# my start on a Kant Twist clamp set



## werowance (Jan 24, 2018)

decided I still need more practice before I can do a internal combustion engine so have been doing little projects to get some more experience.  here is my start on a pair of Kant Twist Clamps
 also some may remember me asking about metric threads the other day - this is the project I was working on that prompted me to ask.

the arms are made from old scrap computer case,  the threaded rod with tommy bar is made from scrap stainless steel pins from server cable management arms,  the frame pins that you peen over are just plain old cold roled and the clamp grip pads are brass.

the frame arms made from that old computer case - I had to throw it in the fireplace for a min or 2 just enough to burn off that paint or powder coat to get to bare metal,  it would not come off with just a wire brush on a grinder.  tough stuff.

the brass pads (not pictured yet) I already made a mistake.  there is a v groove down the center for holding round parts,  it is supposed to be perpendicular to the pin that holds the pad in place.  I cut it parralell.  while pouting about it I realized - hey feature or enhancement from the original drawings.  instead of 1 vgrove  why not 2 vgroves in a + pattern.  I was happy again....

anyway here are some photos


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## JCSteam (Jan 24, 2018)

I wanted to search for a couple of these to make or buy but i didnt know the name of them, where did you get the plans from and would you be able to get me a copy please? 

Nice work turning modern junk into something very useful&#55357;&#56832;


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## werowance (Jan 24, 2018)

I bought them from here:    http://switchandlever.com/store/kanttwist.html

I had trouble with the paypal link to work on his site so I emailed him directly and he gave me his email to pay him, I had the plans about 10 mins later.   they are all in metric and these are very tiny (I might be able to clamp my finger is how big).  but one valuable thing he includes is a cutout template that I just glued to my metal so I could cut out on band saw ,  center punch the drill holes and then sand on my belt sander.  made the jaws really easy to make.  I stacked all 4 steel blanks together and thread lock glued them together then glued the template on and bam,  they were made quickly.


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## werowance (Jan 24, 2018)

he also has some youtube videos of him making them.  1 dimension he leaves out in the plans is the thickness of the metal for the arms,  but he does mention it in the videos.  they are 1.5 mm thick if I remember correctly.  I had to adjust mine to fit the scrap metal I had on hand though.  so if you buy the plans do watch the videos for that 1 measurement.


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## werowance (Jan 24, 2018)

and here are some kind of plans I downloaded first when I was looking for free plans.  it may be enough for you to make them without buying. 

View attachment Kant Twist Clamp Assembly.pdf


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## JCSteam (Jan 24, 2018)

That's perfect thanks for those plans I can work with those. Will be swapping the thread out to a 3/8" BSF though if ive read the drawings right first time around just as I have the tap and die for that.  

Again many thanks for those.


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## werowance (Jan 25, 2018)

here is the brass grip pad that I messed up on and was going to make 2 vgroves in it,  but I even messed that up.  evidently I didn't have the vice 0'd or there was some swarf or something interfering with my indicator.  or I simply just screwed up I don't know.  but the second vgrove is not on center.

also the D bit I had made for something else used as an end mill did a nice job of cutting the grove.  I was impressed by that.  I had only used Dbits for reaming tapered holes.  who knew you could mill with them as well.  - that's something new I learned on this project.


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## werowance (Feb 1, 2018)

well, started on some new grip pads and had the same issue with the vgrove being off center.  wasted 2 of them before I finally figured out what was going wrong.  the rear of my mill vice is shifting when I clamp down.  this is a new to me Chinese vice I just got.  ive never really owned a milling vice until now.  I wonder if this is normal?   the third cut I made not pictured I compensated for the the shift and that grove was dead on (or close enough for me anyway).   here are some picutures of the dbit doing its vgrove cutting thing,  the off center 2nd set of grip pads and a pic of how my mill vice is made.  ill have to take it off and see if there are just lose bolts or something.


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## JCSteam (Feb 1, 2018)

The problems with your vise, it looks as it the key isn't completely square in the hole. I don't have one or never seen one up close but this may be the cause of your frustration?


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## werowance (Feb 2, 2018)

last night I pulled my vice,  and on the bottom side there are 2 shcs holding the rear jaw in place.  I tightened them both up one took about a half a turn and the other about 2/3 of a turn to snug them up.  I didn't put the grunt force tight on them either but did a pretty decent snug.  then squared the vice back up (which takes me for ever) and called it a night.  hopefully Ill get time to test again tonight and see if that took care of the problem.   snowing here like crazy.  wife will probably have honey do work like shovel snow or something when I get home...but maybe ill get a chance to play


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## werowance (Feb 6, 2018)

finally finished up one of them.  I ended up breaking off a m4 tap in the stainless steel.  had to wait until Monday to get another one.  I had some ferric chloride from etching circuit boards so I decided to plop that piece of stainless steel with the broken tap in it to see if it will eat it out or ruin it.  nothing really lost as its trash anyway if it doesn't.   but since I was making 2 clamps I already had another part made.  I fudged a little with the brass screw that holds the long m4 screw in place.  it was supposed to be m2,  but I had several 2-56 brass screws already so I used that instead.  

1 question,  on the long m4 clamp screw with tommy bar in it,  I had a terrible time cutting it down to size due to deflection.  my live center is just to large to support the end.  but even if it weren't the length would allow it to flex in the center due to its tiny diameter.  I don't have a follower either.   how would you all suggest cutting it on the next one?  I step cut it and extended it a little at a time from the chuck,  and then followed by lots of filling and emory cloth then the die hid the imprefections after that.  but I figure there has to be a easier better way.

anyway  here are the pictures of the finished clamp.


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## bazmak (Feb 6, 2018)

I have a stock of s/st allthread,its much simpler to use and make /fit the ends
My own view is to avoid single point screwcutting where you can use std commercial thread and save single point for larger/more rare threads where you have no alternative.My thoughts only because it is a slow time consuming job,not because i dislike doing it.


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## DJP (Feb 6, 2018)

That was a nice reuse of scrap material which is always satisfying. The next project is to make a larger set of clamps which I would find more useful when milling. That's when holding power makes the difference.

Thanks for sharing.


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## Herbiev (Feb 6, 2018)

Turned out great. Thanks for sharing


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## werowance (Feb 21, 2018)

well I finished up the second one.  on it what I thought was scrap stainless steel turned out to be some really easy cutting steel that came from a scrapped computer scanner.  it had the color of stainless with that nickel looking finish to it so I assumed without testing that it was.  first cut I knew it wasn't and tested with a magnet which stuck to it.  well as easily as it cut I used it anyway.  the finish was better than I get from CR steel. almost like cutting leaded or 12L14.  
this made it easier to cut the long screw and the deflection problem was almost none with it.

anyway here is a picture of the finished pair.  the bottom one is the new one with the easy cutting steel screw.   ill be sure to scavenge those rods when my company scraps the next copier of that model.


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## Cogsy (Feb 22, 2018)

The clamps look great. That steel you used may still be a grade of stainless. Magnetic properties are not the same for all stainless grades, some are not magnetic at all, some mildly and some quite magnetic. I have used some printer shafting that cuts and turns nicely, doesn't rust and is certainly magnetic, so you might be lucky.


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## bazmak (Feb 22, 2018)

For this sort of job its well the extra effort in machining stainless
so you can have nice shiny tools with no rusting problems
Very nice workmanship,but boy you are right the first pair are Small


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## JCSteam (Feb 22, 2018)

Very nice clamps nice work


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## chucketn (Feb 22, 2018)

Very nice work. I wonder if a pair made from plywood would be useable? Maybe there is an epoxy like finish I could use to strengthen it. I'm working on a MPCNC routing/engraving table, just about to install and wire the spindle...
Chuck


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## werowance (Feb 22, 2018)

theres a guy on the internet making them from plywood gives downloadable templates for the plywood version.  they are large, he is using for woodworking

https://ibuildit.ca/projects/wooden-kant-twist-clamp/


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## chucketn (Feb 22, 2018)

werowance said:


> theres a guy on the internet making them from plywood gives downloadable templates for the plywood version. they are large, he is using for woodworking
> 
> https://ibuildit.ca/projects/wooden-kant-twist-clamp/


 
Thanks, I'll check that out.


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## deverett (Feb 23, 2018)

chucketn said:


> Very nice work. I wonder if a pair made from plywood would be useable? Maybe there is an epoxy like finish I could use to strengthen it. I'm working on a MPCNC routing/engraving table, just about to install and wire the spindle...
> Chuck


Do a search on the WEST (Wood Epoxy Saturation Technique) system used in boat building.  If applicable, that'll give you all the strength enhancement.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## Wizard69 (Feb 26, 2018)

Ibuildit is a great site.  The guy running it is very innovative to say the least.  

As for the clamps themselves, they could be built out of anything.  Aluminum, or stainless sheet is possible and i suspect on could do the clamps out if fiberglass or carbon fiber.   The structure of the clamps is mechanically sound in most materials.  


werowance said:


> theres a guy on the internet making them from plywood gives downloadable templates for the plywood version.  they are large, he is using for woodworking
> 
> https://ibuildit.ca/projects/wooden-kant-twist-clamp/


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## werowance (Feb 28, 2018)

werowance said:


> I ended up breaking off a m4 tap in the stainless steel. had to wait until Monday to get another one. I had some ferric chloride from etching circuit boards so I decided to plop that piece of stainless steel with the broken tap in it to see if it will eat it out or ruin it.


 
so I never reportred back on ferric chloride vs stainless / broken tap.   reason being is I forgot about it and left it in the jar for about 3 weeks.  anyway last night I remembered and pulled it out, cleaned it up and in the hole it looked like the tap was still there with the 4 flutes of the tap still visable but it was black as tar.  so I grabed my center punch thinking I was going to punch it out,  to my surprise it was turned to mush.  the shape of the tap was still there but its consistency was like gum or playdough, it pushed right out in a goo.  the stainless part was discolored,  partially coated with copper (because it was used ferric chloride etching copper circuit boards).  but after wiping and rubbing for a bit it the copper came off and the stainless was sort of white looking.  then took a little fine steel wool to clean some more and the part shined back up like a polished piece of stainless it was to begin with.  didn't hurt the threads or damage the stainless steel at all and turned the hss tap into goo.  I was amazed that the shape of the goo was still in the shape of the tap but just touching it with the punch and it just oozed out the other end.  

wonder if this stuff will eat aluminum?  I know it will copper so I assume brass to and I know it will eat regular steel and hss now as well.

to bad my cross drill in the part was so off center to begin with that now I figured out the problem with my vice moving that I will trash the part anyway.


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## Wizard69 (Feb 28, 2018)

Sounds like something i would do.   That is set something on the shelf and forget about it for 3 weeks.  

As for the goo probably not everything was attackable by the etching solution.   In any event im glad it worked for you, i will need to keep this idea in the back of my mind.


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