# Similar to the flanges tip



## Bogstandard (Oct 28, 2007)

I posted this in with my flanges tip, but thought that it might get lost being at the very bottom of the post, so I have moved it to here.
I use this technique all the time, especially for my batch production runs, or when anything has two holes in it that require a straight edge to be machined parallel to the centres of two holes. But by using spacers, holes of different sizes can be accomodated, as in these shots.







Big one 5mm, small one 4mm, shim thickness is half the difference between the two sizes, 0.5mm.







Flip over and do the other side.






Job done.

But there is always a down side to a tip like this. For small jobs and one offs like the flanges it doesn't really matter if the tops of the jaws are slightly mismatched, but for large ones like this, the jaw tops have to be totally parallel to the vice base and of exact height to each other.
When I first bought this vice (Vertex 5"), the first thing I did was to take the jaws off. They had used some sort of epoxy monkey metal under the bottom face of one of the jaws to get the jaws to the same height (oh! the joys of mass production). They must think that people never remove and check the jaws, you do do yours, don't you?
This 'muck' was removed and the vice jaws put back on and fully bedded down to the vice base, about 20 thou difference. so it was put onto the surface grinder and the jaws corrected, as should have been done in the first place by the manufacturer. I carry out this procedure about every six months to get rid of all the little dings and bumps, but usually now 1 thou removal is all that is needed.

John


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## wareagle (Oct 28, 2007)

Bog, thanks for sharing the tip!  

This gives me an idea on how to do a setup on another project that I am working on, and have been scratchiing my head somewhat as to how I was going to make a set-up.  This will make it easy!


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## Bogstandard (Oct 28, 2007)

Glad it helped.
It's really nice to know that one of my tips has helped someone solve a problem. Gives a bit of incentive to post a few more. As I use them, I will take a few piccies and post.
This can also be used for something like getting long tapers on con rods equal on both sides, just use a thicker spacer. It uses the sine bar technique but brought down to a much more basic level. Not as accurate but gets the job done.

John


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## lugnut (Oct 29, 2007)

John, what the heck you been beating on with that big old lead hammer?   That looks like a great tool.  Did you make it or ?
Mel
 :lol:


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## Bogstandard (Oct 29, 2007)

Hi Mel,
I have a couple of these hammers.
When they get too beat up I just remelt them and recast.
I have tried them all, deadblow with lead shot inside, copper faced, you name it, but non could beat the old lead hammer for settling things down onto para's or for belting stuff without doing any damage at all, and great for breaking the stiction of the tapers on my miller. 
But finding them at the right price is the problem.
If I get a change when it gets light here I will go to my shop and take a couple of pics of the mould I made, and a sketch to show how they are made.

John


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