# Started the EZ_ENGINE build.



## woodknack (Nov 11, 2009)

Well I figured I would try my hand at building the ez engine plus I like the design of it. I have made an easy wobbler engine, now I am looking for something with a little more of a challenge but not over my head. So I had the day off from work and I decided to look around the place for material and get started on this. I had a slab of 1/4 x 5 x 24 laying around so i took and hack sawed 2 pieces off for the base and the frame. I then spent some time truing them up on the mini mill. I got the base all drilled and the bottom of the frame drilled and tapped. Going to finish the other frame holes tomorrow and maybe start working on a cylinder.


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## Jack B (Nov 11, 2009)

Good luck on your build. I think getting started is the most difficult part. Jack


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## woodknack (Nov 11, 2009)

Ha ha, for me the hardest part is finishing!!


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## black85vette (Nov 11, 2009)

Off to a fine start. Thanks for the pics Thm:  Not a bad idea to mark up the work so you don't forget which hole is which and do an "opps".


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## woodknack (Nov 13, 2009)

Ok did a little more work today. I found a hunk of aluminum that I could use for the valve and cylinder bodies.






First thing I did was put it on the mill and planed it down to 3/4. The piece was a wedge shape another challenge for a noobie.






After I cut it down to the thickness, I needed to hacksaw off a piece long enough for both cylinders. This is where a nice cut off machine would come in handy! But moneys tight so we do with what we have.






I then squared up the hacksaw end on the mill.






And put it back in the vise to hack it in half for both the valve and cylinder bodies. I had to be careful because I only had about 1/4 of an inch to cut between with the hacksaw.











Here is the valve body all squared up and ready for layout for the next step (drilling).






And this is where I am right at the moment. Valve body all squared. The cylinder body needs to be squared next. The frame is all done drilled and tapped as well as the base.


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## black85vette (Nov 13, 2009)

Excellent! Making do with what you have is right in line with the spirit of this project.  Nice job getting the bodies cut and square.


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## woodknack (Nov 13, 2009)

Ok please tell me there is something wrong with the numbers here in the print. The 2 holes on the frame that the valve body screws to are .875 from each other. on the valve body print it shows the holes at .8125  . Which print is wrong? Or am I just having a stupid moment. :-\


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## black85vette (Nov 13, 2009)

:wall: oh:

EDIT: Bad enough to make a mistake but to make another one while trying to correct the first is just too much! *club*
The information in this post was not correct.


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## woodknack (Nov 13, 2009)

ok thanks. i was thinking it was the valve body. i will plug the hole on the frame and re drill and tap. This actually made me set down and really study the plans. This is a great learning experience for me. Sometimes its good to sit back take a break and study your work. But sometimes I like to bull and had faith in the plans. Hopefully we can get all these bugs worked out so another noobie will be able to just concentrate on laying out measurements and trying to cut as close to them without worrying about something he or she is unsure of. See I am unsure of how this engine really works. Until I build it and see for myself then I will know. And next time it will be much easier for me to spot a mistake. This is great and I am glad you have spent the time to do this. Thanks again.


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## woodknack (Nov 13, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> :wall: oh:
> 
> Dang! A misplaced hole on the upright! Not too bad. The top left hole should be at 3.2" not 3.125". This puts the holes at .800" apart.  The .8125" dimension on the valve body is measured from the edge of the body. The first hole is .125" in from the edge so the holes are .800 center to center.



Hmm im new to all this but.. if you subtract .125 from .8125 you do not get .800 center to center. you get .6875 center to center. Am I learning a little to fast here or and I having a stupid moment? LOL...


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## black85vette (Nov 14, 2009)

woodknack  said:
			
		

> Hmm im new to all this but.. if you subtract .125 from .8125 you do not get .800 center to center. you get .6875 center to center. Am I learning a little to fast here or and I having a stupid moment? LOL...



No, the stupid moment happened on this end.  oh: I misplaced a decimal and the .125 became .0125. Anyway it still looks simple enough.  The top left hole should be .6875" from the other mount point just as you pointed out. So that puts it at 3.3125" from the left edge of the frame. The valve body should still be fine.

Sorry for the error. Thanks for finding it. Karma point to you for starting the build and helping identify bugs.

See if the page below is better.  

View attachment upright3.pdf


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## woodknack (Nov 14, 2009)

Black85vett,

Page looks a lot better. I see you fixed the 4-40 holes on the page too.  I mounted the valve body today But have not drilled the air intake yet because im not sure what I am going to use for a tube size. I started working on the piston cylinder today. I have to figure a way to mount it so I can drill and ream the cylinder in my mini mill. The vise I have in there does not allow me enough room so I may have to makes some sort of clamp to clamp it to the bed. Or I may just mount it in the 4 jaw chuck on my 7x12 lathe. Any ideas are welcome! So far a fun build. I just hope I can get it running on lung power like you did.


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## black85vette (Nov 14, 2009)

Good deal. Hope we are back on an error free track now. If you don't have room under the mill, I did mine in a drill press. However a 4 jaw is a great way to get a straight and square hole.  Hmmmm, SQUARE HOLE???? ??? Seems like a contradiction.

What is the height issue with the mill?


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## woodknack (Nov 14, 2009)

The vise I have sits to high. and my reamer is pretty long. I think if i made some sort of a jig to fix the cylinder to the bed of the mill I would be fine. I really want to drill it and ream it with out resetting anything if I can.


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## black85vette (Nov 14, 2009)

My reamers were way longer than I would ever need so I cut them down so that there is just enough shank to hold it properly in the chuck. I cut mine off with a cut-off wheel mounted on my Dremel. I also use some stubby drills for much the same reason.


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## woodknack (Nov 15, 2009)

Got some more done today. I got so carried away I forgot to take pictures of the piston cylinder while I was cutting it out. But I did manage to drill and ream it. I had to make a jig out of 2 pieces of aluminum angle and bolt it to the piston cylinder then i was able to clamp the angle directly to the table. Worked great! I also turned down the piston too.











If I set the piston in the cylinder and let go it drops to the bottom. But if I put my finger over the air hole the piston slow starts to drop to the bottom and I do mean slowly. I can also blow and suck in the air hole (while holding my finger so that the piston does fly right out) and the piston moves very nicely back and forth with out much effort at all. This is all done dry to no oil. Im very happy with the fit. I think once oil get into the oil grooves it will be even greater. There were no drawings of the piston with oil grooves. I just put them about .100 apart and about .014 deep.


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## woodknack (Nov 15, 2009)

Hey Black85vette,

Does the piston valve have to be made out of steel? can that be made out of brass too? I have the steel but just curios if it can be made out of other material.


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## black85vette (Nov 15, 2009)

woodknack  said:
			
		

> Does the piston valve have to be made out of steel? can that be made out of brass too? I have the steel but just curios if it can be made out of other material.



Piston valve can be made out of almost anything, but I would not do it out of aluminum. Brass will work fine. In fact for those without a mill brass may be better because hand filing the flat for the connecting rod would be much easier.

Oil grooves are optional but a good idea.  When doing oil grooves it is better to do them first and then turn the piston to size. Sounds like you got the piston perfect. Nice free fit but still has compression. 

Parts are looking good and you are doing a nice job.  Great photography also!


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## woodknack (Nov 15, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> Parts are looking good and you are doing a nice job.  Great photography also!



Thanks! I have to give my camera the most credit for the photos (Nikon D40). LOL

Still playing with the cylinder and piston. LOL. If I drop the piston in the cylinder then cover the air inlet hole with my finger and flip the cylinder over, It takes exactly 4 seconds for the piston the slide back out. So far i very happy with this build. And she is starting to come together, slow but sure..


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## va4ngo (Nov 15, 2009)

Great work Woodnack,

Looking forward to see it running

Phil


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## woodknack (Nov 16, 2009)

Well started the valve today. Decided to make it out of brass. This is as far as Ive got so far (had to get ready for work).


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## black85vette (Nov 16, 2009)

You let work get in the way of making engines ??? ??? ???


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## woodknack (Nov 17, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> You let work get in the way of making engines ??? ??? ???


Ha! Got to pay bills so I can keep playing..LOL

OK I finished the valve finally. Just call me slow but steady. Hahaha.





















I should have done the cylinder piston this same way so i had something to hang onto on the milling machine, so I could mill the flat. Not sure how im going to mill the cylinder piston without making some sort of jig to hold it in the mill. Any ideas Black85vette?


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## black85vette (Nov 17, 2009)

Nice work on the valve. In fact everything is looking good.

As for the piston, I don't have a problem with putting it in a vise if you wrap it in some soda can cut into a strip. Just don't go too tight.  A V block or groove in the chuck jaw would be nice to keep it straight. Just make light cuts slowly if you can't get a solid hold on it.


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## woodknack (Nov 18, 2009)

Thanks Black85vette,

Yup that worked fine. I wrapped it in a piece of brass shim stock and put it in the vise. Took it slow and everything went just fine. Now I need to find material for the flywheel. I have aluminum but was thinking brass would be much heavier. Not sure yet on what im going to do there.

Piston Done.


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## black85vette (Nov 18, 2009)

Another nice looking part. The flywheel can look nice in several materials. Weight is not a big issue because you can always go a little thicker with lighter materials.  I did my EZ flywheel very plain but have done several others with hubs, spokes, or holes just for looks. You might want to try something you have not yet done to get some new skills / experience.  I like to pick engines that will teach me something in the process and I have plenty to learn.

I expect we will be seeing a runner soon.


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## woodknack (Nov 19, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> Another nice looking part. The flywheel can look nice in several materials. Weight is not a big issue because you can always go a little thicker with lighter materials. I did my EZ flywheel very plain but have done several others with hubs, spokes, or holes just for looks. You might want to try something you have not yet done to get some new skills / experience. I like to pick engines that will teach me something in the process and I have plenty to learn.
> 
> I expect we will be seeing a runner soon.



Ya this is very rewarding and also keeps me busy doing something. Doing something is better then wishing you did something! I have a lot to learn about metal working. I mostly do wood working (stuff for the house,etc..). I bought a 7x12 mini lathe a few years ago and did a bunch of improvements to it one winter. Also have a Taig cnc mill I put together a few years ago. Problem with that is, I forgot how to use it. LOL Also it was running turbocnc and that is DOS. so now im thinking about going to Mach3 and see if I can set the mill back up with that. And learn how to run it again. MY dad has a mini mill. So I use that when I need to. I really need to Reorganize my very small 12x22 shop. That may happen after I complete this engine.


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## black85vette (Nov 19, 2009)

There are a number of people here with CNC experience. You can always jump over to the Q&A section if you have something you need to ask. I have no CNC experience at all. Barely have any mill experience.

My shop space is small also. Just a corner of the garage. Not a lot of room but the nice thing is that almost anything I need is just about a step or two away. The drawback is that not all tools can be out all the time. Some things come out, get used then go back under the cabinet. It is partly why I have been enjoying building small engines. They take up so little room.  My Vette on the other hand takes up more space than my entire shop! ;D


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## woodknack (Nov 19, 2009)

Black85vette,

Not to get off track here but I saw in another thread you made Elmers #33 engine. :bow: Very nice!! Did you get that from free plan or was it in a book? Id love to build that someday looks fairly easy or not to overly complicated. 


FOUND IT!! Just found it on on elmer's free plans page. Going to print off the plans and read through it.. And more photos of yours?


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## woodknack (Nov 19, 2009)

Started the flywheel. All I had was a piece if 4x4 aluminum. I cut that as close to 3 inch as I could with a hacksaw. Wow that was not fun. Good work out for the arms.LOL.






Got it turned down to size.


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 19, 2009)

Excellent woodknack.
I wasn't too sure about the method (not ever having done it)...so it's great to see your post.


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## black85vette (Nov 19, 2009)

Flywheel is looking good. Good way to make one. Hacksaw had to be tiring.

Yes I did the #33 Horizontal. It was beyond my ability as I started. The body of the engine was tough for me to make. I only had my 7x10 lathe and a milling attachment for it. The holes for the steam chest made me crazy. They are tiny and SO close together. I did the layout and drilling manually on a drill press and no XY table. Also made some minor changes. He had packing nuts on the valve and the head. I skipped both and just kept my fit snug. Lining up the cylinder, piston, head and crosshead so that there was no binding over the entire cycle was a challenge to me because my accuracy just was not that good. Finally the scale was pretty small and the screws smaller than I like. While it was a big challenge, it was also my best effort so far. It is a very nice design and makes a good looking engine.


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## woodknack (Nov 21, 2009)

Well the flywheel is giving me a challenge! All I had big enough for it was aluminum. So I decided to bore out the center of the 3" aluminum blank and insert a piece off 1-1/2 brass. So while boring out the hole I noticed every time I engaged the auto feed on the carriage, it cuts smooth and when it bores through I disengage it and then the bit digs in the aluminum. Wow.  I see that the gib under the front of the carriage is loose. But to tighten it looks hard to get at. Its a 7x12 mini lathe. Does anyone know if I have to take the front part of the carriage off to tighten the gib?


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## ozzie46 (Nov 21, 2009)

Yes you do, and it is a fiddly job of getting just the right compromise of tightness between the large cap screw and the small adjusting screws. The gib should be parallel
 With the bottom of the ways and snug. It is real easy to get the gibs slanted slightly. DAHIKT. If you do then the adjustment won't last long. 
You should also do the gib on the opposite side at the same time to keep everything on an even keel.

 Here ia good site that explains it better than I can. Scroll down to "Adjusting the Saddle"
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Tuning/tuning.htm#adjust_gibs

 Ron


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## black85vette (Nov 21, 2009)

Are you sure that is the issue? Tracking down chatter and other problems can sometimes be tricky. Is there a way you can clamp or lock the carriage and use the compound?  If the problem is still there it is not the carriage. Could be related to the feed. Try the cut by hand. Try eliminating as many variables as possible before taking on a big adjustment.


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## woodknack (Nov 21, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> Are you sure that is the issue? Tracking down chatter and other problems can sometimes be tricky. Is there a way you can clamp or lock the carriage and use the compound? If the problem is still there it is not the carriage. Could be related to the feed. Try the cut by hand. Try eliminating as many variables as possible before taking on a big adjustment.



That is the problem im sure. I can actually lift the carriage up and down and the allen cap screws are loose(But I cant get to them).When I engage the carriage with the auto feed the carriage actually lifts up a hair while running do to it pushing against the lead screw. When I disengage it, it drops down and digs into what I just cut. I guess I know what I will be doing today.


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## woodknack (Nov 21, 2009)

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Here ia good site that explains it better than I can. Scroll down to "Adjusting the Saddle"
> http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Tuning/tuning.htm#adjust_gibs
> 
> Ron



I saw that last night. But to see how to adjust the "Top Adjusting Saddle" he wants you to pay on his "Premium" site. I may because i see a few other things I would like to try.


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## woodknack (Nov 21, 2009)

Ok got the lathe all straightened out. Here are a couple pictures of the flywheel. Has brass in the middle.


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 21, 2009)

Beautiful flywheel woodknack. Very nice.


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## black85vette (Nov 21, 2009)

OK, now that is really cool and it will look great on the engine.  :bow:  Now I will have to steal er.... borrow that idea for one of my builds. It is always nice to add your own touch and personalize a project. How did you fix the brass into the flywheel?


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## Twmaster (Nov 21, 2009)

Woodknack, that looks great! What a terrific idea.

As far as your carriage.... That is one of the issues that the little 7x asian lathes suffer from. However, you can pretty much permanently fix that. It requires a good bit of work but is so worth it when done.

Also, do look into getting a proper carriage lock. The 7x machine is nowhere near rigid enough for consistently accurate/good facing/parting without using a carriage lock. 

I had one of those horrid little lathes and did the mods to the carriage retaining gibs. Well worth the effort. Too bad the rest of the machine fell to crap.


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## woodknack (Nov 21, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> How did you fix the brass into the flywheel?


 
I just turned it with in a couple thousands. then used your trick for the shaft, and used 5 minute epoxy. pressed them together, chucked it back in the lathe and trued it up. The other side is still in rough form. Im going to make my shaft and press it through from the other side then turn it and put the shaft in the chuck and true the other side and I will be done with the flywheel and shaft. Then I'll only have a few more parts to finish her off!!! woohoo1 I am learning alot. And having fun too.


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## woodknack (Nov 21, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Beautiful flywheel woodknack. Very nice.



Thank you but i am bowing to the work you guys do!!  :bow:


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## woodknack (Nov 21, 2009)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> I had one of those horrid little lathes and did the mods to the carriage retaining gibs. Well worth the effort. Too bad the rest of the machine fell to crap.


Oh really. What happened to it? What are you using for a lathe now?


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## Twmaster (Nov 21, 2009)

woodknack  said:
			
		

> Oh really. What happened to it? What are you using for a lathe now?



Well, since you asked.... The cross slide and carriage would never stay adjusted. even after spending hours to lap them. Then the slop came back in the CS lead screw. Then the motor controller failed.... Total crap these machines are (In -MY- opinion).

Right now I do not have a working lathe. It's very frustrating. I'm going to look at a little Atlas tomorrow morning. I do have three antique Rivett lathes I'm working on restoring. They however are nowhere near ready to make chips.

Thankfully my Taig mill is letting me still make some stuff.

I can write up a tutorial on how to replace that retarded setup for carriage gibs on the Asian 7x lathe if you want.


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## woodknack (Nov 21, 2009)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> Thankfully my Taig mill is letting me still make some stuff.
> 
> I can write up a tutorial on how to replace that retarded setup for carriage giobs on the Asian 7x lathe if you want.



I too have a taig mill. 2019 I believe. It is cnc. I have not used it in like 3 years. After I finish this engine I am going to play around with it again. I am thinking about going with mach3 to run it. I was running it with turbocnc and a very old computer. Kind of a pain switching between dos and windows.

and YES a write up would be very helpful. though it only took me about 30 minutes to adjust it. And part of that time was cleaning some of the parts under the carriage.


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## black85vette (Nov 21, 2009)

woodknack  said:
			
		

> I am learning alot. And having fun too.



That's a great part of this hobby. The fact that you end up with a cool little engine is just icing on the cake.


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## Twmaster (Nov 21, 2009)

woodknack  said:
			
		

> I too have a taig mill. 2019 I believe. It is cnc. I have not used it in like 3 years. After I finish this engine I am going to play around with it again. I am thinking about going with mach3 to run it. I was running it with turbocnc and a very old computer. Kind of a pain switching between dos and windows.



I have a 2017 (in fact it's the very last 2017ER Taig had for sale) I've since upgraded to a 12" X-Axis travel table making mine a 2019ER. So far I love the thing. Amazing machine for it's size. If Taig ever decided to sell a 6-8" swing benchtop lathe I would be in heaven!



> and YES a write up would be very helpful. though it only took me about 30 minutes to adjust it. And part of that time was cleaning some of the parts under the carriage.



I'll be happy to write something up over the next few days. I have a lot of stuff going on right now. 

While it only took a little bit of time this time wait until the gib breaks... The solution to this problem fixes it just about forever.


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## Deanofid (Nov 22, 2009)

That flywheel looks great, Woodknack. Nice job! You're coming along with it pretty quickly, too.

Take care when you go to clean up the other side with just that small shaft to chuck on. Really light cuts are called for. It's a lot of leverage against the shaft, peeling metal off at the extreme diameter. Might be better if you could chuck the whole fly wheel, but I don't know your setup.

Keep up the good work!

Dean


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## woodknack (Nov 23, 2009)

Well got my flywheel and shaft all done.

















Ever notice that one project leads to another! I noticed my tailstock was off a little so I decided to adjust it. Now its way off and I don't like how you adjust it. Looks like I may need to stop work on the ez engine to redo my tailstock. Man I am so close. But I dont want to rush things.


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 23, 2009)

Nice finish.

You're not stopping the EZ build. You're preparing to do the next part. ;D


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## Deanofid (Nov 24, 2009)

Look really nice, Woodknack. Very nice finish!

Re; getting the tail stock adjusted. That's just the way it goes! Keeping your machines in good trim is all part of the game, and it's good to take the time for it whenever they need attention. 
You'll get there!

Dean


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## woodknack (Nov 25, 2009)

Ya I am gaining. I managed to get my tail stock adjusted. And got some more work done on the EZ. I only need to make the rods and the crank. ;D


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## Twmaster (Nov 25, 2009)

That contrast of the aluminum and brass on the flywheel looks great!

Really nice job so far.


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## woodknack (Nov 25, 2009)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> That contrast of the aluminum and brass on the flywheel looks great!
> 
> Really nice job so far.



Thanks! 

I keep looking at the cylinders thinking, what can I do to make those look really nice. Not just square looking. Got a few ideas on dressing the frame up too. But before I go hog wild. I would like to see it run first. :big:


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## black85vette (Nov 25, 2009)

woodknack  said:
			
		

> I keep looking at the cylinders thinking, what can I do to make those look really nice. Not just square looking. Got a few ideas on dressing the frame up too. But before I go hog wild. I would like to see it run first. :big:



Oh no! You caught the bling bug. And so SOON! :big:  Seriously, this is some nice looking work. We will expect a video of it running soon.  Good to hear the tail stock is taken care of.


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## woodknack (Nov 25, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> Good to hear the tail stock is taken care of.



Tail stock was a pain and I really wanted to make some mods to it. But I just lapped it in and kept fiddling around with the locking set screw ( got it to repeat every time when locked down). Got to with in 1/2 of thou. That is as good as I can get it with what it is. Took me 3 hours to get it there! I think I may get a new tail stock and totally redo it and make the adjustment mods to it. But that is a whole other project! ;D


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## woodknack (Nov 29, 2009)

Hey Black85vette,
I have a question for ya. I am at the point where I need to make the rod for the piston. I already have made the rod for the valve. I am a little confused on how to measure for the piston rod. On the directions you said this.

"Do almost the same thing for the piston except position the piston .063 before it
hits the bottom of the cylinder and put the crank pivot towards the piston. Measure
and make a connecting rod for that side also."






How did you get in there to measure the distance? This is what is confusing me. Just a newbie thing.. LOL

So do I take the valve cylinder off and but in a .125 drill bit then push the piston up to the bit and then measure from there? If this is right, how do you get a measuring devise in there?


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## black85vette (Nov 29, 2009)

woodknack  said:
			
		

> How did you get in there to measure the distance? This is what is confusing me. Just a newbie thing.. LOL
> 
> So do I take the valve cylinder off and but in a .125 drill bit then push the piston up to the bit and then measure from there? If this is right, how do you get a measuring devise in there?



To do the piston side I just put the piston in then pulled it back .063" and measured from that position. The amount is not critical. Just be sure that when the piston is at top dead center it does not hit the end of the cylinder. You can always "cheat" on some thing like this if you cannot get to the pivot on the piston. Make the connecting rod a little longer than it needs to be and only drill one end. Attach it to the piston and push it in all the way until it stops. Then pull it out 1/16th of an inch. Hold the connecting rod up to the crank and mark the position the other hole needs to be in and you are done. You don't even have to measure it. Eyeball is close enough on this.

On the valve side I removed the piston / cylinder body and used a drill to "feel" for the inside edge of the valve. Once in position you just measure from the pivot point of the valve to the pivot on the flywheel. Check the picture below. Once you have the valve in the fully open position and the flywheel pivot at 9 o'clock. Just measure between the pivots. Or, you can eyeball this one as well.

Maybe this is a drawing that would be useful. What do you think?

Looks like you are getting really close.


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## woodknack (Nov 29, 2009)

Ya I got the valve side all done. That photo helped for that one. 

Does the piston want to stop just before the air hole?


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## woodknack (Nov 29, 2009)

Ok this is what I did for the piston side to measure for the rod.

1. I dropped the piston to the bottom of the hole and measure with my digital caliper from the top of the hole to the bottom of the piston. I came up with .407

2. I then subtracted the .063 from the .407 and got .344

3. I then measured from the bottom of the cylinder to the center of the screw hole in the crank (crank was facing towards the cylinder). And got 1.550

4. Now I added .125 (which is the bottom of the piston to the center of the piston screw hole) to 1.550 and got 1.675

5. so if I did this right that means center to center on the rod screw holes should be (for my setup) 1.675

6. now all I do is add .250 to 1.675 to get my total length of my rod. 1.925

Does this sound right? Am I on the right track? Having fun learning here anyway... ;D


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## black85vette (Nov 29, 2009)

Hmmm. Without going through all the math step by step it sounds about right to me. To verify your math just cut out some stiff card stock to the size and length you came up with and see if it looks about right before cutting the metal.  Measure twice, cut once.  

Aren't you glad we are not building rocket engines?? :big:

I know it would have been easier to just give the size of the connecting pieces in the plans. But this is the one place you can account for accumulated errors in the rest of the build. It won't matter if several holes are slightly off if you make this part to fit rather than make it to spec.


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## woodknack (Nov 29, 2009)

well i guess I should have done the card stock test first!  I measured with the crank screw hole close to the cylinder. It should have been the other way! :'( Oh well I need to make bushings and can still use the rod to get the bushing right. :


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## woodknack (Nov 29, 2009)

Black85vette,

I got it together and running. Got it to run on lung power too! ;D
Im going to make some parts on my cnc mill when I get it all setup again. But for now this is as far as im going to go with it. I need to regroup and clean my shop, lathe etc..

Here is a movie. And thanks for all your help black85vette :bow:


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## ozzie46 (Nov 29, 2009)

ALRIGHT!!! Now thats a runner. Good job.  th_wav

 Ron


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## black85vette (Nov 29, 2009)

woohoo1

Great job. It runs really smooth. You must have gotten all the clearances right and kept the fiction down for it to run like that. The little touches on the flywheel and crank look good and add a lot to the engine. Thanks for sharing the build with us. Someone else will have the same questions as you did and now they are answered. Thm:


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## Powder keg (Nov 29, 2009)

Nice!!!


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## black85vette (Nov 30, 2009)

OK. I am nuts? Looks like your engine is reversed in the video. Piston and valve are on the opposite sides. ??? ???


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## woodknack (Nov 30, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> OK. I am nuts? Looks like your engine is reversed in the video. Piston and valve are on the opposite sides. ??? ???



Now that you mentioned that, It must be my video. Looks like everything is mirrored. Weird. Probably something I did wrong on my end recording the video. I had to have my 10 year old show me how to record a video on the IMAC. I had never done that before. I remember when I was a kid my dad always had me set his digital watch for him. He could never figure it out! I must be getting the same way!!! AHHHHH... :big:

Here is picture I just took showing it is not reversed. Sitting on my dirty cnc taig mill. ;D












Thanks again everybody for all your help. I can't wait to do another one now.. Yes I am hooked


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## woodknack (Nov 30, 2009)

Balck85vette,

Actually Now that I watched the video again. It looks right. I think it is the was you are looking at it.


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## Deanofid (Nov 30, 2009)

Hooray! Man, you need a little air compressor, though. Yer gonna blow a gasket when you build a bigger engine.

Nice job. Nice runner!

Dean


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 30, 2009)

Nice engine!!!---but you're going to bust a gut running it that way!!! ;D ;D


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## bearcar1 (Nov 30, 2009)

S W E E T !!!!!!!!

BC1Jim


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## rake60 (Nov 30, 2009)

Beautiful Build! :bow:

Rick


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## Maryak (Dec 1, 2009)

Great Build. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 6, 2009)

I remember seeing the video while I was vacation. Didn't have a chance to reply then.

Nice flywheel.
Great job on the engine.
And running on lung power says a lot about the quality of work that went into it.

Congratulations.

But...where was the smile of satisfaction?


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## woodknack (Dec 6, 2009)

;D


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## woodknack (Dec 6, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> I remember seeing the video while I was vacation. Didn't have a chance to reply then.
> 
> Nice flywheel.
> Great job on the engine.
> ...



I am happy. BUT I think I can make it better and I want to make it better. Im just in the process of reorganizing my little shop (11x22) along with setting up my cnc milling machine. Also trying to learn a new software to run it (Mach3). Along with juggling my family and work life. AHHHHH. Does not seem like enough time in the day..  But I am slowly gaining and hopefully by January I will be able to sit down in the shop and finally get to making some more engines. I can hardly wait... ;D


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