# Another one underway



## tel (Mar 8, 2010)

During my recent cruising around the net I came across this site which has a wealth of potential models just waiting to be made. I was particularly taken by the very top one, a double cylinder horizontal oscillator.





Been thinking about it for a few days, and I reckoned that the only really tricky bit would be getting the base done. If I can do that without making a complete dog's breakfast of it, then the rest should flow along fairly easily. Thought about, and discarded, notions of casting it, or hogging it out of the solid (life's too short) so we are back to fabrication. A suitable bit of sheet was unearthed from the ju.. reserve supplies, and a stasrt made today. Of course, true to the nature of these things, at this point I ran out of acetylene, so it has ground to a halt until I can lay some more in.





I'll insert the usual disclaimer here - this will be a 'sort of' model of the full size thing, as I"m working from this one photo and much of it will have to be eyballed and guestimated.

Let the fun begin.


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## PaulG (Mar 8, 2010)

Tel, that's one nice looking engine, have fun on the build. Great site link!! 

Paul


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## 4156df (Mar 8, 2010)

Tel,
As usual, I'll be following along with my jaw dropped. I'm looking forward to watching you at work.
Dennis


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 8, 2010)

A nice looking engine Tel. The engine in the picture looks like it was meant to do some work. I'll be watching your build right up to the point where you paint it 

Cheers,
Phil


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## bearcar1 (Mar 8, 2010)

What a terrific collection of engines at that site. Some of them I am familiar with and some I have never heard of or seen before. Tel, I know that you will persevere in the fabrication of that base and we all can't wait to see what techniques you use to achieve the goal.

BC1
Jim


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## Seanol (Mar 8, 2010)

Tel,
Subscribed to your build. Looks fantastic!

Sean


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## SBWHART (Mar 8, 2010)

This looks another interesting build Tel, I'll be watching with interest.

Have fun

Stew


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## Jasonb (Mar 8, 2010)

Tel, if you click the photo on Prestons site you will get two other views that show the otherside & a close up, same with most of their stock

Jason


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## tel (Mar 8, 2010)

Thanks blokes, as I said, getting the base more or less right will be the make or break of this 'un. Looks promising at this stage.

Jason, I didn't realise that with the pics, thanks heaps - got a lot clearer idea of it now. Can't for the life of me figure how to save those other two tho. Any ideas?


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## Jasonb (Mar 8, 2010)

Can't for the life of me figure how to save those other two tho. Any ideas?
[/quote]

Wot these two 












Jason

If you right click the first image then click "copy shortcut" it gives it as .....1.jpg, just tried 2.jpg & 3.jpg


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## tel (Mar 8, 2010)

Got 'em, thank you so much! The only reservation I have now is that metallic green paint - can't see that as being the original colour somehow.


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## kcmillin (Mar 8, 2010)

Hi Tel, interesting build. Since you are making this from pictures, how are you getting your measurments? Or are you desiging an engine based on this one?

kel


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## Jasonb (Mar 8, 2010)

On things like this you have to work from what you know. The flywheel is 12", bore 2" and the stroke 5". its just a case of proportioning all the other parts from these known sizes.

Jason


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## arnoldb (Mar 8, 2010)

Another interesting build project Tel 

The port faces & passages will be a very interesting part, judging from the position of the inlet/exhaust pipes.

And yes, I agree; the colour is not entirely pleasing 

Regards, Arnold


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## Maryak (Mar 8, 2010)

Tel,

Thanks for the link - Bookmarked 

Best Regards
Bob


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## metalmad (Mar 10, 2010)

hay Mate
nice looking project

another one to watch lol
surprised so many aussies on this site
I love it
cheers Pete


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## bentprop (Mar 10, 2010)

Nice chunky one,Tel.Are you sure that's metallic paint?Just looks like high gloss green to me.But agreed,it's a bit too light for a machine.There's also rather a lot of it
So if the full size flywheel is 12",what scale are you building at?If it's more than 3' it's gonna be a fat little bugger,ain't it :big:


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## 4156df (Mar 10, 2010)

I guess there's no accounting taste. I thought the green was pretty attractive. Maybe I'd better get some other opinions before I pick the color for my tractor. 
Dennis

P.S. Looking forward to the build.


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## tel (Mar 11, 2010)

Thanks all. Got in a set a lean gas and finished welding the top plate to the sides, and cleaned 'em up a bit, also roughed out some material for the pads for main bearings and cylinder bearings - no pics as yet, camera batteries are on the charger now. 

Hans, that looks mighty like metallic paint on my monitor at least, but I could be mistaken. The original intention was to make it in 1:4 scale, but owing to a slight technical hitch (read- I buggered up my initial guestimates) it will now be closer to 1:3 so yes, pretty chunky - the base is 4 1/4" x 7 1/8".

Arnold, I don't expect that a little engine like this was set up for reversing, so I don't anticipate too much trouble with the ports and passages.

Dennis, I don't mind the actual shade of green so much, it's the metallic look that doesn't sit well with me. Not in keeping for an engine of the era at all.

Years ago, at a live steam convention I saw a Simplex that had been built by a panel beater/spray painter - it was finished in black and grey epoxy paint and the finish was quite attractive and technically flawless BUT the engine just didn't wear it well at all. Just my opinion, of course.

Some pics tomorrow if I get back from the salt mine with enough light left.


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## tel (Mar 12, 2010)

Progress thus far - the pads are just sitting roughly in position, but it's starting to bear a passing resemblance to an engine base.


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 12, 2010)

Really nice work Tel. I enjoy watching you work the torch. :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


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## tel (Mar 16, 2010)

Hey, this thing might not be a complete shambles after all! The pads and tabs to hold the sub base fitted. In a stunning victory for lack-of-planning I managed to fit the tabs first (flush riveted) making installing the screws at the rear corners a job for a double jointed octopus.





The roughed out sub base fitted - it's starting to look a bit like the picture in me 'ead.


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## ToniTD1490 (Mar 17, 2010)

Very nice choice Tel, I hope to enjoy with your progress so much as the last twin cyllinder engine. I like how you build this engine. Please could you put any sketch with the measures? I know that is a boring job, but could you add some element of mesure known as a reference in yours pics. Thanks Tel I enjoy a lot of with your engines, you built them so "easy". My apologies with me English as you know I am from Spain and languages are our unresolved matters. 


Toni


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## tel (Mar 18, 2010)

Thanks toni - I don't have much in the way of drawings, but I'll gather up such rough sketches as I have and post 'em.

Made a start on the main bearing housings today.

Enough material for the two housings, plus some for holding, was cut off and machined to the required width (1.750"). Then it was set up in the 4 jaw and the 'uprights' section turned to 1.160" - it was done this way to produce a bit of radius on the outer sides of the uprights.





The openings were roughed out, the pieces separated from the parent stock, and most of the milling done, and the mounting holes drilled





Temporarily bolted to the base. The alignment looks to be pretty close


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 18, 2010)

Hi Tel,
Neat trick on making that radius. That's one of those things I would look at in the past and wonder "how'd you do that?". A nice detail :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


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## ToniTD1490 (Mar 18, 2010)

Tel I should be wathching your work all time. Thanks for sharing your "art" with us and for the reference in your pics.

Toni


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## tel (Mar 20, 2010)

I know this is going to be a disappointment, but rather than go with the big. square crankshaft y'awl were expecting me to make, I decided to go with a smaller, round one - less chance of binding this way!


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## Jasonb (Mar 20, 2010)

Well as you have put those bearings in you could have gone the whole way and machined them with flanges to stop them moving sideways 

Comming along well' I'll have to find you another site with some more engines when this one is finished

Jason


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## tel (Mar 20, 2010)

Yes mate - get lookin'.

As far as the flanged bearings go - they won't be able to move out because of the crank arms, nor in because of the flywheel, so where they gonna go?


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## SBWHART (Mar 20, 2010)

Looking good Tel

Its giving me ideas how to go about the grasshopper build I want to do at some point in the future.

Thanks for showing

Stew


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## Jasonb (Mar 20, 2010)

> so where they gonna go



The whole lot could move sideways as one unit, but I expect you will have the oil cup threads a little longer than the top plates so they locate into the bearings to stop them moving 

Stew, when the traction engine is finished I will be doing a doubled up Easton & Anderson grasshopper, all fabricated.


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## tel (Mar 20, 2010)

> but I expect you will have the oil cup threads a little longer than the top plates so they locate into the bearings to stop them moving Wink



 ;D That was the plan.


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## tel (Mar 20, 2010)

Toni, here are the only two sketches I have so far - both are rough approximations that changed somewhat when I got on the metal, but they will give you the rough idea.


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## ToniTD1490 (Mar 20, 2010)

Thanks, I appreciate very much your effort Tel. The sketches are very clear and
 I hope you will have so fun building the engine as us wathching your work.

Toni


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## tel (Mar 21, 2010)

No trouble Toni - I'll post anything that looks worthwhile in future - usually I just bin those when I've done with 'em.


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## tel (Mar 22, 2010)

Well, I said at the start that this project would be on if I could make the base - looks to me like we have GO. Wot's all y'awl think?


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## 4156df (Mar 23, 2010)

Tel,
I'd say it's a definite go! I'm excited about seeing the rest of this come together.
Dennis


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## PaulG (Mar 23, 2010)

Tel, looks really fine to me, but I cant see the metal flake in the paint ???

Paul


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## GailInNM (Mar 23, 2010)

It looks like a winner to me Tel. I think you are committed now.  ;D
Gail in NM


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## Maryak (Mar 23, 2010)

Go go go and tel tel tel all. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Mar 23, 2010)

Thanks all - looks like we have us a project.

Nah Paul, I went thru and picked all the metal flakes out.


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## PaulG (Mar 23, 2010)

Tel, Do you have to cut the base for connecting rod clearance, or did you design the bearing blocks higher/taller ? 

Paul


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## tel (Mar 23, 2010)

I added a little height to what I thought, and am hoping to get away without doing the cutouts. Pretty sure I can, even if it means shortening the stroke a little.


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## b.lindsey (Mar 23, 2010)

Tel,
That looks fantastic, quite a transformation from the first few pictures. Is it just painted or is it powder coated? From these last pics it almost looks like a powder coating. Looking forward to the rest of the build !!

Bill


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## tel (Mar 23, 2010)

Thanks Bill - no powder coating tho' - just a $5.99 can of Brunswick Green spray. That's what I like about fabricating - you can take a frew old bits of rubbish and make 'em look a million bucks.

Just been admiring your B&S tank BTW - now _there's _a nice bit of work!


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 23, 2010)

Looks great tel.
Indicates some great stuff to come.


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 23, 2010)

Tel,
I'm looking forward to your build progress. A+ on the base - can't wait to see all the parts attached to it.

Cheers,
Phil


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## ToniTD1490 (Mar 23, 2010)

Tel I am look forward to see the building progress. The base looks very nice. I have a doubt. is the base of base aluminum?  The rest is 1/16" sheet steel nice bended and welded with silver alloy isn't it? I don't apreciate very well. I predict an engine of the month, without any doubt. Thanks another time for sharing this engine with us.

Toni


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## tel (Mar 24, 2010)

Might be a bit of a delay with progress, as I have a display coming up mid April, and I need to get my stuff ready for it.

Yes Toni, the bottom of the base is a piece of 4mm aluminium, held on by four screws and a fillet of body filler applied around the joint. No silver solder in the uper though - it's just oxy/acet welded - a little filler wire for the initial tacks and the the plates fused together without filler (or nearly so)


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## arnoldb (Mar 25, 2010)

Great going Tel, definitely a GO Thm:



> you can take a few old bits of rubbish and make 'em look a million bucks


Been trying that myself, but it still comes out rubbish ;D - so you must have a secret !

Regards, Arnold


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## tel (Apr 4, 2010)

Took a break from preparing for the dsisplay tody and started on the flywheel components


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## metalmad (Apr 5, 2010)

looking great Tel
cheers Pete.


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## tel (Apr 6, 2010)

OK, four segments and four packing pieces are cut from the smaller ring, and assembled in a crude jig.





And silver soldered together, the spokes are way too long at this point





Not the tidiest silver soldering ever, but sound jointsd with good fillets


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## kellswaterri (Apr 6, 2010)

Tel, I LIke your thinking... 8)


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## ksouers (Apr 6, 2010)

Nice cheat on the curved spokes, Tel.

The soldering jig looks like it would come in handy for whittling the spokes down to size, too.


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## Philjoe5 (Apr 6, 2010)

It's entertaining watching you work Tel. I believe I can almost smell the torch fumes . Looking forward to the finished flywheel.

Cheers,
Phil


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## bearcar1 (Apr 6, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Nice cheat on the curved spokes, Tel.
> 
> The soldering jig looks like it would come in handy for whittling the spokes down to size, too.



You know I was just thinking the very same thing K'.

Tel, that is going to be so cool when you get done. Terrific thinking outside the box. Well done.

BC1
Jim


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## tel (Apr 7, 2010)

;D Wet today, so got a bit more progress made. Turned the big ring (rim) down to size, with a 0.005" deep seating recess in the ID. Rough trimmed the spokes, then set 'em on the mandrel and turned down to a close fit in the rim.

A dry fit.





Hung on the engine for a look-see - I think the proportions are about right.


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## PaulG (Apr 7, 2010)

The flywheel looks nice Tel.  Did you heat the rim to get spokes in ?

Paul


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## tel (Apr 7, 2010)

No Paul, I turned it to a very close fit (I actually took a truing skim of the od of the rim with it assembled dry) then filed shallow grooves in the tops of the four spokes and put it together with retaining compound.


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## b.lindsey (Apr 7, 2010)

Great work on the flywheel Tel. This is a very interesting design and you are doing some amazing work with it. Looking forward to more!!

Bill


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 7, 2010)

tel  said:
			
		

> Rough trimmed the spokes, then set 'em on the mandrel and turned down to a close fit in the rim.



Super looking flywheel tel.

I'm struggling to figure out how you made sure the outer ring was concentric. Can you tell me more? Or have more pictures? Thanks.


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## Philjoe5 (Apr 7, 2010)

Great looking flywheel Tel. I would have thought you could only get such a piece from a casting.

Cheers, 
Phil


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## tel (Apr 7, 2010)

Thanks blokes - it was a bit of a fiddle, but I was constrained to working with what I had on hand, hence the method.

Zee - I'm probably lucky, but my 30 y/o Pratt Burnerd 3 jaw still holds pretty true over most of it's range, so the procedure is/was this.

The ring started life as a scrapyard bronze bush - I got two of these years ago and this is the 4th (and last ) flywheel I've got out of 'em.

1. Hold the ring in the three jaw by the inner diameter and face, turn the od down to a bit oversize.

2. Reverse in chuck and face other side down to a bit over the finished dimension.

3. Transfer to 4 jaw, holding by the OD and clock true. Then bore out the ID to size.

4. Bore a little step - no more than 0.005" or so, for the spokes to rest on.

5. Trim spokes oversize and mount on true running mandrel. Turn down to a close fit in the recess. (mine was a _light_ tap fit)

6. Assemble wheel and, still holding with the mandrel take light truing cuts until it runs true.

Mine has yet to have it's final trim, which it will need, as there is just a little 'float' in it at the moment - noticeable, but still better than some finished flywheels I have done. All in all I'm pretty happy with it.


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 7, 2010)

Thanks very much tel. That was helpful!!!


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## tel (Apr 8, 2010)

Glad to be of assistance Zee.

Thus far I have stuck reasonably close to the original engine as pictured. Today a radical departure.


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## Jasonb (Apr 8, 2010)

> Today a radical departure



What, you have run out of light green paint? its now two tome green with a red oxide flywheel :

Jason


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## tel (Apr 8, 2010)

;D Oddly enough, both those greens came out of the same can - got to try and do something about that, but I'm not real sure what yet. Probably a strip down and repaint a bit further along.

 Red Oxide???? _TUSCAN RED_ if you please! Ah well, _I_ like it.


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## ToniTD1490 (Apr 8, 2010)

Tel the flywheel looks superb. Very good work. I think that the diameter is 4", 1/4" the bore , but is it the width 1/2"? I should like to know this, when I'll try to build this engine. I am an optimist by nature and perhaps I could be able to built one. Thanks Tel, really I enjoy watching your fantastic work.

Toni


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## Maryak (Apr 8, 2010)

Musta been summat ont brush. Not sure which time.

Great work irrespective of the colour. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Apr 8, 2010)

Thanks for the kind word blokes.

Bob - that's a spray can of Brunswick Green, 2 coats put on over grey primer - I have no explanation for the difference unless the atmospheric conditions at the time(s) played some part.

Tony - the flywheel is a little larger than that - 4 1/2" OD, 5/16" bore and 5/8" rim width, with a hub width of 3/4". I'm sure you could do one ok, not at all difficult, just fiddly.


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## kcmillin (Apr 8, 2010)

I like the green color. Its kinda soothing, Like pea soup. Ya gotta make it standout somehow.

The entire thing looks excelent. Great Job. The flywheel is beautiful.


kel


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## Maryak (Apr 8, 2010)

tel  said:
			
		

> Bob - that's a spray can of Brunswick Green, 2 coats put on over grey primer - I have no explanation for the difference unless the atmospheric conditions at the time(s) played some part.



Well, bugger me.  Very canny. : Was it shaken or stirred before application ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Apr 9, 2010)

;D Did a James Bond on it both times - the bearings were painted about two days after the base.


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