# Elmer's #6 -- Slider, a slide valve engine



## ksouers (Dec 27, 2009)

With all the nice builds going on I thought I'd jump into the fray.

I thought I'd make Elmer's #6, Slider. It's a slide valve engine, basically the same that Zee made but without reversing gear. I'll be working with the 3 basic food groups: brass, steel and aluminum.

The nice thing about Elmer's engines is many are basically the same cylinder and valve layout. If you've made one you can make all of them, it will be very familiar territory.

Don't expect this to move fast, I get very little shop time.

Enough already. Let's get started:

Short version: I cut some brass and poked holes in it.

Long version:

I'm starting with the cylinder block, 360 brass. Basic operations, cut it then square it up and bring it to size. By the way, there won't be any secrets let out here or fancy tricks to be learned. I'm a hacker. I just whittle at metal until it resembles what I want.







Once I got it to size it was time to put some holes in it. I just worked on one face today, starting with the valve. This thing is tiny. I probably should do this on the X2 instead of the Powermatic.








This is actually the second one I started. I ruined the first one, tapping the third hole I ripped out the threads. Dumb, I didn't feel the tap tighten up at the bottom of the hole and cranked it just a little too much.

The holes have been successfully tapped and the exhaust holes have been drilled. Still need to drill the exhaust out the side. The pockets were milled out with a 1/8 inch end mill. Funny, the end mill looks huge next to the cylinder.






This face is almost complete. Next is to drill the angled holes to the cylinder ends but that will have to wait for another day.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 27, 2009)

Ah...excellent.

Two things stand out for me...one is in the first shot...the face of the part looks absolutely smooth! I get wavey things at best.

The second is the last shot...the pockets look nice!

Stay with the long version...it's more interesting. ;D


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 27, 2009)

Your build is looking mighty fine! I just love Elmer's designs!

If your having trouble with the tiny dimension and parts, you won't be the first one.

I swore I would never build another of Elmer's designs with out scaling it up 100%.

But, when your build is finished, you'll revel in the accomplishment.

Hack away! :big:

-MB


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## ksouers (Dec 27, 2009)

Thanks for the support, guys.

Zee, that has the wavy finish, too. The smooth look is just a trick of the camera. I guess the light was at the wrong angle to show it much. Though the finish from the Powermatic is less wavy than the X2. But then the Powermatic is a much larger machine.

MB, thanks. This is the second Elmer's engine I've built, so I knew what I was getting myself into ;D They are great little engines. He gives you the basics and you get to dress them up from there.


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## ksouers (Dec 29, 2009)

I managed to sneak a few minutes in the shop tonight. Didnt get as much done as Id like, but some is better than none. Got set up to drill the angled holes, these are the passages that lead from the pockets in the valve body to the ends of the cylinders. I also wanted to get the exhaust hole drilled but bed time came a-calling.

These are the tools used tonight, a #54 drill, a 16 degree angle plate and I set up the tool makers vise on parallels in the big Bridgeport vise. Since the BP vise is already square, the small vise is as well. The plans call out a #55 drill, but I didnt have one so #54 was used instead.






I picked up a set of these shop-made angles at an estate sale. The set is complete from 1 degree through 45 degrees in 1 degree increments. Each one is hardened tool steel and precision ground. Somebody went to a lot of work to make them, I couldnt just leave them behind.






The plans call out for the hole to be drilled at a 16 degree angle. The angle is held flat against the jaw face with one hand while holding the work firmly to the angle, pressing it down to the vise ways with the other. Then with your third hand tighten up the vise. The angle is then removed. Its a mildly fiddly job but easier than trying to do it with a protractor.






The hole is drilled completely though. If I did it right the hole should break out about 1/32 inch from the end of the cylinder. Well find out after I bore the cylinder.







Zee, this one is for you. It shows the wavy pattern a little better.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 29, 2009)

I danced around a few times too, with the magic-jumping angle plates.

If I may, I would suggest wiping the fixed jaw and the angle plate with lighter fluid, and then applying only one strip of double stick scotch tape between them. It holds so well that a few choice words may come forth when you try to retrieve the angle plate. :big:

-MB


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## Deanofid (Dec 29, 2009)

That cylinder is looking nice, Kevin. I agree with Zee, the pockets look good.
It's nice to see a fellows fingers in the shot once in a while. Everyone knows how big a finger is, and gives a good sense of scale. This is smaller than I thought.

I'm so glad you could rescue those angle plates. They represent a bit of someone's life in the craft/hobby. I hate to think that they may have ended up at the recycling center because no one knew what they were!

Hope you get more shop time soon.

Dean


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## ksouers (Dec 30, 2009)

MB, thanks for the tip. I hadn't thought of that, I'll have to try it next time.

Dean, thanks for looking in. Yeah, it is really tiny. But that's part of the fun, and the challenge. The estate sale I got the angles from really sticks out in my mind. The guy had a LOT of stuff, only about half of it was store-bought. The stuff he'd made was really top quality, all tool steel and hardened. Too bad I couldn't buy everything, but I did get the angles and a couple v-blocks. I try to buy the handmade stuff at estate sales whenever I can. I like to keep the maker's legacy alive.

Thanks, everyone, for looking in.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 30, 2009)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Zee, this one is for you. It shows the wavy pattern a little better.



Yeah...well...compared to mine it looks smooth as glass. ;D

Is there a particular advantage in using the 2nd vise? Why not just use the angle plate in the lower vise?


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## ksouers (Dec 30, 2009)

Zee,

Thanks for checking in.

The simple answer is I wanted to use the smaller vise, but didn't want to go through the hassle of indicating it in.

The small vise isn't as deep as the BP vise, so it was a little easier to use the angle plate. The plate is not as tall as the big vise is deep, so it would have been lost below the top of the jaws. Much of the part also would have been below the tops of the jaws and not easily visible to me.

Basically, it just helped to bring the work out where I could see it. It didn't seem so lost in the larger vise.

These reasons alone are not worth going to the expense of purchasing a second vise if you didn't already have one. However, if you have an opportunity to obtain a smaller second vise at advantageous cost, I'd jump on it. A small tool makers vise like this (aka screwless vise) can be quite handy and are a nice compliment to a heavy vise.

I think it was Dean who showed a similar vise set up except he had the screwless vise set at an angle. This allowed him to do repeated operations without completely going through the set-up process each time.


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## JMI (Dec 30, 2009)

The thin angle plates - nice!

Jim


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## Deanofid (Dec 30, 2009)

Kevin, yes it was me who had the regular vise in a larger one. It was for drilling the angled set screw holes in the flywheels on my current build.

I plan to make a 1" vise to use in my regular mill vise, which is already pretty small. Being able to setup tiny pieces on odd angles in the small vise while it is out from under the spindle, then putting it in the larger vise will make some things easier.

Dean


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## ksouers (Dec 30, 2009)

Jim, thanks for dropping by.

Dean, ah yes, I remember now. Been trying to catch up on the builds, everything is a blur. Thanks.


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## Deanofid (Dec 30, 2009)

I know what you mean, Kevin. I try to read all new WIP threads and a few of the other sections everyday, but still can't keep up even with those. There's a lot of good activity on this forum. Lot of good folks.

Dean


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## ksouers (Dec 31, 2009)

Not much done today. Drilled and tapped some 2-56 holes for the head and crosshead. Also got the exhaust drilled. Should have time this weekend to finish the cylinder and start on some other parts.


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## ksouers (Jan 2, 2010)

Got to spend a goodly portion of the day in the shop, but it was just too dang cold to get much done. It seems I spent more time trying to get warm than actually doing something. My shop is in the garage and I have a small corner partitioned off, thats where the lathes and the X2 are. Also I keep the drill press, tool boxes, surface plate, table and a small stool in there. That part is mildly heated. The rest of the garage is not. The big mill is out there and thats where I was working. And it was COLD! +4F, briefly getting into the low teens by mid afternoon.

I also wasted a goodly amount of time making some thin parallels so I could drill out the cylinder bore, only to find out after I was done that they would slip into a gap between the fixed jaw and the ways of my screwless vise, the new parallel was too thin span it. Ah, well. So I cleaned up the old sacrificial aluminum ones and got the cylinder drilled and reamed. I got a little chatter just as the ream entered the cylinder but not bad at all, its right at the edge.

I also cut some 1/16 inch brass for the valve and cover plates. Got the valve plate drilled and polished everything up with some wet/dry. Still need to drill the clearance holes for the studs.






Another shot, just because.


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## Deanofid (Jan 2, 2010)

You're a dedicated man, Kevin! I'd be wearing a parka in the shop if it were 4 degrees, and still wouldn't be able to get anything done.

The parts are looking good!

Dean


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## Powder keg (Jan 2, 2010)

Good looking parts)


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## ksouers (Jan 2, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> You're a dedicated man, Kevin! I'd be wearing a parka in the shop if it were 4 degrees, and still wouldn't be able to get anything done.
> 
> The parts are looking good!
> 
> Dean


I messed up the valve grid a little, the drill wandered on a couple holes, not enough to make it over though. Everything still lines up OK.

It was a little warmer than 4 in the garage, but not much, the shop was 60 ;D

I was well dressed, believe me. But I could only hold onto the handles for so long then off to the shop to warm up. The routine was something like: change collets, put in edge finder, go warm up, find edge zero DRO, find other edge zero DRO, go warm up, change collets for drill chuck and drill, go warm up. You get the picture. Not a lot of time in front of the machine.


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## ksouers (Jan 2, 2010)

Thanks Wes. I'm trying... ;D


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## ksouers (Jan 9, 2010)

Ok, time to get back to the engine. Its another cold one here in the Midwest so I didnt spend much time in the shop. For those that looked in on the vise stop build this is what I needed it for. I put the clearance holes in the valve and cover plates.

The part to be drilled was set up on parallels and indicated in using the edge sticking out and the fixed jaw of the vise, there wasnt enough of the part sticking out to get the edge finder on it. The vise stop was also set in place and tightened down.







Once the hole was located it was a simple matter of drilling it.






Here is where the stop came in handy. The part is symmetrical, the holes are in the same place relative to the corners. Once a hole is drilled the part is simply flipped and placed against the stop and the next hole drilled.






The part is then flipped again for the next hole, and so on till all are finished.






I also cut a piece for the steam chest and fly cut it to size. Next job is some 4-jaw work on the lathe. I get to work in heat for a change. Yes!






Thanks for looking in.


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## Deanofid (Jan 9, 2010)

Your parts look good, Kevin. 
Nice demonstration of the vise stop in use, too.

Dean


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## ksouers (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanks Dean.
Just tellin' the story for posterity so when I'm old and feeble my wife can read it back to me as she wipes my chin :


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## Maryak (Jan 10, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Just tellin' the story for posterity so when I'm old and feeble my wife can read it back to me as she wipes my chin :



What you too. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Seriously Kevin nice work and the scale is pretty small. Your eyes must be pretty good for an old guy :

Best Regards
Bob


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 10, 2010)

Nice work Kevin. Thm: I'm with Bob - impressively small scale for my eyes. For reference sake, what size are the holes in the 3 x 3 grid?

Cheers,
Phil


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## ksouers (Jan 10, 2010)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Seriously Kevin nice work and the scale is pretty small. Your eyes must be pretty good for an old guy :



Bob, thanks for stopping by. 
Uh, I use several cheaters of various types 




			
				Philjoe5  said:
			
		

> Nice work Kevin. Thm: I'm with Bob - impressively small scale for my eyes. For reference sake, what size are the holes in the 3 x 3 grid?



Phil, thanks for looking. The grid is #57 (.043) sized holes, .100 x .0625 center-to-center from each other. The entire grid is .200 x .125 on a side.


I can see things well enough most of the time. My biggest problem is holding onto the bloody things. I'm always dropping something then it's a scramble to find where it bounced to. :


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## ksouers (Jan 17, 2010)

Not much done on the engine today. But did get to spend most of the day in the shop. The mill got trammed and lubed. Since the vise had to be removed that led to a few general maintenance projects. It was still a good day in the shop.

After getting the mill squared away I spent the rest of the afternoon in the heated shop doing lathe work. The steam chest has two spigots turned on the ends with holes drilled through them. One hole is where the valve rod enters the chest and a longer one opposite for a guide for the free end of the rod. The rod guide spigot is supposed to be a blind hole, but I drilled it from the end. Ill close it later with a plug that will be soft soldered in and finish it off with a file.

The steam chest is rectangular and the holes and spigots are off center, so this was a job for the 4-jaw. The 4-jaw is set up in the C2. A pump center is used to get the part lined up. The part was marked up earlier and the centers for holes punched. The pump center is just a length of 3/8 drill rod (silver steel) that has a sharp point on one end and a small center drilled in the other. The point rides in the punch marks made earlier, the other end is held by a dead center. As the chuck rotates it moves the end of the rod around, this is measured with a DI.







Once a hole was drilled it was time to turn the spigot. Theres a couple things going on in this picture. To the right of the saddle is a holder for a dial indicator. The cutting tool is touched off on the end of the work piece, then the indicator is moved in compressing the plunger enough to measure the length of the cut and locked down. The saddle is advanced the length of the spigot. On the left side of the saddle is a stop. Once the saddle is in place the stop is moved up against it and tightened down. I can now make the repeat cuts to bring the spigot to diameter without worrying about the length of the cut.







The part was then turned around and whole process repeated. The remaining rectangular part is supposed to be the same dimensions as the valve face on the cylinder block. I ended up .003 too long. Close enough for gummint work.  ;D






Tomorrow Ill finish it off in the mill. Several holes need to be drilled and the center milled out. Then well see what other jobs I can get done.


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## Maryak (Jan 18, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> One hole is where the valve rod enters the chest and a longer one opposite for a guide for the free end of the rod. The rod guide spigot is supposed to be a blind hole, but I drilled it from the end. Ill close it later with a plug that will be soft soldered in and finish it off with a file.



Kevin,

It's also a possible to mount a displacement lubricator on the guide rod spigot, instead of closing it off.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Deanofid (Jan 18, 2010)

Nice bit of work, Kevin. I laughed about that .003" over part. If it were really gubment work, it could be 3" over, and you could tell everyone it was a good job.
; )

Interesting idea from Bob, that one about the lubricator.


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## ksouers (Jan 18, 2010)

Bob,
Good suggestion there! Yes, it would be the perfect place for it. Hopefully other readers will take note. This engine will be run strictly on air, however. It's intended as a gift for a friend who is into model railroading, but he hasn't a clue about how steam engines work. Hopefully by having one in his hands to play with he will understand. He's an engineer type so I'm certain he'll have it apart within 5 minutes of my being out of sight 


Dean,
...And it would have been made out of wood. ;D


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## ksouers (Jan 18, 2010)

I got back on the steam chest today. I drilled the clearance holes for the studs and drilled and tapped the inlet and milled out the center portion. I didnt want to take a chance on hitting the parallels so I milled a little more than half way through then flipped it over and finished from the other side.











Then I started making the crank disk out of 4130 steel, just because it was handy. I cut a short piece and chucked it up in a collet on the 9x20. Faced it and drilled the center hole 3/32 for main shaft.






The part was then moved to the mill, centered vertically, and the offset hole for the crank was drilled, also 3/32. Thats as far as I got before my back gave out.






I also cut a couple pieces of 1/8 inch 303 stainless to finish off the crank, but thats going to have to wait till tomorrow.


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## ksouers (Jan 19, 2010)

I finished up the crankshaft today. I started out by parting off the disk from the parent stock. Using the parting tool always increases my pucker factor, reminding me of a metaphor about a straight pin and a sledge hammer.






It was successful. No shorts were soiled today. Here is the part with the back side ready to be cleaned up.






Doing something this short requires a little backup. In this instance a short piece of aluminum stuffed inside the collet behind the part. The draw bar adjusts how far the part sticks out the front. I have enough extra length on the draw bar to make this possible.






Here it is in use, the back side of the disk is being faced off.






Now its time to turn the bearings. The main bearing is just a piece of 1/8 inch rod with a for section turned down to 3/32 that plugs into the disk. The throw bearing is turned down to 3/32 its full length. Here is the throw being turned.






And a finished crankshaft. The pieces are a very tight press fit and locktited into place.






I also got started on the D valve. I cut a piece of 1/4 inch square brass and cleaned up the ends on the mill and brought it to size. It was now time to mill out the pocket. I used a 1/16 inch end mill and went round in circles a couple times. Seems it was also time for a stuff up. When it was done I found my math was a little off. This thing is so small I cant see whats going on. All I can do is read the DRO and only later do I find the mistake.






Its starting to look like a collection of engine parts.






Thanks for looking in.


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## Deanofid (Jan 19, 2010)

Yes, it does look like engine parts, Kevin! 
I keep forgetting the size, until you mention something like the crank journal being 1/8" diameter.  You need M&M's for scale.

Too bad about the goof. That happens to everyone, unless they don't build anything. 
You deserve some cheaters so you can see what's going on. ; )

Dean


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## ksouers (Jan 19, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Yes, it does look like engine parts, Kevin!
> I keep forgetting the size, until you mention something like the crank journal being 1/8" diameter. You need M&M's for scale.
> 
> Too bad about the goof. That happens to everyone, unless they don't build anything.
> ...



Thanks Dean.

I'm not worried about the stuff up. It certainly wasn't my first : Nor the last.
Just another part to be made, that's all.

I've got lots of cheaters. It's the getting old part that I need to cheat on...

The trouble I had with this part was (well, other than my math mistake) line-of-sight. The end mill is so tiny that the work is hidden under the mill head. I don't have direct sight of the part, it's just a little golden spot in the middle of the vise tucked way up under the spindle somewhere. I even extended the quill a bit to try to get a better view. It did help some, but the angle is still bad. Also the pocket just holds chips, in short order the tool is just moving through a pile of chips and somewhere at the bottom of it some work is being done.

I don't want to sound like I'm blaming the machine or the part, I'm not. I screwed up the offsets. All the other stuff just makes it awkward is all.

But I don't really need to see it. All the info is on the DRO. If only I had calculated the offsets correctly the pocket would have been where it was supposed to be. Ah well. 

Yeah, I'm going to have to find a size reference. I think an M&M is probably too big. Do they still make tic-tacs?


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 19, 2010)

Kevin, Your build is coming along nicely. Don't feel bad about the little milling mistake. It's happens to me more times than I'll ever admit. I concentrate on reading the hand wheels and counting turns. I cant see, or bother to look at some of the small stuff till it's over. And once in a while, "OOPS, the end mill just went out the side!" :big:

-MB


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## ksouers (Jan 20, 2010)

Thanks for the support, MB.

Naw, I don't feel bad about it. A little disappointed maybe, but that's about it. 
I didn't get fired. ;D

Besides, I've got plenty of opportunity to make more  :


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## Maryak (Jan 20, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Thanks for the support, MB.
> 
> Naw, I don't feel bad about it. A little disappointed maybe, but that's about it.
> I didn't get fired. ;D
> ...



Kevin,

Commiserations on the part, great hobby because you can make another bit and the good bits stay good. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


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## ksouers (Jan 20, 2010)

Thanks Bob.

They are all "good parts". Uh, just not for this engine :
And those that end in the trash bin (not the scrap bin) were never parts to begin with.

At least that's my take on it ;D


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## ksouers (Jan 20, 2010)

D valve: 1
Kevin: 0

Round 2

I redid my numbers and gave it another try. This time was successful. Yep, it's a tiny part.






After finishing the D valve I started on the valve rod. I messed up the first one. On the first part I finished the 1/16 inch end and started on the middle part, doing it in sections so as not to stress the rod. I knew I was shooting for .090 rough size but for some reason I was thinking .0625 and proceeded to take another 20 thou off. Just dumb. Brain fade, old age, dementia. Something like that.

Any way, here is the second part. Im waiting for some tools due to arrive tomorrow so Ill have a 2-56 die to finish this up.






I also got started on the bearing block. All cut and faced to size. I should have it finished tomorrow.
It's starting to look a little crowded.







Disclaimer: No M&Ms were harmed during this project.


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 20, 2010)

Holly molly! Are those parts small or what! 

If I ever build this engine, it will have to be at least double in size.

Good work Kevin! :bow:

-MB


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## ksouers (Jan 20, 2010)

Thanks MB.

Yep, they're itty bitty, all right. I'm wondering if I should have made them on the Sherline.


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## Deanofid (Jan 21, 2010)

There ya go! That M&M really lets everyone know what you're working with. Even smaller than I had in my mind, and that's a pretty small place to begin with.

Good going, Kevin.

Dean


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## ksouers (Jan 23, 2010)

I didnt get as much shop time today as I had planned. The tools I was expecting yesterday arrived and put to use. I finished threading the valve rod and got it fitted to the steam chest. I still have to drill for the pin and shape the end before parting it from the parent stock, then slot it for the eccentric strap.







I then started on the valve adjusting nut. A thin piece of 1/16 inch brass was cut, squared and brought to size then drilled and tapped to match the 2-56 thread on the rod.






After drilling and tapping the nut was cut from the parent and brought to size. You can almost see it in this shot.






Finished. And its only .006 too tall. Not bad for just eye ball work and a scale, I couldn't mic it while it was in the vise. I little work on the wet-dry and it's ready to go.






The nut with its mate, the D valve.






Here is the steam chest sub-assembly.






The parts are growing. I didnt get to work on the bearing block like I wanted to.






Disclaimer: No M&Ms were harmed during this project.


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## ksouers (Jan 24, 2010)

I got to finish up on the bearing block today. There was nothing special about it, just straight forward milling and drilling so no pictures. The bushings were also turned from brass and the hole reamed to size. While the bushings were still in the lathe a rod of the same size was chucked in the tailstock and run through the bushing to burnish it.






Next up was the con rod. I cut a length of 1/4 inch brass rod and turned down the small end to size. The piece was then chucked up in a collet block to mill the flats. The small end first, then the big end.






The part was moved back to the lathe for turning the big end down to size and start profiling the taper. Everything was turned down for the big end then I changed tools to start shaping the narrow part at the small end by plunging straight in. This is a time to go slow as plunging usually causes a lot of chatter.






OOPS!






I think I need to change my strategy. Maybe next time Ill profile the small end before I start turning the rest down to size so Ill have less sticking out of the collet.






Disclaimer: No M&Ms were harmed during this project. (Its all Deans fault)


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 24, 2010)

Kevin, when I machine a small thin part like that in the lathe I leave an extra 1/4" on the end and center drill it for a tail stock center, and then later saw of the excess with the lathe off by using an 'Exacto' Saw. Then the rounded end can be hand finished with file and paper.

Just a suggestion that could work in this case.

-MB


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## gbritnell (Jan 24, 2010)

Hi Kevin, everything is starting to take shape very nicely. Here's a little tip for you. You said you couldn't measure the piece because it was in the vise. Take a piece of .375 diameter by 1.00 long round stock and drill it out .047, or some small standard size. Drill and tap from the side into the .047 hole, 5-40 will do. Now cut a piece of .047 rod by 1.00 long and square up the ends. Use this as a depth tool. Allow the center rod to lightly slide in the bushing as you push it down to meet your stock then snug up the screw. Now mike across the whole affair and subtract 1.00. It's a handy little measuring gauge.
gbritnell


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## ksouers (Jan 24, 2010)

Thanks MB. 
Yeah, that crossed my mind, too, but I discounted it. I probably shouldn't toss out the basics so quickly just to do something a little differently.


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## Deanofid (Jan 24, 2010)

Yeow.  I'm afraid I saw that bent piece coming up, Kevin. 
Eat a few of those M&M's. They'll make you feel better about the experience. Especially if you already "had" the experience! Works for me, anyway.

It's still coming along nicely! I like this small stuff.
Good pics and writin', too.

Dean


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## ksouers (Jan 24, 2010)

Thanks for the support, George.

Now that's a neat little trick. That's easier than the one I'm working on.

I have something similar where a small rod slides through a block, the rod poking out both sides. I need to make up a collar for a dial indicator, so I can poke the rod into it and read the measurement on the DI. Marv's idea originally, I stole it.

In this instance I just stuck a 6 inch scale next to it. It wasn't a critical dimension, close enough was close enough.

I'm certainly going to make up your suggestion, though. I can see that being real handy. Thanks again.


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## ksouers (Jan 24, 2010)

Thanks Dean.

Yeah, you could see it coming a long way away, couldn't you.

Just me being stubborn. I had it laid out how I was going to do it even though I knew the risk ahead of time. But I had to do it MY way, I could get away with it if I was just careful enough... :

I'm not much of a choco-holic. But I do like the peanut M&Ms, but they aren't as uniform in size.


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## Deanofid (Jan 24, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Thanks Dean.
> Yeah, you could see it coming a long way away, couldn't you.



Only because I've seen it happen to _someone_ in my own shop, more than once. If he wasn't my sisters' brother, I'd fire him.

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 24, 2010)

I've been trying to catch up on all the threads...I was already being surprised by how much was going on...but this one...gee whiz! I can not believe how small those parts are!!! That requires some awesome patience!



			
				ksouers  said:
			
		

> Disclaimer: No M&Ms were harmed during this project.



You say that as if you're proud. But M&Ms are meant to be eaten. Just ask Dean. ;D


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## ksouers (Jan 24, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Only because I've seen it happen to _someone_ in my own shop, more than once.



It wasn't my first pretzel, either :


Thanks zee.
Yeah, I guess it does take some patience. I don't get much done in a shop session. Seems I spend about 5 or 6 hours and only have one part to show for it. Well, and maybe a boo-boo. But then I spend some time looking over the plans again or doing a little machine maintenance, too. I've been on "vacation" this week, so I got quite a bit of shop time. But that's all over now.

I spent some time today making tools, as well. Just a simple holder. I may do a quick thread on it when I finish it.

Actually, I kinda like the small stuff. It definitely requires more concentration, which gets my mind off my day job or other mundane life issues.

Oh, and I do eat the M&Ms. But I don't torture them ;D


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## ksouers (Jan 31, 2010)

Getting shop time this weekend has been rather difficult; just an hour or two scattered about and not much to show for it. I did get a chance to finish the con rod I ended up bending last week. The process was basically the same, so no pictures, but I did it in smaller stages this time. It worked, so now I have another technique I can use if the need arises.

Finished con rod.







And the obligatory group shot.






Thanks for checking in.


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## Deanofid (Jan 31, 2010)

Getting pretty close, and looking good, Kevin. 
A few round bits, a few flat bits, and it will puffing along.

Thanks again, for the pics.

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 31, 2010)

That is a great group shop.
Really nice stuff.

So you went for the green M&M eh? The femme fatale.

We should do a poll sometime..."What M&M are you?" heh heh


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## ksouers (Jan 31, 2010)

Thanks for the support, Dean.
Yeah, got a few pieces to go yet. Almost there, maybe another month or so at this rate :



			
				zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> So you went for the green M&M eh? The femme fatale.



Thanks zee.

I just use em as they fall out of the bag ;D
Though I try to use colors I haven't used before I suspect I won't be using the brown ones on the black granite backdrop.
I really do need to do something about the lighting in that corner...


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 31, 2010)

Hi Kevin. Your making real good progress for the limited time you spent.

All the parts look great. Their small enough to justify a camera attachment for a microscope!

Nice looking piston too! But why is it green? ;D

-MB


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## ksouers (Jan 31, 2010)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> Nice looking piston too! But why is it green? ;D



Uh, moldy brass??  ;D

Thanks for the support, MB.


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## BigBore (Jan 31, 2010)

Come on, Kevin......keep it classy.....that is _patina-ed_ brass. "Moldy"?   Shame on you.

Ed


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## doc1955 (Jan 31, 2010)

Looking good I can relate to small. That steam chest looks great you've done some excellent looking work!
I also can relate to not getting much shop time. Between my real job and all the other things going on you try and get as much done as you can when you do get to the shop.
I like the m&m in the pics trouble here there would be no m&m's left by the time I got to taken a picture if you know what I mean. :big:
Keep up the nice work and pics!


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## ksouers (Jan 31, 2010)

You're right, Ed. That's patina...
Thanks for the correction ;D


Doc, thanks for the support. I got the big bag of M&Ms. I'm not a big chocolate fan, so they'll last awhile.
From the looks of things I think your engine parts are very nearly the same size as this.


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## doc1955 (Jan 31, 2010)

The steam chests look very close I like the slide valve set up in yours better than in the one I'm working.
A big bag of m&m's would mean even less would get done :big:
m&m's are a weakness of mine!


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## ksouers (Mar 27, 2010)

Wow! The last post was in January. Has it really been that long? I know I havent had much shop time lately but I didnt think itd been that long since the last update. I really had to go digging to find the thread. Page 5 

A few things have been made since the last update. Between traveling for work, many late evenings, working weekends and family matters, play time has been scarce. Well, I did warn early on this could take awhile.

I managed to crank out the cylinder standoff and finally got the base plate drilled. Ive started on the eccentric strap, just drilling the holes, but no shaping. I needed the big end hole to size the eccentric.

Making the eccentric allowed me to do some 4 jaw work today on the C2. The eccentric is now done except for drilling for the set screw. Sorry, I didnt get any pictures of that, but youve all seen lathe work before. Then stupid me forgot to include it in the group shot. :








And finally! A mock assembly shot! It includes the eccentric.






Thanks for looking.


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 27, 2010)

Oooh, nice Kevin! That's starting to come together realy good, and looks great!

I went digging for your thread a while back. I thought I might have missed the Grand finale. I found it alive, and have been waiting patiently ever since.

Don't worry about how long it takes, everybody should understand that priorities come first, and a hobby is...well... a hobby.

-MB


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## ksouers (Mar 27, 2010)

Thanks for the support MB.

Let's see, you've gotten 3 completed to my one incomplete... I think I'm a little behind ;D

I'm not worried about this going fast or slow. It's the relaxation I get that's most important to me. Life gets pretty hectic now days between work, family and community obligations so this forces me to push all that aside and concentrate on the job at hand. Safety requires it, if I can't devote 100% concentration then I don't go in the shop.


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## Deanofid (Mar 27, 2010)

Sure is going to be a cute little thing, Kevin.
That word "little" is deceptive. It usually means tight work and bitsy parts.
Looking great!

Dean


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## ksouers (Mar 27, 2010)

Thanks Dean.

Yes, this thing is tiny, with lots of itty bitty parts. Well, OK, everything is an itty bitty part ;D
The base is only about the size of a credit card, though I don't think I'd want to carry this around in my wallet.


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## BigBore (Mar 28, 2010)

You had to hunt for the thread? I had to search for the PDF I was making! I found it and it's updated and ready for more.

Looking good! Thm:

Ed


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## kvom (Mar 28, 2010)

I just finished maching the slide valves on my current project. They're about 10x the size of yours, so I can appreciate how much effort it was to make it. Those parts are too itty-bitty for mne.  ;D


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## ksouers (Mar 28, 2010)

I had to do some work work this morning, got that out of the way early and headed out to the shop. I had intended to finish up the eccentric strap and the valve rod. But I didnt feel like doing it so made the cross-head guide/cylinder head.

I grabbed a 1 inch round piece of 12L14 and turned down the spigot then drilled and reamed it 1/4 inch per plans. The plans call out a rather odd dimension of 11/32 for the outside of the cross-head guide, but I made it 3/8 so it will fit into a collet. 

The piece was parted off then held in said 3/8 inch collet to face the back. Then off to the mill to drill the bolt clearance holes and trim it down square. I messed up the bolt holes but itll work. Somehow I didnt get them in quite the right location, the square pattern was just a tiny bit small. The plans also called for drilling the 1/4 inch guide .625 deep, I did that and it seems a little short. I may end up making another one, Im not too happy with it.






Its starting to look like an engine.






Thanks for dropping by.


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## ksouers (Mar 28, 2010)

kvom,
Thanks for checking in. Yeah, they're tiny ;D
I may not do another one this small, old age is catching up to me. I just can't hold on to, nor see, things this small anymore.

By the way, you need to put something in your pictures to judge the scale by. The cylinder looks nice, the cast iron should be even better.

edit: Oops! I see that you did...


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 28, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> By the way, you need to put something in your pictures to judge the scale by.



And so do you! ;D But you did mention the credit card scale...and wow...pretty small.

How did you cut that curved side of the piston rod guide (not sure about terminology)....the far left side in the last pic?


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## ksouers (Mar 28, 2010)

Thanks Zee.

Hey, I got M&M's in the previous pictures ;D
Yeah, it's damned small.

The curved side is a leftover. The part was turned from round stock, then squared up to match the shape of the cylinder block. I just didn't do that side.


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 28, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Hey, I got M&M's in the previous pictures ;D



Oops. Indeed you do. I'd seen the pics...but that was further back in time than my memory can hold. ;D



			
				ksouers  said:
			
		

> The curved side is a leftover. The part was turned from round stock, then squared up to match the shape of the cylinder block. I just didn't do that side.



"I just didn't do that side." 

There's a lot that was said in that sentence. Whether consciously or not...you made a decision that affects the look of the engine. I wish I had more skill in the 'art' side of things. Sometimes not cutting something is better.


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## ksouers (Mar 28, 2010)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> "I just didn't do that side."
> 
> There's a lot that was said in that sentence. Whether consciously or not...you made a decision that affects the look of the engine. I wish I had more skill in the 'art' side of things. Sometimes not cutting something is better.



You give me too much credit. I was just being lazy.
I have the artistic talent of a thumb tack.


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## rake60 (Mar 29, 2010)

It's great to see some progress Kevin.

I was wondering what you have been doing with all of
your spare time. 
:hDe:

Rick


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## ksouers (Mar 29, 2010)

Hey Rick! Thanks for stopping by.

Yeah, I was glad to finally get some shop time. It's been weeks and I was afraid some furry little critters had taken up residence.


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## kustomkb (Mar 29, 2010)

Nice work Kev!

That's going to be a great looking engine!


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## Deanofid (Mar 29, 2010)

Cool, Kevin. Two days in a row and good progress, too.
It's really taking shape, now!

Dean


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## ksouers (Mar 29, 2010)

Kevin, thanks for looking in.

Dean. Yeah Thm: Couple more sessions and I should have it done. Maybe before Memorial day. Yeah, right.
Thanks for checking up on me.


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## ksouers (Apr 11, 2010)

The past couple weeks have been hectic, as usual. I only had a couple pieces left to do, so I grabbed time as I had it available to finish them off.

Well, yesterday I got a bad case of get-it-done-itis. All I had left was the flywheel so I slapped it out, drilled a quick hole, tapped it and turned down a brass pin to tighten up against the crankshaft. Did some fiddling and tweaking and now it runs!

And just to prove it can be done, here is a video of it running on an aquarium air pump. The video makes it look like it's running faster than it is. I guess it's running about 150 RPM on about a 1/2 - 1 pound of air pressure. Sorry about the crappy video, it's an old Kodak and video was not a high priority at the time.





I still have some details to finish, like a proper grub screw and a bit of filing and polishing. Plenty of time for that. The main thing is that it runs.

It's been fun. Thanks everyone for the support.


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## Deanofid (Apr 11, 2010)

It runs very well, Kevin. Nice and smooth. Good sound, too.
I figure when my engines run on an aquarium pump, I've done alright. 

I wondered what the heck that was flailing around the crank, 'til I saw your bit about "proper grub screw". 
You did a nice job here. I'd like to see some more pics...

Thanks for the vid!

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 11, 2010)

Congratulations Kevin.

Running on such low pressure is certainly a mark of quality I'd like to achieve some day. I'm making progress though...I'm down to about 90. ;D


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## Maryak (Apr 11, 2010)

Kevin,

Very nice and very smooth, super job. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## ksouers (Apr 11, 2010)

Thanks Dean. I'll try to get some beauty shots a bit later. I was wondering what you were talking about with "Good sound, too". It hardly makes any noise at all. I had to watch it again with the sound turned up and then I heard the clacking sound. Odd, because there is almost no sound at all, certainly not a rattle or clacking. It's so quiet you can hear the hum from the pump. The shop was completely quiet so that sound must be the chuff from the exhaust.


Thanks Zee. 
You do really good work, so stop being so down on yourself. I'll bet you can do it with your engines right now.
The key is to reduce friction. For me, that means a proper break-in period. On this engine when I had finished the cylinder, crank, rods and guide I started running everything using the lathe to turn the crank. The engine probably had 5 hours of running before air even touched it. Oh, and I use lots of crappy oil. I use 3-in-1 for break-in purposes. It does lubricate, but mostly it's to flush out the ultra-fine chips from the break-in. There were also a couple complete tear-downs and thorough cleaning in alcohol.

When assembling, notice that moving parts like to go together a particular way. There is enough slop in screws that an imperceptible twist in a part can cause a great deal of binding. Find the point where there is little or no binding at every opportunity. Even tightening screws in a certain order can affect things. One screw a tenth of a turn too tight can bind things up. On this the crosshead liked to go one way but the other was just slightly harder to crank.

On final assembly, after a complete cleaning, I lube with Mobil 1 straight 20w synthetic oil. Just a touch is all it takes, maybe two or three drops on the whole engine.


Thanks Bob.
Yeah, it's amazing how smoothly it just ticks over. Mesmerizing.


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## Deanofid (Apr 11, 2010)

Kevin, I didn't mean it was a very loud sound. I came across as a little phht phht phht sound with my volume set at a normal level. Watching it again with the volume all the way up it sounds a bit more like a tic tic tic. Laptop speakers aren't great. 
What ever it is, sure runs nice! I'm likin' it.

Dean


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## rake60 (Apr 11, 2010)

Looks Great Kevin! Thm:

Rick


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## ksouers (Apr 11, 2010)

Thanks Rick. I sure wish the video was better, it doesn't do it justice.


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## ksouers (Apr 11, 2010)

As promised here are some beauty shots. "Mr. DeMille, I'm ready for my close up".

It's not really ready for public consumption just yet. There are still some little details that need to be cleaned up. Overall I'm very pleased with the way it runs, especially at slow speed.


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## GailInNM (Apr 11, 2010)

Nice build Kevin. Congratulations.
Gail in NM


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## arnoldb (Apr 12, 2010)

Good going Kevin - very nice little engine :bow:

Regards, Arnold


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## ksouers (Apr 12, 2010)

Thanks Gail.

Arnold, much appreciated.


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## ksouers (Apr 18, 2010)

Well, my wife talked me into getting a video camera. Yes, it was her idea!

So, here is a much better video of the engine running. It's still on an aquarium air pump, I added an inline valve to control the air flow. To get an idea of how small this is I've added a credit card sized gift card to the picture.

I still have a couple little details to attend to, but I'm calling it finished. Time to clean up the shop and move on to the next projects.

By the way, try it in full screen mode.


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 18, 2010)

Wow. It's smaller than I'd thought. Very cool.
Congratulations again.
I hope I can do as well with a piston/cylinder fit.


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## Deanofid (Apr 18, 2010)

Even better the second time around, Kevin. Truly a fine running engine.

I kind of hate to ask a camera question, but I've never seen a full screen vid this good. What kind of videocam did the Mrs. _make_ you buy?
Oh yeah... her idea? What a gal!

Dean


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## ksouers (Apr 18, 2010)

Thanks Zee. Don't fret too much. You do just fine. I've found that worrying about doing something bad very often creates the kind of situation you were trying to avoid. But, just follow your instincts, do what you know is the correct and safe thing to do, then things turn out right.

Thanks Dean. I'm extremely pleased with the way it runs. By the way, I finally got rid of the pan head screw tonight and have a real grub screw. 

I'm really pleased with the camera purchase, I was worried about getting one of the new digital video cams since I know next to nothing about photography. I just don't have the eye for it, the art escapes me. Anyway, the camera is a JVC HD Everio, model GZ-HM200. I got it from Best Buy, it's a refurbished unit so you can only get it online. It's a little tiny thing but does 1080p High Def, though artifacts are visible when it's up on the wide screen.

Yes, the Mrs. is quite practical at times. Especially when it comes to tools. We have an old VHS-C camcorder, but with tape on the way out and a vacation coming up it was not much of a stretch for her to suggest a new video cam. I was the one that balked. I still have the receipt, but I think I'll keep her ;D

Sorry for the crappy pic, but it was hard to get a good shot with all the shiny chrome and black paint.


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## ozzie46 (Apr 18, 2010)

I think you should keep her too, as well as the camera. Receipt or no receipt. ;D ;D


  Ron


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## b.lindsey (Apr 18, 2010)

Kevin, great build thread and a very nice engine. Somehow this one escaped me earlier I am sorry to say....so may builds...so little time. The use of the M&M shows well how tiny it is. Congrats on a fine runner.

Bill


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## ksouers (Apr 18, 2010)

Ron, ;D I heartily agree.

Bill, Thanks for checking in. I agree, there are just too many projects to keep up with. That's not a bad thing! ;D
Too often I have just caught the tail end of some great builds.


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## Swarf Rat (Apr 18, 2010)

WOW!! I think that's impressive!


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## kustomkb (Apr 19, 2010)

Congrats Kevin!

Very smooth indeed. And a super sharp video even in fullscreen like you said.

Nice to see it running off the aqua. pump. Might have to revisit one of mine and see If I can achieve the same.

Nice job!


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## bearcar1 (Apr 19, 2010)

A terrific ending to your project Kevin, a nicely made engine and a smooth runner to boot. That camera sure does a good good job. What is that we can look forward to seeing from you next?

BC1
Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Apr 19, 2010)

Congratulations on a really nice engine Kevin.  :bow: Afraid I'm with Bill on this build - I missed most of the ongoing action but have caught up now. Thanks for taking the time to document a great build.

Cheers,
Phil


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## cfellows (Apr 19, 2010)

Nice build, Kevin. What's next?

Chuck


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## ksouers (Apr 19, 2010)

Bruce, Kevin, Jim, Phil, Chuck: Thank you. It's been fun. Your support is appreciated. 
First up is to clean up the shop a little. There are also a couple tools on the todo list. I haven't settled on an engine build yet. I've been meaning to revisit a Stirling build I started several years ago but never completed. I've also been facinated by the mine engine builds of late.

We'll see.


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## rake60 (Apr 19, 2010)

Great Runner Kevin! :bow:

I love to see the model builds running slow.
It's easy to build a model that will run on flywheel momentum,
(Such as most of my own).

A slow runner shows it's quality.

Rick


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## ksouers (Apr 19, 2010)

Thanks Rick. I like 'em running slow, too. It looks more realistic.

The fastest piston engine we had on the ship was the fantail gypsy head winch that ran about 60 RPM, everything else was down around 30. If I could get one of these little things running that slow I'd be real happy.


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## Philjoe5 (Apr 19, 2010)

Kevin,
I'm with you on the slo mo. I think the mine engine should do 30 rpm easily because of the design. We shall soon see. If you can do 30 rpm on your scale, that would be impressive indeed.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Maryak (Apr 19, 2010)

Kevin,

That is one great video of one great engine. Fantastic resolution by the camera at full screen and the owner at full build. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## ksouers (Apr 20, 2010)

Thanks for the support, Bob. It's greatly appreciated.


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## putputman (Apr 20, 2010)

Great little runner Kevin. Video really turned out good. Was the engine really that quite. I had my volume turned way up and could barely hear it. 

I'm with you on the slow running engines. I think the real quality of the build shows up when they are running slow. That goes for I.C. engines also.


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## ksouers (Apr 20, 2010)

Thanks for the kind comments, Arv.
Yes, it is pretty quiet. I think most of the sound is air slurping past the crosshead, it does leak a bit. The camera was only about a foot or so away and they tend to pick up every little sound. I, at least, tend to hear noises in videos that I don't notice when I'm doing the recording. Not that my hearing is all that great to begin with :


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