# fixing up old iron - removing name plate rivets



## speedyb (Apr 20, 2012)

Howdy, working on a cleaning and repainting a craftsman 6" lathe.
was wondering what favorite methods of removing the rivets holding on name plates, etc. ?
thanks kindly


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## crab (Apr 20, 2012)

I did not remove them,I coated them with grease ..
Bill L.


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## rake60 (Apr 20, 2012)

I'm an antique engine restorer/collector so I've had my share of that operation.

Rivets will spin so a center drill or spot drill are pretty much useless.
I use a cheap automatic center punch like _*THIS ONE*_ to make a point in the center 
for the drill bit to bite.

The rivet will still spin when you are drilling it out. Start with a very small bit and work 
your way up until the head of the rivet breaks off. The you will be able to see what size
bit is needed to drill the core of the rivet out.

By the way, Welcome to HMEM.

Rick


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## ghart3 (Apr 21, 2012)

Some drive rivets are hard and a punch or drill bit can slip off and make a oops.

A method that can work if you have a welder handy.  Take a strip of metal and drill a hole that is smaller then the rivet head.  Hold the hole in the metal tight against the rivet head and do a quick tack weld from rivet head to metal strip.  turn the metal strip to unscrew the rivet.


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## steamer (Apr 21, 2012)

If its a drive screw, grind a slot in the top of the screw with a dremel tool to fit a screwdrive you have to hand and they usually back right out.

The drive screws are available from McMaster Carr.

Dave


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## speedyb (Apr 21, 2012)

thanks ;D
I have to admit, with just a few name plates, taping off/grease then paint and touch up does sound the easiest!
you know it would look good from 5 feet away, lol.

I am going to have my work cut out for me on this lathe. 
Truthfully, a wiser buyer would have passed on it , due to its worn bed ways. I did not realize the extent till I got it home.
It is one of those situations where the carriage is tight at either one end or the other, but not both.

a little background - not a machinist. Some years at woodworking.
PM45 mill. Just sold a PM1127. Have a Grizzly 12x36 on order.
Have been interested in this for about a year, having spent a lifetime marvelling at what machinists accomplish.


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## Omnimill (Apr 21, 2012)

I've knocked them out with a small, sharp cold chisel.


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## GWRdriver (Apr 21, 2012)

Re Dave's comment above, MOST name plate screws in Atlas machines (but not all) are drive screws and can be driven out from behind. Here's a 618 restoration I did a few years ago. Sweet little machine.


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## speedyb (Apr 21, 2012)

great looking lathe GWR.
How is the bed, any compromises that you are making?


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## GWRdriver (Apr 21, 2012)

Speedy,
Lots of times the best that can be said about older Atlas beds is that they haven't been used as anvils. This one was in excellent shape. I did this some years ago and I don't recall having to make any compromises. I stripped the castings to bare metal and built them back up with and initial coat of automotive self-etching primer and then two brushed coats of a Glidden machine grey industrial enamel which sadly isn't available any more. That particular enamel laid down like it had been sprayed on. Wish I had some more.


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## speedyb (Apr 22, 2012)

I am reminded of a polyurethane paint that also brushed liked it was sprayed! It also seemed to be a very tough paint.
I will be rattle can'ing my 101.

However, once I am done with the overall clean up and repaint, I may part it out on the 'bay - - no wait...Give this to my Son! of course! lol. give him a reason to drive 12 hours. double lol.

In the meantime, I have been working fast and furious - cleaning out my shed of 12+ yrs of junk. Given that it is 16x20, I have a 14' trailer loaded full and just as much on the grass/driveway next to it!!
Then I moved two woodworking floor tools into the shed, freeing up a lot of space.
Now I look forward to finally setting up the HF tool bit grinder I bought a year ago! Not to mention a better place for the other bench sanders scattered about.


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