# Ghosty's "V" Twin



## Ghosty (Dec 21, 2016)

Hi All
After doing the Rupnow Vertical, I have had a thought, How would a twin look. I have done some drawings at 60 & 90 deg's. The 90 one would be simpler to mark out as every thing is at 90degs to each other.
What does every one think?

Cheers
Andrew


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## kadora (Dec 22, 2016)

You are right 90 deg. Twin is a bit simpler for machining but i think
that 60deg. Twin is nicer. 
I have question is there some advantage of 60 deg. twin opposite common
inline two cylinder engine?.
Ghosty sorry to interupt your thread .


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## Niels Abildgaard (Dec 22, 2016)

kadora said:


> You are right 90 deg. Twin is a bit simpler for machining but i think
> that 60deg. Twin is nicer.
> I have question is there some advantage of 60 deg. twin opposite common
> inline two cylinder engine?.
> Ghosty sorry to interupt your thread .



For small engines put putting say one hour over their hole life it does not matter ,but for motobikes the question has been resolved.
What is best ?
A 90 degree Ducatti,
something less Harley Davidson or a not at all old  Triumpf.
Balance IS important and best in a 90 degree V2.


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## Charles Lamont (Dec 22, 2016)

Or flat (180 deg)?


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## Niels Abildgaard (Dec 22, 2016)

Charles Lamont said:


> Or flat (180 deg)?


An opposed 180 degree is horrible and a 360 degree flat like a BMW is more uneven in torque delivery than a V2 needing more steel in gears.


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## charlesfitton (Dec 22, 2016)

You only "need" one cam for a V...


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## Parksy (Dec 22, 2016)

Anything that produces an uneven firing pattern within the 720 degrees is good in my books. Purely from a sound perspective.


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## Ghosty (Dec 22, 2016)

Hi All,
Done a rough layup of the cam gearing, out by about 15thou(60deg). Will have to check cad drawings.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Dec 22, 2016)

What is going on, can't upload pics.


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## Ghosty (Dec 23, 2016)

Got the pic of the timing gears to upload

Cheers
Andrew


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## kadora (Dec 23, 2016)

In my 60 Deg. twins i have this cam gears layout.


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## Ghosty (Dec 23, 2016)

Hi All,
Cut the head blanks today making tinsil. Yes, I made a left and right hand one.

Cheers


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## Ghosty (Jan 2, 2017)

Hi All,
Happy New year all, Had places to go, people to see and other things to do over the holidays, still got some more done.
Heads machined out, now on to the valve cages

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 2, 2017)

Hi All,
On to the valve cages and the valves. When fitting the valve cages I use Loctite 515 to seal them.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 3, 2017)

Hi All,
Got the cylinder liners and cylinders done.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 3, 2017)

Do you have a rich uncle who is in the brass business??---Looking good.---Brian


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## /// (Jan 3, 2017)

Photo #6 = someone's planning to do some bluing :thumbup:


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 3, 2017)

Nice work. She should look real nice with the brass cylinders.


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## Herbiev (Jan 3, 2017)

Looking great Ghosty. You are really moving along with this one.


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## Ghosty (Jan 3, 2017)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Do you have a rich uncle who is in the brass business??---Looking good.---Brian


Brian,
Got them from my brother in law. They are left over fuel change over valve bodies(un-machined) from his fishing trawler.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 3, 2017)

Hi All,
Thanks guys, will keep moving on. Got the timing gears and cams done.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 4, 2017)

Hi All,
Got the crankshaft done this arvo. not happy with the bearing boss, did not put the spacer width in.
May make up another shaft.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 5, 2017)

Hi All,
Not a lot done today, messing around with the brother in laws band saw, got a bi metal band for it, had to repair the drive wheel, rubber band had come off. Cut the 1" alloy bar stock for the engine frame with Oldhams lub on the band it worked good. Better that using a hacksaw.
Brother in law used it to build model trawlers, and gave up after the band came of and went back to cutting the wood by hand.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 6, 2017)

Hi All,
Made a start on the engine frame, after pining and bolting two 25mm thick plates together, I started the machining of the engine frame. I trial fitted the crank and cams, I will be making a new crank, just not happy with it.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 6, 2017)

Hi All,
New shaft and crank web made this morning. Now off to race some boats.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 7, 2017)

Hi All,
Got the cyl mounts done, and a first assy of the engine parts.
Will make a start on the pushrod assy today, it is going to be a hot day today, so don't how much I will get done.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 9, 2017)

Hi All,
Got the push rods done and intake done except for the O ring seal collars.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 10, 2017)

Hi All,
Got the rocker gear and the intake O ring keepers done.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 11, 2017)

Hi All,
Only got the timber base done today. Waiting on some Oilite bearings so I can do the con-rods.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Blogwitch (Jan 11, 2017)

I do hope you are not using oilite bearings in your con rods.

There is a reason for it.

Oilite bearings are not solid, but sintered, made up of tiny balls compressed together, great for rotary bushes but I doubt if they will stand up to explosive forces pushing down onto them mounted into the con rods in your engine, they are liable to just shatter into tiny pieces.
I had enough trouble carefully parting them off to make thrust washers for rotary tables, they just disintegrate before your eyes.

John


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## Barnbikes (Jan 11, 2017)

Beginners question here. 
Seeing that it is a 2 cylinder will you need twice as big flywheel to carry the momentum? or how do you calculate that?

Jon


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 11, 2017)

Blogwitch said:


> I do hope you are not using oilite bearings in your con rods.
> 
> There is a reason for it.
> 
> ...


John--are you speaking from personal experience, or just posting what you "think" you know? I have used oilite sintered bronze bushings in con rods on engines that I have built. I do have personal experience with them. They work fine. I wouldn't want to run the engines at 18000 rpm with sintered bushings, but for low speed engines they work very well, and their ability to retain oil seems to give them an advantage over solid bushings.---Brian


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## Blogwitch (Jan 11, 2017)

Brian,

No experience using them like you are doing, just many years experience of using many types of bearings and materials for bearings, including Oilite in a vast array of circumstances. In other words, the right ones for the job.

They are not designed to be used with shock loads because of their build structure, they are very fragile when used in shock compression, which is the state you are using them in. Maybe you are just lucky.
I know this isn't definitive, but it does show that solid bronze is preferable to Oilite due to their relevant strengths

http://www.getyourbearings.co.uk/oilitephosphorbronze.html

Take note of the shock loads and maximum load.

If it was me in that situation I would use something like these polymer bearings or their steel or bronze counterpart. In fact, I would most probably make my own out of something like ali bronze.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-plain-bearings/6671434/

One of these bagged sets would last a lifetime in the smaller sizes.

John


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## Ghosty (Jan 12, 2017)

Hi All,
Made a start on the con rods.

John,
Like Brian, I have had no problems with the Oilite bearings in the big end, as long as they are not machined. They fall apart if you machine the ends(brake The seal so to speak) if they are too long. I order to size. With the con rods for the twin, I have will have to make them out of some bronze that I have as my supplier can not supply the width of bearing that I need.

Barnbikes, Jon, the fly wheel does not need to be twice as big, could use the same as for the single, could even use a lighter one. How do you calculate is a lot of maths that I don't have handy.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 12, 2017)

Hi All 
Got the con rods done, started the assembly.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 13, 2017)

Hi All,
Getting close now, have to work out a fuel tank, and a flywheel. May have a contact with someone who has there own forge, may be able to make my own flywheel blank.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Longboy (Jan 13, 2017)

Really aced Andrew on your design of offset (to block) cylinders and overhang crankshaft. I have a couple engines using that concept I'm happy with. :thumbup:


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## Ghosty (Jan 16, 2017)

Hi All,
Sneaky little fuel tank made and fitted. Just waiting on some more magnets for the ign system.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 17, 2017)

I'm interested in seeing this run. Everything I have read about twin cylinder engines indicates that if the cylinders are not diametrically opposed, or side by side, that the engine will "lope" because of the angled configuration. I don't know if this is a concern for model engines or not. I have seen videos of the Hoglet engine that seemed to work alright. I have no doubt that it will run. It is an interesting adaptation of the original design.---Brian


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2017)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I'm interested in seeing this run. Everything I have read about twin cylinder engines indicates that if the cylinders are not diametrically opposed, or side by side, that the engine will "lope" because of the angled configuration. I don't know if this is a concern for model engines or not. I have seen videos of the Hoglet engine that seemed to work alright. I have no doubt that it will run. It is an interesting adaptation of the original design.---Brian


Thank Brian, I am looking forward to running it as well.
Got the magnets today. Fitted the twin pickups, and then set the timing(5 deg BTDC) very easy with the ign test module.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N023IU-GztA[/ame]
Got a reply on a price of 6" dia brass today, will be in next week I hope, will make a very nice flywheel.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 23, 2017)

Hi All.
Electronic ign systems arrived, have been nil stock for a while. Fitted and have tested them. Now just waiting on the flywheel material.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 30, 2017)

Hi All.
The lump of brass turned up. Now to work out how to turn it.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Parksy (Jan 30, 2017)

Drill a hole in the centre of it and loctite a rod in place. Use a trepaning tool to cut a deep and wide enough groove into the side so you can use the lathe chuck to hold it. This is how I make 100mm steel flywheels on the sieg sc3 lathe.


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## Cogsy (Jan 31, 2017)

That is a sexy piece of metal...


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## Ghosty (Jan 31, 2017)

Cogsy said:


> That is a sexy piece of metal...


Cogsy, even more now I have started the machining.

Mounted with thick super glue and activated, used the live centre for safety. Got the outer dia done, and the inside roughed out so it can be mounted in the chuck.

Cheers


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## Ghosty (Jan 31, 2017)

Parksy said:


> Drill a hole in the centre of it and loctite a rod in place. Use a trepaning tool to cut a deep and wide enough groove into the side so you can use the lathe chuck to hold it. This is how I make 100mm steel flywheels on the sieg sc3 lathe.


Parksy, we have the same lathe, I have fitted mine with a 125mm chuck.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 31, 2017)

I All,
Got the outside of the flywheel done, had to do a test fit. Now to finish off the inside of the flywheel.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Jan 31, 2017)

Hi All,
Now to make up the split keeper and it's almost done.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Feb 1, 2017)

Hi All,
Got the split keeper made up. Fitted and then spent a lot of time on the engine. IT RUNS. Still some problems with the intake springs(too stiff). Will spend some more time on it tomorrow. Had to work around the rain today, first time in a couple of months.

Cheers
Andrew

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCvok4Qjht4&feature=youtu.be[/ame]


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## Blogwitch (Feb 1, 2017)

Magic :thumbup:


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## Cogsy (Feb 1, 2017)

Congrats Andrew. Runs really smooth - I was expecting it to sound more like a Harley.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 1, 2017)

Great stuff Ghosty. Congratulations.----Brian


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## Ghosty (Feb 1, 2017)

Hi All,
Thanks everyone. After doing adjustments all morning, it is now getting close, sound does not come across on the video. This is one tank of fuel. It only holds 20ml.

Cheers
Andrew
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TM5Ih5wxSxU&feature=youtu.be[/ame]


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## bruedney (Feb 1, 2017)

Nice

Like your choice of ride in the background of the first video too :thumbup:

Cheers

Bruce


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## Cogsy (Feb 2, 2017)

Very cool. Running like a dream. That big flywheel takes a bit of winding up and slowing down by the sounds of it. 

Should be able to get a decent amount of real work done with that much power if you're so inclined (Brian has lots of weird and wonderful things to drive with his engines, well worth checking out).


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## ShopShoe (Feb 2, 2017)

Ghosty,

That looks nice running. I was able to hear the sound without any problems, so it sounds good too.

--ShopShoe


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## Ghosty (Feb 3, 2017)

Thanks all,
Cogsy, The flywheel is a bit too heavy, will order an other piece of brass and make a lighter one, keep the heavy one for something else, but will have to wait, have car rego, and new fences to do this month.

ShopShoe, it sounds a lot better in the flesh.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Feb 3, 2017)

Hi All,
Latest update. Final tune and running very well. I will revisit this at a later date when I will redo the flywheel. Thus endith the build.

Cheers
Andrew
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4rQoSXz9cw&feature=youtu.be[/ame]


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## bruedney (Feb 4, 2017)

Ghosty said:


> Hi All.
> Electronic ign systems arrived, have been nil stock for a while. Fitted and have tested them. Now just waiting on the flywheel material.
> 
> Cheers
> Andrew


Hi Andrew

Where did you buy the ign sytems from please?

Cheers
Bruce


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## Ghosty (Feb 4, 2017)

bruedney said:


> Hi Andrew
> 
> Where did you buy the ign sytems from please?
> 
> ...


 
Bruce,
I got it from DLEngines Australia, you will have to buy the pickup sensor, and magnet as well.
https://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/...it-for-1/4-32-plugs-90-degree-cap-single.html
https://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop/univeral-ignition-sensor-kit.html
https://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dlshop/magnet-sensor-4mm.html
Hope this helps.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Cogsy (Feb 4, 2017)

I bought a copy/clone of the RXCEL ignition from hobbyking for a lot less money that comes with the sensor but no magnet. Grabbed a ton of magnets for $2 off ebay. Same as the RXCEL it is auto-advancing so that needs to be accounted for in setup, but it worked fine. When I can afford it I'll probably buy more for future projects. Here's the LINK


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## Ghosty (Feb 5, 2017)

Cogsy said:


> I bought a copy/clone of the RXCEL ignition from hobbyking for a lot less money that comes with the sensor but no magnet. Grabbed a ton of magnets for $2 off ebay. Same as the RXCEL it is auto-advancing so that needs to be accounted for in setup, but it worked fine. When I can afford it I'll probably buy more for future projects. Here's the LINK


Cogsy
I have bought those before and had them burn out after a short time. The OEM Rxcel ones I have had no problems with, also the Rxcel will operate on up to 12Vcc. The clone ones don't work long on 5 cell NiCd, as I use 2 LiIon cells(aprox 8Vcc)

Cheers
Andrew


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## Cogsy (Feb 5, 2017)

Ahh I see. I haven't run it much, being an ignition for a hit and miss that doesn't get started often. I run it off 4 Duracell alkaline AA's and so far it's been ok. I certainly wouldn't trust it in a plane though (not that I fly anymore but maybe one day I'll take it up again).


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## bruedney (Feb 5, 2017)

Thanks for the info guys

I might be buying a Bridgeport so it might be a coil and points yet.

Cheers

Bruce


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## Trialnterror (Feb 9, 2017)

Ghosty said:


> Hi All,
> Thanks guys, will keep moving on. Got the timing gears and cams done.
> 
> Cheers
> Andrew



Would you mind showing a close detailed photo of you boring bar cutting tool, I'm just looking for a sample to cut mine from to get me a starting point.... maybe I worrie about small details but I really like to learn all I can


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## Ghosty (Feb 9, 2017)

Trialnterror said:


> Would you mind showing a close detailed photo of you boring bar cutting tool, I'm just looking for a sample to cut mine from to get me a starting point.... maybe I worrie about small details but I really like to learn all I can


Here you go.

Cheers
Andrew


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## dethrow55 (Mar 14, 2017)

just got around to loking at your v build sweeeeeet job.:thumbup:


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## bananabearings (Mar 14, 2017)

whats a split keeper please?
David


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## Ghosty (Mar 14, 2017)

bananabearings said:


> whats a split keeper please?
> David


David,
The two pieces that lock the flywheel to the crank. They are tapered and the fitted into a taper in the flywheel.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Bowtie41 (Mar 16, 2017)

Ghosty said:


> Hi All,
> Got the split keeper made up. Fitted and then spent a lot of time on the engine. IT RUNS. Still some problems with the intake springs(too stiff). Will spend some more time on it tomorrow. Had to work around the rain today, first time in a couple of months.
> 
> Cheers
> ...



Ghosty,
How are you able to determine that the intake springs are too stiff?I thought it sounded pretty darn good.I watched your vids for the 2nd and 3rd run,and it tends to "miss" to my ears there too?


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## Bowtie41 (Mar 16, 2017)

Ghosty said:


> David,
> The two pieces that lock the flywheel to the crank. They are tapered and the fitted into a taper in the flywheel.
> 
> Cheers
> Andrew



Why not a keyway and key?Seems like is would be a lot less work than tapers and all that drilling/tapping?


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## Rozlo (Mar 16, 2017)

Great build.  Congrats.  Looks great sounds a little like an Harley need some more cam.  LOL  

Bill


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## Ghosty (Mar 25, 2017)

Bowtie41 said:


> Why not a keyway and key?Seems like is would be a lot less work than tapers and all that drilling/tapping?


 
1, did not have a broach to do the keyway.
2, do all my flywheels this way, just find it easy.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Mar 25, 2017)

Bowtie41 said:


> Ghosty,
> How are you able to determine that the intake springs are too stiff?I thought it sounded pretty darn good.I watched your vids for the 2nd and 3rd run,and it tends to "miss" to my ears there too?


 
Just by looking at how the inlet valve works. It should open nearly the full travel of the valve, In the first run the valve was only just opening. By my way of looking at it the spring should only just hold the valve closed. I could be wrong but it works for me. The sound in the video is not as clear as what the engine is doing.

Cheers


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## Trialnterror (Mar 25, 2017)

How did you make the gas tank? It looks like a copper Tee fitting?


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## Trialnterror (Mar 25, 2017)

Where did you get the timing module tester? The protractor.... is there a name for it? I'd like to try and find one.  And your intake valve looks like it activates by vacuum? 



Ghosty said:


> Thank Brian, I am looking forward to running it as well.
> Got the magnets today. Fitted the twin pickups, and then set the timing(5 deg BTDC) very easy with the ign test module.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N023IU-GztA
> Got a reply on a price of 6" dia brass today, will be in next week I hope, will make a very nice flywheel.
> ...


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## Ghosty (Mar 25, 2017)

Trialnterror said:


> How did you make the gas tank? It looks like a copper Tee fitting?


 
Yes, it is a copper "T" fitting, and I used brass welsh plugs too.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Ghosty (Mar 25, 2017)

Trialnterror said:


> Where did you get the timing module tester? The protractor.... is there a name for it? I'd like to try and find one. And your intake valve looks like it activates by vacuum?


 
Got the ign test module from here https://hobbyking.com/en_us/gas-eng...up-tool-includes-crankshaft-degree-wheel.html

The "protractor" is called a degree wheel, and comes with the test module.

Cheers
Andrew


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## Trialnterror (Mar 26, 2017)

Ordered one thanks! 



Ghosty said:


> Got the ign test module from here https://hobbyking.com/en_us/gas-eng...up-tool-includes-crankshaft-degree-wheel.html
> 
> The "protractor" is called a degree wheel, and comes with the test module.
> 
> ...


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## Muggs (Mar 29, 2017)

Ghosty said:


> David,
> The two pieces that lock the flywheel to the crank. They are tapered and the fitted into a taper in the flywheel.
> 
> Cheers
> Andrew



Andrew, 
I don't know if it matters, but can I assume that that angle is 20° included?





Thanks,
Muggs


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## Ghosty (Mar 29, 2017)

Muggs,
That one was from another engine, I now use a 10 deg included angle.

Cheers


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## Muggs (Mar 29, 2017)

Thank you, I will incorporate that into my designs. A very clean, good looking way to lock the flywheel onto the shaft.


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