# Gingery Lathe



## woodnut (Oct 18, 2011)

Greetings all.

I started this Gingery Lathe about 9 years ago. Moving 3 times has put the project on hold for most of the last 7+ years. About a week ago the place were I had it and the furnace stored closed down and I had to bring it home. I am in the process of stripping it down and cleaning up the rust and some other mistakes I noticed. The pictures below are of it quickly put back together. Still have 5 or 6 more parts to make. Hoping to be able to make some more parts soon. 












And here's a Pic of the furnace. I forgot how heavy this thing is. Just have to find it a spot in the garage.






I am almost ready to start making parts again, biggest problem is finding a place to get my 30lb propane tank re-certified. Anyone know of a place in the Burlington/Oakville area of Ontario?
My casting sand has been sifted and just needs to be hydrated. Will need to build a new flask for the head stock, but that easy. Can wait!

Hopefully I can keep on track this time. I will post more pictures as I go.

Be Safe & Happy Casting.

John


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## dsquire (Oct 18, 2011)

John

Hi and welcome to HMEM John. I've got the popcorn popping and sitting back ready to watch. Good luck with the build. :bow: 

Cheers 

Don


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 19, 2011)

Nice work there my gingerly never got off the ground I did build a furnace fired it up and never used it it is wrecked now. I since acquired several lathes. I still dream of metal casting.




> Burlington/Oakville area of Ontario?I am almost ready to start making parts again, biggest problem is finding a place to get my 30lb propane tank re-certified. Anyone know of a place in the


In my area east coast USA none want to talk about tank recerts I just get the same answer cheaper to buy new.I just use 20s and exchange them if the Hydro test date is close. 
Tin


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## woodnut (Oct 19, 2011)

Thanks Tin

I have phoned a couple of places that advertise on there web site that they re-certify propane tanks, but so far no one has called back. I did find an old 20lb tank in the back of the garage last night and of course it was expired as well. Took it to the Home Depot and exchanged it today 

I got a very dangerous package in the mail today, the wife tried to hide it but I think I came home earlier than she thought. The "Lee Valley complete tool catalog". Inside they have the Taig mini lathe for wood or metal for $268 ca and it's screaming my name. If I hadn't just spent a bunch on the Gingery Lathe getting pulleys and pillow bearings I would be running out to get one. 

Hmmm Christmas is coming.....

J


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## woodnut (Oct 24, 2011)

Tried to do some work on the lathe tonight.

Went down stairs and opened up the new pillow blocks I got last week. Grabbed the motor mount frame I built 9 years ago and...
It's off to the metal store tomorrow.






I was able to build the flask and get a couple of coats of varnish on the head stock.






Sorry this ones a bit dark. Damn crackberry camera.





After doing what i could with the lathe I turned to the CNC Machine.






After looking at the Y axis i think I will rebuild it. Now the foundry is mostly up and running I think it would be stronger to cast the Y axis truck from Aluminum.
Too many small wooden parts here.






If thing go my way I should be able to cast the head stock in the next day or so.

Be Safe and Happy casting.

John


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## ShedBoy (Oct 25, 2011)

Some good looking stuf you have going there John. I will be watching along.
Brock


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## woodnut (Oct 29, 2011)

Thanks Brock, with winter coming, I am not sure how much time will have out in the garage. Its not insulated.

Not much has happen in the last few days. Wife has been working the afternoon shift so I been playing "Trouble" with my 5 year son Zac. I did get to the store and buy the new angle iron I needed for the motor mount. At least I can rebuild this in the basement.

My neighbor came over this Saturday morning and asked if could help him move a cord of wood he just got delivered. No problem, got Zac dressed up (its only 5C here) and off we went.
After filling up the storage rack in the back the rest went into his garage. I noticed over in a corner an old car motor. I asked what he was doing with it. It's garbage he said. The block it cracked and a few other things were wrong but i think really hear anything after "it's garbage". The header and a bunch of other parts are Aluminum! Nice high quality (compared to ladders and lawn chairs) aluminum! Can I have it? I asked. Sure saves me taking to the dump. Great! we dragged it over to my garage, good thing the wife is working today, and I started stripping it down.






After a couple of hours between playing with Zac & lunch. I have it mostly ripped apart.






I still have to get all the valves, springs and what not out. Have to separate the pistons from the connecting rods. Then figure out to cut it all down small enough to fit into my crucible. 
I am glad he was in the process of rebuilding this motor as there was no oil in it. This old Toyota motor will have a new life as parts of my lathe ;D

John


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## dsquire (Oct 29, 2011)

John

Looks like a good find that engine. Some good quality aluminum for your castings by the looks of things. Is the main block aluminum as well? I hope the weather holds for you so you get a bit more time in the shop before it gets too cold. :bow:

Cheers 

Don


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## metalmad (Oct 29, 2011)

great score John
after you take out the valves and springs, dont get too fussy about valve guides etc
Once you pour off the alli, you will find them in the bottom of the crucible ;D
Have fun :big:
Pete


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## ShedBoy (Oct 29, 2011)

Yeah Pete is right, melt the ali and pick the steel out. I melted some large (145mm Diameter) Cummins pistons and it turned out the ring land was steel so I got some nice looking steel rings which will make nice flywheels with not much work. On the backyard metal casting site Lionel shows how to break down big parts with a BBQ. If you have a good refractory lining and a drain hole in the bottom you can just chuck it in the furnace and catch it out the bottom, I have broken down car rims doing this. Keep us posted.
Brock


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## woodnut (Oct 29, 2011)

Thanks Guys.

Mr Lionel and the Backyard Metalcasting web site!, almost forgot about him. Spend many hours at his site when I first started this craziness. He got me hooked on this. I built his "2 bucks" furnace and saw that he was building the Gingery Lathe, I then design and built the furnace I have now because the "2 Bucks" furnace was too small to make the lathe. I didn't put a drain hole in the bottom and I don't remember what my reason at the time was ???. The furnace is lined with commercial grade refractory. I went a bit over kill as the sides are +4" thick (it weights 150lbs or more). There is no tipping this thing over. I can still put my hand on the outside of the furnace after a 30 minute run. 

Unfortunately I don't have a BBQ big enough to put the block in. Not sure if I can soften up an area with a propane torch and then smash it with a sledge ??? 
I will have to dig out the sawzall and see how many blades I can break.

John


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## ShedBoy (Oct 29, 2011)

Just smash it with a sledge don't worry about preheating as it will just make it too hot to handle or too soft to break just squash. Heads are full of cavities and break fairly easy. Big square block splitter is even better than a sledge.
Brock


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## woodnut (Oct 31, 2011)

> Just smash it with a sledge don't worry about preheating


Thanks Brock, Smashing and bashing it is then!

Got a bit of work done on Sunday, got half of the motor mount rebuilt. Didn't take a picture for some reason? Carved 2 pumpkins with my boy. After I put him to bed I went out to the garage to see if I could remember how to ram up a mold. 





Got the head stock dusted ready for the sand.





Sifted some sand to cover the patter in a nice fine sand.





Top part all filled up.





Flipped her over and dug some sand out around the pattern to get a better match.





This is were I ran out of sand. I used up a 5gal pile mostly on the top part. Oh well off to make more green sand.





Made up some more sand, let it sit for about 30 mins, then ram up the rest of the drag. Opened up the mold and got ahead of myself and took out the pattern before I put in the other riser. So far the mold looks good. A bit of sand stuck to the base of the pattern, But I can clean up that from the part after it made.





The drag, not prefect but good enough.





Failure! While trying to put the other riser hole in, the side of the mold caved in. Knew things were going to good for my first time molding in 8 or 9 years. I managed to press the piece back into place but it fell in again and crumbled while making the hole bigger. Oh well dig her out and start again. But by this time its 11:30pm and I am off to bed. Maybe if there time tomorrow after trick or treating I will see if I can ram her up again.

John


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## woodnut (Oct 31, 2011)

I got up early this morning and ram up the mold before going to work. Covered it mold with a towel.





It wasn't too warm today, got up to 10C. rammed up the mold early in the morning then off to work.

Came home early to get ready for Tick or Treat, when out and had a blast with Zac. Then tried to calm him down from his sugar rush. We try and keep candy to a minimum.








Lots of ingots, I still have 2 5 gallon buckets of scrape and some other odds and ends to melt down yet. 





Loaded up and ready to go. I didn't take a picture but I slowly warmed up the furnace, it steamed a bit nothing else.





Fired up and running good. Defiantly have to get more sand!!





I didn't get any pictures of the pour  I was working by myself. It was nice using these ingot, next to no slag.
Not sure how this will turn out. The second riser didn't fill up from the inside. I filled it. It took all but a very small amount of aluminum that i had in the pot.
Have to wait for at least an hour before cracking this thing open. Not sure if I will do that tonight or wait till tomorrow.





This was taken 10 minutes after pouring. The outside of the furnace is only 37.1C. Now in 2 hours it will much hotter as the heat slowly travel through it.

It was fun, I almost forgot how much I liked doing this. It warmed up the garage nicely. Yes I had the doors open.

John


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## woodnut (Oct 31, 2011)

OK there was no way I could sleep tonight without opening the mold.
I did wait the hour they recommended, just.





Cracked open the mold. Hmmm looks pretty good so far. Little bit of clean up, no big deal.





Dumped it all out and started diggin the part out. So far so good 





The bottom needs to be cleaned up and there was a bit of leakage around the part line. But it whole!





Here is the pattern and the part. From what I can tell there is just a very small shrink cavity on the thickest part by the riser that didn't fill (right side). 
Looking at it now I see why it didn't fill. its really thin were it meets the part. Something to watch for next part.

Not looking forward to having to sifted all that sand and rehydrate it again. Oh well its all part of the fun.

Now on to the next part. The tool rest and bearing caps.

John


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## metalmad (Nov 1, 2011)

looks great John :bow:
one question
your ingot mold looks a bit like a cake tin?
if not can one be used ?
Pete


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## steamer (Nov 1, 2011)

Looking good John! I'm glad your enjoying this...keep the pictures coming!

Dave


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## /// (Nov 1, 2011)

Good stuff!
Got me itching to fire up my furnace again.


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## woodnut (Nov 1, 2011)

Hi Pete

My ingot mold is a commercial grade muffin pan. They fit into my crucible perfectly. My wife got it for me when "Tim Hortons" switch over from baking everything fresh on site to bringing in everything frozen. They were just throwing them out. Wish now I had gotten a couple more. 

I tried a WalMart muffin pan but it didn't stand up to the heat very well. I got one pour out of it, no leaks but it was toast after. The metal is just too thin. Even my pan will twist a bit when I fill her up. I have seen other people make ingot molds out 2" angle iron with a cap welded on the ends. Even a hole dug in sand/dirt can be used in a pinch if its not to wet. If you use a cake or muffin pan just make sure its heavy duty with no coatings. Not sure how a non stick coating would stand up to 1300 degrees?

Be Safe & Happy casting

john


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## kustomkb (Nov 1, 2011)

Great looking castings John.

Looks like a nice furnace too. Definitely a good operation to do in the winter eh?


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## Norman (Nov 1, 2011)

John, I can tell your bitten by the machining bug!!!
Start saving your extra money you will be buying a lathe and mill someday. You WILL out grow these home made machines. The building of the Gingery series is a good way to learn at home. I went low buck on the start of my adventure of metal shop from scrap and still try the low cost approach. I use a waste oil fired foundry myself. It costs me only for the electric power for the blower, I use any and all types of oil to power my furnace.
I didn't build the lathe or some of the tools the books show. You can see some of the things I did build here on this forum I think you even responded to my mill post here. Any way good luck on building our lathe I'll be watching you hopefully from start to finished machine.


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## woodnut (Nov 1, 2011)

Thanks Dave, hope it doesn't get to cold to fast. Have a hard time getting my butt outside when it cold. Hope I can make and cast the parts I need and finish them later in my warm basement.

/// I think its time to scratch that itch! Even if its just to melt down some scrap. 

KustomKB The furnace warms up the garage nicely, but I am not very fast at getting the mold ready, I did that once in the beginning, Had a full pot ready to pour but couldn't get the mold right in time. I don't think the wife will like me ramming up a mold in the kitchen table then bringing it out to the garage.  Have to break out the warm fuzzy's.

Norman. My condolences on your loss. Yes, the machining bug has bitten hard!! I am sure I will want to get better and better machines as I improve. Already saw a Taig mini lathe at LeeValley, maybe Santa will be nice? Thank you your your insight on the Gingery mill, I will keep these in mind when I start that project and I think I will upgrade the bushing bearing to tapered roller bearing for the head stock and use brass gibs on the lathe as you recommended for the mill. For the feed and lead screws (for the lathe) how many TPI would good? The book calls for standard 3/8" 16 TPI threaded rod for the leadscrew and 1/4" 20 TPI for the feed screws. 

Thanks

John


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## /// (Nov 2, 2011)

woodnut  said:
			
		

> /// I think its time to scratch that itch! Even if its just to melt down some scrap.



Oh yeah, I'm starting to itch pretty bad!
I built my furnace years ago after buying Gingery's book. I only got a couple of practice castings done when I was given a Sieg C3 7x14 for my birthday. The poor old furnace went into storage.

I will need to sort out a new burner for it. I used to fire it with BBQ charcoal and a blower.
It worked fine for Aluminium, but the ash would vitrify into a dark green coloured glass on the bottom of the furnace that I would have to chip off with some effort and damage to the floor.. I think this glass is what is called 'Clinker'?


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## woodnut (Nov 3, 2011)

Got a few more patterns ready over the last few days. 

The compound slide and the bearing caps made and one coat of varnished on them.







I put the pulley on to see how things fit. Not much room maybe a bit more than a 1/16th on either side. Hope I bore this hole straight!






I made the bearing caps a 1/2" taller than the drawings said. Thinking of replacing the bushing with roller bearings later and want to make sure their was enough room for them.
Even just sitting there it spins fairly true. We will see how badly I screw than up 

After these its the tail stock, split nut and face plate. Before you know it I will be turning perfectly good pieces of metal into scrap!!

John


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## woodnut (Nov 6, 2011)

Well Saturday was spent helping a friend build shelving units for a upcoming trade show. Take took 9 hours.

After dinner I was too tried to work on the lathe so I cleaned up the basement abit. Really need to organize things down there.

I was happy to find some books I had forgotten I had 






Some lite reading for later


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## woodnut (Nov 6, 2011)

A little bit of progress tonight.

Got the compound slide and bearing caps casted tonight. They turned out OK but will get a better look tomorrow. Had a bit of lifting during the pour, not to bad but got a bunch of flash around the parting line. 

Here are tonight's patterns.





The pour went well, with no problems. It wasn't till I cracked it open that I saw the cope had raised up about 1/8" on one side.





Lots of clean up. My sand was too dry, it didn't want to keep the nice edges. 





Here it is right out of the sand, still pretty hot.





Patterns and casting side by side. 





Will see how these clean up, I think I rushed the molding process, should of stopped and gotten the sand tempered right. 
Its easy enough to do them again if I don't like them.

Thanks for looking.

John


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## bvd1940 (Nov 7, 2011)

Real nice job, I just got my furnace lined and starting on the burner. You got me all fired up to get back to melting alu. and casting. :bow: Thanks for the updates. ;D
Bill in SE Idaho


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## woodnut (Nov 7, 2011)

That sounds great Bill.

Hope to see some picture soon! Were picture happy here 

And Welcome to HMEM!!

John


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## woodnut (Nov 9, 2011)

Got the head stock cleaned up and the bearing caps cleaned up as well.









I don't have a mill so I got a 12mm end mill bit and a 6" 2 way cross slide vise from Princess Auto and bolted it down to my drill press.
NOT the best solution, but I took it slow and just nibbled away at it. I am sure this took 10 times longer than doing it on a mill.

Got the based cleaned up and it fits pretty good. Have to drill the hole for the bolts, build the temp bracket for the boring bar, finish the motor mount, etc, etc....









Its coming, slowly but surely.

John


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## metalmad (Nov 10, 2011)

Hi John
Its looking great 
Im enjoying your build 
keep it coming 
Pete


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 10, 2011)

Glad to see it progressing to completion. I know I never got much pat the dreaming reading stage. Dis build and fill my sand box and make a furnace but the furnace died of neglect. maybe some day. 
Tin


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## woodnut (Nov 13, 2011)

A bit more progress today.

Got the pieces cut for the temporary head stock. Just have to drill and tap them.






Managed to finally get the motor mount assembled. I was thinking that was looking pretty good, locks into place nicely, then i noticed the fan belt a few feet to the right. Take it apart again, at least it was only 4 bolts.






Here are a couple of shots of it sitting in place. I have to get a new drive pulley as the one I have is 3/4" not 5/8". Its just sitting on the shaft so I could get a nice picture of what it will look like. Still have to bolt the motor to it and figure out were its going to be screwed down.









Question: How tight should the belt be? when I press on the belt is a 1/2" movement enough?

Thanks for looking.

John


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## woodnut (Nov 14, 2011)

Question on pulley size.

In the book it calls for a 6" pulley on the second drive shaft. The motor has a 2" and is 1725 RPM. With a 5,4,3,2 step pulley to a 2,3,4,5 step pulley on the head stock it gives me the following speeds (if my math is right):
top speed is 1437.5, 2nd speed is 766.6, 3rd is 431.25 and bottom speed of 230 rpm. I don't plan on doing any thread cutting as the book suggests building back gears for that. Is this a good range of speeds? I guess I can change the pulley if more speed is needed later. 

John


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## woodnut (Nov 17, 2011)

One step forward and one step back.

Click the picture to see a short video.




Temporary head stock done. Check
Motor mount and belts done. Check
Boring bar done. Check
Heat treat boring bit. Tonight
Burning electrical smell from motor. Check
Head stock ready for boring. Need to attach it to the bed and attach it to the leadscrew.
Blue lock-tight bolts. Not done

So ya, just after I took this video the motor crapped out on me. Now I am on the look out for another motor.
Still have some other stuff to do while I look. 
Have to check the boring bar again. its down to .001 out at the front bearing but .006 out at the boring end. Not sure if its bent a bit. Now that I need a new motor all the movement will probably throw something out of alignment. So far its been a fun project, I am looking forward to using this by Christmas?? We will see.

Thanks for looking. 

John


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## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Nov 18, 2011)

Here is your book online:

http://books.google.com/ebooks?id=GVdDAAAAIAAJ


Free!


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## woodnut (Nov 19, 2011)

Thanks for the link, some interesting books here.

John


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## woodnut (Nov 19, 2011)

Lucked out and found a brand new 1/2hp motor for free from a neighbor. He was just going to throw it out?!






Now maybe I can get back to making some more parts.

John


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## woodnut (Nov 21, 2011)

Slow so very slow progress, but progress.

Now that the new motor is done I re-made the temporary head stock as the old one was p--sing me off. Its now bigger and stronger and more adjustable.

OK back to the permanent head stock. Milled the top of the clamp rails, drilled/taped the holes.






All screwed on, will need some shims under it so it will slide smoothy along the bed. After the bearing holes are bored to the right size I can clamp her down nice and tight.






Even had time to drill/tap the holes for the gib screws.






Have to make the bracket that attaches the head stock to the lead screw, make a handle for the lead screw so I can turn it easier.






And I still need to set some time aside to work on the split nut. After that's done I can start the face plate.  :big:

Its late I am going to bed.
John


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## woodnut (Nov 28, 2011)

It was the wife's bday this weekend so not a lot got done on the lathe front. 

After I put the boy to bed tonight I was able to sneak down to the basement for an hour or so.

I was able to heat treat the bit, tighten up the head stock so it didn't wiggle as it moved down the bed.
I make a small mistake on the bit as I didn't round the tip. Its sharp like a thread bit so my holes are a bit rough. I still have more O1 tool steel so I will make another bit, the first one was fairly easy. Below is a small video of boring out the back bearing hole. Its still a couple thousand too small for the bearing. When the new bit is done I will finish them off. Of course the back bearing is slightly smaller then the front. Should be fun to try and get them the right size. As the book describes I put some shims in between the bearing cap and head stock in case I bore it out a bit to much. Each shim measured .005 so I should have .010 to play with if I screw this up.

The video is a little shaky as I had to turned the lead screw by hand and try to record with the other.




Thanks for watching

John


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## woodnut (Nov 28, 2011)

Got to spend a few hours in the basement today.

Finished boring out the head stock and got it mounted, put on the boring bar and pulley. I did have to remove one of the shims in the back bearing as I bored it a bit to big. I could push the bushing in and out with my fingers. Removed the shim and she bolts down nice. 

The boring bar is sticking out 8" and the dial indicator says it out by .0025" I think I can live with that 






Now to finish off the carriage assembly, cross slide, compound swivel base and compound slide. All the parts are done, just have to drill some more holes for the clamps and slide ways. 

John


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## rake60 (Dec 1, 2011)

Looking GREAT John!

Please keep the updates coming.

I'm another one who buys all the plans but never does anything with them.
It's great to see your project coming along.

Rick


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## woodnut (Dec 1, 2011)

Thanks Rick.

I was beginning to think I was starting to bore everyone.


Here is the cross slide and compound slide sitting on the bed. From what I can tell from my limited measuring equipment it very close to being 90o to the bed.







The fun for the last few nights as been trying to get the cross slide to slide along the ways without any other movement. The back clamp pad is still that tiniest too big so even if the tighten up the clamp it still moves that slight bit. 






So after I put the boy to bed tonight I will go down and take it apart again, file a bit, re-assemble, check it and repeat. 

I am hoping to sneak out of work a bit early tomorrow so I can cut the face plate pattern on the table saw. I should be able to cut the pattern to 7 1/8" circle then fine turn it on the lathe later. 

John


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## dsquire (Dec 1, 2011)

Woodnut

Just because we're not commenting doesn't mean we're not watching. If you look at the top of the page you will see that 2718 people have looked at this page so there definitely are a bunch of people that are following along. Keep up the great work there John because your going to have a super lathe when your done. :bow:

Cheers 

Don


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## Groomengineering (Dec 2, 2011)

John, not bored here! ;D

I've always loved Mr. G's Tool's series, it's great to see one come to life! Thm:

Great work!

Cheers

Jeff


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 3, 2011)

No john not bored maybe a little jealous, it is not unusual to have a hundred plus looks before someone comments. and I would venture to say a lot more folks have purchased the gingerly series than have built the projects. It is the nature of life bro. Lots of dreamers and a handful of doers. keep at it and giterdone
Tin


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## steamer (Dec 3, 2011)

keep at it and giterdone!

Absolutely...and I'm looking in.

Dave


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## woodnut (Dec 3, 2011)

I got a reminder today that you need your FULL attention while using the table saw. :wall:






I was cutting a small 1.5" x1.5" piece of wood for the faceplate and didn't pay attention at end of the cut. It caught the blade and hit me in the forehead. Never did find that piece. I was much more careful on the replacement piece. 2 inchs lower and it would hit my safety glasses. 

John


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## woodnut (Dec 3, 2011)

OK so after getting dinged in the forehead I took a break for a few hours.

Here's what I did before that: I cut the faceplate pattern on the table saw. Yep I cut a circle on the table saw

I cut a scrap piece of wood to 7 1/8" square on the table saw.






Found the center of the piece and drilled a small hole for the screw to use as a pivot.






Aligned it on my sled, screw the pivot down tight.






Now just cut off the corners.
















You have to be very careful doing this as the piece can move while cutting a try and kick back. Nice and slow and watch were your fingers are!!!

Finished pattern. Not perfectly round but close enough.






I also had some oak left from another project so I made up the pattern for the tool post. That small square piece on the faceplate is the replacement piece for the grub screw, still haven't found it's bother anywhere.






Step drilled the 5/8" hole for the spindle.






Put everything in place. Its starting to look like a lathe! Still have some fit and polish on the cross slides.






A work around for the split nut till I can cast the one from the book.







John


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## steamer (Dec 3, 2011)

"2 inchs lower and it would hit my safety glasses."

That would be the all important point now wouldn't it !  ;D

Glad your wearing them!


Great build....sorry I've missed it some but at somepoint it will stop being a casting project...and become a "machine project"....I usually have my castings done so I don't go into that fora often...but I'm poking around now!


Dave


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## woodnut (Dec 8, 2011)

After several days of filing, test fitting, filing and more filing.

Test fitting and more test fitting of the slides. *I have saw dust!!* Yep I have it working to the point were I can now true up the face plate pattern. Still have handles to make as the ones I have now work but are too small.








It's not swarf yet, But I take it for now. :big:


John


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## woodnut (Dec 11, 2011)

Been pretty busy the last few days, unfortunately it's not been in the shop  
I did find a bit of time today to screw some things up.

Work on the face plate has stalled until I can mount the pattern on the shaft without it coming loose. I got the back partly done and was working on the outer radius when it stopped spinning, the bit caught a hard spot in the wood I guess. I tried tightening the screw but the soft wood stripped. I put in a threaded inset but never could get it lined up again. Turns out my bore hole was a bit oval. I will drill it out bigger, fill it in and re-drill it later. The book says to use a threaded shaft adapter for the face plate, it should be available at your local hardware store, well thanks to Home Depot, Rona & Lowes any good hare ware store in my area are now gone. I tried to made one out of a 5/8" threaded coupling and a 5/8" bolt, but after the 3rd try and a broken tap I figure I don't have the right tools to do that just yet. I couldn't drill out the threads in the coupling out straight enough, it was noticeable out when I put it on the spindle and turn it on.

So after I broke my 1/4" 20 tap I tried to put the 60o on the end of the spindle, This at least worked out 






The next project will be the rest of the tail stock. Hope to start the pattern tomorrow, but we will see what the boss has in store for me 

John


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## woodnut (Dec 14, 2011)

Most of my metal working in the past has been trying to make pre-made pieces work together for what I need. Now with the lathe getting closer to being done I need to starting thinking about how I can make that piece I need. Since my attempts at the Threaded Shaft Adapter didn't work out so good I started to think on how I could make one with what I have on hand.

I can't remember were in this form I heard this but it popped into my head last night. "You have a foundry, stock of just about any size is just a pour away". So off the the garage and there waiting for me is the riser from the head stock. Its 1 1/4" by 6", cut off the ends, cleaned up the sides abit on the belt sander and I have a piece 3 1/2" long.









Tried my best to drill a straight hole down the center. I step drill the hole this time, Its a bit of a pain but it does make a rounder hole. Drilled and taped the set screws.









The piece was still off center but that will be trued up on the lathe. Now just have to reduce the last 1 1/2" to 5/8" and then put on the threads. I found a 5/8" 11 Die at KBC Tools just have to go and get it.






I reduced the part to about 3/4" and did some measurements. It seems that at the shoulder its .7495 and the the end its .7532. About .004 out over 1 1/2", it should be fun to figure out how to correct the travel of the slides.

Any ideas?

John


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## woodnut (Dec 14, 2011)

Here she be, my first part on the lathe  One Threaded Shaft Adapter










Tomorrow I hope to be able to drill out the hole in the face plate, fill it and re-drill it. Then if this works the way it suppose to I should be able to thread it on my adapter and finish making the pattern.

John


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## woodnut (Dec 16, 2011)

Slowly inching along. Did some more work on the faceplate pattern tonight. 

Just have to connect the holes and varnish it.






Just might be able to cased this sucker this weekend 

John


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## bvd1940 (Dec 20, 2011)

Been a real good thread and have enjoyed the good documentation you have done.
I just got my test run on my new furnace and did 3 melts, just put it into 4 pieces of round stock and one large disk for a fixture plate for my rotating index table.


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## woodnut (Dec 20, 2011)

Hi Bill

Thanks for following along. The furance looks good. Did you have any trouble getting pieces out of the cans?

Hope to see more.

Thanks

John


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## bvd1940 (Dec 20, 2011)

woodnut  said:
			
		

> Hi Bill
> 
> Thanks for following along. The furance looks good. Did you have any trouble getting pieces out of the cans?
> 
> ...


Nope works good just open the other end and make a cut down the side, comes right off.
Your work area is far to clean ;D
Keep the info coming


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## dsquire (Dec 20, 2011)

Bill

A couple of years ago I melted some lead wheel weights and poured them into salmon cans. These cans have a slight taper to them so the lead weight when cool will slide right out and you can reuse the tin for another mould. I can't imagine why they wouldn't work with aluminum as well. :bow: :bow:

Cheers 

Don


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## woodnut (Dec 20, 2011)

Hi Bill

My wife happen to be looking over my shoulder when I was looking at your reply "Your work area is far to clean" and she made me go down to my work area and take a wider shot of "The Disaster" as she calls it.

I will admit I have some cleaning up to do, I am thinking a complete rebuild of the work table with more storage. Ahh the list of things to do is never ending.





Don
Salmon cans, well I am going to have to try that in hear future. I was thinking of using short lengths of gas pipe for molds as well for round stock. If I make sure the 2 ends are de-burred well, and I smooth out the inside I should able to push it out after it cools. 

As for the lathe the only thing I got done the last few nights are the slots





A bit of sanding and some varnish and I think she will be ready.


John


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## bvd1940 (Dec 21, 2011)

That,s clean compared to my shop :bow: You can use that gas pipe to form the green sand in a bucket, be a whole bunch easier to get out of the mold compared to getting out of the pipe IMHO 
God bless & merry Christmas ;D


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## woodnut (Dec 22, 2011)

I wanted to get a 5/8" reamer, I only need it to ream out the faceplate bore hole in the pattern so couldn't see going and buying one. 

In the 6th book of the Gingery series they show you how to make cheap hand reamers.

I have some cold rolled 5/8 left and cut a piece to size, took my time measuring and cutting the angle.

Filed all the cutter makers off, then went to the honing stones. When through the 4 different stones I have, which is probably over kill since I am just going to cut soft wood with it.

Here it is, turn out pretty good.







Went over to my drill press and try to put the newly made 5/8" reamer into my 1/2" chuck. ???
Hmmm it seems I don't have anything to put this into to ream the hole I need. But I have a nicely finished 5/8" reamer 

Guess the 5/8" drill bit will have to do. 

List of things to buy - 5/8" chuck for drill press.

Oh well, it was fun making it.

John.


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## woodnut (Dec 24, 2011)

Well, the wife is a work, my son is at Grandma's. Christmas presents bought and wrapped. Couple of hours to kill, so, it's not to cold out, off to the garage. 

An hour later one tail stock pattern 3/4 done.






The face plate has one coat of varnish, The tail stock is coming along. Just might be able to cast these next week???


Hope everyone has a great Christmas!!

John


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## Norman (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm enjoying watching you build your lathe Woodnut. I've built a few of the gingery tools, shaper, mill, and dividing head.
I've since got the machining bug so bad I've invested in more tools, a G0602 lathe and a G0619 mill and a bunch of tooling to use those machines.
 I found the foundry one of the best things I've built for making the toys I want to make. I didn't use Gingerys designs to build the foundry just searched the web to find the ideas to make my foundry. I use waste oil to fire the foundry which is very inexpensive to operate. Plus it's a very simple design gravity feed for the oil and no special stuff to make it work. It takes about 20 minutes from lighting the furnace to melting the metal it takes more time to set it all up.
 Well enough rambling from me I waiting to see your lathe completed soon I hope. 
The only draw back from building the Gingery machines is they are not real robust for doing larger work but for a learning tool I don't think you can beat it sort of like a home schooling on metal working. 
Oh yea Happy new year!!! To you and all. ;D
Norman


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## woodnut (Jan 1, 2012)

Thanks Norman, and Happy New Year as well.

I have enjoyed working on the lathe over the last few months and was thinking of diving right into the milling machine after I finished this. But I am now thinking it might be better to save up and buy a small one. It will probably take longer to save up for one then build it, but then it would be stronger and more accurate. I don't know, any way I will finish the lathe first and have some fun with it for a while before I make any final decisions.

Speaking of the lathe, not a lot has happen the last few days. I have enjoyed time with family and friends and only have putter around with the lathe. The face plate is ready to be cast and the tail stock is not far behind it. 

Me and my work area had it out the other day, I kept putting tools down and it kept hiding them on me. So it was time for a over hall. Sat down and drew up a new work table. Took my son to Home depot and got some wood. Got it home, check it all out and then put Zac back in the car and went back to the store to get the wood cut right this time. For some reason I took 2' 7" for 27" and not 31"?? Zac learn a new word that day. At least I could use the mis-cut pieces for the drawers.

New shop table.





Still have 12 more drawers to build. The open space between then will be shelves for bar and round stock. I got the cardboard tubes from a carpet company free for the asking. They usually just throw them out. They are 4" round 12' long, cut them down and I have easy storage. 

When done I am sure I would be able to find anything. 

John


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## terryd (Jan 2, 2012)

woodnut  said:
			
		

> Thanks Norman, and Happy New Year as well.
> 
> ............................. For some reason I took 2' 7" for 27" and not 31"?? Zac learn a new word that day. At least I could use the mis-cut pieces for the drawers.
> 
> ...



Hi John, 

Nice work bench. Haven't we all made that mistake with feet and inches. It's one of the reasons I now use the metric system now, it's not foolproof but it is easier to read drawings without making those sort of mistakes.

As for now being able to find things, I'm not so sure. I still lose the tool I have just put down on the bench, and then after 30 minutes of futile searching I find it in exactly the place where I put it  ???. If I listen carefully I can just hear the hiding fairy giggling from some corner of the workshop Rof}! 

Have a great New Year,

Best regards

Terry


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## woodnut (Jan 7, 2012)

Hi Terry

I like the metric system better as well, but the panel saw at the home depot is "inches only" and I didn't bring my cut sheet with me. Ohh well, it all worked out in the end.
The new bench is coming along, can't believe I have used 6 1/2 sheets of plywood!! I do have 16 drawers now (you should seen the face on the guy at the panel saw when I gave him my cut sheet for the drawers :big, now lots of room for the shop fairy to hide things on me.

Took a bit of a break from fighting the shop fairy today and finally got the face plate cast!!

Making the sand mold for this today was a pain, Not sure if it was because I tempered my sand a bit wetter then I normally do, or I didn't have enough of an angle on the sides for it to release.
Took 4 tries before I got it to release without the mold being completely useless. It's far from a good casting but, a bit of clean up and she should work just fine.

















John


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## woodnut (Jan 8, 2012)

Well it's seems that something went....wrong.


Either the shaft miss aligned when I put it into the mold or all the attempt's at getting a good mold caused something to wrap. 






Across one center its pretty even turn it 90o and its out by over 1/8" AND I can't get it off the shaft. The book says to just drive it out. All I manged to do it mushroom the top. Didn't move a bit.

I think I will use a sand core for the remake.

John


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## Norman (Jan 8, 2012)

Go ahead and machine it. If it don't turn out good you can redo it. Machining it would be good practice if you screw it up at least your trying. 
Did you soot the shaft before you did the cast? Sometimes a little heat to the aluminum will allow the aluminum to expand a little so you can press off the shaft.
It don't look all that bad.
Norman


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## woodnut (Jan 8, 2012)

Hi Norman

No I didn't soot it, I do remember reading that somewhere, but didn't remember to do that at the time.

It WOULD of been a good practice piece, but I didn't support it enough while hammering on it, I still only moved it 1/4", I will try the sooting and heating the next time. 






So I went back to the pattern, and yes the shaft hole is off. Put it on the lathe and it wobbles just like the cast piece did, not quite as bad. 
Checked the drill press and yep the table is tilted to one side just a bit. Loosen up the adjusting bolt, re-adjust the table with my square and 1/2" bit in the chuck. Re-tighten.
Drill out the shaft hole to 3/4" and put it on a spare shaft and it looks to spin true. So glue in the 3/4" piece, let dry, cut ends flush, re-mount in drill press, re-drill the 5/8" hole, put on lathe and she still off a bit, but much better. Going to have to play with the drill press some more to get things lined up right. While the pattern is on the lathe I adjusted the sides to give me more draft. Hopefully this will help me remove it form the sand mold easier. 

Not the best day in the shop, but I will take it over a day a work any day.

John


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## bvd1940 (Jan 8, 2012)

Ouch!!!! that,s to bad,  oh well practice practice :
I am still watching your progress but I am not going to build the shaper now as I picked up a 8 inch Logan and just about have it all cleaned, painted and fine tuned ;D
I dont like pouring AL on a steel shaft for the reason you found out, if I must, I use a short shaft that i can bore out if it is to stubborn 
Will be waiting to see the chips fly when you get it scoped out.


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## Norman (Jan 8, 2012)

Well don't feel bad you can fix that pretty easy.
 My new Dro on my metal mill died tonight less than 2 months old working one minute and the next the read out just turned off no power inside of it? Checked the fuse which was good. Put a meter on the end of the power cord that goes into the read out head and I have 120 v ac. So something inside the read out head has quit. So back to Dro Pros it's going to go. That really burns my butt!!!
Just an up date on the dro the guys from Drp Pros called me and told me to send it back they will make it right. Can't beat that!


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## woodnut (Jan 16, 2012)

Well the SWMBO said the the honey do list was being ignored, so time in the shop has been little.

I did manage to do a couple of things. I was following Lazylathe on his concrete counter top build. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=16122.0
And of course, I can do that, popped in my head.

Had a bit of plywood left from the new bench, measured up the lathe.






I wrapped the plywood in plastic as it was rough. Glued in the dowels for the bolt holes, I can drill them out later (if i can find them :).
A good couple of hours later it was poured. I used my sawsall with the blade removed to vibrate the sides. I guess i didn't do this enough as there was bubbles all over the sides. I didn't take a picture of that. I did mix up some cement only and using my hands filled in the holes. Sprayed a bit of water on top and covered her up. She won't be glass smooth as my experience with concrete is limited. I have done lots of post holes for decks, thats it.






For what I need it for I think that it will work out fine. 

There are TOO many good ideas on this form!!!

One of these days I will finish one project before starting a dozen others. Ha! who am I kidding....

John


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## woodnut (Jan 22, 2012)

I was able to get a few hours in over the last few days.

I took the forms off the next day and drilled out the wooden dowels while the concrete was still soft.






So far everything looks good. Took apart the lathe from its old wooden base and did a test fit. Some how the holes lined up?? There was a bit of a wobble but i was able to scrape some of concrete that was going to be under the foot down a bit. Sits nice and flat. I will probably paint the base at some time, not sure when or what colour. 






Covered it back up and sprayed it down with some water for a couple of days, took off the cover and let it dry for a few more days. 
The holes go right through the bench, I got some 3/8" threaded rod and cut 8 pieces 6" long, the concrete is 3.5" and the bench top is 1.5", some washers and nuts and she is bolted down.






I started her up on the highest speed and there is still a bit of a bounce, but no where near what it was like before.

Tomorrow goal is to recast the face plate or cast the tail stock. Not sure which one I will try yet. Hopefully it won't be -15C outside tomorrow.
If its too cold maybe I will finish the drawers? Who knows...

John


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## woodnut (Jan 22, 2012)

Hot Stuff. ;D

The picture really doesn't show this to well, the whole inside of the furnace is glow red hot!






The pouring of the face plate went well, just waiting for things to cool down. I sooted the shaft this time so hopefully I can get it out this time.

John


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## woodnut (Jan 22, 2012)

So far it looks good.






Even after sooting the shaft it won't come out, so I am going to have to drill it. First I have to get the face some what flat. Made sure the shaft was long enough to fit into the lathe. 
Faced off the front, so far everything is working good great.






Need to make some sand cores for the tail stock. See if I can't do that some time this week.

Thanks for lookin.

John


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## metalmad (Jan 22, 2012)

Hi Woodnut
Great going Mate Keep it up 
Love this build 
Pete


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## woodnut (Jan 24, 2012)

Thanks Pete.

Today's fun was getting the cross slide adjusted. After taking several passes on the face plate I checked it to see if it was flat, close it was about 1mm off over 3.5", it was high in the center. Had to take the whole cross slide assembly part so I could file the guide down a bit. Filed it, put it back together, check it, take it apart, file it, put it back together, check it. Only had to do this 4 times thankfully.






Put everything back together and faced her off again. After about 3 passes I check it again and it seems to be right on. Of course I only have a 16" metal ruler to go by.
I wanted to get rid some more of the surface imperfections so a kept on taking off more. Just a bit at a time. Not sure if something got loose or flexed but on one pass about 1.25" from the center the bit started diggin in. Can't see it in the picture too much as I turn more off, It must of dug in about 1/16". Ok I had the bit out a bit far so moved that back and faced off again. everything was good for another 5 or 6 light passes, then it started to do it again this time about 1/8" from the outer edge. Not as bad but not sure why its doing it? 






I think my bit is still out too far, really have to make a metal tool post!! I was able to do another 2 passes, I used my calipers and only took off .001" each pass, it's not glass smooth but it's not bad for someone with no training at all.

I am sure the wife will like the new mess I can make with this!! 

Before I forget I did get the shaft out. I was able to drill it out. Thanks to me not being able to center anything, when I got up to the 9/16" bit it just took out one of the sides of the shaft just enough so I could beat it out. My Reamer I made and thought I couldn't use came in handy. I put it in the vise and hand turned the face plate on it. Face plate fits on the new shaft great, Drilled and tap for the set screw and off we go.

John


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## dsquire (Jan 24, 2012)

John

I have been following along on your build here and like what you are doing. One piece at a time and it will all come together. Sometimes it seems as though one isn't making any progress then a couple more pieces and it all starts to come together. Keep up the good work, I'm going to keep watching. :bow: :bow:

Cheers 

Don 6493​


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## bvd1940 (Jan 24, 2012)

Nice job John, your going to end up with a lathe ifin you keep at it


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## cfellows (Jan 24, 2012)

Nice job on the lathe. I admire your tenacity!

I suspect the wooden tool post is the source of your tool creep problem. Wood has too much flex in it for metal cutting. I once tried making some #2 Morse Taper shanks out of hard maple. That went nowhere fast!

Chuck


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## woodnut (Jan 27, 2012)

Thanks for the comments.. These little pats on the back and tips are very helpful.

As I am waiting for the sand cores to dry enough to take out of the mold I started the lathe dogs that are described in the book last night. 4.5" and a 4.25" piece of 5/8 square stock and some 5/16" bolts.







The bigger 1.5 x 1.5 pieces will be the new tool post. I drilled and tapped all the holes and enlarged the 2 in the smaller piece so the bolts will go right though. Hunted around the shop and couldn't find any 5/16" bolts. It didn't really say how to do the hole in the middle that will grip the piece you are holding so I just drilled it out to 3/8" as this was the only measurement I could find for it in the book. Should I file the sides smooth and in the shape of a V or just leave them???






Looking at this picture now and I am going to have to buy some more 5/16 bolts with longer threads if I want to hold anything smaller than 1.25"D. 

But first I have to make a new tool post. I was hoping to mill the slot in the side of the tool post like the wooden one I have been using, but I don't really trust the compound slide I have.
After reading Brain Rupnow "Bought me a monster" post I ended up on Busy Bee web site. I was looking for a Rotary table and found a nice 4" Chinese one on sale for $125. I was looking for a rotary table for a future project. Busy Bee isn't to far from where I work so off I go  

Well.... As Brain encountered the item I wanted wasn't in stock. I was going to order it anyway but got looking around the store and found a 5" x 12" compound slide, on sale, and in stock 











So for $4 more then the rotary table I now have a better compound side table. I can bolt down my 4" vice and hopefully I can now make the tool post.

I have read other posts about new machinery and everyone tears them down and cleans with up, re oils them and puts them back together. What cleaner should I use? I don't have any degreasers at the moment. 

I should be baking sand cores tonight if they have dried enough to get out of the mold in one piece 

John


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## woodnut (Jan 31, 2012)

Well, it seem I've had a foreseen set back. 

It seem that I have hurt myself, nothing to do with the shop or foundry work, but it might be a awhile before I can cast any more pieces.
Doc says I have ripped my left bicep, I don't remember doing anything that strenuous?? I'm sure I'd remember something like that!
But a side affect is the muscles in my shoulder blade, neck and chest are trying to compensate for the injured arm and are now spasming out on me. 
Got some new pills today so we will how they work. We will see what the ultrasounds say. But NO lifting. I am not one to sit around and do nothing so this could be fun.

I am going to try and finish the few pieces I have made already. Tool post and face plate, I can still stand and turn a handle at least.

I will still be lurking in the back ground watching all the wonderful stuff you guys make. 

John


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## rake60 (Feb 2, 2012)

OUCH!

You take care of yourself there John!

Rick


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## woodnut (Feb 7, 2012)

Well the good news that my bicep is not torn! :big:
Now just have to figure out why my shoulder cramps up into a knot.

Wife won't let near the shop which is a good thing, as I probably do something dumb.
I know now why I have various hobbies, there is nothing on TV.

I should know more at the end of this week as more tests results come in. 

John


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## steamer (Feb 7, 2012)

Well...Hope the doc figures it out soon!

Get well soon!

Dave


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## woodnut (Feb 11, 2012)

Thanks Rick and Dave.
All the results came back clear so that means nothing is torn which means no surgery :big:

So now its off to physio to get things back to working right.

Last night I went down to the shop and played a bit. I had gotten the new cross slide cleaned up and put back together before my shoulder got too bad.
I had cut the new tool post to size already and I started cleaning it up last night.






The new compound slide works great, still not a good as having a mill but it will have to do for now.

I had bought 3 end mill set (1/8", 1/4", 3/8") from Busy Bee for $15.00. So far they seem to cut fairly well.






Started cutting the channel for the lathe bits, so far everything is working out good, Hope to do some more today, still not allowed to lift anything but sittin around driving me up the wall.
See if I can get the tool post finished this weekend and then finish cleaning up the faceplate. 

Going on vacation in about a week so hopefully when I get back I can try and casting the tail stock. 

John


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## woodnut (Feb 12, 2012)

Finished the tool post last night, Drilled and tapped the holes this morning.
My tap wasn't long enough so I had to drill a larger hole for the first 3/8". I had visions of the tap breaking but all went good.






Started finishing the face plate again. The whole thing feels much better now. I think I will cut in another groove in the opposite side of the tool post to allow for faster tool changes instead of having to rotate the tool post.






Face plate is almost done, as you can see I have found some air pockets here and there. I don't think they are big enough to worry about. I am going to make another just for the practice. 
I am sure the deluxe accessories book (which I think the shop fairies have hidden on me) calls for a heavier face plate, a solid 3/4" one. But that will have to wait till I come back from vacation.

John


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## steamer (Feb 12, 2012)

Looking Good John!

Dave


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## woodnut (Feb 12, 2012)

Thanks Dave!!

I managed to sneak back into the shop after dinner for a bit.

Put the face plate on the drill press and milled out the slots.






My set screw must of put a burr on the shaft as the face plate won't come off. Had to put 2 bolts with nuts on them though the slots and against the head stock, by turning the nuts I was able to slowly force the face plate off the shaft. Wish I had though of this before I put all the little dents in face. Ohh well, face it off again the then lay out some lines every 1/2" for practice. 

John.


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## woodnut (Feb 19, 2012)

Frustrating!!

The last few days I have been trying to fine tune the main cross slide. 
While facing off the inside of the face plate I have noticed that when I reverse the main lead screw the cross slide either moves forward about .010 then reverse or it twists that amount. I notice while trying to do the inside corner on the outer rim that when I reversed the bit out it took more off then when I move it forward, I tried taking as much movement out of the lead screw as I can without making it to tight to turn. I also tighten the gib screws, any tighter and I wont be able to turn the lead screw at all, and I still have this slight movement. I have taken the whole thing apart and filed the way down a bit, putting a straight edge on it doesnt show any low or high spots. 

Frustrating.


John


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## ncollar (May 24, 2012)

John 
That is a gorgeous machine you are working on. I have always enjoyed the different ones that did a good build log. And you have done a nice job documenting it. Looking good and I'm sure you will work out all the bugs. The only thing I could add is maybe scraping the guides might tighten things up more. Scraping put small spots on the metal which holds oil similar to ball bearings. Keep up the good work.
Nelson Collar  :bow:


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## woodnut (Jul 10, 2012)

Hello all.

Sorry I havent update this post in a while. Nelson thanks for the kind words.
Unfortunately I havent had much time to work on the Lathe lately. My arm and back seem to be back to near normal, turns out it is a problem with my neck pichin some nerves. Just have to be careful lifting anything heavy.

The problem with being a jack of all trades is that someone is always asked you to do something. Dont get me wrong I love working on different things for others, my wife well.. lets say I am a bit behind doing those things at home. But I did rebuild the closet, moved the door from the bathroom into our bedroom, of course there was a wire in the wall were I wanted to put the door. I hate the attic. Did double rows to hang clothes, a custom cabinet in the back with a place for her shoes. The guy who cut the plywood for me at the depot screwed one sheet up so I got it free! &#9786;
So I built a small tv cabinet that bolts to the wall, no legs to stub my toes on and somewhere to put all the kids DVDs.

Rona was nice enough to have a paint sale a little while back, so you know what else I have on my list. Thats after I remove the last bit of stucco from the ceiling in the front hall.

I also built a fairly large cabinet for a friend of the family, its 40 wide 24 deep and 8 tall. Had to make it in 2 pieces so I could get it up to them. The fun part was lining up the electrical they wanted inside and the pipe chase for the TV cables. 
Then there was the call for a back splash, they were having company from out of town and wanted to know if I could do it right away. Sometimes I am too dumb to say no. Nothing says father day as grouting someone elses back splash. Still had a good time with the family thou.

I still have a bench, a fence and a custom gate to build before it gets to cold to work in the garage and sure there will be more to come.

I did mange in all of this to buy the last few parts for my CNC machine. Most have been delivered already. Been trying to spend some time learning Mach3 and figuring out how to convert Autocad to Gcode. I tried a couple of converters but they didnt work to well. So far I draw it up in Autocad, save it. Open it in Draft Sight ( for some reason AutoCad won't save it in a DXF fle that lazycam will open), save it as a DXF file, open it in LazyCam and input the rest of the info like height of the piece, the tools used, depth of cut, etc, etc. Save it as Gcode. A bit of a process but so far the test files I have made have run in Mach3 ok. So far Draft Sight is just like AutoCad and once I am more up to speed on it I might stop using AutoCad. We will see.

OH and yes once it stop being a zillion degrees outside I cast the last few pieces of the lathe.

Well that enough of a rant for one night.

John.


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## woodnut (Jul 21, 2012)

I know this is a bit off topic, but

Just a quick vid of a motor test for the CNC machine.


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## dsquire (Jul 21, 2012)

John

You sure have a mess of wires and pieces on your workbench! If you want to clean it up, just shove it into a box and send it to me. Heck, I'll even pay the shipping. Haha. 

I sure envy you. It looks like you are having fun. I'm sure that you will have it sorted out and running in short order. Good Luck.

Cheers (smile)

Don


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## Annie (Sep 5, 2012)

Thankyou for documenting your lathe build so thoroughly John.  I'm one of those people who purchased Dave Gingery's books some years ago, but never actually built my own lathe.  My excuse is that an old rattly monster of a lathe was offered for sale cheap in my local area so I bought it instead of building my own.


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