# Xrad's Stuart Triple



## xrad (Oct 6, 2013)

Bought this off ebay. The seller was super with fast shipping and great packing. The engine had many faults which probably happened ove time. Not to blame anyone, just describing them and the fixes. 

Most of the original machining was excellent. Super smooth cylinder bores, perfectly fitting upper and lower covers, pistons and rods perfect. Base plate perfect. all cover holes and tapped block holes perfect.

Some issues included:
crank bent in more than one direction in more than one section.
Original parts stamped for position, but many in wrong positions
Mixing of BA and USA threads
Slide valves incorrect size and in wrong position
One broken piston ring (HP)
Missing many little parts
H2O pump scored internally
Pump holes drilled in wrong position
HP rod journal angled by 6 degrees from crank centerline, other two OK

Repairs included cutting out angled rod pin and drilling and brazing in a new 3/8th pin. Straightening crank which took about 3-4 hours and is now within 3 thou along the bearing length. 3-4 thou at crank end tip. Replacing all parts into appropriate positions and reaming the journals. Installed oil cups. All main components now function with just minimal drag. All slide valves now have smooth surfaces and slide very nicely. 

will finish up over next few months for install into 60 inch trawler. Have a large chelston model boiler and large stuart boiler...will see which one works better. Chelston is coal fired and would need a big burner. Also have an external H20 pump and hand pump for boilers.

At one point I was considering a new crank . There is a gentleman in England who does cranks to order and was very fast to reply by email. If anyone needs one, he may be able to help you: type 'jim1kent ebay' into search bar. you will need ebay account to contact him.


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## xrad (Oct 6, 2013)

Unfortunately, even though I have resized my pics to less thn 640x640 and have tried several different files extensions and types, I can get them to post. Maybe I need to have more than 10 posts or something..anyone know?


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## xrad (Oct 6, 2013)

trying another pic. these work...don;t know why I can't load my jpg/jpegs


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## Lawijt (Oct 6, 2013)

That boiler looks really great.


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## xrad (Oct 6, 2013)

Thanks. I think they (Chelston Modelers) made them in the 80's of a limited run.  Out of business now...
It is thick walled and of excellent quality. Whistle valve. Coal firing valve. cast  Iron grates and door. Very heavy duty. All the seals were dried up and leaking..no big deal.  Pops at about 90-95 psi.

I have 25 lbs of anthracite waiting for a cold day.....

The Stuart is a 1035 from a while back. It is not nearly as heavy duty in construction but steams in ~8-10 minutes with butane/propane mix.


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## xrad (Oct 27, 2013)

Update: 
The following was performed:
1) Fix crank pin , brazed and pinned in a new one...much effort
2) All valve surfaces were polished to 400-600 grit
3) all valves polished
4) slide valve face recut on all three to correct port size
5) IP to LP copper pipe and fittings made
6) tedious measuring of all eccentric straos and eccentrics and correctly positioned on crank
7) silver soldered all eccentric rods to straps after correctly lengthened
8) Set all valve rods to correct height (IP was not easy and probably is still off a little)
9) made thin gaskets for all sealed surfaces
10) packed all six rod holes
11) replaced and tapped countless holes and screws (BA and US as this engine is a mix) 

The BIG ISSUE was that the whole head was canted by about 30thou throwing off the piston rods to crank alignment. It took a few hours of shimming to get everything aligned because the rod link control rod bushings were each milled a little differently. Now the head sits within 1-3 thou across its length in relation to the base. Of course, then all of the rod guides had to be repositioned with shims too.... fun, but tedious....

12) set timing as follows: On my engine, eccentric rods are crossed at BDC and open at TDC and all are in same order down the crank. Even though the LP valve is opposite the other two, this does not affect the eccentric or strap position. Then, all set screws are 90 degrees to the crank at TDC each corresponding cylinder. You will have to play with the set screws and add few degrees advance or retard as needed. These are set with the HP cylinder to the right and the LP to the left. Set screws face you. Look at the pic for strap/rod set up.

she runs OK on 30-40 PSI. There will be much fine tuning and more building to come.

SEE the first run on steam!
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1K-2Ob2kqvQ&list=UUYQskpmHyALB5hsentYB_6g&index=1[/ame]

at bottom is original ebay engine


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## xrad (Nov 8, 2013)

Picked up my 60 inch hull form Carl of Microglass today. He was very nice. we met half way in Erie PA. Hull is beautiful...but...a hair too small for the triple expansion engine. Plus, I did not want to run engine as a single/double or single/single/single because the engine definately runs worse in these setups. It runs very smoothly as a triple the way it sits now.   I plan to use a twin marine stuart engine for the job. pics to follow....


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## xrad (Nov 10, 2013)

cut a new screw for the reach rod lever. Original was damaged and cut at 24 threads per in, new one per plan at 3/16 x 20. I added a few extra threads.....

Cutting these threads was not difficult, just change the cutting gears. I lost my thread dial so I had to eyeball the start point(using a magnifying glass and a mark on the part. The key on my machine was to realize that the travel mechanism had some play(about 1/2 a thread cut). I had to remove the play by cranking the travel handle opposite screw cut travel. Had to try this three times. One bad cut before I found the 'play,' one pretzel, and one good one.

Also mad a new HP to IP copper pipe as the original was a little crushed....


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## xrad (Nov 17, 2013)

update: designe a surface condenser. Basics done......

I can get her to run great at 25 psi in one direction...not so well in the other. This will probably end up as a display model so one direction is fine for me.

Hard part is designing an oil seperator so I can run a closed loop system, or maybe I will use the heated water from the condenser chiller circuit as fresh boiler fill......


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## xrad (Nov 20, 2013)

Stuart triple a little too big for my tramp steamer. FOund a nice replacement from station road steam. A stuart twin marine (not compound)...very nice people at Station Road Steam, FAST shipping.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ny_MEHWgLDg&feature=c4-overview&list=UUYQskpmHyALB5hsentYB_6g[/ame]


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## xrad (Nov 23, 2013)

Hi everyone, had some time last evening to make a sil soldered condenser for the triple. 21 3/16 tubes giving a surface are of about 40sq in. Had to redesign the Stuart vac/water pump because the piston and the ports as designed di not work well. Solved by drilling four holes through the piston and adding a thin brass disc on the rod side a valve. held down with just enougn play by a silicone band cut from model fuel line. There is a second valve up higher. So now the pump really does work well.

tap cold water in to BOTTOM of condenser (so that you know it fills completely) and drains out top. Still in mock up but really functions well. the engine definately runs better with the comdenser. Also, I can maintain 50 psi in the boiler while running the engine at about 120 rpms(using very little steam compared to the stuart double); it will run for hours at about 10-15 psi

deflector on top of condenser pipes distributes steam. clean out ports at each end. Can't really clean out the steam side, but it would take such a long time to build up enough goo so I don;t worry about it.

The incomming cooling water probably about 50degrees, and outging coolant is mild to moderately hot at low speeds. High speeds, it gets hot...so condenser seems to be designed at about the right surface area. Also, when running full on, the pump is really pushing out condensed steam, and only spitting at low speed.

the condenser ends and inside braces are machined 2 inch bronze water pipe fittings. not made for any significant pressure, but I don't have to worry about that.

some Utube vids:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TlwleHfXdE[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUlyQP11JYI[/ame]


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 24, 2013)

Very nice work - I like it!

You're making me want to get moving with my compound too 

Dave


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## xrad (Nov 24, 2013)

Thanks Dave, 

I don't have the proper stock to make nice brass end rings for the condenser so I had to use what was available. I am more of a build to function first and form second......

Gentle sloped exhaust pipe, .25ID into condenser and .1ID outlet to pump. Uses about 1.5L/~20min of water at full gravity flow, which can be adjusted with addition of a valve. May use heated coolant water as boiler fill. Condensate to waste container. Maybe an oil separator down the road? maybe a radiator and pump to cycle the cooling water...will see......


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## xrad (Nov 27, 2013)

Built a simpling valve for the triple. Basically a branch off the HP line after the lubricator. Runs straight into the LP chest. Can control pressure/flow with the needle valve. Works GREAT to start the engine. As soon as she warms up, it becomes counterproductive and will actually slow the engine. It seems that valve timing is pretty good for triple expansion and not so good for triple double action. May be timing, may be that the pressure is now against the lower pressure IP cylinder. 

The real benefit is that I hardly have to turn over the flywheel by hand to get her going. As soon as the water squirts out of the cylinder, tighten up the cocks and the simpling valve and away she goes. I was reading a marine steam book last night about condensers and triple expansion engines. Although this triple runs well at 10-15 psi, it runs really well at 50 psi with the main throttle valve just cracked. Seems that ~50psi is nearer to what a triple expansion needs in terms of steam expansion...rather than 10-20. Makes sense.


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## xrad (Dec 9, 2013)

Building a Tramp steamer model. As the triple is more difficult to run, I am going with this ST twin launch engine. Did some work to her to get her in better shape. Before and after pics top and bottom. More to do....

Also have a better and bigger burner for the stuart boiler. Uses a touch more gas...maybe has a big #8 or small #9 jet...maintains 60psi longer and better with the low effeciency twin....


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## xrad (Dec 12, 2013)

New drip oiler manifold with preheating by exhaust pipe.


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## xrad (Dec 13, 2013)

Finished the oiler. Works very well for mains, not so much for the straps and crosshead pin. These get a startup oil shot anyway so no big deal. Fun to build.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vS_iotWU24[/ame]


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## xrad (Dec 15, 2013)

repaired a water pump. Bought from a nice guy named Vern who lives in northern plains area. Pump needed some repairs including removing all the expanded gasket goo, and repairing of a valve rod. Ball valve surfaces needed some cleaning.....

It is a steam hog and may be better on my 3/4 Northern rather than the trawler....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfBsafxi12k&feature=youtu.be


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## xrad (Dec 29, 2013)

Well.......the Sweden burner was a flop. I got it to burn well but it jumped from the end to the jet and would then cycle with a popping sound. And then I added the smoke stack and it ran like crap....so....time to build my own burner.
It is 1.5 in wide and about 4 inches long. Solid brass base and thick brass tube. Screen mesh just inside of the stainless perforated end. This keeps the flame from jumping to the base port. The base port flares 20 degrees for mixing gas and air in the brass tube before burning. Lights easily hot or cold. uses number 8 jet(and uses no more gas than my smaller 3/4 in burner also a #8..hmmm...maybe I need a smaller jet on the smaller burner). 4-40 set screw.
Might have to build a surrounding guard so as not to draw too much cool air into boiler when firing. about 1/4 inch gap around the burner.

see vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z09Bvdtlmu0&feature=youtu.be


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## xrad (Jan 1, 2014)

Did some lagging today. Used 3/4 character hickory left over from flooring, ripped down to a 1/4 plank and then ripped to smaller pieces. Honed a curve on the backside but was too lazy to bevel all the edges. Went with a thicker cut for strength and looks. Brass straps.
The wood has a very tight grain and is strong and cheap. A few drops of CA glue to hold position while the bands were applied. Blue mark applied to inside of curve so that I stained the correct side.

stained and oiled...no poly or anything on top...just let a natural aging occur..

I was just looking at micromark's nickle plating kit. I should have plated the cylinder head and valve chests to avoid the rust back when it was all apart. I will have to make an air compressor valve attachment to blow out the engine after running. Anyone else do this?


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## xrad (Jan 4, 2014)

BOILER BURNER UPDATE:
Well, looks like burner number 3 was a bust because after it is placed into the boiler burner tube for over 20 minutes, the stainless screen becomes too hot and 'back burning' occurs. It sounds like an afterburner with a real loud roar. I tried to place the screen/screens in all different positions and burner tube lengths, but it did not prevent the back burning. Why?...because the whole burner heats up too much and the thin screen can not dissipate the heat well enough to prevent ignition of the gas before the tiny pores of the screen. This only happens when the burner is inside the burner tube where the air circulation is directional and minimized.

So..how to fix?.... Addressing the back burning first: The 4th design incorporates a .3 in thick brass slug with 150 #54 holes drilled through. The .3 in length is arbitrary but seems more than thick enough to prevent gas burning through the pores even when hot. This slug was then pressed into the end of the short tube and tested. This burned well but not really hot. Took a while to get the boiler going. So back to the long tube with an axial gas flow design. Beveled base port mixes air/gas well with the longer tube. The collar is for air adjustment with several different air hole sizes tried as well.

Then, when things started looking good, the 'long' burner was placed into the boiler and WOW boiler tube harmonics and a standing wave with the burner jet created the worst loud whistle(like a flute). When the burner was far enough out to stop the whistle, it was too far out of the boiler. The standing wave actually compressed the flame decreasing heat when in too far...so..back to the drawing board.

I decided to press the brass slug back into the long burner tube about 1/2 inch. This significantly decreased the standing wave nearly to nill, but the burner was now running poorly due to lack of oxygen at tip.

Next, I drilled 8 holes ~3/8 around the burner tip to allow air into the flame. WOW!! this was it. Now the 1/4 inch gap around the burner (when inside the boiler tube) really supplies air into the burner tip and the burner roars out the end with a really hot flame. Almost all of the orange glow is gone and the flame base is blue/white in color and dancing well on the brass slug!! The boiler really heats up well now, and with the wood lagging. The flame is hot enough to melt brazing sivler rod if placed in the flame three inches or closer to the slug end. However, it does not seem hot enough to melt the cross tube brazing due to the water drawing heat away. Burner can be turned down to less heat if needed by bottle valve.

Pics show the attempts, and vid the final iteration.

see vid.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTg72W_h630"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTg72W_h630[/ame]

All 2-56 screws stainless. 3 set the slug and three set the tube. tube and base brass. Air collar bronze


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## Mechanicboy (Jan 4, 2014)

Back burning in the burner is caused by too slow gas/air mix velocity. Too little orifice or too big diameter between the orifice and end of burner will make slow gas velocity. Too little air entered into the gas mixer.

Let us say: Make a gas mixer small and long enough + rich of air + a correct gas orifice to make high gas velocity before a big burner as you did. 

Try this book: https://archive.org/details/designofatmosp1921193berr


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## xrad (Jan 9, 2014)

mechanicboy: Thanks for article. I love these old tech papers. I agree backburning for all your reasons as well as the screen/diffuser getting too hot, which is secondary to its thickness and slow flow and air/gas mixture. Using the same number of holes and the same size holes in the brass slug, no more backburning (with all other factors being relatively equal) The other thought is that the more efficient burn on the hot side of the diffuser (newest design) may actually accelerate the gas through the burner tube and diffuser orifices...or does it actually create more back-pressure?

The diameter of the diffuser slug and burner tube length are not calculated but estimated in my head for what volume of gas could be burned efficiently. I think I got reasonably close to correct in the final product.

Some quick calcs:
original burner #8 jet(clevedon steam design)
.7in diffuser diameter; 37 diffuser holes of .35in dia = .13 sq in 

My burner:
#8 jet
1.9in diffuser diam; 150 diffuser holes of .265in dia =.33sq in

My burner is 2.7x diameter of original with diffuser port area 2.5x the original, and it burns hotter with same gas usage...hmmmm

Probably could get away with #6 jet in the original burner, it is normally sold with #7. My burner is definately produces more BTU's.


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## Mechanicboy (Jan 9, 2014)

Hi!
The burner get hot due the material round after the burner mesh, remove this part as i am showing the picture. See the drawings as i can recommend the burner where you get a less hot burner but good boiler heater as in the photo of the burner.

Here is the tips how to make a good burner :

Pointers on flame adjustment 
Problem

Cause - Remedy

elongated, yellow- ish flame

lack of combustion air - open the air supply

flame "lifts off" excessive exit velocity - use smaller injector, reduce the gas pressure, reduce the air supply

flame "flashes back"

exit velocity too low - use larger injector, increase the gas pressure, open the air supply, reduce the size of the burner jets

flame "too small"; not enough fuel

fuel shortage - use larger injector, increase the gas pressure

flame "too big"; excessive fuel supply/consumption

excessive fuel supply - reduce the gas pressure, use smaller injector


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## xrad (Jan 10, 2014)

You are rigth about the 'collar' and the burner heating. but at this time, I probably will not remove collar. there is no back burn with my new design and the collar seems to direct the flame in right direction. I may design a larger coller down the road.....


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## Mechanicboy (Jan 10, 2014)

If overheating of the burner is not a problem when using the cooling air around the collar, all will be fine.


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## xrad (Jan 11, 2014)

Mechanicboy. Yes,I agree with you. It works. One of several methods to come to same end. Is that your D10 in the avitar?

Also, If you build model boats, there is a very nice 'light flicker' board sold in UK

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCnYe94uyek[/ame]

http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/las2.php


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## Mechanicboy (Jan 11, 2014)

Nice flickering oil lamps.  Yes, it is my Stuart D10 with own made Stephenson reversing gear link. And i am still building the tugboat.


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## xrad (Jan 19, 2014)

MAde a new thrust bearing. See pic below. 3/16 stainless rod and some real flanged bearings. very smooth. Not thrust bearing per se, but will work with the forces required.

Tested the steam valve with boiler water level detection unit. starts about 45 sec into video. see the flashing LED which tells that relay activated and steam flows starting the duplex pump. Valve rated for 265 degrees(stainless/viton 23$ on ebay). I ran it for about 45 minutes with no issues.

Of course, the real issue is on the water with wave action. I placed two boiler bushings at different levels in case I need to adjust the sensor position. Also, I could redesign the sensor and add an internal wand of about 1 cm so that it is not so small (presently a 1/72 bolt head) creating less of an ON/OFF effect.

My method of aging props, I use copper plating for all my models...my signature on my builds.. Salt water, 7 volts, copper wire. This was originally a 5.5 in prop now trimmed down to 4.8in which is about a 12 ft prop on a 160 ft boat.

video at :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37BZJHCT9wM&feature=youtu.be


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## xrad (Apr 8, 2014)

Not the Stuart, but rebuilt this Tich 3.5 gauge:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WW0-xH-wxw8"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WW0-xH-wxw8[/ame]

No superheater so very wet steam....


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## xrad (Apr 12, 2014)

Selling my Stuart Triple and the Chelston boiler on ebay if anyone is interested....too many projects and this one now runs..my work is done..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/STUART-TRIP...t=Vintage_Antique_Toys_US&hash=item461e0eb7a5


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## xrad (Apr 26, 2014)

well, sale fell through for both items, so I decided to finish the engine little details. Added copper cladding and made condenser mounts and straps, straightened plumbing and drain cocks....will probably mount with coal boiler for nice display. Need to make cooling reservoir, etc..... found some great diamond plate aluminum on ebay 1/10 scale..looks real nice....


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## xrad (Apr 26, 2014)

More pics: Underneath the cladding is DEI exhaust wrap, nice insulation w/out asbestos. Obviously, you want to drill/punch the copper before annealing. I like the look after heating, adds real nice patina, which is now my signature look on my steam engines. Searched the local stores and finally found real cotton three strand rope for the pipe wrap, found in Walmart sewing section. They also have good selection for fine fiber antique look cloth for model sails!

I may add corrugated aluminum wrap to the condenser to hide some of the silver solder imperfections and aid in cooling.


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## charlesfitton (Apr 28, 2014)

lets see the tramp hull, please.


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## xrad (Apr 29, 2014)

ummmm, yeah,  been slacking on that.  Had to design a new Scott type boiler as the Stuart was too slow to steam and produced too little steam for the twin requirements.


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## xrad (May 4, 2014)

corrugated aluminum adds a nice touch to the engine.


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## kvom (May 5, 2014)

Are still selling the boiler separately?


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## xrad (May 9, 2014)

Since both sales fell through, I decided to keep the boiler to go with the triple.

Pic of tramp hull model and what I am trying to achieve (steamer pic below from full size movie prop):


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## kvom (May 9, 2014)

Apropos of this model, a friend of mine told me today that he had the Stuart castings for this engine and that he would never get around to building it.  If he wants to sell it on here, what would be a fair price?


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## xrad (May 9, 2014)

Stuart still sells them. That would be a good starting point for price. BUT, some of the older castings are apparently better, and of course if he has done any work (quality machining) and if all the parts/screws are included, then maybe a bit more....

Some pics of the Scott type boiler:

Here are a few pics of the pig tails brazed into place. There are 13 3/16 pigtails on 0.5 in centers, with opposite side offset by 0.25 in. which leaves just the right amount for air space between coils......
Pigtail diameter determined by the burner, which was built first and runs well.


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## xrad (May 11, 2014)

Boiler end plates: First, determine the diameter which is the inside shell diameter minus x2 the thickness of the endplates, plus a hair more. I made a former out of hard oak floor remnant formed on lathe. 

Cut out the endplates. I used .065 copper. Too thick for shears, and would not fit into my small plate shear. so had to use the lathe. This required a center bolt hole which will be used for the brass stay threaded lug. Cut copper out a bit bigger than the boiler diameter because you have to form the edge. If you do a nice job cutting it out, you will not have to trim anything after forming. Copper is a PITA to machine so go medium slow rpms with sharp cutting tool. I found that a few drops of tap magic worked fairly well.

Once the copper is cut out, heat it until light cherry red. I focused the heat on the edges that will be formed. Easy to form over hard oak a bit at a time. Took four heat cycles to get the piece perfect. Many little hammer dings which will fill with silver solder. SAnd and egt rid of any rough or sharp edges.

Then I gently pressed into boiler end after fluxing the boiler and the end plate. Silver soldered up well. Need to get near red hot for solder to flow. don't overdo the flux so less runs into boiler.

My torch is a small tip for fine work , but I have it hooked to a bottle of MAPP and a big O2 tank so it just works for the endplates.  Nothing new if you have done this all before....


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## xrad (May 17, 2014)

Boiler tested and steams to 50psi in 13 min without baffles. Boiler box almost completed.

Citric acid bath test ~2 tablespoons in 1 liter soaked for 10 hours...looks nice.

Vid of burner/boiler:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tP6ES3Kt7bY[/ame]

Orange flame from one pin hole leak coil #4. I need to improve my brazing skills....


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## xrad (May 19, 2014)

9 min to 50 psi with boiler in the box.....


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## xrad (May 29, 2014)

Boiler nearly done. If you add ten tablespoons of citric acid to hot water, your boiler will be clean enough in one hour. Rinse inside and out very well.

Components of the boiler base: Outside shell, inside cone baffle, bottom shelf(stainless). The internal cone baffle opens slightly towards the smokebox. This is to allow the heat to expand and flow out towards the smokebox because of the last coil blocking baffle. So there is about 1/4 in air gap at the front progressing to about 1/2 in at rear(smokebox) end. If you hold your hand over the smoke stack, the heat does not come shooting out. it has a more gentle but relatively hot flow pattern. Much heat is contained and therefore transferred to the water by my baffle design.

using harbor freight blow torch. I bought the 29$ version because it had a piezo start. Yep, crap. that lasted until just after the first heatup. Buy the 19$ one. Hooks right up to propane tank. It makes a VERY hot flame. I had it set on med low via handle valve. Too huch heat and all your fittings will fall off. It has a ~2.5 inch dia torch head so not good for small jobs...

Hardwood lagging almost done...

Painted with VHT 900 degree brake caliper paint. It will not take direct flame, which is why the baffle is not painted.

Remade the water side of my pump, now it works great(only one side used now). 3/4 steam piston, 1/2 water piston. There was something wrong with the original internal channels. Even with new balls and seats, it never had any pressure.....If you look really closely, you can just see the edge of a bright spot in the front top of the water pump cylinder. this is a small drill hole for air relief from topside of piston.


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## xrad (May 29, 2014)

For any beginner boilermaker like myself, this has been a great project, and not too complicated. I think this boiler is much more efficient than the Stuart and runs better with gas (stuart would be better with the blow torch on parrafin/kerosene).

I think this is now a great match for the Stuart marine twin going into the Tramp Steamer. I have a good duplex waterpump, hand pump, electronics for water level control.

Now to design the water tanks and general layout.....


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## xrad (May 30, 2014)

finished the lagging. Overall looks OK. Not the best , but surely functional. Will be hidden by boat structure anyway...

I don;t like philips head screws, but that is all my local hardware store had. Need to find some tiny lag bolts....

I cut the stainless straps on a harbor freight 8 in shear/brake. I tried to cut the boiler box plate with it (.05/18 gauge steel) and I damaged part of the shear. Still works fine for thinner sheet...

There is a 25 cent coin in the last pic for size reference..

Last pic is the harbor freight sander. Ok for hobby use but nothing more. On sale for 60$. Belt top acts like a drum sander which is perfect for the lagging inner curve, and the disc for the bevels. Also sanded the trimmed floor board to the required thickness before ripping each plank off on my micromark hobby saw. Using 120 grit. This floor wood was VERY dense and very hard. Even the dremel had some problems sanding out the holes for the steam fittings. Free wood sample from local flooring store....don't know the species....
No, I don't work for harbor freight, they just happen to carry the tools I need....


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## Swifty (May 30, 2014)

The boiler is looking great with the timber cladding.

Paul.


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## xrad (Jun 3, 2014)

Thanks Swifty. I just added the super heater coil and tapped a 3/16 40 fitting for it off the steam dome...will post pics soon.


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