# DIY Tool Maker's Chest



## gus

My 6 year old Fishing Tackle Box cum Poor Man's ToolMaker Chest life was cut short by excessive vibration while manually activating the ''Hitting & Missing'' mechanism of the Rupnow H&M I.C.Engine. Was about to put on Governor to auto operate the H&M.Perhaps Gus did put on too much rpm.

Tried to buy another Tackle Box to no avail. It is out of fashion.
Was toying with the idea of DIY my very ownToolMaker's Chest. So this is timely.

Sketch done to get B.O.M. aka bill of material for cut to size plywood.
Gus's carpentry skills not world best. However to try producing a ''lookable/passable'' but functional ToolMaker's Chest with ''Formica''.

Meanwhile please look at my dead tool box.Condolence is welcomed.


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## Swifty

Gus, you must have been putting a lot of revs into that engine to break your toolbox. Look on the bright side, you can put your skills to use building a new tool chest.

Paul.


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## gus

Went shopping for custom size cut 16mm plywood.
Supposed to make a Traditional ToolMaker's Chest but will end up with a plywood version of the Steel Tool Cabinet.
Will buy cut to size material for drawers tomorrow. The sub-divison pockets will be tough to make and please. 
The top tray will have sub-divisions for punches,taps, dies ,dividers,spotting drills etc. for easy retrieve.
Frame was done in an hour with cordless drill and screwdriver.


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## Nerdz

Looking Forward to seeing this as its built, I could use one of these but cant bring myself to buy one.


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## gus

Nerdz said:


> Looking Forward to seeing this as its built, I could use one of these but cant bring myself to buy one.




Hi Chris,

Are you a Solar Panel Enthusiat?
Planning to put one panel on my 28 ' Albin just charge batteries. How good or bad are the MIC panels.MIC aka Made In China. 

Latest. Got the frame done and now sizing up drawers.


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## cobweb81

Gus I am so sorry for your loss. It is always hard to have to let go of such a tired old friend.


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## Nerdz

gus said:


> Hi Chris,
> 
> Are you a Solar Panel Enthusiat?
> Planning to put one panel on my 28 ' Albin just charge batteries. How good or bad are the MIC panels.MIC aka Made In China.
> 
> Latest. Got the frame done and now sizing up drawers.



Yes I am actually. I cant speak on quality of those to be honest, I make my own (but i havent done anything with them sadly) In order to hook up to a house they need to pass UL/CL specs and a bunch of other regulations. But for "emergency" back up they would be quite fine (ie Charging a battery in your case). Ive been meaning to use them to light up the yard at night..

I buy the cells off of ebay. You can pick a 100W Panel up for about $130. 36 Cells cost around 40-50 bucks. OSB or Plywood should cost another $20. They are also very delicate (Think thinner than paper!)


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## portlandron

If it would work you could use the plastic trays from your old box for dividers in the drawer of your new box.   Maybe cut the plastic down to fit the new drawers or put one or two dividers in the new drawers to hold the plastic trays.


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## Wagon173

Glad to hear you're still adapting and overcoming your shop problems, Gus.  My absence from the forum has been due to a spark with an old love by the name of wood working.  I say do what you can with the wood.  I took about a ten year hiatus from wood working just because metal interests me more.  However, during the last few months I've began a new romance with it.  Not that I have more fun with wood than I do with metal, but 1: I seem to be more naturally adept at manipulating wood (or maybe it's just more forgiving)  and 2: I've noticed that I don't have to line my wood tool chests with crazy synthetic layers that may or may not be resistant to petroleum products.  Likewise, I'm beginning to realize the benefits of being able to make a wood tool chest much cheaper and effective than metal for my machining tools, and repairing or fabricating wood tools in the metal shop is just sooooooo much cheaper than buying them.  I built a 200 dollar kreg jig kit not too long ago for about 40 bucks.  Really the bit cost me 15 so yea, a 175 dollar discount and a free lesson in building kreg jigs (in all honesty I probably had about a 30 dollar "woops" account) for the price of a curious personality.  Not that here is a contrast.  There hasn't been a whole lot to come out of my wood shop (minus the chest) that can be used in the metal shop.  But I've used my machine tools to sharpen all of my wood tools, and to achieve superior accuracy than most wood workers and also I think it's much easier bridging the gap from metal to wood than it is the other way around.  Good on ya, Gus!  I'm glad you're still giving them hell.  I don't do a whole lot of posts at the wood forum and they're not too great, but if any of y'all do wood working too, I'm on lumberjocks with the same sn.  
'


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## Swifty

I've also done my share of woodwork, but my biggest problem was that I applied metal work fits to my wood projects. It led to a lot of tight fits on things like drawers, too tight to work.

Paul.


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## gus

portlandron said:


> If it would work you could use the plastic trays from your old box for dividers in the drawer of your new box.   Maybe cut the plastic down to fit the new drawers or put one or two dividers in the new drawers to hold the plastic trays.



Good idea. For now will use the existing trays, Will look for the plastic boxes used to hole Deep/med  Sea Bottom Jigs.Have seen my fishy mates' big fishing tackle trays.


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## gus

OK .Guys .Here comes the over kill. It seems to be a must for a modern carpenter to have---------cordless drill,cordless screw driver and air nailer. :hDe:Hammer and square are manual.With same nailer,I have a hand to hold job.Nailing is lightning speed. ''Pow" That's one nail done . Pow pow pow pow. However some minimum skills required. And personal safety to ensure one doesn't get nailed.:wall:Bought the M.I.C. Air Nailer for A$32.
Two drawers done,one mounted and fitted in. Still a lot of work left.


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## barnesrickw

I drove an 18ga bar as nail in my thumb once.  Really hurt when it hit the bone on the tip.  The nail bent as I was joining a couple pieces of oak.  So I keep my hands a little farther from the nailer now.  


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## barnesrickw

Brad nail, not bar.  


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## Swifty

Looking great Gus, are you going to fasten on a false front to the drawers to cover the runners and gaps? This would help keep the dust out and give it a nice finished look.

Paul.


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## Tin Falcon

Gus : Looking forward to your build. 
I have pondered dreamed of building my own tool chest. may still some day. 
I Have some WW tools my son found me a table saw at a yard sale picked up a router at a yard sale. I have a couple really good WW supply stores not too far away. I have an old oak dresser that could be re purposed. 

Call me lazy if you will or practical but Tin Man drove about ten miles to the local harbor freight store, Home shop machinist magazine in hand with coupons and for $60.00  USD and a couple bucks more for the Governor I came home with on of these. 





The sad part is i priced the suggested materials for a lowes design tool box and it came to about $ 120.

The HF box is not a Gershner and if one likes to or needs to leave the till open you will need to add a folding  lid brace or a pair. Also the drawer bottoms are flimsy Chinese Masonite type material. I am pondering making new drawer bottoms from aluminum sheet and have much stronger drawer bottoms. 
That said This is my second HF box I have had the first one IIRC about a year with no issues. 
Review of the HFT Windsor Tool Chest here. 

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f13/hft-windsor-design-tool-box-17414/
Tin


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## Draw-Tech

Swifty said:


> I've also done my share of woodwork, but my biggest problem was that I applied metal work fits to my wood projects. It led to a lot of tight fits on things like drawers, too tight to work.
> 
> Paul.



It love woodworking and like Swifty I sometimes make things tight. Here's an example of a jewelry box I made for my wife.

Jack
Draw-Tech:wall:


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## Tin Falcon

A castle to hold the family jewelry. 
Tin


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## goldstar31

Mine are dental students instrument boxes. Part of my wife,s dowry!

Regards

Norman


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## gus

Swifty said:


> Looking great Gus, are you going to fasten on a false front to the drawers to cover the runners and gaps? This would help keep the dust out and give it a nice finished look.
> 
> Paul.



Plan to cover up the drawers with false fronts/Put on a lid on the top to keep
dust away.
Put in sub-divisions slots to hold taps,punches, etc.
The M.I.C. Plywood quality has improved. 
By latest Tuesday morning before leaving for a three day deeps fishing, will have drawers done with fronts. Plan to turn the Aluminium knobs.
Bought the "American Walnut"stained lacquer. Will be fun.

Hope Gus not starting another infectious campaign--------Make your own DIY "Poor Man's ToolMaker Tool Box which will last forever. Cost A$30.00.
Expensive Labour not included.


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## gus

Tin Falcon said:


> Gus : Looking forward to your build.
> I have pondered dreamed of building my own tool chest. may still some day.
> I Have some WW tools my son found me a table saw at a yard sale picked up a router at a yard sale. I have a couple really good WW supply stores not too far away. I have an old oak dresser that could be re purposed.
> 
> Call me lazy if you will or practical but Tin Man drove about ten miles to the local harbor freight store, Home shop machinist magazine in hand with coupons and for $60.00  USD and a couple bucks more for the Governor I came home with on of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The sad part is i priced the suggested materials for a lowes design tool box and it came to about $ 120.
> 
> The HF box is not a Gershner and if one likes to or needs to leave the till open you will need to add a folding  lid brace or a pair. Also the drawer bottoms are flimsy Chinese Masonite type material. I am pondering making new drawer bottoms from aluminum sheet and have much stronger drawer bottoms.
> That said This is my second HF box I have had the first one IIRC about a year with no issues.
> Review of the HFT Windsor Tool Chest h:rant:ere.
> 
> http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f13/hft-windsor-design-tool-box-17414/
> Tin




Wanted to buy one of this but they won't ship to Singapore!!!!:wall:
Planned to make one some months' ago but my DIY ToolMaker's Chest will be a poor clone.:hDe:

My darling boss now wants a drawer in the kitchen cabinet to hold can food.


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## gus

portlandron said:


> If it would work you could use the plastic trays from your old box for dividers in the drawer of your new box.   Maybe cut the plastic down to fit the new drawers or put one or two dividers in the new drawers to hold the plastic trays.



Took your advice and fit in the existing plastic tray. 
I have lotsa junk to scrap.:hDe: Tray now has less scrap.
Honestly. Its true I made the ToolMaker's Chest wee bitty bigger and the trays fit in. Time and labour saved. 

The third drawer will hold bulky items.
Note: The brass corner trims bought from TokyuHands adds up to aesthetics. Bought the brass corner trims in Japan with DIY Toolmaker's Chest in mind months ago.


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## Swifty

Looking great Gus. Good idea using the old trays as drawer inserts.

Paul.


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## gus

False fronts for drawers done. Top cover-lid done. Some fine tuning required. After the fine tuning done .Will turn the Aluminium Knobs.
For decorative purpose the Brass Corner Trim adds up.
8---10 April Gone Deep Sea Fishing. Looks like completion will be next week.


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## Swifty

Looking good Gus, it's amazing what you can do with a few hand tools. How thick is the ply that you are using?

Paul.


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## gus

Swifty said:


> Looking good Gus, it's amazing what you can do with a few hand tools. How thick is the ply that you are using?
> 
> Paul.



Almost entirely 5/8 plywood except the lip with 3/4 ply to close up on top to keep out dust. There is tendency for thinner plywood to warp especially thinner M.I.C. plywood.
Bought and used American Walnut Stained Lacquer. Top Lid lacquered to prevent stains from my greasy hands.Will do same for sides and drawers.
For now ,no plans to put in too good lacquer finishing. Aerosol Lacquer is so handy to use but no cheap.Will need another two more cans.

No big deal or super skills to assembled chest out custom cut to size plywood members.But when putting together the drawers,you must provide clearance to fit slides into the chest.

My ToolMaker's Chest will look great at a far distance. But when "macro-ed" some flaws will show up. However as long as the chest and drawers hold up when filled with hand tools and drawers slide out smoothly,Gus will be happy.


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## johnmcc69

That's a nice looking chest Gus. Great work! Good luck on your fishing trip.
the trout season is finally picking up here, the ice has FINALLY melted!

 John


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## ShopShoe

Gus,

I think I see a wooden plane in your photos (Block Plane?) Are those more popular in your part of the world? In North America the norm is metal with screw adjustments, except for some very expensive wooden planes sold by specialist vendors. There are also genuine antiques. I've never used a wooden plane, but have seen comments about how well they work when the cutter is sharp.

Thanks, and sorry for the OT.

--ShopShoe


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## gus

ShopShoe said:


> Gus,
> 
> I think I see a wooden plane in your photos (Block Plane?) Are those more popular in your part of the world? In North America the norm is metal with screw adjustments, except for some very expensive wooden planes sold by specialist vendors. There are also genuine antiques. I've never used a wooden plane, but have seen comments about how well they work when the cutter is sharp.
> 
> Thanks, and sorry for the OT.
> 
> --ShopShoe



Here in Asia,most carpenters use Chinese Planers which come with cross handle bar while the Japanese Planers have none.It is hard to buy Chinese Planers as most carpenters make their own.Most carpenters go thru five year apprenticeship and on completion,their meister will present them a set of DIY Custom made planers which will last a lifetime.

I bought some Chinese Planers and found them to be poorly made.
Carpenter friend gave me two of his late father's long planers. 

 Came across Japanese Planers at TokyuHands,Tokyo.Bought one for fun and found it very sharp,easy to use and cuts like crazy but took me sometime to get used to them. Same planers cost me a bomb. I bought longer planer too.
Will also buy the even longer planer for levelling.
Jack Planers are designed for push cutting while Japanese are pull cutting.
For small jobs Japanese planers are best.

The bottom drawer of my DIY Tool Chest will store Japanese Planers,Japanese Chisels etc. Found Japanese Chisels very quality good.
The M.I.C. Chisels are poorly hardened/over-tempered while the Japanese Chisels stay sharp.

I also sharpen planer blades,wood chisels,kitchen knives with Japanese WaterStones to razor sharpness. Was watching Japanese Knife Sharpeners at work outside the Tsujiki Fish Market sharpeninng Sashimi Knives. Bought a set of four water stones from 400 grit to 10,000 grit. Cost me a bomb.
Besides the stones,you also need another to maintain/flat level same. A badly maintained stone is impossible to sharper wood planer blades.


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## ShopShoe

Gus,

Thank you for the information. Just as I like all engines and all things made by craftspeople of all kinds, I appreciate good tools and the mental attitude that goes with making them and using them.

If I ever get the chance to travel to Japan, it looks like TokyuHands is a stop I have to make, even if just to look.

--ShopShoe


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## gus

ShopShoe said:


> Gus,
> 
> Thank you for the information. Just as I like all engines and all things made by craftspeople of all kinds, I appreciate good tools and the mental attitude that goes with making them and using them.
> 
> If I ever get the chance to travel to Japan, it looks like TokyuHands is a stop I have to make, even if just to look.
> 
> --ShopShoe



Hi ShopShoe,
If you plan going to TokyuHands,Gus will be glad to give you directions.
Best to go to Shinjuku Outlet which has 7 floors.  Wood/metal/leather/glass working is on 6 floor.  Will give you the directions. At most train stations,the station masters speak English.Train stations have signboards in English. 
If ever you got lost ,walk to the nearest Koban(police kiosk) or policeman and ask for directions. One must speeeaaak sslowwwly. Aussie accented English can be tough on a Jap Policeman.


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## gus

OK. ToolMaker's Chest done and only essential tools put in .Will try very hard to keep tidy w/o cluttering with tools that I really don't need.Files,hammers,spanners etc will be stored elsewhere.
Used American Walnut Lacquer to coat tool chest. Must admit Gus certainly not world best carpenter. Will leave lacquer coating as is. My lacquer work is certainly not professional.Lacquer coating was meant to prevent staining by my greasy/grimy hands and easier to clean up later.Had thought filling,staining,and lacquer hand rubbing. 
But tool box as designed/made is user friendly and easier to access tools.
Built cost less labour is about US$40.00.


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## Swifty

Another job to be proud of Gus.Thm:

Paul.


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## ShopShoe

That turned out really well,

--ShopShoe


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## gus

cobweb81 said:


> Gus I am so sorry for your loss. It is always hard to have to let go of such a tired old friend.




Hi Cobweb,
The least I could do to remember an old friend was to transfer/transplant the usable trays.(Truth was this was the best option and would save time and labour. )
Been enjoying myself throwing away unnecessary items/junk collected over last
6 years.Meanwhile I have another old friend to discard.Will post.


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## besser

Just have to find the ply and flock and I have a path to follow


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## gus

My mini Storage Bin for fasteners has decided to quit on me. Never use solvent to flush engines to near Bin,the mini plastic drawers will gum and get stuck forever. All the bottom drawers and some mid too were stuck.
Never do heating too near the plastic bins.
Time to do overdued housekeeping on same bin. Took three hours to tranfer to new Storage Bin with lotsa fossilised items to discard.

Work bench cleaned up. 

Next on the list would be to DIY a plywood version of Multi-Drawer Steel Tool Cabinet to place Storage Bin on top and next to the work bench to give ample working space for bigger engines and jobs.Same Cabinet would cost Gus
US$150 for flimsy M.I.C.version and US$250 for last forever Taiwanese Version.

The 4 inch bench vise must be relocated to extreme right of work bench to give more elbow room. Also planning for
holding device to hold wood for planing. This means a carpenter's wood vice which would be fun to DIY.


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## barnesrickw

Really like the chest.  Will last you years. 


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## gus

Spent too much time lacquering the top lid. Would a waste of labour if damaged.There are two causes to undo and damage the coating.My grimy hands and the wall. Lifting device which took quite a few days to mentally design. Item must balance the DIY Alum. Knobs. Lift latch took half morning to cut/mill/drill/sand and screwed on.

DIY ToolMaker's Chest completed 17th April 2014. 
On my list would be a plywood version of the full height sheet metal tool cabinet for bigger items.

Thanks for viewing,support and expert advice.


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## bmac2

gus said:


> My mini Storage Bin for fasteners has decided to quit on me. Never use solvent to flush engines to near Bin,the mini plastic drawers will gum and get stuck forever. All the bottom drawers and some mid too were stuck.
> Never do heating too near the plastic bins.


 
Hi Gus. Nice work on the tool chest. 
I feel your pain with your mini Storage Bins. A few years ago I had a similar accident using spray flux remover. At the time we would have a Crash Kit containing all the components for each of the circuit boards that we repaired in any volume. These kits where labeled plastic drawers (before someone asks, yes. anti-static) in a plastic carrier. It didnt take much _stray spray_ to effectively weld all the drawers permanently closed. Shortly after that, and reading the WHMIS sheet on the flux remover we switched to using isopropyl alcohol.
FYI. Sunny Alberta. April 16. -3 and snowing!


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## Brian Rupnow

The chest looks good Gus.---Brian


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## gus

Brian Rupnow said:


> The chest looks good Gus.---Brian


 

Thanks.

This coming Monday 21st,the Hitting & Missing gets going.Work bench housekeeping done. Fastener storage bin done. A cluttered workbench/ruined fishy tackle box/tool box kind of stressed me to burnt-out.

Hopefully before I leave on 23rd April for Thailand,H&M done. Your engine enthralls me. 

Took the boat to nearby Indonesian Island of Batam for seafood and pick some goos eating fish. Sea was mirror flat though not so flat o n the way back.

Trust all is fine at your end.


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## Brian Rupnow

All is well here Gus. Most of the snow is gone. About 3 more sunny warm days should get rid of the remaining snow. I had a first today. I seen a possum in my yard. A possum is an animal that is not native to Canada, but they are gradually working there way north from central United States. They are a marsupial, about the size of a house cat. My wife had seen it earlier in the winter, and I was hoping I would get to see it. I have seen all of the other Canadian wild animals in their natural habitat except for a Lynx, which is a small nocturnal wildcat, a mountain lion, and a Polar bear.


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## Swifty

Hi Brian, we have 2 common types of possums over here, the larger bushy tailed, and the smaller ring tailed. The larger ones are a real pest, the smaller ones sure look cute but can be a pest as well. For people living in a treed area, the possums will get into any small opening in your roof space and make themselves at home, they sound like they wear hob nailed boots when they are in the ceiling. I've been in people's houses where you will swear that there is someone out side the window breathing heavily, but it's only the bushy tailed possums. They have a habit of destroying trees, so often the local councils encircle the trunk with stiff plastic so the possums can't climb them, I often see the smaller ones walking along the overhead power lines.

We actually exported the larger possums to New Zealand where they have become the number one pest, they settled right into the beech forests over there and are a real problem to the vegetation. Some people over there work as possum hunters using small traps, the fur is used for scarves, or spun into yarn to make clothes.

Paul.


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## AnvilJack

I hate wood: too dirty, flimsy, shifts and changes after the job is done, dusty stuff ...

Much prefer the nice clean smoke and melt and grind experience,the brown chips, and the "it'll never split" of steel.

How did the drawers finish up, Gus?


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## gus

AnvilJack said:


> I hate wood: too dirty, flimsy, shifts and changes after the job is done, dusty stuff ...
> 
> Much prefer the nice clean smoke and melt and grind experience,the brown chips, and the "it'll never split" of steel.
> 
> How did the drawers finish up, Gus?



Hi AnvilJack.
Took a bit more work to trim,sand and shim the false fronts so as to align same. Took some shots at night. Lesson. Never buy furniture at night as some some flaws can be undetected.See fotos take at night.


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## Philjoe5

Excellent work Gus.   You seem to do all right with "the brown stuff".  Very professional

Cheers,
Phil


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## gus

Philjoe5 said:


> Excellent work Gus.   You seem to do all right with "the brown stuff".  Very professional
> 
> Cheers,
> Phil




Bought 4 Aerosol Cans of American Walnut Lacquer.The results turned out darker than the color chart on can. Gus certainly not world best lacquer painter.
Made a big mess of tear drops/runs etc. Had to sand down and respray.
This is my very first attempt of spray a large area. 
Plan to make a Tool Cabinet in the short future. Carpentry jobs are quite forgiving. This time will use "formica." but i can get very messy with Glue.:rant::wall:


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## DanP

I've done my share of wood work, my biggest problem is I apply wood work fits to my metal work projects.   If you can find some scrap DIBOND/E-panel it would work great for dividers, drawer bottoms and the like, strong, easy to work with and light weight.  Total 3mm thick, .012 aluminum over polypropylene then .012 aluminum.   A sign shop would be a good place to find scrap.  http://graphicdisplayusa.com/en/products/dibond/dibond/


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## gus

DanP said:


> I've done my share of wood work, my biggest problem is I apply wood work fits to my metal work projects.   If you can find some scrap DIBOND/E-panel it would work great for dividers, drawer bottoms and the like, strong, easy to work with and light weight.  Total 3mm thick, .012 aluminum over polypropylene then .012 aluminum.   A sign shop would be a good place to find scrap.  http://graphicdisplayusa.com/en/products/dibond/dibond/




Good idea will look around for this product. My friend's fishing tackle shop was done up with same. The ''Dibond" DIY Tool Cabinet will look great to contrast with the ToolMaker's Chest.


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## nel2lar

Gus
I love what you did with a little wood. I was wondering to start with and I figured I would continue to watch. You have done a very good job on the box and take pride in it because you did not need bondo to make it look good. Some say that wood has no place in there working, but I tell you all that wood just like metal can be very satisfying. Carpenters work within a quarter of an inch, Cabinet makers work within a thirtsecondth, and a Machinist works with in thousandth. 
The nicest thing about a wood box is it can get cold and humid and you will not find RUST. Gus, very nice.
Nelson Collar


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## Moontan

I saw a similar toolbox at a local engineering tool supply company just last week, it was stunning, made of English Oak with hand cut dovetailed joints, even the bases of the drawers were ply wood, made of oak, solid brass furniture and not a nail, tack, staple or brad in it anywhere.

Drawer runners were wrapped in annealed copper plate to minimise wear!

Drawers inserts could be tailored and shape moulded for your own precision measuring and marking out tools and lined with oiled kid skin. 

This was a real work of art made by skilled trades men.

And the price reflected it, $2500AU, and that was without the moulded inserts option but still oil skin lined.

Il try and grab a picky of one.

I really like yours though.


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## goldstar31

Congratulations, Gus. One tip about spraying especially from spray cans is heat. We live in a fairly cold climate where the winter snows that came in mid November are still ringing the headwalls of hills and mountains. My neighbour at 75 is still getting a geriatric run or two in.
 We've given up now- but I digress. I always put the spray gun or the aerosol into a bucket of fairly hot water at - each rest.

 I spent a bit of time messing about with resins and plastics and paints in my youth( ????) and we used to do tests for paint/plastic viscosities with things like Ford cups and PRS viscometers which are really test tubes with oils that allowed a bubble to rise in a given time at a controlled temperature in a water bath- at a controlled temperature. Frankly, you'd be amazed at how little temperature change to affect the flow of a liquid- and the work. 

 So I'm watching carefully the temperature before I repair a scratched front wing/fender on the  Audi A4 Avant. Silver then clear over base.

 Enjoy the fishing, eh?

 Norman


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## AnvilJack

Yeah, nice cabinet.  Even with night time photos.  Well done.


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## gus

goldstar31 said:


> Congratulations, Gus. One tip about spraying especially from spray cans is heat. We live in a fairly cold climate where the winter snows that came in mid November are still ringing the headwalls of hills and mountains. My neighbour at 75 is still getting a geriatric run or two in.
> We've given up now- but I digress. I always put the spray gun or the aerosol into a bucket of fairly hot water at - each rest.
> 
> I spent a bit of time messing about with resins and plastics and paints in my youth( ????) and we used to do tests for paint/plastic viscosities with things like Ford cups and PRS viscometers which are really test tubes with oils that allowed a bubble to rise in a given time at a controlled temperature in a water bath- at a controlled temperature. Frankly, you'd be amazed at how little temperature change to affect the flow of a liquid- and the work.
> 
> So I'm watching carefully the temperature before I repair a scratched front wing/fender on the  Audi A4 Avant. Silver then clear over base.
> 
> Enjoy the fishing, eh?
> 
> Norman



Hi Norman,

The inland sea water went brownish due to wee bitty rain water when mixed with sea water and three days of hot sun turned on red tide. Despite this we caught the minimum by trying more spots. Looking forward to the forecasted dry spell which means pristine sea water and fish plenty. For now my fridge is packed full and darling boss is happy eating fresh fish.

Lacquering.
The hot weather here helps but high humidty can kill a lacquer job. No worry.
Can always fine sand paper sand down and wait for a hot afternoon to respray. Thought of hand rubbing the old fashion way but then why have so super a coat for a humble tool box.

Spring is on now at your end. Have a good time.Take care.

Did not realise I got so much attention and support. Thanks for the support.


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## gus

nel2lar said:


> Gus
> I love what you did with a little wood. I was wondering to start with and I figured I would continue to watch. You have done a very good job on the box and take pride in it because you did not need bondo to make it look good. Some say that wood has no place in there working, but I tell you all that wood just like metal can be very satisfying. Carpenters work within a quarter of an inch, Cabinet makers work within a thirtsecondth, and a Machinist works with in thousandth.
> The nicest thing about a wood box is it can get cold and humid and you will not find RUST. Gus, very nice.
> Nelson Collar



Hi Nelson,

Thanks for the kind appreciation.
As I said,carpentry nowadays calls for plywood cut to size from supplier, cordless drill,cordless screw driver,carpenter's square,sandpaper and minimum skill to put together and the will power to finishing job to your own satisfaction.
Plan to move ToolMaker's chest in the short future on to a DIY Tool Cabinet to unclutter work bench. Sketches done with a wee bitty industrial spying at Snap-On tool cabinets. The finished tool cabinet will not look like ''Snap-On''.
Would love to buy a Snap-On or Proto but my budget forbids. 

Plan to improve staining and Lacquering.Now in Southern Thailand.


----------



## barnesrickw

I've built a lot if woodworking projects with hand tools and traditional joinery.  I'm thinking the Kreg Jig will be good enough for my own stuff now.  


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines


----------



## gus

Other than the $$$$$$ saved ,making your very own DIY ToolMaker's Chest and Tool Cabinet,we enjoy every minute opening and closing same when retrieving/returning tools. The efforts put in for the super duper lacquer finish make us treasure and protect same from scratches.

Drafting sketches to make DIY Multi-drawer tool cabinet shortly from now. My work ares is a bit cluttered and Tool Cabinet will enhance housekeeping.


----------



## Swifty

Hi Gus, I made my own toolbox in 1970 when I was a first year apprentice. I used it all my working life and it still sits on my bench at home. 



It's a bit knocked about now but has served me well. Enjoy using yours.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Swifty said:


> Hi Gus, I made my own toolbox in 1970 when I was a first year apprentice. I used it all my working life and it still sits on my bench at home.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a bit knocked about now but has served me well. Enjoy using yours.
> 
> Paul.




Its incredible and it survived 45 years. As I said, one would treat/handle/use his ToolMaker's Chest with great care. The Lacquering looks good.
Somehow Paul&Gus shares common interest. Now waiting for the next windfall and "OZZ'' here I come to visit Paul.Been overspending and now putting on extreme budgetting.


----------



## Swifty

Gus, I never thought about how old it was, over 44 years, when does it become an antique? I sanded it down once years ago and re lacquared it, the dark spots on it are small dents through wear and tear. I used sheet metal for the drawer slides, my father had a home made table saw that I used to cut the ply sheets for the main part of the toolbox. The drawers are made of hardwood with ply bottoms, and have dividers in them. A lot of the tools in it I have had from the start, only ever bought one engineers hammer, although I replaced the handle once. I will pass it on to one of my sons when I have finished with it.

I'm looking forward to the day that you come over here, I'm sure that we will get on extremely well, we have similar interests, small model engines and fishing.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Doing my best to protect the Fastener Storage Bins and ToolMaker's Chest aka TMC from damage by stray solvent spray while cleaning up H&M Engine.
The Balcony does get some sunlight which would fade out the lacquer coating of the TMC. Will recycle an old towel to cover up when TMC not in use.


----------



## gus

Bought material to DIY multi-drawer Tool Cabinet which would cost me at least S$250 for a cheapy M.I.C. aka Made in China.
Frame less drawers done Same cost S$21 for the cut to size 16mm plywood. Erecting was done with an AirNailer,cordless drill and cordless screw driver and of course the humble hammer. Plywood was cut to size w/o run-outs.
Hopefully by this Friday 9th May completion except surface finishing.


----------



## gus

Making good progress. All five drawers with slides done. Some fine adjustment required to align and square up drawers and false fronts.
As shown with ToolMaker's Chest sitting on Tool Cabinet instead of work bench would mean ample and uncluttered work space.
Have not decided to lacquer or use Formica Cabinet.The Cabinet top would be best done with Formica. As lacquered top would easily be damaged when shifting TMC.


----------



## gus

OK. Tool Cabinet done and ToolMaker's Chest moved on to cabinet and work bench no longer cluttered. Come next week will apply clear lacquer to prevent smudging by greasy hands. Drawer Knobs as usual were DIY.Tool Cabinet material cost S$70(US$56) compared to US$150---$300 for the cheapest bought out Sheet Steel Tool Cabinet.

OK. Nemett-Lynx Engine here comes Gus. Seems we have three forum members working on same engine.


----------



## AnvilJack

What I like best about all of this thread is the real work of forum members and their willingness to share their efforts.

Most often, around the traps, I see a lot of "gunna" talk, and not much product.

People learn by watching projects unfold.  It is not the only way, and watching doesn't beat having a rip yourself, but it does fertilize the mind.

Thanks for sharing.


----------



## gus

Took a break away from the Nemett-Lynx Engine and went back to finish up Lacquering the false front of the tool cabinet drawers which bare plywood and greasy/grimy hands was messing up. Fortunately the "American Walnut Stained Lacquer did well to cover up despite of only four coats. With the Lacquer spayed on, I have fear of messing up the false fronts.

Next on the list would be a mini ToolMakers Chest to store end mill cutters and tools. Right now my milling cutters,tools and miscellaneous is hard to find.Planning one for the lathe too. Will be very busy till Christmas!!!!


----------



## gushhnet

Very nice work! Do you have the plans to share?


----------



## Tin Falcon

Nice work as always maybe some day I will have the time and ambition to build my own. But for now am thank full for my HF tools chest, craftsman tool box. 
Tin


----------



## gus

Tin Falcon said:


> Nice work as always maybe some day I will have the time and ambition to build my own. But for now am thank full for my HF tools chest, craftsman tool box.
> Tin




Hi Tin.

My crave for a real ToolMaker's Chest is temporary placated with DIY version.
Most likely make a trip to see my two grandchildren in  ,Melbourne/Sydney,Australia and also view and buy a real version from H&B. Nearby Paul Swifty's home is one outlet. 
Since completing the Chest and Cabinet,tools are easily found.
My end mill cutters and accessories are hard to find. A fix is on the way.
The HMEM Forum serves it purpose well to have us retirees busy doing DIYs.
Having forum memebers' support is so important to keep us going.

P.S.
Planning another (43rd) anniversary trip to Japan and this time to Fukuoka. Will look up craft shops for tools. Time passed so good/fast and happy.

Take care.


----------



## gus

gushhnet said:


> Very nice work! Do you have the plans to share?



Hi Gushhnet,

Would love but Gus is another old time folksy carpenter that works with no plans and drawings. My CAD is junk but planning to polish up CAD to draft plans. :hDe:
Was working from sketches and imagination. Plan to DIY a smaller ToolMaker's Chest for the milling cutters and tools.Will practice with the TurboCad to draft
from hand sketches.:hDe:

Was using cheapy Plywood from China. Cheap but poor quality. The top and bottom looks OK but the exposed sides tend to have holes to filled in.Still looking for Japanese Grade.


----------



## gus

*Tool Chest for Mini Mill.*
Time to DIY a new  Tool Chest and this time to hold tools,endmills etc. Fishing Tackle Box is about to fall apart.Retrieval of endmills and others made difficult like looking for a needle in a haystack.:rant: Been rack my brains for ideal tool chest.Quick and simple to make. Bazmak
solved my problem. He has the solution as he just DIY one for his new mill.th_wav


----------



## gus

Nothing much to sketch and all that was required was to come up with some dimensions to buy custom cut plywood.Cost me S$26 for this pile of cheapy M.I.C. 1'' plywood.


----------



## gus

Hi Barry, The Singapore twin came out and all thats left is put the drawer.

Foto shows the tools used for the job. W/o same job will take donkey years.

Some planing,sanding and putty required to look good.


----------



## bazmak

Hi Gus,my goodness you work fast.See you usedproffessional drawer slides
i just ran mine on the base.A few yrs ago i bought a box of slides at a garage sale for $7.When i sorted them out there were 19 sets of various lengths
Ive used them all up except i set at 400 long but didnt use them in order
to keep max depth.I assume the drawer will be to your usual proffessional standard.Mine was buit around the odd bits of timber i had lying around
Keep posting. Regards barry


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Hi Gus,my goodness you work fast.See you usedproffessional drawer slides
> i just ran mine on the base.A few yrs ago i bought a box of slides at a garage sale for $7.When i sorted them out there were 19 sets of various lengths
> Ive used them all up except i set at 400 long but didnt use them in order
> to keep max depth.I assume the drawer will be to your usual proffessional standard.Mine was buit around the odd bits of timber i had lying around
> Keep posting. Regards barry



Hi Barry,
While milling some past few parts for the Nemett-Lynx,I had problem looking for good endmills among the garbage built up over last ten years. Decided its time to DIY a one drawer tool chest for the mill.
Living in a walkup flat has many restrictions,hoarding odd timber pieces is ''no no'' though I built up a good lot of left-overs from projects.Just manage to keep the '''boss'' happy.
There are timber shops that supply custom cut plywood to your exact dimensional requirement.
Carpentry today is overkilled with cordless power tools. The Air-Powered Nail Gun not shown has just made the hammer obsolete.:rant:
Material for drawer just measured up and will complete today with mill mounted on. And bad mill tool housing gone.


----------



## gus

Single drawer milling tool chest about done and mill placed on top. Will lacquer the false front of drawer to minimise smudging by my grimy/greasy/dirty hands.

Will make separate compartments to hold end mills, tee nuts & clamps and the DIY Boring Head and etc etc.

With the mini mill elevated 6 inches,Gus no longer have to stoop to work the mill.

False front lacquered and first occupant in. ''Majesta'' 4f end mills M.I.T. aka made in Taiwan. Cost a arm and leg over the US$3---10 M.I.C. end mills.

Will put in compartments to segregate.

Barry aka Bazmak .Thanks for the good idea. Plan to do one for the cheapy M.I.C.
Bench Drill which have coaxed to serve me well.


----------



## gus

Miil Single Drawer Tool Chest completed with tools etc stored in and new drawer knob machined and fitted in.
Looking for end mills and tools from today onwards no longer a hassle. DIY your own drawer knob and pulling drawer in and out is sure fulfilling. DIY Custom Drawer Knobs too. 
Tool Chest or existing drawer upgrading now next.Looking for Cuttters, QCP,tool holders etc is stressfull when same have no dedicated tool chest.

Also on the list is DIY device to regrind M.I.C. endmills which by now only good for aluminium.Will use carbide mills solely for mild steel or tools steels.The MIC endmills performed badly milling the silver steel cams lobes for Nemett-Lynx Engine.

My carpentry skills is still below par trade school level.:hDe:


----------



## Kenlew

You can get plans for a machinist chest from ISSUE # 183 WOODSMITH (tm) Magazine's Plans.   We sell another set of plans - The "John B. Hetzel" Machinist Chest Plans.

Or...you can find an old chest and restore it.  I like to restore the old chests.


----------



## bazmak

Hi Gus, great job very proffessional.I tend to rush and cut corners with most
things.Too impatient to get on with the next job.Your in the same boat as
me with limited space so you have to look for any kikely spot and fit something in.Just used my homemade angle plate on the beam engine and using the collet chuck on the lathe more than the chucks.Lathe is going well very pleased
One problem was the gibbs tightening or loosening so bit the bullet and stripped it down as i knew i should have done in the first place.No nasty surprises it seem simple and well made.Clean all the hidden grease off,deburred a few things.Lightly oiled and set the gibbs.Seems OK but have taken dims of the gibbs
if i have anymore problems i will new ones in brass Regards Barry


----------



## gus

Hi All.
Thanks to Barry aka Bazmak. Barry DIY a single drawer tool chest for his new mill. It was so good that I had to clone it. Here are the two clones.
Made one more for the Bench Drill Press. Two hours to put together and another one day to ''Lacquer'' the drawer front. Thanks for the good idea. Cutting tools & etc for mill now properly stored and easily found. Same for the drill press. Drills are now ideally stored. As usual HMEM Folks don't buy drawer knobs,we DIYed them.

With both machine tools mounted on top of tool chest 5 1/2" higher,Gus no longer have to stoop.th_wav


----------



## Kenlew

Gus - great job on the cabinets.  I just picked up a small chest for the same purpose.  I am curious to how others manage their collection of cutting tools.  Your solution seems ideal!


----------



## gus

Kenlew said:


> Gus - great job on the cabinets.  I just picked up a small chest for the same purpose.  I am curious to how others manage their collection of cutting tools.  Your solution seems ideal!




Hi Ken,

Basically we need a few hand tools only but as time passed we built up a hoard of garbage which was supposed to be useful one day and we end up cluttering the tool chest. Trying very hard not to hoard/clutter. 

Wanted to buy a real traditional ''Toolmaker's Chest'' but UK and US vendors won't ship. I end up building a rather big  four drawer chest. Plus a 30'' high tool cabinet to spanners,screw drivers etc etc.

Next on the list will be a mini Tool Cabinet for the mini lathe.


----------



## Kenlew

Gus- Here is my (hopefully) solution to drill, tap, reamer, endmill, etc storage.  Measures about 18" wide x 20" deep x 13 1/2" tall.  Drawers are about 1 1/4" tall.


Also, is this the type of "Toolmaker's Chest" you were trying to buy?


----------



## gus

The bottom Red ToolMakers Chest preferred. However the urgency is over. The DIY ToolMakers Chest will do.


----------



## gus

Along with the Tool Cabinet, boxes to hold delicate measuring instruments will be required. 
A good friend and the only guy to support my model engine building gave me a Japanese vernier depth gage which is about 20 year old and not quite antique yet. Just happened to be window shopping at Daiso-------200 yen shop and found some cheapy but well done mini wooden boxes. After getting home ,went to Daiso,Singapore and bought enough Japanese planks to make a mini box/case for the depth gage. 
Done and depth gage safely contained. Will decide on colour of Lacquer coating to spray on.

Some more boxes will be done. The expensive Starrett Digital Caliper came in with a cheapy plastic box. Box will done shortly and clear Lacquered over. Same plan for the Mitutoyo Calipers. Mini hinges and clasps bought from TokyuHands.Same hard to get at home.


----------



## bazmak

Your turning into a cabinet maker Gus.More wood than metal.I love it its all fun
Of my last 3 projects i could not have managed without them.Lathe collet chuck gets more use than the 3 jaw(with a full set of collets).My T slot angle plt has 
numerous setups and the rct cutter gets used all the time,will make a 11/2
32 tip next and will have to buy a set of endmills


----------



## gus

Hi Barry,

Gus gone wood crazy. Just made one more case to replace the cheapy plastic case that came with 
Starrett Digital Caliper.This is about the last wooden case. Going deep sea fishing in East Malaysia. After a rest will finish up all prepping to spin the Nemett-Lynx Engine.


Was supposed to have minimum lacquer coats enough protect cover from smudging by my grimy hands but ended with glossy coat .


----------



## Kenlew

Got a touch of "OCD" and organized cutting tools...


----------



## bazmak

You have done a great job,but as an expert in using all available space
i would have made the drawers for the drill and mill as one unit
with possible 3rd drawer in centre for holdins possible verniers or???
Regards barry


----------



## RonGinger

Nice box, but what do the labels mean? The numbers make no sense to me.


----------



## Kenlew

RonGinger said:


> Nice box, but what do the labels mean? The numbers make no sense to me.



It's probably goofy to most but it works for me.  I separate the tools by fraction.  2 = 1/2", 4 = 1/4", 3/4", 8 = 1/8", 3/8" 5/8", 7/8".

If I'm looking for a size, it is easier to differentiate between say, 1/8" & 3/8" than to have sizes with very little difference side by side.  Of course, when you get to 64's", it doesn't work so well...


----------



## gus

My impossible dream---------Studley Tool Chest. Seems to be a mixture of carpentry and metal working tools.Only a dream.Even if I succeed in DIYing same. Will be very hard to maintain and housekeep.


----------



## Theclockworks

Well I  decide to take the easy route and bought this Chinese copy ,I looked at building my own time and cost involved prohibited that option (more time metal bashing)it was delivered next day to ordering and is now full,next problem convincing S W M B A I need another for the over flow.


----------



## Theclockworks

Sorry about the Australian view of the Picture


----------



## gus

The Chinese ToolMakers Chest looks good. Was a wise decision to buy and have more time for metal bashing.
Meanwhile I am still working out put the tools where they should be.And at the same time trying hard not to collect too much tools that I may use once in a hundred years.


----------



## DanP

Gus, you're going to have to add to your signature, Happy Wood Butcher.


----------



## Theclockworks

I think of myself as being a tool aholic if I buy the next do dar what's it I'am bound to find it useful one day.


----------



## bazmak

The only time you use that odd tool or lump of material is a 
few days after you have thrown it out


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> The only time you use that odd tool or lump of material is a
> few days after you have thrown it out




True. Swear to that. I threw away a mounting clip bending jig months ago and I had to make a quicky jig knocked together with metal work and carpentry.
This is one jig I won't regret discarding as it took 5 mins to put together.The alum. disc went to scrap bin.


----------



## Swifty

Hi Gus, it's looking great, I'm just wondering if the fuel will be able to get up to the carburettor, most tanks are mounted a bit higher to make it an easier gradient for the fuel. If it works at the height that you have it, it may pay to put in a non return valve in the fuel line.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Swifty said:


> Hi Gus, it's looking great, I'm just wondering if the fuel will be able to get up to the carburettor, most tanks are mounted a bit higher to make it an easier gradient for the fuel. If it works at the height that you have it, it may pay to put in a non return valve in the fuel line.
> 
> Paul.




Planning to put in a Rupnow fuel check valve to prevent backflow.

Now looking for a propeller. Please advise prop O.L. Looks great with a prop as show piece but runs well with C.I.Pulley.

Putting head gasket. Valves relapped. Looks like start-up will be next week.

The fuel tank and clips came from Paul. The bending jig was a joke. If not for the well annealed brass strip,the soft wood nailed stop piece would come off.
Today will the never ending bits and pieces to mop up. Been a great fishing trip. Won't be long when the trawlers will wipe out all the fish.:rant:
Each fisho took home 20kg of Red Snappers etc. Only cost us S$20 per pax and this came in by cargo plane delivering very fresh fish to Singapore Fishery Wholesalers.


----------



## bazmak

Nice engine Gus How do you find the time.How many hours per day
in Singapore must be more than 24,or dont you sleep?.Further to my comment on the drawers for your mill and drill
If you move the drawers slightly apart and fit a larger single piece top
there will be room for a 3rd drawer to fill that wasted space
Just a thought. Regards barry
PS I may redo mine later hopefully to a standard as high as yours


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Nice engine Gus How do you find the time.How many hours per day
> in Singapore must be more than 24,or dont you sleep?.Further to my comment on the drawers for your mill and drill
> If you move the drawers slightly apart and fit a larger single piece top
> there will be room for a 3rd drawer to fill that wasted space
> Just a thought. Regards barry
> PS I may redo mine later hopefully to a standard as high as yours




Hi Barry,

Good Idea but big problem .No space left on the mill/drill/grinder table. Best to move to Oz and but a house with two car garage.


----------



## Swifty

Gus, I have answered your prop question over on your build log.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Thanks. Paul. The engine will be a conversation piece.

Thanks for all the help,advice and guidance. Not possessing the skills of Tool&Die Maker is sure tough. 

During the break will be making tools and accessories. Knurling tool long overdue.


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Nice engine Gus How do you find the time.How many hours per day
> in Singapore must be more than 24,or dont you sleep?.Further to my comment on the drawers for your mill and drill
> If you move the drawers slightly apart and fit a larger single piece top
> there will be room for a 3rd drawer to fill that wasted space
> Just a thought. Regards barry
> PS I may redo mine later hopefully to a standard as high as yours



Hi Barry ,

On second thoughts, the little space/gap could be used to store recycled drills
etc etc.Will KIV.


----------



## bazmak

Ssing the little space serves 2 purposes
It saves having to clean the swarfe out all the time
and gives an extra drawer.Because i did mine from odd leftover
timber it does not look nice and difficult to clean out the corners
So later will bite the bullet,buy some correct timber and make new
designed to overcome the niggles i am finding Barry


----------



## gus

The void will be used to store old drills. Now trying to get the electronic ignition going. New trick for this old dog.;D


----------



## gus

*Poor Man's Sanding Machine*
 Plan DIY above. By the time of completion,will look like a poor cousin. With a 220w sewing machine motor,I don't expect too much sanding power. Most likely barely enough power to touch up mating faces of mitre joints for instrument boxes.


----------



## gus

*Poor Man's Sanding Machine*

Alrighty. I got started. But which end shall I begin?


----------



## gus

No plans/drawings/sketch and just play by ear.  Now going for 4'' instead of 5'' O.D. Sanding Disc and sander to be downsize a wee bit. Its doubtful 200 watts sewing machine motor can power 5'' sanding disc.


----------



## bazmak

Looking good Gus.Should be good for light finishing sanding.Much more control for smaller fine work.Big benefit if you can hinge the table.Heavy duty weldable hinges are good and cheap Regards Barry


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Looking good Gus.Should be good for light finishing sanding.Much more control for smaller fine work.Big benefit if you can hinge the table.Heavy duty weldable hinges are good and cheap Regards Barry





Hi Barry,
Thanks for the input. For now trying the lazy way .

OK.  The Sanding Disc is done and mounted. Motor and disc must be aligned/squared up with the sanding table. Components for table done. The 
Degrees Mitre Guide has yet to be thought of.
Drilling the brass coupling makes me worried. The brass drills performed well w/o grabbing/snatching. For insurance,had the flange secured to drill the countersink/counterbore to take the cheese head sockets screws.


----------



## Swifty

Looking good Gus, I made something similar years ago for the end of my bench grinder, used it for woodwork. It's dissassembled now as I have a polishing buff in its place.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Hi Paul,

Basis sander good for metering timber ends,will go from here to end mill grinder. Small cup grinders are expensive and hard to find. By now I have a TupperWare Cup full of M.I.C. EndMills good for Aluminium.
Have gradually made switch to using quality carbide endmills and they are costly.The MIC carbide mills are so far so good. Gus now sort of taking a break doing quickie jobs. Sander is one. Power feed foor the mill may be another. Have all components on hand and some unfinished plans in the brain box.  
Take care. 
Christmas around the corner. 
Us Grandpas will have to dig deep into our pockets for grandchildren.


----------



## gus

Table mounted on but a wee bitty out of square with the sanding chuck. No worries. Will use paper/cardboard to shim. Mitre Angle guide is more or less thought of. Trial run most likely tommorrow and there after some window dressing. Have some instrument boxes to do next week and sander in J.I.T. aka ''just in time''. The motor is actually brand new ,given by a friend and kept for years.Hope it will spin.


----------



## Swifty

gus said:


> Hi Paul
> Christmas around the corner.
> Us Grandpas will have to dig deep into our pockets for grandchildren.



Hi Gus, I know that you have grandchildren here in Melbourne, are there any others ? We have just had our 2 1/2 year old grandson stay for a couple of nights, his mother is overseas for 2 weeks for work and of course our son still has to go to work, so both sets of grandparents are sharing the looking after. We were sure glad to pass him on to his other grandma, it's been too long since we had to deal with temper tantrums in the shopping centre etc. the terrible two's are certainly well named.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Swifty said:


> Hi Gus, I know that you have grandchildren here in Melbourne, are there any others ? We have just had our 2 1/2 year old grandson stay for a couple of nights, his mother is overseas for 2 weeks for work and of course our son still has to go to work, so both sets of grandparents are sharing the looking after. We were sure glad to pass him on to his other grandma, it's been too long since we had to deal with temper tantrums in the shopping centre etc. the terrible two's are certainly well named.
> 
> Paul.




Hi Paul,
I am lucky, Ari and Tasha in Glenhuntley,Melbourne.  They have no expensive toys and just like GrandPa, they make their own toys. Fancy making their own Christmas trees too.  They are getting proficient in making and baking cookies and short breads. 

Throwing tantrums part of growing up. Their mum did it to us. And how did she manage to keep them toeing the line makes me wonder.

Hi GrandPa Paul. Was nice trading grandpa/grandchildren happenings. Ha ha.
Relax.They soon graduate to helpful ''threes''. Ha ha.

Now figuring out a good looking and effective Mitre Angle Guide. Having 1/2 dozen ideas and now zeroing to one.


----------



## Swifty

Gus, you should be able to machine a shallow groove in the plate to suit a guide bar with an adjustable angle plate. How are you planning to stick the sandpaper / emery on the disk. I used a glue made for the purpose, it allowed the paper to be peeled off and replaced with a new one.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Hi Paul,

Good Idea. 
Proxxon sells adhesive stick on sanding disc. For now may use double sided tape or contact glue for testing.
Since I am only doing very light sanding to touch up and get the mitre angle,same same disc may last quite a few box life.
Sanding Machine done. Will wire up tomorrow and test run. Might as well set and lock up mitre joint angle.
For now going for the simplest grinding guide.
Have some instrument boxes to make. The sander is just in time.
Sander cost nothing using surplus material. Motor came from a friend.


----------



## bazmak

Hi Gus,my sander had 6" discs that glued on but it was a ball ache
Commercially available 7" are available for velcro fitting.Check my thread.You can glue on the the mounting pad and then  change discs with ease.You can cut them down to suit if you wish but try them at 7". Regards Barry


----------



## gus

Hi Paul and forum members.

I took the risk and used Contact Glue. Impatient thats all. Sanding Disc replacement will no fun. Reckon current disc will last many bevels before replacement. Tried buying on Ebay Adhesive Disc but they won't ship. Could complete order with Amazon either.
 Finished Sander and test run OK. Its now  proven,the 200 watts motor is only good for touching up after bevel cut as I suspected.
The Angle Bar need a wee bitty adjustment. The test piece bevel measured 47 degrees. Will clean up for  a good foto shot.


Next week will make a case to house the expensive Taylor-Jones Reamers. Now have 1/4    3/8     1/2  Machine Reamers. M.I.C. Reamers are junks. Even the ones that came from EuroTrade.com.uk.


----------



## gus

Trial run was good but bevel angle is 47 degrees, reset to 45.
Couldn't resist calling a day .In the last 2 hours went for triall production run. Box done with three good mitre joints and one barely acceptable. See bottom left. Hair line gap.With the bevel sander ,all future instrument cases will done within 2 hours with top lid hinged and catch fitted on. Bought timber from ''Daiso'' but planks are M.I.C.
Its weekend fiiiiiiiiishiiiiiiiiing tomorrow.


----------



## bazmak

Just a couple of comments Gus.the table should be as close to the disc as possible.Are you sanding on the up or the down side.Whats the motor rotation
CW or ACW..If velco pads are not available in your neck of the woods,i could post some over.7"   Bazmak


----------



## bazmak

Just another comment i forgot gus.The piece of timber really needs to move side to side to get a better and more accurate finish.You need a slot in the table
and an adjustable protractor as supplied with the el cheapo sanders


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Just another comment i forgot gus.The piece of timber really needs to move side to side to get a better and more accurate finish.You need a slot in the table
> and an adjustable protractor as supplied with the el cheapo sanders



Hi Barry,

Good idea but I got away feed head on but finish not best. Will do that for the 
later to make good bevel. Currently the motor direction is CCW.


----------



## gus

Came back after a not very productive fishing sesion dog-tired ,took a 15 mins nap and was charged with some energy to finish up mini tool box for the very expensive Taylor & Jones Imperial Size Machine Reamers and DoveTail Cutters accumulated .
Have no plans to Lacquer Coat as same will not be located in Grimy MachineShop.


----------



## bazmak

Looks to nice timber gus,shame not to finish.Try a coat of cooking oil and then
finish with shoe polish.Poor mans french polish.Wipe a piece of scrap with
vegetable oil or teak oil if you have the real stuff.Wow what a difference


----------



## Swifty

I agree with Bazmak, I think that it needs some sort of protection, how about a few coats of furniture wax.

Paul.


----------



## gus

OK. Will try Barry's method and next box try Paul's .Its true w/o a protective coating,it will smudge.

Lacquering was too much work and costly and wood surface not prepped,all mini flaws shows up.

My boss is not happy with the thinner smell.


----------



## gus

Done with Neutral Shoe Polish to preserve natural rubber tree wood colour. Looks slight darker than the natural. Next box will have furniture wax.

Will do device to slide sand bevel. Butt feeding not best to get best bevel mating.


----------



## Tin Falcon

I tend to keep french polish on hand I make my own equal parts  shellac, linseed oil and alcohol. (denatured) (one could use everclear as well i suppose. 
Just made a fresh batch .  Do not think it is allowed shipment air freight.  Shellac has gotten expensive almost $ for a half pint. 
Tin


----------



## bazmak

Hi gus,did you use only shoe polish.Its better to give a coat of oil to soak in and bring out the wood colour,then seal with wax polish.Try ti out on pieces of scrap.Vegetable oil works ok.As tin says shellack is one way for the experts.
The old french polishers used to mix their own.Keep us up to date with more photos etc Regards Barry


----------



## Tin Falcon

> The old french polishers used to mix their own.


Like I said just mixed up a batch are you calling Me OLD ????
Tin


----------



## bazmak

Sorry will rephrase that that to old school.I remember mixing it up
at school in woodworking class,and linseed oil etc,modern chemical et


----------



## gus

OK. Slide Done. And Barry was right. For best result, its best to slide feed. Got the 45 on second try with my 
DIY El Cheapo Protractor. Plan to put in  electronic speed controller to make it user friendly. Foot Pedal Speed Controller is not advisable as it is very distracting and Gus may end up bevelling his thumb and fingers.

After this will make a box for gasket hole punch set which has to be retrieved from the so many drawers. Might as make one to hold ''brass'' drills. Carpentry is so relaxing and forgiving.


----------



## gus

Happen to have a fishy mate who  is a very good professional carpenter. Comes from a carpenter family from China. Will seek his help on the Shellac formula.


----------



## bazmak

Looking great Gus,as you say it only takes a touch for a perfect joint
Been doing it for years for 90o dowel joint,i bought the sander just for that job
but now using it more for metalwork.Next step for you is more power with a belt/disc sander.Luv your posts and photos,keep them coming


----------



## lathe nut

I know these are not high quality but for a yard sale that is a good find, got them both for fifty dollars and picked up a Kennedy, think its a 9 draw loaded with things, post that later.


----------



## Swifty

Gus, new slide will be so much handier, great job.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Hi LatheNut,

Gus has no choice but to make his own poor imitation ToolMaker's Chest. EuroTrade and others won't ship same to Singapore.:rant::wall: 
Believe our very strict Fumigation Certification requirement deters.


----------



## gus

At last the perfect mtire-corner joint happened after some fine adjustment. The sanding disc was slightly out of square and now fixed with a wedge(Carpenter's folly)
Will go on to put in Electronic Speed Control. Foot Pedal Control not best for this 71 young man.Very distracting and may end up bevelling my fingers.


----------



## gus

Alrighty. Been very diligent today. Bevel Sander completed with Electronic Speed Regulator.

As I guess,the 200 watts Sewing Machine Motor is at most just enough to power the Sanding Disc for bevel touch ups. Motor must be revved to full speed to get the sanding power. Power cord fitted on with 13 Amps fused three pin plug as per P.U.B. Requirement.

Sander is about size of shoe box. Storage no a big issue. Just bought some planks for the next instrument box.
Thanks for viewing and giving Gus expert advice. There are many carpenters in our HMEM.


----------



## gus

Had a practice run after the preps were done. BandSaw stops and Bevel Sawing Jig. Same jig,my fingers can be safely away from bandsaw and save my fingers.
Had to fine tune bevel angle. Latest box now have all four perfect bevel joints. My skill installing hinges is not best. 
My collection of gasket hole punches store in new box will be easy to locate and no more missing punches.

For now made enough instrument boxes.Bevel Sander stored away from machineshop.

Time to get back to building engines and metal bashing.


----------



## bazmak

Very nice Gus,why dont you now make a new fishing tackle box
and then you have gone a complete circle.I have always had a love
for mixing woodwork and metalwork,


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Very nice Gus,why dont you now make a new fishing tackle box
> and then you have gone a complete circle.I have always had a love
> for mixing woodwork and metalwork,




Hi Barry,

Planning to do a very small tackle box for the March 2015 Burma Bank Trip to store prepped tackles and hooks. Will have a stack of trays. I have a bad habit to hoard and current tackle box has too many items that I don't need. Now having a '' vision'' how the new tackle box will look like. The hinges and latches for the top cover must be robust. 

One has to be careful when touching up the bevel ends.The sander has a very good appetite. Ate a good portion before I realised it . The last box ended shorter and narrower.:wall::hDe::rant:  No problem. Gus is an easy customer.
Will take note for next box.


----------



## lathe nut

Gus, sorry to hear that you cannot enjoy the imports, guess I really did not need those boxes but heck for the price, you sure do good work, love that little grinder, have a couple of those little motor might be a future project, neat the way you built it, thanks for the show and tell, Lathe Nut


----------



## gus

Gus is suffering from BoxMania. This is the last box with the soft plank stock running down to bits and pieces which are not big enough to make any more boxes.
The expensive Japanese------Kyoritsu Multimeter came in a cheapy paper box. Made a box to hold and protect Multimeter. This time got wary of the Sander eating too much length or width out the side pieces. Box a wee bitty too wide and require to have top lid is made up of two pieces glued together and plane/sand down. Joint Line is hardly seen. The hinges were fitted in and aligned. 
Plan to move on to the DIY Power Feed for the mini mill. I promise-----no more timber bashing.


----------



## bazmak

Hi Gus,the secret to making good boxes is to make a complete sealed box first
Make your sides and glue BOTH top and bottom on.Leave the lid and base slightly oversize and sand down all nice and neat.Then cut around the box
in the correct location to suit lid and box depth.Lightly plane the cut edges and fit hinges etc.Voila a perfectly formed box and lid identical in size and shape.Ive been 
doing it that way for years.Works a treat,give it a try Your bandsaw should work quite well Regards Barry


----------



## bazmak

Rather than a solid lid,make the sides from say 60x19 and the top and bottom
from 6/10mm ply or equivalent.Lid can be say 20mm dp and box say 40mm deep.Inside can be fitted with clips for storing other items.Just like a miniature tool box Barry


----------



## Swifty

Gus, I make boxes the same way as Barry, 4 sides and the bottom and lid made from ply glued on, sand the outside and then cut the lid off with a slitting saw in my mill. This way the lids have a nice lip all around.

Paul.


----------



## RonGinger

I make boxes in a similar way. I cut a saw blade wide kerf on the inside of the sides, at the right distance down from the top, and just half way through the wood. When the box is finished outside I set the table saw to cut just below the groove I made on the inside and I have a top with a rebate groove all around. It takes some careful measurement, but makes a real nice box.

I have also made them with a slot all around that holds a sliding top panel. Then there are no hinges or other hardware.


----------



## gus

Hi Barry,
Good ideas. Will use them for future boxes.


----------



## gus

Swifty said:


> Gus, I make boxes the same way as Barry, 4 sides and the bottom and lid made from ply glued on, sand the outside and then cut the lid off with a slitting say in my mill. This way the lids have a nice lip all around.
> 
> Paul.



Hi Paul,

Good idea. Gus learning the hard way.The Japanese Cabinet makers are very good at fine details. They paved their work procedures and lead to fine finish.
Been watching them on  YouTube. There are some DIY tools and Jigs to make before I get to make good instrument boxes.

Whereas impatient Gus paved his way to bad finishing and end up mess to clean up to look good. The Multimeter Box is the fifth box.I guess by the time I ever do the tenth box,it will have less goofs. Ha ha.

Today moving on to DIY Power Feed . All in the head and making sketches and building a dummy before deciding to proceed.
. A good size M.I.T. Power Feed from H&B cost A$600----700. The consolation is that its won't fit on to my mini mill and hence have to DIY same. The Sieg equivalent cost AS$200---300. Whereas mine will give hours of fun and pleasure if I made it. 
Take Care. I trust GrandPa Paul is surviving.


----------



## Swifty

Gus, we had our grandson all day yesterday, what a handful, and to top it off he has started toilet training. Thank goodness he still has an afternoon sleep, as we need the rest as well. It's great to have him to ourselves for the day, but we look forward to mum coming to pick him up after work.

Paul.


----------



## gus

Swifty said:


> Gus, we had our grandson all day yesterday, what a handful, and to top it off he has started toilet training. Thank goodness he still has an afternoon sleep, as we need the rest as well. It's great to have him to ourselves for the day, but we look forward to mum coming to pick him up after work.
> 
> Paul.



Hi Paul,

Am glad our Aussie grandchildren are in Glenhuntley,Melbourne and faraway.We do missed them.Tasha was a cry baby. We get to chat with Ari and Tasha thru FaceBook.Both are in school now. GrandMa Nellie is bringing along lots of Christmas gifts for both. Some bought in Japan. Gus going elswhere.
Take care. GrandPa.


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Hi Gus,the secret to making good boxes is to make a complete sealed box first
> Make your sides and glue BOTH top and bottom on.Leave the lid and base slightly oversize and sand down all nice and neat.Then cut around the box
> in the correct location to suit lid and box depth.Lightly plane the cut edges and fit hinges etc.Voila a perfectly formed box and lid identical in size and shape.Ive been
> doing it that way for years.Works a treat,give it a try Your bandsaw should work quite well Regards Barry


 

Hi Barry,

Been practicing hard on the bevel corner joints. ''The Stick-0n" Sanding Disc came. Check and refine alignment and squared up table with sanding chuck. Adjusted the bevel guide. And at last a perfect 45 degrees bevel joint. Inside/outside perfect 90 degrees.
Will make a case for the costly ''Made in Singapore'' Electronic Protector your way before it gets bashed in the ToolMaker's Chest.


----------



## gus

Swifty said:


> Gus, I make boxes the same way as Barry, 4 sides and the bottom and lid made from ply glued on, sand the outside and then cut the lid off with a slitting saw in my mill. This way the lids have a nice lip all around.
> 
> Paul.




Hi Paul and Barry.

Made it the P&B way. How come I did not think about doing this way?

Make/glue the box frame, use Makita Router to recess top and bottom frame to receive top/bottom lids. I Have a problem, the Makita BandSaw throat is not high enough. Looks like the separation will be done on the mill with slitting saw. Did not go fishing today and so its carpentry time.Just can't hang around doing nothing.


----------



## bazmak

Congratulations Gus, the P&B way. I like it,you will just have to find something thats needs a box.When i have to make one will try the internal and external rebate method.Good for a lift off lid but dont think it would suit hinges
Merry Xmas


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Congratulations Gus, the P&B way. I like it,you will just have to find something thats needs a box.When i have to make one will try the internal and external rebate method.Good for a lift off lid but dont think it would suit hinges
> Merry Xmas




Hi Barry,

i did have problem fitting the hinges. Haven't done this for ages. Using the Router was another adventure. Got it right the first time.
Problem
The BandSaw has got limited throat height. The slitting saw and mill took over. Sawing this on the mill bit dicey but parting cut was neat.

Case for ''Made in Singapore & exported by UK Co."", Electronic Protractor done the P&B way. There is space for similar size instrument.
I trust the top lid won't warp!!!


----------



## Swifty

Great job Gus, I clamp a parallel to the table as a backstop when I feed the box through, it will save you hitting the nut on the saw arbor.

Paul.


----------



## goldstar31

Wish I had your time and patients sorry, patience. I conned my Missus to donate her couple of dental cabinet boxes and implements of torture or whatever. That's 'pun'---- CON servation!

Well she did borrow my swag. Hammered the gold out of some of her extractions and cast a little gold ingot to wear. 

Isn't it all fun?

Norman


----------



## gus

Swifty said:


> Great job Gus, I clamp a parallel to the table as a backstop when I feed the box through, it will save you hitting the nut on the saw arbor.
> 
> Paul.




Hi Paul,

Everything that could wrong,nearly went wrong.  Manipulating  work piece away from the hex nut was tough. Mini size mill makes even more tough.
Next time round will have a bar to hold work piece.

The next case will have the bevel corners and sliding cover.The Makita Router will be used to cut the slide slots.Having a bandsaw,router and bevel sander cuts all the hassle and a small box gets done in two hours.
Will do this for the Polish 2'' Outside Mike bought for S$30. Looks cheap and nasty though. Went to ''Daiso'' to stock some planks @ S$2 each.

Now working on the cork sheet ''O'' Gaskets.

Grandchildren faraway but We are in the Christmassy mood with RC Church across Gray Lane singing Carols almost every night.


----------



## Swifty

gus said:


> Grandchildren faraway but We are in the Christmassy mood with RC Church across Gray Lane singing Carols almost every night.



Would that be the "Church of Our Lady, Queen of Peace" ? 
Don't worry, haven't been there, I googled it, also checked street view, the area looks nice. &#127877;


----------



## gus

Swifty said:


> Would that be the "Church of Our Lady, Queen of Peace" ?
> Don't worry, haven't been there, I googled it, also checked street view, the area looks nice. &#127877;




Hi Paul,

Oh Gosh. You must have lived in Singapore??? Queen of Peace. !!!

History. Nellie was baptised here. We were married here. Monica and Adrian bapised here. Sunday schools. Both grew up drug free and graduates.

Must be very good ''FengSui'' in this area so close to the church. ha Ha Ha.


----------



## goldstar31

Hooray, I've kept my various homes free of post codes and so on.
One is still part of a hospital for the insane, another is next door to where a one eyed, deaf Arab abducted a village maiden( her story) and the other is on a Whisky Trail. 
My neighbour at one is half Chinese- which means half Buddhist, I still have to find out but he drinks whisky- and is a Freemason. Where the one eyed Arab used to live is next door to a navetta( de Tudon. yes, Gus) which is an upturned boat made out of stone to bury people in. And Gus, I do NOT drink whisky, it is ALL hilariously true.


----------



## gus

The Tool Cabinet for the mini lathe is long overdued. After 10 years, I have bought so many tools, HSS bits,tool holders and two QCTPs. Looking for any particular tool is sometimes a prolonged torture.
Here's my sketch. Apple NB is not friendly to TurboCad. Will have to but a cheapy S$800 Acer for TurboCad. Will cut travel and budget to buy a cheapy NBook.
Plan to buy cut to size plywood tomorrow to build the frame which is a ''cordless drill and Screw Driver'' Job. With the air nailer helping out. All drawers should be done by latest Dec 31st 2014.


----------



## gus

From cartoon sketch to something real. The frame is up and tomorrow some drawers fitted in less the false front.
Really a drill,screwdriver,air nailer and carpenter's square job.


----------



## bazmak

Seems to me that you have been converted from engineer to Chippy Gus
Great work keep it up.Dont drink too much in the new year
Regards barry


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Seems to me that you have been converted from engineer to Chippy Gus
> Great work keep it up.Dont drink too much in the new year
> Regards barry



Hi Barry.

Gus out the drinking circuit long time ago. 

Collected too much cutters and accessories. Other than the regularly used cutters and tools for the lathe,the ''seldom used'' hard to find. The Tool Cabinet is for the lathe tools.,
The beauty about carpentry ,we seem to get bigger jobs done fast and very forgiving. The drawers are in and waiting for the false fronts. By noon tool cabinet should 99 % done and moved next to the mini lathe.


----------



## chucketn

Looks great, Gus. I wish we were closer so you could help me build one like that. Thanks for sharing your work.

Chucl


----------



## bazmak

Considering this thread started life with an old fishing box it has become a long and interesting thread.You seem to be one of life rare interesting people Gus
I read all your threads with great interest,keep them coming


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Considering this thread started life with an old fishing box it has become a long and interesting thread.You seem to be one of life rare interesting people Gus
> I read all your threads with great interest,keep them coming


n

Hi Barry,

You are very kind.
Gus has to keep busy body and mind to keep Dementia away. After ten years,the balcony machineshop could do with some cabinets to store toolings and make them easily found. The balcony getting a bit cluttered . My AirCraft
Repair Manager/Son has voiced his concern for shop safety. Its true I did tripped over a power cord and nearly hit the back of head on a shoe locker.
Fortunately I did a quick flip and came out bit bruised and no head injury.
Judo training and skating helped out with the quick reflex.

Take care. HAve the last drink at home.


----------



## gus

Tool Cabinet for mini lathe done. Drawer Knobs were borrowed from existing ToolMaker's Chest. I have five to turn and I have no 25mm Alum. Bar stock.:rant:
Will move over to machineshop shortly.
Thanks for watching.
Happy New Year.


----------



## goldstar31

gus said:


> n
> 
> Gus has to keep busy body and mind to keep Dementia away.


 

 Absolutely agree, far too many people retire and find that their brains retired 20 years earlier¬

So keep your bodies and minds active in 2015. -----------------------------

Or else?


Norman


----------



## gus

After 10 years of turning out parts,Gus at long last got his lathe tools/cutters etc stored and easily retrieved. Tools/cutters/reamers/drills/tool holders/centre drills etc have their allocated bin/drawer storage.


----------



## gus

Year end resolutions done and completed. 
2015 will move back to Steel Bashing. Wood Bashing done. 2014 been a great year.


Jan 2015 ,Will start on the MiniMagneto Project to power the Webster Engine now semi-retired.

Happy New Year to all HMEM Forum Members.


----------



## Swifty

Another nice job on the drawers Gus, and a Happy New Year to you as well.

Paul.


----------



## bazmak

Happy new year Gus. Hope you dont mean it about no more wood working
Dont know how you managed without all the new storage.Bet you will find/make more. Regards Barry


----------



## gus

bazmak said:


> Happy new year Gus. Hope you dont mean it about no more wood working
> Dont know how you managed without all the new storage.Bet you will find/make more. Regards Barry



Hi Barry,

You are right. Tooling for lathe and mill were badly organised in the past.

Your idea of having mill and drill press sitting on its own single drawer tool chest was great. Looking for/finding  end mills and drills now like a breeze.
From here i had to go on to the Tool Cabinet for the lathe.

2015 will be a great year. No longer wasting time looking for turning/milling/drill tools and productivity raised. Ha ha ha.


----------



## gus

Sure wished balcony another couple of feet wider. Will have to compromise. A bit tight but will get used to this working space. While cleaning chips, found it OK space wise. Colour wise of the laminate, I have no choice but accept some cleaning up every time I work on the lathe. Labour wise, no painting/shellac/ lacquer done. As for the knobs, I may go for BassWood turning. Good Luck to Gus as he has no wood turning experience.


----------



## goldstar31

Gus
       System working again. Turning knobs or anything wooden. Try to get a bit of  lignum vitae from an old boatyard. Originally, it was used as material for stern and propellor tubes bearings.
It turns with ordinary lathe tools and comes off the lathe like thick grease. With a clean lathe tray to catch the stuff, you can use the turnings as polish because it contains natural oils.

I used to go down to the breakers yards on the River Tyne- and sweetheart the stuff out of the guys.

Cheers

Norman


----------



## gus

Hi Norman,

I am heading to Japan. Saw some very hard/dark/dense/fine grain wood at TokyuHands. Will for for this if it does't break a banks and if not fall back to aluminium. Keep you posted. Meanwhile I am in South Thailand having a great time with the Thai Food. Take Care.


----------



## Tin Falcon

> Sure wished balcony another couple of feet wider. Will have to compromise. A bit tight but will get used to this working space.



the old paradox . we build or buy a nice storage unit or bench to better use the space and we end up with less floor space or bench space. I am blessed with a small attached heated cooled shop about 11 Ft x 14 feet.  It is my shop my study my library  man cave etc. I have been blessed with things to put in it. I have an OAK Mayline drafting table a 5' oak desk a floor lathe 2- 5 ft work benches a home made book shelf ,roll around tool chest, filing cabinets....... some days seems like just enough room to change my mind and barely enough room to change a tool bit.  but its home and my shop so am grateful for it. 
Tin


----------



## goldstar31

Hi Gus( And TF)

Hope that you are successful with your wood. Do get some dense hardwoods and enjoy a bit of turning.

Space? I have an 8x6 shed and am stealing room in my garage which has two lawnmowers, a big Audi A4 Avant and a Mercedes SLK, garden tools and sail board( son's) and well- if I can get in- Me? My other car lives in the open amongst the trees with incontinent pigeons and magpies.

Happily, I'm still long   like a leather lace- but not quite as thick!

Cheers

Norman


----------



## Cogsy

goldstar31 said:


> and sail board( son's)


 
You're 84 you've said, so your son is what, in his 60's? Yet he still goes sailboarding and stores it in your garage??

My kids will be kicked out of home long before I'm an octogenarian.


----------



## gus

This thread is attraction lotsa attention and thats good with feedback plenty . I think I am about to run short of carpentry jobs.
Suppose to rest my brains but I am having a hard time zeroing on any one project. It will be 2 1/2'' Boring Head or the MiniMagneto.


----------



## goldstar31

gus said:


> Suppose to rest my brains but I am having a hard time zeroing on any one project. It will be 2 1/2'' Boring Head or the MiniMagneto.


 
Nah! George Thomas- Model Engineers Workshop Manual- his 2" one but get crafty and make the shank to accept Morse taper and parallel which carefully makes a boring tool and a ball turning tool for just a little more effort.  And then you get craftier still and make the parallel bore to take 43mm collar to put a drill in and a spacer for the ball turning attachment.

Now Gus, will you let this old fella get on and download my library for you-----PLEASE?

Norman


----------



## gus

Didn't want to mess up the false front of the drawers with my grimy hands,switched to using Japanese BassWood bought from ''Daiso Dollar Shop''. Most of us metal machinists seems to have cold feet turning wood. Gus Included.Fear of the unknown put aside and wooden knobs done. Not to bad results for first time ''Wood Turner Gus''. 
Tools were wood chisel,file and sandpaper. From today the expensive aluminium is out and replaced by wood.
However I have five knobs to DIY.


----------



## goldstar31

Gus
       You CAN make a rest out of a bit of round steel that fits the actual lathe tool holder. 

That is Mark ONE but if the round bar is shaped like a Letter L you can do face plate turning as well. That is Mark TWO.

Hint- holding a short chisel is not the way to go.It can be dangerous.  You should have a Lo---------ong handle on a wood lathe tool.

Thinking of your safety

Norman


----------



## gus

goldstar31 said:


> Gus
> You CAN make a rest out of a bit of round steel that fits the actual lathe tool holder.
> 
> That is Mark ONE but if the round bar is shaped like a Letter L you can do face plate turning as well. That is Mark TWO.
> 
> Hint- holding a short chisel is not the way to go.It can be dangerous.  You should have a Lo---------ong handle on a wood lathe tool.
> 
> Thinking of your safety
> 
> Norman




Hi Norman,
Thanks for the safety concern. Have no desire dying with minus fingers or hand.
Am getting a fair idea how long the tool and handle should. Did use the very short length carving tools and they did not stand to the shock. Will DIY my own Wood Turning Tool with longer handle bar for safety.
Will buy same tools from TokyuHands Nagoya, Japan.

Been fun doing wood turning


----------



## bazmak

Hi Gus,for rough turning you can make your own using Rct clamped on a long handle,With the tool rest up close this type of tip has little tendancy to dig in
I very rarely use REAL turning tools on chess sets.The RCT and abrasive paper
gets good results.Try it before you buy a proper set


----------



## bazmak

Just looking at your photo,the tool rest seems to be well away from the work
Should be as close as possible just like a bench grinder.My first knobs were 100mm dia for a wrdrobe i made.Made on the old orange box(see thread on chess sets)Now you have started it gets addictive.Next for you maybe a chess set.Whats the top speed on the lathe


----------



## gus

goldstar31 said:


> Gus
> You CAN make a rest out of a bit of round steel that fits the actual lathe tool holder.
> 
> That is Mark ONE but if the round bar is shaped like a Letter L you can do face plate turning as well. That is Mark TWO.
> 
> Hint- holding a short chisel is not the way to go.It can be dangerous.  You should have a Lo---------ong handle on a wood lathe tool.
> 
> Thinking of your safety
> 
> Norman



Hi Norman,

Just bought Wood Turning Tools from Axminster. Will have proper tools with sufficient length for personal safety.


----------



## gus

e Barry,Norman and others,

Thanks for the tips. You are right wood turning is addictive fun. Those two wood turng tools will the first and last and from here on will turn the handle bars and cutters will be made from Silver Steel.About to try out local hard wood. Handles for files,scrapers etc will all be DIYed . 
Will have to stop somewhere to start working on the Howell V-2 Crank case next week.


----------



## gus

Hi Barry n Norman.

After some real hands-on practice and goofs. Made 5 good knobs with Tropical Hard Wood aka Red Meranti.  It took six bad knobs made with Japanese BassWood which is very soft,easy to turn but hard to finish. The Red Meranti was easy to turn and finish. 1/2 '' and 1 '' flat chisels were used but a bit tricky.

Will make handle for DIY Roughing Tools. Flat Chisels are not best for roughing. Henceforth Aluminium Knobs are no longer the favorite and this because its so easy to turn hardwood. No pesky long aluminum swarfs to clear.


----------



## Swifty

I have turned wood before in the metal lathe, I clamped a round bar as a rest and ground the end of an old file to use as a hand turning tool, it was a long, very solid file with a good long handle fitted. Worked great.

Paul.


----------



## goldstar31

Swifty said:


> I have turned wood before in the metal lathe, I clamped a round bar as a rest and ground the end of an old file to use as a hand turning tool, it was a long, very solid file with a good long handle fitted. Worked great.
> 
> Paul.


See my comments on 191. Regarding files, there are two kinds. One type are case hardened and once they are ground,they are pretty useless. The older type are capable of being ground, once softened and retempered.


So Gus, if you live in a flat you might have problems with the heating etc.

Frankly, I'd settle for high speed steel but might I go back to early comments and repeat that you can use conventional lathe tools in the fixed tool holder.

So back to meranti, it isn't bad for handles. Probably the lazy way of getting handles is using wooden brush or broom handles. 

Gus, I think that we could both be upsetting others by prattling endlessly on about wood. :hDe:

Cheers

Norman


And for 'Two Ronnie' fans- 4 candles:wall:


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## gus

Swifty said:


> I have turned wood before in the metal lathe, I clamped a round bar as a rest and ground the end of an old file to use as a hand turning tool, it was a long, very solid file with a good long handle fitted. Worked great.
> 
> Paul.




Hi Paul,   
Good Idea. Looks like the U.K. Turning Tools will be left untouched when they arrive.Will keep for show piece.
I have some cheapy M.I.C. Files. Will grind and heat treat with the one/two/three barrel Mapp Gas Torch to Cherry Red at night and quench in water and temper between green and blue. Believe this will be 1 -2-3  seen with the local smithy hardening and tempering electric concrete chisels.Gus no expert but just reading and quoting Tubal Cain's Heat Treating Book.
W/o an electric furnace,it will be eye ball temperature gaging/guessing.Have done my fair share with Ingersoll-Rand,Singapore Plant hardening punches and roll forming tools for pressure vessels.


Quite happy with the 5 Red Merantic Hardwood Knobs. Was fun. All five fixed on to Tool Cabinets.


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## Tin Falcon

I used to turn pen blanks in my metal lathe just used regular lathe bits in the tool holder. 
for what gus is doing should work fine. 
Tin


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## gus

Tin Falcon said:


> I used to turn pen blanks in my metal lathe just used regular lathe bits in the tool holder.
> for what gus is doing should work fine.
> Tin



Hi Tin.

Found the knob face length bit long,used HSS to trim wee bit off. Gave me a smooth grainy finish. Will try turning three more pieces with HSS bit.
The material is local hardwood--------Red Meranti. 

Now admiring the knobs on my first ToolMaker's Chest.

How's the weather over there??? Here the N.E.Monsoon has yet to die down.January still a wet month and fishing not best. February forecasted as dry month and fishing good.

Take Care.( Now studying the Howell V-2 Prints)


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## bazmak

Red Meranti is not ideal turning timber Gus.Turns like cast iron,dusty.
Difficult to get a good finish with turning tool.Advise-rough turn oversize
and bring down with various grades of abrasive paper.Will polish to mirror finish with fine grit 240+.Small sections of teak are ideal if you can get them


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## goldstar31

I have -somewhere- clear acrylic varnish which will soak in to mahogany like timbers such as red meranti.
It will raise the grain- because the mahoganies are cross grained timbers. Once the narnish is dead hard, remove the raised grain with fine steel wool or fine paper and recoat-- and so on.

If you were boatbuilding and creating 'bright work' you would do exactly this. Yachtvarnish, sand down, yacht varnish and so on-- until it reflects your face.

OK, there are other techniques but what I have written about will be exactly what you will get from sticking your hands in your pockets and asking anyone in a boat builders yard.

I used to use Borneo red seraya for kayak building-- when it wasn't going on to deck whale factory ships.
I even used dunnage!

Bluntly, I used to make the varnishes and marine paints.

Here's a question. How do you think that old coach builders built Rolls Royces?


Cheers

Norman


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## Tin Falcon

A bit chilly here -3c at the moment supposed to get colder tomorrow then warm up later in the week. Reminds me I need to get the black walnut in and drying so I can do something with it. Had a tree in my front yard planted by a squirrel. The Neighbor kids killed it. Had t take it down  small about 8-10 diameter. 
Tin


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## gus

Tin Falcon said:


> A bit chilly here -3c at the moment supposed to get colder tomorrow then warm up later in the week. Reminds me I need to get the black walnut in and drying so I can do something with it. Had a tree in my front yard planted by a squirrel. The Neighbor kids killed it. Had t take it down  small about 8-10 diameter.
> Tin




I love walnuts. The say its good for eye sight. 

Went out Satruday 10 Jan. Lost a 20 pounder Ray. When you use 15 lb old line and a bad knot,what will go wrong will. Ha Ha.
Sunday,we went out landed another ray. Ray cooked in Sour Curry is really good eating. Ray used to sell for S$2 per lb and today its S$16. Too much rain and all the Snappers ran away.


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## goldstar31

gus said:


> I love walnuts. The say its good for eye sight.
> 
> .


 

Actually they are wonderful 'tools' BMW used to use them to polish parts of their cars.

No idea now, I'm a Mercedes and Audi( Vor sprung dung) man.Never really liked Beemers- used have the headlining as part of the roof re-inforcement.:wall:. The day I survived a 50 feet verical fall and 5 somersaults into a frozen river 500 yards away in a Merc- 2 in a BMW which had only gone half all that-died. Life is like that. Survival sharpens one's outlook!

Norman


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## gus

Wood Turning Tools from Axminter,UK. Thought of doing my best in wood turning,bought tools from UK. I am going ''professional''. Had no idea they come such length--------18". Plenty of wares to turn---------drawer/door knobs, file handles etc. From here all future tools will be DIYed using HSS or Silver Steel.


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## goldstar31

Morning Gus- from somewhere that is being 'going to be colder than Everest' According to the Media!

Regarding the turning tools, 18" isn't long. A good turning tool might be longer than the length of your hand, forearm and the space between the work and the hand. The longer the tool, the safer it is.

Really, you are entering the world of the bodger and his pole lathe. It's not a forgotten craft because there are lots of turners in wood and stone. It simply isn't here. People stand at machines and think that they are 'pros' and they have to get someone to sharpen their tools or go out and buy needless carbide things.

We are- after all- using ancient equipment despite the fact that it all comes bright and shiny from somewhere.

Meanwhile, back to Life in the Freezer

Norman


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## gus

goldstar31 said:


> Morning Gus- from somewhere that is being 'going to be colder than Everest' According to the Media!
> 
> Regarding the turning tools, 18" isn't long. A good turning tool might be longer than the length of your hand, forearm and the space between the work and the hand. The longer the tool, the safer it is.
> 
> Really, you are entering the world of the bodger and his pole lathe. It's not a forgotten craft because there are lots of turners in wood and stone. It simply isn't here. People stand at machines and think that they are 'pros' and they have to get someone to sharpen their tools or go out and buy needless carbide things.
> 
> We are- after all- using ancient equipment despite the fact that it all comes bright and shiny from somewhere.
> 
> Meanwhile, back to Life in the Freezer
> 
> Norman



Hi Norman,

No worries. Spring is around the corner and summer not too faraway.

Fishing,last weekend was bad ------------one small 1/2 pounder which went back to mama. However, this coming weekend looks good.


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## bazmak

Hi Gus, my only concern for your newfound proffession would be lack of space
and wooden swarfe.I sometimes went on to the the empty block next door,
but reducing 160 mm sq timber to a chess piece did create a lot of chips
Goldstar mentioned (varnish).I turn softwood down to near size and then put on a coat of clear sealer.This hardens the wood and stops the grain rising.
Against what Henry says i then use Sandpaper for a good finish


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## gus

bazmak said:


> Hi Gus, my only concern for your newfound proffession would be lack of space
> and wooden swarfe.I sometimes went on to the the empty block next door,
> but reducing 160 mm sq timber to a chess piece did create a lot of chips
> Goldstar mentioned (varnish).I turn softwood down to near size and then put on a coat of clear sealer.This hardens the wood and stops the grain rising.
> Against what Henry says i then use Sandpaper for a good finish




Hi Barry,

True. Wood turning creates more swarfs than metal. After turning 6 Meranti Knobs, had a dust bin full to clear up. Ha Ha.:rant:
Suspect it was was ''Balau'' more likely than Red Meranti. Balau is denser.Will confirm with supplier. Was 55 years since I worked on local hardwood and hence no longer familiar. Meranti,Seraya,Chengai,Teak,Kapor,Damar etc.


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## gus

Hi Barry,

Next project will be no wood turning but wood bashing. Bought Electronic Kit to make a TachoMeter and this means I need a case to hold same. Will try out Tacho and post. Take care with the summer heat. My two Greek grandchildren about to burnt black like the Ozzie Abos.They love outdoors. P.S. I am tempted to turn two pieces------'' Knight''.


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## bazmak

Hi Gus.meranti belongs to the mahogany family of hardwoods.A dozen or so fro south America to Asia and Africa.Sapele and Ilco are 2 im familiar with
Dificult to get a good turmed finish but polishes up nice with Sandpaper
Try my suggestions for the next box mitre corners.Should note a big difference


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## gus

Hi Barry,
Next month in Nagoya,Japan. TokyuHands have some very hard wood. They have a woodworking and turning section. Will buy some hard wood bars.  Will be suffering wood-swarf-phobia. Bought dust mask to prevent breathing in wood dust. Also look around locally for teak wood too.


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