# Blower for The Demon V8



## stevehuckss396 (Jun 20, 2013)

I got the bug to make a few parts for the Demon blower. I have a lot of prototype parts but have never built one so I decided to make the intake manifold and go up from there. I used the manual mill to rough out the basic shape of the intake and then the CNC mill to start shaping things. It took 3 tools and about an hour and a half to get to this point.














I also made a pattern and poured a few cases for the blower. 






I will most likely bounce back and fourth between this and the mini bikes so both builds will take twice as long now.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 22, 2013)

Got the top and bottom complete. I just need to drill the holes to mount it and port the blower to the cylinders.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jun 22, 2013)

WOW  nice work
do you save any time in doing your casting
compared to machining it


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 22, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> WOW  nice work
> do you save any time in doing your casting
> compared to machining it





Not on the first one. You still have to make the pattern. I was thinking about making the castings available to the people who have purchased the plans. There is one problem with the pattern. If you look at the sides of the case where the front and rear covers bolt on you will see there is a flat spot. The hole pattern can still go on the ends but the alignment pin holes are super close to the side. I would have to fix that problem with some bondo before I could sell the castings. Everything else but that was good.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 23, 2013)

The intake is complete. The ports are drilled and the coolant passages are in. For the first time a blower is bolted to one of my demon blocks.










I'm liking it so far.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jun 23, 2013)

> I'm liking it so far.
> 
> http://s770.photobucket.com/user/stevehuckss396/media/V8Demon/DSCN0777s.jpg.html


 

I'm sure your not the only onewoohoo1woohoo1


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## metalmad (Jun 23, 2013)

Hi Steve Looking Fantastic. 
Are you running 1 to 1 on the pullys?
I have no idea about sizing my pullys!
Pete


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 23, 2013)

metalmad said:


> Hi Steve Looking Fantastic.
> Are you running 1 to 1 on the pullys?
> I have no idea about sizing my pullys!
> Pete



I dont remember exactly but I think it was 25% overdrive meaning the blower will spin 25% faster than the engine. The blower being positive displacement will supply X amount of air per revolution. The pistons suck x amount of air per rev so the blower being smaller, it will need to spin faster to give more air. Keep in mind this is a wild ass guess. I have not done the math.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 23, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> I'm sure your not the only onewoohoo1woohoo1



Thanks CHP.  I plan to make the rotor making fixture tomorrow. G code is ready.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 25, 2013)

I have my blanks made up for the rotors. The length is dead on and the diameter is .125 inch larger than needed. The shaft is a pressed fit but I used a grooving tool and made sone .010 deep grooves and filled them with loc-tite before i rammed the shaft thru.








Here's my setup. The fixture is steel with brass bushings. I spent better than an hour shimming and tapping and indicating to make sure i am perfectly aligned. It's ready to go. If work gets rained out tomorrow I might take a run at one rotor. The RT is for rotating and holding position. The fixture does all the work. With a .188 shaft I didn't want to rely on the RT to support the work. I was worried about the center shaft flexing. I have only allowed .005 clearance in the case so I need all the advantage I can get.


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## rcfreak177 (Jun 25, 2013)

Looks great Steve,

The matt finish on the blower housing goes well with the shiny bits on the last picture, post #2.

I am very interested with this thread. Can't stop looking at it, My wife keeps telling me off  

Baz.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 25, 2013)

rcfreak177 said:


> Looks great Steve,
> 
> The matt finish on the blower housing goes well with the shiny bits on the last picture, post #2.
> 
> ...



I also like that old skool look of the raw casting. I might put a clear coat on it. Tell the wife I said hello!


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## /// (Jun 26, 2013)

Looking awesome Steve, love the pulleys.
I wonder though if it would have been possible to machine one extra long rotor and then cut in half to make two rotors?


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## rcfreak177 (Jun 26, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I also like that old skool look of the raw casting. I might put a clear coat on it. Tell the wife I said hello!



Sounds good, can't wait to hear it, told the missus you said hello, disappointed I didn't get a bight, Damm!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 26, 2013)

/// said:


> Looking awesome Steve, love the pulleys.
> I wonder though if it would have been possible to machine one extra long rotor and then cut in half to make two rotors?




No reason you cant. I want to have the shafts pressed in and machine them on the shaft so they are concentric. .005 clearance in the case so these have to be perfect.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 26, 2013)

All went well with the first piece. In this extremely poor quality video you can see the blank has been rough cut and the profile of the lobe is getting cut into the blank. The profile gets cut and then the  cutter steps over 3 thousands and cuts again. The cutter walks all the way down the length of the piece. The part is rotated 120 degrees and the same program is used 2 more times.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wF3fiEoAVKA&feature=c4-overview&list=UUTCVWcFfA5u7dc0yWJTTr7w[/ame]


After 2 runs







After all 3 runs








Then the blank gets rotated 60 degrees and this program is run 3 times every 120 degrees. This one works the same way and cleans out the valleys.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jhOgIGKxnC0[/ame]


























If all goes well I hope to clean up, setup the second blank, and get it indicated in and ready to cut for friday.


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## mu38&Bg# (Jun 26, 2013)

That looks great!


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## Lakc (Jun 27, 2013)

And you couldn't do that manually? 

Looking good!


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## canadianhorsepower (Jun 27, 2013)

stop stop this is blowing my mind away

just awsome Steve :bow::bow:


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## johnny1320 (Jun 27, 2013)

What's next Teflon strips


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2013)

johnny1320 said:


> What's next Teflon strips



Teflon strips for what?  Teflon is for high boost and requires PM. I didn't have strips on my Chevy and wouldn't waste my time and money unless I was racing for a living. Teflon is for racing not modeling.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2013)

Well I'm setup for round 2. The second blank is shimmed and indicated in. I would cut it right now but we are getting pounded with rain and with my luck the power would go out 10 minutes before it's done.


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## Lakc (Jun 27, 2013)

Not so bad here a little south of you, but did have the same thought go through my head.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2013)

Just some sprinkles now but we got hammered for about 30 minutes. Man I cant wait till tomorrow!!!!!!


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## jwcnc1911 (Jun 27, 2013)

That's awesome Steve!  I'm diggin' the little fixture for machining!


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## johnny1320 (Jun 27, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Teflon strips for what?  Teflon is for high boost and requires PM. I didn't have strips on my Chevy and wouldn't waste my time and money unless I was racing for a living. Teflon is for racing not modeling.



Seriously? It was a joke due to the detail. I am fully aware teflon strips are for race only.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 28, 2013)

Well! It's official, I now have a pair.


They still need to be deburred and geared together so i can see how they run together. The fit seems very promising. I'm sure there will need to me some fine fitting with some fine grit sand paper.


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## Lakc (Jun 28, 2013)

Looking good, hope it works out.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jun 28, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Well! It's official, I now have a pair.
> 
> 
> They still need to be deburred and geared together so i can see how they run together. The fit seems very promising. I'm sure there will need to me some fine fitting with some fine grit sand paper.


 

HA Ha Ha you don't only know  how to do miracles with machinery
you also know how to get people stand in front of your picture
awesome work man
simply awsome


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## petertha (Jun 28, 2013)

That is so Cool Steve! I know zip about blowers. Can you elaborate on the how you developed the profile? The lobes & cavities almost look semi-circle arc based, but impossible to tell where I'm standing. You mentioned 0.005" clearance somewhere, is that between the nominal OD of the rotor & ID of the housing? When one sees cogged drive pulleys, is that to time the lobes between one another (ie with clearance) or are they supposed to line contact roll like gear teeth? Any lubrication issues to contend with? Very impressive!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 28, 2013)

petertha said:


> That is so Cool Steve! I know zip about blowers. Can you elaborate on the how you developed the profile? The lobes & cavities almost look semi-circle arc based, but impossible to tell where I'm standing. You mentioned 0.005" clearance somewhere, is that between the nominal OD of the rotor & ID of the housing? When one sees cogged drive pulleys, is that to time the lobes between one another (ie with clearance) or are they supposed to line contact roll like gear teeth? Any lubrication issues to contend with? Very impressive!




Developed the profile?  Can't remember exactly but I do know that I picked a set of gears so the center to center of the rotors is fixed. I remember making the lobe diameter .010 smaller than the valleys to give the .005 spacing between them. The diameter of the rotor is .010 smaller than the bore diameter to give .005 clearance from the case. The 2 rotors are geared together to maintain clearance between them. They can never touch or they will eat them selves up. The only lube issues will be oiling the gears in the gear case.


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## /// (Jun 28, 2013)

Porn in metal form.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 30, 2013)

After 2 days of filing, dying, testing , and sanding, fitting, massageing, and tinkering, well you get the point. The rotors are fitted to the case. The rotors free spin and nothing touches nothing. I was going to post some pictures but I forgot to put the memory card in the camera. I will include some pix next time I post something.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 30, 2013)




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## kd0afk (Jun 30, 2013)

pictures aren't showing up.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 30, 2013)

kd0afk said:


> pictures aren't showing up.



 They will be back up on the 6th


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## /// (Jul 1, 2013)

He's teasing us


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 1, 2013)

/// said:


> He's teasing us




Hahahaa!!  Good one!

I just learned that if you right click the box a menu pops up. Click "open image in new tab" and you can view the pix on the photo bucket site. They are not blocked there.


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## Lakc (Jul 1, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Hahahaa!!  Good one!
> 
> I just learned that if you right click the box a menu pops up. Click "open image in new tab" and you can view the pix on the photo bucket site. They are not blocked there.



Sorta not really 
Your looking at them from your cache, but you can go to your pb site and view the thumbnails and whole album's, but the individual pics wont show. So its close.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 1, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Sorta not really
> Your looking at them from your cache, but you can go to your pb site and view the thumbnails and whole album's, but the individual pics wont show. So its close.




You sure?  It takes me right to the photo bucket site and to the demon album.


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## kd0afk (Jul 1, 2013)

They aren't showing up on the PB site either. And I really want to see them. I've been following this build from the beginning.


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## /// (Jul 2, 2013)

Yeah doesn't work for me either.
You sure you've logged out of PB when you try this Steve? I'm guessing as owner you are still able to see the pic's on PB but no one else can.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 2, 2013)

It worked for many others. Sorry about that. 4 more days!!


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## browny289 (Jul 3, 2013)

Hey mate
Out of interest where did you have to file etc to make the profile work?
saw photos the other day looked great. Cant see any photo's now though


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## dylan1024 (Jul 3, 2013)

if i remember correctly it is a cycloid or hypercycloid.... one of the cycloids

i was fascinated by Steve's motor way back when and drew this up after chatting with him. i think my file has a zero offset at the moment. the surfaces of the lobes will be in rolling 'contact' with each other. ie: a zero relative velocity between the two lobe surfaces. 

View attachment ROOTS.zip


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 3, 2013)

browny289 said:


> Hey mate
> Out of interest where did you have to file etc to make the profile work?
> saw photos the other day looked great. Cant see any photo's now though



The rotors are machined with a .005 clearance from each other and the blower case. IN REALITY you factor in 

Back lash in the CNC machine. Backlash is just a reality. Every machine that costs 1200 bucks to build has it. Under .001 even after 3 years of use.

The resolution of the CNC machine. Another factor that is just a reality that has to be dealt with.

When setting up the machine X, Y, and Z must be set up perfectly.

When the case was machined the hole pattern to bolt on the bearing plate was created. Then the case was rotated 180 degrees, and the two rotor bores were made, the bores had to line up with the bolt pattern that is now at the bottom of the case. Factor that error. (only missed by .006, Not bad)

All these errors and a half dozen other things that can go wrong can pile up. 

The first thing I did was grab a piece of sand paper and measure how thick it was (.006). Then I turned a piece of stock .012 smaller in diameter than the finished size of the valleys and made sure they were exactly to size. After all 6 valleys were done the rotors would turn about 3/4 of a turn freely. Then I installed the rotors in the case and sanded the bores until both rotors spun in the case freely. Then installed them both, geared them together and gave them a twirl. Dissassemble and look for scuffs. Then polish, assemble , spin, dis assemble, polish. Keep tracking down the spots that rub until nothing rubs anymore. Its very time consuming but needs to be done unless you have a half million dollar machine and 20,000 dollar software.

If everything was spot on none of that would have to be done but I'm not that good.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 5, 2013)

I have the new gear cover done. Just need to sand blast it and thread the holes.


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## Lakc (Jul 5, 2013)

Looks pretty slick.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 5, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I have the new gear cover done. Just need to sand blast it and thread the holes.


+


now I can't see the PICS


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 6, 2013)

This is really weird yesterday I post I can't see the picture
today I go back at it and the picture is in my reply


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 6, 2013)

Got the drive snout done. I recycled the prototype by shortening it up and re-boring the bearing pocket.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 6, 2013)

Well i'm done for the day.

The adjusting bracket I had made long ago. All I had to do is drill and tap the threads and then slit it so it would snug down on the snout. Then I threaded it so the idler wheel pin would thread into it. The idler pin I cheated a little and used a piece of 9/32 hex bar I had on hand. The idler wheel itself is to the drawing. Alignment looks very good with the crank pulley. I need to get a belt so the pictures will be much cooler.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 8, 2013)

The blower unit itself is 99% done. I still have to make gaskets. I think I'm going to try to make the air scoop next. What I think and what I do is sometimes 2 different things but for now that's the plan. I am working on getting the belt length nailed down. Soon the belt will be in the pictures.


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## Lakc (Jul 8, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I am working on getting the belt length nailed down. Soon the belt will be in the pictures.



Blower pulley looks a tad smaller, whats the drive ratio?

I was proud of my homebrew manually spin up three phase converter, but you got 4800 volts in your shop! :bow::bow::bow:


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 8, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Blower pulley looks a tad smaller, whats the drive ratio?



It's 25% overdrive.


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## johnny1320 (Jul 9, 2013)

Looks awesome Steve, how about a video down the blower intake with the rotors turning.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 12, 2013)

johnny1320 said:


> Looks awesome Steve, how about a video down the blower intake with the rotors turning.



I have to tear it apart again to put gaskets in it. I'll try to remember when that happens.

I am about 70% done with the scoop. To clean out the innerds I plunged a 5/8 ball nose mill into the nose. The chips swirling around scuffed up the inside pretty good. After machining the bottom and fitting it to the carbs, if the finish is decent, i'm going to sand blast it inside and polish the outside to a super shine. I hope to finish it up today and see what I end up with.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 12, 2013)

We got'er! 

Still needs some buffing and polishing. I also want to take the dremel tool to the inside and clean that up somewhat. Over all I'm happy with it.


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## johnny1320 (Jul 12, 2013)

That looks sweet! Steve


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## /// (Jul 12, 2013)

Looks awesome, nice work Steve!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 13, 2013)

Thanks guy's. I'm out of town for a few days. Hope to be back at it by the middle of next week.


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## Lawijt (Jul 13, 2013)

It looks really great. When all is done,you have to make a movie with & without the blower for looking how the perfomance change.
Is that possible??


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 13, 2013)

Lawijt said:


> It looks really great. When all is done,you have to make a movie with & without the blower for looking how the perfomance change.
> Is that possible??




I could run them side by side i guess. I already have one running on the carb.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 13, 2013)

Pretty darn close!


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## jwcnc1911 (Jul 13, 2013)

This is just unreal!


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## johnny1320 (Jul 13, 2013)

The engine would look good in a slingshot dragster


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## CNC-Joe (Jul 13, 2013)

Awesome work, Steve!!!  It was great to see it at the MDMC meeting.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 19, 2013)

I have started on the linkage for the carbs. 2 small brackets, a shaft, and a couple of retainers to maintain position of the rod. This rod will rotate to open and close the carbs.











When you cad this stuff up it's real easy to loose track of just how small the parts can get. On the computer you can just zoom in a little more. Cant do that in the garage.


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## Lakc (Jul 19, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> When you cad this stuff up it's real easy to loose track of just how small the parts can get. On the computer you can just zoom in a little more. Cant do that in the garage.


Especially as the eyes get older. 
McMaster has rod ends down to 6-32 size. Sometimes I keep one on the desk and import the cad file from them to check sizings. Still, there has been plenty of parts I have drawn and end up saying "how the heck am I supposed to hold that to cut it"?
That blower is looking sweet!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 19, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Especially as the eyes get older.
> McMaster has rod ends down to 6-32 size.





These are #2-56 and the balls are 0-80


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## Lakc (Jul 19, 2013)

Dubro model airplane stuff at those sizes. I am deathly afraid of taps that small.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 19, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Dubro model airplane stuff at those sizes. I am deathly afraid of taps that small.



It's not that bad. Just go up a drill size from spec and your gold. In steel go up 2 sizes.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 20, 2013)

Got my pivot arms done. I think i'm going to spend the rest of the day making spark plug boots. Makes for a nice easy day.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 25, 2013)

Blower belts came in the mail today. The fit is perfect. With any luck I should be back at it early next week.


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## Lakc (Jul 25, 2013)

Vroom vroom. 
Tried just motoring the blower yet?


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 25, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Tried just motoring the blower yet?



If you mean, did I remove the gear and chuck the shaft in a drill motor and let'er rip, well that would be childish don't you think?

Of course i did! I didn't do it for very long and never tried to plug the bottom because I was getting some touching of the lobes. I still need to figure out a way to get the rotors indexed but of course I have a plan. Haven't had much time this week. Getting ready to show at the Maker Faire this weekend.


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## CNC-Joe (Jul 25, 2013)

KICK ASS, Steve !!!

Freaking really nice work!!!


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## Lakc (Jul 25, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Haven't had much time this week. Getting ready to show at the Maker Faire this weekend.


I may be there myself.


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## petertha (Jul 25, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Blower belts came in the mail today. The fit is perfect.


 
Wow, so realistic! Maybe I missed it, but what is involved in making the pully teeth profile to match belts like that? Like a numbered gear cutter, or..?


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 25, 2013)

petertha said:


> Wow, so realistic! Maybe I missed it, but what is involved in making the pully teeth profile to match belts like that? Like a numbered gear cutter, or..?



I purchased gear stock and cut it down to what I needed.


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## johnny1320 (Jul 31, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> If you mean, did I remove the gear and chuck the shaft in a drill motor and let'er rip, well that would be childish don't you think?
> 
> Of course i did! I didn't do it for very long and never tried to plug the bottom because I was getting some touching of the lobes. I still need to figure out a way to get the rotors indexed but of course I have a plan. Haven't had much time this week. Getting ready to show at the Maker Faire this weekend.


 
Hi Steve the blower looks awesome! Just a thought on timing lobes, GMC blowers have helical gears and one gear is shimed to rotate lobe.


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## kd0afk (Jul 31, 2013)

Put that puppy on a go-cart and have some fun.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 7, 2013)

Finally a little progress!

I have been tied up with maintaining other engines. The Peewee V4 now has a new distributor cap, rotor, and hall sensor. She's running real nice now. The V8 had a water pump burn up. My own fault. The first design had the coolant return hose right under the fill cap so when I run it the coolant sprays out the vent hole in the cap. The coolant got low and the pump got no lube so it is now a little loose.

One thing I didn't like about the old one is the fact that the body doubles asa bearing race. The body has to be made from bronze or brass. I am going to see how a pump with sealed bearings works. With ball bearings I should be able to get away with an aluminum pump. I also am making this one like a real pump in the sense that it draws water from the inlet and feeds coolant to both sides of the pump like a real one. I don't need it to do that but I may in the future. I figured I would make enough parts for 3 pumps. I need one for the V8, one for the blown V8 and one for spare parts.


The top piece is the back side of the pump. All the passages are milled into the back of the body. The lower piece is the front of the back plate. The back plate allows the pump to span the timing cover and carries the rear bearings.


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## Cheshire Steve (Aug 8, 2013)

Ally water pump sounds a lot better than brass, cos any combination of Al and Cu-based alloy in electrical contact together with water forms a very good battery. Anodising sure helps, as do the inhibitors in modern anti-freeze, but the tiniest defect and you risk your ally bits becoming a sacrificial anode, just like the Al/Mg/Zn ingots they bolts onto boats to protect the bronze propellors. I am pretty sure this is why the old brass car radiators were rubber mounted, not just because of expansion, but also to avoid electrical contact with other metals in the cooling circuit.

Stunningly awesome project - I have a LS2 V8 with bolt on Harrop blower and charge cooler (car is a Pontiac GTO to US people). Forced induction is not really a good idea without dropping the compression ratio. A little bit tricky to dial out knock and still get it through the emissions test. Hope you don't have to do micro-diagnostics on your model.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 10, 2013)

Little more on the pump today. The rear plate and body are complete. I rounded off some corners to make it look different but I think I like the old style better.

Now I need to make me some guts.


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 10, 2013)

AND it's going to make noise whenwoohoo1woohoo1


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 10, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> AND it's going to make noise whenwoohoo1woohoo1




Early next year if all goes well.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 12, 2013)

I have finished the 2 shafts other than the fact that the drive shaft needs to be trimmed to length. On the old pump the shafts rode in a reamed hole so the case needed to be brass or bronze. Now the shafts ride in 1/8 X 1/4 inch bearings. The o ring seal has been moved to a small pocket in the rear of the front case. I still need to make a gasket but I have my trusty template so that should go fast and then an easy finish and it should be mounted tomorrow if life will allow. I'm in a bit of a hurry because I have a metal club meeting Wednesday and I'm trying to turn it into an engine run so I would like to be ready.


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## Lakc (Aug 12, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I'm in a bit of a hurry because I have a metal club meeting Wednesday and I'm trying to turn it into an engine run so I would like to be ready.


Usual place?


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 13, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Usual place?





Yes same place. I fear I started too late and will be the only one bringing something to run. I am going to try to change next years august meeting to an engine run and swap.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 13, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Yes same place. I fear I started too late and will be the only one bringing something to run. I am going to try to change next years august meeting to an engine run and swap.





It's on!!  I just received the news letter and Rick put a notice to bring something to run. Maybe I won't be the only one.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 13, 2013)

Well I got it done. Tomorrow I will fill the radiator and give the water pump a test run. If all goes well I will finish building the second one for the blower motor.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 20, 2013)

Now that the other engines are running good I had time to make some new stuff. I made new carb levers and bolted them to the drums on the carb. The ball screwed into the lever but not flush like I expected. That I can fix. The socket did not pop onto the ball as far as I thought it would. That I cannot fix so I will shorten the lever up to make the adjustment. 5 minute fix, I can handle that. I also have the threaded links made to connect the throttle levers to the pivot dohickeys. I plan to make the base bracket wider so the ball wont hit the blower case. I'm only talking a .050 inch change. Not a big deal. The threaded linkage rods wont screw into the socket real far. That I expected so I cut about half of the length off that piece and it went exactly as I was hoping. The carbs are linked to the main shaft and working together so its progress.


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## Lakc (Aug 20, 2013)

Getting closer


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 22, 2013)

Well!, i have made the base bracket that holds the swivel gizmo. This is the thing that will turn horizontal motion into vertical motion. I have one more bracket to make and a few rods and I will have the linkage done.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 25, 2013)

Well that's it for the blower. The linkage is done and working very nice. The plans have 2 changes to them 
so the latest update will be out today with those 2 changes on them. The engine won't be running for a
while as I still need a crankshaft and all the fixins. I will start on all that early next week if all goes well. I
have another project that I want to finish and I'll be back.


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## John Rus (Aug 25, 2013)

Looking great! Can't wait to hear it run! 

Cheers, 
John.


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 25, 2013)

Steve-- I notice there is no hole for the distributor
are you going with a crank trigger set up


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 25, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Steve-- I notice there is no hole for the distributor
> are you going with a crank trigger set up




No, just haven't drilled the hole yet. I wait until the block, heads, and intake are done. Then I assemble the parts with the gaskets installed and drill both at the same time. Makes for perfect alignment.  Just going with the standard distributor setup, hall sensor, CDI board. The basics. I am going to move on to making the innerds so it will be done soon.


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## stevehuckss396 (Sep 15, 2013)

Well I have the easy part done. The throws are the worst part and I am not looking forward to it. 







I am going to try the George Britnell method so I started making a fixture to hold the crank for milling operations. Once complete I can pre-mill the throws so there will be alot less to remove on the lathe. The fixture looks big but I made it work for a future project.


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## Mattkguns (Nov 21, 2013)

hey steve, 

just checked in here and realized it had been a few months.

im sure you have good reasons, im just itching to hear this thing run!

keep up the good work

Matt


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 21, 2013)

I keep getting side tracked. I am working on a crankshaft right now but I keep screwing them up. Good thing metal is cheap. Oh wait a minute.


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 30, 2013)

I started making a new crankshaft. I have made 2 changes to my process to try to get better results. I was getting some major chatter. The crankshaft has a front shaft a little over an inch long and a tail shaft more than 2 inches long. Those diameters are at there largest .250 inches. To increase rigidity I made some blocks for the ends with the centers drilled in them that those shafts can slide into and take out the flex. I also changed my tooling. The accepted way to grind tools is to grind a small relief in the center of a parting tool to create a forked tongue in the end. I took a .094 wide parting blade and ground a right hand tool on one end and a left hand tool on the other. I machined the mains and both ends to spec between centers. Then the blocks were installed and the throws were cut in the mill and finished in the lathe one at a time. Absolutely no chatter at all and super nice finish on everything. I suppose I had about 10 hours in the shaft when I went out this morning to finish the last throw. I put the shaft in the vise in the wrong orientation and cut about half way thru the last throw before I realized what I did. Everything was working perfectly except my brain. Tomorrow I start my third!!! I think this is karmas punishment for not taking pictures to post.


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## Art K (Nov 30, 2013)

Steve,
I won't accept that you are being punished for anything. But everything goes back to the old adage measure twice cut once, been there myself though I've only been doing single throws so far. Good luck with the third.
Art


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## CNC-Joe (Dec 2, 2013)

Karma told me - that you should take pictures this time.
We may have to rename you "Earl".


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 2, 2013)

CNC-Joe said:


> Karma told me - that you should take pictures this time.
> We may have to rename you "Earl".



Hows it going Joe! Good to hear from you. Are you going to the christmas party?

BTW, my middle name is Earl, no joke!


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 7, 2013)




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## ozzie46 (Dec 7, 2013)

Bravo Steve! I had no doubts. woohoo1woohoo1

   By the way, what size are the rod journals so I can get a mental picture of the crank size. 

   Ron


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 7, 2013)

ozzie46 said:


> Bravo Steve! I had no doubts. woohoo1woohoo1
> 
> By the way, what size are the rod journals so I can get a mental picture of the crank size.
> 
> Ron



Its 7 inches long and .980 diameter. Front and rear shafts are .249 and the rear tapers to .190 with a 10-32 thread. The 3 mains are .374 and the rods are .249


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## Art K (Dec 7, 2013)

Steve,
Now that looks like a crankshaft!
Art


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 8, 2013)

Art K said:


> Steve,
> Now that looks like a crankshaft!
> Art



Nice to have it out of the way. Bout killed me.


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## ozzie46 (Dec 8, 2013)

Thanks for the info Steve. That sure helps me to get a sense of proportion.

  Ron


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 8, 2013)

ozzie46 said:


> Thanks for the info Steve. That sure helps me to get a sense of proportion.
> 
> Ron




See if this helps.


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## ozzie46 (Dec 8, 2013)

Yeah!! That's it!  It looks so...so... delicate! And functional at the same time. Beautiful.
 Thanks Steve.

 Ron


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