# A Jan Ridders Duo



## fcheslop (May 17, 2012)

Hi,I must open this by thanking Jan for making his drawing so freely available.
I don't usually post my builds partly because I am not very good at explaining and also I am just an amateur machinist so if you can see anything wrong or better ways to do a job please chip in
The first part I decided on was the central support Oh I forgot to say no doubt I will be going of drawing purely on the aesthetics and to use what stock I have :big:just cannot help myself
I like to build my engines in blocks so started with the Central support and roughed it out





I dont like deep parting so on with the chuck board and a bit of keep fit with the hacksaw




I then gave the base a little recess 




The next part to be made was theTumbler support again just a simple step turning job.I use HSS tools but never use any top rake for alloy is that the right way it seems to cut well for me ?




The finished supports they only need a final polish up 




Then onto the cylinders the material was just long enough so they will be finished turned on a between centres mandrel then the mandrel will be used to give the bores a light lap
The cylinders were rough drilled then bored to size




The mandrel was then turned up and the pre bored cylinder super glued on




The OD and then the fins turned thats the bit I hate as a thinner fin always stands out like a sore thumb but the gods were on my side for a change




The bores were then given a light lapping using smokers tooth powder just to take any high spots of




Next up the cylinder head it took me a while to plan out the sequence of machining 




Theres a head in there some where




The little mounting strip was next up nothin special just an oblong with a few holes




The head material was milled up to a 10degre angle I made two so they can be put back to back for milling and made them 4mm wider so that once the rads are milled on they canbe gripped in the mill vice without brusing them

best wishes frazer


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## rhitee93 (May 17, 2012)

Thanks for deciding to share this build Frazer. Looking at the shots on photo bucket, I'd say you make some nice looking parts. I'd love to follow along on your build.

Hopefully one of the more web savy people will chime in to help with the photo posting issues. On my machine, all i have to do is hover over the image in photobucket until a box pops up. One of the options in that box says something like "Direct Link". When I click on that option, is copies the link to the picture. Then in the HMEM edit window I click on the insert image tool. (The one next to the YouTube button) and past the link between the text that shows up. (Ctrl-V to paste)

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## fcheslop (May 17, 2012)

Cheers it was me the computer dummy :big:


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## speedyb (May 17, 2012)

one thing is for sure.... that is a great looking Lathe you have!


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## dgjessing (May 17, 2012)

Cool - I'll be following along!


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## lazylathe (May 17, 2012)

Excellent!!!
This is going to be a good build to follow along with!!!

Andrew


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## fcheslop (May 17, 2012)

Thanks gents,another episode sorry for the break but have to keep the wolf from the door or at least stop the beggar from having pups on the carpet.
Oh that was it the head.The block was roughly milled 3 t0 4mm over sizes then at the centre of the flame holes 4mm holes reamed to use on the set up.The 10 degree angle was milled I haven't shown the set up as no doubt it will cause a lot teeth sucking :big: :big:as my kit is very basic
The high tech edge finder in use




A simple jig was made the jig then clocked in and the heads milled into the block just don't forget to add the cutter dia :just as well I had two pieces.








The cylinder bolt holes were next to be drilled




Then another simple jig to bolt the cylinder to the head so the holes could be spotted through




then onto my crude tapping stand




As the rotary was on the mill i decided to put a little detail onto the end of the support




The parts have had a rough clean up and temp screws fitted








Thats about all for now I have started on the beams but need to have a think about the main bearing assy as again it will be of plan.The engine has been made from alloy as it works very well on the Duclos engines time will tell
That's about all my one finger typing will take must learn to use at least two
Many thanks for looking in
best wishes Frazer


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## fcheslop (May 24, 2012)

Hi again, on with the beams/tumblers they are made from 2mm brass and I decided to fit ball bearings to the cam followers the bearing came from some unused router cutters at the best price free :big:




After a little shaping they were given a rough clean up and the ends formed using filling buttons as Iv never been able to file a decent rad free hand








The beam/tumbler bearings have been made a press fit to save soldering and some simple knurled nuts made to fix them to the beam




The bearing pins were turned up and given an oil black finish just because I like it :big:












Next up are the 1/8 cross pins that hold the springs I use some simple alloy L jigs to help hold these and a drop of oil holds them well enough to stop them dropping out when tightening the machine vice








Then the bars are hard soldered into the beams using a small pre formed ring of solder as it makes a lot neater joint well it works for me as when I have a long stick of solder in my hand they wobble about like a one handed fan dancer




And the joint phew




The beams have had a rough clean up












Looks like I have a date with the hacksaw.I am still procrastinating over the main bearing assy but like the the look of the P.L version on Jan Ridders site




Many thanks for looking in 
best wishes Frazer


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## Jeremy_BP (May 24, 2012)

Nothing to be ashamed of there, that looks amazing! Keep up that momentum!


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## Blogwitch (May 25, 2012)

Very nice post you have going here Frazer, very well shown.

I have worked with Jans plans a fair amount, but do take notice of ALL the suggestions he makes. Sometimes one tiny detail that he mentions can be the cause of the engine not running.

If I was to make this one, once all the pieces are made, I would get each side working individually before running them in unison. 
The settings for a flame licker can be absolutely critical, and just getting one to run can be a bit of an achievement. What you don't want is one to be a none runner stopping the other from working as well, hence the tip of getting them set up individually first.

Keep up the good work, and also keep that friction to an absolute minimum.


John


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## fcheslop (May 25, 2012)

Hi Jeremy,Thanks slowly eating the elephant although work will stop for a few weeks as the weather has picked up and I have a few toy boats need painting after cutting 36 1/16 mortise and tenon's.
Hi John, Many thanks for the info I am well versed in the vagaries of these engines :big: and Jan has e mailed a few extra points but I would not have thought to put them on this build so please feel free to add any other useful tips at any time as its a learning curve as I find it difficult to communicate effectively
I do have a couple of concerns about the engine although plenty of them run superbly 
1 the flame path is very long compared to others
2 the weight of the tumblers
The plan is to use graphite for the valves and maybe the pistons so I may have to alter the head slightly to allow for a locking nut and I cannot think how to machine the cams its locating the crank pin in the correct position as my kit is limited but I usually scrape bye :big:
Thanks again
kind regards Frazer


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## Blogwitch (May 25, 2012)

Frazer,

If you get stuck for obtaining some graphite, I do have a little spare, and I can send you a lump to make all your bits out of. But you will need to cut it up and shape it.

Just send me an email with your full name and address included.


John

BTW, if you need help on how to make the cams, just ask. Dead easy if you have an RT for your mill.


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## fcheslop (May 25, 2012)

Hi John, thanks for the generouse offer I am OK for this build but may come cap in hand in future :big: 
If any one is looking for good quality graphite have a look in art shops as they sell short lengths of various grades I usually go for HB or H.If I get stuck with the cams I will give you a shout I just need to think them out not my strong point :big:
thanks Frazer


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## lazylathe (May 25, 2012)

Hey Frazer,

I have quite a bit of graphite at home.
Will be cheaper for me to send some your way when you need it!
Just let me know!!

Andrew


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## Blogwitch (May 25, 2012)

Andrew,

I don't think so, Frazer is from the UK.


John


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## lazylathe (May 25, 2012)

Oops!!
I saw Cleveland and thought he was in the States. :-[

If anyone locally needs a bit i have some i can spare!

Thanks John!

Andrew


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## fcheslop (May 25, 2012)

Hi Andrew.you had me a little confused :big: thanks for you're generouse offer
Onward Onward came the cry  :big: So after a bit of head scratching and measuring and pausing the P.L video on Jan's web site a start was made on the main bearing block
I started with a lump of 52mm dia alloy and machined a square on one end then set the compound slide over to 3 degrees and turned the upper tapper and then reversed the process for the lower taper and just kept whittling it away until it looked pleasing to my eye :big: then reamed the bearing hole through




Then the prob arose the bearing I have are flanged and I didnt have a mill to suite so a rough counter bore was ground on the end of a drill far from perfect but it worked :big:








Them a quick mock up




Then the slot was milled as I don't have any long series mills the job had to be turned over to complete each cut and the set up wasn't that ridged so slowly slowly was the way foreward :big:




The depth of the slot was lightly scribed on so the mill stops can be used as I always over shoot by eye :big:
Forgot how old this scribing block was its the same age as my surface plate a lot of my stuff seems to originate about this era :big:about time I got some new kit








But you know when theres some thing niggling in the back of youre mind 




The part was then separated from the square section and the penny dropped I had not drilled and tapped the locating hole   
So the job was clocked in on the mill and the m5 hole drilled and tapped




That's it for today next up the flywheel but as I don't have any brass I may have to be creative or get a bank loan I thought they had quoted for bronze :












Many thanks for looking in and for the kind offers
kind regards Frazer


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## Jeremy_BP (May 26, 2012)

Looking good from here.
Although brass may be pretty, you can use whatever you have in the right size for the flywheel.


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## fcheslop (May 26, 2012)

Hi, Thanks Jeremy .Managed a few hours and made the flywheel I didn't have any round so square had to do a bit of a waste but needs must




Then onto the mill for the holes




Then parted of and the other side finished then a quick mock up just couldn't resist








back to the mill for the retaining screws I like to put at least two in 120 degrees apart forgive the set up :big:








That's about it for today all was going really well when the house swarf alarm started  but once it was removed from her foot she was OK no doubt I will be on 6 months hard labour on the to do list :big:
Still pondering over the cams just cannot get my brain into gear at the moment on call all weekend so had a good clean up instead.
Thanks for looking in 
kind regards Frazer


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## Deanofid (May 26, 2012)

Looking very good, Frazer. Ridders does up some neat designs, and you're doing
a nice job adding you're own touches.


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## fcheslop (May 27, 2012)

Hi Dean, Thanks hope things are going well for you
kind regards Frazer


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## fcheslop (Jun 5, 2012)

Hi, slowly eating the elephant :big: and that's just the to do list but onto the engine. The conrods have been fabricated agreed not the best way and they took longer to straighten out than make but got there in the end.
The big end eye was bored out I must get with this metric age and buy some reamers





Then the rods were simply hand filled to shape it seems to be a lost art now but I find it often quicker to use hand toools as the set up time for a machine can be greater and there was only two to make








Then a simple jig was made so that they could be hard soldered




Then the cams these for some reason had been giving me a hard time just getting the sequence into my rather muddled head  :big:
The blanks were turned to dia and clocked in on the mill and the offset and the crank positions drilled then back to the lathe and set up in the four jaw to machine the rear profile I know it should be all done on the mill but just couldn't get my thick head around how












Then the big end pins and retaining bolts were made just simple turning jobs as were the pistons




Thats about it for now as time is short at the moment the progress is slow




Thanks for the kind remarks and encouragement
best wishes to all
Frazer


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## ShedBoy (Jun 5, 2012)

Looking real nice Frazer. I need to make something pretty one day, next one I think. Looking forward to see this run, Jans' engines alway look good when going.

Brock


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## b.lindsey (Jun 5, 2012)

One bite at a time as they say Frazer...wonderful work so far and very well documented as well. Will be looking forward to seeing this one run !!

Regards,
Bill


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## fcheslop (Jun 21, 2012)

Sorry for the delay in updating the build but play time is a very scarce commodity at the moment.
Thanks for the kind comments
Next up the burners they are made from some copper end feed fittings in the same way as Little Blazer




They were set up in the mill on a simple jig to drill the hole for the burner tube




The bases were cut from sheet brass using a piercing saw I just love using this saw it saves so much time and a quick clean up with a file is all is needed they are a joy to use although maybe I'm biased as iv used one for oh to many years :big:




They were then hard soldered up and cleaned




The holders are along the lines again of Blazer just a simple little bit of piano wire








Next up the valve assemblies 




I made a small jig to mill the slots for the valve buckel but make sure you get the right oriantation :




Then a little play time as Little Blazer was just crying for a run :big:



Be back soon :big:
best wishes frazer


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## Deanofid (Jun 21, 2012)

The fuel tanks/lamps look great, Frazer. The Little Blazer run at the end was fun, too.


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## fcheslop (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks for looking in Dean :big:
Next up the timing was set and the big moment  it would pop and spit and run for about ten seconds followed by a couple of hour of finger burning fun so after 6 doubles no not that sort these :big:




espresso porn :big: :big:
The springs were distorting as the engine heated up.so they were normalised in a fashion with a blow lamp then another try :big: :big: as per Mr Ridders instruction on one cylinder



Then on two



Still not perfect as the springs still need a little tweaking but its of to the bling fairies for this one then the set up procedure repeated.OOPs wrong way round
kind regards Frazer


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## swilliams (Jun 22, 2012)

Very nice project Frazer, I like it

Steve


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## fcheslop (Jun 23, 2012)

Hi,after a quick trip to the bling fairies I think this project is now finished many thanks to all for the offers of materials and the kind comments
I would like to close this build by thanking Jan for sending me the drawing they are excellent and I have had no problems building from them




kind regards Frazer


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## arnoldb (Jun 23, 2012)

:bow: Well done Frazer - congratulations!

 ;D I see you also like coffee and a quick run of the blazer once in a while...

Kind regards, Arnold


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## Deanofid (Jun 23, 2012)

As usual, a great job, Frazer. Runs like a top, and looks great too.


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## fcheslop (Jun 23, 2012)

Thanks again gents.
Thanks Dean 
Hi Arnold Little Blazer has to be my favourite out of all the ones I have built as to the coffee I need my fix strong and Italian :big: 
cheers and good luck 
kind regards Frazer


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