# taig tips/setup Speedy's ultimate help wanted thread.



## Speedy

I am looking forward to using my lathe, but I have to wait untill I go out and purchase some material and some bits.

so I thought I should take the time to set up the lathe and have some questions.

I am not sure if the previous owner lapped the carriage to the bed.
and I am trying to make sure everything is ready for its first cuts.

what is the proper way of adjusting the gibs on the carriage?
should you be able to push the carriage across the the bed by hand? (what makes a perfect gib adjustment)

also the backlash in the handles of the carriage and cross slide is this normal to have?

I did read taigs manual but it didn't talk much about this 

also if anyone has any general lathe advice for maintenance that would be great!
(any other substitute to the 10w oil taig says to oil everything with, maybe something better?)

thanks
Michael


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## pete

Speedy, Get the book that pertains to this lathe written by I believe Tony Jeffree, You can search on Tee Publishing's web sit for the correct title. It will answer probably all of your questions plus has some good accesories to build for that lathe. The book is well worth the money and you won't be disapointed.

Pete


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## kuhncw

Hi Michael,

Congratulations on the new Taig. I suspect you know this, but there is a huge amount of good Taig information out on Nick Carter's site.  http://www.cartertools.com/

Another good site is the Taig Owner's Club site: http://taigownersclub.forumotion.net/ and there is also a Taig group on Yahoo.

Backlash in the carriage and cross slide is normal on a lathe. I would also say you should be able to push the carriage along the bed with a gentle push. There should be no side to side motion. The Jeffree book mentioned in the previous post should be a great help as well.

Regards,

Chuck


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## zeeprogrammer

I don't know the Taig (I barely know my own machine).
Select the 'home' tab and then do a search on 'gibs'. Lots of info.

I had (and still do since I'm still very new to this) trouble figuring out how to adjust the gibs. I ended up taking the thing apart, polishing the gibs, and then re-assembling. Very glad I did. World of difference. I expect to do it again soon...partly because I'm sure I can do it better...partly for the experience and learning. (But I have a very small machine and it's pretty easy to do.)

I don't know what others will say...but it sure seems like every machine has its personality and isn't the same as the next even if it's the same type. That's part of the fun.

I can push the carriage back and forth (assuming the screw is not engaged.)


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## raggle

The best information on this is on Nick Carter's site

http://www.cartertools.com/

where you'll find an enormous lot of links to Taig users' mods worldwide.

The Yahoo group is also useful - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/taigtools/

If you have the milling slide it will reveal all the shake you may have in the carriage and cross slide when you take a flycut or mill.

An early check on tailstock alignment is advised. you'll need to turn a centre on a piece of stock in the chuck as Taig does not supply a headstock centre. Bringing the tailstock up to it and gently trapping a thin piece like a razor blade will reveal any side to side or vertical error. If the tailstock is low, shim it up. Headstock high, shim that. Side to side is obvious 

10W/30 is recommended lubricant.

Please post results here. I for one will be keen.

Ray


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## gmac

Michael;

There's a setup procedure described with photo's on Carter Tools website;

http://www.cartertools.com/setup.html

I've seen more specifics on gib setup - if I can locate them I'll post.

Here's one site with a number of "you-build" accessories for the Taig that may appeal to you;

http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/projects.html

Here's Tony Jeffree's website 

http://www.jeffree.co.uk/modelengineering.html

I spiraled into the Carter Tools website and wasn't seen for two weeks :big:. Be careful....  The Yahoo Group is quite active and the people very helpful. I still haven't really setup mine; I've been to distracted with re-learning machining and model IC engine designs!

Hope you enjoy the Taig as much as I do.

Cheers
Garry


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## Tin Falcon

Micheal:
  ways should be agusted for free easy movement without any side play. Sometimes this is a tough balance. 
A little backlash is normal and not a real problem on a manual lathe.
Way oil for ways. IIRC I usese mobile vacra No 2
For spindle Mobile velocolite 10
There are many brands some probly better than What I am using these are old stand buys I bought a gallon of each and will use them untilll i run out then may look for something better. 
Tin


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## Speedy

WOW I cant thank you all enough for all your help so far.

I just emailed the fellow I got the lathe off of, since he didn't use the metal setup he didnt lap it.
sooooooo I will be lapping it soon, bit nervous (might be the excitement!)

so I have to take it all apart (well just take the carriage,headstock,tailstock off)

Tin Falcon, on the taig you can oil the spindle?

Oboy I sense lots more questions when I begin! better to do it now and get it right


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## steamer

Zee,

Yes machines do have their own "personality's" and over time you learn how to "listen" to what they have to say....sometimes with your ears and sometimes with your hands and eyes.
....Ok no cracks about "Lathewispering"...... :big:

Dave


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## Tin Falcon

> Tin Falcon, on the taig you can oil the spindle?


That was a general statement to lathes may not apply to taig sorry for any confusion . You may only need way oil for small light machines. 



> I just emailed the fellow I got the lathe off of, since he didn't use the metal setup he didnt lap it.
> sooooooo I will be lapping it soon, bit nervous (might be the excitement!)


From what I see you just purchased a lightly used made in USA machine. Why do you want to lap the ways? does it really need it? you may be causing more problems than you are correcting by doing this. 
Tin


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## joe d

Tin Falcon  said:
			
		

> From what I see you just purchased a lightly used made in USA machine. Why do you want to lap the ways? does it really need it? you may be causing more problems than you are correcting by doing this.
> Tin



Tin:

The manufacturer's instructions included with a new Taig tell you to do this, using a home-made lapping compound of scouring powder and oil I followed these instructions with mine, and combined it with cleaning up the gibs on the carriage, and it is quite a bit smoother than it was out of the box.

Speedy:

One question: why take off the headstock? It presumably shouldn't be a moving part when the lathe is in operation....(I'm hoping that there isn't a good reason, as I didn't lap that part of the bed on mine... :

Joe


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## Tin Falcon

Joe I sit corrected then. By all means follow manufacturers recommendations. 
Tin


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## Speedy

hey all 
Joe d.
actually after looking at the lathe the headstock is not all the way at the end of the bed, about 7mm it can be pushed back.
maybe I will leave it (might throw off the motor alignment?)

also, when you mentioned cleaning the gibs, what did you do? because when lapping it would only do the face of the bed but leave the dovetails/gib untouched right?

also, can I use VIM and how much oil do I mix in.


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## joe d

Hi speedy

I aligned my headstock with the end of the ways so as to lose the least possible room on the working side. You could absorb 7mm pretty easily with adjusting placement of the pulleys. Also gives you a quick visual reference to see if anythings moved, ie see more or less of the ways and it's time for adjustment.

As to Vim, if I brought a jug of that into the shop SWMBO would swoon thinking that there was finally a "real" cleaning going on :big: :big:I've never tried it, don't know if it contains soaps or detergents that would adversely affect the oil. You can still get scouring powders at Dominion or Loblaws, look for "Old Dutch" or "Comet", the check-out girls will be big-time impressed with a young fella that keen on cleaning! If I was going to use Vim, I'd probably go with it straight out of the jug.

Cheers, Joe


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## Speedy

I will look at the headstock, seems that it may be worth it for the extra 7mm 

yes vim would have detergents in it, sliped my mind that oil and that wouldnt get along :big:

I have another question on the lapping, I was going to go and pick up some old dutch or comet but my parents use a cleaner from lagostina to clean their pots/pans my mom thinks it would be the same as comet or old dutch.

here is the link
http://www.lagostina.ca/eng/prodaccecleaner.html

I also checked out the bon ami that the author used in the taig article and online its says 2 products one for polish cleansing other for cleaning powder.
the lagostina would be a cleaning powder.

is their anything I should look for? I can post a picture of the lagostina powder


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## Tin Falcon

> I can post a picture of the lagostina powder


Micheal:
 you can embed an image link for illustration purposes. go to there web site right click on the photo. select "Copy Image Location"
then paste this to the post box. Select the link location by highlighting with the mouse . Then click on the IMG icon above the smiley faces, should be second row third from the left. The photo should then come up in your post
Tin


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## Speedy

hi Tin.
I just took my own, the one online didnt look to good.

















so I have another problem, how do I take of the pulley assembly on my motor? since I moved my headstock back 7mm the belt is not inline.
(I took the setscrew off, the pulleys press fit? or am I missing something?)

also, befor I asked here, I posted on another forum about the lapping, seems people are saying not to (it can ruin the bead etc)
but Taig says to do so (I guess you guys know what forum I am talking about :big


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## steamer

Geez speedy,

It is really unorthodox to put lapping compound on the bed of a lathe.....makes my skin crawl just thinking about it.....I know it says so on the taig site........but the inner me says no way! :big:

Warm Regards,

Dave


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## joe d

Speedy

your Lagostina stuff looks like scouring powder to me. I'd go with it. As to the advisability of lapping the ways, when I got my lathe, I was brand-new to this machining game, and didn't know that I shouldn't, so I did. It certainly did make the carriage travel smoother. I forgot to mention the gibs, all I did to them was slide them around on a piece of 600 grit emery cloth, there were a few burrs that needed removing. Cleaned them and the ways with some mineral spirits to remove all the abrasive residues, re-assembled and it was all good. I've been lubricating the ways with plain old 3 in 1 ever since, and everything is still working fine.

I suspect that the lapping is more about smoothing the fit of the alloy casting of the carriage than it is about smoothing the steel ways, but that's just my guess.

Joe


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## Speedy

kool should be lapping within days ;D 

I need to build a bench, my desk is way to wobbly! (even to write on :big
does 26inch by 19 sound alright. not sure wood or steel (angle iron etc)

also, how do I get the pulleys off the motor and headstock, took the set screws out but pulleys dont want to budge!


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## Speedy

forgot to mention that the desk will probably be all steel (frame and top)
do you guy see any problem with this? (vibration etc)


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## joe d

Hey Speedy

An angle iron bench with plywood or chipboard on top to dampen the noise maybe? Suspect that a metal top might be a little noisy...

I put mine on a chipboard stair tread from the local wood yard, 1.25" thick, with some large rubber feet under it, it sits on top of my shop-built router table as my machine shop is my wood shop is my painting room is my etc etc etc (space is at a premium )










Easily moved around, but stays put while using it.

As to your pulleys, try giving them a whap with a soft-faced hammer just to break the "seal" if that doesn't work, get a hub puller! (Cdn Tire has one they sell for removing faucet handles that would be just the right size)

Cheers, Joe


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## Speedy

thanks Joe.
I will think this over more.

now that I see your setup maybe I should move my motor over like yours?
the way mine is right now will get oil sprayed on it! or maybe I can bend some metal to cover it.


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## Speedy

modified the title of this thread :big:

I went to my local tool store
they carry lots of chinese stuff and "king canada" brand

I went to purchase some lathe cutters called "toolmex", altho I did not buy them because they were just a tad bit shorter and fatter then the blank I have in my holder now. I know that the tool needs to be centered with the work (not to high, not to low) but this tool fit into the holder just fine, will this work for my taig?

also, they have blanks that are close to the same size (I plan on learning how to grind myself)


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## raggle

Taig's steel bed is, I'm led to understand, precision ground before it is bonded to the al extrusion with concrete. Therefore "lapping" here is really just a final polish of the aluminium. If something as agressive as valve lapping compound were to be used the grains would embed in the al and the only metal removed would be from the bed. This is NOT what is wanted. I'm told that even toothpaste is too aggressive for this operation and therefore your kitchen scourer powder is near ideal, removing nothing from the bed but polishing the al to it. I hope that makes sense.

When you have managed to remove the pulley, examine the shaft. A dog tooth grub screw usually bites into it. If you ever want to remove it again, a tiny brass plug in the bottom of the hole under the screw will be ok (having corrected the damage)

Ray


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## joe d

Speedy  said:
			
		

> I went to purchase some lathe cutters called "toolmex", altho I did not buy them because they were just a tad bit shorter and fatter then the blank I have in my holder now. I know that the tool needs to be centered with the work (not to high, not to low) but this tool fit into the holder just fine, will this work for my taig?



Speedy

The issue here is that the cutting edge of the tool needs to be at the centreline of the work.. I have had to shim up a tool with various things (Paper, brass shim stock etc) to achieve this, especially as I have tried to grind some of my own bits and the dimensions are sometimes a little erratic :big:
The good thing is that the taig tool post is just a piece of 1 x 1 aluminum with a hole to suit the 10-32 cap screw that holds it on the carriage and a slot in it for the tool. Therefore, if you have some tool blanks of a different dimension, it sure isn't too difficult to whip up a dedicated tool post for them. There are QCTPs out there for Taigs as well. 

As to the location of the motor in my set-up, for sure it was to avoid filling the motor casing with swarf and anything else.

A while back somebody on this board posted a photo of his Taig setup that had the lathe on top of a shop-made wooden box that contained both the motor and drawers for accessories. If I had to do it again I would seriously consider some version like that.

Joe


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## Tin Falcon

Speedy:
 As far as tool size and height. I have used everything from 1/8 to 3/8 cutting tools in both my 7x 10 mini lathe and my 9" South Bend. The 1/8 bits used for grooving and backed up in a piece of 3/8 mild steel with a 1/8 groove in it. If I had to pick one size and stay with it for my machines i would probably do 1/4 inch the South Bend is a tool room lathe and the mini is well mini so neither is designed for production hogging cuts. 

Tool height is especially important for certain operations. 
Facing if tool is not center height face will not clean up you will have a pip left.
Parting too low you will have a stub left over .to high you will have a stub that may catch the tool and break it or tear the work out of the chuck . 
Tapers if the tool is not center it can change the taper angle. I use a 6" rule to set center height. Hold the rule lightly between the tool and the round stock rule will be vertical when tool is on center. the easiest way to adjust center height of tool is a quick change tool post. these save lots of time and headache setting tools or you can tape shim sets to cutters to save time. 
the A2Z CNC QCTP works well on my mini lathe. 

Stoning your hss bits drastically improves performance and finish. A regular wheel will hollow grind so you only need to stone the edges. And to start just grind up a couple of general purpose bits. yes there is an ideal geometry for every material but for the hobbyist just starting out you do not need the perfect bit for every job or metal. 
I posted the specs for a gp bit around here a while ago. if you need me to I can dig it up or repost. 
Tin


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## Speedy

Raggle
thanks for the info, I feel more confident about lapping now 
im not to sure what you mean about the brass plug.

Joe d
lol I cant make my own holders yet, no mill  (thats my next BIG want!) 
I will think about the placement of the motor, but if I put it below the table top then belt changing might be a hassle?

Tin Falcon
so staying with 1/4 would be best, price wise also.
an already ground bit or carbid tipped is about 4-6 dollars (1/4) and a 1/4 blank is 2 dollars 
http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=160110
should I buy this for reference and getting measurements (and to start off)
http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B287C6

what is "GP"? I will see if I can also locate your thread.
now im getting intimidated about grinding, when you say stoning you mean sharpening by hand?
any links to good grinding sites?

can anyone provide links to what I will need to get started on grinding? (my dad has a bench grinder)
what jig? wheels? etc (maybe even compatible for mill bits when I get a mill)

also a link to a good qctp

not to mention I am going to need a shopping list to get me started! with my lathe

 :big:


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## kuhncw

Regarding removing the headstock pulley, this note came from the factory with my Taig lathe.

*"IMPORTANT NOTICE
Headstock pulleys are furnished with close fitting tolerances.
Heating pulley in hot water or use of propane torch will expand pulley to 
slide on spindle freely.
DO NOT USE HAMMER"*

To me the torch is a little scary. You might try heating the pulley with a hair dryer or a heat gun. 


A little heat might help the motor pulley as well. I can't speak for the motor as I didn't buy the Taig motor. I'm running a Sherline DC motor on my Taig lathe.

Take a look at to see a really fine looking Taig lathe, take a look at John Bentley's machine.

http://lathes.jrbentley.com/taig.html

Regards,

Chuck


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## gmac

Michael;

I'm not much ahead of you on the learning curve but for what it's worth....

Don't be intimidated by grinding 1/4" toolbits. When I bought my used Taig it came with a set of Taig's pre-ground bits which I set aside and use as a reference when grinding my own. With the 1/4' size its only the parting off tool and the boring bit that require a considerable amount of time to remove metal (25 minutes for me). The other tool shapes ground up quickly and if you don't rush yourself (hand holding the bit forced me to take my time, cooling the bit in water when it got warm to hold) it's relatively easy to sneak up on the angles required. I just purchased a small metal machinist's protractor to grind specific angles - worked fine - as far as I was concerned. PS - take a look at your Dad's grinder and see how rough (uneven) the face of the wheels are before trying to grind toolbits. At least reface the wheels or better yet get new ones specifically for doing toolbits.

The Sherline website has an article on grinding your own toolbits that was useful to me. I've stuck with 1/4" for now and have bought blanks from BusyBee when they went on sale.

KBC is also great to deal with for tooling, and also gives you access to USA made tooling as well as China made. They will regularly sent out sale flyers in the way BusyBee does if you request the catalog.

http://www.kbctools.com/can/

Lee Valley has a Taig instruction booklet in PDF form (free) on their website. Go to the last item on this page "Taig Lathe Instruction Booklet" and click "Instr". This contains dimensional data for mounting the motor off to the left of the headstock instead of behind it.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=43104&cat=1,330,50260&ap=1

Lots of data on the web for tool shapes - I've tried some odd stuff recommended by others that work well for specific metals. Just grind away and go at it!!

Cheers 
Garry


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## Tin Falcon

OK Micheal lets try this again. I inteded to post this am but never quite put the post on the board. You know that four letter word? W-O-R-K. Anyway to answer you questions
Lots of discussion here http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1494.0
Here are a couple of excerpts(edited a little to make sense here)

The idea of a general purpose bit suitable for most materials has been mentioned. 
The recommended geometry for a GP bit is as follows. 
End cutting edge angle 30 degrees
Side cutting edge angle Zero degrees
Side relief 10 degrees.
End relief 10 degrees.
Side rake 15 degrees
back rake 5 degrees. 
Nose radius 1/16th inch 
For definitions of these terms see the charts posted below

well what does this look like?? since bits are generally small a while back I did a wooden demo to illustrate the concept. 
Here is a photo of a right hand bit. 




and here is the top view




A left hand version of this would likely work well as a fly cutter.
Hope this helps 
Tin




 I went to machinist school about 11 years ago at the beginning of the lathe block of instruction we were taught the basics of the lathe and tool grinding when we got to the lab we were each given a piece of IIRC 1/4 mild steel and told to grind it like a cutter (general purpose). The cutters we actually used were more or less sharp and ready to go but we had to grind our own as needed. no insert stuff in school. I have been able to grind a usable cutter for whatever need since. Not necessarily the prettiest. As time has gone on they have fewer facets and look more like the text books and photos. 
Experience has taught that stoning makes a huge difference in the way a HSS lathe bit cuts. 
Entire books have been written about cutting tool material and geometry.
Here are a couple of charts that may help





I prefer 0 degree side cutting angle myself but the larger angles ar better for roughing. 





The way a tool is ground also depends on the tool holder for instance a lantern tool post had built in back rake a QC does not. 
I ground the form tool to do the little candle holder posted in the galley. 
Back rake is not needed for brass and zero back rake will work for other materials as well. 
Hope this helps.
And do not limit yourself to facing and cutting tools
you can grind /make your own boring bars

The round one is made from drill rod the the other from a lathe tool blank.




And last but not least form tools like this one. 





The tool is on the right the miniature candle stick and a dime for size reference. 

For QCTP here is one place to look 
www.littlemachineshop.com
Or you can go directly to A2Z CNC
they look like this




Hope this all helps
Tin 

Tin


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## Speedy

wow Tin.
thank you! also an interesting read as it brings in other cutters.
I was going to ask if a tool jig would help but it seems that holding the tool would be the ideal way?
(one blank can do 2 tools right? one cutter on the each side)

I did read that someone when they started were given purchased bits to duplicate and also to see how the purchased ones cut. I am thinking that might be a good idea. (with lee valleys)

any specific grinding discs that I should look into (also bran name for quality?)
arkansa stone for sharpening? 

anyone used carbide with a Taig? 
or is carbide something that is more towards cnc equipment.

I will look into the QCTP but I am going to wait with that or I will be on the verge of........ broke! :big:

ps, Tin the second picture is hard to make out. would it be bigger if emailed?


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## Tin Falcon

> any specific grinding discs that I should look into (also bran name for quality?)
> Arkansas stone for sharpening?


My grinding wheel is just the cheapy that came on the Jet Grinder
My shop stone was $2.00 at a yard sale . But if I was having to buy new I would likey look for a USA brand such as 3m or norton 
My bench stone is an Arkansas oil stone you are just smoothing out the edge not remcahanging the shap much also itis a good idea to do the tip radius by hand. 



> anyone used carbide with a Taig?
> or is carbide something that is more towards cnc equipment.


A topic of lenthy discussion carbide vs HSS
Carbide can be used in the hobby shop. there are advantages and disadvantages.
Carbide likes speed and imho is not best suited to small hobby machines . 
advantages
 it will cut faster than HSS
longer tool life if used properly
Disadvatages 
will chip with interrupted cuts on steel
can chip with intermittent coolant 
need Green wheel or diamond wheel to sharpen. 
In you shoes I would probably buy a couple an try them out. 


> ps, Tin the second picture is hard to make out. would it be bigger if emailed?



I will try to get you a more readable copy

If short on cash by all means wait a bit on the QCTP but try to be frugal with other little purchases that add up so you can save for a qctp. I have seen new ones on e-bay for sale, shop around for deals. 
Tin


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## Speedy

I will check out the wheels on my dads grinder.
I know he has some stones also so im sure im set for grinding 

carbide dosnt sound like its for me, small machine and im sure in my newby state I will fudge allot of things up in a hurry! lol.

I am talking with a x tool maker about tools and measuring equipment etc, he may be able to help me out as he is selling off. (if its good I will jump on it) 

but that aside, my original plan is just to purchase blanks and maybe taigs already ground tools just to start and give me reference, other then that and stock to machine I would be saving money


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## Tin Falcon

Micheal check you e-mail box
Tin


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## Foozer

Speedy  said:
			
		

> (one blank can do 2 tools right? one cutter on the each side)
> 
> I
> or is carbide something that is more towards cnc equipment.
> 
> I will look into the QCTP but I am going to wait with that or I will be on the verge of........ broke! :big:



HSS blank bits are cheap so really no need to form each end. QCTP not so cheap, I have one and find myself migrating back to the original rocker tool post. When turning smaller/shorter pieces say <2 inches there just isnt enough room for that toolpost. The rocker post keeps the tool bit closer to the cross slide center line and I am finding for taking light cuts <2-3 thou it works better.

Get a dozen blank bits and have fun with the grinder, just watch them fingers, those bits get hot real fast 

Robert


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## Speedy

hey guys.
I was going to lap yesterday but it turns out I dont have Taigs recommended SAE 20 motor oil,
trying to save myself from purchasing that oil. can I get away with using 5w-30 synthetic? (tho I dont want to cheap out and hurt something)

the instructions read
"use generous amount of lapping paste. if stroking feels excessively abrasive add more oil, approximate ratio one teaspoon abrasive to 1/4 cup light oil (SAE 20 motor oil)."


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## Kermit

Speedy  said:
			
		

> hey guys.
> I was going to lap yesterday but it turns out I dont have Taigs recommended SAE 20 motor oil,



Their is NO reason why 30W oil would not work in its place. Get the cheapest bottle of no name brand Straight 30 weight you find. These are often just oil without detergents or other gasoline engine cleaning additives. That's EXACTLY what you want. Cheap straight non detergent oil.  Around here it used to be found at the local Wallyworld as Golden state 30W motor oil.  No additives in that stuff.


Just thought you'd like to know.  Who sells small bottles of 20W anyway? (I'm putting $100 on the answer being Taig)  ;D

Kermit


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## Speedy

so the 5w-30 synth I have here might be iffy? because of additives.

LOL yes Taig selling the small bottles, I can see that! :big:


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## joe d

Hey Speedy

i used Cdn Tire's "high quality" house-brand (The cheapest one on the shelf) 5w 30, it seemed to work OK....(I just didn't tell the lathe, it never noticed :big

Joe


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## Speedy

well jeez, my lathe should be happy that its getting some premium oil!  ;D


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## Speedy

okay so its done!
went well, taig manual says 30-40 strokes and you should be done, I know I didnt do 30 (less) but I was happy with the results and how smooth everything went, I am thinking it maybe could use a tad more but im going to hold off.... it can always be done later (I know I will be very pleased with this)

I am cleaning everything now, HOW DO YOU TAKE OFF THE TOP CROSS SLIDE CARRIAGE? (had to make that in caps :big
is it just the brass nut in the center of the had wheel?

thanks for all the help you guys are providing ;D


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## Speedy

no worries I managed to get everything squeaky clean ;D


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## Speedy

okay now that my taig is all nice and clean its time to move onto a shopping list.

I am hoping you can all pitch in and let me know what is essential.

I am still going the HSS route, but I thought maybe this would be a good buy also
http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=B2122
(these are toss away tips? or can they still be sharpened with a different wheel)

and I have a digital caliper.

please add everything you think I should have. 
and if you have anything laying around I might be interested 

spend my money good :big:


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## Speedy

sorry for chain posts :big:

I was wondering for bigger parts you can get a raiser blocks. but my self centering 3 jaw chuck maxes out on my lathe already.
if I got the raiser blocks, how do I get my chuck to open more?? ??? :-\


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## joe d

Hi Speedy

Is this the Taig 3-jaw? If so, the aluminum jaws are held on with 2 cap screws each... one could just remove them and replace with some aluminum bits a little longer than needed for the job in hand. Face them, and cut a recess in the jaws slightly less than the diameter of the work-piece, and you have a custom work holder that is going to be concentric to the axis of rotation.

Hope this helps!

Joe


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## Deanofid

Speedy, close your three jaw down all the way and cut steps in the outside of the jaws. Then reverse the jaws and you can hold bigger bits. Just watch that you don't cut into the tops of the SHCS's that hold the jaws to the chuck.
Be careful turning large stock with the aluminum jaws. Don't take cuts that are too deep or you risk pulling the work out of the chuck.

Check it out;







Dean W


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## Speedy

thanks for the help guys! 
I didn't think of doing that, I wont try it for awhile. dont want to mess anything up just yet... even tho I do have an extra set of jaws.


will HSS work alright for cold rolled steel? I dont want to dull my bits fast but I have lots of crs in the house.


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## Tin Falcon

Speedy with proper speeds feeds and a bit of sulpherised oil you should be fine.

1018 is the most common cold rolled and has a machinability index of 78%
1212 = 100%
12L14 = 170%
cold drawn aluminum = 360%
BTW sulpherised oil should be available from the local plumbing supply hardware store home improvement center. Problay just called cutting oil. Use this for STEEL.
Tin


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## Speedy

thanks Tin.
well I just reolized I have no idea what my crs is (I will assume its 1018) :big:
is carbide geared more towards steel? (longer tool life)

also, if my tools get dull how do I sharpen them? oil stone? (taig tools, preground HSS)


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## Tin Falcon

speedy:
 Carbides are geared for faster production longer tool life is certainly part of this equation 
Keep in mind entire books have been written on cutting tool materials.
There are carbides for wood carbides for steel carbides for cast iron ect. 
There are also many grades of tool steel the grades with cobalt mixed in will last longer on steel. 
Read brians thread on tool grinding. grab a few blanks grind then up hone them and try to cut with them. 
Also read this http://www.metalwebnews.com/machine-tools/CH7.PDF it may answer a bunch of basic questions. 
Tin


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## Speedy

Tin I read the link but nothing about sharpening (unless I completely missed it)
can I use stones you sharpen knives with (double sided oil stone, not sure the name)

I used the lathe today! had to clean up some plastic material for a R/C project. man is it addicting :big:
I was having so much fun that I messed up some measurements (very minor), but nothing that will effect my project.

now onto tools again. (if you remember my post on all those new starrett tools)
with plenty of back and forth emails with the seller, he is offering me a smaller package

"12'' electronic caliper
1'' electroninc indicator
mag.base w/ fine adjustment
tap wrench, taps and a center drill
3' square, 6" level, small rule set
Tape measure, 24" straight edge
(most include cases)

I'll throw in for free: Starrett note pad, englich-metric conversion card and tap drill size card and oil."
also some other small things.

I feel its a heck of a deal for 250 canadian


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## Tin Falcon

Speedy:
Probably a good deal 
the above link does have tool and grinding info you just need to scroll down a few pages 7-5 to 7-10 .
Tin


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## Speedy

I did see the grinding parts, but I was more wondering about sharpening without grinding agian.
like with a stone.

I will look again. because I was also wondering what the proper ways are to put my tool bits in the holder.
Deanofid's look like its on an angle. maybe because hes facing the inside (ugg I need to learn the proper terms! :big

I think im turning into a machine addict


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## Tin Falcon

Sorry speedy no pictures of how to stone the bits just hold them to the stone if done on the wheel a bit will be hollow ground the cutting edge and heel of each face will touch the wet/oil stone that is all you need . just hone the cutting edge and the heel a litle the middle of the bit may not be touched by the oil stone that is ok. 
Tin


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## Deanofid

Speedy, the price of the tools looks pretty good if it's all Starret, but give some thought to the use of them. I don't know what machines you have, but if it's just the Taig, you probably won't have any use for the level or the 24" straight edge. Also, the 12" caliper is pretty long for working on small stuff. A 6" length will be a lot handier for use on a small lathe, unless you foresee a need to measure longer items with .001" accuracy. 

Just my two bits.

Dean


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## Speedy

hi Dean.
its all Starret and all bran new.
sorry the caliper is 8'' (forgot to update my post). I do have a 6 inch but it sometimes gets close to maxing out so the 8'' will be handy.
I was asking to do a trade for something else instead of the level and the 24'' straight edge but he was just throwing those in (both of those are over 100 new, from my research)

I am planning on getting a mill.
and if I can find some actual bigger machines then I will upgrade. (got the taig for a good price so I wont feel to bad)


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## Speedy

okay first attempt at mystery steel.
looks like I know how to make a prop nut!

from the look of this steel can anyone identify it?
tried 500rpm then 800rpm but no success, I got these speeds of sherlines website videos.

sure didnt cut as nice as the plastic yesterday :big:

** edit, forgot to mention I need to shim my tool slightly, its leaving a small nub.


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## mklotz

You've got your workpiece sticking way too far out of the chuck. A reasonable rule of thumb is that the work should project no more than twice its diameter from the chuck.


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## Foozer

Speedy  said:
			
		

> okay first attempt at mystery steel.
> looks like I know how to make a prop nut!
> 
> from the look of this steel can anyone identify it?
> tried 500rpm then 800rpm but no success, I got these speeds of sherlines website videos.
> 
> sure didnt cut as nice as the plastic yesterday :big:



That cut looks familiar 

A steady rest me thinks is in order. Skinny bar hanging out from chuck will just flex all over the place and once that chatter starts . . . at least for me, unless I can get the piece held ridged it just wont go away.

Robert


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## Speedy

:wall: ooops.

so if I want to turn something this long, would I need to put the tailstock on with a live center? (im assuming just drill a hole at the end of the material?) I dont have a steady rest.

thanks Mklotz, Foozer 
regards

ps. anyone know the metal im working with?


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## Speedy

I managed to get a better finnish but its still by no means great.
going to take a break, ran out of things to try :'( (maybe mistery metal is part of the problem :big


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## Deanofid

Speedy  said:
			
		

> so if I want to turn something this long, would I need to put the tailstock on with a live center? (im assuming just drill a hole at the end of the material?) I dont have a steady rest.



Speedy, put a center drill (not a regular drill bit) in the tail stock chuck and drill a hole so that about 2/3 of the angled center part of the drill goes into the work piece. Then you can use the tail stock center in the hole you just made. You can use the standard tail stock center, that also has the drill chuck threads on it, or if you have a Taig live center, use that.
If you use the dead center, be sure to lube it well. A good grease or heavy oil, and keep the rpm's down. Check the heat of the center often. If it gets uncomfortably warm, it needs more lube.

For practicing just making cuts, get something about one inch in dia and 2 to 2 1/2" long and chuck it up in the three jaw. You'll get a lot better idea of what the lathe can do, since it the piece won't flex all over the place. If you have some one inch aluminum rod, try that first. Otherwise, use what you've got, but keep it short. 

Dean


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