# Simple Trick for Band Sawing to a Layout



## toolznthings (May 19, 2015)

I found this simple trick I've been doing for years makes sawing to a line much easier when doing work on a band saw. Most kerf  widths vary between 1/16" and 3/32". Knowing what width your blade kerf is draw a parallel line to your layout. Sawing between the two lines is much easier and more accurate. The layout can usually be just " eye balled " and quickly done. Give it a try. 

Sawing thru 1 7/8" thick mild steel .....


----------



## gus (May 19, 2015)

This is good idea and good/smart practice. Saw as close as possible saves machine time.Been trying to do this since day 1 after buy a Makita bandsaw but my sawing on target was way out and practice required.



Do take care of your fingers. I got nicked last year. Put in and observed/followed safe practice.


----------



## barnesrickw (May 19, 2015)

I would like to convert my wood bandsaw to a metal one.  Looks like step one is to slow it down.


----------



## gus (May 19, 2015)

barnesrickw said:


> I would like to convert my wood bandsaw to a metal one.  Looks like step one is to slow it down.



Good Idea. Bimetal Saw will last and stay on track. Bought the cheapy saw and sawing was tough to stay on marked line after a few mild steel cuts.


----------



## toolznthings (May 19, 2015)

Hi,

Not shown I ALWAYS use a scrap of wood for a push block when sawing. Learned the hard way and was lucky !

The saw is a Rockwell 14" that I drive with a 3 phase inverter duty motor and 3 hp VFD. Motor is 1200 rpm and the v-belt sheave on the saw is 11" dia. and about 5" on the motor. The motor can go as slow as 120 rpm with no loss of power on up to 1200 + rpm. The motor has a 10:1 ratio so it can operate at the lower rpm without problems. Speed pot lets me dial down for steel and up for non ferrous materials. With a vari pitch bi-metal blade the saw works great.

Brian


----------



## bazmak (May 19, 2015)

I have a small wood bandsaw.I bought a metal blade and use it for aluminium,
brass and plastics.Speed is good.Just cut 64mm thk alum for my cube
Works well but will avoid steel if i can,but have cut up to 3mm steel plt


----------



## Swifty (May 20, 2015)

toolznthings said:


> Hi,
> 
> Not shown I ALWAYS use a scrap of wood for a push block when sawing. Learned the hard way and was lucky !
> 
> Brian



Good idea, we always had a wood push stick on the bandsaw at work.

Paul.


----------



## barnesrickw (May 20, 2015)

Whenever I have cut any aluminum about an inch or so thick, the blade heats up and bends off track.  I thought speed reduction would also be heat reduction.


----------



## toolznthings (May 20, 2015)

Hi,

Make sure you are using a blade with the proper pitch. To fine a tooth count will make cutting aluminum difficult at best. I run my saw a fast as I can, but I lubricate the blade with DoAll or equivalent stick lube. Actually it is a must to apply every so often as the blade loads up. You are always going to get heat when dry cutting, especially on a long cut through thicker material. I saw some stick lube at Cabin Fever offered my Little Machine Shop. Most everyone has it.

Brian


----------



## bazmak (May 20, 2015)

When i cut thru 65 thk aluminiun i used a little WD40 it seems to work wonders
on alum. also used it on perspex.Use it all the time for tapping


----------



## barnesrickw (May 20, 2015)

Thanks for the tips guys.  Sorry for the thread jacking.


----------



## kiwi2 (May 21, 2015)

Kerosene is a good lubricant for Aluminium.

Alan C.


----------



## gus (May 22, 2015)

Try coating the Bimetal BandSaw with a semi-dry drawing brush with Tapmatic Fluid helps cut down the friction and heat. .


----------



## Blogwitch (May 22, 2015)

I just cut slightly into a beeswax block for lubricating my bimetal blade, doesn't cause slippage on the rubber wheel.

John


----------

