread to make it from two pieces.

I like Jim's approach better. Less waste of material it seems to me.

Thanks for showing the detail Jim. In particular how you cut the mating surfaces.


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## cfellows (Dec 30, 2009)

That's really nice work, Jim!

Chuck


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## JMI (Dec 30, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Credit where credit is due...that was not 'my' technique



_There is nothing new under the sun... Ecclesiastes_

It was "yours" in the sense that I saw it there first. If I was starting from a piece of 1/4 inch stock I would likely have mounted the whole piece on the RT and gone round-n-round till only the boss was left sitting on top. Milling the excess off in straight lines appears to be a cleaner way of getting there.

As for manual milling there is probably not much in the way of technique, if any, that has not already been done.

On the other hand it is almost all new to me  

Jim


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## JMI (Jan 26, 2010)

Well it's been a while since the last post - but I've not been idle. Kinda lost track of the sequence of the build but there are pictures:

Making of the crank pin screws:















The valve rod:





and valve:





Eccentric rod:










Flywheel:










Done:















There reversing gear make a slightly spindly and boxy engine into a thing of beauty.
Will post a video in the other section.

Jim


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## mklotz (Jan 26, 2010)

Very nicely done, Jim. Please accept a virtual salute from me. 

This is an especially useful engine for "teaching" at shows and demonstrations. Most folks don't understand how a D-valve engine works. With a clear plastic cover on the steam chest, they can be shown the motion of the valve and how its position is related to the position of the piston/connecting rod. Also, the exposed reversing gear makes it easier to explain how a steam engine can be reversed, something apparently confusing to the uninitiated.

Another variant of making the reversing handle is to make it from 1/16" plate and drill an oversized hole where the sleeve attaches. Make the sleeve with a 1/16" long tenon that has a diameter to match the oversized hole. Drop in place and solder. This approach makes the sleeve self-locating while being soldered - no clamping required - a bit easier for novice builders.

Elmer calls out slotted crank pin shoulder screws but, for the benefit of future builders, hex-head screws are easier to make and are actually more authentic. Investing in a supply of small size 12L14 hex stock will never be a waste of money.


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## Maryak (Jan 26, 2010)

Jim,

Very Nice work. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 26, 2010)

Beautiful Jim. Nicely done.

I see you cut the threads on the crank pins (I used a die).
I'm with Marv on the cover...it was his engine and suggestion that caused me to make a clear cover. It's been a hit at work.

Looking forward to the video.


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## JMI (Jan 27, 2010)

Thanks guys for the comments and suggestions. I like the reversing handle design that you suggested, Marv. Might be "easier for the novice" but the design is born of experience.

Had intended to replace the cylinder head/valve cover slotted screws with hex head bolts all along:





but as for the crank pin screws I plead guilty to being [email protected] about making parts as close to the drawing/dimensions as possible. I consider it good practice in case I really need to make something per drawing. If time, inclination and material coincide I might remake those pins with hex stock. This provides a good "reason" for purchasing some hex/square 5c collets.
If maximum authenticity was the goal however I'd use studs with nuts in the majority of cases.

Jim


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## mklotz (Jan 27, 2010)

Jim,

I hope you didn't take my comments as criticism. They weren't aimed at you but rather at novices who might consider building this engine.

I empathize with you about following the print religiously. I've been bitten several times when I made spur of the moment departures. OTOH, learning to think through the implications of a design modification is good training for ones mechanical design skills. Don't do it unless you're personally comfortable with it.

I don't have any hex sockets yet although eventually... I use the 3jaw for the larger sizes. For the tiniest on which my 3jaw will not close, I use my Unimat 3jaw held, via a threaded tenon, in the big 3jaw. One can also use a split sleeve in a conventional collet.

Square collets, OTOH, are immensely useful. Elmer used many parts that consisted of cylindrical sections with square appendages. Collets allow one to make such parts faster and more accurately. Highly recommended.


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## JMI (Jan 27, 2010)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> I hope you didn't take my comments as criticism. They weren't aimed at you but rather at novices who might consider building this engine.



I didn't take it as criticism at all. In fact what I was trying to say in a rather clumsy way was your design is superior (born from _your_ experience) and had it occurred to me I'd have done it like that.

Jim


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