# Onward, ever onward



## tel (Nov 16, 2009)

OK, with the double diagonal stabled, awaiting paint and polish, it's time to move along. I have an idea festering in my brain cell, but not ready to commit to it yet, so as a 'filler' I've started on Mogens' side beam engine, albeit at 1.5 scale and with modifications.

Base and columns





Column top





Bottom section of main bearings





Partly done mains, with a bit of crankshaft material shoved through





A closer look at the mains


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## tel (Nov 16, 2009)

Which brings us up to this afternoon, when I started on the flywheel - my usual 3 piece construction





And hung it in the mains for a look-see!


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## lazylathe (Nov 16, 2009)

Wish i had time for "filler" projects like this!!

Starting to look very good Tel!
Love the flywheel!


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 16, 2009)

That looks great Tel. How did you make the columns?


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## hitandmissman (Nov 16, 2009)

That looks like a great start. I will be following along as I do on a lot of others and add this to my list of things to do. Thanks for posting it.


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## 4156df (Nov 16, 2009)

> I started on the flywheel - my usual 3 piece construction



Tel,
Have you told us about this? I've been looking through your posts hoping to find something, but I must be missing it. Can you show a link, or tell me which project you talked about it on?
Regards,
Dennis

P.S. Great start on the "filler" project. Looking forward to seeing more.


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## tel (Nov 16, 2009)

I did post the below on the Double Diagonal thread, but didn't really go into the making of it. Might be worth doing a short thread on the matter.

Zee, I just bolted two short pieces of hex to the ends for indexing purposes, grabbed 'em, in turn, in the vise, and ran along 'em with a ball nosed end mill.


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## 4156df (Nov 16, 2009)

Tel,
I for one, wouldn't mind seeing a short thread on your flywheel. Now that I see the picture I can see I already made a couple of incorrect assumptions on your method. Flywheels and different ways of making them are always of interest.
Dennis


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## tel (Nov 17, 2009)

We had company today, so no chance to do much on the engine, other than start on the clean up of the flywheel


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## tel (Nov 18, 2009)

Not a lot of progress today either. but I did get a pair of oil cups made and fitted to the mains


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## Artie (Nov 18, 2009)

Saw the thread, duly noted and filed (uhm... might need prompting as to exactly WHERE it is filed ... but...) Tah mate... well received as need similar soon...

R


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## tel (Nov 19, 2009)

Today's progress pic


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## JimN (Nov 20, 2009)

Looks good Tel, really nice job on the flywheel.


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## CrewCab (Nov 20, 2009)

You really do make it look easy Tel  ;D 

Top class feller 8)

CC


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## ttrikalin (Nov 20, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Not a lot of progress today either. but I did get a pair of oil cups made and fitted to the mains



So that is what the freaking oil cups do! And I was scratching my head scratch.gif over your previous post :hDe: ...


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## tel (Nov 22, 2009)

The beams roughed out





.. and hung on the engine for a look.


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## Artie (Nov 22, 2009)

Looking good bloke... but.... the bush fire isnt a problem for you is it?


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## tel (Nov 22, 2009)

No fire problem yet, but they are bad to the West, North and East of us. Closed big fire is probably 50 km away, tho' we've had some little ones locally


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## Artie (Nov 22, 2009)

;D Good luck mate.... loks like its a bad year already.....


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## JimN (Nov 23, 2009)

Looks really good Tel. After I finish the project I am working on would love to build one of these. Just have to change it all to imp measurements. To old to change to metric now.

JimN


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## Deanofid (Nov 24, 2009)

Looking good, Tel. Starting to get an idea of how things are going to work, now!

Dean


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## tel (Nov 24, 2009)

Thanks blokes. 

Yes Jim, I'm more or less working in imperial myself, as well as the x1.5 size and reworking some parts as I go along.

I seem to be spending a disproportionate amount of time on these beams, but as they are such prominent features I want to get 'em pretty right.





So the paint in the recesses looks like taking forever to dry, so I'm held up. Make a start on the crank arms. I wanted to do these in cast iron, but no suitable bar about, so ....


.. a slice of 3" bar and some creative bandsawing,





.... gives us a nice little block to make the bits out of





This is a turning fixture, I have accumulated several of these over the years, it will come into play shortly.


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## Artie (Nov 24, 2009)

It isnt always about 'the most convenient' way, its about making do with whats available, this is exactly what got me into casting in the first place (was that really 1983? wow).

Looking good bloke, you certainly dont muck around..... I do enjoy your no bullsxxx posts. After the success of your twin I would think you could have been forgiven for takling a rest and basking some.... but nooooo.... Onward, ever onward....

Artie 8)


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## JimN (Nov 25, 2009)

Arms look good.


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## tel (Nov 25, 2009)

OK, with the block still in one piece the various holes are dealt with





And then sawn from the 'parent'. The top hat bush in the foreground is an adaptor to fit the blocks to the turning fixture - it kills two, nay three, birds with one stone - takes up the difference between the 4mm screw in the fitting and the 5/16" hole in the block, holds the block to the fixture and serves as a guide for the turning.





A block is mounted on the fixture





and half the thickness turned away





One down, one to go





Now out with the trusty file - 





We still have the crank pin ends to deal with, which will involve another bush and more filing - perhaps tomorrow.


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## 4156df (Nov 25, 2009)

Tel,
A few pictures definitely are worth thousands of words. Kudos for seeing those two parts in that hunk of metal and then getting them out.
Dennis


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## Deanofid (Nov 25, 2009)

That's a dandy little fixture you made for turning the bosses on those pieces, Tel. 
Thanks for the pics!

Dean


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## tel (Nov 26, 2009)

The second bush, actually just a filing button with a c/s 4BA clearing hole....





..is screwed into place on one of the embryo arms ...





.... and the profile filed to shape.





Only had time to do one this morning.


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## tel (Nov 29, 2009)

Pretty much a lost weekend as far as progress goes. Got the crank arms finished





.. and put on a couple of rough, temporary rods to check clearances etc. At thi stage we have a rather elaborate finger engine ;D





Made a start on the real rods


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## Twmaster (Nov 29, 2009)

Nice work. Great tips Tel. Thanks!


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## JRNYMAN2LMAYKER (Nov 29, 2009)

tel, she is lookin real good!!! I have the HSM plans for this engine and have thought about going 2X size with it. It has interesting mechanical movement and should be an eye grabber.

Greg


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## tel (Nov 29, 2009)

Thanks blokes. x2 would make for a pretty impressive engine with scope for lots of extra detail Greg - go for it.


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## tel (Dec 3, 2009)

A modest start on the cylinder


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## ariz (Dec 3, 2009)

it's coming out pretty well, a very beautiful engine!

Tel you're a master with the files, those rounded edge are perfect :bow:


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## Cedge (Dec 3, 2009)

Looking good, Tel. You do have a knack for making it all appear so easy....(grin). 

Steve


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## SignalFailure (Dec 4, 2009)

:bow: :bow:

The master at work....can't beat it!

(and that turning fixture is a bloody great tip!)


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## Artie (Dec 4, 2009)

Looks good mate. It seems that you are destined to be inconvenienced this year. Your second bout of bushfires. How close is this lot? Not right on your doorstep I hope..... :-[


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## steamer (Dec 4, 2009)

Nice Tel!.....glad you demonstrated the filing buttons for everyone!

Dave


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## tel (Dec 5, 2009)

Artie  said:
			
		

> Looks good mate. It seems that you are destined to be inconvenienced this year. Your second bout of bushfires. How close is this lot? Not right on your doorstep I hope..... :-[



The Rockley Mount fire is about 3km away, as the crow flies - been a bit of a worry all night, but the wind is somewhat in our favour and it's burning more across us than towards. Last (oral) report is that they think they have it under control, but the roads are still closed and large policemen are enforcing the closures. To top it off, the fire bought down the power lines last night, so we were without electrickerty until the early hours of the am.


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## Artie (Dec 5, 2009)

Best wishes bloke. Aus hasnt been the nicest place for bushfires of late.....


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## tel (Dec 5, 2009)

Thankee, we are as ready as we can be if it comes this way. Whatever will be, will be, as Doris Day once said. Meanwhile, there's an engine to build.

Flanges are needed for the cylinder, so a couple of disks were cut from 3mm brass and set up on the 3" faceplate for boring




..boring ....




... bored.




The cylinder components thus far




A dry run...




... on the engine




The dreaded port blocks are next.


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## 4156df (Dec 5, 2009)

Tel,
Looking good. I really like your cylinder style. Thanks for posting.
Dennis


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## hitandmissman (Dec 5, 2009)

Great build. I also like the way you are doing the cylinder. Very nice.


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## arnoldb (Dec 5, 2009)

Very nice Tel!

I like that small face plate for the Myford as well, looks really handy.

Regards, Arnold


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## tel (Dec 5, 2009)

Thanks blokes.

Yes Arnold, it is very handy indeed. I made it from an offcut of 3" CI bar a few years back, and it's just the duck's guts for doing small stuff. Don't know about others, but I find having the 9" faceplate flogging around in your face while working on little items quite intimidating.


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## arnoldb (Dec 5, 2009)

Thanks Tel - and darn... now I have another tuit : !

Kind Regards, Arnold


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## Deanofid (Dec 5, 2009)

Looking good, Tel!
I'm never brave enough to paint any of my parts until I have the whole thing done.
Afraid I might have to machine the paint away due to some prior goof!

Keep on.

Dean


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## tel (Dec 6, 2009)

;D

not a huge amount of time on it today, but I did get the port block machined to size, the port face made flat and the ports cut. Still have to cut the curved seat where it butts up to the cylinder body. Hopefully I'll get set up to do that tonight.

Here's another dry fit - you can start to see a cylinder emerging now.


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## ozzie46 (Dec 6, 2009)

Great stuff Tel. Now all those plans I have that show cast cyls. seem doable.

 Thanks 

 Ron


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## tel (Dec 6, 2009)

Yeah Ron, just about anything is doable if you are prepared to put the time in.

The cylinder is almost ready to be silver soldered.

First I set the boring head with the aid of a sacrificial bit of aluminium and a gauge piece, then set up the port block in the vise and cut the seat.





Yet another dry fit. I just have to put a couple of 1/16" brass pins in to hold things together for the silver soldering operation now. Sadly, it might be the weekend before I get back to it tho'.


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## ksouers (Dec 6, 2009)

This is great stuff, Tel.

I've been wondering how to build of a cylinder. I've worked out the operations in my head, but it's interesting to watch someone actually do it.

Thanks for sharing your technique.


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## tel (Dec 7, 2009)

Thanks Kev, once you've done one it's easy enough. A bit time consuming tho'.

Got a bit of unexpected time this afternoon, so the cylinder has been pinned and silver soldered. Clean up and final machining next.


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## thayer (Dec 7, 2009)

Hi Tel,

Thanks for all the inspiration. You've got a wonderful project going here.

A couple quick questions from a rank newbie. How much extra do you leave on the cylinder bore for the final cleanup? I'm just trying to get a sense on how much you expect the metal might move as you solder it.

Also, Is there any merit in milling the steam ports in the block before you solder? It seems it might be easier to at least rough it in before you have the entire assembly to hold.

Thayer


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## tel (Dec 7, 2009)

Opion is divided on the matter of how much to leave in the bore. Personally I take it right out to size and just clean up with a brake cylinder hone after the soldering - I've never had a bore distort, the secret is in the even heating of the entire workpiece - usually I use the outer flame of an oxy/acet cutting torch for this, just keep the torch well back.

This is the first time I've cut the ports before soldering the assembly and I believe it is the better way. The exhaust port was cut right through and I _think_ that this helped the penetration of the solder under the block.

There is really only the ends left to machine - I'll mount the cylinder on a wring fit mandrel and turn those down to true 'em up. Then it's only hone the bore and clean up.


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## thayer (Dec 7, 2009)

Thanks Tel,

This sounds like a case of make an extra part or two and see what works well for me. I've just started to cut metal with any precision, and recently finished my first project, one of Elmer's simpler engines.

It helps to know what works for you and I will see if I can get close to your skills someday.

Sincerely,

Thayer


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## tel (Dec 8, 2009)




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## thayer (Dec 8, 2009)

Tel,

That really looks very nice!

Thayer


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## tel (Dec 8, 2009)

Thanks Thayer, I'm pleased enough with it. The photo's a bit murky tho'. I'll try to get a better one later.


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## thayer (Dec 8, 2009)

Tel,

I understand you faced the ends, but I'm new enough that I have no idea how you would have cleaned the rest of that up.

Some sort of etching solution? buffing wheel? bead blasting? files? burying it out back behind the shed for a week? tossing it in Sydney Harbour? A ride a rock tumbler with large gravel? 

Thayer


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## tel (Dec 8, 2009)

Mostly just persistence with odd bits of wet n dry paper, then a run over with the air eraser to get the more stubborn marks off, then a final go with flogged out w&d. I masked the port face and ends with duct tape before doing all that, however.


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## thayer (Dec 8, 2009)

Just as I feared. No magic bullet!

Thayer


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## tel (Dec 8, 2009)

Nope, no magic bullet, just time and effort.

Now, logically, I should have drilled the steam passages next, but I felt like a change of pace, so instead made the top cover.

First a disk is roughed out and a 1/2 spigot is silver soldered in





Grabbed in the 3 jaw and the underside turned, hole for piston rod drilled and reamed. I don't know what this bit of 'brass' is, but it's tough and stringy, and hard to get a finish.





Now we hunt thru our collection of previously saved split chucks. Almost certainly you will find that you have nothing anywhere near what's needed, so you will have to make a new one. I had to make a new one




Mount the partly machined cover in it,






and turn, open the spigot out tapping size for a suitable depth, tap, and mark out the bolt holes





Remove from lathe, drill the bolt holes, and you should have something that looks a bit like this.


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## tel (Dec 12, 2009)

Can't upload a pic on either Photobucket or Webshots

Not a lot of progress made in the last couple of days, I have drilled and tapped the cylinder for the top and bottom covers and drilled the steam passages.

Made a start on the steam chest today - my usual way of using two pieces of angle, silver soldered together. I've mentioned this elsewhere.


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## tel (Dec 12, 2009)

Ah! Finally!


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## 4156df (Dec 12, 2009)

Tel,
That's a slick way of doing the steam box. Sure hope I can remember for it the next time I do one. ;D
Dennis


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 12, 2009)

Damn, Tel--You're my hero!!!


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## tel (Dec 12, 2009)

;D Thanks blokes. I have a (jealously guarded) piece of brass angle, 2" x 2" x 1/4" that I use for steam chests and nothing else. As the piece is (now) about 800mm long, and as a chest uses about 30mm it should last for a while yet, but if and when it runs out I'll have to find another method.


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## Artie (Dec 12, 2009)

You can cast cant you Tel? Or if you dont have the facilities do you know someone (say within 400kms) who would do a few for you? : Im only thinking about when you run short of angle....


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## tel (Dec 13, 2009)

;D Thanks Artie, yes, I can cast, but I'd need to get aholt of a decent crucible - don't think my 'ome made steel ones would stand up to bronze or brass for long.

A bit further along with the steam chest - here it is with the various orifi drilled and the inlet and gland hopes opened out and tapped





And here it is affixed to the cylinder with a miscellany of screws, screws, I hasten to add, that _will not_ feature on the finished engine!


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## tel (Dec 16, 2009)

Things have slowly crept forward a bit over the last few days, mostly mundane stuff like drilling and tapping. The steam chest cover is made.

When it came to the hanger brackets for the bell crank shaft I was at a bit of a loss, the change to a slide valve meant that there was the 'ole for the steam inlet right where I wanted to bolt the bracket on the l/h side. Eventually overcame the problem by making the l/h bracket with a bulge at the bottom end and using the steam inlet fitting as an overgrown bolt.

The shape of these brackets has, of course, been changed to something a little more elegant, and they have been made higher, to give me some more clearance around the valve links etc.





... so things are getting a bit crowded in there now!


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## Maryak (Dec 16, 2009)

tel,

Very elegant :bow: - gotta move my shop closer all this great work is giving me withdrawal symptoms. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Dec 16, 2009)

Thanks Bob, I know wot you mean tho' - some days down the 12 steps of the spiral stairs to mine seems too far away.


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## tel (Dec 17, 2009)

A closer look at the bell crank supports - the hex bit will be drilled and tapped at 'X' to take the steam pipe.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 17, 2009)

That's going to be a good looking engine Tel.


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## cfellows (Dec 17, 2009)

This is coming along real nice, Tel. I like your use of soldering. It's a nice alternative to hogging out a piece from a much larger piece of metal. I don't mind the work, just hate wasting the larger pieces of metal!

Chuck


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## JimN (Dec 18, 2009)

Very nice idea on the steam inlet pipe, rest of the engine is looking great.

JimN


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## tel (Dec 19, 2009)

Thanks blokes. Yeah, I'm with you there Chuck, I hate to see good metal turned into chips when it can be avoided.

Yes Jim, the steam pipe worked out pretty well.




I did something very similar with the exhaust.





From this point I can pretty much do whatever I like with the pipes - plenty of room out this end.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 19, 2009)

Can't wait to see more. I did a quick search on "Mogen's Side Beam" but didn't see anything. I'm curious about the 'bell crank supports'. (I don't even know what a bell crank is.)


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## tel (Dec 19, 2009)

Wikipedia give a pretty reasonable description here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bellcrank

In essence, the valve drive has to be turned through 90° and the bell crank is employed to achieve that. Me supports are higher than those in the original plans, and curved to give a nicer appearance that the rather blocky originals.

A couple of variants of this engine have turned up here, and Mogens is a member. You can access his plans *here.*


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 19, 2009)

Ah! Thanks for that tel.
Nice link!
I understand the bell crank now. There was something tickling my mind about it...I remember now...it was from my early early days of playing with control-line aircraft.


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## tel (Dec 19, 2009)

Bell cranks are everywhere matey, we just tend not to think of them as such. I'd hate to have to count how many you'd find on the average ottermobile.


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## dsquire (Dec 19, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Thanks Bob, I know wot you mean tho' - some days down the 12 steps of the spiral stairs to mine seems too far away.



Well Tel, in the same amount of space as the spiral staircase you could build a nice little elevator. Sure would help with the stairs problem and you wouldn't be the first to do it. Back in the '50s the gentelman that owned the local garage build an elevator so that his dad could get to the living quarters above the garage. Last that I had heard, the old gentelman had passed on but the elevator was still there and working. 

Cheers 

Don


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## tel (Dec 19, 2009)

;D Not quite the same ambiance tho', is there Don? I have been seriously considering doing one for 'inside' access when time and funds permit - BUT I gotta winkle a bit of floor space from the manager first.

Added a few more bits this morning - pretty much to the stage where there's only the valve gear to go.


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## tel (Dec 20, 2009)

With Zee confessing ignorance of bell cranks, and as I am up to making one, I feel a mini tutorial coming on .... we'll call it ....

*Making an Offset Bell Crank*

Remember this bit of stuff? It was left over from making the crank arms - it hasn't finished being cranky yet.




the basic crank is marked out on it





Then I milled a bit of the round 'side' to facilitate
 holding in the vise, and milled the back of the first arm.





Then drill the holes


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 20, 2009)

and? and?
Why do I feel there's more to this story?


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## tel (Dec 20, 2009)

Then it was roughed out on the bandsaw and cleaned up a bit on the mill




.. and transferred to the trusty turning fixture





and the boss turned until the remainder way 2 arms thick





Then each arm was grabbed in turn it the bench vise and half the thickness filed off the appropriate side.


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## tel (Dec 20, 2009)

Still a little cosmetic work required, but there it is - mucho simple.


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## tel (Dec 21, 2009)

... and the cosmetic work is coming along.





I didn't say it was a *big* bell crank!


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## JimM (Dec 21, 2009)

Time for a real newbie question !

When you turn the boss down how do you attack the piece. Do you come in from the side as in a normal turning operation or from the end like in a facing cut (sure there's proper terminology that should be used here radially/axially ??)

Cheers

Jim


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## tel (Dec 21, 2009)

Depends on the circumstances a bit Jim, but normally I come at it with a facing cut. at least until I have enough 'boss' established to work with.


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## Artie (Dec 21, 2009)

and..... nice drop....


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## tel (Dec 21, 2009)

Oh yes, second only to the :bow: Guinness :bow:


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## tel (Jan 2, 2010)

Just a quick update, to drag this thread back to page one. Haven't had a lot of time over the Festive Season, but I'm now down to the fiddly little bits and not too many of those to go. Made the slide valve today, should only have the nut, spindle and spindle gland to go. Running by next weekend? I'd like to think so.


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## tel (Jan 8, 2010)

You've watched the build, now

See The Movie!

http://entertainment.webshots.com/video/3064246390105506259UBWYFx?vhost=entertainment


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## ksouers (Jan 8, 2010)

Congratulations, Tel. Way to go!

 th_wav

Lots of interesting motions there to entertain the eye!


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## cfellows (Jan 8, 2010)

Another nice build there, Tel. You sure seem to have a way with metal! 

Chuck


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## tel (Jan 9, 2010)

Thanks blokes, it's certainly interesting to watch run - seems to be bits going in all directions.


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## Maryak (Jan 9, 2010)

Great build tel. :bow: :bow:

More movements than a swiss watch. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


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## Seanol (Jan 9, 2010)

Tel,
That is a mesmerizing engine and an excellent build! 

Thanks for the video,

Sean


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## GailInNM (Jan 9, 2010)

Very Nice Tel. Thm: Thm:
Gail in NM


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## rake60 (Jan 9, 2010)

Great works there Tel! :bow:

Rick


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## arnoldb (Jan 9, 2010)

Lovely Job Tel  :bow: :bow: - and very interesting to watch it run ;D
Kind regards, Arnold


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## Artie (Jan 9, 2010)

beautiful mate, just bloody beautiful.... :bow:


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## steamer (Jan 9, 2010)

Beautiful Tel!  I really like her!

They built some side wheeler ships that way

Dave


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 9, 2010)

Very nice work Tel.----Brian


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## Captain Jerry (Jan 9, 2010)

Tel

Nice work. Neat engine. Great thread. Excellent entertainment. 

I don't know when but when I get around to building a slide valve engine, the cylinder will be done with your method.

Best wishes
Jerry


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## joe d (Jan 9, 2010)

Tel

Onya, Mate! You seem to have the knack for interesting looking engines, I've much enjoyed following along.

Joe


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## vlmarshall (Jan 9, 2010)

Very interesting beam engine! :bow: Excellent work.


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 9, 2010)

That's a good looking engine Tel. An interesting build.
I've love to see a few still pictures too!


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