# Jet 9x20 + Treadmill motor



## HYTECH (Oct 24, 2009)

Just Got my hands on a Weslo Cadence 4350 Treadmill!. Well I started taking it apart and the motor was bigger than any treadmill motor I have seen. It is as big as the AC motor on my lathe now. I was disapointed that it is only rated at 1HP but my lathe motor is only rated at 3/4HP so i'll try this one just to see. 

 When it came time to measure and figure out how to mount this motor I found out this is almost a direct replacement ;D The mounting plate has the same hole spacing, the shaft length mesured from the mounting hole is the same, and The shaft hight from the mounting plate is the same. All I need to do is machine 36mm of the shaft down to 14mm and bolt it up. Then build a shield to keep the chips out.

Should get this together in a few days and will post more pics. 

I have a plan on using start and stop buttons on the original treadmill speed controller so I don't have to readjust the speed after every stop. I'll put another pot in line with the speed pot between the low side and adjust it so when the speed pot is all the way down it will not be off just very slow. To stop it the Stop button is connected where the treadmill key was that shuts it down if you fall. To restart it I will have the start button connected between the W terminal and the L terminal pulling the speed signal low when pressed making the controller think you turned the speed dial all the way down and when you let up on the button the lathe will run at the speed the pot was set at. Will post pics of this to when I get at this point.


Jasen


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## HYTECH (Nov 14, 2009)

Ok slow going on this one. I got the motor shaft turned down keyway cut and pulley mounted. For now I am covering the open frame of the motor with aluminium tape. I will use something better if this 1HP motor works good. The holes drilled at each end of the motor are for cooling. I plan on using some kind of duct and small fan to force air into the back of the motor pics on that later


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## HYTECH (Nov 14, 2009)

I have mounted the controller in a box with a cooling fan and used a cable assembly and connector from a power wheel chair to connect it to the lathe. The connector is mounted to the rear of the panel that the original power cable went in I was able to use the original switch for power and to change direction of the motor. I'll mount the control box on the wall behind the lathe and figured I could mount the front panel / gear chart from the lathe on the box just for a place to put it.

 Next up will be the front control panel with a tachometer, pot, start, and stop buttons. I have it drawn up with CamBam and plan on CNCing it. Just need to pick up some sheetmetal. To Be Continued----->>>>


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## HYTECH (Nov 14, 2009)

a few more


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## Twmaster (Nov 14, 2009)

Sweet!

If I ever get off my lazy butt I need to get about putting the two DC treadmill motors/speed controls I have into service.


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## HYTECH (Feb 6, 2010)

Wow This project was going slow! I finally put the control panel together. It consists of a speed pot, Two arcade buttons for Start and Stop, and a cheap digital automotive style Tachometer. I took a Camshaft position sensor from a Hyundai Sonata and mounted it to read the spindle rpm then wired it to the tach. I mounted the controller on the wall behind the lathe. I put it all together and it's finally done. here's a few more pics.

Jasen


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## HYTECH (Feb 6, 2010)

4 at a time


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## HYTECH (Feb 6, 2010)

..........


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## 1hand (Feb 6, 2010)

Pretty sweet man. :big: Wish my 9x20 was done up like that.

Matt


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## SAM in LA (Feb 6, 2010)

Jasen,

What a clean, professional looking installation.

I like the way you did the tach.

I bought a handheld tach that has a wheel that you touch to the spinning part.

SAM


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## Twmaster (Feb 12, 2010)

Neat job.

Could you provide a parts list and schematic for that home-brew tach?


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## Selexus (Feb 14, 2010)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> Neat job.
> 
> Could you provide a parts list and schematic for that home-brew tach?



I second that request. Please .


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## HYTECH (Feb 14, 2010)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> Neat job.
> 
> Could you provide a parts list and schematic for that home-brew tach?



 Well any automotive tach would work digital is better. The tach I used I got from ebay for $12.00. The sensor is a camshaft position sensor from a 2002 hyundai sonata v6. you could use almost any automotive 3 wire hall effects sensor. supply 12v and a ground then hook the signal wire from the sensor to the green wire on the tach. if the tach is set to 4cyl you will need two pulses per rev. 6cyl would be 3 and 8cyl would be 4. You could use bolts screwed into a shaft or gear no need for magnets an automotive hall sensor pics up the presents of ferrous metals. it usually reads off of a dowel pin or gear teeth.


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