# Drip oilers



## kd0afk (Jun 23, 2013)

I'm in the process of refurbishing my lathe. I've always liked the old style drip oilers so I decided to make some for my baby. I still have to make the springs for them and the filling hole and door. I'm making 4 of them.


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## Wizard69 (Jun 23, 2013)

kd0afk said:


> I'm in the process of refurbishing my lathe. I've always liked the old style drip oilers so I decided to make some for my baby. I still have to make the springs for them and the filling hole and door. I'm making 4 of them.



Nice.    Is the design your own or a copy of some older tech?


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## kd0afk (Jun 23, 2013)

Wizard69 said:


> Nice.    Is the design your own or a copy of some older tech?


Thanks,
The design was from a guy on YouTube who showed off the ones he makes for his machinery. I make the tank a bit bigger but the design is not mine. If made with glass, these things sell for upwards of $100, $50-60 on the average and I didn't want to spend that kind of money times four.


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## Tin Falcon (Jun 23, 2013)

> If made with glass, these things sell for upwards of $100, $50-60 on the average and I didn't want to spend that kind of money times four.


Kudos for making your own and nice job. 
As far as commercial  prices that sounds high. McMaster Carr Cat 1167K53 goes for $35 . They are not usually cheap but they ship fast and I get overnight service at UPS ground rates. 
Tin


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## kd0afk (Jun 26, 2013)

Conducting a full reservoir leak test. 
oiler final.jpg


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## Wizard69 (Jun 27, 2013)

kd0afk said:


> Conducting a full reservoir leak test.
> oiler final.jpg



What did you use for the glass tube?    

As for the guy on YouTube I will have to do some searching when time permits.


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## kd0afk (Jun 27, 2013)

I used good old plexiglass tubing. I will see how well they hold  up and then replace the plex with pyrex. My favorite glass supplier is The Glass House Glass Supply out of Eugene, Or.
I have to redesign the bottom part though. I found that there is enough surface tension with the oil that the oil starts to drip but then just flows down the side and it's hard to gauge the rate.


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## chrsbrbnk (Jun 30, 2013)

the antique ones have a short piece of tube say 1/8 OD about an 1/8 long in the drip zone for the drip to form and hang from.  if the machine vibrates like crazy like a small gas engine  the fall distance from the drip tube to the receiver hole needs to be shorter or it will shake out side of the desired area,       They look great!


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## kd0afk (Jul 1, 2013)

chrsbrbnk said:


> the antique ones have a short piece of tube say 1/8 OD about an 1/8 long in the drip zone for the drip to form and hang from.  if the machine vibrates like crazy like a small gas engine  the fall distance from the drip tube to the receiver hole needs to be shorter or it will shake out side of the desired area,       They look great!


That is one of the modifications to the design that I noticed needed to be done. I tapered the end but that only helped a little bit. I'm also going to lap the needle valve seat so that it seals better. Along with the metals for my Prometheus e-cigarettes I'm ordering the materials for;
the oilers,
the large dial upgrade based on Ed Godwin's design and featured in the action packed series starring Halligan142.
and a spring loaded tail stock tap follower/die holder system.

I'm going to be a busy little beaver for the next month or so.


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## doc1955 (Jul 1, 2013)

Looks nice! 
I took mine and chamfered the threads substantially to form a cone on the end and seems to work very well now. Did not incorporate it into the drawings yet though. 



http://www.homemodelenginemachinist...ngs-my-oiler-design-adjustable-drip-oiler.pdf


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## kd0afk (Jul 1, 2013)

doc1955 said:


> Looks nice!
> I took mine and chamfered the threads substantially to form a cone on the end and seems to work very well now. Did not incorporate it into the drawings yet though.
> 
> 
> ...


I chamfered the threads also, just not enough. I'm going to machine the threads into a thin tube as was recommended. I'm also going to make the "stalk" (the part that screws into the lathe) larger so I have a bigger drip chamber so there will be nothing for the drip to hit. There will also be room then for a thin glass tube. And I'm also going to have to lap the needle valve. I've made a steel grinding bit with a rough finish to make the valve seat and a smooth one for the final lapping, both with the same taper as the needles. I will blueprint the whole thing and submit my version for download. 
Thanks for the great design.


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