# Entablature Steam Pumping Engine



## Rivergypsy (Aug 5, 2012)

For the start of this thread I'm afraid I do have to blame Pete - whilst building the compound condensing engine I got sidetracked by an incomplete set of plans he sent me. No blame though mate, it's a blinder 
Its from January 1927 from Geo Gentry, and seems to have stopped after a few articles in Model Engineer - I can find earlier articles of his work but not later, so there's some research involed on this on to pick out the details. It has to be said though, this is one of the most graceful and elegant engines I've come across so far.

I started by modelling the existing plans in Solidworks and correcting where necessary, and whilst not everything is finalised yet, the basic structure is now nailed down, so i've started machining. 

I have been lax with the early pictures i'm afraid, but here's progress so far, and I'll try to fill in detail as I go. Plus if anybody fancies and more info, please feel free to give me a shout )


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## Jasonb (Aug 5, 2012)

You are making a great job of that, I think I may actually have been the one who sent Pete the link when it came up on teh Model Engineer website, its certainly a handsome engine.

Look forward to some more photos as it progresses.

J


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 5, 2012)

Thanks for that, I'll do my best to make it a nice job. Did you ever find any more references to the engine?
Cheers,
Dave


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## Jasonb (Aug 5, 2012)

I did search around but could not find anything else.


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## geoff (Aug 5, 2012)

Hi Dave
I really like you engine so far, a lovely finnish on those columns, it reminds me of the lady stephanie beam engine i did recently and i  wonder how they assembled the real thing, they could'nt pick up the whole thing and screw the columns from under the baseplate, 
Can we see a image of the overall design.
Geoff


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## cfellows (Aug 7, 2012)

Lovely work, Dave!

Chuck


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## rhitee93 (Aug 7, 2012)

That is going to be striking.  Beautiful work!


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 7, 2012)

Thanks very much, guys. And Chuck, your signature on here is the story of my life - fingers x'd that I get the important ones done, and bring lost engineering back to life )


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## Don1966 (Aug 13, 2012)

Great start of a beautiful looking engine, I will be tagging alone to see it finished.

Don


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 14, 2012)

Here's the overall layout of the engine, which I fell hook, line & sinker for, and also the SW model of the crosshead, which I started yesterday.

I found a nice piece of tool steel for the crosshead, which should give a nice strong and good looking part, but the machining may take some time, and there's going to be a lot of hand fettling to do as well, although I'm undecided if to use a bit of 3D machining to ease the process or if to do it manually for the practise... 

I'll try to be more efficient in terms of posting pics from now on too 

Dave


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## rhitee93 (Aug 14, 2012)

Wow, I can see why you fell for this engine.  That crosshead is a nice piece of work.  Make me a bit weak in the knees to think about machining it though   I'd have to break that up into a few parts and solder them together...


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 14, 2012)

Ok, here's todays effort; the crosshead has been blocked up, drilled and reamed, and now very roughly knocked down to size, ready for some turning.
I think i'm going to do this manually just for the challenge, so fingers crossed for tomorrow, and also for not being awake all night pondering which order to turn it in..


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## rhitee93 (Aug 14, 2012)

This I have to watch!


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 14, 2012)

Lol, it might not be pretty 
Fingers crossed though!


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 14, 2012)

I'm thinking some 4 jaw work for the piston rod boss, and then mounting it on a pin to do the little end bosses before turning the cross piece, although sods law says I'll be awake awake half the night pondering this, and have a different plan by the morning!


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## rhitee93 (Aug 14, 2012)

[email protected] said:


> ... although sods law says I'll be awake awake half the night pondering this, and have a different plan by the morning!



I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one with that problem


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 15, 2012)

Here we go, the first turning has started on the crosshead - a lot of checking angles, clearances and stops, but the little end bosses are now done - major relief and reassurance! 

So next job is the fixture for turning the piston rod boss...


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 7, 2012)

Hiya,

Here we are again, I thought I'd better pull a digit out on this project as I have more ideals for new job, and don't want to leave the old ones unfinished...

I've just had a couple of days machining on the main bearing pedestals this week, and i think we're making a useful bit of progress. The pedestals and their caps are from stainless, and the bearings from brass, but unfortunately time and material caught up with me adn i still have one left to make... Next job is the second main bearing and then (I think...) the crankshaft. Wish me luck on the 'rod and crosshead to link it all up though...

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 7, 2012)

Argh, can't attach images...  the main bearings are on though ;o)


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 7, 2012)

Ignore me, must be having a senior moment


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 7, 2012)

Really nice work on a beautiful example of Victorian architecture in a steam engine.  I'm anxious to see the crosshead when it's done

Cheers,
Phil


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 8, 2012)

Thanks, Phil - it's always nice to hear things are going in the right direction!

You're right though - the crosshead has got to come out of the desk drawer and hit the machine again, but I'm wavering between that, the crankshaft or the pedestal corners next...


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## Rivergypsy (Dec 30, 2012)

Ok, first things first - I hope you're all had a great Christmas, and will have a very happy New Year! 

Also, I've been very bad on taking pictures of progress so far as I've been grabbing machining time when I can, but not always when I've had a camera with me... 

Where we're at now is that the crankshaft is done - machined from a very handily sized bit of gauge plate. The crank pin was turned first between centres, and then after rough milling, the main bearings turned. The finishing was face milling to get the tapers on the sides of the webs, and then hand filing and papering to blend these into the mains. 

Also, I've started the con-rod. This took a reasonable amount of research and SW design, as I'd like it to reflect the full strapped design of the original, but not many details or proportions were in the plans. I'll try to post the SW image soon, but for the main part of the rod I started with a session on an Interact to produce the main profile, with a bit of mild 3D work in the centre for the radius. Then after knocking the back off (roughly and carefully) on a manual mill, I put it up between centres on a manual lathe, and am currently in the process of turning the centre profile - very gently though!

Will pay more attention, and take more pics soon, but feel free to ask for any info or pics!  

Btw, couldn't help myself but drop in a pic of a little bit of 3D machining the Interact did a while back - corny but cute ;D

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 3, 2013)

First progress of the New Year - hopefully we'll get this done before the years too far gone 

Here's one end of the connecting rod centre finished now. Mounted in the same way as before - 14mm 5C collet holding the top end, and half centre carrying the back, I machined a 2.2deg taper to blend the previous 4.5deg taper into the parallel mid point. This was the blended with 80grit emery cloth on a file, before working down to 400 and the 800 grit. 

Second half tomorrow when I can find who's borrowed my radiussed tool steel bit that I used last time...


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## Jasonb (Jan 3, 2013)

Good to see you making some more progress with this one. I had to do a similar conrod on my Benson though all the sections were rectangular so it could all be done on the mill.

Keep them comming

J


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 3, 2013)

Cheers, Jason 

Nearly time to break out the needle files for the wedge slots too - how long did yours take you to do?


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## idahoan (Jan 3, 2013)

I Like the insert tool that you are using; I have wanted to get one like that.

Nice work on the engine; thanks for sharing your progress.


Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 3, 2013)

They're very useful tools for getting into tight spaces, and will also so lightish roughing - highly recommended. I've had this one for about 12 years now, and even after modifying it to finish the inside of a BR2 crankcase it's still a blinder 

Glad you like the progress too - thanks!


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## Jasonb (Jan 3, 2013)

I took most of the material out by drilling several 1.4mm holes and then plunging with a 1/16" slotdrill in 0.010" steps and then finally attacked it with a file 1/8" square file that I ground two sides off so it was just the right width for the 1/16" slot and in effect had two safety edges.


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## pete (Jan 3, 2013)

I see I'm really late to this party. I could get a doctors slip though. Very, very beautiful work Dave. I'm certainly glad you jogged my memory about this build yesterday. And what's really nice is I'm not to blame for any of it. I'm positive Jason is right and he provided that link. Anyway he lives closer to you Dave. And for anyone who hasn't seen much of Dave's Solidworks creations? He's far too modest. The Victorian style of engine building have always amazed me due to the amount of artistic shaping the designers used. Form didn't follow function. Jason's Benson is another that has much less details added, but it was still done on the full size that weren't needed, but they were still used simply to help beautify an engine.

I'm curious though, I've only seen George Gentry's drawings in the older M.E's. Does anyone know his history? He was very talented, and I can't believe that the M.E. magazine was the only one to publish his work. He was much too late to have been a full size designer for the Victorian style of engines. Maybe a designer for the more modern types during the mid 20th century?

Pete


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 4, 2013)

Pete - you may be right, but for sure you're a bad influence anyway on the project front - my list has expanded beyond all recognition with these plans you keep sending! 
Good to see you on here again though - roll on a speedy recovery and getting that shop going again!

Nice work on that 'rod Jason - hopefully I'll have something similar in the not too distant future...

Anyway, roll on lunchtime machining - it's Edwards 5 cylinder heads on the CNC, and the second half of the 'rod on the lathe today ;D


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 6, 2013)

Well, I've had an hour in the workshop tonight, so now the fork of the con-rod is all fettled up with 400 grit. On with the wedge slots tomorrow, and the straps next


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 21, 2013)

Well here's a bit more machining, finally 
The straps for the con-rod have been programmed in Gibbs, machined from gauge plate, and cleaned up - just waiting for the slots to be cut. 
The first pic is the Gibbs screen to prove the tool paths - each colour is a separate op.

I do have to admit to cheating on the crosshead though. Its been sat in my desk draw, and nagging at me, so i thought it was time to push it forwards. What I have done though is finish roughing it out by 3D milling on the CNC - a wuss I know, but if it gets the engine done... :hDe:
I've milled a fixture for it to align it on a pair of hollow 5/16 dowels, and clamp it by two M6 cap head screws, and then hit it on each side to profile the radius of the cross shaft. Once the machining is done, then it should only be a quickly needle file and emery paper job to clean and polish it ready for it's bushes and fitting to the engine.

I should be able to post some more pics tomorrow on the finally milled crosshead, and hopefully also the start of the post for mounting the pivot of the governor lever - it's taking some tweaking in SW to get the proportions right, but it's close


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 22, 2013)

Ok, all the 3D milling on the cross head is done now. I pondered a final op with a 3mm cutter to chase out the corners a little further, but the proportions from the 6mm ball nose are looking good. I've had about an hour tonight with needle files to start blending the profile, and apart from one axis of machining, it's looking good and blending in nicely. I guess there was too much slop on the dowels, and I pushed it too far one way on the 'off' axis. Time now to keep going on the files and then emery paper, but personally the shape is great and I can't wait to get the 'rod' hooked up to it


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 31, 2013)

After several hours of needle filing, then emery cloth, and a trip to the buffing wheel, the first end of the crosshead is nicely blended in. I'm well happy with how it's coming up, but what feels like an eternity of fettling and blending all the different curves together is soul destroying - still, only half the main 'head and the pump lug to do now... :wall:


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## hinte (Feb 1, 2013)

This looks very nice! Great work! But is this element need to be machined from single piece of material ? Maybe easier way would be machine subparts on lathe and then weld them ?


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## aarggh (Feb 1, 2013)

That's one amazing build Dave, can't wait to see the end result! Beautiful work.

cheers, Ian.


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 4, 2013)

Many thanks for the kind comments guys 

Hinte, call it personal preference, but I prefer machining parts from solid if at all possible. Partly it's not having any joints in the part, but mainly it's that I like to push myself and improve my machining skills, and this part has certainly done that, lol. The filing in particular is soul destroying - glad it's nearly done!

I have fabricated parts in the past, either by welding or silver soldering, and there's always the issue of jigging the part correctly, and then remachining to remove any distortion, filing/papering to remove discolouration, and then sometimes the joint lines are visible...


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 4, 2013)

Another lunchtimes machining, and the crosshead is progressing nicely after a quick session on the buffing wheel. There's a few corners still to get into with the emery paper, so bang goes my social life again tonight :wall:

For a bit of light relief I also turned the base of the governor lever post from 316. It the drawing it looks to be a single component, but to ease assembly I've split it into 2 pieces to make aligning the governor lever with both the main fly-ball shaft and also the throttle butterfly a little easier. 

Hopefully tomorrow I'll get either the governor lever or the fork for it's pivot onto the mill


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 5, 2013)

Now why do we do this to ourselves??? :fan:


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 5, 2013)

First CAM op for the governor lever - soon it'll be on the mill


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## kvom (Feb 5, 2013)

I'd do the finial on the lathe and screw/solder it to the body.


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## Gedeon Spilett (Feb 5, 2013)

this engine will surely be worthy of the fabulous drawing of G. Gentry.
beautiful workmanship


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 6, 2013)

Thanks very much, Gedeon, I'm hoping so too!

Kvom - I'm torn which way to do it at present. I'm thinking to either turn a blank with the threaded base and finial, and then mill it from there, or if to mill the lower half and solder/loctite a German silver finial in place. I do love German silver, but I'm worried that it will looko out of place on this engine...


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 6, 2013)

Ok, a little play today. I've got the lever post mounted on the governor mount, and got a collar on the shaft, and this evening I've roughly filed out the last two corners on the crosshead - it has to be said though, filing out internal corners where 3 pieces meet each other - not pleasant!! Nearly done now though 

Tomorrow hopefully the sliding collar, fingers x'd!


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 7, 2013)

Couldn't get on the CNC today, so I went back to basics and started on the corners of the teak base to get a good foundation to build up from. I found some 1" gauge plate which I sliced on the saw, and then roughly blocked with a face mill up into square sections before roughing out with an 8mm cutter. They're now sat at 0.25 on each face, so tomorrow on to the finishing 

I did start on modelling the valve gear as well, starting with the eccentrics, but it's proved tricky to get the proportions right, but I'm going to have to stop machining soon and push the SW work forwards, as I'm running out of bits to machine, and the proportions are proving tricky to align with the Gentry drawings


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 14, 2013)

Here's progress so far on the corners of the base. I haven't taken any set up pictures lately, partly as it's plain manual mill/vice work, and also because I dropped my Ipod, so haven't got a camera handy :wall:

They need a little tidying inside, and a lot of work with emery paper and needle files outside to get them to a polish, but the basics are there.

Hopefully the governor lever will make it to the mill later today too...


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 16, 2013)

At last, the governor lever made it to the cnc woohoo1

Starting from some 316 stainless 3/4 wide x 4 1/4 long so I had some to hold on to for later ops, I first roughed to within 0.5mm in 1mm levels with a 10mm carbide slot drill, then to within 0.25 with the same cutter but 3D profiling. Then a 5mm cutter and 2D milling to open the forked end up, before switching to a 6mm ball nose in 3D milling. I could only get down to 0.5mm stepover due to program capacity on the mill (our Interact has ~5500 line memory), but it's got a finish and accuracy now that will be easy enough to finish on the next ops.

What I hope to do next week is hit it from each side to get the pivots drilled and profiled, and then (fingers crossed!) machine the lower profile to leave the lever hanging on a pair of little tabs that i can then saw through and hand finish...

Here's a couple of pics too of the corner pieces loosly fitted to the teak base, and of the engine as she is today - I can't wait though to see her with some motion work in place!


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## idahoan (Feb 16, 2013)

That's beautiful!

I have enjoyed watching this engine take shape.

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 18, 2013)

Hi Dave,

Thanks very much for your kind comments! It's feeling as though things are slowly starting to come together now 

Cheers
Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 22, 2013)

*beer* It's celebration time - the crosshead is finally finished, and brass bushed!! *beer*

It's been far too many hours of needle files, and emery paper, split up by trips to the buffing wheel only to find another bit that needed more TLC, but absolutely loving it now it's done. Roll on getting home to get it fitted on to it's guide bars!


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## Bynne (Feb 22, 2013)

Oh, its absolutely beautiful! I admire your persistence.


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## aarggh (Feb 22, 2013)

I'm loving this thread, what a brilliant job you've done Dave. It's just spectacular work mate!

cheers, Ian


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## Ramon (Feb 22, 2013)

That really is a lovely piece of hand finishing Dave - bet your fingers are sore 

It's a truly super build so far and a cracking subject - looking forward to more progress.

Regards - Ramon


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## ChooChooMike (Feb 22, 2013)

:bow: Beautiful work !!! Not sure I'd have the patience for that


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## idahoan (Feb 22, 2013)

Wow what a beautiful piece of work! 

It is a piece of art in itself; this is going to be one magnificent engine when completed.

Dave


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## aonemarine (Feb 22, 2013)

That is beautiful... im trying to figure out a way to do it without cnc...


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 25, 2013)

Many, many thanks for your kind comments guys - they're much appreciated!!

Aonemarine - the ways that spring to mind without CNC are to turn the bulk of the areas with the thinest, sharpest tool you can find (I used a VCGT 35deg jobbie on part of mine), and a few fixtures to pick up on the 5/16 reamed bores to align it. Or if you're extremely patient, to manually do some point to point milling cuts at maybe 1mm levels to get the profile - nasty work to do though.
I'd planned to take the first route and turn as much of it as possible, before I turned into a wuss and headed for the CNC, but whichever route you take, it's going to be file or Dremel work to get in around those bosses. 

Just on to the bearings for the con rod now, to try start linking up some motion work - I'll post pics as soon as I can though


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## Maxine (Feb 25, 2013)

Wow that piece looks fantastic!


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 27, 2013)

Thanks Maxine - much appreciated! 

I've got a bit of a problem at the moment, so I though I'd try and tap into the wealth of knowledge out there...

I've currently in the process of working out what's happening around the pump and valve links, and I keep running into the term 'gab ends with sliding keeps'. Now's I've found older gab ends for disengaging valve gear of horizontal engines, but I can't find anything that seems to suit what we have here.

I've attached images of the links themselves, the text from the write-up, and an image I found for horizontal gab ends, so if anybody gets the urge to take a look and throw any ideas or pictures up, it would be very much appreciated, please! I've lost count of the number of copies of the enlargement that I've been sketching on so far, lol :hDe:


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 27, 2013)

Thanks, Maryin - I'll soon have some pics of the connecting rod with it's straps and bearings, hopefully


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 12, 2013)

At last - more progress! 

I've had the CNC running a bit more lately, making blanks for some of the next parts I've got modelled - the sliding collar for the governor, the tops of the feed pump pillars, and one of the links for the feed pump motion. I had some 30mm dia stainless, and milled the first op, before going back to the lathe, parting them off, and the finish machining. The only part complete is the governor collar, but hopefully the rest will be done by tonight 

I'm also aiming to get the side ops done on the governor lever asap too - itching to get some motion work linked up here, so I'll have to go back to SW and get modelling again, as I've nearly finished making what I've done so far...


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 13, 2013)

Here we go - a bit more progress made yesterday, with the side op on the governor lever getting done. It was a tad bit twitchy (me, rather that the work, lol) around the fork, but got there in the end. :hDe:

Initially I left it on the two supports while I started cleaning it up with file and emery, and the hacksawed off the tail support, and got that filed to shape. I'll carry on tonight to get it to 800 grit, and then remove it from the remainder of the billet.

I did get the feed pump gab lever done too - first op on the CNC from 30mm dia bar, then parted off, before holding on the boss with a 5/16 collet and facing to length, and drilling and reaming for the 3/16 bore 

Next step to second op the tops of the feed pump pillars, get bushes in them, and get a shaft made... Oh, and hopefully the fork to carry the governor lever too


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 13, 2013)

Just a quick question for you all, but I'm pondering flywheel materials - I know traditionally it's SG iron, but as I'm probably going to leave the engine in bare metal, I'm wondering if to go for steel. It'll be a lot of milling, as the billet comes out at 14kg, but tempting...

Any thoughts, please?!


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## idahoan (Mar 13, 2013)

How about a nice slice of Durabar?


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 13, 2013)

I've had a look for Durabar in the UK, but no luck. Thanks for the idea though, it does look nice to use. 

I keep worrying that although iron is easy to machine, the colours won't match...


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## idahoan (Mar 13, 2013)

I didn't realize that you were in the UK I thought that Thor Labs was a US company.

I used to work on photo mask aligner (OAI) that used a Thor Labs actuator for the theta movement.


Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 13, 2013)

Ah, sorry about that - they're all over the shop, lol


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 14, 2013)

A bit more progress yesterday - here's the tops of the feed pump columns in place, with brass bushes, stainless shaft, and the link to pick up the gab end of the eccentric rod


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## Generatorgus (Mar 14, 2013)

Hi Dave, I have to plea ignorance here, I've ignored your fantastic build here simply because I had no idea what entablature was.
I've seen entablature engines and love them, just never heard the term, in fact, I've contemplated an electric type in that style (much simpler) for years now, way before I got my machines.

At any rate, I'm just catching up and your work is beatiful, I just can't say much more.

You can bet Ill be following!!!

GUS


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 14, 2013)

Hi Gus,

Many thanks for you kind comments, and glad you like it so far! 

I know what you mean though, it's an unusual name. I'd heard of table engines before this, but I guess this is an earlier name for them. As soon as I saw Gentrys etching of the engine in the plans, that was it - hook lline and sinker, lol.

What sort of layout had you planned for your electric engine? Just a thought, but if you had a brushless linear motor or solenoid hidden in the cylinder... 

Thanks again though,
Dave


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## Generatorgus (Mar 15, 2013)

Dave, I'm thinking the electric engine will be solenoid powered.
Not sure about the layout yet, I have to have a few  more sessions with my butt up against the wood stove.

GUS


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 15, 2013)

I guess the only thing with solenoids is the clonk as they hit full travel, although you may be able to damp it to a degree. If you went brushless though, it would be silent  Windings within the cylinder, and a piston made from thinwall stainless tube stuffed with opposing disc magnets...


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## Generatorgus (Mar 16, 2013)

Dave, 
Back up to my last post (or this post, I just figured that out) and take a good hard look at my avatar.
Tattered clothes, unshaven a beer in my hand....I think I'll stick to the simple unrefined solenoid theory, although, I always thought something like you suggest might make one hell of a cannon. 

This is the last one of a few electric models I built.
All of the major components were salvaged from an ancient crating factory of major electrical manufacturer, including the cherry base.
The solenoids were from a magnetic starter in that building, flywheel from cart(really tough to turn..hard iron.)
The solenoids fire 180 and the only noise is from my sloppy fits in all of the linkages.
Engine frame is hand bent sheet metal angles silversoldered.
An old worn out Atlas lathe was all I had at the time and I used it only for the flywheel, the flywheel wobbles anyway, my trademark.

With the triggering contacts on each side, you can fire one or both cylinders and it is variable speed.





GUS


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 16, 2013)

Now thats cute, I like it! 

I know what you mean, but it's just the thought of a silent engine that I like. If you get the urge to go brushless then give me a shout and I'll see what I can do to help you, mate


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 16, 2013)

Btw, your avatar? If I grumbled I'd be the pot calling the kettle black ;o)


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## Generatorgus (Mar 16, 2013)

Dave, 
"Silent engine", even though I collect and do minor repair on antique generators I'm in kindergarten electrically, (we only got up to transistors when I was in college and the computer we had was larger than my shop), but if I get a wild hair, yeah you'll hear from me.


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 18, 2013)

Here's a bit more progress from the weekend. I finally got the governor lever cut off of the remainder of its billet, fettled up, and fitted to its pivot in a nice running fit. Found a stainless dowel too - nice not to have to make all the pivots! 

At the end of last week I got the top of the governor arm pivot CNC'd to shape, including the profiled slots in the sides for the arms which I did with a 3mm slitting saw. I then milled the back off, before tapping M4 in the base (using the 1.6 pivot holes for alignment), and then mounted it on a M4 set screw in a lathe collet to turn the finial. Fiddly work, as it was doing its damndest to chatter, but with some sharp HSS and then hand blending/scraping, I think its come out quite nicely.

Last night I started fettling the governor arms (cnc'd from 3mm gauge plate, and then held in a collet to turn the ends down to 2.5 dia), only to find that the slitting saw I'd used to cut the slots in the pivot had too big a radius and the arms wouldn't quite go where they should, so yet again it was another needle file session to ease them into place. One done, one to go tonight... :wall:

There should be some 3/4" 316 stainless balls turning up today, so hopefully I'll get those drilled and bonded into place today ;D

What I've been using for some of these joints, which I'd whole heartedly recommend, is Araldite AV170. It's a heat cure single part epoxy, which cures at 160deg for an hour, but the bond strength beats the anaerobic adhesives we have here hands down. Well worth a try!

I'll have to get another camera, or my IPod repaired so that I can get some more machining pics again soon too, but in general I hope work will be speeding up on this, as (and I can't quite believe it myself) I've just been given a Colchester Chipmaster for my home workshop... woohoo1woohoo1woohoo1


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 19, 2013)

And a bit more - the eccentrics are up to Op1, so shortly I'll be skimming the back of of them and then holding in a collet for the back turning. Hopefully tonight the governor arms, will be mounted too - just waiting for the epoxy to dry on the balls... 

Here's a bit more of the modelling on the feed pump too - it's not quite in proportion yet, but heading in the right direction I think. There's another question though - I've only got stainless here for the pump bodies, but will it look odd with stainless pumps either side of the cylinder???


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 20, 2013)

Governor nearly done - just two links to do...


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## Jasonb (Mar 20, 2013)

Dave, I've been looking at that governor for the last few days and something did not look right to me. Do you feel the arms are a bit on the thick side? looking back at the etching the arms look thinner than the main shaft, you seem to have them about 50% thicker.

Comming on well though.

J


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 20, 2013)

Hi Jason,

You might be right there, now I look at it again. I'm not sure if I got carried away getting these modelled, and then didn't recheck.

Still thanks for pointing it out, and far better to have too much metal on than too little right now. I'd better break out the files again tonight then 

Cheers
Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 21, 2013)

Ok, now I think I've got the feed pump drive rod, with it's gab end modelled now. The sliding keep is still to be done, but while I think it looks feasible, I'm very keen to hear anybodies opinion before I start machining


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 21, 2013)

First draft of Op1


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## kvom (Mar 21, 2013)

My thoughts on that rod:  make in 3 pieces.  Handle on the lathe, center portion 2.5D machining, long rod portion turn down the end, then bend to fit.  Join by threaded rods or soldering.


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## Rivergypsy (Apr 4, 2013)

Nearly there on the governor now - just the main arms to thin down, and the lifting links to fettle


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## Rivergypsy (Apr 15, 2013)

I've been a bit distracted lately with going over my new Chipmaster lathe, but starting to make a bit more progress on the engine again now. I've profiled the eccentric strap halves for the feed pump on the CNC, sawn them off of the billet, and bolted them together, and now faced and finished the bored. Next job getting it up in the four jaw and turning the tail on the lower half...


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## Rivergypsy (Apr 18, 2013)

Well there's been a bit more progress over the last couple of days, but never enough hours free to make a big difference 

Yesterday I turned the taper on the tail of the strap, holding it between the sides of the jaws of an independant 4-jaw; a technique I've seen Antony Mount use. It gripped well enough, but was a pain to align as you have to adjust the jaws a pair at a time. Also, with a 4mm corner rounding cutter I got the side lugs profiled.

Today I got the sheave fitted inside it, but there was one small tight spot, so I gave it a few minutes running in on the lathe using WD40 as a lubricant, and it all runs a treat now. Next job will be the usual needle file, emery and then scotchbrite, to blend the rads.

Off to the valve eccentric next


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## Rivergypsy (May 23, 2013)

Here's a bit more progress, after getting a little side-tracked starting to draw up the next engine (a big project compared to this, but should be kind of cute).

I've got the governor lower links filed and papered to shape now, which was an extremely fiddly and careful job. so for that, now it's just the arms to thin down, and the correct dowels to fit.

The feed pump eccentric is in place too, so what's currently underway is to cut and file the keeps and wedges to shape to finish assembling the con-rod. Once this is in place, then it'll let me centre the crank and get the relevant spacers in place. 

The gab end for the feed pump rod is currently on the mill too, but very slow progress to cut the pocket with a 2mm end-mill...


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## Generatorgus (May 24, 2013)

Quote:  the next engine (a big project compared to this, but should be kind of cute).

Dave, A project like the Entablature would take me the rest of my life.

Good to see your back to posting the build.

GUS


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## Rivergypsy (May 24, 2013)

Lol - Many thanks, Gus. You're doing to lovely job on your project, but it always feels like you boys build a lot faster than I do 
This is the next project if all goes to plan - just starting to draw it up in SW now, but a lot of work and head scratching... 

View attachment 20130515081641442.pdf


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## Generatorgus (May 24, 2013)

HOLY COW!!!

I sure hope your going to post it.

GUS


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## Rivergypsy (May 24, 2013)

Lmao - let me get a bit more of it drawn up to make sure it's feasible. It's a long term job, thats sure though...


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## Rivergypsy (May 25, 2013)

Well, back in the swing of things now, I think 

Here's the blanks for the feed pump gab end and actuating lever, and for the straps for the valve linkage. They're just been profiled on the cnc ready for hand finishing so far. 

What i did try yesterday is to hold the tail of the gab end in order to turn the taper on the handle - bad move. It started ok, but then caught up and twisted, so after a little straightening I'll hand file the handle. It should be salvgeable though. :wall:

Last night I also finished making the wedge for the first of the lower ends of the con rod, and hopefully I'll get the second one done later today. All ready for another session of files, paper, and black fingers...


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## Rivergypsy (May 31, 2013)

Definitely back in the swing of things now 

The rod is finally finished and polished, and part way through a final fitting to the crankshaft. I've a couple of tight spots to ease out, but that'll get done at the weekend. And it lines up with the crosshead too, so that's a bonus, lol.

The straps for the valve gear have been 2nd op'd - very thin to hold though, so that was a twitchy moment...

And finally, the link for the feed pump with it's gab end is coming on nicely - the end I'm shaping by hand as it's getting quite thin now, the rod I've turned and fish-bellied from 6mm stainless, and have also got the keep roughed out, and an M1.6 threaded knob turned for it out of phosphor bronze.

Very nice to start getting some motion work in place at last!woohoo1


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## Gedeon Spilett (Jun 1, 2013)

all these links look awsome, and the brass cornice with rounded edge too.
you finally succeed in deciphering the plan for the gab ends, brilliant.

Is your workbench, which is paved with wooden bricks, as seen in the pics ? classy


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## jwcnc1911 (Jun 1, 2013)

Rivergypsy, what CAM are you using?


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 2, 2013)

HI Gedeon,

Many thanks - your help and sketches were invaluable with those links! Glad you like the brasswork too, although there's still a fair bit of filing to do there, and squaring out of the corners.

I actually took the pics on our old butchers block in the kitchen - I'm building in the house, and it's got pride of place on the dining table  Only of these would make a nice workbench though - they're 6" thick and weigh a ton!

JWCNC - I'm using GibbsCAM as it's what we have at work. It's ok, but I'd prefer SolidCAM as the CAM will update automatically as the model changes, wheras with Gibbs it's more of a pain. Do you use CAM too?

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 11, 2013)

All going nicely still, thankfully - the feed pump drive is now in place. 

I had one issue when I fitted the rod, though. The lever that takes the drive to the shaft looked very 'blocky' against the more sculpted rod and crosshead, so i stripped it back out and filed it to a lighter, more radiussed form, and am much happier with it's appearance now. I'm not sure if George Gentry missed a little detail here, but it did stick out like a sore thumb.

One of the next pieces for the feed pump is proving a 'slight' pain in the butt at the moment. The centre lever, which takes the drive from the shaft to the links onto the pump rod has a very tricky shape to form. I've rough milled and turned it, but there are hours of filing laying ahead, as i really do want it from a single piece of metal rather than a fabrication...

Oh, and on a final note, there's a flywheel sized billet (11" x 1.5") billet of steel on it's way as a birthday present - beats more socks any day  and I've also found a 4" billet for the drive wheel, which has been rough turned leaving 1mm all over, and I aim to rough the spokes later today. I'd planned on leaving the roughed parts for about a week for any stresses to come out, before finish turning and 3D milling on the spokes.

And as a downside, I also found that the 'rod fouls the crosshead guide bars, not by much and an easy fix, but I missed it on the CAD :wall:


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 12, 2013)

And a little more - here's the drive pulley roughed out to within 1mm all over


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 13, 2013)

And some more - I managed to find some useful time yesterday, and got the feed pump nearly finished. I may remake the gland for it though, as the studs are a little too close to the edge, and also relieve the top of the pump rod a little more - the joys of fine tuning. Fingers crossed the main pump gets started today


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## jwcnc1911 (Jun 13, 2013)

Man this is looking nice!  I'm really appreciating the columns and all the little accents.  It's really looking Grand!


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 14, 2013)

Hi JW - Many thanks, and glad you like it so far!

There's been a bit more progress so far, which I'll post pics of later, but the main pump body is well underway, the centre feed pump lever is finally polished, the steam valve lever is roughed, and I've just been giving a 12kg flywheel billet a bit of weight loss


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 19, 2013)

Here's some pics of the latest progress. I've been a wimp on the main pump body, and fabricated it instead of machining from solid though - it could have been done, but the hours of filing got the better of me... :hDe:

The main body and it's flanges were cut from some 316 stainless, and bonded with Araldite AV170 heat cure adhesive - this stuff really does stick like the proverbial, and is well worth trying as an alternative to a soldered joint. Then the side valve chamber and it's pipework were machined, and assembled using Loctite 326 on M8x0.5 threads. It took some time to get the alignment correct, but it's worth it.

What I can't quite decide yet is it to make the pumps working, or leave the guts out of them. I'm only ever likely to run this on air, and extremely unlikely to use it to pump, so fully valved and sealed pistons on the pumps just seems a source of friction and wear... We'll see a bit further down the line though, I guess.


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## kvom (Jun 19, 2013)

I assume the prototype was painted.  Are you planning to paint?


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## danstir (Jun 19, 2013)

Paint it, I guess I should paint my wifes diamond!!


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 19, 2013)

Hi Kvom,

Yes the prototype was painted, including the wooden base, which was to resemble a casting. However, I really am loving the look of the bare metal and teak, so this one will stay unpainted. Have you seen Rich Carlstedts models on the Craftsmanship Museum website that have been left in this finish? Absolutely stunning IMHO.

There's a saying I heard about the problem with paint being that it covered the beauty of iron, and I'm having a job switching off from it, however much of a pain it sometimes is.

Fingers crossed that it all turns out well...

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 19, 2013)

Lmfao, Danstir - you try your wives first, and let me know how you get on


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## rdhem2 (Jun 19, 2013)

WOW!

Your work is more like art than modeling!
I guess I am too much a plain old mechanic, as long as it works, looks be damned!
I do grind, file, polish and paint, though.

Looking forward to your future posts.


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## Rivergypsy (Jun 26, 2013)

And some more  I've started a build of Brians new engine too, but this one's too close to completion to slow the pace now.

I've made a foot valve for the main pump rod now, it's a little fiddly, especially the delrin seal, but should work nicely. Also I've found and roughed a stainless billet for the trunk guide, so the finishing work on the cylinder area of the engine should start coming on nicely now too. Oh, and the gland for the main pump is turned now too. It still needs drilling, but apart from that it's ready to rock & roll 

To get ready for the finish of this engine, I've been tidying up the details of it in SW. I'd been a bit lax, and made bits I hadn't drawn up yet, so I thought a little(?) time finalising models and drawings would be useful.


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## Gedeon Spilett (Jun 28, 2013)

I did recently a visit in an engineering museum in Paris, "Conservatoire des arts et métiers "  (academy of arts and crafts)  in Paris, where lies a large collection of historic engines, real and model, very few are painted in fact, just a few touch of black on cylinder laging or some cast parts, that's all, and never the turned columns. 
Hence, your choice for no painting is justified for your masterpiece !
I have painted most of the models I did, never the easiest part of the build IMO.


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 2, 2013)

Hi,

I've just been looking online at that museum, and it looks fascinating - thats definitely on the to-do list now. My other half keeps suggesting a visit to Paris, and while I've a sneaking suspicion that this wasn't what she had in mind, I think I'll encourage the trip  Did you take any photos while you were there?

You're right though, to get a 'scale' finish on model paintwork is never the easiest job. I have been chatting with Pete about alternative finishes, including bluing, for the next model on the list, and am quite looking forward to experimenting.

Glad you like the finish on the entablature though!

Dave


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## Gedeon Spilett (Jul 2, 2013)

Blueing or other coloring is an option, somewhat similar to ancien clocks or scientific aparatus, with blued screws.
yes, I took some pictures in the museum, but the guards are not very supportive, in addition, many models are under glass.
This steam engine is not too different from yours, I liked the mercury column as pressure gauge, on the rear column.


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 3, 2013)

Oh, now thats cute - have you got any information on who built it or where it originally was, please?


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 3, 2013)

At last, machining on the trunk port is done  

There were a couple of 'interesting' times - the long series 2mm cutter to finish the ports took some care, and the 80mm deep 5.5 dia drilling took some time too. Off to the workshop tonight for another needle file and emery session - just when my fingerprints had started to return, lol.

Off for Mk2 of the valve chest now, as I started machining the first one without checking enough details...


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 9, 2013)

Here's the latest progress, and it has to be said I'm pleased with how it's coming on.

I'm in the process of the fitting of the trunk port to the cylinder at present - it's very slow and painstaking hand filing and scraping, but it's settling in nicely. Plus the steam chest is now done too, so once the trunk is fitted, there'll be another fettling and polishing session before they meet the engine itself. And, as Pete reminded me, it'll soon be time to knuckle down to some serious fastener manufacturing... 

Oh, and here's a pic of the side links for the feed pump drive - very fiddly, but cute


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## jwcnc1911 (Jul 9, 2013)

Man, I am loving this build!  This is visually stunning!  The material, fit and finish are just fine!


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 9, 2013)

Hi JW


Glad you're enjoying the build, and many thanks! 

Each time I get the files out I keep thinking I should have had painted it, but when the parts go onto the engine it does make it worthwhile.

Btw, the flywheel is roughing in the mill overnight.     The rough turning took the billet down from 18.5kg to 10, and the finished weight according to SW is 3.5kg, so I'd guess by the end of the rough milling we'll be at 5ish? More manageable than it was, that's for sure :d


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 10, 2013)

Here we go - the flywheel spokes are roughed to within 1mm, now there's a 10mm ball nose in there doign some rough profiling to work down to 0.5mm. It'll be rough for now, with a 1.25 tool step-over, but heading in the right direction


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## Philjoe5 (Jul 10, 2013)

Really beautiful work.  I can't believe you're doing two WIP's, this and the Rupnow IC. Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your work

Cheers,
Phil


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 10, 2013)

Hi Philjoe.

Glad you like it! There is more - the compound marine engine will pick up again soon, and i'm modelling a Leavitt twin beam in SW to go next. I do hate a quiet life though, lol. 

Cheers
Dave


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## idahoan (Jul 10, 2013)

It is always a treat to see an update on this project; It just keeps getting better.


  The flywheel is especially interesting to me as I have a down the road project that will require a fully machined flywheel from stock similar to what you are doing here.
  Will the pieces at 12 and 6 eventually be removed? Is this part of your indexing scheme for when you flip it over to do the other side?


  Thanks for taking the time to keep us up dated on your progress of this great engine.

  Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 11, 2013)

Hi Dave

I'm glad you're enjoying it, and thanks for the reply!

Which project are you thinking of for a machined 'wheel? It is a lot of work to take one (at least this size) from solid, but it's a huge amount of fun and a nice challenge too. I left the webs in at 12 and 6 so that i could both get some extra bolts in while roughing, and also get a orientation when it's flipped over. It's also located on the 50mm centre boss, but this will be re-working when it goes over.

So far here, there's two hours rough turning, which was a lot of fun - 4kg of steel an hour, and still too hot to comfortably hold four hours later Rof}
On the mill, it's been running since Tuesday lunchtime, and often into the night, with a fair few more hours to go.

Seriously though, thats not meant to discourage you - go for it!Thm:


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 11, 2013)

Not too far from the end of side one now - here's 12 o'clock done, and 6 about to start. I will re-run the side four pockets though, to suit the thinner, elliptical spoke section I've changed to. hopefully that'll run overnight, together with finishing the hub, and then tomorrow it gets flipped 

Very glad that I went for steel rather than stainless too...


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## idahoan (Jul 11, 2013)

Comming along nicely!

I have plans for the Otto and Langen; the flywheel on it is 7.75" and I would most likely machine it from cast iron (Dura Bar).

Can you do full 3d surfacing on your interact? We have one in the shop at work and I believe that it can only handle 2 axis at a time. XY YZ etc. 

Thanks for the photos and keep them comming. 

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 11, 2013)

Thanks again, Dave  It's going to be running through tonigh on the side pockets, so I'll take some more snaps in the morning.

Now thats going to be a nice project thats I've not seen before. Where did you find the plans?

All the Interacts I've used so far (Heidenhain TNC151 onwards, non Boss controlled) have been able to do full 3D, thankfully. You could do a test run with a linear 3 axis move to check yours though. The only limit I've found is the maximum file size of ~5500 lines of code, so to get a small stepover on large areas, they often need to be broken down into smaller chunks.

What sort of CAM package would you be using to program it? I've run FeatureMill and GibbsCAM with Interact posts so far, and after a tiny bit of fine tuning they've been spot on.


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 12, 2013)

Side two nearly done - just the final rim sections, and 12 and 6 o'clock to go, and it's going to be running on those overnight. So, tomorrow we may just see the roughed flywheel on the engine to get a true picture of how it looks!!


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 16, 2013)

Finally we've got the first fitting of the flywheel! woohoo1
Its felt like an eternity to get here, but after it went on last night I spent the rest of the evening grinning like a Cheshire cat, lol.
The trunk port and cylinder are ready for polishing too, so I'd better pull my finger out and make some scale fasteners for them too...
Next jobs - the stand for the valve lifting lever, the governor valve, and some more valve gear components...


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 18, 2013)

Here's another little update - the cylinder/trunk/steam chest assy is now finished and polished (and still waiting for scale fastners, lol), I've also knocked up the pillar for the valve lifting lever too.

Also, here's a pic of the drive pulley with the start of the 3D profiling of the spokes. I'll post another pic of it shortly, but the first side is nearly done, and looking verrry sexy if I do say so myself


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## kvom (Jul 18, 2013)

A good example of using soft jaws in the vise to hold round or odd-shaped parts securely and accurately.


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 18, 2013)

Thanks KVOM. We've not got any soft jaws for this vice, so just using a pair of blocks like this often comes in handy.


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 18, 2013)

First side just about an hour from finishing woohoo1


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 23, 2013)

At last!! Much slow machining later and the drive pulley is off of the mill!
woohoo1woohoo1woohoo1

Due to memory size on the Interact, the step-over isn't as small as I'd like, so there's still a good bit of hand finishing to do, but overall I'm well chuffed with it ;D I've finished the taper turning on the hub and inside of the rim, and rough turned the crowning on the OD, so the next job is to Loctite it onto a 1/2" pin, and finish the OD. I'm happier doing it this way as I can go back to collets, so there's less worry about catching a finger on a chuck jaw, which is definitely anti-enjoyment...


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 23, 2013)

You do beautiful work.---Brian


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 23, 2013)

Thanks very much, Brian - I do have to admit that this is distracting me from your engine at the moment, as it feels as though it's on the home straight,  but I will get back on track!!


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## kvom (Jul 23, 2013)

> Due to memory size on the Interact, the step-over isn't as small as I'd like



Would it have worked to generate the code for one spoke, than rotate either the pulley or the work plane for each additional spoke?


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 24, 2013)

It would have been an option to have run each 60deg in turn, thats true. What I do try and do is to have the minimum amount of cutters (as there's only manual tool change) and to get them working for as long and as reliably as possible so that I can run them whilst I'm doing other jobs or hopefully overnight. What I used here was three programs per side - 6mm ball nose to rough to within 0.3, finish apart from the corners, and then a 3mm to tickle the corners out. I guess we all do it differently though, and thats part of the fun


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## Rivergypsy (Jul 31, 2013)

Still plodding away here, polishing stainless every evening, but here's the governor body after two ops on the cnc. I've left a round boss on both sides of the ball to allow it to be help in the lathe for boring the pivot once the main drillings are in. Next ops are the 5mm drillings and to finish the flanges...


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 5, 2013)

A little more progress here - I've made the square headed fasteners for the bottom end of the engine, which are from M1.6 up to M5. Not the most pleasant job in the world, but thankfully a friend with a sliding head lathe is doing the majority of them which are M3. Cheating I know, but nicer than going 'round the bend machining them all manually ;D

Also, the polishing is progressing slowly, and parts starting to come together for what will hopefully be the final time...

I've also roughed out the edge trims for the box base, which are quite happily doing banana impressions as the stresses come out of them, so they can wait a while before finishing


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## jwcnc1911 (Aug 5, 2013)

Man!  Seeing this build and the hybrid CNC/manual work going on here is fantastic!  Depending on complexity i do this a lot myself.  I have never really been interested in steamies because of the associated mess with running them or lack of authenticity of running on air.  Having said that, this is a magnificent display of patience and skill and it makes me think you could build a model toilet and it would be equally impressive!


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 8, 2013)

Just as a quick post, with a lot of help from Pete, we now have a photograph of the original engine. From the accomanying article, it turns out that George Gentry didn't actually design this engine, but instead produce drawings of an existing engine, thought to be unique and dating back to around 1830. The original engine, once restored, was shown at the London Model Engineering Exhibition in 1922, so if my plans hold up, then it'll debut there again 92 years after it's first visit ;D


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 8, 2013)

JWCNC - Many thanks, and I'm glad you like it


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 15, 2013)

Here's the latest progress - the lower plinth is well on the way now, with just some stainless inserts to set into the side pockets, and the trims for the box base are slowly getting fitted. They take a lot of fettling and testing to get right, but I'm loving the look of them against the teak ;D


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## idahoan (Aug 15, 2013)

Its looking real nice!

Have you started fettling the flywheel and pulley? After they had come off the mill it was hard for me to see how much hand work was left to do.  Im curious to see how they turn out.

Thanks for the update,

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 15, 2013)

Thanks, Dave!

No, I haven't yet. I've been focussing on the bottom end of the engine, as once these parts are complete, then everything else I make can be fitted once and for all. I'm still aiming for completion by January, so it's all a bit manic at the moment!

It has to be said though, I have been doing some hacksaw and hand file work on the flywheel to remove the machining lugs ready to get it up in the interact next week for its finishing ops. It's been difficult to leave them alone lately, but as they're the last parts to be fitted in the assembly they can wait for a little longer...

I've managed to get a few more bits done today, luckily - there's the stainless inserts for the pockets around the lower plinth, the lower trims for the box (in need of much fettling!), and some brass M8 inserts for the lower plinth, which will allow a pair of bolts to be used to secure it inside a case for transit - there's no way I want this bouncing around inside a packing case 

Thanks again,
Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 19, 2013)

And here's a bit more - the base with the first of the lower twims in place. And, compared to the upper trims, they are a very long winded job to fit, the slightest bit too much taken off in the wrong place makes a huges difference. 

Btw, Dave - the flywheel is in the Interact starting its finishing, and I've broken out the needle files on the pulley


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 27, 2013)

Finally!!! The flywheel ran on the CNC from Monday lunchtime until early Saturday am, so this morning it was ready for a quick hours skimming to true the OD, the bore, taper the hub, and radius the external ellipse - now on to the filing, papering and polishing
 woohoo1woohoo1woohoo1

It has to be said also, that it's a damn sight easier to manage with 15kg of swarf removed *beer*


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## idahoan (Aug 27, 2013)

Wow it sure looks nice Dave,

But really; the Interact ran for almost 5 days on this operation? or is this a typo?

After a few hours of fettling it is going to look as nice as the rest of the engine.

On the lower filler pieces for the base you commented that they were a challenge to fit; were these parts machined? I was just wondering what made them hard to fit into their spot?

Thanks for the update and I'm still enjoying your wonderful work.

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 28, 2013)

Hi Dave,

Thanks - I'm very pleased with it too ;D

No, it's not a typo, but there's reasons behind it. Firstly, as it was running lights out I didn't want to come back in the next day to find a scrapper in the mill, so the feeds and speeds were wound right the way down to around 600rpm and 40mm/min, and I think it worked out to be nice and gentle on the cutter too, as the same TiCN coated two fluter did the whole of the roughing and finishing.

Secondly, we have only one full 3D Gibbs seat in the building, which unfortunately isn't on my computer. So whilst I can use it, for jobs that needs adjustment or tweaking I tend to use the 2.5D seat on my machine to save p*ssing off the user of the 3D seat, which by giving it the outlines and the 3D model, produces results that are good enough for hand finishing. But, the real downside with that is that you lose the full control over the profiling operations, so the cutter tends to spend a reasonable amount of time in fresh air...  Still, it got there in the end!

Lol, just a few hours 

With the trims, I'd got the corners mounted first, and then machined the convex and concave profiles milled as lengths. But to ensure a good fit to mate to the vagaries of my filing and polishing on the corners, each length of trim has been hand filed and fettled to the correct end profile to mate with the corners. It probably sounds like moaning, but they have to be filed very carefully and gently to try and ensure no gaps. Drives me nuts to be honest!

Thanks again,
Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Sep 4, 2013)

Here's the latest progress - the feed pump lever is now pinned to it's shaft with a 1/16" tapered dowel, so that's up for final fitting tonight, and I've made a little more progress on the governor valve. We're getting there ;D

Finger's crossed that by tonight there should be a final build of the plinth, with the lower bedplate and pillars going on top of it for good...


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## Sshire (Sep 4, 2013)

Hot stuff! That is one exquisite engine. Magnificent detailing. Bravo!!


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## idahoan (Sep 4, 2013)

Beautiful as usual Dave!

Can you tell me a little about the construction of the governor valve? Was it drilled from each end or?

I'm surprised that more people don't comment on this amazing piece of craftsmanship?

Thanks for posting,

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Sep 5, 2013)

Stan - many thanks, and I'm glad you like it!

Dave - thanks again! The governor body was CNC'd from solid, working from two sides and leaving a boss on either side of where the valve shaft runs through. I drilled (very gingerly!) from either side until they met, and then gradually opened the bores up to 4mm - the last job on those bores is to re-drill using a 4mm ball nose cutter to clear the radius out, and thankfully these arrived today. To be totally honest, the only part of this I've modelled yet is the body, so I'm tending to develop the valve, etc on the fly 

More progress last night too - I finally got the plinth finished, and was able to get it base of the engine assembled with the lower bedplate and pillars. It has to be said, the sight of this coming together is making all the hours of work worthwhile.woohoo1woohoo1woohoo1

Oh, and I've just finished another 21 of the square headed bolts before 
near terminal boredom kicked in again :wall:


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## jwcnc1911 (Sep 6, 2013)

Wow!  This is looking so good!  And it has been looking good since 2001!

Just kidding, I guess I don't know a single soul who sets the date on their camera!


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## Rivergypsy (Sep 19, 2013)

Lol, I didn't like to own up to this being such a long-term project, JW 

Well, with the aim of showing this in January still in mind, I'm having a real push to try and get this done, and here's where we're up to - 

The stand for the governor bell-crank is done and ready to fit, the cylinder cover is turned and semi-polished ready for drilling and finish boring, the lever for the governor valve is roughed out ready for radiussing and polishing, and I've worked out how to laser etch a Moore & Wright logo onto oak for a little parallel project to go with this


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## Rivergypsy (Sep 19, 2013)

And some more ;D

Here's the milling for the governor bell crank, with a lot of fettling to do, plus the lever for the governor valve mounted, and the cylinder cover now drilled. Time to cool down under the air-con for a while, lol.


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## jwcnc1911 (Sep 19, 2013)

I'm curious... how many hours do you have in sanding and polishing?  More than machining I'm sure.

Looking good!


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## Rivergypsy (Sep 20, 2013)

Hi JW - now that's a question!! Sometimes more, sometimes less - I radiussed and polished the bell crank last night, and that took an hour compared to a couple of hours machining, so not too bad. Other parts, such as the crosshead, that have internal corners are a different story... Sometimes it's a pain, but when you've got the polished part sat in your hand it all becomes worthwhile!


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## Rivergypsy (Oct 2, 2013)

And some more progress. Things have been a little delayed due to my partner having her appendix out, but here's where we are now - the base is closed up once and for all, with the governor bell crank inside, and finally the cylinder, piston, cover and crosshead are in place. 

Things are a little tight at present, not due to any particular component, but just a general accumulation of friction, but better this way than too loose, and at least it'll bed in to a nice running fit.

Next job is the entablature bedplate, and then the upper motion can start to be assembled ;D


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## Rivergypsy (Oct 2, 2013)

ps - and no, the allen bolts aren't staying, but better to use them and check fits until I get the real ones made, lol


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## idahoan (Oct 3, 2013)

Beautiful work Dave!

That is going to be quite a show piece when finished; not that it isn't already.

Dave


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## Maxx (Oct 3, 2013)

Simply amazing!
That is definitely not a project for an impatient person.

Maxx


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## Rivergypsy (Oct 16, 2013)

Dve and Maxx - many thanks for your kind comments!

Progress so far - the entablature is finally polished and fitted with new square stainless nuts, and I've been industrious and made a miniature spanner set for it - 1mm up to 4mm in imperial and metric. The aim is the fettle the handles into a true radius, and then I'm tempted to try and laser etch Snap-On into the handles 

Underway there's the final batch of fasteners for the top end of the engine, but there's only so many you can make in one sitting without losing the will to live... :wall:


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## Rivergypsy (Oct 25, 2013)

And a little more - the split bearings for the valve linkage, a small end pin, some oil cups and a polished main bearing cap ;D


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## Rivergypsy (Oct 28, 2013)

And here's the weekends work - the connecting rod is on for good now, along with the sheave and rod for the feed pump. I'll get some more pictures soon, but whats currently underway is the rough finishing of the flywheel ready for polishing, and the links for the valve gear. Quite a contrast - 1mm cutters during the day, and 12" files by night, lol.

There's a new project just starting to kick off too - a pair of scaled down twin ME beams which I'm doing with Pete, but more to follow on those soon  Should provide a bit of light relief around the compound condensing engine and the Leavitt...


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## FannBlade (Oct 28, 2013)

What a beautiful build! Like a piece of art work.


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## idahoan (Oct 29, 2013)

Hi Dave

I have been meaning to get a comment posted on your latest work; wow it just keeps getting better! and you are making good progress too.

The little spanners are great; do you plan to heat treat them?"

Keep up the great work and thanks for taking time to post the updates.

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Oct 30, 2013)

Fannblade - many thanks, and I'm glad you like it!

Hi Dave,

Again, many thanks for your kind comments. The spanners I probably should have made from a steel I could have heat treated, but i had some 5mm stainless sheet here, so machined them from that. I'm busy polishing the flywheel right now, but when I get a moment I'll get the spanner handles nicely radiussed and polished.

Cheers
Dave


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## wagnmkr (Oct 30, 2013)

As has been said ... a work of art!

Well Done!

Cheers,

Tom


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## Rivergypsy (Oct 30, 2013)

Hi Tom,

Many thanks, and I'm glad you like it! 

What are you working on at the moment?

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 4, 2013)

Well the flywheel finishing is coming along nicely now; the rough filing is finished (strangle how what seems to be a reasonable finish suddenly looks more like a ploughed field when you start polishing), and I'm well on the way to getting it down to 180 grit emery cloth. It's slow going to get the rads blended nicely, but it's taking shape. I'd initially tried not to do a test fit until the finishing was complete, but last night I lapsed... ;D


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## kvom (Nov 4, 2013)

Would the flywheel on the prototype have been cast rather than polished?

May just be me, but a sandblast matte finish on the flywheel would look good against the polish of the rest of the engine.

Excellent work as usual.


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 4, 2013)

Hi Kvom,

Yes it would, but then so would the plinth. What happened on the original was the timber base and plinth had the corner pieces and inserts affixed, and then it was painted to simulate a casting. I know I've not followed 100% to the original, but hopefully enough, and it's gone down well enough at home to be allowed space on the dining table, which I do like!

Thats a fair point on the finishing, i'll keep trying it at different levels of finish to see how it goes. To be 100% sure all the marks are gone it may be safer to take it right up to a shine, and then let it down a bit, if that makes sense. So many marks that are easily missed only spring to like at the final polish.

Many thanks!!


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 4, 2013)

A truly fantastic engine, beautifully finished.  It was fun following along.  Congratulations

Cheers,
Phil


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 4, 2013)

Hi Phil,

Many thanks for your kind comments. It's not 100% there yet, but the aim is to complete it by the London model engineering exhibition in January. It's chasing down the last little details that takes the time though...

Cheers
Dave


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## nevadablue (Nov 4, 2013)

A museum piece for sure. Thank you for taking the time to share the beautiful pictures. Seeing such a build is inspiring and educational for sure.


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## jwcnc1911 (Nov 4, 2013)

Man i wish i could see this in person!  Great work!


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 5, 2013)

Nevadablue and JW - what can I say? Thank you very, very much, and I'm really glad you like it.

JW - if you ever make it to the UK feel free to give me a shout


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## Gedeon Spilett (Nov 5, 2013)

awesome thread for a great build.
I find that it is always difficult to keep an homogenous level of finishing on every parts, the museum touch.
The wood between metal looks smart, is it made of oak ? it looks also whitened (limed ?) or is  it the photographs ?


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 5, 2013)

Hi Gedeon,

Many thanks, both for your comments and also the help on those gab ends! They look easy now, but at the time nearly drove me round the bend.

The finish is hard to keep even, and it has to be said isn't 100% matched right now, but I'm trying, lol.

The timber is Burmese teak, and the light streaks are the low points of the grain. It gradually darkens and blends in as it ages, and I'm also working on filling the grain by building the layers of beeswax, but it's slow going...


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## wagnmkr (Nov 5, 2013)

I keep going to this thread and admiring this engine. Job Well Done.

Dave, I am slowly working on one of Brian's hit and miss engines as well as a couple of others, but ongoing health problems are keeping me from doing much.

Cheers,

Tom


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 5, 2013)

Many thanks, Tom!

My condolences on your health issues, and I hope you get things sorted soon. Do you have a build thread for your engine?

Cheers
Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 12, 2013)

Just a quick update, but here's the eccentric strap and link for the steam valve - only roughed right now, but nice to knock another off of the list. 

The side inserts for the plinth are on the mill right now, so hopefully they'll be done by tonight...

I was planning to get this done by mid January ready for the London MEX at the Ally Pally, but in the course of conversation it came out that a better place to show it would be the Model Engineer Exhibition at Sandown Park in December as this is where it was last shown in 1922. There's a hell of a lot to do if thats going to happen though...

Still polishing the flywheel every evening...:wall:


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 18, 2013)

Not a lot to update lately; I've got the supports for the guide bars started, with 13/32 stainless balls bonded on to some lenghts of 6mm stainless. Next job on those is to mill a 6 dia flat on each ball and drill them for the bars ready for bending. The exhaust pipe and flange is started, but i'm not all that happy with it yet, even though it's currently only rough. And the straps and bearings for the vlave gear are waitinig for the cotter slots to be cut. Still flywheel polishing like mad every night after work - the second side is nearly finished in 400 grit, so not long now until the 800...


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 25, 2013)

Still polishing non-stop, but had to take a couple of pics to reassure myself that there was an improvement...:wall:


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 27, 2013)

And oil cups for the eccentric and top of the 'rod - now onto the right angled ones for the lower rod bearings...


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## idahoan (Nov 27, 2013)

Wow, Dave that is just stunning! The flywheel turned out especially nice.

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Nov 27, 2013)

Thanks Dave, but when you see it in the flesh there's a fair way to go on it yet. But good grief is it boring to polish - the next engine gets paint for sure!


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## Rivergypsy (Dec 3, 2013)

And here's the valve eccentric strap finally fitted. The drive link is nearly fettled too, so that should be on in a day or so ;D


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## Rivergypsy (Dec 6, 2013)

And here's the valve link in place, but...it's too long 
 I'd had a brain off moment on where I'd made the break line between milled and turned parts, so this'll need a little fine tuning


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 13, 2014)

And the entablature's moving again too - here's the slide valve, valve gland, and also the steam chest cover after a first fettle and ready for some 3D engraving of a nice gothic J in the centre. I've heard of engines being named after the wife of the builder in full scale, so this one's being named Jacqueline ;D


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 14, 2014)

And the engraved cover - it took some playing with to get right, but I got there in the end. I've had to skim the edges too to tidy them up, so back to the emery tonight


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## Generatorgus (Feb 15, 2014)

Jacqueline, nice, she must be a pretty lady.


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 21, 2014)

Thanks Gus, she is 

 Here's the steam valve in place, next job fitting the steam chest cover tonight, and hopefully final flywheel fitting early next week ;D

 Btw, have you ever tried to keep a polished engine clean when you're in the middle of restoring the house? Soul destroying...


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## Generatorgus (Feb 22, 2014)

Rivergypsy said:


> Thanks Gus, she is
> 
> Here's the steam valve in place, next job fitting the steam chest cover tonight, and hopefully final flywheel fitting early next week ;D
> 
> Btw, have you ever tried to keep a polished engine clean when you're in the middle of restoring the house? Soul destroying...


 

I've remodeled my house one room at a time over the past forty years, some twice (kitchen and bath).  Very hard not to dust up the entire place. 
Golden rule #1: I mess, my wife cleans up.
Good rule if you manage not to get a fry pan on the side of the head.


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## Rivergypsy (Feb 22, 2014)

Absolutely, Gus - blue jobs and pink jobs. Blue = tools, pink = dusters 


Sent from my iPod touch using Model Engines


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 7, 2014)

Ok, back to the drawing board for the governer body. In finishing the part it became apparent that one of the drillings had wandered, more than likely where it crossed the through hole, and was about to break out of the side of the part. I opened it out to 3.5mm with a vague idea of dropping a bush into it, but it soon became apparent that to get a proper job it was time to start again... ho hum...


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## Generatorgus (Mar 8, 2014)

Just a little part but lot of work. Going nicely until the last file stroke. Gloom, despair and agony. You seem to have handled it well, I think.
My reaction oh:th_wtf1:rant::wall::toilet:*beer*


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## idahoan (Mar 8, 2014)

Bummer on the governor body; I sure you will get it sorted out.

I can't believe you let that beautiful engine get so dusty; even the unfinished Pacific lives under cover on my work bench waiting for me to pay some attention to it.

Dave


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 10, 2014)

LMAO!! Mentally, that's what I was doing, Gus 

 Dave, it's my own fault, but whereas I could have left it upstairs under a cover, I do love to look at it and think through solutions to the last few pieces. So, with having permission to keep it on the dining table I made the most of it. It'll dust off ok though


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## Rivergypsy (Mar 28, 2014)

Nearly there now! The governors remade and the valve links are on


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## Rivergypsy (Apr 15, 2014)

And the Mk2 exhaust now done too. I tried cold bending (the tube split), hot bending (too large a radius), and in the end the only way to get the tight internal rad was to machine it from solid. Finally this and the governor can now go on and the cylinder be dropped to the correct height. Not long now until it turns over ;D


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