# My modified build of "Chucks Single"



## Metal Butcher (Apr 9, 2009)

A minor delay on the arrival spring weather gave me the chance to start another build. I decided on cfellows single cylinder, referred to as "Chucks Single." I admire this engine for many reasons, this is an air powered {4- stroke} engine that has good style and proportion. What really pushed it to the top of my build list was seeing and hearing a video of it run.

Here's the parts I made so far, not that much but it's a start. The base is 1/4" thick 1018 steel. The frame sides and front are made from 1/4'' thick aluminum scraps assembled with 4-40 screws. The cylinder is round 1-1/4" fine grain cast iron with the addition of cooling fins as a cosmetic touch.

Rather than completely dropping my hobby until the fall of the year, I will continue making parts when the weather allows time indoors.

EDIT: The words {Hit-miss} have been replaced with {4-stroke} in the second last sentence of the first paragraph.









-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 9, 2009)

Nice start, MB. Have you seen all the threads from here from different builders? 

This version http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3732.0, built by (Edited) PutPutMan operates as a true hit n miss version, with a governor. Note that it is a "2 stroke" version, in that it has no timing gears and the cam runs directly on the crankshaft.

Although there have been several people who have built a 4 stroke version, I don't believe anyone has successfully built a 4 stroke version that operates in Hit n Miss mode. Dreeves was working on one, but I've not seen whether he completed it or not.

Best of luck, let me know if you have any questions.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 9, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Nice start, MB. Have you seen all the threads from here from different builders?
> 
> This version http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3732.0, built by Superfast operates as a true hit n miss version, with a governor. Note that it is a "2 stroke" version, in that it has no timing gears and the cam runs directly on the crankshaft.
> 
> ...




OH NO! Now I'm confused. I got the plans from the down load section of the forum. Am I building a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke, and is it a hit-miss?

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 9, 2009)

The original engine was a 4 stroke engine and was NOT hit n miss. It has primary and secondary timing gears which causes the engine to "fire" every other revolution. I had originally planned to make it a hit n miss engine, thus the reason for the download file name.

My drawings do not include any hit n miss or governor parts. Unfortunately, the plans also don't include any specific drawings for the timing gears, the cam, or the cam follower. For now, that part is left up to the builder, so the engine can be built as either a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke. 

When Superfast built his version of the engine, he made a 2 stroke version then added his own governor design to make the engine operate as hit n miss. From a functional standpoint, it sounds the same as a 4 stroke hit n miss would sound. Actually, other than aesthetics, there is no reason to make the engine 4 stroke if you plan to add a governor and operate the engine as hit n miss. The thread by Superfast includes pictures and drawings of his engine which should make it pretty easy to duplicate.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 9, 2009)

All is well! I'm back on track.

The video I saw WAS the one YOU posted.

So, I'm building "Chucks single" a horizontal 4-stroke air engine.

All I need to do is Edit out (hit-miss) in my original post.

Thanks for straitening me out Chuck. :bow:

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 9, 2009)

Hey MB,

Here are some other threads with pictures and videos that might help:

GailInNM's engine: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2410.0

BretK's engine: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2422.0

PutPutMan's & Superfast's engines: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3732.0

Did I miss any?

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 11, 2009)

Out of necessity I made the cylinder head from two separate pieces of brass-stock brazed together. The largest piece I had on hand was a 1-1/2" hex. I think this helped to simplify the machining processes and shorten the construction time. After the lathe work was finished I could have cut off the cylinder head but decided to leave it attached temporarily. The hexagonal-shape facilitated the indexing used to drill the bolt-hole pattern. It also provided a handy way to hold the work piece for brazing and subsequent machining. 






My decision to use a six-bolt pattern on the cylinder head was based on personal preference. This left very little room for the bolts used to hold the exhaust flange. To accomplish this tight squeeze I used a .160" radius along with the use of 0-80 screws. I will also make a reduction in the diameter of the valve since two of the bolt heads touch at its 3/4" diameter. These minor changes should not be a problem.






If you look closely at the cylinder head, the intersection between the two brazed pieces cannot be seen. Although it really doesn't matter since the valve will cover that area at the front and the cylinder will cover it at the back. I have a few ideas that will require minor changes to the valve assembly. I will be posting these changes as the build progresses.






-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 11, 2009)

The two piece head is a great idea. Sure is a lot easier than whittling it out of one piece! Also makes me think of some other possibilities.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 12, 2009)

I machined the exhaust flange with a short 3/16" pipe stub and a 1/8' exit hole. This was necessary to clear the close .320 radius dictated by the clearance issue I created using a 6-bolt head pattern. in addition the exhaust valve spring will be held captive by the base of the flange.

The .250" exhaust valve bore was lightly lapped to fit a precision ground .250" s.steel slave valve piston. This piston to bore fit turned out very smooth and should work well. The text that Chuck provides indicates that the intake and exhaust ports are open at the same time. This can also be seen in the drawing that shows both ports open 50%. Since the center-to-center of the ports is .375" This means that the exhaust piston length should also be.375".

I made two extra pistons, one .392' long and the other .442" long. This raises the question of whether either- or- both will work and what effect will they have on the way the engine runs?

The spring I have on hand is .240 x .020x .500 and will not work since it will not close the valve due to its short length. Will a spring with the same diameter and wire size but .750 long work? Or is there a specific wire diameter, length, or preloaded compression length required to make the valve function properly?

Looking ahead at the intake valve it looks like a E-9 E-clip is needed. Is this correct?, and is there a quick-trick way to cut its groove on the valve stem? .

Sorry no picture today. My picture guy is off on a road trip.

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 12, 2009)

MB,

The .75" spring should work fine. The .020" wire size sounds perfect.

I use e-clips in my valve stems. To cut the groove, I use a dremel tool with an abrasive cutoff blade. This is easiest to do if you can be spinning it in the lathe while you cut the groove. I usually cut the groove before I part the valve off the rod it's turned from.

The length of the sliding piston valve isn't critical. I doubt you'll see any difference in performance. The reason I originally used two holes with a slave valve that doesn't quite span both holes is so part of the high pressure air coming in would escape out the exhaust before it closed, giving it a better sound. In my later designs, I only use one hole and a ball bearing instead of a cylindrical slave valve. Seems to work and sound about the same and is less work.

You may run into trouble if your slave valve is too close a fit in the hole. The slave valve takes quite beating when the high pressure air coming in slams it against the exhaust assembly. Over time, it may flatten and spread on the outboard side.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 13, 2009)

Hi Chuck, thanks for the help. I was concerned about ordering the wrong springs and being stuck with a non running engine on the day of assembly. Sounds like you already tried different springs and valve piston lengths. And your indication that the valve cylinder length is not all that critical is very reassuring.

I don't understand the valve slamming problem you mention completely. I'm a little concerned since my exhaust valve pistons are about .0005 clearance. Seems that the only contact the piston has on the outboard side is with its spring. Did you mean there's a slam on the valve side when the intake valve closes? And if so could this be averted by using a lighter aluminum slave valve piston and/or with a lighter spring?

Thanks for the tip using a Dremel to cut the groove! Makes my day! I was afraid the only option might be the $100. grooving tool system advertised in the monthly Enco catalog.

EDIT: I just came up with a simple solution to stop the mushrooming problem on the end of the piston. Why not just machine a step on the piston, say .030 x .030 on the offending end?

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 13, 2009)

MB,

Mushrooming might not be a problem, depending on how you are set up. On one of my engines, I had the exhaust spring recessed out into the exhaust manifold, so the slave valve would hit the exhaust manifold when the inlet valve opened. If the spring stops the valve, you probably won't have a problem.

Also, don't know how many e-clips you've installed, but be very careful not to cut the groove too deep or the e-clip won't stay on.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 13, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> MB,
> 
> Mushrooming might not be a problem, depending on how you are set up. On one of my engines, I had the exhaust spring recessed out into the exhaust manifold, so the slave valve would hit the exhaust manifold when the inlet valve opened. If the spring stops the valve, you probably won't have a problem.
> 
> ...



I never had the opportunity to cut a groove for an E-clip. It will be a first time for me, and it sounds a little tricky. 

However, I have successfully lost every one I ever removed! ;D

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 13, 2009)

The idea is to cut a little, then try it. Repeat until the clip will slide into the grove without forcing and with some spring action to hold it in place.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 13, 2009)

I made the two halves of the valve body and some additional pistons that include a small step on the intake side. The extra step was added for peace of mind since the piston spring will slam the piston when the intake valve closes.

Rather than machine the intake valve seat integral with the valve body, I step down an additional .110" x .250 to accept a separate valve seat. This will allow me to experiment with various materials and various sizes of valve- to- seat contact area.

I went shopping locally to find the E-clip. I visited Harbor Freight, three hardware stores, an appliance parts store, two auto parts stores and a machine shop supply outfit. I found larger clips, smaller clips, and no clips, no one had the required 3/32" clip.

When I was directed to a far away hobby shop I headed home and ordered online. After this proverbial "Wild Goose Chase" I will be happy to pay for the shipping! The valve stem will have to wait till my spring and E-clip order arrives. I will be trying a few ideas of strange ways that it can be made. This will undoubtedly be interesting!

Oh, and the three guys behind the counter at the machine shop supply had a blank (what?) look on there faces when I asked for a 3/32" E-clip! They all said they never heard of one or knew what it was! GO FIGURE!

A quick dive in their dumpster netted me three sealed but stained .34 oz. containers of 24300 medium Locktite. Not bad, at least I covered my gas expense. I will have to add them to my list of productive places to visit ;D

If you act like you're a little crazy, they usually leave you alone. :big:





















-MB


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## tel (Apr 13, 2009)

From the 'Frugal Files' - a simple ring of stainless steel spring wire does the same job as an 'E' clip, only neater.

Just wind up a bit of continuous closed spring, 1 wire diameter smaller than the shaft on the ID. Clip off individual rings as needed and slip 'em over the shaft and along until they click into the groove.


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 13, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> From the 'Frugal Files' - a simple ring of stainless steel spring wire does the same job as an 'E' clip, only neater.
> 
> Just wind up a bit of continuous closed spring, 1 wire diameter smaller than the shaft on the ID. Clip off individual rings as needed and slip 'em over the shaft and along until they click into the groove.



tel. That sounds like a good idea. As a matter of fact I've seen it done that way commercially on the end of a starter shaft to hold the gear, and a few other places too.

Its too late now. Theirs a 100 piece box of 3/32" E-clips headed my way!. :

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 13, 2009)

You've been busy, MB!

Hey, I like the idea of those nylon valve seats. Those should seat really well.

I also like the six head bolts and valve body bolts. Adds some style.

Tel, I like your spring ring retainer. What size spring wire do you reckon would be good for a 3/32 retainer?

By the way, I've got e-clips down to 1/16", although my 65 year old eyes and fingers make it increasingly hard to work with such small pieces. I lose about half of them when they fly out of my needle-nose piers never to be seen again.

Chuck


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## Maryak (Apr 13, 2009)

MB,

Very nice work. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 14, 2009)

My small parts order of springs and e-clips was just handed to me by a UPS courier!
I placed the online order at 1:45 PM yesterday and it arrived at 11:50 Am today. That's about a total of 22 hours. That's just amazing service from ENCO, with free shipping to boot! :bow:

I ordered a 10 pack of springs (#240-0568) for the slave exhaust valve piston, .240x .020x .750 and also a packet (#240-0569) 1.000 long just to be on the safe side and for future use.

I also ordered the elusive 3/32" e-clips E-9 (#325-2834) and also packets of 1/8" and 3/16" to have on hand for future use. These e-clips are a nicely made piece of assembly hardware. And they are very reasonable in cost. Small sizes are in the $2 -$3 range for 100 ct packs.

I was looking ahead earlier this morning at the crank dimensions, and again I'm lost, how to build the crank? I would prefer to braze a build up together but my last and only attempt produced 2 that were a little wobbly and a 3rd that I settled on but still not perfect enough to be satisfied with. Machining from solid is not a possibility due to lack of material and a thorough understanding of the cutter requirements.

When I looked at the drawings I downloaded there's two different views of the crank that are adding to my confusion. I don't have a lot of experience interpreting drawings, pictures work a little better for me, so I think I'll review all the previous posted builds.

EDIT" I just found a 3/8"x 1" bar of 1018 cold rolled steel bar 12" long!. Maybe tomorrow, and with a little more info I'll face this feared machining operation!

I,m heading down to tackle the valve stem.

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 14, 2009)

Apologies, MB, the bottom crankshaft drawing isn't particularly accurate. Here is an accurate view of the crank. The total width and thickness of the webs and the length of the connecting rod journal will all need to be adjusted a bit to suit your connecting rod thickness and the distance between your crankshaft bearings.

Chuck


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## radfordc (Apr 14, 2009)

Having just done a crank for Chuck's John Deere engine (and ruined the first one) I can appreciate your concern. Here are a couple of links to some good info on making cranks:
http://modelenginenews.org/techniques/crankshafts.html
http://modelenginenews.org/cirrus/crankshaft.html

The scary part is having a tool sticking out over an inch from the tool post and fitting it into the slot for the rod journal.

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 14, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Apologies, MB, the bottom crankshaft drawing isn't particularly accurate. Here is an accurate view of the crank. The total width and thickness of the webs and the length of the connecting rod journal will all need to be adjusted a bit to suit your connecting rod thickness and the distance between your crankshaft bearings.
> 
> Chuck



Chuck, no need to apologize. Others before me used your drawings and didn't have a problem building. Its just self inflicted confusion caused by a habit of over analyzing. The upper drawing on page 6 of the original download is what confused me. It shows the crank and piston rod journals at opposite ends of the web, and the lower drawing shows the crank journal central to the webs.

Wow, that's a long throw compared to what I normally build. If I made the webs as discs they would be approaching a fly wheel size!

The throw indicates that there will be about .050" head clearance for the piston. Is that correct, and is this the usual amount to aim for when drawing up a design?

Thanks.

-MB


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## bearcar1 (Apr 14, 2009)

I agree with you Rad', that sticking cutter about a mile long ;D into a slot in a piece of metal spinning at some un-godly speed  isn't exactly a calm and soothing experience. The thought terrifies me, but I am working up to attempting to overcome those fears. th_confused0052 in the future. Those site addresses go to some very interesting and thorough steps to machine up a crank from solid. The section marked con rods for the second listing is an interesting method using a ball turning attachment. cool. 8)


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## tel (Apr 14, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> You've been busy, MB!
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I have a small coil of fineish stainless that I use for little one like that - not sure of the size, I'll mike it up next time I go down there.


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## cfellows (Apr 14, 2009)

Here are a couple of drawings of how I proceed in making a crankshaft from solid, flat bar. Hope I haven't forgotten anything or gotten them out of sequence! :-[


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 14, 2009)

The valve stem project ended with success! I tested it with air pressure and there was a small amount of leakage. Then I remember that the seat needed to be set on a thin layer of gasket silicone. After I added the silicone step another series of tests showed the valve to be airtight.
I snapped a series of step-by-step photos that show the unusual way I made the valve stem. The idea was to use a simple and precise approach to make a functional part and it worked!

1) Rather than machining the outside diameter of the valve stem I used precision ground drill rod. After cutting to length the e-clip groove was added.






2) The valve stem head was cut from 3/16" scrap brass rod at 45 degrees to match the valve body seat. I drilled and reamed it undersized (.1865".) After adding a little Locktite to both parts, the tail stock chuck was used to press the stem into the valve stem head. Then the finished valve stem was cut off using a parting tool.






3) Below is the valve stem installed part way into the lower half of the valve body. 






4) Below is the completed valve and a supply of spare parts. If you focus on one of the brass seats you can see tool chatter, something I didn't notice before. The camera does not lie.
Chuck was correct when he indicated the difficulty in handling one of these small e-clips. Trying to pick one up with my fingers drove me to the edge of insanity! After I walked away to take a break a solution came to mind. I used a piece of Scotch tape held between my thumb and forefinger to pick it up at the open end. Then with the help of my bench magnifier I grabbed it on the opposite end with a pair of precision needle nose pliers and installed the clip in it's groove. 






-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 14, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Here are a couple of drawings of how I proceed in making a crankshaft from solid, flat bar. Hope I haven't forgotten anything or gotten them out of sequence!



Thank you Chuck! :bow:

That just what's needed before I embark on the seemingly impossible crank shaft voyage! :big:

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 14, 2009)

That's a good idea of using loctite to put the valve together. Which variety of loctite did you use?

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 14, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> That's a good idea of using loctite to put the valve together. Which variety of loctite did you use?
> 
> Chuck



Hi Chuck. I used green 609 to assemble the built up valve stem. I'm really relying more on the press fit due to using a .1865" reamer (under size).

I forgot to add that another good choice (besides Acetal) for the separate valve seat would be hard urethane. I have some rod stock that I was going to use, but forgot all about it. :

The use of a material like urethane is based on a previous experience when I used it to seal valves subjected to 900 lbs of pressure. It was not my idea , I was just replacing very old existing seats used on a valve stem system nearly identical to your engine valve.

-MB


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## radfordc (Apr 14, 2009)

In Chuck's drawing, note how the tools are angled. The drawing is a little exaggerated, but the idea is correct. The angle keeps the shank of the tool clear of the side of the slot. The first crank I screwed up I didn't do this and the tool caught on the work and jerked it out of the chuck...and bent the crap out of it.

Charlie


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## cfellows (Apr 15, 2009)

Good point, Charlie, thanks for emphasizing that. The angle in my drawing is 5 degrees, but it doesn't need to be that severe. If you don't angle the tool, the side of the crank web will taper inward or, worst case, grab the web and create mayhem!

Also, you probably could get by with a 1/8" thick cutoff blade if you don't have 3/16".

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 16, 2009)

I followed Chuck's informative drawings and text to machine the crankshaft from a solid piece of cold rolled steel. After the layout I drilled the required hole and sawed the relief cuts. To my surprise the steel sprung quite a bit and this was verified with micrometer measurements. The picture below shows the blank drilled and the relief cut. Look at the measurements written-in on the upper drawing!








I ground the profiles and clearance angles on three 3/16" round carbide tool bits to make the required cutters. My DRO (0-1.000" Dial Read Out) had to be removed to clear the large face plate that came with my lathe. This left me to rely on the hand wheel dials. This and the vanishing view of the work piece when it was spinning was a little nerve racking. I spent a good amount of time taking very light cuts and lots of breaks to relax my nerves. This also allowed a cool down period for the work piece. Below is a picture of the set up used and one of the cutters I made in its simple tool holder.








I adjusted the dimensions on the crank to suite my idea and way of doing these things. The altered drawing below shows that the crank will be spaced away from the bearing blocks with two .040" spacers. I may just use longer length bushings and press them in standing proud by .040".

I think that I could have made at least four crank shafts using a build-up brazed together in the time it took to machine this one from solid. But then I would still be fearfully avoiding this preferred method used by most builders with more experience. 
Would I recommend machining a crank from solid to a beginner? Definitely not!
Will I do it again? Probably so.
Will I enjoy doing it again? Probably not.

Below is the finished crank. I parkerized it (a chemical surface treatment) as a precaution against rust and I also prefer its look compared to raw or painted steel.






-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 16, 2009)

MB, you did a darned fine job on that Crank. And it does get easier and more intuitive as you do more of them.

I acctually prefer the cut-from-solid approach. I'm fearful that the soldered / brazed approach just won't come out straight and square!

Different strokes...

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 16, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> MB, you did a darned fine job on that Crank. And it does get easier and more intuitive as you do more of them.
> 
> I acctually prefer the cut-from-solid approach. I'm fearful that the soldered / brazed approach just won't come out straight and square!
> 
> ...



I use a precision bored jig to hold everything together while brazing. I found that most if not all cases the "warping" was really just a set up misalignment. Using dissimilar metals is another culprit. Getting impatient and throwing water at a hot crank or a quick cool water dip is a great way to produce a first class "Pretzel Crank."!

Of course I never did anything stupid like that, I just heard a few stories. :

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 16, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> I use a precision bored jig to hold everything together while brazing. I found that most if not all cases the "warping" was really just a set up misalignment. Using dissimilar metals is another culprit. Getting impatient and throwing water at a hot crank or a quick cool water dip is a great way to produce a first class "Pretzel Crank."!
> 
> Of course I never did anything stupid like that, I just heard a few stories. :
> 
> -MB



Wouldn't mind seeing a picture of that jig. Sounds useful.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 17, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Wouldn't mind seeing a picture of that jig. Sounds useful.
> 
> Chuck



No problem, I'll post a picture of the crank building jig. I will build a jig for the John Deere crank along with posting its photos and exact dimensions. 

To build the jig I searched looking for dimensional drawings and finally gave up. Where are the John Deere plans that others have-used or are-using? All I found was one picture in the file repository. Are they building a similar look and making up there own dimensions? 

Its was on my mind to use a built up crank on this build, but I really needed to break away and machine one from solid.

Thanks. -MB


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## radfordc (Apr 17, 2009)

MB, I drew up a set of plans in TurboCad for the John Deere. I started with the pictures and dimensions that Chuck posted in his thread and just drew everything to fit from those. I can send you a file of the drawing if you want. I will be leaving for the NAMES show at noon today and be back home on Sunday evening.

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 17, 2009)

radfordc  said:
			
		

> MB, I drew up a set of plans in TurboCad for the John Deere. I started with the pictures and dimensions that Chuck posted in his thread and just drew everything to fit from those. I can send you a file of the drawing if you want. I will be leaving for the NAMES show at noon today and be back home on Sunday evening.
> 
> Charlie



THANKS! That file would be a great! I don't really have the ability to build without drawings. Learning how to machine and become a successful engine builder is my goal. Learning computer skills and mechanical design/ engineering is not what I had in mind for my remaining years. Being left behind and not being able to built some of the interesting designs presented on this forum is very frustrating. I would imagine that most members with my handicaps and disabilities wouldn't even bother to post or become involved with certain projects. 

I don't want this to sound like I'm complaining. There is a great deal of helpfull and willing members on this forum. And I'm thankful to all of them for their patients. However, It could be that my motivation is causing a little frustration and impatients on my part.

I look forward to getting your TurboCad drawings. Thanks again!

=MB


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## ozzie46 (Apr 17, 2009)

MB
 I am very interested in those plans as well. I have Turbocad deluxe V-12.
 If you are willing to share them I would be very grateful.


  Ron


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 17, 2009)

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> MB
> I am very interested in those plans as well. I have Turbocad deluxe V-12.
> If you are willing to share them I would be very grateful.
> 
> ...



Sure will Ron. When I get them I can send a copy If its OK with radfordc. If I start the build before you do than you can follow my build and ask questions. And I'll be more than happy to assist in any way I can.

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 17, 2009)

I had started to make up drawings, but unfortunately, we've been trying to get our house ready to sell and time has been at a premium for several weeks now. Also, drawing up formal plans is not my strong suit. I did draw up some bits and pieces to help out some of the others who wanted to build the JD Engine.

Luckily, sounds like Charlie had more perserverance than I did and has come up with drawings. I had no idea the engine would generate so much interest!

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 18, 2009)

Yesterday I made the piston, piston rod, and it's wrist pin. The piston was made from aluminum to offset the weight of the steel piston rod. I'm concerned that it's weight coupled with the off balance crank design will create excessive vibration. My hope is that the vibration won't effect the way the engine runs. This remains to be seen during the first test run.

I may also have a problem with the piston to cylinder fit. The cylinder bore is .7500" after honing with a wheel cylinder honing tool and the piston is .7497'' after a light clean up and polishing. When tested dry the piston slides back and forth as if it were gliding on air, or in other words almost frictionless. When I add a small amount of turbine oil it feels like I'm dragging a stick through a bucket of tar! I made the cylinder days ago and thought that it's bore was .7505". This is what I get for not rechecking just prior to machining the piston.

I'm lucky that the piston rod bearing surfaces fit the entire surface of the crank pin journal evenly. Below is a photo showing the finished rod and piston.









In an earlier post Chuck (cfellows) asked to see a picture of the crankshaft fixture I use during soldering/brazing operations when building a crank from separate pieces. I remembered that I still had a jig and an extra crank made with it's help. I will be making a crank fixture to the exact specs of Chuck's John Deere engine to see if I can duplicate my previous success using this method. 

Below is a picture of a fixture and crank used on a previous engine. The crank shows the reason why I parkerize steel parts to prevent rust. It was made from 12 machined brass pieces and 3 lengths of steel shafting.






-MB


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## putputman (Apr 19, 2009)

Chuck, both your horizontal and your John Deere generated a ton of interest. 

I hope you get settled in your new home and get back on Alibre and start designing some new engines for us to work on next winter. Counting on you!!!

Of all the engines I have built, I probably run the John Deere the most. It is so simple to run & I love the sound.


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## cfellows (Apr 19, 2009)

MB, good progress on the horizontal single. One thing to note is that the piston / cylinder fit isn't terribly critical - better too loose than too tight. Don't get me wrong, I'm not encouraging sloppy work, but compressed air engines are pretty forgiving of less than perfect work. Also, I doubt that balance will be a problem. You don't typically run this engine at very high RPM, even though it is capable of it.

Arv, I'm actually working on a scaled down, compressed air version of Randall Cox's Hoglett. It will either be a 3/4" or 5/8" bore and may use a valve assembly similar to the horizontal single. However, I'm also considering an overhead, ball bearing valve similar to that used by Liney's Halo engine. All depends on whether or not I want to mess with rocker arms. On this engine, I will complete the drawings before I do a build.

Chuck


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## ozzie46 (Apr 19, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> Sure will Ron. When I get them I can send a copy If its OK with radfordc. If I start the build before you do than you can follow my build and ask questions. And I'll be more than happy to assist in any way I can.
> 
> -MB




  Thanks MB. I probably wont start for a while. I am doing a Elmers Beam Engine And I have been cutting parts for 3 or 4 2 cyl engines so will be busy for a while.

  Ron


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 19, 2009)

I was at the N.A.M.E.S. show today and bought a pair of bronze Solar FWC-S7 3" flywheels from PMR. They looked really nice and I could not resist the temptation. I'm not sure that they are the correct size. I'm guessing that they should be OK since the plans seem to visually indicate that they are 3''. If I'm wrong I can always use them on another build.

I feel as though I'm cheating using cast flywheels on this build. Before the guys that build engines from casting kits charge at me with pitch forks let me explain my "attitude."

I feel that an engine build from castings should have cast flywheel(s). And I also feel that an engine machined from bar stock should have fabricated flywheel(s). This does not mean that I will always follow my own silly notions. 

If you are one of the proud but silent builders of "Chucks Single" please feel free to divulge your flywheel of choice or any flywheel suggestions you may have.

Choices, choices. ???

-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 19, 2009)

My (original) horizontal single has 3", cast bronze flywheels that I bought from Tiny Power a good many years ago.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 19, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> My (original) horizontal single has 3", cast bronze flywheels that I bought from Tiny Power a good many years ago.
> 
> Chuck



I could order a pair of those but I think the PMR ones I just bought are pretty close to the same.

However, I have a pair Tiny Power 2-1/2 bronze that I'm also considering, although the 3" seem well per portioned to the engine size.

These are the 2-1/2" Tiny Power ones I have.

http://www.tinypower.com/store2.php?crn=60&rn=298&action=show_detail

These should be the ones Chuck used.

http://www.tinypower.com/store2.php?crn=60&rn=297&action=show_detail



-MB


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## radfordc (Apr 19, 2009)

OK guys. I just posted my drawing of the John Deere motor to the plans section. I created the drawing using TurboCad v6.5 and also saved it as a DXF file. If you have any trouble opening the file contact me and I will see if I can figure something else.

Charlie


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## radfordc (Apr 19, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> I was at the N.A.M.E.S. show today and bought a pair of bronze Solar FWC-S7 3" flywheels from PMR.
> -MB



It's a shame we were in the same room this morning and didn't get to chat about building these models. Maybe some other time.

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 19, 2009)

I tried to find you, but no luck. Where were you located?

-MB


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## radfordc (Apr 19, 2009)

I wasn't displaying, but just admiring everybody else's work. I did meet Phil Olts on Saturday and had a nice visit.

Charlie


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## tel (Apr 20, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Tel, I like your spring ring retainer. What size spring wire do you reckon would be good for a 3/32 retainer?
> 
> 
> Chuck



Finally remembered to hunt it out and mike it up - 0.018"


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 20, 2009)

radfordc  said:
			
		

> OK guys. I just posted my drawing of the John Deere motor to the plans section. I created the drawing using TurboCad v6.5 and also saved it as a DXF file. If you have any trouble opening the file contact me and I will see if I can figure something else.
> 
> Charlie



Thanks for adding the PDF type files. :bow:

Those are the only ones I can open! :

Now every one can access the drawings you created. ;D

Good work, (and I'm sure it was a lot of work) and thanks again for your contribution.

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 20, 2009)

Todays rain and cold took me down to the shop to make a few parts.

I cut stock to make the bearing blocks. to place the holes for the crank and cam/gear the gears need to be reduced in width and their mesh test fitted. But how much? After looking at the plan it shows the valves 3/8" diameter intersecting with the cylinders out side diameter. So, I have .187" to fit in both the gear and cam according to the fist page a overall view?

Looks like I misread the drawing of the cylinder head?

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?action=tpmod;dl=item177


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## radfordc (Apr 20, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> Thanks for adding the PDF type files. :bow:
> 
> Those are the only ones I can open! :
> 
> ...



Just remember I'm not a professional draftman, nor have the drawings been QC'ed. If you find something that doesn't make sense...it's probably wrong.

Charlie


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 20, 2009)

radfordc  said:
			
		

> Just remember I'm not a professional draftman, nor have the drawings been QC'ed. If you find something that doesn't make sense...it's probably wrong.
> 
> Charlie



Hi Charlie. I understand what your saying. You are in the process of building according to the plans you uploaded. If and when you find a problem hopefully you will make any correction(s) to the file. I,m getting stuck on the current project and not ready to start another build at this point. I tried skipping around a while back and it turned into a mess that I vowed to never repeat.

 Thanks, your post was very prudent just in case someone starts building before you have a chance to finish and proof the plans.

-MB
-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 20, 2009)

MB, you can can make the timing gears and cam wider than 3/8" then adjust the dimensions of the cam follower bracked at needed to align with the intake valve stem and the push rod. See picture below...


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 21, 2009)

Yesterday I made the bearing blocks and fitted them to the side frames. The blocks are ready for pressed-in bronze bushings that will be installed after painting.








Without any specific dimensions available for the cam shape and size, I made a cam to resemble photos posted previously on other threads.








Below is a picture of the roughed out cam, ready for cut off.








This picture shows the PMR bronze cast flywheels that Im considering for this build. The cam was bored for a snug fit on the hub of the large gear. Rather then use Locktite, I attached it with one 0-80 cap screw. On the right is the smaller gear on its hub. I made this a permanent assembly by using Locktite. The brass hub was cross drilled and tapped for a 4-40 set screw that will hold it to the crank shaft.






-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 22, 2009)

MB, looks great! The cam and gears should work perfectly. Looks like you are in the home stretch.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 22, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> MB, looks great! The cam and gears should work perfectly. Looks like you are in the home stretch.
> 
> Chuck



Good morning Chuck. 
Still a long way to go. I have some free time over the next two days due to bad weather. Maybe I can make some progress on the cam follower.
Small problem tho. I need to get off my lazy ... mode that's also brought on by bad weather and a few other excuses I use! ;D
 Oh, by the way, does the cam shape look like it will work? I made it removable in case its wrong.
-MB


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## cfellows (Apr 22, 2009)

Yes, the cam shape looks perfect.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 23, 2009)

Today I made the cam follower and it's roller. The follower was machined out of standard 360 brass. It would have been good to have used a ball bearing for the roller but I decided that a hard 660 bronze roller would suffice. It can be easily be replaced with a ball bearing if the bronze one proves to be inadequate. I made the roller shaft out of very hard to machine steel. This should hold up well to the friction of the bronze roller. The design of the follower was based around dimensions for a standard 1/4" x 1/2" x 3/16'' wide ball bearing for quick and easy replacement. I drilled and tapped the front of the follower 4-40. The rod between the follower and the valve stem will likely be a brass 3/16" rod with a protruding 4-40 stud.
Not sure what to do about the v-stem end, it looks like an adjustable cap screw was used by previous builders.

I did not use any ball bearings on this build. This may prove to be a mistake that could have been overcome by building the motor as a 2-stroke. 












-MB


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## RobWilson (Apr 23, 2009)

Looking mighty fine MB intresting engine build ;D
Rob


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## Maryak (Apr 23, 2009)

MB,

Great progress. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## cfellows (Apr 23, 2009)

Looks great, MB. I would suggest that you put extra thread on the follower end of the push rod so you can adjust the length of the push rod (and valve clearance) by screwing it in or out. You could use a lock nut to lock it where you want it. Then you can simply drill a shallow hole in the valve end to accept the valve stem. Also, you might consider a 1/8" push rod. 3/16" might be a bit heavy looking.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 28, 2009)

1) Wow did I get an extreme example of a sun burn from 3 full days of motorcycle riding. Today's rain gave me the opportunity to take a break from the sun, finish up this build, and post the final results and pictures.

I used a brass 3/16" push rod attached to the cam follower with a 4-40 stud. On its front end a 4-40 cap screw and nut allow for adjustments. It is also a perfect fit for the end of the valve stem. The 3/4" long .020" exhaust valve spring was too stiff and required 20 psi to run the motor. I switched it to a ½ long .020" spring and it ran on 5 psi. Still not satisfied I tried a 3/4" long .016 spring and it ran on 2 psi! A motor that runs on low pressure is my goal and to me indicates a successful build. After a 15 minute break-in period it now runs well on 1psi every time. 








2) The photo below shows the 6 bolt pattern I used on the valve and cylinder head. I like the look of cap screws on small areas like bearing blocks and cylinder heads. I also like button head screws on larger areas like supporting structures and bases. Purists will disagree with my choice but after all it is my build. I made the intake as a separate piece using 3/16" model pipe tapped 10-40. 








3) The size of the exhaust pipe and its flange were kept to minimum since it is held on by two small 0-80 cap screws. The front of the bearing block that holds the cam gear was rounded to suit.








4) I used 660 bearing bronze for the crank bearings and cam roller. I was concerned that with out ball bearings, the use of plain bearings would cause too much friction. This could have prevented the crank from cycling 4 strokes for a return to the firing position.
I was wrong! The engine will easily cycle 6 to 8 strokes after cutting off a 1 to 2 psi supply pressure.








5) The birds-eye shot below shows the spacers I added between the fly wheels and bearing blocks to bulk up the look of the crank shaft. It seemed that the large 3" flywheels made the crank shaft look somewhat undersized.








6) This last photo shows a different angle of the gears and cam arrangement.








My thanks go out to both Chuck (cfellows) for providing the drawings and the additional build information I needed, and also to Gail (GailInNM) for generously donating the correct gears to make my build possible. I would also like to thank the rest of the members on this forum for their support and encouragement. 
:bow: :bow:

-MB


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## GailInNM (Apr 28, 2009)

Great build MB !!  :bow: :bow: :bow:
Gail in NM,USA


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## RobWilson (Apr 28, 2009)

GREAT WORK MB FINE LOOKING ENGINE
ROB :bow:


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## Maryak (Apr 28, 2009)

MB,

Beautiful Engine. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## bearcar1 (Apr 28, 2009)

MB, nicely executed and a very neat and clean engine. BRAVO! ;D It sounds like you have it dialed in well to run down to 1PSI, quite an accomplishment indeed. :bow:


BC1


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## putputman (Apr 28, 2009)

Beautiful job MB. You really did a nice job on the finishing touches with the paint, brass, & metal cylinder. The combination really sets it off.


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## cfellows (Apr 28, 2009)

Another MB Masterpiece! Beautiful execution.

Now, if only we could see and hear it running...  

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 28, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Another MB Masterpiece! Beautiful execution.
> 
> Now, if only we could see and hear it running...
> 
> Chuck



Chuck, you will have to take my word for it.

It runs great.

Really great!

-MB


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## bearcar1 (Apr 28, 2009)

Running? :big: Who said anything about running? Geesh, a tough crowd here tonight, they want it to run as well as look nice!!!! Rof}

BC1


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 28, 2009)

Below are two pictures taken consecutively. The first one shows the blurred spinning flywheels, and the second shows the pressure gauge. Running on one pound of air. No camera tricks involved, or trickery of any type! Not exactly video, just use you imagination with the sound.

Oh, and It sounds great!


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## Metal Butcher (May 12, 2009)

This is my first video ever, it was posted with the help of a friend. It's not the best quality but you can see and hear the engine running. The motor was placed on a 2X2 square foot piece of cardboard which I placed over the cluter on my work bench. This caused quite a bit of bounce that can be seen. At the very end of the video, while trying to rotate the motor, I blocked the exhaust port which stalled the motor, oops! Throughout the entire video the motor is running 2 PSI of compressed air.

-MB

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DkBhHVbtKtU[/ame]


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## bearcar1 (May 12, 2009)

Ooops! Whadda' ya' mean OOPS! Rof} Rof} Rof} Rof} Veeerrrry Nice running engine ;D

BC1


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## Paolo (May 12, 2009)

Whaooooooooo nice sound!!!! :big: :big: :big: My compliments!!
Cheers Paolo


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## Shopguy (May 12, 2009)

MB that's one sweet running engine. Congratulations! :bow:
Ernie J


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## rake60 (May 12, 2009)

Beautiful runner MB! :bow:

Rick


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## cfellows (May 12, 2009)

Beautiful job on that engine, MB. Also has a great exhaust note. Sounds just like the real thing!

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 7, 2009)

Metalbutcher---What an excellent thread!!! And what a neat running engine. Congratulations and a karma to you!!! I have been researching all the threads related to Chuck Fellows engine and Superfasts conversion of it to a hit and miss engine. Many of my unanswered questions are now much clearer because of your excellent pictures in this thread. Thank you very much.---Brian


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 7, 2009)

MetalButcher - thanks for the thread. Beautiful engine.
I had read some of the thread some time ago...I reread it tonight.

What is 'parkerize'?
What color green is that and where did you get it?

As for the purist (your comment about screws)...yeah I don't worry about them. Once in a while you come across someone (purist or not) who's looking down their nose. Risky...I might be trying to stuff something up it. 

Again thanks. Very enjoyable.


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## radfordc (Jun 11, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> What is 'parkerize'?



From Wikipedia:
Parkerizing (also called phosphating and phosphatizing) is a method of protecting a steel surface from corrosion and increasing its resistance to wear through the application of an electrochemical phosphate conversion coating. Parkerizing is usually considered to be an improved zinc or manganese phosphating process, and not to be an improved iron phosphating process, although some use the term parkerizing as a generic term for applying phosphating (or phosphatizing) coatings that does include the iron phosphating process. Parkerizing is commonly used on firearms as a more effective alternative to bluing, which is another electrochemical conversion coating that was developed earlier. The Parkerizing process cannot be used on non-ferrous metals such as aluminum, brass, or copper. It similarly cannot be applied to steels containing a large amount of nickel, or on stainless steel. (See Passivation for protecting other metals.)


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