# Upshur Engine #4 of 5. Vertical F-Head with optional hit-n miss governor.



## Metal Butcher (Apr 1, 2011)

Good news, Engine #4 is in running order! I had a bit of a problem with Hall sensor failure yesterday. I lost four of them in a row! I called Roy Sholl at S/S Machine & Engineering to see if he could help. Roy was very helpful and indicated that this can happen on occasion, and the solution is to simply isolate the Hall sensor and its prongs with shrink tubing, and to isolate the magnet from the metal carrier disc with a plastic bushing, or a .030" plastic spacer glued over the face of the Hall sensor. This will prevent any charge from passing from the magnet to the grounded hall sensor. As a first experiment I covered the three prong on the hall sensor with shrink tubing before gluing it in the sensor carrier, and that is working so far. If I have any more failures I will try adding a full 1" diameter .030" thick Delrin spacer between the sensor carrier and the magnet carrier disc, or I might drill out the magnet carrier for a Delrin isolation bushing to house the 1/8" magnet. Roy indicated that a damaging discharge has a tendency to pass more readily through the magnet than its carrier. A non-conductive magnet carrier would also work.

This engine displays a sensitive needle valve adjustment just like the #3 Horizontal F-Head. But It starts easy enough and runs strong, with excellent compression after a 20 minute break in run. All's well that ends well! 

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsUiDGxXEVk[/ame]

-MB


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## ironman (Apr 1, 2011)

hey Metal Butcher, those are superb. Been watching from go and learned a lot. I only have on e Upshur. The Single cylinder from SIC plans. Have you built that one? It's prettry cool to.
ironman (Ray)


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 1, 2011)

ironman  said:
			
		

> hey Metal Butcher, those are superb. Been watching from go and learned a lot. I only have one Upshur. The Single cylinder from SIC plans. Have you built that one? It's prettry cool to.
> ironman (Ray)



Hi Ironman, If your referring to the one with the finned cyl head, then no, I have not built that one or seen the plans.
I think DaveRC has a thread started on building one.

-MB


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## rudydubya (Apr 1, 2011)

Another beauty, MB.  :bow:  :bow: Are you using epoxy or silicone adhesive now to hold the hall sensors to the carrier?

Regards,
Rudy


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 1, 2011)

rudydubya  said:
			
		

> Another beauty, MB. :bow: :bow: Are you using epoxy or silicone adhesive now to hold the hall sensors to the carrier?
> 
> Regards,
> Rudy



Hi Rudy. I used 2-part 90 second epoxy on the first 5 sensors. They had their bare prongs set in it without insulation. That may be the cause of the sensor failure, but the first 3 engines are still running fine. I'm a bit puzzled. scratch.gif

On this engine #4 with 4 sensor failures, I insulated the last replacement sensor all the way up to the top with shrink tubing and set it in super glue jell with activator. I felt the super glue would be O.K., since its not in contact with the sensor, and protected by the shrink tubing. Now that its totally insulated the problem seems to be solved. If its not then I'll try to isolate the next sensor additionally with a 1'' x .030' disc of Delrin between the sensor disc and magnet disc.

-MB


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## bearcar1 (Apr 1, 2011)

That is WAY!!! too cool. Congratulations on yet another great engine MB. woohoo1
What fuel have you been running in these engines? 

BC1
Jim


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 1, 2011)

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> That is WAY!!! too cool. Congratulations on yet another great engine MB. woohoo1
> What fuel have you been running in these engines?
> 
> BC1
> Jim



Thanks Jim! 
I'm using a mixture of regular unleaded gasoline with 2-stroke oil. At first I used roughly a 50 to 1 mix, and that left a red oily residue that was gumming up the intake valves. I switched to roughly a 100 to 1 mix that seems much better with out the gummy residue. I oil all of the engines bearing points with reg 30WT oil before a run, and add a drop to the exposed piston as a precaution. I generally get about 40 to 50 minutes run time on a full tank of fuel and one oiling.

I made up the mix in a clean 32 oz. motor oil container by adding 32 oz. of gas and 1/3 oz. Homelite 2-stroke oil. That should equate to about a 100 to 1 mix. I transfer the mix as needed to a used, properly labeled, and clean 'Zoom Spout Turbine Oil' container for fueling the individual engine tanks. 

I labeled the containers for safety, and just in case I have a 'Senior moment'. Wouldn't want it to end up in my mower or motorcycle crankcase! oh:

-MB


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## hopeless (Apr 1, 2011)

Not only another very nice runner but also good taste in music.......... :bow:
cheers
Pete


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## metalmad (Apr 2, 2011)

Another great runner 
Thats a very hard act to follow!! :bow: :bow:
Pete


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 5, 2011)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Another great runner
> Thats a very hard act to follow!! :bow: :bow:
> Pete



Thanks Pete, and to everyone else that's been watching my project!

-MB


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