# Restoring, finishing and upgrading a Dore Westbury Mk1 milling machine



## Canobi (Jun 10, 2018)

Hi folks 

First time poster long time lurker, mainly as I don't actully make model engines, my interst lies with tool making, with focus being on the smaller sized fixtures and tooling. My reason for posting is that I'm taking my first steps into machine restoration (which is another interest I seem to have developed somewhere along the line). The machine in question is my Dore Westbury Mk1 which is in desperate need of some TLC.IIts my first machine and it was discovered to be a non runner and quite a few details were left unfinished. So I've cut my teeth in the machining/engineering field learning what I need to fix it. Having spent nearly a year behind a lathe, and spending countless hours of research, I believe I'm now capable enough to tackle it head on and even make a few daring deviations from the original plans.

I will also be making a few tools along the way in order to perform some of the repair work and for making any new parts to replace those that are too worn or damaged, so this could be quite the adventure.

This is an ongoing project and I will update this post as things progress. Until then, stay safe, have fun and keep those chips flyin' 

Pt1


Pt2


Update


Update #2


Pt3


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## Canobi (Jun 14, 2018)




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## bazmak (Jun 14, 2018)

Following great interest.Well documented and presented.No doubt you will get plenty of help and advice


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## Canobi (Jun 15, 2018)

Thank you Bazmak


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## Canobi (Jun 17, 2018)

Hi folks 

Part 4 is up and I finally found out what was causing the lower section of the epicuclic pulley to run off kilter.


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## Canobi (Jun 22, 2018)

Update #4


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## clockworkcheval (Jun 23, 2018)

You make a nice job of very clearly showing the process of restoring your machine. A little point that may be of interest to you: I find it does great things for my spine of I up the height of the base table so that I look 15 degrees down from the horizontal to the job in hand. On average this means that my machines stand now 400 mm higher than their original design. I look forward to your next issues!


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## Canobi (Jun 23, 2018)

Thanks clockworkcheva 

My mill bench was cobbled together from discarding from my workplace and just happened to come to 33.5" in hight when it was finished. I find it maybe an inch or two low maybe but it's about right for me.


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## Canobi (Jun 23, 2018)

Part5 is now up.

In this episode in try an experimental technique to put a fine layer of brass on areas of my mill's main column support casting as a decorative precursor to being painted.

I've only seen one other person do this and he was applying brass to solid steel so I've not idea how it will take to cast iron..


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## Canobi (Jun 24, 2018)

Update #5

Column support casting progress.


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## rlukens (Jun 24, 2018)

Very interesting  posts. Thank you.
 I have to ask is the "hot brassing" any different than a coat of metalic paint?
Russ


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## Canobi (Jun 24, 2018)

Hi rlukens, thanks for taking a look 

I believe the brass plating will be a bit tougher than paint, and it can be buffed to a high sheen as well.


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## Wizard69 (Jun 28, 2018)

Canobi said:


> Part5 is now up.
> 
> In this episode in try an experimental technique to put a fine layer of brass on areas of my mill's main column support casting as a decorative precursor to being painted.
> 
> I've only seen one other person do this and he was applying brass to solid steel so I've not idea how it will take to



This is a new technique to me.   In any event all i could see is that pant leg getting wrapped up in the wire brush.   Be careful!


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## Canobi (Jul 2, 2018)

Part #6 is up

In this episode I heat black the column support casting bolts.


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## Canobi (Jul 3, 2018)

> [Q"Wizard69, post: 309801, member: 14419"]This is a new technique to me.   In any event all i could see is that pant leg getting wrapped up in the wire brush.   Be careful!



Yeh, it was a bit sketchy and I too was a little concerned with how close it came a couple times.

I just didn't have enough materials on hand to rig up something to hold it.


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## Davo J (Jul 3, 2018)

Looks like your enjoying the journey, just be careful heating cast iron machine parts as it can warp them.

I have blackened bolts for many years but always use a few litres of old engine oil to dunk the bolt in.


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## Canobi (Jul 11, 2018)

Davo J said:


> Looks like your enjoying the journey, just be careful heating cast iron machine parts as it can warp them.
> 
> I have blackened bolts for many years but always use a few litres of old engine oil to dunk the bolt in.



Hi Davo J

Interesting you should mention warping as that possibility had crossed my mind a few times, as well as cracking. The casting I heated has a long split down the back for clamping purposes, so I took an educated guess that it would act as a stress relief while it was flexing during heat up and cool down. 

I'll give the bolt dipped in engine oil a try, the layered technique was the way I was shown many many moons ago when I ventured to turn my hand to a bit of smithing in my teens.


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## Canobi (Jul 11, 2018)

Hey guys 

Being as I haven't been doing anything new or overly intersting of late, I've not posted as I didn't want to bore you all with me repeating tasks of heat blacking the rest of the bolts, followed by short bouts of simple turning to make brass washers. I've have nearly finished all the levers, which again is more of the same as well, though I hit a snag with my alternating colour scheme as the belt tensioner and course feed levers have ended up needing brass knobs, not black ones and I've not been able to find a good match for the existing knobs. I did however find a shop made ball turner on eBay that looks well crafted, so I'm going to have a crack at making them in the near future.

So now that most of the cosmetic work is done, I've started to re-essemble her again and was surprised at how little there is left to do:










I still need to make yet another pair of brass washers for the small motor mount casting bolts, I put them in place simply to stop me losing them:





I got bored of making straightforward washers and made a fancy recessed one for fine feed essembly retention bolt, though I had to modify it a a little by turning a .5mm deep boss on the mating face to stop it binding with the casting:


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## Davo J (Jul 11, 2018)

Those pictures are coming up with a credit though them for me at least


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## Canobi (Jul 12, 2018)

Not sure what's going on as I can't get them to show up for me either. I can see them in the editor but not once its posted.


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## 99Norton (Jul 12, 2018)

Canobi said:


> Part5 is now up.
> 
> In this episode in try an experimental technique to put a fine layer of brass on areas of my mill's main column support casting as a decorative precursor to being painted.
> 
> I've only seen one other person do this and he was applying brass to solid steel so I've not idea how it will take to cast iron..



Hi, I use a fine Brass wheel on a polisher to clean up many small items including old tools and the act of buffing leaves a deposit of Brass on the surface. Used very lightly this is the best wheel for Chrome as well.  Cast Iron having a porous outer layer I find treating with a Tannin based converter before oiling or painting gives a great seal and key. Soaking in Molasses/water at 1:40 then a power wash really works well for anything that has rust.


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## bazmak (Jul 12, 2018)

I can see them now,look good especially the brassing Keep em coming


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## Canobi (Nov 20, 2018)

Hi guys 

Had to take time out from the restoration to learn welding in order to make a workshop press so I could install the new quill bearings (what we do for our hobbies eh).

Filming myself welding proved problematic for my phone, so I haven't got much in the way of footage of the press build but it's now up and running and has been tested and passed for soundness so I'm about to install said bearings in a bit:


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## DJP (Nov 20, 2018)

I didn't think that those bottle jacks would work upside down. I know they are OK horizontally with the pump in the low position. You may not get a full stroke out of the ram if the pump is starved for oil. I guess that you can always invert the entire press if it's a problem.

Welders are one of the tools that allows you to make more tools. It's a skill worth having, for sure. Congrats.


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## Canobi (Nov 20, 2018)

It's hard to tell in the pic but I totally filled the jack with oil and I've added a reservoir with extra for the ram travel so I get full stroke.

For those that are interested, the build process can be found here:

http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/nils-skills-uber-challenge-compact-workshop-press-69622


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## Canobi (Nov 25, 2018)




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## Canobi (Dec 5, 2018)

Hi guys 

Having pressed the races into the quill, I gave the bearings a bath in some white spirits to remove the shipping grease:





I then made some calculations for bearing grease quantity, in my case .2oz per bearing:






It was after packing them and getting near to fully assembling it that I noticed a major issue. It seems I overlooked a critical dimension when choosing the taper roller bearings. While the outer races are a perfect match depth wise, the inner races aren't and both protrude enough that I can't fit the second rear spindle nut to lock off the preload nut and they also prevents the brass bearing cover from doing it's job:









A few solutions came to mind after some ponderings and while they would work, I'd rather not have to modify the quill or it's components. Paradoxlocally, I'd prefer to stick to taper roller bearings after seeing the condition the old deep grooves were in and I found myself in a catch 22 situation for a little while.

That was until a DW Mk1 quill came up for auction on ebay a few days ago, I rarely do auction bidding but on occasion, it can pay off. What got my attention is that the quill is only half finished, the outside has been ground and the rack has been cut (luckily, the two jobs I can't do myself) but it still requires the keyway and bearing seats to be machined.

I do wonder sometimes, a more perfect solution to my predicament couldn't have presented itself if it had tried, it was the only item the seller had for sale and I was the only bidder, I even waited till the last 10 seconds to confirm my bid, just to be sure but in this case however, I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth and just call it fate.

The new quill should arrive in the next couple days so I'll be back again with more soon...


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## goldstar31 (Dec 5, 2018)

Years ago I made the original Westbury mill/drill- but no matter.

Perhaps you could inform me if  Arnold Throp's business as Dore Engineering and Ivan Law's are in existence again, please?

I have Law's Rotary Table and Throp's Kennet  tool and cutter grinder both of which could do with 'a fettle'
My Quorn Mk1 came from the same source but it has withstood the ravages of time better.

Again, I'm quizzical about your bearing press- with the need to invert the hydraulic jack---- di dah, di dah!

I've been dumped with my son's Lotus Elise Special Edition which needs its front and rear  wishbones restoring to 100%

Son realises that I got a City and Guilds in Motor Vehicle Restoration- and whilst I am too old to do it, I can still give chapter and verse.

Thanks

Norman


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## Canobi (Dec 5, 2018)

As far as I know, Arnald and Ivan haven't traded for some time, my guess is that the quill I got has been kicking around a workshop or somones loft for a fair while and finally made it's way to me.

Turning the bottle jack upside down means that there is no need for a ram guide that spans the width of the press, less materials needed (or at least cheaper).


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## Canobi (Dec 14, 2018)

Hi guys


Well, thankfully the new quill arrived in good form. I am however facing another interesting challenge as I found that it was too big for my lathe's fixed steady.

Line boring sprang to mind but the only only round stock I have that's suitable was tagged for a required future tool project a few days ago.

I also considered making an expanding mandrel and an extended live centre point that would allow room for the boring bar but found the bore in the casting was off centre by a fair bit, so that idea went out the window.

I'll be honest, I'm not keen on the amount of stick out there is but without any alternative to fall back on, I'm going to have to risk it for a biscuit.

Given the circumstances, I felt using the 4 jaw would provide a better grip and it also allowed me to dial it to within a few microns, so at least I know the bearing seats will be on centre if all goes well:





It'll be light cuts all the way, so it's going to take a fair bit of time to finish both sides, wish me luck.....


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## Dubi (Dec 15, 2018)

That looks a little bit hairy. What is the diameter and material? Good luck.


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## DJP (Dec 15, 2018)

Find a a machine shop with a bigger lathe and proper steady rest. There is a reason that lathes come in different sizes. The risk you are taking is not worth it, in my opinion.


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## dazz (Dec 15, 2018)

Hi
With that setup, failure is the only option.  There is no way you will hit a bearing tolerance because of the amount of flex.
If you are committed to a DIY solution, make a steady rest.   Easy to fabricate with sheet metal or box section tube.

The other option is to see if you can find bearings that are not so wide.

Dazz


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## deverett (Dec 16, 2018)

Could you not make a temporary steady?  If nothing else is available, you could use a piece of wood bored on the lathe to accept the job.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## goldstar31 (Dec 16, 2018)

I recall that Neil Hemingway of Hemingwaykits and L.Sparey of the numerous models still being built and his 'The Amateurs Lathe' suggested the possibility of wood

Incidentally, I was looking for something else  in what is laughing called my library and found that there is a modification suggested for the Dore Westbury mill/drill quill.

Later I got rid of my Pools Major lathe - and never pursued the recommendation

As a sort of postscript, I had a look again at Arnold Throp's   Vertical Milling in the Home Workshop in the hope of finding  what I believe was Model Engineering Services  Hexagonal shaped Fixed steady( for the Myford). Instead I found  the photo of  the set up of cutting the Quill being held in vee blocks supported by three face angle plate and done on what looks like a Dore Westbury mill.

So much for me wanting to modify his  or MES's Kennet tool and cutter grinder which really could do with bringing into the 21st Century.

Keep me posted

Norman


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## Canobi (Dec 17, 2018)

Hi again folks 


Well, I'm in agreement with everyone who has shown concern and I'm not going to attempt to work on the quill myself as I was just too dodged out by such a sketchy setup as well.

Instead, I've contacted another machinist with a bigger lathe and he has initially agreed to help out with it, though I'm still in talks with him but a solution looks to be forthcoming at least.


Meantime, I thought I'd see about fabricobbling a bigger fixed steady out of stuff I have laying about my workshop but given a lack of raw material variety turn to, I'm playing the repurposing game, though in all honesty, its one of my favourites any way.


To that end, I hoiked off one of the flange mounts from a damaged reduction gearbox. I chose the flang mount as it has some interesting features I should be able to make use of, once I've opened up the bore, which handily is only a little smaller than the quill itself.

Once I got the thing off, I mounted it to my faceplate and started boring it out:


















Having some larger diameter round stock in my collection, I made the bore big enough to take those as well and I ended up removing the webbing completely from between all four protrusions.

Afterwhich I faced it to give two referance surfaces and removed it from the faceplate:





I then made use of the flange mount holes in each of the four protrusions by tapping them as it meant it could be firmly affixed the other way round, without risk of warping the workpiece as there was a fair gap between the holes I'd used previously and the faceplate:









With that job done, I set it up to fly cut the flanges flat spot on it's outside edge as it will give me a way to mount it at 90° to the bed:









Thats as far as I've got so far, it was late by the time I finished it and I'm still working out some of the details as I'm limited by a short swing cross slide and nonfunctional mill but I did at least find a piece of square that would be a suitable foot to mount the thing to the ways.

Anyhoo, have a great Christmas one and all and I'll see y'all round.

Until then, stay safe, stay happy, and keep those chips flyin'  (=[ >*


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## bazmak (Dec 17, 2018)

Nice informative post.Looking forward to seeing the finished steady


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