# my first I.C.: a V10



## jimmybondi (Jan 5, 2011)

Hi,

in Q & A i've published som photos of my actual project
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=11906.0

but its a project in progress and should localized here 

the motor (cylinder) block - made of a block of alu 100 x 100 x 200:

roughing:






(sorry for bad quality of some pictures - i've made them with cellular phone cam)

finished outer shade:






next i've made the oil pan - i don't have a picture of it standalone atm - but here fixed on the block:





(down you'll find a picture of inside ...)

now a tricky job:
the hole for the crankshaft - diameter 42mm - length 194mm
done on my minilathe:





whats next ?

oh yeah - 10 cyl holes:





inside:





(at this moment 5 days are passed since starting this engine)

Frank


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## jimmybondi (Jan 5, 2011)

then i made a few days pause because of christmas and familiy and the holy ****  ...

the last 3 days of 2010 i spent on several parts which need some more attention:

cyl bushes - made of 9SMn28k - called "Automatenstahl"
it has some lead in its alloy - thats not bad for the piston running area 






outer diameter 28mm
inner 24mm

then i pressed them into the block an finished the process on the bore with a "reamer"





also the heads i've machined last days of last year:
not finished at all - but most chips are gone:





small group photo:






take a look into breath ways





and last parts of last year are the pistons - here is one:





more comes next ...


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## jimmybondi (Jan 5, 2011)

2011 started with pston rings - made of cast:











the piston isn't finished here at all - but see later this month (or year  )

now a job that is more the more i build cylinders:
cams - on this machine 20 by number :-(






20 on a rod:





material: C45 - 1.0503
its able to be hardened up to 60HRC - enough for cams i think

and the crank shaft is finished too:





here some parts to explain how its build:





to be continued ...


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## peatoluser (Jan 5, 2011)

Frank,

Thats some impressive maching in a short space of time.

When you line bore the hole for the crankshaft how do you adjust the tool to cut the correct diameter?

yours

Peter


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## jimmybondi (Jan 5, 2011)

returned 

now follows a terrible job:

the bearinghousings for the cam :-(

48 minimized parts - only to carry a small bearing (bearing type HK 0408)






that evening i felt every bone in my hands from deburring :-(

but in my head i stay on the next job - a job i'ld like 

first personalized parts of the engine

crankcases

first a front view at actual build status:







and that noone should have to ask: it's a V10 DOHC:






and noone should have to ask who's the builder  :






now i've to finish the timelapse collage:
thats the actual status

i think i will ask several thinks about I.C. within the next weeks ...

Frank


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## jimmybondi (Jan 5, 2011)

Hi Peter,



			
				peatoluser  said:
			
		

> When you line bore the hole for the crankshaft how do you adjust the tool to cut the correct diameter?



hard to explain - but give a try 
(tomorow i can take a photo)

the bore rod (or how its called) has got a flattening near the hole for the cutter.
On this flat area i fixed a plate with a extra fine thread (M4 x 0,25) to pull out the cutter.
the last 5 machining passes i pull out the cutter 0,1mm - to get a acceptable surface and a hole with close tolerance

Frank


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## peatoluser (Jan 5, 2011)

Hi Frank,

thanks for the quick reply.

I think I understand your method. Did not realise M4 was made with such a fine pitch. ( I'm still stuck in the past using BSW & BA  ) Must give very fine tool control.

Peter


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## jimmybondi (Jan 5, 2011)

peatoluser  said:
			
		

> Did not realise M4 was made with such a fine pitch.



yes - or better: no

fine M4 thread: smalest pitch was 0,35 - but who cares what i'm building ? 
i've made a tap of silversteel to bore a M4x0,25 hole and made a small screw too 

(my bonelle has a thread M48 x 0,5 for the dust covers - never heard before about such a thread  )

Frank


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## T70MkIII (Jan 6, 2011)

Looking great so far, Frank. How long is the bed on your mini lathe?


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## jimmybondi (Jan 6, 2011)

T70MkIII  said:
			
		

> Looking great so far, Frank. How long is the bed on your mini lathe?



between centers 450mm
after some modifications are 550mm possible -but:

than i can't make really chips because its very instable

Frank


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## agmachado (Jan 7, 2011)

Jimmy,

Very cool your project !!!

Good job!

Alexandre


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## jimmybondi (Jan 7, 2011)

Hi

today i finished the crankshaft
and the spring plates for the valves











Frank


PS:
why the pictures are not visible ?
i uploaded them on the gallery and inserted as
[ img ]
http://homemodelenginemachinist.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=132&fullsize=1
[ / img ]

PSS:
found a solution - but terrible laborious :-(


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## Maryak (Jan 7, 2011)

Frank,

I've said it before but a repeat is in order - you do beautiful work. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## agmachado (Jan 9, 2011)

Frank,

We will have news soon? 

Post more news, please... this project is very cool !!!

 th_wwp

Best Wishes,

Alexandre


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## jimmybondi (Jan 9, 2011)

Hi Alexandre,

believe it or not :

there are days where i don't made new parts .-(

today i hardened the cams, made some pre-work for a tube bender
calculated a little bit, arranged some parts like sparks and a carburetor to take dimensions ...
made a piece of CF53 (1.1213) soft to build a tap

ahh - very important:
i made a tool for milling the time wheels !
but while i made them (i made every time 3 tools when i need one !) i thought about another profile (and will use it ...)

here is a lot to do in the peripherie :-(

i will show when there iss a new thing to see.
but from now on there is low output by a lot of work ...

be sure:
it will be continued 

this week i will finish the tube bender - nothing to show here in this thread ...
also tools for sync belts ... (a lot of work and nothing to see .-( )
and a lot of things that i try to do in a way and learn: this way iss wrong :-(

But: it makes me a little bit proud that you (and others) ask for the progress of this project ...
i love this american forum for its participation (their users !!) - its very cool and smooth and ... (words don't come easy 2 me)

Frank

BTW:
here shows the clock half past 2 in the night - you see:
i can only write in the night - when working on my machines is impossible 

(please don't take every word seriously that i wrote down here - i like a little bit humor  )


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## agmachado (Jan 9, 2011)

Frank, 

No problem, I understand absolutely !

Since you continue to share your progress for us... 

I hope to get a lathe and a mill to start building something soon.

I have some drawings of a V12 for the airplane model (see Mr Weitzel in http://www.wawu.eu).

I also like the work of the Germans... the VTH website (http://www.vth.de) is very cool... I would want to understand better your language... However, the Google Translator helps me a bit... better, helps me a lot!

Best Regards,

Alexandre


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## ozzie46 (Jan 10, 2011)

Wonderful project. :bow: :bow:

 Pictures of the tool making would be good too. ;D

 Ron


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## LongRat (Jan 12, 2011)

Frank, this is a fantastic build. Please, post some pictures of your tools - I would like to see the tube bender. Love your built-up crank too. Due you have the book by Schillings?


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## steamer (Jan 12, 2011)

I love that crank......alot

I'm taking some serious notes here


Dave


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## jimmybondi (Jan 14, 2011)

Hi,

the last days i "learned" to machine a wheel for the timing belt
(20 teeth HDT3m - width 16mm for 2 belt of 6mm width)
















and made a flywheel
(a clutch will be added too so far ...)






Yesterday i parsed a comercial carburetor of a .60 engine and made a downsize and made it a little bit smarter
(maybe i will put 1 of them on my engine)






you may compare them here:





the bottle cap of my native beer shows the size of both  
and after this work (measure,sketch,build) i take it as my personal reward 


Frank


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## jimmybondi (Jan 14, 2011)

Hi,

next few parts of the carburetor prototype:
















Greets Frank


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## ttrikalin (Jan 15, 2011)

Ausgezeichnet! 

 :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## jimmybondi (Jan 16, 2011)

Hi,

some news on my last challenge 

i made yesterday and today the timing wheels and taperlock-bushes:

the wheel after milling the teeth:






in foreground 3 wheels in 3 different stage of manufacturing:
left like abvove
right turned a recess for the disk beside the wheel
middle: contour for press-form the disks
(please - if you can name me the right words on it i'll edit it - but:
i don't like to google quad of a hour for every special word ...
i think you understand  )






pressed disks in detail:





2 wheels after turning the surface - one in pressed stadium





result: necessary wheels for my engine 





one wheel i made to test some things like "how stable is the pressed/transformed disk ...
and on this wheel i tested how it would look when finished





that wheel fitted on my engine
looks like "made for it" i think .-)





the taperlock-bushes in very miniature .-)
the 2 screws are M3 x 4
Outer diameter of the bush iss 15mm, bore 4mm





the selfmade tool:






Frank


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## crankshafter (Jan 17, 2011)

Frank.
Only have to say, great work. th_wav woohoo1
One question: You are going to split the tapered boss, eh?

Best.
CS


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## jimmybondi (Jan 17, 2011)

> One question: You are going to split the tapered boss, eh?



of course 
without there isn't any feature 

Frank


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## agmachado (Jan 17, 2011)

Hi Frank,

Absolutly fantastic !!!

Cheers,

Alexandre


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## jimmybondi (Jan 17, 2011)

Hi Alexandre,

thanks for the praise 

today i finished the timing wheels:
turned the profile inside
mill the webs
glue & slotted the bushes







and it looks not bad i think - the relations to the engine







Frank


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## agmachado (Jan 17, 2011)

Frank,

Please, some doubts:

- What is the angle for a V10 engine ? In the V12 can be 60 degrees or 90 degrees in the V8, right?

- What is the positions of the connecting rods bearings in the crankshaft ?

V12:

   O

   X

O     O

V8:

   O

O  X  O

   O

Do you understand me ?

Thanks,

Alexandre


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## jimmybondi (Jan 17, 2011)

Hi Alex,

the crankshaft has an angle of 72° also the angle between the cylinders


        1

    4        5
        O

      3     2


here you see the firing order also
the engine is left rotating,
Cylinders 1 & 6 on the same crankpin, 2&7, 3&8, ...
firing order: 1 - 6 - 5 - 10 - 2 - 7 - 3 - 8 - 4 - 9

Frank


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## agmachado (Jan 17, 2011)

Yes !!! I understand.

Very thank you Frank.

Alexandre


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## jimmybondi (Jan 20, 2011)

Hi,

last days i made some small things and opticals:

mill some roundings
turn the 20 tappets (the patrts between cam and valve)
a lot of work because every part individual made to adjust the clearance for the valve






luck to have a friend who lend me a 1/4-32 tap to made the 
spark plug threads - a look from inside:






(valve dia 11mm)

after finish of this terrible job a probe fit of the heads:






an idea for the carbs:





everything not very difficult but the needles ...

i'll see what i do ...
10 carbs will be a very imposant view and maybe a unforgettable sound when trottle ... 



Frank


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## jimmybondi (Jan 20, 2011)

ahh

i have forgotten s'thing:

what do you think:
is it sufficient to use carbs with a inner diameter of 4.2mm ?
(in the case i use 10 carbs)

i can get 10 carbs with 4.2mm on very low price.
disadvantages:
- not D.I.Y. :-( 
- very small on 10ccm (.65) on every cylinder ...
- not always metal

Frank


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## ttrikalin (Jan 20, 2011)

I have read that a single carb can handle up to 4 cylinders. This is because they draw at practically nonoverlapping times of the cycle. 

If this is correct, 5 rather than 10 would be more than sufficient. 

any thoughts welcome, 

tom in MA


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## gbritnell (Jan 20, 2011)

4.2mm is more than large enough for a .65 bore. I would only suggest that trying to balance 10 of them would be a nightmare. As far a the material, what does it matter? Most engines today have some kind of plastic on them so we can do the same thing.
gbritnell


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## T70MkIII (Jan 21, 2011)

5 scale twin-choke Weber style carbs would look great on that engine, and only 5 to balance ...


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## jimmybondi (Jan 21, 2011)

Hi,

the timing belts arrived today 

first made 3 very small pulleys ...







Frank


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## James A. Lee (Jan 22, 2011)

This one has the look of a Schillings design...wahr oder nicht? Alles ist sehr schoen!!

James


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## jimmybondi (Jan 22, 2011)

Hi James,

yes - the principle design is Schillings.

Frank


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## jimmybondi (Jan 24, 2011)

Hi,

last few days not done a lot
But the small things will take most time :-(











Frank


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## agmachado (Jan 24, 2011)

Yes... Frank !!!

Good news !!! th_wav woohoo1

Take care,

Alexandre


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## LongRat (Jan 25, 2011)

Very neat design on your belt tensioner. The engine is looking great Frank.


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## sunworksco (Jan 25, 2011)

Hey Frank,
Fabulous build! :bow:
How were your valve covers script-engraved?
I need to have some scale model car tires, that are 8.5" diameter, molded and was wondering what would be the best tool to use to put the sidewall script into the aluminum dies?
Should this be done with EDM machine, laser printer or can CNC machining be precise enough? ???
Thanks,
Giovanni


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## mu38&Bg# (Jan 26, 2011)

CNC is capable as long as the machine is designed for it. Most industrial machines will do engraving of that sort, but home made machines could be lacking in accuracy and repeatability to do a nice job. Steve did a piece recently if you missed it. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=9609.msg129149#msg129149

Greg


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## LongRat (Jan 26, 2011)

A decent home build should be able to achieve that pretty easily.
I did plenty of fine engraving on my X2 CNC which was fairly low quality iron. I have now converted my BF30 and that is about ±0.025mm positioning accuracy. Good enough for anything I would want to do. Done quite a bit of super fine work on that, including PCB engraving with 0.3mm cutters.
In fact, in some respects a home machine is better than a full blown VMC for this type of thing. We have some Mazak Nexus machines at work which are very nice, but there is so little memory on board the long G-code files needed will not fit on in one program. Home machines running Mach 3 have pretty much no limit.


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## jimmybondi (Jan 26, 2011)

Hi,

@Giovanni:
i've engraved it on my DIY Gantry.
Most important is a high speed spindle
(my modified spindle can go up to 60.000 rpm)

The acurancy ? i don't know - should be less than 0,05mm

today i made the first try of the intake manifold - but first only the top side:







rough and finish has taken 4h ...

and a distributor was done for test:






diameter 28mm
But when i drilled the holes for the connectors the domes are demolished :-(
there is a little redesign necessary ...

Frank


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## sunworksco (Jan 27, 2011)

I need to make some 1/4 scale Stanley Steamer hubcaps with the script and wondering what would be the best method for the highest resolution? I was thinking after machining the hubcap to have the Stanley Steam Car script laser printed.
Thanks,
Giovanni


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## jimmybondi (Jan 28, 2011)

Hi,

yesterday/today i started the exhaust pipes - an nearly finished:











made of stainless steel - tube are outer dia 10mm, inner dia 9mm
the color of the second picture iss very dark.
The real skin is more linke in the first photo

bended with a self build bender:
(build from rest material whatever i found  )





Frank


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## agmachado (Jan 28, 2011)

Hi Frank,

How are you ?

Very cool this exhaust !

You said it was based on the book Schillings... what has in this book? 

I'm trying to buy this book here in Brazil, but do not exist... I'll try buy from out... I found on Amazon.com website...

So... I do not understand of the germany language (I would like of the understand)... by the Google Translator help I could see that *http://www.vth.de* is a site with a lot of publications and by the photos is very interesting... Do you could talk a bit about it for us ?

Thank you,

Alexandre


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## mu38&Bg# (Jan 28, 2011)

Which grade of stainless are you using? I was just searching for some tubing for exhaust today.


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## nfk (Jan 28, 2011)

Hi,
Your build is extremely interesting!
I`m intrigued about your bender, can you post some detailed pics of it?
I will need one shortly and i`m planning to build one, and yours look simple enough for me that i think i`ll be able to do it without requiring extra skills!

Regards,
Norberto


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## ozzie46 (Jan 28, 2011)

Frank, this is absolutely amazing! Great work. :bow: :bow:


 Ron


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## jimmybondi (Jan 29, 2011)

Hi,

"Danke für die Blumen" 

Alexandre:
i'm not sure if the plans always available at vth.
But i will see what i can email you.
The plans are very incomplete - only a base for own ideas ...

@greg:
i can give you the material number in europe standard: 1.4301
further designations:
X5CrNi18-10
AISI 304
V2A

hope it helps
(the tube has been soft glowed before process)
and i've used precision tubes (very small tolerances and without suture)

@ Norberto:

the bender is very simple:






part 1 is the mandrel.
important:
diameter: maximum gap to inner dia of tube 0,1mm or less
tip: radius is bending radius plus tube inner radius
beginning of radius has fit very close to middle line of bend-role !
i've added a thread at the end of the mandrel to vary the length

part 2 is the role:
outer radius is the bendradius
the groove is half tube outer dia
the tube has to fit very easy into the groove

part 3 is the driver.
it will clamp the tube.
important: when the tube is in position tighten it on the tube.
then tighten i to the role - the tube mustn't forced into any position !
therefore the hole to fit it to the role has nearly 1mm gap

part 4 is the body.
i have added a sleeve of PTFE - no scratches on the tube

hope it helps - again 

the engine:
today i milled the flanges for the pipes.
also stainless steel - 1,5mm thickness
and milling a sheet of this material is something for someone, who has slay mother and father.
indeed - i killed 4 carbide endmills on this part :-(












Frank


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## nfk (Jan 29, 2011)

Frank,
Thanks for the explanation regarding the bender, i will give it a try!
And again, your build is amazing!
You make it look so simple! 

Regards, 
Norberto


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## jimmybondi (Jan 29, 2011)

nfk  said:
			
		

> You make it look so simple!



i think i'm not the laziest - but:
the exhaust takes 3 days for bending - only 3 bends for test - not 3 tubes
(the material was *very* expensive ! nearly 200$ for both sides)

the bender another day
and one day for the flanges (milling and tig-welding)

one day is minimum 8h (and can take also 20h !)

Frank


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## sunworksco (Jan 29, 2011)

I use lots of 316L tubing in this size for my business and it is around $1.00 @ ft.
It bends very nicely, too.
Giovanni


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## agmachado (Jan 30, 2011)

Thank you Frank !


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## jimmybondi (Jan 31, 2011)

one day - one part

not a lot - but a little bit ... 

intake manifold finished:






Frank


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## kustomkb (Jan 31, 2011)

Beautiful! :bow:


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## jimmybondi (Feb 6, 2011)

Hi,

a small update:

starter with "gearbox" (planetary gear - 2 stages 20:1)
(only placed for test if it will fit)





now i have to made thoughts about how to lane the gear at the flywheel ...

and today i started the 5 carbs:






now the engine became more the look for an engine 

Frank

PS:
i hope such high-resolution pictures are not forbidden.
in another forum they like to see details 

PSS: i just see the photos are scaled ...


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## steamer (Feb 9, 2011)

Nice looking "Beast" of an engine......I want to video! :bow: :bow: 

 ;D

Dave


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## agmachado (Feb 9, 2011)

Hi Frank,

Very cool... I do not understand how the intake manifold was made, the ducts...

Do you can post more pictures of the intake manifold ? At different angles...

Thanks,

Alexandre


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## jimmybondi (Feb 10, 2011)

Hi,

@Dave:
a video ?
of what ?
when i machine next parts ?

sorry - but it will take several weeks until the engine makes first turns ... :-(

@alex:

a photo won't give you real insight to the manifold.
But here is a 3-side-sketch:







today i finished the 5 carbs:






and a little bit tricky are the parts for the petrol supply:

screw M2.5 - hex 5 mm
bore 1,5mm





for size comparsion:
the drill has diameter 1mm - the coin is a european 1 cent


Frank


PS: Dave: thanks for the name - i called it "beast" from now on


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## agmachado (Feb 11, 2011)

Hi Frank,

I understand now. Very cool !

Thanks,

Alexandre


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## nfk (Feb 11, 2011)

Looking good Frank!
You`r doing an amazing job!

I`m not sure if someone else asked this question but here it go anyway, what are you planning to do with the engine?
Are you planning to mount it on a model of some sort? or it will be display only?
I would love to see an RC F1 replica using that kind of engine!

Norberto


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## jimmybondi (Feb 11, 2011)

first i thougt to put it in my showcase

BUT:

here is a creature which has to clean my rooms
and stay here the whole time like me
also known as "wife" (*ducking*)

and she is not very done as she heared about the next exponat in our rooms ...
(damned - i should stay as single )

so - i think i will sell it

my passion is not to have it but to build it 

Frank


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## nfk (Feb 11, 2011)

No man!
It`s like selling a child!
You could run a magneto out of it and tell the wife it is sitting there because if any blackout!


This is a short history about myself,
I`m not sure if i`m a collector or what, but i tend to keep anything.
I started a business about 15 years ago, it was a small motorcycle shop and i thought it could be a good idea to buy a few broken bikes, restaurateur (that word exists!?) them and then sell them. 
During 15 years, i bought 10 and keep 7 bikes, all in perfect good shape. 
It is hard to explain to the wife why i have one bike for each day of the week 
I`ve close the shop after 4 years of good business, now i`m a systems administrator...go figure, i can`t keep anything now but bytes...

More progress please!
I want to hear that beast!

Norberto


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## jimmybondi (Feb 12, 2011)

Hrr hrr Noberto

a little bit truth in it - but the show must go on 


now a question:

i'ld like to made a airfilter - like K&N Racing filters:






i've got a sheet of ultrafine wire mesh and will made the covers of polished aluminium.
What can i use as filter ?
a guy has had the idea to use coffee filter ...
any other hint ?

Frank


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## ttrikalin (Feb 12, 2011)

how about buying a shop vac filter and cutting a piece? of a filter for a home A/C and cutting a piece? less than $10 I'd think it'll set you back...


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## jimmybondi (Feb 12, 2011)

tom,

thats a good idea ! thanks

i will give it a try on monday ...

Frank


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 12, 2011)

Hi Frank, That's a Very interesting and complex Engine that your building! You have put a lot of time and hard work into your project. :bow: 

I would do a little research before hastily choosing a filter media for your engine. I'm not any sort of expert, but I do know that there are different grades of filter paper used in filter construction. Perhaps using a standard filter material designed specifically for gasoline engines might be something worth your consideration. An automotive filter will not be more expensive than any other type.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm

-MB


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## steamer (Feb 12, 2011)

Try some open cell foam from the small industrial engines...like lawn mowers ect....that should work just fine.

Dave


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## gbritnell (Feb 12, 2011)

One thing you might consider is not using a filter media at all. The engine won't be run in a dirty environment and if a small piece of the media happens to break off I would think it would do more harm than whatever dust or dirt might get into the engine. I have a lot of hours on my engines and the cylinders look like new. Just a thought.
gbritnell


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## HS93 (Feb 12, 2011)

Hear are some different model car ones some could form the bassis with a nice ally cover.

http://www.sriremotetoys.co.uk/prod...d=479&osCsid=f85d2f6aed304dc39800c1d106570534
http://www.sriremotetoys.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=33&products_id=486
http://cgi.ebay.com/LST-OFNA-AIR-FI...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2e9b970e60
http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/2051_1_1803441.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RC-A...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://www.gomeyer.com/rc-cars-scooters/cars-parts-filters-c-22_67.html


Peter


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## steamer (Feb 13, 2011)

Both of those are great ideas!  

Dave


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## jimmybondi (Feb 13, 2011)

Hi,

thanks for the links ideas and so on ...

the reason to build a air filter is not to filter the air

but it looks a little bit aggressive 

and when i build it it has to do its job 

i give several ideas a try and my choice will depend on best optical resolution 

Frank


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## Florian (Feb 13, 2011)

Hi Frank

I have some rc cars which all of them use a foam filter which has been oiled. 
With these filters, it is even possible to drive in very dusty areas, you only will have to change the filter elements every fith tankful. 
I personally have never been using those model K&N filters but i have heard many people tell that they are not as good as foam filters, first because they let in more dust (but that is not the most important for your Engine) and second they let through much less air than foam filters and so the engine runs not as good as with foam filters. 

This is what seems to be fact for model car engines. But if You use this engine without putting oil on the filter, the amout of air which can get through the filter might be enough.. 

I guess you will have to try what works best... 

@gbritnell: When using the right foam, there is no problem with particles..  (Otherwise my model car engines wouldnt have stayed for a long time... 8) )

Cheers Florian


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## jimmybondi (Feb 21, 2011)

Hi,

last days i've spend to fit small parts and adjust (valve tappets, cam timings, ...)

and today i made the distributors:












Frank


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## agmachado (Feb 21, 2011)

Hi Frank,

Very cool! :bow:

What is missing to make ?

Cheers,

Alexandre


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## metalmad (Feb 22, 2011)

Wow


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## nfk (Feb 22, 2011)

Nice work frank!


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## jimmybondi (Feb 22, 2011)

Alexandre Machado  said:
			
		

> What is missing to make ?



parts inside the distributor (hall sensor / magnets / rotor)
water pump
alternator
fuel pump
clutch
starter 
flywheel gear
new needles for curbs (the first ones don't fit right way)
hmm ...

there is a lot of work :-(

Frank


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## agmachado (Feb 22, 2011)

Yeap... a lot of cool work!!! ;D

What's your idea for the alternator ? Do you think about generate eletricity with it ?

I'm researching about this... for not to depend on an external energy for ignition, do you understand ? Maybe use a battery only to stabilized the tension of the system and of surplus energy can be use to charge this battery. 

What do you think ?

Cheers,

Alexandre


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## jimmybondi (Feb 25, 2011)

Hi,

now i finished the alternator, started the water pump and fit the belt ...







the alternator:






waterpump (without case - but in progress):






parts of water pump:






next days next parts on this screen 

Frank


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## nfk (Feb 25, 2011)

Wow! :bow:
Nice work on those parts!
The alternator look damn good!
Did you took any pictures of the alternator internals? th_wwp
Is it a 'real' alternator or a magneto? 

Norberto


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## jimmybondi (Feb 25, 2011)

Hi,

no - its a BL outrunner

next time i'll made some pictures from inside of the alternator ...

Frank


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## steamer (Feb 25, 2011)

That's looking Damn Sexyyyyyyyyy!

 ;D


Dave


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## jimmybondi (Feb 26, 2011)

Hi,

today i finished the water pump and the fitting for it:
















the alternator from inside:








Frank


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## nfk (Feb 27, 2011)

It`s a beauty! 
Great idea about the alternator, it should develop some real power.
If you`r planning to use it to charge the battery or powering the engine, try to find a stiff regulator, those small outrunners develop quite high power. A small one could send 50v 6A easily at 5000rpm!
PM me if you need a hand with that, i`ve done it before 

Norberto


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## coopertje (Feb 27, 2011)

Frank, amazing! I have the Schillings book, could not imagine how it looks in real live. Looks absolutely great! Love the detail and finishing you put in the engine, and the speed you produce parts is unbelievable.  :bow:  :bow:

Jeroen


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## jimmybondi (Feb 28, 2011)

Hi

today i made the "air-box"
(a hole day for 2 parts - unbelievable ...)






ah - there are 2 more parts i made today:
the small tube clamps 

Frank

[edit]
i've done a little bit more - but nothin' productive :-(
now i hnew the waterpump work at 1000rpm very good in a open circuit
(suck the water at 1000rpm nearly half a meter up ...)
i think it will work ok in a closed circuit at 500rpm)


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## RManley (Feb 28, 2011)

Absolutely Amazing :bow:

words fail me 


R.


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## dbvandy (Mar 4, 2011)

Amazing engine. Can't wait to hear to roar....

A few questions:

Did you design from the ground up or have a master plan that you are following?

And what equipment do you have access to?

Thanks and many kudos to you...

Doug


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## jimmybondi (Mar 6, 2011)

Hi Doug,

i've the schilling book and there a some details of severals engines - but nothing to build one
without design it by own
given hints are build of crankshaft, cams & -shaft, bearings, ...

all the rest like alternator, waterpump, arangement of it, belt and timing wheels and the exhaust is own designed

my most important machines are a ZX7045 mill (travel 22" x 10" x 20") and a small lathe (knuth Universal 450 - 10" x 22") - all rebuild to cnc.
There are a lot of other tools like a bonelle TC-Grinder, a cnc gantry mill (selfbuild 35" x 30" x 18" with hf spindle), saw, severals welders (TIG MIG MMA acetylene) and a set of good files - man work is necessary at all despite cnc 

Frank


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## jimmybondi (Mar 6, 2011)

Hi,

me again 

yesterday there was a small meeting of some cnc-freaks in nothern germany and in the sunlight the engine looks a little bit better than in the homeshop ...

today he sent me a sall picture and i will get more next days 






Frank


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## agmachado (Mar 27, 2011)

Hi Frank,

How are you ?

The general look is great!!!

When do you plan to spread news of the project?

Best Regards,

Alexandre


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