# Brian builds a Corliss



## Brian Rupnow (Feb 19, 2022)

We're half-way thru February and I need to build something. The Corliss steam engine is a very interesting design, and it seems that there are two designs available on the net. One is as per the original full size Corliss engine, with two auxiliary "dashpot" cylinders to aid in closing (or maybe opening) the intake valves. The intake valve mechanisms have a complex design, incorporating a  two piece rotationally slotted mechanism which works with these "dashpot" cylinders.---Then there is the simplified version, which does not have the dashpot cylinders nor the complex mechanism on the intake valve apparatus. Instead, it has two adjustable links driving the intake valving and two adjustable links driving the exhaust valve mechanism. I will be building the second simplified version. A gentleman was kind enough to send me a 3D assembly of the second type of Corliss engine and I will be revising the design to suit my own fancy. This is the engine as it was sent to me. The first obvious change I see is that all 4 of the bearings for the valve shafts are using 1/16" diameter hex head bolts. These will be upgraded to #4 socket head capscrews. I like the look of socket head capscrews better, and I seriously doubt that I could drill and tap sixteen 1/16" diameter threaded holes without breaking off the tap. Stay tuned---it should be an interesting journey.---Brian


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## Ghosty (Feb 19, 2022)

Another on I will be watching, Thanks Brian.
Cheers
Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 19, 2022)

I have built quite a few steam engines, but they all had the more conventional slide valve on the cylinder. This one will be something totally new for me. When I import a model that was made in some other software than mine, every individual component has to be fixed in place, as none of the mates that position the parts in relationship to one and other get imported. And since this is something totally new to me and was never built by the man who sent me the design, I have to basically recreate the entire engine from parts to which I add all of the mates. This lets me rotate the flywheel and see the piston move thru the correct stroke to make sure that everything is correctly positioned. As I recreate the parts, I will also make any changes I want as I model them.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 19, 2022)

At this point in time I have opened a lot of the individual components and saved them into a new assembly file, adding proper "mates" as the parts were added. This shows me that as the flywheel and crankshaft rotate thru 360 degrees that the piston will travel correctly and remain centered in the cylinder. That is a GOOD thing. Tomorrow I will start changing the things I want to change, and add them into the assembly as I build it.


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## Caber (Feb 20, 2022)

Brian. Have you seen the Modelenginemaker.Com Corliss design and drawings? It is a good design and has been built a few times, it may be at least a help in figuring out bits of your design. There are also the Julius der Wall drawings at Agnes.... 1/16 Scale Pollit & Wigzell Tandem Compound Condensing Engine.
I am thinking about building a Corliss but would like to do the Uk version which uses two eccentrics one driving the inlets the other the exhausts but I am not sure I am up to the design challenges!


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 20, 2022)

From what I gather, this design is the one designed on MEM.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 20, 2022)

The flywheel shown on the original model is 7 1/4" diameter. The largest piece of pipe I have is only 6" diameter. Before I do any actual "building" I will call my steel suppliers tomorrow and see if anyone has a short length of larger diameter pipe. I don't care for the 2" thick baseplate on this existing model, but I have to decide on the flywheel diameter before I start changing anything.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 20, 2022)

The cylinder block is 2 1/8" square. I have a chunk of round aluminum here that is 3 1/2" diameter x 3" long, which would allow me to cut a 2 1/8" square out of it. I don't want to make the cylinder from aluminum because it has a high coefficient of friction, but I also have some 1 1/2" diameter cast iron from which I can make a thin walled sleeve and epoxy it into place as a liner. I have to look thru all the build threads on this. I seem to recall reading about someone who did the same thing.


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## Steamchick (Feb 20, 2022)

Hi Brian. Thanks for starting a new project!
I suggest the cast iron sleeve is preset into the aluminium before boring. A drop of loctite makes good lubrication while fitting and will be a reet sod to dismantle. And cylinder ends should prevent the liner from moving anyway. Don't worry bout differential expansion, as the liner will be hot (steam) while the aluminium will be cooler.
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 20, 2022)

Probably I will go with a 1/2" thick baseplate supported by four legs (which I haven't shown yet). This will let me keep most of the mechanical components the same as originally designed on the MEM website.


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## Charles Lamont (Feb 20, 2022)

Just for info, the complicated arrangement that allows variable and rapid closure of the inlet valves, is called 'trip gear'.
The valve is (usually) closed by a spring, and the dashpot arrests the motion so that the valve does not slam against the stop.

Some videos showing different configurations in operation:


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## Charles Lamont (Feb 20, 2022)

Another thought, Brian: you probably don't want to run the Corliss valves in an aluminium cylinder block either. Lining the valves, and the intersections between the liners, would be a horrible proposition. May I recommend you to invest in a chunk of continuously cast square iron bar? Lovely stuff.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 20, 2022)

Yes Charles, I agree. I will have to call my suppliers Tuesday and see what a proper piece of iron would cost.


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## Richard Hed (Feb 20, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Yes Charles, I agree. I will have to call my suppliers Tuesday and see what a proper piece of iron would cost.


The Improved Greene is like a Corliss but has a different mechanism for the exhaust valves.  I would like to find plans for it, but cannot find any.  I have seen a coulple builds but that is all.


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## ShopShoe (Feb 21, 2022)

Brian,

I'm ready to watch this one. I like the way you keep adding skills and adding new projects that stress your abilities. 

FYI, Perhaps you could get the stock for the flywheel rim from a large industrial caster. Some of the vendors for those even have downloadable CAD files of their products.

--ShopShoe


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 21, 2022)

Good idea Shopshoe--We are in the middle of a long weekend here (family day) so all of my material sources are closed. Thank you for the idea. ---Brian


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## minh-thanh (Feb 21, 2022)

Hi Brian !

Let's slow down !!
     You design and build engines so fast and that shocks me ...


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 21, 2022)

minh-thanh--One thing about building such a popular engine---There are lots of good build threads to study from other people who have built this engine before me. I won't be aiming for speed on this build, but I know that once I get going it is hard for me to slow down.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 21, 2022)

I have went thru all of the solid models and mated them correctly, and I must say, they are done very good. I haven't found any errors and everything fits where it should. I don't think I'm going to bother with the governor, and I will stick as closely as I can to what has already been done. Some of the smaller connecting pins may be different, but as for all the large components, I see no reason to change them.


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## Richard Hed (Feb 21, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I have went thru all of the solid models and mated them correctly, and I must say, they are done very good. I haven't found any errors and everything fits where it should. I don't think I'm going to bother with the governor, and I will stick as closely as I can to what has already been done. Some of the smaller connecting pins may be different, but as for all the large components, I see no reason to change them.


On the Ray/Coles Corliss, the governor is the most complicated part with lots of pikky little work.  The next most difficult is not so bad at all:  the system of the steam valves which is pretty picky also.  The rest is pretty straight forward.  One thing I likes about the valves is that you can time them separately with a locked lever.  The valves themselves, all four, are somewhat picky as you must get the angles for the slots/holes nice and precise.  The steam throttle has some nasty threading but otherwise OK.  I'm still wondering about that "Improved Greene" engine.  It looks like a better engine than a Corliss to me.


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## Jasonb (Feb 21, 2022)

Richard Hed said:


> The Improved Greene is like a Corliss but has a different mechanism for the exhaust valves.  I would like to find plans for it, but cannot find any.  I have seen a coulple builds but that is all.



Richard, read the last few posts where Jeff said he can supply the plans (pdf)  for the engine over on MEM


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## Richard Hed (Feb 21, 2022)

Jasonb said:


> Richard, read the last few posts where Jeff said he can supply the plans (pdf)  for the engine over on MEM


Jason, I found this: Diese Seite enthält ein paar Bauberichte von Modellen
but not anything Jeff posted about this.  Do you know the exact link?  I am very interested in this.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 22, 2022)

Now it's time for me to take on opinion pole!!---The cylinder for this critter is 2 1/8" square x 2 1/2" long. I have a piece of aluminum here that is bought and paid for, but as I understand things, aluminum has a high coefficient of friction, which I'd like to avoid. Mild steel would work all right, because I will be running on compressed air, not steam. Only thing is, there are a ton of #4-40 and #5-40 tapped holes in this thing, and a very real chance of breaking a tap. I find that cast iron is easier to tap, but a phone call to my metal supplier this morning tells me it will cost $30 for a piece of 3" diameter cast iron x 3" long. What material do you recommend that I use?


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## Richard Hed (Feb 22, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Now it's time for me to take on opinion pole!!---The cylinder for this critter is 2 1/8" square x 2 1/2" long. I have a piece of aluminum here that is bought and paid for, but as I understand things, aluminum has a high coefficient of friction, which I'd like to avoid. Mild steel would work all right, because I will be running on compressed air, not steam. Only thing is, there are a ton of #4-40 and #5-40 tapped holes in this thing, and a very real chance of breaking a tap. I find that cast iron is easier to tap, but a phone call to my metal supplier this morning tells me it will cost $30 for a piece of 3" diameter cast iron x 3" long. What material do you recommend that I use?


30$ for 3" diam by 3" long is not a terrible price.  How long do you need total?  And what do you mean by 2-1/8?  is the the diameter or the total area of the piston?  YOu say "square'  do you mean diameter?


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## Jasonb (Feb 22, 2022)

Richard, why not look at the images on the first page of the thread you will see that the cylinder is a six sided block 2.125 x 2.125 x 2,5 long. Brian will just be able to get this out of a 3" diameter round bar which is quite a common way to do it as round bar is easier to obtain.

regarding the Greene, read the replies just after your post here Greene Automatic Cutoff Steam Engine


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 22, 2022)

Sing Hallelujah baby---we got the first part made!!! It still needs a bit of fettling and a few holes, but I'm off to see a man about a flywheel.


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## Richard Hed (Feb 22, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Sing Hallelujah baby---we got the first part made!!! It still needs a bit of fettling and a few holes, but I'm off to see a man about a flywheel.


Halleluah Babee


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 22, 2022)

I drove across town to my metal supplier and gave up $55 of the Rupnow Fortune for material. The flywheel as it sets is 7" o.d. x 3/8" wall thickness, which is close enough for me. The 6" x 1/2" aluminum is going to be the main baseplate, the 2" round cold rolled is going to become the cross-head guide, and the rest of the stuff is to make "feet" that holds the cylinder up.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 22, 2022)

I have changed the solid model to show the piece of 7" outside diameter pipe as a flywheel rim. I'm not going to show all of the notches around the flywheel rim, as they serve no purpose here and are not needed. I'm not 100% sure how to attach the spokes to the outer rim, but right now I'm thinking that if I can hold everything concentric I may make the spokes 0.100" too short and fill up the ends at the flywheel rim with tig weld. This will serve to hold the spokes in place and if I overfill the holes and then take a clean up pass on the outside diameter it should look okay.


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## Richard Hed (Feb 22, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I have changed the solid model to show the piece of 7" outside diameter pipe as a flywheel rim. I'm not going to show all of the notches around the flywheel rim, as they serve no purpose here and are not needed. I'm not 100% sure how to attach the spokes to the outer rim, but right now I'm thinking that if I can hold everything concentric I may make the spokes 0.100" too short and fill up the ends at the flywheel rim with tig weld. This will serve to hold the spokes in place and if I overfill the holes and then take a clean up pass on the outside diameter it should look okay.


If your spokes are the same size as the hole, you can make them to the right size then weld thim in place doing a clea up pass on the welds.  just use careful cutting on welds--not necessarily a goo idea


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## CFLBob (Feb 22, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I'm not going to show all of the notches around the flywheel rim, as they serve no purpose here and are not needed.



I was wondering what those notches or teeth were for.  I looked at the videos you posted yesterday (?) and couldn't see any reason for them, either.


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## Pappyd (Feb 22, 2022)

CFLBob said:


> I was wondering what those notches or teeth were for.  I looked at the videos you posted yesterday (?) and couldn't see any reason for them, either.


The notches on the outer edge of the flywheel are for "barring" the engine which is manually rotating the flywheel to set the valve timing for starting.  They used large crowbars and later used smaller engines for barring.


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## lathe nut (Feb 22, 2022)

Brian, this will be an exciting build for me to see, I run one when I was a little fellow, I was told keep the boiler full and all the oil drips full, it was installed in 1895 at an Irrigation company in south Louisiana that pumped water for the Bayou raising it 26 feet to the irrigation canal that went for four miles to another crude oil engine that raised the water 15 feet, I would spend a lot time there with the old men and they taught me a lot, so I probably 13 running the 11-7 shift, I thought I was good till one night it started pounding like the floor was going to break, went around the valve side and on to the square bushing had a worn edge and that dashpot would drip the valve early, I stood there for four hours lifting it so it could close, little kid did not know where others were to replace, guess I did not learn a lot after all, the old fellow came to take my place at 7 AM and stat on a bucket and rolled his cigarette, started smoking, not looking to the kid, I let that valve drop then he coming running, go a fresh on screwed it and run perfect, the flywheel was in two halves, Hughe nuts on the shaft and the outer ring had several nuts on the inside, I had one rope that was three inch diameter it was continues from one pulley to the other, sure I figure it out even learned how to weave rope, then in 1974 big boss steam out in went a  Wakesha, with two jack stands, would not pump as slow nor as fast, we were stuck it, the original was fired by wood, that is all the did cut and split wood for the boilers, they worked year around, then they discovered oil in 1901, switch to burring crude oil then later switch it to natural gas, that got the boiler up quick, I will try to get some photos together, I would love purchase some plans of that, that would bring back a lot of fine remembering , sill love the smell of steam and oil, would you consider selling me a print


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## Charles Lamont (Feb 23, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> What material do you recommend that I use?


I have already voted.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 23, 2022)

Today I made my machines pay for themselves. Started this morning at 9:30 and just finished up at 4:45. I'm very pleased with things so far.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 23, 2022)

Lathe Nut--When I am finished and the engine runs, then yes, I will sell a complete set of my drawings for $25 Canadian funds. You must realize though, you are not buying an original design. You will be buying my drawings of my interpretation of someone else's design.


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## alanganes (Feb 23, 2022)

Charles Lamont said:


> Just for info, the complicated arrangement that allows variable and rapid closure of the inlet valves, is called 'trip gear'.
> The valve is (usually) closed by a spring, and the dashpot arrests the motion so that the valve does not slam against the stop.
> 
> Some videos showing different configurations in operation:



This is an interesting technical demo of the Corliss valve gear from the New England Wireless and Steam Museum:



If you look around their youtube channel or website site, you will find a number of other videos about that particular engine, which is believed to be the only original Corliss company Corliss engine that is still able to run under steam power. They fire it up for demos at least once per year. I have been there for that, it's an impressive thing to see.


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## lathe nut (Feb 23, 2022)

alanganes said:


> This is an interesting technical demo of the Corliss valve gear from the New England Wireless and Steam Museum:
> 
> 
> 
> If you look around their youtube channel or website site, you will find a number of other videos about that particular engine, which is believed to be the only original Corliss company Corliss engine that is still able to run under steam power. They fire it up for demos at least once per year. I have been there for that, it's an impressive thing to see.


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## lathe nut (Feb 23, 2022)

Brian, yes, I do understand that, and I have not seen any drawing of one but guess I was not looking with understanding, would like your instead, thanks, will follow along and keep quiet, thanks again, Joe


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## Steamchick (Feb 24, 2022)

Hi Brian: Post #23: I reckon you should invest in a lump of good quality cast iron. Your engines will outlast you, as I have an engine made by apprentices in the 1930s, at the local college. My Great Grandfather's Engineering works had a coal truck (scale model ) that they used for Sales purposes in the 1880s - accurate and working - 4 3/4" gauge - that I inherited, but had to let go in the 1970s - when it was about 90 years old... Most of the best models have found a home with "curators" decades after the makers have past. A testament to the quality of their their maker's workmanship and expertise. So the cast iron will be a good investment.
On that note,
Enjoy the kids' inheritance now!! 
K2


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## almega (Feb 24, 2022)

I am curious and would like some direction to another thread if appropriate so as not to detract from this one. When making a flywheel such as is intended in this build, with separate parts, axle, spokes and rim, how is that all assembled to maintain concentricity and balance?


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## Steamchick (Feb 24, 2022)

Good question.... I can only guess, never having done it.... that it is "the wheel builder's art" (skill). How about using a jig? With a shaft in the centre, and calipers/gauge from the centre to bring the rim to concentricity? Or use spacers all exactly the same length, equal to the hub-rim gap? I too want to know how.... as there must be a simple method?
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 24, 2022)

Today I hope to work on my own flywheel. I will take pictures as I progress.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 24, 2022)

Today was flywheel day. The man where I buy my material must have had a short end of tubing he wanted to get rid of. I asked for it to be 1 3/4" long, but when I got to looking at it a bit closer, he gave me a piece 2 1/2" long.--and the finished dimension is 1 1/2" long.
Seven inches diameter seems to be the largest piece I can hold with my reverse chuck jaws, and even that was a very close thing. All three jaws were engaged, but not by very darned much. I proceeded to machine 1/2" off both ends, and then turned the inner diameter steps as required. On the last pass I let the magic smoke out of the switch, and it looks like my lathe gets another truck ride to Toronto. Damn, Damn, Damn!!!


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## Gordon (Feb 24, 2022)

Don't you have some electrical guru near by who can look at it before you try to snake it through your office again. I think that last time it was just some minor issue. You are going to pay someone in any case and someone may be able to take a look at it on the way home at night. Maybe a couple of six packs to someone would solve the problem.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 24, 2022)

On the last pass, smoke began coming out around the on/off switch and the motor cut in and out and I hit the e-stop button immediately. Let it cool off for an hour, hit the start button and it started right up, ran for 10 seconds, then died. Took the cover plate off, looked down inside, and was confronted by an amazing array of wires and one or two which had the ends burned off. I can wire a house, I can wire a car, but I have neither the test equipment nor the technical knowledge to start messing about in the electrical guts of my lathe. The last time I took it to Toronto, I made some fairly specialized hoisting equipment to help me lift and maneuver the lathe. I kept that equipment together for the "next time"  I needed it. This gives me something to do tomorrow.


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## Steamchick (Feb 25, 2022)

Hi Brian, Sorry to hear the smoke escaped from the electrics... but being "burnt wires" I guess it may not be too expensive to fix? I wish I was closer to come and help...
The dealer where I bought my lathe a decade ago, has an engineer I can ring anytime for free advice. So far he has explained how to fix my lathe for 2 separate faults. - For the price of a phone call. 
My guess, is that if you can find a guru for your lathe, you will be able to simply test a couple of things and re-fix the damaged wires... unless it is more major.
When my speed control lost all the smoke, I took that and the motor to my "local" engineer (found on-line) who was incredibly helpful. Repaired the electronics, made a new brush holder for the motor and has since given me buckets of advice over other things that needed re-adjusting/replacing after my smoke-escaping event (BIG blue flashes and fuses blowing for me!!). Shifting the motor and electronics was way easier than a couple of hundredweight of lathe!
So far, my dumb fingers and thumbs have removed replaced the motor, On-Off/Em.stop buttons, Variable speed board, power supply smoothing choke, fuse holder, added a cooling fan for the motor (increases draught at low motor speed when it's fan is too slow), and added a louvre to ventilate the electronic "chamber". - just DISCONNECT THE MAINS SAFELY - before removing any covers/parts.
Can you show us photos of the area where the smoke leaked out? Maybe someone can advise what may have lost the smoke?
Enjoy?
K2


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## almega (Feb 25, 2022)

To paraphrase: Grant me the skills to fix what I am comfortable fixing, the serenity to let an expert fix what I am not comfortable fixing and the wisdom to know the difference. There are things we all "might' be able to fix or do but it is often wiser to pay a few bucks to let an expert do the job when not comfortable. I hope whichever course you take you are able to get back up and running soon because I am anxious to see how you approach that flywheel assembly.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 25, 2022)

I have a number of pieces to machine that don't require a lathe to finish them. There is no sense loading my lathe onto my truck today (which is a fairly major enterprise) because  the place in Toronto that will fix it will be closed over the weekend.


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## GWRdriver (Feb 25, 2022)

Almega & Steamchick,
I've written a description of one way to do it . . . see Building Up a Flywheel - One Way to Do It



almega said:


> I am curious and would like some direction to another thread if appropriate so as not to detract from this one. When making a flywheel such as is intended in this build, with separate parts, axle, spokes and rim, how is that all assembled to maintain concentricity and balance?


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## almega (Feb 25, 2022)

Thanks GWRdriver. Do you do anything to secure the spokes into the hub other than the fit of the rim?


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 25, 2022)

Okay. Not a bad day.--Worked 6 hours, made five parts. Not horribly difficult parts, but a lot of set up and a lot of manual milling. I still have two or three days work before I need the lathe, so it's working out all right.


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## almega (Feb 25, 2022)

Nice looking "structural looking" components.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 26, 2022)

Today's topic is "How one old man moves his lathe". You can see some new timber in the picture. One vertical 2 x 6 behind the lathe, one vertical 2 x 6 in front of the mill, and two 2 x 4 r's bolted to them parallel to the floor. A pair of bed angles bolted to the top of the 2 x 4s and a rolling dolly made up from some old bearings and scrap plate. A threaded rod passes down thru the moveable dolly and connects to a plate setting below the lathe bed. The lathe is unbolted from the cabinets that support it and as the nut on the top of the threaded rod is tightened, the lathe gets lifted vertically about 2".


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 26, 2022)

After the lathe is lifted 2", the wheeled cart is pushed in beside the lathe and with much groaning and grunting the moveable dolly is pulled over about 18" and the lathe comes with it and is lowered onto the wheeled cart. Then the top nut on the threaded rod is loosened and the lathe sets down onto the cart. Lathe is clamped with c-clamps to the cart, and pushed out the door into my office. It will set in my office until Monday, then be loaded into my pickup truck with my engine hoist and carried away to Toronto.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 26, 2022)

And to all of you who suggested that I fix the problem myself----Do you really think I would go thru this if there was a remote chance that I might be able to fix the electrics on my lathe? In one of my previous lives I tried to fix something like this that I didn't really understand---and it didn't work---and finally when I took it to the people who really did know what they were doing, I was told that my "fixing things" burned out various components and was going to cost twice as much to replace all the crap that my "fix" caused. Old I am--Stupid I'm not!!!


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## Ghosty (Feb 26, 2022)

Brian, 
You fix what you can, and you send out to get fixed what you can't. I always do the same. Good thing about it, you get to give the back of the lathe a good clean down.
Cheers
Andrew


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## johwen (Feb 27, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Today was flywheel day. The man where I buy my material must have had a short end of tubing he wanted to get rid of. I asked for it to be 1 3/4" long, but when I got to looking at it a bit closer, he gave me a piece 2 1/2" long.--and the finished dimension is 1 1/2" long.
> Seven inches diameter seems to be the largest piece I can hold with my reverse chuck jaws, and even that was a very close thing. All three jaws were engaged, but not by very darned much. I proceeded to machine 1/2" off both ends, and then turned the inner diameter steps as required. On the last pass I let the magic smoke out of the switch, and it looks like my lathe gets another truck ride to Toronto. Damn, Damn, Damn!!!


Hi Brian, Looking at your lathe I have exactly the same machine from China except mine has a brand name of "WEISS" I had about 2 years ago an electric problem where my lathe would only turn very slow. Like you looked at the circuit boards all looked good. took the motor to a motor specialist and first he said it was OK he skimmed the commutator and free running on the bench seemed to run at top speed. On installation same problem. photo graphed the wiring to the circuit boards and then order two and fitted same still the problem. Motor guy said no problem after a second check with the motor but said he could rewind same for $350. I checked the price of a new motor and purchase one for $230 after fitting problem solved. The original motor winding on one pole was shorted out to the armature. core wings badly burned. Best thing you can do is what you have planned. johwen.


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## Steamchick (Feb 27, 2022)

Wow! Brian, you continue to amaze me with the stuff you do.
Just take care of yourself in the process, as we want many more threads from you.
Having dislocated my pelvis when installing my miller, and had a couple of months of disability and pain, and I have also lost a few 3-month spells in the past 40-odd years with slipped discs and other back problems, I stress caution from bad experience that I don't want you to experience! Remember, it isn't always the weight lifted that damages the body, but the inertia being moved.
That said, I damaged my back moving a welder (pushing it sideways into a corner), another time trying to putt on a sock that was too small, and another time reaching for a document across 2 desks at work! The pelvis dislocated when I was lifting 50 lbs or so onto the top of the mill, and needed another inch of reach...  the muscles worked, but had to stretch a tendon and dislocate the pelvic girdle to lift the spine above the hip-point... or so the physical terrorist explained! My body wasn't made tall enough... obviously because that was the length of bone in the odd-bin of bones when I was made...
I'll look forward to hearing of the successful (safe) completion of this lathe saga.
K2


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## mikelkie (Feb 27, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> On the last pass, smoke began coming out around the on/off switch and the motor cut in and out and I hit the e-stop button immediately. Let it cool off for an hour, hit the start button and it started right up, ran for 10 seconds, then died. Took the cover plate off, looked down inside, and was confronted by an amazing array of wires and one or two which had the ends burned off. I can wire a house, I can wire a car, but I have neither the test equipment nor the technical knowledge to start messing about in the electrical guts of my lathe. The last time I took it to Toronto, I made some fairly specialized hoisting equipment to help me lift and maneuver the lathe. I kept that equipment together for the "next time"  I needed it. This gives me something to do tomorrow.


I know you can't wait till August when i'll be visiting my kids in Toronto, will be glad to help out. I happened to be in machine repair business. Hope you come right soon. Regards mike


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 27, 2022)

It's in the truck. I'm ready to go to Toronto. No spills, no thrills, no mishaps. Hope we get a sunny day tomorrow.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 27, 2022)

I'm not sure I've ever built anything with so many bolts in it!! The blue bolt heads are #4 which are 0.110" diameter and the redish ones are #5 which are 0.125" diameter. I'm currently looking for a source for #5 shoulder bolts for the linkage ends but haven't found them yet. I did manage to find some 3mm shoulder bolts and will use them if I have to.


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## OrangeAlpine (Feb 28, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> And to all of you who suggested that I fix the problem myself----Do you really think I would go thru this if there was a remote chance that I might be able to fix the electrics on my lathe? In one of my previous lives I tried to fix something like this that I didn't really understand---and it didn't work---and finally when I took it to the people who really did know what they were doing, I was told that my "fixing things" burned out various components and was going to cost twice as much to replace all the crap that my "fix" caused. Old I am--Stupid I'm not!!!


Yes!  Repair is much more than replacing a wire that has let the smoke escape.  
Bill


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## Shopgeezer (Feb 28, 2022)

Reading this thread makes me wonder if there is a price to pay for variable speed control on a lathe. Running a VFD and putting a motor under load at varying speeds must introduce electrical stress into a control system. Electric motors usually run at a constant rated speed. Allowing a motor to do this and varying output speed with gears or belts is probably better. But I would dearly love to have variable speed on my lathe. Still I look longingly at the CX 707. Brian maybe you should trade for one. 









						LATHE 12IN. X 36IN. 2HP GEAR HEAD CRAFTEX CX CX707
					

Busy Bee Tools is Canada's largest Woodworking & Metalworking retailer. Find power tools, woodworking tools & metalworking tools at factory direct prices.




					www.busybeetools.com


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 28, 2022)

Shopgeezer--that is a gear head lathe you are referencing. Great for cutting threads, but very noisy. Yes, I wish I could buy a new lathe every four or five years, but it only gets used for a hobby, it doesn't generate income.----Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 28, 2022)

I ordered the shoulder bolts that I need from McMaster Carr thru my friend who runs a local design/build shop this morning. I took the lathe to Toronto and dropped it off at Busy Bee to be repaired. They will fix it and ship it up to their store outlet in Barrie free of charge and I will pick it up there. I have enough parts to make that aren't lathe dependent to keep me occupied in the meanwhile.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 28, 2022)

I managed to get some design time in this afternoon. I modelled the 1/8" and the 3/16" shoulder bolts that I have ordered from McMaster-Carr and added them to the assembly. The 3/16" one is right in the middle of the center pivot and can be used as purchased.  The 8 purple colored ones are used at both ends of the green links, and unfortunately the heads have to be turned from 1/4" diameter down to 3/16" diameter to match the size of the green link ends. I have also modified the small end of the red pivot arms to be 3/16" diameter so that everything matches.


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## Steamchick (Mar 1, 2022)

Good stuff Brian! I have had to read up on Corliss valves - attached video links from contributors above have been very instructive. 
I look forward to your CAD pictures of the valves, etc.
Plenty of work while the lathe is in the machine hospital.
K2


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## SteamChEng (Mar 1, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I managed to get some design time in this afternoon. I modelled the 1/8" and the 3/16" shoulder bolts that I have ordered from McMaster-Carr and added them to the assembly. The 3/16" one is right in the middle of the center pivot and can be used as purchased.  The 8 purple colored ones are used at both ends of the green links, and unfortunately the heads have to be turned from 1/4" diameter down to 3/16" diameter to match the size of the green link ends. I have also modified the small end of the red pivot arms to be 3/16" diameter so that everything matches.



Brian, did you know you can download the SolidWorks CAD models of al most everything they sell directly from McMaster?  I do that occasionally when I am working on something and need to have the mundane whatchamacallit I bought from McMaster in my model.

I love watching these threads where you are building things and working on shop equipment.  Sharing all that stuff makes us all smarter.  I loved your thread on making cast iron rings.  Thanks!


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 1, 2022)

SteamCHEng--I do know that, but it's just faster for me to click on their 2D pdf and model it myself than to download the 3D image.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 1, 2022)

In keeping within my "part a day" mantra, I have just finished the pillow block bearings for my Corliss engine. I had to dig around in my brass drawer to find two pieces large enough to make bearings from, and now that I see them together, I'm pretty sure I have one made from brass and one made from bronze. That's okay.--There's not a big enough visual difference that people will notice it anyways. It feels weird, working in my shop with no lathe in there.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 1, 2022)

Tomorrow I will make up some hardened filing buttons and round off a bunch of sharp corners, and have one more part finished.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 2, 2022)

Today I made the four red levers that connect to the steam valves. I wouldn't go so far as to say I hate them worse than snakes, but these are about the smallest things that I can make. That coin in the picture is a Canadian dollar. These links still have to be rounded off on one end, but all the hard work is done.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 3, 2022)

Every day I try to do a little bit. Today I worked on levers and linkages. I also had a great idea for rounding off the ends of levers, etcetera, but it's one of those things that I need my lathe for.


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## almega (Mar 3, 2022)

I like your goal of a part per day; keeps the project from stalling out. 
I see the Dykem is prominently positioned in the background. One of my favorite tools.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 3, 2022)

Yes, that Dykem has saved my butt any number of times. I trust the DRO on my mill, but it's awful nice to see that my cutting tool actually lines up with something I have laid out beforehand.


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## almega (Mar 3, 2022)

I do the same and I have avoided creating scrap a few times when I misinterpreted a dimension and see that the first very light pass is not lining up with my scribed lines. And I kind of like the smell of the stuff.
You mentioned you made some very small parts and photographed them next to a Loonie, here are some I made for a small hot air engine I have been working on. Made out of 12L14 on my old Logan and I only scrapped one of the pins and one of the bearing spacers. That's a penny.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 4, 2022)

I've almost reached a point where there aren't many things left to build before I get my lathe back. If I run out of things to make without the lathe, I will start the cylinder block.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 5, 2022)

I decided that I really needed to build a wooden base to do this right. The base will be made from 2" x 3/4" pine and will be stained a medium dark brown color and clear-coated. This gets the flywheel  about 1/4" above the underside of the wooden base for it to clear the table-top.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 5, 2022)

Today I am sorely done up with arthritis. I do take medicine for it, but the day before a rain storm is coming I suffer like Hell!!! I did however, make my engine part for today. This wasn't as big a job as you might think. I designed the base to be made from 6" x 1/2" aluminum bar, so all I really did was cut it to length and cut that big rectangular hole for the flywheel to fit into. I think that on Monday I'm going to start on the big cube that becomes the cylinder. I will be making it from mild steel, and it will have about a zillion #4-40 holes tapped into it. My machinery handbook suggests that the largest tap drill I can use is 0.095" diameter and the actual body of a #4-40 bolt is 0.110" diameter. That doesn't allow for a lot of thread engagement, but then again I'm not going to be towing trucks with this cylinder, and I'm really concerned about breaking taps. I will probably go to my tool supplier and buy four drills and four new taps just for this job.


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## Ghosty (Mar 5, 2022)

Brian,
I was going to suggest that you get some more taps and dies and use plenty of lube on them. Work out how many holes and divide by the number of taps and only do that many holes and then use a new tap. And just take it slow, what you don't get done today, you can always do it tomorrow.
Still following along.
Cheers
Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 5, 2022)

Thanks Andy.---I just had my tap drill size confirmed by someone who taps a lot of steel with #4-40 taps.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 6, 2022)

Today was one of those seriously bad "Everything I done turned to poop" kind of days. I managed to drill four holes (well, actually only two show) holes in the wrong place and managed to break a #4 tap and a #5 tap off.  I did manage to get everything I have made so far mounted to the baseplate. i don't have days like this very often, but man, when I do I really do!!!


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## Ghosty (Mar 6, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I just had my tap drill size confirmed by someone who taps a lot of steel with #4-40 taps.---Brian


Brian,
From the Engineers Black Book, the 4-40 drill size is a #43, which gives a 71% thread depth. Just thought it may help.
Cheers
Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 6, 2022)

A #43 drill is 0.084". My machinery handbook tells me that I can safely go to a 0.095" pilot drill in steel. and Chris confirms that drill size is what he uses for #4 cap screws. I'm terrified of breaking taps in the cylinder, so will probably go with the 0.095" diameter drill.---Thanks--Brian


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## Iampappabear (Mar 7, 2022)

Brian, try to get a Blue Wizard tap and use decent tapping fluid you should be fine.

Recommended tap drill sizes are based on the thread depth of a standard full nut (the diameter of the bolt) if you are going deeper, you can cheat a little by going oversize with the tapping drill.

Colin


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## Steamchick (Mar 7, 2022)

I am a well practiced tap-breaker... 6 BA and smaller. Somehow everything is fine then my body twitches and "hey presto!". The tap has broken.
But slightly oversized tapping drills can help.
Brian, How do you clear the broken bits?
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 7, 2022)

Steamchick--I use a center cutting carbide end mill the same diameter as the tap drill to remove the broken tap.--OR --I use a larger endmill, cut a larger hole which includes the tap, mill to depth or all the way thru, then ream the hole and Loctite in an aluminum plug, then start over.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 7, 2022)

Today I picked up my shoulder bolts from my friend who can still order thru McMaster-Carr. They look tiny, and they are, but they should do the job just fine. I also picked up a 2 1/2" square piece of A36 mild steel x 2 5/8" long, and milled it down to 2 1/8" square. I don't get a really spectacular finishes from my face mill, and I guess it must be time to turn the carbides to present another face to the work.  I left the material a bit over length, because I get really good finishes with my lathe, and the cylinder has to be set up in the four jaw chuck to drill and bore the 1 1/8" thru hole, so I will finish it to length in the lathe.


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## Steamchick (Mar 8, 2022)

Thanks Brian. As I usually only have tool steel small taps I should be able to manage that. Just have to buy the carbide end mills in the appropriate sizes.
I have broken the odd small centre drill trying to drill-out a tap. Biggest problem is the small size.
Thanks for the advice!
K2


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## almega (Mar 8, 2022)

Just curious. How do you align the tap with the drilled hole when tapping? The threading table I have indicates for a #4-40 thread a #43 drill should be used for aluminum and a #41 for steel with 75% and 50% thread engagements respectively. In aluminum I generally go with a #42. If you are having a tap breakage issue, you could go up to a #40 drill but you would want to be careful when tightening the shoulder bolts so as not to over torque and strip them.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 8, 2022)

I normally don't use any kind of tap guide. However, for this cylinder, I will fabricate a tap guide that fits in my milling machine.


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## almega (Mar 8, 2022)

Since I started guiding my taps I have broken very few taps, even small #2s. I generally set up in my mill and drill all of the holes and then go back to the same coordinates for each hole to tap. I have a 3/8" diameter "guide bit" made in the lathe with a 90 degree included angle point that I put into a 3/8 collet and line up to the hole in the tap wrench handle. I then lightly drop the quill as I turn the tap to keep everything straight. This keeps everything in perfect alignment and doesn't take that much time, especially when compared to fixing where taps are broken. Nothing too complicated and no extra gizmo to find a space for. If you have a DRO it is easy to find the coordinates for each hole.


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## Gordon (Mar 8, 2022)

As others have said, buy or build a tapping stand. It makes a lot of difference. Keeps the tap straight and gives a much better feel for how much torque you are exerting and lets you feel when the tap bottoms out.


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## Vietti (Mar 8, 2022)

I have a piloted tap wrench.  The pilot,+/- 1/8", fits in the drill chuck.  Tap the the newly drilled hole after drilling the hole and don't move the table.  Works very well, is balanced nicely and does taps up to #10 size taps.  Highly recommended.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 8, 2022)

Today I'm really starting to miss my lathe. I'm at the point where almost everything I have left to do requires some lathe work. I have been looking up info on how to tap holes without breaking a tap. This one as described in a video by Joe Pi comes highly recommended, and should be used with a spring loaded tap driver in the mill spindle.


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## Jasonb (Mar 8, 2022)

That's a bit fancy. I just have a short length of 1/4" drill rod with  apoint at one end and a ctr drilled hole at the other so it suits small taps with no hole in the end or ones with a ctr hole. Hold that in the collet or drill chuck and use the quill to bring it down onto the end of the tap, tap wrench on the taps shank. Can't remember when I last broke a tap. DRO positions quill directly over the hole as mentioned a couple of posts above.


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## rhitee93 (Mar 8, 2022)

Sorry to burst in after not posting in years, but I use one of these, and love it.  The pilot on the back fits in a collet or drill chuck in the mill to maintain alignment.  However, being a small tap handle, it gives great feedback.  They are cheep too.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05041850


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## Vietti (Mar 8, 2022)

That's what I'm talking about!  Some T handle wrenches like this have hole in the top so a pilot is easily added.  Check yours.  I wouldn't say I've never broken a tap with this tool but I do much better than with other tapping schemes.

A small pilot is nice for most smaller taps so you don't have to open the chuck so far to insert a 1/4" pilot.  Just grip the pilot loose enough to turn it easily and advance the quill if needed for a deep hole.  On withdrawing the the tap you may need to grip the key less chuck so it doesn't tighten on the pilot as you turn the wrench to withdraw the tap.


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## almega (Mar 8, 2022)

Tapping stands are nice but you still have to get the hole properly aligned with the tap to be perfectly vertical and you have to have a place to store it. I only have one little bit to store and I know on my mill that I have the hole perfectly aligned each time. Here are a couple photos: one of the bit and the other of the set-up. BTW, that happens to be a 4-40 tap.


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## Charles Lamont (Mar 8, 2022)

I do nearly all tapping in a stand I made decades ago to the George Thomas design


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## Gordon (Mar 8, 2022)

This is what I bought several years ago and use it all the time. I added some spacers under the head to give me more clearance. 









						Hhip Mini E-Z Hand Tapper 3900-0252 | Zoro
					

Order Hhip Mini E-Z Hand Tapper, 3900-0252 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.




					www.zoro.com


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 9, 2022)

Today I'm in design mode. Looking at making up a welding jig for the flywheel. I can mount my face-plate on the lathe, and make a center hole plug that is bored to be a precise fit into the faceplate center hole, with a precise center hole in the center plug which will accept the hub of the flywheel and center it. (I will leave the hub full diameter and about 3" long on that side only) I can use elements from my clamping kit for the mill to hold the outer rim of the flywheel firmly against the face of the faceplate and still allow access for my dial gauge to precisely center the outer rim before clamping it. The spokes are then slid thru holes in the flywheel rim and into blind pockets in the hub. In fact, at this time the spokes can be loctited into the blind holes in the hub. The spokes are sized so that when seated and Loctited into the blind holes in the hub, they are about 0.100" shy of the flywheel outer diameter. After 24 hours set up time, the faceplate gets unbolted form the lathe and taken out into my welding shop where the ends of the spokes are tig welded into the flywheel rim and any remaining depression in the hole gets filled with tig weld. Then the set up is dismantled and then the extra long hub which was previously held in the brown center plug gets mounted in the 3 jaw chuck and the o.d. of the flywheel gets turned very lightly to smooth the welded areas. Then with my reverse jaws in the lathe chuck, I hold the o.d. of the flywheel rim and finish turning and boring the hub center hole.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 9, 2022)

Having a quiet day today, cleaning up tiny bits that are outstanding. Today I ran into that age old conundrum "I designed it this way, but I can't make it on my machinery, so I'll redesign it to what my machines can make." Those small links with the series of holes in them were going to be totally different, but I had no really good way to cut the large radius required, so they ended up with parallel sides and some cosmetic holes in them. I have a serious bunch of rounding off to do, but all in all I'm happy with the way they are turning out.--And these are the smallest parts that I have to make. I heard back this morning from the people who are fixing my lathe, and it's not going to be cheap. It's going to cost around $700 to fix, but that's a lot cheaper than buying another lathe. Maybe tomorrow I will set up my rotary table and round off all the ends of the links in the picture.


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## bmac2 (Mar 9, 2022)

Hi Brian. Having built more than a few of Elmer Verburg’s engines I’ve tapped a lot of #2-56 holes. I haven’t broken a tap since I started using quality taps, cutting fluid and a guide.

My tapping guide is just mounted on the column of my small drill press and uses the same table.





I’ve been very happy with the Buttercut IPT cutting compound from Busy Bee.

By far the best small taps I have found are the Sowa spiral point  taps from Thomas Skinner or United Tool Supply. They just cut like butter and it’s amazing to see a nice curly shaving coming off a 2-56 tap in steel.












And my goto in the shop is iEngineer on my old ipod


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## Jasonb (Mar 10, 2022)

Interesting that they call it a spiral point when every other maker would term that a spiral FLUTE tap.  Or have you got it in the wrong box as their site seems to name them correctly? SOWA - Homepage

Spiral point tend to have straight flutes except for the end which is angled to push swarf ahead of the tap so meant for through holes. 






The Spiral flute type act more like a drill bit with the helical flutes directing the swarf up out of the hole.






I tend to use Spiral flute most of the time now.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 10, 2022)

I just heard from BusyBee in Toronto, and my lathe is fixed and test ran for an hour. They missed the shipment to Barrie, but I will pick it up Monday in Toronto.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 10, 2022)

Question for anyone who may have built this engine. The 3D model I downloaded has the valve shafts in two separate pieces keyed together with a mechanical tongue and groove. Why is this so? Why not combine those two separate pieces and make them a one piece unit?


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## Charles Lamont (Mar 10, 2022)

Well, Brian, I have not built a Corliss valve engine, but that does not mean I don't have an answer! It allows the valve to be 'floating'. That is to say, not subject to any lateral forces from the actuating mechanism that would in time cause wear on both the valve and its chamber. Of course, it also means that those forces are taken by the much smaller driving stem and its bearing in the valve bonnet.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 10, 2022)

Charles, you may well be correct. I don't think that will be a real factor in a small model engine, but it is the only explanation I have received.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 10, 2022)

The only real work today was rounding over the ends of the links, which went very well. For all those that asked about how to make the built up flywheel, this is the way I will do it. Combine this drawing with the faceplate jig shown in post #84 and it will get you there.---Brian


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## raveney (Mar 11, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Question for anyone who may have built this engine. The 3D model I downloaded has the valve shafts in two separate pieces keyed together with a mechanical tongue and groove. Why is this so? Why not combine those two separate pieces and make them a one piece unit?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Steamchick (Mar 11, 2022)

Just an odd idea from a know-nowt.... the valve is free-floating from the rotary actuator, as explained to minimise wear affecting sealing, but to permit the valve to float and seal, so the forces on the valve from steam pressure while the valve is closed do not or cannot react back to the valve linkage. I.E. The valve can float and seal properly, yet the only force reacting to the valve gear is torsional = friction for the valve in its hole.
I am learning loads from this one.
Thanks!
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 11, 2022)

My lathe is home!!! I decided I didn't want to wait until Monday to get it, so went down to Toronto and got it from the repair shop this morning. The lathe runs good and is back in place in my tiny machine shop. Now I have about a thousand bolts to put back in place and get set up to run again. I checked my mileage from here to North Toronto where Busy Bee has it's main Canadian warehouse. It is exactly fifty miles from my house to there. Not cheap. Cost was the $700 as quoted, and another $100 for provincial and federal tax. I have some more automation design coming in next week, and now I know what I'll do with the money.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 11, 2022)

Everything is back in place, all hooked up and ready to rock!!! My arse is well and truly whipped. Sometimes I really wish I was fourty again. I'm going to go upstairs, have a rum and cola and not do anymore today.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 11, 2022)

I was just finishing up the outer rim on my flywheel when my lathe quit last week. Tomorrow I have a couple more passes to make on the counterbore on one side, and then the outer rim is finished. Looking at it this evening, I see that the center hub will be easy--it can be machined and drilled using my lathe and then my rotary table on the mill to put the appropriate holes in it. The spokes are just 1/4" cold rolled steel cut to length. The issue I can see right now is how to position the outer rim to drill the 8 "spoke holes" in it. It is too large for my rotary table which has a 4" chuck mounted on it. Although the rim can be mounted on my lathe chuck, I have no way of indexing it properly, and I have no drill guide mounted to my lathe carriage to drill it while it is held in the chuck, although I could probably build something if I had to. Only thing I can do tomorrow while I have the rim mounted in my lathe chuck is to scribe a centerline around the perimeter. My best thought at the moment is to lay out the exact rim diameter on a piece of plywood, using a drafting compass. (This gives me an exact center). Then I can lay out 45 degree increments on the plywood, lay the outer rim on the plywood, and use a machinists square to transfer the 45 degree increment lines up onto the outer rim to intersect the scribed centerline. Drilling the holes won't be any problem--I can do that on my mill or drill press. Locating the holes accurately will be the trick.


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## dsage (Mar 11, 2022)

Calculate the circumference of the flywheel (pixD) Using cad draw a line that long and divide it into 8 (the number of spokes). Print it and cut a strip from the paper and wrap it around the flywheel. Center punch where the marks are on the paper. Drill.
If you need a longer strip than 11" (the length of a piece of paper) make two strips and tape / glue them together.


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## Jasonb (Mar 12, 2022)

Your lathe has a 40T gear on the spindle, make a simple detent or similar and index every 5 teeth. Scribe a line with an HSS tool in the tool post and then move the work to your drill press or mill to drill the holes.

Other options are to hold in the 4-jaw and use the jaws to index 4 holes at 90deg using the jaws as a ref, then set the jaws at 45deg and mark the other 4. Or cut a strip of paper, wrap around the rim and mark where it overlaps. Measure the length of the paper and then divide by eight and then wrap it back around the rim and use your eight divisions to mark the holes. fix a plywood disc to your rotary table and the rim to that so you can wind it around 45deg and mark the hole position.  Hold your big chuck by the flange in the 4" chuck, it will be rigid enough for marking out on the rotary table, etc. So many other ways too.

Regarding the remaining turning on the rim, one reason they can let the smoke out is running too long at slow speeds which are often used on larger dia work. Run the lathe faster and take lighter cuts. It would also help to use a **GT insert as they are sharper and put less load and therefor the motor draws less current but previous suggestions to use these seem to have fallen on deaf ears. At the very least stop and let the motor cool as at low speeds the fan won't be doing much.


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## phred (Mar 12, 2022)

I have used the tape around the chuck method with success to cut a 17 tooth gear, worked well!


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 12, 2022)

I thought about using a Pi tape to do that.  Haven't fully decided yet.


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## Charles Lamont (Mar 12, 2022)

Looking at it from a different direction: turn a bit of scrap wooden board or MDF in the lathe with a centre hole and a shoulder to fit inside the rim, and mount that on the rotary table, in place of the chuck.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 12, 2022)

Charles--I like that. I may glue something up tonight so it will be ready in the morning.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 12, 2022)

I've went "Full Hillbilly" on the set up to drill the outer rim of the flywheel. Thanks to Charles Lamont of the U.K. for the idea. A piece of 3/4" plywood was turned to be a snug fit into the counterbore on one side of the flywheel rim. The plywood has a 3" hole cut in its center and is gripped by expanding the jaws of the chuck on the rotary table. A second piece of 3/4" plywood is attached from the other side with long screw-nails to hold the steel rim so it doesn't fall off while being drilled. There is a centerline scribed on the outer diameter of the rim. Even if the outer diameter and the hole in the plywood aren't perfectly concentric, it doesn't matter. What I'm after here is the correct number of degrees between holes drilled in the rim. As long as I pick up the centerline marked on the outer rim every 45 degrees, the holes will be in the right place, even if the plywood "orbits" a bit when I advance the rotary table. The holes in the hub are reamed for an exact fit of the 1/4" spokes, because I am using loctite between the spokes and the hub. The holes in the outer rim will be drilled 1/4" and not reamed. This gives me a better chance of getting the spokes exactly in place, and since they will be welded to the outer rim I can afford a bit more clearance for fit-up.


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## ajoeiam (Mar 13, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I've went "Full Hillbilly" on the set up to drill the outer rim of the flywheel. Thanks to Charles Lamont of the U.K. for the idea. A piece of 3/4" plywood was turned to be a snug fit into the counterbore on one side of the flywheel rim. The plywood has a 3" hole cut in its center and is gripped by expanding the jaws of the chuck on the rotary table. A second piece of 3/4" plywood is attached from the other side with long screw-nails to hold the steel rim so it doesn't fall off while being drilled. There is a centerline scribed on the outer diameter of the rim. Even if the outer diameter and the hole in the plywood aren't perfectly concentric, it doesn't matter. What I'm after here is the correct number of degrees between holes drilled in the rim. As long as I pick up the centerline marked on the outer rim every 45 degrees, the holes will be in the right place, even if the plywood "orbits" a bit when I advance the rotary table. The holes in the hub are reamed for an exact fit of the 1/4" spokes, because I am using loctite between the spokes and the hub. The holes in the outer rim will be drilled 1/4" and not reamed. This gives me a better chance of getting the spokes exactly in place, and since they will be welded to the outer rim I can afford a bit more clearance for fit-up.



There was a very easy solution - - - surprised no one mentioned it. 

1. Calculate the circumference (this is one time I really like to use mm!). 
2. using your scribed line center punch a dimple. 
3. circumference divided by 8 - - -  except you actually have to use the chord length 
(formulas  chord length = 2 x sq root of r2 - d2    or 2 x r x sin of c/2   where c is the angle of the chord in degrees) 
4. set something you scribe such distance with (I usually just used my 8" vernier) starting at the center punch mark 
5. mark lightly - - - when complete you should get a mark back at your center punch mark 
6. if your last mark is NOT right on the center punch mark measure the difference, adjust your tool and re-mark the distances 
7. if correct spacing has been achieved - - well I used a pin punch for the first round and then a center punch. 

Easy peasy!

Used this technique a lot for flanges - - - up to 16 - 2" dia holes on a big boy. 
That took some drilling (a big old Cincinnati radial arm drill with about 20 hp on the crank!!!).


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 13, 2022)

So there we have it. The outer rim has been drilled and everything put together for a "mock up".  It looks good. Now that I know it will all fit together I have to take it apart, put the faceplate back on the lathe, and clamp the outer flywheel rim so that it is on center. Then take the faceplate off the lathe, reassemble it all, Loctite the spoke ends that fit into the hubs, let it set up 4 hours, then weld the spokes to the outer rim.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 13, 2022)

Everything is Loctited and assembled and will be welded tomorrow after the Loctite has had a good set up time. It was far harder to get that outer rim centered on the faceplate than I thought it was going to be. I had to walk away from it a couple of times and do other things because it just wasn't happening for me. I finally managed to get it "close" and decided "close" was good enough for me. Tomorrow I will do my magic TIG weld trick to tie the spokes to the outer rim. I haven't worked nearly enough with the TIG welder to become proficient in any ways, but these welds won't be visible by the time I get finished. I haven't put the bore in the hub yet. When I'm all finished welding I will grip the outside diameter of the rim and drill/ream the hub then so they will be concentric.


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## almega (Mar 14, 2022)

I too utilize occasional hillbilly engineering and I like the overall process you used (except for the lathe fail part) and will file it away for future reference. Looking at your photo, I have two questions: what is the greenish stuff around the hub at the faceplate and in what way do you incorporate the slippers on the bench in the background?


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 14, 2022)

The green stuff is 638 loctite between the spokes and the hub. The slippers are there because my wife and I wage constant war about the chips I carry from my shop up to the main floor of the house.


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## almega (Mar 14, 2022)

Did the locktite drip down onto the faceplate and glue the hub to the plate or does it break free easily?

I can identify with the chips issue. I have to take off my shoes at the basement door and carry them across the kitchen floor to where my house shoes (aka slippers) are to keep the peace. A small price to pay since she does allow me the latitude and budget to pursue my interests.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 14, 2022)

Loctite is an anaerobic compound that sets up in the absence of oxygen. Any of it that just "pools out" doesn't really harden. Eventually it will dry into a sticky mess with very little strength..


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 14, 2022)

And now you know how I spent most of my day.  The TIG welding went fine--I always surprise myself. There are a few pockets that need filling, but that's why they make J.B. Weld. The flywheel will be painted. After welding and removing the flywheel from the welding jig, it went back up on the lathe for a bit more finessing. I got up earlier than my good wife this morning, so in aid of being quiet until she got up I made the crank arm. All in all, a good day!!!


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## Richard Hed (Mar 14, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Steamchick--I use a center cutting carbide end mill the same diameter as the tap drill to remove the broken tap.--OR --I use a larger endmill, cut a larger hole which includes the tap, mill to depth or all the way thru, then ream the hole and Loctite in an aluminum plug, then start over.


If you can get some left hand drills, sometimes the tap can be "unscrewed"


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## Richard Hed (Mar 14, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Question for anyone who may have built this engine. The 3D model I downloaded has the valve shafts in two separate pieces keyed together with a mechanical tongue and groove. Why is this so? Why not combine those two separate pieces and make them a one piece unit?


I have the Coles Corliss.  I redesign LOTS of parts.  Some are, IMNSHO, ridiculous in the way they are two parts instead of one.  In your case, is the valve cast iron?  This may be why there are two parts.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 14, 2022)

I am working from a set of cad models that give the dimensional information, but not the material. I don't plan on using cast iron for the valves.


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## almega (Mar 14, 2022)

That flywheel looks mighty fine. Nice job.


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## Steamchick (Mar 15, 2022)

I agree with Almega. An excellent job - and tutorial - on the flywheel. A typical "Brian" engine. Just looks right all the way... sets a standard for my aspirations.
K2


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## ChazzC (Mar 15, 2022)

almega said:


> Did the locktite drip down onto the faceplate and glue the hub to the plate or does it break free easily?
> 
> I can identify with the chips issue. I have to take off my shoes at the basement door and carry them across the kitchen floor to where my house shoes (aka slippers) are to keep the peace. A small price to pay since she does allow me the latitude and budget to pursue my interests.



I solved the chip issue with a grooved doormat placed at the entry/exit to the basement: it's amazing how much fine dust and chips will accumulate, and none make it upstairs.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 15, 2022)

Nothing to report today. Spent the morning designing a robot arm gripper and spent the afternoon going to doctors appointments. Doctor said I was good for another seventy five years. I attempted to make a cylinder end cap, but something moved in my set-up and I buggered up the part. Will try to make the part a different way tomorrow.


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## almega (Mar 15, 2022)

I hope you make it another 75 years and mine is the last voice you hear.

Cheers


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## Jasonb (Mar 16, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I am working from a set of cad models that give the dimensional information, but not the material. I don't plan on using cast iron for the valves.



Brian if you download the original drawings that the CAD model was produced from they give the materials.

Original engine would likely have had them as machined castings so that is probably whey the spindle is separate and the model like several others carry that feature over. Possibly also helps with any poor alinement between valve bores and the cover plates.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 16, 2022)

Something is really strange around the Rupnow Ranch today--- I bored the cylinder, and made two endcaps. Two of them!!! And without leaving the shop, I can only find one of them. I looked everywhere. I cleaned up the shop and office. I put all my tools away. I won't make another endcap to replace the missing one, because sooner or later it will show up. Meanwhile, I made one of the brass cover plates, and maybe tomorrow I'll make a second one. Really, really strange----


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## SteamChEng (Mar 16, 2022)

It's on walkabout.  Happens to me all the time.  It will come back soon and you'll be back to work.


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## Gordon (Mar 16, 2022)

I have had parts and tools disappear when I have not taken three steps away from the bench.


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## johnl (Mar 16, 2022)

I usually find that it’s hiding in plain sight.


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## CFLBob (Mar 16, 2022)

A friend and I were talking about this once; you're working with something or just made something and either you put it down or drop it then it's gone.  The next day or in a couple of days you look in the exact same spot and this time it's there.  

He told me that it's consistent with quantum mechanics that it breaks out of our time line and time travels to that place in the future.  It sits there not on any time line until the timeline we're on catches up with it and they merge.  Once that happens, we can see it again.  

I don't want to believe that, but it has worked out so many times that it's getting easier to believe it.


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## Steamchick (Mar 17, 2022)

Glad to hear you are well.
K2


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## Steamchick (Mar 17, 2022)

N.B. Bob is right about the Quantum mechanical effect... Totally random, otherwise inexplicable, and a nuisance. Otherwise it is the Borrowers... being cheeky!
The Borrowers - Wikipedia 
K2


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## Charles Lamont (Mar 17, 2022)

Brian, it will be in the last place you look!

I am trying to learn that when I go to fetch or find something else, I should first put down the thing already in my hand.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 17, 2022)

Found it!!--it was laying under one of my detail sheets. I could have sworn that I looked there three or four times before. I think the bugger went someplace and then come back. Whatever, I'm glad to have it back here.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 17, 2022)

After making  tap guide and spring loaded thingy to drive it, I lay down and had my "old man middle of the day nap". Got up from that and used some new-found energy to drill  the cylinder end caps. I realized that the cross-head guide had the same bolt pattern as the rod-end cap so clamped them together and got a "two for one" deal when I drilled the cap for the rod end.


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## BECENG (Mar 18, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Something is really strange around the Rupnow Ranch today--- I bored the cylinder, and made two endcaps. Two of them!!! And without leaving the shop, I can only find one of them. I looked everywhere. I cleaned up the shop and office. I put all my tools away. I won't make another endcap to replace the missing one, because sooner or later it will show up. Meanwhile, I made one of the brass cover plates, and maybe tomorrow I'll make a second one. Really, really strange----


Hi Brian,
you are making excellent progress and the wide flywheel looks great. Just an observation but i notice that the eccentric rod from the crank shaft is connected to the top hole of the intermediate lever arm. The plans show it should be connected to the lower hole and the upper hole is for the valve arms.! I am also working on the same model but have not been able to work on it for several months due to work. However I will post some photos soon.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 18, 2022)

Today I drilled and tapped 18 holes in the cylinder. My cheeks are sore from clenched muscles!! The tapped holes under the brass thing are all put in with new spiral flute #4-40 taps and went very smoothly. The threads under the round flange are #5-40 and they were put in with an old "standard" tap, and there is a world of difference. I will talk to my tool guy and buy a couple of spiral flute #5-40 taps tomorrow.---Why are the bolts so long?--Because the shortest bolts I stock are 1/2" long. The bolts you see will all get shortened tomorrow.


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## Charles Lamont (Mar 19, 2022)

Chop the heads off and put nuts on. Cap-heads on a Corliss, how could you?!


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 19, 2022)

I know, Charles---they make you cringe. The first time I left home to work in the cities in 1965, was the first time I seen socket head cap screws. I loved them. They were the neatest looking fastener I had ever seen. I've had a life long love affair with socket head cap screws.


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## Charles Lamont (Mar 19, 2022)

I like them a lot too (in the right place).


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## Steamchick (Mar 19, 2022)

Hi Charles, Brian, I like the discussion. 
When I was a lad in a machine shop 55 years ago (a lot different from today's workplace!) I was taught a few things that I remember... One applies here.
Bolts have their place, so do studs and nuts. 
Where you have something like a Cast iron cylinder block, the last thing you want to do is strip a thread. So threaded holes are relatively long, 2 to 2 1/2 D in length. Studs are fitted, so you do not "work" the thread in the cadt iron, while adding torque. Then the nuts are fitted (easily replaced if stripped), which, being of stronger steel than the cast iron, can take the load as the torque is applied (rotation between nut and stud). The nut of course, being twice as strong as the cast iron, shall only be 1 x D thick. So it strips before the cast iron thread is over stressed.
If anything goes awry with the stud, it will be on the outer thread, where the nut goes, so the stud can  be removed and a new one fitted. 
But every action is arranged to fit the stud in the cast iron block when not loaded. Thus protecting the cast iron thread from damage. It only sees the tensile load after it has full 2-D thread engagement, not while the load is being applied.
I am not sure how that logic applies (or not?) to Brian's steel cylinder and high tensile Allen bolts?...
But I happen to agree with Charles, that on a model of a period design, it looks better with studs and nuts.
But as long as you don't use slotted round headed screws, I would not complain anyway.
Thanks Gents, 
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 19, 2022)

So, here we are with 82 holes drilled and tapped. The only machining left on the cylinder is the very small holes that lead from the machined cavities thru to the ends of the cylinder. Never broke a tap---Amazing.


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## Steamchick (Mar 20, 2022)

Brian, not Amazing, just your skill and care when working. An example to us all.
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 20, 2022)

And today was a massive "try every bolt in every threaded hole day".--And they all fit---mostly. I had four clearance holes that had to be stretched a bit, but everything bolted up. Tomorrow was going to be a "shorten 100 bolts day" but before I do I will contact my nut and bolt supplier and see if I can buy shorter bolts.


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## Ghosty (Mar 20, 2022)

Brian,
You should be able to get shorter bolts, these are 4-40 x 1/4 I use for walbro carby rebuilds.
Cheers
Andrew


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 20, 2022)

It's Sunday here Andrew. Nothing is open until tomorrow. My nut and bolt suppliers are pretty good. If they don't have it in stock they can usually get next day delivery from Toronto.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 21, 2022)

Today I have very little to show---but I did do some work. I machined the piston rod, and I machined the cross head. I have found from experience that two parts that are joined together with a thread, that are supposed to end up concentric to each other, seldom are.  To give me a better chance of concentricity, I hold one part in the lathes 3 jaw chuck, and one piece in the tailstock chuck, give a good application of 638 Loctite, screw them together, and leave it to cure overnight. The cross-head is marginally over-diameter. Tomorrow I will hold the piston rod in my lathes 3 jaw and carefully machine the cross-head until it is a smooth sliding fit into the cross-head guide.


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## CFLBob (Mar 21, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I have found from experience that two parts that are joined together with a thread, that are supposed to end up concentric to each other, seldom are.



Sorry, Brian, but I'm a little unclear here.  Are you saying the two parts are to have a continuous threading so that when you put the fastener in, it doesn't push them apart?   Is this procedure to set the two parts up to tap the threading?


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 21, 2022)

Bob--in a perfect world, if you cut a thread on a rod, and cut the same internal thread on a round piece that the rod screws into, the two pieces would  be concentric. If you cut these threads with a lathe, then they might be. However, if you cut the threads with a tap and die, the threads will never be perfectly aligned with the axis of the part which the threads are cut in. What this means is that although the parts are firmly attached to each other because of the threads, the axis of the two components won't be perfectly aligned. On something like this piston rod (which is guided by the cylinder end cap) and the cross-head (which is guided by the cross-head guide), you want to aim for the greatest concentricity that you can achieve. These parts were threaded with a tap and die, then coated with Loctite and screwed together, then held in the two chucks to perfectly align them as the Loctite dries.


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## Steamchick (Mar 22, 2022)

Thanks Brian.
Obviously, the final concentricity comes from the accuracy of the 3-jaw chuck holding the shaft, while you carefully machine the cross-head to size. I would be happier if I had a "truly concentric" 3-jaw chuck, or collet holder, but I don't have that luxury. Therefore I would have made the OD of the cross-head, and in the same setting bored it to an interference size for the shaft, then press-fitted the 2 parts, using the tailstock. - Just an alternative to cope with my 0.001" out-of-true chuck... A tiny fillet bead of silver solder would help lock the press-fitted parts, if I had any doubts about the strength of the press-fit. - I presume the same will apply to the piston after fitting through the end plate and gland.... Or something? I look forward to this.
Thanks Brian, always good to learn from your expertise. Much more real than a text book!
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2022)

Today it was back to "one part a day" mode. I had time to make my piston, and then got a call from a customer for design of a robot end effector to pick up aluminum roll bars for hydroforming. I might make the gland which screws into the rod end of the cylinder tonight if I have any energy left.


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## Charles Lamont (Mar 22, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> ... design of a robot end effector to pick up aluminum ...


Hmm. That triggered a trip down memory lane. I spent the first half of the '80s doing applications engineering for Unimation.


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## Jasonb (Mar 23, 2022)

Interesting approach regarding locking the crosshead to the piston rod. The way it generally is described by all the old masters and more recent makers is that it is best to fit the oversize piston to it's rod and then hold in 4-jaw, split bush or collet and machine the piston down to size so it is concentric to the rod and do not remove it after that.  Reason being is that the cylinder bore and hole in the end cover are the closest two parts so there is little room for error if they the piston/rod assembly is not concentric.

Also on many and engine a screed on crosshead is used to allow the builder to adjust the length of the rod so that the piston can be set to move equally about the cylinders ctr line so that is left with a usable thread and fitted with a locknut

One really needs to have one end that can be taken apart so the engine can be assembled and the cross head is the usual candidate. If you can
t get a thread true and don't need length adjustment then a reamed hole and spigot on the rod works well and can be retained with a taper pin

Maybe with you new tap guide you will be able to get a truer thread in the crosshead, also do you use a tailstock die holder? One other trick is to use a fine pitch thread as it's less likely to wander than a coarse one.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 23, 2022)

Today we have something new--for me anyways. Turning a taper using the top slide. I haven't done this before, and it works well, even if it is a bit tense. Being very, very careful that the turning rectangular end of the con rod doesn't hit the toolpost. I'm almost finished this first end of the con rod. I got to hold one end in the chuck for this first end. I have drilled both ends of the blank for a center, so the second end will be turned between centers with a lathe dog.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 23, 2022)

This is the set-up for turning the second half of the tapered con-rod, complete with lathe dog.---And no, a pig doesn't live in my lathe but sometimes it shore looks that way. I do clean up between engines.


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## gartof (Mar 23, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> This is the set-up for turning the second half of the tapered con-rod, complete with lathe dog.---And no, a pig doesn't live in my lathe but sometimes it shore looks that way. I do clean up between engines.


Makes it look like it is used.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 23, 2022)

The con rod is finished except for some final sanding. The piston is finished. There is a lot of work in that connecting rod!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 24, 2022)

So, what did I make today?---Not much really. Spent the morning going to doctors appointments---got a needle to prevent pneumonia, got a needle to prevent shingles, set up appointments to see other doctors. Came home, eat lunch, and then went down to my little shop and built an eccentric. You can't see it in the picture, but this is a very special two part eccentric that has the far side flange bolted on with three #40 shcs. About half way thru the build of this eccentric, which was made two part so that I could make a one piece eccentric strap, I realized that it was a great idea but there wouldn't be any way to reach the grub screw to set the valve timing. Well POOP!!! Decided that since it was half finished, I might as well keep working and finish it, but will still have to build a two piece eccentric strap. You can see in the picture that I also finished the gland that screws into the rod end cylinder cap. I think the only things left to make are the eccentric strap and the valves. Wow!!! I won't make the wooden base until I'm sure that the engine runs.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 25, 2022)

There is an absolutely stupid amount of time required to make an eccentric strap. I worked from 9:00 this morning until 2:00 this afternoon making this one part. Maybe this afternoon I can see about making the valves.


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## CFLBob (Mar 25, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I worked from 9:00 this morning until 2:00 this afternoon making this one part.



One part?  Which one?  I see at least three, not counting the screws.  There might be hidden parts held by the three SHCS in the steel disk with the eccentric hole.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 25, 2022)

Bob--all I made today was the eccentric strap. The other parts you see were made on previous days. I spent some time this afternoon applying J.B.Weld to the face of the flywheel where I had welded the spokes, filled a couple of holes on the base that I had drilled in the wrong place, and healed up a center drilled mark on the connecting rod where I almost drilled a hole in the wrong place.


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## tevans9129 (Mar 25, 2022)

Thanks for sharing this build Brian, I am really enjoying the ride. It is gratifying to see that I am not the only one that makes errors, even the experts do on occasion.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 25, 2022)

TEvans--the only people who don't make mistakes are the people who don't do anything.---Brian


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## SteamChEng (Mar 25, 2022)

Solid progress, Brian.  As Purdue used to say, "It takes a tough man to make a tender chicken."  All your hard work and attention to detail pay off in spades when your engines are finished and run.  This is going to be one pretty engine!


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## Steamchick (Mar 26, 2022)

Hi Brian. We all learned something from that bit of build, I guess! #173 to #174.
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 26, 2022)

Liar,Liar, Pants on fire---I said yesterday that I only had the valves left to make. A closer look this morning showed that I had yet to make the air intake and exhaust pieces. Got it all sorted out today anyways. I think I'm going to remake the "wobble plate" that sets on the front of the cylinder block and operates all the valves. I misread my own drawing when I made it, and although it would work as is, it looks to skinny for my taste. I hope I have another piece of brass big enough to make it from. If not, it will be made from mild steel.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 27, 2022)

Today I made a new "wobble plate" that fits onto the front of the engine and operates all of the valves. I also cut the slot in the cross-head guide. I still need to buy some #2-56 socket head capscrews to tighten the linkage onto the ends of the valves that protrude thru the outside of the block. I have nothing major left to build. Maybe an adjustable rod end to run the wobble plate, and I still have to drill and tap a set-screw hole thru the center of the eccentric to clamp it onto the crankshaft.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 27, 2022)

I'm pretty sure that I've seen this before---Somebody was riding it across the desert in a StarWars movie!!!


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## Steamchick (Mar 28, 2022)

Hi Brian,
A friend made a Corliss, but couldn't get it to run, even though he followed instructions on setting the valve timing (Repeatedly!). I guess you have a good idea how to set the timing? Will you be coming to that after marrying the engine to the crankshaft and eccentric? Not everything looks correct on valve setting as it is (to my untrained eye). I would have guessed that a slot in the end of the shaft for the little cranks on each valve, would enable you to slacken the pinch bolt and rotate the valve for fine tuning of "just opening", or "just closing" of any valve? I would also put a pop mark on the end of the shaft to the side where the valve is open... That way I could "see" the valve position from "outside" the engine. Especially if I had put a slot in line with the milled flat on the valve. (Please excuse my "Hindsight" ideas. sometimes better than my foresight!).






I wait with bated breath! (Whatever that is! - Some form of halitosis? - I hope not.).
Loving the build. Excellent work as usual!
Regards,
K2


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## Jasonb (Mar 28, 2022)

Funny enough I also suggested a screwdriver slot to Brian about a month ago on another forum, great minds and all that


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 28, 2022)

There will be slots. This entire "put it together exercise" is only that---to insure that everything does indeed go together.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 28, 2022)

Today seen the first full assembly of the engine, with all the parts in place. Everything goes round and round and up and down with no major stoppages or binds as it rotated thru 360 degrees. The valves haven't been timed yet, and there will be considerable attention paid to cosmetic stuff, but today was a milestone for me, just seeing all the parts assembled and going thru their motions. If the engine Gods smile on me, I may have a runner sometimes in the coming week.----Brian


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## phred (Mar 28, 2022)

looking good! excellent work as always.


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## tevans9129 (Mar 28, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Today seen the first full assembly of the engine, with all the parts in place. Everything goes round and round and up and down with no major stoppages or binds as it rotated thru 360 degrees. The valves haven't been timed yet, and there will be considerable attention paid to cosmetic stuff, but today was a milestone for me, just seeing all the parts assembled and going thru their motions. If the engine Gods smile on me, I may have a runner sometimes in the coming week.----Brian




Beautiful, very impressive.


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## lathe nut (Mar 28, 2022)

looks great, I can smell the steam and hear the hissing as the connecting rod goes in the stuffing box, like the old man taught me how to run it, the sound of one will put you to sleep quick in the early morning hours just before daylight, boy was he right.


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## sawyer massey (Mar 29, 2022)

When you set the valves.....keep the working side to the pressure side ......admition to to bore exhaust to the center ....makes the Governor work better more even pressure ....took me a few years to figure that one out


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## Steamchick (Mar 30, 2022)

Looks great Brian! 
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 31, 2022)

My Corliss is out on the workbench being "run in" by an electric motor. This has been a busier than average week for me, and I haven't had much of a chance to play with the engine. This is the only way I know of loosening things up until the engine spins freely with very little drag. The shaft drags a little in the bearings. The piston drags a little in the cylinder. The cross-head drags a little bit in the cross head guide. Non of these areas of friction are deal breakers by themselves, but added together they do present enough total friction to keep the engine from running on relatively low air pressure. I much prefer an engine that spins freely with very little drag, but on almost all of my engines, be they steam or gasoline powered, they require this "running in" to loosen up all the tight spots. The engine is turning at about 450 rpm, and everything is bolted down tight and slathered with lubricating oil. I will let it run that way for about two hours, checking every half hour to squirt on a little more lubricating oil. I have to make gaskets yet, but the next step after making and installing all of the gaskets should be a running engine.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 31, 2022)

The two hours of "running in" is over , and after cleaning up all the lubricating oil, the engine turns as smooth as silk. Something has gone awry with my Solidworks, and I seem to have lost the capability to print gaskets off at 1:1 scale. This is a fairly big deal, as this engine has a lot of gaskets. I don't even have a drafting board and machine to hand draw the gaskets right now, so tomorrow I will try doing a re-install to see if that clears up the problem.


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## sawyer massey (Mar 31, 2022)

Are you putting a governor on it ?


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 31, 2022)

No, at least not a working governor. The other models that people have built of this engine have "show governors" but they don't actually work.


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## Steamchick (Apr 1, 2022)

Hi Brian, I recognise the idea of printing gaskets, but the "traditional" method of making them "from the joint faces" will still work when the "technology" doesn't. - I use the parts, not CAD. Works fine for me. (It is how I was taught as a Kid.). I Just find good brown paper hard to acquire nowadays. 
K2.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 1, 2022)

This morning I put a saw cut in the rear (non-linkage) end of the four valves, and scratched an "x" on the side which corresponds with the cut away section at the center of each valve. I messed around for what seemed like a very long time with the linkages and the main "wobble plate" which pivots on the center of the cylinder, to get them freed up and operating while I turned the flywheel. I have been studying Arnolds build thread on Model Engine Machinist, and Captain Jerry posted a set of directions for timing this engine (Reply #305) that reads as follows:#1--Set crank to horizontal, either at tdc or bdc.--Yep, I understand that. #2-Set eccentric 90 degrees to crank (Hi point up)--Yep, understand that too. #3-set main wobble plate on side of cylinder to vertical--Got that too. The last direction #4 reads "Adjust each valve so the valve edge is at the edge of it's respective port", and I don't understand that. Can someone please do quick a quick sketch of the four valves in this condition showing me what position each cut away section of each valve will be?---thanks, --Brian


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## Jasonb (Apr 1, 2022)

like this, as the left sketch when in the middle, then as the right when the plate moves


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 1, 2022)

Jason--Thank you. Does the colored portion indicate the solid center section of the rotary valve ?--Brian


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## Jasonb (Apr 1, 2022)

Yes that is the solid part, also see my additional reply on MEM

It's just like any other slide valve equiped steam engine, when the valve is in mid position both passages to the ends of the cylinder are closed by the valve


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 2, 2022)

Well, no good news to report. I never did get my cad system to print 1:1 templates to make gaskets. A friend with the same system as I have will print 1:1 templates for me this week. I have not been able to get the engine to run in it's current state with no gaskets, too many air leaks. I didn't have a correct size o-ring for the piston, but for the moment have stretched a 1" o-ring over my  1 1/8" piston----this is never a good idea, but sometimes you just work with what you've got. I have dismantled the cylinder and cross-head assembly from the base and flywheel and when I get gaskets made I will adjust the valves until moving the wobble-plate from side to side make the piston and rod travel back and forth. I may remove the packing gland as well until I get things sorted. Reassembly of all parts is not a big deal----takes about 15 minutes. Our snow is almost gone from the front and back yard and one more day above freezing should get rid of the last of it. Yesterday the biggest fox I have seen in my life walked down the side of our lot. We've been here 22 years now, and have seen almost every kind of Ontario animal in our yard except for a bear and a moose.


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## Steamchick (Apr 3, 2022)

Hi Brian, I'm glad to be in the UK. After 4 days when it dropped below freezing (-2 C!) overnight.... That was enough winter for me! I did get to shovel snow off the step one day.... 1 shovel full cleared 7 steps so my Missus didn't slip on her way down. Well, maybe the shovel was half full... But the 1/2 inch of snow on the lawn lasted nearly an hour. Not sure what the Geraniums thought of the weather? - Maybe I put them out too soon? The daffodils and other early bulbs are putting on a good display though, and won't be troubled by an odd night of frost.
Expecting warmer (between 7 & 10 degrees C) here today... so maybe I won't need a heater in the garage...
Ever thought of living in warmer climes?
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 3, 2022)

I think every Canadian thinks of living in warmer climes at some point during our winter. We love our country and our way of life, but by the end of March we are all getting tired of winter. This wasn't really a bad winter that we just went through, with no extremes of snowfall or below 0 Celcius weather, but we are all looking forward to spring.


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## CFLBob (Apr 3, 2022)

The CFL in my identifier is local talk for Central Florida.  I obviously can't speak for anyone except myself, but living in the same weather every day of the year is boring.  I've lived in Florida since I was three, so about as close to native as I could be.  I've long thought about moving someplace with seasons.  I shared an office with a guy from Boston for a couple of years.  Every time we had a cold day he was ready to move farther south.  I thought it was a break.

We had a mild winter in terms of overall weather.  No record lows or anything like that, but had our first couple of days with frost in several years.  I enjoyed the changes.  I especially enjoy not having to run the air conditioner all day every day.  That's money that can buy some parts for projects.  From about mid-May until mid-October, they could just photocopy the forecast and tell us the same thing every day.  It wouldn't be wrong by far.  Every afternoon there are going to be thunderstorms the only question is which way they're going to blow.  It gets old.

In my first job, nearly 50 years ago, I noticed that customers from the northern tier would always have their executives visit to see how our company was doing right around February.  Years later, the company I worked for had its headquarters in Cedar Rapids, Iowa.  The President and his entourage would always come down for their annual State of the Company talk in February, too.  Everyone has a period when they want to get out of their weather.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 3, 2022)

Oh!!!--Be still, my racing heart!!!--it works. Not the engine itself yet, but with a full compliment of necessary gaskets, I can make the piston move back and forth in the cylinder by moving that front wobble plate back and forth. Oh Joy!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 3, 2022)

It's a great day in Barrie!!! My Corliss engine ran today for it's very first time. I have a lot of adjustments and tweaks to do before this engine is running as good as some I have seen on the internet, but  it makes my heart sing to see the engine setting there huffing away. I am very, very pleased with this and a big thank you to all the folks on the forum who offered advice or help while the project was being machined and put together. I still have cosmetic work to do, and a base to be built, but this first milestone is met and I can't get the smile off my face.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 3, 2022)

A few things I've discovered along the way--The brass bushings that the valve extensions run thru, on the linkage side, do need o-rings and gaskets. They are reamed to an exact fit on the valve extensions, but if you tighten down the bolts holding them to the cylinder they bind badly and the valves don't want to turn. If you leave them loose so as not to bind the valves, then a lot of air escapes around them. I think that the fix here is to open up the bushing bore by 0.005" or 0.006", and counterbore the side closest to the cylinder to accept a 1/8" i.d. rubber o-ring, to a depth that puts about 20% "squeeze" on the o-rings when the bolts are tightened to prevent air leaks.  The brass cover plates on the other side of the cylinder do need gaskets under them. The lever arms which clamp to the valve extensions use a #2-56 bolt to tighten them in place. Great in theory, but they slip--and if you tighten them enough that they don't slip, then it soon strips the thread in one side of the slit that the bolt tightens into.--Learning as I go here, but these are what showed up as I fettled the engine this afternoon.


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## tevans9129 (Apr 3, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> It's a great day in Barrie!!! My Corliss engine ran today for it's very first time. I have a lot of adjustments and tweaks to do before this engine is running as good as some I have seen on the internet, but  it makes my heart sing to see the engine setting there huffing away. I am very, very pleased with this and a big thank you to all the folks on the forum who offered advice or help while the project was being machined and put together. I still have cosmetic work to do, and a base to be built, but this first milestone is met and I can't get the smile off my face.---Brian




A thing of beauty and a work of art, IMO.


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## Richard Hed (Apr 3, 2022)

Steamchick said:


> Hi Brian, I'm glad to be in the UK. After 4 days when it dropped below freezing (-2 C!) overnight.... That was enough winter for me! I did get to shovel snow off the step one day.... 1 shovel full cleared 7 steps so my Missus didn't slip on her way down. Well, maybe the shovel was half full... But the 1/2 inch of snow on the lawn lasted nearly an hour. Not sure what the Geraniums thought of the weather? - Maybe I put them out too soon? The daffodils and other early bulbs are putting on a good display though, and won't be troubled by an odd night of frost.
> Expecting warmer (between 7 & 10 degrees C) here today... so maybe I won't need a heater in the garage...
> Ever thought of living in warmer climes?
> K2


I could use some of that snow here in the Philippines.  It's too hot here--have to stay in bed where there is air conditioning.  I am crying by the cubic meter, so get out your umbrellas.  Boo hoo.


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## ShopShoe (Apr 4, 2022)

Congratulations Brian!

I'm happy to see it running and I'm sure you'll get the tweaks in.

I am especially interested to see if your plan for adding O-rings to the bushings will work as I've faced that problem myself.

Very, Very Nice,

--ShopShoe


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 4, 2022)

Shopshoe--I'm pretty sure that in the original build of this engine, there were o-rings in the bushings. Then somebody else built the engine and discovered it didn't need them and they were left out of the plans. A lot of it comes down to how accurate the machining was, how good the finish and positioning of the parts was, and some luck.---Brian


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## werowance (Apr 4, 2022)

Brian, if you need i have a cnc 3018 with 15w diode laser,  it will cut that sheet gasket material, cardboard and thin wood sheets pretty easily.  ill be happy to laser cut them for you if you want and snail mail them back to you.  would just need the cad file for them to do it.  if that helps.  the build is looking great btw


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## Jasonb (Apr 4, 2022)

Yes the original drawings on MEM have O ring seals


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 4, 2022)

I made all my gaskets yesterday, the old fashioned way---lay the part on a sheet of gasket material, trace around it with pencil, mark thru where all the bolt holes are with pencil, then cut out with scissors and leather-punch for the holes. Thanks for the offer Werowance.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 4, 2022)

One thing that I have to redesign and build----The lever which turns the rotary valves. The previous ones were too wimpy, with only a #2-56 bolt providing the "squeeze" to tighten them onto the valve shaft, and this bolt was threaded into a part of the lever which was only about 1/16" thick. This allowed for tightening and readjusting about three times , and then stripped the threads out of the lever. The previous levers were only 1/8" thick. The new design which you see here is 1/4" thick and the squeeze bolt is a #5-40 socket head capscrew, and the part of the lever with threads in it has been bumped up to be thicker so it won't strip out.


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## Steamchick (Apr 5, 2022)

Well done Brian. So glad it runs... but as we said when I did a "proper job"... "the first 80% of the development build takes 20% of the time, but the finishing 20% takes 80% of the time!".
So we'll enjoy the rest of the story as it unfolds.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for all the time you spend posting the build, "warts 'n all!"
K2


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## lathe nut (Apr 5, 2022)

Brain, you have done it again, another very fine work of art, not an Engine but they are both the same in your case, when you do have the final plans done to your satisfaction I would love to purchase a set, course they have to be hand signed, that would be nice, that brings back child hood memories of the one I ran, thanks for building it and the most important parts was sharing with us, the pictures and the wright up also which took a lot of your time, thanks again, Joe "going to give us an idea what is next"


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 5, 2022)

The valves were not tight until I added gaskets under the brass bolt on bushings and cinched down the bolts which hold the bushings in place. So---this morning I made up a special weapon to loosen things up a bit. This consisted of a piece of 1/4" cold rolled steel with about 3/8" of a 1/8" drill extending beyond the end of it. (Drill was loctited into drilled center of rod). The rod was an exact fit for the valve holes thru the cylinder and the 1/8" drill got rid of any interferance from gasket or bushing body. I chucked this up in my electric drill and it made short work of any interferance with the valves. I reset the valves to what I think is the correct position, and added the gaskets and brass cover plates on the far side of the cylinder. so now all of my gaskets are in place everywhere. Instead of making new levers to operate the valves, I simply ran a #2-56 nut up the bolts and tightened the bolts into the nuts, and it seems to be holding adequately. I have disassembled the cylinder from the engine base and am back to turning the "wobble plate" by hand to see the cylinder rod extend and retract. Might have a problem here. If I rotate the wobble plate one direction, the cylinder retracts like a rifle bullet. When I turn the wobble plate the opposite direction, the piston rod is very wimpy about extending--in fact it doesn't until I give it a bit of help to get it started, then it extends fully. I'm not really sure what's going on here, but since there doesn't appear to be any binding of the cylinder rod, I'm assuming it has something to do with this rotary valve set-up.


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## Steamchick (Apr 5, 2022)

It sounds like the intake OR exhaust valve isn't opening on the "dead" stroke....?
K2


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## Jasonb (Apr 5, 2022)

Testing it like that will drive the piston right to the ends of the cylinder, you may be blocking the passage at one end, quite likely given how far in from the end they are

Or as the engine was tight and you loosened it up by" motoring" the piston would only have been moving by the stroke length and not right to the end where it will still be tight


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## Steamchick (Apr 5, 2022)

Clever ideas Jason, but maybe that would explain the need to release it at one end, but not the reason for a slow stroke...? And if it was a tight piston or ring it would be slow both ways.... 
I think?
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 5, 2022)

Jason has good ideas. He's been playing this small engine game for quite a while. I think my problem has more to do with the operation of the valves than anything. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the cylinder apart and try a new/different way to seal around the piston rod. Chris Rueby over on Model Engine Maker has a way to seal the rod that I haven't tried before, and if I succeed using his method, then I will  try to tweak the valve timing to give me better results.


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## Jasonb (Apr 6, 2022)

Seal it with gland packing that is why it's made that way, detailed reply on MEM

Steamchick, Brian's engine was tight and has been motored for a few hours. The problem with this method is it only loosens things up in one position or only get bedded in for the distance they are moving, take the engine apart and things will move and quite likely go back to being tight. The motoring will also wear away metal where there is contact, again if things move you then could end up with more clearance. Better to get a good fit on each part as it is made so you know where there may be a tight spot then there is no need for motoring and engine should run straight away.

This engine has the steam passages about 1/4" in from the ends of the cylinder, 1/8" spigots on the end covers so piston being run up and down out of the engine will move the whole length of the cylinder and cover the passages and go beyond the bedded in area where it was motored which is 1/4" from the covers. Taper in the cylinder  or non concentric piston rod hole in rear cover could mean piston is tighter at one end than the other


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## Steamchick (Apr 6, 2022)

Thanks Jason. I wholeheartedly agree that correctly designed and made parts make an assembly that runs straight away. That was what we did in industry, all my working career. But my experience of many "model" plans (even companies like Stuart!) Have many "corners cut, or not well designed" so square pegs have to be "adjusted" to fit their matching round holes.
I am making a water pump and the plans leave a lot to "interpretation"! And everything is fully adjustable, without setting advice, so it needs a bit of nowce to make it work.
When I designed High Voltage Switchgear, the 2m long insulators had manufacturing tolerances of plus or minus 2.5mm. (Because they were ceramic, machined, but with cast iron machined flanges glued on with a bitumen mix.... bolt 3 of these together with 1/4 thick gasketing, and the accumulated tolerance is more than 1 inch variation.... so the mechanical linkage needed plenty of adjustment. I arranged this adjustment to be made and locked before the last joint was made, so performance was enhanced by 2 precisely set sub-assemblies being joined. I even designed the setting jigs. No further setting required! But you don't normally get that on "model" plans.
I sympathise with Brian, as he usually does his own design from scratch. So he works out how to set things within the design process. This time, it seems he is adapting another's design, so many gaps in "the knowledge". But that is half the fun, and why we like to chat about it.
Cheers 
K2


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## Charles Lamont (Apr 6, 2022)

Brian, from your first run video I noticed the right hand exhaust valve linkage seemed to be assembled wrong. Have you checked that?


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 6, 2022)

Yes Charles, I did notice that as I watched the video. I corrected it after the video was made. Thank you.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 22, 2022)

After a couple of weeks off, dealing with my achy knees, I finally found some time to make different valve levers and fiddle with the engine some more. That first video I posted two weeks ago was running at 60 psi. After much fiddling the engine will run quite happily now on 20 psi. I don't have the rear covers and gaskets mounted on the far side of the engine to seal off the rotary valves, and when they are added I think the engine will run on less than the 20 psi as shown in this video.  If my arthritis leaves me alone, I will work on painting the engine and making a wooden base for it.


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## Steamchick (Apr 23, 2022)

Delightful! Well done Brian!
Hope the aurthur-itus keeps away... Have you tried avoiding ALL foods with Acids in them? Fruit, Whisky, Wine, Cheese, etc? Means you have to drink Gin and Beer, and eat Cabbage, Carrots and Beef with roast potatoes, instead of Beef *Bourguignon* in Tomatoes! 
But it works for me.... 
K2


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## Steamchick (Apr 23, 2022)

Oh, and drink hard water, not soft, and avoid coffee...!! (but Soft water for the steam boiler)
K2


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 24, 2022)

Two grandchildren came and raked my yard today. I helped a little bit, and my wife helped the kids rake up 18 bags of oak and maple leaves. There is still a couple of hours raking left to do, but they will do that some evening this week. As for the engine--I can not get the levers to grip the rotary valve-shafts tight enough---they slip and throw the valves out of time. It seems that no matter how well I get things set, the engine will start and run slowly, but if you rev it up very much, the levers slip and the engine gets out of time and won't run. I think I will make up one more set of levers, get everything set correctly, and then silver solder the levers to the end of the rotary valves. This may sound rather extreme, but if I do that, I can guarantee that they aren't going to slip on the shafts.


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## Ghosty (Apr 24, 2022)

Brian, you may have to set them so it runs as well as you can get it to, then pin the levers to the valves.
Cheers
Andrew


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## Steamchick (Apr 25, 2022)

Hi Brian, Have you tried Loctite? It may give you the extra security (extra torque ability), and is more easily dismantled than silver soldering?
K2.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 25, 2022)

The rotary valve shafts are not too tight. They rotate freely by hand. I have made two sets of "clamp bolt style" levers. The first levers had very little thickness on the  threaded side, and the threads stripped out before they could draw tight enough to clamp the 1/8" diameter valve shafts securely---they slipped. The second set of levers were thicker in the threaded area, and still slipped on the valve shafts. Today we have a third set of levers, and they are not "clamp on" style. They will be pinned in place with a 0.039" diameter steel rod which passes thru them and the end of the valve shafts. This is to give the correct angular position. Then things will get torn down and the new levers will be silver soldered to the valve rods. The intermediate lever which the valve actuator rods attach to will get a hub welded to one side to keep it from pulling sideways during it's operation.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 26, 2022)

This is a very nasty picture of the levers and valve shafts cross drilled and pinned. Guarantee no slippage now. The drills are 0.040" diameter-they will be replaced with 0.039" diameter shafts, cut to length and then silver soldered as a final operation.


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## Steamchick (Apr 26, 2022)

Hi Brian. Pinning should be totally secure, although the hole does weaken the shaft considerably. But there is so little force (bending and torque) on the shaft, I can't see you having problems with just a pin, so have you considered just trying a tight pin secured with a drop of Loctite, then at least you have an option of checking security with a test build and a run before committing to silver soldering? Alternatively, slightly peening over the ends will secure a pin (like a rivet, but just enough to secure it? In fact, if thesteel pin is not ahard grade, it may expand slightly during a peening operation which will also eliminate any slack. I have a small compressor (inflates car tyres) that runs off a small electric motor, and that is how the motor shaft and compressor shaft are connected. Simply, the pin is a press fit.
When I looked at my Unimat lathe pulleys (One takes full torque from the motor) they are sliding fits on their shafts, and at the 5mm dia. motor spindle there is a 2mm pin through it (just-tight fit) and the ends are locating in a related groove in the aluminium pulley.  This has had decades of use and isn't worn-out, so the pin can take the torque, and the pulley can cope with the load from whatever reaction there is from the cutting load, so maybe that is all you really need? The original motor ran between 4000rpm free load, to ~2500rpm loaded. I realised this different application is basically a "DC" load with ripple, not an "AC" load like your valve oscillation (torque positive and negative through a zero-point). But the valve is purely rotating so the only forces are against the inertia and friction involved. Or am I missing something here?
Cheers!
K2


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## CFLBob (Apr 26, 2022)

Steamchick said:


> Pinning should be totally secure, although the hole does weaken the shaft considerably. But there is so little force (bending and torque) on the shaft, I can't see you having problems with just a pin, so have you considered just trying a tight pin secured with a drop of Loctite, then at least you have an option of checking security with a test build and a run before committing to silver soldering?



Thanks, K2.

Obviously I'm not Brian, but this is helpful to me in general terms.  I'm not building a Corliss.

One of the great things about HMEM is that we can see new solutions for problems we all come across.  I don't have a problem with Brian's solution, but I couldn't implement the silver soldering - at least at the moment.  I have used red Loctite in some applications where it really holds up well.  I've even tried to break it down with a small torch and been unsuccessful.  In this situation, I'd be inclined to try it. 


Bob


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## Mike Ginn (Apr 27, 2022)

Guys
Do any of you use tapered pins?  I find these very secure and lock the parts together without any play.  Down side is that a tapered reamer is needed and great care needs to be taken with reamer depth.  They just seem to work!
Any views?
Mike


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## Steamchick (Apr 27, 2022)

I have tapered reamers, because my Dad used them on his models. But I have not searched for tapered pins (yet).
Used reliably for centuries in wood, metal and other proper engineering materials. (Not sure about plastics...).
K2


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## stanstocker (Apr 27, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> This is a very nasty picture of the levers and valve shafts cross drilled and pinned. Guarantee no slippage now. The drills are 0.040" diameter-they will be replaced with 0.039" diameter shafts, cut to length and then silver soldered as a final operation.


Hi Brian,
It might be my clock making background, but have you considered tapered pins for this application?

Cheers,
Stan


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## werowance (Apr 27, 2022)

for tapered pins something i discovered by accident is just the deflection of turning down a very small thin rod usually produces a slight taper.  i just drill a regular hole and then drive the tapered rod into place usually the pin starts in really easy then starts getting tight before i start pecking it to "drive" it on in. then cut off the excess on both ends.  sometimes i use lock tight on them as well but usually the taper in the regular hole is more than enough to keep them in place.  i guess this is probably considered as "crude" but it works great for me.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 27, 2022)

This is my third and final video of the Corliss engine I have built. This was not my design, but was (I think) designed by someone from Namibia. Some of the smaller items were redesigned to suit me and my methods of machining and fabrication. This is the first rotary valve engine that I have built, and yes, it is more complex than a standard slide-valve steam engine. Now that all of the machining and test running is finished, I will probably clean the engine up, paint it, and build a nice wooden base for it. Thank you to all who have followed my build on the model engine internet forums.---Brian rupnow


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## CFLBob (Apr 27, 2022)

Congratulations, Brian.  Looks good, runs even better.


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## minh-thanh (Apr 28, 2022)

Congratulations !


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## johwen (Apr 28, 2022)

Hi Brian, Why not use a small grub screw in the lever instead of a pin make easy dismantling in the future if it is necessary.


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## ShopShoe (Apr 28, 2022)

Congratulations Brian,

As always, I enjoy your build threads and the ultimate result.

Your continuous learning as you progress on these things is an inspiration.

Thank You for posting,

--ShopShoe


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 28, 2022)

I've learned a few new things and had to dig deep into the things I already knew for this one. It is a nice engine, it did have me stumped a couple of times, and it is very particular about it's valve timing. It has filled up 2 1/2 months of cold miserable winter, and given me something interesting to do. I'm very happy that it ended up being a good runner.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 28, 2022)

Years ago, when I first got into designing and building model engines, I designed and built the "Rupnow Engine". It was a hit and miss engine controlled by a flyball governor. It ran---didn't run really great, but it was a "first" for me.  Over the years, I have robbed parts from it, to the point where I will never actually rebuild it.---However, it has a beautiful wooden base, and measurements show that with some careful carving, that base will fit my Corliss engine. I am going to remove the remains of the "Rupnow engine" and try to make the Corliss fit into this base.


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## lathe nut (Apr 29, 2022)

*Brian* *when you have the drawings ready, I would be interested in a set of the plans, sure runs sweet, that will bring me back to my childhood days when I ran one, the one we ran was pulling water from a Bayou to flood rice land it had what was called the snail pump, had two 48 inch suctions that big engine would hardly change speeds when the suction was primed and started pumping, enjoyed the build so much, thanks again for sharing you wisdom with us, **Joe*


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## payner (Apr 29, 2022)

Great job Brian, it was fun to watch your build thread .
Keep up the great work .
Bill


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 29, 2022)

Without a whole lot of extra work, the Corliss engine now has it's own wooden base. Next up will be a bit of "plastic wood" to fill the bolt holes drilled in the side of the base and some caulking around the edges of the aluminum baseplate to make it look a bit more professional.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 30, 2022)

The great "cosmeticing" has began. First order of the day was to prime the two components that I had used some J.B. Weld on to fill holes drilled in the wrong place and fill in holes left from welding the outer end of the spokes to the flywheel outer diameter. These had been filled with J.B. weld previously, and sanded smooth, but I can never tell until I get some primer on there whether the holes
need a bit more filler or not.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 30, 2022)

This afternoon I've got the blues---But that's not a bad thing!!! Everything except for the wobble plate and the linkages got three coats of spray on Tremclad enamel. The wobble plate and linkages were painted by hand with a very small art brush. I have one bearing support that I have to add some J.B. Weld to, and I will let that set up overnight so I can finalize the shape and paint it tomorrow.


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## almega (May 1, 2022)

I do enjoy the creative ways that you have devised to hold your parts whilst they are being painted. I especially think the blue is a good look on the vise grips. Nice job. Will there be any pin stripping, maybe in red?


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## Brian Rupnow (May 1, 2022)

No, I've tried pin striping in the past. When I get some paint on the brush my hand is steady as  rock. By the time the loaded brush gets close to the work, I shiver and shake like a toad eating chain lightning.---No pinstriping.


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## almega (May 1, 2022)

An interesting visual. Thanks for the chuckle.


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## almega (May 1, 2022)

There is pin striping tape or decals that would look sharp on your model. Those are not so subject to the toad effect.
Check out the interweb if interested.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 1, 2022)

Lathe Nut--I've sent you a personal message on this forum.-----Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (May 1, 2022)

All of the engine parts are painted, unmasked, and set up together for a family shot. One bearing stand is missing---I had to J.B. Weld some "oopsies" on it last night and this morning I sanded it to shape and painted it and the paint is still wet. I have not painted any of the brass parts that show. There are a couple of very minor "blems" in the flywheel and engine base, so in about ten minutes I am off to Canadian Tire to buy a small tube of "spot putty" to fix them, and tomorrow I will paint them. Something I have learned over time---Although the paint dried overnight, it can still be marked by too much handling. Far better to let it set up for three full days before trying to reassemble everything.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (May 2, 2022)

Today was my day to run around to different doctors offices getting lined up for physio, x-rays, meeting with surgeon, yada, yada, yada. Yesterday I spot puttied and primed the engine base and flywheel and painted them. This afternoon I took off the masking tape and paper. I'm happy with the results of my painting.


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## lathe nut (May 3, 2022)

Yes it does, going to be something to see when all back together, thanks for sharing, Joe


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## Brian Rupnow (May 4, 2022)

Hey Joe--I sent you the drawings. Did you receive them okay and could you open them okay?---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (May 4, 2022)

For a first time "Paint everything", I'm pretty pleased with this. There is almost as much work painting everything as there is in machining it. I'm happy with my Canadian maple leaf. I bought a little flag at the five and dime and used it as reference while I hand sketched the same leaf only about 3/4 as large as the one on the flag to make it fit. I wasn't sure enough of my ability to paint it right onto the white base, so I cut out a piece of 0.060" steel and painted it red, then epoxied it onto the base.


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## almega (May 4, 2022)

Very nice. Is that a flat belt pulley out on the outboard end of the flywheel that you could run another piece of equipment with, if you were inclined to do so?


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## Brian Rupnow (May 4, 2022)

Almega---It could be. I have all kinds of pulleys with 3/8" bores kicking around my shop, left over from things I made in the past. I actually stuck it on there to prevent endplay in the crankshaft.


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## Steamchick (May 5, 2022)

Brian, Just had to tick the "like" button. Another successful good looking model! -  WELL DONE SIR!
I guess that is the feed or exhaust pipe coming out of the top valve chest and sweeping down through the base-board? Do you ever expect to try it on steam? - Or is it purely an "Air" engine? (I presume the pipe through to the underside valve chest in the converse exhaust or feed-pipe).
I like the connection. - Proper flanged joints on these models make them a lot more realistic than my nut-and-olive joints, but not so convenient when setting-up for shows. My "Pet-hate" when set-up and people are photographing a table full of models, is that most people arrange their feeds right at the top of the model (for convenience) so the plastic air-feed pipe ends up draped all over the models. (And refuses to lie-down!). More clart making it half tidy than I like. But just a couple of guys add the extra bits of pipe-work so it appears that the "steam" is supplied up through the floor, via a flange-joint on the engine as you have (with a discrete air-feed connection hidden beneath the base). A nice detail.
K2


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## ShopShoe (May 5, 2022)

Brian,


I just have to add that the colors really make this one pop. I like the maple leaf, too.

Thank You for posting,

--ShopShoe


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## Charles Lamont (May 5, 2022)

That shade of blue with red wheels is very traditional. Used a great deal for horse-drawn farm carts and agricultural implements.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 5, 2022)

Okay Guys---We're all finished here. The paint turned out really pretty, my Canadian maple leaf shows up just fine, and the engine runs well. It is mounted in the old wooden base that was built for the Rupnow Engine about ten years ago. There is a degree of "Wonkiness" going on with the flywheel hub, but sometimes that happens with a built up flywheel. I want to take the summer off now, I've built three engines over the past winter, and I'm burned out on machining things. Have a really great summer!!!---Brian


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## Steamchick (May 6, 2022)

Just a big "Thanks!" From me.


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## gartof (May 6, 2022)

Have a great summer Brian.  I for one will miss having one of your engine build adventures to follow. 
Gary


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## ajoeiam (May 7, 2022)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Okay Guys---We're all finished here. The paint turned out really pretty, my Canadian maple leaf shows up just fine, and the engine runs well. It is mounted in the old wooden base that was built for the Rupnow Engine about ten years ago. There is a degree of "Wonkiness" going on with the flywheel hub, but sometimes that happens with a built up flywheel. I want to take the summer off now, I've built three engines over the past winter, and I'm burned out on machining things. Have a really great summer!!!---Brian



Congratulations on the completion!!!

Hopefully you will pop in on occasion just to chat and socialize - - -yes?


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## Brian Rupnow (May 7, 2022)

Thank you for following my posts and for the comments. I am going to try to do something different now.----Staying out of my machine shop for a few months until fall. I have built so many engines over the last ten years, and spent so much time in my shop, that a few months away from my shop might be a good thing for me. I've sat around the house doing nothing for the last few days, and I said to my wife that I don't know what the heck I did with my life before getting into building small engines. I'm not really sure that I can do this, but I'm going to try.----Brian


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## almega (May 8, 2022)

Maybe it would be a good time for a road trip. North America is a big place with a lot to see. You might not have to go that far, 'cause there's a lot to see and do in your region. Anyway, enjoy the summer off as best you can.


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## stanstocker (May 8, 2022)

Hi Brian,

Even doing stuff you like can become a rut if it's taking up most of a life.  I think the Australian term for breaking out of a deep rut is having a walkabout.  Sounds like it's time for one.  I sure need to just go do something completely different from the routine every now and then.  Have a great summer, have some fun.  Grow some crazy hot peppers and a few types of basil and learn to cook Szechuan and Thai style 

Stan


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## ajoeiam (May 9, 2022)

stanstocker said:


> Hi Brian,
> 
> Even doing stuff you like can become a rut if it's taking up most of a life.  I think the Australian term for breaking out of a deep rut is having a walkabout.  Sounds like it's time for one.  I sure need to just go do something completely different from the routine every now and then.  Have a great summer, have some fun.  Grow some crazy hot peppers and a few types of basil and learn to cook Szechuan and Thai style
> 
> Stan



That last part sounds like a plan!!!!!!! 
Dunno if I can take flat out serious heat though!!! (In muh grub yuh know!!)


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