# Howell V4 from Italy



## Foketry (Mar 17, 2019)

Hi everyone
About 2 years ago , before my retirement, i bought plans for  construction  V4  from Jerry Howell.
I started work the engine block but i suspended  it to dedicate myself to the Holt 75 project because i had fallen in love with the characteristic roar of this engine .
Now i resumed Howell V4 which I consider a more challenging project, certainly more complicated.


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## Foketry (Mar 17, 2019)




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## e.picler (Mar 17, 2019)

Hi Foketry!
Another great project. I will be following your construction with great interest. I also have the plans for this engine.

Good luck.

Edi


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## G54AUST (Mar 17, 2019)

Hey Foketry.

          Just found your V4 build thread and shall be following very closely.

          I've given my kids a wishlist for my birthday with the V4 and the V2 drawings on top of the list.

          In the mean time I have ordered and printed the Farm Boy drawings and shall start on these.

          Plenty of pix of your build please.


Kind Regards,


Trevor,
Melbourne,
Great Southern Land.


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## Foketry (Mar 18, 2019)

Hi G54
 I've already built  Farm Boy, it was my first engine, it's a nice project and it works very well. If you need any information, please feel free to ask.

happy Birthday


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## Foketry (Mar 23, 2019)

Milling of gear teeth through the 4th axis , intermediate gear 48 pitch, 78 tooth - 26 tooth
In Italy  pitch  48 is not widespread, i had to buy cutters in England or change the project, I preferred  buy the new cutters














638 Loctite assembly


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## Foketry (Mar 31, 2019)




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## Foketry (Mar 31, 2019)

After processing the engine block, where it was difficult to make  water outlet passages and close them with the caps  without water leakage, i started working heads


The finished heads


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## Foketry (Apr 8, 2019)

The rods , fork end rods and knife end rods











2 fork end rods + 2 knife  end rods


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## Foketry (Apr 12, 2019)

The oil pump , body and cover


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## Foketry (Apr 12, 2019)




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## Foketry (Apr 12, 2019)

The  finished oil pump


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## Foketry (May 1, 2019)

After finishing the lapping machine for piston rings (see my post in Tool ) https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/lapping-machine-for-piston-rings.31217
I continue with Howell engine


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## Foketry (May 1, 2019)




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## Foketry (May 4, 2019)

View attachment 109076



View attachment 109076


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## Foketry (May 4, 2019)

The double cam , 2 + 2 pieces with self-made CNC milling machine (Rong Fu 45 )
After milling, hardened with water


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## petertha (May 4, 2019)

Coming along nice. Is this a dedicated holding fixture for the piston? I don't quite get the set screw & don't see a split line.

I traded my RF-45 in for a mini Bridgeport clone. I'd like to see your RF-45 CNC conversion one day just for old times sake


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## Foketry (May 5, 2019)

petertha said:


> Coming along nice. Is this a dedicated holding fixture for the piston? I don't quite get the set screw & don't see a split line.
> 
> I traded my RF-45 in for a mini Bridgeport clone. I'd like to see your RF-45 CNC conversion one day just for old times sake



It is a very simple fixture dedicated to the Howell V4 pistons, there is a screw that locks it.
The phasing is done through a long pin aligned with the X axis of the machine, I use a dial indicator to align the long pin


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## Foketry (May 5, 2019)

petertha said:


> Coming along nice. Is this a dedicated holding fixture for the piston? I don't quite get the set screw & don't see a split line.
> 
> I traded my RF-45 in for a mini Bridgeport clone. I'd like to see your RF-45 CNC conversion one day just for old times sake




Some photos of my milling machine  RF45 :

4 Geckodrive to drive CC motor whit encoder


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## Foketry (May 5, 2019)

Usually I use the supplementary motor for aluminum processing, 3000-6000 rpm, 2.2Kw, only  for heavy machining I use the on top original motor


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## Foketry (May 5, 2019)




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## petertha (May 5, 2019)

Very impressive, thanks for sharing


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## Foketry (May 14, 2019)

After the connecting rods and pistons now the camshafts .
 I milled the cams in 2 + 2 pairs ,  heated in  oven and hardened  in  water
 I put them in phase through the 4 axis of my DIY cnc machine,   then fixed with Loctite.


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## Foketry (May 14, 2019)




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## bluejets (May 15, 2019)

I do similar only I make allowance for and fit a 1/16" roll pin in each before cutting/grinding the cam pair just to be sure it's not going to go anywhere.
Do the machining, remove the pin, remove and harden the cam, then polish and refit with a new pin.
Don't trust loctite alone.


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## Foketry (May 16, 2019)

bluejets said:


> I do similar only I make allowance for and fit a 1/16" roll pin in each before cutting/grinding the cam pair just to be sure it's not going to go anywhere.
> Do the machining, remove the pin, remove and harden the cam, then polish and refit with a new pin.
> Don't trust loctite alone.



I agree with you, but in this case the gluing surface is a long cylinder
I cleaned shaft and hole with acetone and I use high strength Loctite for high temperatures (620)
In case of single cam I use roll pin


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## bluejets (May 16, 2019)

Foketry said:


> I agree with you, but in this case the gluing surface is a long cylinder
> I cleaned shaft and hole with acetone and I use high strength Loctite for high temperatures (620)
> In case of single cam I use roll pin



You can use whatever argument to justify how you do it, still the fact remains.
As I said before, I use the same approach but use pins.
Nice work otherwise.


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## Foketry (May 22, 2019)

The water pump, I started  from impeller


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## Foketry (May 22, 2019)




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## Foketry (May 22, 2019)

Water outlet


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## Foketry (May 22, 2019)

Cutwater





Mounting bracket


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## Foketry (May 22, 2019)

And finally the complete water pump, already tested, some drag problems with the magnets, even a small interference prevents impeller rotation, need to leave some backslash


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## Foketry (May 22, 2019)




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## johnstij (May 23, 2019)

Foketry.
I'm just starting to build this engine so I'm following your build  with great interest.
 Planning a head, where did you buy the distributor brass miter gear from?
Ian


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## Foketry (May 24, 2019)

Hi John
I purchased the gears in Germany at this supplier :
https://ghw-modellbau.de/index.php?cPath=91_83_89

I think it is possible to find them also on Ebay


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## Foketry (Jun 6, 2019)

EngineBlock  and steel cylinder sleeve , internal diameter 24 mm


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## Foketry (Jun 6, 2019)

Timing gear case


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## Foketry (Jun 6, 2019)

Intake manifold


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## Foketry (Jun 6, 2019)

I welded to 2 square brass bars, I milled the outer contour, then I separated the 2 pieces and finally I milled the internal channels


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## Foketry (Jun 6, 2019)




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## Foketry (Jun 20, 2019)

In these days I have completed the distributor with Hall sensor


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## Foketry (Jun 20, 2019)

and now the exhaust manifold from scratch


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## Foketry (Jul 2, 2019)

During these weeks I worked in the construction of the radiator


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## Foketry (Jul 2, 2019)

2 radiator side


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## Foketry (Jul 2, 2019)

one of the eight finned  core elements from brass hexagonal bar


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## Foketry (Jul 2, 2019)

Assembly test


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## Foketry (Jul 2, 2019)

The fan shroud , turning after milling


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## Foketry (Jul 6, 2019)

The fan blade 





round bar to press and shape the blades


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## Foketry (Jul 6, 2019)

The fan hub


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## Foketry (Jul 6, 2019)

the complete fan with welded blades


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## Foketry (Jul 6, 2019)

The Crankcase floor whit oil pressure relief valve


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## tiger650 (Jul 6, 2019)

Hi All  this is a very interesting site .Hope to build a steam driven alternator to assist our solar powered home .No plans chosen yet.And hello from NewZealand.


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## Foketry (Jul 14, 2019)

The oil gallery


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## Foketry (Jul 14, 2019)

*And finally, all the components are ready for assembly  *
*





*


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## Foketry (Jul 14, 2019)

Except the carburetor, it's not my job to make carburetors. I prefer a commercial carburetor


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## Foketry (Jul 14, 2019)




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## michelko (Jul 15, 2019)

Foketry said:


> View attachment 110211



Wow this is just a cool picture


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## sition (Jul 15, 2019)

Nice


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## minh-thanh (Jul 15, 2019)

Foketry said:


> View attachment 110211


 It is masterpiece !!


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## Foketry (Aug 7, 2019)

After many days of intense work I completed the assembly of the Howell engine


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## Foketry (Aug 7, 2019)

I encountered many problems with the distributor, I fried many Hall sensors during the timing.
I used TIM 6 ignition with  scooters Coil with quite satisfactory results  but the battery drain is too high , about 3 A


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## Foketry (Aug 7, 2019)

After yet another fried Hall  sensor, despite the electrical ground was guaranteed by 2 electric wires, I decided to build a new distributor with increased size of 30%
In absence of lighting it was possible sometimes to see the spark jump from the rotor towards the sensor. When this happened, the sensor was fried........
This happens when the timing is not centered and especially if you feed Tim 6 with 12 Volts
I made a new distributor with 3 different shells, initially using black Delrin, then transparent Lexan
With Lexan you can see exactly what happens inside the distributor , where sparks jump and make a centered timing.


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## Foketry (Aug 7, 2019)

the new distributor compared with the original  and the final version with Lexan


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## Foketry (Aug 7, 2019)

At the center of the distributor  cap I put a graphite contact with a small spring that keeps it always pressed against the rotor


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## Foketry (Aug 7, 2019)

I replaced TIM 6 with CDI scooter, hiding the trigger under the flywheel
This type of CDI has the automatic advance adjustable with trimmer, my setting has excluded the automatism.


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## Foketry (Aug 7, 2019)

the new distributor installed and working


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## sition (Aug 8, 2019)

nice


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## dsage (Aug 8, 2019)

How are you compensating for  triggers off the flywheel happening at twice the speed as they would when triggering at the distributor? (Coupled with keeping the flywheel balanced).
Also it's not surprising you have high current driving that (CDI) coil with a TIM6. The coil is meant for quick ~250v pulses not 12v long dwell activation.


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## Foketry (Aug 9, 2019)

dsage said:


> How are you compensating for  triggers off the flywheel happening at twice the speed as they would when triggering at the distributor? (Coupled with keeping the flywheel balanced).
> Also it's not surprising you have high current driving that (CDI) coil with a TIM6. The coil is meant for quick ~250v pulses not 12v long dwell activation.



the distributor is connected with a crankshaft  by 2: 1 ratio, 4 sparks are made every revolution of the distributor. My flywheel has 2 steel inserts which cause two triggers each revolution, the first revolution for cylinders 1 -4, second revolution for cylinders 3-  2 . 
You can see the photo of my flywheel in the previous post, there are 3 protrusions , 2 contain the steel inserts, one contains a small screw for fixing, the sensor is under the flywheel.

the blue coil used with Tim 6 is not for CDI, it is an external 6/12 volt coil for old scooter ignition
with CDI I used an orange 250 Volt coil


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## Foketry (Aug 9, 2019)

*The model engine video*


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## sition (Aug 10, 2019)

wow！！！


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## bobden72 (Aug 10, 2019)

Very nice sounds good too.


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## bluejets (Aug 11, 2019)

Foketry said:


> the distributor is connected with a crankshaft  by 2: 1 ratio, 4 sparks are made every revolution of the distributor. My flywheel has 2 steel inserts which cause two triggers each revolution, the first revolution for cylinders 1 -4, second revolution for cylinders 3-  2 .
> You can see the photo of my flywheel in the previous post, there are 3 protrusions , 2 contain the steel inserts, one contains a small screw for fixing, the sensor is under the flywheel.
> 
> the blue coil used with Tim 6 is not for CDI, it is an external 6/12 volt coil for old scooter ignition
> with CDI I used an orange 250 Volt coil



Do you have intention of doing a write up on the CDI ignition? Links to parts and wiring especially, I'm sure many would be interested.


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## Foketry (Aug 12, 2019)

bluejets said:


> Do you have intention of doing a write up on the CDI ignition? Links to parts and wiring especially, I'm sure many would be interested.



I was inspired by your post regarding the DC  CDI and after having fried some Hall sensors I decided to experiment  the CDI on this engine.
This Howell V4 has the flywheel under which the CDI trigger can be hidden, I hid the CDI box in a cavity inside the wooden base and connected 5 cables as shown in the diagram found on the web (attached) 
The high voltage cable in the center of the distributor, 12 volt battery and everything worked on the first try.
I can also adjust the advance ignition with a trimmer
If anyone needs more information, I'm available
Now my challenge is energize on the CDI ignition with Hall sensor , I haven't succeeded yet


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## bluejets (Aug 12, 2019)

Foketry said:


> If anyone needs more information, I'm available


Yes, that was what I had in mind.
I (imagine) the coil is a GY6.
What are you using for the "trigger" as original units in the bike are triggered by a coil/magnet.
What is the "trimmer" you refer to and where does that connect?

Probably easier for you to do a write up with links to where the info came from for example. The web is a big place.


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## Foketry (Aug 13, 2019)

bluejets said:


> What are you using for the "trigger" as original units in the bike are triggered by a coil/magnet.
> What is the "trimmer" you refer to and where does that connect?
> 
> Probably easier for you to do a write up with links to where the info came from for example. The web is a big place.




I used the original trigger, a type of CDI box, available in Amazon or Ebay has a trimmer ( blue color ) for advance adjustment, I chose the one in attached photo


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## bluejets (Aug 14, 2019)

Foketry said:


> I used the original trigger, a type of CDI box, available in Amazon or Ebay has a trimmer ( blue color ) for advance adjustment, I chose the one in attached photo



Yes, as I suspected. The box as you say is the CDI unit, not the trigger.

The trigger is a coil (photo 52705750) as per original fittings.

Great but many instances there is nowhere to hide this rather large item which is why I went to hall effect and associated circuitry to compensate.

Thanks ......


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## bluejets (Aug 16, 2019)

Foketry said:


> I used the original trigger, a type of CDI box, available in Amazon or Ebay has a trimmer ( blue color ) for advance adjustment, I chose the one in attached photo



Do you have a link to where you purchased the pick up coil ( right hand side photo) ?
I can see many places where the cdi unit, ign coil and spark plug come as a kit but nowhere for the pickup coil.


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## Rudy (Aug 17, 2019)

Congratulations with a successful and absolutely stunning build. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Rudy


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## Foketry (Aug 23, 2019)

bluejets said:


> Do you have a link to where you purchased the pick up coil ( right hand side photo) ?
> I can see many places where the cdi unit, ign coil and spark plug come as a kit but nowhere for the pickup coil.



I find the complete kit on Aliexpress:

http://s.aliexpress.com/BjyyuIFN


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## bluejets (Aug 23, 2019)

Foketry said:


> I find the complete kit on Aliexpress:
> 
> http://s.aliexpress.com/BjyyuIFN



Thanks for that....had previously searched for ages with no luck.
Aliexpress not all that big or popular in Aus yet but I used your link to get to an Aus page.
Thanks again.


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## cooksservices (May 1, 2020)

Foketry said:


> I replaced TIM 6 with CDI scooter, hiding the trigger under the flywheel
> This type of CDI has the automatic advance adjustable with trimmer, my setting has excluded the automatism.
> View attachment 110622
> View attachment 110623
> View attachment 110624


Hi I am now learning about using this cdi unit. I discovered this dc cdi unit after working on a fourstroke scooter at work and I thought this would be an interesting project to see if I my could work with a distributor on my inline four engine. One thing that came to mind was the auto advance curve. I was wondering if the engine rotation direction has to be the same as the original engine that the cdi unit was from.  Would this effect the advance curve making it a retarding curve if the rotation was incorrect? Also please could you tell me how you disabled he auto advance. Many thanks!


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## Foketry (May 1, 2020)

cooksservices said:


> Hi I am now learning about using this cdi unit. I discovered this dc cdi unit after working on a fourstroke scooter at work and I thought this would be an interesting project to see if I my could work with a distributor on my inline four engine. One thing that came to mind was the auto advance curve. I was wondering if the engine rotation direction has to be the same as the original engine that the cdi unit was from.  Would this effect the advance curve making it a retarding curve if the rotation was incorrect? Also please could you tell me how you disabled he auto advance. Many thanks!



I suggest you to adjust the CDI trimmer to the minimum, anticlockwise rotation so as not to have any advance.
You choose the advance by adjusting the position of the pick up, then block its position.
The direction of rotation of the motor has no influence on  CDI, it works both anticlockwise and clockwise with the same advance.
You can test with a cordless drill, gluing a small piece of steel on the spindle with adhesive tape,
start the drill at maximum and minimum rpm very close to the pick up, and see with the stroboscopic lamp and a cardboard disc with a sign, how the CDI works.
These CDI has been designed for a single cylinder engine, if you install it on a 4 cylinder, when the engine starts, the pick up reads a multiplied number of revolutions and the advance starts even with the engine at the minimum rpm.
You can see some tests on Youtube
Good job and good day


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## cooksservices (May 1, 2020)

Foketry said:


> I suggest you to adjust the CDI trimmer to the minimum, anticlockwise rotation so as not to have any advance.
> You choose the advance by adjusting the position of the pick up, then block its position.
> The direction of rotation of the motor has no influence on  CDI, it works both anticlockwise and clockwise with the same advance.
> You can test with a cordless drill, gluing a small piece of steel on the spindle with adhesive tape,
> ...


 Thank you very much for your reply I really appreciate you sharing your experience with me. I did wonder if the advance would start very early as the cdi is seeing more triggers per revolution than the advance is designed for so it would advance earlier. Thank you again. Very helpful!


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