# 32x40 H Gas engine



## Brian40 (Mar 25, 2014)

As I am a new member on this forum forgive me if I get things wrong.
This engine is to be a scratch build and I am in the process of doing some doodles for the basic layout. this is going to be a long haul.
Brian.


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## Brian40 (Mar 26, 2014)

Well that's the doodling done, now I have to find 60x60 iron bar in Europe, at the right price.

Brian.


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## Brian40 (Mar 29, 2014)

The order for the material is in , now just waiting on the postman. 
The working drawing for the barrel is done. 
Brian


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## Brian40 (Apr 10, 2014)

The first bits of iron have arrived 
It's time to start making chips.
brian.


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## Brian40 (Apr 16, 2014)

The first machining operation was to square up the material for the head.
As I do not have a reliable mill vice the dividing head was pressed into service as an angle block, with the 3-2-1- blocks as back up to get things square, this made a good set up keeping the job near to the table, and lowering the mill head , so keeping flex to the minimum.
The next job was to cut away the lower part of the embryo cylinder head, to bring it to a point where the real work can begin
So we are on the way.
Brian.


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## Brian40 (Apr 26, 2014)

the piston and liner blanks have now have now been bought to near size.
 the piston is now mounted on a arbor for finishing the external size but this will wait until the liner is finished and in turn this must wait until the barrel is done.

Unfortunately the material for the barrel has a casting flaw so I am waiting for a new  bit in the post.

While waiting for the post again i have done the valve timing diagram ,just another bit out of the way.
Brian.


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## Brian40 (May 1, 2014)

New material arrived yesterday, so i am up to my ankles in chips,making up for lost time roughing out the cylinder blank.
 photos tomorrow if i can find the time.
 Brian.


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## Brian40 (May 6, 2014)

Barrel coming along nicely.


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## Brian40 (May 7, 2014)

Moving on , the barrel now has the water jacket bored and the liner flange recess put in .
The lump on the top is going to be the rocker arm pivot 
The 10mm alloy plate has arrived for the crank case. the problem is the sailing season is starting and I move onto the boat for the summer. so progress will slow down for a few months.  
Brian H .


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## gus (May 8, 2014)

Hi Brian.

Will follow your posts. I am about to get started on the Nemett-Lynx Engine. Materials arrved last week.


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## Brian40 (May 8, 2014)

Hi Gus.
I look forward to seeing you build the Lynx, after reading your H&M build, I am sure it will be very interesting.
Today I managed to turn the O D of the liner  to fit the barrel, it's a slip fit sealing will be by a paper gasket under the flange that will raise the flange just enough to get a good seal on the head gasket, the lower end will be sealed by a "o" ring trapped between the barrel and the crank case,and nipping the liner. I haven't decided 
whether to make the "o" ring groove a 45° bevel or a square I will ponder the problem.
Brian.


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## Brian40 (May 11, 2014)

Next job was to fit the front plate that will also nip the "o" ring that will seal the barrel to the liner.
Brian.


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## Brian40 (May 21, 2014)

Fitted the head blank by transfer drilling the barrel.  This now gives me the threads in the barrel that I need to fix the liner in place without the head. so I can finish bore the liner on the mill.

Brian


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## Brian40 (Oct 18, 2014)

Hi all 
Sorry for not keeping up to date but I have been on the boat most of the time and trying to get in workshop time when I'am at home .Just working my way through my postings.
A lot of progress has been made , head --valves -- cylinder--crank case-- ETC  I will post more pics Soon

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72561&stc=1&d=1413624681


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## GailInNM (Oct 18, 2014)

Your engine is coming along nicely Brian.
I will be interested to see how your valve arrangement works out.  It islll an unusual arrangement from most model gas engines and I like that. Sure looks like it will work fine.
Gail in NM


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## Brian40 (Oct 18, 2014)

That was the whole idea Gail  I think as we go along you will find a few other things done a little differently.

Thanks for your interest, Sometimes I feel I am doing this Just for myself??

Brian.


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## GailInNM (Oct 18, 2014)

Brian,
I know the feeling about posting into empty space. But, although you don't have many replies there are a bunch of us following along.  You have over 2500 views on this thread.  I should have posted earlier but because of a medical problem typing has been difficult for a few months so mostly I have just been reading the posts.

If you have seen any of my threads on opposed piston engines you know that I like to model things that are out of the ordinary. It's a lot more fun to make something new from some crazy idea in your head, and inspiration can come from so many things that have been tried in the past and never really caught on.

Keep it up

Gail in NM


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## Brian40 (Oct 18, 2014)

Picking up from the point where i was about to bore the liner.I clamped it in the block to ensure it was all in line then used the boring head on the mill.

The piston blank was then bought to size and lapped to the liner.

More tomorrow. Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2014)

Nice work Brian. It is a very interesting engine, and I hadn't noticed this thread before, but I have been very busy with things of my own. Will follow your build now and possibly learn something.---Brian Rupnow


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## Brian40 (Oct 19, 2014)

The holes for the valve guides-- ports and the access plugs that allow the valves to be fitted, all have to be in line so they were drilled at the same setting starting with the smallest, this was the first real work on the head.
Next job was to mill out the combustion chamber to meet the ports on the top and the plugs at the bottom. clenched bu--- time.. and then drill the 90° ports to connect up . 



Brian


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## Brian40 (Oct 20, 2014)

Time had come to think about the valve seats, first of all it was necessary to spot face the area that the seat was to to be to get an even surface, I did not have a end mill of the correct size to do the job so i improvised by making a mandrel that fitted the bore of the valve access port the ground down a Dremel silting wheel to fit the end, the result was a perfect spot face. 
this led me to think that a similar approach could be taken to the seats, so a similar mandrel was made with a 90° cutter fitted in the end ,this resulted in a perfect narrow 45° seat, it will be interesting to see how this seals when the time comes.
Sorry the pics are not to good my baby camera finds this a bit hard.

Brian


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## Brian40 (Oct 22, 2014)

Returning to the barrel the next job was to shape the rocker supports.
so it was on to the mill and cut the slots, then fit my very poor quality angle vice and shape the angles.

Slowly slowly  Brian.


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## Brian40 (Oct 24, 2014)

The valves are turned from stainless steel of unknown type so it will be interesting to see how they perform.
 Having got the valves done I threaded the access holes, spot faced the area to take the washer and made the threaded plugs.
 Brian.


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## Brian40 (Oct 26, 2014)

Building the crank case was a job I was not looking forward to I t is held together with 22 screws, that's 44 holes to be drilled that all have to line up.
So I decided to trust the I gauges on the mill totally, No marking out just find the edges with the finder and use the X Y. It worked a treat who needs CNC.
The orange tube is to test the alignment.


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## Brian40 (Oct 28, 2014)

Having started on the alloy plate the next part was the connecting rod. the cap material was sawn off then squared and replaced prior to boring the hole for the bearing.
the small end was rounded using the rotary table and the shoulders of the big end shaped with the boring head then the sides where milled to size.
 Nearly up to date with the back log of work.

 Brian


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## Brian40 (Oct 30, 2014)

One of the pieces trimmed off to make the rod just happened to be the right size for the blank for one of the timing gears. so I made a quick cutter and set about getting the job done I set up the mating pairs on the depthing tool that I use for clock gears to prove the mesh, all ran as smooth as silk.

 Brian.


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## Brian40 (Nov 4, 2014)

While I am waiting for the material for the crank to arrive I have been working on a jig to determine the cam angle for the correct valve timing when using a roller follower. before I commit to making the camshaft proper.

 Brian.


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## Brian40 (Nov 5, 2014)

Just 3°on the cam angle and 2mm on the roller diameter and I have the settings I want.

 Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 28, 2014)

Brian40--What is happening with this very interesting build. I keep checking for updates.--Brian


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## jj-smith (Nov 28, 2014)

GailInNM said:


> Brian,
> I know the feeling about posting into empty space. But, although you don't have many replies there are a bunch of us following along.  You have over 2500 views on this thread.  I should have posted earlier but because of a medical problem typing has been difficult for a few months so mostly I have just been reading the posts.
> 
> If you have seen any of my threads on opposed piston engines you know that I like to model things that are out of the ordinary. It's a lot more fun to make something new from some crazy idea in your head, and inspiration can come from so many things that have been tried in the past and never really caught on.
> ...



Howdy folks  

I'm reading this and liking it too.
I'll follow along behind the scenes, and I agree with Gail's statement to like things out of the ordinairy or just plain done my way!

It sure looks interesting sofar,

Regards, J.


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## jj-smith (Nov 28, 2014)

Just my luck Brian,

Finally have something really interesting to follow but now I wonder.

I hope everything is OK B40.

Cheers, J.


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## Brian40 (Dec 1, 2014)

Hi all sorry to have disappeared for a while but I have been waiting for material and have had guests. 
Also on my return I find my posts reduced to thumbnails . I am not a Happy Camper??

However after my last post I made the wheel to carry the ignition timing magnet it matches the cam shaft gear and fits on the opposite end of the cam the pair have now been crossed out in a 5 spoke pattern, this will eventually be carried thro to the flywheels.

Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 1, 2014)

Glad you are back. Your posts are not showing up as thumbnails on my computer. They show up full (correct) size, Maybe it's a setting on your computer?---Brian


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## Brian40 (Dec 1, 2014)

That's strange  they have reverted to full size on mine to.
 Thanks for the input Brian what with the ad's and small photo's I was wondering if it was worth posting at all.
 Started on the blanks for the crank today. picks to follow.

 Brian.


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## Swifty (Dec 1, 2014)

For a short while there was a problem with the photo's being thumbnails or just links, but as you see that has been rectified. As far as ads go, I never see any, are you logged in correctly? I believe that if you check out the forum without being logged in, you will see the ads.

Paul.


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## Brian40 (Dec 1, 2014)

Thanks  Swifty after I logged in to answer Brian R, everything reverted to normal. 
 Brian.


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## Brian40 (Dec 9, 2014)

At last the materials arrived so I immediately started on the crank shaft, the main shaft was turned between centres to keep things nice and straight. 
then the web blanks where turned to size in the lathe and a undersize hole drilled in the centre. then transferred to the mill and the hole bored out the using the DRO the it was offset to bore the hole fore the big end pin ( no marking out required )

I am now starting on the flywheels, so I have all the parts that go on the main shaft, and can see if I have dropped any clangers. before threading the shaft ends.
 Brian.


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## Brian40 (Dec 14, 2014)

So I have a 5" diameter chunk of steel that will not fit on my 7x12 so it's of to the mill to hack out a channel for the chuck to get a grip on.
Then on to the lathe to turn the blanks, the blank was then centred on the rotary table to drill the holes at the corners of the spokes. having done this it mas a simple game of join the dot's to end up with two flywheels

One day I am going to learn how to get the photos in-between the captions, ONE day.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 15, 2014)

Looking very good. I am quite excited to see this coming together.---Brian


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## Brian40 (Dec 16, 2014)

Just had to try the crank in position to see if all is OK 
Then started on the big end. splitting the bronze in half the soldering it back together, and finally turning down the OD and boring the ID, had to use the boring head as it was the only tool I had small enough.
more tomorrow. 



Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 16, 2014)

This is one of the most fascinating designs I have seen in a long time. I am really looking forward to seeing this run.---Brian


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## Brian40 (Dec 17, 2014)

Final photo's of the bearing.

 Boy am I glad to get that out of the way.

 Brian.


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## gus (Dec 17, 2014)

Seen my uncles next door(machineshop) machine split bush bearing for big circular saws from raw bronze castings. Casting came in two halves,with mating surface shaped flat and joined back with soft soft solder and turned on the Overhead Pulley Drive Lathe.Only inside and outside Calipers were used. No Mikes yet.These uncles have never seen any micrometers. No HSS Cutting Tools. Just Carbon Steel Tools which they forged in house over a smithy forge.
This was way back in 1955 when I was a 8 year old kid.

Every machine tool(lathes,shapers.jig borers and drill press) was driven by the overhead pulley drive with a 30 hp motor.


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## Brian40 (Dec 18, 2014)

To lubricate the big end a drip feed oiler will feed oil onto the outer side of the crank web then centrifugal force will spin it into the collector ring and pass it to the big end.

Good lube with less mess I hope.

Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 18, 2014)

Won't that make for a very "messy" engine when running it?


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## Brian40 (Dec 18, 2014)

The engine is going to have an enclosed crankcase the idea was to get a good lube without splash feed. the amount of oil will be similar to the type with a cup on the big end but I will not have to stop the engine to refill the cup. a second oiler will lube the bore and the cam will be lube'd by a felt pad under the cam

 Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 18, 2014)

If I was building that engine, I would want all of those beautiful moving parts exposed. Lots of nifty motion to be seen there.


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## Brian40 (Dec 19, 2014)

Hi  Brian.
  I agree the valve gear will be open ,and the crank will have a clip on cover for when I want to run the engine for longer periods. the engine in my avatar used a similar cover but that one was splash feed so the cover was very necessary and the motor ran for long periods at a time without attention.


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## Brian40 (Dec 19, 2014)

Today was the day for the fiddly bits. fitting the pins to the connecting rod. and balancing the crank.
 only the threads on the ends of the main shaft to retain the flywheels and the keyway's to do and the crank can be assembled and pinned.

 Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 3, 2015)

Where are we at on this fascinating engine? I had to take a real close look today to determine that it was going to be water cooled, but you must be planning on a remote reservoir with a pump for circulation---Is that right?---Brian


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## Brian40 (Jan 4, 2015)

Hi Brian 
 Just back from cold and windy  Scotland to find Sicily freezing, nearly all the local's have outside water tanks and pipes so lot's of problems. when we restored our house we put everything inside so we are ok.

 I am working on two systems for the engine, one thermo syphon, and one pumped, I think the thermo syphon will be first to prove the motor  then we will see. 

 Picked up the 1/2" UNF nuts for the crank so the next job will be threading the ends of the shaft and cutting the keyway's.

 Glad you are finding it interesting . Brian.


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## Brian40 (Jan 5, 2015)

So it was into the shop today to thread the shaft ends and mill the keyways for the fly wheel and timing gear.
 It' getting near the time to put this crank together !!!!


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## tornitore45 (Jan 5, 2015)

Beautiful and beefy engine.
Granted that it will be a slow revving engine but I wander if those long rocker arms may have quite a bit of inertia to follow the cam.


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## Brian40 (Jan 5, 2015)

Hi Mauro
 In the original design I was going to use bronze rockers so that I could have flat slippers on the cam . then I came to the same conclusion  that the inertia may be to high so I have changed to alloy rockers with roller followers ( see post 27  ) the rockers are only 10 cm long over all so a alloy I or T shape will do the job I think, if not I will uprate the springs a little.
 Thanks for the input much appreciated.

 Brian.


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## Brian40 (Jan 6, 2015)

It's the day !! go for broke and put the crank together.
When I made the shaft I left a area in the centre that will form flanges in between the webs and this will be used to keep every thing in line during the gluing process.
First the pin. then the shaft held hard up to the flange. and finally the second web held in a similar way. a hour was allowed between each stage. and the parts kept Hand warm because my shop is cold at the moment.
The crank will now be left until tomorrow, when I will think about pinning it.

Brian.


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## Brian40 (Jan 7, 2015)

This is it, the finished crank. Tested between centres the run out at the main bearings is .01mm more than good enough.

Brian.


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## gus (Jan 7, 2015)

Hi Brian,
Congrats. 0.01mm  equals 0.0004'' is a fantastic run out. On the old Ingersoll-Rand 100 hp compressors I get 1/2---1 thou. In 60s and 70s dial gage reading of 0.0005 has yet to appear in Singapore. 

Will monkey see.monkey do , using your method.


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## Brian40 (Jan 8, 2015)

Thanks Gus
I started with my inch gauge that has a resolution of one thou per division. and thought that cant be right so I changed to the metric that reads ,01 per div and it confirmed it. you can imagine how I felt !!!

you may also be interested in the set up for milling out the centre. 
at first the crank was between the dividing head and a centre, all seemed ok but I was concerned what might happen when the cutter broke through,
so I changed to the Jacobs chuck to ensure that it was all under control.

Brian.


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## Brian40 (Jan 16, 2015)

Now on with the piston. the blank had been made and lapped to the liner.
so the next job was to drill the hole for the wrist pin so it was set up in the mill vice to keep it nice and square then drilled and reamed .

the skirt area was then turned to size before returning to the mill to relieve the area for the small end.
I have not ordered the ring's for this yet and I am wondering if it really needs them the piston is a perfect fit in the bore iron on iron there should be no expansion problems ,,, small CI engines run without rings and at higher compression than this is going to have Only 4-1.
when put together and you put your hand over the end no leakage can be heard past the piston it just blows your hand off the end. well time to play later.
Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 16, 2015)

If you find that it doesn't have sufficient compression to run with no rings, you could just put one single Viton o-ring on the piston. That's what I do, and they seal perfectly, right from the word go. I have never had much success with cast iron rings.---Brian


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## Brian40 (Jan 19, 2015)

Thanks for the O ring info  I had made a note of that from reading your other builds.
so its the cam!!! the blank was turned between centres so I can return later to form the bearings etc but for the moment it was left at base circle diameter for max strength.
After forming the blank, it was on to the mill to cut away the base circle to produce the cam. that put the pucker factor up a bit I can tell you.


Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 19, 2015)

I have found that when cutting cams I can hold my breath seven or eight minutes at a time, just like those pearl diver guys in the south Pacific!!


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## gus (Jan 20, 2015)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I have found that when cutting cams I can hold my breath seven or eight minutes at a time, just like those pearl diver guys in the south Pacific!!



Hi Brian,

Thats true. Thought I would die with cam cutting after losing 6 cams. Must be the breath holding that cut oxygen to my brains.:rant:

End of the story.Gus became ''cam smart''.  The endmills must be very sharp and the brains even sharper. 

Weather turning warmer there.


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## Brian40 (Jan 21, 2015)

I think the worst part is that I now have to wait until the engine is finished to se if it's all ok I will have nibbled my fingernails down to the elbows by then.
Now on to the sub assembly that carries the cam bearings --the oil pad for the cams-- and the drip feed oilers.
Never a dull moment 30 odd drawings done and a lot still to do. let alone the parts.
Thanks for the support.     Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 21, 2015)

You will find, (or may know already) that unless you are aiming for extreme high performance, cams on four cycle engines are very forgiving.----and that's a good thing!!!---Brian


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## Brian40 (Jan 23, 2015)

Just a few more photo's showing the cam sub assy in the rough. the flat plate between the camshaft supports will be the mounting for the two drip oilers, one for the cylinder an the other for the big end.

Brian


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## Brian40 (Jan 24, 2015)

Not  a lot today just milled out the shaft clearance and the pits for the cam lube felts  Just to cold in the shop.

Brian.


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## Brian40 (Jan 28, 2015)

Next job on the list was to mount the cam sub assy and fit the oilers. the pipe work will come later
I also have made a start on the carb. and have ordered parts to make the on demand gas valve so things are really starting to move.

Brian.


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## Brian40 (Feb 1, 2015)

Yesterday was a big day ,the valves where put in and the rockers made.
At last it starts to look like a engine. the spark plug is ordered and the gasket material for the head so it wont be long before I can try the compression, carburettor is under way and the diaphragm for the on demand gas regulator has been ordered. It's all go in the shop at the moment.

Brian.


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## gus (Feb 1, 2015)

Hi Brian.

Propane is a cleaner fuel for our DIY Engines. Please advise source of gas demand valve drawing. 
Gus planning build a small 4 stroke engine using propane gas after Howell V-2.


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## Brian40 (Feb 2, 2015)

Hi Gus
This is the company that I am getting my plans and parts from
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/engineplans/bookshelf/demandvalve.htm

I do not know what the max size of engine this valve will cope with but I am going to give it a try
my engine is 32 cc .

Brian.


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## RonGinger (Feb 2, 2015)

That setup using the 1-2-3 blocks as a clamp is a great idea, I will  remember that one, thanks,


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## Brian40 (Feb 2, 2015)

Hi Ron 
I use this set up all the time it's accurate and gets the head nearer the table so there is less flex in the column.
If you look at the early posts in this thread you will see  lots of examples of it.

Glad you like it  Brian.


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## Brian40 (Feb 2, 2015)

Limited shop time today it's just to cold but made some progress on the carb. 

 Brian.


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## gus (Feb 2, 2015)

Brian40 said:


> Hi Gus
> This is the company that I am getting my plans and parts from
> http://www.model-engine-plans.com/engineplans/bookshelf/demandvalve.htm
> 
> ...




Hi Brian,
Thanks for vendor info. Best to buy this vendor, plan and diaphragm. Bought V-2 engine plans came from same.


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## Brian40 (Feb 3, 2015)

Not a lot done today to cold again, Coming up to 75 years old and feeling it, drilled the idle mixture holes and made the main ventury ? had to make the tool to cut the internal curve. Perhaps tomorrow I will make the mixture adjustment components ,!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 3, 2015)

Brian--That engine is turning out to be a real beauty!! What material did you cut your gears from? It looks like aluminum. I am surprised at your age. For some reason I thought you were much younger, probably in your middle fifties.--Not sure why. I tend to form impressions by people from their posts, and I am often surprised.


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## Brian40 (Feb 4, 2015)

The gears are 5083 alloy same as the crankcase etc, carb body is 6082.
I also am happy with the appearance of the engine it's nice to build something different from the run of the mill motors . at least any problems are all of my own making.
Time creeps up on all of us, I keep fairly active and sail most of the summer, but long stints ( over 12 hrs ) tend to make me tired so I leave the wife in charge and have a nap. after all she is only 72.

Regards Brian


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## Brian40 (Feb 4, 2015)

Made the mixture controls today and started on the outer end plate

slowly-- slowly. Brian.


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## Brian40 (Feb 6, 2015)

Not a lot of shop time today, but got the front plate done with the idle screw. and an air filter to stop Elephants falling into the engine !!!
Hopefully one more day will see it done, all we have to do then is wait to see if it works gas carb jets are massive compared. with those for liquid fuel so we will only know when the engine it test run what is going to work.

Brian,


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## Davewild (Feb 7, 2015)

Hey Brian

Just read this from the start, nice engine and it looks like I'm going to see it run very soon, great work.

Dave


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## ZebDog (Feb 7, 2015)

Same as Dave just read this from the beginning a great job on this project

will there be any plans for download ?

Steve


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## Brian40 (Feb 7, 2015)

Hi Dave  and Steve
Thanks for the nice comments. It helps during those times when things are not going as planed, to know someone is interested.

 When the project is running to my satisfaction. it will be a plans book, so far I have taken over 300 photographs and done nearly 40  individual A4 plans. this will be distilled into a book with building notes. It will not be expensive. and all registered builders will have access to me through my web site. see bottom of page.
A way to go yet.  the ignition and gas demand valve to make and a few bits of tidying up to do ,but we are getting there.
Brian.


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## Brian40 (Feb 9, 2015)

Did some work on the Cup that takes the oil from the drip feed down into the collector ring on the crank.
and the spark plug arrived so that's the jobs for tomorrow sorted out if it's not to cold in the shop it's minus 4° c at the moment, not normal Med weather.
Brian.


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## Brian40 (Feb 13, 2015)

On with the small jobs , the second cup that feeds oil to the cylinder was mounted and the case reassembled.
the cylinder head required further work to improve the cooling , I had to wait until the position of various components where firmly established before cutting away more of the material whilst the head was stripped I took the chance to lap the valves into the seats, the lapping compound for this was made by dissolving some buffing soap in paint thinning's then adding a little oil as the thinning's evaporated. it was very successful. further work has been done on the carb installation.
I am now waiting for the ignition components from MiniMag and the diaphragm for the gas control valve.
Installation if ignition components including advance and retard have to be worked out.
Nearing the end I now have to return to all the jobs that where skipped I:E: radius various components to stop them looking like a cubist sculpture. De burring and removing tool marks E.T.C.

The radiator and silencer can be done after the engine has had a test run, only then can I un cross my fingers and use two hands to finish the work.

Brian


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## Brian40 (Feb 24, 2015)

The work shop is just to cold for long jobs so I have done a little work on the odd jobs that I have been ignoring, Hoping the magic fairy will do them. 
Water outlet and exhaust stub. are done, water inlet and ignition control still to do, also the gas demand valve, but it's getting there.

Note it's on my desk not in the shop.

Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 24, 2015)

Brian--It is cold here too. Yesterday was the coldest 23 Feb ever recorded for this part of Ontario, Canada, since they started keeping records  in the 1970's.--Brian Rupnow


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## Brian40 (Feb 25, 2015)

No work in the shop today, Took time to get a few drawings done.
The ignition components arrived, so the ignition timing quadrant was laid out. if it warms up I will make that tomorrow.
Progress is slow but its getting done gradually, 
Brian.


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## Brian40 (Feb 26, 2015)

A little more today the ignition quadrant with its magnetic pick up is installed this will allow the ignition to be controlled by a leaver at the rear of the engine.

Brian.


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## Brian40 (Mar 1, 2015)

No a lot to show for today, but the temporary cooling tower is finished , made from a old fire extinguisher from the boat . cleaned up a few things that needed de burring. waiting for a unf tap that has been in the post for three weeks. and a video cube camera that is still not due for two weeks.:rant: this waiting is getting to me .  Brian.


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## Brian40 (Mar 4, 2015)

The leaver for the advance/ retard is now in place.
Post arrived today with the tap for the gas demand valve , so that's tomorrows job then I think I have run out of excuses not to give it a spin. apart from I am still waiting for a video cam in the post.

Brian.


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## Brian40 (Mar 8, 2015)

We have a runner. now I need to find out how to upload vid's.
Brian.;D;D;D


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## Brian40 (Mar 8, 2015)

Video is on youtube [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtX0KFoT5hE&feature=youtu.be[/ame] see if it works

brian


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## Art K (Mar 8, 2015)

Brian,
I think at some tome in the past I read some of your post but read back through to recap. This build is very impressive, and runs verrrry smooth.
Art


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 8, 2015)

Very impressive Brian. A great build thread!!---Brian Rupnow


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## gus (Mar 9, 2015)

Hi Brain,
Engine runs very smooth and solid w/o clanking away. Very solid thuds and putts. This one engine I like to build but no way with my mini lathe and mill.


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## Brian40 (Mar 14, 2015)

After the test run I have now fitted the piston rings and started the job of tidying up and painting the cast iron parts also a cover has yet to be made for the crank case so the engine can be run for extended periods.
Lots more to do.  Brian.


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## Brian40 (Apr 5, 2015)

At last I have managed to get free of the computer  tidying the drawings and doing the shop notes took longer than I expected but it's all done and plans are available. the engine now has it's rings fitted and runs just fine the idle is OK but I think that the silencer has to be just right to get the best idle . I am in the process of editing a new video but it's a case of old dogs and new trick's.
 However here are a few photos to go on with.
And thank you to all that have given support during the build
Brian


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## Brian40 (Apr 6, 2015)

I think I have the video sorted keep fingers crossed.:wall:
https://youtu.be/4Y6czQ-s9NU


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## Brian40 (Apr 12, 2015)

I now have about 70 mins running on the engine and am slowly beginning to understand the gas carburetion.
 The demand valve has required a little attention  getting the diaphragm positioned relative to the control valve.

Then the supply pressure gradually was reduced from 3 psi down to just under 1 psi and may go lower yet.
Each time I alter something in the supply, the mixture controls require resetting.  and are becoming more responsive
 When I made the carb I had to take a few guesses as to the size of the jets required  because unlike liquid fuels that have to change into gas the jets have to be larger, 
 I have found that it is unnecessary to use fine needle valves Just a simple flat ended screw passing the control orifice is all that is required.

So far I am very happy with this system it is so easy and clean to operate.

I will continue with the adjustments as the engine runs in but as I see it in the future liquid fuels are a no no for me.

Brian.


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## fourstroke (Apr 21, 2015)

Hi Brian
Thanks for responding to my question about the propane carb I posted

Your engine is fantastic, congratulations on a great design

Can I purchase a copy of your gas carb to see if I can modify it to fit me engines?

Regards
Dougie


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## Brian40 (Apr 21, 2015)

Hi Dougie.
In the book the chapter on building the carb is 5 pages. 
So if you go to my web site and send me your e mail address I will send it as a attachment.
 On the site you will find a Donation button.
The original has an alloy body, but if it was brass you would not need Loctite but could soft solder the parts together.
just a thought,  if you require any help Just call.

Brian


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## fourstroke (Apr 21, 2015)

Thanks Brian

I cant find the donation button, only the plans for your clock

can you tell me where to donate?

Thanks

Dougie


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## Brian40 (Apr 21, 2015)

Sorry Dougie my fault entirely its on the lathe projects page.
Use one of the contact slips to send your email address. there is one on the home page and one on the contacts page.
Brian.


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