# Lapping compound on ways to bring x axis in?



## 90LX_Notch (May 19, 2009)

Wise and knowledgeable HMEM members.

I can't get the x axis gibs to adjust on the X2 mill that I just got. If I adjust them so their good in the "sweet spot", they bind at the extremes. I deburred everything with honing stones and it's better then when I started, but it's just not right. I want to know if it would be a good idea to use lapping compound to get everything "even". I have it apart so that I can shuttle the saddle back in forth by hand. The feed screw is removed.

I don't see a problem, but the knowledge and wisdom on this board would know better then I regarding this idea.

Thanks,
Bob


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## Cedge (May 19, 2009)

Bob
I hand lapped mine and it helped quite a bit, however, try this first. Adjust the center point on the gib first, then adjust the outboard screws. You might find the deburring worked but the adjustment is too tight on the end screws. 

I'm not sure I'd want the compound in the dove tails. It's difficult to get outof there once its worked into the metal. Then you have an ongoing abrasive surface in the last place you'd want it.
Steve


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## Maryak (May 19, 2009)

Bob,

I agree with Steve, don't put lapping compound on the ways. Have you tried bearing blue on the ways to show the high spots? Then hand scrape the gibs to remove the blue marks on them.

Hope this helps. ??? ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## 90LX_Notch (May 19, 2009)

Thanks guys. Duly, noted. I thought of using Dykem, but getting that around here is like walking on the moon. Usually I use Sharpie markers but they dried out. I'll pick some up tomorrow and find the high spots. I just thought the lapping compound might be a fast way to get the high spots out.


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## Mainer (May 19, 2009)

No, I wouldn't recommend lapping compound. You would have no control over what happens, except a fervent hope that it's what you want.


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## RonGinger (May 19, 2009)

In a proper lapping job you use a well formed tool to lap the surface to a desired shape, usually a flat or a cylinder.

If you just put lapping compound between two surfaces and rub them together you are not lapping, you are simply wearing the parts away. You have no control over which part is worn away. You are adding years of normal wear to make the machine loose.

A proper scraping with a reference straight edge is the right way to fix this problem.


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## websterz (May 21, 2009)

I highly recommend making new gibs. Here is a fixture that makes it easy.

http://www.fignoggle.com/plans/figNoggle_gibStripViseBlock.pdf

If you have access to brass or bearing bronze go that route. I wouldn't make them out of material harder than the cast iron used in the mill. You want the gib to be the wear point, not the mating surface. A lot of folks have had good luck with Delrin or even Teflon.


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## 90LX_Notch (May 21, 2009)

websterz - 

I have it working much better now. 

The best improvements came when I sanded the gib on a flat surface. Also, once assembled, playing with the alignment of the screw helped along with playing with the orientation of the x-axis screw nut.  

Thanks for the link it will be very useful. Based on the improvement I saw by just sanding the gib, making new gibs all around should improve it quite a bit.


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## rkernell (Jun 1, 2009)

I don't own the mill, but I do their lathe, so the gibs are surely milled the same. I was having the same situation as you and a lot of slop in the compound slide causing chatter when cutting. I created gibs out of brass that completely filled the gib cavity. This made an amazing amount of difference. I don't have chatter and I don't have to lock down the compound when cutting. I would recommend not sizing the gibs that you make to the originals, but the gib cavity.


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## RICHARDDV (Jun 1, 2009)

i HAD THE SAME PROBLEM ON MY 7X10 . i CORRECTED TI BY STRIPPING THE LATHE DOWN AND HAND LAPPING WITH TURTLE WAX PAINT COMPOUND (WHITE) FOLLOWED BY A CAREFUL CLEAN UP AND AGAIN WITH TOOTHPASTE AND ANOTHER CLEAN UP. sINCE THE GIBS ARE A PAIN IN THE A-- TO KEEP ADJUSTED, i MADE UP A SHIM PACK OF VARIOUS BRASS SHIM THICKNESSES TO BE ABLE TO STABILIZE AND HOLD THE WAYS FIRM W/O EXCESSIVE PLAY. MUST WORK SINCE I HAVE NOT HAD TO READJUST SINCE (3 YEARS)  RICHARD


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## 90LX_Notch (Jun 1, 2009)

Thanks for the tip about the gib size. I have it working very well now. I made a thrust washer out of brass for the screw seat and that helped. The absolute biggest improvement came from playing with the alignment of the screw seat, screw nut and screw for the x axis. Before I really played with alignment I could get it to work well in one direction and not the other.


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## Tin Falcon (Jun 1, 2009)

I am having trouble with the y axis on my seig x2 the gib is catching the top edge of the way . I am making one of brass hope to get it to follow the flat instead of the edge. Ball end screws are supposed to help here.
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jun 6, 2009)

well made one of the fignoogle gib jigs on the shaper since the mill is apart more than together right now. Made a brass gib and drilled the locator holes insitu using a quickie drill bushing to protect the threads. Removed the gib cleaned the chips off and replaced the y axis is great now. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jun 14, 2009)

Another issue I have found on the x-2 X asis is that you need to have the nut for the lead srew atached in the correct/ sweet spot and ther may be a bend in the screw to bind up put a monkey in the works. so beware.
Tin


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 14, 2009)

Hi Tin,

What did you do to find the sweet spot?

When I got my mill, I took it apart and cleaned it. Had a devil of a time getting things adjusted. Still working on adjustment.

Anyway, I started with the nut loose then tightened the set screws that held the nut in place while moving the table back and forth. My thought being...let it find its own sweet spot.

But I don't know if there's a better way or if what I did is even good.

Thanks.


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