# Shay Locomotive



## Dan Rowe (Feb 20, 2011)

The subject of Shay locomotives has been my prime focus for a while now. I have drawn several Shays from the Lima Locomotive Works drawings and have made a scrap bin of failed parts.

The one I am working on now is Shop Number 2800. This was a 10 ton Shay with 2-6"x10" cylinders that went to the Mapleton Tramway in Queensland Australia.






S/N 2800 image posted with permission of the Allen County Historical Society Lima Ohio.

The scale of the build is 7/8" to the foot for G1 track. The Mapleton Tramway was a 2' line that ran in a remote area of Queensland and it serviced the comunity. The book by John Knowles "The Mapleton Tramway" covers the history of this tiny pike very well.

My drawings have been printed in "Steam in the Garden" starting in issue #100 with a double fold out showing all 4 sides in 7/8" scale. Most of the drawings in the articles are 7/8" scale versions of the LLW drawings with full size dimensions so they can be used for any scale. The next issue #114 will have the boiler prints for the two Shays used on the tramway. They had a copper fire box and brass tubes, and were built to the Board of Trade Rules.

I am nearly finished with the articles and I hope to have a lot more shop time to build this Shay. The photos show my work on the frame to date.












Dan


----------



## kvom (Feb 20, 2011)

Very impressive. Worth a karma point.  :bow:


----------



## Dan Rowe (Feb 20, 2011)

Thanks

Here are some of the tools I made to drill and rivet the frame.





This is to drill the frame rail for the cross channels. There are two of them because the top one was drilled to match the LLW plan and I realized that I did not take in to account the fact that the channels I made were thicker than the original plan. The lower drill jig moves the outer sets of holes and holes now match the corner angle blocks.










This one drills the end angles that bolt to the frame and the end timbers.






This one is the drill jig for the running board brackets.






This is one of the running board brackets set up in a small vice ready to drill the bracket and the frame rail. Remember to drill the one with the running board bracket in it not the spare one used to keep the beam square in the vice.










This is the bucker for the rivets that hold the running board brackets. I made two small blocks that matched the profile of the frame rail, then I used the drill guide to mark the rivet location. I then used the ball end mill with a pin vice to make the recess for the rivet head.






This shows the buckers in place set to rivet the bottom of the running board bracket. 

Dan


----------



## shred (Feb 20, 2011)

That is a cute little Shay. Bring yours by the AME meeting sometime too!


----------



## 1hand (Feb 20, 2011)

Very nice Dan,

Makes me want to get back on my loco build. I really like the Shay. I wish Kozo's Shay books where in imperial. I am thinking of switching to one of the geared locos instead. After doing more research since I decided on the A3, I think I would rather build a loco with an attached tender to have a one piece complete loco.

Matt


----------



## steamin (Feb 21, 2011)

Dan, the frame work is looking great! It reminds me of the "Climax" I started 18 years ago. I lost interest in it because of the 1/4 scale CASE I had built previous to the climax start. I was having to much fun going to the tractor shows. I sold what I had on ebay. It was about 70% complete. It finally wound up in CA someplace. I often think about and wish I had it back to complete it and see it run. I and I am sure many others will be following your progress on this build. Again, looking great !


----------



## Dan Rowe (Feb 21, 2011)

Thanks for all the coments. I realized that not much really shows the scale of the build well. The frame I beam was profile milled from a 1/2" square section of 12L14 and it is 0.27" wide. The graph paper I normally set under parts to photograph has a 1/4" grid.

Here is a set of running board brackets for the Mapleton project.





This is the bending and drilling fixture.





The top screw acts as a stop and a clamp for drilling.





One of the firemans side brackets attaches to the underside of the I beam to clear the rear boiler mount. Here is the fixture modification to make the odd bracket. The top double bend with 20ga steel was a bit tricky.





This is both styles of bracket with a small section of I beam to show how the brackets attach. 





Dan


----------



## jthulin (Feb 22, 2011)

You had me at Shay! I will be watching with keen interest...


----------



## 78ths (Apr 10, 2011)

Hi Dan
Any more progress on the Shay?
cheers Ferd


----------



## Dan Rowe (Jun 25, 2011)

Hi Ferd,
You talked me into starting the Sliver City, Pinos Altos & Mogollon RR #5 which is shop number 1928. (My drawing of this Shay is in Steam in the Garden issue #93.)

Here is the frame I did the test piece for. It is 28" long made from 1" channel cut down and silver soldered back to back.





Here is a bunch of hot rolled A-36 steel cut down to make the frame angles and the cross channels for the Mapleton and the Silver City Shays.





I am building 2 Mapleton Shays so I had to make new frame center plates. I started with a lump of 1.25" brass hex and squared it off on both ends with the mill. I used the lathe to drill a hole from both ends then I removed the chuck with the work in place and attached the 5C collet adapter so I could mill the square sections.





Then back to the lathe to cut the round sections and leave a nice long chucking section.





The hex piece was cut off and the rest cut in half to make both sections.





Now to the 4 jaw chuck to trim the ends and add the counter bore.





A drill jig was used to drill the holes to mount the cross channels. The step section is for drilling the channels and the frame angles at the same time.









Here is the clamp I made to hold the channels and the angles for the drill press. Two screws clamp the work and the third one acts as a back stop.





Now both sets of cross channel assembles are finished for the Mapleton frames. I changed the original brass angles in the first one to steel because it looked much better and the steel does not deform with a bit of over riveting as the brass ones did.





Dan


----------



## steamer (Jun 25, 2011)

Oh I'm digging this!  NICE!

Dave


----------



## Dan Rowe (Jul 8, 2011)

More forward progress and a bit of repair work on this project.

I clamped the drill jig using the square as a depth gauge. The brass bar clamp is just a temporary third hand. I set the clamped frame on the first unit to check the layout.





Drilling the frame and the cross frame assembly. I made the jack screw in advanced shop as a cadet.









Then I set out for the second set of holes and drilled frame. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I did the third set and knocked off for the day.
I came back bright and early the next morning and set the new work on the first frame and :wall: I did not have a match.

Well this is a hobby so I can take some time off to work on other stuff then get back to the job after I have gotten over the goof.

It was not the first hole I had made in the wrong place and I was using short lengths of steel rivets to plug the holes and mashing them with my Knipex pliers. I had to use small metal blocks to get past the beam flange, this was a balancing act and a lot of the tiny rivet sections fell out only to vanish forever.

An upgrade for my metal eraser was needed. I made blocks to clamp a section of drill rod to the pliers which can be operated with one hand.









The top beam shows the mashed rivets and the lower beam is the same section of the other beam after the rivets have been filed smooth.





Metal eraser. ;D

Dan


----------



## steamin (Jul 8, 2011)

I to have had to use the ole metal eraser. Just last night I filled two small holes with solder that were in the wrong place. Once painted you will never know they were there. Great job Dan ! I am enjoying the build.

Does your floor eat little parts like mine does ? It never fails. I will drop the smallest of items only to be lost forever amongst the cob webs. That's it, those grubby little spiders are eating my parts :big:

Just in case you have not heard yet, we are having fun ;D ;D ;D


----------



## ShedBoy (Jul 8, 2011)

WOW great work. Alot is involved if you want to catch all the details. You are going to have a shelf full of jigs by the time you are finished. Very informative, I will be following this build.

Brock


----------



## Dan Rowe (Jul 8, 2011)

steamin  said:
			
		

> Does your floor eat little parts like mine does ? It never fails. I will drop the smallest of items only to be lost forever amongst the cob webs. That's it, those grubby little spiders are eating my parts :big:



Thanks for the coments gents.

Larry I think the spiders under my workbench are building something very hush hush. I am not really sure what it is but I know they have been swiping a bunch of tiny parts for what ever they are building.

Yep I am having a bunch of fun. ;D ;D

Dan


----------



## Dan Rowe (Jul 30, 2011)

14 GA fence wire is nearly exactly the size needed for the end timber grab irons, unfortunately the bolt tabs can not be made by simply smashing the wire. I made a jig to drill the flat sections next I will silver solder the pieces.













Dan


----------



## Dan Rowe (Jul 31, 2011)

Here is the silver solder setup.













Dan


----------



## JorgensenSteam (Aug 1, 2011)

Nice work Dan.

Pat J


----------



## Dan Rowe (Aug 7, 2011)

Thanks Pat,

Not much progress but I finished both sets of grab irons and started on the frame brake beams. The brake cylinder that operates the brakes will be made operational but I am not sure how well a tiny steam cylinder will work. My plan is to have tiny drain lines and a spring return system we will see if they can be used for real work or not.






Dan


----------



## steamer (Aug 7, 2011)

Looking great Dan! I'll be watching!



Dave


----------



## Dan Rowe (Aug 16, 2011)

A bit more progress. I made wax brake rod ends that will make a metal pattern for a rubber mold. I also finished the steam brake cylinder today. Those are really tiny supply lines I might have to use air to have working brakes. Now I just need a tiny air compressor that works on a small battery.











The heads of the brake cylinder will be made from round stock and I already have a pattern for the gland flange. 

Time to fire up the burnout oven soon.

Dan


----------



## kustomkb (Aug 16, 2011)

Beautiful work Dan!

Thanks for sharing the journey.


----------



## tomfilery (May 15, 2012)

Dan,

I know you are still posting on the forum and assume you've been diverted to other things, but was wondering if you are still progressing with the beautiful work you were producing on the Shay?

Regards Tom


----------



## Dan Rowe (May 15, 2012)

Tom,
Yes I have been distracted by other projects but I will be making progress on this build when I return home from my family vacation in about 2 weeks.

Dan


----------



## tomfilery (May 16, 2012)

Dan,

Great - I (and clearly others) will look forward to your posts.

Have a good holiday.

Regards Tom


----------



## kentyler (Mar 29, 2013)

I am interested in shays. Any chance of your selling your drawings as a group. I'm not building a working model... so the machining parts don't really bear... but the drawings would be very useful.
thanks
ken tyler


----------



## Dan Rowe (Mar 31, 2013)

Ken,
The drawings I made for this project are all available in back issues of "Steam in the Garden" Here is the link:
http://www.steamup.com/

So you know which drawings are in which issue here are the Lima drawing numbers and titles that were in each issue of the series. 

I included information so this small 10ton Shay could be built in any scale supplemental drawings were included for 2' 3' and standard gauges. The drawings are mostly 7/8" to the foot with FULL size dimensions. I did this so the drawings could be used for any scale or gauge. 

No. 100 July/August 2008
Shop No. 2800 Mapleton Drawing

No. 101 September/October 2008
4305 Truss Rod Pads
4516 Truss Post Head
9607 Male Center Plate No.2
B10317 Front End Timbers Arrg't.
A10463 Drawhead
10912 Quadrant Bracket Set 2
10913 Std. Running Board Brackets Set 1
11065 End Timber Angle Braces No. 6
12442 Truss Post Socket
12443 Truss Heads Line 6
13007 Frame Brace Pads Set 2
13417 Brake Lever Fulcrum No. 3
13508 Steam Brake Cylinder 3"
16725 Frame Layout

No. 102 November/December 2008
4538 Boiler Saddle for 28" St. Boiler
4539 Boiler Pad for 28" St. Boiler
4787 Boiler Pad Clamps Set 17
5361 End Timber Angle Braces Style 1
10351 End Timbers Wood Deck
A10386 Grab Irons
10419 Drawhead
10724 Boiler Pad Clamps
15000 Jack Screws

No. 103 January/February 2009
T875 Grate Arrg't 36" Boot Boiler
3252 Grate Bar Connection Style 12
5370 Grate Shaker Levers Style 6
11810	Grate Details Style 1 Line 13
11818	Grate Details
11825	Grate Arrg't. Rocker 27 1/2" St. Boiler
11945	Ash Pan

No. 105 May/June 2009
Engine Assembly 2-6x10
7200 Cylinder Head Set 4
7400 Steam Chest Covers No. 3
8406.07 Eccentric Straps Set 1
8409 Eccentric--Standard Set 1
8411 Eccentric Blades No. 1
A15502 Bottom Bracket
A15705 Crank No. 58
15706 Counter Balance
317A5001 Cylinder 

No. 106 July/August 2009
339 Cylinder Details
369 Piston Rod Stuffing
5308 Tumbling Shaft Boxes Set 12
5566 Bottom Bracket Oil Cup Cover 
8000 Valve Stem Crossheads No. 2
8203 Tumbling Shafts
8704 Crank Shaft Bearing Details
942A5067 Valve Stem Crosshead
392A5004 Crosshead Shoe
392A5003 Crosshead 
4009 Link Hanger
5058 Crosshead Guide
7405 Slide Valve
7504 Piston Heads
7506 Piston Rods No. 1
7601 Valve Stem & Yokes
7813 Crosshead Pins No. 5
8102 Solid Link
8708 Bracket Brace
8908 Connecting Rod

No. 107 September/October 2009
4335 Tank Ring & Cover
15116 Tank 400 & 500 Gallon
A15139 Tank Lugs Style 4
15158 Tank Grab Irons No. 1

No. 109 January/February 2010
231 Line Shaft Detail
4834 Coupling Ring 10"
8803 Gear No. 23
9163 Line Shaft No. 23 Gear

No. 111 May/June 2010
16006 Special Truck 
242 Truck Casting Details
9802 Brake Heads
9805 Brake Beams
9807 Truck Brake Rods No. 8
9820 Brake Shoes
235 Truck Box
3165 Truck Column
742A5116 Gear No. 17
742A5114 Pinion No. 17
9521 Truck Bolsters
9801 Brake Fulcrums
9809 Truck Brake Levers
9982 Driving Wheel Center--22"
10213 Driving Axle No. 49
10337 Socket Washers
Truck Center Plate Pattern H-6 ½

No. 112 July/August 2010
16033 Truck Plan AB
8818 Gear Bolts
9935 Wheel Center 22"
10213 Driving Axle No. 49
9785 Diagonal Braces & Cross Tie Bars
A9780 Diagonal Brace Bar
9846 Brake Beam Fulcrum
9414 Truck Bolster End Separator No. 2
9255 Truck Box Cap
9420 Truck Columns Set 1
5509 Truck Side Bearing Bases
10153 Truck King Bolts No. 4
A9978 Steel Tire No. 107
9634 Truck Center Plate
9262 Truck Box for No. 23 Gear
A9513 Truck Bolsters & Plates
9534 Bolster & Tie Bar Washer
A9548 Spring Center
9772 Arch & Tie Bars
9835 Brake Hangers Style 4

No. 113 September/October 2010
5354 Truss Post Guides Set 8 & 11
5558 Boiler Side Pad No. 3
9606 Side Bearing
10719 Boiler Pad Set 1
11118 Cab Closed Wood
13246 Plan 1553 End Supplement
13249 Plan 1553 End Supplement
13250 Plan 1553 End Supplement
A15610 Steam Bracket
15614 Top Bracket Supplements

No. 114 January/February 2011
359 Water Gauge Detail
3208 Smoke Stack Saddle 10"
11428 Steam Turret For 28" St. Boiler
11659 Dome Casing 16"
12013 Dome Casing--16"
12702 Fire Door & Details
15447 Boiler 27-3/4" Straight
15459 Boiler 27-3/4" Straight

No. 115 March/April 2011
Reverse Lever Assembly
3228 Diamond Stack Details
4574 Bell Frame & Yoke
4773 Reverse Lever Quadrant
4849 Diamond Stack 10"
5471 Reverse Lever Shaft Stand No. 9
8303 Reverse Lever
8308 Reverse Lever Shafts No. 6
8316 Universal Ball Coupling 
8354 Reverse Lever Details
10000 Headlight Brackets No. 5
10010 Hand Rail Brackets
11420 Hand Rail Post
12534 Bell 25 pound
12800 Exhaust Pipe Elbows Set 2
12802 Exhaust Pipe
12956 Front End & Door
13000 Smoke Box Braces Set 5

No. 116 May/June 2011
12909 Number Plates
12957 Date Plate
3388 Details of 2" siphon
11301 Hose Brackets
3392 Tank Valve
11302 2" Siphon
13416 Brake Carriers
10339 Push Pole Pocket
4307 Foot Board Bracket
652A5136 Valve Rod Gland
A11008 Frame Angles
4145 Side Bearing
A10310 Push Pole Pocket
9535 Frame Spreader (Oak)
13408 Body Brake Connections
13413 Brake Details
12208 Sand Box Rod Handle
12254 Front Sand Box
119 Sand Box
12249 Sand Box Top & Lid
12205 Rear Sand Box
12250 Sand Box Base
3257 Sand Box Valve
12248 Sand Box Shaft Bracket & Cap
12264 Back Sand Box Shaft Lever
12265 Back Sand Box Valve Rod Connector
12266 Back Sand Box Valve Lever
12267 Rear Sand Box Shaft
12256 Rear Sand Box Rigging

Dan


----------

