# Band saws



## nautilus29 (Mar 28, 2021)

What do you guys have in your shops, and do you have any input on your setup?  Is your band saw taking up more space than it's worth, do you wish you had more options?  I'm trying to decide what I want to put in my shop.  I'm leaning towards a horizontal but I could be swayed.


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## bikr7549 (Mar 28, 2021)

I just got the Harbor Freight 4x6 band saw, and am very pleased with it so far. Right out of the box with no adjustments and the stock 14 TPI blade it has cut thru a bunch of steel (CRS 1.25" sq), some 3"x3"x .25" angle iron as well as some smaller aluminum flats. Cuts were square in both directions. It was not difficult to put together, and the frame that it sits on isn't all that bad, tho that may get replaced at some point with something sturdier. All in all it was a good buy, no regrets.
Bob


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## nautilus29 (Mar 28, 2021)

Thanks, I've been looking at that model every time I'm in HB.  It's goot to know it's an option.  The price is pretty good on it and there are a good amount of used ones around my area too.


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## bikr7549 (Mar 28, 2021)

PS, I have not tried out the vertical arrangement yet. I added another set of holes to the fixed jaw of the vise so that it could be moved closer to the blade. The moveable jaw was adjustable so it did not need that mod.


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## nautilus29 (Mar 28, 2021)

Honestly I didn't even notice it had the vertical option.  I'll have to see if there is a youtube video on it setup like that.


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## goldstar31 (Mar 29, 2021)

As far as my recollection goes( a very long way) a 4 x 6 metal cutting bandsaw iis-- is------

A METAL CUTTING BANDSAW.

Yes, they usually need adjust ment so that the blade runs vertically. There is plenty of mileage- which says-- the same thing. 
Get a good blade or two and not the cheap mstuff.

And get on with IT.

Norman


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## Richard Hed (Mar 29, 2021)

bikr7549 said:


> I just got the Harbor Freight 4x6 band saw, and am very pleased with it so far. Right out of the box with no adjustments and the stock 14 TPI blade it has cut thru a bunch of steel (CRS 1.25" sq), some 3"x3"x .25" angle iron as well as some smaller aluminum flats. Cuts were square in both directions. It was not difficult to put together, and the frame that it sits on isn't all that bad, tho that may get replaced at some point with something sturdier. All in all it was a good buy, no regrets.
> Bob


I've got the same one.  It works well, however, I have already broken 3 blades.  The blades are still good, but I have to find a way to re-weld them.


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## clockworkcheval (Mar 29, 2021)

Over here we also mostly use a similar product to the Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw. A couple of remarks 1) the made in Taiwan variety is better than the made in China variety 2) The little wheels to move it around are worthless, better to mount the thing on a wheeled platform, so you can easily position it when you have to cut longer stock 3) you want to extend the yaws up to the sawband 4) My on/off button box broke away pretty soon, you may want to strengthen the connection right away 5) the standard 14 TPI sawblade is ok, but for thinner stock, especially when you use the vertical option, 18 TPI works better and for the up to 50 mm or 2 inch aluminium blocks I use for special tooling I always use 10 TPI as it lets the aluminium cuttings go more freely.
The machine is in daily use as it cuts much faster and more precise than I can by hand. For many components I use the vertical position to cut the outline of the part.


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## goldstar31 (Mar 29, 2021)

Might I repeat:-.  Get a GOOD blade
Better still buy TWO.
It is possible to join blades by silver soldering or brazing scarfed joints blades as an alternative to welding and annealing. 
Of course blades CAN be sharpened on a homemade Quorn tool and cutter as can hacksaw blades.
 Ahem--- if that is your object in life. 

Ahem!


Norman


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## stanstocker (Mar 29, 2021)

I've had a Grizzly 4x6 that was made in Taiwan since around 1996.  Other than replacing the guide bearings once and cleaning out and refilling the gearbox a few times it has required no repairs.  As others have said, get good blades.  Lenox and Starrett have both been good.  The provided blade is likely carbon steel, OK for a while on aluminum but not great for harder material or very long lived.   The stamped stand can be a bit unsteady is cutting long heavy material.  The replacement made from a large plywood box on casters gives better mobility and storage below the saw, but does eat up more space that you would think.  A medium sized auto drip pan is mounted under the saw on top of the base, this makes clean up much easier and contains most of the cuttings.

Cheers,
Stan


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## ShopShoe (Mar 29, 2021)

I have the 4 x 6 bandsaw. Mine is just like most of them. It is badged as "Northern" and painted a maroonish brown color. I bought it because it was on the store's floor  and Harbor Freight didn't have one in stock the day I went shopping. I have no ties to those two companies or any others.

My saw needed a lot of work to make it better. The most important thing was to make a base for it and get rid of the sheet-metal stand it came with. I also had to do a bunch of fiddling and some mods to get acceptable square cuts. Best improvement is high-quality blades.

It was worth the money for the original saw and the time and money to make it better. It is a timesaver and a muscle-saver all of the time. It takes up some valuable floor space, but I wouldn't want to be without it.

I don't like to use the vertical configuration very much. A future project is to build a better table to improve that function. It's still better to have that than not have that. I previously had a really old Craftsman horizontal metal bandsaw that did not have a vertical setup which I got rid of because it really did not earn its keep.  In my dream shop, I would have both a horizontal saw and a vertical saw.

I am intrigued by the newer, smaller "tabletop" bandsaws on the market now. Perhaps someone with one of those could comment.

--ShopShoe


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## stanstocker (Mar 29, 2021)

Sorry to post twice, but I just thought to mention that a PortaBand is an alternative.  There is a guy on youtube named Jeremy Schmitt who uses a battery powered one to cut fairly interesting shapes in plate.  I had no idea how versatile and capable to newer models had become, may have to put one on the buy list.  Not right for everyone or everything, but small enough to put under a bench when not in use and easy to take outside if you need to.  Some aftermarket vendors sell vertical conversions for at least the original AC powered Portaband, quite popular with some knife makers.

The you tube video is at:



The portaband use starts about 11:45 into the video.


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## cd195 (Mar 29, 2021)

nautilus29 said:


> What do you guys have in your shops, and do you have any input on your setup?  Is your band saw taking up more space than it's worth, do you wish you had more options?  I'm trying to decide what I want to put in my shop.  I'm leaning towards a horizontal but I could be swayed.


I have a WEN table-top model that can cut through up to 5- inch steel.  VERY pleased with it.  The only cavil is that it doesn’t really open up completely to have a vertical mode.  Other than that, it’s perfect for my small crowded shop.


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## nautilus29 (Mar 29, 2021)

Thanks everyone for the input, I was pretty worried about getting the harbor freight model but it seems like almost everyone here has had good experience with theirs.  I don't mind having to make some improvements if needed so if I go with a horizontal I'll probably buy a HF one.



stanstocker said:


> Sorry to post twice, but I just thought to mention that a PortaBand is an alternative.  There is a guy on youtube named Jeremy Schmitt who uses a battery powered one to cut fairly interesting shapes in plate.  I had no idea how versatile and capable to newer models had become, may have to put one on the buy list.  Not right for everyone or everything, but small enough to put under a bench when not in use and easy to take outside if you need to.  Some aftermarket vendors sell vertical conversions for at least the original AC powered Portaband, quite popular with some knife makers.
> 
> The you tube video is at:
> 
> ...




I definitely was considering one of these, it does seem like a decent option, although the harbor freight one is cheaper haha.


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## Chris W (Mar 29, 2021)

I picked up a Walker Turner 14" bandsaw about 20 years ago that has served me very well. It's late '40s vintage and built like a tank. One thing I really like about it is the motor has a two-speed gearbox mounted directly to it which gives me 8 speeds total. I've replaced the tires once and made a set of guide blocks and that's it. I think I paid about $200 for it. For horizontal cutting I have a similar vintage Racine power hacksaw that may not be fast but I can put it to work and go do something else while it chugs its way through anything.


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## awake (Mar 29, 2021)

I have a Harbor Freight version of the 6 x 4, bought about 15 years ago, so don't know how they compare to the model sold today. It is a piece of crap that works astonishingly well - how's that for a mixed message? 

The only modification I have made to mine is to make a slightly larger permanent table that can be used in horizontal mode but is large enough to be useful in vertical mode - thus I don't have to switch the tables back and forth - well worth doing. I keep thinking I want to take the time to do several other mods to extend the jaws closer to the blade, smooth out the way the screw works with the movable jaw, and replace the clamp hand wheel with something that doesn't come loose every so often. And yet, all these years later, I haven't had to do a thing to it, other than occasionally blowing out the accumulated swarf. It probably needs a thorough re-tuning at the least, but meanwhile it continues to cut quite straight, and is so convenient to use. If it quits tomorrow, I've definitely gotten my money's worth, and wouldn't hesitate to buy another of the same type.


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## awake (Mar 29, 2021)

Richard Hed said:


> I've got the same one.  It works well, however, I have already broken 3 blades.  The blades are still good, but I have to find a way to re-weld them.



I TIG weld my blades. I'm no great shakes at it, but I can get usable results. This Old Tony on YouTube has a video on doing this that is helpful, and no doubt there are many others.


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## Howder1951 (Mar 29, 2021)

I have quite a collection of band saws, I started out with a home made upright, channel iron and 1/4" plate frame, 10" wheels all made from scratch. I then purchased 2 Harbor Freight 4x6 saws (one for my son in law. I then purchased a Bauer hand held corded from H/F. My next purchase was a hand held cordless from Canadian tire. Both of the hand held are used a lot for cutoffs in the lathe when the parting gets questionable. Deciding there was a need for a good wood saw, so I have a wooden framed Mattias Wendell saw being built right now.  I have had a modicum of success with silver soldering blades, but still some bugs to work out of the grinding.


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## jeep534 (Mar 29, 2021)

OK i will give my 2 cents worth I have 4 band saws and for a first saw I would recommend a porta band i have a milwaukee brand I find that i use it quite frequently and its ability to cut things that will not easily clamp in the other saws is an asset also if i did not have the other saws    i would conider it a bit pricey i think it would be useful..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA5srmUZDkg


Full disclosure I also have a Marvel 8 auto feed bandsaw , a walker turner with a lo and high gearbox and a doall machine  (a laydown cutoff saw 
I am continually amazed how well the porta band cuts


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## chrsbrbnk (Mar 29, 2021)

An Enco 7x12  the one with the gearbox work awesome.  also have a homemade  16 "vertical   has a 6" square tube backbone  and triangulated the blade support  and wheels . came out super stiff .  also made about 10 inches or better of blade length adjustability     also have a harbor freight  blade welder


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## BaronJ (Mar 29, 2021)

Hi Guys,

I have a Taiwanese 6X4 bandsaw that I bought from an engineering company quite cheaply.  It had been repaired, quite badly, it had suffered been tipped up and fallen on its back, smashing the original motor and breaking the left hand pivot arm.  Some one had tried to fix it with a new 1HP brooks motor and a metal plate screwed on to join the two half's of the pivot arm.

I did a complete refurbishment on the saw and made a new stand, getting rid of the crappy tin one with the wheels on the back.  The failure with the original stand, is if the arm is lifted vertical and the saw is lifted to move it, the weight overbalances it and it goes crashing to the floor.  Which is what happened to the one I bought.






This is a picture of the broken hinge bracket.




One of the mods that I did was to mill the sides of the slot under the blade square.  I then made a steel piece to fit and super glued it in place.




This is a picture after machining the sides of the slot square.




This picture is the new stand that I made.  It is constructed from 1" inch square 1.6 mm wall steel tube.  I put plates on the bottom for castors.




This is how it looks today !  You can see some of the modifications that I did in this picture as well.

Yes I wish I had bought one years ago !  It is probably the most used machine in the workshop.


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## Mike Henry (Mar 29, 2021)

I have 3 band saws, a 20-yo Jet 4x6, a 50/60's era Craftsman 12-in vertical with dual WW/MW speeds and a Roll-in EF1459.  The Jet gets used for round stock and small rectangular stock, the Craftsman for sheet metal and the Roll-in for plate mostly and a bit of larger diameter round stock.  The Jet has been a work horse but needs a tune up as it cuts at a vertical slant; the Craftsman lacks power or needs adjustment to the belt.  The Roll-in is a joy to use but can't cut more than 8" into the material without some futzing.  If I could have only one I'd go with the Jet, but maybe move up to the Jet 7x12 or possibly the Tormach offering, which is semi-automatic and will self feed stock.  That would usually be overkill in my mostly hobby shop.


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## mawpawk (Mar 29, 2021)

Hi guys, I'm in new zealand and am a regular reader of these posts.  This is probably a well known trick, but to catch all or 99.85% of swarf, I took a strong magnet from a micro wave and placed it under the blade on the frame.  Then put a metal dish/tray on top to collect all the swarf. (it will even pull some of the stream o fillings into the flow ) Then when you want to mt the tray you simply lift the tray leaving the magnet behind and most of the area is clean.


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## animal12 (Mar 29, 2021)

I might add to this thread , If you buy  or even someone gives you one of the 4 x 6 bandsaws . Do your self a favor & remove rthe cover over the worm gear & check for fluid . I bought my second one of these
used a few years back it was only @ 6 months old when I bought it . These saws are notorious for not having fluid in the gear box  & mine was empty though it did have 4 seals instead of the  required  2 but all of them were installed incorrectly . These are great saws & if you take care of them they will last you a lifetime . The reason I bought a second was that I had stored my saw & a few things at a buds place while selling my house & I decided to give him teh saw for storage fee's . My original one when I checked the gear box was only @ 25 % full . You need to use gear oil that is ok with the brass/bronze gears . Some guys jkust make a new gear cover out of lexan or Plexi-glass & that way they see the oil level each time they use the saw . There is also a group.oi group for these saws 4x6bandsaw groups.io Group . One member there just posted a week or so back that he was tossing his saw in the  trash cause the worm
gear was trash . He never checked his oil . 
YMMV
animal


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## Tom 1948 (Mar 29, 2021)

My shop is small, So i bought a WEN table to model #3975. Like all Chinese machines it took a bit of tweeking to get things going good but for $269.00 I am pleased with it, Damn sure easier than a hacksaw on 2 or 3 inch stock. Its variable speed and i keep it on a shelf out of the way till I  need it. It had the best reviews and capacity of most table tops on the market


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## nautilus29 (Mar 29, 2021)

Honestly your mention of cutting things off in the lathe has made me reconsider.  That would be really nice, and it's also easier to store\ less floor space being used.



Howder1951 said:


> I have quite a collection of band saws, I started out with a home made upright, channel iron and 1/4" plate frame, 10" wheels all made from scratch. I then purchased 2 Harbor Freight 4x6 saws (one for my son in law. I then purchased a Bauer hand held corded from H/F. My next purchase was a hand held cordless from Canadian tire. Both of the hand held are used a lot for cutoffs in the lathe when the parting gets questionable. Deciding there was a need for a good wood saw, so I have a wooden framed Mattias Wendell saw being built right now.  I have had a modicum of success with silver soldering blades, but still some bugs to work out of the grinding.





jeep534 said:


> OK i will give my 2 cents worth I have 4 band saws and for a first saw I would recommend a porta band i have a milwaukee brand I find that i use it quite frequently and its ability to cut things that will not easily clamp in the other saws is an asset also if i did not have the other saws    i would conider it a bit pricey i think it would be useful..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA5srmUZDkg
> 
> 
> Full disclosure I also have a Marvel 8 auto feed bandsaw , a walker turner with a lo and high gearbox and a doall machine  (a laydown cutoff saw
> I am continually amazed how well the porta band cuts


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## goldstar31 (Mar 30, 2021)

nautilus29 said:


> Honestly your mention of cutting things off in the lathe has made me reconsider.  That would be really nice, and it's also easier to store\ less floor space being used.


Yes, but now we are back- yet again- to parting off in in the lathe correspondence.
In practical terms, cutting off 2" round is quite possible.  I have the rear mounted tool post to the design of Geo Thomas in  his Model Engineers Workshop manual book. 
Perfectly practical and he includes a design for a very much smaller version. 
It has only one fault-  it's English.

The overall fault with  ALL of these designs is that ---- tool and cutter grinder is lost art. Trying not to be parochial, I DO like the Eccentric Engineering grinder. Whether one buys the made up version, uses the kit or works from the cheap but excellent plans, it is perfectly adequate for most workshop applications.
Will it do- All things for All People? Certainly not. 
The only thing  that I would suggest is- if you are going that way- is to start a discussion on  the sensible grades of abrasives.

Me?  Yea, Yea Yea.  Done it--- zillions of years ago


Best wishes

Norman


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## AndrewW (Mar 30, 2021)

I've just purchased some 10/14tpi  bi-metal blades for my Warco Universal Bandsaw (4x6) from Mr Bandsaw (eBay UK). They cut through mild steel like butter! OK - it might be a slight exaggeration, but they perform very well.


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## nautilus29 (Mar 30, 2021)

goldstar31 said:


> Yes, but now we are back- yet again- to parting off in in the lathe correspondence.
> In practical terms, cutting off 2" round is quite possible.  I have the rear mounted tool post to the design of Geo Thomas in  his Model Engineers Workshop manual book.
> Perfectly practical and he includes a design for a very much smaller version.
> It has only one fault-  it's English.
> ...



I don't want to replace the cutoff tool with the porta saw. I was just thinking it would add an extra option that I wouldn't otherwise have.  Especially on my baby taig lathe where slow rpms are umm... hard to come by...  therefore making parting larger stock a night to remember.

At work I've already welded a scrap rod to the back of a part so it would fit in a band saw, so having an option to take the band saw to the lathe in certain circumstances seems appealing.  The questions are, what will be lost by going the porta route, and will I use those things more than what I'd gain from the porta route.

I should mention that I have another barn, and a house that the portability may be of use in.


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## goldstar31 (Mar 30, 2021)

AndrewW said:


> I've just purchased some 10/14tpi  bi-metal blades for my Warco Universal Bandsaw (4x6) from Mr Bandsaw (eBay UK). They cut through mild steel like butter! OK - it might be a slight exaggeration, but they perform very well.


Mine came from the Bandsaw Shop in Leeds.  Again prompt and good quality

Is that a category for the Old Geysers who have been there, seen it all and  mumble into there raggy beards.

It's only about cutting metal in two bits.  What is ALL the fuss?
Wake me up- I'm bored with it


Norman


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## toolingjim (Mar 30, 2021)

I have a 4 x 6 bandsaw that had to be made in Taiwan because it predates the industrialization of mainland China. It is badged as a Cummins, but the only connection to Cummins Diesel is the letters in the name. I made a new table about 8 x 10 from a 1/4" crs drop I found behind the shear at work. I do have to pull it to use the horizontal cut, but the original 2" square 'table' was a joke. The original chipmunk motor was replaced with a Dayton motor before I got it. Makes the sawing balance a little odd, so I hope to put a hydraulic downfeed on it soon. One suggestion: If you are going to tune up one of these saws, use a new blade. The blades sometimes lose the set on one side, and will then cut an eighth inch out of square per inch of depth. I think the set is often damaged when the saw is used as a vertical by people who try to cut small circles with a half inch wide blade, not that I would ever do that.

ps I use the saw as much as any other tool in my shop. It is where many parts start.


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## nautilus29 (Mar 30, 2021)

toolingjim said:


> I have a 4 x 6 bandsaw that had to be made in Taiwan because it predates the industrialization of mainland China. It is badged as a Cummins, but the only connection to Cummins Diesel is the letters in the name. I made a new table about 8 x 10 from a 1/4" crs drop I found behind the shear at work. I do have to pull it to use the horizontal cut, but the original 2" square 'table' was a joke. The original chipmunk motor was replaced with a Dayton motor before I got it. Makes the sawing balance a little odd, so I hope to put a hydraulic downfeed on it soon. One suggestion: If you are going to tune up one of these saws, use a new blade. The blades sometimes lose the set on one side, and will then cut an eighth inch out of square per inch of depth. I think the set is often damaged when the saw is used as a vertical by people who try to cut small circles with a half inch wide blade, not that I would ever do that.
> 
> ps I use the saw as much as any other tool in my shop. It is where many parts start.



My drill press is a 1980 cummins


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## toolingjim (Mar 30, 2021)

Not to hijack the thread, but I believe the Cummins name was used back in the 70's and early 80's before the internet or Harbor Freight or Northern (Hydraulics) They used to roll into a parking lot with a semi full of tools and have a one day or weekend sale. Some stuff was ok and some was junk, just like today.


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## willray (Mar 31, 2021)

I will echo the recommendation for the ubiquitous 4x6, badged by whomever seems to be the flavor of the week.

That thing has one of the most ridiculously outsized utilities for its price, and for its generally only-barely-adequate construction, of any tool I own.

I say this in the context of having _much_ better bandsaws in my shop, on which I could do, much faster and better, absolutely anything that the 4x6 can do, yet the 4x6 gets far more use than the rest of the saws put together.

I _really really_ like quality tools.  The 4x6 is pretty much the polar opposite of a quality tool, yet the [email protected]$# thing does its job, and other than burning out its original motor when an a chunky bit of stock decided to pinch the blade while I was off doing something else, it does it without complaint, or any meaningful need for maintenance.


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## Howder1951 (Mar 31, 2021)

With regards to the H/F saw . My son in law made a new frame for his out of some nice square tube. This winter I have been toying with the idea of stiffening the original frame  and practicing TIG or MIG in the process. I also have one of those bolt together welding carts that is beckoning for the same treatment. i will report my findings when it warms up a bit.


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## BWMSBLDR1 (Mar 31, 2021)

toolingjim said:


> I have a 4 x 6 bandsaw that had to be made in Taiwan because it predates the industrialization of mainland China. It is badged as a Cummins, but the only connection to Cummins Diesel is the letters in the name. I made a new table about 8 x 10 from a 1/4" crs drop I found behind the shear at work. I do have to pull it to use the horizontal cut, but the original 2" square 'table' was a joke. The original chipmunk motor was replaced with a Dayton motor before I got it. Makes the sawing balance a little odd, so I hope to put a hydraulic downfeed on it soon. One suggestion: If you are going to tune up one of these saws, use a new blade. The blades sometimes lose the set on one side, and will then cut an eighth inch out of square per inch of depth. I think the set is often damaged when the saw is used as a vertical by people who try to cut small circles with a half inch wide blade, not that I would ever do that.
> 
> ps I use the saw as much as any other tool in my shop. It is where many parts start.



Cumins was the name of the traveling tool show and I bought a rather good 7X12 Minilathe from them. The Cummins Diesel people made them change the name and they vanished soon after. Bill in Boulder


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## holmes_ca (Apr 1, 2021)

I have had my 4x6 and 1inch belt sander from when Busy Bee was in Vancouver British Columbia over 20 plus years, have served me well and never let me down, 

Edmund.........Alberta


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## RM-MN (Apr 1, 2021)

I have a Harbor Freight 4X6 bandsaw.  Thoughts I have about it.
1. Reading in a few forums, it seems like most cheaper bandsaws are pretty much the same except for the color and the name on them.
2. Any bandsaw is better than a hacksaw.  Miles ahead,
3. To me a bandsaw is to be compared to a drill bit.  You use a bandsaw to cut the metal into smaller pieces.  Then you true up the ends as necessary.  Same with a drill bit.  It makes a hole, somewhat near the size you need.  Then you bore and ream to get exact.
4. My bandsaw has a crappy sheet metal base and the wheels are not good.  I move it only when necessary and the sheet metal base holds it up.  It doesn't improve the cut to have a better base so why bother.


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## goldstar31 (Apr 1, 2021)

RM-MN said:


> 4. My bandsaw has a crappy sheet metal base and the wheels are not good.  I move it only when necessary and the sheet metal base holds it up.  It doesn't improve the cut to have a better base so why bother.



Hoorah, sanity at last.

It's bit like my son whos wife;s car has  had a battery to replace. The cost was £140 and the previous one had gone 8 years- or £1 every THREE weeks.

The Ides of March have gone- and today is April Fools Day


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## harborfreight8x12 (Apr 1, 2021)

Lol.  Yes I also succumbed to Harbor Freight and bought the 4x6 bandsaw.  Yes, the stand was not only cheap but also a safety hazard.  After getting the saw, I was getting materials together to build a proper stand when my wife looked at me and said "I have a better idea".  We went to a flea market (boot sale) and she bought a heavy duty two drawer file cabinet.  That file cabinet, sitting on


 a Harbor Freight furniture dolly, has been my saw stand and cabinet to this day.


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## nautilus29 (Apr 1, 2021)

That's a pretty good idea, cheap and easy



harborfreight8x12 said:


> Lol.  Yes I also succumbed to Harbor Freight and bought the 4x6 bandsaw.  Yes, the stand was not only cheap but also a safety hazard.  After getting the saw, I was getting materials together to build a proper stand when my wife looked at me and said "I have a better idea".  We went to a flea market (boot sale) and she bought a heavy duty two drawer file cabinet.  That file cabinet, sitting on a Harbor Freight furniture dolly, has been my saw stand and cabinet to this day.


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## master53yoda (Apr 1, 2021)

I bought 4X6 at a garage sale four $75.00 it needed bearings,  I looked at the HF saw and ordered a set of bearings when they arrived I realized my saw bearings where half again bigger.   There is no name on my saw but I suspect it was one of the Cummins saw spoken of earlier.   Any way if you need bearings on the older saws they are built heaver then the new HF saws so take off one of the old bearings and get the right ones first.  The old bearings didn"t have a readable #.


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## Ed T (Apr 1, 2021)

I have a 4x6 bandsaw with an ENCO sticker on it. It has served me well for more than 30 years and consumed a number of blades and one motor. I recently picked up a well used KAMA 96 saw for about $150. Cleaned it up and added a VFD that I had lying around to deal with the 3 phase motor. It's an amazing saw and way better than the ENCO saw. It will cut an .010" slice off a 1" bar without any trouble. Cuts square enough that I often don't have to do any clean up. That said, I still use the ENCO almost daily since it is adequate for many of the things I need to do. So, despite their shortcomings, the HF, ENCO, Northern tool (and a hundred other names) saws are a great value for the money and way better than the manual alternatives.


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## Apprentice707 (Apr 2, 2021)

Like so many folks on here, I bought a 4 x 6 Bandsaw, a pillar drill, and a 1" belt sander from Machine Mart about 25 years ago. The total cost was around £350 and some of the best money I have ever spent. I think they all came from Taiwan, not the Chinese mainland. I have made a few modifications to them and keep them well maintained and cleaned and these are important procedures. 
I have retained the saws stand since it does what I want so why fix what ain't broken? I would advise the use of Bi-metal blades on the saw, I bought 3 at Harbour Freight during a visit to the States about 15 years ago for $15 each ($1.80 to the pound then) I still have one left and the fitted one doesn't show any signs of wearing out. Winner. Helps to offset the costs of our hobby. I also use Aluminium Oxide (Blue in colour) belts on the belt sander. Both are worth the bit extra you pay.

Just a few musings on my Chinese things which generally have served me well

Cheers

B


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