# My First Glow Plug Engine



## gus (Aug 28, 2012)

Hi Guys,

After getting over cold feet and procrastination I have decided to plunge in.

Your expert advice required so that I can avoid the pitfalls/quagmire and throw nothing into the scrap bin.


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## Jasonb (Aug 28, 2012)

Its a nice little engine to build Gus.

Have a look at my build on ME site and just ask if you have any questions.

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=70308

Don't bore the crankcase out to 30mm like the text, stick to the drawing and also make sure you get the wall thicknesses correct using the 28.2mm size.

The crankshaft drawing is a bit hard to see where the couple of 0.2mm dimensions are taken from so best to look at the drawings on teh web and blow them up good and large.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/glenn.royds/RCM&E/

See my comment in the sparkplug thread.

J


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## gus (Aug 28, 2012)

Hi Jason,
Thanks for the kind tips. While considering to post,I had no idea a Guru would appear to give me good guidance.
Your workmanship is fantastically of very high standard.You must be a vet Tool&Die Maker.

Too bad,I have gone ahead and finished the crankcase and about to turn the bush. Been scratching my head on
draft work instructions to turn the cylinder housing.Same will be done using your fotos.The Model Engineer Magazine presumed readers who go into making this engine do have sufficient experience.For Gus it is a learning curve.So far so good with no contribution to the scrap bin.If I get to complete and run engine,I plan to do it all over again building same engine or another model.Thanks for the tips-----very useful.Come at the right time when I turn cylinder housing.

Gus from faraway Singapore.


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## gus (Aug 30, 2012)

Got started and made some near fatal mistakes.
Attached is the WIP. Running gear taking shape.Pardon the finishing as Gus has poor showmanship.


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## SilverSanJuan (Aug 31, 2012)

Looks like your off to a great start Gus.

Todd


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## rhitee93 (Aug 31, 2012)

Looking good Gus


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## gus (Sep 1, 2012)

SilverSanJuan said:


> Looks like your off to a great start Gus.
> 
> Todd



Hi Todd.

Most of the parts require some skills which I can ever dreamed I could do it.
The Crankshaft with its intake port was scary and while milling the port hole I got worried. See Crankshaft. Tapping oil helps improve surface finish when turning shaft. A few dabs of Tapmatic Tapping Oil when dieing the shaft thread gave me good looking threads too.


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## gus (Sep 1, 2012)

Jasonb said:


> Its a nice little engine to build Gus.
> 
> Have a look at my build on ME site and just ask if you have any questions.
> 
> ...



Hi Jason

I am faithfully reading all your slides. Your Crankshaft slides certainlyhelp to write ISO 9002 Work Instructions to turn shaft and mill the port with the 
timing angle.Sorry.I could not erase ISO from my brains as I went thru hell to get plant certified.
Will also make a jig to turn and drill the hole for the crankpin.
W/o same jig,I have fear that crankpin may not run true.Misalignment could ruin the piston rod.
This engine building sure gave new experience and new skills.
Thanks Again.


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## Anko (Sep 6, 2012)

Hey Gus you engine is looking great!

Make a build post on the "work in progress" subforum so we can follow your build! I will be looking forward

Saludos


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## gus (Sep 7, 2012)

Hi Anko,
As requested.I am posting some fotos.
When you have mini lathe and mini mill and limited tools,it is tough.
Used WW ll centering on four jaw chuck with scriber block and eyeball.
Coolant if required is by manual brush on. Tapmatic Oil used for tapping serves well to give smooth finish.
It is Friday Afternoon.Will take weekend break-----fishing.


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## gus (Sep 7, 2012)

Latest.
Multi-pass surface milling wilth a small endmill plus handfeed is killing Gus.
Flycutter required badly.Cost a bomb to buy.Delivery from overseas suppliers will take 10 days.
Went ahead to make one using a hex bolt. 3/4' Hex Bolt was a gift from a fishing buddy.
See fotos.With flycutter,I do it in one pass.


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## gus (Sep 14, 2012)

OK .The engine is getting closer to completion.Cylinder liner done and fitted in.
Next to turn CI piston.

Make DIY honing tools for piston and liner.Your 2 cents worth is welcome.

Tomorrow is week fishing.Sat'd n Sun'd.


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## Jasonb (Sep 14, 2012)

You are making good progress there Gus.

J


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## digiex-chris (Sep 14, 2012)

That thing is gorgeous! I've been looking for a good "from scratch" glow engine to build since I've done all these worn out glow engine re-lines and I've convinced myself I can make a liner/piston fit properly. I don't subscribe to the magazine, is there somewhere I can buy the plans? Or, what issue is the magazine so I can buy a reprint?

regarding piston/liner fit tools, I find it easier to lap a slight taper into the liner, and keep lapping till the piston fit, rather than fitting the piston to a perfectly cylindrical liner. A little tight is good, when it's run in it'll be just as it should be. A bonus is the lapping the liner takes care of surface finish and burrs from cutting the ports. With the slight (0.0002" over 1" distance) taper, I could easily see when I was close without going too far. I'll see if I can dig up my liner lapping tool and take some pics. I just lap my pistons by hand using a chunk of flat aluminum.

How did you hold the liner to cut the ports? I've been doing it on a mandrel on a rotary table, but would love to see other options.


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## digiex-chris (Sep 14, 2012)

nevermind on the magazine number, I looked on the first post and it's right on the cover! I wonder if they'll ship one to Canada...

Does that one issue have everything you need articles and drawings wise to build it?


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## Jasonb (Sep 14, 2012)

Chris, all the plans are on the net and I have done a build thread on ME forum which shows all my setups and a bit of cosmetic work. Its spread over 5 or 6 issues.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/glenn.royds/RCM&E/

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=70308

J


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## digiex-chris (Sep 16, 2012)

fantastic! I can't wait to get started! Gotta order some steel for the liner. I have a pile of 6061 kicking around, would that be good enough for the block?

I've started with the carb, since I need a carb for another commercial engine I'm making a liner for at the moment and carbs had scared me for a while with the figuring out how to time when to change the mixture curve to get the low end mixture correct, but it looks like there's no allowance for a different mixture at idle on this carb at all! I like that! Considering many fliers don't even know there's a low end adjustment on their carbs, I don't think this will prove detrimental.

I've gone through the whole carb except successfully making the fuel nipple. Broken every drill near 1mm that I have trying to go 19mm deep. It was late at night, I should have realized I should be going half from each end and not go deeper than the drill flutes.


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## Jasonb (Sep 16, 2012)

The alloy for the block is not too critical, just the HE15 for the conrod.

You could drill most of the nipple larger and just the end 1.0mm

J


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## digiex-chris (Sep 16, 2012)

Great idea! 

How critical is that hole since the restriction is the needle further up the fuel line? My next closest drill size I have is 0.045" (1.1mm)


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## Jasonb (Sep 16, 2012)

That should be OK

J


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## gus (Sep 16, 2012)

Jasonb said:


> The alloy for the block is not too critical, just the HE15 for the conrod.
> 
> You could drill most of the nipple larger and just the end 1.0mm
> 
> J



That's exactly what I did.Gus been breaking 0.5----1.0 mm drill bits until he got to sly,cunning and smart.Ha Ha. The fuel nipple was so exotic,just cannot send it to the scrap pile.

Thanks for the kind advice. Will take sweet time to finish up the engine.

Best regards ,Gus.


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## gus (Sep 16, 2012)

After a nail biting 2 hour session,got the transfer/exhaust ports millled.Ports are in alignment with barrel cylinder.
Nothing went to the scrap bin.Will move on the evening to make Jason-b's adjustable cylinder honing tool.
Have scrutinised other honing tool but none as sure-fired as Jason's.
Jason help.  The honing sleeve .Is it made of aluminium???


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## Jasonb (Sep 17, 2012)

Yes its aluminium, also have a look at Ramons thread for some more details.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist...sel-5cc-version-17674/index11.html#post186302


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## gus (Sep 17, 2012)

Thanks. Got it. The grooves for easy expansion and the sleeve split.

Thanks again Guru.

Picking up the lapping paste tomorrow.Make the honing tool.All this hard work to get the engine
up and running first time.


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## gus (Sep 18, 2012)

My Cheapy DIY cylinder honing tool done. Happy with initial honing finish and went on to "Colgate" for final hone.
Sorry.I have no "Sunnen" Honing Machine so no cross hatch hone finishing.

The Die threading was done with "Tapmatic" Tapping Oil and thread finishing was good smooth thread.

Thanks You. Jason for the expert advise. Used Aluminium bar to make adjustable hone head.

Also plan to make a piston hone device.Got this from "AMI" UK Magazine December 2008.Will post foto.

See fotos.


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## digiex-chris (Sep 18, 2012)

good stuff...I like that hone design a lot better than mine. Do you hold it by hand or in the tailstock?


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## Jasonb (Sep 18, 2012)

Lap held in the lathe chuck and hold the liner by hand, that way you don't distort the liner with the chuck jaws.






J


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## digiex-chris (Sep 18, 2012)

yesh that's hard on the fingers! I'd previously been making a fake cylinder that slides over it (not the full length just the top 1/4 or so) and a fake cylinder head to clamp the rim out of some 1.5" square bar. This time I just lapped when the cylinder was in the boring setup, then did everything else after


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## digiex-chris (Sep 18, 2012)

actually now that I think about it, why not use the actual real cylinder, and clamp it in with a fake cylinder head with a big hole in it? that way any distortion from clamping forces gets honed out.


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## Cogsy (Sep 18, 2012)

digiex-chris said:


> actually now that I think about it, why not use the actual real cylinder, and clamp it in with a fake cylinder head with a big hole in it? that way any distortion from clamping forces gets honed out.


 
I have heard of something like this, way back in the old days when I was into big performance V8's. The top speed shops would torque down large slabs of steel to the correct tension in place of the heads, then bore/hone the cylinders (through the bottom I assume). Supposedly their is some slight distortion of the block when the heads are on, so this ensured perfectly round bores when the engine was assembled.

I'm going to file your suggestion away for future use. Thanks.


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## gus (Sep 18, 2012)

digiex-chris said:


> good stuff...I like that hone design a lot better than mine. Do you hold it by hand or in the tailstock?



Still messing around by hand to get the feel of it.You are right .Its tough on the hands. Will put in the slow spindle speed drive today to chuck clamp cylinder.


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## gus (Sep 18, 2012)

Jasonb said:


> Lap held in the lathe chuck and hold the liner by hand, that way you don't distort the liner with the chuck jaws.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Thanks. 
Will monkey,monkey today.Then go on to cut piston to size plus one thou and hone to fit. Will post good of bad results.Total green horn in honing.

My honing knowhow is all verbal. To the vendors I am the expert. Till today I am still wondering why "Sunnen" Honing Machine is the preferred machine.

Went to China to audit cylinder hone shops.Honing machines were home made.Took a long time to get them to import honing machines.

In India,I saw low speed drills used to drive honing tool.Results not best!!!

Valve lapping was a joke.No body could tell me best flatness they could achieve. Also took me along time to get them to buy Japanese flat lens and
black lights.


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## gus (Sep 19, 2012)

During my apprentice days,I was known as the"hacksaw monster".I break saw blades.Can never cut straight.

OK.When you have a balcony to site your machineshop.There is no space to put in a mechanical saw and so back 
to humble China hacksaw.Did not do too bad with sawing of a piece from stock bar.C.I. is easier to cut than M.S.

Today not a bad day,completed piston to hone both piston and liner.Left behind wee bitty too much on piston O.D. Was tough to fit in cylinder.OK .Cylinder is slightly tapered for good compression.Hand honing is no joke.My  hand are blistered.

OK. Expertise seeked. Duralmin is not available. On hand I have Brass/M.S. Square Bars. Please advise best alternative. Plan to keep engine for display or give away after successful startup/spin.


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## gus (Sep 19, 2012)

Hi to all my Gurus,

This is the first time I do real honing and get good results.
From here ,will move to complete the compression engine with honed cylinder and piston.Bolero was started
building in 2008.Chickened out as I have no prior hone experience .See fotos.Looks like i.c.engine population is 
growing.


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## gus (Sep 21, 2012)

*Carburetor Needle Valve Body*

Above was small and intricate.Took a good three hours to complete,would have taken longer if slit saw was
not used to cut to size from a 3/4" square bar.The 1.2 diameter fuel passage was drilled carefully with regular
retraction for chip clearance and Tapmatic Oil application.Drill breakage will mean going to scrap bin.
See attached fotos.Valve body with O.S.Needle 24081970 installed and piped.


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## gus (Sep 24, 2012)

At last completed but  some minor reworks before spinning.


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## digiex-chris (Sep 24, 2012)

I made one of those carbs to use on another engine (same displacement). I discovered I could get a lot more RPM out of the engine by increasing the carb throat to 7.5mm but then became picky about needing muffler pressure in the fuel tank. You may want to try a few different sizes if it's an engine to put on a plane.


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## gus (Sep 24, 2012)

digiex-chris said:


> I made one of those carbs to use on another engine (same displacement). I discovered I could get a lot more RPM out of the engine by increasing the carb throat to 7.5mm but then became picky about needing muffler pressure in the fuel tank. You may want to try a few different sizes if it's an engine to put on a plane.




Thanks for the good advice. After successful spin ,engine goes into collection display.Right now its on the printer. Very happpy I got it completed.
Looking backward,Glad I persisted with its too many challenges and skill requirement.Jigs had to be made.Honing tools. Its true measure twice,cut once.
Jotting down diameter reduction after every pass certainly helped avoid getting wrong OD or ID.
The last time I spinned an engine was 50 years ago while in Polytechnic.Will post video of engine spinning,if I get it going.


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## petertha (Sep 24, 2012)

gus said:


> ....Cylinder is slightly tapered for good compression..


 
Hi Gus. Can you elaborate on your tapered honing procedure? I am assuming the top of the sleeve is slightly smaller diameter than bottom so the piston pinches near TDC? So is the sleeve first put on on the tapered hone, then hone chucked, then progressively pull sleeve back towards the tailstock until taper sized (ie tailstock end of hone is larger diameter than headstock end diameter?).

The picture almost looks like you are inserting the sleeve on the hone & pushing into headstock direction. Hopefully my dumb question makes sense. See pic.


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## Jasonb (Sep 25, 2012)

Peter have a read through my build that I linked to in the second post of this thread and particularly Ramons reply about lapping on the second page and also his thread on teh racers that I link to somewhere here.

The lap is parallel and most of the lapping done from the bottom end but occasionally reversed so the liner does not get too tapered. The piston is later lapped to the liner from the bottom which also takes a fraction more out of the bottom of the liner.

The idea is that the piston can move more freely below the ports but as it rises above them and you want compression it tightens up a fraction. When running the top end will expand a little due to heat in the combustion chamber which the slight taper also counters.

J


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## gus (Sep 25, 2012)

Jasonb said:


> Peter have a read through my build that I linked to in the second post of this thread and particularly Ramons reply about lapping on the second page and also his thread on teh racers that I link to somewhere here.
> 
> The lap is parallel and most of the lapping done from the bottom end but occasionally reversed so the liner does not get too tapered. The piston is later lapped to the liner from the bottom which also takes a fraction more out of the bottom of the liner.
> 
> ...



Hi Jason,

This where I goofed.Got excited.By the time I fit the piston ,the top sleeve was not slightly tapered. Now have to make new sleeve and piston and hone again.Must get it right.
Please reconfirm."If compression is insufficient,engine won't run".
Please advise best fuel for easy starting.


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## Jasonb (Sep 26, 2012)

Gus if like me yours will spend its life sitting on a shelf then the lack of a taper will not be a problem, so long as you have some compression then it should run. I would try it with what you have and if it won't run then make new. The taper is really not even measurable you should just feel that the piston is a little harder to hove at the top of the stroke maybe 0.0005" difference on dia.

As for fuel any 5% nitro RC ruel should do, the stuff I used had been sitting in my shed for over 20years so was a bit stale but still got just over 8000rpm out of it.

J


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## gus (Sep 26, 2012)

Jasonb said:


> Gus if like me yours will spend its life sitting on a shelf then the lack of a taper will not be a problem, so long as you have some compression then it should run. I would try it with what you have and if it won't run then make new. The taper is really not even measurable you should just feel that the piston is a little harder to hove at the top of the stroke maybe 0.0005" difference on dia.
> 
> As for fuel any 5% nitro RC ruel should do, the stuff I used had been sitting in my shed for over 20years so was a bit stale but still got just over 8000rpm out of it.
> 
> J



Thanks. Jason.Taking a short break before I jump in again.

Just open up the Outer head of an OS Engine to take a peek.
Also trying the piston as it past the port holes before reaching TDC.Monkey see.Monkey do. Will get it going.

Sat'd nite fishing for good size Red Snappers.Now preparing jigs.
Will be fun.


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## gus (Sep 26, 2012)

gus said:


> Thanks. Jason.Taking a short break before I jump in again.
> 
> Just open up the Outer head of an OS Engine to take a peek.
> Also trying the piston as it past the port holes before reaching TDC.Monkey see.Monkey do. Will get it going.
> ...



Jason
Just went out to the balcony double check. Fuel has methanol and nitromethane and castor oil.Please confirm.
Will also try out on an OS glow plug engine.


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## Cogsy (Sep 26, 2012)

gus said:


> Jason
> Just went out to the balcony double check. Fuel has methanol and nitromethane and castor oil.Please confirm.
> Will also try out on an OS glow plug engine.


 
That's perfect fuel for glow engines Gus. The percentage of nitromethane should be marked, but it doesn't really matter if you're not going to be using this engine in a plane. My first (purchased) plane engine was run-in with no nitro at all, then switched to 15%. My second engine was run-in on 15% nitro straight away.

Castor oil can leave a bit of residue compared to synthetic, but again, it doesn't matter much if the engine isn't used much, it just may feel a bit 'gluggy' and take a bit of turning over (by hand) to free up if left for a few weeks or months.

Good luck, hope to see a video.


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## Jasonb (Sep 26, 2012)

That fuel sounds fine, just run the engine for short periods at first on a rich mixture and do't let it get too hot until its had time to bed in.

J


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## gus (Sep 26, 2012)

Thanks for the tips.  After the weekend nite fishing,I am all set to solve the mystery why it just won't start and run. Gone thru many of these incidents with huge air compressors.


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## Ramon (Sep 26, 2012)

Hi Gus, I have been quietly following and enjoying your thread from the outset. I have not commented before as you have been in the good hands of Jason but if you are experiencing starting problems with your engine perhaps I can help.

Although I have operated diesels over a longer period starting glows quickly and positively became an absolute priority whilst flying control line aerobatic models (competitively that is - just one minute to start the engine, walk to the centre, pick up the handle and take off)

Firstly, though Glow motors will start with much lower compression than Diesels a reasonable piston/liner seal is still required. The kind of engine you have made will easily run on straight fuel ie 80% methanol and 20% oil. The addition of a small amount of nitro - around 5% will improve matters slightly but there really should be no need to go beyond this. Apart from the odd high revving racing engine owned I have never felt the need to go over 5% for aerobatic motors eg OS 35S , Super tigre G21/46 etc.

Assuming you are starting by hand the prop should be around 12 - 13 inch diameter for the first runs preferably with a fine pitch - 4-5". Too small a prop will mean much harder flicking required.

Technique - Fuel the tank and, if you are right handed have the prop at 'ten past eight' position as the engine comes on to compression or 'ten to four' if left handed.
Without the plug connected place a finger over the choke and turn the prop over to draw the fuel through to the carb. Prime the engine by squirting a small amount of neat fuel into the carb and flick the engine over to get the engine 'wet'. This is a 'feel' thing which you will soon become aware of. Connect up the plug and grasping the prop blade very firmly in your hand slowly bring it up to compression. If everything is right in there you will feel a positive knock on the prop as the fuel ignites against the piston - Don't worry it will not fire and start but this is an excellent indicator that it is about too. Back the prop off a little then give it a real _good_ flick over compression when it should fire quite readily.

If you can't get a 'knock' it will mean one of two/three things -
1 There is not enough fuel through the engine ie it's not wet enough - repeat the procedure with a little more prime

2 It's too wet and you have flooded it. Disconnect the plug and close the needle and flick it over to expel the residual fuel.

3? Well check your battery and the plug! - the glow needs to be a nice bright orange at the minimum (sometimes not quite achievable with single cell nicad battery starters - some plugs are 2volt and others 1.5 which can restrict the glow on a nicad if the former) and should be visible through the exhaust port reflecting on the piston/liner wall. A small ammeter in circuit, though not essential, gives a good indication of plug condition in operation and will soon tell you if you have flooded it.


If you are using an electric starter I'm afraid I'm not much help - I have never ever used one in all my time messing with these wonderful little power houses. Just be careful you don't take the engine into a flooded situation and keep on with the starter. You could easily damage your work particularly the con rod

Hope this helps some. Congratulatons on your build, you have made a fine job of it. I hope it starts and runs as well as it looks.

Regards - Ramon


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## gus (Sep 26, 2012)

Hi Ramon,
Thanks for the expert advice.
The last engine I started was 55 years ago.
Doing some reverse engineering. Now trying to get a genuine bought off OS 10LA Glow Plug Engine started. The problem is Gus.Now reading your instructions plus OS instructions.Charging
the glow plug battery. Will keep you posted.

Thanks again.This forum is very helpful.


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## waynes world (Sep 26, 2012)

Jasonb said:


> That fuel sounds fine, just run the engine for short periods at first on a rich mixture and do't let it get too hot until its had time to bed in.
> 
> J


wrong about the heat all nitro engines need heat cycling to get the metals up to there working tempreture range they will be running at for the life of it if its going in a model.

the rich mix is right as nitro has a cooling efect with combustion temps also the more nitro you run the better they behave etc igniton more reliable at lower rpm. so you can leave it unning as long as you like after all you have a prop mounted on it for running. make it 4 stroke on rich needle.


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## gus (Sep 26, 2012)

Hi Jason & Ramon

Got it. Got the bought out OS Max 10LA Glow Plug Engine started and running.This time tried not to be a smart guy.Read and comprehend OS instructions alphabet by alphabet & word by word.
Tonite will practice starting again.
Suspect I have crankcase air leak.My DIY engine did not prime well compare with OS Engine.


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## petertha (Sep 27, 2012)

gus said:


> Suspect I have crankcase air leak.My DIY engine did not prime well compare with OS Engine.


 
Some suggestions (these are more related to erratic running but might be something to check if you are not having good fuel draw).

- check for air leak bypass between carb body throat & crankcase hole. You will notice most all commercial RC glow engines have some sort of seal, usually a silicone O-ring & tight fit. 

- general rule is center of fuel tank level should be about center of carb venturi port. If tank is too low, you require greater venturi suction to lift hydrostatic head of fuel. So if it starts on prime & then leans out & sputters, that could be why.

- assume you have pressure nipple of muffler attached to 2nd (air) tank line & everything unplugged/unobstructed. This line gives slight pressure oost to tank & assists fuel delivery to carb.

- check any air bypass in needle valve assembly. If you (mouth) blow into fuel line with needle valve fully open it should make a small hiss coming out the venturi hole. Many commercial engines use a nylon packer or little o-ring to ensure no air bleeds into fuel delivery & needle valve stays put under runing conditions.

Good luck!


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## Jasonb (Sep 27, 2012)

waynes world said:


> wrong about the heat all nitro engines need heat cycling to get the metals up to there working tempreture range they will be running at for the life of it if its going in a model.
> 
> the rich mix is right as nitro has a cooling efect with combustion temps also the more nitro you run the better they behave etc igniton more reliable at lower rpm. so you can leave it unning as long as you like after all you have a prop mounted on it for running. make it 4 stroke on rich needle.


 
These are the words from my Guru which I am following, I'm sure he will not mind me repeating them here, also remember these are not ball raced engines and don't have rings so the metal to metal needs bedding in.

"_I would say the 7" pitch is a bit coarse for initial bench run's - it's always better to lightly load an engine - 4 or 5" pitch - keeping the revs up on a rich-ish mixture (for the cast in steel piston liner set up) but not allowing the head to get too hot - just about bearable with the bare fingers."_

_"When I began with these things so many years ago it was the norm to fit a relatively large (diameter) prop and run them slobberingly rich to run them in. It was much later that the method of lighter loads, run fairly fast on a slightly rich setting, and, most importantly, not allowing things to get hot became the accepted method. Short runs of 2-3mins gradually increasing the duration but allowing the engine to cool between runs is preferable too. As  the running in progresses the needle setting can be slowly decreased letting the revs increase gradually run to run."_

_"On the bench there's only the prop-wash to keep things cool unlike in the air"_

_J_


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## gus (Sep 27, 2012)

Hi Jason,Ramon.
Started/Ran OS 10LA engine three more times  and making observations to monkey see/monkey.
Now have all the confidence to rework and start/run my DIY engine.Suspect leaky crankcase cover and the cylinder barrel .Compression seems OK by feeling.

As a young 18 year old kid,it was amazing how I managed to get a compression engine hand started and flew.Took two weeks of sheer determination.Nodel Electric starter was not yet invented in 1960.
Now as a 69 year old man,I used electric starter to start run OS engine. 

From here hopefully,Gus will look forward to build more I.C. Engines. After this engine,please advise next engine to build for collection.May build one more of same engine to practice and aquire skills and the patience.


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## Jasonb (Sep 27, 2012)

Gus, there is a diesel version of the Firefly on you-tube that uses most of the same parts you could do that as a second project, maybe Ramon could suggest details of the contra piston and other mods that would be needed.

J

PS I used an electric starter on mine too, its what I'm used to having run 1/8th scale off road and helicopters.

J


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## AussieJimG (Sep 27, 2012)

Gus, you are a legend! I just love your posts. Keep up the good work.

Jim


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## Jasonb (Sep 27, 2012)

Just been reading on Model Engine News that Alex Whitaker has a new design that he is working on so maybe you could try that Gus?

http://modelenginenews.org/ed.2012.09.html

J


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## gus (Sep 27, 2012)

AussieJimG said:


> Gus, you are a legend! I just love your posts. Keep up the good work.
> 
> Jim



Thanks Jim for the appreciation and encouragement.

Honestly,after giving my last part time job(7years) as Tech Consultant to a Chinese Compressor Plant,I had to find something to pass my idle time,if not Gus will rot away physically/mentally.Over the last 20 months I went into three projects which demanded patience more than skills and time.
I thought the mini tractor was easy as the magazine says followed by a steam engine which I fell in love ----must build and last this Glow Plug Engine.

When I arrived in China,they were struggling to build 5 compresors per day.When I left they were building 60 PET Compressors per day. As of mid 2011 they stop listening and past quality problems came back.Time for Gus to go.Incidently the ex-boss called and wants Gus back in China.Ha Ha Ha.


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## gus (Sep 27, 2012)

Jasonb said:


> Just been reading on Model Engine News that Alex Whitaker has a new design that he is working on so maybe you could try that Gus?
> 
> http://modelenginenews.org/ed.2012.09.html
> 
> J



Jason,

Good Idea. Will keep me busy. This time Gus will take his time,no rush,no date line but as usual as completion gets near I get over-excited and problems comes in. 

Will do some minor rework to enable Firefly start/run and go on build another
to polish my skill.


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## gus (Sep 28, 2012)

Did minor reworks to eliminate leaks.Fuel delivery to carb improved but not as good as the OS 10LA.
Spun engine, was about to get engine started and running,handheld electric starter packed shop.Came back with new starter.Now bad to worse.Crankshaft/bush leaking oil badly.Fuel delivery compromised.

Too many fixes bad for Gus and Engine.
Decided to take a month break.Go Melbourne visit my grandchildren in Glenhuntly.Eat some good Sydney oysters.Go "Vlado for a juicy steak.Enjoy walking around Victoria Market and picking up the 2pm bargains.

Engine now a show piece on my computer desk.
Will build new engine ,all over again.This time seriously take Alex Whittaker's good advice on the "Key Fits" on the essential items.

The next Thread will titled "My Second Glow Plug Engine.
Thanks for support,encouragement and expert advice.
Its been a good two months' work.


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## Jasonb (Sep 28, 2012)

Yse you need to lap teh crankshaft to the bearing and also lap teh barrel into the carb.

J


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## AussieJimG (Sep 28, 2012)

I hope you enjoy your holiday Gus. When you return, we will still be here to follow your next build.

You mention Melbourne and Sydney. If you are coming to Canberra, drop in and have a chat.

Jim


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## gus (Oct 2, 2012)

Before keeping engine as non-operational collection display on my PC Desk,have decided to knock up an engine
test stand to have engine and ancillary properly fixed in place. 
Time spent was entire morning.
Now after posting,will go over meet the fishy friends to listen to their lastest catch. Beware most fishos are liars
including Gus,they blow up their catch for fotos.
Later in the evening to do final start.This time no loose items to watch.

Expert advice welcome.Carb inlet and Needle valve outlet now same level to avoid excessive fuel into carb or drain off carb.
Hopefully by 6pm I report good news.


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## gus (Oct 2, 2012)

AussieJimG said:


> I hope you enjoy your holiday Gus. When you return, we will still be here to follow your next build.
> 
> You mention Melbourne and Sydney. If you are coming to Canberra, drop in and have a chat.
> 
> Jim



Would drop by if my numerous relatives release me.Would be great to chat with Jim who share common interest. I have two bosses to visit,one in Yarra and one in Bandanoon.One will buy dinner and I buy lunch for the other.These were my great bosses.Bandanoon took me off the street and the other compensated me very well for my retrenchement.So money .No worries.
Will make it somehow next trip.


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## petertha (Oct 2, 2012)

Personally, I still think your tank is positioned quite low relative to the venturi outlet (I assume the upper line). Your muffler must provide lots of back pressure to boost or 'lift fuel up hill' to this position (hydrostatic head) & it will only do that at relatively high rpm. Even when you get it running with the right needle valve setting like this, it will go lean as the fuel depletes so be careful of overheating.


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## gus (Oct 2, 2012)

petertha said:


> Personally, I still think your tank is positioned quite low relative to the venturi outlet (I assume the upper line). Your muffler must provide lots of back pressure to boost or 'lift fuel up hill' to this position (hydrostatic head) & it will only do that at relatively high rpm. Even when you get it running with the right needle valve setting like this, it will go lean as the fuel depletes so be careful of overheating.



Hi Peter.

Thanks for the prompt & good advice.

Hank crank priming brought fuel to carb inlet but drop back.Raised fuel tank height as advised,fuel now remained primed and fuel flow seems to be steady. Engine did make false start,tried few more rounds with futile results.
Suspect compression insufficient.Compression may be a notch below minimum quantum.Looks engine will be on static display on my P.C. desk.
Taking a break into Thailand and over to Melbourne and Sydney for three weeks.
Will most likely make new engine all over again since I bought enough material to build three engines.This time will be smarter with the fits and honing to ensure I get good compression and crankcase vacuum.

I have a 3/4 done miniature compression diesel engine.Will finish up piston,con rod and carb.This is practice honing sleeve and piston to compression fit. Honestly my honing skill is not good.

Looking forward to this weekend fishing now the SW monsoon over and good weather window for two months and Monday 8 Oct to Thailand.


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## gus (Oct 2, 2012)

Jasonb said:


> Yse you need to lap teh crankshaft to the bearing and also lap teh barrel into the carb.
> 
> J



Hi Jason,

This where I goofed. May be good reason why Chinese Engines are not as good as Japanese. The Firefly is not very forgiving with the the critical fits.

Will make new engine.I bought material enough to build three engines.

Taking a break from Monday 8 Oct for a week and thereafter to Melbourne and Sydney. November is another trip to Nanjing,China.My ex-China boss wants to see me and he is pay for travel,food and hotel.Gus is too old to take back his old job--------Tech Consultant,Air Compressors.


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## gus (Dec 2, 2012)

Saw this article in the latest Model Engineers' Workshop.
Time to upgrade and move over to an improved version of my World !  QCToolPost.See other foto.

Calling all Gurus,your expert advise required to make this QCTPost.
Foto attached.


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## kf2qd (Dec 2, 2012)

I have been involved in building a few .60 sized engines. I built mine and got it running, and helped some students I was working with get theirs running. Made the crank out of 4140HT and the bearing out of a 6061-T6 aluminum block. The block was reamed and the crank was polished with fine emery cloth. When the fit was right they ran great. When the fit was bad...

Should be able to see mine to the left here.


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