# Corliss Steam Engine (Coles Power Models)



## ZAPJACK (May 11, 2020)

Dear all,
After my third tractor, I will start THE great Corliss Steam Engine from Coles Power Models.
For and Continental old European guy, it's double complicate
Because I'm thinking in metric decimal. So the translation from fraction imperial size is not always easy.
The quality of iron castings can be better....
So pictures spoke from themselves.
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK (May 13, 2020)

Next steps the flywheel
LZ


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## Gordo (May 14, 2020)

I like your build so far.
I was always impressed with the big Corliss steam engines, when I was a kid my dad made me get a job at the lumber company he worked for and they had a Corliss in the boiler room that had not been run since the 40's. They used it for making electricity for the plant and on weekends they sold power to the local electric company . I used to sneak in there to get a drink of water from a Artisan well that was coming out of the ground.


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## kuhncw (May 14, 2020)

LeZap,

That's very nice work on your Corliss.  Thanks for posting the photos and especially the picture of your Shop Cat.  

Chuck


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## delalio (May 15, 2020)

That is a beauty of a flywheel!

Nice!


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## Richard Hed (May 15, 2020)

ZAPJACK said:


> Dear all,
> After my third tractor, I will start THE great Corliss Steam Engine from Coles Power Models.
> For and Continental old European guy, it's double complicate
> Because I'm thinking in metric decimal. So the translation from fraction imperial size is not always easy.
> ...


That's wonderful to see what you are doing.  I had to machine the same crank bed on a faceplate.


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## awake (May 15, 2020)

Beautiful work! And I love your shop helper on your shoulder!


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## ZAPJACK (May 15, 2020)

awake said:


> And I love your shop helper on your shoulder!


It's the boss, I'm only the workmen!
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK (May 22, 2020)

Inside/ outside 20TPI tread for the cross head barrel.
LZ


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## Richard Hed (May 22, 2020)

ZAPJACK said:


> Dear all,
> After my third tractor, I will start THE great Corliss Steam Engine from Coles Power Models.
> For and Continental old European guy, it's double complicate
> Because I'm thinking in metric decimal. So the translation from fraction imperial size is not always easy.
> ...


Where did you get those castings?  I'm surprised there are any out there at all.  Where did you get the drawings--they are so clean and roomy.  The dwgs. I have are from the originals from AW Ray (Eloda Ray)--they are absolutely HORRIBLE by today's standards.  They mark them as 1946 and drawing standards were not agreed upon til 1972.  The originals are very cluttered and difficult to read, and occassionally incomplete or misleading.  So are the drawings you have copyrighted?

I have redrawn them for my own use but I consolidated several peices as I could not understand what the use of having two separate pieces for a couple parts (other than for having a "pure, clean" exact model which I consider up to the maker exclusively).  The easiest to consolidate are the steam and exhaust bonnets which are both made from two peices.  The bases are identical in both bonnet types so one can "mass" produce them, that is, make 4.  then you need two each of the exhaust tops and steam tops, but I just consider it bad designing and extra things to go wrong .  Maybe there is some reason for those two parts but I could never thimk of what it might be.  There is one reason, I believe these might have been designed this way and that is simply because people might not have had access to a mill or better machines that we have today.  I thimk that is far fetched however, because most of this can be done on any lathe.

Oh, yeah, they used to put all the dimensions in fractions which is very irritating simply because no matter what, one has to convert the fractions to decimal, at least nowadays.  I read that there were calipers and maybe indicators that used the fraction system but I have never seen one.  They would be collectors items today.  I'm redrawing something that has these types of dims:  39/64ths, 27/32, etc, .  Lots of calculator time on that.  and when I have to add up several of the dims like 2-27/32 + 1-9/16 + 5/32*2+ 3/8, it gets to be a real pain.  The Ray drawings are fractions but never anything worse than a 1/16th.  Truth is, the Ray drawings are a work of art, just not up to modern standards--like the Mona Lisa.


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## lathe nut (May 23, 2020)

I will post the story behind this Corliss tonight got to get off to work, Joe


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## BaronJ (May 23, 2020)

Hi Richard, Joe, Guys,

Richard you haven't replied to my Email yet ! Taking you up on your offer of drawings !

Joe, its a shame the pictures are only thumbnails.  That big flywheel reminds me of Agnes.


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## Richard Hed (May 23, 2020)

lathe nut said:


> I will post the story behind this Corliss tonight got to get off to work, Joe


This makes me weep.  Such a beautiful engine thrown to the wolves, sold as scrap.  I wish I had this in my back yard.  Could you send larger photos?


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## lathe nut (May 23, 2020)

I was sad to back and she how much they had stolen, wish I would haven taken the steam whistle, I was first fried with wood, they cut year around, then they discovered crude oil and 1901 so the went to crude burning, then later come a natural gas like so we tapped into it and heated the boiler quick, all I had back then was a floppy dis camera, I was a kid and wanted to stop it, well I got at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock they would laugh and go home had to craw in the hole tie on to a spoke and 12:00 to start it, i finally got the hang it if.


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## plipoma (May 23, 2020)

Attached are photos of my Corliss build in progress. I didn't attempt to thread the cross slide barrel and the cylinder interface. The cylinder will be securely fastened to the base via the basin plate as is the crank assembly, there will be little to no forces on this interface. I machined them close and will use set screws and will not have to worry about threading so the parts are correctly clocked.
Another thing I would like to point out, the 8-32 screws specified almost through-out, I think are over-sized, particular where the cross head barrel adapter mounts to the cylinder, 8-32's will not fit, I used 5-40's. I also believe the 8-32's are proportionately large in other places. I used 5-40 studs for head and the steam bushing/valve and 5-40 bolts on the top valve plate. I will also use 5-40's on the valve covers and bonnets. I used 8-32's  for the cross-head barrel to crank assembly interface, a good size for that interface. The basin plate and the cylinder are not secured in these photos.  





 I wouldn't use over 6-40's in these places.


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## Rudy (May 24, 2020)

One impressive build LeZap". In addition to the impressive cat, I can't help noticing the nice Schaublin machines you got. Would be interesting to see a thread on those too?
Rudy


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## ZAPJACK (May 24, 2020)

@ Richard Hed: I bought the castings in 2011, before Coles's stopped business.
Drawings are very good except some difficulties to "translate" in metric size.
I fully respect the imperial size but I'm working and thinking in decimal-metric.
Original drawings are from Eloda Ray in 1946.
Cole's Power Models upgrade the drawings in sept 1979 (R. Bromps)
@ Plipoma: very clean design on the top and side of the cylinder bloc.
I expend you're working with a CNC milling machine?
@ Rudy: here is my worshop





						ZAPJACK's workshop
					

Dear, I will present to you my workshop at the end of april 2018 It's 25 years of collecting machines, tools, measurement instrument, steels,  Enjoy the visit At first, the measurement instruments: Tesa, Mahr, ROCH Etalon, Olympus, Carl Zeiss, Bowers, Mitutoyo... LeZap




					www.homemodelenginemachinist.com
				



LeZap


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## propclock (May 24, 2020)

Beautiful. I think you can skip the iron supplement pills for a while.
 I can almost taste  it. 
Thanks for all your posts.


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## Richard Hed (May 24, 2020)

That is absolutely BEAUTIFUL.  My drawings are copies of the original 1946 AW Rays (Eloda), they are terrible (but a work of art in themselves).  I thimk I will try to photograph one of the 13 dwgs. and post it so peeps can see what it was like.  It's quite interesting


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## gredeby (May 25, 2020)

ZAPJACK said:


> Dear all,
> After my third tractor, I will start THE great Corliss Steam Engine from Coles Power Models.
> For and Continental old European guy, it's double complicate
> Because I'm thinking in metric decimal. So the translation from fraction imperial size is not always easy.
> ...


Nice workshop & work.
I realy like your machines. I,m a fan of Schaublin. I used Shaublin when I worked as a toolmaker in1970.


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## plipoma (May 25, 2020)

There still seem to be questions about the availability of Coles Corliss drawings and castings. As I posted earlier, for those interested, the 1978-79 R. Bromps drawings and some castings are available from Jeffrey Lehn, Ph. 724 931 0580.


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## Jeffrey Lehn (May 25, 2020)

Phil , Impressive work on a complicated build . .Jeff


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## bigal2749 (May 25, 2020)

Machining done that nice and crisp makes it a work of art.  Al


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## jwcnc1911 (May 31, 2020)

Nice but all I can think is how bad I want that Schaublin mill.


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## lathe nut (May 31, 2020)

What a beautiful Engine, I was wonder do you really do all that work or the one on your shoulder does it and you taking the credit, I think I know the answer, you going to have some serious hours of machining in that engine, looking forward to see it running, the one we had was rope driven to the pump, that was a neat way they did it to switch it back to the other side of the drive pulley, when I was running it one night it started pounding I went around the side of the engine where the valves were and it was a worn catch block that would lift the cam about half way and drop it, so I took my hand and held the came to the catch block was and it got silent, well that was good but a young kid and had never change on with the engine running I helped it drop for about two hours before the older man come to relieve me, he was calm said stay here I will get the block, I was well aware of how to keep it opening while he changed it, the next time It pounded but I change it quick as i could, I have wanted to build one but the hours, this winter I am going to make the pulleys to show how the rope was crossed over, some people have asked me over the years where you get a V-Belt that long I tell them it was a rope and get a blank stare, I say to them when you figure that out let me know, no answer yet, again thanks for sharing your wisdom, Joe


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## Richard Hed (May 31, 2020)

lathe nut said:


> What a beautiful Engine, I was wonder do you really do all that work or the one on your shoulder does it and you taking the credit, I think I know the answer, you going to have some serious hours of machining in that engine, looking forward to see it running, the one we had was rope driven to the pump, that was a neat way they did it to switch it back to the other side of the drive pulley, when I was running it one night it started pounding I went around the side of the engine where the valves were and it was a worn catch block that would lift the cam about half way and drop it, so I took my hand and held the came to the catch block was and it got silent, well that was good but a young kid and had never change on with the engine running I helped it drop for about two hours before the older man come to relieve me, he was calm said stay here I will get the block, I was well aware of how to keep it opening while he changed it, the next time It pounded but I change it quick as i could, I have wanted to build one but the hours, this winter I am going to make the pulleys to show how the rope was crossed over, some people have asked me over the years where you get a V-Belt that long I tell them it was a rope and get a blank stare, I say to them when you figure that out let me know, no answer yet, again thanks for sharing your wisdom, Joe


IN Cebu City (Philippines) I can get any type of belts done for a few bucks.  Custom made.  It is quite simple really, I'm sure if someone wanted to, they could make simple belts of some type of rope/fibre and some type of curable rubber with a form of some type and do what is necessary.  I have been thimking about how I am going to do the belts for the Corliss/Ray.  Maybe I will put some effort into making some of these belts.


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## lathe nut (Jun 1, 2020)

I don't think you understand what I was talking about, let me try again, it was one continuous rope, try to understand it was not V-Belt groves, it was round groves in the flywheel and the pump pulley (like you would make with a round over tool) flywheel 30' in diameter and the pump pulley 8' and 60' from center of each shaft, think they make a V-Belt that size and for a few bucks.


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## Richard Hed (Jun 1, 2020)

lathe nut said:


> I don't think you understand what I was talking about, let me try again, it was one continuous rope, try to understand it was not V-Belt groves, it was round groves in the flywheel and the pump pulley (like you would make with a round over tool) flywheel 30' in diameter and the pump pulley 8' and 60' from center of each shaft, think they make a V-Belt that size and for a few bucks.


You are right I didn't understand.  I have seen where there are rope pulleys where there are several ropes on the pulleys acting as a single belt (several ropes= one belt , sorta).  What I'm thimking is very much the same thing in miniature but not rope shaped grooves, rather one set of fibres set with some tiype of goo like rubber that can be baked  or cured some way.

In this forum there are lots of guys having to figure out things like they did 100 years ago, like my dad and his friends did, and occassionally a few people in the modern ages can go, I like this.  One thing is that in the third world people still do those sorts of things.  I am amazed at what people can do in the philippines, even when one generally thimks of Philippino people as quite backwards--the ones with ambition do amazing things.  I see some Indian (from India) utube vids where they do amazing things too.  In the "West" we are so rich, we forget sometimes, how to thimk.


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## ZAPJACK (Jun 9, 2020)

There are three different cast iron plates to adapt to the cylinder block.
See the difference between "before" and "after"
Machining the 4 valves holes is really a stressful job
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Jun 9, 2020)

ZAPJACK said:


> There are three different cast iron plates to adapt to the cylinder block.
> See the difference between "before" and "after"
> Machining the 4 valves holes is really a stressful job
> LeZap
> ...


Can I ask why this is so stressful?  I did this about 40 years ago and I can't remember being stressed by it.  You have goo tools and looks to me like a very goo job.  I thimk basically all you really have to worry about is making sure the cutter is exactly center lined up with the meeting of the plate and body.  You could be a few thou left or right but not the meeting line.


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## ZAPJACK (Jun 13, 2020)

The fine tread are also something complicate to do. There is a lot of.
But the biggest difficulty is to stop just before the end of part.
The cutting tool come very close.
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Jun 13, 2020)

ZAPJACK said:


> The fine tread are also something complicate to do. There is a lot of.
> But the biggest difficulty is to stop just before the end of part.
> The cutting tool come very close.
> LeZap
> ...


Yes, u r correct.  I didn't bother with doing those fine threads I did it a different way, with little screws.  But NOW I have ahand wheel which makes that kind of operation much easier


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## kvom (Jun 14, 2020)

The sandwich cylinder block is quite interesting.  On my current project, the Greene cutoff engine, the block is a single casting.  I had a blowout on the top, and before deciding to repair it I investigated making the block from 3 pieces of cast iron to replicate the internal cores.  Since I had a Solidworks model of the cylinder, I could slice it quite precisely.

I eventually decided to mill out the damaged area and install a patch.


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## ZAPJACK (Jan 31, 2021)

Hello there, sorry I'm a little bit late on my post.
Here's piston, connecting rod and cross head. + piston rings
LeZap


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## plipoma (Feb 3, 2021)

Beautiful work!


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## Steamchick (Feb 4, 2021)

LeZap: Lovely work - keep up the good work and excellent reports. Especially the work making stepped piston rings. I just wonder if in truth they are worth the effort of making? - Or is that the stupid question is because this is like climbing mountains. Don't ask "why" - the pleasure is both in "the Doing" and "Achieving the result".
Raised on Commercial industry - I look for the best engineering solution - which considers everything - including cost, materials, serviceability, "manufacturing efficiency", and a host of other things - including stress of the people making it! They do appear to have a large overlap. Not something I have designed, so what are the criteria for the design of the overlap? - I have only designed rings for cylinder wall pressure, size and with straight gaps. (Decades ago!).
K2


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## Richard Hed (Feb 4, 2021)

Steamchick said:


> LeZap: Lovely work - keep up the good work and excellent reports. Especially the work making stepped piston rings. I just wonder if in truth they are worth the effort of making? - Or is that the stupid question is because this is like climbing mountains. Don't ask "why" - the pleasure is both in "the Doing" and "Achieving the result".
> Raised on Commercial industry - I look for the best engineering solution - which considers everything - including cost, materials, serviceability, "manufacturing efficiency", and a host of other things - including stress of the people making it! They do appear to have a large overlap. Not something I have designed, so what are the criteria for the design of the overlap? - I have only designed rings for cylinder wall pressure, size and with straight gaps. (Decades ago!).
> K2


There is also the genuiness of parts to consider.  As for myself, I just buy suitable commercial rings.  But I applaud the efforts of those who wish to make their own.


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## Steamchick (Feb 5, 2021)

I remember stepped rings when re-furbishing IC engines and large piston air compressors in the 1960s, but since the 19770s I have only experienced straight cut rings - although I did re-design some air motors that already had PTFE rings, some cut at 45 degrees. Nobody could explain "why" - but it seemed to be someone's "Whim" to reduce blow-by - although calculations showed that to be so insignificant as to be - well, insignificant! I can see that at each "corner" there is a pressure drop - where the turbulent constriction factor restricts the flow by 80~90 % at each corner, so 2 corners permits ~72% of "flow" but 4 corners permits ~ 52% of flow... so the improvement is to permit 5/7ths of blow-by of a straight cut.... Maybe on a small I.C. model (e.g. 1cc) with so little volume this makes a significant drop of actual compression versus calculated displacement compression? - But on "real" engines (35cc and up to hundreds of litres) this becomes insignificant? Also, on Steam plant - such as the  Corliss engine here - the steam blow-by assists "end-of-stroke" damping - and is also restricted a bit by condensation from expansion through the ring gap, etc. thus making any improvement from the stepped ring (due to steam loss) as virtually immeasurable. But a brilliant job by LeZap to make the stepped rings! Where the average man goes, there will always be a perfectionist in front setting a new limit. You are well in front of me!
K2


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 5, 2021)

Thanks for your considération.
I try to be close possible to the spirit of the creator of this Corliss. (1946)
Of course, it's much more easier to order rings by Amazon of other. But I don't look for easy way
LeZap


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## Steamchick (Feb 5, 2021)

On ropes... One bit of ancient technology (Yes, I mean ancient - as in pre-Egyptian!) that ropes are good for: The splice. I learned splicing ropes with the Grey Funnel Fleet.... and love to splice and end ropes properly now. The Coxswain ("Coxun" to some who can't spell English words) taught us Midshipmen - and then showed us what 4 hours could do when he spliced a 2inch steel-wire rope eye that was used on the Hawser for a towing exercise. Dozens of high tensile steel wires to interweave. Actually, not a great load used towing a ship. 1 Man could "Walk" the boat along the wharf (I did one night) about 200 feet to the next berth so the ferry could arrive the following morning. Slow, but secured all the way and just a lot of slackening and tightening ropes in a sequence. And everyone slept while I did it!
Back to ropes: The masts of Sailing ships (proper big multi-masted Ocean racing beauties!) were actually 2, 3 or 4 masts: tied to each other one atop another. All held with ropes. Not nuts and bolts!  Have a look at the masts next time you see a tall ship.
The Spinning Jennies and  looms in all the Cotton and Wool Manufactories of the North of England industrial revolution - powered by large water wheels - were driven from "engine floor" - where the water wheel and sluices were - up to the floors above by rope loops over pulleys. The loops were (and are in museums today) joined by splicing. 
It's just like platting a girl's hair (bet you can't remember doing that as a little lad!) - but platting one girl's hair into the plat of another girl's hair is splicing! And they scream at you when they can't undo it and you run off! The only exception is "splicing the main-brace". That's the best splice of all...
K2


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 5, 2021)

This are the exhaust and intake ports. Here comes the rotatives valves
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Feb 5, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> This are the exhaust and intake ports. Here comes the rotatives valves
> LeZap
> View attachment 122771
> View attachment 122772
> ...


After looking over your beautiful stuff, I want to re-do some of my stuff on the same Corliss.  One thing I thimpfk I absolutely must re-do is the Throttle Body.  This is Stainless and difficult to do.  I did one but would like to redo it as I have learned a little since then and I needs two anyway.

I have a suggestion, it may be too late already as I see you have the ports milled out.  Anyplace where a fluid flows, ttry to NOT have square and flat areas where 'bounce' occurs.  Use ball end mills to get a curved surface where the fluid can slide instead of bounce.  Thimpfk of a kidz' slide on a playground where they slide down.  Instead of slide, what if the kidz simply fell off the end of the top?  Rather abrupt and a bit bouncy.  Bounce in steam is wher the fluid is bounced off a wall and interrupts the steam flow, if it 'slides' instead, it interrupts much less, increasing efficiency.  There is an exact formula, but even a 45deg angle will help tremendously.  Also, polishing or close to it, fine milling, is a goo thing to do where ever there is fluid flow as turbulence is caused by any roughness of the milling and turbulence really decreases efficiency.  In ONE case, you WANT that turbulence, that is at the piston/cylinder wall to act as rings do.


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## plipoma (Feb 6, 2021)

Not about ropes but about piston rings. In IC engines, because of the very high peak pressure  during combustion, good sealing rings are very important to reduce the ill effects of blow-by.
My experience with small scale model steam engines that in most cases can run on 5 to 15 Lbs. of pressure and around 100 RPM, blow by can be insignificant when a smooth fit (.001" clearance) between piston and cylinder is used. The friction of most any form of contact  piston rings far offsets the effects of blow by. Usually cutting a couple of small grooves around the piston (.02" wide by .02" deep) creates enough turbulence to cause an effective air seal.


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## justintime (Feb 7, 2021)

gredeby said:


> Nice workshop & work.
> I realy like your machines. I,m a fan of Schaublin. I used Shaublin when I worked as a toolmaker in1970.


Great work,  I absolutely love seeing Schaublin equipment of any type, loved that brand from first one I saw, beautiful stuff !


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 7, 2021)

And the bonnet and valve port cover
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Feb 7, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> And the bonnet and valve port cover
> LeZap
> View attachment 122815
> View attachment 122816
> ...


On my Corliss, I redesigned the parts in this last photo.  For the live of me, I could not figure out why the bases of these steam/exhaust bonnets were made in two parts.  The only thing that comes near to the necessity is putting part 37 in your section view into the base part.  However, that fits nicely thru the side opening just fine--so why the two parts?  If anyone knows, please let me know.


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 10, 2021)

@Richard Hed : It's alway possible to simplify the original design, but I want to keep the spirit of early 1946. Thanks to Eloda Ray.
LZ


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 10, 2021)

Pictures speak for themselves
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Feb 10, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> @Richard Hed : It's alway possible to simplify the original design, but I want to keep the spirit of early 1946. Thanks to Eloda Ray.
> LZ


I understand completely however, I am of a different mind.  I want the same results, the same look but if two parts can be made into one and still get all the other parts into it properly, to fit correctly and to operate correctly, then I consolidate them


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 13, 2021)

Can someone please explain how the exhaust valves closes?
Thanks
LeZap


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## Pierkemo (Feb 13, 2021)

Nice work Zapjack!!


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 15, 2021)

Now the gear and rods of the Corliss system
The third picture is the Schaublin spherical turning apparatus.
And of course, left and right tread.
LeZap
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Feb 15, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> Now the gear and rods of the Corliss system
> The third picture is the Schaublin spherical turning apparatus.
> And of course, left and right tread.
> LeZap
> ...


Beautiful L and RH threads


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 16, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> Can someone please explain how the exhaust valves closes?
> Thanks LeZap


Nobody for the explaining?


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## Richard Hed (Feb 16, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> Nobody for the explaining?


It is rather straight forward how it works.;  The only snag is getting the valves in the correct configuration, both L and R hand valves.  the opening is a bit larger width as well as the angle compared to the steam valve.  Have you got those correct?  It's very tricky.  the valve has to be carefully timed when you tighten the bolt into the exhaust rod.  The arm that the expansion of the top of the exhaust rod "clamps" to is attached to your wonderful adjustable connecting rods which in turn go to the rocker In the center of the cylinder.  I notice in your parts that your steam and exhaust rods do not yet have the bored, threaded and split ends which you need.  I have put a jpeg in showing the end.  I hope this helps but if not let me know


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 16, 2021)

@Richard Hed, The four rods are finished, but the split have only 0,3mm (0,012") thick, so not visible but it work very well;
I understand (more of less) how the Corliss work. But to adjust all the parts together it's another song!
*But I don't understand how exhaust valves closes. *For the opening, it's clear.
There no fix link, only the dashpots at the end, but completely free
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Feb 16, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> @Richard Hed, The four rods are finished, but the split have only 0,3mm (0,012") thick, so not visible but it work very well;
> I understand (more of less) how the Corliss work. But to adjust all the parts together it's another song!
> *But I don't understand how exhaust valves closes. *For the opening, it's clear.
> There no fix link, only the dashpots at the end, but completely free
> LeZap


I don't understand the problem.  The exhaust eccentric operates the exhaust lever, this lever is connected to the first or right hand valve, operating it.  Then this RH valve is connected to the center circle which operates the LH valve.  The only thing is to make sure the correct valve is in the proper position and to make sure the valves are machined correctly.

First get the RH valve adjusted properly and working correctly, then do the LH valve.

BTW, the valve rods, I thimpfk, are incorrectly related to the valves themselves, IMNSHO.  In the drawings, the valve has the raised 1/16th X 1/16th raised portion which fits into the rod head.  I thimpfk this is a big mistake due to the weakness of cast iron.  If the two positions are reversed, that is, the female portion is in the cast iron, it is much stronger.  That is the way I am going to proceed.  -- Cast iron - female; stainless rod - male.


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## Richard Hed (Feb 17, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> @Richard Hed, The four rods are finished, but the split have only 0,3mm (0,012") thick, so not visible but it work very well;
> I understand (more of less) how the Corliss work. But to adjust all the parts together it's another song!
> *But I don't understand how exhaust valves closes. *For the opening, it's clear.
> There no fix link, only the dashpots at the end, but completely free
> LeZap


Are you sure we're talking about the "exhaust"?  The dashpots help operate the "steam" input not the exhaust.  The exhaust is very straight forward, the steam input is more complicated.


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 18, 2021)

Yes exactly. I speak about exhaust valves and only the closing. For the opening, it's clear.
It's a big mystery for me. Perhaps the dashpots help? But in that case by depression or vacuum?
LeZap


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## kvom (Feb 18, 2021)

Dashpots are there to close the input valves after cutoff.


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## Richard Hed (Feb 18, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> Yes exactly. I speak about exhaust valves and only the closing. For the opening, it's clear.
> It's a big mystery for me. Perhaps the dashpots help? But in that case by depression or vacuum?
> LeZap


KVOM is correct.  The dashpots are for quick shut off of the steam input valves.  They have nothing to do with the exhaust.  The exhaust is simple--it is simply rocked back and forth buy the eccentric train of rods, levers, wrist and more rods.  It has nothing like the steam input which has a bunch of timing modifying mechanisms.

I'm wondering if you can send a photo with your concerns marked out, that might give us the understanding of what you are having trouble with.  I can understand having trouble with the steam INPUT as that has all those modifying elements.


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## stugunu (Feb 19, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> Now the gear and rods of the Corliss system
> The third picture is the Schaublin spherical turning apparatus.
> And of course, left and right tread.
> LeZap
> ...


Very nice looking parts you have made, someday I would love to make that engine also.


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 20, 2021)

@ Richard Hed: I come back later when rods & valves finished
LZ


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 23, 2021)

Here are the pictures of the assembling of the Corliss gears.
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Feb 23, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> Here are the pictures of the assembling of the Corliss gears.
> LeZap
> View attachment 123361
> View attachment 123362
> ...


I have to say, it is totally beautiful and I am very jealous.  Have you figured out how the exhaust works?  Your wrist/exhaust mechanism shows it all.  I like how you put brass bushings in the steam mechanism.   did you build the knock-off mechanism oversize for that?


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 23, 2021)

Richard Hed said:


> Have you figured out how the exhaust works?


Yes, for the opening it's clear, but still curious for the closing cycle.
LeZap


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## stugunu (Feb 24, 2021)

Very nice, keep posting updates on your engine. I would love to see pictures when you have it finished.


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## BaronJ (Feb 27, 2021)

Hi Zapjack,

This is a picture of Agnes, looking at the valve gear !

Unfortunately due to Covid restrictions she is not in steam or viewable at the moment.  Usually Agnes is running when the Markham museum is open.





I hope this picture is of help.


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## Richard Hed (Feb 27, 2021)

BaronJ said:


> Hi Zapjack,
> 
> This is a picture of Agnes, looking at the valve gear !
> 
> ...


How big is Agnes?  Any more photos?


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## BaronJ (Feb 27, 2021)

Richard Hed said:


> How big is Agnes?  Any more photos?



Hi Richard, Guys,





Sorry I had assumed that people knew that Agnes is a full size dual cylinder Corliss steam engine !

This picture is looking towards the front of Agnes.  The maroon painted front and the flywheel with the 20, I think, rope grooves is the big black thing in the middle of the picture.  Just to give you some indication of size, the railings around the exhibits is 4 foot high.





This is a much closer view.  The steam feed comes in just to my left near the top of the picture.





This is a picture of the barring engine.  Used to turn Agnes over when starting her from cold or doing maintenance work on her.





This picture is of a model of Agnes positioned directly opposite with a modified valve actuation mechanism.  Again like Agnes a dual cylinder machine with the steam coming into the high pressure cylinder.





Last but not least a picture of her front showing her pedigree. 

Hope you like the pictures.  I do have more, but these are the interesting ones.


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## ZAPJACK (Apr 18, 2021)

Dashpots are finished. Piston are polished and pumping effect is good without oil.
Next steps for the six following month, is the governor.
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Apr 18, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> Dashpots are finished. Piston are polished and pumping effect is good without oil.
> Next steps for the six following month, is the governor.
> LeZap
> View attachment 124586
> ...


It's totally beautiful.  How long has it taken to get this far?


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## ZAPJACK (Apr 18, 2021)

I note the hours of work every days. Totally at today is 412 hours
LZ


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## Richard Hed (Apr 18, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> I note the hours of work every days. Totally at today is 412 hours
> LZ


Whoa, you keep the hours?!  That's truly amazing.  I can hardly wait to see it run.


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## Pierkemo (Apr 21, 2021)

Very, very nice! Go on!


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## ZAPJACK (May 2, 2021)

Here's the governor body. The cubic parts is completely from bar stock and the 3 tread are machined
LeZap


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## Richard Hed (Nov 17, 2021)

ZAPJACK said:


> Here's the governor body. The cubic parts is completely from bar stock and the 3 tread are machined
> LeZap
> View attachment 125017
> View attachment 125018
> View attachment 125019


LeZap,
Any more on this build?  Are you close to it running?  I thimpfk the governor is the most difficult section of everything.

I noticed that you mentioned the "Greene" earlier, is that the "Improved Greene Steam Engine"?  I am looking for plans on that, and castings if anybody makes them.  Do you know of any plans?


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