# HasBrouck #3



## Ed (Sep 14, 2013)

Has any one built the Has Brouck #3? I just started on one and would like to see if any one else has built one. Thanks. Ed


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 14, 2013)

Hi Ed,
You picked a great engine to build.  It was the first engine I built that ran successfully.  I built several versions of that engine, 2 cylinder, 1.25x and 1.5x scaleup, and vertical versions too.  They all run great on air or steam.  

Keep us posted on your progress and ask any questions you may have.  Several members here have built this engine too so there's a lot of experience around

Cheers,
Phil


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## Sshire (Sep 14, 2013)

Ed
Funny this came up. I just ordered the plan book from Village Press because my "engines to be built" list wasn't long enough.

I'll be following your build for sure.

Not to hijack the thread but...
Will a #10 run on a PMR Horizontal Boiler?


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 14, 2013)

Stan,
I built a #10 and having researched steam requirements a bit I would say performance would be unsatisfactory.  The #10 is an air (and steam) gobbler.  Other more experienced folks may want to chime in

Cheers,
Phil


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## RonGinger (Sep 14, 2013)

> Stan,
> I built a #10 and having researched steam requirements a bit I would say  performance would be unsatisfactory.  The #10 is an air (and steam)  gobbler.  Other more experienced folks may want to chime in



#10 has been used in many steamboats with good success. Maybe you have the valve timing less than optimum. The second from last page in the new book has a beautiful steamboat with a #10.


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 14, 2013)

Ron,
I think I was misunderstood.  The #10 is a very fine engine and runs very well for me on compressed air.  I was responding to Stan's question as to whether it could be run using a PM Research horizontal boiler.  Do you think that boiler is sufficient to power the #10?  

Phil


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## RonGinger (Sep 14, 2013)

NO, the #10 is really not a model, its full size stem launch engine. I dont think the PMR boiler would come close to running it.


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## Ed (Sep 15, 2013)

So far I have the base made with the hole cut for the flywheel. I made the base out of 3/8 " angle iron. I now have the cylinder block made ready for drilling.Speaking about the flywheel, I plan on using a cast iron counter weight that is 1" thick. To make the hub thickness of 13/8" I plan on silver soldering a piece to the hub area to make that thicker.Ed


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 15, 2013)

Ed,
What's the diameter of your flywheel going to be?  A 1" thick flywheel that's 4" diameter will be more than adequate for this engine.  Looking forward to your progress.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Ed (Sep 16, 2013)

I haven't got to the flywheel yet just doing some pre thinking.The plans call for a 6" flywheel with a 1 3/8" thick hub.


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 16, 2013)

Ed,
You'll have some leeway with the flywheel.  I have a 4" spoked cast iron flywheel on this engine with a hub thickness of 1".  I bought it from Martin's Models who makes very good castings.  It's this one:

http://www.martinmodel.com/MMPflywheels-subfiles/FW045-6S-S-RG-XXXX-CI.html

I've also made steel flywheels for my other versions of this engine.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Ed (Sep 21, 2013)

I just finished making the steam valve. I don't understand how the valve works. It looks like steam goes to both ends of the cylinder at the same time. Ed


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## Philjoe5 (Sep 21, 2013)

Ed,
The valve works this way.





In this picture it is shown in an approximately neutral position.  That is, air or steam entering the intake port hits the solid outer diameter of the valve and no action occurs.  Now rock the valve about 30 degrees in one direction and air is directed to one end of the cylinder through that passage you drilled from the end of the cylinder.  Rock the valve 30 degrees in the other direction, from neutral and air is directed to the other end of the cylinder.

Hope this helps

Phil


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## Ed (Sep 22, 2013)

Thanks I now see how it works.


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## Ed (Oct 7, 2013)

Pictures of the parts that I've made so far.


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## Ed (Oct 7, 2013)

Pictures of how I held the guide and cap together to be drilled.


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## Philjoe5 (Oct 7, 2013)

Very nice work Ed.  I like how you finished the valve rocker arm.  Looks like you've gotten pretty far along and will soon have a runner!

Cheers,
Phil


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## Ed (Oct 15, 2013)

These pictures show how I machined the openings in the guide after the fact.I used a 3/16 drill in the corners then a 3/16 mill to cut between the holes.


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## Ed (Oct 15, 2013)

Mill Picture


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## Philjoe5 (Oct 15, 2013)

That's a good looking crosshead guide nicely done

Cheers,
Phil


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## Ed (Nov 6, 2013)

More pictures of the parts made.Ed


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## Ed (Nov 6, 2013)

Try picture again. Ed


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 6, 2013)

Looks good Ed.  Nice work on the eccentric strap.  That's a good challenge for someone starting out.  You'll have a runner soon.

Cheers,
Phil


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## deverett (Nov 7, 2013)

Ed

Just read this topic.

Did you know there is a Yahoo group for Hasbrouck engines?
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/HasBrouckEngines/

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## RonGinger (Nov 7, 2013)

Do you know Village Press has released a book with the plans for all 10 of Rays engines? These are the full  plan sets, with every part detailed, just like the paper plans Ray used to sell.

https://secure.villagepress.com/store/items/detail/item/2612


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## Ed (Nov 8, 2013)

I belong to the yahoo HasBrouck group and I am using the book to build the #3 engine. Thanks for the good info. Ed


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## Ed (Nov 20, 2013)

this is how I made the flywheel. I used a 1" thick counterweight from a tractor. Cut the extra off with a saw,then used a 4 jaw chuck changer to a 3 jaw.changed to a mill to drill the holes.


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## Ed (Nov 20, 2013)

oops wrong pictures.I just love computers. Try again.
This is how I made the flywheel. I used a 1" thick counterweight from a tractor. Cut the extra off with a saw,then used a 4 jaw chuck changer to a 3 jaw.changed to a mill to drill the holes.Ed


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## Ed (Nov 20, 2013)

All parts are done. Now to put it together.


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 20, 2013)

Looks good Ed.  Seems like you got the heavy stuff done, so you're pretty close to a runner.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Barnacle (Nov 20, 2013)

Great job Ed can't wait to see it all assembled!!!


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## Ed (Nov 26, 2013)

My engine is put together how do you time the valve?There are 2 adjustments the eccentric and the screw adjustment at the valve end. Any help would help. Thanks Ed


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 26, 2013)

Ed,
In post #13, there is a picture of the valve.  As it appears, the full  outside diameter of the valve is on top.  That is approximately the  position you want the valve in at either TDC or BDC.  That is, at TDC or  BDC you don't want any air to enter the cylinder in either side.  Then,  adjust the eccentric so that the valve rocks left and right in equal  amounts.  

An easy way to see what the valve is doing is to mark the end of the valve with a black marker and watch it rock back and forth as you turn the engine over.

Looking forward to your success

Cheers,
Phil


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## Ed (Jan 12, 2014)

Finished my #3. Runs very good and I'm happy with the build.How on to the next project. Ed


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## Ed (Jan 12, 2014)

PS Thanks for all the help. That is what makes this group fun. Ed


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## toolznthings (Jan 12, 2014)

I just posted pictures of my #3 yesterday. Take a look and let me know what you think. Great running engine for my first build.


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 12, 2014)

Very nice looking engine Ed, congratulations

Cheers,
Phil


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## toolznthings (Jan 12, 2014)

Hi,

What did you use for the black color on your engine parts ? Looks great !


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## Philjoe5 (Jan 12, 2014)

Hi Toolznthings,

Where did you post pics of your engine?  I see it in your avatar but can't find your post.

Cheers,
Phil


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## toolznthings (Jan 12, 2014)

Hello,

Posted under " engines " section. ( newbie here on posting )

Brian


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