# Smithers Build of Brian Rupnow's IC Engine



## Smithers (Jul 16, 2013)

Well..... here we go, got a lump of 203mm X 140mm X 65mm offcut of 6061-T6 Al from my local steel supplier. Few pieces to carve out of it on the bandsaw tomorrow for the base, both side plates, cylinder head and bearing caps. That will do to start with. Hey Brian , in your reply to my first post in your thread, yes, this is my first engine, but been a machinist for the last 33 years so I think I'll get thru it alright...

Really admire your drawings and design

Andrew


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## Swifty (Jul 16, 2013)

Hi Andrew, looking forward to your build. Are you going to use metric fasteners on your engine?

Paul.


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## Smithers (Jul 16, 2013)

Hi Paul, yes that's the plan, M4 for #8 & M5 for #10, can't believe how hard it is to find imperial 1606-2RS bearings ex-stock here in Tasmania, can get them from mainland Australia for $15 - $20 per bearing, bit over the top, have to shop around over the next couple of days.  Andrew


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## Jasonb (Jul 16, 2013)

May be easier to change to 10mm shafts if metric bearings are easier to get hold of.

You can buy ten 10x22x8 for $10 US

J


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## Smithers (Jul 16, 2013)

Hi Jason, thanks for the reply, just looking at that now, just wanted to keep faithful to Brian's original design, but it is an option.

6000 bearings are 10mm ID X 26mm OD X 8mm wide which is a little closer than 16100 @ 10mm ID X 28mm OD X 8mm.

I'll decide after a bit more googling lol, see what ebay has to offer

Andrew


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## Smithers (Jul 16, 2013)

Hi again Jason, Just read your post again, I can't find 10mm ID X 22mm OD in my bearing books, have you got a number?

Andrew


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 16, 2013)

Smithers said:


> Hi Paul, yes that's the plan, M4 for #8 & M5 for #10, can't believe how hard it is to find imperial 1606-2RS bearings ex-stock here in Tasmania, can get them from mainland Australia for $15 - $20 per bearing, bit over the top, have to shop around over the next couple of days.  Andrew


   Hi Smithers, welcome in the Brian's building group
Their is 2 quality of the 1606-2rs the costly one what the guy quote you
and the cheap one 3.26 a pieces, maybe he should get you those instead
I'll be following


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## Smithers (Jul 16, 2013)

Hi Luc, maybe I should explain myself a bit more... I buy bearings each week as a production manager at an engineering workshop here in Tasmania for various jobs we do and for machinery breakdowns, I was just a bit shocked at the price of such a small standard deep groove ball bearing compared to standard metric sizes of much larger "name brand" size. Yes, I'm with you Luc, will always buy the "better" brands rather than Chinese bearings.

Andrew


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## Jasonb (Jul 16, 2013)

Try 62900

E-bay has them for RC cars which should be good enough for this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-10x-2...888?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item416fb0dc10


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## Cogsy (Jul 16, 2013)

Smithers said:


> Hi again Jason, Just read your post again, I can't find 10mm ID X 22mm OD in my bearing books, have you got a number?
> 
> Andrew


 
Andrew - The SKF part number for a 10x22 is 61900. Have fun with your build, I'm hoping to start on this engine again soon, once I fix my lathe


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 16, 2013)

Hi Smithers. Very glad to see you posting. All the best of luck and success to you, and may you have fun building this engine.---Brian Rupnow


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## Jasonb (Jul 16, 2013)

Cogsy thats a 6mm wide bearing brian specs 5/16" so the 8mm is closer though its unlikely to matter either way


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## Swifty (Jul 16, 2013)

Andrew, seeing that the project is based on purchasing the 2 bearings, I would decide what bearing is readily available and work everything else off that. All other sizes for machining can be worked around this, 3/8" or 10mm shaft will not be a problem, so long as other parts that fit are changed to suit.

Paul.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 16, 2013)

I used 3/8" plate for the sideplates because it is readily available in Canada. I chose a 5/16" wide bearing because that would have been a good fit in the plate and still leave a 1/16" thick wall when bored from one side. The shaft should be 10mm at a minimum, because these flywheels are quite heavy.---Brian


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## Smithers (Jul 17, 2013)

Thanks for all the input guys, as the 1606 bearings were too costly and had to be freighted, I decided on ex stock "6000" bearings (10mm X 26mm X 8mm wide). I know OD is around 3mm bigger but don't really see an issue. Got them for $5.00 AUD per piece, quality Nachi ones.

No time to get on the bandsaw today to carve up the aluminium block for first few pieces, hopefully tomorrow.

Andrew


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## Smithers (Jul 18, 2013)

I managed to carve up the block of aluminium into some  pieces off the bandsaw at work today, roll on the weekend, time to make some swarf. ;D

Andrew


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## Smithers (Jul 19, 2013)

Quiet afternoon at work, so why not make a start on the base. Sorry no machining pics, just 16 mm thick material, held in a vice by 2mm, profiled, drilled, countersunk and tapped then flipped over and faced to 0.500" thickness, all done cnc

1 down.....heaps to go, how may parts are there Brian?

Crappy weather here, if its no good tomorrow I'll go to work and profile both side plates by cnc, maybe even the cylinder head, then onto a deckel FP2 for all the other holes/threads that I cant do in the profiling operation.

I am thinking of putting the base, side plates & cylinder head on a jig borer to accurately locate the dowel holes for alignment, plan is to have dowels a size for size fit in the base and a sliding fit in the side plates, whilst have a size for size fit in the cylinder head for a sliding fit in the side plates. In my head I am thinking of assembling the side plates & cylinder head, then placing that assembly on the base.

Hope you like the pics.

Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 19, 2013)

Lovely work Andrew. I think in total there are about 72 parts, but that's counting gears, carb parts, valves,--everything.---Brian


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## Smithers (Jul 19, 2013)

Thanks Brian.... 71 to go then, hopefully 68 after the weekend. By the way, I am going to do the water cooled version.

Andrew


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## Path (Jul 19, 2013)

Andrew,

Great cnc work ... looking good!

What CAD CAM are you using?

I'm very interested on how you mill the bearing holes

Looking forward to your progress, I'm getting closer to starting.

Pat H.


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## Smithers (Jul 19, 2013)

Hi Pat, thanks for the compliment.

No cad/cam for this part, just a written txt file uploaded to the cnc, after all
it is really only a rectangular part with corner radii and some holes.

I have attached the program I used to make the part, note though there are a lot of "T17" tools. This was because I only had 3 spare pockets in the magazine due to running another job yesterday. Just do one operation then change the tool, do the offset and restart the program for the next operation.

Definitely not a production program, but for 1 part it worked well.

Bearing bores will be milled 1mm undersize then finish bored after the base, side plates, bearing caps & cylinder head are dowelled & bolted.

Andrew 

View attachment O5700 RUPNOW BASE.pdf


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## Path (Jul 19, 2013)

Neat ... 
I used to do my own g-code programming ...but finally started to use a CAM program.

It's not clear to me about the bearing hole just yet ... maybe a photo when you do it would help. I think I will do a practice hole and see what happens. 

Interesting G-code ... the Feeds and Speeds are about the same that I was going to try ... that is if speed is RPM.

Well it's about 7:15 pm Friday here and your Saturday afternoon is just starting (should be 12:15 pm). So have a great weekend.


Pat H


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 7, 2013)

Andrew--This is just a drop in to say Hi and offer up a word of encouragement. I am currently "breaking new ground" with my CDI ignition that I have purchased. ( I don't believe that my engine requires a CDI to run it, but I have always wanted to try one.) Cheers mate, keep up the good work. I will probably repeat this message to all the others who are building the Rupnow engine.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 23, 2013)

Andrew---Whats happening? I hope you are well. You got off to such a great start on the Rupnow Engine, but we haven't heard from you in a while.---Brian


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## Smithers (Sep 6, 2013)

Hi all,
Sorry, few weeks off to deal with work commitments, family etc. Back now, I'll make another start on the project after the weekend.
Time to spend an hour or so going through the posts to see how Brian and everyone else building this engine is going.

Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 7, 2013)

Andrew--Glad you are back. I thought we had lost you.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 14, 2013)

Smithers--We are looking foreword to seeing more of your marvelous work. My engine is finished, Swifty fron Australia has his engine 99.9% finished, Gus from Singapore  and Cogsy from Australia are neck and neck (actually Gus may be a bit ahead). Canman from England has fallen far behind because of lack of equipment and impending marriage, Rivergypsy from England ? seems to have abandoned the project until he finishes the "Entablature" steam engine, and Luc from Quebec, Canada has been so busy making money that he hasn't had time to work on his engine lately. Pat Hutcheson from California keeps making encouraging noises but hasn't started a post about his build. Wagnmkr from Lindsay, Ontario has said that he may start to build one when he returns from his holiday in England. We don't have any builders from Asia nor South America as yet.---Brian


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## Smithers (Sep 14, 2013)

Hi Brian,

Still a bit slow in resuming this build, have been doing a bit of cad on the parts but no swarf!! Will be ordering the ignition parts today along with sparkplug and boot (same as yours and Swifty's).
Think I'll just put the feet up today and catch up on all the posts.
Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 26, 2013)

Smithers--I've got my fingers crossed for you.--I've never had a machinist friend in Tasmania before. Looking forward to seeing some more of your build.---Brian


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## Swifty (Sep 27, 2013)

Andrew, I was very happy with the ignition, a neat set up.

Paul.


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## Smithers (Oct 10, 2013)

Hi guy,
I must apologise for the lack of posts in the last few weeks, in the absence of swarf I have been modelling Brian's engine to ensure what I am thinking will be correct. In a previous post I mentioned I was going to dowel the side plates and cylinder head to the base for alignment, I am still going to do this and have attached a pdf of the model to show what I am doing. I cannot believe I cannot publish exploded pdf's in Alibre so hopefully the 3 pages will give the idea of what I am going to do.
Basically 1/8" dowels locating the side plates and cylinder head to the base and hollow dowels (6mm diameter) locating the bearing caps to the side plates.

I also had a delivery from the post man today, the CDI for this engine. I was going to get it from where Brian and Swifty bought theirs but found this site in Western Australia http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop/ignition-systems.html

Excellent service, $98.30 AUD, ordered Wednesday morning, received package today (Friday), couple of pics attached. The only other thing I had to by was the battery holder and 4 2500mAh nickel metal hybride batteries at a cost of $21 AUD.

The only real changes I have made so far from Brian's original design is the hollow dowels for the bearing caps, increased centre distance for the bearing cap mounting bolts and the slight profile change to the caps. 

View attachment rupnow engine assembly.pdf


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## Swifty (Oct 11, 2013)

Hi Andrew, the PDF is looking great. I haven't bothered with dowels at this stage, the bearings will align the caps, so the dowels there may be a bit of overkill. I found that once I assembled the bearings, side plates and crank, everything was lined up anyway.

Paul.


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## Smithers (Oct 11, 2013)

Hi Paul, Yes you are right, it is a bit of overkill but I just wanted them there for the final boring of the bearing bores after the individual parts are roughed out. My idea is 1mm undersize on bores, assemble base, side plates, head & bearing caps then bore the bearing bores.

Haven't been on here for a while, I'll catch up on some reading on everyone else's build.

Andrew


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## Swifty (Oct 11, 2013)

Just thought that I might mention that the alignment of each side of the crank is of course critical. I just made sure that each of my flywheels were the same diameter, and when I bolted them together I had them sitting on a surface plate and against an angle plate as well, so they were aligned in 2 planes. This method worked out well.

Paul.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 11, 2013)

Smithers--I am very happy to see you posting again on this engine. We currently have 3 running around the world, Canada, Australia, and Singapore. It will be great to follow one coming to life in Tasmania.---Brian


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## Smithers (Oct 11, 2013)

Hi Brian,

Glad to be back!!

By the way, Tasmania is a state of Australia.

Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 11, 2013)

I see that in your address.--However, to me Tasmania is a strange and exotic place on the opposite side of the world, and deserves mention in it's own right.  All I really know of Tasmania is that it was at one time a penal colony for Great Britain, and it is the only place I know of that has its own personal devil named after it.--That's probably about on par with "Everybody in Canada is a lumberjack or fur trapper, and they all live in igloos".---Ya gotta love that good old 1950's public school education!!!---Brian


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## Smithers (Mar 6, 2014)

Well, after a long absence I am back, into work tomorrow for the side plates and cylinder head, have a better camera now so pics should be better.
BTW Brian, how many engines worldwide now,
Regards, Adrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 7, 2014)

Smithers--Very happy to see you back. There are still only 3 running Rupnow engines around the world that I am aware of, but a new one has been started and is being worked on by Pat Hutcheson in California. Someone calling himself Krankie Frankie has apparently started to build one but has never started a post about it. I don't know if Gus in Singapore ever got the governors working on his or not.---Brian


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## Path (Mar 8, 2014)

I'm still here, trying to post whenever I can ... should be this weekend.

Glad to see that you are making progress ... looking forward to some
pictures with you new camera. What one did you get?

Pat H


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