# Mini Flycutter



## rake60 (Jul 8, 2007)

Here's a little flycutter I made for the mini-milling machine.





It cost me less than $2 to make and cuts great!


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## tattoomike68 (Jul 8, 2007)

I like it, I need one like that with a 3/8" shank for my endmill holder. I dont have cash for collets so the endmill holder is all I have.

My home shop does not have many tools in the small sizes a model builder would use, I need to make them.


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## rake60 (Jul 8, 2007)

In my mini mill I use a 1/2" chuck for end mills.
OK I had 3 of them and found the one that had the least run-out.
.0005 to be exact.  Even at that if I try to treat it like a bigger machine than it is, the end mill will suck out.  When were working small we have to remember what were working with.  .040" is a rough cut.
I'd get fired at work with that attitude, but this is a hobby.
No production schedules to meet, and I'm one hell of an easy inspector to please in my basement!


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## tattoomike68 (Jul 8, 2007)

The mill head on my smithy is light duty at best so I take smaller bites too.

I was just out in my shop and found some peices of tool steel, 3/16" and 1/4" 

For stock to make the cutter All I have is some 15/16 hex and some 1" 1018.

I would go outside and get to cutting right now but its 88F at 9:00 pm.


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## rake60 (Jul 9, 2007)

Mine was made from 1" 1018 cold roll steel.
I used this print to make it.





It takes 1/4" tool steel or Braz-on tools.
The .500 +-.001 would only be critical if you were going to use it in an
endmill holder.  If you'd be using it in a chuck or collet that diameter isn't
that big a deal.


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## 1Kenny (Jul 9, 2007)

Thank you for showing the fly cutter and print Rake.


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## tattoomike68 (Jul 10, 2007)

1Kenny said:
			
		

> Thank you for showing the fly cutter and print Rake.



Amen to that.

 I think Im going out to get started right now.


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## rake60 (Jul 10, 2007)

I'm working on a slighty smaller version.
A boring head.....
We'll see how that comes out.


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## tattoomike68 (Jul 11, 2007)

rake60 said:
			
		

> I'm working on a slighty smaller version.
> A boring head.....
> We'll see how that comes out.



I would like to make that my next tool. Even make my own #2 morris taper shank for it. My mill head and lathe tailstock is a MT#2.

I plan to go out tonight and try to finnish the flycutter, its just so hot here its not funny at all. its 101F now.

I have a basement but dont feel like making my shop there and packing stuff down stairs into the dark. It would be a nice 70F all year round though.


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## tattoomike68 (Jul 12, 2007)

Ok I have some set up pictures and finnished milling picks but I still need to drill and tap the holes.

Its 81F at 10:52pm and its worth going into the heat to make a new tool. I was 106F today.

boy the old smithy mill head round colum is touchy, it took tons more time then it would at a job but it was fun and made me slow down and have some fun again. nothing like work. its looking good.

This cutter will be so much better than a shank welded on to HSS its not funny.Normaly If I needed a special tool it was done just like that but this ones machined.

I funny little note... I dont have an air compresser, I used a soda straw to blow the swarf out if the cut. Now thats a cheap deal.  :lol:

Im back out to the shop to see If I can get-er done.  :wink:


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## tattoomike68 (Jul 12, 2007)

I got it done, thanks rick. That was a fun project.


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## rake60 (Jul 13, 2007)

Looks Great!


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## tattoomike68 (Jul 13, 2007)

It works just fine, It was a much needed tool to have. It will make a nice big flat otherwise all I have are some endmills 1/2" max.

My history as a job shop machinist has been more towards building large parts.

I have to clean up my shop to build little stuff so if I drop a part I can find it again.   

Anyway this little project has sparked my interest again and has me spending more time in the shop and less time on my butt in front of the computer.

thanks again.


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## Bogstandard (Jul 18, 2007)

Can you gentlemen please tell me how much material you remove with your flycutter in one pass, first on steel then non ferrous.
I will let you know why when I get a bit of feedback.

John


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## tattoomike68 (Jul 18, 2007)

Bogstandard said:
			
		

> Can you gentlemen please tell me how much material you remove with your flycutter in one pass, first on steel then non ferrous.
> I will let you know why when I get a bit of feedback.
> 
> John



Being that my smithy has a round column I have to take kind of light cuts.

I have not used it enough to know what it can do. I wish I could be of more help. All I have done with it is some light finnish passes on aluminum so far.


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## rake60 (Jul 18, 2007)

A flycutter isn't really a roughing tool.
My mini mill is limited by it's nylon gear drive.   I will be replacing that
with a belt drive as soon as it will fit into the hobby budget. 
As it is,  I can take .060" on aluminum with it spinning 600RPM
On mild steel .015" is a heavy cut with a tool steel bit.  
I've never ground a brazed carbide bit to try on steel but it should do 
better.   We'll try that after the plastic gears are out of there.


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## 1Kenny (Jul 19, 2007)

Mike,

That looks great, it should be good for years.


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