# Another Chuck Fellows engine as built by Brian rupnow



## Brian Rupnow (Jun 25, 2009)

So---We have a runner. I can not get any 0-80 socket head capscrews in Barrie, and my "Nut and Bolt store" doesn't seem to be able to order them except in quantities of 50 (at an outrageous price). If anybody out there would like to take pity on me and send me one #0-80 socket head cup point set screw x 1/8" long, and one #0-80 socket head capscrew x 1/8" or 1/4" long, you would have my everlasting gratitude. See the link to my website for my mailing address. This morning I got up and decided to make a solid cam and see if I could get the engine to run as a conventional engine, and it runs very well as the video shows.---Brian


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## putputman (Jun 25, 2009)

Great job on the engine, Brian. Fast too!!!

I can't help you with the sets screw or socket head cap screw, but I do have some slotted binding head #0-80 X 3/8" screws that I would be happy to send you if you could use them.

I can't imagine a 0-80 socket head set screw. Do you even have an allen wrench that would fit it?


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## Maryak (Jun 25, 2009)

Brian,

Congratulations on yet another speed record breaking model. Great sound. Looking forward to the hit and miss version. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## ChooChooMike (Jun 25, 2009)

Geez, I barely get enough energy to look at my lathe/mill and you already have another engine running  :big:

:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Great job (again) !!

Mike


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## vlmarshall (Jun 25, 2009)

I've got some 0-80s here, you can have 'em if they'll help ya. Thread length is .180", .237" OAL.


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## vlmarshall (Jun 25, 2009)

Ok, that short one isn't 0-80. Ignore it. ;D


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 25, 2009)

vlmarshall--one of those would be just great, thanks.---Now if I can just get somebody to volunteer me one #0-80 set screw, I'm in business.---Brian


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## vlmarshall (Jun 25, 2009)

Ok, sent them. Wife's on her way out anyway, so she's mailing them now. 

-Vernon


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 25, 2009)

Vernon--Big thank you and a karma point for your kindness.---Brian


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## vlmarshall (Jun 25, 2009)

Ha, no problem, man. I sent all 5 on a strip of tape, and would have sent the 0-80 tap too, if I could have prevented it from breaking without trying to fit an endmill tube in an envelope.

Don't Karma me, I was gonna wrap the screws in Duct tape, but my wife stopped me. Rof} :big:


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 25, 2009)

Brian...I don't mean to hijack...but you could've gotten some Guinness out of Vernon.
That's right Vernon...I'm watching. :big:


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## vlmarshall (Jun 25, 2009)

Aw, maaaannnnnnnn! 
Quit following me! Go make some chips! ;D


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## vlmarshall (Jun 25, 2009)

Besides, I'm still outta Guinness.


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## rake60 (Jun 25, 2009)

Nice build Brian!

 :bow:

Rick


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 25, 2009)

Thanks Rick---I have a question for you. I have updated the drawings as I built the engine, and now I would like to go in and delete the download I have posted in the "downloads" section and replace it with a more "current" download with the corrected drawings. How do I do that?? Brian


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## rake60 (Jun 25, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Thanks Rick---I have a question for you. I have updated the drawings as I built the engine, and now I would like to go in and delete the download I have posted in the "downloads" section and replace it with a more "current" download with the corrected drawings. How do I do that?? Brian



You can't do that but I can.
I have deleted the original upload.
Before deleting it I did make a back up of the file so it can
reinstated if you wish.

Rick


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 30, 2009)

Well boys---Here ya go!!! Its running in hit and miss mode. After 2 hours of messing about with tiny, tiny, tiny #0-80 socket head capscrews and adjusting the timing, it runs. This video was made in the first 5 minutes of operation, so its a bit choppy. Its been setting on the corner of my desk running now for half an hour, and its getting much smoother. I am happy as a pig in mud!!!


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## kvom (Jul 1, 2009)

Nicely done. Great sound!


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 1, 2009)

I may have shot myself in the foot a little by making the flywheels from steel. My theory was that if the flywheels were uber heavy, they would let the engine "coast" longer between firing cycles. What I overlooked was the fact that since they are so heavy, it takes considerably more kinetic energy to overcome their "resting inertia", so the engine has to fire 5 or 6 times to get the engine spinning fast enough to actuate the governors. If the flywheels had been made of aluminum, which is 1/3 the weight of steel, the firing profile would probably have been quite different. When I get back from the Canadian Rod Tour, I am going to build a small scale varying load machine to demonstrate how applied load affects the hit and miss cycle as the engine runs.


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## cfellows (Jul 2, 2009)

Brian,

This is probably a dumb question, but do you have the air pressure to the engine cranked up as high as it will go? 

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 14, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Brian,
> 
> This is probably a dumb question, but do you have the air pressure to the engine cranked up as high as it will go?
> 
> Chuck


Chuck--I'm running it at about 55 PSI in the video.


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## vlmarshall (Jul 14, 2009)

That sounds great! I'd like to hear it with aluminum flywheels... could you run it with only the governor flywheel?


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 14, 2009)

Vernon  said:
			
		

> That sounds great! I'd like to hear it with aluminum flywheels... could you run it with only the governor flywheel?


PROBABLY---


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## hammers-n-nails (Jul 14, 2009)

what kind of loading device do you have in mind? i would like to build one also but about the only thing i could think of was to find a small generator or make one from electric motor and light up blubs or something else that could be seen visually. but i can imagine that not working.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 14, 2009)

hammers-n-nails  said:
			
		

> what kind of loading device do you have in mind? i would like to build one also but about the only thing i could think of was to find a small generator or make one from electric motor and light up blubs or something else that could be seen visually. but i can imagine that not working.



Very simple--An 8" diameter x 3/8" thick disc with a 3/8" hole in the center, supported on a 3/8" diameter shaft with a groove around the outer diameter of the disc for a 1/8" o-ring drive belt. One half of the disc will be solid, the other side will be all machined out. An o-ring drive belt from the non-governor flywheel will drive the disc. When the solid side of the disc is being "lifted" by rotation, the engine will be under load, so will "fire" on every stroke. As the solid side of the disc rotates "over center", gravity will assist the engine to rotate it, consequently the engine will "race" under no-load condition---the governors will disengage the cam, and the engine will "miss" untill the solid part of the disc starts to "lift" again.


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## vlmarshall (Jul 14, 2009)

Ha, that'll give it a nice "oilfield" sound, for sure.


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## hammers-n-nails (Jul 14, 2009)

a fine idea, the disk will be rotatng very slow i assume what ratio will that make? it wont work for me because my engine doesnt have a governor. i did make a crude dyno one time that i believe is called a prony brake to fit the flywheel. made it out of two pieces of plywood on the band saw, hinged at the back with a screw on the front to adjust the clamping force. it seemed to work fine and did give readings very near what should be expected from calculation, the problem is that it makes alot of heat and can only be used for a few minutes at 100% load.


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## cfellows (Jul 14, 2009)

Brian, any way you could crank the pressure up to about 100 - 110 PSI? That way, one hit might get it up high enough to trip the governor...

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 27, 2009)

Some folks have been asking me about the springs that I used in this engine. ---I just measured the spring that operates the 1/4" diameter sliding valve inside the cylinder head.---It is 0.19" o.d. x 0.023" dia. wire x 1.4" free length and the pitch is measured at approx. 0.077" .  The spring which keeps the valve in contact with the cam is 0.25" o.d. x 0.023" dia. wire x 1.5" free length and the pitch is approximately 0.1" (Note that in the final build of my engine I departed from the blueprints in that area). The spring in the governor is 0.31" o.d. x 0.020" wire x 3/4" free length x ??? pitch (I've lost that spring--when I disassembled the hit and miss valving to put on a conventional valve system, the spring escaped and was last seen flying under my desk at 300 MPH.)


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## mklotz (Aug 27, 2009)

Thanks for that, Brian.

Also not specified in the prints is the length of the floating piston in the slave valve. By scaling the print I make it out to be about 0.375". Does that sound about right? (I doubt that it's very critical.)


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 27, 2009)

Yes, it is 3/8" long.---Brian


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## cfellows (Aug 28, 2009)

Marv (& Brian),

Not to confuse things, but in later versions of this valve design, I started using a ball bearing instead of a piston valve.

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 28, 2009)

One thing I have to make clear---There was nothing scientific about my selections of the springs that I used. We have a local (to Ontario) nut and bolt company that has a selection of springs in a grey metal box. I am sure EVERY fastner company has the same selection of springs, probably in the same grey metal box!!! I just went in and purchased small, light compression springs that were the correct diameter to fit my application and hoped for the best---and they worked.


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