# BAZMAK-Diary of a Myford super 7b lathe restoration



## bazmak (Sep 26, 2018)

Well after selling my 3 myford ml7s I bought a super 7b long bed with the proceeds and decided to start a new thread.With the clutch assy/countershaft and the gearbox there will be a lot more work and I intend to spent more time and effort with this one.Lathe arrived yesterday and I have made a start.According to the seller the paintwork is bad but is supposed to be a good runner.We will wait and see.The leadscrew was described as worn at the headstock end and it is ,so I invisage cutting the leadscrew and reversing as well as fitting thrust bearings.Anyone out there have experience of this please comment.I cut the main drive belt so I could strip down easier and keep the countershaft/clutch and the headstock as sub assemblies rather than have lots of bits at this early,very dirty stage.Will fit a new V belt or link belt.I had a liter of near Myford green but did not like it
and as I have used all the grey decided to go as near as I can to Myford blue.Made a new pair of riser blocks to my standard design but used 75x50 rhs instead of 50 sq. looks more in proportion


----------



## goldstar31 (Sep 26, 2018)

'Morning, Barry!

Initially, I hope that the restoration challenge will be met and overcome.
Whilst I have not 'reversed' my Super 7 leadscrew , I recall others doing it. Again, I recall Martin Cleeve- pegging the thing.  So I can comment that 'mine' is joined to the gearbox.  It doesn't run right through.
As you have a long bed model, reversing it will not unduly affect its use. I think that you will rarely use the full lenght.

Yours seems to be a Mark2 as mine has the earlier sight glass and the different clutch.  Wicks for the Mark 2 are still available from RDG but-- nothing for mine.

Again, you will have a different casing to cover the 2 speed belt.   I expect that you know all this, anyway.

As for paint, I settled for the RAL Iron Grey which is 'near' the Myford grey.

Going back to 'mine', I stripped it down and filled the jet wash up with detergent and blasted all the years of gunge and loose paint away and spent £250 on getting it slideways ground and having the underneath of the saddle built up with Turcite.  Again, I blasted the gunge etc away and filled the missing paint work initially with an odd mixture of polyester car bodge and a bit of fibreglass resin and then brought it all up with car body green professional filler.  Earlier, I did a City and Guilds course in Motor Vehicle Restoration so it was all very straightforward. As far as the other bits like the top slide, I can scrape but would mention that a Super7 has a different spilt gib compared to the ML7. It's actually nicer to do and then adjust. What I did find was that the top where the tool holder goes was  badly worn. I did mine in a surface grinder but  it is fairly easy to scrape flat after you break the cast iron 'skin' which comes with age.

Perhaps, I've gone a bit over the top with mine but Super7's are being reconditioned and sold by RDG at £2995 and then a gear box 'chines in' for an additional -say- £450. All this does not include even a chuck , faceplate or centre.

It does make the whole project worthwhile or not because I was offered a Murad Bormilathe for a modest £550 and a Murad Antarctica for only £300.  I 'm not strong enough to manhandle them any more and again, I'm limited with car insurance to no more than 2000 miles a year.

So Keep posting, you have my full attention

Norm


----------



## bazmak (Sep 26, 2018)

Thanks for your comments and info Norm. much appreciated.I have had super 7s before including a b but have never taken them apart
Had a couple of tricky moments where the s7 differs from the ml7.Finding out of way grubscrews buried under the gunge.This one is the later
model where the leadscrew goes thru the gearbox. Quick check only revealed one bad point so far.The alum gearbox cover has been broken
but well repaired with a plate and a no of screw fixings.Will try to improve it when I eventually get there.The inside of the gearbox is pristine
but most are as the can handle a lot abuse with the hardened gears.I didn't want a long bed but had little choice and as you say the short bed
is hard enough to handle by oneself.Just been cleaning and painting the bed and I can just about manage it. Like to get it clean and tidy
even if not finished painted before checking and cleaning the ways etc.Managed to get a suitable blue paint off the shelf in the local hardware shop
both as a litre tin for brushing and a spray can for a better finish on the main areas. This one is really gunked up even though it has been oiled thru the
nipples rather than greased. Lots of gunk and brass chips inside the casting. Keep posting. Regards Barry


----------



## 69002 (Sep 27, 2018)

Go for it Barry and keep us posted of your progress, I shall be following avidly as I have also just acquired  a mk1 super 7b that is in a worser state than yours...but at least my gearbox casing is all intact.


----------



## goldstar31 (Sep 27, 2018)

69002, I've got a Mark1 with a box too.
If you follow the plot-well, mine,- I had mine slideways ground and the very rough underside of the saddle built up again with Turcite. The cost for those items was £250 but simply having the lathe bed top done was probably no more than £50. Of course, this means that it leaves a lot of extra fettling but at least one has a perfectly flat surface on which to make a guide to do the Number 1 shear.  Again, it is worth looking at the Number4 shear which despite all the other wear has remained unworn. You CAN  utilise the number 4 to move away from the designed 'narrow guide'  principle as there is a likelihood of wear at this point.
Myford, I understand changed away from the narrow guide idea in later lathes!

Does this help?

Norm


----------



## Nick Hulme (Sep 28, 2018)

You just have to love that bed casting with it's depth and rigidity, shame they didn't use the same dimensions for the short ones ;-)


----------



## bazmak (Sep 30, 2018)

I assumed the bed casting was the same but a foot longer therefore being less rigid. Are you saying that the long bed castings
were beefed up to lessen the risk of twist.It does feel much heavier.Can you clarify your comment please Nick. Also could not figure out
how to do a full stripdown on the gearbox.The large front selector lever when the spline shaft is removed cannot be removed
without taking out the idler gear and I could not see an obviose way to do it.Made do with a part strip down all internals were in
pristine condition so just gave it a clean up.Just meant I coulnt repaint the inside of the gearbox,so not a problem. Incidently
what sort of oil level is recommended for the sump


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 1, 2018)

The gearbox manual and the lathe manual are both available on the 'net.

What I would mention is that the headstock bearing recommended oil is NUTO32 whivh laughingly is nothing more than what goes into hydraulic jacks- namely ISO32.

Barry, I DID check with the blenders!

My gearbox was different. It had been run on mahogany dust instead old good old straight SAE30

I'll leave the swear words out

Norm

Incidentally an old mate of 91 has pointed out that he has a new book on  gearboxes with an emphasis on Myford's boxes. Looks like golddust and he says there is a whole new series of model engineering books just been printed in the UK.

I'm going to be busy reading them

Bye for now

N


----------



## redhunter350 (Oct 1, 2018)

Hi Barry, I have a pretty much identical machine purchased new around 1977, mine has the power cross feed as well. Regarding the bed casting I am sure they are considerably beefed up on the long bed, the casting is deeper thus keeping the stiffness and rigidity of a standard bed.
One thing I would consider if you decide to cut the lead screw and reverse it I have often thought it would be good to have a shear pin built into the feed and it could be incorporated in how ever you decide to re-join the two parts.  I also have an Emco super 11 and this has a shear pin made from soft aluminium in the lead screw to prevent damage should an error be made.
John


----------



## bazmak (Oct 1, 2018)

Thanks Norm and John for your input. I have finished the gearbox and successfully reversed the leadscrew.Just going out to finish now and pin it
will fit a shear pin as you suggest,will be interesting.Will post shortly Regards barry


----------



## bazmak (Oct 2, 2018)

Latest progress.I wont bore you with the general clean and paint refurb. With the gearbox the leadscrew goes right thru
and uses the 25mm thk walls as the bearings for the leadscrew ,no bushes.Cant understand why Myford.I realise there wont be much wear
but when there is there are no bushes to replace.However I digress.I cut the leadscrew so that the joint falls central bearing area of the front gearbox wall. About 12mm per side.I then reversed the leadscrew and machined the tailstock end to 12mm dia threaded m12 and bushed the brkt also 12mm
I then made and fitted housings for 12mm thrust bearings.I went up from 7/16" bsf to m12  because it was simpler.I was going to buy a new m12 nyloc nut but finished up running a tap thru the existing nut.Go figure,i then found a 7/17bsf die that I did not know I had. Or well,a non std super 7
I machined the ends of the leadscrew at the headstock end and drilled and tapped m8 ,fitting an M8 stud to screw the parts together.Made a new 19mm dia collar/spacer to conn ect together. I then pinned the joint with 2.5mm roll pins and pinned the collar to the leadscrew with a 2.5mm dia soft iron rivet.Goes together well,works well and looks good.Next job is to refurb the the broken end door backplate


----------



## redhunter350 (Oct 2, 2018)

Hi Barry looking good but I would consider alloy for the shear pin, I think steel / iron may be too strong. Better too weak in the event of an error.
I was going to add a photo of the shear pin for the Emco but failed ! guess you have to make an album on the site first ???
However it is soft alloy, I made some from alloy large rivets, only ever needed one when I ran into the bed stop while screw cutting and the Emco suppliers price was ???*** Anyway they are 5/32 dia with a head of 3/16 the head stays in the outer collar and the pin passes about two thirds + through the lead screw. The head is slightly knurled to facilitate easy insertion and removal.

One last point and please take this the right way -- I notice you did not appear to use a rear remote steady when turning your lead screw on the bench lathe -- makes me shudder ! Believe me that bar could bend at even modest speeds and the result can be devastating and cause serious injury. PLEASE use a steady I know first hand from a personal tragedy what the consequences can be.
John


----------



## redhunter350 (Oct 2, 2018)

Hopefully these are the photos ?
View media item 1438View media item 1437


----------



## bazmak (Oct 2, 2018)

Thanks for your input John. No need for a rear steady it was very stable at low speeds and I have had plenty of experience
I remember parting off short spacers of copper tube.When it goes it goes and it went as it throws out its a quick slide to madness
all the way to 90o fortunately I was well clear and it was years ago with a larger Chinese lathe.No damage apart from the tube                                                   but it gave me quite a scare
The 3/4" leadscrew was very stable but I did keep a close eye


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 3, 2018)

deleted


----------



## bazmak (Oct 4, 2018)

Just spent a couple of days,improving the repair to the badly broken end door support plate
It had been repaired rather robustly with 10 n0 m6 nuts and bolts.The screw hds prevent the cover seating correctly
I assume someone had overtightened the rear fixing screw  without the 6mm spacer between the cover and the headstock
The ideal way would be a new cover or alum welding but I decided to make do with what I had.Much improved looks
not perfect but most of it is hidden so will make do for now


----------



## bazmak (Oct 5, 2018)

Bit more done,time consuming part is waiting for paint to dry so I do a few things inbetween so things might look a little mish-mash
Finished and assembled the drive from spindle to leadscrew and the main spindle with a new belt.Apart from the broken cover
everything looks goods.Just starting fitting the carriage and polishing up the ways with wet/dry. Lots of play so I replaced the 15thou shims
with 10thou and its almost there. I get everything cleaned and painted first,get it near and the fine tune the fit and paint later


----------



## bazmak (Oct 9, 2018)

Almost finished.Just waiting for the paint to dry on the motor and then we will have first power up
I must say it was easier than I expected and much quicker than I thought.3 weeks so far and looking good
When I cut off the main drive belt it measured 800lg but is supposed to be 750mm lg so I bought at 750
and it was way too short so had to replace with 800mm long. Any comments ? Its nice to see the pile of dirty sub assy's reduce
and the finished assy get heavier. Fitted my 6" myford chuck that I kept from the ml7s then first job is to machine up a backplate to suit my
4" range of Chinese chucks.Tailstock and guard to finish off then I can finess the paint finish and slides etc


----------



## DJP (Oct 10, 2018)

Remind me... is this  keeper for your use or a restoration for sale? I have the identical lathe and I know that they are priced higher than equivalent older lathes so maybe a good business venture to rebuild and sell. Mine is still in very good condition and used for my projects so don't get any ideas. It's not available.

Nice restoration and the blue colour suits the machine better than gray.


----------



## bazmak (Oct 10, 2018)

Im a retired engineer and do it more for fun rather than the money.Obviously a very low hourly rate
I did 3 no ML7s and made enough to buy this at a good price so what you see is a freeby.Havent made
up my mind what to do with it.I did want a super 7b but not the long bed so will wait and see.If something else suitable becomes available
I might buy another and sell this. Love Myfords.Had a near mint ML7R in the UK as pictured and like a fool sold it


----------



## Nick Hulme (Oct 10, 2018)

bazmak said:


> I assumed the bed casting was the same but a foot longer therefore being less rigid. Are you saying that the long bed castings
> were beefed up to lessen the risk of twist.It does feel much heavier.Can you clarify your comment please Nick.



Apologies for the delay, yes, the casting is deeper, with a Long Bed with it's feet on a flat surface you can't get your fingers under it


----------



## bazmak (Oct 11, 2018)

Almost finished ,just the tailstock to clean up and maybe fit the guard.Ready to make chips first job
is an adaptor plate to fit my Chinese range of chucks.Then I want to try screwcutting.Will hopefully make
some BSF studding as I found myself short of bolts when reasembling


----------



## bazmak (Oct 11, 2018)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjKywi-z4tA


----------



## bazmak (Oct 12, 2018)

Made chips and got the lathe dirty.I machined up a backplate to fit my range of Chinese chucks
Bit deja vu and a little boring but basically a repeat of the 3 no ML7s.Works well just on the little trolley
so I now need to lift in position on the bench and bolt down before running a check and adjust a few things
Last job is to finish off the tailstock,then maybe do some screwcutting to try out the gearbox
Must admit I am pleased and surprised how quick and easy it all went. Like the blue


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 12, 2018)

I like the 7"  tee slotted faceplate especially. I keep promising myself that I will add 4 plates to one of my very ordinary standard Myford ones.  It's not my idea but one of Martin Cleeve's. 

Question, please?  Have you the two Myford steadies?

Best wishes

Norm


----------



## Nick Hulme (Oct 12, 2018)

Make up a lead screw shield, mine has the inclined flat plate style to stop chips and dirt in the cutting area falling on the lead screw. 

 - Nick


----------



## bazmak (Oct 12, 2018)

Hi Norm,of all the myfords I have had into double figures I have never had steadies.Never really had the need for one
I think I once rigged up something just as a one off.
Nick I intend to to make a lead screw cover.I saw an interesting one using a thk rubber matt to cover the ways and the leadscrew
which fitted to the saddle and slid under the chuck as you approached.I looked at some 6mm thk rubber I have but its too stiff
will play about when I get it set on the bench.Not looking forward to it,lifting on my lonesome,i managed the ml7 but this is way heavier
Might have to ask a neirbor for help. Once its on the bench in my little shed its difficult to access around the back ,I want to ensure
everything is finished before I move it


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 12, 2018)

Obviously, the workings of one with another will be different.
In the distant past, I made bits for my wife , now deceased regarding  her musical hobbies i.e, clarinets, saxophones. oboes, flutes etc and these, should a repair be required, will not go into the narrow bore of a Myford.
Again, Northumbrian small pipes( I mean bagpipes,  need steadies whilst boring something like 1/8th bore and amost 19 inches in length.   On this sort of thing, i had to make and inline boring bar to bore a 1inch dead and another hole 1.003" over about 20 inches- parallel bores on my Quorn-- and screwcut a truncated threaded micrometer end on one 1" PGMS bar. 

So thinking 'steadies' is  quite normal for me.


----------



## DJP (Oct 12, 2018)

I agree with Goldstar. A Steady Rest is essential even though it isn't used often. If you find a fixed steady rest for the Myford S7 , I would grab it.


----------



## bazmak (Oct 12, 2018)

I only said that of all the Myfords I have bought I have never got the steadies with any of them
If I would have had the chance I would have been pleased to have them. With model engineering
I have never had the need and as you say they get very little use but are essential when you need them


----------



## bazmak (Oct 14, 2018)

Well I managed to manhandle the lathe into my small shed.Not positioned or bolted down yet
Have started a few minor mods/tweeks etc but nothing interesting.I have just made a way/leadscrew cover
fron 3mm rubber the idea which I saw somewhere.Will see how it goes when I start making chips
Just finishing the tailstock and when that's in posn I can bolt down the lathe with the bed hard to the wall
so I can have max room at the headstock end.Would have preferred a std bed but I cant see any need to remove the tailstock
as there is plenty of room to store it at end of the long bed


----------



## DJP (Oct 14, 2018)

My Super 7 has the Myford style chucks without adapter plate so that it can run in the space before the ways begin. Your rubber folding sheet would interfere especially with the 4 jaw and a big work piece. The extended jaws would make a mess of your rubber. I have no additional protection for the lead screw and no issues so far however my machine does have a small cover plate attached to the cross slide that covers the lead screw in the area where the cutter is working and throwing chips. It seems to work well enough and I clean the screw threads with a paint brush after each use.

For a test open the jaws fully and see if the rubber survives.


----------



## BaronJ (Oct 14, 2018)

Hi Barry, Guys,

I'm claiming the rights for the use of a flexible silicon rubber sheet for way and lead screw protection. 
Don't forget to squirt some oil underneath.

I've been using this technique for several years now, and whist I agree that there are occasions when the chuck jaws rub against the rubber, upto the other day I haven't had any problems.

I use a couple of powerful magnets to secure the rubber under the chuck, and whilst cleaning with a paint brush managed to stick the paintbrush to the far side magnet pulling it and the rubber sheet off.  Of course it tore right across the brass bar clamping it to the saddle.  No real problem, its now an inch shorter   At least till I can get another sheet.  Normally I use a circular plastic brush for cleaning.


----------



## bazmak (Oct 14, 2018)

Thank you both for your comments. I acknowledge your rights to the idea Baron I knew I had seen it somewhere
and filed it away.I also see the future problems.I have used 3mm rubber floor matting and for most lathwork with say collets and 4" chucks
there should be no problem with it getting caught up in the chuck. Using it with care should enable me to establish an ideal length
and maybe overcome any problems. I can also make 2 or different lengths and make them quick change. Only time and use will tell
The rubber mat is sitting on the ways so I can smear with oil.Will keep posted


----------



## BaronJ (Oct 15, 2018)

Hi Barry,

The material that I use is sold as a "Silicone baking sheet", note the spelling !  Mine comes in several colours and is only about a mm thick, roughly the same size as a foolscap sheet of paper.  Its very soft and flexible too, the debris just brushes off and really hot stuff doesn't stick to it.

That smiley is supposed to have been after the full stop on the first line.

I found that if I didn't oil under the sheet it didn't slide forward with the saddle and rolled up in front of it, and then it did hit the chuck.

In any case that S7LB looks very nice !  Yes I do like the blue colour.


----------



## DJP (Oct 15, 2018)

Given that we are discussing  a long bed, it may not be practical to have full rubber (silicone) covering for the ways. I would consider a short piece of rubber that covers the area where swarf is generated which is where the tool post and cutter are working. A short piece of rubber may push any debris on the ways to the drop off under the chuck where it can be swept to the back and collected from the tray. My old SOUthend had wipers not he ways that were effective enough for the task.

I like the idea but folding over the rubber dam may not be necessary.


----------



## BaronJ (Oct 15, 2018)

Hi DJP,

I'm not sure that you understand, my lathe is the same as Barry's just a later model.
A couple of pictures that might illustrate my bed cover:




The blue sheet under the chuck is my silicon sheet.  Its held by the brass strip next to the saddle.




I agree not particularly easy to see in these pictures, but I can take some better ones tomorrow.


----------



## bazmak (Oct 15, 2018)

Mine is 3mm rubber sheet and robust enough to not be damaged by the chuck rubbing.It is hoped to cover the area around and under the chuck
where all the work/chips will be found.How much turning will be done 18" from the chuck (not much) Its trial and error.If need be I can
make the mat quick release and have say 3 at varying sizes.Only time will tell.


----------



## DJP (Oct 15, 2018)

No need for more pictures. I watched Barry's video so I can see the rubber sheet in action. My only suggestion is that it doesn't need to be that long and fold over under the chuck. As long as it covers the area from the tool post to the spindle frame when working close to the chuck ( 6 inches) it will do most of the job. It then becomes independent of bed length and reduces any chance of interference with extended jaws.

Enough on this topic from me as you have a working prototype that I can copy. Thanks.


----------



## bazmak (Oct 15, 2018)

Last comment.As I said the length is still to finalised with plenty of use to sort
any problems.Will keep you informed


----------



## bazmak (Oct 16, 2018)

Well just a couple hours.Finished the tailstock and tweeked a few things as I think of them or as they surface.
Found the ideal position and bolted the lathe and the switch down.I then checked the h,stock and tailstock heights
I also set the tailstock alignment front to back.Turned a couple of diameters 13 thou taper over 200mm so adjusted
the bed twist using my patented riser feet. The first ones I made I drilled capstan holes for adjusting but on this pair
I only knurled them.For anyone who makes them they are far superior with the capstan holes.Also cut off about 40mm
from the rubber mat it does not as yet curl naturally but it does seem ok so far


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 16, 2018)

I seem to recall someone making a bed cover with a concertina thing of thin metal/plastic plates with rubber hinges.

How it all worked out in practice is unknown.

I've chucked it in  with a view to more discussion.

My fading memory suggests that it was none other than Professor Dennis Chaddock so it would be a Myford/Drummond

Regards to all 

Norman


----------



## bazmak (Oct 16, 2018)

I have also thought of a concertina cover as used on the Chinese mills.But where to get one
I considered taking apart the spare cartridge fil;ter from my vacuum cleaner but that may be another day
At the moment the rubber sheeting is better than nothing or solid chip tray


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 16, 2018)

bazmak said:


> I have also thought of a concertina cover as used on the Chinese mills.But where to get one
> I considered taking apart the spare cartridge fil;ter from my vacuum cleaner but that may be another day
> At the moment the rubber sheeting is better than nothing or solid chip tray



Barry

Actually, I saw how to do it on the 'net.

I think that it was all to do with bellows on cameras.

I'm in the midst( mist???) of doing charity audits and have moved from 'a morning suit' to a ' dickey bow tie job. to  a stream of Finance and General Purposes meetings and then- would you believe?-being chaplain.  It never ends but I'll have another go . 

This Chaddock thing was like a pack of cards being shuffled but with cloth hinges.

Oh and the latest epistle is that I have an 'invite' to Tasmania via Oz and -- it's all rather posh - and I want a stopover at HK- for some junk food. 

Who said old age is boring?

Norm


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 16, 2018)

And I sort of Googled and found  a video of How to Make a Leadscrew Cover for a Sherline Mill

I never thought that I'd be into 'Oregano ' but this my friend, seem to be one clue.  The Buzz words are 'bellows' and 'Concertina'

Oh and I must go. 

Aide Memoire--------Norm-- the decanter of port goes clockwise around the table!  
N


----------



## BaronJ (Oct 16, 2018)

Hi Guys,





You can see the magnets clearly now, and how supple and flexible the silicon sheet is.




As the saddle moves forward the silicon sheet just falls into the gap in the bed, right under the chuck.  Also this sheet is now an inch shorter.  It also flops nicely over the lead screw. 

Someone asked, I don't recall, but that is my Norman Tool Post !  I should have made one years ago, beats prating about with shims and the like.


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 16, 2018)

Thanks John! I have this on my Warco mill drill but with two steel edges bolted etc.
However, the rubber has sort of gained a 'Shore Hardness' almost ready to separate.

I have some rubber membrane which was left over when my new shed was weatherproofed.

And 'No' to a Norman tool holder

I'm looking for a new wallet spanner?  Any suggestions, welcome

N


----------



## BaronJ (Oct 16, 2018)

Hi Norman,

I got my silicon baking sheet from one of those £ stores quite some time ago.  I keep looking on the Chinese web sites for some more without much luck.

If I spot any I'll shout.

Can't help with the spanner I'm afraid.  The Grand kids, keep letting the moths out of mine


----------



## bazmak (Oct 16, 2018)

Thanks for all the input guys


----------



## bazmak (Oct 22, 2018)

Thought I would try the gearbox and do some screwcutting.While restoring the 3 no Ml7s I had problems with missing or lost bolts
BSF of course and not easily/cheaply available in my neck of the woods,so I decided to make some allthread
I finished with a foot of 1/4 26tpi, 5/16 22tpi and 3/8 20tpi bsf of course.I started with the 1/4 and had a few problems
with the job springing (o for  steady eh Norm) so got it near and finished with a die.Getting the knack of single point cutting
(I missed the thread dial line a couple of times) but by the time I finished the 3/8 there was no need to use a die.O bliss Myford
compared to the Chinese vari speed.Low speed,plenty of torque and a gearbox..Now I have to clean down the lathe
I removed the rubber mat for this job as it became a problem with the length of feed meaning I had to keep starting its roll everytime
Will try to improve and overcome the problems as they surface


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 22, 2018)

Hi Barry

I'm forgetting but with a 8TPl leadscrew do you really need 'hit' the 'same' division on the dial indicator for even number threads?

Again, I was talking to Neil Hemingway years ago about my Pools Major lathe and not being able to get a steady. He said 'make' a wood one and this was confirmed by Leonard Sparey in his Amateurs Lathe book.

Thinking in terms of screwcutting yet again, Martin Cleeve made something called a 'Fixed Bushing Steady' using a miscellany of bushes dead to size.  What is worth recalling is that he wrote Screwcutting in the Lathe and   on being made redundant from his proper job made special nuts and bolts on his very modified ML7. Somewhere in Model Engineer he wrote up how to make socket screws.

So he made a special fast screwcutting device but this has been vastly improved in a more recent book by Graham Meeks.   I borrowed it from an old mate in his 90's.  Certainly worth a read.

Me?  I'm getting very blind now but trying to soldier on regardless

Best Wishes

Norm


----------



## bazmak (Oct 22, 2018)

I once had a job putting an M6 thread on 6mm dia bar at weekends in my shed for my boss at work
Price per each one.I could not afford a Coventry die box so made and set up a die holder in the toolpost
First tried just letting it pull itself on but set the carriage to the correct feed and screw cut them that way
Main problem was it took a fine cut on the reverse off.Finished with poor quality threads but they were not
important so got awy with it.Went thru quite a few cs dies before I started using hss


----------



## BaronJ (Oct 23, 2018)

Hi Barry,

I have an 1/2" inch Coventry die box, I bought a lifetime ago, I only ever used it once, its sat in a box somewhere !  I thought wow the answer to all threading problems...  No a very expensive mistake !
One, I couldn't afford to buy the dies for it, two, its a bit heavy for the Myford, three, it is the one that is intended to go into a 1" inch socket on a turret lathe.

Ah the impetuousness of youth.


----------



## redhunter350 (Oct 25, 2018)

Hi Baron, use mine quite a bit on a Super 7 here's a pic with the mounting adaptor No 2 morse, yes the dies are expensive but if you have a large batch to do its worth it, however the often come up on flee bay but you need to mack sure they are good. 
John


----------



## BaronJ (Oct 25, 2018)

Hi John, thanks for your reply.

It never occurred to me to make an adaptor to fit the tail stock !
The one and only time I used it, I clamped it in the three jaw, unscrewed the handle and put the workpiece in the Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.  It was supplied with the set of dies I asked for, but when I discovered the price of them, a new round die was only a fraction of the price.

In all honesty, I don't remember where it actually is now, other than its in one of the many boxes of stuff that I really ought to go through and start throwing stuff out.


----------



## bazmak (Oct 25, 2018)

Thanks for the info on the leadscrew dial Norm.I had forgotten what the rules were so played safe and hit the same no
Then googled it and remembered that anywhere for threads divisable x 4 and any no for even threads.It only gets complicated
with half or 1/4 threads.Will stick with 4 nos and use the low speeds for short lengths.Because I had a long length and run out
I cut at about 200 rpm to save time ,it was too fast and made catching the line difficult,but I was impatient.Should have cut at 100 or less
All trial and error.Its much easier with the gearbox and a die to finish off


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 25, 2018)

Barry and John B

Glad to like and comment.  I still have a tailstock dieholder which takes TWO sets of die-ameters
Actually mine is so old that it No1 Morse and sleeved to make it a No2.
Again, there is such a things  as a 'handel for a mandrel'. Mine was more or less George Thomas  Model Engineer Workshop Manual but if you can fiddle a bit with Google there is an old- part left article by Chris Heapy.  It has a a set of Myford things including his version of a 'mandrill handill' and lathe bed stops and, if U recall, a taper turning attachment.  

I need a 'mangle handle' for the Sieg--- a round tooit.

Best wishes

N


----------



## bazmak (Oct 26, 2018)

I made one for the sieg using a sleeved expansion anchor


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 26, 2018)

bazmak said:


> I made one for the sieg using a sleeved expansion anchor



Sounds as if a M12 would modify

Thanks

N


----------



## Hopper (Oct 26, 2018)

I use vinyl cut from an old handbag as a "bib" on the front of the carriage on my ancient Drummond to keep chips off the ways. Works very well.  Very hot chips do tend to stick to it and burn little divots into it so I like the silicone idea.


----------



## redhunter350 (Oct 26, 2018)

Hi Baron,

Don't want to clog up or hi-jack Bazmark's thread but if your interested the adaptor blank I used came from Myford [25 years back ??] I think they still do them
Main point is they are much larger diameter blank and longer than any others you see many of which will be far to small or short for this application.

Regards John
PS In North Lancashire near Lancaster


----------



## goldstar31 (Oct 26, 2018)

I seem to think that die holders to fit tailstocks are generally available but in addition firms like ArcEuroTrade for UK needs, sell blanks etc.  I've been buying various adapters principally to extend the versatility of my Morse taper collection/Myford one to go onto my 'new' Deckel clone T&C which has 5C collets. 

For 30 quid,  Thomas's book makes astounding reading.  Yes, I do have a tenuous connection as Dr Bill Bennett and my late wife went to uni together-  and Bill found me a Myford years ago when he was in dental practice in Darlington. 

Take that whichever way one wishes.
N


----------



## bazmak (Nov 16, 2018)

Well after finishing the super 7 and using it I started to find niggles and made a mental note. One major problem was bed wear
I had reshimmed and adjusted gibs but to get min play at the headstock end it got really tight at the tailstock end. So I stripped down the carriage and did a survey of the bed.Rear way width was +/- half thou and unworn as expected. Front with had max 6 thou wear at the chuck and the 
the shear edges about 3 thou. Fairly typical of a 60yr old machine. First option was a bed regrind but in my neck of the woods the cost would be
about $700 + 2 way shipping about $500 and I deemed the wasn't worth the cost,so I decided to use the unworn rear way. I had read about
it but never seen or attemped it myself.Didnt look too difficult so of I went. Took a light skim in the mill to give me a location shoulder and
made and fitted a nom 16mm x 13mm m/s  guide to the underside of the saddle fixed with 2 socket hd cap screws. Sorry but I used metric
I made the central section about 1 thou less than the bed central gap about 1.375" and a nice sliding fit.The rear shear had about 35 thou gap
so I used a piece of hacksaw blade cleaned up just the right width and approx. 25 thou thk.Then fitted 4 no M4 gib screws to the rear.A lovely sliding fit was obtained over the full lenth of the bed using the rear way. I then lightly adjusted the gibbs to the front way,although strictly not necessary
I also recut the graduations on the tailstock spindle in the lathe as they were hardly visible. Next I hope to rebush or fit brgs to the carrisge handwheel
as there is a little play there


----------



## goldstar31 (Nov 16, 2018)

Morning Barry- nice!

As I have mentioned, what you did was actually what Martin Cleeve did and then Myford 'copied'
When I went that way, I had the top of the bed 'blancharded' first.  The cost was a trifling £50 which lowered the bed perhaps 6 thous. The alternative was 'fine milling' and the shears- or the best one at Number 4 at the rear will show the mill marks.

I tackled the front number 1 shear by making a scraped 'reference out of a long piece of rectangle ms bar using the blancharded bed and then I filled the wear at the usual 6" or so near the chuck end with one of the Loctite products.  I suppose that it all took less than me typing with my one finger. 

So really I heartily approve your solution.

My news is 'bitty' The new vertical milling column for the SiegC4 went back on Monday.  Either a PCB fault or the motor and whilst Axminster Tools sent me a new PCB, my eyesight was no longer capable of allowing me to 'fiddle'. 
Having moved to my Mark1 Super7, I am still troubled by the quite unnecessary loss of SAE32 hydraulic oil used to lubricate the headstock bearings.  
Thanks for the write up

Cheers

N


----------



## BaronJ (Nov 16, 2018)

goldstar31 said:


> Having moved to my Mark1 Super7, I am still troubled by the quite unnecessary loss of SAE32 hydraulic oil used to lubricate the headstock bearings.
> Thanks for the write up
> 
> Cheers
> ...



Hi Norman,
I wouldn't fret too much about the loss of oil through the headstock bearings, mine just pisses through !  The drip tray has a permanent oil slick in there.

As long as the bearing is getting some oil it should be OK.  I can fill the oil cup on mine and a few hours later, it wants filling again.  So now I only bother to top it up just before I'm going to use it.

Take care:


----------



## goldstar31 (Nov 16, 2018)

Thanks John but apologies about the oil  viscosity. It SHOULD read High Bollock?  ISO32 or summat.

Keep well.

N


----------



## goldstar31 (Nov 19, 2018)

A Sieg update! As mentioned earlier here, I have had to return the milling attachment for my Sieg C4 back to Axminster Tools.
Just taken a phone call from a very helpful 'boffin' who swopped PCB's  motors and whatever and was baffled despite 14 years in his 'boffin-hood' doing things.

Laughingly, he said that I wouldn't see two half grain little lights- which are hidden in the concealed cover anyway. But both light up and one goes out and the thing actually  will work. So a delay is necessary to operate
Perhaps he too is or was baffled by a new design PCB.

Happily, I still have hair to pull out.  I've bought a new compass to find where East is. Apparently, Miracles came out of the East which I missed.  I'm making sure that if there are more, they will not be missed.

Take care

N


----------

