# Does anyone happen to know the model number?



## multihobbyguy (May 18, 2010)

Just wondering if anyone happens to know what the model number is or maybe what size blade it needs. The plate has been removed from the back to identify the model number. I am trying to put this thing back to work. ;D


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## rake60 (May 18, 2010)

I can't help with identifying the model, but it certainly appears to be an older version
of a 4 X 6 band saw. Do the lands on the pulleys measure to about 1/2 inch ?

If they do wrap a string around them and mark it where the ends meet.
See how close that measurement is to 64-1/2 inches.

Rick


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## doc1955 (May 18, 2010)

Thats a twin to mine what all is wrong with it?
When I get back out to the shop I can look to see if there are any model tag or numbers on it.
I recently had to mak a new bevel gear for it. I pushed it a little hard and broke the original gear.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6363.msg67867#msg67867



PS
I ran out and looked didn't see any numbers at model. I welded my own blades I measured they are 59 inches in length 1/2 stock. I ended up with a spool of blade stock so thats why I weld my own up.
Sorry I couldn't help you more If I find a model number I'll post it I thought I had the original paper work but don't have time to look for it right now.


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## multihobbyguy (May 18, 2010)

Rick, I will try to string trick tomorrow. Doc1955, I am not sure if anything is wrong with it yet. I am going to get some metal from a Tractor Supply tomorrow or the next day and make a rolling frame for it some time soon. Then I will be able to hang the motor and turn it on. Everything seems to be pretty tight and nothing seems terribly wore. Thank you in advanced for looking for the model number, mine has a spot on the back where a tag once hung. Thanks again, Chris.


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## PaulG (May 19, 2010)

Hi Chris, Maybe this will help

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/calculators/belt_length.htm

Paul


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## d-m (May 22, 2010)

I can get my hands on the manual and parts guide if you need, I had the same saw with book, when a larger saw came my way I gave the craftsmen to a buddy 
Dave


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## multihobbyguy (May 22, 2010)

Thanks for the offer, I am just looking for the model number currently, but I may take you up on the manual and parts guide in the future.


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## d-m (May 22, 2010)

Ok the one I gave Jeff has a model # of 10122901 but looking at your pic It looks like the clamp screw is under the bed his is on top so may not be the same model here is the link to that #
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...1&documentId=P0405099&pop=flush&searchCount=1


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## doc1955 (May 22, 2010)

Sorry I didn't get to this right away I spaced it out and forgot (that oldtimers you know) :big:











Hope this helps.
PS: Sears parts page


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## multihobbyguy (May 22, 2010)

Thank you guys so much this is was exactly what I was looking for. :bow:


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## multihobbyguy (May 25, 2010)

How important is the little shock absorber? Mine does not have the complete piece and I am wondering if I need to figure out something or just let gravity take over. They are a little pricey on the sears parts web site.


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## doc1955 (May 25, 2010)

That was the adjustable feed if you let gravity take over I suspect it will be to much force at times.
I was pushing mine to hard with it turned wide open on feed and wiped out the beveled gear and the sales person I talked to said they no longer had them so I ended up making my own replacement. So unless you feel up to making a replacement you may want to consider it.


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## multihobbyguy (May 25, 2010)

That is too bad, The feed cylinder is $145 and that is more than I want to spend on it at this time, I will have to put it into a corner and keep a eye out for a substitute. 

Edit: I think I will get a small bottle jack and incorporate that into the stand I have to build. I can still use the pivot point on the saw. Then I can slow down or speed up the flow with the a twist of the valve.


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## doc1955 (May 26, 2010)

It looks as though you have the main pieces you could fab the replacements.


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## d-m (May 29, 2010)

multihobbyguy 
I rebuilt the one I had straight forward O rings and oil. I think you would be time and money ahead to fab the parts and keep the original feed cylinder.
Dave


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## idahoan (May 29, 2010)

I built a new feed cylinder for my Roll-in band saw; the original one leaked oil and was not repairable. Roll-in wanted over $600.00 for a replacement that would still have been an inferior part. By making the new one I was also able to relocate the control valve to better location. The original valve was part of the cylinder and operated backwords. I used DOM tubing for the tube and case hardend chrome shafting for the rod. I'm really pleased with the way it turned out.

Dave


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## multihobbyguy (May 29, 2010)

I have tried to see what parts I was missing from the exploded view, but it is not a very clear picture. I guess I am not real sure how it works. If i can figure out what I am missing and what I would need to fabricate I would try to fix it up to work again. If you took any pictures when you rebuilt yours d-m I would really like to see what I am missing. Thanks for the replies everyone, Chris.


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## doc1955 (May 29, 2010)

I had mine apart awhile back I could take mine apart again if I get some time and get some pictures there isn't a whole lot to them.


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## d-m (May 30, 2010)

Sorry Chris no pic's I think you should hit up doc1955 with his offer

Dave


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## multihobbyguy (May 30, 2010)

Thank you for the offer doc1955. If you ever get the extra time to snap a couple of pictures I would appreciate it, Thanks Chris.


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## doc1955 (May 30, 2010)

Here are a few shots of the internal parts.


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## multihobbyguy (May 30, 2010)

Thank you for the pictures doc1955. I will have to do some studying of the pictures to figure out what I am missing. From the pictures it looks like quite a bit is missing from mine, but at least I will have a much better idea now when I am looking at the expanded parts view from Sears. Thanks again, Chris.


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## d-m (May 30, 2010)

Just some food for thought at work we have a Ellis saw with a hydraulic control valve ellis offers them I they dint offer the price on there web site but I bet you could call there are several different ones you may get lucky and find one with a close stroke and be able to make it work.Click on band saw and at the bottom of the page there is a parts brake down. http://www.ellissaw.com/Band-Saws/2/mitre-band-saw-comparison.
Dave


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## RICHARDDV (May 31, 2010)

Does your band saw have any ball or roller bearings in it - if not then the model number is probably 101-02292 made by atlas in 1959 /60 with a 60 inch blade and base size of 23x6 inches. got the information out of old sears tool catalog on the www.owwm .com web site for old manuals and publications --richard


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## daleshobbie (Jul 13, 2010)

I just bought one of these bad boys off Craigslist. I'm a novice with these horizontal metal cutting bandsaws & have a few questions:

Does anyone know what tension should be used when replacing blade? Or how much play (side-to-side movement) should be in blade? Would this be on the blade guide side or the other? How tight or how loose should the blade be in the guides?

Any other helpful tips/suggestions much appreciated. A manual would really be appreciated!

You can email directly to: [email protected]


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## rklopp (Jul 13, 2010)

I have the same saw. Mine uses 1/2" x 60" x 0.025" blades with 14 tpi. I paid $69 for it about 20 years ago from a company surplus sale. I bought new tires and plastic drive gear from Sears shortly thereafter. I never installed the gear, not sure I could find it at this point. I have a love-hate relationship with the saw. I hate when the blade jumps off the wheels. That happens mainly with 6061-T6 aluminum due to metal pickup on the blade. A stick of cutting wax has helped solve that problem. One of these days I'll junk it and get a Horrible Freight or similar 4x6. Back in the good ol' days, the US could make cheezy machines as well as the Asians can now.

I run the blade about as tight as I can get it. The spring under the adjustment knob is fully compressed. I make sure I lightly snug the non-driven wheel clamping nut while tensioning the blade, then tighten it fully. This prevents tilt of the wheel, which could cause the blade to run off. I run the guide rollers in contact with the blade, with practically no clearance. Occasionally a pile of swarf jams between the blade and a roller, which makes the blade jump off. I don't think I could make a straight cut without the rollers contacting the blade. As it is, the cuts are reasonably straight, all things considered.

I've gotten fireworks from the motor when swarf falls into it. It is well positioned to receive a swarf shower. 

My saw is on a decent set of legs with wheels. I think it was OEM, but I'm not positive.

The hydraulic downfeed snubber is about the nicest feature on the machine, but the regulating valve is rather all-or-nothing.


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