# My "Chuck's Horizontal Single"



## bretk (Jun 4, 2008)

I have Started a version of Chuck's Horizontal Single. I Just Can't seem to get theat Darned Poppet Valve Sound Out of My Head :big: :wall: :big: So I Gotta Make one of my own! Is anyone else planning a build of this engine? If so I would be happy to do a step by step as I make my pieces parts.

My Cylinder:






-Bret


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## J. Tranter (Jun 4, 2008)

Please do a step by step. If I don't build I still learn so much by seeing it done.


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## cfellows (Jun 5, 2008)

Great Start, Bret. Sure hope I didn't make any mistakes on the drawings! 

If anything looks odd or a little wrong, let me know before you start making swarf. 

Guess I better get back to finishing the drawings...

Chuck


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## Brass_Machine (Jun 5, 2008)

Did I miss the plans? Did you post them already Chuck?

Eric


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## tel (Jun 5, 2008)

I've got the head made (in brass). Planned to do the cylinder today, but got sidetracked. 

I'd be interested in your 'blow by blow' if you do it.


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## jim_geib (Jun 5, 2008)

Bret,

I have also started building Chucks Horizontal Single. I am building it in Autodesk Inventor and in the shop at the same time. The cylinder was layed out last night. Like you when I heard the engine running I knew I had to make one. I will be following your thread and Chucks plans and add when I can.

Thank's to both you and to Chuck for the plans.

Jim Geib
Mansfield, Ohio


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## cfellows (Jun 5, 2008)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> Did I miss the plans? Did you post them already Chuck?
> 
> Eric



Eric,

I've been posting the drawings one page at a time as I make them up. I'll combine all the drawings into one document when I get them finished.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2100.0

Chuck


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## Bogstandard (Jun 5, 2008)

I discovered 'Chucks Way' a while back, and with Chucks great descriptions and diagrams, I managed to make my own.

If you have a longing to make an ic engine, without the hassle of ignition, carburation and cooling, this is defintely the way to go.

Thank you Chuck

John


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## Brass_Machine (Jun 5, 2008)

Thanks Chuck.

What do you think of a team build for this engine?

Eric


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## dave e (Jun 5, 2008)

Yes, please on the step-by-step. I'm currently working on Elmer's mill engine, which at my pace will probably take months to finish. But Chucks engine is definitely the one after that.


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## bretk (Jun 5, 2008)

Eric,

 I think this would make a great team build, and I am very willing to participate ;D

-Bret


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## cfellows (Jun 5, 2008)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> Thanks Chuck.
> 
> What do you think of a team build for this engine?
> 
> Eric



Eric, if you are asking me, I wouldn't mind if the group wanted to do a team build. However, I wouldn't want to participate, other than answer questions or consult. I have a very difficult time making more than 1 or 2 of something exactly alike. I tend to be more of a fitter. ;D

Chuck


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## bretk (Jun 5, 2008)

Installment # 2

Valve Parts






Tonight was spent on the 3 valve parts for Chuck's engine, I had some nice 3/4 bronze lying around so I thought it would make a nice Bling Counterpoint to the Brass Cylinder ;D I started with the external work in the 3 jaw and turned all diameters per Chuck's drawing except the Inlet pipe. I had some nice Clippard valve 10-32 Barb fittings laying around and thought it would work nice for the inlet hose. so I left the inlet pipe .375 and only .500 long and tapped 10-32. Parts were Parted : off approx .01 thick. 

The valve was turned from 5/16 brass rod using a 3-c collet (gotta love collets in a lathe ) and a 60 degree taper was put on the valve seat as that was the only countersink I had available at the time for the valve seat. Chuck, I hope it's not too steep. 

Valve body was then flipped and drilled .120 thru, then .189 to a depth of .500, then finally a 1/2" endmill was put in the tailstock chuck and brought in to a depth of .125 per the dwg. then a 60deg countersink was used to create the valve seat.

Valve cap was chucked and the .500 step was machined. Finally a 3/8 endmill was chucked in the tailstock and brought in to create clearence for the valve to rise.

-Bret


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## cfellows (Jun 6, 2008)

Looks great. I don't think 60 degrees will be too steep.

You may have noticed that I added the drawings for the engine frame tonight. Did you get your angle iron yet?

Chuck


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## bretk (Jun 6, 2008)

Chuck,

Not yet, I hope it comes in today's mail so It gives me something to work on this weekend  Speedy metals is usually pretty quick in shipping (pun intended) so I expect it soon.

-Bret


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## bretk (Jun 7, 2008)

Speedy Metals Delivered Yesterday! So I started on the engine frame. Material is 1.25 by 1.25 by .25 hot rolled steel. I had forgotten how hot milling steel chips can get without the coolant bath of a cnc machine! (especially landing on your arms) I guess i've been too spoiled working with brass and aluminum :big:. Material machined to length then milled one flange on each part to height of .625 still not sure how I am going to join them, am worried that welding them together will warp/throw things out of alignment. What does the group think? ??? I was thinking of attaching each side to the base plate seperately and using the cylinder endplate to join them with bolts. Here is a pic of them machined to width.

-Bret


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## bretk (Jun 7, 2008)

I wanted to do a reply on materials sources for this engine. So Here is where I found items (with Chuck's Guidance)

Gears:
http://www.sdp-si.com/estore
Stainless Steel Gear Item #'s
S1086Z-048S020      	2		$13.91/Each (small Gear)
S1084Z-048S040      	2		$13.60/Each (large Gear)





Bearings:
http://stores.ebay.com/RCBoyz
Great Source of inexpensive small ball bearings approx $1.00 ea and shipping for 14 bearings was only $2.00. Make sure you ask for combined shipping discount, it will be better then the automatic ebay discount!






Flywheels:
http://www.tinypower.com/store2.php?crn=60&rn=297&action=show_detail
Bronze flywheels 3" dia, nice castings at only $8.50 each. Stock Up!!!!





Steel and Other Metal Not in my Recycle Bin 
http://www.speedymetals.com/
Quick shipper, pretty reasonable prices, can buy in small quantity with no surcharge.

-Bret


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## cfellows (Jun 8, 2008)

bretk  said:
			
		

> still not sure how I am going to join them, am worried that welding them together will warp/throw things out of alignment. What does the group think? ??? I was thinking of attaching each side to the base plate seperately and using the cylinder endplate to join them with bolts. Here is a pic of them machined to width.
> -Bret



I agree with you, Bret. Just use two screws each side up through the bottom plate, then screw the front plate to each side. That's essentially what I did on this engine, except I had room to come in from the top:






Also this one, but the bolts come up from the bottom:






Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 8, 2008)

I just finished my first ever "wobbbler" and I may try and build this engine next. Is there a video/audio clip somewhere of this engine running?---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 8, 2008)

Chuck just posted a video for me on the thread where he is posting the plans. this will definitely be my next build.---Love the sound!!!


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## bretk (Jun 8, 2008)

Brian,

Chuck Has been Very helpful regarding this build, Bog has built a very similar engine and also is willing to answer questions, and I would also be happy to answer any questions you had. It has not been terribly difficult so far, but it does involve some millwork and turning between centers with a lathe dog for the crank (I am working myself up to that one  ) 

Regards, Bret


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 8, 2008)

I bought a faceplate and lathe dogs when I got my lathe, and have used them once just to see how they worked. I turned a peice between centers and used the lathe dog, and it is very simple. I have a small mill on order,--it should be here by the end of June. ---Brian


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## Bogstandard (Jun 8, 2008)

Bret and Brian,

For this sort of engine a built up crank is perfectly OK, and dead easy to do if you don't fancy turning one out of the solid.

If you go to the bottom of the first page and the first bit of the second, it shows two different methods, you can just as easily use steel, and you can pin and loctite or silver solder, the free end on the crankpin can be pinned or soldered instead of the grubscrew.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=862.0

John


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## bretk (Jun 8, 2008)

John,

 I will probably try both turning between centers and doung a built up crank A-LA-Bog and see which one turns out best, I like the built up idea in that I can put a ball bearing on the crank journal too. But I need to learn how to turn between centers sometime : and as they say, there is no time like the present. 

Today's installment is kinda short as we spent most of the day working with the alpacas. (we raise them) I did get most of the rest of the shaping done on the frame side parts, no real tips here, just lots of chips on the floor.

-Bret


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## Bogstandard (Jun 9, 2008)

Bret,

I think what you are doing is the correct way.

You might HAVE to make a solid crank in anger one day, and doing a relatively easy one now will at least give you a good insight into method, and what needs to be done.

I was just trying to give you options.

These are not my ideas by the way, they come from the distant past.
I just showed how easy they are to do.

Build is looking real good by the way.

John


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## bretk (Jun 9, 2008)

John,

Belive Me when I Say:  :bow: I Appreciate ALL the Input I Can Get! :bow: I don't get a chance to spend time arount machinists in my line of work, so I really appreciate all the tips everyone is willing to offer, it's kind of like a virtual apprenticeship ;D Soo thanks again and keep em coming everyone :bow: :bow:

-Bret

Cool, I didn't know you could get the little guys to glow red too!! :big:


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## bretk (Jun 16, 2008)

Progress and Pictures ;D

First the Base: I took Chucks advice and mounted the angle to a brass intermediate base (which will eventually be mounted to a sculpted ali base for a little bling A-La-Bog ;D) with 2 ea 6-32 screws per side at stations 1.00 and 2.oo from the crank end. Then I set about the cylinder mounting end and chucked a pc of 1/4 by 1.25 cold rolled in the 4 jaw and drilled and bored the .900 hole for the cylinder. Then, taking to the mill, I drilled 4 clearence holes for 4-40 scrws at.125 from the edge 2 @ .600 high on the sides, and 2 equidistant in from the ends. I then clamped the whole shebang in the vise and using the reverse end of the drill bit as a centering guide, then flipping it over to spot drill the holes as a guided center drill, I drilled and tapped the frame for the endpiece. As the unit was too highfor my spring loaded center, I took my 1/8" collet, a 1/8" pin, and as shown in the photos set up a nifty little tap centering and following device, I found that the weight of the collet and loose drawbar are just enough downforce to get the tap started nicely.













Then I started work on the valve head. I did mine slightly different than Chuck. After squaring up the stock and drilling and reaming the 3/8" hole for the valve body, I set it up vertical in my mill and drilled a .120 hole thru, clearing chips frequently. then enlarging to a letter F drill I drilled to the specified depth. I then reamed the hole with a 1/4" reamer.
Then placing it on it's side I drilled the 1/8" inlet and exhaust holes.




I then shaped the outside with the mill and belt sander.

I got a chance to Use my rotary indexing table for the bolt holes and boy was that awesome ;D it really takes the guesswork out of things and alignment was spot on.





So Here are some pics of the progress so far. I added a Beveled exhaust pipe for a more hit and miss feel













-Bret


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## Divided He ad (Jun 17, 2008)

That's looking mighty fine there Bret ;D

I like the contrast of materials and the exhaust....This is another engine on my list so I'll be watching for the rest of your build quite carefully  



Ralph.


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## cfellows (Jun 17, 2008)

Dang, Bret, you're kind of one-uppin' me here. I may have to build another one that looks as good as yours!

Mighty fine work...

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 17, 2008)

Am I getting a bit senile or what??? I keep looking for Chuck to post more drawings, and the last update I can find on his thread is the 09-June. Am I looking in the wrong place or is chuck just taking his time with more posts?


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## bretk (Jun 17, 2008)

Chuck,

 Thanks for the compliment ;D But I think that John Deere engine of yours will be more than enough competition 8)

Brian,

Chuck's drawings are like fine wine, they are aged to perfection and you don't want to rush them or all you get is sour grapes :big: (just kidding) I think he is working on the next installment, and I am finishing up the flywheels tonight. Will try and post on them soon. I ordered a half dozen extra, cause sooner or later someone at Tiny Power is going to realize they are priced well undermarket value.

-Bret


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## cfellows (Jun 17, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Am I getting a bit senile or what??? I keep looking for Chuck to post more drawings, and the last update I can find on his thread is the 09-June. Am I looking in the wrong place or is chuck just taking his time with more posts?



I've been out of town for the last week, just got back home last night. 

I'll pick up again tonight. Don't have a lot of drawings left to do.

Chuck


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## bretk (Jun 24, 2008)

Progress ;D I finally got my Honeydo list down to a manageable level and was able to sneak down to the workshop for a few minutes of bliss.  :big: I finished up the bearing blocks differing slightly from chuck's design by using 1/4 id by 3/8 od flanged bearings as described previously. This leaves plenty of room for the 4-40 holdown bolts. My locatons are as follows: with 0 being the aft end of the engine and centerline stations being given, 250 aft bolt, 550 crankshaft, 850 front bolt, 1172 intermediate shaft.

The photo shows the bearing not yet press fit into the hole left by the 3/8 endmill bored 100 thou deep for it. my thru drill was a 5/16 endmill


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## bretk (Jun 26, 2008)

I bit the bullet and completed a crankshaft today  I used Bog's built up method with roll pins and loctite to allow the use of a ball bearing on the connecting rod big end. It turned out pretty well. Made from drill rod and cold roll. I have the parts ready to try a silver soldered brass crank tomorrow, so we will see which I like better.

-Bret


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## cfellows (Jun 26, 2008)

You're really doing a crackerjack job on this engine, Bret. It's looking great!

Chuck


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## bretk (Jun 27, 2008)

Well a bit of a setback today :-\ :'( On the plus side I finished the piston and Connecting Rod. I put a 1/4 by 3/8 by 1/8 ball bearing in the big end and added flutes and dummy 2-56 brass bolts for a little Blingage ;D The setback came when I went to fit everything up and tried to slide the bearings on the journals. HOW COME I NEVER KNEW THAT 1/4" GROUND AND POLISHED DRILL ROD IS ACTUALLY .252 DIAMETER???? SILLY ME THOUGHT WHEN I ORDERED 1/4" I WOULD GET 1/4"    BUT NOOOOOOO!  Ok, done venting, I guess I will be finishing the silver soldered brass crank with the honest to goodness 1/4" (.2500000000000) Ok .250 stock.  Here is a pic of the Piston, Con Rod, and ill fated Crank , which has scince found a home in my recycle bin and I'm sure a use on a future project. (maybe a finger engine?????)

-Bret


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## Powder keg (Jun 27, 2008)

So, Your crankshaft is oversized by.002"? Can't you just polish it down with some emery?

Wes


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## GailInNM (Jun 27, 2008)

Bret,
Drill rod is normally oversize a small amount to allow grinding to size after hardening. I have found that on small sizes it can vary quite a bit. I have bought packages of 5 from Online Metals and then measured and sorted them so I can use them in different applications.

For shafts where they have to fit a bearing, I use 1144 stressproff TGP. TGP stands for Turned, Ground, and Polished. It is held to close tolerances to use in Swiss type CNC lathes where the material is fed through a close bushing by a sliding headstock. The typical tolerance on it in small sizes is +0.000/-0.001. A lot of suppliers have it. Speedy metals has 1/4 inch diameter for about $0.90 per foot. It also machines very well as it is made for screw machines.

Gail in NM,USA


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## Bogstandard (Jun 28, 2008)

Bret, lovely job on the crank and piston setup.

I said you would most probably have no trouble with making a built up crank. Didn't think about the material size issue though. 

But think positive thru failure, and of the two lessons you have learned from the exercise, you now know how easy it is to make a built up crank, and you should always check your bearings for fit before anything else. I can almost guarantee you won't make the same mistake again.

John


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## bretk (Jul 6, 2008)

Here are the updates to complete the engine. First is a photo of the silver soldered brass crank. It was way easier than I was expecting. I used Bog's trick of solder rings pushed up next to the web then heated it all.






Valve train was built pretty close to Chuck's specs other than using 1/8 ID by 1/4 OD roller bearing. Cam was a 4-40 button head screw with a nut under loctited in the setscrew hole then rough filed to shape











The valve rod is drilled to accept a cap 2-56 screw to use as an adjustment






Here are some assembled photos, pre polish of course :big:


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## Bogstandard (Jul 6, 2008)

Wonderful stuff Bret, I really like the vids on your other post as well.

Now just tell me, were you worrying too much over making the cranks?

They look difficult, but when you get to do them, they are dead easy.

Well done

John


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 6, 2008)

Bretk--You are doing some very nice work there fellow!!! I am following your post with interest.--Brian


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## bretk (Jul 6, 2008)

John, Much as I hate to admit it.. :wall: :wall: :wall: You were right ! :bow:

-Bret


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## Brass_Machine (Jul 7, 2008)

Very cool!

Eric


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## Divided He ad (Jul 7, 2008)

Nice machine you got there Bret, I think you will have a lot of fun on your hands polishing all that lot!!  


Waiting for the movie ;D 



Ralph.


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## bretk (Jul 7, 2008)

Ralph,

Check out the video in the videos section  I uploaded a couple of it running.  As for the polishing, your blingmeister video couldn't of come at a better time! ;D She is apart and getting her primping now    although she won't hold a candle to your wheel and tyre engine    I hope to get a nice end product.

-Bret


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## dreeves (Dec 25, 2008)

I am just getting started on Chucks Single and have been redrawing it in autocad 2002 and wanted to share it. Sorry for the poor quality of the image


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## rleete (Dec 25, 2008)

Drawing it in 2002 is harder work than making the real thing!


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## cfellows (Dec 25, 2008)

Nice drawing, Dreeves. I'm just now trying to learn Alibre. Got a ways to go. Up to this point I've been pretty much limited to 2d.

Good luck with the single. Looking forward to pictures of parts!

Chuck


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## dreeves (Dec 25, 2008)

I would love to see more of your new valve design. 

By the way here is another cad drawing you might know


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## dreeves (Dec 25, 2008)

rleete,

I had the fortune to have a great high school teacher that I still keep in touch with. He gave me a copy and gave me the basics. I learned mostly buy just trying. I have redrawn all the prints I get. I find it a great tool to draw in solid because it allows you to figure how to cut the part before you make chips. I still make parts 2 or 3 some times. Thanks also to chuck for providing the great prints to his hard work.


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## cfellows (Dec 25, 2008)

Another great drawing! Nice to see I have a following. :big:

Here's a link to the valve design.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3268.0


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## rleete (Dec 26, 2008)

dreeves,

I have an Associates degree in CAD. I've learned (and forgotton) more systems than I can count. Many of the systems no longer exist! Back when AutoCAD was new, I was working at Xerox on the Intergraph system. My friend was a designer for a small company (he was the entire design department) working on the early versions of ACAD. When they'd come out with a new release, and brag about the added features, I'd wonder how he got anything accomplished. Simple stuff that we take for granted was new back then.

Years later, I started on ACAD 9, and worked with it up through the revisions and finally to Mechanical Desktop - this was when 386x processors were the norm - and spent more time rebooting than designing. By the time I got up to version 14, I was still typing in commands, as it was faster than learning where all the icons were on the various menus. I've since become proficient in Inventor, and for the past few years have moved on to SolidWorks.

Recently, I started doing some drawings for a member here. I have an older version of Solidworks on the home machine, and going back to earlier versions is more difficult than I remembered. Hats off to you for learning _any_ CAD system. Took me a couple of years of college to do it.


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## dreeves (Dec 26, 2008)

Thanks rleete,

I started on autocad 14 and went to 2002. I have inventor but dont like and cant figure it out. It has been a learning curve. I had to laugh because I still type in comands because I dont know where all the tabs are either. I most likely do some thing in a round about way but I still come to the same cross road in the end. I will keep plugging away at it and learn new stuff every time I draw something. I wish i could rember how to safe a render as a photo to make it easy to show them.


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## dreeves (Dec 30, 2008)

bretk

I would like to know the center distance for the gears are. I am going to try to cut my own. :big: :big: :big: This will be the second time i have attempted to cut gears. The first ones worked out ok


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## Paolo (Jan 7, 2009)

Nice work dreeves!! AutoCAD is not so easy but it pays the time spent learning...
Cheers Paolo


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## artrans (Jan 7, 2009)

Hats off to anyone that does cad been trying long and hard I think someone from another planet invented it they could have made it a little easier Boolean that's a term from bob cad
it could be much more user friendly. Like how about a crankshaft icon so you hit that and you just type in the size or a piston icon,flywheels. Gears they have but how many hobbyist no pressure angles. there could be a hobby cad ha good idea.


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## rleete (Jan 7, 2009)

They have all that. It's in Solidworks already. It just isn't cheap.


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