# Lil' Henry Build



## Generatorgus (Jan 5, 2014)

I'm not at all sure why I started building this engine.


Machine work on my Wyvern project is complete and all I have remaining to do is reassemble it and spin the flywheel. If the new carb works it would pretty much complete the project.
And then the doubt thing starts to gear up. What if the carb doesn't work, now what, what if this, what if that? Not an earth shaking dilemma, but I tend to obsess a bit. So I decided to do something else.


Winter is creeping in and I was just getting around to putting summers things away. I decided to run my engines one more time before they went on the shelf.
I had the half scale H. Ford running and my thoughts ran to building a new version, modified somewhat from the original design. Next thing I'm digging around and gathering parts for it.


While rummaging pipe fittings I came on a nice older style 3/8&#8221; brass tee. Half scale would warrant a 1/2&#8221; tee, but I put it with the other parts anyway. After gathering everything I had on hand I started thinking on what other material I might need and went back through the small box I gathered and re-found the 3/8&#8221; tee. What if I try making the engine in a smaller scale?
With pencil and paper in hand I started rough plans for a 1/3 scale version of the engine and now I was off on a new adventure.


As is usually my methodology, after some figuring, I'll make a part and if it looks right I'll then figure out what I need for next part. I never have a complete plan, dimensions and such, just build as you go.
What I had in front of me was the tee fitting, so it went in the mill vise, if it works out I'll try to figure out what to do for the base.


For a casting this fitting was very square, so I chose to hold it with the leg of the tee up. 
The rim and bore were machined using a boring tool, then the fitting turned up and the
procedure repeated. The bore was made to fit a piece of steel aircraft tubing that I deemed would be in the range I needed for the cylinder, although I would have to order it.
I used aircraft tubing on the half scale and it worked out good.







That went well so my attention turned to the next logical part, the base for the tee. The original and my half scale use pipe flanges, but I had nothing on hand and didn't feel like spending any money yet(plenty of opportunities to do that), so I would have to conjure something up.
More rummaging and my attention fell to a partially disassembled 1 1/2&#8221;brass globe valve that I bought for about scrap price, just to get the really nice looking hand wheel, thinking I might use it as a flywheel for a model engine.






I already used the stem as bar stock and the disk was still laying inside (I had to search globe valve terminology to come up with disc). It had most of the features I would need for the flange, so a put it in the lathe chuck and started carving to see if the flange was really there.





After a few minutes of carving [FONT=SimHei, monospace]I[/FONT] decided it would nicely. 











Next in my way of thinking I needed a temporary base to mount the engine and I came up with a piece of yellow pine gleaned from an ancient panel door.
I tend to save wood from things I think may have some use sooner or later, but most eventually get chopped up for kindling. This piece was already in that pile.



I also dug out the hand wheel from the donor valve to see if it was anywhere near right for the flywheel and it looked pretty good visually, but whether or not I could use it is still a question. 








I've used hand wheels (valve handles) for some of my electric models before I had any machine tools and they worked, but they always wobbled. There were also questions as to the weight and circumference to answer, so this would be the next to try to figure out.


Flywheel: full scale recommended 12-14 dia ,10-14#
&#8220; &#8220; my ½ scale (hand wheel) 7&#8221; dia, 2 lb -6oz 
&#8220; &#8220; 1/3 scale (hand wheel) 4 5/8&#8221; dia 7.6 oz.


More than likely too small, but I'll try it because I like it. I can always find another project to use it on.
I originally thought the hand wheel I used on the half scale might be too light. It actual had grip knobs cast into the rim, I thought they looked neat, but after getting bruised several times and then had the running engine go to launch mode when it worked it's way off of the bench, I cut the knobs off and re-machined the rim. The substantial loss of weight didn't seem to make much difference.
In the early stages of that build I had both of the knobbed hand wheels mounted side by side, in an effort to get the weight up.






After machining these simple parts, the build is on.

GUS


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## huntandfish (Jan 6, 2014)

A question about your Wyvern.
I am currently building a Wyvern but I am struggling to undersatand how the cam shaft mount fits under the carank so the gears engage . I think I have machined the bits as per the drawings but it doesnt align. Any chance of a photo of yours with the flywheel off?


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## Generatorgus (Jan 7, 2014)

huntandfish said:


> A question about your Wyvern.
> I am currently building a Wyvern but I am struggling to undersatand how the cam shaft mount fits under the carank so the gears engage . I think I have machined the bits as per the drawings but it doesnt align. Any chance of a photo of yours with the flywheel off?


 
This was my solution. I was able to salvage the bracket, but had to mill clearance on the base. I've seen other ways, too.





The skew gears you use may have be a different size which will effect how you have to modify the bracket.
If my solution will work for you, I would suggest a flathead screw at least on the hole behind the gear. Just not much room there.

If I remember correctly, I had to modify the front end bracket and the rocker arms also.
You can PM me if you have any other questions.

GUS


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## Generatorgus (Jan 10, 2014)

Continuing work on the cylinder assembly.​ 
Although I intended to use steel aircraft tubing for the cylinder, I was happy to find I had a large enough piece of durabar left from another project.
The outside diameter turned to fit the brass tee, and then bored and honed to the chosen .406 I decided on, based mostly on the ID of the tubing I was going to use. 
Also an alum breech plug made, to extend to just about the holes that will be drilled and tapped for the spark plug and valve fittings at the center of the tee. Fitted with an appropriate size o-ring, it will be held in place by a set screw in the rim of the fitting.​ 




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While up front I made a 10-40 thread spark plug, switching from the usual Teflon core to Corian left over from my kitchen counter top.
Shown here with a 5/16-32 I previously made.
I'm a bit surprised with the how much the closeups pics are showing me minor flaws and roughness. 
The picture quality on macro setting is much better than I was getting with my old camera.​ 



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I also made an extension/cradle added on the flange. This was added to close the gap that would have been at the junction of the cylinder and valve fitting holes inside the tee, also it helped to get the cylinder up to match the center line of the engine.​ 
It was an after thought. On my half scale I filled this space with JB weld. If I was inclined to make a do-over I would have plugged the space before boring for the cylinder.
Incidentally the entire assy. is Loctited. 
The mounting holes were also drilled.​ 


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The piston and connecting rod were also made and given a quick leak down test, which was satisfactory.​ 


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A few pics of the conn rod construction.
Pieces of brass rod drilled just enough to accept the 3/16 drill rod and silver soldered.
The rods were left long and cut off after soldering, only to facilitate holding them in place while soldering.
Then milled, drilled and reamed for the wrist and crank pins.​ 


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The alignment of the conn rod ends when soldering is fairly critical and I didn't right on my first try and required a do-over.​ 

Next for the front of the engine would be the valving, which I haven't made any final plans for yet.
The original H. Ford uses an oiler for a fuel tank and a flapper type check valve for the intake valve. When I built the half scale I used a check valve (both types,ball and flapper) and they didn't work very well, and in the end used valve cages inside of brass1/8 pipe els.​ 

I'm hatching a plan to use a 1/4 MPT tee made to look like a check valve, but have a valve cage mounted thru the underside, but in the meantime I'll start making the back end of while I try to figure out the details for the valves​


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## cfellows (Jan 10, 2014)

Hey, Gus, this all looks kind of familiar! I can tell you why you're building it... it will be one of your favorite engines when you're done!

The version I built has a 13/16" bore and I think I used a 3/4" pipe tee. Mine also has a 7 1/4" Don't know how close you are following the original plans. I departed a lot from the original plans.

I just designed a new carburetor which I tried out on it and it works good. 

Are you planning to follow the original plans pretty closel?

Chuck


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## Generatorgus (Jan 11, 2014)

Hi Chuck, I followed your build with great interest, and I liked the ways you departed from the original plan.
I never had plans for the half scale I built, although I tried to stay with the original from what pictures I could find to scale it down. But in the end I had to change the valves and fuel supply in order to make it run right.
That engine was my first and it is my favorite and probably will hold that position. I learned a lot from building it.

My intent is to make this one at least look similar to the original full scale version, but I can't stay with it 100 percent. They are a simple engine with surprising complexities. And yes it will probably be my favorite if I can make it into a good runner. 

You build some very interesting stuff and I follow along as it comes, please keep it coming.


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## vcutajar (Jan 11, 2014)

Following along Gus.

Vince


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## Generatorgus (Jan 16, 2014)

The back end of the engine is a simple U shape two side plates and a bottom plate joined by cap screws. So simple I forgot to take pictures. This is the earliest I took. I already had the holes for the crankshaft bushings and the location for the cam bushing spotted,and checking to make sure I had enough room on the base board.​ 


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Picking the cam gears was easy. Last summer an old friend gifted me some stuff from his shop that he thought would be useful in my model making. Durn right useful, part of it was this little box of treasures. Just the right size for models and there's more than one set of 2:1 ratios in that box, as well as some bevel gears.
I made use of the pair on he left, the 15 and 30 tooth, perfect.
All I had to do was make some arbors.​ 


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For the flywheel, I really wanted to use that hand wheel and I was more intent on that, the gears could wait a bit.
Since of had previous problems with chilled castings I sampled the hub with a file, yeah, right, hard as a brick.
Some times you just can't anneal the hardness out of things , but I hopefully stoked up my already burning wood stove and got it real hot then dropped the wheel in the inferno and put more wood on top. In about ten minutes I enjoyed this pleasing sight.​ 


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I left it where it was and put more wood on and didn't disturb it until the next morning.
I went right to it, even before my breakfast.​ 


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I dusted the fire scale off and file tested the same spot, wonderful, soft, machinable iron.
I wanted to hold it by the inside of the rim to machine it, but the chuck jaws wouldn't fit between the spokes so it ended up in the 4 jaw, centered up best as possible and cleaned up one side of the hub so I could get a good grip on it, then back to the three jaw.
In order to true the rim I would have to cut it, but how to keep it round.
I thought about using a radius milling cutter or even grinding a lathe bit. But I had visions of it flying out of the chuck as they would cause too much friction.
I ended up making a series of light angle cuts with the cross slide set at different angles and blending with a file.
It runs true and still has that nice round rim. ​ 


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To eliminate the square center hole I bored it with an end mill and glued an insert which was bored and a keyway added. Came out looking pretty good. Now I can only to hope it will work.​ 

Crank shaft were components all machined.​ 






Bushings and timing gears added, and all assembled for trial fit up.​ 


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And everything turning smoothly.​ 



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I now have to move on and figure out what I want to do with the valves.

GUS


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 16, 2014)

That flywheel is looking good Gus.  I like how you take something laying around and turning it into something that seems perfectly at home on a model engine.  

I'm also thinking about the coolant container on your Wyvern

Cheers,
Phkil


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## oneKone (Jan 16, 2014)

Awesome work gus. These engines are just so cool! Your doing a bloody impressive job, I'm looking forward at following this build.


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## idahoan (Jan 16, 2014)

Hi Gus

Enjoying your build here and as always your knack for digging through the scrap box and coming up with a gem!

Dave


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## Generatorgus (Jan 17, 2014)

Guys, thanks for the comments and kind words.
I'm not a very accomplished machinist and it's a very steep learning curve for this aging carpenter. 
One thing I've always been fairly good at is reusing salvaged materials, it's in my blood, I can't help it. My wife calls me cheap, I say I'm frugal.;D
GUS


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## Generatorgus (Jan 27, 2014)

For the exhaust valve the original full scale engine used a globe valve converted to use a regular type valve, except that the valve stem extended thru the head of the valve with the spring on top.
I tried and came up with nothing but failures, couldn't get them to seal, and finally (after shelving the project for more than a year) resorted to a valve cage. I can only blame my inexperience at the time for those failures.
I've since gotten a little better at valves, and I favor valve cages, they work well for me. I'm going to try try to incorporate a valve cage in a tee and try to make it look at least similar to the original.​Although the engine, at this point, was running but the oiler fuel tank, with it's drip supply, it had to be in flight refueled, as the little oiler didn't last more than a minute or so and it still didn't run well.

Much later I basically redid the entire cyl. assy. with valve cages, a normal fuel mixer, dumped the oiler and added a fuel tank. Runs fine now, but a fair step away from the original design.
This rendition will have a faux oiler with a mixer incorporated somewhere, but I haven't gotten to figuring out the details yet.


After spending some time at my makeshift drawing board, I came up with something that should work and still look more original.
The intake valve in a ¼ MPT tee should be fairly simple, complicated only by how well I'll be able to handle the small (for me at least) size.
This will be a loctited assembly​ 


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The exhaust has more complications, and I don't think it's a good idea to put the spring on top, but I'll give it a try. It worked for Henry, but for how long?​ 


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I'll start on the easier intake valve.​ 

After making a fixture to hold the fitting castings, using my milling machine. I started by drilling a 1/4 hole all the way thru the leg of the inverted tee then the leg tapped ¼ -40 straight thread​ 



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Next the valve cage was turned, valve stem hole drilled and reamed 3/32, the chamber milled in and the port drilled. ​ 


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The intake valve turned and light spring salvaged from an old battery drill test fitted. Shown here with the valve cage being test fit.​ 



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I made a George Britnell type valve seat cutter and, of course, cut the seat in the cage valve and finished up by lapping the valve in with lapping compound.
 Inserted in the end of a length of plastic tube and submerged in water, the valve past my initial lung powered blow test. Real proof will be tested when I try it in the engine.​ 



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Back at the mill, the fitting casting still in the fixture was rotated in in the mill vise and the holes drilled and milled flat at the bottom to a depth I figured would work for the MTP thread and the intake and exhaust ports milled.​ 



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At about that point I discovered the my plan to tap 1/4 MPT for the close nipples wasn't going to work there was not enough room for the depth the tap needed. I didn't want to start grinding at my new $40 tap to see if it would work as a bottoming tap, and I never saw a bottoming pipe taper tap.​ 

Back at the drawing board I determined the a stub nipple (threaded on one end only), loctited in place should work.​Stub nipples were made and the assembly loctited in place.





Fitted with a threaded cap hex cap and an el made for the faux oiler, another part of this engine complete.​ 



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The faux oiler/mixer will be next, as I'm hesitating on the design of the exhaust valve.​ 

GUS​ 





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## Heffalump (Jan 27, 2014)

I love this! I like the way you're using these fittings, this is inspirational stuff!


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## cfellows (Jan 27, 2014)

Very original, Gus.  I was wondering where you were going to find tee fittings like those used in the original engine.  Never occurred to me to use model pipe fittings.

 Chuck


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 27, 2014)

Looking very good, Gus - I like it


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 27, 2014)

Looks good Gus.  I may try one of these engines next.  I'm following along

Cheers,
Phil


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## motoseeya (Jan 28, 2014)

If you need a bottom  tap for pipe use a elec. tap it cuts even all the way so you can make a bottom tap if you need it. pipe taps cuts on a taper .Thm:


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## Generatorgus (Jan 29, 2014)

Guys, Thanks for the comments.

Chuck, I was thinking about using a check valve from PM research for the exhaust, and just by coincidence, found that Vascon used one for his current build of the 1/2 scale build of the Ford Quadricycle enginine. 
But my fingers couldn't reach that far into my pocket.

Motoseeya, I didn't think of that.

GUS


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## idahoan (Jan 29, 2014)

Nice work on the valve assembly Gus.

 Dave


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## Generatorgus (Feb 4, 2014)

Faux oiler/mixer.​ 

Starting with a length of 3/8 hex stock, the sight glass, threaded center tube and pipe thread nipple were shaped, somewhat modeled after a real size oiler I have. The oil reservoir will only serve as an air passage to the mixer which will be inserted thru the hole where the actual sight glass should be.​ 



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Next a swing type filler hole closer was 'hacked' out of a piece of brass sheet, also a fake hold down nut made. The closeup looks rough under magnification, but doesn't hurt my eyes too bad if I don't look to hard. This closer will act as my air adjuster/ choke.​ 




Then loctited together.​ 



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I made the top and bottom pieces earlier and forgot pics. I also substituted a length of 1/2 copper pipe for the glass. It may be permanent because the only 5/8 oiler glass I've found, seems too thick to work with my design. The top piece is threaded 1/4-40 to hold the oiler together.​ 



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After a bit of thought I started work on the spring loaded the spring loaded valve opening lever, which will only serve to hold the hole closer from moving.​ 



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Here all of the pieces laid out. The knurled piece serves only to cover the the spring hold down nut.​ 



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 10389​ 





The needle valve body is 1/8 dia brass rod, drilled 1/32 partially thru from both ends and finished off with a #75 hole in the middle for the orifice. Seems a bit small to me, but I think it will be OK , if not I'll go a bit bigger, I'm only guessing.
One end threaded 5-48 for the needle holder/adjuster, the other end rounded a bit to accept the fuel tubing.​ 



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The needle is a.024 dia needle which will be silver soldered in the holder.​ 
For the holder, a 3/16dia brass bar drilled thru and tapped 5-48 then knurled and cut to length.
No real plan here, just making parts as I go.
The part that actually holds the needle is 1/8 rod threaded to match, with a .024 hole drilled thru, dimpled slightly at the end to help hold the solder and then cut off about an eighth inch long. The needle was pushed thru to approx. length and left long. This fit is very snug and will hold the needle in place while soldering. After soldering the piece will be threaded in and loctited in the end of the holder.​ 


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Before I committed to the length of the needle, the valve body was loctited into the sight glass and drilled thru at the size of the venturi. Then the needle fitted for length.​ 



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I ended up with quite a few parts for something I didn't think would be this involved.​ 


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Next in line will be the exhaust valve.​ 



GUS​


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## Lawijt (Feb 4, 2014)

Wow Gus , You did already a very nice work. Kee it going on......

 Barry


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 4, 2014)

Fantastic job Gus.  Looks authentic.

Thanks for posting all the pictures of your progress.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Generatorgus (Feb 17, 2014)

Thanks guys, I'm not to far out from getting this engine finished..​ 
Construction of the exhaust valve is similar to the intake, with the exception that the fitting is 5/16-27 and the valve spring is enclosed in a tube on the top.​ 



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The assembly was to be:
Solder stub nipples and blank valve cage in place.
Then, in lathe chuck held by the exposed portion of the valve cage with spring assy blank in place, drill for the diameter for the spring to a depth just short of the bottom of the spring blank.
Then, the most important part, drill and ream thru the spring assy and the valve cage.
Remove spring assy and plunge cut the exhaust chamber in the valve cage with an end mill.​ 

The importance of this &#8220;all in one&#8221; set up should help insure that the alignment of the top and bottom pieces would allow the upper and lower parts of the valve assy. to match concentrically.​ 
That's what I should have done, but for some reason, I removed the piece from the lathe before I milled in the exhaust chamber. I saw no way that the concentricity could be maintained. The entire piece was ruined as far as I was concerned.
Concentricity was key and this problem was one that plagued me way back when I built the half scale model, and this &#8220;son of a ... problem&#8221; was no different.​ 

I finished my day by sulking in the corner while sucking my thumb as well as a couple of brews. The next attempt would be better.
Next day, hope on hope, I decided that as long as I went thru this much trouble, go ahead and finish up, lap the valve in and cross my fingers that maybe the shop gnomes may have made everything OK, kind of like believing in the tooth fairy.
And, just like the tooth fairy thing, my hopes were dashed. Not only was the valve blowing bubbles badly, but there was air leaking out of the set screw that holds the spring in.​ 
The next day I made all new parts and went at it again. This time changing the set screw to a screw with a sealing washer. Everything went well and now the valve was done except for cutting the valve seat and lapping the valves surfaces.
All was well again.​ 



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It wasn't until I installed the valve to the engine that I noticed that the valve was pigeon toed with respect to square alignment. ​ 



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I wasn't sure what caused it at first but I remembered that while silver soldering the valve pieces together something strange happened. When I took the flame away the piece fell out of the Dremel vise I was holding it in. 
It only took a little more thought to realize the nipple must have partially melted and squashed a little while soldering, as I was holding it by squeezing the nipples against the body. 
A fairly easy fix was to mill the nipple out and soft solder a new piece in.​ 

From there I moved on to start making the 1/8&#8221; dia. push rod and it's bushed mounting brackets.
Again departing just a bit from Henry's original design by adding an adjuster to it, also using only 2 brackets instead of 3.​ 



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Right now, I'm at my computer looking out the window at the mountains of plowed snow in my yard it reminds me of Brian's comment, a while back, about snowmegedon, and Phil's pictures of his yard. Phil lives about 70 miles south of me.​ 
This is what I see from here.​ 


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And my backyard, where I had to plow around my well pipe so the repair guys could replace the submersible pump ( it just had to fail 3 days ago after being down there for 30 years or so).
On the right is the remains of my wishing well that was over the pipe, it was frozen into the ground and 
sucumbed to the move. It snowed 6" more since then.​ 


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Now I'm hearing the TV warning of another storm coming tonight. Yeegads!! I'm running out of places to make more mountains and the snow is over my dogs head.
He can't even find a place to poop.
My daily routine has almost become to go out and plow last night's snow, go to bed and do the same thing the next day.
I'm thinking it's time to start shoveling the snow from the roofs, that oughta be fun. 
Old man winter was kind and only dropped an inch last night.
I won't complain when this winter is over.​ 
GUS​


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## Philjoe5 (Feb 17, 2014)

Gus,
The engine is looking good.  I'll see it running soon?

The last winter of this kind was in 1994.  Very unusual to have snow cover here for almost 3 months.  I'm also running out pf places to put it and 2-4" more tonight

Cheers,
Phil


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## cfellows (Feb 17, 2014)

Looks like a piece of jewelry, Gus.  Really nice work!

 I've done that thing where I removed a piece from the lathe prematurely.  Makes me want to kick myself every time. :rant:

 Chuck


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## Heffalump (Feb 17, 2014)

I'm really sorry this is a bit OT,

but Gus - I need to ask you about the spongebob squarebillet...


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 17, 2014)

Top job as usual, Gus. We're back in t-shirts here but I could murder a good snowball fight 


Sent from my iPod touch using Model Engines


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## Generatorgus (Feb 18, 2014)

Hi Phil, In real time the engine is pretty well finished and I'm still waiting on the gear cutters I ordered. The waiting gives me time to deal with the snow. 
My son and I shoveled the snow from part of the shop roof yesterday afternoon. The part we shoveled kind of acts like a catch basin, collecting snow from the steeper pitch roofs on my century old multi additioned shop building. The snow there was near 3' deep.

Chuck, thanks for the comments. I've tried kicking myself, but couldn't reach that high, that's why I suck my thumb.

Dave, t-shirts, lucky you. I'll mail you some snow.

Heffalump, I confess, I like Sponge Bob cartoons and all the silliness that goes with it. It's the only modern day cartoon I like.
I also sit and watch old cartoons and the Three Stooges with my grandkids. I have a Three Stooges calendar in my shop, and also have some little friends I play with.

This is little Patrick. He's an ornery little dude and he's in charge of quality control and job safety.






This is the shop foreman Louie and his secretary Wooder.





This is some of the gang (there are more) having a beach party.
Here Sharky is cooking up some fresh caught people fingers on the grill, while the others have a good time around the fire. Yes, they all have names. 





Sometimes my shop can get a little boring or I may be stumped by a problem or I'll hit a quiet time toward the end of my day. Stopping to play with my dog or my toys is another place to go.
I spend a lot of time there and a little company is a pleasure. 
All that aside, a step away from the realities of life is good, for me at least, and there is still a kid locked up in this old body. 
Be yourself, nobody else can do it for you.
GUS

Oh yeah, the billet.  That's Sponge Bob Block Head.  He's the newest addition, just anther one of my moments.


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## Heffalump (Feb 18, 2014)

Thanks for sharing Gus


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## Generatorgus (Feb 22, 2014)

This is the other, also the real reason, I have the toys on the workbench.









That was yesterday. This my youngest (five years) of four grandkids.
They've all been right here playing over the years, the oldest is 17. It's a wonderful distraction.
For some reason the little guy decided to cover little Patrick with plumbers putty.

On the first picture, on the cabinet door, is a drawing the next youngest granddaughter made.  It's a drawing of me and it says " Poppy, your like superman"  She's 14 now and the drawing has been there quite a while and will stay there as long as I'm still shuffling around in there. 

Oh yeah, they bring me the toys.

GUS


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## Generatorgus (Mar 2, 2014)

This is a small but important item and will be added to my Plan Aheadlist.
The Hall sensor holder/adjuster.
A simple alum configuration that would have fit nicely if I had not put the frame mounting screws dead center.
I made a quick sketch did a few operations and then had the Oh Crap moment when I set it in place. ​ 



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The round head wood screws were in the way. I simply cut around one and replaced the other with a flat head so the moveable part could slide over.
Yeah, plan ahead, maybe.
A simple holder for the sensor connector would complete the job. I liked the holder and made another half dozen more for my existing engines and would have some left for future projects as I really like the Hall system.
The alum. bar on the right is the grounding lug, and is connected to the cylinder base with a long screw.​ 



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Then it was time to set the ignition timing. 
I adjusted the sensor to just under TDC, turned the flywheel a couple turns and the timing was off severely.
Reset it again with the same result and started to get the really big OH CRAP feeling.:fan:
The gears were not right. I miscounted the pinion teeth.
I was wondering why the gears meshed a bit tight, but put it off as a sloppy measurement.​ 

These gears were, by my count, were 15: 30 tooth and I had on hand a pair of 20:40 tooth, but using those would entail building another frame, which was not in my agenda.
I would either have to buy another gear or maybe start thinking gear making
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Making my own was the chosen path, and I got this discussion going on the Questions and Answers page. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f26/gear-cutter-help-22628/​ 

I won't find out how that's going to work out for a bit, until I get the cutters I ordered.​ 

GUS​


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## Generatorgus (Mar 13, 2014)

Still tapping my fingers and waiting for my gear cutters to show up from wherever they should have been shipped from.​ 

Last items will be the timing gear, fuel tank and finally sealing all the pipe connections.​ 

I'm holding off the pipe connections for last as I want to test compression for individual components although the cylinder and piston seem to be where I want them as far as compression is concerned.​ 

That leaves the full tank, which I've decided will be constructed of pipe fittings as I did on my half size H Ford.​ 

The tank base and top where cut from a 1 pipe cap.
In the lathe the cap was faced and then bored to slightly less than the OD of a 1 pipe.​ 



​ 

Then turned around the body and top turned to reveal clean metal. ​ 



​ 

And parted off to form the top.
The remaining piece flipped again, the rim cleaned up and a step cut on the ID to receive the tank bottom which was cut from an iron bar and a temporary fit up made.
I'm liking the effect of leaving the manufactures marks on the top.​ 



​ 


​ 


​ 

On to a bunch of pieces for the pickup tube/check valve parts, made based on a1/4 MPT street el. The check valve will incorporate a 1/16 check ball.​ 



​ 


​ 

A fuel fill and vent pipe also made, the top then drilled and tapped appropriately and finally the assembly Loctited and installed.​ 



​ 

And here it sits waiting for the gear, shown with the also waiting gear blanks.​ 



​ 





Engine now complete except the pinion timing gear and I'm bumping around cleaning the shop and revisiting the Wyvern and a few other open ended real size engine projects.​ 

Gear cutter update, I ordered the gears from CTC on Feb 1.
Today Mar 13, still no cutters. So far my Email to them is unanswered. I'm not very hopeful about this.​ 
GUS​


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 13, 2014)

Gus,
I've checked my records with this vendor.  I ordered my cutters on July 1, 2013 and they arrived on July 11, 2013.  During that time we had traded a few emails about dimensions.  This is the vendor:

http://stores.ebay.com/ctctools/

I hope this can be resolved soon.

Thanks for the update on your project

Cheers,
Phil


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## J. Tranter (Mar 14, 2014)

Does anyone know where to get plans for this?


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## Generatorgus (Mar 15, 2014)

J. Tranter said:


> Does anyone know where to get plans for this?


 
So far there are no real plans for it, just a bunch of sketches and hieroglyphic looking notes. For my half scale, I merely scaled down the size using photos of the full size engine. For this 1/3 scale engine I scaled down the half size.
If someone would offer to do cad drawings and post them in plans forum, I would have no objection at all.
Some time ago there was a fellow in AU that contacted me and started to model the half scale, he did some preliminary work but must have lost interest.
If anyone wants to tackle the project, give me a holler. I'd be happy to scan and send the pages. 


As for the missing gear cutters, it seems I was using the wrong email address. 
I used the address from the info in my Paypal account. When I tried the address for customer service from their website just yesterday, I got this 
reply this morning.

The goods have been shipped 5.Feb as registered postal airmail.The package number is RB324034245HK 

I just checked at www.usps.com. They state "Origin Post is Preparing Shipment". At the Hong Kong Post web site http://app3.hongkongpost.hk/CGI/mt/enquiry.jsp they state "Destination - United States of America The item (RB324034245HK) left Hong Kong for its destination on 6-Feb-2014" 

5.Feb we also had another shipment to a US client RB324034302HK. That one just showed up in the USPS system yesterday. We have enquired the USPS what happens and have been informed that the US Customs randomly pick international packages for inspection and keep them for some time. During that period the shipment is not visible to USPS. Since the other shipment just showed up then I suggest to give it one week. If the shipment still does not show up then we will ship a replacement. Should you end up receiving two packages then we will hold the cost of returning one of them back to Hong Kong 

Best regards
Heine Johst
CTC Tools 



I thank Mr Johst for that quick reply.
So, I'm just going to be patient and see what develops.
I have another little project that needs some attention.













So far unidentified, my wife gave it to me at Christmas. She bought it from a friend of mine who bought it from a scrap yard. It was stuck, carb missing and a few other things.
I disassembled it and put it in the parts cleaner shortly thereafter.
Pretty messy inside, lots of rust.  It surely went through the great hurricane Agnes flood of 1972 that our area suffered.

It should fill the time lapse nicely. 

GUS


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## cfellows (Mar 15, 2014)

That engines looks like a "Bill". Jerry Howell sells plans for a model that looks quite similar...

http://www.model-engine-plans.com/engineplans/combustion/bill.htm?35,16

Chuck

 Edit:  OK, somewhat similar!


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## idahoan (Mar 15, 2014)

Hey Gus

I have been enjoying your work on Lil' Henry, lots of cool stuff here!

The new project looks like a fun one; I don't have any ideal what it is but I'm sure you will make it run.

Dave


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## Generatorgus (Mar 17, 2014)

Chuck, some similar works for me.
Dave, thanks, it's all fun stuff.

Being Lil' Henry is at a dead stand still, I'm going to hijack a page or two of my own thread.

I've been calling this engine 'The Unknown Christmas Present Model' , but being this new project is "some similar" to the 'Bill', I'm going to name it 'The William', at least until I find out what it is.

Here's a few pics of what I found inside after a few months sitting submerged in the sludge at the bottom of my parts washer.
If there are any children present, please have them leave the room.
This ain't real pretty.

























Oddly, the only thing that succumbed during disassembly was the 1.5mm cast iron rings, they crumbled.

I'm not very sure it was a kit, unless it was an 'assemble it yourself' deal.
All enclosed New Departure metric size bearings, except the wrist pin which has a brass bushing.
The three piece crank is kind of neat.
No brainer is the bearings are all shot. Other wise the bore is nice except the bottom inch, which I think will hone out.
About 1 1/8" x 3" B & S, also metric. Flywheel and brass gears all pinned to the shafts.I'm thinking it came from across the pond.

I've opened up a few cans of worms in my time and that's exactly what this is. 
But, what the hell, it was a Christmas present.  I can't stop now. It should prove interesting.


 GUS


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## Generatorgus (Mar 18, 2014)

Still making good use of time waiting for the gear cutters, here's the results of a few hours worth of elbow grease on 'The William'.

















This looks better to me and I'm now confident that 'The William' is very repairable.

Other good news is my gear cutters, finally, got delivered yesterday, which means I have work to do. 

GUS


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 18, 2014)

Gus,
Nice work on the "clean up" project and good luck with the gear making.  Be aware that the numbering convention for the cutters is different than that used in the US.  Use the information engraved on the cutters and you'll be jake

Cheers,
Phil


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## cfellows (Mar 18, 2014)

That cleaned up pretty nice!  How does the crankshaft look?  Can't really tell from the picture.

 Chuck


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## gus (Mar 18, 2014)

Hi GUS,
The old engine looks very new!!!!! Are you planning to get it spinning again.Please post this engine spinning and putt-putting away.


From Another Gus.


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## Generatorgus (Mar 19, 2014)

Other Gus, 
Yes I will get it running, sooner or later, probably next in line. I now have to concentrate on Lil Henry. Have you got anything new planned after you get the Rupnow engine hitting and missing?

Chuck, 
The bearing surfaces held up pretty good, crocus cloth, should be all they need. I've already decided to abandon the enclosed bearings and go with bronze. First factor is the metric sizes and second is cost, (more important to my deep pockets, my free time is free). The crank is a concern, I'm hoping I can get it run true. The throw is trapped inside the connecting rod, which means I will have to reassemble with the rod and bearing in place. Not the best situation. Worst case, I'll make a new conn rod and crankshaft.

Thanks Phil, 
The cutters have the gear tooth range marked on them. I don't anticipate any problems. I opened the package, looked at one of them and set them back on the my work bench.

After the Lil' Henry project stalled, I worked on a few other things, the William for one and started making improvements on my Wyvern.
At this point I proudly can say it is finally a finished project.woohoo1

In the past couple months I've managed to evict the little devil that resides in a lot of the engines we amateurs build. 
I'm walking on clouds, it's running great. I spent most of yesterday looking and grinning while it ran for almost 6 hours, only stopping when I fiddled with the fuel mix trying to get it to run consistently somewhere in the 300 rpm range, 430 was it's best.  It will run for hours like that. 
In my somewhat less than humble opinion, that ain't bad.
You should see it soon in the Finished Projects forum and you can bet I'll bring it to CF, if I don't wear it out by then.
Today if, I can manage to stay away from it, I'll try my hand at the gear for Lil' Henry, maybe.

GUS


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 19, 2014)

Hi Gus,


> Wyvern.
> At this point I proudly can say it is finally a finished project



That's good news.  I know you were having some trouble with reliable running last year.  That's exactly where I'm at now with the Bonzer project.  I had a  few good running days and now it's almost dead.  I hope to see you at Cabin Fever to get your ideas.

Cheers,
Phil


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## gus (Mar 19, 2014)

Please advise nearest airport to fly in. Hopefully I can get to fly in to visit Cabin Fever and talk engines with HMEM folks.


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## gus (Mar 19, 2014)

If I ever fly into Cabin Fever. Look out for a tanned/crew Singapore Chinese with sunglass but no fish in hand walking around the fair asking questions with some Chinese/Kentuckian accent.


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## Generatorgus (Mar 20, 2014)

Gus, it would be nice to meet you and a few others that live way far away.
If you do come just where a t-shirt with a fish on the front. We'll find you.
I'm thinking Harrisburg PA (30 miles or so)would be the closest airport, but that would probably involve a connecting flight from one of the major airports. Philadelphia and Baltimore are not that far away, probably about an hour plus? not quite sure. I think Baltimore is closer.

GUS

Almost forgot, GEARS.  No problem.  I can't wait until I think up a reason to make miter gears.


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## weez (Mar 20, 2014)

Great looking gears.  Were you able to make them on the first try or did it take a few attempts?  I am still trying to decide if I want to purchase gears for my Kerzel Hit and Miss or buy some cutters and make them.


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 20, 2014)

Great looking gears Gus.  Are you sure you JUST got the cutters?;D  Took me a while (Much, much more than 24 hours) before I'd show a picture of mine.:wall:

Cheers,
Phil


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## Generatorgus (Mar 21, 2014)

It was my first try with the cutters, I had two failed attempts a few weeks ago, one with a homemade fly cutter another with a slotting saw and file. Both were disastrous.

Setting the mill up and getting the centerline correct took longer than the 15 cutting passes. I measured the tooth depth and set that on the mill and took the whole tooth in one pass thru both 1/8" thick blanks.

Yeah, I giggled a little after pressing them from the arbor and tested the mesh. I'll be looking forward to trying bevel gears.

Just think, seven weeks and $100 to make two little 15 tooth gears, probably a world record.

Weez, you'll spend the money on the gears and end up with two gears, but with the cutters.....
 You can buy just the two you need or the set of 8.


Give a man a fish, you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, you feed him for a lifetime.


Build a man a fire and you keep him warm for one night. Set a man on fire and you keep him warm for the rest of his life. (I just Binged that) 

GUS


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## wagnmkr (Mar 21, 2014)

Those are good looking gears you made Gus. What is the designation of the set you got ... Module# or  ??

I am close to getting a set since everything I want to build needs gears.

Cheers,

Tom


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## Generatorgus (Mar 23, 2014)

Hi Tom, the cutters you need will depend on the size of the gears you need for your project, most importantly , the distance between centerlines.
I had the luxury of making that distance to work with the gears I had I hand, or at least the gears I thought I had. I matched the gears in a Boston gear catalogue and used that as my guide to get the PDs.

But it's a bit more complicated, see this thread I started a while ago.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f26/gear-cutter-help-22628/

There is some good advise in there.

This is the set I bought:

http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/Categories

This will give you the breakdown of the cutters, by the range of teeth needed for the gears you need, in that set.

http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/Det...er=http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/Categories

The module I used is M1.

I hope this helps, if your confused as I still am (just a little), there are others that can help more. 

GUS


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## wagnmkr (Mar 23, 2014)

Thanks for the info Gus. I ordered a set of the M1 cutters. They should do what I need for the engines I want to work on. I do have Ivan Law's book and am trying to work through that, and I will continue to research.

Thanks Again

Tom


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## gus (Mar 23, 2014)

wagnmkr said:


> Thanks for the info Gus. I ordered a set of the M1 cutters. They should do what I need for the engines I want to work on. I do have Ivan Law's book and am trying to work through that, and I will continue to research.
> 
> Thanks Again
> 
> Tom



Hi Tom,

No worries.

You have GeneratorGus and The Other (Singapore) Gus to back you up on gear cutting.
There are 8 cutters per Metric Module Size. Not been able to find this vital info in Ivan Law's book. Find Metric Gear Modules easier to understand and absorb. 

All success in your gear cutting. ( My latest gear cutting been disastrous with worm gear hobbing with spiral tap. Got 71 teeth instead of the 72 T I was planning for.)

The Other Gus.


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 23, 2014)

> Got 71 teeth instead of the 72 T I was planning for



Gus, that's only an error of 1%.  Plenty of folks (weather forecasters, politicians, economists etc.) make a very good living makings errors much larger than that.

Cheers,
Phil


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## gus (Mar 24, 2014)

Philjoe5 said:


> Gus, that's only an error of 1%.  Plenty of folks (weather forecasters, politicians, economists etc.) make a very good living makings errors much larger than that.
> 
> Cheers,
> Phil



Gus will make a bad politician. Will find a 72 t gear or make a 72t dividing plate to cut 72 gashes as per Ivan Law's method so as to hob/hope/dream of successfully hobbing 72t worm wheel.


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## Generatorgus (Mar 25, 2014)

OK Singapore Gus, you've peaked my curiosity.  What are you going to do with worm gears?  Or is it a surprise?

Making worm gears doesn't seem like it would be very simple.  I hope your taking pictures.

GUS


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## gus (Mar 25, 2014)

Generatorgus said:


> OK Singapore Gus, you've peaked my curiosity.  What are you going to do with worm gears?  Or is it a surprise?
> 
> Making worm gears doesn't seem like it would be very simple.  I hope your taking pictures.
> 
> GUS



Hi Gus,

Was visiting a good friend/ex-pressure vessel supplier in Malaysia. Happened to see some hollow sections lying around and asked for a 4 x 4 Hollow Section and 4 x 4 x 3/8 m.s. plate. Some months back came across a very good looking 4'' RT. Could not resist building it.

Hobbed worm gear with 12mm spiral tap.I thought I could get away w/o cutting 72 gashes/notches to get 72t but ended up with the odd 71.Idea came from Youtube which made it so easy. RT made with DIY worm gear.
 See fotos. For details please view my post on 4'' RT. RT far from completion as it was a distraction from finishing up the Rupnow H&M.


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## Generatorgus (Mar 26, 2014)

Happy RT builder Gus,
I just got done reading your thread.
Pretty gutsy adventure with nice results.
GUS


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## gus (Mar 26, 2014)

Generatorgus said:


> Happy RT builder Gus,
> I just got done reading your thread.
> Pretty gutsy adventure with nice results.
> GUS



Hi Gus,
Thanks for reading my RT post. Made a few forgivable goofs buy ended up happy except for the 71t worm gear which I can use for simple dividing.
The sanding and polishing took too much time. But I have another show piece on my Computer Desk.Still playing with it while watching YouTube and my boss is quite amused.''Gus and his latest DIY Toy.'' An understanding and supportive wife is a heavenly gift.


Best Regards,
The Other Gus.


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