# 1 / 8 Scale Galloway Build



## BobsModels

Hi

I thought I would just start a thread on an 1/8 scale Galloway build. That way folks could share everything on one thread.

I am about a day or so from taking everything apart and starting to paint the model. As I have mentioned in previous posts, I have redone all but a few of the drawings in 3D Alibre. I am working with the current owners to take over the drawings once I have the engine running from the new drawings. They will be on 11 x 17 and in general be drawn 2 to 1 so you can see the part. With luck this should be by May. I am going to focus on getting the model completed and running first then go through and clean up the prints. I can only assume you would be able to get a set from the current owners after I turn them over to them.

I will start by posting my latest pictures and as time permits I will post construction pictures from the start of the project.

I do not get on the internet often but will check in here whenever I do. 

Bob


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## BobsModels

Ok
I guess I need to learn how to post more than one picture at a time. Which I just figured out. 
Just a little info on the pictures. The block that the model is mounted on I used so I could get back to to any demension and keep everything squared up. All the base machining was done on that block. The casting could be removed and replaced. The disk is a small flywheel mock up so I can fit everything and see what is what without the flywheel being in the way.

Bob


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## CMS

Looks really nice and thanks for sharing. I've a 1/4 scale I'd like to start building but need to get a few other projects done first. I'll be looking forward to any updates.

Craig 
.


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## gbritnell

Hi Bob,
I am currently working on the same engine. Having built all of the other scale Galloways with their drawing problems I didn't expect anything less from this one and I wasn't disappointed. For instance, the connection rod. The dimension for the mounting lug on the big end say .200 wide while next to it the bronze bearing cap also says .200 wide but they are not drawn the same in the picture. The mounting lug is thinner and when you take the dimensions for the 1/4 and divide it in half they don't match up. What did you use?
gbritnell


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## BobsModels

George

See attached pictures. I added two parts with JB weld to make the casting "correct" and used the drawing demensions of .328. This was suggested by another builder.

bob


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## BobsModels

Hi

For those with running engines any scale Galloway. I am about to build the gas tank. It is above the mixer. I am going to have a shut off on the tank. During runing does the mixer leak gas or flood the engine due to the tank being above the mixer?

Thanks

Bob


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## BobsModels

George

Not sure I answered your question.  After I fixed the base casting all the demensions on the width of the connecting rod big end are OK. I made mine .232 per the drawing. I redid the connecting rod to a round rod.

Bob


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## peatoluser

Bob, I really like the look of that block
is it shop made?
what are the dimensions?
it looks extremely versatile
yours
peter


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## kuhncw

Hi Bob,

I have a 1/4 Galloway that I built. I've had no problems with the fuel tank being above the mixer. 


My hat is off to you guys who build the 1/8 scale Galloway.


Regards,

Chuck


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## gbritnell

Chuck, 
The 1/8th Galloway doesn't have the same type of carb as it's larger brothers. The large engines have a Lunkenheimer replica with a control valve inside them. This is for shutting the fuel off. The 1/8th just has a small vacuum type mixer carb that if put below the fuel level will leak through the needle valve because of the head of fuel in the tank. If the fuel valve were to be turned on and the engine started right away then the carb could be adjusted for the fuel flow from the tank, but should the engine stall then the fuel would leak through the needle valve and out the bottom of the carb. 
Bob,
No, you didn't answer my question. I am attaching a PDF of the print in question. All the red circles represent erroneous dimensions either by themselves or when compared to a 1/4 scale engine.
The question I had was in regard to the connecting rod where it meets the brass bearing on the big end. You will notice that dimension is .200 while right next to it the upper brass bearing is also dimensioned as .200 but are not drawn the same width. When taking the dimensions from the 1/4 engine they don't scale by half to what is shown on this sheet. 
If you glance at the other circled items you will see that they are blatant errors that were never fixed like the clevis for the pushrod has a 2-56 thread while the pushrod has an 6-32 thread and the thickness of the pushrod is not listed. Over on the rocker arm bracket it has a bored hole of .421 while the O.D. is .335. 
I know all of these things can be solved but why should the builder be burdened with hours of calculating while trying to build an engine that's been around for some time. 
gbritnell


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## BobsModels

Hi

I am down to the home stretch and I am looking for a demension in order to build a case. As I have mentioned I am going to build the saw rig so the case needs to be big enough for it. I figured out the length of the saw rig from pictures. I cannot get a width. 

Could someone tell me the width across the wheels for the 1/3 scale cart ? From that I can figure the 1/8 scale.

Best would be someone with the saw rig respond with the actual demensions.

Thanks 
Bob


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## BobsModels

Hi
Well I finished it up on Saturday and tried to run it. Got it to run for about 30 seconds and it was 9pm. Sunday I adjusted my Lunk mixer spring and the gov spring and off it went (with a whole three days to spare before leaving for NAMES). Went through three tanks of fuel. It still runs rough but needs break in and more spring adjustments. It is fine for NAMES and I need to build a temp base today. Later needs striping etc.

I will get my build pictures together over the next month or so.

Bob


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## zneb

Hi ,All I just finished my 1/8 Galloway and I'm having trouble getting it started .It is not getting gas .My Question is what size music wire should be used for intake valve?I will try to include a Photo.


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## BobsModels

Zneb

Nice looking model. Nice to see one more. Which drawings did you have? If you have the ones I sold to ministeam then the size is on the drawings, at least it should be, it is I just pulled up the sheet.
It is .008, .350 long, on a .125 arbor 9 wraps. Length is sized at assembly to fit under your retainer. That is what is on mine. It must be very lite weight and not rub on the interior of the rocker arm holder. Check for clearance.

Do you get fuel on your finger if you choke the mixer?

There have been several mixers used on this model. This may also be
an issue in your model ie the size of the venturi.

Are you comeing to NAMES?

When I get home maybe we can talk on the phone.

They do run, one model in Iowa has been running for a number of years, it was the first. Mine and George Britnells were running last NAMES. And I have been told there is one on the East coast running.
The one in Iowa uses the mixer per the drawings, mine uses a working Lunk type mixer with a valve, George's uses a modified venturi mixer similar to the drawings. 

Bob


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## zneb

Hi, Thanks for coming back .No I'm not going to NAMES .Getting to old .I bought the castings from Liney I think about 2 years ago ..There were so many Errers on the drawings that came with it that I thought The Spring Size May Be wrong too..I get fuel on finger when I prime .It also will drip Because the tank is kind of high for that type of mixer.On My drawings it shows a bushing Placed in bottom opening of mixer to make it smaller is that correct..I made the Ignitor over 5 times and could't get it to work so I gave up and put a spark plug in back with a hall senser..Probably a big mistake....I have nice compression But for some reason It don't seem to be taking in fuel..I made 2 other engines from bar stock and didn't have any trouble getting them to run ..I had them running at a local tractor show and I guy offered me $1000 bucks  for one so I sold It .Thats when I bought The Galloway.castings.I won't give up ......


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## BobsModels

zneb

Yes the prints were bad. I redid the entire engine using Alibre and then built it from those prints, every part with one exception. I made a working Lunk style mixer as should be on it, and is on the other three versions of the engine. I sold the prints to Liney.  The engine performs well and I am pleased with it, today it ran from start of show to end with one stop that I made to oil it.

With a venturi type mixer you need to get the tank down so the top of the tank is not higher than the needle. Depending on how well the mixer you use draws you may also need a check valve in the fuel line.
Yes you need a venturi in that mixer to increase air speed to draw fuel and atomize the fuel.
At NAMES last year, along with my running engine there was another working 1/8 scale with a spark plug in the Ignitor space. It used a cdi ignition firing from a hall effect pickup. It also had a venturi type mixer but different than the one in supplied drawings. His fuel tank was built into the base casting with the fuel line coming out the front to the mixer. 

I may have some pictures of that model, but not with me.

Here are some links to George's engine build

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/1-8th-galloway-another-one-17144/

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f14/1-8th-galloway-finally-running-17437/

Bob


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## zneb

Thanks So Much Bob ,for all the Info .Back out to the shop and start over .I'll keep in touch I'm sure I'll need more advise..Gary H


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## zneb

Well I redid the fuel tank ,"Lowered It" Put in check valve ,Made new spring for intake valve." The right size" and rechecked timing .When I spin with make shift starter it will fire and try hard to run by itself but won"t take off on it"s own.I think the mixer is off somewhere so I'm going to make one of My own .Like I used on My bar stock Engines.I checked with Liney "PM Research" and they have a 1/8 scale but it's not for Galloway Engines .Any ideas would be helpful ..Thanks Gary H


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## BobsModels

Zneb

I think you  are on track with the mixer.  George used a modified version of the mixer.  Not sure what you mean by not take off.  Does it flood or fuel starve?  Most likely fuel starve, and you need a stronger venturi.  I am in my house now and not in the shop.  I think I have a drawing of the mixer George used on his and will try and shoot you a copy.  His ran just fine.  There is at least one other I know of using the mixer from the prints and it runs ok although he may have restricted the air flow.  Did you try covering the air intake a bit ie choke it?  Does run any better that way?

Bob


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## zneb

Hi bob,
    Well I still can't get  it to run .I think now its getting to much gas.I'm wondering if My drawing are right on the size on the intake mixer .Mine say drill 1/8 and tape 3/48..Is that what you guys are using.I also found a leak in the head and ordered a new one. {working on that now}.Thanks Gary H


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## gbritnell

Hi Gary,
I'm attaching a PDF drawing of the carb I made. It's not the best drawing but everything is there. 
gbritnell 

View attachment CARB ALTERNATE.pdf


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## zneb

Thanks Bob I go with this .It will be the answer I'm Sure    Gary H


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## BobsModels

Gary

That was George that sent you the drawing, not me

Good to see you are plugging away. I am attaching a picture of one of
the first ones running, you can see the fuel system and as I recall
he told me he built the mixer to the drawing.

Bob


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## zneb

Thanks George.I'm a bit connfused where the needle valve go;s .are there o rings there because it seems to go through the fuel supply.Also from Bobs photo the fuel tank needs to be above mixer [Gravity Flow} right..Sorry I'm so dumb but I need to get it right.We have A big show coming up in Chilton Wi. and I would like to get it running by then..Glad there are folks like george and Bob who are willing to help us out...Thanks Gary H


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## gbritnell

There are no O rings used on the carb. The fit is tight enough that the fuel won't leak. The fuel supply does in fact go through the needle valve, well at least the tip. I'm attaching a video clip of the engine running with my carb. The top of the fuel level shouldn't be above the needle valve with this carb. With the Lunkenheimer carb it can be above as that carb has a built in check valve but with the small size of everything it takes some very precision machining as Bob can attest to. 
[ame]http://youtu.be/mby5cKT0Cg4[/ame]
gbritnell


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## BobsModels

Gary

As you can see from the photo I posted and Georges explination, the venturi type mixer needs the fuel tank low enough so it does not just drain out through the mixer.  Too bad you are not a little closer too me.  You could stop by.  I live in NW ILL about 5 miles south of the Wi border.  Keep at it it will go.  Do you go to the Baraboo show?  They have a model building and lots of modlers bring engines.

Bob


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## gus

Great looking engine and very good paint work. Please post video when you get running.
I am putting finishing touches to Webster IC Engine and be trying to get engine going.


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## Brian Rupnow

That makes 3 of us all trying to get engines going---or keep them going. Good luck to all of us!!!---Brian


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## gus

Hi Brian,
Let me quote this------------"Birds of the same feather flock together". There is no Chinese eqv quote.
Translating this to Chinese will be tough. There is a Chinese quote picturing loving couple as two birds together in a forest.

Now to Biz/work.

Busted the cylinder lubricator while turning over the engine . About to machine replacement.
Make the leaf spring. Then come tomorrow start &  run.  Hope my neighbours won't come running in with a battle axe.


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## zneb

Bob ,Brian ,George ,Gus and anyone else interested,  I just discoverd My intake valve is leaking.What do you guys use to set these small valves.I've tryed everything I can think of and it still leaks .Even made a new valve .I also found out when I spin with make shift starter It shoot fuel out of the carb {mixer}.Timing appears to be right on.My fuel tank is now below mixer and has a check valve in line..I've made 2 other small engines and never had such a hard time getting them to run.When is the baraboo show I'm thinking maybe I should Go .I never was to that Show but our club displays big time at Chilton Wj. show in aug. and I need to get this runing by then..Thank To All Gary H


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## Brian Rupnow

zneb--Valves in small engines are an absolute curse. I find that the answer is #1--make the valve seat as small as possible. I try and aim for about .015" x 45 degrees. #2- Make the angle on the valve face 92 degrees included angle.--(see my details for valve and valve cages on "Rupnow i.c. engine with governor"). I lap first with 350 grit oil base carborundum lapping compound, then with 400, then with 600.  I was told that the best way to totally seat the valves was to  hook the engine up to an electric motor, turn on the engine ignition, turn on the engine fuel supply, and make whatever adjustments are necessary to get the engine firing while it is being driven by the electric motor. The pressure created by combustion in the cylinder will finish "seating" the valves completely. I tried this approach on the engine I am currently building and it seems to work miracles. Of course, if it is shooting air back thru the fuel tank, I think you need to do more lapping before you try this approach. That's all the knowledge I have to give you.---Brian


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## gbritnell

zneb,
Sealing valves is one of the biggest problems on these small engines. I never cut the seat while I'm machining the valve pocket and guide. I make up a tool to do this. I'm attaching the PDF drawing of the tool. I hope this helps you out.
gbritnell 

View attachment VALVE SEAT CUTTER and INSTRUCTIONS.pdf


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## Brian Rupnow

I have made and used the tool George shows, and it does indeed work miracles. I forgot to mention it.


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## gus

Hi Gurus,

Thanks for the advance notice. Did have a gut feeling that valves wee bitty leaky which spun over.Gus should be starting engine anytime this/next week. Now admiring my work and cleaning/polishing base and frame.Will reassemble and wire up ignition etc. Meanwhile taking it easy before 'D' day. Got stuck reading/clearing mail today. Watching the market & $$$$$$.


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## BobsModels

Gary

The Baraboo Show is aug 16-18.  There is a model building where you can come and show your engines.  I am planning on coming on Friday for the day and being some models for display.  If you bring models for display, there is a vendor exhibitor entrance you should use.  Bring the Galloway!

http://www.badgersteamandgas.com/index.html

Hope you can make it

Bob


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## zneb

Hi Bob<  Well I  got Time to work on My !/8 Galloway again and found the problem, I think .I took the Fuel line off and spun it with My Make shift starter and after a bunch of spinning it started to run..{Firing and Trying to Run}.The needle valve was open a very little bit.I closed it tight and put fuel line on ,Primed it 1 or 2 turns by hand and turned with starter.Nothing happened .So I toke fuel line off again and spun a few times and it started to run again.Now I'm thinking the hole in bottem of carb is to small {not Enough Air} So I drilled it a little larger .Not touching anything else I spun with starter nothing happened, Even when I chocked it a little,.So I took off fuel line and after spinning awhile it started to run again...Does anyone have a Idea as where to go next..I checked the size of the needle valve hole and I'm right on there.It has something to do with fuel I'm quite sure.. I;m leaning to making the carb hole bigger for more air and less fuel what do you think ? Our Chilton Show Is this WK end ,So I;m getting antzzy. ..AS far as Baraboo I;m still not sure I can get There. Thanks for your help to everyone   Gary H


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## Jasonb

Do you have a vent hole in the fuel tank?


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## gbritnell

If you take the fuel line off and it starts to run then that means it was drawing too much fuel and was flooding. If it starts with the fuel line off then quite naturally it's getting enough air so I wouldn't enlarge the air hole. With these tiny carbs the needles are very sensitive, sometimes just a minute turn is enough to go from rich to lean. I would turn your needle in until it bottoms, then open it no more than 1/4 turn. Try starting the engine. If it does nothing then open it 1/8 more and try again. At some point you will hit the sweet spot and it should start running. The size of the venturi only controls how fast the engine will run. The fuel is always adjusted to whatever size venturi you have.
gbritnell


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## BobsModels

Gary

I agree with  George.  Let me make sure I understand what you are doing.  You apply fuel with needle open and it will not start.  You remove fuel line which is equivalent of closing the needle and it starts off.  Let me tell how my engine normally starts when cold.

I open the needle about one turn (my needle is 112TPI) and flip it a few times -  90% of the time it does nothing.  I then close the needle valve and flip it a few times - 90+% of the time it starts.  I let it hit a few times to clear it out and open the needle - on my engine I open it 1 1/2 turns until it gets warm and then close it a little let it run for awhile close a bit again until it wants to stop, then open a bit and it usually runs until it is out of fuel.  If I keep filling the tank  on the run, I get it to run all day no stops.

Sounds like you need to do as George says find your sweet spot, and I think it will run.  If you used Georges' carb I would try my sequence, but just open it  slowly as George says.

This engine, at least mine floods real easy so by closing the needle letting it clear out the fuel is the trick.

Good luck

Bob


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## zneb

Hi.Again ,Well I couldn't get no where with the fuel tank Low so I put It Back Where The Drawing Shows.After Trying all of your Ideas I find The Needle vale seems to be off some where.If I open 1/16 turn it still floods out.close the valve and it will start and run for about 3 seconds and stop.If I open just A touch it floods out .could the hole in needle be to large.


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## BobsModels

Gary

If you put the fuel tank high it will flood all the time.  Did you try the sequence I sent you with the fuel tank low?

I am curious to know if it did anything like I suspected.

Bob


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## zneb

Hi, Again .Yes when I put the tank low It will only draw fuel when I prime It " finger Over Hole" ..I raised the tank and Made a smaller orfice and Needle valve and now it will run for about 30 seconds and stop.Sometimes it will restart with first hand spin. run for same time, and sometimes I have to open valve a little ,but then I have to put back to previous setting to run good but then 30 seconds or so it will stop again.I'm useing a 4.40 needle valve I now think I need one with more threads per inch..I didn't get it to The Chilton show ,but still planing Baraboo . Gary H


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## BobsModels

Gary

I will be there only on Friday in the model building, hope you can make it that day.

Bob


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## zneb

Hi Bob , Well I finally got it running I will post a video as soon as I get a chance .After lots of adj to needle valve today it ran for about 10 minutes .Ran pretty good.I didn't make it to Baraboo . Some time I'd like to meet you guys maybe next year ..Talk to you later..Gary H


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## BobsModels

Gary

Great news, congratulations on getting her to go.   I look forward to the video

Bob


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## zneb

Second time starting and trying 2 get it to run longer then 10 seconds.It finely ran for about 10 min and stopped ,It restarted on first spin and ran about the same length of time.I will add a better video with better contrast when I get a chance.


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## zneb

The video didn't work Don't know why.........


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## zneb

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_v8LhP60Ui4&feature=youtu.be


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## zneb

I guess I was Doing wrong...It sure is noisey on that video ...Thanks for everyones help .Gary H


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## BobsModels

Gary

That was great, nice to see another one running.  

Bob


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## Lawijt

The engine runs great.


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## gus

zneb said:


> I guess I was Doing wrong...It sure is noisey on that video ...Thanks for everyones help .Gary H



Hi Zneb,

Great engine and great engine music. Hopefully my Hit & Miss will get to spin by end September.
w/o governor initially. Bought CDI for it.  Missed out the magnet which I will order today.


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## BobsModels

Hi all

I started this thread way back when. I have some info that might help builders of this model. As you know I redid all the drawings for Ministeam and they now own them. They asked me to get their engine converted from the spark ignition to an ignitor, and using their carburator with the elevated fuel tank. Thanks to the excellent work of Gary on trying the same thing and providing me information I experimented further and got everyting working. The engine, ignitor, and carburator were available to me from Ministeam after it was delivered to them and they got it painted. The original builder (George Britnell) just decided to use a spark plug and his carburator design.

No modifications to the ignitor, or fuel tank. 

The changes to carburator/mixer are as follows.
The nozzle as shown on the drawing needs the jet hole changed to a 
a #79 (.0145). The feed hole from the other end needs to be a #76 (.020). Depending on how you machined the main casting you want the jet end to be .020 short of the center line of the air chamber. To maintain contentricity the 8-32 must be single point threaded on the lathe.

The needle needs a more change. Ideally you would want more than the 40 threads to the inch, if you can make your own tap get it up to 100 or more. On my engine I have a working lunk with 112 threads.
What you are going to do is get a #10 needle (.018 diameter). The threads need to be .570 long under the head. You need to have the needle end sticking out .230. Make the cutoff needle about .440 or so. You then drill a #75 (.021) hole in the end or the needle holder the depth to have the .230 sticking out. In the case above drill .210 deep. Again you need to do this in one setup - drill the hole, turn it down .570 and single point the 5-40. Do not use the jam nut called out, instead make a spring so as to keep tension on the threads. Using 640 loctite (slow setting 30 min) put the needle in the needle holder. Then clean threads no excess loctite. Thread into the casting and into the nozzle carefully not real tight just snug. Let sit overnight.

You now have the carburator/mixer that is on the engine in the video. You MUST turn the mixer off when engine is stopped or it will drain the tank! You could put a shut off valve on the tank - better solution.

This setup floods easily, so starting is a bit tricky. I choke it with a turn or two, shut the valve off and kick it on. On this engine it takes 2 - 2 1/4 turns to run nice. 

One other issue for builders. When you press the sleeve into the use loctite 640, it is for a press fit and seals well. Also use this when inserting cylinder into the Base. The slow setting property lets you align the cylinder perfectly.

Here is the Ministeam engine :

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU0e4kePvxs&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

Ministeam does not have the updated prints yet, I felt getting this out might help. I will be providing updated prints to them in a week or so, and I am sure it will take about a month before they get it incorporated into their system. So do not call them for a bit for an updated carburator print.

Bob


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## gus

Great engine built by a great meister. Runs smoothly.The Hitting & Missing very steady/smooth. 
Hopefully ,now that all the encumbrance caused by bad housekeeping on my work bench banished,Gus will have total peace of mind to get the ''Hitting & Missing'' on his Rupnow engine now long overdued.


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## zneb

Hi Bob and All of you,
  I want to build a mixer like you did  for there engine ...Mine runs pretty good but still stops for no reason at all. will start right up on first try ..Where can I get the castings for that carb ...Thanks Gary H


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## BobsModels

Gary

The casting is the one that comes with the Galloway Kit. I just made the nozzle and needle different from the existing drawings.  I submitted all of the drawing updates to ministeam yesterday.  

Bob


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## BobsModels

All

As I was running the Ministeam Galloway and explaining my changes to several folks, I got an input that I want to pass along. In addition to the changes I made the person who has much experience in engines suggested that if I put a loop in the fuel tank it would force the engine to actually use the vacume of the venturi to pull the fuel up the height of the tank. As it stand now all the fuel forms a pressure on fuel line. The loop would go from the inlet at the bottom up to near the top of the tank and then back down to the bottom.

One more thing to experiment with, if the tank was not complete I would use this suggestion if building the tank from scratch.

Bob


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## zneb

Hi Bob ,
          I rebuilt the carb to your spec"s .But now I can't get it to even fire..Got any Ideas?  The only thing I know that is different is the size of the thread on the carb is 3/16 instead of what the drawing calls for.The hole through is according to drawings.I'm now thinking I don't have enough  bevel on the part where the # 79 hole is drilled. "orifice ". another Question How much clearance do you have between piston and head at top dead center..I have about 1/8 of an inch, might be to little..Just looking for some new thought's on My problem .Thanks Gary H


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## BobsModels

Gary

Without taking it apart I have .375. I measured from the bottom of the piston when the crank is at BDC where it comes out to the head end. That was 2.5". The piston is .875 and the throw is .625 ( travel 1.25" total) 2.5- .875 - 1.25 = .375.

I also pulled up my 3D model which has all the parts and moved the piston to TDC made center view and measured the distance and it came .377.
The distance from my Crank Pin Center to Wrist pin center is 2.5". From top of piston to center of wrist pin is .5 

Gary I attached a PDF file for you to look at it might help, you just need a reader.

I did not put any bevel on the fuel exit hole. The needle will slowly form a seat when you shut the fuel line down.

How much of your plug is uncovered?

Bob Nawa 

View attachment Gary Cutaway.pdf


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## zneb

Bob, did you get my reply...??


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## zneb

Hi Bob , thanks for the new info..My distance between head and piston is .168.... My piston is 1.079 in length .The other measurements are all within a couple thousand . Do you think this could be My problem ? I thought it would give me more compression.The bevel I meant was on the part sticking in the carb not the orfice..Gary


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## BobsModels

Gary

 I really do not know if that would be a problem.  Your compression must very high when you roll it over.  At a high compression once it missed firing once it would have very few chances to get it on a second go around.  The high compression would just stop the engine.

 I do not think the bevel is the issue.

 You said you did not get it to fire at all.  Did you place your finger over the air intake to choke it to make sure you had fuel in the mixer?

 Try that to insure fuel.  shut the needle off and then see if it fires.  If it does you may need to open the needle quick to keep it going until you find a spot where it runs.

 Have you swapped mixers back to see if the original  still runs?

 Bob


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## zneb

Yes Bob I tryed the fuel thing and ton's of other things.I made the piston the right size and now have it ready to try again. For some reason it didn't help.The old carb is on a different engine and works fine..I decided to take out plug and run it in for awhile and just discovered I had no spark at plug..After checking I found a bad hall senser.This may have been going bad for some time and causing my problems slowly a little bit at a time" Why Engine would run for a short time and stop,and start right up but stop again after about 15 seconds almost every time" So now I have to waite till I get the new hall senser...I'll let you know what happens then..By the way if you know anyone looking for small taps and dies "K ans S Engineering US Made good Quality " I have some new in box for sale cheap  0-80,1-72,2-56,4-40 and 3-48...A hardware store here closed and I bought all they had left.Also some tap and die handles. There on E-bay also. Thanks for your help Gary H


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## barnesrickw

Price on the taps?  


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## zneb

Taps are $3 and Dies are $5  ,plus shipping..I will sell 1 tap and 1 die for $10.00 Including shipping...Thanks for your interest


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## barnesrickw

I will get back with you.  I still have a bad habit of breaking any tap smaller than a 6-32. 


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## zneb

After closer looking I find the Taps and Dies are not Made In USA,but sold by K & L of Il. Sorry for bad info ,but they are very good quality...


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## zneb

Not K & L it should Be K & S of  Il. I can't type either Today I guess


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## zneb

Hi bob and all interested .I replaced the hall sensor  and still no action .I turned the part that the needle valve seat is in  out 2 turn's and got it to fire if I keep turning it over .It will not run on it's own .I turned it in a little ond out a little more but seems to be of no more help.all other dimensions are as per drawing now... I've got to get it back running by the 4th for a show .so I'll have to pick up my pace some ..Any ideas will help Thanks Gary H


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## BobsModels

Gary

Been away so just saw your post. Well I am stumped. I have one suggestion and I have used this with an engine when first starting them to get things adjusted. I have an adaptor that fits on an electric drill. It is 6 - 2" diameter rubber washers, see picture. It can crank the engine and most times if it is firing at all it will finally take off. I can then fiddle with the needle , choke etc. I am guessing you have something like this or that is what you mean by "keep turning it over".

I am just going to dump a bit of ideas for completeness maybe it will trigger something, does it flood if you choke it ie fuel on your finger. Do you notice a difference in fuel flow if you open the needle way out. Is the fuel line your original or did you use that small one I sent, if so might want to switch back, maybe too much restriction. How is the compression ie does it still "bounce". Have you changed the plug. 

One other thought. How tight is the intake spring? I really made mine light as my first one restricted fuel flow. It only needs to be strong enough to barely hold the valve closed. 

That is about all I can think of, it still sounds like a fuel problem.

Bob


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## zneb

It;s the pest again ,well I got it to run for about 5 seconds too maybe the longest was 20 seconds.It usually has to be primed one turn and it will start right up again.It don;t run real good when it does run speeds up and then seems to be needing more fuel barely turning over.I can hear the intake valve noise when it does run .when I open the needle just a tiny tiny bit it floods out.If I shut the needle tight then and turn it over about 3 or 4 times it starts up again.I was going put a little stronger spring on but maybe it's to strong now for some reason.My needle valve threads are 5-40 I think I'll double check that...Any further ideas to add to this info .there must be something I'm missing.Gary H

Needle valve is 1-72


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## zneb

Well I finally got the 1/8 scale galloway running good.It was lots of little things that needed better adjusting.Thanks for everyones help .,Now I'm working on the 1/6 scale galloway.Going to try and build one of each scale...Going good so far .....


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## Cogsy

zneb said:


> Going to try and build one of each scale...


 
I'm eager to see the 1/1 scale build


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## BobsModels

Gary

Good to hear you got it going. I have been out of commission until the last two weeks. My 1/8 got a sickness and has not run for several months. I finally got it figured out. I made a new electrode for the ignitor. In addition the governor system got out of wack somehow. I made some new springs and re loctited the timing gear on the shaft. I am at a 5 day show and it ran for 5 hours today. So I think it is back on track.

I look forward to seeing the 1/6 scale. You should start a thread on it, especially since you are building all of them.

I am working on a 1/4 scale hot air Rider. There are two of us running a thread over on the Model Engine Maker site.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3441.0

Good Luck

Bob


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## zneb

Hi, Everyone  Well I have started on the 1/6 Galloway and need help with the MIXER..The drawings don't seem complete as far as explaning how far to drill and actually how it's assembled or how it works.If anyone has more info on this I need some advise.I don't know how to start a new thread .I guess I need permission...Thanks Gary H


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## gbritnell

If you have the new drawings from Ministeam they show the mixer on sheet 8 with all the dimensions. As far as assembly goes the needle valve assembly screws in at an angle on one side. The check valve goes in from the top followed by the check valve limiter/intake tube bushing. Once the check valve is in place a light spring, washer and cotter pin is installed. 
If you find anything missing on the drawing please let me know because I'm the one that updated the drawing for Ministeam. 
gbritnell


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## BobsModels

Gary

 Please do start a thread.  Just go to the main page for engines from castings:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23


 There is a button "New Thread" just above the thread list, just push it and you are off and running.

 Bob


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