# Moving my lathe



## Brian Rupnow (Nov 21, 2020)

A week ago, my lathe quit. This was very upsetting, because it had just quit about 2 or 3 months ago, and had to be taken to Toronto for repairs. Fortunately, the safety switch inside the change gear cover had slipped out of adjustment, so my cost was negligible, but the hardest part was getting the lathe out of my tiny workshop and out into the garage and into my truck. I must declare right here, that I really like this lathe. I bought it new about 6 years ago, and it has performed faithfully for me. When it was brand new, I brought it home in my truck, unloaded it with my engine hoist, and hired a local machinery mover to move it into my machine shop. Two great big men stopped by, put a machine skate under the heavy end, and moved it into my machine shop. This took about 15 minutes, and they charged me $500. Never again, said I!!! That was out and out robbery. Three months ago, I moved the lathe out to my truck by myself and drove it to Toronto for repairs. When it was repaired, I unloaded it from my truck and moved it back into my machine shop by myself. That went well, but I was 74 years old in July, and it was just about more than I could handle. Last week I moved the lathe out to my truck by myself again for a trip to Toronto, but thought "there has to be an easier way to do this". I had designed and built a "transfer table" three months ago which I could load the lathe on and transport it from my truck to my machine shop. The really ugly part was moving the lathe from the wheeled "transfer table" back onto the cabinets which the lathe normally sets on.--But wait!!!!  I'm a machine designer. Damn, I'll build a machine to assist me!!! (The lathe issue was a wire coming loose on the reverse terminal inside the lathes electrical cabinet.) This first picture shows me in the process of unloading the lathe from my truck, using my cherry picker hoist to place the lathe on the "transfer table".


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Nov 21, 2020)

From my garage, one has to pass thru my office to get to my machine shop. (My "machine shop" used to be an annex of my office, with a huge old drafting table in it). The "wheeled transfer table" is quite easy to steer, with fixed pneumatic wheels and tires under one end , and swivel casters under the other end. This picture shows the lathe and transfer table in my office, having just passed thru one doorway between my office and garage.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Nov 21, 2020)

And here we are with the lathe in my machine shop, almost in it's home position on top of the cabinets on the right hand side. You will see that I have built an overhead gantry, with a wheeled carrier riding on top of the dual 2 x 4'rs passing over top of the lathe, supported on both ends by vertical 2 x 6" timbers. A threaded 1/2" diameter rod reaches from the overhead wheeled carrier down thru a 1/2" clearance hole in a 1 1/4" diameter piece of cold rolled steel held in the chuck. By tightening the nut above the wheeled carrier, I can lift the heavy end of the lathe off the transfer table and see daylight under it. It doesn't require a tremendous feat of strength to manually lift the light end of the lathe and swing it over into it's home position atop the metal cabinets. Then, in theory, I can push the wheeled carrier across to position the heavy end of the lathe above the cabinets, and unscrew the nuts on the 1/2" threaded rod to lower the heavy end into place.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Nov 21, 2020)

Now, as I said in my previous post, "In theory I can push the wheeled carriage with the heavy end of the lathe suspended from it into place". In reality, it didn't happen quite that way. The heavy end of the lathe was so heavy that the 3" o.d. diameter bearings on my overhead "wheeled carriage"  actually sunk into depressions that it made in the 2 x 4 lumber, and consequently couldn't be pushed by hand. POOP!!!.--However, I have a couple of old scissor jacks that could probably lift the Empire State Building if I wanted to, so I laid one on its side and pushed the carriage into position.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Nov 21, 2020)

With the lathe correctly positioned, it was a simple matter to lower the lathe into it's home position and bolt it into it's final position on top of the cabinets. The lumber and the wheeled carriage are bundled together and put into storage in case I ever need to do this again. (God forbid.)


----------



## scottyp (Nov 21, 2020)

Great solution - Work smarter, not harder.  If you keep your "lathe moving kit" around, you will never need it, if you get rid of it, you will need it the next day.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Nov 21, 2020)

A number of years ago, someone (I don't remember who) gave me a bunch of huge old bearings, because they knew I "Built things". I never throw anything away, so when it was time to devise a wheeled carriage to move the heavy end of the lathe, I used a piece of 1" thick aluminum bar and a couple of steel shafts to mount the bearings on. The weld spots you see are holding bearing retainers in place so they don't slip of the ends of the shafts. It worked. Maybe not quite as easily as I had hoped, but it did work. If I ever have to use it again I will bolt some steel straps to the top of the 2 x 4rs, so that the wheels (actually bearings) won't sink into the wood and make it hard to move when the lathe is suspended from it.


----------



## Gordon (Nov 22, 2020)

Are you lifting the lathe by a piece clamped in the chuck? That would seem to be risky and hard on the chuck.


----------



## ignator (Nov 22, 2020)

Brian Rupnow said:


> The lathe issue was a wire coming loose on the reverse terminal inside the lathes electrical cabinet


Was this problem caused by the previous repair of the door switch out of adjust? I looked in the manual, not much serviceable components, looks like mostly circuit card assemblies.




I like your temporary bridge crane solution.


----------



## lathe nut (Nov 22, 2020)

Brian, neat way to move it, we have to do things on our own now days those robbers are ever where, I like you work alone and don't know if I really want help anymore, they have there Ideas and don't suite what we want and where we want it, I made a boom for the front end loader for my tractor to put in the small shop and in the big shop I was able to get a Clark 2,500 pound Heister for the big shop, now that I have that don't know how I got along with out it, at the age where lifting heavy items are not in my lifting capacity anymore, glad you got it done, now its play time.


----------



## Andy Munns (Nov 23, 2020)

Do this a lot - When lifting lathes and mills never lift with forklift tines under steel and cast iron machines as the coefficient of friction is way too low. Professionals use web slings and lift from above. I run the sling down through the bed to a block of wood, then up and around each side of the chuck (Avoids bending feed and lead screws). I also chuck a piece of decent sized pipe that is long enough to reach the tailstock to keep the slings from tripping out. Keep tail stock far to the end of the bed and tweak the balance using the carriage. Awkward with a large lathe and heavy back mounted motor - Once I saw some guys pick up a back heavy lathe which tipped over backwards and smashed the motor mount.


----------



## lathe nut (Nov 23, 2020)

Andy, yes i have slings but years ago I used chains, always behind the lead and feed screw, wood to support so I don't scratch the bed, I lifted several with a track hoe, used a binder with the chains to get it level, never dropped one but move the swing very slow, I would lift them then back the trailer under them, one guy wanted to help when I got the lathe up he motioned me to swing it and walk the hoe to the trailer, called him to the cab and said, you just watch that kind of advise means you have never loaded a lathe or mill.


----------



## packrat (Nov 24, 2020)

When I bought my SB heavy 10 with cabinet full of tooling the seller was goin to lift it on my truck with a chain hocked on the cross slide & compound,
he would have done some real damage..


----------



## bluejets (Nov 24, 2020)

Seems it would be more sense to get the lecky to visit.


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 25, 2020)

Thanks for the lessons in "shifting!". I like the timber "travelling crane" I have a small (200kg.) lathe and if I ever need to move it I shall make something similar and "give it a go", as I have 4 car wheel bearings that are too big for any models. It took some back-breaking heaving to slide it up a plank onto the bench when I installed it. - One scaffold plank to a saw-horse, then another from horse to bench. One person either side to "heave, grunt and make lots of noise". But I have no lifting devices besides jacks. Although I do have some slings... which I used for 4 people to lift 200 kgs of yacht 40 years ago... = More grunt than brain!
K2.


----------



## Andy Munns (Nov 25, 2020)

For a small to medium lathe how about using an engine hoist? Owned, borrowed or hired... This is how I move these smaller units, again always slung carefully.


----------



## SmithDoor (Nov 25, 2020)

That is 440 pounds 
My self  and wife move 750 lathe last summer.  A I would not do that again and thank God for pain pills my wife said we are to old and never do that again. I was 65 and she is older. 

Dave 



Steamchick said:


> Thanks for the lessons in "shifting!". I like the timber "travelling crane" I have a small (200kg.) lathe and if I ever need to move it I shall make something similar and "give it a go", as I have 4 car wheel bearings that are too big for any models. It took some back-breaking heaving to slide it up a plank onto the bench when I installed it. - One scaffold plank to a saw-horse, then another from horse to bench. One person either side to "heave, grunt and make lots of noise". But I have no lifting devices besides jacks. Although I do have some slings... which I used for 4 people to lift 200 kgs of yacht 40 years ago... = More grunt than brain!
> K2.


----------



## HMEL (Nov 25, 2020)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Now, as I said in my previous post, "In theory I can push the wheeled carriage with the heavy end of the lathe suspended from it into place". In reality, it didn't happen quite that way. The heavy end of the lathe was so heavy that the 3" o.d. diameter bearings on my overhead "wheeled carriage"  actually sunk into depressions that it made in the 2 x 4 lumber, and consequently couldn't be pushed by hand. POOP!!!.--However, I have a couple of old scissor jacks that could probably lift the Empire State Building if I wanted to, so I laid one on its side and pushed the carriage into position.


Clever way of moving it.  If you have to do it again mount angle irons on the top of the timbers for the bearings to role on.  It will keep it from depressing into the wood and add a bit of strength.  The set up is similar to the old barns which had  similar rollers with rails to move hay across the mow.  Good job for a one man operation.


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 26, 2020)

Andy Munns said:


> For a small to medium lathe how about using an engine hoist? Owned, borrowed or hired... This is how I move these smaller units, again always slung carefully.


How medium is medium?  What is the largest one can safely use an engine hoist for?  I have the largest engine hoist I could find, also a moveable overhead crane I built many years ago.  The engine hoist is the most convenient but it only lifts so much at each adjustment.


----------



## Tim1974 (Nov 27, 2020)

Bit silly question just check your numbers on hoist and weight of lathe or what Eva your lifting basic get the rigging right and good to go


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 27, 2020)

Andy Munns said:


> For a small to medium lathe how about using an engine hoist? Owned, borrowed or hired... This is how I move these smaller units, again always slung carefully.


Unfortunately, the whole job has to go through a man-space less than 3 ft wide - then sits half over a lower workbench on tailstock end. But your overhead traveller would solve my restricted access nicely if I move before I pop my clogs! Otherwise someone else can dismantle the whole workshop. After 5 decades of all weather motorcycling, my joints are too worn for me to want to move anything that heavy.
Thanks for the post
K2


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 27, 2020)

Richard Hed said:


> How medium is medium?  What is the largest one can safely use an engine hoist for?  I have the largest engine hoist I could find, also a moveable overhead crane I built many years ago.  The engine hoist is the most convenient but it only lifts so much at each adjustment.


Hi Richard, I "cut my teeth" (aged in single figures) on a watchmaker's lathe when my grandfather taught me graving to make 4 and 6BA brass screws he used to repair clocks. Then my after taught me to use his treadle lathe - with told and screw slides! RH threads as dated from 1920s. 3 in swing, so this is what I call a small lathe as is my Unimat. At 11 School taught me to use a 6 in swing lathe 5 ft long, so maybe this is a "small" lathe? Then an uncle taught me to use his 20 ft long 18 in swing lathe (as a teenager I was "the boy" for cleaning the workshop on Saturdays). I used to skim Hillman imp heads held on a fixture on the faceplate, and Broom Wade compressor cross-heads 10 in diameter cast iron - held in the chuck and with revolving tailstock centre. This is what I call a "large" lathe. The local Model Engineers have an 8in swing 10 ft long lathe - is this what you call "medium"? 
But what about the largest lathe "where I worked" that could take a 5 ft flywheel, or machine a shaft 25 ft long? Just another "large" lathe? But I reckon "large" lathes are bigger than my garage, so maybe I am being unreal for modellers.....
Fun nattering!
K2


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 27, 2020)

Tim1974 said:


> Bit silly question just check your numbers on hoist and weight of lathe or what Eva your lifting basic get the rigging right and good to go


Not a silly comment. You are quite correct: Safety FIRST! While I can - and do - calculations on lots of things, few have the knowledge or experience to do their own calcs. The largest lift "on my shift" - as a site agent at the Bomber Command museum at Hendon - was the roof frame, using a couple of 100 ton and a 200 ton mobile crane. But the certified crane engineer had responsibility for the calcs. Get in touch with your local Model Engineering club for all proper (and free) advice and help.
Remember, it is cheaper to get good advice than to buy a new lathe when you drop one and crack or bend the bed... 
Nuff said,
K2


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 27, 2020)

SmithDoor said:


> That is 440 pounds
> My self  and wife move 750 lathe last summer.  A I would not do that again and thank God for pain pills my wife said we are to old and never do that again. I was 65 and she is older.
> 
> Dave


I'm guessing the weight of the boat... About 6 hundredweight on the trailer? But without the cast steel centre plate , rigging, rudder, anchor, etc. when lifting off the trailer. It was about the limit for 4 blokes, 2 slings (1 bloke each end, sling over shoulder, straight back and lift from legs). The smallest (5th bloke) withdrew the trailer when the boat was lifted. Same method to put it back on the trailer after repairs. I was 40 years younger then.
K2


----------



## goldstar31 (Nov 27, 2020)

Hi Up Ken!
RAF Hendon after WW2 was never 'Bomber Command', The last bomber that flew into Hendon was a converted Liberator owned by Hellenic Air Lines and was about 11th Dember 1949 and  mistook little Hebdon for Norholt and was full of Greek kids who wanted to do Christmas shopping. Actually, I watched  a Paddy corporal marshall it in! to Flying Wing HQ of 31 Squadron.
Bomber Command had a wooden hut that was Tech Wing HQ- occupied earlier by Cpl Arthur Porteous from Newcastle and me as boss of Tech Library.
So there is- and still is the geodetic supported roofing of what was R&I- Repair and Ispection and became on the RAF Museum Exhibition Main Halls and possibly what had been 'A' Flight hangar and had a stencil ;The Graham White Company' on the wall.
Perhaps you would clarify things for me

Thanks.

Norman


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 27, 2020)

Correct - RAF Hendon wasn't  Bomber Command. But the museum extension built in 1982 (opened 1983) was called the "Bomber Command" museum.. at least on our contract when we (Balfour Beatty) designed, manufactured, and erected the 3 buildings that were to house the Vulcan and Valiant and other bombers. I thinkmit is still called the "Bomber Command Museum..". These buildings are triangular space frame designs (MERO frames), the 2 pyramids and adjoining central section. I was there as Site agent for BB under Wimpey main agent. Sorry for any confusion. 
K2


----------



## goldstar31 (Nov 27, 2020)

Ken

Thanks for clearing away a few 'ghosts' which inevitably  arise. You see folks, I was a child of 7 when I discovered 'Hendon' in a cheap magazine. This was 1937! It described the 'Bombing of Port Hendon' with those wonderful old bipes- Hawker Hart variants.  There was a staged bombing and smoke and fire and by some frightening quirk it happened.  Of all the RAF units that there were- I was posted there. Not only was I posted there but 'I saw the smoke and flames' on the 21st April when a sabotaged Percival Proctor had engine trouble, tried to land again at Hendon and crashed in flames with all three crew burned alive. 
50 years to the day, I went back with the families to London's Metropolitan Police College where the crash took pplace to commemorate the even and to tank two surviving - now retired Police superintendents for risking their lives that day. 
When I got an offensive retort on Veterans Day, Mac, Tony, and poor Fred were the ones who died. They were the last to die there.

On a lighter note, 'The Wimpey' was the geodetic Wellington bomber designed by Barnes Wallis wjo designed the Bouncing Bomb of RAF 617 ( the Dambusters) Squadron-- and my 'line boss was Signals Officer to Guy Gibson VC who led the raid on the dams. The Tall boy bombs were also designed by BW and made at Scotswood! So we are back to these Emco lathes and V1's and V2's.

Years ago, I tried to provide Material for a book o Hendon.  Somebody had 'blue pencilled' parts of the story.

I'd signed the Official Secrets Act and even after all these years, it was still 'sensitive' Recall the timbered Officers' Mess and the Airmen's Married Quarters? Let's settle for' the Dirty Dozen'

Formative years-- sorry!


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 27, 2020)

Hi Goldstar31.
No apology needed. Just different times, different experiences.... I must check. It may be that my Grandfather's brother died there while flying - sorry, "not landing properly" -  back in WW1 days... Can't remember back that far ...
Also, while I was there we had a "force majeur" incident on-site - that affected some work, because there was a tiny incident in Spring '82 that took the crews fitting-out "our" Museum V-bombers to some islands, for a "practice long-range bombing exercise"... Can't say any more - I too have signed the official secrets act. When they returned the V-bombers were finished and handed-over to the Museum.








						RAF Hendon History | History of Aviation | RAF Museum
					

Hendon's connections with aviation begin before the formation of the Royal Air Force. Learn more about the beginning of our London site and its history.




					www.rafmuseum.org.uk
				



"Further expansion took place in 1978 with the opening of the Battle of Britain Museum and again in 1983 with the opening of the Bomber Command Museum. 




On 1 April 1987 RAF Hendon officially closed although personnel were still present until 1988. "

The Vulcan XL318 that flew over the ground-breaking ceremony for the official start of construction of that part of the Museum is the actual plane sitting inside the building now.  It didn't go to the action in the Atlantic - it was sitting half-assembled under "our roof" until the RAF lads returned from their holiday on an island in the mid-Atlantic to finish it off... StackPath

The first B.2 delivered to 617 Squadron, The Dam Busters, based at RAF Scampton, on 1 September 1961. Performed its last flight (and last of the 617 as a Vulcan unit) on 11 December 1981, filmed for Yorkshire Television's _617-The Last Days of a Vulcan Squadron_. Withdrawn and allocated to the RAF Museum on 4 January 1982, delivered by road from Scampton to Hendon in sections, being reassembled in the Bomber Command Museum (now Bomber Hall) by June 1982.[9][10] 




__





						List of surviving Avro Vulcans - Wikipedia
					






					en.m.wikipedia.org
				







History. So much happened that we are forbidden from telling.
Back to "moving lathes" I feel!
Sorry for hijacking a part of the thread. My only excuse is "age".
K2


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 27, 2020)

Post-script: The only "Wimpey" I worked for (as a sub-contractor) were the construction company nicknamed "We Import More People Every Year"... or something like that....
K2


----------



## goldstar31 (Nov 27, 2020)

Apologies Brian  but thank you for an opportunity to steal your post.


Might I wish you success in your repair and reinstatement of your lathe. 
Thanks for the Memory( Bob Hope?)

Norman


----------



## stanstocker (Nov 27, 2020)

This is really about engine cranes and moving heavy stuff.  If a moderator wants to move this to some other thread or category that's perfectly OK with me.

With an engine crane quite often the difficulties come from the legs being in the way.  Using a 2 ton rated crane I've moved as large as an old 1930's era South Bend 15.  We removed the overhead drive first to reduce of center load and make it less top heavy.  As this was one with the cast iron open leg set and overhead motor the engine crane worked well.  If it had been a more modern cabinet base style we would likely have needed to set the lathe down on some cribbing, then done the alternate end layer by layer removal of cribbing using jacks and tommy bars.  I have to play that game when moving my SB 10K.

As long as the center of mass can be kept safely within the footprint of the crane, weight and lift height are the only restriction.  DON'T let the load getting swinging, stop as soon as it starts and get things calmed down.  Particularly with the triangular leg configuration there is very little room for error before it can tip or flip.

Use good slings or chains, even if you spend an extra $50 on two or three real lifting slings, it's less than hiring a rigger.  Cast a suspicious eye over all the slings you are going to use.  There is no "iffy" rating here, it's either OK, or it's trash.  If using rope, figure any knot will reduce the strength of the rope rating by at least 50%.  That's one that's easy to overlook.  If you can't figure out how to do the job, get help or hire a rigger.  As Brian mentioned, they aren't cheap.  If you drop a 3000 pound engine lathe down a basement stairwell that won't be cheap either.

If you have to lift high to clear a cabinet base, get the load as low as possible as soon as possible.  Lower the load onto wood packing placed over the crane legs or a tranfer dolly if you can.  Better to drive a trailer or truck under or out from under a suspended load than to move the crane with a high up load.  Same if using a tractor, particularly with a boom pole.  A high load greatly increases the chance of tipping.  Only extend the boom as far as actually needed.  If you need to move some distance, consider putting the load on dollies.  Lift again at the far end of the move.  I've never dropped a machine or gotten hurt doing a move, but I'd rather take half an hour longer and stack the odds in my favor.  Whenever doing a heavy lift, know where everyone is, be sure everyone knows the plan, and know where the load will go if it all goes wrong.  Don't be there.  I assure you, you won't have time to get out of the way.   Lucky, hurt, or dead are the options if you stand in the wrong place.

Engine cranes have quite small wheels which easily trip even on a small pebble.  Sweeping well before using one helps.  Putting rings cut from PVC pipe around the wheels helps too, the rings need to be taller than the mid point of the wheel.  The wheel pushes the ring from the inside, the rings help push any debris out of the line of travel.  Useful with shop vacuum wheels too.

Hope everyone stays safe and healthy in these weird days!
Stan


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 27, 2020)

stanstocker said:


> This is really about engine cranes and moving heavy stuff.  If a moderator wants to move this to some other thread or category that's perfectly OK with me.
> 
> With an engine crane quite often the difficulties come from the legs being in the way.  Using a 2 ton rated crane I've moved as large as an old 1930's era South Bend 15.  We removed the overhead drive first to reduce of center load and make it less top heavy.  As this was one with the cast iron open leg set and overhead motor the engine crane worked well.  If it had been a more modern cabinet base style we would likely have needed to set the lathe down on some cribbing, then done the alternate end layer by layer removal of cribbing using jacks and tommy bars.  I have to play that game when moving my SB 10K.
> 
> ...


This is all GREAT information.  The lathe I should be moving is less than 1500 lbs.  I have a 2-1/2 ton engine hoist but I'm not sure enough that the hoist will go high enough to pick this up off a pickup bed.  I also have a strong ramp that I could bring this down.  which is my actual preference.  I trust a ramp more than a hoist but if I could use a combo of both, I will do that, as the hoist can help move it down the ramp and provide a safety net so to speaks.  When the package gets low enough, I can switch to engine hoist only.  What do thimk?  Goo plan?


----------



## goldstar31 (Nov 27, 2020)

A Haltrac or its equivalent is only £20 or less in the Uk and despite it only being pulleys and starting cord, it will take 300kg.


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 27, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> A Haltrac or its equivalent is only £20 or less in the Uk and despite it only being pulleys and starting cord, it will take 300kg.


What's a Haltrac?  This lathe will weigh in at twice that weight.


----------



## dnalot (Nov 27, 2020)

I rented a section of scaffolding on wheels to move a 1000 pound lathe into place. You can see the base in the background. Was able to do it by myself and it made aligning it to the base very easy. It also worked well height wise to lift the lathe out of the back of a pickup. Just remember to tie the lathe off so it doesn't start to swinging.

Mark T


----------



## dnalot (Nov 27, 2020)

I think for moving a lathe in confined space Brian's method is perfect. 

Mark T


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 27, 2020)

dnalot said:


> I rented a section of scaffolding on wheels to move a 1000 pound lathe into place. You can see the base in the background. Was able to do it by myself and it made aligning it to the base very easy. It also worked well height wise to lift the lathe out of the back of a pickup. Just remember to tie the lathe off so it doesn't start to swinging.
> 
> Mark T
> 
> View attachment 121032


That shop looks so familiar, as if I had been there before.  And that lathe looks exactly like the one I hope to buy soon.  Seriously tho', I see you have run a strap around the heavy head section sort of like a baby holding saddle.  (Don't know what they are called.)  Or am I just imagining that?  Is it safe, I mean it won't slip?  Do yo have any more fotos of this setup?


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 27, 2020)

Tim1974 said:


> Bit silly question just check your numbers on hoist and weight of lathe or what Eva your lifting basic get the rigging right and good to go


That's all true, but there are other considerations.


----------



## stanstocker (Nov 27, 2020)

Nothing wrong with a ramp provided it can't fail.  I've seen a ramp fail by twisting or a sudden load shift, something load rating alone can't protect from.  Figure out how you are going to get the load moving past initial friction, then how to control it if it wants to take off on it's own.  As the lathe tips onto the ramp things can get really exciting.  If you are going into a narrow doorway the ramp can even get you through the door during the initial unloading.  Just have someone outside with a crowbar or other lever to get the lathe well into the door, and someone inside with the engine crane.  I tried this solo once and ended up with a machine halfway down the ramp, blocking the door, and me inside.  In the back of my mind I could hear Baldrick saying "I have a clever plan."  Finally got it sorted out but added it to the list of dumb moves to avoid.

Might see if you can rent a gantry style crane at a local place if the engine crane doesn't have the reach.

Depending on the height of the truck you may be able to use the crane.   When moving a heavy object in a truck it's good to slide it up against the cab end of the bed.  You choose how hard to accelerate, the moron running the red light controls how hard you brake...  Slide the load back to where you can lift with the crane if possible.  Usually you can find an angle for the legs to clear the wheels and give access.  Play around getting it balanced, then lift a wee bit more, drive the truck out of the way, and lower it a bit.  Really a matter of what you are comfortable doing and have done before.  I don't like tilting loads onto or off of benches or trailers, other folks are fine with sliding all sorts of stuff on ramps.


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 27, 2020)

stanstocker said:


> Nothing wrong with a ramp provided it can't fail.  I've seen a ramp fail by twisting or a sudden load shift, something load rating alone can't protect from.  Figure out how you are going to get the load moving past initial friction, then how to control it if it wants to take off on it's own.  As the lathe tips onto the ramp things can get really exciting.  If you are going into a narrow doorway the ramp can even get you through the door during the initial unloading.  Just have someone outside with a crowbar or other lever to get the lathe well into the door, and someone inside with the engine crane.  I tried this solo once and ended up with a machine halfway down the ramp, blocking the door, and me inside.  In the back of my mind I could hear Baldrick saying "I have a clever plan."  Finally got it sorted out but added it to the list of dumb moves to avoid.
> 
> Might see if you can rent a gantry style crane at a local place if the engine crane doesn't have the reach.
> 
> Depending on the height of the truck you may be able to use the crane.   When moving a heavy object in a truck it's good to slide it up against the cab end of the bed.  You choose how hard to accelerate, the moron running the red light controls how hard you brake...  Slide the load back to where you can lift with the crane if possible.  Usually you can find an angle for the legs to clear the wheels and give access.  Play around getting it balanced, then lift a wee bit more, drive the truck out of the way, and lower it a bit.  Really a matter of what you are comfortable doing and have done before.  I don't like tilting loads onto or off of benches or trailers, other folks are fine with sliding all sorts of stuff on ramps.


I used this very ramp for a very heavy Cincinnati Mill a couple times, it was difficult but I managed it.  The lathe will be in a wood crate and much lighter.  I thimk with the engine hoist AND the ramp, I should be able to manage it, however, it is still a frightening bit of work, so I appreciate all the thots and ideas.  I thimk I will try the engine hoist first, because if that works, it will be so much simpler, hower, if that fails, bring out the ramp.

You know, I always tells my son, daughter and friends that I always LISTEN to advice, take one third of it immediately, reject 1/3 immediately and thimk about the other third for a couple days.  Some advice is frivolous from inexperienced persons, but how frivolous was the ten year old's advice to flatten the tires?  Here's what happened, a watermelon truck got stuck going into a tunnel.  The adults couldn't figure out what to do.  The kid said, Let some air out of the tires.

One time a man's tire fell off while driving by Steilacoom (a town in Washington with a psychiatric asylum--commonly we of the Soviet call the asylum 'Steilacoom' and not the town).  The owner of the car didn't know what to do but an inmate was at the fence.  He said, take a nut off each of the other three tires and put them on the spare.  I may be crazy but I'm not stupid.

So often a simple idea can be utilized that oneself never thot about, so I always hunt for ideas.  Also, one should remember that not all advice by seasoned swarf warriors is good advice--usually, but not always.


----------



## denn (Nov 27, 2020)

I just purchased one of these.








						BadgerClamp.com is for sale | HugeDomains
					

Start your new business venture with a great domain name. A trusted source for domains since 2005.



					badgerclamp.com
				



Our basement has dropped ceiling, so I can take a panel out to get to the 2x10.
For a 22" wood lathe, I put the lathe on a hydraulic lift table, then raised it, then put the legs on.


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 27, 2020)

denn said:


> I just purchased one of these.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ah, thanx for that.  I lookt it up and for smaller items, I thimk that would be fine.  But this lathe would most likely break the rafter--anyway, I don't have any rafters visible.  I do have an overhead hoist--problem with that is it is in the garage and to use it outside, I would have to disassemble it.  That's why I just want to get the lathe off the truck, then it should be a pizza cake to move it anywhere else.


----------



## dnalot (Nov 27, 2020)

Richard Hed said:


> That shop looks so familiar, as if I had been there before. And that lathe looks exactly like the one I hope to buy soon. Seriously tho', I see you have run a strap around the heavy head section sort of like a baby holding saddle. (Don't know what they are called.) Or am I just imagining that? Is it safe, I mean it won't slip? Do yo have any more fotos of this setup?



Here is a photo that shows the strap wraps around the base. I adjusted the strap to keep the lathe level despite having the motor hang off the back of the lathe.


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 27, 2020)

dnalot said:


> Here is a photo that shows the strap wraps around the base. I adjusted the strap to keep the lathe level despite having the motor hang off the back of the lathe.
> 
> View attachment 121036


That looks really stable and it looks like the straps won't damage anything nor slip.  What about the other side, it looks like cardboard to protect the metal.  I'll be having nylon straps with various types of lifts.


----------



## Steamchick (Nov 28, 2020)

Richard Hed said:


> I used this very ramp for a very heavy Cincinnati Mill a couple times, it was difficult but I managed it.  The lathe will be in a wood crate and much lighter.  I thimk with the engine hoist AND the ramp, I should be able to manage it, however, it is still a frightening bit of work, so I appreciate all the thots and ideas.  I thimk I will try the engine hoist first, because if that works, it will be so much simpler, hower, if that fails, bring out the ramp.
> 
> You know, I always tells my son, daughter and friends that I always LISTEN to advice, take one third of it immediately, reject 1/3 immediately and thimk about the other third for a couple days.  Some advice is frivolous from inexperienced persons, but how frivolous was the ten year old's advice to flatten the tires?  Here's what happened, a watermelon truck got stuck going into a tunnel.  The adults couldn't figure out what to do.  The kid said, Let some air out of the tires.
> 
> ...


Bin there dunnit.... - As a teenager, I saw a truck stuffed into a bridge that said "low bridge" - 14'10"... but the truck was 14'11".... I watched the driver let the air out of the tyres to get back out and he asked me for directions to the nearest garage for air for his tyres, then for a different route past the railway to make his delivery...
On another thing you mentioned, I had a boat on a trailer - and halfway across Scotland (Tyndrum to Ranock moor) the trailer became "noisy" and one wheel had lost 2 wheel nuts, the others being loose but still fitted. So we completed the rest of the journey with 3 nuts on each trailer wheel and the spare nut (me) driving. So good tips work!
On moving heavy equipment - Wood surfaces are best for ramps - they have the most suitable stick-slip conditions in my experience. Usually you can arrange some regular wood clamps as stops every 6 inches or so to prevent runaway... Just make sure you don't use any OLD wood, but good straight-grained scaffold planks or similar proper wood. And prop mid-points of spans - 1/2 the span is 4 times as strong! 2 planks on top of each other are twice as strong as 1, but a plank of double thickness is 8 times as stiff as the thinner plank. Thick wood = clever designer. Solid straight grained wood makes better beams than plywood. Steel on steel is more like Bambi on Ice and should be avoided where possible. Soft materials - like elastomers - are useless. Wheels on slopes need restraining ropes to prevent runaway. Any other simple rules from experts? (especially if I am wrong! - Always good to learn before making mistakes!).
K2


----------



## L98fiero (Nov 28, 2020)

Steamchick said:


> Any other simple rules from experts?


Not sure I'd consider myself an expert but if you're moving a machine in your pickup truck or on a trailer, don't put it straight onto the steel deck, put a piece of plywood or timbers under it *and strap it down!* Failing to strap it appropriately is not only dangerous but if for some reason the Department of Transport gets involved here in Ontario, the fines are pretty significant. Within reason, there is no excuse for having to worry about how fast you accelerate or the guy in front of you brakes if the load is properly secured.


----------



## dnalot (Nov 28, 2020)

Years ago when I was young I was hauling a v8 diesel engine on a to-small pallet. There were no tie downs on the deck of the pickup so you had to tie to the top of the truck's box. So I placed the engine close to the cab and tied the engine so it could not shift in any direction. I had to drive down one of Seattle's very steep streets. When I stepped on the breaks to stop at the light all hell broke lose. I thought I had been rear ended, I looked back in the mirror and saw no car behind me. And I saw no engine in the back of my truck. Looking around I didn't see it laying in the street either. So I got out and there it was sitting upright on its pallet on top of my cab. It had done a summersault and rolled inside its bounds and escaped. 

Never send a boy to do a man's work. 

Mark T


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 28, 2020)

dnalot said:


> Years ago when I was young I was hauling a v8 diesel engine on a to-small pallet. There were no tie downs on the deck of the pickup so you had to tie to the top of the truck's box. So I placed the engine close to the cab and tied the engine so it could not shift in any direction. I had to drive down one of Seattle's very steep streets. When I stepped on the breaks to stop at the light all hell broke lose. I thought I had been rear ended, I looked back in the mirror and saw no car behind me. And I saw no engine in the back of my truck. Looking around I didn't see it laying in the street either. So I got out and there it was sitting upright on its pallet on top of my cab. It had done a summersault and rolled inside its bounds and escaped.
> 
> Never send a boy to do a man's work.
> 
> Mark T


Hardy har har, that may be funny now, but that would have been WORSE than horrifying then.


----------



## Iampappabear (Nov 28, 2020)

Faced with a similar situation, I ended up with a hoist at each end the beam, I then lifted with the hoist on one end, then gradually transferred the weight to the other, it didn't actually take that long.  One difference I had though was more height to work with, your beam looks too low for such a method.

Colin


----------



## dwulfe (Nov 28, 2020)

Wow, you sure stay busy Brian,  I enjoy your posts. Keep up the good work


----------



## denn (Nov 29, 2020)

My first lathe was a 11" Sheldon and when I got home, I'm thinking, how am I going to unload this off the pickup.
I could ask the farmer, but I don't ask for help.
So my Dad and me put long plank under the lathe and slid inch by inch back, then moved the plank back.
Stacked fire wood under the plank, then moved the lathe on top of the wood.
Then keep taking the wood out till it was on the driveway, put pipe under and rolled it into the basement.
Now I'm thinking, there has to be a better way, so I built a tri-pod out of pipe so I could back under with a pickup.
Then after a couple lathes and milling machines I got a pallet jack...life is good...now I have 4 pallet jacks.


----------



## Richard Hed (Nov 29, 2020)

denn said:


> My first lathe was a 11" Sheldon and when I got home, I'm thinking, how am I going to unload this off the pickup.
> I could ask the farmer, but I don't ask for help.
> So my Dad and me put long plank under the lathe and slid inch by inch back, then moved the plank back.
> Stacked fire wood under the plank, then moved the lathe on top of the wood.
> ...


Are the pallet jacks different sizes?  Does one or more work like a forklift?


----------



## denn (Nov 29, 2020)

They don't go very high but they well carry a heavy load, I put blocking under so when I want to move, I just push the pallet jack under, about 3 1/2" height.





						Pallet Jacks - Harbor Freight Tools
					

Harbor Freight pallet jacks are built for demanding use. Move fully loaded pallets with ease. All-welded steel components. 5000 lb. capacity.




					www.harborfreight.com
				



Some things I keep one under.
There is a height lift pallet jack, but I never see them at an auction.
I could use a narrow pallet jack though for some things.


----------

