# MY Seadog



## steamer (Jan 21, 2009)

Hi All,

I am in the process of powering up a model tug.  To do that I am building a "Seadog" as sold by Scratchdog Motors and as featured in Model Engine builder.  

1" bore and stroke 4 cycle of a distinctively "Westbury" style.

The engine will be built for RC, and I would like to finish her out in traditional early 1900's flare....bling if you must.

I intend to put a forward/reverse transmission and a centrifical clutch for operation.

There are some changes from the original, some for "use and abuse" sake and some because as the president ( small p ) of my own engine manufacturing company, I get to choose the "Bling" ;D

This is my first IC engine.....but not my first engine....if you know what I mean.

So here's where we are:






Boring and facing the crankcase





Timing case started




Timing case on the block




Setting up to make custom bolts




Filing rest set up for Hex heads on bolts




Hex Heads complete...about 2 minutes per bolt.








boring the timing gear cobore




boring the cam gear cobore




first operation on timing gear cover casting.


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## steamer (Jan 21, 2009)

Second op on cover




Cam gear in place on locating button and positioned for proper mesh.  




Camshaft bore boring fixture with cover in place ready for mounting on the faceplate


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## ksouers (Jan 21, 2009)

Dave,
That's looking great! How long did it take you to get to this point?


Kevin


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## steamer (Jan 21, 2009)

Helping hands.....thanks little girl!




Locating the fixture off the locating button.....next put the cover back on and




Cover bored for outboard bearing and timing cover housing spigot.




Cam tunnel bored.....cover removed first.


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## steamer (Jan 21, 2009)

back crank case cover removed showing 1/4" shaft going thru three ball bearings in three parts.

The cam boring job was a Saturday morning. I would say I have about 30 hours into it so far...with fixtures and such.

There will be a good bit of casting clean up for good looks, but that won't be so bad




The hole where it all happens.....
Dave


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## steamer (Jan 21, 2009)

The tumbler transmission


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## steamer (Jan 21, 2009)

Blingspiration


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## potman (Jan 21, 2009)

Uh Oh !  Another gotta-watch-it-come-to-life.  

Thanks Steamer for taking the time to show us your work.

earl...


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## gmac (Jan 21, 2009)

Steamer;
Thanks for the education - I'm the noob around here - there wasn't a photo here I didn't learn something from! Question - the second photo shows what I initially assumed was the equivalent of a milling plate attached to the faceplate; but then I noticed the holes are thru drilled but not threaded. Can you explain the use of this plate? Why are the holes not tapped?

Later photo's show non-drilled plates (fixtures?) used to attach castings to the faceplate - those appear to be methods of jigging that allow later removal from the faceplate and secondary machining operations to be performed without part removal from the jig. Correct?

All this curiosity stems from sitting around waiting for a back ordered copy of "Workholding in the Lathe" by Tubal Cain to arrive..... :big:

Thanks
Garry


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## Maryak (Jan 21, 2009)

Dave,

That's really nice work you are doing. :bow: :bow: 

Some of your mounting techniques are inspirational. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I reckon its going to be one really special engine and tug boat. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jan 21, 2009)

Thanks guys!....

Gary
The Plate with all the holes in it is just an aluminum plate with a bunch of holes in it :
They are tap drilled for 1/4-20....when I need a hole threaded, I just tap it.....I'm lazy.

It was intended to be sacraficial, but I try not to cut that one....it's handy.

The face plate is 10" diameter and has a 2 1/4-8 spindle nose so the gapping hole at the center makes mounting smallish work problematic. I just mount this little plate on the big face plate for convienence. I have a fist full of small straps and such that help out here.

There happens to be a 1/4-20 hole darn near perfectly centered with respect to the lathe center....which is also convienent.

The non drilled plate is a piece of jig plate from the scrap box. I bored it for a close fit with the crankcase bore using a bushing to create a male spigot on the plate. Now I can mount the fixture where ever I want on the faceplate or mill and have at it, and it won't move around much. I'll hang on to these fixtures until I'm done...then back into the lucky box they go! ;D

These fixture plates are just that.plates..normally I square them up, the second one I didn't, though I may still. They make it easy to float around the machines with different set ups and be able to pick up the work again, especially with a mill vice, and they're simple things to make and use.

That set up took a bit of reading and noodling so that all that could be done in one setting on the lathe ( cover, gear case and block all bored at the same set up to maintain concentricity. ) I wish I could say I thought of it but I think ETW's writtings speak of this set up in many places....its just adapted to my lathe and tooling.

I like faceplate set ups as they are very versitle and quite ridgid once set......though I may be in the minority there.

Bob, I think it will be .....My kids are excited...which is the point of this exercise...My son really likes diesels....this is as close as I think "I" can make.... :
Dave


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## steamer (Jan 21, 2009)

GMAC

When the book comes....fill me in on what I'm doing wrong huh! ;D

We're all learning...even those of us who have been doing it a while.....

Dave


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## gmac (Jan 22, 2009)

Dave;
Thanks for the additional details. As for the book - I'm beginning to find out that this forum is much better than any book.....

Cheers
Garry


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## 90LX_Notch (Jan 22, 2009)

As a newbie, I am awestruck by this project. :bow: Your setups are a real eyeopening experience as how to hold parts on the faceplate.


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## putputman (Jan 22, 2009)

Dave, that has got to be the most engine work I have ever seen done on just a lathe. Looks GREAT.
I am curious about that bolt making setup you have. Can you explain that a little bit? ??? ???


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## kustomkb (Jan 22, 2009)

As others said, real nice fixturing and progress,
Shop looks well equipped too!


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## steamer (Jan 22, 2009)

Thanks guys!

The thing on the tool post is a filing rest and mounts to my AXA tool post and utilizes the dovetail and a micrometer head for height adjustment. These are common on clockmakers lathes.....this one is on steroids and I really like it. 
the indexer on the lathe 




The filing rest attachment





A small hex head bolt like that shown can have the hex cut in a minute or two with a file.
The rollers are hardened drill bushings on spindles with a shoulder. I us a safe edge file.
Works well

As to set ups on the faceplate, thats what makes a faceplate so versitile. A word of caution. BE CAREFULL! 
Turn the work by hand one revolution before starting
Start at low spindle speed
Keep you hands and clothes away!
Don't stand in the path of the plate when you start up the lathe!
Make sure your set up is strapped down tight before you start!
Make sure the faceplate and work are balanced...even just close to balanced....

Do this and life is good......do it not and you may have a big problem! NOTHING throws parts better than a faceplate! ;D

Dave


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## malcolmt (Jan 22, 2009)

Hi Dave welcome aboard.
Lovely work and workholding. One concern..........
The file in the picture DOES have a handle on it doesn't it  

Kind regards

Malcolm


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## putputman (Jan 22, 2009)

Thanks for the explanation Dave. I think you have done a lot of work ahead of time, making tooling and fixtures, to make the process look easy. Looking forward to many more of your secrets & tricks of the trade.


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## steamer (Jan 22, 2009)

Hi Malcolm,

Sorry Malcolm, no it doesn't...but it will.

The good news is the lathe wasn't turning when I used the file.....It was just being an indexing head. 

Putputman,

Yes I have made some tooling for the lathe, I have been working at that for a while, the tooling I make is specific to the kinds of stuff I like to make, not just engines.  I have twin 6 year olds, and time is precious. I take some of that time and make tools that help me be productive....I am just about done with the lathe, I need to make some tool holder and collet racks. Its taken a couple of years to tool and or make tools.....I enjoy the making them as much as using them too! ;D

I have several other specialized tools that I bring to bear....I am sure they will show up as I progress so I won't stray OT now


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## malcolmt (Jan 22, 2009)

Dave 
No apology needed.
You have shown Us some lovely work which is very much what this site is about and i thank you for that. Keep up the great work, PLEASE.

Kind regards

Malcolm


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## steamer (Jan 25, 2009)

Hi All,

Cam shaft today. I made it from stressproof so I can harden it. The main shaft will be soft and I will be loctiting it on to the main shaft. The shaft shown is a cutting arbor.

I am using Ron Chernish's CAMCALC program to create the coordinates for the cams .35 base circle with .075 lift, 120 deg for the intake and 130 for the exhaust, and .675" flank radius
I this photo, I am cutting the intake cam. The zero is the peak of the cam and I have marked 60 degrees either side of this for the cam flanks. The index plate is a 60 count (6 degrees) and this was plenty fine enough







I cut the cam with the side of the cutter as I got better results doing that way. Cutting the exhaust cam was very similar as shown.









Once cut I trimmed up the diameters on the lathe and viola...a cam ready to harden and polish.









I would highly recommend Ron's site and his CAMCALC program. Works Great!

Dave


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## kustomkb (Jan 25, 2009)

Beautiful!

Thanks for the clear explanation ;D


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## steamer (Jan 25, 2009)

:'(

Well.....I screwed up .....
The first cam I made had an index error......strike 1

The second cam I made had no index errors and is pictured above YEAH!

Problem......My co-ordinates were wrong!........anybody want to buy a great looking junk cam?

Strike 2!

.......oh well...third times a charm.........I'll spare you pictures and leave the above as is...

Made up a timing gear collet and bored the gear to match.  I'll post that later.

Dave


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## rake60 (Jan 25, 2009)

Screwed up? ???

Noooooooo
Sometimes you just need to make a couple practice to see what could
go wrong before you make the real part. 

I have LOTS of practice pieces in my recycle box. 

Rick


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## steamer (Jan 25, 2009)

Thanks Rick,

I'll at least have a part to show what it looks like ...sort of .... :

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 25, 2009)

No big deal steamer. I have 2 camshafts for the Peewee. If you hold them next to each other, it looks like there is a mirror between them.

Oopsie


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## steamer (Jan 25, 2009)

It didn't help that I swapped the intake with the exhaust to get the exhuast to the other side of the engine....

It confused the issue...even though that's what I wanted to do....I missed other things.

I have the new spreadsheet with the proper coordinates on it...but got honey do stuff tonight.....

Maybe this week......

Dave


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## steamer (Feb 7, 2009)

Here's some more shots
New Stuff




Collet for cam gear










Hardened( sort of, files skates on it but not too hard) and polished cam.








I found that the method I used to profile the cam as you may understand makes small facets. This make great indicators for when it's being smoothed and polished with a diamod file. You know how much you need to take off and where.







Top case will lifter holes tapped 5/16 -40 and dipstick/breather 3/8-40

More as I go.

Dave


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## Maryak (Feb 7, 2009)

Dave,

Coming along very nicely. :bow:

It's smaller than I imagined - can't think why :

Best Regards
Bob


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## Shopguy (Feb 7, 2009)

Looking good. I like the way you are using a collet to attaching the cam gear to the cam shaft itself.
Regards
Ernie J


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## steamer (Feb 7, 2009)

Bob and Ernie

Thanks for your support! 

She's coming along.  I need to bore for the cylinder spigot and the block is pretty much done.  I am torn between the crank or the head next.....?

Dave


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## steamer (Feb 7, 2009)

Ernie,

The collet is all ETW. I use similar hardware while designing machines and those collets work!
Can't recommend it more.

Check the web out for a product called "Trans-torque" You'll never even think about a setscrew again.

Dave


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## steamer (Feb 8, 2009)

Glad I went through the prints for the head as they're wrong....
Redrew everything and added water cooling to the head too.

Attached a PDF of the cad file.  feel free to comment.

Dave




View attachment Seadog head assembly.pdf


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## steamer (Feb 8, 2009)

A drawing...The head by itself with out the cooling jacket ring.

I am looking for opinions before I start cutting.....

Dave





http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/?action=view&current=SeadogcylinerheadD01-1.jpg


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## Kermit (Feb 8, 2009)

Can't say how nice your work is too many times. I'm sure you never get tired of hearing how much we like your hobby products either.

What type of aluminum is it that you cast with? 1100 pure AL, or one of the alloys?

Kermit


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## steamer (Feb 9, 2009)

Hi Kermit,

Thanks for the support! :bow:

The casting is commercial and I believe the kit ( www.scratchdog.net) is made from A356.

Dave


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## Maryak (Feb 9, 2009)

Dave,

Don't know if it's my version of Acrobat but all I get is the title no nice neat CAD lines ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Feb 9, 2009)

Hi Bob.

Can't see the Jpgs either?

Hmmmmm

Probably a Vista thing......... ...........when is MS dumping this?

Dave


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## Kermit (Feb 9, 2009)

The thing about Vista is - it would proably work great IF everyone else had vista too!
 ;D


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## steamer (Feb 9, 2009)

My computer "Kung fu" isn't good enough to figure this one out..... ;D

I can try to "re-export" the file at a "lesser" MS state of being..... :

Dave


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## Noitoen (Feb 9, 2009)

I use Firefox and although, I have problems with some pages, these are ok. 

Helder


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## steamer (Feb 9, 2009)

OK lets try this.










The bottom one is a section view of the head through the valves.
The bottom one has annotations showing how the water comes in through 3 holes from the barrel, goes around the head and comes out of the head.

I propose to make water passages with a slitting saw and enclose those passages with a ring that is glued on with Loctite.


What say you folk....genius, folly? or something in between......and more importantly, have you a better idea?
 ;D

Constructive criticism welcome!
Dave


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## steamer (Feb 9, 2009)

Hey Bob and gang,

I reposted the print of the head drawing as a link to my photobucket account. ( 5th post this page, below the jpg)

You can click on it and blow it up to get resolution. It is of the head itself without the enclosing ring.

Dave


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## steamer (Feb 15, 2009)

Making progress.....the choice was to make the head





Setting up the head and fixture








Here's the machine set up.....very adaptable




The valve cages in place with the spark plug hole...not tapped yet




Custom reamer for the valve guide.




Time to cut the groove for the water jacket.....









Dave


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## Maryak (Feb 15, 2009)

Dave,

Looking good - Great Head Job :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Paolo (Feb 15, 2009)

A masterpiece..I'm fascinated!!
Best regards...
Paolo


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 15, 2009)

Looking good steamer. Did you decide on a final depth for the water jacket slot?


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## steamer (Feb 15, 2009)

Steve,Paolo, and Bob,

Thanks for the support!  :bow:

Steve, I think I'm going to survey the available slitting saws in the draw...keep you posted... ;D

Dave


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## steamer (Feb 15, 2009)

Steve,

Looking at the part, I see no problem going to .050 thick.  That will be deep enough to keep the loctite out of the groove especially if I add some loctite grooves above and below the jacket......this should be an interesting operation....got to get me a DRO!

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 15, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Steve,
> 
> Looking at the part, I see no problem going to .050 thick.



I was thinking deeper not thicker. None of my business, keep cutting, you are doing an awesome job!!


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## steamer (Feb 15, 2009)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> I was thinking deeper not thicker. None of my business, keep cutting, you are doing an awesome job!!



Only problem with going deeper is I get within the ring of the head bolts....I don't know much about the aluminum, but it is soft, I'm afraid it might distort....with 6/1 compression, I don't think over heating will be an issue...I just want some cooling there as opposed to letting the head fend for itself......

Dave


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## Maryak (Feb 16, 2009)

Dave,

If it looks right and it feels right there's a good chance it is right. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## RonGinger (Feb 16, 2009)

Dave showed some interesting faceplate work back a few pages. We have a fellow in our ME club that was a master of the faceplate- we used to call him Faceplate Rollie.

He had one very interesting fixture for setup. A piece of angle iron, maybe 2" flange about 12 " long. Near one end was mounted a big ball bearing- he favored a Volvo water pump bearing because he has a bunch in his scrap. On that bearing was mounted a threaded arbor made to exactly match his lathe spindle nose. The faceplate screwed onto this arbor.

The angle iron was first clamped in the bench vise so that the faceplate was horizontal. In this position it was eay to arrange things, and setup the clamps, because the plate was nice and flat. He had a rod attached to the angle iron that held an indicator so he could set parts to run true in this horizontal position.

Once everything was mounted and tight he moved the angle iron to make the faceplate vertical- like it will be in the lathe. In this position he added balance weights until the whole load was well balanced. 

Then he would unscrew the faceplate, transfer it to his lathe and make the cut.

Later he bought a nice CNC mill, now everything he does in on the mill.

If you have ever heard of 'Rollies Fathers Method of lathe alignment" this is the same Rollie.


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## steamer (Feb 16, 2009)

Hi Ron,

As you know, I count Rollie as my friend and one of my mentors. He is a very wise and talented guy who always shares his knowledge freely. I am always amazed at the simple solutions he comes up with for seemingly impossible to make parts......He's a real treasure, and is HIGHLY respected for his talent, common sense and knowledge. ( His Bently BR2 has to be seen in action to be appreciated)

Good People, This weekend coming, on Saturday, please come and meet Rollie and the rest of the great bunch of people of the New England Model Engineering Society in Waltham Massachusetts. We are having our annual show. Details are here. www.neme-s.org

Ron is past President and founder, and I am pleased to say one of my friends too.

Ron I do hope your bringing a car load....the kids will be bringing display items this year too! I am sure my son will want to explain his model boat to you. ;D

Dave

ps
I keep meaning to make Rollies faceplate set up fixture....just havn't gotten the "roundtuit" yet........ ;D
Dave


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## steamer (Feb 22, 2009)

Checked with the experts yesterday, they say that the head is not worth the trouble to put water cooling in. It will be cool enough based on contact with the water cooled barrel alone

Saves a bunch of work for me!

Onward!

Dave


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## steamer (Feb 23, 2009)

The head is nearly done

Needed to make a special D bit for the carb mount

The carb is locked in with a cotter, made of brass which needed to be located before the hole was finished. You can see the crescent shaped cut in the brass post in the second photo. Now that it's bored, I'll take that cotter out, shorten the far side .020" and put it back in. The 4-40 nut will clamp the cotter down and lock the carb in position.

....all I'm up for tonight.

Dave


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## Maryak (Feb 24, 2009)

Dave,

Very nice work, coming along a treat. Neat idea for the camlock on the carby. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## chuck foster (Feb 24, 2009)

looking good :bow:

chuck


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## Noitoen (Feb 24, 2009)

That OS carburettor is exactly like the one in my nitro 1:8 Inferno buggy. ;D


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## Mutley (Feb 24, 2009)

Same here, i have one on my OS 30 and V-Spec engines.


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## steamer (Jun 30, 2009)

Hi All!,

I've been a bad boy and spent my time on my boat lately....she's ready to go but the Seadog has languished as a result.

Yesterday I started the breather valve for the crankcase.  I'll get some photo's and post.

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 3, 2010)

I was looking back at some of the old threads and remember watching this one. Where is the old seadog at these days? Is there any progress or is it on the back burner?


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## stevehuckss396 (Oct 24, 2011)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> I was looking back at some of the old threads and remember watching this one. Where is the old seadog at these days? Is there any progress or is it on the back burner?


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## steamer (Oct 24, 2011)

WAY back burner...truth is i kinda lost interest as the castings are real soft.....I have a new engine project brewing though...stay tuned....
Gotta get that pesky SB 9 project done first ......

Dave


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