# Making the Small Parts



## rake60 (Nov 5, 2008)

I may have started a thread along this line in the past but I'm going to do it again.

What are the smallest parts you've ever made?
My build of the Poppin called for a few, such as the cam roller and it's shoulder bolt.






What was the smallest part you've made?

Rick


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## kvom (Nov 5, 2008)

As a newbie I guess these are small but not very impressive:


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## jack404 (Nov 5, 2008)

The bloke who really got me into model making 
asked me to make him and his friends some small pressure guages

80PSI but they had to fit inside the engine cabin of his tiny steam trains






i owe him for getting me into this but i would not make these again no matter what the price ( well i am open to stupid offers)

this was the toughest thing i have ever had to make i made 22 to get 10 tested and passed as accurate
and heaps of attempts at the spring .. musta made 40 or so to get the 8 he and his friends wanted

i kept 2 for myself for future now a link from tel showed me where i can buy the bloody things  a bit bigger but they woulda done the job..  oh well  live and learn..

cheers jack


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## mklotz (Nov 5, 2008)

This is a functioning oil cup for the main bearings on my miniature metal lathe. The thread is 0-80 and it's drilled through to allow oil to flow to the bearing surfaces.






Oh, and it was made on a 12 x 36 lathe. (I save the Unimat for the little jobs. )


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## rake60 (Nov 5, 2008)

I knew this would prove to be impressive!

What else do we have?

Rick


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## chuck foster (Nov 5, 2008)

these two items were made on a 9" south bend lathe.

first is a stainless steel valve for my small hit and miss engine, the head of the valve is .098" dia and the stem is .032" dia
(the bolt in the pic is a 0-80)






the next item is a brass 00-90 bolt, now i didn't cut the thread on my lathe but i did turn the hex bar stock to size.






as marv said (I save the Unimat for the little jobs. Smiley)

chuck


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## tattoomike68 (Nov 5, 2008)

Wow, any one of those parts would be lost in my messy shop. :big:

I have seen lots of small parts at shops i have worked at. like 80,000 parts filled a 5 gallon bucket half way.

Once I made a bushing .050" long .040" OD with about a .030" bore. Another time I made some tiny tapered pins for an old small clock. Had to make 10 just to find 2 that did not end up in the chip pan. ;D


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## ksouers (Nov 5, 2008)

I think I got chips bigger than those 

I hope some day to do something like that.

Though I did turn down some coat hanger wire on my Sherline just to see if I could.


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## rake60 (Nov 5, 2008)

Believe it or don't, the 4-40 thread on the shoulder bolt for my Poppin engine build was
single point threaded. It didn't need to be. A die would do that quite easily on such a small diameter.

It was single point threaded to prove to myself that I could do that.
Not much drama to it. Two short threading cuts and it was done.
I wouldn't expect anyone to be impressed by that effort, but the feeling you get from 
knowing you did it can never be replaced.

My finished engines could never hold a candle to many of those shown here.
That's OK, I still love to see the masterpiece works.
It's not a competition by any means.

It's about doing your very best, and being happy with your most recent achievement.
We want to see that achievement here!

Now having said all that....
Come on guys, show me some more small parts!

(I suppose that last line would get me beat up in most strip bars... :big

Rick


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## jack404 (Nov 5, 2008)

Dunno if you count these as small or made

i needed to rivet some very fine silver steel sheet together

made these from stainless 1/8th" head 3/32" shaft 5/8th" long rivets

ground the heads flat(ish) cut them to length
then counter bored them with a pair of 1.2mm drills i modded 1 to dril and one to flat drill or drop mill what ever you want to call it






sorry for the shocking pic
cheers

jack


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 5, 2008)

Wow. I was going to go find my smallest piece and post a picture of it... but now it would look very huge next to this stuff.


Eric


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 5, 2008)

Jack,

Can you do a build thread on those pressure gauges? I would be interested in seeing how that was done.

Eric


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## jack404 (Nov 5, 2008)

ERIC

How about i do some drawings for them instead

they just about drove me nuts making them
they truly are a pain in the butt and a great way to go bald tearing your hair out

theres a guy tel put me onto who gets similar made by the 50 lot!! 

wish i knew that a year and a half ago 

but they are not complex

its a tube matched to a delrin C ( heat proof delrin)elliptical ball bearing with a spring and pivot
the spring is the hardest to get right and is tungsten alloy

the pivot leg (brass) sits in the centre of the spring and when the pressure pushed the ball bearing up the tube it pushes the pivot leg up too and moves the scale arm 

once it gets past a certain point the shaft has a cone shape to allow the pressure out past the ball bearing and out the back of the guage ( the requirement was for a pressure release incorporated into the guage at 85 PSI and this was the simplest way i could figure it)

i got wedderburn scales to make the spring for me in the end and i had them make a 6" coil of it and i just cut it to length, and tested it and adjusted the length to match, i have a few inches left if you want some

but again as for making them theres about 10-30 hours work in each one from scratch nothing hard just awful fiddly and easy to bend, cut short, get glue in the wrong place etc

E & J winter sell em for 1/10th what i would charge  i dunno how  chinese folks must live on air

but yeah will dig up the drawings and make them work for uploading

i'll get a couple of machines out and maybe then if i feel i've been very bad i'll make one but only if i feel i've been very bad and need punishing



jack


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 5, 2008)

jack404  said:
			
		

> ERIC
> 
> How about i do some drawings for them instead



That would be great. I would like to tackle that 'just because'. I look forward to it.

Eric


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## Cedge (Nov 5, 2008)

3/16th OD wick oilers with friction fit caps were the smallest, but this one is still my favorite small piece.

Steve


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 5, 2008)

Cedge  said:
			
		

> 3/16th OD wick oilers with friction fit caps were the smallest, but this one is still my favorite small piece.
> 
> Steve



Yeah Steve, that is a nice piece!

Eric


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## dsquire (Nov 6, 2008)

Hi All :bow:

All of these parts are incredible in their own right and certainly much smaller than any that I have made yet. (never say never.) 

I heard Marv and Chuck say that they saved the unimat for the small pieces. I was just curious if they are going to show us some pictures of them?

I just had to say that.

Cheers

Don


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## Stan (Nov 6, 2008)

As the previous posts show, everybody's idea of 'small' is different. As my eyesight declines, my small keeps getting bigger. This part required all of my attention just to do it in aluminum. It is a replacement nut for the stem on my indicator. The outside was simple. The inside had to have a ball shaped top with a 5/16" x 32 TPI thread single pointed right up to the curve of the ball.

On a previous post on hand grinding tools, I showed the threading bit ground out of a 1/4" lathe bit.


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## mklotz (Nov 6, 2008)

dsquire  said:
			
		

> All of these parts are incredible in their own right and certainly much smaller than any that I have made yet. (never say never.)
> 
> I heard Marv and Chuck say that they saved the unimat for the small pieces. I was just curious if they are going to show us some pictures of them?
> 
> ...



Don,

The PMR model of a treadle-operated wood lathe calls for making a spur drive center from a 6/0 taper pin. Carving that shape into the end of a piece of stock 0.080" in diameter suggested that making a test piece first to validate the procedure might be a very good idea.

The picture below shows that test piece. It was done on the Unimat strictly by coordinate milling - I never looked at the part while making the cuts. [Although I must confess that my Unimat is heavily customized with dial indicators on all three axes.]






The final part was made by fitting the taper pin into a matching tapered hole made in a piece of 3/16" square brass and duplicating the procedure worked out with the trial piece. It worked a proper treat. The lathe is out on loan right now so I can't get a picture of the pin but I'll try to get one when it returns.


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## mklotz (Nov 6, 2008)

No discussion of tiny parts would be complete without mentioning a modelmaker in Kansas City who goes by the screen name of rivett608 over on the PM board. Here's just a random sample of his work...

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=140639

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110684

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=97054

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=143518

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=144824

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=112534

If you frequent the PM board, keep an eye out for his posts. They're always worth reading.


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 6, 2008)

Ok Guys I know this is lage compared to some of the others but a neat piece you may have seen it

http://homemodelenginemachinist.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=10004&pos=-31
another part that was cool to make was a replacement thumb wheel retainer for the 6" digital calipers. 
Tin


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## CrewCab (Nov 6, 2008)

Marv ........... that's just ........... (insert lost for words smiley) ........... stunning :bow:

and the wheels in picture #3 .............. 

Thanks for the link 

CC


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## dsquire (Nov 6, 2008)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> Don,
> 
> The PMR model of a treadle-operated wood lathe calls for making a spur drive center from a 6/0 taper pin. Carving that shape into the end of a piece of stock 0.080" in diameter suggested that making a test piece first to validate the procedure might be a very good idea.
> 
> ...



Marv :bow: :bow: :bow:

Thanks for showing this. I knew that you still had some goodies up your sleeve so had to get you to show it. I can well believe machining it by the gauges as I would not be able to see any detail on the part if I could even see the blank. Heck, I had to magnify the picture just to see the beautifully machined spurs on it.

I followed some of the other links that you posted here and they are utterly fantastic. There are not words to properly describe some of what my eyes are seeing on this form and the ones you posted. I also found a few more links that I think every one would appreciate seeing. Just a word of warning, take a good magnifying glass with you.

http://scalemodelhorsedrawnvehicle.co.uk/(Tips%20&%20Ideas).htm#wheels
http://forum.scalemodelhorsedrawnvehicle.co.uk/showthread.php?t=29
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=167167

I am going to go and get my eyes tested tomorrow to see if I saw what I thought I saw or if it was just my imagination.

Cheers

Don


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## Cedge (Nov 6, 2008)

Marv...
I'd love the chance to spend a week or two just observing you as you work. That spur taper is some amazingly small work. Maybe I'll get there one day too.

As for those links.... Damn!!!! just DAMN!!! 

Some people are simply beyond talented. Throw a pinch of obsessiveness and a dash of determination into the mix and you get to see miracles happen.

Steve


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## mklotz (Nov 7, 2008)

It's one thing to make an isolated tiny part but things get much more interesting when all the tiny parts have to fit together to make a tiny structure.

Here are the parts for the lantern style toolholder on the PMR dollhouse scale (1:12) metalworking lathe.






They look a bit rough because of the extreme magnification. Viewed with the naked eye they look quite smooth.

The screw is 0-80. Note especially the rocker (bottom center). I decided to make this by turning a disk to the proper dimensions and then, using a 1/16" endmill, slice off the required part. I had to have some way to capture the rocker when it came free from the parent stock lest it fly into oblivion or drop into the swarf and be lost forever.
I rigged up a small neodymium magnet on a stand to grab the rocker as it broke free. That worked but it took a while to separate the now magnetized part from all the magnetized swarf stuck to the magnet. I performed that job inside a plastic bag to ensure that nothing got lost.

Also note the tool bit (lower left). In a fit of (misplaced) realism, I ground it with the proper relief angles and point to make it a thread cutting tool.  That was a relatively easy job with the miniature grinding table I built for my Dremel.

Here's how all the parts fit together to form the tool post.


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## greenie (Nov 7, 2008)

Cedge  said:
			
		

> As for those links.... Damn!!!! just DAMN!!!
> 
> Some people are simply beyond talented. Throw a pinch of obsessiveness and a dash of determination into the mix and you get to see miracles happen.
> 
> Steve



Nope, you got it ALL wrong, sheer bloody pig-headed is the proper term to be used.

The only reason that I made some of that stuff was that I have 3 daughters and as they got to be teenagers, well, I just had to get out in the shed and get away from ALL the arguments and fighting. If I had had 3 boys, well I could have kicked butt, 3 girls, you just got to cut and run and hide.

Remember " that a man needs his shed ", without it, I possibly would now be in a mental institution.

regards greenie


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## tel (Nov 7, 2008)

greenie  said:
			
		

> Remember " that a man needs his shed ", without it, I possibly would now be in a mental institution.
> 
> regards green



Wouldn't we all


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## Maryak (Nov 7, 2008)

Marv,

What sort of camera is that to get such good close up shots ???

I'm a point it and push the button camera operator : On a scale of 1-10 camera skills -5.

Best Regards
Bob


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## mklotz (Nov 7, 2008)

The camera is an 8 megapixel Canon A630 PowerShot. I don't use a close-up lens but rather back off by about a foot or two from the subject and then use both the optical and electronic zoom to frame the subject.

The pictures you see have been downsized to 800 x 600 using IrfanView (recommended and free). In the full resolution pictures (~2.65 mbyte), you can see scratches in the scratches. 

I've always owned Canon cameras and swear by them. In fact, I'm saving up now to get a Canon SLR.


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## CrewCab (Nov 7, 2008)

Bob, I'd think almost any of the "point and press" camera's would produce a reasonable picture, though if you can use a tripod, even a small desktop mounted one that will help a lot.  Personally I've always liked Fuji in the "point n' press" department and had good results, the Panasonic Lumix and Canon Powershot ranges seem pretty good ............. basically go for something with a short "shutter lag" and a good pedigree any you should be fine. 

I also use a Canon DSLR and for any shot's where you need to freeze movement they are league's apart from point n' press ........... but there's a cost issue too .............. it's like buying a new Mill / Lathe really, it's what suits you 8)

If you think I can help at all just please drop me a message.

atb

CC


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## jack404 (Nov 7, 2008)

cheers all for the camera tips 

Marv, that tool holder is soooooo cool

i had to go dig up a US penny to double check the size


thats crazy nuts small

so it there a lathe that goes with it ??


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## CrewCab (Nov 7, 2008)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> I'm saving up now to get a Canon SLR.



I'm assuming DSLR Marv, imho you will not regret it ............. awesome kit, though 2 years down the line I'm still learning and expect to be for a few years yet 8)

CC


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## mklotz (Nov 7, 2008)

Yes, there is, Jack.

PMR (PM Research) in New York sells casting kits for a whole slew of dollhouse scale machine tools meant to be driven from scale overhead lineshafts. Their engine lathe






is the most complex of these models. You can see the rest of the models at:

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/home.php?cat=6

I've built all of them and can attest to the fact that they're great kits and real attention getters when finished.


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## greenie (Nov 7, 2008)

Marv, reckon you have seen these before, NO store bought kits, just starts with a block of bare metal and he keeps going until the bloody thing actually works.

This fella is truly inspirational.
Check out the 1/14th scale BRIDGEPORT that makes other bits, totally unbelievable. 

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Jordan.htm

regards greenie


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## CrewCab (Nov 7, 2008)

Greenie,

Every time I log on here I find some one or other pushing the envelope further............. and further  ........... and it just happened again ...... 

I'm not even going to try and find more superlatives to describe this work, cos' I will run out soon no matter what ??? .......... it's just (almost) unbelievable :bow:

Thanks for the link  .......... top class 

CC


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## greenie (Nov 7, 2008)

If anybody has a lot of time to kill, then take a stroll thru this site, you will just shake your head, or even give up completely on whatever your doing, the work is absolutely outstanding and every one of these true craftsman deserves to be honored in this way.


http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com


regards greenie


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## mklotz (Nov 8, 2008)

Don't underestimate the model railroading folks. They too can do some incredible miniature work. 

Live steam in 1:240 scale. (HO scale is 1:87, N is 1:160 and Z is 1:220.)

http://www.zen98812.zen.co.uk/steam.html

http://www.zen98812.zen.co.uk/aasherwood.html

http://www.zen98812.zen.co.uk/480scale.html


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## greenie (Nov 9, 2008)

Just been through those links Marv put up.

Now that has to be doing the "ABSOLUTE IMPOSSIBLE", how anybody can accomplish making things in THOSE scales, I just got to shake me head in awe.

The bloke even runs some of these midgets on STEAM, if you aint had a look yet, then you gotta.

regards greenie


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 23, 2008)

This might fit in here

The piston/rod in this steamer is .061 X .175. Thats the smallest thing i have made so far.


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## Kludge (Nov 23, 2008)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> That was a relatively easy job with the miniature grinding table I built for my Dremel.



Could you tell us more about this? My Dremel-clones are looking for additional work.

Best regards,

Kludge


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 23, 2008)

Steve,
I'm interested in the relative sizes of the two engines in your photo...the one sitting on the coin and the one to its right. Thanks, and I am amazed by those who can work on this scale. I unfortunately must go in the other direction, ie, making the big parts ;D

Cheers,
Phil


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## mklotz (Nov 24, 2008)

Kludge  said:
			
		

> Could you tell us more about this? My Dremel-clones are looking for additional work.



I discussed this in an early post:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=414.0

While a hand-held Dremel is a very versatile tool, I find that, in many cases, I can obtain better control and results by turning it into a fixed tool and bringing the work to the tool.


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## Kludge (Nov 24, 2008)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> I discussed this in an early post:
> 
> http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=414.0
> 
> While a hand-held Dremel is a very versatile tool, I find that, in many cases, I can obtain better control and results by turning it into a fixed tool and bringing the work to the tool.



Cool! I saved the thread - thank you! Since mine aren't "real" Dremels, some redesign of the support is indicated which, in turn, means possibly making it hold a handpiece instead. Hmmm ... 

Again, thank you!

Best regards,

Kludge


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## mklotz (Nov 24, 2008)

A rectangular plate with a V-groove and a few judiciously placed hose clamps should work just fine and provide adequate relocation accuracy. It's for sanding and grinding - watchmaker precision isn't required.


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 24, 2008)

Philjoe5  said:
			
		

> Steve,
> I'm interested in the relative sizes of the two engines in your photo...the one sitting on the coin and the one to its right. Thanks, and I am amazed by those who can work on this scale. I unfortunately must go in the other direction, ie, making the big parts ;D
> 
> Cheers,
> Phil



To the right the base is 1.5X1.625, 1 inch flywheel, and a .2485 piston.

The one on the dime the base is .406 X .375, .250 flywheel and a .061 piston.

Plans are in the download area under "Micro HOSC"


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## GailInNM (Dec 4, 2008)

I posted this photo in the Camera Review thread 
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3442.0 
after getting a camera that I could actually photograph it with. It is a small bolt sitting on the back side of a US Penny. 

I made some bolts for a project about 8 years ago when I could still see to make such parts. The bolt is a 0.5 mm (0.020) major diameter and has 0.125mm pitch (203 tpi). The hex head is 0.035 inch across the flats and was broached with a homemade rotary broach in the lathe. The threads were single pointed. At the same time the bolts were made, a form taps were made from 1/16 drill rod. The bolts went into a brass plate 0.015 thick and the tap drill was #78 (0.014 inch diameter). As I recall, that was a little bit small for a form tap, but it cut enough oversize that it worked. 

I will never try this again. Now days I have troubles working with 0-80s.


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## Maryak (Dec 5, 2008)

Gail,

Amazing work 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







, I don't think I would like to work that small even if, like you, I could even see it. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## bigal2749 (Dec 5, 2008)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> No discussion of tiny parts would be complete without mentioning a modelmaker in Kansas City who goes by the screen name of rivett608 over on the PM board. Here's just a random sample of his work...
> 
> http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=140639
> 
> ...



Would I love to see a video of him actually making one of those items

Worked with wood for over 30 years and can't imagine wood working in that scale


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