# Building of TINY INLINE 4 in Brazil



## e.picler

Hello People!
I`m new here and on the HMEM.
After some research on the web I found some very nice projects (V8 from Steve Huck, Tiny Inline 4 from Kelly, The Peewee from Dirk, Jerry Howell V4, 4 Cyl. Horz. Opposed from Dale Detrich and another V8 from Coles Power Models).
I decided too buy all them. After some study I decided as my first IC Engine building project the TINY INLINE 4. First I though it would be easier but the parts are so small that is being a real challenge. "I will not give up."
Bollow is the first pictures:
*Sorry for the English writing mistakes*.
Part of Raw Material






Preparing the stock for the block









Start of botton machining




Drilling the Camshaft Tunel




The Center Main Bearings Caps. I machined the material to its lenght than I sectioned using Hand saw.




Machining the caps to its thickness




Drilling the screw holes on the caps




Ready for starting digging the botton 





MORE PHOTOS IS COMMING. See you soon guys.


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## stevehuckss396

Looks good E! Keep the photo's coming!!


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## Dave G

I will be watching this one with great interest. Very nice E, Dave


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## e.picler

As I told, here are some more pictures.
The oil pan




As a lot of material must be removed to provide the pan, I decided to drill sevral holes. It showed to be very productivy.




Almost finished








Here is the Block, Oil Pan and Valve Cover pre-machined




Now it is time for making some holes on the block




You can see the Pushrod, Cylinder and head bolt holes




Digging the botton of the block












I decided to back to the Valve cover and do some more material removing so, I changed the vise to a angle adjustable
and used a electronic angle measuring device to set it to 70 degrees




The Valve Cover fixed on the vise




Using a ball end mill I made the spark plug pockets









I think I will go back to the block and do some more work. Wait more PICTURES. 
*What you guys think, is that too much pictures?*


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## e.picler

Thanks Steve and Dave.
If you have any comments that would help me, feel free to do so. Maybe late today I will post more pictures of what I've done on the block (the crankshaft jornals drilled and reamed.
Hey Steve this is a trainning for your engine project.

TKS,
Edimilson


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## kuhncw

Hi Edimilson,

You've got a good start on Kelly's little 4 cylinder and I am enjoying your photos. 

What part of Brasil are you located in? 

Regards,

Chuck
IL USA


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## e.picler

Hi Chuck!
Thanks for your comments.
I'm at the South of Brazil State of Paraná and the City is Curitiba.
Do you know Brazil?

Edi


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## Blue_Rock

Hi Edi, great project... keep those photos coming


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## crankshafter

Hi EDi
Good to see other have start on the building of the Tiny.
I started on the build before Christmas. 

BTW nice work.

CS


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## bearcar1

One can never post up too many pictures and be reprimanded for doing so. Pictures tell stories that words do not always reflect. E, keep up the good work and we will all be watching with anticipation. (at least I will be)

BC1
Jim


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## agmachado

Hi Edi,

Very nice your project... the pictures are fantastic and as I like!

Soon I will begin my project too... very cool see this hobby here in Brazil... we need to promote it and organize an exhibition... maybe in some machining or mechanical fair!

Who wants to come to Brazil to prestige or display their work? 

Edi... th_wwp always!

Cheers,

Alexandre


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## kuhncw

Hi Edi,

In the late 1980's and early 1990's I was lucky enough to get to travel to Brasil on business. These were visits to piston and ring suppliers, mostly in the Sao Paulo area. The companies were then Metal Leve, CoFap, and Mahle. I always enjoyed the trips. Great people to work with and great food!

Good luck with the little 4 banger. Kelly got some great sound out of that little engine.

Regards,

Chuck


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## e.picler

Hello everybody.
By request, more pictures bellow.
.
Drilling the crankshaft journals




Reaming operation




The block with Crankshaft and Camshaft journals




Machining the rest of the block




















I first used a 12mm end mill then I finished the corners with a 6mm end mill




The block still missing some work. (breathing holes, water jackets holes etc.)








Here is all the job done so far





*Kelly as you can see I decided to make the oil pan in one piece*


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## kcmillin

Hi Edi,

I love the pictures, keep 'em coming! 

I do like the oil pan you made, it looks great!

I will be watching for sure.

Kel


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## e.picler

Hi Kel, thanks for the nice words.
I was thinking to make the crankshaft from a round blank prepared on the lathe then machine the connecting rods journal on the milling machine using a rotary table. Is there any desadvantage doing that?
Do to a missaligment of the crankshaft journals I need to do that againg increasing the diameter from 8,0mm to 8.5 or even 9.0mm do you see any problems on that? Will it afect any other part of the project?
Thanks
Edi


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## kcmillin

Hi Edi,

The method you describe for making the crankshaft sounds a little hairy. (But that's just me) It works fine for the camshaft, but the crankshaft journals will need to be vary concentric, with a smooth finish. 

I don't see a problem with making the main journals larger in the block, as long as they don't interfere with the journal cap screws. You can leave the crankshaft mains the same but you will have to make the bushings outside diameter larger.

Kel


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## Lesmo

Hi Edi

You have made a flying start on this project, and plenty of pictures too, which we all like. As the man said, A picture is worth a thousand words cant have too many in my opinion. Keep up the good work, I will be watching all the way. Good luck with the crank

Les.


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## e.picler

Hello Guys! 
I'm here again. Not much activities this last week. I purchased some tools for the lathe.
Bellow are the pictures of the new tools

















Now some more pictures of work
Reaming the tappet guide holes 








Tapping the head holes









 I'm wating some more tools to continue the work on the block (head boring, small bore gage and some reamers)

See you guys until next post
Edi


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## kutzdibutz

Excellent stuff there Edi! I'll be watching for sure!

 :bow:

Cheers, Karsten


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## e.picler

Hello everybody.
I got able to do some more work done this week. Still on the block.
As I received the boring head I ordered few weeks ago, I was able to finished the liners holes and water jackets. The tool showed to be very precise holding the dimensions and easy to adjust. Photos ahead!




Counterbore operation









Next operation was the water jackets.
I tried to do it on the lathe, however I did not feel safe with the setup, so I had to use the traditional dividing table and a grooving mill.





















Here is where I'm so far.









No internal parts done so far. The head still need all the holes.

Thanks.
Edi


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## ShedBoy

Looking good  That lathe set up looked very hairy, looks like the machine would have started bouncing.

Brock


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## e.picler

Thanks Brock.
Yes I agree with you that reveled to be very unappropriated, you are also right about the lathe bouncing.
I thought it would be easier for machining that on the rotary table. I spend a couple of hours before getting to that setup because I had to change the lathe chuck and when I got the 4 independent jaw I found that it had different attachment holes (4) and the lathe is 3 holes so, I had to rework it.










Thanks,
Edi


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## miner49r

Great work Edi. I never thought of grabbing work with a four jaw like that. (making mental note)
Alan


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## e.picler

Hello  everybody!
I apologize for not posting for a long time. I was deeply envolved in installing the CNC kit on my milling machine.
After the installaton I had to learn G code programing. I purchased a DVD training curse on G code. I did some exercise programming manually and using pieces of MDF material to test my programming skills.
Later on I meet a teacher for CNC programming and he told me about the MASTERCAM Software. Then again I purchased another DVD teaching how to use the Mastercam software which contains several exercises. This software is really something. I started programing the parts of the Tiny inline four engine using this Software.
I will be posting this week photos and details of my progress building the TI4 with the help of the CNC on the milling machine.

Thanks,


Edimilson


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## stevehuckss396

Looks great Mr. Picler! Glad to see you decided to share your progress with us.


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## hacklordsniper

Can i ask what mill you use, it seems its Optimum?


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## e.picler

hacklordsniper said:


> Can i ask what mill you use, it seems its Optimum?


 
Hello Hacklordsniper!
Yws it is Optimum machine. I purchased two machine from them last year, one D180 Vario Lathe and one BF20 Milling Machine with some acessories.
This year I purchased the CNC kit for the milling machine.
Do you need some specific information?

Thanks,
Edimilson


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## e.picler

This post was edited.

Edimilson


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## e.picler

Before I show you my adventure with the CNC kit, I want to show you the machining of the timing cover without the use of CNC help.
Machining the botton side gears pockets.

















Shaping the top side.









Rounding the corners.













On the next post I will show the finishing of the top.
See you.
Thanks.


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## kvom

My CNC training was on Mastercam at school, but it's expensive for a home shop.  Like Steve Hucks, I've been using Cambam.

The build is going very nicely.


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## hacklordsniper

e.picler said:


> Hello Hacklordsniper!
> Yws it is Optimum machine. I purchased two machine from them last year, one D180 Vario Lathe and one BF20 Milling Machine with some acessories.
> This year I purchased the CNC kit for the milling machine.
> Do you need some specific information?
> 
> Thanks,
> Edimilson



Hello, we have identical machines. Im quite happy with my mill BF20L but quite unhappy with the D180 Vario as it came with quite many manufacturing defects. How happy are you with yours?


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## e.picler

hacklordsniper said:


> Hello, we have identical machines. Im quite happy with my mill BF20L but quite unhappy with the D180 Vario as it came with quite many manufacturing defects. How happy are you with yours?


 
Hi,
I have the avaluation as you, happy with the BF20 and not so happy with the D180 it also came with some defects and the cross travel movement have too much lash. As Optimum does not CNC kit for the D180, I`m considering to by the ball screws and adapt to it.

Thanks,
Edimilson


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## hacklordsniper

Thank you.

As i remember Optimum offers a CNC kit for D180 but they are quite expensive. Im selling my D180 and will buy D280 x 700 DC Vario, hoping its better build


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## e.picler

Hello!
As I told you before I will start posting my progress building the TI4 using the CNC help.
The first part I selected was the timing cover. Yes it seems a quite complex part for the first experince with the CNC technology. The reason for that is that being that complex it envolved many different toolpaths what yould be a real test for my skills on CNC. Also I decided that because I had a help of a CNC programing teacher who has good knowlege about Mastercam. 
I had to machine 2 parts because accidentally a touched the mouse pad of the computer and it caused a tool crasch damaging the almost finished part.

Here is the Timing Cover machined after the installation of a CNC kit on a originally conventional milling machine.

Preparing the stock material.









Machining the top of the part.





Rounding the top profile. It was done using a 3mm round end mill.









Next post I will show the machining of the botton side.
See you.
Edimilson


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## e.picler

Sorry I don't know what I did wrong. The photos size got too small. I will post it again.

TKS,
Edimilson​


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## e.picler

Hello  guys,
It is now the time of the btton side of the timing cover.

Gettingthe center of crankshaft hole as reference.




Drilling the initial holes.




Milling the holes using the circle mill pathwork. I used a 6mm flat end mill.








Some more pictures of the top.








Drilling the distributor hole.




As I did not had the proper reamer diameter I used a Boring Head to finish the hole.




Taping the hole of the hold down clamp.




Finished part.













Next post I will show the conecting rods.
Thanks,

Edimilson


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## e.picler

Hello everybody! I`m here again to show youhow I did the tiny connecting rods.

Here I`m preparing the rod caps.











Preparing the rod body, taping the holes for the caps.






Now machining to the thickness.






Drilling the center holes.






Circle milling the bottom holes.












Cutting apart the blanks.






Machining the fixture to hold down theblanks.
















Tapping the hole where the blank will behold.











The first blank read to have the contourmachined.






First contour machined. I did it in onepass for the depth and left 0.1mm as finish pass for the contour.






First connecting rod finished.












The first parts machined using the CNC.







That`s it for now. Next parts I will showis the cylinders liners, Rocker arms and the fan.

Thanks,

Edi


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## e.picler

Hello. As I told you on the last post now I want to show you the machining of the Cylinder Liners, ROcker Arms and the Fan.

Turning the Cylinder Liners.

















Milling the the Rocker Arms. It was very nice to see the machining the contour of   the part.













Here is a small video of the CNC operation.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=xEHYNunwBF4

After cutting the parts apart, I milled the back to the final thickness.









To machine the fan, I built a fixture with 6 taped holes to hold down the blank as shown on the picture bellow.





The blank bolted to the fixture. As you can see I planned to use the central hole to hold the fan after the contour is completely machined. At this point the center hole is already reamed to the final diam.













The hole you see on the left blade is the result of a CNC misoperation. I forgot to zero (reference) the toll. I machined a new one.





The countour completely machined.





Here the fan blades was angled and is finished. Ready to go to engine.





As the milling machine was all set up for milling the fan, I decided to use this same set up to machine the Bracket Blank (support of the water pump).
The procedure was the same as the fan.

The fixture with the blank bolted to it.





Contour and hole completed.













Bended part.





This is it. I hope you liked.

See you next post. The Water Pump.

TKS,
Edi


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## e.picler

When I purchased the CNC kit for the milling machine I included a step motor and control card for the 4th axis. I`m now trying to make it work. I plan to machine the cam and crankshaft on the milling machine using the rotary table on vertical position. I think that doing this way will reduce the risk of warping the blank.
Recently I saw a video on youtube a guy machining a crankshaft for a 6 cylinder box model engine It seems to work very well. I will start my experience with the 4th axis testing on machining some gears for the Tiny in line engine.

See you.

Edi


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## agmachado

Hi Edi...

Very nice your progress... Is great see this type of work here, in Brazil !

I will continue to watching your progress!

Cheers,

Alexandre


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## e.picler

Hello Alexandre!
Thanks for the nice words. I`m still learning this, compared to what I have seen in this forum its very small things.
What about you? Last time we have talked you were planning to buy some equipments such as Shirline milling machine. Did you get them?

TKS,
Edi


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## kcmillin

Very nice work Edi! 

Your brass sheet work is top notch, and a fine job with the CNC.

Keep up the good work!

Kel


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## e.picler

Hello feliow.
I`m here today to share with you all my success with my Rotary Table after I installed the CNC Kit.
I machined the Water Pump gears manually. I found it being a boring operation so I decided to install the CNC kit that was laying down on the shelf of my junk gabinet. 
I machined the Pump gears again on the CNC. As I still don`t know how to program the 4th axis on the Mastercam, I wrote the program manually.
I got so happy because it worked fine. As soon I download the pictures from  the photograph machine, I will post them as well as small video.

Regards

Edi


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## e.picler

Hi everybody!
I`m here again to post how much I was able to progress on the construction of the TI4. I`m getting used with the CNC and being able to advance faster thje before.
This time I machined the Water Pump Cover, Rocker Arms, Distributor Cap and small parts

Machining the Pump Cover.










Pump body.













Machining the contour









Drilling the holes





Rocker Arms













With the help of my son Thiago (he generated the G code on Mastercam) we machined the Distributor Cap. We use Nylon just as trainning, nylon is not the proper material for that. Later on we made it again using Acetal.

















Cutting the groove for the roller on the Rocker Arms





Machining the Distributor Cap, now with the right material (Acetal)













Facing the botton to remove the extra holding material 









Milling the base isolator









I used the Dist. Cap as a collet to turn the inside diam. of the isolator









Milling the Rotor slot for the contact









The parts finished





See you next post. All of have a great holliday. Marry Cristmas

Edi


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## AussieJimG

That's coming along well Edi, you are lucky to have Thiago by your side

Jim


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## Maxine

Wow that's a lot of progress!  The parts look great.  Nice job. 

Is Mastercam pretty easy to learn and use?

Merry Christmas!


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## e.picler

Maxine said:


> Wow that's a lot of progress!  The parts look great.  Nice job.
> 
> Is Mastercam pretty easy to learn and use?
> 
> Merry Christmas!



Hi Maxine!
I found the Mastercam very easy to learn and use.
I did not have any experience with CNC before and I`m very happy to be able to  program the G code and see it running on the machine. First I`ve learned the basics of CNC and wrote some programs manually.
Mastercam is Straightforward you simply draw the part and then select the operation (toolpath) you want to do and select where you want to machine by selecting the line on the drawing.
You can find many tutorials and on line courses on the internet.

Merry Christmas

Edi


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## e.picler

Hi all!
This is my last post of the year. Today I decided to make the bevel gears. I did it out of steel as the project calls for. I have seen some doing this same engine but they did the same gears out of brass.

Here are the pictures.

Turning the blank.













A small video cutting the teeth
http://youtu.be/v-w5KBLbJqs

Dividing table and head set up for the teeth cutting.









Finished gears.













That`s it for this year.
Have all a Marry Christmas and a very happy new year.

Edi


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## AussieJimG

I am following your work with much pleasure

Jim


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## e.picler

Hello all!
I hope 2013 year started well for everybody.

I did some more work on the litlle beast.
I decided to finish some parts that were missing some small work.

Here I`m rounding the top corners of the Rocker Tower.
I used a parallel to position the part on the vise. I wrote a small G code to that operation. It worked very well.









Here you can see the towers mounted on the head









I also machined the Fly Wheel





For a long time I was willing to finish the had, but for some reason I was postponing that, maybe because the runners appeared to be litlle complicated. Today I found courage and finished (almost). Still missing the valve seats.

Here is the set up of the angles 









Spark Plug Holes
Positioning the tip of the center drill on the reference previously done when thew head was flat on the vise for the other holes.









Now with the 7 degree angle on the other side





For these Spark Plug holes I strictly followed the Kelly instructions.
I flipped over the head and used a 3mm pin to align the hole for the top drilling.





Here you can see the spot faced area for spark plug (10mm end mill). Also tapping 10-40. The plans calls for 10-32 but I try to used a stok spark plug in case the ones I will make don`t work.









Here is the head with the spark plugs

















Now it is time for the intake runners









Then the exaust runners





Sopt facing with 2.5mm end mill before drilling




Now on opposite angle





Finished head. Ready for the valve seats.

















Here I`m preparing the stok material for the Pushrod Cover





Well folks that is it for today. I hope you like this progressing update.

Cheers,

Edi


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## metalmad

Top Job Edi
really looking the part now!
I will do my Siamese intake ports soon if I can get up enough courage :hDe:
Pete


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## vcutajar

Beautifull work Edi. Still following along.

Vince


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## AussieJimG

That is coming along well Edi, and the photos are great - very clear and easy to see what you have done

Jim


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## e.picler

Hi Pete, Jim and Vince!
Thak you very much for your very kind words about my work. I`m still new on this field. A lot to learn from you guys.
It takes long from one post to the next because I don`t have much time to work  on this building. I woul like to post more frequentely and also I`m very ansious to see it running.

Cheers,

Edi


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## Art K

Hi Edi,
I'm really impressed by the distributor cap, I would have bought one. Your engine is looking very good.
Art


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## kcmillin

Hello Edi,

Great work on those parts!  I am glad to hear you were able to follow my instructions in regards to the spark plug hole.

I was looking at the bevel gears you made, something seems a little off. The sides of the gear teeth should be parallel and the valley should be triangular, the ones in the picture show triangular shaped teeth and parallel velleys.

 I started a thread awhile back on the subject of cutting bevel gears with involute gear cutters. 

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f26/bevel-gear-cutting-involute-cutters-9699/

In this thread on post 14, GailInNM explains that each tooth actually requires three passes of the cutter for each tooth. Each pass the cutter at a slightly different height and the tooth advanced or retarded a certain amount. The formulas are all posted in the thread.

Keep up the great work!

Kelly


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## e.picler

Hello all!
I`m here again to show you my progress on the Tiny inline 4.
This time I dedicated my time to the distributor.

The picture bellow shows the body on the turning operation.







In order to hold the body on the milling vise for profiling the top where the cap goes, I made a kind of collet. I turned a washer with the ID the same dimension as the small Diam. of the body than cut it in two pieces.
You can see how it worked on the photo bellow.




Here the body is ready for the milling operation




milling the contour for the cap. Sorry it is out of focus




Drilling tho holes for the magnet bracket




Here you can see the distributor clamp. I did that with the help of CNC.




Here what you see is a arbor I turned for a small lathe chuck I purchased in Austria (Proxxon brand) during a trip with the family.
I decided to buy that because it is very useful for very small jobs. In spite of my lathe being small, it not good enough for such small works.
The store I purchased it is quite unique. I found it by chance waking down the street in direction to the metro station. I found a lot of very very intersting things there that hobbists like us would spend a fortune. Besides the chuck also purchased small drill in 0.1mm increments, small taps and dies 1.0mm, 1.4mm. I fell in love with a small rotary table but was too heavy for the luggage.







Here is the little baby installed on the lathe. It is OD. 64mm and the jaws are very precise.







This picture shows the the preparation odf the hall sensor strap. I used the same process that Kelly used on his engine. Turned a kind of cap to provide the correct OD/ID than moved to the mill on the ratary table to cut it off.







Here the blank is alrerady on the rotary table, drilling the holes for the small screws 50 degrees from each other.




Now cutting it off with a 3mm end mill










Finished part




It now the turn of the Magnet Bracket.
This part turned to be a huge headake for me. The project called for aluminum material, however the supplier of the CDI recommended to make it out of non metalic material. So I decided to use samll pieces of Corian I had over the bench. Kell recommended Delrin. After hour of machining work on the very final operation it suddenly broke (I found this material is good isolator but also very fragil). I started all over again using this time DELRIN!!!!!! Worked very nice.

Preparing the blank








[URL=http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/epicler/media/2013-05-05%20Distributor/DSCN2276_zpsb89d865f.jpg.html]

Here is where it broke:wall:
[URL=http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/epicler/media/2013-05-05%20Distributor/DSCN2284_zpsa2415c66.jpg.html]
	


The Cap contacts




A few parts of the distributor







Here I`m making the Magnet Bracket ot of DELRIN!!!!:fan:







More view of the dist. parts




Finally the great Distributor finished




A view of how the little beast is looking like so far. I also have made several intarnal parts that is not shown on this shot.




Well, I can tell you guys, the distributor  was really a big challenge for me. The parts are so small and precise, I had to make two or three parts each component. But that is OK. I got a lot of experience.

Thank you Kelly for your imputs and hints.

I will need to remake the small mitter gears for the distributor/camshaft. I did not correct the profile of the theeth.
Kelly sent me a link of a thread here talking about how to do that.

That`s it for today.

Edi


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## stevehuckss396

Looking real good Edi!!


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## enfieldbullet

Edi,

nice work!

i'm in Brazil as well. nice to see more people with similar interests.


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## southlib

Hello Edi, great work you have there. I`m also from Brazil (Sampa). Canyou tell me where did you buy the metal blocks? They seem to be hard to find


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## enfieldbullet

southlib said:


> Hello Edi, great work you have there. I`m also from Brazil (Sampa). Canyou tell me where did you buy the metal blocks? They seem to be hard to find



if you don't need a specific measure i suggest the scrapyard.

i'm very near you, (São José dos Campos), and if you really can't find them i can pick them up for you and then we can figure transportation/mail

i think the price here is R$10,00/kg for aluminum


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## Harold Lee

e.picler said:


> Hi Chuck!
> Thanks for your comments.
> I'm at the South of Brazil State of Paraná and the City is Curitiba.
> Do you know Brazil?
> 
> Edi



Edi

I have been to Curitiba a number of times. It is a beautiful city and I have friends that live there. Before I retired in 2006, HSBC was one of my clients. My favorite place to visit there was the Botanical Gardens. Keep up the good work on your engine. I will be following your progress.

Harold


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## metalmad

Looking real good Edi
Pete


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## kcmillin

Great job on the distributor Edi!! I am glad to see the delrin worked good for you with the magnet bracket.

Keep up the great work, your parts are coming out top notch.

Kel


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## e.picler

Hello to all!
Thanks for the kind words. I'm still learning based on what I see here. You aways set the bar a step higher for me.

Herold!
I live ver near to Jardim Botânico (Botanical Garden), yes it is a very nice place to visit. Where your friends live here?
Thanks for your interest in following my progress.


Hei Southlib!
Are you building some project? I purchased the materials for my building from a local material supplier. They have a big sort of materials (steel, brass, aluminum, acetal, bronze etc....) in all kinds of shapes and dimensions.
As you are in São Paulo, I pretty sure you have more options to buy materials for your project.
If you need some help during your construction, just let me know.
Good to know more people from Brasil being part of this forum.

Enfieldbullet!
Also good to know that one more from Brasil here.
Are you also building a project. If so let me know.
Also if is anything I can help, just let me know.

Pete! 
I'm also following your construction. Great great job. I1m really impressed, you do every thing by yourself (melting your blanks, building the tools....)
Next pictures, culd you set some thing near to the engine for size reference? I will do the same for my next post. Someone already asked me that but I forgot to do that.

Edi


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## southlib

Hi Edi, i thought the scrapyard would be the first choice. I've seen some places sell bars (barras, tarugos) of aluminium of a alloy you specify. That's nice if you need something specific.

I plan to build a 2 stroke single cylinder, air cooled. I'm thinking whether i should machine everything, or if i could cast some parts.

what kind of milling machine are you using?

thanks


----------



## e.picler

Hi Southlib!
I have a Optimum BF20 milling  machine. I recentely installed an CNC kit on it.
It is working very well. A very good help for complex shape parts. I`m using the Mastercam to generate the G code.
I also have a small lathe from Optimum as well it is D180 X 300.

Edi


----------



## aarggh

The engines coming along beautifully, and the Optimum gear is really great isn't it Edi? They do a good job on them.

cheers, Ian


----------



## e.picler

Hello all!
Some more small progress to share with you all.
This weekend I decided to finish the water pump and the fan assembly.
On the picture below you see the parts and the tools I used. The red stuff on the right is the tube cutter tool and the one on left is the tube bending devise.




I started anealling the brass tube in order to bend it to the specified angle. I used a portable torch as I don't have the oxigen/acetilene equipment. This torch is used by Plumbers to weld cupper pipes,it uses a gas refil can and can reach over 1000 degree Celcius according the information on the packaging.







After bending the tube, I soldered it to the pump support. 
First I checked if it was on the place/angle




Second I checked if the small bearing was OK on the fan hub than removed it for the welding step.




Here is the intake tube and the bearing hub welded to the pump support




On the photo bellow I'm drlling the holes on the fan washer.




After finishing the assembly of the pump (gluing the gears to the shafts with loctite) I decided to test it. It was really a great moment for me. IT WORKED!!!  AT FIRST RUN!!!
I used a small Dremel to make it run.
If you want to see it running, take a look on the youtube video bellow. Here it is running at 2000 RPM
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQC_Rzvltps[/ame]

This time the little pump is running at 5000 RPM.You can see the diference on the flow (much bigger)
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ey_uoiIzzzQ[/ame]

Next you see how the water pump and the fan fited on the engine



















That's it for this time. It is advancing is small pace, but getting there.

Thanks all.

Edi


----------



## stevehuckss396

That is sure looking good Edi!


----------



## e.picler

Hi Steve!
Thanks for your words. My work is nothing compared to what you do.
I leaving the crankshaft and the camshaft for the last. 
Am I afraid of something???? Hehehehe!!!

Edi


----------



## agmachado

Hi Edi!!!

Your progress is very good and fast too... I'm here watching all !!

Cheers,

Alexandre


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Edi,
The engine is coming along nicely. Each completed piece adds to the excitement of the eventual first pop when it's running. 
If I could make a suggestion. These little engines make more heat then you would think. With that said the size of you fan probably won't move much air. Other than the fact of trying to keep it to 'scale' if you want it to provide some cooling affect you'll have to make it bigger. There was some talk in another thread about radiator size, scale versus usefulness and as with other miniature components sometimes they just need to be made to a size that will work. If your outcome is to just run the engine for a couple of minutes then it won't matter but if you want to run it longer you'll need to move more air. 
gbritnell


----------



## Swifty

I think that the "fan" may only be the centre part that the blades fasten on too, it's very thick.

Paul.


----------



## e.picler

Hi George! How are you doing? Thanks for your kind comments.
Yes for sure you can make suggestions. Thanks for your tip on the cooling matter of my small 4 cylinders baby.
I think you are right on your point, however this  is not my original project (Kelly project) and he already built it and tested it running in different conditions so I`m assuming the cooling system is designed accordingly, in fact I never asked him how long this engine got non stop running without overheating. I will ask him.
Anyway thank you very much for your comments. Comming from you it sure has its value.

Paul!
I think you may be right. When I saw it installed on the block, the first thing come up on my mind was if it was not too thick. I will test that and see what hapens.

Thank you guys.

Edi


----------



## MCRIPPPer

really cool project! i cant wait for more pictures of your build.


----------



## e.picler

hello to all!
MCRIPPPer thanks for your interest on my building.

Here are some more pictures.
This time I turned the Tappets and  *tried* to make the Valve Keeper.
The photo bellow shows the countersinking operation as I already turned a shaft to 4mm diameter. I used a 3mm ball end mill. Note that I`m converting the dimensions to metric.




The Tappets finished. Note that the one on left side has a mark caused by the chuck jaw during the cutting off operation (cutter jammed).




And here are the Tappets mounted on the Block guides.




Here I`m turning a shaft to make the small Valve Keepers. Boy this is really small!!!!
I only realize how small it was when I cut off the first one. Here started my headache. I turned a OD to 4 mm than drilled as deep as it was possible with a 2mm drill. Next I moved it to the mill and using a 2mm saw blade I provided a slot as you can see on the photos bellow. Than moved the blank back to the late for countersinking the small recess after this the parts was basically finished it was only a matter of parting it off. 
I LOST ALL THE WORK. The cutter got jammed into the blank and destroyed the blank. I was using a 1.4mm cutting insert.













Here is the result of the parting off operation.




I`m now planning to make it different. I will cut off all the parts than put them on a 2mm shaft and clamp them on the vise and cut the slot. Hope it works.
Would anyone have a suggestion? A different method?


Thaks to all.

Edi


----------



## kcmillin

Hello Edi. 

In regards to the cooling I can only go by my experience with this engine, and I cannot say the same results will happen with different builders. That being said, while running the TI4 It would stay cool and would run for hours. One day I kept it running for over 6 hours with short breaks to re-fuel (both the engine and myself) before I got tired, but It could have gone much longer. It would only boil over if I was running it under load on the dyno, and I pushed this engine pretty hard, Im talking about 10,000 plus revs and holding for a few seconds and sometimes for a full minute. When I would run it on the dyno I could get about 5-10 minutes of run time before it would boil over, but I would keep it going anyway. I know it seems ludicrous to take something you spent 100's of hours on and  try to destroy it, and I kinda did. But hey, that's me, and I can always fix the parts because I made them to begin with. 

When I made the valve keepers I never thought it was going to work, but it did. When I made mine I think I spun the work at a somewhat high RPM, around 1000, but I can;t be certain. What speed are you using?

You could try to support the piece with a small rod held it the tailstock the same ID as the keeper. This would greatly reduce the chance of it bending.

Keep up the great work!

Kel


----------



## johnny1320

Hi Edi, what if you made a split bushing to slide the keeper blank into and cut one or two at a time. Don't have to much hanging out so it is   well supported.


----------



## e.picler

Hello guys!
It been a long time since my last post. Not much time for the engine building.
As you can see on the post I was not successful to make the valve spring clip. I have changed the process to first machine the little washer with the recess than cut the opening. It worked. See bellow the photos of how it was done.

Maching the ""washer" to the OD / ID end the recess.







The clips cut to the thickness spec.




After having the clips deburred I placed them on a drill to have all alined and fixed it on the vise as shown on the picture bellow.




Using a circular saw I cut the oppening. It was cut in small passes of 0.2mm.




For the last pass, I removed the drill.




Here is the finished clips. The new process worked fine.




I also have cut the fins on the pushrod cover. The plans from Kelly does not calls for that, however I thought it would have a better looking with the fins on. The video of Kelly`s engine you can see the pushrod with fins.







That`s it for now. Next post I will show you the tests I have done to machine the crankshaft on the milling machine. It really worked well. 

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## Howder1951

Nice project, I will be following for further advancements. Keep on posting bro.!


----------



## AussieJimG

Thanks Edi, I have learned some more

Jim


----------



## e.picler

As I mentioned before, I would like to show you the result of a test I did for machining the crankshaft on the milling machine with cnc.
For a long time I was thinking how I would machine the crankshaft without having many failures. A couple years ago I saw a video showing a six cylinder model engine crankshaft being machined o a milling machine, then I thought I could use my CNC milling machine to do the job, at least to do the rough job, leaving material for final the pass on the lathe or on a grinding machine.

Here is the video I`m referring to.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV1ZOzAaXbo[/ame]
As you can see on the video the blank was fixed on the dividing head (I think it is a rotary table on vertical position) with a device. For the pin throw, the device was moved of center and the milling head (z axis) was fixed.

My idea was little different. I wanted to use the CNC resources I had on hand generating a G code that would move the machine head with the blank fixed on the center of the dividing head (circular interpolation) but using the Z axis.
I use the Mastercam Software to generate my G codes. With the help of my Mastercam teacher *discussion*, we produced some tests shown on the videos bellow. 

I was right about my idea. The test worked fine Thm: only need some fine adjustments to eliminate unnecessary movements.
In order to avoid any "probably" damage to the machine or to the tool caused by a mistake, I run the test on a wooden blank.

First video shows the center bearing being machined. As the width of the bearing is 5.59mm and I used a 4mm end mill it was necessary 2 passes.
[ame]http://youtu.be/CwQQ9UtWpCE[/ame]

The second video shows the crank pin being machined. Observe the movement of the Z axis.
[ame]http://youtu.be/w95zgWEtOkU[/ame]

I`m really happy with the result, now I can start machining the real crankshaft on a 01 steel blank.

I also used the same idea to machine the camshaft. It also worked fine. I dont have the video because I screwed the blank due to a mistake :wall:*club* on zeroing the axis. I did a second test but no video was generated.
When machining the real camshaft I will make a video.

Well, one more step reached in direction to a running engine "I hope"

Thanks for watching and I hope you liked this.

Edi


----------



## barnesrickw

Like the double slitting blade on the arbor.


----------



## SMG

Wow!  Looking really good!  Can't wait to see how your crankshaft turns out.  I'm getting closer to starting mine, unfortunately for me I don't have the luxuries of a CNC.  I'm thinking about mounting my Sherline lathe on the table of my Bridgeport mill and ruffling it out with a end mill.  Good luck on your progress!


----------



## stevehuckss396

SMG said:


> I'm thinking about mounting my Sherline lathe on the table of my Bridgeport mill and ruffling it out with a end mill.




I have found that roughing the ends and centers on the lathe and then the rod journals in the mill is about the easiest and quickest way to rough a crankshaft.


----------



## Hopper

Awesome work. Subscribed.
Looking forward to the real crank video.


----------



## e.picler

Hi all!
Regarding finishing the centers and throws, and considering that I don't have an OD grinder, for a long time I was thinking if I could do some grinding on the milling machine. So, I started working on a project to adapt a small toll post grinder on the milling machine.
I already did some tests to see how it would fit on the milling. It showed to be very feasible.
My first option is to use the configuration as a CNC grinder, however if it does not show good result or to complicated to operate, I still can use it as a manual OD grinder.
I will post this evening some photos of the machine with the "grinder device" and the modified tool post.

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## AussieJimG

e.picler said:


> I will post this evening some photos of the machine with the "grinder device" and the modified tool post.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Edi



That looks interesting Edi, I will be watching.

Jim


----------



## e.picler

Well as said on last post here are more details about my test adapting a toll post on the milling machine.

These first photos show the device on top of the bench for you to have a idea on what I will explain.













As you can see on the photo I used a square device (gray) to fix the tool post grinder. I machined a disc to fix the grinder on the square device (it came with the machine as a fixture to hold a hole grinder).
This device goes in the place of the milling head (see photo later)

In order to adapt the toll post grinder I had to modify the position of the motor because it was conflicting with the square fixture. The motor plate holder was cut on a laser machine 3mm thickness plate. The motor was moved to the opposite side from the original position. See the modifications on the photo bellow.




Bellow you can see photos of how it was fixed on the milling machine.
















Here is the head of the machine that was removed from it.




I still did not test it in running condition. In theory it should work. In some cases what is so evident on theory, does not work when it is submitted to real work.
I will be testing it on the camshaft and crankshaft.

I hope you liked that and I was clear enough (with my mechanical English vocabulary limitation) to pass you all the details of what was done.

That's it guys.

Edi


----------



## Walltoddj

e.picler said:


> As I mentioned before, I would like to show you the result of a test I did for machining the crankshaft on the milling machine with cnc.
> For a long time I was thinking how I would machine the crankshaft without having many failures. A couple years ago I saw a video showing a six cylinder model engine crankshaft being machined o a milling machine, then I thought I could use my CNC milling machine to do the job, at least to do the rough job, leaving material for final the pass on the lathe or on a grinding machine.
> 
> Here is the video I`m referring to.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NV1ZOzAaXbo
> As you can see on the video the blank was fixed on the dividing head (I think it is a rotary table on vertical position) with a device. For the pin throw, the device was moved of center and the milling head (z axis) was fixed.
> 
> My idea was little different. I wanted to use the CNC resources I had on hand generating a G code that would move the machine head with the blank fixed on the center of the dividing head (circular interpolation) but using the Z axis.
> I use the Mastercam Software to generate my G codes. With the help of my Mastercam teacher *discussion*, we produced some tests shown on the videos bellow.
> 
> I was right about my idea. The test worked fine Thm: only need some fine adjustments to eliminate unnecessary movements.
> In order to avoid any "probably" damage to the machine or to the tool caused by a mistake, I run the test on a wooden blank.
> 
> First video shows the center bearing being machined. As the width of the bearing is 5.59mm and I used a 4mm end mill it was necessary 2 passes.
> http://youtu.be/CwQQ9UtWpCE
> 
> The second video shows the crank pin being machined. Observe the movement of the Z axis.
> http://youtu.be/w95zgWEtOkU
> 
> I`m really happy with the result, now I can start machining the real crankshaft on a 01 steel blank.
> 
> I also used the same idea to machine the camshaft. It also worked fine. I don&#8217;t have the video because I screwed the blank due to a mistake :wall:*club* on zeroing the axis. I did a second test but no video was generated.
> When machining the real camshaft I will make a video.
> 
> Well, one more step reached in direction to a running engine "I hope"
> 
> Thanks for watching and I hope you liked this.
> 
> Edi



I like your idea with the CNC it will work just need to get the code right I'd say. Now if I may my last job was a GM crank line our first op was to drill both ends and tap the holes all with CNC. The second was rough the pins we had a circular insert mill  that rotated to cut the undercuts and the pin to size. The CNC was programmed the move from pin to pin and the cutter would move up and down as the crank rotated. There were other thing done but that was it till finish grind with a pink I thing gel wheel they lasted a long time between changes. I hope I get this to work out for you.
Ps. May want to try circular cutter in this case a circular saw the right width for your crank they seen to cut smoother for us.
Todd


----------



## AussieJimG

Well done Edi, a really professional job.

Jim


----------



## akshadeep27

Hi, My name is Deepak. I am from India. I would like to the the plans for your inline 4 engine.
Plz email me.
Cheers Deepak


----------



## ruzzie

Their is a nice cnc cam grinding program @  http://gcam.lucasemail.org/
It maybe worth a play with.

Paul


----------



## e.picler

akshadeep27 said:


> Hi, My name is Deepak. I am from India. I would like to the the plans for your inline 4 engine.
> Plz email me.
> Cheers Deepak



Hello Deepak!
I may find all  the information on how to buy the Tyne 4 Inline plans on the link bellow.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f12/tiny-inline-4-cylinder-ic-plans-sale-14833/

This engine was disigned by Kcmillin and you can find a complete log of his building  on the link bellow:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/tiny-inline-4-cylinder-ic-10240/

I`m pretty sure you will enjoy building it. The plans are well detailed and in case of any question, is just a matter of sending an e-mail to Kel and he will reply to you very fast.

Edi


----------



## paulolondres

ola amigo sou de santa catarina e estou fazendo uma lancha de 1.80 rc, e precisava de um motor deste, você esta usando projeto para a construção. valeu.

[email protected]


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## agmachado

Paulo,

Existe os desenhos para comprar... mas estes motores não são feitos para durabilidade.

Considere usar motores de 2 tempos... veja em http://www.davesmotors.com/Products/Complete-Engines/

Abs!

Alexandre


----------



## e.picler

Hello all there!
It's been a long ,time since my last post. I have spent several hours testing the CNC machining operation for the crankshaft. I machined a complete crankshaft on a wood blank to complete test the program. It worked well in terms of G Code just a few unnecessary G0 moves but nothing that affected the final result, just added some minutes to the operation. I will show you pictures and videos of the test.
I also tested the program for the camshaft. It also worked well, this time I tested on a aluminum blank. Again unnecessary G0 movements appeared here. I was not able to remove it from the program.

After my incursions on the CNC field, I made some progress on the Tiny 4 inline project. 
I have machined the crankshaft, main bearing bushings, spark plugs and the connecting rod bearing bushings.
I also touched the carburetor. I have done the lathe operation for the body.
Pictures and videos are coming.

Thanks,
Edi


----------



## e.picler

As I said, on previous post, here are the pictures of my progress on project.

Turning the spark plug body




Machining the opposite side for the isolator




Milling the the end for ground tip







The electrodes with brass contact soldered




Here is the isolator made out of Corian







This is it for today. The internet link is not helping at all today.
More pictures this weekend.

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

OK. I think I got a good internet link now.

What I want show you is the crankshaft machining on the milling machine.

Preparing the blank




First I machined the crankpins




Than the center bearings







In order to avoid the get a warping during the milling operation, I have shimmed the  crankpins space with a brass washer as you can see on the photo bellow.







Finished the milling operation. Now the idea is to take the crank to the lathe for the grinding operation




I fixed it on the lathe between center. With a small toll post grinder I did the grinding first on the center bearings (what I found lather being a mistake) I should have done first the crankpins because I got a small warping when grinding the it so I had to regrind the center bearings and the ends.
Opps! The grinding wheel you see is a Borason with 4mm thickeness.







Finished the center bearings and the ends.




For the crankpins grinding I did something maybe different than you guys are used to. I Prepared a device (two pieces) with center holes displaced with the same dimention of the overthrow. The pictures will explain better than my words.








Getting the center of the hole
[URL=http://s1266.photobucket.com/user/epicler/media/2014-08-30%20Virabrequim/DSCN2534_zpsea920027.jpg.html]
	







[/URL]

Next I fixed the devices on the each end of the crankshaft and centered it with hight gage on the granite block










Moved it again to the lathe for the grinding of the crankpins fixing between center as I got the centers with the devices on the ends




Finished crankshaft




Next job was to make the center and ends bearings







My first idea to split the bushings was milling off half of it so I would get a perfect bearing. Surprise!! It was a disaster, the end mill destroyed the piece, I think it was too thin for this type of operation.







I decided to use a circular saw with 0.6mm thickness for this task. It worked perfectely




The bushings mounted on the journals













OK guys that is the report of my progress so far. Lots of learning. Getting KnowHow!!!

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## stevehuckss396

Nice work Edi!!!


----------



## AussieJimG

That's coming along fine Edi

Jim


----------



## e.picler

As on the previous post I still did not have the videos uploaded on the youtube site, I`m posting some videos of my progress here.

Thirst one is the milling operation of the crankpin using the 4th axis on the milling machine. Observe that the 4 axis were used for this operation
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrZ3f1csRGc[/ame]

The second one is the grinding of the crankpins on the crankshaft.
As the space was too small, I had to order a spacial Borason grinding wheel with 4mm thickness.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QC7W0vYCw5U[/ame]

Here you see the center bearings being ground
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwWJKH-FDT8[/ame]

I will post some more videos this weekend.

Have a good weekend to all.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello again!
This weekend I have done a good progress. I have finished the Spar Plugs, the bushings for the connecting rods ans also made the motor mount.

Here are the pictures.

The finished spark plugs




And the videos of the CNC operation of the body
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3UNLPz9syc[/ame]

Maching the the cinecting rods bushings







Spliting the bushings using a circular saw







In order to get a good adjustment of the bushings to the crankpins, I had to make a device to turn the halves together 




Mounted connecting rods. It is running smoothly




Here the oil tube was installed on bottom side of the connecting rods




I was taking a look at the engine plans and decided to make the motor mount.

Squaring the stock




Roughing passes using a milling head




Machining the 20 degrees angle




Parting off. I did a blank long enough for 4 parts




Bringing it to  the right width







Finished




Ok, a couple of more parts done. 
Almost there!!

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello guys!
You may observed that the spark plug body was machined on a CNC lathe. Maybe this would not be the right thread to talk about that but, once this is associated to this engine building, I will tell you a bit about this machine.

It is a SIEG bench top 8 tool turret slate bed CNC lathe. I have purchased this machine a long time ago but the machine I originally received did not worked. The Sieg company in china tried to fix the lathe from China sending me several versions of the control program. I spent almost 4 months doing what they were asking to do without any progress. 
Finally they decided to recall the machine so I returned it to the local Brazilian dealer. After 4 more months they sent me a brand new machine (working machine).
well, this time the machine is running very well, I did several tests on it with very good results. 
I did some tests to practice my ability to write the G Code program as well as to test the machine.

See sample and videos of the tests bellow.










A couple of pictures of the machine. The black thing sitting on top of the machine is a Lap Top computer that I`m using to control the machine







Here you have a better view of the 8 tool turret. It has 4 external and 4 internal tool post




And here a video of one of the tests
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kMRtjMks9o[/ame]

Based on my experience with this machine so far, I can tell you that I`m happy with it.
The only part of my current project (Tiny 4 inline) that I have machined on this lathe so far, was the Spark Plug body.

Thanks for following this thread and posting appreciated comments

Edi


----------



## celsoari

show de bola na usinagem Edi


----------



## mdasseville

Loved the thread just got my plans for the engine today

Looking forward to the build after seeing this

Mike


----------



## e.picler

Hello Guys!
After a long time I was able to do some more work on the Tiny 4 inline project. I have touched the manifold, exhausting and the valves.
Bellow is the intake manifold being machined on the milling machine




Here is the manifold soldered to the carb mount













Bellow is the exhausting mount. Flange and pipes soldered




Now the assembly is polished




I also started to machine the valves. First I tried on the conventional lathe than I thought I could do it on the cnc lathe once it would be a repetitive work.

Here is the first valve on the conventional lathe




This one is the machining of the valves on the cnc lathe







 And here the valves semi-finished. I decided to leave some material to finish on the conventional lathe because the tight tolerance on the valve stem and the head hole, also to guarantee the concentricity between the stem and the chamfer.




Today I prepared the camshaft on the lathe. I will post the pictures and video  lather.

Thanks.

Edi


----------



## mdasseville

Hi Edi,
Looking very good 

Just starting myself,..well still looking at the plans Lol.....Still setting up my CNC lathe and milling machine taking a lot longer than i had thought it would.

Still got to get my head around Mach3 and Cambam.

Do you have any Gcode for this engine? that you wouldn't mind passing on,..I can prove that i have paid for the drawing last week for this engine,

Anyway any help would be great 

Mike


----------



## e.picler

Hello Mike!
I`m happy to know that you have selected the same engine Im building. It is a intriguing project. Kel the man that designed this engine did a good job on the drawing very detailed, you will not face problems only be prepared to deal with very small parts.
No problems, I will be glad to share the G codes with you but you will need to test it before because there are 3 different G codes (A, B and C) used on the controllers available on the market the one I have uses B.

Good luck with your building. feel free to ask for any help.

Edi


----------



## celsoari

its amazing


----------



## celsoari

Nice job, my friend Edi


----------



## mdasseville

Hi Edi,

I'm using Hobbycnc controllers,...don't know if they are a/b/c ? do you know how to find out?

Mike


----------



## e.picler

Mike,
First take a look on the Hobbycnc manual and look for a list of the G codes it uses. As I said before (according my limited knowledge) there are 3 types of FANUC  commands on the market, type A, B, and C.

Go to the internet and google for a table of G codes types and compare which one maches with the one the Hobbycnc uses. I found in one article that Type C is European standard.
Take a look here, page 16 and 17 https://books.google.com.br/books?i...ble of types of cnc g codes a b and c&f=false

For example: Type A and B uses G70 for finishing cycle and type C uses for the same cycle G72. Thread cycle on Type A is G92 Type b is G78 and Type C is G21. 
Another example: Data input in inch on type A is G20   Type B is G20  and Type C is G70.

I had to do that for my CNC lathe from SIEG (Chinese brand) and I found that they use Type B code.

I hope I could help you. There are many fellows here that have a better knowledge on CNC matters than me.

Edi


----------



## mdasseville

Hi Edi,

Yes i see what you mean now,..I have just looked at Mach3 which is the software that controls my drivers "hobbycnc" and it looks like its type "B".

It looks like if i sit and change the gcode i can use any A B or C as long as they do the same movment.
Do you have a small gcode file there i could try if i can change it than thats fine if not i do not want to waste your time in sending more code to me which i cannot use 



Mike


----------



## e.picler

OK Mike. Dont worry it is my pleasure to be of any help for you.

I`m sending attached to you the program for the Water Pump Bracket blank profile Drawing Sheet 25 Rev. C. 
See bellow the attached file. The file name is in Portuguese, it means `Pump Support Profile.

For your knowledge the dimensions are in millimeters, here in Brazil we use metric system. I could work with inch but I don't feel comfortable with that.

It is not exactly a simple one, however if it pass on your test, the probability of working in a more complex part is really high, than I will send you all the other programs I have.
Oh! I forgot to tell you that I use a Cam software (MasterCam) to generate the G codes. There are many other ones that do the same, you may find one that is suitable for you. 

 USE A 3mm END MILL ON THE TEST (the program was generated for this end mill). If you don't have metric end mill, no problem you can use 1/8''. The only difference is that the final part will not have the exactly dimensions the drawing calls for because the controller will compensate the radius of the tool as 3mm tool diameter and you are using 3.175mm (1/8'').

Please let me know if you need more help.

Good luck

Edi 

View attachment SUPORTE DA BOMBA CONTORNO.doc


----------



## e.picler

Hi Mike!
I forgot to tell you that the *X* and *Y* axis zero is the first top small hole on the right side of the part. The *Y* zero is the top of the blank.
The Z depth is programmed for 1,7mm. I suggest you to use a piece of wood with a thickness of over 2mm so the part will not fall out when finished the operation.


Edi


----------



## mdasseville

Hi Edi,

Thanks for the Gcode,...wont have a chance to look at it as i'm working away from home till the weekend

Mke


----------



## Alec Ryals

Great Job an Great pictures are a master machinist ?
Alec


----------



## e.picler

Hello Mike!
That is the part I have sent you the G code.








You may see more pictures here on post #38 of page 4

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi Alec! 
Thanks for the kind words.
No I'm not a Master Machinist. In the beginning of my carrier (30 years ago) I have worked as a Machinist so, I still have some experience on that.

Thanks,


Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello everybody!
Some more work done on the building. This time I was able to finish the valves.
First I turned the valve stem to the right dimension. On the same set up I also machined the head chamfer to guarantee the concentricity between the stem and  the chamfer surface. Doing that I think I reduce the chance of bad fitting of the valve chamfer and the valve seat chamfer on the head.









Here you can see the compound slide set to 45 degrees




Using the same set up in order to guarantee the same valve angle I also turned the tool for the head valve  chamfer seat








Then I took the tool to the milling machine to make the cutting edges. I made four flute




the tool in action providing the valve seat chamfer on the head
















Making the collet to machine the clip groove and machine the extra material off the head.




Turning the valve keeper (clip) groove












Machining the extra material off the valve head








Valves finished












 I used automobil lapping compund to lap the valves with the head seat. Grosso means Coarse and Fino means Fine




I then used a small Dremel to lap the valves








The head with the finished valves on it




Next I plan to finish the camshaft. I already machined the blank. It is only missing the lobes and the thread for the distributor gear.





Tanks

Edi


----------



## celsoari

Caramba... trabalho de relojoeiro... parabéns... da gosto de ver ED


----------



## mdasseville

Hi Edi,

Still having problems converting my mill and being away last week has cost me more time

Will get to it this weekend 

Mike


----------



## e.picler

Hi to all,
Not much work since last post. I only worked on the camshaft blank machining the lobes on it and grinding the journals for the bushings.

Here you can see the blank at the milling machine. I used the CNC for this operation.
















Finished the lobes. It took me about 2 hours to machine the 8 lobes




I still need to do the fine finishing with a file and sand paper




Next I set it between centers to grind the journals for the bronze bushings








Here I`m grinding the 3mm diameter for the distributor gear. I ground the three diameter on the same set up to guarantee the concentricity




Almost finished camshaft. Still missing the 2,5mm thread on right end for the distributor gear








Here I`m turning the front camshaft bushing








The rear end bushing on the lathe








The bushings on it`s place


 





The bushings








Like I said before, not much work, but I`m getting there.

TKS,

Edi


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Edi,
Just a suggestion. 
When cutting a cam lobe with the end mill sitting on center it produces a crown on the lobe equal to the clearance angle of the cutter you're using. If that's the way you are going to make your lobes it would be better to grind the end mill flat on the bottom. Better yet it would produce a nicer job if you would step off the lobes, down in Z over in Y, down in Z, over in Y. It would also reduce the amount of hand work to finish the lobes. 
Attached is a sheet I had drawn for the way I design and machine a cam. I don't know whether I had posted it before but if not here it is again.
gbritnell 

View attachment CAM LAYOUT DRAWING.pdf


----------



## e.picler

Hi George!
Tank very much for your tips. It will be very helpful next time I will test following your advice.
You are right it produced a crown around the lobe profile

As I have a CNC milling machine, over the years I was thinking how I could use it as a adapted cam grinding machine.
I had a small tool post grinder sitting around then I adapted it to the milling machine removing the gear head and fixing the tool post grinder in the place of the gear head.
I think that the potential of it to work is high once I need only two axis moving, the fourth axis rotating and the Y axis moving forward and backward.

See some photos bellow.

















I still did not test it. Because I need to generate the G code for the lobe grinding.
As I remember someone posted something about a free software to generate the G code using the `Y-axis and fourth axis movement but I cannot find it here again.
I may try to generate the G code on the MasterCam, however it demands expertise on 3D features of the software which I don`t have.

Edi


----------



## Jesse1590bleich

Hey im in the process of build this same engine i bought the plans and i was wondering how do i make spark plugs or how did you do it its confusing thanks


----------



## djalal

how water circulate in block !!​


----------



## petertha

e.picler said:


> I had a small tool post grinder sitting around then I adapted it to the milling machine removing the gear head and fixing the tool post grinder in the place of the gear head. Edi


 
I like your tool post grinder. Can you tell me more about it? Did you make the spindle yourself, or was it a commercial unit?


----------



## e.picler

Jesse1590bleich said:


> Hey im in the process of build this same engine i bought the plans and i was wondering how do i make spark plugs or how did you do it its confusing thanks



Hi Jesse!
I machined the body on a small CNC lathe. I wrote the G code and machined 10 parts from a 1/4' hexagonal bar, then I took it to the milling machine holding the body with the rotary head to machine ground strap. Please take a look on post #99 

I hope I helped. If you need any help during your building, feel free to contact me. Count on me.


Edi


----------



## e.picler

djalal said:


> how water circulate in block !!​



Hello Djalal,
The water is pumped entering on the front of the block circulating around the cylinders lines and getting out on the back of the block.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

petertha said:


> I like your tool post grinder. Can you tell me more about it? Did you make the spindle yourself, or was it a commercial unit?



Hello Petertha,
The post grinder is commercial; in fact it is a optional from a small Chinese lathe I purchased years ego.
The bearings are not for high speed use so I will replace them to a better quality ones.

Edi


----------



## Jesse1590bleich

Hey edi thanks i will try that i was wondering what is that tool called that is in you milling machine that you used to cut the crankshaft bearings in half thanks


----------



## e.picler

Jesse1590bleich said:


> Hey edi thanks i will try that i was wondering what is that tool called that is in you milling machine that you used to cut the crankshaft bearings in half thanks



Hey Jesse!
If you are talking about post #100 and #103, it is an end mill 4mm diameter. The fllowing pictures shows the grinding wheel grinding the bearings.

TKS,

Edi


----------



## Jesse1590bleich

Did u get the engine to run


----------



## e.picler

Jesse1590bleich said:


> Did u get the engine to run



Hello Jesse,
No not yet, I still have a couple of parts to machine. They are not complex, however I don`t have much time lately to dedicate to this project.

TKS,

Edi


----------



## GreggA

Could you tell me what number gear cutter you use for the 12 tooth 48DP bevel/miter gears for the distributor?
Thanks!


----------



## e.picler

GreggA said:


> Could you tell me what number gear cutter you use for the 12 tooth 48DP bevel/miter gears for the distributor?
> Thanks!



Hi Greg!
I used cutter number 8 12-13 teeth. If you are making the same engine I`m making, you will also need number 7 14-16 teeth and number 4 26-34 teeth.

I hope it help you.

Edi


----------



## Alec Ryals

I ordered these prints from the fellow and never got them!
Alec Ryals


----------



## GreggA

Hey edi!
Thanks for the reply.
I see you used a #8 cutter...DId you make the offset cuts with that cutter as well, or finish the gears by hand.
My calculations tell me I should use a number 7 cutter to account for the offset moves...
I appreciate your input.
Thanks.


----------



## ruzzie

G-CAM Generate gcode for cam grinding

http://gcam.lucasemail.org/


----------



## e.picler

GreggA said:


> Hey edi!
> Thanks for the reply.
> I see you used a #8 cutter...DId you make the offset cuts with that cutter as well, or finish the gears by hand.
> My calculations tell me I should use a number 7 cutter to account for the offset moves...
> I appreciate your input.
> Thanks.



that`s OK Greg. My pleasure!
No I did not make the offset cut, I plan to rework the gears to machine the offset and correct the teeth profile.

Edi


----------



## Stieglitz

Hi Edi,
        Good to meet you and really appreciate all the pictures,I will watch your progress with much interest.
Allen.


----------



## e.picler

ello to all!
I'm back to the shop to finish the Tiny 4 In Line (Kelly Design).
I need to rework the distributor bevel gears because the teeth profile is not correct. The teeth head is not parallel. I did not correct the profile.

The gears are 12 teeth 48 DP 1:1 ratio

See picture bellow




*I will now follow Gail instructions bellow*
Now with Dan's easy graphical solution there is only one number left that will be needed to to machine the gear. That will be a constant for any given diametrical pitch (DP) and is Pi/(4*DP). In your case using 48 DP cutters it is Pi/(4*48= Pi/192 = 0.0164

This is the vertical distance that you have to move the cutter off of the center line of the blank to make the cutter pass through the same point on the pitch circle when the gear blank is rotated 1/4 tooth. 

To machine the gear, put the blank on an arbor and the cutter on the center line of the arbor. Cut all the teeth indexing a full tooth. In the case of a 40 tooth gear this will be 360/40 = 9 degrees.

Next index the gear 1/4 of a tooth. In the 40 tooth gear this will be 9/4 =2.25 degrees. Now move the cutter vertically the amount calculated above so that it will pass through the same gash at the small end of the bevel. You will have to raise or lower the cutter depending on which way you indexed the 2.25 degrees. Go all the way around the gear again in full tooth increments. Now take out the 2.25 degrees to get back to center line and go an additional 2.25 degrees. Now move the cutter so it again passes through the same spot on the pitch cirlcle. If you raised it before, lower it twice the above calculated value and you should be there. Onc more around in full tooth increments and you are done.


A few notes. 
Use the same cutter number that you would use if cutting a spur gear with the same number of teeth. 

Try to arrange the work so the cutter is pushing the blank onto your mandrel. Dedending on your index head it is sometimes easier to put the cutter on reversed and run the mill in reverse in order to get the index head crank in a easier position to operate. You will be turning it a lot.

If your are just playing, I suggest that you cut a 1:1 set of 18 tooth gears to get the feel for it. This makes all the indexing angles even numbers and a multiple of 5 degrees. You can even do this with a spindex. The 1:1 ratio makes the blank angles 45 degrees which is easy to set up on the lathe. 
___________
Gail in New Mexico, USA

*HERE IS MY DOUBT AND NEED HELP.* 
WHAT IS THE ANGLE I SHOULD SET THE DIVIDING HEAD? WOULD IT BE 45 DEGREES THE SAME AS THE BLANK HEAD? AS GAIL DID NOT SAY ABOUT THAT I'M ASSUMING IT IS THE SAME.
Some literature says that the angle of the valey is different from the top.

Thanks in advance for your kind help.

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hello Edi.
In your case, 45* angle. have fun
CS


----------



## e.picler

Hi CS!
Thanks for your help. I think I will need a cuple new blanks and start it over.

Di you finished your Tiny 4?

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

e.picler said:


> Hi CS!
> Thanks for your help. I think I will need a cuple new blanks and start it over.
> 
> Di you finished your Tiny 4?
> 
> Edi


Hi again Edi
Yes I have  finished the Tiny. And had it running. But the piston o-rings wear out so it has been sitting on the shelv for long time.
One day in the future I will make new  pistons in cast iron steel that are lapped to the cylinders.
CS


----------



## crankshafter

Hi again Edi.
Yes I have finnished the Tiny, and had it running. The  O-rings on the pistons is now weard out so I have to tear it down to fit new ones. Or I make new pistons out of cast iron. This piston will be lapped to the cylinders to avoid using pistonrings
CS


----------



## e.picler

That is great CS. Congratulation!
I was looking at your Tiny4 thread but could not see the pictures.
Do you have a video of the tiny4 running?
How did you lap the cylinders?

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi all!
This is a test on posting pictures.
Thanks for you advise Cogsy! I think it worked!!!


----------



## e.picler

Hi to all!
As you may know I screwed on making the distributor gears. I tried to rework them to correct the profile of the teeth but it did not work.
I decided to make new ones.

Last photo is a test of the program. I tried to post a video of the gear being machined on CNC rotary table but, I was not able. 
As you can see the teeth are now correct.


----------



## e.picler

I also did the bronze bearings for the camshaft.


----------



## e.picler

Next I lapped the liners. As dont have a honing tool, I decided to make a test grinding it on the lathe. For that I installed a router spindle on the cross slide of the lathe. It really worked well.
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

I then changed the grid of the grinding bit for final finishing
[/ATTACH]


----------



## Cogsy

Great to see you back at it Edi. I think you've been building your Tiny almost as long as I've been building my Peewee. I'm happy to not be the only one who takes a while to get these things finished!


----------



## e.picler

Thanks Cogsy!
I had some personal issues that made me to be away from my engine project. I'm now very motivated to finish this project and start on the PeeWee (I also have the kit). I'm following your building with very close interest.

The little Tiny Inline Four is almost ready to test if it runs. Only needing some fine adjustments on some moving parts.
I already tested the distributor gears assembled on the block and distributor body and it is working fine.

Today I will post some more photos.


Edi


----------



## celsoari

Fantastic Edi
forte abraço
Celso Ari


----------



## e.picler

Hi Guys!
Here are samo more photos of my progress.
Had the Liners installed and leveled them to the block. I have used Loctite to fix it to the block.





Tested the Gears on the distributor Body and Camshaft. Worked really fine moving freely



I also finished the Spark Plugs and tested it on the cooker ligher spark (my wife cooker Hahahaha)



Here is a test of the valve spring clip



I would like your opinion/recommendation on the Crankshaft.
Should I machine the counter balances or should leave as it is?







That is it for today.

Edi


----------



## Stieglitz

Hi Edi , Please keep the photos coming,excellent work.
Cheers
Allen


----------



## Cogsy

I don't know how much difference it really makes for balance, but I personally like the look of machined counterweights better than round ones. However, realistically no-one will see it when it's assembled and of course there's always a risk of making an error while machining and possibly messing up what you've already done. So it's really your choice. It's all looking really nice!


----------



## e.picler

Cogsy,
Thanks for your comments and advise.

Bellow is a photo to show the finishing I got on piston liners.




The way I machined the cam lobes, the end mill produced a crown on the base of the lobe, you can see it on the  photo bellow.



To remove the crown I grinded the lobe moving the grinder chuck by hand from one flank to the other flank. See the result bellow



Boring the piston pin hole





Alining the bore to machine the slot for the conecting rod





Then I took the piston to the lathe to remove the epigot used to hold the piston on the milling vise. I used the pin hole as a stopper to ensure all the pistons had the same dimension from the center hole to the top of the piston







Thanks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

As I said before, see bellow some videos of Distributor Gears Being machined on CNC Rotary Table

This is not the final Gear. It is only a sample to test the G-Code
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79aqdGQkKp8[/ame]

Cutting the Offset of the first side of the teeth
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Eco4dwZWqQ[/ame]

Cutting the Offset of the other side of the teeth
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJb3ExquXpU[/ame]

Thanks for watching,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi fellows!

Is there a way to post videos direct here without uploading the video to Youtube?

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## Cogsy

I don't think there is Edi. YouTube is the best option I'm aware of.


----------



## e.picler

Hello to all!
Some more progress to share with you.

After the offset correction, it is working fine





Spark plugs finished the final touch



Detail of the valve spring clip



Turning the crank gear ID





Mounted the two gears heating up the big steel gear



Breaking in the pistons and general bearings (crank and conecting rods)



Cleaning for final assembly



Making the spark plug relief


----------



## e.picler

Hi all!
I have a question and need help from you all.
I'm now ready to install the eletronic iginition and the CDI supplier sent the following notes with the kit regarding the Hall Sensor



The plans call for this





The hall sensor is in contact with the metal from the distributor case.
How do I proceed with the installation of the hall sensor?

The ones that already built this engine could help?

Thanks in advance


Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi Edi.
From what I see from the pictures you  have mounted the hallsensor perfect as plans describe. Nice work Edi:thumbup:

CS


----------



## e.picler

crankshafter said:


> Hi Edi.
> From what I see from the pictures you  have mounted the hallsensor perfect as plans describe. Nice work Edi:thumbup:
> 
> CS



Hello CS!
Thanks for your note.

Have you fixed your sensor like I showed on the pictures? Did you glued the hall sensor on the small Strap/Tab?

One more advise about the contact of the CDI spark to the distributor rotor contact. 
Please see picture bellow for better understanding



Thanks,

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi again Edi.
No contact just a small airgap and the spark will jump. ca 0,3mm:thumbup:

CS


----------



## canadianhorsepower

e.picler said:


> The hall sensor is in contact with the metal from the distributor case.
> How do I proceed with the installation of the hall sensor?
> 
> Edi


nice set up:thumbup:

personally, to play it safe because those hall sensor are quite sensative
to back EMF I would put a small piece of plastic behind it to isolate from the motor. one are two layer of scotch tape would do


----------



## e.picler

Dears!
I'm here again to ask for help on the ignition installation. I'm a dummy about electronics.

I have a doubt about a resistor that come with the kit. Picture bellow



There is the following note with the resistor



*Where exactly it goes?* I'm really confusedAlso see item C of the instructions



The last two pictures is to show how I think it should be installed. Is it correct? Where the resistor should be installed?

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## canadianhorsepower

e.picler said:


> The last two pictures is to show how I think it should be installed. Is it correct? Where the resistor should be installed?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Edi



it goes at your coil output. between the plug and the coil


----------



## Stieglitz

Hi Looks like the engine isn't far off being run will you be posting a video of it running?
Cheers
Allen


----------



## e.picler

Hello Allen!
For sure I will post a video. It will be a pleasure to share with the folks here.
I plan to tray the first run this weekend, I'm very anxious to see it making noise. It is the first engine I ever built.

I really hope I don't face much problem (bugs) making it run.

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## Cogsy

Fingers crossed for you Edi. Looking forward to the video for sure!


----------



## e.picler

Hi fellows!
I tried to start the TI4 today.
For my deception it did not started, even did not showed any signal.
I checked the ignition system including distributor, spark plug and CDI and found everything to be OK.
I observed that it seems that instead of the carburetor be sucking in, it is blowing fuel out.

Did I do something wrong on the camshaft?

Totally disappointed

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## canadianhorsepower

e.picler said:


> Did I do something wrong on the camshaft?
> 
> Edi


I tried to help you on both of your last post........................
no response from your side
I assume trying now isn't going to help ...... ill PASS


----------



## Cogsy

It could be that your valves are leaking though if it's fully exhausting through the carb I would suspect cam timing might be the cause. All I can suggest for now is to double check the cam timing.


----------



## e.picler

canadianhorsepower said:


> I tried to help you on both of your last post........................
> no response from your side
> I assume trying now isn't going to help ...... ill PASS



Hello Luc!
I really feel sorry for that:wall:. Your help and suggestions are great appreciated. 
I have answered your previous posts. Just skiped the last two. Maybe to anxious to see this litlle beast runing.

On post #172 I just forgot to tell you that I got a note from the CDI supplier that the resistor is not necessary for this type of distributor. He will not send the resistor anymore.

Regarding your post #170 I followed your suggestion just added a bit of super bond glue. 

I hope you understand and continue helping passing me with your experience which is very valuable.

Thank you very much.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

crankshafter said:


> Hi again Edi.
> No contact just a small airgap and the spark will jump. ca 0,3mm:thumbup:
> 
> CS



It worked just like you said. The distributor is working perfectly.:thumbup:

Thanks

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Cogsy said:


> It could be that your valves are leaking though if it's fully exhausting through the carb I would suspect cam timing might be the cause. All I can suggest for now is to double check the cam timing.



OK Cogsy.
I will, check the timing to make sure it is correct. Regarding the valves leaking I have to find a way to check that because I don't have a vacuum pump.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

One more detail I forgot to mention. 
I don't know important it is and what difference it make.
I'm using Benzine (airplane gasoline) it has high Octane.

TKS,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello to all!
I just found what I did wrong on the camshaft.
I did not pay much attention on the setup of the milling machine to machine the lobes.

According the drawing instruction the rotary table should be set at the right side of the machine. I have set the rotary table on the left side as usual.





Checking the drawing bellow, I found that the way I machined the camshaft it is backward. The drawing view is from front and, the one I machined match the drawing if the view is from the back.



I tested the engine running it on counterclowise and it started giving some signal of life producing some puffing. I also changed the spark plug cables because the distributor rotor turn on the opposite direction.

I already started a new cameshaft.

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi Edi.
Good to see you have sorted it. A couple of days and we will hear some noise
One thing to mention: do not run the engine without COOLING for more than few seconds each time and let it cool down before next try. If you do you will
destroy the piston-orings. do not ask why I mention this:hDe::hDe::wall: 
TI4 is a hi rev. engine( idle 5-6K) and it will heat up werry quick.

best regards
CS


----------



## e.picler

Hi CS!
Thanks for the recommendation about running without cooling.
I was planning to the TI4 with the water pump installed without the radiator circulating the water in a small reservoir.

I hope to finish the new camshaft this week.

:thumbup:

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi again CS!
I did not find the drawing detail for the carburetor air bleed needle.
How did you do yours?


Thanks,

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

e.picler said:


> Hi again CS!
> I did not find the drawing detail for the carburetor air bleed needle.
> How did you do yours?
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Edi


I did it pr.plans. I try to attach a picture.
Airbleed adjustingscrew to the right. Airbleed hole to the left.PSEdi it looks like there is  three holes. The middle one is the acctual hole. the to others is missplaced punchmarks(shaking hand syndrom;-))
CS.View attachment 20180417_083029.jpg


----------



## e.picler

crankshafter said:


> I did it pr.plans. I try to attach a picture.
> Airbleed adjustingscrew to the right. Airbleed hole to the left.PSEdi it looks like there is  three holes. The middle one is the acctual hole. the to others is missplaced punchmarks(shaking hand syndrom;-))
> CS.View attachment 95046



Thanks CS!
Is the end of the little screw tapered? I am guessing there is an angle. What is that 45, 30degrees??

Thank you for helping with your experience with the TI4.


Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi again Edi.
I'm not sure, but I think I rounded the end on the air bleed- screw
with a file. I can check it to morrow. But I think it's not that important, rounded or not
And how is the work with the new camshaft going?

CS


----------



## e.picler

Hello CS!
I'm almost done with the lathe work. Unfortunately, the belt of the motor from the lathe broke. I will order another one tomorrow.

Until I wait for the belt, I will machine the lobes on the blank.

I think I will finish the camshaft by Saturday or Sunday.

Regarding the air bleed screw, I will make a 45 degree angle at the end. 

Tks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi to all!
The new camshaft blank is ready for the lobes.





I'm really confused about how to use the lobes table bellow. For exemple cylider #1 Exaust closed 0 degrees Exaust open 130 it does not form the 50 angle within lobe flanks





Can anyone help me with that? 
I don't remember how I figure that out for the old camshaft because I did a program on Mastercam to generate the G code and I don't want to use it again.

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

An update on the camshaft issue.
Reading the instructions with very close attention, I found what I was doing wrong.
It had to do with how to start the cutting of the first lobe. I was doing it backwards.
After having the understanding on how to start the machining, strictly following the table, I have cut the lobes.



The photo bellow shows the correct and the wrong camshaft. The one on the botton (black end) is the correct one. Please observe that the lobes are inverted



Still missing to grind the ends of the bushings bearing. I will do that tomorrow

Cheers,

Edi


----------



## johnmcc69

Looking good Edi! Not too long before the first "pop".

 John


----------



## e.picler

Hi John!
Yes, almost there! 
I have finished the camshaft today ant tested it on the engine. It seems to be OK.
Tomorrow I will install the distributor and try to staTI4 again but, first I will machine a starting tool. I have purchased a OneWay bearing 5X9X9 which will be installed in a small shaft with a pocket in one end for the bearing and use a battery drill bit machine.
I have tried to use a Dremel machine with a pulley as per the project however, it did not work not enough power.

Tks,

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi Edi.
How is things going reg. The TI4? Do you have any updates? 
Best regards.
CS


----------



## e.picler

Hi CS!
Thanks for asking. 
I did not have much time to deal with the TI4 lately.
Im still struggling to make it start running. It shows good signs to start (puffing) however it does not run. I just remove the head yesterday because I observed that the cylinder 2 and 3 where getting too much oil on the head causing the spark plug to be too wet and blocking the spark.







Im guessing that I filled with too much oil because I have changed the design of the oil pan, I made it flat on the bottom.
I will also check if there is any valve liking, as I dont have a vacuum pump, I will try with compressed air. 



How are starting yours? As mentioned on my last post I had to make a starting device with a Oneway bearing. The Dremell did not work with a pulley and a Oring 







Tks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi to all!
I have checked the valves for liking and found some was not sealing well, so I decided to refinish the valves heads and valves seats on the head.





This photo shows how I set the grinding on the lathe.Here I'm dressing the grinding stone. For the valves, I just set to 45 degrees





Using the same setup for the valves, I also reground the tool to make the seats on the head in order to copy exactly the same angle on the valves.




Unfortunately the TI4 insists in not run. It only puffs. I double checked the cam timing as well as the distributor. Everything seems to be correct. I have set the distributor around 30 degrees advanced as per Kelly instructions.

Any idea what should be wrong?

I suspect that maybe Im using too low RPM to start (1300), Kelly recommend to use a Dremell with a pulley with not more than 0.5 in diameter touching the Fly Wheel.
Im using a battery drilling machine with a Oneway bearing  because the Dremell had no power to move the fly wheel.

The cylinders seem to have good compression

Some hints from the fewllows here, would be great apreciated.

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## stevehuckss396

If the plugs are gapped too wide the spark might be zooming every where but to the plug. Try about a .010 gap in the plugs.

Check the timing with a timing light. You would be shocked how far off you can be checking by turning by hand.

Start with the carb screw closed all the way and slowly open until it starts to pop. You'll get it going.


----------



## e.picler

stevehuckss396 said:


> If the plugs are gapped too wide the spark might be zooming every where but to the plug. Try about a .010 gap in the plugs.
> 
> Check the timing with a timing light. You would be shocked how far off you can be checking by turning by hand.
> 
> Start with the carb screw closed all the way and slowly open until it starts to pop. You'll get it going.



Hello Steve!
Thanks for your hints:thumbup:
Yes, the gaps on the plugs are bigger than .010. I will set them to .010
I'm not familiar with the timing light. How do I perform that test? Is there any device for that?
I will also follow your advice for the carb.
This project, the TI4, has been a good exercise before putting the hands on your Demon V8 I got the plans from you.

Thanks again!

Edi


----------



## stevehuckss396

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TE46SY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

red and black clips go to a 12 volt source. The other clip goes around the plug wire on cylinder #1. When the #1 cylinder fires the light will flash. If you have a mark on your crankshaft at the point where that piston is at top dead center you will see where the mark is at the time it fires. Other marks can be made at 10, 20, 30 degrees before top center so you can tell where it is firing.

Also check to see that the rotor is in the correct place when trying to fire. If it's too far off it could be firing over to an adjacent cylinder sometimes.

There is so much to getting an engine. Take your time and dont loose hope. You'll find something.


----------



## e.picler

Hi Steve!
OK. Now I know what is a Timing Light, my Dad owned a car repair shop when I was a kid (many years ago) and I remember him using one of that,   branded Bosch with analogic advance display. I know that as stroboscopic pistol/gun. My limited English caused the doubt.

I got even more confused because the new CDI has a led which the manufacturer calls Timing Light.
I checked the price locally and found to be around US$ 50,00. I will buy one because I have a couple more engines projects on the way which I already have the plans and can be a good investiment.
-	Peewee casting kit
-	Demon V8  your design
-	Mastiff casting kit
-	Four-cylinder boxer

I really liked your hints/suggestions. Good ones, I will follow them.

Thanks again for your help.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi to all!
Yes Yes It Run....! It Run....!

I made the angle marks on the fly wheel for ignition timing as suggested by Steve.




I also started with the fuel needle fully closed and opening 1/4 turn step.
Another change was using the Dremell with a pulley and a bigger O-ring.
I still did not get constant running but I think it just a matter of fine tuning the carb and the ignition timing.

https://youtu.be/y7Y1k4Q5WEo


https://youtu.be/y7Y1k4Q5WEo


Unfortunetly one valve adjustment screw got jamed by the pushrod and broke the threaded tip of the camshaft where the distributor gear is attached



I already fixed it by making an insert to the end of the camshaft. Basically, I made an internal 2.5mm thread to the broken end of the camshaft and then one threaded 2.5mm pin and fixed it with Loctite. Using the same set up for the internal thread, I turned the 3mm guide and the 2.5mm thread for the distributor gear. I hope it is stiff enough and stands for job.

In Spite of the accident with the camshaft, I am so HAPPY because the TI4 gave me hope that it can RUN...

TKS,

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi Edi.
Nnnnnice! Good to see it running. Happy for you. I wonder how could that nut make it down in to the timing gears 

CS


----------



## Herbiev

Well done. Great work.


----------



## stevehuckss396

Stay at it! it will come around.


----------



## e.picler

Thanks CS, Herbiev and Steve!

To avoid another accident getting the valve screw and pushrod jamed, I decided to modify the pushrod and made new ones.
A added a bigger diameter on the end that the valve screw seats on. The pictures bellow explain better than my limited English vocabulary





It provided more area for the screw to travel when the pushrod moves up and down.



I will try to run the TI4 today again. Fingers crossed!!!!!
Tks,
Edi


----------



## Stieglitz

Hi Edi, Congratulations what a great result,thank you for sharing.
Cheers
Allen.


----------



## Cogsy

Looking forward to the result Edi - it's looking great!


----------



## e.picler

Hi to all!
As planed, I assembled the new pushrods (it worked very well) then did another run test. This time it ran better but still does not stabilize, as you remove the dremell it dies.

I suspect that something is wrong on the carburetor.

As I still did not make the radiator, installed the water pump and did the water circulate thru a can. 

Last attempt on video bellow

https://youtu.be/aI1pjg7uWYM

Edi


----------



## Mechanicboy

e.picler said:


> I suspect that something is wrong on the carburetor.



The fuel tank is too low under the carburator hence it's difficult to such the fuel into carburator. 

See picture..


----------



## e.picler

Hi Jens!
Thanks for your recommendation. I also though it could be a problem so, I raised the tank above the carburetor (the video you cannot see it).
Last night I unassembled the carburetor and I think I found at least a mistake.
The end of the Spray Bar is too loose into the barrel hole. The plans calls for tight fit I guess as it has the same diameters. See the picture of the plan bellow.



When I turned the Spray Bar I did not pay attention to this detail and it turned to have too much clearance. The pictures bellow shows the excessive clearance.





Due to the excessive clearance does not produce the vacuum necessary into the Spray Bar chamber to such the fuel (I GUESS).

I will machine another spray bar today and hope it correct the problem.

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## Mechanicboy

If there is air leakage, there is not possible to suck fuel into the carburator. You can set a o-ring as sealant against air leakage past main needle in spraybar. Also you must change the constuction of the spraybar/needle assembly to add o-ring as sealant. And make the clearance between carburator body and rotor tight as possible and rotate free with less airleakage. The opening A must be smaller before air is entered into the rotor house and from rotor house is the opening B larger to create vacuum under idling to suck the fuel. See at the  picture.. B must be a bit open while the A is closed when you are checking all is correct. The airscrew at carburator house is to regulate more or less air to regulate vacuum in the rotor house then the amount of fuel is regulated to a correct air/fuel mix under idling. Air screw is same as to "increase" or "decrease" A opening.


----------



## e.picler

Hello Jens!
Thank you very much for your drawings and explanations, it is being very useful to understand the principles of the carburetor.

This carburetor design already has proven to work, a couple of guys here built the same engine and it is running. I may have done something wrong during the machining process.

I have made a new Spry Bar correcting the excessive clearance between the Barrel hole and the tip of the spray bar. 



It is a little better but insists in not stay running when I remove the Dremell from the flywheel.

Next, I will recheck the carburetor parts to the drawings specs.
Also I tough to verify the timing of the camshaft. Sometimes it seem to run on only 3 cylinders.


Thanks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi!
I found a problem on the Carb Barrel. The hole was .3mm (,0118'') off center. It caused a situation on the idle position the hole barrel on the bottom side of the throttle diameter was almost closed.

I made a new Barrel and did a run test again. I got it running constantly but still not responding to throttle. See the video bellow.
https://youtu.be/bhP97E-xj0s

It is very tricky and scary to drill a very small hole 0.4mm (.016&#8217;&#8217 and not breaking the drill bit.



One step at a time. I will get there!

The plans does not have the drawing for the fuel tank.
*CS, what is the size of the tank you did for yours (diameter and lenght)?*,* also how high is it in relation to the carb?*

Thanks,
Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi Edi.
I'm a little buissy right now but I will take a messure later.
Your TI4 runns nice on full throttle:thumbup: I'm sure you will have the issue with the idling solved.
Happy for you.
CS


----------



## Cogsy

Sounds great Edi - congrats! You'll have it tuned up in no time I'm sure.


----------



## e.picler

Thanks Cogsy!

CS, no problem, take your time no rush. I will touch on the tank and the radiator after I have the carburetor working well.

I have removed the head to check the valves and take a look on the pistons head and observed that only the exhaust valve had carbonization, see the picture bellow. Is it normal or is it an indication of a problem? On a car engine both valves show carbonization.





What could be the problem for not idling and not responding to the throttle?

I think the best thing to do is to make a complete new carburetor. The question on the air is. Is the problem on the caburetor?

CS, did you also had problems to get your TI4 running accordingly?


Thanks,

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi again Edi.
I think I made the tank a little to big L=75x40mmOD and wall tickness 0,4mm. If I had to make it over(Taking too much space I think)  50x30mm would have been OK.
CS


----------



## crankshafter

Edi 
Here is som pictures.

CsView attachment 20180516_085422.jpeg
View attachment 20180516_084424.jpeg


----------



## e.picler

Hi CS!
Thank you very much for the information and the pictures.

I observed that the inlet tube on the spray bar is bigger than the plans calls for (1/16'' I'm assuming it is OD). What is the diameter you have used?
I also noticed on the video that Kell used a bigger diameter as well.

Thanks again for all your help.

Edi


----------



## canadianhorsepower

e.picler said:


> Hi!
> 
> (diameter and lenght)?[/I][/B],* also how high is it in relation to the carb?*
> 
> Thanks,
> Edi



Love this project:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

where can I get plan for it ????


----------



## e.picler

Hi luc!
Thanks for giving a like:thumbup:

It still not running properly I must have done something wrong on the carburetor. A couple of fellows here already built it and runs very well.

You can get the plans here http://www.burleighmachine.com/engine-plans.html

TKS,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello to all!
Good news to share with you all. I'm very happy!!!!!
I got some progress with the TI4 carburetor. Now it started to respond to throttle. Still not 100% but good improvement achieved.

The result came after making another Carb Barrel (third one). This time I payed very very close attention on drilling the venturi hole on the barrel and the fitting tolerance of the barrel OD and the Carb hole.

Take a look at the result on the video bellow?
https://youtu.be/h7yhtEhm3ys


Hey, how do I do to make the video apear here not only the link?

Thanks,

Edi


----------



## stevehuckss396

Way to go buddy! You have just learned what many engine builders already know. When you complete an engine and it's ready to start, you are about 85% done with a few weeks to go!


----------



## Cogsy

Sounding great Edi. With the old forum software the youtube links couldn't be the type with the split in youtube as in : youtu.be. Not sure if it's the same in this software, I'll try it out for you


Ok, that works as expected - I clicked on the link you posted, then copied and pasted the youtube address it took me to (which is different to your link).


----------



## e.picler

Cogsy said:


> Sounding great Edi. With the old forum software the youtube links couldn't be the type with the split in youtube as in : youtu.be. Not sure if it's the same in this software, I'll try it out for you
> 
> 
> Ok, that works as expected - I clicked on the link you posted, then copied and pasted the youtube address it took me to (which is different to your link).


----------



## e.picler

Hi Steve! Thanks. Yes, you are wright. I was so afraid/scared thatthe TI4 would not run. The satisfaction to see it running and hear it roar is indescriable. This is my first engine and project ever.
Hi Cogsy! Thanks for your help.

The video bellow is a test to see how it works


Today is Saturday so I have almost all day to try more improvements and than to start on the radiator.

Thank you very much for all the help, suggestions and advises I got from the great members here.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi to all!
I just wanted to share with you all a video about an engine made out of junk/scrap without any accuracy at all. Almost everything came from scraped DVD players. The cylinder and piston came from a refrigerator compressor. What amazed me is that it works. By the explanations, the guy evidencies not have any knowledge about some 4 stroke engine principles.
It is amazing what a person can do when having determination.

Take a look on the video you will be surprised. How came it runs!!!


Tks,

Edi


----------



## ozzie34231

I don't understand the language, but it appears to be running on fumes?


----------



## e.picler

Hello Ozzie!
That is correct it is running on gasoline fumes. The language is Portuguese and he is explaining that the parts used to build the engine came from DVD player, kichen stove and other house applaiances.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello fellows!

I'm still struggling to get better running condition on the eTI4. It runs only at high rpm and does not stay running.
Reviewing the Kelly instructions, he indicates to use Coleman with WD-40 10%mix for break-in and 5% after that.

My questions.
- Why to use Coleman fuel instead of Gasoline?

- I'm using air plane piston engine gasoline (high octane).

- Is it good or bad for this engine?

- What about regular car gasoline?

I was reading some articles about high-octane gasoline and I have learned that it is more difficult to explode to avoid pre ignition on high compression rate engines.

According to my calculations, it has 5.3/1. Bore diameter .375 stroke .500 and gap on TDC .0945.

Is the fuel I'm using causing this situation? I already rechecked the carburetor and all dim. are to the drawing specs.

Any help is greatly appreciated

Edi


----------



## stevehuckss396

No Edi, the high octane fuel wont cause that problem. I run 110 octane and can get idles under 1000 rpm (i think). Where is your ignition timing set?


----------



## kuhncw

Hi Edi,

Your 4 cylinder is very nicely done.  Sounds great.

Chuck


----------



## e.picler

Hi Steve!
I have set the timing according to Kelly instructions. The distributor is set to 30 degrees before TDC. I have purchased the timing lamp as you recommended.
Please see the instructions bellow.






Tks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Thank you Chuck!
It is not running properly yet. I will not give up easily.

Edi


----------



## stevehuckss396

Well Edi the only thing I can think of is. . . maybe the engine is still to tight to run at lower rpm. maybe some run time to loosen things up will result in a slower running engine.


----------



## canadianhorsepower

e.picler said:


> Hi luc!
> Thanks for giving a like:thumbup:
> 
> It still not running properly I must have done something wrong on the carburetor. A couple of fellows here already built it and runs very well.
> 
> You can get the plans here http://www.burleighmachine.com/engine-plans.html
> 
> TKS,
> 
> Edi


just ordered one set thanks


----------



## kuhncw

Hi Edi,

One thing that will help these little engines run slower is a large diameter flywheel.

I have a set of Kelly's drawings for the little four cylinder and see the flywheel is 1.9 inches OD. 

I put a 2.75 inch diameter flywheel on my Silver Bullet and that really helped the low idle.   The original flywheel was 2.17 inches diameter.

You could turn up a steel ring and Loctite it to your existing flywheel for a trial run.

Chuck


----------



## e.picler

Hello Steve!

Bingo!! After reading your comment, I spent some time in front of the TI4 just thinking what could be wrong, then I checked how free it was spinning manually turning the flywheel.

Steve, you were right!!!

I found that on TDC it was loose however on the position the piston   was sliding on the liner, it was really tight. Without thinking too much, I removed the spark plug and put a couple of oil drops thru the spark plug hole and turned the flywheel by hand then with the Dremel.

My conclusion was that the oil on the crankcase was not reaching the piston skirt so, I added more oil to it (almost doubled the volume) and span the flywheel with the Dremel again.

It ran a lot more loose. And the result you can see on the videos bellow.


After a little more fine tunning on the carburetor. Better response to throttle


*Thank you Steve. Getting advises from experienced people makes a difference*

I also observed that if the TI4 gets to hot, it starts getting stuck again, my understanding is that the piston expands different than the liners and cause that situation. The temperature of the water on the can was about 80 degrees C 176F

Well, it is time to start the Radiator and check if it runs cooler.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello Cuck!
I think your suggestion is good thanks, but I don't have much room to increase the flywheel diameter due to the water pipe getting into the block.
Anyway, I will check how much I can go.

Edi


----------



## Jamie Barton

Fantastic build Edi, amazing its your first engine. I'm still not brave enough to tackle the crankshafts for multi cylinder engines but I really like the look of the tiny inline 4.


----------



## Johno1958

Wow, first engine Edi.
You have got some very good skills already. I struggled with my engine and it is a drop in the bucket compared to your creation.
Wow.....
John


----------



## johnmcc69

Glad to see you have a runner Edi! Just a little tuning now.
 Nice work!

 John


----------



## Cogsy

It's coming along very nicely Edi. Very nice build!


----------



## MUUTOR

Parabéns! Excelente trabalho.



e.picler said:


> Hello everybody.
> I got able to do some more work done this week. Still on the block.
> As I received the boring head I ordered few weeks ago, I was able to finished the liners holes and water jackets. The tool showed to be very precise holding the dimensions and easy to adjust. Photos ahead!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Counterbore operation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next operation was the water jackets.
> I tried to do it on the lathe, however I did not feel safe with the setup, so I had to use the traditional dividing table and a grooving mill.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is where I'm so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No internal parts done so far. The head still need all the holes.
> 
> Thanks.
> Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hi to all!

Thanks for the words Jamie, John1958, John69 and Cogsy.

It is running better but not yet the way I would like. For now, it is OK latter on I plan to make a new carb and see what I get.


I just started the radiator. It gave me a lot of work to make the bottom and top caps removing a lots of material to provide the internal space. It reminded me machining the crank case and the bottom of the block.


It is almost finished, missing only the brass components (Cap, spouts)








































If I get some time today I will turn the cap and spouts.

Thanks for following this building.

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi Edi.
Wery nice work[emoji4] 
Are you using aluminum?  
Not having had time in the shop for a couple of weeks. House maintennance=summer here on the northern part of the planet earth.

CS


----------



## Cogsy

Radiator looks very impressive. How are you sticking it all together without leaks? I see most people use brass so it can be all soldered up but yours looks like aluminium. I've purchased a cheap aluminium PC radiator that looks surprisingly scale-like but haven't worked out how to install a fill point/cap in the ali, so if your methods works I'll likely copy.


----------



## e.picler

Hello CS and Cogsy!

Yes, the material is aluminum highly recommended due to its heat dissipation properties.

According to the instructions from Kelly, TI4 Designer it is glued with 5 minutes epoxy.

I have not tested it yet for leaking. I still need to glue the bottom end upper caps then I plan to fill it up with water and apply a  very little pressure (during the running condition there is not much pressure inside the radiator or almost none, only liquid circulation.

I was able to machine the spouts and the cap this weekend and they are all glued.

Tks,
Edi


----------



## e.picler

MUUTOR said:


> Parabéns! Excelente trabalho.



Hi MUUTOR! Thank you!
Are you Brasilian? Where are you located?

Tks,

Edi


----------



## nel2lar

Edi
I am very impressed with your tiny 4. Your crankshaft was very impressive and I saw something that might be another method that looked very effective. The video is: 
Enjoying your build.
Nelson


----------



## e.picler

Hi Nelson!

The TI4 is a very enjoyable project and look nice as well. You got to be prepared to deal with a very small parts.

I really liked the video thanks for sharing. Very interesting method. I only did not understand why he did not use the tailstock to align the journals once he did the center holes. I barely understood what he was saying, the audio was poor and he has a different accent. My English is not that good.

It is amazing how good the tool was cutting, looks like he is cutting butter. Is the material aluminum? It does not seem to be steel.

Tks,
Edi


----------



## nel2lar

You are right it is aluminium and I believe that is the reason for not using the tail stock. But cutting like he did held everything up close to the head or chuck which takes a lot of the vibration out of it. The most impressive thing to me was how he did his throw. Emergency collets are very special because they can be bored to any size or as in this case to any position. Joe is from Texas USA and I understand the language difficulty, it is a damn shame that we have so many words for the same thing. It's like a metric and SAE discussion I  got in and should have let alone. I just wish the world could come up with a system we all could use and when a part measuring XXX we all know what it means. It should not be that hard. I love your build and the tiny built with CNC is almost got me wanting one for my own.
Good job and I'll be watching as you finish up.
Nelson


----------



## Cogsy

nel2lar said:


> I just wish the world could come up with a system we all could use and when a part measuring XXX we all know what it means. It should not be that hard.


Actually this has already been done for almost the entire world - we call it 'Metric' . There are still 3 countries that refuse to use it though...

(Sorry, couldn't resist)


----------



## e.picler

Hey Cogsy!
Are living in a Metric Country?

If I'm not wrong when Reagan was the president of USA, he issue a document changing the imperial system to metric but it was never implemented.
I worked for a USA company (saw chain manufacturing) here in Brazil for 23 years and I never got used to Inch, Feet, Yard, Miles..... Metric is a lot easier 

Once I visited the branch of the company in Canada and realized that they have both system for exemple, on the road signs it shows numbers in Metric and Imperial (Km and Miles).

I did not know about Emergency Collets.

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello to all!
Radiator is finished. Shroud installed.





















This video shows the machining of the top side of the radiator shroud with 10mm flat end mill


Here machining the botton side of the shroud with 5mm flat end mill


Next I will make a new carburator.

Tks,

Edi


----------



## e.picler

Hello to all!
Little more progress on the TI4.

I started the new carburetor. As said before, I'm not satisfied with the performance so, I decided to make another carburetor.
For this time, I decided to change the way it was machined. The original drawing the dimensions depart from the side and the bottom of the body, so I changed it to use the centerline as the coordinate zero (X0, Y0). With the change on the machining strategy, I did almost all operations on the milling machine using a small rotary head.
Next operation will be cut to the final length and drilling/turning the venturi hole.

Here are some pictures that explain better how I did it. (a picture tells more than a thousand words)
 First I machined a blank on the lathe then cut the central body on the milling machine





Cut the central body





Tapping the bleading and idlle screws holes





On this operation I drillled the spray bar and the barrel hole and finished with the reamer and tapped the spray bar hole so both holes are on the same center line.





Also started on the base for the engine. The plans call for aluminum but I decided to use wood. It is very hard wood and heavy. I will provide two pockets on the bottom side for the CDI and battery 










Project almost finished. 

Edi


----------



## crankshafter

Hi again Edi.
Wery nice work[emoji38][emoji4].
CS


----------



## johnmcc69

Beautiful work! I really like the wood base.

 John


----------



## Cogsy

That wood base suits it very nicely Edi. Looks like a work of art!


----------



## e.picler

Hello to all!

I was able to get some more work on the TI4.
I have fixed the engine to the wooden base and built the gas tank.
Because the base is very thick, it was not possible to screw the posts thru the bottom of the base. I split the post into two parts and use a wood screw internally then an internal thread to screw the post. Please see the photos you will understand what was done.


----------



## e.picler

The only thing missing was the gas tank. I used a tube with 0.3 wall thickness. The two ends was a brass turned to the tube outside diameter with a small recess to fit the internal diameter of the tube then soldered it with tin.













For the tank posts, I had to eliminate the internal thread on the bottom side and added a small allen screw.




Next, the last work on this engine project, I provided two pockets on the bottom surface of the base to accommodate the CDI and the battery holder. It gave a very clean layout to the engine.








TKS,

Edi


----------



## stevehuckss396

nicley done edi!


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## e.picler

I have spent a several hours trying to get a better carburator response. I remade the carburator 3 times and could not get better result than this.


So I'm considering the project finished.




















I am very grateful to all that helped me, giving tips and advises during the construction of this little engine.

This was my very first engine/project. The TI4 being so small was a big challenge but on the other hand I had the opportunity to develop some skills that will be very useful for the next projects.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH TO ALL, especially the ones that followed this thread.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	













Next project will be the PeeWee V4 from Bob Shores

See you all on the next thread.



Edi


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## johnmcc69

Very clean & tidy layout Edi, a great job!

 John


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## nel2lar

Edi
Very nice engineering solution on your stands. Very nice build, very impressive.
Nelson


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## Cogsy

Very nicely done Edi. I can't wait to see your work on the Peewee.


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## natalefr

Great job !


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## kuhncw

Edi, your engine, radiator, and stand are all very nicely done.  The engine sounds great!

Chuck


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## davidyat

Ed, if you could ever make it to the USA and bring your projects to the NAMES Expo near Detroit, I'm sure everyone there would love to see your work. I was there this year and was awestruck at the work of better machinists than I'll ever be.

David


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## minh-thanh

Very nice !  Congratulations ,.


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## e.picler

Thank you very much Jhon, Steve, Nelson, Cogsy, Natale, Chuck, David and Minh Thanh for the kind words.
I got lots of help from great people from here.

This my first finished engine project.
Do I need to post it on the Fiished Projects Forum/Section?

I already started the PeeWee engine. The block is finished. I will start a thread this week with detailed photos.

Thanks,

Edi


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## natalefr

You started Cox PeeWee ?


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## stevehuckss396

natalefr said:


> You started Cox PeeWee ?



Not a Cox. There is a V4 called Peewee that was designed by Bob Shores.


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## agmachado

Very nice Edi !!!

Cheers,

Alexandre Machado


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## Cleuber

Boa noite, alguem poreia indicar algum site para cmprar o projeto de construcao do motor 4t?


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## e.picler

Olá Cleuber! Hello Cleuber!
Por favor verifique nesse link. Please check on this link site.








						Tiny Inline 4
					





					www.burleighmachine.com
				



Thanks,

Edi


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## Cleuber

Alguem sabe aonde posso conprar o proketo desse motor


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