# engine making. possibly helpful.



## Speedy (Jan 5, 2010)

found this cool site that sells Cox engine parts, they have a bulk section and seems good.
maybe the crank cases or piston's can be used for projects.

would be cool to buy the 4 engines and make a v4.

http://coxengines.ca/home.php?cat=14&sort=orderby&sort_direction=0&page=2

http://coxengines.ca/product.php?productid=180&cat=14&page=1


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## rake60 (Jan 5, 2010)

I really like the the old Cox .049 engines.
I still have two old line control airplanes from that era.

I also have an .049 that I found in the mud at a scrap yard one day.
It was seized up, the prop was broken off and the glow head burnt out.
I picked up the parts at a local hobby shop for a total cost of $10
No one was more surprised than me when it started up.





See those reddish speckles on that board that it is mounted on?
Even if you don't really think it will start, it's always a good idea to get 
your finger back out of the way when the snap starter spring is released.
:-\ 

I never thought about using the Cox parts in a build.
Interesting thought!

Rick


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## GailInNM (Jan 5, 2010)

Speedy,
You can have a lot of fun with the Cox engine parts. I have 4 engines that I made using the piston & cylinder from them. Roger Schroeder had a construction series called the Simple Single that was published in Strictly IC magazine that used the piston, cylinder and glowplug from them. It was quite popular and easy to build. There were a few mistakes in the article, most notable was the wrong thread specification for the glowplug and cylinder to crankcase threads. He called out 44 TPI instead of the correct 40 TPI on the threads. Since the threads did not engage much, if you made the threads loose enough they would work.

E-bay still has lots of parts for Cox engines. Piston-cylinders typically go for about $4 to $5 for the pair if you buy 4 or more. A few years ago I was able to buy complete Cox "Sure Start" engines for about $5 on E-bay so I bought a small stock. Used most of them up, but think I still have 3 or 4.

A V4 would be a little of a challenge to do in 2 stroke because the separation of the crankcase areas to get fuel transfer, but an inline 4 would not be terrible. I have thought about an inline twin to use the Cox cylinders and doing it in the same manner that I am using on the Lobo Twin that I am currently building. But, I have other things that I think I would rather work on for the next project after the Lobo. 

Gail in NM


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## cobra428 (Jan 5, 2010)

There was an article in MEB a while a go on an in-line 4. Go to MEB site and look at the covers in was on the cover

Tony


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## GailInNM (Jan 5, 2010)

Thanks Tony.
I had forgotten about Jerry James Hex-2 and Hex-4 engines.









And for a bit of inspiration as to what can be done:
http://modelenginenews.org/cardfile/tarantula.html

And finally a couple of mine loosely based on Schroeders Simple Single.
Gail in NM


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## cobra428 (Jan 5, 2010)

No Problem Gail,
I was looking into a 5 cyl radial I saw "somewhere"

Tony


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## Speedy (Jan 5, 2010)

wow lots of responses 
the little engines sure are cool. my dad has 2 or 3 of them from back in the day.
I know one is a sure start.

what got me going on the idea of using them as a building platform or for inspiration is that they would fit the taig and sherline (eww still need to figure that situation out).

Gail
is the second picture still glow? or is it spark?
looks like a odd glow plug to me.

I want to build a small rc car with a small water cooled jacket.
have tubing that would be about the right size for a cage frame.

is the inline hard to build? the inline 2 hex looks manageable. 
then again I say that to allot of things and never even built anything ???


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## cobra428 (Jan 5, 2010)

Speedy,
Years ago they sold a regular glow plug conversion kit. This way you just replaced the plug and not the whole head.

Tony


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## Speedy (Jan 5, 2010)

thank you Tony 
I did a search after you saying that and found someone selling them.
also thier is a diesel head for them also!! coool.

cox vtwin
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQx9MouMODc[/ame]


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## bentprop (Jan 5, 2010)

I made my own plug conversion by the simple expedient of drilling out an expired glow head,and tapping a 1/4 glow plug thread.Never tried it on an engine though.
I did run two engines on a pusher A-frame type aircraft.They ran in opposing directions to minimize torque roll.You simply started one engine in reverse,using a normal tractor prop!


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## GailInNM (Jan 5, 2010)

Speedy,
All the engines in the photos that I showed are glow plug. They are all standard Cox glow heads except the right hand engine in the Simple Singles photo. It is a standard 1/4-32 short reach glow plug in a home made head adapter. As Bentprop also said, you can rework a standard Cox head to accept 1/4-32 plugs also.

I also made a compression ignition head for one of mine. 

The Hex series engines are supposed to be very easy to build. I have not built one of them so cannot speak with experience on them. The plans for the Hex-2 were in Model Engine Builder magazine issue #9 and the Hex-4 in issue #14. Back issues are available from the publisher. Jerry also sells the plans on his web site:
http://www.jamesengine.com/index.htm
I would go with the back issues of MEB if purchasing them.
Jerry's website has cut away drawings of the engines. Only tricky part in building the is cutting the 17/32-40 threads. Jerry did have taps for that (still may) but they are expensive ($44). Of course that is a problem if you build any engine with the Cox cylinder.

Gail in NM


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 5, 2010)

I made a few of those a while back. Someday i'll try to fire them up. Used to get a complete 049 shurestart for 7 bucks. I would get 10 at a time.


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## Speedy (Jan 6, 2010)

Steve!
those are crazy nice. the radial is WICKED.
is that of your own design?

also, where did you get your tap for the cox cylinder?
possibly are you done with yours? :big: a machinist done with a tool? is that possible.

I have the plans for the hex 2 ;D
talking with James the creator of the hex, Mike Rehmus aswell as Ron Chernich (I am sure you are all familiar with these names)
and the consensus is that I can build it.

what a great bunch of guys, lots of knowledge.
aswel as everone on HMEM :bow:


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## cobra428 (Jan 6, 2010)

stevehuckss396
NICE Steve

Tony


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 6, 2010)

Speedy  said:
			
		

> is that of your own design?
> 
> where did you get your tap for the cox cylinder?
> 
> and the consensus is that I can build it.





Yes the radial is my design. 

I bought the tap from Jerry. It is expensive but very good quality. There is no way I will ever part with it.

If you think you can build the Hex2 then you are probibly right.

I started to build the Hex2 from one of Jerry's castings but ruined it. 

Let me know if you decide to build it and i can send you the modifications for the prop hub and other fancy pieces. I also have Jerry's glow drivers pre-made for $30 a pop.


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## Speedy (Jan 6, 2010)

hi Steve.
do you have plans for the radial? do you have video of it running?
I am talking with the new owner of COX he is in canada. hopefully I can get everything I need.
I want to build this 

I contacted Jerry about the tap. he recently sold his last but might have a used one.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 7, 2010)

Speedy  said:
			
		

> hi Steve.
> do you have plans for the radial? do you have video of it running?



Yes I have plans for the radial.

I have never even tried to start it. The glow plugs require about 2.2 amps of 1.5 volt power. That would be 20 amps to glow all the plugs. It is a very impractical engine. I did talk to a guy who uses a similar 5 cylinder version on a RC plane.

If you intend to run this thing i have plans for a 5 cylinder version that just might run!! I have not built it so . . . . . .


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## Speedy (Jan 10, 2010)

will see about that one after the hex 2.
still waiting to hear about the tap, since my lathe cant do threading.


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## Edc (Mar 25, 2010)

Hello all, this willl be my first post. Im relatively new to machining but not to glow power ,and already have a number of cox engines. I'd very interested in building a hex2 (a pair in fact).  If anyone could direct me to a set of blueprints that would be great! Im afraid Jerry James site wont display for me. 

Thanks
Ed


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 25, 2010)

Welcome to the forum Ed.
There's a Welcome thread where you can tell us a little more about yourself.
I'm sure there are several people who would be interested in your build.
Sorry I can't help with blueprints.


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## Speedy (Mar 27, 2010)

hi Edc.
the plans are very well made for the hex 2 and go thru each step in the machining process 
here is the email that is on his webpage.
[email protected]

I am getting exited to start my build. just waiting till school is done on april 4th.

might need to sort out my sherline mill first :-[

hex 2 will be powering something coooool!


please keep everyone updated with your build.


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## Tin Falcon (Mar 27, 2010)

> will see about that one after the hex 2.
> still waiting to hear about the tap, since my lathe cant do threading


.

Speedy: Sherline does make and sell a theading attachment. About $ 120.00 us I know may be a bit pricey for you but figured I would throw out the info. 
Tin


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## Speedy (Mar 27, 2010)

actually Tin I didnt know.
I will investigate.

James has the taps in but it will cost me above 50$ to get one to me. 
this threading attachment sounds good as I can thread anything. but then I need to get a 4 jaw chuck.

right now I am thinking of making everything then going to a machine shop and see if they can help me out with threading it on a lathe.


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## Tin Falcon (Mar 27, 2010)

Instruction manual

http://www.sherline.com/3100inst.htm
photo





Tin


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## Speedy (Mar 27, 2010)

ahhh Tin.
what has slipped my mind is that I have a taig lathe and sherline mill.
woooops


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## Tin Falcon (Mar 27, 2010)

Oh bother your sig line has the info in front of my face just need to read it. the right info would help. 
Ok look here a bit Rube Goldberg but looks like it works. 
http://www.cartertools.com/brooketh.html
And another simpler idea
http://www.emachineshop.com/machine-shop/Taig-Lathe/page123.html
interesting accessories
http://www.positiveflow.com/taigacc.htm
Tin


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## Blogwitch (Mar 27, 2010)

Might be a little off course with this, but during my model boating life, I made a water cooled 049 with a fully machined brass cooling jacket with the cylinder definned and force fitted in, standard glo plug fitted into custom made head, brass flywheel and a proper back mounted R/C carb to replace the reed type valve. Even though it ran very well, I never did get it into a hull, and gave it away many years ago. I still have a few of the proto bits about somewhere. Ballraced crankcase was fairly easy to do, and very worthwhile.

One of my dreams was to do the same with the 010, but it seems that the rear mounted carburettor kits for these tiny engines are no longer available. It would have made a great R/C I/C boat of about 8 to 9" long, especially with the latest micro R/C units.

Bogs


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## Speedy (Mar 27, 2010)

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> Might be a little off course with this, but during my model boating life, I made a water cooled 049 with a fully machined brass cooling jacket with the cylinder definned and force fitted in, standard glo plug fitted into custom made head, brass flywheel and a proper back mounted R/C carb to replace the reed type valve. Even though it ran very well, I never did get it into a hull, and gave it away many years ago. I still have a few of the proto bits about somewhere. Ballraced crankcase was fairly easy to do, and very worthwhile.
> 
> One of my dreams was to do the same with the 010, but it seems that the rear mounted carburettor kits for these tiny engines are no longer available. It would have made a great R/C I/C boat of about 8 to 9" long, especially with the latest micro R/C units.
> 
> Bogs



hi Bogs no no, fits in well here 
some of that seems like what I would like to do to my saito 80 gas conversion engine.

it sounds like you made major improvements! do you have pictures?
I wouldnt mind trying out new things.


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## Blogwitch (Mar 27, 2010)

Speedy,

This was done many years ago (at least 25), and taking pictures as we do nowadays would have cost loads of pennies, films, negatives, printing etc. So only very special articles got the piccy treatment.

If I can find my little box of leftover bits, I will take some digital shots of what we got up to.

Bogs


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## Speedy (Mar 27, 2010)

hi Bogs.
that would be great to see what you have in your leftover bits


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## Blogwitch (Jun 17, 2010)

Michael gave me a gentle nudge stickpoke stickpoke this morning, to remind me about finding a little engine that I used to work on many years ago.
You usually have to remind me to do things as my memory isn't as good as it used to be.

This is about the only complete 061 (1cc) engine that I still have that started to have mods done to it. The Cox series were not as robust as this one as they were usually a different design, using a rear induction reed valve. This one has front induction with an R/C carb.
Basically, to get it ready for use in a model boat, all that was required was to fit a front bearing to take the weight of the flywheel and to water cool the combustion chamber because it would not have air flowing thru the fins if buried down in a hull.

So this is the engine stripped down to it's component parts, except for the silencer, as that just fit as normal with no mods.







The first thing that was done was to modify the nose of the crankcase to take the large slimline ball race, making sure you still left most of the bronze bearing that was already in there. This called for VERY accurate machining to make sure that they were both in line, otherwise the crank would just jam up.







The water jacket was made by silver soldering together two parts, the outer had fins on to aid with cooling, and the inner section had a channel cut into it that allowed water to flow around inside, from the inlet stack to the outlet stack. You didn't need to have too much water thru it, otherwise you could cool the engine too much and it wouldn't get up to working temp, and thus max power. A little clamp on the inlet pipe allowed you to fine tune the flow. The water was supplied by a little bent tube facing into the flow of water from the propeller under the back of the hull.







A side view. The hole in the centre was bored to be a wringing fit onto the previously machined cylinder, which had the fins machined down to a very good parallel fit.







This is how it fitted, clamped down by the cylinder head. No water actually came into contact with the original parts of the engine, the heat was conducted away purely by the surface areas in contact with each other.






As I stated before, I would have loved to have been able to do this mod on an 010 sized engine, but it seems that no one does the micro R/C carb conversions any more, they are just a start and scream engine.

Bogs


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## Speedy (Jun 18, 2010)

no worries on the nudge 
BOGSS!!!
thank you soo much!
very useful to me, I would have never even thought of a bearing on the nose. and your system of cooling!

I am wondering how you soldered the cooling jacket? what is the silver ish looking ring around the center of the brass jacket?

also, coxcanada sells a carburetor for the engine but I think its a .74. 
lots of new companies have stepped into making these small engines but they are very different design with lots of cooling fins.

I think I will try your mods and fool around on a engine to make a boat


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## Blogwitch (Jun 18, 2010)

Michael,

The 'silver ring' is the silver soldered joint where the two parts were joined together.

See C-0-C for details.


John


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