# THE 33?



## 1hand (Jan 15, 2010)

Well here we are again past midnight. Being now it is officially past midnight is officially my first day of unemployment. So what better time to officially begin my first build. So today I'm going to start the "1handed Elmer's #33 Mill Engine in 3x scale. Going to start up scaling the plans and figuring a material list. A special thanks goes out to the designer Brian Rupnow for it is his plans I'll start this up scale build from.

Matt


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## Deanofid (Jan 15, 2010)

333. I get it! Of course, you had to spell it out for me. : )
That's great, Matt. (Not about the unemployment. I mean about the engine.)
Please keep us updated on your progress, and with pics, of course!

BTW, the engine designer was Elmer Verburg. 

Dean


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## black85vette (Jan 15, 2010)

The #33 is a nice engine. Wish I had built mine in a larger scale.  At the time I didn't know you were "allowed" to change the plans. ;D


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 15, 2010)

I change Elmer's plans every time I build one! :

He probably wouldn't recognize a few that I built. :big:

-MB


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 15, 2010)

I-Hand----I am glad that you will be using the plans I did up. If you plan on this being a "working engine" I would either use a steel or brass flywheel (8" dia. x 1 1/4" wide is big enough)--or---use an aluminum flywheel with 6 equally spaced 2" holes in it at 60 degrees apart. If it doesn't have enough mass, then turn 6  2" diameter brass or steel slugs and loctite them into the holes.---Brian. By the way---at 3 times scale, that thing will be HUGE.


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## Powder keg (Jan 15, 2010)

I'll be watching this. I like the bigger engines. I have been wanting to build a huge wobbler for some reason? ;D Remember how much everyone likes pictures ;D


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## 1hand (Jan 15, 2010)

Thanks Guys. Brian that is a great Idea with the brass Inserts. Not only functional but the bling factor will be out of this world. I also thought in the outer rim I could do like 1/2" holes close together and do the same thing. 8" solid brass flywheel would differently break the bank. Being I'll buy the Aluminium by the Inch, I should either go with 1'' or 2''. Can't afford a whole stick of 8" rod either........ But using 1" x 8" Aluminium with six 2" brass inserts in the center and how ever many 1/2" x 1" brass rod inserts in the outer rim I think would be enough..........or not?

Matt


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 15, 2010)

Here's a heavy cast iron one that you could use. Or you could make one out of steel plate if you want one heavier than aluminum.

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/product.php?productid=3800&cat=36&page=1

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 15, 2010)

Thanks MB; Will sure keep them in mind. Really think I like the Aluminium with Brass insert idea too. What you guys think.........................Yeah.........or..................ahhh No?


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 15, 2010)

Very nice looking and a very creative use of mixed metals, I like it! However, I don't mean to nit pick your idea, but honestly that's a whole lot of drilling! Might be the lazy in me that would try avoid all the extra work involved. Looks like more than half the aluminum in the disc will be scraped and replaced with expensive brass. It could be I'm influenced by the six miserable hours I just spent machining a bad piece of cast iron. :

Are you leaning towards a certain 'look' for the flywheel, or is making it heavy the only object?

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 15, 2010)

Leaning towards a nomination on my first build............lol 

The 33 has been done alot and just trying to put a different spin on it. Alot of waste I know, but there's that new RT and boring bar just sitting there whispering "come on, you can do it". I'm new with the 3D moldeling, so the center where the 6 bigger brass are will be inset aways. And a 45deg. chanfer between them. Couldn't seem to make the computer do that. Don't worry we had Words but, he still won and pic you see is what I got.

Matt


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 15, 2010)

Oh, O.K. When you said a 'working engine' to crush beer cans I thought that looks might not be any priority. If that were the case then a 10 lb weight from a barbell set would do after adding a bushing. Unless of course your crank shaft is gonna be 1-1/2" in diameter. A 10 pounder that I have is 1" thick by 8-3/4" diameter. Using one and leaving Joe Weider on it might just get you that nomination, or not. :big:

Sell some empty beer cans to a scrap yard and buy that classy looking, 'award winning,' cast iron Redwing flywheel. ;D


-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 16, 2010)

When I brought up your link on them cast flywheels, I didn't see a pic of them. Are they spokes or have holes? They price is right. I haven't put a pencil to it yet, but I'm sure I could buy 3 of them compared to what I've got in mind.

Hopefully I'll have this done by this time next year. I sure would like to go out a see the Cabin Fever. Maybe I'll pick ya up on the way by if I go. Looking at all the pics of the different things out there, it sure would be cool to see with my own eyes.

Matt


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 16, 2010)

Once you go over 4" to 6" on a flywheel casting the choices thin out quite a bit, and the prices go up. If you were to double the engine dimensions (332), that would give you a 1" bore with a 2' throw with a 6" flywheel. This is already a hefty size build. Also, take into consideration the size of your equipment (lathe, mill, rotab), and also the volume of air and pressure you'll need if you triple the size. If you need torque, that could be accomplished with pulleys sizes if you use a belt drive to power your project. You could also separate your projects, and power the can crusher with an electric motor (practical and acceptable) and build the engine project to a more manageable size (displayable and portable). This way you can start spreading and displaying your builds all around the house. ;D

LMS smaller flywheels; http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_category.php?category=1146097440

Source, with bigger flywheels; http://www.martinmodel.com/MMPflywheelslist.html

PM reasearch cast iron flywheel. Largest one available other than the Red Wing. FWC-4CI $32; http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/product.php?productid=3089&cat=4&page=1

Red Wing flywheel; http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/product.php?productid=3704&cat=346&page=1

I'm in for a road trip! Swing on by! I have to warn you though, I'm a repetitive/chronic talker, so bring plenty of Tylenol (or ear plugs). :big:

-MB


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## kvom (Jan 16, 2010)

For a rotating mass like a flywheel, more mass at the perimeter is what you want. A cheaper/easier solution might be to find a piece of 8" iron or steel pipe, cut off a 1-2 piece, and make the spokes/center from aluminum.


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## 1hand (Jan 16, 2010)

Yeah I need to change something. Put a pencil to the material list and ahh.........that's not gonna work. I did forget how expensive brass is. Maybe the 332 in steel is a better choice. What if I change it up a bit and lengthen the crank and use two smaller flywheels opposite from each other. I just remember how I don't enjoy machining steel as much. Thing is I have a endless supply of that at work. The scraps are free for the taking. Maybe do it in steel with a nice paint job?

Matt


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## Powder keg (Jan 16, 2010)

I like the way the cast flywheels look. A built up steel one would be nice to.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 16, 2010)

Why not make the flywheel out of 3/4" mild steel plate? If you are going for "fancy" you can cut spokes in it. If you are going for "functional", then just leave it solid and paint it.


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## 1hand (Jan 16, 2010)

Ok, We're going to scrap the can crusher Idea and go for a pretty. Sorry everyone for my case of ADD. I seem to think better out loud. I have a piece of 2x2 6061 here I can use for the cyl block. I have some 2" steel round for the heads that I could then paint prrrretty color. As for the fly wheel I have a piece of 8x8x1 of steel flat or I can get well casing pipe and have steel rod for spokes. Also the 12" of 2x2 I have would work for the sub base. I have 6061 I can use for the cross straps and guides. Also for the steam chest. Valve plate and cover could be made of steel and painted. Basically the only material I wouldn't have on had would be the brass bearings, piston, valve rod ends. These could be done in steel also, I think. Not sure about the piston. I think building the 332 would be a better decision for I have every thing here for that scale.

Input Gentlemen?

Matt


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 16, 2010)

1hand  said:
			
		

> Ok, Sorry everyone for my case of ADD. I seem to think better out loud. I think building the 332 would be a better decision for I have every thing here for that scale.
> Input Gentlemen?
> Matt



I think your on your way to a beautiful fun filled build! :bow:

When your face is up against a tree, you turn around and ask your friends, "where is the forest? And they say "Were standing in it!" I know its a little corny.

That's funny! I get through the decision making process better when I think out loud (post), and with a listening crowd that's willing to throw in their two cents.

Well Matt, its time to tie up any loose ends, and start a-hackin! :big:

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 16, 2010)

Yeah thanks. Sometimes I wear myself out.......... Going to finish up the 5C back plate today and get started hacking Even if is Wrong. If I can get this first build out of the way maybe I'll have a little more direction in my life........or not.....lol


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 16, 2010)

1hand  said:
			
		

> Yeah thanks. Sometimes I wear myself out.......... Going to finish up the 5C back plate today and get started hacking Even if is Wrong. If I can get this first build out of the way maybe I'll have a little more direction in my life........or not.....lol



Take your good old time with that back plate, and please do post any concerns, questions, and progress that you make.

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 16, 2010)

Well here we go, no turning back now.

















.0005 is the best I can do. Can't do any better than the spindle is. I guess I happy with that, being NASA hasn't called yet. Now I feel I should upgrade to that better 4 jaw. 4" or 6" or both? Man my lathe is a mess now. Going to spend the rest of the afternoon cleaning that up. Good ol cast!!

Matt


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 16, 2010)

Good deal! Man that was quick! Glad it turned out well for you. We all need to get an important one in the win box. That plate must be the good one from LMS, or you would be machining it till Monday. Did you like the way it machined?
Many of the China made '5C Collet Chuck' sellers give a spec at .001" run out. Unless you paid $450 to $500 you should be completely satisfied that you got a great chuck at a good price.

Looks like your ready to "Rock and Roll." :big:

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 16, 2010)

It machined alright I guess, never turned cast before, so??? could only take .010 per pass or the lathe would stall out "don't ask me how I know this". Kool mist really helped. But what a mess. Looks like I've been in the coal factory.

Matt


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## bearcar1 (Jan 16, 2010)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> .....When your face is up against a tree, you turn around and ask your friends, "where is the forest? And they say "Were standing in it!" I know its a little corny........
> 
> -MB



That's funny, most of my friends tell me to "stay there!" scratch.gif  Rof} Rof} Rof}


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## Deanofid (Jan 17, 2010)

It sounds like you did just fine on the chuck, Matt. You're within .0001 of what Bison advertises. Not too shabby at all! Collets are nice to work with, too. A nice added convenience for your shop!

Dean


(edited for spelling... to, too, two, tu-tu, etc.)


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## Powder keg (Jan 18, 2010)

Looks good so far Matt!!


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## 1hand (Jan 18, 2010)

What Loctite do I need for aluminium and brass? Is there a certain #?


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## Deanofid (Jan 18, 2010)

Matt, do you want to be able to get the parts apart without a big struggle, or to stay put forever?
There are different kinds, but as far as I know, they all work with steel, brass, aluminum. They are graded by strength, and how hard it is to get parts disconnected from each other.

Dean


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## 1hand (Jan 18, 2010)

Well we're changing directions yet again.... ??? After figuring material prices, I've decided to build the Elmer's Engines in their planned scale. If I'm going to build them all, my kids may go hungry if I up-scale, And where would I display such a vast collection of over size modeling marvels?..........LoL.. :

Well enough of that. Here's what I did so far. Cut the parts that I had material for.






MB; It's A Start........ woohoo1

Matt


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 18, 2010)

Here ya go 1Hand---just for you---Brian









View attachment FANCY EXHAUST STACK.PDF


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 18, 2010)

Matt, You may find some of the smaller parts a bit tedious. I do on most of the engines I built. Just take your time, make one part at a time, and it'll all come together. Shelf space can become a problem after a while, that's why I like the size of most of Elmer's Engines. If I up-size on some of Elmer's smaller engines, they still fit within a foot print size of 6" x 6". And that's about the size that I like.

I love the picture you posted. It looks just like my workbench at the start of a new build! 

Make sure you keep with the HMEM tradition, and post plenty of pictures! 8)

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 18, 2010)

Thanks Brian for the add-on Bling. I sure like the looks of that on your engine. Sure gives it that traditional steam look. Thm:

MB ; thanks for the addvice. Nice and easy...........gotch ya!

Working on a face plate .. drive plate so I can turn the CYL. like Brian did. Drive holes are to far out on the face plate to catch the CYL block so I'm putting a drive plate across. I'll post some pics when I get a bit more done, just sawed the plate now.

Thanks guys,

Matt


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## 1hand (Jan 18, 2010)

The hardware store doesn't carry the Loc-tite brand, but they had Permatex high strength RED. So hopefully this is good enough for the drive pins. I don't plan on doing the CyL block for awhile til I find my comfort zone doing some of the other easier parts, So if this Permatex isn't the stuff, let me know. I'll take it back. $9 for .20 fl oz.

                                               th_confused0052


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 18, 2010)

I'm not sure about Permatex---I have only heard of it in relation to gasket materials. Loctite can be generally found at industrial suppliers or at nut and bolt stores like Fastenal.


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## 1hand (Jan 18, 2010)

Well here I'm making a drive plate to make up for the gap between the dead center and the start of the drive/mounting holes.





A piece of .5 x 2.0 drilled 1.0 for dead center clearance, And two .5 x 13 tapped holes for mounting.









A test fit for the bolt holes.





Tight fit here. About the max turning diameter for the QCTP in the stock location.




Rounding the edges will make for a fast setup. Match the curves and tighten down, Will be right in the center.




Measuring up the length for the drive slot.




Transfer da measurement.




To da mill.








Drilling the work piece for the drive dog.








There she is.... Going to be a real handy for some operations later on down da road.

Matt


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## Deanofid (Jan 18, 2010)

Hi Matt;
The place to get Locktite is an auto parts store, unless you are near an industrial supply. I've never seen a NAPA or Pep Boys that didn't have it.

I'm not sure about Permatex, either. Most of what they make is a paste, like RTV sealant. Maybe they make a Locktite copy.

Thread locker like we're talking about is thin as water, and comes in different colors and different strengths. It will say Locktite ThreadLocker Blue, or Green, or Red, etc. If you are just asking about it in relation to holding pins on this engine, then any one of them will work. The blue kind, called Locktite 242 is easiest to work with if there is some chance that you may need to remove what ever it is you've locked.

You can get it in a tiny tube, or a small bottle. Big bottles too, but big bucks.

Dean


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## 1hand (Jan 18, 2010)

Napa was closed. Only thing I could find at the time. I use Loc-tite at work, and this Permatex seams to be the same stuff. It says it takes 230 in lbs to break. So I figure I'll give it a try and report back.

Thanks, Matt


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## Deanofid (Jan 18, 2010)

> Transfer da measurement.
> To da mill.



Yo; If yer gonna talk da Yooper, ya talk da Yooper all a' da time, eh?
; )

Looks like you're off to a bang up start, Matt.
It sounds like you got a proper clone with the Permatex. Should do fine.

Dean


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## 1hand (Jan 19, 2010)

Wel ya der den eh!


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## GailInNM (Jan 19, 2010)

Loctite acquired Permatex in the early 1970's. It gave them a gateway into the auto supply stores that Permatex already had a distribution channel into. For many years the Permatex part number contained the Loctite part number as part of it on the retail packages. In some cases it still does. But all the product was made by Loctite and just re-branded under the Permatex name. The original Permatex gasket compounds remained unchanged. 

Some of this has changed in more recent years and many Permatex part numbers have no relation to Loctite part numbers.

Here is a link to a part number conversion chart including the ND industries part numbers for similar products. ND has some similar products, but are not as easily available as Loctite and Permatex but are commonly used in the electronic industries.
Gail in NM

http://www.electronicfasteners.com/pdfs/ndindustries/AnaerobicCyanoacrylate_Cross_Ref_Chart.pdf


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## 1hand (Jan 19, 2010)

Good bit of info Gail, Thanks. The Permatex I have is Item# 27100. The chart shows a dash next to the Loctite 271. Looks like a match. Printed a copy of the chart for future REF.

Thanks Matt


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## 1hand (Jan 19, 2010)

Started the Nut today.













I used 6-32 tap on this for I don't have a 5-40. I will just the dimensions of the Valve rod for this.

About as small as I want to go. All in all, for the first piece for my first engine it went pretty well. One handed too. ;D

Matt


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## Deanofid (Jan 19, 2010)

No stopping now!

The first piece seems to take me the longest, one handed or two! After that, I'm committed. To the process, I mean! But maybe should be put in the loony bin, too.

Keep on with that penny, Matt. Most everyone seems to like to see the scale of parts made on this forum. 
M&M's are good for scale, too...

Dean


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## 1hand (Jan 19, 2010)

Got a few goodies this afternoon.




The brass for the #33, and a flywheel, and a darnet gots to make other flywheel cause I screwed this one up, and if you look real close there's a ball turner in there too......... :big:
After the tiny nut we're going for something bigger next. 





Matt


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 19, 2010)

Hey Matt, congrats! I disappeared down in the shop for a few hours and just came up and see your into it full bore! :bow:

Looks like you got a shipment from an online metal supplier.

Like Dean said the 'start' is the hardest, and now that your committed there's nothing that's gonna stop you now.

I'll be stopping in now and then to see how your project is progressing. I need stay down in the shop as much as I can and get serious about finishing up my project. I got side tracked with the chucks and back plates. And today I got side tracked again, by picking up some brass bar stock that needed to be cut up and marked. Now I'm in a bit of a panic as the end of the fourth week approaches. My plan was to finish in 3 weeks. These silly 'self imposed' deadlines are a carry over from when I worked. 

After 8 years of retirement you would think I could shake it off and learn to relax. :big:

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 20, 2010)

After 8 years of retirement you would think I could shake it off and learn to relax. :big:

-MB
[/quote]
Funny thing happened today. I was taking my 4yr old to preschool this morning, and after only being laidoff for 4 days, I was thinking about the machining to do when I got back home, and blew buy the turn to preschool, as I thought I was on my way to work. She said daddy you missed it!! I said I was sorry, I was thinking about something else. She said That's OK daddy, Just don't miss it when you come to get me. :big:

Used the fly cutter for the first time last night, And went pretty good after I stripped the allen screws putting it in the tool bit. Drill out, re-tap, readjust bit out the 1/16" I was short. When I was cutting I got a bit of a squeak when the trailing end of the bit had entered onto the work piece. I wasn't really chatter, just a squeak. I was cutting about .004 at 650rpm. About a 2.5" wide cut, with a carbide cutter. I sped the rpms up and down, but didn't seem to make a difference. I was using the power feed on its lowest setting, would just move the table. "slow, took like 4min to go the 5 or so inch's. ???

Matt


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## 1hand (Jan 21, 2010)

Not much progress today. Though the 4jaws showed up.






No progress was probably due to the orientation of the new apprentice........


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## Deanofid (Jan 21, 2010)

She's cute!
Nice new chucks, too.

Dean


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## Powder keg (Jan 23, 2010)

Cant wait to see more progress Matt. Looks like you have plenty of material and a cute helper. Your set man!


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 23, 2010)

That,s a very pretty assistant you have there! She'll be running the machines before you know it! :big:

I see you got your chucks. Good deal and that was quick! Are they what you expected, any shipping damage, are they from the Ohio seller, yada, yada, yada? Inquiring minds what to know! ;D

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 23, 2010)

Thanks guys! She is quite the helper. She likes taking the blanks I cut and build stuff with them, In matter of fact, we're still looking for the chunk for the subbase. ??? Might be in one of her princess dresses. 

As for the chucks, Yes they are from the great state of OH. They seem great for the price. The back plates won't be here til Monday. As you said MB they put both in a flat rate USPS box, and still hit me for shipping on both. Wasn't too bad though the both chucks to my door was $103. I guess when I planned on getting a 4jaw down the road, I figured it would of been over a $100 just for one. So thanks for the great find Rick. Wish I could of got 2 for 1 deals on the rest of my junk here. ;D 

Matt

PS........Any Ideas for the old 4jaw?...............Mine has never been put together. Just read your reviews on it, and didn't figure it was worth my time. Its threaded for my lathe, so should be able to make something out of it? ??? ???


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 23, 2010)

Matt, the only thing I can think of, is to bolt a flat aluminum disc to that's covered with threaded holes an get some use from it as a extra fixture plate. I had mine hanging around as a decoration till I boxes it back up and put it away.

They do make a nice wall decoration. :big:

-Mb


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## Deanofid (Jan 23, 2010)

Matt, if it's the original 4 jaw that came with the 9x20 lathes, it's pretty poor for metal work holding. Sell it on ebay as a wood lathe chuck. That's what it really is, anyway.

Or, take all the jaw stuff out of it and use it for a face plate. Should be good enough for that!

Dean


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## 1hand (Jan 23, 2010)

Dean, Filling it full of threaded holes for possible mounting configurations would be a great idea. Getting some use from the useless. When I make them spindle stubs for the RT, this would work great for that.


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## 1hand (Jan 24, 2010)

My first Flywheel............



















































Matt


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## ksouers (Jan 24, 2010)

Very cool, Matt!
Congratulations! It looks like a fine job. Seriously.


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 25, 2010)

OOPS, Ya got a jump on me by starting your build. I been buzy re-arranging, cleaning, and day dreaming all day about simple improvements that I will probably not get to this year. Hauled out 4 bags of junk to improve the way the shop looks. I found a beautiful dual bulb grinder that's been buried and forgotten for 15 years, while I suffered with one that behaves more like a jack hammer than a grinder! I also found a lot of "What in the world did I save this for?" I'm glad its cleaned up a bit, you never know when some one might stop by to say hello. And I feel better about my shop with the few little improvements that I made. ;D

HEY! Sorry I got off topic. I just wanted to say that's a beautiful flywheel. First one, really? My first one (dozen) sold for scrap 

Uh oh! The competitions getting tougher and tougher. 

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 25, 2010)

Haven't done anything with the brass center bushing. What do ya think solder or Loc-tite? Never soldered before, but there's a few other things to be soldered on this engine as per Brian's plans.

Glad to here you got the shop tidied up. Mine's got swarf from one end to the other. That's OK though, means I did something today I guess. 

You pick the next candidate yet?

Matt


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## Deanofid (Jan 25, 2010)

You could solder it in, assuming the flywheel is steel, rather than aluminum. Can't quite tell which it is from the pics. A steel flywheel will turn blue, when you solder it. You might not want that.
There's nothing wrong with Locktite, for this purpose.

It looks very nice, Matt!

Dean


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 25, 2010)

1hand  said:
			
		

> Haven't done anything with the brass center bushing. What do ya think solder or Loc-tite? Never soldered before, but there's a few other things to be soldered on this engine as per Brian's plans.
> 
> Glad to here you got the shop tidied up. Mine's got swarf from one end to the other. That's OK though, means I did something today I guess.
> 
> ...



Hi Matt. If the flywheel is steel then acid core solder should work. If it were mine though I would use Loctite since the flywheel will need a lot of heat due to its mass. The bushing should be a light press fit to get a good concentric alignment. Easy enough to re-make the bush if needed. Pad the surfaces with paper so you don't mar-up those nice finished surfaces during the pressing, and also check the surfaces on your press for burrs or swarf that can cause damage.

I have it narrowed down to three choices. I'll know for sure tomorrow after I check my materials on hand. Its a tough choice this time around, as the list of Elmer's engines is growing smaller with every build.

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 25, 2010)

It's a piece of 12L14 steel. Think I'm just going to try the loc-tite for now. I can always solder it later if need be. The 12L14 was really nice to machine. I got a couple extra chucks for a ball turner I want to build. 

As for the crank rod and crank lobe, can I just loc-tite that also? Along with the valve rod ends?


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 25, 2010)

1hand  said:
			
		

> It's a piece of 12L14 steel. Think I'm just going to try the loc-tite for now. I can always solder it later if need be. The 12L14 was really nice to machine. I got a couple extra chucks for a ball turner I want to build.
> 
> As for the crank rod and crank lobe, can I just loc-tite that also? Along with the valve rod ends?



Those parts have less contact area and its probably best to soft solder them. Their small brass (I think) pieces and won't take much heat at all. A low temperature soft solder should be strong enough. That's what I use and nothing of mine has come apart. Make the parts a close fit, flux lightly with rosin flux using the tip of a tooth pick, wipe up any excess, heat gently and pull then away the heat and lightly touch the intersection between the two parts. If the solder doesn't melt and flow in, pull it away and add a few seconds more heat, pull away and repeat the touch with the solder. Don't over heat the work piece, Usually when the flux starts to bubble a few more seconds will bring it up to the temperature that will melt the solder with a light touch to the joint.

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 28, 2010)

Boy, You take a few days off, and your moved to page 2. 

Good morning everyone!

Matt ;D


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 28, 2010)

1hand  said:
			
		

> Boy, You take a few days off, and your moved to page 2.
> 
> Good morning everyone!
> 
> Matt ;D



Good morning to you.

Its time to head down to the shop and make a mess!

A few days off! Some guys have it made. ;D

-MB


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## 1hand (Jan 28, 2010)

Honey Do's days off. Got a bunch of stuff done around the house that's been put off for while. Which is good, when the boss is happy, so are the rest of us. ;D

Spent all day sorting bolts, and making labels with last years Christmas present from the kids. Handy little device to use. Least I can read whats in the drawers now. Much better than decoding my hand writing. ???





Matt


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## 1hand (Feb 12, 2010)

When I get to the soldering on this project, I found this whole setup on EBay for less than half of retail.
I had to buy the fire bricks locally.








Matt


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 12, 2010)

Matt---What the heck are you talking about?---Bushing in the flywheel???? Not in my plans!!!


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## 1hand (Feb 12, 2010)

Sorry Brian. I didn't want to drill through my pretty Flywheel........ :
I hope this is OK? ;D

Congrats on the work you've received Thm:
Matt


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 12, 2010)

Matt--I looked closely at the pics you put up of building the flywheel, and I'm not sure I understand why you need to put a bushing in it. Did you bore the center too large by mistake, or are you using the bushing to give an offset shoulder to put a set-screw in, thus avoiding the hole though the face of the flywheel?---In either case, use Loctite. Soldering is something that you do where you absolutely have to, but avoid if you can. Loctite works great when there is lots of "surface" between the parts being joined.


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## 1hand (Feb 12, 2010)

Just an offset for a setscrew. I Loc-tite the bushing to the steel flywheel. I wanted to give the flywheel a little flash with the brass center.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 12, 2010)

Okay, that makes sense. I look foreward to seeing the rest of your build.---Brian


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## Deanofid (Feb 12, 2010)

1hand  said:
			
		

> Sorry Brian. I didn't want to drill through my pretty Flywheel........ :
> I hope this is OK? ;D
> 
> Congrats on the work you've received Thm:
> Matt



Aw heck, Matt. Build it however you like it. The way Brian did it wasn't _all_ in Elmers plans either.

If you want to solder it, try practicing on something first. It's the classy way of doing things, but takes a little learnin'.

Got any new pics?

Dean


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## 1hand (Feb 12, 2010)

Dean,

Thanks, I didn't know where that conversation was going....... :hDe: 


No progress yet, just rounding stuff up for when I get my prosthetic stuff done and off to the patten office. Not sure if I'll stick with the original scale or scale it up like I first thought. Its hard to enjoy something when you have such a hard time with the small parts. 

Going to do some practicing with the new torch though. I did go to tech school for welding 18yrs ago, so I'm not too worried about figuring it out. Its just going to be different feeding filler with my prosthetic hook instead of with my hand. All the welding I do now at work is MIG, and usually with 1/2" plus material.

Matt


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 12, 2010)

1hand  said:
			
		

> When I get to the soldering on this project, I found this whole setup on EBay for less than half of retail.
> I had to buy the fire bricks locally.
> 
> 
> ...



That's a seriously nice looking torch outfit you got Matt.

It looks like a small size set up that would be perfect in my shop!

Can ya ship it to me for a closer look. I promise to send it back. ;D

When ya see good deals like that let me know before you buy, okay? :big:

-MB


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## Deanofid (Feb 12, 2010)

That's a neat torch set you got, Matt. Might be a good topic for a review in the "Tools" section after you've had a chance to check it out.

Can you get this same set to use with refillable cylinders?

Dean


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## 1hand (Feb 12, 2010)

Ya its a kit Dean that comes with the disposable tank regulators.
http://www.weldfabulous.com/Smith-Little-Torch/Outfits/Smith-Little-Torch-23-1014-p4543737.html

Matt


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## gbritnell (Feb 13, 2010)

Hi Matt, I bought a set of Little Torches quite a few years ago. I started off using it on my full sized tanks (oxygen and acetylene). The acetylene regulator would work fine for low pressures but the oxygen was a bear to get down that far. I finally bought the small regulator with gauge from Little Torches ($120 at the time) and now have it on my full sized tank. For model work that is one of the greatest tools I have. You can silver solder/braze tiny parts with ease. I'm sure you'll get alot of use from it. 
gbritnell


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