# Panther Pup Build Started



## jgedde (Jan 23, 2016)

After finishing the Solidworks model (http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=25266), I generated working drawings for the distributor and started cutting. An odd part to start with? Well yes. But, I made the distributor parts out of G10 and G11 fiberglass. Messy stuff to work with and I wanted to get it over with. It sticks to everything with oil on it, and sucks up oil like a sponge. So, my lathe and mill will need a through cleaning and reoiling afterwards.

In any event, I started the distributor cover, wire guides and rotor housing along with a decorative brass disc. I then colored the G10 parts black by boiling them in black RIT fabric dye with a 1/2 cup of vinegar mixed into the water. After that, an application of shellac applied French poilsh style to deepen the color and to prevent black fingers from handling. 

The brass disc and the wire guides were CA glued into the cover and the wire outlets drilled through.

I then started on the distrbutor contact plate. 5 brass terminals pressed into a uncolored G11 contact plate. The terminals were then faced off flush with the rotor side. After pressing in the terminals, wires were soldered onto the terminals.  No problems with the soldering heat affecting the G11 disc or the press fits as expected (G11 is a high temp material)

Then, everything was assembled. Now onto the rotor...

Fellow Panther Pup builders will see from the pics that I've changed the distributor design to eliminate the spring and thumbscrew Bill Reichert used in his design in favor of a cover retained with counterbored screws. This cleans up the appearance, allows the coil wire to exit out the bottom, and allowed the brass disc.

Cheers!
John


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## Herbiev (Jan 23, 2016)

Looking great John. Keep the pics coming.


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## jgedde (Jan 24, 2016)

Yesterday I finished the distributor rotor. See pics below... Today I made a cylinder, sort of... Next post I'll show a major goof on an otherwise perfect cylinder...

John


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## jgedde (Jan 24, 2016)

As promised, here is the cylinder and the goof... The ends of the cylinder are supposed to be square in shape. I figured I'd do all the lathe work, the square the ends in the mill...

As you can see, I goofed and didn't leave enough material to make the ends square! The print scale is 1:1.

Looks like the 2" stock I have won't work out... Corner to corner is 2.121"

(The drawing underneath is my modified cylinder design that accepts a cast iron sleeve and has more (and larger fins). The drawing came from the Solidworks model and is not Mr. Reichert's design. Mr. Reichert's plans are copyrighted.)

John


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 24, 2016)

Try squaring it up and see if the holes that mount the cylinder are still "usable". Maybe you might just need a slight redesign?


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## jgedde (Jan 24, 2016)

Alas no. Not even close. The holes don't even touch the OD. If I bring the holes inboard in the head, the holes break through into the intake and exhaust passages.

I started making a new one. I did the square portions first and did the lathe work after. All I have to do is cut the fins and I'm all set. 

I did entertain a cylinder head redesign to make round heads instead. I started playing around with the idea, but I'd have to bring the valves closer together to make intake and exhaust passages not have the head mounting scrcews break through to their bores.

I liked the idea of round heads since I think they look better - more aircraft-like. Oh well, next engine build...

The fins will be harder to cut on the proper piece since my cutting tool will need more overhang to reach the ID....

John


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## jgedde (Jan 26, 2016)

Success! After an adventure with an import parting blade holder I got it made!  3 more to go...


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 26, 2016)

Nice!!!!!!


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## jgedde (Jan 27, 2016)

Tonight I made a cast iron (G2 Durabar) cylinder sleeve for the cylinder fabricated yesterday. The sleeve was made 0.003 in. oversize. To install the liner, the aluminum cylinder was heated with a propane torch and the sleeve dropped right in. When cool, it locked in place.  The sleeve is now in intimate contact with the aluminum for good heat transfer. Better contact than a press fit.

It's now ready for final honing to an ID of 1.000". The ID is sitting at .9986 right now. We have a Sunnen hone at work begging for work...

3 more cylinders and sleeves to go...

John


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## jgedde (Jan 27, 2016)

Just wondering if anyone is following this thread apart from SteveHuckSS396....  I'm guessing y'all are just quiet so as to not clutter up the build posts...

John


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## Cogsy (Jan 27, 2016)

I'm following along. Great progress so far, looking forward to the rest.


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## driller1432 (Jan 27, 2016)

Looking good! I was wondering if any one else used sunnen hone for cylinders like I do . 
View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453954450.273998.jpg

View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453954555.162940.jpg

Steve


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## michael-au (Jan 28, 2016)

There are always people watching...nice work so far....will be watch the build


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## grapegro (Jan 28, 2016)

Hello John,
               I have the book on the panther pup engine build, possibly my next project. Am more than interested in your build, especially the idea of sleeves.
Good luck, Norm


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## jgedde (Jan 28, 2016)

grapegro said:


> Hello John,
> I have the book on the panther pup engine build, possibly my next project. Am more than interested in your build, especially the idea of sleeves.
> Good luck, Norm


 
Norm,
If you're interested in what was revised and changed, I can share my drawings with you showing the changes after each part is built and I can validate the design...

John


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## jgedde (Jan 28, 2016)

Thanks everyone!  I'll keep up the posts.

I ordered aluminum castings for the crankcase from LMS and they came day before yesterday.  The machining of those should be an adventure...

John


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## jgedde (Jan 29, 2016)

More progress today and yesterday night. Made the distributor mounting plate and the timer body. Arcs were machined using my mill DRO's arc function which I hadn't used before. The radius over the top of the mounting plate and the radius around the clamp were both made like this. I was too lazy to set up the rotary table and 'klooge' a way to clamp the workpieces.  If you look close you can see evidence of repeated plunge cuts around the clamp radius.

Came out well! I will use that feature a lot more often now!

The plate on the right has had a coating of clear/amber shellac applied French polish style to prevent patina. I like the golden hue!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 29, 2016)

From the timer I assume you are going to use the point system originally designed?


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## dnalot (Jan 29, 2016)

Hi



> Just wondering if anyone is following this thread apart from SteveHuckSS396.... I'm guessing y'all are just quiet so as to not clutter up the build posts...



I'm following along. I do a lot of posts that have no responses. If the post gets hits over time I figure some are interested and continue on. 

Mark T


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## 10K Pete (Jan 29, 2016)

I don't make much noise when I'm learning. Dad always said it's hard to
hear with yer jaw hangin' open.  That CNC thing is really cool.

Pete


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## grapegro (Jan 30, 2016)

Hello John,
               I am mid way building an 1895 Otto Deutz engine and am working on it when I get time. I may get back to you at a later stage, thank you for the offer.
Norm


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## jgedde (Jan 30, 2016)

stevehuckss396 said:


> From the timer I assume you are going to use the point system originally designed?


 
Yes it will not be electronic....  

Despite having designed, with Dave Sage, the ignition circuit described here: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=20415
and published in Model Engine Builder (issue 34), I'm going old school for this build.  There's a certain romance to having points and a condensor... 

Since they're so visible in this design, it also adds mechanical interest..

John


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## jgedde (Jan 31, 2016)

Completed the timer and points today...  Points are Standard AL-5661X.

John


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 1, 2016)

Nice work on the timer.


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## jgedde (Feb 5, 2016)

A few more tapped and clearance holes and I'll have 4 cylinders done...

John


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 5, 2016)

Nice job. They look real nice.


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## jgedde (Feb 6, 2016)

This morning I made piston rings. I thought they'd be hard to make, but it was actually quite easy.

Starting with cast iron bar, I turned the OD to 1.0005 and ID to 0.920 (The engine is a 1.000 inch bore with .898 dia ring grooves).

I then parted off rings 0.067 thick. They were lapped on sandpaper to 0.0625 thickness which also removed burrs and gave them a nice smooth side finish.

I then placed the ring in a vice with the ring tangent to the edge. Some finger pressure and the ring broke making the gap to be. The new gap was filed square to about 0.010 wide to create a slight gap when the rings are installed to allow for expansion.

Now to open the gap and make them springy... I though this would be difficult but was a piece of cake. I used the method described here: http://users.tpg.com.au/agnet/make%20piston%20rings.html

I made 13 rings expecting attrition, but I ended up with 13 good rings. I only need 8 so I'll have spares in case I break one installing them.

John


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## jgedde (Feb 7, 2016)

And what good are piston rings without pistons...  The ring grooves came out slightly underszie and the rings woundn't fit.  I ended up grinding the rings to thickness on my surface grinder.  Hand lapping on sandpaper was taking way too long!  

I broke two rings grinding them until I figured out the technique required to grind something so small...  The gap needs to be pointed in the direction the wheel spins.  The ring itself needs to be "blocked in" using thin sheet metal.  Grinding it dry was possible but so much easier with flood coolant turned on.

Ring groove is 0.059, rings are 0.057"

John


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## michael-au (Feb 7, 2016)

Good job on the Pistons and cylinders 

Michael


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## jgedde (Feb 13, 2016)

I have taken a brief hiatus from making any more parts for the past few days...  The parts I want to make next require milling.

My other half has been listening to me curse my import mill/drill for some time.  While it does the job, I'm always dissapointed at not being able to hit the tolerances I really want due to various things.  Excessive backlash due to an undersize leadscrew on the X axis (adjustment nut tightened full up), 0.002 to 0.003 slop in the quill, lack of rigidity and more.

I've wanted a knee mill for some time but didn't want to spend the money.

As I was milling part of a snowplow mount for my ATV, the missus was watching.  I accidentally climb milled and the whole table moved to the other side of the backlash.  From across the room she noticed, asking "Is it supposed to do that?"  Of course I said no.

A little later I showed what a knee mill looked like and that there was one particular one I had my eye on but saying I didn't want to spend the dough.

Long story short, I ordered a PM-935TV from Quality Machine Tools.  If Bridgeport made a full featured knee mill I could fit in my shop, I'd buy USA made.  This one is Taiwanese.  We have a few Taiwanese BP clones at work mixed in with the real Bridgeports and they work just as well, so I said what the heck.

The new mill was in stock, and is shipping Monday.  Got the single phase option, the 3 axis graphical DRO, and worklight.  Left the power feeds out of the mix for now to keep $$$ down.

So, my focus is to disassemble the mill/drill, get it out of the basement into the garage.  When the new mill arrives, it will be disaasembled and brought down to the shop.

Then I'll start making parts again...

John


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 13, 2016)

Merry Christmas   Rof}Rof}

or Happy Valentine Thm:Thm:


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## jgedde (Feb 13, 2016)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Merry Christmas Rof}Rof}
> 
> or Happy Valentine Thm:Thm:


 
and Happy Birthday, and Happy Tax Refund, and Happy Work Bonus...

John


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## toolznthings (Feb 13, 2016)

Hi,
Looks like a nice mill.  Should be a happy camper with the new machine !

Nice build thread, too.

Brian


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## jgedde (Feb 17, 2016)

My new is arriving tomorrow.  I'm having it delivered at work since we have a loading dock and a forklift.  Plus, I live at the end of a one lane dead end.  A tractor trailer driver would NOT appreciate having to deliver to my home and have to back up the entire length of the road.

In any case, I'll get it put onto my trailer (already hitched up and ready to go).  Then, I'll disassemble 1,705 pounds of mill and get the pieces one by one down into my basement shop on Saturday.  

I have a method worked out that has served me well in the past with a 1200 pound lathe and getting my PM-45 mill out of the shop and into the garage.  It's for sale BTW...

I have an outside entrance to the basement.  I made a ramp and sled setup to carry heavy parts up and down the stairs powered by either a chain hoist for really heavy things or the winch on my ATV for smaller items.

If anybody lives here on Long Island, and has no plans for Saturday....  

Work Friday is gonna drag knowing there's a new mill awaiting me. 

John


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 18, 2016)

That's awesome.  Love getting new toys.


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## jgedde (Feb 20, 2016)

Well fellas, it's been an adventuresome four days getting the mill down into my shop... Right now I have a sore back and a sense of accomplishment.

I had the mill delivered to my job since we have a forklift and a loading dock. It arrived Thursday. We forklifted it onto my trailer and I brought it home.

My plan was to disassemble it and bring it down to the shop in pieces. The idea was to use my engine hoist to lift the heavy parts. This did not work out at all. The mill was much too tall for the hoist and the mill was facing the wrong way on the trailer to really have any useful access. In desperation, I went and rented the biggest excavator our local rental place had. I used a strap on its bucket to lift it off the trailer. I then discovered that if I took the table off the mill, I could use the excavator to drop the mill right at the bottom of the stairs into my shop! 

My neighbor and I slowly lowered the mill down the stairwell and onto two dollies. I worked the excavator and he kept the mill from spinning.

Friday I had to work so not much got done apart from mounting the DRO. Today, I brought the table, head and motor downstairs and got them back onto the mill. Removing and installing the motor on a variable speed mill is an adventure until you figure out the trick... That is if you can get the bottom bearing off the motor spindle.  It works very much like an ATV CVT transmission.

On and off today, with plenty of breaks, I got the table back on, cleaned off all the cosmoline, reinstalled the head and the X-axis DRO scale. This evening I trammed the head within 5 tenths at 8" radius: good enough for me! The mill runs well and is quiet and smooth. The belt makes a noise for about a minute after it sits for a while but I think this will quiet down after the belt breaks in.

Tomorrow I'll make new vice keys and get the vice mounted up and I'll be back to making Panther Pup parts.

John


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## 10K Pete (Feb 20, 2016)

Right freeking on! It's sure a beauty, now you need to get it 'dirty'!

Pete


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## Swifty (Feb 21, 2016)

A job well done, now choose a project to work on.

Paul.


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## michael-au (Feb 21, 2016)

Nice looking mill, good job getting it down stairs


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## woodenbird (Feb 22, 2016)

Just to let you know that I am in the audience watching your build. Thanks for sharing.
Glenn


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## jgedde (Mar 9, 2016)

OK fellas, I finally got back to the build last night. I started making the connecting rods. I'll let the photos below speak for how I approached it.

I've got the rotary table set up to do the rest of the machining...  Maybe this evening...

John


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## jgedde (Mar 19, 2016)

Here's the latest status so far...  Connecting rods, wrist pins, and big end bearings completed.

John


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## jgedde (Mar 19, 2016)

And everything made thus far...

John


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## Parksy (Mar 19, 2016)

Just awesome work! I'm not sure if you've mentioned it already, but what material did you use to make your con rods?


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## michael-au (Mar 20, 2016)

Nice work John


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