# 1/4 Scale Rider-Ericsson Pumping Engine



## b.lindsey

I first saw this engine 12-13 years ago at the NAMES show where Mr. Myers was showing his casting kits. Should have picked it up then at the show but didn't, however it immediately went onto the wish list! I've had the castings for a year or so now but was letting them "age" while finishing up the Briggs project. I hope to do as much justice to this engine as Orrin did on his 1/4 scale model back in October of 2010 when it graced the Banner of HMEM. As my usual project go, this one is substantially larger than most as the finished model should stand some 18" high with smokestack. The contents of the kit are shown in photo 1. I began with the base for the engine and photo two shows the underside of the base after milling the edges square and flycutting.


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## b.lindsey

The legs that support the base and engine are just over 6" high and gracefully curved which looks nice but presents a few problems as to holding them for machining and making them come out as a matched pair. I opted to do this by drilling the mounting holes in the bottoms of the legs (photo 1 below) and mounting the legs butted up against each other on a piece of plate aluminum (photos 2 & 3) holding the top of the legs together with some wood strips and a c-clamp and adjusting as needed to get the still unmachined tops of the legs as even and horizontal as possible. While a relatively solid set-up, the top of the legs were still 6" above the mounting plate so a series of light cuts (.005") were made across both leg tops until I got down to good flat and "matched" surfaces for mating to the underside of the base (photo 4)


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## b.lindsey

Then it was back to the base to machine the mounting pad for the flywheel support bracket and the ring where the cylinder will eventually mount and drilling the 3 corner holes for mounting the legs (photo 1). These are through holes with threaded holes in the legs for a stud which sticks up through the base and the legs are then secured by nuts on the top of the base (photo 2). This will all need to be dis-assembled as there are additional holes which must be machined into both the top and underside of the base for mounting the cylinder and flywheel bracket. That wil be the next thing done then on to the mounting bracket.


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## lazylathe

Will be following this build closely!!! ;D
I have the same set of castings also "Aging"
Waiting for the right amount of expertise to attack the project!

Looking good so far!!

Andrew


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## hitandmissman

Looks like you are off to a great start. I will be watching this as I have the 1/8 engine from Mr. Myers.


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## b.lindsey

Welcome aboard Andrew and hitandmiss man. I have always thought this engine has one of the most fascinating motions of any and with the integral pump it actually does something as well. I'll try to keep this one shorter than my last project :big:

Bill


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## rhitee93

I'll enjoy watching this one.


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## lazylathe

Thanks Bill!!
Interested to see how you tackle the brass globes!! ;D

I also love the motion of these engines!
Fascinating. :big:

Andrew


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## vcutajar

Bill

I will be following your progress also.

Vince


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## b.lindsey

Today I got most of the flywheel bracket machining done. The first couple of pictures show the set up with the bracket casting lined up as well as a rough casting can be using a dial test indicator. The two bolsters were then machined with the larger one .200" lower than the smaller one. Then the tap drill hole was made in the smaller bolster and everything was then referenced from that point as the origin since that is how the print is dimensioned. The two flats were then machined at right angles to one another. One will attach to the base and the other to the cylinder casting eventually. This is shown in the last two pictures.


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## b.lindsey

The larger bolster was drilled to 1/2" and then bored out to .686-.687 in order to accept the B-88 needle bearings called for which arrived in the mail yesterday. There are still a couple of things to do yet, mainly finishing off the opposite side of this large bolster, pressing the bearings in, and drilling the holes on each of the two mounts for attachment to the base and cylinder. That's it for today's update.


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## b.lindsey

Short update today but still progress. The upper bolt pattern on the base for mounting the cylinder was drilled and will be tapped 6-32. The 6 bolt patterm on the underside for mounting the hot cap will be done tomorrow and that will finish up the base. In addition the flywheel bracket was finished up with the two holes drilled in each mounting foot, the far side of the large bolster finished to the called for width, and the two bearings pressed in.


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## lazylathe

That is some great progress Bill!!!

I have not yet studied the plans...
Do they call for the use of needle bearings?
I am sure they will make it a nice smooth runner!!

Also how did you go about marking out the bolt hole pattern?

Andrew


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## moconnor

Hello Bill,

Glad to see a build being documented of this kit as I also have one waiting in the wings. Great job so far, both on your progress and the documentation. Thanks for your efforts, it is appreciated!

Bet you are glad to have the school shop at your disposal for the larger castings. If I remember correctly, you have a Sherline lathe in your home shop. That cylinder looks like a challenge due to the length and cast surfaces for chucking/ clamping and a full size lathe will certainly make the job civilized.

I will look forward to your progress.

Kind regards,
Mike


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## b.lindsey

Andrew,

The plans do call for two Torrington B-88 needle bearings. I found these at Boca Bearings for arounf 6.95 each and had them within 2 days. For the bolt hole pattern, I drew it up in AutoCad (see the .pdf below). Since the pattern is symmetrical the dimensions shown are simply repeated, with only their signs changing depending on the quadrant you are drilling in at the moment. Coincidently, I had purchased a Machinist Calc Pro earlier this week and it can also compute bolt circles. I ran it through the calculator also and the results were identical. 

Keep in mind the plans were drawn in 1977 and I don't think have been updated since. Mine still show the firebox as a sheet metal fabrication though the casting kit now includes a casting for that as well, so you are kind of own your on on that one as to mounting it, etc. I have also noticed that some oof the tap drill callouts as well as mating clearance hole callouts are not current standards. In one case a 7/64" (.109") tap drill is called out for a 6-32 threaded hole and the clearance hole on the mating part is shown as a #18 (.169"). Current standards call for a #36 tap drill (.1065") and a #25 (.1495") for a free clearance fit...or #27 for a close fit. I have gone through an marked the plans to the current standards. I'll keep you posted on any other similar things I find.



View attachment Bolt Pattern.pdf


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## b.lindsey

Mike, guess we were posting at the same time. Indeed the school shop will be used more on this build. The larger 13 x 40 lathes should handle the cylinder casting nicely as well as the 9" flywheel. I do still expect to do some of the smaller bar stock parts on the Sherline units at home...that way I can get some things done oveor the weekend also. Thanks for checking in...and hopefully this log may be helpful to others who have this one "waiting in the wings" 

Bill


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## Blogwitch

Bill,

I too will be following along with great interest because I want to build something very similar from barstock sometime in the future. I have a couple of sets of plans, and the way you go about yours should show me how to tackle it.

BTW, it pays to have a look at the posts on here before buying programs. There are a lot about in the public domain.

Here are a couple I brought to the members attention less than a month ago.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=17916.0

BTW, make sure you read the website instructions on the second one before downloading.


John


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## b.lindsey

John, I don't see any reason it can't be made as a bar stock project and had a similar thought as to doing that some day only in a much smaller version. Thanks for the links to the software also. The Machinist Calc Pro I referred to is a physical calculator which admittedly I bought mainly as a toy, though I already have gotten used to having it handy for things like tap and clearance dril sizes, bolt circles, and easy metric/inch conversions for linear, area, and volume which comes in handy when working with students and their projects. I can still do trig the old fashioned way with my $9.95 calculator and the DRO's here at school have calculators built into them including bolt circles, but this "toy" i can take from my desk to the shop or wherever. It comes in a nice rugged rubberized case too, Even so, I will definitely check out your software recommendation for inclusion on the home PC.

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Today's update covers some initial work on the cylinder casting. This was all done on the larger lathe at work. The lower portion that fits into the base was machined to diameter and length followed by machining the section above the mounting ring until it was the same diameter and the ring the proper height. Finally the lower ID was bored out to the proper dimension and a trial fit to the base and flywheel bracket. I hope to work on some of the smaller parts at home over the weekend on the Sherline equipment.


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## b.lindsey

Made some progress today on the beam pivot bracket. There are no set-up pictures since it is straightforward locating and milling and drilling so the below pictures only show the components and sub-assembly. More tomorrow though. The parts, especially the brass caps are just rough machined and not finished off yet and once assembled with screws the .251" through hole has to be drilled as well as a small #60 hole in each cap for oiling.


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## b.lindsey

Today's progress finished up the beam pivot assembly bu drilling and reaming the .251" through hole and adding oiling holes in the top of each cap as shown in the first two photos. Then I wanted to get a little done on the firebox. There was a good bit of flash on the parting lines of the casting which were filed off and a few other areas smoothed out. After getting a square bottom on the belt sander the casting was put in the vise so the top end could be machined parallel to the bottom and again machining off substantial flash on the top end of the casting (photo 3). The the firedoor opening was opened up as it was pretty well flashed over (photo 4).


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## b.lindsey

The last two shots for today are the semi-finished firebox and the underside of the base plate which now has its hole pattern drilled. Nore tomorrow hopefully.


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## lazylathe

Coming along nicely Bill!!!

I think i need another mock up pic though... ;D

Andrew


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## Blogwitch

Sorry Bill,

I live so far in the past, I didn't know such tools existed, it's marvelous what they can do nowadays with a few wiggly amps, silicon and a bit of plastic. 
I do have one that was bought for me by a good friend, that converts automatically between metric and Imperial, and was very far ahead of it's time a few years back.

Looking very good indeed.

John


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## doubletop

Bill

This project looks interesting, I'm going to lurk along with it. With the pace of progress so far it won't be a long lurk.

Pete


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## b.lindsey

A little more progress yesterday evening and this morning. Yesterday I got the bolt hole pattern drilled into the mounting flange at the base of the cylinder (photo1) and the got it bolted on at home (photo 2). Using the base with the cylinder bolted to it in order to keep things square and to make it easier to hold in the vise, the top portion of the cylinder casting was machined down to the correct height (photo 3). The next step will be to bore the top opening out as called for and then machine the "pads" where the flywheel bracket and pump housing will bolt on.


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## b.lindsey

Just for some variety I went back to the firebox and cleaned things up enough to get the firebox door to fit nicely and drilled through for a hinge pin. The photos belog show the drill bit as the hinge pin but will replace that with a piece of 1/16" brass rod at home tonight. That's all for now...thanks for checking in.


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## mh121

Coming along nicely, I really enjoy firing mine up, if I am having a bad day in the shop the cover comes off and I fire it up. It is so relaxing to watch the various motions in action. Keep up the great work.

MartinH


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Martin, I look forward to being able to do the same. Mind if I ask what you use to "fire" yours?

Bill


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## mh121

I built the burner to the drawings that were supplied. I could not get it to burn correctly, so I bought a propane jet from a supplier and it ran fine with a good blue flame. I think the jet was a number 5. The engine requires very little heat to keep it going and I can run mine on about 1psi of gas.
Hope this helps.

MartinH


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## b.lindsey

Thanks for the info Martin...must be working from a diffrent set of plans as mine have no drawing for a burner.


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## b.lindsey

Andrew, the first two shots below are for you...this is larger than anything i am used to building but it hasn't been an issure with the larger machines at work. The last picture is of the brass piping and fittings I had ordered from PMR which will be used in the plumbing for the water jacket and pump.


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## lazylathe

Thanks Bill!!!! ;D
It is looking great so far!!!
You have done a lot of work on it since you started!

When you say you do some parts at work, what kind of equipment do you have the use of??
Nosey me!!!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Andrew,
In the machine shop lab here at school we have 6 full size Jet knee mills, 3 Jet 13x40" lathes, 1 precision surface grinder, MIG/TIG and stick welding, sheet metal shear and finger brake, horizontal and vertical bandsaws and other assorted pedestal grinders, belt sanders, etc. In May we will be adding both a CNC lathe and vertical machining center (both Haas machines). 

Here's a quick and dirty picture of the shop:


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## vcutajar

I have just turned green with envy.

Vince


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## b.lindsey

Didn't get much done over the weekend other than making the shaft which will locate the beam and allow it to rotate in the beam bracket (photo 1). This is shown temporarily assembled in photo 2 with the rouch beam casting in the background. Have been working on the beam some today at least getting the finished surfaces milled to width. Now ready to locate and drill the holes so more on that later today or tomorrow.


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## b.lindsey

I did get a little more done on the beam this afternoon and also located the permanent home for the beam bracket and shaft sub-assembly. As soon as I can get the 1/2" hole drilled for the shaft I'll mount the beam and hope to get the flywheel support bracket attached tomorrow whoch shoudl get the basic skeleton of the engine pretty well done.


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## lazylathe

Some more impressive progress Bill!!

Love the workshop you have use of!!!
Also green with envy!!!
Especially when the HAAS machines arrive!!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Andrew, the Haas machines will go against the far wall in that picture. I hope to have most of the summer to get used to them and to work on some simple projects the students can use to get some hands on CAM and CNC experience. Though we are not trying to produce CNC operators by any means, prospective employers have indicated that exposure to CNC would be a nice thing to see on graduates resumes. Non being that CNC literate myself, I will need the summer to get a bit of a head start before next fall !!!

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Today I got the two mounting surfaces on the cylinder machined to the specified distance from the centerline of the bore. One of these is where the pump will mount (photo 1) and the other on the opposite side is where the flywheel bracket mounts to the cylinder casting (photo 2). There was a little extra tab on the casting which the plans say to remove so that was done also (photo 3). Finally in this post the holes in the cylinder and the base were located and drilled/tapped for attaching the flywheel bracket (photo 4).


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## vcutajar

Bill

I have been meaning to ask you this question since you started this build.

Your aluminium castings, like my Kiwi castings a covered with a greyish patina or paint. I suspect this is normal for aluminium castings, but how do you intend to remove it?

Vince


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## b.lindsey

After that the flywheel bracked was attached with four 6-32 hex cap screws as shown in the first two photos below. Its pretty tich quarterseven for a slim hex driver but tight enough for the moment. I am sure it will have to come apart a few more times as things progress. Prior to doing this work I drilled the three cross holes in the beam though that set up isn't shown. The last two pictures for today are with everything done thus far assembled as they will be in the final model. Thanks for checking in!!


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## b.lindsey

Vince, for the most part these castings weren't too bad for rough places though there were a few like the beam and some of the corners of the firebox. Then there are the parting lines where there is some flash as well and this is true for most of the cast pieces. Mainly a file or belt sander was used to at least blend these in. One of the nice things to me about castings is that they look like castings as opposed to smoothly machined bar stock. This model will be painted in the end also which will help hide some of the surface variation, but even so much of it will remain. I still have the full size cast iron block casting here by my desk from the Briggs engine and if you look closely, aside from the machined surfaces its pretty rough too!! Casting can vary a lot of course and i suppose if a fellow was picky enough or wanted a smoother more finished appearance, you could apply a filler like "bondo" or similar and then sand it down smooth before painting. I don't anticipate doing that with this one.

Bill


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## vcutajar

Thanks Bill for the info.

Vince


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## lazylathe

Turning out beautifully Bill!!!

Very interested to see how you do the piston for this one!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Yeah....me too Andrew. I think most of that I will do on the Sherline equipment...same for the power piston center too, but want to get the cylinder sleeve finished first in order to fit the piston to it.

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Andrew...you had said you have the same casting kit earlier on page one. If you have a chance can I ask a favor? Could you measure the smallest diameter piece of pipe that was supplied (the one for the displacer piston). The prints call for 1.75" OD with .060" wall. What I got was 1.875" OD instead. It still fits well within the hot cap pipe just with less clearance. I am thinking this was a material change that just never made it to the prints but would appreciate any confirmation of that if possible. As i had said my prints are still dated 1977 and show no revisions at all.

Bill


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## modelman1838

Bill
If I were you I would be more than happy to go with the 1.875 o/d tube as the 1.750 o/d called up seems to be much too much clearance for a hot air engine in a 2.000 bore. When I built my 1.500 bore scratch built one from the book " S&S you can build", not having any tube supplied I bored out a piece of 1.50 o/d stainless steel tube to 1.450 bore and made up a copper displacer with .030 clearance only all round. and it works just fine.
Hugh.


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## lazylathe

Hi Bill,

I will check tonight and let you know.
Not home from work yet...

I will also see what year my plans are dated.
From what i remember they were pretty old as well.

Will let you know soon!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Hugh,
Thanks for that information too!! As is typical in all of the sterlings I have done, there is minimal clearance as you say so I am thinking this isn't an issue and may even be beneficial as you point out. Since this is still an active model from Mr. Myers who supplies the castings, it would seem that an update in the plans is in order and muchly needed. Mine still show a sheet metal firebox as well as I think i mentioned earlier. Again....thanks so much for the input!!

Bill


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## lazylathe

Hi Bill.

I have the plans dated 5-1-77.
The smallest diameter pipe i have with my kit is 1.74 O.D, it varies along it's length with 1.75 being
it's greatest in the middle somewhere.
The wall thickness is 0.066.

My plans call for 1.75 OD and 0.06 wall thickness.

I am pretty sure we have the same kits and the same plans! ;D

Hope this helps!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Nothing very exciting today but I did get the stainless steel cylinder sleeve machined to length and the 3 step diameters turnedwhere they will mate with the cylinder casting. Now i have to finish boring out the casting so it will slip in. The last picture shows the stock bore which measures round and already has a nice smooth bore. Just a little honing and it should be good to go.


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## b.lindsey

The hot cap tubing only had to have the ends faced and brought to length. This one picture shows it next to the cylinder sleeve. I also started on the displacer tube but didn't get it finished. Both the hopt cap and displacer piston will need thin plugs silver soldered into the bottom of them. The hot cap also need a mounting flange soldered near its top and the displacer will also need a thicker plug in the top where the actuator rod will attach.


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## b.lindsey

Andrew, sorry I missed your post last night...thanks so much for checking. The plan dates are the same for sure but your tubing size is as specified on the plans, mine is 1.875 OD with apprx .060 wall. As Hugh mentioned this may be just fine and I think I will proceed with the tubing supplied, keeping in mind that I did that in case it doesn't work out for some reason. I do think I will contact Mr. Myers though just to see if this was a mistake or if it really doesn't make any difference. Thanks again!!!

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Okay, here's the deal as per Mr. Myers himself who responded to my email in a matter of minutes I hasten to add !! There was a change in tubing size from 1.75 OD to 1.875 OD in order to reduce the clearance and therefore air volume. Aparently this has worked well as reported by other builders so we'll see how it works out on this one.

Nothing like a GOOD customer service experience to get your day off to a good start...so thanks to Mr. Myers for that!!!

Bill


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## arnoldb

You're really moving along at a good clip on this one Bill! Great job so far :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## lazylathe

I will wait for you to finish then i will decide if i need a bigger pipe!!! ;D

To me there is not so much of a difference in sizes although it may affect the running considerably!
A lot have been built to the old sizes and have worked well so far.

I will have to put a note in the plans so i do not forget about it...

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Today I pretty well got the displacer piston finished...machined the tube to length at work yesterday, cut a round sheet metal plug for the bottom of it and a slich of round aluminum for the top. This morning I silver soldered the plug into the bottom of the tube and machined the top end aluminum plug. Rather than attaching the acutator rod with two set screws at 90 degrees I am going to thread it into the top with a 10-32 thread. In picture 1 below I had cut a piece of scrap tubing just short of the tube length by the thickness of the plug and the .030" recess shown on the plans. This was just to siupport the plug evenly during soldering.Photo 2 shows it all fluxed up and photo 3 the results after soldering and cleaning it up. Not the best soldering I have done but its in there and no leaks which is what matters.


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## b.lindsey

These three photos show the straightforward machining of the top end to the displacer piston and how it looks fitted to the tube. In all liklihood, this will be loctited in at final assembly.


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## b.lindsey

Just a few more pictures from Friday afternoon through this morning. First is the initial machining of the displace yoke to get the mounting point widths to spec. The second one shows the hot cap tube, displacer tube, and cylinder liner in their relative positions on the cross sectional print. And finally this morning I made the displacer rod shown in the top of the displacer piston assembly. Hopefully more later today...

I did get a start on the power piston over the weekend as well but will hold pictures of that until more is done on it. That is being done at home on the Sherline equipment.


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## b.lindsey

One of the last more worrysome tasks on the cylinder casting was to bore the top and bottom to accept the cylinder sleeve thus forming the water jacket around the cylinder. This required two different diameters 2.20" at the top and 2.16" at a bottom distance of 4.62" from the top surface of the casting. As before, I left the cylinder casting mounted to the base although this time with the added support of the flywheel bracket being attached. The very bottom of the cylinder casting had been bored previously while doing the lathe work (earlier post) so this provided a reference to center on with the coax indicator (photo 1). Once this was done the top bore of 2.20" was easy enough, visible and measurable, but to reach far enough down to make the lower bore of 2.16" I had to use a longer boring bar which was below the top of the cylinder even with the knee in the full lowered position (photo 2). I used a steel rule to measure from the tip of the boring bar back up to the top of the casting and then subtracted that from the 4.62" depth needed. A little error here shouldn't be that much of an issue. A telescoping gage was used on both the top and bottom bores until the diameters were just an interference fit with the respective diameters on the cylinder sleeve (photos 3 & 4).


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## b.lindsey

Now for the moment of truth...would it fit properly? Fortunately it did as shown in the below photo. Its not fully pressed in at that point. I am electing to use JB Weld to secure and seal these two locations of the liner to the casting. Loctite would be a little neater but I'm not sure it would seal as well. If all else fails I stil have access to both the top and bottom of the liner sleeve if additional sealing is necessary. Glad that task is done now!!


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## lazylathe

Great progress Bill!!!

I seem to have missed the ones from the weekend, so i had a bit
of catching up to do!

Andrew


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## ProdEng

Boring a hole that deep must have been exciting, not being able to see the cut in progress.  Did you get any vibration from the boring bar? I can see for the first time how much easier it is to centralise the workpiece on the mill table rather than using a 4 jaw or faceplate on the lathe.


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## b.lindsey

No worries Andrew, progress has been steady but slow so not much catching up to do.

ProdEng, It wasn't bad actually, had the mill in low gear, and the aluminum casting machines well. Still took shallow cuts but there wasn't that much to remove from the bottom end. Having the whole thing mounted to the base and the extra support of the flywheel bracket helps also.

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Well since today seemed to be cylinder day, I finished up by drilling the outlet port for the water jacket on the back side of the cylinder casting and the inlet port and pump mounting holes on the end of the casting. The outlet will be tapped 1/4-40 for model pipe and as soon as I can get that done at home tonight and clean the water jacket area of chips and such I will mount the liner into the casting let it cure before testing for leaks.


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## b.lindsey

The power piston is small enough to work on at home on the Sherline lathe. Beginning with the raw casting (photo 1) the OD was turned to within .010" of the bore diameter (photo 2). Even taking small cuts of .010 to .020 built up some heat in the casting. Before working on the last .010" i let it cool back to normal temp. since even 40-50 degrees could result in a tenth or two difference due to expansion. The last few tenths were "dusted" off with a small piece of scotchbrite (photo 3) with repeated checks in the cylinder liner until the piston would just slip it on it own weight and be damped by closing off the open end of the liner.


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## b.lindsey

Once i was happy with the OD fit in the liner the end of the piston was drilled and bored to .500" (photo 1). The excess casting material was faced off the bottom end (photo 2). This did reveal a few small voids in the casting which shouldn't affect performance but I will fill them in with some JB weld all the same. Finally the bore was enlarged for the retaining nut which will hold the piston rod in place (photo 3). Tomorrow evening I will add the oil grooves, part the piston off and begin work on some of the inside contours. Thanks for checking in on today's progress.


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## lazylathe

Hi Bill,

I see you are using a tangential tool in the second pic.
How do you find it works for you?
From the pics it looks like it is doing a fantastic job!

I am quite interested in making one for the Myford and if i can pull that off, one for the South bend too.

Great work again!!!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Andrew, I have had the "diamond" toolholder for several years now and like it very much. It isn't a cure all by any means but like any tool it has its place. It is convenient to buy a square HSS blank toolbit (1/8" square in this case), chop it in half and sharpen both ends of each half...4 cutting edges for a small price. As with any cutting tool, sharpening is critical, but with the supplied fixture for sharpening (which I'm sure you can make just as well), that is pretty straightforward in this case as the angles are all built into the sharpening fixture. For me it isn't necessarily my #1 go to tool for facing or turning, but it does get used often. The reason I used it in the above case is that the piston is too large to clear the cross-slide and the diamond toolholder offered greater extension to the left of the cross-slide so I could machine firther back towards the chuck.

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Ii got a start on the flywheel today. I first chucked on the largest hun of the casting and got the flywheel running as true as possible. Then drilled an undersized through hole (photo 1). Boring it for a light press fit on a .500 dowel pin came next (photo 2), followed by support from the live center in order to face one side of the outer rim to width. Once the outer rim was faced the hub was also faced to a slightly wider width (photo 3). Although not shown, the outer diameter of the rim was machined next. The dowel pin was pressed into the machined side so that it can be chucjed on to machine the opposite side of the flywheel tomorrow.


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## b.lindsey

Couldn't help but see how the flywheel looked in the whole scheme of things Photo 1) even though the spokes will be reversed in the end. The last picture is of the outlet connection into the water jacket with an elbow attachedjust to make sure it wil clear the flywheell and stack.


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## lazylathe

Starting to come together now Bill!!! ;D

Looks like the water jacker connector just clears the flywheel.

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Not quite as close as it looks Andrew. There is probably a 1/4" clearance there. I'll get a better picture tomorrow.

Bill


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## ProdEng

That is a very nice looking engine. 

Jan


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## b.lindsey

AS to the clearance...its more like 1/8" but in this case a miss is as good as a mile (photo 1). This morning I finished up the flywheel with the exception of polishing the machined surfaces. Oddly enough the plans specify a 3" dowel pin for the crankshaft, but after going through the bracket and leaving enough for the crankdisk, there is only enough to press into the flywheel about 1.150" of the 1.4" hub thickness. Its enough to hold the flywheel solid but as you can see in the second picture, it leaves about a 1/4" recessed hole on the exposed end. I am thinking I will make a brass cap for this which will look better than that recess and might even be a nice detail to go with the brass connecting yokes and brass pump, etc.


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## lazylathe

In the famous words of Ace Ventura:
"Like a glove!"

Andrew


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## Stilldrillin

Hi Bill.
Just watching, quietly. 

I held my breath for you, over the last few postings. Here's my part built, as received........







Wishing you continued good luck, with the rest of the build! Thm:

David D


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## b.lindsey

Looks like some interference there David. The hole location isn't super critical so maybe it can be plugged and redrilled just forward of the present location. Reducing the flywheel diameter is another option. From what I see on mine...the distance from the cylinder casting to the inner edge of the flywheel might also allow for a close nipple into the cylinder with an immediate "ell" avoiding the flywheel altogether.

Bill


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## Stilldrillin

Bill.
My thoughts are to plug, and re drill. No problem!
The flywheel o/d is also roughed oversize, only.

Story here...... http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3881.0

When I finally clear the tuit backlog, it is one of the first in line. But, I doubt that will be _this_ year....... :

David D


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## b.lindsey

I worked some on finishing up the displacer yoke castng Friday and yesterday got the shoulder bolt made to attach it to the flywheel support bracket. Today I hope to work more in the ID of the power piston though there is slight list of household duties of the non-machining variety to be accomplished as well. Hopefully there will still be so time in the shop too!!!


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## b.lindsey

With all the senior design capstone projects to be completed by this Thursday, the machine shop has been busy so not a lot of machine time for me. I did however finish the install of the cylinder liner into the cylinder casting today Photo 1 actually shows the lower end of the liner inverted so as to apply a generous amount of JB Weld. This area will mate with the lower machined ID of the casting. Once this was inserted and lined up, the upper ring was similarly coated with epoxy and then the whole liner was tapped into place with a soft face hammer and a block of plastic to insure even force all around. Photo 3 shows the liner in place after cleaning off the excess epoxy from the upper joint. I'll let it cure overnight and check for water tightness tomorrow though I don't expect any leaks. Neither is the liner coming out anytime soon


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## lazylathe

Looks like it is starting to come together now Bill!!!
The liner fits perfectly and you should have no leaks there! ;D

Have you decided on a paint scheme for it yet?

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Andrew,
Not fully decided yet but leaning towards a dark maroon color though the firebox will likely be a high temp black. Hoping to add some pinstriping too...maybe gold or silver. All black seems a bit boring but will have to search and see what I can find in a maroon color...definitely want it to be more red end of the scale rather than blue or purple. Thanks for following along!!

Bill


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## b.lindsey

It has been a slower week as far as progress as other things took precedence, but looking forward to a productive weekend. Most of the work on all the castings is done now, so its down to the bar stock items, links, etc. I did get a little done on the power piston last evening...facing to length, grooves in the face as per the print, and the notch at the top for packing (photo 1). Concurrently, I have been working on a version of SandyC's burner for his 3" vertical boiler, though I made the main body out of a chunk of brass as one piece rather than copper pipe with a bottom plate (photo 2). The deflectors, gas jet carrier, and mixer tube will be made this weekend and silver soldered together. Ordered the orifice yesterday from McMaster and it should be in by Monday. Still looking for a suitable ceramic material on this side of the pond, so if anyone has any ideas on that it would be appreciated. Finally the various pieces of brass stock have been cut for the linkakges needed and will be working on getting them machined today and over the weekend as well (photo 3). Hope to pick up the pace some and get this one finished by the end of May or early June at the latest.


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## b.lindsey

Before leaving work yesterday I milled all the link pieces to length and located and drilled the holes (photo 1). More on these tomorrow though. Today I finished the parts for the burner body and goet them silver soldered and cleaned up on the outside. This is shown in the next three photos.


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## b.lindsey

Before setting up to work on the linkage parts, there was some rotary table work required to finish up the power piston casting so I worked on this most of the afternoon. This is actually one of the more intricate parts of all of the castings, Today's efforts are shown in the photos below


----------



## b.lindsey

Finally for today, I made the nut that will attach the piston rod to the piston and whoch acts as a guide for the displacer piston' Its not thresded yet to the 1/2-20 required...I'll do that monday at work. Tomorrow I will begin machining the linkage parts.


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## b.lindsey

Yesterday did see some progress on 3 of the 5 linkage parts. The other two I will work on today at work as time permits. The two power piston links had to be flycut down to a thickness of .18" from the .250" thick brass stock but once that was done, the side reliefs could be gang cut as shown in photo 1. Photo 2 shows both of these after that operation. Though not the most efficient method, the face reliefs were cut with a ball end mill on each side of these two links. As noted, not the quickest way to do this but more secure on the little Sherline where this was done (photo 3). Finally the slightly longer and full .250" thick displacer yoke link was done similarly. All three of the links are shown in photo 4 after these two operations. Radiusing the ends of all of the links will be done together once the other two 3/4" thick links are completed to this same stage. Hopefully the orifice for the burner will arrivei today so it can be installed.


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## lazylathe

Great update Bill!

A question:
I see you used a ball mill to cut the face reliefs.
In the next picture it looks like you swapped cutters and now have 90 degree corners.
Any reason why you did not just use one cutter for the whole operation?

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Andrew, the 90 degree square sides were cut as shown in picture one. The radii on these side edges will be formed when the ends of each link are machined "round". In photo 4 the upward faces (and opposite sides as well) were done using the ball end mill, so that there will be a radius curving up to the flat face(s) of the still to be rounded ends of the links. Hope that helps...if not will post a picture once they are completed.

Bill


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## b.lindsey

These pictures show the roughing out of the wider links...milling the center slot, the rounded side reliefs and the squared off end reliefs. I will put the radii on each end of them tomorrow.


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## b.lindsey

I did get the radii cut on the three thinner links today, then buffed them tonight at home. Those are shown below.


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## ProdEng

Nice to see how the links where made, thanks.

Jan


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## lazylathe

Thanks for the last close up Bill!
Now it makes sense!!!

Gorgeous work as usual!!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Glad that helped Andrew. They actually look better than they do in the pics, but before assembling, I may try polishing them a little more. I need to get some more use out of that little Foredom buffer anyway, but since I have never been big on polishing things, I'm learning as I go. Hopefully will have more to show later today or this evening.

Bill


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## kustomkb

That's some nice work you're doing on your latest project Bill.

I am enjoying following your speedy progress.


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## b.lindsey

I had a little time this morning to get the wider 3/4" links radiused on the ends. Photos 1 & 2 show the set-up used which was basically the same for the flat links...two close fitting pins spaced at the center distance for each of the various links with the end to be radiused centered with the rotary table and spindle then bakcing off the desired radius (which in all but one case was .250"). Actually I backed off more and gradually worked closer to the desired radius taking relatively fine cuts each time. With the wider links I had to shim under the elevated end opposite the fork as shown in the second photo. All in all it worked well and seemed a safe and steady way to go about it. The sacrificial aluminum piece looked more like swiss cheese once done but it served its puspose. The last two photos show the two machine finished fork links. Buffing will be done tonight. The small side radius on the faces of the forked ends is a result of the brass bar stock which came with slightly radiused edges but this is cosmetic and won't have any effect on their function.


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Kevin, we must have been posting at the same time. Um....compared to the Briggs build most anything is fast but this has been a most enjoyable project so far. As i noted at the outset, this one has been on my "most wanted" list for like 13 years or so, and I've had the castings for over a year. Thankfully the build is going a bit more rapidly. 

Am expecting another shipment of goodies today from McMaster which should finish out the materials needed. Some stainless rod for the pump, some 3/8" hex 12L14 for the various shoulder bolts that have to be made, teflon packing for the power piston, and the 3/16" square steel for the displacer yoke.

BTW if any of you that are planning on building this one need a 1/2" x 3" dowel pin for the crankshaft or a 1/4" SS ball for the pump, let me know as I have 4 and 24 extras respectively what with minimum package quantities and all.

Bill


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## b.lindsey

The power piston has a cap that fits on the top of it to form a groove for the packing material. Not having any '060 brass handy i made it instead frome a larger piece of brass...turned and bored to size on the lathe, then drilled for the attachment screws and routed out for the clearance of the link attachment bolts usint the rotary table on the mill. Rather than returning to the lathe to part off the .060" washer like part, i cut it off instead on the RT with a slotting saw which worked very well. It all fit well together and still has a nice fit in the cylinder.

Will be working on a few more smaller parts this weekend including the shoulder bolts now that the 3/8" hex stock is here.


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## idahoan

Bill

Great job on your Rider-Ericcson; I'll bet it is going to run real nice. My good friend built one last winter and it runs like a Swiss watch and takes very little heat to operate.

One interesting thing he has had happen on the Teflon power piston packing was after running a while it would shrink and leave a considerable gap. I think eventually he just cut a small piece to fill the gap; because if he replaced the whole thing it would just do it again.

I told him that it was the cheap Chinese packing that he had purchased from the Ace Hardware store.

Thanks for the update,

Dave


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## ProdEng

Love the idea of "parting off" using a slitting saw; stored away for future use 

Jan


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## b.lindsey

Today I finished up the crank disc before jumping into some of the shoulder bolts. Now I can spin the flywheel all I want without the crankshaft wanting to slip axially in the bearings. I started with a piece of rectangular aluminum and flycut it to the required thickness, then drilling and boring the .500" hole for the crankshaft and the tapped hole for the crankpin. The RT was used again with a ball end mill to form the relief on the back side (opposite the crankpin) as shown in photo 1. This was followed with a straight end mill to finish the outer radii of both the large and small ends (photos 2 & 3). Though it doesn't show well, I had made a .500" round stud with 10-32 threads to screw into the crankpin location to hold the small end on the RT with the lathe chuck, securing the back side with a 10-32 nut. I was still cautious of it letting go and spinning during the milling of the small radius, so took small cuts and held the big end with my fingers. Fortunately it held well. Once the round work was done it was a matter of straight cutting the edges tangent to both the large and small radii. Photo 4 shows this set-up in the vise and as it turned out a 1/4" square toolbit and a #60 drill under the brass stud gave a close enough angle so that a little filing and sanding could blend everything together seamlessly.


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## b.lindsey

After drilling for the 8-32 set screw i mounted the crankdisk on the lathe on a 1/2" dowel pin and cleaned up the recessed side a bit more, then some final sanding on the surface plate and it was ready to go.


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## gbritnell

Hi Bill,
Great work as usual. I have always like the looks of this engine. Just not enough time. :big:
gbritnell


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## b.lindsey

George, thanks for checking in.

Dave, the packing I got from McMaster was 1/8" square. I was hoping it would compact enough to fit in the gap but no such luck. Yesterday I got some 3/32 round from the local hardware and sure enough, it comes from China. It fits the gap perfectly and seals against the cylinder without too much drag, but i can see the issue you noted. For now i am going to see if the 1/16" gap will be ok, if not I'll probably do the same thing and just fill the crack as needed. I'll see how it wears first. Thank for the heads up though.

Jan, I have used the same technique for making fins in cylinders too. On the smaller Sherline machines I feel like it gives me more control and a more rigid set-up compared to using a parting tool on the lathe.

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Starting to come together in places now...here is a short video of the linkages working off of the crankdisk...


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## lazylathe

Awesome stuff Bill!!!
Looks like it is going to be a very smooth runner very soon!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

A little progress since the last post...had to stop my the local metals supermarket and procure 2 sizes of brass, one for the power piston center and one for the pump body. The three pictures below show the roughing out of the piston centerpiece. A bolster for the links to attach to will be soldered into the cross hole shown. Also a bronze bushing fits into the threaded end to guide the displacer rod which workd up and down through the center of this piece.


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## b.lindsey

Meanwhile as time allowed ofer the last day or so a couple of other smaller pieces were made. First the connecting pin that joins the two 3/16 square actuators that (make a "U" shape above the beam). This will ultimately mate with another brass rod end that extends from the top of the displacer rod. Theother piece (actually two pieces not yet parted) are the steel pieced that will solder onto the 3/16" square arms and attach them to the connecting pin as shown in the last photo. Once I split this into two parts they will be milled to length and a 3/16" notch put in the free end of each to fit to the square actuator rod.


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## b.lindsey

Despits havig to cut that pesky grass this weekend, I got some good shop time in as well.First up I wanted to make the two parts that form the displacer actuator "bow." Once each piece of 3/16" square stock was bent to 90 degrees (photo 1). The plans call for 1.32" from the inside of the vertical portion to the cut off end of the bend. To get this I cut a scrap piece of brass to that dimension and the used it to set the slitting saw height to make this cut in each of the two bow halves (photos 2 & 3). The end pieces were finished and notched for silver soldering to these ends as shown in photo 4'


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## b.lindsey

After soldering and cleaning up the end pieces, the sharp corners were radiused with a abll end mill and attached to the center connecting part to form the whole bow. I wanted to check the fit before making and soldering the lowed rod ends and the bow is wider than the actuator arm casting by about .160" ...hmmmm. ???. I rechecked every dimension and everything was spot on to the plans. At that point I added up everything on the plans and came up with 3.960" between the bow legs while the finished width of the actuator casting is 3.800". I think rather than modifying the bos legs I will just add a spacer to each side of the actuator armto fill the gap of .080" per side. Anyone planning to build this model should make a note to change the 1.32" dimension noted in the previous post to 1.24" +/-'


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## b.lindsey

Leaving the displacer bow for a while, I also wanted to get the power piston finished and installed to check out all the linkages. The cross piece was made and loctited in and the link arms attached (photo 1). then the center piece was installed into the piston casting as shown in photo 2. Finally, the last two photos show the power piston assembly installed into the cylinder and the other end of the links attached to the beam.


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## vcutajar

Bill

As usual beautiful workmanship. I guess not much left to get it finished.

Vince


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Vince, mainly whats left is the hot cap, pump, and plumbing. Its getting close now and this weekends progress helped a lot. Once everyting is made and a test run is made it will be disassembled, and painted.

Bill


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## ProdEng

That's a very interesting looking engine, watching the links when it is running will be a treat.

Jan


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Jan, I do think that is what attracts many to this engine or similar ones...as well as the fact that it performs work too, in this case pumping water. I look forward to getting to the point where I can post a video of it running...hopefully not too much longer.

Bill


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## lazylathe

Wow!!!! :bow:
More excellent craftsmanship Bill!

All the linkages, the bow and the fit looks amazing.
Eagerly awaiting it's first test run!!

Andrew


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## gbritnell

It sure is coming along nicely Bill. As stated your craftsmanship is first rate. This will certainly be another fine addition to your collection.
gbritnell


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## b.lindsey

Andrew and George....thanks so much for the comments and support. As luck would have it I have to be gone from Wed. until Sun this week so progress may be slowed a bit until my return. Ah...to be retired and only have to commute to a back yard shop each day!! :big:

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Got a start on the pump body today. Took a piece of 1.25" brass, cit it and milled to finished length and drilled and reamed the .376 bore, counterbored and threaded the top end and then had to make a quick and dirty drill extension to drill the .218" opening below the area where the ball valve will seat. This is shown in the three photos below.


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## b.lindsey

Omce the lathe work was done, the mill was used to reduce the 1.25" round to the .75" square called for in the plans. I'll get more done tomorrow hopefully.


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## b.lindsey

Last night I got a little done on the pump body which was roughed out in the previous post. The various holes were drilled for intake, exit into the water jacket, and priming cup and then it was centered in the 4 jaw to turn the round section between the two square ends.There is still some work to do on it but I expect it to be finished up over the weekend along with some of the other smaller parts that complete the pump assembly.


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## rhitee93

I'm just checking in to let you know that I am still enjoying this build. It is looking nice Bill


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## b.lindsey

Yhanks for checking in Brian. Today I worked on attaching the firebox to the underside of the base with four 1/8" pieces of brass threaded 5=40 on both ends. Nothing unusual here except I had to disassemble everything to get the underside of the base located in the mil vise and it took an extension drill to get the length needed to reach the tabs on the firebox. This is shown in the first 3 pictures. The last picture shows a little adornment for the top of the stack I made from a scral piece of brass. Will return to the pump parts in the morning.


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## lazylathe

It's all coming together now Bill!!! ;D

Not much longer and it will be merrily chugging away!!

Andrew


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## idahoan

Its coming along nicely Bill; beautiful work.


Dave


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## fcheslop

Hi Bill, nice work its an engine I have wanted to build for many years . :bow: :bow:.Thought i had better check in insted of just lurking and drooling :big:
best wishes Frazer


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Andrew, Dave, and Frazer. I did make some progress over the weekend. I had meant to work mainly on the pump and did get the mounting plate made and attached to the pump body along with making a gasket for it as well (photo 1). Then I got sidetracked in working on the brass part that connects the displacer yoke to the displacer rod. Its not quite finished but close. Photos 2 & 2 show the 1" dia. blank piece of brass beinf drilled and bored out to fit the yoke centerpiece. This hole is off center by .060". While i still had it lined up I scribed a line (photo 4) to drill and tap the hole for the displacer rod and the oil hole on what will be the top side of the bored hole' The scribed line ensured that all of these would be as much in line as possible, given the offset of the bored hole.


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## b.lindsey

After the holes were drilled (not shown), the piece was put in the 4 jaw chuck to turn the bottom "stem" as shown in the first two photos below. Yet to be done is a little rotary table work to equalize the wall thickness all around the bored hole and then some edge rounding so the whole part becomes more spheroidal as per the plans. The final picture ...somewhat out of place...shows the pump body attached to the engine. The pump still needs the side pieces of flat brass and the protruding studs for the inlet port and the priming cup atachments as well as the hex top nut and gland screw. Getting closer now but still some work to do.


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## b.lindsey

This weekend I was able to get the bottom eyelets attached to the displacer yoke, made the two fastener needed for attaching it to the actuator and to install the yoke assembly and displacer. Though no major problems were encountered it did take a while to get everything adjusted to where i was happy with the smoothness of the motion. These are shown in the two photos below.


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## b.lindsey

With that done, I can get back to the pump again, and the first part up was the threaded cap. The turning work was done on the top side in the lathe (photo 1). As I often do for making a hex, the lathe chuck is screwed onto a hex fixture so it can be indexed in the mill vise to cut the six sides in several steps. This fixture along with its 8 sided counterpart were bought from Sherline years back and I use both often to eliminate the need to take a part out of the chuck. Very handy for preserving concentricity.I did have to reverse it for cutting the 1/2"-13 threads on the bottom side and the finished part is shown in the second photo. Finally it is shown atop the pump body in the last photo'


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## steamer

It's looking great Bill!

Dave


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## lazylathe

Almost time to fire her up Bill!!!!

Great updates and pics as usual!!

The nut with the hex is a piece of work! :bow:
Thanks for explaining how you do it! Makes sense now!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Dave. Andrew, it shouldn't be too much longer just to try it out. Still have the hot cap to finish too though. Once I get it running, it will all have to be disassembled for cleaning and painting, which i don't normally do but in this case i think it will make the model look more finished. I just didn't have the heart to paint the little Briggs.

Bill


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## Ken I

Just a belated sign in from another lookenpeeper who's been following the build with his mouth firmly shut.

Nothing I could add to such a great build - can't wait to see it finished.

Ken


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## b.lindsey

Ken, thanks for checking in...have to admit I am getting antsy to see it run now too. Hopefully not too much longer.
Bill


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## b.lindsey

A tad more progress on the pump parts. First the packing screw which I wasn't happy with until the 3rd try. I had to keep loosening the adjustable die screw because the thread were too tight and being made of brass (bronze on the 3rd try) the slot would get all buggered up just trying to screw it into the top pump nut. Finally with the adjusting screw totally loose the threads cut small enough to screw in more easily. This is shown in photo 1. Second the pump shaft, 5/32" stainless threaded on one end and turned to .090" on the other (photo 2). Not much to show but its been like a sauna out in the garage this week so hard to stay out there for long. More to follow soon though.


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## fcheslop

Hi Bill, wont belong before the paint gets burnt :big: .Stunning build
kind regards frazer


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Frazer, I'm hoping as others have said that it won't take that much heat to get her running, though it is a heavy engine and lots of mass and inertia to overcome even without any binds in the works.


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## idahoan

She's looking good Bill;

With regards to heat requirement; are you planning on making a steel hot end with a copper cap? I'm not sure what your prints call out but when my buddy built his Denney Improved engine the plans called out an all copper hot end (bad idea). It transferred so much heat into the cold end that it wouldn't run well. It was hard to keep the water cool and a huge flame was required just to keep it running. 

When he built his Rider Ericsson last winter he made a steel hot end with a thin copper hot cap; man what a difference that made. He also turned a waist near the top (ala Jerry Howell) to help stop the heat migration from the hot end to the cold end.

After the Rider was finished he went back and made a new hot end for the Denney and now it runs just as well or maybe better than the Rider. 

Some food for thought; one other item is that he has trouble with, is the pump check ball sticking when it dries out. Last weekend at the show we had to remove the nut and plunger to get it freed up with a long skinny screwdriver. Maybe it is our fine Boise Idaho water; not sure but I would bet a Teflon ball wouldn't stick.

Looking forward to the video of it running.

Dave


----------



## b.lindsey

Hi Dave and thanks for the info. The plans call for a steel hot end (pipe supploed in the casting kit) with a stainless end plug (not supplied). It also calls for a S.S. check ball which I have, but if any troubles are encountered then your idea of a teflon ball is a good one. I got aome more work done on the pump this weekend and will try to post some pictures later today.

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Work, seminars, etc. have thwarted much progress so far this week but have gotten a bit done on the business end of the pump rod assembly followed by assembly and a considerable amount of fiddling to get it as free acting as I want. Everything was fine until i screwed the small packing nut into the top cap which caused some binding. In the end I opened up the hold in the packing nut from .156" to .159" to give it some more wiggle room. Since the water inside the pump doesn't come up to that level normally, leakage shouldn't be a problem, and even so the packing should seal around the shaft to prevent it. It works easily by hand now and immersion in a small pail of water while actuating it by hand shows that it is pumping water quite nicely. Now on to the bolsters for the plumbing attachments, the side pieces which encase the round portion of the pump body, and the priming cup assembly. If only I could turn down the heat in the shop...supposed to be 101-102 degrees F over the weekend!!


----------



## b.lindsey

Despite the heat, i did get a good morning in the shop yesterday and got the mounting ring for the hot cap made (photos 1 & 2), then got it silver soldered onto the hot cap tubing and made the gasket for it. Its a bit smaller than called for in the print but done purposely so that it will fit within the upper perimeter of the firebox without having to modify it. Also made and installed the clevis for the pump (photo 3). Once I get the hot cap lower end made and solderd in, i may give it a try and see what problem areas there are. Just the sheer weight of this engine and the various up and down components create a lot of inertia, even though things seem to turn freely. Time will tell.


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## idahoan

Bill, it just keeps getting better with each update. Thm:

Dave


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Dave, its getting close now I think...half expectred to look out in the shop this afternoon and see it running on the ambient heat 

Bill


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## lazylathe

Hi Bill,

Great set of updates that i seem to have missed!!!
Any news??? ;D

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Andrew, I have been at the beach all this week getting in some great time with, oarents, kids, and grandkids and just relaxing. After getting the hot cap done before leaving I did some temporary plumbing and gave it a try with results best described as "close but no cigar...yet!" I brought the thing to the beach with me just to fiddle with some and yesterday my dad and I got it to run at first with the pump detached, and then later with the pump as well. Mainly I think it just needs some running in to loosen things up a bit. After I get back home tomorrow, I will work on finalizing the plumbing over the weekend and some final adjustments. I do still have to make the two water hammer thingys but it will run for now without those. Stay tuned as there will be more updates over the weekend.

Bill


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## lazylathe

woohoo1 th_wav woohoo1

Awesome stuff Bill!!
Hope you had agreat time with the family and kids!
I am also off this week but have been busy taking my car back and forth to the dealer and am not too happy...

Looking forward to the next update!

Andrew


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## b.lindsey

Earlier this week I ordered the remaining parts i needed for the propane burner...the flow valve and ceramic for the top of the burner. The few pictures below show the whole assembly, the top of the burner with the ceramic and the burner while being lit. All in all i am peased with it and found the ceramic material far easier to cut and finish than I had expected.


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## idahoan

Hi Bill,

Nice looking burner! I would be interested in more details on its construction; what did use for a jet, and how did you calculate the air hole size, is there a venturi in there somewhere?
Also where did you purchase the parts? That is a nice looking valve; is it also a regulator, if so what pressure does it run at.

Sorry for all the questions but you got my curiosity up.

Dave


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## b.lindsey

Hi Dave,
The burner itself was made from SandyC's plans which are/were in the downloads section, modified only to use US instead of BA threads. The orifice I ordered from McMaster http://www.mcmaster.com/#orifices/=iiore8. Part # 2943T888. Mine has a 10-32 outer thread and a .010" orifice which is what most seem to use with propane for this size burner...again as per Sandy's plans. The regulator I ordered from these people who I have used before...http://www.contenti.com/products/soldering/114-473-01.html and the same for the ceramic board...http://www.contenti.com/products/soldering/424-351.html. No idea what pressure it runs at but it is of the type used for disposable fuel cylinders as the link shows.


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## vcutajar

Bill

Just out of curiosity,  how did you cut the ceramic?

Vince


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## b.lindsey

Vince, I drew a circle on it slightly larger than the opening in the burner and it cut quite easily with a vertical band saw. Once it was roughed out I finish sanded the perimeter on a vertical belt sander until it just slipped in. The material is hard but not like you would think of ceramic tile being hard.

Bill


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## vcutajar

Thanks Bill

Vince


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## idahoan

Thanks Bill

Looks like I may need to place an order.

Dave


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## Don1966

Bill, sorry I just finished reading up on your thread. Wish I would have caught it when you started, but I really enjoyed the built. You have done some Fascinating work on the Ericsson engine. I will be following till it is complete even thought I am late.  :bow:

Don


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## b.lindsey

Thanks Don, Mechanically the engine itself runs well...still sorting out a few minor issues with the pump however as it is dragging downt he engine too much even though it pumps quite well. Nothing major, just some tweaking should do it and am working on that this week as time and this nasty heat permit. I hoep to have a preliminary video of it shortly, the the tear down, painting, and finish up work can commence 

Bill


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## b.lindsey

Here is an initial video of the engine under power. It not finished yet but the final plumbing and valve work can be done while I am painting the rest of it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5UOCyC1HRo&feature=youtu.be


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## idahoan

Great job Bill, she runs real nice!

Dave


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## rhitee93

Wow, nice work Bill! That is a neat engine, and it is a good runner.
You have made good progress on it as well.


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## ProdEng

Great looking engine, love watching it run

Jan


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## b.lindsey

Thanks guys, I will post more once the painting and remainder of the fittings are done.

Bill


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## Don1966

Bill That is awesome and a quiet runner. The only thing I can't figure out is why it barks...... LOL

Don


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## vcutajar

Nice one Bill.  Congrats.

Vince


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## b.lindsey

Don, either the dogs were barking approval at seeing it finally run or terrified of the fire breathing dragon looming over their heads...I think the later is probably more likely


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## b.lindsey

A short update to the work on the pump over the last day or so, some bling, which is uncharacteristic for me, and I received yesterday the globe valves from PMR, one of which will be for the priming cup which I still have to make. A few pictures follow


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## rhitee93

I like the bling.  What did you used for the pad and compound for the engine turning?


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## Don1966

Bill i love bling if you look at some of my engines you will see. That looks great.

Don


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## b.lindsey

Brian....sorry for the delay...have been out of town for last 5 days.  I used just a piece of 1/4" dia craytex (rubberized abrasive) extended from a collet in the mill and dressed it several times during the process. 

Bill


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## IronHorse

Nice job on the engine, and my dogs seamed to like it too


IronHorse


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## myrickman

Fine looking build Bill. She sure runs smooth. I just finished putting all new bushings in one of these models for a friend over the weekend.


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## open

b.lindsey said:


> A short update to the work on the pump over the last day or so, some bling, which is uncharacteristic for me, and I received yesterday the globe valves from PMR, one of which will be for the priming cup which I still have to make. A few pictures follow




Good !That looks great.


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## jwcnc1911

This is a fantastic build!

It only leaves one question, where can one find such a set of castings?


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## idahoan

Castings available here;

http://myersengines.com/engines/pumping_engine_1-b.htm

Dave


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