# My First Clock Project



## tmuir (Feb 28, 2010)

Last June I purchased this book off ebay.







Since last July I have been making the tools I need to make this clock and purchasing material.
I still have more material to get and more tools to make, but I've finally reached a point where I can start.

Here are some of the tools I've made so far for this project.





From top left to right the tools are.

Honing jig for the wheel cutters.

Chamfering tool for the steady pins, its still not finished yet.

Deburing tools for holes smaller than 1/8 inch

Simple riveting anvil.

Fly cutter holder and flycutter for the clock wheels. Still need to make the wheel blank holder.
Screw holder to allow me to shape the ends of the screws, still need to make a few more different sized collets for the holder.

Graver for hand shaping brass.

Clock frame holders to hold the frame off the workbench when fitting the pivots.

Finally a finger clamp, I made this for clock making but I use it all the time for other things too.





The material needed for the clock. I still am missing a few bits, namely the 1 inch by 1/8 inch BMS for the frame and the 1 5/8 inch BS 2874 brass for the crown wheel, but I now have enough to start.

This will be a slow project as I will need to take a number of detours making extra tools along the way and also purchase a few other items I can't make.
I figure as this is based on a clock design that is around 400 years old that if people could make it with no power tools or accurate measuring items I should be able to. :big:


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## Deanofid (Feb 28, 2010)

Good luck with it, tmuir. 
I've built a clock, (which actually runs, even!). I worked on it on and off for quite a few months, and it still needs a chapter ring and hands, but other than that, it's been running for over a year.

It's a great exercise in tool building, for sure, besides teaching you things like wheel cutting, depthing, lantern pinions, and a number of other useful skills that you can use in many machining aspects.

I'll be watching your thread. Clock builds are great!

Dean


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## don-tucker (Feb 28, 2010)

So glad you making a start on a clock.I was passionate about them some time ago we have clocks everywhere.In 1995 I built an eight day long case clock to a design by Alan Timmins, really enjoyed it.it hasn't stopped from that day on and kreeps excellent time,the longer the pendulam the better the timekeeping,Built the case as well,that started me on violins,but thats another story.
I couldn't see a gear depthing tool in your collection,I made a very simple one that worked well,even used it on my traction engine.
If I can help in any way I will be glad to.
Don
Looking forward to following your build.


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## tmuir (Feb 28, 2010)

don-tucker  said:
			
		

> I couldn't see a gear depthing tool in your collection,I made a very simple one that worked well,even used it on my traction engine.
> If I can help in any way I will be glad to.
> Don
> Looking forward to following your build.



You can't see the depthing tool as I haven't made it yet.
That is one of the tools I'm still to make.
This is going to be a big learning curve for me but I'm not in a rush to finish, but I am getting impatient to start it.
It was over 40C in my workshop today so my time was limited in there but I did manage to grind up a new HSS tool for me to use on the brass work.

Both my grandfather and great grandfather were watchmaker / clockmakers and I have their old reference books, with the oldest one dated 1897 and my Great grandfathers watch makers lathe from the 40s.


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## don-tucker (Feb 28, 2010)

It's in the blood then,you had to make one,
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







 hear is my pride and joy,but I didn't make the chapter ring or the bits on the corners of the dial. 40 degrees, , I haven't done much as it has been too cold
Don


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## zeeprogrammer (Feb 28, 2010)

Darn it tmuir. I'm in the process of organizing and prioritizing my project list. I forgot about clocks...which has been a dream of mine since I was a kid. Now I have to work the list some more. ;D

I'm very much looking forward to your build.


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## tmuir (Feb 28, 2010)

Don, Insert suitable oooh and ahhhs here.
Thats one fine clock.
My end goal is something like that but I wanted to start with something a bit more forgiving for my first clock, although I do own a copy of John Wilding's eight day clock which is similar to yours.

I aiming for that to be my third clock as I think something like that is above my level at the moment, but I hope to get there eventually.

It's ok Zee your making a loco at the moment and that is on my 'to -do ' list too, not sure if that comes before or after the 3 traction engines I've got the castings to make though. :big:

My grandfather passed away about 9 years ago.
I do wish he was still around to see my workshop, its not as big or as fancy as his was, but I do think he would of been willing to do the 4500km trip to come and 'play' in it a few times if he was still around. It was him that got me all interested in this some 24 years ago when he gave me a toy steam engine that he must of bought when he was in his 20s.


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## kcmillin (Feb 28, 2010)

This sounds like an awesome project. I would love plans for a clock. I have tried in the past but never got verry far. I ended up with a half decent 600:1 gear train I can use for fun experiements with my little motors. But I have always wanted to build a clock. I dont have a clock in my shop now and I promised myself I would ony put a clock in my shop, if I made it myself. Your project post will get me one step further to understanding horology.

Cant wait too see the process.

kel


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## tmuir (Feb 28, 2010)

If your looking for a clock project I recommend looking here.
http://www.ritetimepublishing.com/

Here is where you can buy copies of John Wildings books and he has many, from books on making the tools, to repairing clocks to lots of complete detailed books on building on of his many clocks.


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## tmuir (Mar 1, 2010)

It's a public holiday here.
The wife have taken the kids out.
Perfect day to get into the workshop, except for the fact its 45C (113F) inside there. 
Guess I won't be doing much today.........................


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## arnoldb (Mar 1, 2010)

Good project Tony; I'm also looking forward to seeing your progress!

45 Deg ? - Ouch! - I get out of the shop when it hits 38!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## hobby (Mar 1, 2010)

The tools themselves are BEAUTIFUL workpieces...

You have a real nice project to work on...


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## Maryak (Mar 2, 2010)

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> 45 Deg ? - Ouch! - I get out of the shop when it hits 38!
> 
> Kind regards, Arnold



Me too - else I start to make boo boos as I have already proven in the Maryak 10 thread. Mind you I am so skilled I can make boo boos irrespective of the temperature : it's just that the odds increase exponentially with the temperature.

Best Regards
Bob


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## tmuir (Mar 3, 2010)

Just ducked out to the shops during my lunch break and purchased 5 of the 7 files I need to dro the crossing out of the wheels (gears) that sent me back $85 and I have a feeling the other two will cost me about that much again and I still need to buy the oil sinks yet..................


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## tmuir (Mar 5, 2010)

Well you have to start somewhere so I have decided to start at chapter 7 and make the drive pulley. :big:
My reasoning is I just finished grinding up a HSS cutting tool for brass as I want to get away from my expensive carbide tools that don't give very good finishes and I wanted something simple to try it on.
I'm very happy with the results I got with this HSS tool.





Finally after 8 moths preparation I've started! ;D


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## Maryak (Mar 5, 2010)

tmuir,

Nice start, :bow: How big will your clock be ??? Your first part looks pretty small if that's a pencil supporting it.

Best Regards
Bob


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## arnoldb (Mar 5, 2010)

Good start Tony

I agree with you; HSS bits seems to work *very* well for brass - no need to grind in top rake either!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## tmuir (Mar 5, 2010)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> tmuir,
> 
> Nice start, :bow: How big will your clock be ??? Your first part looks pretty small if that's a pencil supporting it.
> 
> ...



It's only a small one.
If you go back and look at the photo of the clock on the first page the outside diameter of the dial is only 5 5/8 inches.
This is very much a beginners clock .


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## T70MkIII (Mar 6, 2010)

A great start - I'm looking forward to seeing your progress.


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## tmuir (Mar 9, 2010)

Some small progress.

Flanges cut out and material to make the mandrel.





Mandrel made and blanks on it ready for turning to size.





Turned to size and the front one has had a slight chamfer machined onto it.
I needed to finish with a file and W&D as I got a bit of chatter.





Hub and the 2 flanges, next step I had to bore the flanges out to 7/16 inch so they would fit the hub.





I don't have a boring tool small enough for my big lathe yet and I didn't want another detour making a boring tool holder so I moved to my watchmakers lathe to do the boring.





Flanges finished.





Next is to make the ratchet and as this is a beginners clock the ratchet teeth will be hand cut out and filed to the line


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## cfellows (Mar 9, 2010)

Fascinating build thread. I've always wanted to build a clock.

Chuck


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## don-tucker (Mar 9, 2010)

This thread is taking me back to 1995.
Don


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 9, 2010)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> I've always wanted to build a clock.



Me too!

I'm very interested in this thread.


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## Deanofid (Mar 9, 2010)

So far, so good, Tmuir. Watching with interest.

Dean


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## tmuir (Mar 10, 2010)

A little bit more progress.

I only took this photo as I was very proud of this hole I drilled.
I little trick I read in one of my clock making books is to scribe several circles of increasing size around the hole you plan to drill and it makes it very easy to see if you hole is going off centre to allow you to correct this.

You can see a faint line right on the edge of the hole drilled, this isn't from the drilling.
Its one of my marking circles, so for once I got the holes exactly spot on where I wanted to drill it.
This is something rare for me. :big:






Same part after turning to size, boring, marking out and lots of sawing and filing.










The screws I've ordered to screw this together haven't arrived yet so I can't finish it until they do.
Although I can give it its final clean out.


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## kcmillin (Mar 10, 2010)

Verry nice hand work on that ratchet gear. Verry Nice.

Kel


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## Deanofid (Mar 10, 2010)

The ratchet looks good, Tmuir. Thanks for the pics!

Dean


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## tmuir (Mar 29, 2010)

Finally tonight I managed to get back into the workshop.
I was away for 1 1/2 weeks for work and then once I got back I had a stack of other jobs to do before I could get back into the workshop.
The first thing I needed to do was burnish the teeth on the ratchet.
I didn't own a burnisher small enough and yes I could of got some 1/16 silver steel hardened and tempered it and then polished it up but I took the easy approach.
On the way home dropped by Spotlight which is a shop in Australia that sells all the stuff you need for sewing, knitting etc and got myself a medium size wool needle (the wool needle was chosen as it doesn't have a sharp point.





A quick trip to the grinder to take off the eye of the needle and I had a perfectly sized hardened and polished burnisher which I held in my pin vice.






After burnishing the holes for the 8BA roundhead screws were marked out, drilled, counter drilled and tapped.
Here it is in the lathe to trim the screws to size and put an undercut to strop friction when the ratchet turns against the main wheel when resetting the weight.





All finished.










Its not perfect but it is good enough for what is really a learning project.
One part finished, many to go.


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## kcmillin (Mar 29, 2010)

I got a dumb question.

What is burnishing?

kel


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## rake60 (Mar 29, 2010)

A basic description of burnishing would be feeding a blunt, non-cutting tool that is 
harder than the base material over it to create a highly polished compressed surface.

In industrial applications, a burnishing tool is a diamond tip mounted in a spring
set tool, or a set of hardened rollers that can be adjusted to suit the diameter of
material to be burnished.

Does that make any sense? 

Rick


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## Deanofid (Mar 29, 2010)

tmuir, your ratchet wheel came out nice! 
Good idea for the burnisher, too. Fat sewing needles are good for more than sewing.

Anxiously awaiting your next installment of "As the clock turns".
; )

Dean


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## tmuir (Mar 30, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> I got a dumb question.
> 
> What is burnishing?
> 
> kel



Rake pretty muched covered it.
What I'm using it for is the edge of the ratchet.
Once it was shaped the edge was still covered with fine marks from my 4th cut files.
The needle is hard and highly polished so if I rub it up and down the edge of the brass whilst putting pressure on it, it will compress the metal, get rid of the file marks and work harden the edge so making it tougher against wear.

Once I make the wheels (gears) and cross them out (cut out the extra material between the hub and the outer edge to make them lighter) the burnisher will be used again to polish these up too.


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## tmuir (Apr 1, 2010)

Had a long night in the workshop last night and I'm quite proud of the results.
I cut my first wheels (gears).

I marked out the wheels on the brass sheet and drilled and reamed the centre holes then cut out from the sheet.
Next I made an aluminium disk 1/8inch thick to fit on my mandrel to give some extra support to the wheels when I cut the teeth.
Then the wheels were fitted to the mandrel and turned to size.
Next the mandrel was transferred to my rotary table set up on my X2 mill.

Here are the blanks (I cut 2 blanks at the same time) ready for cutting on my mill.
I had made the fly cutter holder and the flycutter a few weeks back ready for this day.










First tooth cut.





Just one more to do.





Finished.





Next the wheels need to be crossed out (Cut out the brass to make it have spokes) and then the addendum curves will be filed onto the teeth. I will be using lantern pinions so the addendum curve isn't that important other than to provide clearance which is why I can get away filing the curves. This also simplifies cutting the gears which is what I want for my first clock build.

These will be second and hour wheel.


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## Maryak (Apr 1, 2010)

Tmuir,

Nice wheels. :bow:

Just to show my complete ignorance, why are the second and hour wheels the same size. ??? 
Am I correct in that they have 48 teeth. ???
Why not 60 teeth which is a number basic to time and 360 deg. ???

Thanks for putting up with this - a clock is on my tudu list but time is getting away from me.

Best Regards
Bob


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## tmuir (Apr 1, 2010)

Hi Maryak,

Yes they are both 48 teeth.
When I said second wheel I didn't mean the seconds as in 60 to a minute but the second wheel in the train.
The main wheel has 72 teeth and this revolves once an hour.
It has a 4 tooth pinion on the front of it that connects to the hour wheel which has 48 teeth. This means the hour wheel does one revolution every 12 hours.
The second wheel is driven by an 8 tooth pinion off the main wheel this in turn drives the crown wheel via another 8 tooth pinion.
The crown wheel has 20 teeth which gives 36 vibrations a minute.


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## Maryak (Apr 1, 2010)

Tmuir,

Thanks for your explanation. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## tmuir (Apr 18, 2010)

Not made huge progress and probably won't this month either as my PC died and cost $800 to fix which pretty much killed my budget for buying the tools and material I still needed to get.
I'm also going away again for another week for work so quickly nipped out to the workshop today and made a couple of simple parts.


These are the foliot weights. In the photo one has been chemically blackened and the other hasn't.
All mild steel parts of the clock will be blackened to help stop rust.
For those that don't know what the foliot is, it's the bit at the top of this clock that will swing back and forwards to regulate the clock.
This clock is based on a design from before the modern escapement was invented.






Small progress is better than no progress.....


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## don-tucker (Apr 18, 2010)

Clocks coming on great Tmuir,tell you what I found,when the clock was in it's case,it kept stopping after about an hour,it was the fact that it wasn't screwed to the wall.It appears the pendulum sets up harmonics and the case moves with it,and so cancels the swing.
A useless bit of info but intersting.
Don


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## tmuir (Apr 18, 2010)

don-tucker  said:
			
		

> Clocks coming on great Tmuir,tell you what I found,when the clock was in it's case,it kept stopping after about an hour,it was the fact that it wasn't screwed to the wall.It appears the pendulum sets up harmonics and the case moves with it,and so cancels the swing.
> A useless bit of info but intersting.
> Don



I've got a couple of old 8 hour longcase movements coming from the UK at the moment so I've been reading my books on repairing them and have just read about exactly what was happening to you.
My books suggest putting a couple of wedges under the front to push it back hard up against the wall to stop it.
Mine won't have a pendulum so I don't have that problem.
Mine also won't be going in a case but left hanging naked on the wall.
It's not being made to be a precision clock, just something that keeps reasonable time and to give me some 'hands on' experience working with clocks.
I'm only half way through reading about pendulum theory and didn't realise there was so much to something that I always thought was the simple part.


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## kcmillin (Apr 18, 2010)

Tmuir, I know what your saying about pendulum theroy, there is more info on that than I could possibly read. 

awhile back I had an attempt at a clock, read up and looked at pictures and I came up with this.

I thought this would be a good spot to post this.





kel


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## Deanofid (Apr 18, 2010)

Thanks for the update, tmuir. Did you use Locktite to hold the wires into the foliot weights? 

Dean


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## tmuir (Apr 18, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Did you use Locktite to hold the wires into the foliot weights?
> Dean



Yes used locktite, love the stuff, although it is spring wire I used so there is also some tension on the wires in the holes to help hold it too.


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## Deanofid (Apr 18, 2010)

Yeah, I like the stuff, too. I used it for the pins in my lanterns and to hold the lanterns themselves on the wheel shafts. 

Dean


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## tmuir (Apr 23, 2010)

Just got home from my week away to find a pleasant surprise.
When I placed my order to EJ Winter some time ago he didn't have the BMS strips I needed to make the clock frame and he said he would get it in for me.
I've now got the missing material to make the clock frame so I can now get this under way. I really should of built this first but as I didn't have it I jumped backwards and forwards and made the parts I could.
If all goes well by next weekend I should have the frame finished.


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