# QCTP for Myford lathe



## Nicolas

I have been wondering for a while if it was was worth the money to buy a QCTP for my ML7.
I had a look around and RDG tools have one and so do Myford, the only difference being that the Myford one has a "Myford" sticker on it and costs twice as much. At least, that is what I can see from the images.
Is there a difference between the two (apart from the sticker)?, I don't want to pay more money just to have a Myford sticker on it. I have heard that the tapping on the RDG QCTP is not straight and that the material is very weak, is this true?
Any help would be very much appreciated 
Thanks.


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## goldstar31

Frankly, I'd not bother with a QCTP but I would go for one of the following

Geo Thomas's 4 way tool post and his rear parting tool as in his Model Engineers Workshop Manual. Both can be made from mild steel lumps.

Martin Cleeves fabricated 4 way tool post and rear tool post. 

Jack Radford's ( the old KIWI) and his own QCTP- from steel sections

David Lammas's 3 way stuff - from the Chris Heapy website

By now you should be getting some information about your lathe.

More to come. My best wishes

N


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## Tin Falcon

> I have been wondering for a while if it was was worth the money to buy a QCTP for my ML7.


IMHO a QCTP is a great addition to almost any lathe. 




> I had a look around and RDG tools have one and so do Myford, the only difference being that the Myford one has a "Myford" sticker on it and costs twice as much. At least, that is what I can see from the images.



This part is often a difficult decision. It is unlikely the two are identical other than the label. Typically  the quality ones are made of quality known metal. the fit and finish is superior and the tools are heat treated to the the most from the material and extend the tool life. And there is quality checks prior to packaging. 
That said knowing the difference I purchased an import wedge style for my 9 x 19 lathe. as the price difference between import and Aloris (the local name brand Made in New Jersey USA) is 4- 6 times. 

so is the Myford better undoubtedly is it worth twice the money likely .
can you justify the added expense that is for you to decide. 

Hope this helps
Tin


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## deverett

I had been using a GHT 4 way toolpost and rear parting tool as Goldstar 31 suggested for many years. I was very happy with that system.  When A&R Precision offered their Myford pattern QCTPs, I succumbed to the temptation.  I wish I hadn't wasted my money.  When A&R offered the QCrearTP, I dug deep and got one.  Load of C..p.  The quality of the product is not in question, but the application compared to what I had been used to is.

The QCTP is nowhere near as rigid as the GHT turret, which in my opinion is the main disadvantage.  Once the turret is loaded with the 3 most used tools, indexing is faster than changing tools on the QCTP.  For other tools that were not commonly used, I had a stack of shims already made up for each tool, so very little time was lost in changing over.  I say 3 tools because I use a facing tool and that prevents the 4th tool slot being loaded.

I made 2 turrets.  The idea being one for brass/bronze tools and the other for steel/ferrous materials but because I could change the tools so quickly, I very rarely changed turrets.

There have been some claims that unused tools poking out of the turret are dangerous, but I didn't find any dangers.  For those that might be worried, Dave Lammas designed a 3 tool turret - triangular shaped obviously.

Sadly, I sold the 2 QCTPs otherwise I would go back to them.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## goldstar31

deverett said:


> I made 2 turrets. The idea being one for brass/bronze tools and the other for steel/ferrous materials but because I could change the tools so quickly, I very rarely changed turrets.
> 
> There have been some claims that unused tools poking out of the turret are dangerous, but I didn't find any dangers. For those that might be worried, Dave Lammas designed a 3 tool turret - triangular shaped obviously.
> 
> Sadly, I sold the 2 QCTPs otherwise I would go back to them.
> 
> Dave
> The Emerald Isle


 
Thanks Dave!

Several things can be added to what I regard as invaluable comment.
David Lammas designed the 3 way tool post to avoid claims of being injured. Actually, the drawings are still on the Clive Heapy site which gives the GHT arrangement as well.
Of course, I have one of those confounded QCTP's which I bought in a fit of( supply your own rude remarks, please)
Again, if the somewhat whopping lump for the GHT thing is not your thing, it is possible to make one up with three bits of flat stock and bolted up. Somewhere in 1953, Marin Cleeve wrote up 'Towards a better lathe' and showed a collection of ready tooled up tool holders on his shelf. For those who are into such things, Cleeve also had two motors to drive a ML7 one of which was a whopping 1HP. I digress- I'm old, I'm like that.
So back to Cleeve and I have Cleeve swing tool holder built to a modified one on his book Screwcutting in the Lathe and the original design which appears in fabricated form both in ME and Engineering in Miniature and- believe it or not Popular Mechanics. or Practical Mechanics. Anyway, I made it up out of cast iron- so there!

So let's take a gander at QCTP and ones for the impecunious ones. So back to the Kiwis- Nicholas- and GHT's old ( ?) made them and Jack Radford has how to make them or his version, in his book. JAR made a very clever Super 7 with-- elevating heads like the Murad Bormilathe. I digress yet again but I always wanted a Murad Antarctica because I was involved with the RAF Antarctic Flight way back in 1949.

But I digress- apologies.

The old Goldstar with the Flight at Hendon


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## Nicolas

Thanks all for the helpful advice, some very good points have been made 
The only reason I thought of a QCTP was for the parting blade (and the easy height adjustment too). I wasn't too keen on a rear parting tool holder as I have heard they get in the way on Super 7 lathes which have one T-slot more that the ML7 cross slide.
I had thought about making a QCTP but it is slightly too advanced for me at the moment unless I get a really good set of plans for one. 
For now, a simple 4 way tool post might be the best option for me, it won't take very long to make and is still 100x better than the silly clamp that comes on the ML7 lathes (in my opinion). 
Thanks again for all the good advice, if there is any more info I should know before making a decision please tell me (there is no rush)


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## Nicolas

I found this design, has anybody else made one of these or would recommend it?
http://www.swarfer.co.za/lathe/toolpost.php


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## goldstar31

Whoops, hang on! The GHT rear parting tool is nothing to do with being adjustable in height. They are capable of having the top section turned through 360 degrees to use one or other of the blades or being turned at 90 degrees - so that the blades are parallel to the lathe shears. With a bit of fiddling on the top bit, you can have one parting blade and one inverted tool. Perhaps you should have the Thomas book. 

Hint- you can get to the standard- but expensive Myford parting system with two tools. Not me but it exists

Cheers

N


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## ian99

Nicolas, by now you should be aware that RDG Tools acquired the Myford name and remaining assets about a year ago. In essence they are the same company. It is true that they are still sorting out the various websites but as far as I can tell the products are the same.
The RDG site shows "special offers" on Myford design QCTP and that may not be reflected in the old Myford site.
I purchased an RDG QCTP (Myford fit) over a year ago and it works fine.


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## Nicolas

ian99 said:


> Nicolas, by now you should be aware that RDG Tools acquired the Myford name and remaining assets about a year ago. In essence they are the same company. It is true that they are still sorting out the various websites but as far as I can tell the products are the same.
> The RDG site shows "special offers" on Myford design QCTP and that may not be reflected in the old Myford site.
> I purchased an RDG QCTP (Myford fit) over a year ago and it works fine.



Thanks,
Do you know if RDG is a chinese brand/company or English?


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## Tin Falcon

Nicholas;

It is apparent that the few folks that have have replied do not like and have had bad experiences with QCTP systems. 

QCTP systems are used in the USA every day in industry for there repeatability and ease to change  from one tool to another.  I ran a 5 HP cnc lathe for a year with good american made dorian brand tooling . It is reliable  it works. 
And I have and use Aloris tooling as well. Again it works as advertised.
I also have the A2Z cnc mini aluminum piston style. It works as well . 
if you have a choice the wedge style is better. 

Is all QCTP tooling excellent quality of coarse not. Does the import stuff work well for the money? IMHO in most cases yes.
My brother purchased supposed qctp for a mini lathe from a name brand importer. The same place his red mini lathe came from. In an attempt to use the holder I was so tempted to throw it across the room. it was anything but quick to change. 


QCTP systems are much used and much liked here in the USA. there have been many threads bout them and making them. 


I have not used RDG or myford products so can not make comments on them.

Tin


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## Wizard69

Nicolas said:


> Thanks all for the helpful advice, some very good points have been made  The only reason I thought of a QCTP was for the parting blade (and the easy height adjustment too). I wasn't too keen on a rear parting tool holder as I have heard they get in the way on Super 7 lathes which have one T-slot more that the ML7 cross slide. I had thought about making a QCTP but it is slightly too advanced for me at the moment unless I get a really good set of plans for one. For now, a simple 4 way tool post might be the best option for me, it won't take very long to make and is still 100x better than the silly clamp that comes on the ML7 lathes (in my opinion). Thanks again for all the good advice, if there is any more info I should know before making a decision please tell me (there is no rush)



There seems to be a lot of negativity in this thread in relation to QCTP.    I really don't know why, I find a decent QCTP to be an excellent addition to any lathe.    Of course you have to buy a half decent one, but in this world you always get what you pay for.  

I look at it this way, with a turret you will only have 3-4 tools on hand.    With a quick change tool post, you will have as many as you realistically need.    More so each tool holder will be preset for height so a tool change takes little time at all.   Carefully curate a selection of holders and you can cover your turning, cutoff, boring and whatever issues.   Nothing tricky is needed to use a cutoff blade or a boring bar either.  

Don't let anyone scare you off the idea of a QCTP, they can be very valuable when used as intended.   That doesn't mean they are suitable for every possible machining operation but like any lathe attachment it has to be suitable for the task at hand.


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## Tin Falcon

> Don't let anyone scare you off the idea of a QCTP, they can be very valuable when used as intended. That doesn't mean they are suitable for every possible machining operation but like any lathe attachment it has to be suitable for the task at hand.




Thanks for the positive post Wizard

Well put.
Tin


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## Wizard69

Nicolas said:


> I found this design, has anybody else made one of these or would recommend it? http://www.swarfer.co.za/lathe/toolpost.php


That is an interesting approach to quick change.  With a bit of searching you should be able to find several examples of DIY tool posts.  These guys have kits for an interesting approach to a QCTP: http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/.   I would have to think that other companies targeting hobbiest  would have their own tool post solutions.  

As to that tool post that you linked too, I would have two concerns.    One Is the need to bore to fairly tight tolerances.  The other is the probability that you will want or need to harden the tool holding blocks.  You could buy prehardened stock for the blocks.   My fear is that soft steel would take a set making use difficult.


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## Tin Falcon

> I had thought about making a QCTP but it is slightly too advanced for me at the moment unless I get a really good set of plans for one.



the piston style are doable.
http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/qctp/qctp-e.htm








And here is a guy (A member here ) making one for a Myford 7

http://peake-engines.com/quick-change-tool-post.php
The info is out there
Tin


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## goldstar31

At the risk of causing offence, let us take a long cold and objective look at Nicolas's purchase. There is nothing wrong with it but it is frankly and obsolete piece of kit dating back to World War 2 and perhaps earlier!
It was in Brit money a £25 effort- no more. I couldn't afford one but no matter.

His mill bit is one that was the successor to the vertical slide- and Rodney went out of business for reasons that we can guess. It was joined by Myford. End of story- like it or not and  that is what he has got. 

Fine, I have the slightly upmarket version in a Super 7 B- that has a box tied to it. Bluntly, it is now in its second lease of life because I hauled it out of near scrap -and reconditioned it. Nicholas is sitting with a ML7. Different ball park entirely. If he knackers the bearings on the spindle, he will be faced with the non availability of suitable Glacier bearings. Replacement will cost- if it can be done- an arm and a leg.
If he knackers the saddle casting  or the boring table it will end up as a constructive total loss. 

It is a machine to be cared for and not roughly handled  by trying to make it into a born again CNC machine. 

Years and years ago, these lathes were used, evaluated, modified and conclusions written down in tablets of stone. Many of these words were written by people for whom you are actually accepting because they could make engines which you are now trying to copy and saying- 'aren't they bloody marvellous' You, the experts of today, are unwilling to accept that the same men hadn't a clue about carbide and tool posts and whatever. They made the engines using tooling which I fondly am suggesting today.

Am I wrong? Oddly there was and is one guy who wrote much of it down. 
He wasn't an engineer  per se, he was a lot better off and well able to pick and choose. Bluntly, he chose a Myford 254. which is in a different league to either the ML7 or my Super 7. 

Summarising it all, if you want a production lathe buy one, if you want a nice lathe and accept its certain faults and sometimes limited capabilities, buy a little Myford.

Now if somebody wants to criticise or ban or whatever an old man who still knows how to use a lathe- that is their prerogative. So what?


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## Tin Falcon

Gee Goldstar  the guy asks about an accessory for a lathe and you bash his choice for a lathe. and then you ask to be banned . then you wonder why your advise is not respected. Hmmm
Tin


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## Nicolas

goldstar31 said:


> At the risk of causing offence, let us take a long cold and objective look at Nicolas's purchase. There is nothing wrong with it but it is frankly and obsolete piece of kit dating back to World War 2 and perhaps earlier!
> It was in Brit money a £25 effort- no more. I couldn't afford one but no matter.
> 
> His mill bit is one that was the successor to the vertical slide- and Rodney went out of business for reasons that we can guess. It was joined by Myford. End of story- like it or not and  that is what he has got.
> 
> Fine, I have the slightly upmarket version in a Super 7 B- that has a box tied to it. Bluntly, it is now in its second lease of life because I hauled it out of near scrap -and reconditioned it. Nicholas is sitting with a ML7. Different ball park entirely. If he knackers the bearings on the spindle, he will be faced with the non availability of suitable Glacier bearings. Replacement will cost- if it can be done- an arm and a leg.
> If he knackers the saddle casting  or the boring table it will end up as a constructive total loss.
> 
> It is a machine to be cared for and not roughly handled  by trying to make it into a born again CNC machine.
> 
> Years and years ago, these lathes were used, evaluated, modified and conclusions written down in tablets of stone. Many of these words were written by people for whom you are actually accepting because they could make engines which you are now trying to copy and saying- 'aren't they bloody marvellous' You, the experts of today, are unwilling to accept that the same men hadn't a clue about carbide and tool posts and whatever. They made the engines using tooling which I fondly am suggesting today.
> 
> Am I wrong? Oddly there was and is one guy who wrote much of it down.
> He wasn't an engineer  per se, he was a lot better off and well able to pick and choose. Bluntly, he chose a Myford 254. which is in a different league to either the ML7 or my Super 7.
> 
> Summarising it all, if you want a production lathe buy one, if you want a nice lathe and accept its certain faults and sometimes limited capabilities, buy a little Myford.
> 
> Now if somebody wants to criticise or ban or whatever an old man who still knows how to use a lathe- that is their prerogative. So what?





I didn't have many other options sitting here in New Zealand, I could in port a super 7 B but that would cost a fortune. I am very happy with my lathe, I think I got a very good deal. If I ever get the chance to buy a good super 7 I will take it.
If you dislike QCTP's that's okay, but don't go on about how bad my lathe is please.


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## werowance

i purchased an a2z quick change for my import at750 lathe/mill combo,  i will have to say the a2z is a bit cheap and the handle has already broken (easy fix to build a new one).  that said about the a2z brand,  i will have to say having a quick change is AWESOME,  it is so nice to set the center height on a few of your favorite cutting tools, lock them in place and put them in the drawer for when you need it.  just a quick turn of the new handle and drop it in place and go.  i really didnt realize how much better and important proper tool height adjustment was because i was to lazy to shim my tools most of the time before.  now my cuts look about 1000 times better,  when hogging i dont have near the bit hang up or dig in because of that and all in all i love a quick change system.  i just dont think ill go with a2z brand next time.  i think ill go with a phaseii brand.  

but i dont think you will be disapointed if you get one slightly better quality than the a2z brand if you have never had one before.

just my opinion though.


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## Charles Lamont

I started with a used ML7 but have had a Super 7 for the last (exactly) 40 years. I have a Myford 4-tool turret but it has never stayed on the lathe for long. I find the thing a complete pain. Something over 10 years ago I designed and made my own QCTP, and though I say it myself, it is a vast improvement. You can see it here: http://www.charleslamont.me.uk


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## fcheslop

It looks as if this is becoming a rather emotive subject.
From a personal point of view and as a user of Myford Lathes for over thirty years.The ML7 like any machine has its short comings yes the head stock bearings are no longer replaceable but there is a conversion kit to replace the white metal bearing agreed at a price.
When I worked in industry a quick change tool post was not a luxury fitting as time is money but in the home shop its not so important .
I now use either the original four way tool post and have made two three way post along the lines of the Lammas design and find they meet my needs
I cannot comment on the imported tool posts but believe the old adage that the price is soon forgotten when buying a quality tool holds true
Good luck with what ever you decide to buy or build
As to Myfords are they the best well no I don't think so by any means .They are a good bit of kit and very versatile but they priced themselves out of the market in my humble opinion and now that a lot of home shops also have a mill some of the advantages of the versatility became redundant
cheers


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## Swifty

Nicholas, there have been a few posts from members that still live in the dark ages and reminisce about the good old days, they are always right and everyone else is wrong. Times have changed a lot, you asked for advice about wanting a QCTP, lots of people seem to have used one on a myford with no adverse affects. It will certainly be better for setting tools up, and if you choose the correct design to either make or buy, there should be no need to machine material off existing components. Go for it!!!

Paul.


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## SeanG

I like my QCTP a lot, I had one of the 4-way rotating index TP's before and it was good, but everytime I needed to change a tool getting it on centre was a faff, and everytime I wanted to use a never before centred tool it was a shim searching fiddly faff. In all honesty I'd go out of my way to avoid changing the tooling, using a tool that was loaded that would do the job - just, rather than load up the correct tool

Now I change tool without a thought, its brilliant. First time a tool is used centering is a breeze, and when changing they go straight back on to centre (that'll be the QC part of QCTP  )

My time is the 'shop is limited and precious, I like to spend as much of it making swarf as possible and the QCTP gives more swarf time and less faff time.

I'd rate my RDG QCTP as my best accesory for the ML10 (so far hee hee)


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## Wizard69

Charles Lamont said:


> I started with a used ML7 but have had a Super 7 for the last (exactly) 40 years. I have a Myford 4-tool turret but it has never stayed on the lathe for long. I find the thing a complete pain. Something over 10 years ago I designed and made my own QCTP, and though I say it myself, it is a vast improvement. You can see it here: http://www.charleslamont.me.uk



Charles, that is one nice tool post!    Very innovative, is it all of your own design or did you incorporate elements from other tool posts.   The nice thing about this tool post is that it highlights that you don't have to follow the AXA designs of the big manufactures to get a very functional tool post.


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## gus

Nicolas said:


> Thanks all for the helpful advice, some very good points have been made
> The only reason I thought of a QCTP was for the parting blade (and the easy height adjustment too). I wasn't too keen on a rear parting tool holder as I have heard they get in the way on Super 7 lathes which have one T-slot more that the ML7 cross slide.
> I had thought about making a QCTP but it is slightly too advanced for me at the moment unless I get a really good set of plans for one.
> For now, a simple 4 way tool post might be the best option for me, it won't take very long to make and is still 100x better than the silly clamp that comes on the ML7 lathes (in my opinion).
> Thanks again for all the good advice, if there is any more info I should know before making a decision please tell me (there is no rush)



Hi Nicholas,
Gus is very much a beginner in turning and milling. Bought some very expensive QCTP for the two Leblonde Precision Lathes back in 1982.Was very useful and handy. 
After retiring in 2004,started building model steam engiines.Recalled how handy those QCTP were but could not afford to buy them.

Machining the dovetails really put me off. Six months later I gathered enough courage to make my own DIY QCTP.Harold Hall's article was very useful and self-explanatory and guided Gus thru making the QCTP.
Foto shows my second QCTP.Material cost is about US$10 for a length of square bar and flat bar.Bought the dove tail cutters from ArcEuroTrade.com.uk.
 Made my own turret tool post too but found it hard to shim cutters to dead centre height.Turret now retired and about to be recycled.

If you ever get started building your own DIY QCTP,the HMEM Forum members will help with good advice. Tin Falcon's QCTP Print is a very good one to DIY.


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## Charles Lamont

Wizard69 said:


> Charles, that is one nice tool post!    Very innovative, is it all of your own design or did you incorporate elements from other tool posts.   The nice thing about this tool post is that it highlights that you don't have to follow the AXA designs of the big manufactures to get a very functional tool post.



Thanks. I designed it without reference to other designs, but must have been influenced by things I had seen. I don't claim any originality, but I am not sure anyone had previously made the extended toolholder, which is now available for some commercial products.


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## martik777

Nicolas said:


> I found this design, has anybody else made one of these or would recommend it?
> http://www.swarfer.co.za/lathe/toolpost.php



I made a few similar to his design. They work very well and cost almost nothing to make, and you can customize them to hold multiple toolbits.  Add a quick release lever to facilitate 'quick changing' your holders. They may actually be more rigid than a typical QCTP due to the lack of overhang for the holder.

KRF sells a commercial version: http://www.krfcompany.com/


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## Nicolas

gus said:


> Hi Nicholas,
> Gus is very much a beginner in turning and milling. Bought some very expensive QCTP for the two Leblonde Precision Lathes back in 1982.Was very useful and handy.
> After retiring in 2004,started building model steam engiines.Recalled how handy those QCTP were but could not afford to buy them.
> 
> Machining the dovetails really put me off. Six months later I gathered enough courage to make my own DIY QCTP.Harold Hall's article was very useful and self-explanatory and guided Gus thru making the QCTP.
> Foto shows my second QCTP.Material cost is about US$10 for a length of square bar and flat bar.Bought the dove tail cutters from ArcEuroTrade.com.uk.
> Made my own turret tool post too but found it hard to shim cutters to dead centre height.Turret now retired and about to be recycled.
> 
> If you ever get started building your own DIY QCTP,the HMEM Forum members will help with good advice. Tin Falcon's QCTP Print is a very good one to DIY.




That's a very nice toolpost Gus.
Is the tool holder clamped against the tool post? could you provide a photo of the tool post with out the tool holder on it?
Thank you very much


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## gus

Hi Nicholas,
Requested fotos attached. The tool holder clamping is thru the cam operated piston activated by the top lever.

Male and female dovetails are not difficult to do as feared/imagined. Do avoid taking very light cuts as the cutter only rubs and cutting is very minimal. A medium hand feed will do but play by ear and ample coolant feed required.I use Tapmatic Oil.

I made 6 tool holders and more planned. The QCTP is slightly smaller than plan dimensions because of using on-hand material. Used 1 1/2" square bar instead of 2" bar. Feel free to choose size to suit Myford. My balcony machineshop
has no room/floor load capacity to take bigger lathes/mills or any more equipment.
Was lucky to be able to squeeze in a vertical bandsaw which is a great help."70 young" no longer able to manual hacksaw. Bought a Makita and DIY mount in plywood housing.With this bandsaw, I got ambitious building engines out
of bar stocks.


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## Nicolas

Thanks for the photos Gus, they are very helpful


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## Nicolas

Gus, you have a PM


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## gus

Hi Nicholas,
Fotos attached. Popcorn Engine and Rotary Table cutting brass balls.
I have no drawings for the RT which was made ----play by ear basis. The worm and wheel were bought locally. On Youtube,you could look up for simple worm-wheel cutting using lathe and a spiral tap. Good Luck.


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## Nicolas

Thanks for the photos Gus


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## necchiom

Good morning Nicolas. Because times ago I bought the RDG tools QCTP for my Super 7, but I guess the original Myford one is the same, my suggestion is to save your money and look around for a different design. I fond this very weak on stiffness: especially on parting; so, finally, I design and manufacture what is on the attached picture which is based on a simple but effective clamping system. I can provide you drawing... in mm obviously! Mose'


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## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Good morning Nicolas. Because times ago I bought the RDG tools QCTP for my Super 7, but I guess the original Myford one is the same, my suggestion is to save your money and look around for a different design. I fond this very weak on stiffness: especially on parting; so, finally, I design and manufacture what is on the attached picture which is based on a simple but effective clamping system. I can provide you drawing... in mm obviously! Mose'



Hi Mose,

I like the look and simplicity of your QCTP.  A copy of your drawing would be apreciated.

Re the original Myford QCTP, I agree with your comments.  At least with your design the toolholder is positively clamped ensuring acurate repeatablity.


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## necchiom

Here they are! Inside of the compressed file you will find 2D drawing (no tolerances are indicated on them, sorry!) and some photos I've got during manufacturing processes. Pictures could be useful for setting up your best manufacturing strategy. Good luck! Mose' 

View attachment MyfordQCTP.zip


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## BaronJ

Hi Mose,

Thank you very much for your kind response with the drawings.  They are great and explain things very well.  I note that you seem to have used aluminium for the main block.  I have a chunk of BMS that is almost the right size.  I do have a couple of questions though.

Was the small recess at the bottom of the dovetail needed or was it the result of carving out the meat before cutting the dovetail ?  Also why the 3mm holes behind the dovetail ?

Before anybody asks, yes I'm going to make one of these and yes I will take pictures.


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## necchiom

Hi Baron. First of all the main block and the tool holders are made on steel: I dissuade you to use aluminum! It is too soft.

Because the locking system is based on dovetail slightly deformation, the main purpose of the recess is to limit the contact surfaces just close to the dovetail 60deg angle. Last question: originally I though to put a small hard metal plaque in here. This is the reason of the 3mm threaded holes.
Hope my poor English is clear enough...
Cheers, Mose.


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## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Hi Baron. First of all the main block and the tool holders are made on steel: I dissuade you to use aluminum! It is too soft.
> 
> Because the locking system is based on dovetail slightly deformation, the main purpose of the recess is to limit the contact surfaces just close to the dovetail 60deg angle. Last question: originally I though to put a small hard metal plaque in here. This is the reason of the 3mm threaded holes.
> Hope my poor English is clear enough...
> Cheers, Mose.



Hi Mose,

Your English is just fine !  I thought that you had used aluminium because of the superb surface finish in your pictures.  I wish I could get that fine mirror finish on my work.  My mini mill just isn't ridgid enough.

Fine on the contact surfaces close to the dovetail.  Actually having looked more carefully at your drawings I can see where you have dimensioned it.

I will ignore those 3mm holes then.

OT: I have spent a little time vacationing in Italy in the past few years and really enjoy the scenery and the friendly people that I have met.  Musn't forget the wines, most excellent.

Thank you for answering my questions.

Seasons Greetings.  Have a good Christmas.


----------



## necchiom

"Buon Natale" (Merry Christmas) also to you! Mose'


----------



## gus

necchiom said:


> Hi Baron. First of all the main block and the tool holders are made on steel: I dissuade you to use aluminum! It is too soft.
> 
> Because the locking system is based on dovetail slightly deformation, the main purpose of the recess is to limit the contact surfaces just close to the dovetail 60deg angle. Last question: originally I though to put a small hard metal plaque in here. This is the reason of the 3mm threaded holes.
> Hope my poor English is clear enough...
> Cheers, Mose.



Hi Nicchiom,

You are right about not using aluminium,not even the hard grade.Some hobby 
machinist would shy away using steel. Given the good sharp cutting tools,bar stock steel is really not difficult to machine. The Dovetail cutting is a mystery
we have to go thru. After two female dovetails and two broken dovetail cutters,I have sort of picked up the know-how. 
QCTP made of aluminium will not last. The dovetail fit wears off. 

Todate I have made two QCTP.


----------



## necchiom

Merry Christmas Gus from cold Italy! Any picture of you art work? Mose'


----------



## BaronJ

Nicolas said:


> Thanks,
> Do you know if RDG is a chinese brand/company or English?



Hi Nicolas,

I didn't see a reply to your question.

RDG is a UK company based in Todmordon near Halifax West Yorkshire.  A lot of the stuff they supply comes from China and India.  They quite recently acquired the "Myford" brand name and the rights to their designs.  They are now selling Myford branded copies that are no longer UK made.


----------



## necchiom

"...They quite recently acquired the "Myford" brand name and the rights to their designs.  They are now selling Myford branded copies that are no longer UK made...."

Wow!! it's sound like a bad new for me... Who take care about my Super 7 spare part quality control now?!
BaronJ: what about Myford company? Is it in bad shape?
Regards, Mose'


----------



## gus

necchiom said:


> Merry Christmas Gus from cold Italy! Any picture of you art work? Mose'




Hi Necchiom,

Here is the second QCTP made from Model Engineer's Workshop Magazine.
It is about 2 year old now but no wear and tear as it was made of steel from scrap bin. Dimensions not as per drawing. Not a masterpiece but very useful.

Was visiting Ingersoll-Rand Compressor plant at Avellino and stayed at Basergno?.I think spelling wrong. Enjoyed the family restaurant food served with no menu to pick from. Left Avellino 3---4 kg heavier. Had to hang up my pants and climb in after all the good food-----fresh tomato sauce spagetti,a huge plate of tomato salad with olive oil and vinegar and steak and the cakes and ice-cream.Dinner was 8pm----11pm.
Was at the Vatican City to pray for the world. 

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!th_wav


----------



## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> "...They quite recently acquired the "Myford" brand name and the rights to their designs.  They are now selling Myford branded copies that are no longer UK made...."
> 
> Wow!! it's sound like a bad new for me... Who take care about my Super 7 spare part quality control now?!
> BaronJ: what about Myford company? Is it in bad shape?
> Regards, Mose'



Hi Nicolas,
The original "Myford" company no longer exists, though RDG is trading under the "Myford" name and has the remaining genuine stock.  They also say that they will supply spares and parts.  How good the quality of these are remains to be seen particularly in light of the current quality of foreign imports.


----------



## gus

BaronJ said:


> Hi Nicolas,
> The original "Myford" company no longer exists, though RDG is trading under the "Myford" name and has the remaining genuine stock.  They also say that they will supply spares and parts.  How good the quality of these are remains to be seen particularly in light of the current quality of foreign imports.




Hi Baron,

Some parts most likely M.I.C. and some M.I.I.  Genuine parts made in UK or EU will be priced out of the door.Very sad Myford Lathe Plant gone just like the Lister Engine Plant.

Received some M.I.C. Spotting Drills and very disappointed. They are just Tin-coated Stub Drills.The UK equivalent was with sharp points. These MIC drills came with mini chisel point and web thick/unthinned. Will use them after the mini spotting with EU spot drills.

Bought a set of Indian Make high quality 0.1mm incremental 6---12mm HSS drills and not cheap.


----------



## BaronJ

gus said:


> Hi Baron,
> 
> Some parts most likely M.I.C. and some M.I.I.  Genuine parts made in UK or EU will be priced out of the door.Very sad Myford Lathe Plant gone just like the Lister Engine Plant.
> 
> Received some M.I.C. Spotting Drills and very disappointed. They are just Tin-coated Stub Drills.The UK equivalent was with sharp points. These MIC drills came with mini chisel point and web thick/unthinned. Will use them after the mini spotting with EU spot drills.
> 
> Bought a set of Indian Make high quality 0.1mm incremental 6---12mm HSS drills and not cheap.



Hi Gus,
Yes its sad to say but all the good machine engineering expertise and manufacturing industry has all but gone in the UK.  I bought a set of German made drills, expensive but at least the quality was far better than the far eastern rubbish that gets palmed off on the unsuspecting nowadays.

Sadly a relative gave me a set of taps and dies for Christmas.  I say sadly because I've just binned the self same set that a neighbor gave me that seem to have been made from sugar coated toffee.  About the only good thing is I can reuse the plastic case they came in.

Hope you had a good Christmas.  Looking forward to the new year.  Lets hope its better than the last one.


----------



## gus

BaronJ said:


> Hi Gus,
> Yes its sad to say but all the good machine engineering expertise and manufacturing industry has all but gone in the UK.  I bought a set of German made drills, expensive but at least the quality was far better than the far eastern rubbish that gets palmed off on the unsuspecting nowadays.
> 
> Sadly a relative gave me a set of taps and dies for Christmas.  I say sadly because I've just binned the self same set that a neighbor gave me that seem to have been made from sugar coated toffee.  About the only good thing is I can reuse the plastic case they came in.
> 
> Hope you had a good Christmas.  Looking forward to the new year.  Lets hope its better than the last one.



Hi Baron,
All my children emigrated to Australia. Nellie and Gus(me) had a quiet Christmas and went to midnite mass to pray for the world.

Fishing was bad today but we had the excitement of about to land a biggy and the 30 lb line broke. Could have become my dinner. No worry.Tomorrow taking some friends out and hopefully fishing will be good.

As a Christmas Present I bought air tickets and hotel room for Nellie and both will spent Chinese New Year which end January 2014 in Tokyo.

Take Care.Young man.
From another young man 70 young.Ha ha Ha.


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Gus,  regards to Nellie,

I'm envious. (*)  Have a great time over there.  Happy new year both.

PS. The fish will be happy not to have been dinner !!!.


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Mose, n all,

Just an update.  I've now been out and bought a great chunk of BMS.  3 inches wide 12 inches long and 1.5 inches thick.  I've got enough to make the main tool block and three holders.  The next step is to go and see a friend of mine who has a bandsaw.

I've had a good study of your fine drawings and can see that all the holes lie on a circle.  Was that intentional or did it just turn out that way ?  It makes marking out for drilling easy.  I'll be back with further updates and some photos later.


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Guys,
Having acquired a suitable chunk of BMS to make the main block from, I got around to making a start on it.

I made a mistake when squaring up the block and cut too much off one edge, so the two 10mm holes would have broken into each other.  So I have not drilled the three holes marked.

The boring head is an old "Goliath No:6  found in the scrap yard.  The MT2 spindle was bent, so I turned it down to 0.5" to fit in a drill chuck.  Yes that is a 1/2" slot drill being used as a cutter.


----------



## gus

BaronJ said:


> Hi Gus,  regards to Nellie,
> 
> I'm envious. (*)  Have a great time over there.  Happy new year both.
> 
> PS. The fish will be happy not to have been dinner !!!.



Had good 5 days to shop and eat in Otsuka/aka Oska(very small satellite town on the JR circle line near Tokyo).
Two disasters happened.
1. Gus is nearly broke after all the eating and hardware/tools buys.
2. Put on a bit of weight. But honestly did I put on too much on the waistline.

Japanese steak is very good but stamp size.


----------



## BaronJ

gus said:


> Had good 5 days to shop and eat in Otsuka/aka Oska(very small satellite town on the JR circle line near Tokyo).
> Two disasters happened.
> 1. Gus is nearly broke after all the eating and hardware/tools buys.
> 2. Put on a bit of weight. But honestly did I put on too much on the waistline.
> 
> Japanese steak is very good but stamp size.



Hi Gus,
So I see !  I don't have any idea how much it costs to eat out in Japan, but I would want a much bigger chunk of steak than I see in that picture.


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Guys,
I did some more on my QCTP today.  After getting the holes drilled and the recess bored yesterday,  I decided it was time to cut the dovetails. Pictures below.  The cutter is a 3/4" 45 degree one manufactured by Dormer as is the 16 mm milling cutter.  I should have got a 1" dovetail cutter as this one only just gets to full depth.  All I need to do on this face is to take a very light skim to finish the surface off.  I have thought about using a four inch diameter cone grinding wheel but I am not sure about it. ;D;D

More later.


----------



## necchiom

Hi Baron. I apologize but far from home, because a business trip, so i missed your question. You did a very good job: with compliment! From my side, I found a Siemens Micromaster 440 0.75Kw vector inverter so (hope!) very soon my Super 7 will receive a useful gift. This afternoon I will try to connect a 0.55Kw three phase motor and play with hundreds of parameters.


----------



## necchiom

Just a question Baron. In this picture "qctp-myford-lathe-cutting_slot-1.jpg" something like grease or something similar appears stitched on the mill. What about? Thanks


----------



## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Hi Baron. I apologize but far from home, because a business trip, so i missed your question. You did a very good job: with compliment! From my side, I found a Siemens Micromaster 440 0.75Kw vector inverter so (hope!) very soon my Super 7 will receive a useful gift. This afternoon I will try to connect a 0.55Kw three phase motor and play with hundreds of parameters.



Hi Moshe,
I think you will find the ability to vary the motor speed very useful.  I'm still using the original 3/4 Hp single phase motor on my S7.  I do have a three phase 1Hp motor that will fit but don't have a VSD inverter.

Let me know how you get on.


----------



## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Just a question Baron. In this picture "qctp-myford-lathe-cutting_slot-1.jpg" something like grease or something similar appears stitched on the mill. What about? Thanks



Hi Moshe,
Its "Trefolex" a cutting compound.  I don't have any coolant or cutting oil set up yet, so I use this as an aid to smooth cutting.  Its surprising how much difference it makes particularly on a light weight mill like mine.  I also use it on the lathe.

I hope you will forgive my error when marking out the main tool block for the QCTP. 
As my wife keeps pointing out, me and numbers don't go well together.  I marked the block with pops where the holes should be, then when I came to drill the 10mm holes, realised that being 3mm short on one side put three of the holes in the wrong place.  So being lazy I opted not to drill the three I marked on the photo.


----------



## necchiom

Hi dear Baron, no probs for the the different design. I am very curious about Trefolex because never heard before. What about the usage?


----------



## goldstar31

Stepping in- Trefolex is probably one of those lard oil/ tallow mixtures. I use plain lard oil on my Myford Super 7 B and whilst the wasps enjoy it hot and little boys queue up thinking that a new burger outlet has opened in the old baronial hall, it is to be commended- for non industrial uses. 

 Lard oil- chips- you know the sort of thing

 Norman


----------



## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Hi dear Baron, no probs for the the different design. I am very curious about Trefolex because never heard before. What about the usage?



Hi Moshe,
I don't even know if it exists any more !  The 1Lb tin that I have is more than 30+ years old and is still half full, or half empty, depending on your point of view. 
Its a greasy green stuff and has a very odd sulphurous smell.  It sticks to your skin and is the very devil to wash off, though a drop of petrol shifts it.
I just apply it with a tooth brush as required.  It doesn't take much.  It turns into a runny liquid when it gets hot.  I also have another tin of cutting compound, I can't remember the name at the moment,  :wall:  that I bought about 20 years ago because I couldn't find the Trefolex.


----------



## BaronJ

goldstar31 said:


> Stepping in- Trefolex is probably one of those lard oil/ tallow mixtures. I use plain lard oil on my Myford Super 7 B and whilst the wasps enjoy it hot and little boys queue up thinking that a new burger outlet has opened in the old baronial hall, it is to be commended- for non industrial uses.
> 
> Lard oil- chips- you know the sort of thing
> 
> Norman



Yes you are not far off the mark !  I will have to have a look at the list of ingredients, that is if there are any on the tin.  My tin is a little bit old, so they may not have had to list them in those days.


----------



## gus

The dove-tail looks good. Ideal to go for push fit for now and later fine emory sand to get the slide fit you want.
Good reason why hard aluminium just won't do and the dovetail fits will go very sloppy.
Have you decided on the colour and shape of handle bar knobs?

Just learned a good lesson. Aluminium Worm Gear is for trials only.:wall:Will have to go brass.:rant: No worry.I bought some cut brass disc from TokyuHands.


----------



## gus

BaronJ said:


> Hi Moshe,
> Its "Trefolex" a cutting compound.  I don't have any coolant or cutting oil set up yet, so I use this as an aid to smooth cutting.  Its surprising how much difference it makes particularly on a light weight mill like mine.  I also use it on the lathe.
> 
> I hope you will forgive my error when marking out the main tool block for the QCTP.
> As my wife keeps pointing out, me and numbers don't go well together.  I marked the block with pops where the holes should be, then when I came to drill the 10mm holes, realised that being 3mm short on one side put three of the holes in the wrong place.  So being lazy I opted not to drill the three I marked on the photo.



Hi Todd,

Not rubbing in. ''To err is human''  . Made my fair share of errs while marking and machining/drilling/tapping. One M2.5 hole became M3.Used the wrong tapping drill. No worry.Made both holes M3 w/o kicking myself.


----------



## BaronJ

gus said:


> The dove-tail looks good. Ideal to go for push fit for now and later fine emory sand to get the slide fit you want.
> Good reason why hard aluminium just won't do and the dovetail fits will go very sloppy.
> Have you decided on the colour and shape of handle bar knobs?
> 
> Just learned a good lesson. Aluminium Worm Gear is for trials only.:wall:Will have to go brass.:rant: No worry.I bought some cut brass disc from TokyuHands.



Hi Gus,

I've got further on and got the hole for the retaining bolt done and threaded.
Just discovered that I've drilled the 10 mm hole on the wrong edge.  :wall::wall:  Actually I machined the recess in the wrong side so I've another hole to drill.  I've also got three blocks cut to make the tool holders with.  Now all I have to do is make them properly and get them to fit when I have made them.

So are you going to have another go at the worm gear ?


----------



## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Just a question Baron. In this picture "qctp-myford-lathe-cutting_slot-1.jpg" something like grease or something similar appears stitched on the mill. What about? Thanks



Hi Moshe,
Just so you can see what I use for cutting compounds.
The "Trefolex" is a green colour.  The "Temaxol" is a yellow sulphurous compound, and the "RTD" from "Rocol" is a smelly brown liquid.  Both tins are about half full and the "RTD" was a sample bottle from the rep of a tool supplier.


----------



## Charles Lamont

Rocol RTD is so-called because it is for reaming, tapping and drilling. Trefolex is intended for similar purposes, but I prefer RTD as I find it less messy and the smell less unpleasant. It can be had as a liquid or a paste, I have both but find the liquid more useful.

Neither is intended as a lubricant for turning or milling operations, for which a soluble oil ("suds") or neat cutting oil are more suitable. I have no pump (yet), but cutting oil can be applied by brush or washing-up-liquid-bottle-with-an-extended-spout. I use a general purpose neat cutting oil, usually diluted 50/50 with kerosene.

Having said that, I am finding RTD works well on some soft and sticky aluminium castings, as a film stays put.


----------



## necchiom

Hi Baron. Did you buy this stuff when I wore shorts? Actually I am 51...!
So finally Trefolex is intended mainly for treading, reaming, etc, isn't it?


----------



## Swifty

I'm another one that uses rocol for tapping and reaming, it's much easier to clean up than trefolex, which I used occasionally many years ago.

Paul.


----------



## BaronJ

Charles Lamont said:


> Rocol RTD is so-called because it is for reaming, tapping and drilling. Trefolex is intended for similar purposes, but I prefer RTD as I find it less messy and the smell less unpleasant. It can be had as a liquid or a paste, I have both but find the liquid more useful.
> 
> Neither is intended as a lubricant for turning or milling operations, for which a soluble oil ("suds") or neat cutting oil are more suitable. I have no pump (yet), but cutting oil can be applied by brush or washing-up-liquid-bottle-with-an-extended-spout. I use a general purpose neat cutting oil, usually diluted 50/50 with kerosene.
> 
> Having said that, I am finding RTD works well on some soft and sticky aluminium castings, as a film stays put.



Hi Charles,
Ah, so that is what RTD stands for !  I learn something every day.
I was advised not to use one of them, I can't remember which, on aluminium for some reason...  Anyway a wipe with diesel works on alloy.  I have a gallon plastic bottle full of cutting oil somewhere kicking about, I'd forgotten about it till you mentioned it.  I'll have to have a hunt round in the garage.


----------



## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Hi Baron. Did you buy this stuff when I wore shorts? Actually I am 51...!
> So finally Trefolex is intended mainly for threading, reaming, etc, isn't it?



Hi Moshe,
My wife doesn't call me a "Grumpy Old Git" for nothing. 
Actually I've 16 years on you, so probably Yes !!!

Re Trefolex et al.  Yes they are but tend to get pressed into use for other cutting jobs.  For instance it makes sawing by hand with a hacksaw easier.

I've started on one of the tool holders now.  This will be the test of how good or bad my machining skill is when I start cutting the dovetail to fit.  I'm leaving the slitting until after I've made the tool holder.


----------



## necchiom

Please Baron, let me know what about the first real test!
From my side, I finally decided the control panel layout for the inverter which will drive my Myford new three phase electric motor. Here is the draft!


----------



## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Please Baron, let me know what about the first real test!
> From my side, I finally decided the control panel layout for the inverter which will drive my Myford new three phase electric motor. Here is the draft!



Hi Moshe,
Nice drawing.  Looks very good.
I assume that the red circle at the top is an indicator light.
I know there is a stop button there but would it be prudent to put a large mushroom type stop button there so it is easy to hit it in an emergency.

The other thing that I have on mine is a "No Volt" drop out relay.  If you have a power failure it ensures that the machine cannot start up on its own should power come back on.  Particularly if you are like me in a workshop where there is no natural light.  If the power goes off, like it has done for the past few days, you are suddenly left in the dark.


----------



## necchiom

Here I am Baron! The top red circle is the "Mushroom"... Because a power supply light is strongly necessary, today I change the original layout and some components: instead of the green and red (Start, Stop) buttons, I will adopt the one in the picture. It has also a LED as a power indicator.
I planned the same strategy of you in terms of drop out relay for Run/Stop commands.
The worst: I am spending a lot of money in expensive EATON buttons/switch!


----------



## BaronJ

necchiom said:


> Here I am Baron! The top red circle is the "Mushroom"... Because a power supply light is strongly necessary, today I change the original layout and some components: instead of the green and red (Start, Stop) buttons, I will adopt the one in the picture. It has also a LED as a power indicator.
> I planned the same strategy of you in terms of drop out relay for Run/Stop commands.
> The worst: I am spending a lot of money in expensive EATON buttons/switch!



Hi Moshe,
That is a very nice looking button switch.  Having the indicator light in the switch saves a lot of space.

I wish you were in the UK, I have dozens of the push button units.  No red ones but do have amber and green lenses.  All the lamp holders that fit into them have already been disposed of.

I got some of the tool holder blocks faced and squared up only to find that they are too long to fit into my mill vice.  I'm going to have to make a clamping fixture to support them on the mill table.  I would like to be able to machine all three dovetails at one go.


----------



## Wizard69

necchiom said:


> Here I am Baron! The top red circle is the "Mushroom"... Because a power supply light is strongly necessary, today I change the original layout and some components: instead of the green and red (Start, Stop) buttons, I will adopt the one in the picture. It has also a LED as a power indicator.
> I planned the same strategy of you in terms of drop out relay for Run/Stop commands.
> The worst: I am spending a lot of money in expensive EATON buttons/switch!




Eaton has always made a good switch so at least your money is going to good product.   However if money is an issue in a home built machine I recommend putting the good money into a solid E-Stop button first as you want to know that your safeties are solid.   You can always get by with cheaper stuff for the other switches and if required up grade later.  


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines


----------



## necchiom

Wise words Wizard69! Infact I prefer "invest" money in professional Eaton components than other Far Eastern stuff...


----------



## Charles Lamont

I am also working on the design of a control box for my Myford. One difference I am proposing for mine is a jog button rather than a switch. This will not have a latching relay, so the motor will only run while the button is pressed. The VFD needs a run signal as well, so it will have double pole contacts.


----------



## necchiom

Hi Charles, originally I though the same. But later on I realize JOG would be useful for precise threading and that would not be easy pushing a button. Do you have a different idea/usage in mind?


----------



## BaronJ

Charles Lamont said:


> I am also working on the design of a control box for my Myford. One difference I am proposing for mine is a jog button rather than a switch. This will not have a latching relay, so the motor will only run while the button is pressed. The VFD needs a run signal as well, so it will have double pole contacts.



Hi Charles, Moshe,

I was under the impression that these VFD's would allow the motor to be almost stopped.


----------



## Charles Lamont

Yes, my intention is to use jog for very low speed rotation for clocking work true, either in the 4-jaw, or my 3-jaw Griptru. For threading I think I would just turn the speed down with the pot knob (having also put the lathe in bottom direct speed). Don't forget that at low speed you also get low power.


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Guys,
I did some more on my QCTP today.

After the gear problems with the mill, I got around to starting on one of the tool holders.  Got the dovetail machined and started cutting the slot for the tool bits to go into.  I decided on being able to use 1/2" square bits.  I also slit the main block with a 1mm wide slitting saw.  I purchased a 1mm x 150mm saw to do this job.  All I have to do now is to drill and tap the five M6 holes for the clamping and the adjusting screw.


----------



## BaronJ

BaronJ said:


> Hi Guys,
> I did some more on my QCTP today.
> 
> After the gear problems with the mill, I got around to starting on one of the tool holders.  Got the dovetail machined and started cutting the slot for the tool bits to go into.  I decided on being able to use 1/2" square bits.  I also slit the main block with a 1mm wide slitting saw.  I purchased a 1mm x 150mm saw to do this job.  All I have to do now is to drill and tap the five M6 holes for the clamping and the adjusting screw.



Oh :wall::wall::wall:

Forgot to include Pics.  Sorry.


----------



## gus

Hi Baron,



Superp Workmanship.th_wav
I have two DIY QCTP and all done in a hurry and none looked as good as yours in finishing.:hDe::wall:
Would like to make another like yours but it will be for display.


----------



## BaronJ

gus said:


> Hi Baron,
> 
> Superp Workmanship.th_wav
> I have two DIY QCTP and all done in a hurry and none looked as good as yours in finishing.:hDe::wall:
> Would like to make another like yours but it will for display.



Hi Gus,
Thanks for the compliments.  
But you might not think the tool holder is quite as nice.  You can see, on the right hand side, of the dovetail.  I loosened the quill without thinking and then tightened it back up when I realised what I had done.  The net result was that the cutter moved very slightly.

I've another three to make...  I promise to try harder. 

Pics attached.

PS.  I've yet to knurl the hight adjusting knob and make the lock nut.  The hex one you see is only a temporary measure.


----------



## Tin Falcon

> I've yet to knurl the hight adjusting knob and make the lock nut. The hex one you see is only a temporary measure.


When I made my tool holders I used commercial thumb nuts.








The other thought is you may have a hard time knuring that part. When machining a part like that I knurl the part while it is attached to the parent metal. 
I also recommend a scissors knurl for home hobby machines.  
Tin


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Tin,

Yes I agree I should have left it attached to the bit of bar ready for knurling. :wall:

Unfortunately I took my bump knurler to bits so I could reuse the knurling wheels for the clamp/scissor knurler that I have yet to make.

The hight adjusting screw is M5, and I don't know if there are such thumb nuts available this side of the pond.


----------



## ChipsNChips

I built this for my SB-9 a few years ago and I am delighted with it. 

Advantages/features:

Rock solid - tool holder and post lock together like a single, solid piece of steel.
Reposition accuracy - 0.001" or better. 
Fast, ONE HAND tool change. 
Independent adjustments
Yes, there is a height adjustment screw
Easy to machine - no dovetails

Here is a link to the latest version of the construction article:

http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe2/files/7._Project_Files/QC Tool Post/


----------



## BaronJ

ChipsNChips said:


> I built this for my SB-9 a few years ago and I am delighted with it.
> 
> Advantages/features:
> 
> Rock solid - tool holder and post lock together like a single, solid piece of steel.
> Reposition accuracy - 0.001" or better.
> Fast, ONE HAND tool change.
> Independent adjustments
> Yes, there is a height adjustment screw
> Easy to machine - no dovetails
> 
> Here is a link to the latest version of the construction article:
> 
> http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe2/files/7._Project_Files/QC Tool Post/



That looks good.  I like the "No Dovetails" to machine bit 

By the way your link doesn't work for me.


----------



## ChipsNChips

BaronJ said:


> That looks good.  I like the "No Dovetails" to machine bit
> 
> By the way your link doesn't work for me.



You may have to join the group to get to the link. 

If you want me to send a copy of the article, PM me with your e-mail address. 

Paul A.


----------



## BaronJ

Just got around to making a slotting attachment to fit the QCTP.  Should be much better than winding the lathe saddle back and forth.

I could have done with this when making the new gears for the mill.


----------



## BaronJ

A few more pictures of my hand slotter.




The picture shows the handle assembly.  Two pieces of 6 mm thick plate 12 mm wide drilled to take 6 mm pins used as pivots.  I rounded the ends with a file and made elongated the slot by using two drilled holes and filing the middle bit out.




The pin that pushes the ram is 6 mm as well and is secured by a 2BA hex grub screw bearing on a flat filed on the pin.  The pins were hardened by heating to cherry red and dunked in oil.  Though it probably isn't necessary.




The handle is a length of 13 mm diameter silver steel that someone at some time had heat shrunk a handle on one end.  Its just drilled and threaded M5 with nuts on the other side securing the other half.




I used a 12 mm long piece of 12 mm silver steel drilled 6 mm as a spacer and to keep the handle side plates square.




This picture shows the tool holder with the ram and operating lever attached.

I've some more work to do on the side plates and top plate.

More later.


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## gus

Will make one sooner or later. Most likely sooner as the RT not graduated yet.


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## BaronJ

Hi Gus, Guys,

Well I finished my hand slotter !  I got the thrust screws fitted and adjusted for minimal play in the ram.  I can't feel any play in any direction at all.  However there is enough side play to cause the "Spot On" to register a single division if I extend the ram to its full extent.







A couple of views of the tool laid on the garden table.




A close up of the top of the slotter showing the two brass screws and lock nuts used for adjusting the play on the ram.




In this picture you can see the brass runner strip under the ram and the top with the adjustment screws in it.










A few close up's of the top.

All that is needed now is to try it out.

Thanks for looking.


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## BaronJ

Hi Guys,

Just a few pictures of my hand slotter in action.  Its attached to the QCTP on the Myford lathe top slide.




I am using it to put a 4 mm wide keyway slot into a brass bush that supports the gear used on my mill table leadscrew.




This is a close up of the tool holder attached to the slotter ram.  The Allen screwdriver is used to adjust the amount of cut depth by pushing the tool bit outwards.  The tool bit is a 60 mm length of 4 mm square HSS tool steel.




In this picture the tool holder is fully inserted into the work piece.  At this point I had cut about a millimetre deep into the bush.  I applied a drop of oil to lubricate the tool holder inside the bush.




Here you can just see the tool bit protruding below the holder.  I deliberately set it this way so that the swarf would fall out and not stay in the work where it could jam the tool bit.




This is a close up of the finished keyway.  The marks are where I used a fine file to remove the burr on the edges of the slot.




And the bush waiting to have the gear, just visible above, fastened to it.

Thanks for looking.


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## ChipsNChips

I have received several complaints that the link that I posted below does not work. I checked and Yep, it doesn't. It used to. I can only say that the moderators/owners of that Yahoo group have been known to reorganize the files section and when they do this, the old links are rendered invalid. It does not help to complain. It is also hard to find the older files after one of these reorganizations. I have e-mailed the plans to most of those who complained and the remaining one will get them when I have an e-mail address for him. 

Anyway, I started a Yahoo group that I own so I can try to organize the files from scratch and hopefully they will not be rearranged. At least, not by me. Here is the link to the posting in the files section there. 

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MachiningTips/files/Lathe Accessories/

I am also trying to establish my own web site, but time is precious. 

I will check this immediately and make any revisions needed for it to work. If you have any questions on this, please do PM me. I will attempt to answer as fast as possible. And if you build my post, I would greatly enjoy hearing about it. 

Paul A. 





ChipsNChips said:


> I built this for my SB-9 a few years ago and I am delighted with it.
> 
> Advantages/features:
> 
> Rock solid - tool holder and post lock together like a single, solid piece of steel.
> Reposition accuracy - 0.001" or better.
> Fast, ONE HAND tool change.
> Independent adjustments
> Yes, there is a height adjustment screw
> Easy to machine - no dovetails
> 
> Here is a link to the latest version of the construction article:
> 
> http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/southbendlathe2/files/7._Project_Files/QC Tool Post/


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