# My first engine, a Hoglet



## camm-1 (Mar 26, 2012)

Hi
I had a couple of ours tonight in the shop and begin with the flyweels.
Decided to mill them out ruffly first and so I could fasten them to the inside first in the lathe.
Its to small, and hope they will go intto the chuck with the outer jaws.
But..bullsh..it fails some millimeters and I tryed to turn the jaws of but they was to hard th_wtf1


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## willburrrr2003 (Mar 27, 2012)

That is a very nice start to this wonderful little Engine :bow:

Regards,

  Will


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## rhitee93 (Mar 27, 2012)

That is going to be a neat engine. I'll be following along!


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## crankshafter (Mar 27, 2012)

Hei Ove.
Nice start on the Hog.
Now that I see you in progress my first thought was: "Sh..t I want to build one more" ;D
Time will show. :
CS


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## camm-1 (Mar 27, 2012)

Hi and thanks boys!!
Until now it have work good and I´m waiting for the castiron to the liners and som more.
To make the cylinders and it start to look somthing is the funniest!
Bård: make a few more. You now " She makes it, she takes it for a few dollars more"
Love Smokie!
However I can not get the brass ring ready in my lathe it to small unless I dont by a bigger chuck.
I will wait to we get power to our big Storebro at my work.
I have not got the first issue nr 10 that the plan was in yet and dont now what is in it about this engine but I now want to proceed with the crankshaft.
What is the best order in progress or how to say???
Regards
Ove :bow:


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## hopeless (Mar 27, 2012)

I like the start you have made on the hoglet. I have the plans and am getting the materials together so I can make one once I get the confidence up. I'll be watching this build 
Pete


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## Jasonb (Mar 28, 2012)

Just a note for anyone building this on a small lathe , instead of doing as Ove has done and using brass plate to make the flywheels, obtain a short length of hollow cast bronze and that way the outside, inside and one face can be machined by holding in a 4" chuck, swap it end for end and do the second flywheel. Then saw down the middle and just face off the saw cuts still holding buy the inside.

The bronze is also heavier than brass thats why its specified.

J


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## camm-1 (May 14, 2012)

Hi!
Have got some time this wekend and finished one head :bow:
And the flywheels are ready but just notice I dont have a pic on them :


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## crankshafter (May 14, 2012)

Hey hey hey, Ove
Jælar. Nice work on the cyl.head , one up one to go.
Ps: call you on the end of the week.

Best Regards
CS


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## camm-1 (May 15, 2012)

Thanks CS! That wast the funniest part do machine so far ;D


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## camm-1 (May 17, 2012)

Today I got the second head finished 
It went much faster this time about 3 ours and Im pleased about the result.
Now I have to make the cylinders so it get to look like a engine ;D


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## camm-1 (Jun 1, 2012)

Hi all of you metalfreaks 
I dont have much time now to this hobby this time of the year but
was all alone tonight and finished one liner and put it together a bit 
But I have a problem.. the crankshaft dont line realy straigt true the crankhousing
because the housing sides are not square or how you say. Just a little but I
havnt find out yet how to solw it easy ???


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## camm-1 (Jun 12, 2012)

Now my Hoggie start to take shape ;D ;D ;D
Finished the cylinders now to evenings.
Cast iron sleeves and alu fins.


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## rhitee93 (Jun 12, 2012)

Wow, that is looking very nice.  Thm:


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## ozzie46 (Jun 12, 2012)

Looking Great.

 Ron


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## camm-1 (Jun 19, 2012)

Thanks for kindly words!
I have more pics by the building that Im been to
lazyto post but I will soon


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## V 45 (Sep 30, 2012)

Ove,
  Have you made anymore progress to your Hoglet ?
Dave


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## gus (Sep 30, 2012)

Please keep us updated. You are my hero. Very high quality work. You have raised the bar.


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## camm-1 (Oct 3, 2012)

Hi!
I have not done anything in the summer but started a little now.
I promis to get you pics later.

Have fun!
Ove


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## camm-1 (Oct 7, 2012)

Hi all of you!
Continued building on my Hog this wekend and got conrods , valveseats , valvesteerings ready
and one valve to.
I also put in rollerbearings instead of bronze bushings in the crankhouse.
Prssed in 4mm long valveseats of brass.
Here are som pics but sorry if the dont come in order.
Ove.


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## crankshafter (Oct 7, 2012)

Hi Ove.
Realy nice work! Good to see you are back on track.
Best reg.
CS.


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## V 45 (Oct 8, 2012)

Hi Ove...Great to see making progress again !! When you make the conrods...did you just turn the rod by hand around on a pin ? That's what it looks like.
Parts look great !!
 Dave


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## camm-1 (Oct 10, 2012)

HI Dave, Yes I was just holding the rods by hand on a pin.
Never tried that before and I was a little scary but it went fine.
Just be sure to only mill against the mil, not with it.
Ove


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## V 45 (Oct 12, 2012)

Hello Ove,
  Yea that looks a lot scary !!! Glad you have all your digits after that one !! Not sure how else to do it tho ? Unless you had a R/T.
Thanx again and looking good...
  Dave


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## camm-1 (Oct 24, 2012)

Now it isnt much left to do.
Heads cam and camhousing done.


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## RManley (Oct 25, 2012)

You are making a really nice job of this and cant wait to see it run  which wont be long at the speed you're working at!  

Rob.


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## camm-1 (Oct 25, 2012)

Cant wait either to se if it get to live, thats fore I work on it every evening now
I waiting for some bronze to the bushes for the pistonrods.
It is not asy to find here around,  we have an internet sajt here ho has but I dont pay that Rof} prices.
On the crankshaft I mounted ballbearings instead and the cam goes in brass
bushes now, can make new in bronze later.
R/ Ove


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## V 45 (Oct 26, 2012)

Hello Ove,
Did you take any pictures while making the cam shaft ? Did you make it on the lathe or a milling machine ? I am going to make my jugs out of ali with cast iron sleeves like yours. Not sure about how to cut the cam yet !!
Thanx again,
Dave


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## camm-1 (Oct 26, 2012)

V 45 said:


> Hello Ove,
> Did you take any pictures while making the cam shaft ? Did you make it on the lathe or a milling machine ? I am going to make my jugs out of ali with cast iron sleeves like yours. Not sure about how to cut the cam yet !!
> Thanx again,
> Dave


 
Hi
I maked the cam my own way, right or wrong, mostly wrong but I think it will work.
I first milled one long cam only the low flank and then turned it on lathe off center trying to get a nice flank.
One side looks good but not so good at the other, cut out four nocks and mounted them on shaft with rt and dialclock.
Four nocks dont now whats it called on english but i swedish its nocks.
I used tha drawings of Elias four nock cam not the original.
I locktided them with the best side hitting the lifters first.
I hav not done a cutter for left turning to my boringhead yet so in my hurry I tryed this.
Have to learn and do some better cams to Her.
Have some pics here.
Ove


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## V 45 (Oct 26, 2012)

Thanx Ove !! Well done...WELL DONE !!!!!


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## gus (Oct 28, 2012)

Hi Ove.
Me too.Looking forward to cut my first cam shaft.


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## camm-1 (Nov 7, 2012)

Lifters, mount magnets, exhaustpipes and something to stand on left to do.


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## camm-1 (Nov 8, 2012)

Have a day home today with hurting back and cold.
Went down to the garage and have some cosytime with my Hog
Had some interference to take care of then I start to put it togheter.
Forkrod take in th flywheel. camshaft struggled a bit, intake manifold to long, but now that is fixed.
Beginner as I am I dont realy get how to timing the cam to crank.


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## V 45 (Nov 8, 2012)

Hi Ove,
  I'm no expert either. But this (web links) might help you understand where and why the cam and crank align.
There is a lot more on line as well.  Hope this helps you some ! I have no afilliation with any of the links.
  Dave
http://www.animatedengines.com/otto.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_system

http://www.cncengines.com/


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## camm-1 (Nov 8, 2012)

If you align the magnet  to TDC on the first cylinder I think it will do then you have the adjuster to the spark
If I translete it right.
Thats my conclution now.


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## camm-1 (Nov 13, 2012)

Sorry that my phone slipped I´ll make a better movie later.
Ove
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7UBqOy7jos&feature=plcp[/ame]


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## rythmnbls (Nov 13, 2012)

Congratulations, nothing quite like that first run 

Sounds very smooth, nice low idle, great  job.


Regards,

Steve.


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## Cogsy (Nov 13, 2012)

Nicely done! I can't wait to hear my first I.C. engine fire up, must be a great feeling.


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## JaamieG (Nov 14, 2012)

Fantastic work and beautiful engine. The feeling on the first run must be glorious.
Cannot wait to complete mine!

Cheers,
Giacomo
Ludvika SE


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## vcutajar (Nov 14, 2012)

Nice one Ove.

Vince


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## Maxine (Nov 14, 2012)

Ha!  That's great.  What a feeling of accomplishment that must be.  Congratulations.


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## shipshape (Nov 15, 2012)

Hi Ove.
Congrat. I had å feeling something going on.
Realy nice work.
The sound of a Vtwin do me good.
Call You when I'm home for the weekend.
Bård .


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## gus (Nov 18, 2012)

The very first attempt starting and she started. Congrats!!!!

Still trying to figure  why my very first IC engine just won't start. Not giving up yet.Just taking a break. Or you call it tactical or strategic retreat.
Plan to rebuild engine from scratch.


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## AndrewW (Sep 13, 2021)

Jasonb said:


> Just a note for anyone building this on a small lathe , instead of doing as Ove has done and using brass plate to make the flywheels, obtain a short length of hollow cast bronze and that way the outside, inside and one face can be machined by holding in a 4" chuck, swap it end for end and do the second flywheel. Then saw down the middle and just face off the saw cuts still holding buy the inside.
> 
> The bronze is also heavier than brass thats why its specified.
> 
> J


Hi Jason, I appreciate that this is a very old post but could you recommend a supplier of short length hollow cast bronze? I'm struggling to find some without having to pay well over £100.
Cheers
Andrew


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## awake (Sep 14, 2021)

Andrew, I have often found it cheaper to buy standard 660 bronze and drill it out. Seems counter-intuitive, but I guess the procedure to produce it in hollow form must cost more than the raw material.


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## AndrewW (Sep 14, 2021)

awake said:


> Andrew, I have often found it cheaper to buy standard 660 bronze and drill it out. Seems counter-intuitive, but I guess the procedure to produce it in hollow form must cost more than the raw material.


Thanks for the advice. Much appreciated.


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## mrehmus (Sep 14, 2021)

Send me a picture and I'll put it in Reader's Engines in the next issue.
[email protected]


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