# Dake Steam Engine



## JorgensenSteam (Aug 22, 2010)

I am creating a separate thread for the Dake Steam engine.


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## bearcar1 (Aug 22, 2010)

Well that is pretty slick. Reminiscent of a Wankel in a peculiar way. Thanks for the information and back round on the Dake engines, Pat. I'd definitely like to see a set of drawings, just to scour over for days on end if nothing else. How large did these engines get to be as far as HP and size? Too bad they did not become more popular. The one page in that drawing states that they "are suited for high speed applications" such as pumps and ventilation usages. interesting. 

BC1
Jim


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## fltenwheeler (Aug 23, 2010)

JorgensenSteam  said:
			
		

> The Dake article I wrote as well as full CAD drawings have been uploaded to the "Downloads" section of this forum.



Thank You

Tim


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## zeeprogrammer (Aug 23, 2010)

Very interesting Pat.
Thanks for posting this.


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## SAM in LA (Aug 23, 2010)

Pat,

Awesome package you put together for the Dake engine.

It is a very interesting design.

I, and I'm sure many others, really appreciate all of the effort that you are putting into documenting your fathers work.

Keep up the good work.

Regards,

SAM


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## gbritnell (Aug 23, 2010)

I built one many years ago from plans that were published in Live Steam magazine. It was very picky about lubrication because of the sliding parts. It's kind of like a Scotch yoke affair with on square 'piston' sliding inside another. Mine would run sometimes quite well and other times hardly at all.
gbritnell


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## GordTopps (Aug 23, 2010)

Thanks for uploading this Pat

Very interesting

Regards
Gordy


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## lastpatriot (Sep 20, 2010)

JorgensenSteam  said:
			
		

> Bob J. modeled the Dake from these pages of an old Audel's book that he had.
> I did a full writeup and CAD drawings on the Dake a while back, and sent it to a publisher out west, he has been sitting on them ever since (quite frustrating).
> Had I known about this board, I would have put it all here in the plans section.
> If the publisher does not get off dead-center pretty soon, he will loose his opportunity, and I will upload it all to the plans section.
> ...


If it's a grey cast iron it is weldable, the trick is not the filler metal, I've successfully welded grey cast numerous times.
I've used E7018, 308 stainless, and nickel rods, nickel is very expensive.
Preheat the entire part to a dull red, run your pass, chip/peen/brush your passes, heat to dull red again, bury it in a bucket of dry sand, or I've even used dirt & gravel cause it was convenient. Wait a few hours or until you can stick your hand in there and it feels barely warm, then your done.
The main problem with welding cast is the filler metal wants to shrink / cool faster than the cast.
That's why some perfer nickel rod as it doesn't shrink as much as other metals.
When the filler shrinks too fast it developes a crack along the side or toe of the weld (where it meets the cast).
Preheating keeps the cast from pulling the heat from the weld causing it to shrink (build up stress) and pull away from the cast.
Peening the passes relieves the weld stresses, keep it hot if it's going to take awhile to fill it up.
Post heating and slow cooling controls the shrinkage and greatly reduces the stresses.
Years ago I had a couple of long time welders bring me a flat head engine head to weld up it was cracked from the middle of the diameter of a cylinder (underside of the head) to and up the side, and across the top to the water inlet port (thermostat). I used two rosebuds to heat it, welded it with 308 stainless, peening in between passes, post heated it, buried it in dirt/gravel.
They had it machined, and it worked fine there after.
A couple of points I should mension, first thing I did was to stop drill the crack, and vee it out. Second the dirt where I live (the desert) is more like dust and drier than a popcorn fart, don't use moist soil as it will suck the heat out too fast.


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