# Accuracy on the lathe



## chucketn (Dec 19, 2012)

In a post about lathe milling attachments, a comment was made about using dial indicators to make accurate cuts on the lathe. I for one could stand to learn how to be more accurate on the lathe (no DRO on the lathe).
What is your technique for using dial indicators on the lathe to make accurate cuts. Pictures please!

Chuck


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## Shawn (Dec 19, 2012)

I have a set of dial indicators setup on my lathe, the one for the cross slide gets used every time I use the lathe.


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## Teus (Dec 19, 2012)

Shawn said:


> I have a set of dial indicators setup on my lathe, the one for the cross slide



Great tip Shawn very useful. Thm: 

I gonna make a same setup, Thanks.


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## lohring (Dec 19, 2012)

I used a carriage travel dial indicator for years.  A fancier version that doesn't cost much more uses digital scales.

Lohring Miller


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## chucketn (Dec 19, 2012)

Now _THAT"S_ what I'm talkin' 'bout! 2 hours since the origional post and look what we got!

Lohring, can you give more details, like brand, source, readout, cost?

Chuck


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## Propforward (Dec 19, 2012)

Shawn said:
			
		

> I have a set of dial indicators setup on my lathe, the one for the cross slide gets used every time I use the lathe.


 

Holy moly! What a great and simple idea - I will be rigging something like this up for sure. I can see some dimensional improvements coming quite quickly with this technique. Big thumbs up! Thm:


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## lensman57 (Dec 19, 2012)

Hi,

I use long travel dial indicators on my lathe, I find the lathe dials quite accurate but compensating for the back lash is a problem at times, so the indicators come in handy so long as they are set perpendicular to the ways or cross slide and the measuring surface is flat. The cheap Chinese made digital ones are quite good as you can zero them on the move and they measure the distance accurately. When not in use you can just remove them, this is an advatage over the fixed ones IMHO.

Regards,

A.G


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## Jeff-in-PA (Dec 19, 2012)

lohring said:


> I used a carriage travel dial indicator for years.  A fancier version that doesn't cost much more uses digital scales.
> 
> Lohring Miller


 
 Thanks for posting that Lohring. 

 I just found these on ebay for cheap, item 230747956665
35" travel  
http://www.ebay.com/itm/230747956665?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619

 12" travel , item 230899207877
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-DIGITAL-...877?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35c2aa4ec5

 Are these similar to your set up?

 Thanks  
   Jeff


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## Shawn (Dec 19, 2012)

The back of the South Bend cross slide has two threaded holes for attaching a taper attachment. It took about a half hour to thread a rod and attach the indicator. The indicator can be rotated out of the way in 2 seconds by releasing the bolt on the 1" square tube. The only thing I have to remember is to divide the depth of the cut by two before cutting, otherwise I end up taking of twice as much as I want. I've learned this the hard way more than once the first few times using it


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## Fluffy (Dec 19, 2012)

Chuck,
Here is a simple little clamp that I have used for years to hold a 0 to 30 mm dial indicator to measure the saddle movement when accurate length/positioning is required. Made to suit my lathe & has worked well. The movement of the indicator must be parallel with movement of the saddle. 
The indicator is used on the tailstock end of the bed as I do not have enough room to fit the clamp at the headstock end.
If you are to use a similar method to measure cross slide movement remember that you will be working on the work radius & whatever movement is set on the dial indicator will be half of what will be removed from the work diameter.
The secret to accurate machining is to *continually measure* the surface being machined. When turning the finished diameter, take a cut long enough to enable the measuring tool to be accurately used, stop, retract the tool, & measure. If OK continue, if not adjust & repeat. The more the surface is measured, the less chance of turning undersize.
Regards,
Don.


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## Ken I (Dec 20, 2012)

Before you reach finished size, determine what depth of cut you will be taking for the final pass and "practice" that depth shortly before you reach finished size (ie a depth of cut that gives a good finish) that way you can predetermine the difference between input and actual and get to an exact size before the final cut - this process will get you to the exact size you are aiming for.

Clear as mud ?

Ken


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## kvom (Dec 20, 2012)

At school we used a "mighty mag" magnetic holder to attach a DI to the lathe bed for measuring travel.


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## lohring (Dec 20, 2012)

chucketn said:


> Now _THAT"S_ what I'm talkin' 'bout! 2 hours since the origional post and look what we got!
> 
> Lohring, can you give more details, like brand, source, readout, cost?
> 
> Chuck



An article on the details should appear in Model Engine Builder soon.

Lohring Miller


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## Forestgnome (Dec 20, 2012)

"The secret to accurate machining is to continually measure the surface being machined"
Normally you shouldn't have to measure too often. In my mind, the secret to accurate machining (in terms of hitting a diameter) is in knowing that lathe tools don't always cut to the DOC setting. Each tool cuts differently, and also cuts differently depending on the DOC. When approaching the final diameter, I make sure I have two cuts left, one to measure the effect of the last DOC, and the final pass. So say I'm turning a 2" dia piece down to 1.00". I might stop at 1.030" after using a .050" DOC, then I'll divide the remainder by two so I'll have two cuts at .015" DOC. I make one pass and measure. I may find I've only cut .014, so the next cut will be adjusted by +.002 to .017". This technique kills it every time, HSS or carbide.


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 20, 2012)

IN my USAF machining classes we used micrometer stops. Layout to get close . measure cut measure .. use the micrometer stop to set adjust the finish final cuts. 
tin


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## gus (Dec 20, 2012)

Here is how a good friend suggest if O.D. n  I.D. is very critical.
When you are with last 10 thou. Use a hit list to track cut depth(no. of division advanced ) versus new dia.Take note of div advance and dia reduced.As you approach last two----three pass,you may decide to go for 1 div or 1/2 div. Tool bit is best ground sharp before last few cuts.If you need an urgent pee break,go. Its the last final cut that decides who won and who lost.The scrap bin or the turner.
Good Idea to take out all slacks on the slides.

As we age we get forgetful.W/o the hit list and after answering the handphone,it is usually disastrous.Make it a point to zero dial after every pass.
A dial gage mounted on to read tool bit advance helps for those who has yet to buy a DRO. My Sakai ML 360 is just too small to accept DRO.Plus the fact ,my three open sided balcony is no 100% storm proof. DRO cannot take the mini rain droplets.

Ever since I used hit list,hitting the required OD or ID was a breeze. Belief idea Tubal Cain for the hobby machinists .


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## starnovice (Dec 21, 2012)

This is a good point Gus.  I have found it also helps you to learn the quirks of you machine. Sometimes 1 div does not equal .001 and this will show that very quickly.

Pat


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## Forestgnome (Dec 21, 2012)

"Make it a point to zero dial after every pass." My take is this is a way to add error. Just write down the last setting.


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 21, 2012)

The most important aspect of accurate work is accurate measuring. Even on a cnc with pre programmed moves the machine would have quirks depending on the time of day phase of the moon wind direction etc.  and of course some tool wear. 
A tolerance of +- .005 is fairly typical of most general lathe work, but it is possible to work +- .0005 if you measure and plan carefully.

OMHO a good way to stay out of trouble is use a digital caliper and a micrometer that reads in tenths. why both ? the digital will get you into the ball park and the micrometer will get you to home plate. 
 a caliper will typicaly get you withing a couple thousandths but will not get you within a tenth.  the mic reads in tenths accurately but it is possible to misread the lines and be off by .025 in DAMHIKT.  
like others have said practice, and experiment  getting the best finish and know how much material needs to be left for a finish cut. 
get and keep a notebook. 
Tin


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## goldstar31 (Dec 22, 2012)

Hoorah, Tin, for your comments. Someone had to tell people the cold fact that a tool that will measure in thous- which will probably have a tolerance of plus or minus a thous or worse but 2 thous. And 2 thous might be too tight-- or a rattling bad fit.

So far, no one has mentioned checking your inspection/measuring tooling against a standard.

Do you know how accurate your tools actually are?

Thank you, Tin, for making my day

Norman


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## gus (Dec 22, 2012)

Forestgnome said:


> "Make it a point to zero dial after every pass." My take is this is a way to add error. Just write down the last setting.



Hi there,

Learned the hard way.The pesky phone rings or the boss wants your immediate attention,you forget to zero in and disaster struck.The scrap bin just got a new contribution.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 22, 2012)

No way, Gus. You are  adding the obvious tolerances each time- and they add up.
Sorry, but you start at Zero-- and there is only one zero. When the phone rings, when you want a pee, when the boss interferes-- all are different additions to Zero- where you started.


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## kvom (Dec 22, 2012)

One thing to consider is heat expansion.  Sometimes the roughing pass will generate enough heat to expand the work beyond the target tolerance.  If you let it cool down a bit before measuring for the finish pass(es), you may get a better result.


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 22, 2012)

Goldstar: thanks for the thumbs up. and yes a reference standard is a good idea. if one uses the same instrument to measure inside and outside  diameters you are likely good. for example using the tenth mic to measure the od of a piston and the same mic and a  T gauge to measure the cylinder  you should have a good fit. if you use an inside mic and a os mic compare the two. 

I was amazed the fit and finish of the parts from team build one parts from ten shops from all parts of the world came together and fit. 


Another point on using standards a buddy of mine worked in a local machine shop. the boss purchased a new mitutoyo multi anvil mic. he did not set it against the standard. he made a batch of parts for a customer only to find all the parts were out of tolerance. 
Tin


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## Teus (Dec 22, 2012)

Teus said:


> Great tip Shawn very useful. Thm:
> 
> I gonna make a same setup, Thanks.



And I just did today. Works perfect for me, thanks again for the tip


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 22, 2012)

When doing precision work know when to take a break and when not to. 
when the part is hot from rough cutting is a good time. when you are trying to get the last cut or two in or taking off the last few thou or the last few tenths is not a good time. it is easey to forget whether or not you dialed in for the last bit and if you are working in tenths things can change while you are on break. it does not take much to move the cross slide 1 ten thousands and that is two tenths on the diameter.  
I worked in a shop where the tolerances could be plus .0003 - 0.000.  a spring pass is all that is needed to take that little bit extra.

Also if you have tolerances use them . on the OD shoot for the high number on the ID shoot for the low one. You can always lapp off a little but add on tools are hard to find and expensive. 
Tin


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## Forestgnome (Dec 22, 2012)

gus said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Learned the hard way.The pesky phone rings or the boss wants your immediate attention,you forget to zero in and disaster struck.The scrap bin just got a new contribution.


 I used to keep  notepad in a spring clip screwed to the wall above my lathe for that. Now I have a dry erase board. Best small investment I've made.


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## dman (Dec 22, 2012)

Tin Falcon said:


> Goldstar: thanks for the thumbs up. and yes a reference standard is a good idea. if one uses the same instrument to measure inside and outside  diameters you are likely good. for example using the tenth mic to measure the od of a piston and the same mic and a  T gauge to measure the cylinder  you should have a good fit. if you use an inside mic and a os mic compare the two.
> 
> I was amazed the fit and finish of the parts from team build one parts from ten shops from all parts of the world came together and fit.
> 
> ...



i've never been a big fan of t gauges. i understand the idea of using the same measuring tool to get inside and outside measurements and in a general purpose shop you dont always have an abundance of special indicators but those gauges are kinda sketchy. they rely on force applied to a milled channel to hold two concentric pistons together with friction and some that i have used get wear in the channel and will gravitate to certain dimensions as the rod finds ow spots in the channel. in engine rebuilding shops that are serious about repeatable precision we use dial bore indicators that we calibrate with a 1/10th mic either to an ideal dimension or to the mating part measurment with the same mic. 

i do use t gauges in my own garage because i don't have the budget for a lot of inspection equipment. but i do recommend a dial bore gauge to anyone and if the budget allows it sunnen makes some of the best and some come with setup mics to help ensure you get the gauge setup squarely to the mic anvil and spindle to avoid erroneous setup. 

if the budget doesn't allow for sunnen gauges my friend uses a cheap dial bore gage that he has replaced the indicator with a 1/10th scale starrett indicator. it works reasonably well.


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## dalem9 (Dec 22, 2012)

You can get the 12 inch dig. scale on amazom for 32.99  And the 6 inch for 26.99 DAle


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## AussieJimG (Dec 22, 2012)

I use a micro DRO made from a digital tyre tread depth gauge: http://start-model-engineering.co.uk/category/micro-dro/

It attaches to the lathe (or mill) with magnets.

I need to make some more but at present, one suffices. I just move it around when I need it. It is handy on the lathe and the mill.

Jim


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## Jeff-in-PA (Dec 22, 2012)

goldstar31 said:


> Hoorah, Tin, for your comments. Someone had to tell people the cold fact that a tool that will measure in thous- which will probably have a tolerance of plus or minus a thous or worse but 2 thous. And 2 thous might be too tight-- or a rattling bad fit.
> 
> *So far, no one has mentioned checking your inspection/measuring tooling against a standard.*
> 
> ...


 
 I have my home shop tools calibrated at work. Since they are "back ups" for my main tools at work ( and only a hour round trip if desperately needed ASAP ), the boss is more than happy to let the inspector calibrate them. 

 Plus, most dowel pins are made with a +.0002/-0 tolerance.  Bot as exactly as a jo block or standard but better than nothing.


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 22, 2012)

> in engine rebuilding shops that are serious about repeatable precision we use dial bore indicators that we calibrate with a 1/10th mic either to an ideal dimension or to the mating part measurment with the same mic.



True in the precision grinding shop i worked in we used both dial type and pneumatic comaprators.  And I do have those tools available in the home shop . the pneumatic one needs to be set up the dial I got a good deal on, and it reads in tenths. I try to keep in mind the audience here. this is a hobby and many folks are on a budget. so I tend not to focus too much on specialty tools. so folks a dial bore gage or comparator is a viable option but must be set and adjusted with a known reference. 

there is nothing wrong with having a gage block set as well. but this is a hobby and if on person is making all the mating parts they just need to fit right . if your "inch " is a few thou big or small it dos not matter. but everything should be compared to one standard. 
If you are in manufacturing then you need known accurate references, and if you are involved in a team build things need to be accurate. but to the best of my knowledge there was no true reference when the TB one built there engines and the fit was fantastic. yes I had the cylinder and pistons made in pairs. 
Tin


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## Herbiev (Dec 22, 2012)

Aussie Jim I love the tire gage idea. Just got on http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=350580081508&index=3&nav=SEARCH&nid=83357453331
Digital readout for $1.69 so I got two. I also like the idea of aralditing a neo magnet to the tip to give the push/pull readout. I have no ties with this Ebay site. It was the first one I looked at and being a pensioner, the right price too.


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## Shawn (Dec 23, 2012)

Teus said:


> And I just did today. Works perfect for me, thanks again for the tip



No problem, glad to help.


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## gus (Dec 23, 2012)

goldstar31 said:


> No way, Gus. You are  adding the obvious tolerances each time- and they add up.
> Sorry, but you start at Zero-- and there is only one zero. When the phone rings, when you want a pee, when the boss interferes-- all are different additions to Zero- where you started.



Hi Goldstar( My Big Bro)

1991 we were assembling and shipping hundreds of Ingersoll-Rnad T-30s out of Singapore plant every month. Tested my Corporate HQ boss's claim he would support me and approve w/o questioning my Capital Expediture Requisitions  on new equipment as long as I think it would contribute on margins. Bought the smallest Leblonde 60" between centre Precision Tool Room Lathe so that I could use it during lunch breaks to machine my own stuff. True enough after too many phone calls, the job piece was cut well below critical I.D. Tried machining after office hours but by then Gus was half dead and too many errors. After two more occasions,Gus went home to watch TV.
Have very good precision lathe with "Heidenhahn DRO" and Valenite Carbide Insert Cutters,Mitutoyo Digital Calipers and Mikes and no time and energy to machine.How sad!!!

But we did turn out some very good production equipment and boosted production by 20% with the 8 footer Leblonde and the baby Leblonde along with the full complement of machine tools.

Leblonde Lathe Plant was our neighbour!!!! Never had any problems with same lathe. Gear change was auto hydraulic. Gear box very silent.
But we paid a high price for lathe which was worthwhile.Same lathes ran for 15 years and no problem.


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## dman (Dec 23, 2012)

Tin Falcon said:


> True in the precision grinding shop i worked in we used both dial type and pneumatic comaprators.  And I do have those tools available in the home shop . the pneumatic one needs to be set up the dial I got a good deal on, and it reads in tenths. I try to keep in mind the audience here. this is a hobby and many folks are on a budget. so I tend not to focus too much on specialty tools. so folks a dial bore gage or comparator is a viable option but must be set and adjusted with a known reference.
> 
> there is nothing wrong with having a gage block set as well. but this is a hobby and if on person is making all the mating parts they just need to fit right . if your "inch " is a few thou big or small it dos not matter. but everything should be compared to one standard.
> If you are in manufacturing then you need known accurate references, and if you are involved in a team build things need to be accurate. but to the best of my knowledge there was no true reference when the TB one built there engines and the fit was fantastic. yes I had the cylinder and pistons made in pairs.
> Tin



i've used air gauges in medical manufacturing. they are certainly a specialty item. but a dial bore gauge is in the realm of what a hobbyist could have. i've seen sets for ~$130 and the indicators can be swapped for better ones. you can find deals on ebay if you look. all in all you can have a dial bore gage that reads 1/10ths for less than a 6 pcs 0-6" mic set. ofcoarse you still need the mic to set the indicator. i plan on getting a set soon. 

i used t-gauges in the airforce alot and still do but i don't like them. if it's what you have then work with them, they are certainly better than calipers. but there are certainly alternatives and condition is everything.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 24, 2012)

Hi Gus,
             I was also having a happy thought and it has just dawned on me that I have not worked or should I correct that to- never had to work for the last 28 years.

With advancing age and possible threats of serious malfunctions, I'm merely keeping the grey matter fit with gentle stimulation. Hope that I haven't upset you. 

Meantime, enjoy your fishing in 2013.

Norm


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 24, 2012)

D: there are many options and choices for measuring tools. And what tools are purchased and go in the tool box are a matter of choice. 
What I consider production tools  may differ from others opinion. Things like geometric die heads , tapping heads , turret tail stocks  turret heads for cutting tools etc. even cnc tools are item s that can show up in a hobby shop but were originally more designed for production. Once a guy gets some experience here he will know what to buy and if it is a good value for him or in some cases her. we do have some women. IF someone is building multicylinder engines with many copies of the same part these tolls are valuable. 
I admit I have some of the more advanced  more expensive tools the die head and tapping head I purchased used and I built my cnc. I have a teclock /tachachino seiki tenth bore gage I picked up used. 

I guess what I am trying to say is to say is;
1) machining is adaptive and creative .
2) asks 8 machinist how to make a simple part expect ten different answers
3) this is a hobby for fun. The people will choose what they like and works for them. .What they can afford.  
4) I try ti keep it simple for the beginners we get a lot of folks starting with no tools no experience. I do not want to overwhelm Them with a long expensive tool list.
so it is all good.
Tin


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## gus (Dec 25, 2012)

goldstar31 said:


> Hi Gus,
> I was also having a happy thought and it has just dawned on me that I have not worked or should I correct that to- never had to work for the last 28 years.
> 
> With advancing age and possible threats of serious malfunctions, I'm merely keeping the grey matter fit with gentle stimulation. Hope that I haven't upset you.
> ...



Hi Big Bro.
No offence taken. We are good friends on HMEM.It took me a long time to get used to retiring completely at  58. Today at 69, Gus is expert at retiring with 1001 hobbies.Boating,local,
faraway fishing,aeromodeling,rod building and model engine building.All these hobbies can be cheap if you make it cheap but I go for quality instruments.Grew up and old with Starret,Mitutoyo etc.Bought some Indian Try Squares.They fare better over the chinese made.The Chinese Dial Gage turned OUT OK when first I used it last week.The Chinese Height Gage I bought came with a cheap n nasty box unlike the UK made with a very good strong box.Will DIY my own with USA plywood and post it to rub in the fun.

Merry Christmas.Keep busy. Take care.
Plan to stay on with engine building at 82 & above.


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## GWRdriver (Dec 25, 2012)

Tin Falcon said:


> I try to keep in mind the audience here. this is a hobby


I think this is very important.  For all the usual reasons some us enjoy a greater wealth of tools than others and we can lose sight of how daunting that could be to some, and we don't want to discourage anyone.   I can recall when I viewed even a simple DTI as a luxury which I might enjoy, . . maybe . . someday.   I still haven't gone very far beyond that.   My first mentor (40+ years in tool & die) allowed himself only an ancient Starrett #564 "Junior" indicator in his home workshop.   He wasn't a cheapskate or denying himself, or a Luddite, he just didn't need anything more elaborate to do his usual spectacular work.


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## gus (Dec 26, 2012)

Tin Falcon said:


> When doing precision work know when to take a break and when not to.
> when the part is hot from rough cutting is a good time. when you are trying to get the last cut or two in or taking off the last few thou or the last few tenths is not a good time. it is easey to forget whether or not you dialed in for the last bit and if you are working in tenths things can change while you are on break. it does not take much to move the cross slide 1 ten thousands and that is two tenths on the diameter.
> I worked in a shop where the tolerances could be plus .0003 - 0.000.  a spring pass is all that is needed to take that little bit extra.
> 
> ...



Hi Tin Falcon,

Thanks for the tip. While turning the shaft O.D. of the FireFly I.C. Engine,
I thought i got the required fit between bearing bush and shaft.Remove from
chuck and fit into bush was another unhappy story. Hot shaft and cold shaft.

Now making some DIY tooling and after these,Gus will dive in again to build new engine and get all the required critical fits.


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## lohring (Dec 29, 2012)

A quick update on my cheap DRO.  The cross slide scale reads radii so I did a check on it's accuracy.  I had a piece with two target diameters, .980" and .590".  I machined one diameter to .9805"  The next diameter finished at .5895"  That gives a cross slide travel of .1955".  I set the scale on zero at the larger diameter and it read a travel of .194 at the small diameter.  That may be good enough for some projects and is within the +- .001" advertized accuracy, but I often like things closer as in this case.  

I also machined the length of the .5895 diameter section.  I was not as careful as the length wasn't as critical, but the indicated length on the scale was .220" and it measured .225".  This wasn't as good a test as I didn't face both ends of the piece with the scale set to zero at the first face.  I just ran the tool up to the first face to set zero.  However, I would expect that to be within .002"

As you can see. the accuracy isn't as good as real digital read outs.

Lohring Miller


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## AussieJimG (Dec 30, 2012)

Thanks Lohring, you have just solved a small problem:

When I put two of my "tyre tread" DRO on the cross-slide at the same time, I found a discrepancy of up to 0.03mm between them. I expected plus/minus one LSD (least significan digit) because that is the case with all digital instruments. And now you have suggested an accuracy of plus/minus 0.001" (0.02mm). So worst case, I can expect plus/minus 0.06 difference.

Now I understand.

Jim


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## lensman57 (Dec 30, 2012)

Hi Jim,

Unfortunately this what I experinced with the cheap import digital calipers. The repeatabilty was just not there, they specify this in their charts at plus or minus 0.02 mm which is not good enough for critical work. I found that I get better precision with the Mitutoyo brand but then again it costs 3 times as much.

Regards,

A.G


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## gus (Dec 30, 2012)

lensman57 said:


> Hi Jim,
> 
> Unfortunately this what I experinced with the cheap import digital calipers. The repeatabilty was just not there, they specify this in their charts at plus or minus 0.02 mm which is not good enough for critical work. I found that I get better precision with the Mitutoyo brand but then again it costs 3 times as much.
> 
> ...



Hi A G

How much would a Mitutoyo DRO cost ? Bought a Makita Bandsaw December 2012.Maybe a Mitutoyo in 2013 if my investments gives good profit in 2013.

Or Please advise the best of the cheapie DRO. The "Heidenhan" DRO on the Leblonde gave me good results but  had to watch the cutting tool.Both Leblondes sold when plant shutdown 2001.


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## lensman57 (Dec 30, 2012)

gus said:


> Hi A G
> 
> How much would a Mitutoyo DRO cost ? Bought a Makita Bandsaw December 2012.Maybe a Mitutoyo in 2013 if my investments gives good profit in 2013.
> 
> Or Please advise the best of the cheapie DRO. The "Heidenhan" DRO on the Leblonde gave me good results but  had to watch the cutting tool.Both Leblondes sold when plant shutdown 2001.


 
Hi,

I live in the UK, anything decent costs an arm and a leg, a 12" Chinese made DRO- scale costs about £45.00, the Mitutoyo about £180.00. I managed to get a brand new Absolute Digimatic caliper for less than £60.00, the used ones are going for about £35.00~£40.00 , the Chinese calipers costs anything between £12.00 and £29.00 and they are not bad to be honest but not as accurate as a Mitutoyo in IMHO.

Regards,

A.G


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## lohring (Dec 31, 2012)

The Mitutoyo DRO on my mill easily positions the table within .001".  I mostly use the scales on the lathe to get close.  I think the scales will be fine for lengths.  They still aren't going to substitute for the new cross slide lead screw and the direct reading dials.  

Lohring Miller


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## gus (Dec 31, 2012)

lensman57 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I live in the UK, anything decent costs an arm and a leg, a 12" Chinese made DRO- scale costs about £45.00, the Mitutoyo about £180.00. I managed to get a brand new Absolute Digimatic caliper for less than £60.00, the used ones are going for about £35.00~£40.00 , the Chinese calipers costs anything between £12.00 and £29.00 and they are not bad to be honest but not as accurate as a Mitutoyo in IMHO.
> 
> ...



I paid 90 Pounds for a 12" Mitutoyo Digital  Vernier  Caliper. All the Chinese Verniers I bought been bad.They eat batteries and when battery power is down they flash on and off. But recently I paid S$10 for a Plastic Version just for fun.
It did not eat batteries.


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