# Peewee V4



## stevehuckss396 (Nov 21, 2008)

I have been working on the late Bob Shores Peewee V4 for 6 or so months. I have all the castings machined. I am slowly working on finishing the heads. I guesstimate being 25% finished with only 95 % to go!!


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## rake60 (Nov 21, 2008)

Please keep us posted on your progress Steve.

Beautiful work on the V8 as well! :bow:

Rick


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## b.lindsey (Nov 21, 2008)

Equally impressive Steve. Please keep the pictures coming as progress continues.

Bill


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 21, 2008)

That is pretty cool Steve. Keep the build pictures coming.

Eric


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## dsquire (Nov 21, 2008)

Very impressive Steve. I'll be watching for updates as they come.

cheers

Don


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## Mcgyver (Nov 22, 2008)

thats a neat little engine, keep the pics comming


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## tel (Nov 22, 2008)

In a word *NICE!*


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## T70MkIII (Nov 27, 2008)

I can't wait to see more, Steve. I want to build a multi-cylinder soon so I am trying to absorb as much as possible. Looking great so far.


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 27, 2008)

T70MkIII  said:
			
		

> I can't wait to see more, Steve. I want to build a multi-cylinder soon so I am trying to absorb as much as possible. Looking great so far.



I have finished the valve cages, valves, and retainers. As soon as the rockers are on the head i will update with some photos.


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## Maryak (Nov 27, 2008)

I,m with Tel ---- Very Nice :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 29, 2008)

Incredible work Steve. I'll be watching this build. I saved your pictures in my "Not to be believed" file   . I show stuff in there to my friends especially those that aren't in this hobby. 

Cheers,
Phil


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 9, 2008)

Philjoe5  said:
			
		

> I'll be watching this build.



I should have had the heads done by now but I made the rocker arms wrong. I started a new batch with a completely new design. Easier to make and more interesting to look at. If I dont screw these up, there should be some photo's by the weekend.


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## rleete (Dec 9, 2008)

What's the car that the engine is sitting on? Is that a Morgan?


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 9, 2008)

rleete  said:
			
		

> What's the car that the engine is sitting on? Is that a Morgan?



It's a 1928 Ford. She goes out for a ride now and then but to unleash all 35 horsepower on the neighbors is just unfair.


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## rleete (Dec 9, 2008)

Nice. My dad and I restored old cars years ago. We rebuilt a '62 Studebaker Lark that dad drove as his daily transport for years. Now he's got a 1964 Avanti sitting in the garage, still awaiting completion.

I'm a bit of a car nut, but unheated garage + NY winters = indoor hobby. Model engines fits the bill.


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 13, 2008)

Finally moving forward. Rockers are not perfect but they make me happy. Guess thats part of learning. The heads are complete so I think the cam is next.


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 25, 2008)

Camshaft went well. I developed a system for cutting all the lobes at the same time. I took the Bob Shores method but modified the cam fixture to allow my cutoff tool clearance so all 8 lobes could be cut at the same time. I made a spread sheet so i would know what lobe to cut and at what degree angle. The method worked well and I completed all the cuts in 3 hours. Including making the blank and filing and polishing the nose of the lobe, it took less than 5 hours to get this far.


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## ksouers (Dec 25, 2008)

Steve,
That's an interesting cam fixture. Could you give more details about it, please?

Lots of interesting work on this engine. Following closely...


Thanks,
Kevin


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 25, 2008)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Steve,
> That's an interesting cam fixture. Could you give more details about it, please?



It is a modified version of the fixture that comes with the Peewee plans. I thing Dick Upsure used the same method. All it does is hold the cam off center the same amount as the flank radius of the lobe. In this case .521 inches. As the fixture swings the cam, a cut the depth of the desired lift is made. Then the cam is rotated 5 degrees and another cut is made. Enough of these cuts and a lobe starts to form.

I have been trying to write a paper on the procedure, but after reading it, I confused myself. It needs work in the form of illistrations. It is one of those things that you can write down and it's confusing, but if you were in the garage for 10 minutes you would catch on. It's alot easier to show you than tell you. It's a work I plan to finish.


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## kustomkb (Dec 25, 2008)

Thats fantastic work!

Very nice cam fixture. Are the brass bushings split? How many times do you index each lobe?

Thanks,

Merry Christmas!

Kevin.


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 25, 2008)

kustomkb  said:
			
		

> Thats fantastic work!
> 
> Very nice cam fixture. Are the brass bushings split? How many times do you index each lobe?
> 
> ...



The brass bushings are not split but there is no reason why you could'nt. The bushings are bored or reamed to .001 larger than the cam. When the set screw is snugged the bushing ovals/pinches the cam very well. I had no problem with them slipping. The front of the cam still had a good polish on it so zero damage to the cam itself.


I have a spread sheet that tells me when to cut, and not cut each lobe. I make one revolution every 5 degrees and all 8 lobes are addressed at the same time. The number of cuts to a lobe depends on your desired duration. The more cuts the less duration. 

I made the blank, cut all the lobes, and hand filed the nose of the lobes round and polished everything in 4.5 hours.

The fixture was another couple hours but i think i can recycle it when/if i build the Hercules and Silver Bullet.


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## Maryak (Dec 25, 2008)

Steve,

That's one very nice camshaft, never having made a cam, I don't understand what's doing what. Are you using the saddle and cutting along the lathe axis or is it some kind of copy mechanism ??? ???

Help me out Please  :

Best Regards
Bob


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 25, 2008)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Steve,
> 
> That's one very nice camshaft, never having made a cam, I don't understand what's doing what. Are you using the saddle and cutting along the lathe axis or is it some kind of copy mechanism ??? ???
> 
> ...



The fixture just holds the blank off center.


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 26, 2008)

I dont/wont ever mean to blow off anybodys questions. I am here to share freely everything I have learned from others and my own trials and tribulations.

In regards to the cam making, I have been trying for a few weeks now, to prepare a document that would explain how I went about it. I am getting close to liking the document. When it is finished, I will post the file in the correct place here at HMEM for anybody who would like to view it.

The camshaft is finished and installed. The rear distributor gear was bored to a press fit. After pressing the gear on, the outer diameter of the gear was turned to diameter and the bearing was pressed onto the gear. The front bearing and timing gear are a slip fit. The timing gear was modified to fit inside the cover so the set screw hole was spotted with an end mill, Redrilled on a 20 degree angle, and retapped. All worked out well and the gears mesh very nice with no noticeable lash.


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## Maryak (Dec 26, 2008)

Thanks for all your efforts :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## T70MkIII (Dec 27, 2008)

Beautiful work, Steve! I too am looking forward to reading your camshaft procedures. Thanks in advance.


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## Maryak (Dec 28, 2008)

Steve,

I have just downloaded and read your camshaft document.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




In a word BRILLIANT :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
I know I and I'm sure many others are and will be very grateful for your effort.

Best Regards
Bob


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## tmuir (Dec 28, 2008)

I'm forever amazed at the incredible work I see on this forum.
Absolutely brilliant work.
I think that is what I love so much about this forum is that complete beginners like me can rub shoulders with seasons experts and get great advice and help.

Keep up the great work.


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## T70MkIII (Dec 28, 2008)

Thank you very much for this Steve; an awesome body of work.


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## ksouers (Dec 28, 2008)

Steve,
Just read your camshaft document. Great write up! A simple and elegant solution for turning cams.

Thanks a bunch :bow:


Kevin


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## Metal Mickey (Dec 28, 2008)

A public well done and thanks, Steve.

Mike (alias Metal Mickey)


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 28, 2008)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> A public well done and thanks, Steve.
> 
> Mike (alias Metal Mickey)



Thanks guys, Glad I could make a contribution. hope it helps someone.


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## kustomkb (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks for taking the time to share such a great tutorial.
Now to digest it all and put it to use. ;D


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 30, 2008)

I made the distributor. When I made the main body, I chickened out and made the bottom boss .050 shorter than the drawing. Then I inserted the shaft with the gear on it and found a .042 gap so i made a .040 washer from brass. The gears mesh very nice. 

I also made the rotor and cap from a clear acrylic rod I had laying around. The #1 son thought it would be cool if you could see the spark jumping through the cap. Also a great aid when troubleshooting ignition problems.


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## stevehuckss396 (Dec 30, 2008)

I love not working! I haven't made this much progress in months.

Started on the water pump. Made the main body and the 2 gears. Tommorrow I will make the mount/rear plate and gasket. And maybe the pulley if there is time.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 1, 2009)

The water pump is complete. I have no idea where I am going from this point. Will take a day or two to decide.


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## Maryak (Jan 1, 2009)

You do beautiful work - I'm envious. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 1, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> You do beautiful work - I'm envious. :bow: :bow: :bow:
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob



I polished the pump so it would hide the fact that i dropped it. Had to get the dinger out of it. Now keeping it nice will be a full time job.


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## T70MkIII (Jan 2, 2009)

The polished brass does look really nice against the ally. Great progress, and awesome attention to detail, Steve.


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## the engineer (Jan 4, 2009)

thanks for the down load great info i wish i had that when i did the sealion cam a few years ago


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## Metal Mickey (Jan 5, 2009)

Really good that this forum attracts people like yourself Steve. I for one am learing a lot here. Its the best engineering club I know of and no big bar bills! Sorted. :bow: :bow:


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## cfellows (Jan 7, 2009)

Steve,

I was looking at the picture of your crankshaft. Pretty impressive! Did you carve that out of a solid chunk of steel? How big was the original bar? Did you use the mill to hog some of it out or did you do the whole thing on the lathe? 

Chuck


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 7, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Steve,
> 
> I was looking at the picture of your crankshaft. Pretty impressive! Did you carve that out of a solid chunk of steel? How big was the original bar? Did you use the mill to hog some of it out or did you do the whole thing on the lathe?
> 
> Chuck



Both machines were used.

I tried to post pictures but they are too large. I will resize and post pictures with explainations later. Going out to paint the Peewee right now. Give me a few hours!!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 7, 2009)

OK, I'm back!

The crankshaft started out as a 3/4 X 1" bar. I use square stock because it makes it alot easier to do things like drill the center drilled holes at the end. Also easier to flip and flop the crank for the milling stuff.

I did all the turning, then milled the counterweights out, then back to the lathe to part off the ends and thread the tail.


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## cfellows (Jan 7, 2009)

Thanks, Steve. That's quite a job. Great result.

Chuck


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## T70MkIII (Jan 7, 2009)

Steve, what type of steel did you use for the crankshaft?

Great looking work, as always.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 11, 2009)

T70MkIII  said:
			
		

> Steve, what type of steel did you use for the crankshaft?
> 
> Great looking work, as always.




The plan called out 1018 CRS and that is what i used. Went to the local supplier and bought a slice just to make sure i had the correct stuff. If i grab a chunck from under the bench, I never really know what i have. I cant tell the difference.



Just to let ya know, I am still working on the Peewee from time to time. Did a paint job last week and after 3 days drying time I made a dry fit of some of the pieces that are ready. Tried to press in the dip stick tube and bent it so that will be the next piece. I have also made a "test" connecting rod and measured my deck height. Now i know what length i need to get my compression ratio to 6.5:1 with a .030 gasket. If i go to a .010 gasket it will boost me to 7.5:1. Connecting rods and rings will be the highest priority after the dipstick tube.


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## T70MkIII (Jan 12, 2009)

Thanks, Steve - looks awesome in black with the contrasting parts.


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## deere_x475guy (Jan 28, 2009)

Fantastic Steve, looking at the work on this board is sure driving me to get back to it asap.


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## Metal Mickey (Jan 29, 2009)

Looking good Steve. Did you get much response to the cam article? Mike


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 29, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> Looking good Steve. Did you get much response to the cam article? Mike




I have had some private chats with a few guys. Mostly positive comments and a few who needed a little more information. I hope people will find it helpful.


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## deere_x475guy (Jan 29, 2009)

Steve, I found it very helpful and my head is still fuzzed over from all the fantastic pain killers I am on. I know once I actually start a hands on it will work out for me.

Bob


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## steamer (Feb 7, 2009)

Steve,

That's awesome! Totally missed this build post...not any more! :bow:

Now I just need to read it!

Dave



on edit DONE!.....NICCCCCCCCCCE!
That water pump is just what I need....
Dave


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## Cliff (Feb 7, 2009)

Steve 
  Just wanted to chime in with the rest and comment on how awesome this build is. I have been a machinist since the early 70's but had to retire a while back but builds like this is what makes me want to get out in my shop this spring and start my first engine. I did have a question I looked through this thread a couple of times but couldn't find the article that you wrote on how you made that cam shaft could you put it in again or tell me where it is for I would very much like to read it. Again thanks for a fantastic build. Cliff


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 7, 2009)

Cliff  said:
			
		

> I did have a question I looked through this thread a couple of times but couldn't find the article that you wrote on how you made that cam shaft could you put it in again or tell me where it is for I would very much like to read it. Again thanks for a fantastic build. Cliff



Hello Cliff!

I just sent the cam info to your yahoo mail box.

I'm glad you feel inspired by the peewee. I wish i was more inspired but it has been very cold and i work outside all day. Cant seem to drag myself out to the shop after i get home.

I did make it out there today. Made the head gaskets and a new dipstick tube. I really need to get going on the rods and rings. Tommorrow i'm going to make the fixture to get the rods going. Or maybe the intake manifold . . . .


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 13, 2009)

I have finally made some progress. 

The connecting rods are of the H beam type. I added a tail of sorts to splash the oil up into the rod bearing. The tail has a .045 hole running up to the bearing hole that will be transfered to the bearing. The bearing will have a small groove in it also.

Next will be bearings.


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## steamer (Feb 13, 2009)

Hi Steve,

ETW uses that technique too. He also used a windage tray formed as a circular shaped tray with holes at the bottom mounted on standoffs on in the crankcase sump.

The tray was mounted such that it was very close to the tail of the conrod as it swung by.

By adding a hole at the bottom of the tray and making sure the oil level was always higher than the hole, but not over the top of the tray, oil would flow up into the tray and be wiped off by the tail of the conrod. The remainder of the tray kept the oil below in the sump. The "Seal" used this.

Probably do the same for the mine too....just about as simple as a pile of rocks :

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 13, 2009)

I did not know that. The Shores design just had the rod dip into the oil and splash it all over. I was hoping the rod would do the splashing and the wiper would feed the bearing.

This is a picture of Bob Shutt's rods. They are very close to the original designThere is supposed to be a screw that holds the wrist pin in. I hate to think what would happen if one of those screws gets away. My wrist pins will be pressed into the rod and float in the piston


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 15, 2009)

I have all the reciprocating/rotating goodies done. I have ordered a scale so i can start the process of weight matching and balancing. The rings were stretched and heated like in the Bob Shores "engine building tips" file.


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## deere_x475guy (Feb 15, 2009)

Looking good Steve!!! Man where do you find the time to do all of this?


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 15, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> Looking good Steve!!! Man where do you find the time to do all of this?



Wasn't that bad. With that fixture, the rods went pretty fast. I had the pistons made a while ago when the cylinders were lapped.

The rings took about 20 minutes. Turn outside. Drill and bore inside. 
Face and move over.059 and part off. 
Face and move over.059 and part off. 

I am waiting for a scale to balance the ratating assembly so i might take a crack at the intake manifold.


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## steamer (Feb 16, 2009)

Looking great Steve!

Did you do the Trimble method for the rings?...or something else?

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Looking great Steve!
> 
> Did you do the Trimble method for the rings?...or something else?
> 
> Dave



I used the Bob Shores method. Most people scoff at his way of making rings but after reading his tip, I had to laugh.

"Much has been written about producing pistons and rings. I have tried every method I am aware of. One thing I have learned is that when someone starts to tell me how to make piston rings, I stop him and ask him to crank up his multi cylinder engine. If there is smoke in the exhaust, I ask why he did not make a good set of rings for his own engine."

Bob Shores

Time will tell. If they dont work, I'll try something else.


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## steamer (Feb 16, 2009)

there would appear to be great wisdom there.....

I on the other hand will be happy if it runs! ;D

Dave


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## Metal Mickey (Feb 17, 2009)

Looking forward to seeing it run, smoke or no smoke! but seeing your work and approach I would forecast no smoke (although a little shows its going through and it has to bed in doesn't it?) and the smell.......ahhhhhhhhh 8)


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## steamer (Feb 20, 2009)

Steve,

The bearings are bronze and have a circular groove in them? correct?

Curious......check my post in the slinger thread

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 20, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Steve,
> 
> The bearings are bronze and have a circular groove in them? correct?
> 
> ...



That is correct. I took a piece of round stock and slit it with a saw right down the middle. Took it to the lathe and parted the now 2 pieces off. Then i soft soldered the 2 pieces together and chucked them in a 4 jaw. After the bushing was done you just heat with a torch to split the bushing in 2 pieces. When i made the second one I just chucked the 2 pieces in the 4 jaw without the solder. Works just as good but you need to mark the bushing because when you part it off, the 2 pieces go flying. You want to make sure the 2 halfs go back together the way they were cut.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 21, 2009)

Made progress today in the form of an intake manifold. Took about 5 hours with a lunch break in there.


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## deere_x475guy (Feb 21, 2009)

Steve looking great!


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## Maryak (Feb 21, 2009)

Magnificent Steve :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb (Feb 21, 2009)

Looks awesome!


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 21, 2009)

Thanks guys!

Just looking over the drawings for the carburetor. I think I might try to tackle the body of the carb tomorrow if i have a piece of brass in stock.


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## steamer (Feb 22, 2009)

Looking good Steve!

Keep at it!

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 22, 2009)

Got out to the garage early today and made some headway on the carb. I still have to make some threads. This is my first 1-72 thread so i will get a tap tomorrow. I buy them as i need them. I made the carb exactly to the print except I added 2, 0-80 holes on top so i could add an air filter of some kind later.


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## deere_x475guy (Feb 22, 2009)

Impressive Steve, looks like you went with aluminum instead of the brass. Do you have pics of some of the steps you took to make the carb?

Bob


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 22, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> Impressive Steve, looks like you went with aluminum instead of the brass. Do you have pics of some of the steps you took to make the carb?
> 
> Bob




Sorry no pics. I was called unsafe for having a TV in the shop. I can't even imagine the beating I would get if I posted some pictures of the process. I only take pictures of the finished parts. 

I did screw up. I forgot that I made the body .100 wider to allow more thread at the fuel inlet fitting. I need to mill 2 slots so i can tighten the mounting screws. Should have used the latest drawing!! Give me something to do tomorrow.

Easy fix!


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## Metal Mickey (Feb 22, 2009)

Nice work Steve. Its a shame about not showing earlier pictures in the process, its those pictures that help me the most. Its a shame those making negative comments can have a negative effect such as this.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 22, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> Nice work Steve. Its a shame about not showing earlier pictures in the process, its those pictures that help me the most. Its a shame those making negative comments can have a negative effect such as this.




Not a big deal. Steve holds no grudges!!

If you can believe it, the carb started out as a piece of round stock and most of the work was done in a rotary chuck. I kept putting it off because it looked like alot of work but it was one of the easier pieces.


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## chuck foster (Feb 22, 2009)

very nice build steve :bow:

i have heard that there are some issues with the crankshaft drawings not being just right, did you have any problems?

again great looking engine and can't wait to see some video of it running!!!

chuck


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 22, 2009)

chuck foster  said:
			
		

> very nice build steve :bow:
> 
> i have heard that there are some issues with the crankshaft drawings not being just right, did you have any problems?
> 
> ...



The problem is a combination of things. I drew the lower end before any parts were cut and caught the problem. I moved the crankshaft .015 and cut the recesses in the block and oil pan different. Without the changes the crank will not rotate. I think I moved the lifter bores around also but only a few thou. Also there is only one head drawn so the other head has to be designed yourself.

Are you considering building the Peewee?


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## chuck foster (Feb 22, 2009)

i like all of bob shores engines, i have the silver angel, the little angel and the silver bullet to build but the peewee would be a nice addition to the model shelf.

this engine i think was bobs last engine and i wonder if he ever got one running............if he did not that might be why the crank would not turn and you had to change the drawings.

non the less i think bob would be very happy to see what you are doing with this engine.

keep up the good work :bow:


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 22, 2009)

chuck foster  said:
			
		

> the peewee would be a nice addition to the model shelf.




If you ever decide to build it, I have drawings to fix the crank shaft problem. I also have the head for the odd bank and a distributor set incase you cant get a hold of MJN.


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## chuck foster (Feb 22, 2009)

thanks for the offer of the drawings but first i would have to get some castings...........were did you get yours from???

chuck


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 22, 2009)

chuck foster  said:
			
		

> thanks for the offer of the drawings but first i would have to get some castings...........were did you get yours from???
> 
> chuck



Dirk Tollenaar,   McKinney, TX   [email protected]

Better be sitting down when he tells you the price.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 25, 2009)

We have carburation. I still need to make some kind of lever to open and close the barrel. The fuel fitting was a bit of a challenge. It was made for 1/16 tubing and has a 2-56 thread and a .028 hole thru it. I made the barrel from 304 stainless because i wanted to see how hard it would be to make small parts using SS. I'm going to draw up some kind of lever and work on the radiator some time soon.


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## steamer (Feb 25, 2009)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> I made the barrel from 304 stainless because i wanted to see how hard it would be to make small parts using SS.



I hope the leather was on and the wip was firmly in hand....you like hurting yourself don't you!........ ;D


Nice carb bud!


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 25, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> I hope the leather was on and the wip was firmly in hand....you like hurting yourself don't you!........ ;D



Haha!!

Believe me, it wont happen again.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 9, 2009)

Well after a HORRORABLE!!!!! week and having to work all weekend, I finally made something. These are the fixtures i intend to use to make a small radiator. The smaller fixture is going to be used to make the fins. I should be able to drill the 17 fins and the 2 end plates all at the same time. The 2 end plates will be smaller than the fins so i machined a recess in one side of the fixture to keep them centered while drilling. 

The slotted plate will keep proper spacing on the fins while soldering the tubes in them. This will create the core of the radiator.

The tanks will be machined from solid bar and drilled to recieve the fittings and filler neck. Once soldered together, the tanks will be soldered to the core to finish the radiator.


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## Maryak (Mar 10, 2009)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> Well after a HORRORABLE!!!!! week and having to work all weekend, I finally made something.



Been There - Done that. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




You've set yourself a nice little challenge with that radiator.  

Best Regards
Bob


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## Metal Mickey (Mar 10, 2009)

Brilliant work with the radiator Steve. I shall follow this build very closely as I have been thinking about the Seal's plumbing so your photo's and comments will be studied with much interest. Mike


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 10, 2009)

Well things worked as expected. I cut all my brass into useable lengths. The two .032 thick end plates were cut to size and inserted into the recess of the fixture. Then all the .015 thick fins were sandwiched between the fixture pieces and flushed up on the edges. The holes were drilled in the drill press.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 10, 2009)

After the holes were drilled the fins were milled to shape. When i opened the fixture the fins spilled out on the bench, and just as they hit the bench and made that tink sound, it hit me. If they are not kept in a pile as they are drilled, I wont be able to get the tubing thru because the holes wont line up. Of course i was correct and spent 10 minutes flopping them around and around getting them back in order. Anyway, I cut all the tubes and inserted them into the fins and we are ready to try to solder tomorrow.


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## deere_x475guy (Mar 10, 2009)

You know I was going to send you and email this evening to find out how you were coming along. Now I see making progress and coming along nicely. Plans are set to make it this year to NAMES and I will be sure to drop by to check your amazing work first hand.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 10, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> You know I was going to send you and email this evening to find out how you were coming along. Now I see making progress and coming along nicely. Plans are set to make it this year to NAMES and I will be sure to drop by to check your amazing work first hand.




I'll be sitting with Uncle Dale Detrich. You will know his stuff when you look at the table and all you see is brass engines.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 12, 2009)

The radiator core is soldered together. Tomorrow will be the tanks or fittings. One way or another, I'm making something!!

Sorry about the pics with the poor lighting. Too cold to take photo's in the garage.


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## kustomkb (Mar 13, 2009)

Very slick!. 

is every junction soldered? Could you tell us a bit of how it is done? I have seen full size rads go through a bath of solder, 

Did you flux each joint and heat the whole thing?

It is looking fantastic!


----------



## 90LX_Notch (Mar 13, 2009)

Steve,

That is just the "coolest" thing ever. Your work is truly inspiring. 

Bob


----------



## mklotz (Mar 13, 2009)

> After the holes were drilled the fins were milled to shape. When i opened the fixture the fins spilled out on the bench, and just as they hit the bench and made that tink sound, it hit me. If they are not kept in a pile as they are drilled, I wont be able to get the tubing thru because the holes wont line up. Of course i was correct and spent 10 minutes flopping them around and around getting them back in order.



This bears repeating for all the less experienced folks out there. Like Steve, I learned to do this the hard way when I made some parallels for a job.

Whenever you gang mill/drill/turn anything, be sure to apply indelible witness marks to the parts *before* you undertake the operation. (Do this even if you can't see an immediate reason for doing so. It's amazing how often you'll wish you'd done it.) Don't use a marker or similar that can wear off or be removed by solvents, heat, or coolant. I usually make two angled marks with a knife file in an inconspicuous location.


----------



## Maryak (Mar 13, 2009)

Steve,

Awesome :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 13, 2009)

kustomkb  said:
			
		

> Very slick!.
> 
> is every junction soldered? Could you tell us a bit of how it is done? I have seen full size rads go through a bath of solder,
> 
> ...




First the end plate was soldered. First clean and flux the end of the tubes and the endplates and fixture it up. Solder the plate to the tubes one or two at a time on the end. Then do the opposite side. Then run down the side and solder the fins to the most outer tube on both sides to keep them in position.

The 15 tubes is probibly enough to keep the engine cool. The fins will help but are mostly for looks. The Shores radiator had 5 larger tubes.


----------



## steamer (Mar 14, 2009)

Steve,

Been down with a bit of computer issues, but I am back.

Nice looking radiator my friend!

Dave


----------



## cfellows (Mar 14, 2009)

Steve, you sure make the hard things look easy! Nice work.

Chuck


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 14, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Steve, you sure make the hard things look easy! Nice work.
> 
> Chuck



Actually, it was easy when the fixtures are used. The only problem was I failed to keep the stack "as drilled" and had to flip-flop the fins until they were correct again. I think this could be done by anybody with good soldering skills. 

I also made the 2 hose fittings and the filler tube and cap yesterday. Photo's will be up after I get home from dinner with the bride.


----------



## Metal Mickey (Mar 16, 2009)

*I also made the 2 hose fittings and the filler tube and cap yesterday. Photo's will be up after I get home from dinner with the bride.*

Now I may have missed something so if so, sorry.....Bride?  ??? is there something we should know? Or I should have read already.....


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 16, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> *I also made the 2 hose fittings and the filler tube and cap yesterday. Photo's will be up after I get home from dinner with the bride.*
> 
> Now I may have missed something so if so, sorry.....Bride?  ??? is there something we should know? Or I should have read already.....



Not really. We have been married for 23 years but i still kinda like her.


----------



## deere_x475guy (Mar 16, 2009)

Steve the radiator looks great!


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 16, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> Steve the radiator looks great!



Thanks Mr. Abbott. I have other parts done but the pics came out bad.

Wont be in the shop making Peewee parts for a while. Guess what i am moving Thursday!!


----------



## deere_x475guy (Mar 16, 2009)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> Thanks Mr. Abbott. I have other parts done but the pics came out bad.
> 
> Wont be in the shop making Peewee parts for a while. Guess what i am moving Thursday!!



Mr. Hucks....unfortunetly I think I know...sad day for sure.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 16, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> Mr. Hucks....unfortunetly I think I know...sad day for sure.



NO! That one is already gone! It will be a happy day!


----------



## deere_x475guy (Mar 16, 2009)

Crap....least you could do is call me and tell me about it...do you still have my number?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Mar 16, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> Crap....least you could do is call me and tell me about it...do you still have my number?



No I dont have your number. Send me an email so i will have your email again and i'll send pictures when I get it set. It has been completely scraped and rebuilt to factory specs or better. X and Y are ball screwed so zero backlash.


----------



## deere_x475guy (Mar 16, 2009)

Email on its way.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 23, 2009)

Finally made it into the shop. Made my tanks from solid barstock. It isn't perfect but I learned alot and am happy with my first try.

The pictures are not great. The polished brass kept reflecting the black from the truck it was sitting on.


----------



## Metal Mickey (Apr 24, 2009)

Superb work Steve, really great! :bow: :bow: :bow:


----------



## steamer (Apr 24, 2009)

Looking awesome there Steve!


More Photo's!

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 27, 2009)

I AM THE LUCKIES MAN ALIVE!!


I bought a scale that will go to .00 grams.

I weigh all my rings and put them on a piece of paper and write down the weight. Then I weighed all my pistons and do the same. Then I put the heaviest rings on the lightest pistons and so fourth. I re-weighed all 4 pistons with the rings on and write it down.

Then I weighed all 4 rods and put the heaviest pistons with the lightest rods and reweighed. 

Then I weighed all 4 wrist pins and put the heaviest with the lightest and pressed all my wrist pins hanging the pistons on the rods.

Get this!!

The weight of the assembled units.

8.79G
8.79G
8.79G
8.78G

I dont know if it will help but i wanted to know where i am at.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 27, 2009)

Made some progress today. 

Made the wrist pins and hung the pistons
Fit the rings to the cylinders and installed on the pistons.
Put the seals on the crankshaft and installed the crankshaft.
Installed the postons and rods.
Confirmed the oil depth in the pan and marked the dipstick.

Hoping to degree in the cam tomorrow!


----------



## 90LX_Notch (Apr 27, 2009)

Awsome!


----------



## cfellows (Apr 27, 2009)

I'm mighty impressed, Steve :bow: :bow: :bow:

Chuck


----------



## deere_x475guy (Apr 27, 2009)

Amazing Steve, I would have never given it a thought to balance the piston, rings and rods like that. Just another lesson to learn. Thanks for sharing....wish you lived closer.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 27, 2009)

Thank you!


I wish you were a bit closer too. Would be nice to use that grinder once in a while. Or just sit around telling lies and drinking coffee planning the next project.


Full size performance engines get balanced. My 540Cid was within 1/2 gram. I dont know if it will do anything at this scale, but it cant hurt.


----------



## deere_x475guy (Apr 28, 2009)

Speaking of grinding....wasn't I suppose to exchange that base I gave you at the show for some vice jaws that need grinding.

This offers goes out to the rest of the forum members also. If any of you need some vise jaws ground just pay for the shipping (or stop by if your in the area) and I can work them in. Can't guarantee they will be a mirror finish but they will be within .0005 or better from one end to the other.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 28, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> Speaking of grinding....wasn't I suppose to exchange that base I gave you at the show for some vice jaws that need grinding.



The lead screw in the old vise is bent so bad that i am going to use the vise I got from you.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 30, 2009)

Head, intake, and carb base gaskets are complete. I made a little PCV valve that was not included in the plans. The cam timing is completed as is the valve adjustments. Hoping to get going on the ignition system and finish up the distributor.


----------



## 90LX_Notch (Apr 30, 2009)

Steve that is really cool. I love builds like this. It's where I want to get to in this hobby.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Apr 30, 2009)

90LX_Notch  said:
			
		

> Steve that is really cool. I love builds like this. It's where I want to get to in this hobby.



You will get there. It took me 2 years to get the stones to try something with castings.


----------



## kustomkb (Apr 30, 2009)

Super nice job and congrats on the NAMES win.

Can you run it on a drill for a VID for us?


----------



## steamer (Apr 30, 2009)

Nice looking engine Steve! :bow:

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 2, 2009)

Did some plumbing today. I made the 2 tee fittings and one elbow. The 2 fittings in the back are screwed into the block with 8-32 threads. I changed the fitting in the water pump from the side to the rear. With the fitting coming out of the rear of the pump, I was able to make a looooong fitting and reduce the floppy hose to a minimum.


----------



## deere_x475guy (May 2, 2009)

Nice work Steve, I enjoy seeing your progress.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 3, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> Nice work Steve, I enjoy seeing your progress.



Thanks Bob! 

It's starting to look like an engine.


----------



## Speedy (May 3, 2009)

I LOVE this build! 
I hope to get to that stage, to be able to build 4cyl and up  :bow:
as you can now see by my newby question
how did you make the threads on the elbow and t fitting to get the final position the way you wanted it?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 3, 2009)

Speedy  said:
			
		

> how did you make the threads on the elbow and t fitting to get the final position the way you wanted it?



The fitting is threaded to length as normal.

When the block is tapped, tap to a depth less than the length of the threads on the fitting. Also keep note on where the handle is for future use. Screw the fitting into the block and see where it stops. If you insert the fitting by hand and you need more than 1/4 of a turn, insert the tap and turn it the amount that is needed to give you a 1/4 turn needed. Try the fitting again and if, by hand, a 1/4 turn is needed, use a tool to give the last 1/4 turn. 

The fittings in the photo are test fit. I will remove them and put some pipe joint compound on the threads for final installation.


----------



## Speedy (May 4, 2009)

thanks. makes sense now, and actually is easier then I thought.
more updates! please :bow:


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 17, 2009)

Managed to get some time to work on the gas tank today. It is a piece of 1.313 OD tubing with 2 end caps. 

First thing that was done was to get a length of tubing cut and faced. The tubing kept crushing so i made a slug to fit the ID out of some scrap acrylic. After inserting the acrylic slug it possible to hold the tubing tight enough to work with it.

Next the end caps were turned to a slip fit. The ID of the tubing was cleaned and fluxed. I made a loop of solder and dropped it into the tube with the first end cap on and soldered it on. Next a 1/8 relief hole was drilled where the filler neck goes. This hole is there because I dont know what the internal pressure of the tank will be after heating it. 
I made another loop of solder and put it into the tube, with the opening facing down, just like a piston ring. While inserting the second end cap the ring of solder was pushed up, into the tube. With the unsoldered end cap on the table and the tube sticking straight up, the second end cap was then soldered on.

The final steps were to drill the holes and solder the filler tube and fuel line fitting into the tank. All went well.


----------



## 90LX_Notch (May 17, 2009)

That is a very sharp looking tank. I really like the way it looks.


----------



## steamer (May 18, 2009)

It does look nice!.....

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 18, 2009)

Thanks men! Now i have to figure out a way to mount it at a height so fuel can be drawn out easily.


Finished the radiator today. Added some clips to mount it to a board or something. I also put an over flow tube in there mostly because i thought it looked cool!


----------



## kustomkb (May 19, 2009)

Man that is nice, Looks fantastic. I really radiates! ;D


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 19, 2009)

Thanks Kustomkb!

Fuel tank is mounted. I figured out a way so the engine, fuel tank, and radiator will all be on the same basic mounting system. Me thinks i need to get a nice piece of wood and get everything mounted to a common surface.


----------



## gbritnell (May 19, 2009)

This is coming along great Steve. It gets exciting when it all starts to come together.
gbritnell


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 19, 2009)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> This is coming along great Steve. It gets exciting when it all starts to come together.
> gbritnell



Thanks G!

I found the vacuum fittings at the local auto parts. Still struggling with a way to attach to the spark plugs. I'll get it worked out.


----------



## steamer (May 19, 2009)

Hi Steve,

Steve that radiator is AWESOME!......I am so not worthy! :bow: :bow:

I would like to make a suggestion regarding wood base material  Just To be different....Masa Anduba!

It is sold in the specialty lumber yards as a Mahogony decking, though it has more in common with Maple or lignum vitae. It has a waxy feel to it.

When finished with ureathane it has a nice dark melted chocolate and caramel look that goes well with brass.

It's Harder than woodpecker lips but machines and cuts just fine and doesn't burn. It's very strong and quite heavy.

Just a thought....






Dave

I didn't mention that it sands and glues well and can be polished super smooth.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 20, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> I would like to make a suggestion regarding wood base material  Just To be different....Masa Anduba!



I have found a piece of Corian that is a light gray. I'm going to mount all the parts to the Corian and make a wood base for the corian to sit on. It sorta looks like that epoxy garage floor coating.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 20, 2009)

I wonder how that dark wood would look with the Corian?


----------



## PhillyVa (May 20, 2009)

Ebony would look great...naw too expensive, go with ebony stained Oak. Lots of bark colour on the engine already just to carry a theme. Just a thought.

Regards

Philly

PS: That's an :bow: awsome :bow: engine set-up. woohoo1


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 20, 2009)

Beautiful.


----------



## rake60 (May 20, 2009)

*WOW!* That is one *BEAUTIFUL* build! 
 :bow:

Rick


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 20, 2009)

Thank you gentlemen. Going to start on a simple tubing bender to make the exhaust pipes. Then it's time to try to start it up!


----------



## deere_x475guy (May 20, 2009)

Very nice work Steve! You continue to amaze me.


----------



## steamer (May 21, 2009)

Hey Steve,

Looks great to me! ;D

What ever gets the "boat floated" my friend.

Awesome looking build!

Dave


----------



## 90LX_Notch (May 21, 2009)

Wow, that truly is a work of art. It's beautiful. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:  I can't wait to hear it run.  Thm:


----------



## Maryak (May 21, 2009)

Steve,

That is truly a masterpiece of the model engineers art. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 21, 2009)

Thanks guy's!

I got a good jump on the tubing bender today. Could'nt find plans so i designed my own. Nothing fancy but with only 4 parts it will take little time to get it made.

Scored some bismuth alloy on ebay today. Should have some exhaust pipes soon. The alloy melts at 158F and expands as it cools. I have heard if you fill the tubing with the alloy, you can get some nice bents. Then you just melt it out when finished. Cant wait to try it!!


----------



## kustomkb (May 21, 2009)

Can't wait to see, also called cerobend.


----------



## cobra428 (May 22, 2009)

Looking Good Steve!
I have some future tube bending to do. So, I picked up from Micro Mark a ladle and some low temp casting metal. I'm guessing I have to turn up a small funnel and a plug for the other end and a stand to hold them vertical.... Don't think I want to bend tubing anymore :big:

Can't wait to see your baby Run.....
Tony


----------



## ariz (May 23, 2009)

superb! absolutely admirably! my compliments :bow: :bow: :bow:

I'm impressed also because it seems that you made every piece or part without too efforts, in an easy way...

are you long to model engeenering?
I'm not totally new to metalworking, but I feel myself like a newbe in front of these works


----------



## shred (May 23, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Looking Good Steve!
> I have some future tube bending to do. So, I picked up from Micro Mark a ladle and some low temp casting metal. I'm guessing I have to turn up a small funnel and a plug for the other end and a stand to hold them vertical.... Don't think I want to bend tubing anymore :big:
> 
> Can't wait to see your baby Run.....
> Tony


When I was reading up on it, if the metal is low temp enough, you can use a syringe and some tubing to suck it up into the pipe-to-be-bent, sparing some faffing around with tiny funnels and the like.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 23, 2009)

ariz  said:
			
		

> are you long to model engeenering?



It will be 3 years in June that I bought the machines.


----------



## cfellows (May 23, 2009)

Fantastic work, Steve!  :bow:

Chuck


----------



## Jones (May 23, 2009)

> It will be 3 years in June that I bought the machines.



Wow, that makes me feel really bad!

Great stuff, Steve. Keep it up!


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 23, 2009)

Jones  said:
			
		

> Wow, that makes me feel really bad!



Sorry about that! That's the last thing i would want to make anybody feel. 

I meant 33 years!
Feel any better?


----------



## Jones (May 24, 2009)

Haha, no problem Steve. I haven't had much time to use my machines in the approx. 3 years I've had them. I've made 2 wobblers and half finished an Upshur.
Your progress on this V4 has really motivated me to get the Upshur finished and move toward my dream project of a large-ish (250-500cc) V8 engine, and then something to put it in.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 24, 2009)

Jones  said:
			
		

> Your progress on this V4 has really motivated me to get the Upshur finished and move toward my dream project of a large-ish (250-500cc) V8 engine, and then something to put it in.




Now your talking!!


----------



## gbritnell (May 24, 2009)

Hi Steve, I noticed in reply #141 that you said you were having trouble connecting your plugs. What trouble are you having? What kind of plugs are you using, Dale Detrich's or your own? If the drawing that I put in the plans section isn't clear enough I can take one of my caps apart and measure everything for you.
gbritnell


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 24, 2009)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Hi Steve, I noticed in reply #141 that you said you were having trouble connecting your plugs. What trouble are you having? What kind of plugs are you using, Dale Detrich's or your own? If the drawing that I put in the plans section isn't clear enough I can take one of my caps apart and measure everything for you.
> gbritnell



Don't worry about it. I need to get a few more things done. I guess the biggest problem is that i havent looked at it yet. I'll get to the point where i need them and then gigger it out.

Thanks!!


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 30, 2009)

Scratch display box, fuel lines and spark plug wires off the list!

The wooden box is used as a means to hide the electronics for the ignition system. I also hid a voltage regulator in there to take the 12 volt battery power and regulate it at 5 volts. The ignition system needs between 3.8 and 6volts to operate properly. The electronics are the DIY kit from S/S Machine & Engineering.

The spark plug boots are modified vacuum elbows used in automotive emission systems (thanks G). I made a cap similar to gbritnell's drawing only modified to work with Uncle Dale's plugs. It is just a simple cap .002 bigger than the cap on the plug. 

I still need to make some means of getting the distributor wire and coil wires thru the corian base. Also still need to bend the pipes for the exhaust. OY!


----------



## DavesWimshurst (May 30, 2009)

Steve,
I'm in awe at such an impressive engine. :bow: :bow:
And to write it up, WOW!
Dave


----------



## steamer (May 30, 2009)

That's really looking awesome Steve!

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 30, 2009)

Thanks DavesWimshurst and steamer!

I think i am to the point where it will get torn down and super cleaned so i can try to start it up. Just need to get past this tubing stuff!


----------



## RobWilson (May 31, 2009)

WORK OF ART STEVE :bow: :bow: WOW
rob


----------



## NickG (May 31, 2009)

It's amazing! :bow: :bow:


----------



## stevehuckss396 (May 31, 2009)

Rob, Nick, thank you!

I spent the day cleaning the garage and everything in it. Took the 28 Ford for a ride and just relaxed. I have another day of cleaning tomorrow and then back to the Peewee.

I have plans to make 2 pieces to control the wiring going down thru the corian to the electronics. I also have to make another tubing bender for the exhaust.


----------



## Metal Mickey (Jun 3, 2009)

Well done Steve, you work hard I know to get the finish you achieve. I will look forward to seeing a video of it running....but don't get it dirty!
 :bow: :bow:


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jul 2, 2009)

Well I made all new valve cages for the peewee. They all were pressed in. The valves were all skim cut to make sure the angles matched. The valves were all lapped until a nice looking seat was made. After the valves were installed the head was bolted to the check fixture and air applied. I put the head in a bowl of water.

I have seen hot tubs set on high with less bubbles. 

I think the best thing to do is walk away until the head is clear and the attitude is better. 

I would like to thank all those who tried to help. Your suggestions were all great. :bow:


----------



## gbritnell (Jul 2, 2009)

Steve, I can't imagine what the problem is with your valves and seats. I wish I could tell you something you haven't heard but I'm at a loss. Is there any way you can just check one at a time? They shouldn't all be leaking.
gbritnell


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jul 2, 2009)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Is there any way you can just check one at a time? They shouldn't all be leaking.
> gbritnell



The fixture the head is bolted to allows me to check 2 at a time of the same cylinder.


----------



## gbritnell (Jul 2, 2009)

Steve, could you send me a scan of the drawing that shows the valve cage and head assembly. Maybe I can see something that's causing the problem. 
gbritnell


----------



## kustomkb (Jul 3, 2009)

Man, does that ever look awesome!

nice work Steve!


----------



## Maryak (Jul 3, 2009)

Steve,

Have you tried any of the crack detection fluids on the heads ??? maybe your press fitting has stressed something or distorted the cage. ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## deere_x475guy (Jul 3, 2009)

Steve it looks great and I am sure you will get it sorted out.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jul 3, 2009)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Steve, could you send me a scan of the drawing that shows the valve cage and head assembly. Maybe I can see something that's causing the problem.
> gbritnell



No I can't. In your profile your Email is hidden. ;D

Where shall I send it?


----------



## gbritnell (Jul 3, 2009)

I didn't realize that. Send it to [email protected]
gbritnell


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jul 3, 2009)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> I didn't realize that. Send it to [email protected]
> gbritnell



"You've got mail!"


----------



## gbritnell (Jul 4, 2009)

Hi Steve, I sent you a note and I included a sketch of a seat cutter that I make and use. I make it out of drill rod and harden it. The diameters should be kept as tight as possible to your seat insert that way they will be supported squarely when cutting the seat. I make the tool and then hold it in a drill chuck and turn it by hand. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask. I'm as interested as you in getting this problem resolved. Dont' get me wrong, I have had some leaky seats but not to the extent that you have.
gbritnell


----------



## Metal Mickey (Jul 5, 2009)

Steve it won't make you feel any better but this problem I am sure will be sorted by you with the benefit that those of us behind your curve will gain by the resolution.


----------



## cfellows (Jul 5, 2009)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Hi Steve, I sent you a note and I included a sketch of a seat cutter that I make and use....



I'd like to see that seat cutter. Is it something you can upload or post?

Chuck


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jul 5, 2009)

Seat cutter


----------



## cfellows (Jul 5, 2009)

Looks simple enough. Thanks for sharing. 

Chuck


----------



## cobra428 (Jul 29, 2009)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> I got a good jump on the tubing bender today. Couldn't find plans so i designed my own. Nothing fancy but with only 4 parts it will take little time to get it made.
> 
> Scored some bismuth alloy on eBay today. Should have some exhaust pipes soon. The alloy melts at 158F and expands as it cools. I have heard if you fill the tubing with the alloy, you can get some nice bents. Then you just melt it out when finished. Cant wait to try it!!



Steve,
I don't know how your tube bending has come along since this post but I took a break from my h/m and had on the sci channel, the show How It's Made. Well they where making a trumpet. To bend the 180 into it they filled the tube with soapy water and froze it. They said the soapy water is "flexible" at -57F. They used what looked to be like a standard tube bender only larger. Time to turn down the freezer and give it a shot?
Tony


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jul 30, 2009)

Thanks D

I changed gears and have been working on my CNC mill project. Things are moving along very well. I have all 3 axes moving under computer power. I have an R8 spindle about 75% done. Once I have the ability to actually cut something, i can start to learn how to use it. 

The best part about it is there is positive energy in the shop now!! Might be back on the Peewee in a week or so!!!


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jan 19, 2010)

After finishing the CNC milling machine i used it to make new heads. I then proceeded to make all new valves and valve cages.

Well third time was the charm. Finally got to make the first run!! Sorry about the video but my wife was so fired up about the run that she couldn't decide what and where to shoot.

After a year and a half, this is the greatest sound in the world!

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5WEAdKPG1M[/ame]


----------



## deere_x475guy (Jan 19, 2010)

.Congrats Steve it looks and sounds awesome...
 :bow:


----------



## ksouers (Jan 19, 2010)

Steve,
Congrats!
That's sound is fantastic! Sounds like it's ready to tear up the road!


----------



## rake60 (Jan 19, 2010)

Congratulations Steve! :bow:

Beautiful running engine!

Rick


----------



## 1hand (Jan 19, 2010)

What a work of art..!!!! Sounds awesome. 


Looks like I'll be waiting to finish my engine next month.........competition way to tough this month.. :big:


Matt


----------



## kuhncw (Jan 19, 2010)

Sounds great, Steve. That is quite a growl for such a little engine. Congratulations!

Regards,

Chuck


----------



## Deanofid (Jan 19, 2010)

It runs! And it sounds great!
Nice work, for sure.

EDIT to add;
I had wondered why I hadn't seen any of this engine being built, but see that most all of it was done up to the point just before you posted the video. I had just found HMEM about that time, and missed the whole show! 
I'm sure glad you posted the video today Steve, or I never would have seen the build. So much good stuff in this one. Lots of good questions and many pertinent answers.  Very glad it's all here for us to see, even if we come in late, like I did!

Thanks for sharing. It's quite a build.

Dean


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## GailInNM (Jan 19, 2010)

Great engine, Steve. Thm: Thm: Thm:

Is "Happy Dance Video" Coming? ;D

Gail in NM


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 19, 2010)

GailInNM  said:
			
		

> Great engine, Steve. Thm: Thm: Thm:
> 
> Is "Happy Dance Video" Coming? ;D
> 
> Gail in NM




Thank you everybody!! I am happier than a pig in slop!!
Sorry no happy dance video. I just keep going out to the garage and staring at it. Still have some things to do and then i'm going to tear it down and get it spiffed up. Of course that is after I run it 234 more times.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 19, 2010)

kuhncw  said:
			
		

> Sounds great, Steve. That is quite a growl for such a little engine.



I put a few extra degrees of duration on the cam and a few thou extra lift. I wonder if the hotter cam has anything to do with the sound.


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## gbritnell (Jan 19, 2010)

Congratulations Steve! All the hard work paid off. Isn't it great when they fire up and run like that? I never get tired of hearing that first pop from any engine. What did you end up doing to get the valves to seal properly?
gbritnell


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## kustomkb (Jan 19, 2010)

Unreal!! :bow:

Looks and sounds fantastic!

Awesome job.


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## cfellows (Jan 19, 2010)

Well, Steve, I'm thoroughly impressed. That is one mean sounding machine!

Chuck


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## Maryak (Jan 19, 2010)

Steve,

Magnificent :bow: Superb :bow: Congratulations and a great sound reminds me of racing Go-Kart Motors - hot and hungry to run.

Best Regards
Bob


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## vlmarshall (Jan 19, 2010)

Awesome sound... it really makes me want to build an IC engine.

 :bow:


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 19, 2010)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> What did you end up doing to get the valves to seal properly?



Nothing! I was told by somebody that the chances of sealing valves in a test fixture was darn near impossible and a waste of time. He told me to put the motor together and start the thing up. By then I was about 90% finished with the heads, valves and cages. I never tested them. Just put it together and it started.

He said that you make the cages and valves without moving the setup on the lathe and they will work if you get a nice finish on both. He was absolutely correct.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 19, 2010)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Well, Steve, I'm thoroughly impressed. That is one mean sounding machine!
> 
> Chuck



Thanks Chuck!

Now get back to work on the air motor so i can get my hands on the plans!!


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## slick95 (Jan 19, 2010)

Just Beautiful Steve :bow: :bow: :bow:

I know what you mean about running it every time you go to the shop. It's addicting!!!

Thanks for sharing...

Jeff


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## putputman (Jan 19, 2010)

Steve, what everyone said and then some!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You sure set the bar high.


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## 90LX_Notch (Jan 20, 2010)

Steve,

Congratulations! It sounds great. What a beatiful build. I was wondering when we would get an update. I am glad that the update was it running.

Bob


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 20, 2010)

90LX_Notch  said:
			
		

> I was wondering when we would get an update. I am glad that the update was it running.



I had a few major setbacks and then i kept getting distracted with other stuff. Finally after things started going well in the shop, i got going on it again and here we are.


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## joe d (Jan 20, 2010)

Steve

What a beaut! Love the sound, congratulations :bow: :bow:

Joe


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## GOOFY063 (Jan 20, 2010)

great job love the sound :big: :bow: :big: :bow:


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## chillybilly (Jan 20, 2010)

Top job !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Made my day


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## chillybilly (Jan 20, 2010)

Double top job,just plugged my headphones in to the PC and crancked up the vol !!!!!Sounds awesome :big:


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 20, 2010)

First I would like to thank everybody who commented and emailed me over the last 2 days. You guy's are a great bunch.

I made another video. It must be breaking in some because it idles alot lower and doesn't smoke from the exhaust after it warms up. Smokes pretty good when it's cold, at least it did today. It is starting to respond to the throttle but i'm afraid to rev it up, at least right now. Big improvement from yesterday.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9e8k9OiQCw[/ame]


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## ozzie46 (Jan 20, 2010)

Awesome Steve, just awesome!!!


 Ron


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## arnoldb (Jan 21, 2010)

Great job Steve :bow:

Regards, Arnold


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## ariz (Jan 21, 2010)

I missed the last posts on this build

excellent work steve & the sound of that engine is great!!!

you may be proud of it :bow:


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## cobra428 (Jan 22, 2010)

Sounds and looks great Steve. I've been missing your post at work (they have u-tube blocked). Go figure!

Tony


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## Maryak (Jan 22, 2010)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Sounds and looks great Steve. I've been missing your post at work (they have u-tube blocked). Go figure!
> 
> Tony



Try the bosses secretary his/her computer will probably have no blocks on it. ;D Pseudo control strikes again. :-X

Best Regards
Bob


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## gbritnell (Jan 22, 2010)

It's sounding better and better Steve. After about 20 minutes of running the smoking should go away and the performance will pick up even more. You probably won't get it to idle too slow because it just doesn't have enough flywheel but who cares when it sounds that good.
gbritnell


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 22, 2010)

I still have some carb work to do in the tuning department. There is an air bleed hole that gets drilled very small. The hole gets redrilled one drill size bigger in steps untill the motor quits going lean at full throttle. That should improve throttle response.

The smoke went away the second day i ran it. If i run it out of fuel on the last run of the day, it wont smoke at all when i start it.

It will idle pretty low right now. I think it will get worse as everything breaks in and the compression increases.

Thanks guy's!

Steve


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## vlmarshall (Jan 22, 2010)

Wow, it sounds better every time I play the video. ;D Great work, again!


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## cobra428 (Jan 22, 2010)

Steve,
Maybe I missed it, but is that engine a kit, plans, your own design or...?

Tony


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 22, 2010)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Maybe I missed it, but is that engine a kit, plans, your own design or...?



It was designed by the late Bob Shores. It was the last engine he designed before he passed away. I heard it was going to be "The Pacifier" but in the last days of his life, He re-named it after his wifes nick-name, Peewee.

The Peewee comes as a 6 piece casting set and a very poor set of plans. I suspect he finished the engine design but never finished the drawings. I think that because there are key things missing like the head for the 1-3 bank. I had the drawings for the Hurcules so i was able to bring parts over from that engine. There is enough info on the drawings to get finished with good cad skills but would be hard for a paper and pencil guy. I found the crankshaft and cylinders were out of alignment by .020, stuff like that.

I only know of one other peewee that ever ran. It was built by a guy named Bob Shutt from Ohio. I saw his parts at the 2007 NAMES show. At names 2008 I saw his run for the first time and bought the plans and castings ($180) 2 weeks later. This year, there will be two.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 22, 2010)

I have drilled the air bleed in small steps from a #70 up to a #61 and it is starting to respond. It's not to bad but i believe there is room for further improvment. You can really hear the cam. I'm sorry i didn't go a few more degrees of duration.

I bumped Bobs 240/260 to 280/280.

I will pick it up tomorrow because the Barrett Jackson auction is on and I just have to watch.



[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdUOm8n-4i0[/ame]


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## cobra428 (Jan 22, 2010)

Thanks Steve,
She is a beauty, you have done some marvelous work on her. Congrats, she is sounding better and better every day :bow: :bow: :bow:
I'll have to look into Bob's site to see if the castings are still available!

Tony


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 22, 2010)

Bob's widow does not handle the peewee stuff. There is a fellow named Dirk Tollenaar who took on the castings and plans for the Peewee. He is a real nice guy. I wanted to get the castings and plans for the Peewee, Hurcules, and Silver Bullet. Dirk was kind enough to get the SB and Hurk from Margaret and send all 3 kits together. 

If you do decide to get the castings, dont cut anything. There are some things that i can let you know that will save you some heartache.

Last known:
[email protected]


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## cobra428 (Jan 22, 2010)

Thanks Steve,
Right now the Whittle has captured my interest. It's nice to know though. I will be researching it. Beauty of an engine!

Tony


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 22, 2010)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Right now the Whittle has captured my interest.



I know. I have been keeping an eye on the build. Might try that one someday myself.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 24, 2010)

Well.... I think this project is about finished. I have tuned the carburetor about all i can and have it running to a point that makes me happy. I plan on some suttle changes like a small container under the overflow tube in the radiator. For the most part

I'M DONE!!

[ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-JRQGPswVA[/ame]


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## ozzie46 (Jan 24, 2010)

Well done!! Just love that sound.


 Some day when I'm feeling very confident of my skills, I too may enjoy my own little noise maker. : : :

 Ron


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## putputman (Jan 24, 2010)

Steve, that is an absolute masterpiece. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: 
I don't know what you can do to top that one, but I bet we will see something within the next year. You just keep raising the bar.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 24, 2010)

putputman  said:
			
		

> Steve, that is an absolute masterpiece. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:
> I don't know what you can do to top that one, but I bet we will see something within the next year. You just keep raising the bar.



Thanks guys!!

When I grow up I want to be George Britnell.


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## 1hand (Jan 24, 2010)

A true work of art. Congrats on your Build.


Matt


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 24, 2010)

Beautiful Steve, truly beautiful! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Just curios, how many hours do you think you have in it? ???

-MB


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 24, 2010)

It's hard to say how many hours. I would work on it hard for a few weeks and then get distracted for a few weeks. There was a period where i put it down for about 4-5 months. If i had to guess it would be between 750 - 1000 maybe? That could be cut down my not making the crankshaft 3 times and not making 3 sets of heads. 

Oh well! It is my first IC engine to run and they will get faster.


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## mklotz (Jan 24, 2010)

> When I grow up I want to be George Britnell.



LOL.

I'm a steam guy (just know that internal combustion stuff will never catch on) but I'm really gob-smacked here. That is just plain fantastic! Well done, indeed.


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## gbritnell (Jan 24, 2010)

Hi Steve, I said it before but it's more than worth repeating, fantastic job!! Having talked to people about this engine I know it was no easy feat to complete. It sound terrific and will only get better with some time on it. I hope to see it at NAMES in April.
George


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 24, 2010)

Awesome Steve. Wonderful sound. That's the kind of work that helps motivate others.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 24, 2010)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Hi Steve, I said it before but it's more than worth repeating, fantastic job!! Having talked to people about this engine I know it was no easy feat to complete. It sound terrific and will only get better with some time on it. I hope to see it at NAMES in April.
> George



You will see it there. I was hoping to sit around you and Uncle Dale and Ron C again like Zanesville but my club wants to coral together this year. I'll come say hi!


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## vlmarshall (Jan 25, 2010)

I've gotta have one!I've gotta have one!I've gotta have one!I've gotta have one!


That engine has a PERFECT sound, I think you chose the best possible cam durations in that thing. :bow: :bow:

Wow. I love it. I want one.


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## BigBore (Jan 25, 2010)

*That is just SO impressive!*

Let's see......1000 hours.....say $40 an hour.......Wanna sell it?

 :wall: Like I could even.

_(watching it over, and over, and over again on You Tube.....Priceless!)_

Thanks for taking us on this journey with you.

Ed


.


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## gbritnell (Jan 25, 2010)

Hi Steve, I went back through all of your posts to find some information. I found the section on building your distributor but I couldn't find if you mentioned what type of trigger devise the engine uses for the ignition, hall effect or points. Could you tell me what type of setup this engine uses? Another thing, could you please change your signature now, you no longer have to aspire to be me. This engine puts you there with some of the best builders out there. It's one thing to machine the parts but to get it to start and run like yours, to use a commercial tagline, priceless!!
George


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## kustomkb (Jan 25, 2010)

Awesome job, a real beauty!!

I wish the 4 cylinder I drove in to work sounded like that.

Thanks for the inspiration.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 25, 2010)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> I found the section on building your distributor but I couldn't find if you mentioned what type of trigger devise the engine uses for the ignition, hall effect or points.
> George



I used the electronic ignition from Ray Sholl. It is the one at the bottom of the page for "Scale Model IC Engines" and yes it is hall triggered. It comes with the ignition, coil, and 2 hall sensors for about 60 bucks i think. Dont remember.

http://www.cncengines.com/


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## ariz (Jan 25, 2010)

ooohhhhh... seen and heard only now...

finally a model engine that runs and has the sound of a real engine!!!!!!!!!!

*great* :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 25, 2010)

ariz  said:
			
		

> ooohhhhh... seen and heard only now...
> 
> finally a model engine that runs and has the sound of a real engine!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> *great* :bow: :bow: :bow:



Thanks everyone! Still sounds like a bumble bee when reved up but i love the sound at idle. I have had people mention that a bigger flywheel would make it idle better. I can hear the cam at idle and just blows me away. I think it idles just like my Chevy did. Chevy cam was a bit wilder.


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## BMyers (Jan 26, 2010)

I could listen to that idle all day


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## GailInNM (Jan 31, 2010)

I will be looking for it Steve.  Ron sometimes buries things with links from the main page. I find everything eventually and it is worth the search.
Congratulations on a great engine.
Gail in NM


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## stevehuckss396 (Jan 31, 2010)

GailInNM  said:
			
		

> I will be looking for it Steve. Ron sometimes buries things with links from the main page. I find everything eventually and it is worth the search.
> Congratulations on a great engine.
> Gail in NM



Just saw it. I was not included in it.


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## rake60 (Jan 31, 2010)

Beautiful Steve!
No, that is Drop Dead Gorgeous! 

I have a lot of young, red neck friends here.
They can only dream of their full size, dirt track, race car engines 
sounding that aggressive. That may be a good thing! 

Congratulations on the results of your skills! :bow:

Rick


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## GailInNM (Jan 31, 2010)

Sorry it did not make it in this issue of MEN, Steve. When Ron is out of town things tend to happen. I notice that the DA plan set mentioned in the editorial page did not make it to the plans section either. 
Gail in NM


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## Bill Mc (Feb 4, 2010)

the plan is there now!


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 4, 2010)

Bill Mc  said:
			
		

> the plan is there now!



Yes it is, I just checked. Thanks Bill!


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## GailInNM (Feb 4, 2010)

Thanks Bill.

For those not familiar with the MEN site, the plan is in the members only section. Membership is by paid subscription.
Most of the site is free and contains a wealth of information and how to articles. 

For those looking at the DA plan set, note that it is drawn in 1st angle projection and not noted on the plan.

Gail in NM


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## vascon2196 (Feb 8, 2010)

Great engine....those small parts must have driven you crazy. Wether it did or didn't it sure paid off. Nice job.


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## Mosey (Feb 21, 2010)

rleete  said:
			
		

> What's the car that the engine is sitting on? Is that a Morgan?


Although I have a tiny shop, would having a car like that to put my engines on help with the machining? It might be hard to get it down the stairs.
Seriously, is anyone building a Silver Bullet? :bow:


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 21, 2010)

Mosey  said:
			
		

> Seriously, is anyone building a Silver Bullet?



I have not seen a build thread for a silver bullet. I do have the casting set for the SB and the Hurc.

You could start a build thread and keep us up to date!


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## Mosey (Feb 21, 2010)

I have been building the SB for about 10 years now, on and off. Got fired up (pardon the pun) recently, and am going at it now. Since I am on sheet 17 of 25 I guess I am about 25% done.
anyhow, I couldn't visualize many of the parts, but since all of Bob's engine are similar, I see that your water pump looks like mine, etc. Very helpful to see where I am supposed to go. I have the block, crank, cam, carb., head, valve gear, flywheel, etc., done. I milled the cam similarly to your way, after AutoCADding a cutting plan, and building a cam milling degree'd wheel. It came out very nicely. I have tried to mill a better carburetor lever about 12 times and am getting close to one that is nice. Maybe you would like to see some snaps, sometime, but understand, I am a beginner and it won't have that beautiful finish yours has.
More later.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 21, 2010)

Mosey  said:
			
		

> I have been building the SB for about 10 years now, on and off.
> Maybe you would like to see some snaps, sometime, but understand, I am a beginner and it won't have that beautiful finish yours has.



Mosey, start a new thread in the engines from castings sections. Don't worry about what things look like and all that. I would love to see what you have done as would most people that visit this board. This is my first gas engine also and I had alot of support from these fine people.

Also, if you have any question about other parts, I have a ton of other photos. This is why we are all here.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 21, 2010)

Mosey  said:
			
		

> I milled the cam similarly to your way, after AutoCADding a cutting plan, and building a cam milling degree'd wheel. It came out very nicely.



Here is how i made my cam. It was done all in the lathe. I increased the lift and duration to make it sound a little robust at idle.

http://www.mikes-models.com/camarticle.html


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## Mosey (Feb 21, 2010)

8) ??? :
Steve, I will try to get the guts to start a thread on my Silver Bullet project. This will be a long list of mistakes for all to learn/laugh about. Maybe save another newbie from my disasters.
I just trashed my completed head while drilling and tapping for the carburetter screws, so you will get to see my new one.
Stay tuned! I should mention that the camshaft was made on my sweet little Aciera F1, which I will show.
It will be slow going, as I only get to work on it occasionally.


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## metalmad (Mar 6, 2010)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> Well.... I think this project is about finished. I have tuned the carburetor about all i can and have it running to a point that makes me happy. I plan on some suttle changes like a small container under the overflow tube in the radiator. For the most part
> 
> I'M DONE!!
> 
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-JRQGPswVA


A true work of Art.
is that a electric starter that u put through the radiator?
Mate I love the whole thing.
Pete


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 6, 2010)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> A true work of Art.
> is that a electric starter that u put through the radiator?
> Mate I love the whole thing.
> Pete



Thanks Pete!

That is a standard RC starter motor. I removed the drum that holds the rubber bumper and turned a 1/4 inch stem that is attached to the shaft of the motor. Yes it goes thru the lower tank of the radiator and into the crankshaft that contains a clutch bearing. I redesigned the crank hub to look like an american V8. Everything else was of the original design of Mr. Shores.


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## Maryak (Mar 6, 2010)

Steve,

So many builds seem to be slipping under my guard lately, must be old age. 

My apologies for my tardiness in congratulating you on another wonderful build. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 6, 2010)

Don't worry Maryak, I completely understand. With so many things going on, I also find myself wondering how i missed some build that is just plain awesome. Good news is, you never run out of things to see on this forum. Extremely diverse!

Thank you!!

Steve


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## Metal Mickey (Mar 27, 2010)

Well done Steve. Superb effort and a lot of learning points for us novice's

Mike


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## Davewild (Mar 20, 2014)

stevehuckss396 said:


> If you ever decide to build it, I have drawings to fix the crank shaft problem. I also have the head for the odd bank and a distributor set incase you cant get a hold of MJN.



Hi Steve 

I realize this is very old thread but I have just bought the PeeWee casting, is it possible to get the drawings of the crankshaft and anything else you might have to help me along, obviously I will meet any costs if there are any, hope you can help?

Regards and thanks
Dave


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## bob shutt (Mar 20, 2014)

Hi Dave,
 I have a disc of about 300 pictures from my build. I can make you a copy.
 Bob


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## Davewild (Mar 20, 2014)

Hi Bob

That would be fantastic, only problem is I live in Thailand, I could send the postage to your Paypal if you have one?

Regards

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 20, 2014)

Davewild said:


> Hi Steve
> 
> I realize this is very old thread but I have just bought the PeeWee casting, is it possible to get the drawings of the crankshaft and anything else you might have to help me along, obviously I will meet any costs if there are any, hope you can help?
> 
> ...





Hello Davewild!

When you bought the castings you should have a drawing set as part of the package. Did you get them from Dirk?


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## Davewild (Mar 20, 2014)

Hi Steve
I'm obviously getting confused ( very easily done) yes I did receive the full set of drawings but I was under the impression  that you had made an updated drawing taking into account an error of 20 thou you had found, I will have to convert to metric anyway so hopefully I will work out any problems then, I think the drawings leave a lot to the imagination anyway!!! 

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 21, 2014)

Davewild said:


> Hi Steve
> I'm obviously getting confused ( very easily done) yes I did receive the full set of drawings but I was under the impression  that you had made an updated drawing taking into account an error of 20 thou you had found, I will have to convert to metric anyway so hopefully I will work out any problems then, I think the drawings leave a lot to the imagination anyway!!!
> 
> Dave





Yes I do have an alternate set but they should not be used on a build that has been started with the old set. There is very little in common with the old set. If you are still interested PM me an email address and ill get them to you.


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## Davewild (Mar 21, 2014)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Yes I do have an alternate set but they should not be used on a build that has been started with the old set. There is very little in common with the old set. If you are still interested PM me an email address and ill get them to you.



Thanks Steve PM sent


Dave


----------

