# Mery 6-stroke kit.



## Jack3M

Hey all,
Saw one of these at the Great American Steam Up in Brooks Oregon last summer and fell in love with it.  Apparently it is one of the more rare, but highly spoken of.  Purple (powder coat???) Apparently the builder got lucky and some high falutin' pinstriper did the pinstriping on it.  It really is a gorgeous machine.  The only original that still runs was also there and got to see that in operation too.  I hope to even replicate the cooling system.

This is for now, a sideline, fill in project until the one ahead of it is completed.  This way when one project is held up it will be possible to work on another and chill the brain cells as needed.  Also we have another member starting on one also and we have been in contact.  I welcome interaction, but please lets stay on the given topic and questions.  There is another build out there by a member here,   
http://www.teqknow.com/Shop/Mery.html 
That one is done by someone who knows their pooh, I am a wannabe machinist so it might be of interest to watch me stumble along.

First order of business is to get the 60 sheets of drawings (8.5x11) into a notebook in the protective plastic sleeves.  Learned about using sleeves on another project and in the oily dirty environment they are just awesome.  Additionally there are a few sheets where it will be necessary to refer back and forth.  With greasy fingers this quickly soils good drawings.  Plus this way they can be kept in order in a 3-ring binder.  Frankly for this type of project I prefer the smaller sheets over huge plan sets.  (Actually turning one set into 8.5x11 sheets for a traction engine in my spare moments.)

If anyone is interested, my casting is #361


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## Jack3M

Though not the Mery, a task necessary to learn before working on the Mery.  That task/skill is cutting your own gears.  On a different project, a steam donkey, the gears necessary (according to plans) would have cost almost $250....plus shipping.  NOT.  So, cast up some gear blanks, two were 4.5 inches, one one one inch diameter, 22 and 90 teeth.  Through several errors, and making my own gear hob, I learned the skill.  How cool


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## Philipintexas

I built this engine about 15 years ago with castings from Martin. Can’t say enough good about his castings. Not the easiest to complete but it runs well on propane. I added my own water pump running off a second eccentric and it makes a good water-heater. I was surprised at the amount of heat it produces. I didn’t make a cooling system, just a large reservoir as it heats the water quickly.  The most amazing thing is the size of the exhaust hole(s), about the size of a small pencil-lead and it would not run on a larger hole..?? Very odd since the engine does an exhaust and then a second intake/exhaust through those tiny holes.
Another idiosyncrasy is the difficulty in sealing the two intake-valve “Boxes”. Combustion takes place in them before igniting the cylinder so the pressure tends to blow gaskets at the plug cover. Leave as much sealing surface as possible...


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## Jack3M

Thank you for the advice.  Did you try metal gaskets on the combustion chamber?


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## Philipintexas

I finally found some gasket material that stood up to the pressure. It’s just the small sealing area that presents a problem.


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## Jack3M

Well, am beginning.  I may have to farm out the work on the main portion due to my machinery not being big enough.  Looking at ways to do this on the lathe, but even that is doubtful at this point.  It is possible to true the base, just none of the boring it looks like to me.


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## Jack3M

After a long discussion with a retired machinist friend of mine, it sounds like if I take it really slow and easy with modifications to tooling this can be done.  Building a holding jig now for the lathe slide.  Guess I should get a photo or two. 

So far have made the base parallel to the C/L.   This was done by smoothing down the parting line on the top of the  body.  Indicated this out using shims.  Then trued up the 3 locators provided by Martin Models in the casting.  In turn then it could be flipped over and the bases trued to the horizontal to the model centerline thru the crank and piston.... 

Measuring for the height to the center of the crankshaft by the drawing numbers puts the C/L off low by 1 /4 inch or so.  Taking that much off the bases would destroy them so that value in the drawings will have to be changed to get true center.

The jig was marked to the center of the lathe using a piece of stock turned to a point and compared to the tailstock center for verification.  The base was drilled at it's mount locations and them bolted to the jig which was squared prior.  ( 2.5" thick aluminum)

Still need to finish the hold down points in the jig,  then modify the slide to accept a couple M8 bolts for balanced tie downs for those points in the jig (4).  This concept will use two existing M8 holes so will make these parallel with the existing.  Hopefully I can use the tie downs I have and don't have to make those too.  I will try to get some photos tomorrow.


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## Jack3M

Sure am tired this evening.  All that thinkin' I guess.  Had to do other things this morning, like get a hunk of granite to get a flat surface.  That helped me figure out the height of the C/L. 

Then spent a great deal of time on the jig.  Of course the new bolts (Hillman Fasteners) stripped out...in aluminum right away and had to get replacements.  Milled out the slots in the big chunk and using 3 tie down setups got that working, indicated out, and put the main base on the jig.  Double checked height related to C/L and that was still okay.

Took it all down and made the boring bar, which I needed the lathe for.  I am not sure this will be solid enough, using 3/4 tool steel and boring head.  The bar itself got a carbide insert, easier to change an insert than sharpen tools  Considering just waiting and using a bigger diameter bar, like 1.125 dia.

Indicated out the boring bar head as mine is R-8.  It fit great in the 4-jaw without issue.

As promised, pictures, most are the tiedown setup, some showing the methods to true things up.


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## Jack3M

So I spent hours yesterday skimming.  Had to take enough cut to prevent chatter.  Was interesting how speed of travel and depth of cut were very independent of each other.  After about 40 passes the smoothest finish was acheived.  I stopped about 0.075 from finished diameter waiting on an internal measuring tool to arrive.  So at this point I don' know if I have a taper or not.  Thinkin on how this is working, I should have the same amount of flex all along the cut, not just at one end.  We shall see.  

I am going to have to pull off for a few days to work on a house remodel issue that needs preparation for contractors

 .


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## Jack3M

I think I would like to include a statement of lack of knowledge.  I am just going at it here.  No special training, not a machinist, it's all play to me and I surely am doing some things incorrectly.  What I show is just my approach and does not mean it is the correct way to do things.  It is just a lifetime of scale modeling from plastic kits as a kid to scratch building static steam engine replicas to draw from.  (It is rare I do a kit now, but this kit was just too kool to pass up and is just like scratch building except I don't have to draw up the plugs and cast the parts and they do much better castings than I do.)


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## Jack3M

Having issue with tolerance.  There is no way I have tools accurate enough to measure inside diameter to within .0005". 

First, I see no need for that tolerance in the cross slide area, and the front part I can measure more accurately which is what I believe is the important part as the cylinder mates there.  I can probably get .001 there.  We are talking 1.5 inches diameter.

My inside measuring is giving me variations of .001-.002".  Taking several measurements and then averaging, throwing out high and lows.  Anybody got 2 cents worth of opinion on this?


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## Jack3M

Well, I just settled for 1.5.  The end shown in the photos is now faced and the recess for the cylinder assembly created.  Took my face mill and used the 4 jaw.  Piece of cake.  Plus tore up the kitchen some, with more today.  My body can only take so much of that really physical stuff at a time.  So between all, this project gets some attention.  

As far as the crosshead section, that will get honed after the oiler is tapped and drilled, within a thou there.


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## Joe

Jack3M said:


> Having issue with tolerance.  There is no way I have tools accurate enough to measure inside diameter to within .0005".
> 
> First, I see no need for that tolerance in the cross slide area, and the front part I can measure more accurately which is what I believe is the important part as the cylinder mates there.  I can probably get .001 there.  We are talking 1.5 inches diameter.
> 
> My inside measuring is giving me variations of .001-.002".  Taking several measurements and then averaging, throwing out high and lows.  Anybody got 2 cents worth of opinion on this?




Only worth what you pay for it but could you turn a gauge pin to the 1/2 thou tolerance and use that ?

JG


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## Jack3M

Joe said:


> Only worth what you pay for it but could you turn a gauge pin to the 1/2 thou tolerance and use that ?
> 
> JG


That is close to what I did, not a gauge pin but steel that was dead on OD.  When it was difficult to pass but passed I called that good enough.  Again, I don't think the clearance is that important until you get to the mounting end....that is critical, but that is not difficult to get good measurement and slip the gauge in.


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## Jack3M

Caught up on kitchen waiting on contractors to do their thing for awhile so get some time to play.  Got the hole for the gear axle done.  Drilled from one side only, fearing walking, but not so.  Used a cobalt bit, went slow and drilled like I was working in brass, just pecking.  Came thru straight so something is lined up right I guess.


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## Jack3M

Then with great trepidation the area at 45 degrees where the bearing cap goes was cleaned up to get the whole 45 degree.  By using the previously measured and punched location dots for CL of the crankshaft was used to score a line across both, these too also got a punch mark so the calipers would have a definite spot to measure from and marked the end edges which stick up and prevent end-to-end movement of the caps.  I could be +/- a degree here, but don't think it will be much issue if the rest fits and later drilling is true.  Taking a break now, but working on the bearing cap right now, maybe more photos later....


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## Jack3M

Where am I?   Bearing caps.  Straightforward mill working.  




Then had to stop to make a plug to mold some bronze for the bearings.  Soft solder and bronze don't like each other, even with flux.  But they are soldered and ready to hit the lathe.  Will do the outside to dimension, and several thousanths undersize for the hole for later line bore.


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## Jack3M

Well bronze doesn't work well, will not solder together with plumbing solder and don't want to use silver solder, so working on brass now, at least it soldered.


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## Jack3M

Brass worked like a charm.  Still soldered together.  After boring the base, drilling a combination oiler and locator pin hole, it should be good to go.


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## Jack3M

Not much to say,  Got it all reamed and the shaft turns glassy smooth with fingertips.  Halves separated and solder wiped off while still hot, recheck shaft after all said and done.  The first photo is how I kept the bearings tight while drilling.


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## Jack3M

Had moments here and there, got the cast aluminum base leveled.  

Spent probably 2 hours trying to get the cylinder indicated in.  Never had such a difficult time, but finally got it.  Using a 1 1/4" tool steel bar that got a carbide bit Silver Soldered to it.  Working well.  I still have motion in my cross slide and cannot get it out.  Worked for hours on this and still have 100 thou or so to take off.  The tolerance is 0.0000+ and 0.0005 -  Wow. The sleeve is a temperature fit.  Freeze one and heat the other.  They install countertops tomorrow so won't get squat done.


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## Jack3M

Oops forgot photos


 It is slow going as to reduce flexion I can only take a .001 cut per run, very slow going, and often I do twice at the same setting to avoid highs and lows.


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## Jack3M

broke my hand when disposal fell on it no telling how long till i can work on it


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## propclock

Probably going to get negativity on this one, Locktite allows you to have .001
clearance. I admire all those that shrink/press fit, but when you are done 
you get to bore/hone it again! because after the stress , The I.D. is no longer the 
same. Again I love a perfect fit, but chemicals have improved this hobby, IMO.
Thanks to the military. Over.


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## Jack3M

I am not adverse to modern technology and "tools" Thanks for thr reminder.  BUT my hand is going to really resttrict progress for a while.


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## Jack3M

The kitchen is done.  Finger still in a splint to prevent having displacement and thusly surgery.  Already stiff enough.  Got two fractures in one bone.  Pain pretty well under control unless I do something stupid, like jam it into something.  

Anyhow I had to come back to see how deep I was cutting per pass.  Thinking on trying to get some done on this.  The kitchen looks great and the garbage disposal which fell on my hand to do the damage has been tossed for such a serious infraction.    Hope to post real stuff soon....


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## Jack3M

Well It is bored.  It is not off center it is angle of camera.  Used gauge blocks made from brass, with the final one a go-no-go of .001".  Didn't even catch the finger


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## Jack3M

Today the sleeve was installed in the cylinder and began boring that.  Kind of a make sure you do some things first section, as in the water jacket fittings.  That is what is showing in the photo with the drill bit.

Tried the hot cold thing and the cylinder got suck half way and ended up pressing the whole shebang together.  This allows enough overhang on either end to get a good grip for further work until the ends are finished up which comes after boring.   There are 4 holes that need drilled before final boring to size, two exhaust and two intake ports that go thru into the cylinder.


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## Jack3M

Boring can be boring....pun intended.  Think I learned something and would like comments.  The big boring bar was too large to start boring the sleeve with so made one out of 3/4 cold rolled steel.  Nothing fancy, just wanted to get to the point I could use the bigger one for less flexion.  Seems it did a crap job and I went back to the 3/4 and got everything sweet again.  My assumption is that the flexion allowed will also stop resonance which I have quite bad on the other bar, made from O1 tool steel.  We are talking horrid finish versus sweet finish taking the same amount and same speed....though I did try different speeds to see if it would stop the resonance.  
Pulled the whole shebang off to drill the holes when I got within 10 thou.  Stopped as it was uncomfortably hot in the garage, looking for record heat next 2 days I hear.


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## Jack3M

Welllllll, I goofed up.  Made a really stupid mistake and not sure how I got my mind set on the wrong internal diameter, but I did, then took it out of the lathe and cut off the ends.....OH NO.  Well needless to say, not possible to get true the whole length, so Gary Martin saved me with an in stock sleeve.  Pressed out the old one and ran over there way early this morning...an hour each way....trying to beat the Portland morning rush on a Friday.
Additionally, while between stuff, got the cream color ordered, arrived, and powder coated that inside part of the base.  Also tried two of my red colors and still not sure which I like best.


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## Jack3M

Thinkin' maybe I jumped over some steps in describing this process of the cylinder sleeve.  First, to get an average indicated center taking the best of both inner and outer to get as true of run as possible.  Then made aluminum 'plug' to fit in the end of the cylinder to keep things from moving while working on the outside of the sleeve, as can be seen in this photo.  Now getting this an average of true was very time consuming.


Since the powder coat stuff was sorta out and about, played with my reds to get the color wanted, a candy red metal flake with depth.  Took 3 powders to achieve this.  First had tried to two colors of red with just them and their process.  Not the colors I wanted, one was close.  Got to thinking and tried a red base coat, followed by a red transparent coat, followed with a clear.


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## Jack3M

Forgot to mention since I plan on pressing the sleeve in again, going to taper one end .002" over 1" to help get a straight start.


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## MrMetric

I really appreciate your documenting the experiences while building the Mery.  I picked one up recently, as you know from our personal chat.  The kit didn't come with plans, so that is the first order of business that needs to be worked out, but I'm definitely following your progress in the interim.


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## Jack3M

Interesting few days.  Bunches of had to do stuff, and when I pressed in the sleeve again, dang if the cylinder didn't crack.  Guess I needed to heat it anyhow....DUH.  Oh well, went back and got another from Gary.  Nice guy, didn't even make me feel like the idiot I am.  So between all the other crud that had to  be done, got they cylinder bored, heated the cylinder and froze the sleeve, and with the tapered end, it literally fell into place and locked. Needed to press it for another  1/8 inch to get my marks.  Of course back to boring and boring and boring and this time I got the correct internal measurement.  
While waiting on each pass, got to messin' with the powder coat and did the main body.  Boy is it shiny.  But, no matter how hard I tried, there still were flecks of red that got in the white, and redoing the white only made it worse, so I think paint will be the only resolution, I know I don't want to mask it any more, what a task.


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## Jack3M

No photos today, not much to see, but quite a bit to say.  The combined height of the rotory table with 4 jaw and the part, and a drill chuck totally eliminated my ability to accurately lay out holes in my cheap drill press which did have enough distance, unlike my mill, but could not dial in the circles of 2" and 2.125 on the ends of the cylinder assembly.
So, a friend of mine bailed me out with his mill, there was just enough room to drill the holes.  Had to take my rotory table there as his is way too big and already had the 4 jaw trammed on mine.  He had ER40 collet set and that gave us plenty of room to drill the holes.
Therefore this is an important thing to note about this kit.  
Now, while doing this, knowing the base will be very difficult to drill the holes in each end got a template made from card stock, by locating before drilling and drilling thru the templates as the pilot holes for the tapped lugs were done.


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## Jack3M

First I should have told ya'll which mill I have....a grizzly 704

Moving along; tapped the holes, I chose M3, just because I prefer metric and that is my tooling for that stuff.  Used the drill press to assure straight starts.  That completed this part with the exception of cutting off the cylinder ends, and the holes for the exhaust and explosion chamber mounts which I do at the same time for accuracy of layout.  As far as cutting the ends off, not only will the cut end get support with a plug in that end with the tailstock.  More than anything though, delaying for a indexable parting tool to arrive, carbide cuts cast so sweetly.

Since all the holes are drilled and having the ends of the cylinder to grasp and make it easy to PC(powder coat) this which was completed.  Intermittently have been working on the stuffing box, slip fit in base, and cylinder end  is heat and fit which will wait until the ends are cut off.  Also the brass packing fitting is completed, no photos...forgot.  This is final fitted AFTER the shrink fit for the stuffing box so that the bolts for the fitting are vertical after assembly.


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## Jack3M

Correction, M4 not M3


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## Jack3M

Moving along.  Piston was simple turning job.

The packing gland had what appears to be an oil hole, but checking ahead, there is minimal access for this.  Did it anyhow.


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## Jack3M

This part is more difficult.  Gary had stated and in his documentation package it is also mentioned to add weight to either a wheel or the crank.  I thought it was just fore more mass, but a friend pointed out it is a balance thing.  Therefore, the crank will be modified.  Have seen folks do a one piece turning.  As far as I am concerned it is too much metal waste.  Previously I have made crank by silver soldering the parts together.

My friend told me to make a dummy and make that balance on the center of the crankshaft to offset the end with the con rod.  This is currently what is being worked on.  Couldn't find the right thickness in the scrap bin at the metal place so opted to use some 3/4 and bring it down to the thickness dimension.  Photos are of the dummy including the balance point./


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## Jack3M

Got some of the work done


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## PhilL

Hello Jack3M!!
Great job on your Mery.  Mine is the one you refered to in the beginning, http://www.teqknow.com/Shop/Mery.html.  I didn't see this thread until I got todays digest in email.
There are many places where you need to plan several steps ahead but it looks like you're doing perfectly with that.  
FYI: I think I painted mine 4 times, never liking the results I was getting.  I haven't done powder coat on my engines but I'm watching with great interest.
Did you get a copy of the Mery Newsletters?  They have some really good info for the build and runs.  Also history of the process the group used building the model.

Keep up the great work!

PhilL


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## Jack3M

Hi Phil,
Thanks for the compliment, unsure if folks think I am a fool or know what I am doing.  In reality, I am neither.  I am starting to research ignition system, links appreciated (And knowledge).  

My climate is so wet I need to get rustables covered as soon as possible, so as soon as I get the part where I won't mess it up in vices or can use wood to prevent chipping.  Powder coat is great because you can use harsh cleaners like carb cleaner and it won't touch it.  It is only expensive to get started.  You need a gun better than HF sells, compressor, toaster oven or better (dedicated) and the powders.  Powders from Prismatic Powders run 10-20 per pound.  A pound goes a very long way. Mixing and matching solids and transparents is cool.  So once set up, it is way cheaper than paint to put a thick coat on anything that can tolerate 400 degrees for a half hour.  The Mery is a solid, transparent, and finally a special clear for the solid.   

I have been through your site over and over, the best one I know of out there, adapting to my smaller mill.
I am not aware of the Mery Newsletters?
Jack


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## Jack3M

Measured out where the grooves for the woodruff keys go and cut them.  May, but probably not get to soldering it a


 ll up today.


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## Jack3M

Well wife (who is on vacation this week) went off on a shopping trip so it got soldered together.


Used a pair of spacers to maintain the space between each lug and the woodruff key slot needs to be 90 degrees to the rod end.

Then of course cleanup the part which is still in process.


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## Jack3M

Well crud, didn't expect it to be out of line and was off .001, which when I turned it on the lathe to clean off the solder, it took metal off the shaft and screwed up my tolerance.  Had to go get more drill rod.  Next time I solder from the inside as that gets cut and gound off.  The rod end is okay, and will try to run another shaft thru with that still attached, see just how true is still is or isn't?  Grrrr.


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## PhilL

You don’t want to turn it from bar stock?  All that heat is always going to make stuff move.  
Did you get my email?


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## Jack3M

No I did not, and tho not done, it is straight.  Fits well, turns easily.  Still cleaning up and polishing to go.


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## Jack3M

Hope all is well with everyone.  Crank finished, cleaned up and powder coated.  Did the piston rings today too.  
Crank turns nicely by hand, freely, getting about one full turn with a minor 'flip' on the shaft.  Now, I am going to put the flywheel and the belt pulley on the same shaft which puts the long side to the right instead of left as shown in some of the plan steps.  AND the keyway leads the crank by 90 degrees so it makes a difference when you assemble.  Rotation looking from right side into the engine is CCW


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## Jack3M

POWDER COAT IS NOT IMPERVIOUS TO CARB CLEANER/LACQUER THINNER.  Oops


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## Jack3M

Not sure how to do the flywheel at this point.  Researching ways to do it on the mill as it is too big for the lathe(10.5).  Several ideas for mill are feasible, just not sure which is going to work or not.  Cannot use a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, none fit the flywheel that will fit on the rotary table.  So thinking time, research time, trials time.  Of course I could mount it to the shaft of the mill after there is a true center hole.  Getting this dialed in is difficult, I can already tell there is a difference in spoke to table height for individual spokes, not much, thousandths, but enough to make a difference .  Don't have any pals with larger lathe.  Local shops are weeks out and they really don't want piecemeal.  Just need to find the way.


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## Jack3M

Not having success with this.  Let me back up, 5" rotory table.  Centered to spindle of mill and DRO zeroed for later.  I have a dial indicator in the mill spindle for the center hub of the flywheel.  I have a dial indicator on the outer ring on the "up" side.  Now we all know that the flywheel isn't perfect.

I can get the center hub to .0025 +/-.  But the outer ring will not come into play, it is at a minimum changing height to table by .040+ .  I am not able to tell if the flywheel just has a low spot or the whole thing is off to one side. 

Initially I was using 1/2" scrap blocks to hold the wheel up off the table as there are protrusions that must stay.  So turned down a piece of 4"pipe to 1/2" and used that as a trial.  It miked out to .0005 so it was really close.  Same problem.  It also moves as I tighten down the flywheel so just trying to get solid without deforming.  That does not really seem to effect the side of the wheel in question and the drop off is very quick and also the return to the high is very quick, a good 20 thou at either end.

I need suggestions, advice, and ideas please.


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## PhilL

I’m trying to picture this.  What are you sitting the flywheel on?  The spokes?  And the height of the rim is varying .02?  The finished thickness should have ample to get that cleaned up.  
Maybe clamp the flywheel to the mill table resting on the rim.  Then take very lite cuts to get reference points on the spokes.  Then use them to rest on your 4” pipe.  The rim will be true then.  Once it’s all done, you can take a file and blend the flats on the spokes and they go away.
Then again, I may have totally misunderstood your problem.
Maybe a picture?


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## MrMetric

I'm struggling with the same thing... If Jack had a lathe of sufficient swing, he would bore the shaft and then true up the wheel, right?  I think he is having problems coming up with a clamping arrangement so he can hold the wheel to a rotary table.  OK... the spokes will vary and there will be warpage in the wheel.  I understand that.  But there would be no perfect solution to that.  You'd have to (effectively) clamp the wheel down such that it would be concentric on the rotary table (i.e the bore).  At that point, he'd need to shim the different parts of the wheel so that he could mill them.  There would be no formula for that.  It would be all trial and error.... But he is right that he can't deflect the wheel when clamping it.  The wheel would simple spring back when it was releasedd.

I too must be missing something.  I'm quite certain that Jack is more adept than I, frankly!


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## Jack3M

Unfortunately I am not good at describing something like this.  Though, I think I have it.
The part is clamped to the rotory table.  It is supported on the spokes by the 4" diameter spacer.  
The center hub (best I can get with bumps and such on the hub...tho filed) is .0025 +/- so a total of .005.  I find this acceptable as a start.
The outer ring (side) is where I have this huge discrepancy.  After literally hours of checking and trying I figured out it is a low spot between two spokes on one side only.  Measuring from the main table to the bottom side of the outer flywheel there is only a .002 difference in a full circle.  Therefore it is a low spot on the flywheel.
Currently am waiting for an ER40 chuck so I am sure the hole in the center is perfect.  I do not plan on milling either side of the wheel, only the center hub and the very outer diameter of the flywheel.

Now another problem I am having is the cylinder assembly got messed up and had to recoat with the color, only now I am getting burst bubbles that are not flattening out.  Had called Prismatic Powders but with holiday no good response yet.  This is 3 times same problem.


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## Jack3M

Forgot the photo or it didn't upload apparently.


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## MrMetric

Though perhaps not germane to your particular issue at hand, it strikes me that one of the fundamental problems with clamping here is providing support while not flexing the part. You can do a lot of trial and error shim work or possibly go down a casting approach.  Cerrobend, Roto, or even epoxy (with a release compound) may be able to fill the gaps between a steel/aluminum base and the part.  Although those may be soft, with enough surface area, it might not matter much.

I'm just spit balling here; I've not tried this type of technique before because I haven't really run into the problem (novice engine maker), but using sand bags and such in metal forming isn't anything new.  This is kind of a variation of the same thing.

What this would *not* do is address reference problems.  It would only enhance the ability to hold the wheel to the rotary table.... Anyhow, just a thought.


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## Jack3M

Yes, thank you for your thoughts.  By using the 4" diameter pipe piece, I am supporting under the spokes evenly and clamping as close to as perfectly over the pipe section.  Thusly, I don't get any change if I push on the outer wheel at one spoke or another. ..

Still looking at it, thinking on what could be wrong and meanwhile working on the belt pulley between attempts to get the powdercoat to work on this one part, 3 recoats now with teensy bubbles at one end in a "show" spot.


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## MrMetric

OK.  For some reason, I got it into my head that part of the problem was that you were having a difficult time clamping the wheel down due, in part, to deflection.  Don't ask me where I got that.

As for the powder coating... I've never used that form of "painting" so I don't think I can add to your comments there, except for one thing... It seems to me that the bubble could be caused by impurities that result in contamination?


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## Jack3M

These tiny bubbles show in approximately the same area.  Just not sure.  At this point waiting for Prismatic Powders engineer to get back to me, customer support went to them because they didn't know what to do or why.  

As I look at the drawings for the flywheel, I may have to do some milling for appearance/detail/etc.  It is almost a quarter inch over thickness in width so there is plenty and hoping my crankshaft modification will compensate.


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## Jack3M

The belt pulley polished out well


and started on the flywheel


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## PhilL

Sorry, was on vaca last week and interwebs was not a priority.
That pulley did come out nice.
The picture is what I thought you were describing.
Remember to think ahead...  What will you use to reference when you flip the flywheel over so you are true to the first surface?


----------



## Jack3M

I was planning on using an arbor, but good point that I had not considered.


----------



## Jack3M

came out good


----------



## PhilL

OOOooooo  I like that!!  You left the inside of the flywheel pollished instead of painting it.  
Nice


----------



## Jack3M

Well.  Deep subject, right? Lots to discuss.  First though, I need to shout out to Gary Martin, who reached out to me on the setup for the flywheel yesterday.  He took the time to try and post here and had problems, so he emailed me to contact him.

Unfortunately, it was too late, I already was the bull in then china shop and well, screwed up.  I did not get the hole centered.  This was not noticed until AFTER getting the outer diameter true and putting on the mill with an arbor to polish it.  It was probably off .05-.1.  Thusly, the last few days have been spent boring the hole out and putting in a heat fit plug to again drill out along with powder coating.

Seems the proper way is to (according to Gary) file down the parting line at the center of the spokes.  Indicate off of this to get center....I went off the hub.  Gary also mentioned a couple more things.   Wax the piece and use bondo to make it lay flat.  Only  rest on on 3 spokes, not all  the spokes.....

So now I sit with this wondering how the heck to indicate after I already did the outer ring with a different center.  Will that be off like it was before. Lost lots of sleep over this last night.  Will be calling Gary again today because I had distractions during our call and did not think of questions.....So, Gary, expect another call.

Moving along to the powder coat issues.  Seems that soaking in Phosphoric acid and lacquer thinner, the cast iron absorbs.  Prismatic Powders Engineer suggested a cook at 450 degrees for an hour before any powder.  This was done, and there were great results. Powder coat problem over.

Now, the reason I had so much dang trouble making the tight tolerance plug for the flywheel, is that the metal expands when it gets hot and my measurements when hot were fine, and when cooled too little.  Once that was figured out, the plug was lathed down to within .0015 and allowed to cool before final sanding down to exact size for the cold/hot fit.  Was milling the end down to the flywheel hub and had a gear fail in the mill.(this fails frequently and I keep spare gear on hand, so will be back in business later today unless I go fishing.

So now how do I indicate to get true center if it is already off on the outer rim?  The mill table will not give me enough in the Y axis to indicate off the outer ring which has been milled from an incorrect center.  Grrrr.


----------



## marvin hedberg

this is the type of indicator holder that i have used for 40+ years.
it clamps on the OD of the quill,   buy or make to suit your mill.
the rod can be made any length for larger diameters.
https://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tool...icator+holder&qid=1562940700&s=gateway&sr=8-3


----------



## Jack3M

You know Marvin, that is a good idea, as if I can stretch things out from the quill, instead of only being able to go from center, that I could reach both sides of the Y axis.  Since I know I am off, I am thinking the only way to have it look right is to go from the outer ring.  BUT I am not positive and will be getting feedback from several before I bludgeon further along.  Thank you.


----------



## PhilL

Sorry Jack, I'm wracking my brain for you.  
Thinking out loud...
1- Can you indicate the rotary table bore to the quill
2- Move X a known amount to get clearance for the flywheel to clear the mill throat.
3- lay the flywheel on the roatary table and snug the clamps.
4- spin the rotary table to indicate the FW to the table indicating against the outer rim.

Hmmm AS I wrote that, I realized this will indicate the FW rim to the center of the table but that may not be what you need.  I'll leave the answer there in case it helps to nudge you in the right direction for what you need.


----------



## Jack3M

Phil, I have considered this, but I would rather indicate off something that does not move, and fix the table to zero.  You have the concept I need.  I do think Marvin's suggestion will be easier and more accurate and eliminate the rotory table completely.  I do not want to re do the outer diameter, as I wish to keep as much metal as possible before balancing.  Of  value, it doesn't have to be super tightened down to drill and ream one hole.


----------



## PhilL

Yea, I hear you Jack.


----------



## Jack3M

I have now spoken to Gary and he says.....Since I have placed the counter balance weights on the crankshaft the loss of material on the flywheel will not be important.  Therefore indicate off the center parting line at the spokes and do the whole thing over.


----------



## PhilL

He's right.  This engine won't run fast enough for a slight out of balance to matter.  If you need to rebalance, you could drill holes and fill them with something lighter.


----------



## Jack3M

My head won't wrap around why just going with the outer diameter won't work.  But I will do things the way suggested.


----------



## MrMetric

I am thoroughly enjoying your posts, Jack... I've also talked with Gary Martin on the phone a few days ago.  I never got a set of the plans in my Mery kit (bought from a different individual, so Gary is out of the loop on that), and I wanted to rectify that problem. Castings sets such as the Mery are almost boutique items in that availability can go away at any time; therefore, although I'm hoping Gary doesn't go anywhere soon, I figured I should get the plans tout suite.

As you know, I have some reservations about starting a model such as the Mery as one of my first casting builds. Gary is making a pretty convincing argument to do his John Deere first primarily because of the documentation that complements the kit. It is on the higher end of kits, but I also understand the reasoning for why this is the case; it is turn-key (excepting paint and ignition source), and is very thorough.... So, I may be doing that one and then the Mery.  I'm happy to put the plug for Gary in here because I was very impressed with his interest in supporting his product. From reading your posts, it is evident that he has supported you as well, which is wonderful.  He and I talked about your wheel too. He mentioned that he isn't a computer guy so posting a lot isn't his thing, but it is quite apparent that he is happy to discuss issues (I get the feeling that verbally is probably the quickest for him).

I live about 10 miles from Los Gatos, which is where the Mery from which these models were originally developed is located.  I hope to someday see the real guy in person (will have to wait for a show, I think... can't really barge into someone's house)


----------



## Jack3M

Well the last weekend in July and the first weekend in August he will probably be at the Great American Steam up in Brooks Oregon.  Pretty cool place and well worth the trip if you havent gone.  I saw it last year.

Yes, Gary is not at all hesitant to give advice and tips.  I have enjoyed every moment of contact with him.  His shop is awesome, cluttered, but in a busy way.  Neat guy, along with his one employee.  Very interesting person.  He is apparently working on full size flywheel patterns for the original JD hit and miss.  (He has flywheel patterns all over hanging in his shop.)

Along with an excellent product and drawings for it, this is one I would build again.


----------



## PhilL

I've had several chats with Gary as well when he comes to Cabin Fever in Pa.  He loves talking with folks who have built his stuff.
The last time I saw him a couple years ago, he was on his last few sets of castings for the Mery.  He said he wasn't going to make any more. 
Jack, I sent you the Mery newsletters to your Gmail account in your profile.  I sent them a couple weeks ago.  Did you get them?


----------



## Jack3M

Not that I am aware Phil, will go back and look thru the spam folder.
[email protected]?


----------



## PhilL

That explains it.  The message in your profile has [email protected] not 29.
I'm in work at the moment and I don't have access to my files.  I'll resend it tonight when I get home.
MRMetric, if you would like a copy, you can include your email address or PM me.  These newsletters are what was circulated to the group who were involved in the early stages of the development.  Lots of info you won't find in the prints.
I have received permission from Roland Morrison to forward them on to anyone building the engine.  He was Gary's partner for this project.


----------



## Jack3M

Well, still working on center.  Photo needs explanation.  The green line points to the silver dot which is the center both using a center tool and using the DRO to get center from the outside of the hub.  This was taken at the same height in all locations thanks to DRO.  The lines from the tool (no arrows on the lines) also coincide with this.  BUT I am not supposed to indicate from the hub.

So took the wheel and centered on x axis to get center for the two available locations at the spoke centers.  Those are the red and blue lines pointing to pen dots.  Since the counter balance is in the other section that is useless to measure.

I am thinking that the wise thing to do in this instance is take the average of the 4, splitting the difference of the outside centers.  Speak up folks.  What do you say?  Gary, it is Saturday won't bother you on weekend, but you know how to contact me.

Also, I am unable to hold the flywheel on the rotory table without an arbor and even begin to hope things stay centered.  Must have the hole to use the table.


----------



## PhilL

Being in the center of the hub or spokes is esthetic and less important then centered to the rotating mass on the outside.  when I turned mine, I did take a skim on the hubs just because my OCD made me do it.


----------



## Jack3M

Morning Phil.  Yes, that is my goal.  I still want to indicate from the outside too, since I already screwed up once.  Ordered one of those attachment to the quill holders, got it yesterday, but wasn't feeling good enough to try it.  Maybe today.  Today the hole decision will be made....Or, I could just go fishing and say bolt it.


----------



## PhilL

Have you exhausted the possibilities of having external help?  I can't help but keep thinking the flywheel is about a 2hr job in a lathe.  You don't have a small jobbinbg shop or a technical school around that you could enlist?


----------



## Jack3M

Nope been there looked at that.  No one wants anything to do with such a small job


----------



## Jack3M

Alright, got it, straight and true.  No photos been crazy day and looking now like the rest of this week will be the same.  Will post photos after color.  Very happy with results, took the average of the center of the spokes, the hub, and the outer diameter.  Worked out to my satisfaction.


----------



## PhilL

Sweet!!!


----------



## Jack3M

Getting a few spare minutes.  Great story that goes along with the photo.




I put clear lacquer on the bare shiny metal to keep from oxidation.  Well when I went to put it on yesterday, had to buy a new can.  Had the clear lid, the shelf labeled clear, but some anal pore put gloss white with the clear lid.  Of course I didn't read the can and started spraying.  Well remember I said that lacquer thinner attacks powder coat?  You got it, had to do the whole damn thing over again.

I left the outer side rings with a brushed finish, not shiny like the outer ring.  Need to make a balancer so it may be balanced.


----------



## PhilL

Jack, I think you're going to beat me for number of repaints!
Looks great though.


----------



## Jack3M

.Took a piece of drill rod, a pair of skateboard bearings and turned the ends down for the center of the bearings.  Used that to get a static balance on the wheel by holding the outer races of the bearings.  It took 13 grams to balance.  Carefully in the heavy area drilling in the outer side ring on each side.  Several checks to assure not too much taken.  As this was done the heavy spot moved a little and had to add 3 more tiny dimples to finish out the balancing.


----------



## Jack3M

A taste


----------



## MrMetric

that is looking very nice, Jack....  I'm curious what type of powder coat setup you are using.  I know little about it, beyond that Eastwood used to sell a kit.  My problem has always been the baking.  I understand it takes a 400 degree oven or so, which any household will have.  However, my household includes a SWMBO (she who must be obeyed). As the president, CEO and COO of the kingdom (queendom?), mere serfs have been forbidden from doing things like baking metal pieces in the oven.


----------



## PhilL

Just out of curiosity, are you planning on using tapered keys on those shafts?  I would strongly encourage it.  Setscrews on straight keys last about 10 minutes before they come lose.  Especially on a flywheel this large.  I used tapered keys and haven't had any come lose after days of running.


----------



## Jack3M

PhilL said:


> Just out of curiosity, are you planning on using tapered keys on those shafts?  I would strongly encourage it.  Setscrews on straight keys last about 10 minutes before they come lose.  Especially on a flywheel this large.  I used tapered keys and haven't had any come lose after days of running.


The tapered, read about it in the newsletter


----------



## Jack3M

MrMetric said:


> that is looking very nice, Jack....  I'm curious what type of powder coat setup you are using.  I know little about it, beyond that Eastwood used to sell a kit.  My problem has always been the baking.  I understand it takes a 400 degree oven or so, which any household will have.  However, my household includes a SWMBO (she who must be obeyed). As the president, CEO and COO of the kingdom (queendom?), mere serfs have been forbidden from doing things like baking metal pieces in the oven.


Well the initial investment is the expense, unlike painting with automotive/professional stuff. (Last I bought automotive paint the color coat alone was $120)  So like the gun is probably the most important.  I got one of these, and got bunch more empty canisters.
https://www.powdercoatpro.com/product/redline-powder-coating-gun-demo-sale/
Then you need compressor capable of 30 PSI.  For the Oven I got a toaster oven that had a timer to shut down.  Biggest I could find.  I forgot the name and too lazy to go back downstairs.  One could also use an old oven finding on Craigslist.  I will eventually get one for larger pieces, but this one is big enough for plenty of room around flywheel.  Dedicate an oven to the process.
One of the best parts is cleanup is minimal, as in take a blow nozzle and blow off the residue.  No solvents.  Holding the part to coat can be a challenge so think that through before starting.  
As far as powders are concerned, I use Prismatic Powders, for two reasons, they are close so shipping is less, and the variety of colors is amazing.  Never mind, mix, match, combine, etc.  This project has a solid color that looks like crap, until the transparent red goes over, and that looks great, but the clear just makes it stand out.


----------



## PhilL

So you can do multiple 'coats' Jack?  It sounds like you are doing 3.  I didn't know that.  I thought it was base and you're done.


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## Jack3M

Yes you can do multiples.  The first coats are 'cooked' only until wet looking +2 mins.  Multiples do get extra time.  Some of the colors demand a minimum of two different powders to achieve the desired/expected color.  It is pretty neat.


----------



## Jack3M

Con rod and backing plate, just bolted together to not loose the small piece.


----------



## Jack3M

Worked on the 'boxing' today, what I would normally call a bushing or bearing.  So solder two halves together then machine.  Drilled all the holes first after getting proper outer dims.  Came out pretty good.  These get lacquer to keep their luster.


----------



## Jack3M

Working on crosshead.  I apparently forgot to take several photos.  At this point, the shoes are being turned to the inside diameter of the main body.  Very show as they are held on by small 4-40 bolt and nut, so only taking 10 thou per cut.



Now starting tomorrow I can fish for salmon again, so might not get as much done.  Depends on how hot it is in the afternoons after I get back from fishing.  

Talking to Gary yesterday, he has 6 more sets of castings and he may or may not make more, so if you are considering, I suggest you get the kit now over later.  This has been the most fun kit of any every for me, and I have done some expensive kits in my life.


----------



## Jack3M

Yes, yes, yes.  Good day before the heat penetrated the shop.  Lots of photos today, a trick to mate holes without being able to use locator punch.  The crosshead was finished and fitted today, the inside of the body had to have the powder coat scraped off to get smooth motion.





Then got the packing gland studs placed only at this time.



Now, to get the holes from the cylinder transferred to the main body for drilling.  These are through holes, nuts on the side opposite the cylinder.  So.  Took some cereal box cardboard and made a 'gasket' template, being sure to get the cylinder holes for the studs clearly marked and then punched out with hole punch.  This was aligned on the cylinder.  Then both the 'gasket' and the BODY of the engine were coated with rubber cement and allowed to glaze.  Then the cylinder (which has a locating ring ) was placed up against the body causing the 'gasket' to stick to the body.  The holes in the gasket were then used to locate and drill the holes.


----------



## PhilL

Looking great Jack!  
For anyone else who may be building along with Jack, he PM'ed me about the piston conrod length.  It isn't spcifically called out on the prints.  He was my reply:
I just went through my drawings and I didn't even see the con rod. I must have calculated the length. When I was emailing with Roland, he did tell me people were making the piston 1/2" NOT 3/4" thick. Also read the newsletters. In vol3 and 5 they mention about the compression. They were all struggling to lower it. As drawn, you'll get about 60# and they were finding it ran smoothest at 40#. Hollowing the pison ends and heads, ect. to lose compression. Also, you have to pull the piston towards the rear of center about 1/4" to balance the compression. If you make the piston end threaded more than needed, it will give you the room to adjust the piston location. Just don't overdo it or you'll be pulling threads throught the packing gland. If you do the calculations, for all this, you won't come near the holes. The crank stroke will see to that.

I'll add, along with the narrower piston and I used O rings instead of steel rings.  I'm pretty sure I used 2 grooves and 2 O-rings.


----------



## Jack3M

Well this information will just have to settle until I am serious about trying to start it.  Once further along will get to compression test, at this point would have to make adapter, and the part who's holes I would use to attach this with have not been made yet.  Thinking ahead, I like the idea more of dishing out the piston on each end. Someone told me also that the compression should be different for each cylinder and dumb me, I didn't ask how much of a difference.  But I bolted up the head with the piston in there for a photo.


----------



## Jack3M

Forgot I had some photos of how I did the packing.  I just happen to have an elk hide and use the edges of the hide to get the circles.  Used two layers and as can be seen it just 'stuffs' into place.




Got boat issues so didn't fish yesterday.  Didn't get much done either as it was back up time.  The shaft for the gear got drilled off center, my mill had slipped and had not noticed.  The shaft that runs thru there has bushings, so am getting true using them.  The distance from the crank to the center is a pretty precise measurement and for gears it is critical to be correct.    So made a marking tool.


This goes from center of shaft if you can see the dot to the red dykem down there to mark distance.


----------



## larryg

Jack3M said:


> Someone told me also that the compression should be different for each cylinder and dumb me, I didn't ask how much of a difference.



What you have is two cylinders with different volumes.  The cylinder with the rod in it has volumn consumed with the rod so the intake charge is smaller and threrfore will not show the compression pressure as the cylinder without the rod.  This is a swag and it may be what "someone" is talking about.

things are looking good

lg
no neat sig line


----------



## Jack3M

Very good, never considered that aspect


----------



## Jack3M

Got in some time.  Cleaned up the larger of the two gears and got it ready to cut teeth.

Also got some time to make the gear hob.  I get the formulas online on a Utube posting.  You need to know DP (Diametric PItch) and PA(Pitch Angle) to make the cutting tool.  Then use the formula for the depth of the plunge cut.

First cut the 6 groves to depth with exact distance between each.  There is no room for any error doing this or the tool is wasted steel. 


Move over to the mill and using a rotory table to make 5 cuts just off center line which gives the proper offset for the teeth.


Lastly come along with a mill bit and cut off the material between the back of the tooth and the next slitting saw cut taking care not to bite the teeth.  And then this will need cleaned up on a wire wheel to get rid of the roughs.


This will be heat treated down the raod


----------



## Jack3M

Also am in need of help, described the problem here.
https://www.homemodelenginemachinis...tting-gears-doesnt-go-high-enough-help.31501/
PROBLEM SOLVED.


----------



## karlw144

Jack, enjoying your build as I’m also building a Mery. I had the required cutters to cut my gears so that I didn’t need to make the hob, but I’d like to add that skill. Could you please provide a link to the information you used?


----------



## Jack3M

Part one, with the most important information, the calculations and basic idea


Part two which I didn't need this time


He does make an error later in the FIRST video re: one calculation, ignore that.  The stuff he does on the white board is correct.  I think was just a slip on his part (the error)


----------



## Jack3M

Edit to above post.  I used the machinist manual to get the depth of cut per tooth, I believe that formula is in the second video. I get a different value using the Machinist Handbook formulas.....not a huge difference, the handbook has a range of min and preferred.


----------



## Jack3M

Let me elaborate, to achieve the depth of cut for the tool, I need what the book calls "Whole Depth (Preferred) *h1*."  There is also "Working Depth *h2*".  P is the diametral pitch.  Regardless, the value for the depth of cut (h1 *or* h2)uses a different factor (X).  Thus the formula is: h1 (*or*) h2=X/P.  Clear as mud, right? 

In my case, I wish to use the h2 factor and thus the formula for a 32 DP gear is as follows:  h2=2.250/32  Thus each cut needs to be a total depth of 0.0703125.....Round to your choice, myself  I will use 0.073.

The formula in the video (apparently)splits X difference in half for it's value. 

I am thinking that the Whole Depth is what I need as the last set of gears I made could have used a little more clearance from greater depth, i.e., Whole Depth and not Working Depth.  Thinkin on making an aluminum casting to test for sure that this all is going to work before I cut the cast blanks from the kit.

(This is all based off the _28th edition_ of *Machinerys Handbook*)  If I misunderstand, please correct me.  It helps me to understand to try to explain to others.

Kind of busy next few, so not going to cut anytime soon by the looks of things as I don't want to mess up by stopping part way, any change is total destruction of the blank.

Good nite folks.


----------



## Jack3M

Well between runs of salmon, rainy day, so getting some stuff done.  Spent the whole morning tramming the mill, rotory table, and such.  Got to starting on the gear today.  Immediately had to modify the tool.  Should have made it with more cuts.  Instead took a grinder to the (shiny) spot to provide relief, else it dug in to the top of the tooth.  

Obviously slow going, .01" per pass, with 7 passes to cut a tooth, then release all, do the dividing plate thing, tighten, cut the next.  Decided that .07 was good enough as spread was .067-.0703.  Small cuts only otherwise blank gets to vibrating if too much of a cut, part just isn't 'solid' and has flex.


----------



## PhilL

More power to you for making the cutter Jack!


----------



## Jack3M

Wellllllll, not sure why, but it didn't come out.  You have to do the whole gear to find out on the last tooth if it came out which is an ugly feeling.  So ordered another, have a cast wheel that can use for something, just not a gear.  Such is life.


----------



## PhilL

Jack, If I may...  Order the cutter from Ebay.  You should find it for about $20.  I'll find the spec when I get home.
I'm affraid there are too many variables involved and there's no adjustment for mesh.  You have to be 100% right the first time.  The picture I saw above didn't look like the teeth had the right form.  They looked very triangle shaped, not gear tooth shaped.  Also, they came to a sharp point.  Granted, it's a slow speed but these would have been problematic for you I think.

Also, a couple hints on cutting:  
1- To prevent getting to the end and realizing you have a choice of one large tooth or 2 small teeth, take the extra time and do a scratch cut on every tooth.  A few thousandths is all you need to see what will happen.
2- There is a method of measuring gears called 3 wire measuring.  Google will help you here.  This takes the guesswork out.


----------



## Jack3M

Phil go ahead and link me to a cutter, I only see full set options for 32dp 14.5 pa, for a 32 and 150 tooth gears.  (I do have a suitable 7/8 arbor)  I agree the tooth shape is too sharp, which could mean too much depth of cut.  The other end of the cut depth spectrum was only .003 less and not sure if that was enough to make the difference.  This is not the first time I have made spur gears with similar tool, just not sure what is off here yet.


----------



## PhilL

Well hell...  I can't believe my cheap @$$ spent $45 each for those cutters!  What was I smoking?
The cutters I have are TTC (Travers) 10-281-320 and 10-283-320.  You'll need both the #1 and #3.  
I don't have any peperwork for where I got them.


----------



## Cogsy

In the second picture it looks like the top 'tooth' of the cutter is taking almost a full depth cut but the bottom one is barely engaged (if at all). When I've used a similar tool to cut gears the end teeth barely toughed the workpiece. I guess the size of the blank will make a difference but the cutter certainly has to have the center tooth exactly on the centreline of the blank and from the looks your was not. Possibly this is your issue?


----------



## Jack3M

Cogsy, well I thought it was correctly positioned.


----------



## Cogsy

It could just be the angle of the shot. It just appears off to me but it might not be.


----------



## karlw144

When I cut my 150 tooth gear I used packing plates on both sides of the gear blank to reinforce it to reduce vibration and cut full deapth in one pass. I did do a scratch cut first to make sure my indexing was correct. I used the specific cutter, I can’t remember which one (#1 or #3).


----------



## Jack3M

Okay, after analysis; the depth I cut was 0.070, determined by the calcs above.  That was one extreme, the min was 0.067.  Will that .003" be enough?  I will admit my gibs need tightened, which I can do now that the thing is over.  Also, I did it in 3 different sittings, so I could have goofed somehow.  Obviously the teeth are cut too deep, no flat on the top.  Also, at one point early on....had to remove the cutter and get relief, and used the previous cuts to align the cutter to same tooth.  Then started back over in the same place as originally, the alignment was not off at that point, but that was not a good thing to do regardless, at that point I had no other choice.  The relief was necessary  because of the small diameter material chosen for the tool 0.5".  Considering making a new one from some 1.25" tool steel I have on hand.  Hate to waste it on a 32DP 14.5.  Not a common size, but still overall less expensive than the involute cutter sets.

As in part two of the video, each cutter tooth does a cut on a different part of the gear tooth.  

Karl, I like the idea of the sandwich, and will combine that with some sort of arbor that will clamp over be a tolerance fit. Even wiih loctite, it loosened and had to fix that.  

So many things could have been.  Probably a combination (comedy) of errors?  Let's see if I can screw up the mating gear today while I await a new countershaft gear.


----------



## PhilL

The next gear is the small one.  You made a different cutter for that right?  Make a practice one out of aluminum or something.


----------



## Jack3M

Phil, same cutter all gear counts.  Second video explains between 5:30 and 6:00.  Only thing that changes is the rotor table stuff and tool alignment.  That is the cool thing about this cutter.  It is not an involute cutter which does require different cutters for different tooth counts.  This time will do full scrape with Dykem and hand turn the tool in the mill to score a full circle before cutting.  Want to make arbors that clamp down first.


----------



## PhilL

Sounds like a solid plan.


----------



## Jack3M

Well that went well.  No issues at all for the small gear.


----------



## karlw144

Jack, did you do a scratch cut first? Did you cut full death in one pass?


----------



## Jack3M

karlw144 said:


> Jack, did you do a scratch cut first? Did you cut full death in one pass?


Yes, scratch first then the first cut I worked in to the .067", then just did all the cuts in one shot.


----------



## Jack3M

Well got the new gear blank yesterday.  Not a big deal, been fishing and catching.  Needed a rest today from good fishing.  All prep and prelim work same as before.  No telling for sure what I did wrong.  But you can see in first photo that it got the scratch treatment all the way 'round, and used Karl's suggestion of sandwiching the part to stop chatter and vibration so I could make full cut each pass and it worked well.  Back to fishin' tomorrow, we are even going to get a pair of days to fish and retain Sturgeon.


----------



## Jack3M

Cooler weather is allowing me to fish and work in the shop.  Caught two nice Chinooks this morning and cut some keyways this afternoon.  Had been fretting as the ones I did today were only 1/16 and I was not about to buy a single broach and guide for just one job.  Use a cutoff blade in a holder that actually was for a MicroMark hobby lathe.  I was quite surprised how the method worked.  Put it in the lathe to hold both the gear and the shaft, tho each was a different setup essentially.  Just several passes at 0.010" and it was over.  No grief at all.


----------



## Jack3M

G'mornin' folks.  Worked on the eccentrics yesterday.  I found this a challenging process.  Mostly because of holding, the one 'tit' sticks out wider than the part is thick.




As you can see from the photos there is a chunk that needs cut out to make them sorta round.  Marked that out first, then did the holes necessary for not only bolting together the two halves but the attach point for the rod and an oiler cup.


----------



## karlw144

Jack, I’m at the same spot with the eccentrics. Wanted to bore and undercut on the lathe, can’t figure out how to hold them. Maybe on the mill in a vice and a special cutter to do the undercut.


----------



## PhilL

If I recall, I held it with a 4 jaw and some very imaginative blocking and a very light touch.

I cut flats on the outside of the bolt ears that I could use to indicate the casting center that direction then I referenced the parting line of the 2 halves for the other direction.  Once I had all that set, a facing cut to reference square and you're all good!


----------



## Jack3M

Well, my plan is different, as usual.  I have a boring head and an already made cutter for the undercut.  If I remember correctly I need to make it a bit narrower.  But.  Having done this, this way, before, and it was successful, that is the plan.  Once you have center it isn't too hard to accomplish with the help of the DRO.  After I get some food will attack that.


----------



## PhilL

Absolutely no problem with a different plan.  There's no right or wrong.  It's what keeps us coming into places like this.


----------



## Jack3M

Feel like crap today, muscle spasms in neck so didn't get so much done.  Piddled around with checking the gear mesh and that was great, me happy camper about that.


Also got that powder coated.

Decided to at least look at eccentric.  Ended up doing one after all.  Karl, photos to possibly help you now.  Used a diamond cutting wheel on dremel to do this.


----------



## karlw144

Jack, do you have a picture of your “under cutting” tool?
Good progress on your engine, I’ve got too many other things going on right now, Mery progress is suffering


----------



## Jack3M

Karl, best I have is the one above which is fuzzy.  I hear you on busy, fish are distracting me here


----------



## Jack3M

Karl have a photo for you that is in focus.  Of note, the upper part that has been cut down is slightly slanted so as to not touch the bearing surface.  Then after the 'tooth' is set to center of the strap bearing surface, just move the tool a skosh toward the cut every few passes or so, I actually turned the axle of the machine until a few passes.  The tooth should be full depth of the recess in the part and no more.


----------



## Jack3M

Okay, been several days without an update.  All excuses, no good reasons.  This will be a rather long one I think.  First, I had someone suggest I tell more about my process for a given part.  I will try, that is the best I can do, but remember I am self-taught and have no formal machining education.

Karl got his eccentrics done and they look great, glad to be of a teensy bit of help Karl.

Next on the make it list was the couplers for the rods.  These rods screw into the eccentrics just made and the end that is made here will be the link to hook to the rocker arms.  Just so happened to have the perfect size stock in bar, so used that, was low carbon steel.  First one was piece of cake, the second one made me make a third.  LOL

So, first turned the round stuff on the lathe.



Drilled the through hole for the rod and threaded on the lathe.  After cutoff, took that to the mill and used a slitting saw to get the two outer (inner) edges and then a 1/8 bit to cut out the rest....slowly.  I neglected to say the hole for the cross pin was done before that and checked for fit with the pin.  Those also got cotter pins that were made from music wire.  Cross pin is stainless.



Rods were made from drill rod.  Had the wrong size rod and if you ever tried to shave off .020" off drill rod you understand the futility.  Learned a new trick.  The rod was perfect for 8-32 thread, so threaded that.  Then since the outer diameter of 6-32 is just slightly less than 8-32 bottom of thread  I was then able to get the correct size using the 6-32 die.  Dang it worked well too.




Last photo is with the cotter pins made from music wire. . . Like .0045" wire, using jewlers pliers to make the circle bends.  



Now, this is a 'midpoint' and possibly I may make the wooden base at this point as it is tippy to the flywheel side.  Plan on using ash for the skids and cross ties.  Want to leave enough room for water pump, water reservoir, and fuel tank with the ignition down below, toward the back in a wooden box.


----------



## karlw144

Nice going Jack and thanks again for your help. Guess I know what parts I might be making next.  Won’t be in the shop for almost a month so will likely forget by then.


----------



## PhilL

Looking great Jack!
"First one was piece of cake, the second one made me make a third"  <---  I seriously laughed out loud at that!!  But oh so true.


----------



## Jack3M

The skids are essentially done, will put some planking in some areas down the road.  




Don't have to worry about it tipping over onto the flywheel side and fall off the bench anymore now.

After several days of research, conversation with Phil, and looking ahead to parts and fixin's that the explosion chambers need for completion the process was begun. 

First they were cut apart and the boxes squared up.  Then the mount face was brought to dimension which is from the center of the valve stem.  The overall length is not critical and I chose 2" as an equal number. 


The holes for mounting are not critical in my method, so marked out all around for them, and drilled them so as to use as guide for location of mount bolts on the cylinder.  These were then glued to the cylinder with the shown locktite.


These were then marked with a punch when dry (can't think of right name of the set for doing this right now).  Then the chambers were tapped off the cylinder and I found a new advantage.  Originally the plan was to get the cylinder side all set and make the gasket and use that to locate the hole into the cylinder.  The loctite made a great location mark and these were drilled out from the one side only.


So probably after the weekend the plan is gets involved.  The cylinder will have to be removed to drill for the mounting studs.  Quite a few things to disassemble and not loose parts LOL.  Have a day folks


----------



## Jack3M

Maybe I should do the basic exhaust chambers too so it is only necessary to disassemble this on time for these processes.  Will still need to remove the piston and do some creative removal of material from the solid chunk.  Apparently one has to think about the fact there is a shaft on one side taking up volume, and not the other meaning that there is big difference in volume.  Might need to get my engineer son to do the numbers for me.


----------



## PhilL

Looking fantastic Jack.


----------



## Philipintexas

When it comes to “balancing” compression in both cylinders, I fashioned a simple compression gauge and spun the wheel with a drill motor and aimed for equal readings from each end. I made extra long threads on the rod and could position the piston as needed. 

I noticed you have a key to hook-up the flywheel and 1/2” shaft. My engine fired with some authority and given the mass of the 10” flywheel, quickly loosened the key. I ended up drilling & threading an Allen bolt into the junction, half in the shaft & half in the wheel.  This holds well but makes re-assembly a little complicated as the wheel must be in the exact location to assemble.


----------



## Jack3M

Ah, so that is why you had the plugs for those holes.  That is a way, but Gary says it has too much compression, so this will also help along with making the stroke as equal as possible for balance purposes.  Kind of chilling a bit on this, the last fishing is as soon as the fish get here and will only be a few days, then to get the boat out of the slip and winterize before I get into something I don't want any distraction from.  Am certainly itchin' to go on it, but that only increases the value down the road.


----------



## PhilL

Jack,
Read the newsletters.  They speak about the compression.  If I recall, you'll need to cut the piston nearly 1/2 the thickness to reduce the compression.  DON'T rely on leaks as a reduction method.  

PhilipinTexas,
You said your flywheel key came loose.  Did you use a tapered key?  A correctly fitted tapered key should stay.


----------



## Jack3M

Working slowly on explosion chambers.  Made the tops from hard 1/8 brass.  Did the glue on thing and drilled a pair of holes to tap and use as insurance against the cover getting loose and messing with alignment.  All drilled and tapped to 2.5 mm.  Then drilled the valve stem hole from the bottom, relocated from the top with a shaft to center.  Drilled first the relief and then the press fit area for the valve guide.  Took and reworked a drill bit to get the angle for the face that the valve seats against.  Also the fuel inlet was drilled and tapped.  Not certain on where I want to put the spark plugs yet so have not tapped the other hole as yet.
.


----------



## Philipintexas

They must have changed the castings, mine had very little sealing surface around the edges. Blew gaskets too easily. Yours has a much smaller chamber with lots of area around the periphery.

I tried several key configurations on mine before giving up and doing it a different way.. I really think the great mass of the wheel relative to the 1/2" shaft makes a key pretty hard to fit effectively..


----------



## Jack3M

Did either of you try loctite in addition to the key?


----------



## Jack3M

Valve guides should have been an easy one two.  Instead it was a hellish 6 pair before I got a pair that I could use.  Funny how some of the simple stuff can be so difficult.  But they got done and reamed.  That rod is just a piece of the stainless that will be used for the stem of the valve testing for smooth fit.  Note the two extra holes that were off, fortunately could work around them.


----------



## Jack3M

Not dead here, just having issue with the guide, stem, and seal.  ...


----------



## Jack3M

So this problem is due to the guides not being true to the seat face, but just the guide as without the guide in place the valve seals.  There is .035" difference in plans from valve stem being less diameter by that over the reamed guide.  I did not adhere to that, I have about .002".  Got to make a tool that will align all this for reaming the guide.


----------



## Jack3M

No idea how many hours this took to sort out.  Was totally unable to get the valves to seat with the guides in place.  Seated just fine without them.  Redid and same problem.  Then the 'thinkin' on it began'.  So if the guide is the issue, and there is spare room down in the cavity, this can be set up with a leather gasket between a screw down 'plate'.  I am sure that makes no sense.

Essentially I made a threaded washer (and threaded the chamber) that squishes down on a leather packing to seal the valve stem from leaking gas in the closed valve situation.  This was done by drilling a slightly oversized hole so the valve stem would not touch the 'guide', which is no longer a guide in essence.  That was threaded and then cut off, 3/32 thick.  Then there had to be a tool made to screw it into the chamber.  Some pins were placed in a rod and corresponding holes in the 'washers'.  Also had to make a tool to cut the round leather. 

The leather was soaked in oil and sandwiched in.  Then the stem hole was cleared out and the valves lapped.  No leakage at all.


----------



## Jack3M

For those that have already built.  ....  The plans do not have any numbers for the wire size, spring length, or mandrel size for the valve springs.  Any of you folks remember?  Thanks


----------



## Jack3M

Just went and tried stuff.  Settled on .020" music wire over a 1/8 mandrel.  Made length to suit just closing valve.  Minimal pressure at closed.


----------



## PhilL

Sorry Jack,
I zoned out for a bit and missed the last updates.
You're on the right track for the .02 wire.  .015 is in my mind for some reason but you have the right idea, minimal pressure to open.


----------



## Jack3M

Thanks Phil.  

Been making several small parts, washers, nuts, a shaft.  Not much to photo or discuss, all simple one of type stuff.  The next big step is the exhaust chambers and getting my head wrapped around the drawings is proving to be challenging.


----------



## PhilL

Like the explosion chambers, don't lose sleep over those slots.  They're decoration at this point.


----------



## Jack3M

Hey folks.  This first photo is the shaft the rocking levers attach to, with it's accoutrements.  Drill rod.  



Started on the exhaust chambers.  Dang I don't want to have to buy an 11/16-32 tap and die for just these.  I have a friend who has the same lathe as I do and knows how to thread, so I may ask him.  But for now;

The chambers come as a pair that need cut apart


Here they are held together by a filament and came right apart.
Filed off the gross flashing on the parting line.  Used the 4 jaw to hold the round(exhaust pipe) end.  Indicated (on both) at the round part just beyond the round flange to within a couple thousandths which I was impress with due to rough casting.  Head side was finished first and the 1/2 hole to .375 drilled.  Filpped it around and did the pipe side, indicating on the same area, facing to correct total length and again drilling the 1/2 hole.  These will later get angled holes one each above and below valve seat.


----------



## Jack3M

Sort of going in a different direction.  Learning how to thread, this I hope will lead to making my own (bottoming too) tap.  Therefore at this time, not anything going on, just learning new skill that I need to complete this without wasting a bunch of $$ on tap and die that is hard to get, rare, and expensive.


----------



## Mark Bartlett

Jack3M said:


> Hey all,
> Saw one of these at the Great American Steam Up in Brooks Oregon last summer and fell in love with it.  Apparently it is one of the more rare, but highly spoken of.  Purple (powder coat???) Apparently the builder got lucky and some high falutin' pinstriper did the pinstriping on it.  It really is a gorgeous machine.  The only original that still runs was also there and got to see that in operation too.  I hope to even replicate the cooling system.
> 
> This is for now, a sideline, fill in project until the one ahead of it is completed.  This way when one project is held up it will be possible to work on another and chill the brain cells as needed.  Also we have another member starting on one also and we have been in contact.  I welcome interaction, but please lets stay on the given topic and questions.  There is another build out there by a member here,
> http://www.teqknow.com/Shop/Mery.html
> That one is done by someone who knows their pooh, I am a wannabe machinist so it might be of interest to watch me stumble along.
> 
> First order of business is to get the 60 sheets of drawings (8.5x11) into a notebook in the protective plastic sleeves.  Learned about using sleeves on another project and in the oily dirty environment they are just awesome.  Additionally there are a few sheets where it will be necessary to refer back and forth.  With greasy fingers this quickly soils good drawings.  Plus this way they can be kept in order in a 3-ring binder.  Frankly for this type of project I prefer the smaller sheets over huge plan sets.  (Actually turning one set into 8.5x11 sheets for a traction engine in my spare moments.)
> 
> If anyone is interested, my casting is #361





Jack3M said:


> Not much to say,  Got it all reamed and the shaft turns glassy smooth with fingertips.  Halves separated and solder wiped off while still hot, recheck shaft after all said and done.  The first photo is how I kept the bearings tight while drilling.View attachment 109330
> View attachment 109331
> View attachment 109332


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## Mark Bartlett

Hi Jack I need to pm you cant find how to do that Can someone tell me where it is


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## Jack3M

Use the start a conversation link.  I PM'd you anyhow so you can use that.


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## Jack3M

Quite a week already for me.  You-Tube is an awesome library for me, I can sort through the various ways of learning something.  Threading is not just a 1-2 thing.  It takes math, resources, gear changes, measurements, and understanding of how it all goes together.  I do not know much at all but got enough to do this task.  

So the exhaust chambers have a threaded cap, holes drilled at angles to intersect the chambers either above or below the valve itself.  One side is  8 deg. angle the other is 10 deg. angle.  I used angle blocks to set the part at the proper angle and drilled appropriately.

The threaded part was designed to be 11/16-32.  No way I will spend that much just to thread this odd size.  Alter the threads to what I have on hand and learn how to thread the caps in the same  thread which was 5/8-18.  Pretty big difference, but made aluminum 'crush' washers to assist with the seal.  

Very rewarding to have learned and utilized a new skill.

The actual process once indicating in the part was to work from the top, go thru with the smallest drill, ream that to size.  It went all the way thru.  Then the below the valve head cavity is created which goes almost all the way.  Just used a simple drill bit closest to the right size over a round nose bit.  Created the step for the valve seat at the size to thread the above tap that I did have.

Hopefully all was explained, with the below photos to get a better grasp.
Thanks for following.


----------



## karlw144

Great job Jack. Just started the clevis and rods to go along with the eccentrics. Making them to print dimensions is challenging, wanted to just use 3/8 or 7/16 square stock, but I’m making them to print. The exhaust chambers will be coming soon. Thanks for the details.


----------



## Jack3M

Hey Karl, I made mine to specs and they are just a skoosh to tight, I would give an extra .010" to make for smoother function.  I still need to modify mine.


----------



## Jack3M

I got word yesterday my son and his wife are expecting twins in May.  Sorta-kinda, WOW.  Still early, much could change, but I am bursting at seams.


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## PhilL

Congrats Gramps!!


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## Jack3M

Karl, found mistakes in plan sizes for the clevis and arm holes.  Just make sure they have the same size hole.  Also need to get enough depth that the motion can occur at the clevis.

Mounted up  the 4 chambers, which involved removing the cylinder, drilling and tapping all the holes.  Studs in all but the 4 top explosion chambers as the nuts were to large of diameter to fit so used allen head.  Of course gaskets....from cereal box cardboard.



As above, as things moved along, the shaft for the arms, the clevises and such need 'adjustment' from the plans.  Needed more length to centrally locate the rocking arms.  As above, the clevises are not deep enough to allow full movement, so that needs changed too.  None of this is a big deal, just a back up a step or two and modify as necessary.


----------



## karlw144

Jack, thanks for the tip on the depth of the cut in the clevis and mis match on hole sizes. Got my clevis, rods, and nuts done, now might have to change them a bit. Working on the explosion chambers and just noticed that you had 8 studs on the top, my drawing (and now the parts) only have 6. Was that your idea? That whole area for the valve and seat and insert is up next, a little intimidating. Did you make your valve stem .125”?


----------



## Jack3M

I used 8 because some folks had mentioned them blowing gaskets.....Ya .125" drill rod.  I am finding some stuff is just easier to use a close something else.

Not sure if I mentioned above, but the hole for the valve stem I reamed at .125 also, and I threw out the guides as they just kept screwing me up.  My leakage at the stem is minimal without the guide.

Kind of at impasse now as I had to order some brass pipe for fuel lines.  I could start on oilers, but I kind of want a break from this and am starting 2 more hit-n-miss kits.

Speaking of oilers, anyone got an inexpensive source for thin wall glass tube in small amounts?

Asking the same for Brass tubing/pipe large diameter, like 3-4"  copper would also do


----------



## Philipintexas

RE: Your question about glass tube.... I used clear plastic tube which is readily available. Easier to use and works great for oilers.


----------



## Jack3M

Where and what type of plastic?


----------



## Philipintexas

Available in sticks up to 5-6’ at most home building supply stores or hardware stores. Some hobby supply stores have shorter sticks.  It is easy to cut, clear and impervious to oil. 

For piping, I used 1/4” brass along with same size valves and connectors from Cole’s.


----------



## Jack3M

Coles?  I think they are out of business.  I use PM Research for that type of stuff.  Actually right now I am drawing and printing up plugs to just cast my own.  Will look at HD for the plastic.


----------



## Jack3M

Kind of dinking around doing little things.  In particular, since the keyways and flywheel seem to cause issue, decided to incorporate some set screws that tighten down on the keyway itself as can be seen in the photo.  Interestingly I had just the right size drill for this and it was a foot long, so it was not difficult to do.


----------



## Jack3M

No photos today.  Sorry.  Have been working on the display stand, the exhaust flanges, and some other assorted sundries.  Removed the engine from the stand and started doing the appearance stuff, like floor planking.  Used to make guitars and took some of my fancy woods that I didn't know what to do with, in this case, Bubinga.  Stripped out some of the 1/8 sheets I made years ago.  Used lots of CA glue between the seams, which will blend in completely when it is all finished.  Along with that, the water pump area needed underside reinforcement.  This was accomplished.

Have spent hours and hours on these exhaust flanges.  Call is for 9/16-40, I can't even find reference data for that in my Machinery Handbook, but it did have 9/16-32 and the lathe will set up for that thread.  Got the flanges done finally, and the first time I have done inside threads.  I think I should have taken another 10 thou out, but managed.  The Brass pipe threaded until I got to the other end of the nipple and then it caught and trashed the part.  I called it a day at that one, but was going well.  

Also made a plug and sand casted two elbows (in bronze) for the exhaust piping.  As explained elsewhere, by someone else, the exhaust needs to be single and not combined for the smaller engine to run well, so it will be singles.  Also since it is supposed to suck some fresh air from these too, they will be short, not sure if face up or down at this point.  

Actually the threading stuff is pretty neat once you get the hang of your machine and the book data.  I still do need to design and cast the water pump.  So far it is all in my head.


----------



## Philipintexas

Casting your own exhaust elbows would be a challenge but have you looked at cast-iron (1/4” ID. I think) elbows at a hardware store? they work well with about 1/2” pipe and the scale is appropriate.


----------



## PhilL

For exhaust, I used the cast ones from the hardware store but I turned down what I could and tried to make them smaller.  The intake side I did the same with the brass fittings.


----------



## Jack3M

Already cast them, just need to cut off sprue.  They came out really nice.  Will try to photo later


----------



## Jack3M

Just learned that Gary Martin has a set of water pump castings, no drawings, but some photos.  He sent a photo of that awesome purple machine with one.



As promised the casting for the nipples, and in the background a bit of the floor before it was done.


----------



## Jack3M

Well, the engine is completed.  Still need to make up the oilers, fuel system, ignition system, water pump and cooling system, but these are all over and above the engine itself.  There are a lot of little fiddly things to do still.  Made up the holder for the hall sensor.  Need to get black PLA to print out the final version.





The chalk mark in the last photo is where a magnet is on the backside of the gear.

Also finished out the exhaust.  Doing the elbows was pretty rewarding in that I did do the inside threading on them.  Used the 4 Jaw to do that.  



Cant really say final photos, but first completed photos.


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## karlw144

Beautiful job Jack. Can’t wait to hear/see it running. Thanks for helping me along the path on this engine.
Karl


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## Jack3M

Karl, As I mentioned in email, there is still a long way to go, but step one is complete


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## PhilL

VERY VERY nice job Jack!!!
That purple engine is killer isn't it?  I spoke with him.  He almost ruined it.  He left plain water in the jacket and plugged it up with rust.  That was where I realized I will always use machine coolant.  I think I would cry if I rusted mine.


----------



## Jack3M

That is good to know, never considered that aspect.


----------



## Jack3M

On to other items of need and interest in this project.  Got to have elbows and T fttgs.  Broke down and bought the tap and dies for 1/16-27 npt.  Work well on the brass and bronze.    Anyhow, the process.

Drew up some elbows and T fittings in groups of  3 contiguous fittings in Fusion360.  It has a nice feature of splitting something into parts on any given plane you choose.  For molding at home in sand there is nothing less expensive nor as simple as my process.  Years of trial and error and still improving.  Mind you these are for 5/16 brass pipe, not large stuff.


Printed out the halves on 3d printer using PLA.  A touch too small to effectively use drawn in locators and time consuming to get the different sizes, so just drilled some holes for 1/16 pins to hold each half during the casting.   Did two groups of castings this morning and used brass with a touch of zinc added as it has been melted several times.  That was very nice to work with, not as sticky as brass can be.  Had previously cast the T's in bronze.

Not sure how many I will need in total for fuel and cooling at this point.  It took all day to cast, clean, drill and tap them all. (and clean the mess from it all)


----------



## karlw144

And you only did enough for one engine? Lol. Nice job.


----------



## Jack3M

That probably is't enough


----------



## Jack3M

I don't get it.  I use the correct size tap and die and it doesn't start.  NPT thread.  What might I be going wrong?  Finally had to go to         5/16-27 to be successful


----------



## Jack3M

tWell tried to make her pop, but no pop.  Did valve timing according to Newsletter data.  I am getting spark at the plug.  Got one pop, just one.  Nothing but issues with mixing chamber so I think this may be the issue.  Sure seems to me like not even close to enough air.  As I remember a #60 hole for the gas needle and a #54 for air as I recall.   Those that have had success, was it with the shown mixer?  

Spark timing is either slightly before or right on TDC.  Holding intake valve open to get fuel in has no effect.


----------



## Jack3M

Been getting some help and feedback.  Trying to run on LP and use the mixer in the plans.  Apparently just getting too much fuel and I need a demand regulator.  Awaiting plans and more info, my assist person has personal stuff to attend to first and get me a file.  Found a mixer plan/diaphgram/needle that I may just get.  Not sure yet.  Meanwhile I have the grease cups and, unfortunately, I am going to have to disassemble and strip the whole thing and redo the finish and see if I can reassemble without chipping the powder coat.  It chips very easily.  Am also going to contact the coat people and see if they have suggestions.  Forward ho.


----------



## Philipintexas

I used propane with a hand-made demand regulator and the diaphragm/needle valve from a Briggs-Stratton carb. Not difficult to make and it works well. 
Were you shocked at the “Tiny” restriction in the exhaust system? It seems counter intuitive to force the cylinders to exhale/inhale through such a small opening, but it would not work with a larger opening.


----------



## Jack3M

Well I find out today that the issue was resolved.  You see, on the exhaust chambers, someone, cannot say who this might have been, someone, drilled the holes bass ackwards.  LOL.  So got to fix them up and give it another shot.  No wonder it wouldn't run/fire/do anything.  What a stupid mistake


----------



## Jack3M

That was it, still need to improve valve sealing but got popping now.  

During all this, have been putting a little time in on the water pump.  Much of it was to make gears 8t, 16 dp.  I had a set of cutters for 16 dp, but the 'count' of eight was not listed for any of the cutters.  Took a chance and used the one closest....12-13t and got a good set.  I had bought a set on Ebay, but they were only .375 thick and therfore would not work well with the ports.  So made a set that were .5".  Made one long gear on a shaft and cut them off.  Will get photos down the road.


----------



## PhilL

Jack3M said:


> Well I find out today that the issue was resolved.  You see, on the exhaust chambers, someone, cannot say who this might have been, someone, drilled the holes bass ackwards.  LOL.  So got to fix them up and give it another shot.  No wonder it wouldn't run/fire/do anything.  What a stupid mistake



Damn gremlins!!  I'm glad I'm not the only one with those little rodents!!


----------



## Jack3M

Success.  Need work on fuel system as it starves out.  Need cooling system first.


----------



## PhilL

Very well done Jack!!!
Isn't it a great feeling when it comes alive!


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## karlw144

Well done. You’ll get the bugs out soon enough. Great community to help us along.


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## Jack3M

A bit longer run, in fact the longest yet.  Had to make a new crankshaft after a backfire (I forgot to pin the darn thing first time around)  Also got the water pump mounted, need to plumb it.


----------



## karlw144

Way to go Jack, especially liked the sound effects as the Mery died! Pretty steady up till that point. Any idea of the speed?


----------



## Jack3M

No clue on speed


----------



## PhilL

LMAO!!!  I recognize that cry at the end!!!!
It will be like that for a bit.  It will run for a bit then quit.  You'll find something needs tweaking, then it will run a bit longer; rinse, lather, repeat.
It does sound like it's firing a bit out of balance.  I didn't slow the video down to determine which side is weaker but you can do that.  The video capabilities now are great for slowing down time and seeing what's happening.  Check your compression balance and look for leaks.  Especially on the rear packing.


----------



## Jack3M

Actually the rear was not firing at all, did not get hot.  Valves leaking.  (intake)  Both sides actually compression gone.


----------



## Jack3M

Damn, get it all back together, needed a new O-ring, I used the wrong type.  Regardless, the damn thing sheared the tapered pin and silver solder on the flywheel side.  Maybe I need to make one piece crank?


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## PhilL

Oh no...  That sux!
I've always done 1 piece cranks.  I guess there are pluses and minuses to each.
You may want to look into timing?  The power stroke may be a bit too early and resulting in a more violent stroke.  Since you aren't really powering anything, there's no need to fire too much earlier than TDC.


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## Jack3M

That is where I guess the timing to be, TDC  Using the timing light on the ign and visual on piston location/crank.  I am pretty much lousy on working steel with any kind of decent finish.  Did you start with 5/8" for your one piece?


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## PhilL

Yes, 5/8".  
That was one of the parts I documented pretty well.  http://www.teqknow.com/Shop/Mery2.html about 1/2 way down.  Just take your time.  I've seen your work you got this one.  It LOOKS much harder than it actually is.


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## Cogsy

What ignition are you using? The REXEL types have built-in automatic advance and fire way advanced at even slow running speed compared to turning over by hand (I've been caught out before).


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## Philipintexas

I have a piece of 1” X 10” CRS left over from my Mery, I have about $10 in it but shipping would probably be prohibitive. I’m in zip 75154 is it will help.


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