# First efforts of a UK newbie



## Swesson (Sep 28, 2013)

Well after having my mini lathe for a week now I finally got to "make some chips" last night. It may not be pretty and I'm sure I can only get better but here's my first ever part. Yesterday I rescued an old aluminium trolley jack from the scrap when I'd stripped it down I was left with lots of ally plate and steel bars to play with. I thought I would start with having a go at making the crankshaft for Elmers #25 Wobbler that I intend to be my first engine. I turned down a 3/8 rod to just a little bit bigger than the 3/16 diameter that it should be, then took a little bit more off. When I measured it again it was too small, doh!! I'm not too bothered as I'm not happy with the finish of it so I'll have another go tomorrow and see if I can improve. If anyone has any advice for me I would be grateful. The main thing is I'm loving my new hobby and I'm looking forward to many a happy hour in my shed.


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## Swesson (Sep 28, 2013)




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## Lawijt (Sep 28, 2013)

Do you use a little cutting oil?


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## abby (Sep 28, 2013)

Hi Swesson , always good to hear aluminium rather than aluminum lol!.
there are several factors that govern the finish you can achieve when turning , the correct tool shape and speed are probably the most important.
Due to lack of rigidity , these variables are more important on mini and micro lathes than their larger counterparts.
Model engineering is an addictive past time and I am sure you will make rapid progress.


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## Swesson (Sep 28, 2013)

I used some wd40 as cutting oil. I used a brand new hss bit but have now ordered some with replaceable tips which i think will be better. The lathe was going about 2000rpm i think.


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## AussieJimG (Sep 29, 2013)

Welcome Swesson, as long as you are enjoying it, you will get better.

Jim


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## abby (Sep 29, 2013)

WD-40 is useless as a cutting oil for steel , although it is better than nothing with aluminium . I prefer HSS to carbide but only buy genuine Mo-Max or Mushet and use slower speeds than those recommended.
I have not used a mini-lathe , I have a Pultra , but if your lathe is brand new I suggest you check and adjust where necessary the spindle end float clearance and slide way gib screws as these are often any how when leaving Chinese manufacturers , and any play can contribute to poor surface finish.


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## canadianhorsepower (Sep 29, 2013)

Swesson;.  I turned down a 3/8 rod to just a little bit bigger than the 3/16 diameter that it should be, then took a little bit more off. When I measured it again it was too small, doh!!

*This was probably  cause by to much feed rate when cutting, a tool bit **that does not cut properly or some flexing of your part*

 If anyone has any advice for me I would be grateful. 

*On aluminium and almost everything else I loved round cutting tool about 1/8 in diameter, 7 degree of rake, and a slow feed rate give a superb finish*

*as for WD40 as coolant you would be better with water WD40 only contain 10% lubricant and has a flash point of 64 C*



The main thing is I'm loving my new hobby and I'm looking forward to many a happy hour in my shed.

*that's the most important parts*


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 29, 2013)

I think you may find that a slower spindle speed and feed rate with cutting oil will improve your finish.  I seldom use a spindle speed that's more than 300 rpm for any job, aluminum, bronze, mild steel or cast iron. 

Some folks say carbide toolbits need to run at high speeds, but really, they can run at high speeds but will do OK at slower speeds as well.  Feed rates play an important part in hobby machines that are lighter compared to their production counterparts.

I've never been disappointed by cutting at slow speeds and slow feed rates, it just takes more time.  But patience wins it!

Enjoy the hobby, it will keep getting better,

Cheers,
Phil


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## Swesson (Sep 30, 2013)

Thanks for your great advice guys I'm soaking it all up like a very dry sponge. yesterday I turned my attention to brass and had a go at making the bush that fits into the frame that the the crankshaft goes through. I have to say that I'm very pleased with the results I was expecting brass to turn a little easier than steel and it did. I first drilled a 8mm hole in some ally 1" bar that will be the frame then I turned the brass down to be a press fit into that hole then turned the other side of the bush to 10mm. I drilled a 5mm hole through it for the new crankshaft which I intend to do tonight with cutting oil at a slower speed. I will part off the piece when my new parting tool arrives.


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## Lawijt (Sep 30, 2013)

Such things I cut with a handsaw. Than facing in the lathe.
I find , sometimes the parting tool "bites" in brass pieces.

Barry


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## metalmad (Sep 30, 2013)

Hi Swesson
Keep it coming buddy 
one little bit at a time!
Pete


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## gus (Sep 30, 2013)

Swesson said:


>



Hi Swesson,

Try running at 400---500 rpm with the finest feed rate with a sharpened HSS Cutter and apply dobs of Tapmatic Tapping Oil  with small paint brush to get a smooth finish. 

Cold rolled steel gives good finish. Hot rolled steels are hard to get good finish.



Welcome to HMEM.


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## Swesson (Sep 30, 2013)

I'm not sure which steel it is I'm using. The picture of the steel part I posted was made from a rod that I salvaged from my old trolley jack I think I will try some new 1" steel bar that I have later and see if that turns better. I'm intending to use waste engine oil as cutting fluid I'll see what that's like. I'll keep you all posted.


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## gus (Sep 30, 2013)

Will be delighted with the good results. Most of us have not tried it as it is messy.

There is a new thread on cutting oils by a HMEM member. 

Good luck.


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## Swesson (Oct 2, 2013)

Well using waste oil went well, it is a bit messy but never mind. I finished the brass bush that I am delighted with and made a new crankshaft that is a lot better that the first attempt I've even made a start on the crank disc. Heres a piccy of the progress.


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## Swesson (Oct 9, 2013)

Progress so far-

Piston & Rod











Cylinder. I'm sure you'll notice the bore is off centre, whoops. I'll hopefully be able to remedy this when I build it up.




Do you like my use of alloy wheel balance weights as protectors?


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## Swesson (Nov 6, 2013)

Quick update on progress- all I have to do now is make the flywheel, air intake pipe and base. Hope it works.


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## Swesson (Nov 6, 2013)

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65672&stc=1&d=1383780006


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## gmac (Nov 6, 2013)

With steel I had trouble getting a good surface finish until I started using Tapmatic cutting fluid instead of WD40 or whatever oil; started using the tailstock center to support the work (too much overhang and deflection) and used this lathe tool to remove the last two or three thou of metal;

http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/VerticalShearBit.html

Easy to make and works great on steels of unknown heritage....

Cheers  Garry


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## gus (Nov 6, 2013)

gmac said:


> With steel I had trouble getting a good surface finish until I started using Tapmatic cutting fluid instead of WD40 or whatever oil; started using the tailstock center to support the work (too much overhang and deflection) and used this lathe tool to remove the last two or three thou of metal;
> 
> http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/VerticalShearBit.html
> 
> ...



Hi Garry,

Welcome to the Tapmatic Club. I use both 'all metals except Alum'' and 'Alum only' with good results and finishing. Parting with a sharp cutter and dobs of Tapmatic has not given me any tool breakages. I use parting blades from LMS.

Bought China equivalent oil for steel cutting. Results quite good. Tapmatic Oil
is very expensive. I use a small brush to dob tool and job.


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## Swesson (Nov 7, 2013)

Is this the stuff?  https://www.cromwell.co.uk/LPS7271550A


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## Lawijt (Nov 7, 2013)

Yoy did a great work already. For cutting brass or aluminium I use WD40.
If you want too build a other steam engine , you can try the engine from Steve's workshop. It is more work & more turning , but mine looks good & runs really good.
Here a link for the plans:

http://www.steves-workshop.co.uk/steammodels/simpleoscil/simpleoscil.htm

Barry


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## don-tucker (Nov 7, 2013)

That's a nice one Barry ,I wouldn't mind making one myself
Don


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## don-tucker (Nov 11, 2013)

Had to do it Barry made one over the weekend,it's in finished projects ,a good choice for someone starting out. Don


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 12, 2013)

Nice looking engine - well done 

Just from personal experience, Tapmatic is blinding on ally, but I don't rate it for steel at all. For me Rocol does an infinitely better job. And brass? Bone dry with zero rake inserts, or if you take care and go gently, positive rake carbide.


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## Swesson (Nov 12, 2013)

Thanks for the positive feedback guys. Barry I think that one is going to be my next project I've got my new mill coming this week so I will be able to use that a bit as well. I'm getting really confused about cutting oil Rivergypsy you're not helping, what's Rocol??? 
I hope to have the wobbler finished by the end of the week I hope it runs but if it doesn't I'll just carry on with lessons learnt and try again.


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 12, 2013)

Hi,

This is the stuff :- http://www.rocol.com/products/search/type:brand/brand:rtd and I'd go for the following...

RTD liquid - turning/drilling/tapping on mild / stainless / bronze / etc
RTD Cleancut - the same for ally
RTD compound - tapping on anything nasty, it really is good stuff.


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## Swesson (Nov 12, 2013)

Thanks RG I've got some on the way from Amazon £25. 

Rigged up air to the wobbler today and to my shear joy it ran. It needed a spin with my fingers to get it going and it only runs for a few seconds before stopping but it runs, i'm more than delighted.


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## Cogsy (Nov 12, 2013)

Congrats on getting it to run. I'm sure with a little tweaking you'll improve it's run time. I'm reasonably sure (99.9%) that wobblers aren't self starting so you will need to give it a flick to get it to go. Enjoy the moment, you'll never forget the feeling of your first runner!


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## Swesson (Nov 20, 2013)

So here it is running, I'm quite pleased. I think my next project will be the one suggested by Barry. I want to concentrate a little more on the finish next time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KyNwazLj_E


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## danstir (Nov 20, 2013)

Congratulations!!!  excellent engine.


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## gus (Nov 20, 2013)

Hi Swesson,
Very well crafted and runs well.
Must be very happy with your first running engine.
We share your joy.


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## bazmak (Nov 20, 2013)

Congratulations and glad to see your enjoying yourself.Its a pleasure to hear from newbies
especially when things go wrong as they do,and you bounce back in undaunted
O the the joys of youth.Keep up with your never say die i can only improve attitude
Regards barry


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## Swesson (Nov 21, 2013)

bazmak said:


> Congratulations and glad to see your enjoying yourself.Its a pleasure to hear from newbies
> especially when things go wrong as they do,and you bounce back in undaunted
> O the the joys of youth.Keep up with your never say die i can only improve attitude
> Regards barry



"Youth" thanks Barry you've made my day I'm 42. I know that's not really old but I haven't be referred to in that way for quite a while.
Thanks everyone for their positive comments.


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 21, 2013)

Nice one - well done!


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## motoseeya (Dec 10, 2013)

I don't know if youll like it but I use 1 part cutting oil and 2 parts wd40 and does a nice job for me and I like wd40 on my machines it is a water displacement and keeps my machines from rusting my shed is not heated.


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