# Re: First Engine No Plans.



## gbritnell (Jul 16, 2007)

I guess this is the thread to introduce oneself. My educational career started out as an art school student in Cleveland in the early 60's but that was interrupted by the Vietnam issue. While in the service I got bumped around and ended up in a fabrication/machine shop where all types of experimental projects were built. Upon leaving the Army I eventually ended up as an apprentice at the Ford Motor Co. pattern department in Cleveland, Ohio. In the early 70's I purchased a 6" Sears/Atlas lathe and an Enco mill/drill. My first major project was Cole's 1" Case traction engine. Since then my modeling projects have included a number of Stuart engines, one Reeves engine, several Briesch engines and quite a few scratch built items. I have attended the NAMES shows for many years and met many extremely talented people along the way. 
gbritnell


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## 1Kenny (Jul 22, 2007)

Got it running. This is what it looks like. I don't have sound on the movie, sorry but I don't know how to do the sound. Changed the crank stroke to 1/4" and made a beefer rod. Changed the column shafts to .1945 and put bushings in both crank and cylinder pivit. Raised the air ports and cylinder bore for the stroker rod/ piston. Put on dual fly wheels.













Edited for pictures.....


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## lugnut (Jul 25, 2007)

I emailed grizzly about which of their RT's would work best on my little Grizzly mini mill and Would You Believe they recommended I buy one of Little Machine Shops units,  So I Did!  They had a 4 # 2183 with table, tailstock, dividing plate, and a 3  chuck mounting plate, and clamps for $218 delivered.  It should be here first part of the week.  Been going to do this for year or so, now it's done.  
Mel


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## loggerhogger (Jul 29, 2007)

I have had success just using a dremel rotary tool,and a cut off disk. Takes a little practice to eyeball it on center, but for small screws, it works really well. Good luck!!!


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## lugnut (Jul 29, 2007)

WBJY7
I used it today
Mel


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## lugnut (Jul 29, 2007)

I've been toying with the Idea of making some aluminum castings to turn and have found some great sites to look at.  One thing that scares me is the thought something going wrong and burning the heck out of something or me!  Read the all the warnings!  Here are a few sites that explain the process and how to make you own unit.  Be careful!
Mel 
http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/200008/GEAR_article.html
http://www.dansworkshop.com/Aluminum Foundry.shtml
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/guest_martin.html
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/
http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/links.html


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## namonllor (Jul 31, 2007)

Hi guys,
I received an email from Rick last night so I thought I'd introduce myself to the group.
My name is Nestor, but most call me Ren (among other things). I too was one of those "I wonder what makes this do this" kind of kids. After high-school, I tried enlisting and was classified 4F for the military so I went to work for E. Lietz Inc. as a camera technician/repairman. Got heavily into professional photography, and went back into camera repairs for a long, long time. Became disabled 9 years ago and am a single dad of two great children. I homeschool them both and with the help of different organizations, I am in the process of opening up my own manufacturing business. I design and make split cane, Bamboo fly rods and reels. I presently own a small lathe and in September should be getting a Smithy CZ-239 Lathe and a LX-329 Mill, plus tooling. Right now I'm being kept pretty busy writing my business and production plan for the business, but I have decided to start my engine building with Bill Reichart's PIP-SQUEAK engine. I've seen some of the work you guys do and am in awe of most of you if not all. I hope that someday I too will be producing work like you gentlemen. There you have it. Thanks for a great site Rick.


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## Canyonman (Jul 31, 2007)

Hi All,

I do not want to Hi-Jack this thread so if Mr Moderator feels this should be a subject on its own, please feel free to"make it so."

The common "thread" {No Pun Intended} running thru this is NOISY!!!

I have one like Rake's but of even lesser quality.  

I have tried a number of things to quiet the thing down, nothing has worked, 1 or 2 melted, 1 actually made it louder! Mufflers, air cleaners, boxes/enclosures? I came across 2 hydro-statically tested tanks at the Surplus store, at least that sort of slows down the cycles, depending on what you are using, ie Paint Gun vs Impact Hammer or Drill. On these high CFM eaters it negates any improvement, it runs 1/3 less but stays on 1/3 longer when it cycles.

So what can be done to kill the noise but not choke the compressor? :evil: 

Mine bothers the neighbors, but we have talked and since I work Graveyard shift, I'm up at night, so when I'm trying to sleep they are mowing the lawn, etc. We just called it a draw. :roll: 

Take Care,      Ken


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## Philjoe5 (Jul 31, 2007)

I will be at both shows, Kinzers and Leesport.  I pretty much attend Kinzers over all 4 days...I love that place!  I'll be sure to look you up.

Phil
Lancaster, PA


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## Philjoe5 (Jul 31, 2007)

I owned my Grizzly G4000 for almost a year before doing any modifications to it.  It took me almost all that time to learn its capabilities and where it was deficient.  I replaced the bushings in the clutch pulley with my own made with bronze.  Then I made the 4 bolt compound clamp using J Early's instructions.  Although he gave measurements for a HF model that was at least 5 years old, my measurements were virtually the same.  That has made a huge difference in what this lathe can do and I wish I had done it earlier.  Now I'm gaining the confidence to really tackle any future issues that may come up.  I'm sure two of the bearings in the gear train are starting to go so that will be my next project.  The more I work on this lathe, the more I like it.


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## Philjoe5 (Jul 31, 2007)

One of the machinery vendors advertisements says something like "now is a good time to get into metalworking" and that's true enough.  Given the availability of machinery and tools, new and used, through internet sources and bricks and mortar stores it is a great time to be in this hobby.  Add to that forums like this where you can get ideas about why you get a taper in a cylinder bore and how to avoid it....why wouldn't you build engines (or other stuff made out of metal).


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## raym 11 (Jul 31, 2007)

Last weekend I displayed some engines at a local event ,kind of country with lots of farm tractors and old  iron ([email protected] 10 HPhit and miss) running in an open park like setting.

A little girl ,4or5, wearing a sunbonnet and barely tall enough to see over my table stood there with a ear to ear smile in front of my Silver E :wink: agle hit and miss engine.

Her father coulden't drag her away so he picked her up and told her that when my little engines grew up they would look like the big ones sitting in the area near me.

That made everything worthwhile if I never build another one!

raym


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## hitandmissman (Jul 31, 2007)

Just a little about myself, short and sweet.  Was a Millwright for 31 yrs, mill shut down than drove big rigs for a couple years.  Fell off a ladder in 05 and am on disability now and retired.  Got a smithy AT300 that I bought in 97 and a micro lux mini mill.  Try to make things but mostly make chips and scrap. As far as machinist I am self taught but learning.  Will post a picture of what I have made but so far after seeing what you guys and gals make you would laugh me out of town, ha ha.  Love the site and am learning a lot from what you experts post.  Keep it up please.  My name is Jim Ashmore but I go by hit and miss man.  Used to collect antique engines which I had to sell after  my fall, hense the nichname.


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## Philjoe5 (Aug 1, 2007)

For a moment I thought you'd snuck into my workshop and taken a photo of my scrap pieces that accumulated in getting my engine together.  But then I looked closer and said, Nope, my scrap isn't separated so neatly!  Congratulations on the runner!   :lol:


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## lugnut (Aug 1, 2007)

Well, I got the little 4" rotary table yesterday and as soon as I started playing with it I realized I would need a small 3inch 4 jaw chuck to go with it.  Does it ever end?  :shock:  I choose the 4 jaw so I could hold square stock in it.  I'm getting pretty good with the 4 jaw on my lathe.  The chuck should be here tomorrow.  What will I need next?  I think my wife is about to put her foot down and cut off my allowance for the shop. :cry:  
Mel


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## lugnut (Aug 1, 2007)

Ill guarantee you Chuck, you did not waste anyones space or time.  Thanks for sharing you method of making spark plugs.  I cant wait to try it.
Thanks again  
Mel


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## Philjoe5 (Aug 1, 2007)

I have plans for Elmer's Grasshopper engine.  They show a base plate of 2 1/4" x 5 3/4".  Is your engine that size?  I'd like to build one but of somewhat larger scale (maybe 2x)  :shock:  Yours looks great, nice work!


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## lugnut (Aug 2, 2007)

John I think the type your talking about are called "Row Crop" tractors some had the narrow front tires and some even had only one single front tire.   They were called a "Tricycle" front end.  They were made so special cultivating equipment could be attached to the front of the tractor.  I'm not even sure the narrow or tricycle front ends are still available.  
When I was a young boy, my dad raised potatoes in Idaho and the narrow front end style tractor was the only type we ever had.  
Mel


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## raym 11 (Aug 3, 2007)

All flywheels cast.


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## lugnut (Aug 3, 2007)

Rolla,  Thanks for the help on the table!
The degree symble is done by holding down the Alt key while typing the number 248     and you get °

look at WWW.lookuptables.com
Thanks again
Mel


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 4, 2007)

JIM:
 The pieces I have appear to made in USA the pan and griddle are both marked USA in the casting and there is no reference to China on the packaging. The box for the Griddle states "Now seasoned to a treasured black patina with 100% natural vegetable oil before it leaves the foundry in South Pittsburg Tennessee."
Tin


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## Jack (Aug 4, 2007)

I think that is going to be an indicator holder similar to this

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=326-1124&PMPXNO=12387423

Why buy when you can build  :roll:


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## Canyonman (Aug 5, 2007)

Tin,

Where the heck do you find a translator on the net for the Latin at the bottom of the posts?

Thanks,   Ken


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## Canyonman (Aug 5, 2007)

No affront meant or directed to any of our friends from Canada, the UK and Down Under, and/or anywhere else!

Mr. Moderator, 

I would support the Idea of a USA Castings/plans sub-division. If only to keep someone employed here at home. Well, maybe just castings, not plans too. Well....................... I dunno.

What do you think?

Ken


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 5, 2007)

Ken :learning is not so much of an addiction is is the thread that much of life is woven with. I do not think you need to stop downloading just organize better make some new folders and sort the plans out in a way that makes sense to you. I think lots of plans are great. you will get to the point when you have several plans for the same engine from different authors. then you can start picking the design features you like best from each one and combine them for your own design. you will learn there are many ways to make a connecting rod or piston etc.
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 5, 2007)

Canyonman: I am all for promoting USA . PMR kits are made in USA and are top shelf. I think a separate section for just USA castings/ plans is pretty much unneeded there are only a handful of companies that produce model engine casings in USA there is PMR and the UK has Stuart. Then there are a few pretty much hobbists that try to make a few extra bucks making and selling a few castings etc. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 5, 2007)

*Well the board has been on line about a month . I know actually 28 days or a lunar month  and we have hit the 100 mark for registered users.
Tin*


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## RollaJohn (Aug 5, 2007)

Rake60: Here is an article that appeared in the Farm Show magazine this spring (April, I think). http://www.farmshow.com/issues/31/02/310201.asp
Just goes to show, if you can dream it, it can be accomplished.


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## lugnut (Aug 5, 2007)

You can never have too much "Stuff"  "Stuff is good" :roll: 
Mel


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## steamboat_bruce (Aug 6, 2007)

The boiler is 4" in dia and about 12" long. I plan to have one 1" dia burner tube and about thirteen 3/8" dia flues (two pass firetube boiler). The flue tubes are 0.375" OD X 0.049" wall CDA 706 brass alloy. The boiler shell is 4" OD X 0.140" wall type K copper alloy. The tube sheets are 0.375" thk brass. There will not be any stays in the boiler. I intend to hydro the boiler at 150 psig and run at about 20 psig steam pressure.
It would be easier for me to roll the tube in the tube sheet than braze them in. I have the spec's from the rolling equipment supplier on how much enlargement of the tube (flues) in the tube sheet is needed for the intended internal pressure. I am in the process of ordering the tube roller.
Why do I need to use phosphorus bronze for the boiler fittings? I plan to braze the fittings to the boiler shell with shell reinforcing pads to avoid stress concentrations.


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## steamboat_bruce (Aug 6, 2007)

First, this is a firetube boiler. The shell is a piece of 4" OD X 12" long X 0.140" W type K copper pipe. The brass tube sheets will be brazed on each end of the shell after they are machined for the burner tube & flue tubes. The boiler heads (for the flue gas flow path only) will be bolted to the shell heads. The flue tubes are to be rolled into the tube sheets just like an industrial firetube boiler. 
The flue tubes are CDA 706 copper-nickel alloy. This alloy is used primarily for condenser tubes. The alloy does have 1 % max zinc and has 11% max nickel. My Marks mechanical engineering handbook says that the copper nickel alloy tubes are resistant to dezincification. The burner tube is type K copper so that should not be a problem.
I will machine my boiler fittings out of phosphorous bronze as suggested. What alloy is best?
Also, the flue gas path is available for inspection (tubes and tube sheets) on the flue gas side by removing the boiler heads. I guess I could apply a corrosion resistant coating to the tube sheets on the flue gas side if this was a significant concern.
Thanks for the reference for village press. I will followup on that. I would like to accumulate more information on making the combustion controls. Maybe those articles will help.


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## steamboat_bruce (Aug 6, 2007)

John,
I thought about boiler certification some time ago. I contacted the State of Missouri boiler inspector. The boiler does not need it to be certificated if I run privately. It is way below the boiler volume that requires certification. If I decide to run in public, I need a certified hydro, and submission of my boiler plans and specs to the state boiler inspector. He didn't mention anything about xraying braze joints etc. He acted like it was no big deal for a little boiler like I am building plus he knows that I have been around industrial boilers a good share of my career.
Thanks for the info on bushings. I plan to braze the bushings into the boiler shell.  The steam outlet will have a reinforcing pad to avoid stress concentrations at the steam outlet.
Maybe you are not used to hydroing pressure vessels. No problem. A hydrostatic test requires that the vessel be completely full of water. So, if there would be a failure, one just gets a water leak for a second. Since water is not compressible, the pressure collapses almost instantly with a joint leak or a failure.
I ordered the magazine article
Bruce


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## steamboat_bruce (Aug 7, 2007)

Hi John,
I plan to use a torch type burner if I can get enough draft. A firetube boiler has to have draft. If I don't get enough natural draft then I will have to install a small blower in the burner like a real boiler or in the flue stack (ID fan). I plan to use a two lb bottle of propane as the fuel source. Probably use the torch off of a small propane torch.
Regarding the hydro test in a bucket of water using compressed air, I am glad I was not around there. The water has to be on the inside of the pressure vessel not the outside. It is a wonder someone didn't get hurt bad. You can't use any compressible fluid such as air for the pressure test. Very dangerous. I will probably start out using city water pressure. Then I will go to a hand operated piston pump that is designed for a hydrostatic test. They have them where I used to work so I can use one there.


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## Jack (Aug 7, 2007)

An oldtimer told me to fill the brass tube with table salt and bend away then wash out the salt with running water. It probally wouldn't be a good idea to put the salt back into the salt shaker on the table though. I'm about at the stage of this project that I need some bent brass tubing, so I'm going to give it a try, I'll let let you all know how it turns out.


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## lugnut (Aug 7, 2007)

Hilmar,  we live 8 miles north of Yachats.  Rain is good. I like the cool damp weather.  We have had 38 inches so far this year.  The average is 63 inches a year. :shock: 
Mel :lol:


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## rake60 (Aug 8, 2007)

Johntom the author of the site that makes these plans available has 
joined our forum.   
Please welcome him.


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## tattoomike68 (Aug 8, 2007)

rake60 said:
			
		

> Johntom the author of the site that makes these plans available has
> joined our forum.
> Please welcome him.



I am happy to see him here, I like his site.


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## Johntom (Aug 9, 2007)

I would like to thank everybody for the kind comments, I am pleased that people find the site helpful.  
I will keep the site updated and will be adding more plans and info soon.
Thanks once again.

John
www.john-tom.com


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## hitandmissman (Aug 10, 2007)

I thought the original was great.  But the changed features does add a lot to it.  I would be proud if I could just get one to look half as good as either.  Great machine work.


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## raym 11 (Aug 11, 2007)

Yep, 1144 is a good thing and don't forget flame hardenable to ~ 32 rc 
with minimal deformation!


I once tried  window sash and only dulled my tools even after getting through the  'skin' (inner skin?). 

Tools tried ;
                  carbide insert, hss cutoff, axe, ect. ect.
I guess I had the wrong vintage :evil:


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## steamboat_bruce (Aug 12, 2007)

Getting back to my original question, does anyone have experience in rolling 0.375" OD cupro-nickel tubes in brass tube sheets?


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## crankshafter (Aug 12, 2007)

I have them all :lol:


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## raym 11 (Aug 13, 2007)

John & Rake 60;

Yup, and usually the defect shows it's ugly self just before my finish cut  

My favotite C. I. these days is class 40. It comes with a thin machinable skin due to the centrifical casting process. Excellent machinability,lubricity and takes a very fine polish.(the 'chips' can be seived,  mixed with light oil or some liquid carrier and used as a fine abrasive).

The flywheel, piston, wet sleeve and rings on my avatar (t-head) are class 40.  

Ray Monahan


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 13, 2007)

Rick:
     Looks like you have her trained well. She knows to get the stuff in the red box LOL.  I have been fortunate to get good deals on mine. 
maybe you need to borrow more tools from work LOL. 
Tin


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## IanN (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi, I'm Ian from Wiltshire in England, I've just joined the forum. Here are some pics of my lathe - a Drummond made in approx 1912. The first pic shows the lathe as I got it (after I cleaned it up)








I picked the lathe up a few years ago for just over £60

When I got it the casting where the change wheel banjo attaches was damaged as the pic below shows.







I ground out the damaged area to make things nice and square, then turned up a collar the same as the complete cast nose.

I then cut out part of the collar to fit in the ground out section, welded the new bit in and fettled it up with a file.







I then made a change wheel banjo to fit.







The pic below shows the whole thing in use.







I made a calibrated collar to fit the cross slide handle to make it a little easier to make measured cuts.







And made a four way tool post to replace the original tool clamp.


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## Philjoe5 (Aug 16, 2007)

I've started using a continuously cast iron sold as Gray Iron from Enco.  I think it is also known as Durabar.  It machines nicely...a little less messy than CI and you can polish it to a mirror finish rather easily.  I've made a few engine cylinders with it.  It seems to hold a thin film of oil pretty well.


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## IanN (Aug 17, 2007)

To help keep taps square to the surface I use simple tapping guides made from bolts.

Take a large diameter bolt and cut to suitable length.
Grip by the threaded part in the lathe chuck.
Face off the head.
Centre drill, then drill right through to the required diameter.
(Ream out if you are really keen!)







Small diameter taps tend to have shanks that are a larger diameter than the actual tap size.
This means you can use the same guide for a number of different size taps.
(For example, all my taps in the range 5BA to 12BA have 0.125 in dia shanks)







Tap in place in the guide













The guide is held firmly on the surface of the part being tapped.







Some points to note:

Make the centre drill cut a larger diameter than the through hole.
This ensures that the burr raised by the tap will not skew the guide.

Stamp the guide size on one of the bolt flats to make identification easy.
(I mark the guide with the tap sizes, not the hole size)


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## lugnut (Aug 17, 2007)

A great little tool that I got in a box of drill bits I bought at a yard sale is one of these little Micro Drill Adaptors




Enco wants $40 for them! I don't think I would pay that much but I'd bet some one else has a cheaper model.  
It does work real well and gives you a lot of control.
Mel


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## IanN (Aug 19, 2007)

Hi Ken,

The tap wrench in the pic is one I've had for years - made by a firm called Eclipse- but it is the standard pattern used in the UK.  (In the USA I believe that the tap wrench for small sizes is usually a Tee shape with a chuck type fitting to hold the tap).

Drawing for the tap wrench in the pipeline.

For small taps I also use a disk about 50mm in diameter with a square hole in the centre to take the end of the tap - I'll include drawings of that too.

Ian


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## IanN (Aug 20, 2007)

I made a couple of drawings for Ken of the tap wrench in the pics above.

If anyone else wants copies, please e-mail me.

Ian.


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## Jack (Aug 21, 2007)

If this works I'll be amazed, if it doesn't it won't surprize me either.
But if it does it should show the little steam engine that I finished awhile ago.





Maybe I can find a teenager around the neighborhood that can show me how to do this. It can't be as difficult as setting up a piece on a rotary table.  :lol:


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## Jack (Aug 22, 2007)

Awhile back I started to make this little engine, it wasn't that difficult to build and it was made entirely out of the scrap box.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i201.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid201.photobucket.com/albums/aa42/JackD_05/opencolumnenginerunning.flv"></embed>

Thanks for looking     :mrgreen:


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## Sprocket (Aug 22, 2007)

Gt2ride-

       " Are there any SB 10K owners on this site?"

Mine is a 1979 Heavy 10. Picture in an earlier post.  Why do you ask?


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## tattoomike68 (Aug 23, 2007)

Jack said:
			
		

> Awhile back I started to make this little engine, it wasn't that difficult to build and it was made entirely out of the scrap box.
> 
> <embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i201.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid201.photobucket.com/albums/aa42/JackD_05/opencolumnenginerunning.flv"></embed>
> 
> Thanks for looking     :mrgreen:



nice, anyone have a print for that one?


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## RollaJohn (Aug 25, 2007)

In some locations ethanol is restricted in who can purchase it. The state of Washington has decided that the general public can't be trusted with this potent brew. If we wish to acquire ethanol, otherwise known as Ever Clear, we have two choices. One,take a trip to Idaho where it is available to the general population or two, do what I do,and purchase from a business that is licensed to buy from the state. My neighbor has a licensed winery and they use it for disinfecting. So I can purchase the small amount I need from them.


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## lugnut (Aug 29, 2007)

Welcome aboard Marv, I think most of the new guys have been making a "entry statment" at the Welcome section, but I think you would be welcomed any place you choose.  I've read all your posts on the HSM forum and I know you will like it here and will be most welcome.   We need and praise your wisdom.
Mel


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 30, 2007)

Marv:
  Welcome to out little corner of cyberspace. I am glad you decided to join our ranks. I know you knowledge ,experience , and enthusiasm for making models wil be a great asset here. 
   Many of us here inclucing myself have enjoyed and learned from your contributions to the Home Shop Machinist board. 
We look forward to you posts here.

BTW looks likeyou found the right place to introduce yourself. 
Tin


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## dparker (Aug 30, 2007)

Hello All:  I am glad to find this site of and for modelmakers.  I have made some models and some tooling for my home shop over the last 30 years.  Some of  the models are from castings (steam hammer, Stewart 10V, Reeves oscillator) and many are from bar stock as I would rather not spend so much money.  Harold Depenbaugh (sp) Hit and Miss farm engine and the 6 cycle from HSM    
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and a flame licker from castings out of Popular Mechanics 1960's.  I have a Craftsman 12" X36" lathe, milldrill, drillpress, Perfecto 7" shaper,gas and wirefeed welders.  

I must admit that I am quite computer challenged but like to read homeshop machining forums.  If I can figure out how to post pictures I will send in some of my "toys".

The old PRIME and now GEARS shows are a humbling experience but I have missed only one two years ago due to heart surgery the week before. I would be ashamed to take anything of mine to be alongside those fantastic models so I stay just as a spectator. Just a reminder:  September 22 &23 is this year's date at the Kliever  Armory just west of the Portland OR Airport.
         Thank you for giving me some encouragement--------Sorry about the placement of the photos, God among others isn't done with me yet.   Don


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## dicej32 (Aug 31, 2007)

The Sept/Oct issue of Live Steam and Outdoor Railroad has a cool twin cylinder, single flywheel engine on the front cover. The build article and drawings are complete in this issue so no waiting for multiple parts. It's a unique looking engine and looks fairly straightforward to build.

Jenaro


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## RollaJohn (Sep 1, 2007)

There are several different chemical compounds known as alum. http://www.ochef.com/1080.htm
Also see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alum

Probably more than and less than you want to know about alum , as it doesn't answer the question 'which form is being used in this process?'


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## jgarrett (Sep 2, 2007)

Hope I have this picture thing figured out. This is a late 60's/early 70's EMCO Maximat 10v-P. P stands for power x-feed. When I acquired the previous owner used it alot for wood work and it was thick in grease/oil and sawdust that did not want to come off easy. Still have some cleaning to do before I'm satisfied.
Julian


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## compound driver (Sep 3, 2007)

Hi 
Im new on this site but having just added another RT to the tools thought id jump in.
I bought a second hand Kamkura RT 12 inch D. Have to say im now looking for another in 18 inch its just simply a really nice table. smooth as you could wish for and as solid as a rock.

Cheers Kevin

[/img]


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## compound driver (Sep 3, 2007)

HI kenny
Not sure about small RT's as my smallest is 8 inch and my largest 18 inches.

that said theres a program on a site that will convert for you and as far as i know its free to download.

The other RT id seriously look at is the Vertex. absolutly fantastic quality and not bad money. I have a ten inch tilting and wouldnt swap it for Kylie Manogue.

il try to find the link.


Cheers Kevin

Well ok yes i would swap it for Kylie


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## compound driver (Sep 3, 2007)

Hello John

I did the tescos run on the 1 inch again this time t keep my friends daughter happy. She's 8 and seems to have a good talent for driving the engine.
All sounds like a big adventure but tescos is 500 yards on flat ground so its not a bad run.

The two inch is coming on well after a delay for health, work and family. 
Had the drawings come for the next engine Friday. Im going to have a try at the 5 inch Foster rope hauling engine. Rather like the idea of a chain drive single gear with no reverse eccentric. (may add a slip eccentric to make life a bit easier)

Did you make the journey to Dorset? 

I have to say the guys on scale models are a good bunch. lots of enthusiasm and some good ideas.

What are your main interests?


Cheers kevin


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## peteski (Sep 3, 2007)

I have the entire set of Popular Mechanics books printed in 1955 also the year that I was born. They have many machining subjects in them. There are 12 books in the set, 13 with the index all in beautiful shape. I bought mine at a garage sale, had to dig them out of alot of other books. The lady wanted a dollar a book which I would have been happy to pay once I looked through a few of them. She even brought me a box to put them in and then only wanted 5 bucks for all of them, she said it would be 13 books less to pack away. I gave her 15 bucks for all. Best set of books I ever bought besides the 1945 12th Edition of Machinerys Handbook for 10 bucks I bought 2 weeks ago.   Pete


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## compound driver (Sep 4, 2007)

Hi

I dont tend to make spare parts for my engines on the basis that if i get a broken part it has broken for a reason and needs a redesign.
The only parts I do make spares of are eccentric sheaves and always just one. 

Mind you I some times wish i had a spare set of wheels for the traction engines for those hours of cleaning after a run!

OOH and a spare coal shovel would be a nice addition seem to loose a lot of them. last one went in the firebox followed by my friends daughter laughing at me. (full size Fowler)

Cheers Kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 4, 2007)

HI
Best way i know to center work ina  four jaw is using a floating center mounted between the center in the tailstock and the center drilling or center punch mark on the job. Now just bring a DTI in on the floating/wobeling center and adjust the chuck till the run out is as close to zero as you want or need.

Dont need to say do this with the power off do I LOL

Cheers Kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 4, 2007)

HI
Polly models in the Uk do a curved cylinder steam engine. I know for one reason my brother built the swine!

Its a fantastic engine to watch and a real interesting design but the curved cylinder was enough to turn me to smoking ( oh blast I already do)

In all honesty it wouldnt have been too bad if we had more time for the build. 

cheers Kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 5, 2007)

The curved cylinder was machined full size using a horizontal boring machine and a large rotary table. In the model
the curved bore was machined using a metal jig that was pivoted on the back of the cross slide. An extension being
bolted to the back of the cross slide to get the pivot point far enough back. The other end was forked around the
toolpost on the top slide. The top slide being used to apply the feed to a boring tool held in the chuck. The cylinder
casting was clamped to the jig.

Hi Cedge

Thats the text from the Polly catalogue, but if memory serves we used teh bridgport and a 12 inch rotary table mounted verticle. As you say a boring bar with enough trailing clearance will do the job. Being a 19mm bore it allows a reasonable bar to be used 

Not an easy engine but well worth the time.

Cheers Kevin


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## IanN (Sep 5, 2007)

In the UK this is called a 'tangential tool holder' (because the tool is held at a tangent to the work instead of axially).

On larger machines the vertical adjustment of the tool is through the use of a screw that acts on the lower 'end' of the tool and this provides a micrometer height adjustment of the cutting tool. Usually, the biggest problem in using this type of tool on a small lathe is the lack of clearance between the lathe centre and the top surface of the compound slide.

I would agree with all that has been said by others in this thread - the fact that the tool acts in compression rather than experiencing bending forces makes it a very robust and forgiving setup.

Ian.


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## compound driver (Sep 6, 2007)

Hi
Yes do it on a semi regular basis but not by welding.

I cut the blade at 45 degree angles both broken ends then grind a taper on the angled ends thinning the blade to nothing. Doing this gives a large surface area for the braze to take on.

The jig for the blade has a ledge for the back of the blade to align on and an open section for the flame from the gas torch. Always heat the blade from underneath and use the heat from the blade to melt the braze not the flame.

Two G clamps hold the ends of the blade to the jig and also wick the heat away stopping it traveling along the band.

Weld is not the way unless its resistance weld the filler metal will always fail.

Cheers Kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 6, 2007)

HI
try to not run like metals together if you can help it. if i understood you the bronze shaft in a bronze bush would be better as a stainless steel shaft in a bronze bush.

Stainless steel machines ok just tougher 

Cheers Kevin


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## Davyboy (Sep 6, 2007)

I've been working in mostly job shop machining for 30-some years.  Most places have been low tech machine pieces, sprockets and such.  One shop had close tolerance and exotic material: titanium, tantalum and pure moly.  I mostly ran engine lathes, big or small.  For a while I did G-code programming and milling of aluminum die cast molds.  We made many parts for Big 3 automakers.  Now I program and run 5" G&L bar with FANUC.   I like machining because of the skill and talent that shows when a job is well done.  Model building really piques my interest, for the quality of workmanship, you guys are AWESOME!  Like many of you, I love to figure out how and why things do what they do.  
I own a Chicom 7X10 lathe and HF $39 drill press.  Need to get a mill at home so I don't have to hang around at work after hours.  Then I need to buy tooling.....


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## dparker (Sep 8, 2007)

Where I was working the drafting department decided to get rid of the microfilm reader machine.  I asked if I could have it, and was even helped to move it out to the Lab where I worked.  It was too big to haul home in my "74" Pinto so I took it apart at work and kept anything that looked like a part of some future project.  There sure was a lot of small bearings and several shafts and rollers, mostly all metric, but I can always order metric rods to use on a model.  The base cabinet ( my assistant helped me get it home with his pickup) is now a roll around table in the garage with a 3/16" steel plate on top that is great for a welding table, and tools are stored below in the cabinet that stored the paper and drive controllers.  A scrap metal yard was close to my way home from work that had a brass section, a aluminum section and a yard full of assorted steel.  The prices were not very low but you could buy small pieces and save that way.  They have changed to mostly steel scrap now so I guess it's time to check out some machine shops.
                                                               Don


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## compound driver (Sep 9, 2007)

Just a quick one this time mostly due to time and it being Sunday evening .

After the outer wrapper you then have the inner wrapper or firebox wrapper to make. In a lot of ways its an easier bending job than the outer wrapper being parallel sided and flat topped. The only problem is the rather tight bends to fold round to the crown.
The top of the firebox is called the crown.






The way I like to do the firebox wrapper is by using the milling table on the mill drill and a 1 inch steel bar clamped over the wrapper sheet. Thanks to the gauge of copper a rather long bar is used as a lever to help the first bend. In this case three feet of ¼ x 1 3/8th MS.






Before starting the the second bend the first must be a perfect fit on the firebox end plates. If it is not a good fit the second bend will be in the wrong place and a lot of fiddeling will be required to correct the problem On this not its always worth cutting the wrapper and inch over length just so a little wiggle room is there.






For the second bend I add a large square bar in behind the round forming bar for two reasons. Firstly it allows a better clamping set up and keeps the crown flat, in addition a line can be scribed behind the square bar as a reference should the form need to go in a second time. 






Once the second bend is in place the firebox plates are dropped in just to check it all and give me something to feel like im getting on.
In the large part the two wrappers are finished now. All thats left to do is drill for the fusable plug and tidy up the bends just prior to pickeling and soldering.






Next job is making the crown stays. Unlike the wrapper stays and throat/front plate stays the crown stays are on this engine made from again 10 gauge copper sheet.
The crown stays are in some ways the most important stays in the boiler, although none can be missed out either in the wrapper or the plates. 
The crown stays fit between the firebox wrapper and the outer wrapper preventing the steam pressure from crushing the firebox or bulging the outer wrapper. And yes I have seen a collapsed firebox it was on a Durham and north Yorkshire in 2 inch. The crown had dropped almost a full inch and the joint ruptured on the tube plate to wrapper. Not a pretty sight and a full replacment boiler was required luckily the owner was left scared but Ok the engine was at 90lbs at the time.

The crown stays are a relativly simple job but must be with in 1/32 of the correct height of 2 and 3/32 inches. If the stays are too long the firebox will sit low and too short the firebox door ring wont mate up.






Bending is easy with plenty of annealing just clamp in the vice and fold over with a pair of tongs. Hammering the bend somewhat flat after. All in all each stay required four annealings to complete

Il let the pictures do the talking LOL












Just in passing the last picture shows all the boiler parts made to date. 






Oops forgot to mention the cylinder pad and motion plate pad. If you look closely at the last picture you will see in the bottom rite hand corner and just infront of the outer wrapper two arched pieces of copper. These are the pads that are silver soldered inside the boiler tube to take the cylinder and motion bracket studs. Nothing special just two 10 gauge squares rolled to the inner curve of the boiler tube. More on these when the boiler is soldered together.

Cheers kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 9, 2007)

Hi Ken

The boiler thats being bilt is for the same engine as the one i posted before but this time twice the size or 2 inch to the foot.











Il scan the boiler drawings during the week so you get an idea of the construction

and thanks for teh kind words, its a pleasure doing this feels like sharing the work load.

Cheers kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 9, 2007)

Hi
not sure if this could be used on smaller engines easily but most if not all the eccentrics i make use a center shoulder on the sheave and a groove in the strap






If the sheave is mild steel and the strap cast iron i dont try to go better than a thou or so for the fit to get a good slop free strap. In addition making the groove 10 thou deeper than the shoulder it forms a gallery for the oil. 

Cheers kevin


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## dparker (Sep 9, 2007)

Kevin, Rick and all others:  Machining seems to have been declining in the school systems for several years, but they are teaching computer skills and that could be a avenue into machining.  My Son started in Engineering two years ago and one project was to design and build a oscillating steam/air engine out of the material the class supplied.  The machine shop at the school must have been quite limited in number of machines so each student's "lab" time was somewhat hard to come by.  His College was only about a hour travel time away at that time, so Eric brought his work home and I must say it really gave me the most fun in the shop I have ever had, guiding him to the correct tooling and use of the different machines.  The finished product was not the most complex machine but they designed the drawings themselves and then made the machine from the drawings, that should give them a little sympathy for machinists in the future.  This is a picture of the first try and RUN! of the engine.  




The engine won three of the four categories for grading of the engines in the class.
One thing I never expected to hear, (and am proud of) when he visited home from the school he is at now (Nashville) was "It sure is good to be somewhere there is a shop to fix things in."  So--THERE IS STILL HOPE!!!
Don


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## compound driver (Sep 10, 2007)

HI
Well with most of the copper boiler parts cut bent and ready i thought it was time to mention cleaning the copper or pickeling as its known.

Copper to silver solder MUST be as clean as possible, thats free from any oxides and no finger prints. Even the smallest amount of grease or oxide can give rise at a later date to a boiler failing a test! its that important.

Common sense would have us pickeling every inch of the copper after every silver soldering job. The problem with this is you dont want the solder to run all over the boiler but just rather in the joint your making. A layer of oxide will act like a dam for the solder and keep it from spreading out over more of the copper than you want.

At most i only pickle half inch either side of a joint. With complex assemblies like the firebox and tube set this isnt always possible and the entire firebox has to be pickled ( rather a large lump to dip in acid in one go!). As a rule of thumb on most other joints keep the pickeling area to a minimum but make sure you have enough clean copper for a fillet to form if required.

OK SAFETY

Sulphuric acid will burn you even in a dilute state at 20%. 

Sulphuric if mixed wrong will boil and spray up at you! 

Sulphuric fumes are not to be breathed in and certainly not to be got on you!

Sulphuric will blind you it will not play games if you get it in your eyes you will not see the sunday football again!

I watched a huge miserable fitter sit and cry after burning the back of his hand with sulphuric! It really is painful its like no other burn your going to get and it heals really slowly!

Sulphuric is not the only pickle you can use but its the one i use the choice is yours but I take no responsability or do I recomend its use.

When you mix the sulphuric with teh water to dilute ADD THE ACID TO THE WATER AND NOT THE WATER TO THE ACID! be warned pooring water on acid will make it boil and it will be a bad day! I mix between 20 and 40% acid to water depending on the grade of acid and the weather. warmer weather less acid and vice versa.

keep the pcikle locked up when your not using it and nder no circumstance let any one play with or go near it its your responsability no one elses.

Keep a large bucket of clean water close by just incase. Youl also need a wash bucket filled with clean water change this every day. dispose of the waste in accordance with local regs.

Im sorry if this all sounds seriouse but in truth it is and I have had acid burns so im not talking out of my hat.

Once the pickle is mixed and your ready to clean your first two boiler parts. find yourself some rubber gloves and safety glasses. slowly lower the parts into the pickle and if possible suspend them using string and not wire. pickeling time will change with temperature and the age of the acid mix but in general 15 mins is long enough to clean all the rease and oxide off the copper.

Should you find a really nasty bit of oxide use Scotch bright NEVER USE EMERY CLOTH IT CONTAINS GREASE AND THE CARBORUNDUM CAN ATTACH TO THE COPPER.

As soon as the copper comes out of the pickle swirl it around in your rinse bucket and them avoid touching the pickled surface flux as soon as possible.

Wll thats about  it for pickeling just be safe and again sorry for the strong safety bits.

Cheers kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 13, 2007)

Hi

Just machined the second eccentric thought a few pictures could be useful.

First one shows the eccentric split faced and the two half pop marks together making one to center the work on if split and machined well there should be no need to re pop the strap.






next shows the floating center being used with the DTI to find the center. .0005 runout.






Boring the strap with a 7/8 th two flute. RPM 82 feed .0015. Thats about a good set up for Mehanite.






Machined strap in the four jaw.






The matching pair of straps.







Cheeers Kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 15, 2007)

HI
Well that was a long seven days! Spent most of it on the same job turning disks from EN1A 12 inch OD 10 inch ID 1/2 inch thick all to +- .0005. 30 of the sods.

I like to know what im making or atleast what the parts will be going too but some times it just dont get found out. MY best guess after a week of them was hoola hoops for midgets! But why would small people want half a thou on their hoops?

How many jobs do we do that never get explained to us? Wouldnt it be nice if at the bottom of teh drawings just next to the "checked by" box there was another box telling us what the job would end up doing.

On the plus side I managed to save some decent odds and ends for boiler plate formers so all's not lost.

Well im done for Hoola hoops and onto hitch pins next week so atleast I know what im making. 
Ah plus im one step closer to buying a full size portable of 2nhp so life really is looking up!


Cheers and have a god weekend Kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 17, 2007)

HI

Well after a bit of a break for other work its time for me to extract the thumbs and start the soldering on the boiler.

Firs job is always soldering the throat plate to the boiler barrel. The throat plate is the forward most of the boiler plates and effectively forms the most important jont on te boiler. As the boiler barrel is the chassis of the engine it can be seen that the joint between the throat plate and the boiler tube comes under a lot of stress both compression and extension. For this reason its important to build up a good fillet of silver solder and ensure perfect penetration of the joint.

As always in silver soldering it is most important to have the copper as clean as is possible. This will always involve pickeling in the sulphuric and then rubbing with wire wool.  As soon as the copper has been wire wooled run a bead of flux around the clean copper in the location you want the solder to flow.

Settng the assembly on a few fire bricks check that the tube is square on to the throat plate. Once your happy that the plate will go on in its correct location run some more flux around the joint. At this stage cut short bits of silver solder maybe ¼ inch and cut enough to go all the way around the joint. Lay the cut solder as close as you can to the joint and dab some flux over the solder.

Given the size of the tube im soldering here 10 gauge 5 inch OD tube. I will have to add a lot of heat from the inside of the boiler tube. The easiest way to do this is to fill the tube with charcoal to about 3 inches above the joint thats being soldered. As the boiler is standing on its throat plate end during this soldering stage once the charcoal is alight it will tend to use the upturned boiler as a chimney and draw rather a nice fire. Along with the two propane  torches this will give more than enough heat to solder the joint.

At this point il admit I forgot to take pictures of the joint being made. Most of the following joints are done the same basic way but still I wish I had remembered.
These to pictures show the finished joint with a good fillet on the first picture and full penetration on the second image.












All thats required after the joint is made will be a lite run in the acid to pickle off the flux from the joint. Before the outer wrapper is put on the flahges will be pickled and poished once again.

So onto the next part of the build, the tubes being put into the firebox tube plate.

Possibly the hardest part of this job is finding ways to hold the boiler oarts during the soldering operation. As can be seen from the first image it can be a bit of a lash up but as long as the job is held well and safely go with what works.






As each tube is placed into the pickled and polished tube plate the tube is polished in the lathe with sotch bright for about an inch up the tube from the joint.






Also the tube plate and tubes are  fluxed as each tube goes in.






Once all the tubes are in and ready just run a little extra flux around each tube to be sure and safe.






Setting the silver solder on in short bits lets you surround each tube and almost flood the tube holes as soon as melt is achieved. Heating should never be directly onto the silver solder. It should melt from the heat of the metal rather than the flame. This is the best clue that a good hot joint is being formed. Also the solder will flow towards the heat.
Rodding a little extra solder on is fine as long as again the melt is caused by the heat in the metal rather than the flame.






Start by heating the tubes slowly bringing them up to the point that the flux bubbles and drys out. Never play the flame directly onto the wet flux it will tend to boil the flux away from the joint.
As the assembly starts to turn from clean copper to black you know the heat is enough to get seriouse. At this point I start the second torch and heat all around the underside of the joint. Try to play the flames in between the tube and keep moving all the time so as to heat evenly.
As soon as the solder starts to melt watch the way its flowing if it seems to be flowing away from the tubes get some more heat into the tube cluster. Once the solder is fully melted and has flowed through the joint check to see if any extra rod is required. It almost always is.
As soon as you see a good fillet around all the tubes cut the heat and sit back. I have a smoke and a coffee till the bits are cool enough to pick up. This is the time to again pickle to remove the flux.











In the acid






Next job will be the firebox wrappers and fire hole ring, lots a heat and swearing on this one. 
I wil try to upload the next part Wednesday this week.

Cheers Kevin


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## compound driver (Sep 18, 2007)

HI

Just as a fill in between posts I thought I would give some idea of the amounts of solder flux and gas thats required for a boiler this size.

Silver solder.

The only one to use on boilers is Easyflow 2,  BS EN 1044, AG303. the composition is 42% silver with cadmium.

The flux must be a dedicated flux for this solder and one designed to stand long brazing jobs. Borax on its own will NOT do the job.

For the boiler im doing here I have ordered 60 1.6mm rods and 15 2 mm rods. I dont think I will have more than a few rods left over at the end of the job. If you think you will want 10 rods order 20 and you will be close.

Flux wise Il use around a pound and a half. When im mic=xing the flux into a paste i add a tiny drop of dish soap it helps the flux paste and wet the surface of the joints.

Gas wise il use 1 2.5 KG cylinders of propane and a few smaller cylinders for the Bernz-O-matic torch. The acetalyn i doubt will even register on the bottles as used. The 50mm Sievert will use most all of the large cylinder in a few sitings its a really hungry torch.

Dont go to the point that the boiler is all silver solder but the joints must be fully made and no voids can be in the joints. 

Cheers Kevin


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## GeorgeGreek (Sep 18, 2007)

Have just noticed that my entry to the introductory page is immediately after a "viagra salesman" post. I solemnly swear that this had nothing to do with my entry in the forum and besides, regardless of my physique, I am married to the same woman for 40 consecutive years, whatever it means to you.
If I mistakenly touch her at night, my hands are too cold if winter, or too warm in the summer.

George


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## mklotz (Sep 18, 2007)

Sometimes I think that getting an engine, particularly a complex one like that, to run for the first time produces an endorphin high that must rival what all the druggies are getting in a far less innocent manner.

If the medical community actually understood the therapeutic benefits of building something, we'd have enterprises where one could walk in and rent time on a lathe next to every gym where one rents time on a treadmill to produce entropy.

Great work, Mogens.  Keep it up.


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## dparker (Sep 19, 2007)

When I first found this forum the Elbow Engine grabbed my attention right away because I built one several years ago and could not get it to run. A few years back I took another look at it and built a new set of pistons and new cylinders to no avail.  With many hours of "playing" with it the fascinating monster still failed to run or even turn over when air was applied.  All the posts about the problems several people are having with it do help make my failure a little more tolerable.  Home Shop Machinist magazine had a right angle drive of the same principle several years ago, (my Dad told me there was one running a lineshaft drive in the family business when he was young) so I made one with 5 rods (10 cylinders) that was hand operated and it worked.




    Don


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## wareagle (Sep 19, 2007)

Well, I haven't had very much time to get out to the shop these past several weeks.  I am building a finger engine for a friend as a trade for some sound equipment.  This is the second finger engine that I have built, the first being a Saturday afternoon goof around project and not very well finished.  This one I am making much nicer, and will mount it on the Oak base.  A few more pieces, some polishing, and this one will be complete.


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## dparker (Sep 20, 2007)

Steve:  They were just discussing this on Harry's old Engine  Forum Site----Smokestack, in the Antique Engine Discussion section yesterday.  They even listed a fellow in Kentucky that evidently has or sells the plans and there are some pictures.  If I remember correctly I saw a model of it at the GEARS show in Portland OR. last year.  Possibly it will be there this year also,     on Saturday, if I can get close enough I will try to get some information.
                                                                               Don


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## IanN (Sep 20, 2007)

The designer of the engine that is the subjecxt of this thread is Jan Ridders.

Jan is a member of a number of Yahoo groups and is always very keen to assist people working to his designs. It would be a good idea to contact him if you are working on something from his site as he is a mine of information. A trawl through his posts at the Yahoo group 'barstockengines' would be a good start.

Ian.


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## compound driver (Sep 20, 2007)

Hi
This is my all day lathe its a Colchester 800 flat top. No gear box but plenty of change wheels. It runs three phase 415 volt as do all my machines. If i had to pick one to keep this would be it. For ease of use it beats the Dean Smith and Grace hands down and is a better height than my Harrison.






cant praise the Colchesters enough.

Cheers Kevin


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## Hal (Sep 20, 2007)

Macona

Monarch will still make you a lathe from new castings.

 At least last year they had eight new beds cast up for one contract.

Hal


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## IanN (Sep 22, 2007)

Hi,

I disagree with the suggestion of always buying High-Speed Steel taps instead of Carbon Steel.

Any debate about the prefered material for taps needs to consider the use or application of the tool - industrial requirements are very different from the needs of the keen amateur.

As a basic material CS is harder than HSS but cannot be used at such high working temperatures.  Taps in an industrial tapping machine can get hot enough for this to be a problem but this issue is of no concern when tapping by hand.

As CS is harder than HHS, CS taps will remain sharper for longer which means you won't have to replace your taps so often (unless you are in the habit of breaking them - which is where this thread started........)

But more important than the material is the way CS and HSS taps are made:

CS taps have their threads cut while in a soft state using a master die, the flutes are then cut, then the tap is heat treated and finally sharpened. The heat treatment process will always give some slight distortion to the tap which effects its straightness - this is important if you have a tool and cutter grinder and want to re-sharpen your taps (I have to admit that I'm not in this league and just buy new taps when they get blunt).

HSS taps are made from hardened blanks and the thread is formed by grinding. This is a more accurate method of manufacture and results in the centres on the tap ends being truly central to the tap thread. This allows the tap centres to be used in any resharpening process (of course, most of us grind off the male centre on the bottom of the plug (bottom) tap anyway). The increased accuracy of the thread may be of interest if you are making micrometers, but for normal use it makes no difference at all.

Given the above, in my opinion the only real factors to consider are:

1) Cost - HSS taps are between 1.5 and 2 times more expensive than CS taps (in the UK)

2) CS taps remain sharper for longer.

3) If everything goes horribly wrong and you break a tap and none of the usual 'tricks' can remove the jammed tap fragment, CS can be softened with a reasonably small amount of heat allowing the remains to be drilled out.

In view of this I go for CS taps and dies.

Ian.


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## IanN (Sep 22, 2007)

Hi Hilmar,

Please take a look at the back of the chuck...... Is there a lathe attached to the backplate? If so, I would be interested in taking it off your hands.

Ian.


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## dparker (Sep 22, 2007)

Steve:  Just got back from GEARS and did in fact see the engine you were posting about (along with many, many others).  We were there when several exhibitors were gone to lunch but I did get to snap a picture between shoulders and heads getting in my viewfinder. 




I do not know much about this engine but Henry must have refined it quite a bit to be able to operate a horseless carriage with it.
I am glad you found the producer of the plans and are on your way to obtaining them for your enjoyment and hope to see the product of them at some future date on this forum.      Don


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## GeorgeGreek (Sep 25, 2007)

Hi people,
one of my best (and usually free) source is the odd caput printer that some friend is ready to throw into the garbage can or somebody already has, if I am lucky.

Lots of straight steel rods thin plates, springs e.t.c. can be found.

George


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## tsvservice (Sep 26, 2007)

If you get a chance to read some of the excellent books by Kozo Hiraoka (Shay, Climax and Heisler live steam) you will see that he advocates the "small piece of solder" method.  As his photos show, it does a VERY neat job.


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## tsvservice (Sep 27, 2007)

Hi all, my real name is Don.


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## Davyboy (Sep 27, 2007)

I found this site has some really good scans from old magazines.  No plans but great pictures.  Much of it is Sea Fury.

http://www.pfs-ware.com/smith/MyPage/MyPageToys2.htm

I bought a box at auction last Saturday.  $5  for a half -finished balsa plane and a box of dusty props, 6 dirty old airplane engines and ...
a Sea fury outboard.  More projects to store in the garage.LOL   Outboard motor is pretty gummed up and no glow plug or transom clamps but way cool. Sorry no photos yet.


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## dparker (Sep 28, 2007)

Hello All:  I apologize for taking so long to respond to the comments about the little engines.  The four cylinder engine has a static inlet/exhaust divider in the horizontal "axle" at the sealed end of the cylinders.  There is a rotating spider that has ports to allow the air to go out to the pistons as the opening rotates over the opening at the divider.  Hopefully the picture of a sketch will be clear enough to show what happens.








The next picture is of a couple of a Rudy Kouhoupt designed oscillator engine (1969)  that my son and I built for Christmas presents about 10 years ago for his "Grandpas". 




A oscillator made with square tubing and no lathe needed probably came out of Popular Mechanics or Live Steam Magazine.




Thanks for looking.  Sorry about the dust, please don't tell my wife.     Don


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## lugnut (Sep 28, 2007)

After seeing Don's "Swash plate" engine, I remembered that I had marked a web site with one very simular.  Its called the Green Steam Engine and uses a method of converting reciprocating movement into rotary movement.  I tried to reproduce it once, but got lost in other projects that my wife thought more urgent.  I think I still have the parts I made.
IF any of you want a look, here is a link to the site.  
http://www.greensteamengine.com/
there is even a video of it running.
I may have to take another whack at it.
Mel


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## dparker (Sep 28, 2007)

Bog:  I tested and certified new and used sewage pumps for 32 years and it was anything but dry.  What about the fellow septic pumper on the Red Green show?  I cannot remember the names because we haven't had the show here for a couple of years--too bad, I enjoyed it.  That show probably sold more Duct Tape than any advertising.
Don


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## ptulmer (Sep 28, 2007)

http://user.it.uu.se/~rist5661/rocketery/pulse_jet_plans.html

Take a look at the dyna-jet plans.  A real pulse jet puts out massive amounts of power (and noise).  One day I will figure out how to make one and deafen everybody at the flying field.


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## Lew Hartswick (Sep 28, 2007)

lugnut said:
			
		

> http://www.greensteamengine.com/
> there is even a video of it running.
> I may have to take another whack at it.
> Mel


Now that is quite interesting. I don't see what the blue thing on the right is 
doing. It dosen't appear to have anything to do with the valving or control.
I would realy like to see more details on the entire thing but especially 
the "swivel" joint to the cylinders. 
  I think I could get "enthused" enough to try building one if the details 
are somehow forthcomeing. 
   ...lew...


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## jgarrett (Sep 30, 2007)

Had this so long I had almost forgotten about it.
Julian


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## dparker (Sep 30, 2007)

Hello All:  As was mentioned in my previous post about the wrong rotation impeller in the casting kit and making a new impeller, I finally got around to taking a picture of the impellers.




My rotary X-Y table was dismounted from the cross slides and mounted on a homemade angle plate to be used horizontally or vertically on the mill drill.  I made a spindle nose adapter to mount the lathe chucks right off the lathe.  This setup is very useful for turning, then milling and returning the chuck for more work on the lathe without losing any "centers of rotation.  Another plus is having two 4 jaw chucks to be able to work on one or the other machine if needed without disrupting a setup.




Don


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## Lew Hartswick (Oct 4, 2007)

jgarrett said:
			
		

> Had this so long I had almost forgotten about it.
> Julian
> 
> 
> ...


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## LeChatNoir (Oct 7, 2007)

First off, Hello and thanks to the site admins for setting up this forum.  I found it through another forum while researching and learning about steam power.

I am an artist/blacksmith as my profession, with about eight years of machining experience prior to that (primarily CNC for Tool & Die work, but well versed in all manual machines as well).  Ive been active for years in several places online, but mostly forums geared towards art in general, or metalwork related to my livelihood.  

My interest in joining this forum was to hopefully further my learning about steam power, with a specific interest in making a steam power plant upgrade for a human power art-car that I finished earlier this year.  The vehicle was assembled almost entirely from old discarded farm implements, and what could not be found was forged out in the shop.  Imagine a railroad handcar, but with large steel wheels for traveling overland.

Thanks again for the forum, and I hope to learn as well as contribute where ever I can.

LCN


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## ronm (Oct 8, 2007)

Let's not let our egos run wild here, boys...the difference between Man & the lower animals is the ability to make & use tools. So we who can do that are human, nothing more, those who can't are just apes... :lol:


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## shred (Oct 9, 2007)

Found this while looking for scrap aluminum:

http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=1394068&convertTo=USD

Are they worried somebody is going to rewind all that swarf back into barstock so they can see the shape of the hole where the part came out??


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## gilessim (Oct 10, 2007)

shred said:
			
		

> Found this while looking for scrap aluminum:
> 
> http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=1394068&convertTo=USD
> 
> Are they worried somebody is going to rewind all that swarf back into barstock so they can see the shape of the hole where the part came out??


    This maybe a strange American use of the word "mutilate" but I can't see how you could mutilate that stuff anymore than it already is!


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## ronm (Oct 12, 2007)

Jon, I have a UV leak detector kit I got from Snap-on mostly for air conditioning. It has an ultraviolet light, & dye that you put in the system. The kit includes dye for A/C, fuel, oil, & coolant. You add the dye, run it a while, & the dye stain will glow bright yellow when the UV light shines on it...sounds like it might work for your situation. If you don't want to buy a kit, you could prob. find a shop w/one, they might do a check for a reasonable price. The kit cost over $100 from Snap-on...
Ron in CO...


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## peteski (Oct 13, 2007)

I just don't seem to find any time to actually make anything yet. Working in a machine shop 45 plus hours a week takes the fun out of it.  I also do custom machine work at home so the little projects have to wait. I have many plans for the future for engines and things like that. This is a great site and really glad I found it.


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## lugnut (Oct 13, 2007)

Welcome peteski,  This is a great place to watch and learn about small home made engines.  These guys are real craftsman.  I can spend a whole lot of time just looking and admiring their work.  And I'm learning new things every day.
Good to have you on board
Mel


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## lugnut (Oct 13, 2007)

There are Spiral Point and Spiral Flute taps.  Has anyone used the Spiral Flute taps?  Are they any good?  I think the majority of my work is in Aluminum and Brass.
Mel


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## chuck foster (Oct 14, 2007)

along time ago my cousin and i made a tennis ball gun/launcher and we use either (sp) for the fuel...........we had soaked the ball in either and when we fired it, it flew about 200 feet across the back yard and right into the barn full of hay! :shock:  we burnt the barn right to the ground.
needless to say we got the beating of our life that day...........but we tried it again about 2 weeks latter...............after all no more barn to get in the way!!!

 chuck


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## chuck foster (Oct 14, 2007)

thanks for posting these pictures now i have another engine project to add to my mile long list!!!   :lol:   
could you post pics of the push rod side of the engine?

chuck


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## dparker (Oct 14, 2007)

Chuck:  Thank you for the kind comments.  The Hit and Miss engine was built several years ago and finished just before we went on vacation to our home town.  My Father collected and restored old engines and trucks/cars so I left the starting of the engine for him.  We had a good time and got it running in quite a short time, it was fun and with this size engine there is room for it at home with the added ease of moving it around.  I never did quite get the flyweights to work quite correctly so that is still a "to do" project.  The 6 cycle engine I built from articles in HSM, and when I got it running I called  Dad and did not say anything at first, just held the phone up to the running engine and then asked "What kind of engine is this?"




  I haven't done any IC engines in the past several years but have built a few air engines, some tooling, and helped teach my Son a little machining to build his oscillator engine for collage.  My interests lie in the somewhat shorter projects and tooling for my machines.  This forum has helped me to regain my interest in playing in the shop.  I thank everyone here for that.
Don


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## chuck foster (Oct 14, 2007)

i'm glad to hear you are getting interested in your shop again!!
i try to get out in my shop every day and do atleast one thing to a model, sometimes i work for hours and the next time i just sweep the floor and look at things.
 now looking at you second picture i see it has the crank pin attached right to the flywheels, i have never seen that before. very neat ideed.
i see you used ignition points, what did you use for the high voltage spark coil?
i have tried a transister ignition but i had no luck with it, i know they work but not for me.

i now use an ignition coil out of a motorcycle or lawn mower and wire it to a ford fuel pump relay, i have used this set up for the last few months with my associated engine and so far it works ok.

any who nice engines and i hope to see more of them form your shop.

take care
              chuck


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## dparker (Oct 14, 2007)

Chuck:  The coil is a 6 Volt coil Dad gave me from one of the restorations he was doing (took 4 pickups to get one whole one back together).  The points and condensor are Mopar parts.  I just hooked it up as the plans showed.  The box can be used for either engine, the desired engine can be flipped upside down and carried inside the box for safety.  One end of the box is hinged to allow the "lid" to be slid out and changed or rotated to hook up the model, then the lid is slid closed and the end latched shut with carrying handles on each end of the box.  Self contained and safe for the model. 








I do spend a fair amount of time in the shop tinkering around and working on things the Wife buys at estate sales that need a little fixing up so she can try to resell them.  That keeps us both with something to do and she calls me if she finds any tools I may want.  She has learned that I will be happy with any tools in a red box (Starrett).
Don


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## lugnut (Oct 16, 2007)

John that is so cool!  Thanks for the Youtube link.  You are an inspiration to us all!   So will you add packing a seals so to run on steam?
Thanks again
Mel


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## Jack (Oct 18, 2007)

I have been buying from Enco for about 5 years now and although I get the big book, monthly sale flyers, emails of specials and the closeout flyers along with each shipment, BUT I have yet to see or get a free shipping code. Where does everyone get these from? Someone always post the code of the month but just once I would like to actually see one for myself.

P.S. I am working on the Webster gas engine and I will post photos when I get some more parts finished.


----------



## chuck foster (Oct 20, 2007)

another good bit of tooling to use is a suburban  block/cube.
it is a block of steel that is ground on all sides and all sides are perfectly square to one another.
there are bolt holes on all sides and you just clamp your part to the block and away you go, all holes and slots are square and parrallel to each other. 
i use it to machine gas engine blocks. set up the block on the cube and machine your main bearings first, then turn the block around so you can machine the cyliner bore and they will be square to one another.
if any one is interested will try to post a pic of it in use tommorrow.

chuck


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## lugnut (Oct 22, 2007)

Chuck has had a very bad experience this day and we all join in wishing him the very best recovery.   I cant think of many things that would be worst than loosing all my tools( not including friends and family) to some scum bag thief.
He has a big problem just trying to recall all he had in that tool box (way too many little things to remember).  I try to at least once every 6 months to take my digital camera out to the shop and take bunch of photos of every thing in the shop.  Now days with the new digital cameras its not a matter of cost other than your time.  Your insurance is more likely to honor your claim if you have some photos of what you lost.
Chuck we wish you the best of luck in this 
Mel


----------



## bob ward (Oct 23, 2007)

Drill sharpening has always been a black art to me, so after following this thread I'm going to buy a DD750. But...

Checking Australian suppliers, the 240V 50Hz version is expensive compared to the price of the US 110V 60Hz? version mentioned in the thread. At US pricing levels I could import one airmail and land it here for half the best local price. 

Does anyone in the 240V world have a source for well priced 240V 50Hz DD750's? I've done all the usual searches overseas, but without success so far.

[email protected]


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## chuck foster (Oct 23, 2007)

well first of all i would like to say thanks guys for all the kind words  

steve no offence was taken...........you were right i was affraid too move lastnight.............i thought with my luck i would get hit by lightning. :shock:  

my boss let me have all day to order stuff  and go get tool boxs and all sorts of tools   he is indeed a great guy.

i think my boss will be suprised when he see's the total bill. :shock: 

as far as the crank in my model.........a new one is almost finished.

the end mill will live to do some work, instead of 4 flutes it is now a 3 fluter. first solid carbide end mill i have ever had in my home shop and it just had to get broke :cry: 

oh well as one of you guys said, no one was hurt or killed.

oh yea my sons high school football team won tonight, so it has been a good day 

still hav'in fun inspite of it all

chuck


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## lugnut (Oct 23, 2007)

Well the Drill Doctor is a wonderful machine.  Its not idiot proof, I was a great test for that, but if you follow the instructions and develop a feel for the operation, and pay attention to detail, you can sharpen bits like a Pro.  I have hundreds of bits of all kinds and grades.  This little wonder is going to put them all in working order.  I tried the118° and the 135° and the split point.  I like the 135° split point.  I only got up to the ½ inch bit.  Tomorrow I will try the larger sizes up to the ¾. I guess my larger ones up to 1 inch will still be done by ME.  
I love it 
Mel


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## ronm (Oct 28, 2007)

When I got my BP, it came w/a few so-so R8 collets. Not long after, I went to an estate auction hoping to buy a set of collets. Having done my homework, I knew when to quit on a coffee can full of Enco collets still in the boxes...2 fools met, & the biggest one paid $350 for 13 collets! There was one guy there that seemed to be bent on going home w/all the tooling. A friend & I had a laugh over the price & I went home & ordered a brand new set of 13 Enco collets for about $140. They are Chinese, but very well made & accurate. I did come home with a nice shop-built surface gauge, some boring bars, & a box of misc. small hardware that will last me as long as I need them...
Ron in CO...


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## Julian (Oct 28, 2007)

Hi All

I am eagerly awaiting delivery of a Caswell 'Plug n Plate' kit for Nickel plating. Looks good so will report back to y'all when it has arrived and had a play. Should be the best fifty quid spent so far today. I upgraded the kit from 250ml of solution to 1 ltr

Julian.


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## Julian (Oct 28, 2007)

This is definitely going to be electric. The plan was for it to be ready for christmas so with a suitable trailer myself and Firebird can chuff around the garden with a can of beer. Will not happen this year cos wont be ready but we will still drink the beers and will probably be in my workshop.

I have chosen electric because I cannot afford the materials for steam at the moment and feel that this will be a useful start. Also it only needs insurance to run in public no steam and pressure tests and all the H&S b*****ks that appears to go with it. I fully intend building steam in this lifetime but not while the metal prices and so extortionately high. I am new to machining and work on the principal that too much planning and forethought gets me nowhere. I build a part and see if it works. If not I do it again or repair it. I have no patience with planning and build what looks right and feels right. Works most of the time. If it does not it ends up in the scrap bin after several choice sentences and then the part bouncing off several walls on its journey to oblivion.

Julian.


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## leweee (Oct 29, 2007)

a few more sources.

LINK


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## IanN (Oct 30, 2007)

Hi,

I have to disagree with Macona about HSS taps and dies.

For our hobby use there is negligable difference in the thread accuracy and so, in my opinion, the only real factors to consider are: 

1) Cost - HSS taps are between 1.5 and 2 times more expensive than CS taps (in the UK) 

2) CS taps remain sharper for longer. 

3) If everything goes horribly wrong and you break a tap and none of the usual 'tricks' can remove the jammed tap fragment, CS can be softened with a reasonably small amount of heat allowing the remains to be drilled out. 

CS wins every time.

Ian.


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## cfellows (Oct 30, 2007)

It's not clear to me from the plans how the engine is throttled?  Looks like a simple, needle and jet carb with no throttle control?

Chuck


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## Jack (Oct 31, 2007)

Here is the result of a few more days worth of work on my little engine build, I plan to keep posting photos until it's done.


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## Jack (Oct 31, 2007)

OH Great!!! I've only been here a few days and already I have started a fight. (LOL)  
Seriously, I have the drawing, got the piece of steel, even have the rotary table now how do I cut this out of round thingy?
Can it be explained in 500 words or less or do I have to go to a old time machine shop and watch someone do it?
I guess I could take it to someplace and do it on a CNC machine but then I wouldn't be able to say that "I made this little engine" now would I. :lol:


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## Julian (Oct 31, 2007)

Why not build two or three slightly separated 3m by 3m buildings then you should not need permission and the money can go towards your lathe.

Julian.


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## bob ward (Nov 1, 2007)

Would the crankshaft turning adaptors work for 4 cylinder cranks if you had an adaptor and a chuck at each end?


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## tmuir (Nov 1, 2007)

Julian said:
			
		

> Why not build two or three slightly separated 3m by 3m buildings then you should not need permission and the money can go towards your lathe.
> 
> Julian.



I have only one flat section of land left I can build on and once I leave space for access paths and clearance required by law to septic tanks leaves a space about 4.5m by 4.9m so only enough room for one building and the biggest 'off the shelf workshop I can fit into that space is 4 by 4.8m.

I live half way up a hill in the forest and although I own an acre of land most is too steep to do anything with.
Just to create the area of flat land cost me $5000 and this was an easy spot to do. If I want any more level land it would be cheaper to sell the house and move.
But on the plus side I think my workshop will have a brilliant view compared to most workshops.
My window will look out between the trees and down the valley to the top of the next hill a few kms away.


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## Jack (Nov 1, 2007)

Yesterday (Wednesday) I asked for help with cutting a cam for a model engine that I am making, within hours help was on the way. Thanks Again... John.

I followed his instructions this evening and it worked.

Turning the blank to size





Laying out the profile on the end of the blank





Drilling the bore out to size





Milling the sides of the cam





Almost Done





Some filing and sanding to remove tool marks and I'm amazed how easy it was





All you have to is ask for help and someone will offer, I certainly appreciate the help that I received, Thanks


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## Jack (Nov 2, 2007)

Either your studying my photos to much or you have a flair for catching small details. After I started to make the cuts the hole thing loosened up because the round bar was bending so I switched to something tougher, a short allen wrench. :roll:


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## firebird (Nov 3, 2007)

Hi

  Thanks for the nice comments. You guys don't miss a trick do you. Well spotted on the corkscrew kenny. The racks for the steel bar are made from square plastic drain pipe. The shops have just had a good clean out Mel so it was a good time to take some photos, I must admit I'm impressed myself how tidy they are. The overal dimensions Chuck are 8 foot X 18 foot  in the wood shop and 7 foot 6 inch X 24 foot in the metal shop. The chair is the best seat in the house and it's mine!

Cheers


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## firebird (Nov 3, 2007)

Hi Jack
          Perhaps I should have taken some photos before I had a good  clean up but then you wouldn't have been able to see so much. If you could see it now, what a difference a few hours make. Yes ronm the natural light is fantastic and one of the main design features when I built the shop. I too have been used to working in poorly lit workshops so wanted this one as light as possible.

Cheers


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## Julian (Nov 4, 2007)

John,
You may be right about it being a lash-up but the job is very 'professional' and looks as if it uses parts from another table to alter it. Buying another table is not an option. I bought this one because it was the right price. I don't use them often. If I can buy a replacement knob complete with all the markings I will. If not I will make something that will do the job. I had hoped someone would have some ideas of where to go or who to contact. I may give Chronos a ring when I am off on Tuesday.

It is a very solid 6" table with virtually no wear and zero backlash. I needs to see some use.

Julian


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## cfellows (Nov 4, 2007)

I completed the cylinders and attached them to the frame this weekend.  They are made from cast iron rod, 2.625" high, 2.0625 OD, 1" ID.







Chuck


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## Davyboy (Nov 5, 2007)

I have several of the Lindsay reprinted books.  Greenly is a real nice book.
  Also nice is 'Model Engineer's Handybook', by Paul N Hasluck.  At only 140 pages, not as comprehensive as Greenly.
  I've got two of seven books of the Essential Steam Power Library.  These books are heavy on theory and graphs, I like more pictures.
  A pretty cool book is the 507 Mechanical Movements.  For only 6 bucks, a wealth of Rube Goldberg type of gear trains and mechanisms.  
  Of course the availability is subject to change.


----------



## Davyboy (Nov 5, 2007)

A little gizmo can be seen here:  http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/dec01/dec01.html#Sneaky Puzzle    Looks like a bolt and nut, but only turns in one direction.

Nested shapes in wood:
http://pagesperso-orange.fr/robert.bosco/dodecaedreetoileen.htm

I've got Wonders in Wood, published by Lindsay Publications.     www.lindsaybks.com     This book has about five or six plans for wood burrs and star puzzles that could be easily made from bar stock.


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## Julian (Nov 6, 2007)

After 60 minutes  zero replies but 13 views.......see my point?

Ok its 2330hrs here in UK and several times across USA but?????????????


Julian


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## Julian (Nov 7, 2007)

Hi Tin,

I agree that the figure you give are probably about right but my maths puts us on 5%. If we can get participation up to 20% that would be great. 

I am glad that your son is so heavily involved in your hobby. I have only daughters so can pass nothing on to them.

Myself and Firebird went to the model Engineering show at Warwick here England a couple of weeks ago. The day we went I would guess they probably had over 2000 through the doors. Looking around we were probably amongst the youngest there. We need the active participation of young and old to keep the interest going. Only by many questions and discussions will this happen and if I can do my bit I will.

Julian.


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## Julian (Nov 7, 2007)

Welcome Bob,

Plans?  What are they? Just dive in and see where you go. Take plenty of photos as you go not just at the end. If you are stuck just post one for comment and help.

Julian


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## Julian (Nov 7, 2007)

Hi Air,

Get some kit when you can and dive in. Seig make a small lathe called the C0. Its very small and can sit on a table top. It is a very basic lightweight lathe and needs some love to bring it up to scratch but you can buy it for less than £200. Look on the web for http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk. He will send anywhere in the world and is very helpful and competitive.

Welcome

Julian


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## Julian (Nov 7, 2007)

Nice job Well done.


Julian.


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## Julian (Nov 7, 2007)

Hi John,

Excellent posting with some good replies. I am glad to see that I can re-use some of the crap I have also bought at Aldi "just in case"!! I recycle some broken drills and files as cutters if something unusual is required but it never dawned on me to use wood work router bits for metal.

A suggestion I will make is fine-tune the profile with a decent dremil bit. You can then give it better shape and rake to help clear the chips we are all attempting to perfect.

Julian


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## Julian (Nov 7, 2007)

Hi John,

Going by the time of your posts you seem to keep the same hours as me! Use the computer when the controller has got to bed.

I like your design and have downloaded it all. I never build one project at a time. I build two or three at once depending on which bit I fancy doing next. I also have several 'future' projects which have a box each under the bench. Each box gradually collects bits for its project until there are enough bits to make starting viable. This is my next future box.

Thanks for metric....I don't like imperial. All my machines are metric except for my big 40 year old Denford Viceroy lathe. That works in metric when I use a metric caliper so not a problem.

Julian.


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## Julian (Nov 7, 2007)

Hi John,

Yes I will start a new thread in the break in a minute.


Everyone.

Please don't get me wrong. My original post was because I looked at the ratios and felt more should post. Sometimes a simple "good job" goes a long way both for the builder concerned and also with all those yet to build or post. If we who are happy to post can encourage or motivate others in this hobby then I believe we have done a good job and brought someone else into the community we share.

Speeling ond gwammor dontt marrer iff de meenin iss der an ebrywon cann steel udderstood annd kontwiboot. Did you konw taht if you mlepsil all yuor wrdros but lvaee all the fsrit and lsat lrettes in the ccerrot pecals yuor biarn wlil slitl be albe to raed tehm. So do not worry - typos, different spellings and differing grammar are not a problem. As the late great Eric Morecambe said "I am playing all the correct notes but not necessarily in the correct order!". If its good enough for Eric it's good enough for me.

Julian.


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## firebird (Nov 8, 2007)

Hi 

   I have similar problems in that my lathe is imperial and my mill metric. I am in the throws of fitting DRO's to the mill to over come the problem when changing friom lathe to mill. See my post in the tools section for more info and photos.

Cheers


----------



## dparker (Nov 9, 2007)

Tom:  I had the chance to rummage through the scrap bin where I used to work and get some 12 gauge flat stock and tag ends of angle iron and other scraps.  With some of this scrap and some high precision bearings I salvaged from a microfilm reader I made a set of balance wheels much like we used to balance pump impellers in the assembly department.  My son and I used this to balance his flywheel for a oscillator engine he designed and built for one of his classes.




This works quite well and can static balance flywheels and crankshafts.  You could even put the rod and piston on the crank and adjust the crankshaft to be close to balance by adjusting the weight opposite the crank.
don


----------



## ronm (Nov 9, 2007)

John, you know why the Roman Empire fell? They didn't have WD-40 or duct tape...


----------



## Bob Parker (Nov 11, 2007)

I am in the process of building the Webster engine. I am about ready for a carburator. He has plans to build a carb. but recomends using a R.C. carb. Can anyone recommend a source for a R.C. carb. Any other recommendations appreciated.

Thanks
Bob


----------



## Hal (Nov 11, 2007)

John

If I read and understood you correctly you stated that by adding a curved profile to the rod you made it stronger.

By cutting a  flute  the length of the rod all you did was make it lighter, not stronger.

You can prove this to yourself  simply by clamping  one of the rod ends horizontal in a vise and hang a weight from the other end and measure the deflection.

Than  flute or contour the rod and repeat the test.

Fluting or contouring allows you to use a THICKER material and by fluting or contouring reduce WEIGHT but at the same time  having more STRENGTH than a thinner unfluted/contoured rod of the SAME WEIGHT. 

Hal


----------



## dparker (Nov 13, 2007)

Hello All:  My lathes are not as new or as old as some shown on this thread.  The Atlas/Craftsman I bought in 1968 and was used by my Dad until I married in 1977 and found a house with room for a shop.  I then commandeered it out here to Portland OR and he found a used Atlas 12x36 floor model for his home shop.  In 1976 Dad and I  bought a Jet knockoff 1430 floormount that was used at the family business because it is 3 phase. 
The Craftsman is capable of as good or better accuracy than I am as a self taught "machinist" wannabe.  I have made several bits of tooling for it and have many of the accessories that were offered for it.  I have 2 four jaw chucks, which makes it really nice when something comes up and I can use the other chuck instead of breaking down a setup that is in progress.




This second little lathe was a kit of castings from January 1965 Popular Mechanics magazine.  I finally ordered a 4 jaw chuck from Little Machine Shop at the GEARS show for it.  The first one was not up to my expectations but it was replaced very graciously and the second one appears to be quite nice but I still need to make a back plate to mount it on the spindle.




 Don


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## dparker (Nov 13, 2007)

Hello All:  Tatooed asked for it so look out here comes my list of stuff I saved.  You may be able to find microfilm or copies of the old magazines in a larger library, some of these are on the web also.

Plans and Articles in my files

Steam Hammer    Stuart Turner LTD  Dwg# 80072  from Coles
Round Robin oscillating steam engine     by R.S. Hedin   1977 Caldwell Ind.
Open Column Launch engine        Caldwell Ind.    1972
Stuart Turner Steam Plant oscillator By Bill Holeman 1943 from Coles Power Models
Model oscillating engine  by Rudy Kouhoupt  1969
Model walking Beam Engine by Rudy Kouhoupt  1969 Aug. Popular Mechanics
Hot air engine (Henrici type  E T Westbury    M.A.P. LTD  (M2)
The Spinette Geared Impulse Turbine by E T Westbury M A P LTD (M15)
Model Radial engine   by Rudy Kouhoupt 1969
Rorary Steam Engine  by C I Mise  Mise Experimental Engines 1973
Model Vertical steam engine  by Rudy Kouhoupt   1969
Stanley Steamer Mini  by W J Ryan   1974 (sent to Rick Kerr)
Light milling & Drilling machine by E T Westbury   ME 1965  (2 sheet)
Air cooled Hot air engine by Harry Walton April 1961 Popular Science
Magnetic motor looks like steam engine  by James McKinney Feb 1960 Popular Mechanics?
A Lathe Milling machine Table   July 1972 Popular Mechanics
Boring Indicator For Lathe by Gordon Douglas May 1969 POPULAR SCIENCE
Make A King Sized Tool Post For Hefty Turning Bits by Walter Burton year? Popular Mechanics
Add a Limit Switch to Your Lathe Carriage by Arthur Voltz Oct 1970 Popular Mechanics
Add a Indexing Attachment to Your Lathe by Walter Burton March 1971 Popular Mechanics
Make this Back Holder and Upsidedown Tool Bits by Walter Burton Aug 1969 Popular Science
How to Make and Use Lathe Boring Tools by Walter Burton  Aug 1968 Popular Mechanics
Lathe Ball Turning Attachment by Walter Burton  when?   Popular Mechanics
How to Mill on a Drill Press by Kenneth Littlefield Jan 1969 Popular Mechanics

                                                                                                            2 of 4
Mandrel for Tricky Knurling Jobs by Walter BurtonPopular Mechanics November 1962
Electric Cannon Fires BBs by Roy L Clough Jr.---Popular Mechanics  November 1963
Fun With a Homemade Thermopile by Harold  P Strand--- Popular Mechanics  March 1963
Traveling Lathe Oiler---------------------Popular Mechanics March 1963
Precision Indexer For Your Jigsaw by Walter Burton---Popular Mechanics  March 1963
Special Punches You Can Make by  Walter Burton---Popular Mechanics  December 1967
Make a Inclinometer and Get Those Angles Straight  by Walter BurtonPopular Mechanics December 1967
One Machinist Tells Another-----Tips and jigs----Popular Science  October 1962
One Mans Prize Engines  Popular Science 1964
Make This Handy Indicator For Your Home Shop by Walter Burton  Popular Mechanics  January 1968
Short Cuts in the Machine Shop------Popular Science  June 1968
Make Your Own Deep Hole Drill Bits and other tips---Popular Mechanics August 1965
Chip Shields for Milling Machines by Walter Burton   Popular Mwechanics  May 1966
One Machinist tell Another   Popular Science  April 1960
A Tiny Steam Engine by John Burroughs---Popular Mechanics  February 1973
How to Put the Right Finish on Lathe Projects by Walter Burton  Popular Mechanics April 1970
1955 Popular Mechanics Shop Notes Magazine
Short Cuts for Machinists  ---Popular Science  March 1966
This Engine Runs Without Fuel by Joseph Kelleher  Mechanics Illustrated February  1965
Mini Steam Engine Built With Hand Tools by Andy Sprague  Popular Mechanics  July 1970
12 Great Lathe Tricks by Walter Burton  Popular Mechanics July 1970Build Your Own RPM Counter by Howard McEntee  Popular Science  January 1970

                                                                                                      3 of 4
Amazing No-Fuel Space Engine by Harry Walton  Popular Science July 1965
Make This Lathe Indexing Attachment by Charles J Kasanda Popular Mechanics October 1970
Solve Holding Problems With a Threadless Nut by B W Ervin  Popular Mechanics October 1970
Spherical Hole Cutter by Carl copenhaver  Popular Mechanics October 1970
Hand Operated Arbor Press by Louis Ashley  Popular Mechanics September 1970
Make This Model Steam Tractor by Rudy Kouhoupt  Popular Mechanics  February 1971
Die Holder Makes Thread Cutting Easy  by Anton Barkey  Popular Mechanics February 1971
Make Your Own Gemstone Faceting Machine by Moodie E Braun Jr  Popular Mechanics 1971
Add A Limit Switch To Your Lathe by Arthur Voltz  Popular Mechanics  February 1971
Add a Rest to Your Lathe by Walter Burton March 1969 Popular Mechanics
Solve Holding Problems with a Threadless Nut by B W Ervin Oct 1970 Popular Mechanics
12 Great Lathe Tricks by Walter Burton July 1970 Popular Mechanics
Amazing No-Fuel Space Engine You Can Build by Harry Walton July 1965 Popular Science
Steam Engine Plans by Manly Banister Jan and Feb 1963 Popular Mechanics
You Can Make This Incredible Elbow Engine by Jeremy Harris July 1965 Popular Mechanics  (YAAAH RIGHT!!!)  mine doesnt work yet
The Tesla Turbine by R S Hedin Nov 1984   plans
Steam Engine From car Air Conditioner Compressor by R S Hedin 1978 Caldwell Ind.   plans
Model Makers Metal Lathe by Howard Natter Jan 1965 Popular Mechanics

(Same engine different years)
Mystery Engine Breathes Flame by Harry Walton Feb 1950 Popular Science 
An Old Time Engine That Refuses to Die Sept 1959 Popular Science

A Model Hydraulic Ram by Brad Smith July 1990 Gas Engine Magazine
Stuart 5A steam engine plans 1954/1978 MAP LTD.
I apologize if this is too long, the moderator can delete it if he desires.
don


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## Bob Parker (Nov 14, 2007)

Thanks for the reply. Mr. Webster specifies a "O.S. Max .12 CZ Radio Control Car Engine carb with a Bore of .166" . I can not find any listing for this carb. The carb you suggest is about this size. Should I try this carb? Is it proven to be comparable? I have come this far on the build so might as well start with a proven carb.

Thanks Bob


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## rake60 (Nov 14, 2007)

*Machinist to his wife:*

*"Dear, Please don't say that I don't understand you.
For a machinist, not understanding something is fair 
enough reason to tear it apart!"*


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## chuck foster (Nov 16, 2007)

wow very nice workman ship indeed  8) 
it is true when you scale up one size that alot of things change, such as machinery. a friend of mine started to build a quarter scale of a 25 h.p. waterloo engine and after he got some of the drawings done he figured that the engine would be too small for him (he was a big man) so he decided to scale everything up to 1/2 size :shock:  well things really began to get big..........the boiler is 8 feet long and 18" in diameter and the complete engine weighs about 4 ton with no water in it.

he had to upgrade his whole work shop (bigger lathe, mill,press ect.) learn how to make patterns and do casting (built a complete foundry to do the castings). get his pressure vessel welding licence and do all the drawings and get them approved by the government. 
new trailer and bigger truck to haul it to shows, the list just goes on and on.
he got the engine completed and took it to shows for about 1 year and he passed away..............but his daughter, grandson and great grandsons now show the engine at various shows through out ontario.
i will try to get some pictures to post of this engine, it is an amazing acomplishment.
my dad and i are working on a pair of quarter scale engines, they are about 4 feet long and only about 1/4 of the way finished.

   chuck
         from the snowy north


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## Seanol (Nov 16, 2007)

My name is Sean and I have worked in various positions and employment as well.
I worked and eventually ran my own company working in the Car Audio/Electronics field doing everything from award winning stereo installations to race car wiring. 

After 10 years and a good case of burnout I went to work for a motorcycle performance manufacturer. I switched to the automotive division and enjoyed 3 years on the cutting edge of technology.

After that I went to work for a NASCAR engine builder in Las Vegas where I had my first real introduction to machining.

I then moved into Industrial Maintenance where I have been for the last 5 years. I am self taught in everything I do and am fairly well tooled up. I have learned alot already(Thanks to Bogstandards book and everyones posts) and I can't wait to show my work.

I currently have a Takang t105 lathe and a Grizzly 6x26 mill and a ton of other tools (TIG welder, MIG welder, Tubing benders, ect...) and my next task will be to build a Radial Five from Rudy's Vol.4 Shop Wisdom

Sean


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## Davyboy (Nov 18, 2007)

I find that it's not the location of the ties, but the length of the strings is the issue! :lol:


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## chuck foster (Nov 18, 2007)

hi to all   
            you might want to look up jerry howell (he has a web site).
he sells (really cheap) plans for a small carb. i think it is a two jet style.
i have the plans here (haven't built it yet) and i want to try in on my three cylinder fairbanks model (not built either)   
this carb is also used on lee hogson's 9 cylinder radial engine as well. i have been told it is fairly simple to build and works real well. it can also be scaled up or down to suit size of engine and jerry gives some specs to do that as well. to top it all off jerry is a great guy to deal with, fast shipping and fast at returning emails. 
i only know jerry through some emails i have no connection with him and this is not a sales plug for him it is just to let you know he is a great guy to deal with, and it might just work on the webster engine.

         chuck


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## Julian (Nov 19, 2007)

Hi All,

In the best traditions "SCROUNGE IT". Make friends with all the local small engineering works and stockholders. The stockholders chop metal for their bigger customers and will supply them with the specific amounts they want without worrying about the standard lengths. If a big regular customer wants 4.5m lengths they get them. Go into the stockholders and ask about the offcuts they keep. I have bought several useful pieces like this. Chose what you want and pay the weight or length price. It is trade not retail so will be cheaper. Alot of small engineering works make thousands of parts on repetition machines. The machine cannot use the entire 6m length and so there is always a bit up to 150mm long from each bar. Go in and scrounge it or buy the boss a drink. Watch for the small guys going bust. Theres alot thrown in the skips when they do. We have just acquired a very large amount of steel bar from 3mm to 50 mm diametre for nothing. I have been cutting it into manageable lengths for the past three weeks off and on and still not cut it all up. The other place is the scrap yard or as they like to be known now "Recycling Centres". Keep going in and buying small amounts....you just pay the latest weight price. I keep going in as he remembers my face and is more amenable.  Emphasize that you are a model engineer and short of money but that you can help him recycle some metal.

Julian.


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## chuck foster (Nov 19, 2007)

well we had snow about a week ago, then it rained then we had more snow,frost and frozen puddles and now the forecast calls for rain and 60 degree weather for the next 2 or 3 days :shock: 

about 30 miles north and a bit west of here they got a foot of snow one night!
a friend of mine said it snowed so hard that while he was looking out the window he could not see his truck in the driveway but when he opened the window he could just reach out and touch the truck :shock:  :shock:

oh well i guess i will just have to tell the wife it is too cold out and i will have to stay in the shop :roll:

cheers from the sometimes frozen north
                               chuck


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## kellswaterri (Nov 20, 2007)

Hello Paolo,
                Sorry I can not help you with ''Plans'' but this might be very useful to you...it gives the ''blow by blow'' build of the Stuart No 1.

http://www.geocities.com/steves_workshop/

All the best for now,
                            John.


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## Julian (Nov 22, 2007)

Hi All,

Try the webpage

http://www.watchman.dsl.pipex.com/thread.html

Use the download excell file and download it. Lists all threads in order of sizes. Its not my file but I found it on a google search. Gonna print it for the workshop 'library'.


Julian.


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## kellswaterri (Nov 22, 2007)

Hello Orrin,
               I have not done the ''Beam'' but in saying that , I have built the 10V... the Score and now about 75% on the James Coombes... now working on Peter Southworths model single cylinder ''Corliss''.
I have not come across very many problems with the Stuart castings...dimension wise... but with the ''Corliss'' Yes....the reason for this ...from Peter... was that new casting moulds were made which are producing slightly smaller castings...now the drawings call for a certain dimension which the casting is not going to enable you to achieve, so talked to Peter... answer ... *the drawings are only a ''GUIDE''...make the parts to fit.* some of the best advice I have had in model building, so following his advice I very carefully worked out alternative dimensions and after ckecking that everything was in the right place I proceeded to machine, Worked out fine...If it works and looks right Go for it...
All the best for now,
                             John.


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## dparker (Nov 22, 2007)

Hello to All:  Wishing all of you a Happy Thanksgiving and thank you for this forum to enjoy each day.  We are visiting our Daughter (working here) and Son (going to college here) in Nashville.  Made a quick trip to Lowes to buy some stuff to build a bench for the Son to do a little work on.  No place in the condo for a shop so must be removable when not in use.  Thankfull to know that he wants to do some work with his hands.  Have a good day with family and friends wherever you are!
Don


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## Canyonman (Nov 23, 2007)

Thank You


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## Canyonman (Nov 24, 2007)

Hi All,

At no time was it my intent to belittle our moderators. They do a heck of a Good Job!

But it seems no matter how you point something out you will offend someone.

Compound Driver also has a valid point. I enjoy a little peek as much as the next guy! Just not on the Home Model Engine Machinist Forum.

Rake and I have spoken, civilly, to each other and neither of us has a problem with the other. In either point or position.

There is nothing to "Blow Up" here.

Let's get back to Model Engines!

Ken


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## Davyboy (Nov 24, 2007)

Sorry Gents,  I have no video.  In fact, I have no digi cam.  The photos were taken by my sister, emailed to me.  Also, stuck with slooow dial-up internet, living out in the boonies.


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## bob ward (Dec 12, 2007)

When first delving into the bewidering world of turning inserts, I found PaulT's comments in this thread very useful. http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=140736&goto=nextoldest

If the link does not work do a search in the PM forums for this topic:- 

'Purchasing low cost inserts for a lathe and mill'

Having said that for the moment I'm still using the TCMT inserts and holders that came with my lathe, but I'm on the lookout for CCMT stuff at the right price


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## bob ward (Dec 27, 2007)

Reading Tubal Cain's _Workholding in the Lathe_, on page 75 there is the lantern chuck, which would enable you to hang on to your studs while you thread the other end.

Its more complicated than other methods that have been suggested here for your job, but the lantern chuck would have other applications HMEMers as well.

The only web reference I can find for the lantern chuck is here http://www.ofrei.com/page_217.html    There is a drawing and photos near the bottom of the page


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## chuck foster (Dec 31, 2007)

well i for one think that rake you deserve a big round of thanks as well!!!!
hip hip hooray hip hip hooray


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## deere_x475guy (Dec 31, 2007)

Rick thanks again...and Happy New Year!


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## Jack (Jan 5, 2008)

For Christmas my kids decided to get me a new lathe, I choose a Grizzly G4003G 13x40 Gunsmiths lathe (Whatever that means). Well the lathe arrived yesterday at the freight terminal, so I took my car hauling trailer to town to pick it up, when the forktruck driver arrived at my truck he told me that he could only find one of the three crates. The lathe crate is the one that I received, well when I got home I called Grizzly to report my disappointment I was told that they would look into it and get back to me. About an hour later a very nice lady called to tell me that she was trying to find out what happened to the other two crates (for the stands or bases) she promised that she would call back on Monday to report that she had either found them or that they would be sending another set to me. Sure they cost a little more, but you get what you pay for, and I am a very satisfied Grizzly customer. Right now the lathe is in the garage and should be in the basement in a few days, I can't wait to get this thing running so that I can make bigger chips and screw up bigger pieces.

And no I am not an employee of theirs, just a old retired man trying to make shiny things in his basement. Before anyone gets their panties in a bunch, if this current thought of mine doesn't belong here just tell me and I will re post in the proper place or delete it.


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## azironwoiod (Jan 22, 2008)

Thanks for the replies.
I am using a metal lathe.
I think Tin Falcon has me going in right direction. I was trying to think of some suction fixture and the two sided sticky tape I will try. I have the two plates turned down to 1/8. And, I have a 4 jaw, but, I couldn't think of a way it could be held in the jaws and turned to a round disk and it work. I didn't want the disk to come flying out or jam up and X**%^& in the chuck. Just as well start over with a round plate as I should have started with to begin with. 

I will do very very light cuts.

As for cutting, I will use a metal blade in wood bandsaw. Alum seems to be 'sticky' and will grab very quickly.

I do appreciate the suggestions.

I will have more questions to come. And, you may very well be correct on this item for a first project. But, it looked so simple and I thought, wow - my granddaughter would get a bang out of seeing that.

We will see. I look at it as everything I do is a learning experience. So will make it though, lots will probably make it to the junk pile and add to experience.

I'll let all know how it turns out.

Thanks again.
Jim


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## tattoomike68 (Feb 10, 2008)

here are the current stats.


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## bob ward (Feb 27, 2008)

This is getting a bit OT and is really more of academic interest than practical application.

I bought a batch of cheap BXA tool holders a while ago, most of them were too tight for the tool post. The tight fit was not a major a problem, it was just a matter of rubbing the faces of the holders on a sheet of 80 grit wet and dry until they came right.

But my enquiring mind can't figure out a formula to mathematically determine how much too tight the tool holders were/are. Given that I have the dimensions of the 60° dovetails by measuring across a pair of rounds, plus the height of the male and the depth of the female, how do I _calculate_ the amount that needs to come off the face of the tool holder?

Its got to be something to do with calculating the width of the opening in the tool holder and comparing it with T for the post as shown in Bob Warfield's post.


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## Mcgyver (Mar 1, 2008)

I'd had the same idea, there's a few challenges, but i don't think they are insurmountable. 1) unless you're using a hepa filter, it doesn't solve the carbide grinding problem and 2) its potentially a bad idea sending sparks into a container of dust or a plastic hose. 3) they have no where near the required cfm

with a hepa filter and enough hose length that a spark would never make it that far 1&2 are taken care of. 

the real question though is, does it have enough air flow to be effective? i sort of suspect no. A backup plan would be some sort of blower venting to outside. cheap squirrel cage blowers don't have the volume so i would need to be centrifugal. shops vacs are maybe a couple of hundred cfm on a good day, squirrel cage in the high hundreds but commercial grinding dust collectors seem to be in the 1000's

the other thought was even though the vac doesn't have the airflow by traditional standards, might it be possible to use the momentum of the waste to redirect it into the hose? if the collect was positionable and shaped such that the particles just on their own energy ended up the hose the vac could take it from there. i thought this worth trying and started on the sheet metal work work to make some dust collecting shrouds for my T&C grinder....yet another partially finished project in the stack


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## bob ward (Mar 10, 2008)

I've found one of these type of http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=201-2536&PMPXNO=953096&PARTPG=INLMK3  el cheapo 2 axis tables with an el cheapo vice to be very useful for accurately bringing your punch marks to the correct postion under the drill bit. 

As was mentioned above, the good old low tech drill press is quite a dangerous piece of machinery unless your work is well held. Another advantage of the 2 axis table and vice is that you can properly secure the work and still have the fine adjustment that you need to line things up.


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## bob ward (Mar 17, 2008)

I saw some quite intricate spoked flywheels on model engines recently, and talked to the builder about them. 

He had cast them himself in aluminium, and to give the flywheels rotational mass he had inserted steel and/or lead slugs in the rims. Quite clever I thought.


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## bob ward (Mar 17, 2008)

I'm checking the ways on my 14x40 for twist. I'm using an engineer's level whch is not zeroed for dead level but for what I'm trying to do I don't think that is important.

I've placed the level across the ways at the headstock and adjusted the level until the bubble is centred. Then I've gone to the tailstock end and packed the low end of the level (4 thou) to get the bubble centred again.

Is that about it for twist? Any comments?

Its interesting to very gently lever up and down on one corner of the lathe and watch the bubble shoot up from one end to the other. Who would have thought there was that much flex in what looks like a fairly solid casting.


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## Brass_Machine (Mar 25, 2008)

If you want to e-mail to me, I will have a go at them.

Those are pretty cool!


Eric


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## rake60 (Apr 1, 2008)

This is a direct quote from an email I just received from Enco. 

_*"Take advantage of this Free UPS Shipping Offer...just enter WBAP8 in the 
promo code box on the shopping cart page at use-enco.com, or mention 
the code to your friendly sales associate when you call to order at 800-USE-ENCO.*

*Free Shipping and Free UPS Shipping refer to standard ground shipments to locations 
within the 48 contiguous U.S. states only; AK, HI, US territories and international 
shipments are specifically excluded from these offers. On truck shipments, liftgate 
and other non-standard services will incur an additional charge; call for details. 
Enco reserves the right to limit or discontinue Free Shipping promotions. 
Free UPS Shipping offers are limited to shipments under 125 lbs. and cannot be 
combined with other promotional offers from Enco" _ 

Rick


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## bob ward (Apr 1, 2008)

Damascening mainly refers to metal inlays, but I'm sure I have also seen engine turning referred to as damascening.


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## Bogstandard (Apr 5, 2008)

Liverpool, the home of the Beatles is in fact a multi cultural city. It has been a major seagoing port for centuries and all the flotsam and jetsam from around the world has ended up there, also it was the main port of entry for the Irish population trying to escape the ravages that were going on in their country for hundreds of years.
So they ended up with a unique language that is really only understood by themselves, a sense of humour that would get the recently deceased laughing, and a reputation for being out and out cheeky scoundrels.

Liverpuddlians (their correct name) are generally known throughout the UK as 'Scousers'.

So what you see on the 'telly' isn't really what it is like down the side streets and back alleys.


If it isn't bolted down, someone will steal it, in fact if it is bolted down they will try anyway.







If anything with wheels stops for more than 30 seconds, the wheels will be gone. Even stopping at traffic lights has its dangers.







If a Scouse 'Chavette' (look up in google) hasn't got a couple of kids in tow by the time they are sixteen,they would be classed as infertile.







Enough said on this one.







Cheap or free is very acceptable.







Scousers class being on unemployment benefit as legitimate 'work'. Real work interferes with their social life too much, football, drinking, football, stealing, football. 







Remember what I said about standing still for more than 30 seconds.







Their gypsy like background is very hard to shake off, and will try anything to get more duty free when they come back off a package tour to Spain.







They start on promiscuity at a very early age. 12 or 13 would be classed as a maiden aunt.







A couple of the jovial fellows you are liable to meet in this European City of Culture 2008. Just hope you don't meet them down a back alley.







There is always another side to the story.

John


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## kf2qd (Apr 10, 2008)

Seeing as how most rail in the US is owned by the railroad itself, trains run on whichever side gets it from point A to point B the most conveniently for the railroad. The engineer sits to the right side of the cab in the few engines I have been in. Been that way from steam days. Have a double track a mile from the house and have had fast and slow trains on either track and going in either direction (just not at the same time...)


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## kf2qd (Apr 10, 2008)

Had a Mercedes 220D Diesel a few years ago. Had to do major head repair after running it dry onetime... Had to make a tool to pull the pre-chambers for the Bosch Injectors and the threads didn't match anything on my metric pitch gages, so I grabbed the english set and they matched perfectly. Don't remember the pitch, but made the tool to pull the nut that holds the pre-chamber in and made the adapter for the slide hammer to pull the pre-chamber. Now why weren't they a metric thread?


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## PTsideshow (Apr 15, 2008)

This place will be able to satisfy the long looked for bit of this or that the local big box store doesn't carry.
From Carbon Fiber tubing to run your wicks,through. Graphite and graphite adhesives that work To the following.
Fuel cells

  * Composite bipolar plates
  * Graphite bipolar plates

Bushings, bearings, vanes

  * Blanks - antimony filled molded carbon-graphite rods
  * Blanks - antimony filled molded carbon-graphite tubes
  * Blanks - babbit filled molded carbon-graphite rods
  * Blanks - babbit filled molded carbon-graphite tubes
  * Blanks - extruded carbon-graphite rods
  * Blanks - graphite plates for dry running vanes
  * Blanks - molded carbon-graphite plates
  * Blanks - molded carbon-graphite rods
  * Blanks - molded carbon-graphite tubes (HT to 1200°F)
  * Blanks - resin filled molded carbon-graphite plates
  * Blanks - resin filled molded carbon-graphite rods
  * Blanks - resin filled molded carbon-graphite tubes
  * Dryer bearing assemblies
  * Dryer bearing inserts

Crucibles, molds, ingots

  * Graphite and ceramic stoppers
  * Graphite ingots
  * Industrial graphite crucibles (4"DIA and up)
  * Jewelry graphite crucibles (2"DIA and up)

Plates, rods and tubes

  * Graphite blocks - medium extruded
  * Graphite plates - coarse extruded
  * Graphite rods - fine extruded

EDM Graphite

Pyrolytic graphite

  * Pyrolytic graphite discs
  * Pyrolytic graphite plates

Powders and lubricants
Coatings and adhesives

  * Graphite adhesives (to 5400°F)
  * Graphite coatings (to 3200°F)

Insulation and gasketing

  * Flexible graphite sheet
  * Flexible graphite sheet, reinforced
  * Insulation fiber boards
  * Insulation fiber boards, foil on one side (FOS)

Gouging rods

Carbon Fiber Laminates

  * Unidirectional laminates, zero° layup (.003 - .021 thick)
  * Unidirectional laminates, zero° layup (.030 - .060 thick)

Rods and tubes

  * Unidirectional pultruded rectangular bars
  * Unidirectional pultruded rods
  * Unidirectional pultruded tubes
  * Unidirectional pultruded tubes, tapered
  * Unidirectional roll-wrapped tubes

Carbon Brushes
by Application or Size

  * Thickness between 0.000 and 0.188
  * Thickness between 0.189 and 0.250
  * Thickness between 0.251 and 0.375
  * Thickness between 0.376 and 0.500
  * Thickness between 0.501 and 0.625
  * Thickness between 0.626 and 0.750
  * Thickness over .750

Part Number

  * Tool Brush Kits

Motor Manufacturer
Tool Manufacturer
Tool Type
  * Tool Brush Kits

Technical Ceramics
   Labware crucibles
   Plates, rods & tubes
Adhesives and epoxies

  * Alumina adhesives (to 3000°F)
  * Aluminum nitride adhesives (to 3000°F)
  * Electrically and thermally conductive adhesives
  * Graphite adhesives (to 5400°F)
  * High temperature epoxies - General Purpose
  * High temperature epoxies - Maintenance & Repair
  * Magnesium adhesives (to 3200°F)
  * Ultra high bond strength epoxies
  * Ultra high temperature epoxies
  * Washaway mounting adhesives
  * Zirconia adhesives (to 2500°F)

Coatings

  * Coatings for heaters, ovens and furnaces (to 2000°F)
  * Coatings for process equipment (to 1500°F)
  * Electrically and thermally conductive coatings (to 1200°F)
  * Refractory coatings for metals, glasses and plastics (to 3200°F)
  * Specialty coatings for electrical and electronic devices (to 2600°F)
  * Specialty sealants (to 1450°F)
  * Thermal spray sealants (to 400°F)

Castable and repair pastes

  * Ceramic-Metallic repair pastes (to 2000°F)
  * Chemical-setting ceramics (to 2800°F)
  * Hydraulic-setting castable ceramics (to 3200°F)

Furnace tubes

  * Alumina Tubes - Closed One End
  * Alumina Tubes - Open Both Ends
  * Sialon Tubes - Open Both Ends

Sealing tapes, ropes, etc.

  * Ceramic fiber braids - round
  * Ceramic fiber braids - square
  * Ceramic fiber cloth
  * Ceramic fiber ropes - high density
  * Ceramic fiber ropes - twisted 3/ply
  * Ceramic fiber sleeves
  * Ceramic fiber tapes

Thermal greases

http://www.graphitestore.com/index.asp


----------



## SandyC (Apr 20, 2008)

;D ;D

Hi Alan, and welcome to the mad house, how are things going in the Epping,Loughton, Buckhurst hill area these days?
One things for sure....now that your local model shop is closed....and Brian (my old mate) ain't around to take your cash....you will have LOADS more to spend on MACHINING and ENGINES.... ;D ;D ;D ...I am sure the guys on here will help you spend some of it....HE He.

Yes, most of the cheepo grinders are pretty much the same....rubbish......

A good grinder needs to have substantial, adjustable, tool rests and one of the best at the moment is the 6" (or 8") ARBOGA machine available from 'AJAX Machine tools'

www.ajax-mach.co.uk

These have fully adjustable large size supports , unlike the small flimsy things you get on the cheaper grinders.

Another good grinder is the 6" or 8" heavy duty model available from WARCO

www.warco.co.uk

These also have a heavier tool support, fully adjustable, but not quite as large as on the ARBOGA machines.

Both come with a medium and fine pair of wheels (Aluminium oxide type).

If you need to sharpen CARBIDE tools then you need to get a FINE green grit wheel....available from 'CHRONOS'

Hope this helps.

regards.

SandyC  ;D


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## kf2qd (Apr 22, 2008)

One other difference between the US & Britain - due to the large area covered and the population differences you guys only see the shows that get publicized outside of their home area. There are a lot of small antique power shows scattered around the US that draw quite a mix of displays - from the steam tractors and old iron down to the guy traveling in an old bus setup to display his steam models. Most of these shows don't get much publicity outside of the local paper. I have been to shows that had everything from models of steam and gas engines, to 1/4 to full size steam, antique & classic tractors, old truck & cars, (Even an old electric dock truck) to home-made tractors and other vehicles. If you didn't live in western NY or North Western Pennsylvania you wouldn't have heard anything about it. County fairs have their old tractor display (and often model collections)


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## lugnut (Apr 24, 2008)

The truth is that most of us have to buy some Chinese stuff just to have tools that we can afford to buy. Heck both my lathe and mill are Chinese. What I have found out is: that some, not all the Chinese stuff will work for the casual  use of the home shop machinist if not pushed too hard.
The scary thing is, if we continue to drive all our manufacturing across the pond to China and then get into a war like WWII, who the hell is going to make our stuff? We wont have any manufacturing capabilities left here in the USA. 
I try to buy what ever USA tools I can find at Yard and Garage sales, and on line, just so I dont have to depend on the Chinese all the time.  I think we are digging ourselves in to a hole that none of us want to be in.
Just a thought
Mel


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## PTsideshow (May 3, 2008)

Pocket Ref
by: Thomas J Glover
Sequoia Publishing small format paperback
copyright©1997 2nd.ed.
ISBN# 1-88507-00-0

Two more reference books that covers so many things that we need to know and can't seem to find fast. This one was the first version put out. Covers various things and item around the shop, and home.

  * Air and Gas
  * Carpentry and Construction
  * Chemistry and Physics
  * Constants, Chemical,Physical and Math
  * Electrical
  * Electronics
  * General Information and Science
  * Geology
  * Glue, solvents and Paint
  * Hardware,Math, Money
  * Mine, Mill and Aggregate
  * Plumbing and Pipe
  * Rope,Cable and Chain
  * Steel and Metals
  * Tools and Water
  * Weights and properties of Materials
  * Welding
  * And other stuff

It its revised every coupe of years. It does have drawings of items.
and it is set up in groupings of the above headers and some I didn't put in. A great general info base for not much money. Harbor Fright sells them. And a lot of places have them in the tool section or at the register as an impulse buy.





Handyman In your Pocket
Industrial maintenance edition
by Richard A Young
Thomas J Glover
Sequoia Publishing small format paperback
ISBN#1-88507-29-9
Copyright© 2001 1st ed

This version is twice as thick and set up and geared to the industrial or commercial side. Every section is expanded in coverage. They have added some and left some out.

  * Anchors
  * Belts,Pulleys and Gears
  * Bolts and Threads
  * Drafting Symbols
  * Nails Spikes and Staples
  * Pipe and fittings
  * Pump and Tanks
  * Sheet Metal, Plate and Wire
  * Along with more


If you ever have wondered why there are so many different plug configurations this has the charts with drawings of them all or most of them that you would likely see.
In the Sheet Metal Plate and Wire section it covers

  * Weights of cold rolled sheet steel
  * Weights of galvanized sheet steel
  * Steel plate sizes
  * Standard steel sheet gauges
  * Standard wire gauges


Measure for Measure
by Richard A Young
Thomas J Glover
Sequoia Publishing small format paperback
ISBN# 1-889796-00-X
copyright ©1997




This is the desk references for non math people, It covers the SI units, Which is the International system of units. Covers the history, both here and abroad along with the basics. (Metric info)
The rest is close to most every conversion formula out there. Whether its is ancient units of ones from other countries that have their own systems. Or if the guy that brought you the plans for the ramps for his ark did them in cubits. this will show you how to convert them back into something you can use.
It has a section that groups like measures together. It also has one on the Abbreviations used, along with conversion factors. Running close to 900 pages it is still a tool box sized book if need be.


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## kf2qd (May 4, 2008)

Stefan -

Nice looking mill you have there. What Kind is it? Look forward to seeing how this project progresses.


----------



## kf2qd (May 9, 2008)

Would love to see more info on how you did that twin Briggs. Thats rather cool. [email protected]


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## bob ward (May 15, 2008)

This talk of tanks and water and ungulae reminds me of that other marvellous word, ullage.


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## PTsideshow (May 17, 2008)

http://www.thistothat.com/


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## PTsideshow (May 17, 2008)

Machining instructions for engineering plastics
Adhesive bonding instructions for engineering plastics   
Plastic Brochures
Machining guide for Quadrant engineering plastics
Three of the great downloads from this site!
http://www.bayplastics.co.uk/downloads.htm


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## PTsideshow (May 18, 2008)

MatWeb's searchable database of material properties includes data sheets of thermoplastic and thermoset polymers such as ABS, nylon, polycarbonate, polyester, polyethylene and polypropylene; metals such as aluminum, cobalt, copper, lead, magnesium, nickel, steel, superalloys, titanium and zinc alloys; ceramics; plus semiconductors, fibers, and other engineering materials.
http://www.matweb.com/index.aspx
glen


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## GailInNM (Jun 4, 2008)

Since the subject of slip-sticks came up and this is the breakroom, a quick story. In my display case of family items I have two slide rules. they are both identical except for their ages. They are both bamboo K&E single sided with just the basic scales on them. The newer one was given to me by my mother when I started Physics class in high school in 1955. The older one was hers. She used it while on the design team for the North American B-25 bomber designed and built during World War II. 

As the story goes, and I have no reason to doubt it, the main office building at the North American plant had a top down pecking order structure. The most senior executives and their staff were on the top floor. The next floor down had the engineers and the drafting positions which needed to be next to the engineers. As an engineers time was quite valuable during the rush of war, they offloaded the complex calculation to the computers which were on the next floor down. They would set up the equations that needed to be solved, graphed or other numerical functions applied and send them down the the next floor to the computers. I am sure that most of you are wondering what I am talking about because computers as we know them today did not exist during those years. 

The computers were people with math degrees, mostly women, who solved the equations and crunched the numbers needed by the engineers and then sent the results back to the engineers. Most of them used slide rules as mechanical calculators were scarce during the war. The mechanical calculators were only used where a higher degree of precision was necessary and the slip-stick could not be used. My mother was one of these computers.

So you see it was only natural that I became involved using computers as a tool later in life. After all, MY MOTHER WAS WAS A COMPUTER.  ;D


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## Paolo (Jun 29, 2008)

..after some interruption due to other stuffs...pieces are going together...


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## Mcgyver (Jul 5, 2008)

Hilmar, I made the crank from solid excepting the counter weights which are attached. I destroyed both the silver solder crank blank that came with it and the cast iron counter weights. Weights cracked when peening them on.  Made a new set from steel, worked perfectly. Ill post a pic of the pretzel, er first crank, but its on a computer sans motherboard at the moment.

Come on man, I need you to work through that problem and get back on course - there may be other nasty bits I need you show me how to made 

Ok progress pics. In the previous post, the pics show the oil cups I made for the main bearings, but I felt eccentric straps and big ends should also have some way of delivering oil.

Here are the little cups I made for the eccentrics, the small OD is 1/16, the six are sitting on a dime.






Heres a shot of them installed - its triple so there's 3 or 6 of everything!






The big ends required a bit more thought as the counter weights narrow in on the connecting rod once the bearing is cleared  you can see that in the pic of the crankshaft above

So I decided to have a base, pipe and cup at the top and to twist it around to the side so it would clear the counter weight. 

Here are the parts are being assembled. The brass tube is only .047 OD and thats #67 reamer to clean out the brass tube ID after cutting. You can see the visor magnifier in the background that gives me a fighting chance on these parts






And here they are installed Incidentally, the geometry formed by the tapered connecting rod where it meets the U shape at the top was one very challenging aspect of this engine  the parts have to blend together with a radius to look right. Maybe a five axis cnc? Still would require hand work to blend it me thinks. This was a close to sculpting as my machining as ever come, tedious needle file and emery work!

The cup had to be where it is to clear the counter weights and looks somewhat like prototypical practice






More fun and games today, put engines a side and spent the day tuning up a Starrett #20 master precision squares and M&W #400  long day, now I know why the cost so much new


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## bob ward (Jul 12, 2008)

I think as a first step I would buy an array of small metric bolts and see which of them fit the unknown threads.

The next step, for the threads you can't identify that way, is off the top of my head, I have not tried it. If it is a viable method I'm sure I'm not the first person to have thought of it.

Selecting a bolt of the correct OD, turn off the threads down to the minor diameter, but leave most of the front thread. Your bolt becomes a bolt with one thread.

My theory is that the single thread bolt should? engage with the tapped thread without damaging it. Counting the number of turns you can screw the bolt in, and measuring the depth of engagement will give you the pitch.


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## Mcgyver (Jul 17, 2008)

here's some pics on whats available, if interested let me know. I could be strong armed into paying for the shipping in NA and have appropriate packaging from something that just arrived so no packing/shipping costs to be added provided it comes out to less than say $50 which it should be.  Everything but the height gauge and mag base is quality NA, British or Japanese brands. The indicators work perfectly and the mics tests dead on with gauge blocks. The square is better than .0002" over the 6" blade, tested by me with Mitutoyo bevel edge inspection square.

PM if interested, thanks











the packaging on these looks a lot like the chinese stuff but this is RTC made in Japan


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## Paolo (Jul 22, 2008)

..steam valve and reversing mechanism quite done...


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 23, 2008)

my current day job I work for a scale company. Most of the time is spent on PM, inspection calibration of scales we also do repairs installs rentals etc.. The accounts are varied, nursing homes ,flavoring plants soda companies, chemical plants ,postal /mailing houses,labs etc. 
the scales range from micro balances that weight fractions of a gram to railroad scales that are in 100 lb increments. 
Tin


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## rickharris (Jul 30, 2008)

http://www.pts-uk.com/index.htm offer very small sized threaded components - Bolts - Machine screws Hex heads at reasonable prices around £7 ish per 100.

They go down to M1 x 2 to M1 x 10 in various materials

Interesting!


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## GailInNM (Aug 5, 2008)

Augest 2008  Free UPS Shipping* on your entire Enco order of
$50 or more. Just enter WB8AGP in the promo code box on the
shopping cart page at use-enco.com. 125 Lbs or less.


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## Dick L. (Aug 12, 2008)

Kevin , Did you find the plans on line or is that your own design? I've always thought that would be a nice setup. How is the cornering stability? 
         Dick


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## bronzecaster (Aug 21, 2008)

It's been a long time since I've posted to any board (heck since I've even joined any board) but I'm impressed with the friendliness of this one. So it's time to join in. I've been building model engines for a while, both bar stock and my own castings/designs. I've learned enough to know that I'm still a amateur machinist, but by listening to you all maybe someday that rating will change.

from southeast, MO

Chuck


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## Metal Mickey (Aug 22, 2008)

bronzecaster  said:
			
		

> It's been a long time since I've posted to any board (heck since I've even joined any board) but I'm impressed with the friendliness of this one. So it's time to join in. I've been building model engines for a while, both bar stock and my own castings/designs. I've learned enough to know that I'm still a amateur machinist, but by listening to you all maybe someday that rating will change.
> 
> from southeast, MO
> 
> Chuck



Welcome, welcome, welcome. They are a brilliat bunch and helped me no end already and I am also a novice (albeit and old one) :big:


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## kf2qd (Aug 27, 2008)

Bronze bushings and oilite bushings are not the same thing. A bronze bushing is made from bronze - nothing else. An oilite bushing is made from sintured bronze and the gaps filled in with oil. A bronze bushing will take more load & speed than will an oilite bushing and will outlast is. A bronze bushing will need some lubricant for the best lifespan. a bronze bushing is relatively hard, an oilite bushing is relatively soft and will fracture much more easily than will a bronze bushing.


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## malcolmt (Aug 28, 2008)

Hi Tony

Wow you have made a fantastic job of that, Very well done indeed.
I like the look of your Compound vice for the drill, does anyone know if they are available in the UK ? 
That sure does look like it makes the job of rounding off the levers really first class.
Please ..... More pictures and when you finish A VIDEO. Pretty PLEASE( that's akin to begging i know but this engine looks so good) :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Kind regards

Malcolm


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## malcolmt (Aug 28, 2008)

Thanks John. 
 For such a small cost it would seem churlish not to have one. 
Your new lathe looks superb (TOOL ENVY again) I am sure i don't have to ask for you to do your usual detailed and always interesting diary of it's installation and fettling, Which i am very much looking forwards to.
Kind regards

Malcolm


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## kf2qd (Aug 30, 2008)

I have found that I like lower speeds on coarser threads and higher speeds on finer threads. Has a lot to do with carriage speed, Coarse thread means that the carraige moves farther per turn of the spindle. And I find thqat threading is actually easier on a large lathe as compared to a small lathe. Why? I'm not sure...


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## kf2qd (Sep 1, 2008)

Many years ago =- back when Jeep engines were 4 cylinder flat heads you could get a special head and convert them to a 2 cylinder air compressor. Cyls 2&3 were compressor, 1&4 were engine.


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## b.lindsey (Sep 1, 2008)

Several posts 4-5 months back showed various versions of home made hand tappers. This had been a back burner project for a while and I finally got around to it. Not as elegant as some but it seems to work nicely so far. As the pictures show, I used some off the shelf items to simplify the assembly and function. The tapping shaft is drill rod running in a 3/8" drill bushing for a nearly perfect fit and little if any wear over time. The tap holder is an old Starrett #93-A I had good for 0-80 up to 5-40 taps (possibly #6 or #8 taps as well, just haven't tried it yet). The base is steel though aluminum would work just as well, and the column if 1" dia. steel. The 2 thumb screws were purchased as well, one for securing the arm height, the other for reatining the drill bushing in the arm. If the need arises a separate larger mounting collar could be used for mounting the next larger size tap holder.




















Regards,
Bill


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## ksouers (Sep 12, 2008)

Sky's the limit, right?

Hmm, Rolls Royce Merlin.

Any Pratt & Whitney radial. OK, one of each.

The BMW radial they put in the Focke Wolfe 190.


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## Bogstandard (Sep 12, 2008)

K,

Drool away

http://dynamotive.netfirms.com/merlin/

But make sure your wallet stays in your pocket. Big time prices for castings.

Bogs


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## rake60 (Sep 12, 2008)

Mine would be to build a fuel burning model of the Wankel Rotary Engine.

At the age of 13 I saved every penny I could to buy the Revell see through model kit.
Assembled it looked just like this one.






There were batteries hidden in the transmission that powered the engines turning
and it had little red lights (yes before LED's) that would flash when the engine should
fire.

DAMN!
Now I'm going to have to go eBay'ing to try to find one of those models! LOL

Rick


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## ksouers (Sep 12, 2008)

Thanks, John.

Yikes! They are mighty proud of those castings! Fear not, wallet is quite safe.


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## Brass_Machine (Sep 12, 2008)

If I had the time and the skills... I would build a rotary or a high HP L twin engine. But that is just me.

Eric


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## steamer (Sep 13, 2008)

Check here


http://www.agelessengines.com/

Dave


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## Brass_Machine (Sep 13, 2008)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Check here
> 
> 
> http://www.agelessengines.com/
> ...



Nice!

Thanks Dave!

Eric


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## steamer (Sep 13, 2008)

Your Welcome!

I'm thinking about the 9 and 18 .....I'll probably get to it in my second life...about middle age ;D


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## steamer (Sep 13, 2008)

Very Reasonably priced I think.  I would need to sell alot of plans to recoup the engineering that went into those engines. Best of all only one casting.  the cover.


Dave


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## wareagle (Sep 13, 2008)

I really like the Ageless Engines. Especially the 18 cylinder radial. It would be a great day to fire that baby up!! But I think it would take me three lifetimes to finish...


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## rickharris (Sep 13, 2008)

rake60  said:
			
		

> Mine would be to build a fuel burning model of the Wankel Rotary Engine.
> 
> At the age of 13 I saved every penny I could to buy the Revell see through model kit.
> Assembled it looked just like this one.
> ...



Its still on sale - I have one I built for school a few years ago.


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## Twinsquirrel (Sep 13, 2008)

For me it would be a Porsche designed 4 cylinder horizontally opposed, perhaps the VW type 1 engine or maybe the Porsche 356 engine which are basically the same but with different cooling layout and a few internal changes. Not the prettiest of engines but IMO both masterpieces of simplicity of design.

Perhaps not as ambitious as some dream projects but I still don't think I will ever get to a level where I could contemplate starting something on that scale.


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## Bogstandard (Sep 13, 2008)

I think we all have great dream projects, I had one for more years than I care to remember. Then I saw the light, and realised I would never complete it, so I let go.

Twinsquirrel, 

Don't let your dreams go if you can help it, if the will is there, there is always a way.

Getting to a level where you can make something is a mind block. I am sure that if most people on here actually took the plunge and tried it, they would succeed. Difficult to make parts, if broken down into individual operations always look a lot easier.

There are always people who will help if you got really stuck.

John


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## Twinsquirrel (Sep 13, 2008)

I know you are right John, I guess I'm still licking my wounds a bit from some of the VERY dubious decisions I have made over the past year or so. That's what's so great about this forum it has the power to inspire!!



> Getting to a level where you can make something is a mind block. I am sure that if most people on here actually took the plunge and tried it, they would succeed. Difficult to make parts, if broken down into individual operations always look a lot easier.



After constantly referring to your book on the twin I can see that taking the plunge and just giving it a go is the hardest part. As a side note and of course it has been said before, I really think you should get that published! When I met Mrs. Squirrel she was the editor of a "niche" magazine (no...not that kind) and she was always on the look out for pull out guides or part works and from my point of view your guide would be ideal for that.

David
Great post by the way Sorveltaja


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## Bogstandard (Sep 13, 2008)

TS,

Don't want to hijack the post on this bit, but one of my dreams was to make an engine on the run, and starting off with an idea and modifying as I went along, and designed so that if a newbie would take the chance, he could end up with a working engine. I achieved my ambition, over a course of less than three months.

To say that my ramblings, discussions, thoughts and hacking about with bits of metal would ever be classed as suitable for publication never crossed my mind, even though it was suggested by certain members.

To me, I fulfilled a dream, and that was the end of it. Hence it is the public domain, where if people want to enjoy or criticise my little effort, then so be it. I am happy as I am.

John


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## steamer (Sep 13, 2008)

Thanks you Bog for your vision and effort :bow:

Many have benefitted from it.

Dave


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## steamer (Sep 13, 2008)

Twinsquirrel:

How about this?


http://www.daledetrich.com/4_cylinder.htm


Dave


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## steamer (Sep 13, 2008)

AT $45, with photo's on CD, the plans set if cheaper than most text books on machining!
A lot could be learned by just reading them.
It is a boxster 4 anyway, though I don't think Porche had brass in mind...... ;D
You might want to look at the "Mastif" too.


Dave


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## rickharris (Sep 13, 2008)

Dream? A really big, perhaps full size beam engine. i have only seen one running in the science museum and never under steam Awesome engineering.


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## Twinsquirrel (Sep 13, 2008)

Hi Rick,

I think the only large beam engine still being used for it's original purpose in its original location is not far from me, at Crofton near Marlborough. They have it in steam quite often during the summer months and I can tell you it's well worth a visit.

David


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## John S (Sep 13, 2008)

Well never got to build the model but did work on the 12" to the foot engines in my early days.

A friend has one he takes to rallies so i did him this badge.







.


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## BobWarfield (Sep 13, 2008)

Would love to build:

1. A Merlin

2. A turbojet

3. A scale model radial of some famous engine

But, the one I've been dreaming of and designing is an Orrery inspired by the Antikythera Mechanism that was unearthed from an ancient ship. Here is a 3D model (no, it isn't real!) of a similar astronomical clock:






And here is the page where I keep my design notes: http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCOrreryNotes.html

I believe I have all the proper gear ratios figured out for what would be quite an interesting mechanism. Here is a schematic of the ratios I drew:






And some of the preliminary mechanism drawings done with Rhino3D:











Non-trivial project, eh? And no way will I attempt it until my CNC machines are working well and I've done a number of other complex projects. Those engines would be a good warmup though!

Cheers,

BW


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## ChooChooMike (Sep 14, 2008)

My dream project is to build a live steam locomotive - one of the size you ride upon. Yes, it's feasible, but my machining chops are still way lacking to even think about that size. I need to build a few more steam engines of increasing complexity before trying a locomotive model. Kozo's locomotive books (Shay/Heisler/Climax) are a great way to do that !

Wanting to build a locomotive is the reason I started in this hobby 4 years ago :big:

Mike


----------



## Bernd (Sep 14, 2008)

I'm with you Mike. I would like to build a 1 1/2" scale live steamer. Have all of Kozo's books and the casting for a 1.5" scale Shay. Plus six acers to place track on. Of courrse then there's the live steam crawler and the .............. Oh, I'm back now. :big:

Bernd


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## Kludge (Sep 14, 2008)

Well, if the FAA hadn't seen fit to ground me 30 years ago (medical), it would be a brace of R-2600s complete with attached B-25. But they did and having such an airplane would be a bit of an extravagance now as a result so a 1/4 size version would be a good consolation prize. It would still be made as a post-war civilian version (better aerodynamics) and have a camera package in the bomb bay like the Ziroli version I have the plans for now, but I'd be able to add extra capabilities to it and generally have a lot more fun with the Coasties. ;D

Of course, I don't have anywhere to build anything like that nor do I have the tooling to even consider the little pieces but it's a cool dream anyway.

BEst regards,

Kludge ... who thinks the B-25 is the best looking aircraft to come out of WW II and even now doesn't have much in the way of competition.


----------



## cfellows (Sep 14, 2008)

Kludge,

I'd have to agree that the B-25 is one very nice looking aircraft, one of my favorites. However, to me, the P-38 edges it out just a little. Of course, totally different types of warplane!

Chuck


----------



## Kludge (Sep 14, 2008)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> However, to me, the P-38 edges it out just a little. Of course, totally different types of warplane!



What always bothered me about it wasn't that it's not a lovely airplane - it is - but two engines seemed a bit of overkill. I think Adm Yamamoto (That's right, isn't it? My memory's not kicked into gear yet.) would agree since that's what shot him down. 

One of the more amazing aircraft was the Douglas SBD which was the only Navy bomber to have a positive kill ratio against the Japanese because it handled more like a fighter plus had that nasty stinger in back. A number of SBD pilots eventually transfered to fighter squadrons based on their experience with that aircraft. 

Its replacement, the TBF/TBM, is another airplane I'd be tempted to model in 1/4 scale if I had the facilities, though I'm not sure which version. It probably would wind up a hybrid like the ones used for a while as fire bombers. That would be dream #2, I guess. 

Best regards,

Kludge


----------



## steamer (Sep 15, 2008)

Mike
A 1 1/2 scale loco is definitely doable.
And not as hard as maybe you think it is.

Do one thing at a time and before you know it, your going down the line.

Dave


----------



## dparker (Sep 19, 2008)

Sorveltaja: Not meaning to be a smart alec, but, my Son (then about 3 years old) told my Dad "read the destructions Grandpa".
My Daughter helped me buy a new camera two weeks ago and I have read the "destructions" and still do not really know how, when or why you should turn the knob or push the buttons.
I did a little experimenting and took some pictures of some of my old pictures and was fairly pleased with the results.
I can feel your pain.
Good Luck------don


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## bentprop (Sep 19, 2008)

When taking close up shots,it is generally necessary to have a tripod,or other steady,to avoid camera shake.Even just holding the camera down on a flat surface will help.The short focus magnifies any movement to the point where your photos become blurry.Also,with digi-cameras,the shutter button usually has 2 distinct "phases",very light pressure will focus,and full depression takes the shot.On my camera at least,I need to hold the 1st position for a second or so,to give it time to focus properly.This may not be necessary with the more expensive cameras though.
I also switch off flash for all close up shots.If they come out too dark,you can always lighten the photo with your camera software.
I have taken shots from as little as 3" away with this setup,and they look ok.Be aware though,that your depth of field becomes an issue with any close up photography.
Hans.


----------



## ksouers (Sep 19, 2008)

Sorveltaja,
I'm not familiar with your camera, but I can tell you a bit about mine. You may find some features are similar.

I have a Kodak point-and-shoot, it is just a basic camera that is great for traveling or picnics or holidays and just plain keeping handy. It has a knob on top for several settings that I really have no idea how each differs from the other. Though there are two that I use regularly. One is just a standard all-around picture, the other is for close-ups. I use the close up setting in the shop.

Since the camera is fully automatic it also has auto focus. To use it in close up mode I have to press the shutter button "about half way" and hold to let the camera focus, then I can press it the rest of the way to take the picture. In close up mode only the LCD is used to frame the picture. When I press the button for focus a couple brackets show up around the point where the camera has chosen to focus. If that's not what I want to focus on I release the button and try it again, perhaps moving the camera slightly. I usually use a tripod and take several pictures, with and without flash, and from different angles. Out of 15-20 pictures I may get one or two that I like.

Perhaps yours works in much the same way. Try it and see what happens.


----------



## gbritnell (Sep 19, 2008)

Sorveltaja, I also have a Canon S2IS. It is my 3rd digital and it does everything I need to do when photographing. As was already stated, for closeups you definitely need a tripod. I have a little table with a light blue covering to set my pieces on. For lighting I use 3 reflector type work lights with 23 watt daylight flourescent bulbs. They are the equivalent of 75 watt bulbs. I set my camera on manual and adjust my white balance to the flourescent setting. I also bracket 3 shots at different light settings. You can see some of my closeup shots if you go to the following link. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2181.0
gbritnell


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## shred (Sep 20, 2008)

I had one of the Canons. What I found was even in Macro mode, the focus distance is longer than I expected. But, the upside is there are plenty of pixels to throw away-- So, I shoot the part from zoomed out (there's more in focus when zoomed-out) from a foot and a half or two feet away and then crop the image down to size in the computer later on. 

You also want lots of light on the scene. The more light, the more is in focus as well.


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## Dhow Nunda wallah (Sep 22, 2008)

An old tip, from an even older photographer.

Depth of field when close up means that very little of your subject will be in focus, especially with a cheap camera.
Try, as above, setting up a firm support for the camera; then shoot through a small hole in black card.
Any kind of card or shim metal will do, just cover with black marker pen or paint to avoid stray reflections.

Not quite a pinhole, but start small; say 2 or 3 mm. This aperture should be right hard up against the front of your lens ring. If your camera doesn't like the setup, gradually increase the size of the hole.

This will require plenty of light, but that shouldn't be a problem. You don't need flash, just use plenty of artificial lights.
Soften if necessary, with cloth, or bounce lights off a white wall/ceiling/reflector.

Hope this helps.
Rgds, Lin


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## ChooChooMike (Oct 3, 2008)

P.M. Research has acquired the assests of Red Wing Motor company.

I don't know much about Red Wing - looks like they have a line of IC engines and related accessories. 

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/redwingmotor/

Seems to be a good fit with PM Research's steam/Stirliing models.


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 5, 2008)

I love the team work here folks copying material and sending around(after clearing it with the copyright holder) .

I have downloaded these myself and have been watching them. although good for many of the basics I see a couple minor things I do not like. The main one I notice is, in my book a safety violation. On one hand the instructor cautions the viewer about the dangers of the turned chips and freshly machined edges. He then handles repeatedly said chips and freshly machined corners/edges I was cringing as I watched and waited for the blood to start dripping. This is a classic case of do what I say not what I show you. 
The other things are minor omissions and details I would do differently in my own shop. 
Tin


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## rake60 (Oct 8, 2008)

The new garage door was installed today.
It sure cleaned up the looks of it!






Now the old door was a heavy wooden contraption that took some effort to raise and
a good bit of manual breaking power to close.
Not so much with this one! :
First time I opened it using the force I'm used to showed an issue.






I might need to move that light! :big:

Rick


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## wareagle (Oct 9, 2008)

From the pictures, I would say you did a great job on it! 

Planetary gearing is a cool thing! I find planets fasinating to watch for some odd reason.


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## Kludge (Oct 9, 2008)

wareagle  said:
			
		

> Planetary gearing is a cool thing! I find planets fasinating to watch for some odd reason.



I'm more into stars myself ... 

Anyway, planetary drives have some interesting features, dependent on what's held stationary, what is driven and where the output is taken. With a sufficiently ... I don't want "complex" but that's the idea ... system of clutches, they can offer several combinations of ratio and direction changes from one set. Well, actually only one direction change unless you count not going anywhere at all as a direction. 

Sorveltaja, you're right about not seeing any complete sets, though. I think Boston Gear has the ring gears, though, which is a start. After that, it's figure out what will fit for the sun and planetary gears and build to suit. Or do as you did and create your own ring to fit existing gears. This would be an interesting project to watch.

Best regards,

Kludge


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## Twinsquirrel (Oct 10, 2008)

Looks like super work to me, what was it going to be used for or was it just a "because I can" project (the best kind).

David


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## kf2qd (Oct 13, 2008)

Outlets are cheap. Put in all you need now and 50% more for the things you will need to do but haven't thought of yet. Put in several circuits while you're at it and you will never regret doing it. Electrical work is really rather simple if done correctly.


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## kf2qd (Oct 13, 2008)

I have thought of it on a number of occasions, just have had too many other things that were more important. Would work fine for an air engine.


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## biometrics (Oct 21, 2008)

When I was 8 years old, in 1955, my family and I took a driving trip from our home in Philadelphia, back to the old home place in a southern West Virginia mining town where they had lived prior to World War Two. As we approached the town, my father, rest his soul, called me to listen very carefully to what he was about to say

He told me that when we visited the small company-owned house were my grandparents had lived with their four sons, that the next door neighbor would likely come over to see us and if he did, I was not to stare at his left hand, and under no circumstances was I to ask about his hand no matter what 

When I asked him why, and he told me that the neighbor had cut the top half of his index and middle fingers off of his hand while cutting kindling for the wood stove the first finger was cut off while holding the target piece of wood because he was distracted by a noise just as the hatchet had fallen. He told me that the news of the tragedy raced through the neighborhoods of the small town very rapidly my father was at work in the mines when the accident had occurred Then, as a child would do, I asked how he cut the second finger off

My fathers reply was that the neighbor had cut off half of the middle finger _while showing my father how he had cut off the first one!_

As we visited my familys old friends that day sure enough, the next door neighbor came over to see us I can assure you that I could not take my eyes off of his left hand the whole time we were there _but I can also assure you that I NEVER asked him anything about it._

A True Story


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## kf2qd (Oct 21, 2008)

You will know when you are finally mastering the machinists arts when you learn how to cover you "mistakes".

Or better yet, It wasn't a mistake, you just re-engineered it on the fly...


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## arc12 (Oct 25, 2008)

Hey - that's a splendid contribution. I looked at the Elmers Beam and dismissed it as having too many tiny fiddly bits. At this scale, they get less ANNOYING.

However, now you've made it bigger I am tempted to put in some embellishments just to make it harder again. e.g. make the beam and cylinder more authentic. 

Brian - did you post the CAD files anywhere? (I'm a 2D cad person right now). If I create anything useful as a derivative then I would, of course, repost.

Cheers, Adam


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## potman (Nov 3, 2008)

A novice novice's thoughts on the original question, "Why does the engine jump?". 

In the video the camera is moving around so much it's hard for me to tell in just what manner it is jumping (but I really liked the view of the governor in action). 

If the engine was trying to slide horizontally on the table then I might think it was due to the rocket effect caused by the piston moving and the cylinder head not. The old for-every-action-there-is-an-opposite-and-equal-reaction thing.

But if one end of the engine tends to lift (which is what I think is happening) then it is a result of the torque generated on the crankshaft. When the engine fires the connecting rod pushes against the crank which tries to turn the flywheels faster but due to inertia the flywheels resist this change in motion resulting in an opposite force back on the rod. This opposite force then acts to rotate the whole engine causing the jump. Same as when a heavily loaded semi truck starts to pull away and you see the whole tractor cab lean over to the side. 

In either case it sounds like you had a pretty powerful engine. Your choice of reducing the compression ratio was one way to solve the problem, but if the jump was due to torque wouldn't lightening the flywheels have also helped? Maybe even taking one of them off? Of course that would have resulted in a higher revving engine which you may not want. Oh, and wouldn't decreasing the fuel have helped as well?

Anyway, those are my never-been-there, never-done-that thoughts. Anybody is welcome to correct me if I'm wrong.


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## JMI (Nov 4, 2008)

My first crack at turning eccentric pieces and I'm pleased, but darn it if these little parts are not rough on the eyes.







Jim


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## kf2qd (Nov 4, 2008)

Another trick that delivers a smoother finish on wood turnings is to use the normal sanding procedure down to the fine sandpaper, but then run the lathe in reverse - helps to take all the little fuzzies off that all lay down the same direction and bends them over the opposite direction and give a much smoother finish when varnished, oiled or whatever.


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## kf2qd (Nov 8, 2008)

You might look for the GEARS program - its a DOS based program, takes your parameters and outputs a dxf file of the gear. There are several places you can download it.


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## kf2qd (Nov 15, 2008)

A methanol based fuel is also nice from a safety point of view as compared to gasoline. Lower vapor pressure, less volitile, doesn't burn quite as redily, and burns a lot less explosively. Makes it safer to store in places you would never store gasoline. Methanol can also help with cooling and engine - Knew a guy that ran a sprint car on methanol and would actually have frost on the manifold before the engine got warmed up.

You do need to be somewhat careful about compression ratios. if you get to high a compression ratio with a glow engine you will get detonation or pre-ignition and it will generate a lot more heat and also be rather hard on the mechanical components.


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## PTsideshow (Nov 18, 2008)

This link will be a good source for toy steam engines from around the world. http://www.toysteambible.org/ it is a work in progress but is a great site for more eye candy or what is it I just bought!
glen


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## PTsideshow (Nov 22, 2008)

They seem to have most everything of an electronic nature. I have gone over the site some what, they probably are the supply house that the repair stations buy from so the factory doesn't have to deal with it. especially if it is an older model.
Here is a page on Hobart PC boards some stuff is in stock some not.
http://www.plccenter.com/repair/default.aspx?Manufacturer=hobart&PartNo=&PartNoConj=Starts&Desc=&Specials=false&InStock=false&TopCategory=&Category=


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## kf2qd (Nov 30, 2008)

You might try looking into one of the variable belt speed controls like used in lawnmowers today. They have a double groove pulley - BUT - the center piece of teh pulley floats side to side - there are 2 belts - one from the drive pulley and one to the driven - as you shift the pulley back and forth the ratio changes and thus the oputput speed changes. Lawn mowers have used teh idea for years as it is cheaper than a hydrostatic drive but gives a good range of speeds.


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## kvom (Dec 6, 2008)

I programmed the VFD this morning, then hit the run button. Mill motor runs and spindle turns in the correct direction, both fwd and rev. So far only "issue" is a bit of a rattle in the pulleys. I called the prev. owner this morning, and he says it was like that, so we'll see what happens when I try to make some chips later on.


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## bob ward (Dec 7, 2008)

I've bought O1 silver steel/drill rod from Bohler-Uddeholm in Brisbane. I think they only usually carry the oil hardening variety.


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## Mainer (Dec 8, 2008)

...I just checked the Loctite website www.loctite.com and looked up information on retaining compounds (609, etc.) I was surprised to see that Loctite DOES recommend them (some of them, anyway) for press fits. That contradicts what I'd seen previously, and "common sense," but they ought to know. (Or they're' trying to sell Loctite. ;D ) For details, check the website.


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## kf2qd (Dec 13, 2008)

What is the parking like at the show? How much does it cost? Never been there before so I was just wonderring how it is to get in and out.


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 13, 2008)

If you are displaying here are a few hints. 
Water /beverage/snack it is hard to get away from the table to eat. 
the show supplies 1/4 npt taps to the air lines
bring air regulators with separator(One year we drained a half a pint of compressor oil from the line my son was hooked to.) fittings, teflon tape barb fittings aquarium valves aquarium tubing. Barb fittings etc (this is the stuff I use) 
Tools to fix engines and assemble disassemble air lines. 
 lock tite has saved me more than once. 
Scissors, markers, pens, note paper, business /contact cards if you have them
I bring cloth table covers to dress up the table and my display is elevated. Also a cover to cover the display before the show starts or at the end of the day. The venue has plenty of metal chairs but a chair pad or camp chair can help the sitter. 
Tin


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## kf2qd (Dec 22, 2008)

By drilling with a bit of patience and then reaming in one setup you should be able to get good alignment of the 3 crankshaft journals. You don't have to horse your way through when drilling them, and then the reaming process should clean things up.


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## kvom (Dec 28, 2008)

Still no lathe electric hookup. After returning from a short family trip to Florida I got some time in the shop.

First order of business was to move a 2-door metal cabinet from the old to the new garage and store all my oil containers inside.

Next I checked the milling vise for tram, having trammed the table to the spindle some time ago. My cheap DI showed .002 variation across the 6" width of the fixed jaw, so I called it good for now. I'm planning to grind the vise jaws at school and will check it again once that's done.

My next goal was to get some t-nuts for the rotary table I got with the mill. I took a pair from the clamping set and tested for fit. Width was OK but I needed to mill .08" off the bottom of each. Doing so generated a lot of chatter and blue chips! I'm not sure of what type of steel they are made of. I had a 5/8" 4-flute end mill at 350 rpm, which was only 57 SFM. Higher speed seemed to make things worse. I was take cuts of .025 with a pretty slow feed.


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## kf2qd (Dec 30, 2008)

Every system has SOME error. Even the best stepper system will have some error. The problem with an open loop system - like a stepper system - is that you have no real way of knowing what your error is. A servo system, on the other hand is designed to use the error and correct for it. The error is extremely small, but you can know what your error is. A side benefit of knowing the error is that you can then know the limits of what you can expect from the machine.

Another reason for going closed loop is that you can use much more powerful and faster servo motors. It requires fancier hardware and much more software to control, but the result is that you can get things done quicker and can work with bigger machines.

Those old Bridgeport Boss CNC used some huge stepper motors and the same results (or better) can be had with much smaller servos.

The reason that NASA was willing to accept those parts made on the old Bridgeport Boss CNCs is not because they were so great and uber-precise, it was because they were then state of the art. NASA wanted their parts, and that was the best way to get them - AT THE TIME. 

The advantage of stepper motors for the Home/hobby machinist is COST. For under $1000 I can get the electronics to run 4 axis. Servos are probably going to cost you more than that PER AXIS. On a small benchtop machine the speed that servos could give you is not such an advantage because you don't have as far to move so you really wouldn't notice the advantage of higher speed. If you don't have far to move you don't need to go as fast.

Motion speed on a CNC machine is another nebulous thing. I used to build 2 axis Plasma/Oxy-fuel shape cutting machines. Our had a max speed of 600 IPM. A competitor had a 1200 IPM machine. Our 600 IPM machine could complete most moves before the faster machine because we had quicker accel/decel. It took them longer to get to 600 IPM than id did us so our machine was actually quicker, theirs just had a higher top speed. CNC motion is more like a drag race than an oval race. In a drag race the quickest car wins, in an oval race the fastest car wins.


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## pabird (Dec 31, 2008)

Hello group, 
Ive been soaking up as much as I can for a few months now and finally got up the courage to introduce myself. My name is Al but everyone calls me Smitty, Im soon to be 55 yrs old. Up until about a year ago I hadnt operated a lathe since high school. Ive worked for the last 33yrs in a coal fired power plant in the maintenance dept so Ive always been close to things mechanical. Anyway about a year ago I bought a 9x20 and have been busy working the bugs out of it and making improvements. My shop is my half of our 2 car garage. No milling machine yet just the lathe and a tool grinder and a bunch of hand tools. 
	Im not on the same level as most here but Im having a ball learning. I like the groups attitude, keeps me coming back. Smitty


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## kf2qd (Jan 4, 2009)

Rubber molds are probably made out of liquid RTV. Not quite the stuff that comes in the little tubes from NAPA, but in a bigger container and liquid. Have to mix it well and get most of the air out. Pour it around teh part, let it cure and cut it with a razor blade. If you pour it in some type of box that makes teh mold a but more rigid so it is easier to use.


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## Loose nut (Jan 4, 2009)

You could make the tools out of hardenable steel but the machine is more complex, they are usually a pneumatic device that hits the metal faster than you can see and has to be self adjusting to perform the way it has to work, hard to explain without see one in action. If you only have a little bit to do, you can do the same thing by hand with formers and a hammer, should be easy enough to make.


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## IronHorse (Jan 4, 2009)

A company called Eastwood makes small hobbyist versions:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?...RODUCT&path=1,2,1397,1406&KickerID=459&KICKER


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## Tin Falcon (Jan 5, 2009)

Here is another link
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95062
Tin


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## kvom (Jan 11, 2009)

Yet once again electrician dude does not show up, so lathe is still unpowered.

I decided to actually start to make an engine part on the mill, as a shakedown run. Needed to square up and mill to size a piece of brass 1x.5x.375".  Started with a piece 1.7x1.5x.4 with saw marks on 4 sides and scale on the other 2.

First problem was getting a 5/8" end mill out of the spindle. This endmill got messed up milling the t-nuts for the rotab. Bridgeport has an air-operated drawbar, but it would not undo the collet. I could tell that the end of the drawbar was not fully engaging the air motor, so took off the air unit (3 capscrews). Noted that one was loose. Loosened drawbar with a wrench and collet with a deadblow. I put the air unit back on, and tightened up the mounting screws, so drawbar did engage. I was then able to mount a .5" collet and a 4-flute endmill.

Next discovery is that when milling with the side of the endmill, it pushes the x-axis sideways yielding a poor, non-flat surface. If I limited the cuts to .02" or less then I didn't have the problem. I would have liked to lock the table, but the OEM locking screw has been replaces with a socket head capscrew whose socket is larger than any allen wrench I own. So job 1 is to replace it with an easier way to lock the x-axis.

Anyway, finally got the piece sized. Replaced the mill with a drill chuck that has a .5" shank (air now seems to work) and pilot drilled two holes. Got to test out the center-find capability of the DRO, which works well.

Then I wanted to mount the cheapo rotab I got with the mill, and discovered that none of the t-nut/threaded rods from my clamping set will work as-is to clamp it to the table. The short ones don't have enough threads and the long ones are too long. So looks like I need some threaded rod, or else I will cut two of the longest ones in half with my angle grinder.


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## lugnut (Jan 11, 2009)

shred, what brand is your filer? is it like this thing I have? Mine is missing or never had the variable speed thing. I think it was a variable speed pulley of some sort. I suppose I will have to do with a single speed machine.
Mel


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## kvom (Jan 21, 2009)

I found a 6" piece of 1.125" diameter 12L14 stock, and as well I ground a turning/facing HSS tool yesterday.

Today I chucked it in the 6-jaw, faced and center-drilled, hooked up the live center, and took a skim cut over 5.25" using the machine feed of .0006/rev..

With my cheap digital calipers I measured 1.117" on both ends; I then mounted my cheap DI with a magnet on the toolpost and ran it up and down. Variation is less than .001", so I'm really pleased with the accuracy of a 1942-era machine.

Tomorrow I'll take the material to school and measure with a better quality micrometer.

Now if I can just get the rest of the to-dos knocked out I might actually finish Brian's engine.


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## leop (Jan 23, 2009)

the engine


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