# 0,2 cc diesel engine



## VALERY56 (Nov 30, 2020)

Hello, I am from Ukraine, I am 64. I would like to present to your attention my first engine. It has a volume of 0.2 cc and a cylinder diameter of 6 mm, stroke 7 mm, weight 23 grams. For its manufacture, only small homemade lathe was used. The structure was drawn in SolidWorks. The engine has a hardened steel sleeve and cast-iron piston, the crankshaft is also hardened and ground. The piston and cylinder are ground in and the cylinder has a cone of the working surface of about 3 microns. The engine starts easily on standart fuel and develops up to 14000 rpm with Cox 4x2.5 prop. A total of 4 such engines were manufactered. I have developed many different engines rating from 0.1 to 0.8 cc, the next type is in the process of preparation. Their peculiarity is the machined crankcase due to the lack of casting possibilities. Here are a few photos of the engine, accessories and, as well a shot video of the first test run.


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## Mechanicboy (Nov 30, 2020)

Valeriy, very nice work on these small parts for 0.2 ccm model engine. Not so easy for beginners where it takes a lot of patience to adjust the parts of the cylinder and piston together for it to be tight and work well on a small scale.

Здравствуйте Валерий, очень красиво поработали эти мелкие детали для модельного двигателя 0,2 куб. Не так-то просто для новичков, где требуется много терпения, чтобы отрегулировать детали цилиндра и поршня вместе, чтобы они были тугими и хорошо работали в небольших масштабах. 
Привет из Норвегии.


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## VALERY56 (Dec 1, 2020)

Thank you, I'm an old mоtor-mechanic, from 1975, I've redesigned,
refurbished and refined many different model engines,
but this one was built from start to finish. All manufacturing
operations were thought out and performed as expected.


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## VALERY56 (Dec 4, 2020)

I present a drawing of a general view of my 0.2 cc engine, maybe anyone is intereste


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## mu38&Bg# (Dec 4, 2020)

Very nice! This looks a lot like the AE series?


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## VALERY56 (Dec 4, 2020)

Thanks, yes, when designing the engine, I proceeded from the concept of AE0.1 and 0.2 cc engines, but only in the external design and technological features


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## Steamchick (Dec 5, 2020)

Splendid Valery! - Much better than my attempts. The first similar sized engine I made didn't run - It started, coughed, spluttered, fired - but didn't run more than a couple of seconds - After more than an hour of attempts, the compression dropped as the piston "wore out". I made a glow head for the lower compression - similar results. Now needs a new piston and cylinder as they are worn to badly by the electric motor used to try and start/run the engine. Probably my carburetor is useless! I'll have to re-make that with a much finer needle - or buy a needle assembly from a shop? Unless I can get some drawings of a carburetor? - But that is a few projects away from getting any attention.
You have done a splendid job.
K2


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## sniffipn (Dec 5, 2020)

VALERY56 said:


> Hello, I am from Ukraine, I am 64. I would like to present to your attention my first engine. It has a volume of 0.2 cc and a cylinder diameter of 6 mm, stroke 7 mm, weight 23 grams. For its manufacture, only small homemade lathe was used. The structure was drawn in SolidWorks. The engine has a hardened steel sleeve and cast-iron piston, the crankshaft is also hardened and ground. The piston and cylinder are ground in and the cylinder has a cone of the working surface of about 3 microns. The engine starts easily on standart fuel and develops up to 14000 rpm with Cox 4x2.5 prop. A total of 4 such engines were manufactered. I have developed many different engines rating from 0.1 to 0.8 cc, the next type is in the process of preparation. Their peculiarity is the machined crankcase due to the lack of casting possibilities. Here are a few photos of the engine, accessories and, as well a shot video of the first test run.      View attachment 121121



the fixtures (holding the parts to machine them) are particularly interesting. i see 2 faceplates with the crankcase attached. looks like the crankshaft in another.

please show us, how each is used.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 5, 2020)

Initially, may I compliment the builder for the delightful engine.  Man years ago my 0.46 disappeared into the Irish Sea in Cumbria! It was too cold to go in and swim to get it!

But may I mention workholding and that things  called Keats plates are available ( certainly in the UK)
They can be bought complete or bought as castings or perhaps made from welded bits if right angled mild steel.   For what they are they can be quite expensive but  made out scrap mild steel they are cheap and just as handy. Google is just one site with details which can be copied

Though that I'd mention it in passing.

Regards

Norman


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## Ramon (Dec 5, 2020)

Valery, as a fellow diesel engine maker, congratulations on some fine machining and a really super result. To see them run, once all is complete, is a never ending reward so I can imagine your satisfaction

Though my efforts are much larger - I prefer 5cc - I can well apreciate the skill and the limits of machining involved in such small sizes. A great result indeed.

Regards - Ramon (Tug)


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## VALERY56 (Dec 5, 2020)

Thank you all for your kind words and appreciation of my work. Drawings of all engine parts are available, as well as mandrels and accessories, which are in the photo, but I can offer you only not earlier than Monday. The problem is still - I can not insert PDF files into the text, but only a photo.


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## Ramon (Dec 5, 2020)

Hi again, 

I had this problem on here several years back. It was suggested the PDF was saved as a Jpeg and inserted as a picture. I recall it worked at the time.

Regards - Tug


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## VALERY56 (Dec 5, 2020)

Thanks, so I will


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## Steamchick (Dec 5, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> Initially, may I compliment the builder for the delightful engine.  Man years ago my 0.46 disappeared into the Irish Sea in Cumbria! It was too cold to go in and swim to get it!
> 
> But may I mention workholding and that things  called Keats plates are available ( certainly in the UK)
> They can be bought complete or bought as castings or perhaps made from welded bits if right angled mild steel.   For what they are they can be quite expensive but  made out scrap mild steel they are cheap and just as handy. Google is just one site with details which can be copied
> ...


Just followed your suggestion and spotted a nice looking Keats plate from Heamingway tools for £36.... Maybe Santa will be kind?
Thanks Norman,
K2


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## VALERY56 (Dec 5, 2020)

Maybe, good luck to you


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## sniffipn (Dec 5, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> Initially, may I compliment the builder for the delightful engine.  Man years ago my 0.46 disappeared into the Irish Sea in Cumbria! It was too cold to go in and swim to get it!
> 
> But may I mention workholding and that things  called Keats plates are available ( certainly in the UK)
> They can be bought complete or bought as castings or perhaps made from welded bits if right angled mild steel.   For what they are they can be quite expensive but  made out scrap mild steel they are cheap and just as handy. Google is just one site with details which can be copied
> ...


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## sniffipn (Dec 5, 2020)

kind of you to name the device, Norman.

google images shows both machined (from castings and billet) and fabricated. the simple item fabricated from angle would be an excellent start. i'll leave the hemmingway quick set, until i've proven the need.

my fly away, was a dc merlin on chobham common. disappeared upwards out of sight, long after the engine stopped.

the sight and sound of Valery's engine is a delight. 
David


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## goldstar31 (Dec 5, 2020)

Thanks both re the Keats Plates.   As has been pointed out the varieties and methods of building are many but so are the sizes.
Much of my smaller tooling was lost when my workshop roof blew off TWICE in winter storms.

I live in a 'Wind tunnel'
So I went a bit mad the other day and bought 30 kilos of mild steel off cuts for about £40+. I forgot what a  kilo was LOL.  And at the same time bought an assortment of metric round free cutting(EN1A) so I'm stocked up with all sorts of  possibilities.  Again, for a modest £30, I bought a little Mig welder and restored it.  To do the donkey work in sawing, I have had one of the very rough and ready  6 x4  metal bandsaws.  My Christmas Box to myself is a Potts style vertical  slide cum dividing head and it will(?)  be amongst the 3.5 MILLION parcels per day which one firm transports.
So the next thing for an old geyser is an eye jab and a virus jab-- and off I go again into my 91st year.

However, I DO look forward to see the exploits of others.

Cheers

Norman


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## petertha (Dec 5, 2020)

_The engine has a hardened steel sleeve and cast-iron piston, the crankshaft is also hardened and ground. The piston and cylinder are ground in and the cylinder has a cone of the working surface of about 3 microns.  _

Very nice. Can you elaborate on the specific hardening methods you did on various components? For example on the liner do you mean hard chromed & ground? Maybe crankshaft was heat treated steel? etc. Some of the tools at the bottom of your picture look like for lapping?


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## VALERY56 (Dec 6, 2020)

Thank you, the cylinder liner and crankshaft are made of steel with 0.4% carbon and 0.8-1.0% chromium, both parts are hardened, the crankshaft is tempered at 250 degrees C. There are no coatings. After heat treatment - grinding with a caliper grinding head (homemade) and lapping the liner inside. In the photo below, there are laps for the liner and piston with a liner holder, as well as a mandrel with a leash for grinding the liner outside in the centers.


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## petertha (Dec 6, 2020)

I'd like to see your home made grinding head one day if you care to share pictures. I had access to a toolpost grinder for my liners, which worked... but was kind of a pain to set up. Mostly how to dial & lock in very small, precise measurements on the lathe cross slide. But that's another story when I post pictures. Always interested to see how other people accomplished their engines.


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## VALERY56 (Dec 6, 2020)

My grinding head is installed instead of the tool holder, speed motor 540-12V, grinding wheel D-50x8. The shaft is installed in 4 bearings with clearance adjustment in them.


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## goldstar31 (Dec 6, 2020)

petertha said:


> .  Always interested to see how other people accomplished their engines.


Years ago, I bought a Bosch POF40 to do some wood routing and discovered that its previous  world was being a cheap tool post grinder. Which it returned to with a 1/4 inch collet and appropriate stones. So when a cheap wood router came on sale at one of these European cheap store, I bought one. Incidentally, the Bosch has a standard 43mm collar. which also fits electric drills.
The original thinking was in Ian Bradley's The Grinding Book by MAP used a  car  generator( ?)
 I was one of the few people  that hav e actually finished a Quorn tool and cutter grinder and like the Stent and Kennet tool and cutter grinders has a !"  cartridge to take an abrasive wheel and this can be detached and used as a tool and cutter 'insert' and can also serve on the table of a milling machine.
BaronJ has recently photo'd his version powered by  my gift to him of a 2880RPM 1/6th HP motor.
 Classically for small lathes was the Potts spindle which is shown in nLathes.co.uk and comes in a grinding and a drilling configuration.  Originally, they were ( Ahem ???) pulley driven!)  Clears throat again, I have both!

 A few hours ago, I received a phone call to confirm that my purchase of a Potts( ?) vertical slide and dividing head( also in Lathes.co.uk had been packed carefully and should be heading here this week.

More Anon!

 Chasing 'Thenths' has been discussed and discussed here and elsewhere. Geo H Thomas in his epic and reasonably priced( £30)  has given a couple of versions which he incorporated in his many myfords over a lifetime. One is  the addition of a Vernier scale to the saddle feed screw and the other is setting over the top slide and using it only. Of course it really depends on the pitch of the feeds screws to get thev correct angle. In fairly recent correspondence, we were informed of a certain setting and I tasks the writer to explain how he did it and was met with a loud and very stony SILENCE.
FHT in his inimitable striving for perfection, added how to lock the saddle and the vertical slide etc and years ago, I altered the slide on a log forgotten Perfecto vertical slide which is still have and  what has done excellent service.
No photos etc because I ran foul with the successors of the failed publishing  a few articles from Model mEngineer to help   younger model engineers published. I was threatened by the purchasers legal team and the result was surprising,( New)  Model Engineer owners  finally a sked me to assist- for free, who the copyright holders were.

I greet you well

Norman


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## SPOTTER (Dec 6, 2020)

VLERY 56
Congratulations you are very good, you have built lathe and engine, you are a master.


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## VALERY56 (Dec 7, 2020)

Hello, as promised, a few files of my rig: 1-forming the edges of the crankcase and boring the hole for the cylinder. Shanks D-3 mm for aligning the perpendicularity of the cylinder axis to the shaft axis. 2-drilling and boring the diffuser seat. 3 - turning the crankshaft crank and similarly - grinding the crank, the difference in diameters 9 ** and 2 * - the stroke of the engine piston. The choice of the type of fixtures was to maximize the use of only turning operations.


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## sniffipn (Dec 8, 2020)

VALERY56 said:


> Hello, as promised, a few files of my rig: 1-forming the edges of the crankcase and boring the hole for the cylinder. Shanks D-3 mm for aligning the perpendicularity of the cylinder axis to the shaft axis. 2-drilling and boring the diffuser seat. 3 - turning the crankshaft crank and similarly - grinding the crank, the difference in diameters 9 ** and 2 * - the stroke of the engine piston. The choice of the type of fixtures was to maximize the use of only turning operations.


thanks Valery.
neatly drawn. useful to see the part that's being machined, too. looking at the photos and drawing together, I'm better understanding,

how and why the part is secured to the faceplate.
how the part could be put into required position.
and visualising machining the part.

I'll have another look this evening.
curious about the feature (3mm diameter), that has a tolerance.
kind of you to share the detail.
useful ideas and ways of working

I have some rod and steel plate, to make a small faceplate. waiting a day or two, to see whether I can find some 2.5 or 3 inch bar, to slice a disc off.
David


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## VALERY56 (Dec 9, 2020)

sniffipn said:


> thanks Valery.
> neatly drawn. useful to see the part that's being machined, too. looking at the photos and drawing together, I'm better understanding,
> 
> how and why the part is secured to the faceplate.
> ...


Hello, I answer: with the help of a dial indicator, beating is controlled on limit switches with a diameter of 3 plus minus 0.002. It should not exceed 0.02 mm. This will ensure that the liner and shaft axes are square. The indicator is installed horizontally in the holder, and by turning the chuck with the faceplate 180 degrees, alternately check the runout of the shanks.


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## VALERY56 (Dec 12, 2020)

Hello, and at the end of my publication on a 0.2 cc diesel engine, I would like to present you with drawings of its parts. Tolerances and fits are not specified, and are performed with the highest possible accuracy in your conditions. For your information, the prototype (in the video) worked for about 2 hours without any noticeable deterioration in compression and startup. Good luck!


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## sniffipn (Dec 12, 2020)

VALERY56 said:


> Hello, and at the end of my publication on a 0.2 cc diesel engine, I would like to present you with drawings of its parts. Tolerances and fits are not specified, and are performed with the highest possible accuracy in your conditions. For your information, the prototype (in the video) worked for about 2 hours without any noticeable deterioration in compression and startup. Good luck!


kind of you to share the detailed drawings, Valery.

reminded me of the of the AE 0.5cc, 'hidden' under my desk. rather dusty after 30+ years - and compression screw a little rusty.






once progress made with other projects - and a simpler engine machined first - maybe there will be one machined to your drawings too.

there is a tin of fuel packed away, but sadly, i doubt much ether remains in it.
David


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## Peter Twissell (Dec 13, 2020)

Sniffipn,
A few weeks ago I rediscovered a PAW diesel engine which has been put away for some 40 years, along with a can of fuel.
After a quick clean up, the old engine fired up, using the old fuel!
I think if the can is properly sealed, the ether stays in solution.
Apologies for thread drift.


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## Mechanicboy (Dec 13, 2020)

sniffipn said:


> there is a tin of fuel packed away, but sadly, i doubt much ether remains in it.



If the fuel looks thinly liquid like water and smells of ether, then the fuel is fully usable. Seeing the fuel viscous, ether has evaporated away. A tight fuel jug holds ether for many years.


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