# Another Jan Ridders Flame Eater



## Omnimill (Apr 20, 2010)

Another Flame Eater Build.

Not sure this is the best project for a first engine but I really like the look of the Jan Ridders Flame Eater and NickG's well documented build has tempted me to have a go. Not sure how much time I can give the project each week, so be patient, it could be a long build!

Materials. This has already changed as the Stainless steel disc in the picture has proved to be a real pain to turn so I've binned that in favour of something else, probably Brass or Mild Steel. More materials to order!







This is my 4" X 14" Lathe I'll be doing the turning on, it's an Axminster BV20.
I don't have a Mill yet as I had to sell my 00 when we moved house a few years back. I'm hoping to get a replacement machine soon so I hope it doesn't hold up the build too much!






Vic.


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## Omnimill (Apr 20, 2010)

Truing up the end of a lump of Cast Iron so I can get a good grip in the three jaw.






Cutting the fins with work supported by live centre in the tailstock. I wasn't confident I could cut the cooling fins without supporting the bar, even so, I still had some vibrations. My Parting tool blade was 3/32" (2.3mm) so I ground it down to 2mm at the end so that I could keep to the stated dimensions on Jan's plan. The angled bracket with the threaded rod just to the right of the work in the picture is a back stop I made (I also made a front stop) especially for the project. I set this to ensure all cuts were at 6mm deep. Not sure what type of Cast Iron this is but it turns very nicely!






Final drill (16mm dia) before boring.






Boring to size. The tool is too small really but it's the only one I had that fits in the work. I'll have to get rid of any toolmarks during the lapping process.






Parting off. I was concerned that my hard work would get ruined when the blade broke though, not least with the work possibly falling off the bench! Then I thought of supporting it with the tailstock. I planned to use a piece of wooden dowel but I couldn't find any, 15mm copper tube worked fine!











Cylinder turning complete. Milling/drilling etc on this part to follow. It looks very light and "Matt" in this picture as It's just come out of my Sand Blasting cabinet. I like this finish and use it a lot, also makes marking of next operations etc easier to see.







Vic


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## Deanofid (Apr 20, 2010)

Well, you sure made a nice start of it, Vic. Thanks for the pics!
Will be watching your progress.

Dean


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## kcmillin (Apr 20, 2010)

Turning out good Vic. I like the sandblasted finish. Almost casting like. Very cool

Where did you find such a nice wick? All I can find are the flat ones.

Kel


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## Omnimill (Apr 21, 2010)

Thanks guys. I got the wick from here Kel:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....496591&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1517wt_925

Glass fibre so should last a while!

Vic.


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## Blogwitch (Apr 21, 2010)

Kel,

I use glass fibre wick in my flame licker.

If you go to most DIY stores, they should sell the replacement glass fibre wicks for the spirit burners you use for effect lighting in your garden, you know the type, a glass jar stuck on the end of a bit of split bamboo. A hank of that will last you a couple of lifetimes.

Bogs


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## kcmillin (Apr 21, 2010)

Thanks Guys. I will get some of that glass fiber wick. Sounds like a winner.

kel


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## Omnimill (Apr 21, 2010)

Turning the Bronze bushes. It's not until you actually start making some of the parts that you realise how small some of them are!






Ok, lets try that again! The hole in the first bush was way off centre, not sure how that happened. It seemed ok as I entered the Centre drill, but with components this small it only needs to be out a little bit. This time I'm trying out a Spotting drill first and taking it nice and easy ...






Second time round the bushes look much better, trimmed to length and cleaned up. I was concerned that the three jaw may deform the bushes so I mounted the collet chuck on the Lathe for this operation.






Another shot of the clean up in the Collet chuck.






I'll be using my home made Tangential Tool holder for some cuts soon so here I'm setting the correct tool height with my recently made gauge.






Cutting the thread on the Pivot Stud. To increase the chance of the finished engine actually running, I decided early on to stick to the dimensioned plans wherever possible but some parts aren't too critical so I've decided not to put a M3 thread on this part but use M4 instead - I'm none too keen on threads below this size so don't often use them if I can get away with it! I've also put a wider flange on this part as it's been cut from 6mm Brass stock. Looking ahead, I've noticed some other parts that may well be "simplified" to cut down on turning!






Progress so far.






Vic.


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## Omnimill (Apr 22, 2010)

Turning the crank from Stainless steel. No problems with this part so far except it took an age to turn as I couldn't take large cuts on my poor BV20! I suppose I could have made the crank in three parts rather than two but I think I prefer the two part approach. :-\






Parting off the crank. It took so long to make this part, I chickened out in the end and finished it off with a hacksaw!






Turning one of the two posts that support the cylinder. I decided on a more simple design for these parts.






I cut the chamfer with a HSS tool ground to 45º at first. This has worked well enough in the past, at least on alloy components. On this occasion though it left nasty chatter marks so I decided to rotate the top slide and use a standard tool.
The chamfering worked well but due to a miscalculation I don't have enough material to make another one at the moment! :-[






Vic.


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## njl (Apr 23, 2010)

Hi Vic,

Your build looks to be progressing very nicely. I like your sand blasted finish too, not something I have ever tried, when you get a free moment can you tell me a little about your set up to do it please.

Many thanks,
Nick


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## Omnimill (Apr 23, 2010)

Hi Nick,

This is the Blast cabinet hooked up to the extractor:






I run it from a 2HP air compressor, a SIP Hurricane 24525:

http://www.alexander-mills.co.uk/sip/compressors/hurricane.jpg

Vic.


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## Omnimill (Apr 23, 2010)

More details of the sandblast cabinet here:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/heavy-duty-blast-cabinet

And the manual here:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/download/Csb20b.pdf

Vic.


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## kcmillin (Apr 23, 2010)

Vic, I like your homemade height guage for the lathe. 

Also I love your shop, brick walls, open spaces, an anvil, not to mention plenty of light and a great view. Much better than my "Dungeon of Danger" 

since you are currently "sans mill" are you going to do the milling on the lathe?

great pics.

Kel


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## Omnimill (Apr 23, 2010)

Thanks for the comments Kel, the Garage is not quite as bright as it appears in the picture. This may be a better shot: 






I plan to improve the lighting with some new 5 or 6 foot twin fluorescents when I get time though. It's also not really "habitable" in winter - far too cold, or summer - too Hot!!! I'm not complaining though ... :-\ As far as the mill goes I've got the money saved, just can't make up my mind really what to get. I kinda like this one at the moment: http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-RF31-Vertical-Mill-Drill-21299.htm

Vic.


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## kcmillin (Apr 23, 2010)

Vic, I have a mil/drill similar to that one. I am very pleased with it. I am not sure about the UK, but in the states there is far more tooling for an R-8 spindle, and therefore less expensive for the same quality. I noticed that one has an M3 taper spindle. just a thought, everything els looks good though.

If I had to choose a new mill, I would go with the RF45 with a dovetail colum. also many features only found on larger mills.

here is a link to a couple available in the states. Ime sure there too.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/9-x-32-Gear-Head-Mill-Drill-with-Stand/G0484
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mill-Drill-Tapping-Machine/G0519

Kel


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## kustomkb (Apr 23, 2010)

Great looking parts and progress!

Thanks for the nice pics.

Nice shop too, love the bench's/machine stands.


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## Omnimill (Apr 24, 2010)

Thanks, one of my Benches is posted here Kevin:

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/showthread.php?59569-Easy-build-Bench

Vic.


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## njl (Apr 25, 2010)

Hi Vic,

Thanks for posting the sand blaster info. A nice tidy shop you have. I like the look of your benches, I might just have to make myself one of those too.

Nick


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## Omnimill (Apr 25, 2010)

Glad to be of help Nick, if you need any more info let me know.

Vic.


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## Omnimill (Apr 25, 2010)

Not had much time to take pictures, just this one of the start of piston/valve turning from another piece of cast iron.






Another slight change from the plans. This is the crank pin with bearing and thumbscrew fitted, turned from 6mm hex stainless rod. External thread (into crank) is M4 and internal thread for thumbscrew is M3. I prefer straight knurling so until the fine straight knurls I've ordered arrive I just used a single fine diamond knurl and must say I'm quite pleased with the result. I've also opted for a slightly different bearing size 7 X 4 X 2.5mm. I do have a couple of the specified 3 X 8 X 3 bearings but want to try the smaller one as it leaves more metal on the big end of the con rod.






Lack of machining pictures again so this is just another "progress so far" shot! I had several attempts at the Valve push rod, not sure which one I prefer. What do you think? The con rod has been rough shaped on my belt sander until I can finish it on a Mill.






Vic.


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## Omnimill (Apr 26, 2010)

Facing a lump of brass for the Flywheel.







Then cleaning up the outside.






Drilling in operation.






First side complete.






Working on the second side.






Turning ops on the Flywheel complete, just some holes to drill etc to finish off.

Vic.


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## njl (Apr 26, 2010)

Looking good Vic, your getting nice finish on that flywheel.

Nick


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## Deanofid (Apr 26, 2010)

You're moving right along, Vic, and your parts are looking gooood!

Keep it up, and thanks for the pics.

Dean


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## Omnimill (Apr 27, 2010)

Thanks, yes it's not going too badly at the moment. Sadly the project will stall soon unless I can make up my mind what Mill to buy! :-\  oh:

Vic.


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## Omnimill (Apr 27, 2010)

Not part of the build as such, but I've turned the two rods on the right to help machine the crank. Screwing the smaller (8mm dia) one in the crank adjacent to the crank shaft should help to hold the part in place while I mill the parallel flats. Replacing the smaller pin with the 19.5mm one should similarly help with milling the angled parts - I hope!







Vic.


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## Omnimill (Apr 27, 2010)

I like the look of this but it's not too local and there is the Ferry cost as well ... :big:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....18834&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_9069wt_1286

Vic.


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## kcmillin (Apr 27, 2010)

Omnimill  said:
			
		

> I like the look of this but it's not too local and there is the Ferry cost as well ... :big:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....18834&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_9069wt_1286
> 
> Vic.



That looks like a damn good deal, if it comes with the scales and rotary table the mill is almost free. 
Those stands are $250 alone. The sheild is a pretty expensive part too.

It says is comes with all the accesories shown in the photo. You could convince him to give up everything on his bench in the background :big:

Looks like you may need to go on a road trip. Or would that be a boat trip? 

Kel


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## Blogwitch (Apr 28, 2010)

Vic,



> Replacing the smaller pin with the 19.5mm one should similarly help with milling the angled parts - I hope!



It will work, I do my bits like that, resting on top of the vice jaws. Saves all the messing about with RT's and such, and you can get nice sharp corners on the transition from flat to angled.

Looking good.

Bogs


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## JimM (May 1, 2010)

Hi Vic

That's coming along nicely, you're a braver man than me, I'm just starting out on my first engine but opted for an Elmers wobbler ;D

If you get to a point where you need access to a mill and you haven't managed to source one you're welcome to use mine. I've got the Juniormil version of the 00 Omnimil so something you're familiar with plus you can give me a few pointers on how to use it Thm: I don't know whereabouts in Surrey you are but I'm in Chessington 

Cheers

Jim


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## Omnimill (May 2, 2010)

Thanks for the very kind offer Jim but I've put off buying a mill long enough, I hope to get something soon. Sadly my Powermac G5 has just packed up after soldiering along valiantly on only one CPU for the past few months. My wallet is now being pulled in two directions :-\ I now have to decide what Mill and what Mac to get ...

Vic.


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## NickG (May 4, 2010)

Vic,

I've just found this post and I would have agreed with you it's not the best first project! But looking at the work you've done so far I'm confident you'll get a running engine! :bow:

Nice work.

The push rod I found a bit of a pain to make too but it worked, I put a brass collar on to limit the stroke, found it got sucked too far into cylinder. I know Bogs silver soldered one at right angles which worked well.

Well done.

Nick


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## Omnimill (May 8, 2010)

Hi Nick, Any chance you can post a pick of it if you get a minute?

Vic.


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## Blogwitch (May 8, 2010)

Vic, 

Mine was made from a very early drawing for this engine, and because people couldn't drill all the way thru the cylinder fins with a standard drill for the 2mm operating arm, Jan changed the design by fitting bushes, which allowed a longer drill to be used, and he also changed the style of operating arm for some reason.

I think my original build article was lost when we went from a public server to a private one many moons ago.

The only things I can find left are two posts about the same pair of cylinders.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=212.0

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=350.0

I don't know if these will help you.


Bogs


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## NickG (May 10, 2010)

Vic, below is a pic of the pushrod assembled with the collar I talked about. Actually, thinking about it, I'm not sure if it is necessary, I remember now I made the collar during troubleshooting stage! You can see what I mean from the pictures below though. This was the only decent way of limiting the valve's travel in the other direction with the bent style rod.

Nick


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## Omnimill (May 10, 2010)

Thanks for the pics Guys, I was not aware that the Valve could get sucked too far into the cylinder by the piston. I'll watch out for this.

Not done any more work lately but I did make a quick sketch for the Flywheel supports:







Hoping it might look like a small pillow block if it's sand blasted and painted. Just one idea.

Vic.


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## Omnimill (May 19, 2010)

I hope to go over to Warco in a couple of weeks to have a close look at a VMC Mill, all being well I'll be able to continue the build before too long ... Thm: It's a real shame their showroom isn't open at weekends as I could have a look sooner.

Vic.


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## Omnimill (Jun 11, 2010)

I now have a shiny new VMC installed in the workshop so I hope to get back on track with the project soon! I'm half way through making some T nuts for the table and one of these should arrive next week: http://www.shobha-india.com/precision-machine-vises/precision-machine-vices-p8.html#1






Vic.


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## NickG (Jun 12, 2010)

Vic, I was looking at those at the Harrogate Model Engineering Exhibition. Was impressed and it would be my milling machine of choice if I was purchasing a new one. Seems very robust / versitile at a reasonable price.

Nick


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## kcmillin (Jun 12, 2010)

Very Nice lookin Mill Vic.

You first project on it turned out (dare I say) Cuddly. :big:
Now you dont have to worry about rats, unless your cat is like mine and will only lick a mouse, not eat it. He just wants to clean them. 

Cant wait to see more.

Kel


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## Omnimill (Jun 12, 2010)

It seemed the most versatile for the price, and not too dissimilar from my old OO just a bit smaller. Warco delivered and installed it for the listed price and supplied the large coolant tray (standing behind the machine in the pic) FOC.

I had to temp Daisy onto the mill with cat treats but she still jumped off before I could get a decent photo :big:

Vic.


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## Blogwitch (Jun 12, 2010)

Vic,

I did a lot of asking about on that machine, and there is just one major shortfall mentioned by the suppliers. 

Where the button box is situated, if you use coolant, it tends to end up dripping onto it.

I would suggest a thick polythene cover to direct the wet away, or a slight resight of the button box.

Bogs


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## Omnimill (Jun 12, 2010)

Good tip Bogs, thanks. In the past I've cut stuff dry but use a spray bottle with suds for finishing cuts. I doubt I'll install a coolant pump but if I do then I'll have to make some modifications.

Vic.


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## Deanofid (Jun 12, 2010)

That's a nice looking mill you got, Vic. Small enough to fit, big enough to be nice and sturdy. 
It sure looks the part. I'll bet you're going to have some fun!

Dean


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## AndyS (Jun 18, 2010)

Hi Vic,

Very nice build of an interesting engine you have, I must say that the workmanship is excellent. I really like the finish on the cylinder, the sandblasting gives a really nice finish.

I too started one of these engines a year or so ago (when it was published in M.E.) but never seemed to get around to finishing it, I must dig the box out after the stuart and give it a go.

Hope you enjoy the mill, I bought one from them at their open day about 2 years ago, good price and fitted with a 2-axis DRO. I have never looked back or wanted for anything else. A nice relatively compact machine (until you add the drip tray) able to take nice gentle cuts as well as taking much larger cuts in the name of metal removal. 

Can't wait to see this engine running, hopefully that's the inspiration I need to pull my finger out and finish mine.

Cheers

Andy


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## Omnimill (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks for the comments guys. I've had a few mods to make on the mill, such as removing the interlocked guard etc but it's been very nice to use so far. I've even managed to do a few bits on the engine!

Cutting the flat:






And the slot:





The finished Cylinder:





There is a fair amount of work involved in making the cylinder but the only part of it that was a problem was drilling the hole for the valve rod. In spite of very careful setup the drill still wandered off a little. Luckily I drilled it 3.5mm first and managed to "pull it back" a bit by using a 4mm End Mill where it went off. It's still not exactly right but luckily it hardly shows and everything works ok after drilling the bushes a little larger.

Sorry about the quality (and colour!) of the pictures but until I get a new Mac it's a real chore to post images at present. I have to take them as JPEG's (I normally shoot RAW on my Pentax) edit them in Photoshop 7 (normally LightRoom) on a very old G3 Mac then transfer them to my Wife's old PC (XP) for upload!!!

Vic.


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## Deanofid (Jun 20, 2010)

It looks great, Vic!
I don't see anything wrong with the pics. Don't really know why you wouldn't just shoot 
jpeg's anyway for this kind of work. Set your custom color balance in the camera to a 
white card and things should come out about right. Re-size, and you're done.

Fine looking job on what you've made so far. Looks like you and the new mill are
becoming nicely acquainted.

Dean


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## Omnimill (Jun 21, 2010)

AndyS  said:
			
		

> hopefully that's the inspiration I need to pull my finger out and finish mine.
> 
> Andy



I really liked the look of this engine but probably wouldn't have attempted it if it hadn't been for NickG's build. I hope my build through temps you to finish yours Andy! And of course th_wwp when you do! :big:

Vic.


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## NickG (Jun 24, 2010)

Great work Vic, looking really good. I love starting the engine and watching it, fascinating!

I was quite proud because at Harrogate a guy came up to me asking me all about it, turns out he'd made 1 but was having trouble getting it to run. I gave him a few pointers and we nearly got his running on the day.

1 think I did notice was, his workmanship was much better than mine, no play anywhere, but there was a minute tight spot. I showed him how mine had quite a lot of clearance in most places, except the piston and valve. Also how critical the flame position was and necessity for a large flame covering the port. I reckon with a couple of hours work, maybe not even that he would of had his running.

Yes, we hope our posts inspire other people to have a go. Having said that, I can't get motivated to finish my 'poppin' flame licker off, it's nearly 6 months since I started that now :-\

Nick


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## Omnimill (Jun 24, 2010)

It's by no means an easy engine to get running judging by the trouble shooting tips on Jan Ridders site. Fingers crossed when it comes to firing mine up! 

Vic.


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## Omnimill (Jun 24, 2010)

Quick update,

Milling the crank using one of the two jigs. The two jig pins, one at 8mm and the other 19.5mm made setting up the crank for milling quick and easy.






And a shot of the finished crank with pin fitted.






Vic.


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## bearcar1 (Jun 24, 2010)

Ooooo yeah! I'm likin' that. Pretty slick method of uniformly cutting the crank disc couter weights, Vic. 


BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (Jun 24, 2010)

That crank is a beauty, Vic!

Dean


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## Omnimill (Jun 24, 2010)

Thanks guys, I'm pleased with the way it turned out. I was a bit concerned about how I'd set it up for milling, particularly the angled parts until I thought of the jig pins.

I've sand blasted it (except the pin) which I think gives it a nice finish.

Vic.


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## Omnimill (Sep 18, 2010)

Well my build has kind of stalled since the holidays, this was as far as I got:






There is not too much more to do really but I'm not looking forward to doing some of it, like brazing the burner together - I've not brazed anything since I was a car mechanic 28 years ago ...  The other parts I need to make are the bearing supports. The alloy plate needs cleaning up and I've bought what I hope is a nice piece of Elm to mount it all on!

Vic.


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## winklmj (Sep 18, 2010)

That looks really NICE...tons better than mine does! Hurry up and finish it--I wanna see it running. :bow:


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## Omnimill (Sep 18, 2010)

winklmj  said:
			
		

> That looks really NICE...tons better than mine does! Hurry up and finish it--I wanna see it running. :bow:



Thanks, but not sure about that, your build is looking very good as well!

Vic.


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## kustomkb (Sep 18, 2010)

Your build is coming along great!

Nice jigging too.


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## NickG (Sep 19, 2010)

It looks great vic, can't wait to see another one of these running - they are very unique!

Nick


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## Omnimill (Sep 20, 2010)

I managed to get some workshop time in over the weekend:


Milling the bearing supports. 10mm bull nosed cutter in the picture was swapped for a 6mm one for a tighter radius.






Nearly finished blocks, just a bit more cleaning up and some mounting holes to drill.






The design is a departure from Jan's original so I hope they end up looking ok. Not sure how I'll mount them, maybe on turned columns again

Vic.


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## Deanofid (Sep 20, 2010)

Those look really good, Vic.


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## Omnimill (Sep 24, 2010)

I really didn't know what to make to raise the bearing blocks, I just knew I didn't fancy turning 4 columns to balance them on! :
All I could think of was this:







Not too elegant but it should be nice and solid. ;D
Just a few holes to drill and tap and it's nearly done. Should I fix the flywheel housing so that the piston is flush with the edge of the cylinder when the crank is at it's extreme horizontal position or? :noidea:

Vic.


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## Blogwitch (Sep 24, 2010)

If you have made things to the right dimensions, cylinder, conrod & piston, plus put the mounting bolts into the correct position for the cylinder, then it is an easy job to calculate out the distance from the centre of the flywheel to the cylinder mounting bolts from the plans. I think on mine, I made the holes in the baseplate for the cylinder mounting columns very slightly elongated (about 1mm), just to give me a bit of fiddle factor if needed.

That is one of the advantages when making something like this, if you keep all the original datums in their original positions, you can basically make ancillaries look however you want them.

Yours is looking very nice indeed.


Bogs


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## Omnimill (Sep 24, 2010)

Thanks Bogs, I'll have a close look at the plans. I kept the important parts to spec - cylinder, piston, valve, conrod and crank. Some other parts were determined by stock availability - the flywheel is slightly smaller in diameter for example. I think if I'm lucky I may be able to clamp the flywheel housing in place for testing before final fixing.

Vic.


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## winklmj (Sep 24, 2010)

Sweet! With all that you've got left to do we should see videos of it running by end of the weekend! ;D


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## kcmillin (Sep 24, 2010)

Lookin Awesome VIc!!

The finish you have is amazing. Such sharp lines and very smooth, Damn. 

What media are you using in your blast cabinet?

Kel


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## NickG (Sep 25, 2010)

Vic,

I love the finish and the bearing supports / housings. :bow:

I think the piston does come to the end according to plans, but the correct position is when it's in the other horizontal extreme (TDC) the pip on the piston should be at the extreme edge of the port - i.e. to fully open the valve.

Looking forward to starting attempts, I think it'll be ok! You need a burner first though haha, pay special attention to the flame / wick position and if you can get a large wick like Jan suggested, my wick is a much smaller diameter - thought nothing of it at the time but I think it has a big effect.

Nick


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## Omnimill (Sep 25, 2010)

Thanks guys, I think it's looking quite good now I've got used to it.

Kel, I think it's 60-80 grit: http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...de-powder-2/path/parts-washers-blast-cabinets But not absolutely sure, it could have been the finer stuff. I don't change the grit very often so it gradually gets finer anyway :-\

I didn't want everything to be the same though so although I've blasted the middle part of the flywheel I've polished the outside edges and rim.

Hopefully I'll have time this weekend for drilling and tapping the holes to get the bearing mount bolted down, then it's the dreaded burner ...

Vic.


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## arnoldb (Sep 25, 2010)

Vic, I've been quietly following along with your build...

It looks stunning Thm: :bow: 
I really like the finishes you're putting on the parts.

If you've brazed before, you should not have any trouble with the burner; I presume you will be silver brazing it ?

Kind regards, Arnold


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## Omnimill (Sep 25, 2010)

Sadly Arnold it was a simple "heat it up with the Oxy acetylene torch" then "dab the pre-fluxed rod on the bodywork" :big:
This was an age ago when I worked as a car mechanic. Completely different methinks to what I need to do this time. Yes, I'll be using Silver solder.

Vic.


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## doc1955 (Sep 25, 2010)

Omnimill  said:
			
		

> I really didn't know what to make to raise the bearing blocks, I just knew I didn't fancy turning 4 columns to balance them on! :



Well I like what you have done. Lookin very nice! It's always nice to see different takes on plans and to see builders stray from what the plans call for. 
Nice job, very nice.


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## Deanofid (Sep 26, 2010)

That looks good, Vic. Really good. The engine as a whole looks well done, and you can
count me as another fan of your finish work. The various mat surfaces compliment each
other nicely!

Dean


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## Omnimill (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks all for the nice comments. It's not just what it looks like though, it's got to work! I hope to get some sort of burner ready soon to see if it runs.

Vic.


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## Omnimill (Sep 26, 2010)

Yippee! woohoo1 after much fiddling about I managed to get it running this evening. Video as soon as I get a minute!

Vic.


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## fcheslop (Sep 26, 2010)

Congratulations,its a fantastic moment when they first start :bow:
best wishes frazer


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## Omnimill (Sep 26, 2010)

I think the meths I have is pretty poor so I need to find a source of supply for the "real stuff".

Vic.


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## GailInNM (Sep 26, 2010)

LOOKS GOOD!   SOUNDS GREAT!!
Congratulations. Thm: Thm:
Gail in NM


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## kcmillin (Sep 26, 2010)

Congratulations Vic! :bow: :bow:

She is a real beauty! 

I love the "Industrial Factory" type sound.

Well Done Thm:

Kel


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## zeeprogrammer (Sep 26, 2010)

That's a beauty Vic.
Very elegant.
Wonderful finish.


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## Omnimill (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks Guys, I'll need to strip it down now to finish it properly and make a wood base for it. I also need to braze up the brass burner I intend to use for it.

Vic.


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## rake60 (Sep 26, 2010)

Beautiful Vic!  :bow:

I love seeing that engine running.
I've built it twice and was never able to get either of them to run.

Rick


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## winklmj (Sep 26, 2010)

Yea...it works! Very nice looking and a good runner. :bow:





























And you beat me to it.


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## doc1955 (Sep 26, 2010)

Good job nice engine!
Good feeling seeing it run for the first time isn't it?


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## Deanofid (Sep 26, 2010)

That's just capital, Vic! I really like the way it runs at a calm, steady tickover! 
That's the kind I could watch for as long as you wanted to run it.
Your plan for a wooden base will really finish it off.

Congratulations. *Top job!*

Dean


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## Blogwitch (Sep 27, 2010)

Great result Vic.

The engine isn't meant to go any faster than that, just a steady rhythmic beat that I could, and do, watch for hours.

If your meths was too old, it wouldn't even run, so I personally wouldn't worry about it.

Super engine.


Bogs


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## arnoldb (Sep 27, 2010)

Very well done indeed Vic :bow:
Congratulations on an engine that is both beautiful and runs magnificently !!

Regards, Arnold


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## krv3000 (Sep 27, 2010)

Hi wel done


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## putputman (Sep 27, 2010)

Nice looking engine and great runner. I think your heavy flywheel really adds to the smoothness of the engine.


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## kustomkb (Sep 27, 2010)

Congratulations Vic!

Great job, looks and sounds great.


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## NickG (Sep 27, 2010)

Well done Vic! ;D Great to see another of these beasts running, as Bogs has mentioned before, there must be many under the bench!

Mine kept stopping on the old meths so I got some industrial meths and it was much better with that.

Great to watch

 :bow:


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## Omnimill (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi Nick, thanks. Yes, I'm trying to get hold of something better than the purple stuff. I'm sure it would run better on cleaner fuel.

Vic.


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## njl (Sep 29, 2010)

That's a smashing engine you've built there Vic, I really love the sound it makes. 

Nick


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## Omnimill (Dec 28, 2013)




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