# Using the other two corners of CCMT and DCMT inserts



## Lindo (Dec 2, 2013)

Photos show typical CCMT and DCMT insert holders.
Note the broken corners.
I made a holder that will use the normal redundant corners.
Works well for turning (not to a shoulder) and facing.
Chose brass as the holder required 2 x 2.5 mm x .45 tapped holes
for the torx screws.
The cost of buying new tips for an amateur senior citizen) can be out of my budget.
< https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5951753106140935281 >

John
Spain


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## kquiggle (Dec 2, 2013)

Very clever - I sympathize on the budget issue.

Why did you choose brass instead of steel? Also, if you don't mind my asking, where did you purchase your original insert holders?


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## Lindo (Dec 2, 2013)

I chose brass,as it would withstand any tip impact on the shoulders
and the holding screw is 2.5 m x 0.45 m pitch,I not keen on tapping
steel that small.
I machine a lot of tooling out of brass,expensive but great to work with.
The angular machining has to be very accurate.
The original tool holders came from Amadeal UK when I bought the lathe 6 years ago.


Regards
John
of Spain.


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## kquiggle (Dec 2, 2013)

Thanks John - I was wondering about the tapping part myself. Working with brass is a joy - if only it didn't cost so much. 12L14 steel works nicely on a small lathe or mill also (haven't tried tapping such a small tap in it though).

Still looking for a set of decent, not too high priced index holders.


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## Omnimill (Dec 8, 2013)

Lindo said:


> The cost of buying new tips for an amateur senior citizen) can be out of my budget.



Agreed, this is why I only use insert tooling when I have to and rely on one of my Tangential toolholders for most stuff.


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## Omnimill (Dec 9, 2013)

This is my latest Tangential holder, works very nicely and you can turn and face without moving the Toolholder provided it's set at 90 degrees initially. 







I use a specially made gauge for height setting, it's quick and easy.


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## Lindo (Dec 9, 2013)

Very nice to.
If that tool is homemade you have done an excellent job.
I have a mind to make one next year.for general purpose machining.Never used one,so i will give it a try.
I have some doubt if my swinging tool holder could be adapted to fit.I dont think I have enough clearance to the base that bolts to the cross slide.
Nice looking tool height setter.

John
Spain


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## Omnimill (Dec 9, 2013)

Yes it's home made John. I just machined it as I went along and it turned out quite well.


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## AussieJimG (Dec 9, 2013)

Omnimill, your tangential tool holders are works of art; they would not be out of place in a display cabinet.

Mine are much rougher but I made them so that the top of the holder is exactly on the centreline of the lathe so I just turn them upside down on a flat surface to set the tool height.

Jim


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## Omnimill (Dec 9, 2013)

That's a very clever idea Jim, wish I'd thought of that!
It's the sandblasted finish that makes them look good, I use it on a lot of stuff!


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## motoseeya (Dec 16, 2013)

I made one of them and it worked good on light cuts to about 10 th but when I went to a 30 th cut it would move. I used two set screws to hold mine in place maybe that is why mine moved. I just got disappointed and put It to the side. with yours have you had any movement when making big cuts.


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## Lindo (Dec 16, 2013)

No problems with mine re: rigidity.
I looked originally at the frame type and opted to make my own that bolted
down onto the cross slide.
The part that rotates fits snugly into the base,and 2 balls that run in a vee track and can be adjusted for tension.
The underside of the base has a ball race fitted.and a spigot underneath that connects with the bearing and is locked in place so it can't lift up.
Sorry the photo's are not to clear on this subject.But may help.
< https://plus.google.com/photos/112848589944601328801/albums/5678442248754209393 >
Living quite close to a military port,I have access to a few machine shops where I buy my brass and bronze from there scrap bins.The tool can be made in steel

John
Spain


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## Lindo (Dec 18, 2013)

Using just 2 screws to stop the tip rotating is not a good idea in my opinion.
Machine the correct angular recess and use the TORX screw,you then should have no problems.
I have machined steel taking 2 mm dia. cuts no problem.
I have better material removal results with the DCM tips (125 Deg corners).
I believe the angular tip approach to the metal is less,than CCMT IE less force required but CCMT still works good,it's free corners remember,so a bit more
time spent on the toolholder you are producing the betterIt's money in the bank after that.
I have attached a link of ISCAR geometry.
< http://www.iscar.com/eCatalog/Family.aspx?fnum=868&mapp=IS&app=960 >
Somewhere on there web is a PDF file of the tip geometry you can download.
John
Spain


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## Holt (Dec 19, 2013)

Great idea of using the normally non-used edges on inserts, working a place where lots of inserts are thrown away it would be easy to get a lifetime of inserts.
 about the tangential toolholder, I made this a couple of years ago and been very pleased with it:





http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f13/my-tangential-toolholder-17462/


Holt


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