# Tubal Cain Elizabeth



## steamyjim (Jul 1, 2010)

A few weeks ago now, I decided to make a start on an engine from Tubal Cains "Building Simple Model Steam Engines" set of books. I went for the easiest one first; Elizibeth, the horizontal engine, however I do plan to go through and build the lot in the coming year as it should teach me every skill I need to make bits for engines. 

This is my first proper project other than making a couple of USE Engines from castings along with various valves, fittings and replacement parts for my toy steam engine collection so please excuse me for not having perfect workmanship!

Firstly, this is what it will look like when finished.







The Engine Frame. Not happy with the marking out of the port's on this, shall either do it again or make another.











The Engine Frame Supports. Didn't like the way suggested in the book (steel studs with brass covers) so these are solid brass with the top turned down to 4BA and a 4BA threaded hole in the bottom to secure to the base.






With the frame...






]

The Cylinder. The cylinder diameter is slightly larger than the 1/4" bore specified, however I cannot off the top of my head remember the actual size I used. Not much done to this, just faced off then parted off to lenght.


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## steamyjim (Jul 1, 2010)

Steel former...






First attempt at an end cap (awful)...






Second (Left) and third (right) much better...






All three...






An end cap mounted on the former...






Fitted into the boiler, very small boiler, shown next to iPod for scale...






The start of the flywheel...






A couple of brass bushes. Need to make one more, but plan to make two and fit a spare plug...






Everything made so far, including cock ups!






Next to the iPod again to show scale...






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## steamyjim (Jul 1, 2010)

2" Diameter brass flywheel. 1/8" reamed axle hole. Still need to drill and tap the whole for the grub screw to fit in. Not to happy with the finish on the inside chamfer...

Front (with drive pulley)






Back






Quite big!






7/8" dia by 1/8" crank disk. Machine from solid block, then parted off to 1/8". Centre hole tapped 5BA to suit crankshaft. Hole still needs to be drilled for crank pin...again, yet to be made.

Front. (Centre popped for crank pin hole)






Back.






All the bits for the engine unit so far. All brass! The engine unit will only have a stainless steel axle, crank pin and piston rod...the rest will be completely brass! Shall have to make myself some brass nuts for the engine supports as I only have steel ones.


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## steamyjim (Jul 1, 2010)

Have not taken photos yet, but I have silver soldered the boiler together, made the filler plug and the safety valve body, and made a brass chimney cap (not part of the original design) to fit atop the chimney - I plan to mount the chimney with a brass holder as opposed to soldering it too the firebox as shown in the drawing.

Have also been experimenting today with using the Guillotine/Roller/Plate Bender combination with some scrap stainless steel my granddad had to make the firebox.


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## marcel (Jul 1, 2010)

keep up good work   
marcel


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## 4156df (Jul 1, 2010)

Steamyjim,
Elizabeth is looking good so far. Keep the pictures and descriptions coming.
Dennis


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## Blogwitch (Jul 1, 2010)

SJ,

A very good start there, just one comment, if you can, and if it is not too late, obtain a piece of phos bronze (PB1 or preferably Colphos) and remake you boiler bushes out of that. Brass can cause problems sometimes.

I love that pair of Tubal Cain (real name Tom Walshaw, Tubal Cain is a sort of patron saint of metal workers) starter books. I have forgotten the number of times I have lent them out to new machinists wanting to start making engines complete with very simple boilers. Invariably they go out and buy their own copies after they have read thru mine, once the spark is lit. 

They are so cheap, it is not worth not having copies in your shop.

Keep going, and I'm sure you will learn a lot, as well as having a nice looking steam plant by the end of your journey.


Bogs


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## SBWHART (Jul 2, 2010)

Great bit of work Jim 

If you don't already know you can use citric acid or Cola to pickle your boiler after soldering just leave it in for a good length of time.

As John said Tubal Canes books are a great source of plans and instructions one of my First Engines was his Beam Engine Mary. 

I'm planning on building a Tubal Canes engine as a Chistmas presents for my Grandson.

Keep up the good work

Stew


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## steamyjim (Jul 2, 2010)

Thanks for the comments guys! It's appreciated!

@Bogs - I did eye up some phosphor bronze I had in the scrapbox to make my bushes out of. But, I thought I had best go with what it said in the book - I also have a far more plentiful supply of brass over phosphor bronze...next time though, I shall do as you say! ;D

@Bogs and Stew - Yes, the books are brilliant! Have read them so many times! As I say, I plan to build every engine from the book as it should give me all the skills I need to make engines. 

@Stew - I was planning to use vinegar for the pickling process, will this be okay?

I have just taken some photos of the latest work, so shall upload them soon!


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## SBWHART (Jul 2, 2010)

Jim

Lemon juice would be better, you can get the citric acid from the chemist or home brue shop, and I think some supermarkets stock it for baking, just tell them what its for, it comes as a powder not sure at what the ratio is to mix it to. 

John will know.

Not sure what vinegar would do ?.

Stew


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## steamyjim (Jul 2, 2010)

sbwhart  said:
			
		

> Jim
> 
> Lemon juice would be better, you can get the citric acid from the chemist or home brue shop, and I think some supermarkets stock it for baking, just tell them what its for, it comes as a powder not sure at what the ratio is to mix it to.
> 
> ...



Ah, I shall go get some powdered citric acid in the next few days. I used vinegar to pickle some copper tubing after soldering so thought it would be okay to use with the boiler...


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## fcheslop (Jul 2, 2010)

Jim,Keep an eye out for kettle descale in powdered form as its usually citric acid and is loads cheaper than from the chemist but check the instructions .The chemists in my area don't stock citric acid any more due to something or other druggies use it for? but will order it in.
regards


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## steamyjim (Jul 2, 2010)

Here are the latest bits I have done. Again, nothings perfect, but I am happy enough with each bit...

Safety Valve Body. Have yet to make the ball bit as I have no bronze balls at the moment.











Water Filler Plug.






Blanking plug. For use when hydraulic testing the boiler. This has been put in the tool box - I am sure a 1/4" x 40 plug will come in handy at some stage.






Adaptor used for testing the boiler.






Silver Soldered Copper Boiler. Not happy with the silver soldering here, but for my first go, not to bad, don't you think? May make a brass cover or something similar to go over the top to hide it. Any ideas??






Copper Stay.











Cylinder End Cap.






Fitted into Cylinder. As yet, unsoldered.






Crankshaft.






Crank Disk and Crankshaft.






Chimney Cap. Not part of original design. Did this without any drawings, just put some brass in the lathe and experimented. Not perfect, but, who cares! 











I plan to make a displacement lubricator tomorrow. Got a few old Cheddar Models ones that I shall copy. You may ask, why not use on of those...partially because I can't find my 1/4 x 32 tap & die set...but mainly as I plan to make everything on here myself (excluding the steam valve...aulthough, on second thoughts, I have a few drawings of screw valves...  )


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## Deanofid (Jul 2, 2010)

Things are looking very good, Jim.
Can't really see deep into the crevice on the ends of the boiler, so not much to comment on
regarding your soldering job. A pressure test should prove it out!

Keep up the good work!

Dean


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## steamyjim (Jul 2, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Things are looking very good, Jim.
> Can't really see deep into the crevice on the ends of the boiler, so not much to comment on
> regarding your soldering job. A pressure test should prove it out!
> 
> ...



Thanks Dean! I have pressure tested the boiler and it holds, I just however feel the job could have been neater. I think with a bit more practice I should be able to do a better job! ;D

Jim


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## Deanofid (Jul 2, 2010)

steamyjim  said:
			
		

> I think with a bit more practice I should be able to do a better job! ;D
> Jim



No doubt you're right, Jim. That's how it is with all of us. For everything!

Dean


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## mklotz (Jul 2, 2010)

> I think with a bit more practice I should be able to do a better job!



I used to tell my girlfriends the same thing.


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## dsquire (Jul 2, 2010)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> I used to tell my girlfriends the same thing.



And what did they say Marv? :hDe:

Back on topic

Jim

Looks like a pretty good job to me. Every time you do a soldering job it will get easier and neater. :bow: :bow:

Cheers 

Don


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## deverett (Jul 14, 2010)

Jim

One tip to stop the solder going where you don't want it to:
Use TipEx (I've only used the solvent type) or even just a lead pencil and paint/rub on areas outside the soldering boundary before you flux up. You will find that the solder will not stick to places that have been so treated.

Anyway, you seem to be doing a good job so far on your silver soldering (brazing).

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## tel (Jul 14, 2010)

Yeah, there's not much wrong with that silver soldering job - you should have seen some of my early efforts! The rest of it is coming along nicely as well.


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 14, 2010)

Jim:
 Looks like you are doing s fine job of your first build . And at 16 a fine start indeed . I would expect granddad is giving a bit of advise and teaching along the way maybe even a bit of help. I tell folks this is easy stuff any five year old can do it with ten years experience. 
I think we can all look at our projects and see room for improvement. Keep moving forward do not sweat the details too much on the first build but lok for safety and funtion. Form will come. 
Tin


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