# Wallaby



## metalmad

Hi guys.
Its about time I started a new project 
This time I will have a go at the "Wallaby".
It is a 4 stroke twin and the Block and Sump are from Castings
The Castings are made by Bez and really look great !
Today I put in a good day on the CYL Head from Bar stock and thought it worth while starting with a pic of Bez pouring the Block. 
You will find his post of the casting process here
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=14622.0


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## metalmad

Today I did some Machining of the Exhaust flanges and started the intake. I used a smaller drill at an angle, to make contact with the valve hole and will use a die grinder later to curve the ports a bit.
I hope to drill the Spark plug holes tomorrow and maybe start the water holes.
I'm thinking of changing the plug from 3/8 to M10 for a CM6 and don't intend to go overboard trying to replicate the cored shapes of the water ports.


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## ShedBoy

I have been looking forward to this build. Great work so far as usual 
Brock


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## Lesmo

That's not a bad days work, would probably have taken me three

Les


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## steamer

Hey Metalmad,

Cool!  :bow:
Did you do the curved siamesed intakes or did you simplify to straight ones?

I dreamed up a way to machine the curved ones as opposed to fileing them like Edgar did....but it will still be a lot of work with a special ball end cutter.

Dave


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## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

Nice work,

 you amazed me how quick you got that head machined. :bow:

Bez


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## metalmad

Thanks Brock, Ive been looking forward to it too, but its a little daunting as its my first wet sump engine, not to mention watercooled Multy.
Hi Les I'm fairly happy with it so far but there is such a long way to go.
Dave, So far I have only drilled the ports undersize and will just use a die grinder to get the curves later, unless u can come up with something easier?
Once the spark plug holes are done, I may need to smooth out the combustion chambers anyway.
Hi Bez, I recon I'm getting Faster :big:


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## metalmad

Hi Guys
My last post must have jinxed me :big:
Ive been arse up under my Stump grinder ever since, It sheared of a couple of bolts on the hydraulic drive engine and snapped the Chane as well.
I had a nightmere getting the sprocket off and just could not move an adjuster nut
( u know how it is, I guess )
Anyway I got her running again today, so I can do Fridays work tomorrow :big:
I roughed out the Wallaby cyl head cover plate too.
Pete


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## ShedBoy

Work a nessecary evil  I fly home from work tomorrow 
I reckon I might do somting in d shed.

Brock


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## steamer

Hey Metalmad,

I have a sketch of the tool somewhere....it is a modified ball 3/8 endmill with the shank reduced to 7/32 IIRC,

My plan was to drill in on the head straight but undersize, then mount the head on a fixture mounted to a rotary table, and using the modified endmill, machine the curved passages for the intake......

Haven't tried it yet.....but I think I will eventually.....

Dave


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## metalmad

Hi Brock
Fly in, Fly out would be hard mate
Dave, I think I have a ball shaped rotary burr somewhere with a 1/8 shank,
Im planing to use that in my little air grinder.
From your reading of the plans, do u think the cyl head cover plate is installed with the recessed area to the top?
and if so, is it just cosmetic?
Maybe I might make a tappet cover with an oil feed to the rockers or something to make use of the recess!
Pete


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## steamer

Looking at the GA shown in the first installment, it shows a flat top with no recess but the section on the head does show it. I too was leaning on making a rocker cover for this engine...The only glitch is the water outlet flange smack dab in the middle of the head. Maybe I'd go for two rocker covers and let the outlet be where it is.

Other than reducing the amount of area to make flat, I don't see why it couldn't be all flat.

I planned on making one piece valve cage/guides, but that would require machining the bores for the cages with the cyl head cover on so that they match up. You could pick up on you holes now though I suppose.

Dave


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## steamer

And to your original question...I think the spot faces face up in the original design so as to provide a place for the sealing coat of paint he mentions somewhere in the article. ;D

Dave


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## steamer

Oh and as far as the stump grinder is concerned...my condolences!

Next time you have her apart, put some "never seeze" on the rusted up bolts....They'll come apart easy next time...

http://www.neverseezproducts.com/

Dave


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## metalmad

That one piece Valve cage is sounding like a good idea Dave!
I'm having problems reading the dims on my photocopy's anyway :big:
but the more I think about the cover, the worse it seems :
half the fun of watching a 4 stroke run is seeing the rocker gear.
Pete


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## Blogwitch

If I could just give you a little advice.

Being from the land of where E.T.Westbury came from and having made a couple of his engines.

Take nothing on the plans as gospel.

Almost no rectifications to the plans have taken place ever since they were initially issued.

I have never built the Wallaby, but I made the whippet a few years ago, just after making a Cygnet Royal, and fairly recently researched the re-released Seal, and they still had the original errors on the plans. I am not talking minor ones either, but ones that could result in scrapping the main crankcases or heads if machined to some of the shown dimensions.

In all honesty, once the engines are built correctly, they run well, but make sure you do double check for fits and positions of/to other components before machining too much off.

What might pay dividends is to do a search for engine plan faults on the net. I found out a lot about the seal, and it put me off making it.


John


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## steamer

Thanks Bogs!  Will do!


Dave


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## metalmad

Sounds like a very good idea Bogs! I already have found two bad plan errors or plan faults  that would scrap the case. The lifter pillars are down as 1-5/8 when 1-7/8 or even 1-15/16 is more like it! and the center head bolt holes are not 1-1/8 from the edge but are in fact 7/8 apart. The water exit port shows 5/8 on the plan and I believe this should be 3/8. On the dipstick the plans for the domed Cowl call for 11/32 (.34375) This is a obvious error, I made mine .675 OD which as the drawing shows is just under the .75 OD of the lower housing.
Another thing I changed which may be more to my lay out then a plan error but I had to leave my Cam bearings at .70 rather then the stated .75
 I had not thought of doing a Engine Plan faults for Wallaby by E.T Westbury search, but I will do so as soon as I post this. Thanks again. Pete


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## steamer

I went through the prints at one point and found a bunch of stuff....Once I find them I'll share.

Dave


Here's what I had in mind for the head/block.


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## metalmad

Ummmmmmmm
I was not gunna make the pistons green, but if your really sure thats right?  :big: :big:
Did not do much today and will think about sourcing some bronze tomorrow for the valve guides.
Pete


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## arnoldb

Off to another flying start then Pete - Looks great so far mate :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## metalmad

Thanks Arnold
There's a long long road ahead, but if I dont think about it too much, it does not seem so bad :big:
Started on the Rocker stand today


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## metalmad

Did a little on the Rockers today and I guess by now most of u will have guessed Ive got no idea at all what im doing :big:
I'm gunna have to just blunder on through and hope for the best !
I am making the rockers out of 5/16 key steel, The rockers have offset boss's.
 Two lefts and two rights, but I only have a vague idea where they go so far :big:


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## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

looking good.

 Thm:

Bez


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## steamer

Yes ...Looking Good Pete!

Keep it coming!

Dave


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## metalmad

Hi Bez 
R u back yet mate?
Hi Dave 
I think I started to find my footing today and got a little more done on the Rockers


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## steamer

Alright!  That's looking like the drawing!

Keep it coming Mad.... :bow:

Dave


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## metalmad

Thanks Dave
With any luck ill get em finished tomorrow.
The only hex I have at the moment is steel, so I'm tossing up doing the adjusters in that with the 1/8 welding rod for the shafts.
its softer then steel but seems harder then bronze.


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## metalmad

OK I'm nearly finished the Rockers, just the pushrod holes and some cosmetic stuff to do now 
but guys, every hole I drilled today went off center!
 One of those days I guess :big:
I'm thinking of hardening them, which would give me the chance to use what my mate Bez made for me.
Its a diesel burner for a casting furnice 
its good to have mates ;D


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## Dave G

Hi Pete, Looks like you are making good progress on your Wallaby. I can tell you're having alot of fun with your machines. Dave


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## metalmad

Ahh 
Another One
Mate that is :big:
Thanks Dave, When will we see your next Build buddy?


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## metalmad

I bought two 10 mm Sparkplugs today and am having second thoughts, cos they are huge, compared to the plugs ive made for my other engines.
Pity, I drilled and threaded the holes :-\
I may have stuffed up here 
The plans call for 3/8, so I hope the 10 mm ones dont look out of place!


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## Dave G

Hi Pete, you could make an insert to reduce the thread to 1/4-32 out of steel. This would allow your threads to live longer. I am always afraid of stripping the threads in aluminum although most of my engines are made the same as yours. 
 My wife has expressed interest in machining lately so we started an Elmers Scotty for her. She is doing quite well and is about half way finished with it. We are both enjoying the experience and it is nice to have someone to share the shop with. I will have her post the photos when finished. We are making 2 so she can see me make the components on the first one and then she makes hers. She will probably give one away and keep the other. 
 As for getting on with another build from me, I have way to much work around the house to get done yet. I try to get something done during the day while my wifes at work then when she gets home we go to the shop to work on her project. I'm going to have her watch me when I get going on my next build but we need to finish hers first. I like having someone show an interest in what I do in the shop and she helps me clean too. It won't be long now but it seems like when I get one project finished another pops up. When the weather turns bad I will be back in the shop full time. Dave


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## bezalel2000

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Pity, I drilled and threaded the holes :-\



Hi Pete 

I notice the bought plugs have a huge hex on them, you could still make some nice small plugs with a 10mm thread.

After all your getting pretty good at making spark plugs  :bow:

Bez


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## metalmad

Hope u know what u are doing Dave.
I don't let my Wife anywhere near my Shed :big: :big:
Thanks Bez
I may end up making smaller plugs guys, but I recon its a little early to worry about which sparkplug its gunna use.
I may find that once the exhaust pipe goes over the top of the plugs, these look OK.
Anyway today I drilled out and started milling the water jackets.
As I mentioned before they will never be seen again so I'm just going functional!
Pete


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## Blogwitch

Pete,

As Bez suggests, those plugs could be shaved down a great deal.

Just make yourself an arbor to go in the lathe with a 10mm thread up the spout and you could remove all that metal down to below the hex, leaving just a plain portion.

You only need a couple of small flats for a spanner to tighten on and the rest you could decorate as you wish.

I doubt very much whether you could weaken it enough for an engine of this size to cause you pressure problems, and it would look a lot better scale.


John


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## metalmad

Hi Bogs
I had a go at turning down one of the plugs today and it looked OK so, Me being Me I could not help but take even more off the next one !
Pity there is no metal in those huge plugs.
I made a Valve guide to console myself :big:


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## metalmad

It was not until I made a valve guide that I realised the recess in the top plate is to connect water jackets and for the guide boss to sit in.
I think I'm right anyway :big:


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## Blogwitch

Oh! dear, sorry about suggesting that. I thought that maybe take the hex off, and put a couple of small flats to replace it.

But just think about what you have done, you have shown everyone that you shouldn't take too much metal off, and we all now know what a plug looks like in the inside. So two lessons in one.

It is a shame you don't live a little closer, I could let you have a replacement half dozen new 10mm plugs as I have just sold my Goldwing, and they are left over in my back storage room.

John


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## metalmad

No worries Bogs 
The whole thing was too big to look right anyway
I may go down the Bike shop and check what the honda plugs look like, but I think ill be happer with my own homemade plugs.
At this stage in the build its not really an issue anyway 
Pete


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## metalmad

Made a valve today and did a temporary install to help in choosing the springs.
The valve seats are not done, so it will sit a little higher and of course the rockers need to be neatened up down the track a bit.
I think id like to go just a little larger then the one shown.


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## steamer

That looking Great Pete!

Dave


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## metalmad

Thanks Dave
Its a start anyway

I picked up some springs that I think will be ok today and will finish off the valves tomorrow arvo I hope.


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## steamer

303 stainless for the Valves?

Dave


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## T70MkIII

Nice start, Pete. You're a fast worker!


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## metalmad

Dave, all the valves Ive made have been from dyna bolts, which are pretty tough stuff and so far i have not had any failures, but if that changes then i guess i will have to think about another material.
Hi Richard, I don't do that much or even that fast really, but just a little bit every day soon builds up :big:


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## metalmad

I decided to start the carby today from a bit of scrap.
have not decided on its outer final form yet so im just gunna blunder along 
I think it may turn out downdraft or maybe not :big:
The first bit will be the air cleaner and the carb body will be made from the rest of the bar.
The 1 inch recess in the air cleaner in the first pic is for the choke plate and its beside the head for reference in the second.
The air clearner will also have a slot for the choke handle.


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## steamer

"...Dave, all the valves Ive made have been from dyna bolts, which are pretty tough stuff and so far i have not had any failures, but if that changes then i guess i will have to think about another material..."


Ohhh OK.... a concrete anchor...got it.  

Dave


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## metalmad

OK a little more on the carby
I parted off in the lathe after making some markers with the part off tool and moved over to the mill .
I then milled a flat on both sides leaving the air cleaner flange full size, after that i drilled and milled out the throttle body and two holes for the end cap.
I'm thinking about another bit of scrap alli for the throttle itself but i'm a bit worried about the strength of the throttle shaft.
pete


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## tel

Thm: You keep going at this pace you'll have it wallabing along in no time!


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## metalmad

U just watch me hit a brick wall when it comes time to do the cam and gears.
there's still time, I might make a Roo out of this build yet :big:


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## steamer

metalmad  said:
			
		

> U just watch me hit a brick wall when it comes time to do the cam and gears.
> there's still time, I might make a Roo out of this build yet :big:




No ya won't, we'll talk you through it....no worries mate.....

Tel.....exactly was does the act of "Wallabing" look like?......... ;D

Dave


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## metalmad

Lucky I can put em off for months yet :big:
and Wallabing has gotta be better then Rooing a Wallaby


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## metalmad

I had a bit of stainless that was a pretty good fit for my throttle and i recon it will be plenty strong too.
I want to try and drill a 1/4 hole thru both the alli body and stainless throttle so that will be interesting. Im going to put a paper spacer in to lock the throttle in place first.
Im a bit worried the drill will wander once it hits the stainless.
pete


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## tel

> Tel.....exactly was does the act of "Wallabing" look like?......... Grin



For that you would need to observe the wily wallaby (from a safe distance) - it's what they do!


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## metalmad

Dang it 
 u gotta be carefull with the Wallaby's, their a dangerous lot!


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## steamer

tel  said:
			
		

> For that you would need to observe the wily wallaby (from a safe distance) - it's what they do!



This wouldn't be an alchohol related activity would it? ;D

Dave


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## tel

steamer  said:
			
		

> This wouldn't be an alchohol related activity would it? ;D
> 
> Dave



Only if you follow the Rah Rah's! Rof}


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## metalmad

Hit a bit of a snag today
I drilled the venturi hole in stages and used a 1/2 centre drill to get a 60 degree mouth for the venturi.
I had hoped that by using a smaller drill size first the 1/4 drill would not course burrs when it went from one metal to the other.
unfortunatly the throttle is now stuck fast and even if I drill the back and press it out it will damage the body!


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## steamer

Hey Pete,

Can you set it back up in a 4 jaw and take a light cut with a boring bar? that may clear the burr out.
Generally, a drill doesn't make round holes,,,ironically enough. If it needs to be round, use a boring bar.

Hey Pete and Tel...
Oh Man...it's clear I'll need a decoder ring complete with a bottle opener attachment if I come visit! ;D

Dave


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## tel

> Hey Pete and Tel...
> Oh Man...it's clear I'll need a decoder ring complete with a bottle opener attachment if I come visit! Grin



A 'cloak of invisibility' might help as well - especially if the Wallabies are on the rampage at the time! :hDe:


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## steamer

What do ya think Pete?....can you set if back up?

Dave


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## metalmad

I just ran a adjustable reamer thru it with no change, so I guess Ive got nothing to lose in putting it back in the 4 jaw and making some kind of mini boring bar or something, but if the hole gets too big, its still a throw away.
Pete


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## tel

... unless you take it out oversize and press a sleeve in


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## metalmad

Hi Tel
I went back out to the shed before and after using the reamer I gave it a spray with CRC and was able to pop it out by leavering it with a alan key ;D
looks like I am back on track and tomorrow will slot the throttle for the spray bar.
pete


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## tel

Onya Pete! Keep 'er rollin' Thm:


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## steamer

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Hi Tel
> I went back out to the shed before and after using the reamer I gave it a spray with CRC and was able to pop it out by leavering it with a alan key ;D
> looks like I am back on track and tomorrow will slot the throttle for the spray bar.
> pete




What ever it takes!

 ;D
Yes! Goon Onya Pete!

Dave


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## metalmad

Today. I started on an itsy bitsy set of sauce pans  :big:


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## steamer

What's for dinner Pete?..... ;D

Is that the choke plate...?

Dave


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## tel

Wallaby steaks!


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## metalmad

Real good eating them Wallabys :big:
yep the choke works by turning the handle to cover more of the air inlets which will be under the air cleaner and thru the mounting flange.
Once Ive got the Carby done internally, ill put it in the 4 jaw and turn a rough hourglass shape and then part off the chucking piece.


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## steamer

Ahh OK your building the original carb.  It's similar to the road roller carb
I'll be watching this.....ETW really liked that carb as apposed to the KIWI carb.

Dave



Salt and Pepper on those Tel..? Or do you have your own Aussie magic for those.


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## tel

> Salt and Pepper on those Tel..? Or do you have your own Aussie magic for those.



If I told you the secret Oz condiments my life wouldn't be worth a zack!


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## metalmad

Be careful Tel loose lips sinks ships! 
The plans for the Carby turned up in my internet search for plan errors that Bogs suggested as well as plans for a nice little 4 stroke single called the "Kinglet" that I may have a crack at once I have my foundry up and running.
I am also tempted in doing more of ETW's engines like the Seal or Sea lion which is what the Carby is loosly based on, I do not know what carby the Wallaby came out with as the plans I have, don't have one and so I decided to modify the sea lion carby to fit.
I decided not to bother with castings for the Carby and am attempting a working approximation from bar stock :big:
Pete


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## metalmad

Its blowing a gale here, but even so I did a little.
I glued the choke in the cap with Hotmelt and drilled the holes and milled the slots to allow the choke to be turned.
Im also rethinking parting off now, I may drill at an angle to get my downdraft position and then plug the bottom.


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## steamer

That's looking Great Pete!

Dave


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## metalmad

Thanks Dave, the support is really appreciated!!
A little more on the carby, but have not been able to get any brass hex for the spray bar, so far and its slowing me down a bit.
BTW this choke system is really clever and I'm betting will work well.
When you turn the handle it blocks off 3 of the intake holes.


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## tel

Wallabies 32-6


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## metalmad

wallabies Rule :big:
http://www.sportsaustralia.com/articles/news.php?id=9918


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## steamer

That looks like the same carby as on the road roller......does it have a compensating piston inside?

It looks "right" for the engine...I never liked the looks of the Kiwi carb on the Wallaby.

Keep at it Pete!

Dave


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## metalmad

The carby has a spraybar going thru the slotted throttle and I will turn down the outside to a hourglass shape once its done internally.
I'm thinking now of using the chucking piece as a manifold adaptor so the standard 1831 inlet will bolt right up.
I may do this by milling a flat and drilling a 3/8 hole at 45 degrees to join up with the venturi and then blocking off the bottom hole and milling 45 degrees off the outside of the chucking piece for effect.
Pete
PS
 I'm not sure what a compensating piston is or does Dave, but I don't think Ive got one :big:


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## ozzie46

Very nice build. Will be following along. 

 Are you going to power anything with it?

 Ron


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## metalmad

Hi Ron
Once its running Ok, I will probably just start another build.
I am planing on the Mastiff next, it is a boxer 4 cyl.
If this is successful there is no reason why I can not build a V8 or even a round motor.
Pete


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## ozzie46

I have been eyeing the Mastiff plans also. So many plans so little time. :big: :big:

 Ron


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## metalmad

I really enjoy it as the engine starts to take shape as i often have no idea how something works or even how to make it, till I do it :big:
Pete


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## metalmad

I have no power to half my house and my shed at the moment, so I can not post progress, but I thought id share a lovely photo :big:
Pete


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## metalmad

I may be just getting old, but I find something about That new Casting very Tit_alating :big:
Yesterday I had an special Armoured heavy duty cable layed underground to my shed.
Power is at last restored and in order to regain some momemtom with the Build, I started with the block this afternoon ;D
The Head and carby are not finished as yet, but Bez needs feedback on the Castings.
I now have The block, sump and timing cover.
 So lets have at it :big:
Pete


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## metalmad

a pic I forgot
Pete


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## Dave G

Very nice Pete, and its good to see you back in action. Dave


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## metalmad

Thanks Dave
I was really missing the shop, but about half a dozen things all went wrong for me at once!
I had to buy another car, the power failed and the Machine was braking down every time I used it!
Im working though it all, but I could have done without it :big:
Pete


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## Dave G

I hear ya. Yesterday I spent 5 hrs fixing my lawn mower, I still don't have all my home repairs finished yet, the weather hasn't been cooperating and winters getting closer. My goal is to be done in 2 weeks, we'll see. I really like your Wallaby project and am watching closely, Dave


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## metalmad

got in a little shop time this arvo and moved the block to the Mill and took the deck hight almost down to speck, leaving some room to clean up later.
Pete


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## metalmad

Today I bored out the cyls using the center of the main bearing web as my datum and hope to drill the head bolt and lifter holes tomorrow before i disturb the setup
Pete


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## metalmad

Drilled the head bolt and lifter guide holes and squared up the block a bit
but the lifter pillars still need to go down some.
I'm tapping the lifter guides 3/8- 24 rather then 26 as that's what I have, the headbolts will be 1/8 whit


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## metalmad

Did not get anything done on the Wallaby Today, but Bez came over and helped me start setting up my foundry behind the shed.
I will have to do a lot of work on the workspace for next time, but I was able to pour a ramming tool and half a dozen good size ingots.
Not a bad day 
Pete


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## steamer

Looking great Pete!

I'm in the road for business, bit should be home tomorrow. I'll type more then

Dave


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## metalmad

Hi Dave
I'm not a traveler and only leave the yard when I have to 
Its really nice living in the best country on the planet ;D
Looks like I need to make the big end Caps before I go any futher!


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## bezalel2000

th_wwp 

So RU gunna show us? 

where's the ramming tool?

 ;D

Bez


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## krv3000

HI nice work


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## metalmad

Hi Bez 
this is where old engine heads go to die
my work bench :big:
Thanks Bob
get a mill Bob! ;D
Pete


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## metalmad

Got a little bit done this weekend.
The big end Caps are installed now so I started on the flywheel from a bit of scrap.
I have not done the 10 degree internal taper yet as the smallest boring bar ive got is 3/8,
dont ya just love cast iron :big:
Pete


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## Blogwitch

Pete,

Is the taper system that is being done in the flywheel ET's usual method of a small slit tapered slug fitting up against a shoulder and the flywheel clamping up onto it?

If so, it is the best method I have ever used for flywheel fixture. It automatically aligns itself perfectly and when you come to take the flywheel off, just a slight tap and it slides off the shaft as easy as anything.

John


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## metalmad

Hi Bogs
The Crank end has a 10 degree inc taper going from 7/16 down to a 5/16-26 thread and then 1/4 at the end.
The Flywheel has a matching internal taper.
I'm wondering if i should do both internal and external tapers on the same setting.
At the moment i don't have a boring bar small enough anyway so Ill sleep on it 
PS Bogs
Any Chance of a thumbnail sketch of the slug system?


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## steamer

Hey Pete,

That's looking great!...I'll be talking to you next week Bez... ;D

Dave


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## metalmad

Hi Dave
So far this week I have no work booked in at all, so with any luck ill get the crank mostly done by the weekend.
of course this could all change with one phone call, so we will see what we see.
Pete
PS
u will love em Dave :big:


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## Blogwitch

Pete,

Your wish is my command






I did my cutting at exactly the same setting.

For the flywheel, I bored from small at the front to large at the back, then turned my taper cone onto the end of a bar so that the fit was perfect inside the flywheel. Then the bar was drilled and bored to a nice slip fit onto the crank. The slot was just cut with a hacksaw after I had the taper length with the small end about 3/32" in from the front of the flywheel, and the same protruding out of the back then parted off.

It gives you a few tries at making the crank taper rather than the one shot you have at the moment.

I hope this helps.


John


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## metalmad

Thanks for that Bogs
I need to think about that a bit
 I'm a little concerned that the wallaby crank would end up too weak if I took it down under 5/16 as everything about this engine so far tells me screamer :big:
I guess I could make the taper larger to use a thicker shank.
Is there any reason why you machined the internal taper from the small end?
I had intended going from the big end.
would there be a problem doing that?
Pete


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## Blogwitch

Pete,

I can guarantee that you won't have a screamer on your hands. I don't think any of ET's engines ever did that, even ones for fitting to aircraft.

The reason you do the internal female taper first from the small to large is that you don't have to move the topslide at all to cut the male taper, it stays at the exact setting you used for the female You just need to swap the tool from a boring one to an outside cutting tool, so the tapers should be at exactly the same angle. This is of course if you are using the topslide (compound) to cut your tapers.

John


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Bogs
maybe not a screamer then :big:
But ill be happy with a nice idle and good carby response.
(failing that, then just a runner LOL)
Pete


----------



## fltenwheeler

That looks great John. 

Just put a little radius on the inside corner. 

Tim


----------



## metalmad

Hi Tim
I guess the radius would ensure everything locked up?
and for strength.
Pete


----------



## ozzie46

Sharp corners are stress points for fracture points to start. They should be avoided when possible. 

 A radius makes for a stronger corner. 


 Ron


----------



## metalmad

Hi ron 
as soon as I pressed enter, my brain engaged LOL
(too little too late :big
Pete


----------



## danstir

Just thought I would say I am enjoying watching your build so you would know others are looking in. Thanks for sharing!


----------



## metalmad

Hi Danstir
Thanks for dropping in, I really enjoy the social side of Model engineering as well as building the engine itself.
By posting I find it helps me focus and gives me access to far better machinists then myself and its also great to chat with like minded people from all over the world. 
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I was hoping to start machining the crank today but the live center that came with my old lathe is on its last legs, so I think ill put off the crank till I can buy another.
Otherwise the crank blank is marked out and center drilled ready to go.
Pete


----------



## steamer

That's looking awesome Pete, I always liked the "industrial" look of the Wallaby.....

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
ETW had a style all of his own that's for sure.
I like what Ive seen of his, but his plans could have done with an edit or two :big:
maybe tomorrow ill setup the angle plate on the mill and start thinking about boring the crank and Cam tunnels.
Pete


----------



## ozzie46

Doing a bang up job there Pete.

 I'm enjoying the thread a lot. Thank you.

 Ron


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Ron
I'm still holding my breath a little bit in case I come upon more plan errors that could distroy all my work.
unfortunately its going to be some time before I know it will run!
but I'm learning heaps :big:
Pete


----------



## tel

They're not errors Pete, just little built in tests of character! 

Nice progress matey, while I've still barely seen the inside of my workshop.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Mate
I recon if this thing works, my Character will have improved greatly :big:


----------



## bezalel2000

Sweet Pete!

(The machine work mate, not you personally) ;D

Keep the Pix coming 

I'm enjoying seeing the progress.

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
I think I will line bore the block in the Lathe
not sure how to do it yet
more bearings then I'm used to :big:
So far I have just drilled it out undersize from both ends with a 1/4 pilot and then at half inch.
I had thought of buying a reamer but I might just make some kind of bore thingy ???
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

I have often thought of making a mount plate for my QCTP, then using a boring bar mounted between centres but wondered if it would be rigid enough. I just bored a block for my steam engine with 70mm of overhang and held the block in the 4 jaw. It came out okay I think because it was not a continuous cut just the webs at each end it did not build up any side force. Interested to see how you do it.
Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
I have my own unique solution ;D
I just did something else :big:
 made the lifter guides out of brass rather then bronze as its all i could get and probably cheaper too. If they wear out I have enough 7/16 hex to remake em, still have to ream out the lifter bores.
I will reread how u did yours and see if it helps in the anxiety department :big:
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

With regards to your comment about line boring and having to work it out.

Well, on the last picture of your last post, it shows that lovely machined top face, that has to be the datum to work from. Everything else just won't work right.


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bogs
when i drilled out the mains undersize i had the top deck clamped to the truely set angle plate and miked up on the block ends to get it square.
I'm sorta thinking about mounting the top deck on the cross slide of the lathe in much the same way, as the slide has two hold down slots going across the ways, What is scaring me a little is making the between centers boring bar!
it would need fine adjustment and i do not want to get distracted on what seems a project all on its own.
It seems obvious i will need one as my engines get more and more complex, but at the moment i have no idea how to go about it.
On another note, you mentioned you had built a couple of engines by ETW
I would love to see them  as I'm thinking of doing more of his later.
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

You will find that when you come to make some engines, you will spend more time making tooling and holding fixtures than actually making the parts, that is a fact of life in our hobby.
Just wait until you come to make the camshaft the Westbury way. 


This is a Whippet I built a few years ago and is still in my collection.

These pictures show it after it has run for a fair while. You will notice that the side valve mechanism isn't too oil tight, I think you will find the same on the Wallaby. The Seal actually uses a cover to keep it away from prying eyes. It was this engine
that put me off working with castings for a long time. The ones made by Woking precision were abysmal, and it looks like the Hemingway ones are no better.











The only other one that I have pictures of are for the Cygnet Royale
















As featured on the FAME Site, in their external combustion archive. Another picture of it is also used on the Hemingway site, the green one at the top

http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/The_Cygnet_Royal___Edgar_T_Westbury.html

Now residing in a new home.

Going back a long way now, I built the Seagull. From what I do remember, It had cylinders and heads like the Whippet, as they were separated units, and the pistons as far as I can recall, went up and down together, one on compression stroke while the other was on exhaust. 
That was donated to a good home as well, as do most of my engines, eventually.

I did have a set of Seal castings to make, but after reading about all the drawing problems and half hearted cures needed, I sold them on. That would take a lot of research to get one built and working correctly.


John


----------



## metalmad

imagine having made so many engines that they are given away :bow: :bow: :bow:

This is my first attempt at an engine from castings, mine have been cast by one of our members Bezalel.
he made the molds from scratch after i sent him a copy of the magazine articles and has done a really great job.
The first version had no provision for clean up of the deck height but he added a bit to the mold and also modified the sump slightly. 
The mark 2 castings are just great and I'm scared silly of stuffing em up.
When I went to see him the other day, i asked about the possibility of casting up the clutch housing too, so we shall see about that.
I'm starting to get excited about the Wallaby and am really looking forward to getting the crank done.
Pete


----------



## steamer

What Bog's said....you end up building the "engine" 2 or 3 times over in the form of fixtures and cutters,jigs.  There are some plans around on between centers bars....have at it and then practice setting it by boring the housing, or some other part, to a target undersize dimension....for practice. Then with your new found confidence and experience, bring the bore out to the size you want.  

You can do it Pete....I know you can.

Dave

PS Here I'm using a boring bar to correct my SB 9" counter shaft bearing bores on my big lathe...the bar came right out of the lucky box.....


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I want to make every engine a little more involved than the last in order to keep the learning curve steep, so one of these days you might see a pretty messy lesson learnt :big:
Boring the Big end Caps can wait a couple of days while i gather courage :big:
I will do a search for some bar plans tonight and see whats out there.
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

Messing up a casting is not fun (ask me how I know) even a crap one (unlike yours) but if itis a steep learning curve you want cracking a useable casting is like a shovel to the face. Dam senile cat Rof} Rof} Rof}. Keep up the good work Pete.
Brock


----------



## metalmad

your cat deserves a pay rise, not its fault you did not heed the warning :big:
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

metalmad  said:
			
		

> imagine having made so many engines that they are given away :bow: :bow: :bow:



If I kept everything I made, my shop would be full. Once something is built, which is the main area of my enjoyment, it sits on the shelf in my shop for a while until someone mentions it, then if they are a good friend, they usually get it for nothing (but only if I am in a good mood, that's not often nowadays). There are a couple I keep in the house, but other than those, there is not much left.
There are hardly any on my shelves worth having at the moment that is finished, even the Whippet still has things to do to it.

It was different when I used to show them at steam rallies for charity, but those days are over for me now, so why not let other people get enjoyment from them.


John


----------



## billmac

Metalmad -

You were worried about making a between centres boring bar. It really isn't that difficult, just make it as beefy as you can - but the interesting bit is how to get a fine adjustment. There are several ways of doing this, from a 'micrometer screw' adjustment to push the tool out a defined amount, through to cutter units like Microbore cartridges. A slightly different approach is to use a boring head to give a controlled amount of offset to one end of the bar. A variation on this is to make something that can apply a small controllable offset at the headstock end, so you get close with moving the cutter in the bar and then take the last bit with the headstock offset. See picture of one tool that I made that does this. It is intended to attach to a faceplate or go in a chuck. The centre is on a eccentric so that as you turn it moves slightly off-centre. Hope that makes sense, let me know if you want more information.






Bill


----------



## steamer

There is a similar way to do that with a boring head to support that. I find the other complication of keeping the bar from rotating with respect to the boring head to be problematic for me anyway.

I start by boring undersize, and then I measure the bore made.

Then I just use the head end of the dial calipers to bring the tool out a set amount relative to the bar.

Current diameter + 2 X (tool movement) = cut diameter.

Then , sneak up on it! ;D

Then take a dead pass or two with no tool feed, to take the spring out of the bar.

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bogs
 I can understand how you feel once the engine is done, as im a little the same, but of course if i gave anything away, id have nothing left  :big:
If you ever need a good home for the whippet, give me a yell ;D
with a nice polished base, it would have pride of place in my display cabinet!

Hi Bill
I do have a boring head and may well use that, but at the moment work has stopped again so even though i have time, im broke :big:

Hi Dave
In your photo of your boring bar, are the dots i see cutters?
perhaps held in by grub screws?
Pete


----------



## steamer

Hi Pete,
No, its just holes left over from the shafts previous life.....it made putting a cutter in pretty
easy..
 :big:

Dave


----------



## steamer

Here's a couple more photo's for reference.....


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave
during the week ill sort out something 
after work today i needed an easy part to make.
I ended up using the 4 jaw as the shape was a bit off.
Pete


----------



## billmac

You can make a decent between centres boring bar with not much more than scrap material. The steel for the bar doesn't matter much, they all have about the same Youngs modulus. Th cutter can be made from a broken tap or something similar.

Mounting your part accurately on the cross slide is probably the hardest part. I made a tooling plate for my cross slide which made it easier to clamp larger parts. See below for a case of pushing the capabilities of a Myford lathe to the limit. I wouldn't recommend this - the weight on the cross slide coupled with the cutting forces is really too much for a little lathe, but the results were fine. The material is continuous cast iron bar.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bill
I have been on the look out for a scrap bit of bar, but I really need to buy a live center.
Im hoping to get to the shops after work on monday, if i get finished in time.
Some time this week, all the stars will line up for me and ill get it done :big:
I had hoped to have the crank done by now too 
Pete
PS
my lathe has two very nice hold down slots on the cross slide, going across the Ways so work holding should be easy ( famous last words :big: )


----------



## billmac

Sounds good. My lathe has tee slots in the cross slide, but for large or awkward shaped parts a tooling plate can be better. I had no choice with the job in the photo - it was far too large for the Myford cross slide tee slots.


----------



## steamer

billmac  said:
			
		

> Sounds good. My lathe has tee slots in the cross slide, but for large or awkward shaped parts a tooling plate can be better. I had no choice with the job in the photo - it was far too large for the Myford cross slide tee slots.



Yes....I had the same issue with my Logan, and the plate helped a great deal.

Dave


----------



## the engineer

good to see progress 
and i thought those castings were a better quality than the ones i have seen and had from woking 
ie sealion and kittywake just about did my head in getting them sorted still have one kittywake set not worth the hassle with holes and hard spots every where 
 ps havent sent your book yet (working two jobs at 54 years takes some getting used to) but have some time to my self friday will try to remember them 
cheers john


----------



## metalmad

Hi John
No arruymate
The castings are real nice to machine with no air bubbles or holes.
I cast up a part for my lathe yesterday arvo and while its usable, its nothing like Bezs stuff.


----------



## ShedBoy

Good to hear you are pouring your own bits , its good fun hey. I had a look in the foundry section couldn't find it anywhere, can't be that bad if it is useable :big:. Wobbly (Wallaby) bits look good.
Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
I just went out to the shed to take a pic for you
The broken dial in my hand, came that way when i got the lathe, but with my new foundry, it was all the excuse i needed :big:
I have been picking that handle up of the floor ever since my first Engine the Webster, its going to take some getting used to ;D
there are some very tiny air bubbles if you look hard enough, but as I said its usable, its better then it was and i made it!
One day i will make a ball turning thingy and make better handles all round.
When i got the lathe, the only handle on the whole thing was on the tail stock.
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

Looks nfine to me. Good one.
Brock


----------



## metalmad

got to the shops the other day and bought a live center, so today i milled a bit of scrap so that the block is on lathe center, also made up 4 tee nuts to suit.
All i need now are 4 -3/8 bolts to hold down the block.


----------



## ShedBoy

Nervous yet?
Brock


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

You really need to invest some cash into buying a few lengths of threaded rod and nuts of different sizes.

Not only is it a lot cheaper than buying bolts of specific length, you can just cut the rod to the exact length you require, and it is easily reusable for other jobs as well. 

When working with castings, you would find it indispensable when it comes to holding fixtures and fittings.


John


----------



## steamer

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> Pete,
> 
> You really need to invest some cash into buying a few lengths of threaded rod and nuts of different sizes.
> 
> Not only is it a lot cheaper than buying bolts of specific length, you can just cut the rod to the exact length you require, and it is easily reusable for other jobs as well.
> 
> When working with castings, you would find it indispensable when it comes to holding fixtures and fittings.
> 
> 
> John



Ditto!
Dave


----------



## Jasonb

I'd also suggest you make some proper Tee section nuts, its not unknown for a nut like you have to pull through the tee slot and bring the CI with it due to over use of the big spanner.

J


----------



## billmac

You probably know this already, but it can be helpful to run a rubber band around the lathe dog and the catch plate spigot so that they don't bang around when you start the cut. Once the cut is established there is no problem of course.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
I can do this! ;D

Hi Bogs 
Thats a great idea, will do!

 Hi Dave ;D

Hi jason
I had not thought of that 
I might just use the 4 Tee nuts used for the compound
they look about m8 or something

Hi Bill 
ill have a go with the rubber band


----------



## ShedBoy

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Hi Brock
> I can do this! ;D


I have no doubt at all but if you are anything like me it still gets you going. Don't even get me going about first start after an engine build anxiety. One of them boring bars is on my list. Eagerly awaiting the next cut.
Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
I was feeling a little worried about it.
But the line bore is done now and while a little over size, at least they are all wrong together :big:
Ill just make the bearings to suit ;D
My boring bar needs a grub screw behind the cutter, for adjustment next time.
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Very well done indeed Pete.

Jobs like this always seem to be very daunting because so much is at stake, but once you got into it and finished the job, you most probably now realise it wasn't a major issue after all, and you have already noticed that you can make it easier by use of a grub screw.

Next time you have to do it, you won't be scared of it and it will turn out perfect.

Another string for your bow.

BTW, have a look at my signature line, very true words.


John


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Bogs
I'll never be content with just drill n ream for the Big ends again.
but i think I'll eather add the boring head to the mix next time or grub screw or both . I was not happy with the way i adjusted the cutter this time, but wanted to keep it as simple as possable for my first attempt.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Congrats Pete!
I knew you could do it!
A karma from me!

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

Looking good Pete.

I guess I've gotta read Westbury's version sooner or later.

For some reason I imagined you boring it with the sump bolted in place. 

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
The sump only holds in the oil Mate, and i like to see whats going on :big:
Pete


----------



## danstir

Good job, exactly how many times do you have to check the setup on something like that before you begin to cut?


----------



## steamer

Bezalel  said:
			
		

> Looking good Pete.
> 
> I guess I've gotta read Westbury's version sooner or later.
> 
> For some reason I imagined you boring it with the sump bolted in place.
> 
> Bez





			
				metalmad  said:
			
		

> Hi Bez
> The sump only holds in the oil Mate, and i like to see whats going on :big:
> Pete




You still can bore the sump in position now if you want! Leave it set up and bore the headstock side.  Then take the bar out and turn it end for end and rotate the tool and bore the other side.

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Danstir
I first used my height gauge to find the height i needed then milled the bit of scrap to size and miked that on the lathe,then after installing the block i miked that, both along the bottom deck and on the side ( the side was done at the same sitting as the bores)
I then locked up the slide and rechecked the side.
after that i just took it slow.
it will do the job Buddy


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
the sump just sits on the big ends and is not involved with the line bore at all.
The lathe has been put back together and cleaned ready for the crank
pete


----------



## steamer

OK  I thought there were oil retention bushings on the ends? ???

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
One end has the timing cover and if it doesent leak oil into it, ill drill a hole and the other end has a bolt on cover that sits under the flywheel.
If that weeps any oil, i may machine a counterbore for a rubber seal  
Pete


----------



## steamer

Don't have the article in front of me at the moment but that sounds right.

Make sure you make the crankcase breather valve as it will keep the sump at a negative pressure...that should help with oil retention too.

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

danstir  said:
			
		

> Good job, exactly how many times do you have to check the setup on something like that before you begin to cut?



check once for each dollar or each hour you spent on the casting thus far

Bez


----------



## Blogwitch

danstir  said:
			
		

> Good job, exactly how many times do you have to check the setup on something like that before you begin to cut?



I don't know about everyone else, but I start to plan machining in my head from the day I get my grubby claws on the castings.

I will be making an engine, hopefully in the new year, which I bought the castings for last year. Almost every part has been machined in different ways in my head ever since. When I hit on a good strategy for the cutting, I write it down in my notepad (your best tool in the workshop) just in case I forget about it over time.

Just a little note, castings are not an easy way to make an engine, OK it saves a bit of machining time, but in the long run they are more difficult because there is not usually one square or straight face you can work from, so extra time has to be spent getting those datums sorted out first. One wrong move at the wrong time can mean a ruined casting and more money being spent buying a replacement.
I find it much easier working from barstock, which is usually easy to hold and to get datums machined onto them, but unless you use a heavy grit blast on some parts, it is difficult to get your engine to look like it was made from castings, it will usually always look like a barstock engine.


John


----------



## mklotz

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> I don't know about everyone else, but I start to plan machining in my head from the day I get my grubby claws on the castings.
> 
> I will be making an engine, hopefully in the new year, which I bought the castings for last year. Almost every part has been machined in different ways in my head ever since. When I hit on a good strategy for the cutting, I write it down in my notepad (your best tool in the workshop) just in case I forget about it over time.
> 
> Just a little note, castings are not an easy way to make an engine, OK it saves a bit of machining time, but in the long run they are more difficult because there is not usually one square or straight face you can work from, so extra time has to be spent getting those datums sorted out first. One wrong move at the wrong time can mean a ruined casting and more money being spent buying a replacement.
> I find it much easier working from barstock, which is usually easy to hold and to get datums machined onto them, but unless you use a heavy grit blast on some parts, it is difficult to get your engine to look like it was made from castings, it will usually always look like a barstock engine.
> 
> 
> John



Amen, John, amen.

Serious model engineers will not only copy this post into their notebooks, they will scratch it on the inside surface of their safety glasses so they are reminded every time they enter the shop.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bogs
Hope you post your new build :bow:
and i agree its much easer to build with barstock if only because its so much easer to remake a bit after a stuff up.

Hi Mk
today i started on the crank by welding on a broken stumpgrinder tooth 
( i have a never ending supply :big
So far i have rougthed out the main shank to half inch and this time, im better prepared with hi tensile indexable bits but i still need a sharper tool to get into both left and right corners etc.
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

I don't want to hijack your post, but here is a little sampler.

I bought these castings at the same time last year, and I am now nearly at the painting stage, I am a very very slow builder nowadays. This is just after I made the burner and wanted to try the engine out.

[ame]http://youtu.be/Mi_T60n52jg[/ame]


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bogs
very nice runner  :bow: :bow:
would you be able to paint much on the engine ?
that burner looks hot enough for my foundry :big:
I painted my first engine, the "Webster" and the fuel has destroyed the paint so badly i try not to use paint now except maybe for flywheels.
Pete


----------



## steamer

How ya making out Pete?
Haven't had my Wallaby fix in a while...........

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
Been getting some work the last week or so. 
The only thing I've done since i posted last, is rough out the middle main journal to half inch.
With any luck, ill get a chance later this week to do the big end journals, if so ill put up a pic 
Pete


----------



## steamer

No worries mate.....just wanted to make sure you hadn't been kicked by a Wallaby or something..... ;D.....I don't know how you Aussie's deal with all these animals that are just dying to kill you like snakes and spiders and sharks and such....

Anyway

Do what you gotta do buddy....I'm not going anywhere.

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

steamer  said:
			
		

> No worries mate.....just wanted to make sure you hadn't been kicked by a Wallaby or something..... ;D.....I don't know how you Aussie's deal with all these animals that are just dying to kill you like snakes and spiders and sharks and such....
> 
> Dave



Never mind them mild critters, they usually run away if you make enough noise. 

Just don't stir up the   Drop Bears   they won't back down to nothing. 

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys
got a big job on tomorrow so dont know if ill get back to the crank, but here is a pic anyway.
My new live centre is rusty already 
If i get time ill check the tail stock and take the mains down a little closer, once they are close, ill do the big ends then put the crank aside for a week before doing a final finish cut on the mains.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Bezalel  said:
			
		

> Never mind them mild critters, they usually run away if you make enough noise.
> 
> Just don't stir up the   Drop Bears   they won't back down to nothing.
> 
> Bez




 ;D.....Yup gotta watch out for them don't ya.....all it takes is a little Vegimite...

Got it!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

took down the first big end journal to half inch today so if i get the chance ill finish cut tomorrow.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Looking good Pete! nerve racking isn't it ;D


Dave


----------



## metalmad

hi dave
all the dims are still well clear of finish cut size so im ok at the moment.
Ask me tomorrow :big:
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

I hate the serious overhang phase. I might try milling the next one I do between centre with the rotary table. But it is looking good from here!
Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
Im having a beer or 3 so i might be hung over tomorrow and i hate that :big:


----------



## bezalel2000

ShedBoy  said:
			
		

> I hate the serious overhang phase.
> 
> Brock



It takes more than 3 Beers to do that!  Rof}


----------



## metalmad

looks like im over the serious overhung phase.
now for hair of the dog :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Way to go Pete!  Bottoms up!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Ill put the Crank aside for maybe a week and then come back and do the mains and flywheel taper.
Not looking forward to the bearings cos have not decided how to split the blank yet.
I think ill just use super glue to put them back together as it worked ok on the wedges between the crank throws.


----------



## ShedBoy

I built some split brass bushes for a bloke a few years ago to go in a vintage bike engine. He was an older chap who had an idea. We cut milled some shaft length ways till we got to halfway then cut in half and soft solder together (well he done the soft soldering, held them in position with a hose clamp. Tightened when everything was hot) then put back in the chuck and turned, bored and reamed to size. Once it was parted off he heated them up to break them apart. Must of worked okay because he reportedly got the engine going. I think it may have been a Douglas. Crank looks good. Next twin cylinder I build will have the crank throws at 90 degrees to get some better balance. Keep it up Pete.

Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
I only just have enougth material for the 3 bearings if i cut in half and use both halves.
dont really want to use a hack saw so i need to think about it for a while 
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

your making good progress.  :bow:
I've no doubt you will sort the bearing challenge.

If it all goes pear shape you cancome and grab some ZA27.
Apparently running on steel it has less wear than phos bronze and lasts 5 times longer. 

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
I will have a go and see what happens with the gunmetal first buddy
I might end up buying a good hack saw or something.
My wobbly old thing needs dumping :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

The aluminum zinc alloys are amazing aren't they!

Your doing a fine job Pete.....keep the chips flying

Dave


----------



## arnoldb

Good going Pete Thm:

If you have a thin slitting saw you could use that to split the bearing blocks; more accurate and less wasteful than a hacksaw. Easier on the elbow as well; that's needed to lift beer 

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave 
I think i can see daylight up ahead :big:

Hi Arnold
I decided to try it with a hack saw and went a little wonky a couple of times.
We will see what we see, after clean up
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Got a couple of hours in today on the crank
Bogs I decided to keep the crank taper as it was one of the things that made me choose this engine to build.
Down the road i plan to try the tapered collet for the flywheel too 
Its neally ready to cut off but I have not done the 15/16-26 thread near the taper and on the other end yet.
Im hoping to do the taper in the flywheel after work tomorrow.
We will see.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I cut off and threaded the crank this arvo using 5/16-24 rather then the 26 tpi called for and i think it will be fine.
I did a rough balance test sitting on the con rod blanks (nice hard alli) and its currently showing an over balance which makes me wonder if the hollow big end journals are a good idea.
once Ive done the con rods ill check the balance again and see if anthing needs to come off the balance weights.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Pete,

You aren't really ready to balance yet as you don't have the rods or a equivalent rod weight on the crank....it should be over balanced right now.

It was originally supposed to have bronze weights on the crank. I don't know where it will be with aluminum rods though..

Get your conrods done first.  just my 2C

Dave


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

Don't worry about what I say, I was only giving you another choice or way of doing it. 

It is your engine, if you feel happy doing it the way you have, then it is the right way.

It's now coming along really well.


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I have started blocking out the rods so hope to have something done by the weekend.
I'm thinking about supporting the rods small ends so they are parallel and then checking if the crank stays put from the side on position.
What is really scaring me at the moment is cross drilling the crank for big end oiling :-\
Hi Bogs
The ideas of those i hold in the very highest regard are listened to very carfully even if i don't use them at the time.
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

Looking good Pete. I would be worried about them oil holes too. I am sure you will be fine though 
Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
I'm not sure "worried" adequately describes the shear terror i feel at the thought of drilling a 2 mm hole between journals this far apart.
just looking at the crank it does not look like its got the room to drill without a breakout.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Have not had much of a chance to do much but was able to set up the flywheel in the 4 jaw and using the same compound setting as i did with the crank bored out the taper for the flywheel.
Pete


----------



## tel

It's come a long way forward! Thm:

Just noticed your watermark in that last shot - that works pretty well!


----------



## the engineer

etw method of balancing
Balancing Small Engines
Notes on basic principles and practical methods of procedure 
Basic Principles 
by ET Westbury, 1951 
sorry for the long post but i have found this formula most helpfull in building my engines hope it helps i have cut the text down to te basic formula 
love the progress






 First, weigh the piston, complete with its rings, gudgeon-pin, and pads, or other retaining devices (this is pure reciprocating weight). It may be mentioned that sufficient accuracy for this purpose may be obtained by using a simple spring balance (since it is only necessary to find comparative figures), and a suitable type of balance has been obtained from the surplus market, as advertised in THE MODEL ENGINEER. 

 Second, weigh the two ends of the connecting-rod, either separately or simultaneously (preferably the latter) keeping the rod quite horizontal during the process. The small-end is taken as reciprocating weight, and the big-end as rotating weight. 

Third, assess the amount of weight to be cancelled out in the counterweight. This is done by adding together reciprocating weights of the complete piston assembly, and the small-end of the rod, which (if we accept the proportion recommended above), is then halved, and added to the rotating weight of the big-end. 

 Fourth, the crankshaft is poised on knife edges or rollers, to act as a balance, and the assessed weight is hung on the crankpin; the counterweight is then adjusted until it "stays put" in any position of rotation. This may entail either adding or subtracting metal at the counterweight, such as by fitting lead "slugs" in suitable recesses where they cannot be thrown out centrifugally, or by filing or machining away the surplus. In some cases, lightness of the balance weight may be remedied by reducing the web on the crankpin side, or enlarging the centre hole in the later, always having due regard for retaining a margin of mechanical safety. 

[Ron: Notice the "knife-edges" in the photo? Looks to me like two pieces of drill rod held in position on the leveled surface-plate by four small lumps of modelling clay. That is an idea well worth remembering!]

The weight necessary to carry out this operation may be made up from sand, lead shot, or any suitable material to hand; as may be seen, metal washers were used in the case illustrated. In the absence of a scale pan, a small bag may be used. It is important that the means of suspension on the crankpin should be arranged to produce the minimum friction. In the example shown, a small plug was made to fit inside the hollow crankpin (its weight being duly allowed for), having an extended pin of small diameter, on which the hook of the scale pan was hung. 

The figures in the example illustrated are as follows: 


Piston, with rings and gudgeon-pin .. 83 grms. 
Small-end of connecting-rod .. 21  " 
Big-end of connecting-rod .. 25  " 

(83 + 21) 
----------- + 25 = 77 grms 
   2 

(the amount to be cancelled out by counterweight)

Should the designer adopt a different figure for the proportion of reciprocating weight to be balanced, this part of the calculation must be suitably modified. This formula, however, has been used with success, not only in models, but also for larger engines which have had to work under exacting conditions. 

I have described this procedure in detail, as it is of interest to a large number of readers, to judge by the number of individual queries I have had to deal with, and I trust that this will clear away the last remnants of mystery regarding this subject. 

I have stated that these conditions apply to any orthodox single-cylinder engine; it is also correct for machines having a similar order of motion, such as high-speed pumps or air compressors. Balancing problems should not be confused with effects caused by working pressures, though these produce their own reactions, and may affect smoothness of working. In many small machines which are not required to run at very high speeds, little attention is given to the finer points of balancing, and within certain limits, the results are fairly satisfactory.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Tel
Thanks Mate
With the content pilfering that has been going on at the moment, i thought its better to be safe then sorry :big:

Hi John
Thanks for that 
that balancing data is just what im looking for!!
were there pics in that book?
and what is a "spring balance" exactly?
Pete


----------



## billmac

A single cylinder engine cannot be balanced perfectly (at least not without additional balancer shafts). The best that can be done is a compromise. Classic single cylinder motorcycle engines used a balance factor between about 45% - 66% of the reciprocating weight. The choice depends on the the direction in which the resultant vibration should occur. This is often dependent on the engine mounting. A 90 degree V twin on the other hand can be balanced well by counter weighting the crank with the weight of one piston and con rod little end.

I would be really interested if anyone has any suggestions for some balancing software that can do all the vector maths for a more complex engine. This can be done by hand, or even graphically, but is fairly complicated (to me anyway).


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bill
a little bit of vibration will not worry me too much mate
if she runs ok then any thing else is a bonus :big:
Pete


----------



## the engineer

a spring balance is just an old type weight scale all i use is a digital kitchen type cooking scales i bought them for weighing all the parts ie rods etc in the multipile cylinder engines to get them all individually the same weight
i can send you the whole text regarding balancing via email it was a bit long too post the full text might make it a bit clearer


----------



## metalmad

Hi Mate
please do, it looks like a great read but it looks like it will be some time before i get the crank finished.
This weekend is a bust as i have to go to a wedding this arvo and the missus birthday tomorrow.
have you been doing much?
Pete


----------



## the engineer

hi there 
good that info can be a help not something to read when tired 
just setup my new lathe so am going to make a start on a little de dion single casting set
 plan is in german so could be interesting


----------



## metalmad

I have enougth problems reading english plan sets :big:
Have a bit of a problem at the moment, My mill is stuck between gears and so far just will not move.
Im thinking about making a longer metal handle to replace the plastic one but sure wish i still had the old RF 31 as a back up.
The Hafco HM 48 may have only been 6 months old when i got it but they must have been a hard few months :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I was able to get my mill unstuck without damage by using a stud remover.
When i get a chance ill make a longer and stronger handle for the gear change 
With the mill sorted i got stuck into the main bearings.
The hole is still a bit under size so I'm not ready to install the Crank just yet.
Pete


----------



## Maryak

Pete,

Not saying much but following along................I reckon it's going to be a nice engine. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Dave G

Following right along with you Pete, looks great and I am enjoying your build. Dave


----------



## steamer

Pete,

Looking great mate!....you know I'm watching. ;D

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bob
Glad to see your getting back on track.
Take it easy Mate, this heat is a killer!!
Thanks for the drop in Dave, I want to keep in touch 
Hi Steamer I need all the support i can get mate
lots of stuff on this engine ive never done before :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

"lots of stuff on this engine ive never done before "


I was 17 and the transmission in my car went.  Ok no problem, I'll get another used one and use the lift as the auto shop /gas station where I worked.  Then I got the used tranny....and it scared me silly.  How was_ I _  going to do this? what the hell do I know about replacing a tranny...my dad wouldn't help..though later I figured out why

My boss at the time...and still long time friend...looked at me and said.

"...It's a piece of cake...go slow and think about what your doing.."
That gave me just enough confidence to go and do it...one bite at a time. it was going down the road 2 hours later. Not bad for a punk kid. 30 years have gone by but I still remember.


Pete,  You can do it...just go slow and think about what your doing.


Dave


----------



## ozzie46

I'm really enjoying this build as I have the plans to this but don't know if I will ever get the time to build it.

  Good job.


  Ron


----------



## metalmad

Hi Ron
Thanks mate 
I know what you mean about it taking lots of time. :big:
But lots of little bits do add up!
Pete


----------



## tel

Lookin' top notch to me Pete!


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Buddy
just sitting there for the time being.
im finding its too hot in the shed to do a great deal at the moment.
Pete


----------



## tel

Been hot here today as well, after a wet week of 'back to winter' - we even had the fire going again.


----------



## metalmad

on my last engine, i defined the point at which a collection of parts became an engine, as the installation of the Crank.
We have an Engine folks :big:
Pete


----------



## tel

Yee Haw! And it _looks_ like an engine as well!


----------



## ShedBoy

nice

Brock


----------



## steamer

Looks damn fine to me!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Guys
Im hoping to start the cam tomorrow so that will be interesting,
so far I have only made single cam lobes to suit exhaust valves on singles.
Pete


----------



## arnoldb

Good going Pete; it looks great :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Pete,
It sure looks like an engine to me. Great project from start to this point.
gbritnell


----------



## kustomkb

It looks great Pete!

All the best with the cam machining.


----------



## metalmad

HI Arnold 
Thanks Buddy
You have the same Mill don't you?
What oil do you use in the gear box?
My gear change is tight, makes me wonder if the last owner used the wrong oil.

Hi George 
Your work is an absolute inspiration!

Hi Kevin
Thanks Mate
today i faced the cam blank to length and drilled the center holes.
making the drive dog can wait till tomorrow. :big:
Pete


----------



## krv3000

well thats brill


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Bob
but there is still a looong road ahead and i still dont know how reliable the rest of the plan set is.
Confidence is high but so are the odds :big:
Pete


----------



## arnoldb

Hi Pete

I think I have the same mill - Chinese built RF45 type.
I use SAE 80W90 high pressure gearbox oil in it. The gears do sometimes tend to stick a bit, but I just twiddle the spindle a couple of times by hand while applying light pressure on the gear selector and it then changes over.

Regards, Arnold


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Arnold
when i get a chance ill change the oil 
Pete


----------



## danstir

The engine is coming along great.


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Mate
slowly slowly, bite by bite.
After work today i started roughing out the cam.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys 
I finished roughing out the cam today and will make up the jig for the cam turning this week, i guess.
Once Ive done the cams lobes, ill take the journals down to size and tidy it up


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

Are the cams made the usual Westbury way, that is a little holding jig with a timing plate on the end and you cut each facet on the lathe?

If so, just be careful, it is very easy to make your cam backwards. DAMHIK. But once you get it right, following his instructions, it makes a very nice cam indeed. To blend in the flats, I just used a bit of very fine emery strip stuck onto a lolly pop stick, and turned it in the lathe. It only takes a few seconds on each lobe.

I threw away the jigs I made on my last big clearout about 3 years ago, but they are worth keeping as they could be sent around the world to help others out who are building the same engine, as they weigh very little.

Best of luck


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bogs
Thanks for the tip, anything could happen :big:
I very much doubt anybody would want this jig John :big:
It is just a couple of holes in two end pieces, that give me the needed 0.65625 offset and a timing plate and pointer with a tapered hole.
The whole lot will go between centres in the lathe but I don't plan on spending much time on a one off jig as long as its functional.
I regret putting that last pic up a little as it looks much nicer in real life.
(The joys of close up photography i guess)
Pete


----------



## steamer

Ah no worries Mate it looks fine!

Are you going to do the Westbury way or the hunt and peck method on the mill? 

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I think in the lathe with Westburys jig as i think i understand his method
never heard of the hunt and peck attack :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Hi Pete

Go to Model Engine News site

http://www.modelenginenews.org/

Go to Resources _Site map_ , Alpha Index.

Sorry about that....

Click on CamCalc, and the page will open

The program will compute lifts and rotation for any given input parameters and give an output in a spreadsheet format. Usually you would use this on a milling machine with a dividing head.  Nice reading anyway.

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

metalmad  said:
			
		

> I regret putting that last pic up a little as it looks much nicer in real life.
> (The joys of close up photography i guess)



I wish mine looked as good.

but then the swarf ain't been removed from mine yet  :big:

looking Good Pete.

Oh! and if you do a good job on the cam jig - I don't mind "hand me downs"  ;D



Bez


----------



## John S

Did one using the Camcalc program at the last show demoing the CNC machines.
Just a generic cam, not for anything but generated a lot of interest.






After a quick polish with some scotchbrite.






John S.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
Ive followed your link a few times now with the intention of having a look at Camcalc and every time got sidetracked by all the wonderful engine builds on that site :big:
Hi Bez
your welcome to it buddy but be aware I'm going to build it from whatever i pick up off the floor ;D
Wow John
That Cam looks great !!
 And as far as CNC goes 
well maybe one day :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I got in a couple of hours after work today, but did not get the jig finished.
It still needs clamping bolts or something.
I do not want the journals marked even if they are not to size yet so i think i will split the side and have clamping bolts, the other center anything goes as long as it does not move.
Pete


----------



## Dave G

I'm still following along Pete. Looking like an engine to me and a fine one at that, Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave 
Thank you very much for saying that, it helps a great deal to know my engines are appreciated !!
I only need to make the timing wheel and pointer now and i can start doing the lobes of the Cam, that will be interesting :big:
Hope to get into it this week some time.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Not Wallaby related i know but some may be interested.
I picked up the whole thing for $50 AU at a yard sale on sunday.
big Kev does not know what to think :big:
Pete


----------



## tel

Good score! Get 'im interested early! Thm:


----------



## stevehuckss396

metalmad  said:
			
		

> I got in a couple of hours after work today, but did not get the jig finished.



Looks like a camshaft is about to be cut. Is that the cam in the fixture?


----------



## metalmad

Hi Steve
Yep that's the blank and i will cut it, but will it end up a Cam, dunno?? :big:
I'm using the standard ETW Cam timing for my first attempt, but if she sounds too tame, i may try something warmer later.
That's a whole new learning curve right there. :big:
As soon as i source a 2BA nut for the end of the Cam, ill give it a shot, but i may have to make one as BA seems even harder to get then UNC.
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hang in there mate, There's a couple in the post heading your way
 ;D


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
Wow
where in heck in Brisbane did you get BA??
Thanks Mate 
Pete


----------



## tel

Hobby Mechanics do 'em
http://www.hobbymechanics.com.au/

... or Minitech
http://wic043u.server-secure.com/vs4487_secure/about.asp


----------



## Blogwitch

That jig looks the part Pete, if you have got it right, it only takes about half an hour to make a real nice job of each lobe.

Where are all the tiny intermediate marks BTW, or are you going to guesstimate? 

I made a mistake one time of making a cam out of silver steel, then hardening it. They tend to break in half when dropped unless you normalize them, DAMHIK. I then started to use low carbon steel and case harden the lobes.

John


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Tel
With any luck i will get er done this week 
BTW Thanks for setting me straight on the Cam bearing Dim Mate 
Hi Bogs
If I'm reading the article correctly then ETW did the Cam in three parts, the flanks ,the base circle and the Cam nose.
If I have this right then the first flank is taken to depth on the first mark "EO"
then on "EC".
The intake is then done the same way after which the blank is rotated in the jig for the other cyl.
The base circle ill just guess a few degrees at a time and file the nose.
I think i understood it right, but we will see how good my understanding is when i make the first cut :big:
Pete
PS
im thinking of having the lobes chrome plated


----------



## bezalel2000

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Hi Bez
> Wow
> where in heck in Brisbane did you get BA??
> Thanks Mate
> Pete



Brisbane!  Heck no, I have to fly down to Mexico to get em at the "right price" :big:
Got a friend with a few spares

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
Looks like i owe you a trip up to Mexico mate :big:
today i did the flanks on the first exhaust cam, but I'm thinking of rigging a stop for the cross slide before going futher  I'm now far more confident of a successful outcome.
Pete


----------



## Dave G

Hi Pete, I made the camshaft for my Silver Bullet using the same method as you and it turned out quite well. That was until I 
finished the ends and didnt pay attention to which end was which. The first one I made would have made the engine run in reverse rotation from what it was supposed to so a second was made correctly. I mention this so you won't make the same mistake I did. Keep up the great work and I look forward to seeing your engine run. Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave 
Im excited to see you have started your next build 
After work today i made up a stop for the compound and did all the cam flanks.
With just a little bit of luck ill get the base circles done tomorrow.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I took down the base circle of the Lobes today but tomorrow looks a total loss so i may not get much done for a few days.
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

That is looking spot on Pete.

It looks like you are well on the way to making a good cam.

It always looks a daunting task when you first come across that method, but I bet now that you have got this far, it doesn't scare you any more. Thm: Thm:


John


----------



## bezalel2000

Looking like a cam should look, Pete

 woohoo1 woohoo1


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bogs
Thanks Mate 
not a lot more to do now, Im going to add the power take off on the end of the Cam not because i intend to use it, but simply as a interesting mechanical feature to the engine.
With any luck Bez, it will Work like one too :big:


----------



## ShedBoy

Looks spot on Pete :bow: :bow:

Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
Thanks Mate 
Hope it works as well as it looks :big:
I started boring out the Cam tunnel this arvo but stopped just under .700 (out of .750) in order to check everything is still OK.
got a big job on tomorrow so don't know if ill get much done but I'm hoping to finish the tunnel and start drilling the oil holes while i have the Crank out.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Got started on the Cam bearings today.
The back bearing needs a little shaping and drilling for mounting screws and once im sure i got the frount one right, ill press it in.
The hole is undersize and needs to be reemed. 
Hay Brock i thought u might like this pic :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Pressed in the frount bearing and after a little bit of filing screwed in the back.
Starting to come together now 
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I drilled and tapped the oil control cover that goes under the flywheel today
I made them 1/8 rather then the 6 BA stated on the sheet as i thought it would be easier to get, will probably counter sink but want to wait till i buy the screws.
Might make a start on the CYL liners this weekend


----------



## bezalel2000

Keep it coming Pete  :bow: 

I Can't work on mine  :-[

but I'm enjoying watching your's come together. *beer*

Cheers

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
Today i machined up the cast iron Cyl liners using ETW's 3 step trick.
I sat one upside down so the stages are shown and as soon as I get some more locktight, ill press em in.
By the way Bez if you (or any other Member for that matter) want to come over in a month or maybe Three, I recon we should be able to start this sucker.
There will be beer for when it starts and more beer in case it doesn't :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Today I had a go at the frount timing cover but could not find a way to make it work as well as id have liked.
After trying several different setups I used the center of the distributer housing as my starting point,Then I reversed the tool in the boring head and ran the Mill backwoods to clean up the center Boss, but as it ended up undersize, ill probably put a steel bush on it for the points holder to turn on.
Pete


----------



## Dave G

Hi Pete, your engine looks awesome. I admire your progress and ambition. What kind of beer did those caps come from, I might have a use for some. Goes to show how screwed up I am, a perfectly good bottle of beer and I'm only interested in the caps. LOL, Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
That's high praise coming from you 
But my desire to make an Engine is no substitute for your lifetime as a toolmaker and that is plain to see in your latest build.
The bottle tops are "Calton Mid" and ill save some for you and put em in the post for you if you want some.
Today I put the Cyl liners in the freezer and sat the block on a toolbox in the sun for a couple of hours and then covered them with locktight and pressed them in.
I used the locktight as a sealer only as those liners are not coming out for the life of the Engine.
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

In the photo it looks like crankshaft boss on the timing cover is way off line 
Does the pattern need adjusting or maybe a larger diameter boss?
Just a tad more machining allowance maybe?


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
yep i recon it needs to move over a bit as the oil pump hole and crank line up and if u put the pump hole in the middle then the boss is way over to the right. 
Pete


----------



## Dave G

Hi Pete, no need to send any caps, I'll look for them locally. Its not like I need any more projects but I'm always thinking(hoarding). Thanks, Dave


----------



## metalmad

U sure Dave??
They can be usefull in many ways, Workholding for instance and for when the day is done, they have Chess pieces printed on the inside.
Of course emptying the bottle is not too bad either :big:
In this pic I'm using them to help visualise a Starter motor/Dummy gen set.
unfortunately the shaft for the one way bearing will have to be remade as I tapped it by hand and it is showing a wobble when rotated.
I think ill just put the tap in the tailstock.
Pete
PS
 this set up is dependent on it having the power to turn the Engine at Cranking speed.


----------



## bezalel2000

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Hi Bez
> yep i recon it needs to move over a bit as the oil pump hole and crank line up and if u put the pump hole in the middle then the boss is way over to the right.
> Pete



OOPS!  scratch.gif   Sorry 'bout that Pete

Don't know what I was measuring when I mounted the Boss - but it definitely wasn't the vertical centre line. :wall: Its more than 3/16" out - and that's too slack - Evan for a woodworker  ;D

Can I replace the cover? or have you got too much time invested in it? your choice 

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
No biggie Mate, The High quality of the Casting is such that I'm reluctant to let go of it.
but the boss is way undersize now and might not be strong enough for the points holder.
I'm thinking of boring the hole oversize and pressing in a flash brass bush.
Why don't you cast up a "mark two" casting for your engine and if I stuff this one up, I can steal yours :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys
Got a fair bit done today, made and installed the lifters, found a bit of 5/8 stainless an bored it out to suit the Crank boss on the frount timing cover and locktighted it on and last but not least, I drilled the water jackets on the top deck.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys
Merry Christmas everybody ;D
I got a couple of things done today I have been worried about, The main bearing oilier holes and the dip stick hole.
ETW gives two options with the mains oiling and I haven't decided what I will end up with yet, but will have a good look at the block in the next few days to see if I have the meat to drill a connecting hole in order to use only one oil pipe.
The other option is for three oil inlets.
I also got the sump plug done, the water inlet and engine mounts drilled.
Pete


----------



## tel

Coming along a treat Pete! Merry Christmas!


----------



## arnoldb

> Coming along a treat Pete!


That it is ;D Thm:

Merry Christmas Gents !

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Tel and Arnold
 Its really getting to look like something now.
After the stress of christmas i needed a bit of shed time so i thought id avago at machining some plastic like stuff i got for the handles on the lathe.
I found it impossable with inserts and almost as bad with tool steel :big:
In the pic, im just starting to part off the distributor rotor.


----------



## Ramon

Hi Pete, (You're not the only one to have escaped )

I'm following your build and it's looking real good. 

Re the plastic ...
I don't want to teach granny but it looks as if you are cutting Nylatron - not the easiest of materials to get a finish on but it may improve things greatly if the tool is razor sharp and with high rake angles. Coolant helps too if you are able to use it on your lathe (no facility on mine). Wet and dry paper will take the fuzz off the egdes too specially if done under running water - hope that helps a little

Keep on with the good work though 

Regards - Ramon


----------



## ShedBoy

I use acetal at times, I use inserts at the quickest speed I can go, Always looks bad until you cut the streamers off that get folded over. Engine looks great.

Brock


----------



## steamer

Thats looking great Pete! Following along....that'll be running in no time.

When to you get to the pumps?

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Ramon
Thanks for the drop in, looks like you have been busy too buddy, love your work !!
I put the rotor cap back in the 3 jaw to face off the parting face this morning and experimented with the coolent a little.
Its funny but it had not crossed my mind to try coolent with plastic :big:
Hi Brock
I don't know what this stuff is mate,
 but it takes a fair bit of work to get a nice part made out of it :big:
I spun up the old girl to 1800 this morning with the coolent running and besides a unexpected shower got inconclusive results.
I ended up with a nice rotor, but still need to dial my technique in a bit.
Hi Dave
I'm afraid that any thing that's going to cost me more than a cup of coffee will have to wait for a while, I think the pump housing will look nice in brass, but don't have the stock .
I may try casting a brass bar from bits of scrap this arvo if I have enough gas, but have no idea if my foundry will do it or not.
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

I couldn't get brass to melt with my gas burner so I made a oil burner. Mine is the most basic thing you could imagine and makes enough heat to make it unbearable after opening. Go the oil burner. I can send you some pics of mine if you like.

Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
Pics are always good ;D
I have a oil burner i have not tried out yet but the gas is so convenent, ill give it a go with the gas for the hell of it  :big:
I really want to be able to turn unusable brass offcuts and swarf back into bar stock.


----------



## ShedBoy

Pic attached, just done a quick one in excell. Simple and really hot. It should do what you want.

Brock 

View attachment Burner.pdf


----------



## ShedBoy

I will post some pics of my rough as guts burner tomorrow. I think the best thing about this burner is it is very uncomplicated.

Brock


----------



## metalmad

Looks like I "found" some bar stock for my oil pump, I'm too embarrassed to say CAST, but hell, this morning all I had was a drum of small offcuts :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys
Today I blanked out the oil pump housing and covers, leaving a chucking piece on the main housing.
I should have enougth Bar stock for the dip stick too I recon ;D
Pete


----------



## steamer

Thats awesome Pete!  Wish I had the facilities to cast.....

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

Nice bit of brass casting Pete

It's real easy to burn off the zinc when your learning (not enough borax / flux or too hot - the latter being less likely in your open top furnace ) 

*Dave*


			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> That's awesome Pete!  Wish I had the facilities to cast.....


In a workshop like yours Dave, I reckon you probably have the facilities already - You Just haven't assembled them in the right order yet,  stickpoke


Cheers

Bez


----------



## steamer

No casting equipment I'm afraid....nor can I weld....I've never even tried it.

I can braze to beat the band though!



Dave


PS
I've been putting my shop together over the last 24 years.......some things have come...some have gone....but it takes time.
It doesn't happen over night....I hope my shop doesn't discourage someone who's just starting out.  Also don't think you "NEED THIS" or "NEED THAT!" to get on with an engine or pretty much anything. A lathe of some sort is a HUGE start.
The basic hand tools and motivation and your on your way.

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys
maybe I got lucky with the brass as i ended up with two nice brass bars with no holes etc
I just cranked the gas up to 20 psi and did something else for an hour :big:
didnt even know enougth to use flux LOL.
The brass seemed to flow better then the alli from when i cast the lathe dial, the alli dial also ended up with very tiny air holes.
One thing for sure the hunt is on for brass scrap!
as I have lots of alli ;D
Pete
PS
I wonder how the old girl would look with brass handles :big:


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys
I got Heaps done today, using a 1/8 rotary burr in my hand die grinder, I did the curved ports, combustion chamber and "mottled" the head etc, even the water ports.
I may sand blast the whole thing later, but I'm pretty happy with the way its going.
After that I did some more work on the oil pump main housing.
ETW siver soldered the pipe fittings on the turned pump but im going to give it a go, doing it in the Mill in one piece.
 I was going to wait until I have the gears but with the state of my finances at the moment, I don't want to even think about gears.
If I stuff up the pump I can remake it, I need the practice :big:
Pete


----------



## tel

what gears do you need Pete? I'm setting up for a run shortly.


----------



## metalmad

Buddy you got a Deal :big:
let me have a look
Sent you a email, Thanks Mate ;D
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Drilled the bolt and oil holes today, I just need to drill and tap 3/16-40 for the oil fittings and I can put in back in the lathe to part off.
Before I go any further, I think ill check what is the smallest pipe fitting I can get here, Ive never heard of 3/16-40 before,
Pete


----------



## tel

3/16 x 40 is an ME thread - no trouble to do those if you let me know what.


----------



## steamer

Nice Job Pete!  Are those gears 48 pitch?......I think?

Dave


----------



## tel

32DP according to the plans


----------



## steamer

Thanks Tel!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Tel
I'm going to need both the oil pump gears and timing gears Buddy and if you are set up for 32 DP then it would be a huge boost to the build for which I'm very grateful.
I'm not worried about special pump tooth forms mate, as I don't think at this scale high efficiency pumping is needed. The pump pinions have a 1/8 interference hole and ill make the shaft's once i have the pinions.
I have not drilled the block for the idler yet and don't think it matters much what you make the gears from.
The plan calls for two 40 tooth, two 20's and two 10s for the oil pump, some of the gears have flanges and the Cam gear needs to either have room for me to put a 10 degree inclusive taper or a bush with a taper.
The plans also show 1/4 holes in the gear bodies, put em in if you feel like it or not,
but I doubt i will bother  I'm not making a race car here :big:
Anyway thanks again Mate.
Gears are on my "to do list" but there is always the next engine and I'm broke :big:
Pete
PS
 Mate if its any easier just cut a couple of inchs of 40 tooth, 20 tooth and 10 and I can machine em to suit.


----------



## tel

The timing gears are no problem matey, i fact I have the 50t 40dp (in place of the 40t 32dp) blank cut and ready to machine, still looking for some material for the two pinions. As I said in the email, I'm not set up for 32dp - but the 40's will come out to the same dimensions and work just fine there.

I've been looking over the pump gears, and I'm not real sure I have anything to cut the pinions with. 13t 40dp would work, but I'm not sure if I have a no 8 cutter. I'll get one if I have to, but that will mean a delay.


----------



## metalmad

Tel 
Please don't Go buying cutters on my account,
The two oil pump pinions I can buy.
Once the Timing gears are done, I recon she will be running in a month :big:
OK I just found your email buried under Chrissy sales etc 
Thank you again, Tel but do not put yourself out on my account. In a couple of weeks, work will start to trickle back in and we will have the Wallaby hopping :big:
Pete.


----------



## tel

OK, I've had a look and no no.8. I do, however, have a number seven, which means I can cut a 14t - they would have an OD of 0.400" so you might need to open out the cavities in the pump body to suit 'em. Let me know.


----------



## tel

Well, as I said earlier, I need to cut a few gears on my own account sometime in the next few days, so a few extra is no big drama.


----------



## metalmad

I know you enjoy cutting gears or I would have said no, but for me its a big thing and really helps.
I just went out to the shed and had a look at the main pump housing and dont think there is a lot of room there to change the pinions.
I think I can buy the pump pinions for something like 16 bucks a pop so its doable, but the timing gear diameter will have to be the standard size as the top pinion shaft is driven off the lower gear and ive already bored the timing case.
Thanks Mate


----------



## steamer

I think I have that cutter Pete. Let me know...I haven't given my little mill a workout in a while
Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave, I really do appreciate the offer, but would rather buy the pump gears than risk stepping on Tels toes :big:
He made the timing gears for the "Sows ear" and they are still going strong ;D
I got a little bit more done on the pump today, milling off the chucking piece on the main housing and boring both inner and outer end caps using a 1/8 two flute end mill.
After that I drilled the holes for the 8 BA screws.


----------



## metalmad

I put the Carby up in the 4 jaw and got a little bit carried away :big:
might be a little too artsy fartsy for the rest of the Wallaby.
But then again once the air cleaner, throttle and mixture needle/jet Assembly are all on, it may look OK.
Pete


----------



## tel

Yep, already figured that the pump was driven from somewhere off the other cluster - no worries with the timing gears and big pump gear - they can all be 40dp and come out with the same dimensions (other than tooth size) as the called for 32's.

So, just to clarify, you need 2 x 50t & 2 x25t? I'm all over it like Oprah on a baked ham!


----------



## metalmad

Well I better get my arse into "gear" then I recon :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Pete, no worries mate...and I wouldn't want to step on Tel's toes either....might find a drop bear on my porch or something.... ;D


Dave


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

I don't think you need to worry about the carb too much. These early Westbury types of engine would run on a bit of pipe stuck in the side and a drip feed into the end of it.

They are very forgiving engines indeed, not like the higher compression ratio engines of later. My side valve, which I still have, will start quite merrily on almost any setting you want to give it, then it it a very easy matter to tune it for optimum running. 


John


----------



## tel

> Pete, no worries mate...and I wouldn't want to step on Tel's toes either....might find a drop bear on my porch or something.... Grin



A transgression like that would get a full wombat - never mind the drop b'ar.

These look something like 'em Pete? I've left the pinions on the stick - make it a bit easier for final machining - the stick is drilled and reamed to 5/16" for a depth of about 1 1/4 so you should be able to hack 'em off alright.


----------



## steamer

A transgression like that would get a full wombat - never mind the drop b'ar.


Sir!  Yes Sir!


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bogs
I'm really hoping for a nice runner and the way things are going I guess it wont be that long before we find out :big:
My next Engine "The Mastiff" is a side valve so that will be interesting!
Hi Tel
Those gears are fantastic Mate :bow:
I'm having problems getting the silly grin of my face ;D
This Build just took a huge step forward and by the look of those pinions, a bulletproof one :big:
Knowing Tel was on the job with the gears, I got stuck in myself and machined up the chucking piece of the Carby into an adaptor to suit the intake.
I then made up a plug for the threw hole and locktighted it in.
After that I started in on the intake manifold, using a center drill to make a radius on the end to suit the curved ports.
I may not have left enough thread for a locking ring, but I'm wondering now if I really need it as the manifold locks up to a ledge on the inside.
Dave it really is not wise to underestimate the Australian Wombat!! :big:
Pete


----------



## tel

The 50t's are CI, the pinions steel - shouldn't wear out in a hurry.


----------



## metalmad

Did a little bit more on the intake manifold today and did a trial fit up but I will probably modify it once the engine is running.
The oil pump in the pic is just sitting there for show at the moment 
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

Nice looking Pete :bow: :bow: :bow:

Brock


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Brock
It still has lots to go but I think as I start to hang bits on it it should really start to take shape from now on.
after playing with the manifold I did a bit more work on the rockers, drilling the pushrod holes and using my 1/8 burr to round it off.
The rockers only need the oil holes and a little wet and dry rub down and they are done.
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

It's looking good. Can't wait to see it running.

Just out of curiosity, did you give the the holes for the pushrods in the rocker arms a slight taper or did you leave them straight?

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
I hope I did not miss something here, My understanding of the text was a simple drill hole with a 1/8 drill to a depth of 1/8 and then using the 1/8 round burr to finish to a nice round shape.
The hole is just round!
What did you end up doing?
Pete
PS
 I just reread the relevent section and no mention is made for the wallaby of drilling at an angle and the diagram shows a straight line.
The Kiwi may well be another matter.


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

No worries.

I was assuming that the Wallaby rockers and Kiwi rockers were similar. At least they look similar. Although in the Kiwi documentation there is no mention of a taper, in the diagrams there is a taper shown. Most probably because the pushrods come in at a slight angle. I did not do a taper but made the hole slighty wider.

From what I can see in the Wallaby, the pushrods come in straight, so most probably a taper is not required.

Vince

p.s. I just reread the Kiwi documentation and at one time it mentions giving the hole a slight taper, but as I said it must be due to the pushrods in the Kiwi coming in at an angle.


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

That's looking real Sweet 

I think we are all keen to hear her runn'n


Bez


----------



## steamer

Bezalel  said:
			
		

> Hi Pete
> 
> That's looking real Sweet
> 
> I think we are all keen to hear her runn'n
> 
> 
> Bez



YUP!


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys
Im working onit :big:


----------



## steamer

Ya know the one thing I never liked about the Wallaby was the exhaust coming out the ends. I've sketched a bunch of different pipes trying to come up a better look, and I've never liked any of them.....


But what you've done with it is Awesome! it looks great! Completely changes my view of the subject!......Well Done!

 :bow:
Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I'm glad you like the lake pipes :big:
But I still feel more could have been done.
I'm happy with the front pipe but the flywheel end one needs to come back around towards the engine and then reverse back for both pipes of the same length to end at the same place, unfortunately I ran out of pipe before I worked out what I wanted.
The Base will have to go back onto my scrap wood pile as its not wide enough ;D
Pete


----------



## flatlandflyer

Pete,I've followed your build from the beginning,enjoyed all of it,love the lake pipes, AWESOME as the younger fellas say here.
 Is that a real T120 in the back ground of your last pic?
  Gimpy


----------



## the engineer

i wondered that before about the bike but looik at the scale of the window blinds bloody nice model tho 
both of them
ps the little de dion is comming along ok made some changes to the plan for easier maintenance of the valves


----------



## metalmad

Hi Gimpy
Thanks Mate
its just a plastic model im afraid but I like cos it reminds me of younger days 8)
Hay John how about a pic?
How far have you got?
Pete


----------



## the engineer

took some pics tried to start a thread but pics too large i will resize them and try a gain over sat 
too late last night with work next day get up time comes too soon


----------



## metalmad

Great news this arvo
A little box from Tel turned up so I rushed out to the shed and did the 10 degree inclusive taper in the 4 jaw.
The pinion on the Crank will probablely be used as the idler, I left the other one on the stick for the time being as it needs a keyway before parting off.
The fit on the Crank is nice and firm, dead nuts in fact ;D and the idler just fits between the gears real nice too.
I guess this means this thing will run :big:
Thanks Tel Top job  
Pete


----------



## tel

;D My pleasure mate!


----------



## metalmad

I made the idler stud today and then drilled and bore finished with a 3/8 two flute.
The stud still needs to be drilled in the 4 jaw and the end of the hole blocked, once the stud is pressed in the oil hole to the main has to be redrilled thru the stud for idler pinion oiling as well as mains.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Looking Awesome Mate......

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
Its slowly taking shape I think But today is so hot I did not feel up to doing too much.
I did however drill and plug the idler stud and after a few hours in the freezer pressed it into the block which I left in the sun for a while.
I was not sure if the position of the oil hole mattered so I left it a 90 degrees and left the pinion off in the pic to show.
I also did the keyway in the Crank pinion and drilled the water outlet port in the top plate,
The article shows a dia of 5/8 for the outlet but I believe that to be an error and made it 3/8 in order to use the same bolt centers as the others, which looks the same as the drawing. 
Pete


----------



## steamer

I'm really liking this build. I like that engine...reminds me of a big Wakesha I worked on as a kid with my Dad.

6 cylinder...900 and something cubic inch. Was in a firetruck.

Big, rugged , pourposful.  Everything was there for a reason or it wasn't there.

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave
The shops are open today and I was able to buy a couple of bits of pipe and I think im close now to where I want my "lake pipes".
Once they are Silver soldered tomorrow ill trim em up a bit ;D
Its stinking hot today 
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

metalmad  said:
			
		

> I did however drill and plug the idler stud and after a few hours in the freezer pressed it into the block which I left in the sun for a while.
> Pete



I wish I could have spent a couple of hours in the freezer today :big:
What a hot day!

Bez

P.S. one missing letter can make a big difference


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
Its a shocker today 
I need advice which of the extractor versions do you guys think is best,
I want to get something soldered tomorrow but I'm having problems deciding.
Pete


----------



## steamer

I'm digging the first ones....makes it easier to work on the back of the engine......Looks less motorcycle, and more engine room.....thats my story and Im sticking to it! ;D

Dave


----------



## steamer

A picture of the type of truck I was thinking about....a FWD with a Waukesha in it...though this one is the smaller engine.....ours was a 1955 IIRC....yes FWD does stand for four wheel drive...these trucks were beasts

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WNoYSh7YHk&feature=related[/ame]


Dave


----------



## metalmad

What a Beast wow
and that's the small one :big:
you have sold me, if I can find it, ill use the first one but I'm serious its gone missing
Maybe the boy took it 
but theres no point asking big Kev.
He can not talk yet ??? and ive looked everywhere man 
Pete


----------



## gbritnell

I personally like the looks of the equal length pipes. Along with somewhat balancing the performance of both cylinders they give it a 'cool' look with the extra curves.
gbritnell


----------



## metalmad

Hi George
I do want the pipes the same length and cool is always good 8)
I had another hick up today that I'm amazed I did not pick up before.
The first pipe was stainless and when I went back the second time they sold me some coated rubbish with a much thicker wall thickness ???
Finally I was able to source some more stainless for the back pipe and then I broke my cheap $30 bender 
I wonder if Kens bender can be modded to take 3/8
I really need a top notch bender and it does not look that hard to make.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys
After my last post John bogstandard sent me a very nice email with a set of plans for a easy to make pipe bender.
 Here it is, "the Torus pipe bending tool"
So far I have only made former rollers for 3/8 but will have to make a set of 1/8 formers for the oil pipes down the track.
In this pic I'm just doing a practice exhaust pipe with some of the thick wall tubing I had left over. With this bender its easy to do 180 degree or more bends without deforming the pipe but I may remake the "fence" or guide as the thin wall angle I made it out of does not really seem strong enough for the stainless steel 3/8 pipe I'm using for the system. As yet I have not tried the stainless but the thick wall tube works very well.
Pete
PS
Thanks for the trick cast handle Bez 
and of course John for sending me the Plans just when I needed them ;D


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys
I went to see Bez this Morning for a cuppa and had a very enjoyable chat about the Wallaby as he had not seen his castings since I got hold of them.
After getting such a nice set of con rod castings I thought it was only fair to take a few tentative cuts. At the moment I'm a little unsure of how i will go about the work holding etc but for now Ive set up on parallels in a huge old 4 jaw that came with the lathe, the Chuck is in very poor condition and has a large thread on the back rather then the DI-4 of the lathe.
As I don't have a R/T yet It will have to serve. 
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete 

It looks like that 4 jaw milling Vice is just the ticket :big:

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
Its hard to believe but I actually thought about throwing it out two years ago.
I would not use it for turning but it really does make a nice Vice for the Mill :big:
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Pete

So apart from the conrods, what other parts are left to do? Can't wait to see the Wallaby running.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
Bez is going to cast up some pistons for me soon and besides that I have lots still to do on the oil pump and oil plumbing ( all the fittings will need to be made ) I had another idea for the back exhaust pipe the other day and so I'm even more undecided then before about that ???
At the moment I'm considering a rear pipe that comes out in a fat bottom S patten on the other side of the head from the other one with both having the same length.
I also have a lot of Carby work to do, I guess I'm avoiding the Carby a bit as there is a fuel metering rod/Spraybar that goes right through the rotating throttle made out of brass hex.
My Lathe was not a runner when I got it and still has issues, for instance the 3 jaw is wildly inaccurate and I hate it when the hex ends up all over the place. I also still need to buy the drill bits needed for the spraybar.
I still need to make a valve facing tool to suit, I could go on and on :big:
It seems I really have very few parts completely finished. :big:
I don't think ill even mention the Clutch 
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

Sorry, but I thought you were on the home run. Guess I'll have to wait.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi VInce 
No probs mate
I have a tendance to put off things that scare me, which of course does work for a while, but sooner or later everything is scary :big: :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys
Have not been feeling too great the last week or so but got into the shed this weekend and got a little done on the Conrods.
Maybe tomorrow ill drill and ream them.
Pete


----------



## tel

I thought you'd gone a bit quiet! Still, the rods are shaping up well, and any progress is a good thing!


----------



## metalmad

Hi Tel
Its been raining non stop here and my Arthritus just loves it :big:
Pete


----------



## tel

Yeah, I heard you were getting a bit of weather up that way, and beyond.


----------



## steamer

Looking good Pete!

Hope your feeling better!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave
Im getting to the point when im not good for much any more and it kind of gets me down a bit. But with any luck there are a few more engines in this old Dog yet ;D
The trick ZA27 Conrod castings I got of Bez machine a bit like glue but should not need bearings as im told that stuff is 5 times better then Bonze for bearings.
With that in mind im gunna just drill and ream the big and little ends
Should make a nice engine 
Pete


----------



## steamer

"....Im getting to the point when im not good for much any more and it kind of gets me down a bit. But with any luck there are a few more engines in this old Dog yet ..."


Boulderdash and poppycock....to say nothing of th_bs....always wanted to use that one.....

Don't let it get you down mate.  Do what you can till you feel better....

We'll be here regardless...We'll help anyway we can.

Dave


----------



## Dave G

Hi Pete, I'm still here with you and enjoying your progress. Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys 
I'm feeling much better today and put in a few hours on the Rods.
I drilled and reamed them to a nice firm fit on the Crank, while a lot more work on the rods is still needed I could not resist a trial fit up and sure enough the Caps hit the Block in 4 places so Tomorrow Ill relieve the Block a tad.
I have not checked for balance as yet as the Rods still remain unfinished and I gotta say rods from Castings are much harder then from a flat bit of bar where you can just drill the holes and then cut away the bits that dont look like a Con rod.
Pete


----------



## tel

Yes mate, the use of castings introduces a whole new set of problems for the lesser parts, not least of which is effective work holding.


----------



## Maryak

tel  said:
			
		

> Yes mate, the use of castings introduces a whole new set of problems for the lesser parts, not least of which is effective work holding.



The good thing is if you cast your own, you can add spigots to the cast to facilitate work holding.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel

Very true Bob, but for some reason a lot of commercial casting producers don't seem to think of things like that.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys
Well It has been a bit of a eye opener that's for sure, as at first glance Castings look so easy  :big:
I must admit though that a nice Flywheel casting is a wonderful thing and makes life really easy 
I had to do a fair bit of work to get a clear path for my new Rods but as of today we have the Crank and rods Rotating assembly even if it does still need cleaning up.
I then drilled the 7/64 cross hole for the Throttle assembly unfortunately the smallest mill bit I have, seems to be 1/8 so I may have to put finishing the part off for a while.
The part is slotted up to the cross hole from the venturi from opposing directions on either side if that makes any sense, to allow the throttle to open and close with the cross bar installed.
After drilling the cross hole I'm starting to wonder about my choice of Stainless for the throttle, I just hope it slots 7/64 OK
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete 

Making good progress there.



			
				metalmad  said:
			
		

> <snip>
> I could not resist a trial fit up and sure enough the Caps hit the Block in 4 places so Tomorrow Ill relieve the Block a tad.
> <Snip>
> 
> Pete



From what I can see 

I think one of the reasons the conrod hits the block is the marking out start point, which needs to be in the middle of the gudgeon pin. If that is not quite right every thing else isn't either. if the gudgeon pin hole is below center the top of the big end will be too high and will hit the side of the block on the way up.

From the gudgeon center point you need to measure down 2250thou and scribe a line across the big end go another 5mm (sorry about the metric ETW) and scribe another line.
The 5mm is to allow for the all too common curved hacksaw blade and a clean up afterword.
When you mill down to the scribe lines on both cap and conrod the oval at the big end should become a circle when you bolt the cap on.

If you don't remove the full 5mm kerf, the conrod will be too long and probably hit the side of the sump on the way down.

I'm happy to take any suggestions on where to stick the chucking pieces on future conrods (providing suggested location has easy access to sunlight) ;D

Bez


----------



## tel

;D Not much you can do about putting chucking pieces on con-rods Bez. But they do need some care with marking out.

Now, to avoid curved hacksaw blades - scribe your line right across the face of the big-end, then set it in the vice with the line exactly on the jaw height - now saw off in the horizontal position, with the blade lightly pressed down on top of the jaws.


----------



## bezalel2000

I might try that tel . Though I'm favouring two cuts with a 1mm slitting saw and 4mm down on the quill (or how much is a 5mm SS be? :-\ ) 'caus I'm known to cut a straighter line with a scroll saw than I can with a hack saw

Bez


----------



## tel

Slitting saws are cheap enough these days, but sometimes just aren't worth the bother of setting up.

'nother thing - I always drill, counter drill and tap for the cap bolts before cutting off.


----------



## metalmad

The slotting of the throttle went well and so I started on another scary bit, the spraybar.
Its made out of 1/8 brass hex and has a 4BA thread near the hex and a 6 BA thread on the other end.
I was worried about this bit as it also has a 1/16 hole to a depth of 13/16. The Jet will be drilled from the other side.
The 4 BA thread is to screw into the carby body, but also is used to screw the spraybar into a threaded fixture in order to machine the other side.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I drilled out and threaded a bit of scrap for a fixture and machined the other side of the spraybar using 5 mm thread for the fuel inlet.
I hope i have not stuffed this up as I used a 1mm drill for the jet even though a number 70 was called for. I have a feeling a new chuck would be needed for the smaller drill and Ive used 1mm before but only with a fixed throttle.
At the moment the cross hole is 1 mm as well but this may change during tuning, as I think it should be a number 55, but I'm having trouble reading the speck in the article.
In any event my thoughts were with John and Mal today.
Pete


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Pete,
You say that working with castings opens up another whole can or worms, so to speak. I think the one thing that a lot of fellows fail to realize when they are making castings is to provide some way to chuck the part, a round boss, a square lug or something. It's easy to mill or turn it off when finished but it's a real pain when you don't have anything.
You're making great progress on the engine.
gbritnell


----------



## metalmad

Thanks George
I'm not saying Castings are a bad thing, cos they are not. They give a whole new dimension to an Engine which I really like!
I am even considering casting up the Block for my next project myself, but if I do, it will not be in the same league as Bez's stuff.
A few weeks ago a customer gave me a couple of big drums of old brass sprinklers that he had lying around and I recon I can see a few blocks and flywheels there :big:
I did a little more on the spraybar today, but may well remake the mixture needle knob larger as my hands don't grip small things well.
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

I bet those two huge rubber sprinklers in the bagground work really well (in the rain) :big:

Cheers

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
The way the weather has been lately Ive wondered if I should buy a little boat to go to the shed and Back :big:
Today seems to be clearing up so maybe ill hold off for a while ;D
Did you have any luck with the pistons Mate or should I Barstock em?
I have plenty to go on with in the meantime though.
I'm thinking of having a go at the center hub of the big gear that drives the oil pump soon, Scary 
Pete


----------



## steamer

Yeah that 1/8" square hole has me worried too! I was wondering if it could be done another way....like an Oldham coupling....

I suppose it doesn't need to fit too tight....as a matter of fact it shouldn't fit too tight.

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I have not machined the matching inner oil pump case yet either and will not drill the timing case mounting holes till the pump assembly is done.
I'm also wondering if that inner gear hub should be hardend and pressed into the gear.
PS Have u started yet?
Hope u post!
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

The list of excuses I have would qualify for a thread of their own 
So the brief version-
Earth leakage fault on wood lathe motor = can't make the pattern and core box
Idea! = steal motor off surplus drill press 
Lathe pulley has 5/8" shaft and 8mm through hole = 1" bearing puller won't fit down 8mm hole.
10mm thread inside motor shaft = 8mm push rod jams in motor shaft before pulpy is loose.
Lots of late nights = got 8 mm rod out  :wall:
Use 6 mm push rod = pulley finally removed.
Foot plate on replacement motor different size = drill & tap new mounting holes in mounting plate
Replacement motor overheats when mounted horizontal = new motor coming next week
Sorry about the delay - I've bin kinda busy :

Bez


----------



## steamer

Hey Pete!

NOPE not yet....trying hard to get the damn SB done......First job for her is the plan... ;D

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez sorry to hear about the woodlathe drama
but its gunna be awhile til i need pistons 
I think I might make some Sparkplugs this arvo, that is if I can get myself out of this chair and into the shed :big:

Nice one Dave 
I better get a move on then :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Made up a couple of adaptors today from the m10-1 to 1/4- 32 for a smaller set of home made plugs.
Here with the "Rattler" plug for effect. I have always thought the 3/8 plugs in the Wallaby are too large, The adaptors were made from the same bit of scrap stainless steel I made the throttle out of, I may put flats on them but I guess they dont really need em as once the plug is screwed in they will nip up ok.

Pete


----------



## steamer

Oh I like the smaller plugs......I'll need to note that!

Dave


----------



## krv3000

ooooo nice


----------



## metalmad

I recon once everything is on the Engine the smaller plugs will look more in proportion, Dave but only time will tell.
Hi Bob Thanks for the drop in 
have you been doing much?
It seemed like I wasted half the arvo today looking for the length of piano wire I make my spark plug electrodes with, looks like a trip to the Hobby shop tomorrow.
Pete


----------



## krv3000

HI as one with a new engine I will post when dun keep up the good work


----------



## metalmad

I found an old bit of timber for the Base that may be OK after a few coats of varnish
Its nice and heavy too so it should not jump around too much.
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

The engine really is looking very good.

I see you have made your new pipes, did that little bender do the job, or did you have to use something a bit more robust?

Your on the downwards slope now, so don't go doing anything silly.


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi John
I did have to modify the "Torus" bender a little as the Stainless pipe was very hard to bend,
All I ended up doing was welding on a threaded adjuster to stop the roller sliding back and Im thinking of one day adding ball bearings to the rollers but I doubt that will make much difference on the oil pipes I need to bend next.
I have not hard soldered up the rear pipe yet but guess I will soon, I have tried so many different rear pipes its not funny and I like most of em, It really is a pity I can only use one.
Pete
PS 
IT may still end up a paperweight Mate, there is still a lot to do, but with just a little luck it will be OK.


----------



## steamer

You can do it Pete!.....1 bite at a time...think about what your doing!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I want to try and get some form of engine mounting brackets done this weekend before this thing is knocked over and my new plugs broken.
Looking at this photo I recon I will replace the inner nuts on the plugs with a brass washer, that will look heaps better 8)
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Looking real good Pete 

ther'll be a blue tint on them pipes real soon - we're waiting  stickpoke

Bez

P.S. I hope you've got Bogs permission to supplement your photos with his mugshot :hDe:


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
I reckon she would be easier to start if I had some pistons :big:
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

ouch! 


;D


----------



## steamer

Hey Guys,

What's the plan for the oil pump gears?  10teeth is below the #8 cutter range for 20 and 14 1/2 pressure angles.

I suppose we could substitute 12 tooth, and make the gears a smidge narrower?

At 32 DP, the gears have a 5/16" diameter pitch circle.  

The OD would be (10 + 2) /32 = 12/32 = 0.375"

With 12 teeth, we get a 12/32 or 0.375" Pitch diameter and a 14/32 or 0.4375" OD

It looks like you can get those two gears into the same 7/8" diameter body, but we would need to move the cover plate holes out a bit to clear.  

As the gear now has 12/10 or 1.2 times the volume with the larger gear, we would have to make it narrower to reduce the total flow rate back to design by 10/12 or 0.833 x .25 = 0.208" wide.

Does this make sense or am I all wet?...or do you guys have a way to make 10 tooths that your holding out on me on? ;D

Dave


----------



## steamer

NOPE...I take that back...you will need to make the housing bigger to get the bigger gears in...

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I don't know that making the pump housing bigger is such a good idea mate, Remember u will need clearance for the points housing that rotates on the center flange.
I have already drilled my housing anyway.
All it needs is the back to be machined to suit the hole in the gear hub.
I'm considering a disk shaped points holder with a simple pressed in handle but I will have to buy the points first, I think I would prefer using an off the shelf set of points for easy replacement.
Pete


----------



## GailInNM

Dave,
You can get pinion wire in 10T 32 DP from SDP-SI. $19 to $25 for a foot depending on flavor.

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/Direct.asp?GroupID=438

As I recall there is also a European version of the same store.

A foot would make a whole bunch of gears so you could share.

Gail In NM


----------



## steamer

YUP.....Was just going to report back the same information Gail.... oh:



Thanks....

Dave


----------



## metalmad

That is so cheap
The price for a 300 mm bar is $55 bucks here
but for a single brass spur gear ready to use is $13.95
looking at the specks both width and hole size are correct
so I guess the easy path would be to buy em ready made.
I hit copy on my short cut to the listing but im not showing a paste option now ???
god I hate computers :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

To be honest, as long as the materials are correct, you can't make a gear that cheap!.....the cutters are too expensive!.....though I suppose I could make a "hob" and cut all of them with it.....

Would be cheaper to just get the bar.......... :big:

Dave


----------



## metalmad

I thought so too Dave for a ready to use brass gear.
They just need the shaft pressed in, but im having a bit of a slow period at the moment, only doing things that dont need much work like the stand etc.
That way at least some progress is been made while im not feeling that well.
Pete


http://www.hobbyparts.com.au/store/partslist/gearsspur32pitch20degree/gearsandgearing/wide/1/


----------



## steamer

I'll buy the pump gears, but I'll make the rest of the gears ....with my son...as a teaching excercise....that's my story and I'm stickin to it! :big:

Pete, are you going to put a water pump on yours?

Dave


----------



## metalmad

The Wallaby articles do not include a water pump and to be honest, i haven't even thought about it much. If it gets too hot I guess a waterpump and radiator are called for. I was just planing on a large water drum but we will see I guess.
I have been able to get part of the Sealion article off the internet and it does include the waterpump, but I'm not sure how id run it, Maybe a remote pump driven of the power take off on the end of the cam or somethink? 
I have seen it driven by a belt from the flywheel but if you want to include a clutch then that's out, so I guess an electric pump has to be at least consided, maybe hidden in the base etc.
Pete


----------



## steamer

I was thinking of the back end of the camshaft. It's mentioned in passing in articles.

Probably a gear one.

Dave


----------



## steamer

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Hi Dave
> I want to try and get some form of engine mounting brackets done this weekend before this thing is knocked over and my new plugs broken.
> Looking at this photo I recon I will replace the inner nuts on the plugs with a brass washer, that will look heaps better 8)
> Pete



And yes I agree...those plugs will look great that way!

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Pete,

Coming along in leaps and bounds. I wonder who will have the runner party 1st. You or Me ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel

> Coming along in leaps and bounds. I wonder who will have the runner party 1st. You or Me Grin



I can't stand the suspense! :hDe:


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bob
I have heaps to do yet Mate so I guess it will be you, but either way reserve me a seat buddy 
Hi Tel
I started on a set of engine mounts today and they have given the Engine a "robust industrial chunkiness"
that I really like, the pic doesn't do it justice I recon, Do you like that mate, made it up meself "(;D)"
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

metalmad  said:
			
		

> <Snip>.
> I was just planing on a large water drum but we will see I guess.
> <Snip>
> 
> Pete



If a 44 gal drum isn't big enough - get one from America - apparently there 50 gal over there :big:

Those engine mounts look sweet.


Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
Thanks mate, I was going to bore a hole in the middle too but now I'm not sure, the heavy solid mounts give it a "Massive" look and I think once Ive added all the detail it will all work together. I was going to use the 350 g Lolly tin Ive been saving for the cooling and if we are talking scale then that's a lot of water ;D
Pete


----------



## steamer

OK,,,,,how many 350g lolly tins fit inside a 55 gallon drum? ;D

Dave


----------



## metalmad

I think I better borrow from Tel 
Let me just go have a look for my Tadometer :big:
Pete


----------



## tel

> If a 44 gal drum isn't big enough - get one from America - apparently there 50 gal over there big laugh



 Rof} Yah! But they be 50 *US gallons* - which comes out to around, lessee ..... 44 real gallons!


----------



## bezalel2000

steamer  said:
			
		

> OK,,,,,how many 350g lolly tins fit inside a 55 gallon drum? ;D
> 
> Dave



IIRC 831/2 Thousand give or take arf a doz. - assuming imperial grams - if you want that in metric - Please consult your Psychiatrist
 ;D


----------



## tel

And if you eat the lollies please consult your dentist!


----------



## steamer

I knew I shouldn't have asked...... : ;D


----------



## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> OK,,,,,how many 350g lolly tins fit inside a 55 gallon drum? ;D
> 
> Dave



Are the tins round or quadrilateral ???

Are the gallons US or proper ones ???

How many Ozzies does it take to hijack a thread ???


----------



## bezalel2000

Maryak  said:
			
		

> How many Ozzies does it take to hijack a thread ???




 Rof} That's worth a tin of Lollies!  


I'm sure I saw a Wallaby a few of posts back
.............you still there Pete scratch.gif


----------



## metalmad

I'm not far away guys
I made the boss for the oil pump drive gear this arvo, I parted off and will turn it around in the 4 jaw tomorrow and broach the 1/8 hole square.
I could have done the broach from the front I guess but thought it would be easier to see from the back. In the pic I have just changed from the drill chuck to a 1/4 mill bit in a ER 40 collet.
Pete
PS
Its a aussie round tin ;D


----------



## metalmad

Big Kev broke off the battery cover on my Camera the other day and its a real PITA holding it together taking pics etc
I really find it hard to understand how a two year old can be so destructive :big:
Anyway I want to siversolder the exhaust and water fittings this week so today I had a bit of a play with how I want the fittings to look. I recon once I polish up all that Stainless Steel pipe it will look OK but im not sure about the top fitting yet. Kind of feels like the Engine is giving me the finger ???
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

The lower you can get that pipe, the lower the top of your radiator (or tin can) can be as the pipe won't have to do a large arc before going downwards.

Maybe you should make the pipe, rather than coming out of the top, have it coming out the side.

Half round bit of brass would work very nicely.






Just a suggestion


John


----------



## metalmad

Great Idea John
That may fit in with all the curves much better than what I had come up with so far.
I may not have a bit of brass that big but it may look OK in alli. I will have a think on it tomorrow 
here is another idea I tossed around today.
I may just use a submerged fishtank pump in a bucket of water to run her and leave the tank off the static display.
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

No need to have a pump Pete. 
Just set up a siphon from one higher bucket or tin to a lower one, if you pump the water, it could cool it down too much.

It would work just as well using thermal convection from the bottom of a tin to the top of the same tin, hot water rising and all that.
Just like how the old car radiators used to function.


John


----------



## metalmad

Im going to go with your idea John, it seems to suit the rest of the Wallaby, Many thanks Mate 8)
I drilled holes for the head bolts to sit in, as the fitting looks so much neater with only two countersunk screws.
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Thm:


I like that Pete.

Bez


----------



## steamer

I like it too!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

It's a good arrangement. Could you do it in brass or bronze to match the other inlet and outlet fittings?

Vince


----------



## steamer

ya know thinking about it, do we need to worry about grounding out the spart plugs?

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave and Bez
 I'm pretty happy with it now and if I can get some black machinable plastic tomorrow I hope to move on to the distributor, once the electrics are done its all down hill from there ;D
Hi Vince
I did think about brass for the top fitting but felt it was too overpowering visually.
You may notice I made the brass inlet on the bottom much smaller then the exhaust fittings.
This was done to avoid the risk of the Engine becoming gaudy, I have even been thinking of remaking the inlet out of Alli as the combined breather/dipstick next to it is not only brass but also visually powerful due to decoration, design and central location.
I did try brass pipe for the water fittings but felt continuing with the Stainless pipe accents held the design together a little better.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

ummmmmmmmmm Dave
I had not thought about the Stainless splug reducers not allowing the plugs to ground.
I know Stainless is not magnetic but have no idea if its a conductor or not
u got me worried now buddy
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

Stainless steel conducts electricity. You should not have a problem.

Vince

p.s. There are stainless steel spark plugs
http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp?kw=Champion+Stainless+Steel+Marine&mfid=0


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Vince, Dave had me worried there, but thinking about it he probably meant shorting the plugs with the water fitting and I don't think that will be a problem
Pete


----------



## gbritnell

Boy it's sure coming along nicely Pete. I do like the revised head fitting. Somehow it looks like it was made for the engine.
gbritnell


----------



## vcutajar

Yes, most probably that is what Dave meant. You can always use rubber plugs/covers like they use on cars.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Thanks George ;D


----------



## metalmad

I got out the Tadometer Vince and it must be nearly 3/4 of an inch clearance and will be covered by a rubber pipe to boot.
If it jumps that gap nothing will stop it :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> Yes, most probably that is what Dave meant. You can always use rubber plugs/covers like they use on cars.
> 
> Vince



Yea that's where I was headed....as long as there is clearance...we're good.

The other head fitting that I liked was the one shown in the articles facing forward with bolt thru the center..

I'm torn...this way is far easier to make.

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

Just on spark gaps ,

If we briefly ignore some of the variables that affect it like humidity, frequency temperature, a rough approximate value for High tension ionisation of air (spark in an air gap) is about 10,000 volts per inch. Once that's happened the air can carry huge currents, Just as if you have welded a crow bar to each end. 

So if you use a car coil that delivers 20,000 volts, your 3/4" gap is looking to arc over - a lower primary voltage or some really good Spark plug boots are likely to be a must have.

I would think that if this is a problem in multi cylinder small engines, it would have been solved by a few that have gone before.

Any one?

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys
Once ive got her running ill turn off the lights and see if I have a problem 8)


----------



## metalmad

I scored some machinable plastic today for the distributor from a local member, "Ausdier" who came over for a coffee yesterday.
The guys a legend and sorted a problem Ive been having with the new mill ;D
The last owner removed the head locks and just tightend up the jibs ???
and Ive been wondering why i could not hold a dim in z ever since.
To be fair to the guy I got the mill off, he did give me the locks in a plastic bag, but told me they were "spares" when I asked what they were LOL.
 I knew no better, so its lucky i kept them ;D
Today i had a play with the plastic, in the first pic I was going to machine the internals from the round but changed my mind, faced off and cut out the rough shape in my improvised upright band saw.
It seems there are inserts for plastic -Who knew :big:
I like it .
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

That material looks very much like UPVC.

I use it for constructing things, like small machines etc, as it has virtually no wearing properties. 

It can be bolted together fairly easily, especially if the holes are helicoiled first, but nothing seems to touch it solvent wise. Normally it is welded with a special plastic welding gun with filler rods to make things like water or chemical tanks, as it seem to be impervious to most chemicals.

I have a few sheets in my garden storage, salvaged from a broken chemical tank. As I said, I used it for mechanical building of things.


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi John
That is good news!
petrol seems to make a mess of so many things, so I'm real glad to hear my distributor is not going to melt on me.
I try to keep painting to the barest minimum for the same reason as the finish on my first engine, "The Webster" was destroyed by the fuel.
I was amazed at the finish with the Tip I tried out today, I sweated blood getting a half decent finish on the rotor button but today it was just so easy 
Pete


----------



## ausdier

Glad I could help Pete.
It looks like that tip is doing the trick.

PS it took a little while to wipe up all the drool after you left today. :big:


----------



## metalmad

Hi Darren
Sorry I made a mess Buddy 
When I see something I like, I sorta lose control :big: :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Got into the shed for a couple of hours today and contined on with the distributor, in the second pic I put the rotor button in for effect.
Its a nice snug fit which makes me wonder if I should give a bit more clearance for all those 10,000 rpm runs :big:
I'm tossing up making the Cap clear perspex for a interesting effect as I'm worried about wasting the rest of the plastic which will come in handy for my next engine.
Im going to give this vise a good clean and oil this arvo as the humidity has been a shocker of late.

Pete


----------



## steamer

It's coming along Pete!

one bit at a time....your doing fine!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave
I just wish the rain would go away, I nearly had a fit when I saw the rust in the photos, The flash really shows it up I guess as looking at the mill you could barely see it.
The Vise is All clean and oiled up now, but it was a bit of a shock.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

My Camara has just about had a day I recon.
I lost all but one of the pics I took today which is a shame as I got a fair bit done.
I started by machining the Cam gear hub to suit the rotor button and then used up the last of my homemade brass barstock on the distributor conductor segments, I was a little worried about the distributor as the drawing does not tell me much, all the Dims have to be worked out from other parts etc and is a great big pain in the behind :big:
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete 

It must be right - It looks just like the whats in the drawing  

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Mate
I tell myself the same thing :big:
I did do a dummy install on the engine before I cut up the outer ring and everything seems to be lining up so fingers crossed.
Once I have the holes drilled for the conductors I'm going to machine the flange thingy for the central coil wire.
Have not decided if I will do the curve on the end or leave it as is, once I have a Cap ill look at it again.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Wot Bez Said!
 ;D
Dave


----------



## metalmad

I decided to do the curve on the end as I think the spring holder piller (that holds on the Cap) would hit the distributor as I had it. The rear exhaust pipe is done and the coil wire thingy is turned.
Its Looking better now I think but I'm wondering if my clear cap idea would look a bit tacky.
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

As usual, the main bits of an engine go together fairly quickly, it is all the hanging on bits that take the time.

Looking very good.


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi John
Thanks Mate
I think most of the hard work is done now and I just have to go back and do all the little things I could not be botherd with before :big:
With any luck ill get her done in the next month or so ;D
Pete


----------



## steamer

Looking the part Pete!

I'll be watching carefully for what happens next. ;D cause I'll have to do it too!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I was glad to hear that you have started your Wallaby Mate, but have not found the Post yet th_wwp
I really hope my thread motivates and inspires you Buddy, But i really doubt you have too much to learn from me ;D
I decided today to make the Distributor Cap out of the same material for one main reason. I have some! :big:
I have not been able to source any itsy-bitsy brass screws yet but I'm looking.
Pete


----------



## arnoldb

:bow: The Wallaby is really starting to come together well now Pete - Good going!

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Arnold
Once I have this timing cover/distributor/ oil pump assembly all buttoned up it will be all over but the shouting I recon
Pete


----------



## steamer

Thanks for the kind words Pete! :bow: I've learned plenty already from you!

What size screws are you looking for?

Dave


----------



## metalmad

HI Dave
Thanks Buddy
I just had a look at the sheets and they are countersunk 8 BA in brass.
Im gunna need at least 14 about half inch long
I will ring Minitech tomorrow but if they dont have em I will have to think about a ring in :big:
Pete 
EDIT
They have a pack of 25 for $16 bucks so im set.
I wonder how much for solid Gold :big:


----------



## steamer

Well BA I don't have, but any "American" threads I can get here. :big:

Let me know

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Thanks Arnold
> Once I have this timing cover/distributor/ oil pump assembly all buttoned up it will be all over but the shouting I recon
> Pete



Yeah I recon I know what you'll be shoutin too! 

"WHERE'S THOSE PISTONS"  :big:

 :hDe:


----------



## metalmad

Hi Mate
I heard u left town :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I Did some work on the valves today and am Happy with the cyl on the right of the pic, but both inlet and exhaust valves are leaking on the other cyl.
With just a bit of luck I should get em done tomorrow Arvo, they are not leaking badly.
Pete


----------



## tel

hmmmm .... $10.45 from Hobby Mechanics


----------



## metalmad

Thats really expensive Tel $135 for 13 screws 
Id make em before I paid that! :big:
Opps
packs of 25  :hDe:


----------



## tel

???? Where did you see that?
$10.45 for 25.


----------



## metalmad

I went to the link and typed in 13 -8BA-by 1/2
that's what came up, it was not till i went back to the fastener page it says packs of 25 
Thanks Mate ;D
Pete


----------



## tel

;D


----------



## metalmad

Im going to try this 1/8 brass welding rod out as my push rod material and see how it goes, seems very strong over the 71 mm im starting my rods at.
I may change this length and material if I decide to go for a higher compression by taking a scim off the head.
Pete
PS
Im rethinking the brass pushrods already, that did not take long --maybe stainless ;D


----------



## steamer

Nice Pic Pete!

How's the oil pump coming?

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

I'm sure ETW recommended silver steel so the ends can be hardened -  :noidea:

Found it.... see the drawing on 1st page - 19 April 1962

Bez


----------



## billmac

Small and probably useless factoid re push rods.
Vincents had stainless steel push rods; the theory was that the ends which were highly loaded would work harden. The theory seemed to work out OK. You would need to choose a type of stainless that work hardens readily if you wanted to replicate this. 
Of course, Vincent engines were a high camshaft design with relatively short push rods, not much like the Wallaby!


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave Its coming along OK now but nothing more on the oil pump so far ;D
Have you started your Wallaby build log yet?
I'm really looking forward to it, You can count on it being my favorite th_wav
Hi Bez,
The Brass was just so pretty Rof}
Hi Bill 
Thank you for that, I had forgotten that Stainless work hardens so nicely, I will try and get a Stainless welding rod tomorrow and try it out Thm:
Pete


----------



## steamer

I'm still methodizing the build process a bit....but hopefully I'll start posting this weekend....depends on the honey do list ;D

Dave


----------



## metalmad

What Method, There's a Method ??? ??? :big:
Today I turned up the spring holder for the distributor and bolted up the timing cover, this was done by turning up a firm fit bush for the crank/timing cover and then using a sharpend pin, the same size as the thru hole of the cover to make punch marks to be drilled.
Between the bush on the crank and the distributor /rotor button, the cover is held exactly where it needs to be for marking.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Went to see the quack today and turns out I'm a diabetic with a low Thyroid, guess that explanes a few things.
Anyway I decided to remake the inner cover of the oil pump and made a fixture using the PCD feature on the mill DRO.
I did have a bit of a Hiccup after doing the holes in the cover, I used a 1/8 two flute to drill the blind hole, After I was done I pushed the down button instead of the up oh: :redface2:
After indicating on the rod I left it in the cover during turning, That way you know its right if there is no wobble.
As expected the blind hole broke thru but I guess I can locktight a plug in or somethink, may not even need to do anything. Shown here with the oil punp gear boss.
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

Sorry to hear of the slight "oops" you had there, but as long as it's fixable than no worries.

From my experience of long projects, when I start seeing the light at the end of the tunnel (project completion), that's when I subconsciously want to rush things and usually the inevitable happens. So I start consciously slowing down and double and triple checking things.

Looking forward to see it running.

Vince


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Pete,
In regard to your pushrods it doesn't look like there is any adjustment on the rockers or the rods. Instead of having to remake them every time they wear or you change head gaskets or mill the head why not do like I did on the 5 cylinder radial I'm building, make the pushrods form 2 pieces and thread them together with a locknut. You can use this same method no matter what material you decide to make them from. 
gbritnell


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
No amount of checking fixes stupid :big:
I have to relieve the timing cover a bit tomorrow so the gear fits, then I'm hoping to drill the hole in the sump for the other side of the gear boss to run in.
once that's done I guess I can drill and tap the pump mounting holes.
It really is getting close now ;D

Hi George 
 The hex Bush on the rockers have an off center hole and its simply a matter of turning the adjuster and locking it up to set, and I have a Stainless steel welding rod that I will try out if I find the brass wears excessively. 
I have adjusted the rods a couple of times and they seem to work well, so we will just see how it goes I guess. Fingers crossed :big:
 Thanks Mate
Pete


----------



## steamer

Hi guys,

Looking good Pete!

George, the pivots of the rockers are bored eccentrically to adjust for tappet clearance.....at least as designed.


Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave 
 stickpoke ;D


----------



## steamer

That's what happens when you type before coffee....


----------



## metalmad

Today I turned up a short bush to stand in for the oil pump gear boss.
This bush allowed me to install the gear and inner cover exactly where it needed to be, in order to mark out and drill the sump hole to suit the longer gear boss.
Now that the assembly is installed I'm ready to drill and tap the outer holes, so far so good, everything turns over nicely and has gone together like clockwork. 
Pete


----------



## steamer

Go Pete Go!
Yes I had coffee..........

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Ive been drinking the stuff without sugar for the last two days, Tastes bloody Orable :toilet:
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Pete,

You have to have something to give you a bit of a light at the end of the tunnel, otherwise you will start to crave for it, and you may succumb to the odd choccy bar or ten.

When I was diagnosed, I just switched over to artificial sweeteners straight away (the ones I use are called Sweetex, about 1 pound for a couple of hundred doses). Once you get used to the slightly different taste, no more sugar craving. I also use the powdered stuff on my cereals in the morning. Now, I can't stand the taste of real sugar, it is just too sweet.

Even though my house is full of choccy bars and sweets, for when we have visitors, I might have one very small bar about once a fortnight, as a treat for being so good. Don't for goodness sake buy anything that says DIABETIC on it, not only does it taste like crap, it doesn't do you much good either.

BTW, nice chatting to you on Skype.


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi John
I thoroughly enjoyed our chat on Skype today and it makes me wonder why Ive left that old webcam and mike sit in the cupboard for the last 10 years and I invite others to add me.
you do know I tend to put off things don't you :hDe:
Well its set up now and much to my amazement it works :big:
I had a lazy afternoon today and only drilled and tapped the pump mounting holes then I did a mock up just for fun ;D
Pete


----------



## metalmad

A little more work on the distributor today, the only remaining things to do on the Distributor being the pin which times the rotor button which will be done when I'm timing the ignition and valves before an attempt at start up is made and the bit of thin spring steel that holds the Cap on, this is riveted on the end of the brass post that can be seen under the Distributor.
Pete
PS
I just realised the pin can be installed anywhere as the gear is on a taper :noidea:


----------



## metalmad

Had a little win today, first my wife went out and as if that was not good enough then I found where she hides her sewing needles. I found the perfect one for my mixture needle, screwed the nob almost all the way in and soldered in the needle.
I had been worried about soldering the whole thing together but with a twist from a pair of pliers all was good.
That was so successful I turned up a fuel nozzle for a good result ;D
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I turned up the dipstick today in the 3 jaw but moved to the mill to do the 6 outer holes in the lower housing, In the pic I have turned the convex cowl and am ready to part off. This part is on the plans as 11/32 (.34375) which is an obvious error, I turned mine up about .675 which is not too far off the mark I recon for the OD which should be just under the .75 of the lower housing.
I left the knurl wider then the stated .09375 as I did not want to lose the nice detail.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I decided to remake the water inlet out of alli today as the brass just did not look right.
Much happier with it now and it ecoes the outlet shape nicly.
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Pete

Still following your build progress from Paris albeit without seeing the photos. Believe it or not Photobucket and also Utube are blocked here at the hotel I am staying at!!   Can't wait to get back home and see the photos.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince 
It seems to be coming together well now and once bez pours mea set of pistons, im hoping for a burst of energy to take me over the finsh line. He can not do a pour with it raining but Its getting closer :big:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I was able to pick up a old brake Banjo fitting off a mini bike today that i may use for the oil pump connection to the sump and started fitting the ignition points to the timing cover.
I made the cover mounting holes the same spacing as the points so they bolt straight on, but I did have to make another much larger points Cam complete with oil thrower.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I started work on the oil plumbing today by cutting of the Banjo tail from the brake line and drilling the hole in the sump.
unfortunately the bolt is too short so I will have to get some brass hex and make one.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Moving along really well Pete!  :bow:

 Still trying to get my SB put back together and work has been nuts !

I'll get back on the Wallaby in a bit.

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave
This arvo i made up a longer Banjo bolt from a Stainless Steel bolt I had lying around and threaded it 1/8 gas to suit the internal right angle fitting after drilling.
I have hit a bit of a snag now as something is hitting the Sump fitting and I can not turn the engine over a complete revolution and my nice stand fowls the Banjo as well. With any luck I should be able to mill a bit off the fitting and have a play with the stand tomorrow.
I knew I should have taken the easy way out and threaded directly into the Sump, its looking better by the second . :big:
Pete


----------



## cfellows

Don't feel too bad, Pete. I run into these problems all the time. I get just about done with an engine and find out it won't turn over because the connecting rod is banging into the lower skirt of the cylinder or some foolish thing.

The engine looks real nice. The distributor and rotor are particularly interesting to me. I'll sure be interested in seeing and hearing it run.

Chuck


----------



## metalmad

Hi Chuck
Thanks for the drop in 
I think the ignition is interesting too as the points run at double the speed of the distributor and so can be timed to spark when number one makes contact and again in 90 degrees for number two.
If I have too much trouble with that right angle fitting in the sump, I think ill drill the hole in the sump bigger and put a threaded steel sleeve in with a protruding filter. That may increase the oil capacity a bit and its one less thing to go wrong.
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Pete

Finally I am back home and can now see the pictures of your progress. Really looking good.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Wellcome back Vince
I'm glad you like it Mate, it got so quiet here for a while I was beginning to think no one did :big:
Pete


----------



## Holt

metalmad  said:
			
		

> I was beginning to think no one did :big:


Don't worry, this is one of my favorite treads to follow, i just haven't commented on it before.
Being from a non-English speaking country, sometimes makes it harder to express yourself the way you want to.
While i am at it: Great work!


----------



## metalmad

Hi Holt
Thank you very much for your support Buddy
Ive been a little crook lately and A little pat on the back really helps to get me over the finish line Thm:
PETE


----------



## ozzie46

I'm here too Pete. Don't say much, but am enjoying the build a lot.

 Ron


----------



## GailInNM

Pete,
You have quite an following of readers with over 33,000 views of this thread.
As a long time fan of ETW designs I have been following every post you have made. Thank you for the detailed postings.

Gail in NM


----------



## Catminer

Watching also, with continued interest. 

Peter


----------



## ShedBoy

Looking good Pete. Been on holiday for a week. Looking forward to seeing and hearing this run. 

Brock


----------



## metalmad

Thanks for checking in guys 
The Support could not come at a better time and is very much appreciated! 

Posting as u go in a build is fraught with danger as your mistakes and little accidents are very public.
I was talking with a very respected member the other day who made the observation that he only commented on a build when he saw something extraordinary.
Well my builds are the sum total of very simple steps, nothing extraordinary at all, but I do hope the end result will be :big:

Today I bent up a old hacksaw blade and riveted it on the Distributor Cap holder.
I ground off the teeth and used the existing hole for a 1/8 rivet, I might have to paint it which I try to avoid when I can but a little wont hurt :big:
perhaps I can match the distributor colour
Pete


----------



## Blue_Rock

Hi Pete, She's looking real good.


----------



## Peterwizard

Hi mate, new to this sight and found your thread this morning and just finished reading 36 pages now. 
 :bow: What a great job you are doing! :bow:
I have one question about your spark plugs, it seems you made a sleeve after deciding on a smaller sized plug. Does the end of the spark plug still protrude into the head enough?
Looking forward to first firing!


----------



## metalmad

Hi Blue 
Thanks mate 
Hows the Webster going Buddy? 

Wellcome Peter
 Reading all 36 pages at one sitting must have taken a while :big:
When I look back at the first couple of pages I'm amazed how far its come.
From memory Buddy I made the sleeves first and custom made the plugs to suit.
ETW does give the option of pocketing the plugs to avoid oiling up due to the "efficient oiling system" but I just made them flush and if I have to, can make shorter reach plugs later.
A KP from me for the Marathon :big:
Pete


----------



## Maryak

Looking good mate. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Bob
Looks like you are just about ready to rock and roll over your way :bow:
looking forward to it, 
Pete


----------



## Blue_Rock

Hiya Pete

No progress on the Webster over the last week and to quote Bogstandard "...you will spend more time making tooling and holding fixtures than actually making the parts, that is a fact of life in our hobby" and that's sure been the case for me over the last week. I really enjoy making tooling, which is a good thing because I seem to spend a fair bit of time doing that, as well as setting up my workshop.

The mill I got around Xmas time has need tramming real bad so I spent a few hours shimming the column and have now got it cutting to within about 0.01mm over 150mm, hopefully good enough for my needs. I'm also getting together the materials to make a steel drawer mobile cabinet to go under the mill. Picked up some 40mm RHS at the recycle centre on Sunday so I've almost got what I need to get that project moving.

I've also just finished off a micrometer stand that has been half done for several months. I knocked up some soft jaws over the weekend as well as progressing some machining for a sculpture I'm working on. On top of that I made a few MT2 blanks that I will use with my 4" rotary table, one for a small chuck and another for a centreing doover.

Tonight I made a start on some 'T' nuts I need to clamp the Webster base to the rotary table to cut a recess for the shot glass fuel tank. I hope to knock over the fuel tank this weekend and maybe a bit more to boot.

I've gone back over most of your Wallaby build thread and you are doing some great work on this engine. Can't wait to hear her run.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Blue
That Webster is coming along really well, Much better then my Webster, but Id never turned on a lathe or Mill before and started building it to learn to use them.
I Wonder what you will be building in two years time, Stick at it, but dont be to hard on yourself, remember one good part at a time.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Hi Guys
Bez has had a chance to do a pour but unfortunately has had dramas with his core mixture, resulting in the core breaking down in one piston.
 I chucked up in the 4 jaw using the internal bore as my datum, once I machined it concentric I reversed it in the chuck and after clocking up, machined the chucking piece concentric with the piston.
I then reversed, reclocked and machined the piston to size, after that I cleaned up the internal bore, flush to the gudgeon boss.
There is still just a little pitting on one side of the lower piston that did not clean up but its minimal and I'm hoping it will retain oil and not be a problem.
The next step will be setting up in the dividing head 3 jaw on the mill to cross drill and machine the gudgeon boss gap.
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

You are nearly there. Are the pistons the only parts you need to do?

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
Ive been slack on this one I know but ill get there sooner or later :big:
I still need to do all the pipe work and fittings for the oil pump as well as the pistons etc, But Im sure there will be other odds and ends that need doing as i get closer.
Pete


----------



## ausdier

Hi Pete.
How does that engine of your sound ?
I mean it must be done by now heeeeeeeeeeey


----------



## metalmad

Hi Darren
How goes it Mate ;D
Had to let her sit for a while and think about how she is going :big:
At one stage I was stuffing up everything I did and there is too much work in her now to risk that.
Today I was having a play with the oil pump and hit a minor snag with the gears, which are a very tight fit into the main body. I think all that is needed is a bit of a polish to give me a little bit of clearance, as the gears install into the end plates really well.
Here is a pic without the main body 
Pete


----------



## steamer

Hey Pete!

I think a little brasso would work.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Pete

Long time no see.

Are you giving me a chance to catch up?  ;D

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I think ill make up the drive pin for the pump before going any further but its close now 
Hay Vince, your looking good Buddy :bow:
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Im trying out a new to me varnish on the base,(nitrocellulose lacquer) so I guess after half a dozen coats or so, we will see how she comes up.
Seems to be touch dry in only minutes.
Pete


----------



## ausdier

Hi Pete.
That looks like it wood be a nice sturdy base for he Wallaby. :big: :big: :big:


----------



## steamer

Hey Pete, what kind of wood is that?

Dave


----------



## ausdier

Varnished..............?   ;D :big: :big: :big:


----------



## steamer

;D

Right!  is there any other kind!? :

 :big:
Dave


----------



## lordedmond

I know its called 

Tree Wood 



I get my coat 

Stuart


----------



## metalmad

I Gotta go with Darren and Stuart on this one Dave,
Its definitely some kind of tree wood with a coat of clear over it :big:
its a hardwood plank I got from a demolisher about 10 years ago to use as a ramp for a small grinder. For all I know it may be a hundred years old, I just took a skim of the top and bottom with a fly cutter on the Mill.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Looks just like Spanish Cedar.......
 Thm:
Dave


----------



## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> Looks just like Spanish Cedar.......
> Thm:
> Dave



Sorry but I reckon it's Tasmanian Oak :-\






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

A wild stab in the dark might be red ironbark but thats just a guess Bob.
Pete


----------



## steamer

That's what I was looking for....I figure it's probably "local".....unless it came from a shipping crate :......The wood from the "Colony" is always interesting....
Dave


----------



## Maryak

Pete,

When I read "HARD" wood and looked at it; it looks just like some Tassy Oak I used to repair a park bench type garden seat. Then again,
I am no tree specialist so nice piece of wood, ironbark, oak, cedar all sound pretty good to me ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ausdier

Lopks good on that base Pete.
Must be just about ready to fire....??


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave 
Its always interesting when someone from one "colony" chats with someone from another.  

Hi Bob 
For all I know Buddy it may be Tassie oak, The colour is close and anyway, I never go on site till the tree is long gone :big:

Hi Darren
Its getting there 
Ill give u and Bez a tingle when I want to fire er up, might have a few beers and make a video ;D
Here's a close up of the 1/8 oil pump drive shaft.
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

I hope I'm in town for the big day.

I've been flying around for work so much lately I'm starting to look for the seat belt every time I sit down for a meal :big:

Looking forward to seeing it running.

Bez


----------



## steamer

;D


----------



## tel

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Sorry but I reckon it's Tasmanian Oak :-\
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



No setch an animal as Tassie Oak - it's a marketing name. The tree is usually messmate (E. obliqua) but a few other things get sold as it as well!


----------



## Maryak

IMHO that's a bit like saying there's no such thing as Western Red Cedar

Western Red Cedar
Botanical name
	Thuja plicata
Origin
	Western Red Cedar grows in North America.
Trading names
	Western Red Cedar

So...................

Tasmanian Oak
Eucalyptus delegatensis, Eucalyptus obliqua and Eucalyptus regnans.
other common name	Australian Oak/ Alpine Ash

From University of Tasmania

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys
Today I pressed on the driven gear, used a small file to broach the drive gear boss and locktighted it in.
Here's a close up, For reference the timing cover holes are 1/8 clearance and Despite what it looks like in the pic, its actually a nice sliding fit.
Pete


----------



## tel

Ah, the University of Tasmania - a fancy book larnin' school!


----------



## steamer

Oh I like that Pete!  That's one of those "fidely bits" of this design that looked like a serious PITA......and I don't mind saying have given me some apprehension.  Well done!

That would be the University of Patience... AU campus ;D

 :bow:

Dave


----------



## metalmad

That gear don't look too bad, Hay Tel!
Thanks Dave 
That oil pump was not nearly as bad as I expected really, I just followed a logical progression using bush's and in the end, it just fell into place.
I'm going to have a go with O rings for this one, as from what Ive read they seem to last forever and in the event of failure can be replaced in minutes.
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Pete

You are getting there. I usually find that the final fiddly bits of a project take the longest time to finish.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
The truth of it is mate, I just needed a rest and the step backwards helped me to see the way forward as well.
With any luck, ill buy some brass pipe for the oil lines tomorrow 
Pete


----------



## steamer

Hadn't thought of the Oring trick on this one ......will be watching that!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Got any more done on yours Dave?


----------



## steamer

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Got any more done on yours Dave?
> ]



Oh Hell no!,,,,,,but I will eventually

Dave


----------



## metalmad

I picked up a handful of nice little 1/8 domehead nuts yesterday that work really well on the exhausts ;D
Pete


----------



## steamer

Steamer want big VROOOOM!

 ;D

Dave


----------



## metalmad

It is close Dave, I recon I could give her a spin after I do the oil lines and throttle lever.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I made up the sump to oil pump fitting today.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Had a little problem today with the rocker stand. I tried to tap the grub screw thread for the rocker shaft but for some reason the alli would not hold a M3 thread. 
I drilled out the hole oversize and turned up a pair of mild steel inserts with a 1/8 thread thru the guts and just locktighted em in, having run out of everything else I just used "609". 
Anybody know what its like?
In the pic, I'm holding the shaft with a pair of screws that I may just cut down rather then source grub screws.
Forgive the focus I'm breaking in a new Camera and so far am less then impressed.
I might even have to read the manual :big:


----------



## steamer

609 is an older cylindrical bonder if memory serves me....green in color?

Good stuff provided its not too old.
Looking good Pete!



Dave


----------



## metalmad

Green it is Dave
 I was a little concerned about the application, as it says medum strength on the bottle, but I guess all its gotta do is lock up the shaft 
I am thinking at the moment, of making the last stage of the oil lines transparent at least until the pump is proven anyway.

Pete


----------



## metalmad

The current plan is to have a spring loaded button on the end of a manifold that will pop out when oil pressure exists so today I turned up the manifold.
I know it was a bit of a waste of hex but did not have any 3/8 brass bar.
I think my finsh off the lathe is improving anyway as no emry or sandpaper of any kind is used.
Pete


----------



## ProdEng

Your engine is looking very good, look forward to hearing it fire up.

Jan


----------



## metalmad

Hi Jan
Thanks Mate ;D
I'm just feeling my way at the moment. The pressure tell tale is a total unknown to me and if it does not work then I may have to rely on a clear section of pipe until I know the pump is OK. The way Ive planed it is for the pressure button on the front and the inlet from the pump at the back.
Pete


----------



## krv3000

hi well thats brill keep it up


----------



## steamer

Looks great from here Pete!  You could take the plugs out and use the tell tale as a pressure gage and just spin the engine up with pistol drill ....you should know pretty quick if you've got pressure.

That engine is looking great Pete!....Gotta get that D)#& lathe of mine done!....Wallaby's to build !

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Bob 
I recon we are on the home stretch now Mate
Hi Dave 
With any luck, Ill make up the piston and Cap for the manifold, tomorrow Arvo. Ive bored for a 1/4 inch O ring and I think I should have a spring I can use.
I'm hoping for a really nice knurl on the Cap to echo the one on the dipstick. I just soft soldered the pipes in the pic.
Pete


----------



## metalmad

I ended up grinding a old drill bit square on the end to finish of the hole and then Had all sorts of fun and games getting the thread right up to the blind hole.
Still, not a bad arvos work.
The Tell tale will protrude through this end Cap
Pete


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Pete

I wasn't able to imagine external oil lines having any aesthetic value.

But now I can - I kinda like the tube manifold. Thm:

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Bez
Thanks Mate
I think it should give just a little extra detail and provide a little peace of mind as well :big:
Pete
PS
If it works that is LOL


----------



## steamer

It'll work! If it don't, you'll sort it for sure!

Dave


----------



## Dave G

Hi Pete, your Wallaby is looking great. Can't wait to see it run, Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Steamer 
get that lathe done Mate, I'm really looking forward to reliving the Wallaby journey with you ! :bow:

Thanks for dropping by Dave
I made up the tell tale and the manifold nuts today, and Ive installed it with a spring suitable for an atmospheric intake valve which is just not up to the task and will not return the button even though there is not a lot of resistance.
In short I think the tell tale will work but needs a slightly heaver spring to be self returning.
Your Twin is just amazing buddy :bow:
 Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Pete

I am still here following your progress. Nearly there.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Vince 
I guess the next step is to make up some 1/8 dies for my tube bender.
Your looking good over there Mate :bow:
Pete


----------



## steamer

I don't see why that won't work Pete!  Simple, effective, if you put some notches on the rod you could use it as a pressure gage too!....

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396

steamer  said:
			
		

> Steamer want big VROOOOM!
> 
> ;D
> 
> Dave




Hahahah!! Where have I heard that before.

This is really coming together very nice. It won't be long now.


----------



## steamer

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> Hahahah!! Where have I heard that before.
> 
> This is really coming together very nice. It won't be long now.



 ;D

gotta light the fire ..... ;D


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I'm thinking of filing a little off the tell tale so that once its unpressurised it will be flush with the Cap, but we will see, eitherway I want to be able to see at a glance if it has oil pressure.

Hi Steve 
This morning I made up some 1/8 dies for my bender and had a play with some pipe :big:
unfortunately I ran out of hex and did not get the pump exit fitting done, in the pic the oil line is just sitting in the pump.
BTW Steve Thanks for sending me that pic of your degree wheel, it has come in handy ;D
Pete


----------



## stevehuckss396

metalmad  said:
			
		

> BTW Steve Thanks for sending me that pic of your degree wheel, it has come in handy ;D
> Pete



Any time! If you write that you need help and i can, I'll chime in! That goes for anybody at HMEM


----------



## bezalel2000

I C you're making good use of that bending tool.

Nice plumbing Dude! Thm:

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Steve
Will do ;D

Hi Mate 
I was real worried about the oil lines, but in the end they were the easiest of all to do :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Just got a couple of big pieces of Delrin like 2" square by about 3 feet long.....out of the scrap bin at work!
Perfect for the Wallaby distributor!
Time for happy dance......!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Dave 
Its time Mate 
start it already :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

I just finished putting the washing machine back together! :wall: :wall: :wall: Rof}


----------



## vcutajar

> start it already



Pete

Did I understand you correctly? You started it? Congrats.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
No, not yet buddy
 Im thinking about asking Bez and Ausdier over in two weeks time on the weekend to spin her up.
I will do first pop before then so that I know it runs  ;D
Steamer has a set of bez's Wallaby castings and I was trying to hurry him along a little :big:
The pic shows my yet to be made oil pump exit fitting.
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

OK Pete

I will keep my fingers crossed for you (not that I need to).

Vince


----------



## metalmad

I need all the help I can get Buddy :big: :big:
Pete


----------



## ausdier

Nearly there. WoooooHoooo.

Call me when ready


----------



## tel

Can we breathe out yet?


----------



## vcutajar

And I put a bottle of bubbly in the fridge for the occasion.

Hope we are not putting you under pressure Pete.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

OK Guys
 I just have to give a little happy dance myself tonight :big:
I did a job for an old customer today and remarked that he no longer had steam traction wheels around like he used to.
After we got talking, he admitted he'd sold his full size traction engine but still had his little one.
Well, he took me inside his shed and showed me what he said was a Burrell traction engine.
I don't know much about steam or what scale it is, but when he said it took him 12 years to build, I believe it! 
 :bow: :bow: :bow:
Of course we started talking about my engines as well and he just gave me the god dame biggest hunk of brass hex Ive ever seen!( 13 kg)
The guy just blew me away so badly he had to remind me, that he needed to pay me :big:
I took the money :big:
Happy Dancing ;D
The 10 ml bottle of loctite in the pic is for scale
Pete


----------



## metalmad

Hi Tel
I striped her down tonight and washed everything and will assemble to run, but may not get a whole lot done this week as I have a bit of work on at the moment.
Its a funny old world isn't it, yesterday I was crying out for a bit of brass hex :big:
well, I still need to get to my supplier for that, but someone was sure listening ;D
Hi Vince 
Keep it cold Buddy 
as soon as I can, ill get the few last bits and pieces done.
and i will do a first pop video ( if she runs that is) :big:


----------



## steamer

Hang on I'll start the popcorn and tap the keg!

 ;D

You can do it bud!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

The short block is buttoned up and I think the valves are sealing ok now but im a little worried I built her too tight, soon see I guess :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Start it !

 ;D


----------



## metalmad

I'm hoping to have her running this week Dave, as long as work permits ;D
With any luck I'll have the head on and the valve timing done tomorrow. 
I lost a valve clip when I was doing the valves too *bang*
Pete


----------



## steamer

OK ....Im making more popcorn.....

Dave


----------



## tvoght

It'll be great to see this beauty run. Another build I have been following.

--Tim


----------



## krv3000

hi can not wate any longer get it runing


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

Just a thought.

If you think it's too tight, how about running it in with an electric drill?

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Just bear with me a little longer, Dave, I'm getting there :big:
Hi Tim 
Your Upsure is SURE looking good, keep it coming.
Soon Bob, Soon ;D
I have always planed this to be a drill start engine Vince, with a one way bearing on the crank, but I wanted to make sure there was nothing mechanical wrong before I hooked a drill up to it.
Ive only got a couple of things to do now and I'll give her a spin, I do have compression but had hoped for more so I need to work out weather its valves or just needs a touch off the deck




PS
I may have to change or move this black plastic handle if it starts to melt th_confused0052


----------



## tel

If it's anything like my Kerzel the compression will go up dramatically once its run for a little while


----------



## metalmad

I do hope your going to put up a Video Buddy 
I really liked your take on that engine.
I built the Wallaby as a low compression engine from the start, but there is plenty of room to take a bit off the deck or even the head, if I get so inclined.
we will see ;D
Pete


----------



## tel

I still have some issues to sort out with it, but the ignition is going well now, after I was given a smallish buzz coil by the bloke next door. It starts quite ok, but getting a prolonged run is proving difficult - best to date is about 4 mins. Currently I'm fiddling around with carbys - at the moment the fuel vapour type, which is the best I've tried so far.


----------



## metalmad

Hope my carby works :big:


----------



## steamer

No worries Pete, I'm not going anywhere!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys
Have not had a chance to do much on the wallaby this week but made the time to use a drill to spin her up with a full sump.
If the mess is any indication, then the pump works well and I'm hoping to get the chance to connect up the pump to the tube manifold tomorrow arvo.
Once that's done Ill avago at starting her.
The pic shows why she was sidelined this week 
Pete


----------



## tel

Ah! So _that's _where my pullers got to!


----------



## metalmad

well you can av em back Mate
I had to cut the dame thing off 
right down the key hole :big:
Pete


----------



## tel

You usually have to heat 'em up to get 'em off


----------



## metalmad

Dame it I only put it on a month or so ago :redface2:


----------



## metalmad

Well We have first pop
She started tonght but as soon as I stopped the drill that was it :big:
I will have another look at her tomorrow, but at this stage have no idea why she would not run by herself.
Maybe the valve timing is a couple of teeth out or something ???
but I want to change the ignition timing first and see what happens, I set it pretty roughly so that may be out too.
Pete
click on the pic below for the first start video


----------



## vcutajar

Congrats Pete. Now I guess the fine tuning stage starts. Openned a bottle of Heineken to celebrate. I will keep the bubbly for later on.

Your assistant saw a spark somewhere.

Vince


----------



## tel

th_wav Partay time!


----------



## bezalel2000

Well done Pete :bow:

Good to hear her pop at last.

Worth a Karma from me.


Bez


----------



## ProdEng

Sounded pretty good, a few more tweaks and it will roar on its own. 

Jan


----------



## arnoldb

;D Well done Pete - those popping noises sounds _really_ promising Thm:

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## steamer

Can't see it from where I'm at, but GOODONYA Mate!

I'll watch tonight from home!

Ya did it Pete!  :bow:


Dave


----------



## ausdier

Outstanding....................... :bow:
Will have to pop over sometime soon for a cuppa.
Once it is tuned the next step is maybe a little TURBO...... :big: :big: :big:


----------



## steamer

Oh and to answer your assitants question...


Hell ya that was a spark!

 :bow: :bow: :bow:

Dave


----------



## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> Oh and to answer your assitants question...
> 
> 
> Hell ya that was a spark!
> 
> :bow: :bow: :bow:
> 
> Dave



Took the words right out of my mouth.

Fantastic Pete, :bow: :bow:

It's also bigger than I thought ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## idahoan

That's pretty cool Pete!

Congrats.

Dave


----------



## ShedBoy

Well done Pete, the first pops keep you going hey.

Brock


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Guys
I redid the valve timing today and hope to have a go at starting her tomorrow, I think its closer this time :big:
If I can not get her running tomorrow, I recon i'll pull the head and have another go at the valves.
Pete


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Pete,
If the compression feels good then you shouldn't have to redo the valves. 
gbritnell


----------



## steamer

What George said.  She seems somewhat eager to go already!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Sorry Pete if I am posting here but the subject just cropped up.

Forgive me if I am going to say something stupid (remember I am a newbie in i.c. model engines) but what does it mean when you say if compression feels good? Is there a magic number that it should be? 

And another stupid question. Can an automotive compression tester be used to see if there is any compression?

Vince


----------



## steamer

I'm sure George is a better judge of this than I, but if the will "bounce" on compression, your probably OK

I believe I read that George made a compression tester for one of his builds recently....maybe it's the radial...I'll look

No I don't believe a full size compression tester would be useful here as the internal volume of it would be very large....you would need a much smaller unit to really be useful with small cylinder I would think.

Dave

PS Didn't find it in the radial build.....Can't really remember where I saw it but it's around .....


----------



## vcutajar

OK makes sense


----------



## Dave G

Great job Pete. They always take a little tweaking but the first run is the best no matter how long it is. I've enjoyed this one alot. Thanks for sharing, Dave


----------



## gbritnell

What Dave said is how I judge compression. When the engine is turned over if a definite resistance is felt when the piston is nearing top dead center then there's usually enough compression to start the engine. If it feels like what I call 'soft' when it gets to TDC then a person should start checking for the problem. I would say 90% of the time it's leaky valves. Over the past many years on this forum it seems the primary reason for 'soft' compression is from valve leakage as opposed to piston blow-by. 
At one time I had made a miniature compression tester but with the very small displacements I don't know how accurate it was. There are some commercially made compression testers that won't even work on small engines, the lawnmower, weedeater type. The reason for this is because they don't have the check valve, that holds the compression, right at the tip of the adapter so when the engine is checked the amount of area in the hose has to be added to the volume of the cylinder thus reducing the compression pressure. 
gbritnell


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Mosey,
Why not take your comment and post it under the questions section that way this thread won't get too far off topic. 
gbritnell


----------



## Mosey

Sorry, will do.


----------



## steamer

How's the patient Pete?

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Well guys 
The saga is not over yet ;D
Bez and Aus came over today and we got a couple of short runs out of her, but we all agreed there are carby problems.
As yet I'm flying blind here, but for the lack of anything better to do, I turned up a brass bush and pressed it in the throttle body taking the the venturi from .250 down to .190.
While I was at it I lengthend the cross slots which were not allowing full throttle.
Another weak area that came up was the throttle lever which kept slipping, so maybe ill pin it or something.
All in all, my take on the situation is this.
The Cam and Valves are good but the carby not so much. :big:
With any luck, ill try again in a day or so. 
Pete


----------



## steamer

Ah Sounds like normal teething.....great!  You'll get it!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Looks like I was off the track a bit with the venturi bush, but I think I have it now. scratch.gif I had noticed that the wallaby would only fire when the mixture needle was basically falling out and today this led me to the discovery that I could only blow through the draw bar once the needle was almost taken out so after a bit of a rummage in the wife's sewing box I found a needle with a very blunt point and after soldering it in, I can now blow a little air threw it just cracked open.
 Before tyring to start her again I want to remake the starting spigot out of silver steel and harden it but I think she will run now. 
Pete


----------



## steamer

Oh man.....start the thing will ya! ;D

Must be patient...must be patient...must be patient...........!


Dave


----------



## steamer

Yo Pete!  Where you at! Dropbar get ya? ;D

How's the patient?


Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

steamer  said:
			
		

> Yo Pete! Where you at! Dropbar get ya? ;D



May be the XXXXBar got him *beer* :big:

Bez


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
I pulled her down the other day chasing a very bad oil leak and after a full days work getting her back together found i'd mistimed the valve gear again, dame it. Which as im sure you will find out soon takes a good bit of time to take apart and put it back correctly.
And to make things worse it still leaks :big:
just at the moment it all seems like hard work ;D
 Hi Bez 
not so much beer time as Tax time at the moment 
Pete


----------



## steamer

Have you got the one way crankcase breather?

Whats leaking?

Dave


----------



## tel

> May be the XXXX Bar got him *beer* big laugh



I've heard that he's a XXXX man - up til then I didn't think anyone _really _drank it!


----------



## metalmad

yup got the one way breather, I'm using some thin shim metal as the diaphragm at the momant but may go to rubber later if I need to.
I'm not sure whats leaking yet but it may be the banjo seal is not up to the task.
( A little plumbers tape on the fittings easily fixed the leaks )
One day Tel, I want to come down for the race over the Mountain and we will see then, what you keep in your fridge :big:
Pete


----------



## Maryak

tel  said:
			
		

> I've heard that he's a XXXX man - up til then I didn't think anyone _really _drank it!



Gotta be better than Bulimba Gold Top.


----------



## tel

Or that Southwark!!!!!! Do your lot still make that muck? 

My fridge? I've given some subtle hints in the past


----------



## Maryak

tel  said:
			
		

> Or that Southwark!!!!!! Do your lot still make that muck?



Gotta agree with that..............known locally as Green Death.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel

I first (and last) tasted that on 24/3/1986 and the memory is still too horribly fresh!

Sorry Pete - We now return you to your regular programme!


----------



## metalmad

No worries guys
I got some time to have another go at her today and made up a adaptor to use a RC Carby untill I get the Engine sorted a bit more.
She seemed to run ok with out any tuning but by the time I got the Camara she blew the guts of one of my spark plugs clean out, Once I realised why she was running so rough I shut her down.
I guess a redesign of how I make my spark plugs is the next step.
Just for a laugh here is the Video, if you look close you can see half of the number two plug on the bench.
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

Well done Pete sounds great. Its a runner in my book.
Brock


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Brock 
I admit its getting better every time I run her but I want to sort the plugs and carby out before I call it.
Once Ive got a few more things sorted I can tune her as well.
Pete


----------



## tel

;D Nice going mate. Is that insulator threaded into the plug body? Can't see any threads on it from here!


----------



## metalmad

Hi Tel
Thanks Buddy
I just pressed in the insulators with some locktight but its obvious now in hindsight, I need to thread them in ;D
Pete


----------



## Blogwitch

Can't get the video to work Pete, it just says 'The action that you were trying to perform has failed' when I go to the photobucket site.

Maybe you should remake the plugs so that the insert is fed from the bottom and have a stop flange on the insulator to take the pressure of firing.

John


----------



## metalmad

Hi john
I think Photobucket must be down for maintenance buddy cos it wont work for me now either, but your not missing much Mate, it was running like a hairy goat :big:
I just put it up for a bit of fun and to show why I need to remake the plugs.
I think I will try your idea out :idea:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Stick with it mate, your almost there! 

I can't get to the video either.....but if it's running on 1 cylinder ....you've got her licked!
 :bow:

UPDATE: The "bucket" is working....That engine has a exhaust note that says "Put me to work doamn it!"....and that's only on one cylinder......seems hairy goats means business downunder!

Dave


----------



## Blogwitch

Seen it now.

Good runner Pete, just a bit of a tidy up and it will be ready for your 'shelf'.


John


----------



## metalmad

Hi Dave
she was running on two before the plug blew out so its getting closer,
Thanks John
once ive made some new plugs, I want to experiment with different ignition timing settings as im starting to get the idea the Wallaby distributer acts as a spark enhancer and may retard the timing from its static set up point.
If im right she is probably firing after TDC at the moment.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Oh man the juices are flowing now!  Gotta order up the pump gears!

Dave


----------



## ozzie46

Sounds Good even on 1 Cyl. Way to go!! Thm: Thm: Thm: Thm:

Ron


----------



## vcutajar

Way to go Pete.  :bow:

Even if its on one cylinder its making a noise. At least you know what needs to be fixed. Keep it up.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Thanks guys
I got into the shed again today and did another short run, I still have not tuned her, but Ive put it up for a bit of a laugh.
During the movie one of the plug leads falls off and I tried to put it back on. Please tell me I'm not the only one who has done this :big: :big:
I think its time for coolent now so i can do some longer runs. OH and plug caps ;D
Pete


----------



## ProdEng

Years ago, I knew someone that war playing with HT leads on a car and when they got bitten their hand went into the radiator fan for good measure :big:

Engine sounds good, look forward to some more.

Jan


----------



## tel

;D Was that the little war whoop at the end? Nice going mah man - I'm still trying to get the Kerzel to go - got nearly two mins today!


----------



## Maryak

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Thanks guys.
> At the end of the movie one of the plug leads falls off and I tried to put it back on. Please tell me im not the only one who has done this :
> Pete



No, your not...................It was a dark and stormy night, just the night for a spot of crab pot raiding. On returning to the jetty, with not a crab in sight, the cry went up, "Stop the engine Bob." I duly reached in to the small half cabin to shut off the fuel, when bugger me my soaking wet oil skin sleeve hooked up to the spark plug. Needless to say, I never got near the carby as I was too busy doing the fandango in very cramped conditions. The close confines of my position were immediately eased as we passed under the jetty at a steady 6 knots and the cabin was removed from the boat. To add insult to injury as we climbed up the creek bank and came to a sudden stop we were just in time to see the cabin complete its' final swing in the breeze before heading smartly to the bottom of the creek.

I think you got off lightly ;D 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ShedBoy

I have copped numerous boots from ignition through the years and it will happen again. Motor sounds really good so far. Need to bolt/ clamp it down I reckon to stop it moving. Only takes one boot the wrong way to clamp some muscles on your hand and you throw it accross the room trying to get your hand off, ask me how I know. 

Brock


----------



## tel

Oddly enough, a boot from an ignition lead is said to be remarkably effective for snake bite.

http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/jeanbui/snake.html


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Pete

In the frenzy of the moment we all do silly things. Luckily we are here to recount them. As Brock suggested I would clamp it down to make adjustments easier.

Vince


----------



## ShedBoy

tel  said:
			
		

> Oddly enough, a boot from an ignition lead is said to be remarkably effective for snake bite.
> 
> http://www.angelfire.com/electronic/jeanbui/snake.html



That is some interesting reading. Put pictures in me head of driving from out the bush with a sparkplug wire hanging through the window. Not a nice treatment but better than nothing. Now I have got to put a magneto in my first aid kit when I go collecting firewood. :big: :big: :big:
Brock


----------



## metalmad

not a war whoop mate
that was when I picked up the HT lead :big:
I found another interesting thing this Arvo after that video, The RC carby runs much better with its aircleaner on and seems nice and responsive to the throttle.
I did a couple of nice runs after that but now need some fittings for my water tank before I start her again. 
Once I fitted the aircleaner it was nice to bring her down to idle and will finish tuning when running with coolent.
Pete


----------



## steamer

Sounds great Pete!  Congrats man!

 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Dave
I don't really want to waste any of my brass on a couple of water tank fittings so I think ill go to the markets tomorrow and see if I can pick up some brass fittings and small plug Caps.
I'm looking forward to running with coolent now as the aircleaner made a big difference.
Pete


----------



## arnoldb

Great going Pete Thm: - it looks and sounds like a champ :bow:

I couldn't help myself - Had to watch your video a couple of times Rof} - I know the feeling; as a young 'un I had to mow the lawn with a petrol powered lawnmower with a Briggs & Straton engine on it; the kill switch was just a metal plate one had to flip over to kill the spark; got me many a time :big:. 

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## metalmad

Hi Arnold
I found an old fish tank pump and hooked up my cooling system and was gratified to find, after some nice long runs there was no sign of water contanimation on the dip stick.
I don't think Ill bother tuning this carby as now the engine is running well, I'm pulling it off, but I'm pleased at how easy it starts and how well it runs and have no doubt it would run the fuel tank dry.
The block is only warm to the touch after a 5 min run but the water pump can be turned down so I'm sure that would allow the engine to achieve a higher operating temp.
I guess she is a goer ;D
Pete


----------



## ProdEng

Brilliant :bow: :bow: :bow: So rewarding after all that work.

Jan


----------



## metalmad

Thanks Jan
I have no doubt I could get better performance with lower idle and a crisper note with only a little tuning but it seems a waste of time since ill change carbys (maybe even this afternoon if I get around to it)
I am pleased with the throttle response though th_wav
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

It does throttle nicely don't it. Another great runner Pete.

Brock


----------



## metalmad

Hi Brock
Thanks Mate
I guess its almost time to find something else to build :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Outstanding job pete!:bow:

Dave


----------



## metalmad

pete/Peters????
Been into the Rum today me old Mate? ;D


----------



## steamer

No. Dam droid
sorry pete


----------



## metalmad

Rof}


----------



## bezalel2000

U Gotta love technology :



Sounds Great Pete  :bow: :bow: :bow:
 th_wav

Bez


----------



## vcutajar

Very nice Pete.  :bow: :bow: :bow:

I understand you are going back to the original carb. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
I put my Carby back on and she started right up with no problems and good throttle response.

Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Very, very nice Pete. Well done. I will open the bubbly and toast your success. I believe this is your third engine.

So what's next??

Vince


----------



## ausdier

Outstanding Pete.  :bow: :bow: :bow:
Truely a great job.

Next a turbo or a chassis to put it in.  :big: :big: :big:


----------



## Blogwitch

Nice one Pete, it took a little time to get straightened out, and doesn't it always, but a good runner at the end.

 th_wav th_wav th_wav th_wav th_wav

John


----------



## tel

Yes indeed - I'm green with envy! Or is that from the lime ice cream I had for dessert?


----------



## tvoght

It is sure nice to see that engine running! Great job.

--Tim


----------



## ozzie46

I knew you'd get it sorted Pete. Fine job and it sounds great, good throttle rsponse. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

 Ron


----------



## capin

:bow: :bow: Beautiful indeed, it makes all the unforseen headaches go away when she sounds like that. Excellent Job Pete. Brian :bow: :bow:


----------



## Maryak

I don't know about the colour but I do know about the envy ;D

Fantastic job Pete :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Dave G

Absolutely awesome Pete. It has a very nice sound to it. Nice job on the build and thank you for posting it,Dave


----------



## Brian Rupnow

Good Onya Pete. Its been a long time coming, but it sounds sweet.----Brian


----------



## metalmad

Hi guys
Thanks very much for the comments and support during the build, but the time has come to call it.
The Wallaby is everything " ETW " said it was.
A nice docile little Engine that's easy to start and will run all day.
My version has an almost tractor like feel to it that I like and have really enjoyed the journey,
Thank you again for sharing it with me. 
Pete


----------



## tel

The pleasure was all ours mate.

I'm very, very tempted to have a crack at one meself! Bez????


----------



## Catminer

Fantastic, I could watch and listen to that for hours. 
Great job. :bow:

Peter


----------



## steamer

tel  said:
			
		

> The pleasure was all ours mate.
> 
> I'm very, very tempted to have a crack at one meself! Bez????



Jump right in Tel!  You'll love it!

Dave


----------



## BCE

That's awesome, Pete. The throttle response is great!

I especially love the pool table in the palms, but I guess that's not the part I'm supposed to be looking at.


----------



## bezalel2000

tel  said:
			
		

> The pleasure was all ours mate.
> 
> I'm very, very tempted to have a crack at one meself! Bez????



I'm Sure we could sort some thing tel

This place could end up with more wallabys than the kitchen in the Ettomogah Pub ;D

matter o'fact with a couple more Gallahs, no one know the difference, I'm sure.  :big:






Bez


----------



## tel

;D No shortage of galahs around my way - I spend arf ythe day hunting 'em off the bird feeders.

If you do look like doing another batch Bez, just keep me in mind and let me know how many shekels.


----------



## bezalel2000

Sure thing tel


Bez


----------



## swilliams

Really nice build and thread Pete :bow: :bow: :bow: 
The Wallaby sure is a cool engine

Cheers
Steve


----------



## metalmad

Thanks guys
ETW made lots of really cool engines 
ummmmmmmmmmmmmmm
what to make
ummmmmmmmmmmmmmm
Pete


----------



## bearcar1

Whoa Nellie Belle!! Way to go Pete! I must have been asleep at the wheel or something, I 'missed' the last two pages of posts ??? Man, that is a sweet model you got going there and I can only imagine the ear to ear grin it gives you (or is hat a residual effect of the HT gods? ;D)
VERY nicely done, now I'm going back and review this thread from its beginnings in case I missed something else. Sweet, sweet, sweet. Thm:

BC1
Jim


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## kustomkb

Congratulations Pete!

A real beauty. Thanks for taking the time to share the progress.


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## metalmad

There are couple of little things I want to do to the Wallaby at my leasure, for instance before I run her again I want to set the rockers using feeler gauges and remove the throttle bush to compare rev rates.
The RC carby has a throttle hole of approx .216 and reved higher then my carby with a bushed hole of approx .190
I am mildly curious to see how it runs with the .250 of the original Sea lion design, but I feel the low compression and mild valve timing of the Wallaby may not need the extra air flow, she is after all a tractor not a race car. ;D
Pete


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## metalmad

Just An update guys
I have just come into the possesion of the original Carby Article for the Wallaby and may decide to build it in the future, of course that would leave me with a working Sea lion carby.
ummmm :noidea:
anybody out there got the Sea lion Articles :big: :big:
Pete


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## ozzie46

Pete; PM sent.

 Ron


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## metalmad

many thanks Ron
Ive sent you some Karma for your kindness Thm:
Pete


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## T70MkIII

Awesome job, Pete. Great to see her run.


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## ozzie46

Think nothing of it Pete. Glad I could help.

 Ron


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