# Demon V8  (multiplied  1.5)



## Foketry (Sep 24, 2019)

I bought the drawings over 2 years ago, waiting for my retirement and waiting to learn and improve my engine model construction technique.
Now, after building Hovell V4 and Holt 75, I try to make a more challenging project, Demon V8  x 1.5
I decided to multiply all the dimensions 1.5 times to have a piston size close to 24/25 mm, about an inch, so as not to have parts too small to mill and turn.


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## Foketry (Sep 24, 2019)




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## Foketry (Sep 24, 2019)

Note the wrong position of a hole, I'll have to close it


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## stevehuckss396 (Sep 24, 2019)

at 1.5 thats going to be pretty big. i'll be keeping an eye out.


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## johnmcc69 (Sep 24, 2019)

Good stuff!
I'll be following along.

 John


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## Endamur (Sep 24, 2019)

Me too... looking forward to your build progress.  This is an engine that I am also planning to build in due course.... the 1.5x version will be very interesting.  I have already modeled it in Fusion and started the CAM process.   I have met Steve Huck a few times at the various shows and he has been super helpful answering any questions that I have had.  Good luck with the build.


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## sition (Sep 24, 2019)

Good stuff!


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## Foketry (Sep 25, 2019)

stevehuckss396 said:


> at 1.5 thats going to be pretty big. i'll be keeping an eye out.



Steve , Thanks for the great project, I'm not very knowledgeable about American engines, is this Demon  derived from a Chevrolet engine ?

I followed all the posts about this engine on this forum, I studied all the published photos, now I think I have the skills to build it


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## Foketry (Sep 25, 2019)




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## Foketry (Sep 25, 2019)

A change from the original design, I made 2 seats for Viton oring for each cylinder to avoid water loss, one at the top of the cylinder, one at the bottom


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## stevehuckss396 (Sep 25, 2019)

It shares the Chevy arrangement and firing order. Mostly because I know it by memory and that makes working on it easier for me.


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## Foketry (Sep 27, 2019)

oring locations


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## Foketry (Sep 27, 2019)

cylinder liners , all built in steel except one in cast iron to check if there are differences in compression 
What do you think about cast iron or steel  for liners ??


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## Foketry (Oct 1, 2019)

installed OR in position


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## Foketry (Oct 1, 2019)

milling of the head-supporting surface


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## Foketry (Oct 1, 2019)

lapping of cylinder liners, once positioned in their seat , to ensure cylindricity and roundness


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## stevehuckss396 (Oct 1, 2019)

Outstanding!


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## e.picler (Oct 3, 2019)

Hi Foketry!
Great work, congratulations! You are progressing fast.

Could you post some pictures of your lapping tool and also how you used it? 

Thanks,
Edi


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## Foketry (Oct 4, 2019)

e.picler said:


> Hi Foketry!
> Great work, congratulations! You are progressing fast.
> 
> Could you post some pictures of your lapping tool and also how you used it?
> ...



I purchased this barrel laps  in Ebay USA, only the brass body, I built the two steel parts myself.


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## Foketry (Oct 4, 2019)

I built this too, it works

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=81230


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## e.picler (Oct 4, 2019)

Hi Foketry!
Thank you for the Photos. That is the same process I'm using on my PeeWee V4 but the hole is getting about 0,02mm tapered. I remember someone here saying that this type of lapping causes the hole tapered.

Thanks,
Edi


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## stevehuckss396 (Oct 5, 2019)

Both the Demon and the Peewee are designed so they can be lapped or honed as a through hole. The block can be honed from the top and flipped to be honed from the bottom. By flipping the block back and fourth the taper can be taken out.


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## Foketry (Oct 5, 2019)

e.picler said:


> Hi Foketry!
> Thank you for the Photos. That is the same process I'm using on my PeeWee V4 but the hole is getting about 0,02mm tapered. I remember someone here saying that this type of lapping causes the hole tapered.
> 
> Thanks,
> Edi


I used this lap for Holt 75, Howell V4 and Demon V8 and the max tapered shape was 0.005 mm
I use 2 laps , one for roughing, one for finishing
In this case I have turning, grinding  and lapped the cylinder liners before assembly, but once pressed inside the engine block,   they have become deformed 0,01-0,03 mm in the 2 contact areas of the engine block. ( bottom and top )
It was necessary to lap again.
This is a lesson learned, next time I will insert the cylinder liners without interference fit , but with little backslash


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## petertha (Oct 5, 2019)

Hi Foketry. 
- how did you go about grinding the liner bores? You mean like a tool post grinder in the lathe?
- on the lapping side, did you take much material off or just t correct the max 0.03mm eccentric shape?
- what kind of lapping grit on the roughing tool & finishing tool?


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## Foketry (Oct 6, 2019)

petertha said:


> Hi Foketry.
> - how did you go about grinding the liner bores? You mean like a tool post grinder in the lathe?
> - on the lapping side, did you take much material off or just t correct the max 0.03mm eccentric shape?
> - what kind of lapping grit on the roughing tool & finishing tool?



yes, I built a post grinder tool with 2 electric motors  24 volts for model aircraft , for internal holes and external shaft ( photo is with a grinding wheel for shaft , I can also mount a small grinding wheel for holes)











I normally leave 0.02 mm before lapping , max 0.03
I use silicon carbide, grit 400 for roughing, grit 600 for finishing , I don't use diamond paste because I read on this forum that a diamond is forever .....


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## retailer (Oct 7, 2019)

I see that you have used a grinder on the crank - makes perfect sense to me.  Earlier this year I started a small V8 using my own plans but had to put it aside to get on with more pressing jobs, once I return to it your comments on the cylinder bore lapping will come in handy.


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## Foketry (Oct 10, 2019)

First stage processing of the  rods by flat endmill 4 mm






I glued 3 + 1 aluminum plate with epoxy glue on a wooden surface , these were faced and milled , unglued  by heat, glued on another wood plane  already leveled and faced on the opposite side.
After  they were reamed  in the 2 holes.


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## Foketry (Oct 15, 2019)

rods and bronze bearings


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## Foketry (Oct 19, 2019)




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## stevehuckss396 (Oct 19, 2019)

looking good.


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## Foketry (Oct 24, 2019)

Crank  and camshaft tunnel
To make these 2 holes I modified 2 reamers extending them with an extension so that the reamer was guided through each hole on the next one.
This is to ensure alignment
Initially I drilled with a long drill , then enlarged the hole with a long end mill to make the hole straight, then enlarged with a drill and finally bored with a long special reamer.


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## Foketry (Oct 24, 2019)




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## Foketry (Oct 24, 2019)




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## Foketry (Oct 24, 2019)




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## Foketry (Oct 24, 2019)




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## stevehuckss396 (Oct 24, 2019)

That is coming along nicely. There is another fellow that started a 1.5 build but it never was finished. I met another fellow at the Zanesville show that has a 2X in running condition. These over scale builds are cool as heck!


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## Foketry (Oct 24, 2019)

stevehuckss396 said:


> That is coming along nicely. There is another fellow that started a 1.5 build but it never was finished. I met another fellow at the Zanesville show that has a 2X in running condition. These over scale builds are cool as heck!



I ask myself how it is possible  to start this project and not complete it, the first pops give a great satisfaction, they make you happy, I work on this project at least 10 hours a day to reach the goal as soon as possible.
I saw this engine roaring on YouTube  , your model and that of Doc, mine too must rumble ......


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## Foketry (Oct 30, 2019)

cover milling


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## Foketry (Nov 10, 2019)

Bell Housing and bell hosing adapter
SKF bearing and miter gear for distributor


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## Foketry (Nov 10, 2019)

Distributor Body , milling after turning


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 10, 2019)

Looking at all the parts brings back good memories. At the larger scale of your build have you ever thought of trying to adapt an RC motor for electric start?


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## awake (Nov 10, 2019)

Beautiful work! I look forward to hearing the rumble as well!


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## doc1955 (Nov 10, 2019)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Looking at all the parts brings back good memories.



Steve I second that feeling!

Foketry I have been setting on the side following along things are looking nice!


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## Michael Rosenbauer (Nov 11, 2019)

Hello Foketry, that looks amazing I like your style.
Do you have a blueprint for your V8, or are you design it yourself?
If so chapeau


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## Foketry (Nov 11, 2019)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Looking at all the parts brings back good memories. At the larger scale of your build have you ever thought of trying to adapt an RC motor for electric start?



I think of using this electric motor for  scooter, hidden in the wooden base, transmission by small chain and free wheel, or to simplify , with a Bosch screwdriver


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## Foketry (Nov 12, 2019)

Michael Rosenbauer said:


> Hello Foketry, that looks amazing I like your style.
> Do you have a blueprint for your V8, or are you design it yourself?
> If so chapeau



I bought the drawings by Steve H , he is the magician of this project


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## Foketry (Nov 17, 2019)

the rocker arms , base profile milling


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## Foketry (Nov 17, 2019)

rocker arms , external profile , left and right


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## Foketry (Nov 17, 2019)




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## Foketry (Nov 17, 2019)

rocker arms glued on a wood base previously milled flat and parallel, to remove excess aluminum and avoid damaging the tool


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## Foketry (Nov 17, 2019)

The jig to make the holes,  8 left , 8 right


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## Foketry (Nov 17, 2019)




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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 17, 2019)

Excellent work. Don't forget there is a relief cut on the bottom to clear the spring retainer. Now would be a good time to do that as well as counter bore for the screw. Great idea to glue down for machining.


Saw your next post, never mind.


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## Foketry (Nov 17, 2019)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Excellent work. Don't forget there is a relief cut on the bottom to clear the spring retainer. Now would be a good time to do that as well as counter bore for the screw. Great idea to glue down for machining.
> 
> 
> Saw your next post, never mind.



yes, through the same  jig   mounted horizontally , I also did spring impression and screw counterbore   , but I didn't take pictures
before doing this jig, I tried to make holes by fixing the rocker in the vice, but I only made scraps, the holes were off-center 
I had to completely redo 3/4 pieces, I only had 2 spare parts.
my mistake for inexperience


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## Foketry (Nov 21, 2019)

After finishing the rocker arms, here are the other components of the rockers


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## Foketry (Nov 21, 2019)

hardening with oil , steel 115 Cr V 3


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## Foketry (Nov 25, 2019)

This week I received the raw material  for crankshaft


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## Foketry (Nov 25, 2019)

After doing the 4 centers at 90 degrees + the central center, I roughed out the whole drive shaft


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## Foketry (Nov 25, 2019)

after roughing, the final grinding to ensure coaxiality


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## Foketry (Nov 25, 2019)

the final check on lathe


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## Foketry (Nov 25, 2019)

The final check on motor block


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## awake (Nov 25, 2019)

Very impressive work!

I'd love to know more about how you use the block with the five holes in picture 8898. I assume it lets you do the offsets for the various cranks, but I'm not clear on how you would line things up - unless there are matching centers in the opposite end of the crank shaft?


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 25, 2019)

Very nice!  That grinder looks like it would come in handy.


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## Foketry (Nov 25, 2019)

awake said:


> Very impressive work!
> 
> I'd love to know more about how you use the block with the five holes in picture 8898. I assume it lets you do the offsets for the various cranks, but I'm not clear on how you would line things up - unless there are matching centers in the opposite end of the crank shaft?



yes, as you think , on the opposite side there are the same matching centers for cranks
The screw you see in the photo is to drag the crankshaft through the lathe chuck


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## xpylonracer (Nov 26, 2019)

Is that wood packing between the crankwebs ?


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## Foketry (Nov 26, 2019)

xpylonracer said:


> Is that wood packing between the crankwebs ?



yes, it is hardwood glued with epoxy


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## awake (Nov 26, 2019)

Foketry said:


> yes, as you think , on the opposite side there are the same matching centers for cranks
> The screw you see in the photo is to drag the crankshaft through the lathe chuck


Understood. Thanks!


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## Foketry (Dec 2, 2019)

The valves, made from a stainless steel bar


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## Foketry (Dec 2, 2019)

the steel chips produced by  one valve


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## Foketry (Dec 2, 2019)

all the valves +3


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## awake (Dec 2, 2019)

Foketry said:


> all the valves +1
> 
> View attachment 112609


It's hard to express just how impressive that picture is.

It might seem simple enough. I can imagine some <clueless> person saying, "it's just 17 little rod thingies, right?" Oh, yeah - "just" 17 *identical* pieces, representing hours upon hours upon hours of exacting work, that's all!

I'm feeling daunted at the prospect of making 2 valves for my first IC engine attempt. I see this picture and I'm in awe!


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## Michael Rosenbauer (Dec 3, 2019)

Why do you make 19 valves? 
But as usual at your pictures, very very nice. What do you thing you are finished and running the V8.
Is it a x-mas gift for somebody?


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## Foketry (Dec 3, 2019)

awake said:


> It's hard to express just how impressive that picture is.
> 
> It might seem simple enough. I can imagine some <clueless> person saying, "it's just 17 little rod thingies, right?" Oh, yeah - "just" 17 *identical* pieces, representing hours upon hours upon hours of exacting work, that's all!
> 
> I'm feeling daunted at the prospect of making 2 valves for my first IC engine attempt. I see this picture and I'm in awe!



I worked one day to make the first 2 valves, scraps, I found the right tool with a very small tip radius, many small  turning steps of 0,2 -0,3 mm to avoid bending the valve , in total about 4 days to get 19 valves


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## Foketry (Dec 3, 2019)

Michael Rosenbauer said:


> Why do you make 19 valves?
> But as usual at your pictures, very very nice. What do you thing you are finished and running the V8.
> Is it a x-mas gift for somebody?



better to have some spare parts, when I assemble the valves in the seats and do the vacuum test, if there are any leaks, I replace them
If all goes well, I hope to hear the first bursts at the end of January / February


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## Foketry (Dec 8, 2019)

The rocker stud


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## Foketry (Dec 8, 2019)

The pistons, hole drilling


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## Foketry (Dec 8, 2019)

piston , internal milling


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## Foketry (Dec 8, 2019)

the piston assembled with small screw to fix the wrist pin


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## Michael Rosenbauer (Dec 8, 2019)

Hey Foketry it looks like you make the piston cylindric!
Didn´t you make them a little conical 0.04mm smaler on top regarding the expansion by heating up during running?


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## Foketry (Dec 8, 2019)

Michael Rosenbauer said:


> Hey Foketry it looks like you make the piston cylindric!
> Didn´t you make them a little conical 0.04mm smaler on top regarding the expansion by heating up during running?



My pistons have no taper or diameter reduction on top.
These model engines have no hardened parts, camshafts, crankshafts, valve seats etc, so they can't run continuously for hours and hours, just a few minutes each time.
This means that they do not reach high temperatures, in my opinion the conical or smaller piston on top is not necessary.
Also the piston drawing , designed by Steve Huck does not require smaller on top.
In any case reduced on top it can be done, it is a technical perfection absolutely necessary for larger engines


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## Michael Rosenbauer (Dec 9, 2019)

got it!


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## bobden72 (Dec 9, 2019)

Foketry said:


> My pistons have no taper or diameter reduction on top.
> These model engines have no hardened parts, camshafts, crankshafts, valve seats etc, so they can't run continuously for hours and hours, just a few minutes each time.
> This means that they do not reach high temperatures, in my opinion the conical or smaller piston on top is not necessary.
> Also the piston drawing , designed by Steve Huck does not require smaller on top.
> In any case reduced on top it can be done, it is a technical perfection absolutely necessary for larger engines



Quite agree with you in all aspects.


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## retailer (Dec 9, 2019)

You are making great progress can't wait to hear it run make sure you post a video if you can.


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## Foketry (Dec 14, 2019)

retailer said:


> You are making great progress can't wait to hear it run make sure you post a video if you can.



I hope to hear the first signs of life by January / February


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## Foketry (Dec 14, 2019)

The piston rings


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## Foketry (Dec 14, 2019)

lapped piston ring


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## Foketry (Dec 14, 2019)

The piston ring before and after lapping


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## Foketry (Dec 14, 2019)

my self-made lappig machine from brake disc


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## Foketry (Dec 21, 2019)

The head
machining of combustion chambers, the compression ratio will be 8: 1


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## Foketry (Dec 21, 2019)

Exhaust and intake holes


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## Foketry (Dec 21, 2019)

OR housing for  passage of water from block to  head and then to the radiator


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## Michael Rosenbauer (Dec 22, 2019)

https://www.ebay.de/itm/55529-2-Ach...688489?hash=item544b7c4629:g:0LgAAOxyepRRvzFx
Hey Foketry this is the tilt vice.
If you have no other choice to get it, we find a solution. 
Depence on shipping costs to Italy.


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## petertha (Dec 22, 2019)

I don't have a tilting vise but have seen Groz in a store that didn't look too bad. They are from India I think.
http://www.groz-tools.com/index.cfm?md=Content&sd=Product&ProductID=114

Like Asian tools, the quality can vary a lot for what looks generically like the same thing in a picture.


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## Foketry (Dec 22, 2019)

Michael Rosenbauer said:


> https://www.ebay.de/itm/55529-2-Ach...688489?hash=item544b7c4629:g:0LgAAOxyepRRvzFx
> Hey Foketry this is the tilt vice.
> If you have no other choice to get it, we find a solution.
> Depence on shipping costs to Italy.



ok thanks for the information, but today I bought this one in England
https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=tilting vise&PN=100mm-Tilting-Machine-Vice-904.html#SID=356
I hope the quality is satisfactory, I think it's made in China


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## Foketry (Dec 22, 2019)

petertha said:


> I don't have a tilting vise but have seen Groz in a store that didn't look too bad. They are from India I think.
> http://www.groz-tools.com/index.cfm?md=Content&sd=Product&ProductID=114
> 
> Like Asian tools, the quality can vary a lot for what looks generically like the same thing in a picture.



I know India well , I have been  many times for business before my  retirement 
I still have Indian friends but the costs and transport times are too high from India to Italy
Tanks


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## Hobbyists (Dec 25, 2019)

Foketry said:


> my self-made lappig machine from brake disc
> View attachment 112813
> View attachment 112814
> View attachment 112815
> View attachment 112816


very nice, can you elaborate a bit more about this machine Thanks


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## Foketry (Dec 26, 2019)

Hobbyists said:


> very nice, can you elaborate a bit more about this machine Thanks



It is a very simple machine  built with a used brake disc from my car , if you have one or more specific questions about It,  I will be happy to answer


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## Foketry (Dec 27, 2019)

the exhaust gaskets from a sheet of Teflon 0.3 mm thick


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## Foketry (Dec 27, 2019)

The header flange from brass sheet 1.5 mm glued on the wood


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## Foketry (Dec 30, 2019)

the first pump built, I modified the design, replacing the gears with an impeller

Attempt failed, the pump does not have sufficient flow


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## Foketry (Dec 30, 2019)

second water pump built following the original design, with brass gears
to build the gears I went to a small hobby workshop of a friend of mine


















the ball bearings and shaft  are made of stainless steel


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## bluejets (Dec 31, 2019)

If the slot in the #100 pic is your delivery then that is more than likely why it doesn't work.

If one looks at the water pump internal build from say, Gerry Howell, one will see the geometry necessary for it to work properly.

On the page below, there are a series of photos down the left side.
If you go down to just past the "cam followers" you will see a plan view of the inside and the geometry I refer to.
https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/HowellV4.htm


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## Foketry (Jan 1, 2020)

Thanks for  advice, I know Jerry Howell's pump, I built it for   V4  engine, but for Demon V8   I wanted to respect the external shapes of the pump, as per the original design
Without cutwater it didn't work properly and I went back to the project with gears instead of impeller.
in the photos my water pump for V4 with impeller and cutwater


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## Foketry (Jan 8, 2020)

It is time to grind the valves, after having chamfered  the seats with the tool drawn by George Britnell , steel 115CrV3  hardened on water


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## Foketry (Jan 8, 2020)




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## Foketry (Jan 8, 2020)

vacuum pump to cheek leaks


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## petertha (Jan 8, 2020)

Foketry, can you tell me a bit more about your valve assembly?
- cage/seat in the head is made from bronze? What alloy?
- about how wide is the contact area on the
- when you did the lapping , did you observe any lapping wear on valve, cage seat or both?


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## awake (Jan 9, 2020)

I'd like to know more about that valve lapping tool attachment. What does it do, exactly - is it a speed reducer, or ??


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## doc1955 (Jan 9, 2020)

If it is like the manual one it goes forward about a half turn tthen back about a quarter turn. Kind of like a washing machine. I have a few manual crank ones.


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## awake (Jan 10, 2020)

Interesting - I take it the back-and-forth motion is better for lapping than a continuous circular motion?


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## Foketry (Jan 10, 2020)

petertha said:


> Foketry, can you tell me a bit more about your valve assembly?
> - cage/seat in the head is made from bronze? What alloy?
> - about how wide is the contact area on the
> - when you did the lapping , did you observe any lapping wear on valve, cage seat or both?



for the seats I use a common bronze, CuSn12 (B14 old Italian denomination )

the contact area is very small, max 0.1 mm, I have tried on some cage  seats to leave a sharp edge, it is easier to obtain a leak-free  seal , in the next engines I will not make any chamfer
without chamfer I noticed that a small manual lapping of one minute with silicon carbide 600 and one minute with grade 1000 is sufficient

I build the valves with stainless steel, after lapping a mark remains on the valve cone and the bronze cage seat becomes opaque


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## Foketry (Jan 10, 2020)

awake said:


> Interesting - I take it the back-and-forth motion is better for lapping than a continuous circular motion?



a  circular motion is incorrect , the valve leaks , if you look at the valve with the microscope there are circular signs that let air pass through, instead with a small rotation back and forth you only notice small broken lines


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## Foketry (Jan 10, 2020)

doc1955 said:


> If it is like the manual one it goes forward about a half turn tthen back about a quarter turn. Kind of like a washing machine. I have a few manual crank ones.



Exactly, it's like you say


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## Foketry (Jan 10, 2020)

doc1955 said:


> If it is like the manual one it goes forward about a half turn tthen back about a quarter turn. Kind of like a washing machine. I have a few manual crank ones.



Doc, about this engine I have seen all your movies on Youtube several times, for the valve timing I will repeat your method
thank you


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## kuhncw (Jan 10, 2020)

I understand your valve lapping attachment powered by the drill, but what is the tool with the wooden handle used for?

Chuck


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## Foketry (Jan 11, 2020)

kuhncw said:


> I understand your valve lapping attachment powered by the drill, but what is the tool with the wooden handle used for?
> 
> Chuck



The wooden tool is the classic manual lapping tool. I glue the head of the valve to the instrument through a small silicone tube to give flexibility.
The gray plastic tool is to be used with the drill, it rotates back and forth through an internal mechanism. This also connected to the valve head via a silicone hose
I have tried both systems ,both work well


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## kuhncw (Jan 11, 2020)

Thanks.  I was wondering how you were attaching the valves to the lapping tools.

Chuck


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## Foketry (Jan 15, 2020)

the distributor cap , Delrin material


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## Foketry (Jan 15, 2020)

the central electrode, graphite material from an electric motor brush , whit spring
The brush was originally square, I turned it round on the lathe


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## awake (Jan 16, 2020)

Great idea on using the motor brush. Would there by any advantages to making all the electrodes the same way? (Asking out of ignorance, not trying to suggest that there is!)


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## Foketry (Jan 16, 2020)

awake said:


> Great idea on using the motor brush. Would there by any advantages to making all the electrodes the same way? (Asking out of ignorance, not trying to suggest that there is!)



using the same system for all electrodes is not possible and not necessary
it is not possible because the rotor electrode mills the graphite, it is like a small blade, not necessary because it must not be a sliding contact, only the central one must crawl


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## Peter Twissell (Jan 17, 2020)

The other electrodes are not contacts, the rotor arm conductor doesn't touch them, just comes close enough for the spark to jump the gap.


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## awake (Jan 17, 2020)

Peter Twissell said:


> The other electrodes are not contacts, the rotor arm conductor doesn't touch them, just comes close enough for the spark to jump the gap.



That's interesting. Looking back to the days when I used to tune up my old Dodge Dart, I can remember having to assess whether the electrodes were too burnt and needed to be replaced.

Which raises a question - as best I recall, the electrodes in that old Dart were brass. Wouldn't that burn up rather quickly from the jumping spark?


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## Peter Twissell (Jan 17, 2020)

The spark is high voltage, but low current, so the heating effect at the relatively large surface of the electrode is small.
By contrast, arcing at the low voltage breaker points carries several amps and will cause burning if it is not surpressed by a capacitor.


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## awake (Jan 18, 2020)

Ah! That makes sense.


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## Foketry (Jan 20, 2020)

Intake manifold, not very easy to make the connection holes


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## Foketry (Jan 26, 2020)

Valve cover from round rod, before anodizing and after blue anodizing


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## Foketry (Jan 26, 2020)

I tried to anodize at home, with caustic soda and sulfuric acid, I followed the whole procedure seen on Youtube, but with poor results, aluminum does not take  color.
I did various experiments with different amperage and voltage, different types of aluminum, no results 

I brought all the pieces to be anodized by a artisan who in 2 days did a good job


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## Foketry (Feb 1, 2020)

Radiator from  computer, it was necessary to modify the connections for water inlet and outlet and remove an internal bulkhead


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## Foketry (Feb 1, 2020)

the radiator before painting


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## bobden72 (Feb 2, 2020)

Great stuff


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## Foketry (Feb 6, 2020)

Finally, after some adjustments during the assembly of all the parts, the moment of camshaft timing has arrived.


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## petertha (Feb 7, 2020)

Wow you work fast. Fantastic!
So what is the adjustment you 'lock in' in the engine? Looks like you achieve TDC on piston, match valve position from cam shaft lobe. Then does that mean the camshaft gear gets frozen in that position?
Then what about distributor timing, how does that come into play?


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 7, 2020)

This is the procedure I used and it fired up and ran good enough to start fine tuning.


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## Foketry (Feb 7, 2020)

petertha said:


> Wow you work fast. Fantastic!
> So what is the adjustment you 'lock in' in the engine? Looks like you achieve TDC on piston, match valve position from cam shaft lobe. Then does that mean the camshaft gear gets frozen in that position?
> Then what about distributor timing, how does that come into play?



I followed the procedure indicated by the construction plans provided by Steven H, written in the next post no. 134
in addition to this I checked the timing of each cylinder to check the correct construction of the camshaft (I have not published the photos of the camshaft construction because I have deleted them by mistake)

I also followed this video made by DOC


once the timing of the valves is ok I will make the setting of the distributor but first I have to assemble the heads and check the compression of each cylinder and do a little running in on the lathe, with the spindle that rotates the crankshaft


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## Foketry (Feb 10, 2020)

Compression test
This is the cylinder with the highest compression
the worst is 4.5 bar the average is 5 bar
I built 7 cast iron cylinders and 1 steel cylinder, there are no differences between them
The compression test was done at around 1000 rpm


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## Foketry (Feb 10, 2020)




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## Peter Twissell (Feb 10, 2020)

I wonder what the volume of that gauge and the adaptor is. I expect your compression is higher than indicated.
One way to prevent the gauge volume from altering your compression reading is to pre-fill the gauge and adaptor with oil, making its volume incompressible.
Nice work on the engine!
Re. Iron Vs steel liners, I would expect similar performance as machined. Any difference may show up after a few hours running.


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## Foketry (Feb 10, 2020)

This tool is built with a pressure gauge and a non-return valve from a bicycle wheel


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## Foketry (Feb 10, 2020)

Peter Twissell said:


> I wonder what the volume of that gauge and the adaptor is. I expect your compression is higher than indicated.
> One way to prevent the gauge volume from altering your compression reading is to pre-fill the gauge and adaptor with oil, making its volume incompressible.
> Nice work on the engine!
> Re. Iron Vs steel liners, I would expect similar performance as machined. Any difference may show up after a few hours running.



yes, I agree, my pressure control gauge also adds the volume of the tube and the pressure gauge to the volume of the combustion chamber, so the value read on the graduated scale is not correct.
 I have always used this for all my small engines and this is my reference. I know that a pressure value below 2.5 bar is not good.
 I will follow your advice and  will fill the tube with oil to eliminate the air inside and surely the pressure will increase.


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## Foketry (Feb 15, 2020)

Distributor tuning and strobe ignition time


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## Foketry (Feb 15, 2020)

first attempt with temporary carburetor and new high voltage cables


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## cumminspower665 (Feb 15, 2020)

Ive never built one but in the process of this now. Have to say watching the progress of your build has been a pleasure keep it up. Looks amazing.


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## Foketry (Feb 18, 2020)

The complete engine


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## awake (Feb 18, 2020)

Gorgeous!


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## petertha (Feb 18, 2020)

WOW. Nothing left to do but hear it run!


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## karlw144 (Feb 19, 2020)

Waiting to hear that beauty barking!


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## Foketry (Feb 20, 2020)

And finally  the video of the engine running   
Thank you Steve for this fantastic project


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## neubert1975 (Feb 20, 2020)

brilliant work, sounds awesome


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## T Mihelich (Feb 20, 2020)

Time for the Supercharger.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 20, 2020)

Nice job and welcome to the family.


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## kuhncw (Feb 20, 2020)

Very nicely done.  Congratulations.

Chuck


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## retailer (Feb 20, 2020)

Excellent work and done so quickly - congrats.


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## petertha (Feb 20, 2020)

Fantastic! Enjoyed your build & the video of it running.


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## Smokey Joe (Feb 20, 2020)

Awesome. Sounds very healthy.


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## bruski (Feb 21, 2020)

Great job and sounds so nice it made my eyes water a little.

bruski


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## bobden72 (Feb 21, 2020)

That is awesome


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## e.picler (Feb 22, 2020)

Congratulations Foketry!
Extraordinary work. It is really nice looking. The sound and the idle are impressive!

Edi


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## Michael Rosenbauer (Feb 23, 2020)

Congrats, to an outstanding and amazing work.
It looks and sounds great. 
Is this enginge sometimes a engine for a RC - car made by you!
Take care and see you on next project.


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## Peter Twissell (Feb 23, 2020)

Lovely job!
As above, do you have an application in mind for your engine?
Perhaps a hot rod? Or a boat?


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## Foketry (Feb 24, 2020)

Peter Twissell said:


> Lovely job!
> As above, do you have an application in mind for your engine?
> Perhaps a hot rod? Or a boat?



No ,  I'm not going to install this engine on any car or boat model, I'm already thinking about a new engine: Bugatti T50 , 8 cylinders in line
I am collecting all the documentation available to design this engine, for now I have only found some photos

thank you all for your compliments and congratulations, I am truly satisfied with your attention to my work

Foketry


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## michelko (Feb 25, 2020)

Hi Foketry,
loved to follow your build processes this and the hold build.

I searched a Long time for Information About the Bugatti T50 engine.
This is no easy Task and i found nearly Nothing.
I owned a Pocher plastic model of this engine and took this for the outer proportions and meassurements.
From that i constructet the interior parts.

If you are not in hurry, i am working on a Plan set for my Bugatti engine.

You can see some parts of the build  process in this links:

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6848.msg194106.html#msg194106

or

http://www.cncecke.de/forum/showthr...eines-ETTORE-BUGATTI-Motors&highlight=bugatti

Regards Michael


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## Foketry (Feb 25, 2020)

michelko said:


> Hi Foketry,
> loved to follow your build processes this and the hold build.
> 
> I searched a Long time for Information About the Bugatti T50 engine.
> ...



hello Michael, I know your work published on the site you mentioned, during my holidays on the sea I carefully read all your posts regarding Bugatti T 50
I liked your engine and that's why I asked you for some drawings and you sent them to me on October 7th via email 
I also purchased in Germany the  Pochet model to get a complete view of the Bugatti T50 engine , now with your drawings and with  plastic model I'm designing the complete 3D engine.
Michael , you have my email address and I have yours, if you want I would like to ask you some advice regarding the design and construction
Kind Regards Iules


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## e.picler (Feb 25, 2020)

Hi Michael!
Congratulations on your project!
It is amazing work and the engine sounds amazing too. Did you get the engine running on the 8 cylinders?
Are you going to make the plans available for purchasing?

Edi


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## michelko (Feb 26, 2020)

Hi Edi,
i am reworking the valves because i found some serious leaks. I am sure the poor running was caused by the Valve Problems not the plugs.
Yes to the plans. I am working on a set that will be availlable sometimes.

Regards Michael


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## michelko (Feb 26, 2020)

Hi Foketry,
you are welcome to ask any Question. Sorry i forgot the former conversation, brain is a Little bit rusty ;-)

Regards Michael


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## Michael Rosenbauer (Mar 3, 2020)

Hey Foketry, you need to go to MULHOUSE German France border. There is the biggest Bugatti Museum. (Schlumpf brothers)
Show them what you did, and say what you want may you can grab some drawings. Or you can take your own measurements there.

Its worth to try


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## michelko (Mar 3, 2020)

Michael Rosenbauer said:


> Hey Foketry, you need to go to MULHOUSE German France border. There is the biggest Bugatti Museum. (Schlumpf brothers)
> Show them what you did, and say what you want may you can grab some drawings. Or you can take your own measurements there.
> 
> Its worth to try



Maybe you have more luck. I tried to contact the Museum by mail, but no one ever answered.


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## daz59 (May 10, 2020)

Nice looking engine, you have done a great job.

I have the plans and have drawn them up double size in cad.
The original engine is 25cc, yours being about 85cc, mine will end up 200cc.

Did you increase the water gallery and carb by 1.5 or by the increase in capacity ie 3.4 times the area for your engine and 8 times for my engine? 
The plans have the water holes at 0.125 or 3.8mm, I would need 1/2 or 12.7mm to allow for the same volume per cc as the plans.

Thanks you.


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## Peter Twissell (May 10, 2020)

You won't need the waterway bores to be 8 x diameter to get 8 x flow.
Flow in long bores is largely laminar, so it is limited by the viscosity of the fluid and its 'drag' against the wall of the bore. The viscosity of water doesn't scale. 
1/4" holes will give 8 x flowrate of 1/8" holes at the same pressure.
The carb is a different matter...


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## daz59 (May 10, 2020)

Hi,

Thanks for the reply.
8 times the area rather than 8 times the diameter is what I was suggesting.

Understood regarding the frictional losses with the smaller hole, so with 8 times the cc I may only need something like 6 times the area to give me 8 times the flow.


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## Peter Twissell (May 10, 2020)

In theory, you should only need 4 times the area to get 8 times the flow.
In practise, the flow through the channels is not likely to be the limiting factor. Heat transfer from the combustion chamber through the head to the channels is likely to be more significant.
Greatest efficiency is achieved with high fluid velocity through multiple small section channels, but in small engines intended mostly for display running, as opposed to hard work, cooling is not so much of an issue.


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## rlo1 (Oct 7, 2021)

Question, This project looks really interesting.  What besides wall thickness and fastener sizing do I need to watch out for when scaling up?


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