# Building a Bonzer Bonzer



## Philjoe5 (Aug 18, 2013)

[FONT=&quot]Hi folks,[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I was tempted to title this post A yanks Bonzer but settled on what you see.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Im going to build my first IC engine.  After much deliberation I decided on building the Bonzer IC engine featured by our very own AussieJim.  The *Bonzer* is his version of the *Bonza* IC engine.  The bonza is an engine designed by John Williams which appeared in several issues of Australian Model Engineering magazine starting in September 2009.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]AussieJim kindly provided myself and others with a set of nicely done plans at no cost.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Ill post my progress of this build in the Works in Progress section but I warn you if you are not entertained by watching paint dry you should not tune in because this is going to be a long build.  I decided to post my progress here (with a nudge from AussieJim) in the interest that it may benefit others who have begun or plan to begin building this fine engine.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]This project has machining techniques that are new to me.  These are:[/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]Making Gears[/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]Making piston rings[/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]Making valves with seats [/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]So in no particular order and subject to my geriatric whim I decided to tackle the gear thing first.  [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Several posters on HMEM have given great advice as to where to buy reasonably priced cutter sets for module 1 or Diammetrical Pitch 25.4 gears and how to proceed and I thank you all for your help.  I wont go into a lot of detail but I spent 5 weeks to learn how to make a decent set of gears.  I made lots of gears that are serviceable but only the last 5 or 6 came out with good, consistent tooth profiles.  Note, Im planning other small projects using gears so while I had my machines set up I made gears for those projects.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]A photo of a steel and bronze set of 30T and 60T gears is shown here:[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]The most consistent gears were made using a friends dividing head and I would recommend, if you can borrow one, to use it.  Results using a 4 rotary table with a 3 chuck were OK but it was difficult to get consistent gear teeth on my equipment.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]OK, now for some less mentally taxing work Im going to work on the frame parts and will report back when theyre completed.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 18, 2013)

Sounds cool! Do you have a picture of the finished project for those of us who do not receive that publication?


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## Philjoe5 (Aug 18, 2013)

Steve,

Even better....Here's a website with AussieJim's build steps and video of the completed engine that inspired me.

http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/category/hit-n-miss/

Cheers,
Phil


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 18, 2013)

Philjoe5 said:


> Steve,
> 
> Even better....Here's a website with AussieJim's build steps and video of the completed engine that inspired me.
> 
> ...


something is weird
cant see the link but it shows up in the replyth_wtf1


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## Philjoe5 (Aug 18, 2013)

Luc,
It works on my end?????

Phil


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 18, 2013)

me to I used what shows off in the reply:hDe:

that thing looks like a Monster whats the specs B/S


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## Fluffy (Aug 18, 2013)

G'Day Phil,
Good choice for your engine. 
I found the Bonza a nice engine to build & it runs very well.
If you are intending to make your own piston rings & have not attempted this previously, might I suggest that you obtain a copy of Issue 27 of Model Engine Builder Magazine, as there is an extremely good article by Mr. Tom Schwartz on the subject. I made my rings as per the article & was very pleased with the compression produced. Send me a PM if you would like some images of my build.
Good luck with the engine.
Don.


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## Philjoe5 (Aug 18, 2013)

Hi Don,
Thanks for the reference on making rings.  I did make a ring for a "steam/air" engine I built, more for practice than anything else.  I followed the advice of some of my friends in the model engineering group I belong to.  It turns out that they suggested doing exactly as Mr. Schwartz did.  Of course, the real test of my ability to make a good ring will come with this IC engine.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Aug 18, 2013)

Luc,
The bore x stroke is 1.18" x 1.18" (30 mm x 30 mm).  Yes, it's a bign' - just right for a hamfisted guy like myself.

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Aug 18, 2013)

Fluffy said:


> G'Day Phil,
> Send me a PM if you would like some images of my build.
> Good luck with the engine.
> Don.



Don't be shy Don, post a photo so we can all see it.

Jim


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## ShedBoy (Aug 19, 2013)

I like Jim's engine. I will be watching this one

Brock


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## Philjoe5 (Aug 24, 2013)

[FONT=&quot]Bonza Post No 2[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I started making the frames from aluminum stock.  The side plates and end plates are 12 mm on the plans or 0.472.  Stock material in the USA is in US Customary  Units so ½ stock was milled to that dimension. This suits me because typical bar stock can vary by as much as 0.010 (or more) in its flatness and milling the pieces to dimension eliminates most of that variation.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot](A correction on sheet 5, governor side plate, the 6 mm hole at 44 x 90 is a through hole)[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]The side plates are not particularly difficult to make and the main bearing housings are also pretty straightforward to machine.  Once I bored the housings to 0.750 to accept a main bearing of that size, I made an arbor to hold the work while cutting the bosses on both ends.[/FONT]

_[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]_

  [FONT=&quot]I made the main bearings ¾ OD and 5/8 ID which is close to the 19 mm OD and 16 mm ID on the plans.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]The back plate called for a piece of stock 120 x 150 mm or 4.724 x 5.906 and I had a piece of stock just under that on the long dimension so I used it and made a slight cosmetic adjustment to that part which thereby personalizes this Bonzer.[/FONT]

_[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]_

  [FONT=&quot]The end plate has sides at 15 degree angles and the bandsaw was used to remove most of the excess, with an end mill to finish the job.[/FONT]

_[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]_

  [FONT=&quot]Ive finished the side plates, rear plate, main bearings and their housings the gears, the 60T gear bushing and eccentric.  I didnt want to press in the main bearings yet so using a piece of ¾ round stock I checked alignment with everything assembled and snugged up.  I can rotate the shaft easily so things are looking good so far.  This picture shows all the parts made for the engine so far is here:[/FONT]





  [FONT=&quot]The plans are very detailed showing perspective drawings and many thanks to AussieJim for drawing them up and providing them at no cost to our board.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]The cylinder end of the frame structure is a bit more complicated than the side frames so Ill come back here when thats completed.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


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## AussieJimG (Aug 24, 2013)

Well done Phil, it's looking better than mine.

I just cut the cylinder end plate with a carbide saw in an arbor in the mill (you can see the saw on John's website cutting the side plates).
I rounded the top with the disk sander and filed out the sanding marks.
The cutout on the side was an afterthought; I needed some clearance so I just ran a slot mill down the side.

I can't wait to see it next year.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 1, 2013)

[FONT=&quot]Jim,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Thanks for the kind words but your engine runs, mine?  Not so much, yet.  

My eye perspective is very poor.  If I were an artist I'd specialize in anamorphic illusions, but not on purpose so I tend to use machines more often.  
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I spent last week making the cylinder end plate.  Not any tricky machining to it but lots of steps.  I wanted to do all the critical drilling on the face in one setup.  Unfortunately I was so focused on this goal I countersunk the side plate and cylinder mounting holes on the same side!  Although I believe I had a journeymans fix to this problem, I elected to start over.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]On round #2, the cylinder and end plate mounting holes and the ¾ radius hole were all drilled in one setup.  Then I flipped the workpiece over to only countersink the cylinder mounting holes. [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]The end plate mounting holes were tapped 10-32 and the oil port hole on the top was [/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]tapped ¼  28 NF.  All the other machining is largely cosmetic.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I cut most of the excess off the sides with the bandsaw and made the edges true with an end mill.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]The angle on the sides of the plate was measured at 15o on the plans but that seemed a bit low when I made the cut, so I made a small adjustment and touched up the edge with an end mill. [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Now I needed to round off the top.  Ive done this using filing buttons or a rotary table.  I seem to get most consistent results with the rotary table.  So for a part with this much work into it, rotab it is.  [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]This workpiece has a convenient way to attach it to my fixture plate on the rotab.  I centered the spindle over the table center, and then moved the mill table for the 47 mm (1.918) bolt circle of the cylinder.  I drilled and tapped every other one of the eight holes 8-32 to hold the workpiece.  With the work fastened I used a 3/16 end mill to round off the top.[/FONT]





  [FONT=&quot]Now I had one seemingly simple machining step to finish the part.  The plans call for a plate thickness of 12 mm (0.472) and my workpiece was nominally ½.  Im sure I could deal with this difference down the line.  But milling the cylinder side of the endplate true seemed like a good thing and Im anticipating enough of fiddling at the final assembly without adding to it.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I made a fixture to hold the end plate so I could mill it to its thickness of 0.472.  With the fixture held in the vise, I milled the surface true, then drilled and tapped four of the six holes that attached the end plate to the side plate.  Then I milled the work to 12 mm thickness.  I wanted to do this in one step but couldnt reach the very edges (not a critical surface) so I flipped the part around to reach them.[/FONT]




  [FONT=&quot]I assembled the four frame pieces and there you have it:[/FONT]





  [FONT=&quot]In the spirit of the John Williams build, now that Ive got the frame, Ill start making parts to attach to it.  Im thinking the crankshaft is next.  [/FONT]


  [FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


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## AussieJimG (Sep 2, 2013)

It's looking good Phil, a real masterpiece. And you are not the first person to drill and counterbore all the holes on one side. If you want another one like that, sing out and I will send it to you.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 3, 2013)

Thanks for the offer Jim but my reject parts bin is already full.  That means from this day forward I will never make another bad part

Work on the crankshaft has begun.  I've not made a fabricated one before but I've seen a lot of them made here.  So far I've made the webs and tested them for fit





I'm going to key both ends of the shaft.  Then I'll pin all the pieces together after an application of loctite.

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Sep 3, 2013)

I have not had any success with Loctite (but others have). I think the pins do all the work.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 3, 2013)

Jim,
I think you're right about the pins.  I like to use loctite so nothing moves around before I clamp the work in the vise to drill the holes.  I read an article some time ago about using loctite.  IIRC the major failure mode of the stuff is by having too little clearance in the mating parts.  Sort of like silver soldering...the stuff needs to get into the mating spaces.

Tomorrow I'll be pinning the whole thing together.  I was experimenting today and I think for a 0.188" pin I want to ream my holes 0.001" over with the loctite just holding the pin in place. 

Has it warmed up any down your way?

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Sep 4, 2013)

We have had about 10 days of absolutely perfect weather; cool nights and days around 24-26 degrees (Celsius).

Last Sunday was the best yet: clear blue skies, no wind, 26 degrees and the Club had a run to Dalton, about 66 km from my place. I had the Triumph serviced and polished and was all set for a lovely ride.

And then it blew a fuse 2km from home and I had to abort. So I said naughty words and went back to the workshop. I still don't know why the fuse blew (and that's a worry).

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 5, 2013)

Jim,
Triumph as in motorcycle or car?

 [FONT=&quot]I made the two webs for the crankshaft from some ½ CRS.  Milled them to 0.394 x 0.984 x 2.598.  [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I drilled/reamed the journal hole to 0.500 and the shaft hole was drilled to 0.562, bored to about 0.6 then reamed to 0.625.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Im using 5/8 drill rod for the shaft and journal[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I cut another piece of 5/8 drill rod and faced both ends for an OAL of 0.394 x 2 + 0.630 = 1.418 which will be for the journal.  With the webs on 5/8 and ½ shafts everything is nicely lined up.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Using the 5C collet block to hold the crankshaft I cut a keyway about 2 1/8 long on each end.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I turned the crank journal to 0.501 on each end for the a length of 0.394, the web thickness.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I degreased everything, then applied red Loctite to the assembly and clamped it together.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]To pin everything together I drilled/reamed (0.1885) the shaft holes 0.80 deep and the journal holes 0.60 deep, degreased the holes, used red Loctite and put the 3/16 (micd at 0.1875) drill rod pins in place.[/FONT]






  [FONT=&quot]After a few hours I cut the bloody stumps off of the pins with a thin slitting saw and sanded the pins flush.  [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Now I have to remove anything that doesnt look like a crankshaft.  Note to self:  Dont cut the wrong shaft. I didnt, but someone posted here some years back of cutting the journal shaft out after all their hard work and Ive had nightmares about doing that ever since.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I put the crankshaft in a 5C collet block and cut the main shaft to clear the journal.  I used a 4 ½ diameter blade to do that cut. And I had just enough clearance to make the full cut.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]


  [FONT=&quot]Cleaned up the crankshaft and measured TIR on the end at around 0.008, not bad at the end of a 9 shaft.[/FONT]





  [FONT=&quot]I drilled the oil ports in both main bearings and installed them into their housings.  With all screws snug, I can turn the crankshaft by hand with no problem!  The ¼  28 NF hex bolts are holding the bushings in place for now.  Eventually Ill Loctite them in their housings.[/FONT]





  [FONT=&quot]OK, so far Ive made gears and a fabricated crankshaft, two new skills.  More to come before Im done.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]The cylinder is next and will be made from cast iron (Durabar).[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Thanks for looking in[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


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## AussieJimG (Sep 6, 2013)

Hi Phil,

In the words of Crocodile Dundee: "THOSE are pins!"

I used 1/8" pins on one of my crankshafts that I Loctited (green either 638 or 690) and then tried to improve the runout with a hammer (as you do). And that's when it fell apart.

It is Triumph as in motorcycle. I am about to put it on the market and want to get in a few farewell rides.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 6, 2013)

Jim,
Very nice bike.  I always like the Triumph bikes but back when I was riding, didn't have the cash for one, so I rode smaller Hondas.  Now I could probably scrape it together, but I wouldn't ride in my area.  Way too many distracted drivers (talking on the phone, texting, blindly obeying the instructions of their GPS etc.).

Seems like I'll be in maintenance mode for a while.  Today as I was turning the cylinder on my lathe I started getting a lot of chatter.  I had turned the major diameter of 60 mm without incident.  When I started turning the 38 mm register I got a lot of chatter.  I'm using a four jaw chuck with a live center.  I took the toolpost and compound apart and cleaned them but that didn't solve the problem.  

When I had the register down to its 38 mm diameter, without removing the work from the chuck I put a dial indicator on the register and I'm getting 0.005" runout.  I suspect my inexpensive 4 jaw chuck may have issues.  No point going forward until this is sorted out.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 6, 2013)

Philjoe5--I like the engine you have started on. I will follow with great interest.---Brian


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## AussieJimG (Sep 7, 2013)

Hi Phil,

I have been tidying up my Bonzer and have made a few changes. 

The window fell out of the fuel tank so I have redesigned the tank and made it much simpler. 

And the vapour carby gave erratic performance so I have reverted to John Williams' original one.

I have emailed you the drawings in both metric and imperial (converted metric) dimensions.

With a bit of luck I will have the new fuel tank finished and fitted before you get to that stage.

Jim


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 7, 2013)

Its quite an amazing stunt to fit two valves and a sparkplug on these model engine cylinder heads, isn't it!!! The engine I have been posting about for the last 2 months is a 7/8" bore (22mm) and there sure isn't much real estate there.---Brian


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 7, 2013)

Thanks Jim.  I'm thinking I won't be at the fuel tank 'till the snow flies 

I did get the 4 jaw chuck problem fixed.  After 6 years of fairly regular use, my chuck decided to start separating from its backplate!  Who'da thunk  I discovered this when I decided I'd better remove the chuck from the backplate to clean any swarf out from under it.  That's when I discovered two screws were not tight, and the other two each could take another half turn.

The bad news is my cast iron workpiece is ruined.  The good news is I have enough stock leftover to start a new one, which I did.  So far, so good.

I'm still undecided how to turn that middle section down but whenever I am in this position I think "fixture".

Thanks everyone for looking in and for your interest.

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Sep 7, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Its quite an amazing stunt to fit two valves and a sparkplug on these model engine cylinder heads, isn't it!!! The engine I have been posting about for the last 2 months is a 7/8" bore (22mm) and there sure isn't much real estate there.---Brian



You are not wrong there Brian, have you seen Arv (PutPutMan's) Tiny Four Stroke? I have an impressive collection of heads for Gus to collect and use as sinkers next time he is in Oz. Arv's bore is about 3/8".

I still don't have the engine finished.

Jim 

View attachment Tiny 9 Head -- rev B.pdf


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 7, 2013)

Brian, Jim,
You guys are scarin' me

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 7, 2013)

Don't be scared.--Just machine like porcupines make love---VERY CAREFULLY!!!


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 11, 2013)

I'm working on the cylinder now.  Got the cast iron ready for the drill.





Drill to 1 inch





Bore to 1.181" (30 mm)





I made a 30 mm dowel out of aluminum to test the bore.  I made this on the Logan lathe I kept out of the scrap heap





Some folks complain about cutting cast iron but I'll take it over aluminum any day.  I hate that stringy stuff you get from 6061.

Next I need to remove quite a bit of material from the center to make room for the water jacket.  Finally tap the #8-32 holes in the flanges on both ends.  I"ll post a picture of the cylinder when it's completed.

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Sep 12, 2013)

Blimey! That's some drill. 

But it is coming along well.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 13, 2013)

[FONT=&quot]I turned the cylinder around in the chuck and finished the major diameter.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I decided to do all the turning on the lathe at this point and finish with tapping the 8-32 threads on the cylinder ends.  The plans call for those threads to be 10 mm deep on 8 mm thick flanges, meaning theyre through holes.  Id rather tap through holes than tap blind holes so Im going to  remove material from behind the threads first, tap the holes second.  If this seems confusing some forthcoming pictures should clear this up.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I made an arbor to support the cylinder for turning the end flanges and removing the central portion.[/FONT]





[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]After lots of chips, [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]this is the final result[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I made a collar so I could scribe the 47 mm (1.850) bolt circle to keep me honest.  I calculated my x-y moves using trigonometry.  [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Holding the cylinder for tapping the threads on one end was easy using one of the arbors I made[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Now I fastened the cylinder to that bogus end plate I made a few weeks ago and tapped threads on the other end.  The holes on this end are not symmetrical to allow clearance for the spark plug.[/FONT]


[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]When I finished tapping I examined the threaded holes on the spark plug end.  They looked off.  The bolt circle is OK but is offset from the bore by 0.020+.  I dont like this.  I double checked all my measurements and cant find my error.  I had indicated off the cylinder bore so Im puzzled as to the source.  Thats troubling because Ive made a mistake which I can accept, but I dont know why, therefore, I havent learned anything!  Heres what the cylinder looks like mounted on the end plate
[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]It may be hard to see the offset but its there.    [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]At this point I think Ill move on and decide at some point how to make a new cylinder.  I remind myself that the definition of insanity is doing something the same over and over and expecting a different result.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]As I mentioned at the start of this thread, this will be a long build.  I am not in a hurry to get this engine built, just want a good runner.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 13, 2013)

I think there is something very, umm--Fishy, about using all thread rod as part of your turning set-up. I would guess that your reduced outer diameter is not concentric to the inner bore. Then you moved over to the drill and  picked up on outer diameters to zero your quill and start drilling the bolt patterns. I would guess that your bolt patterns are bang on concentric to the outer diameter you picked up on.---Brian


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 13, 2013)

Brian,
Sorry if I didn't make this setup clear.  The all thread is used to clamp two arbors that have most of their length turned to the bore diameter.  You are right about that setup not providing a means of turning dead true outer diameters, though they were fairly good, much better than 0.020".

When I went to drill and thread the second set of holes I picked up off of the bore, not the outer diameter knowing that was not a good reference.  

In hindsight, I think I need a better fixture to turn the outer diameters anyway and then maybe I can use it to hold the work for threading the flanges.

Thanks for the food for thought

Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 14, 2013)

[FONT=&quot]Well I had a eureka moment last night.  After checking my measurements I discovered the source of my error.  It was all in the calculations.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The way Ive always done a bolt circle layout is to use trig.  I usually locate on the bore or circle center and move my mill table in the appropriate x and y directions.  Ive never done an asymmetrical bolt layout like there is in Bonzer.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]So, in reference to the figure below, the two red circles represent the bolt holes that are asymmetric to the equally spaced remaining six bolt holes (blue and clear).  I started tapping the bolts at the red circle at about 2 oclock.  Then I went to the next red circle in a counterclockwise fashion.  The problem is that the next bolt hole, the blue circle at 11 oclock is not on the same y axis as the red circle at 1 oclock.  But I failed to change the y axis setting and that caused the error![/FONT]





[FONT=&quot]It's not too clear by looking at this sketch,  but it's there all right.
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Im feeling a whole lot better having learned something and now its time to get back on the horse.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 14, 2013)

Ah yes, sometimes us Cad guys who are blessed with a good software package forget just how tricky bolt circle trig can be. Twenty years ago, (pre-cad), I could have figured that one out standing on my head. Now I would probably be at a loss too.---Brian


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 16, 2013)

Well I've finished the cylinder and am mighty pleased with the results.  The bore looks good and there is no evidence of taper to within 0.001".  I used a different setup this time with a bull nose live center which I think improved results for turning the flanges.





If you look very carefully at my latest product and the previous one shown side-by-side here:





an experienced eye shows which one is not up to standards.  (Hint:  it's the one marked  BAD)

Time for a break.  The con rod or water jacket is next, whichever material I can dig up first.

Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Sep 17, 2013)

Hi Phil,

I have made the Mk2 fuel tank for Bonzer and found a problem with the design (clash of two holes) so I have made a couple of changes. I will send you the updated drawings.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 17, 2013)

Thanks Jim.  I've been thinking about the cylinder head and your mod to it so the spark plug comes in from the side.  Although you've made the claim that you haven't tried it, I think I'll go that route.  Worst case is it won't work, then I'll just go use the original design.

I've started the con rod today and I'm using some 7000 series aluminum for it.  I bought some of this stuff on eBay some years ago.  It machines very well.

Hopefully, when I'm finished with this build you can take your software and design an engine to use all the bogus parts I've made

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Sep 18, 2013)

I will be watching with interest to see how my side plug head works. I think the valve cages are the way to go as well; you can machine the mating surfaces on the cages and the valves at the same setting and they come out needing hardly any lapping.

And I think we all have just about enough dud bits to make another engine when the first one runs. I really should just dispose of the failures instead of keeping them.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 20, 2013)

[FONT=&quot]I have some series 7000 T6 aluminum that Ill be using for the con rod.  Its great stuff, and machines really well.  I also bought some of this aluminum in round stock to make a piston for this engine but more on that later.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]The con rod is two parts of course, with the end cap attached to the rod with 8  32 screws.[/FONT]

*[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]*

[FONT=&quot]Then the two critical holes are reamed 10 mm (small end) and drilled/bored 18 mm (big end).  For the small end I used a 0.375 reamer but bored the big end as specified in the plans.  
[/FONT]








[FONT=&quot]I did some calculations to locate the limit holes for radiusing and milling operations.  [/FONT]

*[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]*

[FONT=&quot]The rotary table is used to form the small end.  The angle of the con rod is between 1 and 2 degrees and I dont have an angle block in fractional sizes so I decided to scribe a reference line between the limit holes and mill to that line.[/FONT]

*[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]*

[FONT=&quot]The finished product is shown and is complete except for the bushings on either end:[/FONT]

*[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]*

[FONT=&quot]Ill work on the bushings this weekend.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Thanks for looking in[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


----------



## AussieJimG (Sep 20, 2013)

That's a fine looking conrod Phil. This is going to be one really good engine. I think I'll have to hide mine.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 22, 2013)

Decided to have a nice quiet day  in the shop making the bushings for the con rod.  It didnt turn out that way.:wall:

I started with a piece of 1 bronze and turned the major OD to 0.866.  Drilled and bored to 0.625 to fit the crankshaft journal.  I turned the minor diameter to 0.710 using an indexable HSS grooving toolbit.  I usually don't like to have that much overhang on the lathe but I really didn't want to shorten that nice piece of bronze.  Light cuts were taken accordingly.






I checked it for fit on the lathe using the end cap and it was nice and snug.

Then I split the bushing using my thinnest (0.032) slitting saw.






Everything was going nicely up to the point just before the bushing separated into 2 pieces.  Normally, just before separation takes place I slow the spindle speed down so that the separated piece doesnt fly off into the darkest corners of the shop.

Unfortunately, it just rolled off the mill vise and landed on the y axis leadscrew because the chip shield (blue mat) had slipped off the ways.  I tried fishing it out but it immediately became buried in 3 years accumulation of chips.  Here is where the sun hasn't shone for years










Now decision time.an hour to make a new part or assemble the shop crane and lift the mill to retrieve the part.  Since I knew I could never make that part that well again and I had accomplished all the careful, precise work for the day, this is what I did:




There was the part (not visible in this picture), in the farthest reaches of the underside of the mill base which was apparently engineered to trap bushing parts.  

Choice words were said!  In fact, a cloud of obscenities is likely to hang over southeastern Pennsylvania for quite a while.

But in the end, all was well.  Heres the con rod with bushings installed.  The end cap is not tightened in this picture and closes up completely, while the bushing does not.






The sequence I followed produces the saw kerf gap.  It seems like a good trick to have those bearing halves come together but youd need to do the slitting operation before the boring step.  How do most folks make a split bushing and does it really matter if the bushing doesnt close completely?

OK, some progress has been made (the mill was cleaned of accumulated swarf) and three parts are added to the completed list.

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Sep 23, 2013)

Some people (the ones who do a better job than me) slit the bronze bar, soft solder the pieces together, turn and bore the bearing and then melt the solder to separate the halves. But this means slitting a longer length of bronze bar than one needs and I am too mean to waste any of it.

So I put up with a gap in the bearing.

I find it very difficult to turn the outside to a neat fit in the conrod and the inside to a neat fit on the crankshaft. I am not above slipping a piece of paper between the bearing and the conrod.

And congratulation on a a nice clean milling machine.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 24, 2013)

I started turning the piston today.  I began with some 1.25" series 7000 aluminum and turned a 1.062" spigot on the end to fit a 5C collet.





I turned the piston to 30 mm, or 1.183" (actual) which was a good clearance fit in the cylinder.  For a steam engine this fit would have been the best I ever had.  But then I thought maybe with aluminum in cast iron I'd have an expansion problem with the engine at operating temperature.

I didn't want to remove the workpiece from the lathe before I talked to AussieJim for his advice.  So after a quick Skype session we decided to go with this fit.

Next, I drilled and bored out the internal section of the piston.









The piston skirt is about 0.060" thick and the head end of the piston is a rectangle with the short axis being about 5/8" so I drilled that diameter to depth on the lathe and made a flat bottom hole with a 5/8" center cutting end mill.  The picture above was taken after I removed the work from the collet chuck.  But before I removed it I cut the piston ring grooves.





With all lathe work accomplished I removed the work and collet from the lathe and put it in a 5C collet block, then marked the location for the gudgeon pin:





That's all the progress for today.  Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 24, 2013)

Help me out here.--30mm is 1.1811".   Your "actual" piston measurement is 1.183" which is .0002 oversize from 30mm nominal. I didn't see anywhere in the post what the bore of your cylinder is but you make reference to "A good clearance fit". When I make an i.c. cylinder, I hone the bore, then lap with a 0.999 dia. lap and 600 grit lapping paste.. Then I turn the piston to .001 under the cylinder bore, and lap the o.d. of the piston into the bore of the cylinder with #600 honing paste. What are you doing?


----------



## Philjoe5 (Sep 24, 2013)

Brian,
The nominal bore is 30 mm or 1.181".  I made a dowel of that size to test the bore for taper and didn't detect any.  This dowel seemed to have the same amount of clearance at either end of the cylinder.  

When I was turning this piston I set a target for 1.183" to see if it would fit the bore.  I always creep up on the bore that way.  It just barely fit, so I stopped there.  I don't have an accurate bore gauge so this is the approach I take to "estimate" bore size.  When the piston is finished I'll see how it goes all the way through the cylinder.

Phil


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## ShedBoy (Sep 24, 2013)

Looking good Phil. 

Brock


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## AussieJimG (Sep 24, 2013)

Fingers are crossed Phil

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 27, 2013)

[FONT=&quot]After turning the piston to its diameter I reamed the hole for the gudgeon pin 5/16.  Next, I milled out a rectangle in the piston to lighten it and for piston rod clearance.  This was a tricky operation because the end mill was mostly out of sight so I had to trust my handwheel settings and listen to the end mill cutting.  I had a close call when the 5C collet block slipped in the mill vise.  This happened because the grub screw seen in this photo (left facing) is about 0.002 proud of the collet block and it was facing the mill vise jaw.  I turned the collet block 90 degrees and finished the milling OK.[/FONT]





[FONT=&quot]Following the plans, the only work left for the piston is to tap two holes 5-40 for grub screws to hold the gudgeon pin in place. However, I came across a neat alternative in Malcolm Strides book.  The gudgeon pin is drilled through for to reduce its weight.  Then brass caps are made and inserted in the ends to prevent the pin from scoring the cylinder walls.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Here Im parting off one of the caps.  Because of my recent experience of having parts fly off into the bowels of my machinery, a paper towel under the spindle was used to catch the workpiece.  [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]This photo shows the caps installed, loctited in place[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]With the piston and con rod assembled, I wanted to check the piston fit in the cylinder.  With a bit of 10 wt oil for lubrication I worked the piston in the bore, cleaned it all up and performed this test which Ive done in the past when making steam engines.  The weight of the piston and con rod is being supported by a column of air and the friction between the piston and cylinder wall.  A slight nudge and the piston slowly descends with the air leaking past.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Ive known for some time that I didnt cut the key way in the crankshaft long enough for the valve gear, so I extended it using a 1/8 end mill.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Ive used keyways for flywheels in some of the steam engines Ive built.  Ive learned that in the trial assembly process it helps to use undersized keys that are easily removed.  So I made some undersized key stock out of brass for the valve gear and flywheels.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Ive now made quite a few parts for this engine.  But as Cogsy pointed out in his build of Brian Rupnows IC engine, the parts have to mate properly.  So this is a good time to assemble all the parts Ive made so far and make sure Im on my way to a working engine.  When thats happened Ill report back in.[/FONT]







[FONT=&quot]Thanks for looking in[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 27, 2013)

Well, it certainly looks good so far!!!----Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Sep 27, 2013)

Thanks Brian, but you know what they say about looks, especially with my low resolution digital pics.  When I get all these parts assembled and can turn the crankshaft with gears over I'll feel a lot better.

Phil


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## AussieJimG (Sep 27, 2013)

A gudgeon pin with little brass inserts? You are really taking this engine seriously aren't you Phil?

But it is looking good and the piston fits really well. I will pinch your idea of turning a spigot for the new piston I need for the current engine.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 27, 2013)

Jim,
After all the pain and suffering of making the piston I had 2 choices.  Tap some threads to hold the gudgeon pin, or make those little brass caps.  I haven't broken a tap in a long time, but the easy way out was to "engineer" the gudgeon pin.  Plus, it looks kind of sharp, don't you think?

Cylinder head and valve cages are next so I'm really going to have to be a bit more serious.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Sep 28, 2013)

I assembled all the parts I've made so far, including the gears.  I attached one of the spare flywheels I had on hand to make it easier to turn over the crankshaft.









Then, with my trusty assistant (SWMBO) filming, I checked my work to date:

 [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oy582vZb7u4[/ame]

Very happy with the progress.


My backup post "Fell off unicycle, dislocated shoulder, will be out of the shop for 3 - 6 months" will not be needed (yet)


Will be starting the cylinder head next.



Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 28, 2013)

Nice work. Feels good, doesn't it!!!


----------



## AussieJimG (Sep 28, 2013)

Philjoe5 said:


> My backup post "Fell off unicycle, dislocated shoulder, will be out of the shop for 3 - 6 months" will not be needed (yet)
> 
> Cheers,
> Phil



No Phil, you wont need the backup post but maybe some of us will. Perhaps we should start a thread for backup posts to see who can come up with the most imaginative excuse (dog ate my milling cutter etc).

It's looking good.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Sep 29, 2013)

Brian,
It sure does feel good, almost like when an engine is finished, but in this case, that's still far away.

Jim,
I've got a whole list of excuses ready just in case.  I'm studying the cylinder head and thinking about the valve cages now.  A guy named Darren from OZ gave me a good idea for the valve cages.  

I think it will be a while before I can report further progress.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 1, 2013)

I'm planning the cylinder head now while waiting for the stock to arrive.  Ausdier, a member of HMEM, kindly provided me with a drawing of a design he had thought to use for the original Bonza.  It's shown here:





I'm planning to make 1 piece valve guides and seats from bronze that screw into the cylinder head.  So I'll extend the guides shown in this figure and cut the valve seat into them all in one set up.  I haven't sketched this out yet, but if there's insufficient room to thread them in, I'll just press fit them in.  Also I'm planning to use a side mounted spark plug.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 3, 2013)

I finished making a fixture plate for the cylinder head by tapping eight 8-32 holes on a 1.850" bolt circle.





Then I took a scrap piece of aluminum that I'll be using to test some future machining steps for the cylinder head and drilled 8 clearance holes for the #8 screws.  I attached it to the cylinder to check it for fit which is good





The faint red letter "S" at 2 o'clock is where the spark plug will go.

The actual stock for the cylinder head arrived today so I should be getting started on it soon.

Thanks for looking in.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 5, 2013)

I started the cylinder and am working slowly since there seems to be a lots of places where I can ruin it.  I decided to use the rotary table to drill the eight #8 mounting holes.  In order to attach the work to the table, I turned the work to 3 diameters.  The smallest is a 25 mm register that fits in the rotab.  The middle diameter is a register of 30 mm that fits in the cylinder and the largest diameter is the head itself.  Finally, the small end was tapped 3/8 -16 so I could bolt the work to the table.  Shown here with the holes drilled





I must admit drilling holes on a bolt circle is pretty easy once you figure out how to attach the work to the table.

Then, convincing myself that no further machining was required on the rotab I removed the head, parted off most of the small end and faced it to length.  Then I checked it for fit on the cylinder.





Before I machine the cylinder head further I'm going to make a trial valve and cage assembly.  Then I'll tap the head to hold them.

I'll be a while because I'm winging it with dimensions

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Oct 6, 2013)

Watching with admiration.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Oct 14, 2013)

I spent last week preparing for Rough & Tumble's Fall Harvest show.  I met fellow HMEMer's Tin Falcon, cheepo45 and many other friends there including my friend Earl who took a photograph of an old steam engine, made castings and then built a working model!!  Sadly, this picture does not do his model justice but it was the only one I had:





Meanwhile, I spent time studying the valve and trying to decide how to approach making them.

The valve stem has 3 grooves for e-clips to hold the spring retainer.  Three rings allow coarse adjustment of spring tension.  I decided to thread the end of the valve stem 4-40, thread the retainer 4-40, and that will allow me to screw the retainer on for fine tuning spring tension.

First step was to take some 3/8" cold rolled, and turn a length of about 1/4" to 0.112", then thread the end 4-40 using a tailstock die holder.
Next I made a fixture that's tapped 4-40 and is chucked in my rotating tailstock drill chuck live center.





Next, I turned the appropriate length to 0.125" to fit the valve guide.  Then, I cut the valve seat using a D6 carbide brazed toolbit with a 45 degree angle.  I made this cut at very slow speed, lots of cutting oil and finally parted off the valve shown here.  The stem has a rough finish but the valves I intend to use will be made with more attention to finish.





This was a practice run to see how my setups would work and I'm satisfied they'll make a working set of valves.  So I'm off to the shop to make a pair of valves out of some 3/8" stainless (303) I have.  This will take some time since I'll also make the valve guides and I want to cut the seats on the guides and valves at the same time with the same machine settings.

Cheers,
Phil


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## cheepo45 (Oct 14, 2013)

Nice job! It was good to see you at the Rough and Tumble show.
                          cheepo45


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## Philjoe5 (Oct 14, 2013)

It was good talking to you too cheepo45.  I enjoyed hearing about your IC (Upshur) engine build and watching it run was a good motivator to keep me going.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Oct 17, 2013)

I'm still fooling around with valve cage designs using paper and pencil.  I'm getting closer to the final details.  Meanwhile, just to cut something, I made these jam nuts threaded 4-40, for the valve stems (0.125" diameter).





This is near the limit of my ham fisted ability to handle stuff.  Luckily, there are not too many parts on this engine of this scale.

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Oct 17, 2013)

All progress is progress Phil.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Oct 17, 2013)

Thanks Jim.  Unfortunately, that was yesterday.  Today I've managed to make a few contributions to the bronze recycling binoh:.  But, I did learn a few things along the way so all is not for naught (always wanted to use that word).

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Cogsy (Oct 18, 2013)

If you haven't made the valves yet Phil, you may want to consider a trick I recently learned from Brian Rupnow and leave the valve attached to a decent (1"+) piece of it's stock material. That gives you a nice, convenient piece to grip when you're lapping the valves. Once the lapping is done to your satisfaction you simply chuck the valve back into the lathe and part it to it's correct length. It's a heck of a lot easier than trying to use the tiny 1/8" stem to lap with.

I don't think I've commented on your build yet, but I'm following along and I have to say it's looking great.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 18, 2013)

Thanks for that tip for valve lapping Cogsy, and you too Brian if you're looking in.  I missed that one.  Seems to be a wealth of information around on HMEM.  

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2013)

Phil--I am watching. You are doing a fine job.--The whole valve building process was covered in my build of the "Rupnow Engine".---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 18, 2013)

Thanks Brian.  I do believe I'm going to make a pot of coffee and go through your build and others making your H&M and try to educate myself.  I know I'll find nuggets.  I couldn't have gotten this far without help from fellow HMEMer's and my friends at Kinzers Rough & Tumble.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 18, 2013)

I have a design for the valve cage that should work OK and will be easy to fit to the cylinder head.





There is a small thin flange on top that will rest on the cylinder head.  I milled a notch midway that will align with either the fuel intake port or the exhaust port.  The example shown here with valve inserted was made from brass, but the final product will be made of bronze.  I'm planning to make a pair plus spares.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Oct 19, 2013)

Hmmm ... interesting approach. If I understand correctly, you plan to insert the valve cage from the outside of the head. I pushed mine (on a different engine) from the inside to be sure that it fitted flush.

And you have cut a notch for the ports before inserting where I waited for the Loctite to set and then drilled through from the holes I already had in the head to break through the cages.

It must be the different hemispheres that cause we antipodeans to do things upside down. Possibly it is related to the direction in which the bath water goes down the plughole.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hi Jim,


> Possibly it is related to the direction in which the bath water goes down the plughole.


And you guys drive on the left side of the road

Well you did interpret my approach correctly.  I'm wondering about your comment:



> I pushed mine (on a different engine) from the inside to be sure that it fitted flush.


So I gather your valve cage didn't have a flange of any sort and just went straight into the head, is that right?  And, is there a problem if the valve or cage were a few thou proud of the cylinder head on the inside?

I think this will be the only part of the engine where I'm off plans so I appreciate the feedback.  

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 19, 2013)

Brian,
Actually I think I went through a pot of coffee, a few brewskis, and an oz of Irish Mist, but I did get through most of your 50+ pages of build.  I think you flew through all that while I was figuring out how to make gears.  Anyway, thanks for posting all that detail because it IS appreciated and is a great source of ideas.

The valve and guide stuff is good food for thought, especially the lapping part.

Perhaps If my Bonzer is a runner, I'll tackle your IC engine.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Oct 19, 2013)

Philjoe5 said:


> Hi Jim,
> 
> I think this will be the only part of the engine where I'm off plans so I appreciate the feedback.
> 
> ...



Horror of horrors! Your comment made me go and check the plans.

I thought there was a side plug head with valve cages in the Bonzer set but I had confused it with the Rino engine that I am (slowly) building at present. Rino does have a side plug head with cages but this is an improvement on Bonzer.

How embarrassing :wall:

Jim

Drawing of a modified head and a suggested valve cage were emailed to you this morning (with apologies for the omission).


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 19, 2013)

Jim, Brian,
After looking at your plans I decided it may be best to put the cages in from the combustion side of the cylinder head.  The combustion pressure will want to push the guides out of the head, so your design would prevent that from happening, mine wouldn't.  

I'm getting closer to completing this assembly of parts.  Having spent a month learning all about spur gears I'm not at all discouraged at my progress with this part of the build.  I knew it would be trickyscratch.gif

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 26, 2013)

I've been busy with the Bonzer but progress has been SLOW! I started this project thinking there were 3 areas that required the best work I could accomplish:  gears, valves and guides and piston rings.  So I'm really taking my time with the guides and valves.  This is WIP report for those items.

I decided to make 3 of these assemblies, two are required and 1 spare.  Here are the bronze guides, needing a bit of filing but otherwise serviceable.





After playing a bit with valve design and dimensions I've gotten through the better part of 2 valves.  Shown here before cutting the seat and trimming to length.





The completed valve shown was a practice piece using cold rolled steel.  The actual valves are stainless (303).  This work goes fairly slowly but I'm getting what I "Think" will be serviceable valves.  Time will tell.  One thing's for sure, I'm learning a lot and folks here have kept me on track.

I'm starting to have visions of a completed cylinder head dancing in my head

Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Oct 27, 2013)

They look real nice Phil. That dancing cylinder head is getting close.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 28, 2013)

Thanks Jim.

The valve cage assemblies are completely machined and will be "tweaked" once they're installed in the cylinder head.  Stainless (303) valves, bronze valve cages, brass spring retainer and jam nut.  Two required, and one spare.  The springs I've used presently are what I had on hand.





I'll use the Rupnow method of adjusting spring tension by rotating the engine and watching intake valve movement.  That's still in the future.

The next step will be to machine the ports in the cylinder head.

Thanks for looking in.  Comments always appreciated

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Oct 28, 2013)

Philjoe--You are doing nice work. I never cut the openings in the sides of the valve cages like you have done. Why?---Because I always use some green Loctite to assemble the valve cages and the cylinder head. After it has dried overnight, I cut the hole in the cylinder head and the valve cage at the same time. To do it any other way and use Loctite, you will end up with the inside of your valve guides full of Loctite when you assemble things.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 28, 2013)

Hi Brian,
I thought of doing the machining the way you described for the reason you stated.  But, in the past I've had good results with a smudge of loctite, then after it sets, a quick wipe with a bronze or nylon brush soaked with acetone to get it out of places I don't want it.

The reason I cut the port first is so that I can work on the cylinder head independently of the valve cage.  If I screw it up, and I have proved I'm capable of doing that, I can punch out a new cylinder head in an hour.  

The valve cages took me a lot longer to make.  Plus, if one of the cages or valves gets worn, I can just press out the old, press in the new.

BTW Brian, thanks for the tip of doing the guides first, followed by the valves.  Getting the valve stems to nearly the correct diameter, then finishing the job with a file worked fine for me.

I forgot to include a picture of the component parts so here they are:





The adventure continues.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Oct 29, 2013)

Hi Phil, I did it Brian's way as you know but I will be interested to see how your way works out.

When I built the other engine using valve cages, I drilled and tapped the ports in the head before installing the cages and then used a threaded guide to set up the head for drilling the cages. So I think I could replace the cages and drill through again. 

As long as the skin is removed from the cat ...

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 29, 2013)

Jim,



> I drilled and tapped the ports in the head before installing the cages  and then used a threaded guide to set up the head for drilling the cages


That's a good tip and one I hadn't thought of.  Well I guess if I loctite my valve in its guide you and Brian have given me some alternatives.  I'll post my results here, of course, but if something bad happens go here:

http://www.wgal.com/weather/sky-cams

and you will see quite an amazing blue cloud of obscenities that will have local meteorologists scratching their heads for years to come

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Oct 30, 2013)

Nah ... nothing will go wrong! What could possibly go wrong?

The skycam will show nothing but blue skies with silver linings.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 31, 2013)

Not a lot of work in the shop today.  But I did make a fixture plate to hold the cylinder head for its machining operations.

I through reamed two 5/16" holes for the cages, then drilled those holes out to 3/8" diameter to a depth of 0.645" to fit the profile of the cages.   

Then I drilled the connection to the spark plug hole 3/8" diameter to a depth of 0.60".

My 3/8" holes compare to the plans 9 mm (0.354").  I had laid out a scrap piece of ally to make sure these holes wouldn't intersect.  This may seem like a lot of effort, when pencil and paper or a drawing program would have settled this.  But doing this beforehand allowed me to determine what diameters to turn the guides to for a press fit.  I used the same cutting tools for the trial and the final work.  

I wanted flat bottomed holes, easily gotten with an end mill, but end mills often cut oversize holes.  So I used a 3/8" carbide end mill, which made a hole like a reamer, uniform and true to size as measured with a dowel pin, a close fit at 0.375".





Time to get out the metric tap for tapping 10 mm x 1 mm threads for the ports.

Note the black ink marks on the work to keep me honest.  The "S" is where the spark plug goes.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Nov 1, 2013)

The head is always the tricky part but you seem to have it well under control.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 4, 2013)

The side plug design is pretty slick Jim, and not so tricky.

I decided to machine the intake/exhaust ports without using a fixture, so I set them up in the milling vise in my usual fashion





Then I found the edge of the work.  With the right tools that was as easy as 1-2-3 hDe





I drilled all the ports using a "T" drill for the pilot and tapped them all 10 x 1 mm.  I think I did OK because I've got 3 holes on this side





and only 2 holes on this side, which seems right





And here's the finished product:





Honestly, this was way less problematic than when I first saw it in the plans.  Of course, this design hasn't been tested out but others have used the side plug with good results so I'm not worried (too much).

Now I only need to loctite the guides in place, and the head is finished.

I'm looking down the road a bit and thinking of using CI spoked flywheels for this engine.  I've got two choices in mind.  I've had good success with machining these in the past:





The larger one is 7" diameter, weighs 4 lbs, the smaller one is under 6" and weighs 2 lbs.  Is bigger better?

Thanks for looking in.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 5, 2013)

With a bit of coaxing, the valve cages were pushed into position and held with a drop of loctite.  After an hour I swabbed all inner surfaces with MEK to remove any excess.  

The valves were installed, shown here:









 and the cylinder head was installed on the cylinder





With a piece of tape over the spark plug hole there is definite compression when I turn the engine over so I think my valves are seating OK.  

I'm out of the shop while I ponder my next move.  I think I'd like to tackle the cam and exhaust valve linkage so I'll study the plans over the next few days.  Maybe some research on flywheel weights while I'm at it.

All comments appreciated and thanks for looking

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Nov 5, 2013)

That head looks great! So good in fact, that I am tempted to make one myself (when I get enough time).

Jim


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Nov 5, 2013)

Philjoe--You are doing nice work. I read your posts every time you put something up, and you are progressing very well. It's exciting, isn't it.---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 5, 2013)

Thanks Jim and Brian.  It is exciting to be making parts for the first time that really test the limits of my ability.  I'm encouraged that I have some compression at this point and I still haven't made the piston rings.  

I bought a 10 x 1 mm bolt that I can screw into the spark plug hole to test my valve seals.  A spark plug is on its way, but I haven't thought much about the ignition system, other than I think I want a points, coil, condenser, battery system.

I really thought I'd be fighting the valves and cylinder head work for a much longer period of time.  Which probably means something I think should be simple will take much longer to finish.  I remember going into the shop one morning to make a simple bushing.  Hours later, after 3 tries I finally made one that would work, but I honestly knew it was pretty sloppy.  So next day, with a fresh perspective I made number 4, which I was happy with.  

I still am undecided about my next step...valve gear, flywheel, piston rings?  I'll pick something fun!

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 7, 2013)

Just to prove I'm serious about building this engine I went out and bought a spark plug for it





It's kind of looking like an engine.  

Others that have made IC engines comment that compression is essential for a good runner.  So, I'm going after the valve gear followed by the piston rings.  No point in making flywheels or a governor if I can't get compression, right?

Meanwhile I'm playing with a new toy...an ER-40 collet chuck for my 10 x 22 lathe, which I'll give a full report on in the "Tools" forum soon.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 13, 2013)

[FONT=&quot]I was having a little trouble seeing how Id make the cam until I realized that the basic idea is to start by cutting  2 diameters on a piece of stock.  Then just cut away anything that isnt a cam.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I made the basic 2 diameter workpiece from some 1144 alloy steel.  Then I drilled it and bored it to fit the hub on the 60T gear.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I made a fixture to hold the work and set it in the mill vise at a 40 degree angle and milled the major diameter down to the minor diameter.  Flipped it over and did the other side.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]With the work still on the fixture I milled off most of the excess.  I color coded the work so I wouldnt add to the scrap bin, blue = keep this, red = remove this[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]I finished rounding the cam on the rotary table.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Finally, I tapped two holes 8-32 for grub screws.  Here is the cam with its 60T gear.  Ironically, the last part made alongside the first part made for this engine.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]


[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Thanks for looking in[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


----------



## Lawijt (Nov 13, 2013)

Hi Phil,

That is really good explained how too build a cam.
Thanks for that. I like those tips.

barry


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 14, 2013)

Thanks Barry.  I started digging around to find where I had the "two diameter" idea and it was from our very own Cogsy, posted here:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f26/cam-making-basics-21145/

If you look on the right hand side of my last photo, you can see part of an image of a cam with the red part to be removed.  This is a real mind bender because when I color coded my cam prior to milling I must have had a subliminal thought that went back to that post by Cogsy.  Anyway, I officially pass the kudos to Cogsy

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 17, 2013)

Work on the valve gear continues.  My immediate goal is to get the cam - push rod - rocker arm connection complete and see how my valve operates as I turn over the engine.  Seems like building an engine of this type is a series of short term goals that will eventually all add up to a running engine.

Making the push rod assembly was straightforward and only presented me with one item outside my comfort zone.  One end of the assembly is a connector with a 4 mm slot (0.157").  The easiest way to make this would be to use a 5/32" end mill, which I don't have.  I'm sure there is some good reason why single end mills in the US are usually sized by 1/16's while double end mills are sized in 1/32's???  

Anyway, I do have a slitting saw that's 0.051" thick and 3 x 0.051" = 0.153"!





I tested the slot width after 3 passes of the saw by using a #22 drill (0.157") and it fit the slot.

Making the rest of the pushrod went smoothly.





The rocker arm and its mounting bracket are next while I await delivery of some 16 and 14 gauge steel for the cam follower and bracket.

Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 21, 2013)

Some days you go into the shop planning to make a part that requires quite a few operations.  At step #2 in a sequence of about 20 steps you mess up.  Then you decide to either give it up for the day or make something simple.

Like the exhaust pipe 





Make sure it fits because it's been that kind of day




Oops!  attached here to the wrong port!  OK, I had a pretty good day after all, I can fix this

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Nov 23, 2013)

Some days you are the dog, some days you are the lamp post. Looks like today was a dog day for you.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 23, 2013)

Yep Jim, another dog day today.  On top of that, I saw my first baby "roo".  Of course, when I told my friends I saw a baby "roo" hopping around in a friend's backyard today, they told me to start drinking carrot juice instead of budweiser.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Nov 24, 2013)

I'm making the cam follower for the engine.  It consists of 2 outside plates that are 1/16" thick, that sandwich a roller bearing that the cam rides against and two pivot pins.

I decided to make the plates first, 2 are required and 1 spare.  I don't have a lot of experience machining thin stock and pondered how to make these.  I started by marking out the three holes for the pivot pins/bearing.





Once I drilled these holes I decided to make a 4th plate so I could bolt the plates together and have a workpiece that's 1/4" thick.





Then it was just a matter of sawing and milling to get the roughed out plates.





These look a lot like corner brackets you can buy for $0.25 apiece!  That would make my labor worth about $0.05 per hour, a bit under minimum wage

Finally, I had to round off the corners.  I was going to use the bench sander with filing buttons for this job.  But the bottom (largest) hole would need the rotary table to get around to the stem.  So I got out the rotab and did them all that way.  Years ago I made a fixture for the rotab and have made all kinds of fittings to hold a workpiece down.  The fittings are various fractional diameters.  Once I mount and position the fixture it's easy to attach my work to it for rounding off.





Finally the nearly finished plates.




A little touch up with the die filer to clean the sharp edges and they'll be done.

Making the pivot pins, and bearing will be a nice followup to the multi-step process for the plates.

Thanks for looking in.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 1, 2013)

I've been working on the exhaust valve operating mechanism.  My current goal is to have an operating exhaust valve.  There's a passel of small parts to make.  

Here's progress so far:





I have a few more parts to make, rocker arm and mount, a few pivot pins then I can test the whole mechanism.  Until the exhaust valve is operating properly no point in going forward.

I stopped midstream today to do some overdue PM on the small Grizzly mill.  There is satisfaction that goes along with a nicely tuned up piece of machinery.

I will only return when I have an operating exhaust valve.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Dec 2, 2013)

Just a few more parts and it will run

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 2, 2013)

Hi Jim,
Thanks for checking in and the encouragement.

I'm looking at possibilities for flywheels.  What do you think about these?

http://www.martinmodel.com/MMPflywheels-subfiles/FW060-6S-T-RG-XXXX-CI.html

They're 2.5 lbs apiece.  Is that a bit much?  

With a 5/8" diameter crankshaft I need to watch the hub dimension.  I could also make my own but I'd need a hefty cutoff from my cast iron source and at 5 lbs/in, a 6 inch piece runs 30#, if they have it.

I've asked Jan Ridders for a drawing of his vapor carb.

http://ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_benzinedamp_carburateur/dampcarburateur_frameset.htm

I think I'll try the model out with that carby.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Dec 3, 2013)

Those flywheels look great Phil, they should turn up nicely.

I turned mine from square mild steel 1" thick cut off from a bar by the steel supplier. Lots of interrupted cuts and then a couple of garbage bins full of blue swarf.

Your way is better.

Jan Ridders' vapour carby is a good way to start. Chuck Fellows built one using a Pimento Jar - you might find it on HMEM (or a PM to Chuck).

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 3, 2013)

Hi Jim,


> couple of garbage bins full of blue swarf.


I think I may have been there  





I do have Chuck's pimento jar bookmarked, thanks

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 8, 2013)

I've reached another goal, sort of, and that was to have a working exhaust valve train.  With all the parts assembled and a temporary cam set screw I'm able to actuate the exhaust valve by rotating the camshaft:





A few problems have surfaced, though nothing I can't fix.  The rocker arm mount position needs to be accurately placed and I can't move it small amounts once it's installed because the mounting screw is inaccessible.  The arm is only 0.125" thick and I'm thinking of remaking one that's thicker  at least where it contacts the valve stem.  Then I can get the mount close to where it needs to be and locktite it in place.

Another problem is the cam follower.  As I made it the tolerances are too sloppy so it has a lot of side play.  Now that I see where it's position is, I can make a new pivot pin to much closer tolerance.

I also want to add about 3/4" to the valve rod length because it's only attached at either end with a few threads.

So, nothing too serious to worry about and considering all the parts in this assembly, a few remakes are to be expected.

Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Dec 9, 2013)

I don't recall how I adjusted the rocker arm, I think I set it up with the screws just pinched up and then took it off to tighten it. I do remember that the positioning was critical; the original engine had a double bend in the valve rod taking it under the cylinder and I wanted to eliminate that.

Sorry about the valve rod length, as I think I mentioned, I didn't have Alibre when I built the engine so the drawings were done from the finished engine. I probably measured it incorrectly.

Cabin Fever is still about 18 weeks away so you have plenty of time;D

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 9, 2013)

Hey Jim,



> Sorry about the valve rod length


Actually 100 mm works OK, as you specified.  I noted the original Bonza used 112 mm.  I think 112 mm will allow me to fully thread those end connectors on which hopefully will add rigidity.



> Cabin Fever is still about 18 weeks away


Man, you are really applying the pressure *bang*.  Hey, would you settle for a simple steam engine instead?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 10, 2013)

The exhaust valve train is a relatively delicate assembly.  I studied the action and found a few connections that needed a bit of adjusting and I'm very pleased with their operation now.  

I think the only mod I'll go ahead with is a thicker rocker arm to give me just a bit of wiggle room for the contact area of arm - valve stem.

I'm also just now understanding the governor operation.  I'll add that after I have an operating engine.

The next item to tackle will be the piston rings.  I made one for the last engine I built, a steam engine that I operate on compressed air.  I don't think I tested my ability to make one for an IC engine but I am a persistent fellow.  That, and my access to a good supply of inexpensive CI means sooner or later, I should have some good results to show

As usual, thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 13, 2013)

Couldn't help myself.  When you have a steam engine just sitting there and you want to see how your IC valve train will work, well just find a pulley, a drive belt and this is what you get:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_zlgVzIqxM&feature=youtu.be

Not elegant, but it works

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Cogsy (Dec 14, 2013)

Very cool. Now you just need a sprag clutch on the driven pulley and you have yourself a steam powered starter motor!


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 15, 2013)

Thanks Al.  Had to see what a Sprag Clutch was.  Seems complicated  but clever.

I've made two sets of four piston rings, the sets differ by 0.004" thickness.  I made these using a technique some of my fellow modellers described to me.  And I think Model Engineering magazine had an article in early 2013 with the same process.

Basically, make the OD of the ring oversized (by 0.060" in my case).  Make the ID of the ring about 0.006" more than the ring groove base in the piston.  Part the rings, split them by a number of techniques, file the ends smooth.  Make a clamping fixture, clamp the ring so its proud of the fixture with the ends butted.  Turn the ring to the bore size.

Here's a picture sequence:

Drill out the cast iron




bore to size




Turn the OD to size, then part the ring off.  The ring is in the foreground here, and the very thin ring behind it falls off the workpiece when a very slow feed rate is used near the end of parting.  Almost no burr is left on the ring.





I split the ring with a 0.020" thick slitting disk:





Here's the piston, 2 sets of rings and the clamping fixture





And the ring in the fixture ready for turning.  In this picture I haven't closed the ring gap yet





Next few days I'll be doing some turning, fitting and perhaps I'll make a ring compressor so I can get the piston in the cylinder.

Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Cogsy (Dec 15, 2013)

Philjoe5 said:


> Had to see what a Sprag Clutch was. Seems complicated  but clever.


 
Oops, bit of jargon from my bearing industry days slipped in. You can get 'one way bearings'  which incorporate a sprag clutch internally, so we just called them a sprag as shorthand. Easy to buy, many sizes available and very useful. Drive the bearing backwards and it will turn the shaft with it, when the engine starts it will overrun the bearing freely. Just a bit of info to tuck away for future use.

If I haven't already said so, your engine is looking fantastic, can't wait to see it running.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 15, 2013)

Thanks Al.  I broke 2 piston rings turning the OD.  Very light cuts, 0.003" at a time only.  A bit more and they break.  I got two rings on the piston, and got the piston into the first cylinder (botched) I made.  That should act as a ring compressor so I can push the piston into the "real" cylinder.  

Making piston rings seems like 50% science and engineering, 50% art and 50% dumb luck 

Still on the learning curve.  The carby will be a challenge.  Jan Ridder's vapor carb, Brian Rupnow's check valve.  So I've got Australia, Canada, Holland and the USA involved in this project.  If it doesn't run there'll be an international "incident".

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Dec 16, 2013)

You are getting a bit good at the photographic tutorials. That one will be useful.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 16, 2013)

Thanks Jim.  

I got the engine assembled with all the parts I've made so far.  I really have to study this engine to get the valve operation working properly.  

I know the valve won't normally be fully open at TDC but I found the exhaust valve will hit the piston at TDC, is that normal for the design?  If so, eventually I'll want to make the attachment of the cam to its gear hub permanent.

I can get compression if I really put tension on the valve springs, but then the cam slips when it starts to lift the valve.  I'll have to fiddle with some other springs and also play with the valve rod length.

But the good news is "compression" which means the valves and piston rings are working.  Whether they're up to the job remains to be seen.

So it seems I'm about ready to order the flywheel castings.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 17, 2013)

> I know the valve won't normally be fully open at TDC



Did a bit of reading Malcolm Stride's Book "Miniature IC Engines" last night.  The exhaust valve is normally open at TDC so valve contact with piston means my valve travel was too far.  

That was easily fixed today by adjusting the effective push rod length.  So now I have compression, with a little flywheel bounce back, valve operation looks good. 

Is the compression good enough?  I guess time will tell.  It wouldn't be a tragedy if I had to go back and make better valves/seats or piston rings.  The way things are fitting together keeps me motivated.

I know all this has probably been covered hundreds of times in other posts but until 5 months ago I never thought I'd be making an IC engine.  One of these days I'll need to spend some time reading some of those.

I'm going to start on the Ridder's fuel tank/carby as soon as I can locate a source of acrylic or glass round disks for the end window.  Ebay sellers list them by the pack of 100, but I'd like to find just a few.

Thanks for looking in.  As usual, comments and advice are welcome

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 17, 2013)

Philjoe--Go to your resident watch repair guy. He will have a selection of different sizes for watch crystals (as in pocket watch). A trick that I found out with i.c. engines--Hook everything up, mount your gas tank and sparkplug, set your timing to where you think is right, turn on your ignition, then drive the engine at about 500 rpm with an electric motor and a v-belt set up. That way you can tweak the carburetor and timing settings until you get the engine firing consistently. Once it has ran this way for 5 minutes or so, it will develop a tremendous increase in compression and start to run on its own. The combustion pressure when the engine begins to fire seems to do miracles for sealing the valves completely, even if they had a small leak to begin with.--Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 17, 2013)

Thanks for the tip on the carby window Brian.  I've also had an offer by a HMEM member to make one by laser cutting from a sheet of acrylic.  What a great bunch of guys here.

I remember your post about running in the engine Brian.  IIRC you posted a video or at least described it in detail.  That's encouraging because I have some compression now so adding to it can only help.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 17, 2013)

A little more fiddling tonight with valve spring tension and I'm getting the intake valve to open while I spin the flywheel by hand.  

I put a restrictor on the intake port that will be part of the Ridder's carby air makeup air valve.

All of a sudden it occurs to me...carby and ignition and I'm there.  I'm getting pretty stoked.

Geez Louise, I gotta go and buy some (Coleman) gas!;D;D;D;D

Oh yeah, flywheels and the water tank too.  It'll be a while

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 22, 2013)

I've completed all the parts for the Ridder's carby and loosely assembled them.  All I need now is the acrylic disk for the window, coutesy of HMEM member GailinNM.  Once that arrives I'll put the carby together permanently with some adhesive.





I wasn't able to smuggle a pimento jar out of the Kitchen, my wife uses those types of jars to store spices.  So I made the tank out of some aluminum pipe I had on hand.  Besides, when she saw the finished engine with one of her spice jars full of fuel I'd be busted

I've started to acquire ignition parts.  I went to a small engine repair shop and got some breaker points and condensor.  Last time I bought breaker points was in 1983 when I did a tuneup on my pickup.  30 years and I've not advanced one whit.

A friend loaned me an ignition coil from a Deutz tractor to try.  I need to make a cam for the breaker points and have no clue how much lift I should give it so I'll play around with that.

As soon as I had the valve train and piston rings in and established I had some compression/vacuum I purchased a pair of flywheel castings from Martin Models.  When they arrive I'll be busy for a week finishing those.  

Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2013)

Philjoe--The ignition cam only needs about 0.060" of lift. It doesn't even have to be cam shaped. Just take a 1" diameter disc the width of the rub block on the points and drill a hole offset 1/32" from center for the crankshaft, and put one set screw in to hold it in position on the crank. The setscrew can be centered on the face of the disc and pass under the center of the rubbing block on the points without any problem.---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 23, 2013)

Thanks for that tip Brian.  I like the KISS principle.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Dec 23, 2013)

That's a good looking fuel tank Phil, much better than the Pimento jar.
And the ignition is coming along too!
It should run with one flywheel if you can't wait to machine the other one.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 24, 2013)

> It should run with one flywheel if you can't wait to machine the other one



Thanks Jim.  That's good to know in case I botch one up.

The acrylic disks have arrived and they fit perfectly.  Thanks GailinNM.  That finishes the carby except for Brian Rupnow's check valve.  I just received the steel balls for making that.

The flywheels have arrived and look super.

If I was a pessimist I'd be telling myself, no need to make the water tank, this engine will probably only run for a few minutes anyway.  BUT I'm an optimist, so I started on the water tank and will post pictures of that item when completed.

Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 26, 2013)

Had one of those days in the shop where I learned something but didn't make anything.

I'm making the water tank which is a bit over 3" diameter (80 mm).  I found some 3" (nominal OD, actual is 3.5") aluminum pipe.  At first I gripped the workpiece on the inside jaws of a 6" four jaw chuck.  Turned the OD using a bullnose center







When I flipped the work around I ended up with a very bad junction on the OD.  I do not expect this using a 4 jaw independent  chuck.


I found that the inside jaw capacity of this chuck is just over 3".  So I thought maybe I wasn't getting a good grip on the work, so I switched to the outside jaws.  A bit better result but still an unacceptable junction.  At one point I noticed when facing the work, the inside bore was not concentric to the OD.


When I put the bullnose center back in the bore and tuned the lathe on I could see the very slightest wobble of the center.  So the bullnose was part of the problem causing the work to wobble while turning the OD.


I bored the center about 0.030" out on one end since I need to eventually expand the bore anyway.  Put the bullnose in place, turned the OD as far to the chuck as I could.  Switched the work around, bored out the end true, put the bullnose in place, set the handwheel for the OD and the junction is almost invisible.







I'm sure I could have made an OK water tank with end plates.  But I really didn't want to move on until I understood what was going on.


Sometimes what seems like a simple straightforward machining operation throws you a few curve balls.


Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Swifty (Dec 27, 2013)

(Quote)When I flipped the work around I ended up with a very bad junction on the OD. I do not expect this using a 4 jaw independent chuck.

Did you use an indicator when you turned the piece around in the 4 jaw chuck, indicating off the part that you had already machined, or did you just put the pipe centre back in and rely on that for getting it central.

Paul.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 27, 2013)

Hi Paul,

When I flipped the work around I indicated off of the machined surface.  That was the puzzler, but I'm confident I traced the problems down.  Whenever I've turned down stock in a 4 jaw and had to machine the entire outside diameter I always get a junction that's almost impossible to spot.

On these hobby lathes (mine, anyway, a 330 pounder) there's enough flex in the tailstock so that a bullnose center placed into an eccentric bore will put a wobble in the work.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Swifty (Dec 27, 2013)

Phil, with the short piece that you are turning, using a centre is a bit of overkill. It seems that the centre was causing your problems.

Paul.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 27, 2013)

Paul,
I'm sure you're right.  In hindsight, I had chatter using the inside jaws, so I used the center to reduce it.  Then went to the outside jaws when the junction was bad, then finally traced all my woes to the center being used with an eccentric bore.

I tend to use a center unless it's not physically possible or when I have more than 1.5x diameters sticking out of the chuck.

I never turned pipe before and made the bad assumption that the bore was true.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 27, 2013)

I finished making the water tank and the end plates.  Parting the first end plate was an adventure with the amount of stock sticking out of the chuck so I used a center to get most of the way through, then finished the cut without the center





The tank with one end plate





And the tank installed on a "bad" cylinder but with the appropriate external dimensions:

One view:




and the other end:




Your plan dimensions are dead on AussieJimG!

I still need to mill a hopper port in the tank.  Otherwise, I'll fill the tank with water (or sodium metal) and hermetically seal the tank and be done with it.  All right, I'll make a hopper port.

Check back in a few days.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 28, 2013)

Moving right along, the water tank pieces have been completed:





And shown from the cylinder end





and the head end





The tank is loosely put together while I determine whether it can be permanently fixed and still slide over the cylinder.

T(h)anks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 28, 2013)

Now that last picture is very interesting!!! How do you seal the rectangular box to the outer cylinder so its water tight?


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 28, 2013)

> How do you seal the rectangular box to the outer cylinder so its water tight



I'll probably use JB Weld to put the tank together.  It's the same color as ally and blends right in.  Then some Permatex gasket compound to seal the joints between the tank and cylinder.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Dec 28, 2013)

It should slide right over.
You can just see the JB Weld and it is watertight.
I was lucky to have a length of 50x50 Al tube with the radiused corners.

It looking good, not long now.

Jim


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 29, 2013)

Thank you for answering that.---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 29, 2013)

With a bit of filing on the corners, the square ally tube fits nicely into the hopper.  Thanks for the info Jim, I was hoping it would slide over but wanted to be sure.

Many years ago I built this 8' dingy in my basement.  Only one way out.
I had about 1/16" clearance in the doorway but managed to remove it.  





Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 30, 2013)

I started permanently assembling the water tank today using some 6 year old JB Weld I had laying around.  Still sets up like new.

I made a batch of oilers and put them in place.  I made them with some 7/16" brass hex stock.





Won't get to the flywheels until next year.  Which reminds me have a Happy and Healthy New Year everyone

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Dec 30, 2013)

Looks great so far. I'm suprised at the 6 year old JB working.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Dec 30, 2013)

Steve,
I've had mixed results with T-88 type epoxies.  I built the boat shown in post #139 of this thread in 1983 and used an epoxy supplied by Chem Tech of Chagrin Falls, OH.  I still have some of that epoxy and it sets up perfectly after over 30 years.  

On the other hand I've bought epoxies at the local hardware store for quick repairs that come in those double syringe applicators and they won't set up properly after having been opened and stored for just a few months.

I don't know if JB Weld is in this class of epoxies but it is great stuff.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 1, 2014)

I had one of those "Oh geez" moments in the shop today.  We all know that a mere 0.001" (or less) of metal can bring us mortals to tears.  

With the engine in a partially assembled state (post #140) I didn't want to disassemble it to fit the water tank.  So the trial fit you see in post #134 is on my first cylinder that had the misplaced mounting screw holes for the head.

Now that the tank is (permanently) assembled I realized I better check it for fit on the "real" cylinder.  At first it seemed like it was toast but a little wiggling around and presto:





Man, that was close and just luck really that it fit.  We're talking slipping a tank end plate of 56 mm, over a flange ring on the cylinder of 56 mm.  When I machined  both pieces I must have kept it in mind to slightly overbore the end plate and overturn the flange.  

I hope this is a good sign for 2014

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 1, 2014)

Philjoe--The more you do, the more it impresses me. You are doing fine work, and that is an excellent looking engine!!!----Brian


----------



## AussieJimG (Jan 1, 2014)

Fourteen weeks to Cabin Fever (or is it 13). Bags of time.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 1, 2014)

Thanks Brian and Jim.  

I made a device that fits my portable drill and attaches to the crankshaft today.  Gave it a nice ride and maybe it's my imagination but that seems to have increased compression.  I do get a bounce back on the flywheel as the compression stroke starts but it does seem weak.  Time will tell.



> Fourteen weeks to Cabin Fever



Jim, it's 22 degrees F and you've got me sweatin'*club*

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 2, 2014)

I've been contemplating the ignition system.  It doesn't seem complicated, but keep in mind my knowledge of electrical components can be summed up this way:

Electrons flow through a wire and make electricity.  There should only ever be 2 wires - one to carry the electrons to the "device" and one wire to carry them away.  After that it's all fuzzy.

I'll eventually figure it out like making gears, but just bear with me on this.

I'm considering a simple cam activated micro switch.  Something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TEMCo-HEAVY...109?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5657c343bd

I know the spark happens when the breaker points open, so with a microswitch do you get the spark when the switch is switched off?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 3, 2014)

Philjoe--If you are using a conventional 12 volt coil and 12 volt battery, the spark occurs when the points open. However, that switch won't work very long with a conventional ignition system. If you are using a cdi, then the spark still occurs when the points open. So----That switch must be a "normally closed" style of switch, which gets "opened" by the cam.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 3, 2014)

Thanks Brian.  Yes, I'm planning to use a battery,  coil, points ignition system.  So I'll buy a set of points with a rub bar and make a cam for it.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 3, 2014)

Philjoe--I use points off an old Chrysler product. They work very well and are easily adaptable to these small engines. If you want part numbers, etc. you can look up my build on the Kerzel engine, the Webster, or the Atkinson or the Philip Duclos "Odds and Ends" engine that I have posted about. Don't forget to buy a condenser to go with the points.---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 3, 2014)

Thanks for the tip Brian.  In my usual fashion, when I read those threads, I thought I'd never be building an IC engine so I didn't file that information.

The latest On the Bonzer is that if I drive it with my portable drill I can see the intake valve working.  

I'm permanently assembling the fuel tank/carby today

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 5, 2014)

Having received these 2 beauties from Martin Models:





I let the fun begin.  Clocked the flywheel as best as could with TIR of 0.020" which I think is darn good for a casting.  You can see the sacrificial ally spacers to prevent cutting into the faceplate





A wise sage told me once to get good results with a flywheel do everything you can on one side.  So I've got the OD, the hub, the rim recess and the bore finished before I remove it from the faceplate:





Beautiful castings, annealed, no hard spots, no voids.

I have lots more work to do and will post when these are finished.  I'm making 2 of them.

Thanks for looking

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 6, 2014)

The flywheels are nearly finished.  They've been machined true on all surfaces, and the keyways are cut.  I installed them on the crankshaft to make sure the keys fit in the keyways.  I still need to put in set screws to hold the keys:





It looks more like an engine every day.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Jan 7, 2014)

That was quick work and they are looking good.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 7, 2014)

Thanks Jim.  I got the set screw holes tapped and need to clean up the castings a bit.

I'm working on making a stand for the carby out of ally.  Nothing fancy, just to keep it from hopping all the way to OZ.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Generatorgus (Jan 10, 2014)

Hi Phil, I'm just catching up to present on your build.
Coming along beautifully, looks like you should have it done for CF, I'll be looking forward to seeing it in person.

GUS


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 10, 2014)

Hi Gus,
Thanks for the comments.  Are you going to the winter get together at Kinzers?

BTW How's the Wyvern running these days?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Generatorgus (Jan 12, 2014)

When is the Kinzer show, work allowing I'd like to go?

I reassembled the Wyvern a couple weeks ago after making a new carb and some other improvements.
It starts, but it seems the timing is way advanced and not responding to adjustment the way it should. I'm thinking on replacing the sensor.
I started another build, much simpler than the Wyvern and no the Wyvern is playing second fiddle, but I'll get to it, no rush.

GUS


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 12, 2014)

Hi Gus,
The winter get-together is Saturday Feb 8th.  Hope to see you there.  There's a 1 in a 1,000,000 odds I'll have the Bonzer running by then

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 13, 2014)

I'm moving ahead but slowly.  I'm off plans here because I'm using a points, coil, battery ignition system instead of CDI.  So I made a cam for the points with a lift of 0.060" per Brian's recommendation.  Then instead of buggering up my engine side plate I took a scrap of ally and played around with dimensions for mounting the points.

As you can see from the picture I would have made a mess of my side plate if I'd gone with my first estimate.





Gettin' close,

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 13, 2014)

Phil--Just so you know---The cam doesn't always have to be in contact with the points. It can just "bump" them open with the high point on the cam. The points only need about .030" of air gap between them when they are fully open to work satisfactorily. ---Brian


----------



## robcas631 (Jan 13, 2014)

I like the name Bonza. Outstanding work!


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 13, 2014)

Thanks Brian and Rob.  I noted in Stride's book on IC Engines that a point gap of around 0.020" was recommended.  They're adjustable, so I'll keep it around the 0.020" - 0.030" to save the battery.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## robcas631 (Jan 13, 2014)

That is a amazing Dingy! You are a man of many talents. I built one back in 2001.


----------



## robcas631 (Jan 13, 2014)

Phil,

 You are very talented! I enjoyed reading this post and took notes. I learned a lot! Keep up the outstanding work!


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 14, 2014)

Thanks Rob.  That's a nice looking boat, a 10 footer?

At one time I had my eye on building a 20 foot diesel trawler style but never found a barn I could build it in.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 14, 2014)

I'm placing the engine and carby on some 3/8" ally and trying to decide on a convenient layout.  Still playing with the electrics and will have that sorted out soon enough.

This is the last photo of the pile of parts that resembles an engine.  





Now I've got to disassemble it and take care of a passel of details that I left for last.  Oil holes, loctite some bushings, add threaded holes to the engine frame for mounting to the base + stuff I'll think of (hopefully) before a final assembly and a test run. 

I could use some advice on the spark timing.  Should it be just before, just after or at TDC?

Thanks for looking

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 15, 2014)

These engines like a lot of advance. Try it at about 20 degrees before top dead center.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 15, 2014)

Thanks Brian.  That'll be my starting point

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Jan 15, 2014)

Oh boy! That's one good looking engine.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 15, 2014)

Thanks Jim, I'm hopeful it IS an engine and not just a collection of engine parts.

From Webster:
*en·gine*

  [en-juh
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







n]  
noun 1. a machine for converting thermal energy into mechanical energy or power to produce force and motion. 


Cheers,
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 20, 2014)

I've got the ignition wired up and timed.  I've got the exhaust valve opening just before BDC.  I have a driver attached to the crankshaft.  Not yours Brian, I was too anxious to try a test run.  But I'm definitely in need of yours soon and that's going to get done during tomorrow's snowstorm.

When I squirt a little fuel (a milliliter) into the tube on the intake manifold and spin the engine, it runs off the drill for maybe 10 seconds, then it starts to fire and may pop as many as 10 times, then stops firing.





I need a reality check here.  I think what's happening is that initially the mixture is too rich to fire, leans out and fires, then becomes too lean.  Is that reasonable or am I dreaming?

Once I make Brian's driver I'll hook up the vapor carby and go from there.

Advice appreciated

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 20, 2014)

Philjoe--You really can't tell anything until you get some form of carb on there. The fact that its firing at all is a very good sign. What is your plan for a carb? ---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 20, 2014)

Brian, I'm using Jan Ridder's vapor carby





I'm ready to hook it up but thought I'd test the timing first.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 20, 2014)

I have my fingers crossed for you!!---Brian


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## necchiom (Jan 20, 2014)

With compliment Phil for the awesome work!

Moshe


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 21, 2014)

Thanks Moshe.  I like your avatar -  my 2nd favorite character after the roadrunner

Well thanks to the snowstorm (10" forecast) I had a good day in the shop making Brian Rupnow's engine starter.  Just one step closer to the finish line





Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 21, 2014)

Nice job, Phil--Let me know how that works for you.--Brian


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## AussieJimG (Jan 21, 2014)

Philjoe5 said:


> When I squirt a little fuel (a milliliter) into the tube on the intake manifold and spin the engine, it runs off the drill for maybe 10 seconds, then it starts to fire and may pop as many as 10 times, then stops firing.
> 
> Cheers,
> Phil



This engine is so willing to run that if you don't let it, it will start of its own accord.

Happy dance any time now.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 21, 2014)

> This engine is so willing to run that if you don't let it, it will start of its own accord.


Last night I had a dream that I got the engine running.  Then I heard a noise coming from the basement, like an engine running.  That WAS part of the dream right?:hDe:

Cheers.
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 22, 2014)

Here's where I'm at with this engine.  Using the starter designed by Brian, which works great BTW, the engine seems to fire at times and then doesn't fire at all when I squirt fuel into the intake manifold.  

I connected up my version of a Jan Ridder's vapor carb .  I've tried the air bleed adjustment lean and rich but no go, usually not even a pop.  I know I'm sucking air through it because through evaporation the tank gets very cold.  I checked the spark and it's yellow and fires consistently.  I've tried 20 degrees to 5 degrees before TDC for the spark.  Exhaust valve lift starts around 10 degrees before BDC.  I've varied that up to 0 degrees before BDC.  

The intake valve sucks open and closed when I spin the engine.  Thinking maybe I didn't have a good cylinder head seal, I remade the gasket for that this evening and will give it a try tomorrow.

Did I overlook anything?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Generatorgus (Jan 23, 2014)

Congrats Phil, You have entered into the Twilight Zone of IC engine building.:hDe:
It can be a very humbling experience.
You spend months making parts and are encouraged by the successes in your machining. You get all parts assembled, then :fan:the frustration starts.

It took me building a second engine to learn how to get my first engine running, well over a year. Right now I've got two good runners and a third in the ZONE. And for some reason I started building a fourth.

I don't know if I have enough experience to give advice, but go back and check everything, valve timing, ignition timing and be especially critical of compression, which I think is the most important aspect. 
A light flip of the flywheel should cause bounce back, I like it when it rebounds several times. That is a good indicator.
Leaks at the valve stems can cause problems, put some oil on the stem and see if that helps or changes anything. Check the spark plug, see if it's wet from flooding.

My experience with vapor carbs is very limited, but I'm thinking that just because their is fuel in the tank it may have lost it's volatility. Try fresh fuel or even switch to a different type.
Also vapor carbs do nothing to lubricate the cylinder, and that can cause loss of compression.
Another thing, do you have the same springs on the valves, listen or watch to see if the exhaust valve is inhaling, it should have a heavier spring, and maybe you could try a lighter spring on the intake.

I'm sure you've tried all of the above, you seem to be very thorough, but keep a stiff upper lip, you'll get it sooner or later, hopefully in time for Kinzers. 

GUS


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 23, 2014)

Send me your real address and I will send you a brand new carb that I guarantee will work on your engine. It's an extra one I built while playing with the Rupnow engine last summer. I can send it out today. I don't really trust the Jan Ridders carb that much,=.---Brian


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## Lawijt (Jan 23, 2014)

With the Jan Ridders vapor carb you can never flood the engine. They are working very good. Also you can put 1-2% 2-stroke oil in.

 Barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 23, 2014)

Lawjit---the 1 to 2% oil never vaporizes.--It just stays in the tank and starves the cylinders for lubrication.


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 23, 2014)

Thanks for the inputs guys,

Gus:  I remember you were struggling with the Wyvern about a year ago.  I assume you got it running then?



> listen or watch to see if the exhaust valve is inhaling


What does that mean?  It should be exhaling right?

Brian:


> I will send you a brand new carb


That's a very generous offer.  I'll give this carby a bit of time and when I hit the wall I'll send you a PM.

Barry:
I haven't given up yet

When I started this engine around August 1, 2013 I told myself if I had a runner in a year I'd be a very lucky guy.  I know building an IC engine is very much like making a pair of gears..you can't have good results in the first 99 machining steps then miss 1 step and have anything useful.  

Thanks again for the advice and assistance.  It's much appreciated

Cheers,
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 23, 2014)

I'm getting a few more pops today but still no joy.

I do have a few questions though.

Does the spark occur just as the points open, or when the full gap is reached?  It's hard to tell by observing the spark plug outside the engine.

If the intake valve is sucked open consistently, does that mean the seal in the cylinder is good.  It's hard to feel compression because the engine is still tight, but is definitely loosening up.  I'm inclined to look at compression because I think I have the timing set about right.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 23, 2014)

Spark occurs as the points open, causing the primary field to collapse in the coil. If the intake valve is sucked open, that means that your exhaust valve is sealing properly and that probably your rings are good. However, if the engine is so tight that you can't be sure about whether or not you have compression, then something is wrong. You should most definitely be able to feel the compression. How stiff is the engine to turn over with the sparkplug removed? It should be a very noticeable difference. If there is not a very noticeable difference, then either you don't have good compression or your bearings are unusually stiff. As a first suggestion, put a v-pulley on your engine, take out the sparkplug, oil everything to excess, and drive it with an electric motor for a couple of hours to loosen it up. Then when the engine has loosened up considerably, put the sparkplug in, make sure the ignition and fuel supply is okay, and drive it with the electric motor, making sure the motor is turning it the correct way. If it starts to pop at all, that means it is firing, and the fact that it is firing will help to seal any small leaks in the valves. If the electric motor driving it is a standard 1750 RPM motor, try for a 3:1 reduction between v-belt sheaves so your engine is rotating at about 600 rpm. The intense pressures created by combustion when the engine fires seems to help seat the valves and seal them much better than you can accomplish by hand grinding and lapping them. The most likely cause of an engine not starting is non sealing valves. It has always been my prime bugaboo with i.c. engines.  You may have too light a spring on your intake valve. That lets vacuum open the valve easily, but the spring may be too weak to close the valve completely when the compression cycle begins. On all of my engines, the intake valve moves very slightly--in fact, when cranking the engine to start it, sometimes you can't even see it move. When the engine is running, the valve appears to vibrate, more-so than actually opening an appreciable amount. If all else fails, take the head off and re-lap the valves with first 400 grit lapping paste, then with 600 grit. If you have a finger chuck to grip the stem of the valve, hold the finger chuck with--what else---your fingers--and pull the valve up against the seat as you rotate the chuck back and forth between your fingers 10 or 15 times. then turn the finger chuck 45 degrees and repeat--do this about 4 times with first 400 grit, then with 600 grit. That is the best way to go. Do not, on any account try to power lap the valves, for on an engine this small it will just burn the valve and seat faces and destroy them.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 23, 2014)

Thanks Brian, you've given me a lot to chew on

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Generatorgus (Jan 24, 2014)

Phil, 
The exhaust valve can suck air just the same as the intake, it needs a little heavier spring to keep it closed so that the intake does all of the inhaling.

The Wyvern: it runs, but not at all like I want, but it will sooner or later, I just have to mess with it more, I tend to get sidetracked a lot.  It's throttle governed and the carb seems to may be the problem, but I'm also having problems timing it, right now I'm blaming the Hall sensor.

On the subject of tightness, isolate the problem. Is it in the cylinder or the crankshaft. Unfasten the conn rod, see if the flywheels spin freely with no tight spots.
If they don't it may be the bearings are tight or misaligned. I don't recall if you used split main bearings, I see bearing caps, but if you did just try loosening the caps, you may need to shim a little clearance.
The only resistance to turning should be from the spring on the exhaust valve when it starts to lift, and that should not be that much. 

It may be tight in the cylinder or binding on the conn rod. The conn rod can bind against the crank if there's any misalignment. 

Possibly the ring fit is tight.
I totally gave up trying to make iron rings, too dicey for me. After several tries in he H Ford and the Lil Bro I gave them up, and went to O-rings.

A guy at CF told me how to make the fit (his Lil Bro was running perfect while mine was just sitting on a table).
I made a new piston with two groves just in case, but only made one O-ring and tried it. It fired immediately and settled into hit and miss. 
After that epiphany, I did the same procedure on the H Ford and it also emerged as a good runner. 
Myself, I'll leave iron rings to the more skilled or more patient. Iron or O-ring there should be very little resistance, except the resistance of compression.  In my case the iron rings were the cause of poor compression.

Overall, with my skill combined with the accuracy of my machinery, I'll accept a little loose over a little tight any day.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 24, 2014)

Phil--I have read thru your post again, and I see that you made your own cast iron rings. I, like generator Gus have never had good luck with cast iron rings. I have gone directly to Viton O-rings on my engines and never had problems.  If you do use a Viton ring, use a ring of 1/16" cross section with an o.d. equal to the bore of your cylinder. Make the ring groove 0.060" deep x 0.93" wide. A 1/16" cross section o-ring actually measures 0.070" cross section. If you want to stay with the iron rings, then like my original post says, soak everything with oil and drive it with an electric motor for 2 to 4 hours to "seat" the rings so they will seal better.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 24, 2014)

Gus, Brian,
Thanks for the advice and encouragement.

I've got lots to investigate.  I managed to vaporize all the fuel (Coleman white gas) in my tank with all the starting attempts.  So that tells me I am pulling air well enough.  I've got spark, and I think the timing is OK.  I found a major source of binding and that was the attachment of the engine to the baseplate.  I had put the engine frame a bit out of alignment so I fixed that.  I also found the drip oiler to the cylinder was blocked by a flake of brass so I opened that up and now it gulps 30 wt oil.

With all that said, a few tries were made with some joy.   At one point the engine was firing at a speed almost faster than the electric drill speed.  It fired long enough to make the head and cylinder quite warm, but not hot.  Im fairly sure I now have maybe a minor timing issue to address OR the carby isnt up to it.  I may PM you soon on the carby offer Brian.


There's no doubt that getting oil in the cylinder, and loosening up the engine has helped a lot.


  Id be a basket case without the benefit of my electric starter  thanks again Brian for the plans.

  I will try not to wear you guys out.  Youve given me loads of ideas to work with so Ill keep at it.

  Brian, I seem to recall when you had made all the air/steam engine designs you wanted you said, time to try an IC engine.  Thats where Im at now.  Ive got all the steam engines I want so this is the last frontier.  Ill remake any or all parts I need to for a runner.  May take time but I have the luxury of good health, time and motivation to keep at it.

  On top of all that, the engine designer from Australia is coming to visit for the Cabin Fever show.  I can pick his brain over a few rum and cokes!


Right now I'm waiting for my drill batteries to recharge before I have at it again.


  Cheers,
  Phil

  [FONT=&quot] [/FONT]


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 24, 2014)

Try more spark advance. Take the sparkplug out and heat the end of it and quickly put it back in and try it. If you had a carb I would say close the needle valve all the way and then open it very slowly as the engine is turning over. Squirt some oil around the stems of the valves. Use real gasoline instead of Naptha--its a bit more volatile.-Pray.--Put on clean socks!! That almost exhausts the things you can do to start one of these things for the first time.---I can ship the carb out tomorrow.---One more thing I just thought of--My battery powered drill doesn't really turn the engine over fast enough.  It makes a hugh difference to turn the engine over with my 110 volt electric variable speed drill at a much faster clip.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 24, 2014)

> It makes a hugh difference to turn the engine over with my 110 volt electric variable speed drill at a much faster clip.



You're right about that.  When my battery is low and spins the engine slowly it doesn't want to fire.

PM being sent

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 24, 2014)

Phil--I will be sending this out to you tomorrow.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 24, 2014)

Okay Phil--the carb is on its way. I just slipped up to the post office now and sent it by air express. The post office guaranteed delivery within 5 business days as long as U.S. customs doesn't get involved in it. I will send you a private message with your tracking number in it.---Now we can both set around and play the "Waiting for parts" game.--Actually this should work out well. Designed by an Australian, built by a Yank, with a couple of Canadian parts.----a truly international effort!!!---Brian


----------



## Fluffy (Jan 24, 2014)

G'Day Phil,
Just read your posts on your troubles starting the Bonza.
This may possibly help. 
I set the timing on my Bonza by finding the TBC with a dial indicator down through the plug hole. When on TDC, I adjusted the point gap so that I could just pull a cigarette paper through the gap.
I used 98 octane petrol & primed the carburettor by putting my thumb over the venturi & turned the engine by hand until fuel entered the carby. Then completely closed the needle & then backed it off approx. 1/8th of a turn. I used a pull rope to turn the engine & as the engine was rotating after pulling the starter rope I choked the venturi with my thumb to close off approx. half the venturi intake diameter. On the second attempt the engine fired a couple of times & stopped. I then backed off the needle a "bees dick" more & tried again still choking the venturi & the engine started & ran continuously. 
I made a number of venturis & found that the engine started & ran the best when the venturi drilled with a No.17 drill was installed.
Regards,
Don.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 24, 2014)

Thanks for that Don.  I've been adjusting the points so they just start to open at about 10 degrees before TDC.  It seems you have the points just opening at TDC.  I'll give that a try.

I did have one part move on my latest starting effort.  The bracket holding the rocker arm rotated just enough to shift off of the valve stem.  I adjusted that to where it should be, then put a drop of red threadlocker on it.  I'd have used the green stuff but I was out of stock.

One by one the weak links in the build show up and need addressing.  

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 24, 2014)

After a bit of fiddling with absolutely no response from the engine I made a sad discovery.  When the rocker arm bracket shifted the rocker arm contacted the intake valve bending the stem.  I did make spare valves and cages but this puts a wrench in the works as they say.

Tomorrow, damage control

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 25, 2014)

Damage isn't too bad.  Seems like all I've lost is the intake valve and I have one or two spares.  The seat looks OK on the intake cage which is good because that's in the head with red Loctite.

The problem I need to deal with is the rocker arm bracket.  It's 2 pieces held by a #6 flat head screw.  There shouldn't be a lot of stress on it so I don't know why it would break loose and swivel over to hit the intake valve.  It would be easy enough to make a 1 piece bracket and I may do that.  My silver soldering skills are 1 notch below my Loctiting skills, so I'd rather not practice on this part.  There's very little contact area between the 2 parts.

The downer, of course, is to actually hear the engine fire for 10 - 20 seconds yesterday, and then :fan:.  But that's what it's all about.

Besides I've gotten some good advice from some members here and the offer of a carby from Brian.

My new hobby has just changed from engine builder to engine repairman

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 25, 2014)

Chin up, phil. It does get better. As you mentioned earlier, you can only do so much with steam engines, and they cease to be a challenge. Internal combustion engines are a whole new world with a whole new set of challenges.


----------



## AussieJimG (Jan 25, 2014)

I went away for a couple of days and was sure it would be running by the time I returned. But it is almost there and the advice you have received is good advice for those of us still struggling with an engine or two.
It won't be long now.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 25, 2014)

Brian, Jim,
Thanks for the encouragement.  While I'm in experimental mode would you care to comment on the length of the spark plug I'm using?  It only goes about halfway into the port.  Do they make long reach spark plugs with a 10 x 1 mm thread?





Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 25, 2014)

The closer to the top of the piston (without hitting it) and the farther into the combustion chamber, the better it will be. If you can't get a long nose sparkplug can you counterbore the far side to let the plug set deeper? I know that with the Rupnow engine I had problems until I opened up the combustion chamber to unshroud the sparkplug and it made a huge difference. Do a web search for "Long nose M10 sparkplugs".


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 25, 2014)

I remember your post about that Brian.  That's what made me check how far that plug goes in my engine.

Finding long reach or long nose spark plugs is not easy.  Everyone wants to know what vehicle they're going into and most folks don't include the thread dimensions or the actual length.  Such is the world today - don't measure it, just look it up in some auto database

The NGK website shows they make 'em, so somebody's selling 'em.  

Cheers,
Phil

Edit:  these guys seem to know what they're doing:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/...-thread-size/10mm/shorty-spark-plug/no?page=2


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 25, 2014)

Phil--First and most obvious question, is anybody else running a Bonzer with that head configuration and sparkplug successfully. Second, and this is just speculation on my part--Have you got room to open out the combustion chamber like this to unshroud your current sparkplug? Based on what I have been able to see of your build, you should be able to do this. You will suffer a bit of a drop in compression ratio, but not enough to affect engine performance. This will greatly improve chances of igniting the incoming fuel mixture, and you don't have to change sparkplugs nor remake the head.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 25, 2014)

> First and most obvious question, is anybody else running a Bonzer with that head configuration and sparkplug successfully



That's a question for AussieJimG.  I think this is a first, but I'm not sure if anybody else picked up plans for the Bonzer.

My spark plug shown in the picture is 3/8" long on the threaded section.  For $5 USD I can get one with a 3/4" threaded section that will put the spark right in the center of that hole to the right.

I do have room to enlarge the combustion chamber as you've shown.  

I'll try the long reach plug first because that is easiest.  The chamber enlargement is a good second option.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Jan 25, 2014)

You had me worried there for a minute. But according to my copy of the drawings, there should be a counterbore 16mm diameter x 7 mm deep for the plug.

This will bring the electrode just into the hole when the copper washer is compressed to half of its nominal 0.1" thickness.

Dementia is deferred again.

Jim


----------



## AussieJimG (Jan 25, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Phil--First and most obvious question, is anybody else running a Bonzer with that head configuration and sparkplug successfully. Second, and this is just speculation on my part--Have you got room to open out the combustion chamber like this to unshroud your current sparkplug? Based on what I have been able to see of your build, you should be able to do this. You will suffer a bit of a drop in compression ratio, but not enough to affect engine performance. This will greatly improve chances of igniting the incoming fuel mixture, and you don't have to change sparkplugs nor remake the head.



Brian,

Phil is the first person to use this variation of the head. It came from my experience and seemed to be the simplest to make.

Yes, there is room to enlarge the spark plug hole as you suggest. But, as you say, it will affect the compression ratio. I am not sure by how much nor whether changes to the piston could compensate without fouling the valves.

Let's see if Phil's long reach plug or the counterbore does the job before we try the larger pocket.

Cheers

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 28, 2014)

Eight years ago I bought a little Harbor Freight milling machine to get started in this hobby.  I wanted a vise for it, and naturally it HAD to have a swivel base.  How cool, I could cut angles.  Well I soon learned that swivel base ate up a lot of valuable "z" axis space, so it was shuttled to a quiet corner of the shop.  I dug it out about 3 years ago to cut some reliefs in a beam engine I was building, then off to the quiet corner.

Well after last week's disaster with the rocker arm bracket I had some time on my hands to regroup.  I decided to make a rigid one piece bracket out of a slug of #7500 aluminum I had on hand.  This is really not necessary but hey another opportunity for the swivel base vise





It did the job. 

Here's a photo of both brackets, the 1 piece shown on the right, which will have a spacer under it.





Still waiting for the long reach spark plugs.  They're due to arrive tomorrow.  I also bought stronger springs (0.023" versus 0.016") and will try those out.

I should be giving it a trial run in a few days.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jan 28, 2014)

Phil--I am running .012 diameter spring wire on the intakes of all my engines with atmospheric valves, and .023" dia. spring wire on my exhaust valves.---and your new bracket looks great!!!-Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks Brian.  I was considering the stiffer 0.023" spring on the exhaust and the lighter, 0.016" spring on the intake.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Jan 29, 2014)

That's a nice looking bracket Phil, at least you know that it is not going to move and damage another inlet valve.

It's getting close now.

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 29, 2014)

Thanks Jim.  On the plus side, when SWMBO asks "Are you really going to use that tool?" that I'm gawking at, I can honestly answer "Sure I use all the tools I buy eventually)

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Generatorgus (Jan 30, 2014)

Phil, your making positive forward progress.  I'm sure we'll  see a video clip of it running soon.
No pressure, but I'm hoping you'll bring it to Kinzer next, running or not.
Lil' Henry won't be done, but weather permitting he'll be along for the ride.

On the tools being used sooner or later, just yesterday, I rediscovered the box of indexing plates that came with my Grizzly RT I bought some years ago.  Also in the box were the T-nuts and step clamps that also came with it.  Now I can add them to the ones I made for it.:wall:
You can never have too many.;D


----------



## Philjoe5 (Jan 30, 2014)

Gus,
I'm looking forward to the Winter Get Together.  It's nice to see folks and their new stuff.

The Bonzer is in pieces right now after the valve fiasco, but a new one has been installed in the head to replace the bent one.

If it's in movable condition I'll bring it.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 2, 2014)

Did the carb I sent you show up yet?--They promised me a 5 business days delivery---Unless U.S, customs got involved with the shipment.---Brian


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 2, 2014)

Hi Brian,
I checked the tracking number yesterday and it's still in Canada according to their records.  But, they are notoriously bad at tracking in my experience.  I've had shipments show up before I ever received any tracking information.

I'll let you know the minute it arrives.  Snow predicted for tomorrow so deliveries will be late if at all.

I've been following your opposed engine WIP.  No joy yet?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 3, 2014)

I gave the engine a try with the new rocker arm bracket, long reach spark plug, slightly stiffer valve springs but no joy.  

I finally found the reason why my valve timing seemed to change slightly.  I thought the cam was slipping on the bronze bushing for the timing gear.  The bronze bushing in the timing gear had only been an interference fit and had begun slipping a lot.  That got some red Loctite.

The new one piece rocker arm bracket puts the nose of the rocker arm a bit too far past the valve stem.  A new rocker arm will be made tomorrow with an adjustment in the distance between the two pivot holes.

Seems like a lot of bad news except my compression is really good now, so that&#8217;s one less worry.


Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 4, 2014)

Phil--I just called Canada Post and gave them the tracking number for the carb. They say it has arrived at its destination. Do you have it yet?---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 4, 2014)

Hi Brian,
Yes it arrived in today's mail.  I talked to the postman and he said all deliveries yesterday in our neighborhood were canceled due to the storm.

Since we're getting another dose of winter tonight, I'm glad I received it today.

I assume I can use any kind of fuel tank with it as long as I bleed the air out of the line?

Thanks again for letting me try it out.  Meanwhile, it seems as soon as I solve one problem, another one pops up.  

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 4, 2014)

You don't have to bleed air out of the line. Just make sure that when the gas tank is full, the fuel level is about 3/4" below the center of the main air inlet on the carburetor. If the fuel is ever above the center of the main air passage, gravity will cause it to bleed out the tiny fuel port and constantly flood out your engine, or even drip out of the carb and puddle around your engine causing a fire hazard. Your gas tank will either need a vent hole in the cap, or just loosen the cap a half a turn to prevent an air lock, preventing the fuel from being sucked up into the carb by venturi effect. I tend to use a transparent fuel line so I can visually monitor where the fuel is. As you crank the engine over with the drill, the air rushing thru the carb to the cylinder will create enough venturi vacuum to lift the fuel that 3/4 of an inch to start your engine. If your engine starts and then goes into the "miss" cycle, and coasts in this cycle long enough, then the lack of air being drawn into the carb will let the fuel run back into the tank.--Then, when your engine finally is finished coasting and wants to "hit" again, there may not be enough momentum left to lift the fuel back up from the tank so your engine can fire again. That is why I recommend an "anti flow back" valve be installed on the carb of these hit and miss engines. But---To start your engine the first time, you should have the lever that props open the exhaust valve removed or taped back so as to disable the hit and miss function. It gets a little scary the first time the engine starts, because without the hit and miss function hooked up, you will have no idea how fast the engine is going to run. It may start and settle in at a nice even pace, or it may run away with itself, over-revving until it self destructs. You have to be ready to pull off the sparkplug wire or put your finger over the air inlet to "choke" it to death in order to get it to stop!!!---It gets very exciting very quickly. A good "starting point" for that carb I sent you is with the needle open one complete turn from fully closed.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 4, 2014)

Thanks Brian for the information.  I'm using a battery -  coil ignition and I have an on - off switch that will shut the engine down.  Right now, I'm puzzling over a sudden lack of compression.  I've made a new rocker arm and have been playing with the valve rod length adjustment.

I think I'm much further away than I thought.  But I am persistent.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 5, 2014)

So---What happened to your compression? On my opposed piston engine, it was so stiff that I couldn't feel whether it had compression or not when I was finished assembling it. I spent most of Saturday spinning it and getting "pops" and short 15 to 20 second runs. It still hadn't took off and ran by the end of the day, but it had loosened up amazingly and I could definitely feel the compression when turning it by hand. I had to Loctite a 2" diameter knurled collar onto the starting adapter so I could grip it and turn it by hand. The compression really wasn't that great when I started, (as near as I could tell with the engine so stiff) but after getting a number of short term runs the compression improved dramatically. Now if I spin it quickly by hand and let go, it will bounce back when it comes up on compression.


----------



## Generatorgus (Feb 6, 2014)

Philjoe5 said:


> Thanks again for letting me try it out. Meanwhile, it seems as soon as I solve one problem, another one pops up.
> 
> Cheers,
> Phil


 

Such is the life of an amateur machinist.  I'm positive you'll get it all ironed out.

On a lighter note, the weather looks good for the get together at Kinzer, see ya there.

GUS


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 7, 2014)

Brian,
The compression mystery remains just that.  When I got uo Wednesday morning this was my view:




and this




Thankfully, I have this setup




You know when it's a nice summer day in July and you tell your friends how you bought a generator, and a transfer switch they can make you feel like Noah (of the ark).  Well it ran my furnace, fridge and coffeemaker through our power outage of 54 hours with temps going down to 10F at night.

While not directly related to the Bonzer build it'll add some time before I get back to the engine.

Bear with me.  I'm probably going to disassemble the engine and do a closer inspection of the subassemblies.

Gus, I hope to get a few hours to get to the winter get together

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 8, 2014)

Had a nice time at the winter get together where I met Tin Falcon, Cheepo45 and Generatorgus forum members.  Cheepo45 showed me the spark on his Upshur Farm engine.  It made a nice snapping sound when it jumped from the end of the coil wire to the end of the spark plug, a gap of about an inch.  

My spark is nowhere near as intense.  So I'm planning to check my coil out.

I discovered the source of my inconsistent compression.  I was 1/2 a turn on the valve rod off, allowing the rocker arm to hold the exhaust valve open during the compression cycle.  My compression has returned and seems pretty good.

In another recent thread on this forum, Exhaust Valve Timing, Dieselpilot mentioned lash between the cam and follower being as being critical.  I am slowly absorbing the importance of paying attention to this variable.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## cheepo45 (Feb 8, 2014)

It was good to see my engine building friends, and get out of the house! I.C. engines can be frustrating to get running right. I'm sure it will be running soon.
cheepo45


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 8, 2014)

> I'm sure it will be running soon



Thanks cheepo45.  It was good to see you and talk about the trials and tribulations of these confounding (but fun) machines.

Your spark demonstration was a great help.  When I got home I tested my system and found I had *NO *spark.  Battery voltage has dropped to 5 V, so I think I need a new battery at least.

I like your use of the work "soon" since I can interpret that in terms of the age of the universe to mean anywhere from 1 week to several thousands of years

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## cheepo45 (Feb 8, 2014)

Glad I could help, Phil. My many works in progress will be done "soon".
                  cheepo45


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 9, 2014)

Before I get going on a proper ignition system it occurs to me that the carby Brian sent me will require a new fuel tank.  I could modify the Ridder's vapor carb but at some point when I have a proven engine design, I'll want to try it out.

So I'll make one exactly like it but with a pipe going from a cap to the bottom of the tank, and a second fill cap with a vent hole.  Same overall dimensions, with the window on one end, courtesy of GailinNM

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 9, 2014)

Phil--I converted one of the Jan Ridder vapour fuel tanks to a normal fuel tank on my build of the Atkinson engine. I simply welded in a tube at the bottom of the tank. It worked great, and you can see whether or not you have any fuel.---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 11, 2014)

I decided to keep the Ridder's vapor carby intact to try at some future time.

Without using plans I just sort of made the same "tank" with modifications to suit the carburetor that Brian sent.  In this photo, the carby is screwed into what I call a "Transponder".  It has 5/16 - 24 NF internal threads which the carby elbow screws into and 10 x 1 mm external threads that screw into the cylinder head.






In this photo I've shown everything loosely assembled for a trial fit.





The final position of the tank will be closer to the engine and slightly elevated so the highest level of fuel in the tank will be slightly below the intake of the carb.

Now that I think I have this subassembly finished it's time to finish dealing with the ignition system.

A foot of snow is predicted for tomorrow into Thursday so I expect a few more delays on the engine work.

Thanks for looking 

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 11, 2014)

I'm not sure if I understand you or not, but its the highest level the fuel will ever reach in your gas tank that must be 3/4" below the center of your carb. Otherwise, if the fuel is ever higher than the center of the carb, once you start it running syphon effect will keep it running and flood your carb like crazy.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 11, 2014)

Brian,
I edited my post to clarify what I was saying.  I think we're on the same page here - keep the fuel level below the center of the carb, always.

Cheers,
Phil


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## AussieJimG (Feb 12, 2014)

Closer and closer ...

Jim


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 15, 2014)

Phil--We need a progress report. You should be running by now----Are you having further issues?


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 15, 2014)

Brian,

I finished the fuel tank and assembled it but haven't checked it for leaks yet





I've been playing with the length of the exhaust valve push rod and I think I've got it about right.  I get a bounce on the compression stroke.

The inlet tube on your carby is 0.176" which is loose fit on the 3/16" ID of my fuel line.  I suppose I could have wired it on, but I ordered some decent tubing clamps and will probably get those on Monday.

Monday will be the day I spend some time at a local motorcycle custom shop and have a discussion about ignition coils.  I prefer to deal with folks like this because they have a keen knowledge of mechanics and in all ways we are like minded.

Meanwhile, this was the view outside yestderday





But the neighbors kids are loving the year of the big snowman





Thanks for looking in

Cheers,
Phil


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## Lawijt (Feb 15, 2014)

You make a nice work. I believe also in Jan 's fuell tank.
 Nice pictures of the snow. Very beautifull. Here in Belgium Always rain & storm.

 Barry


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## AussieJimG (Feb 16, 2014)

That's a beautiful fuel tank but I don't like the look of the backyard.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 16, 2014)

> I don't like the look of the backyard


I should box it up and send you a bunch Jim.

Thanks Barry.  Once I get this engine running on its carburetor I want to go back and experiment with the Ridders.

While waiting for Monday, I decided to make some better keys for the flywheels.  I once had a nasty experience with a set screw missing the key and jamming itself in the keyway of the shaft.  I had to make a pulley puller to remove the wheel.  So in all of this trial assembly work I used brass keys for easier removal.

I saw keys of this sort on my friends Fairbanks Morse last weekend and I liked the design for 2 reasons.  





One, you've got a nice tab to grab for removing it from the keyway.  And two, you can cut them to a length such that you're guaranteed they will sit under the set screw.  Now they can't slide out the other side and be snatched away by those pesky shop gremlins





Cheers,
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 17, 2014)

I mounted the engine and fuel tank on a base that made it seem like I knew I had a runner.  Went to the cycle shop and talked to the guy about his vintage Atlas lathe and its rocker style tool post.  The lathe is in need of a better 3 jaw so I'll help the guy find one.

We also talked about an ignition system (my primary mission) and we decided on a 12V system.  Parts were ordered and should be here in a few days.

Here's the engine all bolted down with the fuel tank now leak tested and fuel line clamped in place.  I still have good compression which means I have, for now, driven out the demon who kept introducing a leak in the cylinder.





Thanks for looking.  A video is *Imminent*

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 17, 2014)

Phil--Put the water jacket on and fill it with water before you start it the first time. Trust me--Once it starts, you aren't going to want to shut it off for a while.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 18, 2014)

Brian,
I decided to take your advice on the water jacket.  I've waited this long, another week won't make much difference,

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 18, 2014)

Now just waiting for ignition





Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 18, 2014)

Loverly!!!


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 23, 2014)

I have a good ignition system now and get a spark I can hear when the plug is outside the engine.  I have Brian's carby attached and could get a few short runs but not enough to keep it going. I had the sweet aroma of exhaust fumes which I think acts as a stimulant
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.  Without water in the jacket the engine actually got hot, but not so much I couldn't touch the head with a bare hand.

I've tried adjusting valve timing, ignition timing and carburetor settings but no joy yet.  I also tried adjusting the intake valve spring tension.  

I'm taking the rest of the day off while I ponder my next move.  

Compression is still good so I'm optimistic.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Feb 23, 2014)

Yipee! It lives!!!

Jim


----------



## cheepo45 (Feb 23, 2014)

Glad to see you got it running! Now it's just fine tuning.
                cheepo45


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 23, 2014)

> Glad to see you got it running!



Thanks cheepo45 but I'm not doing the happy dance yet.  I have noticed that if I get the engine firing enough to get things hot, the whole works seem to get much stiffer.  I'm going to investigate this because I did machine the aluminum piston to be a fairly close fit in the bore.  I don't want to believe the fit is that close, but it's just another factor I need to eliminate.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 25, 2014)

I had a pretty good day today, but no happy dance just yet.  With this setup





using the Ridder's vapor carb I was able to get a sustained run of probably 15 seconds before the engine coasted to a stop.  During that time I was trying to decide whether to reach for the air inlet valve (I was on full choke) or the camera.  Then runs got progressively shorter, and finally no pops.  The spark plug was dry and except for a little soot looked OK.  Consultation with AussieJimG leads us to believe that perhaps the fuel was getting colder due to evaporation and I wasn't getting enough fuel to the engine when I decided to quit.  That should be easy to prove when I try running tomorrow.  If I get the same result, I'll switch to Brian's carby and see what happens.  

I would guess that with all the attempts I had a full 3+ minues of run time and I can't believe how much the compression has improved.

After the 15 sec run I called my wife to the basement shop to be a witness, but at this time she's unwilling to testify in court

I'm really encouraged by today's results.  I currently have the battery on the charger.  I want all the spark I can get tomorrow.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 25, 2014)

Phil--It sounds like you are almost there. Best of luck, and I'll cross my fingers for you.---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 25, 2014)

Thanks Brian.  I'm tantalizingly close.  If it doesn't run tomorrow, I'll plumb in your carb and try it.  Everything everyone said about increasing compression after just a short run-in is absolutely true.  It's an impressive thing.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Generatorgus (Feb 26, 2014)

We're rootin' fer ya!!  Your persistence will prevail.


----------



## X3MyWill (Feb 26, 2014)

I built one of these engines a few years ago.   The symptoms you describe (runs for a short while then coasts to a stop) sound a bit like the problem I had.  I traced the problem to the spark flashing over from the plug connection to the head.  I was using a 12 volt car coil and battery and the spark voltage was sufficient to track down the insulator of the plug no matter how clean it was or how I positioned the connector.  It seem to only happen when the engine started to warm up. The tracking may not be that obvious in a well light workshop.  You say that your ignition system gives a very strong spark so I would check for this problem. My bonza has a very simple vapour fuel system consisting of a glass jar with connected to a brass intake tube with a 4.5mm hole by a 5 mm tube. I have been amazed at how such a simple system can work so well. I have never had any trouble with this system.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 26, 2014)

Thanks for the tip X3.  I have a worklight over the engine that I can switch off to see if I'm having the arcing problem.

BTW, my shop is about 62 - 64F these days.  I'm wondering if the vapor carbs work more efficiently at higher temps?

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 26, 2014)

This is the part where I go absolutely crazy. Everything seems to be right, but the friggin' thing won't keep running. This is where you go back over everything and take a second look. First, check the valve timing. Then check the ignition timing--and then, what the heck d you check??? The carb works--I know that because it worked on my engine. Your flywheels are heavy enough, because other people built the engine with the same flywheels, and their engines ran okay. You say that your compression is good and better. Good luck!!!


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 26, 2014)

Here's an update.  I still have very good compression but did not get a single pop today.  Spark is good even though the battery is reading 6 V instead of 12 V.  Could be my Harbor Freight meter but that's going to be checked out.

And an observation that makes absolutely no sense.  With the Ridder's carb hooked up I was getting fuel pushed out of the vent hole on the compression stroke.  That suggests an intake valve not seating, but then why do I have compression

I switched to Brian's carb and not a pop either.  Also, after much cranking, when I removed the fuel line from the tank, it was dry and should have had fuel in it.

Then, all of a sudden the engine got very tight.  By successively  loosening components I traced this to a binding cam gear, so that needs  attention.

I decided to strip the engine down and test all the component assemblies thoroughly.  With the crankshaft and cam driving gear out of the picture, the piston moves nicely in the cylinder and it's hard to push it to TDC.

This is going to take a while.  I'll be back

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Lawijt (Feb 27, 2014)

Hi Phil,

 Is the timing for the ignition still correct? Maybe the timing is too late now & when the engine suck fuell & air , the spark arrive, all blow out??

 Barry


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 27, 2014)

Hi Barry,
Yep, spark is about 10 degrees before TDC.  I tried going to more retarded, then more advanced with nary a pop.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 27, 2014)

Is it possible that you have tuned the valve and ignition timing to run in one direction, while attempting to start it in the opposite direction?


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 27, 2014)

Brian,
I must admit a few weeks ago I couldn't spell "ignishun sistem" and now I made one

Seriously, let's review since anything's possible.  As I face the side of the engine, I'm turning the flywheel clockwise.  As the piston approaches TDC the spark fires.  I've tried from 20 degrees before TDC to maybe 10 degrees after.  The short running episodes I had a few days ago showed a spark at 10 degrees before TDC.

Like wise on the exhaust stroke I'm just starting to lift the valve at about 10 degrees before BDC, and I've varied that +/- 10 degrees.

I found the source of the binding cam gear.  This photo shows the cam gear with red loctite residue on it.  I tried pressing the steel eccentric shaft out of the bronze bushing, but the bushing broke clear of the gear.





That steel shaft is supposed to turn freely in the bushing.  It's seized but good.  I'm going to make a new bushing out of a piece of bronze oilite I have as well as a new eccentric shaft.  I have no idea what happened to the timing as a result of that.

I'm going to walk the battery across the street so my buddy can check it for output.

The water tank lossened up in all the fooling around, so I'm replacing the blue silicone gasket maker with JB Weld.

So, I'm down for the count but I've got some fixes to attend to.  I was very close 2 days ago, now not so much.  I'll return when I've got her running.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 27, 2014)

Phil--I have always set my engines up so that the exhaust valve just begins to feel the effect of the exhaust valve cam at  1/8" before the piston reaches bottom dead center on the power stroke. Believe it or not, this actually translated to 50 degrees of travel  remaining on the crankshaft before the piston actually reached the bottom dead center.--That was on my opposed piston engine, at any rate. I am going to open my cad files right now on the Philip Duclos "Odds and Ends' engine to see what 1/8" of piston travel translates to in degrees of crankshaft movement, because it is more representative of your engine.---Brian


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 27, 2014)

Even on my Odds and Ends engine that angle works out to 40 degrees of crankshaft rotation left to get the final 1/8" travel of the piston to bottom dead center. You may want to ask some of the other model engine engineers on here, but perhaps it would be better to set your exhaust valve timing closer to the 40 degrees of advance. I know that when I was trying to get my Opposed piston engine to run, I had to make a new cam, because I hadn't built the first cam accurately enough. The cam I give in the plans for my opposed piston engine seems to be about perfect for hit and miss engines, as that is where it originated. I believe it has a total of 250 degrees of "influence" on the exhaust valve. It starts to open it at 50 degrees advance, holds it open through the full exhaust stroke, and 20 degrees into the intake stroke. I have this same cam on the Odds and Ends engine, the Rupnow engine, and the Opposed piston engine.---Brian


----------



## Philjoe5 (Feb 27, 2014)

Thanks for that tip Brian.  I forgot where I read a 10 degree advance on the exhaust valve was good to start.  It will be a while before I get to try it.  

I do know for this engine, at 10 degrees before BDC, I'm sure the rocker arm is off of the valve before TDC.  Maybe some of the Bonza or Bonzer builders could chime in on that.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 27, 2014)

Philjoe5 said:


> Thanks for that tip Brian. I forgot where I read a 10 degree advance on the exhaust valve was good to start. It will be a while before I get to try it.
> 
> I do know for this engine, at 10 degrees before BDC, I'm sure the rocker arm is off of the valve before TDC. Maybe some of the Bonza or Bonzer builders could chime in on that.
> 
> ...


 Phil--Remember--Those figures I gave you are theoretical figures only, making the assumption that there is absolutely no valve "lash" clearance. In a real world scenario, the minimum acceptable valve lash is about .005"
which will retard the opening a few degrees from theoretical numbers.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 2, 2014)

I made a new eccentric shaft and cam gear bushing after the first pair seized up.  Using an arbor press I manage to separate the pieces but I have no clue why they failed, bearing bronze bushing and a steel shaft.  The replacement parts were installed and work fine.  The evil twin parts :shrug: are shown alongside the engine here.





The battery I purchased a week ago was exchanged for a new one.  The original wouldnt charge up past 10 V.

A few more details to attend to and Ill have another trial run.  But first, a reunion with 2 brothers in Florida, at the beach no less. woohoo1

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## AussieJimG (Mar 2, 2014)

I hope you have a good time in Florida and come back with a suntan to finish the Bonzer (and shovel the rest of the snow aside).

Jim


----------



## Philjoe5 (Mar 2, 2014)

Jim,
I'll be using these tools for the week





Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 2, 2014)

More power to ya, Phil---Catch some rays and drink some coconut rum for me!!!---Brian


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 14, 2014)

[FONT=&quot]I have an update after surviving a week at a sunny Florida beach for a get together with 2 of my brothers (I have 5).  [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I made a new eccentric for the cam gear and its bushing.  I used the same materials, bronze for the bushing and steel for the shaft.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I reassembled the engine with the carburetor and its fuel tank.  Checked for spark with my new 12V battery and everything looked OK but I failed to get a single &#8220;pop&#8221;.  When I disconnected the fuel line I expected to see fuel drip from it, but there wasn&#8217;t a drop.  Meaning I&#8217;m not sucking fuel up to the carb, hence, no &#8220;pop&#8221;.  [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Rather than troubleshoot this problem now I decided to go back to the vapor carb.  The good news is that I could get short 10 &#8211; 15 second bursts, then it would coast to a stop and bounce back at the compression cycle.  I was able to get the engine very warm.  Then suddenly, I got a good cloud of smoke coming from the coil so I had to shut down.  The coil had 2 outputs (for a twin cylinder motorcycle) and I had put insulation on one of them.  [/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]I had the guy who sold it to me check it but it&#8217;s dead, fried, kaput.  He suggested that the second output should have been grounded but he was as surprised as I was that it was cooked.[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]So, today, with a new 12V automobile coil I set everything up for another trial.  This was my best run:

[/FONT]   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TclA09OX0eM

  [FONT=&quot]I&#8217;m very happy about that, especially since I didn't break anything!.  I think I need to fiddle with the fuel/air mix a bit.  Anyone have any suggestions why it won&#8217;t keep running?[/FONT]

  [FONT=&quot]Cheers,[/FONT]
  [FONT=&quot]Phil[/FONT]


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## cheepo45 (Mar 14, 2014)

Great to see it run, Phil. I'm looking forward to seeing it at Cabin Fever. Have you been following Brian Rupnow's I.C. Carb thread? It looks like a good design, if you can't get the one you have to work. 
                       cheepo45


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 14, 2014)

Congratulations on your first run. Shure makes your heart go pitter-Patter, doesn't it!!! I don't know why it wasn't sucking up fuel with the carb I sent you. It worked on the Rupnow hit and miss engine. Maybe there is some dirt in the needle valve. One of the things that will make you crazy is an engine that runs for a while and then quits for no apparent reason.--Like--What changes?? I would think that with the vapor fuel tank nothing is changing--at least not that quickly. If the coil is questionable, that is one possibility---but if the coil is bad enough to stop the engine, the engine wouldn't start right away again. That was the main reason I bought a complete electronic ignition for the Rupnow engine. It would start, run like a charm for 20 seconds or so---just enough to make you lunge for the video camera---and then quit for no apparent reason. Once I got the electronic ignition on it, the problem went away, so I have the coil I was using tagged as "possibly bad". Many people will tell you to pull the sparkplug and see if its dry or wet, indicating fuel starvation or flooding. Personally, I have found that if the engine is warm at all, by the time you get the sparkplug out to look at it, it will always be dry, even if it was flooded when it quit. Good Luck.--When I make a carburetor, I have a real Rube Goldberg method of testing the carb to see if there is enough vacuum being created by Venturi effect to suck fuel up from the gas tank. Air reacts differently, depending on whether its being "sucked" or "blown" (at least I find it does). I have an old 1 quart sandblaster gun that creates a vacuum at the sand pick up end when air is blown thru it. I run a hose from the vacuum pick up tube to the side of my carb which normally attaches to the cylinder head. I run a gas line from the carb fuel pick up end into a glass of water. If all is right with the world, triggering the gun under very low pressure creates "suction" at the carb, just as an engine would, and you can watch it pull water up from the glass if the Venturi effect has been achieved properly.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 14, 2014)

Cheepo--That new carb I am working on is a throttled carb. Hit and miss engines don't use a carb with a throttle on it. The speed is controlled by the governors. The hit and miss carb runs "wide open" all the time.


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 14, 2014)

Brian,
I may be able to use the carb.  I haven't gotten to the governor yet, so I should be able to use it.  I've been following your WIP

Cheepo45,
It probably won't be ready for CF this year.  But for sure, the Kinzers steam up in May.  What a sacrilege to show an IC engine at "Steam up"

Cheers,
Phil


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## brucetoo (Mar 15, 2014)

all the links just take me to adds that don't relate to the  article?What am I doing wrong?


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## Generatorgus (Mar 15, 2014)

That looks and sounds like a running engine. That's GREAT!! 
Why it doesn't stay running??
If you switched back to the Brian's carb and you choked or primed it to start it, then I'd guess you're running out of fuel when the prime is gone.
Try putting the fuel supply a little or a lot higher, see what happens.

Although CF is still almost a month away and you still may solve the mystery,  bring it anyway, as work in progress.  You may end up leaving with a fully running engine, you never know.


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## cheepo45 (Mar 15, 2014)

Thanks for the carb info, Brian. I guess I was going by the video and the hit and miss mechanism isn't hooked up yet.
  I built a throttled carb for my Ushur engine (without any hit and miss mechanism) and being able to close the venturi down has really improved the running of the engine. The higher velocity helps to pull the fuel up from the tank. The distance from the fuel level in the tank to the carb venture is somewhat critical. My engine runs differently with a full tank than it does when it's getting close to empty.
  I'm sure the Bonzer will be running great soon. I.C. engines do take some fiddling to get them running well.
                               cheepo45


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 15, 2014)

OK, here's a theory for target practice.

Before I went on vacation I wanted to grind up some branches that came down in the last storm.  I used a 20 year old 4 hp chipper I inherited.  It has a cantankerous Tecumseh engine on it.  The day, in early March was 15 F and I could not coax a pop out of it so I gave up.

Today, it's 50F out, I put the chipper in the sun, and 1st pull she starts.

Now onto my problem Bonzer.  My basement is 64F and my first attempt at starting was like yesterday's, a "long" 15 second run at full choke.  Subsequent efforts gave shorter runs.  I felt the fuel tank and it was cold.

I put a 60 watt lamp near the tank for about 20 minutes just to get back to room temp or maybe a shade more.  Gave it a start and it ran for the longest yet, maybe 20 -25 seconds.

Tomorrow, when I get back to it, I'll start by warming up the fuel and give it a try.  I'll time it and see what happens.

Brucetoo, not sure what your problem is, it seems to link up OK here.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 15, 2014)

Be careful warming up fuel. Somehow that seems, aahhhh---a bit dangerous.


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 15, 2014)

> Be careful warming up fuel. Somehow that seems, aahhhh---a bit dangerous.



For sure.  A 60 watt lamp on the tank under watchful eyes

Cheers,
Phil


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## robcas631 (Mar 15, 2014)

Actually a 11'. But fun! TY


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## robcas631 (Mar 15, 2014)

Phil, so there is no such thing as an electric engine? Just asking.


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## robcas631 (Mar 15, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Okay Phil--the carb is on its way. I just slipped up to the post office now and sent it by air express. The post office guaranteed delivery within 5 business days as long as U.S. customs doesn't get involved in it. I will send you a private message with your tracking number in it.---Now we can both set around and play the "Waiting for parts" game.--Actually this should work out well. Designed by an Australian, built by a Yank, with a couple of Canadian parts.----a truly international effort!!!---Brian


 

Brian is one cool dude!


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## robcas631 (Mar 15, 2014)

Sweet to see it run! And, it runs smoothly!


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## Lawijt (Mar 16, 2014)

You can try also Jan Ridders bubble tank. Not more 'too rich' - 'too lean'. It will work very fine.

 Barry


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 16, 2014)

Thanks Rob, Barry.



> You can try also Jan Ridders bubble tank



That's on the list of things to try Barry.



> so there is no such thing as an electric engine?



Rob:  I grew up with the notion that a device that converts electricity to rotational motion is a motor.  Any device that converts the energy of heat to rotational motion is an engine.  But you got me thinking, so I Googled "electric engine". 

http://encyclopedia2.thefreedictionary.com/electric+engine

Whoda' thunk?scratch.gif

Phil


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## wrljet (Mar 16, 2014)

Coming from New Jersey I used the terms that way, too.
At least used to.

But I've always wondered why it's Ford Motor Company and General Motors.
They weren't primarily in the electric motor business.

Bill


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 16, 2014)

I believe I qualify for the "happy dance  th_wav " today since I had to stop the engine using the ignition switch.

The problem I was having with the engine stopping after 10 - 15 seconds was traced to the vapor carb.  I had been keeping the tank about 1/4 full.  Today I decided to fill the tank 3/4 full and when I did I could only get the engine to fire by admitting air into the intake.  This is how the carb is supposed to work.  By admitting air I could run the engine as long as I dared to considering the water tank is not installed.  This was up to almost a minute, then I had to turn the ignition switch off.  I did this exercise at least 5 times, and each time I had to shut off the engine with the ignition switch.  So I think all that remains now is to attach the water tank and build a portable stand for it.  Presently, it's firmly attached to the benchtop.

When the water tank is installed I'll show the results in a video.

Cheers,
Phil

I'm going to the basement now to start my engine  woohoo1


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## weez (Mar 16, 2014)

Congratulations on your first running IC engine!


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 16, 2014)

Thanks Weez.  It's an exciting time for one of my longest projects.  I still have the usual tweaking to do but the valves, piston rings, gears are all working well.

Cheers,
Phil


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## GailInNM (Mar 16, 2014)

Congratulations Phil.
I think you  have beat it in to submission.  All that is left is to domesticate some so it''s on it's best behavior all the time.    
Gail in NM


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 16, 2014)

Thanks Gail,
Your efforts in making the window for the vapor carb are appreciated.  Still learning a lot about that vapor carb.  It seems to be very sensitive to the air admitting right now.  Todays results were better than yesterdays so that means progress

Cheers,
Phil


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## Lawijt (Mar 17, 2014)

Great too read that your engine is running. Now whe want a movie offcourse.

 Regards

 Barry


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 17, 2014)

Barry,
Look here for the latest run video

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOVLQw6CPlA[/ame]

Cheers,
Phil


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## Lawijt (Mar 17, 2014)

Looks really good. I think you are very happy right now.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 20, 2014)

Phil---Look away back at post #234. That is where I tell you about not having the gas tank above, nor too far below the center of the carburetor barrel. I generally go by the "rule of thumb" that the top level of fuel in the gas tank should be about 3/4" below the center of the carb barrel. If you were trying my carburetor with the tank 3" below the carb, it wouldn't have created enough vacuum to pull the fuel that high.---Brian


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 20, 2014)

Thanks Brian,
I'm going to give your carb another try with the fuel tank elevated.

Your recent carb work is very well done

Cheers,
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 23, 2014)

I have been picking at the engine this past week, but no joy.  At one point I lost compression, but a little fiddling brought it back, I think I had some crud on the valve seat.  

The fuel tank is now elevated so the top of the tank is about at the level of the intake port.  I made a bubbler for the vapor carb and actually got a few short runs in.

Now I'm dealing with a battery (The replacement for #1) that loses its power in a few minutes after a full charge to 12 V it falls to 7.5 V and no spark   So that goes back for #3, but I'm going to try another brand.  This battery is rated at 7 AH at 12V and it's connected to a standard automobile ignition coil.  I assume it should have the juice for the job?

That's it for now.  I'm cranking out gears for my transmission project and at least I'm having success there.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 29, 2014)

OK, I think we finally have success.  I've now started the engine several times and each time I've had to stop it by shutting off the ignition.

After dealing with two faulty batteries I managed to get a reliable ignition system.

Then with the vapor carb I could get it to run, but after 15 - 20 seconds it would coast to a stop.  No amount of fooling around with air mixtures would get a run of more than 20 seconds.

So I installed Brian's carb and after a brief period of fiddling this was the result:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j2euPi_uU0s&feature=youtu.be

So I will kep this set up until AussieJimG comes to visit in a few weeks so he can see it run, then a strip it down, install the water tank, and finally build Brian's carb.  This carb was given to me by Brian and represents an older design but it works great.

A final post of the finished engine is probably a month away.

Thanks everyone for looking in, offering advice, plans (AussieJimG) parts (GailinNM, Brian Rupnow).  I couldn't have done it alone

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 29, 2014)

Congratulations, Philjoe. I knew you would get it, I'm glad the carb worked for you. The next big step will be to get the governor mechanism working.---Brian


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## GailInNM (Mar 29, 2014)

In my book that counts as a completed and well done project Phil.
Glad I could help, even if just a little bit. You did all the work.
Anything else you do now is just for pretty and showboating.
th_wav
Gail in NM


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## AussieJimG (Mar 29, 2014)

Bloody beauty!!!

I am on my way - out of here next Saturday and I can't wait to see the engine and to share a glass or two of congratulatory fluid with you.

Good Onya Mate

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 29, 2014)

Thanks Guys, you've all been very helpful.  Jim - 2 weeks for the "toast to the Bonzer", can't wait.

Also a thanks goes out to Gus the Fisherman who inspired me to make my own gears.  Once you make a set, you must make an engine to stick 'em on;D

Cheers,
Phil


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## Generatorgus (Mar 31, 2014)

Way to go Phil, I was cheering for you. It's a good feeling when IT finally happens.

GUS


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## ozzie46 (Mar 31, 2014)

Nice going Phil. Your tenacity in getting this to run is an inspiration. Well done!

 Ron


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 31, 2014)

Thanks Gus and Ron for looking in, offering support and advice.  One of my goals in building this (or any) engine is to get an up front and close look at how all the parts work together and understand the interactions between all the variables like valve or ignition timing etc.  

So having reached that goal next will be to make a carb, and get the hit-n-miss governor installed.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Philjoe5 (Apr 21, 2014)

I was getting some consistent engine running with Brian&#8217;s carby and generally the engine would run at a fast idle for up to 2 minutes before I shut it down to cool off.  I was so thrilled at this performance I&#8217;d do this 4- 5 times a day.  Then a day before AussieJimG and his wife came to visit, I had trouble getting it to run for more than 10 &#8211; 15 second bursts??

On the morning Jim was going to leave we got a respectable run, but it still ran itself out. After he left I fiddled with the spark plug and timing and got it to going for a few 2 minute runs.  The next day I noticed one of the crankshaft pins had gotten thrown clear during one of the occasional very fast speedups that I experienced.    No damage was done so I removed the crankshaft, replaced the pin, reassembled, set the valve and ignition timing and got it going again for a few runs.  Then it had one of these mysterious overspeeds (it really races) whereupon I immediately shut it down.  Lo and behold, now I&#8217;ve thrown a different pin out.  Disassemble, repair, reassemble and reset timing.

Now for 2 days I&#8217;m trying everything to get a single pop and nada!  Compression is good, intake is sucking big time, spark is there (but weak).  Finally I decide to take my generator (tractor type) battery and hook it up.  Instant success, sort of, it runs but only for short bursts.  Do not ever buy a battery that looks like this &#8211; I went through 3 of them and they are crap





Fellow HMEM member, ArtK, who&#8217;s in the area came for a visit.  I was hopeful we&#8217;d get a good run in.  Meanwhile, through all of this I&#8217;m making Brian&#8217;s carb just because I can.

Well today ArtK came by and we had a great visit.  He ran his Upshur Vertical in the basement, which immediately set off the smoke alarm, despite the open hatch door.  Art&#8217;s engine is a fine piece of craftsmanship and it really screams when he opens it up.  





 and a short video

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxGp9zQaPco&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

All we could manage on the Bonzer was some short runs.  After Art left I played with the timing and I got it back to a good solid 2 minute run before I had to shut it down.

So here&#8217;s where I&#8217;m at.  

I&#8217;ll satisfy myself over the next few days that I have a good runner.  Then I&#8217;ll install the water tank and put some miles on it.  While I&#8217;m doing this I&#8217;ll test my carburetor as well as a modified Jan Ridders.  Only then, will I move on to the next step of building the hit-n-miss mechanism.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 22, 2014)

Thanks for the update.---Brian


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## AussieJimG (Apr 22, 2014)

Sounds like it has a mind of its own and is unpredictable. Could it be a female Bonzer?

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Apr 22, 2014)

> Could it be a female Bonzer



Jim,
Absolutely.  Sometimes she cooperates and at other times, for reasons unknown, she doesn't.  And it seems that she defies logic, especially when I have visitors over to admire her.:hDe:

Cheers,
Phil


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