# Elbow Engine Running



## 1Kenny (Sep 25, 2007)

Spent the whole day to get my engine running. I was a half of a hole off on one of the air ports so it had less air going to one side of the pistons.

















Here it is running. I hope this keeps me off probation. :lol: 





I just want to thank you guys for all the help. It made building it a whole lot of fun. I really enjoy this site.

Kenny


----------



## tattoomike68 (Sep 25, 2007)

Nice job Kenny , I need to get into the shop tonight and get to building.


----------



## Bogstandard (Sep 25, 2007)

Well done Kenny.
A full pardon.
Nice looking engine as well, another one off design.

John


----------



## rake60 (Sep 25, 2007)

Great Job Kenny!

Rick


----------



## 1Kenny (Sep 26, 2007)

Thanks guys,

Took it over to a buddys garage this evening and all the mechanics got a kick out of it. We tried a few different oils while running it for over an hour. Vavoline racing oil let it run smooth, fairly slow and it seemed to run the fastest.

Now the good part. While I was there a guy came in for an oil change that I have met before. He is one of the steam engineers for the Georgetown rail road wich is about 20 miles from me. He invited me up to ride in the cab if I bring the Elbow. He would like to see it run on steam. ( Will it run on steam?) He told me the coupler size I will need to mate with their line. I would love to see what it looks like running on real steam. So I need to do a little modifying on the intake. Also, what kind of flex line should I use for steam? So it doesn't melt.


----------



## Bogstandard (Sep 26, 2007)

Hi Kenny,
When running on air, different metals usually have no problems running, but when heat is introduced in the form of steam then the different expansion rates will either allow the engine to run better than before or it may just lock up, you won't know until you try it. The oil will also make a difference, normal oil will usually be just washed away, correct steam oil (which is like runny honey) will need to be used.
A thick walled silicone fuel tube from the model shop will be able to take the heat but not too much pressure, I use a product called Redthane tubing, which is designed for making traction belts from, it has a wall thickness of about 3/16" and will take up to about 80psi. Maybe you should be looking at using a metal pipe.
The one advantage you will find if it runs on steam is you will be able to see where all your leaks are, and later maybe tighten up the dimensions a little to get a more efficient running engine.
Hope this helps and good luck.

John


----------



## 1Kenny (Oct 10, 2007)

Got what was needed for the hot lines. A local guy had some.

Today felt like a finish line crossing for the engine. This is the end result of my second engine.
















I only had to make one part over. The buffing wheel yanked it from my hand.
Kenny


----------



## Bogstandard (Oct 11, 2007)

Very nice now you have it finalised, puts mine to shame.
Have you still got the grin from getting it to run?
I have a half hour session most days to run my engines, it brings back the smiles all over again.

John


----------



## 1Kenny (Oct 11, 2007)

I think it kind of looks plain and stark. John, I liked your flywheel and cylinders, these kind of match yours. Cedge's engine has columns so this is a variation of his engine. On you-tube there is a brass engine with a round base and that was a must have. The flat where the inlet and exhause tubes go into the base is my datum line. I did fill the inlet line full of oil several times when running it in. About a half quart was used total over a couple of hours. Did someone say this is a dirty running engine? Well it sure is. I like the way it sounds when running slow. It is a thrill to watch it run.

Kenny


----------



## Bogstandard (Oct 11, 2007)

Kenny, 
I told everyone that it was a dirty engine to run, in fact when I did a display at the steam rally, I had just reoiled all my engines and started them running. The elbow engine emptied its contents in a vertical stripe up the back of a chaps jacket, luckily he was just leaving and didn't notice.
At times like that you keep your mouth shut.
So are we going to see a fourteen cylinder from you then, seeing as to how much you enjoyed making this one.

John


----------



## 1Kenny (Oct 11, 2007)

John,

I have thought quite hard about a 14 cylinder. My thinking is that the pistons would have to be longer and a larger radius on the cylinders. The big thing I would do different is run the cylinder axel on needle bearings. The one binding area that gave me fits was the bottom of the head on the axel bolts. As the air comes in the piston slot it pushes the cylinders up and would bind on the bolt head. I rounded the bolt edges and it helped. A thrust bearing on top of the cylinder would take the bind out.

The pistons are like Rake made his.


----------



## Bogstandard (Oct 11, 2007)

Kenny,
Again, great minds think alike. I also looked at the bearing placement but the problem is fitting them in.
I thought of putting a steel sleeve down the centre and machining a small cup at the top to take 1mm ball bearings, then use the underside of the bolt head as the second bearing surface, so acting like a thrust washer.
I suppose there are many types of solutions to the problems with this engine, but who cares, we got runners.

John


----------

