# The Geneva .... My first Hit and Miss Engine



## bearcar1 (Mar 27, 2010)

Anyone care to venture a guess? 








BC1
Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 27, 2010)

Twins?


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 27, 2010)

Looks like two short pine boards. Notty one on the right.

Your gonna make a foot stool/ step for the shop?

-MB


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## bearcar1 (Mar 27, 2010)

MB, I'll probably wish that I was making a foot stool after this is all over with. But no, you have guessed wrong ;D Anyone else have any thoughts ???


BC1
Jim


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## tel (Mar 27, 2010)

Steam chest covers?


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 27, 2010)

I just took a second look using "Honey's" computer.

The pictiure looked like blury wood using my old 'clunker'.

That means I get another guess!

Here it goes...

The first step in making two cylinders! Right?

-MB


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## seagar (Mar 27, 2010)

Well,after a lot of thought(10 seconds) Irecon it's the start of a new project.
Arn't us old Aussies Smart.lol scratch.gif :noidea: :redface2: *club*

Ian (seagar).
Coffs Narbour,
Australia.


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## crankshafter (Mar 27, 2010)

Jim
As far as I can see, it's two lumps Rof} Rof} Rof} Rof}
 :big: :big:
Crankshafter


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## rudydubya (Mar 27, 2010)

Looking forward to following along with your build!

Rudy


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## bearcar1 (Mar 27, 2010)

seagar  said:
			
		

> Well,after a lot of thought(10 seconds) Irecon it's the start of a new project.
> Arn't us old Aussies Smart.lol scratch.gif :noidea: :redface2: *club*
> 
> Ian (seagar).
> ...



Man, you guys in the land of OZ are all such fartsmart smellersfellers Rof} Rof}



			
				crankshafter  said:
			
		

> Jim
> As far as I can see, it's two lumps Rof} Rof} Rof} Rof}
> :big: :big:
> Crankshafter



Why yes, there ARE two lumps. : : ;D



			
				Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> I just took a second look using "Honey's" computer.
> 
> The pictiure looked like blury wood using my old 'clunker'.
> 
> ...



MB, yes, now that you have donned your spectacles, you are getting warm

How about now? Can you see it?


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## Quickj (Mar 27, 2010)

Jerry Howells Farm Boy?


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 27, 2010)

Two cylinder hit-N-miss?

-MB


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## bearcar1 (Mar 27, 2010)

Tel and Zeep, I did not intentionally leave you guys out, I am sorry. That first photo does not have any depth of field to it and the lumps do look flat so that was a good guess. Twins? really Z', you could have ventured a better guess than that. Rudy, I thank you and am gald to have you along for the ride, it should prove to be an interesting one for certain as I am headed towards new territories of machine work, that is, setups and procedures that I have never performed anywhere other than in my mind so we all may be in for a wild ride :fan: YUM! 

Well as the cat has now been let out of the bag and the shroud of mystery been lifted, it is now known what is in store. This will be a record of my attempt at putting together a smallish hit and miss engine that I 'think' (do I ???) has been used as a team build here once upon a time. It is a design by David Kerzel and I find it to be very appealing in its lines as well as its size, we shall see. The photos show two lumps, I figured that as long as I was going to all of the trouble of machining one, with the distinct possibility of screwing up I would cut out two sets of everything for the big chunks as a back-up, hence the "one lump or two?" The game is afoot, release the hounds!!! TALLYHO!!!

BC1
Jim


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 27, 2010)

Okay! Uncle, uncle, I give up!

Give it up man! The suspense is killin me!

-Mb


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## arnoldb (Mar 27, 2010)

"The game is afoot"  - Now bring it on Mr Holmes

I'm looking forward to the mystery solved!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## crankshafter (Mar 27, 2010)

Jim-
Amazing what can hide inside two lumps of alu. Waiting to see you start carving. 
Hit'n miss? Air/ IC ?
CS


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## bearcar1 (Mar 27, 2010)

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> "The game is afoot"  - Now bring it on Mr Holmes
> 
> I'm looking forward to the mystery solved!
> 
> Kind regards, Arnold



Ah yes, I give a special thanks to Arnold for his unselfish support in this project :bow:

MB, as the late Mr. Paul Harvey used to say "...and now you know the rest of the story"

well almost, still a LOT of story as yet to tell.

BC1
Jim


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 27, 2010)

Okay, now that I was mentally tormented, sent on a wild goose chase riffling through all of Elmer's plans, and nearly missed my bathroom break! (real close call!) :-[

Where can I see the plans?

-MB


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## bearcar1 (Mar 27, 2010)

I'll only tell you after you have cleaned up the mess that you made on the way to the Dunny. ;D

BC1
Jim


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 27, 2010)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> I'll only tell you after you have cleaned up the mess yo made on the way to the Dunny. ;D
> 
> BC1
> Jim



Close call, but no mess up! This is the problem with old age, and why they sell lots of 'Depends'. 8)

If this silly post won't get me the plans, nothing will! ;D

-MB


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## bearcar1 (Mar 27, 2010)

The first step that I took down this road of uncertainty after the lumps were properly sized was to give them a coat of fresh layout dye and used my digital height gage on the drill press table to mark out all of the points of interest. These included the bore center, the mouth of the water hopper as well as all of the hole locations for the ancillaries and such that will eventually be attached to the block. Upon completing this task, all of these locations were carefully and accurately center popped and then drilled.







 Not wishing to set up the quill stop on the drill press, I cheated and used the appropriate sized cutter bits as spacers for the depths that I needed. After placing the part on table I lowered it until I could 'touch off' the top of the part while the quill was fully extended, then by placing the spacers under the part and drilling to the end travel of the quill, each hole was a perfect, identical depth.






The next step was to mill the pocket in the side flank of the block where the cam follower guide would one day reside. This I did with the smallest cutter that I had which was .062" and required a series of light shallow cuts to depth and then a final cut to the markings to clean up the sides.






Before I got too far along I tapped the hole in the top/rear of the lump, 8-32 to accept the drip oiler. This step could have been done later but I wanted to be sure to have enough metal to assure a straight threading of the hole. After the tap reached a depth that would be below the top surface of the cylinder tunnel I counter bored the hole about .375" so that the tap would be able to reach full depth. All other tapping went well albeit a bit time consuming. I'm going to stop here as "old what's her name" :big: says that dinner is almost ready.

BC1
Jim


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## tel (Mar 27, 2010)

> Man, you guys in the land of OZ are all such fartsmart smellersfellers rotfl rotfl



You speak remarkably fluent Orstrayian yerself, for a bloke from Ill, Ioll - that place with Chicago in it.


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## ksouers (Mar 27, 2010)

tel  said:
			
		

> You speak remarkably fluent Orstrayian yerself, for a bloke from Ill, Ioll - that place with Chicago in it.



Tel, we just call that state Silly-Noise. ;D


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## Maryak (Mar 27, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Tel, we just call that state Silly-Noise. ;D



That I get, but how do you get Arkensaw from Arkansas ??? even in Oz, we have not managed such a feat of English manipulation. :

Best Regards
Bob


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## ksouers (Mar 27, 2010)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> That I get, but how do you get Arkensaw from Arkansas ??? even in Oz, we have not managed such a feat of English manipulation. :
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



We blame the French  :


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 27, 2010)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> That I get, but how do you get Arkensaw from Arkansas ??? even in Oz, we have not managed such a feat of English manipulation. :



Sorry to hear that. I'm sure you'll get it eventually though. ;D

(Father's side is from Arkansas...Little Rock, Malvern, Tulip, Hot Springs...some of you know these places. Daughter and I were just talking tonight about Eureka Springs.)


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 27, 2010)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> Twins? really Z', you could have ventured a better guess than that.



Not so sure about that. But I was really going for 'two of something' like a twin cylinder something. I just don't have the knowledge yet to express it well. I won't tell you what was in my mind (it was way off)....but as it turns out...it doesn't look like I was too far afield with 'two of the same' :shrug: ???

Looking forward to the build.


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## bearcar1 (Mar 28, 2010)

;D Zeep, you've been staring at entirely too many Rorschach test sheets my friend, they are just two lumps of Allie block. Trust me. That's ALL they are, now, repeat after me, "I will cut down on my M&Ms intake for the next month"  Go on, say it. :big: :big: :big: (I wonder if they make a 'patch' for that?) ;D And Tel, "Iz jus' a po' fahm boye from donstate ya'here?" :big: :big: WoW! maybe I should cut down on the M&Ms, that or give up that third bowl of Captain Crunch every morning...... NAAAAAW! ... That would be like cutting the oxygen flow to my brain off (as if that hasn't happened before, it's the excuse I use for being this way) *bang* Rof}

Anyway, this A.M. found me setting up this first block in the lathe chuck to begin the process of hollowing out the water tank. I chose to do this step first rather than boring for the cylinder sleeve first, because I figured that if I screw this step up, at least I would not have wasted the time on the bore. ??? As can be seen here, I am using a wiggler and a dial indicator to exactly set up the center of the block that previously had been rapped hard against the chuck face with a wooden mallet. 






I took quite a bit of time in this step to get the runout to be so negligible it was not funny. The needle had virtually zero deflection up as close to the chuck as I could get as that is where the most significant movement would occur.






The drawings spell out a cooling channel that runs around the cylinder sleeve and is accessed through a .375" slot that is milled into the bottom of the tank. In order to pick up this dimension during the cylinder boring operation I drilled a .375" hole that dead ended at the center line of the cylinder. 






Then it was "off-to-the-races" with the boring bar. Now I know how a wren must feel when it is building a nest in a knothole of a tree   Good lord does this equate to some serious sphincter tightening time!! A more or less BLIND 8) hole inside a solid block. Needless to say the use of carriage stops on both sides of the apron were in order as well as the frequent shut down of the machine in order to clear the scrap curls out of the cavity as it became increasingly larger in size as I proceeded.






I did not have any calipers or measuring device that would fit inside the entrance hole so I made due with a short length of copper wire that I cut to length and used that as a extremely inexpensive bore gauge. If I was not able to fit the wire inside the tank than I had not bored it out far enough and proceeded to do so until the wire would fit inside the walls of the tank. Whew! what an adventure this turned out to be. After it was all through I was pleased with the overall results and decided to take a break for a bit as I was wound up tighter than an eight day clock from all of the excitement of the morning.
















BC1
Jim


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## arnoldb (Mar 28, 2010)

Wow Jim - great work :bow:

As to my tiny part (thank you for the mention ), it is completely insignificant in the greater scheme of things.

I'm really looking forward to the rest of your build!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 28, 2010)

Great post Jim. Looking forward to more.

Capt'n Crunch eh? Might be interesting to take a poll sometime and see what cereal machinists prefer. Since no one can class me as a machinist (yet)...I don't have to say.

Oh...and I did not say...nor will I ever say..."I will cut down on my M&M's"...Are you nuts? ;D


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## bearcar1 (Mar 28, 2010)

........Are you nuts? ;D

Well yes as a matter of fact I am, funny you should say that, why do you ask? Rof} AFA the Capt'n Crunch goes, I figured I may as well enjoy it while I can as it won't be too much longer that they will be spoon feeding me oatmeal and mopping up the drool. EEWWW!. :big: :big: Thank you for your kind words Z', they are mucho apprecinande.
How's yer "little engine that wants to" progressing?


BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Mar 29, 2010)

Before I go into a current update of progress I would like to back up just a bit and talk about this engine in general. It was designed by David Kerzel, who is a member of the Florida AME organization and is being built from his drawings. The bore of this engine is .750" and the stroke is .800" with a flywheel diameter of 3.500", making it a nice size with pieces that aren't so small they require magnification to see : ;D. It features a simple points type ignition as well but I suppose that the Hall effect setup could be employed. I have a couple of sets of castings for hit and miss engines in my possession but found that this particular design, using barstock, had the lines of a foundry based model without a lot of complicated setups, we shall see about that last part as I go along. I've received several inquiries as to the name. "Geneva" was my Mother's name and I felt compelled to name it after her and the memory of her should provide me with the necessary fortitude and determination to see the build to its completion. Her favorite color was Yellow and my plan is to paint it as such and trim it out in Red and or Green pinstripe. Now having said all of that, let us continue.

After successfully completing the hollowing out of the water hopper I was stoked as I had the feeling of "so far, so good". Next up I had to turn the lump 90* in the four jaw and perform the same set up steps I used previously, to get the bore center located, and after achieving that, proceeded to bore the lump through to .950", this design calls for a cast iron sleeve to be press fit into it. I first used a .250" drill in the tailstock to drill completely through the block, then went to .625" and then .750" before using the boring bar to bore to final size. I used a stone to clean up the cutter before the last two final passes and the 6061 material cleaned up smooth as a baby's back side after a bath. (don't ask ) 






Next up I put the trepanning cutter I had into action and cut the counterbore at the mouth of the hole that would receive the flange on the press in cylinder sleeve.






The next step required was the undercutting of a groove in the center of the bore and this is where that .375" hole that was drilled to start the water hopper comes into play. I do not have DRO capabilities in the shop and I did not want to take the chance of 'missing the mark' and you all know what that can lead to, (don't you ???) so by first drilling the hole I established the edges of the counterbore and all I then had to do was 'merely' machine to the edges of that hole. Other than having to crane my neck to "look up the skirt" of this part, it wasn't too bad. With the assistance of my small goosenecked flashlight, this went reasonably well. That is after finally getting the cutter ground and set to the proper height. 










With that out of the way I decided to turn the radius for the 'lip' on the front of the block and that again was fairly straight forward. Again, "so far, so good". I have a long way to go still but  after having success up to this point, I am feeling pretty good. I'll have to see about taking the piece over to a friend's shop, as he has a rotary table, to cut the 'chin' under the front portion of the block as well as the 'hump' over the top rear portion of the cylinder. 











At this point, with the successful machining of the first block, the second will be put aside for another day. Next up I think I'll do the base plate.

BC1
Jim


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## crankshafter (Mar 29, 2010)

Jim.
Nice work on the "lump" . The wrightup aswell.
I'll be watcing you :big:
Ps. Is it possible that you can put up a drawing/pic. of the engine?
Regards
Crankshafter.


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## 4156df (Mar 29, 2010)

Jim,
You really do an excellent job of showing us how it's done. Nice machining too. I just went back and re-read the whole thread. Terrific write-up.
Dennis


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## techonehundred (Mar 29, 2010)

Is this the same engine? If so he has downloadable plans on the page.
http://www.floridaame.org/GalleryPages/g1h0106.htm


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## bearcar1 (Mar 29, 2010)

Crankshafter, I thank you for your kind words and support, and yes that site that Techonehundred has shared with us is where these drawings came from. Now EVERYONE will be wanting to build one :big:


Dennis, I thank you for your kind words as well, after viewing your work in progress that is quite a compliment indeed. :bow: I just hope the rest of this build goes well, we shall see.


BC1
JIm


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 29, 2010)

Ah...I was glad to see the pic of the engine. I understand a lot more now.
I really enjoyed the write-up about Geneva, yellow etc.
Nice to know why people build what they do...especially nice when it has stories like yours.


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## bearcar1 (Mar 30, 2010)

Thank you Zeep, I probably should have covered my reasons of motivation earlier and you are correct, a picture IS worth a thousand words, if only they were worth $$$$$, we all would be rich :big:

The drawings call out for a base plate that is .600" thick so I began with a length of 2.000" wide stock, .625" thick, that will get skimmed down to the proper dimension after all of the holes have been marked out and drilled. After squaring the lumps, remember I said I was going to be making two of all of the bigger chunks, I again used the digital height gauge to lay out the required hole locations and proceeded to drill the holes that would be used to mount the cylinder block and bearing standards to the base. These would be attached to the base with hex head cap screws but I was almost going to use some flat headed countersunk fasteners instead but finally elected to go with the former to eliminate some of the potential headaches that can come with not getting the holes and the angled fasteners to properly line up after assembly. (don't ask ) Plus I had some in the drawer from another time gone by.  If you look closely at this image you will notice a couple of 'extra' lines that seemingly do not have a purpose. C'mon, really ??? Would I do something like that? yeah, probably. ;D











BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Mar 30, 2010)

I had to accompny 'old what's her name' ;D ;D for a bit so I had to cut things a bit short on the last post but am back now and can finish up where I left off. As I said previously, there were lines that did not have any apparent use, not so. I got lazy and did not feel like breaking out the edge finder and dialing in the centerline of the plate so I used these phantom layout lines as a guide when I cut the shallow trough. As can be seen in the first image I have begun a test cut down the middle of the plate to see how well the cutter would perform and after seeing that it was satisfactory I increased the depth of cut and proceeded the full length. The deeper the cut became, the width also increased, so when the cut was approaching the lines, all I had to do at that point was make any corrections in the 'Y' axis to make/keep the advancing cutter centered. I used two sets of these lines between the center of the plate and the finished width markings and it was simple and effective for someone not having DRO or for the just plain lazy. ;D 












Next step was the 'turn out' portion at the bottom of the base. Using a ball end milling cutter I was successful in achieving this by once again using the "cut to the line" approach. Several passes were used and I found that by getting the cutter set to a finished depth +.010" and then advancing the cutter in the 'Y' axis in steps and making the full passes with the 'X' axis until again finished dimension +.010" was achieved I could then rotate the base 180* in the vice and perform the same steps but this time cut to final dimensions. All that remained at that point was to once again rotate the part 180* again and doing one more pass along the 'X' axis to remove the final .010" that was purposely left on in the previous setup. I wound up with both sides being exactly the same without breaking a sweat.











The bearing standards will be next I think and I have a few 'surprises' in mind for those pieces but I need to think about it for a while. "So far, so good" 

BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (Mar 30, 2010)

Real nice job there, Jim. I really like the way you did the "troughing", or whatever we call it. Profiling, I guess. Anyway, well done!

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Mar 31, 2010)

Thank you Dean, I failed to mention that I did a few trial runs on a small scrap piece in order to get the radius set correctly. The trough is called out to be .125" deep and at a specified radius so I had to experiment just a bit to get everything set correctly. Also, I had never used a flycutter for anything other than flat facing surfaces. This was interesting to set the mill head over and use the cutter in that method. It worked, but I was nonetheless acutely aware of the setup and cutter location. 

BC1
Jim


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## mklotz (Mar 31, 2010)

For the benefit of those of you who wish to use this technique and want to avoid experimenting to get the requisite head tilt angle, my program RADIUS implements all the required calculations.

BTW, the curve formed by this technique is a section of an ellipse; it is not truly circular.


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## bearcar1 (Apr 1, 2010)

Marv is certainly correct as usual (don't you just loathe guys like that :big in his statement regarding an elipse. Of course had I set the angle of the mill head over more acutely I would have ended up with a more dished cross section but as the only requirement for clearance in this case was .125" in the center, I was lazy cheated and did not follow the drawings exactly. ;D  The next most logical parts to be made were the bearing standards and caps. First it was a matter of sizing and squaring the aluminum pieces before proceeding to the lathe as can be seen here. The brass bar is used to assist the movable jaw of the vise to better apply pressure where it is needed most, in the center of the jaws and not toward the base as the jaw has a tendency to tilt when tightening up. I milled both pieces as a set to insure identical sizing.







I really admire the overall lines of this engine as it seems to possess more of a castings based model appearance rather than one made from barstock (even though this one is) but I did not particularly care for the squarish looks of the standards used in the original build and set off on my own to try and rectify that inconsequential problem. A few weeks ago, there was a thread/discussion regarding the usage of cyanoacrylate (super glue) as a means of holding odd shaped parts while machining. This is the method that I used to accomplish what I wanted to do though it was not without its faults and I will caution those that attempt to use these products in this manner to display and exercise extreme care in doing so. Proper eye protection should be worn at all times goes without saying. In my 'extras' box, I had a couple of disc brake, caliper pistons, that I had been wanting to use for a while and figured this would be the time. These pieces of steel are of a very good grade and once the chrome plating was cut through the base metal was a joy to work. This would serve as a known flat surface to which I used the adhesive, which happens to be a Loctite product, to mount the blanks to. I know what some of you are thinking and I have to agree but again, I had this vision and was determined to follow it through to its completion.






I had center popped the location of what would ultimately become the center of the crankshaft and used the dead center in the tailstock to position and hold the blanks to the surface of the caliper puck. A swabbing down with Isopropyl alcohol removed any traces of oil from its surface and I did not apply any activator although I do not think it would hurt anything. 






After a 24hr. period had elapsed, which I figured was a good length of time for the adhesive to cure I again incorporated the use of that dead center in the tailstock and a small-ish slug of aluminum to assist in holding the blank firmly in place. The diameter of the slug had been turned to the diameter of the shoulder called out for and was used as a lazy man's guide to final dimension. After roughing out the piece I switched to a .125" cutter that I had ground a radius on and used it to do the final profiling, that is to eliminate the 90* junction that I did not care for. 











Now then, I need to pause here a moment and relate to you all the first "OH S**T" :fan: moment that I encountered so far. In taking the next to last final cut to clean up the piece, it came off the backplate.    So, I had to start over again by laying out the piece anew and used my wiggler setup (the one I used to center the cylinder bore and water hopper cuts) to realign it back to true and perform the last cut. 






OK, no harm, no foul, a minor setback and off I went to do the other side. With that out of the way I was feeling good again and was back in the "so far, so good mode once again. 8)






That is until I went to begin getting them squared up and mounted to the base. Did you catch it?






To myself I was muttering Hey STUPID!!!! There are supposed to be a "L" and "R" part, yeah you know the same piece but MIRRORED.     :-[ :-[   th_wtf1 th_bs

Yeah, yeah, one little mistake. You know I was on autopilot, I knew full well about the parts being handed and did the layout with that very thing in mind and I STILL made two of the same piece. What a mahroo! :big:

Here is the replacement piece being final faced and the world was once again back in balance.






 Now if I had this to do over and I possessed a rotary table (why don't I own one anyway ???) I would mount the parts on it and use a ball end cutter in the mill to perform this step, it would be a whole lot easier than what I did but I got the job at hand done. One could argue that I could have gripped the part in a four jaw chuck as well but again, I "had a vision". Man I hope I don't get many more of those ;D

BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Apr 4, 2010)

It's been a few days now and I had been pondering how to proceed with machining the slant backs on the bearing standards that the drawings call for. Hmmmm. Now I've mentioned before that I am by no means a math prodigy and this problem was no different and only loaned itself to my ignorance and lack of attention in class as a young lad. However, I would like to extend a HUGE thank-you to member, Bob Warfield, for having provided what I have found to be a quite useful program called G-Wizard. With it one merely plugs in the known dimensions and the program does the heavy lifting and calculations and then 'fills in the blanks' of the variables in question. Another nice feature about it is that it displays a graphic representation of the function you are working on, it helps in visualizing what is what. After some down and dirty addition and subtractions to arrive at the basics required, I plugged in the numbers and lo and behold, the program spit out 22.795*. Man, that was so easy, thanks once again Bob. Now all that remained was to come up with a method of holding the parts at that angle accurately. Not having a Sine bar or angled parallels I decided to make a holding fixture. This was done by first squaring up a scrap piece of .375" plate and then milling a square recessed pocket into its surface and finally, using a protractor, set the plate up in the mill vise and used an end mill to surface the edge of the plate flat. I turned the plate over and milled a flat on what was the bottom edge and when completed, the fixture could be repeatedly removed and remounted in a vise as it now had a reference surface in which to do so. 






The addition of a drilled and tapped hole allowed for using a hold down clamp to securely capture the pieces for milling as shown below. I milled both of them at the same time so that I would be assured they were both the same. This probably was not necessary but it made me feel better. 






I'll work on the caps another day but for now "so far, so good" ;D

BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (Apr 4, 2010)

"So far, so good". You got that right, buddy. Things are coming along well, even with that pesky "handedness" problem.

Jim, if you want to use the super glue thing again, try putting a number of circular grooves in your work holding piece. Pic below to show what I mean. I've used these things for years, and that works well. They let the glue cure properly. I usually just let mine cure for, maybe 10 minutes, the get to cutting. Done a lot of gear faces that way, and never lost one yet.

Keep up the good work, and thanks for all the pictures!

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Apr 5, 2010)

Whatya' say Dean, you know, I saw your post before showing that little tip of using the grooved back plate when using the cyano- adhesives but I forgot all about it till you just mentioned it again. I can see that the grooves would supply more surface area for the adhesive to bite, not to mention the fact that the majority of it would not get pressed out of the joint in the mounting process. I have to try your method next time around, that is *IF* I remember to. ;D The egg holiday is over and today I did not achieve a great deal :'(. 

Below are the tools that I use primarily to locate holes for drilling and I would like to take a moment or two to discuss the procedure. I have mentioned before that I do not have DRO capabilities in the shop and having grown up seeing these methods used I find them to be quite satisfying albeit a bit time consuming. from Left to Right are drilling chuck with 00 center drill mounted, 60* center punch, carbide scriber, 1oz. ball peen hammer, 2" magnifying glass, digital height gauge. Of course my bearing standards and the bearing cap blanks that I worked on today. In the backround is the engine base, toolmakers square, and my cheapo dial caliper. ($12USD but they have been every bit as accurate as my Starrett ones and I don't have to sweat bullets about dropping them th_confused0052. During the layout of a part I try to make reasonably deep scribes where the lines intersect for the hole centers ONLY. After I am satisfied that everything is as it should be (except for the occasional th_wtf1 in doing mirrored items :big I use a magnifier and the carbide scribe to find the line intersects by 'feel', the extra fine point will "drop" into the deep lines mentioned previously. Once I am certain I have found the intersect I do a very light tap with the hammer and use the magnifier to inspect the pop mark and make any needed corrections in location at this time. Using the scribe again in the previously made pop mark I tap it just a bit harder and again inspect for location and go on to the next spot requiring this treatment. After all of the centers to be drilled have been found in this manner I switch to the normal center punch and give all of the locations a smart rap to make a deeper mark. For small diameter holes, this is as far as I go before drilling as the smaller drills will be fine starting using the pop marks, but if I require larger holes of say .125" I do one additional step and that is use the center drill in the chuck to begin drilling out the locations by hand before advancing to the drill press. For me this works out the best as my eyesight is not s good as it used to be and I have in the past drilled a hole off-location by not following this process :rant:. When I use this method the accuracy is quite good and I feel like I accomplished something as well. 






This is a close up of the caps after getting "the treatment".






BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (Apr 5, 2010)

OH, I _need_ a baby ball pein hammer like that! 

On the times I lay out for holes, I do it the same way, letting a sharp scribe or stylus fall into the intersection of the lines. It puts 'em where you want 'em. Or, at least, it puts them where the lines cross... I have a harder time putting the lines where I want them than punching the marks!

Thanks for the update, Jim.

Dean


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## Maryak (Apr 5, 2010)

Jim,

Nice work. :bow: I use the same method except for the hand drilling. I also use a scribing block, (surface gauge), because I don't have a vernier height gauge.

Dean,

A small piece of drill rod weighed, turned and tempered makes a great little punching hammer. Will take a picture of mine next time I find my shop.

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428 (Apr 6, 2010)

Nice Work Jim,
That's going to turn out to be a very nice engine!

Tony


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## Deanofid (Apr 6, 2010)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Dean,
> 
> A small piece of drill rod weighed, turned and tempered makes a great little punching hammer. Will take a picture of mine next time I find my shop.
> 
> ...



Bob, I have a number of small hammers. I was just being a bit covetous of Jim's little number. You know.

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Apr 6, 2010)

Bob, Tony, Dean, I thank you for your comments and support, it is reassuring to know that others do some of the same things that give me a feeling like I am a cave man sometimes.  That little hammer was a gift from my Dad many years ago, I believe it came off of the Snap On tool truck that used to stop by his shop once a month. I also have a 1/2oz. one made by Craftsman that was my Grandfather's, he used it for the same thing and also for 'cutting' gaskets. (you know, place the gasket material on the part and lightly tap around the edge to cut and/or shape and locate the bolt holes) Mine certainly is *the* thing :-* for what I am using it for . Dean, you are more than welcome to borrow it whenever you feel like it but you'll have to come here to get it. (ROADTRIP!!!!!) :big: Thanks again guys, I'm off to the shop for some quiet time now, after I finally got the caps drilled and studs made for them and the caps secured down. (Sorry, no photos at this time :hDe: Yeah, yeah, I know th_wwp, but you all will just have to wait till the next time around. "so far, so good".


BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Apr 9, 2010)

I've been fooling around with getting the bearings and the cylinder block lined up squarely on the base plate as well as aligned with one another and came up with this method. Although it is not a standard practice it seemed to work out for this application. I am pretty confident that the cylinder bore runs true and square through the block so this became my initial datum point. This is due to the fact that extra attention was taken in the layout and setup before the actual boring took place. Now all that was required was to extend and transfer that accuracy from the block to the bearing standards, insuring that they would be parallel to the bore. I found a piece of Acer Saccharum, that's hard maple for all of you brown stuff fanatics :big:, that had been a part of some wine bottle rack that never completely found its way to the trash pile ;D and turned it down to be a snug, press fit it the cylinder bore. the bore was just slightly smaller in diameter than the distance measured between the bearing standards so a step up was made on one end to accommodate that dimension. With this wooden dowel pressed into the bore it essentially was supplying me with a surface that I could use to position the bearings squarely to the bore and if I were to reposition the cylinder block for some reason, the positions of the bearing standards would follow along accordingly. No muss, no fuss, cheap and dirty, and relatively foolproof. Now in order to get the cylinder block aligned with the base to begin with, I clamped the base, on edge, to a large square V-block and used shim stock and cutter bits to pack the side of the cylinder until I had the cylinder at the correct height. A clamp was then used to hold the two parts together and using a transfer punch the locations for the mounting bolts were transferred to the block. Surprisingly enough, the holes came out in the exact same positions as what had been previously scribed in laying out. I just never really trusted myself to drill two parts like this and have everything line up the first time and to have all four holes come out this accurate was quite a pleasant surprise in itself. (now tell me none of you have ever drilled beforehand and found out later that one or two (all) of the holes did not line up. No really ;D) With the cylinder block holes drilled and tapped,and the lump bolted to the base, it was now time to affix the bearing stands and see if my rather barbaric plan would work. I once again inserted the wooden dowel into the bore and with a minor amount of fiddling and fussing was able to get the stands aligned to the base and firmly seated against the dowel to my satisfaction. Again using clamps and a transfer punch, those holes were located and drilled. 





















Now don't make fun of the extra long stud and the crappy bolts Rof}, they were what I had quickly at hand and will be replaced with proper hardware later. Overall things turned out well again as things go, I just hope it remains that way for the rest of this adventure. I'm certainly open to any and all suggestions and would love to hear of others experiences, this method seems to have worked for me. 
"So far, So good"


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 9, 2010)

I know you mentioned them...but I'm not letting you off the hook...
My only suggestion is to get rid of the crappy nuts.
Anything less than a good nut is rotten. ;D


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## bearcar1 (Apr 9, 2010)

You're absolutely right Z', those ARE crappy nuts , but do you have any idea how many crappy nuts I had to dig through just to find those ???, Let me tell you, it wasn't pretty. :big:

BC1
Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 9, 2010)

Hey, you're the one that brought it up. :big:

But just to be clear...

That was my only suggestion. Meaning...there's nothing I could say to make the rest of the project any better than you're doing. I'm watching with interest and enjoying.

P.S. If you had to dig through a bunch of crappy nuts then it may be time to get some new ones. But, if you're like me, you may not have a choice but to stick with the ones you have. :big:


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## bearcar1 (Apr 9, 2010)

Oh yeah, I think that I'll take your suggestion and stick with the crappy nuts I have, I've had them for a good many years now and it would be difficult for me to get rid of them now.  th_confused0052 (cold hands) ;D Thanks for your your kind words Z', hopefully this adventure will be successful. :bow:


BC1
Jim


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## arnoldb (Apr 11, 2010)

That's coming along very well Jim. And very interesting methods you're using too!

Regards, Arnold


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## bearcar1 (Apr 11, 2010)

Thanks Arnold, yes that could be considered an 'unusual' : method but it seemed effective for what needed to be done. I've been dreading (that is not really looking forward to) boring the hole for the crankshaft as I am scared of it being out-of-line as well, but in preparation to that critical step, I decided to provide for a method that would insure the alignment did not get forced out of square and also to allow for the bearing stands and cylinder to be exactly realigned if/when they would require removal. (I'm certain it will be multiple times before I am finished) ;D I am confident that all is aligned accurately at this point in time so I drilled a series of holes up through the bottom of the base into these two components and pressed in a set of .092" dowel pins to insure everything stayed that way before proceeding with the boring operation.
BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Apr 12, 2010)

Well lads, the time that I have been dreading fearing the most finally arrived and I could no longer postpone it nor ignore it . That would be the boring of the hole through the bearing stands/cap assemblies that the crankshaft will reside someday. This is what I came up with. I first clamped an aluminum plate to the backside of the mill table. This would act as my angle plate sans the lower leg. Now having used a dowel rod to align the standards I thought why not use a similar method to assure perpendicular alignment of the crank and after checking to be certain my lathe tailstock was true, I turned down an aluminum rod that was a smooth slip fit in the cylinder and long enough to extend past the front and rear of the base assembly. Next up was the use of a small set of V-blocks and clamps to hold this bar in a parallel horizontal position on the table. With this arrangement, by clamping the bottom of the engine base to that aluminum plate I mentioned previously, I was able to use a wiggler to indicate the center location that I had laid out prior to mounting the lump onto my homebrew mandrel. I first drilled a .250" hole through the stands and the mandrel and then followed that up with a .375" bit and finally used a .500" mill cutter for the semi-final sizing. These photos were taken after all of the excitement was over and I could breathe again. (no calls to 911 were necessary thank goodness :bow. All of the hold downs have been removed. I used an expandable reamer to bring the holes out to final size by creeping up on that dimension a few thousandths at a time Thm:. I also did a bit of profiling to lend a bit more of a scale appearance and will need to do the profiles of the bearing caps next as well as get rid of the crappy nuts :big:. "So far, so good" yeah! 

BC1
Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 12, 2010)

Wow. That's looking great Jim.

As for getting rid of the crappy nuts..."Choose wisely".


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## Maryak (Apr 12, 2010)

Jim,

Terrific, and a very clever setup. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## ozzie46 (Apr 13, 2010)

Nice work, very creative.  :bow: :bow:

  Ron


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## Deanofid (Apr 13, 2010)

Nice work holding write up, Jim!
Good use of the dowel pins to keep things lined up, too.

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Apr 13, 2010)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Wow. That's looking great Jim.
> 
> As for getting rid of the crappy nuts..."Choose wisely".


Thanks Zeep, I will use the utmost care in making my selection of suitable replacements :big:



			
				Maryak  said:
			
		

> Jim,
> 
> Terrific, and a very clever setup. :bow:
> 
> ...



Thanks Bob, I had given thought to setting it all up on the cross slide of the lathe as I have seen done in the past but could not bring myself to do it that way for fear of messing up. This way pretty much assured my success in getting/keeping everything in good order.



			
				ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Nice work, very creative.  :bow: :bow:
> 
> Ron



Thank you Ron



			
				Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Nice work holding write up, Jim!
> Good use of the dowel pins to keep things lined up, too.
> 
> Dean



Thanks also Dean. I scratched my *ahem* head for a bit to finally arrive at this set up. The dowel pins were a carry over from my Grandfather, he used dowel pins to keep assemblies lined up when he was doing machine work and I figured it would be of benefit in this instance as well. As far as the write up, I just hope that by demonstrating the methods I used it may be of help to others, lord knows I have picked up ideas and tricks from members such as yourself here at HMEM.

BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Apr 15, 2010)

Next up in this adventure series was the making of the cylinder head and I began by first turning out the blank that was to become the head from some round stock. The spigot shown below is a nice sliding fit to the bore of the cylinder block and will be used to assist in alignment purposes later on. But first some holes need to be carefully located, For this I used a spin indexer with the piece held in a 5C backed 3 jaw chuck. I use this same setup quite a bit and it has served me quite admirably for many years. One of these days I will break down and pop for a DRO but until that time arrives I'll use my proven methods. I was thinking of doing a separate thread outlining the steps that I used in order to illustrate to some of those that have never used a spin indexer before how it is done and will do so if enough interest is shown but for now I'l just paint some pretty broad strokes to save time. :bow:












The hole locations consist of two concentric bolt circles, one consisting of six holes for the clamping studs and the other has three positions marked out at 120* from each other that will become the valve locations and the spark plug hole. When doing the layout, the centerline of the valve ports have to be extended onto the side of the head as this will be the positions for the intake manifold and exhaust pipe.











After laying out all of the locations I placed the blank in a holding jig made from a scrap of hard maple block I had on hand, this made it easy to use my trusty, rather quaint, method of center popping. ( easy there Dean, you still may not have my hammer but you are more than welcome to borrow it ;D ) 
















And finally, drilling the holes for the clamping studs.






 Now for the valve ports, this was a bit more complicated, not really, but definitely more time consuming. With the part held in the four jaw lathe chuck it was centered using the dial indicator and wiggler method, (same set up and procedure used for locating the cylinder bore). I used a .250" carbide end mil cutter to cut the intake and exhaust ports. these holes do not go completely through the head but are a flat bottomed blind hole that intersects the holes for the intake and exhaust manifolds. After each port was cut, a #12 drill followed by a .187" reamer was used to extend the passages through the head. The small bit of tape is a reminder to me. That hole will be for the spark plug and will be treated to a different size and tapped later.














After indicting and drilling the spark plug hole the part was taken to the mill where it was held in the vice to drill the two manifold ports. I used two drill bits in the stud holes to get the proper 90* orientation and once again used the DI and wiggler to find the center, after which a .250" end mill was used to cut these passages. After all of the dust had settled, there is the partially finished head to date.











So far, so good. I hope you all have enjoyed the ride thus far. 
Kind regards

BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Apr 19, 2010)

I was in the right mood finally to get into the shop and do some work on this engine. A couple of 'in-between' projects that my friend wanted me to do (like 8 repo wheels for his 1920's American Flyer locos) man was that a PIMA but they got done and we pressed them on the axles over the weekend. Anyway, back to Geneva. The next step I thought should be the valve guides as they appeared to be an easy apprentice exercise on the lathe. I pulled a .375" bronze welding rod from the drawer and proceeded to cut it down to final diameter. once this was done it was a simple matter of turning a spigot on the end that would be a press fit into the cylinder head. I used a #00 center drill to just 'dimple' the end. This dimple would be used later to locate the center of the guide when it gets drilled, reamed and the valve seat cut. (whew, I'm not looking forward to all of that) Then it was parted off a bit over length and put aside until its brother was worked on. With both of the guides finished on the one end they were then placed in a collet using the small spigot to close down on and then the smaller tip that would become the spring seat was turned down and the piece faced to final length. I used the micrometer stop for these steps. I like using it as I can set it and forget it when making final cuts that require the precision. Enough for the day as I am tired and need to take a break for a while. 
















BC1
Jim


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## ksouers (Apr 19, 2010)

Jim,
Nice job on the head. It's coming right along. 
What are you going to use for the valve seats?


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## bearcar1 (Apr 19, 2010)

Hi Kevin, it's funny you should bring that up. The drawings do not call for any seats but I am considering installing something for that purpose. However, with no more usage than this engine will likely ever see, I doubt that they will be needed. Anyone else have thoughts on the subject? 

BC1
Jim


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## cobra428 (Apr 19, 2010)

Hi Jim,
I have no seats on my Coles H&M and no plans to put them in the Whittle, There's just a 45deg face cut into the Alum. Your right these engines will never see any work and not run for hours on end. On the radial the seat and guide are all one piece put in from the chamber then a special round nut holds it in from the top.

Well unless you plan on running it for hours on end instead of starting a new build :big:

Tony


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## Deanofid (Apr 20, 2010)

Coming along well, Jim.

I think you will do fine with just the guide material as seats, too. May not be the preferred way, but can still be a proper way. My vertical has the valves in a pocket, and the pocket assembly is made from aluminum.  I cut the seats right into the pocket assembly and have never had any trouble. That engine has about 10 hours on it.





Pocket, guides, and seats, all made in the same material.

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Apr 21, 2010)

Tony and Dean, thank you for weighing in on the subject of valve seats vs. plain head. I had *ahem*, 'thought' ??? about perhaps making up some chambered/cups as was mentioned or pressing in a smallish cast iron ring of some sort in the fashion of full scale practice, but have settled upon not installing anything and rely on the head itself to suffice. D. Kerzel seems to have done a pretty good job of this design so far so I can not imagine that he would have overlooked such a critical area otherwise. Now I just have to be extra careful when I cut the valve seats, this will be discussed later when the time comes. I 'puttered' around in the shop just a bit and decided to drill and tap the holes in the cylinder block for the head mounting studs. I carefully located the center on the bore and very lightly scribed a line at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions. Then I placed the head on the block using that short spigot that was mentioned previously to center the head to the bore and aligned the holes in the head over the scribed lines and held it all in place on a tooling plate with a short section of threaded rod screwed into it and through the hole for the spark plug, tightening it all down with a washer and nut. (sorry I did not get pictures of that ) Then I 'just' did begin to drill the hole positions with the clearance drill used for the through holes in the head. I removed the lump from the plate and had perfectly located spots that I drilled to depth after changing to the tap drill size for 5-40. I made up a tapping block from short piece of aluminum bar by first measuring across the cutter edges of the tap and using a bit of that diameter, drilled through the piece of rod and voila! a poor man's tap guide. I also made up a small plug that would set in the recess of the head in an attempt to prevent the guide form tilting but I doubt that that was really necessary in the big scheme of things. The X's on the part are the marks I use to help me keep track of what I have/haven't done already. In the first step I use a taper tap and when it is withdrawn I place a single "/" across the opening. Then when I have gone back and run the bottoming tap in the hole, I place another slash facing the opposite direction, forming the X pattern. This way I can tell what has been done to the holes. So far so good. :-X


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## Deanofid (Apr 21, 2010)

Those X's on the tapped holes.. Sometimes the simplest thing makes such a useful tip. I'm probably the only guy on the whole board who hadn't though of that. Thanks Jim!

"Puttering". My great uncle was a very methodical fellow, and took his time at everything.  As kids, we always said he puttered about. It seems to have become a part of my own life now. It's good, to putter.


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## SAM in LA (Apr 22, 2010)

Puttering

I have friends that spend there whole day puttering around and manage to get twice the amount of work done than I can while working.

Good tip about keeping track of which operations have been completed.

SAM


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## bearcar1 (Apr 23, 2010)

Ah yes, the skillful and elusive art of puttering is to occupy oneself in an aimless manner or to kill (time) in idling. Now I don't idle very well but I sure as hell am aimless a great deal of the time so I guess that I have mastered the art form in its purest form. :big: 

I set the head aside for the time being and decided to pursue the bits and bobs that hang off the side of the cylinder in order to take a breather from Aluminum for a while. In all of this activity my (Rigid) shop vac decided to puke a motor brush and I had been left with swarf beginning to take over every flat surface in the shop. A friend of mine gave me a _REAL OLD_ vacuum that was manufactured by/for Montgomery Wards, anybody still remember them? This thing uses a 40gal fiber drum as the canister and my old girlfriend would be hard pressed to outperform it in action. ;D It uses a 2.250" hose and I am seriously considering installing a duct and manifold system around the shop and have this beast connected to it in a corner cabinet using slide gates at the work stations. Just like downtown without the street lights as they say. Anyway, I figured that the pushrod guide would be a good place to start and after some digging in the stock drawer I found a short piece of brass that would suite my needs very well and began by first milling it to size (naturally). Now I thought, "why not make up two pieces at the same time" having the same idea as in the very beginning about making two of these engines, so what you see is the length required to do just that. The location for the through hole was scribed onto the end of the piece and was then put into the four jaw chuck to be centered. You guessed it, I used the wiggler and DI method again and once found, the hole drilled and then final reamed to size. 






Not having a set of corner rounding cutters in my possession (yeah yeah I know, someday) I wondered how I was going to accomplish the final shaping. I considered merely setting the piece at a 45* angle and creating a slanted style of corner but that really did not appeal to me and I have never seen that used on the real deal either. It was then I recalled that I had purchased a couple of cutters for the Dremel tool and one of them was for, you guessed it, rounding over corners. Hmmmm, "I wonder if.....?" Well, yes, it does work and work a treat I might add. 











Cuts of about .010" at a time and all was good in the world. The drawings call for a part that has the letter "P" profile and I made one that way, also not being one to leave well enough alone, formed one with the profile resembling the number "9". I like the looks of it just a bit better.






Overall, these parts came out of the whole deal to my satisfaction and I have been thinking ??? already about how I'm going to do the cam follower guide, and then the points ands then the crank and then, and then....... I dunno, such a long way to go but so far so good.

BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (Apr 23, 2010)

Oh man, Jim, I hate to tell you this, but your "P" came out backwards! 

Seriously, they turned out very nice. Good use of that (router?) bit. 
Are you done with that little hammer yet?...

; )

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 24, 2010)

Very nifty Jim.

Don't worry about the 'P' being backwards. If you try and fix it, the '9' may become a '6'..and that can lead to trouble. :big:


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## bearcar1 (Apr 29, 2010)

Yeah, yeah, "P", "Q", #9, #6, backwards, forwards, sideways, anyways, they all look the same after a while ;D. And no Dean, you may not have my hammer, it's mine so there . Now on with the show. This is the beginning of the cam follower guide, it started out as a piece of square brass stock that I had in the drawer. I did this on the fly, measuring the dimensions as I went along rather than laying out cut lines etc., it seemed to work out well. Using a .250" cutter in the mill the contoured face was cut a bit overly long as I could come back and do the final sizing later.






Then the piece was milled down to required size






.... and then flipped 90* and sized to final dimension once more.






I then switched to a .125" cutter and proceeded to open out the center portion of the piece, this would become the slot for the cam follower/latch to slide in. The bottom of this slot gets undercut in order to reduce the frictional losses. I'm not certain at this point that this step is necessary but the drawings called for it and who am I to argue the point. (don't go there )






After all of that, I cut the piece off the bar with a hacksaw and set the piece back into the vice to perform the final sizing as shown below. If you look closely you can see that I used a .250" cutter blank in the slot to keep the sides of the piece from being deformed during this operation, it fit very nicely in the opening with no perceivable side play.






Now this is where it gets a bit 'strange'. : Usually I use the barbaric method of laying out and center popping hole locations but this time I got lazy and did not really feel like messing around with that whole thing so I decided to use an even cruder means of centering the hole and that was to turn a bit of brass down to a diameter that would be a snug fit between the webs of the piece and drill a through hole in it using the size called out in the drawings for the screw clearance hole. With this 'jig' installled it assured that the location was central to the sides. In thinking back now, I got lucky in that I was extremely accurate with the previous machining operations and the hole came out just a few thousandths from its exact specified location. Whew!  The final step was to countersink the hole. I know, I got some chatter marks, but they will be covered by the screw head. For both of these last two operations I held the part in my drill vice but forgot to snap photos during the procedure so these are 'staged' after the fact.











And the completed part.






I'm thinking that things will begin to slow down just a bit from here on as I require some additional pieces of stock (for the crankshaft and the flywheels) and do not have the spare funds available for their purchase. In the meantime, I'll keep scavenging and making the parts that I can from my stash. So far, so good. *I think* ???

BC1
Jim


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## rudydubya (Apr 29, 2010)

Beautiful work Jim. And my compliments also on the excellent documentary photos throughout your build.

Regards,
Rudy


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## Deanofid (Apr 29, 2010)

That bit came out nice, Jim. Small parts like that often have a lot of setups to make what appears to be a simple thing. Looks good.



> And no Dean, you may not have my hammer,


Well, then you're almost as mean as Zee. You won't give me the little hammer, and he wants to give me his tutu.
harumph.

; )

Keep 'em coming!

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Apr 30, 2010)

Rudy and Dean, thank you for checking in and for your words of support. It seems to me at times that I am posting up photos that to some have them scratching their heads and wondering "why didn't he just ............". I have had to fight that mindset and focus upon the tasks at hand with the idea that hopefully some of these images will provide a spark of hope in a newcomer or a "lurker" (you all know who you are 8)) that may be having doubts about doing something due to it either seeming out of reach for them or the machines that they may or may not have at their disposal. I personally enjoy seeing the holding setups that others use in their builds, almost as much as seeing the finished pieces. Those images allow me to see things differently or in ways that I had not yet dreamed up. Lord knows I certainly do not have some of the tools that I do know how to operate and have struggled at times to make do, even resorting to using pieces of scrap oak or maple cobbled together as a holding fixture or faceplate in lieu of the real deal or not wishing to sacrifice a perfectly good piece of metal plate in a procedure that perhaps could wind up being a failure anyway. So, thank you :bow: for allowing me to visually display my journey in a step-by-step format, and for taking the time to peruse through them. 

Oh, and Dean, maybe you should take Zeep's tutu,(if it fits :big then maybe we could do a trade for that hammer  .......... NOT! ;D


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## 4156df (Apr 30, 2010)

Jim,
Thank you for putting those thoughts about the why of posting detail pictures into writing. I agree completely and have had the same doubts/thoughts about posting some of my photos. You've nailed the reason why exactly. Please keep posting just as you have.
Dennis

P.S. Enjoying the build.


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## Deanofid (Apr 30, 2010)

Jim, I'm with Dennis, and in the same boat as you fellows. I put in quite a few setup photos on my threads knowing that the people working at, and certainly those above, my level may skip over them as old hat. 

We didn't always know what we know, (however much that may be), and there is always someone who may benefit from seeing all the things we take for granted. Setups take time, and can be a large part of the job. If we want more people in the hobby, we need to show how it's done.

Dean


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## tombstone (Apr 30, 2010)

Bearcar 1 Your right you cant beat using scraps for fixtures this is a milling fix I made to the mill slot in end cap shown, plunge cutter in, move top of fix forward, cutter out, job done it was made from scrap mdf off cuts, a piece of 3x 4 floor joist and ally angle plate it has made about 500 parts so far & cost nothing.The only problem I have with wood is trying to gas weld it.


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## Troutsqueezer (Apr 30, 2010)

Rest assured Monsieur Bearcar1 that even though some of us haven't chimed in yet on your build that we are paying close attention. I've been capturing a number of images and text from this thread and I have downloaded the plans as well. Hit and Miss engines are in my future. 

Question for you: Were there any parts you've made so far or ones that you haven't made that a HF mini mill and 7X10 mini lathe may not handle? Someday I plan on upgrading my lathe but I'm not sure when that will take place. Perhaps when I see the right thing pop up on Craigslist. Your equipment seems pretty robust. 

-Trout


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## bearcar1 (Apr 30, 2010)

You are most welcome Dennis, it is and has been my pleasure. There are so many different levels of skill here at HMEM, not to mention the machines and tooling availability disparities. When I see some of the absolutely gorgeous engines that have been produced here it becomes a bit overwhelming and I begin to feel like, "gee, this really isn't up to that high of a caliber standard" and I'm sure others have felt the same way so it becomes more difficult, perhaps almost embarrassing to some to share their projects here, thinking that it would be looked at as crude or un-interesting. I want to see them all, I enjoy seeing how some fellows do work arounds to deal with a particular problem, not mention the final results of that builders efforts.

 Dean, you are so correct. We all need to share our experiences, both successes as well as failures and detail how or why such projects or particular steps wound up that way. 

 T.S, the secret to your gas welding issue is you have to have the parts really clean ;D.           

And finally, Trout', I am not familiar with the HF machines you are speaking of but as of this moment, I am using a Sherline mill until I can make moving arrangements to relocate my round ram BP to the shop and a South Bend lathe. The lathe is robust as you say as it will swing 10" over the bed. This particular engine I believe could be built on the machines you speak of but may be approaching the machines limits, i don't know for sure. The two largest pieces on this model are the flywheels at 3.500" diameter which I have not gotten to yet and the cylinder/coolant tank that you have had a glimpse of already. It measures 1.500" x 2.500" x 2.280". Having said that, the cylinder block would most likely be the biggest challenge using those machines but maybe not, as has been said here many times prior, there is usually "more than one way to skin a cat"

** disclaimer **
no harm was done to any animals during this post ;D

now then, Dean, have you and Zee come to some sort of trade agreement yet? :big:

BC1
Jim


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## Maryak (Apr 30, 2010)

Jim, Dean and Dennis,

Your pictures and reasons for posting are IMHO absolutely what this forum is about. Thank you. :bow: :bow: :bow: In my own case I have found that making a build log encourages me to do better. (Just think of the extra stuff ups without it : : :)

Best Regards
Bob


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## bearcar1 (May 2, 2010)

Thank you all :bow:, I am glad (and relieved ) in knowing this is not a waste of everyones time and that as I said earlier, hopefully others will also gain some insight into different methods of accomplishing a task without some expensive tooling. Now, onward ... stickpoke
There is an insulator that is required in the ignition points setup that looked : simple enough so I decided to work on that to pass a few hours. The drawings do not specify what material to use so I settled upon a piece of what I believe to be polycarbonate, possibly Lexan, I don't really know for certain but it didn't machine too badly. I think that using a two flute cutter would have been better instead of the four flute I used but I slowed the spindle down and took shallow cuts and got 'acceptable' results. :shrug: I have a confession to make though, this part took me three attempts to get it right after missing the dimensions on the first attempt ???, and then by stuffing up the drilling on the second th_wtf1, and just like Goldy Locks the third was 'just right' Thm: (yeah right, what does that broad know about it anyway). 






The worst thing about this material, whatever it is, was keeping the heat build up down or the material would start to deform :toilet:, especially when drilling. I initially tried to drill the part overhanging the side of the vise as shown above but due to the quite thin wall thickness and the friction from the bit it did not work out so well and I realized that I need to provide a means to reduce the localized heat build up. Without resorting to flooding the piece with coolant as would probably have been optimal, I set up the piece inside the vise jaws using a piece of aluminum stock on either side to act as a heat sink and to provide some better support to the thin sides. This worked a treat and the final results are shown below. I wish that I had a piece of Lucite for certain as I would like to have a part that I could vapor polish to a crystal clear condition but I'll settle for the frosty the snowman look for now.











BC1
Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (May 2, 2010)

I'm still watching and enjoying the thread Jim.
I appreciate the detail and the tips and techniques...as well as any missteps you want to mention...I learn from them too.

P.S. There is no trade agreement between Dean and I. Negotiations are currently stalled. If they should start again, I'm sure we'll spare everyone's thread with the tawdry particulars and trash our own (read that as Dean's) threads. ;D


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## arnoldb (May 4, 2010)

Jim, to quote Carl : 





> I'm still watching and enjoying the thread Jim.


 - very good going indeed, and extremely informative :bow:

I fully agree with Yourself, Dean, Dennis and Bob regarding posting and the reasons for it ;D
To add something - I don't see the different methods used for machining, differing levels of tooling availability, and the "skinning of cats" to get around problems as a disadvantage; in fact I consider it to be a catalyst for thought - I've had a lot of "Duh" moments from seeing people do something on the forum - even if I needed to adapt those methods/ideas a bit to suit my shop environment. My own skills are still pretty low compared to most of the builds on the forum - but that's OK - by sharing my builds thus far, I've had a lot of very valuable tips passed back to me, and to others in the process. The best thing of this forum is that newcomers to the hobby don't get treated like ess-eightch-eye-tee, but are supported and helped, no matter how trivial their problems.

Kind regards, Arnold

(I got very lucky; I replied with the above yesterday evening, and it was one of the posts that went "missing". Usually I copy my posting to the clipboard before posting to prevent having to re-type in the event of a "glitch" - and while doing some work earlier today I "miss copied" some text, and when I pasted in my working document, this popped up ;D)


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## bearcar1 (May 6, 2010)

Thanks everyone for their understanding and support, it does mean a great deal to know that ones efforts are not going to waste. Arnold, I'm also so very glad that you have been tagging along on this adventure, as I said a while ago, your help is greatly appreciated. (he graciously offered up his assistance in hosting the photos for this series on his engineering site) :bow: Thank you.

I've been rather lax in the past few days and finally got motivated enough to set about on another part for The Geneva. With that fiddley and rather onery bit of an insulator piece finished it was time to turn my attention back to real metal again and brass was the material of choice again. The rocker arm pedestal seemed to easy enough, drill a couple of holes, do some simple profiling, yeah that would seem to be a good cure for a case of doubt and uncertainty. (you know, the feeling you get sometimes when not really sure in what direction to proceed or in my case, over analyzing the upcoming pieces to be built and the feeling of anxiety over the possibility of a major failure or screw-up) 

To begin I used a short piece of square brass that was of the proper size and used the layout dye on its face, followed up by marking out the cut-to lines and finally locating and center popping the hole to be drilled in order to obtain the rounded bottom in the fork area of the piece. OK, that was easy enough, and so was the milling of the sides, using a .125" cutter once again as shown below.






Out of the mill and after drilling the above mentioned hole it was onto its side and some more layout was in store, this time to locate the hole for the rocker pivot. This was drilled and reamed to insure a round hole for the future pin.






Back into the mill and the center of the fork was milled out, this time cutting the sides down until the cutter *just* did clean up enough material to meet up with the sides of the large hole I had previously drilled to form the bottom. One could use the end mill cutter itself to do this step I suppose but I prefer to do it this way as I find it easier to remove the excess metal in small cuts as opposed to hogging the entire full width cut in small steps. (make sense?) In keeping with my "can't leave well enough alone" style, I wanted to make a radius at the base of the fork rather than the stark right angle the drawings were showing, this was also true in regards to that first hole that was drilled in the part's face. Once again not having the *proper* tool for this job (a small ball end mill cutter) I decided on trying this round diamond burr and found success in doing so. I just had to go slow and take smaller than usual cuts to depth. 











"OK", I said to myself being rather smug in the notion that all was well, but NoOOoo!  It was only when I went to drill the mounting holes in the foot that I discovered, *ahem* that when I changed the diameter of the cylinder head bolt circle, it moved them closer together and now if I drilled the holes in the piece I was working on to that dimension, I would not be able to get a nut on the studs let alone be able to tighten it down. SH*T! :fan: You dumb sack of rocks, Now what? ??? Hmmm......
What if I cut a "waist" into the bottom portion of the foot, THAT would allow me to drill the holes and have them line up as well as give clearance for the hold down nuts and that is what I did. 
***NOTE TO SELF: Stop trying to re-invent the wheel and leave well enough alone. (yeah right, like that's ever gonna happen)






Also by incorporating this one deviation from the drawings, not only did I alter the spacing of the hold down holes, it also moved the pivot closer to the center of the head, meaning it also changed the ratio of the rocker arm itself. I am able to mount up the pivot pedestal 'backwards' and get the spacing back to where it should be due to its built-in offset but this just goes to show that one small, innocent and seemingly inconsequential change can lead to some major fubars (don't ask) in the overall layout of a project. Kind of like a domino effect, you alter one and it alters the one next to it and the cycle continues on etc. But, for the time being, "so far, so good, kinda" ;D


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## Deanofid (May 6, 2010)

_"so far, so good, kinda"_

Yeah, I guess, Jim. I'm just missing the "kinda" part. That piece sure looks nicely shaped, and if it will do its job, you have it knocked.
Nice work on that!

Dean


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## bearcar1 (May 6, 2010)

Hi Dean, perhaps I should have re-phrased that to read "... I *think*". Meaning that even though I dodged a bullet this time around, what else is there that I can get myself into on this adventure. Of course you are correct in that the part was able to be made modified to work and still keep its overall appearance I just get weak in the knees when faced with unforeseen challenges at times. 

"So far, so good" There, I said it out loud and you know what? I DO feel better. YallyHO!! Thnx.

BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (May 14, 2010)

Go get yourself a cup of tea or one of your favorite cold 'soft drinks'  because this one is going to take some time. All of the steam engines I have made to date have always utilized a length of stainless steel rod for the piston/conrod or the piece has been a casting requiring one to either turn up some threads on the end or drill a set of holes for the later. Now, here, staring me in the face and laughing at me was a billet connecting rod that was in the shape of the ones you would see inside a automobile engine :-[. Egads! Well, with much trepidation and hand wringing (did I mention procrastination before ???) I began the journey, relying on much of what I have witnessed here on HMEM as a guiding light (Mom? is that really you??!!... No, ..*BELCH* it's just me, your imagination speaking to you, now continue) to fall back upon in my attempts to conquer this first time IC project. (whew, I'm glad of that but you really could use some Tic Tacs :big

To start off with, I flycut a couple of short lengths of aluminum bar that were a bit long, down to the necessary thickness. On the ends I did the usual layout and center pop of three locations. Two would become the holes for the clamping studs and the third was on the exact center of the piece and would be used to indicate the piece later on. The next step was to drill, counter drill and finally tap what would become the 'big end'.






This was easy enough until I realized in a brain fart that I had not counter drilled the first hole and had to go back and re-center the piece. I used the small ball end wiggler point to do this and after drilling, life was good once more.






Shown below is that central location I mentioned earlier being used to get the piece centered in the four jaw chuck in preparation for turning the outside diameter of the big end. These steps were all done prior to the end piece being sawn off.











After liberating the small, cap piece from the main bar both faces of the saw cut were faced and joined back together with 5-40 bolts for the remainder of the machining work. 

This rather crude looking device (get yourself accustomed to them) is not an instrument of torture from the 16th century, although I suppose that if one were to close ones eyes and drift back to that period of time in France......... *AHEM*  Oh, sorry. Now where was I, oh yes. What I reworked was a holding fixture from another build, it consisted of an aluminum disc that was screwed to the back of a piece of Oak with two rails spaced so that the conrod blank would just fit between them and then a set of holes drilled and tapped to receive clamping screws. I've said before, I don't have DRO in the shop, nor a large enough faceplate but brother, believe you me, when this is all over and I survive, I'm definitely going to have them as well as a rotary table!! *club* The prepared blank gets clamped into position and the whole thing is centered using the DI and wiggler routine and then the openings in each end of the conrod are drilled and then reamed to there specified sizes.











From here on, every step is a "mirror" image, that is what gets done to one side of the piece is duplicated on the reverse. I again went to the drawer of past used fixtures and found that with some minor modifications I could use this one to cut down the cheeks of the big end. The clamping button was made to the desired diameter so it was an easy task of advancing the cutter until it just nipped this piece and then using the micrometer stop, set the depth of cut, and after flipping the piece over on the jig and using the same dial settings, voila!, perfect symmetry at its finest.











Now just when you thought it couldn't get any crazier Rof}, I have one more for you, and then I promise that I'll stop. (no really :) This jig is very similar to the previous one, but seeing as how I was going to be reducing the thickness of the rod some more, I did not want to chance it flexing and decided to go with a more conventional looking faceplate arrangement to 'neck down' the small end. Also, in keeping with my previous track record of not staying to plan convention, I used a cutter ground with a radius rather that a squarish looking section. 











Once the edge-on profiles were to my satisfaction, I turned to the more conventional methods as seen here to shape the sides. The drawings do not call out any dimensions for the taper so I had to do some "cut and eyeball, adjust, and repeat" in order to achieve a pleasing line. I wound up using 3* but I think I would like to go down to 2.5* or even 2* if ever I pass this way again. To hold the blank I first set the vice at an angle to the table using a protractor and clamped a short sacrificial bar in its jaws. I had previously marked out, drilled and tapped holes to correspond with the center-to-center spacing of the conrod blank on the centerline of this plate. The hold down buttons were turned to the target sizes and brushed with layout dye. When the cutter advanced far enough on the final cut to just graze the Blue, that was far enough.











Man, nobody ever said this was going to be easy!!! When the dust all had settled and I was able to collect my thoughts again, I found that I did not like the rather square looking big end and set about to make it appear more scale-like. (are you beginning to see a pattern forming here? I do)
First it was to trim down the back side just a bit and then counterbore for the cap nuts.











 This of course was done after I made up some threaded studs to take the place of the cap screws. Then, using some filing buttons to round over the end I was at last done.
















 I want to cut a scallop into the sides of the rod but am going to wait a few days and catch my breath. There was a post up here a few weeks ago about that very thing so I will attempt to search for it. And I have to press a bronze bushing into the small end. That is not really necessary according to the plans but I want to put one in anyway. Whew! Thats all for now, so far, so good. Thanks for looking.

BC1
Jim


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## Maryak (May 14, 2010)

Jim,

Very very nice conrod and some very useful setups. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Deanofid (May 14, 2010)

That there is some nice lookin' con-rod, Mr. Jim. Properly sized nuts, and everything. 
Beautifully done!

Dean


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## SAM in LA (May 14, 2010)

Jim,

What a great lesson.

Thanks for sharing.

SAM


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## bearcar1 (May 16, 2010)

Bob, Dean, and Sam, I thank you. That was one Hell of a learning experience. I did manage to get the small end bushing made up and pressed in, so now the piece is officially finished. :bow:

I'm not sure at this point what to do next as I am running out of materials on hand and until my friend with the rotary table returns from his business in the UK I'm getting rather limited in my progress.  Looking forward though, does anyone have any suggestions where I might find some small strips of Beryllium copper or spring steel, say .250" wide and 3.000" to 4.000" in length. I'll require these for the mechanical points system. Thank you all.

BC1
Jim


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## GailInNM (May 16, 2010)

Jim,
I have BeCu that is 1.2 inches wide and 0.007 thick. It is in mill finish hardness so it can be easily cut and formed, but will need to be heat treated to bring it to spring temper. Heat treatment ranges from 550 degrees F for about 2 or 3 hours, 600 deg F for about an hour or 700 deg F for 30 minutes. Many domestic ovens will reach 550 Deg F so it's not too bad if you don't have a heat treat oven. 

I also have steel feeler gage stock in 1/2 in width in most thickness up to 0.013. It is in rolls so I can shear some off. It works well for springs but is hard to machine.

PM me your address if any of this will help and I will drop some in the mail. 

Gail in NM


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## bearcar1 (May 16, 2010)

Gail, you are truly a gentleman and a scholar for your gracious offer. I thank you, unfortunately I am looking for something just a bit thicker, in the .020" range. You have given me an idea though, perhaps I could use a blade from one of those cheapo feeler gauge sets. BTW, where did you find that piece BeCu anyway? I've looked briefly and the only thing I could come up with was some industrial place in India. 

BC1
Jim


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## GailInNM (May 16, 2010)

Jim,
If you are ordering anything else from Enco so you get above their $25 free shipping minimum, they have individual leaves 1/2 inch wide X 12 inch long for about $1.20 in that size range.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=404&PARTPG=INLMK32

On the BeCu, in a previous life I needed some BeCu springs of a complex shape. About 10K of them. They were about 1/4 x 3/8 in flat form. Made a stamping die and a forming die and stamped them out. Then heat treated them. My local industrial supplier was able to get me the BeCu but the minimum order was more than I needed so I still have about 100 feet of the 0.007 thick x 1.2 inch wide. Since I only use about 2 inches a year I figure there will still be about 98 feet on the roll when I die so I try to give some away if anyone needs it. 

Gail in NM


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## bearcar1 (May 16, 2010)

That's exactly what I was thinking about Gail. That will probably be a whole heck of a lot easier than trying to find the BeCu in small-ish quantities. Those Hall effect sensors are looking better all of the time. 

BC1
Jim


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## arnoldb (May 16, 2010)

Jim I've been following up ;D


> 'soft drinks'


 - that's red wine right  :big:

Seriously though, Great Job :bow: - lots of tips in there - thank you 

Kind regards, Arnold


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## doc1955 (May 16, 2010)

Very nice! :bow:
Really nice looking connecting rod!


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## bearcar1 (May 16, 2010)

Hello Arnold, glad to know that you are keeping an eye on me ;D and yes, red wine. Of course white will also do in a bind, but after that it is what's in the cleaning products cabinet. Rof}

Thanks Doc', I'm glad that's over with. Been tinkering with the cam blanks and using what appears to be a rather neat set up for turning the part up on the lathe. Time will tell.



BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (May 22, 2010)

Things have been quiet here for several days but I did manage to get some practice in turning single lobe cams on the lathe. 8) I started out by turning these three 'blanks'. Nothing fancy here, just some rather tough steel bar that I had in the drawer sized accordingly and parted off. 







Then I proceeded to make up a simple jig that was nothing more than another piece of steel round that I had been using as a simple mandrel type fixture except I used the opposite end for this one. A hole was located, drilled and tapped 1/4-28, off center and a socket head cap screw was used to hold the blank(s) at the correct distance from the center axis of the lathe. 






An application of layout dye helps tremendously in witnessing the arcs as they are being progressively cut. After mounting up the prepared blank, the cross slide was advanced to take small cuts until the blank measured .538" across the now 'small' diameter. Once this measurement was reached the compound was not touched again until the cam had been completely turned. Here, one can see what that initial cut appears like.






Then, the blank gets rotated about 3* and another cut was taken. I tried turning the blank CCW or into the cutter as well as CW or away from the cutter and found that by incrementing the blank CW, that it seemed to leave less prominent apexes that required filing down when finished but I am sure this was just a fluke on my part. In theory, the fewer degrees the blank is rotated each time the 'rounder' the final piece will be due to these overlaps becoming closer together. Anyway, this is what the part looks like after the second pass.






And then again after about the third or fourth pass. (I lost count ;D)






Here, I'm closing in on the final cut as the blue surface area is getting narrower with each series of cuts. My target width is .050" left uncut. When I was satisfied with everything, I used a small, 'dull' file to smooth out any of those apex ridges I was mentioning and lightly brushed the face with emery cloth to further smooth out the running surface of the cam. 






These cams still require that a large flat be milled at an angle to assure that the ignition points fire off at the proper time (approximately 1* ATDC according to the drawings) but I am going to wait to do that until after I am further along in the build. The cam also gets a .031" hole drilled axially through the hub to facilitate a small pin that will ultimately be used to secure the cam to the large gear. Looking ahead, that should prove to be a real PIA as there is no way to hold the two parts together before the final coup d' gras as it were. scratch.gif :shrug:






This was the first time I had ever used this method of making a cam and found it to be relatively pain free and am hoping that I can utilize this experience gained in other future projects. I'm certain that there are formulas or programs out there that will/would calculate the required co-ordinates for making the holding fxtures to turn out specified profiles as the need arose.

So far..... so good. 

BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (May 23, 2010)

That's a neat way to make the cams, Jim, and you explained it well.
Just wondering, why three cams? One for points, one for exhaust, one for?

For drilling the hole to pin it to the gear, maybe use a shaft through them, hold them secure with 
blue Loctite, drill, then warm them up to release the glue. The blue kind gets soft at pretty low temp,
and releases easily.

You made good progress!

Dean


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## bearcar1 (May 23, 2010)

Good morning Dean, I apologize to you and anyone else for the confusion of having cut three cams in this illustration. The engine itself only requires one cam to run, but the blanks themselves were such a simple turning job and I had a lot of time on my hands, so I figured that as long as I was "in the mood" it would be to my advantage to make multiples "just in case" : You know what I'm talkin' about.  I had never made a cam using this method before and did not really know what to expect along the trail either, hence the extra insurance of having back-ups seemed like the prudent thing to do. ;D Thanks for the tips on holding the gear and the cam together, I had it in the back of my feeble little mind to use a drop of cyanoacrylate adhesive (basically the same thing). The trouble I envision is getting the timing set accurately before hand and the two pieces marked as such, before having to drill several holes in an attempt to preserve the settings. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it and am not going to worry a great deal about it at this time but it still is yet another one of those nagging problems that seem to accumulate during a trial period such as this build has been. Hey, thanks for staying tuned, at least I do not have to fret over not having company on this adventure :bow:


BC1
Jim


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## arnoldb (May 23, 2010)

Jim, I agree with Dean - that is a dandy way to make the cams :bow:

And don't fret; you have lots of company albeit sometimes a bit quiet ;D

Kind regards, Arnold


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## Deanofid (May 23, 2010)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> make multiples "just in case" : You know what I'm talkin' about.
> BC1
> Jim



Yeaaah buddy. I know!
Good foresight. Bill is on the same boat, making extras when he did his rings for his B&S engine.
I have a cookie tin full of those "just in case" extras. They're my "warm 'n fuzzy" spares.

I think you're on the right road with using some kind of adhesive for drilling those things.

Dean


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## bearcar1 (May 24, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Yeaaah buddy. I know!
> I have a cookie tin full of those........... They're my "warm 'n fuzzy" spares.
> 
> I think you're on the right road with using some kind of adhesive for drilling those things.
> ...



Dean, when you speak of them in those terms it makes them sound like something that has been left in the icebox for one too many dances :big: :big: :fan: YUM! 

BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Jun 10, 2010)

It has been a while since any updates have been posted and I apologize for that to one and all, however, having finally been able to take a short call for real work out of the hall, I do not feel too bad about it. All good things come to an end and I am once again 'idle' in my days so I figured I had better get something done and show it lest you fellows begin to think that I do not love you anymore : I wanted to do something that was relatively simple (yeah right, like ANYTHING is simple) and was torn between the regulator weights or the muffler and decided at the last minute on the later of the two. D. Kerzel's drawings show something similar to my end result but my "can't leave well enough alone" disease flared up again and it was off to the races. Beginning with a short piece of .750" brass round I faced both ends and drilled and reamed a .250" hole through the center. Moving the piece to the mill, I incorporated a cheap and dirty method of centering the part by using a short length of .250" rod in the spindle and merely clamped the vise to the table when the rod, being held in the spindle, was inserted in the central hole. The "X" axis was locked and I proceeded to mill a .187" slot to the required depth, after which I repeated the same steps, only this time locking down the "Y" axis and milled another slot creating a perfect cross. Next, I centered the piece once more but this time I used a protractor head set to 45* along the side of the vise and clamped it down. Keeping the "Y" axis locked, another slot was milled and the procedure repeated only this time with the vise clamped 45* in the opposite direction. (referenced from the table edge) When all of the dust had settled, this is what I wound up with.






I had considered cross drilling a series of through holes in the perimeter of the piece but opted instead to make this part in two pieces and am glad that I did for several reasons, the most important of which is the lack of a rotary table and I did not feel like fooling around with setting up the spin indexer, so cutting these slots that will ultimately end up being the final exhaust ports seemed the best route to go. Next up was the cover. Now I don't know about you, but I have always fancied those domed shaped mufflers on engines and I knew I had to attempt to replicate that look. Using .750" brass round I began to form the "friars hat" using a combination of files and a small cutter in the cross slide. The majority of this was done by eyeball and is really a matter of artistic appeal rather than any set dimensions and it took some time to get the desired results. Seen here after parting off I am cutting the inside of the dome with a ball nosed cutter.






Now I turned my attention back to the base piece and tack soldered a .250" piece of brass rod to it to be used as a mandrel in shaping the bottom portion. Again using files and the same cutter used for the top it was slow work sneaking up on a pleasing and symmetrical shape. What a PIA that was, "Do I take a little more off?" .... "How about a little flatter there" and so on and so forth. FINALLY, painfully, it was done, and I knew that I would still have to fine tune the whole thing once I had joined both pieces together.






Before I could proceed, I took a very fine square file and cleaned up any sharp corners and then very carefully tinned the tops of the "teeth" with soft solder. Putting this all aside for a few minutes, I was able to locate a small block of hard maple and after chucking it the lathe, I proceeded to bore and counter bore a hole that would *just* allow the muffler pieces to enter. This was a locating and holding fixture for when I sweat soldered the two parts together. One final once over with a file, I liberally fluxed the top, inserted into my jig, followed by the bottom and applied sufficient heat until I was satisfied the solder had melted and then allowed the part to cool down. I found that apparently the heating action swelled the wood slightly and I had one Hell of a time removing the piece and wound up using a wood chisel to split the block in order to free my prize. Once more onto a temporary mandrel and after some diligent file work, this is what I wound up with. Whew! 
So far, so good. 






BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (Jun 10, 2010)

That sure came out nice, Jim! I like the kind of 'top hat' look it has. 
Very retro cool.

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Jun 11, 2010)

Thanks Dean, you know, I am *STILL* futzing with the shape of the bottom on that thing. Trying to get a match of the top isn't as easy at it may seem. I'll get it sooner or later but jeez louise, what a fiddly thing this is turning out to be. Not sure exactly what part I'll be attempting next but it's getting to the point where there aren't a whole lot of choices and my metal drawer is looking pretty bare. :'( Maybe I'll have to take up dumpster diving for some extra spending money :big:

BC1
Jim


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## 4156df (Jun 11, 2010)

Jim,
Very nicely done. Thanks for showing the detailed "how". I've got to admit it took me until the last picture to figure out what exactly you were making.
Dennis


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## bearcar1 (Jun 11, 2010)

LoL! :big: I'm sorry Dennis, I guess I'll have to work on my story telling skills some more. After going back and re-reading that last blurb, I can appreciate one getting lost until the very end and I was the one that wrote it. But hey, that's how modern suspense thrillers (or comic books) are written now. ;D I promise I'll try and do better the next time. :bow:

BC1
Jim


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## Maryak (Jun 11, 2010)

Nice muffler Jim, :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## bearcar1 (Jun 12, 2010)

Good morning Bob and thank you. I *may* make an attempt at fabricating up another only this time drilling radial holes round the central rim instead of milling the slots. Then again, those holes would be pretty small and my eyes aren't what they used to be  ya' know :big:

BC1
Jim


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## 4156df (Jun 12, 2010)

Jim,
I wasn't complaining...I like the suspense! Besides, my ability to comprehend doesn't reflect on your ability to write. ;D Personally, I think the slots look great. I think the prototypes were built similarly.
Dennis


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## bearcar1 (Jun 12, 2010)

Oh I understand perfectly Denny, ;D Sometimes I get to thinking and typing at the same time and in the end the writing isn't what I was meaning but it was what I was thinking at the time. There. You see? That's what I was thinking.... oh Lord, please help me!!! :big:

Glad you understand and are staying along for the ride, I like the company.

BC1
Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 12, 2010)

I'm really enjoying your thread. Partly because of your approach towards machining. I should be more like that.


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## joe d (Jun 12, 2010)

Jim

another vote for the slots as opposed to holes. Just my taste, so of course, you are entirely at liberty to do what you want! (Nice of me, eh?). Been enjoying following along.

Joe


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## bearcar1 (Jun 13, 2010)

Zee' - Glad to know that you are enjoying the ride along and don't you go 'a-changin' on my account, we all like you just the way you are, and yes, we will still be coming to visit you on Tuesdays.   :big: :big:


Joe - Thanks for that, after further review, (and my own laziness) I have put aside the notion of making the part again using holes for the ports. Some other time perhaps but I have too far to go on this project yet to be wasting time on such things when this piece will work just fine.


Now then, what shall I do today scratch.gif :shrug:

BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Jun 22, 2010)

...... Well, how about the regulator ring. This is the piece that attaches to the inside hub of one of the flywheels and that the governor flyweights pivot on. Of course this piece gets added to the ever growing pile of pieces that are not getting finished due to the lack of tooling (rotary table) but it's at least some progress. It started life as a short section of round Ali I had left over from the preliminary cylinder head work and it gets sized to initial final diameter and then gets a hole bored to fit the hub of the as yet machined flywheel. I left this hole just a bit on the undersize about .010" so that I could, at a later date, when I do finally get to making the flywheels, use an adjustable reamer to bring it to a perfect sliding fit of that particular hub. Kind of like fitting a piston to a cylinder bore but in reverse. At one time on my "Smitty" build, I ground a lathe cutter that had a long-ish neck and a short, narrow, cutting point on it, so I used that instead of a standard boring bar. This setup I have used on other shallow holes as it has proven to be quite rigid and to me is a lot easier to get situated in the tool holder.







After that hole is finished, another one is counter bored out to a larger diameter. The size of this hole determines the width of the 'ears' that will be machined to accommodate the flyweights. At first, I had a minor problem getting my head wrapped around the visual picture of what was going to happen next, but, after it rolled around in my bean for a couple of days, I had it straight and proceeded. The small hole through drilled in the center of the piece will be used to secure the part to the rotary table, whenever I finally am able to acquire the usage of, or purchase one. (Lord only knows when that will be)






At first, I had planned on using filing buttons to do the round over of the ears when I was finished, but after those few days of armchair machining realized that I could do that work now, and save myself some time/aggravation down the road. What I did was to grind the body of a broken thread tap I had tossed in the drawer to what eyeballed out to be a pleasing radius and set it up in the toolholder. Now I thought, "how can I get these corners to look the same without a lot of hub-bub and toodoo?" The answer was simple. By powering the spindle in reverse, the outside diameter could be formed, a carriage stop set to limit the movement of the same was adjusted and then finally, powering the spindle in the forward direction the inside curvature was cut by merely retreating the cross slide after the carriage was firm against its previously set stop. Voila! The use of layout dye assisted greatly in the visualization of these cuts and gave an indication of how deep the cuts were based upon the width of the cut as it appeared in the metal. 






From here on, things get a bit unusual as far as machining practices go but they are safe and have proven to be accurate for me so please don't laugh or snicker. Rof} Another question in the back of my brain was how am I easily going to accomplish any sense of symmetry of the ears as I have always had bad results :fan: in doing so on other projects and was dreading having to once again jump on that live hand grenade. Some head scratching was done scratch.gif but I finally came up with a solution to my problem :noidea: that I thought would work and set about testing my, as yet proven, notions. I knew that if I could guarantee perfect squareness across the centerline of the piece that I would more than likely have a much higher rate of success. I accomplished this by first laying up, drilling, and tapping, an 8-32 hole in the very center of a .375" wide section of Ali bar and bolted that to the blank through that central hole. With this done, that bar was held in the mill vise and a square was cut into the tare portion (the part that eventually gets cut off) of the blank. 






I took pains to make certain this square section was as exact as it could be (I was within .001") but think now that accuracy was not truly necessary as all I really required was to have 90* reference faces from which to work, but hey, this far into a long shot requires all of the mental stability one can possibly muster, so it had a reassuring effect. Next up was to turn the part over and grip it by the newly formed square with the original holding bar still attached and undisturbed. It just so happens that the ears are .375" in final width, another reason I chose that size of bar in the first place, so all I had to do was remove metal from either side of the blank until the cutter *just* made contact with the bar and down to the final depth. Some prudent measuring from the outside diameter to the flat as smack dead on the money so I knew that so far all was symmetric. Man, this is easy! (yeah right! there's a long way to go there, skippy, so don't get yourself too excited just yet I kept saying to myself) 






OK, so now I had the ears cut to outside dimension, there still remained the task of cutting a set of slots the weight arms would need to fit into. Here is the big payoff time in spades for that square that I had previously cut on the tare portion. Using those flats and some parallel bars, I could hold the part in a machinist vice and using my height gauge, scribe the outlines of the slots. Then it was back into the mill for the final coup d' gras. The slots were to be .1875" wide so I used an .125" cutter and very carefully made increasingly deeper initial cuts down to final depth, staying between the scribed lines. After which the slots were opened out to finish size by using a magnifier and cutting "to the line". Checking the width of the slots proved that I was once gain within .001" of my target. That and the fact that a .187" cutter blank would slide quite nicely in the slots when set across the face of the piece gave me the satisfaction that my hard work was worth it.





 This is where I am leaving off as at this point the next step is to bolt the ring to the rotab on the mill and reduce the outside diameter between the ears down to the final size of the witness mark I purposely left when I was initially forming the outside portion of the ears. This is a far as I have gotten. The arm's pivot holes still need to be drilled and again, that square section will be very effective in getting them accurately aligned with the slots. 






Thanks for looking.

BC1
Jim


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## ksouers (Jun 22, 2010)

That looks like an excellent solution, BC.

Too bad you had to lose 90% of that rounding job to the swarf monster, but the part looks great.


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## Deanofid (Jun 22, 2010)

That's looking mighty fine, Jim.  This post is full of good ideas and techniques.

Looking at your boring tool, I thought you must have been snitching tools from my shop! We make
those things almost exactly the same way. I suppose many of us do. I find they work really well.

You know, I'll bet you could whup up a simple rotab in a day of shop time at minimum cost. A somewhat 
heavy solid base, aluminum or steel, some kind of round disc for the table, and an Oilite bushing would 
just about do it. Bore the base to take the Oilite. Make a flange on a stub to fasten to the bottom of the 
table top and machine it and the top in one go to fit the Oilite. Some mounting holes drilled in the top of 
the table top, and a couple of locks to secure the table to the base when needed. You could use plastic
protractors for indexing and a tommy bar for turning the table.

I've seen something like that somewhere. It looked slick.

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Jun 22, 2010)

Thanks K', it does seem "?????" to see well over half of a given lump wind up on the shop floor in the form of shavings and chips now doesn't it. ;D

Dean, I promise to get that tool back to you as soon as I can, I was hoping you wouldn't miss it and I'd be able to hold onto it..... busted! I have considered making a down and dirty rotab of sorts. The type that employs a tommy bar for motion as you mentioned but I'm afraid what might happen if a piece got out of my control in using such a set up and wound up ruining something. I know the round over table you are speaking of and it does seem to be a really slick tool.

BC1
Jim


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## 4156df (Jun 22, 2010)

Jim,
That part is looking good. Thanks for posting. There are a couple of tips I can use.
Dennis


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## arnoldb (Jun 23, 2010)

Good going Jim 
I like your rounding over; now I'm slightly envious that I can't lock my lathe's screw-on chuck for machining in reverse :big:

Regards, Arnold


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## bearcar1 (Jun 23, 2010)

Thanks Arnold, I tell you what, I'll trade you the camlock backs on my chucks for your rotab ;D ;D course then I wouldn't have any way of using my lathe 

BC1
Jim


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## Maryak (Jun 23, 2010)

Jim,

Thanks for posting your regulator ring. :bow: :bow: Much food for thought when I get to that point with mine.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Deanofid (Jun 23, 2010)

Jim, here's a pic of that type of RT we're talking about, just to tease you on a bit. 







This one was made by a fellow who goes by ArtfulBodger, and it's featured on his webpage at
www.artfulbodger.net
Photo credit goes to him, too.

I have prints for this one from Lautard. We had a larger one in a job shop where I worked that we used
for simple spacing and radial slotting. Always up-mill/conventional mill, and all is well. I plan to make
a version of the George Thomas/Lautard type. I think would be very handy for lots of stuff, and faster 
to use than a geared rotab for most work.

Not meaning to bug you about it. I just like that ArtfulBodger guy's work and though you 
may like to see this.

Dean


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## bearcar1 (Jun 24, 2010)

Oh my yes. Beautiful work by that ArtfulBodger fellow indeed. Thanks for the link Dean (although it didn't make me feel any better about the lack of a rotab :rant :-\ My biggest fear :hDe: in using a device that incorporates tommy bars rather than a worm gear arrangement to rotate the platen is having the cutter snatch the part, thereby introducing a cutter gouge where it doesn't belong. Even using stops, I realize one HAS to always incorporate uphill cutting action th_rulze but I just don't think I'd be confident enough to 'freehand' something such as the chin or shoulder radius on my water hopper or doing the final shaping of the regulator ring with such a device. I dunno, some other time maybe, and after my confidence level grows a bit more. The seeds have been planted and I will continue to consider making one up, it certainly would be useful at this point.


Bob - Thanks for looking and it is a pleasure ;D knowing that folks are finding something new or different that could be of use to them someday. I know I always enjoy seeing the different setups or fixtures others use in their work, and the failures  as well. I use them as a guide in what to avoid and what has proven to be successful. 


BC1
Jim


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## arnoldb (Jun 26, 2010)

> I'll trade you the camlock backs on my chucks for your rotab


 Rof} Thanks Jim; I'll rather work around the "reversing" problem on the rare occasions it arises - You need to keep your lathe going ;D

Adding a worm and worm wheel to a setup like ArtfulBodger's for controlled cutting is just a small extra step if you are only wanting to use the tool for machining curves. And if you add a 60/72/90 tooth wheel; you've got a rotab; theres no real need to splash out like I did - I did it for the challenge as there are many things that I wanted to test out for future projects, like to see if I could make zero-able dials (my lathe needs that!) and so on.

Kind regards, Arnold


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## bearcar1 (Jun 28, 2010)

You are right Arnold, the shipping for either of us would be horrendous th_confused0052 to say the very least. Anyway, getting on with it, I did some what I term minor apprentice type work this past week. I elected to work on making the regulator bobbin and I have to admit it, it was just a bit of a whore :hDe: and it took me three attempts to finally get a finished product that was accceptable. Looking through my materials drawer I found the remains of some sort of lathe spindle adapter I had begun who knows how many aeons ago (long time) and figured that I most likely would never finish it as I had forgotten even what I had wanted to do in the first place with it ???. So I chucked the bar up in the three jaw and began what I thought was going to be an easy part to make. Remember a while ago when I said none of them are ever easy? Well that statement could not have been any more true than here. After turning the piece to the required finish diameter I thought "I'll just use my trusty parting tool to machine the grooves and I'll be done in no time". In a pigs...*ahem* ... eye. oh: I very carefully took the cutter tool over to the grinder and gave it a good facing, taking extra pains to get a nice flat, square face and used a stone to make nice little radii on the corners, not a lot, but enough to cut the sharp edges. Back it the lathe and after setting up I quickly found that no matter what I did I could not get the tool to cut worth a darn th_wtf1. I tried changing the center height, as well as grinding a different rake to the tip and no matter what I did it still would not cut decent. OK. Plan "B". I decided to grind a square tool bit to profile and do it that way. Well that was a bit better but not by much and just when I thought I was done with the first groove, the cutter snapped off . Jees, what a real pig this is turning out to be th_bs. TIME OUT!!! I decided to postpone this event until I could re-collect my wits and trudged upstairs having been defeated in this round. A few days later, I returned to the scene of the crime and removed that Hellish piece of bar from the chuck and banished it to the trash receptacle for eternity. Once again I sat over my materials drawer and lo and behold, there was this nice bright and shiny new piece of stainless steel that my friend had given to me peeking out from behind some lengths of brass. He said it had been in with some of his Father's stuff and he had been a machinist by trade, working on food processing machines. It was a bit larger in diameter than needed but that would be OK, I had a plan. Once again I ground a cutter blank into the desired shape and made the width of the 'blade' narrower than the groove I wanted to form. This was part of my plan. If this worked, I would part to depth and then move over incrementally until I hit my target width. EUREKA!! :bow:, this time the cutter groaned just a bit but stood its ground and in a few minutes I had my first groove cut.






Now to sneak up on my target width of .095". Dial calipers are OK for most things and even when measuring small slots or grooves I find them relatively accurate, however, this time it had to be spot on so I used a number drill bit shank as my guide. 






BINGO!! Right on the money! Yes Elizabeth there is a Santa Clause Thm:
Now, to move the carriage over and do it again. Oh, joy, we have to do it again? (you can probably tell I was not having a great deal of fun at that time) To do this I relied upon my micrometer stop that do so often use and merely dialed it over the required amount and locked it down. The second groove seemed to cut a but better than the first but who knows.






Using and old brown stuff turners trick I used a set of manual outside calipers to hit my target minor diameter. It works and the depth really isn't that critical as long as it isn't too deep. 






Again, using the micrometer stop settings and the number drill as a guide the second groove was finally arrived at. THAT was the hardest part in all of this, the remainder was all down hill from this point. Yipee!






After facing the exposed side down to size the piece was then center drilled, incrementally drilled to just under finish size and then finish reamered. After which I used a die makers burr my Dad had given to me years ago to break the sharp edges of the hole. 






It was now time for some 'character building', that is, the use of a hacksaw to liberate the part from the parent stock. Rof} (right Dean? ) With the piece now in my hand, I made up a quick and dirty collet by boring a short piece of Alie that I had in the scrap drawer. The 'tube' as it were, was a blind bottomed hole that allowed a place for the part to be seated against while final facing.






Finally the piece was finished. Hallelujah :bow: My first problems I encountered on the making of this piece early on was due to the material I was attempting to use was of unknown alloy. It was extremely gnarly and tough. I probably could have used it if I took the time to explore different spindle speed rated and all of that but to me, the piece wasn't worth that kind of effort, I wasted enough time doing what I did originally using that bar, whatever it was. I've never really turned much stainless but found that this alloy was quite a pleasure to work. It seemed to cut nicely albeit for a few harder spots but overall I think I would like to do some more work with it. 






I've been procrastinating making a couple of pieces and am quickly running out of excuses not to do them (governor weight arms and the regulator arm) both odd shaped pieces that call out for a .... you guessed it ... rotary table. Whew boy. Am I ever going to catch a break? NEVAH!!!! We'll see.
so far so good.

BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (Jun 28, 2010)

I always enjoy reading the trials and travails of Jim The Metal Turner. Good post!



> It was now time for some 'character building', that is, the use of a hacksaw to liberate the part from the parent stock. (right Dean?)



You got it, bud. Character! 



> both odd shaped pieces tht call out for a .... you guessed it ... rotary table



Rotary, schmotary.. I'll bet you end up getting it done whether you have one or not!
(Hope you get one, though. It's a fun thing.)

Thanks for the new update, Jim! You do a fun write-up. Not many of us can make one roundy 
round thing into an adventure in itself. 

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 28, 2010)

You're having too much fun Jim. Can you spare a little for us?

Aw come on. How about just a whiff?


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## bearcar1 (Jun 29, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Rotary, schmotary..... ???



Wasn't that a place where one went to get spun around and struck with a stick as punishment in biblical times? :big:

Glad your enjoying the ride there Dean, it's always good to know that the deranged rantings of a lunatic can provide such entertainment. And roundy type thingies are becoming a specialty of mine. 


Zee', just a whiff? C'mon now, you gotsta get in there and take a real good deep breath.  Having fun? I was until that rag-nasty piece of round bar decided to ruin a perfectly nice day. :rant:*%#@^& Anyways, it's all good now ;D

BC1
Jim


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## bearcar1 (Jul 11, 2010)

I've been lazy for a time now, that and I have been working on a B'day present for my sister. One of those animated automatons, you know, the wooden silhouette figures with joints that move when you turn a crank of activate a lever. Anyway, I got frustrated with the final, fiddly fitting and adjusting and decided to do some work on The Geneva. Nothing fancy this time around and you know what? It's a LONG  way back from Rotary Schmotary on foot Thm: Checking my material drawer, I found a short length of cast iron rod and I chucked that up in the 3-jaw. This piece I think I had used for a eccentric or something and it had an off center hole in the end I had facing out. I know I could have turned the piece around in the chuck but then I would be stuck with this goofy hole if/when I used the short drop so I used an .500' end mill cutter to get a 'clean' flat for the center drill to start in.






Before I began making the bore, the piece was turned to a very nice press fit for the cylinder/water hopper body. A very sparingly applied film of green Loctite when the time comes and we should be good to go, although I do not really believe it would be necessary as there is a small shoulder turned on the inboard end of the part that acts as a rim for the cylinder head to seat against. With this arrangement there is no way the sleeve could pass through the bore. 






Only after I had gotten almost done with this part did I remember I should have covered the bed ways etc. with paper to keep the ensuing swarf grit from finding a new home but ce' la vie. Anyway, after using the largest center drill I had I proceeded to drill to depth in ever increasing diameters up to .650" which is the largest drill I have that would fit in the tailstock. From there on the hole was opened out using a boring bar. Sneaking up on the final diameter took some time, .0005" cut at a time until I had hit the target exactly, of course I will need to hone the bore and will do so before I fit the piston but it was a fun excercise all the same. I then did the cutoff a bit on the long side and after reversing ends in the chuck, used the cutoff tool to bring the piece to final length. Man does CI get magnetic or what.






This is what the bore looks like now, I am in hopes I can get the surface a bit smoother using a small brake hone. I have one that was my Grandfather's that will close down to .650". A lot of oil and keeping the stones in motion should do the trick. 











So far so good.

BC1
Jim


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## Maryak (Jul 12, 2010)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> This is what the bore looks like now, I am in hopes I can get the surface a bit smoother using a small brake hone. I have one that was my Grandfather's that will close down to .650". A lot of oil and keeping the stones in motion should do the trick.



Jim,

You might find kerosene a better alternative to oil when honing, especially cast iron which tends to clog the hone at the best of times.

Hope this helps

Best Regards
Bob


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## bearcar1 (Jul 12, 2010)

Kerosene you say. Thanks Bob, I never heard that before, I'll definitely give that a go, thanks for that tip. Another tidbit to stash away in the old beaner. ;D

BC1
Jim


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## arnoldb (Jul 12, 2010)

Good going on the cylinder Jim.  ;D Machining CI is nice, but the cleaning afterwards can be a bit of a pain : 

Regards, Arnold


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## Deanofid (Jul 12, 2010)

Good looking job, Jim. I think the hone will work well. I used the same type for a gas engine
I have here. Has run well for many years.
Bob has the right idea for your honing lube. I used lamp oil, which I think is also kerosene.
I put it in a funnel with a thin tube attached to the small end and let it dribble through the bore all
the time I was honing. Obviously, an outdoors job!

Dean


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## Maryak (Jul 13, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Bob has the right idea for your honing lube. I used lamp oil, which I think is also kerosene.
> Dean



Thanks Dean, Lamp Oil is renamed 300 test kerosene which was the old standard fluid used in Hartridge test machines for diesel injectors and fuel pumps. Called Lamp Oil for sale mostly to churches for their lamps and also because being highly refined, it has a very low smoke point, (your lamp glass doesn't blacken up so quickly as with ordinary kero).

Best Regards
Bob


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