# Bazmak-A Model Horizontal Shaper



## bazmak (Mar 28, 2016)

From my V block thread I spent a week using the horizontal shaper and have always admired them even though they are obsolete and have limited use.
Tubal Cain has done an interesting refurb on Utube, on one he was given but alas a little too large for me.This weeks ME mag starts an interesting post by Phillipp Bannik with a build start on a fully working benchtop model.A bit small But-
The body or column is fabricated from 4 pieces of 10thk plt 65w x 98dp x 88h
multiply x a factor of 1.5 and we could use a piece of thk wall RHS
100mm x 150mm x 140mm high.Working as a base this would produce
a possible nice working model.May make a start even though I only have a few details as yet.Redesign as we go and we will see.Hope to make a start soon


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## bazmak (Apr 3, 2016)

Well I have made a start.Photos show progress but I don't have a lot of info at the moment.The article is in alternative mags which come out fortnightly
so it will be a month befare I get any more info.I have a photo of the finished model and a small cad GA that I can scale off some dims,and the sizes of the body sideplts for the fasbricted unit.However I went with my first thoughts
and used RHS and scaled up x a factor of 1.5. Time w

ill tell


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## bazmak (Apr 5, 2016)

For the ram I need a section of steel 75mm x 50mm but not available
so I had to buy 2 off 75 x 25 mm and bolt together.I made and fitted
thin brass gibs to both side to enable brass on steel rather steel/steel
Kept it to 2thou clearance as thin gibbs are not good with lots of play 
taken up with the gib screws.Strips are tabbed around the ends to help
retain.All in all works really well.


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## bazmak (Apr 8, 2016)

I made some more progress.I finished a little more detailing to the ram
Then I made and fitted the Z axis feedscrew.The author had limited room 
so went for a worm/wheel.A little too complicated for me.I had more space
so went for a simple knurled feednut,making space by recessing the o/dia 
into the main body.It works well so far,i simply used all thread for now
but later will make a more accurate feedscrew.Once the main unit is all sorted
then I will improve/finalise details.Working blind at the moment ,I am waiting for the next issue for more details.Dims have been scaled from the small scale GA.so leaving the more complicated details for later


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## Naiveambition (Apr 8, 2016)

I really like this so far. What are the approximate sizes when u will be finished


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## bazmak (Apr 11, 2016)

Next I made the clapper box.I am waiting for the 2nd issue of ME for more info and dims so I am working from the photo.Where I am unsure of dims I have left some items long and screws etc are temporary.ie I intend to make the tool
clamping screw a SQ hd.Also the feedscrew looks small at M6 so I have allowed to increase to M8.Both feed screws will be made from s/s or brass and the thread cut with a die.All in all looking good so far.Next I think will be the horizontal feedscrew and table


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## stevehuckss396 (Apr 11, 2016)

Really cool, thanks for posting.


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## canadianhorsepower (Apr 11, 2016)

I love this
set up are plans available somewhere.
or can you share them

simply love it Thm:Thm:Thm:


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## bazmak (Apr 11, 2016)

The plans are in model engineer mag First post was in no 4525 and the next should be in 4527.I don't have much info at the moment so what I have made is from a photo and scaling from a small scale GA Will post more info as things become more clear


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## bazmak (Apr 19, 2016)

I made the lever drive and pivot shaft.Author shows fixed shaft wit brass bush
to lever arm.I fitted 2 brass bushes to body and fixed arm to shaft
Slotted top plate.Made the horizontal dovetail assembly.Author shows half dove tail to bottom and rebate/gib plt to top.I decided to rebate both top and bottom.Will oversail the CI table to form gib plt and 2 screws at the front for minor adjustment with brass angle gib at the bottom.No drawings all in my head at the moment.Photos tell the story.Will start building up 

the table next


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## bazmak (Apr 22, 2016)

I received issued 2 of Model Eng mag but nothing new as I am so far ahead
All my design and dim changes have so far worked out well with no problems
Next job was to fabricate the table.I started with a base of 50x8 angle x 70mm lg.Fabricated the top from cast iron with a lip to form the top tenon.A brass gib was made to form the bottom tenon,with nom 2 thou clearance and adjustment
allowed for a couple of thou.All made and fitted,works and looks well so far
Because I made the body in one piece I will now have to think carefully
for access and assembly but cant see any major o

bstacles. TBC


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## ICEpeter (Apr 22, 2016)

Bazmak,
I like your post but have a problem reading it. It displays the post contents sideways and not in a vertical sequence. Don't know why that is happening.

Peter J.


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## goldstar31 (Apr 22, 2016)

Looks like my old Drummond shaper. Nice!

Regards

Norman


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## bazmak (Apr 22, 2016)

Must be a problem at your end Peter.I don't think anyone else has the problem
or they would have said.I don't know much about computers perhaps 
somebody else can comment


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## goldstar31 (Apr 23, 2016)

FWIW, I'm getting things fine. We seem to have experienced  two problems recently. One lies at the feet of Admin whilst the other is poor old Gus being hacked and some of us becoming involved.

We have a nice hobby that is becoming rather stressful.

Norman


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 23, 2016)

Tell me more about Gus getting hacked. I got two strange emails from him with attachments I was supposed to click on, but they looked suspicious so I deleted them.---Brian


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## bazmak (Apr 24, 2016)

My best option to get access for assy was thru the u,side so I machined out the base plt.I finished the lever arm.The author used a brass sliding block at the top but I decided to use a couple of roller brgs.Milled out the top plt and the ram.Made and fitted a pin 6mm dia captured with 2 E clips.Need to mill additional clearance to a couple of areas but apart from that it works well


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## bazmak (Apr 24, 2016)




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## goldstar31 (Apr 24, 2016)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Tell me more about Gus getting hacked. I got two strange emails from him with attachments I was supposed to click on, but they looked suspicious so I deleted them.---Brian


I seemed to first to receive a strange e-mail supposed to be from Gus.
Sensibly, I raised an alarm and found others receiving similar sort of stuff.

What I guess has happened is that poor old Gus has tried to send something from some scruffy port on his travels and some toe rag has intercepted.
It has happened to me and I now have a very strange e-mail address which is a mixture of Spanish and French patois:hDe:

Meantime, might I ask Barry to forgive me for using his excellent post to help alert others?

Carry on, Barry. Thanks

Norman


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 24, 2016)

goldstar31 said:


> I seemed to first to receive a strange e-mail supposed to be from Gus.
> Sensibly, I raised an alarm and found others receiving similar sort of stuff.
> 
> What I guess has happened is that poor old Gus has tried to send something from some scruffy port on his travels and some toe rag has intercepted.
> ...


Norman--Beware!!--If the virus changed your email address, it has very probably infected your computer and is now happily sending out more virus laden emails to everybody in your email address book.


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## goldstar31 (Apr 24, 2016)

This PM- unable to post.

Why?

N

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Despite running Norton was unable to post. 5 attempts to reply to Brian to Thank him.

Running further scans

N


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## bazmak (Apr 29, 2016)

More progress.The author calls for a 44t and a 16t gear.Multiply x 1.5 and we arrive at 66t and 24t.A 2.7 ratio.I rummaged thru my spare changegears
from my old lathe.I had a 65t that was physically close enough but the smallest
I had was 30t Will have to do A ratio of 2.1 but not important unless I fit a motor.I then built up the gear linkage/eccentric to suit what I had and my dims
No problems as yet.Waiting for the last issue of ME to finalise the feed etc
I plan to fit ball bearings to both gear shafts but for the present they fit in drilled holes


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## bazmak (May 1, 2016)

With the linkage set to max stroke,i shortened a couple of shafts,
lengthened a couple of slots.Skimmed a few parts and nudged a few parts
for clearance etc.Assembled and reassembled a no of times which trained me for the easiest way to assemble and believe me it was close in a few places
I fitted  a chinese metal handwheel to the ram drive shaft and played about until it turned over nicely.This is when I found out that the max strokeinstead of being 65mm was 90mm.I set the linkage back to give a stroke of 60mm
and then milled some clearance to allow the clapper box to go back as far as possible and increased the stroke to 75/80mm which will be the max and cover the full width of the table.The ram stroke is adjustable for length but has no 
adjustment for position.However all is well that ends well as the stroke is nicely located from one edge of the table to the other.Next I will fit some bushes /bearings and make brass locknuts to fix the gearshaft assy laterally in the correct position and tidy up a few other things.Will have to wait for the final issue of ME mag to finish the feed mechanism etc.May also start adding some bling and paint and polish etc a few areas. TBC


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## bazmak (May 5, 2016)

We have liftoff and separation.With a temporary handwheel and then hooked up to the lathe.Now for some fitting of slides and fine tuning.Then I need the final part of the ME mag to finish the autofeed etc


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2016)

Bazmac--You have created a beautiful thing. I have been watching as this develops, and I am very impressed.---Brian Rupnow


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## bazmak (May 7, 2016)

thank you Brian, I will repost the videos as I seem to have lost them
busy now fitting slides etc lot of labour with not much to show waiting for details of autofeed now


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## bazmak (May 10, 2016)

I have made a vice for the shaper.To make one proportional to the table
would be too small and not much use so I made one as big as possible
60mm wide x 25mm high and opens to 40mm.Robust and accurate to be used as a small drill vice and possibly fix to my rotary table.Works and looks good
but will need a tidy up later


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## BaronJ (May 10, 2016)

Very nice work !  I'm watching with great interest.

I only have one criticism, and that may be premature,  I think that the lock nuts on the cross feed shaft spoil the overall appearance.


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## bazmak (May 10, 2016)

Thank you for your comments.The cross feed shaft assembly is temporary
until I finalise the autofeed.I will be making a new feed screw,i have already bushed one end and will probably retain with an E clip.The 8mm allthread will be replaced with a machined screw probably s/s. When the unit is finished and running I am hoping to take this model to exhibition standard Regards Barry


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## bazmak (May 11, 2016)

I drilled and tapped 2 no M3 holes in the front and fitted grubscrews
these push against the angle and allow a few thou of adjustment to the top tenon,the bottom tenon has a few thou of adjust for the lower brass tenon
on the clearance holes for the clamping screws
Cleaned up and adjusted for a good sliding fit. A little car body filler to produce the gusset fillets,a first coat of paint and it looks almost like

 a casting


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## bazmak (May 14, 2016)

I finished the vice by cleaning up all faces,making a handle for the screw,
fitting a brass llocating screw and making 4 T nuts before fitting to the table
I had to rework the vertical feed screw for ease of assembly before bolting the base to the body permanently A little car body filler to form a fillet and the first coat of paint to a few parts.I received the latest issue of ME but alas the last article has been postponed to the next issue so cannot as yet finish the autofeed,slowing me down but not finished as yet TBC


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## bazmak (May 16, 2016)

I realized that the vice was good enough to be used for real work,
not just for the model shaper.I made a mounting plate and fitted it
to my rotary table.Only time will tell


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## bazmak (May 20, 2016)

I fitted the ways and remade a couple of bushes to a bet tolerance
Made and fitted a ram travel indicator from a piece of ols steel rule
Then turning over by hand I made a few chips.Now I really am waiting
for the last instalment of ME


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## Brian Rupnow (May 20, 2016)

That is just beautiful.---Brian


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## bazmak (May 27, 2016)

Well the 3rd part of the ME mag arrived but a bit of a disappointment
Still another part to finish the exercise.Lots of details but most have been made or are not applicable.Some details of the ratchet feed but no arrangement details and most of the dims can be ignored.I proceeded to make a start using the general principles and dims to suit what I have made
I decided to build up the existing M8 allthread feedscrew I have made and when all details are proved I can remake if requiredI turned down the left hand end,fitted 2 brass bushes and fitted a M6 nyloc nut.I turned down a piece of brass to form bush=spacer=spline=bearing assembly and drilled and tapped M8.This screws on to the feedscrew and is pinned in the corre

ct position


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## gus (May 30, 2016)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Tell me more about Gus getting hacked. I got two strange emails from him with attachments I was supposed to click on, but they looked suspicious so I deleted them.---Brian




Hi Brian,

Its true I have been hacked. Over here so far so good. McAfee is doing cleanup regularly and no threat.

I receieved mails for urgent requests for money transfer thru Best Western.


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## bazmak (May 31, 2016)

Made and fitted the rachet lever arm and the ratchet Pawl
Cleaned up and bushed the old mini handwheel
Proceeding with the rest now I understand how it all works
It will all be finished before I get the last issue of ME


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## bazmak (Jun 1, 2016)

I finished the rest of the autofeed including eccentric table,T nut bushes and linkage.Fitted and played about with the timeing to get a nice feed in the correct location.Now need sme minor adjustments and make a video,hopefully
making chips.The primary drive shaft needs reducing in length and a driv
pulley making but for now I am leaving as is with the handwheel connected
its very hand for turning over the unit.Now to think of a powehttp://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u664/bazmak47/feed%2006_zpsv5rmmi0i.jpgr unit


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## gus (Jun 2, 2016)

Hi Bazmak,

Beautiful Shaper and it shapes too. Dreaming of building one too. Please advice HxLxW and plan source.


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## bazmak (Jun 2, 2016)

Hi Gus,i made it basically to plans in model engineer but scaled up x 1.5
Some details are mine and simplified.I would like to make the plans available if there is enough interest,BUT,although all my working life as a draftsman I cannot use autocad.I would be prepared to put pencil to paper and scan up sketchs etc if someone would volunteer to convert to computer drgs,details etc and arrangements and make available to anyone.Any offers please post
We could make it a team build/draw ????


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## bazmak (Jun 2, 2016)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uSVno9DQn80" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
I have made a video bit ameateurist and long and struggled to upload to photobucket so went to Utube.Hope it works


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## bazmak (Jun 2, 2016)

I have uploaded a video to Utube How do I uplift to hmem thread ????


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 2, 2016)

Okay Baz--I volunteer. send the stuff you need done on cad to brupnowATrogers.com and I will do them up as .dwg (Autocad) and as .pdf files so anybody without cad can open them.---Brian Rupnow


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## GailInNM (Jun 2, 2016)

You only need part of what you posted.  I wrapped code flags agound the following so you can see it without executing it.  If you you click "share" under the video  it will put this part in a box and depending on what browser you are using it may copy it to your clip board so you can paste it. Thwn paste this into your post.
Gail in NM 

```
<iframe width="560" height="315"  src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uSVno9DQn80" frameborder="0"  allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://www.youtube.com/embed/uSVno9DQn80
```
And the result is:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/uSVno9DQn80


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## GailInNM (Jun 2, 2016)

You only need part of what you posted.  I wrapped code flags agound the following so you can see it without executing it.  If you you click "share" under the video  it will put this part in a box and depending on what browser you are using it may copy it to your clip board so you can paste it. Thwn paste this into your post.
Gail in NM 

```
<iframe width="560" height="315"  src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uSVno9DQn80" frameborder="0"  allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://www.youtube.com/embed/uSVno9DQn80
```
And the result is:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/uSVno9DQn80


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 2, 2016)

Very interesting. That adjustable eccentric and ratchet and pawl feed is the same system I used on the carriage advance for the model sawmill I built a few years ago.---Brian


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## bazmak (Jun 2, 2016)

Thank you Gail the video is now up hope I can do it myself next time
Thank you Brian,i will make a start with details and a build sequence
It will take time so will do it in batches if anyone wants to make a start
it will be helpful.Will email some sketches in the next few days and we can try to make your usual professional job of it.Yes the pawl and rachet is nice and simple,as used by the author but to a better scale.Any suggestions on a drive source,i would like a small motor that could be mounted local.I have seen references to stepper motors will google and investigate.Would like to fit a pulley to the driveshaft and leave a small extension to fit and remove the the large handwheel for ease of turning over


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## gus (Jun 3, 2016)

bazmak said:


> Hi Gus,i made it basically to plans in model engineer but scaled up x 1.5
> Some details are mine and simplified.I would like to make the plans available if there is enough interest,BUT,although all my working life as a draftsman I cannot use autocad.I would be prepared to put pencil to paper and scan up sketchs etc if someone would volunteer to convert to computer drgs,details etc and arrangements and make available to anyone.Any offers please post
> We could make it a team build/draw ????




Hi Baz,

I did manual drafting for 11 years. Was supposed to pickup CAD. Never did. I was promoted and went into another dept doing something else but drafting.
But I plan to. TurboCad was disappointing. Somehow Genuine CAD is cheaper across the border in Malaysia. Not pirated.

After the Howell V-2, its no more engines for 12 months. Have a long list of tools to DIY. 

Take Care.


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## bazmak (Jun 3, 2016)

sme here Gus,i retired early and didn't want the long learning curve
as I struggled with computers anyway.Would have liked to but 
decided it wasn't worth the effort


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 3, 2016)

I got this far and realized a few things. the slot in the top plate which you dimensioned as being 165 mm long can not possibly be that long---please send corrected slot length. One of the holes in the right side body has no pattern of threaded holes shown around it, and neither of the holes on the left side of the body has a pattern of threaded holes around it. Is this really so or should they have tapped hole patterns around all three holes. The "cut out" at the bottom of the rectangular tube has no dimensions on it so I just showed a "best guess" sized "cut out" I need the correct dimensions for that "cut out" ---And finally, many of the dimensions on the bottom plate were "cut off" on the drawing you sent me. Please resend the detail of that bottom plate.---Brian


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## Gonzo007 (Jun 3, 2016)

Very Impressive.  I will have to keep a look out for the plans.

Colin


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## Blogwitch (Jun 3, 2016)

A lovely piece of work there Baz, it is always refreshing to see something being made that can be used rather than just looked at.

I was given a brand new good quality MIG welder a few years ago. I am very proficient (or used to be) at gas and stick welding (unfortunately, gave them away many years ago), but can't seem to get good results with the MIG.
I have a few things like yours to construct, but until I can get this welding under my belt, I will just have to sit back and drool over wonderful constructions such as yours.

John


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## bazmak (Jun 3, 2016)

Hi John,i served my time as a welder/sheetmetal worker but never used mig
until I was a lot older and then only at industrial level.I am now only a competent welder and find the small home stick welder adequate for most things.Unless you are doing a lot of welding then mig at home can be too complicated particular the finicky equipment/gas etc


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## bazmak (Jun 3, 2016)

H Brian,glad to see your on the ball that's why I sent some details immediately so we can sort out potential problems early.The scanned image cuts off the edges and I tried to send too much info on one page will try to rectify next time
Please use the photos in the thread to help clarify things.Will send the missing dims.Meanwhile to answer your questions
1-The top slot is 110mm the o/a plt length is 165mm
2-Lh side 16dia no fixings(fit bush and E clip)
3-Rh side 12dia with fixings for brg housing
4- 16dia both sides for lever no fixings (fit bushes and E clips)
5-Cutout shown as 25w x 20h to front view
Will send rescan of page edges for missing dims
I am trying to measure items and avoid stripping the unit down as yet
as I am making adjustments and a maybe a better video
I will send details hopefully in the order I made them refer photos and thread
Note the sq tapped insert are only welded to the top not the bottom
6 fixings to top and 4 to bottom.Regards Barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 4, 2016)

Barry--Here is a redo of the assembly --I have corrected the slot in the top plate to be 110 mm long. I have removed the square blocks from the bottom of the rectangular tube main body. I have changed the cut-out in the front of the rectangular tube to 25 wide x 20 high. I still don`t have the information on the bottom plate thickness nor overall length, the location and size of the countersunk hole, nor the four thru holes in the baseplate that anchor it to the tabletop. The new scans you sent me are still cutting that info off the bottom plate, and I don`t think you have a thickness anywhere on the drawing. I will work later this weekend on the other parts you sent me.---Brian---EDIT--Baseplate updated


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## bazmak (Jun 4, 2016)

Hi Brian, to the right says bottom plt 10 thk,250x120mm.The 4 tapped holes are typ 15mm from all 4 edges and can be m6/8 to suit feet.Dont know how much is cut off at your end.Your GA shows the bseplt needs turning around
the longer end to the front. regards barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 4, 2016)

Do you want the shaper to be detailed as being machined from one solid piece or a built-up assembly from 3 separate pieces. If you want the dovetail to be cut from a separate piece and bolted in place, you have to give me locations for the M6 `dovetail fixings` and how do you attach that 58 mm dia. round piece on the end. Also, what diameter is the cross-hole that runs thru the slot. There is no way to machine a slot as shown on your sketch.


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## bazmak (Jun 4, 2016)

Hi Brian,i think it is better to assume we make in 3 pieces and bolt together
Please read the thread on making the ram.The items are bolted together
and the end diameter is turned in the lathe The slot can be milled thru the dovetail plt and the lower and upper sections separately Will do some more details and keep them smaller and simpler.Will also start a parts list to be
improved/ongoing


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 5, 2016)

This is the ram as built by Barry, built up from 3 pieces bolted together.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 5, 2016)

And these are a few miscellaneous bits Barry has sent me.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 5, 2016)

And a couple more--


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 5, 2016)

And---a shaper lever arm--


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 5, 2016)

MORE-PARTS--


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## bazmak (Jun 5, 2016)

Magic,do you have all missing dims?
As I mentioned before the photos in the thread replace a thousand words
When Brian and I have finished all the drawings I hope to do a build log/description as to why and how .If anyone plans to make one it can still
be improved upon


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 5, 2016)

I'm getting there. At the moment I'm a bit uncertain of just where those blue and yellow shafts go, but I'm sure I'll figure it out.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 5, 2016)

On the sketch you sent me of this part, item #10, you show 7 holes that appear to be both counterbored and threaded for the bolts which bear against the brass gibs. There is no info on the sketch about size, dimensions, or threads on these four holes. Can you please add that info and resend that sketch.---Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 6, 2016)

So far, so good.--What kind of bushings are between that 6 mm yellow shaft with the two bearings on it and the rectangular tube? Where does the blue shaft go ---it is 6 mm diameter x 55 mm long.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 6, 2016)

Barry---We are going to have to find somebody to "proof" all the drawings I create, by building one of these after I get the drawings finished. I don't really care where they are in the world, but they are going to have to be experienced machinists, who are comfortable working in metric. This is not a project for "New-bees". Another very important factor in any drawings I make, is that the orthographic views will be in "Third angle projection" as is common practice in North America.---Not in "First angle projection" as is common to Europe. The sketches which you sent me are all in "First angle projection" and I had a difficult time reading them.----Brian


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## bazmak (Jun 6, 2016)

Hi Brian,most of these parts I designed/made with hardly any drawings
just as you do with your engines.I do not class myself as a top class eng/machinist and find it easy to understand simply because I have made it and assembled it many times just as you have.I believe there are are people out there who want to make one.I planned to get from you a full set of drawings and go thru them for any major ommisions/problems and also make a comprehensive build sequence/description and bolt list etc.The drawings as yet are for your cad drgs not for production as they do not have any tolerances
My general practice was to drill a hole and make the male part to fit most of the parts fit together as suck it and see.I don't think that all the details could be made as drawn and then assemble together.Its trial and error and build as you go.There are parts already that I see as being improved upon
1-iterm 7 goes thru the ram with 2 roller brgs trapped in the central slot
see photos in thread
2- the 6 x55mmpin is a light push fit thru the clapper box for item 16 to pivot
As I said the details are grouped with the items they assemble to and drawn 1st or 3rd angle to indicate there location
Keep going Brian we will get there,and the best part is you will be as expert as me


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## dalem9 (Jun 6, 2016)

That is so nice , a great job .


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 6, 2016)

Actually, Barry,--I completely design my engines and create detail drawings before I ever switch on a machine. I wouldn't even try any other way. It's all a matter of how you got to where you are now. I had 46 years of design experience before I ever owned a lathe or a mill.---Brian


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## bazmak (Jun 7, 2016)

I went the other way with this.Very few drgs and dims so I am finding it difficult
 to detail and dim,to make it easier for you.But I think we are getting there
Are you using 2 or 3D ?.Do you detail all the items and then assemble them in a GA.Orthographic or can you rotate to find problems.Its more simple to call a 16dia hole and fit a 16 dia shaft for you to draw but at some stage I will
have to add limits and fits etc and a build description.However I think you are underestimating the skill of the majority of model engs out there.Apart from a newby I think most will be able to build from our info and probably improve
it somewhat.Can you email me a sample detail and part ga so I have an idea
of what else may be required.Further details emailed next


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 7, 2016)

Barry--the way it works is that I use your sketch information to input the math data and create the 3D part. When I then pull the modelled part onto a detail sheet, the drawing views are created automatically, and the dimensions are drawn from the math data I used when creating the part models. I choose where the dimension lines go, but the software supplies the actual dimension that fits inside the dimension lines. I use 3D, but the way 3D works is that I first do a 2D sketch of a part using all of the math data from your sketches to fully define the part. Then I extrude the part into the third dimension to get the "depth" of the part. I don't add any fits or tolerances when designing at the part level. I create a 16 mm shaft to fit into a 16 mm hole. Tolerances get added at my discretion when the dimensions are added to the detail sheet. Tolerances are not an automated function. I add them manually.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 7, 2016)

Barry---I need the part numbers for all the items on the clapper box drawing. Also you reference part #16 in your written notes, and I don't know which part that is.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 7, 2016)

Barry--I think there may be something wrong with the sketch of it#20--the leg that you have dimensioned as 21.5 long is sticking down into the part below it as can be seen in this cross section.


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## bazmak (Jun 7, 2016)

Hi Brian, the 21.5x11wx5.5w leg goes to the front and the 17.5 x5.5w leg to the back
try turning the table top round 180o Shown on item 22 drg
item 16 is the 40x30x12 flat that lifts on the return stroke
Will send the revised sketchs with the next batch.Almost there about 75% complete.You sent me a private message how do I get to it. got the PM Regards barry


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## gus (Jun 7, 2016)

Hi Baz,

Gus would like to be the first customer to buy your shaper drawings. Was trained to use shaper in Trade School. Much as I like,I have no room for a full size shaper. Would be great to build this mini shaper.


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## bazmak (Jun 8, 2016)

Most of the drgs are done.When ready hopefully Brian will be able to upload
to HMEM.Free download I cant wait for someone to make it.Would like to add a build description as to why I did what and hopefully some improvements
Just got the last inst. of the mag Nothing new so I did well changing all dims and a lot of design/details without problems.Hopefully someone will make a quick start and we can keep this thread going.The unit is stripped down at the moment for me to measure and sketch parts.Brian is doing a computer drg
I found it rather easy to make without drgs etc and its a nice project.As soon as I finish the drgs I will rebuild it and adjust a few things before making a better video of some useful work. Will keep you posted Regards barry


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## canadianhorsepower (Jun 8, 2016)

Hi Bazmack
 when your plans are all done I'm a customer
thanks to you and Brian  for the work done

cheers


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## bazmak (Jun 9, 2016)

Thank you Brian,i downloaded the software and had a quick look at work in progress thru your eyes. Absolute magic will have to start exploring,do you think its too late for me to learn?? More drgs emailed almost finished the we can tidy up any loose ends. Regards barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 9, 2016)

It is never to late to learn.--but--You really need to have a good reason. My software is outrageously priced, starting at over $7000 Canadian. For me it is a legitimate business expense, but it is far too expensive for a hobby machinist. There are cheaper versions of 3d software available, but I don't know anything about them. I have received the latest batch of drawings, and will be working on them.--I need a bit more information about your two gears so I can download them from a website I use. Are they a "mod" gear?---If so, what number? ----I am used to Imperial based gears, which go by pitch number, but have little experience with "mod" gears.---I am sure that there must be a number for your gears which refers to the size of the teeth. ---Brian


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## bazmak (Jun 9, 2016)

Hi Brian,dont know what the gears are its not important as long as they are the same.The author gave nom od and no teeth.T picked 2 gears I had in a box
spare from my small sieg lathe change gear set.As long as they are both the same and mesh together the mod no is not critical but I assume it can be worked out from no of teeth and od.The important part was to have the large gear at nom 65/66t and od about 67mm.The small gear should have been about 24 t but the smallest I had was 30t,so I just adjusted the centres by meshing and measuring.The large gear is important at nom67od but the small gear can be anything.As I said in the thread I just used what I had.About to finish the last details then we can sort out any minor problems.Just found out how to rotate the drw,MAGIC.Can items be hidden to allow you to look inside??
One thought I had was that if I fit a motor the speed will be too fast but there is room to fit a lay shaft and additional gears  Regards barry


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## Herbiev (Jun 9, 2016)

A windscreen wiper motor from auto wreckers has plenty of grunt and doesnt go too fast.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 9, 2016)

Right click on any component. This brings up a sub menu allowing you to hide the part, or hide all of the other parts or make the part transparent. down in the lower left corner of the screen there is an icon named "animate". Left click that and see what happens!! Also, try the "explode" icon. You probably have figured out by now how to use the "rotate" icon. It doesn't matter what you do, you won't erase anything. Down in the extreme bottom left there is an icon that looks like a little house named "reset". Click that at any time and everything will be restored to what it looked like when you first opened the assembly. In the extreme lower right you will see an icon named "components' Click on that to see the name of all your components in a list. while the list is open, left click any component on the screen and it will highlight the name of that part on the list. Since I have the "real" Solidworks software, I seldom use the e-drawings viewer, so it probably does many other tricks I don't know about. Edrawings viewer will also open 2 dimensional AutoCAD drawing files which have a .dwg or .dxf suffix on the file name.---Brian


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## bazmak (Jun 9, 2016)

Good idea Herbie,will give that a try.12v ?? transformer
Thank you Brian for your input.I am about to post the final details
then hopefully a snagging list from you and we are ready to go
We already have 2 customers so hopefully will keep this thread going
and maybe add improvements.I am thinking about a build description
maybe in the form of a thread with photos and more description than what I already have.Maybe a team build??


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## 10K Pete (Jun 9, 2016)

I've been following this shaper build and I think I would be very much 
interested in building one. I've always wanted a shaper but could never
come up the with space or funds. Building a small one, even on twice the
size as you've build Baz would seem to be possible. I'll be following right
along...

Pete


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## bazmak (Jun 9, 2016)

Twice the size,hmmmm seems like a good idea,will give it some thought


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## 10K Pete (Jun 10, 2016)

I don't think it would to too hard to build a scaled up version. Have to pay
attention to the strengths of the monkey motion parts. A 2x might be too
large actually, I'm starting to think 1.5x. I dunno.

I really want to see what you've done for the cross-head and bull gear and
Brian will have all that shortly I suspect.

Building one is a very tempting idea.....

Pete


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## bazmak (Jun 10, 2016)

Going twice size will give a body of 200 x 300 rhs x about 280 h
I'm thinking of machining capacity in the my Sx2 mill and sc4 lathe might just get the body height in the mill but the ram would be nom 150sg x 400lg
Probably fabricate rather than solid.Will have a general think later


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## 10K Pete (Jun 10, 2016)

That sounds about the right size.... Fabricate everything!!! Much easier
than solid. All simple, straight forward stuff, like the current one.

Pete


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## Twizseven (Jun 10, 2016)

Barry,

You have made a lovely job of this shaper, and Brians drawings as usual are amazing/  I've got Turbocad 2015 Pro but have not yet managed to draw up some bits I fitted to my Cowells lathe.  Work just keeps getting in the way.

You mentioned fitting a motor and a layshaft.  I have a small 7" shaper which I refurbished and fitted a new motor to.  The way the layshaft and motor is fitted may provide you with a few ideas.  See below:







Regards,

Colin


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 10, 2016)

Almost there----


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## bazmak (Jun 10, 2016)

Thank you Colin ,it looks a nice machine.Do you have anymore photos and info on it.Ie rough sizes and weight.Is there any info on the web on this machine?
Just sent an email  with info on the first snagging list Brian,almost there


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## Twizseven (Jun 11, 2016)

Barry,

It is a Corbetts XL 7, although mine does not have any name on it anywhere.  Possibly Corbetts made them for others to badge.  There is a section on this shaper on the www.lathes.co.uk website.  The full spec and copies of advertising are also shown.

I have quite a few photos of the various parts when dismantled.  They can be seen in Dropbox via the link below:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7pumsta1zbxxnzi/AACd2CxIA9Q65_sMdn79s_Wza?dl=0

Regards,

Colin


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 11, 2016)

Barry---I got the table top sorted out, and modelled the bearing housing #37, the 12 mm ball bearing that fits in it, the shaft item #32(except for the keyway) and the cutting tool. I can not find any sketches of gear#34 nor collar#35. I can't find a sketch of bushing #33 either, but I faked it on the bushings. I closed the hole thru the ram to 6 mm to accommodate the 6mm thru shaft. I still am not clear about the 4 holes thru the red dovetails item #10, that hold the brass gibs in place. Their location is dimensioned but I don't know the size. They appear to be threaded full length and counterbored as well. Can you enlighten me about them please.--Also, you show the gibs as being 175 long, while the dovetails item#10 are only 165 long. why is that?


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## bazmak (Jun 11, 2016)

Hi Brian,have answered your question by email,meanwhile will post this
problem for everyone.I reassembled the shaper,nudging a few bits and scraping the ways etc.From my previos video it can seen that the autofeed works well.However the angle changes as the table moves up and down and in the extreme the linkage reaches point of no return and jacknifed.Fortunately I was only turning it over by hand so only suffered a bent m8 feed screw (No problem as I was going to make a new one anyway) and a bent 3mm link rod
When I made these parts I did not x 1.5 but left them roughly the same and more in proportion.I am setting out the motion on paper in the high/low and middle posn.Solution is probably
1- remake a new rocker brkt and use the same pawl
1-Remake a new 5mm dia link rod
3-make a new brass spline/ratchet bush.The 8mm thread has a pitch of 1.25mm say 50 thou and has 24 teeth so say a feed of 2thou per stroke I will go slightly larger dia and mill 12 teeth for say 4 thou feed.A couple of other minor mod
which wont affect to any degree what we have already drawn Regards barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 12, 2016)

Barry--I think that almost does it for parts. You might want to check the position you gave me for that keyway in shaft #32---it doesn't seem to in quite the right place relative to the gear and collar. I think the best way to handle the bolt situation is for you to print out a view of the whole shaper from the e-drawing I last sent you and just write in hand notes with arrows pointing to where the bolts go and what size and type they are, scan it and send it to me. I will put the appropriate bolts in place and that way they will show up on a software generated bill of materials on my general arrangement drawing. As far as your problem with the dynamics of the crank arm go, that is probably best solved by you, as you have the shaper there.


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## bazmak (Jun 14, 2016)

Well I sorted the feed linkage,made a few new parts,detailed it all up,and sent the final drgs to brian along with a bolt list
Assembled everything,turned it over a lot and made some chips running it in the lathe.Satisfied I have done all I can at this stage and Brian can upload to
Hmem down load section.Hope someone can make a start
Any questions I will be here.Many thanks to brian for putting in a lot of effort
with great drgs Video to follow


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## bazmak (Jun 14, 2016)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAu_nAqmCOc[/ame]


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## bazmak (Jun 14, 2016)

To be successful in the above I will describe the std process I always use
It has the same principles as car wheel nuts and guarantees that 2 parts can be taken apart and reassembled as accurately as a dowelled part
As an example bolting the 10mm thk top plt assy to the shaper body
The RHS body has 4x16dia and 2x16sq studs.1 ONLY of the round studs is drilled and tapped thru M5,then all 6 parts are then welded to the body
The top plt with the 2 half dovetails bolted in posn is marked out,drilled and c/bored for all 6 holes and the 2 bolted together with a single M5 cap screw
The ply is set accurately in position and diagonal opp hole is spotted thru
A heavy spot almost to the full dia of the 5mm drill.The plate is swung to one side and the second drilled and tapped.The plate is now bolted together with 2 screws.The remaining holes can then be spotted and the process repeated
The two components can now be taken apart and reassembled many times with great accurassy.Standard cap screws have the underside of the head chamfered at 30o and the counterbores are done with a standard drill
see sketch.Takes a bit longer but the results are well worth it


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## bazmak (Jun 14, 2016)

Having just posted the above and reading a thread on the pros and cons of slide valves and piston valves,i will post this short post
Many years ago I was in the process of making a 3.5 g 3 cylinder pacific loco
Heilan Lassie.The two outside cylinders had slide valves.They were mounted
thru the cover plt and body and fixed to the cylinders with 12 7ba slotted hd CSK screws.Im not a lover of slt csk so went for M3 hx sock.Problem with them is the large head being out of proportion,so I turned the hds down to 4.4mm
in a simple fixture in the collet ,lathe.I ground the point pf a 4.5mm drill to 90o
and using the above procedure.All fixings lined up perfectly and looked good/proportional to the model.Most of the fixings were 5 and 7Ba which are 
near enough M3 and M4.Still used a lot of hex hds for details but they have reduced hds and are difficult and expensive to source.As a note I have kept a set of drills sized and ground for a no of small fasteners both metric and imperial and I don't own any counterbores


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 14, 2016)

I keep adding things, and changing things, and re-arranging things, but I'm getting there. The detail drawings are about 80% finished. I'm going to end up with somewhere between 70 and 80 drawings. I still have to add all the bolts.


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## 10K Pete (Jun 14, 2016)

This is really looking great, guys! Can't hardly wait for the package to be released. Excellent work.

Pete


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## bazmak (Jun 16, 2016)

Almost there but in the meantime,spent some time playing with the shaper
and making brass and STEEL chips.It works really well for a model
A minor problem is when I swung the clapper box out of vertical it clahed with the body on the return stroke.The stroke is set at max(about 80mm) but it can be set a little shorter to solve the problem.Took a couple of short videos


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## bazmak (Jun 16, 2016)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0GmV4uUwl8[/ame]


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## bazmak (Jun 16, 2016)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRl0h4dJDuA[/ame]


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 16, 2016)

I've been adding fasteners now for three days, so that they will all show up in the bill of materials on the general arrangement drawing. My software tells me that there are now 197 individual components in the model (which includes the fasteners.)


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## 10K Pete (Jun 16, 2016)

Brian, you're really putting in a great effort on this project!! This will be a 
great thing for those wanting to build the machine.

Pete


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## bazmak (Jun 17, 2016)

Well Brian has almost finished and is doing a great job.A lot of time on my part
doing manual drgs on the drg board and Brian producing some excerlent drgs
in the computer,When they are made available I do hope someone will make a start and then ,I speak for both of us, it will be well worth the effort.Its not difficult or expensive and it makes a wonderful working model
Meanwhile I am making a start on design improvements and along with a build description will endeavour to get all the additional info thru email to anyone who does make a start at a later time
I have just remade the brass spline/bush and cut 12 larger splines instead of 24
This works better,and with the eccentric set at max moves the feed 1/12 rev
or 4.2 thou inch per stroke.About right.


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## BaronJ (Jun 17, 2016)

bazmak said:


> Almost there but in the meantime,spent some time playing with the shaper
> and making brass and STEEL chips.It works really well for a model
> A minor problem is when I swung the clapper box out of vertical it clahed with the body on the return stroke.The stroke is set at max(about 80mm) but it can be set a little shorter to solve the problem.Took a couple of short videos



Hi Barry,

Its probably a bit late now to suggest that the tool clamp should be able to rotate rather than the whole clapper box.  That would solve your fouling problem and it might make that item easier to build.

Other than that, I think that its a great build, it does you credit producing such a nice machine.

I'm also going to stand in line for a set of drawings.
Thanks for a great WIP thread.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 17, 2016)

I THINK I may be finished. It ended up at 70 drawings, if I haven't missed anything. The hardest part of this for me is the fact that the sketches I had to work from are all first angle projection, as drawn by Barry in Australia. I have worked for 51 years using third angle projection. This makes for a major confusion. Many of the parts I modelled ended up sort of bass-ackwards and had to be reworked. I know that first angle projection is common throughout Europe, but I didn't know the Aussies used it. Canada and USA uses third angle projection.


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## Cogsy (Jun 17, 2016)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I know that first angle projection is common throughout Europe, but I didn't know the Aussies used it. Canada and USA uses third angle projection.
> http://s307.photobucket.com/user/Br.../FULL ASSEMBLY OF SHAPER_zps7vugayog.jpg.html


 
From what I understand, we use third angle down here as well, however Barry is not originally from Australia so may have been trained in Europe (I'm pretty sure he's English).

It took me a little while to get my head around the different projections but I think I get it now. I haven't made anything backwards from your plans, or other North American plans, so I guess I'm used to the third projection.


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## bazmak (Jun 18, 2016)

As you say, English born and bred.Brought up on 1st angle but i can use 3rd angle where necessary.Anything other than 1st I usually put view on arrow X etc.With a little thought this exercise could have been made easier.Almost there and I have enjoyed it.Again many thanks Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 19, 2016)

All 69 drawings are finished. I could not get the HMEM upload/download section to work for me, so I have put the files up on a free web hosting site, which you can download from.--Somebody please try this download site and let me know if it works for you and if you are able to access the drawings okay. They are all .pdf files, so you won't need any cad program to open them.-Brian Rupnow
http://www.mediafire.com/download/da00sk1cg0yxa4e/SHAPER_DRAWINGS-BAZMAC.zip


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## canadianhorsepower (Jun 19, 2016)

Brian Rupnow said:


> .--Somebody please try this download site and let me know if it works for you and if you are able to access the drawings okay. They are all .pdf files, so you won't need any cad program to open them.-Brian Rupnow
> http://www.mediafire.com/download/da00sk1cg0yxa4e/SHAPER_DRAWINGS-BAZMAC.zip



Thanks to both of you guys for the GREAT WORK you did
all downloaded and in my to do file 
Thanks again 
Thm:Thm:Thm:Thm:


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## BaronJ (Jun 20, 2016)

Yes !  Downloaded just fine here.  Many thanks both.


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## bazmak (Jun 20, 2016)

Many thanks again from me Brian.I too now have a full set of drgs
but as I can only read and print them I have done the following
Print them off and scan them back into the computer as Jpeg image files
with the limited software I have I can now produce new drgs or revise existing
I have made a blank template from brians drg so can hand draw new ones or revise/amend existing without bothering him further.There was one minor change that we were too late to catch so if anyone makes a start let me know and I will email.I am now looking at making modifications/improvements.Instead of reverse engineering I can now draw first and manufacture/prove and upload or email as image files
My first intent is make a new toolholder to fit the clapper box which hopefully
will do one of the few jobs that the mill wont do.To cut an internal keyway.
If anyone is intending to make a start let me know and I will make a detailed build description,also any new ideas please post. Regards barry


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## bazmak (Jul 2, 2016)

I made a new toolholder for the clapper and ground up an M4 tap
Drilled and tapped an additional M4 to the rocker brkt and fitted a clamp screw
to lock the Pawl in neutral.The following videos show the results.It works but not satisfactory,the stroke is too far forward,even when reduced in length the vice overhangs the front of the table and setup is not rigid enough
Attached videos show,but at the end of the day it is a model


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## bazmak (Jul 2, 2016)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhA...tps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgrwuUiU5GUt2kY


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## bazmak (Jul 2, 2016)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vY0q0St2kY[/ame]


----------



## bazmak (Jul 2, 2016)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgrwuUiU5GU[/ame]


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## bazmak (Jul 2, 2016)

Well I struggled to get the videos uploaded but I think you all get the gist
The new tool holders need to be bolt on to suit different tools and I think
a parting off blade typ would be more suitable.Two main changes I am now investigating are
1-Make the stroke position adjustable to enable the cut to take place nearer to the body with less overhang for the vice.I need to be able to adjust the position of the drive pin in the ram.Lots of thoughts
2-I would like to change the vertical feed from the thumbscrew to a worm drive
as the authors orig. intent.If I make brass wheel to replace the thumbscrew
about 38 dia and use an M6 worm thread can anyone advise.Is it easier to use the mill
and a m6 tap to cut the wheel, what dims are needed,how many teeth would be on nom 38 dia wheel.Should I gash the teeth first using the rotary table ,what dims should I turn the wheel to etc etc Any advice would be great before I start experimenting. Regards barry


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## bazmak (Jul 4, 2016)

Well I have started on the first modification to the model shaper
I had made a thumb wheel drive as I thought a worm and wheel was too difficult.On the last post when using the vertical feed for cutting a keyway
it was apparent the thumb screw was adequate for a model but limited
for useful work,so with nothing to lose I decided to have a go.Seen it done on U tube and that's it.Trial and error.Turned an alum blank to nom 38 dia (same as the thumbwheel) and cut a semi cicle on the outer face 6.8 dia x 3.4deep
The core dia of the M8 s/s screw I made and nudged it to give it divisible x pitch of 1.25 Set up in the mill to spin on my angle plate and with an M8 tap
lined up by eye and fed in.Never thought it would be that easy.Depth of cut until it looked right and engaged smoothly with the shaft.Made 2 brass bearing blocks and 2 alum handwheels and as you see from the photos,it works a treat
About to make a new wheel in brass when I REALIZED
When I came up with dims I forgot about Pi.Dont have 25t as I thought but 78
Now 1 full rev of the handwheel turns the vert feed crew 1/78 x 1mm pitch
or half a thou.It will take  forever and day to move the table up or down
Next I will look at fitting a larger thread setion to the centre of the M8 screw
And make the new brass to wheel to suit.Wait for next instalment


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## Apprentice707 (Jul 4, 2016)

Very nice job, I have a small pre war hand operated shaper I salvaged from a box of bits, it is a very useful tool.


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## Charles Lamont (Jul 4, 2016)

Am I being stupid or is it going round the wrong way in the videos?


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## bazmak (Jul 4, 2016)

Yes you are correct.In that video the lathe was running as normal,it should have been running in reverse.It means that the cutting stroke is in the lower section of the eccentric and means full leverage is on the return stroke and not the cutting stroke.Maybe explains some of the difficulties on cutting the keyway
Will remember next time many thanks for making me aware


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## Charles Lamont (Jul 4, 2016)

The corollary of improved leverage is a lower, near constant, speed on the cutting stroke, and the 'quick return' the mechanism is named for.


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## bazmak (Jul 4, 2016)

Thanks for your input.Dont know the tech terms but I knew the thet 
the cutting stroke was slower with more torque than the return stroke
I just forgot to put the lathe in reverse on that video.Any further input is most welcome.Any thoughts on making the stroke location adjustable ?


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## 10K Pete (Jul 4, 2016)

I'll probably not use the correct terms here, but on the full size shapers I've seen the crank pin is moved closer to, or away from, the center of the
bull gear to adjust the stroke. I seem to recall a block that slides in a U shaped
slot, on the gear, that is moved by a screw that goes through the block. Sorta
like a cross-slide set up....

Pete


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## bazmak (Jul 5, 2016)

Thanks for your input.My thoughts are to slot the ram so the pin can be moved
,I will give it more thought when I finish the worm/wheel
In order to increase feed and having a new M20 tap never used with M20
bolts comm available I did the following.-
Machined a 50mm lg piece of M20 thread and fitted to the centre of the M8
s/st shaft. Made a new worm gear from brass 25t.Much improved the feed is now 5 thou per rev an increase of 10x. Now I am happy with that I will turn a new
single piece screw from M20 allthread and avoid single point screwcutting
Will also increase the M6 vert screw from M6 to M8


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## goldstar31 (Jul 5, 2016)

Apologies if I am 'rambling a bit' but years ago I restored an old hand Drummond shaper- along with a Round Bed!

I had Ian Bradley's book called the Shaping Machine . It went with the shaper.

So where is a copy of bits of the book etc? As far as my memory holds, I went through the bits on 'bedroom-workshop.com' which is on the Perfecto principally. Again, bits of the old book appear here but there is also a reference to NEME-S.org site. I recall 'digging this' stuff out in the days of yore.

Maybe this will help to complete your most interesting article and project.

Cheers

Norman



PS

I suffixed the neme-s.org site with 'shaper'. Bradley's book seems to be there and lots more.

N


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## bazmak (Jul 8, 2016)

I made a new worm shaft from 12dia and press fit a 40mm length of M20 allthread to the centre.I also made a new vert. feedscrew from M8 s/st
allthread to replace the original M6.Minor mods to mating parts.
I was struggling to get a nice sliding fit to the vert. dovetail so I cut 1 side with a slitting saw and added 3 no M3 grubscrews.Then I played about for a couple of hrs scraping etc until I was happy with the vertical slide fit.Video and image 
shows the end result.I had to modify the handwheels to obtain max stroke and feed etc Stroke is 0 to 80mm.Horiz feed is 75mm and vert feed is 45mm
I am now starting on the adjustable ram stroke/position

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D17VlhiQjTw[/ame]


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## bazmak (Jul 9, 2016)

Made a start by changing the 6mm lever pin hole to a 30mm long slot
and cbored 10mm dia x 7mm deep. Elongated the slots in the ram core to suit
Made a new pin and sliding bushes and the pin can be set in posn and 
locked with a single M6 locknut.Photos explain now to reassemble and try it all out by cutting a keyway on a short stroke set close to the bod

y.TBC


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## bazmak (Jul 11, 2016)

Finished the 2 major mods and happy with both.Will now strip down and 
complete the finish etc.Will redraw the revisions to suit the mods.If anybody wants to make a start I will email revised drawing.Will also make a start
on a build description.I think I have taken this 3" model shaper as far as I can
and I must say its been a pleasure to make and I am happy with the results
Anything else is just playing about.The size is about right for a model that can do work,but to do useful work it should be larger,that will bring other problems
Any larger and it encroaches into the area of existing small shapers etc


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## bazmak (Jul 11, 2016)

Help still haven't got the hang of posting videos from utube
Sometimes it works sometimes not WHAT AM I DOING WRONG


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## Cogsy (Jul 11, 2016)

Your link looks to be the right format Baz - except your typing is letting you down a bit. I believe you meant to type etc? maybe before the link, but you missed a space so you put : ethttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDC78zx1o6Mc

Without the 'et' at the front : [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDC78zx1o6Mc[/ame]


EDIT : but for me, that video is not valid...


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## ThomasSK (Jul 11, 2016)

Remove the extra c from the etc and then the link becomes: [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDC78zx1o6M[/ame]


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## gus (Jul 11, 2016)

Hi Baz,
Gus missed the China Shaper he had for 20 years.We had made in UK Shapers in Trade School. The poor vice was bashed by many students and Gus was given the task of replace the vice nut. Now trying very hard not building this shaper. About to D/L Win/Zip Files and spend time reading and sizing up before jumping in. With a mini lathe and mill,it will tough.


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## gus (Jul 11, 2016)

Zip Files D/Led .  Now studying the Main Shaper Body Drawing, giving me the impression that I could manage the machining. Next to review would be the shaper ram. May go for C.I. for easy machining.  Please advise sourcing for main gears. Plan to motor drive Shaper.


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## bazmak (Jul 11, 2016)

Hi Gus,you happy fisherman.I built it with a mini lathe and mill and without drawings etc and I didn't find it difficult at all.And I am not the most confident of people.If you make a start then FOLLOW THE THREAD and photos and do it in stages as I had to with no drawings and details.Its not difficult and now I have ironed all the problems out its a beautiful little machine.I couldn't be more pleased.As seen in the last video,with the stroke position now adjustable
the cut becomes better and the machine much more rigid.If you buy the RHS and top/bottom plates it makes a good start.I will email you a build guide
but I have full confidence in your ability


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## bazmak (Jul 11, 2016)

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=So7lPueuQkY[/ame]
Thanks for the input Thomas I think what is happening is that when I 
drag the video over it get mixed with the end of my text
I have seen it happen with images where the last word is at the other side of the image.This time  I have inserted the video first and then input the text


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## bazmak (Jul 11, 2016)

Hi Gus,just read your second post.Personally I found it easy to make the ram from 3 pieces as described and bolted together.Cast iron would be ok.I would still make the dovetail plate as bolt on.The gears are not important I used 2 
spare change gears from my old lathe.The mod is not important as long as they mesh.The bull gear needs to be nom 65 to 70 dia  65/67T and the drive gear 25/30T. Again I say read the thread for ref and all becomes clear
I decided on the gears at the beginning and then sized everything to suit
I would have preferred the gears to be wider BUT that's what I had
Do you have spare change gears on your lathe or buy a set of sieg change gears


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## gus (Jul 12, 2016)

bazmak said:


> Hi Gus,just read your second post.Personally I found it easy to make the ram from 3 pieces as described and bolted together.Cast iron would be ok.I would still make the dovetail plate as bolt on.The gears are not important I used 2
> spare change gears from my old lathe.The mod is not important as long as they mesh.The bull gear needs to be nom 65 to 70 dia  65/67T and the drive gear 25/30T. Again I say read the thread for ref and all becomes clear
> I decided on the gears at the beginning and then sized everything to suit
> I would have preferred the gears to be wider BUT that's what I had
> Do you have spare change gears on your lathe or buy a set of sieg change gears



Hi Barry.
From the KG Stock Gear Master Cataloque,I was able to confirm both gears are Module 1.0 and I have the M.I.C. Involute Gear Cutters. As per J.I.S. gear thickness is 10mm. 4 years ago bought the Cataloque from TokyuHands,Tokyo,Japan. Was then planning to cut metric gears and same Cat. would be useful. Wasn't cheap. Will be at least 3 months before going into making the shaper. Planning to put in an electric motor. Please advise 1/4 hp ???. Might make a pedestal locker and hide the bulky motot below.
 Happen to have C.I. Bars on hand. Now to run around to scrounge for other materials. 
Cutting the key ways will be fun. 

Trust all is well Down Under. Take Care.


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## bazmak (Mar 11, 2017)

With time on my hands looking after my wife with a broken pelvis I have
just reread this full post.Has anyone started to make it??
How is Gus the happy fisherman I haven't seen any posts for a while
hope everything is OK. Regards barry


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## fitzroy (Nov 23, 2018)

I read the hold post/thread and I loved it and would try and build if my self. Great work from both viewers and creaters (sorry I can't remember your names) and Baz mak I was looking for a handout I had from a teacher of mine on indexing to send to but I could find it, if I do it shore would be yours.


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## Ed (Nov 24, 2018)

I must have missed it. Where did the plans come from and can you still get them?Thanks Ed


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## bazmak (Nov 24, 2018)

Plans were drawn up by Brian Rupnow and myself for free issue to anyone Not sure where they are but
Brian will guide you to them. I would appreciate a small donation to a charity and will assist if you start the build
Regards barry


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## ozzie34231 (Nov 25, 2018)

Just read the entire post; very neat project!
Brian, any chance of getting your digital model? Any of the popular formats would be good.
Thanks, Ozzie


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## nel2lar (Nov 25, 2018)

Brian Rupnow said:


> All 69 drawings are finished. I could not get the HMEM upload/download section to work for me, so I have put the files up on a free web hosting site, which you can download from.--Somebody please try this download site and let me know if it works for you and if you are able to access the drawings okay. They are all .pdf files, so you won't need any cad program to open them.-Brian Rupnow
> http://www.mediafire.com/download/da00sk1cg0yxa4e/SHAPER_DRAWINGS-BAZMAC.zip


Brian
Very nice job with the drawings.
Thank you
Nelson


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## nel2lar (Nov 25, 2018)

ozzie34231 said:


> Just read the entire post; very neat project!
> Brian, any chance of getting your digital model? Any of the popular formats would be good.
> Thanks, Ozzie




Ozzie
At the bottom of my reply to Brian's quote has the link to the files. They are beautiful.
Good luck
Nelson


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## bazmak (Nov 25, 2018)

Let me know if you make a start as some drgs I posted I think were lost thru photobucket
I also made some design changes at a the end which I don't think were drawn up,but they can 
be incorporated without too much problem.One was the slots to make the stroke positon adjustable and the other was the 
worm drive to the vertical feed.I have photos and I was going to produce a build description which I never got around to do
If you make start then please start a thread and I will assist where I can.I can run mine in the lathe but like to add
a motor drive if possible with some sort of small motor,maybe housed in a box/stand but not too big and bulky
Regards barry


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## nel2lar (Nov 25, 2018)

Barry
Thank you so very much. I saw the screw and gear to raise and lower the table, nice. I would be interested in the slot for the stroke setting.
That was one fine build, very nice.
Nelson


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## bazmak (Nov 25, 2018)

Slots and new pin shown on no 133.Will post new photos when you make a start on a new thread


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## Ed (Nov 26, 2018)

*Brian I went to that site to down load shaper plans. Got a bad bug from site been all morning trying to clean computer. Can't get it clean. Be careful of that site. Ed*


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## nel2lar (Nov 26, 2018)

Ed 
I am so sorry to hear that because I downloaded it before I wrote you.
I do not understand how people can be so destructive to people they have no knowledge of.
Good luck with your computer.
Nelson


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## ozzie34231 (Nov 27, 2018)

nel2lar said:


> Ozzie
> At the bottom of my reply to Brian's quote has the link to the files. They are beautiful.
> Good luck
> Nelson


Thanks Nelson, but what I'm asking for is the 3D model that Brian made in order to make the drawings. We have seen the model in his posts, but I don't think he has posted a link to download the 3D model.


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## fitzroy (Nov 27, 2018)

Ed said:


> *Brian I went to that site to down load shaper plans. Got a bad bug from site been all morning trying to clean computer. Can't get it clean. Be careful of that site. Ed*


I have just read the post and saw your problem and tried to download it. I got it downloaded so you are still having problems and you want you can send your email to me and I'll forward it to you.


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## Ed (Nov 29, 2018)

Did you get my email? Ed


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## fitzroy (Dec 8, 2018)

Ed said:


> Did you get my email? Ed


Sorry but I just got it this morning but  i have already send then, it's in zip format and I hope you can extract them and I would be intrinterested in that project you are doing


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## cds4byu (Dec 10, 2018)

I agree that the design and the plans are terrific.  Thanks to both Bazmak and Brian.

I have decided to make a design for those of us living in the inch world (i.e., in the U.S.).  When I'm done I may build it.

I'm working in the Free edition of Onshape, which is an online (web-based) solid model CAD system.  As long as you are willing to make your designs public, you can use the system for free.  So far it looks like a pretty powerful system.

It seems that they are trying to hide the free edition somewhat.  GOggle 

Anyway, I'm just getting started -- I have the column weldment modeled, but that's all.  I haven't put the holes in the side for any of the shafts yet, because the locations of the shafts depend on the specific gears that are used.  And I haven't chosen them yet.

I'll try to make periodic updates.

Carl


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## bazmak (Dec 10, 2018)

Simply converting the existing plans from metric to imperial does not seem to really worthwhile as the original was constructed from whatever was available in both metric and imperial and simply modelled and dimensioned in metric. To make the exercise worthwhile maybe you could look at improving the design and maybe adding a small motor.Regards Barry


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## cds4byu (Dec 10, 2018)

Yes, I understand.  I'm not converting the dimensions from metric to imperial; I could do that with a pencil on the prints.  I'm redesigning based on what's available (so far, rectangular sections, round stock, bar stock; plan to add gears, too).

Probably most improvements to the design would require a running model first, to see what the weaknesses are.

Thanks,

Carl


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## fitzroy (Dec 10, 2018)

cds4byu said:


> Yes, I understand.  I'm not converting the dimensions from metric to imperial; I could do that with a pencil on the prints.  I'm redesigning based on what's available (so far, rectangular sections, round stock, bar stock; plan to add gears, too).
> 
> Probably most improvements to the design would require a running model first, to see what the weaknesses are.
> 
> ...


That's quite smart, build one use it and see its weaknesses as you said.


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## bazmak (Dec 10, 2018)

I built the first one but I didn't see any weaknesses only improvements/design changes


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## cds4byu (Dec 11, 2018)

So what improvements and/or design changes do you recommend?
Carl


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## bazmak (Dec 11, 2018)

I did make a couple that are not detailed on the drws but photos have been posted
The main one was the worm and pinion for the vertical feedscrew
The second was the slotted pin for adjusting the stroke position,both work well.
I would have liked to add motor drive using a small compact motor
and also thought about a cutout and Perspex window to view the internal mechanics
The shaper works well and will cut mild steel,(with a little bounce) however it is just a working model
and not able to do useful work,so I have not considered making things things heavier and more rigid
It has been on a shelf gathering dust since I made it but may resurrect it if others decide to build one


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## moerman (Dec 12, 2018)

Why is it not usefull while you say it works well? You mantioned making things heavier, is that required to make it usefull? It is a very interesting piece of machinery!


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## Mark Duquette (Dec 12, 2018)

Just read the entire post.  Great work on the shaper and the drawings.  I would love to get a 3d Cad model of the shaper if possible.  A Cad model would make it easier to substitute available materials.

I would like to reiterate that the shaper is some awesome work


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## bazmak (Dec 12, 2018)

It is interesting and works well as well as looking good.My comment about not doing useful work means that
it is inefficient in this modern world,with all the modern vertical mills etc I would certainly not choose it to make a part
when I have a lathe and/or mill.I did make a slotting head with the intension of cutiing internal keyways but was
not overly successful.In this modern world a full size shaper is not really efficient,hence almost redundant but they
are beautiful machines.Dont get me wrong my model shaperworks well and cuts most materials but I would not use for production work


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## LSAGuy (Dec 13, 2018)

Coming up through the shops I used shapers and planers a lot. Put a piece of steel in it, set the depth of cut and the rate of advance, start it up and go do something else while it takes care of itself. Take the cutting tool off put in a grinder and resurface the pads used in a hydroformer. Again set it up, start it up go do something else. How exactly is that inefficient?


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## fitzroy (Dec 13, 2018)

LSAGuy said:


> Coming up through the shops I used shapers and planers a lot. Put a piece of steel in it, set the depth of cut and the rate of advance, start it up and go do something else while it takes care of itself. Take the cutting tool off put in a grinder and resurface the pads used in a hydroformer. Again set it up, start it up go do something else. How exactly is that inefficient?


Just àdding cut off switch and you wouldn't have to worry any more (effectiveness)


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## bazmak (Dec 13, 2018)

You just confirmed my statement if you have to use more than 1 machine at a time
Wonder how health and safety would view it in these more modern times


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## fitzroy (Dec 14, 2018)

bazmak said:


> You just confirmed my statement if you have to use more than 1 machine at a time
> Wonder how health and safety would view it in these more modern times


It would be useless in these times but there are still good things you could achieve from it that you can't on other machines. Its based on what you want/what you have (personal preference)


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## bazmak (Dec 14, 2018)

We are now getting in the realms of sillyness.My statement was that my model shaper although it works well
is NOT capable of USEFULL work.I also reiterate that a full size shaper although a beautiful machine is not
capable of efficient work compared to modern machines.End of discussion


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## mcostello (Dec 14, 2018)




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## bazmak (Dec 14, 2018)

Type of work the shaper did well.But would be done with a broach machine these days,if you have one


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## Cogsy (Dec 14, 2018)

I don't get the distinction you're trying to make here Baz. I agree the shaper isn't a really useful tool for industry any more, there's much faster methods available. But the internal spline shown above would be something most of us would struggle to produce at home, yet could be easily made with a shaper. So could this small shaper produce that internal spline? If it can, I would say it's a useful tool for the home shop, just maybe not very often.


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## bazmak (Dec 14, 2018)

If you read my thread towards the end I did try cutting an internal keyway with a new head and specially ground tool
It was not successful.However I realized that this type of work (ie internal splines and keyways) was very suitable to a shaper
The model would be very limited to size and with minimal rigidity and accuracy.Therefore my comment not good for useful work
I would love for someone to make this model and play about with improvements etc


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