# Peewee V4



## Davewild

Hi all

I finally took the plunge today and overcame my fear and made a start, as the camshaft seemed the most daunting I decided to have a go at that first, I only have Sherline machines  and I wanted to use Steve Huck offset turning method but the lathe is so small I don't think it would fit, I ended up turning the blank then forming the lobes with the mill and rotary table, I have metric machines so first had to do some converting, it all seemed to go OK thanks to Steve's excellent spread sheet, it was far easier than I thought infact it gets rather boring, it took me about four hours to set up and cut the cam blank, then about five hours on the mill to form the lobes


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## Davewild

Cam blank prepared


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## Davewild

Set up in rotary table on mill


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## Davewild

Halfway there


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## Davewild

Back to the lathe for final clean up


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## Davewild

I can only post one picture per post, any ideas? What I'm doing wrong?


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## stevehuckss396

Nice going on the camshaft!


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## Cogsy

Cam looks nice. That's what I'll be attempting next - I hope it won't be as hard as the crankshaft.


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## Davewild

stevehuckss396 said:


> Nice going on the camshaft!



Thanks Steve, I used your hot cam spread sheet


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## Davewild

Cogsy said:


> Cam looks nice. That's what I'll be attempting next - I hope it won't be as hard as the crankshaft.



I had enormous fear of the camshaft, but it's actually not very difficult, the spread sheet that Steve has produced is the clever bit and makes it quite easy, I now think that crank is more difficult, will probable try that next.


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## gus

Hi Dave,

Camshaft looks good. Camshaft milling by the one degree and quill feed by thous is finger biting. Had six bad cams before good cams appeared for the Nemett-Lynx Engine. I admire your workmanship on this very long camshaft.


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## Davewild

Hi all

I spent the last week trying to come up with a fixture to face the top and bottom of the block in my very small machine, after a few failures I ended up with this set up, after a lot of passes on both ends the block was ready for cleaning up on the inside.


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## Davewild

Fitting of the centre bearing cap.


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## Davewild

Internal work on block nearly finished.


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## Davewild

Finished, oil pan next


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## Davewild

Both finished, a few mistakes along the way, but nothing to serious, next is boring the crank and cam tunnel, this is the part I'm not sure my machines can cope with, the crank tunnel should be ok because of the voids in the block/ oil pan but the cam tunnel is one continuous bore through the solid block, drilling the starter hole is what is concerning me as I have no long drill bits and the hole is about an inch longer than the reliefs on the drill bit, the block is 3 inches long, do you think I can carefully just keep pecking away at it? any tips?


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## Cogsy

Looking good so far. I'll be very interested in how you go about boring the crank and cam tunnels - I'm concerned about those jobs as well.

Luckily? for me, I have the porous castings that I can learn on before attempting the job on the real castings (when I get them).


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## Davewild

I decided not to go ahead with the boring of the block until I have the bearings on hand, so next is the crankshaft, again my machines are so small I decided to make a built up crankshaft, won't be exactly as the drawing but hopefully will be ok, crank webs are first thing, cut to size and marked out on the lathe then over to the mill for shaping then I will drill the offsets and part off the pieces, I will be using 6 mm drill rod for the journals, not sure yet if to glue together or solder.


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## Cogsy

Interesting approach. The crank was a stressful part for me, and took 2 attempts, but I didn't consider building it up. I'll watch how you do it and store the info for my future projects.


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## michael-au

Good job, nice to another V4 in progress


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## Naiveambition

If you are using a ipad to post, I also could not post more than one pic at a time. I downloaded the hmem app and have no problems posting multiple pics now. It may also be used with phones this way, though I have not tried it.


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## gus

Will be watching every move you make!!!! This another engine on my ''must build list''. Take it slow and easy.


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## Davewild

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Got a little more done today, this is the work I thought I would never be able to achieve with my very small machines, next I will attempt the boring of the cylinders, If I can get that done then I think that the whole engine can be done with Sherline machines, albeit very slowly, took a lot of drill changes and passes with the boring bar but that's the crankshaft and cam tunnel done.


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## Cogsy

Looking great Dave. Can you explain how you went about drilling the deep holes? (I want to copy your successful procedure)


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## Davewild

Cogsy said:


> Looking great Dave. Can you explain how you went about drilling the deep holes? (I want to copy your successful procedure)


Hi Cogsy

I thought it would be very difficult to drill both the crank and cam tunnels especially the cam tunnel but it turned out OK albeit very slow it took me about 3-4 hours to complete both.
I started with the crank tunnel as I thought this would be much easier because of the voids in the crankcase, having no long drill bits I started with a 4 mm bit, after centre drilling I drilled with this until it was at its full depth, this reached through the centre main bearing cap, I then went straight up to a 6mm bit and drilled through again this bit was long enough to punch right through, I then went up in 1/2 mm drill bit sizes until I got to 10mm, it was now time for the boring head with a modified boring bar ( attacked with an angle grinder until it would give enough relief to get it to full depth) I took light cuts .2mm until I was nearly there then I went down to cuts of .01mm until the bearing was a nice snug fit, I wasn't  as close as I thought I was and this took many passes and over an hour.
I started with the same 4 mm bit on the cam tunnel and pecked away with this until it was at its full depth again I went up to 6 mm and drilled to the same depth, this gave me a 6mm hole about half way through the block, I then went down to a 5 mm bit and pecked away again withdrawing the bit a lot and blowing the hole out with compressed air, the 5 mm bit was about 15 mm short of breaking through. I then went up again to a 7 mm bit and drilled approx half way through the top of the block again, back down to a 6mm bit this went through the last 15mm easy, so I now had the bottom 50% of the hole at 6mm the the top 50 % at 7 mm, but I had broken through, I thought this was going to make the going easier but I hadn't really thought about it, I now went back up to a 7 mm bit a started widening the bottom 50% of the hole, once I was nearly there I could hear my machine under strain because now the hole and drill were both the same size for the full depth of the block, (about 75mm)I broke through again with this size and went up 1/2 mm to 7.5mm it was ok at first but once I got over about 50-60 mm the friction was to much and I withdrew the drill, by chance there was a can of Harley Davidson 60 weight oil on the bench next to me, I put a few drops of this down the hole and on the bit and it cut through easily, again increasing in 1/2 mm drill sizes I drilled the hole to 10 mm and then back to the boring head and the same story until it was at 15 mm, hope this makes sense and is of some help to you. I'm using metric bearings what about you?


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## Cogsy

Thanks for the explanation, I'll file the info away for when I need to do mine.

I'm using imperial bearings, seals and fasteners for this build. It meant buying some imperial tooling but I didn't want to risk a conversion error or some other complication coming up, especially since this project is already a bit complex for me! I still need to source the seals but it'll be a while before I need them.


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## gus

Cogsy said:


> Thanks for the explanation, I'll file the info away for when I need to do mine.
> 
> I'm using imperial bearings, seals and fasteners for this build. It meant buying some imperial tooling but I didn't want to risk a conversion error or some other complication coming up, especially since this project is already a bit complex for me! I still need to source the seals but it'll be a while before I need them.



I made a big mess with imperial to metric conversion on two engines. With the Howell V-4 ,I am not gambling too much. So far so good.


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## kadora

Hello friends
Where is possible to buy castings for PEEWEE engine?
I sent message to Mr Tollenaar /he is probably casting producer/ but no answer.
Thank you


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## Cogsy

kadora said:


> Hello friends
> Where is possible to buy castings for PEEWEE engine?
> I sent message to Mr Tollenaar /he is probably casting producer/ but no answer.
> Thank you


 
Dirk Tollenar is the guy to contact. His email address is [email protected].

There has been foundry problems and the last few sets of castings have been porous and unusable. Dirk is currently dealing with the foundry and trying to solve the issues but at the moment I don't think the castings are available.


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## kadora

Thank you Cogsy


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## Metal_slicer

Dave, 

What material did you make the cam out of? Do you have any more pictures of your build? I'm following your build closely since I have similar machines and will likely end up using the same setups. I have another question regarding the crank, were you going to make it one piece or composite like Steve Hucks 1.5 demon v8 crank?


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## Davewild

Hi metal slicer

The cam was made from drill rod, the crank is going to be built up from pieces, sherline are so small I don't think you could turn the crank, should be an up date coming soon.

DaveUOTE=Metal_slicer;265231]Dave, 

What material did you make the cam out of? Do you have any more pictures of your build? I'm following your build closely since I have similar machines and will likely end up using the same setups. I have another question regarding the crank, were you going to make it one piece or composite like Steve Hucks 1.5 demon v8 crank?[/QUOTE]


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## Davewild

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cutting of the crank websView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1430400312.538463.jpg
setting up square etcView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1430400368.979637.jpg
drilling the pinsView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1430400402.968333.jpg
a few more pins then cut the centers outView attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1430400460.338179.jpg
this is where it all went wrong


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## Davewild

Finally I got some shop time. Unfortunately I messed up the crank, it was all going very well until I cut the centers out, I made a terrible mistake and cut into one of the rod  journals, I was going to put some protection on them but I thought that as I'm using the DRO I will never hit the journal!!! Not sure how I'm going to get it apart as when I was building it I was going to use some 2 mm drill rod I have for the pins, well the work shop gremlin had hidden it and I was unable to find it, I have a nagging suspicion in the back of my mind that that the gremlin is me and I have put it in a safe place for easy location as I knew I needed it for this project. Well as I had no drill rod but did have two blunt 2 mm drill bits I cut the shanks of of them and used them as pins making it impossible for me to drill them out, I will try tomorrow to punch the pins out, they are glued in with permanent loctite. Will update you soon how I get on, I really don't want to make the whole thing again.


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## Davewild

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cant believe I let this happen


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## Cogsy

I have a couple of ideas (suggestions is too grand a word for them). First, maybe some gentle heating would loosen the loctite. Depending on which sort you used, you could be looking at 200-400 degrees C but that shouldn't hurt the crank I don't think.

Second, if you can't get it apart, how bad did you ding the journal? It's tough to tell from the picture, but maybe you can set it up in the lathe and skim the journal til it's good again? Just means making those 2 rod bearings a little different size.

I'm sure you can fix it, it looks great apart from that little scuff...

Edit to add : When I made a built up crank I used a hacksaw to manually remove the extra rod and then cleaned up the end with a file. It was a bit of work but I didn't trust my milling capabilities. Even then I managed to nick the journal with the hacksaw...


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## stevehuckss396

Metal_slicer said:


> were you going to make it one piece or composite like Steve Hucks 1.5 demon v8 crank?





Both my crankshafts are one piece. I tried to make a multi-piece but I didn't like the way it turned out. Also my Peewee crankshaft is one piece. I would recommend the single piece crankshaft.


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## Cogsy

I just had a thought Dave (dangerous, I know) but aren't drill shanks soft? At least on the larger drill bits I believe they leave the shanks soft and only harden the cutting portion. I know I've turned down the shanks of reamers with no problems as they're made the same way.

You've probably got it all sorted by now anyway.


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## Davewild

Cogsy said:


> I just had a thought Dave (dangerous, I know) but aren't drill shanks soft? At least on the larger drill bits I believe they leave the shanks soft and only harden the cutting portion. I know I've turned down the shanks of reamers with no problems as they're made the same way.
> 
> You've probably got it all sorted by now anyway.


Not sorted it's laying on the bench where I chucked it, I'm going back to work again tomorrow in Malaysia, so am spending the day with my son, when I've calmed down a bit I will have a look at it again, I may try the one piece crank, I just don't think my little Sherline will handle it, I will get it sorted, thanks for your comment and hopefully your right, could be a quick job and I might get to look at it next week.


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## Davewild

stevehuckss396 said:


> Both my crankshafts are one piece. I tried to make a multi-piece but I didn't like the way it turned out. Also my Peewee crankshaft is one piece. I would recommend the single piece crankshaft.



Thanks for the comment Steve, I would love to have a go at a one piece crank I just don't see the little Sherline lathe handling it, if I can't fix what I've got I will give it a go, thank again.

Dave


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## Cogsy

I'm not familiar with the Sherline and I don't know it's work envelope, but although I couldn't have turned the cam (in it's fixture) on my 7X mini-lathe, I could've done the crank easily. The blank is only a 1" round bar by roughly 6-7" long. Hopefully that helps you visualise it.


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## Davewild

Curiosity got the better of me and I couldn't go off to work without trying to get to pins out of my messed up crank, it wasn't easy I used the smallest punch I have and managed to drive out two of the pins, as these two moved I left it there and will dismantle when I get back, make a new main journal and rod journals and piece it back together again.


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## stevehuckss396

Sherline should have no trouble.  Just do some milling on the blank before you start turning to speed things along.


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## Metal_slicer

I have the sherline 5400 mill and I think you can do the job, it just might take a little longer to cut because you cant take quite as much off at one time as the larger millis. 

I don't have a sherline lathe, but plan to get one at some time. Right now I have the HF 7 x 10 mini lathe and I need to replace the saddle and cross slide due to poorly cut ways. it will work fine with tight gibs but I can't stand the stiff hand wheels. 

I see a lot of people cutting cams and cranks with drill rod material. Whats wrong with 1144 stress proof round rod? You can cut the 1144 then harden it. I plan to use 1144 steel for my crank and cam.


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## stevehuckss396

Metal_slicer said:


> I see a lot of people cutting cams and cranks with drill rod material. Whats wrong with 1144 stress proof round rod? You can cut the 1144 then harden it. I plan to use 1144 steel for my crank and cam.




Nothing wrong with 1144. Both my cranks pictured above are 1144. That is the metal of choice for many many model builders. Camshafts, I prefer drill rod.


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## Metal_slicer

stevehuckss396 said:


> Nothing wrong with 1144. Both my cranks pictured above are 1144. That is the metal of choice for many many model builders. Camshafts, I prefer drill rod.



I have never tried to cut drill rod and I can't imagine trying to mill a cam with this material. I understand drill rod resist wear very well, but is it really necessary for an engine that will only run unloaded for a few minutes at a time? If there is something to be learned, take me to school. ;D


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## Cogsy

Drill rod machines quite nicely (in my opinion anyway). I'd never used it before my current project but I made my cam with no troubles. My crank is 1144 though.

Dave - Congrats. Looks like you're going to be able to fix it easily. I bet you're glad you didn't head off to work not knowing.


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## Davewild

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finally, I got some time and have sorted the crank out, I'm very happy with the accuracy but very disappointed with the cosmetics, it looks terrible after being bashed around trying to get it apart when I messed it up I may still try a one piece crank later once I've had time to forget the torment of this one, cylinder boring next.


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## gus

Now in Ipoh,Perak,admiring your good work. 
Still stuck with the V-2. 
Take care.


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## Davewild

Hi all 

Things have been very slow for me, but I am again at work, I brought my mini sherline with mill attachment with me and have been making parts, unfortunately I only had 4 hours notice to leave and forgot many things like my 4 jaw chuck, I normally sit down before I leave and work out what I need and make a list, I will try and post some pics but the internet is very poor.
Cogsy did you get your new castings yet? I may need a new block but that's another story!!!


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## Davewild

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Ihave never seen valves so small


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## Davewild

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so small!!


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## Davewild

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better quality pic


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## Cogsy

They're some nice looking valves. I have some made although I don't think they look that good, but they'll probably be usable.

No castings yet - the foundry still can't pour any without gas bubbles. Dirk thinks he might have a block or two in stock somewhere so I may get at least that in the near future, otherwise it'll have to be hogged out of solid somehow (not sure how I'd do that though). What has happened to yours? Fingers crossed, it's fixable.


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## gus

8 valves and they look alike. Great job.


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## Davewild

Hi all
I have finally got some time to write a few words on my progress, as you can see from the photos I have made numerous pieces while on my last two offshore trips.
There was a good supply of Brass onboard and that would explain the many pieces cut from brass, one of the heads was very disappointing in that it contained a lot of porosity, I proceeded anyway and apart from it not looking very nice I think it is usable.
One of the biggest problems I face while offshore is if I forget to take that certain size drill bit or some other item that is not available on-board, last trip it was a very small drill bit that prevented me from completing numerous tapped holes and a 6mm reamer that also snookered me somewhat.
The flywheel is also made from brass because it was available and free, will it be to heavy? Only time will tell, only problem I can see is that the engine won't de-celerate  very quickly, I don't have a radius tool, but I remember Steve Hucks saying that he used graph paper to create the coordinates for a radius, so that's what I did, very easy and worked very well, once I had created the stepped shape of the radius a file smoothed out the ridges, one of those things  that makes you think "why didn't I think of that" more pics to follow!!!View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1453986609.634474.jpg
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## michael-au

Good work Dave, the flywheel looks nice in brass, it is a shame that the castings are so porous, hopefully they will be ok and work for you
It won't be that much longer and it will be finished


Michael


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## Cogsy

Nice work indeed. Love the look of the exhausts. Jealous...


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## Davewild

I enjoyed making the exhausts, someone on here in another thread ( sorry can't remember name or thread) suggested reading a link to Hi Tech Alloys, whoever you are thanks, I followed these instruction for the use of Cerrobend and apart from some other issues the bending went great.
Luckily there was a tube bender of the correct size at work, I followed Hi Tech Alloys instructions and first filled the tubes with olive oil sourced from the galley, after draining the oil I filled the first two tubes with molten Cerrobend and then dunked them both into ice cold water. Once the tubes had cooled suitably, I made a couple of test bends to get a feel for what I was doing, both were failures with the tube splitting and the force required to bend the tube felt very excessive, it just didn't feel right, I could tell by feel that the brass was very brittle, so it was of to the welding shop to get the tubes annealed. After annealing I again oiled the insides and filled with Cerobend again, the difference was amazing like I was bending a different material, while applying pressure to the bender it felt soft and smooth.
After another couple of test bends I started on the exhausts, it was all done free hand with no calculations, I have to say I admire you guys that have built radials and the associated very convoluted pipe work. Not sure how many pieces I messed up before I got something I was happy with, There is rather a large pile of scrap!!!View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1454484723.929353.jpg
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## Davewild

Back at work again. And again with terrible internet connection, have tried to upload a pic of my progress.


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## Davewild

Can someone help me please, I am close to setting the magnets into the timing disk and cannot remember which pole should face the Hall sensor, I think it should be South pole?


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## ozzie46

Davewild said:


> Can someone help me please, I am close to setting the magnets into the timing disk and cannot remember which pole should face the Hall sensor, I think it should be South pole?



 Yes, the South pole.

Ron


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## michael-au

Looks fantastic Dave good job

Your not far from finished

Michael


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## Cogsy

Beautiful. Looks like you don't have much further to go. I got hold of new castings a couple of days ago but won't have any time to work on them  for a while. I'm guessing yours will be running before I get back to mine.


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## Davewild

Hi Cogsy/ Michael

Not sure if mine will ever run, you remenber a while back I said I had messed up the block, well nothing has changed. I have no idea how I did it but the camshaft tunnel is not centered, i did not notice it until well after boring the tunnel and have no idea how I did it. Anyway because no new casting were available at the tme I carried on regardless and have had to change things along the way to suit, my engine has longer valve lifters on one side of the engine!!! Dirk got hold of me recently and said that new castings are now available, so if it doesnt run I will get a new block and start over and fit all my parts to it, I got another 7 weeks stuck out here (indian Ocean) so should get it pretty much fininshed this trip, it funny how decieving it is, I think im nearly done but there still a few time consuming parts to make. Not happy with the inlet manifold so that a re-make then the  carburetor plus lots of other small fittings, I have a plan for the radiator that should look real nice i hope.


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## stevehuckss396

Davewild said:


> Hi Cogsy/ Michael
> 
> Not sure if mine will ever run, you remenber a while back I said I had messed up the block, well nothing has changed. I have no idea how I did it but the camshaft tunnel is not centered, i did not notice it until well after boring the tunnel and have no idea how I did it.




To be honest I dont think the cam being "out of place" will be a problem other than the gears being meshed well. If the gears get the cam rotating with minimal slop i believe it will run and probably better than you think.

Have you checked the gear mesh yet?


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## michael-au

I agree with Steve the cam being offset shouldn't make a great deal of difference as long as the gears mesh

You have made the lifters  longer on one side to compensate for the offset, so they will still travel the same distance giving the same amount of lift, there for the engine should and I believe will run as if the cam was in the center 

Good luck, its looking good so far

Michael


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## Davewild

stevehuckss396 said:


> To be honest I dont think the cam being "out of place" will be a problem other than the gears being meshed well. If the gears get the cam rotating with minimal slop i believe it will run and probably better than you think.
> 
> Have you checked the gear mesh yet?



Hi Steve/Michael

Thanks for your input, I moved the idler gear over to compensate for the error and the gears are quite snug with very minimal backlash, the biggest problem I can see is that the cam timing will be out slightly out, the cam is so far out of centre. Time will tell, Steve can you help me please I cannot find any info on the cam timing I have timed the engine by eye, with exhaust and inlet rocking on TDC on number 1 cylinder, but there must be an exact position for the cam relative to the piston position, I can find nothing in any of the drawings, do you have the info please?


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## stevehuckss396

I'll explain how to time everything when I get home from work and on a computer. Posting from a phone stinks.


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## stevehuckss396

OK i'm home!

Get a degree wheel fixed to the crankshaft. If you need one use the dial from the cam fixture
Find top dead center of cylinder #1 with an indicator 
Find something to use as a pointer and get it pointed at Zero degrees.
Rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise 110 degrees. (110 degrees BTDC)
install the distributor
install the cam and cam gear
Use the distributor to rotate the camshaft until cylinder #1 exhaust valve is fully open. Use indicator to verify. then tighten the screw in the cam gear locking it to the cam.

The camshaft should be timed correctly

Move the crankshaft clockwise back to Zero where you started. You are at the end of the exhaust stroke and beginning the intake stroke stroke.

Now rotate the crankshaft 335 degrees clockwise so that you are 25 degrees before top dead center.

Now you are at the end of the compression stroke and almost the beginning of the power stroke. Right about here is where you are going to fire the ignition. 

Install the rotor disk in the distributor and glue the brass contact to it so it is in place to fire cylinder #1. 

Heres the bad part. I cant remember how but 2 cylinders fire off the leading edge of the brass strip and 2 fire of the lagging or rear edge. If you cant figure out 
which way it works I'll dig into the drawings and figure out which way it goes in.


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## Davewild

Great stuff Steve, thanks so much, I have Bobs original drawing set and it has the ignition timing on there, i remember looking at it a working out which cylinder fires on the leading or trailing edge of the rotor arm, I to have forgotten now, wont need it for a while yet. Been working on the radiator, will try and post some pics, internet is real poor!!!


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## Davewild

Soldering the coolant tubes, bit messy but got to make do with what I have on hand, im actually in a 10' container on the back deck of the vessel!!!


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## Davewild

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## michael-au

Radiator is looking good Dave


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## Davewild

Think I got the scale a bit wrong, it to big!!!!
I used soldering paste for the tubes, great stuff, comes in a syringe, never used it before but will be using it again


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## michael-au

I have never used soldering paste either, might have to try it out

Looks good Dave

Should keep it cool enough

Michael


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## Davewild

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## Davewild

Some photos of my progress, all the small fittings are finished and so is the remake manifold, started on the carb today, damn its small!!! I haven't got a 1.5mm end mill which I need for the throttle stop on the carb, can i grind a 3mm one down? 
Does the engine oil viscosity have to scale down with size? Basically what oil do you use in these small engine ? I'm thinking thinner?


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## Davewild

Sorry for the photo quality, poor internet will not let me upload any better quality


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## michael-au

Good work Dave it's coming along nicely


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## Davewild

View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1461031134.113721.jpg
 hi all
Please help, i have nearly finished the carburettor. Hope fully you can read the drawing I have posted, i am confused about the air bleed hole. Firstly there is only one dimension .033 above the center line of the carburettor but no other dimension, I'm guessing its position is central? What exactly does the air bleed do? The note explain that if the engine leans out at full throttle increase the size of the hole by one drill size, surely if you increase the size the mix will get leaner? Can some one please explain its purpose and where it should be ?  Thanks in advance.

Dave


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## Davewild

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hopefully a better quality picture


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## Davewild

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Im so sorry for the last two pictures, the internet is so poor out here I am unable to upload better quality, I have tried two more close up photos, hopefully this will work.


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## Cogsy

I don't know about how the thing actually works, but Steve Huck followed the procedure and it worked so you shouldn't have any issues. A tip he gave me was to drill and tap the position for the air bleed hole larger (I used 4-40) then make up a threaded bolt/plug that you can then drill the air bleed hole in. If you mess up and make the bleed hole too big you can easily make another bolt/plug rather than dealing with too large a hole in the body of the carb. Should take most of the stress out of fine tuning the air bleed hole for best running.


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## michael-au

That small hole actually lets the fuel through into the carby

I think it's labeled wrong and is a bit confusing, the more you screw the needle out the more fuel can pass through the hole into the carby
Screw the needle in and it cuts down the fuel flow, the hole in the barrel is what controls the airflow


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## stevehuckss396

The air bleed is supposed to allow air into the carb at idle and be blocked by the drum when the throttle is moved off idle. The theory is that when the carb is adjusted to run well and rev up well it will be to rich a mixture at idle so a little air is mixed to lean it out in the idle position. instead of a hole I drilled and tapped mine. Now I can drill holes through 4-40 screws and use them like a jet. If I go too big I can just change to a smaller jet/screw. On my v8 the screw is tapered and used like a needle.


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## michael-au

Sorry I missundersood what part you meant


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## Davewild

Thank you all for your answers and time, I understand now how it works i think. It is drilled in the centre of the carb and once the throttle drum is in the idle position air passes through the bleed hole and is then admitted to the top of thr hole through the drum and then down into the carb/ manifold, as soo. As the throttle is opened the hole is covered.
Again thank you all for your time, i am progressing slowly, still got the carb to finish then the fuel tank, dip stick, I got two badly leaking exhaust valves, that bad that I can suck my finger onto the exhaust when turning the engine. Still a few more weeks yet, final strip down clean etc etc.
Again please, what oil do I use?

Dave


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## stevehuckss396

I use 10W-40 in my peewee


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## Davewild

Thanks Steve, I took your advice and used a 2mm set screw for the bleed hole. As for the oil I  dont think we got anything that thin on-board but I will find something, might have to use compressor oil until I get home.
Im thinking your V8 will be next Steve, is it much bigger?

Dave


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## Cogsy

Davewild said:


> Still a few more weeks yet, final strip down clean etc etc.


 
How is the Peewee going Dave, did you ever get it finished off or is it still in progress? I'll be back on mine soon and I'm hunting up all the old threads in preparation...


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## stevehuckss396

Davewild said:


> Thanks Steve, I took your advice and used a 2mm set screw for the bleed hole. As for the oil I  dont think we got anything that thin on-board but I will find something, might have to use compressor oil until I get home.
> Im thinking your V8 will be next Steve, is it much bigger?
> 
> Dave





I'm sorry Dave I missed the question at the end. The V8 is a little bigger having valve covers and much longer. It is still a 5/8 bore and stroke so if you did Peewee you should have no trouble.


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## Davewild

Cogsy said:


> How is the Peewee going Dave, did you ever get it finished off or is it still in progress? I'll be back on mine soon and I'm hunting up all the old threads in preparation...


Hi Cogsy
Yes the engine itself is finished, a few finishising touches to do on the radiator.
I have been trying to start it a few weeks ago, lots of noise but it wouldnt run properly, i stripped it down to bring home from work and have been so busy since I havent even unpacked it!!!


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## Cogsy

Looks fantastic! If it's making noise it can't be far off running... I'll hold my breath while I wait.


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## michael-au

Nice engine David, great job, hope to see it running


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## bluejets

Hi Dave,
            Nice work. 
Another Aussie engine builder here.
Several including 4 cylinder 25cc four stroke boat engine, runs on methanol, grinding machines for cams and also another for crankshafts. 
Presently doing castings for a v8 among other things. Mate of mine keeps me busy with electronic requests for his engines.
Wondered about your valve seats? Usually we cut our inserts at the same time as the valves.
Eliminates any difference in fit which can be a big problem, including hard to start.

What part of Thailand? We get back to see the family in Khon Kaen province every now and then.


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## michael-au

bluejets said:


> Hi Dave,
> Nice work.
> Another Aussie engine builder here.
> Several including 4 cylinder 25cc four stroke boat engine, runs on methanol, grinding machines for cams and also another for crankshafts.
> Presently doing castings for a v8 among other things. Mate of mine keeps me busy with electronic requests for his engines.
> Wondered about your valve seats? Usually we cut our inserts at the same time as the valves.
> Eliminates any difference in fit which can be a big problem, including hard to start.
> 
> What part of Thailand? We get back to see the family in Khon Kaen province every now and then.




Hi 
I was wonering if you have any pics of you cam and crank grinder,  would like to see them

Michael


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## bluejets

Hello Michael,
                    Certainly. I'll round them up and put some of my gear and builds in a new post.

Cheers...Jorgo


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## bluejets

Made a new post for machines etc. here....
There is included a link included to a couple of youtube videos also.

Cheers Jorgo

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?p=296548#post296548


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## Cogsy

Davewild said:


> I have been trying to start it a few weeks ago, lots of noise but it wouldnt run properly


 
The suspense is killing me! Have you made any progress on it yet?


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## Davewild

Cogsy said:


> The suspense is killing me! Have you made any progress on it yet?



Im so sorry guys, I have been so busy with other stuff, Cogsy yes its running but will not respond well to the throttle, more fettling to be done, promise to get back to you soon with a video


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## Cogsy

Davewild said:


> Im so sorry guys, I have been so busy with other stuff, Cogsy yes its running but will not respond well to the throttle, more fettling to be done, promise to get back to you soon with a video


 
That's great news Dave! :thumbup::thumbup: Congrats on having a runner. Whenever you get time for a video is fine, I know what it's like to be busy. I'm just glad it worked out for you. I'm sure it will get better with the throttle as everything beds in and you get the settings dialled in a bit more.


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