# Black protective oil coating



## Lindo

I have made a few clamps for the mill table.
need to protect from "Rust".
I believe it's possible to heat up and dunk in oil.
Thinking of using my wood stove as the heat source,what color should the parts be when hot before the oil dip to achieve the blackening effect 

Thanks
John
Spain


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## Tin Falcon

It depends if you want to color the parts or harden . Black heat is around 500 degrees. If you want to harden get it orange depend on the steel if it will harden. 
tin


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## Lindo

Just to color,should act as a rust preventative I think.
and makes the parts look nice

John


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## goldstar31

Ola, Snr John. 

This rust thing is really nothing to do with heating up steel plates and dipping them in oil of some sort.

True, you can colour but you can't prevent rust. As you live in Spain, you will probably have a paella pan which has had more hardened oil on it than you will get in a workshop- and it will rust.

Probably, the only way that you can minimise rust in the workshop is to phosphate the item and then put on some thing like paint or a wax.

Sadly, this colouring of metal and rust prevention are an old wives' tale that has occupied industry - since time immortal. Go into your local scrap yard. There will be at least one old Seat left and it will be a rust bucket. All the facilities in the Seat factory in Barcelona with fancy this and fancy that- will have failed. Audi, VW and Seat are now using galvanised parts. 

On a more cheerful note( pun intended), I did enjoy your stuff on saxophones. Happily, my wife has a whole set and not a dent to be seen. Complete new ball game- she's just bought one of these plastic ones.

Salud, pesetas

Norman


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## Omnimill

I've had some success with steel by heating until the steel is deep blue/purple then dunking it in engine oil.


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## goldstar31

Agreed, agreed but my father and the rest of the tribe were all blacksmiths back to Shildon and Timothy Hackworth and his locomotives competing with George Stephenson and me, in a different sphere made coatings as one time- and everything rusted.  Dad used to drop his hot metal into pitch and Uncle Harry used to coat his trials bikes in thick grease- but the answer was always the same.
 I've got one of these double distinction things in tin bashing  in a drawer somewhere- and nothing really works. #
 We even had a brand new, top of the range Mercedes and I got two new front wings, two doors and a tailgate and four new alloys- and so on. Been there, paid me hard earned cash, wore out a few tee shirts and all that.


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## gus

goldstar31 said:


> Ola, Snr John.
> 
> This rust thing is really nothing to do with heating up steel plates and dipping them in oil of some sort.
> 
> True, you can colour but you can't prevent rust. As you live in Spain, you will probably have a paella pan which has had more hardened oil on it than you will get in a workshop- and it will rust.
> 
> Probably, the only way that you can minimise rust in the workshop is to phosphate the item and then put on some thing like paint or a wax.
> 
> Sadly, this colouring of metal and rust prevention are an old wives' tale that has occupied industry - since time immortal. Go into your local scrap yard. There will be at least one old Seat left and it will be a rust bucket. All the facilities in the Seat factory in Barcelona with fancy this and fancy that- will have failed. Audi, VW and Seat are now using galvanised parts.
> 
> On a more cheerful note( pun intended), I did enjoy your stuff on saxophones. Happily, my wife has a whole set and not a dent to be seen. Complete new ball game- she's just bought one of these plastic ones.
> 
> Salud, pesetas
> 
> Norman



Need your expert advice on hobby phoshating. Did eye witness the phosphating and spray painting 30 years ago.True .No Rust and the paint coat
sticks on like crazy.
 Currently all DIY accessories and tools are sanded down to bare metal and coated with 2T Oil and kept on my Computer Desk in the bedroom which air-con at night. So far so good.


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## goldstar31

Greetings Gus for Christmas and our Two New Years!

 As far as possible, the trick is to degrease- thoroughly. No oil, no grease or whatever. Bright shiny and-- clinically clean. Then you need phosphoric acid- and probably mixed with hydrochloric and sulphuric acids. I would guess that a good professional motor factors will have something that the real guys use to prepare steel body work prior to painting.  It will etch into the steel and you will need to dry it with a heat gun. You then need either a zinc based or chromate based primer to effectively keep out the damp and you then can put on primers and finally the finish coats of paint- and if you can a good wax based preservative. It doesn't stop rust but you will get long lasting stuff.

 To reminisce, Rolls Royce used to put on 22 coats of brushed primer- rubbing down every two coats and then put on about 14 to 18 coats of finish- again rubbing down every second coat.

 The legend was that the foreman used to come in on a Saturday morning, sprinkle the floor with water to settle any dust and after he had thrown the cat out, did the final coat of paint.

 Today, paint is water based but it is baked on-rather like the old days of stove enamelling. I've scratched the big Audi. It is a silver one. I have to dig in to remove the scratched in dirt and then build it up level and then airbrush it and then after numerous buildings up, put on clear over base coatings.

 Happily, I don't scratch my cars very often but you can see just how much hand work is required to achieve a finish.


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## Tin Falcon

Lindo : 

I will attempt to simplify things here. 
I have done the oil dip things a couple times with knurls heat red hot with a torch dip in used motor oil  brush clean then re oil. 
I have done similar with blacksmith  scroll work projects. heat to black heat then coat with wax. 
by black heat I mean take a shinny piece of steel and heat until it turns blue to dark gray. 







But beware this will soften hardened steel.
But to answer your original question you will need to get to the 700 -800 degree rance to obtain black heat. 

the other methods are to use a chemical conversion  most tool suppliers industrial supply houses have tool black. 
Beechwood Casey the maker of gun blue for home uses also sells tool black. 

In any case you are creating a layer of black oxidation to prevent brown oxidation from happening.  so store in a wooden tool chest oild oncein a while and this will prevent rust.

tin


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## gus

Hi Tin,

Will try your blue/black method and dip into motor oil. 
Years back found a rust preventive/preservative but my skin reacted badly. 
WD-40 doesn't work well .
Meanwhile DIY tools which were sanded down to bare metal,polished and oiled and stored  
 in-door on my PC Desk have not rusted but occasional maintainance required.

This thread been very useful and interesting. Done blue-ing in Trade School but never as good as the gun smith.


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## GWRdriver

Over the years I've had very good (ie, rust resisting) results blacking steel with oil but the secret is to use very dirty oil, as dirty and carbon & contaminate-saturated as can be had.  I have a very old lawnmower which I flog mercilessly and rarely change the oil in which provides me with a supply of blacking oil.  It makes a horrible stink, when I quench, but the stinkier the better.


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## Lindo

Tin
Useful colour/heat chart Thanks.
Checked out Birchwood Casey products,not sure if they will ship to Spain from the UK,but have asked the question.
What do you think about painting with high temp paint,as used on restoring old BBQ's ,steel ovens etc and then
bake at about 200 degrees C.
possibly thin the paint down with 20% solvent.
If you buy a set of mill clamps (Chinese type) for example,what are they using to create the black finish?

John


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## Swifty

Mill clamps etc are most likely done in a heated black oxide bath, had a lot done when I was working. I have a home kit for black oxide treatment, it works really well. Consists of a degreaser, etcher, blackening and a soluable oil bath to finish. In between each bath is a clean water bath. All concentrated solutions, as purchased, are mixed with water and I have found that they don't go off. I have been using the same baths for 10 years and just occasionally add a bit more concentrate. My set up is in 4 X 2litre buckets with lids, I use any clean container for the water rinses.

Here is a link to a list of world distributors. http://www.blackfast.com/distributors/

Paul.


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## Gedeon Spilett

I do often steel blackening by diping in oil, I use it for protection or just as decorative mean. You can easyly obtain most of the coulours shown on the pretty chart above, but they change rapidely without a dedicated oven. 
But of course, unwanted effects on hardness may occurs with carbon steel. 
I agree with a previous post : dirty oil seems protect better against rust. 
Clean parts, dirty oil and homogeneous heating are the secrets. 
The blackened baseplate of my last tiny steam engine don't rust, as compared to other steel parts (already derusted!)


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## Wizard69

Interesting thread!

I've used cold blacken compounds with mixed results.   I'm not sure why but following the directions seemed to make the blackening worst as I got blotches or uneven blackening.   The thought I have right now is that the water is to hard to use in the cleaning process.   Not sure really.

I'm considering alternatives to blackening though and have to ask if anybody has experience with the various spray on and bake gun finishes?    Here I'm thinking Cerakote, DuraKote, Gunkote, Molykote and the like.    In most forms these are spray on and bake coatings that require sand blasting or parkerising before the finish is applied.  

My first problem is that I don't have a sand blaster so comments from others that have actually used these coatings on tools would be helpful.   Otherwise I would have to go out and buy yet more tools with money I don't have at the moment.  Not to mention an oven and the other goodies to apply the finishes.  

By the way these finishes aren't cheap at all so probably are best reserved for high value tools and creations.  If they work well it would be worth it on at least some things we make.  I find the rust control issue to be very frustrating so new tech would be welcomed if it works well.


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## Swifty

I've found that with the water based cold blackening solutions, it is important that the parts are oil free. I generally wash the parts with acetone or methylated spirits before they go into the degreasing bath.

If you check out this post, scroll down a bit and you will see the results that I get with the blackening solution. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f13/er20-5c-adaptor-20647/

Paul.


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## mecanotrain

Hello All,
As Gedeon Spilett ( hello François !) said, I burnished steel heating behold my method:
I put the parts on a hotplate (1500W) with an electronic controller (home made)




I heat units at 400 ° C for 25-30 mn




I dip the pieces in oil drain VERY BLACK.

Here is the result with 3 parts:


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## Wizard69

Swifty said:


> I've found that with the water based cold blackening solutions, it is important that the parts are oil free. I generally wash the parts with acetone or methylated spirits before they go into the degreasing bath.
> 
> If you check out this post, scroll down a bit and you will see the results that I get with the blackening solution. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f13/er20-5c-adaptor-20647/


That is outstanding compared to what I got.   Do you remember the brand for the blackening agent?   


> Paul.




Thanks for the hint!   I had scrubbed the part with the supplied cleaner but did not try acetone before that.   The agent I was using was a gel like substance.   Now that you have me thinking I'm wondering if my handling between stages left oils from the skin on the parts.  I'm almost certain it wasn't me though, which is why I wondered about hard water.  

I think the next time I will look for a dipable agent.


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## Swifty

Use the link in post 13 to find distributors for Blackfast solution. I purchased my initial kit over 12 years ago for about A$125, even if it's double that nowadays, it's well worth it.

I may do a separate posting showing how to use the solution and the time it takes.

Paul.


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## goldstar31

Wizard69 said:


> I think the next time I will look for a dipable agent.


 
 If you read my posts , I was emphatic about 'clean' and used the adjective 'clinically'.  Whilst I used acetone and a lot of even more dangerous substances, the ordinary man in his shed might not/cannot access these items and two easily obtained cleaners do the job reasonably well.

 We used to boil out the crap/  gels and whatevers that were burnt on with 'cows dick' or boiling strong solution of caustic soda which acted like  soap. 

 Again, todays cure- the cheap and easily obtained one is- the common or garden household dishwasher- which uses largely salt. 

 Wandering off course, are those famous beasties called fish eyes- from silicones. Of the record even further was the paint problem of the Hillman Imps-- and the wrong water. 

 Big, big topic. I'm merely scratching at the surface!


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## Omnimill

Good idea on the dishwasher tablets Norman, I would not have thought of that! They are caustic and must contain sufficants as well. Will be a safer and less smelly alternative to sulphuric acid drain cleaner or caustic soda that I normally use.


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## macmarch

Hi all,

For 'ordinary' steel, ie non hardened then I still have steel devices that I made when an apprentice, (50yrs ago), stillnot gone rusty. " methods were used.
1)   Clean and then heat part up to 200/300 degrees then drop into USED engine oil for 24 hrs.  Its the old carbon that does the trick.

2)   Send the part to the platers and have it phosphated then bichromated and passivated. 

HTH


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## Swifty

Great idea Norman, I forgot about the dishwasher tablets or powder. Even though we use tablets in our dishwasher, I keep some powder on hand to mix with hot water and clean the BBQ, certainly gets rid of grease and oil.

Of course, there are commercial business's around that do hot blackening, the only problem is the minimum charge, if you were making something large like a locomotive with side frames and running gear, it would be worthwhile considering. But with the small pieces, it's still a home job.

Paul.


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## goldstar31

Nice to be able to pass on a comment! It gets a bit sillier-or more sensible( choose which).
 Actually, Swifty you made  the ash in the BBQ is lye which is the basis of many soaps. Abrasives or many of the finer ones come from something called fly ash from power stations. So you are probably cleaning your teeth with coal ash! And paying for it!

 On the subject( or not, so choose) my mad family of heart surgeons, dentists , children's doctors and the village idiot( me) were having a sort of laugh over the remains of the dead turkey( as one does)

 We lost a member of the family- we really did, in the past and he was blown up with collected urine.
 Urine was the most important product of Tyneside. No, not coal, not ships or guns or lots of things but good old fashioned pee. Unknown to most, it makes explosives, stuff for whitening teeth, for removing stains and stuff to make nitre to do steel.

 Our departed cousin, bless him, got involved with a load of urine ready for export and it exploded. 

 Afraid it is all quite true. 

 Happy New Year- if you don't try to do it at home.


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## Swifty

Norman, I recall reading a novel by Wilbur Smith where they collected urine to add together with other ingredients to make gunpowder. I wonder how they collected the urine in Tyneside, did all the population contribute. Maybe that's what all the pathology labs do with the urine once they are finished with their various tests.

Anyway, happy new year.

Paul.


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## goldstar31

We are moving away from the main topic but others do!

 Recall the expression 'Piss Poor' when people were actually too poor to own a container.
 There's an expression about a pot to piss in. 

 Recently the TV in the UK has been running a series on a Monastery Farm and there has been a wonderful set of clips on how people lived and how they made lead and how they made gunpowder fireworks.  It was all very jolly about how they made 'booze' and I just wonder what really went on- behind the scenes. 

 However, urine was used to tan leather as well as clean stains. Again, I recall Bob Hope( ah?) singing about 'We are Morocco Bound' and recalling that Moroccan leather was tanned with collected dog poo.

 On another forum there is a sort of happy romp of old farts like me talking about steel making and iron railings and whatever is remotely printable. I had a British WW1 tank in the furnace and we had a lark on how to sink battleships.  I then recalled my dear old Dad tempering steel and obviously there was no such amenity as a toilet so he and the rest of the gang kept topping up the water tank beside the forge.

 Another of my collection of nut cases always wanted to do Roman iron work. he wanted to know how the Centurions or whoever they were built the Roman Wall just North of here and it was built with mortar reinforced with --blood. No, sir, I never found out! Then I 'did' Herman Melville's Moby Dick again and the harpoon was tempered in blood donated by the harpooners. It got quite exciting to find that in steel or iron smelting that one authority recommended the urine from a ginger headed boy.

 From an engineering point of view it is worth looking up this urine thing.

 Happy New Year, keep well

 Norman


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## Gedeon Spilett

just a note about post 23 (Swifty) on dishwasher powder : the degreasing power comes from the enzymes (from bacterial origin) included in those powders in addition to detergents, lipase that digests lipids and protease for proteins. This is Biotech, not chemistry. 
It is not recommanded to use the tablets with bare hands, they would dissolve your fingers at the end, but not the bones for now, I guess. 
Many receipes generally suggest that there is not one really superior to the other, at least in the home workshop, you have to experiment to find the most convenient way to blacken your steel parts i'm afraid...
Cheers & happy new year


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## Lindo

Lots of good replies on this topic from Chemistry to bodily functions.
A local Spanish gent told me to clean the steel with white vinegar,dip in olive oil,
dip in chimney soot and bake in a fire 250 dec C,resting the parts on a shovel
to keep away from the ash.
Also he has used Black boot polish and baked.
I have sulphuric acid and will dilute to 15% Add ACID to WATER ( I remember from A&W root beer).Then try out various suggestions and see what happens.

John
Spain


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## gus

*Chemical Blacking.*
Just found this article from Model Engineer's Workshop December 2013 No.210.
Covers Chemical Blacking/Chemical Browning/Hot Oil Blacking etc.3 1/2 pages to read.
*Hot Oil Blacking.*
Veggie Oil gave best results.

Happy New Year .
(and happy blacking)


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## Lindo

Happy new year to all.
I have made some extension arms for my circular table,need in the future for
holding the wheels of the minnie traction engine I am building.
Have posted attachments of my first time blacking process using the old boys
recipe
1 dipped in diluted sulphuric acid.
2 dipped in olive oil
3 painted on warm black KIWI boot polish
4 oven baked at 240 deg C +/- a few degrees.
Seems to have done the trick.
As a previous post,here in Spain most older houses have "Rejas" grills,
these were not to keep the thieves out,mainly to keep the young girls
in,they were only allowed out with chaperones.many rejas were fashioned with scrolls and blacksmith's handy work,and used the soot from chimneys for the blacking compound.
After the treatment bolted on to the table and flycut the faces flat and parallel.
Photos also show the tee slot cutter I made,possibly will never need to use again.
I have the clamps I made to blacken,will treat with the same process

Regards
John
Spain


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## Wizard69

Talk about timing!

I just picked up my copy of Model Engineers Workshop and wouldn't you know it but there is an article on blackening steel!   Haven't read the article yet but I'm letting you guys know to enhance the discussion.


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## abby

I have two Pultra lathes , these are  very high quality instrument makers lathes . I have one as a standard centre lathe and the other as a capstan for production runs of small parts.
Why have I posted here ? well one of the accessories I thought would be useful is a QCTP so over the holiday I made some. I made the tool post from close grained cast iron and the tool holders from a good quality steel although not hardenable.
I always "black" my tools where possible , ok it doesn't totally prevent rust but the tools can be left on the bench for months without showing signs of rust.
The black colour is in fact  black iron oxide and it is formed by heating the parts to a very dull red and dunking in oil. The oil doesn't do anything to the colour, it simply soaks into the oxide layer and helps to prolong the finish. I use old cooking oil but anything will do.
For an even coat the parts should be degreased , I simply boil for 10 minutes or so in water with some washing detergent , rinse off with hot water and allow to air dry.
Try to avoid touching the parts after cleaning , I thread them onto a piece of welding wire first.











The tools are 3/16" square which will give a scale reference.
Dan.


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## modeng2000

That looks a nice finish Abby.

John


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## gus

Hi Abby,

Will monkey see monkey do now that I bought l Mapp Gas Torch with three burners. Camping Gas Torch can't do the job.
Sick and tired of having to remove rust. Foto shows a newly mint DIY QCTP. Will post picture
of blackened QCTP.


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## barnesrickw

Is that acrylic scrap in the background?


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## abby

Gus I use a self blowing torch (25mm nozzle) hooked up to a 47 kg propane cylinder , very convenient but there is a lot to be said for a petrol or paraffin blowlamp.
You won't easily silver solder a large boiler with one , although before bottled gas that's mainly what was used.
I have a couple which I haven't used for years but will not scrap because .... well you never know !


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## BaronJ

Hi Abby,

Very nice finish.  I'm most impressed.  I hope my pieces come out looking that good when I try blacking.


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## Walltoddj

If you are looking to Blacken as most tools are it's very simple with no heating of the tools. I've been using a couple different ones to do gun parts as well as my tools and it has a sealer to. The first one I tried was from Eastwood at http://www.eastwood.com/metal-blackening-system-set.html this is a fairly cheap investment if you want to start. The second type was from EPI at http://www.epi.com/c/black-oxide/steel/room-temperature-black-oxide this works a little faster but cost more. Both have a sealer or coat it with oil works well.

Todd


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## abby

Todd I am sure most of us have come across chemical colouring kits and solutions especially for gun "blueing" , but you have to buy them , the whole point of the heating process is that it is free and anyone can do it.


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## barnesrickw

Intentional oxidation is always so much prettier.


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## Hopper

Parkerizing is a good low-cost DIY home blacking method too. I have Harley parts that were Parkerized in WW2 that still have not rusted.

Good thread on doing it on the cheap here: 
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f25/easy-home-parkerizing-steel-iron-us-formula-2787/

Or you can buy kits on the net.
Seems like phosphating but with zinc added.


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## Lindo

Abby
Very nice job.
Say hello to Coventry for me,I served my apprenticeship at Coventry Gauge and Tool from 1967-71

Regards
John
Spain


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## abby

Lol Lindo  you must be 1 year older than me ! the Matrix has long gone , it was last known as Churchill Matrix and made CNC lathes, I had a contact in the paint shop (very useful). I understand that it was 10% owned by the Iraqi's and closed down after being accused of making parts for the super gun project. I had several pals serving their apprenticeships in Coventry factories such as Bristol Siddeley , now part of Rolls Royce , and Alfred Herberts not to mention the car factories , all gone to the scrapyard, even the football team plays in Northampton 'cos they can't afford the rent on the new stadium.
Plenty of jobs for youngsters collecting supermarket trolleys though or cooking burgers in a Macdonalds .


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## Walltoddj

Tin Falcon said:


> Lindo :
> 
> But beware this will soften hardened steel.
> But to answer your original question you will need to get to the 700 -800 degree rance to obtain black heat.
> 
> the other methods are to use a chemical conversion  most tool suppliers industrial supply houses have tool black.
> Beechwood Casey the maker of gun blue for home uses also sells tool black.
> 
> In any case you are creating a layer of black oxidation to prevent brown oxidation from happening.  so store in a wooden tool chest oild oncein a while and this will prevent rust.
> 
> tin


 
As Tin Falcon stated it may soften hardened steel was my concern due to the 700-800 F if I'm converting correctly is on the border of drawing a part back after heat treating. As for cleaning I always hang my parts from a wire so I touch them once the cleaning starts, I also wear rubber dish washing gloves so no oils from me. If you are trying to protect a tool from rust that gets little use but you need to have it I spray mine with Spray-on PDRP it's a great rust preventative that goes on a little like water to get into all the cracks then drys to a waxy film that wipes off with a little thinner when needed. I spray and store all my steel that way because it may be months before it's use and I've seen it sweat from temp changes.

Todd


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## Walltoddj

Reading this post got me thinking I work with coating guns, models, tools, and etc. I'm trying to get set up to Anodize Aluminum parts at this time and have most of what is needed. This Parkerizing sounds great so I goggled some info there is a lot of things out to work with Brownells has two pdf. files of how to  1- http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/Inst-482 Parkerizing.pdf   2- http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/learn/Inst-566 Zinc parkerizing PD Bl.pdf I thought this might be of interest to all and a fairly cheap place to get Zinc Phosphate Parkerizing Solution if you find a better price please let me know I will be buying some soon. I'm in process of compiling all the info I find into one pdf. if you are interested let me know I don't want problems because it's compiled from different sources. 
​
LCW ZPS16 Zinc Phospha...
*$22.66*
Pricefalls.com

Thanks,
Todd


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## barnesrickw

I have an old 1860ish shotgun that is treated with Ferric Chloride.  Still looks beautiful on the Damascus barrels.


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## Swifty

I originally thought that I might do an article on this, but thought that there might not be enough text to pad it out, so just decided to post it here.

This is just an example of how I do my blackening using chemicals from the Blackfast Company.

I just grabbed 2 pieces that were handy, a silver steel home made cutter, and a mild steel piece. I buffed the silver steel up a bit and put the mild steel piece in the lathe and used some emery to clean it up.




First step was to soak the parts in some degreaser for 10 min.




Then after a rinse in fresh water, 45 - 60 seconds in some conditioner.




Another fresh water rinse, and then into the blackening solution for about 1 min.




Then out again and give it a rinse in fresh water.




Then give it a soak for about 30 min. in the soluable oil solution.





Finished parts, my solutions may need topping up a bit with concentrate for a slightly darker finish.




Paul.


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## gus

Swifty said:


> I originally thought that I might do an article on this, but thought that there might not be enough text to pad it out, so just decided to post it here.
> 
> This is just an example of how I do my blackening using chemicals from the Blackfast Company.
> 
> I just grabbed 2 pieces that were handy, a silver steel home made cutter, and a mild steel piece. I buffed the silver steel up a bit and put the mild steel piece in the lathe and used some emery to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First step was to soak the parts in some degreaser for 10 min.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then after a rinse in fresh water, 45 - 60 seconds in some conditioner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another fresh water rinse, and then into the blackening solution for about 1 min.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then out again and give it a rinse in fresh water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then give it a soak for about 30 min. in the soluable oil solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished parts, my solutions may need topping up a bit with concentrate for a slightly darker finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paul.



Hi Paul,

Now in South Thailand,after fishing and now enjoying the local food.

Please advise where could I get some Blackfast.


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## Herbiev

hi Gus. Gmet International in Singapore is a distributor of Blackfast. 
contact: George Png
email: [email protected]


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## Swifty

Hi Gus, thanks for that Herbie. Im just catching up on all the posts after being away for a week on a brief holiday.

Paul.


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## gus

Swifty said:


> Hi Gus, thanks for that Herbie. Im just catching up on all the posts after being away for a week on a brief holiday.
> 
> Paul.




Came back 25th March with a mild flu but made it worst going out fishing.
Recovering now but wee bitty lethargic.Will resume work in a day or two.
The Thai Mangos may have done it on Gus. Did have a couple more. The ''Howie'' next to my NB is looking at me & begging me to add on more parts to her O/H.  Will recover completely for this weekend fishing.Take care.


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## Swifty

Gus, you could also see if there is a Caswell supplier in Singapore, they have similar stuff.

Paul.


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## gus

Swifty said:


> Gus, you could also see if there is a Caswell supplier in Singapore, they have similar stuff.
> 
> Paul.




Thanks for Caswell info.Planning to DIY another QCTP and this time no rush. Blackening is required to counter humid conditons in the three open sided machineshop. Now about to move on to m/shop.Flu 99% gone. Will take it easy.


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## bazmak

Take it easy Gus you happy fisherman you


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## Swifty

Gus, glad that your feeling better, you must be keen to start making chips again. My V4 is coming along nicely, no rush, but it's definately not for the beginner or feint hearted. I'm machining the rocker supports at the moment, lucky that I had a spare, as I was machining the relief in the sides and put one in against the stop backwards. Wish I had a CNC mill, it would be so easy.

Paul.


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## gus

Swifty said:


> Gus, glad that your feeling better, you must be keen to start making chips again. My V4 is coming along nicely, no rush, but it's definately not for the beginner or feint hearted. I'm machining the rocker supports at the moment, lucky that I had a spare, as I was machining the relief in the sides and put one in against the stop backwards. Wish I had a CNC mill, it would be so easy.
> 
> Paul.



But then with CNC Machine Centre, its no longer hand made by Paul the MasterCraftsman. Turned 8   3mm pins for rocker arms and trying very hard to enjoy it. I have 12 pins to turn. There are no Oil Holes in the rocker arms. Will drill them just to oil pins. Fishing not too bad today.The raw beginners will have a very tough time with V-4 & V-2. Too much detail and unforgiving dimensional requirements to meet. At least Jerry Howell's drawings are quite clear cut and time tested. The carbs will be fun.

2 Javelins and 3 Snappers. Water not best. Having high hopes for tomorrow.

Happy Easter.(Easter Eggs still fashionable ??)


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