# Stuart 8



## WokaUK (Apr 20, 2014)

Dear All,

I have been given an incomplete set of castings for a Stuart 8 (I think).

My workshop consists of an ML7 lathe and a pillar drill, I would also describe myself as a beginner in terms of my machining ability.  

Is my work shop equipment sufficient?
Is the Stuart 8 a suitable engine for a beginner


I note from Stuart web site that plans and spare castings are available, could anyone confirm that I have most of a Stuart 8?

Thanks,

WokaUK




Malvern UK


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 20, 2014)

According to Stuart the no 8 can be machined on a 3 1/2" lathe Ie 7" swing so should be fine on a myford 7
. tin


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 20, 2014)

> I note from Stuart web site that plans and spare castings are available, could anyone confirm that I have most of a Stuart 8?



I suggest you measure the fly wheel and bore. the 8 and 10H are pretty close in design .

the 8 is a little larger than the 10H   

3 1/2 fw vs 3"
1" bore vs 3/4
8 1/2 long vs 6"

As far as a beginner engine the 10H is sold as a beginner engine. 
Harold halls web sight has step by step instructions for the 10H also there is a book. 
I suggest if you are not sure  if s a casting set is right for a first engine do a couple simple bar stock engines first. 

The set looks pretty complete. the only thing missing is the sub base so you can buy the casting from Stuart or make one . Also keep in mind these kits vary over time . My 10H kit has fewer castings and substitutes bar stock for some parts, like the crank shaft and the cylinder caps. 
Tin


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## rhankey (Apr 20, 2014)

It looks like a Stuart #8 and some sort of oscillator engine in those photos.  If you are not confident of your abilities to tackle the #8 right away, how about tackling the oscillator engine first - assuming you have plans for it.  Oscillators are much easier to make.


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## WokaUK (Apr 22, 2014)

Thanks for the information, I don't have the oscillator plans either any thoughts on what it is? 

My thoughts stray towards making the oscillator though, not wanting to mess up my castings just yet.

Thanks again,

WokaUK


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## WokaUK (May 1, 2014)

I used the cylinder and piston to make an oscillating engine. Photo attached. I made it up as I went along and to be honest was surprised when it worked (on compressed air).  It took me hours!

Regards
Woka


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## RonGinger (May 1, 2014)

That bed casting does not look like a #8. How about a measurement, or a photo with a scale in it. I will try to get a  photo of my finished #8 from the top view.


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## Tin Falcon (May 2, 2014)

> I made it up as I went along and to be honest was surprised when it worked (on compressed air). It took me hours!



Good for you !! looks like the classic Lucy without the lucite. 

Plans are out there. 

Always exciting to see the new one run the first time. 

And yes they take hours. my first two started on a Saturday and finished the following Saturday. IIRC Gary  from PM estates 40 hours for a mill engine. 
there is a guy in the UK brags he can build a  10h in 8 hours (with pre machined jigs)  enjoy the sucess. 
Tin


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## WokaUK (May 2, 2014)

Thanks for taking the time to check out my castings, I have attached a photo of the casting next to a ruler.  Incidentally the castings could be approx 50 years old!


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## rhankey (May 3, 2014)

It does look like an older #8 to me.  A side view of the casting would also help confirm the vintage.  The older #8's stood a little taller than the newer #8's.  Yours looks too tall for a modern #8, but it is hard to say for sure from the angle of the photos.


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## RonGinger (May 3, 2014)

Ok, I must be loosing it. I posted a photo here of my engine, then had a bad feeling and looked it up- I was thinking number 9, not 8. You may be right that you have a #8, Im not sure. I do now realize it is not a number 9


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## Tin Falcon (May 4, 2014)

Looks like an 8 the main casting on a 10 is smaller like 4 1/2 inches.

tin


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## WokaUK (May 6, 2014)

Side view of bed casting for identification.




I was intending to purchase the drawings of the no 8 from Stuart, which I think rather expensive at £17.50 with VAT and postage. I am rather concerned that I would be wasting my cash as I seem to have the "old" no. 8.  


Are there many differences and is it likely that the current drawings will give me enough of a guide to make the engine?  I don't think that I have any other option.

Perhaps I should make another engine the (S50 perhaps?) to increase my experience before making it up as I go along with the no 8.

Thanks, 
Woka


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## tomol409 (Jul 9, 2014)

Having made a No8 I can confirm that the set is for this engine.  Missing is the important connecting rod casting.  These are available from Stuarts but are around 
£12.  The rod could be cut out of thick brass.  Also there are no fixings and these are expensive at around £15 the set.  They are all 5BA and 7BA and taps and dies could be obtained from Tracy Tools for less and would be re-usable, if you do not have them available.  I could email you copies of the plans but I do not know how.  These are normally over £10 the set.  You can download the castings, materials and fixings list from the Stuart website.  Harold Hall's instructions for the 10V engines are excellent.  Google Harold Hall and you should get there.   I think that with this help you could tackle the engine as a first attempt, as most of the setting up is very well covered. This sort of help was unavailable to beginners in the past.  You could fabricate the box bed from wood if necessary - costing nothing.


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## tomol409 (Jul 9, 2014)

I do not think there would be much difference between an old and a new No 8 design if in fact these exist.    The S50 would be pretty much the same to build as the No 8 anyway.  Beware of the crankshaft casting which originally was made of very soft malleable cast iron. Make sure it is supported between the webs when machining the ends of the shaft.  Grind a smal notch in the middle of your parting tool when doing the crankpin to help prevent a dig in.  Radius the corners also to create a small fillet at either side of the pin.


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## WokaUK (Jul 25, 2014)

I have purchased the drawings and am now avoiding starting the build, in the mean time I have made an simple indexing attachment so that I can use the my change wheels as a divider.

Thanks for the advice  so far.

Woka


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## craigyboy (Aug 13, 2014)

I've done much the same, I'm a beginner, I've completed a Stuart Oscillator engine and decided to start the number 8 from Stuart. I've found precious little on the internet detailing the number 8 and if I did it again I'd start a 10V first, but I've started so I'll finish... There are good tutorials on YouTube (TinkerJohn) and Harold Hall's site. Also the book Building a Vertical Steam Engine from Castings is useful.


May the swarf be with you!


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## workshopman (Aug 15, 2014)

I know I am coming in rather late but thanks to those who have mentioned the article on making a 10V/H on my web site. This shows both engines being made using just a lathe and small drilling machine, the lathe being even smaller than a Myford.
The pages have around 80 photographs showing the various setups to back up the text. To enable anyone interested to go directly to the pages the following will take you there. 

http://www.homews.co.uk/page42.html

For those not conversant with my web site there are around 600 pages (mostly metalworking) with the best place to start being the book style index at  http://www.homews.co.uk/page463.html

Sorry that I only make occasional visits to the forum but with many other forums also giving me a mention I do feel obligated to look in at them all at some time.
Harold Hall


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