# Beaver VBRP help



## grunty (Mar 20, 2010)

Hi
I have eventually got my mk2 VBRP up and running in the workshop, still need to level and sort some suds but that will come very soon 
But...
Having now run it and removed some metal from a test piece I have noticed the handwheel on top the machine is getting warm after a short time. It also does not seem to operate the drawbar as I would have expected, i have to use a spanner.

also
how do you adjust the depth of cut? I can raise or lower the quill with the hand lever but how would I adjust the depth a couple of thou or so? the little black wheel does not appear to do anything?

Has anyone got the dimensions of the tapers for making sure the head is set at zero in both its nod and tilt.

there will be more questions ???

thank you
alan


----------



## Tin Falcon (Mar 20, 2010)

> Having now run it and removed some metal from a test piece I have noticed the handwheel on top the machine is getting warm after a short time.


Sounds like you may be runner er with the brake on HMM.



> how do you adjust the depth of cut? I can raise or lower the quill with the hand lever but how would I adjust the depth a couple of thou or so? the little black wheel does not appear to do anything?


On a knee mill the quill is used for drilling operations. Depth of cut is controlled by raising or lowering the table there should be a graduated dial on the knee crank.



> Has anyone got the dimensions of the tapers for making sure the head is set at zero in both its nod and tilt.


Not sure what you are getting at what tapers? and what does that have to do with tramming n the head?



> there will be more questions


to be followed buy more answers. you should be able to get a manual for your mill at http://www.lathes.co.uk/beaver/

also download and read Army tcto 9-524 http://www.metalworking.com/tutorials/army-tc-9-524/9-524-index.html
Tin


----------



## grunty (Mar 20, 2010)

Cheers for the reply 

Brake? 

Adjusting depth of cut with the knee crank seems too course, I would have thought there would be a fine adjustment?

The tapers, dowels?, are inserted into holes in the head to locate it at zero degrees, they have a nut to remove them when tilting.

I have downloaded the manual but it doesn't tell me how to use the machine, only to take it apart 8) 
Will take a look at the other recommendation 

Thanks
Alan


----------



## Tin Falcon (Mar 20, 2010)

> Brake?


Knee mills usually have a brake engage it to stop the spindle quickly or change tooling a Bridgeport has a cam lever handle do not know about yours maybe that black handle ?




> The tapers, dowels?, are inserted into holes in the head to locate it at zero degrees, they have a nut to remove them when tilting.


 OK now I understand . Have you tried standard taper pins? You should be able to tram the head without them but the pins at least in theory should make the tramming faster and keep the head in tram. 

the army manual mentioned is general info.
Tin


----------



## New_Guy (Mar 20, 2010)

you dont tilt the head by a worm gear like the bridgeports? if so that should be all thats needed but i think there is a special way of doing it so you remove any backlash in the screw that can push the head out of tram 

is the hand wheel on top sort of spring loaded?


----------



## grunty (Mar 20, 2010)

To tilt you loosen the nuts on the front and tilt with a ratchet on a splined shaft then tighten the nuts back up. To get to zero is just a scale and pointer which to me seems a little hit n miss?
The manual mentions the tapers but none were supplied with the machine.


----------



## New_Guy (Mar 21, 2010)

you didnt try and tram it with a dial indicator it seems if you set the head true and tighten the bolts it shouldnt move so i dont see why you need the tapered bots

i was taught when adjusting the head to move it up and then down to its correct position that way it will remove the backlash and the head wont move from upward force of drilling/boring


----------



## joeby (Mar 21, 2010)

Myself not having actually seen, much less used, a Balding Beaver, I am not going to be of much help :

 I have looked at the specifications of the model you have, however, it appears to be a 40 taper spindle. As such, I doubt that the handwheel on top is going to be of any use for loosening or final tightening of the tool-holder. I would assume it was intended to make threading the drawbar into/out of the toolholder more convenient.

 As for the feed handwheel on the side of the head, most machines of this type I have seen require the feed to be engaged in some manner. My mill, being a Bridgeport clone, has to have the feed clutch engaged and the reversing knob in the center of the handwheel pushed in or pulled out to make use of the hand feed.

 The taper pins are readily available and are sized by number. McMaster-Carr sells the threaded shank type you would be looking for;
http://www.mcmaster.com/#taper-pins/=6bablv

Kevin


----------



## grunty (Mar 21, 2010)

I agree, the handfeed issue is going to be just learning what does what 

Thanks for the pins link, I was hoping for a UK company but all i came up with was USA suppliers :/
I managed to source a big dividing head yesterday that had been sat at the back of a mates garage for some years and was a tad rusty. Today was starting to clean that up and while there I had a poke around the mill again and found the nod taper pin is installed but the tilt one is missing and they are not the same :-\ so will have to do some careful measuring.


----------

