# Stuart progress in the making



## Lucas1997 (Sep 14, 2015)

Hi all. Been a while since i was on here. Anyway i just started on my new Stuart progress today. I don't own a mill so this will be a challenge, although the Stuart website says it can be done with just a lathe. This will be my first engine made from castings. Any advice is great. Thanks


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## Lucas1997 (Sep 14, 2015)

Just some pics. All i have done so far is face the base and bottom of the frame. I was surprised at how easy the cast iron machined. Also is there any drawings for this engine? The book that came with it isnt very detailed. 

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## 10K Pete (Sep 15, 2015)

No mill? Face plate and 4 jaw! One can be very creative when one needs
to. Looking forward to further posts on your progress! Have you checked
the Stuart web site to see if you can get just the drawings?

Pete


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## gus (Sep 16, 2015)

Now badly addicted to Petrol Engines. Planned to DIY Stuart Steam Engines as they remind me of the steam engines running a nearby sawmill. Will be following your post.


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## Lucas1997 (Sep 20, 2015)

Well I finished the cylinder today. Didn't turn out quite as good as I hoped, as one of the steam vents when all the way through. I think I should work though, if not I will fill the bad part with jb weld. Also worked on the frame a bit 

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## Mechanicboy (Dec 3, 2015)

Lucas1997 said:


> Well I finished the cylinder today. Didn't turn out quite as good as I hoped, as one of the steam vents when all the way through. I think I should work though, if not I will fill the bad part with jb weld. Also worked on the frame a bit



JB weld not good idea...

Use Degussa Brazetec 4003 to fill up all hole who is fault located and drilled.


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## abby (Dec 3, 2015)

Brazetec 4003 has a large cadmium content and I would never recommend it for any home use , It may even be banned in Europe although I can't be sure without checking.
If you need to fill a mis drilled hole in a copper alloy casting use a scrap of brass rod that is a sliding fit in the hole and silver braze (hard solder) with a non cadmium silver solder.
note; some solders may be advertised as "silver solder" but contain only a very small amount of silver and are really soft solder , do not confuse these with hard solder.
They may be great for soldering your speaker connections but not for this repair.


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## Avengineer (Apr 8, 2017)

Lucas, I hope you get around to completing this engine. I for one am looking forward to it.


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## mechman48 (Apr 16, 2017)

Hi Lucas; have just completed this model myself last month, interesting model to build. I found that there was a few chilled spots on the base & the drawing/booklet is confusing as it includes other versions too. A little tip ... save your iron filings, & brass filings into little tins then your can use JB weld / metal epoxy resin bonded with parent material for extra strength, & ends up the same colour.

A few pics of mine..


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## packrat (Apr 16, 2017)

Lucas1997 said:


> Hi all. Been a while since i was on here. Anyway i just started on my new Stuart progress today. I don't own a mill so this will be a challenge, although the Stuart website says it can be done with just a lathe. This will be my first engine made from castings. Any advice is great. Thanks



You can do light milling in the lathe with a milling attachment. What size lathe are you using.?


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