# The Birth of a Swan



## maury

In the not too distant past I was given a special opportunity to develop a set of castings for a very special engine. I discovered through an associate/friend/customer of mine, he had measured and had partially completed drawings for the John Swan 25hp oil field engine. At that time I had decided to make a project of developing castings for this engine, but another project under way caused some delays. Now it's time to get it on the drawing table.

The 25hp Swan is on display in the Coolspring Power Museum at present, and that is the one which was measured. By the way, if you have not visited this museum, you have not seen the
"Grand Canyon" of engines.

In this post I plan to share some of my experiences in engineering a new casting set, pattern making, and various other things one runs across when doing a project like this. 

The reason this engine is so special is that it combines elements of a very early 4 stroke engine design with elements of a more modern design. The design is a large frame horizontal side shaft engine with a long stroke relative to the bore. It uses a flyball governor for speed control, and has a cross slide. Unusually, it has both exhaust and intake valves operated by cams off the side shaft, contrasted with a hot tube ignition.

One of these engines has been restored by Craig Pucha. who has done an excellent job documenting every step of his restoration in a web site. 
http://www.antique-engine.com/swan/swan25.htm
I don't know if his is the engine at Coolspring, but it seems there are not many of these engines around.

A lot of engineering and some patterns have been completed at this point, but there is a long and interesting road ahead for this project.

I want to give my thanks to Ynze Miedema for the drawings and information he has given me and has worked so hard to produce.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## ShedBoy

I will be pulling up a chair for this one. Are you planning on doing the casting yourself or are you going to farm that out? Either way I would love to see the pattern making process.
Brock


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## steamer

As would I....

Dave


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## Harold Lee

Maury - You sure have my attention. This is a process I have only read about at a very high level. To watch it up close is going to be very interesting. Please post often.

Harold


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## maury

To start out with when I scale an engine, I look at the big picture. Mainly, what size do I want my final model to be. Then I look at the implications cast on building the model. Since it's a foregone conclusion the model will be made of iron and bronze castings, there are some foundry considerations, for example castings thinner than 3/16" are possible but almost always cause problems. Governors don't scale well, so there are trade offs to make here. The castings have to fit on my machines. Hot tubes may not work well with bore/displacement which is too small....

A lot of these questions were already somewhat resolved in the drawings I received, I just had to look over them to verify the model was buildable. 

Beginning, I looked at the side shaft. This is the single most troublesome area in the design, as all moving parts on the engine interface with it except the piston train. Getting the placement of the side shaft relative to the centerline is critical, so that was the first step. Going through the design, making dimensioned sketches of the head, rockers, side shaft bearings, timing gears... I came up with a placement. I designed a set of helical gears to fit. By the way, this engine has right handed helicals, as opposed to most other side shaft engines I'm familiar with having left handed helicals. So then it's off to the races making patterns.

First I went with making the side shaft bearing patterns. There are 3, using the same cap on each. These will be cast in bronze.


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## maury

Then I worked on the intake and exhaust cages. THese are similar, so I made one main pattern and modified it to get both shapes. I make rubber master molds from my master patterns. These are then used to make the final production molds.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## cfellows

Very interesting, Maury. Do you have a sense of how big your model will be, bore and stroke?

Chuck


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## maury

I have an exact sense of the stats on my model at this time,
2" bore, 3" stroke, 11 3/8" dia flywheels. The fuel will be propane.

To answer a previous question about doing my own casting, I use a foundry.
It is too difficult to get professional results with aluminum in a home foundry, besides,
it is not an appropriate material for this style of engine. Iron is too difficult and dangerous.
That said, I do cast bronze parts on a very limited basis, and sometimes make prototype
parts from bronze.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

There are about 25 to 30 castings planned for this engine. The way I make my patterns is to make a master pattern which accounts for shrinkage out of some appropriate material. Mostly depends on the pattern and what tools I will use to make it. THen I make what I call a master mold out of silicon rubber. This mold is then used to make the urethane pattern pieces for the foundry. There is no way to predict what a foundry will do to your pattern, so these individual patterns need to be replacable.

These are the next master patterns I worked on

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

Well, it seems not all my pictures were posted, guess I need to learn how to use this thing.

Here in the master molds you can see impressions of the master patterns. These rubber molds are more or less permenant if properly taken care of. It's a good way to preserve the design.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

I took a break from pattern making to play with my gear hobber. Wanted to check ou tmy math on making the helical gears. THey are 32dp, 15 tooth on the pinion and 30 teeth on the timing gear. I made them at 63deg. 20 min. helix for the pinion and 26 deg 40 min for the gear so they could use the same diameter blank. Fun stuff.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

Progress keeps marching on with the Swan. Lately there have been some threads about making flywheels, here's my version.

I made six wedges on my table saw, 60 deg triangles. Then I set them up in a circle, and with a compass I made two circles outlining the rim with some material to spare. After band sawing out the arcs, I glued them to a piece of plywood which had 60 deg lines plotted on it. I then mounted the plywood to and cut out the rim with an RT on my mill. I made the spoke stock with my router, cut them out and glued them in place. THen I added stock for the hub and back to the RT. A little bit of clean up and... enjoy the pictures. 

I used cherry wood and a tapered end mill to get the draft. Cherry mills nice and leaves a good finish if you climb mill.

The blue part is the actual pattern which will be mounted to the air set box and sent to the foundry.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## 1Kenny

Hi Maury,

I have been watching and have a seat in the bleachers for this too. Craig Puchas' story on restoring his Swan was enjoyable reading. Your molds look very nice. When you say rubber molds, is it a two part compound? Second is what is an air set box?

Thanks for including us with your build.

Kenny


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## nsfr1206

Is that pink mold smooth-on mold max 30?


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## maury

All, indeed, the pink stuff is Moldmax 30. I use it for all of my patterns. It is a 2 part silicon rubber, mixed 10:1 by weight. It has excellent definition and release characteristics.

An airset box is what the foundry uses to make my castings. There are numerous molding practices. on the old days all that was available was green sand. That is still used a lot, and is the least expensive way to produce castings. Air set is a method where the sand is mixed with a 2 part binder that sets and binds the sand to a very hard mold. The method requires a machine to mix the sand as it is being used, it hardens completely in 20 min, and does not flow well in just a few minutes. It generates a fair amount of heat, requiring the sand to be dumped out of the mold as soon is it is rammed. I use airset with my molds because it gives a better finish on the castings.

Attached is a picture of an airset box (drag side). It includes the patterns which I make from the urethane, the gating and a place for a ceramic filter. Also, you can see the sides make a box for the sand to create a mold. At the base there is an "upset" board where the patterns are mounted. This allows the mold to be registered very accurately, and prevents glue from entering the mold cavity when the cope and drag are glued together.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## 1Kenny

Boy howdy, Maury,

This is a 1st class education on quality pattern and mold making. Everyone should be following this. I need another soda pop and more popcorn.

Kenny


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## maury

Well, all that work on the patterns is starting to pay off a little bit. I did a bronze pour this morning, and made some prototype castings for checking out my drawings and the correctness of the patterns. There are 5 castings for the governor, 6 for the side shaft bearings, and I added the mixer and intake valve cage so the butterfly can be checked out. One of the side shaft castings failed, it was too far from the sprue, will have to work on my gating a bit. I made a casting for the 1/8 NPT street ell, it seems these are getting difficult to find, easy to make.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

Well, I know there has been a bit of a dry spell since my last post here. I've been busy in the shop and coming up to speed with AutoCad. I have finally completed the first pattern set to be sent to the foundry for iron castings. It includes the bed plate, main bearing caps, 5 castings for the cross slide, head, valve cages and a hot tube chimney. THis will give me enough castings to verify the design for the crank& rod fit, the side shaft fit ( lots of stuff here) the rocker arms, and I can play with the hot tube a bit.

On the Auto Cad side, first pass drawings for the side shaft assembly, governor, mixer, & valve cages as well as the bed plate are done. There is a good bit of work to do on all of these yet, but they are detailed enough to build a prototype. 

Now to clean up the shop and prepare for the castings. Machining the first engine will be the fun part.

Pictures are of the first air set boxes and the 5 core boxes. Believe it or not, this represents a lot of work.


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## maury

With the pattern at the foundry and waiting for castings, I thought I'd start with some of the parts I have. My first goal is to verify the fitting of the side Shaft and all of the associated parts. This is probably the most critical part. The side shaft is supported by three bearing blocks which must be aligned in all 3 dimensions for non binding operation. Additionally, the design of the bearing blocks makes for precarious setup and machining. I decided to make a jig to aid in the critical alignment parts. The jig is simple, to use in a vice which has been squared up on the milling table. Additionally, the initial machining is aided by the use of two precision vices.

First, (first Pic)I hold the casting in the small vice a precisely as possible to get it aligned with the dimensions, and clean up a surface. This will be the reference surface, almost always a must have when working with castings. The bearing cap, already cleaned up. is then super glued ( I cheat too) on to the bearing block. Bolt holes drilled & tapped.

The small vise is then re-positioned, note keeping things square, then the bearing hole is reamed. (2nd pict)

Now for the fun part ( 3rd pict). Removing the bearing cap and installing the bearing casting on the jig, and installing the jig in the vise at 45 deg. the rear side of the casting is cut and the mounting holes drilled. What the jig does is to hold the part with the reference surface aligned parallel to the x,y on the mill, but also aligns the bore of the bearing with the mills x,y. 

4'th pict, the finished part.

The jig, Pict 5. Just square up a piece of stock, ream a hole square with one of the sides the size of the shaft, and mill the end down to 1/2 the diameter of the hole. Make a couple of clamps and add the hold down screws, easy as pie.

Hope this long winded explination wasn't too boring.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

Got limited out, here's the 5'th pic.
maury


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## cfellows

So how are you going to keep those aligned when you install them, clamp all three to a long straight rod?

Chuck


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## maury

Chuck, two of the 3 brackets mount to the bed plate, I will be using my DRO on the mill to locate the mounting holed for those. Hope that works. id not I'll have to use pins. The third bracket mounts under the head. That one is a bit more tricky, but it doesn't have the 45 deg offset for the cap. Haven't gotten there yet.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## JorgensenSteam

Great photo sequence Maury, thanks for showing that.

Very nice castings, I know how much work goes into patterns.

Pat J


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## maury

Y'all, a big day for the Swan. I got the first group of iron castings back from the foundry today, it looks like the mold went well and the cores fit well. Registration is very good, minimal core issues, a little flashing, but the mold closed properly. I'm excited! Can't wait to make chips to check the parts fit and drawing details, but most of that will have to wait until after the holidays. The first picture is the bed plate and main bearing caps. Second one is the cross slide, rails and guides. Third is the head and cylinder liner. Incedently, I cut the water jacket out of tubing, machined and went to friend to get some welding dine on it. Fourth pict is of the valve cages, covers and the hot tube chimney. The hot tube is done. but I will use spark ignition for the first startup.

I will try to restrain myself when machining the bed plate to show my method. THis has been discussed before on this board, but one cannot over state the importance of getting things lined up accurately on the bed plate.

Enjoy the picts

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## myrickman

Nice work! I have seen the Swann at Coolspring and she is impressive- your model seems to be doing the old girl justice.


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## Lamachina58

I am trying to follow along as you go but one question, in the air boxes what is the blue material? Does is coat the cavity for release? Is is applied then hand worked away? Thanks for sharing the photos! And are you modeling this in solid models as well?


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## cfellows

great looking set of castings, Maury. Did you just do one set or several?

Chuck


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## maury

Y'all, thanks for the kind words.

'58, the blue stuff in the air set box is the actual pattern for the part. It's cast out of urethane and is replacable in the box. In case the foundry damages one of the patterns it can be replaced without trashing the whole box. In my case, if there is a modification I can replace a pattern without disturbing the rest of the mold.

I had two sets made, these are reasonably expensive castings and I need to verify they are good before getting too many. I'll clean up and machine one set and keep the other as a record of the exact imprint in the mold in case there need be modifications.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## Lamachina58

I think I get it. You make a master pattern then a rubber cast that you can put the polyeurethane in, the blue stuff. Is that repro30? I have been an injection mold maker for many years and only once had to do this many gyrations and that was to copy and make a four cavity s7 toolsteel mold of an actual velociraptor claw from the museum of the Rockies . What was crazy was accounting for all the shrink factors. You aren't mentioning that yet but I am facinated by casting and i never realized how many tricks there are to it. And really the amount of work to get to the point of casting the poly. I can see the desire for backing up your work with the copy in blue poly. Something we can't afford to do in injection molds. Very nice work and your casting sets look great.


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## Lamachina58

I'm sorry is the Urethane like dynacast? The repro is the rubber we used. This woke me up like a bad dream! The other thing that Maury is doing so well is getting a smooth urethane part in the end. Now what I recall from my amateur experience with the silcone and urethane was air bubbles . Maury , do you have a vacuum involved with both as well?
Sorry I have so many questions but it is amazing when you see what goes in to a cast iron part. Thanks,
Tom


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## maury

'58, Thanks for the interest, I don't mind the questions.

The silicon rubber I use is MoldMax 30. I do not have a vaccum system, do I pour the rubber in a thin stream from about 12" above the mold. This allows a smooth surface to flow over the pattern (quite slowly) breaking most of the bubbles. There are always small bubbles embedded in the final mold, but these don't seem to harm anything.

The urethane I use is Repro 83. It comes in a variety of colors. The foundry
adds a coat of Zip Slip to the entire mold, giving it a silvery color, and allowing the sand
to slide out as smoothly as possible.

THe shrink factor is built into the master pattern. As you probably know, Repro 83 and Mold Max 30 have very minimal shrink factors, and we are not worried about very small error. With sand casting, there is always going to be a small error introduced just because of the production process.

Have you made molds for wax investment casting?

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## Lamachina58

Thanks Maury . I had no one to help when I did my claw project and this would have been such a help. The end result went to 3M and was cast in a sintered s7. That also had about 17% shrink. I did make a couple lost wax molds for bronze tailpieces for weber mandolins. That is much more like injection molds which I have made hundreds of. I'll let you get back to work and I am glad you don't mind the questions I think I get the idea this is certainly an art!


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## maury

OK, the holidays are over and back to the shop. I started cleaning up the bed plate, and stopped after the bottom was done. I ordered a piece of steel to mount it on, so while I'm waiting for it to come in I started on the head and associated parts. These parts are mostly generic work, no really tough spots.

I did add a pict of the intake cage being drilled because there is an angle and it may be helpful to see it. The angle is not really critical, so I used a 30 deg drafting triangle to set up the part in a vise. The other interesting thing I did, since the hole is at an angle was to make a flat bottom
counter drill with an end mill so the drill will not fight me on the way in.

The head was machined out on the lathe to get the bore and ends faced. THen I made the bolt circle and the water passage holes on the RT. Note the plastic centering and sacrificial material part under the head. After centering the RT it is often inconvenient to center the work above it, thus the plastic. It's also reusable.

I finished the exhaust valve cage and show a pict of the assembly. I use SST threaded rod to make studs, then I make nuts from SST hex stock for the assembly. That way I can get the old fashioned, more authentic look with the taller pattern nuts.

maury


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## maury

Here is a nifty little gadget made when I first started the hobby. I got the ides from the one of Lautards Bedside Readers. Highly recommended reading.

THe block is most useful for holding small parts that don't work well in a vice. I also made a set of small hold downs which use 8-32 SHMS for tightening. THis setup has server me well over the years, and if out don't have one you should take the time to make one. Well worth the time and cost.

Here we see one of the side shaft bearings for the Swan being machined. This one does not have the 45 deg angle for the cap.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

I started on the bed plate. There are 5 major setups for this casting. THe bottom cleanup, cross slide, main bearings, side shaft & mains, and the front bonnet. I am making a plate to mount the casting to aid in these setups, as each setup uses the engine centerline as the datum reference. Also, it's a good idea to have the parts which mount to the bed plate machined or at least roughed out with the mating surfaces cut to print, before the bed plate is begun.

THe first pict is of the main bearing caps and the cross slide parts. These are roughed out, as theere will be machining steps after they are mounted.

Next I made the plate. I used a 1.2" steel bar a inch or two wider and longer than the casting. Cleaned up and squared the ends. The sides were already clean. I centered the casting and drilled & reamed the bed plate mounting bolt pattern. Here I used 3/16 dowel pins and will drill the bed plate 3/16. The holes in the bed plate will be enlarged to print later. This provides a good slide free mounting for the bed plate which can be squared with the machine with repeatable accuracy for the 5 setups.

Setting this stuff aside, I made the setup for cleaning up the bottom of the bed plate. This step sets the position of the machined surfaces within the casting, and requires careful layout and measurements to get the casting positioned so the machined features will later be in the correct place relative the cast features.
Later you will note a number on the side of the casting. THis represents the distance from the machined bottom of the casting and the centerline. A number you will want to have available, since in this case it's a little more than the prints call for.

Next the casting is mounted on the plate and set up in the mill to rough out the cross slide bed. Since this casting set is in development and there were a few problems with the core for the top part of the casting a few things will look unusual. The right side of the casting has too much metal, and to get the cross slide to fit per print, that will have to be removed. The bed rails are also a little short, and a modification will have to be implemented for that. The goal is to install the cross slide per print.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

Ok, it's time for the cross slide.

I often layout a part with dye to help avoid mistakes when machining. I use the lines as a sanity check for my cuts, and use the dials or DRO for accuracy.

Laying out the cross slide is more or less strait forward. 

The cross slide is machined where it fits the rails, and checked for fit. The fit is nice, smooth sliding with a hint of drag. The piston rod hole and the con rod bearing holes will be machined later after making sure there weren't any off dimension issues so far. The piston rod has to be on dead center or it will bind.

Last, just a look at how it will all fit together. 

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## idahoan

Maury

This is really an interesting project and very nice work; I remember years ago following along When Craig Prucha restored the 25hp Swan. Craig's web site hasn't been updated for years; I'm not sure why.

Looking forward to more updates to the Swan Build.

Dave


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## maury

Dave, this is a very interesting project to me too. I would much rather build a new engine than one of the highly advertised popular ones. Additionally, the Swan has a lot of unique features and challenges.

As far as Craig Pruchas web site goes, I think it's a bit like New York cheese cake. Anything added to or taken away from it will make it less excellent. 

maury


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## maury

Next thing is to add the bearing caps to the base. They will be bored later, but a setup at 15 deg is necessary to assemble them to the base. The inside and outside dimensions will also be machined.

The setup is on a tilt table which has been squared with the bed. 

The bed plate is cut to dimension, then the holes are drilled and tapped.

The inside and outside dimensions are cut. Note the roughing end mill. I like to use these to get close to the number, then switch over to a conventional end mill. That keeps them sharp longer.


Then the final assembly is shown.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

Well, things are progressing, but I'm getting a bit behind on my posting. 
I spent a day ramming molds and pouring a few castings. The rocker patterns needed some touching up, and the lettering problem for the head cover was solved. I have a simple setup, but it works well for making a few prototype bronze castings.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

THe next job on the base was to machine the bonnet. I think this is the most fun I've had with my DRO since I've gotten it. Two bolt circles and a few other misc holes.

maury


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## idahoan

Maury

Another great update; and the bronze castings turned out real nice. Will they eventually be cast in iron or will you stick with bronze. If and when castings become available this will be one that I just may need to add to the project list.

Dave


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## maury

Thanks for the kind words. 

My initial intention was to have most of the smaller parts made from the 85-5-5-5 bronze alloy, the rest being C.I. My last trip to the foundry may have changed that. THe EPA and OSHA have been exerting immense pressure on my foundry to quit pouring leaded bronze, which 85-5-5-5 is (5% lead), THis alloy is is my favorite choice because of it's beautiful patina, it's excellent machining characteristics, and it's excellent bearing qualities. They want me to use silicon bronze, which pours nice, has no lead, BUT, it's a nightmare in the shop. Not acceptable! It looks like most of the castings will be C.I., except for those which can't (ie the governor balls). I may explore some of the brass alloys, so things are still not set.

No ETA on the kit, this is a hobby for me, and I'm taking my time.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

I've been working for the past week or so on the smaller parts and fitting them and some of the sub assemblies to the base plate. I have machined the rocker castings and the mount bracket, have a completed governor, made a crank, and finished the sideshaft and bearings. At this point I have machined all of the castings except the flywheels, and have at least a first pass of the drawings in correction.

Here are some photos of what the engine looks like so far. Still a lot of work to do.

Will be working on the corrections to the patterns and the drawings to get everything up to date.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

The rest of the photos. Note the nylon gears on the governor. Metal gears of that size were not available at the time so I went with nylon for the prototype. I believe brass gears are available now.

maury


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## JorgensenSteam

That it turning out to be a very nice engine Maury.

Great castings, I like those a lot.


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## cfellows

That's really turning out to be a beautiful engine, Maury. Really admire your work on this!

Chuck


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## metalmad

cfellows  said:
			
		

> That's really turning out to be a beautiful engine, Maury. Really admire your work on this!
> 
> Chuck


What He Said
Pete


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## maury

Y'all, thanks for the kind words. As you can see there is still plenty of work. I will be working on getting the final patterns ready, and fixing the issues I have found with the castings and drawings while machining what I have so far. Probably will be off the grid for a while, so check back in a week or two. 

I see there is another hot tube engine on the forum now, perhaps hot tube engines are making a come back. 

I'm also trying to figure out how I can get to NAMES this spring, sure would like to go and bring my stuff. It's a hard two day drive from Texas though.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

The patterns are at the foundry, and so while I'm waiting for the new castings I have tome to clean up a few loose ends. The governor design needed some tweaks, so I started on a new one. I have made castings of the balls including the tails so they could be made without soldering or threading and gluing. 

I use a small holding jig I made to position a ball in the vice and allow the three setup angles needed. The balls turned out very close dimentionally, and the good news is no chuck or vice trauma. It holds the ball like a clam shell. Initially, the ball is set up in the jig with the features squared up, then it's tightened in. Set up in the vice is then a piece of cake.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

Other parts of the governor were made previously, mostly lathe work. A couple of parts to go, but so far I like it. 

maury


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## idahoan

Comming along nicely Maury!
Good to see the progress.

Thanks for the update,
Dave


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## maury

Continuing on while waiting for the castings, I made the Con Rod. For this engine, the con rod is a whole project in its self, but that detail is what makes the difference in the final look. 

The bearing bronzes are squeezed together by 1.5 deg wedges between a pressure plate and the body of the rod its self. So I decided to make a tool to help me make sure I have the same angle everywhere. Using it is as simple as setting it between the jaws of a vise, and pushing the work tightly against the tool as the jaws are tightned. pushing the part against it while tightening the jaws. Then milling off the top to get the angle. Hope that's clear, if not, ask. It's more or less the same for the angle slot on the rod body.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## Maryak

Beautiful work maury. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## maury

The new castings have been back for about a week now, and things are moving along. I made another head with the new modifications, and everything seems to be good. Working on another bed plate, as there were several issues with that, they seem to be solved as well. 
So, the flywheels are new. I make a lot of tooling to aid the building of my engines, and the flywheels are no exception. I have a large faceplate for my LeBlond lathe which I update for each new flywheel size I encounter. The first picture is of the new tooling I added to it. The bars on there ofset the flywheel from the faceplate, and allow it to rest against the inner rim. Turning it that way helps the inner rim yo be wobble free. Also, the bars are turned so the inside diameter of the outer rim rests closely, getting the inside of the outer rim concentric. The centering bars are each located with 2 dowel pins and a bolt. I added clamps to the centering bars to clamp against the flywheel rim t hold it in place, second picture. Off to making chips on the third picture. Finally the flywheel bore for the hub is interesting on this engine. It is tapered, and has a tapered hub that is bolted on. The bolts when tightened squeeze the inner hub against the crank shaft. A nice feature about this method is not only does it hold very well, but any wobble in the flywheel may be adjusted out by adjusting the bolts.

maury


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## maury

More work on the flywheels on the Swan. After tapering the flywheels, I wanted to make the bushings in the same setup. I used the compound for making the tapers, and the same taper is needed on the compression bushings. I turned down a piece of steel, and reamed the bore, Picture 1, then put on the taper Picture 2. Then I cut off the taper and faced the back off with my other lathe. Then I moved over to the mill and setup the bushing in the flywheel and set up the bolt circle on the DRO. This is the fun part, the DRO is really a joy to use this way. I drilled the bolt holes (picture 3), and finally tapped the flywheel( picture 4.)
More in the next post.

maury


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## maury

Then. on to completing the compression bushings. Next I broached the keyway,(picture 1). This is a bit tricky, as the key sets the position of the flywheel rotationally with the crank. Since there is a cast in counter weight this needs to be on target. I aligned the intake side flywheel first, marked the bushing, and broached it. Ob the exhaust side, the counter weight must be aligned, but also the spokes need to be aligned on both flywheels fro appearance. 

Then came the slotting. For the compression bushings to work, they must have clearance to compress against the crank shaft. I have to say, this method of mounting a flywheel is the most rigid method I've seen so far on a model. It really holds 'em on tight. I made a tool for holding the bushings for slotting, but forgot to take a picture, let me know if anyone is interested in seeing it. (Picture 2)

Then, the finished bushings (picture3)

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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## maury

Y'all, at long last the Swan model is finally built. All of the things that fit tight and little tweaks have been made. It is currently in start-up mode. Everything is tight and needs to be worn in, so at this time it's not running. BUT! Here are some pictures for everyone to enjoy while I work on getting the Swan running. I plan to take it to NAMES in a couple of weeks, hope to see some of you there.

Maury


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## maury

More Pictures.

maury


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## maury

And finally, a picture of the 36 castings.

maury


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## b.lindsey

That is some fine work maury!! What a beautiful engine. Sorry I won't be at NAMES to see it running, but hopefully you will post a video once its up and running to your satisfaction. Very well done!!!

Bill


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## cfellows

Wow, you've been busy! That's beautiful Maury. Are you going to bring it to show and tell next week?

Chuck


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## idahoan

Nice Job Maury,

I bet it will as nice as it looks; any plans to to make the hot tube functional?

Thanks for sharing your progress,
Dave


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## moconnor

Hello Maury,

Wonderful work on the Swan, congratulations on completing such a unique and beautiful engine. Many, many thanks for posting your progress. Especially, the development of your patterns which was very informative. I will look forward to seeing the engine at N.A.M.E.S. and meeting you in person.

Are you planning to bring your Monarch Corliss engine with you? I would love to get some pictures of it.

Thanks again for all of your efforts. Well done!

Regards,
Mike


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## vcutajar

Maury

Congratulations on a beautiful engine.

Vince


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## Mike N

Maury,

Great job on the Swan!

Mike N.


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## maury

Guys, thanks for the kind words, and thanks to those who participated in this thread. THere is still some work to do, another modeler is building with these castings also, and will be working on the hot tube version while I get the spark version running properly. I have neglected too many household chores for way too long while building this model, so I will probably have to set the model aside until after I return from the NAMES show.

I also plan to make videos of this (and others) of my engines, but I have a hump to get over. I can capture the video and know how to post it, but I have not learned how to edit it. Anyone have ideas/help along those lines?

Chuck, I probably won't be able to make it to the show-N-tell, but maybe I can have an open shop sometime this summer.

maury
www.lonestarengineworks.com


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