# Building Elmers #44 Open Column Twin (Final pictures, and video)



## Metal Butcher (Oct 30, 2009)

To start off this building season I decided on this simple two cylinder. Its compact and about the same size as most of the previous engines I have built. The main point of interest is the valve location that allows it to control two cylinders reminiscent of a Stuart Sirus or Sun. 

I) The cylinder block was band saw cut oversize from common aluminum bar stock. Using a fly cutter in the MD it was accurately machined to size indicated in the plans. Precision micrometers and square were used to verify its dimensions and squareness before proceeding. 







2) Here's the MD and set up used to size the cylinder block. The photos show the mess left by one sizing operation. Subsequent photos will be "staged" to conceal this reality that we all face.  






3)The cylinder block was first drilled to 1/2" and then brought to a finished dimension of .750 using a small boring head and bar. To accurately place all the bored, drilled, and taped holes scribed intersection locations were verified using the calibrated hand wheels on the MD. Drilled holes are taped using the chuck to accurately locate and center the hand- tapping operation. You can see a small diameter aluminum turning disc that I use to minimize tap breakage.






4) This last photo shows the finished cylinder block and pistons.The transfer ports at the top of the bore were done using a 1/8" end mill. The intake and exhaust openings on opposite sides of the block were tapped 10-40 for the 3/16" model pipe that will be used.

I'll post more parts and pics as the build progresses.






-MB


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## 4156df (Oct 30, 2009)

MB,
Great start & nice write-up. Looking forward to more of the same.
Dennis


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## Twmaster (Oct 30, 2009)

Looking at all these projects being brought to life here is a wonderful thing.

That is some very nice looking work. I'll be watching.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 1, 2009)

5) I used 1/4" and 1/8" scrap aluminum plates to machine the base and table. After they were band saw cut oversize I used a 1/2" end mill to bring them to finished dimensions. Accurate sizing was important to assure properly centered openings and spacing on drilled holes. All the machine work preformed on these pieces was located after zeroing out the machine spindle on their edges. By using the the calibrated hand wheels on the MD accurate hole placement was archived. As an additional precaution I used scribed intersecting lines to verify the locations on the work piece.






6) The rectangular opening on the base was roughed out by eye using a center cutting 1/2" end mill. Using light climb cuts a 1/8" end mill was used to finish the opening.






7) The piston rod clearance holes in the table were roughed out by eye again using the 1/2" end mill. I used a scribed circle as a guide and stayed within 1/16." 






8) Final sizing was accomplished with two passes of a small boring head. This was easier, faster, and neater that dealing with the chatter and other problems I encountered in the past using a drill on thin aluminum plate.






9) The twelve holes again, were scribed with intersecting lines and table moves were accomplished using the calibrated hand wheels on the MD to assure accurate placement.






10) The base holes were drilled using the same method. Note the four counter sunk holes that will be used to hold the bearing blocks from underneath the base plate.






11) With the machine work finished, all that's needed is a final planing (fileing) and blocking (sanding).

-MB






-MB


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## cfellows (Nov 1, 2009)

Nice work you're doin' there MB. Thanks for progress report.

Chuck


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## Deanofid (Nov 1, 2009)

Getting right on with it, MB. Quite a bit done for only a couple days work. 
Looks like a fun build.

Dean


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## IronHorse (Nov 1, 2009)

Nice build, should be a nice engine.

I like your mill, I wish my mini-mill had "calibrated Hand Wheels" ;D ;D ;D


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 3, 2009)

12)The rails were cut from 3/8" square 6061 aluminum bar stock.The stepped areas were strait forward milling. The two clearance holes on both ends were drilled for #6 hold down screws. I decided to use columns that will be tapped from both ends eliminating the need to machine threaded shoulders.The six column screw holes were step drilled from underneath to accommodate and conceal the #4 cap screws that will mount the six columns to the base plate.






13) The valve plate was cut and milled to proper size from 1/8" brass plate.After precision lay out the three valve ports were milled out. The two holes near the front were clearance drilled for #2 screws that will attach the rocker pivot from underneath. Latter it will be soldered prior to being slotted along with the valve plate. 






14) With all of the milling and drilling on the valve plate finished, the rocker pivot was machined and test fitted.






15) With the major work completed, all of the parts were block sanded on #220 wet/dry sand paper. The rocker pivot was tinned, screwed into position, and sweat soldered on while tightening its screws. To conceal the threaded holes used to attach it, I tapped the pivot block instead of the valve plate.The valve plate was previously clearance drilled for these screws. The exposed threaded holes bothered me a bit, so I changed the screw head locations. :






16) This final picture shows the rocker pivot slot milled clear through the rocker pivot and the specified 3/8" into the valve plate. 







More to come... Lots more.

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 3, 2009)

Very nice! Great thread. I'm enjoying the detail too!
Thanks.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 5, 2009)

17) Hi all. I didn't have a chance to spend any time in the shop yesterday, but today I managed about 5 hrs and made a few more pieces.
After sizing a block of brass that will become the steam chest, the cavity for the slide valve was plunge milled with a 1/2" center cutting end mill, and finished with a 1/8" end mill. The photo shows it being milled down to its proper specified height. I decided to make the steam chest as a build-up of three parts that will be soldered together, or assembled with Loc-tite.






18) The valve was made from a longer piece of brass milled to the finished width and height. This allowed it to be held in securely the vise. After milling out the 1/4' x 1/4" x .032 transfer pocket the bar was flipped over 180 degrees, and the two 1/8" channels accurately located and cut to depth prior to parting off.






19) The bearing blocks were milled to size from scrap aluminum and profiled to suit with a corner rounding end mill. The photo shows them being drilled and reamed for slithered bronze bushings (Oil-Lite's).






20) The bottom of the bearing blocks were drilled and tapped 4-40. They will be bolted from underneath the base plate using counter sunk flat head screws.






21) The bushings will be pressed into the bearing blocks after they are cut to the proper width.






22) The bearing blocks were test fitted to the base.
Amazing! They fit perfectly! The careful layout, drilling and tapping, of the base and bearing blocks just paid off. 






23) This last photo in this post shows six other pieces started today.
Top row from left to right: slide and steam chest.
Bottom row; guide, valve, nut (for valve rod), steam chest cover.






Not bad for a short day's work. 

-MB


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## mklotz (Nov 5, 2009)

I hope Zee takes note of how you made the valve.

That's exactly the technique I recommended to him in his thread on building his mill engine.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 5, 2009)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> I hope Zee takes note of how you made the valve.
> 
> That's exactly the technique I recommended to him in his thread on building his mill engine.



Thanks Marv. I think it's a better way to make this small part, and there is also the bonus of extra material already sized, just in case.

The few I made in the past were fully sized prior to milling the transfer port and cross slots on the opposite side. Not much to hold on to that way, not to mention how easily the part was re-sized by the vises grip-of-death.

I cut off the valve with the same 1/8" end mill based on calibrated hand wheel moves. Worked like a charm and with a lot less stress. :big:

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 5, 2009)

I have certainly taken notice. ;D

But just to be clear about what Marv said...it's not that I didn't listen to him. The recommendation came after my attempt to follow the instructions that came with the kit.

Sorry to be off-topic. More sorry you hadn't done this before my own valve work. Then I'd have known a better method than presented in the instructions...and Marv wouldn't have had another opportunity to ding the instructions. :big:

Great thread MB. Thanks for the detail.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 5, 2009)

Another pretty and well detailed thread.--Do you have a picture of what the finished engine is supposed to look like?----Brian


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 5, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Another pretty and well detailed thread.--Do you have a picture of what the finished engine is supposed to look like?----Brian



Hi Brian. With me on the project you never know what it's gonna look like! Nor do I!: :big:

Seriously tho, here's a link to exactly what one looks like if one follows the plans exactly. Pictures in my previous thread of the finished engine were provided by Marv (mklotz). As you will see he built a absolutely beautiful example.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6522.0

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 7, 2009)

24) I finished up the started parts shown in the last picture of my last post, picture # 23. The two guides on the steam chest were machined separately and installed as a light press fit along with the use of Loc-Tite. The six columns were cut to length and tapped 4-40 from both ends.






25) The picture below shows a piece of scrap clamped in the MD and faced flat with a fly cutter. This is the first step I took to make my crank shaft. A head scratching, but interesting approach I have used in the past to fabricate a crank.






26) After rough centering the MD quill on the fly cut scrap, the hand wheels were zeroed out. The I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for a bolt that goes through the center hole reamed on all three crank discs. Its important that the bolt fits the crank discs tight or the accuracy of the crank will suffer. The spindle is offset .375" both fore and aft of center to drill two holes in the center disc. The two outside discs need only one hole each, and were stacked and drilled/reamed as one piece.






27) The three pieces of shafting were cut to length from precision ground S.S..
Each joint was assembled individually (See Elmer's text) to keep things from going haywire. Trying to accurately space three discs on three shafts while the Loc-Tite is setting up would be difficult at best!






28) The semi finished crank was mounted on the base plate and checked for run out on it's outer surfaces. The largest deviation (high spot) found was .002. This is very acceptable to me since these are not not running surfaces.

After a 24 hour set up (Loc-Tite) time the shafts will be drilled and pinned. Afterward the center shaft on the crank throw ends will be removes using a hack saw. 

I cut the discs from 12L14 steel. I had the correct size bar on hand since last year when I ordered some to try out. This was the first time I machined this stuff. It's great, I like it a lot! It machines like a cross between cast iron and brass. The 1018 I have used in the past is somewhat disappointing by comparison. Unfortunately my supplier only carries round bars.

Does any one know of a source for 12L14 in flat plate, square, or rectangular bars? 






After a little clean up in the shop, its break time. 

-MB


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 7, 2009)

> Does any one know of a source for 12L14 in flat plate, square, or rectangular bars?


square stock from 1/4 to 2 1/2 inch here
http://www.mcmaster.com/#12l14-steel-products/=4ejr4l
Tin


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## Twmaster (Nov 7, 2009)

Speedy Metals also has 12L14 in square. I've bought from them and they are good to deal with.

http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8249-12l14.aspx


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## Deanofid (Nov 7, 2009)

The crank is looking good, MB.

I don't think 12L is made in shapes that won't go through a chuck. It's mainly a product for screw machines and auto chuckers, and just turned out to be great for us home shop guys, too. I could be wrong, but I've never seen it in flat bar of any size. It does come in hex in lots of sizes though. Great stuff for making your own cap screws and nuts.

Dean


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 7, 2009)

Tin Falcon and Twmaster, thanks for providing two good sources for square bar 12L14.

Deanofid, I agree it's the good stuff. With the shapes available a lot of the engine parts like cylinders, pistons, heads, crank cases, crank discs, fly wheels, etc could be made from this material.

Reasonably priced too. 

-MB


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## cfellows (Nov 8, 2009)

Great progress, MB. It's really looking nice.

Chuck


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## arnoldb (Nov 8, 2009)

MB, That's really looking good!

Arnold


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 10, 2009)

29) I was forced out of the shop for two days. My riding buddies along with help from "Honey" convinced me to uncover my motorcycle and go riding. I don't like this flip flopping between pastimes but it was fun.

Today I made a little progress shown in the following pictures and post.
After hack sawing out the center shaft on the throw ends of the crank I clamped it in my vise using shims cut from an iced tea can. A light milling cleaned up the remaining material. After drilling for the 1/16" expansion pins they were pressed in along with Loctite. 







30) Since the raw steel might eventually rust, I gave the crank a quick dip in tool black.






31) The material for the two piston rods was drilled, tapped, clearance drilled and stamped #1 and #2 on the ends that the end caps will be cut from. After cutting them off a little longer than the finished size they were milled flat and to proper height.






32) Like wise the mating cut ends on the blanks were also trued using an end mill.






33)After installing the cap ends with 2-56 screws, the 1/4" and 1/8" holes were drilled and reamed.






34) Both blanks were milled down to 1/4" width from opposite sides.






35) The piston rods are rough at this point. I used a vise stop to make the cuts to the four sides identical.Further milling on the other two opposing sides is required.






36) A simple fixture was drilled and tapped to hold down the connecting rods for the final milling. The cuts can now be duplicated on the remaining four side with reasonable repeatability, using calibrated table moves.






37) With the milling finished up a few minutes with a file to clean up the milling marks went well. If you look at a copy of the plans you will see that my piston rods are radically different from what Elmer drew up. I enjoy making changes by modifying existing designs.
Could be craziness, creativity, or laziness, who knows! :big:






38) I took a mid day break today and stopped by my favorite scrap yard. Finding some goodies made the trip worthwhile. The round spoke piece looks like it could be a flywheel casting. The find was interesting enough for me to post this picture.
The build is coming along well, with a few tough pieces ahead.  






-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 11, 2009)

39) To make the eccentric strap a layout was scribed onto a piece of 3/16" thick brass stock. I drilled and reamed the 1/2" hole on the large end and the 3/32" hole on the small end.






40) A scrap piece of aluminum was drilled and tapped 4-40 for the large end and 3-48 for the small end of the strap. A 1/2" stepped plug was machined and drilled for a 4-40 hold down screw. To hold down the small end a 3-48 screw was dressed down to .093 for a slip fit through the 3/32" reamed hole on the small end of the work piece. I used two rows of tapped holes on the fixture. The first set was offset to match the proposed taper of the eccentric strap, and the 2ND set of tapped holes are parallel to the vise jaws.






41) The workpiece profile was roughed out and removed from its fixture.






42)After a light cut to smooth things up the work piece was removed and bolted down parallel to the vise jaws. The final step was milling the flat web area down to the 1/8" specified in the plans. This must be a cosmetic step, that does look good when compared to the opposite side.






43) Below is a picture of the finished eccentric strap.
I did a bit of sanding with 600 grit sand paper to remove the machine marks and break the sharp machined corners.
Although the part is far from cosmetic perfection, I'm satisfied with the end result being a usable part. 







-MB


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## Jack B (Nov 11, 2009)

MB You make very nice and professional looking parts. Good luck with your build.    Jack


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 11, 2009)

Wow! Thanks Jack, that quite a compliment!

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 13, 2009)

44) The eccentric was machined from a scrap piece of stainless I had on hand. Due to my lack of a suitable four jaw chuck the offset section was machined using a boring head mounted on the mill/drill. To machine the piece from the out side the cutting edge of the boring bar was turned inward and the boring head was run in reverse. 






45) I cut the slot on the slide pin with a 3/32" slitting saw. The piece was mounted in a square collet block so that it could be indexed 90 degrees and cross drilled for the 1/16" pin that will engage the rocker. 






46) The picture below shows the slide pin being cross drilled and reamed for a 1/16" pin. It was also drilled and reamed for the 3/32" pin that engages the eccentric strap, (not shown).






47) Below is the finished slide pin.






48) To make the rocker a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" steel was milled down to the required .093" thickness.






49) After milling the rocker blank to 3/4" x 9/16", the 3/32" pivot hole was drilled and reamed.






50) The two slots on the 'L" shaped rocker were milled out with a 1/16" end mill. I took my time and cut .015" deep with each pass. Rushing with this small end mill would result is a poorly finished and over size slot.






51) After free hand cutting out of the excess material, the rocker was milled to final size with a 1/4" end mill. 






52) After a light sanding with #600 grit, I dipped the rocker in Tool Black to prevent rust. Also shown is the p rocker pivot pin cut from3/32" s.s. rod. Rather than cross drill it for very thin wire, I cut grooves for 3/32" E-clips. They add a nice neat look, and are easy to remove if needed.

With only a few pins and wooden base to make, the engine should be ready for sanding, painting, assembly, and testing within a few days.








-MB


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## RobWilson (Nov 13, 2009)

Hi MB

Just found this thread ,, GREAT photo build and VERY nice machining  :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Regards Rob


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 13, 2009)

Great stuff MB. Thanks for the detail and pics.

Why did you set the collet block on a parallel in the vise?


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 13, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Great stuff MB. Thanks for the detail and pics.
> 
> Why did you set the collet block on a parallel in the vise?



Its a combination of a bad habit and laziness? Bad habit = I have done this before and gotten away with it. Laziness= It's a whopping 3 feet to the roll away were my parallels are stored.

A better way, I should say the proper way, would have been to set it on two low parallels.

Balancing it on one of the jaw slides might not be accurate since the collet blocks chosen offset took it off one of those top slide ways.

 Do you follow what I,m tying to say Zee?

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 13, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> A better way, I should say the proper way, would have been to set it on two low parallels.
> 
> Do you follow what I,m tying to say Zee?



Uh...no. I was wondering why it was on a parallel in the first place (why the collet block simply wasn't on the floor of the vise). Now I'm wondering why you say the proper way is to set it on two low parallels. Was there a height issue you were trying to reach? And either way...why are two low parallels better? (Other than, from some recent reading, I'm suspecting that parallels are spec'd for parallelism to height...not their width. Is that right?)

I'm asking out of complete ignorance...I'm not questioning your method.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 13, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Uh...no. I was wondering why it was on a parallel in the first place (why the collet block simply wasn't on the floor of the vise). Now I'm wondering why you say the proper way is to set it on two low parallels. Was there a height issue you were trying to reach? And either way...why are two low parallels better? (Other than, from some recent reading, I'm suspecting that parallels are spec'd for parallelism to height...not their width. Is that right?)
> 
> I'm asking out of complete ignorance...I'm not questioning your method.



My vise "floor" is basically like two rails, paralells are used to bridge these so called rails and set a work pieces at a proper work height. Setting the collet block off to one side clears one of the rails leaving the block suppoted on only one side, with two thirds of it unsupported in mid air. The ideal set up is grabbing hold of as much material as possible with the vise jaws and exposing only enough of the work piece to safely complete the machining task at hand. As such hiking it up on parallels should be ovoided.

There was no real height issue with me clamping the collet block in the vise. By laying one parallel on its side raising the collet block up high and outside the jaws of the vise was avoided. Two low ones mentioned would have given the proper side to side support with out raising the collet block to an uncomfortable height above the top of the vise jaws.

Parallels will flex when laid on their side without center support, they should be used standing up were they offer a sound structural method of raising work pieces to a safe and ideal work height.

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 15, 2009)

53) Yesterday I made the last of the parts to complete my version of Elmer's #44. The original plans do not include the flywheel I added.                   






54) To give the project a finished look I cut and routed it's wooden base. As usual I applied four square rubber feet under neath for stability. According to "Honey" the wood bases make my projects suitable for display in the living areas of our home.






55) The picture below shows the intake side with its 3/16" model pipe used for connecting the air supply line.






56) This macro close-up shows the pivot pin and the E-clips I used to hold it in place. The two 1/16" linkage pins were not pinned in place. Instead I used low strength loctite and longer pins. Their longer length gives me something to grab onto in case they should ever need to be removed.






57) This is the business end that shows all the small linkage pieces used to transfer motion from the rotating crank to the single slide valve that operates the two cylinders. This fascinating part of the design compelled me to build this model.






58) This side shows the added exhaust manifold that I made late last night. It was created due partly to a problem I encountered during a feverish attempt to see it run. When I connected the air supply the engine refused to run. I tried setting the eccentric in every conceivable position. No go! All the engine would do is hiss. Then it dawned on me! I had mistakenly connected the air supply line to the exhaust side! This is what can and does happen when I get excited. After switching it, and a few adjustments of the eccentric the motor began to run! Wow, what a relief. The engine Runs well on less than one pound of air pressure!!! At three to four pounds its screaming fast! As Ripley would say, "Believe it or not". 






59) With the added exhaust manifold I won't make that silly mistake again. Admittedly though, I also added it for its visual interest.

I hope you enjoyed following my build, as much as I enjoyed sharing it with you!
Below is a video I added to finish off this post. During its production I adjusted the air pressure a few times to demonstrate the engine running slower and faster.






If a picture is worth a thousand words, "then a video tells it all." -MB

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ld4ca2aha1E[/ame]


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## mklotz (Nov 15, 2009)

Beautiful work, MB. Very professional looking.

Like you, I too was drawn to build the engine by the unusual valving and the interesting linkage motion.

I love the exhaust 'muffler'. I think I'll add one to mine. (If it makes you feel any better, I tried to pump air into the exhaust a few times too.)


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## Twmaster (Nov 15, 2009)

That is magnificent MB! I love the looks of that. Bravo. Well done!


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## ozzie46 (Nov 15, 2009)

NEAT!! This goes on the list too. Lets see, I'm almost 63, Hummm, Heaven just has to have machine shops. :big: :big:

 Ron


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 15, 2009)

Thanks Marv for the wonderful compliment! 

Did you notice that it (muffler) matches up with the style of the guide spigots on the stuffing box?

I used a little creativity in the past to eliminate the unnecessarily simple exhaust pipes on a few previous builds. I made all of them with out any drawing or measuring.

-MB


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## joe d (Nov 15, 2009)

MB

That's a great looking job. Congratulations :bow: :bow: :bow:

Joe


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## lazylathe (Nov 15, 2009)

Absolutely Beautiful!!

Love the looks, the sound and the motion of the linkage!!!

Surely the work of a master craftsman!!! :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## Deanofid (Nov 15, 2009)

Runs great!
Looks pretty as can be!
'Nuff said.

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 15, 2009)

First...thanks for the reply on my question.

Secondly...wonderful work! At 2:30 there was an audible gasp from me...the slow smooth running, and the sound,....very very nice. Thanks.
Great ride too.


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## rake60 (Nov 15, 2009)

Amazing build MB! :bow: 

Rick


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## ariz (Nov 16, 2009)

very well done, well painted, very nice running engine :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## cfellows (Nov 16, 2009)

Wow... that was a fast build. And what a gorgeous result. Excellent work and craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing it with us.

Chuck


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## JMI (Nov 16, 2009)

Very sharp looking machine. This is a great hobby 

Jim


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## ttrikalin (Nov 17, 2009)

As Zee said, 
I too am impressed by how low the RPMs get and how smooth it runs. :bow: :bow: :bow:

tom


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## Jack B (Nov 21, 2009)

Very nice engine now I have the time to look I am finding good things.
Cograt's on a nice runner.   Jack


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 21, 2009)

Jack B  said:
			
		

> Very nice engine now I have the time to look I am finding good things.
> Cograt's on a nice runner.  Jack



Thanks Jack!

Its a great little engine design that I whole heartily recommend.

Elmer really put out some great plans for us to enjoy building!

-MB


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## ttrikalin (Nov 21, 2009)

Metal Butcher, 

which engine is depicted in your avatar? Is it one of Elmer's?

tom


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## kvom (Nov 21, 2009)

I like the way your builds seem to have an "art deco" feel. Nicely done once again.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 21, 2009)

ttrikalin  said:
			
		

> Metal Butcher,
> 
> which engine is depicted in your avatar? Is it one of Elmer's?
> 
> tom



Yes, that's my modified version of Elmer's #11 Radial.

Took me a while to hunt down the thread. It started out in the "Questions and answers section on page 26.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4259.0

It's a really nice model to build.

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 21, 2009)

I just remembered that the engine was also posted in "Pictures and videos.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4364.0

-MB


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## ttrikalin (Nov 21, 2009)

Beautiful. Thank you.


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## Troutsqueezer (Nov 21, 2009)

MB, thanks for posting the build. I've been trying to decide on my second engine and your posts helped me to make up my mind, #44 it is. My first engine with a steam chest, it'll be fun. 

-TS


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 21, 2009)

Troutsqueezer  said:
			
		

> MB, thanks for posting the build. I've been trying to decide on my second engine and your posts helped me to make up my mind, #44 it is. My first engine with a steam chest, it'll be fun.
> 
> -TS



You will love building it. Its much nicer in real life than the poor quality photos on the scanned copies of the plan.

I look forward to seeing your progress!

-MB


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## Maryak (Nov 22, 2009)

MB,

Don't quite know how I missed this build, might have something to do with relocating and being off the air for too long  - In any event please accept my apologies. :bow:

Wonderful job and a really terrific runner - Congratulations. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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