# Hit me - Miss me?



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Well it's been a week since M10 burst into life. Thanks for all of your remarks in that thread. :bow:

I cleaned and oiled the lathe, stripped the mill down and was pleasantly surprised by the minimal amount of grundge under the tables and on the feed screws. Oiled and greased it up and put it back together. The floor under the benches and machine tables was another matter, I retrieved 10 kg of metal muck and mess from these areas. :

So what's next - the Hit and Miss Engine my daughter gave me the plans for. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





After a week without taking photos and thinking how to caption them.... I was bored so here we go yet again.

The Idiots Guide to Hitting and Missing.






A hunt around revealed a lack of suitable sized material for major components such as flywheels and crankshafts. Up to this point I hadn't fully appreciated how big this model is. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




This resulted in some serious grovelling at my mates shipyard to obtain some 3/4" and 5/8" plate for the flywheels and crankshaft. Plate no problem but more grovelling to get it flame cut to manageable sizes. ;D ;D

The major lumps.






I decided to make a start on the base components.


And now photobucket is down so I will finish this later.

Photobucket is back up so on with the show. :

Making a right angle datum on base piece 1 for marking out/off.






Base1 ready for shaping.






Shaping base1.






Best Regards
Bob


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## NickG

Bob,

Really looking forward to this one. It is my favourite type of i.c. engine without a doubt. I had been known to stand at the ropes watching these things for hours at shows from about the age of 10! They are mesmorising.

I will definitely build 1 at some point!

Nick


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## rake60

I too am looking forward to watching this one come together Bob!

Rick


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## jthulin

That's an impressive pile of "lumps" . Can't wait to see this one develop!


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## Maryak

Nick, Rick and Jeff,

Thanks guys for the "kick off" :bow: 

Best Regards
Bob


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## ozzie46

Looking forward to another machining tutorial goldmine. :big:

 Ron


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## 90LX_Notch

All is right with the world once more!  woohoo1 There is a Maryak build to tune into everyday. Excellent! th_wav


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## cobra428

OK Bob,
Now I can tune in too, Same Bat time Same Bat channel Rof} Did you clean up under the benches? You know you'll drop a small part and it will dive into the muk under there stickpoke

Tony


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## Maryak

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Looking forward to another machining tutorial goldmine. :big:
> Ron



Ron, Thanks for you kind words and support. :bow:



			
				90LX_Notch  said:
			
		

> All is right with the world once more!  woohoo1 There is a Maryak build to tune into everyday. Excellent! th_wav



Thanks 90LX_N, You've just "Made my Day".



			
				cobra428  said:
			
		

> OK Bob,
> Now I can tune in too, Same Bat time Same Bat channel Rof} Did you clean up under the benches? You know you'll drop a small part and it will dive into the muk under there stickpoke
> 
> Tony



Thanks Tony, Yep I managed to crawl under everything. I hate 6BA nuts disappearing into the mud, blood and beer. I am amazed at the speed they become invisible.  

Got a little more done today.

As the base is a fabricate and weld item, I put away mikes and verniers and settled for good old split the line. 

Final Cut Base 1.






Completed Base 1.






Base 2 x 2 Ready for marking off.






Best Regards
Bob


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## PhillyVa

Well well :bow: Bob's little engine factory :bow: ...look'n good already. I'm putting in an rental suite in the basement. Been working in fits and starts as energy permits. I need some cash flow...disability cheques not enough....dam-it. :rant:

Regards

Philly


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## Maryak

Philly,

Thanks :bow:

Yep, those of us on government benefits have to find ways to keep our heads above water - I hope it works well for you.

Best Regards
Bob


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## RobWilson

Hi Bob,that looks a big engine ;D is the base a welded or bolted construction ?
Rob


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## Maryak

Rob,

The base is an all welded construction. You've just reminded me I need to buy some more disks for my angle grinder.  

I once heard it said that the only difference between a bad welder and a good welder is a good angle grinder - need I say more. :

I have been pondering how best to get a decent profile on Base pieces #2. ??? ???

My solution was to draw them in CAD and using all those wonderful snaps and curves and things profile it out.

I ended up with this.






The idea is to glue this to some sheet metal, carefully cut it out and scribe around the curves onto the base pieces.

Best Regards
Bob


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## RobWilson

sounds like a plan Bob, just out of interest how long are the sides your going to profile?
Rob


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## jthulin

Maryak  said:
			
		

> I once heard it said that the only difference between a bad welder and a good welder is a good angle grinder - need I say more. :



Yes, and that a welders best friend is the painter :big:


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## Maryak

Rob,

The wrecked tangle is 5" x 2 1/2" - for our EASL friends rectangle. Aussie humour ??? ???

jthulin,

Bugger, you've found another thing I'm hopeless at. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak

Not much to report, got my template made and alas my bandsaw won't cut that thick. 

Ah well, angle grinder, mill and hand filing. :'(

The profile template.






Best Regards
Bob


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## jthulin

Had a story about hand filing related to me just the other day. Something to the effect that the fellow recalled his first day in vocational school when he was instructed to square up a block of steel about 3" x 4" x 5" with nothing but a file. After a few hours the instructor inspected each students work and tossed each piece in the scrap bin as he went. When asked why he was discarding such an investment in time and effort, he said that the only reason for the exercise was to evaluate the students work ethic. As you can imagine, a large percent of them kicked, screamed and complained the whole way through. Spoke volumes...


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## PhillyVa

jthulin,

Same thing happened to me in my final year...Instructor says here I'll show you something and then runs my gauge through the rolls with my saw and boom...he says ooooops...I say well that's a pass...he says fix it. stickpoke There ya go another day in trade school. had it fixed in an hour only because I had made three gauges and had a spare.

Oh don't want to steal the thread.

Keep up the good work :bow: Bob. :bow:

Regards

Philly


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## the engineer

hi had this same engine on my bench for some months fellow that made it couldnt get compression enough to fire
made new piston and bored the cly round and straight great fun when its all one complete block assy
but good news ran for six hours a day at an engine show 
now i cant play with it its gone home to its owner :'(
it takes about 30mins or longer to bring the water to boiling point
 i ran it on a model aircraft carb sure run good as a throttler
good luck on the build


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## Maryak

Jeff and Philly,

Hand filing is an art, I had 2 problems, our instructor was a complete and utter arthole and I'm no artist.

The Engineer,

Thanks for your support and inside info on this engine. :bow:

Today's progress report.

Setup to mill the relevant flat bits.












Filing the 1st compound curve - for those who are new to filing - a good finish is achieved by using a smooth file, with the teeth filled with blackboard chalk. Usually the smaller the file the smaller the teeth. In my files I go from 10" to 4" in 3 cuts, bastard, second cut and smooth. In this case the finish was with a 6" half round smooth file. The file must be free of any metal trapped in the teeth, (remove them with an old scriber point), It must also be cleaned regularly using a file card, ( a flat say, 1 1/2" x 4" wire brush with the bristles finely spaced, about 1/4" high). Lastly the final filing is done using draw filing, i.e. the file is held parallel to the body with a hand on each side and drawn back and forth on the work.






The 1st compound curve completed.






The 2nd compound curve completed.






Base piece 2 - 2off.






Have a great day.

Best Regards
bob


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## RobWilson

Looking mighty fine Bob keep the photos coming ;D
Rob


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## 90LX_Notch

Bob,

I always learn something from you. I did not know about the chalk trick.  :bow: :bow:

Bob


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## mklotz

Instead of a file card and scriber to remove "pins" from the file, take a (spent) rifle cartridge or length of brass tubing, pound the end flat and use that to scrape in a direction parallel to the file teeth. The brass will quickly form "teeth" that match the pitch of the file teeth and sweep out any pins without dulling the file.


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## Maryak

Rob and Bob,

Thanks for the kind words and support.

Marv,

Thanks for the tip about de-pinning a file. Gun control makes cartridge cases scarce in Oz, but brass tubing is easy. On the subject of brass and files, when you get a new file it is a good idea to beak it in by filing a lump of brass before tackling steel.

Managed a couple more pieces today.

Squaring up Base Piece 3 - 2 off.











Cutting off the corners by offsetting the hacksaw.






Milling the corners - light cuts were the order of the day due to the huge overhang from the vice.






Completed Base Piece 3 - 2 off






Completed Base Piece 5.






Yes, I can count   Base Piece 4 is 3 round buttons welded on the bottom. I'm not sure I like them and I think I want a better hold down system. Could be a while as I must think about it. : :

Next comes welding these pieces together which will be interesting to say the least. Stay tuned and stand by for heaps of sympathy and moral boosting.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak

Hi,

Well, I'm p#$$ed and amazed.   

The basis of the base is welded. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	














Whats even more amazing is its pretty square. ;D ;D

Best Regards
Bob


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## dparker

Hello Maryak: Your build series is very good and interesting to me to see how other people get things done. 
I built this model over 20 years ago and made a few mistakes that if you don't look too close are not very noticeable, especially if you do not have the plans to compare the engine to. It was a slow build for me, as every one is, but I felt the plans were very good and I just made " one piece at a time' and at the end of construction it was time for vacation. I did not have it running yet but my Dad collected old farm engines and rebuilt them, so I took the model with us and he and I had a good time playing with it until we got the timing correct and had it running.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSCMQyLOpiQ[/ame]
This engine is a good runner and I just showed it to a couple of homeschooled kids and got it started fairly easily (first run in over 10 years) in front of everyone much to my surprise. All in all a fun build.
Good Luck with your build.
don


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## arnoldb

That's coming along nicely Bob 

Nice job on the filing on the bases Thm: - I do NOT envy you that job!!!

Sorry for the silly question - that's an awkward piece to clamp for welding - how did you do it ? ???

Also, at the risk of sounding completely daft :-[ - would the inside corners of the base be visible when the engine is finished ? - if not, would inside welds be an option ?

I just love checking in on your updates - truly inspirational ! :bow:

Regards, Arnold


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## Maryak

dparker  said:
			
		

> Good Luck with your build.
> don



Thanks Don, for you inspiration and support - that's a lovely engine and I hope mine looks and runs at least a little like yours. :bow: :bow:



			
				arnoldb  said:
			
		

> Sorry for the silly question - that's an awkward piece to clamp for welding - how did you do it ? ???
> 
> Also, at the risk of sounding completely daft :-[ - would the inside corners of the base be visible when the engine is finished ? - if not, would inside welds be an option ?



Arnold,

You got that right is was difficult to hold. I used angle iron with a solid block clamped inside and tacked the 2 side pieces to the larger end piece using this jig. Several judicious taps with a hammer and a square, plus checks along the sides with a ruler for parallel. Next I added the other end piece and got it sitting together on top of the vice. Grabbed one of the truck drivers, (halfway through his coffee), and got him to steady it whilst I did a couple of vertical down tacks on the loose end. Checked for square again and welded it up by holding the long over hang end in the vice adjusting for the easiest weld position.

I thought about inside welds but decided that they would be visible and if I made a mess of them, clean up would be difficult.

Thanks for your kind words and support. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## putputman

> Well, I'm p#$$ed and amazed.



I'm am amazed you are p#$$ed. ??? ??? ??? 
It looks great to me. After following your builds, I have no doubts this one will turn out great.


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## steamer

Looking great to me Bob!

Wish I could weld.......ah yes another item on the list.

....and I owe you a photo!  hehehehehe.


Dave


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## rake60

Alright Bob, enough teasing already.
I want to see this puppy running!

Seriously, 
I'm loving every update of this build!
Keep them coming!

Rick


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## Maryak

putputman  said:
			
		

> I'm am amazed you are p#$$ed. ??? ??? ???
> It looks great to me. After following your builds, I have no doubts this one will turn out great.



Thanks Arv, :bow:

Oz humour has me in trouble again. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




It means I wet myself with happiness over a job that turned out good.

Dave,

Thanks. :bow: What photo ??? ???

Buy a cheap stick welder, go to the scrap yard and start electrically glueing bits together. It's not rocket science but it's a knack that only practice, practice and more practice will give you a good result. (Never buy a steel boat welded by an amateur, only half of it will be soundly welded, the other half was learning to weld.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




)

Thanks Rick, :bow: :bow:

Love the humour, keep it coming.  ;D  ;D 

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak

End of the week and only a little done today  

Set up to machine the underside of the base.






The base is on parallel strips. You can pay a lot of money for these, or you can buy square HSS in various sizes and lengths, it is accurately ground and relatively cheap.

The underside completed.






Hope you have a good weekend

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer

A full size hit and miss engine that is very similar to your model

6" bore x 10" stroke....about 3600 lbs

It was my Dad's.....It entertains my kids now.


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## AlanHaisley

Bob,

How did you hold that base upside down like that? It looks like you are clamped on the sloping sides and I'd think that it wouldn't hold. Is there a clamping trick here that is just not visible in the photos?

Alan


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## ozzie46

AlanHaisley  said:
			
		

> Bob,
> 
> How did you hold that base upside down like that? It looks like you are clamped on the sloping sides and I'd think that it wouldn't hold. Is there a clamping trick here that is just not visible in the photos?
> 
> Alan



 Thats got me wondering too. scratch.gif scratch.gif scratch.gif

  Ron


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## Maryak

Alan and Ron,

No tricks just very light cuts. I was nervous but I could not move it by hand before starting machining.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak

Hi Again,

Another week slips into the history books and on the home front the honey dos are piling up as we get ready to put our unit on the market.

Managed a little do for me this morning and the rain has beaten me on half of the honey do this arvo, (Phew).

Test fit of the side pieces to the base after machining everything square






Marking our base piece 6 which contains the cylinder and water jacket locators.






Drilling the cylinder location hole.






Boring out the cylinder hole to final size.






See yu-all tomorrow.

Best Regards
Bob


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## RobWilson

Bob that base is coming along great ,going to be a cool looking engine :bow:


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## Maryak

Rob,

Thanks for the kind words and support.

Well, we almost have a firm base on which to sally forth.  :

Base piece 6 completed.







The base welded together - (My angle grinder is at home for honey dos so you have to suffer a look at my welds. 






Squaring up after welding.






Machining the bearing housing cut aways.






That's All Folks.

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer

That's starting to come together here.  Whats the bore and stroke on her?

Dave


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## cobra428

Hey Bob,
Looking good. Man, do you have some filing in your future!
Tony


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## Maryak

Dave,

Thanks for your interest 1.125" bore and 1.5" stroke.

Tony,

Yes I see a fair bit of filing in my future. I will remove as much as I can with the angle grinder. 

I have just read about flap discs for angle grinders. Has anybody used them and if so are they any good ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## PhillyVa

Bob,

I use a flapper on an pencil type grinder (industrial type size) and they work OK then after for a finer Finnish you can use a fiber type (Velcro type) disk. You can rub with a fiber pad if you like but, it's more fun with a motor on it...I think.

Keep up the great work.

Regards

Philly


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## gjn

Bob

I use the flap wheels on my 4" & 5" grinders often. They give a much better finish than the normal wheels and don't heat the metal up as much. Well worth a try.

Rgds - Gavin


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## seagar

Hi Bob,before I retired I spent 6 years doing pannel repairs to old tractors being restored and I found flapper discs great.They come in a variety of grades and are good for rough removal of metal and for reasonable fine finishing.

I would recomend them to anyone that has an angle grinder and is fabrecrating in metal.

Ian(seagar)


Coffs Harbour
Australia.


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## Maryak

Philly, Gavin and Ian,

Thanks for your responses re flapper discs. :bow: :bow: :bow: I will now go and try to buy some.

Best Regards
Bob


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## joe d

Bob

The flapper type discs are also available in several configurations for dremel sized tools. Can be quite useful for cleaning up small stuff.

Cheers, Joe


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## Maryak

Joe,

Thanks for the tip. I bought one for the angle grinder today and I was amazed at the speed with which it eats steel and the finish is not bad either. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Here's a few shots of the engine base, when it comes to bling, some dudicious use of plasti-bond to disguise my poor welding and it should look reasonable. ??? ??? ???

The Base ready for the addition of the bearing blocks which are also welded.





















Marking out and centreing the cylinder for turning between centres.











And that's it from him.

Best Regards
Bob


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## gjn

Bob

Man you work fast, can't wait till I'm semi-retired so I can get a decent go at the machines.

I was thinking of making one of these as well so I'll watch progress with great interest,

Rgds - Gavin up in the hills


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## cobra428

Hey Bob,
Very Nice :bow:
Tony


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## Maryak

Gavin and Tony,

Thanks for your continued support and interest.

Best Regards
Bob


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## roadrage17

ive been following this build , coming along very nicely . 
it will look really nice when finished good luck.

best regards roadrage


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## Maryak

RR17,

Thanks for your support and interest.

Busy doing clean up today getting ready for selling our unit.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak

Wow,

Was that a loooooong weekend. Removing and cleaning 12 years of accumulated come in handy items, (rubbish). Not to mention the valuable moving of new house items to my daughters 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







It was good to get back in the shop for a rest. ;D

Made some progress on the cylinder today.

Turning the cylinder between centres.






Trial fit in the base.






Setting the length.






Ready for boring undersize before soldering on the end plates.






And then home for the final clean up of the carport. Maybe the car will fit now : :

Best Regards
Bob


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## gjn

Bob

It's looking good so far, did you touch up the taper on the MT5 centre in the headstock before turning the cylinder or have you used the centre as it came from the factory? 

Rgds - Gavin


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## Maryak

Gavin,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

The headstock centre is as supplied. I have found that tailstock alignment with our lathe is not all that brilliant and seems to move each time its' postion is changed along the bed. When you look at the fact that it's only relying on the sides of the bed and stock it's not too surprising but can be a trap for the unwary. A clock gauge sorts it out in a couple of cuts.

Just thought I'd mention it in case you are contemplating between centre parallel turning. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## joe d

Bob

Looking good ! I've got to learn the welding bit so I can do fabrications. An aside: is that HMAS Melbourne swimming along in your new avatar? Fine looking ship. 

Cheers Joe


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## Maryak

Joe,

Thanks for your support. :bow:

In my day Melbourne was a Majestic Class Aircraft Carrier and I was lucky enough to spend a year as flight deck engineer chucking off and catching aircraft, very interesting job but I doubt the nerves could stand it now, gets a little hairy with some of the young bold pilots and the oceans 70' down, hell of a drop at 25 knots. I think we are shaving with her now.

Then came the FFG - Melbourne. Also gone to the razor blade factory.

And the avatar is the Steel Cat, the Fighting 41, HMAS Brisbane, a DDG, built by Defoe in Bay City Michigan in 1966-67. My favourite ship of all in which I served and I had 2 stints in her. Shes been sunk as a dive site as have her sisters Hobart and Perth.

Best Regards
Bob


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## jthulin

Maryak, I was thinking that the base looks a bit like a sleigh (you know, like the one Santa Claus flies around in), but with the addition of the cylinder, it looks more like a rocket powered sleigh :big:

You are making nice progress :bow:


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## Maryak

Jeff,

How right you are, perhaps we can utilise it for astronaut training all we need is wheels, rails and gunpowder. ;D

Today saw the cylinder drilled out to 1" and the cylinder end plates started.

Drilling out the cylinder bore.







Squaring and sizing the cylinder end plates.











The end plates must be bored to accept the cylinder to which they are silver soldered. Having decided to bore them in the lathe with a face plate, I needed a method to keep them together during set up. This is an adaptation of holding large flat lumps on the milling machine table. PVA glue and paper.
















Have a happy day.

Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb

Great progress Bob!

I've used CA glue like that but what is PVA, and is the sand paper for glue retention?

Thanks,

Kevin.


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## Jasonb

PVA would be a white wood glue such as Elmers to you. The paper (not sand paper) helps the two come apart as it literally splits down the middle. A little warm water and a scotch Brite pad will remove the glue and paper fibres. The glue/paper method is used a lot in woodturning for split spindles etc.

Jason


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## Maryak

Kevin,

Jason explained it much better than I could have and for clearing up the cross continent terminology. Now to clear it up a bit more what's CA glue. ???

Thank you both for your interest and support.

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428

Maryak,
CA Glue is cynoacylic also know as crazy glue! Tuff -to get off metal neatly. Did you ever try 2 sided tape? Sticky both sides and thin!
Tony


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## Maryak

Thanks Tony, :bow:

I think we call it super glue. ???

The double sided tape I have seen here has a layer of foam about 1/16" thick between the 2 faces so I went for the old proven method. I must see if I can find some ds tape without the foam packing.

Best Regards
Bob


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## joe d

Maryak  said:
			
		

> The double sided tape I have seen here has a layer of foam about 1/16" thick between the 2 faces so I went for the old proven method. I must see if I can find some ds tape without the foam packing.



Bob:

I've gotten some without the extra foam from a local carpet merchant, they use it in full-fitted installations. Trophy and awards suppliers/engravers use it for sticking the little tally plates on the U-Done-Good statues as well. 

Joe


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## cobra428

Hey Bob,
I just happen to have some here :big: It's a Scotch (3M) product (no #) that I picked up at the Big Box Office store. Don't know if you have them, Office Max or Staples. Good luck in your quest ;D
Tony

http://www.officemax.com/catalog/sku.jsp?productId=ARS24093&history=67wor5fp|prodPage~15^freeText~two+sided+tape^paramValue~true^refine~1^region~1^param~return_skus^return_skus~Y

Don't worry it really isn't permanent


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## arnoldb

Maryak  said:
			
		

> I think we call it super glue. ???



Bob, you are correct, CA is superglue, and also known as crazy glue.

And I found an easy way to get it off  - If Mrs Maryak will allow you to raid her cosmetics collection ;D , get some nail polish remover. (This is normally acetone based) A piece of paper liberally soaked with the stuff, hold it against the glue for a couple of second to soften, and it wipes right off.

And nice progress on your engine as well :bow:

Regards, Arnold


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## Maryak

Joe and Tony,

Thanks for the tips on where to start looking. :bow: :bow:

Arnold thanks for confirming that for me. :bow:

There was another reason I elected not to use this product and that is its' rapid setting time. 

Had I thought ahead a little and realised I wanted to line bore the 2 plates I would have joined them with crazy/super glue before I started milling them to size. I needed a longer glue set time to make sure I put them back together as milled : hence some slippage was desirable to mate the edges. (There's no fool like a more adolescent mature fool).



Thanks to all 3 of you for your help and support. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## cobra428

Hi Bob,
Arnoldb is right about the nail polish remover, it will soften the glue. There are many forms of CA glue. Thin, Medium and Thick viscosity. Thin will set in seconds, thick will take longer (45 sec). They also sell an accelerator for it. Its a spray that will set any CA instantly. A trip back to the place you bought the prop for Maryak 10 will have all of those items!
Tony


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## Majorstrain

Hi Bob,
Another source for the thin tape would be card making and scrap-booking stores. Also "SPOT LIGHT" stocks it as well. (A fabric come all things hobby for the ladies store here in WA, not sure if it's on your side of the island though.)

Cheers
Phil


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## Maryak

Tony ,

I have access to acetone so Galina is saved from a raiding party.

Phil,

Yes we have Spotlight, it's where I go for my needle valve stems, (darning needles). Get all sorts of odd looks from the clientele as I stand there with my 0-1" micrometer measuring the needles. : ;D ;D I go with Galina and while she is making material selections for curtains for the new house, I sneak away and do my trick.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Majorstrain

> Yes we have Spotlight, it's where I go for my needle valve stems, (darning needles). Get all sorts of odd looks from the clientele as I stand there with my 0-1" micrometer measuring the needles. : ;D ;D



Thanks for the tip on the needle valve stems, I'll file that in the To Be Used Later box (TUBL box).
I usually rock up to Spotlight after work on my motorcycle. I've over heard a few comments behind me while in line. Helmet in one hand and VIP card in the other. ;D

Phil


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## kustomkb

Thanks for the tips and clarification,

I don't know where i got "sand" paper from :


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## Maryak

Hi All,

The glue seems to have worked. ;D

Dragged out the faceplate and started to mount the plates on it using parallels under so I could go straight to the rotary table for rounding the ends.

Alas none of my T nuts fit the slots in the faceplate, neither do any of my Unbrako bolts. Ordinary bolts required machining of the heads to fit the slot so....... if I am going to have to machine something it might as well be T nuts and I will have them for future faceplate work.

That's where I'm at, hence no pictures, (one T nut looks much like another).

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak

Hi,

As threatened in the shout box, I did manage to make some progress today with the engine, having completed the side track into T nutting.

Setting up the cylinder end plates for boring.






Pre-drilling the bore.






Bore boring, (not quite a stutter :).






Test fitting the cylinder.






Set up in the rotary table to round the base.






I tried both using the end and using the side of the mill settled on the side as I got quite a neat finish on the climb milled return feed.






The bits so far.






Now to split them and solder/braze them to the cylinder.

Thanks to all the discussion and advise in Paolo's "My Own Engine" thread, I realise I need a bigger burner for my LPG torch. BOC gases looks like the go as they sell primus gear which is what I inherited from dear old dad.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb

That's coming along nicely Bob. Your build is definitely not "boring" 

Regards, Arnold


----------



## steamer

Nice faceplate set up Bob!

Nice build!

Dave


----------



## kvom

I'm wondering why you did the boring on the lathe rather than the mill. Of course, if you don't have a boring head that would be the answer.


----------



## cobra428

Looking Good Bob. That's shaping up to be a nice size engine
Tony


----------



## NickG

Nice 1 Bob, starting to resemble an engine now! :big:


----------



## roadrage17

Loooking Niceeeeeee :bow: 

Best regards RR17


----------



## Maryak

Arnold, Dave, kvom, Tony, Nick and RR17,

Thanks guys for your kind words and support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:



			
				kvom  said:
			
		

> I'm wondering why you did the boring on the lathe rather than the mill. Of course, if you don't have a boring head that would be the answer.



My main reason was I could achieve a much more accurate set up to the centre of the bore using the lathe and the equipment I have to hand. I have a boring head but it's no-where near as stable as a boring bar in the lathe and I can use power feed whereas it's by hand in the mill. After boring, transfer the face plate to the rotary table to mill the OD, hoping that, all things being equal, there was a reasonable chance, they would be concentric.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb

Coming along really swell there Bob!!

Is your lathe quite heavy? I had a set-up like that on mine and started it in high gear by mistake.

First time I ever hit the E-stop on a machine before. Thought it was going to walk right out the door.

What RPM did you run her at?

Thanks.

-Kevin.


----------



## Maryak

Kevin,

Thanks for your interest and support. :bow:

My lathe is 230 kg. It started the hippy hippy shakes at 350rpm so I slowed it to 200rpm and all was OK. The finish cuts I took at 120rpm. There was no room for any counter weights.

Yep, too fast and the sphincter/clacker valve tightens up real quick.

I remember a guy who set up an angle plate to machine the seat of a 3" bronze firemain valve on a faceplate. As brass/bronze likes to be machined at higher rpm he used some change wheels as a counter weight and had it nicely balanced. On starting up at 750rpm he had forgotten to fully tighten the counter weight. Out it flew, hit the lathe bed, shattered a 15" faceplate and proceeded to chase us around the shop. Quite exciting for a few seconds before the bits came to rest. The lathe was a bit of a mess, but the bigger mess was in his undies. At least no-body was hurt. From memory he received a months stoppage of leave and pay for his effort.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428

Bob Rof} Rof} Rof} Rof} Rof}
Tony


----------



## RobWilson

Looking great Bob :bow:
Rob


----------



## kustomkb

What tony said, except out loud. ;D


----------



## Maryak

Tony, Rob and Kevin,

Thanks :bow: glad you enjoyed my rambling. That's one of the fun things about being here, it jogs the memory. Whilst some of these are very funny, we are all very lucky they are not the other half of the comedy/tragedy equation.





Have you ever had one of those days ??? Well today was my turn.

On dismantling the face plate and rotary table, I noticed the table had developed a bit more backlash than I like. Thinks........ I'll fix it now,.......only take five minutes. On removing the handwheel, I dropped the drive key. Heard a ting as it hit the floor and that was that.
After a hour of fruitless searching, my blood pressure way exceeded most boilers test pressure, steam was coming from my ears and the air was blue. This did little to improve my eyesight and the key remains lost. After tea and a fag I decided I would make a new one.......only take five minutes......correct until you drop that one and can't find it either.

Key #3 was duly fashioned and the handwheel replaced.

Enough excitement for one day, having achieved a working RT with minimal backlash, it was time to quit whilst I was ahead.

Consolation prize.






Bigger burner for my LPG torch.

Have a great weekend.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## DavesWimshurst

Bob,
When I was building an engine needing some 3-48 (about 2.5 mm dia.) hex head screws I lost one under the bench. Made a replacement starting with round stock. Soon lost another. I must have made 8 or 9 over the course of two weeks. What finally worked was to make several at once. I think they got lonely and were looking for their companions in the dark corners of my shop. Of course now I have 3 or 4 left over ???
Dave


----------



## cobra428

Bob,
I think that story did more for safety than a lecture on it could. People remember a joke they where told 30 years ago but can't remember what they had for lunch yesterday!
So, from now on, everytime I put something odd in a chuck or face plate, I'll think of Bob's hippy hippy shake story, have a chuckle and check everything 2, 3 times before I reach for the power switch. I hate soiling my undies :big:
Tony


----------



## Jack

Do what I do when I buy some 2-56 set screws and or the allen wrench that fits them. We are talking tiny and black, When I first get home I paint them bright pink or yellow so that when I drop one of them it is a little easier to see and find it when I am on my hands and knees under the work bench. Or if you need 2, buy six its cheap insurance that you'll never need the extra ones.

Jack


----------



## putputman

Bob, I had a morning similar to yours. I dropped the little intake valve spring. There is no "ting" sound and like any good spring, it could bounce all over the room before it settles down. Finally found it amongst the steel chips and dirt. Decided to stop and sweep the entire shop so if it happened again, it would be easier to find. Believe or not, the next 2 times I dropped it, it was easier to find.


----------



## rudydubya

Bob and folks, don't know if it would help in your situations or not, but I have a little flashlight that I lay on the floor and roll around to help find my many lost parts. The flashlight shining across my concrete floor causes the little parts to cast a longer shadow and helps me find at least 50% of the stuff I'm hunting.  ;D

Looking good, Bob.

Rudy


----------



## Maryak

Dave, Tony, Jack, PPM and Rudy,

Thanks guys for your commiserations advise and support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

For my shop, the floor was pretty clean when I dropped key #1. I did sweep it all up and ran it through a sieve into the rubbish bin. No sign of the damn thing. Key #2 hit a, (relative term), clean floor and did the same disappearing act. Both times I used a lead light in the same manner as Rudy uses his flashlight. The Machine Shop Guru God was just having a day off or she's the Devil in Disguise. ;D

My shop floor is sheet steel over wood hence the term "TING" - more aptly "ting, plonk, plop" and from then on the silence was deafening,  except for my complete repertoire of foul language, (just to see if it would help). :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Another week goes by, soon the sun will start it's journey south, hows that for a fast 6 months.

Today's effort.

Setting up the end plate to drill the bolt holes.






Drilling the bolt holes.






Test fit. Lucky guess with the bolt holes non needed oversizing to make things fit. 






Setup for silver soldering.






Test Assembly after silver soldering.











Boy am I glad I took peoples advise and bought a bigger burner tip, as it was it was a struggle and I had to run the solder in steps.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Another day another dollar or a currency of your choosing. : Tanks got in the way today so minimal progress.

Setting up for final boring of the cylinder.






Boring the cylinder.






With the combined overhang of both the work and the boring bar I have been unable to stop chatter. My solution is to make a bigger boring bar which is half done. Just needs a couple of flats milled to allow clamping in the tool post. If I don't fix this I will be lapping till the cows come home.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Hi Bob,
Are you sure the chatter is the bar?....might be the over hang?......

That cylinder is only tied to the chuck via it's base....can you pack in those flanges with a temporary filler piece and clamp it up...like on a faceplate?........just an thought......

Looking good! Thm:

Dave


----------



## DavesWimshurst

Bob,
Could you mount your cylinder to the saddle of your lathe and use a between centers boring bar. Perhaps using an angle plate in place of the top slide? Those old "Model Engineer" magazines are always showing setups like that. Don't know if your lathe can do tricks like that.
Dave


----------



## gjn

Dave

I thought about that idea as well but Bob, like me, has an AL320G which for all it's good points does suffer because it has no tee slots on the saddle so short of drilling and tapping holes into the top of the saddle I doubt whether there's an easy way of doing that - which is a pity as it would solve the problem.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak

Dave S, Dave W, and Gavin,

Thanks for all the suggestions. We had a quick dash to Aldinga to see a man about a tile so no play today.

I will try the bigger bar 1st and then Dave (Steamers) packing pieces. I have already taped some shock absorber rag around the cylinder and will soak it in oil and see what happens hopefully tomorrow.

Best Regards
Bob

Edit - I could probably mount it from the tool post using a jig but they say that laziness is the first sign of genius and I certainly qualify for the 1st part.


----------



## Maryak

Blow me down one of the freight forwarders lost a 26000l tank.  Whats worse they insisted they had never seen it. 

Guess what, they actually loaded it on a ship and now it's on it's way to California. Only took 3 1/2 hours of phone calls visits and faxes to find it.

So this is a work in no progress. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

I can understand that, I'm always losing my 26000 litre tanks. Generally I have to look down the back of the workbench to find it. Suggest to the forwarders that they put a label on it next time so it stands out.


----------



## RobWilson

Great job Bob, looking good, very intersting post.
Regards Rob


----------



## Maryak

Gavin and Rob,

Thanks for your continued support and interest. :bow: :bow:

Well, for once I guessed correctly, the boring bar was the problem. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




A quick and dirty 3/4" boring bar.






The cylinder after boring.






Drilling the tapping hole for the cylinder lubricator pipe.






It's raining here today so no work outside guess I can have my Grandpa's afternoon nap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Have a UBEAUT weekend.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb

itsa beauty.

nice bore.


----------



## ariz

very nice work Maryak, I follow it with interest


----------



## steamer

Good to hear the simple fix solved it!....and you got another boring bar in the arsenal to boot!

Bore looks good!

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Kevin, Ariz and Dave,

Thanks guys for your continued support and help. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Hi Bob,

I can see that a hex bar is held in a vise...and I'm assuming it's 3/4" from what you said.

Could you tell us a little more about it? What makes it a boring bar? What you did to make it a boring bar? How you mounted and used it? I hope this isn't too newbie.

Thanks.


----------



## Maryak

No problems Zee,

I'll take a few boring pictures today and get back to you.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## bronson

Another great and interesting build. Engine is looking great.


----------



## Maryak

Zee boring bars for Zee programmer.

A selection of boring bars.






1. Commercially made with a small carbide insert silver soldered to the body.
2. Ground from a solid piece of HSS.

The rest are of various sizes. A couple have holes at right angles and a couple have oblique holes to provide for boring and facing when a specified depth, (or blind), bore is called for.

IMHO when boring the trick is to use the fattest shortest bar that will fit the hole + depth and leave a bit of room for the chips to escape, (The fish stay put).

Front and back view of a boring bar mounted in a 4 way tool post.











All my home made bars use round HSS from 1/8" - 3/8" dia and the HSS is secured in the bar by a grub screw at right angles to the hole for the tool.






Hope you found this useful.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Bronson,

Thanks for your continued support and interest. :bow:

Today saw the water jacket constructed.

Some sheet metal for the jacket.






The water jacket in place around the cylinder. I plan on leaving it like it is whilst I make a drilling jig for the head and cylinder interface. Hopefully it will develop a bit of shape memory, making it easier to solder.











Best Regards
Bob


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Zee boring bars for Zee programmer.
> A selection of boring bars.
> Hope you found this useful.



I did indeed! Thank you very much Bob.


----------



## Maryak

I guess the old saying, "The Miser Pays Twice," bit me today.

I could not find a piece 2 1/2" dia, but on hunting around I found a piece 1 1/4" x 4" x 10" so I hacked a lump a little over 2 1/2" square off it.

It cut OK in the hacksaw but when it came to machining it in the lathe, I had hells own job, pretty tough stuff. As we are not on a production schedule I persevered, but the jig will take quite some time to complete. Ah the joys of mystery metal.

The jig lump in the lathe.






Roughing out the cylinder spigot.






Fun Fun Fun.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## jthulin

Maryak  said:
			
		

> I guess the old saying, "The Miser Pays Twice," bit me today.



That saying rings true all too often. How often those simple little fixturing jobs grow into monsters with their own agenda :wall: I think I take them for granted sometimes, not concerned about making something for "keeps", probably not being too particular about all the tiny little details that make such a difference to the process...


----------



## Maryak

Hi, I'm back :

This past week has mostly been spent at home due to a nasty little gastro bug. After re-hydration and some fancy antibiotics, things are back to normal.

The jig is ready for drilling after almost 4 hours of fiddling. 

The jig mated to the cylinder.






Hacking off surplus bits.






Machining the major diameter to match the head.






Ready for marking out.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Nice to see you back on deck....


----------



## Maryak

Gavin,

Thanks for the sympathy vote. :bow:

I was going to finish the jig - until I realised I would have to tear down my mill vice set up for the rotary table. 

Soooooo...... decided to make a start on the crankshaft whilst the vice was ready.

Squaring up the crankshaft lump.







Marking out the crankshaft.






Drilling the centres.






The setup for sizing the webs.






Why this way ??? ??? ??? Well mainly because it gave me the opportunity to ensure and/or adjust the tailstock was true for parallel turning especially over such a nice long 8 3/4" length.

The crankshaft OD roughed out to past the crank webs.






Now or rather tomorrow back in the mill and an attack of the slitting saw to remove some of the excess and the middle of the webs.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob

That would have been "interesting" doing the interrupted cuts combined with the out-of-balance factor of the clamps - I assume very slow rpms and small depth of cut to nurse the HSS tool?

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak

Gavin,

Not too bad, 200 rpm and 0.040" depth of cut.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

I hate doing cranks too Gavin...for the same reasons....


Looking good Bob!.....what kind of counterweights does she have....seperate or one piece.....or any!.....many didn't.

I am off this week, and if it ever stops raining here, I'll snap a photo of my Dad's hit n miss....


----------



## rklopp

Please tell me you are not driving that blank between centers using that parallel clamp. I'd hate to have to pick that thing out of someone's brains. Egad.


----------



## Maryak

Dave,

I'm not a crankshaft fan but they make for an interesting life. :

rklopp,

Sorry but I did drive the plate that way. Probably what I should have done was take a picture of the mass of copper wire I used to bind everything together as well as through the tommy bar holes on the clamp to prevent them unscrewing.

More cranky moments. ;D

Milling out the webs.






Slitting away some of the excess.






Back in the lathe and the 1st cut using the RH tool.






About as far as I can or I want to go with that tool.






Now the LH tool.






When I have sized the web gap, I intend to use my parting tool rounded off to complete the journal.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## NickG

Bob,

Quite amazed with the crankshaft! I wouldn't have dared to try it that way but now I've seen you do it, I can see the benefits and might even try it on a lighter scale one day! 

Great work,

Nick


----------



## Maryak

Nick,

Thanks for your continued support and interest. :bow:

Smaller/lighter cranks are more difficult as there is less strength in the crank journal when it comes to turning the main shaft. A neat fit packing piece is vital.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RobWilson

great work Bob very interesting post
Rob


----------



## cobra428

Hi Bob,
I'm just a little curious as to why you have all the dots on you layout scratch.gif
Tony


----------



## steamer

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Hi Bob,
> I'm just a little curious as to why you have all the dots on you layout scratch.gif
> Tony



A very old school classic layout technique that is certain to never smudge with greasy/oily handling.  Works every time and if the layout lines in the blue wipe off, you just reconnect the dots.


----------



## Maryak

Rob, Tony and Dave,

Thanks guys for your continued support and interest. :bow: :bow:



			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> A very old school classic layout technique



After that I feel like Methuselah. :big:

Not much today only managed to finish the journal and webs, the journal will need a polish but I need to remove a heap of metal and balance things before that.

The final web sizing cut.






The finished turned crank journal.











Next is to make a packing block for the web and cut off the crank centres to minimise the out of balance and interrupted cuts on the main shafts.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ariz

that crankshaft is going to be very well done
(better than my english for sure ;D)


----------



## Maryak

Ariz,

Thanks for your interest and support. :bow:

I hope it will be as good as your English.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

No slight intended Bob......Actually, when using a casting or a rough piece of steel, this method can't be beat. I used it too on the layout of my engine castings.

Dave


----------



## jthulin

Nice progress Bob Thm: Just curious, when you milled out all that excess material from the crank, did you notice any distortion in the blank? I don't recall what the material is or if you normalized (annealed) it at any point ???


----------



## Maryak

Dave,

No slight was taken, I found it funny and quaint. As an aside what do they do now to stop line loss ???

jthulin,

The materials a lump of flat plate, cut off a bigger lump of same at my mates shipyard. It machines similar to mild steel but is probably boiler plate because it is easy to start the metal tearing rather than cutting. It has not been heat treated in any way and if there was distortion it was minimal.

95% of the materials I use are scrounged from many sources and when your head down base up in someones scrap bin I don't ever recall thinking now is this EN 32 or SAE 1024.

Once it's in the machine you get a handle on its' probable origin e.g. my drilling jig blank.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Honestly Bob,

In the professional shops we have here, I never see anyone mark out a job....

They measure the casting or forging on the CMM and create the part in virtual mode and then fit the finished part to it in computer world.....they start machining from there.

Measuring of the part usually happens right on the machining center with a prop in the tool holder.  Occasionally I see my toolmaker do it....and use a 4 jaw too........he's the only one.

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Dave,

Thanks for that, and your support. :bow: 

I just do what I was taught as the pain of not doing so resulted not only in a job going haywire but the 1950's Navy's sometimes sadistic and always painful punishments were to be avoided where possible, e.g. running around with a tin hat, a backpack full of bricks and a 0.303 Lee Enfield held at the high port shouting, "I WILL MARK OUT MY WORK," to the beat of your hobnail boots, minimum time 30 mins and more if you slowed down.

To be fair, our armed forces at that time, continued to practice the hard lessons learned from WWII and one small boy's feelings did not rate a mention. You either got over it and survived or they got rid of you.

Back to the crankshaft. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Milling the packer for the web.






The packer fitted to the web.






Cutting away the unwanted bits with a slitting saw.






Back to the lathe for the main shafts and web sizing.











And so ends another week.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## PhillyVa

Bob,

Is that electrical tape holding the packer in place and how tight is the packer?

By the way it's look'n good so far.

Philly


----------



## Maryak

Philly,

Thanks for your continued interest and support. :bow:

The electrical tape is covering copper wire binding the packer to the crankpin. You can just see the twisted off end in the 4th photo of my last post. The packer is a very light push fit - not quite a sliding fit. The tape is to remind me to keep away from this area and to check that things are staying put after interrupted cutting.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Paolo

Hi Bob....
nice useful Way to do a crankshaft!!! :bow:
Best Regards
Paolo


----------



## 90LX_Notch

Bob,

Once again, I am learning so much from your build. 

Thanks,
One of the "other" Bobs.


----------



## jthulin

> jthulin,
> 
> The materials a lump of flat plate, cut off a bigger lump of same at my mates shipyard. It machines similar to mild steel but is probably boiler plate because it is easy to start the metal tearing rather than cutting. It has not been heat treated in any way and if there was distortion it was minimal.
> 
> 95% of the materials I use are scrounged from many sources and when your head down base up in someones scrap bin I don't ever recall thinking now is this EN 32 or SAE 1024.
> 
> Once it's in the machine you get a handle on its' probable origin e.g. my drilling jig blank.
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Fair enough Bob. 

I think it would be safe to assume that your lump of steel has virtualy no internal stresses within it. The same could not be said of a typical piece of cold rolled or to a lesser extent hot rolled flat bar. Removing material as you have done from a cold worked bar could cause a very significant distortion as the stresses become unbalanced- just a word of caution to others planning similar methods...


----------



## arnoldb

That's coming along very nicely Bob :bow:

Are you driving the crank with a center & dog on the headstock side ?

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Paolo, Bob, Jeff and Arnold,

Thanks for your support and interest.

Arnold, Yes I am using a dog to drive the crank on the headstock end.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Well,

The start of the week saw the crankshaft done. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Must say I am happy its behind me. The finish on one of the journals is not all I'd hoped for but once I have the bearings positioned I should be able to clean it up. For now I'll leave well enough alone. :

Main shaft 2 machining. 






Sizing the width of the second web.






The finished crankshaft.






Tomorrow I hope to start tinning and soldering the water jacket.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb

Nice Crankshaft Bob - Boy, you must be glad those interrupted cuts are done :big:

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Thanks Arnold for your continued support. :bow:

Yes, I am happy the cutus interuptus is over.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RobWilson

Very nice job Bob, great work Thm:


----------



## Maryak

Rob,

Thanks for the kind words and support. :bow:

Today I managed to solder the water jacket to the cylinder,  ;D I also managed to forget the camera 

I am sure there will be some plastibond required but that's tomorrows work, plus, of course, the camera to show the results.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi,

One of my through bolts was loose so I had the whole thing to unglue to get at the bolt.  

Can't say this soldering is my strong suit but at least its together and it holds water.  A little more on the top and some bog and some filing and I will be happy.

The Water Jacket






Trial fit up for alignment, (at least that's OK).











Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi,

The last 3 days have had me on the hop with ISO tanks so not much in the way of progress. I did manage to get the waterjacket bogged up using Devcon liquid steel. Some might call it coloured Araldite, although it goes off much quicker than normal Araldite. I am giving it a few days to completely harden before clean up.

I decided I would make a start on the main bearing blocks. A hunt around had me resorting to Bob's mystery metal, (at least I know it welds OK as it was originally a part of a 150 tonne crane).

Hacking off a lump of metal for the main bearing housings.






Squaring up the lump.






To have a better chance at good alignment the 2 bearing housings need to be machined together so one block of metal has been squared up to allow 2 housings to be made as 1 before dividing.






The housing block marked out for drilling and splitting.






Avagoodweekend.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RobWilson

Hi Bob , Its really starting to look great ,i do like following your posts. 
Rob


----------



## steamer

What Bob said! It's really beginning to look kinda like a 8Hp Simplicity!

Keep going Bob! ;D

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Rob and Dave,

Thanks guys for your kind words and support.  :bow: :bow: The parts I was least confident about, (the soldering/sealing of the water jacket and the crankshaft), are done so I hope it's downhill from here.

Rob, I looked at your gearcutters in the Myford thread - very impressive, did you use buttons to form them and how did you relieve them ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RobWilson

Thank Bob,
I did use the button method, i have posted more on my thread as not to spoil yours.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5357.msg57672#new
Thanks Rob


----------



## Maryak

Rob,

Thanks again for all the gear info in your Myford thread. :bow:

A little more today, I seem to have to find time for everything other than me at the moment and I don't see it changing for a few months, (years ???).

Drilling the bearing housings - tapping drill size.






Splitting the housings.






Nominating what fits where. 






Tanks for the memory was most of today.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Two steps forward and one step back. 

After splitting the two halves are machined to size.






Tapping the bottom halves - 3rd hole broken tap. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	












Under the lime is the bottom halves housing being slow cooled after heating to cherry red.






Drilling the bolt clearance hole in the top halves.






Ready for marking out and splitting into 2 bearing blocks.






Tomorrow will be a lay day due to doctors visits and open home for inspection.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## SBWHART

Hi Bob

Did you heat the bottom half and cool it slowly to let down the hardness of the broken tap so you could drill it out,

If so I guess it work.

Nice work watching progress with great interest.

Have fun

Stew


----------



## Maryak

Hi Stew,

In a word "Yes."

The tap was 3/16" HSS - old and probably blunt. When I was a lad breaking smaller taps was one of lifes hazards and it necessitated a trip to the blacksmiths shop to put the part in the forge and then in the lime bucket to give a very slow cooling period and anneal the HSS. If it was late in the day the part was placed in the forge and the forge was shut down and the whole thing allowed to cool overnight, even better and sometimes the only way, especially if the tap broke off in a large part.

After annealing I used as big as would fit centre drill to restart the hole in way of the broken tap. This was followed by a drill one size under the tapping drill size. Next a HSS punch was used to free some of the daggy bits of tap remaining. The tap was then restarted using a plug/bottom tap to pick up the original threads. After ensuring that things were as before, the hole was tapped in the normal manner, (taper, intermediate then plug tap).

Things were pretty straight forward this time as it was a through hole being tapped. It can be much more exciting when the tap breaks off in a blind hole. : : Ask me how I know. ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## SBWHART

Hi Bob

Thanks for the explanation, pleased you got the tap out OK. I suppose it would work just as well using dry sand if no lime was available.

Have fun

Stew


----------



## tmuir

I've been watching and enjoying this thread closely and have been enjoying it.
Hopefully I will not drag this too far off topic but can you explain why lime is used to cool the item slowly?
How do this help compared to just using sand?


----------



## SBWHART

Without getting too technical:-

When you heat carbon steel up the carbon combines with the iron to form something called martensite, when you quench the steel you freeze it in this state which is very hard. 

Heating it up and letting it cool down slowly the carbon migrates out of the iron and the steel returns to its soft state. 

The ? with sand is a good enough insulator to slow the cooling down enough. Its something you could try.

Hope this helps

Stew


----------



## Maryak

Stew and tmuir,

Thanks guys for your support and interest. :bow: :bow:

tmuir,

Stew has explained it pretty well. Lime was what was used successfully in my formative years so where possible, I have followed this method. I have tried dry sand but it leaves the HSS harder than does the lime. As a result, when you start the drilling process there is more chance of the drill wandering, especially on smaller holes as it encounters the harder bits of tap v the softer bits of your original material.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Not much but at least it was all forwards. 

Splitting into 2 housings.







Sizing for width.






Ready for marking out and boring/shaping.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## SBWHART

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Stew and tmuir,
> 
> Thanks guys for your support and interest. :bow: :bow:
> 
> tmuir,
> 
> I have tried dry sand but it leaves the HSS harder than does the lime. As a result, when you start the drilling process there is more chance of the drill wandering, especially on smaller holes as it encounters the harder bits of tap v the softer bits of your original material.
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Thanks Bob I'll have to get myselfe some lime

Stew


----------



## ariz

you're doing a great work Maryak, and your threads are always instructive

I'm happy to see that I'm not the only one that breaks taps 
so, lime is better than sand...
is lime what we call 'calce' in Italy? a substance used, with cement, to bild walls?

I ask because the 'calce' is of a light grey color, while your lime seems to be of a light yellow color...


----------



## Paolo

Another idea!! Never tough that lime, as "calce" a white fine powder made by cooking the limestone at high temperature, used by home builder had that capacity..!!
Best regards 
Paolo


----------



## Maryak

Paolo and Ariz,

Thanks for your continued support and interest. :bow: :bow:

Yes Lime is Calce.

There are different types of Lime, I just bought what I could from a garden shop. Where it was in contact with the hot part it has turned dark gray which indicates to me the carbon migrating from the steel.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428

Diymania, "Every great journey begins with but a single step" I don't know who I'm quoting but it works!
Didn't mean to step on your thread Bob :bow:
Tony


----------



## Maryak

Diymania  said:
			
		

> This is just amazing :bow: I wouldent be able to do this even if i had 2 or your shops @ my disposal.



Diymania and Tony,

Thanks for your interest. :bow: :bow:

As Tony says one step at a time and soon you have a ladder. We all started from knowing nothing about machining or engines, some like me, were lucky enough to be paid and taught how to do this others have learned and persevered on their own. The journey is as much fun as the destination.

Crawl before you walk before you run. There are many very good examples here of how to get started and all of us will help where we can.

Tony, helping a newcomer is what makes this site so good. It's not stepping on my thread it's part of what we are about.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

As Tony says one step at a time and soon you have a ladder. We all started from knowing nothing about machining or engines, some like me, were lucky enough to be paid and taught how to do this others have learned and persevered on their own. The journey is as much fun as the destination.

Crawl before you walk before you run. There are many very good examples here of how to get started and all of us will help where we can.

Tony, helping a newcomer is what makes this site so good. It's not stepping on my thread it's part of what we are about.

Best Regards
Bob
[/quote]



What Bob said...in spades! ;D DIymainia......it all starts with a decision....there's plenty of help here....I don't think anybody would have it any other way......


...Gotta get me a lime bucket! ;D Looking great Bob!


OK.......Keep us in suspense with the setup to bore those bearings and I'll see if I can guess...... ;D

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Dave,

Thanks for your continued help and support. :bow:

Just so you don't have a FFFFretful weekend. Below is a boring post.

The first housing being aligned in the 4 jaw for boring and facing.






Drilling the bearing hole.






Boring the bearing hole.






The 1st housing half complete.






Trial placement in the bed.






2nd verse - same as the 1st.











The idea is to turn them around mounted on a slighty tapered mandrel and finish the other sides.

Were you guessing the same thing Dave. ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb

Nice progress Bob - looks good Thm:

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Arnold,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

"Were you guessing the same thing Dave.  "


Nope....but if you didn't move two of those 4 jaws in between parts, you got the same results...... ;D

Dave


----------



## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> "Were you guessing the same thing Dave. "
> 
> 
> Nope....but if you didn't move two of those 4 jaws in between parts, you got the same results...... ;D
> 
> Dave



You got it buddy, I should have taken a picture of the 2 big chalk "X's" on the jaws I undid.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

OK I love this forum....

In my little bird brain, my knee jerk reaction would have been a faceplate and a knee, perhaps just a squared up block of stock.  I would get the first part mounted on the knee, and bolted down with the cap bolts.  Then the next one would be mounted up without disturbing the knee. Might have put a slot for the bearings to sit in to register them.

But you got it with a simplier setup.....so Good ONYA! ;D


Dave

ps fixed that ....I think.


----------



## Maryak

Diymania  said:
			
		

> I can barely wait to see this baby run! :bow:



That makes 2 of us. :big:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## CrewCab

Well, after speed reading for 2 hours I've just about covered this thread, Maryak 10, and Mrs Maryak's new Mansion  ............. blimey Bob that's only the last 4 months .............. all I've achieved in my spare time over that period is to cut the lawn 3 or 4 times, wash the car once and go on holiday for a couple of weeks .............. I feel like a serial under achiever 

But ............... it's been a blast Bob, wonderful work, very enjoyable and great tips ........ please keep up the good work ;D

and all the best to you and Mrs M 8)

CC


----------



## Maryak

CC,

Thanks as always for your support and kind remarks. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

A New Week - 

Progressed the bearing housings to the welding stage but discretion being the better part of valour I opted to leave the actual welding till next time.

Bearing housing on the tapered mandrel. If your curious the taper is around 0.001"/inch of mandrel. Just a light tap on the compound slide after loosening off the locking studs.







Sizing for total width.






1 finished housing.






2 finished housings.






Test set up for bearing housing, (crankshaft by implication), to cylinder alignment.






And so endeth another day.

Best Regards
bob


----------



## arnoldb

Nice going Bob :bow:

I'm curious about mounting the bearing blocks on the mandrel - do you slightly loosen the cap screws, then push the block up the mandrel to where it gets "tight" and then tighten the cap screws to lock it in place ?

Kind Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> I'm curious about mounting the bearing blocks on the mandrel - do you slightly loosen the cap screws, then push the block up the mandrel to where it gets "tight" and then tighten the cap screws to lock it in place ?



Arnold,

Thanks for the continued support. :bow:

In a word no.  The bore stays as is, (locked up tight), and the whole thing is tapped home using a 1/2 lb hammer and a brass dolly. You soon know if your heavy handed as the housing spins on the mandrel. In this case, maximum facing cut 0.015," maximum longitudinal cut 0.020." Ask me how I know. : It's also a good idea to start with hand feed IMHO until the preceding is determined.

Edit - If you loosen the bearings you lose concentricity and the fancy round bits on one end will not be round when you take it off the mandrel and re-tighten.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RobWilson

VERY NICE BOB 
GREAT PHOTO BUILD Thm:
Rob


----------



## steamer

Didn't know those parts got welded! ....hope they don't move around much.

Dave


----------



## arnoldb

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Arnold,
> 
> Thanks for the continued support. :bow:
> 
> In a word no.  The bore stays as is, (locked up tight), and the whole thing is tapped home using a 1/2 lb hammer and a brass dolly. You soon know if your heavy handed as the housing spins on the mandrel. In this case, maximum facing cut 0.015," maximum longitudinal cut 0.020." Ask me how I know. : It's also a good idea to start with hand feed IMHO until the preceding is determined.
> 
> Edit - If you loosen the bearings you lose concentricity and the fancy round bits on one end will not be round when you take it off the mandrel and re-tighten.
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Thanks Bob !


----------



## Maryak

Rob,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:



			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> Didn't know those parts got welded! ....hope they don't move around much.



Dave,

Thanks for your continued interest. :bow:

I hope so too. I will mill a flat on the brass and use it as a clamp whilst I weld them.

Arnold,

Your very welcome.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Managed to get the bearings welded - well sort of ;D

The set up and clamping of the lower halves for welding.






One of the welds. Plenty of bling needed.  






Checking for web clearance on the crank.






Temporary bearings fitted to determine sizing for the final bearings which will be collared into the housings.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## CrewCab

Bob, what sort of welder are you using, stick or MIG ............. I'm no expert at all, the little I've done over the years has been 95% self taught ...... in my (very) limited experience over about 3mm thick (1/8") I'd prefer stick.




Then again it might be TIG in which case .............. I'm outa here ................  

CC


----------



## Maryak

Diymania and CC,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow: :bow:

As I no longer have access to oxy/acetylene I have had to use a 240V stick welder. I can't seem to get on with mig, (by the time I've got it all working correctly, I could have done an hour's work with sticks), and have never used tig.

After our not so good experience with a 240V plasma cutter, my associate is now talking about a small oxy set. I can only hope. :

Such short welds are not a stick welders strong suit IMHO.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## CrewCab

Bob, in my very limited experience using electric metal glue welding I would prefer a stick welder with the sections you are working with, penetration is far superior (technical term chaps : ) ........ with MIG I find I get an awful lot of build up but naff all penetration ............ OK ........ 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 I know, perhaps best if I start a new thread so experienced folk can tell me what I'm doing wrong 

Great thread, though I think I've lost the plot regarding the bearings, ............. I'll go back and read it all again and see if the brain cell kicks in 

atb 

CC


----------



## RobWilson

Hi Bob, looking great 
For arc welding small parts i use a 1.6 mm rods they are shorter and allot more controlable, some preheat may be needed on the larger part.
Regards Rob 



			
				CrewCab  said:
			
		

> Bob, in my very limited experience using electric metal glue welding I would prefer a stick welder with the sections you are working with, penetration is far superior (technical term chaps : ) ........ with MIG I find I get an awful lot of build up but naff all penetration ............ OK ........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know, perhaps best if I start a new thread so experienced folk can tell me what I'm doing wrong
> 
> Great thread, though I think I've lost the plot regarding the bearings, ............. I'll go back and read it all again and see if the brain cell kicks in
> 
> atb
> 
> CC



Hi CC allot of people fine it hard to set up a MIG , as it can be set up three ways spray transfer, dip transfer and the wrong way. every machine is differant and it takes a bit of practice to set up.
Then there is the correct gas for the job in hand

Regards Rob


----------



## Maryak

CC and Rob,

Thanks for the support and advice. :bow: :bow:

My welder is very basic and has only 2 amperage settings 2.5 and 3.2 mm. Because of this I have stayed away from 1.6 mm rods as I feel there would be too many amps.

Yep, penetration is very important and I agree with you mig is more out than in. :

The bearings are bronze located in the housings which are welded to the base/frame.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob

You could probably still get away with the 1.6mm rods on the 2.5 mm setting, the only caveat is that you may only be able to use the first half of the rod as the excess heat in the rod tends to bake the flux coating on the last half of the rod leading to problems. 

MIG is really not that hard to set up, the transfer mode is largely a function of the welding amps so with a general purpose 200A welder you don't have a huge choice, the mode is dictated by the current. After that it's essentially just a matter of the welding voltage and wire speed being set. Practice, as ever, makes perfect but it really ain't that difficult.

If you need a hand at any stage just yell out, I have MIG, Arc & Oxy and 30+ years of welding behind me and am just up in the hills.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## GailInNM

Really looking good Bob.
Your techniques are quite different from mine in many cases, so I have learned a lot from your threads. 
Gail in NM,USA


----------



## CrewCab

RobWilson  said:
			
		

> Hi CC allot of people fine it hard to set up a MIG , as it can be set up three ways spray transfer, dip transfer and the wrong way.



no doubt I've been using option 3 then : .............. to be fair I've only done a little welding over the years and it'll be mainly inexperience, once I get the bug again I'll shout up for a little advice if I may Rob ......... thanks in anticipation 

CC


----------



## RobWilson

CrewCab  said:
			
		

> no doubt I've been using option 3 then : .............. to be fair I've only done a little welding over the years and it'll be mainly inexperience, once I get the bug again I'll shout up for a little advice if I may Rob ......... thanks in anticipation
> 
> CC



Hi CC if your ever up North , The True North  :big:  :hDe: your more than welcome , i have used gas and arc from being an apprentice , when we finally go a MIG at work setup three was the most used one ;D
Regards Rob


----------



## CrewCab

RobWilson  said:
			
		

> The True North :big: :hDe:



  ;D ........... the cheek of it, I'm about an inch south in the AA road atlas :big: ;D :big:

but, Maryak ........ sincere apologies for straying off topic (but it was Rob's fault really) ............   ............ back to the main event 8)

CC


----------



## Maryak

gjn  said:
			
		

> If you need a hand at any stage just yell out, I have MIG, Arc & Oxy and 30+ years of welding behind me and am just up in the hills.



Thanks Gavin :bow: I will try the 1.6 rods and only use 1/2.



			
				GailInNM  said:
			
		

> Really looking good Bob.
> Your techniques are quite different from mine in many cases, so I have learned a lot from your threads.



Gail, I am sure I have learned a lot from you too - Thanks :bow:

Rob and CC,

Thanks for all the welding info. :bow: As a born in Lancashire lad I do have some idea of the "True North"

Perhaps we should have a sub forum on welding. ??? ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## CrewCab

Maryak  said:
			
		

> As a born in Lancashire lad I do have some idea of the "True North"



Sorry Bob, your true roots had momentarily escaped me : .............. anyway, do you still have "Hot-Pot" on Monday's  

CC


----------



## Maryak

CC,

Thanks :bow: Hot Pot I have not had since my mum passed on and I can't say it was one of my favourite dishes. 

After a 2 day break, one with tanks and the other with our new house, ( fences, driveway and front lanscaping, not me - it's part of our contract), I managed to get a very little done this morning, Tanks again. Ah well it's all grist for the mill.  

The start of bling on the base/ housings using Devcon as the filler.







Flywheel #1 marked out ready for hacking up.






Enjoy your weekend.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi All,

Getting a bit ahead of myself here but reading my "Idiots Guide" to good hitting and missing I came across the drawing and instructions for making the cam. The suggested way of going about it was IMHO hit and miss. As designed it is also offset with one half of the lobe having a slightly different profile to the other................. so a lot of help from turbocad and a bit of patience resulted in a series of offsets for milling the cam using a rotary table.




Now all I hope I have to hope for is the concentration powers to be able to make 181 successful cuts as per the spread sheet.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tmuir

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Now all I hope I have to hope for is the concentration powers to be able to make 181 successful cuts as per the spread sheet.
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Good luck, I hope it all works first time.


----------



## arnoldb

Bob, nice job on the bling so far. And I'm sure you'll have the concentration to mill that cam profile; you already had it to make the milling offset list! :bow:

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

tmuir and Arnold,

Thanks guys for your kind words and encouragement. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Hi Bob,

I don't know how fine you made your spreadsheet, but every 5 degrees works well.  I then hardened the cam and polished the little "flats" with a diamond file.  Came out fine.

Dave


----------



## Deanofid

Your build is coming along well, Bob. Watching and reading, and waiting for the next "episode".
Thanks for sharing so much of your shop work.

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Dave and Dean,

Thanks for your support and encouragement. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

One more week- gimme just one more week :

I had heaps of pi$$ing about fun getting my power hacksaw to accept lumps bigger than its' design parameters but after drilling more holes in the base to relocate the fixed jaw - problem solvered, (Oz joke about paint).

Flywheel 1 in the 4 jaw and the OD part roughed out.






Making a start on the recessed section.






That's probably it for a few days as I'm off for a Keratoacanthoma removal from my leg tomorrow and it's grown so fast I will need a skin graft. That will put me on my back for a few days until the graft takes.

If you take nothing else from this forum - DON'T GO OUT IN THE SUN WITHOUT PROTECTION, this is the 6th beasty I have had removed and it's mostly due to my time as a deckky on a prawn trawler when I was a lad and bullet proof.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RobWilson

OUCH Bob hope your leg gets better soon,sounds bad, 
Regards Rob


----------



## ariz

Bob I hope that you solve your problems soon, stay well and rocky my friend


----------



## steamer

Get well soon Bob!....

and point taken.......

Dave


----------



## arnoldb

Best wishes for a quick recovery Bob.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## ozzie46

Quick recovery Bob, That is why I swear long sleeve shirts even when temps reach 100 and above farenheit. I got way to much sun when younger. Bullet proof ya know. :big: :big:

 Ron


----------



## kustomkb

Great progress on the engine!

sorry to hear about the pending graft 

Get well soon.


----------



## CrewCab

Good luck Bob, I'm "off in" tomorrow as well to have a "stent / angioplast" in my leg, not a major procedure but I'll be glad when it's over  ............. anyway take care, looking forward to more progress 

CC


----------



## gmac

Bob;

You had me googling for "Keratoacanthoma". Hope all goes well, use the recoup time for planning your next project!! We eagerly await it's posting.

CC - best wishes to you too.

Looking forward to using all this guidance when building my first hit & miss.

Cheers
Garry


----------



## Maryak

Rob, Ariz, Dave, Arnold, Ron, Kevin, CC and Garry,

Thanks for the kind wishes. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

CC,

I watched when they put the stent in my heart, very interesting procedure. Just get a hold of the surgeon and remind him that you are watching and we are not going to ................................. each other are we. ??? :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## rake60

Bob & CC

Best wishes for both of your procedures.

Rick


----------



## Maryak

Rick,

Thanks for your kind wishes. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## CrewCab

Bob, Rick, many thanks

Bob, sorry to Hi-Jack your thread, good luck mate 8)  ................. race you to get out.

CC


----------



## Paolo

Hi Bob
I'm learning a lot seeing your post...Thanks for sharing :bow: :bow: :bow:
Best regards
Paolo


----------



## Maryak

Paolo,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

I'm back but on my back, everything went well. I had 2 surgeons one working on my arm to take the graft and the other on my leg to remove the offending item. Most of the time was spent discussing house building which my primary surgeon is also doing. Not the greatest way to spend 45 mins but very instructional. ;D 

CC,

I hope your procedure went as well as mine did. ???

Thanks to every one for your concern.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428

Hey Bob,
Glad all is well :bow: Get back to the shop soon Thm:
Tony


----------



## Paolo

Hey Bob
Nice to ear all is well...hope you will be soon on your shop!!
Best Regards
Paolo


----------



## Bill Mc

Hi Bob - Just a short note to say get well soon. Speaking from experience the graft will be sorer than the operation on your leg. - Bill Mc Kinley


----------



## CrewCab

Maryak  said:
			
		

> CC,
> 
> I hope your procedure went as well as mine did. ???



Bob, 
Yes mine went very well, arrived home mid morning today and told it was "a good result" 

Glad yours went well, *MANY THANKS* to all for their support 8)

CC



PS: Over to Bob's build thread chaps ..................  ;D


----------



## arnoldb

Glad to hear everything went well Bob 
And I wish you a speedy recovery!
Kind Regards, Arnold


----------



## ksouers

Bob, CC,

Glad to have you BOTH back ;D


Kevin


----------



## Deanofid

Glad to hear all went well for you, Bob.

Dean


----------



## ozzie46

Wishing you have a quick recovery and hopefully no need for a return visit to the hosp.

 Ron


----------



## rake60

Very good to hear the positive out come from both Bob and CC!

I will allow 48 hours recovery time for both of you,
*THEN get back to work!!!* 

*SERIOUSLY*, It is great to hear everything went well.
You both take care of yourselves and listen to what the
doctors are telling you do, (or not to do as the case may be).

Just go easy for awhile.

Rick


----------



## cobra428

CrewCab  said:
			
		

> Bob,
> Yes mine went very well, arrived home mid morning today and told it was "a good result"
> 
> Glad yours went well, *MANY THANKS* to all for their support 8)
> 
> CC
> 
> 
> 
> PS: Over to Bob's build thread chaps .................. ;D




Glad everythings good with you too CC
Tony


----------



## steamer

Great to hear Bob!  Get on the mend you got an engine to build! ;D

Best Wishes!

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

I have been holding off replying in the hopes that my next post would be a return to project H&M but alas not for another week. The surgeon is very happy with my progress but said I must wait until all the stitches are out before I stand for long periods. That should be Monday 17. I can't say how p1$$ed off unhappy I am at being constrained but I keep saying "It's for your own good."

Just wanted to get that off my chest and say thanks to:

Tony, Paolo, Bill, CC, Arnold, Kevin, Dean, Ron, Rick and Dave for your thoughts and support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cfellows

Hi Bob,

Somehow I missed this thread. However, glad to hear that you are recovering well. Look forward to seeing you back to work on this engine.

Chuck


----------



## GailInNM

Best wishes on recovery to both Bob and CC.

If the surgeon says take another week listen to them. I made the mistake of not listening once and ended up with an extra week of recovery. He really did know what he was talking about, even if my body was telling me different at the time.

There is a time for everything. Now is the time to dream and draw.

Gail in NM,USA


----------



## RobWilson

Take it easy Bob
Regards Rob


----------



## ariz

we'll wait till monday 17 to follow your work

rest for few days again


----------



## Maryak

Chuck, Gail, Rob and ariz,

Thanks guys :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## CrewCab

Good to see your up and around young man ;D

Take care, you have a mansion to finish, among other things :

CC


----------



## rake60

You just behave yourself there Bob.
A few days of scheduled maintenance can save
months of down time.  

Rick


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Bob, Paolo, CC...very glad everyone seems to be doing well.
Take care of yourselves.


----------



## 90LX_Notch

Get well soon. I started a new job and haven't been on the net much. Sorry to have found out so late.

Bob


----------



## Maryak

rake60  said:
			
		

> You just behave yourself there Bob.
> A few days of scheduled maintenance can save
> months of down time.



Thanks Rick, CC, Zee and Bob.

I always behave myself but occasionally, my behaviour leaves a little to be desired, just ask SWMBO. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

1st day back in the shop after a 2 week break. 

I have been promising myself to make one of these for a while and the flywheel's were the perfect excuse.






OK its a tool holder with a round bit. : The idea is that the bit can be rotated so for square and acme threads with a large helix angle. the tool can still have a substantial body and be rotated to match the helix angle, maintaining the strength of the bit. 

In this case it is rotated so that the OD of the recess can be cut without the bottom of the tool binding on the arc.

The completed recess.






At this point my mobile v SWMBO advised me to stop as I had been on my feet for a whole 2 hours. Nuff said. : :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob, 

Good to see you back on your feet after your extended period in dry dock. I empathise with your position after having just returned to the workshop after a couple of weeks off with the dreaded swine-flu. - Take it easy.

When you are back in the shop could we have a close up photo of the business end of that tool please.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## PhiberOptix

Sorry to hear about the op, and glad to hear that you have recovered and are back in your workshop,
also hope you never have to go through that again.. ever, i think i read you have had 6 of these removed.

Wishing you the best of health now and future more

regards
Andy


----------



## Maryak

Gavin and Andy,

Thanks for the kind wishes. :bow: :bow:

Gavin,

I'm happy you are over the swine flu, nasty bug that one. I will take a photo tomorrow of the bit.

Best regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Welcome Back Bob!

Glad things are progressing on all fronts!......will be sure to check out the mansion thread soon!
Dave


----------



## hedgehog

good to see your back in the shop doing what you enjoy. nice work so far


----------



## arnoldb

Bob, welcome back to some machining 
And as to that tool holder: I have a similar one - made from the body of a broken tungsten tipped tool, except mine has 2 grub screws to hold in the bits - I found that only one screw is sometimes too little to hold the bits securely. I leave it in one of my QCTP holders - making that holder on its own a "semi-quick-change" holder. When I grind bits for it, I just try and make the tips on-center; makes life easy 

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Dave, hedgehog and Arnold.

Thanks for your support. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## NickG

Bob,

That's a good idea. Good to see you back.

Nick


----------



## CrewCab

Good to know your back up and about Bob ;D

CC


----------



## ozzie46

Welcome back Bob.


 Ron


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Welcome back Bob.
I look forward to seeing more of your project.
Take it slow and listen to when the body says..."hey! take it easy"


----------



## Maryak

Diy, Nick, CC, Ron and Carl,

Thanks Guys :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Busy week ahead, people coming to look at our unit. The new house is ready for walk through inspection with the builder, back building my H&M and in my spare time I will stick a broom up my fundamental and sweep the floor,  just so I'm not bored. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RobWilson

Looking good Bob , pleased to see your back in the workshop.

Regards Rob


----------



## PhillyVa

Bob,

Good to see you moving again...just take it easy and be careful. Keep moving to heal better, it gets the blood flowing...Oh what the heck you belong to the grumpy old mens club... stickpoke I can't tell you what to do. ;D

Regards

Philly


----------



## putputman

Hey Bob, just remember, those old engines will be running long after we are gone, so *take care of yourself*. 
I think you are like me, and feel you have only so many engines left in you and don't want to miss any one of them.


----------



## Maryak

Rob, Philly and Arv,

Thanks for the continued support and best wishes. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Yes Arv, I'm sure I'll run out of time before I run out of engines, boilers and tooling to wish for, make and sometimes break.

Very little today mainly because I was p1$$ing about  experimenting trying for a good finish across the face and I ain't finished yet 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			











 ??? ???

I did manage to remember to take a couple of shots of the business end of the recess tool bit.











Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob

Thanks for the pictures - now I understand, I'll make one on the weekend.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak

Gavin,

Glad the pictures helped.

A better run at it today ;D

Flywheel 1 Ready for removal from the 4 jaw.






2nd Verse same as the 1st, (Flywheel 2).






Light at the end of the tunnel maybe 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb

> Light at the end of the tunnel maybe ?


Of course Bob! - every bit counts 
Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Well, I actually returned to this last Thursday for an hour and it's taken me from then until now to post.....................Why ??? ??? ???

I am so pi$$ed off at myself. I misread my depth gauge and have buggered the 2nd flywheel    :-[ :-[ :-[.

Next move take up knitting. : :

Actually next move, beg some more material before the shipyard closes for Xmas and start again.

Watch this space, but don't hold your breath. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## vlmarshall

Ah, man...sorry to hear that one. What's the material?


----------



## gjn

Bob

Sorry to hear about the flywheel but it's good to see you back, I've missed seeing updates to this build. Have you shifted the workshop yet or are you still down at the port?

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## steamer

Hey Bob,

Good to see you back on the hunt....sorry about the scrap....you can have any piece of stock in my shop...but you gotta come here to get it.... ;D

Dave


----------



## Deanofid

Sorry to hear about the mis-step, Bob, but glad you are able to get back to the workshop!

Dean


----------



## deverett

Maryak  said:
			
		

> I am so pi$$ed off at myself.
> Best Regards
> Bob



Remember Bob, it is always better to be pi$$ed OFF than pi$$ed ON.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


----------



## Maryak

Thanks Guys,

Your comments have helped, given me a good laugh and brought things back to reality. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Gavin, the shop is still in the port and I don't see it moving before new year. Probably a good thing as I have plenty of honey do's and my own should do's to keep me occupied.

Vern, the material is best described as a lump of steel 3/4" thick and min 6" diameter. Said lump to be machined with HSS tool bits.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## vlmarshall

Like Steamer's offer, I was thinking of sending a lump to you...until I saw where you are... ;D


----------



## shred

Sounds like a spare weight-lifting weight to me... those are bottom-of-the-barrel CI though.


----------



## NickG

Bob,

Glad to see you back. Sorry to hear about the flywheel. We all do stuff like that from time to time, sometimes we can get away with it sometimes we can't but we usually learn a bit from our mistakes.

Can't wait to see this restarted.

Nick


----------



## zeeprogrammer

I've been waiting your return. Welcome back.
Sorry about the flywheel.


----------



## ariz

what a pleasure to see you still at work on this engine Maryak

but you said that the shop will not be at home until the new year?!
however, it isn't a long time now, some weeks...
it seems that you will not be inactive in the meantime


----------



## Maryak

Thanks Shred Nick and Carl,

Today is air con and central heating installation day. Tomorrow our new furniture for the study arrives - having spent a considerable portion of my life looking like a stevedore at least I'll go out looking like a commodore. I have been admiring the desk for over 12 months now.

Yea I know - pictures will be in the mansion thread.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Success................well I obtained a lump of scrap 1" plate. With no oxy available it was quite a challenge to cut 7.5" x 12" x 1" in a 6" power hacksaw down to 5.5" x 5.5" but almost there................naturally I forgot my camera, (which I always keep in the car :), so you will just have to imagine the four cuts on 2 sides and some fancy grabbing of the saw arm lifting handle as the last cut broke through on each side.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428

Hi Bob,
Happy to see you back in the shop again.

Tony


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Left home at 0630 ready to hit the shop for a full day. A 1 hour drive to the mantra of "measure twice cut once." 

Opened up and re-commenced battle with the oversized metal v the undersized hacksaw.












Oh we're so glad your here panic job we need a new camlok to empty a tank please cut out the damaged one and weld in a new one. 











All 316 stainless and the cargo was Hydrochloric Acid - nasty stuff. Still the money was good and very welcome.

Nett result after progress interuptus.






Ah well there's always next week.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

They call you in the shop, Bob? Man, what kind of people do you hang out with?
: )

Too bad about the interruption, but always good to have paying work.
I miss the times when you used to be able to work on this project every few days! Still hanging in with you.

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Thanks Tony and Dean :bow: :bow:

Well did my round trip today and set up flywheel No.3 in the 4 jaw, another interruption to re-band a tanks insulation so when I got to starting the recess in the wheel, I DIDN'T.   After my last stuff up I will do this in one operation and hopefully get it right. :











I'll be Back ;D (after Xmas).

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Another week and I hope you all had a good Xmas. Ours was very quiet as it turned out. New Year should be a blast - will let you know how I survive.

Took the car for a service today and managed to get a little shop time whilst that was underway.

3rd flywheel recessed to depth, (managed to read my depth gauge correctly this time :).






The recess squared off on the inner and outer diameters.






See ya in the new year.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Powder keg

Looking good there Bob!!! (the engine not you) LOL ;D


----------



## ksouers

Bob,
Glad the flywheel is cooperating this time...


----------



## Deanofid

Happy for your success, Bob. Glad you could get some shop time!

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Bob,

Any special technique or tool used to square off the diameters? That is, did you switch to another tool for that?


----------



## Maryak

Wes, Kevin and Dean,

Thanks guys for your continued support and interest. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Zee,

Yes I switched to a round section toolbit in a holder, ground similar to a parting tool. The round section allows the toolbit to be angled permitting it to compensate for the angle of the diameters whilst maintaining rigidity.











Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ozzie46

Good to se you back on the build Bob. Nice work.

 Ron


----------



## steamer

Looking good Bob!

Dave


----------



## ariz

glad to see you back Maryak
good work, thanks for sharing
thanks for the trick on the round toolbit too


----------



## Maryak

Ron, Dave and Ariz, :bow: :bow: :bow:

Thanks for the support guys and whilst I think of it, Thanks Dave for the info on toolpost grinders, (I don't want to mess up Gail's excellent thread anymore than I already have).

Another day in Sunny SA - that's SA as in South Australia not SA as in South Africa. Our colleagues in the West are having very bad bush fires and in NSW severe flooding. The "Lucky Country" is again having a summer "Ordeal by Fire and Water." 

Oh yes the engine. :

The second, (3rd), flywheel bored to fit the crankshaft.






The coke can protector for the chuck jaws to finish turning the flywheels.






Flywheel 1. sized for diameter.






Ready to square off side 2 recess and then the turning part of making the wheel is complete.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## NickG

Nice work Bob, this thing is huge, we'll be able to hear it over here when it starts up! :big:


----------



## gbritnell

It's good to see you back Bob. That's a good tip on the toolbit. I never thought of that. I have quite a few pieces of carbide from broken end mills. They would work great for that purpose. 
gbritnell


----------



## steamer

No Worries Mate! Hope their handy,

Nice flywheel blank there.....spoked or not spoked?

Dave


----------



## Maryak

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> It's good to see you back Bob. That's a good tip on the toolbit. I never thought of that. I have quite a few pieces of carbide from broken end mills. They would work great for that purpose.
> gbritnell



George,

Thanks for your support. :bow:

It's an old trick for turning large square threads, which allows for the helix angle of the thread, permitting the tool to go to depth.

Dave,

Thanks again. :bow: Spoked - 6 from memory and one of the wheels carries the governor weights with the forks through a spoke, (I'm winging this as the drawings are 60 km away :)

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Talk about Gerry and the Hat-Tricks. : I was wandering aimlessly about our nearest shopping mall yesterday, waiting the interminable wait of one whose better half is a shopaholic when Bam, thought of the week, I'll go and join the local library. 

Found the place, went in and signed my life away thus allowing me to borrow from any of the 5 libraries within our local council.

Lo and behold, leaping off the shelf at me was Tubal Cain's "Spring Design & Manufacture," No. 19 from the Workshop Practice Series.

Aha, I need to make some valve springs and governor springs for this engine, just the thing.

As one who has used many springs over the years I had never given them much thought. Wow, they are a science and an art in their own right. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





A great little book and I hope I can do it justice when the time comes.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb

> Talk about Gerry and the Hat-Tricks.


 :big: :big: :big:

Good going on your build Bob, and you still have way too much spring in you to belong to that music group!

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Thanks to you Arnold, :bow: I sprang into action today. : 
......................or...............
The spring is sprung
The Grass is Griz
I wonder where the birdies is.

The bird is on the wing.

Don't be absurd, don't be absurd, the wing the wing is on the bird.

The turning part of the flywheels is finished. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Pictures when the photobucket bird takes wing and springs into action again.

EDIT: Wingdings and Springthings. ................(Photobucket is back online)






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ksouers

Congratulations on the flywheels, Bob.
It's been a tough fight, but you won!


Uh, you been nipping at the brandy again??


----------



## ariz

Maryak  said:
			
		

> The spring is sprung
> The Grass is Griz
> I wonder where the birdies is.
> 
> The bird is on the wing.
> 
> Don't be absurd, don't be absurd, the wing the wing is on the bird.



 :big: :big: :big:

nice flywheels BTW


----------



## Maryak

Kevin and Ariz,

Thanks for the support guys. :bow: :bow:

Don't quite know why I was in a whimsical mood yesterday not sure if the cure is more or less brandy. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## seagar

Is the bird a Galah? Rof}

Ian(seagar)


----------



## Deanofid

Well, that's three down, and two done. A 66.6% average, Bob. Not bad!
; )
With all the running around you have to do, I'd say it's getting along fine.

Dean


----------



## ksouers

Bob,
Don't worry about the whimsy. Sit back and enjoy it. It doesn't happen often enough in our hectic lives these days.

Of course, more brandy!!!  *beer*


----------



## Maryak

seagar  said:
			
		

> Is the bird a Galah? Rof}
> 
> Ian(seagar)



No just the thread owner. :

Thanks guys and I, (but not SWMDBO), like the more brandy idea as well. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb

;D Good going Bob 

I concur with the more rather than less philosophy  - at the risk of Mrs M condemning this board as a bad influence ;D

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

1st up thanks Arnold for the continued support. :bow:

Another week in the other sunny SA and I actually managed to scrounge up some Aluminium for the conrod and piston. Yep I even managed to make the piston.

The pieces for the piston and conrod.






Regrettably Mr Depenbusch and I disagree about the diameter of the piston v diameter of the cylinder and following from this the size of the piston rings. Attached is a spreadsheet based on the writings of Tubal Cain and Proffesor Chaddock regarding sizes etc. for pistons rings and piston diameters. The ring calculations are based on the cold forming method from "Machining and Fitting 1927" and the writings of Paul Chernokeef.

These calculations and ring forming method have worked well for me in both full size and in a model engine. They are by no means the only way and others have had success hot forming their rings. Each to their own.

The piston drilled internally.






The outside down to size and ready for the ring grooves.






Cutting the ring grooves using a standard parting tool.






The turning of the piston is complete.






Best Regards
Bob


View attachment Pistoncalc.xls


----------



## tel

Nice work, as always, Bob


----------



## cobra428

Nice Bob,
Looks like you turned the Conn rod/wrist pin clearance area inside. Any reason instead of a milled slot?

Tony


----------



## Maryak

Tel,

Thanks mate for your continued support. :bow: 



			
				cobra428  said:
			
		

> Nice Bob,
> Looks like you turned the Conn rod/wrist pin clearance area inside. Any reason instead of a milled slot?
> 
> Tony



Tony,

No reason - just followed the drawing - if it's NBG make another piston. Perhaps I should rename the thread "Hit Me-Miss Me Twice."
Thanks for your continued interest. :bow:

Today was a god day in the shop and I managed to get the ring blanks made. Nest week will be splitting, gapping and forming.

Hacking off a lump of spun cast iron.






Roughing the ring blank OD.






Ready for drilling and boring.






Drilled.






Bored.






Testing the axial width with the piston.






Rings of Olympian proportion, (if your like me - ham fisted - it's always a good idea to make extras for the ones you managed to break).






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## NickG

Haha, nice work Bob :big:

I was going to ask about the clearance for aluminium piston with cast iron cylinder. Thanks for sharing the spreadsheet.

When I tried the aluminium piston on my flame licker it all siezed up!

Nick


----------



## Deanofid

Nice photo series on the rings, Bob. Here's hoping you have three spares!

Dean


----------



## kvom

Following along -- nice work.


----------



## Maryak

Nick, Dean and kvom,

Thanks for your continued support and interest. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Last week saw the cast iron piston ring blanks completed and this week the manufacturing of the piston rings was completed.

I thought I would try and present a more detailed description of how I go about making these rings using a cold forming method. Firstly the ring material must be spun cast iron. I have tried other forms of cast iron and it does not work! The rings have no or at best, insufficient spring and will not adequately grip the cylinder wall.

The first job is to split the ring using a small, (junior), hacksaw. The ring should be held as low as possible when the 2 cuts are made. With the first one I held it a little too high and you guessed it, it broke.

With the ring still held in the vise the free gap is filed to size. In this case 0.113






The 2 piston rings have now been successfully gapped.






The next task is to make a mandrel to achieve the rings final form and size.

A piece of material is machined to slightly under the finished OD of the ring. This is then drilled to the tapping drill size for a clamping bolt. 
Next a section about ¼ wide is parted off from the end and drilled to bolt clearance size.






The end of mandrel is now turned down to the final ID of the ring with an axial length a few thousandths of an inch shorter than the ring axial width. Lastly the hole is tapped to take the clamping bolt and you end up with something which looks similar to this.






The split ring blank is located on the mandrel and lightly clamped, (finger tight).






The ring blank is now compressed onto the mandrel until it is fully located on its inner diameter and you cannot rotate it. 

Lastly the clamp is fully tightened and the compressor, (fancy name for a jubilee clip), is released.

The ring is machined down to the required OD.






And Voila - a completed ring with a good amount of tension. 

Any questions, I will try and answer them. ??? ??? ??? ??? ???

Testing the rings in the cylinder and on the piston.











And that's it for this week.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428

Very Nice Bob,
I can almost hear it now!

Tony


----------



## joe d

Bob

I've got some piston rings in my future, so many thanks for the tutorial! Nice to see you back at your engine, bet you're enjoying it.

Cheers, joe


----------



## Deanofid

Nice ring write up, Bob!

Dean


----------



## ozzie46

Thanks for that Bob, Sure is a lot easier than the other ways of doing it I've read about.

 Ron


----------



## putputman

Bob, lot of good information on this thread. Thanks.

I am interested in your technique for making rings. I want to give it a try someday. That is one part of these engines that I never had the courage, or knowledge, to try.

Question: I have never heard the term "spun cast iron". Could you tell me a little about it and how it differs from just plain grey cast. Is it specified as spun cast iron when you purchase it.


----------



## Maryak

Tony, Joe, Dean and Ron,

Thanks Guys for you kind words and support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Ppm,

Thanks for your interest. :bow:

This is my understanding but if someone can give more detail, I know of at least 2 people who will appreciate it. Spun cast iron is cast iron which is poured into a rotating mold i.e. the mold spins the metal as it enters and centrifugal force ensures an even homogeneous mix with no occlusions etc. etc. A bit like the way they make concrete pipes. There is no hard outside skin as experienced with cast iron ingots and it is an absolute joy to machine. The result of having such an even mix is there are no hard or soft spots and all the properties of the metal are consistent throughout.

The last piece I bought was 4" diameter and 1ft long and cost $AU100 about 4 years ago. In Oz it is available from Surnam Metals in varying diameters and lengths. Quite often offcuts can be had but the prices from this company are always at the top of the range.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob is correct in all respects re the spun cast iron. I've also used the stuff from Surnam's and as he says it's good but not cheap. I've not been able to find another supplier in SA so for the moment that's all we've got.

It's good to see the project regaining momentum after the domestic hiatus.


----------



## Maryak

gjn  said:
			
		

> It's good to see the project regaining momentum after the domestic hiatus.



Gavin,

Thanks for your continued support and help. :bow:

I think with this project momentum is more like a moment.................per month....................um.

Not a lot to show but here are today's moments. ;D

Squaring up a piece of Aluminium for the conrod.







Marking off for splitting the big end.






Set up to drill the big end studs and split the bearing with a slitting saw.






Playing with my collets and other interruptions in the form of phone instructions from you know who meant this was a  Necessary good place to stop.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Ah well, any progress is a good sign. Things will be easier when you relocate the workshop up into the hills.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## kustomkb

Nice work Bob!

Glad to see the progress!

House is a beauty too!


----------



## Deanofid

Glad you got to see your shop again, Bob!

Dean


----------



## steamer

"Playing with my collets and other interruptions in the form of phone instructions from you know who meant this was a Necessary good place to stop."


Had similar interruptions during the boat build......hang in there!....looking great! 


Dave


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Kevin, Dean and Dave,

That's almost the 1st line of a poem but I better not otherwise Marv will think I'm beyond help. ;D

Anyway, thanks guys for your ongoing support. 

*SHOP TIME*

The conrod is coming along quite nicely.  

The holes in one end drilled prior to splitting for the big end.






The big end is slitted and splitted. 






All joined up and ready to start some turning.






Checking the tailstock alignment with a test bar.






Roughed out and ready for reversing and tapering.






The completed turning .............next................ drilling the big end and gudgeon.






Enough excitement for one day - time to quit whilst I'm ahead. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

Hey, there he is, and he found his way back to the shop!
I don't know how you do it, Bob. Being so far from your machines, I mean.
I'd get the shakes if mine weren't within walking distance.

Glad you got some more time at it. The crank is looking good!

Dean


----------



## arnoldb

Thats looking very good Bob :bow:

And I like all the home-made tools you're using; the lathe dog, tool bit "holders" and it looks like your slitting saw arbor is home-made as well Thm:

"The big end is slitted and splitted.  "  :big: 

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I don't know how you do it, Bob. Being so far from your machines, I mean.
> I'd get the shakes if mine weren't within walking distance.



Dean,

I know what you mean. I'm think about the 3 "V's" VODKA, VALIUM and VIAGRA. That may stop one shake then again maybe I'll shake all the harder so to speak. :  ;D



			
				arnoldb  said:
			
		

> And I like all the home-made tools you're using; the lathe dog, tool bit "holders" and it looks like your slitting saw arbor is home-made as well.



Arnold,

Yes my tool holders, (except for the parting tool), lathe dogs etc. are Holme made including some of my milling arbors. The slitting saw and side and face cutter arbor has had a hard life and I'm thinking about a new one with an improved design and maybe a key and keyway. So many things to do and so little time to do them. I'm sort of working on the principle - If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Anyway, thanks to you both for your continued support. :bow: :bow:

I actually made it to the shop again today but managed to put 2 duff batteries in my camera. I have now put them, (the batteries), in the rubbish bin.

I drilled and reamed the conrod bearings and have taken one side down to size. Piccys next week.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Got to the shop early this week as I had a bit of urgent business at that end, (the other end), of town. Good combo business and pleasure. I managed to finish off the machining of the conrod.

Last Friday's effort of one side of the rod.






Setup for mlling the big and gudgeon ends.






Test fit of the bigend and crankshaft.






Sizing the gudgeon end of the rod.






Milling the gudgeon end round to the guide, (machined off nut).






The finished machining - now for my worst part - BLING.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Looking good Bob, glad you are getting a bit of workshop time again after the upheaval of build Casa del Bob down south.


----------



## Philjoe5

That's one heck of a con rod Bob. Your photo documentation, as usual, is up to high standards. That's a lot of metal carving, setups, and it all came together - nicely orchestrated :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Jack B

Hi Bob
We both seem to be following the same path but your work is a lot nicer than mine. Best of luck.         Jack B


----------



## Deanofid

Shoot. Missed your whole last post on the con-rod, Bob. Looking great.
Hope you're able to put down the vodka and valium and make your way back to the shop soon. 


Dean


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Phil, JackB and Dean,

Thanks guys for your support and interest. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Alas no shop this week as we are having an erection ceremony with our Pergola. The chippy says he will be finished Friday. Let's hope he's on schedule. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Alas no shop this week



Such is the price we pay for keeping in good with she who must be obeyed....still it's worth it in the end. Good luck with the pergola and hopefully we'll see you back at the Port soon.


----------



## Maryak

Gavin,

Thanks again, the pergola turned out well. I did make it to the port last week but I had to work so no time on the engine. 

Today after fitting a cup wheel to my T&C grinder I did manage to make and fit the crankshaft main bearings. 

Some bronze for the bearings - This was drilled through and reamed to 1/2" for the crankshaft.







A taper mandrel was made and the bearings turned to fit the housings.






A couple of assembly shots to inspire me if nobody else. :












Next I will fit the gudgeon pin and then we can bed the working bits in with a drill.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob

It's looking impressive, especially now the bits are coming together. Dumb question - what's the significance of the cup wheel on the T&C grinder with the making of the bearings?

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## steamer

That is really starting to take shape Bob.....gonna be a nice one.

Dave


----------



## Philjoe5

Looks great Bob. Thanks for the photo updates. Always something for me to learn here.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Dave and Phil,

Thanks guys. :bow: :bow: :bow:



			
				gjn  said:
			
		

> what's the significance of the cup wheel on the T&C grinder with the making of the bearings?



Nothing  ;D - I just found a cup wheel and fitted it before I turned my attention to the important things, I probably shouldn't have mentioned it and confused the issue.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## cobra428

Looking Good Bob,
I can almost hear the putt putt..........putt putt now.

Tony


----------



## CMS

You'll be needing some help to pick that bad boy up if you build the rest of it as beefy as you have sofar. Nice shape to the base. :bow:


----------



## slick95

WOW    Bob

That engine is forming up super Nice. Keep getting your "shop time" 'cause I need to see more of this great build!

Jeff


----------



## ozzie46

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Didn't confuse me. I understood what you meant.
> 
> Ron


----------



## Maryak

Tony, CMS, Jeff and Ron,

Thanks guys for your kind words and continued support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

Coming together nicely now, Bob. When you get to the point of assembly pics, it really starts showing how much work you've got in it.

Dean


----------



## 1hand

Bob;

That thing is a monster.........I like em big too.........engines that is.

Matt


----------



## Maryak

Dean and Matt,

Thanks for the support guys. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## NickG

Yeah it is taking shape, nice work Bob. :bow:


----------



## Maryak

Nick,

Thankyou for your continued support. :bow:

Managed to get a little done yesterday.

First up I made the gudgeon pin.
















Next I drilled the main bearings and blocks for the oil cups - This will allow me to introduce a bit of brasso during the bedding in if needed.







I commenced to assemble the main components but ran into a problem. The piston with rings was not just a tight fit in the cylinder but a VERY TIGHT fit. Checking the rings without the piston all seemed OK so I can only assume that the ring grooves in the piston are slightly oversize on their diameter. I will double check this and fix things up on my next shop visit.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## slick95

Looking good Bob   

I'm sure you'll find and fix the piston/ring clearance. Shop Time, Shop Time!!!

Jeff


----------



## ksouers

Bob,
Good to see you back in the shop again.
I hope the visits won't be so far and few between


----------



## Maryak

Jeff and Kevin,

Thanks for dropping in with words of encouragement. :bow: :bow:

Not much to show today.

I sorted out the ring grooves in the piston. There was a slight taper in the groove and when I checked I had not ground the parting tool dead square. A lick and a promise on the grinder sorted that out and everything went together OK. There was a small amount of binding on one main bearing which is probably due to the welding creating a bit more pull in one direction compared to the other. Some brasso and some boring time sorted that.

Bedding in the main running assembly.






Following this I decided I would get started on the gears so I found a piece of drill rod in the form of a broken crowbar and spent the rest of the day rough turning a blank for the hob.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5

Thanks for the posting Bob. Congratulations on the problem solving efforts. This engine is really starting to take shape.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak

Phil,

Thanks for the support. :bow: 

It was a great feeling that when turning the assembly over in the lathe with the palm of my other hand over the top of the cylinder there was a good amount of suck on the down stroke. This has given me confidence that the engine will be capable of opening the inlet valve.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

Nice to see your progress, Bob.
Glad to hear you are going to cut your own gears. I hope you'll show us the hobbing process. I think
quite a few of us have cut gears with a regular cutter or single point, but we don't get to see the hob 
method everyday. Sounds great!

Dean


----------



## steamer

Coming along nicely Bob....good to see you back at it!

Dave


----------



## arnoldb

Good going Bob 

I'm happy to see you got some shop time!

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Dean Dave and Arnold,

Thanks guys for your help and support. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Attached is a PDF of the calcs and drawing of the soon to be made gear hob. Any mistakes found will be gratefully accepted before I hack the hob.

Best Regards
Bob 

View attachment H&M Hob.pdf


----------



## Maryak

Hi All,

Today I managed to get the gear hob turning completed 

Roughing out the hob shank.







The finished shank.






The turning part of the gear hob completed.






Next week I hope to get a little more time but I have some contract truck welding to do 1st. I have negotiated an extra day with SWMDBO. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Yes yes, I have seen that method done before.  It works!

I have seen it used to approximate helical gears too.  Your numbers seem to be right Bob, but it's 5:20 am here, and I haven't had my coffee..... 


Dave


----------



## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> I have seen it used to approximate helical gears too.  Your numbers seem to be right Bob, but it's 5:20 am here, and I haven't had my coffee.....
> Dave



Dave - feeble excuse : but thanks for checking and for your support. :bow:

After a foray into some serious welding I made it back to the shop and here's what went down yesterday and today. I was so stuffed when I arrived home yesterday all I did was shower eat and sleep. Advancing years are a PITA sometimes.

The hob set up for milling the teeth.






The completed hob.






The pinion blank.






Setup for milling the pinion.






Result after the proving pass - Eureka - The hob actually cuts. ;D






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb

Nice job Bob!

good going.


----------



## Deanofid

Bob, thanks for showing how you made up the hob. Kind of a tease with that last bit, ("it actually cuts").
So, did you finish the gear, then?

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Kevin,

Thanks for your interest and support. :bow:



			
				Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Bob, thanks for showing how you made up the hob. Kind of a tease with that last bit, ("it actually cuts").
> So, did you finish the gear, then?
> Dean



Dean,

Thanks for your support. :bow:

As I did not have a magnet available, I did the hardening by colour and everybody's interpretation of cherry red is different as is the ambient light available. I was nervous that there would be more rubbing than cutting if I'd not been hot enough at the quench.

No, I did not finish the pinion - enough excitement ;D everything relevant was written on my blackboard so I can pick up where I left off next week.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Well thanks for that. Hob, hobbing, hobbers...this has sent me off into the internet to find out what this all means. Looks like it's going to take a little more than a quick wiki read.

Right now I'm stuck on the phrase "the blank is usually gashed to the rough shape to make hobbing easier"...

'gashed'?

Ah well...always good to be learning.


----------



## mklotz

Gashing is the process of using an undersized cutter to remove the bulk of the material before using the expensive gear cutter to actually form the teeth.


----------



## Maryak

Zee,

Gash - Long and deep slash.

Take a slitting saw smaller than the width of the bottom of the gear tooth gap and cut all the tooth gaps to the working depth of the gear.

This is pretty well essential when using a spiral hob to make a worm wheel/ helical gear using the hob to turn a free wheeling gear/worm wheel blank at the same time as it cuts said item. The gashes for this are cut at the helix angle.

Now if your not totally confused - I hope I have helped a little.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5

I'm with Zee here. This is the best description of gear hobbing I've ever seen. The pictures are worth 1,000,000 words. Thanks for taking the time to post them Bob, and to you Marv for the further description of the technique. :bow: :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Thanks Marv and Bob.

hob...interesting word. Seems origin is unknown but might be related to 'hubbe'. Haven't found anything on hubbe yet. hob is also a shelf on the backside of a fireplace to keep food warm. hobnail is 'hob'+'nail' where hob is a peg or projection...that seems kind of close.

In any case, meant to say in my last post that I was glad to see you (Bob) working on the engine again. It's really taking shape.


----------



## Maryak

Zee, Marv and Phil,

Thanks for your kind words and support. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## putputman

Bob, you mentioned using a magnet during heating. I vaguely remember reading something about magnets & heat treat but can not remember were I saw it. Could you explain how to use the magnet instead of watching the colors. As I recall it was more accurate.


----------



## Maryak

Arv,

When drill rod has reached the correct temperature, (around 800C), for quenching........ it loses its magnetism. So when the piece is no longer magnetic it has the correct metallurgy for quenching and locking in the iron carbide, the compound which imparts hardness to the steel.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## mklotz

It's called the "Curie temperature" if you want to research it further.


----------



## Jack B

Bob I see things are progressing nicely on this site.
                                 Jack B


----------



## Maryak

Marv,

Thanks for the nomenclature - Curie Temperature. :bow:

Jack B,

Thanks for your support. :bow:

Well, I actually finished the pinion and made a start on the gear. I am pretty pleased with the hob and the pinion looks right, so hopefully it will be right. :

The hobbing of the pinion is complete.














Drilling for the locking screw.







The completed pinion after dressing and parting off.







Roughing out the gear blank.






And on that happy note another week has passed by. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

That pinion looks like it came out well, Bob. Same amount of teeth and spaces. Always a good sign, eh?

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> That pinion looks like it came out well, Bob. Same amount of teeth and spaces. Always a good sign, eh?
> 
> Dean



Thanks Dean, :bow:

It is a good sign 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Now for the gear. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Lots good Bob! That'll do!

Dave


----------



## arnoldb

Very well done Bob :bow: 

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Dav and Arnold,

Thanks for the kind words and support. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RichD

Bob,
Lots of calcs in making gears. I've saved your PDF file for future reference. Good hard to find info.
Looks like your hob worked out great. Congratulations, and thanks for the great writeup and pics. Did you end up with any nicks or undercutting? Also how did you align the tool to the work? By tooth on center...or gap on center?
Rich


----------



## Maryak

RichD  said:
			
		

> Bob,
> Lots of calcs in making gears. I've saved your PDF file for future reference. Good hard to find info.
> Looks like your hob worked out great. Congratulations, and thanks for the great writeup and pics.
> Rich



Rich, thanks for your kind words and support. :bow: :bow:

To try and answer your questions.


> Did you end up with any nicks or undercutting?



Fortunately there were no nicks. Undercutting was avoided by using the older pressure angle of 14.5 deg rather than the more modern convention of 20 deg, (much more important for the pinion than the gear because of the smaller number of teeth).



> Also how did you align the tool to the work? By tooth on center...or gap on center?



I aligned by the hob tooth on centre. I brought the bottom of the tooth to centre using a surface gauge then lowered the hob by half the tooth width using the fine quill feed. I pondered which would be better (tooth or gap) and settled for tooth as I figured that when the upper and lower hob teeth started to cut I could see any misalignment and correct up or down to ensure true centre without any permanent tooth damage also I was sure using the tooth that my whole depth would be as correct as I could make it.

I hope that explains things.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5

Thanks Bob for posting this interesting procedure. I had heard of it but never saw it carried out in steps. I'm enlightened ;D

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## RichD

Bob,
Thanks for the info.

I was reading up on undercutting in my copy of Machinery's Handbook 12th edition.
According to them:
"Slight undercut begins when a pinon of 31 teeth is generated by a straight-sided unmodified rack or hob type of cutter, and this undercut may be excessive when number of teeth is less than 22."

To find the minimum No. of teeth for a given pressure angle use this formula...
Min. No. of teeth=(tan2pressure angle+1/tan2pressure angle) x 2

(tan 14.5°=0.25862)
(0.258622+1/0.258622) x 2 = 32

(tan 20°=0.36397)
(0.363972+1/0.363972) x 2 = 17.1 or 18 teeth

And stub teeth use .8 instead of 1 in the same formula yielding 14 teeth

Seems the shorter broader teeth work best for a small number of teeth.

Rich


----------



## Maryak

Rich,

Thanks for your information. :bow: I obviously got my 20 deg and 14.5 deg pressure angles base over apex. 

Still I am not quite sure what it all means.

As far as I can tell reading my MHB 16th Edition the 32 teeth minimum is for a 1 DP gear. The formula in my edition is:

n = 2 x addendum x cosec2 PA

for a 16 DP Pinion with 14.5 deg pressure angle.

n = 2 x 0.0625 x cosec2 14.5 deg

n = 0.125 x (1/sine 14.5)2

n = 0.125 x (1/0.2504)2

n = 0.125 x 15.9514

n = 1.9939

for a 16 DP Pinion with 20 deg pressure angle.

n = 2 x 0.0625 x cosec2 20 deg

n = 0.125 x (1/sine 20)2

n = 0.125 x (1/0.3420)2

n = 0.125 x 8.5496

n = 1.0687

Oh, I wish I hadn't done that, :wall: now I'm baffled by science or is it th_bs

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## RichD

ok,Now I'm baffled...but that's my normal mode according to my wife. ;D


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Cut the gear today and here are the results.

Proving nick.






The hobbing is complete.






The almost finished gears - Now they need a jig and bedding in.






What did I learn from this ???

1. Gear Hobbing is a viable and satisfactory way to make gears in the home workshop.

2. The next hob I make will have a heavier shank (3/8" min) and will have a larger OD (from 5/8" - 3/4").

3. The tooth land will be reduced from 1/32" to 1/64" or smaller.

4. Whilst I have not tried a cast iron or steel gear with a drill rod hob. The cutting speed needs to be max half the HSS speed.

5. A six tooth hob may be smoother cutting than a 4 tooth hob.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb

Nice gears Bob Thm:

And I must say I agree with the points you made ;D

Kind regards, Arnold

&#1071; &#1085;&#1077; &#1076;&#1091;&#1084;&#1072;&#1102;, &#1083;&#1102;&#1073;&#1086;&#1081; &#1080;&#1079; &#1084;&#1086;&#1080;&#1093; &#1090;&#1077;&#1090;&#1091;&#1096;&#1077;&#1082; &#1077;&#1089;&#1090;&#1100; &#1103;&#1080;&#1095;&#1082;&#1080; ;D


----------



## Maryak

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> &#1071; &#1085;&#1077; &#1076;&#1091;&#1084;&#1072;&#1102;, &#1083;&#1102;&#1073;&#1086;&#1081; &#1080;&#1079; &#1084;&#1086;&#1080;&#1093; &#1090;&#1077;&#1090;&#1091;&#1096;&#1077;&#1082; &#1077;&#1089;&#1090;&#1100; &#1103;&#1080;&#1095;&#1082;&#1080; ;D



My dad's sister came close. She qualified as a genuine English witch, they were probably pretty small from riding her broom. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Cedge

Bob...
Gorgeous work!! After the single tooth experience, I'm really wanting to try the hobbing technique. In one of the Youtube demos I've watched the guy made his hob with 10 teeth. 

Steve


----------



## kustomkb

Good job on your hob Bob! :bow:

They look great, thanks for the info.


----------



## Deanofid

Nice work, Bob. I really like that you can use the same hob for both sizes.

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Steve,

From one of this forum's masters of gorgeous work, high praise indeed - Thank You. :bow:

Kevin and Dean,

Thanks guys for your continued support. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Jack B

Bob that is spectacular gear work. You did a great job of explaining it. Jack B


----------



## Maryak

Jack B,

Thanks for the kind words and continued support. :bow:

Today I was left in peace and I managed to get the cam profiled. As fully paid up member of, "Gerry and the Hat Tricks," it required all my concentration not to lose my place working round the profile in 2 deg increments. :

The cam blank OD







Ready for transfer to the mill.






Half way now it's time to change hands and go back the other way. ;D






The profiling is complete - All it needs now is parting off, smoothing off, and voila 






My idiots guide to profiling offsets - derived using Turbocad 






Avagoodweekend ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## SAM in LA

Bob,

Nice work on the cam lobe.

I don't believe I have the attention span required to cut a cam lobe with out missing a step of the procedure.

SAM


----------



## Philjoe5

Bob,
Incredible work on the gears and cam lobe. Inspiring as always. Thanks for stopping in your work to take photos and posting them.  :bow: :bow: :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## arnoldb

Very nice job on the cam Bob :bow:

Is that profile coordinate table a feature of TurboCad ? - that could be very handy!
 ;D - I had to smile at your description of your dad's sister. Maybe used them for locking on to the broomstick for sudden acceleration and braking :

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Sam and Phil,

Thanks again for your support. :bow: :bow:

Arnold,

Thanks for stopping by. :bow:

The table was built running Excel in parallel with Turbocad and transferring the offsets from datum measurements. If there is an easier way, I would be very happy to learn about it.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Not a lot to show for a mornings work but

I finished the cam and the cam/gear shaft is ready for fitting but before I do that I will make the head and then I will have a much better idea of what goes where. :

The finished cam






The cam, gear and shaft.











Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Cam looks good, any progress is better than none

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## arnoldb

Bob, the cam really came out well after cleaning it :bow:
As to CAD & Excel - Thank you... Seems there's only one way to do it then - the hard way ;D

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Deanofid

The finished cam looks good, Bob. It has sort of a notch in it. Can you tell us the purpose of that thing?

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> The finished cam looks good, Bob. It has sort of a notch in it. Can you tell us the purpose of that thing?
> 
> Dean



Dean,

Thanks for following along. :bow:

The detente, (notch), is where the points open and close. I don't fully understand it myself yet but I hope all will be revealed as I get a bit more done. :

Gavin & Arnold,

Thanks for your input guys. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob

I suspect the notch is so the points open and close rapidly (ie snap open and closed) to suppress any tendencies towards arcing across the contacts. Does the wiring include a condensor across the points?

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak

Gavin,

Picture of wiring diagram. There is a condenser but you tell me if it's across the points :






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Troutsqueezer

Hi Bob. Indeed it is.

Looking good BTW.

-Trout


----------



## Maryak

Trout,

Thanks for looking and your help. :bow:

As you may gather, my knowledge of auto electrics is such that you could write it on the back of a postage stamp and still have room for my name and address.  

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

As trout points out, the condensor (capacitor in new speak) is across the points and will suppress arcing. The cam does double duty, driving the valve (which is a smooth ramp up and ramp down action) and driving the points (which needs to be an on/off action) - that would probably explain the notch?


----------



## Philjoe5

Great work Bob. :bow: The discussion about the dual function cam was interesting. When I first started this hobby I thought it was necessary to fully understand the operation and function of all parts before making them. I now realize that there are cases when that becomes much clearer when mating parts have been made and the whole subassembly is sitting in front of you.

Thanks for posting 

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## steamer

Cams can be a pain!...Glad yours went well!

Nice Job Bob!.......waiting on that distinctive sound of hit and miss!


Dave


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Phil and Dave,

Thanks for your continued interest and support. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Today seemed like a good day for a head job.................. so I made a start on the head.

I was lucky in finding a piece of round aluminium that would just do the job.

The underside and OD turned.






Set up in the mill for drilling.






The vale recesses and the plug hole.






Next week will see the drilling of the head bolt holes, the drilling jig for the cylinder and last but not least the coolant passages. If I get time I will set up vertically and drill the intake and exhaust passages.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Never thought of a head job like that before - must be my debauched upbringing. Still it looks good and it's most likely the only type we'll get these days.


----------



## Maryak

Gavin,

Thanks for your input. :bow:

Today saw the underside of the head completed.

Drilling for the head bolts and cooling water passages.







Drilling the intake and exhaust passages.






Machined to thickness and the rim radius.






Some time ago a friend of mine who is a vintage car and motorbike collector/restorer gave me a 6V coil. Last week I asked him did he have a spare condenser.

This is the result.






Now all I have to do is build an engine to drive the magneto. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Have a great weekend

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

The cam cutting chart looks similar to one I used....you still have to watch out an not make an indexing error.....Nice job!

Dave


----------



## gjn

Bob

The exhaust & intake runners that you are drilling in from the side appear to go through a couple of your previously drilled vertical holes, is that an optical illusion on the photos or are they plugged in some way after the drilling?

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak

Dave,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

Gavin,

They what you get when you don't pay attention. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 They are water cooling passages drilled in the wrong place. They will be blocked by not drilling the matching holes through the water tank and not putting holes in the head gasket. As you can see they don't come right through. So only those who read this will know of the mistake. : I sure as hell don't intend to start again when it's a recoverable error.

Thanks too for your continued support. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

The head finished off nicely, Bob. I'd put a big blue arrow pointing to the spark plug hole. That's just me,
'cause I know I'd tap the wrong one if I didn't! 
Mum's the word about the extra holes in the ports, then.. Got it! ; )

Thanks for the update.

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Dean,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

Not a lot to show again. 

I hacked up a cast iron offcut from the cylinder to provide 2 pieces for the valve guides.

Here is a picture of 1 piece machined to the guide major diameter - 5/16"






As accuracy is a necessity with the guides, my next job is to make a collet holder for the lathe. Having hunted around and found a suitable piece of steel I will start a thread on making this item.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob

I look forward to the collet holder build, I want to use 5C collets but the cost of the holder from H&F has put me off, not to mention the cost of a D1-4 collet chuck :-X


----------



## Philjoe5

Thanks for the update Bob. As they say "dead men tells no tales"  :big:

You know someday, 1,000 years from now, somebody's gonna dig up one of our engine models from the primal ooze, take it apart and wonder what the heck that hole/groove/blind threaded port that we've hidden so well is for? 

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak

Gavin,

Thanks again for hanging in there. :bow: 




			
				Philjoe5  said:
			
		

> Thanks for the update Bob. As they say "dead men tells no tales"  :big:
> 
> You know someday, 1,000 years from now, somebody's gonna dig up one of our engine models from the primal ooze, take it apart and wonder what the heck that hole/groove/blind threaded port that we've hidden so well is for?
> 
> Cheers,
> Phil



Phil,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

Yes and after a masters thesis on it, they may and I stress, just may, decide it was a mistake. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Captain Jerry

Philjoe5  said:
			
		

> You know someday, 1,000 years from now, somebody's gonna dig up one of our engine models from the primal ooze, take it apart and wonder what the heck that hole/groove/blind threaded port that we've hidden so well is for?



If it takes 2000 years, they may put it in a shrine.



			
				Maryak  said:
			
		

> As accuracy is a necessity with the guides, my next job is to make a collet holder for the lathe. Having hunted around and found a suitable piece of steel I will start a thread on making this item.



That will be worth watching for sure. I'm beginning to appreciate the art of toolmaking and I'm looking forward to this one.

Jerry


----------



## Maryak

Jerry,

Thanks for stopping by. :bow:

My collets are ER 16 so no draw bar is required and this is handy if you have a long piece of stock.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Looking forward to the lathe collet holder thread.

I just took a quick scan (every two pages) of your thread...looks like a lot of parts!
Any chance of a "here's where we're at" pic?


----------



## Maryak

Zee,

Thanks for stopping by. :bow: Your wish is my command, I will arrange a photo of where I am. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ozzie46

Bob, I'll be watching the collet chuck build as well. I have some ER type collets as well but they use an MT3 shank with draw bar. Got them from CDCO here in the States. I already have the nut so I just need to make the chuck for the headstock spindle so I can do away with the draw bar

 So many roun toits! So little time!  ;D ;D

 Ron


----------



## Maryak

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Bob, I'll be watching the collet chuck build as well. I have some ER type collets as well but they use an MT3 shank with draw bar. Got them from CDCO here in the States. I already have the nut so I just need to make the chuck for the headstock spindle so I can do away with the draw bar
> Ron



Ron,

I am in the exact same position and the valves and valve guides have given me the necessary push to mount the collets in the lathe as well as on the mill

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

I'll bet you like having a 'through' chuck for those collets, Bob. You may remember, after you bought 
your collet set from the Hong Kong outfit, I bought some directly afterward. Made a chuck/closer for 
them to fit the Atlas spindle a few months back, and man, they're handy!

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Dean,

Thanks for the support. :bow:

Now that you mention it, I DO remember your buying collets from CTC shortly after me.

Great minds think alike, (even greater minds look on in disgust). :big:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Finally made a couple of parts for the engine - The Valve Guides and I just have to say the collet chuck for the lathe worked a treat.

Holding the valve guide prior to drilling






Reaming the valve guide






Two completed valve guides ready for pressing into the cylinder head.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb

Good going Bob.

Glad you like the collet chuck!

And a neat example of a home-made D-bit reamer as well ;D

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Philjoe5

Great work Bob. I appreciate the collet closer discussion here. My friend who recently put me onto a 1940's vintage Logan Lathe is building a collet closer for it. I am new enough at all of this that I did not appreciate how handy they can be.

How much longer will it take for me to know everything :big: ?

God give me patience and please hurry.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Deanofid

A couple of gook looking valve guides, Bob. I knew you'd enjoy the collet setup!

Dean


----------



## steamer

Collets are items you wonder how you got along without...once you have them.

Nice progress Bob.

Dave


----------



## cfellows

Bob, you got me thinking I need to get to work on my ER40 collet chuck form my 11" Logan. I bought a piece of 3" diameter 12L14 just for that but haven't gotten started yet. Nice work on the engine. Sure slows things down when you have to keep stopping to build a tool, huh?

Chuck


----------



## Blogwitch

Just a little off topic here.

For the last couple of years, I have been using ball raced collet nuts. I don't know if they are available in your part of the world, but I use this supplier a lot, and he provides a very good service.

He does them in a variety of sizes, and once the very sharp internal edges have worn off, they really are a great thing. You can actually hand tighten almost enough for the cutter to be held tight enough to be used. It allows you to get around the 'three hands required' syndrome when mounting a cutter in the mill.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ER25-collet-c...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item563e11340a

They are usually in limited quantities, so you have to get them when available. He normally does them in ER 25, 32 & 40.


Bogs


----------



## Maryak

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> Glad you like the collet chuck!
> And a neat example of a home-made D-bit reamer as well ;D
> Regards, Arnold



Thanks Arnold :bow: It's always gratifying when your own tooling does the job. After your very fine effort with the Rotary Table I am sure you know that better than me. ;D



			
				Philjoe5  said:
			
		

> GI appreciate the collet closer discussion here. My friend who recently put me onto a 1940's vintage Logan Lathe is building a collet closer for it. I am new enough at all of this that I did not appreciate how handy they can be.
> Phil



Phil, Thanks for looking in. :bow:.......... A bit like a carriage stop for a lathe, when you have one you wonder how you ever survived without one.



			
				Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I knew you'd enjoy the collet setup!
> Dean



Dean, Thanks for the continued support :bow:...................How right you are. 



			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> Collets are items you wonder how you got along without...once you have them.
> Dave



Dave Thanks for the input. :bow: Well at least I won't die wondering will I. ???



			
				cfellows  said:
			
		

> Bob, you got me thinking I need to get to work on my ER40 collet chuck form my 11" Logan. I bought a piece of 3" diameter 12L14 just for that but haven't gotten started yet. Nice work on the engine. Sure slows things down when you have to keep stopping to build a tool, huh?
> Chuck



Chuck, Thanks for stopping by and the kind words. :bow: You sure are right about progressus interuptus. Much slower and I'll be in reverse.  Still it was worth it and I won't have it to do again.



			
				Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> Just a little off topic here.
> Bogs



John, Thanks for the info :bow:.... it's all grist for the mill, not to mention valuable information.

Thanks again everyone.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ozzie46

Good job on the collet chuck. Now when I can find some time I'll make one. 

  Here time, come on time, come here boy.  ;D ;D ;D


  Ron


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Ozzie, thanks for stopping by and your support. :bow:

Today was one of those days when you seem to be flat out but not achieving very much.  Every set up seemed to take twice as long as it should. Still the head is almost done, just a couple of threads to tap for the carby and exhaust pipe.

The spark plug fitted to the head.







Pressing the valve guides into the head. (What a pain in the posterior it was )






A couple of views of the inserted valve guides.












Ehjoy your hot summer in the North and for us on the other half try not to drown or freeze.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Great job on the head bob!..

.Don't worry, we're toasty warm here in MASS.
(90's , humid)


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Another week and another small part done. 

Dave thanks for the support. :bow:

316 stainless for the valves.






The 1st valve stem complete with collet groove.






Does it fit the guide............YES ;D












One down..........one to go and then the springs and collets. I am somewhat overwhelmed by all the individual parts to be made and this is only a single cylinder  Hats off to Steve and George for their multi cylinder engines where all this is done four or eight times over. :bow:

See Y'all next week.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5

Nice work Bob. I too am amazed at those who build multicylinder IC engines. I often wonder if parts are interchangeable between cylinders of if they are fitted to each cylinder ???. Thanks for the update, and yes, no worries about freezing the pipes here...90 F and HHH!

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Deanofid

Gee, I wish you had more time in your shop, Bob! I always watch for this build.
Glad you got some time today, and good job!

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Phil and Dean,

Thanks for the kind words and support. :bow: :bow:

The vavle bodies are complete and I am reasonably happy with the result.

Step turning the valve stem to allow grooving without bending.






Tapering the valve face






A couple of shots of the head assembly so far.











And on......................and on.....................and etc.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Hi Bob,

Looks real good....what size spark plug is that 10mm?

Dave


----------



## swilliams

Hi Bob

I've been following your thread with interest and think I've been learning a thing or two. Looking forward to more updates


----------



## zeeprogrammer

I've also been following along with interest Bob...and learning.

Steve...welcome to the forum. Hop in the Welcome thread area and tell us about yourself.


----------



## Maryak

Dave,

Thanks for the input - Yes 10mm x 1mm pitch thread on the plug which is, (like 99.9% of things here), made in China.

Steve,

Thanks for stopping by and welcome to our forum. wEc1

Zee,

I notice your putting your holiday time to good use. In Oz we usually navigate by pub locations, this is a 1st, navigation by auto parts stores. Thanks for your continued input.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob

Good to see progress on the engine, I'm like Dean, I look out for your next installment every week.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Deanofid

It's looking good, Bob.  Thm:

That plug may be made in China, but the engine is made in Australia. I hear those
blokes do good work. Keep it up!

Dean


----------



## swilliams

Thanks for the welcome

Zee - will do


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

No installment last week as once more under the knife for skin cancer no.9 removal from my leg, (fortunately, so far, this has been confined to the right and left ones ;D). Stitches out tomorrow so made a trip a day early. Not much to show as my partner in tanks has gone to Canada to buy some fancy machine for treating and bailing hay, thus work got in the way again.

Gavin, Dean and swilliams....................Thanks for the support guys. :bow: :bow: :bow:

A while back Zee suggested I take inventory of what's been done so far...................... here it is.







Drilling the drilling jig to match the head.






The drilling jig set up to drill the waterjacket to locate the head.







Now don't get toooooo excited at such leaps of progress will you. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

;D ;D ;D ;D Thm:

Dave


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Thanks for the pic Bob. Much appreciated to know where you're at.


----------



## ozzie46

Good going Bob. You'll get there. Thm: Thm:

 As far as the cancer, hope you are getting it early enough and all will be well.

 Ron


----------



## Maryak

Dave & Zee,

Thanks guys for your ongoing support. :bow: :bow:

Ron,

Thanks for your support. :bow:

So far I have had clear margins on every one that's been surgically removed only one of those grew so fast I needed a skin graft, the others have been small enough that liquid nitrogen has sent them on their merry way. All in all a great result to date.

Of course had we known 50 years ago what we know today I would have taken a little more care with my "Bronze Aussie" image. 8)

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Of course had we known 50 years ago what we know today I would have taken a little more care with my "Bronze Aussie" image.



Too true Bob, I shudder to think of all those summers we spent peeling great swathes of sunburnt skin off. I can't believe we used to lay on the beach all day until we ended up beetroot red. And aren't we paying for it now. I wonder sometimes what the equivalent will be in 40-50 years for our children.

On brighter note the stock-take of completed parts looks impressive, especially given the difficulties you have getting to the workshop now you live down south. Doesn't matter how long each step takes, I'm still learning things with each installment - thanks for taking the time to document the build.


----------



## Deanofid

Gee Bob, I think if you put all those parts together, you'd just about have an engine. A lot of
work there when we see it all in one spot!

Best wishes for your continued good health. Keep an eye on things, friend!

Dean


----------



## steamer

I remember many miles in the saddle of my bike until I was "Aussie Bronze" too.....We'll see in a few years 

Glad it's all being rapidly and efficiently treated!

Dave


----------



## swilliams

Bob, wishing you the best with getting back on your feet.

The inventory of your engine looks great.


----------



## ariz

Bob, best wishes for a speedy recovery
I have no doubts that you would win that nagging cancer forever, and I'm glad that your third leg is well and untouched 

BTW, great hit & miss engine. is it water cooled? very interesting :bow:


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Dean, Dave, Steve and Ariz,

Guys - Thanks very much for your thoughts and support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: The stitches are out the wound is clean and all is good.

A bonus of sorts with my mate being in Canada is that I get to go to Port Adelaide today so maybe there will be some time left over for the engine after the surveys are complete. 

Best Regards,
Bob


----------



## seagar

Hi Bob I dont usually say much in here but I always follow yours very interesting builds and this one is as usual going great.About your run in with the Doctors knife,I am glad to hear he only cut the left and right legs.

May bee you should have some R&R up at beautiful Coffs Harbour and come and play in my shed.

Best wishes,
Ian (seagar).


----------



## Maryak

Ian,

Thanks for the kind wishes and the R&R. :bow:

My stepson is coming over for a visit in Oct and we intend driving at least as far as Brisbane and then returning the long way via Sydney and Melbourne. Maybe we can catch up then, Coffs Harbour sounds like a good place to find a nice motel for a night. Will keep you posted as things fall into place.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

woohoo1 th_confused0052 :redface2: woohoo1 th_confused0052 :redface2:


Only took 2 weeks to drill 6 holes.






Now That's some head job. :-X


Progress, Progress, Progress, Progress.


Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel

Hmmmm ...... 2.333333333333333333 days per hole - drilling them by the water drip method?


----------



## Maryak

tel  said:
			
		

> Hmmmm ...... 2.333333333333333333 days per hole - drilling them by the water drip method?



Not exactly..................cept the drip operating the drill. *bang* Oh ,
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and then again I did tap them. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel

With a fluid motion, I hope! ;D


----------



## Maryak

tel  said:
			
		

> With a fluid motion, I hope! ;D



Naturally  Ever since I was re-bored, polished and ported, back in 82. A considerable no. of my motions are fluid. :'(

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Way too much information.........seriously, the head looks good.


----------



## Groomengineering

Wow Bob, you're moving right along! It's only taken me about 10 years to get to here.... :big:






Cheers

Jeff


----------



## Maryak

Gavin,

Thanks as ever for your ongoing support. :bow:

Jeff,

That sure looks familiar : Nice flywheels, I have mine 1/2 made from solid. Where did you get the castings ??? and thanks for looking in :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Naturally  Ever since I was re-bored, polished and ported, back in 82. A considerable no. of my motions are fluid. :'(
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Yeah, port will do that.


----------



## Maryak

OK tel,

I SURRENDER ??? ???

And thanks for the support and the humour. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Groomengineering

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Nice flywheels, I have mine 1/2 made from solid. Where did you get the castings ??? and thanks for looking in :bow:
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Hi Bob.

The flywheels are laser cut from 3/4" plate. Dad was working outside sales for a laser outfit at the time so we had a couple sets of frames and flywheels cut. The problem is the cut edges are HARD!!!  Broke up several carbide inserts before deciding the only option was to anneal them. Never got around to it and ended up without a shop for about 8 yrs. Forgot they were even out there until I saw your build. : Guess I'll have to get back on it someday.

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Jeff


----------



## Jack B

Hi Bob: Like a lot of people I have been following your progress on the Hit or Miss Me. You are doing very nice work. 
Back on page 9 on of my build Hit or Miss Claire we discussed soldering the needle valve on these engines. Well no one chipped in with any information so I tried different things and decided to use a set screw to secure the needle. Pictures are on my site if you want to take a look. 
One of these days we should have both of these engines going.  Jack B


----------



## Maryak

Jeff and Jack,

Thanks for stopping by and your support. :bow: :bow:

Things have been going nowhere for a couple of weeks now but..............I hope to do a little more this coming Friday.  

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Hang in there Bob....there's always a lull in the action on any project.

Dave


----------



## krv3000

HI you will get ther brill billd   from bob


----------



## Maryak

Dave and Bob,

Thanks for the support guys. :bow: :bow:

Seems like forever since I last posted and even now this is such a feeble effort. Non the less it is PROGRESS. 

I spent some time pondering how best to lap the valves. In the end I decided that the old way was the best way but I needed a groove across the valve face for a screwdriver, the faces are too small for the old suction cup from a kids bow and arrow set trick, besides Dad "borrowed" all of mine and they're long gone 

Here's what I came up with to make the groove/slot in the face.







After grooving the rest of the day was spent hand lapping and I reckon I'm about 45% done.

We are now on summer time and the central heating is catching its' breath with days 20-25 C.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob, Nice to see you back on the lathe again, cool toolpost grinder.


----------



## Captain Jerry

Progress is progress and anything counts.

Weather here is about the same only headed the other direction. Easing off of the 90-100 F to the 70-80 F. The shop will soon need some heat.

Jerry


----------



## Deanofid

Every little bit is a step ahead, Bob. Thanks for the update!


----------



## arnoldb

Good going Bob 

I've never seen a reference to using a slot on the valve to use a screwdriver to lap it in; thanks for that tip.

 Things sure are starting to heat up for us blokes toward the southern side of the globe now... 

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## ariz

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Seems like forever since I last posted and even now this is such a feeble effort. Non the less it is PROGRESS.




Bob I don't post anything but replies to somebody from long, at least you do some little progress 

go ahead mate (with your time of course)


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Jerry, Dean, Arnold and Ariz,

Thanks for stopping by and your support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

The spring has sprung and so has SWMDBO The paving discussed last winter has now been actioned. It's half finished and I'm completely finished. 2 full days with my Spanish mate Manual Labour and I almost forgot that I did some work on the engine last Friday. :

Also forgot to take the camera. 

Anyway the valves are lapped and sealed to a test pressure of 1 blrf, (bung lung with red face). Valve springs have been sourced from my come in handy box and convinced to fit the valves. I started making the valve and spring keepers and next week camera permitting some pictures will be added.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Go Bob, Go Bob.... ;D

Looking forward to the pictures!

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Dave,

Thanks for the Go Go mo bi le, ( remember them?) :bow:

Well slap me sideways I actually did a bit yesterday and even felt inspired 

A couple of shots of the valves, springs, keepers and "E" clips instead of collets.











Next up was the carrier plate for the rocker arm and push rod.

Setup for drilling the mounting and carrying holes.







This was followed by profiling the plate. About 1/2 way through there was a thunderous bang and my lovely old 3/8" end mill became 2 potential boring bar cutters. I did have a somewhat heated and one sided discussion with the omnipotence upstairs, which made me feel better, however Gabriel explained it was his day off so just buy a new one next week. ;D Next time I wannabe an accountant.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

Maryak  said:
			
		

> About 1/2 way through there was a thunderous bang and my lovely old 3/8" end mill became 2 potential boring bar cutters.



You do have a way with words, Bob. Too bad about the old end mill, but it proves you were doing stuff! 

Dean


----------



## steamer

There's something satisfying about a blown cutter.....I remember the ones I blow up a whole lot more than the ones I just use. ;D :big:


And Yes I do remember Go Go Mobiles.... ;D

dave


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Haven't had much time...but I'm still peeking in once in a while.
I have to...it's interesting stuff.
Keep at it.


----------



## Captain Jerry

Thanks for the lesson, Bob. Now I know the first step in making a boring bar cutter. What's next?

Jerry


----------



## Maryak

Captain Jerry  said:
			
		

> Thanks for the lesson, Bob. Now I know the first step in making a boring bar cutter. What's next?
> 
> Jerry



Bit like a visit to the dentist...............drilling and grinding. : Thanks for dropping by and your support. :bow:

No stuff ups today, (well only a minor one ).

Finished the carrier plate and half made the rocker post.

The trial assembly came out OK, (after I realised I had the rocker post in the wrong side of the plate.....refer to 2 above).












Best Regards
Bob


----------



## swilliams

Nice to see you getting back into it Bob. Is there much to go?


----------



## GailInNM

Looking good, Bob.
I am glad to see you getting back into the shop on a mor regular basis. 
Gail in NM


----------



## Maryak

Steve and Gail,

Thanks for the support. :bow: :bow:

Steve I'm at all the fiddly bits stage and from my perspective there is still quite a lot to do. Every time I read Brian's posts of his Kerzel and his fantastic progress I go green with envy. :

Work got in the way again. A dunnage bin and a fork lift had a meeting. The bin came off 2nd best.  Quarantine would not fumigate it until it was repaired. :'(

With that out of the way, a phone call of Honey Dos was next  and so:

The feeble effort of completing the rocker carrier just made it. :-X






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Today was a day without interruptions.    ;D

First up, I finished the fiddly bits of the cam and gear shaft.






After a bit of thought on how to find a datum for the location of the gear shaft I came up with turning my trammel into an offset trammel. This allowed me to use the centre of the crankshaft as the datum to scribe an arc along which the cam and gear shaft must be located.












This was followed by a partial assembly to find the line of travel of the push rod. 






Where this line and the arc intersected gave me the location of the cam and gear shaft.






This was drilled and tapped to match the shaft.






The gears mated and aligned.












I can now set about bedding in the gears which prudence dictates will be next week.

Have a Great Week-end.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Very clever thinking, the mesh looks good.


----------



## NickG

Nice work Bob, the gears look to be meshing perfectly, doubt if they need any bedding in! :bow:

Nick


----------



## Philjoe5

Great stuff Bob. You're making it look too easy. End results are looking great. Thanks for posting

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Deanofid

Good explanation on depthing the gears, Bob. Everything is looking good!


----------



## arnoldb

Getting along nicely Bob ;D

And I saw another tool for my to-do list :

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Nick, Phil, Dean & Arnold,

Guys thanks very much for your continuing support and encouragement. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:



			
				arnoldb  said:
			
		

> And I saw another tool for my to-do list :



The trammel was a gift from an old (92r) machinist friend of mine. It's a very good Moore and Wright one.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## zeeprogrammer

I have to agree with Phil, you do make it look easy.
The gears look great.


----------



## Maryak

Zee,

Thanks for your continued support and encouragement. :bow:

I think I said earlier that I'm now at the fiddly bits. Well................. here is today's fiddle, the push rod forked end.

The fork marked out.






Almost forked so to speak. 






I'm sure most of you know this trick but for those who may have forgotten, this is one way of holding thin metal so it can be filed flat on its' faces. A lump of wood and some brads. The brads are hammered in and left slightly proud of the metal. The brads and metal are then filed down together to the required thickness.






Mock up of the fork and push rod.






Trial fit of the fork behind the cam.






Another small bite from the elephant has been bitten. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ozzie46

Looking good Bob and thanks for the holding tip. I had not heard of that one before.

  Ron


----------



## joe d

Bob:

Coming along nice. I like that "electrician's" cotter pin... used a lot them over the years. :big:

Cheers, Joe


----------



## arnoldb

Thm: Good going on eating the elephant Bob

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Ron, Joe and Arnold,

Thanks guys for supporting my weakly workday. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Dang me but this baby sure has many small parts and after hobbius Interuptus for half the morning, I only managed half of what I'd intended, (at least the time line was accurate ;D).

The cam roller housing.






Note the vice marks on the face - scientifically designed to take the silver solder :-X , (I remembered the soft jaw on the other vice jaw)






Ready for soldering - the undone half of today's plan. 8)






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

Bite of the elephant...  You must be getting down to the tasty bits by now, Bob. 
Things are looking good.


----------



## Maryak

Dean,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow:

Well - this would have to rate pretty high on the frustration scale.   After much messing around I finally got the three bits soldered together and in some form of reasonable alignment. 











More to follow next time but with Xmas almost upon us and Galina's son arriving from Russia.........we'll see.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Looking like an engine now Bob!  and Well wishes to you and your extended family!

Dave


----------



## NickG

Nice 1 Bob, looking good. :bow:

Nick


----------



## ozzie46

Looking good there Tel

  Ron


----------



## gunna

Hi everyone, I have just read this thread from the beginning and I was so impressed I had to join up just so I could say so. :bow:
Keep us posted, Bob.

Ian


----------



## Maryak

Ian,

Welcome to our forum. wEc1

Thanks for struggling through the thread. :bow:

Kostya went back to Russia today and we have the nervous nellies until he is clear of Domodedovo which is Cathay Pacific's airport in Moscow.  

Friday will I hope, see me back in my shop adding another small part to this project, which seems to be of interminable length.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## T70MkIII

Happy Australia Day, Bob.

You're adding a small part which seems to be of interminable length?  :big:

Looking forward to seeing your progress, as always.


----------



## Maryak

T70MkIII  said:
			
		

> Happy Australia Day, Bob.
> 
> You're adding a small part which seems to be of interminable length? :big:
> 
> Looking forward to seeing your progress, as always.



Damn...........I thought I had the comma in the right place. Your probably right interminable is omnidirectional. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Well I made it to the shop on Friday but the camera stayed home.........."The Golden Years" strike again.........another "Senior Moment."

Managed to make and rivet in place the cam follower roller and make a chuck holder for my hydraulic press. 

The idea is to use a two jaw chuck in the press to hold a piece of 1/8" square tool steel and broach a 1/8" square hole for the push rod in the rocker mount on the head. Next week will see if this is a good or not so good idea.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Another weak :

Well I broached the 1/8" not quite square hole on the rocker carrier plate  A quick swipe or 10 with a file to square it up and voila ;D













Sorry there are no pics of the broaching but I ran out of hands having only been issued with the usual 2, (probably could have done with at least another pair).

The rest of the time was spent setting up the mill to make the governor stop and the points contact, which also need broaching These should be easier as they are brass.

Avagoodweekend

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

Hi bob
The beast is sure starting to take shape now 
after looking at your pics i think ill go to the shed and install the bearing caps on my little Kerzel,
this arvo (my build is really lacking some moving bits to play with ;D)


----------



## Maryak

Metalmad,

Thanks for stopping by. :bow:

I managed to make the points block yesterday so another small step done.

Roughing out the block






The block test fit on the push rod.











Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Looking good Bob! Hang in there buddy....

Dave


----------



## arnoldb

Good going Bob  - Glad to see you got to machine some metal instead of electrons 
You're doing a great job on machining those electrons as well!

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Dave and Arnold,

Thanks for your kind words and continued support. :bow: :bow:

Today I actually feel as if I actually accomplished something, not a lot mind you but something.

Hacking out the rocker arm.






Ready for drilling and fitting to the post and push rod.






Trial fit up.












I have left the rod spring oversize and will sort that out when I have the governor arm sorted and know the lengths of the various bits.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

Looking good Bob
I like the Big models the best (maybe cos I can see em !!) ;D
Pete


----------



## gjn

From little things, big things grow. - Good to see you're getting some time on the engine Bob, it's looking good.


----------



## bearcar1

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Hi Guys,
> 
> Well I made it to the shop on Friday but the camera stayed home.........."The Golden Years" strike again.........another "Senior Moment."



That is why they were designed for wrist straps and fanny packs were invented.. Rof} Rof} Rof}


Your project is developing well Bob, I can remember :shrugreally?) when it was just a set of prints that was a gift from your daughter. (and I couldn't tell you what I had for breakfast this morning, go figure)

BC1
Jim


----------



## Maryak

Pete, Gavin and Jim,

Thanks Guys :bow: :bow: :bow: Your support and humour is most welcome. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Another small step

The governor arm











Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ozzie46

Keep at it Bob. 

 Pretty soon you will have eaten the elephant and wonder where it went.   


  Ron


----------



## tel

The only trouble is, then you have to go find _another_ elephant!


----------



## ozzie46

Yeah Tel, but isn't half the fun selecting the right elephant?  ;D ;D

 Ron


----------



## Maryak

Ron and tel,

Thanks for the continued support. :bow: :bow:

Yesterday was a faffing about day with all the fiddly bits which make up the valve, timing and governor mechanisms. I followed Brian's and now tel's trials and tribulations in this area and alas it's not only the kerzel which has to have considerable departure from the drawings to get things sorted in this area. The next thing is to make the governor bobbin and then I will have a better idea of the bend required for the governor arm.







Best Regards
Bob


----------



## swilliams

Looks like you're into the fiddly stuff now Bob. It's coming along nicely

Steve


----------



## gjn

It's looking suspiciously like an engine now...can't wait for the noise to start. I saw your engine's big brothers up at Mt. Barker last weekend, they sounded good.


----------



## Brian Thomas

Just amazing! I am going to look for one of books of plans. Just too much for words. 
Brian.


----------



## Maryak

Steve, Gavin & Brian,

Thanks Guys for your continued support and interest :bow: :bow: :bow:

More faffing about :

Today I made the rocker arm pin and fitted the arm to the head. I also made a start on the governor ring but round stock is round stock so no piccy ;D

The rocker pin, (plenty of thread..........I only need the last 1/8" but what the hell).






A couple of shots of the arm in situ.












Best Regards
Bob


----------



## GailInNM

Lots of little bitty parts. 
All Looking good.
Gail


----------



## steamer

It IS looking like a big old Hitnmiss though!  I'm digging it Bob!

Dave


----------



## kvom

If you hadn't wasted time in building a house and other unimportant stuff like that, this would be finished by now.  ;D

Still looking in anyway.


----------



## Captain Jerry

Bob

Speed is not all its cracked up to be. PROGRESS, that's the ticket. You really can milk the anticipation.

Jerry


----------



## Maryak

GailInNM  said:
			
		

> Lots of little bitty parts.
> All Looking good.
> Gail



Gail,

Thanks for your support :bow:



			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> It IS looking like a big old Hitnmiss though!  I'm digging it Bob!
> 
> Dave



Dave,

Thanks for hanging in there :bow: As far as digging goes, this one is digging deep into the power of persistence.



			
				kvom  said:
			
		

> If you hadn't wasted time in building a house and other unimportant stuff like that, this would be finished by now.  ;D
> 
> Still looking in anyway.



Kvom,

Thanks for still looking and thanks for the plausible explanation for the delay. :bow: :bow:



			
				Captain Jerry  said:
			
		

> Bob
> 
> Speed is not all its cracked up to be. PROGRESS, that's the ticket. You really can milk the anticipation.
> 
> Jerry



Jerry,

Thanks for the input. :bow: Milking anticipation..................who me ??? More like it's milking away my powers of concentration 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Another small step for, (this), man. :

The governor ring.












Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Dave G

Looks like a very nice engine to me. Dave


----------



## Deanofid

You're gettin' there, Bob. I've missed a couple of updates, but it's looking good. It's going to be
quite a sight when you find the end of it!  ;D

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Dav and Dean,

Thanks for hanging in there guys, I appreciate the support. :bow: :bow:

I managed to drill some holes in one flywheel in preparation for spoking. For some unknown, (senior moment x 5), I tangled my brain and a couple of parts further south.........resulting in in a brain fart of stupendous proportions. I started the 1st slot for the cut out but was not happy so I came home put the flywheel into CAD and it all looks so simple   .

Ah well I guess next week will see me underway complete with idiots guide covering 60o angles. :'(






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

now Ive been here before 
this looks so familiar
coming along Mate


----------



## arnoldb

At least you're making some progress Bob - even if there's a senior moment or so involved. All part of the fun 
I haven't laid a finger on my machines for 6 weeks now; that's a bit frustrating.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## steamer

yea I tend to be rotary table challenged too...don't sweat it....you have a "putting on" machine ..... ;D


----------



## Maryak

MM & Arnold,

Thanks for your understanding guys. :bow: :bow:



			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> yea I tend to be rotary table challenged too...don't sweat it....you have a "putting on" machine ..... ;D



Dave,

Yes I do, however I'm put off about putting on : If my rooster up is of sufficient proportions this will be the recovery method.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Stick with it Bob, it'll all work out in the end.


----------



## T70MkIII

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Ah well I guess next week will see me underway complete with idiots guide covering 60o angles. :'(



That will be pitched perfectly for me, then! Good to see you making headway.

Arnold, I know how you feel - It's been nearly 2 months since I've powered anything up in the workshop (other than the light).


----------



## kustomkb

Good to see you are still at it Bob. It's looking good.

I guess I'm not the only guy plugging away at a 2 year old project.


----------



## Deanofid

Too bad about the boo-boo, Bob. Since I've never made a mistake on spokes or even bolt hole circles, I don't know what to say.
Now, off to say my prayers. "Please forgive me for lying... again."

Hang in there. : )

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Richard, Kevin & Dean,

Thanks guys for your support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Lucky me 

I managed to recover from my brain fart without having to resort to electric glue  

Below is wheel 1. hot off the mill an application of elbow grease combined with my Spanish friend Manuel Labour, should make things OK but I will wait until I have wheel 2. done whilst the set up is fresh in my mind.







Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

looks good Bob
keep at it


----------



## steamer

Ahhh NICE.....get back on that mill and crank the other one out! ;D

Good Onya Bob!

Dave


----------



## tel

ONYA Bob, a very credible looking wheel!


----------



## Maryak

MM, Dave and tel,

Thanks for your input guys. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Following Dave's instruction.................cranking out FW2






Lucky me it's now time for a hand job. :






Only 11 more gaps to file ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Oh that's coming along nicely! How's things Bob!

Dave


----------



## Herbiev

Great work Bob. Pretty hefty looking flywheels. Similar to the wheels on the Noarlunga train


----------



## gjn

Why do you think they've shut the line down, they're still looking for a couple of missing wheels.


----------



## arnoldb

The flywheels came out great Bob :bow:

That Manuel Labour guy seems to get around a lot - he's a good acquaintance of mine as well :big:

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Dave, Herbie, Gavin and Arnold,

Thanks again guys for hanging around. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

There are only so many pictures one can take of a flywheel and I think I've reached my limit 

I am still filing and polishing away at the wheels but I think you get the idea.

Hobbius Interuptus came in the form of a broken latch on one of Galina's, (out of the 100 or so she has), handbags  Die cast rubbish 

My 1st reaction was it's kaput. This brought forth wails of, it's my favourite, I can't find another one of the correct colour, etc. etc. etc. I'm sure you get the picture.  

I applied my years of skill and ingenuity, (thought about it for a couple of minutes), and have drilled down through the latch and its' stem then using copious quantities of Araldite and a suitable brass rod have reassembled the latch and am waiting a week or 2 for it to harden. Then cut off the excess rod and mold it to the top of the latch and polish.

Arghhhh...............the things we do for love. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

;D


----------



## gjn

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Arghhhh...............the things we do for love. ;D



And peace and quiet.......


----------



## shred

Those plated die-cast things are horrible. I've been called upon to try and repair them too. Can't solder them, can't glue them, all you can do is pin and epoxy or make a whole new one.


----------



## Maryak

Dave Gavin and Shred,

Thanks guys :bow: :bow: :bow:

Well again more filing today but the flywheels are ready to fly.

The next thing to tackle is the governor arms pivot. I have been worrying about this small fiddly bit and decided that the best way I could think of to hold it for machining was to glue it to a plate which could be clamped directly to the mill table. I elected to go this route as I needed to find a reasonable way of getting the thickness, 0.059"

There's a plate in there somewhere between the glue, paper and weights to flatten it whilst drying.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

1 step at a time buddy....I'm watching!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Looking good Buddy 
keep after it 
Pete


----------



## Maryak

Dave & Pete,

Thanks guys :bow: :bow:

After my problems with Firefox 4 and photobucket I finally uploaded a couple of piccys.  

The governor bracket.












A couple of hacks and a bit of filing should see me ready to fold the arms to make the hinges for the weights and arms.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ShedBoy

Just read this post from start to finish. Amazing build :bow:.Amazing man :bow: :bow: I am looking forward to seeing this go. Following with interest.
Brock


----------



## steamer

Looking good from here man!

Dave


----------



## metalmad

HI Bob
getting there now mate
what glue did u use on the thin plate mate?
Pete


----------



## Herbiev

Hi Bob
Is it customary to have a bbq christening when firing up a new engine ? I'll keep next weekend free :


----------



## Maryak

Brock, Dave, Pete and Herbie

Thanks for the support guys :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Pete, the glue is Aquadhere, (PVA wood glue).

One step forward..........two steps back. As I was quietly minding my own business and gently hack sawing away the waste on the governor arm bracket, some nameless waif burst into my reverie with one of those, "Got a minute mate," questions.

I should have known better and stopped the mind numbing sawing before answering. Now I know I'm male, because I proved beyond all doubt that I cannot do two things at once. : :

Cut into the bit I needed   

Gentlemen we are now in the process of milling governor arm bracket *NUMBER TWO*

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Blame it on the Waif!... ;D

Sorry to hear buddy...I know you can sort that though..

Dave


----------



## gjn

Maryak  said:
			
		

> One step forward..........two steps back. As I was quietly minding my own business and gently hack sawing away the waste on the governor arm bracket, some nameless waif burst into my reverie with one of those, "Got a minute mate," questions.



I take it that said waif is now singing with a very high pitched voice?

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## ShedBoy

Dam shame, I consider it a win if I only have to do it twice, once for me is a stop and tell someone moment. You could hang it up as a reminder for next time a waif appears. Keep up the good work Bob.

Brock


----------



## arnoldb

Sorry to hear about the mishap Bob - we all know they happen!

 :big: Helping some poor waif sometimes does compensate a bit though; it leaves a "I-helped-someone-now-I-feel-good" personal feeling; that is unless you fixed the neighbour's trumpet :

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Dave, Gavin, Brock and Arnold,

Thanks guys. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Carrier No2.






I now have a week to figure out the best way to roll the 4 arms evenly so they can take 1/16" hinge pins. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Hmmm  can't picture that one Bob...but can't wait for pictures!

Nice Recovery!

Dave


----------



## gjn

Maryak  said:
			
		

> I now have a week to figure out the best way to roll the 4 arms evenly so they can take 1/16" hinge pins. :
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Bob, good luck with the next step, it looks very fiddly. Luckily you have the Mk1 version of the plate to practice on (or did that end up embedded in the waif?)


----------



## ShedBoy

I have had some success with wire edge forming for car panel resto work but not on a section that short. Getting the roll to start in the right spot was always the hardest bit. I ended up with a bead roller to get the majority of it done before inserting the wire and finish rolling it over with a hammer and ground up dolly. After the first few goes I started leaving extra on the length then cutting it to the correct length once it got up to 90 degrees. I am keen to see how you accomplish this.

Brock


----------



## Maryak

Dave Gavin and Brock,

Thanks for the input guys. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Well it's shed day tomorrow so my thinking time is over. 

I had a block clamped across, I had a block clamped along, I marked for 3 bends, (up, over and down). None of it seemed to give me any assurance that it would be successful so guess what ???

I am now about to make *bracket 3* with a modified design viz:-






This will be from solid and should give me a better chance of accuracy and balance for the governor weights.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Armed with my CAD drawing for the redesigned governor bracket, I sallied forth whilst it was still dark, hoping to hit the shop at first light.

Arriving as planned I was greeted with a fresh cup of tea............."Aha, what's up," I thought. You guessed it, I was needed to do some real work. There were four on hire surveys and two hydros.

By the time that lot was under the belt, it was time for the instructional phone call from SWMDBO listing the day's tasks to be performed before returning to the nest.

I did manage to find some 1/4" plate, clamp it to the mill table and mill most of the outline. Suddenly it was "Chore Time."

Photos...............who had time for photos?

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Better approuch in my book buddy. Much more likely to get the holes aligned that way

Give it hell! ;D


Dave


----------



## Herbiev

Hey Bob, next week leave an hour earlier ;D


----------



## Maryak

Dave and Herbie,

Thanks for stopping by.

The governor bracket is made : : :

The milling is complete






Sometimes it pays to have more than one vice.






Finally a bracket has landed.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Way to go Bob! Machine that sucker into submission! ;D....I know Dean, that's your line, but if I use it in a sentence three times It's mine! ;D

Dave


----------



## gjn

Bob, that turned out well, a lot easier than trying to bend up the ears and keep them in line. I wonder how the designer of the engine managed to do it?

When's the start up?


----------



## kvom

I just noticed that we're past 2 years on this build.  ??? ;D

Are we there yet? ;D ;D ;D

I'm still hanging in with you though.


----------



## Herbiev

Looking great Bob. Brilliant thinking :bow:


----------



## metalmad

Whats two years between friends 
its the journey that counts 
Pete


----------



## steamer

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Whats two years between friends
> its the journey that counts
> Pete



I'm all for that!

 :bow:


----------



## Maryak

2 YEARS   

I can't believe I've been beavering away, (Pi$$ing about), that long............ Methinks your average beaver would have built more than one dam in that time. :

Thanks to everybody who has contributed and kept me at it. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

Not if his dam was 40 miles upstream ;D


----------



## Maryak

Herbiev  said:
			
		

> Not if his dam was 40 miles upstream ;D



Thanks Herbie :bow:

Well, the weeks slip quickly by and not much to show. 

The governor bracket is fitted to the flywheel and all seems OK.

The next item is the governor arms. This is another bit consisting of itty bitty bits glued, (silver soldered), together. :-X

Be blowed to that. 

One more I have resorted to carving them from solid and below is the idiots guide to help me on my way. :







Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

Way to go Bob. Hate those itty bitty components. A bit like making tin toys instead of machines :bow:


----------



## Maryak

Thanks again Herbie, I don't know about toys but it sure stains the eyesight :

At last I managed to remove some metal from the governor arms blank. With clamps and clearances I have ended up making them as mirror images. viz:












Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ttrikalin

very nice thread - read most of it yesternight and today 

take care, 
tom in ma


----------



## zeeprogrammer

I'm happy to get back and watch this thread again.
Looks like excellent progress and several parts have been made.

Is it time for a 'family' shot yet?

Seems you were a bit quick with that hand job. : I can't find a pic of the finished flywheel.


----------



## Maryak

Tom and Zee,

Thanks for stopping by. :bow: :bow:

When I get the arms onto the bracket and the bracket onto the flywheel I WILL post ZEE picture. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Tom and Zee,
> 
> Thanks for stopping by. :bow: :bow:
> 
> When I get the arms onto the bracket and the bracket onto the flywheel I WILL post ZEE picture. ;D
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



I'll be watching!.... ;D

Don't pull a "Dave" and let that end mill slip out :big:

Dave


----------



## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> I'll be watching!.... ;D
> 
> Don't pull a "Dave" and let that end mill slip out :big:
> 
> Dave



I'm using an Autolock clone so I fervently hope it wont happen 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

Looking good Bob. Another step closer to completion :bow:


----------



## Maryak

Guys,

No I haven't given up. ;D

I have been busy with making yacht mooring eyes 

I hope next week will see this repetitive but profitable work completed.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

Go make some Money Bob.
We will still be here when u finish :bow:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Wot Pete said!

 ;D


----------



## Maryak

Well, slap me sideways with a wet fish 

PROGRESS

Filing the ends of the governor arms. I used a piece of rod through the bearing holes to give me alignment of the 2 arms and filed them together.






Trial fit up of the arms on the flywheel and shuttle.












The governor weights.






After I fit the weights and make the springs there is not tttooooo much left :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

Bob

Back in the saddle again - good to see it's getting close to completion. 

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## hopeless

A great engine and easy to follow progress with the photos to help :bow:
A lot faster than me I'm afraid but then I tend to go off in tangents 
Pete


----------



## Deanofid

Glad to see some more, Bob! Thanks for the update and pics.


----------



## steamer

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Glad to see some more, Bob! Thanks for the update and pics.



Ditto!

Hope to see more soon!

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Gavin, Pete, Dean and Dave,

Thanks for the support guys. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

I am determined to finish this engine and get it to run. There are so many models and bits I would like to make but I just know if I start something else my chances of returning to an old project are next to none. I have a half built flame licker sitting in a box to prove it. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ozzie46

Bob, Your perseverance in making this model is truly inspiring. 
 Good Show as they say. Can't wait to see it run.

 Ron


----------



## kvom

Aren't you happy to be retired so you can work in the shop all day?  ;D Rof}


----------



## Maryak

Ron,

Thanks for the kind words and support. :bow:

kvom,

Love your sense of humour, great comment. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

At last, some play time 

I have been busy refurbishing ISO tanks relief valves. I has me beat how these vital bits of safety equipment are abused in the field. One lessee requested just put it back and sign off on the tank. The poor valve had been beaten with a big hammer and in no way could or would it operate. I won't repeat my remarks to the lessee but they referred to his legitimacy, an Oz parrot and requirements for a headband. Just to make sure he got the message I doubled the repair price, still much cheaper than a new one, ($AU800).







I tried pressing one of the governor weights onto the lever arm.........result..........2 x 1/2 governor weights. 

Method 2 was to make a collet to hold the lever arm and then machine it to a press fit for the weight viz:


















Can't show the second one because I broke it :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

Looking great Bob. Getting very close now :bow:


----------



## steamer

" I won't repeat my remarks to the lessee but they referred to his legitimacy, an Oz parrot and requirements for a headband."

 Rof}

Sorry to hear about the 2 x 1/2 weight Bob....The next one will go quick....

Dave


----------



## tel

Was the Oz parrot copulating by any chance? For some reason they usually are in those circumstances!


----------



## Maryak

Herbie and Dave,

Thanks guys for stopping by. :bow: :bow:



			
				tel  said:
			
		

> Was the Oz parrot copulating by any chance? For some reason they usually are in those circumstances!



Oddly enough .....................no 

Thanks for your input tel  ;D :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi,

The governor weights are finished and epoxied onto the arms.






I made a start on the cylinder oiler.












During the week I hope to design the governor springs and then wind them next week. Assuming I finish the oiler. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

You'll get'em done!

Dave


----------



## arnoldb

Thm: It's good to see you getting some more done on the engine Bob - keep at it 

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Maryak

Dave and Arnold,

Thanks for the support :bow: :bow:

I did manage to get the springs designed.






Best Regards
Bob 

View attachment H&MGovenor2.pdf


----------



## tel

Strewth! A pink flywheel! Are they putting something in the water down there?


----------



## Maryak

tel  said:
			
		

> Strewth! A pink flywheel! Are they putting something in the water down there?



Only fluoride ;D Methinks that TurboCAD has a problem interpreting colours between the screen and the printer 

After carefully marking my various bits of silver solder to show which was which, I grabbed the wrong one. Naturally I only realised this when the brass began to melt before the solder :'(

Ah well I needed the practice. so here is cylinder oiler No2. using the correct grade of solder. :






The governor weights and levers complete.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## moanaman

You did well Bob when you consider how much time you actually get at the machines. will soon hear the poppin. and bangin.

Barry


----------



## Herbiev

Hi Bob. Sorry to hear about the solder mix up. What is the correct solder for the oiler?


----------



## Maryak

Barry and Herbie,

Thanks for the support guys. :bow: :bow:



			
				Herbiev  said:
			
		

> Hi Bob. Sorry to hear about the solder mix up. What is the correct solder for the oiler?



This is the best I could come up with.................the other one.....................i.e. the one that melted before the brass ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## moanaman

I have SBA45 if you want some. We will be going away next week end for about 2 weeks maybe 3 We should be home Wednesday so you could call in after shopping.


----------



## ShedBoy

Getting close now Bob. I am itching to see this one going. Have you picked a color yet? 
Brock


----------



## Maryak

moanaman  said:
			
		

> I have SBA45 if you want some. We will be going away next week end for about 2 weeks maybe 3 We should be home Wednesday so you could call in after shopping.



Thanks Barry, :bow: see ya Wednesday. I'll give you a bell when we leave Seaford.



			
				ShedBoy  said:
			
		

> Getting close now Bob. I am itching to see this one going. Have you picked a color yet?
> Brock



Brock, colour...............when I think of all the things I will probably have to re-make and then all the things I should bling ??? ??? ???

Would you care to make some suggestions..........for colour that is ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ShedBoy

How about working clothes. Denso tape the important bits then let it rust in the garden, paint it with clear with a flattening agent to stop it shining. 
Rust is a colour. Not trying to offend.
Brock


----------



## Maryak

ShedBoy  said:
			
		

> How about working clothes. Denso tape the important bits then let it rust in the garden, paint it with clear with a flattening agent to stop it shining.
> Rust is a colour. Not trying to offend.
> Brock



Brock,

No offense taken  Interesting concept and one I would never have thought of. A close inspection suggests to me I will need some bog here and there, followed by paint to hide the bog. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Lack of Progress Report 

1st it was tanks tanks and more tanks 

2nd Severe chest pain, a ride in an ambulance and 2 days in hospital before they decided I had a bad dose of viral pluresy.   At least I can breathe on my own again and am home being waited on hand foot and finger ;D 

Ah well next week should see me making springs. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

Glad your on the mend Bob
Pete


----------



## steamer

Geez Bob! I'm glad your alright!  Stay on the mend and away from the Tanks!

Dave


----------



## Captain Jerry

Bob - There is no way to enjoy an ambulance ride! That pluresy stuff can be painful and scary but I'm happy to see you're on the mend!

Jerry


----------



## gjn

Bob

Sorry to hear you've been crook, look after yourself and enjoy the attention of her indoors.

Gavin


----------



## Maryak

Pete, Dave, Jerry and Gavin,

Thanks for the support guys. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ShedBoy

Sounds like a presrciption of shed time is needed. Good to see your feeling better Bob.
Brock


----------



## Herbiev

Hi Bob. Quite a shock to the system but glad to hear you're on the mend. I'm afraid to say that getting the after-taste of that hospital food out of the system takes a little longer. Enjoy the pampering and Galina's cooking and hope to catch up again soon. 
Best wishes
Herbie


----------



## moanaman

Hi Bob,
 Glad you are on the mend. I go away for a couple of weeks and you mess up.  The ambulance ride would not be good either with your complaint. SA ambulances are the roughest things to ride in except possibly the little old 3 cylinder 2 stroke Suzuki 4WD.
Make sure you are truly better before taking the long trip to the workshop.

Cheers
Barry


----------



## Maryak

Brock, Herbie and Barry,

Thanks Guys. :bow: :bow: :bow:

I am not going to the Port this week and already I am having withdrawal symptoms  A week off now is better than the alternatives. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## dsquire

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Brock, Herbie and Barry,
> 
> Thanks Guys. :bow: :bow: :bow:
> 
> I am not going to the Port this week and already I am having withdrawal symptoms  A week off now is better than the alternatives. :
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Hi Bob

I am glad to see that you realize that taking a bit of time now means less down time in the future. It took me a lot of years to figure that one out. Good to hear your on the mend. :bow: :bow:

Cheers 

Don


----------



## Harold Lee

Bob - Glad it worked out ok... Mine ended is a hextuple bypass... But get in the shop and make some chips!!! 

Harold


----------



## cfellows

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Lack of Progress Report
> 
> 1st it was tanks tanks and more tanks
> 
> 2nd Severe chest pain, a ride in an ambulance and 2 days in hospital before they decided I had a bad dose of viral pluresy.   At least I can breathe on my own again and am home being waited on hand foot and finger ;D
> 
> Ah well next week should see me making springs.
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



Bob,

I've suffered from that off and on for many years. The pain is memorable...

Chuck


----------



## Maryak

Harold & Chuck.

Thanks for the support guys. :bow: :bow:

Yes, on a scale of 1 - 10 I'd give the pain an 8 or 9.

My partner in tanks is having a sojourn to Singapore and Taiwan so I am holding the fort. No modeling - too busy on the repairs to tanks. They may be OK on most modes of transport but the Simpson Desert sure sorts them out, more cracks in the frame than you can poke a stick at, plus of course a roll over, which was a write off, with all the attendant documentation.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Bob, I am more than happy that your feeling better!

What in the world is contained in one of these tanks....and what do the tanks look like?....and how does the Simpson Desert sort them?....Inquiring minds gotta know!

 ;D

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000

Hi Dave

I hope Bob won't mind if I chip in on his thread.
Over here the word tank has a lot of uses, generally describing something that contains some sort of a liquid a few examples for you below.






















That last one is an earth wall water tank 500 meters x 500 meters probably 3 to 4 meters deep in the cotton growing area near Dalby Queensland.

The Simpson Desert - it's just a rough sandy patch along the road between Mt Isa and Adelaide roughly the size of US state of Texas (not the Town in Queensland) Tends to Break trucks that aren't well built.


Hopefully Bob can fill in anything I left out.



Bez


----------



## Maryak

Most bulk liquids from wine and spirit through to some of the very nasty acids and bases associated mostly with mining. They hold an average 26000l or around 6800 US gals.

There are minimal if any roads to some of the drill sites where the tanks are swapped. The rigidity of the tank versus the flexibility of the trailer means they are overloaded on each corner and the frames stress crack.

A 20' shipping container is a box with 4 corner posts. Instead of a box, a tank is mounted in the same sized frame and corner posts hence anything capable of carrying a 20' shipping container can carry these tanks i.e. road, rail and sea. They are logistically handled in exactly the same way as a shipping container.

Because they are a pressure vessel, especially the ones used for various gases, they are subject to a high degree of testing and control as well as stringent cleaning procedures. Usually, once a tank is used for food grade products it remains in that area for its' life, (around 20 years). The worst thing is that edible oils fit the food grade category and cleaning for a next cargo of say Ethanol is a right PITA as is certifying cleanliness after such an operation.

Aren't you glad you asked ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Aren't you glad you asked 



YES actually I am!  I was familiar with the road train trucks and such and of course all the other forms of "tank" but was curious as to which ones you had to deal with.  Now I know.

Didn't know they made them "container" size, but that makes perfect sense.

Thanks Mate!

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Woo Hoo,

The springs are sprung ;D ;D

Apologies for the terrible photo Only had my phone and I suppose it's better than nothing. 






I used the LH sparey set up for the springs found in his book "The Amateurs lathe." In addition I had a back block of hardwood which enabled better control of the tension.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

Any picture is better than none. Must be getting close to completion now Bob.


----------



## gjn

Good to see you back on deck Bob.

Rgds - Gavin


----------



## Maryak

Herbie and Gavin,

Thanks for the continued support. :bow: :bow:

Stardate 2511001111J

Opened my idleshop door and bugger me old H&M was sitting right where I left it 3 weeks ago 

I think there should be a carby in here somewhere 








Yep just enough for the body. 







Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

all down hill now mate 
looking Good :bow:
Pete


----------



## ShedBoy

Feels good to be back in the shed doesn't it. Looking forward to seeing it run Bob.

Brock


----------



## seagar

Hi Bob,I am really enjoying following this build of yours.Thanks for sharing.

Ian


----------



## Teza

Hi Bob, 

Found this build thread a few weeks ago and was inspired to join the forum ;D although a little daunted by the work in this build as I purchased this set of plans a couple of months ago 
Keep up the good work mate, hope you have no copywrite on some of your mods :

Terry


----------



## AussieJimG

As usual, a day late and a dollar short! I just found this thread and will be following it through to the conclusion. I plan to start reading at the beginning over Xmas and read through to the end. I would start now but I need some shed time after reading the thread on Chuck's Plumbing Parts engine.

Good luck Bob, and Merry Xmas
Jim


----------



## Maryak

Pete, Brock, Ian, Terry & Jim,

Thanks guys for your input and support. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

I am sorry things have been quiet on the model front but with the silly season almost upon us I have been sidetracked into all sorts of things that have made my workshop busy with 12":1ft.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

No worries Bob....I know where your at!  ;D

Nice looking carb blank....I like the shoes too! ;D

Dave


----------



## Deanofid

Nice to see the shoe shot, Bob, just to know you're still at it!

Dean


----------



## Maryak

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Nice to see the shoe shot, Bob, just to know you're still at it!
> 
> Dean



Yep, the old Boiler Boot shuffle................I'm so thrilled you and steamer noticed. :

A little more.

The carby blank and a bit of copper for the exhaust. I stopped off at Hobby Habit on my way home and found a needle valve and body from a model race car engine which looks about right so I will fit that next week.








Thanks to Herbiev I have some Corian and used it for making the points block insulators.........Thanks Herb.













Next week may see me amp up and then it's Xmas.............................so......................

*MERRY XMAS TO ALL*

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

You are most welcome Bob. Thank you for all the valuable advice with my build. Merry Christmas to you and Galina and to all the HMEM members out there.


----------



## AussieJimG

Thank you Bob, I have read right through from the start and it has been (and still is) a great journey. Best reading for a while. I even took it with me on our annual Ho Ho Ho run to see the family in Sydney; it helped to keep me (relatively) sane.

Seeing you deal with the problems and reading the comments from others who also do not always get everything right first time gives me heart; it is not just me.

Merry Xmas and I will be watching to see it running.

Jim


----------



## moanaman

You getting close now just waiting for the starting up party down the Port. 
Barry


----------



## gjn

moanaman  said:
			
		

> You getting close now just waiting for the starting up party down the Port.
> Barry



Amen to that, have a good break Bob.


----------



## steamer

Looking Good Bob!  other than no boots this time :-[


Merry Christmas to you too my friend!


And to all of HMEM!

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Herbie, Jim, Barry, Gavin & Dave,

Thanks for the support guys.

Well I did amp up today but not on the model...............played with my new welder/cutter. I sliced, diced. frigged and tigged around for most of the morning and I am pleased to report everything works as advertised. After my old clunker I can't believe how quiet it is and how easily it strikes an arc and maintains it.

Of course it would not weld a battleship but for my kind of work it's a ripper.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

Well done Bob. What species of welder/cutter did you get. Got some pictures for us. You will wonder how you ever managed without one.


----------



## tel

Yes indeed - more info needed here!!!!

... and just when I thought I had all the gizmos I needed! ???


----------



## Maryak

Thanks for the Interest.

It's a Mishto 10-120amp TIG, 20-110amp MMA and 15-30amp cutter. Cuts up to 5/16" plate. Will just do a 3.2mm electrode and holds max 3.2mm titanium rod but so far I have only tried 2.4mm. Only DC so no aluminium welds,


















Came with all the goodies except the titanium electrodes but.................................my friends at the ship yard will supply me with Argon, I just have to leave a note in my will that the bottle is theirs. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gbritnell

Nice looking welder there Bob. Sort of an early Christmas present!
You and your family have a wonderful Holiday.
gbritnelll


----------



## Maryak

George,

Thanks for stopping by :bow: 

I have had this on my mind for over 6 months and have been putting a little aside each fortnight to arrive at the cost, which coincided with my birthday/Xmas. 

I hope you and yours have a great Festive Season.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

2012 and I'm still faffing about with this engine 

I fitted the needle valve to the carby body. 






Next I made a couple of mounting feet which you can see sitting under the body, (I hope).






Now all I need is some Argon and I can weld them in place.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Gotta get me a welder one of these days! Looks good Bob!


Dave


----------



## gjn

If you get stuck for Argon, you are welcome to come and use my MIG.


----------



## Maryak

Thanks Dave and Gavin, :bow: :bow:

I'm not stuck for Argon I just have to wait for a FREE bottle until next week. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Teza

Don't give up Bob we're hanging out to see this thing run  
Terry


----------



## Maryak

Terry,

Thanks for the support. :bow:

Yesterday I pulled the beast apart so I could weld the feet onto the base. 













This also allowed me to remove the excess lubricator tube poking into the cylinder.






The points and a fuel tank are all that is left before we find out what has to be fixed to make it a runner. Then the dreaded bling/paint, (easy when you type it quickly).

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Teza

??? paint and bling :'( I thought that was something the missus does :big:
Terry


----------



## ShedBoy

I am eagerly waiting for the run up. As for paint working clothes, wd 40?

Brock


----------



## swilliams

Looking forward to seeing this fire up Bob

Cheers
Steve


----------



## tel

.. as are we all!


----------



## steamer

Getting there Bob....bore looks real nice!
Dave


----------



## Harold Lee

Bob, your engine is sure shaping up nicely. I really admire a person's ability to weld up an engine and make it look like castings. Keep it up!!!

Harold



			
				Swarfdweller  said:
			
		

> ??? paint and bling :'( I thought that was something the missus does :big:
> Terry



No Terry... When the missus does it we call that "Lipstick & Mascara". Paint and bling is a guy thing. Think of some of the rock stars with all of the gold chains and big rings.


----------



## Maryak

Terry, Brock, Steve, tel, Dave and Harold.

Thanks to you all for your input, support and kind words. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

I wish I was at the Bling/ paint stage. With your workmanship it requires very little bling and a bit of paint. Mine is a different kettle of fish. Is there any such thing as colored bling? :big:


----------



## Maryak

Herbiev  said:
			
		

> With your workmanship it requires very little bling and a bit of paint.



That's coz you haven't seen it up close. 

Another day and a small step forward.

The points block and striker.







When I looked at this photo, I'm glad I took it. As you can see my small OS caliper points need refurbishing. 






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys,

Today saw me silver solder the points striker to the water tank side. Thanks to Moanaman, (Barry G), for his kind donation of a couple of sticks of silver solder. By silver solder I mean hard solder or as some of us call it................ Silver Brazing.

Looking back over things I've missed I realised I hadn't drilled the water cooling holes for the head. Got that done too.

Just when I think I'm ready to assemble for a trial, I think of something else, like a couple of oilers for the mains. Those little fiddly bits take an amount of time inversely proportional to their size.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

Sounds like you are very close to getting her running Bob,
Do you mind if I pull up a chair? 
Pete


----------



## arnoldb

> Those little fiddly bits take an amount of time inversely proportional to their size.


Too true...

Thm: Glad to see you're getting a bit more shop time of late Bob.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## gjn

Good stuff Bob, it's good to see it's getting close. FYI - It's big brothers will be on display at the "Power of the Past" at Mt. Barker in a month.


----------



## tel

> Sounds like you are very close to getting her running Bob,
> Do you mind if I pull up a chair? Smiley
> Pete



Just bring your own peanuts Pete!


----------



## steamer

I'll bring the popcorn and we can split it!
 ;D

Keep at it Bob....your almost there. th_wav

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Popcorn, peanuts and a little beer :big:
This could be a good show! ;D
Pete


----------



## Maryak

Pete, Arnold, Gavin, Tel & Dave,

Thanks guys :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Today I made a start on the fuel tank. The tank is the easy bit once agin its all the add on's like fillers, syphons and breathers.

Forgot the camera AGAIN :-[

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Teza

That's my trick Bob, every time I do some thing I look at it and realize I forgot to take pictures doh :-X
Terry


----------



## gabby

Hi there Bob,
         I too have only just caught up with your extremely well communicated thread, you have set a very high bar for the rest of us meer swarf dwelling chip makers (speaking for myself of course).
Mate, I would be so proud if I only got a piece of metal to make a noise (putter putter) but hey, I guess you started there somewhere to, so I will continue to follow your build with utter awe and try to emulate the quality of your building talents.
Cheers
Graham

p.s. do you have threads on previous builds ? :bow:
When do we see it run ? pleeaaasssseeeeee.


----------



## Maryak

Terry,

Thanks for your support :bow: This week I brought the camera 

Graham,

Thanks for stopping by and your kind words of encouragement. :bow: There are a couple of others, "Maryak 10" and "3cc diesel my 1st ICE." They are both in the "Work in Progress" section somewhere.

Real work got in the way today so not much to show..................Isn't it the way, leave the camera at home and you could have shot a few, bring it and lucky to get 1 shot.

And here is this Cecile B DeMille rendition of the bits for the fuel tank.






I also managed to make a start on the mandrels to have a go at metal spinning the end plate flanges. The thing should also double as a hanger oner for machining the ends circular, (I hope).

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

I like copper tanks!

Dave


----------



## Maryak

Dave,

Thanks for your continued interest. :bow:

After a small interruption whilst I replaced the rear vision mirror on a vintage US car, (bloody great big thing of chrome and steel, with a smallish side valve six cylinder), I did manage to make my mandrel and had my 1st go at metal spinning.

Here is the mandrel which grips the disc. The 120grit emery is held on with super glue.






The disc mounted and turned to size






After spinning the 1st end plate, this is a mock up showing the tool and post. I was very surprised at how much pressure it took to actually fold over the end. To do this all day I'd want a much longer bar and a bigger lathe.






The end plate fitted to the tank






I did manage to make the other end before I called it a day as the shop reached blood heat.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## AussieJimG

It probably looks better spun, but I just gently tapped it over with a hammer and a block of wood. Hardly left any marks and they were easily removed. Besides, they are all inside the tube and they help with the soldering.

Jim


----------



## steamer

Looks great Bob! 

I've been meaning to make two spun brass cylinder covers for my launch engine....just never got up the gumption....

Next Winter's project!

That looked like it went pretty well, ...did you just polish a sphere onto the rod?
And were you able to do it in one go, or did you have to anneal it in between?

I like the simple tool rest for it......and the shoes of coarse... ;D

Dave


----------



## Teza

Great work Bob, I read the other day that proper spinning tools are 4 feet or more long and are placed right up to your armpit so you can lean on it with your full weight scratch.gif
obviously needs more power Thm:

Regards
Terry


----------



## Herbiev

Superb job on the metal spinning. Looking forward to seeing the end product


----------



## Maryak

Thanks Jim, Herbie & Terry, :bow: :bow: :bow:




			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> That looked like it went pretty well, ...did you just polish a sphere onto the rod?
> And were you able to do it in one go, or did you have to anneal it in between?
> 
> I like the simple tool rest for it......and the shoes of coarse... ;D
> 
> Dave



Dave,

Yes I just polished the end of the rod. Now that I know this can be successful, I will may a more fancy one. I annealed before I started and it went OK in one go. Oh and did I mention I used tallow as the lube ??? Anyway with steel on copper seemed not to make much difference other than in letting the emery lose some of its' grip.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

The Clockmaker W.R. Smith recommends a 50-50 mix of motor oil and bar soap chips made by carving slivers of soap off the side of the bar with a knife....sounds really messy to me.

Dave


----------



## NickG

Nice work Bob, I was just about to ask if you'd annealed it as I hadn't read all the other comments properly! :-\ When beating them you often have to anneal it multiple times so you did well to do it in 1 go.


----------



## tel

> . I annealed before I started and it went OK in one go.



Hmmm ... probably at some risk to the integrity of the copper - ok for a tank perhaps,_ not_ for boiler work. Other than that it came out well.

Just a tip tho, for next time - a smallish ball race bolted to the end of a bit of square bar and held in the tool post will make life easier for small flanged work like that. You may have to alter the angle of approach a couple of times to get it tho (between annealings  )


----------



## gabby

Hi all, I seem to remember seeing a semiautomatic machine somewhere, where the shaping bar was hydraulically operated, so I guess that would take the "Armstrong back stretcher" out of the equation, also the machine was spinning a large disk (6' or more).
Ah the memory slowly returns, the company was a boiler manufacturing plant and the disk was probably an end dome for a large vessel of some sort and made of steel.
Keep up the amazing work :bow:   :bow:


----------



## fcheslop

Hi Bob,the spoon needs to be polished and I find it better to work below centre height if the going is tough it either needs annealing or the spoon is at the wrong position its a matter of sucking and seeing nice job on the engine. 
This is a re-pro Doll boiler made from 0.6mm brass I know brass is really a no no .The original is over 100 years old.
If the pic is a prob I will remove it





best wishes Frazer


----------



## Maryak

Dave, Nick, tel, Gabby and Fraser,

Gentlemen thank you very very much for support input and additional tips/tricks. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Fraser the picture is absolutely no problem, if anything it adds to the spinning discussion.

One thing I found difficult was to get the tool to the correct starting point. Should the tool be smaller or should the tailstock mandrel be smaller ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## fcheslop

Hi Bob,I'm not very good at explaining so here goes.
The spoon I use for up to 1.5mm thick copper or brass is 3/8 dia about 10 inches long and has a 3/4 inch long curve polished on the end.If you make the tailstock mandrel smaller than the former the metal will bump up and form a dish a handy feature if you want it The starting point I find is tilt the tool about 3/4 to 1 inch below centre height and move the tool in a arc towards the headstock then reposition the rest and repeat for simple flanges l find 2 annealings are sufficient the little funnel top took 3 and the lathe was running at 1500rpm.
If need be I can do a couple of pics of my set up but its difficult to take action shots Iv only got two hands :big:
I fought shy of spinning for many years but use it a lot now its so handy for funnels,cylinder covers and burners it really is a useful thing to learn.
The best lube is Tallow or soap and oil mix I find although at a pinch grease and cutting oil works well.I'm self taught so can only say what works for me
Best wishes Frazer


----------



## Maryak

Thanks Fraser, :bow:

I understood that OK and next week I will find some 3/8" rod, spoon the end and polish it. Old habits die hard and going below centre makes perfect sense once it's pointed out.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## fcheslop

Hi Bob, I know what you mean about working below centre height it took me a while to twig :big: it may also be beneficial to have a little more allowance on the blank to push of.If you find it hard to remove the part from the former heat it up the trapped air usually pops it off
Happy spinning.
best wishes Frazer


----------



## NickG

Nice work Frazer,

Now you come to mention it Tallow that makes perfect sense, our company used to make brass cartridge cases formed from a disc about 1 1/2" thick into a case about 2 feet long and tallow was the lubrication for that!

Nick


----------



## Deanofid

That came out well, Bob. I've never tried spinning with a spoon. Just use a ball bearing in a tool post setup.






Annealed after each couple of passes so as not to crack the brass. (This one is for a toy boiler.)








If the bearing leaves marks, a skim off the flanges will clean it up.









One of the end caps.








And one in the boiler, the other showing at right of the picture. These were for a repair job for a fellow a while back.
As is usual, there are a few different ways to get things done. I'd like to try the "spoon" way sometime, but my lathe might be to small for that. 

Thanks for the progress shots, and the shoes, again! 

Dean


----------



## fcheslop

Hi Dean I know guys who spin on the mini lathes although they have had to replace the headstock bearings.I find that if the material is annealed and the tool in a good position you do not have to force the the material at 10 hernias pressure it flows. The spoon I use is only 10 inches long
best wishes to all.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

I've been watching this thread since it began (granted off and on  ).
Happy to see the progress.
Give us a warning when you're ready for showtime.
I don't want my jelly jar to be wanting.


----------



## gabby

I even snuck out of work early to see if it was a runner yet, ssshhhhh don't tell the boss ;D 
I must say the lesson on metal spinning was most interesting and I will be experimenting with some fuel tank ends soon myself.
I wanna see a runna pleeeeaaaasssseeeeeeeeeee! :bow:


----------



## Maryak

Frazer, Nick, Dean, Zee and Gabby,

Thanks for your support and instruction. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Well, I'm all tanked up and my mate has offered to polish it  Never one to look a gift horse in the mouth I gave him the shop keys.

Profiling the bosses.






The completed tank.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## metalmad

Looking great Bob.
Tell your Mate I want to be friends woohoo1
Pete


----------



## steamer

Yeah! and does he have a passport! ;D

Dave


----------



## Deanofid

Looks good, Bob! Small enough that you won't even have to use your credit card to fill it, too.


----------



## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> Yeah! and does he have a passport! ;D
> 
> Dave



 :bow:

Actually he is a dinky die 4th generation Oz. Which is more than I, a 1st generation pommy immigrant, can say.


Pete and Dean,

Thanks for looking in. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Wow,

A whole morning....................minus telling neighbourhood stories......................minus a trip to the shipyard more lies and some TIG instruction plus a piece of 3" boiler tube................minus 3 cups of tea and too many fags and finally DA DA 













I know a competent machinist could have made them in 10 mins................... a retired machinist, all bloody day. 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kvom

Watching this thread is like watching one of Zee's projects.  ;D :big:

Fire that thing up already  woohoo1


----------



## Teza

Bob
The pleasure of life is not about the destination, but about the journey and this one is an epic journey 

Cheers
Terry


----------



## steamer

Hey Bob,

I'll be here till ya done mate!  and then some! :bow:

Dave


----------



## Deanofid

Well, they look very nice, Bob. Doesn't matter how long it took. Heck, some days I go into the
shop and come out hours later with nothing new built at all. It's a retirement luxury, I figure.


----------



## Maryak

Kvom, Terry, Dave and Dean,

Thanks Guys for hanging in there :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Last week was a dead duck...............The admin staff from the Russian Embassy were in town.............Of course SWMDBO had reams of paperwork to be stamped and verified for her pension..............Not big money but better in our pocket than Putin's.

Today was a better day...............After thinking about it on and off I finally decided that I didn't like the rocker arm, principally because there was no adjustment.

The solution was to make a new one with a tappet. 

The old and the new. See I even drilled the hole correctly







The new one fitted up.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Teza

Nice mod Bob :big:

Terry


----------



## steamer

Looks good from here Bob! Glad you sorted out the Russian govt!
 ;D
Dave


----------



## gjn

It's looking perilously close to ready to run Bob. The tappet looks very professional


----------



## AussieJimG

Should be anytime soon Bob.

Jim


----------



## Herbiev

Good thinking Bob :bow:


----------



## Deanofid

Some valve adjustment is always nice, Bob. Lookin' good!


----------



## Maryak

Terry, Dave, Gavin, Jim, Herbie & Dean,

Thanks guys for the words of encouragement and support :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

This last week was very ordinary. On Monday the DVD died, then on Wednesday so did SWMDBO's laptop. All in all I was more than a little miffed 

Not much to report on the engine front. I did manage to drill and tap the flywheels. A broken tap did little to assist progress. Most of the morning was spent getting the damn thing out without damage to the flywheel and you would know it was the one with the governor weights riveted in place  

The set up for drilling the flywheels for their grubscrews.






Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer

Looking good Bob.....C.O.R.!......don't let a pesky broken tap get in the way! ;D ( easy for me to say! :)

Dave


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Bob,
I think of all the machining jobs I hate the worst it's drilling and tapping the flywheels. I try to keep the angle as shallow as possible which sometimes necessitates making extended drills and taps. I try to tap while I have the job set up as it's hard to eyeball the drilled angle to run the tap in after it's removed from the machine. 
gbritnell


----------



## Teza

Hi Bob, 
I'd been wondering how I'd managed to have a few smooth weeks, seems Murphy has been down your way ;D 
Cheers
Terry


----------



## db6261

Will there be a video of it running? ??? ;D


----------



## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> Looking good Bob.....C.O.R.!......don't let a pesky broken tap get in the way! ;D ( easy for me to say! :)
> 
> Dave



Dave, I tried not to but my cardiologist would have been less than impressed



			
				gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Hi Bob,
> I think of all the machining jobs I hate the worst it's drilling and tapping the flywheels. I try to keep the angle as shallow as possible which sometimes necessitates making extended drills and taps. I try to tap while I have the job set up as it's hard to eyeball the drilled angle to run the tap in after it's removed from the machine.
> gbritnell



Thanks for the tip George, :bow: just another case of more haste and less speed.



			
				Swarfdweller  said:
			
		

> Hi Bob,
> I'd been wondering how I'd managed to have a few smooth weeks, seems Murphy has been down your way ;D
> Cheers
> Terry



I think Murphy has taken up residence under the mill table.



			
				db6261  said:
			
		

> Will there be a video of it running? ??? ;D



Only if it runs  :

Thanks Guys. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gjn

It WILL run - no question about it. We have faith : : :


----------



## steamer

C.O.R.

translation

Carry On Regardless!..........just making sure your cardiologist understood.... ;D

You bet your lilly white )(*&@& it's going to run! woohoo1

Dave


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## Maryak

steamer  said:
			
		

> C.O.R.
> 
> translation
> 
> Carry On Regardless!..........just making sure your cardiologist understood.... ;D
> 
> You bet your lilly white )(*&@& it's going to run! woohoo1
> 
> Dave



A couple of things about COR

In Oz it stood for Commonwealth Oil Refineries which were subsequently part of the BP group.

Also there was an Australian whiskey called Corio.............for those who partook, it was known as COR 10 which was a pretty accurate description of taste and lubricity.

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer

Well I can certainly understand why it would take some COR to COR.... ;D

Dave


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## gabby

Hi all,
    Running is not an option in this case, it's *bloody mandatory*
Cheers
Graham :big:


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## tel

I remember Corio! Didn't they used top make it out of metho and brown boot polish?


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## Maryak

tel  said:
			
		

> I remember Corio! Didn't they used top make it out of metho and brown boot polish?



That was the high quality stuff which came with a label and a proper cork IIRCC 

Best Regards
Bob


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## zeeprogrammer

I'm with Graham. MANDATORY.

I remember when this thread started.
I want to remember its end.
The end is memorable too.

 ;D


----------



## gabby

yes, I think most of us that have been watching with a very healthy interest in how the engine was made and how the challenges were overcome, I feel most or all of us would agree that you are a very talented engineer with an extremely keen eye for detail and a view in your minds eye on how it will look in completed form. 

I have been following this with a very keen eagerness to see and hear it run.
many thanks for showing us your build and in doing so I for one have learned so much from your very instructive dialog. :bow: :bow: th_confused0052
Cheers
Graham


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## Maryak

Zee and Graham,

Thanks guys for your kind words and support. :bow: :bow:

On Thursday I had a trial assembly and the bad news is :

1. A water leak which I suspect is associated with one of the bottom cylinder mounting bolts.

2. There is more compression after a feed of Brussel Sprouts than the engine has. 

I feel the need to remove the valves and cage them.

I hope nobody is holding their breath. :

Best Regards
Bob


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## metalmad

Hi Bob
few minor teething problems Mate, sounds like u are on the home stretch now :bow:
I'll just pull up a chair, I don't hold my breath that well :big:
Pete


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## gjn

Bob

You need to learn management-speak, apparently there are no such things as problems, they are opportunities. You just have a few opportunities : : :


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## Maryak

Hi Pete,

Thanks for stopping by and your support. :bow:



			
				gjn  said:
			
		

> Bob
> 
> You need to learn management-speak, apparently there are no such things as problems, they are opportunities. You just have a few opportunities : : :



Hi Gavin,

I once went for a job interview. About half way through, I realized they were playing with me and just going through the motions IAW departmental policy, and the successful applicant had been preselected. So, when they asked me did I have any questions...........I asked "What performance targets have been set?" "Oh," said the head poobar of the panel, "We don't have targets, we have outcomes." "I'm sure you do," I replied. "But are they desirable outcomes!"

After a hostile glare from the head poobar.............. "Thank you for your time, Bob, we'll be in touch."

Needless to say I did not get the job. 

At the moment my opportunity is designing the valve cages with my CAD program.







Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak

Well, my foray into valve cages was short lived 

The cage interfered with the sparkplug so guess who's making a new head ;D Not to mention a quick mod to the sparkplug body

Best Regards
Bob


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## gjn

Bugger! Commiserations Bob.


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## gabby

Damn don't ya just hate it when that happens, still, "nothing ventured....." :-\ 
(but i will steal your cage design if you don't mind Thm
Cheers
Graham ;D


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## Teza

Don't tell me that Murphy has let the chinaman move in under the mill table as well 
It would be nice if you could catch a break sometime soon. 
Chin up mate we're all cheerin for you  Thm:

Terry


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## Maryak

Gavin and Graham,

Thanks for your continued support. :bow: :bow:

Despite rumours to the contrary, I have not given up  I have almost finished my new head job ;D

Today I went to get some Loctite 620 for the valve cages. At the moment, brandy in hand, I am reeling from the quoted price, $50 for a small bottle.  Needless to say I didn't part with any cash and am meditating on alternatives. It seems that most of the epoxy glues are good for up to 1800 C. But I'm wondering if that is high enough for the exhaust valve. Loctite 620 is rated at 4500 F say 2300 C.

Any suggestions would be most welcome.

Best Regards
Bob


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## gabby

Hi ya Bob,
       I have an affinity for easy-flo which done carefully and with an even heat distribution, should be more than adequate for your needs and you probably have some just laying around.
You may have to do a little hand lapping to seal the deal so-to-speak, veola, job done.
Cheers
Graham


----------



## Herbiev

Hi Bob. JB WELD according to their data is often used for repair of engine blocks. 
http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/pdf/4700N.pdf is another product available in 10gm kits and is good for 600deg F
Measure-tech in Victoria stock Cotronics products
Best of luck
Herbie


----------



## fcheslop

Hi Bob,daft question could they not be made a light press fit? then cut 
kind regards Frazer


----------



## kvom

I've been using 620 for cylindrical fits on my loco build (e.g., wheels to axles). The small bottle lasts a long time as you don't need very much.


----------



## Lesmo

Morning Bob, 
I am only on page 8 of this one at present and I like it a lot, not only the build which is looking ace, but the humorous casual atmosphere generated by yourself and some of your contributors. We could all use a bit more of that in our lives these days, so now its back to the story and see it develop.

Cheers Les  :big: :big:


----------



## swilliams

Hi Bob

I assume the loctite was a 50ml bottle at 50 bucks? It may be possible to get a 10ml bottle for about 15. I was in a Repco shop a while ago and they were happy to order in a small bottle of loctite for me. Not sure if you can get 620 in a 10ml bottle here? If you have a win let us know.

Cheers
Steve


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## Maryak

Graham, Herbie, Frazer, Kvom and Steve,

Thanks for the suggestions guys. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Yes Steve, it was a 50ml bottle. I asked about a 10ml bottle and all I received was shrugged shoulders and blank looks. I will see what my local Repco have to say.

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer

Hell...Loctite sent me a 10ml bottle free as a sample!.....I would hunt around if I were you...or call your Loctite rep and tell them about your new tank project that you KNOW you could fix with loctite but need to prove it first..... ;D

Dave


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## gjn

Bob

I have some Loctite 620 if you still need it. I'm at Aberfoyle Park and on 0412 519 776. Yell out if you need to use it.

Rgds - Gavin


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## Maryak

Gavin & Dave,

One thing that is Loctite..........my wallet ;D

After a foray to the local Autobarn I found 100 ml of JB Weld for $19.00 and it's rated to 6000F.

Gavin, nice to have a chat and thanks for your kind offer, (I know where to come next time ).

I know I said it last week but work got in the way so next week should see me attacking the valve cages.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Well,

I've been slack in posting but I now have something more to add.

The new head with the valve inserts ready for final machining.







Machining the inserts in a collet for accuracy












The head ready for valve lapping.












Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

Great head job Bob. Holes in correct position and correct depth on this one?
Looking forward to next instalment


----------



## Deanofid

Back on the job, Bob. Good to see a new post!


----------



## steamer

Looking almost ready to rock Bob!
 :bow:

Dave


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## Maryak

Herbie, Dean and Dave,

Thanks for hanging in there guys :bow: :bow: :bow:

I re-assembled and bugger me....still no compression.

Last week I got tangled up in a rush job and it was raining like hell. By the time we finished I was soaked through to the undies. Fortunately I had a spare boiler suit in my shop. With only that between me and the rest of the world, the car with the heater on seemed like a good idea.............so............I went home. 

This week saw me make a tester for the head and cylinder because I thought I may have broken a ring. With 30 psi of air it took some effort to move the piston against the pressure and there was little or no blow by on the cylinder base.

Like Brian Rupnow, it's those pesky valves; again at 30 psi, air flowed quite freely from both the intake and exhaust. 

Ah well, not only will I have to suck it up but it looks like I will also be lapping it up. :

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer

We're not going anywhere.... Try the shot of oil in the cylinder trick during the compression test....good for spotting bad rings...that would eliminate one of th two variables...just don't use too much


Dave


----------



## ozzie46

Still following along. Been here since the beginning.

  You'll get it sorted , I know it. Thm: Thm:


 Ron


----------



## gabby

;D *knuppel2* The suspense is killing me  ha ha, yes I know, Grasshopper be patient, and all will be revealed when the mountain has been conquered :bow:.
Cheers
Graham


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## Maryak

Dave, Ron and Graham,

Thanks Guys :bow: :bow: :bow:

Well after spending most of yesterday morning lapping it up, we have compression  Not as much as I would like and not as much as George Britnell suggests. Next step is to have a bit of a play with the valve springs especially the exhaust. Then I think back to more lapping.

Guys I'm sorry this is so excruciatingly slow and I must admit that I'm just a tad peeved at 2steps forward 1step back. That said, I refuse to let a couple of bits of steel get the upper hand so I will spend the rest of this week licking my wounds.

As I'm writing this I realise I could have brought the head and valves home with me and fiddled in the comfort of my cabinet...........ah well there's always next week ;D

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer

Still here mate!

Dave
 ;D


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## Herbiev

Me too ;D


----------



## AussieJimG

And me (for what it's worth)
Jim


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## Deanofid

Bob, these things take as long as they take. Your regular fan club is still here and waiting for the next good thing!


----------



## fcheslop

Hi Bob,the valves can be swines at times. Not trying to tell my granny how to suck eggs but I find a valve seat cutter and very very fine diamond paste or smokers tooth powder to lap em in and only the slightest bright ring when they are done.
Good luck you will get there.
kind regards Frazer


----------



## Maryak

Dave, Herbie, Jim, Dean and Frazer,

Thanks for the support and advise. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

You have given me inspiration to move forward 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## tel

> Guys I'm sorry this is so excruciatingly slow and I must admit that I'm just a tad peeved at 2steps forward 1step back. That said, I refuse to let a couple of bits of steel get the upper hand so I will spend the rest of this week licking my wounds.



Living remote from the workshop can't help either. I'm hard pressed to force meself down the 12 steps to mine in this weather.


----------



## bearcar1

tel  said:
			
		

> Living remote from the workshop can't help either. I'm hard pressed to force meself down the 12 steps to mine in this weather.




What? No flop setup in the corner? Shame on you mate!! ;D


BC1
Jim


----------



## rebush

Bob: Just finished reading the complete build log. What an education, thanks for posting your progress or sometimes lack of. Will be here till the fat lady sings. good luck. Roger


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## gjn

rebush  said:
			
		

> Bob: Just finished reading the complete build log. What an education, thanks for posting your progress or sometimes lack of. Will be here till the fat lady sings. good luck. Roger



She's gargling at the moment - the full song will be along soon. I should hear the cheers from Bob from my place........


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## steamer

Cheers indeed!  Then he needs to pack up that shipping container and move it behind his house! Every guy needs his man er ah cave!

 ;D

Dave


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## tel

Yes indeed - absence doth not make the heart grow fonder, it maketh the hand grow idler!


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## Maryak

tel, Jim, Roger, Gavin and Dave,

Thanks guys, :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

 th_wav woohoo1

We have kick back compression   

The toothpaste did the trick.

Best Regards
Bob


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## metalmad

I hope you saved me a seat Bob :big:
Looking forward to it ;D
Pete


----------



## Brian Rupnow

Bob----I used to get kick back compression from cooking my own dinners before I got married!!! ;D ;D I am looking foreward to seeing this beastie run.----Brian


----------



## moanaman

Hi Bob
 good to see you are making progress. Sparks, compression, fuel is all that you need to make it go bang.  Then you have to get the cam and ignition timing correct and the correct air fuel ratio and it has to run. 
You have done well considering the interruptions and distance between home and shop.

Barry G


----------



## Deanofid

Maryak  said:
			
		

> We have kick back compression
> 
> The toothpaste did the trick.


Next time I loose compression, I just need to remember to brush my teeth!
Things are sounding good, Bob!


----------



## gabby

:big: It won't be long now :big:
                                                                                                                                                                                                     Cheers
                   Graham :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## steamer

Bob,

Go get-em buddy......it won't be long now!

Dave


----------



## Teza

Hi Bob,
Just a little clarification if you don't mind, after ginding the valves with toothpaste do you rinse it off with Listerine or is that only indicated for use on Lister engines??? :big:

Keep at it mate
Regards
Terry


----------



## Maryak

Guys, Guys, Guys,

 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:



			
				Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Bob----I used to get kick back compression from cooking my own dinners before I got married!!! ;D ;D I am looking foreward to seeing this beastie run.----Brian



I still do when Galina serves Galupsi 



			
				Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Next time I loose compression, I just need to remember to brush my teeth!



Na, Galupsi is more effective. 



			
				Swarfdweller  said:
			
		

> Just a little clarification if you don't mind, after ginding the valves with toothpaste do you rinse it off with Listerine or is that only indicated for use on Lister engines??? :big:
> 
> Regards
> Terry



Following on from another thread, I rinsed with a large dollop of BGR. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gabby

Now then fellas, if you want a finer grind on your valves, denture paste is best (it leaves no scratches ) serious  : ;D
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         Cheers
Graham Rof} Rof}
heh heh


----------



## Maryak

Well, slap me sideways 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





I   actually made some bits for the electrics today. Did I wire it  up..................well my intentions were good but I had taken my  electrical toolbox home for a little honey do sparking and  so..................all my connectors and solder etc. were a mere 60km  from me.

Ah well there's always next week..........back to the boiler 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Maryak

Hi Guys

Thanks for hanging in there guys. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	










We have IGNITION................I have also demonstrated my in depth knowledge of Holme's Law as the wiring clearly shows. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	









Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Herbiev

Well done Bob. Any chance of a video ?


----------



## ozzie46

Well done Bob, I have been waiting for this. Congrats.  Uh video?

  Ron


----------



## metalmad

dont rush the man, :hDe:
 I think he has just got the ignition system sorted, wont be long now 

Pete


----------



## gus

Video,Please when you get hitting and missing!!!!!!!!


----------



## Brian Rupnow

Bob---Marvelous work!!! I can almost hear it popping away already. Best of luck.---Brian


----------



## seagar

Hi Bob,thats the best bit of wiring I have seen TODAY. lol

Ian (seagar)


----------



## Robsmith

what works the other valve ?


----------



## lee9966

This is getting exciting!  OK it was exciting all the way, but even more now! 

Lee


----------



## Maryak

Robsmith said:


> what works the other valve ?



Rob its an atmospheric valve, i.e. the suck on the intake stroke creates enough vacuum for the inlet valve to open.

Sorry guys but 2 weeks running I have been unable to get into my workshop due to unforeseen other work getting in the way.

Thanks for your support.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Robsmith

Maryak said:


> Rob its an atmospheric valve, i.e. the suck on the intake stroke creates enough vacuum for the inlet valve to open.
> 
> Sorry guys but 2 weeks running I have been unable to get into my workshop due to unforeseen other work getting in the way.
> 
> Thanks for your support.
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob


  Ha Ha Just after I added the question it dawned on me..."Hit & Miss" the valve is sucked open. Thanks for the explanation anyway. I'm new to all this and I'm learning heaps....very enjoyable way to waste some late night time.


----------



## carsronnie

pleading ignorance,but what happened to this post? i am building the same engine.


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