# Building my "Radford Red Deere" Finished w/ Video



## Metal Butcher (May 3, 2009)

During the course of building my last engine I became interested in cfellows John Deere engine. Radfordc expressed a great amount of interest as well. With build information provided by cfellows, he set out to build his own version and provided us with detailed drawings. We should all be grateful to radfordc, for the time and effort he spent producing a first class set of drawings that a beginner, like me, can follow.

I decided to name my version the Radford Red Deere since I will be using the plans he provided as a basis for my build. You may have noticed that most of my recent engines have been painted a greenish color. I think Im done with that color! Brace yourself for the onslaught of red colored engines! Im amazed at how many engines I was actually able to build using only one can of spray paint!

Since machining crankshafts is my Achilles' heel of engine building, I decided to get it out the way by making it first. In my pursuit of different methods for producing crankshafts, I decided to make one up from separate pieces assembled with Loc-tite and pinning. The central shaft was cut out between the webs after the pinning was completed, this assured a straight crankshaft. After a bit of filing and sanding it was parkerized. As you can see in the photo, the pins and shafts did not accept the parkerizing (as expected) since they were made from stainless steel. 

Below is a photo of the finished crankshaft, Im off and running.







Link to cfellows John Deere design, plans drawn and provided by radfordc: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4940.0

-MB


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## radfordc (May 3, 2009)

Rick, I certainly don't deserve any credit for the design...all I did was "reverse engineer" Chuck's engine from the pictures, drawings, and notes in his original thread.

I made a couple of fixes to the plans. 
1. The valve drawing should have specified 3/8" OD o-rings....not 1/2". 
2. I fixed the crank drawing with a couple of changes. First, I added the 1/8" stub on the end of the crank to accept the pinon gear. Second, the crank as it was drawn may be hard to insert into the crankcase. The hole in the end of the case is 1.140 and the crank is 1.145 wide. I trimmed the unneeded "arms" off the crank at each end. Makes it easy to insert with just a little jiggleing.

Charlie


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## rudydubya (May 3, 2009)

Nice work MB, I like the approach you've taken for the crankshaft. My one and only crankshaft so far has been for my Upshur, turned out of a single piece of bar stock. After that experience, I'm ready to try a new technique for my next one.

Rudy


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## Metal Butcher (May 3, 2009)

rudydubya  said:
			
		

> Nice work MB, I like the approach you've taken for the crankshaft. My one and only crankshaft so far has been for my Upshur, turned out of a single piece of bar stock. After that experience, I'm ready to try a new technique for my next one.
> 
> Rudy



Thanks Rudy. A lot of the published model engineers have used and advocated this method. Its a neat and quick way to archive an accurate crank. I drilled and reamed all three webs in one set up by stacking them in a mill vise. I marked two sides on each piece to assure assembly in the same position. The assembly was done on a flat tool plate. If the webs were profiled a simple 3 sided u shaped jig would do the trick during assembly and drilling for dowel or expansion pins. The pieces were loc-tited one web at a time with all rods in place throughout the process. Spacing was done carefully, and each joint allowed to set up a bit before proceeding to the next joint. The following morning I mounted the tool plate in the mill and drilled through for the 1/16" dowel pins and pressed them in with loc-tite. The tricky part is cutting out the extra rod material without scaring up the webs. I could have stayed a little further away with the hack saw and finished up with a small end mill, or file. A single throw crank would probably be a "walk in the park."

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (May 3, 2009)

radfordc  said:
			
		

> Rick, I certainly don't deserve any credit for the design...all I did was "reverse engineer" Chuck's engine from the pictures, drawings, and notes in his original thread.
> 
> I made a couple of fixes to the plans.
> 1. The valve drawing should have specified 3/8" OD o-rings....not 1/2".
> ...



I understand what you are saying about The "John Deere" being Chucks (cfellows) design. I should have been clearer on that point. And I apologize to Chuck for my oversight in not giving him credit for being the original designer. I thought I did in my first post.
And I also feel that you deserve credit for your hardwork and needed know-how to produce the drawings that will guide my build along with others. Call it reverse engineering or what ever you like.

And I'll get the full credit for driving every one nuts after they see it painted red! What!, a red JD?

My crank throws are 1.250" long, and I knew the box opening was 1.140". A self inflicted challenge that I can't wait to overcome! Got aspirin?

-Mb


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## cfellows (May 4, 2009)

Not to worry about who get's credit for my design. I'm just gratified to see so much interest in the engine and I'm equally grateful to Charlie for the nice drawings so others can build it.

MB, I can't believe you are making a red model!  Back in the 1950's, Farmall tractors were the chief competitor of John Deere. And guess what color Farmall's were? 

http://www.walnutacresfarm.com/images/Farmall%20H%20After.jpg

Just kidding, of course. A red JD engine would be nice looking, however unusual!

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (May 4, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Not to worry about who get's credit for my design. I'm just gratified to see so much interest in the engine and I'm equally grateful to Charlie for the nice drawings so others can build it.
> 
> MB, I can't believe you are making a red model!  Back in the 1950's, Farmall tractors were the chief competitor of John Deere. And guess what color Farmall's were?
> 
> ...



Oh no! I'm confused again!!!! Farm tractors? Farm All? 

I thought I was building a 2 cylinder stationary engine and "John Deere" look alike????

I have never been on a farm. I watched the TV series called "Green Acres" but it didn't teach me anything about John Deere or Farm All, and especially farming!

I looked on the internet and only found single cylinder JDs' with a square water box above the single cylinder, furthering my confusion!

I need to take two aspirins and lay down for awhile. :-X

-mb


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## cfellows (May 4, 2009)

While John Deere did make a one cylinder, hit n miss stationary engine like this:

http://www.stationaryengine.org/Rallies%202005/Woolpit/john_deere_woolpit_2005.jpg

my engine design is from the old two cylinder tractors. The engine was positioned horizontally, with the flywheel and the cranshaft toward the rear of the tractor and the cylinders pointing toward the front of the tractor. The crankshaft throws were 180 degrees apart to reduce the vibration. One of the selling features of the old John Deeres was the fact that you could ride them in the field all day without being worn out by the vibration.

Here you can see a model of an old John Deere tractor somewhat torn down:

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/images/KiefferDeere3.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Kieffer1.htm&usg=__2VbBwyBdgoBOvW-BdFTSC71zLnc=&h=683&w=800&sz=132&hl=en&start=120&tbnid=P-2tmctfgFTYfM:&tbnh=122&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Djohn%2Bdeere%2Bd%2Bengine%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D108

Chuck


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## cfellows (May 4, 2009)

Here is a picture of an old John Deere tractor engine which as been removed and converted to a stationary engine. Actually, the tractor was removed from the engine! This is a two cylinder engine, you can only see the cylinder in front.






I had considered including the radiator, gas tank, and other fittings like this in my model, and may still do so at some point.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (May 4, 2009)

Chuck. The photo of Jerry Kieffer's 1/8 scale shows a flywheel very similar to the one you used.

Is that style the one they normally used, or was it used only for a short period. Is there a reason for JD using the slot between two holes crossing the central shaft bore? 

How did you make yours? Meaning the slot.

Part of the theme song from the TV series "Green acres".

"Green acres is the place to be. Farm living is the life for me. Land speadin out so far and wide. Keep Manhattan, just give me that countryside."- Oliver Wendell Douglas 

-MB


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## cfellows (May 4, 2009)

The flywheel on my model is the standard that was used from the 1930's thru the 1950's. On the full size tractors, there were two bolts in the back of the flywheel, on either side of the crankshaft, that went across the slots and tightened the flywheel onto the shaft. The slot and two holes on either end provided just enough give for the bolts to pull the slot slightly together on the splined crankshaft.

On my model, I just used a split collar to hold the flywheel on. The slot and holes on my model are cosmetic to make it look like the real thing.


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## Metal Butcher (May 5, 2009)

1) Today I started on the crankcase and cylinder blocks. A block of 6061 aluminum was clamped into my 4" x 6" band saw and rough cut about .050" over the final dimensions.








2) I cut both the crank case and cylinder block from one large piece of aluminum. The photo shows the pieces rough cut. Then they were face milled to - .000'' + .002'' of the plan dimensions using my mill/drill. 








3) The crank case block was hollowed out using a 1/2" regular length center cutting end mill. Once I got past the length of the cutting edges (flutes) it was necessary to stay further away from the scribed lines. After about 1 hour of eye balling and hand cranking, the cavity was roughed out.

If you decide to build your own engine I recommend considering the use of 2" X 2" x 2-3/8" long aluminum tube either 3/16" or 1/4" wall thickness. This will reduce the tedious (I'm whipped) boring and milling required by the use of a solid piece of material. 








4)The final cuts were very light using a 2" long flute 5/16" hi-helix end mill. One wall ended up at .187", two are .002" over, one .003'' over, and the front wall .006'' over. Not exactly precision work.. but since it was an eye ball job, that's not too bad and it will have to do. The large internal variances shouldn't matter. 








As a precautionary measure to protect my sanity, all guests will be required to check (leave) all measuring instruments, including but not limited to, dial calipers, micrometers, rulers, measuring devises of any-and-all types at the door before entering the premises! No exceptions! :big:

-MB ;D


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## RobWilson (May 5, 2009)

Great finish on the inside of the crankcase MB 
Rob


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## Metal Butcher (May 5, 2009)

RobWilson  said:
			
		

> Great finish on the inside of the crankcase MB
> Rob



Thanks Rob! I believe that the high-helix end mills give a much better finish than a standard end mill on aluminum. High helix drills also seem to work better in aluminum by removing chips more efficiently and leaving a better finish.

Edit: The correct industry terminology for the drills (I call them high helix) is FAST SPIRAL.
 On the end mill I said HIGH HELIX and that was the correct terminology.
-MB


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## radfordc (May 5, 2009)

Nice job! There's another thing I forgot to tell you. You need to mill a clearance inside the crankcase for the connecting rod big ends. It doesn't take much...probably only .050 or so. The clearance needs to be in the bottom of the crankcase, approximately 3/8" to 1/2" down from the open end. Here is how I did it...I'm embarrassed at the quality of my work...looks like I machined it with a chain saw.

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (May 5, 2009)

Charlie your work looks good to me, inside a case doesn't matter, thanks for the heads up on the needed piston rod clearance.

Did you notice the larger (longer) length webs on the crank I made?

I might be in serious trouble with that being a bigger clearance issue! Seems it won't fit into the crank case! From end to end (corner to corner) the webs are 1.308"!

Chain saw, grinder, axe, meat cleaver, this is where the "butcher" in me shines! :big:

"I'll just trim off the fat," said the butcher as he sharpened his knife.

-MB


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## cfellows (May 5, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> If you decide to build your own engine I recommend considering the use of 2" X 2" x 2-3/8" long aluminum tube either 3/16" or 1/4" wall thickness. This will reduce the tedious (I'm whipped) boring and milling required by the use of a solid piece of material.



MB,

When I built my JD engine, I used 2" x 2" Square Steel Tubing. I used steel, because I had it, and so I could silver solder the end plates on. Unfortunately, the stock I had on hand was only .065" thick, so I had to silver solder a 1/8" plate on one side for the cylinder block to bolt to.






Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (May 5, 2009)

Chuck, I also used the material I had on hand. It only makes sense, since ordering new materials is a very expensive proposition. But, for those that must order materials for a build like this the square aluminum is a reasonably priced choice.
Seems to me that the aluminum tube idea would eliminate brazing and building up the wall thickness when steel tube is used, and also eliminate a lot of machining and boring needed for a crank case machined from solid material
The square aluminum tube would need to be shorter than 2-3/8" since 3/16" (or 1/4") side plates would make up the difference. The side plates would be bolted on in the four corners and bored for the crank and cam bearings. This would also eliminate the need for the large bores that accommodate the original round side covers housing the bearings, and also the round side covers them selves. This would greatly simplify and speed up construction time for beginners like me.

The only draw back I see at this point is the style of the engine might suffer from the additional simplicity.

-MB


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## radfordc (May 7, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> 3) The crank case block was hollowed out using a 1/2" regular length center cutting end mill. Once I got past the length of the cutting edges (flutes) it was necessary to stay further away from the scribed lines. After about 1 hour of eye balling and hand cranking, the cavity was roughed out.
> 
> If you decide to build your own engine I recommend considering the use of 2" X 2" x 2-3/8" long aluminum tube either 3/16" or 1/4" wall thickness. This will reduce the tedious (I'm whipped) boring and milling required by the use of a solid piece of material.
> 
> ...




The trick is to remove as much material as possible by drilling before starting to mill. I drilled as many 1/2" holes as I could fit into the block of aluminum to be removed. It still looked like an aluminum snow storm hit the shop.

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (May 7, 2009)

The drilling would save time. I decided against it based or my uncanny ability to bury drill bits that size.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4402.0

When I look at that picture It makes me laugh!

Charlie, have you ever used a roughing end mill?

Can I assume they remove material faster?

Yesterday I bought a 2 lb. coffee can full of 1/2" M-42 tin-coated double-end 2 flute end mills and there were 6pcs of 3/4" tin coated M-42 roughing end mills in the bottom of the can. Since the milling on the c-case was finished It was too late to try one out.

-MB


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## radfordc (May 7, 2009)

I think you will have a tougher time sticking a drill in aluminum than brass. When you hear the squeal in brass you about to be in trouble.

I have used roughing mills and they do cut fast.

Charlie


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## Maryak (May 8, 2009)

MB,

There are many roads to home and the journey is as much fun as the finish. 

Enjoy the journey, it's looking like a nice trip from here. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Metal Butcher (May 8, 2009)

1) Starting out on the funny side: "Honey" came down last night and commented on the "romantic lighting" in my shop? She seemed to want something to do, so I suggested she grab the broom and have at it. It's best I don't repeat what she said next! After 35 years of marriage she has communication down to a science that requires only a few choice words.  

Needless to say, I got a lot more done yesterday than I thought would be possible! The sides of the crank case were bored out to 1.140" to accommodate the side covers.









2) The cylinders were bored out and the stepped details were milled using a 1/2" end mill.








3) I used a simple plate with a 45 degree v-cut to position the block for milling the side clearance for it's hold down screws. It was a little tricky to get the screws in for a test fitting. A hex wrench with a ball-end worked after getting them started with two fingers.








4) I decided to add a cover on the back end of the crank case. The photo below shows the case being tapped. I decided to use 4-40 screws and located the screw holes .130" from all sides. This spacing was also used on the cylinder and head mounting points. Not sure, but it looks like the original spacing shown in Charlie's drawings is for 2-56 assembly screws. 








5) I milled out the bottom area of the crank case .050" as suggested by Charlie for additional clearance for the crank end of the connecting rods. You can see the penciled in changes for the use of 4-40 screws. You can see the added double key hole to the side of the crank case. This was my solution to clear the oversize crank I created by making it a build up of separate pieces. The crank case needs to be drilled and tapped for the side covers. I feel it's best to machine them first for a test fit, just to be sure of the screw hole locations. This build is coming along a little faster than I expected due to the rainy weather outside.











-MB


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## itowbig (May 9, 2009)

beautiful man thanks for showing all thegreat pics and how toos.  :bow: i really like how everybody shows how they did this "N" that. ans all the wonderful models its just great being here. THANK YOU :bow:


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## Metal Butcher (May 11, 2009)

#1 Heres a few pictures of the parts I made over the past few days. The picture below shows an aluminum block being planned down to dimension. I used a different approach and did most of the machine work, for both rods, on one block of material.








#2 I center drilled, tap drilled, clearance drilled, and tapped both piston rod ends on one block from both sides. These will become the rod cap ends.








#3 I numbered both sides with a metal stamp, in two areas that will become the crank end of the piston rods. 








#4 The cap end was cut off as one piece in the band-saw, then the saw-cut cap end and rod end were both milled flat.








#5 With the cap end installed, the block was split lengthwise, in the band-saw. 








#6 The cut sides were milled flat and down to the proper dimension. 








#7 All four sides of the piston rods were milled down to clear the piston and cylinder skirts. The rod ends will be left plain since they will be inside the crankcase and not visible. The picture shows them in a rough state, the edges will be rounded and the machine marks will be removed. The pistons were turned down from brass bar stock, stepped out using two different sized end mills and then cut-off. They were cross drilled centrally using a milling machine.








#8 The side covers were turned on a lathe. They were drilled in the mill, along with the crank case block that was tapped. The precise movements of the calibrated hand wheels were used to locate them. This side cover was machined flat to create the area for the gear train.








#9 The flywheel side was machined with a bit of a sculptured look that blends into the longer bushing used on this side.








#10 The bronze bushings are used to center the crank shaft. On the flywheel side the bushing is 5/8 long, and on the gear side, that was milled down flat, its just under 1/2 long. I wanted to create as much of a support area as I could for the crank shaft since Im not using ball-bearings. 






-MB


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## Metal Butcher (May 13, 2009)

Today I cut and faced the block of aluminum that will become the cylinder head. I'm looking for a simple way to drill and ream all of the holes shown in the drawings. 
The valve body and exhaust holes are shown with flat bottoms. how can this be accomplished. Boring with a single point tool is out. I have a few flat bottom drills, but non are the correct under size needed for reaming. The flat drills I have are not factory sharpened. 

The holes in question will be .375" and .1875".

What do you do in a situation like this?

-MB


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## radfordc (May 13, 2009)

The 3/16" hole for the ball bearing I just drilled...doesn't have to be flat bottomed. I used a 3/8" two flute end mill to do the valve body holes.

BTW, I just remembered another "oops" on the drawings. The holes in the crankcase that the rods pass through have to be relieved to allow the rods to move properly. I used a 3/8" end mill and opened the top and bottom of the holes as needed.

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (May 13, 2009)

radfordc  said:
			
		

> The 3/16" hole for the ball bearing I just drilled...doesn't have to be flat bottomed. I used a 3/8" two flute end mill to do the valve body holes.
> 
> BTW, I just remembered another "oops" on the drawings. The holes in the crankcase that the rods pass through have to be relieved to allow the rods to move properly. I used a 3/8" end mill and opened the top and bottom of the holes as needed.
> 
> Charlie



If you mean the 3/4 holes for the piston rods (not push rods) I egged them open by moving the 3/4 end mill .100" off center (up & down) just to be on the safe side. I also found the piston rods on the crank shaft end (big end) were obstructed even though I milled an area .050" deep at the inside bottom. I cut a bigger area completely out to avoid any more problems. The access to the piston rods and the rod end caps is much- much easier now.

I'm thinking about replacing the exhaust ball (ball bearing) with a 3/16" x 1/4" long stainless steel piston. I think it might seal a little better. Worth a try any way.

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (May 16, 2009)

1) As I mentioned in the previous post, the bottom of the crank case was milled out for additional clearance and easier access to the connecting rod caps. The crank case is shown upside-down in the photo below.








2) After milling the cylinder head to exact dimensions, the four mounting recesses were milled out on the corners. After the fifteen holes were drilled, the two exhaust and two valve holes were reamed to size. Six more holes will be drilled and tapped later to hold the valve bodies in place. I included the .016 exhaust valve springs, the 3/16 ball bearings, and the 3/16 brass exhaust pistons in the photo. As an experiment I will try the ball bearings and also the brass pistons to see which will work the best.








3) The intake and exhaust manifolds were machined from copper. On a previous post I was warned of the health hazards associated with machining unknown copper alloy, so as a precaution I wore a particle mask and used cutting fluid to minimize air born particles. I used a little creative plumbing on the intake manifold. On the exhaust manifold I added some profiles and slash-cut the tips of the pipes. Both manifolds were assembled using JB-weld and Loc-tite.








4) The photo below shows how the cylinder assembly currently looks.








5) This last photo shows how I will control the air flow needed to balance out the cylinders. On both sides of the copper intake manifold there are protruding 5-40 set screws that intersect and block the airflow. They are shown in their full flow open position (4 threads exposed). When they are screwed in with one thread below the surface the airflow is cut off. Minor adjustments will be made during the initial testing to achieve a balanced sound from both cylinders. After their location is established a little RTV silicone gasket compound will be used to seal them. 






-MB


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## radfordc (May 16, 2009)

That looks nice. Where did the intake manifold casting come from?

Charlie


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## itowbig (May 16, 2009)

simply beautiful. its coming right along


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## Metal Butcher (May 16, 2009)

radfordc  said:
			
		

> That looks nice. Where did the intake manifold casting come from?
> 
> Charlie



Thanks Charlie. I used 3/16" bronze pipe fittings that I purchased from PM Research. There available as combination shapes, and individual shape trees that need machining. You can also buy all ready machined individual shapes, elbows, tees, unions, etc. They are really well made castings at a very reasonable price. They also sell casting kits and flywheels. On my version of "Chucks single" I used their fly wheel castings. Check out the link I provided

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/home.php?cat=39


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## Metal Butcher (May 16, 2009)

itowbig  said:
			
		

> simply beautiful. its coming right along



Thanks itowbig. Its been a very, very, slow build. Last spring I stopped my machining hobby until November of last fall. This year I'm trying to keep the hobby alive, but with a limited involvement due to my other out door hobbies. I remember it being tough to restart after being away from it for 8 months. With my involvement on this forum the hobby seems to have become some sort of an addiction. Dropping out cold turkey till the fall seems to be out of the question!

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4707.0

-MB


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## Maryak (May 16, 2009)

MB,

Beautiful, :bow: slow is good too ;D

Best Regards
Bob


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## radfordc (May 16, 2009)

I know what you mean about having more hobbies than time! My year seems to have a "cycle" of sorts. Winter/spring is when I spend more time in the shop working on projects. Summer/fall is mostly flying, and fall/winter is duck hunting. If I take up any more hobbies I will have to quit work....now that's an idea!!

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (May 16, 2009)

I quit going to work (retired) about 7 years ago. This winter I spent more hours per week down in my shop building (more like trying to figure out how to build) These small steam/air motors than I ever put in at my job. Going to work 9 to 5 was a lot easier! Making my old employer happy was easy. My new "boss" always want's more, better quality work, with no praise, no bonuses, no raise, no benefits, no pay at all! Even bathroom breaks are frowned upon and timed. Lunch is, eat as fast as you can and get your butt back to work. All he really offers is plenty of room for advancement. I have heard other retirees with hobbies say they don't know how they ever had the time to go to work. Now I understand what they were talking about. Hobby guys like us really don't have much use for work besides the obvious $. I don't think I could ever go back!

Not that I want to, mind you! :big:

-MB


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## Maryak (May 16, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> I quit going to work (retired) about 7 years ago. This winter I spent more hours per week down in my shop building (more like trying to figure out how to build) These small steam/air motors than I ever put in at my job. Going to work 9 to 5 was a lot easier! Making my old employer happy was easy. My new "boss" always want's more, better quality work, with no praise, no bonuses, no raise, no benefits, no pay at all! Even bathroom breaks are frowned upon and timed. Lunch is, eat as fast as you can and get your butt back to work. All he really offers is plenty of room for advancement. I have heard other retirees with hobbies say they don't know how they ever had the time to go to work. Now I understand what they were talking about. Hobby guys like us really don't have much use for work besides the obvious $. I don't think I could ever go back!
> 
> Not that I want to, mind you! :big:
> 
> -MB



A man after my own heart. :bow: :bow: :bow: Although its only been 18 months for me.

Best Regards
Bob


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## rudydubya (May 17, 2009)

Really nice work, MB. Beauty in every piece. And great photography. Did you use any special lighting? And did you make your exhaust springs?

Rudy


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## Metal Butcher (May 17, 2009)

rudydubya  said:
			
		

> Really nice work, MB. Beauty in every piece. And great photography. Did you use any special lighting? And did you make your exhaust springs?
> 
> Rudy



Thanks Rudy. Nothing special about the lighting. The photos were taken down in the basement right on my workbench. I placed the parts on the plans to have a clean background. There is a 100W bulb above, and a 22W florescent in my magnifier off to one side. If there's just enough light reflected back at the camera the flash does not go off and gives a darker yellow tinted look to the photo. Most of the time the flash goes off and the picture is bright and has a white tint. Those look the best. My camera is an inexpensive Lumix digital 7.2 pixel. I just point and shoot in macro mode for these types of closeups.
The springs I use are normally bought in 10 packs from Enco. The particular ones in the photo were in my scrap box of springs. The equivalent is Enco 240-0556, .016 wire, .500 long, fits in a 3/16" hole. I just double checked and this is the exact measurement of the ones in the photo, and the ones I'll be using.

-MB


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## kvom (May 17, 2009)

I recently passed my 4th anniversary of retirement. The first three years I did a fair amount of travelling, plus some home remodelling. My other main hobby was offroading, and I did a lot of work on my Jeep, acquiring mechanics tools and various automotive knowledge. Only about a year ago did I get an interest in machining.

Having had a lot of other hobbies in the past I am wary of buring out, and generally limit my shop time to half a day at a time. I have to keep telling myself not to be in a hurry to finish any particular part.


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## Metal Butcher (May 17, 2009)

kvom  said:
			
		

> Having had a lot of other hobbies in the past I am wary of buring out, and generally limit my shop time to half a day at a time. I have to keep telling myself not to be in a hurry to finish any particular part.



Know what you mean!I got burned out a few times over the winter. I was having some sort of insane imaginary contest to see how many motors could be built before April 1st. It was a mad house of broken tooling and a scrap pile that any one would be proud of! I managed to survive the ordeal and learn from it.

With my rookie year behind me I eased up the self inflicted pressure and slowed down quite a bit. This new approach is working well and allowing plenty of time for my spring and summer hobbies.

BTW I got into off road ATV riding last year. I manage keep up with the young pups! They refer to me as that "crazy old guy". I feel honored!

-MB


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## cfellows (May 17, 2009)

Going the extra distance is going to make this a fine looking engine. I particularly like the intake manifold - adds to the realism.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (May 18, 2009)

1) I machined the two valve bodies from 360 brass. They were easy, strait-forward turnings done on the lathe. Earlier on in the build I changed the bolt locations on the cylinder and its head to accommodate the 4-40 screws I'll be using. These changes made it necessary to use a smaller 5/8 flange diameter and a smaller bolt pattern on the valve bodies. During the changes I decided that 2 screws in a vertical line would match the 2 and 4 bolt patterns used on the rest of the motor.









2) The valve stems were built up from two separate pieces of stainless steel pressed together along with Loc-tite. I machined two brass spring keepers instead of using plain washers. The 3/32" E-clips are Enco #325-2834 and the .240" dia x .020" wire x .500" long valve springs are Enco #240-0567. The O-rings are buna-n-70 1/4" x 3/8" x 1/16" industry standard #01-010.








3) The picture below shows one of the valves assembled for test fitting. The brass spring keeper below the E-clip is .240" in diameter with a 3/32" central hole. I stepped it down to .1875" x .020 long to fit inside the spring and keep it centered on the valve stem. 








4) During the test installations of the valve assemblies, four O-rings were severely damaged. They are getting cut by the knife like edge shape created in the valve body bore by the angular intersection of the exhaust valve bore. De-burring and polishing these edges didn't eliminate the problem. It seems that the only solution is to install a sculptured filler rod down in the exhaust bore to block out the O-rings as they pass this intersection during assembly.






-MB


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## cfellows (May 18, 2009)

Lookin better and better, MB!

Those o-rings can be boogers to get in without damaging them. 

Chuck


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## radfordc (May 18, 2009)

You only need to cut up a couple more o-rings and you will be even with me!

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (Oct 19, 2009)

1) Hi to all the wonderfull members of HMEH. It's good to be back! With summer gone its time to get back down to the shop and pick up where I left off at the beginning of summer. The completed parts of this engine build were found on my bench just the way I left them. After a little head scratching I picked up where I left off.

I machined (end milled) the cam as one piece in the MD using a 5C spin fixture. This made the 90 degree offset simple and accurate. Moved the work to the lathe to drill and ream the 1/8" hole for its shaft before parting it off. 








2) The cam was attached with loc-tite to its shaft.







3) the complete camshaft assembly showing the bushings that will go through the crankcase. The gear and E-clip will keep it centered in position. 







4) The intermediate (center) gear is a running fit held in place with an E-clip on the 1/8" shaft. With the other two gears mounted I used the gear held in place to locate the shaft center line using a pointed edge finder in the gear shaft hole.







5) All three gears installed for a test fit. The gear fit seems right on, with smooth mesh.
This was a big concern for me.

An old friend used to say "99% of the things you worry about already happened, or never will"








Summer was a lot of fun, but it's no substitute for the time I enjoy in my shop.

It's good to be back!
-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 19, 2009)

Huh? You were gone? :big: Sorry. ;D

I'm a little lost. (Don't say it!). I did a quick run through the thread...but didn't see anything about the gears (I might have missed it)...they look really good. Did you make them?

How about a quick 'when last we left our hero' so I can catch up?


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## Metal Butcher (Oct 19, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Huh? You were gone? :big: Sorry. ;D
> 
> I'm a little lost. (Don't say it!). I did a quick run through the thread...but didn't see anything about the gears (I might have missed it)...they look really good. Did you make them?
> 
> How about a quick 'when last we left our hero' so I can catch up?



The gears are Robinson Racing. Charlie Radford (radfordc) provides the part numbers in the plans he drew up based on cfellows original design and thread - "Chuck's John Deere."

The plans are in "file repository": 

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?action=tpmod;dl=item191

Heres a link to when I left for the summer.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4707.0


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## radfordc (Oct 19, 2009)

Well, look who's back. Like you I've been out of the shop for a long time. Too much time playing with the plane, riding the Shadow, etc. Also trips to England, Ireland, Iceland, and Korea. Now it's almost duck season so the machines will have to wait till after that.

Charlie


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 19, 2009)

Wow. Thanks for that MB. You were taking a vacation just as I was joining.
Thanks very much for the link. Very nice work there.


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## Metal Butcher (Oct 19, 2009)

radfordc  said:
			
		

> Well, look who's back. Like you I've been out of the shop for a long time. Too much time playing with the plane, riding the Shadow, etc. Also trips to England, Ireland, Iceland, and Korea. Now it's almost duck season so the machines will have to wait till after that.
> 
> Charlie



While you go for that duck I'll try and finish up this leftover build.

Shadow! Nice weather Thusday I might uncover the Yami!

Your corrupting me. :big:

-MB


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## Maryak (Oct 20, 2009)

MB,

Welcome back and with great trepidation...........................What's a YAMI ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## gmac (Oct 20, 2009)

Motorcyclist speak for Yamaha - similar to my Kawi - Kawasaki... ;D

Garry


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## cfellows (Oct 20, 2009)

Welcome back, MB. Always nice to see your posts and pictures.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Oct 25, 2009)

I machined the rockers, their mounting block, the supporting feet and wood bases. An attempt at a test run proved to be a disaster! The motor refused to run! I discovered the previously mounted crank and cam gears were reversed (see previous post and picture). After correcting my memory mishap the engine was painted and assembled. The motor runs well with 15 to 25 lbs of air pressure. With air pressure above or below it stalls out. Most of my motors run well with 1 to 2 lbs air pressure leaving me somewhat disappointed with this build. The motor has been apart so many times in the last few days that the paint is beginning to chip and wearing off. Rather than dwelling on where I made my mistake(s) its been shelved for display. I guess it could be worse. It does run! Its time to move on and plan the first project of the up coming build season that starts for me on Nov. 1st. 

Below are the final pictures of the assembled motor. 

-MB






























-MB


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## cfellows (Oct 25, 2009)

Beautiful workmanship, as always. Don't be disappointed with the pressure it requires. All my engine designs that use the spring loaded, slave exhaust valve require more pressure to run. That's because of the pressure required to displace the spring loaded exhaust valve. It also makes the exhaust note louder (and more pleasing).

The fact that it stalls at higher pressure makes me think that your cam dwell is too long or perhaps the timing is too slow. The inlet valve needs to close well before bottom dead center to give the exhause valve time to return to it's home position. Stronger slave valve springs would probably also correct that problem, but then it would require more pressure to get it going. It could also be that you have a leak around the inlet valve assemblies. This would also tend to keep the exhaust valves closed too long.

I prefer that my engines tick over at a nice, slow but steady idle. The full sized John Deere tractor engines after which this engine is modeled had a top RPM of around 1,000 - 1,200, depending on the model.

Chuck


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## Bill Mc (Oct 26, 2009)

Hi Metal Butcher - It was worth the wait. Your engine has turned out beautifully. The Completed photos are equally nice. Congratulations. I think you have a chance for 'Project Of The Month'.


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 26, 2009)

It's a beautful engine.
Shelved for display?!
Any chance of a video of it running?


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## Metal Butcher (Oct 26, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> It's a beautful engine.
> Shelved for display?!
> Any chance of a video of it running?



I'll see if I can get some help with that video you requested.

Not a promise, but I will do my best.

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Oct 26, 2009)

Below is a short video of my running "Radford Red Deere." The first part of the video, the motor is running at about 20 PSI, and then increased to about 25 PSI.

[youtube=425,350]YG1ALeuTxZc[/youtube]

-MB


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## Deanofid (Oct 26, 2009)

Shoot man.. I don't know what you were concerned about, MB. This little beauty runs great! Looks fabulous too. First rate, from what I see in the pics. And thanks for the video!

Dean


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## cfellows (Oct 26, 2009)

Perfect! Don't think you could ask for better.

Chuck


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## radfordc (Oct 26, 2009)

Ya' done good! ;D

Charlie


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 26, 2009)

Thank you!
I can't say why...but I really wanted to see those gears on the side turn.
I love the sound of these engines running.
Thanks again for the post.


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## rake60 (Oct 26, 2009)

Beautiful engine MB! :bow:

Rick


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## lathe nut (Oct 26, 2009)

you have something to be proud not only the finished product but how it was made that is neat, thanks for showing the progress, I appreciate what you have done for us in sharing, Lathe Nut


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## putputman (Oct 27, 2009)

Nice engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just love that slow J D sound


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## cfellows (Oct 27, 2009)

I've mentioned this before, but will bring it up again.

The syncopated beat of this engine, which sounds so neat, is because the engine "fires" twice in one revolution then skips one entire revolution. This makes equalizing the air pressure to both cylinders very difficult.

The amount of air pressure that builds up in the line is greater during the skipped revolution than between the two firings. This results in one cylinder hitting "harder" than the second. You can mitigate this affect somewhat by adjusting the lead cylinder rocker arm clearance to a thicker setting so the valve doesn't open as far or stay open as long.

From the video, it kind of looks like you may have already done this.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Oct 27, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> I've mentioned this before, but will bring it up again.
> 
> The syncopated beat of this engine, which sounds so neat, is because the engine "fires" twice in one revolution then skips one entire revolution. This makes equalizing the air pressure to both cylinders very difficult.
> 
> ...



Chuck, you are correct and I agree. I did a little fiddling and adjusting last night. The length of the valve opening (firing) on the first cylinder is reduced using the adjusting screw on the rocker, and the length (firing) on the second cylinder was increased. 

It now runs dead slow on 7 to 8 lbs (pressure gauge bounce) , and faster than before on 35 lbs air. A big improvement over the video run. The previous range was 15 lbs to 25 lbs. Unlike the "single" there is more friction during free wheeling due to the twin cylinder and double crank. And having a larger bore and stroke than many of my previous builds requiring a higher running pressure for the JD. 

I'm feeling much better about the way this build turned out. It's defiantly a welcome and interesting addition to my collection! ;D

By focusing on one part at a time it was not at all that difficult to build. 

Thanks for all the help Chuck. :bow:

-MB


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