# Simple Single-Cylinder Piston Valve & Boiler



## Groewrs (Dec 5, 2008)

G'day All,

There seemed to be a bit of interest in my little engine and boiler, so I thought it'd be worthwhile starting a new thread. I got the engine design from the Sept-Oct 1995 issue of "Australian Model Engineering" magazine. This magazine is well worth the read, btw. I've been subscribing since about then. Lots of good stuff 







Here is the setup. I'd like to be able to say that I made the boiler, but I can't! It was purchased from Model Components, a small operation based in Redcliffe, QLD. Lots of good stuff on his website: http://www.modelcomponents.com.au

The boiler is a 4" Centre Flue design, fired on butane gas canisters. You can see the canister in one of the photos. It gets up steam in a bit over 5 minutes with the safety valve blowing around 35psi. I've yet to run it longer than about 15 minutes. Running the little engine, I can turn off the gas and I have steam for about another ten minutes of running 






Another view of the engine. Yes, I need to learn how to solder! After seeing all the beautiful engines on here, one of the jobs on my (ever increasing) list is to try to polish it up a bit. The Engine itself is mostly out of Brass, except for the piston and valve which are bronze, and the steel eccentric and silver steel shaft. It has a bore of 12mm with the stroke a bit less...I forget! The block started as a chunk of round about 1 3/4" dia. Lots of work with the hacksaw and then the four-jaw got that sorted! The second attempt was a much better job than the first 






This is the distribution manifold I made to allow for future expansion... Converts the single 5/16x32 ME thread off the main valve into two 5/16x32 ME and one 1/4x40 ME. It'll be a simple case of adding additional valves into these threads to run the other engines as they become operational. The Valves are another product from Model Components (I've tried making them over the years, but they always seem to let more steam through when they're shut than when they are open ;D)











Another couple of pics of the setup. It is all setup up on a temporary bit of chipboard at the moment... Simple, but it works (like me, really ;D)






I tried the flash on this one... Seemed to work ok.





Of course I had to include a Video! I think the pressure was a bit too much, combined with the valving being slightly out of whack. It wasn't running very well, but I've tuned it since then.






Finally, here is a pic of the Lathe. It is a Russian "Stankoimport" Universal - 3 Bench Machine Tool. Dad purchased it new back in the early '90's, and I've been using it since about 1995. It's a great little machine, and includes nearly every accessory you could ever think of! The vertical slide comes in useful sometimes  If there is anything that exceeds it's capacity, Dad has a Taiwanese 9"x20". The best thing about the lathe is that I can lift it on my own... try THAT with some of your lathes!

Well, I hope that has answered some questions. Sing out if there are any questions!

Gordon


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## SignalFailure (Dec 9, 2008)

Hi Gordon

I'd reduce the length of pipe between the manifold and the engine (or at least lag it) - the longer it is the more heat loss (= more condensation) and therefore less power. 

I know it's more time consuming but I think you'd get a better seal, stronger fitting and better appearance if you silver soldered some connectors into your cylinder block and used pipe unions to connect up the steam like you did at the manifold end. For the sizes you're working with, a DIY blow-torch and a couple of 'thermalite' blocks would make an adequate brazing hearth for silver soldering - that's what I use and IMHO it's a million times easier and tidier than soft solder.

Just suggestions!

Cheers

Paul


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## Groewrs (Dec 10, 2008)

G'day Paul,

Cheers for the heads-up. I have plans (well down the list at the moment) to disassemble the engine and give it a nice polish up. It seems like that would be a good time to fit some unions and carry out other small fixes on it.

Any ideas on what would be the best material to use for the lagging?

Thanks once again for the feedback!

Gordon


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## SignalFailure (Dec 10, 2008)

Hi Gordon

At one time it would be asbestos string. I think you can get a simlar 'safe' item today... I'm sure Tel (http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?action=profile;u=525) can 'tell' us


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## tel (Dec 10, 2008)

Ordinary cotton twine - the white stuff you use to tie a chook's legs together before poppin' it in the oven - is fine, and you can get it at any supermarket.


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## Groewrs (Dec 10, 2008)

Thanks Paul, Thanks Tel :bow:


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## Kermit (Dec 12, 2008)

Groewrs  said:
			
		

> G'day Paul,
> 
> Cheers for the heads-up. I have plans (well down the list at the moment) to disassemble the engine and give it a nice polish up. It seems like that would be a good time to fit some unions and carry out other small fixes on it.
> 
> ...



Have a look at Mcmaster  for sheet material see *9583T12* or *87945K1*

My personal choice would be these strips *87905K1* thru K6 for all the sizes. Very cheap as well for a purchased product.

The Oldest newbie,
Kermit


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