# BALL TURNER MYSTERIES UNVEILED!!!



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 4, 2009)

I take no credit for the designs shown in the following post. A gentleman named Steve Bedair seems to be the person who originally came up with this ball turner, and DividedHead did a couple of marvelous videos of it in operation. http://bedair.org/Ball/ball.html I have been curious about ball turners for some time, and up untill now they were a bit of a mystery to me. I am totally "Holidayed Out" today, so I spent the day studying ball turners. I took the information from a set of plans that were posted on Steve Bedairs website, and went about seeing what would have to be done to make and mount one on my specific lathe. ---And of course, since I have a bunch of carbide insert tooling with 3/8" square shanks, I designed the tool holder to suit my existing tools. Follow along if you like and perhaps you will gain a bit of insight into these marvelous tools 







View attachment ASSY OF BALL TURNER.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 4, 2009)

The first thing that I figured out, is that you must remove the tool post (actually, the entire compound rest) from your lathe. My lathe has a T-slot plate that can be mounted when the toolpost is removed, and at first I thought that I would have to mount the T-slot plate onto my lathe, then mount the ball turner on top of it, but no dice. The top of the T-slot plate ends up too high (too close to the centerline of the chuck) to do that, so this ball turner must mount directly to the top of the apron which the compound rest sets on. The attached .jpg shows the ball turner mounted on the lathe, and it shows the chuck with a peice in it being turned into a ball. In this particular .jpg. the tool is setting at right angles to the central axis of the lathe.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 4, 2009)

In this picture, the ball turner is swung so that the tool is setting parallel to the central axis of the lathe. The yellow plate is what gets bolted on in place of your lathes compound rest. Apparently when setting up to turn a ball, the center of the yellow plate should be lined up so that its center of rotation is "in line" with the center of the chuck, the tip of the cutting tool should be just touching the end of the part to be turned, and the distance from the yellow plates centerline to the tip of the cutting tool should be equal to the radius of the desired ball. (which is also the diameter of the round peice held in the chuck.)


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## Kermit (Jan 4, 2009)

This is marvelous. I can see right away how it could be set to also make convex curves and if a way could be devised to set it in circular motion as it is driven by the lathe as would be done for thread cutting, long hyperbolic curves could be made.

Or was it parabolic. I'd have to dig out my geometry books to be sure, anywho...thanks for this Brian. It really got my old thinker stinking.

,
Kermit


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 4, 2009)

In this .jpg, the ball turner handle is swung towards the lathe chuck as far as it can go. The length of handle and angle at which it is attached comes into play here (you don't want to swing your knuckles into the revolving chuck!!!) Also, depending on exactly what cutting tool you use, it will reach a point where it can not be swung any farther towards the chuck, because the side of the tool will interfere with the turning peice. (Of course, you can get around that by using a tool with an offset point.)


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 4, 2009)

This .jpg shows a view looking straight down on the top of the lathe, and shows all 3 positions of the ball turner relative to the chuck. Of course, the entire ball turner (except for the yellow plate) is swung though an arc from one extreme to the other by hand when cutting a ball.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 4, 2009)

And of course, here is an exploded view of the ball turner, in case you were wondering what was inside it and how many peices there are to it. As I said at the beginning of this thread, I take no credit for the design of this unit. I went thru this exercise today to make it clear to myself, and thought that there are probably others "out there" who would like a bit more knowledge on these really neat tools. There are a number of great posts by very talented people, and if I have helped to clarify things a little bit, then thats great.---Brian


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## Cedge (Jan 4, 2009)

Hey Brian
It's even more fun when you do it with real metal....(grin). It took me a bit to get my head wrapped around how they worked, in the beginning. I used Steve Bedair's basic premise and fitted it to the 7 x14 lathe. After a couple of false starts and a couple of odd looking balls, it all became clear. Since then I've had a ball every time I've used it. (pun intended) 

Now I look for new ways to use it for both convex and concave cuts. It's made handles and hand wheels for my lathe, contours on cylinder end caps, shaped the big end of the connecting rod and a number of fittings on the Water Pressure engine and even the new shifter knob on my Jeep. 

Go on.... build one and see what I mean....(grin)

Steve


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## T70MkIII (Jan 5, 2009)

Simply brilliant, Brian - thanks for finding, analysing and posting.

Cedge, I like the idea of doing concave cuts.


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## kvom (Jan 5, 2009)

It seems from the picture that you need to remove the compound, not just the toolpost for that lathe. With a larger swing lathe you should be able to attach it to the compound t-slot.

I am assuming that as drawn, you would probably need to be able to shim the tool to adjust it precisely to the centerline of the axis.

My one experience with using one in school was to round off the end of a 1" brass rod. Adjusting both the center of rotation and height of the tool were pretty critical to getting a proper result, but once done it went pretty easily. I found it tricky to control how fast I swung the tool: too fast left a poor finish. I wonder if it would be possible to make a geared version similar to a rotab that would permit a slow, steady rotation of the tool.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 5, 2009)

kvom  said:
			
		

> It seems from the picture that you need to remove the compound, not just the toolpost for that lathe. With a larger swing lathe you should be able to attach it to the compound t-slot.
> 
> I am assuming that as drawn, you would probably need to be able to shim the tool to adjust it precisely to the centerline of the axis.
> 
> My one experience with using one in school was to round off the end of a 1" brass rod. Adjusting both the center of rotation and height of the tool were pretty critical to getting a proper result, but once done it went pretty easily. I found it tricky to control how fast I swung the tool: too fast left a poor finish. I wonder if it would be possible to make a geared version similar to a rotab that would permit a slow, steady rotation of the tool.



Yes, Kvom---You are correct. Sorry about any confusion from my terminology here. It is the entire compound rest along with the toolpost that has to be removed.---Brian


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## modeng2000 (Jan 5, 2009)

I wonder if the pivot bolt securing the rotating body to the base ever works loose. Does the Belleville washer prevent the bolt from moving in its threaded hole?

If this might be a problem, one solution is to drill and tap the bolt hole right through the rotating body and then tighten a socket grub screw down onto the end of the pivot bolt.

Just an idea.


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## firebird (Jan 5, 2009)

Hi

I have just posted my ball turner which is designed for myford lathes over in the tools section. I have posted a bit of video as well that might help.

Cheers

Rich


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 5, 2009)

firebird  said:
			
		

> Hi
> 
> I have just posted my ball turner which is designed for myford lathes over in the tools section. I have posted a bit of video as well that might help.
> 
> ...



Rich--I know. It was your thread that prompted me to investigate this yesterday. I see from your video that a Myford lathe has T-slots in the part directly under the cross slide (which I assume you have removed to mount the ball turner). On my Craftex lathe, there is only one circular T-slot and a plain center hole. The compound rest has a center spigot on the bottom which fits into the hole, and a circular flange with 2 holes that the T-bolts stick up through.---Brian


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## firebird (Jan 5, 2009)

Hi Brian

Thats right the myford does have T slots. I think I'm right in saying that the cross slide on my lathe is an extended version and not the standard one.

Cheers

Rich


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 5, 2009)

Damn, I didn't think my lathe was that dirty!!!


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## dwentz (Jan 5, 2009)

Brian,


 Thanks for posting this. I have been looking at building one of these, and your description helps with the design to fit it on my lathe. I have a few other projects to knock out before I get to this, but it is on my short list.


Dale


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## Bernd (Jan 5, 2009)

The re-invention of the ball turner. :big:

Check this old thread out - http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1721.0

Might give some more ideas about ball turners.

Bernd


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 5, 2009)

Bernd  said:
			
		

> The re-invention of the ball turner. :big:
> 
> Check this old thread out - http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1721.0
> 
> ...



Bernd--I did see all of those old threads while I was researching the ball turner, and I did say in my first post that I take no credit for the design. I did refer people to Steve Bedair's website. I am not attempting to reinvent anything here. I did the cad work to aquaint myself with how a ball turner would work on my own lathe, and simply put this post up as a general interest topic.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 6, 2009)

This is a drawing of the ball turner body. It is identical to the one on Steve Bedairs website, and it shouldn't change, regardless of what lathe you have.





View attachment BALL TURNER ROTATING BODY.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 6, 2009)

This is a drawing of the base, pretty well the same as Steve Bedairs. Keep in mind, however,as per the main general arrangement drawing at the beginning of this post, the hole centers and diameter and O.D. of the part are suited to my specific lathe. If your lathe is not a Craftex B2227L, then these dimensions will have to be changed to suit your own lathe.






View attachment BALL TURNER BASE.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 6, 2009)

And last, but certainly not least, the tool holder. Again, keep in mind that this design is very specific to my Craftex lathe, and to a inserted carbide tool with a 3/8" square shank on it. The height of this peice is critical---Again, as per the main General Arrangement drawing at the very beginning of this post, the height from the underside of the ball turner base to the top of the cutting tool must match the distance from the mounting surface on your cross slide up to the centerline of your chuck.





View attachment TOOL HOLDER.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 6, 2009)

I made the handle from 1/2" diameter round cold rolled x 7 1/4" long with a 3/8"-16 unc thread x 5/8" long on each end, and a 1" diameter ball. The handle might have to be heated and bent to clear obstructions on your lathe, or to be in a more ergonomic position for you.


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## Bernd (Jan 6, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> I did say in my first post that I take no credit for the design.



I didn't mention anything about who took credit.



> I did refer people to Steve Bedair's website.



That was also mentioned in that thread. :



> I am not attempting to reinvent anything here.



Don't look that way from my side of the fence. :big:



> I did the cad work to aquaint myself with how a ball turner would work on my own lathe, and simply put this post up as a general interest topic.---Brian



I built one to see how it works. ;D


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 6, 2009)

Bernd---I'm setting around here on my arse with no work, waiting for the phone to ring. I am curious about ball turners, and I admire you if you built one to see how they worked. Different strokes for different folks. I would rather do it on the computer to "see if it works" than machine parts and then send them to the scrap bin because they didn't work. why are you raggin' on me?


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## Brass_Machine (Jan 6, 2009)

I am assuming the Craftex is like a seig C2 style lathe.

A couple of places to get some ideas on how to mount that up

One that I started for a C2

GadgetBuilders ball turner. Where I got my inspiration from.

Eric


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 6, 2009)

Okay---Let the games begin!!! I just went down to my local metal supplier and spent $10.87 for enough stock to build the ball turner and a chunk of 1" O.D. aluminum to make a ball from.


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## artrans (Jan 6, 2009)

ligthen up guys brian has done a great service to this site for the time i have been here he shares and has great talant that we can all learn from I will never understand people. We should all be greatful when someone is willing to share an idea and make it so anyone can understand if you think making a draw in cad is easy good luck the pics that brian has done for all of use would cost use dearly if we had to pay. enough said I am so pissed off now
I can't believe it.


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## tel (Jan 6, 2009)

Just a couple of points;

Someone suggested milling a slot in the side of the tool head, where the pinch screws in the body bear on it - I did that and it is, IMHO, a very worthwhile mod.

I build two tool heads for mine - one 'normal' for convex turning, and one 'back to front' for concave.

I hacked up a 6" rule and used bits of it to put little scales on the feet of the tool heads. (oos, that's three)


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 6, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Just a couple of points;
> 
> Someone suggested milling a slot in the side of the tool head, where the pinch screws in the body bear on it - I did that and it is, IMHO, a very worthwhile mod.
> 
> ...



Yes Tel, your right about the relief in the side of the tool holder. I missed that. I will add it to my drawings,---Brian


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## Cedge (Jan 6, 2009)

Brian
The slot will help things a bit, but my next one will also have a brass strip in the slot to keep the screws ends from buggering up the aluminum. I've got to build another one for the C4 lathe. The original one wont bolt to the slots in the cross slide and its a wee bit short of the center line.

Bernd... 
Easy there amigo... I like "machining with digits" first, myself. Nothing wrong with wasting a bunch of 1's and 0's before one begins cutting metal. Sure saves on buying a larger scrap bin. I don't think I saw anyone stealing any credit... I did see someone sharing the fruits..... and the credits. 

Artrans....
Ah... Never mind....LOL. It's just part of life on an online forum. Getting a hornet in one's bloomers just happens from time to time. 

Steve


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 6, 2009)

Cedge---Very well said, LMAO :big: :big:


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## Bernd (Jan 6, 2009)

Cedge  said:
			
		

> Bernd...
> Easy there amigo... I like "machining with digits" first, myself. Nothing wrong with wasting a bunch of 1's and 0's before one begins cutting metal.



Makes you wonder how they built machines before computer's don't you think? :big:



> Sure saves on buying a larger scrap bin.



Don't need a scrap bin, I just reuse the part on something else, although it may be a bit smaller. Very little scarp. But then I don't do much either, just ask the wife. : :big: :big:



> I don't think I saw anyone stealing any credit... I did see someone sharing the fruits..... and the credits.



Could you quote me were I said that please?

That's all. Good night.

Bernd


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## Cedge (Jan 7, 2009)

Bernd.... 
I'm going let it all slide and chalk it up to a bad day in your world. 

Steve 
skid marks on his fingertips.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 7, 2009)

I have identified a problem with my planned build. The attached picture shows the cross slide of my lathe cranked in to its maximum position. As you can see, the center of my circular T-slot does not reach the centerline of my lathe chuck. In fact, it lacks an inch of going far enough. This will have to be remedied so that I can reach the position shown in the attached solid model. To rectify this situation, I am going to have to modify the ball turner base, to allow the center of the ball turner to be offset by an inch from the center of the circular T-slot in order to be able to set this tool up properly.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 7, 2009)

This layout shows the changes necessary to the ball turner baseplate. The 1.00" dimension is the offset from the centerline of the ball turner pivot to the center of my circular T-slot, and it also shows the position of the new mounting holes. The heavy blue circle shows where the center of my circular T-slot will now be.


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## kvom (Jan 7, 2009)

Might be a blessing in disguise. You move the cross slide to its full extension and you're automagically lined up on the axis.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 7, 2009)

The change in the ball turner baseplate will now let me achieve this position, which is critical to be able to make a perfect ball and not an ogive. (which is a kind of oval with pointy ends).


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## scoop (Jan 7, 2009)

Heres a ball turner mystery for you all.What came first the ball turner or the ball on the end of the ball turner handle?

 best regards Steve C


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 7, 2009)

The revised ball turner base will now look like this.





View attachment BALL TURNER BASE.PDF


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## Captain Jerry (Jan 7, 2009)

Brian

If the pivot point is short of the axis, you get a toroid, not an ogive. You may want to allow the pivot to go past the axis in case you do want an ogive. A brass ogive might be a little heavy for a rocket nose but it makes a nice knob for the top of the sugarbowl.

Jerry


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## Captain Jerry (Jan 7, 2009)

A light just went on in my head. I don't have a ball maker but if I did, I would try this.

Turn a disk with a recess in the face, like the start of a flywheel. leave the outer rim thickness = to the thickness of the disk. Set the pivot point half the thickness of the rim in from the outer edge and half the thickness of the disk in from the face. Set the radius of the ball maker to half the thickness of either. (They should be the same). Back the carriage off toward the tailstock. Using the carriage feed, NOT the crossfeed, make 180 degree sweeps with the ball maker as you feed into the face.  You will have to stop slightly short of 180 on the inside.  Reverse the plate and do it again. Voila! A nice handwheel with a round rim.

Jerry


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## Bernd (Jan 7, 2009)

scoop  said:
			
		

> Heres a ball turner mystery for you all.What came first the ball turner or the ball on the end of the ball turner handle?
> 
> best regards Steve C



I'd say the ball came first. Reason it can be done just using the cross slide and the carriage al la Guy Lautard, author of the 3 Bedside Readers. ;D

Bernd


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## artrans (Jan 7, 2009)

jerry I would draw it for one day a soon as I figure the f7&*7 BASTARD OUT. JUST TRYING TO SPREAD SOME HUMOR. :big: :big: :big:


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 7, 2009)

Jerry--I believe you are right. By positioning things correctly, the ball turner should be able to turn a concave depression in a disc.---brian


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## Kermit (Jan 7, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Jerry--I believe you are right. By positioning things correctly, the ball turner should be able to turn a concave depression in a disc.---brian



I knew I was right about that! But I guess it takes a well known member to say it before it gets heard.


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## Cedge (Jan 7, 2009)

ROFL..... 
You guys aren't not much on taking things on faith. Yes... you can cut definitely a concave, if the cutter is positioned forward of the pivot. I cut a concave into the replacement hand wheel for my little 7 x 14 lathe, just that way. The concave begins at the bottom of a 1/2 inch bored cut, so that the the wheel has a heavy rim. The cutter had to extend fairly deep into the well to make the cut, which is where the adjustable reach of a HSS cutter is a nice option.

Steve


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## artrans (Jan 7, 2009)

Lets get serious for a few seconds you no it not as easy as it looks to get a perfect ball.
it seems many other odd sharpe come though before the ball but it could be me and problemly is so I will shut up and go back to being silent. I have some cad drawings to piss me off. ;D ;D


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## Captain Jerry (Jan 7, 2009)

Brian

I wasn't clear. I did not mean cutting a concave depression in the face. I was talking about turning a round rim, like a tire, on the edge of the disk, like a handwheel or a torrus. See the attached quick and dirty drawing for the setup I was proposing.

Jerry 

View attachment Handwheel.pdf


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## Captain Jerry (Jan 7, 2009)

Brian

It would be so much easier to express myself to others if I had a copy of Solid Works and ten years to learn to use it.

Jerry


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## Cedge (Jan 7, 2009)

Jerry
A Torus can be cut, with a bit of preparation. Its a wee bit tricky since the cutter has to enter the bore of the work piece. Not likely with the indexed cutters, but HSS can be made to do it.

Steve


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 7, 2009)

Okay Jerry--I see what you mean, and yes, you could probably do that too. I have worked all day, and succesfully made 2 peices. At this rate, if I could sell ball turners for $600 each I'd go into business. ;D ;D. I've been designing machinery for 44 years, and its only in the last year that I have began to realize how long it takes to make even the simplest part. My apologies to every machinist that I ever asked "Whats taking you so long??"


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## putputman (Jan 7, 2009)

When I was on the bench, this kinda the way we looked at designers :'(

THE CRAFTY DRAFTSMAN

The designer sat at his drafting board
A wealth of knowledge in his head was stored
Like, "What can be done with a radial drill
Or a turret-lathe or a vertical mill?"
But above all things a knack he had
Of driving gentle machinists mad.
So he mused, as he thoughtfully scratched his bean,
Just how can I make this thing hard to machine?
If I make the body perfectly straight,
The job had ought to come out first rate.
But 'twould be so easy to turn and bore,
That it would never make a machinist sore.
So I'll make a compound taper there,
And a couple of angles to make them swear.
But that's too easy to work, I fear,
So just to make the machinist squeal,
I'll make him mill it from tungsten-steel.
And I'll put those holes that hold the cap,
Down underneath where they can't be tapped.
Now if they can make this, it'll just be luck,
Cause it can't be held by dog or chuck.
It can't be planed and it can't be ground,
So I feel that my design is unusually sound.
And as he finished, he shouted in glee, 
SUCCESS AT LAST!!
This gosh damn thing can't even be cast.


 Then after a few years I was one!! ;D


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 7, 2009)

Very good Putputman---I haven't seen that one before.


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## joeby (Jan 7, 2009)

Here's a little something that you might consider adding to your ball turner.

 We do a lot of form grinding at work on mold tooling. One of the wheel dressers is a knockoff of a J&S brand for doing radii and tangent angles. The interesting part of the J&S is how you set the radius.
http://www.jstool.com/fseries.htm

 If you take a look at the dresser, you'll notice two pins along the side of the slide, one vertical and one horizontal. All you need to set the radius is a micrometer, or gage block stack.

 The directions on setting the radius are on their site too, http://www.jstool.com/instructions.htm.

 Maybe something along those lines would be an advantage, seem doable since most of the ball turners I've seen are kind of the same setup as the wheel dresser.

 Just a thought.

Kevin


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 7, 2009)

Thanks Joeby---That looks like a good idea.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 8, 2009)

Progress is being made. The base is finished and mounted. The handle seems to clear everything okay when swung thru its full arc. I am not really crazy about having the thread that moves the cross slide exposed the way things set, but that will not keep the ball turner from functioning properly. I may get bold later on and drill and tap the top of the cross slide so that the ball turner sets closer to the back of the lathe, but first I want to finish the ball turner and make a ball succesfully.


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## artrans (Jan 8, 2009)

Looks like the first ball will be for that handle on the ball maker great job at least you get things done. I seem to analyze to much I think I should just git r done :big: :big:


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 8, 2009)

Well, we're just about ready to rock and roll!!! Please excuse my weird assortment of bolts. I have 8 million bolts in my junk drawer, and every damn one of them is different!! I do seem to be able to get the full range of movement required with the ball turner. That peice in the 3 jaw chuck is "Peter Pointer", a peice of 3/8" dia. rod I use for finding center punch marks in my mill. I just stuck it in their to show you the height of my cutting tool in the ball turner. And yes, the jaws on the chuck do clear everything as they rotate. In normal use for making balls, the ball turner will never set up this close to the chuck anyways. Now I'm off to make my first ball. If you hear a crash and a scream, pray for me! ;D ;D


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## artrans (Jan 8, 2009)

two things brian i like the way you did the tool bit holder and also nice bolts where can I find some just like them the red ones really give it a good look.;D just being a wise ass. looks good. I see governor balls by the thosands you will be the sites ball master


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 8, 2009)

I had a 1" diameter peice of aluminum, and I wanted a 1" diameter ball with a 1/2" diameter shank, about 3/16" long, so this was how I prepared the peice.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 8, 2009)

Hot Damn!!! This thing works just like DividedHead said it would. I felt a little skitty, cutting while holding the handle in my hand instead of having the cutting tool locked in a toolpost, but it didn't try to get away from me or anything. Its not quite as easy as DividedHead makes it look in his video, but its not difficult either. I suppose that once a person has used it a few times, it would seem quite easy.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 8, 2009)

So---Here's the finished ball turner, with its newly made ball on the handle. Something I did learn, is that its nearly impossible to make the ball with an extended collar on it first, then try to figure out a way to chuck it to drill and tap the internal thread afterwords. I managed a "workaround" to do it, but the next time I will cut the stock to the length I want, drill and tap it first, then mount it on a threaded peice of stock to make the ball. I am very happy with the way it turned out. I will not be posting a video on it, as that is nicely handled by DividedHead. It is not a difficult tool to make, once you figure out all the parameters that dictate the dimensions used to build it. I hope you enjoyed the post---it gave me something to do for a couple of days anyways. now I have to seriously start beating the bushes and find an engineering contract.---Brian


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## T70MkIII (Jan 8, 2009)

That's a great project and very informative thread, Brian. Thanks for sharing.


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## tel (Jan 8, 2009)

_Something I did learn, is that its nearly impossible to make the ball with an extended collar on it first, then try to figure out a way to chuck it to drill and tap the internal thread afterwords. I managed a "workaround" to do it, but the next time I will cut the stock to the length I want, drill and tap it first, then mount it on a threaded peice of stock to make the ball._

I've made up a couple of dedicated mandrels to do just that - 6 & 8 mm, which accommodate most of my needs - no doubt I'll add to 'em as the need arises.


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## lathe nut (Jan 8, 2009)

Thanks Brian, you sure put rumors to rest about turning a ball, you have made it look so simple to build and to do, I think now I will have to live to be 800 years just to do your projects, hope work picks up for you but sure is good for us, thanks again, Lathe Nut


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## Cedge (Jan 9, 2009)

Brian
Now.... just to drive you a little crazy....LOL. Here is one of my favorite tools for ball turning. It cuts tangentially across the top of the work piece and from start to finish is about 5 minutes of cutting. It really doesn't need preparatory cutting, since it moves metal like a banshee. Mine needs to be fitted to my new tool post but I played with it a few minutes ago and yup... still one of my favs.

See one here.... *http://members.optusnet.com.au/moreshedstuff/BallTurner.html*

Steve


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## shred (Jan 9, 2009)

Cedge  said:
			
		

> Brian
> Now.... just to drive you a little crazy....LOL. Here is one of my favorite tools for ball turning. It cuts tangentially across the top of the work piece and from start to finish is about 5 minutes of cutting. It really doesn't need preparatory cutting, since it moves metal like a banshee. Mine needs to be fitted to my new tool post but I played with it a few minutes ago and yup... still one of my favs.
> 
> See one here.... *http://members.optusnet.com.au/moreshedstuff/BallTurner.html*
> ...


I made one of those out of a boring head and boring-bar QCTP holder a while back. Works ok, but mine has a bit too much slop in it. Setting it up takes a little thinking about as well, but at least it drops onto the QCTP...  I'm not sure it'll do concave though.


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## artrans (Jan 9, 2009)

I have one like that also no luck chatters bad for me and it seems there is a learning curve to that style for me anyway


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## Brian Rupnow (May 22, 2010)

wla421  said:
			
		

> Hi all.
> 
> informative thread here!!
> 
> ...



If you read through this entire post, it has a complete set of plans I drew when I made the ball turner that is described in this post.?????????????---Brian


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## Omnimill (May 24, 2010)

Great post Brian, many thanks. I've long been thinking of making one of these but been put off as my lathe didn't have any T slots either. Well done that man Thm:

Vic.


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## radfordc (May 28, 2010)

I completed my ball turner tonight and turned the first obligatory ball for the handle. Works great. Thanks for the inspiration.

Charlie


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## ttrikalin (May 28, 2010)

karma to you Sir,
wonderful post.

t


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 2, 2011)

Time for me to revive this ancient thread!!! I haven't made a ball with it since the one shown in my last post, on the handle. Now I have to make a 1 1/2" dia. brass ball for my hit and miss engine "load device" that I am working on.


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