# Air compressor engine



## stevehuckss396 (Jan 1, 2013)

Here I go again!

This thing started out life as a Champion V-twin air compressor. The compressor has a 2.625 bore and a 2.000 stroke. The math comes out to 21 and a half cubic inch or 354 cc's. I am hoping when done it will run on gasoline. I have never seen one but I hear they are out there.












I plan to build new heads to get down to about 6:1 compression. It will have a pushrod and rocker valve train. The valves will be just over an inch in diameter. The cam will have .210 lift and be driven with a 3/8 inch timing belt. Because I will be keeping the cast flywheel i will need to keep the RPM's way down. The intake and exhaust manifolds will be made out of 3/4 inch copper plumbing pipe with machined flanges for bolting to the engine and carb. The carb I plan to use will be for a small motor cycle. The ignition will be fired with a hall sensor with some circuitry to fire a duel coil for a snowmobile. The ignition will work like a waist fire. The timing will be Pop - 270 degrees - pop - 450 degrees - pop. Cooling will be the fins in the cylinders and in the new heads and the flywheel has a built in fan. 






Because my CNC mill is so small I have a club member making 2 brackets for me. They are 13 inches tall and 6 inches wide. They will be the supports for the cam tunnel, fuel tank and ignition coil. This is by far the bigest build I have ever tried.

I worked on the camshaft tunnel today. It is made from a 5 inch piece of 2 X 2 aluminom. It will house the cam bearings as well as the lifter bushings and lifters.


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## Gordo (Jan 1, 2013)

Steamer,
Looks like a interesting build, I have not seen any in the past so this will be the first one. 
Keep us posted.
gordo


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 2, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Here I go again!
> 
> This thing started out life as a Champion V-twin air compressor. The compressor has a 2.625 bore and a 2.000 stroke. The math comes out to 21 and a half cubic inch or 354 cc's. I am hoping when done it will run on gasoline. I have never seen one but I hear they are out there.
> 
> ...


Hi Steve. 
               nice work as usual he is a link you will love
http://www.cncengines.com/ic.html
http://www.cncengines.com/snowengine.html
Ive use their product before and they are 100% foul proof.
MY 2 CENTS, I think it's deadly dangerous to keep the cast flywheel, a pump this size usualy turn 300 t0 400 max way less then your idle speed. If the crank brakes at 2000 RPM that flywheel will end out in my backyard LOL

cheers


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 2, 2013)

I have talked to Roy twice about this project and we decided his stuff was not for this project. I do agree with you on the ignitions from him. I have them on 2 of my engines and they work flawless.


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## longeron (Jan 2, 2013)

I also wanted to make the motor of the compressor, but found only a small compressor of the refrigerator.
It is made without tools, but you can see that it works
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xj3OvB59bY8&feature=share&list=UUsk4uIzuwEg7kGK3q4kqAlg[/ame]
It's very interesting what the outcome Projects. Good luck to the author!
I apologize for my English, translated in Google.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 3, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I have talked to Roy twice about this project and we decided his stuff was not for this project. I do agree with you on the ignitions from him. I have them on 2 of my engines and they work flawless.


Hi Steve you might prefer these guys
http://ch-ignitions.com/index.php?id_cms=20&controller=cms 
I had some of their product running on 2stroke Kart at 13krpm not a miss

cheers


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 3, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Hi Steve you might prefer these guys
> http://ch-ignitions.com/index.php?id_cms=20&controller=cms
> I had some of their product running on 2stroke Kart at 13krpm not a miss
> 
> cheers


 

I got the ignition all worked out. should come in under 40 bucks complete when done. I bought a surplus duel coil for 24 bucks and I have the rest in the garage. I also needed some blank circuit board to build the circuit.

Going cheap on this one. I think I can build this whole mess for under 300 bucks.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 12, 2013)

I had the block of aluminum sitting on the vise for a picture and the battery died in the camera before I could get the first picture. The heads are 4.750 square and 1.750 thick. They were cut from a couple of 5.500 square by 2.000 thick blocks. It seemed like I was hacking away all day. You can't tell from the pics but the combustion chamber is also machined into the bottom. Hopefully more tomorrow!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 13, 2013)

I got the top of the heads done today. milled down, holes are drilled, and the head bolts are counterbored.






The four holes are to hold the plate that the rocker tower will bolt to. I didn't want to drill the head directly in
the event the rocker ratio heeds to be changed. I can then make a new plate to adjust the rocker tower to
the new position.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 14, 2013)

One more step closer to having a set of heads. The valves have been cleared. Tomorrow we start on the fins.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 16, 2013)

Yesterday I cut the fins. They are no where near perfect but they come out pretty good. I also drilled and tapped the bolt pattern that will secure the intake and exhaust manifolds. The ports into the valve chamber wont be cut until the valve seats are installed. All I need to do is drill, tap, and counterbore the sparkplug hole and I will be as far on the heads as I can go for now.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 16, 2013)

Nice work did you do these on a rotary table???


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 16, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Nice work did you do these on a rotary table???


 

Nope! I have a small CNC mill that I built. It's not much to look at but it works well. If I had No CNC I would have done it that way. The top and bottom were CNCed. The valve chambers and all the rest were done by hand.




Here is the thread.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f38/home-brew-cnc-mill-5834/


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## gus (Jan 16, 2013)

You are my hero.From air compressor to engine.Will keep track of your progress.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 17, 2013)

gus said:


> You are my hero.From air compressor to engine.Will keep track of your progress.


 

Hero!  Crack me up. I wouldn't go that far. 


The sparkplugs are installed. The hole was drilled at 20 degrees. Then I counterbored with the boring head and ran the tap thru. I think I hit a good height. Not too deep!!  What's next, I don't know.


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## chrispare (Jan 17, 2013)

what your using store bought spark plugs! 

Im sure you can make your own plugs cant you? on that note have you done a thread on how you made your plugs for the deamon?

Chris


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 17, 2013)

chrispare said:


> what your using store bought spark plugs!
> 
> Im sure you can make your own plugs cant you? on that note have you done a thread on how you made your plugs for the deamon?
> 
> Chris


 

I thought it was covered in the Demon thread.

1 - Solder the electrode to the cap
2 - Super glue the electrode into the insulator.
3 - finish grind the electrode to length
4 - Bend the ground strap on the base
5 - use red loc-tite on the insulator and use the press in the plans to crimp the base over the insulator.


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## t.l.a.r. eng (Jan 18, 2013)

Interesting engine. I would definately leave the sand cast iron flywheel as a door stop. I've managed to blow up several flywheels in my time and they were alot sturdier than an air compressor flywheel.

That compressor probably started life just 20 miles north of where I live if it is a Champion.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 18, 2013)

t.l.a.r. eng said:


> Interesting engine. I would definately leave the sand cast iron flywheel as a door stop. I've managed to blow up several flywheels in my time and they were alot sturdier than an air compressor flywheel.
> 
> That compressor probably started life just 20 miles north of where I live if it is a Champion.


 
Yes it is a champion. It is about 30 years old and if not for a hole in the tank, it would still be in service.

You must have been spinning the heck out of the wheel to get it to go boom.


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## gus (Jan 18, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I thought it was covered in the Demon thread.
> 
> 1 - Solder the electrode to the cap
> 2 - Super glue the electrode into the insulator.
> ...


Hi Guru Steve,
You are my hero.Making your own spark plugs. Will mark this post for future use. 
During WW-ll ,petrol was not available to the public, but cars were still running but with methane gas generated by a wood fired methane generator heating up waste wood.
My neighbour made his own welding rods using some hocus-pocus flux coating. My school principal recycled old files into new files. Our very first prime minister made Cow-hide glue for a living during the war.All these folks plus Steve are my heros.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 18, 2013)

gus said:


> Hi Guru Steve,
> You are my hero.Making your own spark plugs. Will mark this post for future use.
> During WW-ll ,petrol was not available to the public, but cars were still running but with methane gas generated by a wood fired methane generator heating up waste wood.
> My neighbour made his own welding rods using some hocus-pocus flux coating. My school principal recycled old files into new files. Our very first prime minister made Cow-hide glue for a living during the war.All these folks plus Steve are my heros.


 

All I can say to that is, I'm honered!  Thanks Gus!!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 21, 2013)

Finished the valves. A 1/4 inch piece of drill rod and a 1.125 inch slice of drill rod were silver soldered together. The stem was cleaned up and the piece was finished.








They were done exactly like these.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nofj1CGSCM4[/ame]


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## starnovice (Jan 21, 2013)

Nice video Steve thank you for including it.  It really clears up the process.

Pat


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 21, 2013)

I have the rocker towers done and the shafts are also done and installed.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 22, 2013)

We have valve guides/seats.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 24, 2013)

Well heres the um. . . . ummmm. . . ummmm  I don't know what to call it.  It will house the hall sensor and the disk with the magnets in it that trigger the sensor. I will be able to turn it like a distributor to adjust the timing. It also houses the circuit board for the ignition. The cover will act as the heat sink for the giant transistor.

How about 

Distribuntion box?


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## agmachado (Jan 24, 2013)

Muito legal... ops...

Sorry... very cool !!! 

Best regards,

Alexandre


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 24, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> We have valve guides/seats.


are you using brass as seats and guide???
nice work:bow:


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 24, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> are you using brass as seats and guide???


 
No, that is 660 bearing bronze. That was a gift from one of the club members. I think he said 660.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 24, 2013)

agmachado said:


> Muito legal... ops...
> 
> Sorry... very cool !!!
> 
> ...


 
Thanks Alexandre!  Hows the RC doing?


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## cfellows (Jan 24, 2013)

Just checking in to see how your build is going.  Looks like top quality workmanship, typical Steve Hucks!

Chuck


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 26, 2013)

Finished the flanges that will be used to attach the intake and exhaust manifolds. I am going to make the pipes using copper pipe so these were made from copper also.















I also made the circuit board for the ignition. I used blank board and milled and drilled it.








Snug fit   NICE!


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## Lakc (Jan 26, 2013)

Looking good there! Sure is the easy way to do circuit boards.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 26, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Looking good there! Sure is the easy way to do circuit boards.




Best part about it is I doesn't have to be square. I can make them any shape I want.


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## starnovice (Jan 26, 2013)

Steve,
How do you create the tabs that keep the part from falling out when you cnc it?

Pat


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 26, 2013)

starnovice said:


> Steve,
> How do you create the tabs that keep the part from falling out when you cnc it?
> 
> Pat




CamBam does that. I spec how many and how tall and wide. CamBam creates them and I can drag them to where I want them. It's a great feature, I use it all the time.


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## starnovice (Jan 26, 2013)

Thanks Steve.  I thought that maybe you had to draw them in with the CAD program. I am using HSMXpress, can you give me a clue about what I should look for to find this feature.

Thanks pat


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 26, 2013)

starnovice said:


> Thanks Steve.  I thought that maybe you had to draw them in with the CAD program. I am using HSMXpress, can you give me a clue about what I should look for to find this feature.
> 
> Thanks pat




I boxed out on the left where they are speced. I circled the tabs in yellow. The tabs on the right can be moved anywhere I want them. CamBam is very good. I can't say enough about it.


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## starnovice (Jan 26, 2013)

Thank you very much for taking the time to do this.  I really appreciate it.

Pat


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 27, 2013)

Well I had to remake the cover for the distribuntion box. The first attempt was made using a 1/16 inch cutter. I think i pushed it a little to hard because the slots ware not straight. I redesigned to use a 3/32 cutter that way It would take the same or less time to make. All went well and I like this one much better.








I also got a jump on the rockers. They still need alot of work but I am done for the day and I know how you guys like pictures.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 28, 2013)

More goodies

Joe dropped off the brackets that he made. My mill was just too small. The pair hold the camshaft tunnel between the cylinders. They also hold the ignition coil, distribuntion box and fuel tank.














I also modified the timing gear and finished the rocker arms.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 28, 2013)

Nice work, what kind of lubrification is plan for the cam

cheers


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 28, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Nice work, what kind of lubrification is plan for the cam
> 
> cheers



The bottom of the cam tunnel is exposed so I can give it a smear once in a while. Shouldn't take much.


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## agmachado (Jan 28, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Thanks Alexandre!  Hows the RC doing?



Hi Steve,

The RC are fine... In last weekend did a complete clean them. The BAJA has some problems and I must discover how to resolve... the engine starts, but shortly after it shuts down, even  accelerating a bit. I think it may be lack of fuel, but of the adjustments as high and low are as say in the manual. It uses a Walbro carburetor, like this picture below...






Cheers,

Alexandre


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 28, 2013)

agmachado said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> The RC are fine... In last weekend did a complete clean them. The BAJA has some problems and I must discover how to resolve... the engine starts, but shortly after it shuts down, even  accelerating a bit. I think it may be lack of fuel, but of the adjustments as high and low are as say in the manual. It uses a Walbro carburetor, like this picture below...
> 
> ...


If I can give my 2 cents:hDe: you have a common problem with these carb.
you just cant get the thing to idle properly, it's to fast you fat it up a little bit....
it's to slow  ... you lean it up a little. and you end out chassing your tail.

Set it to as close as possible (it will still stall anyway) then remove the card if you look where
Idle hole  1,2 and 3 are your butterfly it hitting dead on center with one of them.
the cure is pretty simple. Drill a .040 hole in the throtle plate or file a (v)grouve on the opposite side of your idle
hole. The main Idea is to have your plate between two holes and not in the middle of them.
I'm french and sometime my explanation sounds like chinese. If this is the case I will submit a drawing

cheers


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 31, 2013)

Managed to get a little more done today.

Spring disks. All these do is keep the spring off the aluminum head and the collar keeps the spring center of the guide.







Spring retainers.







Lifter bushings. These will press into the cam tunnel and the lifters will ride up and down in them.







Idler wheel and shaft. The wheel gets a ball bearing on both sides and then it goes onto the shaft and held with an "E" clip












I drilled the boring looking timing gear to make it look better. It needed something.







I have the intake and exhaust mocked up. Tomorrow I will most likely solder the manifolds together.


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## starnovice (Jan 31, 2013)

I like the "industrial" look the copper fittings give the manifold.  It fits with this being an ex-air compressor.

Pat


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 31, 2013)

Steve, 
            looking at your work is like a sit-come to me, come back to my screen to get floored
with awsome work:bow::bow:


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 31, 2013)

starnovice said:


> I like the "industrial" look the copper fittings give the manifold.  It fits with this being an ex-air compressor.
> 
> Pat




Hello Pat!

That's exactly why I wanted to use the plumbing parts. I want it to look nice of course but I want to give a sense of backyard engineering. Does that make sense. I don't know how far that will go now that I am thinking about anodizing some parts.



Thanks CHP!  More coming soon.


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## t_ottoboni (Jan 31, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I have the intake and exhaust mocked up. Tomorrow I will most likely solder the manifolds together.



First of all: very nice build, Steamer! 
Also, what kind of solder are you going to use? Phoscopper or lead (electronics solder)?


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 31, 2013)

t_ottoboni said:


> First of all: very nice build, Steamer!
> Also, what kind of solder are you going to use? Phoscopper or lead (electronics solder)?




I'm not Steamer, that's the originator of the quote at the bottom of my posts. I am stevehuckss396

Steve Huck  the SS 396  is from my old chevy. Alot of people get confused by that. I should change it.


My plan is to use Sil-flow silver solder. The melting point is up around 1000 degrees. I need to make sure it stays together with the exhaust temps. If my exhaust temp goes above 1000 i have bigger problems than melting solder.


I had to sell the old girl. I miss her.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 31, 2013)

*I'm not Steamer, that's the originator of the quote at the bottom of my posts. I am stevehuckss396

Steve Huck the SS 396 is from my old chevy. Alot of people get confused by that. I should change it.*

I'm all confuse now can you clarify this orange quote more


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## doc1955 (Jan 31, 2013)

OOOOOOO NICE ride! I know how you feel I use to have a 68 Charger that I wish I still had.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 31, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> *I'm not Steamer, that's the originator of the quote at the bottom of my posts. I am stevehuckss396
> 
> Steve Huck the SS 396 is from my old chevy. Alot of people get confused by that. I should change it.*
> 
> I'm all confuse now can you clarify this orange quote more



Look at the top left corner of my post. I am stevehuckss396


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 31, 2013)

I know that, _that's the originator of the quote at the bottom of my posts._ that the part that I dont understand


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## Art K (Jan 31, 2013)

I must admit that occasionally I miss my 68 Cyclone
but that aside Steve I really like how your air compressor engine is taking off. Nice using the copper fittings for the intake and exhaust manifolds

Art


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 31, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> I know that, _that's the originator of the quote at the bottom of my posts._ that the part that I dont understand




The quote was

"Being a Master is about having Courage and confidence.
Courage to dream something and then....MAKE IT HAPPEN..."


Steamer was the person who said it in one of my posts. I put his name at the bottom of the quote to credit him for having said it. I have deleted the quote to end the confusion. As for Steamer, he may not at the bottom of my posts but he will live on in my heart.

Other than that, how you doing buddy?


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 1, 2013)

Thanks for clarifying this. I personally think that the  quote was the best description of what you are
and should keep it there, after all "*you are a master*" you had the courage to dream of an air compressor
turning into an IC and now you have the confidence to make it happen

I really love your Hot Rod picture, beeing a Grand Master Certified Technician at GM nothing else to
say that when I eat Alphabet cerial I remove every letter but GM

Beside this life is beeing pretty good for me only the temp swing from -30 to +9 in 24hr is hard to take
I'm on my final drawing of the electronic parts for my next build then chip will start flying

thanks for all those nice pictures, have a good one


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 1, 2013)

The manifolds are done.

Anybody know how to clean up a solder joint? The silver solder has left a black scale on the tubing and fittings. If there is no way I'll sand blast and paint them flat black.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 1, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> I really love your Hot Rod picture, beeing a Grand Master Certified Technician at GM



She had a Dart block and heads. All the best goodies inside and a 871 from BDS.

These are dyno sheets not a guess

94 octane and 7-1/2 Lbs boost  800 Hp
106 octane 10-1/2 Lb boost 1024 Hp
106 octane boost and nitrous 1223 Hp 990 FtLbs

I know the kids are doing way better with modern tech but that aint bad for an old school BBC.


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 1, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> The manifolds are done.
> 
> Anybody know how to clean up a solder joint? The silver solder has left a black scale on the tubing and fittings. If there is no way I'll sand blast and paint them flat black.


Vibratory tumbler with plastic shell in it will do
Then with peanuts shell and they will come out like chrome brass.

even today those numbers for a street BBC are impressive


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 2, 2013)

I dropped a big pile of parts off at the anodize shop and I wont see them again until next Tuesday. With the bench being almost clean I spotted the circuit board sitting there. I now have that scratched off the todo list.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 2, 2013)

I made the cam blank. I think I have decided on the rotation of the engine so I now need to get a fixture built and a cutting table made up.


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 2, 2013)

Hey Steve what was b & s in your 396 did you run roller in it.
I had water in my eyes when I saw the pictures on Pete's blogwoohoo1


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 2, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Hey Steve what was b & s in your 396 did you run roller in it.
> I had water in my eyes when I saw the pictures on Pete's blogwoohoo1



Dart Block  4.25 stroke and 4.5 bore   541CID
Dart 345 heads 2.3 / 1.88 valves
714 lift cam
Roller lifter and rockers
Eagle crank with H-beam rods
8.1:1 blower piston
871 blower
250HP nitrous with 175HP jets
Custom TH350 trans that is stronger than a TH400 with alot less HP loss.
Twin Holley 750 blower carbs

Best of everything!  Drove it for 7 years and only hurt it once. Smashed some valve springs. No big deal.


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 2, 2013)

scaling one never crossed your mind:idea:


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 2, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> scaling one never crossed your mind:idea:




It did about 2 years ago. Finished the engine but never made the blower. It is on the list behind the mini bike. Drawings are good to go.


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 2, 2013)

I specially like the plans in the middle pictureRof} are you planning of eventualy sell plans for th blower?


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 2, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> I specially like the plans in the middle pictureRof} are you planning of eventualy sell plans for th blower?




You can get the plans for the v8 and the blower. They have been available for about 2 years. You can see the 15 month thread here. Pack a lunch it's about 80 pages.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/small-v8-8892/


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 2, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> You can get the plans for the v8 and the blower. They have been available for about 2 years. You can see the 15 month thread here. Pack a lunch it's about 80 pages.
> 
> http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/small-v8-8892/


Steve,
                 thanks for the afternoon at the theater, 127 pages of it
                 now have to go to the hospital I broke my jawth_confused0052th_confused0052


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## Lakc (Feb 2, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> The manifolds are done.
> 
> Anybody know how to clean up a solder joint? The silver solder has left a black scale on the tubing and fittings. If there is no way I'll sand blast and paint them flat black.


I believe you pickle it in citric acid, powder available at the local grocery store.


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## t.l.a.r. eng (Feb 2, 2013)

A weak solution of muriatic acid [pool cleaner] will do the job nicely and leave everything sparkly clean.

Usually one part muriatic to four water will work wonders in just a few minutes soak.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 4, 2013)

Made my fixture today so the camshaft should be done this week. For those of you who have not seen this method of camshaft cutting I attached an explaination.











View attachment Offset turning the camshaft.pdf


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 4, 2013)

I dont get where the go :hDe:    and cant see it in the tutorial. Can you elaborate more


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 4, 2013)

The bottom hole is where the lathe center goes. The top arrow is the actual camshaft. It rotates in the fixture and the pointer allows me to rotate it 5 degrees at a time.


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 4, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> The bottom hole is where the lathe center goes. The top arrow is the actual camshaft. It rotates in the fixture and the pointer allows me to rotate it 5 degrees at a time.


 

HA oh: now I get it, the degree wheel does not rotate
only the pointer is move around to get the proper degree of the cam??


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 4, 2013)

then you cant rotate the pointer 360 degree


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 4, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> then you cant rotate the pointer 360 degree




Yep that's correct. It's all covered in the article


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 4, 2013)

if a make an adapter to have the degree weel adjustable  #1
and secure piano to the bracket #2 then I could go 360 degree
without removing the disk ??


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 5, 2013)

25% Done cutting.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 5, 2013)

Half Way!!


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 5, 2013)

look good,
how fast do you spin it??


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 5, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> look good,
> how fast do you spin it??



As slow as my lathe will go. ????


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 5, 2013)

TADA!

I still have to shape the nose of the lobes by hand so I'm 90%. May tackle that tomorrow and then I have a fuel tank and the disk that holds the magnet for the ignition to make. Oh Yeah, I still have to make the flange to bolt the carb to.


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## agmachado (Feb 5, 2013)

Perfect Steve... very cool again!

Alexandre


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 5, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> As slow as my lathe will go. ????


 
Sorry if I look stupid asking That question :wall:

I usually grind a CAM with a follower, but find your way mutch cleaner.

My father always said  : you better look stupid for 30 seconds by asking a question then staying stupid the rest of your life"


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 6, 2013)

The cam tunnel is complete. The lifter bushings (Bronze) are pressed into the housing and reamed. The lifters are polished and installed. When the camshaft is finished I will install it into the tunnel and the bearings will be pressed into each end making it ready to install.








I also finished the rocker arms. The rollers were pressed into the ends. The riller pin is .125 diameter. One side of the tip was reamed to .124 and the other .125. The center of the roller was reamed .126 so the pin was an easy push thru one side, the roller slipped on and then the pin was sent home thru the tight end. Doing it this way keeps the tip from springing closed and gives the best chance of not pinching the roller. They are a real tight fit side to side and still roll real nice.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 6, 2013)

Cam is done! The cam is installed in the tunnel and the bearings are pressed. I had to put some parts together to see how it's going to look when complete.


----------



## aarggh (Feb 6, 2013)

Wow! Beautiful job Steve! Good enough for the mantelpiece!

cheers, Ian


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Feb 6, 2013)

aarggh said:


> Wow! Beautiful job Steve! Good enough for the mantelpiece!
> 
> cheers, Ian


 
I would have the same opinion. Obviously he can't stand up to question's  or answer that are not in direct relation with HIS opinion. Reed the post and you will understand ;0(


----------



## Maxine (Feb 6, 2013)

Wow, nice job!


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 7, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> I would have the same opinion. Obviously he can't stand up to question's  or answer that are not in direct relation with HIS opinion. Reed the post and you will understand ;0(




What are we talking about?


----------



## starnovice (Feb 7, 2013)

Steve, do you have your own anodizing setup?  If so can you show pictures of it?

Pat


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 7, 2013)

I have the heads cross drilled. I assembled them to see if there were any problems and to get my pushrods done. I never know what length I need until everything is assembled.



















I had the chance to play around and discovered that the camshaft is wrong. The bumps are in the wrong places. I have not had the chance to figure out what happened but if you don't hear from me for a few days you know where i'll be.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 7, 2013)

starnovice said:


> Steve, do you have your own anodizing setup?  If so can you show pictures of it?
> 
> Pat




No.  I had them done. I have so much going on I really don't want to get into that stuff. Besides it's not that expensive. The guy did 18 pieces for 50 bucks. I thought that was reasonable.


----------



## sssfox (Feb 7, 2013)

Perhaps it's backwards?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 7, 2013)

sssfox said:


> Perhaps it's backwards?





Maybe!  I had it rotating one way and then decided to make it rotate the other. Cylinder #1 became #2 and who knows what the ^&%$ I did. 

Not a big deal. I'll make a new one this weekend.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 7, 2013)

I found the problem. When I made my chart I put the data for the #2 exhaust in the #2 intake column and vise versa. I'm going out to confirm that now but everything points to that.


----------



## Lakc (Feb 7, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I found the problem. When I made my chart I put the data for the #2 exhaust in the #2 intake column and vise versa. I'm going out to confirm that now but everything points to that.


Quick, switch the manifolds before anyone notices


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 7, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Quick, switch the manifolds before anyone notices



You think that thought didn't cross my mind!:wall:


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 8, 2013)

Made the new camshaft blank. Tomorrow I should have it completed. Oh yeah, and correctly.








I also made the flange to mount the carb to the manifold. Still need to solder it to the manifold.


----------



## MawitÃ¶ (Feb 8, 2013)

really beautifull job, i´m very envious.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 8, 2013)

Mawitö;209601 said:
			
		

> really beautifull job, i´m very envious.



Thank you sir!


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 8, 2013)

Steve--Beautifull work. I admire your craftsmanship.---Brian


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 8, 2013)

Thanks Brian. I was just looking in on the odds and ends thinking the same thing.


----------



## Lakc (Feb 8, 2013)

What did you wind up pickling your copper pipe in?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 8, 2013)

Lakc said:


> What did you wind up pickling your copper pipe in?




I havent. The Intake I soldered with plumbing solder so it looks ok. The exhaust was done with sil-flo solder. That stuff needed the pipe almost red to get it to flow so the exhaust pipe looks real bad. I am most likely going to sand blast and paint with high heat flat black paint. Chrome is out of the question because of price.


----------



## Lakc (Feb 8, 2013)

If you follow all those boiler builds they come out pretty darn ugly with several different trips under the torch, the citric acid cleans them up nice. 
There is a plating shop at the end of Plymouth Mettetal's runway we use for cad plating. Cheap prices but dont think it will stand up to the heat, works great on suspension parts though. Im guessing you dont want to send it out to jet-hot?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 9, 2013)

I talked to a chrome shop and 300 bucks seems high for 3 little parts.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 9, 2013)

Camshaft #2 is completed. This one looks just like the solid model so hopes are high. All I have left is to make the disk that carries the magnets, the fuel tank, and some sort of base to mount it to.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 10, 2013)

Well thanks again everybody for the positive comments!

All the parts are made except for something to mount it to. Still not sure on that one.

Still need to. . 

Waiting to find a 45 degree valve seat cutter that will work.
Need to terminate the spark plug wires.
Need to wire up the ignition circuit.
Need to "setup the engine, cam timing, ignition timing, ect.
Need to paint a few things.
Need to make a socket to fit the crankshaft so I can start it.

I'm sure I missed a few. Won't be much going on here for a week or so. When I get set and ready, i'll let everybody know. Seat cutter is the big one right now.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Feb 10, 2013)

*Waiting to find a 45 degree valve seat cutter that will work.*

great looking engine Thm: why is the seat cutting a problem 45 degree is standard


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 10, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> *Waiting to find a 45 degree valve seat cutter that will work.*
> 
> great looking engine Thm: why is the seat cutting a problem 45 degree is standard




Brand new they are over 500 bucks for a small set. I have been trolling craigs list and the local tool guys to find a used one. If I don't find one in a week or so I will try to make one. I have something designed already. All I need is a 45 degree cutter with a 1/4 inch pilot that is between 1-3/8 and 1-1/4 diameter. I have irons in the fire.


----------



## Art K (Feb 10, 2013)

Hey Steve,

Would a valve seat tool from a lawn mower engine work? if so a small engine repair shop would have that. I know that earlier there was concern that the flywheel wouldn't stand up to the RPM are you going to use some sort of rev limiter? and lastly what's that car attached to the fender in the photo's?

Art


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 10, 2013)

Art K said:


> Hey Steve,
> 
> Would a valve seat tool from a lawn mower engine work? if so a small engine repair shop would have that. I know that earlier there was concern that the flywheel wouldn't stand up to the RPM are you going to use some sort of rev limiter? and lastly what's that car attached to the fender in the photo's?
> 
> Art




The modern tool is a fancy head with threads in it. They accept carbide inserts and different pilots. Thats what everybody seems to have and or sell now. There are thousands of old style cutters out there, I just need to find one.

The flywheel will only be on when the engine is not running. Display purposes only. I will take it off when starting the engine. I do not want to chance hurting myself or anybody else. I think it's important that it be on there to show that it was a compressor pump.


That would be a 28 ford


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Feb 10, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Brand new they are over 500 bucks for a small set. I have been trolling craigs list and the local tool guys to find a used one. If I don't find one in a week or so I will try to make one. I have something designed already. All I need is a 45 degree cutter with a 1/4 inch pilot that is between 1-3/8 and 1-1/4 diameter. I have irons in the fire.


 
 that diameter is with in motor cycle range
I use to valve seat with a stone and dressing carbide tip to shape it back
a small grinding stone is not availlable anymore???


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 10, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> that diameter is with in motor cycle range
> I use to valve seat with a stone and dressing carbide tip to shape it back
> a small grinding stone is not availlable anymore???




The stones are available but I would need to make a pilot. After mounting the stone it should be dressed before using. I don't have the equipment to grind them in. Also If I remember right the motor has a shaft that is connected to the pilot with some sort of flex joint. That way the motor wont influence the angle of the pilot.


----------



## agmachado (Feb 11, 2013)

Hi Steve,

Your progress is great and the look also is very cool !!!

Cheers,

Alexandre


----------



## Lakc (Feb 11, 2013)

Page 2604, 4522A263 at McMaster, dress it 45 degrees, slide the shank down the valve guide and spin it with a suction cup lapper.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 12, 2013)

The problem would be dressing it to 45 degrees. I don't have one of those diamond tipped dressing tools. The shank is too short. It would barely make it into the guide. If the shank was longer I would start looking for the dressing tip.

Thanks for trying. That was a darn good idea.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 12, 2013)

My spark plug wire terminations and boots showed up today so I got them installed.


----------



## starnovice (Feb 12, 2013)

I sure like the looks of this engine, Steve.  Wish I could get to NAMES to see it in person.

Pat


----------



## t_ottoboni (Feb 12, 2013)

Very nice job, Steve! This engine is coming along nice!!! Can't wait to hear it's sound..

Now the only thing missing will be an "engine air compressor" for your "air compressor engine"!


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Feb 12, 2013)

awsome looking and detailing, ht wire holder and all
the transistor your using for the ignition can climp up to 200/f sitting between fins check
temp when running:fan:
cheers

Luc


----------



## kuhncw (Feb 12, 2013)

Great looking engine, Steve.  I bet this thing will really sound off.

What is the coil you are using?

Regards,

Chuck Kuhn


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 13, 2013)

kuhncw said:


> Great looking engine, Steve.  I bet this thing will really sound off.
> 
> What is the coil you are using?
> 
> ...




The coil is for a two cylinder snowmobile and I think seadoo. Amazon was dumping them a month or so back. There must have been a hundred of them on there. I grabbed 2 of them for around 35 bucks each. Don't remember how much. I'm wondering if a dealer or repair shop was clearing off the shelves to make room for newer parts. They were all 80's and 90's brand new in the box.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 15, 2013)

I couldn't wait any longer so I made my own cutters. I made a 30, 45, and 60 degree cutter. After this pic was taken I knocked down the back side of the teeth with the dremel tool. All seemed to go well and the heads are assembled fully.







So right now the heads are done. All the fittings in the block have been doped and tightened. The block now has oil in it. I assembled all the timing gears and set the cam timing. I am now at the point where I need to clean parts and put them on. I still need to make intake and exhaust gaskets. 

We are in the home stretch!


----------



## petertha (Feb 15, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I made my own cutters. I made a 30, 45, and 60 degree cutter. After this pic was taken I knocked down the back side of the teeth with the dremel tool.


 
Those are really cool cutters!

By dremel grinding the back edges, is that because the cutters were heat treat hardened?

I see the knurl there on the edge, are these cutters intended for hand turning vs. powered in an electric drill or something?

Those radial slots to make the teeth relief, is that using an end mill?

I assume by the 30, 45, 60 deg set you are ending up with a nice thin 45 valve seat contact area & the other 2 sizes are for relief?. Do you have a trick that regulates depth because this must be pretty small amount of material to remove?


----------



## MawitÃ¶ (Feb 16, 2013)

> I couldn't wait any longer



haha who can?, those cutters looks great, i though it would be more complicated to do with more angles, is that the same principle as in D bits cutters?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2013)

petertha said:


> Those are really cool cutters!
> 
> By dremel grinding the back edges, is that because the cutters were heat treat hardened?
> 
> ...




They were not hardened. Just wanted to cut reliefs in the rear of the teeth. 3 of the seats were real good and only needed a quick swipe. One needed more attention. 

Yes they were intended to be turned by hand.

Yes 1/8 inch end mill.

No trick. Just cut a little here and a little there. I use a sharpie to darken the metal and make it easier to see what i'm cutting. Turning by hand removes very little material so over doing it was harder than you think.


----------



## Art K (Feb 16, 2013)

Hey Steve,

I like your solution to the valve seat cutter problem, I will keep that in mind for future reference. Are you planning to bring your straight 8 to names ?

Art


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2013)

Art K said:


> Hey Steve,
> 
> I like your solution to the valve seat cutter problem, I will keep that in mind for future reference. Are you planning to bring your straight 8 to names ?
> 
> Art



Hello Art!


I could bring it if you would like to see it. Would you like to see it assembled or would you rather see it with the head, oil pan, and manifolds off?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2013)

Mawitö;210426 said:
			
		

> haha who can?, those cutters looks great, i though it would be more complicated to do with more angles, is that the same principle as in D bits cutters?




You could get fancy with angles but the job did not require it. I could have gotten crazy with relief cuts and hardening. If I make new ones for something I might.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Feb 16, 2013)

> I could bring it if you would like to see it. Would you like to see it assembled or would you rather see it with the head, oil pan, and manifolds off?


 
do you have pictures of it on HMEM


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> do you have pictures of it on HMEM





I found it!

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/straight-8-a-7451/


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Feb 16, 2013)

> [I found it!
> 
> http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/straight-8-a-7451/ /QUOTE]
> 
> Thanks for the posting ,it's to bad that 90% of the pics are gone


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2013)

I have been getting some PM's on when I think I'm going to start the compressor. I am going to try to answer that question with this update.


The manifolds are sand blasted and painted. The intake is gloss black to match the flywheel. The exhaust pipes are a satin black but they look more flat to me. Couldn't get a gloss in a 1300F degree paint. Still need to make a template so the manifold gaskets can be made. I like to take the time to make templates because my gaskets are near perfect and if I ever need another one I can whip one out in just a few minutes.

Then I need to do the wiring. I have not even looked at how I will go about that. I cant see it taking more than a few hours after I get too it.

Still need to make a socket to crank the motor with a drill motor. I did crank the motor over with the flywheel and could feel definite compression so at least 2 of the seats are good.

Tomorrow is out of the question so if I get some time in the garage during the week, I might try cranking on it by next weekend?

That's where i'm at right now.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> > [I found it!
> >
> > http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/straight-8-a-7451/ /QUOTE]
> >
> ...


----------



## Art K (Feb 17, 2013)

Steve,

As much as I'd like to see it together I think I'd rather see it apart. Now that you have the links fixed I'll have to go back through the build thread and see the pictures.

Art


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 17, 2013)

Art K said:


> Steve,
> 
> As much as I'd like to see it together I think I'd rather see it apart. Now that you have the links fixed I'll have to go back through the build thread and see the pictures.
> 
> Art



No problem, let me know


----------



## Art K (Feb 18, 2013)

Steve,

I'd like to see it apart.

Art


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 1, 2013)

Well some good news finally. I was talking to Roy from S/S ignitions at the NAMES show. He was talking about his board and I asked what the primary resistance on the little coils he has is. He told me they are well under one ohm. Then he told me that he has used the little CDI's to fire full sized coils. I told him my coil was almost one ohm and he thought about it for a second. Told me that it should do the trick. I was going to go home and unsolder the coil off an ignition I have at home. Then he said no need, he sells the board without the coil on it. So i figured why not try it.

Well kiss my A$% it works just fine. We have spark. I need to make a new cover for the enclosure so I can mount a 5 volt regulator and a power port like I use on all my stuff. Im back in the game.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 1, 2013)

Well some good news finally. I was talking to Roy from S/S ignitions at the NAMES show. He was talking about his board and I asked what the primary resistance on the little coils he has is. He told me they are well under one ohm. Then he told me that he has used the little CDI's to fire full sized coils. I told him my coil was almost one ohm and he thought about it for a second. Told me that it should do the trick. I was going to go home and unsolder the coil off an ignition I have at home. Then he said no need, he sells the board without the coil on it. So i figured why not try it.

Well kiss my A$% it works just fine. We have spark. I need to make a new cover for the enclosure so I can mount a 5 volt regulator and a power port like I use on all my stuff. Im back in the game.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (May 1, 2013)

thats realllly good news, you must be a happy man
did he gave you a part number, curious to find out if it would run 
my GM twinn coil also???


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 1, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> thats realllly good news, you must be a happy man
> did he gave you a part number, curious to find out if it would run
> my GM twinn coil also???



Just email Roy and tell him you want the WYSIWYG CDI board.


----------



## BronxFigs (May 2, 2013)

Steve...

Always wanted to follow in your footsteps, and hope one day to know a .001th of what you already forgot.  Always a pleasure to see the work that you tackle, and your projects are both informative and inspirational.

Question, from a novice:
This engine that was just built from a compressor, is it just as good functionally, as a _working_ engine, as it was as a compressor?  You had to add all the bells and whistles to get the original compressor to become an engine, but can it do work, or, is it really just for display?  Given, that the final product is only as good as the designer/machinist, I would guess that you made a functional engine from a compressor.

Also, are compressors, by design, built stronger that comparable gas engines?  So, if you convert a compressor into a gas engine do you have to beef-up certain components, like con-rods, cranks, etc?

Frank


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 2, 2013)

Compressors of the size this one is are comparable to brigs strattons. There is alot of components that are almost the same. If I wanted to I would think it would power a minibike pretty well. The cams are real close. I think my valves are bigger and the CID is going to be more being a twin. 354cc. Mechanically the compressor is better because the bearings are heavy duty compared to a brigs.

The only downfall is camshaft lubrication. The cam not being in the block it will need to be lubed by the user. Not a big deal just need to make sure it gets done.


----------



## chrispare (May 2, 2013)

come on steve just get that thing running. we want to see and here it. 

very nice work by the way
chris


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 2, 2013)

chrispare said:


> come on steve just get that thing running. we want to see and here it.
> 
> very nice work by the way
> chris




You know me, I have to be 100% ready. Remember the V8?


----------



## BronxFigs (May 2, 2013)

SH....thanks for the information.

Frank


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 4, 2013)

Recently Roy started supplying a small sensor mount to insulate the sensor from the case. I think it's supposed to help keep the sensor's from failing. Personally I have never had one fail that I didn't deserve but I thought it might make replacing one easier so I went with it. I had to modify it to get it to work. The mount was shortened and the top was trimmed to clear the magnets. I but the disk that holds the magnets on the shaft, put a sharpie thru the magnet hole and drew a circle. That marks the center line of the magnet.






The magnet disk is installed.






Then the ignition was installed over the magnet disk.






The new cover has a power block and a 5 volt regulator mounted on it.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 5, 2013)

Well I have a starter thingy made and the throttle is temped on there. I'm a little worried about the compression. When I tried to turn it over the battery drill had a hard time and started smoking. I moved over to the "good" drill and oh my god! The motor was jumping all over the place. I had no doubt the rings would be fine and now I know the valves are fine too. The only problem I see now is if I can hold the throttle open with one hand and crank the engine over with the other. My next post might be in the "mistakes, blunders, and boo boos" or the "machining with disabilities" sections. But only until the broken wrist heals.

I'm soaking the fuel tank with gas right now and will give it a final flush and see if it will start in just a few hours.


----------



## BronxFigs (May 5, 2013)

Waiting in anticipation of good things to come with this compressor re-vamp.  An amazing transformation by a the master of the morph!  A silk purse from a sow's ear.

Steve...continue the translation.  Can't wait to see it on You-Tube.


Freank


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 5, 2013)

Done for the day!  Just tore the chuck off my drill.

Need a new plan!


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 5, 2013)

I just ordered a starter for a 20HP, 2 cylinder Briggs Stratton.


The spacer only needs to be .100 thick. If I had to I could make longer push rods. I'm going to put a starter on it and see what happens. 

When the starter comes it will have a gear on it. Is there a way to be able to tell what pitch the gear is so I can make a flywheel. It will need to be 6-7 inches around. I have some steel here somewhere. It will need some teeth so I guess it's time to learn how to cut gears.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (May 5, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I just ordered a starter for a 20HP, 2 cylinder Briggs Stratton.
> 
> 
> The spacer only needs to be .100 thick. If I had to I could make longer push rods. I'm going to put a starter on it and see what happens.
> ...


 
Is this link with software any help

http://www.idleamusements.com/?page_id=54


----------



## canadianhorsepower (May 5, 2013)

*Or this not sure what your looking for*

*Pitch* is the distance between a point on one tooth and the corresponding point on an adjacent tooth.[5] It is a dimension measured along a line or curve in the transverse, normal, or axial directions. The use of the single word _pitch_ without qualification may be ambiguous, and for this reason it is preferable to use specific designations such as transverse circular pitch, normal base pitch, axial pitch.





Pitch






Tooth pitch






Base pitch relationships






Principal pitches


Circular pitch, _p_ Arc distance along a specified pitch circle or pitch line between corresponding profiles of adjacent teeth.Transverse circular pitch, _p_t Circular pitch in the transverse plane.Normal circular pitch, _p_n, _p_e Circular pitch in the normal plane, and also the length of the arc along the normal pitch helix between helical teeth or threads.Axial pitch, _p_x Linear pitch in an axial plane and in a pitch surface. In helical gears and worms, axial pitch has the same value at all diameters. In gearing of other types, axial pitch may be confined to the pitch surface and may be a circular measurement. The term axial pitch is preferred to the term linear pitch. The axial pitch of a helical worm and the circular pitch of its worm gear are the same.Normal base pitch, _p_N, _p_bn An involute helical gear is the base pitch in the normal plane. It is the normal distance between parallel helical involute surfaces on the plane of action in the normal plane, or is the length of arc on the normal base helix. It is a constant distance in any helical involute gear.Transverse base pitch, _p_b, _p_bt In an involute gear, the pitch on the base circle or along the line of action. Corresponding sides of involute gear teeth are parallel curves, and the base pitch is the constant and fundamental distance between them along a common normal in a transverse plane.Diametral pitch (transverse), _P_d Ratio of the number of teeth to the standard pitch diameter in inches.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Normal diametral pitch, _P_nd Value of diametral pitch in a normal plane of a helical gear or worm.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Angular pitch, &#952;N, &#964; Angle subtended by the circular pitch, usually expressed in radians.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 degrees or 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 radians*[edit] Backlash*


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 5, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Is this link with software any help
> 
> http://www.idleamusements.com/?page_id=54




Nope!  Thats for sprockets not gears. I have used sprocketeer 2.0 and it works great.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (May 5, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Nope! Thats for sprockets not gears. I have used sprocketeer 2.0 and it works great.


 
is this any better

http://www.donkersdesigns.com/gear calculation.html


----------



## waynesmotors (May 5, 2013)

Steve I have built 6 compressor engine and had to use 10 in flywheel that weight 10 lb to get them to run good.
They just won't run with a light flywheel.
Wayne


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 6, 2013)

waynesmotors said:


> Steve I have built 6 compressor engine and had to use 10 in flywheel that weight 10 lb to get them to run good.
> They just won't run with a light flywheel.
> Wayne



Aren't you afraid that the cast flywheel will come apart when you rev them up?


----------



## gus (May 6, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Well I have a starter thingy made and the throttle is temped on there. I'm a little worried about the compression. When I tried to turn it over the battery drill had a hard time and started smoking. I moved over to the "good" drill and oh my god! The motor was jumping all over the place. I had no doubt the rings would be fine and now I know the valves are fine too. The only problem I see now is if I can hold the throttle open with one hand and crank the engine over with the other. My next post might be in the "mistakes, blunders, and boo boos" or the "machining with disabilities" sections. But only until the broken wrist heals.
> 
> I'm soaking the fuel tank with gas right now and will give it a final flush and see if it will start in just a few hours.



Hi Steve,

Would love to your engine started,running and roaring away.


Regards

Gus Teng.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 6, 2013)

gus said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> Would love to your engine started,running and roaring away.
> 
> ...




Thanks Gus, we'll get there. I ordered a starter for a briggs 20HP. I will have to make a flywheel with teeth on it. She's a beast so better safe than sorry.


----------



## waynesmotors (May 7, 2013)

Hi Steve
I havn't had any trouble with flywheel coming apart. I put gov. on my engine to keep them from running
to fast. But I have had gov. to stick on first time start up and the engine would run away. They will jump
kindy high if you don't bolt them down. I don't see how fast I can make a motor run I try to see how 
slow I can make it run. 
Wayne


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## t.l.a.r. eng (May 7, 2013)

Pressure cast flywheel that expired on a 3-1/2 horse Techumseh  years ago when I was a kid.

Engine modified ;D 

I can still hear how sudden it stopped! My finger was on the carb throttle until the expanded cooling shroud knocked my fingers away from the carb.

Learned a few things that day. A sand cast scares me even to this day.

Later in life started blowing up steel things drag racing.


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## Lakc (May 7, 2013)

t.l.a.r. eng said:


> Pressure cast flywheel that expired on a 3-1/2 horse Techumseh  years ago when I was a kid.
> 
> Engine modified ;D
> 
> ...



Sounds like a lesson well learned. However, as small as some of the cars are today, no reason you cant adapt a flywheel off something like a 3 cyl Chevy sprint or the like...


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## stevehuckss396 (May 9, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Sounds like a lesson well learned. However, as small as some of the cars are today, no reason you cant adapt a flywheel off something like a 3 cyl Chevy sprint or the like...



never thought of that. i'll look into it after the starter gets here.


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## johnny1320 (May 29, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Done for the day!  Just tore the chuck off my drill.
> 
> Need a new plan!


 
Hi Steve how about a decompression valve like on the old Cummins engines the push tubes had a washer (flange) in the middle with a fork that would hold the intake valve open, crank her over and release the compression, larger singles have it built right into the cam and centrifugal force disables it. just an idea.


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## MCRIPPPer (May 29, 2013)

very cool modifications! i think you need to get rid of the ugly flywheel and machine and anodize a custom one! you could try using a model airplane 12v starter. all you need is a cone in the front of the engine in place of a prop spinner. 

if you have not already sorted out your copper pipe oxidation, here is my experience with it. i have a little experience making jewelry out of brass, bronze, and copper. in order to join pieces, we used hard silver solder which melted at temperatures above 1000 degrees F, so the metal would get considerable oxidation on it, and the flux would crystalize all over it and it looked like crap. we then dropped it in a "pickle" solution which was basically acid. it would clean all the oxide and flux off in a few minutes and leave an etched appearance on the metal. i have experimented with using vinegar with good results. mix white vinegar with a little bit of salt and some H2O2(hydrogen peroxide). if you leave it in too long(several hours) it will start to dissolve the copper! leave it in for a minute or two and rinse it. if there is more black oxide on the copper leave it in a little longer. then sand the extra solder off and polish it up!


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## stevehuckss396 (May 29, 2013)

MCRIPPPer said:


> i think you need to get rid of the ugly flywheel and machine and anodize a custom one! you could try using a model airplane 12v starter. all you need is a cone in the front of the engine in place of a prop spinner.



I have a starter and it wouldn't turn it over. ry drill and that wouldn't do it. Then I did the electric drill and it ripped the chuck right off the drill. I bought a starter for a 20 HP briggs stratton but it spins the wrong way. I am going to make a flywheel and then an idler gear between the flywheel and starter to reverse it. Shes a mean one.


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## MCRIPPPer (May 29, 2013)

wow. it has some serious compression obviously! i think maybe a compression relase and a heavy flywheel might help it. i know that its pretty easy to pull start a 250- 350cc honda generator engine.


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## stevehuckss396 (May 29, 2013)

MCRIPPPer said:


> wow. it has some serious compression obviously! i think maybe a compression relase and a heavy flywheel might help it. i know that its pretty easy to pull start a 250- 350cc honda generator engine.




I think it has more to do with where you are applying the starting torque. When you pull the rip cord on a briggs your not pulling right at the center of rotation like a RC starter does. If I get a couple gears on there the starting torque will be a few inches off center line of rotation and crank a lot easier.

She's 8.5:1


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## johnny1320 (May 29, 2013)

Most small single cylinder engines have decompression lobes on the camshaft it opens the exhaust valve just slightly just before tdc and when it starts it is disabled by centrifugal force. As I said before in case you missed my post Steve. Should be easy for a man of your talent


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## stevehuckss396 (May 29, 2013)

johnny1320 said:


> Most small single cylinder engines have decompression lobes on the camshaft it opens the exhaust valve just slightly just before tdc and when it starts it is disabled by centrifugal force. As I said before in case you missed my post Steve. Should be easy for a man of your talent



I doubt I need it. Just need the right starter


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## NMBRPL8 (May 30, 2013)

Well i read through all this and you sir are a legend! I want to see and hear this thing run, so heres a bit of a tip that i hope helps you out: You can pull the starter you bought apart and make it run backwards, basically set the body of it 180 degrees out should do the trick. We get a few home repairs we have to un-do like that at work (motorbike mechanic by trade) they usually have locating lugs on them to make sure you put them together right, you can just grind them off or do what my customers do and force it on regardless... :/ 
Anyway, give it a shot, depends on the starter but if its the usual permanent magnet type, 180 degrees out should reverse the rotation. If its the other type a little rewiring will reverse the direction.


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## stevehuckss396 (May 30, 2013)

NMBRPL8 said:


> Well i read through all this and you sir are a legend! I want to see and hear this thing run, so heres a bit of a tip that i hope helps you out: You can pull the starter you bought apart and make it run backwards, basically set the body of it 180 degrees out should do the trick. We get a few home repairs we have to un-do like that at work (motorbike mechanic by trade) they usually have locating lugs on them to make sure you put them together right, you can just grind them off or do what my customers do and force it on regardless... :/
> Anyway, give it a shot, depends on the starter but if its the usual permanent magnet type, 180 degrees out should reverse the rotation. If its the other type a little rewiring will reverse the direction.





The motor rotation is not the problem. When the motor spins it throws out the starter gear. It has to spin in that direction to toss out the gear. Thats just the way it's built. It's no big deal I just need to redesign. I think what i'm going to do is make a flywheel with the correct teeth, mount the starter to work, and make a camshaft to reverse the direction of the engine.  I have another project that has been moved to a higher priority until I find a chunk of steel large enough to make a flywheel.


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## NMBRPL8 (May 31, 2013)

Dang  thought they might have a sprag/one way bearing setup, sounds like they are a small car setup. ah well signed up here now will patiently await seeing this thing live, always looked at air compressors and wondered, can't wait to see you finish it 

Oh also if you run into needing valve seat cutters again, mikesxs.net sells a set for motorbikes, $130 ish for the kit, should do the trick for what you've done here, too late now you made some if your own, even better!


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## BronxFigs (Aug 2, 2013)

Last series of postings were 2 months ago.  I hope there's more to this compressor-to-engine conversion.  

I got into this forum after the conversion was started, and I have many questions regarding the thoughts behind many of your construction and machining methods.  I have learned by looking at the pictures and reading through all the postings, explanations, etc. Most of my questions will now be out-of-context.  Sorry.
For example:  Back towards the beginning of the conversion, you needed to machine intake and exhaust valves, and you made them by silver-soldering  the stem and head together, then machining them to dimension.  I also watched through the attached a video showing the construction of the valves.  You used "soft" solder, which has a lower melting point than "hard" solder.  When the engine is running, wouldn't the exhaust gas passing by the soldered joint on the exhaust valve, melt the solder, and cause a disaster if the valve pieces became separated?  I'll ask more questions later.

Can't wait for the the final chapter.

Good luck with the rest of the conversion.


Frank


EDIT:   Totally got my question wrong regarding solder type.  I should have asked why the higher melting point alloy of silver solder wasn't used.  The reference to "soft solder" is a total mistake.

Steve was kind enough to clear up this question in a later post.


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## BronxFigs (Aug 2, 2013)

I will ask this question to the forum members again.  I originally asked a similar question back in March 2013 but didn't get any answers.

The set-up:  
I have read about many of these compressor-to-engine conversions.  Most of these become Hit-and-Miss type-engines, and most become demonstration engines at shows, like Cabin Fever Expo.  So, you convert the compressor and make a running engine.

The questions:  
Can these compressor conversions do real work?  The above conversion outlined by Steve, certainly looks like it has the cajones to do something useful besides just burning gas.  Many conversions come close to having the bore and stroke of some of the antiques, so these conversions must be at least as powerful as some of the old engines.  Are these original compressors-now-engines built strong enough to do consistent work?  Will the bearings last, will the con-rods hold up under loads, etc.  

Generally, are air-compressors designed to be stronger than the equivalent-sized, bore and stroke, gas engine?

Just wondering....


Frank


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 2, 2013)

BronxFigs said:


> I also watched through the attached a video showing the construction of the valves.  You used "soft" solder
> Frank




Hello Frank!

That was not soft solder, that was sil-flo Silver solder. It's melting point is just south of 1000 degrees F


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 2, 2013)

BronxFigs said:


> Can these compressor conversions do real work?  The above conversion outlined by Steve, certainly looks like it has the cajones to do something useful besides just burning gas.  Many conversions come close to having the bore and stroke of some of the antiques, so these conversions must be at least as powerful as some of the old engines.  Are these original compressors-now-engines built strong enough to do consistent work?  Will the bearings last, will the con-rods hold up under loads, etc.
> 
> Generally, are air-compressors designed to be stronger than the equivalent-sized, bore and stroke, gas engine?
> 
> ...



The compressor pump I used internally is real close to what you would see in a briggs stratton engine. I have no doubt it could do "real work" but how much is a mystery. The trouble is luberification. When converting a compressor the camshaft usually ends up outside of the crankcase so some manual oiling needs to be done. Im sure it could do the same work as a briggs but would need more baby sitting.


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## BronxFigs (Aug 3, 2013)

Thank-you Steve;

In my hurry to read, and see everything, I guess I missed the exact alloy/type of solder.  Thanks for the clarification.

Again, thanks for the compressor vs engine, strength opinions. The lube problems that you mentioned just never occurred to me.  Yes, the cam mounted outside of the crank-case has to get some juice too.  I wonder if little, screw-on oil cups, would help keep everything nice and slick.  

Now, I'll sit back and wait for the conclusion of the build, and I'm hoping, the video.  I got my popcorn ready.


Frank


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 3, 2013)

BronxFigs said:


> Thank-you Steve;
> 
> In my hurry to read, and see everything, I guess I missed the exact alloy/type of solder.  Thanks for the clarification.
> 
> ...



It might be a while. I'm waiting to stumble across a piece of steel big enough to make a flywheel and them mount a starter. I'm focused on the blown V8 until that day comes.


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## BronxFigs (Aug 3, 2013)

Thanks Steve,

I went back and looked at the valve-making video again, and I cannot explain why I asked such a stupid question about the silver-solder.  I can't believe I asked about "soft" solder.  I actually wanted to ask you about the _melting points_ of the silver-solder alloy used to make the valves.  Of course, soft solder would be a "poor" choice to say the least.

You were very nice to clear up my mistake.  I must have given you and others a good laugh.  My face is red.

I need to proof-read more accurately before posting questions.

My apologies.  My senility is showing.....

Frank


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 3, 2013)

BronxFigs said:


> Thanks Steve,
> 
> 
> You were very nice to clear up my mistake.  I must have given you and others a good laugh.  My face is red.
> ...




I don't know if you noticed or not but nobody was quick to point out the boo boo. That's the kind of crowd these people are. I believe most around here feel it's more important that we learn and will never tease for asking a question. Don't ever feel like you can't ask a question even if you think it's dumb. I've asked some whoppers myself and i'll do it again someday. There are those on here that will try to steer you right but almost no one will try to make you feel bad about it. There are forums out there were members will beat you up pretty good for dumb questions, this is not one of them.


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## BronxFigs (Aug 3, 2013)

You are so right Steve.  Gracious ladies and gents. here. Not one pointed out my laughable error, and I chose not to delete the whole Q and A postings because I want to keep things in context.  I used to make jewelery and used silver solder all the time.  I knew it came in three melting ranges, but yet, I still worded the soldering question incorrectly, and made myself look like a dope.  

It won't be the last time that I do this either.  : )



Frank


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 3, 2013)

BronxFigs said:


> made myself look like a dope.
> 
> It won't be the last time that I do this either.  : )
> 
> ...




I hope not. That way i won't feel so alone!


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## Art K (Aug 4, 2013)

Hi Steve,
I've been out of town the whole weekend and missed much of this thread. Two things, can you get a used car flywheel and modify it to use on your engine. Its something the local junk yard would have laying around. This may be a stupid idea but if you flip the starter to the opposite side of the engine will that do the trick or will it just turn the same way. I can't picture it in my head.
Art


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 4, 2013)

Art K said:


> Hi Steve,
> I've been out of town the whole weekend and missed much of this thread. Two things, can you get a used car flywheel and modify it to use on your engine. Its something the local junk yard would have laying around. This may be a stupid idea but if you flip the starter to the opposite side of the engine will that do the trick or will it just turn the same way. I can't picture it in my head.
> Art



I thought about it but they are to big. I need something about 6-7 inches in diameter.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 4, 2013)

Art K said:


> Hi Steve,
> I've been out of town the whole weekend
> Art



I forgot to ask, how is the recovery coming. Are you mending ok?


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## Lakc (Aug 5, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I thought about it but they are to big. I need something about 6-7 inches in diameter.


Brake rotor?


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 5, 2013)

Lakc said:


> Brake rotor?



maybe but then I need a large chunk to machine a hub to accept the rotor.


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 5, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> maybe but then I need a large chunk to machine a hub to accept the rotor.


 

Steve-- would a flywheel of a small fishing boat motor be a good start:hDe:


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 5, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Steve-- would a flywheel of a small fishing boat motor be a good start:hDe:



Possibly. I have no idea how big they are.


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## Lakc (Aug 5, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> maybe but then I need a large chunk to machine a hub to accept the rotor.


Hub could be aluminum. Cast or barstock.


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## Art K (Aug 5, 2013)

Hi Steve,
Thanks for asking my bones are healed pretty well, but I am going through PT to retrain the muscles and joint to do what they're supposed to. I today for the first time tied my work apron behind my back (more to the left side) and can touch the back side if my right shoulder. But now the computer for my mill is on the fritz :wall:  and the computer repair shop I usually use has radically changed its business form. In home & $100 up front rather than drop off at the store, makes you want to go hmm.
Art


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## waynesmotors (Aug 8, 2013)

Hi Steve
I have a 7 1/2 in steel flywheel with a starter ring gear on it. It has a taper hole
.550 to .750 and the outside of the hub is 1.350 so it can be drill out some.
It has 6 magnet on the inside  that can be taken out and plastic fins that  
come off. It weight 11 lb. but it can be made lighter. I will give it to you
if you pay the shipping. Shipping will be around $10.00
Wayne


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 8, 2013)

If it has a 10 pitch I might be interested. Do you know?


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## waynesmotors (Aug 8, 2013)

It has 103 teeth so you need a odd no. of teeth on you starter. the teeth are .060 at
the top and around .215 at the bottom. I looked in the machinery's handbook and it 
looks like the 10 pitch is a little taller so this one may be a 12 pitch. I think this flywheel
is off a 8 HP Brigg. Sorry I don't have the starter for it.
Wayne


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## waynesmotors (Aug 9, 2013)

I know a man that has a barn full of junk engine. I may be able to 
get a match pair for $20. or $30. He might have one that is a 10 
pitch. It may have to be a 10 or 12 in. flywheel.
Wayne


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 9, 2013)

10 or 12 inch is way too big. Bummer. No big deal I appreciate you taking the time to look. Thank you!!


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 9, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> 10 or 12 inch is way too big. Bummer. No big deal I appreciate you taking the time to look. Thank you!!


 
Steve,
can you post a little bit more about the specs that would work
it's a shame not to see such a beautiful project sitting on the shelf
and there is enough person around this group finding the right thing
shouldn't be a problem:hDe: 

cheers


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 9, 2013)

The flywheel isnt the only hold up. I have to make a camshaft to reverse rotation on the engine if Im going to mount the starter inboard. I havent decided what I want to do. I have turned my focus to other things right now so I am not worried about it right now. Itll get finished sooner or later.


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## BronxFigs (Mar 5, 2015)

General Questions for Steve Huck, and other Forum Members.... sorry for these late questions...

I am going to do my best to be clear in asking for some additional information regarding the design of these fabricated heads which were used to convert the compressor into a gas engine:

Referring to post #15:
WHY was a 20 degree hole drilled into the head,/combustion chamber instead of a perpendicular hole, to locate the spark plug?  Do spark plugs perform better when this hole is drilled at an angle?  Would have a straight up spark plug worked just as well?

How much of a spark plug's electrode should protrude into the combustion chamber?  What commercially available spark plug(s) would be a good choice for this application?

**********************************************************************************************************
Referring to post #40:
Is there a rule of thumb that will help in determining how long a rocker arm should be....and where the pivot should be located?  The pivot point will affect valve lift, breathing, etc.  Did I read that lift should be 1/4 of the valve diameter?  HELP!

When a rocker arm uses a roller, should the roller be hardened...be left at the same hardness as the valve stem...be softer than the valve stem?  My gut tells me that replacing a worn out roller, would be far easier than replacing a valve because the stem tip got chewed up.

****************************************************************************************************************

Referring to post # 46:
Lifter Guide Bushings....what's the best material for these bushings?  Bearing Bronze....Oilite...Brass?

How strong/stiff should the valve springs be?  I have no clue how you guys figure the spring specs.

******************************************************************************************************************


Apologies for the amateur-ish questions.  It's best to go to experts for advice, than to search endlessly, and still be left with doubts.  I could have sent a private message to Steve, but your collective answers, and opinions  might help some other would-be engine makers.

I want to do my best in trying to fabricate, from bar-stock and weldments,  a large, one-cylinder, (approx. 4,00" X 5.00" B/S) air-cooled, engine, using this "Huck Head" design.  I like this particular head because it seems to be fairly simple to make by using Aluminum plate, and  parts made from some cheapo bar-stock....no castings!...that's the best part.   My skills are basic level, but I'll have guidance and help, when I get into trouble.  

So....I'll need an to make an air-cooled cylinder/head combo...a built-up crankshaft, a crank-case with some bearings, get/make a carb. and find  a very simple ignition system.  I'm not too worried about the piston/rings/con-rod, or, crank-case... (I'll use either bar-stock for the piston, or use a commercially available piston/rings and use welded construction for the con-rod and crank-case).  The carb...I have no clue what I need, or, what I will use....ditto...ignition system.  I also have no idea what I'm in for with this engine-build, but I'm gonna give it a good try.  Even a total failure can be fun...I think.  I was inspired to make a large engine from following this Compressor-to-Gas Engine morph, and also by following the vintage, 1906 engine/motorcycle, and Vintage V-Twin engine builds on the MadModder Forum.  It can be done.

Suggestions, please, and many thanks for any help.


Frank


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 5, 2015)

BronxFigs said:


> Referring to post #15:
> WHY was a 20 degree hole drilled into the head,/combustion chamber instead of a perpendicular hole, to locate the spark plug?  Do spark plugs perform better when this hole is drilled at an angle?  Would have a straight up spark plug worked just as well?
> 
> How much of a spark plug's electrode should protrude into the combustion chamber?  What commercially available spark plug(s) would be a good choice for this application?




The 20 degree angle is there to give greater clearance where the sparkplug wire attaches to the plug. Keeps the wiring away from the rockers.

The sparkplug's electrode doesn't even have to be in the combustion chamber to get a running engine. That being said, it is best to have it in the chamber for performance.

Plug choice is a crap shoot. Trial and error.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 5, 2015)

BronxFigs said:


> Referring to post #40:
> Is there a rule of thumb that will help in determining how long a rocker arm should be....and where the pivot should be located?  The pivot point will affect valve lift, breathing, etc.  Did I read that lift should be 1/4 of the valve diameter?  HELP!
> 
> When a rocker arm uses a roller, should the roller be hardened...be left at the same hardness as the valve stem...be softer than the valve stem?  My gut tells me that replacing a worn out roller, would be far easier than replacing a valve because the stem tip got chewed up.




Personally I design rockers so the pushrod gives as straight a push as possible. The pivot is up to you depending on the lift you want. If the cam lifts .100 and you want .100 valve lift then you would go dead center. If you want .200 valve lift you would shift in the direction of the pushrod. The more you shift the more stress you put on that side of the valve train. Lifters, pushrods, and that side of the rocker is stressed more. I'm not an engineer so I cant help with the "how much"

Rule of thumb is 1/4 the valve size for lift is good for most engines.

As far as material goes, depending on how much you run it, hardening won't be needed. If you plan on doing actual work with the engine then I would harden both roller and valve. Material for the parts, Not an engineer.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 5, 2015)

BronxFigs said:


> Referring to post # 46:
> Lifter Guide Bushings....what's the best material for these bushings?  Bearing Bronze....Oilite...Brass?
> 
> How strong/stiff should the valve springs be?  I have no clue how you guys figure the spring specs.




Valve guides I use bronze. Brass would be too soft unless the valves are tiny. My V8 has 1/4 inch valves so I used brass. The compressor has 1.175? so bronze was used. Where the bronze/brass line is would be up to you.

I figured my springs by looking what is used in a similar engine. Briggs/Stratton engines had about the same bore, stroke, valve size, and cam lift as mine so I ended up with a spring that was just a hair stiffer than the stock Briggs spring.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 5, 2015)

Hope all that helps. These suggestions are just what I do in my garage. Don't think you have to stick to these suggestions. There is no engineering involved, just seat of the pants decisions.


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## BronxFigs (Mar 5, 2015)

Steve....

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer and explain some of your choices.  The devil is always in the small details.  I'll  have to come close to duplicating what you do in your garage if I ever hope to make a spinning engine.  Inspiration is not my problem, I got plenty of that.  However, knowledge in respect to engine-building...not so much.  But, I'm willing to try. 

So...I ask questions, and I am very thankful that you guys are always willing to help, and give me some answers.


Frank


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## BronxFigs (Mar 6, 2015)

Questions:

This may be obvious to some, but not to me....
How are the valve guides installed into the head?  Are they just pressed in, so they could be removed in the future, for whatever reason?  Are the intake and exhaust passages located and drilled first, _then_ are the valve guides installed and drilled  for the intake and exhaust passages?  Are the intake/exhaust passages the same size in diameter?

Re: Spark plugs in aluminum heads....will they/can they seize?  Can thread-seizing in aluminum become a problem?

Thanks,
Frank


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## digiex-chris (Mar 6, 2015)

Very cool. Signing on to watch!


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 6, 2015)

BronxFigs said:


> Questions:
> 
> This may be obvious to some, but not to me....
> How are the valve guides installed into the head?  Are they just pressed in, so they could be removed in the future, for whatever reason?  Are the intake and exhaust passages located and drilled first, _then_ are the valve guides installed and drilled  for the intake and exhaust passages?  Are the intake/exhaust passages the same size in diameter?
> ...




My valve guides are pressed into the head with a little green loc-tite on them. I drill the passages first and then press the valve cage in and then just redrill. It makes no difference what way you do it and it actually makes more sense to press first and then drill but i'm not all that bright.


Any sparkplug in an aluminum head should have a little no-ox grease on it to keep it from seizing and or corroding weather it be a model or the real thing.


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## BronxFigs (Mar 6, 2015)

Steve- and others....

Can't thank you enough for all the help, the explanations, and of course, the patience, when going over all the little details.  You have given me a good education.

Frank


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## tombeng (Mar 7, 2015)

Steve,
Do you have enough meat on the flywheel to cut teeth for the ring gear?
Several small mower engines have ring gears built into the flywheels,
or you could cut one out of plate.
With the high cranking resistance, I have to ask: what is the compression
ratio?
FYI, the max safe rim speed of cast sheaves is usually considered to be 6500 fpm.
I am interested in your engine build because I am using the same compressor in my shop. It always looked like engine material to me! A great build, I look forward to seeing it run. Do you have plans to put it on anything?
Thanks,
Tom Bowman


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 8, 2015)

tombeng said:


> Steve,
> Do you have enough meat on the flywheel to cut teeth for the ring gear?
> 
> With the high cranking resistance, I have to ask: what is the compression
> ratio?




There is a spot where it could be done but it being cast I would never use it. Plate would be the safer way to go.

I think it calculated out to almost 9:1


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