# The Drill Doctor



## rake60 (Aug 17, 2007)

This tool gets as much use as any other in my home shop.





It's the Drill Doctor model 350X drill bit sharpener.
It will sharpen bits from 3/32" to 1/2" quickly and perfectly every time.
Most bits over 1/8" I am perfectly capable of sharpening by hand on a 
bench grinder.  When I can put it into this little machine, twist it a few 
times and it's done, why bother?  I have bits that are quite literally 1/2
their original length that still drill straight, clean and on size thanks to 
this little tool.
It would be nice if it could handle smaller sizes, but then again when the 
real small bits fail there usually isn't much left to sharpen.   

Rick


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## tattoomike68 (Aug 17, 2007)

I have a cheapo knock off one that hooks to a power drill. I never used it though.

Many people swear by them, I will have to rig mine up and try it out.


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## lugnut (Aug 17, 2007)

Rick did you have to tweek the Drill Dr. a little to get it to work right?  I've heard stories.  I've been thinking about one because my poor old eyes ain't as good as they once was.  I generaly get by pretty well by hand but now with all these little holes in the model engines, I think it's time.  
I see your's is the 350 model.  Do you think that's the best one?  I know they make a 500 and a 750, Have you tried either of those?
Mel


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## rake60 (Aug 17, 2007)

I didn't have to make any adjustment to mine.  It worked perfectly right
out of the box.

The only real difference between the 350X and 500X is the more 
expensive 500X grinds a 135 degree point as opposed to the standard
118 degree point.  My hand grinding gage is 59 degrees so even my
hand sharpened bits are 118.   Drill Doctor has a model comparison chart
available at *Drill Doctor Model Chart* that explains the differences.


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 17, 2007)

I have had a drill doctor for a while one of the older 500s. I would like to have one of the new ones because the bugs have been fixed. the old one has not really paid for it self yet. IMHO the 350 model is too limiting the 500 is adjustable for a couple different angles and it will do split point bit near impossible by hand. The 750 has an extra tool holder for 1/2 to 3/4 bits.  and a little rack to hold the bit holders. Depending on price differences IMHO the 500 is the best suited to the home shop. it has the flexibility. and anything above 1/2 inch is relatively easy to hand grind.
Tin


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## rake60 (Aug 17, 2007)

Tin do you use a lot of split point or 135 degree bits?
I never have but I'm old and set in my ways.    

My best set of TiN coated bits cost me about $100 
The 350X can be found on sale for $60  
Best price I've ever seen on the 500X was $150

I don't think it would pay for it's self in my shop, but it is an interesting
subject.  Who else uses 135 or split point bits, and why?


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## IanN (Aug 19, 2007)

Hi Rake60

If you look at the 'point' of a drill bit you see that the point is really a short flat line. Split point - or four facet drill point as it is called in the UK - removes the 'land' at the point of the drill and makes it much easier to locate the point of the drill.

When done properly a four facet drill can be used on intersecting scribed lines with no need to centre punch the location. 

Ian.


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 19, 2007)

Rake: 
    the 500 can be had for $ 99- 120 
http://www.gosale.com/4931395/drill-doctor-500x?gclid=CNa3mZXOgo4CFSgRGgodJVxeLw

As Ian said the split point reduces the tendency of the drill bit to walk. One of the shops I worked at used a lot of drill bits and tended not to sharpen them . Good stuff ,American made. When I left the boss gave the scrap bits a couple of 3lb coffee cans full. That is why I bought the drill doctor. the 135 angle is better on hard tough material.  I used to have to drill out inconell rivets on aircraft engine parts. Also one shop I worked at we worked with some tough alloy steel pre- hardened to around a RC 38 . We drilled and bored on the cnc. Some of the parts we started the hole with a 5/16 135 degree split point. 
If you work with stainless you know how important dead sharp tools are IMO a drill doctor and split point 135s are the way to go for accurate efficient work. Once the bit gets dull and stops cutting the ss work hardens quickly then you have an uphill battle. 

Sell your 350 on ebay for more than you paid for it and buy a 500x LOL.
BTW sears has the DD500X for $110 buy it on line pick up at the local store. 
Tin


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## rake60 (Aug 19, 2007)

See, your showing how set in my ways I really am. 
For the past 29 years every hole has been centerdrilled before drilling 
with a 118 degree bit.    I'll have to try a few 135's!


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## Hilmar (Aug 30, 2007)

Tin,

It works for me.I use it quit a bit. That is the old 500.
But the I find out: You send the old one back and for $65.00 you
will get the latest model in return. Now you have a 750.
I did and it comes with one chuck, for 1/8 -3/4 .
Much better and more adjustments.
It will be the latest model
Hilmar


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## Davyboy (Sep 1, 2007)

I've used a DD750 at work.  IMHO it's a total POS.  tried for 3 hours, got about 4 good drill bits out of it. Yes i paid attention to flute location, collet technique, and uniform "feel" when sharpening.  the flutes came out different, clearance came out backwards, randomly.  FWIW : YES I did read the instructions.  My money will buy packages of commonly used drills that are too small to sharpen by hand, and toss them when dull.  sizes like #29 (Enco 300-0329) for $0.39 each.  I can do 3/16 drills OK or a little smaller, but if I need tapped holes fine threads, then a new point and on size holes make a difference.


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## Tin Falcon (Sep 1, 2007)

Hilmar:
 thanks for the tip was not aware of the trade in deal. I also considered offering the old 500 to a friend for the trade in value. 
I just invested in a craftsman tool set and also  was just at a model engine show and spent a bit from the tool fund something to think about though.
Tin


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## rake60 (Sep 2, 2007)

Davyboy said:
			
		

> IMHO it's a total POS.



I've never gotten a bad result from mine.  Maybe I just got lucky and 
got a good one?  If you can't get a repeatable answer to your efforts I'd
think you have a defective unit.   Theyre pretty much idiot proof.
I'd be suggesting your purchaser e-mail Drill Doctor if everyone there is
having the same issue.

There is one application were we can not use the bit sharpener we have
at work.  That is on a few of the special long bits.  They have a different 
twist rate and the machine will not line the flutes up properly.  

Rick


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## Davyboy (Sep 3, 2007)

Rick, you may be onto something, I'm not the first or only one to use that machine.  Some of the other guys are pretty rough.  I still wouldn't have a DD in my shop.

Dave


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## wareagle (Oct 14, 2007)

I got a DD750X from my better half a while back, and haven't used it until today. I broke a small bit and thought that I would try it out and see if it would do a good job.  I went through all of the instructions, set up the broken bit, and went at it.  I had to reset the bit in the chuck once to finish up the tip, but it came out perfectly.

Blind luck?  Hmmm....    :? 

So, I went to the old bit bin where there are several dozen "tired" drill bits, and grabbed probably 10 and sharpened them.  Every time, they came out perfect.  I did the split point on several, and that takes a little more effort to make sure both sides match, but it still is easily done.

Well, for the true test.  I popped a few holes in some scrap steel, and each hole came out to size, and the bits produced a chip just like a new bit would.

My observations:  What I can see with the unit is that it is easy to use, but one needs to be methodical in setting the bits up before grinding.  Also, there is a "feel" to it, or at least I think so.  It is easy to miss a simple step which would yield an undesirable result.  In my opinion, this little unit looks like it will save some time and money going forward.

All the usual disclaimers, no affiliation, your mileage may vary, TT&L due upon signing, some assembly required, may not be available in all states, read your warning labels before using the product, this product may cause side effects, blah, blah blah....


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## shred (Oct 14, 2007)

I'm about as far from an expert as you can get, but my DD's turned bits that didn't cut for anything into bits that drill holes about as well as I can.  Now  I  need one that can fix all the tiny bits I've been snapping lately...


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## wareagle (Oct 14, 2007)

shred,

I did a couple of 1/8" bits yesterday, and they cut very well.  IIRC, the literature says they will sharpen down to a 3/32" bit.  Any smaller, and it is probably just as cheap to replace the bits as it is to sharpen them.

BTW  Where are you located at?  I see we share some of the same dirt.


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## lugnut (Oct 14, 2007)

Well after reading you guys praise of the DD last night, I checked a few prices on the internet.  I'm still not sure just how it happened :roll:  but my new DD 750 will be here some time later this coming week. $129 and they (Ammazon.com) pay the shipping.
I'll let you know how it works
Mel


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## wareagle (Oct 14, 2007)

lugnut,

I think you will be pleased.  Just read through the directions (mine came with a DVD).  There are a few little procedures that must be followed to get the desired results.

Congats, and let us know what you think!


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## shred (Oct 15, 2007)

wareagle said:
			
		

> shred,
> 
> I did a couple of 1/8" bits yesterday, and they cut very well.  IIRC, the literature says they will sharpen down to a 3/32" bit.  Any smaller, and it is probably just as cheap to replace the bits as it is to sharpen them.
> 
> BTW  Where are you located at?  I see we share some of the same dirt.


Yeah, I've repaired some 1/8" bits, can't remember if I tried anything smaller.  The trouble with the tiny bits is they're cheap, but the minimum is usually a dozen per size and I tend to scatter my breakages around different sizes...

Btw, I'm in Austin.


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## rake60 (Oct 15, 2007)

If I have to drill a deep or critical hole, the bit gets a run through the 
Drill Doctor before it goes in the collet or chuck every time.
I think you'll find you use it a lot Mel.

I remember the day I bought mine.  2 hours in the shop, sharpening every
bit I could find, and then looking for more! LOL
Guess that's what happens when you give an old kid a new toy... :roll: 

Rick


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## georgeseal (Oct 15, 2007)

I have one of the first one's that came out.
Every time I sharpen a bit I test it before I put every thing away.
Last night was tapping some 6-32 holes and bit got dull so I broke out the Dr.. Took three tries to get bit to cut but then it went in like butter

Over on the other site everyone hollers don't buy a Drill Dr. buy a Darex. :evil: 

Guess what mine is made by Darex  model DD750SP :shock: 


George


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## Lew Hartswick (Oct 15, 2007)

yea, George, I have one that I got when the engineer from Darex offered
several free to folks that would give him a reason  for needing one back
when they were just released. I guess it must have been 12 yrs or so ago.
He posted on, I think, Rec.Crafts.metalworking.  It is a 750 also. Works 
for me like a champ. And I can't complain about the price.   I don't know
what all the complaining was about on several news groups and BBs. I 
think some folks just don't have the required "nack" of setting the bit to 
align with the spring jaws or don't control the twisting / turning  motion
correctly. Now there is one problem. If the flutes are either extra fast 
or slow spiral the indexing dosent set the bit right .
   ...lew...


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## wareagle (Oct 16, 2007)

The Darex units look very nice.  What are those things going for?



			
				shred said:
			
		

> Btw, I'm in Austin.



shred, I am in Fort Worth.  Haven't located anyone up here doing this sort of stuff,yet.  I am sure there is, though.


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## Mcgyver (Oct 18, 2007)

Couple of questions for the DD users....

In grinding a spit point, you're grinding a corner , ie two intersecting planes, vs other points where you are grinding in one plane.  Doesn't this require using the corner of a wheel and it so how does it stand up over over time (without dressing)?  

along the same lines, anyone know what types of wheels & dressings are used in commercial split point grinding?  unless there's a special wheel, I wonder you they keep the corner sharp without constant dressing?

Secondly, I've always been told do not use diamond on anything ferrous other than say at hand lapping speeds to so as to prevent carbon absorption.  Yet the DD says it uses a diamond wheel??  I guess they mustn't wear out quickly or you guys wouldn't be happy, but it seems contrary to accepted diamond cutting tool use - anyone have any insight on this?


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## georgeseal (Oct 18, 2007)

Mc,

The wheel is diamond on metal wheel. $19.00 new I have three that I have bought at discount . Had mine about 8 years and still on orginal wheel. Wheel can be rotated 180 degrees to give you life of two wheels. I am now on the second part of the wheel.

Older versions had alignment problems but I think they have been addressed as of late.
After sharpening I always test drill to see if bit will cut ( test hole may be the one you want to keep  :lol: 

George


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## lugnut (Oct 23, 2007)

My new DD -750X just came in the mail.  I've watched the CD instruction movie and now I will take it out to the shop and give it a test drive.  Will let you know what I think about it later
Wish me luck
 :roll: Mel


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## wareagle (Oct 23, 2007)

One thing that I have noticed with mine is that cleanliness makes a huge difference.  It the chuck has grit in it, or the other surfaces have some in the corners, it really seems to affect the quality of the bit.  I have found that blowing it off with compressed air (20-25lbs) is enough to keep that bits coming out perfect.

I don't think I will give mine up!  It has earned its place in my shop.


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## macona (Oct 24, 2007)

I have one of the old 750 models. Works OK. Not great, OK.

In 135 degree mode it cuts way to flat. Clearance is not great and the edge of the wheel does not have a sharp enough edge to split points correctly.

I also have a Lisle (Pronounce Lyle). Works well bt takes a while to set up for each bit.

http://www.lislecorp.com/grinder_index.cfm


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## dgjessing (Oct 24, 2011)

Sorry for reviving such an old thread, but I just received my DD 500X today and I gotta say I'm quite impressed with it so far. Went through my badly damaged 29 piece HF set and those I sampled cut like new - better than new in some cases, as the HF bits are not exactly top shelf...

There is definitely a "feel" that must be developed to operate the thing correctly, but with a little practice it does a fine job. Got it from these guys for slightly less than $100 US: http://myworld.ebay.com/greatbrandmerchandisesquaredeal


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## dreeves (Oct 24, 2011)

I have the 750X and love it. It took a tumble off the bench and the steel adjustment bolt broke. I called Drill Doctor and explained that the problem was with the operator not the machine. They put a new knob in the mail and got it 2 days later all for just a 5 min toll free call. I also love that a person answers the phone with just a few prompts. 

Dave


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## lathe nut (Oct 24, 2011)

I was glad to see a post about the drill doctor, I got the 750 and some extra stones, worked great till I tried to remove the stone and this photo show what happen,(the motor shaft comes up and cannot remove the stone) so I am a little troubled I want to buy made in America so I called them they were very nice and sent me another one, so the returned crossed the new on one in the mail got the second one and the same thing, now I feel like I might call them and see what difference I could give them to get a good one, I did love it shame on my for not calling when the one came out, hope it works out will post the results, Lathe Nut


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## MachineTom (Oct 25, 2011)

I've had the DD500 for 10 years +, many bits have been sharpened, strolling though HD one day I found the they were selling the 3/4 chucks for $10. After purchasing the chuck I gave it a try, and although it works the small size of the motor and wheel, takes forever to clean up a burned bit. I have an industrial grinder now, but use the DD for everything under 3/8". 

I used to hand grind my big bits, and thought I did good, but compared to the way my Mohawk sharpen's a bit, there is no comparison, the industrial machine is so much better. Recently I've been selling used taper shank drills, most have been hand sharpened, it is easy to tell from the sound of the grinder how unequal the points on the hand sharpened drills are.


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## Allthumbz (Oct 25, 2011)

Great information regarding the DD- sounds that the consensus is that the 750 is the model to buy- they had a sale on them at Enco not too long ago. 

Seems that there is also a slight learning curve, but nothing extraordinary. How long would it take a newbie to turn out decently sharpened drills on this?

Nelson


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 26, 2011)

I may hamentioned before I have an older 500. the difference between the 500 and 750 is the second larger collet. 
Tin


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## prof65 (Oct 27, 2011)

Another happy owner of the 750x here.

Nelson, don't worry, just read and follow the manual carefully and you'll have a good sharpened bit at the first attempt.

Roberto


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## ref1ection (Oct 27, 2011)

I have to agree with the majority, the 750 is a great sharpener. The only bad bits I've had were when I was careless setting them up. By the way the one I bought has one collet that be used all the way up to 3/4".

Ray


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## ironman (Oct 27, 2011)

Where I live, Home Depot online has the 500X for under 90 bucks and Lowes has in store the "XP" for 100 bucks.

Anyone know anything about the XP model? Sounds similar to the 500.

Thanks,

Ray (ironman)


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## Gordon (Oct 28, 2011)

I just ordered a 750 for $124 on eBay. I have been using a Black and Decker #4300 for years and I have had good luck with it. Yesterday I was careless and ground off the drill locator and found that the unit is obsolete and that part is not available so I started looking at the DD. There is a guy who sells an aftermarket locator for $17 + $4.50 shipping but that seems rather expensive. I hope that the DD works as well as the B&D.


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## rhankey (Oct 28, 2011)

This thread inspired me to buy a DD 750X too for the same $124 price on eBay, which also included a bonus of a handful of small spare drill bits that will come in handy replacing a couple that I have broken. I am still new to metal working and am still working with minimal tooling, but I'm making a lot of parts out of SS which seems to be wearing bits out quickly. I have had to be increasingly careful feeding some of the bits into holes as more and more bits are feeling and sounding like they are on the verge of breaking and are not producing very good shavings. Breaking a bit is the last thing I want after investing countless hours on a making the part. So, in a few days I plan on an extended drill bit sharpening session.


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## ironman (Nov 2, 2011)

Just got my DD500X this afternoon. Got 122 bits sharpened so far. It has already paid for itself now. Glad this thread was started.

Ray


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## kd4gij (Nov 9, 2011)

I have had the 750 classic every scence sears started carring them. it worked fine right out of the box. came with 2 chucks and a fine wheel installed anda corse wheel. Never needed to try the corse wheel the fine has worked fine up to 3/4" bits. I only buy the cheaper jobber drills now a couple of twist in the DD and thay as good as any. And it would be real simple to make a wheel puller if nedded.


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## bob ward (Nov 11, 2011)

I have the 750X, and while it is useful its definitely not fool proof, I do need to keep an eye on it. Cleanliness of the chuck is one thing, the other is have the adjustment screw so that you have the shortest amount of drill bit sticking out of the chuck and yet still reach the grinding wheel. I was finding that if I had too much drill out of the chuck I was sometimes getting negative rake right on the cutting edge, only 10thou or so but enough that the shiny freshly ground bit would not cut. That was a real head scratcher until I started looking at the edges with a strong magnifying glass.

For that reason, when I think I've got a good grind I usually dye the end of the bit, reset it in the collet, then give it a couple more twists in the DD and check that I don't have a fine line of dye along the cutting edge


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## Ken I (Nov 11, 2011)

I've been hand shapening forever - including split points - flat ends - whathaveyou. But the MkI eyeballs just aint what they used to be.

Every drill grinding gizmo I have ever tried (apart from real serious industrial stuff) has been a dissapointment.

I have been eyeing a Drill Doctor (suspiciously) for some time - thanks for the thread guys - I think I'll give it the benefit of the doubt and buy one.

A question...

Will that diamond coated wheel handle solid carbide drills - it should - does anyone have any experience ?

Regards,
      Ken


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 11, 2011)

Do not see why not. my DD has a masonry bit setting (carbide tip). And diamond wheel is designed for carbides not steel. 
Tin


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## SmoggyTurnip (Nov 14, 2011)

I have never sharppened carbided drill bits with it but I use it all the time to sharpen those cheap chinese boring bars that I sometimes use. I just take the cover of the DD and stick the boaring bar into the small diamond wheel. I have sharpened about 35 boring bars with it several times and it still works great sharpening the drill bits too. I have the 750.


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## ttrikalin (Nov 14, 2011)

i bought one yesterday -- mainly because of what I read here. I will play with it this weekend... 

take care, 

tom in MA.


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## kwoodhands (Nov 15, 2011)

Small bits and short bits can be sharpened with the Drill doctor. I drilled a #57 drill in one end of a 5/16" x4" scrap round stock. On the other end the hole is #53 drill.On the round side I drilled and tapped 5/44x1/8" set screws to hold the drill. 
Now the drill bit can be inserted and turned holding the round stock to engage the flute clamps.I have made several of these scrap tools. The #57 drill works for #57-58-59 and 60.The #54 also works for #55 and 56 drills. I made enough to go down to 1/16" .The set screws should be close to one end so small drills can be extended enough to sharpen.
I had contacted Drill Doctor at one time offering this method. I figured they could either add it to the original tool or just instructions on making it.Although many users do not have the tooling to make it. They weren't really interested,most people do not use the small drills and when they get dull or break buy new ones.
Hopefully this will help someone .


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## ttrikalin (Nov 24, 2011)

Do you have a photo to help visualize? 

I am very interested in what you have to say... 

take care,
tom in MA


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## dalem9 (Nov 24, 2011)

Great idea thanks for sharing . Dale


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## radfordc (Jan 1, 2012)

I got a Drill Doctor for Christmas and tried it out this morning. I sharpened a couple of sets of old drill bits and they all came out very good.


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## smfr (Jan 1, 2012)

I got the low-end model on sale at Lowes for $35 recently. It did resurrect a few old bits, but the finish seems pretty coarse.


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## lampy (Jan 3, 2012)

I picked up a Drill doctor a couple weeks ago and am happy with it. I do wish the grinding wheel was a finer grit,however it does seem to be getting better with use. The more I use it the better the finish gets.


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## Ken I (Jan 9, 2012)

Got one for Xmas and just got round to trying it out.

Like smfr I found the finish to be a little coarse - probably just the "sharp" diamond wheel and should improve with use as mentioned by Lampy.

I am impressed by the simplicity of it - but still does an excellent job.

I resharpened my carbide drills (chipped from drilling out all sorts of broken things) - worked fine.

I must admit that I was skeptical (every other drill sharpening gizmo I have tried has been a fiasco) but I'm converted - I'm impressed.

Ken


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## rleete (Jan 9, 2012)

Based on this thread, I decided to get one. eBay, $35 shipped. Frankly, I was expecting to be disappointed, but wow! I'm convinced that I should have gotten one years ago, as I would have saved quite a few bits that I broke because they were dull.

Very impressed with the finish I got, and the angles appear to be right on. Tried a sharpened one in the lathe, and it cuts better than new, with the curls coming off evenly and smoothly. I'm a believer!


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## vcutajar (Jan 9, 2012)

So now I am getting interested. Which model are you talking about? The 500 or 750?


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## brt (Jan 9, 2012)

This thread got me to look at Craigslist for one. I got lucky - got a 750 for $45 from a guy in Philly - almost brand new. Set it up, tried it on an epically dull bit - it worked like a charm! Next weekend, I'll be going over all my old bits.


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## Groomengineering (Jan 9, 2012)

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> So now I am getting interested. Which model are you talking about? The 500 or 750?



They are the same unit, the 500 includes a holding collet for up to 1/2" (.500") while the 750 includes a collet for up to 3/4" (.750").

Cheers

Jeff


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## prof65 (Jan 9, 2012)

There are some other differences, see here:

500X

http://www.drilldoctor.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tabs.intl.tpl&product_id=2649&category_id=77&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=129

750X

http://www.drilldoctor.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tabs.intl.tpl&product_id=2662&category_id=77&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=144


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