# 1/3 scale V10, second project



## keith5700 (Oct 26, 2013)

Right, here we go again!
I've decided on a V10 this time, just to be different.
And I'm going up a scale, as with the V8 everything seemed to be just slightly too small to make a proper job. Maybe my eyesight is going, or I need smaller fingers.

Bore will be 1", capacity about 125cc.
I want a 90 degree block, but even firing, which means a split journal crank!
Not solved that one yet, but should be doable.

Not too much design work done yet, but I've started with the boring bits, which is conrods, pistons and crank, as they'll be pretty standard whatever the engine looks like.

I do know now, after the smoking issues on the V8 that I'm going for 3 rings on the pistons. 2 above the pin and 1 below. I'm also making the rings a bit thicker and wider than last time, to get a bit more sealing. This is on top of the scale factor of course.

Anyway, rods first:-


----------



## Lakc (Oct 26, 2013)

I am sure all the usual suspects will be along for this ride as well.


----------



## Art K (Oct 26, 2013)

Keith,
Are you modeling this V10 after anything in particular or making it up as you go?
Art


----------



## keith5700 (Oct 27, 2013)

Art, I don't really know what the engine will look like yet, or what sort of induction system I'll use. My problem is I only get about 20mins a day on the cad at work, so I start with stuff I know, like conrods, and the rest just follows.

It would be great to sit down for a month and draw everything out first, but there's no chance of that.

The v8 always seemed like a compromise, fitting stuff round other stuff, and bits were always interfering with other bits. Hopefully this time I can do a bit more planning before cutting metal.

Oh, I would like twin turbos, but have yet to research if any useful boost could be created at these sizes. Just 2 or 3 psi would do.
Cheers.


----------



## Ripcrow (Oct 27, 2013)

Righto you got me interested with your twin turbo . I don't know but I always thought that most high performance engines still only ran 5 psi maybe 7 psi boost. Your heads will have to be good and tolerances very tight even at 2-3 psi boost good luck I will watch with interest and if I am mistaken on my high performance data someone here will put me straight. Heavy truck engines run up to 30 psi and I have had 1 that boosted to 42 psi before derating after a mechanic altered the wiring to lie to the computer.


----------



## John Rus (Oct 27, 2013)

Here is are some links that has some very good information on piston ring design http://korihandbook.federalmogul.com/en/index.htm, http://www.dieselnet.com/tech/lube_cons_ring.php. Google piston ring design and you will find even more helpful information.

Hope this helps,
John.


----------



## mu38&Bg# (Oct 27, 2013)

I don't think a turbo is practical at this size. Google for radial flow compressor design.  Even a turbo for a 1L engine is 32mm in diameter and needs to spin 120,000RPM to make 3PSI (Garrett GT06).

Greg


----------



## John Rus (Oct 28, 2013)

Actually 120,000 rpm is normal for tubos large and small and still deliver meaningful boost. I think the hardest part will be balancing the impeller so it won't self destruct.

Cheers,
John.


----------



## johnny1320 (Oct 28, 2013)

those are going to be nice rods Keith


----------



## MrDude_1 (Oct 28, 2013)

Hello Keith,
I was reading your other engine build and had a thought regarding the smoking on that one that might relate to this new build.

On the other (amazing) engine, you ran it with no air intake restriction, and there was no smoke. With an air intake restriction, there is smoke. This leads me to believe that the vacuum of the air intake tract whats pulling the oil into the engine, most likely around the intake valves.
If it was really the oil control around the piston, smoking would not change with the induction change. Pressure in the chamber and crankcase are the same in both cases.

Is this new engine going to have a conventional valve arrangement with valve seals?


----------



## mu38&Bg# (Oct 28, 2013)

John Rus said:


> Actually 120,000 rpm is normal for tubos large and small and still deliver meaningful boost. I think the hardest part will be balancing the impeller so it won't self destruct.
> 
> Cheers,
> John.



Yes normal RPM for large turbos, but minimum for GT06. Look at the map for the GT06. It tops out at 300k. The GT-6041 at 141mm diameter starts working at 28k and tops out at 78k. The smaller the turbo, the faster it has to spin to be useful. The GT06 is listed at 0.1-0.5L, but 25-80HP. Turbos require good flow matching. Designing a turbo requires much more. So with a twin turbo arrangement we are talking 60cc on a turbo and efficiency of the turbine and compressor will be so low as to make things difficult. Tiny turboshaft engines have been built, but nothing exists in production. Designing a turbo this small without CFD, I think would be a waste of time without a lifetime of experience behind you.

Greg


----------



## keith5700 (Oct 28, 2013)

At the moment I just have a wish list of stuff I'd like on the new engine. I don't anticipate making another one after this, so this has got to be the very best I can manage, given my equipment and cash available.
Twin turbos are on the list, but they have to work, in a fashion, rather than just for show.

It may be impossible however to get any boostout of them. In which case I'll try a supercharger, but I can't think how to fit this in at the moment, as I'd like all the top end free for a nice induction system.

I'd also like 10 x injectors and a dry sump.
Any other suggestions considered.

Oh, and valve stem seals.

Finished the rods for now anyway.





I made a wooden engine as I thought it might look a bit bulky, but I think it's ok.


----------



## gmac (Oct 28, 2013)

Keith;

Go cat go! Enjoyed the V8 build and looking forward to the V10 build. If the twin turbos don't pan out how about doing the supercharger like they did in the early drag racing and Bonneville salt flat racing days (AKA Potvin setup) - run the supercharger right off the end of the crankshaft and plumb the air up to the cylinder heads, frees up the top end and you get your room for injectors;

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=463034

Cheers Garry


----------



## John Rus (Oct 28, 2013)

The the main reason turbos spin faster or slower whether big or small is for throttle response and maximum power for the engine size. Not useable efficiency for engine size. There is efficiency losses and gains for various applications using slower or faster rpms but it's not dictated primarily from engine size but mainly by application.

Cheers,
John.


----------



## mu38&Bg# (Oct 30, 2013)

John, that is simply not true. Turbo size is primarily dictated by flow and pressure requirement. A designer can opt to install a smaller turbo for less lag and less peak power, or larger for more power and accept the lag. Mulitple smaller turbos make big power with less lag with the associated cost. This says nothing about how the compressor wheel itself operates.

 Once you know how much the turbo should flow, you size the turbine and  compressor wheels (if you're designing the turbo and not buying off the  shelf). The turbo diameter is very closely linked to the volume flow and  pressure output with RPM. An oversize turbo will surge if the engine can't flow what the turbo is offering. A small turbo simply won't make much power. When you get to the aerodynamic design of the compressor wheel, you'll find that as the flow volume is reduced the best course of action is to reduce wheel diameter. Reducing wheel diameter reduces pressure at a given RPM. To make pressure RPM has to increase. So smaller turbos run faster than larger turbos. This is very obvious in turboshaft engines which are just turbos with a combustion chamber rather than a piston engine gas section. The smallest commercially available turbine engine for RC models is a Kolibri T-32 which uses the Borg Warner KP-31 compressor wheel. This engine runs at ~250,000 RPM at full power and idles at ~60krpm. A large turbine in the model class range is the AMT Nike, at 176Lbs of thrust. It idles at 20k and full power is 61kRPM.

The GT-06 and KP-31 are the smallest production compressor wheels out there. Anything smaller needs to be designed and built, both the turbine and compressor section. As size decreases airflow effects reduce efficiency.


----------



## gmac (Oct 30, 2013)

Keith;

Is the method of finish on the con-rods the same as you applied to the cam covers on the V8 ? ;

"Then into the hand cabinets for a blast of fine glass, then a blast of 170 steel shot, at low pressure, say, 16psi." 

I assume this was done in an industrial setting. Is there a "home shop" method of accomplishing something "somewhat similar" without spending a ton? At least creating a matt uniform finish?

Thanks Garry


----------



## John Rus (Oct 30, 2013)

I know all that and I stated it in my post that, though not specifically, but what my point is I think you can still have a turbo that turns slower so it is in realm of the home machinist.

I have never heard of engine size sollely dictating the rpm of the turbo. Everywhere I read about the subject there is the smaller turbo for faster spool times, biggest turbo a engine can spool for max top end power ect. Perhaps you can forward a link to explain this.

I'm designing a engine myself and spend a large amount of time researching about engine technologies so I can design the best engine I can.

I take no offence in what you say and I hope I haven't rubbed you the wrong way, if I did I opplogise. 

Cheers,
John.


----------



## Swifty (Oct 30, 2013)

I'm interested in the finish that you achieved as well, looks like shot blasting. Do you achieve this in a home setup or do you have somewhere else you go to do it?

Paul.


----------



## keith5700 (Oct 30, 2013)

Garry, the finish on the rods is done by hand in a blast cabinet at work.
The rods were finished using a ceramic media, but only because that's what was in the machine at the time.
The finish from glass beads is pretty much the same.

I have done similar jobs at home, just using my compressor and a cheap hand held sand blasting gun. Uses a lot of air though.
If I didn't have access to this stuff at work I would make a small steel box, with a glass top, and a couple of armholes in the front, and 
just do it at home, with glass bead media.

The cam covers were done in the same way, but with a steel bead media, before anodising. I tried anodising over the glass bead finish, but the surface becomes a bit powdery after anodising.

You can buy a small blasting cabinet from £160 upwards in UK. but I reckon you'd need at least 10cfm compressor, or a big tank.

I can't join in the turbo conversation at the moment as I have done very little research, other than to suspect that it may not be viable at this scale.


----------



## mu38&Bg# (Oct 30, 2013)

I love the finish the blasting gives, but have no room for a cabinet at the moment.

I didn't say it was matching turbo RPM to the engine. I don't know a lot about designing radial flow turbomachinery, I studied axial flow design for a project a while back, but know enough to understand the characteristics of radial compressors. If you want a technical source any engineering reference on the topic will give you the information you need. To me the the relationship of pressure, rpm, and diameter is obvious in the maps. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbochargers Compare the three to see what they look like. Scale factors come into play which reduce efficiency as the turbo gets smaller. The small GT0632, Ø32mm, mentioned above manages 68% efficiency, the GT6041, Ø141, 80%. That may not seem like much ,but consider that the second smallest GT1241, Ø 41, only 9mm larger in diameter operates at 76%. You see that things go downhill quickly as size decreases.

I do understand what you mean about trading spool time for power. I was thinking street cars, but obviously turbo applications go all the way to drag and tractor pulls and other places lag isn't a significant factor.


----------



## keith5700 (Nov 4, 2013)

Started the crankshaft. I don't think the pics will be in order as I'm doing  this on the ipad for the first time and it's all a bit weird at the moment. I made 2 ends first which have two sets of 5 locating pins. The big end journals will be split by 10 degrees as I want it to be even firing but don't want a 72 degree block, as that makes the top a bit too narrow to fit all the manifold bits. 
With a 10 degree split journal I can have an 82 degree block vee angle.
Hope that makes sense
Hmmmm....sorry I can't figure out how to get the pics up on this  ipad, I'll do it at work tomorrow.


----------



## gmac (Nov 4, 2013)

Keith;
Thanks for the clarification on the surface finishing.
Cheers Garry


----------



## keith5700 (Nov 5, 2013)




----------



## LongRat (Nov 9, 2013)

Top work Keith, as usual the standard of your finishing is inspiring.
To add a little to the turbo discussion, you might want to take a look at the design of some dental air turbines.  They use a pelton wheel and some of the fastest out there are operating at over 1 million RPM.  The wheel sizing would be in the right ballpark on scale grounds, even if this wasn't necessarily correct for the engine's requirements from a pressure/flow standpoint.  It's also worth considering that as the surface area to volume ratio on these small engines is so heavily in favour of area, cooling the turbo assembly might actually be a bit more straightforward and simpler than what is used in full size applications.  I really hope you are successful in the turbo development.  You have done the ECU control and the fuel injection, so if anyone has the skills to pull it off...


----------



## keith5700 (Nov 11, 2013)

I suppose the first thing to do with the turbo would be to work out the amount of gas coming out of the exhaust and convert that to a cfm and pressure so I can use my compressor to do some testing with different types of turbine wheel/housings.
It's probably 12 months away when I'll start that side of things, but it would be nice to have some idea of what to try, before then.

I'm having another go with the ipad with a couple of pics. Done more work on crank, and drilled the oil holes.
Unfortunately I broke a 1.5mm dr l in one hole just as it broke thro. I can't get a straight line of sight from the other end to punch it out, so it's stuck at the moment.

Worst case scenario is I can get it sparked out, but that's a last resort.




[/URhttp:/L]


[URL=http://s28.photobucket.com/user/keith5700/media/image_zps52455270.jpg.html]


----------



## bigrigbri (Nov 11, 2013)

I have sympathy with you on the drill breakage and the easiest and safest is the spark erosion way.
Hows about gearing up a small impellor in a timing case set up at 1:10 to start with giving 10x engine speed at the impellor illiminating the volumetric losses. It coukd be done in a very small case close to the block / intake manifold
Nice work so far.


----------



## Ethan D (Nov 12, 2013)

Hey Keith!

Your work is amazing and inspiring! Great work with the V8.


----------



## keith5700 (Nov 18, 2013)

Got the crank finished. I ended up milling most of it with the dividing head. It worked a treat. I milled it down to plus 10 thou and then ground it to size with the grinding attachment I knocked up for the V8 cams. I'm a big fan of grinding now. If I can get another small lathe I'd like to make a permanent grinding machine.

Anyway, after grinding I polished the journals and steel shot preened the webs. It doesn't really need preening but it does a great job of covering up the file marks







[/URL]






[/URL]






[/URL]






[/URL]


----------



## idahoan (Nov 18, 2013)

Beautiful Work Keith!

Dave


----------



## Metal_slicer (Nov 18, 2013)

Only in my dreams could I do this kind of work. Makes my project look like a tin can :|


----------



## LongRat (Nov 19, 2013)

2 simple questions:

1. How did you protect the journals frm the steel shot?
2. What method did you use to polish the journals?

Superb crank.


----------



## apointofview (Nov 19, 2013)

When I grow up I want to be able to do this level of fabrication !

I have a question that is may be obvious to everyone else,  what is the purpose of the large bolt with a brass colored nut and what looks like a standoff that is touching the lathe chuck in the first two crank grinding shots?  It also has something wrapped around it.

Just trying to understand the method and learn...

Pete


----------



## LongRat (Nov 20, 2013)

He's turning the crank between centres at that point.  The crank isn't actually being gripped by the chuck, the bolt is acting as a drive dog.
This is the best way to get the part rotating on a repeatable axis even if you need to remove and replace it multiple times.


----------



## John Rus (Nov 20, 2013)

How are you going to balance the crank shaft after hand filing the webs?

John.


----------



## apointofview (Nov 20, 2013)

Ok thanks LongRat, I see that now !
Pete


----------



## keith5700 (Nov 21, 2013)

Journals are protected from shot by cloth tape, or duct tape. Not worth tooling up for a one off.
Polishing was done in the lathe with strips of emery paper. 600 grade first, then 1500, then 2500. I may do another polish with the felt wheel later.

I'll try and take a pic of the offset grinding of the big end journals.

The filing on the crank is just to take the corners and edges off, so won't affect balance too much. The plan is to build the rotating assembly up and dynamically balance it on the bench.
I have done this before on a full sized chevy v8. It will need a smooth drive, to about 2000rpm, spring suspension for the block and a couple of accelerometers feeding my oscilloscope, to show the out of balance. Then it's just trial and error, adding weights to the flywheel and front damper.

The weight of the piston rings needs to be glued to the piston tops.

This is probably 6 months away, but should be interesting.

I didn't balance the v8 and it turned out ok, but the v10 is a big lump, so will need balancing. It may turn out to be unbalanceable, in which case I'll fit a couple of balance shafts.


----------



## bigrigbri (Nov 22, 2013)

Very professional.


----------



## John Rus (Nov 24, 2013)

keith5700 said:


> The plan is to build the rotating assembly up and dynamically balance it on the bench.
> I have done this before on a full sized chevy v8. It will need a smooth drive, to about 2000rpm, spring suspension for the block and a couple of accelerometers feeding my oscilloscope, to show the out of balance. Then it's just trial and error, adding weights to the flywheel and front damper.
> 
> The weight of the piston rings needs to be glued to the piston tops.
> ...



Most interesting, is it more accurate that setup vs balancing it on a prop balancer?

Coming along nicely!

John.


----------



## keith5700 (Nov 24, 2013)

John, from my understanding of it, balancing the crank alone wouldn't achieve anything useful. The crank needs to be balanced with some dummy weights fastened to the journals, to represent the mass of the conrod and piston, etc.
This would normally be all of the rotating weight, ie the big end of the rod, plus half the reciprocating weight, which is the rod little end, piston, pin, rings, plus a little bit of oil.

With this lot bolted to the crank it can then be dynamically balanced.
Static balance on a prop balancer still wouldn't be any use, as the crank needs balancing end to end as well, unless it's a flat plane crank, I suppose.

The other way is to build the bottom end up and then dynamically balance it spinning in the block. Theoretically this must be the most accurate way, and easier too.
The only fiddly bit, apart from sorting out the accelerometers, etc, is to glue dummy weights for the rings, onto the piston crowns first.


----------



## keith5700 (Dec 4, 2013)

I've not seen this method of making the bearing shells too often, so I decided to photograph every step.
Apologies if everyone already knows this stuff.

First step was to rough turn and bore the phosphor bronze bar.




Then the tube was split





And then soft soldered back together





the new tube was then turned to be a tight fit in the rods, and parted off.





each bearing was then bored to about minus 10 thou' whilst still soldered together





then the interesting bit..boring the bearing to size. i have desoldered the 2 halves before this step, and assembled the rod as it would be on the crank





On the V8 it was a nightmare to get the bearing shells to stay in place whilst assembling the bottom end, so I decided to pin these shells. I can't really recommend this as it took forever to sort out. I'm glad I did it but would probably think of another way next time...


----------



## MrDude_1 (Dec 4, 2013)

Thanks for the info, I have never seen split bearings made like that....
As far as pinning them goes, why not try something simple like a tang? It just keeps it from rotating while assembling... and if it does spin the bearing, it wont TOTALLY destroy the rod.

Heres a pic with the arrow pointing out the tang on a ford V8


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Dec 4, 2013)

I make mine the same way only I dont solder them. The 4 jaw holds them together but you cant forget to mark them before you part them off.


----------



## keith5700 (Dec 9, 2013)

Yes, 4 jaw chuck method would work just as good.

I started the block recently.
I'm going to use the dividing head to machine 90% of the block. It worked great on the V8, so no need to change technique.
The block of ally looked a bit big on it at first, but no problems with the overhang, deflection, chattering, etc.

First job was to machine the mounting features....





Then I wanted to true the dividing head up to the X and Z axes of the mill. I machined trial cuts on the block and measured for any taper, then trued the head up so the cuts would be parallel.






Then I needed a datum on the front of the block, to measure from. I used a long series cutter and rotated the block, to produce a small dia. on the front. I know that this is concentric with the dividing head axis, and therefore true to the machine.






I borrowed a 20mm ripper cutter from work. I could take an 8mm deep cut with this. I reckon I could have gone to 10-12mm before the belts started to complain, but 8mm was more than enough to keep cool with a drip bottle.
Need to get me some ripper cutters!

Then I cut out the crankcase, and bored the block for the liners. I've left 20 thou' on all flat surfaces for now.


----------



## Swifty (Dec 9, 2013)

I see that you haven't used a centre on the other end, you mentioned that there was no chatter, I'm surprised at how rigid it is. Keep up the great work.

Paul.


----------



## keith5700 (Dec 18, 2013)

Paul, I'm as surprised as anyone that the dividing head is so rigid, although it is a hefty beast.

Some more progress........continuing my theme of trying things I've not seen on models before, I made a bottom cradle, rather than individual main bearing caps.












Machining the bearing locations for the crank ends






Then I made a boring bar and set the block up on the  Rivett lathe. The bar runs in the ball bearings at the crank ends. The drive on the left is a hex Allen key driving a cap screw in the end of the boring bar.






I realised after starting that there's no way to measure the bores without dismantling the whole set up.
Not a problem for the block bores, but as the crank is finish ground I'm going to have a problem matching the actual bearings to it.


----------



## MrDude_1 (Dec 19, 2013)

NICE! Are you going to put an actual load through this motor and have it run something? awesome go kart, or massive RC car perhaps?


----------



## keith5700 (Dec 19, 2013)

Well, my plans change all the time, but at the moment the plan is to get it running, with some form of forced induction, and then make a mini dyno and do a bit of proper testing on it under load.
After that I'm not sure. Ideal thing would be to get offered a massive amount of money for it, retire early, and get some decent cnc equipment, and see what I can make with that.
In reality I'll probably stick it on the shelf and do something else.


----------



## keith5700 (Jan 6, 2014)

Had a good Xmas in the shed. I did the cast iron liners first. I ordered some cast iron to do a test. This was obviously poured in a mould. It was a bit rough to machine but gave a reasonable finish in the bore. Then I noticed a bit of porosity in the bore, so this was scrap. I tried some more from a different place, which was extruded cast. This machined beautifully and the finish was amazing.
Also the Rivett lathe was a godsend. I could get the size right on the first liner and then just run the others off at the same setting, and they were all bang on. Maybe this seems normal for some of you, but I've never been able to do this with my old lathe.
Some pics then...


----------



## billmac (Jan 7, 2014)

Keith -  This is incredibly impressive work. I really enjoy watching your progress with this engine.  A question about the cast iron  Where did you buy the cast iron for your liners? It looks like you have extruded cast tubes, which should be great for this  job and a lot less wasteful than machining from solid.


----------



## keith5700 (Jan 7, 2014)

Hi Bill, the cast iron was from Reeves in the UK. It was just plain extruded bar, not tube. I had some more extruded cast which I think was from Chronos tools, which I've just used to make the piston rings. That was good stuff too.
The rubbish cast iron was from another place.


----------



## Art K (Jan 7, 2014)

Keith, how did you end up holding your main bearings in place?
Art


----------



## keith5700 (Jan 9, 2014)

Art, the half bearing on the sump cradle side has a small pin soldered in, similar to the con rod bearings. I didn't do the block side as the oil way will be in this position. 
With the bearings being quite thick and stiff they hold themselves in place quite well anyway, so next time I probably wouldn't bother with a pin at all.
Keith


----------



## MrDude_1 (Feb 18, 2014)

I know you cant rush art like this... but do you have any updates?


----------



## MrDude_1 (Apr 10, 2014)

Is this still being worked on?


----------



## a59effie (Apr 18, 2014)

Keith are you still alive I hope nothing is wrong in your life really enjoyed your previous build and have followed this one to !!!


----------



## MrDude_1 (Apr 18, 2014)

a59effie said:


> Keith are you still alive I hope nothing is wrong in your life really enjoyed your previous build and have followed this one to !!!



I think what happened is he had this on two different model boards, and forgot about one.. Its being updated here:

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3007.0


----------



## keith5700 (Apr 18, 2014)

a59effie said:


> Keith are you still alive I hope nothing is wrong in your life really enjoyed your previous build and have followed this one to !!!



Yes, still here. The build is continuing on another forum. I wasn't sure of the rules regarding mentioning other similar forums, so didn't.
The previous post should link to the V10 build.
Cheers, Keith.


----------



## keith5700 (May 4, 2016)

Thought I would post a quick update, for those that haven't seen the progress.

I'm on the final straight now, just some tidying up with bolts, etc. and some work on the cam covers around the spark plugs, and then it's ready to run.
I have had it running on a small carb but it's now got the fuel injector fitted.
The Megasquirt is just about programmed and theoretically should run it all ok.


----------



## 777engman (May 22, 2016)

Hi keith, very impressive engines, well done. I am just wondering if you have the info on the cam grinding process you used for these 2 engines? any info would be a help
Cheers
Dean


----------



## keith5700 (Dec 18, 2016)

hello all, for those who haven't seen it, here is the engine running.
Still needs some work on the spark plugs, and a bit of tidying up.

https://youtu.be/rz0Uteqfpao


----------



## 777engman (Dec 18, 2016)

WOW, Now that's freakin awesome!!!!:thumbup:
Dean


----------



## xpylonracer (Dec 18, 2016)

Hi Keith

Please explain what the following refers to: "10 degree offset split journal crankshaft."

xpylonracer


----------



## keith5700 (Dec 18, 2016)

xpylonracer said:


> Hi Keith
> 
> Please explain what the following refers to: "10 degree offset split journal crankshaft."
> 
> xpylonracer



Have a look at post number 28. That should explain it. I don't know if there's a proper name for this type of journal, but that's what I call it.


----------



## petertha (Dec 18, 2016)

Mag-friggen-nificant, Keith!


----------



## keith5700 (Feb 16, 2017)

Some pics. Not run it for a while. still trying to get time to build the mini dyno.


----------



## agmachado (Feb 16, 2017)

No words... 

Congratulations!!!

Alexandre


----------

