# Economy build.



## CMS (Oct 5, 2011)

This is a project that's been on going for about a year now, I started posting up in the casting area but it may fit better down here now. Sorry, but there are but a few shots I did of "work in progress" but there are many others here that are far better teachers than I. Anyway this is what I've managed to get done so far, hope that I can stay with it this time and maybe I'll finish it by years end.


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## CMS (Oct 5, 2011)

I did get a few shots of some of the head work, nothing to shout about but I'm happy that I'm getting one step closer to hearing it run!!!


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## CMS (Oct 7, 2011)

I've managed to get the cam gear finished tonight. One thing the plans called for was to ream .375" for the cam bearings, but I went 9.5mm which is .374" and with an added touch of green locktite, it worked out nicely. Here's a few pictures.
 Hope to mount the cam plate soon and acquire some brass for the rocker arm and the governor.


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## CMS (Oct 9, 2011)

Got a bit done today, milled out the side of the frame for the cam plate. All was great til I realized that I'd forgot to allow for tool diameter on the lower end of the y-axis cut. :redface2: What a GOOBER!!! Could have been worse though, guess some JB weld or some PIG putty will be put to use.


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## CMS (Oct 12, 2011)

Got a few more items done/fixed. Milled the rear of the camplate and installed just need to replace the screws with 6-32 countersunk. Milled the rear of the block to allow for the crankguard, and a bit of pig putty to fix the goob I had when milling out for the camplate.


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## danstir (Oct 12, 2011)

Interesting build. Thanks for including your mistake, I though I was the only one.


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## CMS (Oct 12, 2011)

As long as we can strive to learn something from our goob-ups then alls not lost, I think!!! Got the governor shaft done except for drilling the holes for the fly weights. But I decided to change up on the design by making it one piece rather than two pieces as the plans call for. But I had already pre-drilled the 3/16" hole for the shaft to insert into, so I left the gear end at .1875" outside diameter and stepped the weight side to .250" OD. The .250" OD should retain enough meat for the .1875" hole in that area. Hope the shot of the prints compaired to what I did in my change makes since.


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## CMS (Oct 12, 2011)

And a few more pictures.


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## CMS (Oct 14, 2011)

A few more thing accomplished tonight, like countersinking the camplate mounting holes. Got the cam gear mounting shaft made, located the position for it and got that mounted. Then located the position for the governor shaft and got that installed too. Got a shipment of metal from Speedy Metals today so alot of making my own screws, nuts, etc. will be instore.


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## CMS (Oct 14, 2011)

And a couple more shots.


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## deverett (Oct 15, 2011)

Coming together very well now.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## CMS (Oct 16, 2011)

Trying my best to stick with it this time. Most of the easier stuff is about done and now things are starting to get a bit more challenging. Well I guess all of it has been an challenge. But hopefully my learnings from this will help me on the second Economy kit that's waiting so patently to be built. Or do I start the Galloway??? Think I'll ponder that thought a bit more as I get closer to finishing this project.


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## CMS (Oct 18, 2011)

Got a package from Speedy Metals the other day, so lets go make something!!! First was to replace the 5/16 nut threaded for 6-32 for one that's 1/4" nut with the same threads. Got a start on this but still bit more to go. Got a small Victor Jersey #741 vice that's really come to the rescue with these smaller parts.


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## CMS (Nov 1, 2011)

Not very much done in the last few weeks, road blocks. Anyway I've managed to get the connecting rod mocked up. Need to mount the latch-out block but will have to get some of that 2-56 stuff first. Been getting by with 4-40 and 6-32 sizes up til now.


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## gbritnell (Nov 1, 2011)

You're making great progress on the Economy and don't worry about the small goofs. If they can be fixed they're only small bumps in the trip. It's when welding or other serious repairs are needed that they become big goofs.
gbritnell


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## danstir (Nov 1, 2011)

It's looking more and more like an engine, if I listen closely I think I can already hear it running.


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## CMS (Nov 2, 2011)

Thanks guys, managed to get the latchout arm roughed out last night. Some final fitting and I should be able to mount it in place. Still need some 2-56 taps and screws, and I was going to order some of that stuff yesterday.


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## CMS (Nov 7, 2011)

Got the exhaust valve rocker arm made up. Will need to shorten the exhaust stem, as of now there's a heavy angle the rocker has to make between the pushrod and valve. Also need to make two spring guides, some keepers, and an exhaust pipe. This should finish up all that needs to be done to the head.


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## CMS (Nov 8, 2011)

Got the loose ends on the head buttoned-up with the exception of the exhaust pipe, still thinking about that design.


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## metalmad (Nov 8, 2011)

looking great Mate
your intake valve looks like it has a nut and thread?
not for the faint hearted
Pete


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## CMS (Nov 9, 2011)

Yes, there's a nut here that put a nut on a valve. And I can't remember the thread, but not long ago a fella had a bad experience with a threaded valve stem on a Fuller & Johnson model. And one would also think that we would learn from our and others mistakes, BUT. Well my thoughts here is to use the nut as a fine adjustment for the intake spring. Then I'll drill a small hole through and tie together with a safety wire.


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## CMS (Nov 10, 2011)

Got the governor weights and paws roughed in and I was test fitting everything to the shaft, looking good. Put the shaft in the engine, then it hit me!! Well it hit the crankshaft, the governor fly weights, that is!! 
 After a bit of thought, I decided to remove some of the excess metal on the throw of the crank, about .080". This gave the needed room to allow the governor shaft to rotate, but leaves VERY little room for the weights to move as the speed changes.
 As of now the options that I'm thinking about are 
#1, removing more from the crank throw
#2, cutting a steeper angle on the throw, ( see pictures )
#3, little bit of #1 and #2
#4, redesign/modify the fly weights.
 Any thoughts or extra opinions??


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## Catminer (Nov 10, 2011)

CMS;
Just my 2 cents. I have found that intake valve spring tension isn't that critical. Usually I just use a spring that lightly holds the valve shut. Doesn't seem to make much difference at the speed these engines run. A bag of springs from a surplus store yields an amazing variety of choices for $5.00. Lots of early engines used threaded valve stems and nuts but a cotter is a must.
The governor weights? a miss is as good as a mile.
Peter


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## CMS (Nov 11, 2011)

Thanks for the input catminer, I'm thinking of the same pin and keeper setup that's on the exhaust valve, think it'll be the safest bet. I also chose to remove material from the side of the throw of the crank. I increased the angle from 4* to 8* and removed about .075". Still looks ok and I think the crank should still have enough meat to hold up. The offside hasn't been cut in the picture to show the new vs. the old profile. Hope this will be enough to keep the weights from hitting the crank when they fly outward from centrifugal force. Going to be close.


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## CMS (Nov 11, 2011)

Problem solved and corrected!!! Both sides of crank have been reangled and a total of .080" removed. Got the governor shaft cut to length, and the grease cup installed on the connecting rod. Have located some 2-56 hardware at a hardware store about 35 miles from me, so a small trip is in store for tomorrow. Then I'll be able to mount the latch-out dogs on the connecting rod and the latch-out arm. Getting closer and closer!!!


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## CMS (Nov 15, 2011)

A few more items to check off the list, got the latch-out dogs made and installed on the latch-out arm and the connecting rod. Also got a few spark plugs made. The plugs were made from 5/16 hex for the body with 1/4-32 threads, some UHMW???? as the insulator , and a piece of 1/16 s/s welding filler rod as the electrode.


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## CMS (Nov 16, 2011)

Chipped away at the Economy a bit more this morning before work and a bit tonight. Got the speed adjustment arm made up and working and got the cam for the ignition points made. Tested the governor out tonight using a cordless drill to spin the engine over while holding the intake valve open, and it worked nicely. My drill is a two speed unit and low speed is 0-650 rpm. The latch out kicked in just before max speed of drill in low gear with the engines speed adjuster set to low speed.
 Will pick up a set of points tomorrow for the ignition and who knows, might be able to shoot a bit of gas to it and here a put-put. Still need to make the exhaust pipe, also think I'm going to mount the engine on a cart so I'll need to make that too. Getting closer and closer!!!!


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## CMS (Nov 17, 2011)

Bought a set of points today and got that mounted and timed up. Hooked a temporary gas tank up, my hot-box, give it a few spins using a drill. Well I did get a few hits out of it but the exhaust valve started leaking by, drew in too much gas which washed the oil from the cylinder walls, further killing the compression. Sometime later on I'll be re-lapping the valves to their seats, and being a bit easier on the gas. I did notice a few small bubbles around the head during the compression stroke, may need a thin head gasket too. 
 This will be the fun part, tear-down, inspect, & rebuild


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## CMS (Nov 20, 2011)

Didn't get to do anything to the Economy this weekend, but I did have a 10HP Fuller & Johnson, full size that is, follow me home from up North. Shot a few pictures from our stop at the Strasburg Railroad. Last shot is from the train. Had a good time with the family.


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## CMS (Nov 22, 2011)

Seems that a compression ring issue has got me. The rings that came with the kit fit really tight and have terrible drag, yet have about .012" ring gap. I tried a trick that some hot-roders told me, compress the ring and heat it up with a torch and it would take some of the spring out. Well the tip worked but I still have lots of drag and little to no compression. Before I give up on cast iron rings, and go with the viaton o-ring route, any pointers/info out there on making my own rings?


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## dalem9 (Nov 22, 2011)

Try bluing the cyl. then put the ring in the cyl. alone use the piston to move the ring up and down if you can make this work you will see were their is drag and if the cyl. or rings are true. Dale


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## CMS (Nov 23, 2011)

Thanks for the tip dalem9, I tried it and it showed a few high spots. Guess I didn't run the cylinder hone through the bore enough the first time. Going to spend some time with the drill, hope this smooths out my problem.


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## gbritnell (Nov 23, 2011)

Hi CMS,
First of all as for the bubbles around the head area you are definitely going to need a head gasket. You are probably not losing much compression through the head/cylinder surface but a gasket will help. Gas is so thin that it will squeeze through the smallest of gaps. 
 Second, I make most of my rings the by the Trimble method. I find that they work very well but it's time consuming to just make one ring. Rather than fool with making your own why not just purchase one? There are several suppliers who sell rings of good quality.
gbritnell


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## CMS (Nov 23, 2011)

Thanks for the input GB. I honed the cylinder somemore today and have managed to get it to hit some on it's own, not for long, but it's slowly getting better. Didn't think ring break-in would be this much trouble, good thing for the drill.


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## CMS (Nov 25, 2011)

Got it running!!!! Hope the youtube link works.  [ame]http://youtu.be/CMU6PNxw9dA[/ame][/youtube]

Got a few items left to complete, fuel tank, cart, and paint.


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## Catminer (Nov 25, 2011)

Congratulations
 It's always a good feeling the first time it comes to life, and if your like me you will accumulate many running hours.

 Peter


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## ShedBoy (Nov 26, 2011)

Well done. Sounds really good.

Brock


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## CMS (Nov 26, 2011)

Thanks guys, hope to have a more complete picture/video of it soon. Now I've had some thoughts on the paint, and everybody and their brothers has an Economy that's in the red flavor. And seems that everyone wants their model all shiny with pollished flywheels and a slick paint job, and that's ok.
 Well I'm thinking about that rusty, dirty, aged look. Think I've seen some rust color paint by Rust-Oleum at Lowes or Tractor Supply. And I've also been looking at a kit called "Rust n Dust" from the Micro-Mark Co. Really like the appearance that this Rust n Dust has, per the pictures, but not sure how it would hold up to the gas and oils. Think I'll shot Micro-Mark a question about that. 
 Now a question to those that may breeze through here, what have you seen or done to get an old, dirty, aged look? Besides pissing somebody off;-)


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## gbritnell (Nov 26, 2011)

By the video it looks like everything came together perfectly. It hits and misses just the right amount. Congratulations on a great build. 
gbritnell


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## Dave G (Nov 26, 2011)

Awesome, your engine runs great. Looks like a job well done to me, Dave


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## CMS (Nov 27, 2011)

Thanks guys, hope to make some progress this week on the cart. I did get some 3" and 4" pipe cut in 3/4" wide pieces for the front and rear wheels. Not sure if I'm going to use round or hex stock for the hubs. Also need to come up with a much smaller ignition system than the large battery/coil system that I've been using that's meant for my full size hit & miss engines.


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## CMS (Nov 30, 2011)

Got a 3" wheel mocked up tonight. Used some .750" shaft for the hub and some 8 penny nails for the spokes.


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## CMS (Dec 6, 2011)

I've got the paint brushes out, couldn't resist. I got some stuff called Rust n Dust from Micro-Mark, and to my eyes I'm very happy with the end results. Most here may cringe at the thought of all the time that is spent on making our precision models only to age it with rust and dirt and not the glossy paint job and polished brass. 
 In the full size antique engine world, most respect an unrestored engine running in it's work clothes, so all the better reason to try it with this model. Hope some here will understand and like what they see.


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## princerobin (Dec 10, 2011)

Wow! It's funny how the paint job makes it look like a full size engine.

Nice.

Robin


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## kuhncw (Dec 10, 2011)

I like it. Your engine looks like it's been out in a pasture pumping water for the last 40 years.

Regards

Chuck


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## Brian Thomas (Dec 10, 2011)

That turned out very nice.. The first painted picture fooled me! I thought it was a original engine that you wanted it to look like but not the model! Nice indeed.


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## CMS (Dec 11, 2011)

Thanks for the comments guys, that reassures me that I got the look that I was going for. Got my cart finished, though I think I should've made it touch bigger. Still thinking about internal or external gas tank. 
 And what is it with getting an engine to run as good after a paint job as before??? It took forever to regain compression when I put it back together, and then to keep compression I had to feed extra oil to it. Man did it ever make a mess out the back and after some checking, I found that my ring end gap was .015"!!! I checked the end gap with some new rings I'd bought from Debolt and they measured .008". I thought about it over a cold Miller Lite and decided to add a third ring. I've run it once sence then and it ran very well but I think some more break-in time is needed on the rings. 
 For an update on the Rust n Dust finish, it held up great to the heat, as for the oil and gas, well it's only ok. But on the brite side, touch up with this stuff is very simple as you don't have to worry about blending old finish with new, it will just add to the look!!!


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## CMS (Jan 2, 2012)

A few more things done over the Holidays, seeing I had a little free time. Bought a dome muffler and a 1 3/4" gas tank kit and some check valves from Debolt machine. The gas tank kit fit in the base like a glove when the mounting tabs were removed. Used an 1/8" ell with a swivel cover for the fill spout, looks close to the real ones on the full sized engine. I also put a fresh coating of Rust-n-Dust on, which should about wrap this project up.


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## idahoan (Jan 2, 2012)

Nice job!

I like the barn fresh look; need to file that tip away for future use.


Dave


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## steamer (Jan 2, 2012)

Looks a lot like my 12" to the foot Simplicity 8Hp!

Nice Job!


Dave


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## CMS (Jan 4, 2012)

Thanks guys.

And steamer, I'd like to see a picture or two of this Simplicity.

Craig


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