# Myford lathe



## packrat (Dec 21, 2019)

There is a Myford lathe for sale close where I live it a 7"x 22" with tooling, but he is asking about $1300.00 for it
are Myfords worth that much.? I am in the Western USA..


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## Charles Lamont (Dec 21, 2019)

Depends on model and specification, what tooling, and condition. Don't know about US prices but you will find numerous examples for comparison under 'Myford' on UK Ebay.


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## packrat (Dec 21, 2019)

Thanks, the Photos show the ML7 inch has 3 jaw and 4 jaw face plates milling attachment looks like original color. Have not called the seller yet, have been looking at UK lathes about the Myford..


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## goldstar31 (Dec 22, 2019)

The ML7 is quite an old lathe but if it has been well cared for, it can be a good buy.

Two places to look:-

1. The lead indium bearings in the spindle
2. Wear 6" from the nose of the spindle shown on Number 1 shear!


'bin there'

Norman


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## awake (Dec 22, 2019)

My impression is that Myfords are to the UK what South Bends are to the US. I don't know if or to what extent that is true with regard to capabilities - I have only ever seen home-sized Myfords, but the South Bends include both home-size and much larger. However, I'm thinking in particular about name recognition. South Bends and Bridgeports can command a greater price than  other equivalent machines simply due to name recognition. I'm thinking the same may be true of a Myford, particularly for anyone with UK context or connections.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 22, 2019)

The South Bend design in the UK is really the Boxford but apart from the swing, it seems impossible to drop the Boxfords speed below 100 rpm for facing and for screwcutting.

There are pros and cons for both but I cannot remember the  pro ones for the Boxford!


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## awake (Dec 22, 2019)

Interesting. Does the Boxford have the name recognition in the UK that South Bend has in the US?


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## fcheslop (Dec 22, 2019)

From personal experience Boxfords and Colchester lathes tended to be found in apprentice training establishments
Myfords tended to be in schools although some had Boxfords
This was in the days of indentured apprenticeships and many companies had the foresight to  keep a good stock of available skilled personnel
I would think that they are both held in high esteem although the Myford cannot be described as a tooroom machine its main advantage was its versatility when cheap milling machines did not exist
It gave the reasonably well healed model engineer a competent machine.The rest of us had to manage with old Drummonds and such like
Iv worn several Myfords out over the years and currently own a ML7R a cheap version of the Super Seven.Iv only stayed with Myford because I already have the tooling and Im to lazy and tight to remake or buy what I need
Just my two bobs worth
cheers


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## DanP (Dec 23, 2019)

I'm on my second Myford.  I first had an ML 7 then I had a chance to buy a Super 7.  I sold the ML 7 for $1,800 and paid $2,000 for the Super 7.  Though both were used, both were in exceptional condition.   Most Myford lathes are used to make small parts and therefore usually not in bad shape.   Condition is everything with any used equipment.  Also the cost of a lathe is divided in half, 50% for the machine and 50% for the tooling.


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## tjwal (Dec 23, 2019)

The only Boxford that I’m familiar with is almost an exact copy of the Southbend 9A.  The only significant difference, for better or worse, is the Boxford use of roller bearings in the headstock. 
With the belts set for lowest speed and in back gear spindle rpm is about 50.


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## dazz (Dec 23, 2019)

Hi
I don't have a Boxford or a Myford, but I have used both so I think I can offer a reasonably balanced opinion.  

The Myford is versatile and if you get the accessories, it can do a lot of things.  The Tee slot cross slide is a particularly good feature.  So good that a previous owner made an equivalent for one of my lathes (Denford Viceroy = Rolls Royce Boxford).  The Myford is a small lathe good for small spaces and making small things.

The Boxford is bigger and more powerful.  There are similar accessories.  You want to buy the accessories with the lathe because accessories sold separately are often very expensive.

Both lathes suffer the disadvantages of a single lead shaft / feed screw.

lathes.co.uk is a good reference site for lathes and other machine tools.

If you have a choice then choose:
1.  The one in the best condition
2.  The one with the most accessories,
3.  The one that matches the size of work you want to make.



Dazz


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## goldstar31 (Dec 23, 2019)

This is as good as the Parson's egg!

Actually there are at least 5 tee slotted boring tables on the various Myford models and they have one common fault in that they are weak. 
For those who have a copy of Martin Cleeve's Screwcutting in the Lathe where he uses a much modified Myford ML7 will note that his is not any of them. He tore a tee slot out of his in what must have been a monumental 'Dig in'. He, as I said had a ML7 whereas I was given a top slide for a Super7 which had been torn out the boring table.  My experience is less than either but I once bought a Super7 B( i.e with a gearbox) where I discovered the the boring table had  warped  by someone who had used long tee bolts incorrectly.

Cleeve, incidentally published a fabricated modification and published it in an early issue of Engineering in Miniature.  He also published his patent applied for swing tool holder in that publication later.
My present old sight glass Super7B had severe damage as the previous owner had somehow filled the gear box with mahogany dust!

There you have it. For those with old copies of mOdel Engineer might find a write up of how I overhauled a basket case  ML7 for a friend.  It was Blancharded, if you know what this is

Norm


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## Charles Lamont (Dec 23, 2019)

I think Norm is describing misuse. Anything is capable of being broken, and some people are capable of breaking anything.

I bought a Myford Super-7 new, to replace my second-hand ML7, 46 years ago, and it is still almost as good as new. Very early on, I had a job shift on the faceplate and jam against the bed gap, stripping some teeth off the back-gear and bullwheel. Since then, I have replaced drive belts, and I think I probably replaced the top- and cross-slide feedscew nuts. I may have replaced the leadscrew half nuts. I don't think so, but cannot remember for sure.


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## fcheslop (Dec 23, 2019)

One of the worst features of the Myford and one that often has me spitting teeth is the small through hole in the headstock spindle.For the size of machine its ridiculous
This should have been addressed long before they eventually did
They also removed a lot of mass from the beds on later lathes and they seem to be more flexible or at least my factory refurbished machine  is and it often needs resetting but then again its not in a toolroom environment with temp and humidity control 
If I was starting out would I buy a Myford ? probably not but hindsight is a wonderful thing and Im getting to long in the tooth to invest in a good toolroom machine in good condition 
The Myford as already mentioned is a versatile compact machine not without its faults but then again it can do a good job when needed
I did look at the mid ranged Chinese machines when my ML7 was no longer viable but decided lifes to short to spend a lot of time correcting it


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## dazz (Dec 23, 2019)

Hi
The Myford was a great choice when disposable income and available space were limited.    A lot of amazing things have been made with Myfords but I chose not to buy one. I had the space and the $$ to buy something better.  That is not to say that Myfords are a bad choice.  They just don't meet my requirements.

My preference is for old good quality machine tools in good condition.  Many prefer new Chinese machines.  If you stay away from the super cheap ones at the bottom of the market, the quality is improving.


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## accelo (Dec 24, 2019)

I love the Myford Lathe.
For the most part it does what I ask of it and is very accurate.  I agree small through hole in the head-stock spindle is a pain.
It makes up for some of it short comings with the "T" slotted table.  Nothing work better for cutting off on the back side and the little lathe can do impressive parting with ease.
The large feed and speed range is also nice.  As it the fast feed and long range of the tail stock ram.
As a comparison I have one of the small, made in Taiwan, South Bend lathe SB001. The tail stock handle requires 20 turn per inch of feed.  The Myford requires 3 turns per inch.
The Myford also has another inch of travel in the tail stock over the South Bend.  No quick change gearbox on the South Bend either.  South Bend does have a modern VFD drive which is nice.
The SB is a great accurate lathe but I much prefer the feel and function of the Myford.

When comparing the Myford to the old USA versions they are closer it feel, fit and finish.  Must be something that Myford did correctly because the Myford's cost almost double what a used South Bend costs.


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## comstock-friend (Dec 24, 2019)

For the western USA, a South Bend will give you a better selection of tooling than the Myford. Lots currently available on eBay, most with QC gear boxes. Change gears get old after a while unless the Myford you are looking at has a gearbox. My last South Bend came with a horizontal mill, machinist tools and tooling, plus lots of materials; all for $800 in SoCal a couple of years ago. Deals are out there to be had!

John


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## Apprentice707 (Dec 25, 2019)

If I can weigh in on this, I have owned a lathe of some description since I was 10 years old, (I am now 73). During that time I have owned American, German, Chinese and UK manufactured machines. I had an old 5 inch (10 inches for our American friends) Atlas which was well worn, but that withstanding I used it to build various small steam engines. To follow that I had 2 IXL lathes one of German origin and the other a British version, both were a bit noisy but still performed reasonably well. For the last 25 years, I have owned a Myford Super 7 which I paid £100 for and when I had had the bed reground it was like new and has served me well. I also have a round bed Drummond which is treadle driven, a Chinese mini lathe and a Super Adept. In addition to these, I have had a Coronet Minor and Myford ML8 wood lathes, the ML8 is now with my Daughter.

The Super Adept has travelled around the world with me and has satisfied my need to "cut metal" in some remote parts of the world.

All these machines have their strengths and weaknesses but for now, the Myford Super 7 serves my needs best although the Chinese lathe (now I have replaced the bearings) comes in a close second. 
You pays your money and takes your chances, but probably the Myford would be my choice again.

Happy turning

B


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## accelo (Dec 25, 2019)

_There is a Myford lathe for sale close where I live it a 7"x 22" with tooling, but he is asking about $1300.00 for it
are Myfords worth that much.? I am in the Western USA.._

I also live in SW Washington State USA. Frankly I would consider _$1300.00 _a bargain.   They just don't come up for sale much.
I drove 2200 miles to pick up my Myford.   Of course you didn't say if it was a Super 7 or a  _ML 7  or if it had a quick change gearbox.  
I have yet to see A large bore Super 7 with power cross slide for sale in this area.
It would likely bring three times the $1300.00 price you mentioned._


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## goldstar31 (Dec 25, 2019)

If you were in the UK at the beginning of next month and at the  London Model Engineering Exhibition you would be offered a Super7  lathe actually without ANY accessories whatsoever for a cool £3000. A gear box would add at least £400.
The lathe would be fully reconditioned as new but that is the plain unvarnished information from  the successors of what was  Myford Ltd in Nottingham . England.   None of this this who hah, guessing games and old wive's tales. £3 grand minimum - take it or leave it- end of story- and not mine!

Regards

Norman


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## packrat (Dec 25, 2019)

I hope the seller is not looking at this page about how much the Myford lathes are going for in the UK..I found out its a ML7 and made in 1952..
No gear box.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 25, 2019)

packrat said:


> I hope the seller is not looking at this page about how much the Myford lathes are going for in the UK..I found out its a ML7 and made in 1952..
> No gear box.



!952--- £25 complete  with faceplate, centres and a 3 jaw  SC Chuck. 
I couldn't even afford one on hire purchase. In 1950 I recall leaving the RAF and getting 9 shillings a day, gross and that was top pay compared to my clerks who were on  5 shillings and my top lad had 6.  There were only two of us conscripts  on what is now known as the RAF Museum at Hendon who were paid so much.

From my 3 guineas( £3 3 shillings), I paid income tax  and the new National Health Insurance.
I hate to tell you how much I spent today for part of the Christmas lunch but I spent 3 times  my NCO's weekly wage going to my son's house  only 2 miles away in a taxi.


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## skyline1 (Dec 26, 2019)

I quite agree Norm, when this new outfit took over Myford there was much ado about keeping it as a going concern, still manufacturing lathes, even new models.

But the truth was they were simply asset strippers, they bought Myford to gain the name but no new lathes were produced as far as I'm aware just the remains of Myford's stock of new machines sold off and a few machines "Reconditioned"  whatever that means (probably put together from spares)

Spares and accessory prices went through the roof, inluding things like  feedscrew nuts which  were designed to be a cheap throwaway replaceable item (they are only made of diecast MAZAK or similar)

A good strategy in my mind, when they wear out (which they do, sometimes quite quickly) you just replace them cheaply and easily.

But not any more at these exorbitant prices (if you can get them at all)

I have an elderly ML7 (1956 IIRC) which has done sterling service for myself and I suspect several previous owners, it's a fine machine. 

I am seriously considering changing it for something else however as like a classic car maintaining it has become prohibitive due to price and scarcity of spares.

I have several makes under consideration  including some Chinese ones.

Say what you like about Chinese machines, but you do get a lot of lathe for your money, Some of the higher end ones are very good indeed and for the £3000 price tag of a "reconditioned" Myford
I could get a very well equipped and accurate Chinese one.

Best Regards Mark


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## goldstar31 (Dec 26, 2019)

skyline1 said:


> I am seriously considering changing it for something else however as like a classic car maintaining it has become prohibitive due to price and scarcity of spares.
> 
> I have several makes under consideration  including some Chinese ones.
> 
> ...



Humm well?????

Talking about Classic cars?   Well, yesterday in the midst of the Christmas hullabaloo, my son produced a set of wishbones which were galvanised and then double powder coated for a Lotus Elise Special Edition which he is 'doing up'  He had to move the Mercedes 230 SLK out and back to my garage. This lovely old girl is still immaculate and heading for vintage status.  it was my late wife's from new.  One of the fa,ily cherished plates is on it.  An original Northumberland X or a Durham UP. I forget she's on a battery charger and is tucked under a cover! He wants a 'Deux Chevaux' a French cuddie hander to keep in his barn in the Dordogne.

Well you did say!!!

Lathes? I picked up a SiegC4 2007 for £350 which can't be bad and stuck a vertical mill drill( new) on the thing.
I bought Myford Super7B years ago for £600. It had been run on mahogany dust- well that was in the gear box.
Had it slideways ground for £250 with the Turcited rebuild of saddle thrown in. The rest of the restoration- was little me.  Again, I picked up a ML10 with a load of goodies for £600. Not cheap but it had steadies and a Cleeve swing tool holder and --- things.

Now I've got all broody for a multi purpose lathe as the source of the Murad Bormilathe has dried up.  An old desire as I was sort of attached to- or it was attached to me- the RAF Antarctic Flight.
Well, I got the bits for my Quorn complete for £100 and then went to get a better motor and found a fabricated Stent fastened to it. It changed hands for £100. Not bad. I got another silly urge and came back home with Clarkson for £100 and got a electro-magnetic chuck as a parting gift.

But having said all that, it is not where real bargains are to had.  I'd been talked out of a Spanish villa for £450 which was the price of a basic Mini( well £497) and my wife was talked out of a cottage for £148 and a bhutt and bein in the Cairngorms for half of it completely free from the Government and the other half at a very low rate of interest.  I wouldn't dream of telling you how much I finally made on the Spanish place and- oh yes- I went back and bought another place in Spain for the price of a new Volvo Estate car-- and I did buy a Scottish place against so called good advice.

I don't have them anymore but my four little grand kids university fees are paid-- when I'll be dead and gone.

So who cares about whether my lathes go on the scrap heap when my day comes? What is raised will only go in Inheritance Tax and solicitors fees.

You've got to look beyond the next day

Regards

Norman


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## packrat (Dec 26, 2019)

I was able to get the Myford,  now I need to bring it inside and start to clean it up, looks like it has not been used for a few years
and is very dirty. It looks like it is in good shape for 1951 lathe, more later. packrat


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## goldstar31 (Dec 26, 2019)

What splendid news! 

 I look forward to read  what you are doing with it.

The oil for the spindle is SAE 32 grade hydraulic  oil- nothing else.

Norman


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## skyline1 (Dec 27, 2019)

packrat . Yes mine was in a similar state when I got it. There are plenty of nooks and crannies for the gunge to accumulate on a Myford. The well where the backgears and spindle are was completely full on mine. I suggest you strip it down completely to the bed so you can asses what bits are worn and clean it up at the same time.

It's actually a lot easier than you think but you do need plenty of space and some plastic containers for all the many bits.

goldstar31. Interesting bit of info Norman I use 20/40 engine oil on mine seems to work fine but perhaps I should change.

Best Regards Mark


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## goldstar31 (Dec 27, 2019)

skyline1 said:


> goldstar31. Interesting bit of info Norman I use 20/40 engine oil on mine seems to work fine but perhaps I should change.
> 
> Best Regards Mark



Thanks Mark!

The 'story' is thus:-
That normal oils damage the lead indium bearings.
That came from the original Myford Manufacturers in Nottingham.

Continuing the 'story', Myford specified Nuto 32 oil. Now this from Myford was EXPENSIVE.
So being a bt of a skinflint, I went in to my normal oil wholesale supplier and asked politely.
They thumbed their merry way through heaps of information and said, what you want is the ordinary hydraulic oil used by the millions of buckets on car jacks and most anything  that isn't a motor car.

There you have it- or not?

I use it

Norman


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## skyline1 (Dec 27, 2019)

Thanks Norman handy to know, 32 grade hydraulic oil it is from now on

As you say there is plenty of it about. 

We had 3000 Gallons of the stuff where I used to work in a big hydraulic press, until an expansion joint failed and it dumped the whole lot on the factory floor in about 30 seconds flat

But I digress I might start a thread on it it's quite a tale ( a very messy one too)

Best Regards Mark


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## SmithDoor (Dec 27, 2019)

I have South Bend lathe 9N. A well tool South Bend 9N on can go over $3,000 in good shape.
1) I look tooling that come with lathe. This is most cost.
2) The Myford has gap there very few South Bend with a gap. 
3) look at Ware on bed way (this hard part for most to do if you need to scrap the bed ways . Scaping is not hard to do just sound hard) 
4) spindle can be chrome and ground were do crank shafts.

Dave





packrat said:


> There is a Myford lathe for sale close where I live it a 7"x 22" with tooling, but he is asking about $1300.00 for it
> are Myfords worth that much.? I am in the Western USA..


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## goldstar31 (Dec 27, 2019)

SmithDoor said:


> 3) look at Ware on bed way (this hard part for most to do if you need to scrap the bed ways . Sc(r)aping is not hard to do just sound hard)
> 
> 
> Dave



But to do this on a 1951 Myford Ml7, one has to understand that  it is built on the 'Narrow Guide Principle' as my old sight glass Super 7B is.
But it CAN be changed.- as mine is

I might just walk away


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## accelo (Dec 27, 2019)

Anytime one acquires, a new to them, lathe I recommend pulling the carriage.
I personally would do this task before purchase.
Will give you an idea of the wear and on the Myford you can clean and lube the ways.
I still haven't figured out why there are no oil ports on the cross slide.
One can only slap some oil on the ways and hope for the best.  Same for the carriage. 
One of the few things I dislike about my Myford.
The other is there is only 5/8" between the tool post base and the lathe center-line.
Only smallish tooling can be used in a quick change holder.
In time one learns to work around the limitations because of the many things I like about the Myford.
Like being married.  
Rick


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## goldstar31 (Dec 27, 2019)

accelo said:


> I still haven't figured out why there are no oil ports on the cross slide.
> One can only slap some oil on the ways and hope for the best.  Same for the carriage.
> 
> Rick



I would get one that has


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## packrat (Dec 27, 2019)

quote by goldstar31" What splendid news!"  Thanks for the encouragement, nobody ever says that over here..

Buy the way where is the serial # on the thing.? so I can date it.
What threads did Myford use on the ML7 is it all british Standard Fine Threads {BSF} ?
Her is a photo of lathe right after I got it home in the truck..


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## SmithDoor (Dec 27, 2019)

If remember the Myford has flat bed ways. Simple some one with surface grinder. The South Bend is V-ways hard to some grind the ways and they cost more.

Dave



goldstar31 said:


> But to do this on a 1951 Myford Ml7, one has to understand that  it is built on the 'Narrow Guide Principle' as my old sight glass Super 7B is.
> But it CAN be changed.- as mine is
> 
> I might just walk away


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## goldstar31 (Dec 27, 2019)

packrat said:


> quote by goldstar31" What splendid news!"  Thanks for the encouragement, nobody ever says that over here..
> 
> Buy the way where is the serial # on the thing.? so I can date it.
> What threads did Myford use on the ML7 is it all british Standard Fine Threads {BSF} ?
> Her is a photo of lathe right after I got it home in the truck..



Actually § You will find BA( British Association), BSF and BSW and the nose is a 'bastard' 55 degree Whitworth form.

My suggestion is that you get( from the Internet) the ML7 Myford handbook.  which has all parts listed.
 Beware if you lift some parts there are laminated shims.

As for  gratuitous comments, I've both rebuilt ML7's and Blancharded them and swopped them from the narrow guide to the wide bed which was what  Myford was using before it went into liquidation.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 27, 2019)

Further thoughts.

What other 'goodies' came with it?

From my poor sight , you have the long saddle which if you follow George Thomas, you can have a rear inverted parting tool which will revolutionise parting off. 
Again, you can make better dials if you follow Thomas. The  Chinese  metal ones on the ML7 can really be bettered. I have  even adjustable ones on the lowly ML10.

And  the '10' is quite different to ALL the other Myfords. 
and I have a Sieg and  a rather unusual MJ-189 which is a Unimatt 4 clone.


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## skyline1 (Dec 27, 2019)

Serial no is on the rear bed shear at the tailstock end


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## bluejets (Dec 27, 2019)

skyline1 said:


> I have several makes under consideration  including some Chinese ones.
> 
> Say what you like about Chinese machines, but you do get a lot of lathe for your money, Some of the higher end ones are very good indeed and for the £3000 price tag of a "reconditioned" Myford
> I could get a very well equipped and accurate Chinese one.
> ...



In our experience, lathes which come from Taiwan appear to be better finish even though they may look the same as those from China.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 28, 2019)

Taiwan and HongKong both are part of the Republic of China. The Chinese will make damned sure that people are aware of the facts.

As for finish of lathes are you referring to paintwork or actual quality of engineering.

A set of countries all separated by a common language?

Norman


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## terryd (Dec 28, 2019)

goldstar31 said:


> Taiwan and HongKong both are part of the Republic of China. The Chinese will make damned sure that people are aware of the facts.
> 
> As for finish of lathes are you referring to paintwork or actual quality of engineering.
> 
> ...



Hi Norman,

I think that you will find that Taiwan is indeed the Republic of China (ROC) and is a multiparty democracy with free elections every 4 years or so while mainland China is the Peoples Republic of China (PRC) and is a one party (the Communist party) Socialist state.
Mainland China claims that the ROC (Taiwan) is part of the PRC  but it is not at the moment and is unlikely to be, at least in my lifetime.  They have different flags as well. 

See here:  https://www.taiwan.gov.tw/politics.php

Terry


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## packrat (Dec 28, 2019)

Quote by goldstar31
"Whatother 'goodies' came with it?"
Quote by skiline1"Serial no is on the rear bed shear at the tailstock end"

Got most of the tooling with it chucks, face plates, tool holders.. tailstock, milling attachment..but missing some small bolts and nuts
For one the nut for the tool holder that has the foot  type jack screw to hold tite.? I thing it needs a special washer and nut. {see photos}
serial # is K25271 ..I did get it out of the truck today so I can clean it up a bit, but the temperature  is in teens F here..packrat


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## fcheslop (Dec 28, 2019)

Youre also missing the spring. It fits around the mounting bolt and just holds the clamp up I think Iv still got one hiding somewhere if you need the dimensions. I have never needed to use that clamp for the last 40 years but still use the original 4 way tool post. I have a genuine Myford quick change post but just dont like it 
A nice first job making the nut Its just a simple rad


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## packrat (Dec 28, 2019)

Quote"Your also missing the spring. It fits around the mounting bolt and just holds the clamp up I think Iv still got one hiding somewhere if you need the dimensions.}
Thanks I would like the dimensions also the washer size if you know that...


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## RonW (Dec 28, 2019)

Hi pacrat, Being an owner of a circa 1949 version of the ML 7 I would suggest that yours is of similar vintage judging from the photos. 
The serial number can be found on the rear bed shear at the tail stock end and reference to the vintage can be obtained from http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford/ website.  
I've enjoyed mine and done some learning on it. Someday I hope to get back to "Minnie" which I starter a lifetime ago using a Unimat 1. 
RDG tools has been a source for new bits and Myford UK can sometimes supply bits as needed. Most threads are either BSF or BA and RDG can supply taps for both. Spare bolts etc I get from a UK supplier  https://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/ . Their service is quick and reasonable. Small quantities come to Canada via regular post. 
Not sure where you are but hope this helps. If in UK Christopher Dooley at 12 Linton Trading Estate, Bromyard, 
HR7 4QT, UK.  [email protected] has a warehouse of Myfords in various stages of dismantlement that he sells for parts. Good luck.
Ron W


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## bluejets (Dec 28, 2019)

goldstar31 said:


> As for finish of lathes are you referring to paintwork or actual quality of engineering.



Yes well, it's a lathe so I was referring to the machine mechanical fits and tolerances.
Regardless of your opinion of the status of the countries involved, there is a definite difference.
Different thing if it was say a "51 Ford Mercury.


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## Charles Lamont (Dec 28, 2019)

For the tool clamp you do need a spherical washer, which you can make for yourself when you get the machine working! Instead of a nut, I suggest you borrow the handle off the 4-tool turret, so you don't need to use a spanner (oh sorry, wrench).


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## fcheslop (Dec 28, 2019)

No problem, I will try and find it tomorrow
The few nuts and bolts needed can always be made on the machine once you have it installed
Tracy Tools in the UK supply mid ranged taps and dies .I have never had a problem with the company or any of the kit they sell over a lot of years


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## terryd (Dec 29, 2019)

fcheslop said:


> No problem, I will try and find it tomorrow
> The few nuts and bolts needed can always be made on the machine once you have it installed
> Tracy Tools in the UK supply mid ranged taps and dies .I have never had a problem with the company or any of the kit they sell over a lot of years



Hi,

I have used Tracy Tools quite a lot and find the service and prices very good and fair.  However Whitworth threaded parts (BSW and BSF) are available from several eBay.co.uk  vendors as are BA fasteners.

By the way I have seen a difference in nomenclature between the US and the UK in terms of bolts etc. I don't know if Canada is the same.  The headless screw known as a 'se't screw in the US is traditionally known as a 'grub' screw in the UK - I suppose because it looks a bit like a worm or grub.  A set screw in the UK is one with a 'head' of some kind (pan, 'cheese', round, Hex etc) and with full threads which continue up to the head while a 'bolt' has an unthreaded part of the shank below the head which is of full diameter and gives a better precision in a correctly sized clearance hole - of course for high precision, special accurately ground bolts or dowels are used depending on the application.  Mind you even UK sellers use these descriptions rather freely these days.  When I was an apprentice (too many years ago) if I used the wrong term in describing these it would, and sometimes did, result in a clip round the ear.

Hope that will help to avoid any slight confusion - "two countries divided by a common language".

Regards and seasons greetings,

TerryD


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## accelo (Dec 29, 2019)

I too was missing the spherical washer.  I ordered some parts from Myford and had thoughts of including the spherical washer in the order. 
If they stock it I couldn't find it in the web sight.  I ended up building one.  The radius is 1/2".


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## fcheslop (Dec 29, 2019)

The spring is 0.625 OD 0.750 long the wire its made from is 0.90 dia and it has 7 turns
The radius ed washer is 0.9 dia the through hole is 0.563 and its 0.375 long I measure the rad at 0.437
Should you want the hex nut is 0.706 across the flats 0.75 long and threaded 7/16 BSF not that you need it
Although I have the Myford made quick change tool post my preference is for the old 4 way or the 3 way by Guy Loatard the spelling will be wrong  I also made a boring tool post that takes boring tools from 1/2 dia down to 2mm using Geo Thomas idea but they fit into a dedicated block with split cotters to hold them it seems to give a better finish due maybe to the solid mass rather than the tool just been clamped into a standard post
Geo Thomas rear tool post is well worth the effort it takes to make I have two heads one takes parting tools the other standard 1/4 bits ground to what is needed at the time
I also bought the Hemmings swarf guard used when grinding it has an extra felt wiper and really does stop the muck getting under the saddle. I does not take much machining a nice simple worthwhile fitting
Ref HK1580 not saying buy it as its easily made from stock
Good luck and happy swarf making


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## packrat (Dec 29, 2019)

Thanks fcheslop for the dimensions 
I was going to ask what size that tool post stud and nut were..
Thanks accelo for photos of the tool holder now I know what the missing parts look like.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 30, 2019)

terryd said:


> Hi Norman,
> 
> I think that you will find that Taiwan is indeed the Republic of China (ROC) and is a multiparty democracy with free elections every 4 years or so while mainland China is the Peoples Republic of China (PRC) and is a one party (the Communist party) Socialist state.
> Mainland China claims that the ROC (Taiwan) is part of the PRC  but it is not at the moment and is unlikely to be, at least in my lifetime.  They have different flags as well.
> ...



I'm not bothered with silly flags and whatever paper work. I'm well used to HK but  if you read deeply into things, HK is in turmoil despite all the so called assurances.

Both HK and Taiwan will not last the day if ROC  decrees.

I was discussing this and todays problems with the HK and mainland Chinese etc etc.
China puts up with things because it suits China!

We- or you got a damned hard thrashing several times in my long history

There we have it-- Money, money , money with ROC firing the shots- when IT chooses


Norman


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## packrat (Dec 31, 2019)

I see that Myford Ltd. has a few parts for the ML7, I could us some parts that I can't make like a gear or two
What do you posters in the UK think,? Oh is one US dollar worth 1,33 pounds.? I am in the USA

 Myford Ltd
Unit 7/8
White Lee / Burnley Road
Mytholmroyd
West Yorkshire
HX7 5AD


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## Cogsy (Jan 1, 2020)

packrat said:


> I see that Myford Ltd. has a few parts for the ML7, I could us some parts that I can't make like a gear or two
> What do you posters in the UK think,? Oh is one US dollar worth 1,33 pounds.? I am in the USA
> 
> Myford Ltd
> ...



According to the exchange rate I just looked up, 1 US dollar = 0.754224 pounds. So a 10 GBP item will cost you $13.26 USD.


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## goldstar31 (Jan 1, 2020)

Happy New Year and hopefully a Happier New Decade!
As a poster in the UK and having been within a stone's throw of RDG or Myford Ltd, might i clear a bit of my whisky haze of Hogmanay  and say a certain 'Don't Know'
Britain in less than a month is leaving the Common Market- and where things will be are guesswork.
Last night I whooped it up with quite a number of 'financial people' and simply forgot for the time what might happen with Brexit.
 I suppose for a handful of buts, the present figures of 3 Quarters will do- in't foggy Yorkshire but that isn't the final answer in the US when carriage etc has been added, the price reduced by Very Awful Tax and added for US Customs duty and whatever.
 Me if I was kitting out a Myford? I would do 2 things!   I would buy the 2 Geo Thomas books and thus have numerous sets of drawings expressly for both Myfords and in Imperial dimensions and , if  I needed a few more missing 'cogs'  would simply buy them locally bearing in mind that there is nowt magic in 20 Diametrical pitch!
That is what Myford uses/used and if you want a metric converter and insist on 127 tpi, that cog will not fit.
63 will fit though not exact whereas Myford DID sell 21 20DP's for that.
No, they don't tell you- or didn't.

Me, here??? I suppose that history does repeat itself and Britain or what is left of it- we want separation- will be eager for good old Yankee Dollars and offer a better exchange rate.

Clearer now?

Norm


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## skyline1 (Jan 1, 2020)

Regardless of the Tax and import duty situation and whether you pay in dollars or pounds Myford bits are going to be scary expensive have a look at https://www.myford.co.uk and see for yourself

Best Regards Mark


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## goldstar31 (Jan 1, 2020)

skyline1 said:


> Regardless of the Tax and import duty situation and whether you pay in dollars or pounds Myford bits are going to be scary expensive have a look at https://www.myford.co.uk and see for yourself
> 
> Best Regards Mark




Which is why I penned such an answer!

If one moves to Hemingwaykits for  other accessories/kits, you will get the same answer.

Norman


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## Charles Lamont (Jan 1, 2020)

I agree with Norm's advice to buy the George Thomas books. Start with 'The Model Engineers Workshop Manual'.


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## fcheslop (Jan 1, 2020)

The Model Engineers Workshop has to be one of the best for kitting out a Myford  and making the tooling as you go can be a great learning experience. I know the book is not cheap but it is full of gems
Harold Halls web site also has some nice bits of kit for the Myford and I find his headstock backstop indispensable 
http://www.homews.co.uk/page463.html

If the lathe is in usable condition then it should be possible to make most spares needed with a bit of ingenuity 
Good luck with it


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## bluejets (Jan 2, 2020)

Before and after of which first appeared a hopeless heap.


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## awake (Jan 2, 2020)

That before picture does not look hopeless to me - mostly just dirty. Hopeless is one that has sat out in the rain for the past 10 years, and is a solid block of rust!


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## DanP (Jan 2, 2020)

The prices on the Myford site will include the VAT.  If you have the product shipped out of Britain you don't have to pay it.  I haven't bought anything from Britain for some time but it was around 20%.  Always when ordering ask in it's VAT in.  For those of you who don't know, VAT means Value Added Tax.


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## bluejets (Jan 2, 2020)

awake said:


> That before picture does not look hopeless to me - mostly just dirty. Hopeless is one that has sat out in the rain for the past 10 years, and is a solid block of rust!



I guess some just know everything then.


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## Wizard69 (Jan 3, 2020)

packrat said:


> There is a Myford lathe for sale close where I live it a 7"x 22" with tooling, but he is asking about $1300.00 for it
> are Myfords worth that much.? I am in the Western USA..


You have lots of responses here but it comes down to the condition of the machine.  I’d rather take a machine in good condition and ignore whom made it.   Unless of course you want a rebuild challenge.  

the interesting thing with lathes used by model engineers is that age isn’t a big concern.   What is important is wear and abuse.    A clapped out lathe is no joy to work with.   You really will not know the condition until you physically inspect the machine.   It might be worth the asking price or it might be junk!   

the other thing to look out for is that the asking price can buy you a variety of new Chinese and maybe even machines from Taiwan.     At the extreme low end you are still getting kit machines.   At $1300 you start to find better quality so you need to weigh new against used.  

Beyond all of that don’t dismiss personal preference.  feel can be important, consider this example.   I purchased a generic 9x20 years ago, it might not be the best lathe out there but the price was right at the time.    One thing that really bothered me about the lathe was height of the saddles year bid above the chip pan.   It was just too crowded for my big hands.  So I made 1-1/4 thick risers to add to the risers supplied with the lathe.  This added clearance has worked out well.    Other things I’ve learned include the fact that I hate screw on chucks!!!!   No easy fix for that issue.   Also the compound on this lathe is a joke.  

The point I’m trying to make here is that you will not “know” until you use the lathe if it fits your intended usage.   That and there is a bit of required adaptation with any new machine.


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## goldstar31 (Jan 3, 2020)

[QUOTE="Wizard69, post: 332381, member: 14419"
 So I made 1-1/4 thick risers to add to the risers supplied with the lathe.  This added clearance has worked out well.    Other things I’ve learned include the fact that I hate screw on chucks!!!!   No easy fix for that issue.   Also the compound on this lathe is a joke. 

.[/QUOTE]

As we seem to have moved on from 'rusty boat anchors' to 920 lathes,  I always could afford proper anchors for my ventures into the briny and the 'not so briny' The tidal River Tyne has both and a note that it was once the biggest open sewer in the World. Ah??? So the 920 or 918. I had one with with a Myford 'nose'. Myford at the time- that is the original firm would not supply me with a new saddle for my- I think that it was a Super7B.
I've been through a LOT of Myfords! So I moved ALL my Myford accessories onto the '9180'.  Yes there was one!
As for the saddle on the 9180, I moved quite sensibly to putting a sub table on as the tee slot are 't'other way around' I still adopt the same idea on my Sieg C4!

As for 'rising blocks',this is quite normal. Myford still sells them but I'm quite tall being once over 6 feet.

I have a pair of steel riser  blocks on the Myford Super7B but a pair of wooden ones on the ML10.

Which all brings me to another point which the pontificators who never owned a Myford ML7 or Super 7 will never have discovered. 

The Myford 7 series suffer from imbalance! Uncorrected, they are prone to tipping away from the operator unless bolted down. You might get away with a 1/4 HP motor but a 1/2 or a 2/3rds HP affair are rather rickety!

More to learn and think about?

Norman


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## awake (Jan 3, 2020)

awake said:


> That before picture does not look hopeless to me - mostly just dirty. Hopeless is one that has sat out in the rain for the past 10 years, and is a solid block of rust!





bluejets said:


> I guess some just know everything then.



Bluejets, please accept my apology. I was making an off-the-cuff remark, not intending to be offensive in any way - my mouth was engaged before my brain (or rather my fingers were, in this case).

I realized after I saw your response that my remark probably came across as a dismissing or diminishing of the restoration you did. I did not intend that in any way, and again, I am profoundly sorry. Your restoration is clearly excellent, far more meticulous and beautiful than anything I have done - I have done my share of restoring machine tools to working condition, but I have never come close to the aesthetic excellence you have achieved. As I should have said instead of my flippant response: well done.

One more time: I am very sorry for offending.


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## packrat (Jan 3, 2020)

Quote by Wizard69 " At $1300 you start to find better quality so you need to weigh new against used"

I did pick-up the lathe, seller was willing to drop his price substantially and gave me a lot of tooling.{needed cash & did not need lathe}
After seeing the posts here about the price of the used Myford ML7 lathes specially in the UK, I think I did O.K. on price.
I had never seen one in the USA for sale {Myford} and after seeing the quality of this British small lathe, I am
glad I went to see the lathe and make a offer..{over here in the USA small lathes go for more money then bigger
ones} due the weight of a larger lathe to moving  and the three phase power needed..
packrat


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## accelo (Jan 3, 2020)

You will never regret the purchase.  
Myfords are a great small lathe with lots of feathers you will love.
The only thing, I really don't like, is the chuck thread.  It is a 55 deg Whitworth thread.
Backing plates can be purchased from Myford at a reasonable cost. 
I have cut them on the lathe but I found it much easier to purchase spares. 
Pull the cross slide off and clean and lube it as this is a maintenance item that isn't typically completed as often as it should.
Only takes 15 minutes. 
Congratulations.
Rick


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## packrat (Feb 18, 2020)

Just a up date on the ML 7 Myford lathe I found here in the USA, I have taken it all apart and cleaned it good with kroil oil, it was a dirty mess. I think the previous 
owen was not a lathe person, I say that because of how dirty it was and there are pipe wrench marks on some of the parts and two arc strikes on the lathe.? Both the drip oilers were broken and will not hold oil, Oh the oil zerks are{were}all full of grease the apron also, the counter shaft and belt drive assembly all full of grease...
One of the good things is that it has a nice quality US made 1/2 HP motor {Baldor} on the lathe that looks fairly new and lots of tooling....Oh and the back gear has broken teeth..??


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## goldstar31 (Feb 18, 2020)

Packrat, whilst you initially will have a far amount of remedial work on your ML7, most of the parts are available from RDG Tools albeit at quite an outlay but you will have a nice lathe if and when you change the awful grease to  to ISO 32 Hydraulic oil. Again, the bed etc would take a change  if yu use this gooey ISO 68 stuff.

I once had to overhaul a friend's ML7 which on checking was so worn that it would turn banananas. I wrote it up in the Model Engineer Post bag. I  had the bed Blancharded and did a little grinding on a surface grinder and did the following to removed the problem of the worn key underneath the saddle.
What is not immediately apparent is that the old ML7's original works on the narrow guide principle where the number 4 shear is untouched but can be adopted with packing the rear shear part of the saddle which surprisingly is rarely worn. You can see it shows the fine milling for when  it left the factory.
After a week's work in the evenings, I had the lathe able to turn within half a thous over 6 inches.

I think that the cost was only £25.  I hope that this insight- which is not in the book is of assistance to you.

Cheers

Norman


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## packrat (Feb 18, 2020)

Thanks goldstar31 ..This old Myford does has some good things going for it like a nice lead screw, bed is not worn or damaged cross slide and saddle are good and tail stock is good to go. The one thing that is bugging me the most is the back gear with missing teeth.??
packrat


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## DanP (Feb 18, 2020)

Packrat, you should be able to get a back gear.  That may bug you, I have a Super 7 and what bugs me is the "small" hole through the head stock. :>)


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## skyline1 (Feb 19, 2020)

Packrat Stripped teeth on the back gear is quite a common problem on ML7s 

Mine had it when I got it.

I repaired it by a rather unorthodox and primitive method but it worked well. I had a blacksmith friend Cast Iron weld the teeth back as best he could then very carefully shaped them with small files until they matched the other teeth 

I was not expecting it to work at all but it did and has been going strong for years. There is a very slight "clunk" as the new teeth pass the other wheel but nothing I can't put up with and these gears rattle a little anyway during normal use even on fairly new machines.

Best Regards Mark


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## DanP (Feb 19, 2020)

Try this site.  https://www.myford.co.uk/


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## goldstar31 (Feb 19, 2020)

Perhaps there is another answer and that is to buy a second hand 65 tooth 20DP(?) bull wheel from one of the numerous people who scrap Myfords.

RDG Tools who owns the Myford name sells new at about £58 pus carriage.  Again it must be choice.
 For myself, I'm hoping to exchange my old but quite good Super 7B for an old new newer machine with a power of cross feed. More anon


Norman


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## awake (Feb 19, 2020)

skyline1 said:


> Packrat Stripped teeth on the back gear is quite a common problem on ML7s
> 
> Mine had it when I got it.
> 
> ...



Not unorthodox at all - thousands of gears have been repaired by building up with weld or brazing, or machining an insert that gets locked in mechanically (dovetail) and with braze or silver solder, then cutting the teeth - either with a file or a machining operation.


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## packrat (Feb 19, 2020)

DanP said:


> Packrat, you should be able to get a back gear.  That may bug you, I have a Super 7 and what bugs me is the "small" hole through the head stock. :>)



Thanks, I am working on fixing or replacing back gear...yes small hole in ML7 in head stock is not good. I am thankful my South Bend 13 inch lathe has the large spindle hole.

skyline1 & awake good information about the repair of teeth, I do not have the teeth that are broke but I am able to build up the gear with silver solder or braze..


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## awake (Feb 19, 2020)

packrat said:


> skyline1 & awake good information about the repair of teeth, I do not have the teeth that are broke but I am able to build up the gear with silver solder or braze..



Right, I don't think I've ever seen anyone attempt to braze or solder the broken teeth back into place; I've only ever sees a built up or insert repair done. I suspect the broken teeth are generally fractured into lots of little bitty pieces ...


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## packrat (Feb 19, 2020)

Quote by norm"Perhaps there is another answer and that is to buy a second hand 65 tooth 20DP(?) bull wheel from one of the numerous people who scrap Myfords."

If anyone knows of used ML7 parts {gears} let me know....


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## goldstar31 (Feb 19, 2020)

The conversation about the ML7 and the Super 7 should be taken with caution as the ML7 has 65 teeth whereas the Super 7 has 60. They are not the same.

As Braze is Brass, you can machine it or even file it if push comes to shove.

Try [email protected] he also has website


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## RonW (Feb 20, 2020)

[email protected] is a gentleman I have dealt with for years for Myford parts. I've been to his emporium and he has hundreds of stripped Myford parts. He ships all over the world. Give him a try. 
While you have the headstock stripped check if the pulley assembly is lubricatable or not. Mine wasn't and was nearly siezed when I got it. There is a direct replacement from later machines that has a lubricator nipple in the bed of the center pulley. Ron W


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## ALEX1952 (Feb 20, 2020)

In the past for my lathe, an old Wilson was to find a gear of the correct form etc turn down the O/D of the old one, bore the new one to suit and weld together.


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## PSACstuff (Feb 21, 2020)

Good day folks,
I recently purchased a classic ML7 made in 1953.  This is my first lathe.  It has the original spindle  and Lead indium bearings.  It appears tights and the wear is not significant.  The back 65T gear behind the spindle head as one tooth partly broken.  This is likely because a prior owner locked the back gear while removing the chuck.  I got a new replacement.  Wondering if the removal of the gear can be easily achieved without dismantling the the cast pillow block housing that hold the bearings.  Or is it better to dismantle everything.
I have seen a video on you tube where someone take a plastic mallet and removed the spindle by gently hitting  from the very back of the spindle.

I would like to know what are some concerns that need to be addressed before undertaking the task.

Regards
Terry


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## ALEX1952 (Feb 21, 2020)

It should have read:-
In the past I needed to replace a spur gear with a broken tooth on my lathe, my old but very sevicable slant bed Wilson. The solution was to find a gear of the correct form turn down the O/D of the old one, bore the new one to suit and weld together. Its still going strong.


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## packrat (Feb 21, 2020)

PSACstuff said:


> Good day folks,
> I recently purchased a classic ML7 made in 1953.  This is my first lathe.  It has the original spindle  and Lead indium bearings.  It appears tights and the wear is not significant.  The back 65T gear behind the spindle head as one tooth partly broken.  This is likely because a prior owner locked the back gear while removing the chuck.  I got a new replacement.  Wondering if the removal of the gear can be easily achieved without dismantling the the cast pillow block housing that hold the bearings.  Or is it better to dismantle everything.
> I have seen a video on you tube where someone take a plastic mallet and removed the spindle by gently hitting  from the very back of the spindle.
> 
> ...



Hi  Terry Looks like me and you are in the same boat with the broken back dear on the ML7 Myford lathe, I would like to see that youtube video about removing the back gear..The ones I have found are not clear about pressing off the gear..packrat


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## DanP (Feb 21, 2020)

Did I miss something?  Are you guys saying you or the lathes previous owner broke these gear teeth off by using the back gear to lock the spindle so the chuck can be removed?


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## packrat (Feb 21, 2020)

In my case it was the previous heavy handed non lathe person that broke the back gear {my Myford 7 is some what  aparts right now and I have not run it yet}..
I say heavy handed because there are other marks on the lathe like arc strikes {2} and spanner teeth marks plus lots of grease..??? both drip feed oilers are broke 
and not usable..


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## RonW (Feb 21, 2020)

Hi Packrat, You will have to totally dismantle the shaft assembly to remove the bull gear. The damage you have looks to me like someone tried to engage the low speed gears while the lathe was running. The bull gear slides off the shaft backwards once you remove the grub screw(s) in the front of the gear boss.

As I mentioned in my previous post you might want to change that pulley cluster. I can't tell from your photo if yours is one that can be lubricated. When I got mine, serial number indicates it is 1949 vintage, the pulley assembly was almost seized on the shaft due to no lubrication getting to the pulley block bearing surfaces. I purchased a later version which has a Zerk fitting in the face  of the large pulley behind the small gear that allows it to be lubed with an  oil gun. I believe Christopher Dooley supplied the parts. I know they came off Ebay.
RonW


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## Hopper (Feb 22, 2020)

You can buy those gear clusters brand new from Myford in the UK. They have an eBay store too. Not worth messing about with a used gear that could be in similarly abused condition and about to let go. It's a common failure, due usually to locking the spindle and whaling on the chuck key with a hammer to free a stuck chuck.

You can drill and press in a pin to the side of the new gear which can be used then to lock the spindle with a block between the pin and the headstock housing.  Or follow Myfords instruction manual and turn the chuck backwards by the belts or motor until a jaw hits on a piece of wood stood on the bed.

Put a new belt on it too while you have the headstock spindle out to change the gear. A "cogged belt" works best. It's a regular V belt but with notches in the inner surface that lets it bend around those small pulleys better than a solid V belt. The old belts harden with age and may look ok but slip under load.


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## skyline1 (Feb 22, 2020)

Packrat

Whilst you have it dismantled check the little serrated dog that locks the bull gear assembly in high gear. If the bull gear teeth are stripped it's a good bet that this is damaged too

Best Regards Mark


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## goldstar31 (Feb 22, 2020)

I tend to agree with Hopper and would mention that both  manuals are available on the internet and again, both manuals  i.e. for the ML7 and the Super7 show a tapered wooden wedge being used against the respective bull wheels. The manual is there- why not use it?
Again, whilst the lathe is in bits, it is time to go through what was bought with a fine tooth comb and see what the condition of  of the feed screws and there respective nuts.  For my part in all of this, I cannot honestly imagine the 'Chinese metal' nuts not being worn- if not that the whole assemblies needing replacement.
Again, the oil cups need replacing and from my long experience of such things, should be replaced with NEW and unworn parts.

I'm sorry but I have received a succession of very worrying occurrences of death and worse in the past 24 hours.
One of my very close friends wrapped my knuckles about 'penny pinching' and that much forgotten Northumbrian  tune which includes the words about 'skinning a rat for its hide and fat'

Well, with luck today  I should have an almost new Myford Super7 with gear box and power cross feed.
My opinions whilst others may differ

Norman


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## PSACstuff (Feb 22, 2020)

Thank you for your input.  I will take the opportunity to put a fresh belt on the lathe
terry


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