# Drip Oiler--with a secret--



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

I have been wanting to build a couple of oilers for my Kerzel engine, and today was the first chance I got to think about it very much. I want to be able to control the flow of oil, shut it off when the engine is setting idle, and have them easy to fill. I didn't want to use Loctite because it apparently will damage the clear vinyl tubing. I already have a couple of #10-24 shcs. drilled out and acting as bearing retainers/oilers on the engine, so these will Loctite onto the head of the screws. (Loctite won't damage the metal, only the clear vinyl) These plans are very adaptable to any engine, and the fact that there is some very definite control for the oil flow, and a way to shut it off if required are a bonus. If you like these plans, feel free to download them and use them, and if you do, a karma point would be much appreciated.---Merry Christmas.---Brian






View attachment ASSY OF OILER.PDF


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

Here is the most innovative part--the base with the holes for oil flow and a needle valve.





View attachment OILER BASE.PDF


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

The cap----
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




View attachment OILER TOP.PDF


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

And of course, the needle valve. (I've got to get rid of that box of 100 #2-56 screws somehow!!!!)





View attachment #2-56 SHCS X 0.5 INCH LG-MODIFIED..PDF


----------



## Peter. (Dec 23, 2010)

Very elegant!


----------



## Shopguy (Dec 23, 2010)

Brian 
Somehow my reply didn't post. 
Very innovative. Filing for future reference. Thanks for posting.
Ernie


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

I've just discovered that a 4 flute 1/2" endmill held in the tailstock chuck makes a perfect sized flat bottom hole in a peice of brass held in the lathe.-On re-reading this post it looks rather inane, but I am talking about the flat bottom holes which the clear tubing set into.


----------



## Ed T (Dec 23, 2010)

Does there need to be a provision to let air into the top as the oil drains out the bottom, or will there be enough leakage around the threads at the top?


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

Ed T  said:
			
		

> Does there need to be a provision to let air into the top as the oil drains out the bottom, or will there be enough leakage around the threads at the top?


Beats me!!!


----------



## CaptSensible (Dec 23, 2010)

Nice design, nice plans. Now I know what to to with all these extra bolts...


----------



## nfk (Dec 23, 2010)

Superb design!


----------



## jpeter (Dec 23, 2010)

Is it important to be able to see it driping?


----------



## Sleazey (Dec 23, 2010)

Nice design. Saved that in my plans folder.

Can you post a PDF version of the cap? The image you posted is certainly usable, but the high resolution of the PDF version will look better when printed, and my eyes need all the help they can get!

Thanks muchly!


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

Now, ain't that as cute as a bugs ear!!! I didn't have any short 1/4" shcs available, but will shorten a couple of long ones tomorrow. The needle valves work, tested by the old "blow your guts out method" while opening and closing the shcs that is now a needle. JPeter---I will assume that was a serious question.---No, its not important to see it dripping, in fact you can't. Those clear tubes are reservoirs to hold the oil while the engine is running.---You can see when the oil is running low and add more through the hole in the top where the 1/4" shcs goes. They look good on the engine, but time will tell if they are a true advantage, or just something to get bumped and knocked off.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

Sleazey  said:
			
		

> Nice design. Saved that in my plans folder.
> 
> Can you post a PDF version of the cap? The image you posted is certainly usable, but the high resolution of the PDF version will look better when printed, and my eyes need all the help they can get!
> 
> Thanks muchly!


Its been added.


----------



## 1hand (Dec 23, 2010)

Them are huge oil cups! Fill them up, and your good for days of running. :big:


----------



## jonesie (Dec 23, 2010)

they look good brian. how do you get oil to the cly. and wrist pin. does this ic have rings or o-rings. again they look good. jonesie


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2010)

jonesie  said:
			
		

> they look good brian. how do you get oil to the cly. and wrist pin. does this ic have rings or o-rings. again they look good. jonesie


I mix a bit of 2 cycle oil with the Naptha it runs for fuel to oil the cylinder. Its got Viton o-rings for piston rings. On this engine there aren't any provisions for oiling the wrist pin.


----------



## Deanofid (Dec 24, 2010)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> JPeter---I will assume that was a serious question.---No, its not important to see it dripping, in fact you can't.



That was a very pertinent question that Jim asked.  The reason normal drip oilers are made the way they are is so you *know* that what you want to get oil to is actually getting oil. They have a small port on the bottom that is open for viewing, and you can see the drip as it goes into the oil port. Without being able to see that you don't know if you are getting oil or not! 
By the time you realize that the oil level in your oiler is not going down, you will have been running your engine without oil for some time.

Also, a normal drip oiler usually has a snap valve which opens to the same preset adjustment flow each time you open it. You set it once, check the drip interval (which is easy to see), and lock it. It shuts off with a flick of the finger, and next time you open it, it is already preset to the place you had it last time you ran your engine. 

Those two important features have been eliminated here. They do look nice indeed, but seem to be a de-evolution of an already proven design.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 24, 2010)

Deanofid---I didn't know about all the stuff you posted. I wanted oil reservoirs that could be filled with oil, the level checked visually, and a means of controlling the oil flow. I achieved all that, so I'm quite happy with my design. I can see the benefits to the oilers which you are talking about, on large industrial type engines. For hobby engines with a 3/4" bore that are ran occasionally for display, my oilers will be just fine. If you don't like my cheap homemade oilers, I suggest you go down to the bank today, get out a wheelbarrow load of money, and go buy some of the fancy ones.----Brian


----------



## Dan Rowe (Dec 24, 2010)

Guys oilers were available with sight feed and plain. I just checked my 1923 industrial supply catalog and a plain brass oil cup 3/4" OD cost $.30. The same size oiler with a stop cock cost $.90. Then add on sight feed and a snap lever and the price is $1.25. This is taken from 4 full pages of oiler types and options. Then as now you get what you pay for.

I think Brian's design is much better than a plain cup or even a stop cock. As for repeatable settings the common way is to put a red line on the valve wheel so the operator has a visual clue as to where to set the valve for different operating conditions. 

Dan


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 24, 2010)

I got up early this morning amd made up a couple of knurled "handles" that are threaded and loctited onto my needle-screws. Looks a lot better and saves hunting for an allen wrench each time I want to open or close them. I will probably do something "fancy" for the top filler screws, just because I can. My good wife has just came downstairs and made noises about vacuuming and cleaning house for Christmas, so I think machining is over untill after Christmas. My wife has a slightly bad back, so I have the vacuuming duties.---On a side note, my old built in vacuum wasn't really doing its thing, so last month I sprung for one of those Dyson "ball" vacuums. Man, what a tremendous suckability those things have. First time I used it on our carpets I was horrified at how damn much dirt I'd been living in and wasn't aware of it.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 24, 2010)

Okay--House is cleaned up, mommy's gone out to buy a turkey, and I get to finish my oiler top plugs. I'm done!!! Tops are made from mild steel heated cherry red and dropped into some motor oil for "instant blackening". I love my cheap BusyBee knurling tool!!


----------



## jpeter (Dec 24, 2010)

You got that engine hit'n and miss'n yet? In the picture of the flywheel weights it looks like a lot of springege on the weights. Does it trip off at fairly desent rpm? I like mine running around 5 or 6 hundred rpm but some like theirs faster. Just wondering. If you don't have a tac you can get a feel for the rpm by touching your finger on the cam and counting the revs for a second. Of course you have to double that for the true reading.


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Dec 24, 2010)

Looks great Brian. Nicely done.


----------



## Deanofid (Dec 24, 2010)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Deanofid---I didn't know about all the stuff you posted.



I realize that. None of us knows everything.

[quoe]If you don't like my cheap homemade oilers, I suggest you go down to the bank today, get out a wheelbarrow load of money, and go buy some of the fancy ones.----Brian 
[/quote]

Kind of touchy about it, too, I see.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 24, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I realize that. None of us knows everything.
> 
> [quoe]If you don't like my cheap homemade oilers, I suggest you go down to the bank today, get out a wheelbarrow load of money, and go buy some of the fancy ones.----Brian
> 
> ...



And a Merry christmas to you too, my friend. Of course I am touchy about it. I designed and posted this oiler to be a benefit to members on this board. If you care to look at the other posts, you will see that others appreciate what I did. You are the one making statements about a "de-evolution of an already proven design." You are under no obligation to use it. Did you think that your derogotory comments were going to make me happy?? If you have nothing good to say, then don't look at my postings.


----------



## mklotz (Dec 24, 2010)

Gentlemen,

Please. Cool it. We don't want to have to lock any threads on Xmas.


----------



## jpeter (Dec 24, 2010)

These are cool but pretty cool too would be the double oiler for the mains. Think about some type of a saddle arrangement across the top with the oil reservoir in the middle. Wouldn't that be cool. One needle would feed both sides.


----------



## Deanofid (Dec 25, 2010)

Brian, sorry to have given offense.

Dean


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 25, 2010)

Dean---Lets let it go. Sometimes I am not the soul of sweet reason either. Like I said, Merry Christmas. peace on earth. Happy machining!!!----Brian


----------



## mklotz (Dec 25, 2010)

Thanks guys. I appreciate that.


----------



## Metal Butcher (Dec 25, 2010)

Hi Brian. I'm transferring this post to your post since it pertains to your thread topic, and was directed towards you.

Quoting Jasonb:

Brian if the con rod has enough metal in it you can drill along its length through the wrist pin bearing with a fine hole which terminates in a larger hole drilled part way down from the top of the conrod. This larger hole will act as a resovoir and feed oil down to the pin. The same method can be used on the big end as you can see on my zero-six which also has a small oil cup on the crank pin hole.

Jason


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 25, 2010)

By milling a shallow slot in my piston skirt and adding a thru hole directly over the wrist pin area, I can get it to line up with a drilled hole thru the small end of the con rod. This way a drip oiler positioned over the cylinder will provide oil which runs down the slot and thru the hole to the small end of the con rod, then thru the conrod small end to the wrist pin.


----------

