# Team Build 8



## dalem9 (Oct 10, 2012)

Has anyone throught about having another team build for this winter . Just wondering ? Dale


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## maverick (Oct 16, 2012)

Dale,
What did you have in mind? One of Elmer's verticle engines might be 
a good choice. Maybe the reversible launch engine. It's not too soon to start a winter project.

Regards,
Maverick


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## Path (Oct 16, 2012)

Dale and Maverick ...

I think that would be great!  

I will look into Elmer's, but what can you tell me?


Pat H.


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## Herbiev (Oct 17, 2012)

It is a bit soon. Winter is 8 months away


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## maverick (Oct 17, 2012)

Herbie,
When you work as slow as I do, 8 months is cutting it thin.
Guys, How about one of Jan Ridders designs. Maybe a flamesucker?
Just thinking out loud.

Maverick


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## Path (Oct 18, 2012)

How about looking into Jan Ridder's MK3 that was just released.

I ask for and got (within a few minutes) a set of great looking drawings.

Take a look!

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f43/atkinson-new-mk3-version-19126/

Then his web site:
http://ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_atkinson_mk3/atkinson_mk3_frameset.htm


Pat


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## maverick (Oct 18, 2012)

Jan makes beautiful engines. The Atkinson would be a challenge,
but not much more than TB6. I think I'll get the drawing from Jan
and look it over carefully. We'll see who's interested and try to 
choose according to the available skill levels.

Maverick


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## ELM6061 (Oct 18, 2012)

Path said:


> How about looking into Jan Ridder's MK3 that was just released.
> 
> I ask for and got (within a few minutes) a set of great looking drawings.
> 
> ...



Just me, or do these links not work?
I am getting "Page Not Found On This Server".
Sorry I am unable to take part, but was interested to have a look at the engine's.
Eddie


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## Jack B (Oct 18, 2012)

I can't get the links to work either                                Jack


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## GailInNM (Oct 18, 2012)

Links corrected in post #6.
Here they are again.

\http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f43/atkinson-new-mk3-version-19126/

http://ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_atkinson_mk3/atkinson_mk3_frameset.htm

Gail in NM


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## Path (Oct 19, 2012)

Oops ...

Thanks for the correction ... guess I pasted wrong!

Pat H


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## ninefinger (Oct 19, 2012)

I am interested - at least this time I know what I'm getting into and I have my lathe so I'm good to go.

I've emailed Jan for the drawings - once I've had a look I'll be able to comment a little more intelligently.  

Mike


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## Jack B (Oct 19, 2012)

The links are working good now. Thanks for posting them.                      Jack


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## maverick (Oct 20, 2012)

I just recieved the drawings from Jan, and I must say this will be a
challenge. If this is picked for the team build, I would favor keeping
the metric dimesions and fasteners as much as possible to eliminate
confusion. Eight to ten team members would be needed, any takers?

Maverick


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## Speedy (Oct 20, 2012)

ever since I joined I wanted to be apart of one, 

if their is a more simpler part you guys want to throw a newbie let me know


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## Path (Oct 24, 2012)

*Speedy*...

I've seen your work ... nice! 
I think you can build anything for the build.  Reconsider and give it a try!

So who is interested?

Dale (dlem9) ............?
Maverick .................?
Mike (ninefingers) .....?
Michael (speedy).......?
Pat H. (path) ...........In

Anyone else??

After looking at the drawings I think there are several areas of concerns:

1. Mini Spark Igniter ... requires electrical modification to a store bought item. Jan does go into detail on how to do that. 
2. Vapor carburetor. Brian Rupnow made an earlier version of the Atkinson and ended up with a conventional carburetor.
3. Buying the glass tube.


*Maverick* ... think your right to keep it in metric. I will be making my own drawing in SW so that I can CNC parts and assemble it.

Comments ...


Pat H.


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## maverick (Oct 24, 2012)

Pat,
I'm good with Jan's Atkinson but should we wait for more members
till the project is choosen or choose the project and see who shows up to build it? If the latter, we can divide the parts into groups to get an 
idea of team size. Your concerns are valid but nothing that can't be 
worked out. I am rather looking forward to building a vapor carburetor
since I read Jans comments on it. 

Regards,
Maverick


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## Path (Oct 24, 2012)

Maverick,

I'm hoping that Dale, Mike and Michael will join in for the team build and others.
Since the post is 2 weeks old and we have had over 500 hundred views (with  duplicates), I think those who are interested in a team build would have inquired about it by now. *But let's give it until say Monday the 29th before we move forward.* Admittedly, I would like to build this Atkinson this time around, but not locked in ... yet!

I don't have any problem just 2 on the team, but would like more. 

Agreed  about those 3 issues that I mentioned ... just a starting point for some discussion. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			






Later,

Pat H


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## ninefinger (Oct 24, 2012)

I think I'll sit this one out if the Jan's Atkinson is selected.  Nothing wrong with it but the more I think about it the less enthusiastic I am about it.  
I'd prefer an air or steam engine again personally as I'd like to be able to run inside without fumigating the place.  Maybe a vertical or horizontal engine with a slide valve...just thinking out loud..

Mike


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## maverick (Oct 25, 2012)

Like Path said, it's not locked in. If a steam engine, a vertical marine
type would be interesting. If anyone has any other ideas, go ahead and 
put them out there. Don't be shy.

Maverick


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## te_gui (Oct 25, 2012)

I'm in. Made bases for a prior team build, but not sure I ever got all the parts from the other folks. Have both conventional and CNC machinery available to me.

Brian


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## Path (Oct 25, 2012)

Brian,

Great glad you are on board!

What do you have in mind to build?

Pat H.


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## te_gui (Oct 25, 2012)

I have been ogling Jan's creations for years, really liking his glass cylinder creations as of late. They may be a little complicated for a team build, but I'm up for the challenge myself. Guess that's my vote then

Brian


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## Jack B (Oct 25, 2012)

Hi : I have been following the thread and if it is OK I will add my two cents. Retiring in 1993 I bring 60 years of machining to the table. Looking at Jan's engine that some of us just got plans for in my opinion it wouldn't be a good choice for a team build. I think it is just to complicated. On the other hand I believe it's a great project for a personal build.
I think a team build should have some challenge but be fun so no one would feel pressured. If I have a vote it would be for a steam engine maybe such as a walking beam engine. Thank's for letting me spout off.             Jack B
I work with old machinery you can see my shop in "The Shop" section. I posted it on 10-11-2011 and it's on about page 4. The title is "Jack's Shop and Museum".

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f15/jacks-shop-museum-15273/


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## Cogsy (Oct 26, 2012)

I'd love to be part of a team build BUT... I'm new to machining and don't have much skill, and I live in Western Australia so postage costs could be an issue. Maybe it'd be better if I wait for the next Aussie/NZ team build.


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## maverick (Oct 26, 2012)

Jack,
Glad to have your opinion here. I would certainly agree had I not worked with some of these fellows on team build 6. That being said , the skill 
levels of ALL team members must taken into account and an appropriate 
project chosen. Part of the fun is kicking around ideas for the build and 
your idea of a walking beam is a good one. The available plans vary from 
beginning to advanced level so there's sure to something suitable.
Hope to have you on the team, your skills would much appreciated.

Regards,
Maverick


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## Path (Oct 26, 2012)

Jack,
Appreciate your input. And thanks for showing us your shop.

Yes, it would be a challenge. As noted there are concerns (probable be more), but with Jan's notes and with his and others help we can do it.

Can you give us some insight as why it would be too difficult? Because so far  I just don't see it.

I haven't build an IC engine yet, so to me this would be great start.
The MK3 is a one cylinder ... that should be easier than say a 4. 
No valves ... that's nice. 
Vapor carburetor ... okay that could be an issue. Or better yet a challenge. Easy to make but could be difficult to adjust ... still worth a try! 
Gears ... haven't made any before but maybe someone on the team has, if not then I would learn.
Spark ... yes that would be really different. But it is well documented.

Think about it some more and join us, we could use your well earned experience. No pressure ....


Pat H.


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## Jack B (Oct 26, 2012)

Gail in NM , Thank you for putting that link on my post to my shop. I didn't know how to do it.

 Hi Pat : I admire people who like to try new things, so I will go along with anything the group decides on. I don't have a metric dial in my shop so I will be busy changing millimeters to inches.  What ever we decide on I will help any way I can                     Jack


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## Jack B (Oct 28, 2012)

Hi Maverick, Dale & Pat: Today I took a closer look at the Jan Ridder engine we have been interested in building.
Here are some things that will have to be bought that I think we have to think about,
Ball Bearings
Graphite to make the piston. By the way if my math is correct it has to be turned to size within Max .00078 in thousands of an inch. Check Explanary Notes #2
We would have to buy a glass cylinder. Jan put a red warning on the print that it *could burst anytime* so safety glasses would have to be on when operating the engine.
We need to buy a timing belt. 
There is also a glass or plastic cylinder needed for the gas tank.

 My vote would be no as a team project. I think we should explore some other projects.         Jack


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## maverick (Oct 30, 2012)

It looks like we need 3 or 4 more team members. Although a few 
potential projects have been discussed, a final choice can't be made until
everyone's skill level and capability are considered. So don't be scared,
team builds are fun and you end up with an engine.
Your input will help determine the pace and "flavor" of the build.

Maverick


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## dalem9 (Nov 1, 2012)

Hi all I've been out of town for the last three weeks so I have a lot of chaching up to do . Thanks for all the intrest. Dalem9


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## rhitee93 (Nov 2, 2012)

Life has kept me away from the forums for a few weeks, but I'd be in for a team build.  I would vote for something on the simpler side just to give the group a better chance of success.  I like a lot of Jan's designs, and am part way through his horizontal stirling.  however, I think something like an Elmer's #29 might be better for a group build.

Either way, I'm with ya


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## joe d (Nov 2, 2012)

Hi 

I've been holding off on this one to give some of the newer guys a chance to get in, as I've played in 4 of the team builds so far (one of which died out...)

Well, you new guys have had your chance... Count Me In!

I must say that I am in agreement with those who are looking for something a bit 
less daunting than Jan's fine engines... they are really good, but I fear that they would be a bit to much for the team build concept.

I would sure like to go for something in a beam engine.

Cheers, Joe


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## Path (Nov 2, 2012)

Okay ... it appears that the group wants to move away from the Atkinson engine. 

I do agree with difficulty factor, as I have said ... we could overcome those issues.
Having said that, there is one issue that does makes the MK3 not a good team build ... cost. Brian Rupnow on a similar engine spent over $150 just for the bearings, about $60 for the belt and sprockets. Other material cost and mailing could be rather expensive. Image making 8 bases and shipping them out. I'm sure some costs could be equally divided between members ... but could be major issue to overcome.

So let's move on ... 

Elmer #29  looks good ... 
Walking Beam .... can we get a specific model?
Other engines that were mentioned ... can we get a specific model?

With a model we can look it over and decided which one to take on...

Now who is still interested in this team build and what do you suggest (please be specific)?


Thanks,

Pat H


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## dreeves (Nov 2, 2012)

Im lurking and may be willing to jump in. What are the engines that are being kicked around. 

Dave


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## rhitee93 (Nov 2, 2012)

Well, the Elmer #24 is a beam engine.  It is a bit plain, but perhaps part of the challenge could be to bling it up a bit.

...and I still with ya for whatever gets picked.


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## maverick (Nov 2, 2012)

Another good choice is Gerry's beam engine. There are a few builds here
and plans in the download section. A few of Elmer's engines have been
mentioned, like #24 and #29. These would be fine as well. I guess we 
come up with a short list and choose from them.

Maverick


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## dreeves (Nov 2, 2012)

I'm in for the build.  I would like to make some simple parts due to work. I also have tons of corian for bases. I vote for some type of beam engine.

Dave


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## Jack B (Nov 3, 2012)

I would like to be part of the team build. Elmer's 24 or 29 or anything like them would be OK with me.                             Jack


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## maverick (Nov 4, 2012)

Some of the possible choices mentioned and their relative difficulty 
(parts count and complexity)

Elmer's #24 Beam  - Low

Elmer's #29 Mine - Moderate

Gerry's Beam  - Highest

Also Brian Rupnow's larger beam engine - Low

There are normally members with a wide range of machining experience
on these teams, and these choices will have suitable parts for each.
Any of these will be fun and be a very nice addition to your collection.

Maverick


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## dalem9 (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi I am interested in this build . I have a mill and lathe and rotary table so I can make some of the more conplex parts . Dalem9


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## joe d (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi

My vote is for Gerry's beam engine, I've wanted to build one ever since
he posted the plans here.

Joe


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## dalem9 (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi After having read this whole post ,I am with the idea of a steam engine. A beam engine is also o.k. with me . Also a way to solve the expense of the brough parts is to have everyone buy their own . Just a thought .Dale


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## Path (Nov 4, 2012)

I also vote for Gerry's Beam Engine. Probably running on air rather than steam but doesn't matter to me. 

I would like to put in at this time a request that I make the side frames. Machining upwards to 8 sets would be difficult to accomplish manually so this would be perfect for CNC. I still would be willing to make other parts depending what was needed ... CNC or not. 

The drawings that I have downloaded do not give all the dimensions (non critical ones are missing), so I will be looking for those elsewhere.
Also, these drawing also do not provide a base ... so that will have looked in to.
Other items may be missing so a good drawing review is needed.


I will using Solidworks for my drawing then convert to g-code. 


Pat H.


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## dreeves (Nov 4, 2012)

Elmers # 29 has been on my list to build for a while if that helps

Dave


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## dreeves (Nov 4, 2012)

If we are doing Gerry's Beam. I got the Rocking Beam and pivot and Beam end Bushings. I am also willing to make the base's in Corian.

Dave


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## dalem9 (Nov 4, 2012)

Dave On the plans what are the number of the parts you want to make . Thanks Dale


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## dreeves (Nov 4, 2012)

Tha plans I have don't have numbered parts. The parts are on sheet #4

Dave


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## dalem9 (Nov 4, 2012)

Dave on yhe plans that you have ,can you yell why the cylinder has an oval shape to it . Dale


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## dalem9 (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi All I am going to be brave here and say that I will make the cylinder , cylinder base and the cylinder head.I should add if this is the engine that is chosen , If this is o.k. with all. Dale


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## dreeves (Nov 4, 2012)

How many are committed to the build?


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## Jack B (Nov 4, 2012)

Hi Sorry to say it but I have to back out befor I start. A very good friend asked me to do a project for him today that will require most of my time. So someone else can grab my spot.
Jack B


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## dalem9 (Nov 4, 2012)

I am committed ,Dalem9


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## joe d (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm in.

Joe


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## dreeves (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm in that makes 4 so far with path.  

Dave


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## maverick (Nov 4, 2012)

I'm in as well. If we make Gerry's beam, I will do the flywheels,
crankshafts and most likley several other parts. There are approx.
60 separate parts, with multiples of some. Even with ten team members
that's a lot of parts per person. I suggest a few major parts and several smaller parts each. These would be linkages, pins, spacers, etc. 
   Are we using the metric plans or imperial? The metric plans do not
include a base, not sure about the imperial. We can also discuss fasteners
and if we want to supply them individually.
   Based on prior team builds, communication is a good thing. Talking with
others about mating parts, fits and tolerances will pay off during assembly.   
This will be a very ambitious project, and as a hobby, good results rather
than speed will make it more enjoyable.

Regards to all,
Maverick


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## Path (Nov 5, 2012)

Let's see if we can settle on an engine ... I propose Gerry's Beam Engine using imperial units. Anyone else?

Plans are available in the download section ... link:
OldBoatGuys_Engine_Plan.pdf

If you don't use this link be sure to download the version with the word ".... Plan" (it has 19 pages),
not ".... Plans" (it has 16 pages, missing 3 pages).

don-tucker has a build thread at:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/gerrys-beam-engine-8763/ to follow along.

So far we have 5 members could use a few more ....

Pat H.


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## rhitee93 (Nov 5, 2012)

I'm in.  

With the access I have to a water jet, the frames would be simple for me to do, as would a number of other parts.


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## dreeves (Nov 5, 2012)

Im With you on Gerry's Beam. Im willing to make more part if needed.

Dave


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## chucketn (Nov 5, 2012)

I would like to eventually build Gerry's Beam, but there are so many parts I don't have a clue how to make. Don't yet have taps smaller than 4-40, no laser cutter, etc., etc. Have thought a lot about building this engine with a wood frame, as my skills aren't up to machining the frames as designed.
Will you be using the original plans or redesigning parts to make them simpler?
But I will follow along with the build.

Chuck


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## maverick (Nov 5, 2012)

Chuck,
We will use the plans from the link in message #57. There are a lot of small bits and pieces that could be done on your machines. Think about it.

Regards,
Maverick


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## chucketn (Nov 5, 2012)

Maverick, that's the plans I have. I'll study them some more and see what I have tools and material for. Not committed yet, but thinking about it.
Still watching...

Chuck


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## dalem9 (Nov 5, 2012)

Hi All I like Gerry beam engine in imperial units also , I would also be willing to make more parts I have very few metric taps and dies , but have about every imperial size . Maybe some one who is a beginner will join this group and make some of the simpler parts . Dale


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## dreeves (Nov 8, 2012)

We are still looking for a few more to jump in with this team build. Don't be shy there are some hard parts but lots of less hard part down to simple turned parts. It's taken me 2 plus years to get involved in a team build and can't wait to get it started.  

Dave


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## ninefinger (Nov 8, 2012)

I will sign up to Gerry's beam engine as the team build choice.  How are we proposing dividing up the work?

BTW I can volunteer for stuff that requires milling as I have a CNC mill available to me and also a manual lathe.  I think I'd be happy doing something like the bearing blocks and caps; eccentric strap, rod and clevis; etc. more if needed too.  BTW who do we call the team captain?

Mike


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## Path (Nov 8, 2012)

This is my third team build ... so if there aren't any objections I will give it a shot. 

Tomorrow I will go through the thread and list those that have shown an interest in being a team member. If they have also expressed what parts they would like to build will include that. Finally, I will group parts that probably should be built together.

This will get us going for more *discussion*.  I won't be available this weekend to answer any questions but I will be ready Monday. 


Pat H.


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## dreeves (Nov 8, 2012)

Pat it will be great to have you with us as you have experience in team builds.  

Dave


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## maverick (Nov 8, 2012)

Good to have you at the wheel Pat. Parts groups would be a great way to
help team members choose parts that fit their machines and skill level.
I'll take the flywheel and crankshaft if thats OK?  I'll pick some more parts from the list after others choose their parts.

Regards,
Mike


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## dreeves (Nov 8, 2012)

I can do the parts on sheet 4. The rocking beam and misc parts. I also have lots of corian in several colors for bases. I'm also willing to pickup a few more simple parts if needed.

Dave


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## joe d (Nov 8, 2012)

I'm pretty easy regarding what parts, I'll wait for the groups of parts to be defined, and let people have a chance to pick what they are comfortable with,
and then pick out of what's left.

Joe


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## rhitee93 (Nov 9, 2012)

I'm in for whatever works best for the team.  If it helps with the planning, some parts that would be pretty simple for me to make in quantity would be:

Steam chest cover
Valve link bell crank
side frames
beam parallel links

I could also do the eccentric, but would probably struggle a bit making all of the straps, so maybe I could send the eccentrics to whomever makes the straps?

I'm looking forward to this!


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## Path (Nov 10, 2012)

Okay we are on our way ...

I would like to call this build ... Team Build #8 2012.
This team is building Gerry's Beam Engine.
Drawings that we will be using are available at :
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/downloads/oldboatguysengineplanpdf-125.html


We have 7 members and one undecided at this time. 

They are:

        dalem9 .......        Dale       
dreeves.......         Dave
joe d             .......... Joe       
Maverick ......Maverick 
      ninefinger.....    Mike  
Path ...........  Pat H. 
      rhitee93.......        Brian

Undecided :
chucketn.....       Chuck        

There are several parts that still needs to be build .... so we could use a few more members ....

So far I have assigned an Item Number and Part Number to each part.
Made a Excel spread sheet showing what each team member has expressed an interest in building. 
This also shows what needs to be made.

Here is short list of what is still open:

Connecting rod page 7
Eccentric page 10
Steam Chest, valve and rod etc page 12
Piston, rod , gland page 13
All of page 14 except Valve Link Bellcrank (zone B4)
All of page 15 except Beam Parallel Links (zone B4)

A more detail list and the Excel spreadsheet will be posted Monday afternoon.

So Joe and Chuck take a look and see what you want to build.
Anyone else interested? Now's the time to join. 

Later,
Pat H.


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## chrispare (Nov 10, 2012)

I'll do these parts if available.*
I'm hope ing that it'll give me some ambition to finish the previous build.*


Valve stem offset post*
Bell rank mounting post
Piston rod

Frame spacers? Are they taken yet?

Chris.*


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## ausdier (Nov 10, 2012)

I have virtually just finished the model from these plans.
Get it virtually............virtual engine..............Rof}Rof}Rof}Rof}


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## chrispare (Nov 10, 2012)

Very nicely done!
What cad you using?


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## chucketn (Nov 10, 2012)

I've decided to bow out on this one. My abilities aren't yet up to a team build. But I will follow the build closely, lending what moral support I can.

Chuck


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## ausdier (Nov 10, 2012)

Thanks Chris.
This was drawn with Inventor (2009 I think) normally I use 2012 but my other laptop is away being repaird.

PS, thanks a lot larry1.


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## maverick (Nov 11, 2012)

Nice to see you here Chris, This should be a good project.

Pat will most likely answer this question with his next post,
but how many engines are we making?
 And now for a quick poll.
The plans call for a brass flywheel but that will get kind of expensive.
How about 304 stainless? It will have some contrast, but not as much
as brass. Maybe steel with blue or black oxide? Any other ideas?
The crankshaft will be steel as well as some other bits, so they will match
somewhat. I can also pick another part or two after everyone else picks
thiers.

Regards,
Maverick


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## ninefinger (Nov 11, 2012)

Hi Maverick,

The drawings show the flywheel as Steel, Iron or Bronze - so I would personally pick steel from a cost perspective, and 304 SS is also a nice choice if you don't have issues machining stainless.

I to am willing to sign up to a few more small bits and pieces once Pat puts his list out.

Cheers,

Mike


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## maverick (Nov 11, 2012)

Mike,
Your right, I was looking at the metric print for a little more detail on the 
flywheel. Steel would be cheap but there is a rust problem, maybe paint
or laquer?

Maverick


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## chucketn (Nov 12, 2012)

Path, have you done up the spreadsheet of spoke for parts? I'm still on the fence about joining the build. 
The only metric tap I have is M6, to match the majority of screws on my lathe and mill, and no die for M6. The smallest imperial tap and die I have is 6-32.
I have some nice turning shafting salvaged from old inkjet printers. I can turn shafts and such and am looking at the cylinder covers as a possibility as I have some 1 1/2"brass bar ends for those.

Chuck


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## Path (Nov 12, 2012)

Chuck,

Yes, I've working on it most the day and about to post it (once I figure that out)!

In your last post you did say that you were bowing out. So I don't have you listed
for any parts. The ones you did mention have been taken. So once I do get the list up let's see what the team members pick and go from there.


Pat H.


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## Path (Nov 12, 2012)

Team members ...
We now 8 team members (with the addition of chrispare) .... with the possibility of a ninth member chucketn. 

*So how many engines do we build?
* 
From what I have read it's usually the number of team member plus 1.
The extra one goes to shows then auctioned off with the proceeds contributed to a worthy cause. Or something along those lines. I think that's great and would support that effort. However, I don't have the connections nor the means to pull that together. Someone on the team would need to take on that  assignment. Volunteer?

*About the grouping and the Excel spreadsheet.

*So far the groupings are coming along together pretty good.  

I would have like to see the Piston and Cylinder assembly made by the same builder. Looking at page 16 the cylinder assembly .... everything needs to be as concentric as possible so that no binding takes place. With two different builders that may not be so easy. Solution ... would *chrispare* and *dalem9* take a look and see if you could build say 5 assemblies each? If not ... that's okay. Just a thought. Other suggestions are welcomed. 

If not ... *chris* ...then would you take on Item 23,25, 29? *delem9* could you pick up a few more items left over (say page 12)?

*Ninefinger* ...I see that you have signed up for the Eccentric Strap (item 17), it would be great if you would include the Eccentric (item 14)?

*Joe_d *... now the time choose ... page 7 item 8-11 and/or  page 12 item 18-21 or maybe page 15.

*rhitee93* can up pick a few additional items on page 15 or maybe page 7, 12.

After this go around will take another look ... if anyone wants to swap anything ... post it and see what the other team members can/will do.

Now I'm going to try and post the Excel spreadsheet ....


Pat H.


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## Path (Nov 12, 2012)

Here's the Excel stuff ... 

View attachment Team Build 8 details.xlsx


Hey it worked !!

Now for some notes ...
I assigned the Item Number starting with page 3 (item 1), next page going from top
left to right then bottom left to right (most cases) on each page.
Assemblies were not counted (see page 16 for example).

Hardware will come later.

If you have any suggestions on format let me know ... can and will make changes.


Later,

Pat H.


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## dalem9 (Nov 12, 2012)

Pat I will let chuck do the cyl.ends if he would like . Cyl are going to be a lot of work by them self . Dale


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## dalem9 (Nov 12, 2012)

Pat I can make the piston to. and also the ends to .Sorry for the mix . I can make 5 of the entire cyl asemble if you want me to .  Dale


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## chrispare (Nov 12, 2012)

I am not set for any milling as of yet so the cylinder would be a bit much to handle right now, but since there must be a o-ring it shouldnt be a problem being done by seperate people? 
as for me doing the other parts, it shouldnt be a problem.


----------



## ninefinger (Nov 12, 2012)

Pat,

No problem - I can do the eccentric as well (part #8014).  I'll wait and see how the rest shapes up and if needed I can chip in with a few more of the bits not spoken for yet.

Mike


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## chucketn (Nov 13, 2012)

I would like to participate in the team build, if it is still possible. If not, please say so, and I'll understand. I had an attack of "I'm not good enough..." Can't improve without a challenge, right?
I downloaded the spread sheet and see that pages 7, 12, and 15 are not assigned. Is that correct?
Also figured out after scratching my head a while, that pages 7,18, and 19 were missing from the origional downloaded plan. Got that sorted out.
Need a suggestion for a reasonably priced tap and die set for 2-56. My local sources don't cary anything that small.

Chuck


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## dreeves (Nov 13, 2012)

Do a search for MSC supply they have lots of machine tools and material. They ship next day to most areas.

Dave


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## rhitee93 (Nov 13, 2012)

Let's make it easy, since you have the side frames,  just put me down for all of page 15.


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## dalem9 (Nov 13, 2012)

Pat I will say that I will make 10 of page 9 and the cyl. heads and glands on page13 ,  if I can get this done I will make more . I am going to try to get this started today . The cyl. will be of bronze and the heads and glands of brass if this is o.k. . I hope  this helps in your planing . Thanks Dale


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## chucketn (Nov 13, 2012)

Anyone used a "screw plate" to cut threads? I'm looking at this set:

http://www.nationaljewelerssupplies.com/p/ETTAP135.html

Chuck


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## Path (Nov 13, 2012)

Okay here is an update ...

*chucketn* ... welcome aboard.  Glad you decided to join us. 
Although page 15 has been assigned, page 7 and 12 are up for grabs. In my opinion,
page 7 is the less critical of the two. So let me know  ... would like to close it out.

*chrispare* ... okay we'll give it a try.   I have moved item 23 to *dalem9* as it makes sense to make it with the cylinder head.

*ninefinger* ... thanks for taking on the Eccentric now those will match perfect. 

*rhitee93* ... okay page 15 is yours.   Is it okay that item 26 (Valve Link Bellcrank) and item 36 (Steam Chest Cover) are still yours?

*dalem9* ... Looks like you are all set ... the material selection is perfect. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





*joe d* ... where are you? 

I will update the Excel spreadsheet after I hear back on the above.


Pat H.


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## chucketn (Nov 13, 2012)

O.K. I'm in for page 7 and page 12.

Chuck


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## rhitee93 (Nov 13, 2012)

I'm good with all of page 15, as well as Items 26 and 36.  (Bell crank and steam chest cover)


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## Path (Nov 13, 2012)

*chuchetn*

Wait ...* joe d* has an input still ... your good for page 7 and if he declines page 12 ... then that can be yours also.
But are you sure?  ... that would be lot of parts?

*rhitee93* ... thanks.


Pat H.


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## chucketn (Nov 13, 2012)

Sorry, forgot about Joe d. Page 7 is still good.

Chuck


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## dalem9 (Nov 13, 2012)

Pat the plans I have do not # the parts , can you tell me what part # 23 is . Thanks Dale


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## chucketn (Nov 13, 2012)

Are we at liberty to modify the parts design to simplify? Or would the proper protocall be to suggest the modification to the team and get a vote on it? 
For example, the crankshaft connecting rod assembly on page 7 would be easier to make if the left end of the connecting rod was threaded 10-32 or 8-32 and the connecting rod bearing mad a little longer and tapped to fit on the end of the connecting rod. What is the purpose of the keeper plate, other than another detail? I don't have silver soldering capability.
This is something I would do if I were building on my own.

Chuck


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## Path (Nov 13, 2012)

dalem9 ...

Item number 23 is the Cylinder Rod Packing Gland found on page 13 zone B1.
It's also the Cylinder sub assembly on page 16 zone B3, its mounted oo the Top Cylinder Head item 22.

You should download the Excel sheet...  that is where all the Item Numbers, builders and other information.

Pat H.


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## maverick (Nov 13, 2012)

Chuck,
The con rod big end is designed the same as full sized steam engines of that period.
the rod and keeper were steel and had a 2 part &quot;brass&quot; sandwiched between them.
This design allowed adjusting a worn bearing and would be a nice detail to have on
the model.
I think it best to propose any big changes to the team and see what the consensus is.
Small changes to simplify or embellish parts shouldn't be a  problem but it's always 
good to communicate. I'm thinking of a 6 spoke flywheel rather than the 8 spoke  in
the drawings because the 8 spoke looks too thick and heavy, any comments?

Regards,
Maverick


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## dalem9 (Nov 13, 2012)

Hi Pat yes I am going to make the packing gland ; Every thing is going along well , you are doing a good job ! Dale


----------



## dalem9 (Nov 13, 2012)

Pat Also were do I go to see the same plans as you. Dale


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## Path (Nov 13, 2012)

*dalem9 ...*

The plans are : (see also thread #72)
http://homemodelenginemachinist.com/downloads/oldboatguysengineplanpdf-125.html

The Excel  is here: (see also thread #84)
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist...52767331-team-build-team-build-8-details.xlsx

  The spreadsheet has not been updated for assignments, I will update probably tomorrow. However, the item numbers etc are okay.

*Chuck and Maverick* ... I agree ... need to suggest changes before hand. I would like to keep that detail. However, if you want yours to be changed I don't see why not  ... after all it is yours! 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




Silver solder ... I can do mine and others if necessary. 

The flywheels ... *6* spokes will look great.  << Edit

Pat H.


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## chrispare (Nov 14, 2012)

I must be missing something here but what gets silver soldered?
Also I was thinking of using stainless for the pistons ( would that be an issue?)
Chris


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## Path (Nov 14, 2012)

Chris,
Item 27 (Valve Stem) is silver soldered to item 29 (Valve Link Rod)
according to the note on page 14 zone B3 .
But it is not clear to me as to why ... since it is bolted. Maybe for additional mechanical strength.

Additionally there seems to be fit issue with those parts (.087 hole vs .093 pin). Looks like that area needs to be looked into for clarification.

Maybe someone would comment on that.


Instead of Brass for the Piston ... stainless would be the way to go. 


Pat H.


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## joe d (Nov 15, 2012)

Hi guys

sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I've been out of town since Monday.

I'm happy with page 12, leaving page 7 for Chuck.

Joe


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## chucketn (Nov 15, 2012)

Now I am scared! I just noticed most of the group are POM winners! Hope I can make muster!

Chuck


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## chrispare (Nov 15, 2012)

Chuck, the whole purpose of a team build is not to have this stunning project in the end ( although is a bonus)
It's to challenge yourself ion parts that you can do and the challenge of having 10 guys in different parts of the world build pieces of something and being able to put it all together working. Also the making of new friends. 

You will do just fine, 
Chris


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## Path (Nov 15, 2012)

Okay *joe d *is taking on page 12 items 18,19,20 and 21. 

With that I have updated the Excel spreadsheet ...

View attachment Team Build 8 details.xlsx


It should say November 15, 2012  rev1


Pat H.


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## maverick (Nov 15, 2012)

Thanks for the update Pat. I looked at the parts you mentioned in post #107 and don't have a definite answer. The drawing shows the valve spindle #18 and valve stem offset post #27 screwed together and silver soldered. Must be for reinforcement. The valve link rod #29 must pivot at both ends, so one of the dimensions is off. There should be a few thousandths of play between them.
The stock for the crankshafts is ready to machine but the oxygen bottle needs filled before the silver soldering will happen. Still mulling over
options for the flywheels. There's a hunk of bar holding open the shop door that might work, We'll see.

Regards,
Maverick


----------



## Path (Nov 15, 2012)

Thanks for your input Maverick ... 

I had Item 27 silver soldered to Valve Spindle (18 ) but the wording on page 16 made me change it.   
Also in don-tucker build thread in post 46 picture clearly shows a soldering process.
The  Pin diameter  (#27) (.093) I would leave as is and change the hole (on 18 ) size to .0938  (drill 3/32") or .0935" drill # 42. 
Or better yet a 3/32 reamer since there is a lot of rubbing.




Path said:


> Chris,
> Item 27 (Valve Stem) is silver soldered to item 29 (Valve Link Rod)
> according to the note on page 14 zone B3 .
> But it is not clear to me as to why ... since it is bolted. Maybe for additional mechanical strength.
> ...




Pat H.


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## chrispare (Nov 15, 2012)

I think that the solder is to make sure nothing comes loose during operation. 
I will make sure that the pin and rod fit ( i believe those are are the ones I am making) 
On a different note the pistons, I have spent the better part of the evening attempting to do make one outta stainless, well my toolong is not liking it at all so... do we want Brass or Steel as the plans call for?


----------



## Path (Nov 15, 2012)

Chris ...

Super and yes you are making those two parts ... thanks. 

What type of SS are you trying to turn ... if it's 304 it can be a problem. SS 303 is not nearly as bad but does work harden.

In any case, I like Brass as it will not rust over time. 

Pat H.


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## chrispare (Nov 15, 2012)

Im not sure what it is, but my hss bits pretty much make alotta noise heat and dont cut very well.
oh well I tried, Ill do it brass.


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## dreeves (Nov 15, 2012)

Do you guys see any reason why the spreader bars on sheet 4 can't be made of aluminum? I plan on getting started on parts this weekend.

Dave


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## joe d (Nov 15, 2012)

Dave

I can't see any reason that you can't make the spreaders in ali.

Got material ordered, now the annoying waiting for delivery phase before 
I can start making parts.

Joe


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## dreeves (Nov 15, 2012)

I agree but wanted to check with others. I got the material for the rocker and pivot but will order the aluminum and brass for the other parts.  I will get pictures of the corian I have and we can pick which will look good.  

Dave


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## Path (Nov 16, 2012)

Dave ...

The only issue with Aluminum for the spreader bars is stripping those small 2-56  threads. 

Pat H.


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## chucketn (Nov 16, 2012)

Just to keep up, total build # is 10? Nine team members and 1 to auction?

I have to go out today in search of a blade for my 4x6 bandsaw and a 2-56 tap.  Most likely will end up having to order them online.

Hoping for warmer weather today and over the weekend to be able to get into the shop. I work out of an unheated garage...

Chuck


----------



## Path (Nov 16, 2012)

Path said:


> Team members ...
> We now 8 team members (with the addition of chrispare) .... with the possibility of a ninth member chucketn.
> 
> *So how many engines do we build?
> ...



Do we have a volunteer to handle the auction? Will close this item out ... say Saturday (11/17/2012) at noon Calif time.


Pat H.


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## chrispare (Nov 16, 2012)

Pat I will volunteer for the auction as I still have the last one to do. 
I could do them both at once. Unless there is someone else who would like to?


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## maverick (Nov 17, 2012)

Chrispare,
I wouldn't mind building it but I have no auction connection and don't
know how to go about this.

Maverick


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## chrispare (Nov 17, 2012)

you dont need an auction connection 
I was just going to auction it off on here and possibly over on another board as well


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## chrispare (Nov 17, 2012)

Dale the piston rod gland, are you going to make it the the size on the plans?


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## dreeves (Nov 17, 2012)

I got into the shop today and got started on the rockers. I was able to get them into blanks with all the holes. I then built a fixture to hold them in the CNC. I hope to get the pockets cut into them on Sunday in between watching the Eagles get beat.
then on Friday get the outside cut. I will post more pictures as I cut more parts

Dave


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## chucketn (Nov 18, 2012)

Wish I had CNC but that is way beyond my abilities or budget.


I got my band saw straightened out, had to install a new blade, clean, allign,  and adjust the guide bearings. 

Now I'm ready to start on parts. I have 3 pieces of 1 7/8&#8221; brass bar ends about 3&#8221; long. I'm trying to figure out the best way to get 10 pieces  .500 x .250 x .500 from them for the crank bearing, while minimising waste.

Also, what is the easiest way to build the connecting rod? Can I not make the basic rod from 3/16 steel rod and have some one silver solder on a flat piece for the square end? I do not have facility to silver solder.

I have never made anything this small,or this complex.

Chuck


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## ninefinger (Nov 18, 2012)

chucketn said:


> Now I'm ready to start on parts. I have 3 pieces of 1 7/8 brass bar ends about 3 long. I'm trying to figure out the best way to get 10 pieces  .500 x .250 x .500 from them for the crank bearing, while minimising waste.
> 
> Chuck



Chuck,

You would probably be best off planning to make a few more parts than the minimum required.  I found on the team build I did before this one that I scrapped quite a few pieces on the way to getting 10 good ones.  So this time I'm aiming to start out with roughing out 15 pieces and hopefully I'll get more than 10 good ones by the time I'm done putting holes in them in all the wrong places.

Mike


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## dreeves (Nov 18, 2012)

Chuck, I'm new to cnc and still climbing the steep learning curve.  Don't let the parts overwhelm you. Just make one piece at a time and before you know it your done. 

Dave


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## joe d (Nov 18, 2012)

chucketn said:


> Also, what is the easiest way to build the connecting rod? Can I not make the basic rod from 3/16 steel rod and have some one silver solder on a flat piece for the square end? I do not have facility to silver solder.
> 
> I have never made anything this small,or this complex.
> 
> Chuck



Chuck:

That is a perfectly reasonable approach to the part.  I would suggest that you make the flat piece oversize, and then once it is soldered in place you can chuck the rod in the lathe and face the flat bit to dimension, this will ensure that it is perpendicular to the axis of the rod, and will also shave off the crud that results from the soldering!  If your chuck is easily removable, and you have the head-room in your mill , once you have faced the part, leave it in the chuck to sit it on the table of the mill or DP to drill the holes for the bolts that hold on the big end, and to bring the sides and ends down to size.

(That's just how I would do it, many other ways to skin this cat, no doubt.)

Cheers, Joe


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## maverick (Nov 18, 2012)

Chuck,
It helps to sort out the order of operations, select the most appropriate
tools available and even design and build fixtures that make multiple parts 
much quicker and easier. Having an overall outlook on building the part will take a lot of the worry out and keep Murphy from showing up.
Also, posting a specific question here will get an answer or two.
Look at this as a good opportunity to advance skills and add enjoyment
to your hobby. As far as the conrod, I can silver solder the pieces if You
decide to make it in 2 pieces.
           Planning for maximum material yield is a worthwhile skill for
frugal people like me and ensures the growth of my offcut pile, which I would be glad to share with team members for this build. The shafting for the crankshaft will be from stock thats been sitting around for over 20 years.
It should be well seasoned by now. 

Regards,
Maverick


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## aonemarine (Nov 18, 2012)

Hello, complete newbe to the form but was wondering if there is anything left for me to do so I can get involved too.....


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## dalem9 (Nov 18, 2012)

Chria I have not looked at that yet . but I will make it what ever size you ask , All so the piston will have to be made smaller then .500 .Thanks Dale


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## Path (Nov 18, 2012)

Chris  has volunteered to assemble and auction off one of the engines.
So we need to make enough parts for 10 units. 

When it comes time to ship your parts mail 2 sets to Chris.

Pat H.


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## Path (Nov 18, 2012)

aonemarine,

Sorry but currently all parts are taken. But keep checking back, never know ... someone may have to  drop out. 


Pat H.


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## aonemarine (Nov 18, 2012)

Path said:


> aonemarine,
> 
> Sorry but currently all parts are taken. But keep checking back, never know ... someone may have to drop out.
> 
> ...


 
  No problem, ill keep an eye on the post. Might give it a go solo as well but dang there is alot of little pieces!!


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## chrispare (Nov 19, 2012)

Ok so the piston I'll make 10-15 thou smaller and the oring will be a nice fit for .500. Will that be ok?


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## Path (Nov 19, 2012)

Okay, now that we have a few things out of the way we need make a few more decisions namely:

Hardware ... I suggest that we supply our own. That way each team member can decide whether to make or buy the nuts/bolts and  what style.

Schedule ... lots of parts need to be made so how about shipping parts by February  28, 2013. This gives us a little over 3 months. With the holidays coming  up we all will be very busy with family, so maybe we should extend it a few more weeks?

Comments ...


Pat H.


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## chrispare (Nov 19, 2012)

That is reasonable time to shoot for. 
As for hardware supplying our own is ok with me.


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## chucketn (Nov 19, 2012)

I would like to try my hand at silver soldering. Can anyone suggest a source for solder and flux? I am familiar with the process, just never done hard soldering. Taught electronics high reliability soldering in the USAF, and remember my Dad soldering with an acetaline/air torch many years ago. I even have his torches and acetaline bottle. Only problem is the hose for the torch has dry rotted to the point I won't use it. I do have a mapps gas/propane torch that should work. I don't want to invest a fortune in hard soldering equipment as I don't know how often it would be used.
Also a source for fire brick to make a soldering hearth.

Chuck


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## dreeves (Nov 19, 2012)

I'm good with the time as well as our own hardware

Dave


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## joe d (Nov 19, 2012)

Chuck

for solder stuff try these guys  http://sra-solder.com/section.php/113/1/brazing

I'm in with supplying my own fasteners, and the time limit looks good too.

Joe


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## maverick (Nov 20, 2012)

Chuck,
A good source of fire brick is a pottery studio. They sometimes have broken
pieces that they use to put shelves on when they load the kiln. As far as 
silver solder, the link that joe d provided looks good. Silver solder with 
cadmium flows much better and used in small amounts is not a health risk.
Choose a solder with a melting point of 1100 to 1200 degrees. The lower 
temp will allow the solder to melt before the flux burns and there is less chance of damaging your parts.

Regards,
Maverick


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## dreeves (Nov 20, 2012)

To any off the cnc guys out there does anyone have the hmem logo in g code or something I can import into cambam to use on our team build? Second question which number is this team build?

To the team build members I will post some pictures of the colors of corian I have.

Dave


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## Path (Nov 20, 2012)

Dave,

This is Team Build 8.

I don't have any code, but when I'm cutting the Frames I was thinking about putting on the side ... HMEM Team Build 8    2012 Serial number of 1 of 10 (2 of 10 etc). Also adding  the Team Member's  name on it (just a thought). 

What do think?

Pat H.


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## dreeves (Nov 20, 2012)

Thats great. I was thinking on putting something in the corian but on the frame is good as well. I did a quick solid build in autocad of the project and looks like the base will be around 5 3/8 wide by 8 1/4 long. I that will give about 1 inch all around the entire engine with the width 1 inch past the widest part of the crank to be stable. Im going to check what size shipping boxes are close so the size may be a little smaller.

Dave


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## dreeves (Nov 20, 2012)

These are the colors I have in Corian. The only one I have that will give me 10 is the sample of E. Im will to take requests for colors.
 Here is A-E
A -2 Bases
B- 3 Bases
C- 4 Bases
D- 6 Bases
E- 10 Bases

I will check to see if I can find some darker colors
Dave


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## maverick (Nov 20, 2012)

Dave,
I would like to request a base made from B. As far as the G code, I drew up the HMEM logo for the 3 cylinder team build. I can send it in any cad format
or G code. Will it need to be a certain size or can you scale it?

Regards,
Maverick


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## joe d (Nov 20, 2012)

Hi

I really like the idea of our names & a serial number as well as the "Team Build #8" & HMEM logo.

Dave:  Not picky at all as to which corian I get, they all look good to me.

Joe


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## dreeves (Nov 20, 2012)

Maverick I have autocad 2004 and use cambam . I am new to the cambam but good at autocad.  If you could send me a dxf file that would be good.  Psc at aol.com


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## chucketn (Nov 21, 2012)

I have a couple of questions on my parts on sheet 7. 
1. Connecting rod at A3. The flat piece on the left end is .o62 thick?

2. Con rod bearing shown at A2. Drawing states drill & ream .250 as a pair. Should I do this as one piece and slit after reaming? Same detail, what is the meaning of the symbol between 0.089 and 0.750 on call out for hole for hex head screw?

3. I don't see an overall length for rod clevis at 1B.

Could one of the more experienced folks clarify these for me, please?

Chuck


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## Path (Nov 21, 2012)

Chuck, 

Glad you asked I just finished making drawings in Solidworks so I should be able to help.

1. If you are referring to Keeper Plate item 11 (zone 1A) then yes .062 or 1/16" will do.

2.That symbol denotes the depth of the hole. In this case all the way through. The .75 is an error. The drilling and reaming needs to be done as a single piece after the slitting. If slitting is not done before ... the hole will not be concentric or the correct diameter.

3.The missing length (left of the .282) is not critical. So what I did is measured it (on the drawing) and scaled it up, I came up with .3 .  So the overall length is:   .3 + .282 +.125 (radius given from the hole to the edge) = .707 .   Note that .707 is not the important dimension the individual ones are with the .3  least important.

Just as a note I found a lot of missing measurements ... and scaling up was the way I got the answer and most were not critical .. kinda left up to the builder.

Except one on the frames ... which I will go into later.


Hope this helps,

Pat H


----------



## chucketn (Nov 21, 2012)

Thanks Pat. I'll go with your dimentions.

Chuck


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## dalem9 (Nov 21, 2012)

Hi I like the B base . Thanks Dale


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## dreeves (Nov 21, 2012)

I plan on cutting the bases on Saturday so let me know what you want or I will just get them done. I have a few already for the B only one of that color left.


Dave


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## Path (Nov 21, 2012)

If you don't find any darker ones, I will take B also.


Thanks,

Pat H


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## chucketn (Nov 21, 2012)

Dave, I'm not fussy on base color. What ever is easy. I think this engine will look good on what ever you come up with!

Chuck


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## chrispare (Nov 21, 2012)

I will be good with whatever I get for the base. 

I have got one piston and shaft done.
The shaft is on spec .157 +- .003
( my lathe has a few thou taper unfortunately )
The piston I did .490 hope that is ok Dale ?
The oring will be a snug fit into .500 bore

Chris


----------



## dreeves (Nov 21, 2012)

Looking good 

Dave


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## Path (Nov 21, 2012)

Chris,

If I may ... would give me the dimensions of the Piston and what O-ring are you using...  maybe a 012?


Thanks

Pat H


----------



## dreeves (Nov 21, 2012)

Question to mods can the name of this thread be changed to team build 8 without deleting the info in it?

Dave

Name changed -- Gail in NM


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## chrispare (Nov 22, 2012)

Path the piston is .490 on the outer edges and 
I believe I went to .435 on the oring grove ( I will have to double chech when I get home)
I'll check on the oring but I am pretty sure it is a #11 the 12 would be too big on the outer diameter I think anyway. 
I will get a rough measurement on the oring when installed for you too.


----------



## Path (Nov 22, 2012)

Thanks ... also the grove dimension for the O-ring (drawing has it as .067") which is too small for this O-ring.

Thanks,

Pat H


----------



## dalem9 (Nov 22, 2012)

That will be fine . I will bore as close to .500 as I can .  The name change is a good Idea . If it can be done , Thanks Dale


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## chrispare (Nov 22, 2012)

Ok the ring grove is .420 the piston is .490 and.070wide
With the ring installed it is about .530 when it makes contact. The ring is a #011
Finished piston will still be the same .187 so as to not have to worry about any Interference issues.

Chris


----------



## chucketn (Nov 23, 2012)

I'm working on cutting material today.Can I use stainless for the connecting rod keeper plate? I havs quite a bit in 1/16 stock. At least I'm guessing it's stainless. It's not aluminum but it's also non magnetic.

Chuck


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## Path (Nov 23, 2012)

Chuck,

Yes, SS would be great.  


Pat H.


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## Path (Nov 23, 2012)

chrispare said:


> Ok the ring grove is .420 the piston is .490 and.070wide
> With the ring installed it is about .530 when it makes contact. The ring is a #011
> Finished piston will still be the same .187 so as to not have to worry about any Interference issues.
> 
> Chris


Thanks for the measurements.

After reviewing the data I suggest that a design change is in order for the piston. Not a big change.

The sizing for the piston was based on a Cast Iron Ring or Delrin or Teflon.
Since we are using an O-ring (a good choice) the gland area needs to be changed so that O-ring will provide a good seal but not too tight.

Since the cylinder has a bore of .500" the correct O-ring size is the 012. It is designed for that bore, the .011 is for a 7/16" bore. If the 011 is used with the diameter .420" (inside diameter for the .011 is .301") it will be stretched over 25%. The manufactured suggested stretch is 0-5% with typical at 1-2%, the excessive stretch can overstress the material. 
The next issue is the squeeze. For reciprocating applications 10-20% is generally acceptable. The squeeze using the current the piston / O-ring is over 43% ...very tight and unnecessary.   Aiming for 15% would allow some variation the Bore and gland diameter.

Finally the gland width , typically in this application 15% is usually the norm. Due to the squeeze, heat expansion etc the O-ring will need that extra room.

So in summary: 
Use a AS568-012 O-ring.
Inside groove diameter should be .375-.380" .
Grove width should be .081 to .085

The cylinder should be as close as possible to .500 and smooth (a little honing may be needed). All corner and holes should have a smooth radius to prevent damaged during insertion and using. 

The Piston Rod Gland (item #23) and Valve Gland (item #21) needs to be reviewed to insure that it will not be too tight.

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Nov 23, 2012)

chucketn said:


> I'm working on cutting material today.Can I use stainless for the connecting rod keeper plate? I havs quite a bit in 1/16 stock. At least I'm guessing it's stainless. It's not aluminum but it's also non magnetic.
> 
> Chuck


 
I found some more of this material (inhereted from my Dad, over 10 years ago) and found markings indicating it was 304 SS. Woohoo! It machines nice! Dad was a maintenance electrician in a factory that made electrical contacts for aircraft and military applications. That same factory produced the magnitos used on the Spirit of St. Lewis. He used to bring home all kinds of scrap and cutoffs from work. My brother works there today and I get brass bar ends from him.


----------



## chrispare (Nov 23, 2012)

Pat, those changes will not be any problemm at at all 

how are the resr of you doing? any progress?

Chris


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## ninefinger (Nov 23, 2012)

I just picked up some material to get started on my parts, I'll be starting with the lathe made bits first (eccentric) as I'm tweaking my mill at the moment to get a bit more accuracy and reliability out of it...these are small parts and I have too much backlash at the moment for really small cutters....

Dave,

If no one has claimed the last "B" color base I'll request it.

Hopefully some progress this weekend.

Mike


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## dreeves (Nov 23, 2012)

There is a problem with the Color B. I was moving it to cut it and it fell and broke. I got 1 good peice form it. I got a darker color to replace it with. I have 2 of the darker color. I cut the rest from the E color. Im Sorry to the guys that picked B i was so pissed at myself.

I cant open the spreadsheet on my laptop so to who ever is cutting the side plates are you drilling the mounting holes to print so I can finish the bases.

Dave


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## maverick (Nov 23, 2012)

No worries Dave, I've been there myself. A dark color will contrast well with
the aluminum side plates, anything you find will be fine. 
Chuck, that material sounds fine for the keeper. If it machines well, so much
the better. 304 is not noted for ease of machining. It's great you have a 
source for bar ends and such, very handy.

Regards,
Maverick


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## Path (Nov 23, 2012)

dreeves said:


> There is a problem with the Color B. I was moving it to cut it and it fell and broke. I got 1 good peice form it. I got a darker color to replace it with. I have 2 of the darker color. I cut the rest from the E color. Im Sorry to the guys that picked B i was so pissed at myself.
> 
> I cant open the spreadsheet on my laptop so to who ever is cutting the side plates are you drilling the mounting holes to print so I can finish the bases.
> 
> Dave



*Dave*,
I will be machining the side plates to the drawing. 
Not a problem, the darker the better.

*ninefinger,*
 I'm missing the width dimension for the top of Side Plate where the Beam Pivot Bearing Base (#38 page 19) is mounted. I scaled it up from the drawing then contacted don-tucker ... the width should be .890". 

Thanks,

Pat H.


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## ninefinger (Nov 24, 2012)

Pat,

I drew it up in CAD and came up with .875" - I guessed it would be some fraction like 7/8" - but I can change to 0.890" - I bought 1" wide brass to work with.

Dave, 

No worries, whatever you supply will be fine.  Thanks,

Mike


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## Path (Nov 24, 2012)

Mike,

Thanks .... that's very interesting. How did you get the .875" using CAD?

I scaled the pdf up to 170% to get the overall width (6.25") on paper then measured the top. Of course there is a of lot room for error but I came with .887". Emailed don-tucker suggesting that it might be .875". He came back with .890".

Another important measurement that is missing  .. the step that has the two mounting holes (.375" above the bottom on left) for the Bottom Cylinder Head (#12). I came up with  .500".  What do you have for that?     

All the other dimensions that are not on the drawing ... I did the same scaling up since none of  them are really critical. 

Pat H.


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## ninefinger (Nov 24, 2012)

Pat,

Sorry can't help with the cylinder head mounting - I only drew up the parts I'm making (so I could generate G-code for the mill).  If you want I can try and have a look later.

I made an assumption to get 0.875" - which could be wrong!  For example the center to hole center distance is 0.343", the edge to hole center is 0.094", so I assumed an even amount of material on the missing dimension to match the width.  2 x (0.343 + 0.094) = 0.874" and rounding for lost precision gets 0.875"

Likewise I have assumed the raised portion on the base matches the cap.

Mike


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## dalem9 (Nov 24, 2012)

Dave Any color base will be fine with me .  Have all the cly ruff cut .Hope to get more work done sunday. Thanks Dale


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## Path (Nov 24, 2012)

Mike,

Thanks for the info ... I thought that the CAD drawing provided  measurements that drove the width to .875", but actually we both made a guess at it. I'm going to use the .890" as it will provide a little overhang and Don actually made the engine.
The step height for the cap is also okay as .500" since when I assembled the parts it came together okay.

Pat H.


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## Path (Nov 24, 2012)

Looks like we are missing a part drawing. 
I couldn't find anything that holds the Piston Rod to the Beam Links. On page 17 zone A2, "Cylinder Rod End Bushing " is shown that would make that connection, but can't  find a drawing for it. The "Cross Head Link Bushing" (actually our item #33) (note that names are different on page 17 vs the rest of the pages) is what we need except shorter. I would suggest that each builder make their own. Same as #33 except instead the length of .808", it would have a length of .510" or more then face off the excess so that there is just a little overhang when assembling. 

Comments?

Pat H


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## dreeves (Nov 24, 2012)

Worked for about 3 1/2 hours getting the rockers cut but when I was done I notice something was wrong:wall::wall:. Something must have changed when I flipped them over to cut the pockets. Looks like I have some new parts to make.


----------



## chrispare (Nov 25, 2012)

Nice setup. 
So what is eying with them?
Also how what cnc controller you have that communicates with the laptop?


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## ninefinger (Nov 25, 2012)

Dave,

Could you enlarge the pockets a bit to even the sides out? Might be worth a shot to save remaking them (it is just a cosmetic feature you're dealing with)

Mike


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## dreeves (Nov 25, 2012)

I was thinking about trying to open up the pocket. I have 2 extra pieces to try. 

I am using the smooth stepper in the box to allow the use of the laptop along with mach3. Ron ginger could answer questions on the control box. I went to the cnc build in Ann Arbor mi to build the mill

Dave


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## dreeves (Nov 25, 2012)

I think I saved the Rockers. I opened up the pockets by .010 and recut them and looks much better.

I also got the bases mostly done with a little cleanup on them.

Dave


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## blighty (Nov 25, 2012)

looking like a great team build gents......... as i have only just seen this thread i'll have to wait for the next team build.


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## joe d (Nov 25, 2012)

Dave:

Nice save!  If you had not mentioned it, none of use would have noticed....
bases look good, too.

I'm still waiting for material to arrive. Patiently.  Really, patiently.

Joe


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## ninefinger (Nov 25, 2012)

Dave,

You're too keen - all done already!  What are you going to do for the next 3 months while the rest of us get our butts in gear?

I need to go get more material.  I've had a change in plans on how I'm making the eccentric strap and need some more material.  Thank goodness its only steel and is about as cheap as it gets....the other stuff I bought will just go into the pile of stock material for use whenever.  I didn't have any known good steel anyways.

Plus an excuse to visit the metal store is always nice (but costly)!

Mike


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## dreeves (Nov 25, 2012)

I have 70 more parts to do. 30 pins for the rods. 30 center pins and 10 pivot pins.  I have to wait on material for them as we'll.  I got lucky on the rockers I fixed it the way I should have done it in the first place.  Like I said in an earlier post in still on the uphill on the learning curve of cnc.

Dave


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## chucketn (Dec 2, 2012)

I'm working on the rod clevis on sheet 7. I don't see a dimention for over all length. Does this mean it's not critical?

Chuck


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## Path (Dec 2, 2012)

chucketn said:


> I'm working on the rod clevis on sheet 7. I don't see a dimention for over all length. Does this mean it's not critical?
> 
> Chuck


 Yes ... I came up with an overall dimension of .707" by scaling up.


Pat H.


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## chucketn (Dec 2, 2012)

I'm working on the rod clevis on sheet 7. There is no overall length dimention given as I can see. Or am I missing something? Is this dimention critical?


----------



## chucketn (Dec 2, 2012)

I don't see where you came up with that dimention, Pat. Could I trouble you to explain?

Chuck


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## Path (Dec 2, 2012)

chucketn said:


> I don't see where you came up with that dimention, Pat. Could I trouble you to explain?
> 
> Chuck



Sure ...

There several ways to come up with the overall dimension ... all of which will be approximate.

The missing dimension is the distance from the left edge of the .282" and the left edge of the part. Find that and we know the overall length.

 One way ... eye ball, the .282 is almost the same distance as the missing, but a little smaller ..guess at say .3"  now the overall is .707" could be .7 or so etc.

Another way ... measure the actual distance of the .282" using calipers and eye loop. Measure the missing actual distance then using ratios calculate the missing distance. I used this method then rounded to .3". You may very well come up a different number but close.

Now with that distance you can look at the other parts of the Crankshaft to see how it fits. Using the .707" I came with a few threads showing when I put all the pieces together using SolidWorks. 

We will need to adjust the location of the Rod Clevis when tuning the Engine.

Hope is helps ...
Pat H


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## chucketn (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks for the explanation, Pat.
I guess I'm making this a lot harder than it needs to be. Plus, even though I worked as a draftsman 40+ years ago, and the last 17 as a computer tech, I never got into CAD/CAM or 2d/3d rendering. Experience has taught me not to trust scale in a photocopied or printed drawing.I am probably trying for much tighter tolerances than necessary.
Anyho, I have most of the materials cut except the brass for the bearing.
How would you guys tackle the bearing? Cut 2 pieces and solder together (will soft solder work for that?), drill/bore the bearing hole, and separate? Or drill/bore solid piece and split with slitting saw.

Chuck


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## ninefinger (Dec 3, 2012)

Chuck,

I have on my list of parts 2 sets of bearings to make so I'll tell you how I plan on making them.

I'm going to flaten the mating surfaces of the top and bottom of the bearing (ie cap and base) - this will be the datum from which the other measurements are taken.  Then I'm going to clamp them together and drill, then ream the bearing hole.  Before removing from the clamp I'll mark them as a matched set (ie 1T and 1B, 2T and 2B, etc), then I'll proceed to work on the profile, and other features. 

I guess I could do the profile and other features 1st,  either way the "split" is done 1st, then the hole is made with the 2 parts held together.  You shouldn't need any solder to hold the parts while making the hole, and the solder won't clean up properly after - leaving you a job of reworking the surfacces and then also re working the hole....

Mike


----------



## chucketn (Dec 3, 2012)

Thanks, Mike. You guys make this seam so easy.

Chuck


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## chucketn (Dec 7, 2012)

Next question...
So far, the rod clevis's are done, and the rods proper are cut to length and threaded. I'm working on the plate at the end of the connecting rod. It is easier for me to make it as a separate part and either silver solder it myself or have a team member do that for me. I've made the first one, tapped it 2-56 and it just press fits on the end of the rod proper. My question is, is this press fit o.k for silver soldering? Or do I need to open up the fit a bit? (I have only silver soldered 1 part in my life)
BTW, I found a local distributor for Silver Solder, and a hose for my Dad's 60 year old Prestolite torch, so I'm going to have a go at soldering it myself. Still have to go get the solder, flux, and hose. I have my Dad's torch kit, and his acetylene bottle. Hope there is some gas left in it!
And, another first for me, I made and used my first filing button for rounding the ends of the clevis arms. They came out pretty good, if I do say so myself.
Time for happy our with SWIMBO, I'll take some pictures tomorrow of the parts I've got done so far. 
Thanks for allowing me to take part in this build. I have learned so much, and accomplished much more than I thought possible already.

Chuck


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## dalem9 (Dec 7, 2012)

Hi all Chuck it sound like you are having a good time at this ,that is what this whole team build is all about. Glad that you decided to come along. What size did your rods turn out to be . Pat what are we going to use ,a packing or an o-ring ,and what persent squeeze will their be on the o-ring. Also on the cyl. the exhust hole it shows a 1/8 hole .375 deep also a 5-40 thread  . The hole for a 5-40 thread is a number 38 drill .which is .101. Please advise as to what we will use. Thanks Dale


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## Path (Dec 8, 2012)

*Chuck, *
Glad you are with us and having fun.

If I understand you correctly ... you threaded the keeper 2-56 but not the rod.
So the fit is not a threaded. That's probably okay, the fit needs tight enough so it doesn't move during heating. You want a .002 -.004" clearance for the melted solder to flow around the threads. In this application a little will go a long way doesn't even have to be all around the thread ... low forces. Let gravity do the work by placing a small piece of solder on the flat surface (not at at rod junction), with the keeper up in the air and the torch at the junction of the rod/keeper. (maybe a picture would help this description )

The important part of the soldering is cleaning. I would not use acetylene ... just too hot especially with these small parts ... burns the flux off before the pieces are at the proper melting temperature. I use Mapp gas.
Try some sample like parts before using the good ones, so you can get some practice.

If needed I can solder mine or the groups.

Hope this helps ... can go into more detail in needed.

*Dale,*

I will look into the o-ring and get back to you later today.
I would use the #38 drill  at a depth of  .375" then tap 5-40 at a depth of about .12 or so. The builder can decide what style exhaust they want.

  Pat H.


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## Path (Dec 9, 2012)

dalem9 said:


> ... . Pat what are we going to use ,a packing or an o-ring ,and what persent squeeze will their be on the o-ring.... Please advise as to what we will use. Thanks Dale



Dale, 

Okay ...

Changes are based on using the AS568-007 O-ring, which is for the .187" rod. <<< TYPO  S/B .157"

The current squeeze is over 30%, the recommended squeeze is 5 -10%. If we  aim for the 10% then the hole for the o-ring (Top Cylinder head) would need to be change from .250 to .282". That requires the mounting holes for the Packing Glad be changed the same amount (from .187" to .203"). This is where an issue becomes apparent. The mounting hex screws heads and washers for the Top Cylinder Head may not have a enough room to rotate. However, the Hex screws and washers could be trimmed a little to provide additional room. Or use a  Socket Head Cap Screw that would also provide additional room. With these changes corresponding changes would be needed for the Packing glad, plus the insert length changed from .250" to .205".
Other little wiggles here and there could be done so that the O-ring could be used.

There is nothing wrong with using packing material for air sealing .. they do leak a little and may require more maintenance. But for this application it  probably would work just fine.

Since you are making all these parts I think the final decision should be yours, if that is okay. 

If you do decide to go with the O-ring I would be glad to make drawings and send you the pdf file. Also you may want to make a Packing Glad and Cylinder Head (or part of one) to see how the screw holes actually line up etc. before making 10 of each.

Comments and discussion welcomed  
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





.

Pat H.


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## chucketn (Dec 9, 2012)

Here's what I have so far.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/DSCF1344.jpg

The top is as the rod will be assembled, with the flat piece soldered (just pressed on at the moment), the clevis threaded on. The small holes in the flat piece are tapped 2-56.

I have used a very fine file to debur all the parts. I don't have a clue on how to polish them any better. Wire wheel?

Chuck


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## dalem9 (Dec 9, 2012)

Chuch they look good to me ,nice work . What size is the rod. If you want to polish them more get some buffing conpond from an auto parts store , and a peice of  leather an buff it .   Pat I do not need a drawing  i have it prety much figured out for the o-ring  Thank to all. Dale


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## chucketn (Dec 9, 2012)

Dale, the rod is plain jane 3/16" crs from Fastenal. Thanks for the "looks good". I plan to go over the ends with a seel and a brass wire wheel, and maybe buff them. Not sure yet. Still got to get the stuff for silver soldering. Have you guys seen my posts about silver solder technique? My last post to that thread wxplains what I have, and what I need.

Chuck


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## Path (Dec 9, 2012)

Chuck,

Great looking work! 

See post 201.

Pat H.


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## dreeves (Dec 9, 2012)

Looks great chuck. The brown truck it dropping off the material I need to get the rest of my parts complete.


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## dalem9 (Dec 10, 2012)

Pat I am confuesed , Has there been a change in the plans that I am not awere of . The plans that I have show the piston rod at .157 . The 007 o-ring will not work with a .187 rod . The 007 o-ring has an .070 cross section . We will have to go to an oo8 o-ring and make changest acordingly . Please let me know and I will redesign the head too . Thanks Dale


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## chrispare (Dec 10, 2012)

Well I hope the piston rod is not suppose to be .187 as I have got them done to .157

Just looking at the plans, is Pat looking at the steam chest or the cylinder head and piston rod. 


Chris


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## Path (Dec 10, 2012)

Dale and Chris

My bad  typo error ... rod is .157" not .187" :wall:
See changes in the thread #202

Take a look at the rest of the paragraph for suggested changes.
Sounds like you want to use the O-ring.
As with any changes there is a risk that something won't work the same without some testing first.


In passing it looks like the Steam Chest and Valve Packing Gland could be changed to an o-ring. That would make it easier because it would eliminate the threads.

Joe any thoughts?

Pat H.


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## dalem9 (Dec 10, 2012)

Pat Chuck has the rod at .187 I will redesgne the head to use the rod that he has already made .This should be no problem seeing that I am making the head and gland .  Please let me know if this is o.k.  Thanks Dale


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## Path (Dec 10, 2012)

chrispare said:


> Well I hope the piston rod is not suppose to be .187 as I have got them done to .157
> 
> Just looking at the plans, is Pat looking at the steam chest or the cylinder head and piston rod.
> 
> ...


   Dale 


What  ??? ...  I read that he has made them at .157"

Pat H.


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## dalem9 (Dec 10, 2012)

Pat Check post 205 . Thanks Dale


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## dalem9 (Dec 10, 2012)

Mow I see 209


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## dalem9 (Dec 10, 2012)

Pat Chris is making the rods not Chuck Dale


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## dalem9 (Dec 10, 2012)

O.K. So .157  An 007 O-ring it shall be  . Dale


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## chucketn (Dec 10, 2012)

Hey folks, I went out today and bought fire brick, solder, flux and a hose for my Presto Torch set I inherited from my Dad. I'll be trying my hand at silver soldering tomorrow! Wish me luck!

Chuck


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## chucketn (Dec 13, 2012)

Soldering still on hold! Went to open the flux that came in the kit and the bottle (plastic) shattered in my hand! After a panicky call to the manufacturer for MDS info, we worked out a replacement. What a mess! Guess I didn't get poisoned though, and my hands haven't fallen off yet!
In the mean time, planning for the next part, the connecting rod bearing. 
I plan to buy a piece of brass for this part as the brass I have would take a lot of cutting and milling to get to size.
I do not have any reamers. Can anyone sugest a beginners set of reamers and sizes? Do I by just the one required or a set? 1/4" seems to be used a lot in model engine building. I know I could bore the part but looking for the easiest way. What size hole/reamer?

Chuck


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## maverick (Dec 13, 2012)

Chuck,
To bad about the flux bottle, glad your hands haven't fallen off.
The crankshaft stock I'm using is .2502 but will have to be polished a bit.
I'd say use a 1/4" reamer and see how a 1/4" end mill shank fits. If too tight,
we polish the crank a little bit. If too loose, file a bit off of the bearing halves. 
As far as buying a reamer set, I just buy the size for the project. You'll end up 
with more sizes that get used that way.

Regards,
Mike


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## chucketn (Dec 15, 2012)

Woohooo! Sucess! I got the new replacement kit from Harris(Lincoln Electric) today. Took it to the shop and soldered up the connecting rods. My military electronics soldering experience served me well. Got all the rods soldered and cleaned up. I am sooo pleased with the results!
Next is the brass bearing and the keeper plates and Bob's yer uncle!
Celebrating with an adult beverage! Even wearing my lucky "How do you like your Dickel" t-shirt!

Chuck


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## Path (Dec 16, 2012)

Way to go chuck ...

Now th_wwp ...

Pat H.


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## chucketn (Dec 16, 2012)

Forgot the pictures...

http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/team build 8/

Chuck


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## dalem9 (Dec 16, 2012)

Looks great Chuck Dale


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## chucketn (Dec 16, 2012)

Now these parts were only soldered with Sta-Brite Silver bearing solder. Will they be strong enough?

Chuck


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## chucketn (Dec 16, 2012)

I have just checked 4 online metal sites for 1/4" x 1/2" brass bar. What a shock! Prices ranged from $5.18/ft with $14.70 for shipping to $16.22/ft and $16.39 shipping! Anybody have a 6" piece they can sell me for a reasonable price and $5.35 USPS shipping?
As I said before, I have some 2" brass bar ends, 3" long, but the time and setup to cut 1/4" x 1/2" x3/16" pieces would be huge.

Chuck


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## maverick (Dec 17, 2012)

Chuck,
Nice job on the soldering, it should be strong enough.
I have some brass for the bearings. P.M. your address.

Regards,
Maverick


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## chucketn (Dec 17, 2012)

Maverick,
Thanks for the offer, I've decided I'm just too lazy! I cut a slice off the fore mentioned brass bar end and proceeded to slice that up on the mill with a slitting saw. First slice yielded 6 pair of roughed out bearing halves, so I cut another slice. The bar ends were free curtesy of my brother, I just needed to get off my but and do it!
I have learned so much from this build, and extended my experience and confidence to no end! Thanks Team Build 8 Group for allowing me to participate!
I've even been looking into a vibrating polisher to make my bits pretty!

Chuck


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## chucketn (Dec 18, 2012)

10 bearing pairs, super glued together, ready for milling to match, drilling and boring bearing hole, and drilling the bolt holes.

http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss157/chucketn/team build 8/DSCF1355.jpg

Can you see my mistake? I glued the wrong sides together. I glued them on the narrow edge. They're supposed to be 1/4" thick.

I have to separate them and re-glue in correct relationship. If I mill them to length now, I may not be able to lign them up exactly to re-glue.

No heat in the shop so I'm only getting about an hour during the day to work. Maybe 5-6 hours left...

Chuck

Chuck


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## chucketn (Dec 19, 2012)

Well, I soaked the bearing sets overnight in acetone and got them separated again. Proceded to measure them and ponder the correct orientation. After several minutes I got out the ol' superglue and had at it again.

You guessed it, glued them up the same way again, _WRONG_! Bearings are now soaking in acetone again, and I'm soaking my head!

Chuck


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## chucketn (Dec 19, 2012)

Acetone is just too slow, used heat to separate the bearing halves. Got them squared away and milled to size. Now drilling the bolt and crank holes. I do not have a reamer for the 1/4" crank hole. What do you guys suggest?
I can drill with a letter D drill, that will leave .004 to ream to 1/4". Will that be enough? Should I drill smaller?

Chuck


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## maverick (Dec 19, 2012)

Sometimes a project takes more time head scratching than actual
machining.
    For the .250 bore allow about .010 for reaming. This gives the 
reamer some material to center up in. I can send you a spare .250 reamer
if you'd like. I have a handful from an auction.

Regards,
Maverick


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## chucketn (Dec 19, 2012)

Thanks Maverick, I'd appreciate that.
Bearings are comming on great!
Here's the first one ready for the crank hole!

Chuck


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## chucketn (Dec 20, 2012)

Getting close to finishing my parts. Got 1 more hole to drill and ream, and the final bling to work out.
Who is going to receive the members parts and redistribute? Is there a way we can pay for postage and anciliaries like screws? I don't think we all want to by boxes of each type of fastener needed. Why not divide the cost of fasteners among the members and add that to the cost of the postage?
One more question. On the connecting rod I'm making, the clevis threads on the rod I asume that is for adjusting the length of the rod. How about a hex nut to lock the adjustment? I could get a piece of brass hex and make some  nuts to add a bit of bling?

Chuck


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## Path (Dec 20, 2012)

chucketn said:


> Getting close to finishing my parts. Got 1 more hole to drill and ream, and the final bling to work out.
> Who is going to receive the members parts and redistribute? Is there a way we can pay for postage and anciliaries like screws? I don't think we all want to by boxes of each type of fastener needed. Why not divide the cost of fasteners among the members and add that to the cost of the postage?
> One more question. On the connecting rod I'm making, the clevis threads on the rod I asume that is for adjusting the length of the rod. How about a hex nut to lock the adjustment? I could get a piece of brass hex and make some  nuts to add a bit of bling?
> 
> ...




Boy ...  you sure are moving right along  and the parts look great.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







Way back in an earlier post I mentioned that each builder would supply their own hardware. That way they could pick the style to suit them. I plan on making my own hex as mentioned on page 16. If I do buy I would only buy one length and then trim as needed. No money exchanges hands. If obtaining the 2-56 hardware becomes a problem ... let us know, I'm sure someone would help out.

In January I will request e-mail and mailing addresses from each builder. Then I will provide each member with that information ... you then mail your part(s) to each member.

Won't need a hex nut ... assembly can't rotate. 


Pat H


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## chucketn (Dec 20, 2012)

I think it would make better economic sense for all of us to send our parts to one person, plus the return postage, that person repackages the parts in USPS " if it fits it ships" boxes and sends them out. I will volunteer to do that.
Has anyone made a list of fasteners needed? I honestly haven't paid attention to that detail.
I understand the 'doesn't move' on the connecting rod.

Chuck


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## Path (Dec 20, 2012)

Chuck ..

Opps .. I guess that didn't come across very well. I'm sorry ... I didn't mean for it to sound that way.:hDe:

As far as shipping ... thanks for volunteering, may take you up on that.
But here is my take on it ... and this is only my opinion.
First ... need to take you out of the equation. This is not directed at you or anyone else on this team.

Now ... I don't like mailing all my parts to one person ... too many things can happen. And things do happen ... accidents, illness, family and job obligations, and host of other things. Well intended promises can be broken, in other words ...things get in the way. Imagine... everyone sends their parts to me and something happens so that I don't (or can't) follow through. Everyone suffers. But if they sent their parts to the other 8 team members ... obligation has been met. When I receive parts from the other team members it becomes my responsibility to finish my engine. There are other reasons but enough. 

Let's open this up for discussion and then we can decide which way is best for this team. TB 4 and 6 we sent to each other.


Pat H.


----------



## dreeves (Dec 20, 2012)

I would agree that the parts be sent to each member from the one who made them. It seem much cleaner that way

DAve


----------



## chrispare (Dec 21, 2012)

Sending individually has worked well in the past. 
That's my vote.


----------



## chucketn (Dec 21, 2012)

Guess I'll go with the majority then.

Another question. Are we as individuals applying bling, or is that up to  the individual?

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Dec 21, 2012)

I for one like a more mate finish on my engines. Not sure what others might like. sure cuts down on upkeep.

Dave


----------



## chucketn (Dec 21, 2012)

Thinking of making a D bit type reamer for the crank bearing. Anyone make/use one? I'm going to use 1/4" drill rod.
Just looking for ideas as its way to cold to work in the shop today. Need some inside work...

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Dec 21, 2012)

I have gone through the entire drawing package checking for fasteners. If I am correct, all that is needed for assembly is 2-56 hex head bolts or screws, from 1/4" to 9/16" long. Am I correct? MicroFasteners has them for $12.40 /100 for 3/4"  brassand $11.90/100 for 3/4" ss, shipped.

Chuck


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## chrispare (Dec 21, 2012)

well since the world didnt end today,
I spent some time in the shop, and this is what ive gotten done so far.
Next is to get the 2/56 threads on the ends.

chris


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## dreeves (Dec 25, 2012)

I got some time in the shop and got some of the .125 pins cut to length and the spacers cut to length and tapped. I still need to cut the contour on them. I hope to get more done in the next few days. I made the spacers from brass. I hope everyone is ok with that. I hate to tap small hole in steel. I was going to make them in aluminum but with the concern of the strength of the thread I went with the next best thing.


In the 3rd picture you can see the .125 Pins that still need to be drilled and tapped

Dave


----------



## joe d (Dec 29, 2012)

Seeing all the progress you guys have been making has got me off my behind...

here are the valve chest packing glands





There is a dimension missing on the plans for the valve spindle, the last bit that rides in the top of the valve chest.  I am going to assume .25", and will adjust if
needed after I make the 1st one, and let you all know.

Cheers, Joe


----------



## dreeves (Dec 30, 2012)

Joe, Looking good

Dave


----------



## dalem9 (Jan 1, 2013)

Chris What is the dia. on the pistons that you made . Thanks Dale


----------



## chrispare (Jan 2, 2013)

The pistons are .485 but the orings are made to fit .500 so the cylinders should be made to .500
Correct?


----------



## dalem9 (Jan 2, 2013)

Hi Chris The cyl. are done And at .500 +/- .Working on the bottem head having alot of trouble getting everything centered . 
Get things all set with the indacator and then it all changes . Will have pictures soon . Dale


----------



## ninefinger (Jan 2, 2013)

Just letting you guys know I'm not frozen solid up here (-23 C or -9 F tonight) and I am working on my parts.  Starting with the eccentric.  I'm just about set up for a small "production" run but will do that tomorrow when I'm more awake and less prone to errors...plus I have a question.  The drawing says to use 2 set screws 90 degrees apart but does not list a size/ thread.  Recommendations?  Its a 0.5" collar that has the 1/4" crankshaft going through. Also, am I to supply the set screws? 

I'll grab a picture of my setup and 1st parts tomorrow - batteries are dead tonight (to many family pics over Christmas...)

Mike


----------



## joe d (Jan 3, 2013)

Hi Mike

I'd be happy with 2-56 for the set screws, would be in keeping with the rest
of the fasteners.  That said, I think you could go up to 4-40 without it 
looking too wonky.  As to whether or not you supply them: did we 
finally decide on this or are we all supplying our own fasteners? 

I notice that Ottawa apparently had lots of -23 to go around, you sent us 
some in Montreal.....

Joe


----------



## chrispare (Jan 3, 2013)

I am supplying the 256 nits and 440 nuts that are needed with my parts. 
I needed to getsometo check my threads anyway. 
I am quite good friends with the local rc hobby shop and they have plenty of those small fasteners. 
Cannot wait to see some pics
Chris


----------



## dreeves (Jan 3, 2013)

I used a 2-56 set screw in the rocker. I will send along one with them. I'm going to use all stainless bolts on my engine so I will use my own hardware  

Dave


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## Path (Jan 4, 2013)

Looks like things are really looking good ... I've been under the weather now for about 2 weeks. Thought I would catch up a bit.

*Chris *... Pistons and all those little pieces look great. 
*Dave* ... More little pieces, that brass will really put some nice contrast on that engine. Glad you switched.
*Joe* ... More nice and shinny brass.  I also came up with .25 for that dimension. Although you didn't mention it ... that hole location for the 2-56 thread is also missing. I came up .066" from the right end.

*Mike* ... If not to late... the 2-56 set screws would match the mounting hardware for the straps. Also since this hardware is somewhat unique if you have them and it's not a problem ... providing them would be great.

Way back when I suggested that we provide are own hardware .. that way each builder can make or buy whatever style. But there are exception as noted.


More later...


Pat H.


----------



## ninefinger (Jan 4, 2013)

Pat,

I didn't get into making the eccentrics yesterday - I was too tired to do it safely / properly so I stayed out of the shop (lesson learned the hard way)

Hopefully tonight should be good to go.  I'll use 2-56 as the thread but I don't have any set screws that size to provide - sorry.  I'll do a quick search locally to see if I can come up with them but no promises.

Mike​


----------



## dreeves (Jan 4, 2013)

Mile let me Check how many I have. I may have enough to give you

Dave


----------



## dalem9 (Jan 7, 2013)

Here are some pictures of my parts.
Dale


----------



## Path (Jan 8, 2013)

Dale,

Nice looking parts!

Pat H.


----------



## dalem9 (Jan 8, 2013)

Thanks Pat Got the cyl. Sanded today . Will start on the cyl. heads tomorrow . Dale


----------



## Frostfly (Jan 10, 2013)

I posted as a nooby with questions in another forum here and after spending some time reading this thread (and so bunch of maths) I managed to get this entire set of plans into solid works.  It's got a couple of issues yet, but I'm sure you folks will get a kick out of the end results. It's missing a few bits I can see, and all the nuts and bolts (as the CAD program doesn't require them)  and i have on spacing issue...but I think it looks pretty good.

[ame="http://youtu.be/8l9SdpIA2SA"]http://youtu.be/8l9SdpIA2SA [/ame]


----------



## Path (Jan 11, 2013)

Frostfly,

Yes ... it does look nice. 

What version of SW are you using?
I also did full up assemble using the available plan ... just haven't posted it yet.

What issues do you have left? I think all mine are fixed. 


Pat H.


----------



## dalem9 (Jan 11, 2013)

Thanks that is realy cool . Dale


----------



## chucketn (Jan 11, 2013)

So, where are we at on fasteners? I only need 2 per assy for my parts, for 20 total. Are we providing the fasteners for our individual parts?
Also, what is the style of fasteners? Hex heads, slotted screws, or SHCS? I needto order some as I do not have 20 of the necessary size and what I have are slotted(common screw) type.
I am drilling and boring my last hole to complete my parts today.

Chuck


----------



## Path (Jan 11, 2013)

chucketn said:


> So, where are we at on fasteners? I only need 2 per assy for my parts, for 20 total. Are we providing the fasteners for our individual parts?
> Also, what is the style of fasteners? Hex heads, slotted screws, or SHCS? I needto order some as I do not have 20 of the necessary size and what I have are slotted(common screw) type.
> I am drilling and boring my last hole to complete my parts today.
> 
> Chuck


Chuck,

Wow ... you are really moving along. Nice. 

"Are we providing the fasteners for our individual parts?"   No, that way the builder can decided what head style to use. Exception may be the set screws ... see previous posts.

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Jan 11, 2013)

Well, my parts are done! All the crank holes drilled in the bearings, and reamed with my home made D bit reamer.
Had to take advantage of our warm weather, up to 63° today. Now to clean the shop and retire to the parlor for a celebratory adult beverage! Cheers!

Chuck


----------



## dalem9 (Jan 11, 2013)

Pat I am going to put all the bolts for the cyl. Head  top and bottom . I have shcs or bottum head screws . let me know what would be better . I could allso includ screws to mount to the frames . Dale


----------



## Frostfly (Jan 12, 2013)

I'm missing a couple of bushings and I need to put in the nuts and washers, so the spacing is right for the parallel arms.  Nothing very difficult. 

It was a fun project, and by fun I mean Frustrating and irritating right up until the end then it was fun


----------



## joe d (Jan 13, 2013)

Some nice parts being produced by you guys!

Here's my latest batch:  Some steam chests






not much left to do now.

Cheers, Joe


----------



## dreeves (Jan 18, 2013)

I got all the metal parts complete today. I need to do a little clean un on some burs but all look ok. I hope to get the bases complete by Sunday. Here are a few pctures of the metal parts.

Dave


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## Path (Jan 19, 2013)

dalem9 said:


> Pat I am going to put all the bolts for the cyl. Head  top and bottom . I have shcs or bottum head screws . let me know what would be better . I could allso includ screws to mount to the frames . Dale



*Dale,*
Sorry I didn't back sooner ... I'm thinking the SHCS is the better looking choice, same for the mounting the hardware. But others may have different ideas.   Thanks


*Joe,*
Nice looking steam chests ... 


*Dave,*
Nice Beams  .  Did you sandblast them to give them that texture? Looks super. Oh one thing ... there are 4 frame spreader bars.  


Pat H.


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## dreeves (Jan 19, 2013)

Thanks for bursting my bubble. I will to them on Sunday

Dave


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## chrispare (Jan 20, 2013)

I have just got to finish the links and a bit if touch up on the other parts. 
I had to redo a bunch of those little posts as the tiny 2/56 threads were no good. ( dang they are small and that thread is a PITA)

It looks as though this build is moving along nicely. 
Have we thought up a mailing list yet?


----------



## Path (Jan 20, 2013)

*Chris,*

Yes the little 2-56 are a real pain!


*Team ...*
It is probably a good time to start sending me your mailing address, once I get them all I will send all the addresses to each team member. 
If you also send me your email address, I will email the list directly to you. Otherwise I will send the list via PM.

We haven't hear from some of the team members lately, if you haven't posted in a while please check in and give us an update 
so we know all is well and on schedule (or not ). 


Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## ninefinger (Jan 20, 2013)

I got the eccentrics done the other day.  Still a little deburring to do on them but it's on to the eccentric strap next.  





I had been fighting an issue with my mill but hopefully its resolved and I can make these parts without issue.
Only 39 days left.  Nothing like a deadline to motivate you...

Mike


----------



## rhitee93 (Jan 22, 2013)

I'm still alive out here.  I've had a lot going on, so I haven't been on the forums much lately.

So far I have these done:






The steam chest covers are cut, and just need the holes reamed to final size.  I should have the valve bell cranks cut out in a day or so.  I'll also have the grounding link mounting block roughed out this weekend.  Then a little time on the mill to drill the holes.

The rest of the parts are simple lathe ops that won't take me long even though there are a lot of them to make


----------



## chucketn (Jan 22, 2013)

Great looking parts guys! Can't wait to see them all together.

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Jan 22, 2013)

Brian, how we're they cut? They look great


Dave


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## joe d (Jan 22, 2013)

Good looking parts there Brian!

Here's the end of my parts, just got a little final clean-up to do





Looking forward to putting this thing together

Cheers, Joe


----------



## dalem9 (Jan 23, 2013)

Guys everything is looking great . Dale


----------



## TorontoBuilder (Jan 29, 2013)

Nothing new guys?

I have been following this thread with great interest... it is nice to see how everyone can work together, helping those with less experience. I look forward to pics of the completed builds!


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## dreeves (Jan 29, 2013)

Well guys has everyone checked in with there status?  I got all my parts complete tonight. I picked up USPS boxes for shipping and just waiting on a list with address. I hope all is well with the build
Dave


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## Path (Jan 30, 2013)

dreeves said:


> Well guys has everyone checked in with there status?  I got all my parts complete tonight. I picked up USPS boxes for shipping and just waiting on a list with address. I hope all is well with the build
> Dave




Wow ... you are moving right along ... great to hear that you are ready to ship.

I have 6 of the 9 addresses so far hope to get the rest in day or so.
Once I get them all,  I'll compile the list and send it out.

Also will provide my own progress later today or tomorrow.


Pat H.


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## dreeves (Jan 30, 2013)

Thank Pat.  I was hoping to stir some pictures up from some of the team members the have not posted pictures. I will post some more pictures tonight.  I can't wait to see it all come together.  I want to thank the team for letting me in.

Dave


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## Path (Feb 7, 2013)

Just send the team members the addresses for TB 8 via PM.

Please check that your address is correct ... if not please PM so that I can correct.


Pat H.


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## joe d (Feb 7, 2013)

Re addresses:

Mine's good,  thanks Pat!

Looking forward to seeing the parts.

Cheers, Joe


----------



## rhitee93 (Feb 7, 2013)

Wow, I feel like a southerner with all of those way north addresses!  I'm going to go practice my drawl... 

I had a paying gig that came in and took up my shop time around the holidays, but I have most of the hard parts done on my list.  I'm hoping to finish up the rest of them soon, and should be done by the end of the month.


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## dalem9 (Feb 8, 2013)

Thanks For the address Pat   My Parts should be done on time . I just have to drill some hole and tap some holes and they will be done . Dale


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## Path (Feb 9, 2013)

Though I would post my progress with a few pictures.

This is a SW rendition of Gerry's Beam Engine that the team is building ... except for the hardware.









I ordered three 3/16" x  6" x 6' section of Aluminum for the 20 side panels needed.
Each 6 foot piece yields 10 panels so I have an extra 6 footer for goofs. Which I'm sure I will have. Here I'm cutting two 7" panels at a time.







Once cut I clean up the edges then drill 4 mounting holes that match the bottom plate (black) for machining in the vice.
This holds the stock while cutting the pockets.







I machine the 6 pockets using a 1/4" end mill for the center of the pocket then a  1/8" end mill for the contour. 






Then I install a holding plate to machine the perimeter of the side panel.






Well here are all 10 sets of side panel, takes about 40 minutes each to machine.
Next step is to drill and tap the 6 holes and 2 mounting holes. This should be fun. 





More photos after I drill and tap the holes.

Later,

Pat H


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## dreeves (Feb 9, 2013)

Pat, Wow they look great and cant wait to start getting some parts in the mail.

Dave


----------



## joe d (Feb 10, 2013)

Well Dave, my parts went out in the mail today.  You should see them soon!

Joe


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## Path (Feb 12, 2013)

*Dave*,
Looking forward to getting parts also ... been a long haul since we started.

*Team*,
My parts are moving along ... now I need some input.  
Recall I mentioned engraving some info on the side panel back in post 149/150.

Here's what I have in mind:

              ........HMEM  TB8  2012
(Name of builder)  sn 1 of 10

This will be engraved between the support screws at the bottom of the side panel. Near the middle... there is no real center line to use as a guide. 


Question (1): Which side?  Flywheel or Steam chest.  Or maybe both!
Question (2):  What name to use. 1st, or last, or 1st and last or member's name. I suspect 1st and last, but it is your choice.
Question (3): What name to use for the auction piece ... maybe blank or some other words.

If you have questions ... ask!

Can anyone let me know what they used for an engraving tool.
I'm thinking about using a single flute 30 degree V-cutting tool.
The depth will be about .015 (will experiment to see what is best).
The engraving letters (H for example) will be 12 pts. , or about .1 high. Width of members will be about .012 to .015 wide, total width about .1 depending on the actual letter. So the tool has to be real small .

Any help on this would be great. 

Let me know either here or PM.

Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## dreeves (Feb 12, 2013)

Well got all the parts boxed and ready to send out on Thursday. Had a new experience with filling out Customs Declaration forms. Got all that done and thanks to the post office for providing me with a few extras which I used.

Pat, I would like Dave Reeves or D Reeves which ever works best. Thanks for going the extra mile with the engraving.

Dave


----------



## chucketn (Feb 13, 2013)

Well, my parts are in the mail. I hope they measure up. I noticed when packing them, that I did not separate the bearing halves on some. They are only super-glued together for the final drilling and reaming. Just soak them in acetone, or nail polish remover for a couple of minutes and they will separate. Heat will work also, if there is a problem using acetone. Just don't over heat them as they woll discolor.
As for the engraving, an unexpected and humbling addition... Chuck (chucketn) Pickering would be my preference, just chucketn if not enough room.

Thanks everyone for allowing me to join in at the last minute, and for all the help, advise, tools, materials, and encouragement you provided.

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Feb 13, 2013)

Chuck,  it was great having you involved and I'm sure your parts will be fine. I too was not sure if my skills were up to the challenge. I'm new to the cnc game and was one of the first projects with the machine. There may be a need for some sanding in the pockets of my parts as the glass beads did not clean it all up. I hope everyone as well is ok with my parts. If there is a problem let me know and it will be corrected.  

Dave


----------



## Path (Feb 13, 2013)

chucketn said:


> ...............
> Thanks everyone for allowing me to join in at the last minute, and for all the help, advise, tools, materials, and encouragement you provided.
> 
> Chuck


 *Chuck and Dave*

Hey it's not over, sounds like you are about to leave us when the fun is just about to begin.  There is lots to do ... receiving parts, putting it all together, adjustments and questions. And pictures when assembled.
So we still have about 4 weeks of fun. 

Hang in there and keep posting on progress etc. 


Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Feb 13, 2013)

I didn't mean to convey the message that it's over. Sorry if I came across that way. I look forward to receiving parts, the assembly and adjustments, and the first run! I also look forward to the auction of #10. Maybe that one should have all our names on it? Maybe on the bottom of the base?
Still have to order a box of screws. Ment to do that today but forgot.
BTW, didn't someone make an animated 3d of the completed engine?
I learned so much in the making of my simple parts. I even made my own D bit drill and reamer for these parts! And they worked!
I'll be here for the duration!

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Feb 13, 2013)

I can't wait till the parts start arriving myself. I'm not going anywhere. This have been a great experience and looking forward to showing the engine off at Cabin Fever in April. 

Dave


----------



## chucketn (Feb 14, 2013)

Back to fasteners for the build. Will a box of 2-56 x 1/2" be sufficient? I know 1/2" will work for the crank rod I made. I need to order a box as my local suppliers do not stock that size. What are you guy's using? Black, SS? I plan to build a tool/jig to chuck what ever size I get to cut off/turn to shorter lengths where needed. Do we need nuts also?

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Feb 14, 2013)

I plan on using ss hex head bolts on my project. I always buy long bolts and have block with several steps with tapped holes in it. I then dress them with a belt sander flush. When I remove them the tapped hole cleans the threads.

Dave


----------



## chucketn (Feb 14, 2013)

Dave, what length will cover all sized needed? Big price jump from 1/2" to 3/4" per hundred. Found some on Amazon from Small parts.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003R7JEFA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Feb 14, 2013)

I would think 1/2 inch would cover all the lengths. On my parts the 1/4 inch will be long enough. 

Dave


----------



## chucketn (Feb 14, 2013)

I thought I'd found them but when I ordered the size magically changed to 6-32. Had to cancel it. Where did you source yours Dave?

Chuck


----------



## Path (Feb 14, 2013)

chucketn said:


> Back to fasteners for the build. Will a box of 2-56 x 1/2" be sufficient? I know 1/2" will work for the crank rod I made. I need to order a box as my local suppliers do not stock that size. What are you guy's using? Black, SS? I plan to build a tool/jig to chuck what ever size I get to cut off/turn to shorter lengths where needed. Do we need nuts also?
> 
> Chuck


   Not sure what I will be using ... probably will wait. Use what I have on hand to assemble then see what looks best ... Black or SS. Once decided will cut to length then replace. Black looks good but will stand out against the aluminum, but SS will blend in ... so maybe make some Brass hex screws that way I have complete control.

I just finished threading another set of side panels ... 3 sets are done 7 to go. Takes about a hour to do each set. Got to be real careful ... don't want to break a tap.

Later,

Pat H.


----------



## dalem9 (Feb 14, 2013)

Pat  The engraving is a great  idea . Dale Masters would be great no mine . Thanks Dale


----------



## maverick (Feb 14, 2013)

Hello team,
A quick note to let you know I'm still here, have gotten my work load down to a managable level and can resume work on my parts. Sounds like I will be tail end charlie on this build. The crank parts are finished and ready for 
silver solder, then on to flywheels. Pat, I use ready made engraving bits from msc and a few other suppliers. Thirty degree with .005 nose flat work 
well on Al. if you have a lot of RPM available. Maverick would be fine for mine.

Maverick


----------



## chucketn (Feb 15, 2013)

I found SS Hex Head 2-56 x 3/4" at fastener-express.com for $15.35 box of 100, including shipping, so I think I'm set.
Hurry up postman!

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Feb 15, 2013)

Chuck, Im sorry it took so long to get back with where I get my small hardware. I see you found some. This is where I get them http://www.microfasteners.com/

Dave


----------



## dreeves (Feb 15, 2013)

Put my parts on the US POST OFFICE mail donkey this afternoon.  To my friends north of the border they said may take a week.

Dave


----------



## Path (Feb 16, 2013)

*Maverick*,

Great to hear that all is well and you're moving forward. A few days ago I ordered 3 engraving bits ... 30 degrees with a .010" flat tip ... at the time
I thought the .005 might be too fragile. We'll see. My speed is 6000 rpm max. I should have them by next Wednesday or so. Anyway thanks for your input.


*My progress*,

Just finished drilling and tapping the 2-56 holes on the side panels ... all 120 of them. No broken taps!   Now I have to drill the 2 mounting holes, 
clean them up a bit and I'm ready for the engraving! Getting close.

Speaking of engraving I was just wondering   ... how about a plaque with all ours names etc?  Instead of engraving the actual side panel. 
It was mentioned early on and then again by Chuck a few posts back and I'm getting to like the idea.

Comments? 


Guess what came in mail the today? My 1st parts by* Chuck*. Looking good!

Looks like *Dave* was next in mailing ... anybody else getting close? 

Later with a few more pictures.

Pat H


----------



## dreeves (Feb 16, 2013)

Pat, I would go with whatever is the easiest. I like a plaque as well.

Dave


----------



## dalem9 (Feb 16, 2013)

A plaque is a nice idea . Dale


----------



## Path (Feb 16, 2013)

More parts came in today  ... joe d 's steam chest stuff.
*Joe *... nice polishing job and  very well made. Thm:Thm:
So small compared to my side panels .

Also received my engraving bits, came 4 days earlier then I thought  . So now I will be able start engraving.

Finished the mounting holes. Now for clean up ... plan on a brush look. But I will leave some edge work for you guys. 

*Maverick *... what depth do you engrave at ...   .003 or so? That .010 tip is so small.   Remember I can only go to 6000 rpms.


Later,
Pat H.


----------



## maverick (Feb 18, 2013)

Pat, With a .010 tip width, .005 deep will be a good place to start.
Your line width will increase with depth so the letter height is the limiting factor, too deep and the lines run into each other. A brushed finish is the easiest way to deburr the engraving and looks 
great too. Use flood or mist coolant and make 2 passes when cutting for clean sharp engraving.

Regards,
Maverick


----------



## Path (Feb 19, 2013)

Maverick,

Thanks for the input. I'm will be practicing engraving tomorrow ... hope not to break my new tools (got 3 just in case).

My plan is to start out at a depth of .005" step over of .005" speed 5000 rpms and a feed of say 4 ipm. Plunge feed to depth will be 2 ipm.  Repeat at a depth of .010". I'll  only do a few letters at a time at the start to see how it goes. Make adjustments then try the real thing! 

If you see anything bad ... let me know. :hDe:
Thanks,

Pat H


----------



## chucketn (Feb 19, 2013)

WooHoo! got parts today! Most appropriately, I opened the base first! Love the finish on the beam. Looking great! Thanks Dave. Also received Joe's steam chest. Beautiful work guys! Can't wait to get more parts. It's like Christmas in February!.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Feb 19, 2013)

FWIW Dept. I found a M5 counter sink head cap screw that fits the head of my 2-56  hex head screws. I will use it to make a socket driver for my screws! Now to figure out a jig for cutting down the screws for the various lengths required. Maybe a tapped plate, or something like that.

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Feb 19, 2013)

Thanks for the kind words chuck.  I too think its Christmas in February 

Ps chuck I use a stepped tap plate with several holes in it. I think I have 3 steps 1/8 to 3/8 thick this covers most lengths. If I need longer I put washers on to add length.

Dave


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## Path (Feb 19, 2013)

Guess what ... got another package full of parts.

Nice job *Dave*, that Rocking Beam rocks.

Since my panels are almost done (needs sanding etc) I was able to test fit 
the Corian base and Spreader Bars ... Perfect Fit. And looks great
with the contrasting black Corian. Nice, nice .....

Also started a test run for the engraving ... good news is it really looks nice. No tool breakage although I decided to feed at 2.8 instead of 4. 
Bad news ... can't really get all our names and location on the plaque, the width is 3.5" , height is about 3". So back to each plaque will have the builders names only . 
Tomorrow I should be able to post a picture ... if anyone any suggestion please let me know ... time is running short.

*Anyone else nearing shipping?*  I should be shipping early next week.

Later,

Pat H.


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## dreeves (Feb 19, 2013)

Pictures pat!!!!!!!!  Pictures Pictures Pictures. Lol

Dave


----------



## chucketn (Feb 20, 2013)

Hey folks. I noticed while playing with Dave's parts, that I didn't cut the clevis on my crank rod deep enough. It doesn't rotate freely on the beam. Sorry about that. Guess I'll have to set it up in the mill again.
I will go back and check my dimentions against the plans and see if it was just my error or if the dimentions of my parts were off. Are we going to incorperate findings like this in the drawings?:hDe:

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Feb 20, 2013)

I made a nut driver today for the 2-56 hex head screws I'm going to use to assemble the Team 8 engine.
I used the previously mentioned M5 countersunk socket head cap screw. I turned the head of the screw down as thin as I dared. Then I reversed the screw in the lathe chuck and turned down the threaded part until it would tightly fit in a 3/16" brass tube. I previously had made a file handle from pear wood from a tree in my yard that was brought down by a snow storm a couple of years ago.I drilled the handle for a tight fit on the brass tube. I had planned on epoxying the brass into the handle and silver soldering the screw into the brass, but I don't think it will be necessary.

Chuck


----------



## Path (Feb 20, 2013)

Chuck,

I checked the SW assembly for collision at that clevis during rotation ... none but does look close.

So I check my clevis and... oops... the spec is .187" from the pin center line and the thread, measured yours to be about .150".
Not a problem it's an easy fix. 

Thanks for reporting.


Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Feb 20, 2013)

Thanks for checking, Pat. Sorry guys, my bad! I thought I was on top of it.

Chuck


----------



## rhitee93 (Feb 20, 2013)

Hi folks.  I'm still chugging away at my parts.  I bit of a bit much with the shear number of parts I had to make because I was feeling bad that my parts are all pretty simple.  Now looking at the pile of parts on my desk, I don't feel so bad.  I have 120 pieces made, and another 50 to go 

The only thing I have been able to test fit is the steam chest cover, but it lines up nicely with the holes in the chest 

I should be ready to go soon.  I don't think I'll have any trouble shipping by the 28th, but if I do, it will only be by a couple of days.


----------



## joe d (Feb 20, 2013)

Yippee!  Got my first package of parts in the mail today.

A damned good looking base and beam, Dave.

Now I'm really starting to get itchy to get assembling....

Joe


----------



## chucketn (Feb 20, 2013)

Next question... I purchased 100ea.,  2-56 x 3/4" SS hex head screws to assemble the engine. What lengths will I need? I know the ones for the crank rod I made are 1/2", and I've heard(seen) 1/4" mentioned in the thread. Are there any other lengths? I also need ideas for a screw cutting jig. I should probably build one like the one shown earlier in the thread, but I'm looking for creative ideas here guys. Would just tapping some 1/4" rod 1/4" and 1/2", parting to length and then chucking in the lathe and parting off the screw at the jig be best? Do we need any other lengths?
Should we total up the required fasteners and lengths and add a list to the drawings for future builders?
I ask because this will be the most complex project I've ever assembled and would like to know how it's done. All my previous engines had 10 or less fasteners.

Chuck


----------



## ninefinger (Feb 20, 2013)

Hi guys,

I'm still chipping away too.  I've got the little clevis end done, the eccentric and I just am finishing up the rods tonight as I needed a break from the eccentric strap top and bottom halves.  Those parts are what are slowing me down as milling these little guys in steel has been a learning experience for me.  I am aiming for shipping the 28th but if I'm late it too should only be a couple of days.

Later

Mike


----------



## joe d (Feb 21, 2013)

Chuck:

Got your parts today.  Looking good to me!

That's two batches in two days... wonder what's coming tomorrow

Joe


----------



## bazmak (Feb 23, 2013)

Message for path. Hi there watching this project with interest.I would like to make one but dont have a mill/cnc 
When you made the side frames did you have any spares you could sell and post ? if yes let me know the cost
as it would give me a good start.I could never achieve your standards by making them longhand and they are the
highlight of the machine I,m a limey in oz and i think you are in USA REgards Bazmak


----------



## Path (Feb 25, 2013)

Bazmak,

Glad you are enjoying our build, keep looking as the fun is just beginning.
I really think it would be cost prohibitive to make a set of side panels and ship them to you. But I would encourage you to try to make your own using your manual mill, it isn't that difficult and I think the panels would come out just fine. Search this web site ... there are several Gerry's Beam Engines that have been built without using CNC. Give it a try. 

Thanks for viewing,

Pat H.


----------



## dreeves (Feb 25, 2013)

To the team members. I want to confirm if everyone has received there boxes. 

Dave


----------



## Path (Feb 25, 2013)

Path said:


> Guess what ... got another package full of parts.
> 
> Nice job *Dave*, that Rocking Beam rocks.
> ..........



Sure did .. got them last week.

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Feb 25, 2013)

I've received your parts Dave, and JoeD's.

Chuck


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## rhitee93 (Feb 26, 2013)

dreeves said:


> To the team members. I want to confirm if everyone has received there boxes.
> 
> Dave



Yep, I received mine safe and sound.  They are great looking parts too!


----------



## joe d (Feb 26, 2013)

dreeves said:


> To the team members. I want to confirm if everyone has received there boxes.
> 
> Dave




Got'em Dave.

Joe


----------



## dreeves (Feb 26, 2013)

I was worried about the ones going north to my friends in Canada. I feel better

Dave


----------



## ninefinger (Feb 26, 2013)

Dave,

Got the parts in the mail today!
Thanks

Mike


----------



## chrispare (Feb 27, 2013)

Hi guys, I apoligise for not updating you in awhile.
I have recieved 3 different parts and they look great!
I have just got to finnish the links,the other stuff is finished. 
One good day in the shop and they will be done,(just gotta get out there)

I have been working 60hr week and havnt hade much time for shop time (barely time for family time)
Good news is that the project is just about done (I will upload some pics soon,of the steel making machines that I build, BIG stuff)

If all works as I would like I should be able to get my parts out in the next 2 weeks.

chris p


----------



## Path (Feb 27, 2013)

*Chris*,

Glad all is well. 

Need to know what to put on the Name Plate for the auction unit.
Each builder has his own plate ... "HMEM , Team Build 8     2012, and then name".  What do think should be imprinted for the name?

Anyone else have any ideas?


*Team*:

Just mailed the side panels and name plates to you guys (except chris's which is done except for auction unit). 


Later,

Pat H.


----------



## dreeves (Feb 27, 2013)

Pat, looking forward to getting them. Thanks again

Dave


----------



## dalem9 (Feb 28, 2013)

Hi All My parts are done . Will mail shortly .Also have got parts in the mail . Thanks Dale


----------



## rhitee93 (Feb 28, 2013)

Hi All,

Technically, I could mail my parts out now, but I am going to beg for more time.  The "Grounding Link Mounting Blocks" are not fit for the likes of you all.  They look more like they belong in a Picasso.

I'm going to have another go at them.  They should be ready in a few days.

All your parts are in here if you want to see 'em


----------



## chucketn (Feb 28, 2013)

Might be my inexperience, but they look great to me!
I will abide by your decision, but your parts make mine look like  crap!
Chuck


----------



## ninefinger (Feb 28, 2013)

Take all the time you need for my parts - I'm sorta in the same boat.  My skills with steel are still in development lets say and I've been struggling with the eccentric strap parts - trying to get a proper finish.  I did have a good shop session tonight and am much closer to being done now.  A few more nights like tonight and I'll be there...

Mike


----------



## Path (Mar 1, 2013)

Way to go guys ... we are getting closer.
Good to hear your progress. Lots of parts are in mail or will be shortly.

Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 1, 2013)

Here are pistures of my parts . Dale


----------



## chucketn (Mar 1, 2013)

Looking great! Can't wait!

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Mar 1, 2013)

Man everyone is doing great. For me Take the time you need there is no reason to rush I am in no hurry. 

DAve


----------



## Path (Mar 1, 2013)

Dale,

Nice looking parts ...Thm::bow:

Looking forward to getting them ... you should get mine mid next week. 

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 1, 2013)

Got Pat's parts today! WooHoo!Thm: I'm making a list of fastener lengths as I get the parts and fit my 3/4" screws to them. Do you guy's want me to enter them into a spreadsheet  so it can be added to the drawing package? Rather I will enter them into a spread sheet, and if you want it added to the drawing package I'll make it available.

Chuck


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 1, 2013)

My parts are in the mail . Dale


----------



## dreeves (Mar 1, 2013)

I got home from a very bad day and found parts on my door step. It made my day much better. The side plates and plaque look great.

Dave


----------



## chrispare (Mar 2, 2013)

Path said:


> *Chris*,
> 
> Glad all is well.
> 
> ...


 

I think that for the auction unit if you could put built by (then the team members)
or something along that line.
What do you guys think?

alos here is a few pics of what has been takin my time lately.I cannot take credit for all of it as there is many fello employes that have worked hard.

chris


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 2, 2013)

O-kay I give up ,What is it . Dale


----------



## chucketn (Mar 4, 2013)

Got Dale's parts today. Looking great! Nice work Dale!

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Mar 4, 2013)

I got them also and they look great. I am having adding parts on as they are coming in.

Dave


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 5, 2013)

Pat Got your parts today , nice work . Dale


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## chucketn (Mar 7, 2013)

Cutting tiny machine screws to length

I am assembling the Team 8 beam engine on which all fasteners are 2-56. I purchased 100 2-56 x 3/4&#8221;, stainless steel hex head screws for this model. 

I have made a couple jigs from 1/2&#8221; mild steel hex to accomplish this on my lathe.  One jig is 1/4&#8221; and one is 1/2&#8221;. I drilled and tapped each jig for the 2-56 screws, and have cut several to the size required for various components. I am having trouble with the current process. I have to really tighten the screws in the jig or they catch on the parting tool and begin to unscrew themselves back out of the jig.

How do you cut longer screws to length? Do you have a better way to do this without buggering the threads?

BTW, I made a nut driver type tool from a socket head cap screw, a piece of brass tubing and a home made wood handle for these screws that seems to do the job, although the brass hex nuts I have are bigger than the hex screw heads.

Chuck


----------



## weez (Mar 7, 2013)

When cutting small screws I tighten them into a tapped hole in a piece of metal the same thickness as the screw length I need.  I cut them with a hacksaw and then file them flush to the piece of metal to clean up the end.


----------



## joe d (Mar 7, 2013)

Dale: 

I received your parts today.     They came out very nice indeed!

Not too much more to go and we'll all be building!

Cheers, Joe


----------



## joe d (Mar 8, 2013)

Today Pat's parts arrived.  Good looking stuff. I really like the builder's plate.

Joe


----------



## Path (Mar 9, 2013)

Got more parts . This time from Dale.

Pictures look great, but the parts are even better looking and came with nice fasteners. Thm::bow:

Nice work Dale.

Can't wait to start assembling  ... in fact I'm going to start now. 

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 13, 2013)

Pretty quiet lately, everyone o.k.?
I made a screw plate recommended here and on other forums. I added a nut to each screw and used a dremel type tool to cut the screws to length. Faster and better than my previous method.

Chuck


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## chrispare (Mar 13, 2013)

my parts are ready to go just gotta send them out.
they will be out this week.
chris


----------



## Path (Mar 13, 2013)

chrispare said:


> my parts are ready to go just gotta send them out.
> they will be out this week.
> chris



Great news Chris  ... thanks for the update.

I like the idea of engraving all the team members but there is just not  enough room on the plate (so they can be read, that is!)
So I still don't know what to do. 


Anyone else want to update ....stickpoke


Pat H.


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## rhitee93 (Mar 14, 2013)

Path said:


> Anyone else want to update ....stickpoke
> 
> Pat H.



I have the mounting blocks remade except for the mounting holes to screw them to the side frames.  I am staying after work tonight to drill those holes.

Once that is done, they need to spend a night in the tumbler to debur, and I'll be able to mail them all out.

I'll probably make a trip to the post office Saturday morning


----------



## maverick (Mar 14, 2013)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Hello team,
I've received some very nice looking parts and am excited to start assembling them. Pat, the engraving came out great. Did you cut them as a pocket rather than a straight line? Dale, the cylinder is a real jewel and a lot of work I'm sure. I"m still struggling to get enough time to devote to this project. just when I thought I saw light at the end of the tunnel,
it turned out to be a train. Guess I shouldn't complain, work is work.
The crank throws and shafts are done and partly silver soldered, had to order more solder. Flywheel stock is cut and waiting for me and the weekend.
I hope to send some more progress pics soon.

Regards,
Maverick


----------



## chucketn (Mar 14, 2013)

If it helps to get all builders on the plate, how about first initial, last name? Or a reference to this thread? If the latter, we could post the list of builders here.
Thanks for the updates, guys.
Chuck


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## RobinCoulton (Mar 14, 2013)

Hi everyone , just wonted to say this team build idea you guys have set up is really good .
I would love to get involved with one in the future if possible . 
Only problem being I'm in England .
Robin


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## chucketn (Mar 14, 2013)

Robin, why not organize a team build for  members in Great Britain?

Chuck


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## Path (Mar 14, 2013)

rhitee93 said:


> I have the mounting blocks remade except for the mounting holes to screw them to the side frames.  I am staying after work tonight to drill those holes.
> 
> Once that is done, they need to spend a night in the tumbler to debur, and I'll be able to mail them all out.
> 
> I'll probably make a trip to the post office Saturday morning



*Brian,*
Great ... looking forward to those parts. 

Tell me about the tumbler, I have wanted one for some time. Any pictures of it or Model number. Come to think of it ... it's probably a huge commercial one. 

*Maverick,*
Great to hear that your parts are coming along. Looks like they will top notch.

The engraved plate does use pockets. The tool tip is .010" wide the pockets are .017" and up. I used Solidworks but so far have not been able to figure out how to engrave a single line. The CAM needs a edge. Still working on it. But I think in this case the pocket looks better, especially when using a contrasting filler. I plan on spray painting it then wipe the surface to remove the surface paint. Then lightly sand the surface for brush look. Should look nice ... well, the sample did anyway.  

*Chuck,*
Still working on ... the key may be to use single lines rather than a pocket ... just have to figure out a way to that. :wall: What I really wanted was Name and Location ... so that the viewer would appreciate the teams wide geographical  area.


Thanks for the update,

Pat H.


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## ninefinger (Mar 14, 2013)

Hi Team,

I must apologize too for my tardiness, just as I figured out how to machine these parts I was sent out of town on business.  I'm back now and plan on taking a day off to recover from travel etc so I should get some good shop time in and hopefully make some real progress.  The parts I've received so far have been fantastic, I am aiming to get my quality up to match that which I've received.

Regards,

Mike


----------



## chucketn (Mar 14, 2013)

Not to worry, Mike. Life can get in the way sometimes. Keep it fun! That's important.

Chuck


----------



## chrispare (Mar 14, 2013)

I recieved the cylinder today, well Im pleased to announce that the piston and rod work flawlessly with a drop of synthic grease on the orings works with minimal friction  the parts look great! 

Chris


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## dreeves (Mar 14, 2013)

This is what I did with my name plate. I used a Krylon short cuts paint pen. I dabed a coat on and let it dry. I then sanded it and repeted it agan with good fill.

Dave


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## bazmak (Mar 15, 2013)

Hi Guys,its getting a bit boring to us interested outsiders.I know its exciting for all you guys
receiving your items but is anyone assembling yet ? How about some photos.I have been watching
this thread for a while and this engine is on my to do list.Please post some photos BAZMAK


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 15, 2013)

Hey Pat,

The tumbler is nothing special.  It is a small rock tumbler I got as a birthday present 30-some years ago.  I've carried it on through various stages of my life, and used it for all sorts of uses other that what it was intended for.

I'm not an expert on tumbling, but I have a few different types of media for deburring and polishing.  It doesn't work miracles, but its handy for lots of small parts like these.


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 18, 2013)

Well, my parts are away.  Hopefully you will all receive them soon.  I took one last photo of them, and in honor of our Canadian builders, I laid them all out on the kids' air-hockey table 

There were a couple of blemished parts that I had intended to keep for myself.  However when I started packing them all up, I forgot to search them out.  Someone will end up with a steam chest cover with a scratch that should polish out.  Someone else (Well, I hope it is someone else) will get a bell crank link that has a bit of a booger on the edge.  I apologize  






I feel kind of bad.  I had a ton of parts to make, but they are pretty insignificant looking when compared to the bigger parts.  I hope everyone is satisfied with what they get.


----------



## Path (Mar 18, 2013)

*Brian*,

Your parts look great and no apologies necessary. Those little things can be fixed, no one should expert perfect parts. 
I made what 30 parts ... you made 160. I think it's harder to make lots and lots of little parts then a few big parts. 


Looking forward to getting them.


Pat H.


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 21, 2013)

Brian Got your parts today ,Look great . Thanks Dale


----------



## chucketn (Mar 21, 2013)

I'm bummed! No parts in the mail today... It's cold outside and in my shop... Just kidding! It is cold, but sunny and I know parts are coming! Can't wait!
Chuck


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 21, 2013)

dalem9 said:


> Brian Got your parts today ,Look great . Thanks Dale



Thanks for the heads up Dale!  Chuck, your parts should get there soon.  I am a little surprised they didn't arrive today.  Hopefully tomorrow


----------



## Path (Mar 22, 2013)

Got my parts from Brian ... man do they look fantastic ... beautiful finish. Thm:

Is this the finish that the tumbler gives? If so, about how long in the tub?


Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## joe d (Mar 22, 2013)

Chris

Just got your parts this morning.  Looking good!

Joe


----------



## chucketn (Mar 22, 2013)

I received Brian's parts today. Sweet! I thought my parts were small! Brian, you must have the patience of a Saint! Well done!

Chuck


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 22, 2013)

Chris What do you use in your tumbler . I have an old rock tumbler that I got at a grage sale .It may work also if I know what to put in it .Thanks Dale


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 22, 2013)

Path said:


> Got my parts from Brian ... man do they look fantastic ... beautiful finish. Thm:
> 
> Is this the finish that the tumbler gives? If so, about how long in the tub?
> 
> ...



It all depends.  The linkages are all 304 Stainless Steel.  They spent 24 hours with a ceramic media and water, and another 24 hours with corn cob media.  The brass pieces and the small steel spacer just went into the corn cob media for about 12 hours.  The linkage blocks, being carbon steel didn't spend much time in the ceramic/water bath, but spent a day or so in the corncob.

I should also add that this was done in an old drum style rock tumbler.  I have a vibratory one I use for polishing cartridge brass, but I can't use water in it, so it doesn't get much use for deburring.

Small parts are tedious, but I didn't spend squat in material costs.  Some of you guys have some $$$ wrapped up in your parts


----------



## dreeves (Mar 22, 2013)

Brian, Great looking parts . I did not have much in material cost but the shipping got me good.

How did you cut the links?

Dave


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 22, 2013)

Thanks Brian Got it right this time Not much differant then any other mediaum . Thanks Dale


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 22, 2013)

dreeves said:


> Brian, Great looking parts . I did not have much in material cost but the shipping got me good.
> 
> How did you cut the links?
> 
> Dave



Thanks Dave.  I roughed out the links with a waterjet cuter.  I left the holes undersized so that I could ream them afterwards.

Those thin links were a problem.  I forgot how much I don't like drilling 304SS.  I had about 8 of them snag on the reamer and get twisted around my finger.  By the end I was using wood blocks to hold them in place, and only had 1 spare blank left


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 22, 2013)

dalem9 said:


> Thanks Brian Got it right this time Not much differant then any other mediaum . Thanks Dale



No problem   I would like to know more about tumbling finishes but information seems to be hard to come by.  I have some plastic pyramids that work well on some things.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 23, 2013)

I have a drawing correction. While cutting my 3/4" 2-56 hex heads down to assemble the parts received so far, I referred to sheet #17 for the length of the beam bushing bolts. I followed the print and cut them to 1/4" per print. These bolts need to be 3/16".

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Mar 24, 2013)

I was going over the drawings for the umteenth time today and realized there is a couple of  parts missing! There is no air/steam input connector, and no exhaust connector! Guess we get to design/make our own.
That brings up another question. Has anyone designed a standardized compressed air connection system for their model steam engines? Is there a standard, readily available fitting system that can be adapted for powering these engines? Like airbrush fittings? What do you use? 
This will only be my 4th air powered steam engine and all the others use different fittings based on what I could find at the moment (not very organized!). 

Chuck


----------



## Path (Mar 24, 2013)

Path said:


> Looks like we are missing a part drawing.
> I couldn't find anything that holds the Piston Rod to the Beam Links. On page 17 zone A2, "Cylinder Rod End Bushing " is shown that would make that connection, but can't  find a drawing for it. The "Cross Head Link Bushing" (actually our item #33) (note that names are different on page 17 vs the rest of the pages) is what we need except shorter. I would suggest that each builder make their own. Same as #33 except instead the length of .808", it would have a length of .510" or more then face off the excess so that there is just a little overhang when assembling.
> 
> Comments?
> ...


Chuck, 

Yes, those parts have been left off so the builder could decided what was suited for his build.

Another issue:

Way back in late November (post #181) I mentioned a part that I couldn't find a drawing.

Maybe you could take a look and see if my conclusions are correct.

Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 24, 2013)

For those that have soft or silver soldered brass bits before, what can I use for a pickle that I might find around the house? I made an intake piece and soldered a piece of brass tubing into it. I have wine makers citric acid powder, but it's got to be 23-25 years old.

Chuck


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 24, 2013)

Vinger Chuck If not that lemon juice.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 24, 2013)

Thanks, Dale. Fortunately we buy Vinegar by the gallon. I'll try it.

Chuck


----------



## joe d (Mar 25, 2013)

Hi Brian

Got your  parts today.  man o man they are small... glad I didn't have to
make them!  Looking dam fine, Sir!

Joe


----------



## chucketn (Mar 25, 2013)

Pat, I think the missing part you referred to is the same as the "Grounding Link Elbow Joint Bushing", Sheet 15, A4, which was in Brian's parts. I have fitted it to the beam, in the "Beam Parallel Links", and the "Grounding Links" hang from it.

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Mar 25, 2013)

I got some parts put on the engine and here it is.


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 26, 2013)

Hey, now that is starting to look like an engine


----------



## Path (Mar 26, 2013)

chucketn said:


> Pat, I think the missing part you referred to is the same as the "Grounding Link Elbow Joint Bushing", Sheet 15, A4, which was in Brian's parts. I have fitted it to the beam, in the "Beam Parallel Links", and the "Grounding Links" hang from it.
> 
> Chuck




Chuck,

The part I'm referring to is like the part on page 15 zone A4 ...  but shorten to about .508". That one (.508") holds up the Piston Rod. That's the one we have to make ourselves ... I believe.

Thanks for checking,

Pat H.


Pat H.


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 26, 2013)

I'm not following you Pat.  Sheet 15 A4 would be one of the parts I sent out.  Page 15 of the PDF file zone A4 is the piston rod.


----------



## Path (Mar 26, 2013)

rhitee93 said:


> I'm not following you Pat.  Sheet 15 A4 would be one of the parts I sent out.  Page 15 of the PDF file zone A4 is the piston rod.



Brian,

Thanks for checking in.

1st off ... I have page 13 zone A4 for the Piston Rod. 
Actually I'm referring to the part that holds up the piston rod. Yes, you did send out Item 33 (page 15 zone A4) ...  nicely done! The part drawing that is  missing is like that one but shorter ... length should be about .508".
I was pointing out we may have to make that ourselves, because I could not find a drawing for it. 

Pat H.


----------



## littlefold (Mar 27, 2013)

Hi Team 8,
Great build!Cant wait to see them running.
When do you think the auction will take place?I would like to bid on it.Will it be a kit or a complete engine?
I would like to join team and build a engine.(Team Build 9? Anyone?)
This whole thread was just a wonderful read.
Thanks guys.
Tim


----------



## dalem9 (Mar 27, 2013)

Thanks Tim Problably Next Fall for us in the north , but a team can be started anytime just put the word out and see what kind of responce you get. As far as the auction ' I do not know , Dale


----------



## rhitee93 (Mar 27, 2013)

Path said:


> Brian,
> 
> Thanks for checking in.
> 
> ...



Ahh, I understand now.  You meant that there is a part that looks like item 33, but shorter that isn't in the plans.

My head was jut being thicker than normal.  It is perfectly clear to me now


----------



## chucketn (Mar 27, 2013)

I received Chris' parts today and of course I'm trying to assemble them. I noticed what I think is a dimention problem, which brought up a couple more questions. Sheet 14, Valve Link Bellcrank and Bellcrank Mounting Post. The BellCrank mounts on the mounting post which mounts to the Steam Chest Cover, right? If so, the mounting hole in the Bellcrank is too small. The sholder on the mounting post is .141" and the hole in the belcrank is .125".
I was a pencil and paper or ink and velum draftsman for a while some 44 years ago, but I don't recall a drafting symbol that looked like an upside down pine tree! For example, on sheet 14, on the drawing of the valve link rod, there is a dimention at the right end, that is .087 preceded by a o with a slash which I construe to mean diameter, followed by the pine tree symbol and 0.125 The latter is what I don't understand. Is it something new in CAD? Does it mean depth?
If anyone has these parts assembled and can post a picture, I would appreciate it.

Chuck

Chuck


----------



## Path (Mar 27, 2013)

chucketn said:


> I received Chris' parts today and of course I'm trying to assemble them. I noticed what I think is a dimention problem, which brought up a couple more questions. Sheet 14, Valve Link Bellcrank and Bellcrank Mounting Post. The BellCrank mounts on the mounting post which mounts to the Steam Chest Cover, right? If so, the mounting hole in the Bellcrank is too small. The sholder on the mounting post is .141" and the hole in the belcrank is .125".
> 
> I was a pencil and paper or ink and velum draftsman for a while some 44 years ago, but I don't recall a drafting symbol that looked like an upside down pine tree! For example, on sheet 14, on the drawing of the valve link rod, there is a dimention at the right end, that is .087 preceded by a o with a slash which I construe to mean diameter, followed by the pine tree symbol and 0.125 The latter is what I don't understand. Is it something new in CAD? Does it mean depth?
> If anyone has these parts assembled and can post a picture, I would appreciate it.
> ...


If I understand you correctly ... the drawing is correct. The Valve Link  Bellcrank mounting hole (.125") is suppose to stop at the .141"  diameter lip. That leaves a gap between the Bellcrank surface and the Hex portion of  the Mounting Post. This gap is needed so the Valve Link Rod can fit between the two. Take a look at post #288. There is a SW rendering that shows the placement of the Valve Link Rod. Look at post 260 there is a short U tube that also may help.
I could make another better view if needed.

The upside down tree is depth ... don't know it is used in this drawing since it is a thru hole. 


Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 27, 2013)

I must be thick, 'cause I don't see it! Can you do an exploded view or maybe an end view from the cylinder end? 
I'm going out to the cooollldd workshop to see if I can come up with some 1/8" brass to make the piston rod hanger that's missing. Would aluminum do? I think I have some 1/8" aluminum rod.

Chuck


----------



## Path (Mar 27, 2013)

Chuck,

I will try and get something up this pm. but it might be a bit late. 

Brass is much better  but I suppose Aluminum would do. But then again I'd rather send you some. 

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 27, 2013)

Pat,
I found some 1/8" brazing rod I think, and made the missing part. It's kinda red looking compared to brass.
I now have the piston rod hung from the beam!
Can't wait to get Mike and Mike's parts(where have I heard that before?).

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Mar 27, 2013)

Take your time, Pat. No rush.

Chuck


----------



## Path (Mar 27, 2013)

Chuck,
Take a look at these views:

Pat H.


----------



## dreeves (Mar 27, 2013)

Hey pat great job I have been holding off on that part till I got a better idea how it goes together.  

Dave


----------



## chucketn (Mar 28, 2013)

Pat,
The links aren't working. In fact, I cannot reach www.phutcheson.net.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Mar 28, 2013)

ninefinger, how you doing? Do you need help?

Chuck


----------



## Path (Mar 28, 2013)

chucketn said:


> Pat,
> The links aren't working. In fact, I cannot reach www.phutcheson.net.
> 
> Chuck




Try again. Dave was able to view the images. Also my link worked.


Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 28, 2013)

Nope. Still can't connect to it. In fact, the links in your post have the dredded 'NO' symbol.

Chuck


----------



## Path (Mar 28, 2013)

Chuck,

Don't know. I went to a different computer and used Internet Explorer ... everything came up fine.

Have you been to my web site before?

Can you view other images ... say post 400?

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 28, 2013)

I can see the pics in post 400. I currently have 6 IE windows open with the 6 forums I watch, plus Firefox open to my Google home page with weather reports on it. I cannot ping or tracert to www.phutcheson.net. Can't remember if I've ever been there before. I have flushed DNS cache with no help. Must be a router down between here and there. Just tried Firefox and got the equivelent error.

Chuck


----------



## Path (Mar 28, 2013)

First time anyone has reported that they couldn't get to my website. 

PM me your email address and I will email them to you later today.

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Mar 28, 2013)

PM sent, Pat.


----------



## dreeves (Mar 28, 2013)

I was able to see them on the forum. I did not try the link

DAve


----------



## chucketn (Mar 28, 2013)

Can someone ping www.phutcheson.net and send me the IP address?

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Mar 28, 2013)

Found the problem. I was using a public DNS server, switched back to my ISP's DNS and got connected to www.phutcheson.net. Now to go back and look at the pic's pat posted.
Thanks for your help and patience folks. Got the parts installed and cut screws for the rest.

Chuck


----------



## chrispare (Mar 28, 2013)

littlefold said:


> Hi Team 8,
> Great build!Cant wait to see them running.
> When do you think the auction will take place?I would like to bid on it.Will it be a kit or a complete engine?
> Thanks guys.
> Tim


 
I dont know what the others think but here is what i suggest,
When we have all the parts and a few built the I can do the auction and offer it either in kit form or I can assemble it. Whomever wins the auction has the choice.
Any thoughts?

Those pics that pat has up look great, cannot wait to get all the pieces its going to look great!

chris


----------



## dreeves (Mar 28, 2013)

How are the other guys making out with the other parts. Chime in with status or a need for help.  

DAve


----------



## maverick (Mar 31, 2013)

I'm still here guys. First day off in 3 weeks and the end of an 70 to 80 hour 
work week (not sure if last sunday counts as this week or last). 
I'm thankful for the work but am really beat. With the major jobs shipped,
I can again resume work on our parts. The pile of parts so far looks great
and is a huge incentive to get the cranks and flywheels done so hold tight
everyone.

Regards,
Maverick


----------



## Path (Mar 31, 2013)

Maverick,

Thanks for the update ... looking forward to getting your parts.

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Apr 1, 2013)

Hey Ninefinger, how about an update? You O.K.?

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Apr 1, 2013)

I'll be leaving in a couple days on a trip to New York State for a family visit, a fishing trip, and a side trip to Cabin Fever. Will be back home the end of the month. Anyone else going to Cabin Fever?

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Apr 1, 2013)

Chuck, I will be there with some of my engines and the teambuild engine. Look for the HMEM banner that tin flies

DAve


----------



## chucketn (Apr 2, 2013)

DAve, do you have any pictures of the banner so I can recognize it from a distance?

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (Apr 2, 2013)

Chuck, Its the banner in the top left of this page. Tin may have a picture

Dave


----------



## Path (Apr 3, 2013)

You guys have a great time, bring back lots of pictures to post on a new thread

Pat H.


----------



## ninefinger (Apr 3, 2013)

Still here guys, I've been loaded down at work and family activities that have sucked all my "spare" time I thought I had...

Anyways - I have another chance to get some shop time in this weekend.  Its the "strap" that is giving me all the grief - I've wasted numerous hours scrapping lots of parts on this little bugger but I think I've go it licked and will give it one more kick at the can so to speak.  I hope to have some positive news this weekend to update you all....sorry about the delay...

Mike


----------



## dreeves (Apr 3, 2013)

Mike, no worries glad your still with us. Was getting worried something happened to ya.  Im in no hurry

Dave


----------



## Path (Apr 4, 2013)

Mike,

Thanks for reporting in and all is well. Looking forward to your parts.

Pat H.


----------



## chrispare (Apr 16, 2013)

I haven't gotten any parts lately how's everyone doin.


----------



## maverick (Apr 16, 2013)

Good news and a bit of bad. I started to silver braze the crankshaft bits.
The first is a loss, the second is just a mess, the third might be passable
after some cleanup work. As the process is developed, the parts should come out quicker and nicer. I hope I made enough extras.

Regards to all;
Maverick


----------



## dreeves (Apr 28, 2013)

Just checking in with our missing parts. How are you doing? Not sure what parts are outstanding.  

Dave


----------



## ninefinger (May 6, 2013)

Guys,

I haven't given up - yet!  I completed 1 of the eccentric straps after coming so close and then trashing the 1st one.  I have a process now - I just need to eek out a couple of hours together so I can run a bunch without interruptions (which is part of the cause of the 1st ruined part.. )
I'll check back in next Monday - this week holds some promise of a bit of free time - my apologies for the extreme delay - life has gotten in the way of play (I haven't been cheating and making other projects either - just no shop time at all  

Mike


----------



## Path (May 6, 2013)

Mike,

Great to hear that you are on your way to finishing your parts. Thanks for responding to my PM ...  

Are the straps the only parts left?

Looking forward to next Monday. 

Pat H.


----------



## maverick (May 7, 2013)

Here is a peek at the crankshaft progress. The one in the foreground is 
freshly silver brazed and the other has had a bit of cleanup.







My previous silver brazing experience was on carbide form tools and various industrial repairs where appearance was secondary. There is quite an art to keeping the silver confined to just the joint and not run all over the place. I was happy to find that runout was minimal after the main shaft was cut.

Regards,
Maverick


----------



## chucketn (May 7, 2013)

Good job Maverick!

Chuck


----------



## Path (May 7, 2013)

Maverick,

Looking good Thm:...
If you can ... it would be nice the see your brazing setup.

Thanks for the update and picture. 

Pat H.


----------



## rhitee93 (May 7, 2013)

Sweet 
There is a fair bit of work sitting there in that crank assembly


----------



## chucketn (May 19, 2013)

How about an update, guys?

Chuck


----------



## dreeves (May 24, 2013)

As Chuck said an Update would be great. I dont care how long it take but at least update us. Let us know if we can help.

Dave


----------



## chucketn (May 25, 2013)

I've started making the missing parts. I have completed the beam pivot bearings and started the crankshaft bearings.
I have found there is a problem with the linkages over the piston rod. Something is too long as the crosshead link mounting and the piston rod mounting foul each other. Anyone else find this?

Chuck


----------



## Path (May 25, 2013)

Chuck,

So far I have not been able to see the problem.
SolidWorks does not show any interference between any linkages.
Just to clarify .."crosshead link mounting" is on page 17, there it is called "crosshead link mounting block" also known as item 35.  Is that the correct part?

Also I'm not sure what the "piston rod mounting" is ... can you verify for me?
Maybe a photo would help.

Another question ... is it the fasteners that are touching?

Thanks,

Pat H


----------



## chucketn (May 26, 2013)

I'll take a picture in a bit.Got to have my coffee first.
The piston rod mounting is the clevis on the end of the piston rod. The interference is greater than the heads of the fasteners.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (May 26, 2013)

I think I've figured it out. Remember the discussion on the missing drawing? I made the pin/spacer that connects the piston rod to the drop llnks too long. I'll trim it and check the fit.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (May 26, 2013)

I shortened the part mentioned to minimum length, but that was not enough. The interference remained. I then added a #2 brass washer to each end of the brass frame support in front of the drop link support. The washers would need to be trimmed in diameter, but they are a temporary fix.
I have attached pictures of the interference points and the washer locations.
Let me know if anyone else runs into this problem.
Chuck


----------



## Path (May 26, 2013)

Chuck,

Great pictures ... helps a lot. 

See page 17, the Cylinder Rod End Bushing Bolt needs a head thickness of .030". Yours looks a lot thicker. 
This will leave about .063" for the Ground Link Bushing Bolt head. That bolt may also need trimming a little. Other parts may also thinning a tad as well. It just depends on the thickness stack up. Also consider the Grounding Link Spacer Bushing (page 15) maybe instead of .093"  trim it down to say .090". This gives a little more room. Whatever adjustment needed ... do both sides.

Thanks for the update... looks like your coming along nicely,

Pat H


----------



## jwcnc1911 (May 26, 2013)

Chuck,

That's looking pretty good.  I know its not finished but I'd like to see more!

Also, what part of E TN are you in?  I'm in N AL.


----------



## chucketn (May 26, 2013)

JW,
I'm near Jonesborough, just off I81. I used to have inlaws in Huntsville many years ago.
As you know, this is a team build. This(see pic below) is where we're at so far. If you go back to the first couple pages of this thread, you'll find the plans we're working from.

Chuck


----------



## jwcnc1911 (May 27, 2013)

Chuck,

Nice to see some one close.  I work in Huntsville and live a short piece from I65 (I'm sure you know I65).

I didn't download the plans for this build but I've followed all the way as I'm very interested in doing a team build but have to finish the 4 I'm working on now (and upload some pics so people can "trust" me).

Do you know of any clubs or groups for model engineering down here in the SE?

I'd love to not be the only person I know who is into model engines.


----------



## chucketn (May 27, 2013)

JW,
I'm in the same boat here. Not many into this hobby here either. Yhat's why I'm a member on so many hobby machinist forums.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (May 28, 2013)

The crank bearings are done except for rounding the tops. Need to make a couple of filing butons for that.
Today I'm working on the crank. I'm making the throw plates from brass as that's all I have in round stock big enough. If I acuratly ream the holes in the throws for a light press fit on 1/4" drill rod, can I make the crank rods (3 pieces) to length and press them in and solder? Or am I asking for trouble?
The plans say to make the main rod one piece and solder, then cut out the center. 

Chuck


----------



## Path (May 28, 2013)

Chuck,

What about post 456?

Pat H


----------



## chucketn (May 28, 2013)

In post 455 I showed how I fixed the interference. I trimmed the pin for the piston rod and added washers to the spreader. The brassbushes  in the drop link were to small for me to try triming.

Chuck


----------



## Path (May 28, 2013)

What is the height of the screw heads ... ? Those you should be able to face off.
The washer solution may cause other issues later on.

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (May 28, 2013)

What issues would the washers cause?
I'll measure the bolt heads in a moment. Just finishing lunch.

Chuck


----------



## Path (May 28, 2013)

For starters ... the Bottom Cylinder Head  is 1.000 ... same as the spreader bars.
Now that part would need washers or shims.
Follow that extra width to the other mating parts ... some may no longer fit correctly. 

You really need to fix the real issue for the interference whether it's the screw heads or other parts in that area, otherwise you may have all kinds of fit issues elsewhere.

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (May 28, 2013)

The screw heads are .044". I'll try skimming .020" 0ff a couple.

Chuck


----------



## Swifty (May 29, 2013)

I had the same problem when I made the metric version earlier this year, ended up skimming the heads on the bolts down to give me just enough clearance.

Paul.


----------



## maverick (May 29, 2013)

A short update,
I've got 4 crankshafts finished, 4 more soldered, 1 "lost in process" and hopefully enough parts to make 4 more. The flywheels are still waiting
to be machined. 
Chuck, I can send a crank so you can test fit the rest of your parts.
The flywheel will catch up in a few weeks.

Regards,
Maverick


----------



## chucketn (May 29, 2013)

would love to be the guinea pig, Maverick! Do you have my address?

Chuck


----------



## Path (May 29, 2013)

Maverick,

Great update.woohoo1

Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## maverick (May 29, 2013)

Chuck,
I have the address list from Pat, one crankshaft coming your way.
Go ahead and try it and if everything looks OK I'll send out some more.
Sorry it's taking so long. I'm happy to have so much work, but spare time is rare.

Regards,
Maverick


----------



## chucketn (May 29, 2013)

Stuff happens, Maverick. I spent my share of time unemployed during my working life, and it's not fun. I'm retired now, and just keeping my head above water myself. Take advantage of the work while it's available. Keep on keepin' on...

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (May 30, 2013)

Got the eccentric turned and drilled today. Even made a couple of slotted set screws to secure it. Many parts scrapped/remade today. Tried making a jig for making the slotted set screws. Drilled and tapped a piece of 3/8" mystery steel 6-32 to hold the screws for slotting. Ended up using a dremel cutoff blade and mandrel on the mill to cut the slots. cut the set screws to length with a set of crimping pliers that had the screw cutting feature.
On to the eccentric strap tomorrow.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Jun 2, 2013)

Completed the eccentric strap and eccentric rod today. I am weel pleased with how it came out. Eccentric rod clevis is started. Had to stop to watch the last 60 laps of the Dover race!
Still need to mill the crank journals to shape and pin them, or maybe solder as the locktite I used is not holding. Probably because it's 40+ years old...
Anyone else making the missing parts?

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Jun 3, 2013)

Well, it's complete! I finished the eccentric strap this morning. Now the rebuilding/adjusting begins. I have to rework my crank as it's a bit wobbly. As I mentioned previously, I assembled the crank with Perma-Lok anaerobic sealant/adhesive, but it's real old and didn't hold. I'll take better care reassembling it and probably silver solder the parts this time. The only problem I see is freeing it up enough to run slowly. I can turn it over by hand and with my cordless drill but lots of drag yet. I lubed the engine with graphite lock spray and that seems to help. I may add oiling holes or oilers to the crank bearings and the beam pivot bearings. Need to get one of those needle oilers!

Pic's attached. Tried to attach a video but AVI format was rejected.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Jun 3, 2013)

Here's my crappy video.

http://s571.photobucket.com/user/chucketn/media/DSCF1409_zps48a6c6f3.mp4.html

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Jun 3, 2013)

I got it to run briefly on air! All's well. Now to re-do the crank!

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Jun 3, 2013)

woohoo1woohoo1I reworked the crank and soldered it, actually soldered it twice! Got it cleaned up and reassembled. Still a little stiff. Had a heck of a time with timing. Finally, IT'S A RUNNER! Video here:

http://s571.photobucket.com/user/chucketn/media/DSCF1411_zps580b99dc.mp4.html

Forgive the black mess, spray graphite. And forgive the shortness of the video. I am tickeled beyond words! woohoo1woohoo1

Chuck


----------



## dalem9 (Jun 3, 2013)

Wonderful Chuck Lookes GREAT . Dale    See I told you it is a great feeling


----------



## jwcnc1911 (Jun 3, 2013)

I really like that formieca base.  I wasn't to keen on it when I saw it earlier in the thread but the light colour actually goes well with the aluminum in my opinino.

Glad it's running for you!


----------



## Path (Jun 4, 2013)

Way to go chuck 
Looks fantastic th_wav.
Do you plan to add any paint to it?

Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Jun 4, 2013)

No paint other than that on the plaque, Pat. I still have a bit of finishing, and cleanup to do. That will be a lot easier now that I know it will run. Thanks Team, I've really enjoyed the build. It has really expanded my skills and boosted my confidence.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Jun 4, 2013)

Just a comment on the operation of this engine. After I got the timing set and the engine running, it would stop often. The nut I used on the eccentric pivot arm came loose. I reccommend loctite on it.

Chuck


----------



## Path (Jun 11, 2013)

Ninefinger and Maverick ...

How about a update on your parts? 

Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## ninefinger (Jun 19, 2013)

Hi All,

I'll keep it short - here's the visual report on where I'm at.
1st pic is all the parts good, in progress and bad, 2nd is just the "good".

Its the eccentric strap that is giving me grief - steel, small drills and taps, small part holding and a homemade cnc with backlash are all driving me crazy trying to make these parts.  I've got 2 finished eccentrics - but they need to be lapped in to run smooth.  I haven't done the bearings blocks as I thought they would be easier but I may jump to them to get some real progress...

Not much time to play lately but with the kids school and "winter" activities done as of tomorrow I am going to make time to hold up my end of this team effort. 

Thanks for your patience guys...

Mike


----------



## dreeves (Jun 19, 2013)

Looking great mike. I'm glad your still with us. 

Dave


----------



## Path (Jun 20, 2013)

*Mike*,

Thanks for the update .

If there is anything we can help with ... just let us know. 

*Maverick*,

Any news? Did you send Chuck a crankshaft?


Pat H.


----------



## chucketn (Jun 20, 2013)

I did not receive a crankshaft. I went ahead and made my own. My beam is complete and running.
Now I'm thinking about making a flyball govenor for it. I'm really interested in the Pickering because of my name.

Chuck


----------



## Path (Jun 20, 2013)

chucketn said:


> I did not receive a crankshaft. I went ahead and made my own. My beam is complete and running.
> Now I'm thinking about making a flyball govenor for it. I'm really interested in the Pickering because of my name.
> 
> Chuck




I suspected that was the case. The picture of yours didn't match Mavericks.
But I wanted to be sure.

You did a nice job. Keep us posted on your mods.

Pat H.


----------



## IrnHed (Jul 16, 2013)

maverick said:


> Here is a peek at the crankshaft progress. The one in the foreground is
> freshly silver brazed and the other has had a bit of cleanup.
> 
> 
> ...



I've heard that "White-Out" will prevent the silver solder from running outside the lines.  The little bottles that have a brush in them sounds worth a try.  (Whadda Ya Mean, it's not on the shelf anymore?  Just ask the most senior clerk at the stationary store & she'll find it for you)  I;ve never used it as my jobs (brass stamps) are not that appearance sensitive.
Keep on keeping on Guys!  Looking Good!

IrnHed


----------



## ninefinger (Jul 23, 2013)

Hi guys,

I'm still here but unfortunately I can't make it into my basement workshop to make any parts despite an abundance of time...
This is due to my breaking my leg (3 breaks actually) and having an external fixation (rods and clamps) while I wait for surgery (long story why I haven't had it yet..).oh:

Rest assured that as soon as I can make it to my shop I will continue building as there is only so much interesting stuff on tv and the internet.

Regards,

Mike


----------



## dreeves (Jul 23, 2013)

Mike I hope all goes well. I'm not in a rush I hope to get everyone's parts and not make any as to have a complete team built engine.  I hope maverick will come back in the build.  Get well and take care of the leg

Dave


----------



## Path (Jul 30, 2013)

Mike,

That must have been pretty bad mishap .... 

Take care of yourself. When you get to feeling better and able to move around again ... careful on those stairs   ... then maybe you can continue building.

Looking forward to some great parts.

Pat H.


----------



## chrispare (Sep 12, 2013)

How's the healing going.


----------



## ninefinger (Sep 15, 2013)

Slow....
I now have 3 plates and a pile of screws holding my lower leg together in proper alignment.
I am not allowed to put weight on my leg for 3 months which will bring me to the end of October.  I am feeling better with almost no pain most days so that is good, but standing on one leg is not much fun and I find myself wiped out after the work day.
I haven't forgotten about my commitment here - I found a few tips for how to produce the parts that have been giving me trouble and I hope to be able to give them a try out sometime soon - even if its only for a short time in the shop.  

Mike


----------



## dreeves (Sep 15, 2013)

Great to hear. I hope your path stays straight. I just wish our other missing person would check in

Dave


----------



## dreeves (Dec 6, 2013)

Checking in to see if there is any progress on the missing parts?  Mike I hope you are getting better.

Dave


----------



## ninefinger (Dec 6, 2013)

I am getting better.  I've been walking without a cast for 1 week now.  Still can't stand for long periods (ie 1 hr +) due to swelling in my leg but it is getting better and I will be getting more shop time as the winter progresses. (no skiing or hockey for me this winter:wall: )

Funny enough today was a day off for me (my 1st since going back to work) and I did get in my workshop for almost an hour to try and clean up a touch.  Its just one giant mess right now.

I do have a new plan of attack for the little eccentric straps that have been giving me a hard time - hopefully this time it works.

Mike


----------



## Path (Dec 6, 2013)

Mike,

Great to hear that all is well and getting better each day. 

But don't overdue it, the cold weather may give you and your new hardware some pain.


Anyone else up to an update??


Pat H


----------



## dreeves (Dec 6, 2013)

Mike, great to hear you are doing better. Take it easy and have a happy Holliday that goes to all the team members.

  Like I said before I'm in no hurry for the parts.  I just wish our other missing member would post something.

Dave


----------



## chrispare (Feb 27, 2014)

Just checking in on those other parties that are sstill workin on thier parts? 
How's that leg? 

It's pretty cold here lately but springs around the corner. 

Chris


----------



## dreeves (May 16, 2014)

Just Checking in Looking for more parts.

Dave


----------



## maverick (Sep 2, 2014)

Hello guys,
I sent a note to Chris to let him know what was happening with me, don't know if it got around. Away from home right now for some R & R. Will take stock of parts and
Let you know what the status is. Chris suggested sending parts out as is. Will know better what is is next week. Any way, I'm on the mend I hope.
Take care,
Maverick


----------



## Path (Sep 2, 2014)

Maverick,

Glad to hear you are up and running!
Can you shoot me a PM on what's going on?

Thanks,

Pat H.


----------



## dreeves (Sep 2, 2014)

Maverick, great to hear you are up and around again. I look forward to see what you have.  Take your time and don't over Do it.

Dave


----------



## dreeves (Dec 26, 2014)

Im very disappointed with how this team build has come out. Most of the people involved have got there parts out. Some have totaly dropped off with no responce. we all put out a lot of effort to complete our work along with money. I spent over $150 to ship my parts out and I would gladly do it again if needed. This goes out to the members who have not sent your parts. Let us know what help you need or tell us you are not going to complete the parts. 

Dave


----------



## aonemarine (Dec 26, 2014)

Geez  11-18-2012 (post #137) I was interested in getting into this team build.....Sometimes missing the boat can be a blessing....


----------



## Path (Dec 26, 2014)

Wishing all the builders and viewers a Happy Holiday and great New Year..


Okay ... let's see what it takes to get this Team Build 8 back on track. 

Today I'm off doing family stuff, but tomorrow Saturday I will start a review of where we are.

In the meantime would the team members that would like to continue ...
pm or post here. Or at least let us know your commitment level .. if any.

Far as I know only chuck has complete his engine ... a very nice one at that.Thm:

Anyone else finish their engine?

I would suggest we regroup and reassign parts and continue.

stickpoke  Ninefinger and Maverick ... would you be willing to mail all the parts that you have finished to me?... I will then mail them to the members who need them.
This will keep your cost down.

For the parts not finished I would build some of them and the other members would build some as well.

Let's see where we are and go from there ...

Comments and suggestions are welcomed,

Pat H


----------



## dalem9 (Dec 26, 2014)

Path Thank you for making an effort To get this back on track . I have just about given up on this . Would be nice to get them done thou. Thanks again Dale


----------



## dreeves (Dec 26, 2014)

Path, sorry for my rant but like Dale I would like to complete it with as many team parts as possible.  

Dave


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## chrispare (Dec 27, 2014)

I am still in this build and will help with any part within my capability. 
Also hope that the missing members are doing ok?
I am glad to see this build hopefully get back on track as I have 2 models in a box missing a whole bunch of parts. Lol

Chris


----------



## chucketn (Dec 27, 2014)

I gave up on getting the missing parts a long time ago, as you all know. I went ahead and made the parts needed to complete my build. Not to diss the missing members, but it left a bad taste in my mouth for team builds, such that I will probably never participate in another... I understand that life happens. But the missing members should have manned up and accepted the many offers of help that were tendered.
I do thank the members that completed and distributed their parts. The Team 8 engine is my favorite engine in my meager collection. I hope to build a complete engine to the standard of the Team 8 build, one day.

Chuck


----------



## joe d (Dec 27, 2014)

Hi Guys

I'm still interested in completing this engine, it's sitting in a box on the workbench
as I've not had the drive to finish up the missing bits....

If we are going to just go ahead and take on the missing parts with those of us who are still interested, I'm in.  I'm pretty sure I've received everything that has been 
sent out, I presume that everyone got the parts I made.  

Lets finish this thing off!

Joe


----------



## dreeves (Dec 27, 2014)

I'm also in if needed. Would love to hear from missing members. If they have even partial parts made send them to one of us to complete.

Dave


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## maverick (Jan 13, 2015)

I have at this time 8 crankshafts (some need journals polished) and 2 to solder. Also 8 flywheels (no spokes yet) and material for the rest. 
I've spent most of the last year barely able to work at all but improving slowly. Will try to post updates and even pics if I can find my photobucket account.


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## Path (Jan 13, 2015)

Maverick ..

Great to hear from you ... wEc1 back.

Glad that you are improving.


Are you sure you want to continue ... I think that that would great if you can,
but only if you want to. If needed I'm sure we could unload some of the parts if that would help. Otherwise I'm looking forward to seeing pictures!

Now all we need is to hear from Ninefinger.stickpoke

Pat H.


----------



## ninefinger (Jan 15, 2015)

Hi All,

I do apologize for not completing my parts.  Circumstances have conspired to defeat me.  I never intended to drop the ball and I did try very hard to make the parts assigned to me but  
1.  Inexperience with the size of parts lead to me scrapping most of what I worked on, wasting the time I had available to me in the shop (before the original deadline)
2.  After the original deadline my work situation changed and I had less available shop time
3.  I broke my leg (no time)
4.  As I recovered from the broken leg I have spent almost no time the workshop (low motivation, lack of time) - recovery has been slow and now a year and a half on I'm 80% better - but standing still gives me grief sometimes 
5.  Lastly I've very recently moved houses (Dec 30-Jan 1) and my workshop is now not together at all...
I was going to try one more approach to making my assigned parts (redesign with ease of fabrication in mind) but that has been put off till I get my shop back together - at this time its looking like it will be a few months...  
I am willing to send to Pat the parts as they stand along with all the parts I received - maybe he can find 1 person to finish them off and they can have a complete engine for their efforts.  
Sorry.
Mike


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## chrispare (Jan 16, 2015)

First glat to heat that the two of you are doing ok..

ninefinger how far have you gotten on the bearing cap and holder for the beam and crank?

I would like to offer to finnish those up for you ( since in in canada the shipping wont be bad)
I would also like to extend the offer to maveric to finnish up the crank shafts at the same time..

My opinion is leave no man behind ,you started the challange even if not able to finnish on your own should still get the trophy. ( win as a team loose as a team) 

If thats good with the rest let me know 

Chris p


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## Path (Jan 16, 2015)

Ninefinger ..

Thanks for letting us know what been going on ... and that you are nearing a complete recovery. 

*Chris* ... great offer.  However, I would like to take on some of the parts and others team members may as well.
So if you do get ninefingers parts ... review them, see what is needed and we can reassign what is needed to those who are willing to take on additional parts.

Also I agree with ninefinger keeping the engine ... the only question is ...
do we mail him the parts or put it together for him. I think that he should decided .. either way is fine with me.

*Maverick* ... do you want to unload any parts?


Pat H


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## chucketn (Jan 16, 2015)

I can appreciate the health issues that have interfered with ninefinger and Maverick. I am glad to do anything to help, including a contribution to the mailing costs.
I would like to see all parts completed and the 10th engine auctioned as per the original plan. 
Let me know what I can do.

Chuck


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## maverick (Jan 17, 2015)

Pat,
I am continuing with my parts, there has been more progress in the last month that most of last year. I have some pics but was unable to access my old 
photo sharing account. Is this still the only way to post them? I could email
them to someone for reposting if someone could PM an address.

Ninefinger, I'm sorry about your health issues and hope you are able to return 
to good health soon. I do know for certain that when things start going downhill they pick up speed in a hurry.

Maverick


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## ninefinger (Jan 17, 2015)

Guys,
Let me find the parts I made and send them out to Pat and / or Chris.  Cost hasn't been the issue for me and I'm more than willing to front my share of the cost of getting the parts out to the various members.  
As it stands now I don't foresee having a workshop for a few months minimum so I can discuss with Pat and Chris how to divide up the parts made / remaining to be made.

Mike


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## maverick (Mar 16, 2015)

Hi Team, 
My parts are going really well, I do have a pic but can't find my photobucket account info. If one of you will send me your email address, I will send a pic for you to post.
I'm down to finish work and the setscrew hole on the flywheels. There are 8 Crankshafts done and 2 that got bent, so I will redo them as I made spares.
I"m happy to say these parts will be on there way soon.

Maverick


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## chucketn (Mar 16, 2015)

Good to hear, Maverick. I can post the picture for you here, or on my photobucket.
I'll pm you my e-mail address.

Chuck


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## chucketn (Mar 16, 2015)

Maverick, you can post the pic here. Go to reply, scroll down to below the text box. You will see 'Manage Attachments' button. Click on that. Another window will open allowing you to browse your computer to find the picture. Click 'Upload'. If you click 'Preview' instead of post you can see what it will look like.
PM me or post here if you have problems.

Chuck


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## chucketn (Mar 16, 2015)

Here ya go Maverick.

Nice parts, by the way...

Chuck


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## dreeves (Mar 16, 2015)

Wow looking great. Can't wait to see them in person. 

Dave


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## chrispare (Mar 17, 2015)

That's great. 

Looking toward to them

Chris


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## dalem9 (Mar 24, 2015)

wow looking great  Very nice parts


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## maverick (Apr 15, 2015)

Flywheel setscrew holes are done and they are ready to go. Most of the cranks are ready also. I don't remember if the team members address's were posted, any clues?

Maverick


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## Path (Apr 15, 2015)

Maverick,


Great progress .... 

I have the addresses and can email them to you ... probably Thursday as I'm tied up with taxes and severe back pain. Also we need to know what members needs these parts. 

Thanks,

Pat


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## dreeves (Apr 15, 2015)

Pat I still need my part.  Man they are looking great

Dave


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## chucketn (Apr 16, 2015)

I would like the parts also, they look better than mine!

Chuck


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## maverick (Apr 16, 2015)

Pat, Taxes give me a pain too, just a little lower than my back. I have to get some shipping material, any suggestions? Maybe USPS flat rate boxes? They seem to be the 
cheapest.


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## joe d (Apr 16, 2015)

Just checked the box of parts on the workbench, I need both.

I'm happier about tax time this year, just got a nice refund from the Provincial
Gov't.  I smell a tool-shopping trip....

Cheers, Joe


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## dalem9 (Apr 20, 2015)

Pat I still need my part


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## Path (Apr 22, 2015)

Team update ...

Looks like people are checking in and letting us know that they need the parts that Maverick has been making. That's great ... so in the next few days I will try to get hold of those who have not responded, then I will provide the addresses to Maverick.

Maverick ... thanks for hanging in there and finishing your project ...
I would probably use the USPS flat rate boxes.

Now the not so good news ...

A little bit of background..

Some months ago ninefinger mailed his parts to Chris for review to see what needed to be done. After his review we agreed that Chris would finish Items 14,16, 37 and 38 and I would do 15, 17, 39 and 40.

At that time I thought I would be able to finish those parts without any problems ... not so. For the last 7 months my back has very painful but I was a able to move around and if needed just sit. But I did have a MRI which reveled a herniated disk pressing against some nerves. We decided to wait and see if things got better ... they did for a while. But it really got worse so I got another MRI ... much worse ... Now it's time surgery.
They say recovery time is about 3 - 4 months.

So here is what I'm asking ...
I would like for another team member(s) to pick these parts.
I don't want to delay finishing this project any longer.

Any takers?

Path


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## Cogsy (Apr 22, 2015)

I'm too far away to help in your build but I wish you well with your surgery. A good friend of mine has had it and it worked wonders but although his pain reduced quickly, his lifting and twisting abilities were severely restricted for a long time. He also has to be very careful for the rest of his life.

Ironically, I was helping him out when I suffered the same injury about 18 months ago. It has got bad enough that I have had to close my furniture removals business and I'm currently trying to determine what sort of employment I can do in the future. Same as you, I can only sit for a little while and my shop time is limited to short bursts, especially if I drop something on the floor. My doctors tell me it's not bad enough for surgery yet and I need to wait until it degrades more. I'm not looking forward to it getting worse so I can imagine what sort of pain you're in. Good luck and I hope you have a nice quick recovery.


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## Path (Apr 29, 2015)

Al, 

Thanks so much for your encouragement. I have reduce the pain killer pills from 8 per day to 2 and some days less. I'm currently going  the pre-opt testing phase.
That will take a couple of weeks.

I also wish your a quick recovery when the time comes. You might have to press a little to get it done sooner than later.

Path


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## chucketn (Apr 29, 2015)

It's been a long time, but let me dig out the drawings and see what the parts are. If I think I can do them Justice, I'll try.
Should be doable, since I made all the missing parts for my copy.
I'll look them over tonight and let you know. 
I can sympathize with the back pain. my wife had surgery in November to fuse 5 vertebrae, and remove several bone spurs. She is just now getting around without even a cane. She is relatively pain free after many years, but is limited in movement and flexibility, even after months of physical therapy. I kid her that she has more titanium in her than my car!

Chuck


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## maverick (Apr 30, 2015)

Pat,
 I will take on the crankshaft bearing base and cap, part numbers 39 and 40. I'll ship them with my other parts.

Chris, I have some #44 drill rod for the eccentric rod, would you like me to send it? Or I could make that part also.


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## chrispare (May 1, 2015)

As it stands right now I do not have the time to take on any more that I have. Just trying to get these small beg blocks done is enough. 
So I cannot take on more. 
So if you ( maverick) would like to take on more then go for it.
That just means we need someone else that could do the eccentric and strap ( a vital piece of our little puzzle) 

Any takers?

Chris


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## Path (May 1, 2015)

Chris,

Yes, you have taken on a lot ... and I appreciate it.

Maverick .. agree with Chris, but only if you want to.

Chuck ... thanks for the offer. If it works out great, if not, that's okay too.
Glad to hear that your wife is improving. 

Just a note guys  ... I am very willing and want to make these parts. 
What I didn't want was to leave you in dark.  Give me the time I will get it done.
But you needed to know about the delay.

Thanks,

Path


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## Path (May 27, 2015)

Okay time for an update ...

I'm looking to take back item #15 (Eccentric Rod) and #17 (Eccentric Strap),
if no one else has started to build them. Reading the back posts I need to make 10 rods and 8 Straps (since Ninefinger sent 2 straps to Chris). 


The parts I'm making will go to: 
dreeves
chucketn (if you still want them)
joe d
dalem9
maverick
ninefinger (unless we plan on building the engine for him)
rhitee93 (However, I have not heard from rhitee93 as of yet. For now I 'm   assuming he needs these and the other parts. I will try to       get a hold of  him.)

myself

*Chris* do you need item  17 or can you use the 2 ninefinger sent you?

*Maverick*  are still making #39 (Crankcase Bearing Cap) and #40 (Crankcase Bearing Base)?


*Chuck* ... In your picture you posted I see that you made your Crankcase Bearings from a brass material (bronze?). What is it and is it better than the steel called for?

I hope to get started by ordering material this week.

Any other updates or comments?

Later, 

Path


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## chucketn (May 27, 2015)

Path, as far as I know, they were made from 360 brass. The engine is on display in my den, in front of the flat screen TV. Hasn't been run since I showed it off to my brother a long while ago, but it worked...
And, yes, I still want the parts if they get done.

Chuck


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## maverick (May 28, 2015)

I am making #39 (Crankcase Bearing Cap) and #40 (Crankcase Bearing Base) as well as #15 eccentric rod which is well on it's way.
 I will ship them together with the flywheels and crankshafts.


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## Path (Jun 16, 2015)

Update time ...

It was decided that I would make 10 Eccentric Straps (#17) front and back haves.
So far I have CNCed the front and back; drilled and tapped the holes.
Made a fixture to hold the pieces for machining the center hole and the recessed grooves. Now all I need are the Eccentrics so that I can match them together for a perfect fit. Drawing calls for a gap of  .001" ... not sure that I can do that but I will try. I think I'm going to see about adjusting the diameters of the Eccentrics ... that way the diameters of the straps would the same, much easier to do with CNC. Will have to see what the best way to match them.

*Chris* ... are the Eccentric in the mail?

Will have pictures later the week.

Any other updates?

Path


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## chrispare (Jun 17, 2015)

Pat I apologize for the delay they will be mailed by Friday. 
We have hade a rough month and my head has been else ware. 

I have them packed and ready so you will see them be next week 

Chris


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## Path (Jun 24, 2015)

Things are coming together...
Here is an update with a few photos.

Below are the 10 new straps that were CNCed.









After cutting them out, drilling and tapping they are assembled ... ready to be milled for the Eccentric hole.  Each one will be placed in the fixture below,  positioned carefully using 3 roll pins (looking closely you should see one of them). The two screws secure it in place. Next they will be flipped over for the last milling operation.








Here are the 10 Eccentrics and Rod Clevises that *Ninefinger* made. These parts really look good. After measuring the diameters of each one I will label it so that I can match them with one of the Straps .. so I may trim the diameter a bit the get the fit just right.







Thanks for mailing these parts to me *Chris*.

Hope to get started this weekend.


Path


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## dalem9 (Jun 27, 2015)

Wow Path looking good


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## Path (Aug 8, 2015)

*Update ...*

*dalemp* ... Thanks for the kind comment.


*Maverick* ... Are the  Crankcase Bearing Cap #39, the Crankcase Bearing Base #40 and Eccentric Rod#15 ready to ship along with the Flywheel and Crankshaft? Let me know and I will PM the addresses to you.


Okay here's my status ... Finished  .

The Straps and Eccentrics have been matched so they run very smooth together.

Ready to mail ...pictures and details coming.

Later,

Path


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## dreeves (Aug 9, 2015)

Getting excited to get the parts to complete the engine. Thanks for getting this back on track.

Dave


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## maverick (Aug 11, 2015)

I will be back in the shop next week and will start the packaging. 
Path, please PM the address list.


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## Path (Aug 11, 2015)

Here are the pictures for the straps and Eccentric build .....

Below I machined sample holes to get a nice fit for the Eccentric. Machined the hole then install the eccentric for a smooth fit, if not, modify the g-code and try again. The diameter changes were in the .0005"  the last one is just right.








Now that I have the correct g-code for a nice fit, I used this fixture to mount each strap. Each one was centered (G54) then machined. After all 10 were done on one side I flipped them over and re-centered ... that way I knew the outer holes would be concentric. 









All ten are done ...  This is the back side.







This is the set up to fine tune the eccentric ... used a mandrel and a 4 jaw chuck, adjusted until the eccentric was concentric. After each cut I would mount the strap ... if too tight ... take a little more off.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	






Here they are ready to ship ...





The screws are a little  short,  just be sure the sides match when assembling  the pieces together. You will see what I mean when you get them.

*maverick*   will PM you the addresses tomorrow.

Path


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## chucketn (Aug 12, 2015)

Is it still the plan to auction #10 for charity?

Chuck


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## chrispare (Aug 13, 2015)

Chuck as far as I am aware I am going to auction this build along with tb7(seperatly of course),Procedes goint to CYSTIC FIBROSIS.
Just waiting for the parts to come in and get it togeather and they will be up on this site.

Pat those parts make what I did with a file (little story ending badly for my mill) look a little rough, I hope that they all work.
I too seem to lost my mailing list.

Wont be long now

Chris


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## Path (Aug 19, 2015)

Okay ...   the addresses were PM to Chris and Maverick last week.

Mail notes: be sure to mail to Chris *two* of the same part, one for his engine and the other for the auction unit.

Also ... I have not received a response from rhitee93 (Brian Dougherty), I have sent Brian 2 PMs and one email (which did not come back as undeliverable). Still working on reaching Brian, will keep you posted.
I guess for now you may think about holding onto his part until contact is made.

I will start mailing my parts tomorrow. 

Later,

Path


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## dalem9 (Aug 19, 2015)

Thanks Pat


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## dreeves (Aug 20, 2015)

Looking forward to seeing the new parts. getting excited.woohoo1

Dave


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## rhitee93 (Aug 20, 2015)

Hi all!  Sorry for causing stress.  I haven't logged into the form for quite a while and didn't know things on #8 had kicked up again.

The parts are looking great Path   I've had a number of other activities creep into my life over the last year, but this may get me working on more engines


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## Path (Aug 20, 2015)

Brian,

 Glad to hear that all is well.

Do you plan on continuing your build on this engine?
If so, there are parts to be sent to you.
For me I need to make an eccentric because I goofed-up on one during the  fitting. So it will take awhile before I can make a replacement..

Welcome back.

Path


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## chrispare (Aug 24, 2015)

chucketn said:


> Is it still the plan to auction #10 for charity?
> 
> Chuck





As fas as Im aware that is the plan.
(I have also got TB7 to auction, I finally have it assembled)

Any suggestions on how where to auction it?
ebayb or here on this site.

chris


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## chucketn (Aug 24, 2015)

Got the eccentric set and clevis today. Had forgot they were coming. Very nice, Pat. 

Anybody find 2-56 SHSC at a reasonable price? My local Fastenal wants upwards of $0.25 each, or upwards of $25.00 per box of 100. 

Chuck


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## dreeves (Aug 24, 2015)

Pat, got my parts today as well.  Looks great. Chuck how many do you need I have good amount of them

Dave


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## chucketn (Aug 25, 2015)

Thanks for the offer, Dave. I only need the 2 for the new parts, I'll try my local Fastenal, if they will sell just 2, 50 cents won't break me. I can't see buying a box of 100, I don't usually make anything that small.
If they won't do 2, I'll take you up on your kind offer.

Chuck


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## dalem9 (Aug 25, 2015)

Pat got my parts today Very nice work ! Thank you so very much .


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## rhitee93 (Aug 26, 2015)

Pat,

If I had the parts, I would finish assembling the engine.  However, please feel free to use the part slated for me to finish yours first.  I have plenty of things keeping me busy these days.  I'm happy to wait until you get around to making another part some day.

best...
-Brian


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## joe d (Aug 26, 2015)

Pat

My parts arrived today I'll echo every one else, very nice work!

Thanks,  Joe


----------



## maverick (Aug 26, 2015)

Pat, The parts look great just like everyone says. I did notice a problem with my parts however. The eccentric rod is too tight a fit in your parts. All I had to check size with was a 2-56 nut which worked ok. I'm going to make a tapped
gauge and rework the rods. All of the rest of the parts are finished. 

Chuck, What length of screw do you need, I've got dozens of several lengths
that were surplus to my last employer. I'm sure there are 3/16, 1/4 and 1/2
plus smaller quantities of other lengths. I'd be happy to send some to whoever needs them.

Mike


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## chucketn (Aug 26, 2015)

Mike, I need 2 ea. 2x56 setscrews about 1/8" long. 3/16" length might fit, but I don't have the parts in font of me to check.

Chuck


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## chrispare (Aug 26, 2015)

Who was doing the beam links and parallel links. Sheet 17?
Chris


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## chucketn (Aug 26, 2015)

I can't remember that far back...
Shoot!, I don't remember what parts I made , now...

Chuck


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## Path (Aug 26, 2015)

chrispare said:


> Who was doing the beam links and parallel links. Sheet 17?
> Chris




Chris,


Page 17 is an assembly page.
Part details are on page 15 (most of the little ones).
Item 30-35 are on page 15 and were assigned to rhitee93, which I believe 
have been sent out.  I think I have mine anyway.* Just checked  ... I do have them.*

Except the Cylinder Rod End Bushing, which we have to make ourselves.

* Edit* ... rhitee93 also had item #36 page 18, Steam chest cover.* (I also have this)*


Path


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## Path (Aug 26, 2015)

Brian,

I was just looking at all your parts ... really look nice. 
Very shiny ... did you put them in a tumble?
If so, what was the model and how long did they tumble?

Thanks,

Pat


----------



## Path (Aug 26, 2015)

chucketn said:


> I can't remember that far back...
> Shoot!, I don't remember what parts I made , now...
> 
> Chuck




Chuck ...

My paper work says you were assigned page 7,
items 8,9,10, and 11 which I have. 

I think you also posted your finished model ...running.
But some time ago it was "removed" if so would you mind re-posting?  

Path


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## chrispare (Aug 27, 2015)

Yup found my missing pieces. The tool box troll slipped them down to the bottom, along with a few other parts too  

Pat you do nice work, pieces look good. 

Chris


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## chucketn (Aug 27, 2015)

Path said:


> Chuck ...
> 
> My paper work says you were assigned page 7,
> items 8,9,10, and 11 which I have.
> ...


 
I can't find those pics, but I will take some today and repost. I think I had a video of it running, too.  IIRC, I had a problem with timing, but finally got it running.

Chuck


----------



## chucketn (Aug 27, 2015)

Found the pics, and the video. But the video won't load. Here's the pics, I put the vid on photobucket if interested.

Chuck


----------



## rhitee93 (Aug 27, 2015)

Path said:


> Brian,
> 
> I was just looking at all your parts ... really look nice.
> Very shiny ... did you put them in a tumble?
> ...



Ha, I don't remember what I did, but it probably ran them through a tumbler.  Most likely with walnut shells in an old rock tumbler I got as a kid that I still use for stuff like this.  Otherwise it would have been my Lyman brass tumbler with corncob media.

The links were stainless steel, so they polished up well.


----------



## maverick (Sep 1, 2015)

I've ordered a new button die that should clear up the thread fit issue.
Here are the caps and rods.


----------



## joe d (Sep 1, 2015)

Chris:

The bearings & caps showed up in the mail today.  Looking good
Buddy, thanks!

Joe


----------



## Path (Sep 4, 2015)

Chris ...
Received my parts too ... nice.

Pat


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## dreeves (Sep 4, 2015)

You guys are killing me. I'm on vacation and can't get my new parts. Lol I'm sure they look good. Can't wait to see them

Dave


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## chucketn (Sep 5, 2015)

I'm broken hearted... Received an empty envelope from Chris today! Envelope had a 1 1/2" tear in the center and nothing inside!:rant:

Chuck


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## chucketn (Sep 7, 2015)

Chris, what was supposed to be in the envelope?

Chuck


----------



## chrispare (Sep 8, 2015)

Hi chuck, it was suppose to be the beam bearings. 
I did not think that there would be a problem with the envelopes. But I guess lesson learned. 
Chris


----------



## maverick (Sep 8, 2015)

Chris,
Received the beam bearings. Envelope was kind of torn up but parts remained inside.
My parts are being packed up for shipping.


----------



## dalem9 (Sep 18, 2015)

Maverick got my parts today very very nice ,Thanks also for the extra's


----------



## ramhobbies (Sep 25, 2015)

How about George Britnell's inline 4 cyl.

ramhobbies


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## Path (Oct 1, 2015)

Maverick,

Will you be mailing additional parts out soon?
Sure would like to start assembling.

Anyone else received parts from Maverick?

Thanks,

Path


----------



## maverick (Oct 1, 2015)

Pat, more going out today.
Trying to figure out the USPS online customs form to Canada
to get a 20 percent savings.


----------



## Path (Oct 3, 2015)

Maverick ....

Got my parts today!th_wav And what nice parts they are ... very nice.

Also thanks for the scrap material ... although not really scrap. I will find a use.

Well, I guess it's time to get busy and start assembling.

I will post pictures later.

Thanks again,

Path


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## chucketn (Oct 5, 2015)

Maverick, Got my parts today. Beautiful! Just beautiful! Thank you so much for the extras as well!

Chuck


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## chrispare (Nov 11, 2015)

Has anyone heard from maverick, 
Just wondering if all the parts have got out, ( I haven't recieved anything as of yet)
Tried pm but nothing back yet. 

Just wondering 
Chris


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## dalem9 (Dec 2, 2015)

Well here is my engine. Still a few things to do yet ,but it is running .


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## Path (Dec 2, 2015)

*dalem9,*

Nice  . Any issues putting it together?
What do you have left to do?

Thanks for posting, it looks great!Thm:

*Maverick  stickpoke where are you?

*Path


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## dalem9 (Dec 3, 2015)

Yes there was  but nothing to bad .Had to make a few parts that were not found on the plans . But all in all was pretty good . Have to redo a couple parts but nothing to serious . Have to make a way to hook the air line to it . It seems to run fairly  well . Dale


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## dreeves (Dec 19, 2015)

I just got a few parts remade and got her running tonight.  Thanks for everyone who worked on this build. Special thanks for the guys who stepped in and did extra parts 

Dave

https://youtu.be/a4tQYRRAWwc


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## chrispare (Jan 7, 2016)

Just wondering if anyone has heard from mavrick yet. 
Has everyone received all their parts?

Chris


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## joe d (Jan 12, 2016)

Maverick's parts showed up in the mail yesterday, looking fine!
(And thanks for the "extras" Mike)

Nothing left to do now except build the thing....

Cheers, Joe


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## maverick (Mar 22, 2016)

I believe all of my parts have been sent out. Chris, I hope you have yours by now.


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## chrispare (Mar 31, 2016)

Yes I have thank you very much for the extras. 
I have almost got it assembled ( your parts work good) just a few bits to make and then get it working, and auctioned.


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## chucketn (Dec 18, 2016)

Any status update on this build? Have all the parts been distributed? How about the 10th copy? Has it been finished? Auctioned?

Chuck


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## chrispare (Dec 19, 2016)

As far as I know all parts are done. 
I have built the auction one and in the slow process of getting it smoothly running. 
I was thing of starting the auction just after Xmas. 
I wanted to get get it running smooth for a photo video then auction. 
I do apologies for taking so long, between working and a sick young one I havnt had much hobbie time. Hoping to change that

Chris

P.s I'm always open to ideas/opinions so don't be shy


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