# Paddle Engine



## don-tucker (Aug 28, 2011)

This is my new project,I have decided to make the E T Westbury Paddle Engine again as my brother has laid claim to the one we made together 45 years ago and I like it so much.





I came across a drawing error early on and wondered if someone could verify a dimension for me, the dim.on the centre line from the crank centre to the cylinder aperture on my drg is 3 1/16" and 2 1/16" and I believe the 2 1/16" should be 2 11/16".
I have worked from the left hand end.
Don


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## GRAYHIL (Aug 28, 2011)

Lots of info here, not read it all but your ? was answered somwhere in all the pages.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=8592.0


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## kvom (Aug 28, 2011)

WTG Don. Yes, the drawing error is as you describe.


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## metalmad (Aug 28, 2011)

Great start Don 
Pete
PS If the last one u made is any indication, it will be a post well worth following.


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## mzetati (Sep 2, 2011)

don-tucker  said:
			
		

> I came across a drawing error early on and wondered if someone could verify a dimension for me, the dim.on the centre line from the crank centre to the cylinder aperture on my drg is 3 1/16" and 2 1/16" and I believe the 2 1/16" should be 2 11/16".
> Don



Thank You for pointing out the reason why my scribed lines on the metal plates never matched the plans, however carefully I re-traced them.
Marcello


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## don-tucker (Sep 2, 2011)

Progress to date




Makes me feel a bit inadequate after following the Small V8 from the start,what a superb job,
Don


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## don-tucker (Sep 6, 2011)

A bit more done,doesn't look much but i had to make the bearings from 1 1/4" sq alum bronze ,a lot of work.
Come on Kvom get back to the paddle engine or I will overtake you without a CNC ;D
Don


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## don-tucker (Sep 17, 2011)

Get another photo of the progress to date




I have had to make the centre eccentric longer to cater for my mistake in making the crank shaft to short,these things were sent to try us ???
I have to sorce some 60mm rd cast iron now to make the cylinders.
Don


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## ronkh (Sep 17, 2011)

Lovely machining you are producing there Don, following with great interest.

Kind regards,

Ron.


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## don-tucker (Sep 17, 2011)

Thanks Ron,much appreciated
Don


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## Herbiev (Sep 18, 2011)

Great looking engine so far. I'm following with great interest. It looks like the finished product will have some serious "grunt". Please keep the pictures coming :bow:


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## don-tucker (Sep 22, 2011)

Thought you paddlers would be intersted in this
http://paddlesteamers.awardspace.com/paddle steamer engines.htm
Came across it by accident
Don


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## Dan Rowe (Sep 22, 2011)

Don,
Thanks for the link. I rode one of the Lake Geneva steamers one way and was dissapointed to be on a diesel for the return trip. It was nice to learn one of them was restored back to steam.

I will be watching this with interest as they are really interesting engines.

Dan


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## ref1ection (Sep 22, 2011)

I'm also watching yours take shape while trying to find the time to build my own. It's looking every bit as nice as the last one you built.

Ray


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## don-tucker (Sep 29, 2011)

Thanks ray,here is the latest to keek you up to date




Crossheads,slide valves,big ends.and a few links,I am just making what takes my fancy ,no set order which I mauy regret lateron
Don


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## Maryak (Sep 29, 2011)

Don,

Very nice parts. This will be a beauty. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## danstir (Sep 29, 2011)

Really nice engine, I am enjoying the pictures in your build log as well.


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## ref1ection (Sep 29, 2011)

I really doubt you'll regret any of those parts from the looks of them. I noticed that this time you have gone with crossheads that match the drawings as opposed to the ones you used on your last engine. Is there any particular reason for this or as you said 'whatever takes my fancy'?

Ray


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## don-tucker (Sep 29, 2011)

The thing is Ray ,my brother said that these crossheads are not marine and it was sacrilege,He said he never forgave Mr Westbury,and being only18 at the time I had no say in the matter.So now I am in charge I thought I would have a change anyway the con rods are easier to make. ;D
Don


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## ref1ection (Sep 29, 2011)

Don, looks good either way and this way your brother gets his his way and you yours. ;D
I was just curious.

Ray


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## don-tucker (Nov 23, 2011)

My cast iron came yesterday





Thats for 2 cylinders 2 steam chests and the cyl covers.
Started machining today and guess what,the plastic high low gear snapped on the minni mill ,I know,I know i should have gone to belt drive.New gear coming tomorrow.
I have a new Combi boiler coming tomorrow as well,so its that first I'm afraid.
Don


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## don-tucker (May 10, 2012)

Progressing very slowly




Have to make the front covers next,a tricky job methinks.


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## kvom (May 10, 2012)

Since working on the Loco, I'm thinking that a busing and o-ring is an easier solution than a packing gland.

I do plan to finish mine when the loco is done; I'll remake the frames in steel rather than use the aluminum ones.

Keep up the good work.


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## Blogwitch (May 10, 2012)

Kevin,

The only problem with o-rings for glands is that they don't support or lubricate the piston shaft under load, which a correctly adjusted gland packing does.

It only takes a few extra hours to do it right, and fit graphite string glands, also there is no racing in this game, so time shouldn't come into it.


John


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## don-tucker (May 10, 2012)

Yes It will be glands and packing for me.
Come on Kevin,I thought we had a race on this one,CNC v Manual


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## ronkh (May 10, 2012)

Good to see you back on track Don.

Kind regards,

Ron.


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## don-tucker (May 10, 2012)

thanks Ron,I have been doing all sorts of things in between and also to cold out the garage,but I hope to get cracking now except for 2 weeks off for a hol in Zante.
Don


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## don-tucker (Jun 27, 2012)

Work to date, not much I know seems to be going dead slow to stop,I'll have to open the valve a bit more




I'll get the guide bar brackets fixed on next and that will be the cylinders finished then start bolting them to the frames,a big moment.
Don


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## kno3 (Jun 27, 2012)

Slow, but nice work!


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## steamer (Jun 27, 2012)

That was a whole bunch of "whittlin" ! :big:


That looks great Don! :bow: :bow:

Yes do open the valve a bit! ;D

Dave


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## ozzie46 (Jun 27, 2012)

Looking great. 

  Ron


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## don-tucker (Jun 27, 2012)

Thanks guys ,I'll have to see what i can do
Don


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## Maryak (Jun 27, 2012)

Nice work Don :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Allen (Jun 29, 2012)

A single cylinder walking beam sidewheel setup with a watertube boiler mounted amidship in a big old aluminum canoe has been one of those on again/off again pipe dreams of mine for about 20 years now.... I even had some stuff collected for it before the big D (sadly, all gone to pay bills)....
Maybe someday I'll hit the lotto, hopefully before I'm too old to enjoy it.


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## don-tucker (Jul 6, 2012)

Bit more to show








I feel it's coming together now
Don


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## kvom (Jul 6, 2012)

:bow:


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## don-tucker (Jul 24, 2012)

This is my latest progress,con rods made and fitted,so next we start the motion work,still a lot to do.The trouble is I have to much  else  much on my plate.




Still it's coming on
Don


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## rhitee93 (Jul 25, 2012)

Wow, I just caught up with this build.  This is some really nice work!  I think you have added another engine to the must build list


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## don-tucker (Jul 25, 2012)

Thanks Brian,its a pleasure to make this engine,I started making one 50 yeas ago and my brother finished it and kept it.So making one for myself.
Don


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## kvom (Jul 25, 2012)

I started this engine over a year ago and was about 2/3 done when I put it aside to start on the locomotive build.  Now that I've had more machining experience I know quite a few parts I'll redo when I get back to it.

If the engine is just for display and not for powering a boat, the featherin paddle wheels could be omitted; these look to be the hardest pieces to make. The same goes for the water pump; I'd probably opt for an injector.


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## don-tucker (Aug 3, 2012)

Yet more progress ,I must be on a bonus










Those eccentric arms need a lot of hours,so I thought they warrent another pic,still more work to do on them,the end plates and finishing off.Had enough for today so Ill have a look at the Olympics.
Don


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## rhitee93 (Aug 3, 2012)

Very nice


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## ronkh (Aug 3, 2012)

Hi Don.

Still with you mate!

Kind regards,

Ron.


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## don-tucker (Aug 3, 2012)

Thanks Lads,nice to know I'm not on my own.
Don


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## Herbiev (Aug 4, 2012)

You're definately on a bonus. The workmanship is superb


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## don-tucker (Aug 26, 2012)

Just to show I have been doing a bit




A bit of fitting now and it can be set up and a trial run ,with a bit of luck a runner,the pipe work I shall take my time on then the pump,I dont think i shall make the wheels,of course the reversing gear,I was forgetting that(old age)
I would like to add drain cocks but they ate hell of a price


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## SilverSanJuan (Aug 26, 2012)

Don, this is a beautiful engine.  I've always loved these.  You're doing a beautiful job.  Will this be going in a boat?

Todd


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## don-tucker (Aug 26, 2012)

No Todd,no boat for this one,I would have nowhere to keep it,I would hate to think how long it would be,as i said I don't think I will make the paddle wheels
Thanks for the kind remarks
Don


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## SilverSanJuan (Aug 26, 2012)

Well, it's a work of art none the less.  Would probably be a shame to hide it inside the hull anyway. 

Todd


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## 110samec (Aug 28, 2012)

It's a lovely looking engine. It always amazes me how people can get from rough stock materials to something beautifully made like that  You should make the rest of the boat to put it in!


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## don-tucker (Aug 28, 2012)

If i made the paddle boat I would have to build a shed to put it in,I wonder how long it would be?
My mind is thinking towards a 3 1/2" rob Roy at the moment as the next project,but I wlll have to think hard about it as I find close work getting a strain.
Don


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## don-tucker (Sep 24, 2012)

I have to admit to a c--k up,started timming the valves and wondered why there was not enough movement in the valve to uncover the ports fully  at each end ,so checked the sheave drawing,it asked for 5/32" of throw,and I did the stupid thing of halving that so i only have 5/32 of movement instead of 5/16",silly silly boy I am.
So it will mean remaking the sheaves,unless you guys can think of another way out ,I shall make the reversing lever next as a bit of light relief.
Don


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## kvom (Sep 24, 2012)

Remaking those is pretty straightforward, so no big disaster, although there ARE 4 to redo.  Taking the crank setup apart to re-install is irritating too.


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## Xlmyford (Sep 25, 2012)

Following with great interest.Great build Don.
One question:
Seems to me,or it looks like you riveted the more "solid parts" ,which carry the
studs, to the sheet metal.Is it correct or are these parts soldered or brazed and the rivets are dummies?
Great visual appearance anyway.

Cheers,Ralph


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## Runner (Sep 25, 2012)

Hi Don,

your proposal to build a 3.5" Rob Roy should be a bit more of the same. I see a lot of commonality between your paddle engine and the running chassis of Rob Roy. Your only concern is the length of time to complete the project. It took me 2 years to build but at your rate of progress it should be much less, but if age is a factor then take it a bit slower. I have a chair in the shed to sit down occassionally between stints. 

Bad luck about the throw of the eccentrics being only half to that required. This is not a serious suggestion but you did ask. To make the throw twice that provided by the eccentrics is to have a pivot arm between the eccentrics and the slide valve which is twice the length between the pivot and the slide valve to that between the pivot and the eccentrics. But, that is more trouble than remaking the eccentrics. Good luck with stripping down the crankshaft, I hope it goes back together the same as before. Just checked your crankshaft design it's in two halves so no problemmo.

Brian


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## don-tucker (Sep 25, 2012)

Xlmyford said:


> Following with great interested.Great build Don.
> One question:
> Seems to me,or it looks like you riveted the more "solid parts" ,which carry the
> studs, to the sheet metal.Is it correct or are these parts soldered or brazed and the rivets are dummies?
> ...


Hi Ralph,The frame is riveted together as brazing or silver soldering would cause all sorts of distortion,I only ever resort to heat when absolutly necessary.
Don


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## don-tucker (Sep 25, 2012)

Brian,yes age is a factor allright,I also have a chair in the garage,to sit down before I fall down,I have been thinking about the sheaves in bed last night and thought I could put a plug in the old holes and redrill and ream the new hole alongside it,it would come into the old hole a bit but if I put the grub screw through the plug it wont go anywhere,I hate remaking stuff.
Don


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## kvom (Sep 25, 2012)

That "fix" sounds like more work than just remaking them.


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## don-tucker (Sep 25, 2012)

well for a start I have no more material,and its only pushing a press fit plug in the hole then a jig to redrill and ream the new holes,which I would need anyway,
Don


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## don-tucker (Sep 27, 2012)

All back to square one now,please take no notice of the flywheel,just a tempory affair to be able to turn it over,I have to decide on the reversing lever now,I had something in mind like the sketch,a simple lever from the link shaft to a slotted upright part fixed to the base on a pivot.
I am not to fussed on the loco type wheel and screw.
Don


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## kvom (Sep 27, 2012)

I assume that by "link shaft" you mean the weigh shaft?  The slotted rod gives a way to lock the shaft in position, so a reasonable solution.  You could also do a loco-style quadrant with slots.


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## don-tucker (Sep 27, 2012)

You are right,I did mean the weigh shaft,I just couldn't think of the name at the time.I did think of a quadrant  but didn't fancy making the latch,but thanks for your thoughts
Don


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## don-tucker (Oct 1, 2012)

This is my version of the reversing lever.





not the best ,but simple and it works.
Don


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## Runner (Oct 1, 2012)

Hi Don,

yes it's simple and works, however will it interfere with the steam connections to the cylinders? I made a similar compromise on my twin marine engine but looking at it for some decided that the original worm gear screw setup was the only way to go. But if it works for you then that's all that matters.

Great thread, watching with interest.

Brian


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## don-tucker (Oct 2, 2012)

Yes Brian the pipe work will take a bit of thinking about,I shall try different routes using soft solder wire,and hope to come up with something presentable
Don


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## SilverSanJuan (Oct 2, 2012)

don-tucker said:


> This is my version of the reversing lever.
> not the best ,but simple and it works.
> Don



Don, often the "best" solutions are the simplest. 

Todd


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## don-tucker (Oct 5, 2012)

It's a runner.




Here is my pipe work.
I have a tip for any one setting valves ,make sure that the inlet flange gasket has a hole in the centre  ,Back and fore to the garage to test ,and I couldn't get it right,till I discovered I had forgot to cut the centre hole in one of the inlet gaskets,after cutting the hole she ran like a sowing machine ,forewards and backwards.I'll try to video it later.
I shall make the water pump next and make a base for it ,I have bought a cutting board from Asda ready,no expense spared .
Don


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## kvom (Oct 5, 2012)

very nice!


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## ozzie46 (Oct 5, 2012)

Looks great. Thm:Thm:Thm: Will be waiting for the vid. 
  I have the plans for this also and will be refering to your thread when I get around to building it.


 Ron


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## SilverSanJuan (Oct 11, 2012)

Super job!  Looking forward to seeing it in motion.

Todd


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## don-tucker (Oct 11, 2012)

Thanks Tod & Ron,I want to get the pump finished and the engine bolted to a base first then I will have a go at the video.
Don


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## MuellerNick (Oct 12, 2012)

Hey Don!
That finish really looks great! What did you do to get that dark color? Or is it just the camera (or Photoshop ).


Nick


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## don-tucker (Oct 12, 2012)

Glad you like it,Nick, but I'm afraid it is just the lighting,it is all natural colours,
Don


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## don-tucker (Oct 18, 2012)

At last all finished.












Ill have a go at the vidio a bit later,Whats next? that is the question ??????
Don


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## don-tucker (Oct 18, 2012)

The Video,not good but it proves it does go round.Taken with my iphone,I should have taken it the other way round.



Hope you like it
Don


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## SilverSanJuan (Oct 18, 2012)

Tis' a thing of beauty Don.   Runs as good as she looks to boot.  Great Job!!

Todd


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## ozzie46 (Oct 18, 2012)

All right!!  Very good.

   Ron


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## don-tucker (Oct 18, 2012)

Paddle Engine part two  



A bit better.
Don


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## SilverSanJuan (Oct 18, 2012)

I could watch that for hours.  She really runs smooth.

Todd


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## Runner (Oct 18, 2012)

Hi Don,

great model and pictures too. The pump I assume is to provide feed water to the boiler, which is necessary in a paddle engine installed in a model boat? Have you made an alternative use for it since it appears to have pipework connected to it?

I recommend Rob Roy as your next project, you should complete the running chassis within 3 months.

Brian


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## bret4 (Oct 18, 2012)

Wonderful! Great to watch everything come to life.


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## kvom (Oct 18, 2012)

Let's see it pump some water!


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## don-tucker (Oct 19, 2012)

Thanks for your comments guys.Brian,complete running chassis of Robroy in 3 months, I don't think so,12 months maybe.I do like Robroy so it's a maybe
Don


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## don-tucker (Oct 19, 2012)

kvom said:


> Let's see it pump some water!


What do you want, blood :wall:


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