# Has brouck #10



## chillybilly (Aug 11, 2009)

Well work is underway ,making the bits that my material stocks will allow as this one takes some big lumps !!!!!! 
 Made the rod from 2 seperate bits then machined between centres then onto the mill for the remaining ops,using bearings i got around the shop where i can to keep costs down , Cut the large dia for the crank from a piece of 5" steel bar by hand as the lump i have is too small for any of the power saws i have come across ,hour and a hlf with a new blade ,Knackering !!!!! joined the web to the shaft then machined all surfaces between centres then transfered to the soft jaws for the facing ops across the webs ,milled the connecting pin hole before i joined the 2 pieces ,experince eh !!! Need to mark out the crank webs then get them milled and then the next bit ............................... 8)


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## rake60 (Aug 11, 2009)

Anxiously awaiting the next progress update here.

Looking great so far! Thm:

Rick


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## chillybilly (Aug 12, 2009)

whoops !!!


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## chillybilly (Aug 23, 2009)

Well the quest contiues all be it quite slowly ,Crank webs now milled ,though a smaller rad was used at the base of the web due to tooling issues.
Got all the 0.500 "plate cut yesterday so thats where the next part will come from .Good hour with a plasma cutter ,deep joy!!!

Need to get the lower chassis plate made next ,this with the bearing housings will allow me to start bolting some bits together ,and see a bit of progress.

The stratergy for procuring the 4" square lump is not going too well ,so i thinck that needs some thought dont want to find myself with an engine with no wooompf!!! 

 On the turning side got the flywheel in the lathe ready in the machine all faced up ready to be machined .Need some advice on keyway cutting using the saddle .Any one got any pics of the tool shape they do it with ???
biccy brew and garge now me thicks ................
 ;D


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## chillybilly (Aug 25, 2009)

The crank is finished ,that was an epic !!!!!!!!need to do the base plates next i think ,got to grind all the flash of first from the plasma cutter   pass me the grinder...............................


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## chillybilly (Sep 16, 2009)

Well been busy,crank now on the base plate with the ecentrics made and in position ,they just need the lock screw holes drilling and threading next time the rotary is on the mill.
The chassis plate took some doing ,big as my ts mill will take i think,would get one laser cut next time i think took ages to mill the apertures for the crank and ecentrics.

Made the bearing housings as a pair which took much more setup but a better end result .

Have to decide where to go next with it now ,still struggling to procure the cylinder /valve chest material so that limits where to go a little.

Plan is to run the engine in the garden next summer running the lady of the houses water feature ,need to decide on the best treatment for the steel so as to prevent rust .Any advice much appreciated


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## chillybilly (Sep 16, 2009)

all in position


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## black85vette (Sep 16, 2009)

Nice looking work. Thm:


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## black85vette (Sep 16, 2009)

Just went over to Ray HasBrouck's web site. Had not been there before. The #10 looks like it will be a good one. How tall is it when done?

Here is the web site:
http://hasbrouck.8m.com/index.htm


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## chillybilly (Sep 17, 2009)

When complete it will stand 18" high.It has a 5" flywheel and 5" crank across web .
2.250" bore with a 3" stroke ,so its all pretty big for a little engine !!!Apparently it could make 2HP when complete ,that should cause some pretty serious "water feature action" 

Dont think it will ever run on steam though ,it will require a fair size boiler !!!
Now need to find some 4" square solid bar for the cylinder which the rest of the bits marry up to .Getting material in these bigger sizes is a challenge i didnt see coming however !!!
onward and upward :big:


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## black85vette (Sep 17, 2009)

That will be a really impressive size when done. None of mine are taller than about 5". (Not that I have size envy) ;D

Check with onlinemetals.com for the 4" square stock.  I have used them for items I could not find locally. They will cut to size without a minimum. Very handy.


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## chillybilly (Sep 21, 2009)

Still slow progress ,have now split the bearing housing so that is the bottom end done !!!!! Busy making the tools that allow you to get all the holes in the cyliders in the right place ,ray strongly advises the making /use of the tools for accurate alignment etc ,so thought about doing it other ways but figured ray knows best ..
Watch this space


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## chillybilly (Sep 24, 2009)

Yipee!!! managed to get the 4"steel stock ,got a big off cut from local steel merchant ,good price too Just need to get it sawn now and will be on the money .
The 2 tools which are used to manufacture the cylinder are nearly done .
Been blocking up the valve cheest material ,seem to spend alot of time blocking up !!!
Be nice to have a big mill with a shell carbide and just buzz it off !! Ho hum ..
Pics soon ................ 8)


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## chillybilly (Sep 25, 2009)

got the 4" cut thanks "Richard 3rd " .Now on with cylinder production .

I suspect this may take a while .......................... :


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## Kermit (Sep 26, 2009)

I went to Ray's site and looked at the #10 and all the other engines as well.

Then I purchased the plans for #6. Something about that one spoke to me, so I'm gonna try my hand at making it. I hope my effort produces parts half as good as yours are looking Chillybilly.  Thm:

Thanks to Blackvette for posting the site link that got me to spend my money, as well.   

Sorry about the offtopic bit,
Kermit


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## chillybilly (Oct 1, 2009)

Well production of the cylinder is under way ,the steel billet i got was seriously out of square ,so i gave it a whirl on the mill with a fly cutter ,quickly became apparent that this was not gonna be good so mounted inthe 4 jaw on the lathe and skimmed the faces that way ,measuring the error on the s plate and then using shim in the 4 jaw to correct the ,all done eventually and kept the non critical dims somewhere near plan !!!!

Next was to create the valve surface on the cylinder ,4.6mm requires off ,decided to do this on the lathe leavinf a bit on so that i can skim the face once all the other operations are done ,as i am bound to mark te surface if i go for finsh size at this point ,experience !!!!

Decision now is do i use the 2 tools made ,1 being to mark out the hole posns on the top and bottom of the cylinder and 2 to be drilled and screwed to the faceplate and the cylinder maounted too it and bored out .
Dont fancy drilling my precious face plate 

My plan is ,mark centre on both ends using my 2 datum edges ,then clock in 4 jaw using cetreing bar ,drill and ream to suit dowel mount tool 1 on dowel and drill 8 holes for top cylinder plate .

Reverse in 4 jaw clock true agoins ,skim front face and then drill and bore out the holes for the lower cylinder plate are drilled later using the lower plate as a template .
I reckon that this should give a good cylinder without the hassle of faceplates and dilling there of .
Any views /oppinions /alternatives more than welcome ,dont want to screw this bit up ,took ages to get this far ...........................excuse typing its late and i am "tatered "


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## chillybilly (Oct 4, 2009)

good progress today ......

Got the tool 1 and dowel sorted and drilled and tapped holes in upper cylinder for mounting to tool 2 which carrys the job on the faceplate ,decided to go this way when i realised the faceplate had holes already that i could to locate the tool .

Now got it all mounted and have started to drill out the 2.250 bore .

Need to grind up a trick boring tool ready for getting that surface finish !!!!!

then a quick skim acroos the front and it should be hot to trot to the mill for some serious dilling and milling ......................


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## chillybilly (Oct 9, 2009)

Managed to sneak off in the shop this eve and get some boring done ,looking for a 2.250" hole less a gnats for a hone .Managed to drill out to 1" ,mate leant me a 2" monster drill but it is on MT4 and my lathe is MT3 so that was a bit of a blow !!

Ground up a nice little boring tip and fitted it to the biggest boring bar i have that will fit in the hole ,comenced ,lowish revs and a reasonable feed ,bit of protestin on the first run mainly getting the hole round following the drilling .
couple of wizzes on the grinder to keep a decent edge ,4.5 " deep hole means plenty of tool extension and i dont need the "SQUEELS"

Well after 2 hours and 25 cups of tea ,i have a 2.125" hole which is good and parallel,that will do me for tonight .Hope to get in there tomorrow and get it to size ,fingers crossed i can keep it Parallel


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## ozzie46 (Oct 9, 2009)

Parallel at 2.125 dia. and 4.5 deep, I would say thats a major accomplishment. :bow:

Ron


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## steamer (Oct 9, 2009)

That looks great Chilly....make sure you send a picture to Ray....he appreciates it when any one builds one of his engines.

Dave


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## dsquire (Oct 10, 2009)

chillybilly

Looks like your doing a fine job with that engine. Take it easy on the tea though or you will be up all night draining it out. Rof} Rof}

Cheers 

Don


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## chillybilly (Oct 11, 2009)

i will be sending a pic to Ray when its done ,could be a while!!

Well got on with the boring last night and i am pleased to say that i have managed 2.249 " with no detectable run in the bore so am pretty chuffed about that ,did it slow revs ,light cut with a sharp tool with nice rad on the cutting edge .

Have found a descrepency in the wall thickness on one the lower side of the bore however ,cant seem to find where it has come from though !!!!!!!!!!!!! 
Everthing was bored from one end using the fixture made previous ,had a good measure up and all seems square so i am a little miffed .
Reckon there may have been an error in the marking out and due to the length of the job it has been exagerated a little .
ITS SO FRUSTRATING .........................


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## chillybilly (Oct 20, 2009)

Life seems to have been set against any shop time recently ,i have been able to slip off in there for a few hours here and there though .

Have managed to get the 3 holes into the cylinder block the two opposed holes will be blocked off in due course they are the ways from the valve chest to the cylinder ,the single hole seen in the pics is the pressure inlet hole .

I have to now machine the slots in the valve face to permitt the movemrnt of the air into the cylinder via the valve chest ,and also the angled holes in the cylinder walls to allow the pressure into the cylinder .

Rumour has it the girls are off out on sunday ,so i hope to slip off into the shop and get that done ,watch this space ..........


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## chillybilly (Oct 21, 2009)

managed to get in the shop this eve ,nice suprise 

Got the holes and slots in the valve face ,pleased to say all the holes married up and didnt break through any walls .

Just need to add the two holes connecting the cylinder to the valve holes and this bit is done ,at least from the machineing angle ............


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## chillybilly (Oct 25, 2009)

Well the master plan worked and i managed a good shop session today ,managed to make the nut to fit the lower cylinder cover which i got half made during last week .
Bored out some stock to fit the brass cap into ,soldered it all together ,then machined the brass and steel OD and face bored the hole for the piston shaft and parted off .

Bored out the softies then bored and threaded thee end ,bit of fiddling required and it all fits together YIPEE!! Might knock up the brass sleeve that fits within later if i can get a pass out


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## chillybilly (Nov 4, 2009)

Been busy ,time for update.

Managed to get the material for the crosshead for a song ,downside was its the welded pipe .Also managed to pick up a 4.5" horizontal bandsaw ,got a decent lennox blade in it (thanks johnS) and i am dead chuffed .Was due to cough for a new one when this one came up .It is easier and safer to saw than part off some of these 3" steel bars then face them up in the softies .

Right buisness , cut length of pipe (on new saw :big clocked it in the 4 jaw ,skimmed the galvo off the exterior and cleared the weld and galvo from the bore ,turned a register on the end .Machined up flange ,with bore to take pipe register .angled the inner bore 20 deg to allow solder to fillet joint.Cut it off(on new saw :big

Silver soldered the 2 halves together ,no worries ,off for a brew while it all cools down.

Bored out the softies and cleaned up the od ,front face of flange,and took the bore to within 1mm of finish .

On with the 4 jaw ,didnt want to muller the end of the part so i cut a small lump of copper pipe split it and fitted on the end and clocked the part up jaws gripping on the copper band .Also found out part too large for my steady Grrrr ! Finish bored the sleeve nice and slow with sharp tool, once done skimmed the mating face of the flange to keep it square with the bore . Inserted a blank centre into the bore c drilled supported with the centre and skimmed the large dia of the flange .Job done went for a brew


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## chillybilly (Nov 4, 2009)

next the lower cover needed finishing....Sawed it off (on new saw :big bored the softies skimmed it to length and turned the rear register,bored the piston shaft hole out to drawing Job done ,off for a brew .

then on with some drilling ,using tool made earlier with recess ,sat on cover plate register clamped and transfer dilled holes into cover,then used cover to transfer drill holes into crosshead flange cooking on gas now ,off for a brew .


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## chillybilly (Nov 4, 2009)

Now the cylinder needs attention .

Need to get two holes drill through the wall to create steam passage .bit tricky .

Best plan i came up with was using my angle plate (gently nipped up )then the cyliner mounted on that .

Found position ,flatted the hole position with fc3 cutter then drill through ,guess what, it was cock on Yipee :big: 
fitted small slot mill and machined the slot in place ,turned the cylinder round and repaeated for the other one Job don o.f.a.b.

Then test fitted it all together Looking something like i think ,its pretty big !!!!


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## chillybilly (Nov 10, 2009)

Managed to get some done over the weekend ,decided to machine the crosshead slots with the crosshead fitted to the cylinder to keep it all square and also give me something to hold onto .
Machined up a blanking plate with a centre hole for the open end to offer some support and gently milled the slots with a 3/8 endmill .
Also got the lower mount plate machined up and the columns so now i have something that looks like an engine instead of a box of bits .Got to say its very satisfying to have it put together on the bench ,and it all fits !!!!!!

Going to concentrate now on getting the crosshead in place and the piston shaft /piston in place ,get that sorted then start on the valve gear ....


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## chillybilly (Nov 14, 2009)

Been busy with the crosshead shaft this recently .Squared the bolck drilled hole to connect shaft .threaded shaft ,turned register behind thread ,clocked and C/D 'd opposite end ,brazed two parts together .Clocked off register ,c/d block ,drilled hole for the link pin ,drilled holes to mount brass straight through (big mistake ) as due to the small dia the drill wanmdered on the far side of the block ,maening that one of the brass blocks will not fit properly 

Mounted job between centres turned brass to size ,then turned shaft ,burnt the tool out ,got a major taper in the shaft 

Decided to continue so that i could check the alignment between the bottom and top ends .Pleased to say it all ligns up well ,and runs fine using an electric drill and an "o" ring to turn it over .
Do still need to make a new crosshead shaft in the long run as this one is a bit "Shoddy"
Real pleasure to see it turning over though .............

Which bit next ??????? ;D


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## steamer (Nov 14, 2009)

Looking Awesome....Ray will be pleased! ;D


Dave


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## chillybilly (Nov 22, 2009)

All been a bit slow since i managed to marry the two halfs together but there you go .
Have got on with the ecentric straps ,going to use a plain PH bush for these rather than the big money bearing in the drawing .

Plan is to shrink fit the PH blank into the strap and then bore them out from there.

Milled them as a pair on the RT ,did not really make the blank big enough however which did mean i had to make a sacrificial blank to saw them into two ,so in trying to save material i actually used muckh more . Ho hum ???


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## chillybilly (Nov 24, 2009)

Eventually finished milling the straps ,they took a few cups of tea to finish ...and some biccys .

Didnt leave enough to split them and there was not enough room to do them with a slitting saw,so hade to make a sacrificil arbour mount them on that then did them on the Horizontal band saw.good opertunity to have a brew ......

turned thr PB blanks and shrank them into the straps ,then mounted the straps in the softies and bored through the hole and faced both sides .I left the shoulder on the bush so that it can bare upon the side of the ecentric should that be required .

I had already made the eccentrics to fit a ball race and being as i would need some mega money for those i decided on the plain bush ,this has required me to remake the eccentrics .Should get them done by the end of the week ....should have a bit more movements in the engine then .

Does seem to be coming together now which is very pleasing


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## Deanofid (Nov 24, 2009)

It's all looking quite good, Chilly!

What are biccys?

While I'm at it, what's a bacon botty? I know you didn't mention that, but I figure if you know what one is, there's a chance you know about the other.

Dean


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## deverett (Nov 26, 2009)

Biccys = biscuits, preferably dark chocolate coated digestives from a personal point of view.

Bacon Butty = bacon sandwich. How it got the 'butty' name I've no idea, but no doubt there will be a suitable explanation coming forth from the cognoscenti.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## steamer (Nov 26, 2009)

Thanks for posting that Dave....Wish my VanNorman had flood coolant....she could use it......Don't think the wife would approve though 8)


Got a boat to go with that engine yet? ;D

Dave


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## chillybilly (Nov 26, 2009)

Reckon steamdave covered all the abreviations there !!

I like "jammy Dodgers " :big:

As to boats ,not really my thing ...Unlimitted class Hydroplanes possibly .

Engine is just a project ,gonna run the Lasses water feature in the garden with it ,probably on air or ofn .Just for fun ...

Might do a v twin next and find someone who has a boat with no engine LOL


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## chillybilly (Nov 29, 2009)

managed to get some time in the shop over the weekend ,made a good start on the valve chest .This part is 1" thick so it takes some milling !

Blocking up the material took ages ...nuff said 

To make things easier i drilled through at each corner of the slot and a couple of times in the slot ,at these kind of depths it really helped ,once the material was removed from the centre i cleand up the walls and brought them to size with an end mill and a decent finish .

I then set up and drilled the 12 holes to mount it all together.All this doesnt look alot for the time taken ,its all pretty big stuff ,good fun :big:

Next thing is to mark out the valve rod holes position and get it drilled out in the lathe and turn the gland and shoulder on the thin end .

Holding this is gonna be fun !!!!!!!!!!!!


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## steamer (Nov 29, 2009)

Face Plate or Four Jaw.....Never underestimate either....they are marvelous!


Dave


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## chillybilly (Nov 29, 2009)

Yeh ,was thinking 4 jaw ,faceplates can be a little troublesome in my experience with things as long as this,though tat would avoid the chance of closing inthe walls on the chest...................will give it some thought while at work tomorrow


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## John S (Nov 29, 2009)

chillybilly  said:
			
		

> Reckon steamdave covered all the abreviations there !!
> 
> I like "jammy Dodgers " :big:



So do I, and hob nobs so bring some round next time you come.

John S.


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## steamer (Nov 29, 2009)

See if you can get a strap bolt into one of the jaw slots.


Or, center drill the gland boss, and bring the tailstock up while you finish the outside of the gland.  IIRC it has a threaded OD.


Turn up the gland nut before hand and leave the OD large.

Thread the male gland and then spin the nut on.

With the tailstock back in position, turn the OD of the nut to clean...still oversize, but round and in position.

Now mount a steady rest on this OD and finish out the bore.

Finish the nut later....


OR...you could just follow the directions that Ray gives with his engines ;D


Dave


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## Deanofid (Nov 29, 2009)

The steam chest looks really nice, Chilly. 
I don't remember if you had mentioned it, but do you have an idea of the size of boat the engine will power? 

I have, what will probably be, another dumb question.
You said you'd run it on air, or maybe ofn. What's ofn?

With all the talk of biccys, bacon buttys, hob nobs, jammy dodgers, and ofn, I'm missing some of the things in our "common" language!

I once wrote a detailed shutter repair article for a classic camera forum, and a number of people sent their thanks, along with one fellow from Scotland who said I was a jammy dodger. I just told him "Thanks!", hoping it was an appropriate response. 
Kind of like when someone speaks to you in a foreign language. You don't know if he is saying "Your mom is a nice lady" or "Your breath smells like dog butt", so, you just smile and nod...
Sorry for the silly questions.

Good progress on this build.

Dean


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## chillybilly (Nov 30, 2009)

John ,will endavour to bring some biccys on next visit ,just need to shake off "big brother " and will get over .

OFN (oxygen free nitrogen) good stuff if you not paying for it .

As for the valve chest ,thanks for advice ,will give it some thought today ,thanks for advice .

Better hit the road now .................................


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## chillybilly (Dec 2, 2009)

decided on the 4 jaw in the end ,bit of a slow steady job but a good end result ,all to size .Made hell of a mess with the chips from the interupted cut though !!
Drilling the end support hole is proving a challenge it 5.5" depth ,so the plan is to make a drill extension to get the hole to depth ,onle need a .250" to get there .
Had to move the engione omn the bench this eve ,boy its getting heavy !!!

Onward and Upward .................


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## chillybilly (Dec 11, 2009)

Well been at the biccys and the tea again ,making the steam valve between slurps 

Material recomended is bronze or CI,well i have niether,sooooooooooooo

Got an old brass valve from work and set about on the saw (new blade is the biz JS)
eventually got a reasonable size piece off it ,stuck it on the mill and machined it flat .both sides 

Next got a lump of steel and milled a face flat on that ,then silver soldered the two together .........easy 

Then back to the saw to bring it nearer to size then blocked up on the mill , gave the top steel face a skim then laid it down on the steel and machined the brass face flat and milled the pocket into it ,leaving some plus for final fitting into the valve chest .

Flipped it over ,machined down to size plus a bit ,found the centre and drilled the 0.500" hole ,flat bottomed it ,then machined the .250" slot right through to depth .

Just need to put the angles onto it and that should be another part done .

After considerable thought i have decided to get reversing quadrant thingy laser cut at a local place in stainless ,i understand that this is not really the true form ,but after looking into it (with help from peeps on this forum ) i decided that the time and material/setup made it a little unviable att present .Further too that Santa claus was struggling as to what to put in my stocking ....Two birds with one stone me thinks :big:


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## steamer (Dec 12, 2009)

Nice job with the Four Jaw John.....What a great invention those Four jaws....
Dave


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## chillybilly (Dec 30, 2009)

Right that s xmas out the way ,i have been sneaking off regularly to "do a bit".

Santa brought me the plate parts so that means i can crack on with the various parts that assemble the valve gear .

Link arm is ally just done in the vice no major dramas ,pic shows all done bar the thinning of one of the legs.

Brass parts are for the reversing mechanism and again were straight forward vice jobs .Not alot but certainly maens i am one step closer to the running of it phase ..............

Excuse duff pics ,think i got and oily something on the lens


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## chillybilly (Jan 6, 2010)

managed to do a couple hours over the last few days ,its a bit cold for any prolonged sessions .

Managed to get the lugs brazed on to the lower plate and all machined back ,this was due to having an insufficient size left in the original stock once i had removed all the damage i had caused with the plasma cutter!!!!!!!!!!! Ll done now no drama .

Cut and threaded the valve rods(eccentric to the valve gear)made a basic jig so as to get them both the same length .

Couldnt resist the chance of bolting it all onto the front of the engine since Mr Claus came up with my laser cut parts so pic below .

The engine is now approching the point where all the bits have to meet together to perform the right action ,so you find out where all the mistakes are !!!! :


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## Deanofid (Jan 6, 2010)

It's coming along nicely, Chilly.
That name of yours really tells true this time of year, doesn't it?

; )

Dean


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## chillybilly (Jan 7, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> It's coming along nicely, Chilly.
> That name of yours really tells true this time of year, doesn't it?
> 
> ; )
> ...


you are not wrong ,"chillybilly" was the man who turned the light on when you opened the fridge door in a book back in my school days ,i nicked it based on my occupation and my christinan name ,cool eh


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## chillybilly (Jan 7, 2010)

Had a moment of clarity today ,you know how you do ................

This engine with a 2.250" bore and a 3" stroke is going to consume a large volume of whichever gas i run it on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Which means the plan of running it to power a pump may be massively expensive.....

I feel a little deflated ............ :'(


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## steamer (Jan 7, 2010)

You'll need a 10 sq ft water tube boiler or a 15 sq ft firetube boiler....


 ;D Don't let that scare ya.....you only live once and you can't take the money with ya... ;D

Dave


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## JohnLanark (Jan 7, 2010)

Hi Chillybilly, nice work on that engine!

The Steam Boat Association of GB has a boiler design library at http://www.steamboat.org.uk/sbas_boiler_designs.htm
I believe the two drum watertube boiler would suit your engine if it's not to be pressed too hard. Hope this may help. (I'll shortly be starting to build the three drum weldless watertube one.) John.


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## chillybilly (Jan 7, 2010)

Drat drat and double drat !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

thanks fellas ,boiler gonna be massive it seems !!!!!


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## chillybilly (Jan 13, 2010)

Gonna decide on this boiler thing when i got the engine done i think .

Been busy getting all the little bushes and spacers sorted to keep all the valve gear smooth .

Have also been looking at the flywheel pretty big 5" dia and 2" thick on the smaller dia.

Keyway is the issue .Have ground a tool (pic) to do the job using the carrige method ,not something i am too familier with ,so any tips or advice please would be helpfull ,one being how do you get the tool on the centre lign accurately so you can cut the keyway ???

Thanks in advance


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## Maryak (Jan 14, 2010)

CB,

This is my way others may have better ideas. 

1st up the diameter of the flywheel must be accurately marked off.

Next 2 lines parallel to the diameter line and to 1/2 the width of the keyway are marked either side of the centre/diameter line.

With the flywheel chucked true these lines are set horizontal with the lathe in its' lowest gear/speed. Power OFF.

The boring bar with keyway tool is now set up so that firstly the cutting edge is vertical, i.e. at right angles to the 3 lines.

Next the tool is brought up to the front face and adjusted vertically to match the the 2 outer lines.

When all this is according to Hoyle it's time to start cutting.

Put the tool a short way into the hole and feed out on the X slide until it just touches the inside of the bore. Adjust to Zero/note the reading.

Back out the tool using the saddle and then take a full length cut using the saddle. If all is OK there will be 2 parallel lines in the bore.

These lines/cuts will be deeper at the start than at the finish due to spring in the boring bar so try and keep the overhang to a minimum.

I don't know the size of your machine but for a decent sized 6"UK/12"US lathe the maximum cut depth would be around 0.005" and that's also with a pretty hefty boring bar. 

In any event a minimum of 3 passes per cut are required and when you get to the full width of the keyway reduce outfeed to 0.002" and as many passes as necessary.

It's a long finicky job, rushing it will overstress the lathe or stuff up the keyway/flywheel.

Hope this helps and Good Luck.

Best Regards
Bob


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## chillybilly (Jan 15, 2010)

thanks bob , followed your instructions in some ally to proof the tooling and get a setup ,all went well ,you are right it is a long job ! Will get the fly wheel started over the weekend ,maybe


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## chillybilly (Mar 7, 2010)

Well how the time flys !!! Not managed any work on the #10 of recent times due to my mate who is an avid drag race competitor wanting me to make all these fancy bits for the new machine he is building ! Turbo mounting flanges ,exhaust header sleeves ,rear axle spacers etc Really good fun and i get to watch the machine perform over the summer months !!! With my bits attached !

I will be picking up the work on the #10 very soon ,regardless that it will never run in the way i had wished at the start ,i have to much time effort invested in it now to jack it in and i despise half finished projects in my shop .

Onward and upward


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## John S (Mar 7, 2010)

chillybilly  said:
			
		

> Had a moment of clarity today ,you know how you do ................
> 
> This engine with a 2.250" bore and a 3" stroke is going to consume a large volume of whichever gas i run it on !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> ...



Got a nitrogen bottle haven't you ?

John S.


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## chillybilly (Mar 8, 2010)

Certainly have john ,at least i have while i am still with this employer ,problem is one of volume ,reckon a bottle will run the engine for 10 mins at good power which means i will only be able to run the pump for 10 mins or so .Will get over with some bics in the next couple of weeks ,have been working elsewhere since xmas


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## chillybilly (Mar 23, 2010)

Managed to get the main directional link arm bit milled up at the weekend .Did have pics but the camera has decided to pack a sad !!Will sort and post


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## chillybilly (Mar 26, 2010)

Here is a pic of the engine as it stands ,since last one i have been making all the various linkage arms and the lever for the reverse.Will remove the piston rod this weekend and get the thread on that and get the piston knocked up .Got some hols from work now so you never know .................


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## chillybilly (May 4, 2010)

We got a live one ..............IT works :big:

Needs a bit of refinement but fundamently it works


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## SAM in LA (May 4, 2010)

chillybilly  said:
			
		

> We got a live one ..............IT works :big:
> 
> Needs a bit of refinement but fundamently it works



Chillybilly,

Congratulations.

 th_wwp

SAM


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## steamer (May 4, 2010)

Oh we want pictures!!!!! ;D

Congratulations!

Dave


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## chillybilly (May 5, 2010)

Thanks fellas ,need to get the cylinder firmly secured down and i will have a go at doin the vid thing .

It looks the same as previous ,just with all the brass bushes in the valve gear ,its still in the embryonic state with a magnesiun piston and a neww bore ,and some very pants O rings .

Have only run it on air as a boiler to run it is a whole different kettle of fish :-\


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## Maryak (May 7, 2010)

CB,

Congratulations - nice looking engine. :bow:....................what was that about a vid ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## chillybilly (May 29, 2010)

Still working on vid ,need to get it from the Nokia format to windows something ......on the case .

Have a daft question regards the #10 .
Should the pressure be applied to the valve chest and let the movement of the valve allow the pressure into the cylinder or should it be applied to the central feed into the steam valve and then depending on the valve position be directed into the cylinder either ,the exhaust pressure being released into the valve chest .The engine seems to work in either config......mad world 8)


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## RonGinger (May 29, 2010)

Steam should be supplied to the valve chest. That causes it to put pressure on the D valve to help it seal. If you supply steam through the central- exhaust- port you tend to lift the valve off its seat.


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## chillybilly (May 29, 2010)

Thanks ron ,makes sense i guess.Shall plumb it that way round :big:


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