# Speedy's first part. rc airplanes.



## Speedy (Feb 19, 2010)

so today I got to play with the lathe. in my journey to get into RC airplane's on the cheap I had to make a part.
its called a prop saver, the o ring holds the prop on the motor and in a crash it allows the prop to jump off the mount to save you from purchasing another prop.

some may argue that you can buy a prop saver for a small amount of change 2$ from hong kong (but then shipping etc) or 5-8$ in Canada. 
but when you have the material on hand and have a strong interest in building up skills, why not make it yourself! 

sorry I didnt get pics of the prop saver in the making, I tried but I got lost in the amount of fun I was having hehe.

hope you enjoy, the black on in the picture is the one I modeled mine after (it belongs to a friend and will be returned.






I messed up the surface finnish in this picture. but fixed it.





















I love making things 
had to stop to clean up allot, those dang aluminum shavings fly everywhere :big:

the least fun of this was parting it off, the taig part off tool is VERY chattery, it slipped the material in the chuck twice. had to keep a constant flow of tranny oil. I realize I dont have the feel of every tool but is the taig part off tool to large?

soon I am going to make a rc car myself 

ps. is their a more appropriate section for projects that still involve machines?


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## vlmarshall (Feb 19, 2010)

Very nice, congrats.


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## Speedy (Feb 19, 2010)

thanks Vernon.
means allot ;D


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## black85vette (Feb 19, 2010)

Very nice project and useful too. Why buy something you can make without much trouble?

I have found some things that help in parting off.

1. Tool is dead center at the right height and everything tight
2. SLOW spindle speed
3. Work as close to the chuck as possible
4. Really sharp tool
5. Don't let the tool stick out any more than you need to make the cut. 
6. Support the tool as far out as possible
7. Thin blades are easier to cut with than thick

All that being said and it is still my least favorite thing to do on the lathe.


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## Deanofid (Feb 20, 2010)

Looks like you did a great job on it, Speedy. I think you have the right idea in making your own parts, too! What's the fun in buying stuff that you can make yourself, right?

I've used a Taig for years, and don't have any trouble parting off, but I've done a lot of it. It's just something you have to keep your eye on, and practice. 
All the things 'vette mentioned apply. One thing that may have been overlooked, but that I consider the most important aspect, is having your parting tool exactly 90 deg to the chuck face. If it's off even a little, it will bind and grab the sides of the slot that it is trying to cut. It's a good possibility that is the reason it stuck, and turned the work in the chuck jaws.
The second thing on my list would be to lock all the gibs that are not being used. On the Taig lathe, that would mainly mean lock the carriage. Make sure the cross slide gibs are adjusted up well.

I don't know which tool holder you are using. Taig has a couple of them. I use the one that takes a standard 1/4" tool bit mounted up-side-down, and the tool holder is mounted on the back side of the work.  Either kind should work fine, though. Your set up is the most important part.

Dean


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## Russel (Feb 20, 2010)

Nice job! I have considered making a prop saver because I wasn't impressed with the quality of the one that I purchased. The next question: What is the brushless motor complete with homemade prop saver and prop going to be mounted on?


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## Twmaster (Feb 20, 2010)

Nice job on the prop saver. That little Park 400 outrunner will thank you someday.


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## AlasdairM (Feb 20, 2010)

I fly (read crash and repair....) RC planes and helis, and never thought about making a prop saver myself. Will have to do now though - great idea of yours - thanks for sharing. Thm:

All the best, A


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## Speedy (Feb 20, 2010)

thanks everyone ;D

I will try out the parting off when I begin building my recon tank.

the motor is going onto a slow stick, as I am a newb to flying.
some say it may be tad faster then slow with the motor I have :big:


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## Twmaster (Feb 20, 2010)

Oh yea. That Park 400 on a Slow Stick will be a riot to fly. I had a similar setup on the last SS I flew.


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## Russel (Feb 21, 2010)

Speedy  said:
			
		

> ...the motor is going onto a slow stick, as I am a newb to flying.
> some say it may be tad faster then slow with the motor I have :big:



That's what the throttle is for. 

I started with a Hobbyzone J-3 cub. It has a 37.25" wing span and a 370 brushless motor - very easy to fly. You'll have lots of fun with your slow stick.


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## Twmaster (Feb 21, 2010)

Speedy, I just looked at your photos again. I think the biggest issue you have with parting is how far out from the chuck you are. Are you supporting the end of that part with the center of the tailstock?

Ideally you should not be more than 2 maybe three diameters out from the chuck without supporting the end of the workpiece.


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## kf2qd (Feb 21, 2010)

You'll have to start turning the motor bells and flux rings for your own brushless motors. Then you won't have to turn a prop saver - just make it part of the end bell...

Here's my 2 Lazy bees - Big one is 48" and an E-Flight 370, Small one is 36" with a home-made motor (except for the stator...)




And here is a home-made motor mount for mounting on a 1/2" ssquare.





And if you half try you can find all kinds of other things to make.


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## Twmaster (Feb 21, 2010)

WOOT! Blue Foam Bees!


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## Speedy (Feb 22, 2010)

making my own motor would be fun.
 8)


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## vlmarshall (Feb 23, 2010)

Bluefoam is awesome. I've had a lot of fun with it.


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## rake60 (Feb 23, 2010)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> WOOT! Blue Foam Bees!



Them is *LAZY BEES!*

They claim it is impossible to stall a Lazy Bee.
I can do it! 8) 

Nice work Speedy!
Please keep up updated!

Rick


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## Russel (Feb 25, 2010)

I made a prop adapter today, for a propeller with a 4mm hole to fit on a 1.5mm threaded motor shaft. I didn't get any photos of the machining process, but I have photos of the results.

Here is what I used for materials:






Here is the prop with the adapter mounted:






The prop threads onto a 1.5mm shaft so I tapered it a little so that the threads would start easy.






Keep in mind, this is a small plane, it weighs about 1.1 ounces ready to fly. The prop weighs 1.6 grams.


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## Twmaster (Feb 25, 2010)

Ah the Park Zone Sukhoi! 

Nice idea for the adapter.


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## Russel (Feb 25, 2010)

Yup, I can hardly wait to fly tomorrow. The GWS 5043 prop should give it a little more speed over the stock prop. Also, I'll be trying the a Hyperion 130mah battery over the 110mah stock Lipo. :big:


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## Speedy (Feb 26, 2010)

Russel  said:
			
		

> Yup, I can hardly wait to fly tomorrow. The GWS 5043 prop should give it a little more speed over the stock prop. Also, I'll be trying the a Hyperion 130mah battery over the 110mah stock Lipo. :big:



that is a very kool adapter! I love how owning machining tools makes so many ideas possible.

I must say that I am slightly jelous that you get to fly already :big: I still have a list to get mine in the air.
have everything just need to do some soldering, need to make some dubro type linkage adjusters, and then mount everything.

Rick
I will snap a pic of what I have so far for the slow stick 8)

I think the next project is machining these in aluminum.






need to think about how I will mount them onto the servo arm, anyone have ideas?


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## DICKEYBIRD (Feb 26, 2010)

> need to think about how I will mount them onto the servo arm, anyone have ideas?


 .032" music wire z-bend with heat shrink/CA sleeve? Not trying to be flip but ya' gotta think light! (Simplicate & add lightness!)

Those quick connector gizmos are clumsy to adjust & tighten properly in very light airframes. One slip and you crush the fuselage trying to adjust them. I'm just sayin'....


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## Twmaster (Feb 27, 2010)

Not if you grip the ez-connector with a pair of needle nose pliers while tightening.

BTDT. Been flying small electrics for 8 years.


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## Russel (Apr 9, 2010)

Speedy  said:
			
		

> I think the next project is machining these in aluminum.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



This is probably a day late and a dollar short, but maybe it will help.

Here is the servo linkage on my flying wing:





Here is my flying wing:


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## bentprop (Apr 9, 2010)

If you're going to make those EZ connecters yourself,use hex rod,so you can use a small spanner to stop it turning.Also,use brass,not aluminium.The thread will strip real quick in aluminium.
For the screws,use socket caps,to avoid screwdriver slip,and consequent hole in fuse or finger(ouch).Don't ask me how I know this ;D


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