# Refurbishing an Old Model Steam Engine.



## Tony Bird (May 16, 2016)

Hi, 

Thanks to a friend I am the proud possessor of the parts of an old fairly large model vertical steam engine.  




The following photographs were taken of the engine being taken apart to assess its condition and what will have to be done to the existing parts before work is started on making the missing parts.  As will be seen unfortunately isn't very well made.
























































As perhaps can be seen from the photographs the casting are very good but alas the machining of them not so.  The valve fitting the steam chest is all that is left of the regulator that would have been operated by a governor, there is what might have been used as a drain cock in the top of the cylinders and the piston has a piston ring.

All the parts of the engine have been cleaned.  First the parts were washed in paraffin, then washed in soapy water, and then boiled for 10 minutes or so in washing soda.  Then brass parts were then scrubbed with wire wool and soap in warm water.  The rusty steel parts were put in a caustic soda/water solution which loosens and removes the rust before resorting to the wire wool and soap.  The larger screws and nuts having been cleaned were oil blackened, because of the rusting the very small screws will have to be replaced.  The result of the cleaning.

Boiling in washing soda best done with your own pan when the domestic authorities are away.





Just out of the pan.





The cleaning helps in the removal of fixings.





After the wire wool and soap treatment.





The remainder of parts treated.








The small screws that will have to be replaced.





A plugged hole in the crank.





As can be seen from the photographs it isn't very well made.  However given that it was possibly made by an amateur using probably a treadle lathe, a hand powered drill a hand shaping machine all using carbon tools.  The most used tool probably being the file and all being done in indifferent lighting maybe it isn't so bad?

Because it is so out of square it has been mounted on a flat board to show where problems are.

Getting the axle over a centre line.





Centring the engine over the axle.





A bit of an issue with the cross head and the piston rod.





A little out of vertical.





Leaning a bit?





Not quite square?





A little bit out?













So far it has taken about a day and a half to get this far; I suspect it will take some time before I decide how to progress with the restoration.  The new parts needed, will have to be researched.  Correcting the lining up of components without too much re- engineering will be interesting.  If anyone has photographs/drawings of a similar old engine which would be helpful.  Though the engine came to me from Germany the screws are BSW and BSF the bore is 1.3/8" and the stroke 1.5" so it is likely made in the UK.   If anyone has an unwanted 9" flywheel???

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 18, 2016)

Hi,

Yesterday SWBO went to London for a grandchild fix, so I had a longer than usual in the workshop.  Having a little time left after doing what I wanted to do, I did a bit of work on the engine on the engine.

As it was straight forward as to what had to be done to the crankshaft so it was decided to work on this.  The crank pin and the bearing slots were corroded.  The crank pin was out of line with the shaft and the bearings eccentric to the shaft.  There were two reasons the crank pin was out of line the shoulder that mated with the crank web wasn't flat and the crank web itself wasn't at right angles to the shaft.  So the first job addressed was to square the shoulder removing as little metal as possible,  with this done the corrosion on the crank pin was turned off again removing as little metal as possible.  Later if the crank pin is deemed too thin it can always be sheathed.











To work on the crank shaft its ends had to have centres drilled in them.  With this done the corrosion on the bearing was turned away reducing their size from ½ to 10 mm, as well as being corroded the bearings were quite eccentric to their shaft.  With the same set up as for turning the bearings the face of the crank web was squared to the shaft, oddly the back of the crank web was square to the shaft.




















With centres now on the shaft it will be possible to true the shaft itself to fit an eccentric and flywheel when they are made or found.  With the bearings on the shaft reduced in size the main bearing that I have will have to be sheaved.  This will be the next job along with making a copy of it.  This will be done at the back end of other jobs as I am still thinking of possible ways to resolve poor lining up of the cylinder and its stand.  A thick piece of sheet metal needs to be found to make a bed plate to mount the bearings and engine stand on.


Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (May 18, 2016)

Tony,  I will be avidly watching this one!  Glad you decided to post.  You sure get a lot done in a day.
DW


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## Tony Bird (May 19, 2016)

Hi,

I have made a start roughing out a bearing.  A couple of drawings have been made.









And I found a piece of 1/2" thick brass which used to be part of a clock case to make the bearing. One of the holes in the brass had to be plugged.

















Regards Tony,


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## Tony Bird (May 21, 2016)

Hi,

Before further work can be done on the new engine bearing the original bearing needs to be made usable.  The bearing hole in the original bearing is now too large for the cleaned up slot in the crank shaft and the hole isn't round.





The hole was made round.





Plugs were soft soldered into each half bearing.





Half of the plug was machined from the bearings.





The bearing hole drilled.





Some further work was done on the new bearing.











Both bearings to date.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 21, 2016)

Hi,

Well today has been a little more energetic than I had anticipated.  My thoughts on what to do next on the engine was to find some material to make the engine's base plate from, to this end I went to my model engineering club in search of a 7"x 6" sheet of metal about a 1/4" or maybe 5/16" thick.  The club holds a large quantity of steel for maintenance and members use.  But try as I did I couldn't find anything suitable!  Then a member who I had mentioned my problem to said well you could cut the end off this pointing to a 5 foot length of black mild steel 7" wide, just one minor problem it was 15 mm thick!  Well as nothing else was likely to come to light so I thought why not?  It certainly will be stable!  So one of the club's band saws was used to cut 6" off the steel sheet; the piece cut off had a bit of box section steel tack welded to it which was removed with a Birmingham screw driver.





I am fortunate to live only about one and a half miles from the model club and I had been dropped off by SWMBO the intention being to walk home.  Walk I did but towards the end of the walk the lump of metal was getting a bit heavy and it started to rain!

In the workshop the remains of the tack welds was removed first with a cold chisel and lump hammer and finished by filling.











My original intention using thinner material was to sink the engine's base plate into a wooden frame high enough to give flywheel clearance.  The lump of steel I had only had square  sides where it had been cut the other two sides had a shallow radius.  There is often a certain amount of evolution in what I make often caused by the materials available.  So the wooden base idea was scrapped the base plate would now be supported by columns yet to be sourced.  To this end the flat sides of the steel base plate were radius using a file.








With the energetic bits over with some work was done on the new bearing.  More filling; the edges of the bearing had a radius put on them and the column part split to make a bearing cap.  Then two of the bearing parts were hard soldered together.





After cleaning up and a bit of cutting and filling the new bearing now looks like this.





At end of play today the parts so far made and worked on.





Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (May 21, 2016)

Tony, what is a Birmingham screwdriver?


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## 10K Pete (May 21, 2016)

Cymro77 said:


> Tony, what is a Birmingham screwdriver?



Gas wrench.  ;D

Pete


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## Ogaryd (May 21, 2016)

Is that the same as a hot wrench?


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## 10K Pete (May 21, 2016)

Ogaryd said:


> Is that the same as a hot wrench?



In the boat yard we call it the blue spanner. Usually a propane torch applied to seized fasteners/fittings along with some penetrating oil.

The Birmingham Screwdriver is actually a cutting torch.

Pete


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## Tony Bird (May 22, 2016)

Hi,

*Tony, what is a Birmingham screwdriver?*

Apologies I forgot the international aspect of HMEM.  Birmingham screw driver is British engineering slang for a hammer; the theory being that the slot in a screw is just for removing it.

Regards Tony.


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## 10K Pete (May 22, 2016)

Well, that certainly puts paid to what the guys here thought a BSD was! 
Some one here got it wrong some time ago and for the 12 years I've been
hanging around the yard they've called a cutting torch a BSD. I'll just have 
to straighten them out!

Ummm, what's your slang for a cutting torch???  

Pete


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## deverett (May 22, 2016)

10K Pete said:


> Ummm, what's your slang for a cutting torch???
> 
> Pete


Gas Axe

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## 10K Pete (May 22, 2016)

deverett said:


> Gas Axe
> 
> Dave
> The Emerald Isle



Thank you! I've heard that term over here also....

Pete


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## Cymro77 (May 22, 2016)

Thanks Pete for the enlightenment!


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## Tony Bird (May 22, 2016)

Hi Pete,

Your question answered!  I haven't heard that expression though; I do gas and electric weld after a fashion, I am largely self taught so not really have had any contact with people that can weld.

I had other jobs to do today so didn't get a lot done on the engine.  The screws for the new bearing  have been made.  The bearing has been bored  for the plugs to be soldered in and the plugs made and the top of the bearing has been profiled.

















Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 24, 2016)

Hi,

Before soldering the plugs into the new bearing like was done with the original bearing the top of the new bearing needed to be shaped.  To this end some filling buttons were machined and hardened.








A piercing saw was used to cut around the buttons the result being tidied up with a file.








With bearings plugged and drilled the bearings were run in at low speed for a few minutes.





Some oil cups have been made and fitted which is about as much that can be done to the bearings and shaft for the moment.  They could be fitted to the new base plate but given the state of the columns I doubt the shaft will end up in the centre of the plate.  So these parts of the engine will be left like this for a bit.





I still haven't decided how to address the problems with the columns so the cylinder adjustments will be next.  The steam chest is not parallel to the cylinder bore and is soldered to the cylinder.  So it was removed and machined so the mating sides are parallel.











Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (May 24, 2016)

Getting more and more interesting - I am learning as I read. 
Have put some of your ideas to good use already.  Wish I were as handy as you in setting up the  four jaw chuck, I would use it much more, especially with my larger lathe and chuck.   DW


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## Tony Bird (May 25, 2016)

Hi David,

*Wish I were as handy as you in setting up the four jaw chuck, I would use it much more, especially with my larger lathe and chuck.*

I have a number of different size 4 jaw chucks and use them a lot.  They are great when you needed to be accurate but most of the time they are used for holding odd shaped objects.

To continue:

With two of the sides of the steam chest parallel the next problem to be addressed was to make the valve face of the cylinder parallel to its bore.  There was a 0.50 mm difference in wall thickness between one end of the cylinder and the other.  A piece of brass shim was glued to the narrower end and filed until both ends of the cylinder were the same thickness.





The difference in height was checked on a surface table (sheet of glass).  There was about 1.5 mm difference between one end and the other.





Machining away the high end of the valve face would probably break into two holes in the side of it; these holes probably had had something to do with the missing governor gear.  So it was decided to plug these holes by soldering rods into them.  First the threads in the holes were removed by drilling and over length plugs that were a bit loose in the holes were made.  As it was important that their was a good penetration of solder and as they were  blind holes small pieces of solder and flux were placed in the holes and the plugs placed on top of them.  When the cylinder was heated and the soldered had melted the extended plugs were tapped down with a hammer not a BSD which would be too heavy!





After cleaning up the cylinder it was mounted in a 4 jaw chuck for machining.





Difference.





With the valve face now parallel with the bore the ends of the cylinder were squared with the bore.





With both ends of the bore now square the bare of the cylinder was lapped.





The bore isn't brilliant so later after checking that the engine will work I might fit a sleeve.





As there is no register on either cylinder cover it was decided to make one.  Before doing this to the top cylinder cover a threaded bush was soldered into the hole for the drain cock.  First the body of the drain cock was annealed and straighten on one end threaded.









The top cylinder cover with soldered bush was then machined.  It won't be as easy to machine the other cover!





The bits being played with yesterday assembled.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 26, 2016)

Hi,

New studs and nuts have been made for the valve rod which has been straighten.





Slight bend.





Checking after the machining that the valve is still loose in its srap.





After a lot of thought the system used to turn a shoulder on the lower cylinder cover,








The metal of the engine stand has been found to be malleable so has been bent parallel with the piston rod. 




A new screw to hold the cross head to the piston rod has been made and fitted.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 26, 2016)

Hi,

I am at the point where the engine frame should be bolted to the new base plate, so to that end I had a look through my 'come in useful' box for something to lift the base plate up a bit.  I came across some bits that might or might not become a permanent part of the model: two pairs of candle sconce's, the candle columns having already been used for other jobs and as a bit of a bonus an aluminium flywheel which is too light but is something to play with was found.

The bits.





The sconce's the same but different.





It was decided to turn the heavier pair to the same size as the smaller pair.  To this end the first sconce was mounted on a wooden mandrel in the lathe.





The sconce was first roughed out using a fixed tool.





This done the compound slide was removed from the lathe and a home made tool support was fitted to allow the hand turning required to finish the sconce.





After a bit of hand turning.





A lot of swarf later.








So with 'feet fitted to the base the engine now looks like this.











Whether the 'feet' will be come part of the engine remains to be seen.  Certainly the flywheel won't unless I can find a heavy ring to go around it.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 28, 2016)

Hi,

Not a lot of progress yesterday, other things to do as I am playing trains over this weekend at the CMES.  The four screws to secure the engine support to the base have been made and holes drilled and threaded in the base.  It took sometime to find the best line up but the cross head goes up and down in its guides and I think at right angles to where the crank axle will be.  It fits where it touches would be a good description.  A couple of photographs that were taken.

A bush was used to centre a centre punch in the support.





Two of the four screws made.





A provisional line up for the crank axle and bearings.





Not likely to do much more for the next couple of days.

Regards Tony.


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## gus (May 28, 2016)

Hi Tony,
Interesting project. Rebuilding the ancient model steam engine. Will be following your  project. I am back on the Howell V-2 Gas Engine after a three month break.


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## Tony Bird (May 31, 2016)

Hi Gus,

Good to hear that you are back at the bench.

Some progress has been made on restoring the model; just in case some material turns up that can be used to increase the weight of the flywheel the flywheel rim has been cleaned up.





A start has been made on making the big and small end of the connecting rod by using the remaining piece of brass from the clock case base that the bearing was made from.

















The small end roughed out.





A test fitting of the small end to the cross head.









When the big end has been finished it should be possible to fit the crank shaft and main bearing to the base plate.

Regards Tony.


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## bazmak (May 31, 2016)

oely work,very interesting.Congrats


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## bazmak (May 31, 2016)

Lovely work,very interesting.Congrats


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## Tony Bird (May 31, 2016)

Hi,

Not a very good day, I took SWMBO to the bus for London. While walking along the pavement I tripped and now have an impressive bruise on my forearm and some painful ribs!  Lucky I short and roundish if I was taller there could have been some real damage.  So I didn't get quite as much done today as I hoped.  The intention had been to finish the connecting rod and mount the bearings on the base plate.  well the connecting rod got done.

The crank pin has a hole drilled in it and even before I turned the rust off it didn't have a large diameter.  My best guess was that it had held a retaining collar to hold the big end in place using a taper pin or screw.  But given the pins small diameter I wonder if it had been a shouldered bearing  that had held in place?  This was the way I decided to go.

The shouldered bush held in place using shellac to line up the holes drilled for tapping.





The finished bush and pin.





Assembled bush and pin fitted to the crank.





The big end was shellac to a stub mandrel to turn shoulders on it.





The big and small end have been cleaned up a bit and fitted to a temporary connecting rod to get a centre length.





Might get the bearings fitted to the base plate tomorrow.

Regards Tony.


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## Twizseven (May 31, 2016)

Tony,

I'm staggered at what you have achieved so far with this, from a complete and utter basket case to what looks as though it will be quite an eye catching model especially at the size it is.

Colin


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## Charles Lamont (Jun 1, 2016)

The unusually light columns give it an amusingly anthropomorphic air.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 1, 2016)

Hi Charles,

*The unusually light columns give it an amusingly anthropomorphic air.*

Yes it is a bit cartoonist.  In practical terms the columns could do with being a bit heavier with larger feet.

Still suffering with a couple of bruised ribs and another job so didn't get a lot done today.  A couple of brass spacers (washers) were made to go either side of the big end when fitted on the crank pin.

The drill is there to catch the spacer which is being parted off, saves crawling on the floor looking for it.





The bed plate has been drilled for the bearings.  With the engine to date  assembled it was turned over in the lathe for a bit





Video:  I wonder how many years it has been since the cross head went up and down in its guides?


https://youtu.be/q1hBiW-C6tg

Next job is to make 4 screws for the bearings and as yet I don't have a flywheel or a lump of metal to make the aluminium flywheel I have heavier the following job will be the eccentric, its strap and the valve rod .  Some drawing will have to be done to work out the valve travel needed.

Regards Tony


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## Barnbikes (Jun 1, 2016)

Tony Bird said:


> https://youtu.be/q1hBiW-C6tg



I see a slight wobble - is the crank bent?

Beautiful work done so far.


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## bazmak (Jun 1, 2016)

When the model is packed up on bits of wood,not fixed down and not dead centre to the lathe axis then you get movement or wobble.Not the fault of the engine but the setup.Good job and well done congrats will keep up with this post


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## Tony Bird (Jun 3, 2016)

Hi,

Some of the wobble can be attributed to the rusty shaft.  One of the first jobs done was to put centres on the shaft so its bearings and crank could be cleaned up.  As the shaft is in poor condition it is not quite concentric with its bearings.  This hopefully will be corrected when it is trued to fit a new eccentric and flywheel.  Also some of the wobble is due to its set up on the lathe.

Yesterday the screws were finished.





I drew out the position of the ports and the valve.  This engine never ran using this valve!  As can be seen by the drawing below as soon as the valve moves steam will go to both passageways and exhaust.





The slot in the valve needs to be a lot shorter for it to work.





It would be easy enough to make a new valve but I think I will try filling the original valve and machining a new slot.  Maybe later today.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 3, 2016)

Hi,

The valve recess has been filled with brass and silver solder and a new recess machined.

















A start has been made on making the eccentric strap.  A piece of bronze tube was used and another set of filling buttons made.























The bottom half of the eccentric strap needs to be finished, some screws made, an oil hole needs to drilled and an oil cup made and a spigot made and fitted to the eccentric strap for the valve rod.  Then the eccentric itself can be made and fitted.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Jun 4, 2016)

Tony,
You stated -  
"recess has been filled with brass and silver solder"  I am not sure how you achieved this - brass filings?  Solid piece of brass soldered in place?
Another technique I would like to understand.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 4, 2016)

Hi David,

*You stated - "recess has been filled with brass and silver solder" I am not sure how you achieved this - brass filings? Solid piece of brass soldered in place?*

It is just a roughly shaped piece of brass hard soldered in the hole and machined flat.  I haven't tried it but brass fillings mixed with solder it could work?

I have finished the eccentric strap.





But it was a bit late in the day to make a start on the eccentric so I made up some unions which will allow the engine to be tested on compressed air.  It is unlike that I will be able to steam test it as my test boilers aren't large enough.  If I get really enthusiastic I suppose I could connect the engine to one of my 5" gauge model locomotives.  As can be seen in the photograph the holes for the unions aren't perpendicular to the casting, there isn't much square in any of the engine.





Eccentric next and if I can find a flywheel it shouldn't be long before we can find out how well it will work.

Regards Tony.


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## kiwi2 (Jun 5, 2016)

Hi Tony,
             As far as the flywheel goes, can you get a bit of schedule 80 steam pipe of the right diameter, turn it to suit the flywheel and loctite it on? I've just made a flywheel from an offcut of 5" nominal bore pipe and the finished dimensions are 125mm ID with a wall thickness of 8mm.
Regards,
Alan C.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 5, 2016)

Hi Alan,

*As far as the flywheel goes, can you get a bit of schedule 80 steam pipe of the right diameter, turn it to suit the flywheel and loctite it on? I've just made a flywheel from an offcut of 5" nominal bore pipe and the finished dimensions are 125mm ID with a wall thickness of 8mm.*

What a good idea I will have to see what I can find.

A short day today as we have friends visiting later.  So I decided to put off making the eccentric and fit the flywheel to the shaft instead.  The hole in the flywheel was bored out and the shaft turned to fit it.  The flywheel was then trued on the shaft.  I have several smaller fly wheels in stock and decided to fit one as a pulley along with the flywheel.  This flywheel/pulley was bought a few years ago for £1 as it had a blow hole in its centre, there is a thread on machining it somewhere.

Turning a shoulder on the shaft.





Truing the flywheel.





As the engine looks with flywheel &'pulley' fitted.












The flywheel pulley might just have enough mass to allow the engine to be checked on air.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 6, 2016)

Hi,

The eccentric was made and fitted today.

















At  the end of the day the engine looked like this.








I did time the engine up and try it on air.  But with no packing or gaskets the air came out everywhere, it did want to go and might have with a heavier flywheel.  I will strip the engine make and fit gaskets and I will also paint what is to be painted so it will be a couple of days before I can try an air test.  Both the piston and valve rods are very poor fits and I hope some packing will remove most of the leaks and I don't have to fit new rods, time will tell!

Regards Tony.


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## 10K Pete (Jun 6, 2016)

Looking good Tony! That sure is a leggy lookin' critter, isn't it?

Pete


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## Tony Bird (Jun 7, 2016)

Hi Pete,

*That sure is a leggy looking critter, isn't it?*

Yes, there has been a suggestion that the flywheel was mounted between the bearings.  I glad I didn't think of that, I don't fancy cutting a slot in 15 mm steel!

The engine has been stripped and the flywheel, engine support and base have been painted. 











The engine support was originally brass finished but is heavily verdigris which would take a lot of polishing to get rid of, and with arthritic hands it would require more effort than I am prepared to use so it was painted as the flywheel, other than the base plate all the other components will remain plain metal.

As can be seen from this photograph the piston isn't a good fit relying very much on the piston ring for a seal.





The feet have been polished and filled with plaster of Paris and will have some cork stuck to them.





The flywheel/pulley has been crowned to look as if it drives a flat belt.





The gaskets have been cut.





At the end of play today except for the engine support this is what everything looked like.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 8, 2016)

Hi, 

With the paint dry the engine is back in one piece. 



 

While apart and so as not to continue to use shim the two bearing were bolted together and bases machined.








The bearings back on the bed plate. 





Another view of the completed engine. 





The engine parts as received.





The engine does run on air but poorly.  The piston ring seems to do its job even the packing on the piston rod and valve rod seal after a fashion and no problem with the gaskets.  Running the engine on steam should find out how good the seals really are.  The lumpy running problem is caused by the position of the steam and exhaust ports in the cylinder.  So the ports will be plugged and new ones made.  I still have to source a heavy flywheel or a heavy ring for the existing one.  But this will have to wait until after the CMES Rally this weekend then a visit to the Midlands playing trains and visiting our children on the way home, so with a bit of luck I will get back to working on the engine in a couple of weeks. 

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 14, 2016)

Hi, 

A bit of a bonus from visiting the CMES's annual steam rally this year.  I spent the whole of my allowance from SWMBO for the weekend 





Nine inches in diameter but a bit porous. It has a threaded hole in its centre and another on its rim and it looks as if it was part of a machine. Before going away I had enough time to see if it was machinable. 








It looks OK but will have to wait until I get back to the workshop to finish it. 

Regards Tony.


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## AlbertdeWitte (Jun 14, 2016)

Tony

You are doing a great job here! Congrats


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## Tony Bird (Jun 15, 2016)

Hi, 

In my excitement in finding a heavier fly wheel I forgot to post some photographs.  As the engine wasn't running that well I was going to plug and re-drill the steam and exhaust ports but later decided to make a port cover with new potion ports and use the existing ports drilled in the cylinder.  The valve was lengthen to give some lap.  The position of the new ports had to suit the eccentric and the position of the ports in the cylinder so their position is a bit of a compromise which should work. 

Construction photographs. 















 

As I had a bit of time before we leave I did an air test on the engine.  Video at:

https://youtu.be/7BtYfaTf9Y4

Regards Tony.


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## AlbertdeWitte (Jun 15, 2016)

Great runner you got there. Congrats!


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## Cymro77 (Jun 16, 2016)

Tony,
IMHO this is not as elegant as some of your engines.  However what you have achieved with a relatively useless pile of metal pieces is truly "Incredible".   You "de man!"
th_wav


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## Tony Bird (Jun 23, 2016)

Hi,

Having spent the last ten days or so playing trains, visiting railways and going to see how well our latest granddaughter is doing it was back to the workshop today. The new larger cast iron flywheel was partially machined before we went away so today I finished the machining and painted it.  The engine now looks like this:







I spent some time playing with the timing and ran the engine on air again.  The heavier flywheel allowing the engine to turn over much more slowly.  The loud knock heard in the previous video has nearly disappeared tightening the loose gland nuts on the piston rod gland helped!  I have tested the engine on air and will down load a video later.  The engine will work at about 5 psi but is happier and smoother at 8 psi.





The clamps and jigs used to make the new parts of the engine.





There is just the incomplete governor valve to restore it won't work as there is no governor but as I have it, it seems a shame not to fit it.

Video to come when it is down loaded.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 23, 2016)

Hi,

Video at:

https://youtu.be/G597lZR4kwY

Regards Tony.


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## ShopShoe (Jun 23, 2016)

Very Good, Tony.

I have really enjoyed following this project of yours (and all of your projects).

Keep it up!

--ShopShoe


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## idahoan (Jun 23, 2016)

Very nice Tony!

I like the larger flywheel and it runs real nice!

Dave


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## Cymro77 (Jun 24, 2016)

Tony,
the engine certainly seems to sound better and look better with the new flywheel!  Performance definitely improved on that second video.  Great job!
DW


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## james_III (Jun 25, 2016)

Really nice outcome and I really like when someone fixed something old to live another day, makes me happy as well


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## Tony Bird (Jun 25, 2016)

Hi,

Thank you for the compliments.  Having fitted what remains of the governor's regulator in the steam chest and tidied up the exhaust connection I think the model is finished and I hope my friend is happy with what I have done with his gift.







I have tried to use all the original parts, the exceptions being some small screws, the piston ring and a part of the regulator housing.  I have also tried not to over clean or re-engineer too many of the parts; because of this I suspect that if the model was run on steam some of it would exit around the valve and piston rod glands along with the cock on top of the cylinder.

I suspect that the model never ran in its present form the steam ports and valve just didn't line up.  The only determinable wear was on the original bearing and the shaft and as the crank pin had been re-positioned I wonder if these parts came from another model?

In any event around 1900 give or take 20 years a model engineer probably in the UK made a model steam engine using hand powered tools in probably poor lighting conditions.  In the ME magazines of the period there are advertisements for casting to make steam powered generators to light your workshop, as the model might have had a governor maybe it was to be put to this use.  In any event someone a long time ago put a lot of effort into making the model.   It was an interesting project and I am very happy with the results.

Regards Tony.

Last photograph of the model; honest!


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## anded (Jul 22, 2016)

Tony
I am impressed over youre ability to  machine and repair old engines 

anded (anders )


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