# candle powered engine wanted



## drysdam (May 27, 2012)

I really like the one here: http://www.steamer.cz/par_min.html

The problem is that combined with my inexperience, the metric measurements and non-English (Polish?) instructions and labels are a little difficult. Is there an imperial measurement version of this in native English?


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## Tin Falcon (May 27, 2012)

sometimes this hobby is about overcoming obstacles if you like that engine build it. 



> The problem is that combined with my inexperience


the only way to gain experience DO IT !!!!




> the metric measurements


just make 1 mm = 1/16 of an inch . OK I admit not a true conversion your model will be a little large but easier to build and tolerances more forgiving. 




> non-English (Polish?) instructions and labels are a little difficult


If you look closer you will see instructions and labels in English as well as polish . no worse than the multi language instructions on most imported goods from the big box importers. 


jmho
Tin


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## drysdam (May 27, 2012)

I'm not sure that the words appearing under the heading of "English" on that page constitute there being instructions "in English". That said, I've printed out the drawings and I'll see what I can make of them.


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## ShedBoy (May 27, 2012)

Graet find and a good looking little engine. Metric is nothing to be worried about, I find it alot easier to use personally but I am from a metric generation. Some other good plans on that site too. You need to get a hold of some digital verniers with the metric/imperial button or use the unit converter in the menu. I am sure you will be fine but do post a build thread I would like to watch along.
Brock


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## drysdam (May 28, 2012)

I like the look of the tea candle, but I think it'll soot up the bottom of the boiler. I know there are fuels that won't do that, but what are they and what are their other requirements (i.e. more than just a wick dipped in the fuel source)?

Also, I plan on doing a small production run of these for gifts and I don't want to have to be the fuel supplier for all time. It needs to be something a Muggle will feel comfortable buying and working with, i.e. lamp oil, rubbing alcohol, etc.

I looked for a thread here on burners but didn't see one.


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## lazylathe (May 28, 2012)

Denatured alcohol is the way to go for fuel!
Burns better than rubbing alcohol and also a bit hotter.

I have been able to "fix" some Stirling engines at a show just by changing their fuel source.
The alcohol you can buy at the pharmacy is not as good as DNA.

Andrew


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## ausdier (May 28, 2012)

I have modeled it in imperial and will soon produce working drawings for the same.


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## drysdam (May 28, 2012)

Whoa, thanks! I've been working it out on paper and that's been showing me a few issues to think about/design around. But I just now realized that 1mm=1/16" is like 60% oversize, so it might be nice to have more accurate numbers.


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## fcheslop (May 28, 2012)

Hi,simply divide by 25.4
best wishes and good luck I have looked at this design a few times just never got round to it . The gentleman mentions on his site he had problems getting to run well on a candle and built a spirit burner I think there is a similar design on the J.P Duval site
Frazer


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## drysdam (May 28, 2012)

Well, I'm redrawing each thing plus converting threads and redesigning a few things to make it simpler/less expensive for me. Not just a matter of division.

What is "the JP Duval site"? Link?


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## mklotz (May 28, 2012)

1 mm ~= 0.039"
1/16 in ~= 0.063"
1/32 in ~= 0.031"

100*(0.063 - 0.039)/0.039 = 61% error

100*(0.031 - 0.039}/0.039 = -20% error 

So why are you using 1/16? 1/32 is a far better approximation.


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## Tin Falcon (May 28, 2012)

just a way to scale up a bit and keep the numbers even. these methods are printed in village press books and are ways to work with metric. there is nothing wrong with true conversions either if that is what the builder prefers. just giving options. 
Tin


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## fcheslop (May 28, 2012)

[email protected].  also the site you downloaded the drawings from there is a union jack flag click on it to bring up some English text you may have to translate it.
best wishes


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## drysdam (May 28, 2012)

<i>100*(0.031 - 0.039}/0.039 = -20% error </i>

Hmmm...I think I'm actually going to have to translate a 1mm to 1.5/32 = 3/64. 1/16 is too big (in material cost if nothing else) and 1/32 is too small. Still 20% off, but in the other direction. 

On the plus side, all I have to change is the dimensions on my already-finished drawings.


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## hopeless (May 28, 2012)

.008 isn't that much smaller so 1/32 would be good except for old eyes I gues :big:
Having been schooled whilst imperial numeracy was taught I now use either measurement but prefer imperial. I find its much easier to use one or the other rather than converting. With the advent of digital mics, calipers and rulers with dual measurement why go to the trouble of converting. just my 2/10ths worth
Pete


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