# Cheap soft jaws for a 3 jaw chuck



## bazmak (Jul 26, 2018)

*I have wanted soft jaws on a no of occations but they are difficult/expensive to buy
and cutting the spiral teeth are beyond me.With buying the 3 myford lathes and restoring
i have collected a no accessories etc,one of which was a 5" 3 jaw chuck with no adaptor plate
and only outside jaws.I had been planning to incorporate in a box of bits and pieces with the 
Myford sale. During one of my design sessions (in bed just before i fall asleep) i started toying
with the idea of fixing soft laws to the existing outside jaws. So today with the sun shining i
made a start.Dont know how it will turn out and what problems i will have,i may end up with egg on my face. The jaws are hard but can be cut with a file so i am hoping they will drill and tap
Rather than make all 3 ,i am going to make and fit 1 to see what problems i have.I am hoping
not to make too many changes to the existing jaws,so the soft jaws can just be removed from the front.Hopefully the chuck can be used with changing /removing the external jaws.Nothing to lose












*


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## goldstar31 (Jul 26, 2018)

I'm a bit of a Doubting Thomas but can you actually drill and tap these jaws?

Kindest regards

Norman


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## BaronJ (Jul 26, 2018)

Hi Barry,

I've needed soft jaws on several occasions to use on my S7, this is how I did it...
I used some 40 mm diameter alloy bar, parted off slices thick enough to go on to the jaw teeth.  Drilled a 16.5 mm hole for the jaw to pass through, then drilled and tapped for a 1/4" BSW screw.  Fit to the jaws close the chuck so that it grips the new jaws and secure with the screw.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 26, 2018)

'Morning John

Now I can see the logic in your method. Actually, this is more or less one way of improving worn lathe jaws. Smaller diameters- of course.
Perhaps, I'm wandering off course a bit but I seem to recall a lot of Martin Cleeve writing in Model Engineer mag.
about altering the jaws by grinding.

Kind regards to you and Barry

N


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## BaronJ (Jul 26, 2018)

Hi Norman, Barry,

Grinding three jaw chucks is OK if you want accuracy at one particular
diameter !  Otherwise the right way is soft jaws, even then the above
applies.  The only difficulty I have with aluminium jaws is that they
soon get damaged, particularly if you are gripping a threaded
component.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 26, 2018)

I really need a thin piece collet chuck but probably the next best thing is a shellac based glue- This was beloved of the even older brigade. I have some shellac , incidentally.

However technologies change things and there is easily available glue gun guns and sticks. However, I've been replacing a polyethylene drive belt on my Quorn T&C which is almost all de-rusted and with the addition of some lost parts is usable. 

So that's the preamble because going the belt was a right 'bar steward.' I finished up with a jig made from my VBlocks and a clean soldering iron-- and a modicum of choice French swear words.

So what is today's choice to 'stick things down' but easily removed on completion?

Regards

Norman


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## abby (Jul 26, 2018)

Superglue ,Loctite , Araldite all work if used correctly and a little heat removes all!


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## Blogwitch (Jul 26, 2018)

Getting away a bit from making your own, if ever you buy a new chuck, either a 3 or 4 jaw self centering you should be able to buy ready made soft jaws for them at very reasonable prices (around £25, $35 bucks per set).
I have now well over 10 chucks in my collection (self centering) and all of them have soft jaws, from the small myford sized up to the larger ones that came with my lathe. I won't buy a chuck now unless soft jaws are available for it.
Because I stick with one make of chuck, it means that I have duplicate soft jaws that will fit several chucks, but this really works out well when boring them out to fit the job, usually I have something in one of the sets that is very close to what is required, so not a lot of boring needed. I  also bore and use soft jaws on my mill when using the RT, dividing head or spin indexer as well as the lathe. It makes gettting precision machining well into the range of the beginning user for very little money or experience.
I just wish that I could get soft jaws for my cheap chinese six jaw SC. That would make high precision work available for very thin wall components.

John


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## BaronJ (Jul 26, 2018)

Hi Guys,

The method of making soft jaws as I described is ideal for holding very thin work pieces. You just need to close the chuck jaws, then turn a recess just a little smaller than the work, say 100 thou, 1/10" inch to what ever depth you need.  I have done this a number of times to make thin items thinner.


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## BaronJ (Jul 26, 2018)

Norman, for round solid polythene belts, I use a flame to melt the ends and a "V" block to square them up.
Melt the ends and shove them together using the "V" block.  Trim as needed with a scalpel.


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## Anatol (Jul 26, 2018)

On the subject of adhesives, what about some of the varieties of double sided tape or 'snail trail' ? (essentially the adhesive without the tape)? 

On the subject of soft jaws - what about HDPE, Nylon, Delrin? (I've made such for vise jaws, but not chucks) Easily milled to fit.


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## BaronJ (Jul 26, 2018)

Hi Anatol,

Essentially you can make soft jaws as I described from any suitable material.  Many plastics could be used, indeed most metals not just aluminium.  I only used that because it was handy.

With regard to adhesives, I've used various things to stick workpieces to mill tables, faceplates and each other.  Solder is particularly handy when machining con rod ends.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 26, 2018)

I took time off to look at Tubal Cain's ( T.D.Walshaw') articles which appeared in Model Engineer and now have been amalgamated in in his Simple Workshop Devices book.

I did find the recipe for the watchmaker's/ woodturner's glue but also the quite extensive use that he made of 'bits of wood'

Which all prompts me to make his Gibraltar tool post for which I have the casting( somewhere)
\
Cheers

N


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## bazmak (Jul 27, 2018)

Thanks for all the input Guys. I have seen the common method of making bolt on pieces for the jaws but wanted to
make full soft jaws without having to cut the spiral teeth. Just finding a use for this oddball chuck without letting
it go for nothing.Time will tell if i can drill and tap the jaws Norm.They do appear soft enough to file.More important
things to think of at the moment ,my computer is playing up and had to empty and reload windows.Just got back to
this site,having difficulty remembering passwords etc.Next problem is to find my old emails and addresses


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## goldstar31 (Jul 27, 2018)

G'morning  Barry. It certainly would be interesting to learn if you can drill and tap. Please keep us or me posted!

As for computers, I got utterly fed up with newer Window s and especially Windows 10.  I've gone Apple, Apple and more Apple. I still don't understand the so and so things apart from an emergency  phone call perhaps but it does seem  better.  I liked the old Windows which suited my old thoughts etc.

Incidentally, I'm now approaching the Quorn T&C working again- de-rusted most of it and sort of more or less agreed with Baron about the belting. The old belting simply frayed, I'm afraid.

I've bought one of these posher  2nd hand cameras and eventually I might understand it too.

Back to my mound of medications

Cheers

N


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## BaronJ (Jul 27, 2018)

Good Morning Guys,
Barry:  You might find that you have to anneal the jaws to thread them !  Drilling holes might not be so much of a problem, particularly with a carbide drill bit.  You might have to resort to grub screws through the sides.

Norman:  I dumped Windows years ago !  I use Linux and have never had any of the problems that plague other operating systems.  One really big advantage of Linux is "Live CD's".  You simply boot from the CD and surf the net from there. You can do many other things too !  But since you cannot write to a once written CD, nasties are pretty much irrelevant.

The Apple OS is based on a Unix system, not unlike Linux, as is Android.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 27, 2018)

John

Thanks but my 'surviving'  Windows7 laptop hasn't got a CD facility. Clearly, I'm clueless. 
I actually used the W7 thing as 'library' to help solve some of the Apple mysteries.

N


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## DJP (Jul 27, 2018)

Plus one for Linux. Your avatar of the cartoon penguin gives you away. 

My general rule for on-line health is to avoid doing any financial transactions and to delete anything that asks me to open a file.


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## DJP (Jul 27, 2018)

Barry, instead of drilling your chuck jaws another approach might be to weld or braze on a piece of steel that is already threaded to hold your aluminium covers. If you don't like the results just grind the attachment off and start again. Drilling hardened jaws my be possible but tapping is sure to cause a problem. At least for me it's a weakness of the taps that I have. They break too easily.

Take care.


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## bazmak (Jul 27, 2018)

The jaws are solid mild steel with the intension of just unbolting them.If tapping is a no no then alternatives
will be to grub screw clamp from the sides or even stitch weld as a last reort.Just going out to the shed now to do a little more


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## Timehunter (Jul 28, 2018)

Set screws were what I was thinking also.
Two on each side of each jaw.
You could even mark where the set screws hit the jaws and use a Dremel
   or whatever to grind a little slot or hole to help them hold.


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## RM-MN (Jul 28, 2018)

How securely do the soft jaws need to be fastened to the hard jaws?  It looks like they would just stay in place with very little help...like a hole bored into them with a neodymium magnet pressed or glued into place.


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## clevinski (Jul 28, 2018)

Hi, Bazmak,

John Lindo, a friend of mine in Spain, got me turned on to soft jaws a few years ago.  He is such an advocate of them that he has written an article that will appear soon in Home Shop Machinist magazine.  His basic approach is to buy one set of commercial soft jaws, and machine them into masters, which are mounted in the chuck.  The masters include a tenon and holes for pins.  From there, you can fabricate numerous aluminum jaw designs for your different requirements.  The aluminum "slave" jaws can be removed and replaced on the "master" jaws as needed.

I have used these successfully for a variety of projects, including one that involved holding a .250 inch wide perimeter while I turned a taper on another part of a hand wheel.  I have no idea how I would have done it without the soft jaws.  The narrow perimeter was gripped on approximately 80% of its surface in a soft jaw recess.

I *think* that this article will be in the next issue of the magazine.  It might be worth your taking a look.  Whichever way you go, good luck with the project!

Charlie




bazmak said:


> *I have wanted soft jaws on a no of occations but they are difficult/expensive to buy
> and cutting the spiral teeth are beyond me.With buying the 3 myford lathes and restoring
> i have collected a no accessories etc,one of which was a 5" 3 jaw chuck with no adaptor plate
> and only outside jaws.I had been planning to incorporate in a box of bits and pieces with the
> ...


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## deverett (Jul 28, 2018)

Many years ago there was a description in Model Engineer of making soft jaws using 3 short lengths of ali hexagon.  Hole bored to clear the (hard) chuck jaws and held in place with a set screw bearing on the back of the hard jaw.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## goldstar31 (Jul 28, 2018)

Two sets of soft jaws for my Sieg C4 are due for delivery on Monday. The cost of each set is under £20

In addition, I ordered some hard beeswax sticks to mix with shellac flakes  which makes a traditional engineers' glue.

Again, I'm advised that a contributing friend got his Myford soft jaws from a national tool shop - which has a depot near me.

More variations on a Theme, perhaps?

N


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## bazmak (Jul 28, 2018)

After a couple of hrs in the shed.The hard jaw i removed was fairly soft and drilled/tapped easily
so finished the new soft jaw and finished it.Easy Peasy.  HOWEVER when i checked the 2 remaining
original jaws they were pot hard so i had to have a rethink.I finished the other 2 soft jaws and fitted 2 clamping grubscrew
to the sides.When in use all the cutting forces are acting against the hard jaw shoulders so should be ok
however i am not 100% confident in the fixings being rigid enough.I will try to dimple the hard jaws for the
grub screws.Last resort may be to try and anneal the jaws or lay on a stitch weld.Meantime i am going in the shed
to make a chuck adaptor plate so i can fit the chuck to make the final machining.Wish me luck
Just a point to note.True soft jaws are usually made of mild steel to fit the chuck and replacing the hard jaws
with the intention of them accepting multiple machining usually for holding thin discs or machined parts accurately
Never seen them in alum.Aluminium soft jaws are usually add ons or cover protection pieces to hold softer
materials without damage,and can be simple folded shims or bolt on discs to the hard jaws


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## goldstar31 (Jul 28, 2018)

Am I having a 'senior moment' but I vaguely can see a Myford leaflet on colored paper- perhaps grey or blue and hexagon jaws- probably made of brass or bronze. This contradicts Baz but he's good sport
- I hope.

Anyone with an old Myford price list on  4 pages , please?

Norm


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## bazmak (Jul 29, 2018)

During my short term on machining in the apprentice school i was only familiar with mild steel soft jaws
to be machined as required to suit a particular work piece.However after a couple of hours in the shed i have almost finished a chuck adaptor plt
I used whatever materials i had to hand and welded 2 pieces of flat bar together.Successful but not easy and not something i would recommend
Machining over hard welded joints plays havoc with cutting tools.Wore out 2 hacksaw blades and 2 carbide tips.Will finish tomorrow
i have dinner to cook.Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding


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## BaronJ (Jul 29, 2018)

Hi Barry, Guys,

I don't envy you machining off those lumps   I would use a bandsaw to cut them off, at least it would be less of an interrupted cut.

Just going back to the chuck jaws, I'm surprised that one of the jaws was soft enough to drill and tap, but the others were hard.  Are they all from the same set ?


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## bazmak (Jul 29, 2018)

Yes it surprised me.I checked the jaw no 1 and it was soft.Like a fool i proceeded on that 
basic without checking the other 2. They were pot hard.Look to be the same set.Bit of a suprise
I hacksawed as much as i could and wore out 3 blades.Very time consuming and difficult
with severe interupted cut and facing across the weld.The steel itself was tough/hard
dont know what it is but i got 2 pieces about 400lg one of the myfords was mounted on them
Will go out in the shed later this morning and try to finish off


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## bazmak (Jul 30, 2018)

Well after 3 hrs of hard work my dedicated soft jaw chuck is almost finished.Considering i had no use for this chuck
and was ready to give it away with a myford sale i am very happy with the result of all the hard work.It hasnt cost me anything
and will hopefully give me a useful dedicated soft jaw chuck.Some finishing and tidying up to do and the first use i have for it
is to hold 1 piece of a 6mm thrust washer to open up to 1/4" id with the die grinder so i can fit to the cross and compound
slides of the Myford.Attached image of a sanou chuck that would be ideal for making?fitting soft jaws to


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## BaronJ (Jul 30, 2018)

Well you have certainly made a nice job of that backplate !  Those jaws are looking good too.
I bought a 5" chuck for my S7B so I could hold work larger than the original PB narrow body one can, but because it has a backplate it sticks forwards about 2.5" more and you have to be careful that the jaws when extended don't hit the bed.  A 6" chuck would be a no no.  Which is a pity because it looks like a nice chuck, maybe use on a rotary table.


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## DJP (Jul 30, 2018)

Your next challenge will be to make multiple sets of soft jaws to cover a range of work diameters without too much additional trimming. I have a feeling that once you get that done the fun of this project will disappear. Hopefully you have a use for soft  jaws in mind. For me they would sit in a drawer although always nice to have available.

Thanks for sharing the adventure.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 30, 2018)

An update.  2 sets of soft jaws for the SiegC4 arrived today.
Again, 2 sticks of beeswax to concoct a witches brew to stick things like sheets.

Now the question arises of whether Myford chucks have the same scroll.

Cheers

N


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## clevinski (Jul 30, 2018)

bazmak said:


> Just a point to note.True soft jaws are usually made of mild steel to fit the chuck and replacing the hard jaws with the intention of them accepting multiple machining usually for holding thin discs or machined parts accurately Never seen them in alum.Aluminium soft jaws are usually add ons or cover protection pieces to hold softermaterials without damage,and can be simple folded shims or bolt on discs to the hard jaws



Hi, Basmak,

I respectfully disagree.  For example, you can find aluminum soft jaws at these links: MonsterJaws, MSC, Abbott, Rovi.  But each machinist should use what he is comfortable with, and certainly steel soft jaws will last longer in a production environment.  For hobbyists, I personally think aluminum is less expensive, easier to machine, and quite precise unless you are making a large enough number of identical parts that wear is an issue.  Just my opinion...

Having ruined a number of HSS end mills trying to machine down welds, I can see the challenge you have in machining your plate!  I ended up grinding the welds down close to the surface before machining on the few projects I have done involving machining welds, and have had more success using carbide insert tooling to machine these lowered welds.


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## DJP (Jul 30, 2018)

I have not found welds hard to machine when using 6013/7014 rods. Carbide tooling is required but these soft rods with iron filler coatings have not been problem.

Just an observation from my shop.


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## clevinski (Jul 30, 2018)

Wow!  That is some nice work, Bazmak!  I wish I could weld that well...


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## clevinski (Jul 30, 2018)

DJP said:


> I have not found welds hard to machine when using 6013/7014 rods. Carbide tooling is required but these soft rods with iron filler coatings have not been problem.
> 
> Just an observation from my shop.



Hi, DJP...

In thinking about it, I think I had the most trouble with a piece of steel that had not been welded, but cut with an oxyacetylene torch.  I don't know if that would make a difference or not, but the edges seemed almost hardened.  I will have to try machining some future welds with carbide and check the results.  Thanks for the info!


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## bazmak (Jul 30, 2018)

Yes flame cutting leaves a hardened edge and is best ground before machining. These jaws will last me a lifetime
and i believe are superior to alum jaws for accuracy.Aluminiun is best for protecting delicate parts
Thes jaws will be used mainly for holding thin discs or washers or when a turned part is reversed
and accurate concentricity is required. As i said a chuck of very little value has been transformed inti
an occational very useful item.Nothing lost


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## goldstar31 (Jul 31, 2018)

Perhaps the old  annealing  in the fire and letting things cool down in the ashes might solve a lot of broken carbide tools


Cheers


Norman


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## bazmak (Jul 31, 2018)

I would like to try annealing the jaws Norm so i can drill and tap the other 2 as the first
What sort of heat do you think i would need.Dont have oxy acet but have a mapp gas bottle
Dont think it would be sufficent to heat the jaw to red heat but maybe local to the tapped hole
Its something i was going to try.Maybe drill with a carbide drill,try to anneal around the hole
before tapping.What are your thoughts.would the jaws be case hardended with maybe a softer centre
Your thoughts and others would be appreciated


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## goldstar31 (Jul 31, 2018)

The old classic way was to heat things up until they were carroty red and leave them in the dying ashes until next morning.  My long gone father would have done that.

In a more sophisticated age, my guess is not oxy/acetylene( although I can find  lots of others uses for it) is probably the barbecue set and to keep the heat going in the charcoal- until next day.

I'm going back a bit but recall in West Cumberland the Workington Beehive Cooperative Society. It was nothing to do with bees but beehive ovens where cast iron was kept heated until it could be converted to wrought iron.

Digressing further, I recall going down the copper mines on the Great Orme in Llandudno in North Wales. My father had been a sapper on Anglesey in WW1. I was intrigued to learn how the Romans smelted the copper as there was little sign of charcoal making. Apparently, they used local brushwood which got higher temperatures suitable!

Hey, Baz, I'm supposed to be an-ex bean counter. Mr Bean( same village in Durham)= dear Rowan and I sort of moved away from such things!

Anyway, hope this helps

N


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## BaronJ (Jul 31, 2018)

Good Morning Guys,
I would just throw them into a forge or similar let them get to red heat and then bury them in dry sand, leave to go cold.  The likelihood of them been just case hardened is low.  In fact I would guess that the odd jaw had been missed at the factory and just slipped past QC.

I wouldn't try to re harden them, they might distort.  Actually there is a risk that they might distort when they get upto red heat.  Your call...


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## Hessel Oosten (Jul 31, 2018)

Hi Barry,

Thanks a lot for the pictures of making your soft jaws.
Please could you do me (us ?)  a favor and post one other photo:

_The situation with these soft jaws mounted in your chuck._

I've still some problems how this looks/functions  "in situ".

Thanks in advance,

Hessel


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## BaronJ (Jul 31, 2018)

Hi Hessel,

The pictures you want are in post 31 !


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## DJP (Jul 31, 2018)

I still like the idea of welding a stud to the jaws then retain the soft jaws with nut and lock washer. Heating steel relieves stresses which is a good thing just before final machining. However, if there are stresses still in the jaws they may not fit as well ever again once heated.

However, if you are serious about heating, charcoal in an hibachi BBQ with forced air from a small blower should get things to the colour you need. 

I am assuming that this chuck was worn out before your change to soft jaws. I have a couple of chucks with worm scroll that only work for a fixed size of round stock after I bored the jaws for that size.  I thank you for the idea to repurpose my worn out chucks.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 31, 2018)

DJP

You are missing the point at which I took great pains to explain. There is NO quick fix or one that I - or a world of older proper iron workers found.

Laughingly, there is no one who has suggested  using a hot chisel!  Obviously, I learned a great deal as child who could barely look over the anvil. Than both in time and thank my lucky stars that my father refused the last of the family then to go into engineering-- as it was.

In a real world, the cost of making a silk purse out of a sow's ear is £20 and no further energy is needed to be expended.  What the REAL cost in time and energy do something 'questionably' workable remains to be ======admitted.

Regards

N


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## bazmak (Jul 31, 2018)

Thanks for your comments.Just to reitterate.The chuck is good quality with little wear.I had little use for it as it only had outside jaws
and no adaptor plate. I am not taking the expensive/time consuming way to make a silk purse out of a sows ear.If successful then
a dedicated soft jaw chuck would be valuable/useable to me. To anneal the 2 jaws to red heat with my available equipment i feel
is beyond me,however i will give it try.More photos when i have finished Regards barry


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## Piston_Broke (Aug 1, 2018)

I have had very good results just using paperboard, as in, the thick paper from the back of a note pad or cereal box. I can tighten the chuck and not leave marks in the material. It holds well enough for heavy cuts and parting.


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## DJP (Aug 1, 2018)

goldstar31 said:


> DJP
> 
> You are missing the point at which I took great pains to explain. There is NO quick fix or one that I - or a world of older proper iron workers found.
> 
> ...


Norman, I defer to your age and experience but I don't understand what you are saying. Barry's project to add mild steel jaws (soft) to an existing chuck looked to me as a solution to a worn scroll where the jaws need to be bored for every job. Once used enough times they can be replaced and the chuck lives on. Changing the scroll and rebuilding the chuck doesn't make sense at prices for new chucks and I'm not suggesting that a set of add on jaws will make a worn chuck look new again.

A clarification of you parable is appreciated.

Regards


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## goldstar31 (Aug 1, 2018)

Probably I should 'chuck it'.

N


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## bazmak (Aug 1, 2018)

Will answer again your comment Pisrol Broke.Any chuck can have a variety of materials in different sizes to be used to protect
items being turned. Soft jaws are a totally different concept for holding thin ring washers and pre turned parts securely
and accurately for machining.They are designed to be machined many,many times before being replaced. They can be made from a softer material
as a complete item with the scroll machined in them or they can be a bolted on item as i am doing.The external jaws were ideal
as most of the future machinable meat is in the correct area at the front internal diameter. Please dont confuse true soft jaws
with clip on metal protective covers


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## bazmak (Aug 1, 2018)

Norm ,in answer to your dillema with a worn chuck.Using soft jaws should overcome the wear/inacuracy of the chuck
When the soft jaws are tightened on a piece of bar and the jaws machined to a certain dia to be turned then the chuck will
be accurate AT THAT DIAMETER only. Please comment if i am incorrect.But i think you can use your worn chuck
and fit soft jaws. If you can anneal the jaws then they can be machined flat and with a groove for screw fixing on a mild steel jaw
Just like the Sanou image i posted.Waste not want not Norm


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## bazmak (Aug 2, 2018)

SUCCESS. Using a Mapp gas with oxygen i managed to heat the 2 jaws to cherry red local to the tapped holes
and









   allowed to cool slowly while i played the flame on for about 10mins before the oxy ran out
Reading the instructions it says that the oxy will last 10 to 20mins.Dont think i will be buying many more
cylinders. However the jaws had annealed and i drill and tapped them.The front fixings are much superior than the side grubscrews
I skimmed the jaw pockets to get about 6 thou clear between the jaws and the face of the chuck.Then i mounted it in the lathe
and skimmed the jaws face an I/D and machined a 19 dia x 1mm deep pocket for the thrust washer to be opened up
Milled a rad and tidied up the jaws.Jobs a good one. This chuck will be stored away and only used as needed


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## goldstar31 (Aug 2, 2018)

Barry

Thank you but 'I' don't have ANY worn chucks. I bought  the two sets of soft jaws to fit my Sieg4 simply because I wanted to hold  thin disks for machining. 

Again, regarding annealing and whatever, I was brought up in the blacksmith's shop literally out of a family which had been in engineering since the days of Stephenson. My great grandfather, grandfather, 2 uncles and my father all worked in metal. 

I didn't!  I studied and studied- when the rest of my herd were sort of enjoying themselves. I became a 'bean counter' and seemingly an extremely successful one who was able to retire at 55 years. I DID go back to school on retirement.

I did a City and Guilds in Motor Vehicle Restoration and became a Certified Welder on retirement. I should add- for the Hell of it!  

I'm sorry if you have become somewhat confused. I'm playing with 'Model Engineering' as a way to keep my grey cells working. 

The other way that I adopt to try to keep dementia at bay is that I work for much of my life concerned with charity.
I've just managed to get the local Ex-Forces half their immediate needs to stop closure. On Monday, I was having my usual check up, injections and whatever and got around to my Doctor's and his wife's thing about mental difficulties in young and under privedged young people in the area. There is a need- I know how they can get financial help in these difficult times. 

I'm going to do it. Somebody pulled me out of the gutter many years ago, I'm trying to return the help that I received.

As for chucks and whatever- it's a game.  
REAL life has greater needs.

Let's be clear

Regards

Norm


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## clevinski (Aug 2, 2018)

bazmak said:


> SUCCESS.



Basmak, congrats!  Really nice job!


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## DJP (Aug 2, 2018)

goldstar31 said:


> Barry
> 
> Thank you but 'I' don't have ANY worn chucks. I bought  the two sets of soft jaws to fit my Sieg4 simply because I wanted to hold  thin disks for machining.
> 
> ...


Congratulations on your 'Give Back' work. We must be at the same stage in life when health issues, staying mentally creative and giving back to society are  important. I do the same.

Take care.


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## bazmak (Aug 2, 2018)

Your play on words that you should chuck it maybe gave me the wrong impression that you had
a worn chuck.Buying 2 sets of soft jaws gave me the impression that you were more playing at it
Hope i have not upset you Norm


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## goldstar31 (Aug 2, 2018)

Actually, I'm off to see china, which might be a play on words or it might not. Obviously it is not everyone's cup of tea.

I want to come back to proper work refreshed.


Regards

N

Well before I even start 'holidays', I have just received an e-mail  inviting me to a Chinese Wake.

It came with a set of instructions/recommendations on how to conduct myself at this sad time.
I'd been with my friend both here in the UK and then in HongKong.

Tomorrow, I sort of have to appear - bright eyed and bushy tailed for a sports car event. It'll be nice to see my son's Lotus Elise SE  and my late wife's now my daughter in law's Mercedes SLK230

How do people have time for their own hobbies- or have a proper holiday?

N


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## BaronJ (Aug 5, 2018)

Congratulations Barry,  I seriously doubted that the chuck jaws would anneal at all, let alone enough for you to tap them.  I took a good look at the pictures you posted and they look very nice.  I wish that I would have had the confidence to have done that.  So forgive me if I stick with my bits of aluminium bar.


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## bazmak (Aug 5, 2018)

Thanks Baron,from the start i knew the idea was good but also thought i would not be able to anneal
the jaws. I would not have tried it if i didnt have any use for the chuck but waste not want not
The sanou 6 " chuck with rev bolt on jaws would make an ideal receiver for new soft jaws but 6"
is too big. 4 or 5 would great for me


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