# BAZMAK a second Lathe



## bazmak (Apr 7, 2017)

When I first joined this forum I bought a 7x16 mini lathe.Paid approx. $1200
for an improved spec.Metal gears,tailstock camlok etc.Over a period of time
I did most of the major mods and threaded them.I was very happy with the lathe until the board blew and i then upgraded to the SC4 which I am happy with
However I miss certain functions of the smaller lathe.The tumbler reverse gears
to disconnect or reverse the leadscrew.The ability to pick it up and move it around without bolting down etc etc
When rearranging my tiny shed I realised I had room for a second lathe 7x14
I ordered the cheapest one I could find $630,plastic gears but had a tailstock camlok,a 4" chuck which I assumed was an 80mm and a 550w motor,so I ordered one with the intension of doing a no of mods before I put it to use
Second time around should be quicker and more efficient.I have learned a lot since my first one.
So I made the mods to one end of the shed and built a 10" wide bench and drawers.Lathe arrived today,order took 3 days.Packed in heavy duty cardboard boxes and at first inspection looks ok.Took off the old plug  and fitted an ozzie one.Everything as stated,with the 4" chuck and a 72mm spindle housing.Wasnt expecting that,now all my chucks will fit both lathes
Had the lathe running and only problem so far is when the speed dial is
rotated to 0 it still keeps turning slightly.Any advice.This will keep me interested in Life for a while.Nice to be able to strip down and still have a lathe and mill for making parts


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## goldstar31 (Apr 7, 2017)

Baz, I presume that both machines have mainly interchangeable bits. I've got Myfords and whilst they are not quite everyone's ideas of perfection, I can swop between both and also so called 'Myford' fittings on my mill and grinders.  

It's quite ancient and not really worth much in terms of 'investment' but it works well.

Regards

Norman


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## bazmak (Apr 7, 2017)

Yes that's why I bought the cheapest I could find,most parts fit both lathes
so no need to pay for extras,and I wanted to fully mod it at leisure
What blissit on its new bench then pick it up,turn around and place it on my workbench,and I have a lathe and mill to use while I mod it at my leisure
Unusual in that the first 7" lathe had a 55mm spindle nose and I had a 3Jaw 
and collet chuck to fit mu rotary table and indexing head.But the lathe has a 4" 3jaw with 72mm spindle the same as the C4 so everything fits.I am also going
to buy the QCTP for it as I have not ever had one.Money saved on the lathe 
buys it.Ready to rock


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## goldstar31 (Apr 7, 2017)

Hi Barry- I'll not be the only one who will look forward to your future exploits.

As for QCTP's , I have two and should never look a pair of gift horses in the mouth. 

I suspect that I will be offered a second hand 7 x ??? in the near future. Really, I must Metricate or whatever it is called as it is far cheaper to buy petrified stuff here now. 

Yesterday, I came home with a subtable so that I could transfer Imperial stuff onto my 'terrified' mill drill.

I've gone Apple and now hope that some kind offspring will teach me how to post or whatever the latest buzz word describes it

Happy Easter everyone.

Norm


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## Wizard69 (Apr 7, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Yes that's why I bought the cheapest I could find,most parts fit both lathes
> 
> so no need to pay for extras,and I wanted to fully mod it at leisure
> 
> ...




Sounds like a good move for extending your shop capacity.    These 7x ??? Lathes often end up serving needs similar to watch makers lathes that where common in hobby shops at one time.    That is a small lathe to handle delicate stuff.   

As for the QCTP try to find one suitable for both lathes if you can.  The idea being to be able to use holders on both lathes.  Do be aware of a possible negative here, which is the lack of stiffness in these small QCTP.  A DIY design might make sense.


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## Herbiev (Apr 7, 2017)

Looks great Baz. Where did you buy it from?


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## oldboy (Apr 7, 2017)

The 250-000 QCTP will fit both your machines, however not available in Aus can be obtained from Arc Euro in England or LMS  in the US.

Barry


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## joco-nz (Apr 8, 2017)

Multiple lathes hmmm ... one day.  Looks like a fun little project.


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## bazmak (Apr 8, 2017)

Herbie I bought the lathe on Ebay from amazing items Search metal lathe
and you see lots of blue ones $660 free postage or $610 with $50 postage
Lots of supplies,came from Sydney made an offers and finished at $630
Well I stripped down the carriage.No nasty surprises.Castings were good
No fiiler to hidden areas but there again no paint.Lots of sharp edges.Deburred
and cleaned up .Carriage ways were finished well so fixed wet and dry and 
polished/bedded in the carriage.First job was new gib plates,the supplied ones were all loose and the lathe would have been unworkable
When I modded the original 7x16 I played with adjusting the existing plts
No good,so I made new ones beefier from brass and mounted with studs
big improvement but then did the tapered gib mod.The Bees Knees
The rear gib is the most important as the cutting action tries to lift the carriage
Lots of room so I made the tapered gib mod
The front gib is more congested and is not as important as the cutting forces 
push the carriage down on to the ways and a couple of thou play is ok
so I made a heavier gib plate machined down to give 2 thou play which I can shim if required.The carriage is now nice and solid and free,if need be I 
may bed down with lapping paste.Its just a question of how far to go
I am doing this mainly for the exercise don't know how much use 
I will get out of the lathe.Thoughts so far.The lathe is everything I expected
from the cheapest version I could find,but would not be satisfactory for
anyone who is prepared some time and effort in improving/modding


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## rodw (Apr 8, 2017)

Looks good Baz, I forget how clean my lathe was before I started to actually use it!



joco-nz said:


> Multiple lathes hmmm ... one day.  Looks like a fun little project.



Nah, build your own CNC one. I know you want to and so do you!


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## bazmak (Apr 14, 2017)

I did this mod to my first lathe.No mill so I ground and chiselled the
carriage,made a new extended housing and fitted skate brgs which I found to be not necessary.Much simpler this time around.Milled out the underside
of the carriage to expose an additional 20mm of leadscrew thread
Made a 25mm brass housing extension to act as a bush/brg and made a
simple leadscrew extension.Cross slide travel now increased from 65mm to 100mm
All at the front where its required.This mod took a couple of hrs the original
mod too quite a few days.Far simpler and works really well.Also cleaned up the cross slide and checked adjusted the gibs.Casting and gib good just needed to 
deburr everything and may put a coat of paint to the inside faces
I am really enjoying this.The next mod is one I did not do to the original lathe
That is to get rid of the 2 locking cap screws to the compound and fit locking
screws to the sides


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## goldstar31 (Apr 14, 2017)

Thanks, Barry for continuing a creative and informative account!

I've been following the market trends here and note the huge drop of second hand prices here in the UK. So I DID get a further phone call about a similar metric lathe! which has been no where and done precious little.

I'll try to keep up to date although the continuing family matters take priority. This is only a game not a LIFE

Cheers

N

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I suppose that it is already 'organised chaos' having just had a phone call from yet another Goldstar. A merlin and Griffon engine fitter (1949 vintage).  As one used to say 'Balls to Doctor Bangalstein!'
N


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## bazmak (Apr 15, 2017)

This is a worthwhile mod that I never got to do on the original 7x16 lathe
Well worth the effort,about 3 hrs.Basically to get rid of those 2 annoying
cap screws that can only be got at by removing the compound.Basically the same as used on the MYFORD lathe Photos are self explanatory. PHOTO BUCKET DELETED
Note,i was not happy with this mod as cutting forces rocked the compound so i took
it back to its original design with the 2 hidden capscrews


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## DJP (Apr 15, 2017)

It looks like 3 hours of entertainment and pleasure instead of work. I too will replace worn or poorly designed parts with more robust versions so I share your satisfied feeling.

Thanks for sharing.


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## bazmak (Apr 16, 2017)

Made a simple scale/protractor from 1.5mm alum angle so I 
have access to the new compound locking screws
Marked the angles from the old plastic one but not overly happy
Will probably remake in the future with more professional engraving
However all 3 slides are adjusted and work well.The 2 main mods also work well.Assembled everything back together and its starting to feel like a lathe
Have not done anything with the apron yet but one thing does need doing is
the plastic carriage handle has stripped threads to the grubscrew and is not
square to the shaft.WOBBLES.Not a big issue but will probably fit a better handle when I do the apronmods etc.Next is to strip it all down again
so I can start on the tailstock alignment and mods.Its wonderful when the stripdown only takes minutes.Will soon be able to use it and make a few items
Carriage lock and stop etc


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## mechman48 (Apr 16, 2017)

rodw said:


> Looks good Baz, I forget how clean my lathe was before I started to actually use it!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## bazmak (Apr 17, 2017)

I stripped the lathe down,about 10mins bliss.I used my new digital height gauge to check the headstock and tailstock heights.The tailstock measured 3 thou higher.PERFECT (or so I thought).Fixed wet and dry to the bed ways
and did some polishing,and without checking I knew it was perfect.???
I then took the tailstock apart and between the upper and lower castings a brass shim fell out,6 thou bloody chinese.So I had to start again checking
heights and tailstock for horizontal.After 1 hr I finished up with a single
10 thou shim in the same place the other fell out.Now to start the mods
Took it all apart,deburred,tapped holes,fitted new screws etc.Had to skim
10 thou off the bearing housing to reduce backlash to near zero and with some grease etc got it turning nicely.Feels right.Then started modding
1-changed the cap screw from uside access to top access
2-Fitted blocks and push/pull screws for lateral adjustment
3-Cleaned and modded the clamping T block.
Photos tell the story


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## bazmak (Apr 18, 2017)

Made and fitted a brass block with push screws to rear
Block also increases tailstock footprint for better stability
Next to check the alignment


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## bazmak (Apr 19, 2017)

First I set out align the tailstock.Just eying with a loupe.Front to back was easy
with the push/pull screws.Vertical was more fiddly.Where the 6 thou shim dropped out I replaced with 10 thou and finally finished with 8 thou.I then used the 6" rule method to fine tune.First time use for me and so easy
Final test will be to turn a test piece for parallel.For the purists I know
that the centres are spot on in 2 planes but are the headstock and tailstock
2 dimensionally inline with the ways.Will need to buy or make a No2 MT test bar to find out at a later stage.Made a simple carriage lock.Almost ready to 
turn her on and make chips.Seems a shame to get her dirty


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## goldstar31 (Apr 19, 2017)

Might I add a comment, please?

Of course Barry's most useful comments about a 6" rule are really only valid on a new or unworn lathe. Having said that, using a rule or whatever to set a lathe tool IS a good way to set up things- or round things on  a mill

Thanks Barry

Norm


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## bazmak (Apr 29, 2017)

With the money I saved on the lathe I bought a qctp.The cheap small one made from aluminium.Now like me half an engineer would laugh at the thought
of an alum toolpost.Its a no no. However I knew tis one would fit directly to the 7x14 lathe and I planned to setup with a collet chuck and just use the lathe
for light duty and small items.In mind I thought that I could make a cloned larger version in steel with all dims to be increased etc.Worth $50
It duly arrived nicely boxed with 4 toolholders and a boring bar.Looks and feel like a toy with lots of play in the dovetails,but I am confident it will be fine
for what I have in mind.I made a basic turning tool and new tool holder in steel
.Ready to make chips but I don't want to get the lathe dirty


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## Johno1958 (Apr 29, 2017)

She is a beaut Baz.
Happy chips


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## bazmak (Apr 30, 2017)

Ready to make chips even though I don't want to get the lathe dirty
First job is a half dozen brass thumbscrews to suit the QCTP
and for this I made another tool holder to accept my mark3 cut knurling tool
Now I have a line up of tools for this job shown in sequence of ops
Watch this space and we will see how it all goes


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## Niels Abildgaard (Apr 30, 2017)

Hello Bazmak

What is distance  between compound slide upper surface and centerline?
Am asking because my next and lower mass lathe migth as well be a 7*14.
What is distance from central clamping down stud to one of the corners?

Kind regards

Niels


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## bazmak (Apr 30, 2017)

Good morning Neils ,you will be looking to fit a diamond tool to the lathe ??
As am I shortly.Will let you know by a post if its ok
The compound is 50mm wide and the centre stud 25mm from the front
Therefore its 45o the corner 25x1.414= 35.3mm.You are probably looking
at the tool downhang clearing.If so I will check it out when I next make a 
toolholder for the QCTP and a diamond tool. Regards barry
Ps sorry missed the most important dim top of compound to centreline is 18.5mm


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## bazmak (May 1, 2017)

Well,i have just christened the lathe.Made a dozen brass thumb screws
6 no at m5 and 6 no at m4.By the time I got to the last few it was production 
line quality.The knurl head worked well.From my practice runs in the other thread the worst finish was on brass.So it seemed on the first couple of thumbscrews,however I finally figured it out.Got the speed right and hand fed
in AND then handfed out.The outfeed seems to take a fine clean up cut
The lathe performed well with a few niggles surfacing as is want when 
finally using.All will be dealt with later.What I was pleased with is I power
fed in the tap and reversed out which I cannot do on the other lathe
Although the QCTP looks and feels like a toy it works well but I need to try and 
improve the dovetail fit to take up slack.Tools worked well although the parting and chamfering tools need a sharpen.Very pleased so far


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## Niels Abildgaard (May 1, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Good morning Neils ,you will be looking to fit a diamond tool to the lathe ??
> As am I shortly.Will let you know by a post if its ok
> The compound is 50mm wide and the centre stud 25mm from the front
> Therefore its 45o the corner 25x1.414= 35.3mm.You are probably looking
> ...



Hello Baz

No Eccentric Diamond in my house but Homemade TanTool ,stray dogs and ladies are wellcome.
I have some 25 mm square mild steel waiting for a modified 2mm square carbide stick.
Made a couple for Myfords that are only 16.7mm high and that is marginal.
18.5 is very nice.


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## ShopShoe (May 1, 2017)

Bazmak,

I really like this thread about modifying a mini-lathe from just-purchased. I have a list of mods in my head for when I decide to attack mine for the next round of improvements and adjustments.  Thanks for posting your adventures in machine modification and improvement.

If we can't afford much, we have to make the best of what we have. 

I like the way the thumbscrews turned out: I need to make some myself "one of these days."

Thanks again,

--ShopShoe


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## bazmak (May 1, 2017)

Thanks shopshoe , I am really enjoying this lathe,the mods are so easy
the second time around,you know the best ones and the easiest way
Its also so simple when you have a second lathe and mill.The world is your oyster.As for the thumbscrews they were also on my to do list but I kept
putting them off because of the difficulty of knurling.Now its a breeze and
so simple.Lots of minor mods now I have used the lathe.Will keep posting
WILL SOMEONE PLEASE MAKE THE CUT KNURLER AND POST


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## bazmak (May 2, 2017)

Did a couple of mods to the mini QCTP.Made a new locking handle
and superglued a 4 thou steel shim to the body dovetail.This has 
made a big improvement.The 4 thou shim perfect for the tightest
tool holder.Funny it looked a lot more play than 4 thou
I also made another tool holder.Getting quicker and more accurate
this one was a good fit to the shimmed body.Then proceeded to machine
it to become a diamond tool holder with the last bit of 2mm sq carbide
given to me Neils.Still work in progress but for my application it does not
do any more than the RCT tool I made.Apart from getting a nice square corner
Because of the way I made it and the limited tool height of 18.5mm I used
an M3 cap screw to set the tool height and the holder bottoms on the compound just in case your wondering why no brass thumb screw
Still playing.When I first used the lathe I made a list of niggles but lost it
cant remember all the minor mods but they will come back.Waiting for a 
couple of cast iron handwheels from China then I can improve the apron[
and carriage travel


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## goldstar31 (May 2, 2017)

Hi Baz!

Steering back to your original ideas, where have you got to in your intention to use your second lathe as a collet one?

Regards

Norman

Hint-- I normally buy the family 'pressies' on MY birthday. Time perhaps for 'little me' as well


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## bazmak (May 2, 2017)

Hi Norm. only the ER32 collet chuck as seen in the photos this will give accuracy for the small items,can still use the 3 jaw but this will reduce
changing chucks etc.What did you have in mind ? If you have any ideas
please let me know.I may also make a collet chuck to fit the ER 16 collet 
set I bought for the eccentric tool grinder


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## goldstar31 (May 2, 2017)

Hi Barry
               Ignoring all the much repeated hype about tool holders, I'm able to have a small lathe in side my home.  A widower now!
However, I don't want to create a lot of mess inside and using collets to do lots of small bits- in metric measurement seems possible.
 I have 3 sets of collets which fit the Imperial Myfords and a set of ER16's which fit the little Unimat clone but I have literally no clues about fitting collets on one of these Chinese lathes.

As far as things have progressed, there should be a 'cheap' secondhand lathe but it will come with the wrong 3 jaw chuck which is what bloody useless salespeople foist onto the unsuspecting newcomers. 

In other words( ?), I confess to picking your brain about something that hasn't been fully explained in other people's postings.

My regards

Norman


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## bazmak (May 2, 2017)

Hi Norm,if you have any questions please send a PM.If you look thru my past threads I bought an er32 collet set and R8 holder for my mini mill.I then made a collet chuck to mount to my first mini lathe.No more difficult than making
a backplate.Turned the mating recess,drill holes,bolt to spindle then turn
anything you want true to the lathe.When I sold the first 7x14 I kept the chuck
to mount on the RT.Then Sc4 lathe had a 72mm spigot ,not 55mm so I bought
a er32 collet chuck as shown in the photos,which fits this lathe.Dont know if
its worth making one to fit the er16 collets.What lathe do you have, the ML10?
I think the more compact collet chuck on this lathe will be of better use than
a 3 jaw  chuck,i have less centre distance than before.I am thinking of fitting an
alum. knurled grip ring to one of the collet knuts,quicker release by hand
rather than using the C spanner.Anything your interested in let me know
and I can post photos etc Regards barry


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## Niels Abildgaard (May 2, 2017)

Hello Baz

I guess You were not the easiest kid in school.
Let me make  a Niels Abildgaard TanTool holder that fits Your new,delicious lathe and  You push it as hard as possible and compare with all other  toolsystems?
If accepting challenge, let me now how long the virgin 2mm toolbit can be,confirm the 18.5mm(one decimal more eventually?) and the 50 times 50mm of the compound slide combat zone.
Photo show one made for a 918 lathe and 22.5 and not 18.5 mm high.


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## goldstar31 (May 2, 2017)

Thanks Barry.
The situation is now clearer regarding the proposed metric Sieg.
As it stands, I have both a Myford Super7 with gear box and a smaller ML10( without) and a little Unimat clone and a watchmaker's lathe. So I have LOT of 'goodies'  but really didn't know how to possibly utilise what I've got and what I have to buy.

So thanks again!

Norm


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## bazmak (May 2, 2017)

Thank you Niels I would like to accept your offer and will post some photos 
and more accurate information.
Hi Norm,will take some photos and post some details/advise.Let me know
the sellers name of the chinese version you find available,they are all the
same but different (gobbledigook).Also what price and availability of extras
Then you can decide what to buy and what to make.Basically all the 7" chinese lathes are seig what minor differences and all extras fit all lathes


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## bazmak (May 3, 2017)

Hi Niels,thank you for your offer I would really like to test
and review your latest revised tool,i know you have invested
a lot of time and effort.Photo shows I think what you are looking for
and should be constant for all sieg Sc2/3 lathes.The tool height is 18.5mm
don't understand why you would want another decimal place ?
One thought I have is why use 2mm sq carbide its so small and fiddly
surely 3mm would be a lot better.Still small enough to do really fine work
Regards Barry


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## bazmak (May 3, 2017)

A few photos to help you try and make tooling more interchangeable
All 80mm chucks have a 55mm recess and drilled for M6 fixings
All 100mm chucks have a 72mm recess with M8 fixings
I thought all 7x lathes had 80mm chucks and 55mm spindle
however when I received this lathe it had a 100mm chuck and 72mm spigot
All to my advantage as my 8x20 sieg has the same and therefore interchangeable.I also bought a 125mm 4 jaw S/C chuck which has a 95mm 
spigot.Therefore any fittings can fit or be fitted with a simple backplate
All available to buy or easy to make.Any questions ? Let me know what you 
have in mind to buy,new or SH.The 7x14 is the smallest I would buy,i think
the centres on the 7x12 would be too restrictive.If you look at my tailstock chuck post you will see what I mean. Regards barry


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## bazmak (May 3, 2017)

The first time I used the lathe to make the brass thumbscrews I did not have any major issues.However I used the 16mm keyless chuck from the bigger lathe,and its far too big so I will order a 10mm one ,more compact.With already
restricted of centres at 350mm you need all the room you can get.
Also when the MT2 seated the quill was out 25mm of max 40mm travel
I have removed 13mm from the quill feed screw and I will remove the tang when mu new chuck arrives.My existing live centre has no tang and fits ok
Also made a locking handle extension


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## bazmak (May 3, 2017)

Norm you could if you wish make a backplate to fit the sieg with a Myford nose
Don't think it would be worth the effort.If going with my train of thought
then you can use the small lathe to make small items indoors in bad weather
One big advantage with the ER32 collet set is you can hold any size from 2mm to 20mm.I use it for holding threads without damage,and I have in mind
making and fitting a knurled alum ring,so I can close the collet by hand
I sometimes close the nut handtight for delicate items and with light cuts don't get slip.The beauty of this lathe is that it doesn't need bolting down and 
you can pick it up and move it about


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## Niels Abildgaard (May 3, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Hi Niels,thank you for your offer I would really like to test
> and review your latest revised tool,i know you have invested
> a lot of time and effort.Photo shows I think what you are looking for
> and should be constant for all sieg Sc2/3 lathes.The tool height is 18.5mm
> ...



Hello Baz
Is it 25 mm to edge or center of M10 hole?
I have given away all round and 3mm square carbide and holders 
The real virtue of system is easy resharpening and 4 square mm is definately easier than 9 

http://i.imgur.com/K7UxbJy.jpg


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## bazmak (May 3, 2017)

Hi Niels,its 25mm to cline of tapped hole.Can I ask why discontinue the 3mm sq
carbide.Did it not work as well


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## goldstar31 (May 3, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Hi Norm,will take some photos and post some details/advise.Let me know
> the sellers name of the chinese version you find available,they are all the
> same but different (gobbledigook).Also what price and availability of extras
> Then you can decide what to buy and what to make.Basically all the 7" chinese lathes are seig what minor differences and all extras fit all lathes


 
It 's secondhand and being sold on behalf of a friend!

From what I can glean ,it is 'gey auld' by Chinese lathe standards.


Really, it is all a whim as I'm already nudging 87, have COPD, profoundly deaf and fighting - like most- senile dementure.

On a lighter note, I'm not in the Average Debt category of £13,000 which excludes mortgages:hDe:


So fingers crossed- or look East for the next  miracle

Cheers

N


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## bazmak (May 3, 2017)

If you can afford it then do it.Im spending more on tooling than
I have ever done.No one to pass it on to.Some one somewhere
will get some bargains.Stuff we dream of.Only ever happened
to me once.Bought a green super 7 for 1000 pounds virtually
unused with lots of genuine Myford accessories.Swivel vertical slide
and vice,collets and chucks etc. Like a fool I sold for 1200 pounds when 
came back to Oz.If only I had boxed and shipped it. Or well
Buy it post some photos and we can open a thread


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## Niels Abildgaard (May 3, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Hi Niels,its 25mm to cline of tapped hole.Can I ask why discontinue the 3mm sq
> carbide.Did it not work as well



3mm square works very well but takes longer to resharpen.
If You run 1.9mm wide brown or blue swarf most amateur lathes are on limit.
2mm square is more than sufficient on my Boxford.

If Tantool holder heigth is 20mm or less(Myfords are 16.7) it becomes difficult, unsecure to have more than 2mm tool and M6 screw due to clearences.


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## Blogwitch (May 3, 2017)

Baz,
I think you have made a wise choice with the SC 4 jaw chuck.

I have been using them for many years now, and even though they are of far eastern manufacture, I have found them to be far superior with regards to runout than standard 3 jaws of the same size, I have 3, and all run with less than 0.001" runout. Plus I also find them a little more versatile than a 3 jaw as they can hold both round and square stock which are the usual shapes we need to hold, but if I need to hold some hex, I have to revert to a 3 jaw.

Almost all far eastern lathes suffer from lack of taper locking in the tailstock quill, and can catch you out sometimes when the drill sticks in the hole it is drilling and start to spin the chuck. I designed a system of preventing that, but requires a tang to be fitted, but if you don't want to use a tang, I am sure that you could machine a flat on the small end of your chuck and centre tapers.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=24120


John


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## goldstar31 (May 3, 2017)

bazmak said:


> If you can afford it then do it.Im spending more on tooling than
> I have ever done.No one to pass it on to.Some one somewhere
> will get some bargains.Stuff we dream of.Only ever happened
> to me once.Bought a green super 7 for 1000 pounds virtually
> ...


 
Ah, if only!:hDe:.


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## bazmak (May 3, 2017)

Thanks John, I very rarely hold hex and often hold square.So I decided
I wanted a 5" chuck so why not SC 4jaw. Came in handy for the Turners cubes
Not cheap, about $260 but well worth it.I have damaged my 4" 4 jaw independent,so may also go for the 5".Works well with my 8" lathe
With the sieg system,the bolt on chuck is locked anyway,only need a backplt to increase from 4 to 5".I had a 5" with my super 7 centre height if remember
just under 7"


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## goldstar31 (May 3, 2017)

I agree with John about the 4 jaw SC chuck. Mine has a Myford body as have all the other chucks, face and catchplates but I obviously have 3 sets of collets and things which evoke some rather unnecessary and unwelcome  criticism having come- like me- from a distant generation. 

What bugs me is the blatant fact that Metric stuff is as cheap as chips whilst getting Imperial stuff is a bit like finding rocking horse manure. Tossing half a ton of coins ( £500) into the circus ring seems logical- and almost negligible. 

Heigh Ho

Norm


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## Niels Abildgaard (May 3, 2017)

Hello Baz

Need Your postal adress.Tool angles look and are not correct but it works OK.Do not Gorilla the screw.
Brown swarf is to slow


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## DJP (May 3, 2017)

'Neigh Ho?' in Cantonese is a greeting like 'How are you going?'. 

It's nice to see this level of friendliness in the forum.

You can simply reply 'Ho' which means I go OK.


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## bazmak (May 5, 2017)

The lathe sits on 4 rubber feet on the same centres as the lathe bolt downholes
Bit disconcerting when ntightening things up of checking gibs for play
and the lathe wobbles about.Also I needed to raise nom 40mm so made 
and fitted alum riser plts with a bigger footprint to the existing holes and under the tray, then refitted the feet at larger centres.Perfect height and much reduced wobble.I also chamfered a length of alum flat and carefully filed the bottom corner until the toolholders just click on .Screwed it to the wall and 
room for further family.
To get the cross slide off you have to remove the back cover which is held with 4 no cap screws,so fitted long grub screws to the 2 no end holes as studs 
and fitted 2 of my brass finger nuts Easy Peasy.Also fitted 2 additional cap screws to the cross slide gib which can act as further adjustment or cross slide lock. Simples. Stripped down the apron,debured refitted the dovetail etc
and made a 1.5mm thk alum cover to the traverse gears to keep grease in and swarfe out.Waiting for a new cast iron handwheel and some thrust bearings to finalise the apron .Feeling much better already.The lathe not me


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## Niels Abildgaard (May 5, 2017)

Many years ago a canadian improved his Myford.It carries a lesson.
ery cheap and effective

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=15300&page=7


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## Blogwitch (May 5, 2017)

Hi Baz,

I notice your tool holder on the wall behind your lathe.
I used to have mine hung similar to that, but very soon started to run out of storage space for them.

Have a look at this post, it shows a very easy way to gather them together in a more compressed state.

You would need to make for your size of holder, but well worth it in the long run.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,873.0.html


John


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## bazmak (May 6, 2017)

Thanks for posting John,if my family goes above a dozen I will give it try
Well I played about with gibbs again,made a couple of mods with some
machining,the lathe is starting to feel really good.Will keep improving as
I find more niggles.Next job is the improve the handwheels when new ones arrive from China.Meanwhile I made an accurate tool height gauge.Fed up
with measuring with a rule all the time.Works well set all my tool to centre
height and sharpened a few.Also didn't kike the 2 long cap screws holding the plastic cover on the end of the headstock.Also remember from the first lathe
chips traveling thru the spindle and dropping on the changegears so solved 
both problems and got to make a couple more brass thumb


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## goldstar31 (May 6, 2017)

I think that the use of a magnet on your tool height gauge is a useful thing. Unfortunately, my venture towards a Chinese/Far Eastern lathe has failed to materialise.

Having to revert to Plan B, there seems no reason not to add DRO's to the old Myford ML10- and press the relevant button to go from Imperial into Metric and Vicky verkie.

So I'm booked for a train ride to the Doncaster Show and what I had set aside for a birthday present for myself can be added to the little Myford instead.

My kids think that it's a great idea, too

Norm


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## Blogwitch (May 6, 2017)

Hi Baz,

A couple of good ideas there, and I see you are using your knurler to the full, except that I personally hate magnets around my machinery except for picking up swarf, which they do with ease and are hard to eradicate completely.

I was given a brand new very expensive American optical centre dot finder, unfortunately the main block was a large magnet to allow it to stick to steel piece parts. 
After the first use on steel sheet it was unusable afterwards because it attracted every tiny bit of swarf and corrosion within about 6" to it, including up the hole that the precision fitted sighting scope was to slide into, making it impossible to fit into the base without scratching onto tiny particles of steel that I just couldn't see to get them out. I managed to give it away to a chap that knew no better.

John


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## goldstar31 (May 6, 2017)

Magnetising? Well, I went too an auction of clock and watch stuff. Came back home with a £4 professional  demagnetiser thing.

Had the old Seiko Seamaster on it, son borrowed it for his Rolex( hum), did my late wife's carriage clock and apart from the workshop use, it is costing 'pennies' to do things. In fact, I'm into profit because son bought me a proper little wallet of watchmaking repair tools!

Now is time to get the back of the 'Rolex' off and see what is bugging it. After all it was all of  £10 in the Ladies Market on one of my Hog Kong jaunts-  Might be a fake

Not all playing with ancient machinery.

Norm


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## bazmak (May 6, 2017)

Don't like magnets myself but you cant entirely get away from them
Dial indicators spring to mind.My 8" s/s digital vernier has become 
magnetised and its a pain.I bought a cheap carbon fibre one for that 
problem and when it arrived it only read to 1 dec. place on mm and 
2 places on imperial that's to 2thou on metric and to 5 thou on imperial
Initially I was very disappointed,then realised I was using it all the time instead of a 6"rule.For all non tight tolerance work its ideal and non
magnetic.Will get a couple more at $5 a pop.Norm I have had thoughts floating around for a poss. project.Have you any knowledge of trying to
relace the tailstock with a 6 way turret assy ??  Way back I posted a thread
on converting a woodturning lathe to a metal lathe.Fabbed up thr carriage etc
It was fairly successful and I did use it before returning it to its originl
state.A 6 way turret as a taolstock carriage with gear drive thru the
existing rack etc,etc might not be too far fetched.Any input


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## goldstar31 (May 6, 2017)

Baz,

Several ;points arise.
The first was a 'plastic' Vernier which I found in my late wife's orthodontic tool kit. It probably had been sterilised too many times and is rock solid. 

As for a tail turret, I have yet to sort out a 6 station one that probably fits the saddle. One of those round tuits! However there is a Ken Metcalf one that he fitted to a Myford ML7. Maybe you have it in your download.

However, Sparey made drawings for his and that appears in his Amateurs Lathe book. Otherwise, Myford DID make a capstan attachment to fit on a ML7 lathe bed. I came across it whilst doing a sort out- probably when the turret affair finally materialised.

Does this help, please. I am in the midst( mist?) of sorting tax and estate problems but drop me an e-mail and I'll try to find something amongst my stuff. 

Off hand, I think that JohnB has raised this matter too.

Regards

Norman

As a sort of addendum, I have traced TWO Myford ones from a French site. Unfortunately, I think that they are too poor to copy but both are really for collets which is where you came in.

There is the Cleeve one which was rack operated but I'll have to rack( ouch) to find the French site all this stuff was printed.


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## bazmak (May 8, 2017)

Thank you Blogwitch for pointing me towards a better system.Likr the more compact setup but didn't like the pins.You know me always looking to further improve.I cut 20 no pieces of 25x3 alum angle and filed a small chamfer to obtain a nice sling fit .Screwed to a piece of timber and then to the wall
Works a treat


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## bazmak (May 25, 2017)

For those reading my threads will know I am currently making a capstan/turret
I have reached a certain stage and wanted to drop back to this thread so I was 
familiar with what is required to return to normal.Simple,just remove the leadscrew bracket (2 screws) and wind/slide off the capstan I 1 or 2 assys
Slide back on the main carriage ,refit the leadscrew brkt and tailstock and good to go.Next mod was the carriage handwheel.The 80mm dia plastic one had split next to the grubscrew and was wobbly.My new 100mm cast iron one had arrived so proceeded to fit as photos show.Looks much better and silky smooth.When I used the lathe to make thumbscrews the 16mm keyless chuck was way too big so I ordered a new 10mm one.I machined 12mm off the quill feed screw,cut of the tang from the chuck and gained an extra 40mm
Photos tell the tale.Dont know whats next for lathe mods but will fluctuate between this thread and the capstan/turret mod


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## bazmak (May 26, 2017)

I plan to do some single point threading on this lathe.2 no er16 collet chucks
for the turret,and from my memories long long ago whats threading without
trying to hit line with a dial.Bought one awhile ago local off ebay only $25
Decided to fit it,and although its standard for the 7" mini lathe its not just bolt on.had to drill and tap the apron 2 posns for fixings and mill a rebate to
clear the gibb screws.This one has some design changes,i noted the addition
of 2 ball races for the carriage drive.No big deal, anyway works great and fun


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## bazmak (May 29, 2017)

I have mentioned on my other thread that the only thing stopping the
capstan assy winding straight off the lathe was the top part of the leadscrew
brkt and it was no problem.I decided it was simple to fix,i milled off the top section of the brkt and drilled/tapped for a secondary fixing.Now the capstan
winds off without removing the brkt and the tailstock drops on.
The power cable came out of the rear of the back cover and with my limited
space was in danger of damage so I bored a new conduit hole and took the lead out of the top.Much better.I have also started single point screw cutting
with this lathe which I will post on the capstan thread.Looking good so far
The thread indicator works well but instead of trying to catch a line,i approach the work using the carriage handwheel and the lathe off,engage the leadscrew in the correct position and start the lathe.I an only cutting 6 or 7 threads in length,the slow speed bogs down and the lowest I can use is just a bit too fast
so I am reverting to the safe method and turning the chuck by hand.I have cut under powerbut still not confident enough to do everything by the book


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## bazmak (May 30, 2017)

I have just spent over half a day screwcutting 2 collet chucks M22x1.5
Had some fun changing the plastic gears,they don't come off easily
Then proceeded screwcutting.Got much easier as I got more familiar
Got down to the last 3 thou on the second one when the carriage started playing up.I had not done the final bedding in on the gibs and they were
slopping about.Reoved the chuck and job and decided to strip down the lathe
Knew I would have to at some time.Could not get a decent adjustment due
to problems with the bed.The tailstock and headsock ends were about 3 thou
bigger than the middle.With the lathe totally stripped I spent a couple of hours with a 4" angle grinder,files emery paper etc to remove the excess from the underside of the ways.Got it down to about a thou then reset the gibs
Much improved so put it all back together and finished the last few thou
on the threading.Satisfying but very frustrating.I should have finished everything off the first time.Screwcutting very successful and the thread dial
made it much easier


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## bazmak (Jun 4, 2017)

I finished the T slot sub table which is designed to be changed quickly
and can be used with or without the capstan/turret.Also made a front mounting block for the QCTP and hallway thru making a rear parting off toolpost


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## bazmak (Jun 4, 2017)

I made the rear parting off tool post.Started with a 65mm length of 50mm MSt
Tenoned the underside to fit the T slot with a single M8 fixing.Ready for overall
video now before I strip down and start tidying loose ends ,add some bling etc
and start using it.I have in my head ideas for a tapping head and a self 
release die box to fit the turrets.Will post what I do as I do it etc
I have shot a video and will post it on the capstan thread


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## JCSteam (Jun 5, 2017)

A possibly stupid question, how do you work out what height to cut the slot for the cut off tool? Is it just the height of the centre of the lathe, then 5mm or 4mm above and below the centre line?


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## bazmak (Jun 5, 2017)

I simply measured the tool and cut to suit lathe centre height
With this parting off tool,the top of the blabe was level with the
top face of the clamping flange.A parting off tool needs to be dead on centre height.I sometimes mount the blade at 5o to produce top rake and avoid having to grind top rake.In this case it was level so any grinding of the tool will
change the height and I will have to pack.Easy enough to do


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## goldstar31 (Jun 5, 2017)

Mine is one with the blade inverted and with a built in rake of 7 degrees. Ideally, it was suggested that a 140 degree internal vee be ground so as to peel off the swarf in nice curls. Instead of screwing up one of my abrasive disks for what was a grind of only an inch, I did a round curve rather than a vee. In this case, the disk was a worn out one from an angle grinder.

It means that rare re grinds do not alter the inverted tool top. Not original but works admirably.

Norm


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## bazmak (Jun 5, 2017)

I agree Norm,i have a no of parting off tools with a couple of homemade 
ones with the blade set at 5/7o.With this rear tool post I just fitted a commercial one I had spare with a tool ground down for cutting circlip grooves
I just fitted it inverted for the rear tool post.What I have in mind at a later
date is to machine the other side to fit a blade at 7o rake as the toolpost can be turned 180o and both sides used.. No getting past us Yorkshire folk


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## bazmak (Jun 6, 2017)

With all the major parts made and fitted its time to go back over everthing
reworking minor niggles and fine tuning the mods.When I bought the lathe
phase 1 was to make carriage gibs and adjust to a couple of thou.I did not touch the bed.After screwcutting,excess play became apparent so phase 2
The bed was 2/3 thou big at the headstock and tailstock ends so I ground and polished the underside of the ways to within 1 thou.Much better but still not happy.This was the reason for buying the lathe ,so to theNth degree was phase3.I had not touched the top of the ways as they looked to be a quality ground finish,however the regular bedding in of the carriages had highlighted
high spots on the V only 10ths of a thou but like a ploughed field
I purchased some lapping paste from the local auto store and purely for the
exercise spent half a day lapping in the ways and fitting the main carriage
to my mind a perfect sliding fit.Smooth,just what I was looking for.Then spent the other half day fitting the turret carriage.Beautiful,i must say its a lot easier
when the bed is correct


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## bazmak (Jun 13, 2017)

I made a die head for the capstan.A knurled holder to fit the capstan and a knurled head to hold 25mm dies.A 5mm silver steel pin acts as a drive and set to length.The die is pushed on to the job and pulls away from the holder
when the end of the pin is reached the drive stops and the head rotates on the job.The lathe is stopped and the knurled head is unscrewed.Looks good in theory but when I set up I found that the lathe does not have enough uummff at slow speed and rather than risk damage to the plastic gears I stopped for a rethink.Will next try alum and then brass but for steel I need to think again.
The plastic change gears are not being used with the leadscrew disconnected
only the tumbler gears so have in mind to make new ones in brass or steel
The lathe will bog down before any damage,so that is my next exercise
Also will look at an adaptor so I can use the diehead in the bigger lathe










Also have seen a neat mechanism in MEW for a small 4 jaw self centering tap holder.Lots to go at.


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## bazmak (Jun 22, 2017)

When browsing thru a model eng workshop issue I saw an interesting little
mechanism for holding a tap.A self centering 4 jaw chuck,purely out of interest
I decided to make one to interchange with the die head.Taps can be held in chucks or collets and the slip helps prevent too much torque being applied
and tap breakage occurring,but thought I would give it a try anyway
2 no 2 MT reamers arrived from china so I fine tuned the 2 housings
Also machined the 2nd side of the rear tool post at 7o for a parting blade
Then it was time to set up and use the lathe capstan to do a full set of ops
and make a brass thumb screw.All worked well with a few minor niggles tosort out.The tapping head did M6 in brass ok but not enough uumff for the M6 diehead.Will need a rethink and play about.Turning,knurling and parting off
worked well with the compound removed and table fitted.Capstan worked well
used 3 stations for centre drill,drill and tap.Need a little more leverage for the
3 spoke handwheel,will probably make slightly larger spokes.Everything is a little congested but will get used to it with a few minor mods


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## bazmak (Jul 7, 2017)

I have now started to look for areas to improve,sorry no photos due
to photo bucket being greedy,so will just have to post better descriptions
When i did the single point screwcutting the lever at the back jumped out
repeatedly which i have experience previosly and someone mentioned in a thread and jammed a piece of timber under the lever.This i had also done 
just to get me past the operation.Decided to look at the whole drive and changegear end.The detent lever is machined to a centre point and locates
in centre pops.Machined down the detent pin to 4mm dia,drilled the housing
to suit and fitted a stronger spring.Much improved,works a treatAlso i wasnt happy with the plastic gears so decided to make the 3 gears in the tumbler reverse.I made a 20t and a 25t from brass and a 45t from steel.Used my
newly purchased set of mod 1 cutters,and the modified R8 holder.Brilliant,
cut the teeth easily at full depth in 1 pass.Also used my indexer for the first 
time with the worm and wheel drive.Works superb,far more accurate and rigid
than with the detent pin and index plate.Only 2 mistakes which i will mention
I thought that the wheel i made was 90t but after a few teeth were cut and 
did not look right i realized the wheel i made was 120t,so had to remake the 45 t gear.The 2 brass gears were no problem although i did forget to change the cutter for the 25t gear.Changed the cutter for the 20t gear and you cant 
really tell the difference.All 3 mesh well.Better than the plastic ones which were approx half a mm down on the OD.Now to put it all back together and try everything out.Will leave the plastic gear train for now and see how it all goes


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## goldstar31 (Jul 7, 2017)

Keep posting please. My promised sort of unknown - but cheep, cheep metric lathe seems to still be available but living under a tarpaulin in the depths of Sunderland. 

I assume that it will have plastic gears which I would have changed as you have done. However, I have finally spent the children's and grandchildren's inheritance on new and effective hearing aids. The racket of metal Myford gears is now appreciated!


Cheers

Norm


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## bazmak (Jul 7, 2017)

Thanks Norm,will see how much noisier it is with metal gears.Not much i assume,silent plastic gears are just a sales pitch to the unwary i think
But with the tumbler reverse its a big benefit to disengage the gear train
for most turning ops.Myford do sell Tufnol tumbler reverse gears for noise
and as failsafe for a jam up.But a Myford can produce a lot of torque with backgears engaged,the chinese mini lathe just bogs down the motor
I did not really need to do it but heck thats what i got the lathe for,just to play about.Next i will try to make a MT3 test bar for the headstock by taper 
turning off setting the tailstock.If i can get it to a couple of thou i can make use of it in both lathes.Also may look at a taper turning attachment.Im not in the 
mood for anymore engines.Would like to make another steam loco but dont 
know if i have enough years left in me,or the finances.I have plans for a 5"
simplex ?


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## goldstar31 (Jul 7, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Thanks Norm,will see how much noisier it is with metal gears.Not much i assume,silent plastic gears are just a sales pitch to the unwary i think
> But with the tumbler reverse its a big benefit to disengage the gear train
> for most turning ops.Myford do sell Tufnol tumbler reverse gears for noise
> and as failsafe for a jam up.But a Myford can produce a lot of torque with backgears engaged,the chinese mini lathe just bogs down the motor
> ...


 
Sort of Deja Vu! I bought the Super7B with a 'few' things wrong but for the encouragement of others, it had been run on a lubrication of mahogany dust:wall:. Well, that was in the gear box! So it had a massive jam up in previous hands so I replaced most of the stripped cogs.I phoned RDG( Myford) this AM for Oilite bushes to replace the noisy ones. New hearing aids and that!

As for taper turning, one of my old mateys- who designed the first fibre glass racing kayak and a DIY hover craft wrote about making a taper turning device utilising the classic 10" sine bar rod and the 1/4" offset- to do 2MT's. He kept his ML7 under the bed- happy days!
So my Morse taper affair is a set over with tailstock poppet. Mine is an Arrand but Hemingwaykits do a kit but I've probably sent you a download. Let me know if you fancy the idea.

As for the Simplex, my 90 year old associate is still on with his. 
Years ago, I was teaching him how to oxy/Acetylene weld the boiler and things were going =hot- and he had a heart attack which meant getting the nitro- glycerine tablets out before rushing him into A&E.:hDe:

Sometime, I'll get a start again with the Acute tool grinder but we had a monsoon and I'm sealing the shed roof yet again. 


Should you really be having a go at a 5" Simplex?

N


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## bazmak (Jul 7, 2017)

Hi Norm,no i am NOT having a go with the simplex i only said i had the plans(drawings)Too long and too expensive at my age.I am just looking for things to do with some of the tools i have made.Thats why i cut the gears
Used my new invalute cutters and the indexer with worm and wheel
Tell me can you offset the tailstock far enough to cut a MT ?. Will have to use a centre and driving dog in the headstock


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## bazmak (Jul 8, 2017)

Well i put everything back together and it does run slightly more noisy
but nothing to worry about.I would rather have the 3 main drive  gears
in brass and steel rather than plastic.I now have spares so i can now 
start getting some work out of the lathe,and i normally disconnect the leadscrew for most machining except for power feed
I have started to make a no3 MT test bar and although the tailstock
can offset sufficiently its too much for stable machining so will have to
try a new setup using the compound.All trial and error


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## goldstar31 (Jul 8, 2017)

bazmak said:


> Hi Norm,no i am NOT having a go with the simplex i only said i had the plans(drawings)Too long and too expensive at my age.I am just looking for things to do with some of the tools i have made.Thats why i cut the gears
> Used my new invalute cutters and the indexer with worm and wheel
> Tell me can you offset the tailstock far enough to cut a MT ?. Will have to use a centre and driving dog in the headstock


 
Apologies but I'm part of a 300 year Tercentary celebration which now involves a 'bunfight' involving some 650 of us and there is no guarantee that we will be returning to our beds at midnight.charity We've already had a WW1 Victoria Cross thing in London complete with the requisite Royalty and a lot of Worldwide invites! 

So the poorest answer will have to do and I would mention that there is a kit listed as HK176X with Hemingwaykits but and described as a Setover center by Ian Bradley.

So where are the drawings, you may ask? I actually found them in the 1950's issues of Popular Mechanics which has the Southbend answers for another poster and also Cleeve's Swing Tool of which I have as an original design.
Again, there is other very interesting ideas which should temp the model engineer who might be surprised at just how much still appears by Googling.

What I alsoi found wsas a set of dimensioned drawings for the Offset Tailstock Center was on 'Country Plans again on the 'net. They may have to be re-dimensioned but look sound enough.

I did ALL this a million years ago and then mentioned that a boring head can usually work if the cutting tool is replaced with a centre/center.

Again, it might necessitate using a half centre or waisted ones or even using ball bearings for female centres.

So tomorrow, I will NOT be sober:wall:

regards

N

NB Can anyone offer dimensions for a missing Woodruf Key No90?

Bloody Myford-- mutter, mutter!


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## goldstar31 (Jul 8, 2017)

A further few minutes has revealed that I have something called a'No2 Morse Taper Arbour Taper Tool' from Jabus Tools

This follows the general engineering principles described earlier. Except that the adjustment is pegged to give 1, 2 and 3 Morse tapers i.e. without using a setting bar.

In the post came my order for Myford bronze bushes------and wait for it, a unexpected cheque from the tax people which was enough to buy the proposed Metric Lathe.

I definitely will not be available for much tomorrow 

Regards- hiccup- burp

Norm


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## bazmak (Jul 19, 2017)

just a try out


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## bazmak (Jul 20, 2017)

Hi Norm glad you got the lathe.Now that Angie has solved our problem of posting photos so easily thru the forum without using a 3rd party host like photobucket,i can again start posting.If anybody out there needs photos reposting then let me know and ii will add to this thread.The small aluminium
QCTP i bought for the mini lathe works well so i have bought a 250-100 for the
larger lathe with one holder.Will fit it to the SC4 lathe and give it a try.Will then make a family of holders to work alongside my std 3 and 4 way tool posts
Will post with photos i hope Regards barry


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## goldstar31 (Jul 20, 2017)

Hi Baz

I'm sure that I am not alone in being pleased to see you back and that Angie seems to have also found a solution. Long may it last!

Actually the 'new' lathe has yet to arrive but the price is right and I'll have to pick your brain about additional chucks and 'this and that'
The price, regardless of anything, is trifling  and if it all goes pear shaped, I'll not worry

In addition, I'm sort of getting a 'new' workshop. I have a nice cleaning lady and a very 'with it' husband. The latter is going to strip my old and leaking wooden shed and build around the now rotten timber. I'll now get height and more width. 

I live- confession, confession in a very snobby area and people don't like people who have hobbies. 

Oddly, the news has just been published about the desirability of of exercise, hobbies and whatever to stem dementia which is the UK's largest killer. 


To add to things, I must now learn to take photos and - maybe publish.

Watch this space


Norm


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## Blogwitch (Jul 20, 2017)

Baz,

If you are going to be making your own holders for the 'Aloris' type QCTP, don't forget to make some only half height.

These can be used with say 1/8" to 1/4" tooling, even 3/8" at a push (I have the 200 sized QCTP so normally holds 1" tooling), and because of the lower strain on small sized tooling, it doesn't require the full height of dovetail to keep them rigid, and if the holder doesn't completely cover the piston part, they work just as well. Maybe you will require some slightly longer adjusting screws to get you down to centre. Normally you can get two holders out of the material of normal height ones, so saving a lot of work and material costs.

John


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## bazmak (Jul 20, 2017)

Thanks John, please keep us up on your health problems,which i am sorry to hear about.I will start a thread on the QCTP once i get it fitted.I bought one toolholder only so i can use it and get dims for making more.I may buy more
as they are $25 a pop but good quality.By the time i have bought steel and screws etc and machined everything it might be better to buy more basic ones and just make specials.Nice to see you are still keeping an eye onus and still posting.There are a no of friendly posters i class as favourites and you are one of them. Regards barry


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## Blogwitch (Jul 20, 2017)

Thanks Baz,

I don't want this little malady to come to the fore, I will just keep going until I can't do it any more.

It is a shame you don't live nearby, a couple of years ago I picked up a piece of bar about 4ft long that is perfect for making the smaller sized holders (or even the larger ones, but less of them), it was one of the jobs that were destined to be completed, and now is just sitting in my metal pile rusting away.

John


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## bazmak (Jul 21, 2017)

Making a test bar for the beNCH LATHE


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## Niels Abildgaard (Jul 21, 2017)

Hello Baz  and nice test bar.
Can You test concentricity between conical(MT3) and cylindrical sections?
It is also nice to see a tangential tool at  work.
How does it compare chatter-wise to the QCTP on the small lathe, working hard?


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## Cogsy (Jul 21, 2017)

I'm curious Baz - how did you make it accurate to +-10 microns? That seems extreme precision for an unground bar, or maybe I missed something?


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## bazmak (Jul 21, 2017)

I machined down the MT3 using the compound then blued and polished down
down to a good fit.With the bar bolted in to the lathe and with tailstock fitted
i took a few thou off in sc4 lathe to improve concentricity and nearer to size
I then transfered to the small lathe and checked.Not too bad.Then i took off another couple of thou checking size and parralelism. In this way i turned down the bar from 25.4mm to 25.1mm,continually moving the bar between lathes
and locking the MT3 in various positions.I then polished down with various
grades of paper to less than half a thou with the mike and a final finish checking with my digital mike which reads to 3 places . Got the full length to
+/- 0.010mm Near enough for me,but obviously defined by the lathe and the micrometer specs.Just an excercise really.I want it to check the alignment of the 25mm housing bores on the tailstock turret.Not tool room precision but
adequate for a home model engineer. Dont know how the ambient temperature will affect it but i probably wont be able to measure it either. Regards Barry


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## Niels Abildgaard (Jul 22, 2017)

bazmak said:


> I machined down the MT3 using the compound then blued and polished down
> Then i took off another couple of thou checking size and parralelism. In this way i turned down the bar from 25.4mm to 25.1mm,continually moving the bar between lathes and locking the MT3 in various positions.
> . Dont know how the ambient temperature will affect it but i probably wont be able to measure it either. Regards Barry



Thank You for answering. It sounds to me that Your MT3 lathe spindle holes are spot on .and ground after spindles were put in headstock.Quite swiss and very nice for a low cost ,mass produced hobby lathe.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 22, 2017)

Thanks to the stout assistance of two Madmodder members from County Durham, England, I now have a Sieg C4 lathe- on my bench.

However, it's a metric C4 with two DRO's. One lights up but the other doesn't. Somehow, I question that the batteries in it were correct.

There seems to be no information on this so can anyone help?

So Baz,  I sort of have a start. Needs a faceplate and a 4 jaw chuck and a good appraisal for goodies.

Cheers and Thanks

Norm


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## bazmak (Jul 22, 2017)

Give us a photo and full description.Is it an Sc4.8"x 20" Look up on ebay or google.Is the spindle 72mm dia.I will post photos of mine then we can compare and discuss


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## goldstar31 (Jul 22, 2017)

The clearest information is that it seems to be a direct copy of Frank Hoose's account for a 'SiegDRO' in 2003-ish.

Mine is a machine made in 2007.

Hoose refers to the similarity with the HF 6" digital caliper SKU47257

As far as I can see, this was powered with a SR44 and not what was in- when I managed with the greatest difficulty to extract.

According to the plate it is 450mm between centres

Really, I'm not unduly bothered about the rest of the machine but I'd like to crack the DRO repair or whatever.

Of course, there must be a helluva difference between a calliper and the DRO. Rambling further, there seems to be a much later mod somewhere of how to dispense with batteries and go onto a transformer.

Any clearer, please?

Norm


PS

Since a 'shelf rest' beloved of dentists, I think that there has been either corrosion- from old age and non use or evaporation of WD-40 but I seem to have a sort of 'lift off' and electrical contact.


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## Blogwitch (Jul 22, 2017)

Norm,

SR44 are the correct batteries for these types of scales.

If you are looking to run them from a transformer, then it is a little more involved than you think.

First off, you require the accessory plug, usually mounted on the outside of the case, unless you want to go digging around in the electronic side of the unit to find where to put the power to. The leads to connect to these four pin sockets are few and far between, Arc used to sell them a few years ago, but stopped. 
I had a transformer made by a friend of mine so that it could power not only the scale but also a remote display head.
Problems usually occur if you try to run the unit with a battery installed as well, the battery doesn't like power being fed to it and can explode, so that needs to have a cap across the battery contacts when the battery has been permanently removed, this is to keep things stable when you start the machine motor as the power feed to the unit cables pick up interference from the motor and it is a matter of trial and error to find the right one. 







This is the cap on my mill scale, which should have basically the same method of working as yours are. It only took me two attempts to find the right size to cancel out all absorbed 'jitters' from the machines motor.
I just can't remember the size of the caps, but if you do a search online for 'replacing battery with power supply' you should get a few hits to give you an idea of what to do. Some people even make dummy batteries with the cap on it, but I just soldered between the two terminals.


John


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## bazmak (Jul 22, 2017)

Please post the dim basics for the lathe.MAIN one being the spindle register dia
55,72,or 95mm are the 3 main ones.Then we can advise accessories
What is the lathe centre height (swing) and between ctres etc etc
Photos would be good


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## bazmak (Jul 22, 2017)

Niels,the diamond tool works well.Did get  a poor finish on the M/Taper
but that was down to the compound not the tool as i got the same with 
a no of tools.The length of the taper was just on the limit of compound travel
and i got chatter at the extremes. Will need to look at a lock for the compound
so i can increase tension when reqd to take out the shakes.It wasnt a problem
as i spent a lot of time blueing and polishing to a good fit.This gave me a an accurate seat in the 2 headstocks before i started with the 25 dia section
Again multiple setting,very fine cuts with the diamond tool and finally lots of polishing down.Marked out every 20mm and polished down to 600grit
Not tool room quality but a good enough reference for what i need.The headstock MT3 s were indeed very accurate and i can transfer the bar between lathes with no discernable difference.I want to use it to check the 6 no 25mm dia turret stations in the capstan attachement i made.Should also be of use for 
aligning the tailstocks


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## goldstar31 (Jul 23, 2017)

Initially, might I thank both John and Barry for their help.
John, I'm aware that situation on the mill drill but would mention that the SR44 does NOT fit. One axis is working with a much thinner battery whilst the other unit is JAMMED as Frank Hoose also discovered in his write up to which describes my lathe.

Barry, I have really only had a short space of time to 'roughly' get the feel of the lathe. I have made some remarkable discoveries in my quest to get things like a 4 jaw independent chuck, a faceplate and a fitting for my set of ER25 collets. There are a lot of conversions to do as my lathes were/are Myford and No2MT rather than MT3.

Of course, I am aware that there might be differences between the 2007 lathe which I have and what is currently advertised but not available. Aye there's the rub! Axminster Tools sells the SiegC4 and my lathe is one- but with the DRO's.

Currently, I have no 100% reliable way of comparison- until I have pulled my chuck off and mike'd the parts.

What I haven't said is that the cost of an almost identical lathe is a tad off £2000 whilst I paid a modest £350. Again, I know that I put a bit of rusty round bar into the 3 jaw and took one of my QCTP holders with any old bit hss lathe tooling, set it to rub( a la Sparey) and got a mirror finish.

So the lathe has done precious little. It had made a few parts whilst the previous guys big Harrison was 'tied up' So it has been nowhere.

The fall back position is if my spindle and the present ones are different, I order a current spindle.

Again, if the worst comes to the worst, I sleeve the 3MT spindle to 2MT and fit a Myford conversion which brings ALL my esisting Myford goodies into use or availability.

I Think!

Cheers

Norman


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## bazmak (Jul 23, 2017)

Norm what is the spindle register dia.What is o/dia of the spindle plate
what is the no,dia and pcd of the 6?? fixing holes


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## goldstar31 (Jul 23, 2017)

Barry
              It is now 7AM in 'Geordie' Time and the coffee is filtering through.  I've just removed the top slide in preparation to do just that.
The discovery is that the tee nuts washers are still stuck with the original paint. The thing is nigh enough new

Might I reply about the chuck mounting - when I have woken up

But Thanks

Norm


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## bazmak (Jul 23, 2017)

Just put up post for the Sc4 with my new Aloris QCTP.I have added a few photos of my Sc4 and spindle mount which fortunately is the same as my new mini lathe.If you want any more photos please ask and i can now post direct as they are all in the computer  and its much easier now thru HMEM  than
photobucket. They are still sending me emails asking me to upgrade my subscription. ##### them i can buy a lot of goodies with $400


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## goldstar31 (Jul 23, 2017)

Barry

As far as I can see, the rough figures are

Bore 25MM

Register 73MM

Outside 100MM

The chuck is fixed by 3 bolts- and bloody hard to get at ones.

Everything is new, covered in oil, swarf and SOLID.

I have my Radar Fitters kit out which is a hammer and a c******!

Does this help, pl

N


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## bazmak (Jul 23, 2017)

I hope for your sake that the spindle register is 72mm
Should be 6 or 7 holes for m8 bolts.Should be a straight fit 
for a chinese 4" chucks etc.4 fixings for 3 jaw and 4 fixings
for 4 jaw.The world is your oyster
You can make a screw on adaptor plate to fit the Myford and use the chinese gear
and/or make an sdaptor plate with a Myford nose to fit the C4. Bingo
As i said previosly the regiter is 55mm dia for 80mm chucks on Sc2
and 72mm dia for 100mm chucks. 95mm dia for 125mm chucks etc
You can buy or make a chuck to fit the lathe and an ER32 collet set
Start to lve a little Norm.Keep this thread going Regards barry


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## goldstar31 (Jul 23, 2017)

Thanks Barry
I guess that my measurement was a mm out and you are correct at 72mm
Again, there is 6 sets of bolt holes in the spindle flange so an alternative to buying Sieg fittings will not be needed- 
I await for when when spares are traced! Humm.

This information which you have supplied is 'Gold Dust' and saves so much rattling of ancient skulls.

At 87, a widower now with an estate still finalise( after 2 years) I am a COPD suffrer and this little diversion is one to keep warm in the English winter.

So from your information, all that remains is strip the lathe down, reset it to my needs and somewhere in the melee, sort out the DRO's.

Obviously, I'll keep people posted.

Cheers

Norm

Post Script

I have a faceplate and the price of a new DRO at $220.

Stand back in amazement
N

Oh and I have a new DE Grinder. Hey big spender


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## Cogsy (Jul 25, 2017)

bazmak said:


> I then polished down with various
> grades of paper to less than half a thou with the mike and a final finish checking with my digital mike which reads to 3 places . Got the full length to
> +/- 0.010mm


 
Thanks for that Baz. Any chance you took some pics along the way? I can hold micron accuracy over a small length but not over such a long bar. I'm interested in learning how it's done.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 25, 2017)

A little progress report!  The DRO on the saddle feed screw has not a SR44 battery.  Attempting to remove the old battery involved me removing jammed paper with my late wife's surgical dental and orthodontic tools.  Fortunately, Axminster Tools who marketed the lathe has a spare unit ready to fit on and will supply batteries. Not bad at £45. It is simply waiting for the post which should bring a 4 jaw independent, steadies and a collet holder for my ER25 collets.  I now have the faceplate.

Time to look at the Myfords again. 

I discovered that I have three sets( not just holders) for the QCTP. 

The 6" DE grinder looks promising to take the Eccentric Acute Tool and Cutter Grinder.

Things are improving

Regards

Norm


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## bazmak (Jul 25, 2017)

Cogsy,i will play about further to see if i can get more accuracy with
photos.As i understand it,there are 25 microns to 1 thou,therefore 1 tenth
thou is about  2.5 microns.I got the bar to +/- 10 microns or just less than half a thou,not difficult,but i will see how the bar measures now after a few nights in the shed.
Norm i will open a new thread just for you and your new lathe.Any questions can be posted and answered with photos etc and also anyone can chip in with tips etc and lots of photos


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## bazmak (Jul 26, 2017)

Just for you



[/ATTACH]


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## Cogsy (Jul 26, 2017)

Thanks for the explanation Baz.


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## bazmak (Aug 13, 2017)

I have not been in the shed for a while as the weather has been bad
and i dont have any current projects on the go.However today is nice and sunny
so i decided to do a little gardening and was drawn to tidying up the shed
For my recent 70th birthday my son in the UK sent me a hamper.Worldwide beers,nuts etc all hosed in a nice wooden tray.As i worked thru the beers
i wondered what i could use the tray for,it has a nice brass engraved plaque
on the front.I put it in the shed and today idally browsing/musing etc
i found the tray was a perfect fit in a recess between the mini lathe and mill
When i say a perfect 2mm smaller on the width,3mm high and perfect on the depth.All it needed was a lid and made an ideal collet drawer with bits of scrap
Fitted a tray and a couple of knurled brass thumbscrews from my stock
All in all a pleasa
nt couple of hours


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## goldstar31 (Aug 13, 2017)

Happy belated birthday greetings--- young man.

Weather in the Newcastle -- upon Tyne variety is dis-buggerable and piss- instantly raining.

Little wonder that I have moved a lathe indoors where the central heating is  chugging on. It's supposed to be summer.

Best Wishes

N


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## bazmak (Aug 13, 2017)

Hows the lathe going Norm ? Havent heard much on your thread


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## goldstar31 (Aug 13, 2017)

I'm waiting for my shed to be erected-- or is it an ark?

However, the Sieg has got a new 4 jaw independent chuck, a faceplate, a ER25 collet holder and the start( eventually) of a fitment to take Myford stuff as well.

Again, I've got the saddle DRO repaired and working.

Obviously the tee bolts and whatever for the subtable are 'on hold' until the shed is erected and re-furbished.

On another front, there is 'balls up' with the tax people and I have still to finalise my wife's estate despite it being almost 2 years now.

I'm not miserable or whatever, merely trying to see an end to a few things

Lots to come

Patience fleas, the night is long

from Cervantes in Don Quixote by Sancho Panza


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## bazmak (Aug 23, 2017)

I dont have a new project on the go yet so thought i would play about
with the MT3 test bar i made for the specific job i had in mind when
i made it,that is to improve the capstan alignment on the mini lathe
I had purchased a couple of cheap chinese dial indicators .I made a dedicated mounting brkt to suit the mini lathe QCTP. Fitted and checked the test bar
in the MT3 headstock in a no of positions.Over the full length the bar was
only 1 thou eccentric and showed the lathe carriage and headstock to be
miscaligned by 6 thou front to back and 3 thou vertical.As long i know i can live with it for now.To improve will mean shimming the headstock etc
Then used the test bar to align the 6 stations on the turret.Not perfect but 
getting nearer.May now try to fit the boring head in the lathe and take a small
skim of the bores.Which will then mean refitting the station toolholders


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## bazmak (Aug 24, 2017)

Whilst pondering my next project and doing a tidy of the shed and 
making a few bits and pieces to store/rearrange often used items,
whilst i still had the test bar setup i decided to check both lathes
I setup 2 dial indicators to front and top and got the following results
over the 10" length of the test bar
Sc3 concentric to ,half thou at HS and ,2 thou at TS ends
Carriage was parallel HS +/-3thou both top and bottom
Sc4 concentric to half thou at HS but 3 thou at TS (? unsupported but improved to 1 thou with tailstock centre engaged
Carriage was parallel to 1 thou both top and bottom
I dont plan to do anymore at the moment as long as i know.I dont think its too
bad for cheap chinese bench lathes


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## bazmak (Aug 27, 2017)

As most people know its difficult to adjust the dovetail gibbs on the mini lathe
Impossible with as bought units but there are many mods to improve this
However like many others i am never content with what i have and am
continually chasing the true.I was still not happy with my slides so 
while i had the stripped down decided to further improve.Started with the compound made a new brass bibb strip and added 2 more adjusting screws
Photos tell the story,the difference is amazing.Will see how long it lasts
Will see what i can do next with the cross slide and carriage


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## goldstar31 (Aug 27, 2017)

I suppose that the next 'improvement is on the points of the gib screws and the others are a lock and a pin to stop the gib wishing to attempt to leave the set up.

I have a vertical slide( ? ex-Perfecto) with those- and a Myford dial in that strange Chinese metal.

I was thinking that instead of the difficulty in construction for people like JCSteam, the existing gib can be asses to with glued shims. A bit like the Myford laminated ones!

Regards

Norm


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## bazmak (Aug 27, 2017)

Hi Norm, what i do now as std is to mill a slot/flat to engage with the screws
for location/retension and so that the screws push square against a flat face
However from a previose mod i found that making the gib full size with 
only a few thou adjustment it is not necessary.I just spotted thro the tapped holes a couple of mm deep intp the brass gib,and chamfered the screw points
at 30o to match a std drill.This locates and retains the gib strip.I have found
that the secret lies with keeping the gibb as large as poss so no rocking etc
After all the gibb only needs to move/adjust a few thou


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## goldstar31 (Aug 27, 2017)

Of course, your suggestion is an excellent one.

Time for a few, not too silly remarks now.
In less effluent days, my lathe was worn on the first shear in the usual place i.e. 6" from the front. Where lots of faceplate and chuck work takes place. I used on of these plastic metal based fillers to restore/build up  the wear. The stuff, being soft-ish was easily worked. The other bit was the inner narrow guide thing beloved of early Myford7's. Like many of us, I utilised the unworn Number4 shear.

Just a few more tips to your excellent suggestions!

Norm


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## JCSteam (Aug 27, 2017)

Norm that took me a couple of attempts at reading but are you saying a new on could be glued on to the existing one and can someone show me the setup for machining the gibs please. A straight piece of brass won't work as it's the wrong shape. I can carry on regardless at the no on my lathe but it's good for future reference.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 27, 2017)

I raised two issues.

The first was the use of a plastic filler to take up wear

The second was to fill  the air gap which Baz corrected with a larger brass gib.
My suggestion was to glue either a strip or strips of metal to the back of the present gib to close the gap.
Whatever it is, gibs are miserable things and can be filed or milled or ground 
The hard job is holding the damned things whilst it all goes on

Does this help?

Norm


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## bazmak (Aug 27, 2017)

Hi Norm,i used 6.3mm brass and machined in the angle vice.Tricky but
duable as you say difficult to hold but i managed.On a previous thread
i posted how to make new gibbs without a mill but using the linisher
At a pinch it can be done the old fashion way with a file. I thought of shimming out the existing gibb as per your thoughts but it was just as easy to make
a new one. With a mill and out of brass which i feel gives a better slide
softer matl but these bench lathes dont take much wear.At the end of the day
after many trial and errors simply making the gibb a good fit works the best
The example photo of the existing gibb highlighted the point.The large gap just
allowed the gibb to twist so it only seated on a corner hence you could not
get consistant adjustment


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## JCSteam (Aug 27, 2017)

Thank you Baz and Norman, I'll get my thinking cap on to think of a way to clamp a brass strip without an angle vice


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## goldstar31 (Aug 27, 2017)

I am building a shed- or more honestly, helping.
In the set up, I'm using a cheap  saw bench which will tilt. This will make a simple jig to hold a brass sheet for filing at the right angle. Possibly stick it down with hot glue and melt it out and do the other edge.

I use hot glue quite a lot and traditionally soft solder steel sheets for machining . Not often 'in the book' but it works
Cheers

N


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## JCSteam (Aug 27, 2017)

Would a tile cutter work on the same principle? There's a diamond cutting blade in there at the moment. A piece of square steel clamped down. Parralel to the blade. And a piece of brass glued to another square bar stock. Set up with blade vertical. Then lean the blade over to the correct angle and cut both brass and steel. Turn around and do same. Then use a sharpening block to smooth surface. Followed by polishing paste on some fine wet dry paper.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 27, 2017)

JCSteam said:


> Would a tile cutter work on the same principle? There's a diamond cutting blade in there at the moment. A piece of square steel clamped down. Parralel to the blade. And a piece of brass glued to another square bar stock. Set up with blade vertical. Then lean the blade over to the correct angle and cut both brass and steel. Turn around and do same. Then use a sharpening block to smooth surface. Followed by polishing paste on some fine wet dry paper.


 
 I haven't quite got your idea but if the table tilts the 30/60 or 45 degree. you can possibly cut a kerf using a guide. 

Again, I suspect( but not sure) a diamond wheel on a tile cutter might make rather useful tool and cutter grinder for next to nothing purchase.

Me, I 'd play with something like that if it tilts-----even to using a disc with emery paper  stuck on it. 

Not quite according to the book, but I fail to see what is wrong

OK

Norm


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## JCSteam (Aug 27, 2017)

Hi Norm, the bar stock can act as a slider one clamped to the bed of the cutter, the other for sliding against it. The brass gib piece can be glued to the top of the slider bar and passed through easily, (theory sounds good anyhow) On the next cut reverse the brass which can now be held against the first cut on the slider, below where the brass was glued. So long as the blade is not adjusted a parralel gib slide is now made and just requires honing in. If you still not with me, im not good at explaining myself, maybe a diagram may help explain better.

You are right though, sharpening drill bits would be easier if nothing else.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 27, 2017)

JCSteam said:


> Hi Norm, the bar stock can act as a slider one clamped to the bed of the cutter, the other for sliding against it. The brass gib piece can be glued to the top of the slider bar and passed through easily, (theory sounds good anyhow) On the next cut reverse the brass which can now be held against the first cut on the slider, below where the brass was glued. So long as the blade is not adjusted a parralel gib slide is now made and just requires honing in. If you still not with me, im not good at explaining myself, maybe a diagram may help explain better.
> 
> You are right though, sharpening drill bits would be easier if nothing else.


 
 If the glue doesn't hold, then soft solder and when finished sweat it off.

None of this lead free solder- I add!

Cheers

N


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## bazmak (Aug 27, 2017)

I have resurrected a couple of photos where i made a new brass gib without a mill using a cheap belt/disc linisher.Very cheap from Aldi etc and can be
very useful to cut doewn on filing etc.Did many mods and its now worth its weight in gold.An essential piece of kit to a newbie.If anyone is interested
i can ressurect the thread


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## bazmak (Aug 28, 2017)

Well i polished up the gibs and set the compound.The cross slide had a well fitting gib and i had already fitted additional screws so it was just a case  of 
resetting etc.The carriage was the big problem so had to take a few thou off
the front gib plate and reset.Everything is now A OK .I wonder how long it will last.One thing did surface.The front carriage gib plate can only be adjusted
when the whole assy is diassembled however on the first photo i have highlighted with a sharpie that on this model the 2 end studs could be drilled
thru the carriage with fixings on the top,making it much easier to set and 
perhaps be used as a carriage lock.If i lose the settings and have to strip down
again i might try it.Also made a quick change alum chip tray.My dormant
sheetmetal work skills came to the fore.Brought back memories of over
50 years ago at trade school when the exams were to develope and make
things like water jugs and milk churns from tin plate. Wish i could go back


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## JCSteam (Aug 28, 2017)

I like the chip tray idea

Also if you could find the thread on the sander that would be helpful to me I haven't fully got to grips with the site just yet


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## goldstar31 (Aug 28, 2017)

The 'English' version of the belt sander becomes available from time to time at either Lidl or Aldi and probably cheaper than generally available from other suppliers.

In all.it is not too bad although a bit flimsy on the rests.  I usually buy the various grades of grit belts  and put them into stock. I have one and simply have learned to live with its foibles.

With a bit of 'judicious jiggling', I'm assured that grinding hss tooling is possible.

I'm sort of happy to use one often because I forget where I put my files!  The shame of it all!!!!

Norm


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## bazmak (Aug 28, 2017)

The Clark branded version is sold by machinery mart in the UK
I bought one here in OZ for $70 for woodworking,for quickly and
accurately squaring end grain on timber for dowelling joints
The sander is very cheaply made in some areas like the mini lathe
but has the potential to mod to a high standard as the 7x lathe
The driven roller is on plastic bushes and quickly wear out,my first mod
was to make brass bushes,but lubrication is difficult so fitted cheap skate bearings.Also made a dedicated stand and increased the 6" disc size to 9"
to accept velcro fitting discs. The things i can do with it in metal and wood
you would not believe.Worth its weight in gold.If it blew up tomorrow i 
would go out and buy another even at twice the price.Sharpening tooling etc
And heavy filing is a thing of the past.I will resurect the thread and post more 
photos


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## bazmak (Nov 14, 2017)

Have reposted this for builder 01 and anyone else who may find it interesting


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## bazmak (Apr 9, 2018)

For Jc steam as per PM request


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## JCSteam (Apr 10, 2018)

Thank you Baz, a link to the thread would have sufficed, but thank you, time to read up on these.


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