# Kiwi Mk2 Engine



## vcutajar

After trawling the forum for the last 2 weeks and learning new things from the postings, I have finally taken the plunge. I have decided to build my first IC engine. I also took a decision to use castings which is also a first for me. I bought the kit of the Kiwi Mk2 from Hemingway Kits (http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/The_Kiwi_Mk2.html). I would like to thank Mainer (Steve) for sending me photos of his water cooled Kiwi (mine is going to be an air cooled version).
The kit arrived by Fedex and it was nicely packed with each item individually bubble wrapped. I already knew from the sales receipt that the timing gears were missing but cheching through the items I noticed that the BA hex nuts were missing (not really bothered as I intend to go metric). Also missing were a piece of spring steel and most importantly the piston casting. I contacted Kirk at Hemingway who quickly replied that he would send the missing parts with the timing gears (when these become available in a couple of weeks).
As I know that everybody here loves to see the pictures I took some photos of the castings.


----------



## vcutajar

Some more photos

Front and back crankcase


----------



## vcutajar

Cylinder head, cylinder and crankshaft weights


----------



## vcutajar

Timing gear cover, conrod, carburettor and float chamber, contact breaker attachment


----------



## chuck foster

this should prove to be a most interesting build 8)

if memory serves me right this is an e.t. westbury design??? 

thanks for sharing and as you know we all love pictures. ;D

chuck


----------



## metalmad

Sounds like a great project 
Ill be watching
Pete


----------



## tel

As will I!


----------



## vcutajar

Ok so today I decided to give it a start.

I do not have any running projects at the moment and for the last three months I have been fitting a Shumatech DRO550 which has been stored for nearly a year to my X3 mill using linear magnetic encoders. As you can imagine I am a slow worker.

I thought I would start with something simple, namely the tappet guide which is a bronze casting. After checking the dimensions of the casting, I faced one side. As you can see I cheated a bit by scanning from the plans the tappet guide diagram, made it scale 1:1, glued it to the faced casting and used it as a template. Yes, I know, not very professional. I then drilled and tapped the edge holes 3mm and then drilled and reamed the middle holes (from where the tappets pass) 5mm.


----------



## vcutajar

And this is the casting faced drilled, tapped and reamed on one side.

This weekend I will work on the other side. I intend to fix the casting to a piece of aluminium using 3mm bolts. At first I was going to use the faceplate to continue working on the casting and then I realised that at some point I will need to take it off the faceplate for milling. So now the plan is to use a rotary table instead of the faceplate and do all the operations in one setup. At least that is the plan.


----------



## maverick

Nice little project you have there. I'll be watching with great interest.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I continued working on the tappet guide. First I marked the the tappet guide so that I could rough mill it before putting it on the rotary table. Rough milled it and then I attached it to a piece of flat aluminium using 3mm screws. Put it in the vice and then milled it some more.

Tommorrow final operation on the rotary table, or is it going to be a faceplate. Decisions, Decisions. I will decide tommorow. First I need a beer before going out with the family.


----------



## vcutajar

Today continued work on the tappet guide and the rotary table was used. Machined the circular section of the tappet guide to 14 mm diameter. Then milled down the height of the guide to the proper dimension. Took it off the rotary table and cleaned the side of the flange with a Dremel. Cleaned the whole part using 280 grit and then 400 grit sandpaper. 

Final operation was to drill both 3mm tapped holes with a 3mm drill. To locate the hole under the chuck I screwed the 3mm tap in the tapped hole, locked the tap in the chuck and then fixed the tappet guide to the rotary table. Removed the tap from the chuck and inserted a 3mm drill.


----------



## vcutajar

First part finished.

Maybe tommorrow I will polish it with a Dremel (at least the visible outside part). This week I do not think I will be doing anything else on the Kiwi as I have a day course (hate it) and then I am off to Munich (Germany) for some sim sessions (love it).


----------



## vcutajar

So here am I in Munich in the hotel room pouring over the Kiwi plans. Its too cold outside (at least for me) to go running around the city.

Having finished the tappet guide, my next item in the build is going to be the tappets, and I noticed a mistake (I was warned to watch out for these). Actually it's not a mistake but a difference between the diagram of the tappet on the 1960 magazine article and the diagram on the large plans. On the magazine, the bottom of the tappet, the cam follower (is this the correct terminology??) is drawn as semicircular (having the same radius as the tappet guide), whilst on the plans, the same part is rectangular. I suspect that on the article it was semicircular more for aesthetic than practical reasons. At the moment I am leaning more on doing the rectangular version for obvious reasons.


----------



## vcutajar

I was looking at the recess on the tappet where the pushrod fits and also the same recess on the rocker arm where the other side of the pushrod fits. They are both 3/32" and 1/8" deep but have a slight taper so that the pushrod does not bind at its maximum angularity.

I was thinking that instead of the taper I use a slightly wider recess like 3mm. Any ideas??


----------



## vcutajar

Finally back home where the temperature is more decent (18C). Whilst I was abroad I kept thinking about the above post (tapered holes for the pushrods) and finally came to the the conclusion that I need to try what happens if I use a slightly wider untapered hole (3mm ball nose mill). So tommorrow I intend to experiment on a scrap piece of steel and see what happens.

Also tommorrow I need to figure out, with the plans in front of me, the intended use of all the pieces of bar stock that came with the castings.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I drilled a 3mm hole in brass to the specified depth of 1/8" using a ball nose and tried the pushrod to see at what angle it touches the side of the hole. For sure the tappet will not be at this angle and I do not think the rocker will also need this angle. So unless I think of a better way I will use this method instead of the tapered hole.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I tried solving the jigsaw puzzle of the bar stock that came with the kit. I tried to match the pieces of raw material to parts of the engine. I was never good at jigsaw puzzles and did not match everything. At least the pieces of silver steel and bronze which are hard to source locally I managed to match.

I also sourced from my stock the pieces of BMS I will be using for the tappets and rocker arms. Did not do any machining today as the lathe was doing a funny noise which was due to a spindle belt soaked in oil. Could not change it today as it's a holiday.

Spent the rest of the day mostly looking at my youngest daughter playing Assasin's Creed online.


----------



## vcutajar

OK. Today I changed the belt for the lathe and this evening started work on the two tappets. Started with a 12mm round section BMS and faced it. I then centre drilled the face and drilled the tappet hole with a 3mm ball nose end mill. I then reduced the 12mm section to 5mm. During the final cuts all the time checking with the tappet guide. Brought it down to a slip fit with 280 and 400 grit sandpaper. I then parted off the piece. I did not part it off right through but hacksawed the last part.

Next operation will be on the mill with a dividing head to give the cam follower the rectangular section as per plans.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning I continued work on the tappets. The original plan was to put it in a dividing head on the mill and face the cam follower and give the rectangular shape in one setup. But that means I have to true up the dividing head on the mill table and I hate doing that. So, new plan. Put the milling vice on the table and faced both tappets. Then removed the vice and put the dividing head on the mill table and gave the tappet heads their rectangular shape without needing to true up neither the vice or dividing head.


----------



## vcutajar

I then cleaned up the tappets and hand fitted the tappets in the tappet guide.


----------



## vcutajar

This evening decided to start work on the rocker arms. Using a lenght of 10mm x 10mm BMS to cater for both rocker arms. Started milling the bar to dimension. Finished three sides only. Tommorrow will continue on the fourth side and hacksaw it in the middle.


----------



## vcutajar

I see now that I am an advanced member. Must be something to do with the number of posts. I also see that somebody gave me a karma point. For what I don't know. Whoever it was thanks.

Today I continued milling the fourth side. I then marked the lenghts of the rockers and hacksawed the excess. Filled the parts a little closer to the line and then milled off the sides. Ended with two pieces of BMS for the rockers ready for further machining.


----------



## vcutajar

Shucks guys, another two karmas. Thanks to the karma givers but I haven't done anything special up till now. Guess I am doing something right.

This evening continued on the rocker arms. First I drilled the oil hole for the shaft by using a 1.6mm centre drill. That means I drilled the holes and coutersunk them in one operation. Next I drilled the 3mm holes for the pushrods using a 3mm ball nosed mill. As these holes are off the centreline it will help me keep track of which is the front and back of the rocker arm.

Spent nearly 2 hours on these 4 holes. Good thing I am not on a production line!


----------



## vcutajar

This morning continued work on the rocker arms. At first I was thinking of drilling the 6mm hole for the shaft that goes through the rockers but then I thought that when clamping the rockers for further work I might bend or squash the hole. So no holes for now and decidedm to start reducing the side faces as per plans. The plans also show the cuts to end with a radius but no radius dimensions a given. Using a radius gauge I estimated that 1.5mm radius should be close enough. I could have opted to do with without a radius but decided that as this part was visible, a radius cut would be nicer.

At first I thought I would use the faceplate and use a profile tool that I have but when I checked the tool it had a diameter of 6mm. Too large. Faceplate method went out of the window. My other option was the rotary table and use a 3mm ball nose mill. Out came the rotary table and it was located on the table. New problem. How am I going to clamp that small piece of steel to the rotary table. After a bit of head scratching I remembered I have a small 25mm pin vice. Would this work? There only one way of knowing and that is by trying it out.

Marked the centre of where the hole should be and clamped it in the pin vice. Put the vice on the table, located the crosshair (a bit fiddly) and clamped the vice on the rotary table. Reset the DRO x and y to zero so that I do not need to locate the rotary table again and with a scriber in the collet marked the sides of the cuts by displacing the y axis the required amount.


----------



## vcutajar

Started the outer cut and brought it down to required depth using light cuts (0.1mm). The plan was that then I would do the inner cut and then clean up the middle with an end mill. But as usual this plan changed. When I finished the outer cut I started going inwards slowly in 0.1mm increments using the same 3mm ball nose cutter. Don't ask because I can't remember how many times I turned that hand wheel. Eventually I finished. Three sides still to go. Maybe this evening I will do the opposite side. The cut has to be twice as deep as the centreline is offset.


----------



## vcutajar

This evening I did the other side and now I can't feel my arm. Maybe tommorrow I will start on the other rocker arm but I doubt that I will do both sides.


----------



## vcutajar

Today finished profiling the other rocker arm. Good thing its not a V12! Now I think its safe to drill the 6mm hole for the shaft before I continue machining the top and bottom of the arms.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I could not resist the urge so, I drilled and reamed the 6mm hole for the rocker arm shaft. Now to figure out how to continue profiling the top and bottom of the rocker arms.


----------



## ShedBoy

Nice work, the Kiwi is a classic and yours is shaping up the same. Great thread.

Brock


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Brock.

Wish me luck as this is my first ever model i.c. engine and I am keeping my fingers crossed all the time. I am trying to keep this thread similar to a diary. I jot down whatever I do or think of doing on this model.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning I worked on the front part of the rocker arms. That part which pushes the valves down. Does it have a technical name? Well, it calls for a radius. So I marked the edge of the radius, put both rocker arms in the vice and milled off the excess material keeping just shy off the mark. Removed the vice, installed the rotary table and using my trusty 25mm vice located the origin of the radius under the spindle. Then using a 3mm endmill I cut the radius to the desired dimension (4.76mm). Easier that I thought it would be. Maybe this evening I'll continue working on the front part of the rockers.


----------



## Mainer

You're doing well.

When I made Kiwi, I ended up making 7 rocker arms before I got two good ones. (The extra five were "learning experiences." ;D  )


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Mainer

Well my two rocker arms are not finished yet. Things can still go horibly wrong. I am using your drawing you sent me of the rocker arms and also the photos you sent.


----------



## vcutajar

This evening continued working on the front part of the rocker arms. The angled cuts were just eyeballed. Tomorrow will start work on the back part of the rockers.


----------



## vcutajar

Started off today by drilling a 3mm hole with a slot drill. I then milled the excess material. I then cleaned it up by milling.


----------



## vcutajar

And the first photo is the result of the previous operation.

I then decided to mill off the angle on the top part of the rockers. Marked it off and put them in the vice then realised that if I take the cut it would be difficult to do the next operation. So instead I reduced the front and back thickness to the required dimension and most probably this evening I will re-mark it and take the angled cut.


----------



## John S

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> This morning I worked on the front part of the rocker arms. That part which pushes the valves down. Does it have a technical name?



Don't know how accurate the description is but I have heard of heel and toe.

John S.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks John

Heel or Toe. If you think about it, it makes sense. Good, learned something new today.


----------



## vcutajar

This evening re-marked the angle at the top of the rockers and milled it.

Tommorrow it's going to be an armstrong session (filling, sanding and polishing) and not looking forward to it, but if I don't do it immediately after I finish a part, then it never gets done.


----------



## vcutajar

Filed the back and bottom contour and sanded the arms. Removed most machining marks. Some still evident in the main body recess. Just could not remove them. Polished with a dremel to a shiny finish. At one time, rocker arm literally flew from my hand whilst polishing. I am not going to repeat what was said at that time. Took me 30 minutes to find it.

8 days to do two rocker arms.


----------



## John S

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> 8 days to do two rocker arms.



Not thought about doing a twelve cylinder 4 valve then ? ? ;D

John S.

P.S. Nice work though.


----------



## vcutajar

Nice one John. Its more probable that I buy it then make it. ;D


----------



## vcutajar

Today I started work on the rocker arm bushes. E.T. Westbury specifies that these should be made from gunmetal (yellow brass) and not from brass. Now I have never used gunmetal so I do not know how it looks. I have found a piece of hexagonal bar (in the kit) suitable for the bushes but I suspect its brass and not gunmetal. Well, if this engine ever runs, I would be running for short periods so I guess if the bushes are made of brass, it would not make a lot of difference.

I faced of the hexagonal stock and it felt like brass. I then turned it down to 6mm diameter. According to the plans it should be the same thickness as the rocker arm, but I made it a tad longer as I suspect that the rocker arm might bind with the rocker arm pillar. I can always shorten it later on.  I parted the part off and faced it.

Hopefully tomorrow, if I manage to find the 3mm reamer, I will drill and ream the bushes. It has to be drilled 1/64" off centre.

Now to continue babysitting the cats and make myself something to eat as I am alone at home (wife and kids went for a 3 day holiday in Rome).


----------



## vcutajar

After a long search this morning for the 3mm reamer I still could not find it. It was made by Master and I love their tooling. Unfortunately the shop that imported them from Italy does not get them anymore because since they have been taken over by Scandvik they could not handle the relatively small orders (very small market locally). So I got myself a Dormier reamer. Hope its OK. We'll find out later on today.


----------



## vcutajar

The Dormier reamer worked out fine. Drilled the hole 1/64" off the centre and reamed it. Trial fit in the rocker arms and all seems OK. Most probably will do the 3mm studs for the bushes.


----------



## vcutajar

Did the 3mm studs. Just took 3mm bar stock and cut it to lenght. There where no dimensions on the plans but it was easy to figure them out. Threaded both ends and that's all. The second photo shows my method of keeping the die straight whilst threading. I just use an old collet chuck in the tailstock.

I was thinking I would do the rocker arm pillar next but I would not be able to complete it before the cylinder head. I do not like to start parts that I cannot completly finish so am trying to see what else I can do. I was hoping that by this time I would have received the timing gears, but they still have not arrived. Last week I sent an email to Kirk at Hemingways to check about these gears but have not received any response. Usually he is quick in answering back. I suspect that Hemingways may be closed due to the festivities.

I guess I am stuck.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I found something else I could do on the engine. I started work on the crankcase breather sytem. I started off with a 12 mm brass bar stock and turned it down to 10.5mm. I then knurled the machined part and then continued turning down part of the knurl to 6mm. I threaded it 6mm Fine with a die. I then made a quick 6mm fine nut out of a piece of brass strip. I cut a shallow groove at the top of the thread (between thread and knurl) and inserted the thin nut I just made to clean up the thread. I left it there and reduced the thread lenght to dimension using the nut to clean the edge of the thread.

And that's when the lathe motor started giving my problems (see other thread). This evening managed to fix the motor and finished the cap of the crankcase breather. I will not part it off for now just in case it needs further machining. Next I will work on the breather body.


----------



## vcutajar

Started work on the breather assembly body. Took a piece of 10mm brass and faced it off (lathe motor still working - keeping my fingers crossed). Took some measurements for the breather holes. Put in dividing head and drill six 1.5mm holes.


----------



## vcutajar

Happy new year to all.

Yesterday and this morning I continued work on the breather.

I cut down the breather body to size and reduced the side that goes into the crankcase to 6mm and then threaded it with a 6mm fine die. I then drilled and reamed the through hole 4mm. Reversed it in the chuck and with a 5mm slot drill increased the bored to the desired depth. Then tapped the first part of the 5mm hole 6mm fine. Yes, I should have drilled it 5.2 mm but brass is a bit forgiving. After tapping I passed again the 4mm reamer and then the 5mm slot drill to clean up the body of any burrs that might have been produced with the tap. Tested the cap and it fits nicely.

I then parted the cap off as it was still attached to the bar stock and cleaned it up.

Also yesterday I received an email from Kirk @ Hemingways that the gears should be available 1st week of January. Looking forward to receive them so I can check the bore and see if I can increase it slightly to a metric bore and then get started with the main castings.


----------



## vcutajar

And here it is nearly finished.

I now need to put a 5mm tufnol disc inside. I ordered a small sheet of 1mm tufnol from ebay (postage cost more than the tufnol  but what can I do if I can't find it locally). Now I need to machine a 5mm punch and die and see how that works.


----------



## metalmad

Looking good there Mate
Hope you made a few extra rockers buddy, You can make a Wallaby next :big:
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Pete

I am also following your Wallaby build with interest.


----------



## vcutajar

Haven't done anything in particular except machine the 5mm punch and die. Still waiting for the teflon sheet to arrive from the UK.

Have been looking again at the two crankcase castings and plans and been converting dimensions to metric. I am already getting the jitters just thinking of fouling up the castings.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I received the 1mm teflon sheet and immediately went to the garage to try out the punch and die I made. I put the die in the headstock chuck and the punch in the tailstock. It works although the punched out teflon was slightly wider than 5mm. Fixed that by sanding it. The breather assembly is complete and it works.

In the photo is the teflon sheet, the breather parts and the punch and die. Not visible in the photo is a 3mm through hole in the die so that I can push out the punched out teflon.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning I went shopping for some metric ball bearings. The ones I got in the kit were 3/8 x 7/8 x 7/32. The ones I got were 10 x 19 x 5 (61800). I wanted open bearings (without shields) but could not find them, so I got them with rubber shields and removed the rubber. I hope I did not compromise them by doing that.

In the photo the ones on the left are the original bearings and the ones on the right are the ones I bought.


----------



## vcutajar

This evening I plucked some courage to start work on the front crankcase casting. I put it in the 4 jaw chuck and centered it as best I could. It's so difficult with nothing really running true. I trimmed the chucking piece of the casting and then replaced the 4 jaw chuck with a collet holder. Clamped the casting (the part that had been cleaned up) in a collet. Turned the front face and bearing housing face to dimension. Hopefully tomorrow I will turn the front face spigot.

I am not really enjoying working on this casting because I can't exactly take any real measurements. Even the crankcase barrel is offcenter. I have the feeling that I am doing something not right all the time. I will persevere but I suspect that this will be the first and last time I will work on a casting model.


----------



## ShedBoy

Looking good, castings give me the same feeling but I like casting my own so I will go there again. If I paid for some it would be a different story. Enjoying this build.
Brock


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Brock for the encouragement.


----------



## vcutajar

Continued work on the front crankcase housing. Turned the spigot and with the crackcase barrel being casted off centre it came out not uniform. Drilled and bored the crankshaft hole 12.7mm and then machined the bearing housing for a push fit. Then parted off the casting and cleaned it with the mill.

It's not pretty but hopefully functional.


----------



## ShedBoy

I thought you would keep the chucking spiggot until the back crankcase half was bored to keep it concentric? Is a mandrel used to do this?

Brock


----------



## vcutajar

Now that's an idea I did not think about. Oh well, too late, the chucking piece is gone now. Actually, that's what Westbury does in his article. He removes the chucking piece and starts work on the other part of the crankcase and that's where I get lost because I can't understand how he gets both crankshaft holes aligned. Maybe I need to read between the lines.

So when I start work on the other half that's where I will deviate from the magazine article. I have a couple of ideas ..... Let's see when I get there. Wish me luck.


----------



## Mainer

I don't remember how I did it. I do remember I flattened off the back face by rubbing the casting over a piece of aluminum oxide paper lying on my surface plate. It then got chucked in the 4-jaw, and I "centered" (if you can call it that) the casting by getting the bosses for the bolts that hold the crankcase together to be as much as possible on the same pitch circle when I rotated the casting, leaving the center of the casting to take care of itself (though I must have checked it, a least a little). Then I must have turned the chucking piece...and from there on it gets foggy.... ;D I have no recollection of how I got the other half of the crankcase to line up. I may have turned the mating flange on the 2nd half of the casting so the two would be aligned, then drilled the bolt holes in one half and spotted the locations of the holes in the 2nd half. Or something....

Personally, I enjoyed the challenge of finding the parts inside the castings. The thing I didn't like was the ever-present fear of screwing it up and having to buy another casting for a not-insignificant amount of money.
Several times I would do a setup, then walk away for a while before I came back and re-checked the setup for errors before cutting anything.


----------



## vcutajar

> The thing I didn't like was the ever-present fear of screwing it up and having to buy another casting for a not-insignificant amount of money.



Mainer, I know the feeling and by the way those photos you had sent me are a godsend. I very often look at them to see how a part looks. There is not much info or images of the Kiwi on the internet

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

This morning I went to the garage and as the chuck was already off the spindle I decided to check the alignment of the tailstock to the headstock. So, out came the parallel test bar. Took readings and everything was OK. It must be the 3 jaw chuck that is the problem because if I ream a 10mm hole it always ends up 10.2mm. Oh well have to work around it.

Started work on the crankshaft bush for the front crankcase. Used a piece of bronze from the kit. Turned it 12.7mm and gave it a 1.6mm lip of 15.8mm diameter. Parted it off and cleaned it up. Put back in the chuck and drilled 9.8mm. Now I am not going to ream it because it would end up oversize so the solution was to bore it. only problem was that I do not have such a small boring bar. After rumaging trough the tools I found an small imperial internal threading tool which I do not use, ground it out further to make it even smaller and now I had a small boring tool. Worked like a charm. The hole was bored 10.05 mm.


----------



## vcutajar

I then pushed the bush in the cranckcase body and tried it with a 10mm silver steel rod. Good fit. I haven't pressed the ball bearing in yet as I still have some work to do and I do not want to contaminate it with aluminium dust, but seems to work also with the bush.

Last photo is my improvised boring bar.


----------



## vcutajar

Did not do much today. Not that I usually do a lot. Morning was spent at the annual get-together at the radio amateurs club.

This evening drilled and tapped (5mm) the hole for the oil drain plug and inserted the bearing. Trial fit with a 10mm silver steel rod was ok. Then I started work on the timing cover. Machined on the lathe the outside face and reversed it to machine the other side, but the tool bit was getting too close to the chuck jaws, so I stopped for today.

Next time I have to figure out how to continue work on the timing cover.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning spent most of the time figuring out how to continue work on the timing cover. At first I was thinking of putting a spacer under the cover in the chuck to take it out some more but at the end discarded this idea as I thought it would would be dangerous if the part flew out of the chuck.

So at the end I ended up using the same method I used for the tappet guides; i.e. fixing the cover to another piece of aluminium and using the rotary table. I figured out that in just one setting I could first reduce the diameter of the cover, then reduce the thickness of the cover and at the end machine the edge recess.

I only managed to get it fixed to aluminium using two 4mm brass screws. Will continue next time.


----------



## vcutajar

Continued work on the timing cover. Centred it in the rotary table and marked out the desired diameter. Then started milling out the edge with an 8mm endmill. After finishing the diameter I wrote down the DRO X axis reading (2nd photo) which will come in handy when machining the edge recess. I then milled the part to the required thickness.

Next time I will work on the edge recess. Before switching off the DRO I brought back the X axis to zero (Y axis already at zero) and reset the Z axis to zero.

Tomorrow back to work (real work).


----------



## vcutajar

Good news. The missing parts from the kit, namely, the timing gears, piston casting and a piece of spring steel arrived today. Had a look at the timing gears and I see that they still need further machining which should not be a problem. The good thing was the the bore was small so I can enlarge it as much as I want to go metric. Stored them away in the box with the rest of the parts. Hopefully I will come to the stage where I can work on them.

Continued work on the timing cover and machined the recess. I made the recess a little deeper (smaller diameter) as with the original dimensions I was afraid that the wall of the matching recess on the crank case was going to be too thin. Also I noticed that the depths of both recesses (according to plans) were not the same. If I leave them like that the cover would only be supported on the thin wall of the crankcase. Most probably I'll make them both the same size for better support.

Tommorrow I'll plan to finish work on the cover by replacing the 4mm threaded holes with 4mm clearance holes and machine for countersunk screws.


----------



## willburrrr2003

Looks like your having fun with this project!  I have enjoyed reading your progress up to this point and look forward to seeing more and the finished Engine :bow:

Regards,

  Will R.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Will.



> and the finished Engine



That is still debatable. I have made models before (not engines) but always from bar stock. This is my first engine and also my first casting kit. It is still a learning experience for me and hopefully if I manage to get past the crankcase (which I feel is the most difficult part in this kit) the rest is all downhill.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Today finished work on the timing cover by drilling the 4mm holes and coutersinking. I first screwed in the tap in the threaded hole, chucked the tap and brought down the chuck until the cover just touched the table. Clamped the cover, replaced the tap with a 4mm drill and drilled the hole. Then I countersunk the hole with a 8.3mm countersink tool.

Timing cover finished for now.

Time to vacuum and clean the mill table and rotary table.


----------



## vcutajar

The next operations on the rear part of the crankcase is where I am going to deviate from the instructions in the article. This is either going to make or break the project. Wish me luck.

I skimmed the side where the timing cover sits. And then I stopped to meditate on the next steps. Need to sleep on it before I continue.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning, after sleeping on it, it was decided to continue work on the rear part of the crankcase (sorry no pictures today as forgot the camera in the garage).

I first put both halves of the crankcase together in my bench vise (with soft jaws). I lined up the outside of both halves as much as I could by eye. Used a couple of toolmaker clamps to hold it together and took it out of the benchvise to have a better look at the line up. I had to do it a couple of times before I was satisfied.

I then took a piece of 10mm silver steel and turned one end 45 deg to make a temporary punch. Put the punch through the front half which was a nice fit, and marked the rear side on the bearing housing. The the plan was to put it on the rotary table for facing and creating the recess for the front half spigot, but could not find a suitable way of clamping it properly. So after much fussing about it was time to try the 4 jaw chuck on the lathe.

Unfortunately, the piece of the casting I wanted to chuck has a slight taper, so pieces of marine three-ply wood were inserted between the jaws and casting so that it could grip the casting better and also avoid scoring the casting with the jaws. Eventually the casting was lined up with the punch mark I had done earlier and the face was trimmed off to dimension. Then the recess was machined and a trial fit was attempted with success. Nice fit without any slop. Hopefully tommorrow I will face off the bearing housing.


----------



## vcutajar

Here are the photos of yesterdays work:

Photo 1: Temporary Punch
Photo 2: Crankcase clamped in bench vise and toolmaker clamps
Photo 3: Crankcase with toolmaker clamps and temporary punch inserted (ready to be whacked with a hammer )
Photo 4: Casting in 4 jaw chuck with marine ply.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I faced off the bearing housing in the casting but left it 1mm higher for further machining when machining the bearing hole. Took it out of the chuck and made a trial fit with the mating casting. Not bad.

Next operation was supposed to drill and tap for the 6 bolts which will hold the crankcase together but am having second thoughts. On the plan it specifies 4BA which I was going to replace with 4mm ( which I already have ) but I suspect that would be cutting it too tight for the bosses (especially one of them). So I was thinking of using 3mm bolts instead. What do you think? Which is the best replacement for 4BA, 4mm or 3mm? As it is, I don't have all the 3mm bolts available and I am working this weekend so I doubt there will be any progress in that area which will give me time to ponder this dilemma.

I might instead cut the recess for the timing cover and get that out of the way.


----------



## vcutajar

Well the weekend has nearly passed and only today had time to work on the Kiwi. I only managed to cut the recess for the timing cover and mill the bottom to the correct depth. I did not have time to drill and tap for the two 4mm countersunk screws of the timing cover. I spent a lot of time trying to line up the casting on the rotary table trying various methods but never being happy with the end result. Finally, after nearly giving up, I had one of those moments.

I am a bit hesitant (ashamed really) in describing it here, but it did work, so here goes. I chucked the timing cover in the 3 jaw chuck and using a pointed tool in the tailstock, lightly marked the center. I put the cover on the casting, centering it by eye, and taped it up with masking tape. Put the casting (with taped up cover) on the rotary table and centered it using the center mark I had on the cover. Clamped it tight, removed the tape and the cover and machined it. I must have been lucky because it worked well.

I think I have also decided that I am going to use 4mm bolts with allen heads for the crankcase bolts.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I drilled and tapped the two holes for fixing the timing cover to the crankcase. I usually insert the tap in the chuck and start the first few threads by turning the chuck by hand and then continue with the tap wrench.

Timing cover is now attached to the casting. I also faced off the bosses on the front crankcase casting in preparation to drilling.


----------



## vcutajar

Drilled the front crankcase casting for the six 4mm bolts. Attached both parts of the crankcase castings and secured it with a clamp and using a transfer punch marked where one hole needs to be drilled and tapped 4mm.

Now, I do not have a transfer punch set, so what I did, I ground the back of a 4mm drill and used that with a plastic hammer to mark the casting.

Once I drilled and tapped the first hole, I mated the castings together again, this time using a 4mm bolt to hold them together, and using the same homemade transfer punch, I marked where the other holes need to be drilled. Two holes drilled and tapped and four to go.


----------



## vcutajar

Finished the other four holes and the crankcase can be securely bolted together.


----------



## Mainer

Allen head screws? Sigh....They will do, but I think it would look better if you made (or bought) some hex-head bolts. I sent you the picture of the ones I made, didn't I? It's your engine, however, and if you are satisfied with the Allen heads, more power to you.


----------



## danstir

I am following your build with interest, thanks for sharing.


----------



## vcutajar

Steve

Thanks for your observation. I was thinking of using studs and nuts later on. I used those bolts for now because they are easier to use.

Vince

p.s. I thought somebody would comment on those bolts


----------



## vcutajar

This evening was spent thinking how to do the hole in the rear crankcase casting keeping it lined up with the hole in the front crankcase casting scratch.gif. Eventually I came up with an idea. :noidea:

I located the aluminium I used to machine the timing cover and bolted it to the rear casting with the timing cover in place. I bolted on the front casting and did a trial setup on the rotary table to see if I have enough headroom under the mill chuck. Well there is enough headroom but I did not like the setup. I need to simplify it by removing the 1-2-3 blocks. I think I know how to do that.

The idea is to do the hole and mill the bearing housing in the same setup.


----------



## Mainer

I expect a lot of us have used Allen head screws to hold things together at one time or another.

That's the joy of working with castings. Often, 90% of the work is figuring out how to do the setup. ???

It looks like you are doing a great job with the engine.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Steve for the encouragement. Today is a decisive day for me. It's going to be the day were the cranckcase casting is either scrapped or not. I need to get those two holes aligned. I have already simplified yesterday's setup. Just need the courage to go ahead with the machining. Wish me luck.


----------



## Mainer

Luck!

I think it's often a good idea to take a break between setup and machining, as you have. I've sometimes found that a setup that looked good the night before doesn't look so good when I go back and re-evaluate it later.


----------



## vcutajar

That's what I am doing at the moment. Siesta time. I will continue this evening.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning I simplified the setup on the rotary table by removing the 1-2-3 blocks. I put them there yesterday for two particular reasons. The first one was that the screws I was using where not flush to the aluminium and secondly because that I thought that if the drill passed through it would hit the rotary table. Well both problems were solved. Bought new screws which fitted better the counterbore so the heads were flush and also realised that even if the drill went through it, it would still be in the centre of the rotary table hole.

I usually setup the rotary table using a MT2 taper tool (it is also used to hold things on the rotary table) that I made some time ago (first photo). I never bothered to check how accurate this method was, but out of curiosity I checked it with a dial and it was spot-on. I put the crankcase (with the aluminium plate) on the rotary table, and using the previously used homemade punch in a 10mm collet, I centered the crankcase and clamped it to the rotary table. I took the quill down into the crankcase and spotted the bottom part of the crankcase (where the hole needs to be drilled). Unbolted the front part off the crankcase and took it off and checked again that I am still lined up with the mark I just made.

Then I had a break. Snooze time.


----------



## vcutajar

Crunch time

This evening continued work on the casting. I am happy to say that everything went to plan. Thm:

Started off by centre drilling, drilling 6mm, 8mm and 9.8mm and then reaming 10mm. I did not use the drill chuck for these operations but used collets. Then I used 12mm, 15mm and 18mm slot drills to widen part of the hole for the bearing housing. Continued milling the bearing housing using an 8mm carbide endmill and the rotary table to get 18.995mm diameter for the ballrace. It was a bit of a pain retracting the endmill and checking diameter but it was worth it.

Now for the moment of truth. Took it off the rotary table, inserted the bearing, assembled the cranckcase and checked if a 10mm silver steel bar would pass from one side to the other. It passed and it turns. th_wav

What a relief. I think I have passed what in my opinion was the biggest hurdle in this build. Now to go back to Westbury's instructions.


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday I went shopping for a pair of V-Blocks with clamps from a local guy. It's not a shop but a garage so i never know what's available. Well I was in luck he had what I needed and in two sizes. I got the large size and also bought a centre drill set (what I had was on its last legs) and an ER32 collet all for the princely sum of 70 Euros. Went to my shop and tried a trial setup for the next operation using the V-blocks on my granite surface plate.

Today, after work, I had another look at the setup and it looked sound and did some mesurements and markings. The next operation is to mill the cylinder platform. It has to be parallel to the crankshaft and 1.5" (38.1mm) above the crankshaft centreline. Using the 10mm silver steel rod going through the crankcase supported on the V-blocks I marked the 38.1mm line. Put everything on the mill table and clamped everything (v-blocks and crankcase).

I will do the milling tomorrow. This will at least give me a flat surface to continue work on the crankcase.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I milled the cylinder platform, but instead of 38.1mm above crankshaft centerline I did it 39.1mm above the centerline. Yesterday, I was re-reading Westbury's article and at one point he says:

_"The distance of the cylinder platform from the crankshaft centre influences the compression ratio, in conjunction with the dimensions of other components. Some constructors may wish to produce an engine to run under load at relatively low speed-not more than 2,000 to 3,000 r.p.m., for instance-and if so, the compression ratio may be reduced, either by leaving more metal on the platform surface, or by fitting packings under the cylinder platform, which is more adautable but less positive.
Low compression is recommended if the engine is to be used for driving a heavy boat such as a tug or cargo liner; the beginner may find it easier to deal with, as it promotes docility and easy starting, and all adjustments are less critical than when the compression is high."_

Problem is that he does not say how much more metal to leave, so I left 1mm more. I can always bring it down to 38.1mm at a later stage.

After that operation was finished, I inverted the crankcase and making sure it was parallel to the table, I milled the engine bearers (supports).


----------



## vcutajar

Just for fun I put the unmachined cylinder casting and cylinder head casting on top of the crankcase just to have an idea of how it looks.


----------



## vcutajar

I haven't been idle these last couple of days. I was making the engine supports so that it can stand on its own feet. I used a piece of aluminium flat bar that I had and milled it to size.

Yesterday I was looking at the two engine supports and was thinking that they look bland. I need to spruce them up a bit. Various ideas came to mind but the one which I sort of liked was to engrave the name of the engine on each support. Just one problem, actually BIG problem. I don't have CNC.

So I kept thinking about it and came up with a plan. I still do not know if it's going to work. Well if I do not like the end result I can face it off.

I went on the computer and wrote the name of the engine in a Word textbox roughly the size of the support. I used Arial as a font and played around with a font size till I got what I needed. I also made sure that all the letters used staight lines. Printed them, cut them and glued them to the aluminium (second photo).

Today, after work, went to do some experimenting with a piece of scrap aluminium. I used a 3mm ball nose mill and the groove on the left in the third photo is 0.5mm deep (for the large font size) and the one on the right is 0.25m deep for the smaller font size.

I did the straight vertical lines on one of them (forth photo). I had to take into account the thickness of the paper and glue. So for the large font I went to a depth of 0.6mm and for the other one 0.35mm. Tomorrow I hope to finish the grooving. The plan is to paint the grooves ( I was thinking red ) and then mill the face. At least that's the plan. We'll see if it works out.


----------



## vcutajar

Continued milling the supports with the 3mm ball nose and spent all morning doing both. Removed the paper from the supports and painted the grooves red. I'll give it 24 hours to dry and tomorrow I'll face it off and see what's the end result.


----------



## vcutajar

Faced off both supports and this is the result. Not perfect but passable. I think I can live with it for now. Would I do it again? Don't think so.


----------



## vcutajar

Finished the two supports and fitted to the crankcase. Now it can stand on its two feet.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I spotted the holes for the crankcase bearing. I then inverted the crankcase and skimmed the bottom of the supports so that they will be parallel with the cylinder platform (photo 1). I then put the crankcase on the granite surface plate and with the help of a 10mm silver steel rod I marked the position of the camshaft hole (photos 2, 3 and 4). I also marked the centreline on the cylinder platform.


----------



## vcutajar

Drilled and reamed some holes in the rear crankcase casting. First dismantled the crankcase and clamped the rear crankcase casting to the mill table. First hole I needed to do was for the camshaft. Centre drilled, drilled and reamed the 8mm hole in the timing cover (photo 1). I then removed the timing cover and at the same setting, centre drilled drilled and reamed another 8mm hole in the crankcase (photo 2). I then drilled and reamed two 5mm vent holes in the casting (photo 3).

Put the casting on the surface plate and marked the spot for the tappet guide hole (photo 4).


----------



## vcutajar

I then located the 10mm crankshaft hole I had in the timing cover and opened it up to 11mm using an 11mm slot drill.


----------



## vcutajar

I have been working on the camshaft bushes. I used a piece of bronze that came with the kit and turned both bushes. I then drilled and reamed a 5mm hole in each bush and then pressed both bushes in their respective places. The long bush in the timing cover and the short one in the crankcase. I don't have a press so used the mill to press the bushes.


----------



## vcutajar

And both bushes pressed in place. I fitted the timing cover to the crankcase to check if a piece of 5mm silver steel passes through both bushes. No problems.


----------



## vcutajar

I made the shaft which holds the cams and gear as per plan except I used a 6mm rod and turned the ends 5mm (photo 1). Well, it has to be remade . The central 6mm part is about 1.2mm short and the 5mm end which will hold the ignition cam is about 2 or 3mm short. Could it be a mistake in the dimensions? I'm not really sure and I did not bother to investigate. Good thing I noticed it now.

Instead of remaking the shaft I made the hole which takes the tappet guide. Hand fitted the tappet guide to be a tight fit and drilled and tapped the 3mm holes which hold the tappet guide to the cylinder platform.

Tomorrow I'm off to Munich but whilst there I will study George's tutorial on making crankshafts. Most probably that will be my next item. I will also need to figure out how to make a 2mm keyway in a 6mm hole ???. Any suggestions? scratch.gif


----------



## vcutajar

Finally back home from freezing Munich. Whilst there, I decided that the next part to be made (actually attempted) will be the crankshaft. I had a good look at George's tutorial about making crankshafts and got a couple ideas from the tutorial (http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5673.0). I will be making the first attempt from flat barstock that came with the kit. If that fails, then I will try and fabricate it. Both methods are described in Westbury's article.

First order of the day is to make the tool to turn the crankshaft. It has to have a reach of at least 1.25". I have an HSS parting tool that I have never used (see photos) and was wondering if it's a suitable candidate to transform into a bifurcated tool. The tip of the parting tool is 5mm wide and the lenght of the crankpin is 12.7mm. What do you think? ???


----------



## vcutajar

Started attempt No.1 on the crankshaft. Used the flat bar which came with the kit and scribed some lines on it. The lines are not very visible in the photo. Also started grinding the crankshaft turning tool from the parting tool.


----------



## Mainer

I think I actually did make the Kiwi crank from the solid. The next crank I did for another engine -- still in progress -- was built up using Loctite and pins in the joints. All in all, I think a built-up crank is easier, but I guess one ought to make a solid crank at least once just for the experience.


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Steve

Hope you are well.

I am doing the first attempt of the crankshaft from solid because I have the material. If this does not work out then it will be fabricated.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Continued grinding the parting tool and finally finished it. Did some test cuts with it and had to set it below centreline to avoid chatter and to give a decent cut. Not really happy with it but I guess it will have to do for now.


----------



## vcutajar

Centre-drilled the sides of the bar for the live and dead centres then chain drilled the inside of the webs. Used a hacksaw and coping saw to remove the material. Most probably later on I will mill the inside of the webs to clean it up.


----------



## metalmad

HI Vince
just take it slow mate and u will have a winner for sure 
Pete


----------



## steamer

Hey Vince,

Just take your time...Pete's comments apply!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Pete and Dave

I didn't realise I was that fast. Actually I had the impression that I was slow. I need to heed what an old (now retired) work collegue used to say AUSE.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Cleaned up the insides of the webs on the milling machine. Set it up in the lathe between centres. Used a live centre in the tailstock and a dead centre in the headstock spindle. Bolted an 8mm threaded bar in the chuck backplate and fixed the part to be machined between centres with a nylon tie-wrap. Started machining the crankpin but stopped at 10.1mm. Next time I will continue machining the crankpin to 9.95mm.


----------



## vcutajar

Finished the crankpin to dimension. Started work on one of the main journals. Chain drilled and hacksawed the excess material. Inserted a brass packing piece inside the webs and just to make sure it does not fly off I secured it with a nylon tie-wrap. Drilled and tapped 6mm a hole on the side and screwed in a 6mm bolt. Put the piece between centres and secured the bolt with nylon tie-wrap (third photo). Turned down to 10mm and then the end was turned down to 8mm. To turn the 8mm section I had to change the live centre to a half dead centre as the tool was fouling with the live centre.

One side finished but the sides of the web turned out a bit rough. Most probably when doing the other side I will mill the sides of the web first before putting it between centres.


----------



## vcutajar

Chain drilled and hacksawed the other side for the other journal (photo 1). This time milled the outside of the webs (photo 2). Put it in the lathe but instead of between centres, I held the part in a collet and the other side with a live centre (photo 3). Same as the other side I had to change the live centre to a half dead centre for the final 8mm cut. And this is how it looks after lathe work was finished (photo 4).


----------



## vcutajar

Crankshaft is not finished yet. I threaded the ends of the shaft 8mm fine (1mm pitch) with a die. The plans do not specify the lenght of the threads so I made them short and will increase as required at a later stage. The top and bottom of the webs need to be rounded off but I intend to do that when the bronze counterweights are in place. Also I need to drill the oil passageways. I will be drilling them 2.5mm and then tapping 3mm. Yesterday I went shopping for a long series 2.5mm drill which I could not find so I settled for an extra long version. Hope I do not break it in the hole.


----------



## Blogwitch

Vince,

That is indeed a very nice crank you have made there, perfectly to the book.

I have one to make, maybe a bit later this year, but about four times the mass of yours, and it will be made by exactly the same method.

Well done for showing us all how.


John


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks John for the compliment. My first attempt at crankshaft turning seems to have been a success. We still have to see if it actually does its intended job properly.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

This evening I fitted the crankshaft in the crankcase and tried to turn it by hand. It was binding at a particular angle. Took the crankshaft out, put it in the collet which was still fitted to the lathe and started the lathe. There was a slight wobble at the end which was confirmed with a DTI. I suspect that the brass packing I put between the webs was too tight. Lesson learnt.

Using the DTI and a plastic hammer the crankshaft was trued. Tested again in the crankcase and it was much better. Gave it some running in on the lathe (photo).


----------



## vcutajar

This morning I was thinking of drilling the oil passageways in the crank but as I know that I work slowly and this afternoon I have to go to work I decided not to do the passageways.

I wanted to do something simple and decided to do the hole for the breather assembly in the rear crankcase. Marked the hole, fixed the casting to the angle plate and drilled and tapped for 6mm fine. As the surface in the area is round and tapered, I counterbored with an endmill 10mm so that the body of the breather will seat on a flat surface. Et voila finished. At least I did something today. This maching thing has become addictive. I need to do something, even if I sit down in front of the plans and plan something, at least I will not get withdrawal symptoms.


----------



## steamer

Looks good from here!  It's a fatal disease and there is no known cure...... ;D

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave.

Started work on the four oil passageways holes in the crank but only managed to finish three of them.

Drilled and tapped 3mm the first hole through web, from the top of the web to the crank centreline (photo 1). Set up to drill the second hole through the crankpin (photo 2). Used a wiggler to align the spindle with the hole mark (photo 3) and drilled till it broke into hole 1. Tapped 3mm. Also used a jewel screwdriver in hole one to see when I break into the hole. I got this idea from someone on the forum but can't remember who it was. SORRY. Good thing I had the extra long drill for this operation (photo 4).


----------



## vcutajar

Hole 3 was drilled in the crankpin until it broke into hole 2. Used the same screw driver to know when I reached hole 2. Next time I will do the forth long hole in the crank to meet hole 1.


----------



## vcutajar

Fourth hole finished and tapped 3mm. Used a steady rest to support the crankshaft. Started the hole using a normal size 2.5mm drill then continued with the long drill. I need to get me some 3mm grub screws to plug the holes that were tapped. One more hole needed in the crankshaft. This will be the oil feed hole but will do it at the same time when drilling the crankcase.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
Looks like your getting heaps done Mate
I recon you will get her running before I finish the Wallaby :big:
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

Methinks you are way ahead. :big:

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Made the oil inlet hole in the front crankcase casting. Held the casting in a vice and milled flat the boss of the oil inlet. Drilled through a 2.5mm hole and then drilled and tapped 5mm.

Next the oil inlet hole on the crankshaft which should meet the previously drilled hole in the crankcase. With the crankcase still in the vice, inserted the crankshaft and positioned it at TDC. With a transfer punch through the crankcase 2.5mm hole marked the crankshaft. Drilled a 2.5mm hole in the crankshaft and filed it with a small round file as per instructions.


----------



## vcutajar

Started work on the bronze counterweights for the crankshaft. The bronze casting came with the kit. Milled the bottom to give me a flat surface and then milled the top.


----------



## vcutajar

Continued work on the counterweights. Brought down the thickness of the casting to dimension on the lathe. Then mounted the casting on the milling table (photo 2). Used a 12mm endmill and milled the slot to the required depth of 3.175mm.


----------



## vcutajar

Using the DRO (thank God for them) I widened the slot to 12.7mm all the time using a piece of the excess material I had hacksawed off when making the crankshaft as a gauge. I do not want the slot to be a sloppy fit in the crankshaft webs.

Now I need to ask a question on the forum but I am going to post it in the questions and answers section as I think my question will get more visibilty there.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=17747.0


----------



## vcutajar

Did some more work on the balance weights. Hacksawed the casting so that I could separate both balance weights. Milled the flat at the top on both weights and then marked them so that next time I will mill the 15 deg. sides.


----------



## vcutajar

Milled the angled sides which I marked yesterday. The rest will be turned in the lathe when the balance weights are fixed to the crankshaft.

Made myself an extension for a 5.5mm slot drill (photo 3). Used a piece of 10mm silver steel, drilled and reamed 6mm (for the slot drill shaft), cleaned the bore and slot drill shaft with surgical spirit and superglued the slot drill in the shaft. I will let it cure till tomorrow and test it out. Still not sure if this will actually work out. We'll find out tomorrow.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I tried using the extended 5.5 slot drill that I made yesterday.  Used a piece of scrap mild steel, drilled a 3mm hole, drilled with a 5mm drill to a 2mm depth and then counterbored with the 5.5mm slot drill. I am happy to report that the extension worked and the glue held fast.

I drilled 5mm to a 2mm depth to give the slot drill less work to do.

Now I will make a similar extension for a centredrill.

When I am finished with these extensions I intend to try and remove the 5.5mm slot drill from the extension. If I heat it up do you think I will be able to pull out the slot drill? What do you think?


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday I made an extension for a centre drill (photo 1).

Today I drilled and counterbored the crank shaft webs. I put a piece of brass between the webs and clamped the crankshaft in the vice using an engineer's square to align it upright (photo 2). Using a wiggler aligned the spindle to the marked hole and then using the extended centre drill started the hole (photo 3). As you can see it was a tight fit. Drilled the hole 3mm with a long series drill. Then using a 5mm drill drilled 1.5mm depth. After that used the extended slot drill and counterbored to a depth of 2mm (photo 4). Another tight fit.

Made the other 3 holes using the same procedure.


----------



## vcutajar

Cleaned up the holes and counterbores and decided to give the balance weights a trial fit.

OMG there is something wrong here. :redface2: No way the connecting rod is going to pass between the balance weights. The balance weights should end up flush with the webs but for some reason they were not. Started checking dimensions of the webs and balance weights. Everything seemed correct (or so I thought). Measured again a couple of times but could not find what was wrong. Lit up a cigar and it was finished in record time. Panic was starting to take over. I was convinced that there was a wrong dimension on the plans. Finally, after 30 minutes, I found MY mistake. I misread the diagram of the slot of the balance weight. :wall:

Thank God it's a fixable mistake. All I need to do is make the slot deeper. So next time, I will have to re-mill the slots and hopefully keep the same width of the slot.


----------



## vcutajar

Well, today I milled the slot in the balance weights deeper. Did a trial fit and now it looks better and there is enough space between the balance weights for the connecting rod to pass through. Sorry, no photos today as I forgot the camera at home. Next operation is to drill and tap the holes in the balance weights.


----------



## steamer

Hey Vcutajar!

Keep at it man, you'll get there!

Nice save!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Now that looks much better (photo 1) and there is enough space for the conrod to pass between the balance weights.

Marked for the holes in the balance weights with a transfer punch. Drilled and tapped the holes 3mm. Setup the crankshaft with the balance weights on the lathe (photo 2) to trim the sides of the balance weights and webs at the same time.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Enjoyable thread Vince. I look forward to seeing it run.

But I gotta say...in Munich...spending time in a hotel? Poring over plans?
That just doesn't seem right. ;D
Says a lot about your interest in machining.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks zeeprogrammer for the interest.



> But I gotta say...in Munich...spending time in a hotel? Poring over plans?
> That just doesn't seem right.



I have to admit that even my wife makes the same comments. :-[

I am not good at being a tourist. I just go there to get the job done. Infact next week I have a two week stint in Paris and it's going to be the same story. Go to the sim and back to the hotel.

Well, this evening I finished cleaning up the crankshaft and balance weights and polished the journals. Oiled the journals, put the crank in the crankcase, and gave it a 15 minute run in the lathe. Turns nicely. My first crankshaft is finished. 22 days to make!!


----------



## cfellows

Ah, crankshafts are a thing of absolute beauty. Yours is a particularly fine example. Nice work!

Chuck


----------



## vcutajar

Chuck

Thanks for the compliment.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

As I will be going abroad in a weeks time, I don't intend to start working on any major component and leave it half finished. Instead I might do small things and maybe some planning on how to proceed. One thing I will do for sure is clean up the garage and put many tools in place, which I started doing this morning.

Another thing I did this morning was have a second look at how to bolt the two crankcase halves together. At the moment I am using Allen head bolts which I find convenient when assembling and disassembling the crankcase, but on an old engine as this one (1960 era) they look out of place. So my initial plan was to use studs and nuts instead. Well this morning I thought, how would hex head bolts look? So I put an Allen head bolt, a hex head bolt and a stud and nut in the crankcase (see photo) to compare the three solutions together. The big bolt above the stud is the oil drain plug. Looking at it, I am now leaning on using hex head bolts which will also match the oil drain plug. What do you think guys?


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
Crank is looking great mate as is the rest of your build.
If it was my engine id use the studs as the extra detail is nice and makes it clear that this is a drain plug 8)
my two cents is, id want the drain plug a little different but its worth what you paid for it ;D
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

Thanks for your input. What you said never crossed my mind. OK, 1 vote for studs. Anybody else?

Vince


----------



## steamer

I like the stud or the bolt..either way..but my personal preference would be to crown and polish the bolt or stud...instead of leaving it flat.

It's nice to know you have grade 5 hardware, but the ID's on the head detract I thin.

Just my opinion....it's your engine! ;D

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave.

Two votes for studs and one vote for hex bolt.

Dave, I am sorry if I am a bit obtuse but remember that English is not my native language. When you say crown and polish the bolt, am I correct in my understanding, that it means remove the markings on the head of the bolt and then polish the resultant flat surface??

Vince


----------



## ozzie46

Vince, nice work. That crankshaft looks wonderful.

  I'd go for studs but as said it's your engine. ;D ;D

 Ron


----------



## metalmad

hay Vince
what u recon about making the the drain plug out of brass hex?
Pete


----------



## steamer

Hi,

What I meant by crowned, was with a curve and polished
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/P1020141-1.jpg

And installed

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/P1020143.jpg

And another

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/P1120013.jpg

Dave

Changed photo's to links to reduce clutter...Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave for the explanation.

Thanks Ron for your vote. Score at the moment is three votes for studs and one vote for bolt. Seems I need to go back to the original plan of using studs.

Vince

p.s. Pete, yes that is also possible.


----------



## steamer

No worries Vince!  Build and we will watch! ;D

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Today I made a 4mm stud from 4mm bar stock BMS (photo 1). It really looked good (photo 2). I tried it out and it was obvious this was not going to work well. I was having problems aligning both crankcase castings when the stud was used. So that method didn't work as well as I had hoped.

Next, I used 4mm threaded rod. Did not look as good as the first stud I made (photo 3) but it worked well.


----------



## vcutajar

And this is how it looks with all the studs in place. Used a spring washer under each nut.


----------



## vcutajar

As I said in an earlier post, this week I would be doing only minor things on the Kiwi. Next week I will be away from the island for about a forthnight and as such I don't want to start any major component and leave it half finished.

What I did today is I took the cast iron that came with the kit for the cylinder liner and I roughed the OD to remove the hard surface. Westbury recommends doing this and then letting it rest for a while to remove internal stresses. I did this using an insert tool to get through the hard surface. Strangely enough, the surface did not seem that hard. When this was done, I sprayed it with WD40 and repacked it in the box. It's going to have a lot of time to 'rest'.


----------



## Mainer

The cast iron you got in the kit is quite likely a piece of continuous-cast normalized and annealed cast iron barstock. That stuff almost guaranteed to have better machining qualities than the c.i. that Westbury had to deal with 75 years ago or whatever it was. It shouldn't have any internal stresses or hard skin to speak of.

You may want to consider making "small pattern" nuts. I don't know if the metric system has an equivalent, but here in the U.S. there are "large pattern" and "small pattern" nuts. You'll need to translate this concept into metric if you decide to pay attention to it, but that shouldn't be difficult.

Large pattern nuts are the type commonly available for machine screws, so if you scale a 1" diameter bolt down to 1/8" (0.125") diameter (which happens to be #5 machine screw), the commonly available nuts for #5 machine screws won't be correctly scaled to correspond. 

The nuts you typically buy for #5 machine screws are large pattern and 5/16" (0.3125") across the flats. A standard nut for a 1" diameter bolt, however, is "small pattern" and is 1.5" a/f. Scale that down to 1/8 and the scale nut should be small pattern and only 3/16" (0.1875") a/f. Of course you could be modeling a "heavy pattern" nut for a 1" bolt, which is 1 5/8" (1.625" a/f), in which case a 1/8 scale nut wold be 13/64" (0.203125") a.f....

When I made the bolts and nuts for Kiwi, I guessed that Kiwi was about 1/4" scale of a comparable prototype, so with the aid of Machinery's Handbook and some guesses I figured out the scale bolt and nut head sizes for Kiwi's bolts and nuts and made them based on that.

As a side issue, if the 1" diameter bolt one is scaling down is 8 threads per inch, at 1/8 scale the bolt ought to be 64 tpi, and a #5 machine screw is only 40 tpi. The thread pitch, however, is not anywhere near as noticeable as the nut proportions when making it look "right." Using fine instead of coarse threads helps.


----------



## vcutajar

Steve

Thanks for the heads up on the c.i. This was the first time I turned c.i. and from what I read from Westbury's article and also from comments on this forum I thought it was not going to be easy, hence the insert tool. At the end of the day no problems were encountered and it machined nicely.

Thanks also for the tip on the pattern nuts.

Vince


----------



## Mainer

Your engine is looking really nice. You're doing a great job on it.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Steve. Still a long way to go but enjoying the trip.

Nothing to do today, so I invented something to do for the Kiwi. The flywheel on the engine uses a split tapered collet to hold it in place. So today I did a trial run of doing this tapered collet and it's mating hole. Used some left over BMS and drilled and reamed to the appropriate dimension. In photo 1, the one on the left is representing the hole in the flywheel, whilst the one on the right will eventually be the collet.

Started first with the imaginary flywheel hole. Set the topslide to 5 deg and using my smallest boring tool, turned the taper (photo 2). Next, I did the taper on the collet (photo 3), using exactly the same topslide setting and same tool. Obviously, I had to change the direction of turning of the chuck with this setup. As usual in my boring operations, the surface finish is not something to write home about.

Parted off the collet, used a hacksaw to create the split and the two finished products (photo 4).


----------



## vcutajar

And the two parts lightly mated together (photo 2). When the flywheel is bolted on, it should draw the split collet into the flywheel hole until it becomes flush in the hole. Photo 1 is depicting the same two parts on the crankshaft. This setup is also showing me to where I need to take the crankshaft thread next time.

At least now when I actually do the flywheel and collet I know exactly how to do it.


----------



## vcutajar

Not much done today. I increased the thread on the crankshaft till it just reaches the tapered split collet I did yesterday.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I was thinking of making the special nut for the other side of the crankshaft which holds the pinion in place. Should be an easy job but then I remembered that I don't have an 8mm fine tap set. So that's that. The nut is not going to happen in the next two days. Then for no particular reason I took the timing gears out to look at them. I decided to measure the thickness of the pinion, which goes on the crankshaft, and horror of horrors, it's too thin. Measured again and it's too thin. Measured the spur wheel and it's too thick!!

I have a suspicion that the thicknesses of the gears were by mistake interchanged when they were made. I guess I can thin out the spur wheel but I can't do anything about the pinion (actually there could be something done but I am going to leave that as a last resort).

So I need to email Kirk at Hemingways and see what he says, but I guess I'll do that when I come back from Paris. These gears have been giving me problems from day one. First they were out of stock and now they are of the wrong size.


----------



## vcutajar

Finally back home from abroad. Really missed my Kiwi. Whilst away managed to get in contact with Kirk at Hemingway and he agreed with me that the pinion was undersize and he would be sending me another one. I hope that he measures it before sending it.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning I went to buy an 8mm fine tap set for the special nut of the crankshaft. Arrived at this shop, asked for the taps and the guy asked me which one!! ???

"What do you mean?" I said. Well it seems that there are two pitch sizes for 8mm fine, 8 x 1mm or 8 x 0.75mm. *bang*

Obviously I did not know which pitch size I used for the thread so had to return home empty handed.

Back home I checked and I used the 8 x 1mm die to make the thread. Hopefully I will get the taps next Monday.


----------



## steamer

YUP I've run into that before....a comercial part calls for a "specific" thread and when I went to get the mating part locally only to find that I can't get that metric pitch ......at least locally.....

After that happens a couple times, you start getting suspicious about any size pitch metric in the States.


Dave


----------



## Admiral_dk

> you start getting suspicious about any size pitch metric in the States.



Yes you do, for instance a number of US electronic companies are using M3.5 and that has never been part of the original Metric definitions.

Standard Metric is always M3, M4, M5, M6 etc. - the "fun" stuff happens to be the fine pitch versions. In Europe a there's a standard M10 and it has a pitch of 1.5mm and the fine pitch is M10x1 but if you happen to have worked on a Japanese motorcycle, you'll know that there's a very popular pitch called M10x1.25 and worse - on all Japanese carburetors the pilot screw is M7x0.75 - there's no M7 at all in Europe, and if there where it would have had a pitch between 1 and 1.25mm.

I only encountered M8 (x1.25) and M8x1 so M8x0.75 is new to me, but why not.


----------



## vcutajar

Finally today I managed to do something on the Kiwi. Started work on the flywheel. I won't be following Westbury's instructions on making the flywheel so we will see how it goes. Used the bar stock that came with the kit, chucked it in the lathe, and faced one side. Then I drilled a shallow hole and opened up progressively with slot drills to 15mm and a depth of 11mm. Using a boring bar continued to open up the hole to 1.5" and a depth of 11.1mm. This should be the rear side of the flywheel.


----------



## vcutajar

Continued work on the flywheel. Cleaned up the rear end of the flywheel (photo 1). I was then going to start the front end of the flywheel but then realised that I have never cut a V-groove for the pulley.

After a bit of head scratching I decided that a lathe tool had to be ground from HSS. Marked the angles on a 3/8" HSS bar I had (photo 2). Sorry but the photo is a bit out of focus. After a lot of grinding the tool was finished (photo 3).

I gave it a try on a piece of mild steel. I kept the tool a bit below centre line in the hope of avoiding a dig in. The trial run was satisfactory (photo 4).

I am still not sure if this is the correct/easyest way of cutting a V-groove, so if there is a better way please chime in.


----------



## vcutajar

Continued work on the flywheel. The sequence of operations on the flywheel changed a bit from yesterday. So today I chucked up the flywheel and rough machined the front and also the diameter. Left all dimensions about 1mm larger (photo 1).

I then turned a piece of 10mm silver steel to 8mm and threaded the end 8mm fine (photo 2). This is going to be a mandrel on which to hold the flywheel for further machining.

I then chucked the flywheel again with the rear facing out and checked if it was running true (photo 3). Satisfied that it was running true, I drilled a 10mm hole and machined the taper (photo 4).

Left the taper setup as is so that tomorrow I will machine the tapered collet with the same setup.

p.s. This morning I also managed to buy the 8 x 1 mm tap set.


----------



## vcutajar

Machined the tapered collet from a piece of 15mm BMS using yesterday's setup. I then drilled and reamed the hole 8mm. I took it out of the chuck and then I thought, "Why not do another one at the other end, just in case". Problem was that I had not faced the other side and I could not disturb the lathe setup, so I milled the face of the bar.

Did the taper and 8mm hole on the other side of the bar (photo 1).

Parted off one of the collets, and hacksawed the slot. I was too lazy to setup the slitting saw in the mill. So I marked the centreline of the collet, clamped it in the milling vice just above the centreline and started the slot with a hacksaw blade supported on the vice jaws (photo 2). I then turned it 90 deg and used the hacksaw to continue cutting the slot. Deburred the collet and gave it a try on the mandrel I had previously made (photos 3 and 4). I really clamps the flywheel nicely.

Only problem I can anticipate, is that if I had to remove the flywheel from the actual engine, most probably I would need a puller.

Tommorrow going for a couple of days to Munich so I guess I will do the other collet after I come back.

p.s. I hope I am not overdoing it with the build photos. If the moderator thinks I should reduce the number of photos, I will oblige.


----------



## vcutajar

Finally back home. This morning finished off the second spare tapered collet for the fly wheel. I chose this tapered collet to clamp the flywheel to the mandrel I have already made.

Used an ER32 collet holder instead of the three jaw chuck and a live centre to machine the front part and the diameter of the flywheel. Kept the diameter of the flywheel about 1mm wider than the plans to give slightly more mass.

Then I machined the pulley groove with the tool I had already made. Made sure that the tool was at exactly 90 deg to the flywheel by using a DTI (photo 2). I machined the groove very, very slowly and thankfully the material used for the flywheel (from the kit) had good cutting qualities.

Next operation on the flywheel is to clean up and polish it. Not looking forward to do that, but I have to do that next otherwise it will never be done.


----------



## vcutajar

This evening, finished the flywheel and could not resist the temptation to give it a trial fit to see how it looks. I did not lock it with the nut just in case I could not remove it.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I started work on the shaft nut as Westbury calls it. This is my third attempt at this nut. First attempt was aborted when I realised that I did not have an 8mm fine tap set. Second attempt finished before even starting when I went to buy the tap set and I found out there where two pitch sizes and I could not remember which pitch I used to cut the mating thread.

Used a piece of 0.5" hex bar that came with the kit. Turned down one end 11mm (photo 1). Drilled and tapped 8mm fine (1mm pitch) (photo 2). Now came the part I always try to avoid - screw cutting on the lathe. The plans specified 8TPI which is close to 3mm pitch. Took out the appropriate gears and tried to fit them. They were hard to insert in the shaft and then I remembered that I always had problems changing gears. So I decided to investigate the problem and found that the holes in the gears were slightly undersize. No wonder they were a pain to insert and extract. So I opened up the hole using a 12mm endmill (photo 3). Nice fit now. As I was already setup I did the same for all the gears.

OK, put the 25 and 75 tooth gears and set it up for screw cutting. Gave it a very light pass to check for the pitch and it was nowhere near 3mm. That's why I hate screw cutting, I put the gears in the wrong position. Changed the gears and another very light cut and it was reading 3mm. Cut the screw to a depth of 0.3mm (photo 4). Then plans say even a shallow cut is sufficient. Cleaned it up. Not a very nice finish due to the mistake with the gears but it will do for now.


----------



## steamer

"......Not a very nice finish due to the mistake with the gears but it will do for now......."



It's Fine!  That is no big deal and will have NO effect on the functionality.  No Worries! ;D

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Dave

Being just me, it's not the functionality that I am worried about but those extra scrathes. At least they will be hidden in the timing compartment

Vince


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
If thats the oil flinger you are making I sure hope you are building for a counter clockwise engine rotation.
I have built the wallaby for a clockwise rotation, but the Kiwi may well be different.
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Pete

If built as described, the Kiwi will turn anti-clockwise hence the right-handed thread on the shaft nut.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

This evening finished the shaft nut.


----------



## coopertje

Hello Vince,

Nice work on your Kiwi Engine. :bow:

When making the tread, did you move towards or away from the headstock? If you moved towards the headstock, how did you stop the lathe to not crash your tool in the hex bar? With 3mm pitch you have quite a feeding speed...

Regards Jeroen


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Jeroen

Thanks for having a look.

I move towards the headstock and yes as you said the the feed speed is very fast. Add to that my slowest RPM is around 120 so disaster is just waiting to happen. So on the rare occasion where I need to do screw cutting on the lathe I manually turn the spindle from behind the headstock and stop exactly where I need to.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

I am approaching the stage where I need to make the cams which is something I have never done. So I have been searching around the net on easy ways to do them. I was hoping to use the milling method and found CamCalc II (http://modelenginenews.org/design/CamTable.php) to do some calculations. Problem is I am still struggling how to use it in practical terms.

Are there any other free applications that you know of that I can have a look at with usage explanations?

Vince


----------



## steamer

Ron's is pretty good.  I used it with a fixed interval of 6 degrees and it worked quite well.

A smaller interval will give a smooth cam, but 6 degrees worked very well.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Did not feel like doing much today. Just sat in the garage staring at the plans. Forced myself off the stool to do at least something easy. Took the cylinder liner I had previously rough machined and drilled a 22mm hole. I am already envisaging a problem with the liner when I come to bore it. The liner is 55.6mm long when finished and the maximum tailstock travel is only 58mm before it disengages from the tailstock leadscrew. Have to think about it more. In the meantime the cylinder liner is back in the box.


----------



## rhankey

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> I am already envisaging a problem with the liner when I come to bore it. The liner is 55.6mm long when finished and the maximum tailstock travel is only 58mm before it disengages from the tailstock leadscrew. Have to think about it more.



Are you worried how the wife may respond when you mention your current lathe is not big enough and that you need another one? I understand how that can be a problem. ;-)

Otherwise, can you bore let's say 40mm or so, then carefully slide the tail stock forward to complete the bore? If you have to clear chips, you may have to slide the tail stock in and out. I'm still relatively new at this compared to the seasoned veterans here, but when I've had to do this, advance the bit into the bore while the tail stock is locked in place, then I loosen the tail stock and carefully push it in further, while the bore helps guide the bit.

Robin


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Robin

Now that's an idea I did not think about. Get myself a larger lathe. :big: I do not think the "station manager" would approve that.

Moving the tailstock forward, I've done that before when drilling very deep holes and it turned out ok. I suspect that if I do that for boring I might introduce irregularities in the bore so I would prefer to do the whole lenght without moving the tailstock. It might still work out well with the tailstock travel that I have. I just have to give it a try. If that does not go well as a last resort I can always go visit my cousins shop and ask him to do it on one of his big lathes which he uses to earn a living.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Decided to redo the camshaft (the shaft that will hold the cams and the gear). I had done it exactly as per plans but it always seemed too short. So this time I made it longer so that I can trim the lenght later on. This shaft will have a 2mm groove milled in the thick portion for a 2mm key. The original shaft I had made was 6mm diameter at the widest part and 5mm at the ends which only left 1mm for the depth of the groove. The new shaft is 7mm diameter in the middle and 5mm at the ends which will give me 2mm as a depth for the groove which I think is better.

This also reminded me that I still have not received the new pinion Hemingways said they were going to send me (19th March). I think I will email Kirk and see if the gear has been sent.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning got myself a 2mm slot drill so that I can make the groove for the key in the camshaft. Was very carefull to avoid breaking it and managed to do the 2mm slot, 1mm deep for the key.

After that I started scrounging for a boring bar for the cylinder liner. Managed to find a 14mm carbide tipped boring bar which should be adequate. Had to shim up the toolpost with a couple of parallels to get the boring bar at centreline. Also had to grind a little the head of the boring bar so the it will fit. Gave it a trial cut and it worked nicely.

And that's when it dawned on me. I made a big boo boo a couple of posts ago. I was worried that the tailstock travel would not be enough for boring the cylinder liner. I am not using the boring bar in the tailstock but in the toolpost oh: *club* oh:

It must have been one of those days. No harm done.


----------



## rhankey

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> And that's when it dawned on me. I made a big boo boo a couple of posts ago. I was worried that the tailstock travel would not be enough for boring the cylinder liner. I am not using the boring bar in the tailstock but in the toolpost oh: *club* oh:



That was the part I overlooked in my prior response - that you were intending to use a boring bar in the tail stock, which I agree probably wouldn't be a good idea with sliding the tailstock in or out. I assumed that if you were using the tailstock, that you were using a drill bit. And if you were using a boring bar, you would be using a tool post on the carriage.

Good to hear though that you figured out a workable plan, even if it doesn't allow you to justfy buying a bigger lathe.

Robin


----------



## vcutajar

Oh well, it was one of those instances where my brain would have gone for a lunch break. Just like when trying to drill stainless (many moons ago) and the drill bits would either blunt or break and me blaming the drill bits or the material. Two days later I realised that the spindle was in reverse.


----------



## vcutajar

These last couple of days I have continued working on the cylinder liner. Bored to 25.35mm (25.4mm should be the final diameter after honing). And finished the outside diameter to dimension. Ordered from ebay a Sealey type hone kit.

Still haven't received any response from Hemingways regarding my query if they already sent the pinion gear!


----------



## vcutajar

Finished the cast iron cylinder liner. All it needs is honing but that will be done after the liner is pressed into the aluminium cylinder.

The liner was not planned to be done at this stage but as I had already started it might as well get it finished. Sprayed it with WD40 and packed it back in the box.

My original plan was to fit the timing gears and work on the cams but the waiting for a new pinion gear is creating havoc to my plans. I am surprised how long Hemingways takes to repond to emails. Maybe the next item will be to figure out how to machine the cams.


----------



## vcutajar

I think I figured out how to use the Cam Lift Calculator (http://modelenginenews.org/design/CamTable.php). This http://modelenginenews.org/feeney/pg7.html#cams helped in understanding how to machine the cam using the calculator.  Decided to do a practice run to do the cams. Used aluminium rod as that is what I had at the correct size. Machined the blank for both cams and drilled it 7mm (photo 1).

Setup the dividing head on the mill and located it using a parallel test bar and DTI (photo 2).

Printed the results for the inlet and exhaust cam. Used 1 degree increments. Used a ruler to keep track of the movements in degrees and z axis using the DRO (photo 3). Finished the exhaust cam and the shape looks good (photo 4). Photo came out a bit blurry. Next time I will try to do the inlet cam.


----------



## vcutajar

Today finished the second cam and they came out good. The angle between the cams and the nose radius of the cams (which are not the same) came out spot on. The base circle diameter ended up 0.16mm undersize which hopefully I will make better on the actual cams.

I made a trial fit in the camshaft and put it in the Kiwi and it has shown me that some adjustments need to be done namely to the tappet guide. I forgot that I had left 1mm extra to the cylinder platform which means that I need to mill off 1mm from the tappet guide.

I am also having second thoughts about the camshaft being 7mm instead of 6mm.


----------



## John S

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> I am surprised how long Hemingways takes to repond to emails.



Doesn't Malta have bank holidays ?


----------



## vcutajar

Hi John

Sure we do and we had some many that some years back somebody decided to reduce them. Like everybody else we love the holidays.

The thing is that on the 19th March they said that they were going to send a new gear, and on the 3rd April I sent an email to see if it was actually sent. Just out of curiosity, when are the Easter holidays in the UK?


----------



## vcutajar

Decided to stop work on the cams, camshaft and timing gears until some tooling I ordered arrives and some decisions are taken. In the meantime, to do something useful, I made the crankcase oil inlet connection. There was no information on the plans of how to do it, so I made it out of 6mm BMS, tapped 5mm on one end and machined 5mm with some v grooves at the other end. It was drilled 3mm.


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday the Sealy type hone arrived and from the looks of it is a decent honing kit. Today the other tooling I had ordered last Monday arrived and this evening started work on the cams.

A couple of days ago I made two expanding mandrels (8 and 6mm) as described by Ramon (http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/table-engine-tale-15630/index15.html). These will be used in machining the gears to size.


----------



## vcutajar

During the last couple of days I have been slogging with the cams and today I finally finished them. They were made from a piece of 5/8" silver steel that came with the kit. I used the same method that I used in the previous trial cut of the cams. They came out fine and to dimension. I had the same problem that I had when I did the trial cut, namely from where to start the second cam to keep the correct angle between the cams. I always get confused when angles come into play. All I can say that I spent nearly an hour fussing over it to get the correct angle.

The hole in the cams was made 6mm, so I had to reduce the camshaft from 7mm to 6mm.

Also today, my youngest daughter got her driving licence and I suspect that this week will be spent mostly with her in the car than in the garage. Not really looking forward to this (is it just me?) but I guess it has to be done. Traffic here is so awful and chaotic.


----------



## vcutajar

Some good news. Yesterday I sent Hemingways an email on a different email address and today Kirk responded saying that the gear has been dispatched today.

This encouraged my do do something with the gears that I have. I decided to increase the hole in each gear to the required diameter, namely 6mm for the 40T gear and 8mm for the 20T gear. To do this I held the gears in the milling vice between soft jaws (to protect the teeth) on a couple of parallels. I made an arbor for the gears which fits tightly in the original hole so that I can locate it under the drill chuck. Drilled the hole on 0.5mm increments and reamed it.

Made a trial fit of the gears to see if they mesh correctly and was pleased that they actually do and turn smoothly. The 20T gear is the one which is undersize in thickness. Maybe next time I will machine the 40T gear.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I did two things.

I milled the tappet guide reducing the height by about 1.5mm. 1mm would have been enough but just to make sure I went down to 1.5mm.

The other thing I did was break the Z axis locking handle on my X3 . The handle is slipping on the splines of the stud (photo 1). At first I thought I could use one of the handles for the X or Y axis but they are different. So I made a temporary repair by removing the stud and handle and replaced it with an 8mm allen head bolt (photo 2). Phoned the guy from where I bought my mill and asked him to order two handles. He said it should not take to long to get them, but as a last resort I think Arc Eurotrade has them also.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I received the pinion gear from Hemingways and started work on both gears.

Started with the spur brass gear and used the 6mm expanding mandrel to machine it to size. Used a profile tool for some bling.


----------



## vcutajar

I then worked on the pinion steel gear and used the 8mm expanding mandrel I had previously made to machine it to size.

The timing gears are now finished. The pinion gear will be pinned to the crankshaft at a later stage and the spur gear and also the cams will need to be broached for a keyway when I manage to get my hands on a 2mm keyway broach. There is an outlet in the UK that is selling a metric keyway broach set but it has been out of stock for a while and I am keeping my eye on it.


----------



## ronkh

Hi vc,

Have watched this from the word go and it is very nice and informative.
I might of asked this of you in an earlier post (but I can't remember)!, so I will ask just in case I didn't. Is it easy to obtain material in Malta or do you have to source from abroad? How do you obtain your metal/steel/brass etc? Naval base maybe?

Kind regards,

Ron.


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Ron

Thanks for checking in the Kiwi build diary.

I tend to find most raw materials locally but not everything. For example, steel, we get bright mild steel and structural steel (what they use in the building industry). I do not ask which type because nobody knows. Aluminium only one type. We find stainless 303,304 and 316, some cast iron, phosphor bronze and aluminium bronze, copper and brass (but not gun metal). If I happen not to find a particular metal that I need I generally replace it with something else.

The only time I needed to source something from abroad is during this build when I needed a piece of tufnol sheet and I could not find a suitable replacement for it.


----------



## vcutajar

Thought I would start work on the connecting rod but spent all the time in the garage sitting and staring at the conrod bronze casting trying to figure out from where to start and how to start. I had a look also at rhitee93's PM Research No.1 build log to give me some inspiration. Brian did the conrod from a casting but his casting looked much better than mine. I also read that some people ditch the conrod casting and do it from bar stock because it's easier. Suspect that tomorrow is going to be another sitting down session as I still have not figured out anything.


----------



## vcutajar

I think I have a plan. Not sure if it works out but it's the best I could think of. There are no flat surfaces and nothing is parallel on this casting so I need a flat surface to use as a reference.

Started out by roughly marking out the centre line of the beam of the conrod. Clamped the conrod on the mill table and shimmed the beam with feeler gauges to bring the centreline as much as possible to be parallel with the mill table (Photo 1 & 2).

I then slowly milled the big end and the small end to have a flat surface as a reference (the big end was about 1mm higher then the small end) (Photo 3).

With the conrod having two flat and parallel surfaces, I put it on the granite plate and marked out a centreline around the conrod. From this centreline I marked the big end and the small end for 0.5" width. Also marked the conrod beam for the correct width (Photo 4).


----------



## vcutajar

Today I milled the beam, big end and small end of the conrod.


----------



## vcutajar

Well today spent nearly half a day in the shop to drill and tap two 3mm holes in the conrod. :-[

80% of the time to setup and 20% to mill, drill and tap.

Used an angle plate on the granite plate. With a toolmaker clamp held the conrod lightly to the angle plate and nudged it vertical using an engineer's square (photo 1). I then used a clamp on the small end (photo 2). Checked again it was still vertical and used another clamp to the big end (photo 3).

I then transferred the setup to the mill table and squared it up. I had previously marked the position of the holes on the conrod. Using the needle point of the wiggler I put the spindle over both holes and wrote down the X and Y readings for each hole. Using a 6mm slot drill I milled both flats where the bolts will rest. Then using the previously recorded coordinates I drilled and tapped for 3mm (photo 4).

Next operation is to saw the big end but I am still not certain how I should do this and keep both ends aligned. Hope I have not missed a step.


----------



## BBQHOG

Great work. I'm new here and have been following along. Reintroducing myself to machining with a new(1939)lathe and a new Grizzly mill. And no the "head timekeeper" doesn't understand why I have to keep ordering this and that and I tell her it's because I saw you guys using it and therefore to further my knowledge of model machining I must have the tools to do it with.(thanks). Your statement 80% setup and 20% machine time reminds me that the first shop teacher told me , spend 80% on setup, 15% on clean up, and in the other 5% you can run the machine and smoke and have a cup of Joe. I'm gonna be watching this one. And again great work


----------



## ProdEng

Interesting setup on the conrod, look forward to seeing the next steps.

Jan


----------



## vcutajar

Hi BBQHOG and Jan. Thanks for checking in.

We all learn from each others ups and downs on this forum. I might have overdone it with the clamps on the conrod but wanted to make sure the thing did not move :big:.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday I setup the conrod in the vice sandwiched between two sets of parallels. The parallels were holding the conrod between the small and big end (photo 1).

Today decided that the setup was good enough but just to make sure that this sucker does not move I applied a toolmakers clamp on each side of the parallels (photo 2).

I did the cut with a 1.5mm slitting saw at 300 rpm and a depth of cut of 0.2mm. I was not taking any chances. Eventually (after 64 passes) I finished the cut. Photo 4 showing the two cut pieces before cleanup.


----------



## arnoldb

There you go Vince.

You certainly erred on the side of caution there 

When you're out and about, collect people's business cards (or any other thin cardstock for that matter; the business cards are always free  ). The stiff cardboard ones are great for helping to reliably hold parts where it's not easy to get good purchase on or that are shaped a bit irregularly, and prevents the vise from marring a surface as well.

IMHO, if you had clamped the conrod with paper adding the extra friction, you could have easily slit the end off in a single pass or two.

Kind regards, Arnold.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Arnold for the tip. I actually used it when I set it up on the angle plate to drill the two holes. For some reason I forgot to use the same trick to do the cut.

Yes I admit I went overboard again in the clamping of the conrod :big: but I was still having Simon's photos at the back of my mind.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Some more progress with the conrod. Drilled 3mm clearance holes in the big end cap. Cleaned both mating surfaces of the big end and bolted them together (photo 1).

I then clamped the conrod to the mill table and drilled and reamed 10mm the big end (photo 2) and 6mm the small end (photo 3).

Now I need to skim the faces of the big end and small end and clean up the beam of the conrod. Maybe tomorrow.


----------



## arnoldb

Coming along well Vince Thm:

 :big: I wasn't referring to the clamping - it's always better to clamp down a bit more. It's the 64 passes that got me - I'd bet you had a sore crank-arm after that!

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## vcutajar

I was using my temperamental mill table power feed.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Hand fitted the conrod to the crank. Took a bit of elbow grease but got it where I wanted it (photo 1). After I finish the rest of the work on the conrod I will give it a final hand fitting session.

I also put the cranksaft with the conrod in both halves of the crankcase to see if there is any interference. Found that it touches slightly with the front crankcase (photo 2). To tell the truth, I did not do any machining on the inner walls of the crankcase. A slight touch with the Dremel should fix it.


----------



## vcutajar

There was a change of plans and we did not go out this evening, so I disappeared to the garage.

Set up the rotary table on the mill. I will be using these two tools (photo 1) for the next operations. They are MT2 tapers which fit the hole of the rotary table. One has a 6mm and the other a 10mm shaft. I had made these during a previous build (not an engine).

Put the tool with the 6mm shaft in the rotary table and put the small end of the conrod in it. Clamped the conrod over two parallels to the rotary table and milled the outside wall of the small end (photo 2 & 3).


----------



## vcutajar

Replaced the 6mm MT2 taper tool with the 10mm and using the same setup as yesterday cleaned up the big end.


----------



## vcutajar

Cleaned the sides of the conrod beam and marked both halves of the big end with a centrepunch.


----------



## vcutajar

Conrod finished after 8 days!!!

Drilled the oil hole in the small end with a centre drill. I was going to clean up the the "I" section of the beam but then I remembered that in commercial cast conrods that part is left rough so I left it as is (nice excuse ;D). Just gave it a lick with a Dremel wire brush.

Trial fit in the crankshaft and it turns smoothly. Removed some material from the front crankcase (where the conrod had some interference) with a Dremel and problem fixed.

I think the next item on the agenda will be the cylinder casting. Spent the rest of the time in the garage trying to figure out a plan of action for this part. Still no plan but I think in the meantime I will be doing an aluminium template for the base of the cylinder. This item is not called out for in the article but I suspect I will need it further down the line.


----------



## Catminer

Conrod finished after 8 days!!!


 Way to go Vince, the con. rod turned out very well.
Almost nothing to it ;D

Peter


----------



## smfr

Nice job on the conrod, and I'm glad my mistakes helped you 

Simon


----------



## vcutajar

Yes Simon it opened my eyes. I hope you have managed to save your conrod.

Peter, it's a good thing I am not doing a V8 ;D ;D.


----------



## vcutajar

Whilst marking out the position of the holes in the cylinder base template I noticed a mistake in the plans. The spacing of the holes in the water-cooled version are wrong. The diagram for the air-cooled version is correct with 1.25" spacing whilst the water-cooled version is giving two different spacings, 1.5" and 1.25".

Still haven't decided on a plan of action on the cylinder.


----------



## vcutajar

Nothing much to report. These last two days, between real work and helping my eldest daughter in printing her chemistry Masters thesis, I haven't spent much time in the garage. To compensate ;D I ordered the 2 & 3 mm keyway broach set from the UK which just became available (in stock). I need this to cut the keyway in the cam and the gear. Also yesterday I ordered off ebay a co-axial center gauge which I have been putting off for a while.

I am still thinking how best to hold the cylinder for boring and outside machining. I tried in the 4 jaw chuck but the chuck is too big for this job. I just can't machine all the outside at one go. I am now thinking of using the faceplate but still have to try it out.


----------



## vcutajar

I think I have a plan for all the setups for machining the cylinder.

As the 4 jaw chuck was still installed I faced the top of the cylinder (photo 1) and then machined the base of the cylinder to the proper height (photo 2). At least this way both faces should be parallel.

Photo 3 is showing why I can't use my 4 jaw chuck for the rest of the operations. I can bore and also make the fins but I cannot reach the bottom part of the cylinder below the fins.

So in photo 4 I am proposing to use the faceplate to hold the cylinder. For boring I will hold it with clamps and then when that is finished I will lock the cylinder to the faceplate with a threaded rod passing through the newly bored out hole and the lathe spindle. I will then remove the clamps and work on the outside of the cylinder.

We will see how it goes.


----------



## mzetati

Vince, 
ain't the one to give suggestions You could follow blindfolded, but I would have machined the base and bore on the same setup. Then the external & top surfaces on a mandrel.

Marcello


----------



## vcutajar

Benvenuto Marcello

Thanks for your comments. I believe I considered that option at one time but for some reason that I can't remember I did not use that setup you suggested. I think it must have been something with the shape of the casting. For sure I needed to face of the top first and then remove the excess material from the bottom.

Well this evening I fitted the faceplate to the lathe. It has been a long time since I used it last so I checked the middle part of the faceplate (where the casting will be sitting) for trueness (photo 1). Plus/minus 0.005mm. Good enough for me.

I then held the casting to the faceplate using a 14mm threaded rod through the lathe spindle and using a DTI on the bottom round section of the casting (photo 2), centered it as much as I could considering it is still a rough casting. With the casting centered I then clamped it to the faceplate and removed the threaded rod.

I then started the boring operation (photo 3). I brought it close to dimension but will finish it off tomorrow.


----------



## vcutajar

This morning finished the boring operation and then used a threaded rod through the lathe spindle and cylinder bore and tightened it on a thick aluminium washer (photo 1).

Started work on the outside of the casting. Made the first fin (photo 2).


----------



## steamer

Gotta love a good faceplate job!

I don't see anything wrong with that ....nice one!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Dave

I am not really a fan of the faceplate, but sometimes one just can't do without it.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Finished lathe work of the cylinder casting.

Photo 1 is showing the clean up of the fins at the specified 10 deg taper. There where some imperfections in the casting which I did not remove because it would have meant making the fins smaller. I will have to just live with it.

All that remains is the clean up of the sides of the base on the mill.

Just could not resist and put the cylinder on the crankcase to see how it looks.

Before I do anything else I need to cleanup the lathe and the mill table.


----------



## vcutajar

Well, I have cleaned up the lathe and the mill. They did not last long ;D. Oiled up the faceplate and stored it.

I was considering doing the hole for the cylinder liner in the crankcase platform but hesitated a little when I realised I needed to mark the centre of a hole in an already existing rough cast hole. Then I remembered somebody else having this dilemma and solving it with a broomstick (http://www.modelenginenews.org/projects/whippet/p1.html).

I did not use the broomstick but used a piece of round brass. Jammed it in the hole and now I have something solid on which to mark the centre. Thankfully I had left marks on the platform of the crankshaft axis and the split between the crankcase halves was the other axis used to mark the centre.


----------



## vcutajar

Nothing done on the Kiwi the last couple of days because of tool binge week ;D ;D.

Yesterday I received the 2 & 3mm keyway broach set and also the coaxial centering gauge. Have been playing with them instead of doing something on the Kiwi. I decided that I am not going to use the mill for broaching the keyway in the cams (drill rod). I would not like to damage the quill. So I got myself another new toy to play with. A 20 ton hydraulic press. Its a bit overkill but it was the smallest I could find.


----------



## vcutajar

Enough playing with the new toys and did some work on the Kiwi.

Located the rotary table under the mill spindle using the coaxial centering gauge ;D. Clamped the crankcase to the rotary table making sure the previously marked centre was in the centre. Milled the pocket in the crankcase and did a trial fit with the cast iron liner (photo 2). Using the same setup cleaned up the slot where the conrod passes in the same pocket.


----------



## steamer

Nice one Vince.  Your well on your way there.  Looks great!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave

I have no doubt that eventually I will finish the Kiwi. The only nagging doubt I keep getting is if it will actually run. I guess I will find out when I get there.

I guess every newbie in model engine building gets that feeling.

Vince


----------



## steamer

A hot spark, some compression and a dribble of fuel.....it'll run
Have faith

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Today it was decided that the cast iron liner would be inserted into the cylinder.

I thought I would try the gentle approach first and if that did not work than the brute force approach would be used (with the press). Put the liner in a freezer bag and put it in the freezer (with permission from the wife) for four hours. I then put the cylinder in the oven (also with permission) for about 45 minutes. Took out the cylinder from the oven and the liner from the freezer and the liner just slipped in the cylinder and left it to cool off. Checked it after cooling off and the liner does not move. I did not think it would be that easy.

In photo 1 the lip of the liner is visible at the top of the cylinder and at the bottom of the cylinder the bottom of the liner is also visible. This part will go in the pocket I milled out yesterday in the cylinder platform.

Back in the garage, I used the template I had made and a homemade transfer punch (photo 2) to mark out the four holes in the base of the cylinder (photo 3).


----------



## vcutajar

Time does fly. Today I checked when I started on this project and it's been a little more than six months. I guess I am about halfway finished so I guess I should be finished by the end of this year ;D. I am not giving myself a deadline. It will finish when it's finished.

Drilled the holes I had marked yesterday in the cylinder base. I used a cone shaped wobbler to locate the marks.

Packed everything in the box as tomorrow i will be going to Germany for six days (work not holiday).


----------



## steamer

Shrink fts can be a challange. Often they go very well....other times....not so much

Well done!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave

I guess I was lucky. That's why I had plan B as a last resort.


----------



## steamer

Always have a plan B!  ;D


----------



## vcutajar

It's good to be back home. Arrived yesterday but was in no mood to do anything on the Kiwi. I hate travelling as a passenger on a plane.

I also see there is lots of activity in the casting section of the forum. That's nice.

Today I continued where I left off. I need to drill and tap 4mm four holes in the cylinder platform. The plan was to use a transfer punch to mark the holes with the cylinder in place. Unfortunately due to the shape and geometry of the fins I could not use the usual transfer punch. So I made a very short version of the transfer punch (photo 1).

Marked the holes (photo 2) and drilled and tapped 4mm (photo 3). Next I will make the 4mm studs.


----------



## vcutajar

Made the studs out of 4mm threaded rod. Spent a lot of time playing around with the studs to get them at the correct lenght.

Photo 1 shows the cylinder platform with the studs and photo 2 shows the cylinder in place with one spring washer and nut to one of the studs.

Next operation will either be the drilling of the two remaining oil holes (which would complete the crankcase) or the honing of the cylinder liner.


----------



## vcutajar

Drilled the two oil holes for the two camshaft bushes.

Squared the vise on the mill table and tilted it 45 deg as per plans. Did the timing cover bush first (photo 1) and it came out well. Next I did the crankcase hole which starts from the pocket for the cylinder liner and should end up nearly at the edge of the bush (photo 2). I was already having second thoughts if the hole was going to exit where it should, but I drilled it (1.5mm). Well it ended up exactly at the edge of the bush. Not exactly where I wanted it. So I drilled another hole starting from the original one but this time used 30 deg tilt. Ended up in the bush nearly where I wanted it. So this bush will have to oil supplies.


----------



## idahoan

Vince

I have been enjoying following the progress on your Kiwi; it sure is looking good.

Thanks for the updates.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave

Welcome to the ups and downs of my first engine build.

Vince


----------



## ShedBoy

Looking good Vince 
Brock


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Brock.


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday I started honing the cylinder liner and this morning finished it. At first I thought I would do it on the lathe but as I am a lazy person that meant changing the belts to slow it down. So I used the mill and held the cylinder in the vise under the spindle. But I was making a mess, so I removed the vise and handheld the cylinder. Photo 1 shows the setup I used. I used the bottom of a plastic water bottle and filled it with kerosene. I used a small plastic container to pour kerosene from the top of the liner during the honing operation. I was aiming for an ID of 25.4mm and got it at 25.403mm (photo 2) which is close enough. As it is the piston OD will be fitted to the cylinder.

The inside of the cylinder is smooth enough but not as smooth as if I had to polish it. I understand that it should be this way to keep oil on the liner (photo 3). Am I correct?

Now I need to ask a couple of questions (in the Question and Answer section) about piston rings.


----------



## John Rudd

The cylinder and the piston skirt should not be polished but should be smooth..helps retain the lube oil...


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks John

I suspected so.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

After posting my question in the Question and Answer section (http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=18754.msg194118#msg194118) I got some fine ideas to work on the piston rings.

This morning I was looking at the piston dimensions and I think I am missing a dimension on the plans. I cannot find the height of the piston. It could be I am still fuzzy this morning (came back from work in the middle of the night). The photo is a snapshot from the large scale plans I have and I think the dimension that is missing is the distance between the bottom of the second groove and the top of the hole of the wrist pin. I estimated it should read 1/16" and if so the height of the piston should be 15/16" (adding fractions is not my forte).

I think I am going back to the question and answer section and put the question there and see what people think.


----------



## vcutajar

Marcello answered the question and John confirmed it. There was a missing dimension and it should be 1/16" as I estimated. Problem is, when I added the dimensions I forgot to add the missing dimension *bang*. The height of the piston should be 1.00".


----------



## vcutajar

Well this evening I worked on the piston rings to get the end gap right.

These piston rings came with the kit and I was quiet impressed the way they were packed. They came in a plastic container padded in cotton wool (photo 1).

I held the ring in the milling vise (photo 2) and used a needle file to file the gap. As was suggested it the other thread where I asked the question about the end gap, it does not take a lot of filing. Two strokes with the file and check. Repeated until got the end gap correct. When checking the piston ring in the liner I used a piece of BMS which just fits the bore (photo 3) to push the ring in and keep it square. Used the same piece of BMS to push the ring out.

Photo 4 shows the ring in the bore but the end gap is so small that it is not visible. I was aiming for an end gap of between 0.076mm and 0.10mm. The first ring I got between 0.05mm and 0.10mm and the second ring at just below 0.05mm.

The plans call for various clearances in the piston OD, namely

Top Land - 0.006"
Ring Belt  - 0.004"
Skirt     - 0.003"

So if the bore is 1.00" does this mean that I machine the piston skirt 1.00" - 0.003" = 0.997"?

I am a bit ashamed going back to the question and answer section with this question so I will leave it here and see what happens.


----------



## rebush

Vince: I'm not sure if it holds true for model engines, but given that information for a motorcycle I would leave the piston at 1 inch and hone the .003 out of the cylinder. If you dress the piston you're back to refitting the rings. Roger


----------



## rebush

Vince: I believe I misread the information. If you already have the rings sized to the piston then the .003 would come off the piston. I'm used to having a set piston size and making everything else fit them. Sorry for the confusion. Roger


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Roger

Actually I never knew pistons had different ODs. I always thought that they had one uniform OD. This is the first time I am turning a piston so I am religiously following the plans. I had a look at a different site where there was a build log of a different Westbury engine and the same thing was done with the clearances.

I suspect that if I make the piston with one uniform OD nothing untoward will happen. This engine will not run for long periods as it was designed but I do not want to take chances.

Vince


----------



## moconnor

Hello Vince,

The clearance in the ring land area is always greater than the piston to cylinder wall clearance (measured at 90 degrees to the piston pin on the skirt). This is done to keep the ring land area from expanding and scuffing the cylinder wall due the the higher temperature of the piston in this area because of its proximity to the combustion chamber.

Great job on this engine. I have been following along with keen interest.

Regards,
Mike


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Mike

Thanks for chipping in with that info.

As I might have said before, although not new to metal machining (self-taught), this is my first engine build and from a casting. The learning curve is steep but I am coping (with the help of the forum community) as long as I do not try to rush. So what might look obvious to somebody who has a couple of engines under his belt, it might not be obvious to somebody who is still green. Add to that the fact that castings are involved and there is always that fear that you might ruin it if you do not get it right.

So THANK YOU guys for your support and patience with us newbies. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

This evening I have been mostly experimenting with some setups and cutting ops I need to do on the piston. I will be mostly following Westbury's instructions and some other info I found on another site (http://www.modelenginenews.org/projects/whippet/p6.html) which is also similar but explained better and with pictures.

I started off by measuring off the centre height of the lathe with a height gauge (photo 1). I put the height gauge away with the height locked in as I will need it further down the line.

Next I experimented, using a piece of aluminium bar, cutting the piston ring grooves. I used a parting tool with a 1/16" parting blade which I got earlier just for this job. The groove is a bit tight for my piston rings so I enlarged it slightly by moving the tool sideways. Perfect fit. Photo 2 shows the ring sitting in the groove.

Next I was going to fit the 4 jaw chuck to hold the piston casting in the lathe but I'd thought I would first give it a try with the 3 jaw chuck (photo 3). The OD of the piston runs nearly true but the ID is a bit wobbly. As I need to start with the skirt ID I will need to true it up as much as possible with the 4 jaw chuck.


----------



## Charles Lamont

> The plans call for various clearances in the piston OD, namely
> 
> Top Land - 0.006"
> Ring Belt - 0.004"
> Skirt    - 0.003"



Interesting. At 1" diameter, and with a thermal expansion coefficient for aluminium alloys of about 23 x 10-6, the 0.003" difference suggests an expected temperature difference between the crown and skirt of about 130oC.


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Charles

You got me there. I do not know what to say. Is this good or bad?

I have checked other Westbury engines using 1" pistons and he always specifies the same clearances. Oh well we'll find out eventually.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Started work on the piston casting. Replaced the 3 jaw chuck with the 4 jaw and trued up as much as possible the ID of the skirt. Took some skimming cuts on the ID to clean it up as much as possible (photo 1). Ended up about 0.2mm wider than the plans and still did not clean it up fully.

I then worked on the OD of the piston and left it a little oversize on purpose (photo 2). After that I reduced the length of the skirt to size. Don't ask how. It was too convoluted.

I then eyeballed the bosses horizontal as much as possible (photo 3). Then, using the height gauge I locked yesterday on the centre height of the lathe, I scribed two horizontal lines, one on each side of the piston (photo 4).

That's all for today. I was going to remove the piston from the chuck but had second thoughts and left it there.


----------



## vcutajar

Continued work on the piston.

Marked a line 12.7mm above the skirt (photo 1). This should be the correct place to drill the hole for the wrist pin. Put the piston in the 3 jaw chuck and cleaned up the top of the piston and also the thick OD of the piston (photo 2).

Now I need to increase the distance between the wrist pin bosses. Put the piston and clamped it in the vise and trued it up parallel to the mill table (photo 3). Using a long series 6mm end mill I milled the bosses to get a 9/16" distance between them (photo 4).


----------



## vcutajar

Some more progress on the piston.

Took my faithfull angle plate and scribed a line on it (photo 1). I then clamped the piston to the angle plate (skirt to plate) matching the lines on the piston to the lines on the angle plate (photo 2). Let me just say that it is not as easy as it sounds.

I then located the mark for the hole with a wobbler and centre drilled and drilled 5.5 mm the first hole. I then passed the centre drill through the same hole to mark the boss on the other side. Drilled again 5.5 mm and then reamed both holes 6mm (photo 3).


----------



## vcutajar

And here it is the piston hole finished.


----------



## vcutajar

I have been working on a mandrel to hold the piston with so that I can turn the OD of the piston, the face and the grooves for the ring. I have to remember not to remove it from the chuck before I am finished.

Photo 1 is showing the mandrel and photo 2 the piston on the mandrel.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I finished the piston with the correct clearances. Yesterday I had calculated all the diameters starting from a cylinder bore diameter of 25.43mm and today I did the same calculations to see if they were correct. During machining of the final diameters I got close to the diameter with the cutting tool and then sneaked up on the final diameter with 280 grit sand paper (photo 1). What I noticed during this build is that the material for the aluminium castings is very soft as compared to bar stock aluminium and a smooth finish is very difficult to get.

Photo 2 is showing the piston fitted to the conrod.

Photo 3 is a trial fit of the piston in the cylinder with the cylinder fitted to only half of crankcase to see if the conrod clears the surrounding metal. Also I wanted to see how far up the piston goes in the cylinder. I was a bit disappointed because it should be flush with the cylinder liner lip but instead it was sitting 1.2mm lower. Whilst I was fussing about how to get the piston higher it dawned on me that I had on purpose left the platform of the cylinder about 1mm higher than required to reduce the compression *bang*. Westbury had suggested this for an easier starting and more docile engine.


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
You look close now mate ;D
That crank assemble looks great :bow:
Pete


----------



## Charles Lamont

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> What I noticed during this build is that the material for the aluminium castings is very soft as compared to bar stock aluminium and a smooth finish is very difficult to get.



I am finding I have to be careful with the Seagull castings too. My findings so far are: don't use to much top-rake, go slowly (for aluminium), lubricate consistently. I don't have a coolant pump and found my usual system of neat cutting oil applied by washing-up-liquid-bottle-with-a-spout did not work well. So I tried a coating of RTD liquid. This is sticky enough to stay in place throughout the cut, and I have found it gives a good consistent, though not bright, finish. All the flat surfaces get lapped anyway. Other similar tapping compounds might be worth a try. YMMV.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Charles for the tip. Haven't thought of trying tapping compound. If I remember I'll give it a try.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday I made the wrist pin (photo 1). I still need to do two bottons out of soft metal to hold the wrist pin in place but I will make them after I case harden the wrist pin. I need to do some case hardening of some parts I already made but have been putting it off for some time now. I have never done this procedure so not sure how it will end up. I was thinking of getting this compound from Chronos (http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Engineering_Menu_Adhesives_439.html#aCHD3_2e_2e_2e). Has anybody used it?

Also yesterday I made an impromptu ring compressor out of steel tape used for packing and a jubilee clip (photo 2 & 3). Haven't tried it yet so do not know if it will actually work. I will find out when the time comes.

Today I machined the bottom rectangular base of the cylinder. I did not mill it to dimension but decided to do it to the shape of the crankcase cylinder platform so that the sides of the base would be flush to the crankcase. Photo 4 is showing the setup I used. That template I had made was used again. Good thing I made it.


----------



## idahoan

Hi Vince

I have case hardened quite a few small parts using Kasenit powder and have had great results with it. I usually hang the part from a piece of soft mechanics wire (bailing wire, Re-bar tie wire) or what ever you want to call it. Heat the part with a propane torch until it is a nice orange color then dredge it through the powder; then back into the flame and keep it at temp a little longer. Maybe 30 sec. to a minute then quench it in water; watch out for the splatter (I wear a full face shield). 

When you quench your part all the gooey powder will solidify and come off in the water. A light buff with a wire wheel and oil is all that is needed to finish it up. If you do it correctly you should have a glass hard surface with a nice patina.

I would be willing to give the product in the link and try; hopefully it will perform as well as Kasenit.

Your little engine is looking great by the way.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave for the advice.

As it is just a Kasenit replacement and not the original Kasenit, I was wondering if it did the job properly. A quick search on the internet and I did not find any reviews on it.

Vince


----------



## steamer

Actually, I have a 5 pound tub of the Kasenit....bought it years ago.

What is so unsafe about it?

Dave


----------



## Blogwitch

Dave,

The early Kasenit powder contained cyanide, the later non toxic one doesn't.


John


----------



## tvoght

I've read through this build from the beginning. Gosh, this is gonna be a pretty engine.


----------



## vcutajar

tvoght

Welcome to this build log. I hope it's not going to be just a pretty engine but also a runner.

I am making the build log so detailed because when I started it out I could hardly find any info on the Kiwi and only a partial build log. So if somebody in the future decides to make the Kiwi at least they can find a bit more info on how to go about it.

Vince


----------



## steamer

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> tvoght
> 
> Welcome to this build log. I hope it's not going to be just a pretty engine but also a runner.
> 
> I am making the build log so detailed because when I started it out I could hardly find any info on the Kiwi and only a partial build log. So if somebody in the future decides to make the Kiwi at least they can find a bit more info on how to go about it.
> 
> Vince



Thank you!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Finished up the rectangular base of the cylinder. The cylinder is basically complete except for the four tapped holes on the top of the cylinder for the cylinder head.

Yesterday a thought occured to me. What if I need to remove the flywheel? Some might say tap it off but if possible I would like to avoid doing that. The other alternative is a puller. So yestreday I started a search on ebay. I am looking for something like this as I think it supports the flywheel better (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14PC-Heav...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1c27117695). I found a couple of UK sellers that dispatched to the EU but the delivery costs where a bit too much (I guess due to the weight). So today I went to three local toolshops and actually found something similar but they were pretty expensive. So I will keep my eyes open for something less expensive or maybe make my own.


----------



## vcutajar

I was not going to waste a day thinking about the cylinder head and not do anything useful on the engine.

So I thought why not broach the keyway in the cams. I have been putting it off ( even though I have all the necessary equipment ) as it is a new procedure for me. So this evening I bit the bullet and made it.

Photo 1 is showing the 2 & 3 mm broach set I got some weeks ago. I took a piece of aluminium and drilled and reamed a 6mm hole for the broach collar. Photo 2 shows the collar in the cam and aluminium piece. Transferred the setup to the hydraulic press oiled the broach and started going down slowly adding oil as the broach was going down (photo 3). Phew, made it.

The finished product (photo 4). I did not do the second pass with the spacer as the keyway (I think) is deep enough. Next to make the 2mm key.

I did not do the timing gear that sits next to the cam as I will do it when the timing is done on the engine.


----------



## ronkh

Hi Vince,
I'm still following your build and believe this or not, I have just spent the previous hour and a half re-reading it!
Good going mate and am looking forward to seeing it run.

Kind regards,

Ron.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Ron for the support and morale booster.



> and am looking forward to seeing it run.



As am I, as am I.

Vince


----------



## steamer

Hang tough Vince.....Your getting there!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

This evening after work started work on the 2 X 2mm key. I had a piece of steel with a thickness of 2.4 mm and started carving out the key using hacksaw, hand files and the grinder wheel which was turned by hand. (my fingers where too close to use it under power. Well after an hour working on it and getting it close I could not feel my fingertips anymore, so called it a day.

Came here to write this piece but something at the back of my mind was saying - "Go on ebay, Go on ebay". Went on ebay and there it was. A piece of keysteel 2mm square and 300mm long :wall:.

Well you can imagine what happened next. I bought it. No more fingertip bashing.


----------



## steamer

Rof}
And I thought I was the only one who does that!


----------



## vcutajar

Ordered from Hemingways a 10x1mm sparkplug and a couple of tungsten points (not sure if I am going to use these points yet).

A lot of trial setups were experimented to hold the cylinder head casting. Have not decided which one to use yet.


----------



## vcutajar

Haven't been idle these last couple of days. Finally work on the cylinder head has started.

The cylinder head casting (photo 1) has bosses for the mounting holes. They should be on a PCD of 1.5" but they are not exactly there. The distances between the holes should be 26.94mm. The distance along the fins between the holes are 26.94mm but across the fins they are 25.94mm. A little compromise had to be made.

I started off by clamping the head in the vice aligning the fins to the x axis of the table and keeping it level as much as possible (photo 2). I then milled off all the bosses and skimmed a little the fins (photo 3).

Then using the DRO I marked the holes and drilled and partially threaded 4mm the holes (photo 4). I have a habit of putting a screw in a newly made thread so that the hole will not get filled with swarf whilst doing the other ops.


----------



## vcutajar

Photo 1 is showing the top of the head after all ops. I have also marked the centre between the holes just in case.

Next I chucked up a piece of 65mm aluminium stock and partially parted a piece off. In the same setup still using the parting tool I cleaned up the sides of the disk (photo 2). Then I hacksawed the disk off and faced off and cleaned it up (photo 3). I left a mark of the centre on the disk.


----------



## vcutajar

More work done. Starting from the centre of the disk and using the DRO and the same distances between the holes, drilled, reamed (4mm) and countersunk the four holes (photo 1). Memo to self :- why did I take so long to fit the DRO?

Photo 2 is showing the cylinder head bolted to the disk and photo 2 the whole assembly in the 3 jaw chuck. The bottom of the cylinder head was faced off to dimension (photo 4).

p.s. I do not know why, but I sort of have a bad feeling about this casting, which I did not have when working on the other castings. Keeping my finger crossed.


----------



## Charles Lamont

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> Yesterday a thought occured to me. What if I need to remove the flywheel? Some might say tap it off but if possible I would like to avoid doing that. The other alternative is a puller.



My Seagull flywheel, http://www.charleslamont.me.uk/Seagull/drive_coupling.html has three tapped holes for a flexible drive coupling I have made. The studs have to come out to get the flywheel nut off, and then 5BA screws a simple flat plate with three holes in it provide a perfectly satisfactory puller.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Charles for the idea.

Great site you have there on the Seagull build.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

More work on the cylinder head. Today decided to do the combustion chamber. Is that the correct terminology in I.C. engines? I know it's called that in turbine engines.

Marked out the two diameters I needed (photo 1) and milled it out first with a 15mm slot drill and then with a 20mm endmill (photo 2). Then continued with a boring bar (photo 3).

Using the same boring bar I turned the shallow groove to fit the cylinder liner lip. I actually used the cylinder liner lip as a gauge. Depth was adjusted just to leave a hairline space between the cylinder and the cylinder head (photo 4).

I left a centre mark in the combustion chamber just in case I need it later on.


----------



## vcutajar

Machined a fin from solid in the bottom of the cylinder head. Used the same parting tool I had used when I did the fins in the cylinder.

The engine is starting to take shape.


----------



## vcutajar

Cleaned up the sides of the cylinder head. Used the centre mark I left on the top of the head as my datum. I first did one side and then the other side.


----------



## steamer

That head is looking awesome Vince.  That would seem not that far away..... I'm watching!
 :bow: :bow:
Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave. Still a lot of work to be done on the head. I think you will finish your Southbend before I finish my Kiwi. ;D

Vince


----------



## steamer

Rof}

Ah a race to the finish! at blistering pace !

 :

Don't worry Vince.....we"ll both get there!
 :bow:

Dave


----------



## idahoan

Vince

The Kiwi is really starting to take shape now; the head looks nice sitting on the engine. I like the way you fixtured it in the lathe to machine the combustion chamber and related surfaces.

Keep up the great work.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Not much done the last couple of days. The temperature here is starting to build up (30 deg. C) and had to switch on the fan in the shop. That also means that the silly ..........oops.........busy season has started at work. Progress will be relatively slower.

Made another fixture for the cylinder head. Similar to the previous round one, but this is rectangular (photo 1). I drilled and counterbored the holes around the centre mark (barely visible) of the rectangle. Now I need to buy some allen head bolts for this fixture. The ones I have are either too short or too long. Maybe tommorrow after work. 

I also changed the 4mm tapped holes in the head to 4mm clearance holes. I screwed in the 4mm tap in the threaded hole clamped the tap in the drill chuck and clamped the head to the mill table. This to align the spindle to the tapped hole (photo 2).


----------



## vcutajar

A little progress on the cylinder head. With the head bolted in the rectangular fixture, I clamped it in the vise and using the centre mark I left on the head and the DRO I marked the holes for the valve guides and the rocker arm pillar (photo 1). I also marked for the port holes in the flanges (photo 2).

Drilled and reamed 5mm the valve guide holes and also drilled and tapped 6mm fine the hole for the rocker pillar (photo 3).

Now I need to do the port holes but waiting for a long reach 8mm ball nose cutter.


----------



## vcutajar

Also today I received the 2mm square keysteel (photo 1). It was nicely packed in a black plastic tube.

Cut a piece to size with a dremel. Found out I needed to make the groove in the shaft deeper. Decided to try and make it deeper and if that did not work out I would do a new shaft. Deepening the groove worked and photo 2 shows the cam on the shaft with the key. I noted that for some strange reason, that if I insert the cam in one direction it goes in easily and if I try it from the opposite side it is stiff to slide in. A little persuasion with a plastic hammer was needed.


----------



## vcutajar

Nothing new since my last post.

Today I received the spark plug and tungsten points from Hemingway. I have a couple of questions about the spark plug. What gap should I set in the plug? Also, the spark plug gap, does it have to protrude in the combustion chamber?

I have been thinking about the port flanges and was thinking of doing a brass template to make it easier to mark and machine the head flanges. Then I might then use the brass template as the exhaust flange. The fixing holes for the flanges should be 6BA and for me that's close enough to make them 2.5mm. So this morning I went shopping for a 2.5mm tap set but could only find a machine tap. Got it. Then I went shopping for 2.5mm bolts. Big problem. Can't find them here. There is still one place which might have them but did not have time to check. If I still can't find them then only option is to get them from the UK. They are going to be the most expensive bolts to date.


----------



## ShedBoy

Hi Vince the engine is looking great. I source alot of my small fasteners from thi place

http://stores.ebay.com.au/spalding-nut-and-bolt?_rdc=1

It is cheaper to get them from the UK sent over than it is to buy them here in OZ. Crazy

Brock


----------



## vcutajar

Well the silly season is officially open.

Today I was going to continue the local search for 2.5mm bolts for the flanges. I had decided that if I cannot find 2.5mm I might try for 2mm bolts. Just before going out I had another look at my BA conversion chart and to my surprise I noticed that the outer diameter of 6BA is 2.8mm which is closer to 3mm than 2.5mm. What must have happened is that by mistake I looked at the tapping size for 6BA which is 2.3mm.

During the weekend I received the long reach 8mm ball nose mill (photo 1). So I started work on the port holes. Started with the horizontal holes. Clamped the head in the vise. Centre drilled and drilled 6 and 7.5mm. Then reamed 8mm and then used the new ball nose mill to give it a radius at the bottom of the hole. For all these operations I used a collet holder instead of the drill chuck. Photo 2 showing one of the finished holes.

I also faced off the flanges to the desired size.


----------



## vcutajar

Bolted the head to the rectangular fixture upside down. Located one of the valve holes with a 5mm silver steel in a collet. Clamped the fixture to the mill table (photo 1). Drilled 7.5mm and the reamed 8mm (photo 2). Using the new 8mm ball nose radiused the bottom to match the other horizontal hole (photo 3).

For the valve seat I used a countersink tool (photo 4).

Next time I will do the other hole.


----------



## vcutajar

Slow progress but at least some progress.

Finished the other hole and valve seat (photo 1).

Also started work on the flange template made out of brass (photo 2).


----------



## steamer

That looks great from here Vince! Nice finish on the head and ports.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave.

Finished the flange template (photo 1) and might actually use it as the exhaust flange. All I need to do is silver solder a short piece of brass pipe to it. We'll see.

Photo 2 is depicting the brass flange just held in place to the head. Now I need to drill and tap 3mm the head flanges.

Also, if you look close enough, there is an imperfection in the head casting. There is a depression in the casting (just behind the cylinder head flange) which will not affect the operation of the engine but is starting to bother me aesthetically. Is there any way I can fix it? Like filling it in with something and then file it off. The head is going to be left bare metal (aluminium). Is there something which approximates the colour of aluminium which can be used as a filler?


----------



## vcutajar

Phew, it's hot here. Been +35 deg C for the last three days and they are saying it might go up to 40 tomorrow. And we just started summer. Not very conducive to do anything except sitting down in a cool spot.

Today I managed to do the spark plug hole.

Set the head up in the vice at 60 deg (photo 1). With this setup I can see where the drill is coming out in the combustion chamber. I did not follow Westbury's method because I could not picture it and it involved trial and error. Milled flat the spark plug face (photo 2). Picked up the centre of the head from the mark I had left and marked the line on the freshly milled face (photo 3). Did not find a way to mark the other line to get the centre of the hole. So I put a 14mm endmill in the chuck and eyeballed it. Drilled the hole in steps of 1mm all the time checking the bottom of the head. At 7mm decided to move the x axis 0.1mm to one side and used an 8mm slot drill to continue. Drilled 9mm and then tapped 10 x 1mm. Did not go right through with the taps.


----------



## vcutajar

Some photos of the spark plug in the head. I removed the washer that comes with the spark plug so that it could go in deeper. Figured that the plug tightened on soft aluminium will be a good seal. We'll see.

I hope that the spark plug gap is protruding enough in the combustion chamber?


----------



## metalmad

looking good Buddy :bow:
Pete


----------



## steamer

Looking good Vince.....your getting close now!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Pete and Dave for the encouragement. I needed that.

Vince


----------



## Mainer

Nice job, Vince! 

I think you'll be fine with the spark plug. Just be sure it's not out so far the piston hits it.


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Steve

Glad to hear from you.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Carved up one of the head flanges. I could have left it as is and avoid all the work but something deep down inside convinced me to do it.

First, using the brass template I marked out the head flange (photo 1). Clamped the head in the vice and started milling to the marks (photo 2).

Photo 3 and 4 are showing the flange finished. Now to do the other one.


----------



## ProdEng

Looks a lot neater Vince, well worth the effort.

Jan


----------



## tvoght

Vince,
Letting out that flange is a little extra step that will make that engine a true beauty. Glad you listened to the deep down voices.

--Tim


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Jan and Tim

It took the whole morning to do it but as you said it was worth it. The other one should take less time to do. Also the other one has the casting defect that I am trying to avoid looking at.

Vince


----------



## ozzie46

Doing a fine job on this. Keep up the good work. :bow: :bow:

 Ron


----------



## steamer

That was worth the trip! :bow:

Dave


----------



## camm-1

Nice work :bow:


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday finished the other head flange. It took less than half the time to do the first one.

I think all machining of the head is complete and today after work decided to do a general clean up of the head especially between the fins. These castings are coated with a light grey paint so I thought how about using a paint remover. I tried a small area first and it seemed to be working. So using a small stiff brush I went through all the fins. After a couple of applications of the stripper the paint started coming off with the brush. Washed it under running water and gave it a good clean in the ultrasonic cleaner using water and liquid detergent (photo 2). I think I will use this same method on the crankcase.

I am quiet happy with the result (photo 3). Also the casting defect is less noticeable but still there. I think I am going to leave it as it is, besides, I do not know how to fix it.

Next I will go over the head with fine sand paper to remove the machining marks.


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Vince,
Very nice work on the head. It's always the extra work on the details that make the difference. In the course of a long term project the extra few hours spent on the details pay off with an outstanding model.
gbritnell


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks George

Appreciate your input.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

What I've been dreading since the beginning of this build happened yesterday.

I got that sinking "OMG I've ruined the casting" feeling.

Yesterday I decided to drill and tap the four mounting holes in the top of the cylinder. I used the cylinder head holes as a template and used the usual homemade transfer punch to mark the top of the cylinder. Drilled the first blind hole 7.5mm deep and started tapping 4mm. Started with the tap in the drill chuck and turning it by hand to get it straight then continued by hand with a tap wrench so that I can feel when I reach the bottom of the hole. All of a sudden the tap felt loose in the hole and that's when I got that dreaded feeling. I must have stripped the thread.

After the shock passed I removed carefully the tap and inspecting the hole with a magnifying glass I could still see the thread. Blood started circulating again. I was using the first taper tap. So I continued tapping using the other two taps. Used a 4mm bolt in the hole and it screwed in nicely. So I guess I might have saved the hole. I did not do anything else after that shock.

Today I continued with the other three holes without a hitch.

Used 4mm threaded rod as the studs. Cut the studs in situ with a dremel cutting disk (photo 1) so that they would be of the same height. Photo 2 is the result after the studs were cut and trimmed.


----------



## arnoldb

Nice progress Vince.

 Thm: Good to hear the casting's OK after the tapping episode.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## steamer

I HATE that feeling!

Good save!

Dave


----------



## rhitee93

Whew!


----------



## vcutajar

You can say that again Brian.

Thanks Brian, Arnold and Dave. I think I have 5 items remaining to complete the main items of the engine, two valve guides, two valves and a rocker pillar. Then the ignition, carb and lube reservoir.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Started work on the rocker arm pillar.

Used the piece of 3/8" square stock that came with the kit. Centred it in the 4 jaw chuck with a DTI (photo 1) and turned and tapped one end 6mm fine (photo 2). Then with a thin parting tool I faced the shoulder by trial and error till when it was screwed tight in the cylinder head, one face was parallel to the valve guide holes (photo 3). Then I marked the faces were I need to drill the hole for the rocker arm shafts and calculated how high the hole should be from the bottom of the rocker pillar. Marked where the hole should come. Used a 1-2-3 block to do this (photo 4).


----------



## vcutajar

I then drilled and tapped the hole 3mm and just for fun fitted the rocker arm pillar to the head and the rocker arms to the pillar to see how they look. Now to make the pillar pretty and cut it to length.


----------



## steamer

Nice one Vince...certainly looking the part!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Finished the rocker arm pillar.

Gave the column a 5 deg taper in the 4 jaw chuck (photo 1). Then changed to a 3 jaw chuck. Held the pillar from the threaded end to machine the top part. Used a split aluminium collet between the threads and the chuck which can be seen in photo 2).

Photo 3 & 4 are the fully assembled rocker mechanism on the cylinder head.


----------



## ProdEng

Valve gear is looking good Vince, can't be too much left to do now.

Jan


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave and Jan for looking.

Been planning how to do the valves and also the valve guides. I will be using a collet holder in the lathe to work on these items. Problem is that the material, stainless for the valves and phosphor bronze for the guides, that came with the kit, are in imperial diameters. I only have metric collets and although they can be compressed by 1mm, I try to avoid that.

So this morning went shopping for some 304 SS in 10mm diameter and 8mm diameter phosphor bronze. Managed to find he stainless but not the bronze. Smallest I found was 12mm and got some of that.

Before I remove the three jaw chuck I thought I would finish off the valve collars and collets.


----------



## tvoght

Vince,
 You're so close. I'm on the edge of my seat. I'm hoping you get to those valves very soon, and that your pictures are good. I'll be watching very closely.

--Tim


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Tim

For sure this week work will start on the valves but they will be the last items to be done.

This evening located the tool that I will use to cut the groove in the stem. Did a trial cut in 3mm mild steel to check the dimension of the groove. 0.9mm which is close enough.

Did the two valve collets. Fiddly little things. Used a piece of 5mm mild steel. Faced it off and drilled a 2mm hole about 6mm deep. Transferred the piece to the milling vice and after locating the hole under the spindle, used a 2.5mm slot drill to open it up. Then using the y axis, milled the slot (photo 1). Transferred the piece back to the lathe and parted off two collets. After cleaning them up, did a trial fit in the groove I made previously.


----------



## idahoan

I'm still following along Vince,

The work on the head is just great; it really looks nice.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

This evening did the two valve collars. Actually three of them. One of the first two got chewed up in the lathe chuck so I made another one.

I think I have found a mistake in the drawings. Photo 1 is showing the drawing for the valve collar. If the total length of the collar is 5/32" and the lip is 3/32" then the body is 1/16" as per drawing but I think the lip should be 1/16" and the body should be 3/32".

Machined a 10mm BMS to 8.5mm and then to 5mm (photo 2) and then drilled and reamed 3mm (photo 3) and then parted off. Did the same for the other one.

Then clamped the collar to the chuck and counterbored 5mm for the valve collet.

Photo 4 shows the three valve collars. One of them with the collet and the stem fitted.


----------



## arnoldb

On the fiddly bits now Vince ;D - Good going!



> I think I have found a mistake in the drawings. Photo 1 is showing the drawing for the valve collar. If the total length of the collar is 5/32" and the lip is 3/32" then the body is 1/16" as per drawing but I think the lip should be 1/16" and the body should be 3/32".


I agree with your thinking; even the physical plan supports that.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave and Arnold for the support.

Vince


----------



## steamer

I'm watching too Vince!  The valves are about the same size as the Wallaby's

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave (Steamer) for your continued support.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Progress has been slow. Managed to finish the two valve guides. Nothing special just turning operations. 

I started with the phosphor bronze I bought locally and as the OD was a bit rough, I cleaned it up with the three jaw chuck. Then cut two pieces for the blanks (photo 1). Replaced the three jaw chuck with a collet holder and turned the side that needs to be pressed in the cylinder head. With the same setup drilled and reamed 3mm the part (photo 2).

Reversed the part and machined the other side. There were no dimensions on the plans how thick the lip is. Also there is a shallow taper but no angle indications. So I improvised. Made the lip 2mm wide and the taper of 2 degrees (photo 3).

Photo 4 depicts the finished valve guides.


----------



## vcutajar

During the last two days I have been working on and off on the two valves for the Kiwi. I would like to thank George for showing me how to do them. :bow: :bow: :bow:

He gave me a descriptive run through here: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=19103.0 
and also in radial engine build (page 10) http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=15942.135

I am using 304 stainless for the valves and as long as the tool is sharp I did not find any problems during machining. Hopefully tomorrow they will be finished and I will post some photos.


----------



## vcutajar

Finished the two valves today. They are nice and pretty, but are they functional? Time will tell. I am just attaching some photos of the valve machining but no descriptions as I followed George's instructions.


----------



## vcutajar

And one last shot. Next to press the valve guides in the cylinder head. I will try the shink method first.


----------



## arnoldb

The valves DO look nice Vince :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Arnold

When I did a similar part having a thin long stem in a previous build (not an engine), I fabricated the part. This time I wanted to do it from solid and with George's help I managed to do a decent job of it.

Vince


----------



## tvoght

Vince, 
You and I are making valves at the same time. I must say that one you hold in your hand is beautiful! Keep up the good work.

--Tim


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Tim

I left the stem 0.05mm oversize and used sandpaper to get it down to size using the valve guide as a gauge. This way I removed all the machining marks.

Vince


----------



## steamer

I like the valves Vince! I really like the tool you made to turn them with!

 :bow:

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave

I did not make that HSS tool but bought it a couple of years ago from the UK. I use it on everything and I like it so much that I got another one as a spare.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday I tried to shrink fit the valve guides into the cylinder head but after I singed my fingertips a couple of times I gave up. I don't need this aggro.

So today I pressed them into the head but before doing that I made a tool to make sure that they are pressed in straight. Photo 1 is showing the tool. I indicated the valve guide hole under the mill spindle. Then I clamped the thick part of the tool in a collet and put the valve guide in the stem of the tool. Pressed the valve guide in the head with the quill.

Photo 2 is showing both valve guides in the head. Photo 3 is showing the valves installed with the springs and photo 4 the bottom of the head with the valves.


----------



## vcutajar

Could not resist, so fixed the rocker arms to the head to see how they look (photo 1).

Also broached the timing gear that sits next to the cams.

Only thing that remains are the pushrods and the engine is complete. It still won't run because I still need to do the carb, ignition mechanism and the oil reservoir.


----------



## idahoan

Looking good Vince!

Did you need to index the cam gear to the cam shaft?
Or is there some way to adjust for this; although I'm not sure what that would be.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Dave

Infact that is the reason I took so long to do it. The instructions were not very clear about it. Finally I decided that there is no need to index this gear but I will be indexing the gear on the cranckshaft that will mesh with this gear. The gear on the crankshaft still needs to be pinned to the shaft. I do not know if this makes any sense.

Vince


----------



## ProdEng

Small adjustments to the cam timing can be made by using a key with a step in it allowing you to offset the gear from the shaft. Years ago you used to be able to buy them for British motorcycle engines.

Jan


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Vince,
It's getting close now. Everything looks great. Usually unless the pitch of the gears is too coarse just by indexing a tooth one way or the other will get you in time or like was mentioned an offset key will fine tune it. 
gbritnell


----------



## steamer

That's looking Stellar Vince! Great Job! :bow:
Karma from me!
Dave


----------



## metalmad

Hi Vince
Thats looking great Mate
getting closer ;D
Pete


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Gents for the comments.

Honestly I do not know what an offset key is, but I am sure the Kiwi does not have it. From my limited knowledge it looks like it is fixed timing. Once you get the timing right, you pin the gear to the crankshaft.

Today I did the pushrods but I made a boo-boo on one of them. It's a little short. So I ordered a piece of 3/32" silver steel from the UK to remake it. I thought about using 3mm instead but it just does not look right.


----------



## vcutajar

Well after yesterdays turmoil about the new forum, I decided to continue with my build log here so that if anybody in the future would be looking for a Kiwi build log, at least they will find a complete log and not an unfinished one.

I haven't done a lot in the last couple of days. I assembled the engine and put it on a temporary fibre-board base. I also fitted the flywheel now that I have a brand new puller set from Amazon. This is where I found that the flywheel when tightened to the crankshaft will interfere with one of the crankcase webs (photo 1). Pulled the flywheel off and with a Dremel sanding drum cleaned up the offending web (photo 2).

Now I am waiting for the silver steel I ordered from the UK to arrive so that I can remake the short pushrod.


----------



## arnoldb

Looking good there Vince 

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## vcutajar

I was going to start work on the carb but decided instead to work on the ignition mechanism.

I will try to make it like the original 1960 ignition using contact points.  Obviously the original Delco-Remy points are obsolete but I think I might have found an equivalent from the States (a Delco D111).  I have already ordered it and will see if it is suitable when it arrives.

In the meantime I have done the ignition cam.  Started from a piece of 0.5" round stock that came with the kit and turned the cam blank and drilled and reamed it 5mm (photo 1).  I then clamped it eccentrically in the 4 jaw chuck (photo 2) and turned the cam (photo 3).  I then drilled and tapped 3mm for the grub screw and then parted off the cam (photo 4).


----------



## ProdEng

Vince I just had a look at the drawings for the carb and it looks an interesting challenge.  The Kiwi is a great looking engine, and despite the fact that my intention is to stick with steam, your build is tempting me to follow in your footsteps  When I was a teenager I spent a fair bit of time working on pre-war British bikes, many with exposed valve gear.  The Kiwi has a strong nostalgia factor as does the whole machining process for me.

Jan


----------



## vcutajar

> I just had a look at the drawings for the carb and it looks an interesting challenge


 
Jan, I suppose that is the reason I have not started on the carb yet 

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Started work on the ingition bracket casting (photo 1).  Faced off the backside (photo 2) and then the front side.  Also drilled and reamed the hole which will fit on the timing cover camshaft bush (photo 3).


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday received the contact points and they sent me an extra one for free (they must want to get rid of them).  I will be using the arm only and I will also try to remove the tungsten tip from the other part and use it also (photo 1).  I think the arm will work.  Looks like it is the correct size.

Continued work on the ignition bracket carving it to size.  Slit the hole (photo 2) and drilled and tapped for the 3mm screw that will tighten the bracket on the camshaft bush.  Photo 3 is depicting the bracket on the camshaft bush.


----------



## dsquire

vcutajar said:


> Well after yesterdays turmoil about the new forum, I decided to continue with my build log here so that if anybody in the future would be looking for a Kiwi build log, at least they will find a complete log and not an unfinished one.
> 
> I haven't done a lot in the last couple of days. I assembled the engine and put it on a temporary fibre-board base. I also fitted the flywheel now that I have a brand new puller set from Amazon. This is where I found that the flywheel when tightened to the crankshaft will interfere with one of the crankcase webs (photo 1). Pulled the flywheel off and with a Dremel sanding drum cleaned up the offending web (photo 2).
> 
> Now I am waiting for the silver steel I ordered from the UK to arrive so that I can remake the short pushrod.


 
vcutajar






for continuing your thread on HMEM. I am sure the members will appreciate it as well and will respect you for it. I would hope that with any future projects you would also allow HMEM to host them and make them available to members around the world.

Cheers 

Don


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Don for checking in.

If I manage to get the Kiwi to run I think a two cylinder job would fit the ticket.  For sure not a casting.  But that's still in the distant future.  We'll see.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Progress in the last three days has been painfully slow. Wife and kids decided to go for a short holiday abroad and I, apart from work, have been doing the housework and babysitting the cats. Tomorrow I should be picking them up and life comes back to normal. Still I managed to slip in the workshop and do some things.

Drilled and tapped 4mm the bracket for the other contact point (photo 1). Managed to remove the other contact point so that I can reuse it on the Kiwi. Cut a piece from a long 4mm brass screw I had and silver soldered it to the contact point (photo 2). I used an old drill chuck to hold the brass thread and the contact point on a piece of brass. I used a 1.2mm tip in the torch for the soldering.

As the contact point was about 5mm diameter I put the brass thread with the newly soldered contact point in the lathe and using a green grinding wheel in the Dremel, I ground down the contact point (photo 3). At the moment the brass thread and contact point are immersed in a little white vinegar to clean it up.


----------



## vcutajar

Did the pivot screw for the contact point arm. Simple turning and tapping operation. To cut the groove in the screw head (photo 1) I used a 1mm end mill. Photo 2 showing the finished screw. Did some more carving in the bracket. I am not following the plan dimensions as the contact point arm is different. Infact I am adjusting the dimensions on the fly to cater for this contact point arm.


----------



## idahoan

Hi Vince

I'm still following along here; you are making great progress on your engine!

Thanks for posting the updates; my project (the Pacific) has kind of stalled due to lack of time on my part. Hopefully I will be able to make some more progress in the next week or two.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave for your continued support.  Appreciate it.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Some more progress on the timing bracket.  Drilled and reamed 5mm the hole where the leaf spring of the contact arm is fixed (photo 1).  This spring has to be insulated from the bracket.  So next done were a couple of tefnol bushes.  The tefnol came with the kit.  Simple turning and drilling operation.  Photo 2 showing both bushes.  Photo 3 showing the bushes fitted to the bracket.  Photo 4 is showing the contact arm fitted to the bracket and photo 5 the contact arm fitted to the timing cover.

This basically makes the bracket casting complete.  I still need to clean it up which hopefully I will do this weekend.  I also need to buy some 4mm brass screws, nuts and washers as I have finished them.


----------



## ProdEng

Timing bracket looks good Vince.  Carb next?


----------



## vcutajar

Not sure Jan.  Either that or the oil reservoir.  Eventually I need to do the carb.

Vince


----------



## rhitee93

This is looking good Vince!  I've been following this build in the shadows since before I joined the forum


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Brian

Thanks for checking in.

Vince


----------



## Don1966

Hi Vince, I have never built an IC so can not comment on your engine other then your craftmanship which is great. Keep up the beautiful work. I will follow till you complete.

Don


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Don

Thanks for looking in.



> I have never built an IC


 
Same here.  Actually this is my first ever model engine and as such the end result is still uncertain.  Wish me luck.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

I cleaned up the ignition bracket and used a longer 4mm brass screw to hold the contact point arm leaf spring. Now I need to get hold of a 12V ignition coil and condensor to see if I can make the spark plug work with the ignition bracket. I need to find a wiring diagram for the ignition, so if somebody out there has one handy could you please be so kind and post it.

Decided to next work on the oil reservoir (I chickened out of making the carb as yet). It mainly consists of a transperant plastic tube and brass endcaps and fittings. For the plastic tube I thought of using the body of a 10ml plastic syringe (photo 1). It is wider than what I need but I will adjust the dimensions of the endcaps accordingly. I managed to remove the black graduations (photo 2) with nail polish remover that I surruptitiously "borrowed".


----------



## rhitee93

vcutajar said:


> Hi Don
> 
> Actually this is my first ever model engine...
> 
> Vince



Ok, why don't you throw some sand in our faces while you are at it


----------



## vcutajar

Today I started work on the oil reservoir.  I need to cut the body of the syringe to a specified lenght but did not want to use a hacksaw.   So I devised a setup using a Stanley knife blade (sorry but I do not know what they call them in the States).  Using a toolmaker's clamp I clamped the blade to the toolpost of the lathe as shown in photo 1.  Did a trial cut and it worked nicely.

Photo 2 is showing the plastic tube cut to lenght.


----------



## SilverSanJuan

Nice work.  Clever idea.

Todd


----------



## IanR

Here's a wiring diagram. The Kiwi has been as interesting a read as that other famous Maltese bird.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Todd and Ian for your kind comments.  Also thanks Ian for the wiring diagram.  I am assuming that the earth in the diagram is the metal body of the engine.  Also I am thinking of using a 12V battery and a 12V coil.  I suspect it is overkill but it easier to find 12V components.  What do you think?

Vince


----------



## rhitee93

Vince,

you are correct.  In this case, earth/ground will be your machine frame.  Using a 12V battery with the proper 12V coil and Condenser is perfectly fine.

I'm looking forward toi seeing this one run


----------



## vcutajar

Me too Brian, me too.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Did some more work on the reservoir. Made the 5mm centre tube with threads on each end (photo 1). There were no dimensions for the inside diameter so I made it 2.5mm for now. I haven't cross drilled for the oil and air hole as yet.

Did also the end caps. As they are the same I decided to make them together from the same bar stock. Using 18mm bar stock I marked and partially parted the end caps. Drilled and tapped 5mm and then plunged a 16mm endmill 1.5mm deep (photo 2). Opened up to desired ID with a boring tool (photo 3). Parted off the first end cap and did the same procedure for the second end cap.

Photo 4 is showing both finished end caps and photo 5 the end caps fitted to the plastic tube. Filled the reservoir with water to see if it leaks (photo 6). I was surprised to find that it did not leak at all but left it like that with the water to see if it leaks in the long run.


----------



## Don1966

Great job Vince, I am still following with interest. 

Don


----------



## metalmad

Those oilers look just the ticket Buddy
She is really coming along 
Pete


----------



## idahoan

Great progress Vince,

Thanks for the updates.

Dave


----------



## ProdEng

Vince, you are nearly there!  I can tell you are really looking forward to starting the carb, a project in its' own


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks guys for the kind comments.  I'll keep slogging at it until it is finished and yes Jan I am really looking forward to do the carb .

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Some more progress on the reservoir.  First checked if after 24 hours the reservoir leaked.  Not a drop in sight which augurs well.

I took a commercial 5mm brass nut and holding in a piece to 5mm BMS threaded at one end, I machined it as seen in photo 1.

Next started work on the dust cover.  With a piece of 20mm brass stock, I turned it down to 19mm and knurled it (photo 2).  I then drilled a 6.5 mm hole so that the nut I previously made will fit in it.  Then using an 18mm endmill I plunge cut the face to a depth of 1.5mm (photo 3).  Parted it off and cleaned it up and fitted it to the top of the reservoir (photo 4).

I still need to drill a hole through the dust cover and the top end cap so that the reservoir can be filled and once filled the dust cover is turned to cover the fill hole.


----------



## vcutajar

Started work on the 90 degree oil outlet connection and used a piece of scrap brass (photo 1) to carve it out.  Brought it down to a rectangular 8 x 10.5 x 16mm.  Ideally I would have used a 4 jaw chuck for the machining but the thing is so small and fiddly to set up in the 4 jaw chuck that I decided to use the rotary table on the milling machine.  I first did the nipple on which the plastic pipe will fit.  Drilled 1.5mm and then shaped the nipple with an endmill (photo 2).  Rounded off the top of the nipple with a Dremel grinding stone (photo 3) and cut 3 grooves with a Dremel cutoff disk (photo 4).  Photo 5 showing the nipple finished.


----------



## vcutajar

This evening gave the oil outlet connection another push and managed to finish it.  Drilled and tapped 5mm and then drilled a 1mm hole to break through the other 1.5mm hole.  Then milled round to a diameter of 6.5mm (photo 1).

Photo 2 is showing the finished connection and photo 3 is the oil reservoir with the current finished parts.  I still need to do the needle valve and the knob.


----------



## rhitee93

Great attention to detail Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Brian.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Finally finished the oil reservoir.  I made the knob for the needle valve (photo 1).  For the needle valve I am actually going to use a needle.  It is long and 1.2mm diameter (photo 2).  It's not a sewing needle but used for other things.  I am sure it has a specific name in English but do not know what it is.  I sweated the top part of the needle with soft solder and then soft soldered it to the knob and cleaned up the excess needle sticking out of the knob (photo 3).

Drilled the oil holes and air holes 1.5mm through the centre tube (photo 4).  Assembled the reservoir and filled with water to check for leaks and also the operation of the needle valve (photo 5).  Seems everything is working as it should but I will leave 24 hours with water to make sure.

Now I need to make a bracket or something for the reservoir.


----------



## vcutajar

Haven't done anything these last couple of days.  Today I cobbled up a simple bracket for the oil reservoir.  Note to myself :  distance between fixing holes is 10mm.


----------



## vcutajar

I had planned for this weekend that I get myself an ignition coil and condensor and hook them up to the timing bracket and sparkplug and see if I could produce a spark. Well nothing of this actually happened.

Instead I decided to make a d-bit which I intend to use on the carb to form the venturi. John (Bogstandard) had made a good article on making d-bits some time ago. Unfortunately only the text remains of that article as the photos are gone. So I made it from memory. I made it from 8mm silver steel and hardened only. It worked out well and a trial cut on a piece of brass worked well. The following photos show the manufacture of the d-bit and the trial cut.

Now I need to make a small boring tool from 6mm HSS.


----------



## vcutajar

This evening I made the 6mm boring tool.  Haven't tested it but I suspect it will do a fine job.


----------



## ProdEng

I enjoy making small tools, you get exactly the size and shape you need rather than the compromise of something ready made.


----------



## vcutajar

Well Jan, this week I should start work on the carb.  Wish me luck.

Vince


----------



## ProdEng

Good luck Vince  When making little bits I always use a magnifier, it's difficult to machine it if you can't see it.  Sherline sell a microscope for their lathe and mill but I don't need one just yet.


----------



## vcutajar

Yes Jan, I have that habit of using a magnifier for everything that I do.  Infact I would feel lost with out it.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Well this morning I finally started work on the carb casting.  I have been playing around with it for the last two months and I just could not put it off any longer.  I have been making mental notes regarding work holding and casting dimensions (which are all over the place).

So started work on making the hole for the throttle body.  I clamped the casting by the small boss on the other side of the body and drilled from 5mm to 10mm in 1mm increments and then first using an 11mm and then a 12mm slot drill finished the hole (photo 1).  This should be 12.7mm according to the plans but left it ar 12mm due to not enough material on the casting.  I could have gone to 12.5mm but did not want to risk it.

Then using the boring tool I made yesterday I faced off the bottom of this hole.  I also faced off the top of the hole with the same tool (photo 2).  As you can see it is a bit off centre.  Using a thin parting off tool I removed the excess material so that the hole will not look skewed (photo 3).  I then drilled and reamed 5mm the hole through the boss.  I did not do it before so as not to weaken the boss.

Photo 4 & 5 is the progress so far.

Now I need to do the throttle body.  Ideally I should make it in bronze but do not have the required material for it.  So I either have to go out and buy some phosphor bronze or do it in brass.  Haven't decided yet.


----------



## vcutajar

Managed to get some phosphor bronze for the throttle body.  I needed 16mm diameter but could only find 22mm.  What a waste.

First drilled and tapped 3mm and then formed the spigot (photo 1).  Then turned the throttle body (photo 2).  I then used this partial throttle body as a mandrel for the carb body (photo 3).  Cleaned up the other side of the carb body but at the end I had to remove the 3mm bolt holding the carb body to the mandrel.  I used nylon tie wraps to hold the body to the mandrel (photo 4) and faced off the seat of the bolt.  Photo 5 is the progress so far.


----------



## rhitee93

Clever to use the part as a mandrel.  I'm not sure I would have thought of that Thm:


----------



## ProdEng

That carb is a bit of a beast Vince, an awkward shape and lots of odd angles.  I have a copy of the drawing in front of me else I wouldn't know what it was!  Are you going to make the float chamber to go with it?


----------



## vcutajar

Jan

I am not sure about the float chamber yet.  I would love to do it also but the aluminium casting is not really promising.  I have measured it up a little and if I use the casting it would end up with a smaller diameter.  Otherwise I will do it from barstock.  Haven't decided yet.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Managed to do some more work on the carb.  What was previously used as a mandrel was parted off and finished as the throttle body (photo 1).  A shallow slot was milled to accomodate the handle (photo 2).  This is not in the plans but I thought I would do it to give more support to the handle.

Next a thin (2mm) disk was parted off from the same material as the throttle body (photo 3).  This was further machined to make the handle (photo 4).  Photo 5 is a setup photo showing the handle and the throttle body.  The handle is not fixed yet.


----------



## vcutajar

Using the casting chucking stub, the body of the carb was chucked up trying to keep the centre of the bore in the middle as much as possible. First both sides of the carb mounting flange were faced off (photo 1).

Next the drilling operation of the carb bore had to be done but before that a big decision had to be taken. Westbury states that if should be a maximum of 0.25" (6.35mm) diameter but then he says that for moderate speed and maximum flexibility in control, the bore can be reduced to 3/16" (4.76mm).

So I decided to do the bore 5mm. With the throttle body fixed in place, drilled and reamed for 5mm (photo 2) but did not go all the way to the chucking stub. I did not want to decrease the strenght of the stub for the next machining operation. Using the previously made taper d-bit the venturi of the carb was machined (photo 3). As you can see in the photo a piece of the d-bit chipped off. I guess it was too hard. Also a sizeable burr was produced on the casting. This was cleaned up and then the rest of the 5mm bore was drilled and reamed.

The last photo is the progress so far. I have left the carb in the chuck just in case I decide to open the bore up to 5.5 or 6mm. What do you people think? Should I increase the size of the bore?


----------



## Charles Lamont

I nearly asked about the reamer when you said 'hardened only'. Mild tempering will greatly increase the toughness of carbon steel tools without significantly reducing the hardness. I often heat until I can just detect a colour change, which puts the temper somewhere in the region of  220 C.


----------



## Mainer

Looking good, Vince! You may yet inspire me to get off my duff and get my Kiwi finished!


----------



## ProdEng

Vince, I would be inclined to leave the bore at 5mm.  Easy starting and good slow running are a good trade for top end performane.  If you are unhappy later, you can always open the bore up but putting metal back on is a bit more of a problem


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Steve. Long time no see. Would love to see your water cooled Kiwi when you finish it.

Charles, you are absolutely right. Thm: Lesson learnt - do not skip steps. I assumed that as the casting material was relatively soft I could get away with it. Problem is I forgot that I had changed the throttle body material from brass to phosphor bronze. :redface2: That is where the tool started to chip.

Jan I tend to agree with you.


----------



## vcutajar

Today the decision was taken to leave the carb bore at 5mm. The carb has been sitting in the chuck for the last couple of days in case I decided to open up the bore.

A mandrel was fashioned to the taper and bore of the chuck (photo 1). The carb was fiited on the mandrel and lightly tapped in with a plastic hammer (photo 2). I hope I can remove it later on.

Using a live centre the inlet O.D. was machined (photo 3). Then changing to a half dead centre the face of the inlet was machined (photo 4).


----------



## vcutajar

Now to give the carb inlet the bell mouth shape. Using a centre drill the inlet was openned up (photo 1). Next a countersink bit was used and this was used to half the depth of the previous operation (photo 2).

Then using a half round needle file the bell mouth shape was formed to a 12.5mm radius. Using sand paper and polishing it the final result is displayed in photo 3.


----------



## idahoan

HI Vince

That fussy little carby is coming along nicely; I'm enjoying watching how you are approaching the different setups and machining operations.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave

I am taking it real nice and slow as, as you said, it is a fussy little carby.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Drilled the two mounting holes on the carb flange using the flange brass template I had used on the cylinder head.  The mounting flange was cleaned up and filed down to size.  While I was at it I decided to clean up the whole of the carb body which I have been doing for the last two days.


----------



## vcutajar

I haven't done anything this week on the carb except soft soldering the handle to the throttle body.  There were too many things diverting my attention from the Kiwi.

This weekend I found some time to play in the garage.

Before continuing work on the carb body I need to do the banjo connector and the fuel jet housing.  These will determine how much more milling I need to do on the carb body.

Did the banjo connector first but was not in the mood of making it from one piece so I fabricated it from two pieces of brass.  First I did the circular part which was simple work on the lathe (photo 1).  Then I did the straight part on the lathe but drilled the through hole 0.5mm undersize (2mm).

Put the circular part in the vice and plunge drilled with a 5mm slot drill.  I did not go all the way through the banjo.  Applied some solder cream at the bottom on the plunged hole.  Pressed in the other part of the banjo (photo 2) and applied heat to the part.  I then started threading 6 x 0.75mm (photo 3).  Unfortunately early in the threading process the part gave way.  On inspection it was found that not enough heat was appled to melt and flow all the solder cream.  I guess the vice jaws were sinking away all the heat.  Some more cream applied and more heat applied.  This time the joint was good because it survived the whole threading process.  I then drilled the hole for the banjo 2.5mm which cleaned up the solder that might have gotten in the hole.

Photo 4 is the finished banjo connector.  Now I need to source or make a brass locknut.


----------



## vcutajar

It's been 5 days since I did something on the Kiwi and I was getting withdrawal symptoms especially since tomorrow I will be going abroad for work.  Some domestic appliances needed some TLC and as such did not have spare time to go to the garage.

Today I slipped into the garage for an hour to do a brass 6mm fine locknut.  I actually made two of them.  If I decide to make the float chamber I will need the other one.


----------



## vcutajar

Wow.  It's been three weeks since I did something on the Kiwi mostly due to the fact that I have been abroad twice for work.  It's good to be back and do some work on the engine.

Started work on the fuel jet body for the carb.  Machined the front part of the jet on the lathe (photo 1) and then drilled the jet hole 0.7mm (photo 2).


----------



## vcutajar

Did some more work on the front part of the jet.  I am noticing that the plans have some missing dimensions for the jet so I am guessimating some things.

First off I needed to make a 1/16" groove where the banjo will sit.  So I used a 2.5mm drill which had the backside ground to a point to use as a tranfer punch, put the banjo in the jet housing, and with this transfer punch scratched the housing where the groove should be (photo 1).

I then cut the groove (photo 2) but the plans do not specify how deep the groove should be, so I made it to a depth of 0.75mm.

Then I drilled some 1.5mm holes in the groove.  The plans do not specify how many so I drilled 4.


----------



## vcutajar

Some more work on the jet.  Started working on the back part of the jet.  Used a collet holder instead of the 3 jaw chuck.  Machined and threaded the back part 6mm fine (photo 1).  Then drilled, counterbored, countersunk and tapped 3mm the inside of the jet making sure the thread reaches the banjo groove.

The remaining photos show the finished fuel jet.


----------



## vcutajar

Did the gland nut for the back of the jet and then spent the rest of the time figuring out how to drill and tap the carb body for the jet.  I think I worked it out but instead of drilling it at 45 deg I might do it at 40 deg.


----------



## vcutajar

Managed to drill and tap the carb body for the jet assaembly. Photo 1 is showning the setup I used to hold the carb. Photo 2 is setting it up at 40 deg angle. Inserted a 5mm rod in the carb air inlet and used this rod to measure the angle. Then drilled and tapped and milled the platform where the banjo will sit. This operation was done repeatedly in small increments until the tip of the jet just appeared in the carb air passage. Photo 3 showing the jet assembly screwed into the carb body.

Left the carb in the vise so that next time I will mill out the small defect in the casting that is evident in photo 3.


----------



## vcutajar

Drilled the carb primary air passage (1.6mm).


----------



## vcutajar

Started work on the jet needle valve. Instead of doing it in one piece I decided to do it in two pieces; the needle shaft and the knurled knob.

First attempt at machining the needle shaft ended in a total failure but the second attempt was a success.

Started with a stainless steel 3mm rod and turned the needle taper (10 deg inclusive) (photo 1). Then I needed to reduce the 3mm shaft to 1.2mm and that is where everything went wrong on the first attempt. Second attempt was done by grinding the shaft instead of turning it. Unfortunately I do not have a toolpost grinder so a Dremel was clamped to the toolpost as shown in photo 2. A cutting disk was used for grinding. This method was successful as seen in photo 3.

Next the shaft was threaded 3mm (photo 4). Lenght of the thread was done by trial and error as no dimensions were specified on the plans.


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday I finished the knurled knob for the needle shaft (photo 1).

Today I superglued the needle shaft to the knob.

Photo 2 displays all the parts of the carb and photos 3 & 4 the completed carb. I hope the carb actually works.

So now all the major parts of the engine are complete. I haven't done the float chamber yet. I will try the engine without it and if it works I might do it. I do not know if this happens to other people but the closer I get to finish the Kiwi the more convinced I am the project will end up as a glorified paper weight.

I still need to pin the gear to the crankshaft, harden and caseharden some parts (is this really required??), lap the valves and check for leakages and build the ignition system. I need to order somethings from the UK to do all these things.


----------



## idahoan

Nice work Vince!

I bet it feels good the have all those little parts nicely fitting together.

Dave


----------



## metalmad

Cool Carby Buddy


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Dave and Pete

Many thanks for the encouragement. Thm:

I needed it.

Vince


----------



## ProdEng

Good job on the carb Vince, a small and awkward bunch of parts to machine.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks also Jan.

This morning I totally dismantled the engine and will slowly rebuild it putting in the finishing touches as I go along.  First thing to do is to pin the gear to the crankshaft.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Haven't done much lately on the Kiwi as I am waiting for some items to arrive from abroad.

I did pin the gear to the crankshaft (photo 1).  I also got myself a 12V ignition coil and condensor.  Today I decided to test the ignition system using the Kiwi contact points and the sparkplug in the cylinder head.  Hooked everything up temporarily using hook up wire (looks like spaghetti junction) and connected it to a car battery (photo 2).

Turning the contact point cam by hand, I managed to get a decent spark in the plug.  At least now I now that the electrical part of the engine is working.


----------



## vcutajar

Finally back from Munich and in the meantime the things I sent for have arrived.

I got some bits and pieces to make up the high tension lead for the spark plug and some case-hardening compound (Kasenit replacement) from Chronos.

For the HT lead I got two options to connect it to the spark plug.  Either a brass clip or a spark plug cap.  I noticed that the spark plug cap I got is the resistive type.  I am not knowledgeable about these things so could somebody tell me what is the use of having a resistor in the cap?  Will this effect the spark?  Should I forget the cap and use the brass clip instead?

Also, I wonder if anybody has used the Kasenit replacement compound I got.  Any comments on it's effectiveness? Thanks.


----------



## vcutajar

Yesterday I tried case hardening the wrist pin.  I am not sure if it made any difference so decided to leave it as is.  After all this engine (if it ever runs) will only run for short periods.

Today I made two brass end plates for the wrist pin which were eventually pressed in.  Also the two piston rings were fitted on the piston and the piston fitted into the cylinder.  It was not difficult to press the piston into the cylinder and the miniature ring compressor I had made was not used.

I think it's normal (remember this is my first engine), the piston with the rings installed, is a bit more stiff to move in the cylinder.


----------



## vcutajar

Did some more reassembly of the Kiwi.

I was going to fit the crankshaft but then I remembered that everytime I needed to untighten either the flywheel nut or the special nut retaining the gear I always had problems because I could not stop the crankshaft from turning.  So I milled two flats on both threaded extremities of the crankshaft (photo 1) to lock the shaft from turning with a spanner.

I then fitted the conrod to the crankshaft (photo 2) and then mounted the crankshaft to both halves of the crankcase (photo 3).

Photo 4 is the partially assembled Kiwi back on its mount.


----------



## idahoan

Looking good Vince; thanks for the updates.

I'm still fallowing along here; I'm hoping to get an update to my project sometime this week.

It looks like it won't be long now and we will hear the good news of another engine coming to life. 

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave for hanging in there.

Did some rough timing of the camshaft and also fitted the ignition timing cover with its' associated mechanism (photo 2) and set the ignition cam position.

I also made up the H.T. lead using the NGK resistive spark plug cap.

All that remains to be done is grinding the valve seats.


----------



## JaamieG

Fantastic build and step to step tutorial Thm:
I just read it all and enjoyed every single step. Absolutely fantastic.
Thanks for sharing all the details of the process.
Cheers,
Giacomo
Sweden


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Giacomo for the kind words.  Happy that you enjoyed my journey.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Only valve grinding into the head remains but I have been side-tracked by some big-name games for the Xbox that came out this month and I could not resist them.

Shoot away


----------



## vcutajar

Had a break today from the video-gaming world and back to the machining world.

I fitted the valves into the head using 600 grit grinding paste and an MT3 drill chuck. Put the valve in the head and clamped the valve from the end of the valve stem with the drill chuck (photo 1). The inlet valve did not need a lot of work but the exhaust valve needed a fair bit of work.

Used a vacuum hand pamp to check for valve seating (photo 2). The valves leak from 20" vacuum to nearly zero in 15 seconds. Hope this is not too much.

I then gave the head and valves a good cleanup in the ultrasonic cleaner to remove any traces of the grinding paste.


----------



## vcutajar

Today I re-assembled the cylinder head and bolted it to the engine (photo 1 and 2).

So I decided to try and start the engine to see if at least it would make any encouraging noise. I connected a plastic tube to the carb and filled it with fuel (unleaded gasoline) and gave the engine a twirl with the electric drill. Bad news. Not even the slightest indication of combustion in the engine.

Decided that further work on the engine will stop until I troubleshoot what is the problem.

Started off to check if the sparkplug is working. Took the sparkplug out and ran the engine again. Yes there is a spark but the problem is I do not know how a good spark should look like. Replaced the ht lead (which had a resisitive cap) with common wire and tried again. Again same spark (I think). Checked the plug gap and it is set at 0.5mm. Should I change this gap?


----------



## Gedeon Spilett

what a smart thread !
it looks like an engine ready to run, there is no longer any petrol at the pump ?


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Gedeon

Thanks for coming by and commenting.

Today I did some more troubleshooting.  I increased the sparkplug gap from 0.5mm to 0.6mm and had a closer look at the colour of the spark.  It is whitish with blue edges.  I need to get a different ignition coil to see if it makes any difference.

Whilst turning the engine with the hand drill to see the spark, I realised something.  OMG.  I have been turning the engine in the wrong direction .  After some unprounoucable phrases I cooled off a bit and put some fuel in and gave it another try.  It still did not start but I think at one time I heard an encouraging splutter coming out of the engine.

I am now seriously thinking of getting a commercial carb to replace the one I made.  Whilst I decide on which one to get from the UK, I removed the cylinder head and started lapping the valve seats with toothpaste to remove the small leak that they had.


----------



## warf

Impressive work. You might see how much compression it's got. And try fule out of a syring or starting fluid if you suspect the carb.


----------



## vcutajar

Hi warf

Thanks for your comments.



> You might see how much compression it's got.


 
I would love to measurre what compression I have at the moment but from what I understand the commecial compression testers used on car engines do not work well on small model engines.  Having said that,  if you have a way of doing it, I would love to hear it.



> And try fule out of a syring or starting fluid if you suspect the carb.


 
Can you please explain what you mean by this.  Any suggestion is most welcome to get my first engine running.

Vince


----------



## Gedeon Spilett

I suggest that you make a copy of the valve diagram on hard paper, put it between 2 washers on the crankshaft with the correct position of TDC, and turn the shaft (in the right direction!) then check that valves open and close at the designed angle. It is simple to do and reassuring. 
You should make a list of everything that works well!
Spark, and spark timing, valve opening, valve seating, compression&#8230;what remains after?  
I bet that your engine is ready
 Cheers


----------



## warf

Starting fluid is used primaraly by notherners to start cold engines, it comes in a spray can at your local auto parts dealer. You squirt it directly into the carb throught. If compression and spark are good and at the right time the engine will fire a couple of times at least. Don't try to run the engine on it for any preiod of time because you cant adjust the mixture like a carb, and a lean condition could damage the engine. Just use it for trouble shooting. If it dose fire "BANG-BANG" then your carb needs help.
If it dose not fire then its compresion or spark timing. Sounds like your spark is sufficent strength are you sure its at the right time? compression could be valve seal or valve timing or ring seal .


----------



## Cogsy

If you tip a small amount of fuel directly into the spark plug hole, then replace the plug and lead and try to start it, it will produce a few fires and maybe even a second of running as well, if everything else is ok.

Compression you can just 'feel' but without a reference you won't know how much it's got. You can try blocking the carb and exhaust and turn it over, seeing what it feels like, then try it only blocking one or the other. If there is a difference between the two it will show you which one of your valves is leaking.

Good luck - I'm sure you'll get it running.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks guys for the tips.

At the moment I am working again on the valve seating.  I just finished the inlet valve and now it will leak a 20" vacuum to near zero in 30 seconds.  Next time I will work on the exhaust valve and try to get the same result.

Vince


----------



## Charles Lamont

Well, I'm on the edge of my seat. If I have to stay here too long it is going to get uncomfortable.


----------



## vcutajar

Nice one Charles.  I suggest you stand up a liitle because it looks like it's going to take a long time.

Haven't done much lately.  Both valves now leak a 20" vacuum in about 30 seconds and I also reduced the gap of the ignition contact point.  Sometimes when trying to start it it gives indications that it wants to start and sometimes I also see flames coming out of the exhaust port but that's all.

I am at the moment experimenting with different valve timings.


----------



## 5mall5nail5

This is very interesting - I do hope you figure it out.  can you setup indiactors and confirm your timing?  Flame out the exhaust sounds like too much overlap or too late of total timing.


----------



## myrickman

Vince- I showed up late to this party but after an hour of browsing the posts of your progress, all I can say is WOW. Very impressive build! The carb is a work of art. I picked up a lot of good fixturing  tips from your very extensive and complete documentation. I would not sweat having the valves be super leak tight. While they hammer against the seats during running they should tighten up a bit more....? I like the design and the lines. Also like your candor about not starting some bits until you feel the inspiration..... MM


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks guys for having a look and the encouragement.  Troubleshooting has been painfully slow.  I make a small adjustment give it a try and then give up for the day.  For example today, I took off the piston rings cleaned them up with 800 grit sand paper and fitted them back again.  It seemed (or it just could be my imagination) that it improved slightly the compression.  Still it did not start.  It tries to start but is not self-sustaining.  During these holidays I am getting an expert (in real engines) to have a look at it to see basically if the spark and the timing are good.  There is something else I can try, but I am leaving it as a last resort.

Although I haven't given up yet, every day that passes the reality that this could be a glorified and expensive paperweight is setting in.

Season greetings

Vince


----------



## KBC

vcutajar said:


> Thanks guys for having a look and the encouragement.  Troubleshooting has been painfully slow.  I make a small adjustment give it a try and then give up for the day.  For example today, I took off the piston rings cleaned them up with 800 grit sand paper and fitted them back again.  It seemed (or it just could be my imagination) that it improved slightly the compression.  Still it did not start.  It tries to start but is not self-sustaining.  During these holidays I am getting an expert (in real engines) to have a look at it to see basically if the spark and the timing are good.  There is something else I can try, but I am leaving it as a last resort.
> 
> Although I haven't given up yet, every day that passes the reality that this could be a glorified and expensive paperweight is setting in.
> 
> Season greetings
> 
> Vince



Vince ,
Don't give up we are all rooting for you, it took me 4 years to get my Flash Steam plant running and installed in a boat, it now is in the 40 mph region and very dangerous running on R/C so it's laid up until I consider what to do with it but not 4 years wasted, so keep at it.

George.


----------



## vcutajar

Merry Christmas to all

Just an update for those following my trials and tribulations.

The engine runs when trying to start with the electric drill but is not self-sustaining. My friend said that the spark and the timing are ok but just needs a bit more compression.  When making the crankcase, I left the cylinder platform about 1mm higher to reduce the compression.  Westbury suggested that a lower compression would make an easier starting engine.

Well today whilst dismantling the engine to mill off that extra height on the crankcase I had another idea.  Why not make a new longer piston.  So the plan is to make a new piston from aluminium bar stock.  I will make it even tighter with no clearance at the top and make it 1 mm longer to cater for the extra material on the crankcase cylinder platform.


----------



## idahoan

Hi Vince, Good compression well never hurt; as long as your engine is apart how is the wear pattern on the rings? Are they contacting the cylinder fully; are the end gaps reasonable when installed in the cylinder?

If you are not getting a good seal on the rings it may be a simple ascorrecting that. If the rings are seating well; you are probably on the right track. 

Keep us posted,

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Hi Dave.  Seasons greetings.

Yes, the wear pattern on the rings is uniform which should indicate that they are seating properly.  In an earlier post I had said that I touched the rings with sand paper.  This was done as the wear pattern was not uniform.  The ring gap is minimal.  I had asked a question about how much it should be on this forum and I had set it even less than that.

Today I had second thoughts on the course of action I was going to follow.  I will sleep on it and see tomorrow.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

I haven't given up yet.  The recent holidays put a damper on things and had hardly any time to continue troubleshooting.  Well since my last post I have milled off the excess metal I had left on the crankcase cylinder platform.  Did not make much difference.

Decided to make a new piston from bar stock but had to wait for the holidays to finish to buy the material as my usual supplier was closed.  Piston finally finished and it is a tighter fit then the old one.  I did not give it the usual clearances and will see what happens.

Photo 1:  Milling the slot for the conrod.  Used a 4 jaw chuck which was clamped to the mill table.
Photo 2:  Reaming the hole for the wrist pin.
Photo 3:  Both pistons.  The new one is on the left.
Photo 4:  Same as above.

Installed the piston in the engine without the cylinder head and using an electric drill ran the engine for a while to give the piston some running in.  Put the cylinder head on and there seems to be better compression.  Connected the fuel line to the carb and believe it or not my electric drill gave up its ghost.

So now I have to get myself another drill before trying to start the engine.  Just my luck.


----------



## vcutajar

Well, today I went out and bought a new electric drill. Hooked it up to a plastic pipe. Filled the pipe with fuel (no tank yet) and gave it a twirl.

OMG it runs. Only for short periods, as it runs out of fuel quickly, but at least now I know that it works. Unbelievable.

Now I can continue and finish it up. Still need to do the exhaust pipe, a base and some sort of fuel tank.

Video of the first run:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KDr3Ga_CTBA[/ame]

And the second run:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbQ_hjSGgZ8[/ame]

I hope this is the correct way to show videos.


----------



## Henry

Nice, nice really nice to hear your engine!!! finally was the compression!


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Henry.  I am over the moon at this time.  My first ever model engine coming to life was an undescribale (is this a proper word?) moment.

Yes the problem was not enough compression.  The new piston fixed that.

I should make the Kiwi as my avatar now that it is running.

Vince


----------



## ozzie46

Congratulations Vince .Nice going.


  Ron


----------



## JaamieG

Hi Vince,
I can fully understand you! I hope tonight I can enjoy the same feeling of having a self running motor...

Giacomo


----------



## starnovice

I like your impromptu fuel tank. 

Pat


----------



## Gedeon Spilett

a week ago you were ready to give up, I thought ! 
congratulation, you have got a running engine not a paperweight...
nice engine, nice noise too, I understand that you're happy.
and now tuning and tweaking, again a lot of happy moment to come


----------



## KBC

vcutajar said:


> Thanks Henry.  I am over the moon at this time.  My first ever model engine coming to life was an undescribale (is this a proper word?) moment.
> 
> Yes the problem was not enough compression.  The new piston fixed that.
> 
> I should make the Kiwi as my avatar now that it is running.
> 
> Vince



Hi Vince,

Yes  when the hair on the back of your neck bristles when your engine runs for the first time, this is what makes it all worth while.

Congrats, well done, bigger fuel tank next .

George


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks guys for the kind words.

Now I need to finish it off and maybe start thinking what to do next.  For sure not another casting.

Vince


----------



## camm-1

Congratulations:bow:!!


----------



## Charles Lamont

Good job. (I've been sat here waiting for this for three weeks.)


----------



## idahoan

Wow!

 Vince
That is terrific news and it sounds great; I'm so happy for you; This is an accomplishment that you will cherish and remember for many years.

Congrats,

Waiting to see the finished project and video.
Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks camm-1, Charles and Dave.  Much appreciated.

Well I have learnt my lesson (a bit late).  A casting kit as a first engine is not for the faint-hearted.  Thankfully I only had to redo the piston.

I have ordered some 8mm OD brass tube from the UK for the exhaust pipe and am actively thinking whether to do the base with wood or aluminium.  Don't know which is best.  Also I still have to do the float chamber but the casting is not very good.  I was thinking of making it from brass instead of aluminium and instead of a float chamber I might do it as the fuel tank.

Vince


----------



## Generatorgus

Vince, Congrats.  
There's not much worse than putting a piece of your life into building a little engine and not being able to get it running, but when you make first fire, wow!!! What a feeling.  Is your hat getting tight?

Well done.

GUS


----------



## metalmad

Nice One Buddy 
Pete


----------



## Lawijt

Dear Vince,

I'am very happy in your place best man......I really want too build such a motor , but now I read all , I will be not able too make it.
I never learned machining!! I buy all the machines , it looks very simple , but it is absolutely NOT!
You did a very good & nice work , congratulations.

Best regards

Barry


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Gus, Pete and Barry.

Barry, like you I do not have a machining background.  What I know is either hands on trial and error or reading on the internet.  Before I started this project I had already done two other models (not engines).  Both were big projects but from bar stock.

I have to admit that I started the Kiwi because the literature gave me the impression that it was a good beginners project.  Now that I have nearly finished it I am now of the opinion that it is definetly not a beginners project especially if one has not done any machining beforehand.

So, Barry if you do not have any machining experience yet, I suggest you try something simpler.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

It was quite a productive day.  I got one of the three items remaining unexpectedly in the bag.

I ordered the brass tube for the exhaust and bought a piece of brass for the float chamber.  I am not going to use the aluminium casting that came with the kit for the float chamber as it will cause me a lot of grief.  I then went to an acquaintance with my engine to hopefully get a base done for it.

He is a retired wood-turner but still goes to his shop to tinker and do the odd job.  He is an avid plane-spotter and sometimes I visit him and talk about his favorite subject.

I entered his shop holding my Kiwi in my hand with the temporary MDF base I am using.  After commenting favourably about the engine he then said that that base will not do and went scurrying to the back of his shop.  Came back with a piece of oak and said that this should do for the base.  Thirty minutes later I was going out of his shop with a nice base for the Kiwi and the best part is that he refused payment for the job.  My lucky day.

This evening spent some time figuring out how to convert the float chamber into a fuel tank.


----------



## vcutajar

OMG.  Today I received the 8mm OD brass tube from ebay seller maccmodels.  That was very very fast.  I have bought other things from him in the past and was always happy with the transactions.  The tube was taped to a piece of wood (photo 1) so that it does not get bent in transit.

I am going to use the brass flange I previously used as a template (photo 2).  The tube is a tight push fit into the flange.  I have not decided if I should silver solder it or just leave it.  Also I was thinking of doing a 90 deg bend in the tube.  I have to think about it.

Started also on the float chamber which is going to be transformed into a fuel tank.  Faced off the side of a piece of brass using the boring head to a radius of 12.7mm (photo 3).  This will be the boss which will be soldered to the tank body (photo 4).  This will eventually be screwed into the carb banjo.


----------



## vcutajar

Machined the tank body to size and profiled the bottom of the tank (photo 1).  Drilled and tapped 6mm fine the boss at the bottom of the tank.  I then soft soldered the boss I previously made to the side of the tank (photo 2).  After clean up (photo 3).


----------



## vcutajar

Some more work on the tank.  Drilled and tapped 6mm fine the side boss of the tank (photo 1) and made a trial fit to the carb (photo 2).  Looking good.

Drilled and bored the inside of the tank (photo 3) and did another trial fit (photo 4).  Not bad.  I hope it works.


----------



## Lawijt

Nice work.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Barry.  Still do not know if this fuel tank is going to work.  We'll see.

Vince


----------



## idahoan

Hi Vince

I'm not exactly sure why it might not work but it sure looks nice!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave.

When I deviate from plans there is always that nagging feeling that it might not work.  My reasoning of changing the float chamber into a fuel tank is that if the Kiwi worked with fuel just coming from a plastic pipe then why shouldn't it work with this method.  Still keeping my fingers crossed.

Vince


----------



## jack620

That's an amazing first effort.  Well done!


----------



## Lawijt

If it don't work......You can make a fuell tank like Jan Ridders. He takes the fumes from the fuell. So it will never been too rich. I know all about engines & the fuell...But I'am not able to build it. Now I build a flame eater from Jan , but it is a lot of trial & error. But I learnd somethinges right now , zeroing the mill. That helps me a lot.

Barry


----------



## vcutajar

Nice one Barry.  Keep it up.  I am also still learning things.  The trick is to jump in and give it a try with something easy and do not worry if you make mistakes.  We all do them.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

I made a dummy fuel inlet nipple (photo 1) which will screw into the bottom of the tank.  This will make it look like the real float chamber.

I had some spare time and started looking at the exhaust pipe.  The few photos I managed to find on the internet of the Kiwi all had a short straight exhaust pipe.  I thought why not make a longer pipe with a 90 deg bend?  Truth be told, I have never bent brass pipe, only copper.  I took out my miniature pipe bender and tried to make the bend.

Well, you guessed it, total failure (photo 2).  Tried again but this time very slowly.  Still no joy.  Actually even worse (photo 3).  Blaming the pipe bender, I tried a 10mm copper pipe (did not have 8mm) and it made a very nice bend.  Maybe brass pipe is not meant to be bent.  So, the exhaust pipe has to be straight unless I use copper pipe but for some reason copper pipe for the exhaust did not look good on the Kiwi.


----------



## Charles Lamont

I should think the brass tube would need annealing, perhaps several times during the bend.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Charles.  Good idea.  I'll give it a try.

Vince


----------



## joe d

Vince:

I can tell you from personal experience that Charles has nailed it.

I do have several spare bits of tubing that look just like yours if you need more
crumpled up brass.... from before I learned this.

If you have access to some, filling the tube with some cerro-bend will give an even nicer result when combined with annealing.

I've been enjoying following along on your build, thanks for bringing us all along!

Cheers, Joe


----------



## Lawijt

When I have to bend a tube.......
-close 1 side
-fill it to the top with table salt & shake a bit
-close the top than
-bend it
-open the tube & let the salt coming out

Than you have a beautifull bend.

Barry


----------



## camm-1

I used chromed copperpipes for my Hoglet, these plumbers use for bathrooms etc.
Ove
You can by It hard or soft, the soft bends very nice.
Ove


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Joe, Barry and Ove for your suggestions.  Joe, wish I could find cerro-bend here.  

Success, sort of.

Me, not resisting a challenge, decided to try again the bend.  I followed Charles suggestion and annealed the brass.  I annealed, bent, annealed and bent. Photo 1 shows the result.  I was getting a flat area on the outside radius.  Did not like it.  So I redid it and bent a little less between annealing operations.  Photo 2 showing the result.  Not perfect but I can live with that.

Having finished that, I turned my attention back to the fuel tank.  Screwed in the dummy fuel inlet in the bottom of the tank and used a locknut, I had made extra when doing the carb banjo, to lock it (photo 3).  Photo 4 is how it looks from inside the tank.  I tapped a 3mm hole so that I will screw in a lenght of 3mm threaded rod which will eventually hold the fuel tank cap.

Just noticed that this is page 52 of my build log.  Hope I did not overdo it and bore everyone to death.  If so, apologies from my side.


----------



## idahoan

Hi Vince

I'm not bored; still enjoying your progress, quality work and great updates.

Thanks,
Dave


----------



## Gedeon Spilett

If I follow properly, your aim is to replace the float chamber by a plain fuel tank, in this case it looks rather small for a 15 CC,  beautiful but small, really smart with the carb in bronze.
The tank also will become pretty hot so close of the engine.
Cheers


----------



## vcutajar

Gedeon

Yes, I agree with you, the tank will be rather small.  I estimate that there will be enough fuel for a 2 minute run.  I usually do not run it more than a minute because the cylinder and cylinder head gets very hot and I do not want to damage it.  Does yours also get very hot?

Dave

As you are not bored, here is another update.

Yesterday I silver soldered the exhaust pipe to the flange and pickled it in white vinegar.  Today I cleaned it up (photo 1) and fitted it to the cylinder head (photo 2).  Gave the engine a run and it gives a nice motorcyle noise with the exhaust pipe.

I was thinking of maybe giving the crankcase only a lick of engine paint.  Maybe a very darkish grey, nearly black.  What do you guys think?  Or should I leave it as is?


----------



## Generatorgus

Vince, coming along nicely.  Making the "smalls' after you get it running are a lot of fun, even if you crinkle a pipe or two.

Paint, I vote for the dark grey.

GUS


----------



## Lawijt

Please , do NOT paint that beautifull motor.


----------



## Gedeon Spilett

I vote for no paint at large, just a few part tinted, maybe, blued screws & nuts, a touch of black inside the flywheel, but take care that yours engine does not look like a steam engine ! 
Yes My engine is pretty hot, as long as the engine runs on the bench, how can we avoid it ? I get burns by the exhaust pipe while tuning, I put a fan now to cool things a little bit. 
cheers


----------



## vcutajar

Oh well Gedeon, I am making sure I do not give my engine a hard time.  I run it nearly daily for just a minute and it seems to run better each time.  To start on the first attempt I open up the throttle to half and the needle valve 1.5 turns.  As soon as it starts I throttle it back to idle.

Today I finished off the wooden base by drilling the mounting holes and giving it two coats of teak oil.

Also today I finally started work on the fuel tank lid.  I did not start it earlier because I was still working out how to machine both sides.  The lid is only 4mm thick.  Started off by machining the top part of the lid (photo 1).  I left a longish spigot on purpose so that I can use it to hold it in the chuck when machining the other side.  With the parting tool I removed some excess material on the side before parting off (photo 2).

Turned it over and holding it by the spigot I machined the bottom of the lid (photo 3).  Now all that remains is drilling a 3mm hole through the spigot and milling off the excess spigot.  I also need to drill a vent hole in the lid.


----------



## vcutajar

Fuel tank finished but have not tested it yet.

Finished off the lid by drilling the 3mm hole through the boss and then milled off the excess boss material.  Then drilled a 1mm vent hole (photo 1).

Then manufactured a small brass knob (photo 2) to hold the lid in place.  Final photo is the tank bolted to the carb banjo.  It looks exactly like the original float chamber except for the brass knob at the top of the lid.


----------



## Lawijt

It looks all so great!!!! I hope it will work for you... So much work too make that.


----------



## idahoan

Lookin good Vince!

Dave


----------



## happykingkong

GEAT job!     excuse me these casting parts is your own casting


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks guys.  Maybe today I will try starting the engine with the new fuel tank.

Happykingkong I bought the castings from Hemingway in the UK (http://www.hemingwaykits.com/).

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

The fuel tank works. Yippee.

Initially it felt like there was a little fuel starvation so I increased the vent hole in the fuel tank lid from 1mm to 1.5mm and it fixed the problem.  So I decided to make a final video of the engine running and during one of the runs, the fuel tank fell off.  The soft solder joint of the carb banjo failed .

And just to show that not everything goes to plan I am posting the video of the fuel tank failure.  Excuse the last word at the end of the video .

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mNfCF36v4s[/ame]

Fixed that problem and the engine is running again .

Also during one of the runs, I realised  that I totally forgot the external oil reservoir. Before each run I usually inject oil directly into the crankshaft with a syringe.  Now I have to figure out where to put the oil reservoir.  Most probably I need to make an independent stand for the reservoir.


----------



## vcutajar

Why is it that the final pieces of a project take so long to get done??

Could it be that maybe subconciously we do not want the build to end??

Well, finally, I am happy to say that the final piece of the jigsaw is now finished and fitted.

The pedestal to support the external oil reservoir has been done.  Nothing special, made from aluminium.  No photos were taken during the making of this part but I took a photo of the finished pedestal in its place.

Hopefully, weather permitting, I will take some photos of the finished Kiwi using natural light and post them here as a final installment to this build.


----------



## idahoan

Vince,

I hate to see this great build come to an end; it has been a great ride and the finished project turned out just wonderful.
Congratulations on a job well done.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Dave for the nice words on my crude attempt at building my first engine.  Appreciate it.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

As promised, I am attaching some glamour shots of the Kiwi and a last video to my last update of this build.

I think, I have been at it for 14 months, which considering the slow pace I work at, is not a lot.  I would like to thank everybody who followed this build, especially those that offered tips and also words of encouragement.  Thank you.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6ea-0GQZQY[/ame]

The engine runs on unleaded petrol (gasoline) and no gaskets were used as suggested by Westbury.


----------



## Gedeon Spilett

Looks and runs as a well finished engine, be proud of it, congratulations !
the whole story, an awsome thread, thanks


----------



## Generatorgus

Vince, 
 I would find it very difficult to say that your beatiful little engine is a crude attempt.
Finished product runs, neatly done, nicely displayed, congratulations, nice job.

GUS


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks Gedeon and Gus

Vince


----------



## happykingkong

Too pretty nice  *club**club**beer**club**club**club**club**club**club*    GREAT JOB!!!!!


----------



## GaryK

I have to say that that was one of most enjoyable posts I have read in a long time.

Great job on the engine!

Congratulations!


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks happykingkong.

Also thanks GaryK.  Glad you enjoyed the build log.

Vince


----------



## vcutajar

Came back to my own build log and saw that I have more than 78,000 views. Wow. Thanks guys for stopping by.

I also noticed that for some reason the videos are not displaying. I checked on youtube and they are still there. Unfortunately I do not know why they are not showing

Vince


----------



## Henry

It is normal that you have so may views. It is a great job!


The videos work fine for me.


----------



## lovemanop

Nice little project you have there. I'll be watching with great interest. 

manop thailand   I use the Language Translation are sorry.


----------



## Lawijt

Indeed , you make a nice build log from the engine.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks guys.

Henry, thank you for pointing out that the videos are still visible.  I just could not see them using my old Internet explorer.  So I installed Chrome and low and behold I could see the videos again.  So the problem is just from my side.

Vince


----------



## Slimey1

That is beautiful.


----------



## vcutajar

A bit late to respond but thanks Slimey1

Vince


----------



## offchopdarwin

vcutajar said:


> The Dormier reamer worked out fine. Drilled the hole 1/64" off the centre and reamed it. Trial fit in the rocker arms and all seems OK. Most probably will do the 3mm studs for the bushes.


can i ask y are the holes off center i new to this site .. is it so u can get your vale tappet Clarance


----------



## vcutajar

The hole is off center so that you can adjust the clearance between the rocker arm toe and the valve.

Vince


----------



## James6605

Beautiful work Vince. You can be proud of her!!


----------



## gus

Lawijt said:


> When I have to bend a tube.......
> -close 1 side
> -fill it to the top with table salt & shake a bit
> -close the top than
> -bend it
> -open the tube & let the salt coming out
> 
> Than you have a beautifull bend.
> 
> Barry



Hi Barry,
1. Happy New Year.
2. Learnt a new trick from you,using table salt. Seen old time plumbers
    using sand.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks James

Vince


----------



## GromUKR

looks great. I was given one by my father yesterday. It's in a dire state at the moment. I'd love for it to look like yours someday.


----------



## vcutajar

Thanks.  I saw your photos on another website.

Vince


----------

