# 1/3rd scale 5hp Galloway Build



## Jasonb (Jun 30, 2013)

The model is of the 5hp Galloway round rod hit and miss engine to 1/3rd scale so its quite a big old lump.







Originally made by Richard Shelley the Galloway kits are now done by 
Linley Machine  under the Minicastings range and are available in a number of different scales. You can also get them via Forrest Classics in the UK.

So lets start at the bottom. The kit is supplied with a sub-base and on the larger scale castings the four mounting lugs have to be added as it makes it easier to cast the base without them. These started off as a length of 5/8" hot rolled.






These were cleaned up all round with a fly cutter, cut and milled to length and a hole drilled through each.






I then set up the vice on top of the rotary table with a stop and rounded the two ends.






The last job was to machine these to the correct height which got rid of the piece that was in the vice and therfore not rounded off.






I then spent some time shimming up the base with packers and feeler gauges to ensure that when the underside was machined it would sit true when turned upright






You may be able to see a darker shiny area in the corner, this is where the thin extremities of the casting have cooled quickly and "chilled" the iron, luckily I was using a carbide tipped cutter as these hard chilled spots will take the edge straight off HSS tooling.






It was then a simple job to clamp the casting the right way up to machine the top surface






The sockets for the mounting lugs were roughed out with a drill and then finished with a 5/8" milling cutter






Not a bad fit, these will now be bonded with JB Weld which will also be used to fillet the internal corners.






I also took a pass off the ends to remove some of the excess draught angle






All that work and this piece may not get used, it all depends on how I mount the engine when finished.

J


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## Herbiev (Jun 30, 2013)

Great work and great photos. Settling in for the ride


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## Jasonb (Jul 7, 2013)

As I wanted to be able to bolt the bearing caps in place while doing some of the machining on the base these were tackled next. 

The two edges were machined first, note the strips of aluminium to take up any uneveness between the vice jaws and the cast surface.






I could then support the casting on parallels while gripping by the previously machined edges to bring the base to thickness






While in this position the step that locates the caps into the base was milled 1/16" deep either side.






The two ends were then machined square to the other faces






The casting was then sawn in two and the cut ends machined but leaving the caps 1/8" over length.






The mounting holes were then spot faced and drilled, make sure you follow the drawings of the base and not the caps for this as the holes are not central on one drawing but central on the other!!






J


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## Jasonb (Jul 7, 2013)

On the full size the cylinder/crankcase is a single casting with the water cavities cast in place, the model uses three parts - the base and cylinder jacket which are both supplied as casting and the liner which comes as a length of dura-bar. There is a lot of work in these three bits so I will break the post up into the various parts.

The base is a bit awkward to hold firmly so after some initial marking out to see what needed to come off where I mounted it the right way up on the mill with packers and feeler gauges to get it sitting true and stop any distortion when bolted down. I took a very light skim off the oiler hole and edges of the  bearing housings which gve me 3 nice "legs" to mount it by.






I noted the difference in height when machining the 3 points so it was a simple matter to arrange suitable packing so the underside could be milled flat and true. At the same setting the 4 mounting holes were drilled and the ones under the cylinder reverse spot faced with a home made cutter 






The ones at the crankshaft end were easily done in the conventional way.






And a quick test fit on the sub-base. You may also be able to see a vertical line that is cast into the side of the bearing support to indicate where the crankshaft should come and just to the side of that another cast dot also to indicate where the centre should be!!






The base was then bolted to a machining plate and mounted at 30
deg to allow the bearing housings to be machined to height, I took this as the vertical cast line and my scribed line at the correct height from the bottom of the casting. you can now see the groove where the bearing caps locate.






The last bit of metal under the timing gear stud hole had to be removed with a fly cutter and then the mounting holes drilled & tapped.






The bearing caps were then bolted in place with temporary cap screws and along with the housings machined back to finished width.






And the final photo in this sequence shows how I had to mount the casting. As I don't have a tilting table or mill head my usual pair of angle plates were set at the required angle and some additional clamping added at the lower end, i looks a bit bodged but was surprizingly ridgid. The machining plate makes it easy to clock the casting true.






J


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## Herbiev (Jul 8, 2013)

Great pics. Enjoying the ride.


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## Niceonetidy (Jul 8, 2013)

Good start, Jas, I shall follow along . . . .


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## Lawijt (Jul 8, 2013)

Great work & pictures. Keep us updated please.


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## Jasonb (Jul 13, 2013)

The next job on the base was to machine the flange for the water jacket to butt up against. The casting was not disturbed from the machining plate and transfered to the lathe. I know the exact centre height above the cross slide is 3.389" so it was a simple matter to subtract the casting and plate thickness from that to arrive at what packing was needed. The side of the machining plate was clocked true to the lathe axis ensuring the face to be machined is at right angles to the beraing faces.






The flange was then fly cut to the correct distance from the bearing centreline






[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAgF8tAo-YQ[/youtube]

I then swapped the flycutter for a boring head and machined the socket for the liner. The tool in the boring head is one I use to put a final chamfer on the corners.











[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T87tM6RPm5Q[/youtube]

I then put a rough hole through the cam side bearing before returning to the lathe once again to mount the casting on the cross slide but this time the machining plate was clocked at right angles to the lathe axis and a wobbler used to pick up the location for the hole.






The other bearing housing was then drilled out so a between centres boring bar could be used to open out both housings to finished size.






With the lathe work done it was over to the mill to machine the timing gear stud hole and faces for the push rod brackets






J


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## gbritnell (Jul 13, 2013)

Boy this brings back memories. Great work so far. I like all your setups. 
gbritnell


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## Jasonb (Jul 27, 2013)

The next part to be attacked is the cylinder, I spent a while working out where best to place the cuts and put some basic marks onto the casting. The bosses for the rod guide and ignitor can't really be moved so the end faces were marked from the bosses.






The face where the hopper mounts was the best face to use for the initial holding but was not totally parrallel to the cylindrical part so a feeler gauge was used between the casting and the angle plate and a cleaning up cut taken over the head end.






This freshly machined end was then placed against the angleplate and the top face cleaned up but left oversize at this stage.






I then knocked in a temporary plug and marked the centre to make it a bit easier to set things up in the lathe, the machined end of the cylinder was set back against the chuck to keep things square and the end faced.






I then mounted the old 4-way toolpost that came with the lathe and centred up a 16mm indexable boring bar and used that to open out the bore. Its not easy to see but the bore does not go all the way through as the end of the liner needs to butt up against the face you can just see in the bottom of the hole. The inner diameter is also 0.010" smaller than the outer so the liner can slip most of the way in before the press fit takes hold.






The casting was then rechucked so the other end could have the cored hole clean out to 0.100" undersize and machined to final overall length

J


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## Jasonb (Jul 27, 2013)

The liner is supplied as a large lump of cast bar about 70mm dia. This was held in the 4-jaw, faced and then opened up first by drilling in stages upto 3/4" and then boring to 0.0100" below finished size.






Approx half the length was then turned down so it was a nice firm fit into the base casting.






Here it is slipped into place, you can also see that I added a taper to help fitting the piston rings before I removed it from the lathe.






Before I forgot to drill it the coolant drain hole was added to the cylinder with an extended drill, this needed to be drilled before the liner is pressed into place.






The liner was then held by the machined end and clocked true before boring the waste out of that end and finally turning the different diameters to press into the cylinder. Not easy to see but there are 3 different dia all only a few thou different from the next.






The cylinder was then pressed onto the liner while still in the chuck using the tailstock to apply pressure and some Loctite for good measure.
After allowing things to dry over night I inserted packing and shims so the assembly could be bolted down to the cross slide. By doing this with things still in the chuck it kept all the bores true.






I then used a 35mm bar between ctrs to bore out the assemble to the required 1.750"






And without disturbing anything ran the sprung hone up and down the bore a few times.






And a quick look down the bore. I was pleased that the butt joint between liner and cylinder did not show so things must have pressed into place as planned.






J


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## Lawijt (Jul 27, 2013)

Very nice build & also the pictures.
But a question , how do-or did you find a good spot on the castings to put it straight in the mill & the lathe.
My castings are now a disaster & ready for scrap i think so. I'am building the 10H from Stuart.
My other project I put already away. Need a lot to learn.

Barry


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## Jasonb (Jul 27, 2013)

If you look at all the first photos of each part being machined you will see that they have been shimmed up with packers and feeler gauges or held in the vice with soft packing. This is used to get the irregular cast surfaces into the correct position in no case have I clamped a cast face straight to the mill or in the vice.

With any castings you need to take your time and sit down with them on a surface plate or good flat surface, compare whats on the drawing with what is in front of you and work out how the part needs to be held for the inital cut to make sure the surfaces that will remain "as cast" will be true to the machined ones and to make sure you don't take too much off one surface and then end up not being able to clean up the opposite surface.

It does help to have a good machining allowance on the castings, the iron ones on this engine seem to have 0.100" on most faces though the Bronze ones are a lot tighter and thats likely the same with your Stuart ones.


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## Lawijt (Jul 28, 2013)

Thanks for the answers. I will study your pic's very good.


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## Jasonb (Aug 4, 2013)

The next job is to join the cylinder/liner assembly to the base. There was a bit of a difference in the diameters of the two castings so I milled the worse away while it was easy to get at.






There are a couple of options for the joint, I opted for the three pointed grub screws, the positions were spotted through from the tapped holes in the the base and then drilled 0.030" nearer the flange with a 90deg spotting drill. By shifting the hole in this way the grub screw will pull the joint up tight as it screws into the conical hole.






A few drops of 648 loctite around the liner and screw threads and it was screwed together for good.






The mounting face for the hopper was then machined to the correct height and the hole for the cylinder oiler drilled and tapped.






I then turned the assembly on its side and machined the push rod bosses back to height and cleaned up their sides at the same time. The boring head was used to cut a flat surface for the ignitor to bolt to.






And a quick test to see how the rod fitted (I'll describe machining the bronze brackets later)






A pocket was milled for the ignitor points and a hole drilled through into the combustion chamber.






The final job was to drill the 1/16" oil hole down to the cylinder at an angle. 






There is quite  abit of fettling and some filling required to get this how I want but that will wait until the engine has been test run.

J


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## Jasonb (Aug 17, 2013)

The next logical part to tackle was the cylinder head. This is quite a simple iron casting consisting of basically a disc with two spigots on one face for the valve guides and a boss on the edge for the inlet & exhaust.

I spent some time accurately locating the centre so that the valve spigots would be in the right place then clocked the casting in and machined the cylinder mating face and spigot to locate into the bore.






Back for some more marking out of the valve positions and the first was clocked true






Then drilled, reamed, valve cavity opened up by boring and the same boring bar used to cut the seat before repeating for the second hole.






With the head clamped to the mill table the two spigots were brought down to size with the boring head.






I then clamped it in the vice and started work on the inlet & exhaust connections. The inlet worked out fine but if placed as dimensioned the 3/8pipe thread would have come out the side of the casting as shown you the bit of rod.






In the end I opted to move the threaded hole away from the edge but keep the 3/8" passage as drawing so it joined with the valve cavity as intended.











The whole cylinder/base asembly has now got quite large which meant it was difficult to locate centre and plot the six cylinder head bolt positions so I drilled the head and used that to spot the hole positions onto the end of the cylinder. In this picture the mill head is up as far as it will go and I had to make a bush to hold a stub length tapping drill in a morse taper collet as there was not room for any type of chuck.






And finally here it is in place held by some temporary fixings, still needs a good fettle around the edge and I'll also describe the rocker pivot later.






J


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 19, 2013)

Looking good, Jason!


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## jwcnc1911 (Aug 19, 2013)

There is a lot of skill and patience in those pictures!

You guys with your castings are making me want to build a home foundry in a major way.  After seeing this I am going to search out a casting kit to build.  If that goes well I'll take the plunge into a foundry.


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## Jasonb (Aug 25, 2013)

I decided to make the crankshaft next so that it could be used to gauge the bore of the flywheels. Two pieces of 1 x 1/2 bar were machined down to 0.875 x 0.45 x 2.625.






These were then bored 0.625 for the shaft and 0.563 for the reduced ends of the pin






Holding them in the 4-jaw a small raised area was formed on opposite sides 0.0125" high giving a finished web thickness of 0.425"






I then poped then onto the rotary table to add a radius to the ends






I used 5/8" precision ground mild steel for the shaft and pin, thse are all the bits ready for silver soldering.






You can see below that the solder was applied to one side only which had a 1/16" deep chamfer around the hole, this should stop the solder wicking all the way onto the working surfaces and save clean-up time.






A little bit of work with a file and it cleans up quite well.






For added security some 1/8" holes were drilled and rods inserted ready to be peined over into shallow countersinks






After bashing them over a bit of draw filing restores the surface and makes the rods all but invisible






With that all done the middle can be cut out and filed flush






There are a couple of keyways to be cut but they will be cut once all the parts can be assembled onto the crankshaft to get their exact positions.

J


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## Jasonb (Sep 8, 2013)

With the crank done the next items are the two 10" flywheels. I just managed to hold them with the 4-jaw chuck bearing onto the inner face of the rim. First operation was to turn the outside face, as the tool overhang was a bit long to start with I used a 16mm boring bar as it was thicker than my largest L/H tool but had to mount it upside down and run the lathe backwards.






Next the side was machined from the inside outwards using the same boring bar but running the lathe in the conventional manner. I took off approx half the waste which equated to 0.100" which seems to be the usual allowance that these iron castings have.






It was then a simple matter to advance the tool to clean up the recessed edge of the rim and counterbalance.






The hub was then trued up using a button tool to give a nice fillet to the internal corner. I always prefer to turn the rim before the hub/bore as if anything is likely to move it will be while the rim is being machined.






The hole was opened out with ever increasing drill sizes to 9/16"






And then bored out to the required 5/8" using the crankshaft as a plug gauge for a nice fit.






The flywheel was then turned around to machine the other side, I used two DTIs, one at the top to get it concentric and the small one at the bottom to make sure there was no wobble.






The face of the rim and recess were then machined. The governor side flywheel also needs the area around the hub skimmed smooth. On this flywheel there were a lot of small holes and inclusions which took a lot of effort and one blunted tip to get through but luckily buy the time I got down to finished sizes there were very few pits left visible.






The remaining cast surfaces were then given a going over with the Dremel to remove flash and the worst of the cast texture and the governor flywheel drilled and taped for the weight pivot and spring post.






The bronze governor weight was cleaned up and the pivot bolt machined.






And finally bolted in place






J


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## Jasonb (Sep 21, 2013)

With the crankshaft and flywheels done all that was stopping me being able to play with the engine was the bearings so these were next on the list. A length of 27mm bronze was cut with the hacksaw to get the basic split bearings.







The faces were milled flat and then soft soldered together before transfering to the lathe to machine to shape






The finished bearings sitting in place






Looking for a quick job one evening I decided to make the supplied timing gear a bit more like the ones on the full size engine as the supplied one is just a plain gear






I dished out the face and then used the rotary table to cut the window in the central web






The piston is supplied as an aluminium casting with a large chucking spigot on one end, this was trued up first to get a decent surface to hold onto.






I clocked the inner cast surfaces true and then took a cut off the end and took the OD down to 0.050" oversize.






And then used a boring bar to hollow out the skirt to size before leaving the casting to cool.






I then went back and machined the OD to size at which point the casting started to look a bit porus but it should be OK in use.






So I carried on and cut the ring and oil grooves






Over to the mill to take the gap for the conrod to width






Then without rotating the table mounted it vertically so the pin hole is at right angles to the previously machined faces






Then drill and thread the holes for the pin retaining screws.






It was then machined to length to complete.

J


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## Niceonetidy (Sep 22, 2013)

Jason,

The engine is coming along really nice, good to see your progress,

Cheers,

Colin


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## Jasonb (Oct 26, 2013)

With the piston and crank made the next logical item was something to join the two together so a bit of 1.5" x 0.375" flat bar was sawn off to form the conrod.






The ends were squared off and the 12" digital callipers bought out to check length.






The hole for the small end bush was then bored






The other end was drilled for the big end bolts and a Ctr hole added.






The small end was then reduced to width and a bit more as things looked a bit tight inside the piston if made to drawing.






It was then held by the small end in the 4-jaw and supported with the tailstock at the other and reduced to 3/8" dia which gives this engine its "round rod" nickname.






While the 4-jaw was on the lathe the block of bronze supplied for the big end bearing was faced and then transfered to the mill to square the edges all oversize











I then did some rough marking out and hacksawed the bearing into two






The mating faces were then flycut followed by milling the mating slot/spigot and bolt holes drilled











A couple of dowels were then stuck into the bolt holes to keep things in line while the oil cup spigot and then the sides were turned.











The other few bits are just simple turning jobs so I won't detail them but these are the parts that make up the piston/rod assembly











And it all put together






J


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## Jasonb (Nov 10, 2013)

The rocker arm post fits over the intake valve and is supplied as a bronze casting, first job was to get it running true in the 4-jaw and face the end followed buy boring out the hole for the valve & spring to fit inside.






A mandrel was knocked up to fit the bore, the end faced and ctr drilled to give additional support while the outside was turned.











Then over to the mill and into the rotary table to drill the three mounting holes, without turning the table it was reset from vertical to horizontal and the slot to get access to the valve milled.






It was then mounted onto a block of aluminium so it could be easily held and indexed while the end was milled to shape.






I had to use a long reach mill to cut the slot for the rocker arm.






A rough and ready jack was used to help support the end while the pivot pin hole was drilled & reamed






The part was finished with some hand filing of the end and around the three bolt holes.

The rocker arm is a fairly straightforards steel fabrication. Start by marking out and drilling/milling the holes in a bit of plate.






Then saw and file to shape, add a bit of rod with a locating slot.






Silver solder the two together






Machine the pad back to size






And basically done though I have since fettled it a bit to make it look more like a casting.






J


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## Jasonb (Nov 10, 2013)

The governor arm is a similar steel fabrication but a bit more involved as it has a forked end. Again I started by marking out and then milling the holes in some plate before cutting and finishing to the lines.






The fork was worked onto the end of some 3/8" flat stock, starting by boring a hole to form the inside curve of the fork.






Followed by a bit of milling to form the two fork prongs






Quick slot to locate it on the end of the other bit.






Mount on the rotary table with a bit of packing between and round the outside of the fork






Drill and tap for the pins that fit in the governor spool






Solder together with the addition of another pad set into a hole. By leaving the fork on the parent bar it was easy to make sure the two parts were in line.






Job done






J


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## Jasonb (Dec 15, 2013)

The push rod slides in a pair of brackets, these are supplied as a single bronze casting which was first held in the 4 jaw to get a flat reference face. Although it looked fine from the outside some holes soon started to appear.






With the now flat face against the vice fixed jaw and a bit of aluminium on the other side to take up any uneveness the 4 sides were squared up but left oversize at this stage.






I could then hold it by these faces to bring it down to thickness and shape the governor arm pivot that is part of the bracket nearest the crank






The slot for the pushrod was then milled which revealed how cheesy the casting was, followed by adding the mounting holes











The slot for the governor arm was added, then the pivot hole and finally the brackets were taken to size
















Then onto the rotary table to add a bit of shape






There is a little block of steel on the end of the pushrod that engages with the governor latch, the "dovetail" shape of this was cut with a flycutter






And here is the rod assembly complete with cam follower wheel and adjustable fork. Most of the holes are out of sight in teh surfaces that the rod runs against so I don't see it being a problem as there is still enough meat to give a decent bearing area.






J


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## Jasonb (Dec 15, 2013)

The ignitor trip is another bronze casting, this time it seems a bit more solid. I have included a bit of the drawing so you can see what I'm aiming for






I started by machining the top and sides to give me some flat surfaces to do some rough marking out on






I then started to machine to size but left the angled faces square for now






I could then indicate off these faces to locate the pivot hole






Followed by the slot so it can slip over the push rod. Also drilled and tapped for the stop screw at the same setting.






I then roughed out the top and cut a rebate (rabbet) for the steel tip






An oversized piece of steel was silver soldered in place before being machined off flush with the bronze











And thats another bit done






The Governor latch that engages in the small block I showed in my previous post is cut from a lump of 3/8" steel which was marked out as a guide though I used the DRO to get the actual positions






The straight bits were easy enough but to ensure the curves met the round pivot boss correctly I used the spinning button method - when the edge of the tool touches the button it turns and you know you are in the right place











Then onto the rotary table to form the raised boss and round the outside






And this is the finished part as the drawings would have it.






But as its a casting I spent a while with files taking off the edges to get it more like ones I have seen in photos. Also got the spring post and back lever in this shot






J


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## Jasonb (Dec 26, 2013)

The ignitor body is another bronze casting, I started by turning the outside dia to the finished size of 1.187"






Then the oblong boss was tidied up and the holes added. It could have done with a bit more metal to play with but nothing that could not be got around






A small piece of brass was soldered on to form the lug for one of the stop screws






The inner face was then turned to bring the flange to thickness and the spigot formed






A couple of holes were tapped on the outside to take the spring pins and stop screw. The trip stop and shaft can also be seen in this shot.






The trip is a tricky little thing to make, I've included a bit of the drawing so you can see the part. Most was worked on the end of a bar using the rotary table.


























The ignitor needs a tapered spring winding so I started by making a mandrel






Then wound the music wire spring onto the mandrel






Then a quick bit of work with some pliers and the spring is done






The other bits are quite straight forward so I won't cover them here, just to say that I use 3/32" TIG electrode for the contacts on the hammer and anvil to reduce the errosion caused by the spark. This is the finished item on the engine.






J


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## Jasonb (Dec 30, 2013)

The carb is another tricky part carved out of a bronze casting. I started by holding the main body in the 4-jaw so I could skim the chucking spigot, this was then held in the 3-jaw and work started on the top of the body.






The hardest part is turning the tapered seat below the threaded portion as there is not a lot of room for the tool as it gets towards the bottom of the taper.






While the topslide was set over I machined the flow valve so the tapers would match






It was then over to the mill to face back the various bosses before drilling and tapping these. There are also sveral passages that have to be drilled for the fuel, you can see one here that has been counter bored ready to take a soldered plug to cap off the end.






The final hole is for the needle valve and the 1/16" hole for the fuel has to come out in the tapered seat so not the easiest to line up.






Fortunately it came out just about right






Two plugs were turned from the chucking spigot material and then silver soldered into position.






The hole for the fuel line did not come out very central on the cast boss so I decided to machine the boss concentric with the tapped hole. To maintain some draft angle I packed the rotary table up at one side. Then used a ball ended cutter to tidy things up.











The top was turned in the lathe before transfering to the mill to form the hexagonal part






Before going back into the lathe to chamfer the edges






It was then parted off and the make thread cut before once again returning to the mill to drill the air holes






And this is a rough assembly of parts so far.






The remaining bits are quite straight forward so not worth describing, this is all the parts that go into the carb.






And the assembled carb, just the spring and washer missing off the bottom. If you compare this shot of the body to the previous you can see where I have used an engraving tool to restore the "cast" texture around the fuel boss and the plugged holes.






J


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## Jasonb (Feb 1, 2014)

This post is just a round up of a few odd items that complete the build.
The piston rings were turned from a length of 50mm CI bar and then parted off with a few spares. I knew there was a reason these scribers had a bent end 











The oiler was fairly straight forward, once you have made one they are all very similar.






The grease pots for the crank and big end are just brass turnings, the straight "knurl" was done using two turns of the rotary table handwheel to get 45 divisions and cut with a spotting drill in a similar way to using an engraving cutter.






The silencer (muffler) is supplied as two bronze castings, the inside face is turned while holding by the spigot and at the same time a small recess squared up on the inside






You can then expand the chuck jaws into this to hold it while turning the outside.






And the two halves turned






This is what it looks like with all the bits put together.
















At this stage I would normally test run an engine but as there was quite a lot of filler (Bondo) work needed I decided to paint it first and avoid having any oil soak into the iron that may affect the paint. So slap on a load of Upol






Allow to cure and then sand it down






Then blow on some high build primer, sand refill, sand and touch up primer






Fiat "Red Orange" seemed a good match to the Galloway colours.











Followed by some yellow lining and clear coat.

Thats it for tonight, don't expect the next post to be the running engine there is still a long way to go as there is plenty to fabricate that did not come in the kit

J


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## barnesrickw (Feb 2, 2014)

Looks as good as the real McCoy.  


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## barnesrickw (Feb 2, 2014)

Just realized how obscure that comment was.  It was about the oiler, and the Michigan explanation of the origin.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elijah_McCoy



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## Jasonb (Feb 4, 2014)

Some of you may recal that back in post #4 I said that I was considering not using the cast sub-base. I did fancy making the "cross cut rig" but after some consideration decided against that as at 1/3rd scale the whole thing would be about 54" long. Therefore I took the option of the "hand portable" cart and a bit of time spent on Google Images resulted in an old e-bay advert for an original Galloway hand cart and some useful dimensions in the description.






Armed with the sizes and photos I was able to arrive at a suitable design and decided to tackle the wheels first, this is what I was aiming to reproduce.






Luckily the wheels scaled out at 5.5" and I was able to buy some 139.7mm dia x 5mm wall ERW tube. I cut off two pieces long enough to get 2 rims out of each.






The rings were held in the 4 jaw trying not to distort things too much, that was why I opted to do two from each ring as at the early stages there would be twice the amount of metal so more rigid. The outside was just skimmed and a recess cut on the inside to take the rim down to 2mm thickness.











Once one was done it was just a case of doing it another 3 times before sawing down the middle to give the required 4 embrio rims











I also bought four 150mm x 5mm thick lazer cut steel discs from the same e-bay seller as the tube






And proceeded to trepan out the middle






Rather than cut all the way through and risk the central disk doing something you don't want I like to cut from both sides until almost meeting. Then support the disk and give the middle a whack and it should open up like a tin can
















I then turned down the outsides so they would fit into the rims and rest in the bottom of the recess






Followed by a bit of silver solder






It was then back to the lathe to thin the other side down to 2mm, reduce the depth of the central web and then using a form tool to round over the web edge





















That was a bit of a long one, next the hubs.

J


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## Jasonb (Feb 5, 2014)

Hubs now, starting with 4 bits of 1.125" steel parted off from the bar






Machine to length, drill under size and turn the short parallel section on each end.






Make up a mandrel and with the aid of the ball turner cut the concave profile in one end






Flip it the other way round on the mandrel and do the other end, repeat for the other three hubs.






Reset the ball turner to round over the remaining central ridge.






Quick bit of blending with a file and emery and the basic shape is complete.






Now transfer the mandrel to the chuck on the rotary table and drill & tap six M4 holes followed by a shallow 1/4" counterbore






I used up all my 5/32" and 4mm steel making the spokes so the last few had to come from some chromed brass that was in the scrap box. Use about 50" of material in total. These were threaded M4 one end and rounded over on the other with a simple form tool.






I then cut six half round recesses into the rim web to suit the rounded end of the spokes






The hub nipples were faced to length and rounded over, to speed things up I arranged the two tools on the tool post to save having to rechuck 24 times. These were also tapped M4 for part of their length and drilled 4mm for the remainder.











A quick mock up of the hub, the spokes can be screwed in/out to true the wheel and then the nipples used as locknuts to hold them in place, the counterbore in teh nipple hides any spoke thread.






The rim nipples are a similar job but drilled 4mm right through and notched 5mm to slip over the rim web, this locks teh other spoke end in place.











All 4 wheels were then assembled with some soft solder paste where needed before heating to melt the solder. Following that I mounted them on the lateh, clocked the rim true and then bored the hub to finished size so the wheel would spin true on te axle.






A quick clean up and thats the wheels done.






J


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 6, 2014)

Very nice, Jason - I like it


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## gbritnell (Feb 6, 2014)

Hi Jason,
Great fabrication techniques on the wheels. I made a set of drawings for a Russel traction engine years ago and it has a similar construction for the wheels. Thanks for the great documentation.
I noticed on the picture of your pushrod with the igniter trip lever that you have a slot in the pushrod. You must be working from the new drawings. When I built this engine and redrew the drawings I added that feature to make it easier to time the engine. 
gbritnell


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## Jasonb (Feb 7, 2014)

yes they are your drawings George as its one of the Linley produced kits, I did have a 1/6th kit with the old drawings complete with all their errors.

With the wheels out of the way it is time to start work on the actual cart starting with the front bolster. The top corners are rebated so that the angle iron sides will sit flush, the bottom curved to allow the axle to articulate and the pin in the middle allows the axle to pivot, this is the basic sketch.






The various bits of steel were cut to size, I used 3mm angle at the ends as I needed the internal radius and the bottom curved part was a section of 100mm x 3mm wall steel tube.






As there were going to be a lot of parts to try and hold together for silver soldering I decided to fabricate the lower parts by welding, I'm not the worlds best but with a bit of fettling it came out OK.











After silver soldering a bit of file work had things looking the right sort of shape and I also milled out the slots where the angles bolt to the sides.











The two inner webs were marked out by holding the job ontop of a blued sheet of 2mm steel and just scribing the shape. These were then coated around the joint with soft solder paste and a few spacers parted off from some aluminium rod to stop them dropping through during heating.






After a bit of a clean up we have the finished bolster, you can see why I wanted the internal radius of the angle iron as it allowed me to round the outer corner and still keep the same wall thickness.






J


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## Jasonb (Feb 22, 2014)

Next up is the front axle casting. 






The parts that the spindle passes through were straightforward turning jobs and I printed my drawing out as a guide for bending the top flange.






The lower flange was bent from some 5/8" x 1/8" flat bar and the two ends welded on. After I made this part PatJ kindly provided copies of an old Galloway spares catalogue that show the lugs for the handle to be in a slightly different place.











The main central web which is thicker in the middle was shaped from some 1/2" square and then the whole lot silver soldered.











So that the axle can both steer and pivot it required a hole that was 7/16" round at the top but opening out to an oval at the bottom, to do this I mounted the work on the rotary table with the parts top surface dead on centre height and milled it 10degrees either side of vertical.











The end webs were added in the same way as the bolster then after a bit of a clean up and some primer it looked like this






The rear bolster/axle is just a combination of the two parts described above so I won't go into much detail, just a few pictures should give an idea of what went on.





















The two side rails were cut down from 30x30x3mm steel angle






Don't panic I did it in three stages sliding the angle along and cutting about 7" in each setting.






And a quick test assembly of the main components











J


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## Jasonb (Mar 16, 2014)

Well you can't have a "Hand Portable" cart with out a handle so a couple of bits of maple were ripped off a board and run through the planer/thicknesser. Then a Mortice and tennon joint cut where the shaft meets the handle.






The handle was then turned in the lathe to give a couple of handholds. Two strips were cut from sheet and bent to form the brackets.






The fuel tank was soldered up from copper tube and plate with a couple of brass fittings.






A wooden box was knocked up from my stash of Parana Pine, this will hold the sealed 6V battery and the Minimag LT coil











I had intended to print my own waterslide transfers for the side of the hopper as the supplied vinyl ones were a bit thick and the font was too small but yellow on a dark background is not a good colour for this method when using the clear carrier. One of our other members did offer to use his computer cutter to make some masks but it did not like my intended font. So in the end I resorted to printing out the wording on a self adhesive postal lable and then cutting out the individual letters by hand
















Not too bad, the G and O could be a bit smoother flowing






I made some gib head keys from 1/4x3/16 keysteel and fitted them nice and snug to the slots. I like to do it with the key still on the end of the bar as it gives you a bit more to get hold of while you are getting the correct fit then cut of and form the head once its right.






The last job was to make up some pipe and fittings to get the fuel from the tank to the carb






J


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## Lawijt (Mar 16, 2014)

This is really a nice build log. Keep it going on.

 Barry


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## necchiom (Mar 16, 2014)

Awesome work and exciting log!


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