# How Do I Remove Soft Solder from Brass Surface?



## 4156df (Apr 20, 2010)

I've got a thread going on "Building Rudy's Steam Tractor", but thought I'd ask this here because the answers might be of more general interest.

Some time back, I built the steam box door for my tractor and used soft solder to fasten the faux hinges and lock down bolts. I wasn't concerned about the solder overflow at the time because I planned to paint the door and the paint would cover it. Since then I've changed my mind and would like to leave the door in brass. Does anyone have an idea on how I can remove the solder overflow without damaging or defacing the underlying surfaces? I'd like to keep the fine concentric tooling rings if possible.






Thanks for any ideas.
Dennis


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## Royal Viking (Apr 20, 2010)

I don't know how well this will work but you could try solder wick and a pencil soldering iron.


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## Noitoen (Apr 20, 2010)

I think you have to scrape it off. Looking at the picture, it shouldn't be so difficult.


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 20, 2010)

yes carefully scrape then wire bush a pencil line can keep it from running in the foirst place but looks like you did a neat job of it. 
Tin


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## cobra428 (Apr 20, 2010)

A fine bead blast will erase all of the solder.

Tony


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 20, 2010)

Nice question!
I'm going to be interested in seeing the successful results and how you got them.


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 20, 2010)

How about an Air Eraser Kit $20 could do the job!!
not the end of the world if it does not work but think it would .
Tin


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## radfordc (Apr 20, 2010)

Here is a homemade soda blaster: http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/


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## 4156df (Apr 20, 2010)

Thanks for the info, guys. The simple soda blaster is one I'll file for future reference. 

A couple of you mentioned scraping. Do I use an X-acto knife as a tool or is there more to it?

Tin, I've got one of those air erasers but only have aluminum oxide media. I was hesitant to use it because I thought it would wipe out the fine ring detail.  That may be something I have to live with. I'll borrow some glass bead media tomorrow and give it a try.

I think I'll make up a test sample and try both scraping & blasting and go from there. I'll report back.

Thanks,
Dennis


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## gbritnell (Apr 21, 2010)

Hi Dennis,
I lightly scrape with an Exacto knife with the tip blunted off a little. If you leave it sharp it will put scratches into the work. I then use a little stainless wire brush, the one with the bristles sticking out of the end for rotary tools, and mount it in a small pin vise or drill chuck. Lightly brush by hand and it will get rid of most of it. You won't be able to remove all of it without some very diligent work.
George


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## steamboatmodel (Apr 21, 2010)

Try the baking soda in the air eraser.
Regards,
Gerald.


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## jirik92 (Apr 23, 2010)

Try remove main part of soft solder by mechanical tool (knife, Deremel high speed mini grinder). Use smal sand blaster locally at next to remove rest of the solder. And normal sand blaster at the end to homogenize surface. Yhe surface will be clear but matt (sand blasted). It looks good too. It looks as true cast. 

And for future you should use silver solder. If you use a very small piece silver solder, it goes into gap after heating and after cleaning in 10% sulfur acid you will see nothing. Ehm, you will see perfect thing ;D.


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## Deanofid (Apr 23, 2010)

Dennis, if you decide to blast it, use good automotive masking tape to mask everything but the solder over flow. It will protect all your nice edges.
I've watched glass etching done this way, and it keeps the media from etching anyplace other than where the operator wanted it.

Dean


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