# Maryak 10



## Maryak (Dec 29, 2008)

Hi All,

Well here we go again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





I wondered should this be.... "Bore along with Bob" or "Metal Mayhem with Maryak" :

Take your pick. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. As it is my design a running engine at the end will be a real bonus.

For those who have been following the marking out thread, today's effort may have some relevance. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







The expensive lumps from which M10 will be attempted.






The setup for marking out, the marking out table is a piece of plate glass.











The end elevation of the drawing transferred to the metal. The profile centre pops are so I don't lose all my hard work when throwing it from bench to lathe to mill and back again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









The cut marks so I can hack off a usable lump.






Hacking off said usable lump.






The bit which I hope will be the crankcase ready for setting up in the lathe.






And that brings me to the end of day 1.

Best Regards
Bob


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## NickG (Dec 29, 2008)

Wow! I don't have the confidence to hack into a lump of metal like that! This is going to be fantastic! How long are you expecting this project to take? That is another problem of mine ... I lose patience!

Anyway, much respect for getting stuck into such a challenging project, I will be definitely be following it, hats off :bow:

Nick


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 29, 2008)

Nice going Bob. I like your power hacksaw. I'll be watching for updates on this one.

Cheers,


Phil


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## Bernd (Dec 29, 2008)

I want to know how the green peas enter into this mark out program. 

Is that in case you run out of blue dye? You smear the green peas all over and get a green layout dye? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Bernd


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## Maryak (Dec 29, 2008)

Good Morning,

Nick,

Yes you do, just don't walk away during the process and stop when you get to your marks. Due to the angles involved the lump was rotated and reversed to get as close as possible to the cut lines. It was then finished off with a hand hacksaw and finally a hammer and chisel to fracture the last section in the middle still holding on.

Phil,

Yes an oldy but goody, made locally in Adelaide in 1937 it's a Junior version with a 12" blade and a 6" x 6" cut. It was given to me!! A couple of new bushes, new belts and a coat of paint, probably good for another 70 years.

Bernd,

The green peas are an integral part of my operations. They are stand by fuel for my gas torch, (by a round about method), and can be used to good effect to deter unwanted shop visitors by the same circuitous route.


Thanks for your input guys. :bow:
Best Regards
Bob


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## T70MkIII (Dec 29, 2008)

Looking forward to seeing more, Bob.


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## gjn (Dec 29, 2008)

Bob, Can you explain what type of engine this one's going to be? 

That's a hefty lump of ally you have there, I went down to Capral to get some stock the other day - obviously I haven't bought aluminium for some time as I almost needed oxygen when they told me the price!

Can't wait to see the progress.


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## Maryak (Dec 30, 2008)

T70MkIII,

A little more shortly 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




gjn,

I am hopeful it will be another diesel 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




, 10cc with a front rotary inlet valve. Have a look in http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3629.0, may give you a better idea.

Thanks Guys for your interest and support.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak (Dec 30, 2008)

As gjn said, "Its a hefty lump of ally" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I found out just how hefty when I set it up. There was a lot of imbalance and it was impossible to run the lathe faster than 200 rpm without it chasing me round the shop. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




The good old method of slow down and take bigger cuts sure proved its worth, at 200 rpm the best I felt happy with was 0.060," at 120 rpm 0.125" was a breeze. If you do the sums you'll soon see which removes the most metal in a given time. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Still took a while and this is where I ended up.

The setup






The 1st reduction.






Rest day tomorrow to prepare myself for New Years Eve.

Best Regards
Bob


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## jack404 (Dec 30, 2008)

Go Bob!!!

happy new year to you and yours

jack


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## tel (Dec 30, 2008)

Well Bob. I'll give you a 'P' for perseverance, if nothing else ;D

Happy Gnu Yar from me as well


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## Maryak (Dec 30, 2008)

Jack and Tel,

Thanks gents and a Happy New Year 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










To you and Yours

Best Regards
Bob


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 30, 2008)

That looks like an awesome turning job Bob. Bet you're glad it's that far along. Doing two WIP's in a row is worth :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Cheers and happy new year,


Phil


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## Maryak (Dec 30, 2008)

Phil,

Thanks for your support again.

Happy New Year to You and Yours 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak (Jan 1, 2009)

Hi All,

Got a lot and a little done today - a lot in the amount of metal removed 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 - a little in the way of much change in appearance 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Gotta say its gunna be quite a large engine - a real beast if it runs. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




The second reduction of the output housing of the crankcase.






Parting off to length.






Ready for transfer to the 3 jaw.






More metal removal - Reducing the OD and deriving setting points for the vertical axis.






And that's it until Tuesday.


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## Maryak (Jan 6, 2009)

Hi All,

Another day of metal removal, first from the model and second from the shop - 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







. I was knee deep in ally swarf.

The crankcase OD reduced to the witness marks + a bee's wing for luck. This gave a little better balance and was able to speed up the lathe one notch to 200 rpm.






A rough guide for the end cover plate boss. (Note the gouge mark where I advanced the tool without paying attention to the X slide position) :wall:






The end cover boss.






Drilling through the crankcase.






The crankcase drilling is complete.






After counterboring for the crankshaft, I think I will tackle some milling next on the outside of the crankcase. As I am machining away, I am starting to think that a jig to hold the crankcase might be a good idea to allow me to hold it more easily and accurately whilst I machine the cylinder and also while I bore out the nose for the crankshaft bushes.

For now it's back to the drawing board to further modify porting etc.

See Ya


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## T70MkIII (Jan 6, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

>



That's one huge camshaft lobe, Bob. This engine is going to be a monster!


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## Maryak (Jan 6, 2009)

You got it  Look good on a V18 Pielstik :big:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak (Jan 8, 2009)

Today saw a bit more progress with the cam lobe (crankcase). : Still removing lots of metal but that's half, (maybe 1/10th) of the fun.

Here's where I'm at

The boring completed.






Finding my centres in the mill.






Ready to fly cut the top of the crankcase






The top of the crankcase after fly cutting.






Hopefully tomorrow will see a heap more metal removed from the sides and the bottom


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## NickG (Jan 8, 2009)

This is looking brilliant, and massive! You sure its only 10cc?!


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## Maryak (Jan 8, 2009)

Nick,

Yep it is pretty BIG 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak (Jan 9, 2009)

End of the week and another little and lot day :

Milling away the first side






Milling the radius on the first half of the bottom.






The almost finished first side. Note my trusty support jack, without it there was a lot of unhealthy vibration






Only ankle deep in ally swarf today 

Avagoodweekend

Bob


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## T70MkIII (Jan 9, 2009)

Bob, there'll be nothing left if you keep going on this way!

BTW, do you know if Capral has reopened in SA after the New Year? I've been trying to call the 3 Perth stores, but no answer and full answering machines. I don't know of anywhere else to get Al. Are there any other national suppliers you know of?

Thanks, and sorry for the thread drift.


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## Maryak (Jan 9, 2009)

Sorry don't know about Capral.

When I have to buy Non Ferrous I got to Surnam Metals at Greenfields. They keep all their offcuts for sale and have a vast range of stuff.

I'm pretty easy because I don't ask for other than approx sizes and metal group eg Alu, Brass, bronze etc.

Best Regards
Bob


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## T70MkIII (Jan 9, 2009)

Thanks for that, Bob - Maybe I should move back to Adelaide so I can use Surnam too! I'll keep trying Capral...


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## Maryak (Jan 11, 2009)

Hi for the start of another week 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Today was, (I fervently hope), the last of the little and lot days with the crankcase mostly hacked out to shape.

Finishing off the bottom radius milling.






Ready to start forming the cylinder passage and locator in the crankcase.






I am working to rule during the summer, when the shop hits blood heat it's stop time.


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## Maryak (Jan 13, 2009)

Yesterday was meltdown day here, it was + 38 c by 10:00 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 so following Bob's blood heat rule, went home and lurked under the air conditioning making DVD's for SWMDBO. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




The crankcase is about 90% complete now and below is where I'm at.

Boring out the crankcase for the cylinder.






Set up and rounding off the outside of the cylinder section.






The finished rounding of the outside.






Setting up the angle vice to mill and drill the flat for the venturi inlet.






Seem like a good place to stop...........so I did.


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## gjn (Jan 14, 2009)

It's looking good now the crankcase is taking shape - I sympathise about the heat, it was 42 in my workshop up in Aberfoyle Park yesterday when I did some welding for a mate. I'm surprised it wasn't hotter down your way - maybe you had a slight sea breeze.

Rgds - Gavin


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## ksouers (Jan 14, 2009)

Holy Cats, Bob!
I go away for a couple days and you have that huge hunk of aluminum whittled down to nothing!

Great work! This is going to be as interesting as the little engine ;D


Cheers,
Kevin


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## Kludge (Jan 14, 2009)

Bob, you have absolutely *NO* idea how much I'm learning right now. Not only am I getting a really good lesson (series of lessons) on turning a crankcase from stock but the exchange elsewhere with sandyC was extremely instructive regarding engine design as well. 

While I may never build an IC engine in my life, I'm seeing that it is within the range of possibility, something which I didn't believe before.

Mahalo nui loa.

Best regards,

Kludge


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## Maryak (Jan 14, 2009)

Gavin, Kevin and Kludge,

There's got to be a rhyme in that somewhere but it escapes me 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Thanks guys for your continuing support and encouragement. :bow: :bow: :bow:

What' a deer with no eyes? - No idea
Whats a deer with no eyes and no legs? - Still no idea.

It goes on but this is a family site. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


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## jack404 (Jan 14, 2009)

Bob

in a few days you've gone from lumps of metal i have here to a engine case 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




you are going great guns

cheers eh 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




jack


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 14, 2009)

Amazing progress Bob. It does look like a VERY LARGE engine from those pictures. Your documentation is inspiring

Cheers, 


Phil


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## T70MkIII (Jan 14, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> What' a deer with no eyes? - No idea
> Whats a deer with no eyes and no legs? - Still no idea.



What do you call a sailor with no arms or legs floating in the ocean? Bob.


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## SandyC (Jan 14, 2009)

;D ;D ;D ;D :big: :big: :big:

Don't know about the rest of you guy's, but I fear the heat is getting to the OZZIES!!!! ;D ;D..... or is it the AMBER NECTAR?   ;D ;D

 Bob, as expected, an excellent start and I look forward to the rest of the build. :bow: :bow: :bow:

I must say it is allways interesting to see just what (unrevealed) treasures lie, lurking, within a particular lump of metal.
All that is required is the willingness to chip away at it, a bit at a time, until you find the hidden item.

A bit like sculpture is it not?....... Did not Michael Angelo once state something on the lines of: -

"Within each piece of rock lies a hidden artwork, all I do is chip away at the rock until it is revealed".

Keep happy, and COOL.

Best regards.

SandyC ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D


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## flint (Jan 14, 2009)

What do you call a dog with no legs?


Doesn't matter what you call it, it won't come!


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## spuddevans (Jan 14, 2009)

flint  said:
			
		

> What do you call a dog with no legs?



Cigarette, cos you take him out for a drag !! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D


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## ChooChooMike (Jan 14, 2009)

> take him out for a drag !!


Daannnnnng, stole my next post :big:



> What do you call a sailor with no arms or legs floating in the ocean? Bob.


Don't get me started on those ..... ok, if you insist ;D :

Here's a few

.... hanging on a wall - Art

... his arm hanging on a wall - piece of Art.

Should move this to the humor area ...  and not hijack the thread.


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## Maryak (Jan 14, 2009)

Thanks Guys,

I enjoyed every one of them. :bow: :bow:

But ..... Oh dear....... can we now return to the topic.....please ??? ( I know, I started it ;D)

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak (Jan 15, 2009)

SandyC  said:
			
		

> ;D ;D ;D ;D :big: :big: :big:
> 
> Don't know about the rest of you guy's, but I fear the heat is getting to the OZZIES!!!! ;D ;D..... or is it the AMBER NECTAR?   ;D ;D



Sandy - probably a little of both 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






			
				SandyC  said:
			
		

> A bit like sculpture is it not?....... Did not Michael Angelo once state something on the lines of: -
> 
> "Within each piece of rock lies a hidden artwork, all I do is chip away at the rock until it is revealed".



Well, I don't think I'm Michael Angelo but I'm still chipping (milling) away. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Here's today's effort

Set up to mill the flat for the venturi.






Milling the venturi base.






Whittling away the first side.






The two upper sides whittled away. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









Now all I have to do is turn it upside down and repeat :

Have a great day.


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## steamer (Jan 15, 2009)

Looks Great Bob!...I think Michael would be pleased with the effort !

Dave


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 15, 2009)

Bob,
Am I mistaken? ??? The more you mill away, the larger it gets :big:


Cheers,
Phil


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## Maryak (Jan 15, 2009)

Dave,

Thanks for your words of support.

Phil,

There is some truth in that, it sure doesn't seem to get any smaller. I may have fallen into the typical amateur designers trap of over engineering. Still it's nice to have pieces I can see without a magnifying glass. Weight wise I suspect it is in the 747 class, power wise, who knows - a very small Cessna. :

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak (Jan 15, 2009)

Hi All,

Following on from yesterday, I turned it over and milled the other side 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			










Milled a couple of 45's on the fillets and that's the thing roughed out.
















It only needs a heap of blinging - that can wait until after it's finished.

Next week should see a start on the cylinder.

Have a great weekend.


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## kustomkb (Jan 15, 2009)

Looking great!

Good WIP as usual,

I thought it looked like it was growing too! ;D


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 15, 2009)

Bob,
I too am a fan of the larger scale engine, simply because I can handle the parts/screws etc. I'm amazed by the talent that can produce the really small stuff. What's "really small stuff"? In my mind, when you take a photo of a whole engine with a US 10 cent piece as a size reference, then you're there. Thanks for the documentation on a really interesting build :bow: :bow: :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


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## T70MkIII (Jan 16, 2009)

Looking spectacular, Bob.


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## Maryak (Jan 16, 2009)

Kustomkb, Phil and Phil,

Thanks guys for your support and encouragement. :bow: :bow:

It didn't look that big on a piece of paper 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Should have used A3 

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jan 16, 2009)

They always look different on paper don't they....

Great work Bob......Bling away!


Dave


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## Captain Jerry (Jan 16, 2009)

Bob

Watching the progress of this project is eye opening and inspiring. Until joining this forum, I have never been inside a machine shop with a pro. Thanks for the detail in your pics. I may never attempt a project like this but it does change my vision of what can be accomplished and how to go about it.

Thanks to you and the others who share this opportunity to watch.

Jerry


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## Maryak (Jan 16, 2009)

Dave and Jerry,

Thanks for the kind words, support and encouragement. There are many machinists who are members here, whose talents and abilities are way above mine. :bow: :bow: 

I was navy, (RAN), trained and priorities were, does what it's supposed to do and fits where it's supposed to fit 1st, speed 2nd, what it looks like a very distant 3rd. It's the last bit that boxes me, but I am trying to learn from the members here who have the patience to achieve No 3.

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jan 16, 2009)

I have faith Bob.....you will do just fine......

Dave


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## Maryak (Jan 17, 2009)

Dave thanks for the Faith,

I have Hope.

Now all I need is Charity to provide some stitch mops :

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jan 17, 2009)

.....stitch mop?

OK is that Aussie for rouge wheel?

Dave


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## jack404 (Jan 17, 2009)

Bob  rag wheels ?? what size ?

i have a 6" ( wont go on my 5" rig )

cheers jack


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## Maryak (Jan 17, 2009)

Jack,

This is new 2 me, I have a 6" bench grinder but reading about polishing I don't know if the speed will be too fast or what. Also have a 9" angle grinder.

I can do something with the 6", (I think) : ??? : ???

HELP......

Stitch mop is the name I was given for a rag wheel. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## jack404 (Jan 17, 2009)

Bob 

i'll send it down tomorrow or teusday

bling away

cheers

jack


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## Maryak (Jan 17, 2009)

Thanks Jack, :bow:

Better attach the bill as well.

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jan 17, 2009)

Bob,

Probably too fast on a bend grinder.  Slow speed and more torque works better for me.....others may disagree.


Dave


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## jack404 (Jan 18, 2009)

bob 
it was a left over out of a bundle purchase, so no worries eh
i bought a bundle of stuff for my 5" but there was some 6" and 9 " stuff in the bundle ( oztion)

got a 6" carborundum wheel as well if you want ( aussie made )
a RAAM17839 rated 6370 RPM  A145 R5 BM4  15.88mm spindle hole , 1984 man. date ( defence old stock)
 i've gotten rid of the rest i think maybe a cutoff wheel or two somewhere (9")

let me know  i'll post em in the morning... 

cheers

jack


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## Maryak (Jan 18, 2009)

Jack,

Just the stitch mop will do me fine, thanks very much.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak (Jan 18, 2009)

Hi Guys - (essses),

New week so new piece - The Cylinder.

Took me quite a while to remove the aluminium from all over the shop - don't quite no how but most of it seemed to want to reside in my left boot which was a real pain in the...... foot. :

A lump of steel for the cylinder.







Roughing down the OD.






The cylinder after cutting the fins. (That was a load of fun, only broke 2 tools and each time was clean undies 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)






The centre hollowed out ready for parting off and reversing into the 3 jaw.






Bob's blood heat rule saw me stop and go home for a shower ;D


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 18, 2009)

Great documentation as usual Bob. Will be interested in seeing how this cylinder finishes up,

Cheers 


Phil


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## steamer (Jan 18, 2009)

Don't let the parting tool scare ya...... ;D


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## Maryak (Jan 19, 2009)

Thanks Phil for your encouragement, Yep it will be interesting to see the end result.


Steamer - Me SCARED 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## rake60 (Jan 19, 2009)

Looking GREAT Bob!

*''(That was a load of fun, only broke 2 tools and each time was clean undies )"*
I've snapped off lots of parting tools and blades in my days.
With no mention of a change of socks required as well, I'd say your doing fine! 

Rick


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## Maryak (Jan 19, 2009)

Thanks Rick,

It was also a good lesson on why we wear safety glasses 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jan 19, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Thanks Rick,
> 
> It was also a good lesson on why we wear safety glasses
> 
> ...




You got that right!

Dave


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## steamer (Jan 19, 2009)

Bob,

If the bore is not finished yet, put a small 60 chamfer on it and bring the tailstock up. Just enough to get a chamfer all the way around and no more.

The support will help with the grooving.

Dave


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## Maryak (Jan 19, 2009)

Thanks Dave,

Good idea :bow:

I actually did the grooving whilst the live centre was engaged and completed it before I began the bore.

Best Regards
Bob


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## seagar (Jan 19, 2009)

thanks again for shareing Bob,I am learning a lot from your posts.

Regards . Ian :bow:


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## steamer (Jan 19, 2009)

Hi Bob,

Sorry for the mix up there.....its hard to tell how much front rake on that parting tool?

Too much is not a good thing....can result in soiled socks....so to speak......

Dave


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## Maryak (Jan 20, 2009)

Seagar,

Thanks for your continued support on my second adventure. :bow:

Dave, 

I guess it is hard to see the rake as only the rear of the parting tool is in shot, probably somewhere around what you can see, only the other way up. The tool in the tool holder is a finishing tool for the longitudinal. Thanks for your continued interest.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak (Jan 20, 2009)

Much cooler today so spent a bit more time in the sweat box - hit +40C at 2:30 so called it quits.

Here's what went down today.

Setting up the cylinder in the 3 jaw - the parallel is positioned to measure the length more accurately.






The bottom of the cylinder to length and the dia is the PCD of the transfer ports.






A Gerry and the hat tricks poor mans angle plate for drilling the transfer ports. :











Drilling the transfer ports.






Drilling the exhaust ports






Milling the exhaust ports.






And that's it from him today


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## Bernd (Jan 20, 2009)

Fourth pic down. Ingenious way to get that angle. Got enough weight there so it won't go no were. ;D

Bernd


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## jack404 (Jan 20, 2009)

Bob  looks real good

I really like your inginuity with the threaded rod to get the angle

i would not use it with a fly cutter, but punching small holes straight down ...

cool!

the whole thing is looking great Bob 

i see adelaide is sweating too! keep the fluids up, dont work too hard,

and take care of you and yours , its a tad warm not to eh.. 

oh and rag wheel on the way

cheers

jack ..


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## Maryak (Jan 20, 2009)

Bernd & Jack,

Glad you liked my angle improvisation - cribbed the idea off my satellite dish where it was used to fine tune to the satellite.

Thanks for your support and encouragement. :bow:

Thanks for the rag wheel jack.

Got a little done today progress interuptus came with a sheet metal job on a wine tanks insulation.

First up I completed the exhaust ports.






Back to the lathe a turned down the locating spigot for the cylinder crankcase interface.






The crankcase mounted on the cylinder spigot.






As an aside when moving chucks etc from one machine to another I find it's easier to get repeatability if things go back where they came from. Just a simple centre pop on the lathe and rotary table backplate matched to a similar centre pop on the chuck or face plate.


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## steamer (Jan 22, 2009)

The transfer passages on that engine are the two drilled holes parallel to the cylinder bore?

Coool......Most of the time I see that feature as some brazed on assembly.

Looking good Bob!

Dave


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## Maryak (Jan 22, 2009)

Started late finished early

The bit in between was mostly boring. :

Boring, (the cylinder).






Together at last.











A lump for the drilling jig.






Now for the weeks paper work


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## Maryak (Jan 22, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> The transfer passages on that engine are the two drilled holes parallel to the cylinder bore?
> 
> Coool......Most of the time I see that feature as some brazed on assembly.



Yes they are, there are 4 of them, another 2 on the side you can't see. They are drilled at a an angle to the bore so that if I've done it right they come out in the bore below the top of the exhaust ports.

It's called Oliver porting after the guy who invented it and removes all that nasty offset and transfer cover plate silver soldering from the equation.

Have a look at my offerings in the Plans Board topic "The Maryak 10" http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3629.0. That should give you a much better idea than my ramblings.

Thanks for your continued support and interest. :bow: 

Some of your work holding techniques are great and I hope you don't mind if I borrow a couple for later on in this project.

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jan 22, 2009)

"Some of your work holding techniques are great and I hope you don't mind if I borrow a couple for later on in this project."

I;ll send you a bill.. : ;D

What ever floats the boat my friend works for me.....thanks for the help a while back, appreciated that!

I'll download those drawings....but probably not tonight...I'm turning into a pumpkin here.....


Dave


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## kustomkb (Jan 22, 2009)

Great progress! looking good.


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## Maryak (Jan 23, 2009)

Dave and kustomkb,

Thanks guys for your support. :bow:

*THE DRILLING JIG* otherwise known in the trade as STUFF UP Numero Uno or Oshibka Odeen  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





The crankcase end of the drilling jig






Cut off turned around and starting on the cylinder end of the jig.






When disengaging the longitudinal feed some nong managed to continue on and engage the x feed.

Scratch one Jig. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









With that under my belt and having had a long and involved chat to myself, (most of which is not printable), started again. 

The cylinder end complete.






And success the crankcase end complete.






Now all I have to do is drill 10 holes in the correct places


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## gjn (Jan 23, 2009)

Bob

Don't you just hate it when that happens with the feed, I did it a couple of times with my 320 as well, scared the heck out of me the first time it happened, I ended up making a longer actuating lever to give me a bit more feel.

The new engine is really starting to look the goods now, I'm assuming that when you get to run it that we'll be able to hear it up here in the hills! Hope so anyway.

BTW - went out to Surman Metals for the first time today after reading about them in one of your earlier posts - man what I wouldn't give to be allowed an hour or so in there to collect samples, never seen so much metal just crying out to be machined. Saw a couple of ally billets that look like they'd make a good crankcase for the Maryak 2 litre single!

Rgds - Gavin


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## Maryak (Jan 23, 2009)

Gavin,

Thanks for your support, nice to know I'm not alone - 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






			
				gjn  said:
			
		

> Bob
> 
> Don't you just hate it when that happens with the feed



In a word YES 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






> BTW - went out to Surman Metals for the first time today after reading about them in one of your earlier posts - man what I wouldn't give to be allowed an hour or so in there to collect samples.



Perhaps we should go together when they are at smoko and offer our help with their surplus stock. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ozzie46 (Jan 23, 2009)

Great project. Hope I can do that someday.

 Just curious, why did you use steel for the cyl instead of aluminum with a liner?


 Ron


----------



## ksouers (Jan 23, 2009)

Bob,
It's really looking good! You've gotten a lot done in a short time.

Sorry about the stuff up. At least it was early on and not on the last of the ten holes (that's usually when I do it : )

Kevin


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 23, 2009)

Great progress Bob. Great workholding techniques you're sharing with us. But I am curious, when this engine is complete and you do your first run with a propeller on it, what will you use to hold your house down :big:?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Jan 23, 2009)

Ron, Kevin and Phil,

Thanks for your support and encouragement. :bow: :bow: :bow:



			
				ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Just curious, why did you use steel for the cyl instead of aluminum with a liner?



Ron, you raise a very interesting point there. I don't know exactly how many times I flip flopped from all steel to steel and aluminium as you suggest. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 At this stage it's still an option as I can machine away the fins and replace them with an finned aluminium sleeve. 

Speaking from a position of total ignorance, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I believe the beast is way too heavy for a model aircraft even with the weight reduction from using alu and steel. If that is true I guess the above doesn't matter all that much.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Jan 24, 2009)

Looking great Bob! ;D

Dave


----------



## NickG (Jan 24, 2009)

Bob,

Just seen your cylinder instalments, for some reason I didn't receive e-mail notifications. The engine is looking great! :bow: Which part's next on the agenda? 

Nick


----------



## Maryak (Jan 24, 2009)

Dave & Nick,

Thanks for your support. :bow:

When I get all the holes drilled and tapped, I think probably the bearing bushes for the crankcase.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Jan 26, 2009)

Don't know about the Beat, but the Heat sure goes on. :big:

Here's what I managed before the Heat Beat me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Set up in the mill for drilling the drilling jig.






Drilling the jig.






The completed drilling jig.











Drilling the crankcase.






The crankcase after drilling the transfer ports and hold down bolt holes.






After that, I felt like a melting apprentice dentist 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










Enjoy your day.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 26, 2009)

Great work Bob. Question - could you have drilled those 4 transfer ports without the drilling jig or does that ensure those ports go exactly where you want them to?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Jan 26, 2009)

Phil,

Thanks for your support and encouragement. :bow:

I am not sure you could drill them without the jig. You could probably use a 3/16" slot drill, but I don't have one long enough to reach through to the crankcase. This plus the more difficult set up to mount the crankcase in the rotary table convinced me that a jig was an easier option all round. I also like that using the jig seems to give better alignment of the holding down bolts rather than drilling the cylinder and crankcase individually. Lastly IMHO the jig is cheap insurance that the holes are in the right places before tackling the expensive bits.

Hope that helps. ??? ???

Best Regards,
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Jan 28, 2009)

I KNEW it was too hot. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I KNEW I should have stayed home. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I KNEW I should have remembered the camera. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Those are the things I now know, I know. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




What I didn't know I would know, but I now know I know is:

I now have to make a new cylinder - first the drill ran off, (must have been too hot for it :) and then it broke in the most horrible place. It and the cylinder received a bouyancy test which they failed dismally. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Happy Days


----------



## gjn (Jan 28, 2009)

Bob

You broke Bob's Blood Temp rule and Murphy has no compassion! 

You should be home with a cold beer, last time I looked it was 45 in the shade, the trams have stopped running because the tracks are buckled. No sign of relief at this stage according to the weather gurus.

Commiserations on the misfortune, you'll bounce back though.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak (Jan 28, 2009)

gjn  said:
			
		

> Bob
> 
> You broke Bob's Blood Temp rule and Murphy has no compassion!
> 
> Rgds - Gavin



Thanks Gavin,


Rules - My Dad used to say they are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of WISE MEN.

Oh to be a wise man. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## T70MkIII (Jan 28, 2009)

You Adelaide guys must have done something to really piss the weather god off today! Sorry it didn't go well for you, Bob.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 28, 2009)

Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the cylinder. Been there and done that. All you can do is let it blow over and get back on the danged horse.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Jan 28, 2009)

Richard and Phil,

Thanks Guys :bow: 

Another +44 C today so minimal shop time.   : :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb (Jan 28, 2009)

Sorry to hear about that.

I have been to Australia many times but never experienced 44!! :fan:

I am getting tired of the cold but I guess we can put a sweater on.

-Kevin.


----------



## steamer (Jan 28, 2009)

44C!......geeese! ( That's 112F for us Yanks.....)

Sorry to hear about the casualty...It would appear that if you want to accomplish anything, a certain percentage of scrap is unavoidable.......I have a pair of camshafts to prove it!

Hang in there buddy!  You'll get it done! I have complete faith. 

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Jan 28, 2009)

Kevin and Dave,

Thanks for the commiserations. 

Here is a picture of what happened, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





 the why, I'm still pondering. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 The only thing I can come up with is that the fin grooves were not quite deep enough and threw the drill off line.






With this in mind I made them 0.010" deeper on cylinder No.2. 20-20 vision is commonly referred to as hindsight. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Cutting the fins.






The fins are cut and the centre's drilled out.






Too Hot for any more


----------



## gjn (Jan 28, 2009)

Bob

I think your theory is correct, looking at the 1st picture it would seem that the side of the drill closest to the cylinder I can see marks where the side of the drill touched the cylinder wall, given the rotation direction of the drill and the thinness (ie lack of axial support) of the top fin it would seem that the tip of the drill "walked" around the cylinder wall a bit prior to entering the second fin. Once it entered the second fin at an angle the game was lost.

As you say, if you make the fins a smidgin deeper then the drill shouldn't touch the wall and you should be OK

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## jack404 (Jan 28, 2009)

Bob,

my skills aint near yours but i do a similar operation on the touch holes for the BP rifles

i stuffed more ends this way than i can remember,

I did learn that a small end mill through the first 2-3 fins ( plates in my case) stopped 95% of the distortion

the end mill did not distort if it touched the body, it just milled a groove and i could adjust

drilling was lots easier and way more reliable after i learned this

dunno if it helps you, but maybe..

cheers

jack


----------



## Maryak (Jan 29, 2009)

Gavin & Jack,

Thanks for the recommendation and support. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Jan 29, 2009)

Looks like the parting tool is behaving....praise be for small miracles....

It looks like the drill grabbed as it exited the surface on the back side. My hypothesis is that one flute grabbed due to the angle, and the deed was done.

The reason for the drill wonder is a little mystical. Watch you chips as they may pack up against the wall of the cylinder and push the drill sideways and down ( drills are amazingly flexible aren't they). Clear your chips often and clear off any hangers with a file as you go

I think your approach of making the grooves deeper should work just fine to help keep the drill wondering, though I would still peck at it with a short stubby screw machine drill or a center cutting end mill to make sure she's started out well and then keep the chips cleared.


----------



## Maryak (Jan 29, 2009)

Dave,

Thanks for the advice and support. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Metal Mickey (Jan 29, 2009)

Bob, I don't know how i missed this build (maybe the size the sites getting! So many to read....)Anyhow smashing build and photo's Good honest reporting with plenty of photo's..........sorted! :bow:


----------



## Maryak (Jan 29, 2009)

Mike,

Thanks for your support and encouragement. :bow:

Good to see your Myford rebuild is coming along very nicely.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Jan 29, 2009)

EOW again 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Not a lot done - IT'S TOO DAMN HOT :

Turned down to the transfer port PCD.






Drilling the transfer ports (again)






Avagoodweekend.


----------



## SandyC (Jan 30, 2009)

;D 

Excellent progress Bob, despite the one or two irritations...... one things for sure though..... you will be a dab hand with the parting tool by the time you are finished.

Keep your eye open for a 14"dia x 6" pitch prop.... won't be long before you need it.   ;D ;D

Keep up the great work.

Best regards.

SandyC


----------



## kvom (Jan 30, 2009)

Would it be safer to drill before cutting the fins?


----------



## Maryak (Jan 30, 2009)

Sandy,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

Kvom,

You may well be correct, bit late for me now. In the void between my ears I developed a sequence and prioritised what I felt needed to be done to get the port relationships correct, then fit the holding down bolts around them. There is no valid reason I can think of for not reversing my sequence. Should I make a 3rd cylinder I'll definitely try your suggestion. Thanks :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## scoop (Jan 31, 2009)

Its not usually a good idea to try and plunge a parting tool through all that intermittent cutting that would happen if the holes went in first.Probably get your arse squeaking a bit.It would be interesting to watch though,with the temperature as high as it is in Australia at the moment I would be sweating before I put a cut on let alone during it.If the tool is really rigid it might be ok.
 Its a character building stuff so good luck.

  best regards Steve C.


----------



## Maryak (Jan 31, 2009)

Scoop,

Yet another valid point :bow:

Suffice to say that things are a little iffy which ever way I go. There's still the option of an aluminium sleeve.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Feb 1, 2009)

New Week - Still Hot +40 in the shop at 11:00

Here's what went down

The transfer and exhaust ports have been machined and the cylinder fitted to the crankcase.






Boring the cylinder to 7/8" nominal ready for reaming later.






Retreated to the shower.


----------



## steamer (Feb 1, 2009)

Looking nice Bob....Sorry to hear about the continued heat....

Hang in there

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks Dave, :bow:

(the last one looked OK up to this point as well!!!)

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Feb 2, 2009)

A little cooler today, but was beaten by other work. However cylinder No2. is ready for lapping 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			








Managed to get all the holes drilled without deflections and disasters.

The drilling jig fitted to the cylinder.






Drilling the head/cylinder bolt holes.






The cylinder ready for lapping.






Next will be the bearing bushes.


----------



## jack404 (Feb 2, 2009)

Good onya Bob,

glad its worked this time 

glad its coolin down some for you too 

cheers

jack


----------



## seagar (Feb 3, 2009)

Hi Bob,as an old aeromodeler I am really enjoying this build.Thanks again for shareing it'
 :bow:  Ian


----------



## steamer (Feb 3, 2009)

Over the hump Bob!..... :bow:

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 3, 2009)

Jack, Seagar & Dave,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

The extra clearance in the grooves seemed to do the trick. This plus a couple of long series drills and it went like a charm. 

Yep a bit cooler here today only 33C and a cool night last night (25C) so we could sleep with the windows open and without the A/C.

Supposed to hit 40C by the weekend but a cool change on Sunday down to 25C.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Feb 3, 2009)

Rather than what went down today - It was more a case of what came down today at 0800. Progress Zilch. 






Lets hope it's fixed by tomorrow.


----------



## kustomkb (Feb 3, 2009)

Great come back. ;D

Too bad about the rookie driver though :-[

Great progress, Keep it up.

-Kevin.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 3, 2009)

Congratulations on your successful completion of this troublesome step Bob. Makes you feel good though right? You know you've completed something :bow: Stay cool and send some of that energy our way - it's snowing to beat the band tonight here in Pennsylvania.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Feb 3, 2009)

Kevin and Phil,

Thanks for the support and words of encouragement. Your right I do feel good that the cylinder is behind me. : Still kicking myself for not spotting the problem when I was drawing it up.

I admire those guys and/or gals who can make an engine without plans, :bow: for me it's [email protected]#s Poor Planning results in [email protected]#s Poor Performance, as I have just demonstrated. :-[ :-\

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Feb 4, 2009)

Hi Bob,
Sorry to hear about the power situation...That is frustrating!
Some off us over here recently know all too well! :

I agree, I wish I could just wing it and build it and all is well....not this guy!....it all just turns to chips when I try that.

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 4, 2009)

Thanks Dave, for your sympathy re power.

We have had several outages due to system overload and interconnector failures this summer. Lucky for us that non have occurred at home and Galina has managed to stay cool. Roll on Autumn, (Fall), and looking at the news, Spring for you guys North of the Equator.  

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Feb 4, 2009)

Powers on - Temperature tolerable - no more excuses so on with the build. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Today I managed to make, fit and ream the bearing bushes in the crankcase.

Some bronze I found for the bushes.






The first bush ready for parting off - spot the tapered lead in ???






The two bushes ready to be pressed into the crankcase.






Pressing the back bush.






And the front bush.






Reaming the bushes to 7/16"






After that lot I was completely bushed.


----------



## steamer (Feb 5, 2009)

Now that was a productive session....
glad it cooled a bit.


Dave


----------



## NickG (Feb 5, 2009)

You'll be thinking you're Ray Mears soon with all this bush-craft :big:


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 5, 2009)

Bob,
Great progress. Could you estimate the degree of taper you made? 
Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Feb 5, 2009)

Dave, Nick & Phil,

Thanks guys :bow:

I put the taper on with a smooth file until the bush entered the hole about 1/8". At a guess 3-5 degrees.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Feb 9, 2009)

New COOLER week,

Made a start on the crankshaft.

Roughing out the crankshaft.






Roughed out and ready for finish turning.






The start of the finishing cuts.






And that was it apart from much swarf removal


----------



## T70MkIII (Feb 9, 2009)

Bob, you sure do love mowing down a good sized piece of Al!

Great looking work, as always.


----------



## steamer (Feb 9, 2009)

That crank is coming along and you had a lot of pratice making "6's and 9's" ;D
Dave


----------



## deere_x475guy (Feb 9, 2009)

T70MkIII  said:
			
		

> Bob, you sure do love mowing down a good sized piece of Al!
> 
> Great looking work, as always.



hehe, take a second look....I don't this it's Al. ;D


----------



## Maryak (Feb 9, 2009)

Richard, Dave and Bob,

Thanks guys for your support. :bow:

The only lumps I seem to find have a penchant for excessive mowing. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Feb 10, 2009)

A very little more progress 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Finish cuts are on - Ready for lapping.






Lapping the crankshaft.






Not much else to say  - Spent the rest of the day in Lapland :


----------



## steamer (Feb 10, 2009)

Looking good....keep your lathe ways clean!

OK ......Lapland? ???


----------



## Maryak (Feb 10, 2009)

Thanks Dave,

Finished lapping the crankshaft and cleaned up the lathe ways.






I think I will start on the conrod tomorrow


----------



## steamer (Feb 10, 2009)

Sorry Bob....I have the skeavy shakes about lapping compound and lathes....I have seen what abrasive can do to a lathe..it's not pretty.

I usually do my lapping in the drill press.....as far from my lathe/mill as I can get! ;D

What's the conrod material?...and tell me about your bearings will you? Inquiring minds want to know.... ;D

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 11, 2009)

Dave,

No apology necessary, I don't have a drill press and I keep the ways covered in rag. When I took the shot, said rag had decided to wrap itself around the leadscrew   : : Still its better than my jacket which also found its way there last winter.

The conrod will be mild steel with bronze bearing inserts push fitted to the gudgeon and big end. The gudgeon pin will be mild steel held in the piston with circlips and fully floating.

The bearing bushes in the crankshaft are also bronze, they are quite long pushed in from each end with a gap in the middle. I am sure I will have a good seal against air being pulled in and I will soon find out if they are too long and I get a friction problem, (push em out shorten em and push em back in).

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cfellows (Feb 11, 2009)

Nice work, Bob. What's the bore and stroke gonna be?

Chuck


----------



## Maryak (Feb 11, 2009)

Chuck,

Thanks for your support and interest. :bow:

The bore is 7/8" and the stroke 1".

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Kludge (Feb 11, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> The only lumps I seem to find have a penchant for excessive mowing.



Hmmm ... maybe acquiring smaller lumps would be in order? ;D

BEst regards,

Kludge ... proponent of minimal mowing


----------



## Maryak (Feb 12, 2009)

Kludge  said:
			
		

> Hmmm ... maybe acquiring smaller lumps would be in order? ;D



Kludge,

Thanks for your support and interest. :bow:

The bigger lumps are the free lumps, ( I take my lumps where I can :)

Made a start on the conrod today - elected to do the lathe work between centres so I can come back and reduce the diameters after milling.

The conrod set up between centres.






Machined down to the big end diameter.






Turned around and machined to the gudgeon diameter.






Set up in the mill for milling the flats and drilling/reaming the holes.






This was followed by a visit to our builder and things finally seem to be going ahead on the home front.


----------



## Maryak (Feb 12, 2009)

Can't believe it's Friday again. (We wont speak about the date).

I was pleased with the way things went this morning and here it is. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Milling the first flat on the conrod.






And the other side.






The big end and gudgeon bush holes drilled and reamed.






Forming the conrod.






The conrod ready for the bushes and fairing of the ends.






Hope you all have a good weekend. ;D ;D


----------



## gjn (Feb 12, 2009)

Bob, 

probably a dumb question but why are you turning the conrod between centres rather than using the 3 or 4 jaw chuck? Are you driving the dog from a pin bolted to the face plate?

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak (Feb 12, 2009)

gjn  said:
			
		

> Bob,
> 
> probably a dumb question but why are you turning the conrod between centres rather than using the 3 or 4 jaw chuck?



There is no easy answer to such a simple question.   A chuck just didn't feel right : : It was also interesting to see how parallel or not the tailstock set up was, (it was out 0.003")



> Are you driving the dog from a pin bolted to the face plate?



No - On the backplate is a 4th hole closer to the centre, (inside the register). I made a pin for this hole and that's what I use. The faceplate is still in the cupboard.

Thanks for your continued support and interest.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb (Feb 12, 2009)

Looking good!

great progress.

 ;D


----------



## Maryak (Feb 13, 2009)

Thanks Kevin, :bow:

Are you anywhere near Powell River ???

I have an Aunt and Uncle Living there, they are both well over 80.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel (Feb 13, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> There is no easy answer to such a simple question.   A chuck just didn't feel right : : It was also interesting to see how parallel or not the tailstock set up was, (it was out 0.003")



Beside, using different techniques has to be a good thing - helps keep us on our toes rather than settle in to some same old, same old, routine.

It's looking good Bob


----------



## steamer (Feb 13, 2009)

Hi Bob,

Looks great! 

Centers are great for when you want to keep concentricity, and want to put flats on both sides of a part ......like a conrod. : ;D

Dave


----------



## Kermit (Feb 13, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

>



Uhmmmmm, I think I understand your setup at the Chuck End. Is that a Live center or Dead center in the tailstock?


Please excuse my total lack of manners,
Kermit


----------



## kustomkb (Feb 13, 2009)

Powell River is a beautiful stretch of coastline. Great place to retire. (and grow up)

'bout 200 KM from me but I'll be sure to say Hi if I'm ever up there 

Cheers!


----------



## Maryak (Feb 13, 2009)

Tel, Dave, Kermit and Kevin,

Thanks guys for your continued support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Kermit,

I didn't feel any bad manners from you 

When I started out I used a live centre in the tailstock. The one in the photo you are asking about is a hardened dead centre and is mounted with a smidgin of grease in the centre hole. Dead centres are a real pain - too tight and they bind, too loose and the job runs off. After every cut I check the "feel of the centre" and adjust accordingly.

Why did I change from live to dead? - I could not get close enough due to the bearing housing on the live centre to reduce the conrod to 1/4" dia at the big end. As it is there is much more tool overhang than is ideal to allow me to get to depth.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel (Feb 13, 2009)

Get aholt of a tub of Cop-R-Cote if you can find it, the best dead centre lube going IMHO


----------



## Maryak (Feb 13, 2009)

Thanks Tel,

Anti sieze compound for drill rods is another source, but be careful there are 2 types, one Zinc based and one Copper based.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 13, 2009)

Top notch work as usual Bob. With your pictures documenting the machining of the con rod I feel as though I've just attended a workshop in machining....lots to learn here,

Cheers


Phil


----------



## Maryak (Feb 13, 2009)

Phil,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Kludge (Feb 13, 2009)

Bob, I'm scribbling notes as fast as I can. Thank you for the excellent show and tell as you go. (Also thanks to you and Tel for the info on dead center lubricants.) Phil has the right of it; this is an excellent workshop in machining, including what to do when things go "oops". 

Kee going! A lot of us are following along learning as we go.

BEst regards,

Kludge


----------



## steamer (Feb 14, 2009)

Yes Bob....Please maintain course,turns and heading... :bow:


----------



## Maryak (Feb 14, 2009)

Kludge and Dave,

Thanks Guys :bow: - Will somebody be lookout for the lighthouse down the track ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Feb 14, 2009)

Don't worry....we'll be sure to give you a stop bell.....


 :big: ;D


----------



## Maryak (Feb 16, 2009)

Dave,

Due to other commitments, Please I need a start bell : Yesterday was a dead duck on the model front but very busy with the rest of our lives. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Managed a little more on the conrod this morning now all ??? ??? I need to do is round the ends.

Some bronze for the bushes.






The 2 bushes ready for pressing into the conrod.






The conrod with the bushes pressed home.






Setting up to drill and ream the bushes.






The conrod with finished bushes.


----------



## kustomkb (Feb 16, 2009)

Beautiful work!

I rounded some ends by drilling and reaming with the chuck into a piece of flat bar held in the tool post .

bolt up the rod end and swing past an end mill held in the chuck. (carefully )

as you were. 

 :bow:


----------



## ksouers (Feb 16, 2009)

Nice work, Bob! 

I do believe you are starting to have a collection of parts 
Following along in my usual stealthy fashion.


Kevin


----------



## Kermit (Feb 16, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

>



(Kermit raises his hand and waits for teacher to call him) 

Uhm, I got a question here. I see you clamp down rig and understand it. Less to it than I would have thought, but then your just drilling a hole here...anyway. I see the two parallels and think I understand what those are doing. I also see a plate of scrap under the part so I don't think you aren't concerned with setting depth. What's the dial indy doing for ya there Bob?


----------



## Maryak (Feb 17, 2009)

Kevin 1&2,

Thanks for your continued support and encouragement. :bow: :bow:

Kermit,

The scrap plate on top of the parallels will be a jig to hold the conrod whilst I round the ends. The DI is being used to set the conrod along the Y axis so that I can use the axis movement to give the correct centre distance of the big end and gudgeon, (2.250"). The parallels are for clearance from the table so that I can drill through the scrap piece and not damage the mill table. - Hope that explains it OK. ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Kermit (Feb 17, 2009)

I got it. Thanks Bob.

I didn't think of the need to round the ends at this point, but you did!. I think it is incredible how you guys plans all these steps out and like Chess you think ahead to the next few steps as well. 

Long way go and late getting started,
Kermit


----------



## Metal Mickey (Feb 17, 2009)

Hello Bob, still going well I see. I liked Kermits question as I thought the same as he did. Chess is a good analergy and thats where experience comes in I suppose....Hmmmm even more to store away. No wonder I have a head ache...... :bow:


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 17, 2009)

Good progress Bob. You're providing great coffee break reading for some of us :bow:.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Feb 17, 2009)

Kermit, Mike and Phil,

Thanks for your support and interest. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Feb 17, 2009)

Nicely done Bob!.

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 17, 2009)

Dave,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

Today saw the conrod completed. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




The set up for milling the conrod ends.






The finished conrod.






Doesn't look like much but by the time I'd messed around finding the right sized bolts and got the RT set up, it was smoko. So I didn't jump anything out of wack I only took 0.010" cuts and after a little clean up with emery cloth, I was pleased, so called it a day before something jumped up and bit me. Besides its starting to get hot again and was 38C in the shop at 11:00.


----------



## Paolo (Feb 18, 2009)

I'm learning a lot looking at your post!!! Thanks :bow: :bow: :bow:


----------



## steamer (Feb 18, 2009)

Hi Bob,

Thanks for sharing that.

Let me see if I get this straight

thats two threaded studs mounted to a plate at the Conrod center to center distance.

Grab each one in turn in the three jaw and round the end.  The clamp is to keep the fixture clocked in the jaws?

I like it!

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 18, 2009)

Paolo & Dave,

Thanks Guys. :bow: :bow:

Yes Dave, your explanation is spot on.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 18, 2009)

Nice rounding job Bob. Is that device that clamped to one of the chuck jaws serving as a rotation stop?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Feb 18, 2009)

Thanks Phil,

The bolts through each end of the conrod are sized so that they just clear the chuck. The toolmakers clamp then secures the bolt to the chuck jaw giving a positive drive in either direction via the rotary table. The conrod is secured to the jig by a nut under the plate on the outer end, and the bolt in the chuck jaws is pushed hard down, using the quill, before the jaws are fully tightened.

Hope that explains it OK ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Feb 19, 2009)

Hi All,

Don't know why this is in "A Work In Progress" 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





The last 2 days have been a non-event. Still the money was nice; so I shouldn't complain. : :

Have a great weekend.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Feb 20, 2009)

You too Bob!

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 20, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Don't know why this is in "A Work In Progress"



I think as long as you have not given up, it qualifies as still in progress.

Please don't give up. I love this thread.


----------



## Maryak (Feb 20, 2009)

Steve,

Thanks for your support and kind words :bow: :bow:

I have no intention of giving up, I was just venting my spleen at how paying work was stuffing up my play time. : :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ksouers (Feb 20, 2009)

Bob,
I have that same problem now.
Are you saying I will still have the same problem even in retirement??  ??? 

Cheers, 
Kevin


----------



## Maryak (Feb 21, 2009)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Bob,
> I have that same problem now.
> Are you saying I will still have the same problem even in retirement?? ???
> 
> ...



If you are as rich as I am - YES 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Feb 21, 2009)

Hang in there buddy.....I had one of those weeks too.

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 23, 2009)

Dave,

Thanks for your support I'm hanging 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 :big: :big:

A little more progress with the crankshaft.

A lump of aluminium for the crankshaft jig.






Setup to drill the offset for the crankpin in the jig.






The jig drilled and reamed.






Setup for machining the crankpin.






Roughing out the crankpin.






I have only been putting it off since 1995 : but my aching jaw saw me at the dentist, more to follow when I know how much pain I must endure. : :


----------



## NickG (Feb 23, 2009)

Bob,

I like the idea of the jig rather than off-setting in 4-jaw (I found that difficult). How does the jig clamp the shaft though? Is it split?

Cheers,

Nick


----------



## Maryak (Feb 23, 2009)

NickG  said:
			
		

> Bob,
> 
> I like the idea of the jig rather than off-setting in 4-jaw (I found that difficult). How does the jig clamp the shaft though? Is it split?
> 
> ...



Nick,

In my case the 4 jaw is too big to hold a 7/16" shaft at a 1/2" offset. The clamping is 2 fold:

1.  A push fit, (to be cut off later).

2.  A split jig, (see the 4th pic in my last post).

I was hoping to use a nut and spacer on the back of the jig but not enough room in the chuck annulus hence the push fit and split. I am also taking LIGHT cuts.

Thanks for your continued support and interest. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 23, 2009)

Nice technique Bob. You're inspiring some of us to push the envelope :bow: :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## NickG (Feb 23, 2009)

Bob,

Don't know how I missed the split line! :-[

I will definitely be using this method on future engines of mine, seems pretty solid. I will have to combat my impatience though and take LIGHT cuts! :big: 

Nick


----------



## chuck foster (Feb 23, 2009)

looking good as always bob.............and thanks for the photos and drawings 

chuck


----------



## steamer (Feb 23, 2009)

Slick fixture Bob! Like it alot!

Probably use that on my Seadog....Though I might use the 4 jaw.

How much is left to do friend?

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 24, 2009)

Phil, Nick, Chuck & Dave,

Thanks guys for your kind words, support encouragement and interest. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Not a lot today as I am making a becket for a ships bell. Something different and it's not a love job.

So here's what I did get done.

The completed crank pin.






The conrod fitted.






Drilling the inlet port.






The inlet port.






Finding TDC so that I can locate the web cut away and cross drill the inlet at the correct angle.






And so went another day in downtown Port Adelaide. :


----------



## Maryak (Feb 26, 2009)

I know I've slacked off this week and today won't be any different. I hate dentists, (only on a professional level), and have been putting off seeing one for some time. 

Net result - had one of my big old molars removed yesterday and I am banned from my shop until Monday when I'm off the pain killers.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Feb 26, 2009)

OT, but,,,,related
I have had absess's and I can think of no worse pain...including broken bones as I have had that too!

hang tough and take the meds!.....I understand all too well!

We'll wait patiently for your safe return......

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Feb 27, 2009)

Dave,

I'm very glad one of us has patience. I am chomping at the bit after only one day. 

Thanks for your support.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn (Feb 27, 2009)

Unfortunate turn of phrase there Bob. Hope all goes well in the fang department, eargerly waiting for the next instalment.


----------



## GailInNM (Feb 27, 2009)

Bob,
Sorry about the discomfort and the forced slowdown.

I have found that under circumstances when I can't work in the shop, it's a good time to grab a little bit of abrasive paper and work out some of the tooling marks and things like that. There are lots of things that you can do with out venturing near sharp things that cut. And if the meds are not making you too fuzzy headed there is always the sketch pad to plan a little bit on the next project. Keeping the mind active makes me forget about the current circumstances.

Hope yo get back to things soon.

Gail in NM,USA


----------



## Maryak (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks for the support guys



			
				Maryak  said:
			
		

> I am chomping at the bit after only one day.





			
				gjn  said:
			
		

> Unfortunate turn of phrase there Bob.



Not a good choice in my current condition and I was blissfully unaware of my Faux pas.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Feb 28, 2009)

That's OK Bob....I knew what you meant....got a good chuckel too! ;D

Seriously...How's it feeling?

Dave


----------



## rake60 (Feb 28, 2009)

Hope the jaws recover quickly Bob!

Did you hit the dentist up for a few of those tiny carbide burrs?
He can't reuse them so they are thrown away.
Every situation brings opportunity to sick minded home machinist.
 

Rick


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 28, 2009)

To a speedy recovery Bob. I'm missing the progress reports.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Feb 28, 2009)

Thanks Dave, Rick and Phil,

I am feeling pretty good today and no post extraction drama. Shop time tomorrow 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






			
				rake60  said:
			
		

> Did you hit the dentist up for a few of those tiny carbide burrs?
> He can't reuse them so they are thrown away.
> Every situation brings opportunity to sick minded home machinist.



Rick,

Funny you should ask that 

Here's my score.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## rake60 (Mar 1, 2009)

Now THAT'S one of the best dental visit scores I've ever seen!
Helps to numb the pain a little bit doesn't it? ;D 

Rick


----------



## Maryak (Mar 2, 2009)

New week and back in the shop. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Rick I was pretty happy with my haul from the dentist. Actually She is a very nice lady. ;D

On with the show and tell.

To ease into the restart 1st I tapped the crankcase for the head bolts.






Well at least something went OK the cylinder and crankcase line up.  






Whittling down some cast iron for the piston from a foundry sprue.






The piston roughed out and ready fro the 3 jaw.






While the 4 jaw was in the lathe, made a start on the cylinder lap.






The completed lap. I know it's steel but needs must - I didn't have a piece of copper or cast iron big enough. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









Lapping the cylinder - A long boring and dirty job but very necessary.






That's it for today.


----------



## kustomkb (Mar 2, 2009)

Back with a bang, and looking good!  ;D

How bout a vid of the cylinder lapping?

Thanks for the play by plays,


----------



## steamer (Mar 2, 2009)

Looking great Bob!

Nice looking engine...is it going in a plane?

Dave


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 2, 2009)

Great progress report Bob. Do those grooves in the lap hold the lapping compound?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Mar 2, 2009)

Kevin, Dave and Phil,

Thanks again guys. :bow:

Kevin - I will try and make a short video this morning re Lapping.

Dave - It's pretty heavy  I think a boat may be a better option.

Phil - Yes the grooves are for compound retention.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Metal Mickey (Mar 2, 2009)

Hello Bob, what lapping compound are you using? Diamond paste or something else? MM


----------



## Maryak (Mar 2, 2009)

Mike,

I don't use diamond paste, mainly because I can't afford it. :

I go to a DIY auto shop and buy valve lapping paste, medium and fine.

1. Use medium to remove machining marks, scoring etc. to taste. - I was amazed with this cylinder how much the milling and drilling of the ports reduced the diameter in this area and gave rise to small slivers of metal where the drill angles out into the cylinder. These are prone to pick up and one has left a small score which I am lapping out.

2. Next is the fine to start the real smoothing.

3. This is followed by dremel paste which is similar in strength to Bon-Ami or Ajax or Vim all of which are OK. and are favoured by a lot of bush mechanics.

4. Last is our old mate Brasso.

The piston will be treated in the same way and the final fit will be metal to metal with tallow.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## 90LX_Notch (Mar 2, 2009)

Bob,

This is such a great thread. I have learned so much from following it. Thank you.

regards,
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Mar 2, 2009)

90LX_Notch  said:
			
		

> Bob,
> 
> This is such a great thread. I have learned so much from following it. Thank you.
> 
> ...



Thanks Bob,

I really enjoy A Work In Progress.

For mine, you get so much more out of it than your input. In fact that could be said for the whole forum.

So many members give their support, encouragement and advice. Its almost impossible to fail in your endeavour in such surroundings. You may be on your own in your shop but you are not on your own here.

The questions asked prompt one to really think, Now why did I do that and why did I do it that way? when trying to answer them.

I am absolutely sure that I learn far more from those who contribute than they learn from me.

If some of my efforts contribute to others success and/or enjoyment then that is an added bonus.

Best Regards
Another Bob


----------



## NickG (Mar 2, 2009)

Bob,

The engine is looking fantastic and your posts are inspiring. I need inspiration, I've got too many projects whirring around in my had and just need to get one done to tick it off the list!

Nick


----------



## crankshafter (Mar 2, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> Hello Bob, what lapping compound are you using? Diamond paste or something else? MM


Hi guys.
Just a few words: Never ever use Diamond paste as lapping compond on internal parts on a engine  DIAMONDS ARE FORWER. 
Regards CS


----------



## chuck foster (Mar 2, 2009)

excellent write up on this build, looking forward to more of this build......................

chuck


----------



## Maryak (Mar 3, 2009)

Nick,

Your contributions here sure inspire me, its a much better alternative than getting expired. : :bow:

Crankshafter,

Thanks for the advise re diamond compound - looks like you've opened a can of worms. We all have our opinions and that's what helps to make the world go round. :bow:

Chuck,

Thanks for your kind words and support. :bow:

So - Lapping - At great expense below is a video of me in action. :big: :





After that the piston ready for counterboring is a bit of an anti-climax. ;D







Enjoy your day.


----------



## malcolmt (Mar 3, 2009)

Hi Bob

Excellent Video, like the titles  :big: :big: :big:

I do enjoy watching your builds and say a hearty thank you for showing us your work.

Kind regards

Malcolm


----------



## 90LX_Notch (Mar 3, 2009)

Bob,

I couldn't peel myself away from that video. It had me on the edge of my seat. Definitely Academy Award material. ;D

Seriously though, for a newbie like me, it is very informative. 

Thank you,

the other Bob


----------



## Mutley (Mar 3, 2009)

Being a complete novice it was very informative, thanks for posting. :bow:


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 3, 2009)

Bob, once again thanks for taking the time to share your work and techniques with all of us. The lapping video was a great lesson :bow: :bow: :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## rake60 (Mar 3, 2009)

Nice tutorial on lapping Bob!

Rick


----------



## rleete (Mar 3, 2009)

Would it be safe to say that the membership is "lapping it up"?


----------



## mu38&Bg# (Mar 3, 2009)

I'm impressed with the rate of progress on your engine. Keep it up.


----------



## Maryak (Mar 3, 2009)

rleete  said:
			
		

> Would it be safe to say that the membership is "lapping it up"?



The above had me rolling in the aisles :big: :big:

Seriously - Thanks Guys :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb (Mar 3, 2009)

Thanks Bob, That was great!


----------



## gjn (Mar 3, 2009)

rleete  said:
			
		

> Would it be safe to say that the membership is "lapping it up"?



<bad pun>It could also be said that we are "honing" our skills by watching Bob's progress.</bad pun>


----------



## Maryak (Mar 4, 2009)

Kevin and Gavin,

Thanks guys,

If nothing else it's honing my skills. :bow: :bow:

Not a lot today, an old Navy mate dropped in and by the time we'd finished telling lies about the past it was time to take Mrs M shopping.

Photobucket is under maintenance so I will edit this post later and add todays feeble effort.

Best Regards
Bob

Edit - Counterboring the piston


----------



## Maryak (Mar 5, 2009)

Another day at the fang farrier - progress zero :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Kludge (Mar 5, 2009)

I loved the video but it's an interesting choice of music - Flight of the Bumblebee from Tale of the Tsar Sultan. It's too flighty; you need something with a bit more grit to it - something abrasive but not as in heavy metal rock. 

For anything I might produce, the best choice would probably be The Death of Siegfried from Wagner's Gotterdammerung (sp?). At best, the Flight of the Valkeries from (amazingly enough) The Valkerie might work. 

Ah, well.

BEst regards,

Kludge


----------



## tel (Mar 5, 2009)

Kludge  said:
			
		

> For anything I might produce, the best choice would probably be The Death of Siegfried from Wagner's Gotterdammerung (sp?). At best, the Flight of the Valkeries from (amazingly enough) The Valkerie might work.
> 
> Ah, well.
> 
> ...



Or Tiny Tim's Tiptoe Through the Tulips?


----------



## Maryak (Mar 5, 2009)

Kludge & Tel,

Thanks fellow music lovers :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn (Mar 5, 2009)

We are metal workers are we not, surely then the theme music should be Coro di zingari otherwise known as the "Anvil Chorus".

Now back to the lathe and mill!


----------



## Maryak (Mar 5, 2009)

gjn  said:
			
		

> We are metal workers are we not, surely then the theme music should be Coro di zingari otherwise known as the "Anvil Chorus".



If I was a blacksmith :

Actually managed to get a little done today.

The set up for cross drilling the gudgeon pin hole.






Machining the slot for the conrod.






Parting off the piston.






The piston and conrod.






Some 316SS for the gudgeon pin.






And so ends another week - Avagoodweekend.


----------



## steamer (Mar 5, 2009)

Looking like a nice piston.

I assume you are going to go for the lap fit....?

cool

avagoodweekend yourself!....hope the choppers are better?

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Mar 6, 2009)

Hi Dave,

Thanks for your concern about my chompers. I think it's going to be a long and involved saga.

Yes I am going for a lap fit. After the gudgeon is finished I intend to mate the piston and cylinder.

After a bit of thought I am now opting for a semi floating gudgeon with the pin locked to the conrod. It should save trying to machine circlip grooves in the piston and I need not have bushed the gudgeon end but hey this is experimental so why not ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 6, 2009)

Thanks again for keeping us updated on your progress Bob. Thm: I, like many others, find this build and your documentation enlightening.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Mar 7, 2009)

Phil,

Thanks for the kind words and continued support. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Mar 10, 2009)

Yesterday was a public holiday here for the Adelaide Cup so nothing on the model front.

Below is today's effort.

Parting off the gudgeon pin.







Tapping the conrod for the gudgeon pin locking screw.






The gudgeon pin in the locked position.






A mandrel to hold the piston for lapping






Bronze for the piston lap.






Lapping the piston.






A trial assembly.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 10, 2009)

Seeing the engine chucked in the vise next to the paint can made me realize how big this build is. This is no Cox .049.

Looking good!


----------



## deere_x475guy (Mar 10, 2009)

Good eye Steve I didn't even notice that. Looking great Maryak and thats for the pics...


----------



## kvom (Mar 10, 2009)

Newbie question on gudgeon (wrist) pins in general. Since you have a lock screw it is evident that as the piston moves the pin must oscillate in the side walls of the piston. Should I assume that the bronze of the piston acts as bushings?

On my smaller CO2 engine, the plan has the piston rods moving over a stationary gudgeon. I am wondering if there will be a problem with the piston rod walking sideways. If so, I imagine I could make some brass bushings to keep it in the center. Thoughts? FWIW the diameter of the pistons is 3/4". The wrist pin is 1/8" diameter rod (could be drill rod or brass).


----------



## steamer (Mar 10, 2009)

Yes Steve makes a great point.......WHEN it starts Bob ;D.....make sure we don't end up calling you "fingers", as I assume your putting a prop on the front of that beast?

Knowing something of your past endevors....I have every reason to believe that won't happen....you've been around big stuff far to long to be careless now!

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Mar 11, 2009)

Steve and the other Bob,

Thanks guys for your continued interest and support. :bow: :bow: Yep, bigger than Ben Hur. ;D



			
				kvom  said:
			
		

> Newbie question on gudgeon (wrist) pins in general. Since you have a lock screw it is evident that as the piston moves the pin must oscillate in the side walls of the piston. Should I assume that the bronze of the piston acts as bushings?
> 
> On my smaller CO2 engine, the plan has the piston rods moving over a stationary gudgeon. I am wondering if there will be a problem with the piston rod walking sideways. If so, I imagine I could make some brass bushings to keep it in the center. Thoughts? FWIW the diameter of the pistons is 3/4". The wrist pin is 1/8" diameter rod (could be drill rod or brass).



Kvom,

1 Above, yes the gudgeon/wrist pin oscillates in the piston. In this case 316SS against t200 cast iron. I was originally aiming for a fully floating setup with circlips to prevent sideways movement of the pin. I settled for the above as being far easier to machine and secure. I need not have placed a bronze bush in the gudgeon/wrist pin end of the conrod with the method I ended up with. 

2 Above, your mechanism is the 3rd option of those used for conrod oscillation. Maybe you could lock the pin with a screw from the underside of the piston. Maybe you could shorten the pin a little and fill the ends with soft solder. Last but not least, if your piston has rings one of the latest innovations, (12":1ft), is to put aluminium end caps on the pin which if it moves pushes the aluminium against the cylinder wall. Can't say I'm all that thrilled about the idea but it's out there working so there must be something to it. 

And..... thanks for your support and Interest. :bow:



			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> Yes Steve makes a great point.......WHEN it starts Bob ;D.....make sure we don't end up calling you "fingers", as I assume your putting a prop on the front of that beast?
> 
> Knowing something of your past endevors....I have every reason to believe that won't happen....you've been around big stuff far to long to be careless now!



Thanks Dave,  :bow: I've broken a few on the way by dropping boiler doors on them, (just as well I'm not a concert violinist :), but I've managed to keep all my digits, (all 21 of them).  

I think attempting to run this thing will be an outside job with a substantial mounting block and a couple of bloody great clamps. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







Below is today's effort.

Some Aluminium for the cylinder head.






Reaming the centre hole for the compression screw plug.






Drilling for the head bolts.






Set up for machining the cooling fins.






Last but not least, I finally received my Xmas present from my daughter, (its' been on back order). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









Now I will have to expend extra energy and impose self discipline to finish M10 before delving into gas engines and electrics.


----------



## NickG (Mar 11, 2009)

Loving this project and now can't wait to see your next! :bow: I've always wanted to do a hit & miss engine. Only problem with this site is I'm always looking at everybody elses wonderful projects when I should be in the garage working on my own! ???

Nick


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 11, 2009)

Bob, to put this in perspective for me, what is the size of the screws that secure the cylinder block to the crankcase? 

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Mar 11, 2009)

Nick,

Don't say that ;D I'm having enough trouble containing myself as it is and it has only been 18 hours. :

Phil,

The bolts holding the cylinder to the head are 5/32" x 2 3/4" long - 6 off and the cylinder OD is 1 5/8".

Thanks to both you and Nick.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Metal Mickey (Mar 11, 2009)

Bob great stuff. Have you chained down your container for when it starts? Also there is the problem of Australia actually moving towards New Zealand or are you facing towards the Philippines? You could give a whole new meaning to continental drift! :big: :big:

Good work though! :bow:


----------



## steamer (Mar 11, 2009)

looking great Bob.....Need video of this beast running when the time comes.....

Make sure its LOUD AND PROUD!

Dave


----------



## malcolmt (Mar 11, 2009)

Hi Bob
I just checked the stats on this thread before reading the latest update, 7400 views, you sure do capture many peoples interest when you are posting. I really enjoy catching up with your progress and the way you document everything with great pictures, very much appreciated. Keep up the great work.

Kind regards

Malcolm


----------



## gjn (Mar 11, 2009)

We need notice ahead of the run though, Bob is down near the port, I'm about 20 miles away up in the hills - I want to be outside when he starts it up so I can hear it run........


----------



## Maryak (Mar 12, 2009)

Thanks Guys, :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Enjoyed all the comments :big: :big: 

It's probably suffering from an overdesign problem as far as power/weight ratio is concerned. I intend to make a starter out of a rubber door stop which will fit my electric drill and keep me and my fingers a safe distance away - just in case it starts.

Nil report for yesterday as I spent some time watching the pour of our foundations, (see Mrs Maryaks Mansion).

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Mar 13, 2009)

I managed to finish the Aluminium part of the cylinder head today.

Below is a photo of the head fitted to the assembly






New week coming up 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## rleete (Mar 13, 2009)

malcolmt  said:
			
		

> I just checked the stats on this thread before reading the latest update, 7400 views, you sure do capture many peoples interest when you are posting. I really enjoy catching up with your progress and the way you document everything with great pictures, very much appreciated. Keep up the great work.



Exactly. While this kind of engine isn't necessarily my cup of tea, the excellent documentation of the build is. It's a self contained how-to. He could be making just about anything, and I'd still follow along.


----------



## Maryak (Mar 13, 2009)

rleete,

Thank you for your kind words and support. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 13, 2009)

Will this be a glow plug type engine or the type with the screw in the head.

The screw type, is that a diesel?

Is there a future plane or boat or do you just build them to run on a stand like me.


Sorry if this has already been covered.


----------



## cfellows (Mar 13, 2009)

This is going to be quite a thumper (I know, that term is usually reserved for 4 strokes), but with that stroke (and bore) you'll have to tie 'er down pretty good to keep it from jumping all over the place!

Chuck


----------



## Maryak (Mar 14, 2009)

Steve,

It will be a diesel type. At this stage I am just building engines and enjoying the process of getting them to run.

Chuck,

How right you are, I am anticipating a fair degree of jumping about. I intend for it not to chase me around the yard. :

Thanks guys for your support and interest. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
bob


----------



## steamer (Mar 14, 2009)

Looking great Bob.

Can't wait to see more!

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Mar 17, 2009)

Dave and the rest of the support team,

Sorry about the delay but the fang farrier got stuck in yesterday so I rested my aching jaw, ( lucky I am not SWMDBO :)

Today's effort was the crankcase cover plate.

Aluminium chucked for the cover plate







The inside of the plate completed.






Test fit of the crankcase and cover plate.






Forming the outside flange.






The outside of the cover plate counter bored.






Setup for drilling the cover plate and crankcase.






The finished crankcase end cover plate.






Have a good day.


----------



## tel (Mar 17, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> How right you are, I am anticipating a fair degree of jumping about. I intend for it not to chase me around the yard. :
> 
> Best Regards
> bob



 ;D Had that happen with a full sized Sundial 1.5hp a few years back - exciting stuff!


----------



## steamer (Mar 17, 2009)

Looking Good.  ;DI trust the shop has cooled down some? 8)

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Mar 17, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> ;D Had that happen with a full sized Sundial 1.5hp a few years back - exciting stuff!



Tel,

My worst was one of those ratchet crank handles on a Lister which refused to disengage when the engine started. Not a lot of room to get out of the way in a warboat engine room. When it did let go it was amazing how my things it hit and how many different directions it travelled before coming to a well deserved stop. The fuel shut off was adjacent to it and the emergency shut off was on the other side from where I was trying to disappear into the deck plates. Nough Said   

Dave,

Yes thanks it's hovering between 15C and 25C very pleasant.

Thanks to both of you for your continued support. :bow: :bow:

I am 90% sure I will be off to Kalgoolie WA tomorrow, there is an urgent job on a couple of tanks at a mine site, one with Sodium Hydrosulphide and another with Conc Sulphuric Acid. Both are decidedly unpleasant to deal with and I will be glad when it's over. ;D :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 17, 2009)

Thanks for the progress report and pictures Bob. Entertaining AND educational - that's a good combo :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Mar 17, 2009)

Phil,

I'm glad you find it entertaining. ;D

Today's paltry effort, (getting ready for my trip in the morning). 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Tapping the crankcase for the cover plate studs.






Th end cover plate fitted to the crankcase.






Spent quite some time on an aluminium removal exercise from under the benches and machines. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## flick5848 (Mar 18, 2009)

This is superb stuff keep it coming. :bow:


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 18, 2009)

Great stuff Bob. :bow: :bow: That crankcase cover extends quite a bit into the crankcase. Why wouldn't you just use a flat plate with a small recess? Are you minimizing dead space in the crankcase with your design?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## kvom (Mar 18, 2009)

I have the same question. I will need some sort of cover for the crankcase on my CO2 engine. Dave Kerzel shows one on his build page, but not on the plan. I was thinking that it might be interesting to have a lexan or polycarbonate transparent cover so expose the operation of the crank and rods. For now I will likely just have an aluminum cover similar to Bob's.


----------



## rklopp (Mar 18, 2009)

On a 2-cycle engine like the Maryak10, the crankcase is the scavenging pump. It performs best when it has the least dead space. Hence the deeply dished end cover. I made a Little Dragon and over-cut the crankcase interior volume when slotting for the con-rod clearance. Performance was definitely affected.


----------



## Maryak (Mar 18, 2009)

rklopp  said:
			
		

> On a 2-cycle engine like the Maryak10, the crankcase is the scavenging pump. It performs best when it has the least dead space. Hence the deeply dished end cover.



Phil & kvom,

The above explains it very nicely.

Thanks to all 3 of you for your interest and support. :bow: :bow: :bow:

See Ya next week after Kalgoolie.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel (Mar 18, 2009)

Just don't get caught up in Hay Street!


----------



## Maryak (Mar 21, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Just don't get caught up in Hay Street!



Hi All,

I'm back - stayed away from Hay street - mind you there was one on the plane going back to Perth yesterday and were I 40 years younger and single.........

The job went well - I condemned the Sodium Hydrosulphide tank and that made everybody happy - They have been unsuccessfully trying to get money for a new one for a year or so. This tank had corroded from 16mm down to 5mm, (5/8" down to 7/32").

Tomorrow should see M10 again.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Paolo (Mar 21, 2009)

Really nice work...!!!
Cheers
Paolo


----------



## Maryak (Mar 23, 2009)

Paolo,

Thanks for your continued support and interest, :bow:

Lack of Progress report - don't quite know but I have done my back in. Can't sit, can't stand, can't lay down any and all for any length of time. I am currently a fully paid up member of "Grumpy Old Men." : :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kvom (Mar 23, 2009)

Bob,

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. Get well soon and don't make it worse!


----------



## 90LX_Notch (Mar 23, 2009)

Bob,

I know the feeling. In my younger days I was a Powerlifter and blew my back out (career ending injury). When it first happened I was like you; I couldn't stay in anyone position for more then 15 - 20 minutes. I was in college at the time and considered dropping out because I couldn't concentrate during the lectures or exams. That was in '86 and I have lived with the pain everyday since. Luckily, it is nowhere near as bad now. 

I truly wish you a sincere and speedy recovery.

Bob


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 23, 2009)

Here's to a speedy recovery Bob. Get well soon

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## tel (Mar 24, 2009)

Hmmmm .... crook back and you _still _claim you stayed away from Hay Street????


----------



## steamer (Mar 24, 2009)

Tel may be on to something here....... ;D


Hope your feeling better Bob!

Dave


----------



## PhillyVa (Mar 24, 2009)

Hey Bob,


Thanks for your continued support and interest, :bow:

Lack of Progress report - don't quite know but I have done my back in. Can't sit, can't stand, can't lay down any and all for any length of time. I am currently a fully paid up member of "Grumpy Old Men." : :


wEc1 to the "Grumpy Old Men." club.

Hope your recovery is swift.

Regards

Philly


----------



## Maryak (Mar 24, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Tel may be on to something here....... ;D
> 
> 
> Hope your feeling better Bob!
> ...



I WISH ??? : ??? :

Seriously Guys thanks for your commiserations. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: I have improved to the "It only hurts when I laugh" stage.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Mar 26, 2009)

Hi All,

Had a little tank repair work this morning and managed to get through that with minor aches so I thought I would have a go at the compression screw bush for the head.

The bush sized ready for drilling and tapping.







Ain't progress marvellous. ??? ??? ??? Tomorrow is another day and today will be yesterday tomorrow - See Ya.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 26, 2009)

Glad you are well enough to get out in the shop.


----------



## Maryak (Mar 27, 2009)

Thanks Steve, :bow:

A little more today and then it was off to see how the builders performed this week.

Tapping the cylinder head bush for the compression screw.






Parting off the bush.






Press fitting the bush in the cylinder head.






The bush in the cylinder head.






Material for the compression screw.






Test fit of the compression screw and cylinder head.






Have a good weekend.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Mar 31, 2009)

Progressus Interuptus,






2nd, some kind soul clobbered my car in the supermarket car park. Of course they left a note saying who etc. ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???

So between tanks and panel beating M10 progress 2x0=0

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Mar 31, 2009)

A very very little more today before I had to BACK OFF. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Tapering the compression screw shaft to make the handle.






The screw handle is bent and fitted to the head.






Oh well I suppose it's better than 0 ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## GailInNM (Mar 31, 2009)

Some days making one small part is a very good day.

It's the journey, not the destination, that is the fun part.

Looking good.

Gail in NM,USA


----------



## Maryak (Apr 1, 2009)

Gail,

Thanks for putting things into perspective etc. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Metal Mickey (Apr 1, 2009)

Hello Bob, sorry to hear about you back. No comfort to you but I know what you are going through. However in your case I hope its something that will go away! Make sure you tell it too......mine just doesn't listen!!!

Keep well.

Mike alias MM or mm or meta mickey or eh you!.......


----------



## steamer (Apr 3, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> I WISH ??? : ??? :
> 
> Seriously Guys thanks for your commiserations. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: I have improved to the "It only hurts when I laugh" stage.
> 
> ...






Sorry to hear that Bob.....I do hope your teeth and you back aren't hurting at the same time....

Engine is looking great so far.........emmmmmmm.....I smell and engine almost ready to run... ;D

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Apr 3, 2009)

Dave,

Thanks for your continued support and encouragement. :bow: :bow:

Yesterday was another minimalist day. Only just got started when I had to stop and take a 55ft ferry off the slip and back to her moorings. Ah well it was a nice day for a boat ride. : Her regular skipper could not make it at the same time as the 60 ton lifter was available.

Drilling the crankshaft for the cut outs.






When I mounted the crankshaft in the chuck their was a lot of overhang and the crankshaft is fairly weak due to the valve hole; so I elected to drill and hacksaw the cut outs hopefully placing minimal axial load on the shaft with the final milling of the profile.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Apr 6, 2009)

A New Week - No daylight Saving - Summers Gone and all the leaves are falling, well the deciduous ones anyway. :

I spent quite a lot of the weekend thinking about the overhang of the crankshaft in the rotary table and I was not happy :'( so I decided to drill through the backing plate allowing the crankshaft to go through the pate and down the centre of the rotary table viz:

Drilling out the rotary table.











Milling the crankshaft cutouts.






The milling completed.






The crankshaft profile.






Next I decided to make the contra piston. ;D

The contra piston OD.






The contra piston drilled and ready for counter boring.






And there ended another day in dreamland. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Paolo (Apr 6, 2009)

:bow: :bow: :bow: Great!!!!
Cheers Paolo


----------



## steamer (Apr 6, 2009)

Hi Bob,

Good move with the backing plate, you will thank yourself every time you need to "choke up" on a part.

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Apr 6, 2009)

Paolo and Dave,

Thanks for your ongoing support and input. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ksouers (Apr 6, 2009)

Bob,
Excellent work! Looks like you're getting back into the swing!

I offer my apologies, I haven't been as "vocal" lately, but I assure you I've been reading every post.

Hope the back is getting better.


Kevin


----------



## Maryak (Apr 8, 2009)

Kevin,

Thanks for your support. :bow

Talking about support, I have been putting up with my back for almost 3 weeks now but after wrestling with the raw water pump on a large Volvo yesterday, took myself to the doc. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





After messing about for most of the day it turns out I have a compression fracture of my spine. No wonder the bloody thing aches. 

No heavy lifting for a while and now they want to find out how dense I am. I said to the doc "Can't you just tell that by looking, everybody else can." :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Apr 8, 2009)

heave to to a drydock my friend......A back injury is something you don't mess with.

Listen to the doc....


Best Wishes,.... hope your feeling better!

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Apr 8, 2009)

Dave, (or should I call you Back Brace ???)

Thanks for your continued support. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 8, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> After messing about for most of the day it turns out I have a compression fracture of my spine. No wonder the bloody thing aches.




Good god that sounds bad. My sincere hopes and prayers for a speedy recovery. As for dense, can't tell by looking at your Maryak 10 parts!!


----------



## Maryak (Apr 8, 2009)

Steve,

Thanks for your kind thoughts and words. :bow: :bow:

It sounds worse than it is. Years are catching up with me. The vertical bone of my spine between 2 discs has partially compressed into itself. It should come good in about another 6-9 weeks. Tests after Easter will show if I am in the early stages of Osteoporosis and if so, another magic pill will be required to re-mineralise the bone.

Lucky for me I'm on veterans benefits. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 8, 2009)

What if we all kick in for one of those massage tables with the face hole in it. We can get a few chunks of angle iron and hang it over the lathe. If we do that, can we keep the project alive, or are we just going to have to wait?


----------



## rake60 (Apr 8, 2009)

You just go easy there Bob.

Steve's idea of an angle iron support is terrible.
I'm thinking round stock would be much more comfortable. 

Take care of yourself!

Rick


----------



## steamer (Apr 8, 2009)

massage table!.... :


OK I won't go there......... ;D

Get Well!.......please.


Dave


----------



## 90LX_Notch (Apr 8, 2009)

Bob,

I wish you a speedy recovery.

Bob


----------



## joe d (Apr 8, 2009)

Bob

Don't overdo things, and hopefully you'll be back to normal soon.

Is it just me, or is it a little suspicious that your back has gone out just before it's time to arrange the furniture in the new palace? :big:
(wish I'd have though of that.....)

Take care, Joe


----------



## Maryak (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks Guys, :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

for your concern and support. I've sussed out a nice high stool which is the right height for sitting machining. I intend to do as little as possible over Easter and give it a test run next week.

Neat trick to do it before we move but I'd rather I hadn't done it at all. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## seagar (Apr 9, 2009)

It sounds like a case of too much of a good thing to me lol ;D
get better soon, Ian(seagar)


----------



## Metal Mickey (Apr 9, 2009)

I hope you can recover soon Bob. As someone who suffers from lower spine problems I can sympathise and keep my fingers and toes crossed for you. Don't realy need your problems at any time but with that big workshop your building (great convincing SWMBO its a new bungalow!) its not good.

I can see your keeping your sense of humour, so keep smiling......


MM


----------



## Maryak (Apr 9, 2009)

Ian and Mike,

Thanks guys :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## putputman (Apr 9, 2009)

Bob, this seems like a good time to pull up a couple lawn chairs in front of that new mansion and you and the SWMBO sit back with a couple of brews and watch the progress and let the back heal at the same time. After a week or so both will look and feel better. Best of luck.


----------



## Maryak (Apr 10, 2009)

putputman,

Thanks for the advice. :bow:

We are leaving soon for an inspection tour, (our spies tell us the brickwork is well under way). Then over to my daughters for dinner and the egg swap. ;D

Should see us out until tomorrow. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Apr 13, 2009)

Easter is behind us and I ventured into the shop for a couple of hours.  

The contra piston mounted on a mandrel to finish/fit to the cylinder.






The completed contra piston - just a little heat now to release the super glue.






Next is a bit of design work for the venturi and spray bar.


----------



## spitfire (Apr 14, 2009)

Hi Bob

I recently bought a mini mill and mini lathe - I'm still setting up my shop, a frustrating but necessary interlude to actually getting to the task of machining, and must say - I have learned much from this discussion. It is very inspiring and to a newbie like myself - very educational. Thank you for all the excellent pics and the detailed discussion. I'm certainly looking forward to starting my first engine in the coming weeks and of course can only aspire to such great work.

All the best.

Sean


----------



## Maryak (Apr 15, 2009)

Sean,

First up - Welcome to our forum. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Thank you for your kind words. :bow: This is only my 3rd model so compared to many members here I am a newcomer. I am glad you are getting value from this work in progress, if you get half as much out of it as I do that's really great.

What do you plan on starting with ??? If you are new to machining then the general consensus seems to be start simple with a wobbler. If it's only the model part that's new then I would recommend something in the larger sizes to get your head around working with small parts.

ENJOY

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Apr 15, 2009)

Hi Again, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Today saw a start on the venturi. I did a drawing but didn't like the proportions so this part is draw as you machine as you draw.......

A lump of Aluminium for the venturi.






Turning up/down the venturi body outside.






Machining the inlet throat of the venturi.






Set up for milling the mating flange and the cross piece for the spray bar.






The mating flange and cross piece milled.






After this I had my bone density test and I am pleased to report I'm normal ??? (not too dense and not porous) : :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ariz (Apr 15, 2009)

congratulations for your good healt!

but I wish add congratulations for this great thread, that is particularly useful for us newbies

when I have completed my second steam engine, I wish try to realize an IC engine, but I don't plan to make plane models on which mount the engine...
it will be only an exercise work


----------



## steamer (Apr 15, 2009)

Bob, 

So glad to hear your well!....hope that chopper is squared too also!

Nice looking carb!.....What is the plan for fuel? ether?.....

Dave


----------



## GailInNM (Apr 15, 2009)

Looking good , Bob.
I am very glad that you are able to get back in the shop some. I know I get very unhappy when I can't get in some play time for health reasons. 
Gail in NM,USA


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 15, 2009)

Glad the test went well. I hope the pain is gone! 

Parts look great as usual!!


----------



## Maryak (Apr 16, 2009)

ariz, Dave, Gail and Steve,

Thanks guys for your kind words, support and concern. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Fuel ether this or ether that  - seriously ether, kero and castor oil.

Made a little more progress with the venturi today.

Cross drilling for the spray bar.






Reaming the plain section of the spray bar location.






Set up for rounding the cross section.






 Rounding the cross section.






Big post Easter sales so we're off to see if there is cheap floating floor planks ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Mo deller (Apr 16, 2009)

Great work Bob and nice to see the set up for everything. Good shot of your reamer. I notice the angle on it doesn't seem as shallow as the others you showed. Do I take it that the deeper you need to ream the more you need to grind off?

Peter.


----------



## Maryak (Apr 16, 2009)

Peter,

I would say yes to your question if it was a blind hole otherwise it doesn't seem to matter all that much on a through hole.

Thanks for your support and interest. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Apr 20, 2009)

Another week slips by - ah well that's life ;D

The venturi is almost finished only the bolt holes to drill.

Machining the taper on the flanged end.






Various views of the venturi.
















Where it's supposed to end up on the engine.






And now to rest my weary bones. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Paolo (Apr 20, 2009)

ohhhhhh yessss you have to!!!! :big: :big:
Nice job... :bow:
cheers
Paolo


----------



## Maryak (Apr 22, 2009)

Thanks Paolo - for your support and encouragement. :bow:

Managed to finish the venturi and fit it to the crankcase.

Drilling the holding down holes for the venturi.






Next came how to hold it in place on the crankcase whilst I drilled the stud holes......... Messed about with various clamps and various ways of holding said venturi all to no avail. Tea and a fag later I ended up holding it in place with my hands and giving the tapping drill a judicious tap with a hammer to locate hole 1.






This was tapped and stud one fitted.

Guess what the bloody nuts wouldn't fit 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 so the venturi went back in the lathe and the diameter above the flange was reduced to cater for the nuts.

This secured things whilst I drilled the diagonally opposite hole.






Again tapped and studded.

Back to the drill and drill the last 2 holes and the centre hole into the crankcase for the inlet valve.

The completed fit of venturi and crankcase.






Nice shot of my middle age spread ??? ??? ???

Enough brain drain for one day, well for me anyway :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## itowbig (Apr 22, 2009)

middle aged spread :big: :big: the way i like to loke at this is it took me 40+ years togrow the darn thing so im good. :big: ;D :bow:


----------



## Maryak (Apr 22, 2009)

itowbig  said:
			
		

> middle aged spread :big: :big: the way i like to loke at this is it took me 40+ years togrow the darn thing so im good. :big: ;D :bow:



Thanks Sid,

Good one. :bow: I must remember this for future smart alec comments.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Apr 22, 2009)

Nice looking spread!.....er ah Carb!.....

 ;D

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Apr 23, 2009)

Dave,

Thanks for your compliments - although I'm not sure which you like more. :

Tried my model makers glass bead blaster today. What a P.I.T.A. probably more due to operator ineptitude rather than the tool. 

Marking out the crankshaft for X drilling the inlet valve hole.






Drilling the holes for the holding down bolts.






Masking up for the blasting.






The blasted crankcase.






Have a great day, well at least better than me, (suffering from FIM disease).

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel (Apr 23, 2009)

itowbig  said:
			
		

> middle aged spread :big: :big: the way i like to loke at this is it took me 40+ years togrow the darn thing so im good. :big: ;D :bow:



I _AM_ in shape - round is a shape!


----------



## Metal Mickey (Apr 24, 2009)

Superb work Bob. Its getting closer........wacth for the kick back on starting it may flip the world over! Austalia could be the new North and the UK could get some sunshine!!!!! :big:


----------



## Maryak (Apr 24, 2009)

Tel,

Thanks for your input - pleased to note your impeccable taste has not deserted you. ;D :bow:

Mike,

Thanks for your continuing support and kind words. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## bearcar1 (Apr 24, 2009)

Most impressive I must say. Most impressive indeed. :bow:

BC1


----------



## bronson (Apr 25, 2009)

This is one nice engine that you are building. I love the step by step pics that you are posting have learned a lot from your posts.


----------



## Maryak (Apr 25, 2009)

BC1 and bronson, 

Thanks for your support and kind words. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5 (Apr 26, 2009)

Hi Bob,
I haven't looked in for a while as life got in my way. Mighty fine progress and great pictures as always.  :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: 

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak (Apr 27, 2009)

Phil,

Welcome back from your real life : and thanks for your support and interest. :bow:

A little more progress as another week commences. Made a start on the spray bar as follows.

Some brass for the spray bar.







Fiddling with the change wheels to gash the thread before running the die over it.






The thread gashed.






Trial fit of the bar and venturi.






Enough excitement driiling the needle hole I've postponed until tomorrow.


----------



## Maryak (Apr 27, 2009)

Hi All,

Managed to finish the spray bar today now all that is left is the throttle. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Here's what went down.........

Reaming the needle guide using an old needle as the reamer.






Setting up to X drill the fuel outlet hole.






X drilling the outlet hole - As the bar is pretty fragile now, I tried to support it as much as possible.






Seeing is believing - the hole came out in the right place.






Reversed in the lathe and forming the hose tail.






Drilling the needle seat.






Opening out the fuel inlet pipe.






A couple of views of the spray bar assembled in the venturi.











And that's it from him.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn (Apr 27, 2009)

It's looking really good, can't wait to see it run - there's an engine run down at the aircraft museum on Sunday - perhaps you could start yours up in competition...... 

Sorry if it's a dumb question but is there a reason you started the thread on the lathe then finished it with a die?


----------



## Maryak (Apr 28, 2009)

Hi Gavin,

Thanks for your support and interest. :bow: :bow:

No dumb questions - only dumb answers, (hopefully not this time). :

3. reasons:

1. As a metric lathe the change gears I have don't allow for accurate cutting of some imperial threads. e.g. 24 tpi.

2. Because this is a pretty small dia I could not get the threading tool deep enough without removing the dead centre - A risk I didn't want to take and I don't have a half centre, (on my roundtoit list).

3. By gashing the thread I was much more confident that the die would run true.

Hope that solves Bob's convoluted thinking for you. ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn (Apr 28, 2009)

Bob

Makes perfect sense, I'll remember that if I need to cut a similar thread, I have the AL320G as well, thus far I've only cut metric threads on it. Off topic slightly if I may - what oil do you use when you change the oil in the gearbox of your AL320G?

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak (Apr 28, 2009)

Gavin,

I used Shell Tellus 68 which is on of their hydraulic oils and is SAE 20. Main reasons are SAE 20 is the correct viscosity, reasonable demulse characteristics, mild EP pack and I obtained it for free, (the true reason  :).

I also use it as straight cutting oil.




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kvom (Apr 28, 2009)

I like the trick with the two squares. Now I need to get a second myself.

Any reason you couldn't drill the cross hole before turning it down?


----------



## Maryak (Apr 28, 2009)

kvom,

Thanks for your support and interest. :bow:

My main worry was that the shaft would be too weak to handle the threading, whichever way it was done and with the axial hole drilled 1st you know exactly when to stop X drilling.




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (Apr 28, 2009)

Hi Guys,

Not much went down today. 

We are off to Harvey Bay Qld in the morning for our 50th re-union of my intake into the RAN, (Jan 1959).

Should be a good bash with lots of tall stories and many many anecdotes. Will be back next Tuesday.

Small amount as follows:-

The needle valve holder knurled.






Tapping the holder.






Trial fit on the spraybar.






See yu'all later
Bob


----------



## gjn (Apr 29, 2009)

Enjoy your trip, 

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak (May 4, 2009)

Gavin,

Thanks, we just returned - Had a ball told lots of lies and drank more than was good for me. Ah well my normal life awaits me tomorrow.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (May 6, 2009)

Hi All,

Finished the spray bar/throttle assembly and drilled the inlet valve hole in the crankshaft. 

The spray bar with throttle reamer offered to the engine.






Setting the needle valve prior to soft soldering in position.






The completed carburettor/throttle/spraybar, can anybody think of any more names. ???











Setup for drilling the inlet valve hole in the crankshaft.






Have a great day
Bob


----------



## steamer (May 6, 2009)

I hope Mrs Maryak is not looking in vain for that pack of needles? ;D

Looking good Bob! I can almost hear it running!

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 6, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> The completed carburettor/throttle/spraybar, can anybody think of any more names. ???



Gizmo
Gizmatic
Gizmatron


----------



## Bill Mc (May 6, 2009)

vaporizer, atomizer,fuel mixing valve


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 6, 2009)

Bill Mc  said:
			
		

> vaporizer, atomizer,fuel mixing valve



That's what i said.


----------



## Maryak (May 6, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> I hope Mrs Maryak is not looking in vain for that pack of needles? ;D
> 
> Looking good Bob! I can almost hear it running!
> 
> Dave



Thanks Dave for your continued support :bow: It almost never pays to needle SWMDBO 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






			
				stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> Gizmo
> Gizmatic
> Gizmatron





			
				Bill Mc  said:
			
		

> vaporizer, atomizer,fuel mixing valve



Thanks Steve and Bill :bow:

I Really like GIZMATRON or &#1041;&#1045;&#1053;&#1047;&#1054;&#1050;&#1054;&#1051;&#1054;&#1053;&#1050;&#1040;.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (May 7, 2009)

Went into the shop this morning and thought what's next ???

I know buy a prop.....Looked in the wallet and that was a no no so......

Assemble the beast. 

The Assembly

Some brown paper for the gaskets.







The interface gasket between the cylinder and the crankcase.






The end plate gasket.






The Gizmatron gasket.






Used some bits from the 3CC to get it all together till I fill the wallet for a bigger prop.
















Whats left ??? ???

Make a stand, get a bigger prop and some fuel tube. Make a starter for my drill from a door stop and the we really will see if it works.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (May 7, 2009)

My eyes say that's a great looking engine....Nice Job!

My fingers find the image a bit menacing and have asked to not be volunteered to start it!  They think a drill starter is a great idea! :

Can't wait to see here come to life. I always get excited when that time comes.....

PICTURES AND VIDEO PLEASE!

Dave


----------



## Paolo (May 7, 2009)

Very impressive project!!! I'm waiting for his "music"..!!!!
Paolo


----------



## 90LX_Notch (May 7, 2009)

Bob

Looks great. I can't wait to see the video of it running. I have been following this thread every day. I won't know what to do without my daily dose of Maryak 10. This build, has given this newbie a great amount of information and techniques and I am ever grateful.

thanks,
one of the other Bobs


----------



## ariz (May 7, 2009)

:bow: :bow: :bow:

Bob I didn't follow the thread continuosly, for many reasons, but now I'm astonished

Superb!

This work reinforces my intention to try the construction of an IC engine, after a couple of steam engines: too ambitiuos?

anyway, great work and very well documented!

regards
ariz


----------



## radfordc (May 7, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Went into the shop this morning and thought what's next ???
> 
> I know buy a prop.....Looked in the wallet and that was a no no so......



What's with "buy" a prop? Let's make one instead! A hunk of lumber, some bandsaw work, and an hour with a rasp and sandpaper and it's done.

http://www.marcee.org/Articles/HelicalPitchPropellers.html

For this use the lumber can be any old 2x4 with no knots. You don't even have to carve the airfoil shape if all you're looking for is a "test club".

Charlie


----------



## ozzie46 (May 7, 2009)

Not so fast here with "any old wood will do".

I fly RC and you want a well balanced prop to reduce vibration. These engines turn in the thousands of rpm not hundreds and when you have a "club" turning that speed it is a lethal weapon if it comes apart. Even boughten ones need to be well balanced before use. An unbalanced prop can destroy an engine too. 
 Model wood RC props are made with a specific wood. I cant remember what it is as I use strictly glass filled nylon props as they dont normally fly apart unless damaged some how.

 Just my 2 cents worth.


 Ron


----------



## PhillyVa (May 7, 2009)

Bob,

I like the shop :bow: ...well lived in... :bow: not much unlike mine. You can hide new toys in there easy. I wish I could get in mine buy the honey do are happening now that it's getting warmer here in B.C.

A 2X4 with no knots would make a great test prop.

Oh by the way the engine looks great too. 

*The thread is very informative...keep up the great work. The thread is very informative...keep up the great work. The thread is very informative...keep up the great work. The thread is very informative...keep up the great work.

Warm regards

Philly*


----------



## kustomkb (May 7, 2009)

BEAST is right!

It looks awesome, well done.

Also looking forward to the sights and sounds.


----------



## cobra428 (May 7, 2009)

Bob,
Listen to Ron!!! I too am a model airplane r/c guy. I use to do what Philly said but it was for rubber powered airplanes and I carved them out of balsa. By the looks of that engine size and I'm guessing, I'm thinking a 14~15 x 10 wood prop would do you just fine, maybe even a 16 x 8. Most props are made of beech or maple not a pine 2x4. Spend the $15 bucks and live long stickpoke
Tony

PS the wood is also a tight grain 1/4 sawn wood.

Oh, by the way NICE Engine!!


----------



## Maryak (May 7, 2009)

Dave, Paolo, Bob, Ariz, Charlie, Philly, Kevin and Tony,

Logged on this morning, (here in South Oz), to find all your kind words and suggestions 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




















*ALL OF YOU*.

In the interests of safety I will buy a prop. My woodworking skills are exceeded by my good looks so you now know a gnat has more chance of a good prop in wood. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




On with a stand.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 7, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> The Gizmatron gasket.



Haahahahhahahhaaa!!!!


Hey bob! In the interest of safety, why not make a steel flywheel for the test and tune session and then when the bugs are worked out put a prop on it!


----------



## PhillyVa (May 7, 2009)

Say Bob,

You can go this way...make a duplicator. The one I made only took me 1 1/2 years to build. I use it for other things other than props.

http://www.wood-carver.com/gemini.html

There are simpler designs out there and are quite simple to build. I had some plans...if I could only find them. :wall:

Regards

Philly


----------



## radfordc (May 7, 2009)

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Not so fast here with "any old wood will do".
> 
> Ron



Store bought R/C props are usually beech or maple. 

I've made a dozen or so using pine, bass, and maple. Maple is too darn hard for hand tools. The wood should be straight grained with no knots...that's really all that's important. If money is no object please do buy one instead of making one.

Charlie


----------



## Maryak (May 8, 2009)

Steve, Philly and Charlie,

Thanks Guys, :bow: :bow: :bow:



			
				radfordc  said:
			
		

> If money is no object please do buy one instead of making one.



I wish - 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




However it's probably cheaper than a trip to hospital or down the river Styx, besides I'm having a 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 just thinking about making one.

Ok today saw me get part way through making a test bed to clamp the beast down whilst I try and get it to run.

Hacking off some rectangular tube for the test bed.






Set up for milling the test bed.






The end squared off.






The slot for the engine.






Trial fit of engine and slot.






The holes will have to wait until Monday.

Avagoodweekend.
Bob


----------



## Mo deller (May 8, 2009)

Looking very good. 
It'll never fly though Bob that fuselage is much too heavy ;D

Peter.


----------



## radfordc (May 8, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> However it's probably cheaper than a trip to hospital or down the river Styx, besides I'm having a just thinking about making one.
> 
> Bob



When I was flying giant scale R/C with 2 cu in gas motors props were in the $10 range. I'm sure they are much higher now. I didn't mine spending two hours to save $10...especially since it was satisfying to make something instead of buy it. And, I still have all my fingers, too.

How can someone who designs and makes a complete engine be concerned about carving a hunk of wood?  ??? It's not rocket science. 

Charlie


----------



## Metal Butcher (May 8, 2009)

radfordc  said:
			
		

> I still have all my fingers, too.
> 
> How can someone who designs and makes a complete engine be concerned about carving a hunk of wood? ??? It's not rocket science.
> 
> Charlie



I build complete running engines.

I could not carve a propeller without a lot of practice.

Carving a point on a hot dog stick for cooking on a campfire is difficult enough!

I assume you can fly the plane in your avatar.

But do you make you own nuts and bolts?

You are obviously a very talented person.

We all have are own way of doing things. even if they don't make sense to the next guy!

Charlie, do you live near Cleveland, Ohio? I'd like to try flying your plane! But only if you came along for the "ride." :big:

-MB


----------



## Metal Butcher (May 8, 2009)

Ooops! I may have just made an embarrassing boo-boo.

I have very bad eyesight and my vintage monitor is getting worse. I know ...excuses, excuses. I just stepped over and used "Honey's" computer with a nice new larger LCD monitor. I have to be careful of leaving behind metal chips as evidence on her keyboard. After looking over my last post on this thread I was struck by a reality!

Charlie, that's not really you in a red T-shirt leaning on the wing of a small private plane, is it?
 :big: :big: :big: :big: :big: :big: :big:

I retreat to my shop laughing hysterically at myself for yet another blunder!

-MB


----------



## radfordc (May 8, 2009)

I live in Kansas City...not so close to Cleveland, unfortunately. Yes, I fly the Sonex as often as possible. I make parts for it, too, but not nuts and bolts. As far as carving a prop, I didn't know I could do it either, until I tried it and it turned out to be just like any other skill you learn.

Maybe this picture is easier to see on your monitor.

Charlie


----------



## Metal Butcher (May 8, 2009)

WOW! That's a beautiful plane!

It looks like a real full size plane to me!

Are you building the Maryak 10?

If not, you should give it a try. I bet you could finish it before I'm done with the red Deere.

-MB


----------



## Maryak (May 9, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> Are you building the Maryak 10?
> 
> If not, you should give it a try. I bet you could finish it before I'm done with the red Deere.
> 
> -MB



Let's see if it runs ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (May 12, 2009)

Hi All,

Our new home is starting to bite into my play time. Still I am happy about the shift in priorities.

Got a little more done today.

Boring the hole in the test bed for a fuel tank.







Tank and engine in the test bed.






Some Aluminium for the propeller backing and cone nuts.






Tapping the backing nut.






Knurling the backing nut.






The backing nut and propeller fitted to the engine.






Next is the cone nut, As I don't run DOS non of Marv's great programs run so it will need a bit of playing with CAD to get the offsets for the spline curve.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Paolo (May 12, 2009)

The sound is coming...!!! :big:


----------



## mklotz (May 12, 2009)

> Next is the cone nut, As I don't run DOS non of Marv's great programs run so it will need a bit of playing with CAD to get the offsets for the spline curve.



You don't need DOS to run my programs. They will run under COMMAND.COM, which is included with most MS OS releases. OTOH, if you're running UNIX, I can't help. There may be a way to do it but I'm not that much of a computer guru.

Most spinners I've seen are an ogive shape, and not a "cone" nut, so I presume you're talking about my OGIVE program. If worst comes to worst, send me the specifications for what you want and I'll be glad to run off the incremental cutting schedule for you.

If you need background on ogive mathematics, there's an excellent treatment at:

http://www.geocities.com/rocketguy_101/ogive/OgiveNoseCones.htm


----------



## cobra428 (May 12, 2009)

M10,
the other alternative from a spinner is this arrangement. You can use a starter motor with it also (if you decide to go that route)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL746&P=ML

http://www.tru-turn.com/product_line.html
Just so you get an idea of the diff shapes!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFT87&P=7
I can give you dims on the starter cone and you can use the rubber inserts with a drill if you'd like.

Nice Prop BTW, dia? pitch? Simtar? Just curious!

Tony


----------



## Maryak (May 12, 2009)

Paolo,

I sure hope so and it's great that you salvaged your small boiler. :bow: :bow:

Marv,

Thanks for your offer of help with the propeller nut and also for straightening out my poor terminology. Yes ogive is the shape I'm after. I drew what looks about right in CAD last night and derived a table of offsets from it. :bow: :bow:

Tony,

Thanks for your offer, I would be very happy to know the dimensions of a starter cone. My proposed Major OD of the propeller nut is 1". I will hold off on the nut so I can match them up. :bow: :bow:

The propeller is 11.5" dia and 7" pitch. It is locally, (Oz), made and was $AU5.50, can't remember the brand name but will write it down for you.


----------



## Paolo (May 12, 2009)

Thanks Marv..I'm curious to ear the sound of your magnificent engine!!!
Cheers Paolo


----------



## steamer (May 12, 2009)

Paolo  said:
			
		

> Thanks Marv..I'm curious to ear the sound of your magnificent engine!!!
> Cheers Paolo




I am also!.....but with all your fingers remaining firmly attached.......yeash! : ;D

Dave


----------



## cobra428 (May 12, 2009)

Hi M10,
Here's some pic's and a sketch of the starter cone (don't know why they call it a cone). I just found out that the Hobbyco rubber is loose in this cone. Hobbyco $1.99, Sullivan which I have $9.99 th_wtf1. It's only by a small amount maybe .03~.04. ....... Just measured Hobbyco rubber 1.40 OD. I would have thought by the pic of the eng. and prop that it was a 18" prop. I tried to eye your vice up for a guesstimate. Got to have the eyes re calibrated :big: Anyway here's the pic's anymore questions just give me a hollar.












This is in Inches!
This is my new home CAD system called HanCad It's never crashed on me yet Rof}
I have Inventor and Solidworks at home (from the job) but I spend 8hrs, a day doing that stuff :rant:
Good Luck I can't wait to see the video
Tony

PS the V is for belt starting boats/cars


----------



## GailInNM (May 12, 2009)

It looks wonderful Bob. 
I figure that I will either hear the first POP or you whoop soon. 

OOPS. Lets see -- distance between us divided by speed of sound equals about 11 hours. 

Nope, I am sure I will see the first POP posted here before I hear you whoop it up. Then I will know when to listen.

Gail in NM,USA


----------



## Maryak (May 13, 2009)

Tony,

Thanks for the info on the starter cone. :bow: Your Hancad is much more refined than my Crap-O-Cad, (which is why I bought Turbocad).  :

One further question, if I may, how hard/soft is the rubber insert and what holds it in place. ??? Oops that's 2 questions  

Gail,

Thnaks for your continued support and advise. :bow:

Yes it's getting ever closer to pop or poop time and if it's pop, I'll do the whoop in the video.

Paolo and Dave, 

Thanks guys. :bow: :bow:

I intend to try and keep my pinkies in their original positions hence all the long winded preparation. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428 (May 13, 2009)

Hi M10,
The silicon rubber is a med to med hard. Sorry I don't have a durometer for you. Something like a pencil eraser or a little harder. Just friction holds it in. it looks like a .01 to .02 interference fit. It takes quit a bit of 
hand pounding it into place.

This side out for spinner]





This side out for acorn style nut




Tony


----------



## SandyC (May 13, 2009)

Hi Bob,

My, My you have been busy, well done that man.
The engine looks terrific and I am eagerly awaiting the first run.

I would like to ask one question though.... how is your prop driver (back nut) connected to the crank shaft, it looks like you have threaded it?
If this is so, and the final front spinner nut is also threaded on to the same shaft, thus clamping the prop between the 2 then there is a risk (especially if you are using an electric starter) that the front spinner will slacken slightly under the engine compression, which would leave the prop, and both nuts capable of unscrewing from the shaft when the engine is running.&#160; NOT RECOMMENDED.

Normally, when a starter is used a separate spinner is fitted (with the front shaft nut inside it) which envelopes the prop hub, thus the force from the starter is applied more to the prop hub than to the spinner nut.
This would not cause the same, potential, loosening and is therefore a much safer option.

Having said that, it is not usually recommended that you start compression ignition engines using an electric starter, the forces are just so much greater than with a GLOW PLUG engine, which has much lower, and constant compression, and can lead to con rod damage or worse.

If you must use a spinner nut and the electric start, then might I suggest that you also use a standard prop nut to clamp the prop then fit the spinner nut as a lock nut.

Remember, make sure you run your drill in REVERSE when using it as a starter.... otherwise you could be there all day   ;D ;D

I trust you will consider this as a safety warning.

Congratulations on a great build.

best regards


----------



## cobra428 (May 13, 2009)

SandyC is right. I didn't notice how your prop drive washer was set up. Usualy on comercial engines the drive washer is on a taper with a woodruff key. Or a "D" hole and shaft. Some engines double nut the prop nuts. I never messed with desiels but when you start them don't you back off the compression screw and start tightening as you flip or use starter???
Tony


----------



## Maryak (May 13, 2009)

Hi Sandy and Tony,

Thank you both for your words of wisdom. :bow: :bow:

Back to the drawing board whist I find ways to incorporate everything I've learned into securing the propeller.

Better Safe than Sorry.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (May 14, 2009)

Back Again......

Had a think about securing everything so I don't get chased around by propellers and/or fingers or have the engine take off and self destruct.    ??? ??? ???

This is the result of the above process which is very often fraught with peril. If it's NBG please say so.

Using my modified, revised, (doesn't come to a sharp point) and totally a 1st time ogive calcs, starting the stepping out of the propeller boss/nut






The completed steps.






After filing and sanding.






X drilling for a tommy bar.






Counterboring and threading the boss






Trial fit, backing nut, prop and prop lock nut.






And with the boss added.






The backing nut needs X drilling for a tommy bar and the lock nut needs a star washer. If it looks OK we make a starter. (My fingers and my back can't handle a manual start).

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak (May 14, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> I never messed with desiels but when you start them don't you back off the compression screw and start tightening as you flip or use starter???
> Tony



Tony,

Apologies, so worried about locking everything tight I forgot to answer your question. In a word YES, (well thats how I do it). I also forgot to read the name off the prop - Senility is a pain. ;D ;D ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn (May 14, 2009)

Bob

If it's of any assistance I have a model engine starter, runs off car battery, with the cup and rubber which I'm happy to lend to you. I'm up in the hills at Aberfoyle Park. Let me know if you need it.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## cobra428 (May 14, 2009)

M10,
Very Nice! I don't flip props anymore either. I just like to push the sticks around on the transmitter ;D Well except on my 1/4 scale gasers (they do make starters for those too $200 ouch!). But then it's just one flip and I'm on my way.
Anxious for the video!
Tony


----------



## Maryak (May 15, 2009)

Gavin and Tony,

Thanks for your help and support. :bow: :bow:

The prop is a Bolly Clubman.

Well....... I read the idiots guide to fuel tanks and hooked mine up to the engine. 

Fuel tank Internals.







Connected Up.






I had a bit of fuel left from my previous engine so put it into the tank and gave it a flip. There was an encouraging pop pop pop. Mixed some more and.............





Hope your week ended as good as mine did.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## joe d (May 15, 2009)

Bob:

Yea! Congrats on the runner :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Thanks for bringing us all along for the ride.

Cheers, Joe


----------



## Mo deller (May 15, 2009)

Fantastic and a superb video as well :bow: :bow: :bow:

Peter.


----------



## GailInNM (May 15, 2009)

Thats great Bob.

I just checked the date for the start of the build thread. 4-1/2 months from first chips to first pop. Excellent , especially considering the amount of ongoing design refinements, the time you took to document this for the rest of us, and getting Mrs M's mansion built. Outstanding, and thank you for the ride. 
:bow: :bow: woohoo1  :bow: :bow:

We are all happy for you and proud of you.
Engine noise covered up the whoop in the video but I did see the thumbs up. 
Thanks again.
Gail in NM,USA


----------



## cobra428 (May 15, 2009)

Congrats M10,
This comes as a great suprise :big: No advanced warning that you were going to attempt Rof}
Great build and she looks and sounds great&#160; th_wav Thm:
It's amazining what goes on down under when I'm asleep here up over Rof}
Best Of Luck with your new Baby
Tony 

PS I had to get the Russky that I work with to translate. Boat guy!!
How did you start hand or drill? Show me!


----------



## 90LX_Notch (May 15, 2009)

Bob A BIG Congratulations!  Very well done!  Thom: Thom: Thom: Thom: Great video also. This has been a great thread and I certainly learned a lot from it and I am so happy to see that "little" puppy running as well as it does. Once again congratulations. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Bob


----------



## Metal Butcher (May 15, 2009)

Congratulations on the successful completion of you project and the wonderful video! :bow: 

It was an interesting and very informative journey to follow along as your project progressed. I remember you started the project right around the time I joined HMEM. When I saw the huge round billet of metal that would become the crankcase I thought to myself "This I gotta see!" Not that I had any doubt's about YOUR capabilities. For a beginner like me I could not imagine how that chunk of metal would become a motor!

You showed me how! Thank you! :bow:

-MB


----------



## SandyC (May 15, 2009)

;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Bob,

Congratulations on a superb piece of work, only thing wrong with the video was your great big grin that took up most of the frame.

I am sure you are over the moon with the results.

Ok chaps, what do you think?.... this was much too easy a project for him....He He.

Now how about a twin row 16cylinder radial? 8) 8) 8) 

Or even a STEAM BOILER?......   ;D ;D

Ducks as he leaves the room..... ;D :big: :big: ;D

Again Bob, very well done, documented and filmed.

Best regards.

SandyC.


----------



## cobra428 (May 15, 2009)

Your right Sandy that was to easy for him

I found Bob's next project!

http://www.agelessengines.com/
Tony


----------



## PhillyVa (May 15, 2009)

Bob

 :bow: Bravo :bow: well done on an excellent Thm: runner Thm:

                     woohoo1

Regards

Philly


----------



## crankshafter (May 15, 2009)

Hi Bob.
Tank you for the tour. Nice running engine Thm:
Waiting for the next project, wandering what it would bee?
Thanks again.
Regards
CS


----------



## kustomkb (May 15, 2009)

That's awesome Bob! Very well done. Congratulations.

 :bow: :bow: :bow:


----------



## ozzie46 (May 15, 2009)

Well done!!! Hip Hip Hurray! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:


  Ron


----------



## bronson (May 15, 2009)

Congrats engine sounds great. Nice video support team was a nice touch. Looking forward to your next build.


----------



## Maryak (May 15, 2009)

Hi,

It's 05 double splash in the morning here and I've had my heart starter, (coffee and a fag). This is followed by all of your kind words.

What a great start to the day - 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Next I plan to de-aluminise the shop, the mill and the lathe  followed by a rehash of my storage cupboards and a good clean up all round.

Thanks also for finding my next project. : - However my daughter bought me this for Xmas.....






So blood being thicker than water this will be my next project.

Thanks again everyone.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428 (May 15, 2009)

Hi Bob,
Good Morning! It's amazing I'm building a similar looking engine now. I've been trying to get it to run correctly.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4822.0
I'm sure we'll be talking again
Tony


----------



## Maryak (May 15, 2009)

Hi Tony,

Nice Hit and Miss, I will be seeking help on the electric side, have not touched SI engines since the late 1960's.

To answer your question about starting M10.

The initial pops came from a hand turnover. "Bugger it," lets try my drill fitted with the cone off my tachometer.

Away it went - frightened me half to death. 1/8 turn on the compression screw and some thread tape on the throttle, (it was vibrating open) and it settled down. Went through 100ml of fuel in around 4 mins.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428 (May 15, 2009)

Bob,
 It popped into my head on the drive home. The tubing and stopper that came with the tank are not compatible with diesel fuel, kerosene or gasoline just glow fuel. They will turn to jelly soon!!
you need to get a gas conversion kit from the place you bought the tank. That will just be the stopper.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD755&P=7
you need to buy this type of tubing
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD734&P=ML

Congrats again. stickpoke

I have to go and make a check valve for the fuel, it's in the plans but I thought I could get away with just elevating the tank, nope th_rulze Hope to have it running soon, then for the Ba Da Bling!!!
Tony


----------



## steamer (May 15, 2009)

That's Awesome Bob!...whoooohoooo. woohoo1...do you guys see the pedalstil grinder next to the engine vibrating and bouncing around!....it's a beast! th_confused0052 I love engines that scare me a little! :big:


You should be rightly proud for a job very well done. Thank you so much for taking me and everyone else along!
It feels good don't it

Go Bob,,,,Go bob,,,Go Bob......

Goodonya my friend! Thm:

Dave

I am grateful and flattered for the place in the credits.....but its all you buddy!


----------



## steamer (May 15, 2009)

Oh and as for your new engine project....HEHEHEHHEE!

Have I got a good reference for you when it comes time for the "Bling"

6" bore...10" stroke and 3600 pounds complete with twin 42" flywheels..........Looks very similar to your book cover.

That would be my "little" engine. hehehehehhe

Dave
 ;D


----------



## ksouers (May 15, 2009)

Bob, congratulations! :bow: :bow: :bow:

She sounds great, nice and smooth. Buzzing like a band of hornets!

Well done!



Cheers,
Kevin


----------



## cfellows (May 15, 2009)

Amazing... great runner, great project! :bow:

Chuck


----------



## seagar (May 15, 2009)

Good onya mate,great stuff.You deserve a beer now.

Thanks for a great trip,I enjoyed it all the way and it has inspired me to finish my first I.C. engine that I started some time ago.

Ian
(seagar)
Coffs Harbour,
N.S.W.


----------



## rake60 (May 15, 2009)

Beautifully done Bob! :bow:

We had an old baseball announcer here who had a signature closing line.
*"There was NO doubt about it!" *

I feel that is appropriate here...

Rick


----------



## kustomkb (May 15, 2009)

Dave, I watched it twice to see if it was the camera or the grinder  that paper was blowing good too.

BEAST is right!


----------



## Maryak (May 16, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> you need to get a gas conversion kit from the place you bought the tank.



Tony, Thanks for the info on fuel lines and tank caps. :bow:



			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> I love engines that scare me a little! :big:



Thanks Dave, :bow: Only one engine had me bluffed and that was the Hall Scott Defender V12 petrol engine running on 145 Octane Avgas, in the ASR's for rescuing downed pilots. (Many have caused severe tightening of the clacker valve on occasions. :)








			
				ksouers  said:
			
		

> Buzzing like a band of hornets!



Kevin, Thanks :bow: I bet it stings like one if you get close enough as well ;D



			
				cfellows  said:
			
		

> great project



Chuck, Thanks for your support. :bow:



			
				seagar  said:
			
		

> Thanks for a great trip,I enjoyed it all the way and it has inspired me to finish my first I.C. engine that I started some time ago.



Ian, Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for your support. :bow: When can we hope to hear the pops and whoops on the East Coast ???



			
				rake60  said:
			
		

> *"There was NO doubt about it!" *



Rick, Thanks for the kind words. :bow: If I didn't have a conscience I would let you keep believing the above. ;D



			
				kustomkb  said:
			
		

> Dave, I watched it twice to see if it was the camera or the grinder



Kevin, Thanks for your support :bow: It was the grinder, the bench, the floor and almost everything else. The camera was on a 3/4" thick rubber mat. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## stevehuckss396 (May 16, 2009)

I just saw the video. Congratulations! Get it polished up and take some good pictures. I will need them sometime early next month!


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## gjn (May 16, 2009)

Bob

It's been a pleasure and an education to watch the build. What's next - perhaps a 4-stroke?

Rgds - Gavin


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## kvom (May 16, 2009)

Wow! Now you need a plane to fly it! ;D

I learned a lot watching this progress.  :bow:


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## bearcar1 (May 16, 2009)

That scared the crikkies out of me when you gave the thumbs up. I could not tell where the fan disc was and all I could think of was something getting caught in its wake. I'm certain you were well aware of its presence but scary just the same to watch. I did enjoy the MOF music clip as well. 


BC1
aka: Bearcar1


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## Maryak (May 16, 2009)

Steve Huck, Gavin, Kvom and BC1,

Thanks to each of you for your support and offers of help. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Paolo (May 16, 2009)

"Finall"!!!!!!! Great sound Bob...nice sound track....and...Another masterpiece is done!!!! Great job....
Cheers Paolo


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## Maryak (May 16, 2009)

Paolo,

Thanks for your kind words and support during the build. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## spuddevans (May 17, 2009)

Well done that man Thm: Thm: Thm: Thm: Thm:

And what a surprise to be mentioned 

Your documentation of your build is an inspiration, and you've done a bang-up job on getting a great runner there.


Tim


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## ariz (May 17, 2009)

sorry for the delay, seen only today

congrats Maryak, great runner, project, docs!!! :bow:

and You are always generous in mentioning us, I was gladly surprised

best wishes for your next project
have a good day

ariz


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## Maryak (May 17, 2009)

Tim and Ariz,

Thanks to both of you for your support and encouragement. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## deere_x475guy (May 17, 2009)

Wow, really nice build and video Bob, congrats... ;D


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## Maryak (May 17, 2009)

Bob,

Thanks for your support. :bow:

Naybob
Son of Paybob
Only worth twobob.

or

Another Bob


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## NickG (May 19, 2009)

Bob,

Sorry not been on here for a while, been distracted by other things. Congratulations, what an engine and a great write up to go with it. :bow:

Well done,

Nick


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## Maryak (May 20, 2009)

Nick,

You were the 1st respondent in this thread and I thank you for your support throughout. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## NickG (May 20, 2009)

Bob,

No problem, everybody found it very enjoyable and probably learned valuable lessons.

Can't wait to see the hit & miss!

Nick


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## Philjoe5 (May 20, 2009)

Fantastic journey Bob. Thanks for taking the time to show us how it's done. The video was pure class.

 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


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## zeeprogrammer (May 20, 2009)

That was GREAT! Thank you so much for sharing.


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## Maryak (May 21, 2009)

Phil and Zee,

Thanks Guys :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## ozzie34231 (Aug 11, 2009)

Hello Bob,
Wandering through the files here at HMEM, and found this magnificent work. I mean your work in both the build and your descriptions, and I need to add, the pictures.
I downloaded all of your PDF's and read all 30 pages of this set of posts.
I have a couple questions about lapping, and if it has already been covered I apologize in advance.
I know you said you start with a medium grit, can you estimate what number grit that might be?
How much material do you leave for lapping?
What is the size of the lap compared to the bored size of the cylinder?
Is that the same for the piston?
And finally, when are you finished lapping; as soon as the piston will go in?
Any idea what the clearance is?

Many, many thanks for this gift you've given all of us,
Ozzie


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## Maryak (Aug 11, 2009)

Ozzie,

Below is my attempt to try and answer your questions.

I know you said you start with a medium grit, can you estimate what number grit that might be?
Coarse around 80, Medium around 120, Fine around 220.

How much material do you leave for lapping?
Between 0.001" and 0.002"

What is the size of the lap compared to the bored size of the cylinder?
The lap starts out around 0.005" undersize for the cylinder.

Is that the same for the piston?
The piston laps are a reverse of the cylinder laps. i.e. cylinder lap 3 x cylinder length and -0.005" cylinder dia, piston lap 1/3 piston length and +0.005" piston dia.

And finally, when are you finished lapping; as soon as the piston will go in, any idea what the clearance is?
If all has gone well I would estimate the clearance to be between 0.0001" and 0.0002"

I hope this helps.

Best Regards
Bob


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## ozzie34231 (Aug 11, 2009)

Cool Bob, Thanks,
Ozzie


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