# Proposal to design a "First Build" engine



## black85vette

EDIT: while there are plans, photos and instructions in this post, it is much easier to go to the downloads sections and download the .zip folder titled "E-Z Engine build"  The US and Metric drawings are both in the folder and a document with instructions and photos to help with the build. 

*******************************************************************************


Don't know if this will work or if it has been done already, but it may worth a shot. My proposal is to create a very basic easy to build engine. Perhaps something more than an oscillating engine since there are several plans out there for that. Maybe more like an air operated single that someone starting out could do without a lot of experience or tooling. There are "Team Builds" on this forum how about we do a team design and see where it goes?

My thought is to first agree on design goals / objectives by vote and then start brainstorming on a configuration that will be suited to the project and finally do a design / build of the project.

Any interest?

Hopefully it does not turn out like this:


----------



## zeeprogrammer

The programmer had it right.


----------



## Deanofid

How about something like this. I built a few of these ten or so years ago. At the time, I had machining experience, but little engine experience. It's fairly easy to build. No fancy setups needed. Basic turning and milling, and can be done on almost any sized machine.
The flywheel is 2 1/2" in diameter, to give you a sense of its size. If I remember, it has a 1/2" bore, 3/4" stroke. Single acting.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hqMqJeeznY[/ame]


I don't have prints for it. It was kind of a "seat of the pants" engine. I'll take it apart and make measurements and rough sketches if someone else wants to draw it up proper so a new builder can read it.

Dean


----------



## chuck foster

that runs real nice Thm:

chuck


----------



## black85vette

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I don't have prints for it. It was kind of a "seat of the pants" engine. I'll take it apart and make measurements and rough sketches if someone else wants to draw it up proper so a new builder can read it.
> Dean



I think that would also make a good project, but for this exercise I would like to design something from the ground up with input from the forum.

"Seat of the pants" may be part of the criteria rather than tight specs so it can be tweaked as needed. My question to the group is "What considerations are important for a simple build?"  For example: assume the builder only has a small lathe and no milling machine.


----------



## black85vette

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> The programmer had it right.



I know all about programmers; as long as you document something a program does, it is a feature and not a bug. :big:


----------



## Deanofid

black85vette  said:
			
		

> "Seat of the pants" may be part of the criteria rather than tight specs so it can be tweaked as needed.



By "seat of the pants", I only meant that I didn't start with any prints, not that it doesn't have to be built to a certain spec. If a person wants to build an engine that runs decent without needing a gob of air or steam, they are going to have to learn to build to a print and/or to (at least) reasonable specs sometime. It seems sensible to start them out with a spec to shoot for.



> My question to the group is "What considerations are important for a simple build?"



I'd say a minimum of parts in easy machining materials and no overly complicated setups/geometry. 

Little or no soldering. 

Any threading needed should be achievable with common sized taps and dies. 

Critical bores should be able to be made using reamers rather than boring bars.

Should be small to keep material expense down. First time builders make a bit more scrap than some of us who have been at it a bit longer. Ruining smaller pieces keeps the cost down.

It's been done before, but maybe a pipe fitting engine?
Another one that takes few parts is a poppet head engine, or a rotary valve engine. 



> For example: assume the builder only has a small lathe and no milling machine.



Can we assume he has a milling attachment? Does he have a drill press?
If not, the build just got a little more complicated, but at least they'll have plenty of help here. Instructions will need to include how to setup drilling and milling processes on the cross slide and face plate.

Dean


----------



## va4ngo

I would like to see the following requirements for a first build
Use of Lathe, Drill press and hand file and vice as the only tools needed and of course measuring tools
Minimal number of components
Very little machining i.e use bar stock where possible.
No milling or a very small amount which could incorporate say a slot using the drill press.
Requirement to hand file one part only.
No Silver Solder
Encourage use of clamps for holding down work stressing safety reasons.
A diverse range of materials used to allow a feel for different machining qualities.
Use steel and brass together as one unit somewhere for aesthetics.
Encourage the builder to do some calculations from the drawing.
A requirement to make one simple tool such as a reamer from stock to ream say the cylinder.
Making a press fit item as part of the build.
Incorporate a secret deliberate error in plans.
All drawings to be on one page.
Give pictures of alternative flywheel designs if one is to be used.
Make it available in Imperial and Metric.
Then make it a Newbie competition and add as project of the month for that design

Cheers
Phil 


Cheers
Phil


----------



## Deanofid

Melbourne_Phil  said:
			
		

> I would like to see the following requirements for a first build...
> 
> Incorporate a secret deliberate error in plans.



You're kidding, right? A person new to engine building will make enough mistakes of their own without setting them up to fail.




> Make it available in Imperial and Metric.



Okay, now I know you're kidding..


Dean


----------



## black85vette

Great. Dean and Phil you both had a bunch of ideas I had not thought of. Lets leave this open over the weekend and see who else has ideas then we will try to have a vote to combine and prioritize the criteria. 

Phil, you are in charge of the error in the plans. :big:


----------



## black85vette

To mill or not to mill. Seems to be one of the first issues we should agree on. Pick one of the following:

This project should:

1. Require no milling at all.
2. Require at least a milling attachment for the lathe.
3. Require some sort of small mill.

Remember the target is a new builder and this project is something a little more than a basic oscillating engine. Post your thoughts then we will move on to other issues.


----------



## bearcar1

You know I think Dean is right. Why in Zuess' backside, would you want to throw a fastball slider at a newbie by sinking the ship before it sets sail? Think bout the very first time that you began machining an engine. Remember? Remember all of the questions and anxiety you felt about the possibility of making a mistake? (still do?) I think that the emphasis should be placed more on what the beginner most likely has on hand as far as tooling goes. A drill press would be good but not absolutely required and a mill might be out of reach as far as available funds are concerned for someone just starting out. A lathe, that would *almost* have to be a requirement though. The use of the different metal files is a very good one to specify however as would be the size, It should be of adequate size so that the fasteners would be common sizes, 4-40 or larger but not so large that it takes two men and a boy to transport. I'm thinking max. 3" flywheel. Metric or Imperial, either one would be fine, but not necessarily both. Standard sizes, tooling that is COMMON to a beginner, and simple. Those would be my choices for a "first build" engine. 

BC1
Jim


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Having just started this hobby and having gone through a couple of kits...I'd like to offer the following...

Keep in mind...I came in with the following goals:

1: Build an engine.
2: Develop my skills (I started with none).
3: Develop a tool set (I started with none).
4: Repeat the above in order of 2...3...1.

Early success was the most important criteria. Otherwise, history has shown I would move on to something else. (As it turns out...success is subject to interpretation...I'm still here. ;D)

One of the most maddening things I experienced while getting to the current point I'm at is discovering the need for 'yet another tool'. No doubt this was due in part to my kid days when you bought a plastic model kit, some glue, some paint, a knife, and brush...and you were set.

I think a lathe is what most people would associate with model machining.

So...

a: Try to keep it to just a lathe. Not even a drill press.
b: Keep the number of tools to the absolute minimum.
c: Include in the kit a list of tools needed. (In one place!!!)
d: A complete list of materials...sources if possible.

I know that 'b' can be in conflict with the difficulty level. That needs to be addressed in the design as well. Success is paramount. The design should be as forgiving as possible.

No custom tools, jigs, fixtures...etc. They (I remember) want to build an engine...not a tool...yet.

Details!!! Such as how to run the engine once built. What's needed? Hose, air supply, etc.

If this is going to be a 'real' proposal, kit, offer...get some guinea pigs to build it and note what problems they have. You will not remember what you didn't know and will fail to point out things they need to know.

I think this can be an awesome project. When completed it can be a draw to the forum...make it a read-only thread. On that note this forum is a big reason why I'm still here (like it or not :big. Keep it in the front.

Maybe it's possible to give some options? If the player has certain equipment...they could consider some different feature? But otherwise, can still build?

I hope this helps.


----------



## Deanofid

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> You know I think Dean is right. Why in Zuess' backside, would you want to throw a fastball slider at a newbie by sinking the ship before it sets sail?
> BC1
> Jim



Metaphoric musings much appreciated, Jim!


----------



## black85vette

Thanks Zee. You have a lot of good input and we are thinking along the same lines.  I think having a list of tools, procedures, and materials will need to be a big part of this. Hopefully we can end up with a complete project documented and then some posts showing several builds of the project as a reference to the new builder.

I am not experienced enough myself to do this alone. I can't design, I can't use CAD well, and I can only build simple stuff. But much like I have found in my working life, if I can get the right smart people in the room with me I am an OK project manager.

So, you smart people out there. Join in. (newbies also)


----------



## shred

I'm thinking 3" flywheel stock might not be super-easy for a newbie to locate either. I've seen some engines done with faucet handles and the like for flywheels.

With at least a 4-jaw chuck, you can make flat surfaces and drill holes in them at random spots, plus the usual round bits. Should be enough for a decent oscillator.


----------



## 90LX_Notch

This is a great idea, especially since one of the goals of this site is to bring new people into the hobby.

I would think that most people acquire machines in this order:

Drill press
Lathe
Mill

A survey of the members could confirm or deny this.

I would think that by the time they are considering getting into this hobby they have the drill press and the lathe. That being said, the engine should be designed around having a dp and lathe or just the lathe by itself. 

Materials should be readily available at the local hardware store as well as drills, taps and dies. (Locally, I can't find anything smaller then 4-40.) This would allow for rapid replacement in the event of a mishap. 

Size: Keep it where the parts are easy to make but yet the raw material cost is affordable. (This factored heavily in my choice of builds.)

That's my 2 cents for now.


----------



## black85vette

Great input so far!  I have combined and compiled ideas from the posts and here is what I have so far. I have broken the criteria into 5 catagories. The last two are not critical at this point but I don't want to lose the thoughts.

Remember that this list is not fixed and unmovable. We may have to change or adapt as we go. This is to give us a common starting point for the specs of the engine.  Don't nit pick here. We will start with the broad strokes and fill in the details as we go. Look it over and see if there is anything that gives you some serious heartburn or could lead to the colapse of civilization as we know it.


MATERIALS

Minium number of parts of easy machining materials
Should be small to keep material expense down. 
Very little machining i.e use bar stock where possible
Use a single material size as much as possible.


TOOLS

Minium number of tools
Requires a small lathe / may not have 4 jaw or faceplate
No mill or milling attachment - might give options if they do
Prefer a drill press
Bench vise / files
Hacksaw or better a bandsaw
Measuring and layout tools - square / dial caliper / dial indicator w/ magnetic base
Critical bores should be able to be made using reamers rather than boring bars.
No custom tools, jigs, fixtures...etc
Use commonly available drills, taps and screws


PROCEDURES

No overly complicated setups/geometry. 
Little or no soldering. 
Any threading needed should be achievable with common sized taps and dies. 
Use screws with nuts where possible to reduce tapping 
Should be small to keep material expense down. 
Very little machining i.e use bar stock where possible
Fasteners would be common sizes, 4-40 or larger 


ENGINE

Max. 3" flywheel


BUILD

Include in the kit a list of tools needed.
A complete list of materials...sources if possible.
Instructions will need to include how to setup




Next step will be to focus on the engine specs and configuration.


----------



## 90LX_Notch

Looking good black85vette. Civilization will continue on .


----------



## bearcar1

I think that is a pretty good start so far, nice job of putting that list together. Well done.

BC1
Jim


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Excellent start black85vette!

If I may...

No soldering at all. I'm on my 4th engine (such as it is) and no soldering yet.
In a similar vein (i.e. 4th engine)...no drill press needed.
A 3" flywheel? Maybe too big? I have a 7x12 lathe. The 2" flywheel for the Launch Engine was no problem (okay...was problem...but that was me...not the equipment). The 21/4" flywheel for the Model 2 was a bit more of a problem. Even though 7x12 means 7" swing...it seems to be a matter of what the 3-jaw chuck can handle. Think limit is out-of-box 7x12 mini-lathe...no 4-jaw...maybe no reversed jaws for the 3-jaw.

The manual is key (well was for me). No matter how good you are...a newbie will have a question/problem you didn't think about. Make sure others go through it. (I just had that pointed out to me at work today. Fooey. Young wet-behind-the-ears wannabe programmer. But they were right.)

Oh...and you probably already know this...don't worry about getting it right the first time...if you realize that those guinea pigs are going to improve it...you'll be far happier. I only say that because of today. Fooey but it is an improved idea.

Again, I think this is an awesome project.


----------



## black85vette

Thanks Zee! You have some really good thoughts on this project.

I agree with the limit on the size of the 7x10 standard 3 jaw. I have actually held larger than 3" in mine by drilling a hole in the center and then put a nut in the chuck. "Bolt" the fly wheel to the chuck. Then turn the outside and the recess on that side.  Now you have a hub that you can hold in the chuck. Square up the outside and finish the second side. But you are still right.  Make it a size that can be done simply.

I am a big fan of not getting it right the first time. I have seen too many projects take way too long trying to fix every potential issue until they were high centered and dead in the water. Unless you are designing aircraft, submarines or medical equipment it is good to get it "about" right quickly and then start to refine and debug. Hmmmm. Sounds kind of like programming (or at least the way I do it)


----------



## black85vette

Had some time last night and got to drawing on my clipboard in my easy chair. Did a little brain storming and using all the ideas that have been suggested. Then I went through a couple of sessions to reduce and simplify. Nothing here is all that original. The general configuration is from one of Elmer's engines. The valve was Brian's idea for one of Chuck's designs. So I "borrowed" on some design ideas from several sources. The valve and piston assembly are drawn to the sides to make things easier to see.

I only have a top and end view because I can't do 3d (just barely got this much done). What I ended up with (if it will even work) is something that you can cut out of 1/4" aluminum 2" bar stock 8.5" long for the base, vertical, crank and flywheel. Then a 2" piece of square aluminum 3/4" stock to make the cylinder and valve bodies. Finally a 1/4" steel rod piece 6" long makes the piston, valve and both connecting rods. So you only have to order 3 pieces of material. The two bores and crankshalf are all the same size so you need just one reamer. All mounting hardware, and pivot points are 4-40 screws. So again just one tap size. I did some on-line shopping and came up with about $5.00 usd for materials and $4.00 for 100 screws. If you can buy the screws locally this gets cheaper.

I am thinking of this as a starting place. But, that does not mean it is the right one. Look it over and see if you have suggestions, corrections or maybe it makes you think of another approach. Let's see where we go from here.


----------



## black85vette

Hi. Welcome to the forum and this thread.

You might like Brian's version of Chuck Fellows horizontal single. It has a number of the features you described. Plus you can post on this forum and hear from others who have already built it.  It is a friendly design and you can use several materials to build it.

Plans are here:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?action=tpmod;dl=item199

And here is a web site with a bunch of info on basic machine tool operations:

http://www.jjjtrain.com/vms/library.html

But you can always ask on this board and get a good answer. You might consider starting a build and then ask the how to questions as you go.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Hi black85vette,

I'm a little confused...I can't quite figure out what the material list is from your post...and the drawing seems to indicate the some round pieces will be turned from plate. If that's true...my suggestion is to use round stock for round pieces. Interrupted cuts for the newbie are scary (very scary my first time).

Have you seen the drawings for the 'Rocker'? I thought those were easy enough to use (although the dimensioning...not to mention my math could have been better).


----------



## black85vette

Zee;

Yes I do have 2 round parts made out of the bar stock. I do it at times without an issue but I am willing to hear other opinions on the matter. By making them out of flat stock I eliminated two additional materials to purchase. So I guess it is a trade off.  I do have questions for you; if we use round stock how do we order 1 piece of 2" round stock 1/4" thick? Or, do we order a couple of inches and cut off the amount needed? How did you do your flywheels? Personally I tend to order about 6" of any material I need and then use a bandsaw to cut it down, but I don't think everyone would want to do that.

The material list was:
1. 2" wide aluminum plate 1/4" thick and 8.5" long
2. 3/4" square aluminum bar stock 2" long
3. 1/4" round rod 6" long

All the parts were then cut from those 3 pieces.

So what do the rest of you think? Round parts from round stock or square stock? Any ideas on buying stock for a flywheel?


----------



## va4ngo

I prefer the flat stock idea. Reason:- I have just tried making a 3 " diameter disc from a piece of breadboard material I believe it may be Polyethylene or Polypropylene, using the no chuck method with masking tape as the gripping material and it worked very easily and trouble free. The person who described the method ( I apologose for not remembering who) says he could turn up discs up to 2 foot diameter on larger lathe using this chuckless method . I have no reason to doubt the method as being acceptable. It would be very difficult to purchase small lengths of 2" Diameter bar.

Great work on this worthwhile first timers project. Keep up the good work. 

Cheers
Phil


----------



## Deanofid

I don't know what you had in mind for the piston and valve, Vette. If aluminum, then it will probably be better to use brass for the cylinder and valve body, and it won't cost that much for a 3/4" square piece. Won't hurt for it to have a little color, too.

The flywheel from aluminum is going to be pretty light. The engine will run smoother and slower if you use a heavier metal for it. Steel or brass. Brass is easiest to cut of course, but costs more. Maybe give the builder the option to use either one?

I'm another one who thinks it will be easier for the new builder to start out with round stock for the flywheel. I've made a lot of square things into round things, so it's not like I have any objections to doing it, but it will be easier to make round things from round, square things from square. 



			
				black85vette  said:
			
		

> The valve was Brian's idea for one of Chuck's designs.



I think you will have to go back a long ways to credit that valve. It's a good, old, design. Great for a new builder. 
Speaking of valves, it needs an intake pipe to go along with it. I would suggest just drilling down a piece of aluminum or brass round stock. Then turning one end down a short distance for a press fit into a common sized drilled hole in the valve body/steam chest.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Hi black85vette,

My mistake. I'm so new to this and what I've done has been from kits of materials...I hadn't thought about the need to cut one's own parts.

While you can readily find houses that will provide metal by the inch...it's not the most economical nor accurate. Although a 'thick' aluminum flywheel may give more inertia at the expense of some looks.

But cutting a round part from square is still uncomfortable to me. I think the 2nd or 3rd part I ever made was a machinist jack from hex stock. The noise from the interrupted cuts was very disconcerting. (Although it was steel...I don't know if aluminum is easier.)

I'd like to see what others think too.

The material list is helpful. You might add the specific material type or suggest various. 6061 T6, 1018 CRS or 12L14 steel. That kind of thing. The easier you make it for the beginner to get started the better. For example, it was tough getting started for me. If I had to study a supplier to figure out what material I needed, there was a chance I'd be too confused, unsure, and give up. If I can go to the house and order this one and that one, and be done...that gets me quicker to my goal of building my first engine. Once I have some success, I'm more likely to spend the time to expand my learning.

On that note...and perhaps this is going too far...when I first started several months ago...I didn't know what T6 meant, 1018, CRS, etc. I understand the manual can't tell the beginner everything...but it would be helpful to provide some information or explanation on the materials being proposed. That or some references where they can look if they're interested.

When I was a kid building plastic models, one of the things I always enjoyed was when the instructions provided a bit of history on the subject model. And, if there were tips and techniques...well! I'm not suggesting anything major...but a lot of people don't even know how a steam engine works. I remember the Model #2A...my very first attempt...not a word about how it operates.


----------



## black85vette

Zee;

I agree with the need for a materials list and sources for exact type of metal. I still have some problems figuring out what I need. Fortunately I have a Metal Supermarket near me and they are good about explaining different grades and helping me pick, but not everybody will have that. So when we get a design some of the experts will need to jump in with help on that.

You don't have to cut flat stock from a totally square piece. I keep cutting corners until I get close to round then go for the lathe. Still some noise.

Dean;

Agree about the inlet piece. I didn't show it but it is an opportunity to turn a piece to a correct diameter and drill it on the lathe.

The piston and valve were to be made from the 1/4" steel rod.

I looked at doing the flywheel in brass but the price jumps up. We could give several options on the plans and let the builder decide based on budget and material availability. I thought about doing the flywheel, cylinder, and valve out of one piece of 3/4" brass. (yes the flywheel is still square) Then turn the flywheel down to 1/2" with a 1/4" hub. It would be wider and plenty heavy. Plus it would be another opportunity to make a different type of cut. Another thought I had was to use two thicknesses of the 1/4" stock (yes flat again ;D ) and use screws to hold them together. That would make it heavier but still cheap.

Good discussions guys. Everyone has some insight to this and we should be able to incorporate some experience and expertise.

Everyone is welcome to comment.


----------



## black85vette

Need more input here. 

Over the weekend let's try to get our basic configuration and some of layout work done. My ideas are only to start up some discussion. You can go from there or go an entirely different direction.

Maybe we can start with discussing some basic configurations that you have done or seen that would suit a new builder and fit the criteria we have so far.

 :idea:


----------



## black85vette

Well, not much activity on this over the weekend.

How about we get a little more specific.  What valve arrangement should we use? Should be easy to make and appropriate for a small engine.

BTW: Zee, while I prefer to use flat stock for the flywheel, it occurred to me that we can just leave it up to the builder. If they want round stock they can just order what they need. It really is not critical. We can always have options and alternate ways to do something depending on the builder.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

I like that idea black85vette. Providing options and alternate ways will help prevent beginners getting stuck. Some us (me!) take a little while before we get flexible enough to consider alternatives on our own.

Sorry I can't help with the valve arrangement. I don't have the experience to comment much on design, engine types, etc.


----------



## rleete

Spool valve. It's a simple turning exercise, and fit is somewhat important for minimizing leakage, but not so important that it won't run if it's too loose.

One other point. NO angles! Setting up in a mill is difficult enough, and most newbies won't have any angle blocks to start. That means holes need to be drilled at right angles. Also, minimize blind holes if possible, making them through holes. If the design needs a blind hole - like the bore of a cylinder, for example, it's much easier to make a through hole and cap the end.

I like the design posted on page 2, but I'd rather see round cylinder/valve body with a flat on the side. Yes, it's milling, but brass or aluminum can be hand filed easily enough.


----------



## black85vette

rleete  said:
			
		

> Spool valve. It's a simple turning exercise, and fit is somewhat important for minimizing leakage, but not so important that it won't run if it's too loose.



I have seen spool valves used in some designs and agree that they just require simple turning. I am interested. Do you know how to calculate the basic size and timing? I have never actually used one.

The round vs square cylinder can be another option like Zee and I discussed on the flywheel. Let them make it the way they want according to their skills and IF they have a mill. We can do the same for the blind hole issue. They can make it either way. I am liking the idea of several ways to skin this cat.


Thanks for the good ideas!


----------



## Kermit

black85vette  said:
			
		

> The round vs square cylinder ... Let them make it the way they want according to their skills and IF they have a mill.



I wanted to comment on this if I may.

I'm thinking a simple no frills - lathe only - design, with multiple "upgrades" if you will. Many different engines of the same exact design, but with addition frills and florishes that can be used to learn new lathe and mill techniques. So a person could make the crank, piston rod, piston, and bore the cylinder and proceed from there and build the variation he wants according to skill level and equipment. Fancy milling on the flywheel. Radiused edges. Slopes on flat surfaces. Internal threading, or just plain threading.(haven't tried it yet!)  I'm scared of it still. Any number of variations. All fitting on the same basic motor chassis.

Am I making any sense with these ideas?

well anyway, I'll keep reading. loving this thread,
Kermit


----------



## black85vette

Kermit  said:
			
		

> , but with addition frills and florishes that can be used to learn new lathe and mill techniques. So a person could make the crank, piston rod, piston, and bore the cylinder and proceed from there and build the variation he wants according to skill level and equipment. Kermit



Kermit: When this started I hadn't even thought about that aspect of it but you make perfect sense. I can see a couple of chapters after the basic build and each with some specific machine operation to learn and dress up the engine in the process.

Thanks for the thoughts!  Keep jumping in. Thm:

Of course we still need to get this thing designed. Any other input out there on the valve?


----------



## Quickj

Another option for Flywheels for engines you are building are "Found Flywheels"

This picture is two that I found today at the local thrift store. They are the drivewheels from old "eggbeaters" from the kitchenwares department at Goodwill.

Roughly 2.75" in Diameter, 1/4" and 3/8" inch thick, Nicely chrome plated. Interesting gear look to them. and they only cost a couple of dollars. I always shop with an eye towards "Could I use this to build an engine" It is amazing the stuff you can find in a thrift store that will work. 

I used a Found flywheel like this on the first engine I ever built 10 or 12 years ago.


----------



## Quickj

I looked at your drawings on page 2, and I decided to do a concept build to see how difficult this would be as a 1st engine. As you can see from the photos, I did not finish it today, but I am close. I have about 4 hours in it.

I decided to build this as if I had limited tools. I hand cut all of the metal plate with a hacksaw. and filed smooth. Once I determined that those processes would work (Although very slow) I switched to the mill to do final clean up. I drilled all holes with a drill press. etc.

I had the most problems with the flywheel. I made the first one from 1/4" plate, Hacksawed roughly to size, and then put it on a mandrel to turn between centers to make it round. This worked well. Then I did the final center bore and ream which made it fit the shaft a little loose. I could have used locktite to secure it, but I thought I would just put a little knurl on the shaft to expand the shaft enough to hold the flywheel securely. I pressed the shaft into the flywheel with my 2 ton arbor press (crookedly, scratch one flywheel).

The second flywheel I made from 2 inch round bar 7075. Parted off a 1/4" thick disc. Drilled and reamed. Close fit this time. Will use locktite. 

I still have to make the piston, Valve, connecting rods, and crank disk.  

I think that this will work fine. There is many ways that the basic design can be personalized. I will see if I can finish up the build tomorrow, Test run it, and write up a detailed report on the build.

I might redraw your basic plan in CAD and save it as PDF if it is OK with you.


----------



## black85vette

WOW! That's great. :bow:  I like what you did on the flywheel side to mount the valve body.  I think that could allow a wider flywheel and add some weight. That same technique could be used to go to a larger piston which I think would also work better.

I have one that I am building as a test platform also. Right now I am trying to work out the spool valve suggested by Rleete. I think it will be better than the original one. It seems to have less friction because it does not have pressure pushing it against the side and it has less surface area to rub against the cylinder wall.  It ended up being about 2" long because I kept the stroke at .5" and the position of the port the same. Still not sure I am getting it right since I don't understand the math behind it.

BTW; I put the stroke of both the piston and valve at .5" as a starting point because it was easy to locate the pin on the crank and flywheel, not because that is the proper amount of stroke.

I attached a picture of the original valve and the spool valve in its current iteration.

Thanks for your contribution and feel free to modify as you see fit. It was only a concept not a design.


----------



## bearcar1

A very cool looking engine that is something other than a wobbler. (those engines just get kind of boring after a bit) This one however seems to fit the requirements of a first time builder and the materials can be commonly found. Carry on... :bow:

BC1
Jim


----------



## black85vette

Here is my starting point for a spool valve. Not sure it is right. It is a little longer than it needs to be due to the fact that I kept the port to the head and mounting screws on the frame the same as the original valve and just worked around it. I think that functionally it is close.

Any comments / thoughts?


----------



## Deanofid

It looks basically what it should look like, Vette. The distance between the two "spool" diameters will be dictated by the throw of the eccentric. You might want to figure that out first, then decide where to position the spools, and you may have to reposition the intake port slightly so it's within the the outer limit of the spool travel. 

Also, you can decide the eccentric throw by how long the spool has to travel. That's a little bit backwards, but will work just the same, as long as the spool doesn't end up having to travel to far. 

Nice work on the trial parts, Quick and Vette.

Dean


----------



## black85vette

I got the spool valve to work. But I decided the engine needed more piston so I turned a 3/8" piston out of brass and re-bored the cylinder. That was much better.

Now a question for you real engine designers. How do you get better low RPM performance? Mid to high RPM runs well and I would like it to run slow and smooth. My first thought is; more flywheel. I have tried changing the timing in both directions by small increments without much difference.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Deanofid

Your first thought is on the right track, Vette. Also, it may just need to be run in for an hour or two.

It's still a fairy small piston, too. That, and if it has a pretty short stroke will make it want to run at the higher speeds. A longer stroke will often slow it down. Still, more mass in the flywheel is usually a sure bet.

Is the bearing surface for the crankshaft just drilled, or has it been reamed? A close running fit here will make for a better runner. If it wobbles in the crankshaft bore even the slightest, it will eat power and won't want to run slow.

Check for anything that binds. Should spin freely if you give the flywheel a flick. If you spin it gently a number of times and it stops at or near the same place each time, it's binding on something. Crank pin or valve pin are the first place to look.

Dean


----------



## black85vette

Thanks Dean. I think I can get a little more stroke with the room I have to work with. I also have some space on the flywheel side. It will require moving the valve outboard just a bit. But the nice thing is that they are really easy to make. Then I can go with a thicker flywheel.

The bearing surface was done with a chucking reamer. I may go back and put a brass bushing in it anyway.

I have gone through the binding exercise and got everything sorted out and it is running pretty free and loose. I think I will run down today and get some thicker material for the flywheel and try that first.


----------



## rleete

Long throw, long stroke and large flywheel for slower performance. Like an old mill engine. Also, double acting helps to smooth it out, but that increases complexity for the newbie. Look at this one for comparison:

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/product.php?productid=3083&cat=4&page=1


Note that the smaller the engine, the harder to get to run at slow speeds. A tiny oscillator will only keep running at a blur, but make one quite large (like a 1" bore, 2" stroke) and it will putt along much slower, but with a more "lopey" sound.


----------



## black85vette

rleete; thanks for the info. I have some changes to make. Next I am going to lengthen the cylinder body by .5 inch adding .25 on each end. This will make it less likely to drill through the head end and add .25 inch of room to increase the stroke.

I have moved the valve to the outside to allow for a 3" flywheel 5/16" thick.

Dean; you made me think about wobble in the crankshaft so I am planning on adding a brass bushing .438 inch wide for the shaft. That should give it a lot more horizontal stability.

I made the changes to the drawing and welcome any comments and suggestions. I think this is pretty close.


----------



## Deanofid

black85vette  said:
			
		

> Dean; you made me think about wobble in the crankshaft so I am planning on adding a brass bushing .438 inch wide for the shaft. That should give it a lot more horizontal stability.



That will make a difference. I would fill up all the space available between the flywheel and crank disc with bushing. 

If you make the engine to use a simple eccentric for the valve it looks like you would actually have enough room for a simple bearing block outboard from where the eccentric would lie. No bearing problems that way for sure. 
The eccentric consists of a simple aluminum disc with one hole in it, off center 1/2 the distance of the valve travel. Would require a rod to run the valve. Could be simply a piece of flat stock with a hole in each end. 

Dean


----------



## black85vette

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> If you make the engine to use a simple eccentric for the valve it looks like you would actually have enough room for a simple bearing block outboard from where the eccentric would lie. No bearing problems that way for sure.
> The eccentric consists of a simple aluminum disc with one hole in it, off center 1/2 the distance of the valve travel. Would require a rod to run the valve. Could be simply a piece of flat stock with a hole in each end. Dean



That is something I kicked around early on in my head. My issue was some of the constraints we placed on this for new builders. What I like about that arrangement is that you can put the flywheel outboard and you have very little restriction on the size of it. Maybe we do another project as the "Second Build" engine and introduce the 4 jaw chuck and eccentrics.

Tonight I made another cylinder for a longer stroke and it helped the low RPM a lot. Now I am trying to carve out enough room for a 3/8" flywheel. I was thinking 5/16" but found that it is hard to find material in that thickness. 

I want to do the bushing first since I think that will get some results.

Anyway it is running fairly well at about 7 or 8 lbs as it is with the new cylinder. Excuse the C clamp but I just wanted to try the cylinder and have not drilled the mounting holes yet.


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvWlz9XTUBE[/ame]


----------



## Deanofid

It looks like it runs quite well Vette.
I'll bet that after you let it run for about an hour, then clean all the gray oil out of it that it will run down around 3psi.

For the eccentric I mentioned, you don't need a four jaw. Just drill one hole in a disc off center. Can be done with a drill press, or even with a hand drill, and ream it afterward. 

Dean


----------



## va4ngo

I think a first time builder would also be interested in how you arrived at the build by show ing that video clamps and all

Well done I think its a great first project

Cheers
Phil


----------



## zeeprogrammer

If all you need is a lathe and minimum tools to make that then I think you have a great candidate for a beginner's engine. It's an interesting engine and looks more like what a beginner might think of as an engine. My first engine was a simple wobbler but I have to admit it wasn't what I thought an engine would look like. It seemed odd to me to have the mass of a cylinder oscillating like that.

How long would you say it would take for a beginner to make? Someone who hadn't touched a lathe yet.


----------



## black85vette

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> How long would you say it would take for a beginner to make? Someone who hadn't touched a lathe yet.



Not sure Zee. Lathe turned parts are the piston, valve and flywheel. Piston and valve are pretty simple turning exercises and with some guidance a few hours on those. The flywheel is not complicated but it also depends on which way they go. Flat stock or round stock? Also how much sawing they need to do and if that is with a hand powered hacksaw. That could eat up some time. The frame, cylinder, valve body and other bits are easy pieces and mostly layout / drill. Just a guess but maybe a weekend and the following week to finish? Based on my test parts I think someone with experience would do this in a day. 

Brian could do in a morning if he didn't eat lunch till after 1pm  :big: Then he would have the modified drawings and animation done in the afternoon.  :bow:

Zee, I also ran by Metal Supermarket today to pick up some materials and talked with the guy about cutting materials. Specifically I asked about 3" round aluminum stock. He said they just charge $2 per cut. So, if someone did not have the means to part off, a band saw to cut it or the desire to start with flat stock and make a it round in the lathe, they could just order a 5/8ths inch piece of 3" round aluminum and pay the $2 cutting fee. My experience is that their cuts are pretty accurate, smooth and square. Sounded like more options to me.  How does that sit with you?


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Now I'm trying to remember why I asked how long to build.... ;D

It would give some measure of difficulty and how soon the beginner would experience success. (I had mentioned earlier that, at least for me, an running engine is the primary goal.)

But that reminds me...we give each other 'That a boy', 'Great job', etc...It's important. I remember when I was in college in a microprocessor lab...the instructor said "If you build something...and it works...get up on the table and shout it out". I've done similar at work when a program finally works...stand-up...arms in the air..'yipppeeee!'. (Of course I quickly hide under the desk when everyone stops and looks at me with expressions...'what the?'.)

My point being...when it comes to instructions...remind them that they did good!

As for the flywheel...it does sound like an option..."How to get a round flywheel"...yeah...having 2 or 3 or so ways to get the raw stock ready is good.

Again...great idea here.


----------



## black85vette

woohoo1

I think we have a winner! Rebuilt almost the entire engine tonight. Drew up some changes during the day. Stretched the frame 1.5 inches to make the connecting rods a little longer and thus reduce some of the angle to the valve and piston. That also let me make some room at the end of the flywheel so it would clear the valve. That should allow for a thicker flywheel if the builder wants it. However, the 3" x 3/16ths brass flywheel that I have on it is working just fine. The other big change was a .5 inch piston with .75 inch stroke. That made a world of difference. Low speed is now great and it will run down to under 3 lbs steady and smooth. That is just what I wanted. Easy to build and a good solid runner.

Now back to the drawings. I made most of the changes today but found a couple of small tweaks as I was building tonight.

Thanks to all for the great advice and ideas on how to make it run properly. Your help paid off big time.  :bow:

Then on to the next phase. Document a build and put together some instructions.  I would appreciate everyone joining in and adding tips, techniques and info that a new builder might need to know.

It is later than I usually stay up. I was so close to getting it running that I just kept going. I will pay for it tomorrow. No pics or video tonight. I will shoot some tomorrow when I get home.


----------



## rake60

The grin here is probably as big as your own Vette.

Nothing beats that first runner coming to life! Thm:

Rick


----------



## black85vette

Here is the tools, materials and operations for this build:

Tool list:

Lathe
	3 jaw chuck
	parting tool
	live center optional but useful

Hacksaw or Bandsaw

Center Drill Set - cheap and useful

Tap / 4-40 taper tap

Drills
	#43 .089 for the 4-40 tap
	1/8th inch
	7/32 to predrill for 1/4 inch reamer
	15/32 to predrill for 1/2 inch reamer
	1/4 inch reamer
	1/2 inch reamer

Drill press - preferred 

You can eliminate the the drills and reamers if you drill to size, hone the cylinder smooth and then
fit the piston / valve to the hole. Fit is not critical and a little loose is OK.


Materials list:


1/4" x 2" aluminum flat bar / 11" long
3/4" square aluminum bar / 4" long
1/2" diameter brass rod / 4" long
1/4" diameter rod in mild steel / 5" long
1/4" x 1/16" flat brass 
4-40 screws 1" long 15 pieces

Not all the 4-40 screws need to be this length. You can order shorter ones or just cut the 1" down to the size you want.


Operations:

Lathe
	face
	turn to diameter / length
	cut to length

Metal saw
	cut to length / about 6 cuts 
	no cut part is critcal or mated to another part so no milling required

Drill
	center punch
	center drill
	drill pilot hole
	drill to size
	ream
	drill to depth (cylinder)

Layout
	measure and mark holes for drilling

Tap
	tap through and blind holes

File
	file a flat spot on the piston / valve stems for connecting rod (a mill can be used)
	file cut ends smooth


I think this has stayed close to the original specs and objectives.  I did learn that trying to go too small is just as hard as going too big. There is a sweet spot where things are easy to work on but still not take too much material.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Good stuff there.

Just a few thoughts...reminders...or things to ignore...

I'm working on the assumption that by 'beginner' we mean someone new to machining in general...not just model engineering...

When listing the tool list...details are helpful. For example, the hacksaw...size? blade type? number of teeth?

The material list...360 brass? 60161 T6 aluminum...kind of steel.

You might already be thinking this and just wanted to show the list of items...so I hope you forgive me.

Maybe this is over the top...would a beginner know what a center drill is? Or even what reaming is?

Again, this may depend on what you mean by 'beginner'. Would a glossary be useful? Something that gives the definitions and/or uses of the various terms?

I'm sure I'm going too far...it's all about balance. But just want to provide what help I can.


----------



## black85vette

Zee; Good input.  I think as we get into the documentation phase we gather the types of things you are suggesting and include it in a "Manual" with the prints, instructions and any useful information people will contribute.  I think the first step will be simply to document a build and do some photos and comments on how to build it. Then start adding tutorial type sections as they are contributed.

Tonight I finished up some loose ends. Got the bushing installed and made some new connecting rods to fit the new stretched frame and longer distances. The great part is that it ran so well that the air gauge was not even moving off the pin. So I took the tube and blew into it and was able to get it to run! My wife shot a short clip of it running.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0sbeH-Zv5Y[/ame]

Here are some still shots of it in its "final" form. Excuse a couple of extra holes and a plug where the air tube was. I made changes to it rather than start all over (again).


----------



## zeeprogrammer

black85vette  said:
			
		

> I think the first step will be simply to document a build and do some photos and comments on how to build it. Then start adding tutorial type sections as they are contributed.



Yep. And nice video. I haven't made anything yet where I can use lung power.


----------



## black85vette

Another shot you might find interesting. It is the "learning" pieces that were discarded as the changes were made.


----------



## black85vette

Updated drawings


----------



## black85vette

one more


----------



## Deanofid

It's great!


----------



## mklotz

Now you guys need to think of a clever name for it so the newbies can say, "Yeah, I built the xxxx."


----------



## ke7hr

mklotz  said:
			
		

> Now you guys need to think of a clever name for it so the newbies can say, "Yeah, I built the xxxx."



How about the "Octoberfest" since it started and became a runner all in the month of October?

This might just be my second project!


----------



## Kermit

name it ;  NEWTON


----------



## Deanofid

Name it "The Notarocker".


----------



## Tin Falcon

Ok now, you guys did all the work. 
Octoberfest does not cut it IMHO. I love lateral thinking, 
 so how about naming it Ramius, after the captain of the Red October, or Markus if the former is too formal. 
Tin


----------



## black85vette

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Name it "The Notarocker".



Or, "Notawobler"  Rof}

Seriously, I hadn't given this much thought.  How about we have a poll with a vote? Can we do that??


----------



## mklotz

Gee, I know one thing. If I ever buy a yacht, I'm not letting you guys name it.

Call it "primo", Italian for first - as in first engine - and it carries the vernacular connotation of "first class".


----------



## va4ngo

"Primo" sounds good


----------



## bearcar1

Oh I dunno.... I kind of like the notion of it's "NOT-A-ROCKER" myself. It needs no explanations in reference to a person of quaint historical meaning or theatrical appearance.

BC1
Jim


----------



## black85vette

Since the Volkswagen was the "peoples car" and was designed for simplicity and low cost how about Volksmotor - the "peoples engine"?

Or, the "SWAG" since that is the method I used to arrive at most of my designs? :big:


----------



## Deanofid

black85vette  said:
			
		

> Since the Volkswagen was the "peoples car" and was designed for simplicity and low cost how about Volksmotor - the "peoples engine"?
> 
> Or, the "SWAG" since that is the method I used to arrive at most of my designs? :big:



If you mean "swag", as in stuff that was pinched, then it would represent a lot of what has already been made here. Very few can claim any originality, though some do. Try something descriptive, like the Eze-Steamer, or some such. (My suggestion for "Notarocker" was just a nod to all the rocker builders on the forum. Only meant in jest.)

Volksmotor... eh. Kind of common, and a "motor" runs on electricity. What you have here is an engine.

Dean


----------



## black85vette

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> If you mean "swag", as in stuff that was pinched, then it would represent a lot of what has already been made here. Very few can claim any originality, though some do. Dean



Sorry, I forget not everyone uses the same slang. SWAG = scientific wild a**ed guess.  :big:


----------



## 90LX_Notch

When kids are learnig to read there are the "Easy Reader" books; why not "EZ Build"? Or, "EZ Engine".


----------



## black85vette

90LX_Notch  said:
			
		

> When kids are learnig to read there are the "Easy Reader" books; why not "EZ Build"? Or, "EZ Engine".



I like that idea or even shorten it to a more generic "EZ"


----------



## zeeprogrammer

In which case make it E-Z so people won't say 'ez'.
I liked the "E-Z Engine" too.


----------



## rleete

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> I haven't made anything yet where I can use lung power.



Really? My rocker runs on lung power quite well. I can even get some pretty decent revs out of it if I push a little.

Works so well, I made a couple out of PVC (body) and aluminum (piston) for neighborhood kids. Instead of a base, I made the cylinder extra long - about 3" - so it's hand held.


----------



## Lykle

OK, here is an overview of the Metric version.

Sorry couldn't resist.

In making this I noticed a few measurements missing in the drawings.
I managed to deduce them, so I think it was intentional. As in the hidden error?

Just to be sure, the dimensions I missed were:
Diameter flywheel.
Diameter crankshaft
Diameter of the thinner part of the valve
Length of both the con rods

I will produce the metric drawings tomorrow, if you don't mind.

Lykle


----------



## black85vette

Lykle  said:
			
		

> Just to be sure, the dimensions I missed were:
> Diameter flywheel.
> Diameter crankshaft
> Diameter of the thinner part of the valve
> Length of both the con rods



Awesome job on the 3D drawing. 

About the "missing" measurements; Those were going to be part of the write up because they are not really critical.  Flywheel can be 2.5" to 3" diameter and 1/4 to 7/16" thick depending on preference or material available. Crankshaft should be 1/4" and I'll add that to the drawings. Thinner part of the valve is around 1/8" but not critical at all. Length of the connecting rods was not called out because I planned on doing it "functionally".  

1. Connect the piston to one end of the connecting rod.
2. Set the piston to 1/16" inch before TDC
3. Set the crank so it is at its closest point to the cylinder
4. Mark and drill the hole for the crank end of the connecting rod.

Valve is similar but I put it to the full open-intake position and the flywheel pin to the side away from the valve.

Doing it this way eliminates accumulated small errors in the build. Not a purist approach but this is for beginners with limited experience and equipment. So hopefully there were no intentional hidden errors like we had suggested early on. ;D  However I cannot rule out my pitiful memory for having overlooked or forgotten something either.

I had thought we were going to want a metric version but just had not got to that point yet.  So thanks for jumping in and joining the party. It will be great to have this in metric. Appreciate you taking it on. :bow:


----------



## va4ngo

Good work Lykle and Vette. Thans for removing the responsibility of a deliberate error from my charge.

Metric is good for those in metricated areas. Like the idea of functional build as you go for beginners and those of us who may occasionally need and use this method.


Cheers
Phil


----------



## Deanofid

Lykle  said:
			
		

> OK, here is an overview of the Metric version.



What? Are you some kind of troublemaker? 



> In making this I noticed a few measurements missing in the drawings.
> I managed to deduce them....
> Lykle



Oh... So now we're Sherlock Holmes.


(Sorry, couldn't resist.)

Nice computer drawing there.

Dean


----------



## Lykle

Trouble maker, me, no never! 8)

Anyway, here are the drawings for the Metric version.
Took a little longer then expected, sorry.

Let me know what you think. (as if you would never do that)

Lykle

edit: Modified the BOM 

View attachment EZ engine.zip


----------



## black85vette

Great job on the drawings! I'll steal some ideas from you on how to layout the drawings. I am just getting them finalized now and redrawing them in a new software package so I have a slight learning curve as I go.

Thanks for your contribution. I sure the metricated folks will appreciate it.


----------



## black85vette

Just got back from our fall foliage trip. Took the laptop and got the drawings cleaned up for the U.S. version. After we document a build and get the instructions together I will upload them all in one folder in the upload section. For now here are the drawings in pdf format. Let me know if you see any errors.


EDIT: Drawings updated 10/30/09, 11/12/09, 11/13/09 

View attachment EZ Plans US 13NOV09.zip


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Black85vette, Please accept this as helpful advice. When I was taught drawing, when I taught drawing and when I draw the first question that needs to be answered by the designer/draftsman is, could I build it from my drawings. Your view layouts should conform to drafting standards which makes it easier for the reader to understand what he's looking at. You have for example a dimension for the valve which should be spelled out as a diameter, not just a dimension. The reader has to infer that the cross section is round and not square. These might seem trivial to you but you have in your mind what you want, the reader doesn't. Once again please take this as constructive advice.
gbritnell


----------



## black85vette

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Hi Black85vette, Please accept this as helpful advice. gbritnell



Of course I will take it that way. It would take quite a bit to offend me since my total training in drafting was sitting at a table with a square and set of triangles in Jr. High.  :big: I use some CAD at work but mostly because I work with new building construction, not machine drawings.

I can change that to a diameter reference without a problem.  I am hoping that some of this can be figured out by looking at the pictures but the clearer the drawings are the better for the builder.

I am also open to a real pro putting these into "drafting standards". (hint, hint)

Tnx for the feedback.


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Black85vette, If you look at the set that Lykle posted they are excellent drawings, the arrangement, dimensioning etc. 
gbritnell


----------



## black85vette

Starting the build part of the project with the intent of compiling a build document with all the drawings, notes and photos in one place.

A note on measurements. Every measurement on this is given in decimal inches but if you do the math you will find that almost all of them are some multiple of 1/16th inch. You can layout most of this with a square marked in 16ths.

First cut the two pieces for the frame from the 1/4"x2" aluminum. Both pieces are 4.5 inches long.  Layout the location of the holes. I use layout dye but a large magic marker works fine. Use your calipers to scribe lines both horizontally and vertically. A machinist's square and scribe could be used here also. Center punch each of the hole locations including the hole in the top for the bushing set screw and the two holes in the bottom edge for the screws to attach the base. The air passage is 1/8th inch.  All the other holes are tapped for a 4-40 screw. A 4-40 thread calls for a .089 drill bit. In aluminum I prefer to use a 3/32nds inch bit which is .094. It makes tapping a lot easier. Mark and drill the 1/8th inch holes in the base.  For the .375 (3/8ths) inch hole, you should first drill it with the 1/8th inch bit. The two holes in the bottom should be about 3/8ths of an inch deep.

To aid in tapping make a simple guide by using a piece of scrap round stock. Put it in the lathe and using your tail stock chuck, drill a hole large enough for the shank on the tap. Doing it in the lathe helps assure that the hole is centered and square. Hold the guide firmly in place with one hand and start the tap with the other.  Do the same thing for the holes in the edge by clamping the piece in a vise flush with the top and then use the vise as a wider base to help keep the tap perpendicular to the work.


----------



## black85vette

Now you have the frame of the engine ready. Put it together with a couple of screws. If you ordered all of your screws 1" long you will need to cut these down to about 1/2 inch.  Cut them to a length that will not bottom out in the hole. Look at the picture below. It is a scrap piece of 1/8th inch steel strap held in the vise. Drill and tap it to 4-40. Put the screw in and then cut it off. When you remove the screw the steel piece will clean up the threads for you.  If you are using a hacksaw put a nut on the screw on the same side as the head of the screw. Tighten the nut down when you have the screw where you want it and the screw will not rotate when you cut.


----------



## black85vette

Time to make the valve and cylinder bodies.  Cut the 3/4 inch square stock to 1.625" and 1.875".  My preference is to drill the large holes first so that if something goes wrong I don't have to redo all the other holes.  Layout the center for the valve, center punch it and then drill it with a 7/32 drill all the way through. Be sure the piece is vertical on both sides.  Drop your drill down next to it and verify that it is parallel to the body before drilling. Then switch to a 1/4 inch reamer and finish the hole to size. Use plenty of oil when cutting and pull the reamer out often to clean the cuttings off of it. Now you can drill the 1/8th through holes and the two air vents. Since the air vents will penetrate into the hole you just reamed you will need to run the reamer down it again to clean up any burrs. You can do this by hand. Hold the piece in one hand and turn the drill chuck with the other.  Turn it just long enough that the reamer turns freely.

The cylinder is done much the same way except the cylinder hole is 1.375 inches deep. Put a piece of tape around your drill bit so you know when to stop. Drill the hole with a 1/4" bit first then a 15/32". Finish it off with a 1/2 inch reamer. Mark, center punch and drill the 1/8th inch mounting holes and air vent. Check to see that the air vent is fully open into the cylinder.


----------



## black85vette

Mount the valve body and cylinder to the upright part of the frame with 1" screws. That takes care of the chassis.  Next will be making some round parts on the lathe.


NOTE: If anyone has any comments, corrections, tips, hints, criticism or otherwise useful information now is the time to contribute. Anything added will be compiled into a final document on building this engine and then packaged as a .pdf in the upload section when we are done.


----------



## black85vette

Updated the drawing to show the cross section of the piston and valve and included diameter measurements. I replaced the folder in the original post rather than take up more space.


----------



## black85vette

Turn the piston from brass .5 inch round stock. Turn the .250 inch part so that it is .4375 inch long.  The piston body is .5 inch long. Mark it and using a parting tool cut it off. Put the .250 end in the chuck and using a file and some fine grit emery paper smooth the piston and fit it to the cylinder. Stop and check fit often and wipe the piston clean. You want the piston to move freely in the cylinder with lubricant. It does not need the compression of a combustion engine so a little loose is OK.


----------



## black85vette

The valve is made of .250 steel stock but you could make it from brass also. Cut it at least 1 inch longer than the valve needs to be so you will have something for the chuck to hold on to.  I like to make the initial cuts with the parting tool to the depth needed. Mark the first cut, position the parting tool, zero the cross slide and then make a cut .0625 inch deep. Remember the cut is measuring depth on one side so it is like a radius. A .0625 deep cut will reduce the diameter by .1250 inch.  That will be a good size for the smaller diameter part. Move the work piece out for the second cut. 

Three points:
1.	Rotate the chuck by hand to be sure you will not hit the carriage or anything else
2.	Keep the cut as close to the chuck as you can
3.	Use a low speed for a parting tool and feed slowly

Do the same thing for the next small diameter. Finally remove the work from the chuck and file / mill / grind the flat spot for the connecting rod. Also, go ahead and drill / tap the 4-40 hole for the connecting rod.  Put the end of the valve back in the chuck so you can file and sand it to size. As with the piston check the fit often until you have smooth action back and forth.

Grind the flat, drill / tap the hole and fit to the body before you cut the valve free from the parent piece.  This allows you to hold or clamp using the end that will be cut away and discarded and not mess up the valve pieces.


----------



## black85vette

The flywheel can be made of .250 inch aluminum flat stock.  Punch a center mark and then scribe a line to draw a 3 inch diameter circle. While you are doing this scribe a line .250 out from the center and make a punch mark anywhere on that radius.  It will be used for the pivot point for the connecting rod to the valve. It is easier to do this now than when you have drilled the center hole for the shaft. Using a bandsaw or hacksaw cut close to the line and remove as many corners as possible. Center drill the punch mark you made and using a live center push the flywheel up against the chuck jaws. Have the chuck jaws set to less than the diameter of the flywheel. You can use double sided tape if you like to help turn the flywheel. Do not over tighten the live center as it will flex the aluminum plate. Making light cuts reduce the diameter of the flywheel until it is smooth all the way around. Now you can mount the flywheel in the chuck using pieces of soda cans cut into strips to protect it from the jaws of the chuck.  Drill the center of the flywheel with at 15/32nds drill and follow it with a .025 inch reamer. Take the flywheel out and drill / tap the punch mark you made for a 4-40 screw.


Almost done! Now some small pieces and the connecting rods. Then ready to do the timing and see if it runs.


----------



## black85vette

The shaft for the engine is a 1.125 inch piece of .250 steel rod. Polish it with fine emery paper and check its fit through the bushing to be sure it rotates freely. Glue one end of the shaft into the flywheel with epoxy glue.

The crank is not critical and you can make it any shape. It just needs a .250 hole and another hole .375 inch from it drilled and tapped for a 4-40 screw that will be its pivot point for the connecting rod.

You will need to make a connecting rod for the valve to the flywheel pivot. Here is the functional way to do it: Insert the valve and then stick a drill in the air vent with the piston / cylinder removed. Push the valve in until the piston just touches the drill. This is the open position and the valve needs to be completely clear of the air vent during the power stroke. At this time the flywheel pivot point is at its furthest point away from the valve assembly. With the valve just past the hole, position the flywheel and measure the distance between the holes and then use that distance to make a connecting rod. Use .250 x .063 brass strips and cut them .125 longer on each end than the center of the hole. Place a .063 thick washer behind the connecting rod on the flywheel end only. This will give it some clearance so it wont rub on the flywheel.

Do almost the same thing for the piston except position the piston .063 inch before it hits the bottom of the cylinder and put the crank pivot towards the piston. Measure and make a connecting rod for that side also.


----------



## black85vette

Timing is easy.  Put the pivot on the flywheel at 12 oclock then put the pivot for the crank at 9 oclock. They are 90 degrees apart to start out. Tighten the set screw for the crank allowing some clearance for the bushing so it does not bind. The bushing can be moved left and right to line up the connecting rods which should be straight with the piston and valve. If you want a thicker flywheel just make the bushing shorter to keep the alignment correct.


----------



## black85vette

The air connection is up to you.  I used some brass tubing with an inside diameter of .125 and enlarged the air vent to allow it to be glued in place with epoxy.  Just make the hole about .125 inch deep and do not allow the epoxy to run into the valve cylinder.

Clean everything really well. Flush out the valve and cylinder bodies with solvent to remove any specs of metal. Flush the piston and valve. Set everything on clean paper towels to avoid getting dirt or grit into the moving parts. Spray all the parts with WD-40, assemble the engine and spin the flywheel.  If every thing is right you should get 3 to 4 revolutions with a flick of your finger. Track down and resolve any friction, interference, or binding issues.

Now the fun part. Hook up some compressed air at about 10 lbs and give it a spin. If it seems stiff you can increase the air until it continues to run. After running for a bit you should be able to reduce the air to under 5 lbs.  After it is running smoothly try moving the timing in both directions and see if there is a spot where it runs the best and tighten the set screw there.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Nice black85vette. Good detail.

You mentioned making a tap guide (as a custom tool). I'd suggest you include instructions for that too.

The flywheel you showed being cut isn't the same one as on the engine is it? And did I understand correctly that the flywheel is just taped to the jaws of the chuck?

I don't think you intended to show all the itty steps in your posts...but I was curious about how the flywheel was mounted. There's one shot from the valve side I think where the connecting rod to the flywheel is nearly horizontal and so is blocking the view of the center of the flywheel. If you include pictures or illustrations, I'd suggest turning the flywheel.

Is the project going to include suggestions on polishing up the various parts?

Great job.


----------



## black85vette

Thanks Zee;

You caught me! I made photos of all the parts as I made them some of them ended in the scrap box but the photo showed what I wanted so I used it. The flywheel I ended up with on mine is made of brass because I have a large supply of 1/4 inch scrap from work. So not every part shown being made is on the finished engine.

The flywheel is actually held in place by the live center. The tape is optional. I don't use it but have read where others do. It should help keep the part from slipping while you cut. I just make very light cuts.

The flywheel is mounted to the shaft with epoxy. I mention that in the part about the shaft. I will add it to the flywheel section also.

I have started gathering all the text from the posts and importing the pictures into MS Word format. Then I will export it to a .pdf when I am done and upload the .pdf and both sets of drawing.

Thanks for all your input on this project. Now we just need someone new to build it!



I am not going to do a lot of polish on this one. I am thinking paint will be an easy way to make it look good and stay with the E-Z idea. On mine I will polish the flywheel. (I think there is a law against painting brass)


----------



## black85vette

This project is close to completion. Got some time and really nice weather this afternoon so I got out the paint. Also polished the brass parts and sprayed them with a clear coat. I am pleased with the finished product.

I also got time to put all the text and pictures of the build into a document but have not got them into .pdf yet.


----------



## vlmarshall

Wow, that first pic looks more like a 3d rendering than a photo. :bow:


----------



## IronHorse

Thats what I thought too!!! I had to look at it for a while. Great looking engine


----------



## black85vette

Vernon  said:
			
		

> Wow, that first pic looks more like a 3d rendering than a photo. :bow:



Thanks. My set up is far from ideal. I just shoot on my work bench and use my shop light on an arm to give me some front fill and deal with shadows from the over head light above the bench. I shoot on a piece of foam core poster board as a background. My camera does have a really good macro and super macro function.  It is also fully manual when I need it.


----------



## black85vette

The plans for metric and US along with the written instructions are now uploaded in a .zip in the downloads / uploads section.  Thanks to all who contibuted and particpated.  :bow:


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Great job black85vette.
Nicely finished too.


----------



## va4ngo

A  very worthwhile achievement, will look forward to other completed engines from first time builders.

Phil


----------



## Twmaster

Doggonit. That is sweet. I'm itching to build a motor. Sadly I do not have a working lathe in the house. Even though I own 7 lathes! (I won't go into that right now) Bah.

Thankfully a buddy is loaning me his Taig so I can make parts to make lathes functional....


----------



## AlasdairM

OK - the E-Z engine looks like the perfect way for me to "get going" with my first engine. However, I am confused (not difficult) ;D

The instructions that I have downloaded (metric) show bronze for the piston, bushing and spacer.

Build documentation however shows brass for these. Are bronze and brass interchangeable? Can either be used?

More noob questions will follow from me I am sure....... 

Regards, A

PS: if moderators think this should be posted elsewhere, rather than being added onto this thread, please feel free to move accordingly!


----------



## Deanofid

Alasdair, brass and bronze are not the same. I don't know why the met version would say bronze.  I didn't notice any mention of materials at all on the english drawing!

I would use brass for the parts you mention, and I believe that is what they were meant to be.

Ask lots of questions! When you start your build, feel free to start a new topic in the "Work in Progress" section.

Dean


----------



## black85vette

Alasdair; Jump right in and don't be shy about asking questions. This was a team effort at design and all bugs may not have been exterminated. The metric drawings were done by Lykle. The U.S. drawings were done by me so there may be some minor differences. The instructions were written using the U.S. drawings. You can use the material specified or substitute what you prefer or have on hand.

You can help out by identifying any issues with the build. We can then make corrections and update the files.  So your input will be very helpful. I agree with Deanofid. When you get started open a new topic in "Work in Progress" and let everyone follow along. Post pictures if possible.


----------



## AlasdairM

Daenofid and black85vette - thanks for the swift replies.

Brass it will be, and not bronze.

Hopefully the attachment shows the list I mean where it refers to bronze and not brass.

When I am brave enough to start work on it (probably not for a while, as I am still learning the very basic techniques on my lathe!) I will post it in Work in Progress thread (plus pictures, of course) ;D

All the best, A 

View attachment 1 EZ Assembly and BOM.pdf


----------



## Lykle

About the metric drawings, be aware that I have not had time to actually build it.

So it is an unproved metric design.
As soon as I am settled in my new home (that I have yet to find) in Cyprus I will build one.
But that is months away.

Lykle


----------



## AlasdairM

Lykle - noted!

Hope the "house hunting" (as we call it over here in the UK) goes well and is not too stressful.

I imagine you will have found, bought and moved into the new house before I have completed the E-Z :-[

Regards, A


----------



## black85vette

Updated drawing for the upright frame. Correct dimensions for the 5 holes on the US plans.

Updated upright again for wrong position on the top left mounting hole. 11NOV09 

View attachment upright3.pdf


----------



## kvom

For some reason I didn't catch thisw thread while it was brewing. The result looks really nice.

My only comment would be on the use of 4-40 screws. For some reason, these don't seem to be in ready supply in hardware stores around here. OTOH, 6-32 is found everywhere, and 5-40 is reasonably available.


----------



## lathe nut

black85vette, is that corrected drawing of the upright in the download or it has to be done separately, love that little engine, thanks, Lathe Nut


----------



## black85vette

KVOM; The screws should not be critical.  I will have to check to be sure the larger holes do not conflict with anything.  I think I ended up with 4-40 because the proportion seemed about right for the size of the engine but a larger size should work.

EDIT; the frame, valve and cylinder have been done using 6-32 screws without an issue.

Lathe Nut: go back a few replies to #119 on page 8. The corrected page is there. Working on getting it put into the .zip package in the downloads section.


----------



## Metal Butcher

kvom  said:
			
		

> For some reason I didn't catch thisw thread while it was brewing. The result looks really nice.
> 
> My only comment would be on the use of 4-40 screws. For some reason, these don't seem to be in ready supply in hardware stores around here. OTOH, 6-32 is found everywhere, and 5-40 is reasonably available.



kvom. I spent too much time and gas looking for small screws in all the wrong places.

I found that its more cost effective and efficient to buy them in box lots from places like Enco and Micro Fasteners just to name two.

http://www.microfasteners.com/

-MB


----------



## Lykle

Metric plans adjusted

Hi all, 
There were a couple of errors in the BOM for the Metric version of the EZ.
With thanks to Rick and to Alasdair for spotting it.

I have changed the BOM and here is the new zip file. 
I will also attempt to find the original post and change it there aswell.

Lykle 

View attachment EZ engine.zip


----------



## ChooChooMike

I'm a bit late to this thread, but CONGRATS GUYS !!! :bow: for all your work in bringing this project to life  

It'll definitely benefit anyone just starting out. There's nothing more satisfying when starting out in machining to see an engine run !! I know, I've been there 3X now 

Mike


----------



## black85vette

I have replaced the corrected US and metric plans and uploaded a new .zip folder in the upload area that has all the changes.  The .zip file is now dated so you know if you have the latest. If you have downloaded this before please download again and delete the old folder so you will have the latest and most accurate plans.


----------



## Little_Freddie

..... Hiya guys,....  Think I'm just what you are looking for!!! I am a 60 year old guy, looking for a hobby,... and my wife has just bought me a 7 x 14 for Xmas!!!  Newbie????  it took me two attempts to get the scriber the right way round in my hand!! :-[ :-[
I have just unpacked the lathe,.. (I have not seen one since I left school 45 years ago....) and have not a clue what I am doing, I am your ideal guinea pig!!! If I could build this, anyone could! 
OK, I may well give this a go,.. just the sort of project to get me started, once I can drill/turn/cut some metal,... so, after having a play over the next couple of weeks, will let you know how I go on,... and more useful, any snags I spot as a total novice.......

looking at the plans/ photos,..  I think I can just about follow everything, other than, on reply post #63, Spool valve.jpg, black85vette said " air supply on right/head on left",  
Question,.....  what does it matter where the toilet is??? ;D ;D

If I see any serious holdups/headscratches, I will post.

Cheers,  Merry Christmas all, thanks for what looks like a super site,

Fred Cooper {G4ZWI}


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Welcome to the forum Fred!
And congratulations.

Now...start a 'Work In Progress' thread and start posting pics of your build. ;D


----------



## black85vette

> think I can just about follow everything, other than, on reply post #63, Spool valve.jpg, black85vette said " air supply on right/head on left",
> Question,.....  what does it matter where the toilet is??? ;D ;D
> 
> Fred Cooper {G4ZWI}



Welcome Fred. I take it you were formerly in the Navy?? Not many others make that use of the word "head".

Also; de AB5ON. Several hams hangout around here.

Jump in and get started. Post pics and questions when you have issues. Plenty of support on this forum.


----------



## deatharena89

deanofid the engines runs great....


----------



## xr6t

Hi to everyone, this thread is exactly what us newbies need.

I too have decided at the ripe old age of 64 to take up a new skill, as an ex mechanic I am used to taking stuff to a machine shop and paying for some one to do basic machining for a ridiculous price.

I am now a driving instructor and because of my mechanical background, have become involved in fitting driving school cars with dual controls. This has meant a small amount of machining, certainly not enough to warrant the expense of a lathe and milling machine. Therefore I purchased a reasonable standard drill press only to find that it could not be relied upon to drill bushes dead centre, for every 3 bushes I made I threw 2 away.

Solution was to go back to paying for them to be made or at long last fullfill the ambition of actually learning to use a lathe.

I have purchased a new 9 x 20 Steelmaster over Christmas and have now got it set it up and ground a couple of HSS tool bits.

Awaiting some essential items to arrive from the good ol' USA and it is away we go with maybe something a little more adventurous, this project sounds like just the thing.

Will no doubt get back and ask heaps of advice, I'm already scratching my head.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Welcome to the forum xr6t
There's a welcome thread if you'd like to tell us more about yourself.
Looking forward to seeing your build. The EZ-engine has seen some great success and appears to be an excellent 1st project.
If you've been looking at the forum...we like pics!!! And lots of them.


----------



## black85vette

Welcome. Hope you like it here. Plenty of help and encouragement on this forum.


----------



## rockets

Ok, after more forum exploring I have found the E-Z engine, and I'm going to have a go.

This is just what I need to learn about the machine and get some practice in. 

Cheers, Rockets.


----------



## black85vette

rockets  said:
			
		

> Ok, after more forum exploring I have found the E-Z engine, and I'm going to have a go.
> 
> This is just what I need to learn about the machine and get some practice in. Cheers, Rockets.



Be sure and start a thread on your build and keep us updated on your progress. I think you will have some fun with it.


----------



## buzbey

hi all,
I am thinking of building the ez engine, I am quite new to this hobby and only have a lathe and an accurate table drill.
Looking at the metric plans 04 Flywheel and other parts, in respect of the piston crank there seems to be no distance given between the center and the center of the M3 crank pin.
On the US plans the distance given is 0.375"=3/8=9.525mm.
If my reasoning is correct how accurate should this measurement be 9.525/9.52/9.5mm.

What a great site, keep up the good work, my comments are ment to be constructive.

ken


----------



## black85vette

Hi and welcome to the forum. You might do a post and tell us about yourself.

The EZ engine does not have many critical measurements.  I did the US plans but not the metric. Your estimate for the distance for the piston crank pin looks about right. A little off one way or the other can be corrected by the length of the connecting rod so it can be anywhere around 9.5 or 9.52 with a problem.

When you get started we would enjoy seeing pictures and hearing about your progress. Hope you enjoy it!


----------



## RollaJohn

In reply #98 it states:



			
				black85vette  said:
			
		

> The flywheel can be made of .250 inch aluminum flat stock..... Drill the center of the flywheel with at 15/32nds drill and follow it with a .025 inch reamer.



The 15/32nds drill size should be 7/32nds and the reamer should be .250 inch or the reamer will be awful loose! 
Or was this the planned gotcha to see if we are paying attention?

Other than this little nitpick I love this plan. Well done all. :bow:


----------



## Lakc

black85vette  said:
			
		

> EDIT: while there are plans, photos and instructions in this post, it is much easier to go to the downloads sections and download the .zip folder titled "E-Z Engine build"  The US and Metric drawings are both in the folder and a document with instructions and photos to help with the build.



If I might make a suggestion, remove the "E-Z Engine build" from the downloads section entirely, and replace it with the e-zbuild13NOV09 file renamed. 

The existence of two sets of plans for this engine definitely raises the difficulty level, and just cost me my last piece of 1/4" T6. :'(


----------



## AeroE

I've seen a couple of threads that inspired me to log in. This is precisely a project for which I was looking.


----------



## Tin Falcon

AeroE: 
Advance and be recognized citizen. Post an introduction about yourself in the welcome sub fora. Please tell us a bit about yourself, your shop and your interests in model engine building. And please give your location. This info helps us help you when a question is asked. 
Lots to learn hear and we love helping new folks learn.
Tin


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Welcome to the forum AeroE.

Whereabouts in Missouri are you?
I used to live in Springfield.
Went to HS in Waynesville.


----------



## AeroE

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Welcome to the forum AeroE.
> 
> Whereabouts in Missouri are you?
> I used to live in Springfield.
> Went to HS in Waynesville.



I grew up in Mountain Grove. I live near O'Fallon now, working for Boeing. My current project is Massive Ordnance Penetrator ("Now There is No Place to Hide"), my last project was Countermine System (world's largest shotgun, most awesome, too). My technical specialty is strength analysis, but I have expertise in the application of other technology.

Right now I own two Unimat SB type lathes, and will probably be adding a Clausing 6913 in the next week or so. Most of my shop equipment has been aimed at airplane construction and car maintenance, and now I'm going to learn how to make a lathe and mill _sing!_

I'll see about fixing my profile later. I added my location, but it ddn't show up in this post.


----------



## ksouers

AeroE, welcome to HMEM.
I'm just across town from you in Harvester.


----------



## davehall

perfect. exactly what i was looking for. how exhausting looking at the myriad of tools, attachments, and such. Now i have a good list of tools to start sneaking into the house


----------



## johnthomp

heres a thought from a bit of a newbie use the simplest easiest tasks from different builds off this forum such as the basic frame from chucks horisontal single in 2 stroke form wich can be simplified to just cutting and fileing from 6 mm thick alu plate or flat bar roughly 2" wide then introduce an old brake cylinder from a car drum brake to introduce cast iron and modifications also the bore and piston is done for you with no reaming and one end can be easily blocked by drilling and tapping something like an old coin to one end of it and as the slave cylinder has a flat side itll be easy enough to make a slideing valve chest for that useing the aluminium plate as mentioned before and i reaccon to keep things simple it could be held together useing 3mm x 25 mm panhead screws like the ones they sell at b&q so readily and to boot all the metals you may need more than likely will be in the metal stock racks at b&q warehouse stores up and down the brittish isles might i add the 4 and 6mm prass tubeing is pretty damn cheap there aswell as for bearings and suck the average old vcr will have evrything you could ever need even a flywheel ;D my first engine was made useing these rules and as for tools all i had was my lathe a few taps n dies a file and a hammer drill it took patience and a steady hand but it payed off as you can all see in my profile pic now lets have some real fun boys and girls


----------



## T70MkIII

This morning I was cobbling together the pieces to start a metric EZ build, and I noticed an error that was quite small in the scale of things; the metric plans call the flywheel diameter out at 50mm rather than 75mm. I'm sure it would still run fine at 50mm (particularly with a steel flywheel which I will use) but I know that wasn't the intended diameter.

My apologies if this has been mentioned before and, of course, for the pun ;D

Not sure yet if I'll start a build thread (there are already quite a few) but I will do so if I get stuck in case the answers also help someone else.


----------



## jolijar

I am new to machining and am taking a college class to learn how. I am fascinated by small engines and other mechanical devices. I think I am going to attempt to build one of these engines during my lab time. Do I have to hook the engine up to a air compressor or could I build a small boiler and power it using steam? If I can use a boiler is there a specific one that you would recommend? I know how to solder and I am learning how to weld and do brazing. Also what type of paint did you use to get that wonderful finish? 

Sorry for all the questions. I'm just interested.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Welcome to the forum jolijar.
If you're knew to this (like me), I'm thinking start with air.
I can't help much with your other questions.


----------



## Maryak

Jolijar,

Welcome to our forum. wEc1

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## black85vette

jolijar  said:
			
		

> Do I have to hook the engine up to a air compressor or could I build a small boiler and power it using steam?
> 
> Also what type of paint did you use to get that wonderful finish?



Jolijar; welcome to the forum. 

I think starting off with an engine running on air is a good start. Steam presents its own set of problems.  Air is simple, clean and safe.

The paint is truly what ever I have on hand.  I use several high temp paints for automotive work like engine and brakes but also use good enamel paint.  A good finish is as much about how you paint as it is the paint you use. Basically I advise to go light at first to get the bottom layer to dry out and stick.  Then one or more coats to get coverage. A final coat is the trick.  You have to put enough paint on to get it to flow and be smooth but not so much that you get a run. That is where experience comes in.

If you decide to build this engine you will find plenty of help here. There have been several of these built by members of this board so you have all of their builds to draw from. Plus there is just a ton of experience here and people willing to share and help you out.


----------



## jolijar

From the Instructions.


> 5/8 round brass stock / 2 long for the bushing or turn down some of the 1/2
> piston stock.




is this some trick I don't know about? If so please explain how to turn a 0.500 rod into 0.625 rod. ;D
on a more serious note does it matter what size I make the bushing? I am ordering my materials soon. 

Is cold rolled 1018 steel suitable for the valve?  

Also what size tubing should I get for the air inlet?


----------



## black85vette

jolijar  said:
			
		

> is this some trick I don't know about? If so please explain how to turn a 0.500 rod into 0.625 rod. ;D
> 
> on a more serious note does it matter what size I make the bushing?
> 
> Is cold rolled 1018 steel suitable for the valve?
> 
> Also what size tubing should I get for the air inlet?


This is a specialized piece of equipment called a reverse lathe. Instead of making diameters smaller it makes them larger.  :big:  oh: List should say; 3/8" or turn down from 1/2". Bushing is 3/8ths, but it is not at all critical.

Just about anything will work for the valve. Go 12L14 if you want something easy to work with. I also like brass.

Tubing is what ever works for how you are going to connect to it. I use clear plastic line for the air and use a tubing that will make a snug fit.  You can also use the barbed type fitting made for air lines.


----------



## JRPetersen

Hi guys,

I'm new to the forum, and have selected this engine to be my first engine. I began searching to try and find to various materials and found everything but the 1/4 by 1/16th inch brass used for the connecting rods at a reasonable price. The connecting rod brass is difficult to find and when you can find it, is VERY expensive. Are there any possible substitutions for the brass? Maybe aluminum? Great job on the plans! Keep up the good work!

Thanks,

Jeremy


----------



## black85vette

Jeremy; Welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of helpful members here and many of them with tons of experience. So just ask anytime you need to know how to do something.

This engine was designed to be easy and flexible to build. You can substitute almost anything and make it work. You can find flat stock and just cut strips from it. Aluminum will work just fine. Brass was used because it looks good. The key is adapt, substitute and just make it work.

Start a thread on your build so we can follow along. Oh yeah, you also need to know we like pictures! th_wwp


----------



## chucketn

Jeremy, if you're in the US, try a brass door kickplate from Lowe's or Home Depot. Enough material for sveral hundred...

Chuck in E. TN


----------



## JRPetersen

Hi guys, 

Thanks for the great advice, it is much appreciated. 

Black85Vette; Thanks for the advice on the different materials. I had been wondering if they were substitutable. I will be starting a thread shortly. I'll update you when I do. 

Chuck; Great advice! I managed to find one from an old door we removed several years ago. It looks like it will work just fine.

Thanks again,

Jeremy


----------



## shred

FWIW, be very sure the kickplates you get at the store are actually brass and not brass-plated, anodized or some other other scam against humanity. The majority of 'em at my local store are just shamming being brass.


----------



## hakuna

Started my first engine....it's and EZ-Engine!  I began a topic: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=11047.0


----------

