# A BEAM ENGINE



## firebird (Jul 20, 2010)

HI

You may have noticed that apart from the odd comment here and there I haven't posted much since the completion of my small steam engine. I have however been busy building a beam engine. This engine has been on the go for about 3 years or so but I didn't want to post anything of its progress until I knew it would run, I didn't want to make a complete fool of myself until I knew I was on the right track. To explain myself a little better we must go back a good few years to the point at which I started in this hobby. I read all the books I could find, subscribed to magazines and joined this forum. It was then that the idea of this beam engine was born. So off I went. I soon realised that the necessary skills required to build such an engine had not as yet been mastered. The engine would of course need a boiler so I started on that as well. Same problem, not yet skilled enough. The beam engine went to the back of the bench while I concentrated on the boiler, one job at a time. With the help, guidance and support of the members of this forum the boiler was eventually completed. A full build log can be seen in the boiler section. Along the way new skills were learned and my confidence increased. Back to the beam engine but I'm afraid I didn't get very far. There was still much to learn. So I decided to go back to basics and build something simple, a little wobbler and simple boiler. It took quite a while to complete but was a great success and I was honoured to win project of the month with it. A full build log can be found in the A WORK IN PROGRESS SECTION under the title A SMALL STEAM ENGINE. Once again new skills were learned. Back to the beam engine but this time with the skills needed to progress. I must add at this point that I have had a fantastic amount of help over the years (privately) by a man I now consider to be a good friend. I have at times pestered him almost daily and been a bit of a nuisance I'm sure but he has always come through with the help and support and at times materials. That man is John Bogstandard. Many many thanks John Thm: Thm: Thm: Anyway I think I've rambled on enough for one night so without further ado here's a bit of video followed by a few photos. The engine is far from finished, it ran for the first time last night, and will progress from here. The last photo shows were the boiler will go. I won't say any more at the moment but see if you can spot the method behind my madness.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggwfHmmPfbE[/ame]































Cheers

Rich


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## m_kilde (Jul 20, 2010)

Hi Rich

Well ! I'm not sure about your skills, as far as I can tell, you have started to build an I.C. engine and ended up with a steam engine :

I must say it's a beauty of an engine, and a very uniqe design it is.

Thanks for sharing your project with us.


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## gbritnell (Jul 20, 2010)

In my sixties jargon, "that's really cool"! I always enjoy things made from found materials especially when they're automotive in nature.
gbritnell


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## Maryak (Jul 20, 2010)

Rich,

That's magnificent. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Cedge (Jul 20, 2010)

Man!!.... is tin Falcon ever gonna love this one, or what?....LOL. Nice example of giving one's imagination freedom to run with it. I certainly like it... A LOT!!

Steve


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## GordTopps (Jul 20, 2010)

WOW!!!!
Thats really great woohoo1

Many congratulations on a truly fantistic build :bow:

Regards
Gordy


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 20, 2010)

Gotta love the emagineering. 
Tin 



Mrs. Tin here - Couldn't resist adding my applause!! Beautiful engine! 
But have to add a comment none of the 'guys' likely would.
Loving the ambiance!! Clothespins on a rope showing through the window!
Interesting way of 'proving' your neat shop truly is 'at home'.  :big:


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## Blogwitch (Jul 20, 2010)

Congratulations Rich, and it is an honour for me to be of assistance to someone who has a dream, even though it has been a little long term.

A much better vid as well, the first one I saw just didn't do it justice.


John


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## fcheslop (Jul 20, 2010)

Absolutely fantastic,just brightened up a real crappy day thanks.
best wishes Frazer


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## mklotz (Jul 20, 2010)

Wow, very neat indeed. But with all those car parts, it needs an (air) horn.


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## bentprop (Jul 20, 2010)

Now put those parts back in the wife's car :big: :big: :big:
Great idea to use things you'd never give a second thought as useful engine parts.
I'm quite partial to"nodders",and this is one of the nicest I've seen.
Give that man a cigar!


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## Deanofid (Jul 20, 2010)

You know what Rich?

_It's Fabulous!_

You tell a great success story, too. Thanks for the thoughtful introduction for the engine,
along with the pics and vid!

Dean


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## larry1 (Jul 20, 2010)

Rich,  this is a really great, and everything that everyone else said. Thank you for sharing this build with us.  larry


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 20, 2010)

Fantastic Rich.

I was just thinking about you the other day. When I joined this forum, one of the first things I ran across was your water pump for pressurizing a boiler. I've wanted to build it ever since. The plans are in my project folder.

Very happy to get another shot of your outdoor view too! I've always liked your shop.


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## bearcar1 (Jul 20, 2010)

A splendid use of engine parts and a very whimsical rendering of a beam. In motion it has the trappings of a Dr. Seuss mechanical device. I mean that in a most respectful manner, it is delightful to watch. BRAVO!!

BC1
Jim


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## njl (Jul 21, 2010)

What a smashing idea. A great engine, that's very cool. I'll have to look at car scrap in a different light now.

Nick


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## firebird (Jul 22, 2010)

Hi

Thankyou gentlemen, I'm glad you like it. 

I have photographed this engine right from the start so I will post them as well as current work. It may take me a while to dig out the photos from 3 + years ago so bear with me. Its my birthday today so nothing will be done in the workshop. Julian is coming round tomorrow night so I suppose I shall have to drink beer with him as well woohoo1. The sound on the video isn't very good, the cameraman ( who shall remain nameless) had his finger over the microphone. I'll shoot another one at the weekend so you can hear better the sound it makes.

cheers

Rich


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## student123 (Jul 22, 2010)

Super looking engine Rich. Well done.
Still 2 hours left of your brithday , so I can say many happy returns.

Mike


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## ozzie46 (Jul 22, 2010)

Happy Birthday Rich. Nice outside the box engine


  Ron


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## arnoldb (Jul 23, 2010)

That's an excellent engine Rich :bow:
I'm really looking forward to the rest of your build log ;D - and seeing that beauty running on steam!
A belated Happy Birthday as well!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## firebird (Jul 23, 2010)

Hi

Thanks Mike, Ron, Arnold.

Here's a better bit of video

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGFnCLVtDNM[/ame]

Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Jul 23, 2010)

Hi

Well this is where it all started really. The cylinder is the first part that made me think that some of the stuff I was throwing in the scrap bin at work could be usable. Brake cylinders are either aluminium or cast iron. I decided to go with the aluminium, less likely to corrode, also I wanted to keep as many features of the parts as possible. I had decided not to paint or lag or cover anything. This brake cylinder came from a Rover 400 and has a bore of 3/4 inch. The bore is very nicely finished, honed I imagine, and is probably much better than I could machine.



 

There are 4 unwanted holes, one for the bleed nipple, one for the brake pipe and 2 for the fixing bolts. I turned up some plugs from aluminium that would screw into the bleed nipple and brake pipe holes and go through into the cylinder and plug the small holes all in one go. these are threaded 10mm X 1mm. The 2 mounting holes were similarly plugged with aluminium threaded 6mm X 1mm. 





They were screwed in tight with a drop of loctite then the excess then cut off.





The cylinder was then mounted in the mill and machined flat. Then the ends were turned flat in the lathe.





Which gave me this.









Cheers

Rich


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## tel (Jul 23, 2010)

Unique engine and beautiful execution, wot more can I say. A credit to you and your mentor!


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## Philjoe5 (Jul 23, 2010)

Neat engine Rich. Sort of reverse evolution - building a steam engine from IC engine parts. Cool 

Cheers,
Phil


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## SAM in LA (Jul 23, 2010)

Rich,

What a cool engine.

It reminds me of some figurines made of nuts, bolts and washers welded together which looked like people working in different fields.

I am looking forward to seeing how this build progresses.

SAM


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## lathe nut (Jul 23, 2010)

I like dat me, please show us more, my favorite scrap yard closed a few years ago, you could go there and find just about anything you wanted, I sure miss digging for treasure, your project brings good memories of those days, Lathe Nut


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## firebird (Jul 24, 2010)

Hi

Thankyou Tel, Phil, Sam and lathenut

Here's a bit more from way back when.

I made a brass plate for the slide valve to work on, running it straight on the aluminium face would result in too rapid wear I thought. the plate had 10 holes drilled for the studs. 





I then used a centre drill to chain drill the 3 ports.





I then used this plate as a guide to drill the 10 holes in the cylinder and then tap them 7BA. I have used 3/32 stainless steel rod for the studs which takes a 7BA thread nicely.

With the brass plate screwed to the cylinder and the cylinder fixed to an angle plate I milled the 3 ports. The centre port which is the exhaust port is milled deeper than the two outer ports which are the inlet ports





The two inlet ports are then extended.





The cylinder was then mounted on a tilting table in the mill and the angle set so when drilled from the end of the inlet port the drill would break through into the very end of the cylinder.





Here the port is being drilled.





Ok now back to the present and today's progress.

I made a couple of pins for connecting the eccentric rod and the slide valve rod from 3/32 stainless steel with 7BA nuts.









I have decided the engine needs a flyball governor. It won't actually function as a governor it will be purely cosmetic. Brian Rupnow posted some plans for just such a governor (they are in the download section) so I printed out his picture to give me something to work to, many thanks Brian. In keeping with my plan to use as many old car parts as possible I have used a couple of ball bearings salvaged from a wheel bearing. They are 3/8 diameter, slightly smaller than on Brians plan but will do for this job. By heating them up and then allowing to cool it softens them sufficiently to be drilled. I held the balls (no silly comments here please) :big: :big: :big: in a 3/8 collet in the lathe and drilled in about 1/8 with a 1/8 drill.





A piece of 1/4 square brass bar has a 1/8 slot milled into it.





And then has 2 1/16 holes drilled.





2 pieces of 1/8 stainless steel each have a 1/16 hole drilled in them 1/16 from the end.





Each piece was then pushed into a ball and measured then each was turned to equal length.





Each piece was then clamped into its ball and silver soldered in.





After a clean up with wet and dry the look ok.







Here I am rounding the ends.





A trial fit with a couple of pieces of 1/16 brass rod as pins.





The 1/4 square brass is held in the 4 jaw and profiled with a round cutter and parted off. Then re-chucked, drilled through and tapped 1/8 x 40.





The assembly so far.





Here endeth today's installment.

Cheers

Rich


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## SAM in LA (Jul 24, 2010)

Rich,

Thanks for posting your build.

When you held the ball bearing in the collet, did you have anything inside the collet to keep the ball from being pushed to far in?

SAM


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## firebird (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Sam

No nothing, it gripped it ok. I started with a small centre drill then went in about 1/8 with a new 1/8 drill.

Cheers

Rich


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 25, 2010)

As expected, I found some tid-bits of learnings here. Thanks Rich.
I'm glad the thread will continueth.


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## firebird (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi

Carl, no problemeth.

The wife went to church this morning so I went out to my own little place of sanctuary. I continued with the flyball by making a start on the arms. A piece of 1/4 stainless steel about a 2 1/4 inch long was held in the mill and had a 1/8 slot a 1/4 inch long machined into each end.









Drill a 1/16 hole in each end





Then cut in half and each piece machined to length.





Each piece has a 1/16 hole drilled in the other end





I have turned one piece down to an 1/8.









I had to pack it in then.

Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi

Here's a few more pics from the olden days.

The cylinder bottom cover is a straightforward turning job.





Then transferred to the rotary table and mill to have 5 holes drilled.





Before parting off I turned a small lip on the face that sits inside the cylinder bore.

The top cover incorporates the gland for the piston rod.









Matching holes were drilled and tapped in the cylinder, 7 BA.









Studs of 3/32 stainless steel threaded 7 BA were made and fitted.





A trial fit of the 2 covers. You can see in this shot where I have drilled across for the exhaust outlet, it connects with central port on the cylinder face which was machined deeper.





Cheers

Rich


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## bearcar1 (Jul 25, 2010)

That is just too 'cool' 8) A fine looking engine. 

BC1
Jim


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## Julian (Jul 25, 2010)

Excellent model....the best I've seen for a long time. It's better in person than on the pics and videos. They do not do it justice. 

Keep going mate. there's plenty to do.....the driven water pump, the generator, any other spinney twirly bits that can look good and enhance it!!!!

julian


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## firebird (Jul 26, 2010)

Hi

Thanks Jim.

Spinney twirly bits :big: :big: :big: :big: I like that.

Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Jul 26, 2010)

Hi

A little bit more done to the flyball. The 2 arms had their ends milled flat.





Here's the first one done.





Then both arms had another 1/16 hole drilled.





A trial assembly.





Cheers

Rich


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## arnoldb (Jul 26, 2010)

Good going Rich 

Now I know what to do with some of the bearing balls I've collected after turning the races into parallels ;D

Kind regards, Arnold


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## lowietje (Jul 26, 2010)

in some mouse balls are softsteel ball bearing balls to


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## ChooChooMike (Jul 26, 2010)

:bow: :bow: what a whimsical looking engine !! A GREAT JOB !!



			
				Philjoe5  said:
			
		

> Neat engine Rich. Sort of reverse evolution - building a steam engine from IC engine parts. Cool



DE-evloution, or RE-evolution !

Mike


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## tel (Jul 26, 2010)

Viva le Revolution!


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## NickG (Jul 27, 2010)

Just seen this Rich, it's brilliant, I love it! :bow:


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## firebird (Jul 27, 2010)

Hi

Thanks Arnold, Iowietje, Mike, Tel, & NIck

A little more done tonight. I have made the thingy bit that slides up and down the shaft that has a groove in it for a fork to fit into. I'm sure there's a proper name for it but you will see what I mean. 
To start I silver soldered a piece of flat brass 1/4 x 1/8 to the end of a piece of 1/4 round brass. The piece of flat brass ends up at 9/16 so needs to be a little longer to start with.





Mounted in a 1/4 collet in the lathe the piece can be turned to 9/16.





Here the piece is being squared up in the mill vise.





A 1/8 wide slot is milled in each end .2 deep









Next a 1/16 hole is drilled in each side.





Back in the lathe it is drilled 1/8.





A groove is cut with a parting tool and then the piece is parted off.





A trial fit shows the governor in the down position.





And the up position.





Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Jul 29, 2010)

Hi

No progress over the last couple of days but here's some photos from earlier.

The piston is made of brass. I started by turning down until a nice sliding fit was achieved in the cylinder. I have some sketches somewhere but I can't lay my hands on them at the moment so I'm hoping the pictures will give a good enough account.





I ground a piece of tool steel to cut a couple of oil grooves, about .010 deep and wide.





Drill and tap 1/8 x 40 then counter bore 1/8 about 1/8 deep. The counter bore allows the piston rod to enter which helps to keep things true. All of these operations were carried out without removing the piece from the chuck to maintain concentricity.





A piece of 1/8 stainless steel is threaded 1/8 x 40, held in the tail stock chuck and screwed into the piston tight with a drop of loctite on the thread.





Then the piston is parted off.





Held in the chuck by its piston rod and faced.





The piston rod guide is made up from 2 pieces of aluminium. One piece is mounted on the cylinder with 2 3/32 studs threaded 7BA. The other piece is fixed to the first piece with 2 similar studs. There is a brass guide bush made from 1/4 hex brass screwed into the top. If I remember correctly I used a long 1/8 drill through from the bottom of the cylinder (the bottom cover removed) through the top cover gland and then through the piston rod guide to locate the correct position.









I hope that explains it well enough. If there are any questions just fire away.

Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Aug 11, 2010)

Hi All

Sorry there hasn't been any posts for a while, I've been away on holiday. I will hopefully get some more uploaded at the weekend.

chers

Rich


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 11, 2010)

Nice work---Good looking governor in progress too!!!!----Brian


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## firebird (Aug 14, 2010)

Hi Brian

Thanks, and thank you for posting your governor.

Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Aug 16, 2010)

Hi

Sorry for the delay in posting but my first grandchild, a girl, was born yesterday ;D ;D ;D ;D so I'm a little pre-occupied at the moment. I'll get back to the shop soon though.

Cheers

Rich


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 16, 2010)

Congratulations, Grandpa---I've got 2 girl grandkids, and its wonderfull.---Brian


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## Maryak (Aug 16, 2010)

Rich,

Congratulations Grandpa. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## zeeprogrammer (Aug 16, 2010)

Congratulations Rich!

We had our first granddaughter last September.

You've got some wonderful times coming up (that will/should keep you out of shop). ;D


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## NickG (Aug 17, 2010)

Congratulations Rich!


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## firebird (Aug 17, 2010)

Hi

Thankyou all very much. I still have the big grin at the moment ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

I will have to spend extra time in the shop now, I have 2 years (there abouts) to build her a 2 inch scale steam wagon : : :

Right then, back to the flyball governor. I need to turn the drive through 90° so a couple 45° bevel gears will be needed. As yet I haven't delved into the art of gear cutting so I had a quick peruse around e bay. I found this set of 8 + 2 pins + 4 shims (4 gears of each size) for £7.39 so ordered them, they arrived today. They are, I believe replacement diff gears for radio controlled cars (so I'm still within the car parts theme, just) and are really well made.





The contents of the packet laid out and the diameters measured.





Heres a shot of the flyball governor next to the gears. 2 of the smaller ones will be about the right scale.





I have started to sketch out the frame I will need.









Cheers

Rich


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## kustomkb (Aug 17, 2010)

Congratulations Rich!

Nice work you are doing on your engine too.


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## firebird (Aug 21, 2010)

Hi

Thanks Kev.

Some more work on the flyball today.

First thing was to make a sketch of where I needed to drill holes in a piece of 3/8 thick x 2 inch aluminum bar that I will make the frame from. Doe's anybody else do it this way??





The 2 gears I'm using by the way have a 3mm hole in the centre, I need a 1/8 hole in at least one of them to fit the shaft. I trashed 2 new 1/8 drills getting through one gear, they are really hard, but got there in the end. The other I shall leave as 3mm and make a shaft to suit.





With the material mounted in the mill I squared up one end.





Then found a datum at the bottom left corner using a laser edge finder then zeroed the dials.





Now using my co ordinate sketch I drilled a series of 1/8 holes.





A rough outline drawn on with a felt tip pen.





Then its a case of join up the holes with a 1/8 cutter.









Which results in a piece close to the drawing.





Two 3/16 holes drilled in line.





I have made 3 bushes from 1/4 phosphor bronze, turned down to 3/16 to give a shoulder and drilled through 1/8.





A trial fit with the drilled out bevel gear.





A 3/16 hole drilled in the back.





Which takes the third bush.





I have turned down the end of a piece of 1/8 stainless steel round bar and pressed the gear onto it.











 

Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Aug 21, 2010)

Hi

Here's a few photos from earlier. There is a drawing somewhere (I have put it in a safe place). They are of the slide valve being made.

A piece of square brass bar, 3/8 I think, is cleaned up.





Then has a square recess machined in it.





Then a 1/8 slot milled.





A 1/16 slot is milled across.





Machined down to size.





Part off.





The completed slide valve.





Cheers

Rich


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## arnoldb (Aug 22, 2010)

Good going Rich!

I like the way you made the frame for the governor!

Regards, Arnold


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## firebird (Aug 22, 2010)

Hi

Thanks Arnold

I have made a sleeve/spacer from 5/16 round brass, drilled through 1/8 and turned down to 3/16.





Cross drilled and tapped to take a 3mm x .5 grub screw.





A trial fit in the frame using a 1/8 drill as a spindle.





The sleeve/spacer is then silver soldered to the bevel gear.









Back in the lathe held on a length of 1/8 steel rod by its grub screw it can be cleaned up.





Fitted into the frame. Note I now have a lock nut at the top to hold things together.





Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Aug 22, 2010)

Hi

Just gave the governor a quick test run, here's a video.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_sm7TvJWOQ[/ame]

Cheers

Rich


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## NickG (Aug 23, 2010)

Looking good Rich, I can't see the vid yet but will have a look later. Great idea with the RC car diff gears.

Nice work as always :bow:


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## zeeprogrammer (Aug 23, 2010)

Cool.


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## firebird (Aug 25, 2010)

Hi

Thanks Nick and Carl

Here's some photos of the steam chest being made from a piece of 3/8 thick aluminium bar. Note it includes a foot that the cylinder will be mounted on.





The steam chest being cut out.





And after a little more machining.





After parting off matching stud holes have been drilled. In this photo I drilling through for the valve rod.





Cheers

Rich


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## Blogwitch (Aug 26, 2010)

Just a little idea for you Rich.

It is a little late now as you have already done it.

Instead of using bevel gears, you could have used a Hobson's coupling to turn it thru 90°.

What is a Hobsons coupling you may ask?

Well you know all the elbow engines that have been made, that is a Hobsons coupling, but is used in a different context as the coupling has been turned into a motor. It was originally designed to allow a drive to be turned thru a right angle, but also allow the upper part to rotate around the input shaft, just as a bevel gear does. 

I made a very rough and ready coupling a couple of years back, just to see if it works, and it does, and isn't as critical as the engines are to having everything spot on square and tight fits. I can't find it at the moment, but if I do, I will take a piccy.

Below is a very, very, very roughie C-o-C.


John


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## firebird (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi John

I'd like to have a look at one of those.

Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Aug 26, 2010)

Hi

A few more pictures from the early stages.

I made this raised platform so that I could mount some of the components to get an idea what it would like. It's 4mm alluminium on 6 alluminium legs.





This shot shows an early mock up. I have used 2 con rods with the beam in between the 2. The boiler (not yet made) in the back ground.





Here I have started to make the crankshaft bearings from brass.













Drilling and reaming for the crankshaft.









Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Sep 12, 2010)

Hi

It seems ages since I had a bit of shop time but managed a couple of hours yesterday. I have done a bit more to the flyball governor, starting with the pulley. Its a straightforward bit of turning from 3/8 brass.





With a grub screw.





Followed by a brass spacer that fits behind the bevel gear and 6 pins made from 1/16 stainless steel threaded 10 BA each end with a brass nut on each end.









Cheers

Rich

PS

How doe's a flyball governor actually work ??? ??? ???


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## Jasonb (Sep 12, 2010)

You need a lever from just under where the lower arms mount that is linked to a butterfly valve in your steam supply. As the engine speed gets faster the balls will lift the linkage and shut off the steam, as it slows (put under load) they will drop and increase the steam.

One of teh problems with small models is the mass of the balls does not always overcome the friction in teh linkage so they don't work too well, you will need to play about with the spring tension to get it near enough right. But you need to fit a spring first!! It helps to have a threaded portion to make adjustment easier like this

Jason


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## b.lindsey (Sep 12, 2010)

This project is coming along nicely Rich...gosh, the governor is a project of it's own but looks great.

Bill


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## firebird (Sep 17, 2010)

Hi

Here's a bit more from early on.

This is the start of making the crankshaft webs from a piece of mild steel.









Milling away the webs, you can see where I ran the cutter into the end by mistake so I had to face it again.





Here's the two webs after parting off along with 2 pieces of silver steel.





Loosely assembled.





And after silver soldering. I was a bit heavy handed with the silver solder so it needed quite a bit of cleaning up.





In this shot you can see I have now decided to use just one con rod. I have milled a slot in the top and made a bush to attach part of a wiper blade. I was never happy with the way it looked so changed it later.





This is how it was starting to look.





Cheers

Rich


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## arnoldb (Sep 18, 2010)

Thanks for the update Rich - It's nice to see the bits coming together :bow:

A question if you don't mind - What parting tool do you use ? I still occasionally struggle with parting off mild steel, and doing it on an interrupted cut like on the webs would be a sphincter pulsing operation...

Thanks & Regards, Arnold


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## cfellows (Sep 18, 2010)

Looking real good, Rich.

Chuck


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## firebird (Sep 19, 2010)

Hi

Thanks Chuck.

Arnold, I use a rear mounted parting tool on my Myford. Its 2mm wide. It is one of the best things I have bought. Parting off is easy. I bought the tool post at a show for £20.00. Its not genuine Myford but but works just as well. The parting tool I also bought at a show for £30.00.





Cheers

Rich


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 19, 2010)

Nice work. I'm going to build my next crankshaft that way. However, since I have had a couple of crankshafts fail due to my skill (or lack thereof) in silver soldering, I will drill and pin them as well. I had a silver soldered joint on the crankshaft of my twin horizontal engine fail right in the final stages of run-in, and was fortunately able to resolder it "in place". I had a similar failure in the crank on my Webster engine. I doubt that my silver soldering is going to get a whole lot better, so the pinned joints will give me that extra bit of insurance.----Brian


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## b.lindsey (Sep 19, 2010)

Rich...still coming along nicely. Was curious as to why the center hole in the crank webs wasn't located in the center of the circle. Won't it tend to make the rounded portion of the webs "lope" as they go round. They will surely work just as you have them...more as asthetic question I think. I love what you used for the beam 

Bill


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## arnoldb (Sep 19, 2010)

Thanks very much Rich 

I'll have to start looking for a nice thin parting tool like that!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## firebird (Sep 19, 2010)

Hi

Bryan, later on after cleaning the crankshaft I did drill and pin just to make sure. I'm not certain if I have any photos of the operation but from memory I used 1/16 brass rod (brazing rod) and drilled the holes slightly under that size so that the pins were a tight hammer fit. 

Bill, this was my first crankshaft made while I was still a bit wet behind the ears. As you say it may have looked better drilling in the centre but it works OK. The idea behind this beam engine was to use as many scrap car parts as possible. I was struggling to find something suitable for the beam so that's why I used the wiper blade. I was never happy with the way it looked but stuck with it while the engine progressed until much later when I changed the beam for one made out of 2 con rods joined together.

Arnold, I can't remember where I saw it now, maybe a magazine article, where a tungsten carbide tipped 10 inch circular saw blade was cut up to give about 6 parting blades complete with brazed in tips. I haven't tried the idea but circular saw blades can often be bought quite cheaply. It might be worth investigating.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Sep 19, 2010)

Hi

Some more photos from earlier.

This first shot shows some work being done on the slide valve links. The fulcrum is made from 1/8 brass with a small boss silver soldered on. I drilled and tapped a new stud hole in the steam chest and drilled a matching hole in the cover and made a stud to suit.





Here I am making the bit that joins the slide valve rod to the link. it is silver soldered to the slide valve rod and has 2 nuts on the link for adjustment





Using a couple of steel buttons as a guide for filing the end round.





Here I am drilling and tapping a big end cap that will be the mounting for the crankshaft.









Moving on to the eccentric, here I am setting up the offset.





In the mill I drilled for the crankshaft and a central stud. The holes are drilled fairly deep so that I can part off an end plate as well.





Having parted of the eccentric I drilled and tapped for a grub screw.





Here's the eccentric with its end plate.





This is a phosphor bronze bush out of the scrap bin having a piece parted off. The eccentric has been machined to suit this bush.





The eccentric link being machined.





This photo shows where I will silver solder the bronze bush to the link.





Cheers

Rich


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## firebird (Sep 25, 2010)

Hi

In this shot you can see the phosphor bronze ring has been silver soldered on. I have drilled and tapped the end 1/8 x 40 for the rod to screw into. I have also drilled and tapped the eccentric and made a stud to bolt the end plate on.





I said earlier I was never happy with the wiper blade as the beam so here's my next attempt. Two con rods have there big ends cut off and machined to equal length.





I made a block of steel to fit between the two and clamped it all up.









Con rods are cast iron so don't weld particularly well but with care I stuck them together.













Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Oct 3, 2010)

Hi

The mock up has been moved from the ally stand onto a larger box made from a piece of ply. Its beginning to look more like the final layout now.





Turning down a piston to use as the column pedestal. 













Moving on to the con rod. I made a bit of a mistake here. My intention was to drill and ream the brass to 1/4 inch but somehow managed to pick up the wrong drill and drilled it over size. I recovered by making some big end shells from phosphor bronze.





Here the piece of brass is being drilled through before cutting in half.





The two halves being machined to size.





One half is tapped and the other half is drilled clearance.





Which gave me this.





I then drilled it too big, 5/16 I think it was but carried on with a different plan. here it is held onto a bit of bar with card board packing.





Being faced to size.





Turning a big end shell.





Testing with a big end cap.





With half the shell machined away.





I had to carry out this operation twice to get two shells.

Trial fit on a piece of 1/4 bar.













By lightly sanding the faces of the big end and its cap on wet and dry I got a really good fit on the crank pin.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Oct 9, 2010)

Hi

The flywheel (ex camshaft drive gear) is reasonably heavy so the crankshaft needs some outer support. For this I used a big end cap with an aluminium bearing housing on top. 













The brass bush is a straight forward turning job. The groove is an oil way and the hole in the groove allows oil to get to the crankshaft, also the grub screw locates in the groove. The hole in the outer boss is for adjustment.





The central hole is drilled and then reamed off centre.





This shows how the bush can be adjusted to gain perfect alignment





The side of the bush housing has been drilled and tapped.





Cheers

Rich


----------



## metalmuncher (Oct 9, 2010)

Hi I don't know if its just me or is everyone not seeing the pictures. I can see them in all the other posts on the forum. Regards Metalmuncher.


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## arnoldb (Oct 9, 2010)

Very nice Rich :bow: - keep them coming!
It's nice to see a method of adjusting for alignment on a small engine in your build; I presume the eccentric is more for vertical adjustment and that horizontal adjustment is done using the slots on the base of the bearing block ?

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## firebird (Oct 10, 2010)

Hi

I think everyone can see the pictures Metalmuncher, I have had no comments from anyone ??? ??? ???

Arnold, that's right. As you can see the engine is now set up on a bit of plywood, not the best of materials to line things up on. I was trying to figure out a way to possibly line bore the three crank mountings but after a bit of thought I decided it would be better to make the outer one adjustable, it works well.
Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Oct 16, 2010)

Hi

I'm slowly finding the photos so here's a few more.

I made some oil cups from brass. 2 for the crank shaft main bearings, 1 for the eccentric and 1 for the outer crank shaft bearing.









The big end required a bit of creative engineering. ( I forgot to leave enough metal to fit one) A 1/16 hole was drilled in the cap.





I then soldered in a bit of 1/16 copper pipe and soldered an oil cup on the end of that.





It doesn't look too bad.





Cheers

Rich


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## krv3000 (Oct 16, 2010)

RIGHT IM off to the scrap yard to get A V8 thats sum work  brill  regards bob


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## cfellows (Oct 16, 2010)

Who would've thunk it? Those scrap connecting rods and pistons are good for a bunch different things. Your application, however, is a new one on me. 

Chuck


----------



## seagar (Oct 16, 2010)

WOW!!!! This is one of the most interesting builds I have followed.Thank you .I can't wait to see the finished engine.

Ian ( seagar).


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## firebird (Oct 23, 2010)

Hi

Some work done on the flyball governor today. First job was to remove the piston base and drill and tap a 4 BA hole.









And fit a brass stud.



.

The flyball fitted with a brass nut.





then re fitted to the engine.





The flyball pulley is a simple turning job from 7/16 round brass.





In keeping with the ex car parts theme I made the belt from an oil filter rubber seal.





Here's a bit of video

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4qew3_G6IE[/ame]

Cheers

Rich


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 23, 2010)

Rich---I love it!!!----Brian


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## dsquire (Oct 23, 2010)

firebird

That is a beautiful engine. it's different than most seen on these pages but in a nice way. The use of all the recycled items really does add to the overall charm of this beam engine. Thanks for taking the time to do the build log and keep us up to date with the great pictures. :bow: :bow:

Cheers 

Don


----------



## doc1955 (Oct 23, 2010)

You have made one of the most amazing recycled engine parts engine I have seen!
I am amazed! :bow: :bow: :bow:
I'm a believer in use whats available but you have taken it to a totally new level! :bow:
Wish I could get more shop time than I have lately maybe when the snow starts to fly.
Nice very nice build!!


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Oct 23, 2010)

I haven't posted much but I've been watching.
I do enjoy your builds.
(Although I miss seeing a shot or two out your window.) ;D


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## firebird (Oct 24, 2010)

Hi Brian, Doc, Don and Carl.

Today I finished rebuilding the boiler after fetching it out of mothballs. A couple of mods have been carried out. I have drilled a few more vent holes across the back, the burner seemed to be lacking air when I last ran it. I have also fitted an exhaust steam pipe up the funnel ready to connect the beam engine to. You can just see the connection on the top right of the side casing.





Here the boiler is in position on its stand next to the engine.





Here's a shot for you Carl, looking down my shop and into the garden.





Cheers

Rich


----------



## arnoldb (Oct 24, 2010)

That is really looking nice Rich :bow:

Golly; a sunny day in the UK !

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Oct 24, 2010)

Nice sunny day Rich!
Thanks for the pics. It gives me an idea too. I work in the basement and if I'm gone more than a couple of days...the spidies tend to find homes in my equipment. I'll get some covers...although I do like sitting here and looking around at the shop.


----------



## NickG (Oct 25, 2010)

Rich,

That looks even more amazing with your boiler :bow:


----------



## firebird (Nov 2, 2010)

Hi

I need to make a regulator/shut off valve for the engine. I'm thinking that the valve should be close to the boiler, fitted directly into steam dome so that the steam can be shut off at source???? Any thoughts as to a suitable type would be appreciated. A drawing or sketch would help as well.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## arnoldb (Nov 3, 2010)

Hi Rich

Keeping in mind I have limited experience with live steam...

I'd agree that it would be best to have the shut-off on, or as close as practical to, the steam dome. If I remember correctly KN Harris recommends this in his book on boilers for systems with a single shut-off valve.

Attached is a copied image for the shut-off / regulator valve from Dave Watkins's plans for the De Winton Idris locomotive; you might have to change some dimensions, angles and threads to suit your layout, but at least as far as I'm aware this regulator meets UK regulations as the valve spindle cannot just be unscrewed completely.

Hope this help a bit.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## firebird (Nov 4, 2010)

Hi Arnold

Thanks for that. I have some experience of the needle type as I made 2 valves for the small steam plant. I just wondered if that was the best type to use..

Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Nov 13, 2010)

Hi

Well its been slow going of late, not much shop time but I have managed to make this little valve.





While going through my drill drawer looking for something else I came across a taper reamer I have, I don't know why I have it, it's just one of those things you pick up. Anyway it gave me the idea to make the valve you see here. The correct method is to make a tapered D bit (described by John Bogstandard somewhere on the forum but I can't find it at the moment) and while the lathe top slide is set over make the tapered part of the valve at the same setting thus ensuring that the two parts fit together ok. I decided to have a go using the taper reamer I have ( I believe they are used for making the holes that tapered pins are knocked into).

I started with a bit of 7/16 brass held in a collet, drilled through and then the tapered reamer used too make the tapered hole.





Then I held the reamer in a collet and with a dial gauge set the top slide over until I achieved a zero reading along the reamer. his operation turned out to be easier than I thought.





Now with the top slide set over I turned a taper on a bit of brass.





A trial fit of the two parts. They fit together quite well. I carried on turning until I had about 3/8 extra sticking out of the body.





Next job was to turn the end down to 3mm and thread.





I used the tapered part as a mandrel to hold the body which I turned down to 10mm.





Centered in the milling machine and cross drilled 1/16.





Two pieces of 1/4 brass about 7/16 long are threaded 1/4 x 40 and drilled through 1/16. Each piece is held in a mandrel and the ends profiled with a 10mm cutter to match the radius of the body.





Here they are on the body.





Here the parts are assembled and held in a clamp. Note I have used a bit of 1/16 brass rod to keep the parts in line.





After silver soldering.





After a pickle to clean it up and the valve part has a about 1/2 inch turned down and parted off. I had to run a 1/16 drill through the body to clear the bit of 1/16 brass I used to keep the parts in line.





Very carefully heat up and bend over to form the handle.





Make a brass washer, about 1.5mm thick.





Assembled with a short length of stainless steel spring.





After a polish up, the finished valve.





I had one problem with the method I used. When I silver soldered the parts together the pressure of the clamp squashed the body slightly making the tapered hole oval. I had to run the tapered reamer through to clean it out and re cut the hole. Now of course the tapered valve part is too small so I had to make another (the one you see here) to fit. Next time I will do the soldering first then cut the tapered hole. 

Anyway I got there in the end and the valve seems to work ok.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=og2nmhnmKzw[/ame]

I'm not sure yet whether I will use this valve on the engine but its been fun.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## arnoldb (Nov 13, 2010)

;D Rich, to paraphrase the "slightly younger than myself generation" - COOL 8) :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## firebird (Nov 14, 2010)

Hi Arnold

Cool will do just fine, thanks.

I have just been out to the workshop to put a new battery in the wife's watch, tricky little things you know, they take a couple of hours to fit : : :

While out there waiting for the battery to do something ;D ;D ;D I tried the valve again and found it a little tight to turn. I think maybe the taper angle should be less steep, if that makes sense. Making ones own taper D bits would be better. Once I had it moving ( a pair of pliers ) it was ok again.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Nov 14, 2010)

Nicely detailed post Rich.
Nifty valve that I'll have to remember.

Do you know what you heated the handle to before bending it? Was it red hot?

I'm just asking before several people pop in and say "See Zeep? That's how you do it." :big:


----------



## firebird (Nov 14, 2010)

Hi Carl

I don't know exactly the temp, I just held it with a pair of pliers and heated it up. Then I could feel when it was ready and just eased it over.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## doc1955 (Nov 14, 2010)

Nice job that's a nice looking valve.
The more I look at this engine the more I feel I need to start looking for some parts to put together and make a version similar to it I REALLY like it!


----------



## arnoldb (Nov 14, 2010)

Rich, you had to recharge the battery and make sure the watch was keeping time OK afterwards 

KN Harris mentions the problem you got with the taper valve in his book on boilers; apparently it works better if you add some grease at assembly, but I can't remember if he specified a specific type of grease. I'll look it up for you if you want to.

Regards, Arnold


----------



## firebird (Nov 14, 2010)

Hi Doc

I work in the motor trade and its amazing the stuff we now chuck in the scrap bin. More and more parts come as a pre assembled unit. An example is wheel bearings, it's becoming quite common now that the bearing comes complete with its hub/housing/brake drum. The days of pressing bearings in are fast disappearing. You could argue against the waste but I suppose it must be more cost efficient at the point of manufacture. You may have noticed that I used a brake cylinder for the cylinder on this engine. When I first started in this trade it was the norm to buy and fit seal kits to cylinders, cylinders were very rarely changed, now its the norm to fit new and throw the old one away. Still it keeps me in raw material.

Arnold,

if its no trouble I'd be interested to know what type of grease.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## arnoldb (Nov 14, 2010)

No problem Rich - it's graphite grease.

An excerpt from the book with the bit relating to plug cocks - you might find it useful:


> Plug cocks have a bad reputation amongst model engineers, but this
> is realiy due more to faults in design and construction, and worse still,
> complete neglect in use, than to any inherent faults. Properly made of
> suitable materials to correct design, and properly maintained in service
> ...



Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## firebird (Nov 14, 2010)

Hi

Here's some more photos of the build.

This is the size and layout of the main mounting plate which is made from 4mm aluminium.





Sizing the plate. This may not be the correct way to hold down a piece this size. I have a piece of chipboard underneath to hold it clear of the table. A large stop at each end and then clamps at each end to hold down. I took very light cuts and had no problems with lift or movement.





cutting out the hole for the flywheel using a 1/8 cutter.





The flywheel hole completed and the two outer crank bearing holes drilled.





The piston that I used as a pedestal is mounted onto the plate with one stud into a gudgeon pin I made from aluminium. That allows for fine adjustment in several planes to get the column lined up.









Here's a shot of the wood base being made. It's a piece of mahogany faced furniture board that I have edged with oak. The oak edging is a bit thicker than the board to leave a bit of space underneath, just enough for the leg (exhaust valves) mounting nuts.





These are the brass mountings that the legs (exhaust valves) screw into. I cut a thread onto the top of each valve stem. I had to heat and quench the end of each valve stem to soften the metal first. I think I used an old 1/4 UNF die to cut the thread.





Each brass mounting has a cap screw silver soldered in. After soldering the cap head was cut off to leave a stud. Each of the 8 mountings is then attached to the main plate with dome nut (visible in earlier photos). The threaded valve is then screwed into the brass mounting which allows for a little adjustment to get all 8 legs sitting flush on the base board. Each valve has been drilled and tapped 3mm into its head and a short stud fitted. 8 corresponding holes are drilled in the base board and nuts fitted underneath. (photos to follow if I can find them)





Here's a couple of shop made brass nuts that secure the outer crank bearing support.





This shot shows where I have made and fitted a couple of stainless steel studs and brass nuts to the beam centre bushes to secure them and stop them turning.





Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Nov 14, 2010)

Hi Arnold

Thanks for that. We use graphite grease in CV joints. I'll bring some home.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## Maryak (Nov 14, 2010)

firebird  said:
			
		

> While out there waiting for the battery to do something ;D ;D ;D I tried the valve again and found it a little tight to turn. I think maybe the taper angle should be less steep, if that makes sense. Making ones own taper D bits would be better. Once I had it moving ( a pair of pliers ) it was ok again.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rich



Rich,

I think you mean steeper ??? Shallow tapers ala morse etc. are self locking and you want easier turning hence steeper or higher included angle. From memory I think around 22o included angle.

Hope this helps

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## firebird (Nov 15, 2010)

Hi Bob

Yes that's what I meant Thm: Thm: Thm:

Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Nov 20, 2010)

Hi

A bit of experimental work today. I have made a couple of trays to take solid fuel tablets. The reason I made 2 is so that I can have one burning in the boiler and another ready to go in when that one burns out. 

The trays are made of aluminium. I draw out the pattern on the computer, print it out and stick it to the sheet aluminium with spray glue.

This is the pattern. The 20mm circles are just to give a guide for a radius at the handle corners.





The 2 patterns stuck to a piece of aluminium plate.





It's then an easy job to cut them out on the bandsaw.









I used a folding machine to fold the tray.





Then over to the brazing hearth to alloy weld/solder the corners.









A lack of concentration and I melted the corner of one tray but it will still be ok.





Here's the two trays so far.





Some small pieces of the aluminium folded.





And welded/soldered to the bottom of the trays as feet.





In practice they work really well. They are designed to hold 4 square tablets which burn for 15 minutes.

Here's a video of the test burn.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xmoh7k1B7Gg[/ame]

Cheers

Rich


----------



## GWRdriver (Nov 20, 2010)

firebird  said:
			
		

> When I first started in this trade it was the norm to buy and fit seal kits to cylinders, cylinders were very rarely changed, now its the norm to fit new and throw the old one away. Still it keeps me in raw material. - Rich


Rich,
I recently discovered this when I went to buy wheel cylinder rebuild kits for my 20 year-old Toyota pickup truck. A new cylinder could be had for less than the rebuild kit I have to think that a combination of lack of skilled people, the price of shop labor time, and to some small extent liability, plays into the shift to replace rather than rebuild.


----------



## firebird (Nov 20, 2010)

Hi

You're probably right on all counts Harry, and the fact that most of it is made in the far east!

One more part made today, it's a simple turning job that requires no explanation. It's an adapter that fits into the filler plug on top of the steam dome that has a side tapping for the steam valve to fit into and the filler plug fits into the top of that.













Arnold, I tried a bit of graphite grease in the valve and it definitely works more smoothly.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## arnoldb (Nov 20, 2010)

Great going Rich :bow: That looks marvelous!

Glad to hear the grease does it's job; kudos goes to Mr. Harris for that! I didn't even know the CV joint grease was graphite based - but having replaced a couple on some cars of mine I should have guessed as much :-[ - BLACK stuff - gets everywhere :big:

I'm intrigued to know what you are going to use the other two ports on the steam dome for 

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## firebird (Nov 20, 2010)

Hi Arnold

The dome has 1 outlet for the steam pressure gauge 3/16 x 40 and 2 outlets 1/4 x 40. The filler on top is tapped 5/16 x 32. Unfortunately there is not enough clearance to screw the steam valve directly into the dome hence the adapter in the top. The 2 outlets in the side will have blanking plugs fitted.

cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Nov 27, 2010)

Hi

Some more photos.

I made a displacement lubricator and a steam/oil separator. They are very similar to the ones I made for my small steam plant, a full description of how they are made can be found there. This lubricator has a drain tap at the bottom.

This shot shows the displacement lubricator ready to be silver soldered together.





This shot shows the steam chest being tapped to accept the lubricator.





This shot shows the cylinder being tapped to accept the separator.





This shot shows the component parts of the steam/oil separator. Unlike the one on the small steam plant the brass base is tapped to take a drain tap.





Ready to be silver soldered together.





The completed separator.





A trial fit. Note the exhaust from the separator is piped up the funnel.





The slide valve fitted. Note the threaded adapter for the exhaust.





A trial fit of the now polished steam chest cover.





The cylinder and steam chest and components ready for assembly.





Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Jan 1, 2011)

Hi

A happy new year to each and every one of you.

Well it seems ages since I posted anything but I have been busy on other things, tooling being one. I will be posting a couple of bits in the tools section shortly.

The beam engine is progressing, I have been getting the boiler ready for a test steam using the new solid fuel tablets and trays. Mostly stripping and cleaning, not the sort of stuff worth photographing. A couple of new bits though, new brass bungs made for the steam dome.





And a small mod to the steam valve, I have removed the short spring and single nut and replaced them with two nuts locked together.





I have just been round to Julians for some rain water, he has a collection butt at the back of his hot tub, and filtered it twice. All being well I shall have the time for a steam up tomorrow.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Jan 2, 2011)

Hi

I had a good day in the shop today part of which was to carry out a steam test using the solid fuel tablets.

A bit of video is worth a thousand pictures so here it is. I will post some comments and observations shortly.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v30YY1vFKgc[/ame]

Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Jan 2, 2011)

Hi

One part of the video is missing, some idiot forgot to turn the camera on :wall: :wall: :wall:

about 3/4 of the way through the test I pulled the air supply pipe out and the burner carried on burning quite happily. Could that be when the boiler /casing/funnel warms up it creates its own draught ??? Any thoughts or comments on that one.

I mentioned in the video that the tray handles were too hot to handle so I cut some pieces of wood, 2 to each handle and fixed them on with a couple of copper rivets in each. Much better now.





Another mod I'm making is to the safety valve. The valve itself works beautifully but it does blow steam out sidewards. It's quite harmless and is little more than a quick fizz but it does make onlookers jump when it blows off and would be better I think if it were to expel upwards. There is enough spare thread on the adjuster to screw a cap onto. There are no drawings to this bit, it's made completely by eye.

This photo is of the initial turning of some brass. It's designed to fit 22mm copper pipe.





Over to the mill and rotary table to have 6 1/8 holes drilled.





Back in the lathe to tap the centre 5/16





Then part off.





The two parts





Loosely assembled





Standing at the side of the safety valve





And screwed on









The two parts need to be silver soldered together and polished yet.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Jan 9, 2011)

hi
A slight change of plan with the safety valve cover, I decided there is no need to silver solder the two parts together they fit ok as they are.





I have started to make a new steam valve to replace the tapered one that leaks a little. Here's a drawing. As is my usual way when I make a one off part I make it first then measure afterwards and do a drawing. The sizes on the drawing are the actual sizes the parts ended up as.





here's the parts so far laid out on the drawing.





Partially assembled. 









It needs to be silver soldered together yet and some final trimming. The needle has to have some of the square end turned round and threaded to take a brass nut.

Cheers

Rich


----------



## bearcar1 (Jan 9, 2011)

As always Rich, true beauty and craftsmanship to behold. Thm: So spic and span, nicely sorted .... well, you get the idea, BRAVO!!


BC1
Jim


----------



## firebird (Jan 15, 2011)

Hi

Thanks Jim

I finished the new valve today. Silver soldered the parts together and polished up. One cock up though.    I tried to turn a short section of the needle down to a 1/16 to thread for a nut to hold the hand wheel on but advanced the cross slide a little too far and snapped the end of the needle off. fortunately it left a little of the square section, enough to push the hand wheel onto and then secure with super glue. I'll make a new one when time permits.

here's the completed valve.





And fitted to the boiler.





Next I made up a couple of pipes. 

This is the steam feed pipe, it's 1/8.





It needs to be shaped better and lagged yet.

This is the steam exhaust pipe, it's 3/16.





Cheers

Rich


----------



## firebird (Jan 16, 2011)

Hi

 woohoo1 woohoo1 woohoo1 woohoo1 woohoo1

It runs on steam. Have a look

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m12bdcT-Yn0[/ame]

There is nothing quite like the sound of an engine running on steam. The smell, the drips of water and oil
 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Cheers

Rich


----------



## arnoldb (Jan 16, 2011)

th_wav Well done Rich ;D - runs like a charm !
Congratulations!

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## compspecial (Jan 16, 2011)

Great runner rich, way to go! and way to recycle too  a job well done
                Stew


----------



## firebird (Jan 16, 2011)

Hi

Thanks Arnold and Stew

Cheers

Rich


----------



## joe d (Jan 16, 2011)

Rich

Sounds even better than it looks, and it looks great :bow: :bow:

Great job.

Cheers, Joe


----------



## firebird (Jan 16, 2011)

Hi Joe

Thanks

Rich


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jan 16, 2011)

That was great.
When you let out the steam and started the engine...that was awesome.
I love the sound.

Congratulations.

(But I wish it hadn't been night out. I do enjoy seeing out your windows. ;D )


----------



## mcr (Jan 16, 2011)

Thank you so much for the time you have taken to produce the photos and the videos it is clear to me that you enjoy sharing as much as the sense of achievement which come from your excellent work a big thank you.
Mark


----------



## NickG (Jan 17, 2011)

Amazing! Really good Rich, a family heirloom that is. So much nicer seeing engines running on steam, you must have asbestos fingers though!


----------



## firebird (Jan 17, 2011)

Hi

Thanks Carl, it does sound nice doesn't it. Mark,thanks, a big part of this hobby is the sharing and I do enjoy it. Thank you Nick, funnily enough its not that hot.

Cheers 

Rich


----------



## firebird (Jan 29, 2011)

Hi

I took the steam feed pipe off and lagged it today. A drop of super glue on one end holds the string in place then wind it round tight to the other end and secure with another drop of super glue. To get a nice white look I paint the string with typists correction fluid.









I have decided to call an end to this model now. My intention was to build a small boiler feed pump and a dynamo to power a couple of lamps but I'm going to leave that for a future project. I have a couple of workshop tooling projects I want to get on with and then make a start on my next model. 

My thanks to all that have posted comments, they are most welcome. :bow: :bow: :bow:





Cheers

Rich


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## lazylathe (May 18, 2011)

th_confused0052 WOW th_confused0052

I am not sure how i missed this post Rich...
But it was an amazing read!!!!

Excellent workmanship!!
Takes a great mind to build something like that!! :bow:

Andrew


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## Philjoe5 (May 18, 2011)

I too missed this WIP. A super job on the beam engine. I did not see a reference to "steampunk" but surely this would qualify. I say that with the highest of complements on a job well done.

Cheers,
Phil


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## firebird (May 18, 2011)

Hi

Thanks Andrew and Phil.

The engine is still sitting on my bench along side the small steam plant at the moment. I have been busy with domestic duties for the last couple of months but have nearly finished now. It will be a shame to pack them away under the bench so I have room to start my next model.

Cheers

Rich


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