# Carbide toothed saw and diamond wheel tool centre - new project



## Metal Mickey (Apr 24, 2009)

I am not sure if this is the right heading for this new tool build but I suppose I am modifying the electric motor......forgive me if the subject area is wrong........

Carbide tipped saws have been recommended for metal work in the past, especially when they are slitting saw size. In the UK I couldnt find a supplier of small blades but a HMEM forum member (from Canada) sent me some blades to try. There are some really nice people in the model engineering fraternity. I am sending a traction engine book back to Canada (as soon as it comes back into Amazon stock!) but thanks are in order.

Instead of just trying the blade in my slitting saw arbor I thought I would bring forward an idea I had about building a saw table. The reason I wanted to trial the carbide tipped saws was to cut a round bar in half so I can make two crankshafts for the Seal build. Since the camshafts have now been made the next major item for the Seals is the crankshafts, so you can see all roads in fact led to the saw table.

Since I dont sleep very well I often ponder designs during the night, scribbling down some drawings at my 0600ish breakfasts. I started by writing out the design criteria at one of these breakfasts, with the aim of making some CAD drawings, leading to a set of plans (Alibre) which could be made available on my website. So this particular project covers many areas of interest for me. Such as making a workshop tool, using CAD, and helping with the Seal twin engine project. Not a bad result really.

The design criteria covered such things as having two blade sizes (please see photos) so it would be useful to be able to use both blades on the same machine. The blade depth of cut should be adjustable and by a measured amount. The top should be as adaptable as possible, allowing the safe holding of materials. The blades should have some form of safety guard and make use of an existing electric motor I have. 







Other ideas will no doubt come up as I progress, especially in the area of the work holding. I dont feel confident enough yet to just draw the design out in 3D CAD. Rather it will be a bit of both, build and the use of Alibre CAD. The help in laying out the plan I used some foam rubber/plastic as a former to check the size of the saw arm and the quadrant. By using these materials in a mock up I discovered my initial quadrant lever would not work so a new shape was soon cut out and tried.






Since I have several ¼ (0.250 or 6.35mm) sheets of aluminum recovered from my local scrap yard I wanted to use these to make a strong box shaped saw table (please see photo).The first task was to check the speed of the electric motor. I have a rev counter which measures revolutions from model aero engines and made up a temporary shaft to hold the Mills propeller. The measured speed was approximately 1200 rpm. The saw blades run at around a maximum 6000 rpm so I needed to increase the speed from the motor. 






I had a look at the spare gears from the Myford and there were both 20 tooth and 65 tooth gears that can be used. That should give me around 4,000 to 5,000 rpm at the blade. With these speeds I decided that all pulleys will have bearings and it was whilst searching for bearings I saw a diamond grinding wheel that would also fit the design. So I ordered the bearings and the diamond cutting wheel. 

Now the project has turned into a versatile saw and grinding table which longer term I would also like to develop to grind camshafts in the future. Madness you may say (and you may well be right!) but if you take the saw table top as a base for holding various fixtures, then it should be an ongoing (maybe years) development for my own tool centre.

The rough design schematic is shown in the photo below to help you understand where I am going. To make the blade/grinding wheel adjustable I will use a quadrant with teeth cut into it, matching with teeth on the saw/grinding wheel arm. With the screw thread used for adjustments I should be able to make fine and measured cuts. Since this movement involves the arm then the pulleys will need to have a tensioning system to take up the difference. 






Since I hope to have the tool for many years I will also be looking at the materials used, for example the saw arm needs to have a guide and clamp to secure it when any adjustment has been made. Just cutting through the aluminum wouldnt really serve long term so I am letting into the plate a brass section (made from two lengths of square bar silver soldered together).

The drive belt I shall be using is circular in cross section and the two ends are welded together (see photo), access to the belt as well as the gears (in case I need them on the Myford) and saw/grinding wheel needs be incorporated for change of belt, blades or now the additional grinding wheel. 






Leaving design for a moment I made a start on the main pulley that will hold either the larger saw blade on one section or the smaller blade or the diamond grind wheel on another, since they have the same bore. The front of this pulley will have two diameters for the blades/wheel and the rear of the pulley will contain a sealed bearing. 






So far the pulley has been turned to outside diameter and the belt groove done (photo). The bore has been drilled and reamed with a start made on the bearing housing but was put to one side whilst the bearings were ordered (arrived in just two days!). Hence a start being made on the saw arm using a ¼ (0.250 or 6.35mm) thick piece of flat steel. 

I am happy using the DROs to co-ordinate the machining of parts but I still like to mark out the design to make sure I am in the right place as it were. So after marking out the arm, the rotary table was secured to the milling table and a start made in cutting the small end of the arm (photo). When it came to the larger end I had to make new clamps so the complete part of the diameter could be milled and that is where the project was left at the end of the latest session.






Tomorrow I hope to complete the arm profile and maybe the inserts and perhaps the saw head pulley. I dont expect to spend too much time on the basic saw table, before switching to the Fowler Traction engine before going back to the pair of Seal 4 cylinder petrol engines. 

I have finally decided that these are the three main projects I will concentrate on over the next couple of months and try to keep other engineering distractions at bay. Again, time will tell..


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## RobWilson (Apr 26, 2009)

Hi MM, Whats the width of those blades you have there?
Rob


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## cfellows (Apr 26, 2009)

Just curious, MM, are you planning to cut steel with that carbide tipped blade spinning at 5,000 rpm? I'm just wondering if that isn't way too fast...

Chuck


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## itowbig (Apr 27, 2009)

side note i use to cut steel fence post with a cicular saw when i was build fence's. it was the only lite thing i could use at the time. it worked great made a lot of noise but it worked got to really watch the kick back with steel its fast


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## Metal Mickey (May 6, 2009)

RobWilson  said:
			
		

> Hi MM, Whats the width of those blades you have there?
> Rob



I am sorry for the delay in answering your question Rob. The largest blade width is 0.112" at the carbide tip. The smallest blade has a width of 0.066" at the tip.



			
				cfellows  said:
			
		

> Just curious, MM, are you planning to cut steel with that carbide tipped blade spinning at 5,000 rpm? I'm just wondering if that isn't way too fast...
> 
> Chuck



I had a practice using the milling machine and a know revolution speed and I think you have a point. So I have amended the design to allow a range of speeds so I will have some flexibility in the light of experience!



			
				itowbig  said:
			
		

> side note i use to cut steel fence post with a circular saw when i was build fence's. it was the only lite thing i could use at the time. it worked great made a lot of noise but it worked got to really watch the kick back with steel its fast



I take note of your kick back comment and hopefully my intended work holding system will help...but I will take care...........


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## RobWilson (May 6, 2009)

Hi MM thought you had gone on holiday or something ;D, Cheers for the info, Just cant read the make of the blades in the photo ?
Rob


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## Metal Mickey (May 6, 2009)

RobWilson  said:
			
		

> Hi MM thought you had gone on holiday or something ;D, Cheers for the info, Just cant read the make of the blades in the photo ?
> Rob



The large one available in the UK is SANDVIK Cormorant No.3 130mm dia with a 16mm bore and 14 teeth.
The smaller one I got from Canada via a nice model engineer.....is a Mastercraft general purpose blade and its 85mm with a 10mm bore and 24 teeth.

Hope that helps......

MM


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## Metal Mickey (May 6, 2009)

Managed to get into the workshop this morning so I carried on with the saw table build. I decided that the saw blade pulley would be my area to concentrate on. It needs to be small because I don't want it to affect the maximum height of the blades and diamond stone.

I decided to go the brass route again and started by boring out the space for the bearing. Next the cut out for the rubber drive belt was made using the previously ground tool steel profiled to match the belt. When I had completed the bearing housing the pulley was reversed in the chuck and the front turned down to match the larger saw blade first. The next job was to turn down the shaft to match the smaller saw blade and diamond wheel. When coming to trial fit them though the diamond wheel is actually a few 'thou' smaller so whilst it may no be obvious to the eye in the photos the front part of the shaft is actually smaller.

The Saw holding pulley with the bearing housing bored out.....







All the blades etc. on the pulley....but they will only be used one at a time though!!!







The saw located in its position................


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## Metal Mickey (May 8, 2009)

My time on the workshop has been a little intermittent over the last couple of weeks but I have been able to get out there to make some progress on the saw table. I have converted the shaft of the motor to take a Myford gear by milling a slot in the shaft to accept a keyway and drilled and tapped the end of the shaft so I can secure the gear. 

I have also made three pulleys, one of which is the important pulley that will hold the 2 saw blade sizes and the diamond grind stone. However I have decided today to make a separate pulley for the diamond grit stone. I have had to do this since assembling the pulley with the saw blades my initial idea to hold the blade on was to secure the pulley to its shaft and have a washer between the end screw and the blade. This didn't work on trialing it so I decided that I would thread the outer part of the pulley (see photo's) which meant the seating for the smallest item (the grinding wheel) would disappear but I want the blade to stay on and not spin past my ear!!!






Fortunately the diameter of the end of the pulley was suitable for a 10mm thread and a corresponding nut was made by threading some 1 diameter brass then making two flats opposite each other that will allow a spanner to be used in conjunction with a brass spacer. I must admit I was very pleased with the results and either blade can be held very securely.

With all three pulleys and their shafts completed the focus now is on the fittings for the back plate. The brass insert for the shaft that drives the rest and on which a gear is held has been completed and the saw arm and saw pulley slot with it radius has been cut but there is still work to be done before fitting to the back plate. Another similar slot to the gear pulley needs to be made as well. When those items have been tackled next and fitted I will be able to finalise the belt size and test out the speed to the blades.






Once the moving parts as it were are working fine I will then cut the teeth on the saw arm and the height quadrant (yet to be made) before making the threaded parts to move the quadrant and therefore saw adjustment. 

Next week though I will be working on the Fowler traction engine before returning to the saw table the following week. I have decided to try to work on one of my three main projects (the pair of Seal engines, Fowler traction engine and saw table)for a week then back to one of the others. Whether this works will depend on my health though and how much time I can spend in the workshop. Life as ever is always a compromise.


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## Metal Mickey (May 14, 2009)

Whilst I decided before the week started that I would concentrate on the Fowler traction engine I felt I would do a little more on the saw table since I havent been able to spend much time recently due to health issues. The plan to move onto the Fowler was on the understanding that I would be further ahead with the saw.

However, on Wednesday I managed to complete the basic elements of the tensioning system, needed because of the adjustment I wanted to build into the design to allow the blade height and type to change. Because I am using aluminum for the body of the saw I decided to use brass wherever wear is to be expected. 

The first part made was the inset that will fit on the back plate. It has two slots milled into it. One goes through and the other forms a seat for the pulley block (see photo).






To tension the belt there will be a handle which turns a threaded rod through a fixed screw block. The rod goes through the T shaped block on which the shaft for the tension pulley sits (see photo). To allow the T block to move in both directions I will fit 2 E clips either side. 






You can see one end has been done already. After the tension has been set the block will be secured by tightening the pulley shaft against the back plate. Whilst only two parts were made that has been a great improvement over the past couple of weeks .

Today I decided to start work on the height adjustment mechanism for the blades or diamond cutting disc. The start or which was sourcing some suitable steel to make the quadrant. I seem to be well stocked when it comes to non ferrous materials but poor for steel and the like. I eventually came upon a piece of angle iron that was just under size but would do so using the bandsaw one side was quickly removed and the remaining piece cleaned up.

To cut the radius required for the teeth the rotary table was used on the milling machine. The only cutter I have matches the Myford gear profile and will be used to create the teeth both on the saw arm and the quadrant. The radius for the quadrant was decided upon by matching a Myford gear to the profile that will fit the available space. This method has the benefit of defining the number of teeth although I will only cut 90° worth I need to have the right dividing plate on the Vertex indexing tool. In this case the divisions need to allow for 55 teeth.

The saw arm will however require only division to be found for 28 teeth (again only 90° worth will be cut). To calculate the gearing I made use of two publications namely Model Engineers Handbook by Tubal Cain (3rd Edition) and Ivan laws useful book Gears and Gear cutting in the Workshop Practice Series (number 17). 

As a side issue I have been putting together a spreadsheet using the formula in both books for my future use covering various situations such as number of gears, their size, and number of teeth etc that can fit within a given space.

When the bugs have been ironed out I will put it on my website for downloading if anyone wants it. 
The picture below shows the progress achieved in the short session I managed today.


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## itowbig (May 15, 2009)

looking good . very cool tool


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 5, 2009)

Thanks for your comment itowbig.

Today was a day of heat in the workshop. Fisrt chance for a while to get into the workshop and I took the opportunity to see if the Durafix aluminium welding system ( for more detail visit the following...)would join the two parts of the saw table together. As it turned out it did the job very well. I nervously and lightly tapped the two parts when the cooled down, gradually increasing the weight of blow until I gave up! I am confident that the parts are secured.






Durafix aluminum welding.

I have decided that when it comes to fix the parts together that Durafix will form part of the methodology i shall use.

I then thought that since I had the kit out that I would silver solder three pins for the Fowler (two for the rear wheels) and I thought I would treat myself to a new stick of silver solder. I also got out a large tub of 'silver solder flux' bought from a local steel supplier and wished I never had! Whether it was the silver solder or the flux (or both) the normally simple job did not work well. So I have put them in the pickle solution and will see how well the solder flowed when the parts are cleaned up.








Silver soldering but is there a problem?

The day couldn't let me have two winners could it!


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 7, 2009)

Today was another short session but at least it was a session! I continued to work on the handle assembly for the belt tensioning system.

After turning down the brass for the main part (its the nicest cutting brass I have ever used) the centre was centre drilled, drilled and tapped to suit the studding. I am not impressed with one aspect of my design however and will decide on whether to amend it now or see how the whole assembly pans out.

I have thought of a solution to the problem but may wait to implement it. The design fault centers on the handle which moves away from the saw table when in use. My solution will be to make a fork which then fits into a grove that will need to be cut on the handle boss and the fork secured to the saw table. That would allow the handle to stay in place and the studding would pass through its centre.

I did consider remaking the brass block which moves in the slide and holds the pulley, but the studding would need to pass through it instead. I prefer the fork option at the moment but will see how it all works in operation before making a decision. The next piece made today was the handle and I decided to make it from aluminum as a contrast to the brass and turned a taper towards the handle.

This was then clearance drilled to suit a 6mm bolt. The final task was to drill and tap a hole for a grub screw in the boss which will secure the handle assembly on the studding. That completed the handle.











The next picture is a summary really of where the project is.......






The next session will focus on making the assembly to adjust the height of the saw blade. I may use a similar set up to the belt tensioning system but will think about it overnight. If you would like to see a larger picture just click on the one your interested in.


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 7, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> The day couldn't let me have two winners could it!



I quit on winners. I quit on losers too. Makes for short days at work. :big:

Looks great!


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 7, 2009)

Many thanks zeeprogrammer. (great name by the way)


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## RobWilson (Jun 7, 2009)

Very interesting project MM nice work,looks like it will be a handy tool to have in the shop


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 8, 2009)

Today I managed to make the basics for the mechanism to adjust the blade/grinding wheel height. It consists of a bracket with a slot in it that holds the brass adjusting wheel. This bracket will be secured to the back plate of the saw table and because the wheel is trapped between the forks of the bracket by turning the knurled wheel the studding will advance or retract accordingly. Below are some photos......

Not exactly CAD eh!






The basic idea can be seen here. Only the linkage to resolve.







What remains to be sorted out is a linkage between the end of the studding and the fulcrum lever.Since the fulcrum lever moves at an angle to the vertical position, this will not allow a direct fixing method to the studding. So either I make a pin in the upright with a slot in the fulcrum arm allowing the pin to slide, or a linkage not locked at either end, has yet to be decided. I will make up some drawings tonight (as per last nights bracket design) before making up the part(s) in the next session.

Don't take too much notice of the finish because it will be 'blinged' up towards the end.


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## Maryak (Jun 8, 2009)

Mike,

Your Crap-O-Cad is much neater than mine. :bow:

Looking at what you have drawn, I believe a slot in the bell crank/fulcrum arm may be the better solution.

Hope this helps. ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 10, 2009)

Hello Bob, great minds and al that. I have made a linkage that works but it looks horrible so I will be taking dimensions and remaking the whole toothed fulcrum arm based on the 'lash up'

Didn't manage to get to the workshop today so maybe tomorrow. I'll post pictures then.

Mike


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## Ian B (Jun 11, 2009)

Mickey,

From what I can see, you're mounting the blade on a brass arbour. If the blade slips under load (and brass can be a bit slippery), it's likely that the hole in the blade will chew into the brass, damaging it and allowing the blade to run eccentric.

I've just rebuilt a Startrite table saw, and made a new spindle. The original had a 5/8" spindle, most modern 12" blades have a 30mm hole. Rather than harden the 30mm section of the spindle, I pressed the inner race of a needle roller bearing onto it. 30mm od, 25mm bore, ground and as hard as hell. It fits the bore of the blades perfectly.

Not sure if this would work in your application, but it's a thought.

Regards,

Ian


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 11, 2009)

Thanks for that Ian, I'll give it some thought....What I intend to do now is to complete the build then remake some items that always will need redoing with some use.

MM


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 19, 2009)

Over the last couple of sessions I have made some progress on the saw table project. Today I completed the quadrant for the saw height adjustment and assembled all the parts to date. I decided that the next job would be to give the back plate a little clean up and used a wire brush in the milling machine to polish off the marks that naturally occur when making an item.

Now that the mechanism was complete it allowed me to make up the drive belt which I found more difficult than expected. I tried out the process on a couple of scrap pieces and simply melting the ends produced all sorts of results. After some practice I managed a reasonable result that allowed me to make a good joint on the proper belt.
When running the system for the first time I was pleased that all turned as expected and the drive from the belt worked with varying tension settings. After 30 seconds or so the whole thing stopped dead. The pulley that holds the gear wheel on has seized up. 

On investigation the bolt holding the pulley on had tightened itself up sufficiently enough to stop it. The design was not meant to rely on any securing method to impact on the pulley turning. I had turned the shaft so that it extended beyond the brass pulley and in theory it should have worked. When looking at the problem further I thought that perhaps I had not left enough showing and all sorts of ideas came to mind particularly taking some of the pulley width off. However the answer was simply to change the washer on the end of the shaft from one that covered the whole bearing to a much smaller one that only covered the end of the inner shaft. 
http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/brixham-engineer/saw%20%20table/19062009sawtable002.jpg/img]


This cured the problem so the motor was started again and run for a couple of minutes before the saw blade stopped again. This time it was the pulley that holds the saw blade that had seized. Looking closely it was the shaft that was binding and I simply took a couple of thou off the end of the shaft being careful not to reduce the shaft part that the bearing sat on.

[IMG]http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/brixham-engineer/saw%20%20table/19062009sawtable002.jpg

The motor was started again and all ran as it should do. I then varied the height of the blade to the two extremes and tensioned the belt to suit. All ran well and I will now be able to cut the studding used for the blade adjustment.
Suitable pleased I thought I would make a start on the top plate and soon produced the first part of the top with the slot for the diamond grit and two sizes of saw blade to fit in. This was placed in situ and I thought I would just try the blade to see how it would cut. I am glad I did since I will have to ensure that any clamping system will take into account the kick back effect found when cutting some brass sheet.

I then tried a ¼ diameter steel bar and you can see the results in the pictures. It wasnt really a proper test since the bar wasnt held properly but it actually cut better then the brass sheet. I have no doubt about the blades ability to cut. Then I tried the end of the HT steel that bar that started the whole project and was really pleased to see the small cut that appeared in the end of the bar! It will cut it and thats good news.

So todays session really is the beginning of the end.

To make a change I thought I would show a short video....don't forget there is a lot more to do yet!




"http://www.youtube.com/v/wtg0Qh0peeg&hl=en&fs=1&"


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## Maryak (Jun 19, 2009)

Mike,

I can't see the images or video in your latest post. Not sure if it's me but the still says image deleted and the video is only a set of quotation marks.

I would like to see what you've been up to. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## Hilmar (Jun 19, 2009)

MM 
   Ben using a carbide saw as slitting saw for years. Using the thing for steel on down to brass and alu. 
But only in the mill with steel and brass. I would not think about using it as you have in mind.
 I can tell you with steel when you down at the last 10 thousand that piece comes flying off with no mercy.
  You can search under slitting saw and see the blade right there.
   be care full MM

Hilmar ??? ???


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 20, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Mike,
> 
> I can't see the images or video in your latest post. Not sure if it's me but the still says image deleted and the video is only a set of quotation marks.
> 
> ...



Hello Bob, the images and video shows on mine so i don't know. Also it seems Hilmar has seen the images and video......




			
				Hilmar  said:
			
		

> MM
> Ben using a carbide saw as slitting saw for years. Using the thing for steel on down to brass and alu.
> But only in the mill with steel and brass. I would not think about using it as you have in mind.
> I can tell you with steel when you down at the last 10 thousand that piece comes flying off with no mercy.
> ...



Hello Hilmar. I agree with you that safety in use is an issue. As I said in my text the trial has emphasised the importance of the clamping system. The ideas I have for holding the piece to be cut securely are still being formulated but will be based on 't' slots and a lead screw advancing vice so both sides ot the piece to be cut will come out the other side still being clamped. 

Time will tell but if I cant get the work holding system sorted out I won't be using it! However I love a challenge and that's what the project is all about really, problem solving. Used as is then it is an accident (and a nasty one at that) waiting to happen because the blades can certainly kick back!

What I would like to say in my defence is that it is still evolving and there will be a safety guard for the blades as well the workholding system. I would not recommend using the saw in its as yet uncompleted state.


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## Hilmar (Jun 20, 2009)

Right on Mike.
One thing i can tell you right now,they sure cut nice and smooth. 
Some times you could use the piece as is.
Hilmar


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## Maryak (Jun 20, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/brixham-engineer/saw%20%20table/19062009sawtable002.jpg/img]
> 
> 
> [IMG]http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/brixham-engineer/saw%20%20table/19062009sawtable002.jpg



Mike I get the video, and very nice too but above is what I get for the still



> http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/brixham-engineer/saw%20%20table/19062009sawtable002.jpg/img][/quote]
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob


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## itowbig (Jun 20, 2009)

i would really think about some way to secure the work piece in a vice of some sort that could be mounted to the table and moved with a handle of some sort . i just had bad visions of the metal coming at me and through me. brings back bad memory's of the skill saw and the steel fence post. that thing will kick out hard. please be careful. i remember that skill saw kicking back with a force that i could not hold. all i could do is let it flow by me with strong guidance from my arms and hands. maybe if it turned slow it might help too. 
but i like the way it coming along


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 21, 2009)

A short session today in the workshop and I didnt feel up to doing anything major or critical. Overnight I had been thinking about the saw table project and a moment of possible inspiration came when I wondered what a normal slitting saw would be like in use on the saw table?

When I had a look at the saw pulley it was turned to 1 diameter and of course the slitting saws I have are 1 bore! So I decided to spend my time working out how to fit the slitting saw to the existing pulley rather than turn another (I also didnt have another bearing). The answer I thought of was to make a washer that would seat against the pulley and have a large 1 ¼ diameter outside.







So it was over to the lathe and turn the required washer (see photo) and then see if it worked. I also needed to have a larger washer to sit in front of the slitting saw so I could use the same securing nut. 

I was really surprised when trying the saw out with some brass sheet just how good it was! Now you may have been ahead of me but for sheet work I believe the saw table will be a great asset (for straight cuts only) and a real bonus for the project!

I also had a fiddle with some of the pulleys to get them running for a long period and called it a day surprised with the advance in usability of the project which is already good. Next will be to try the diamond grindstone and what sort of fittings I will need to make to grind turning tools. Once this trial period has been completed I will fit the top and bottom sheets to the back plate and securing everything together.

For the work holding I intend to cut either two or three T slots along the top table. After making a couple of basic work holding tools I will put the project to one side and get back to building the Seal engines. When I need to use the table I will develop tooling each time to suit the task and over time this should build up a flexible system.






Hello Bob, hopefully the picture you missed will be shown below.....I hope....


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## Maryak (Jun 21, 2009)

Mike,

Thanks for taking the trouble to repost the picture. It has appeared in your last post. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 22, 2009)

No problem Bob, anything for you.................

Today's efforts:

Overnight I considered how to make and fit a safety guard for the saw table project. So at breakfast time (0600) I took pencil and paper in hand and roughed out a design that I thought may work. When going out into the workshop my first task was to see what materials I had that could be used for the design.

So armed with some brass angle and sheet brass I started to mark out my design. I must admit it would have been easier if I had made the guard from stiff cardboard as I have done previously but for some reason I forgot to do this until I was a fair way through the making of the guard.

Fortunately the spare blades for the Proxxon bandsaw had arrived from Chronos and it was really nice to cut some brass sheeting with a new blade! It reminded me that the new saw table would be ok for some tasks relating to sheeting (differing materials) but I should forget my trusty Proxxon.

After making the brass back plate for the guard I fiddled for quite a while trying to work out how I could fit it without the guard fouling the blade. I wanted to offset the pivot point to clear the end of the saw pulley but the circle of movement was then moved. In the end I decided to adjust the slot in the top table to give me the clearance required. Simple to write but that was an hour or so gone!

To form the top of the guard I decided to use brass angle and to allow the curvature required I cut slits at ½ intervals using the bandsaw and then drilling holes in the centre of each newly formed tab.

I mulled over whether to silver solder, bolt or rivet the angle in place and in the end thought that copper rivets against a brass fitting would contrast nicely when it came time to add some bling. The brass angle was held in place with 4 equidistant temporary 4BA bolts whilst all the holes were drilled before the inside holes were countersunk so the copper would have somewhere to go. This will help the rivets hold the two parts together.
With the outer part of the guard in place the final slotting of the table top could be done and a piece of brass angle was used to form the pivot bracket. it is secured to the underside of the table top which is where I got to at the end of the session. However I may have another problem to overcome since I made sure the work was done when the largest saw blade is at its highest position. When reflecting on what needed to be done next time I thought that the system may not work! When the saw blade is lowered the guard does not go with it!

My initial reaction is that the guard will still serve its purpose if it sits above the blade but just on the edge so that when it is lowered it does not foul. If that isnt a solution then I will have to rethink how the guard can be secured to the saw pivot arm. And that would be a problem!

The guard will be held in position by a spring once I have the system sorted out. Again, dont take too much notice of the finish of the parts since it will be dismantled when finished and blinged up then.


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 26, 2009)

Today was the first time that I could get back into the workshop for a while so I decided not to over stretch myself and just mill up the locating slots in the twp base and two top pieces. 

To help speed up the process in setting up each piece I used the straight edge of the table to locate a strip of angle iron. This raised the edge up high enough so each piece rested against it and the aluminum then clamped in place. Now this is where the DROs (digital read out) came into there own since once I set the depth of cut and Y axis (I set them both at zero) then it was simple to just unclamp and then replace a piece. The end results were certainly good enough for this application.

After trying the back plate into one slot, the width was adjusted then full steam ahead with an aching arm and back from all that handle turning! I have a 12v windscreen wiper motor waiting to set it up as a power feed but decided that if I went on to make that project to finish this one it would be even longer before I could get back to the pair of seal engines!

After checking that all four parts slotted into the back plate I marked out in the channels the position of holes for the securing screws. These were then countersunk before finishing for the day.

Hopefully the next session shall see me cut the T slots in the top ready for any fixings and the uprights between the base and top cut and secured in place. This will certainly see the last phase of the project come into view at long last.


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## Metal Mickey (Jun 29, 2009)

Well today I manage to finish tapping both top and bottom sets of securing bolts before making a fixture to cut the 16 or so bolts to same size. Once this was done it was over to the milling machine to firstly cut three slots before switching to the cutter to make the 'T' Slots. this is a messy job and certainly made my arm ache. I must get the power feed sorted out!






I also forgot to change the speed of the milling machine and it didn't take long to for me to realise! So after changing the belts to get a much slower speed it all went well but I didn't feel up to continuing on with the long top plate. Hopefully next time it won't take too long to finish the slots. I will then make three supports from brass square bar so I can add a cover (steel) if I feel I need it.


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## Metal Mickey (Jul 5, 2009)

Sessions in the workshop have been few and far between lately but I did manage to have good session today. I managed to get to the stage of fitting the tops and sorting out a few teething problems (such as milling two flats on the saw holding pulley). 

The project now should only have another couple of sessions to complete it. That does not account for the work holding systems butt at least I have designed those for both saw blades and using the diamond wheel for grinding tool steel. Which ones will come first will depend upon what I need at that time. 

The work remaining includes making the sheet steel front and side plates, making a set of spanners for changing the blades/diamond wheel. Making an extending nut to secure the blade at the correct height and finally dismantling the whole thing to clean it up and give it a nice finish. When I have explored anodising a little more I think it would look nice to anodise the top plates. We shall see.

Anyway a picture is worth a thousand words so they say, so here we are

http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r379/brixham-
engineer/saw%20%20table/05072009sawtable004.jpg


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## Metal Mickey (Oct 6, 2009)

It has been remiss of me not to have updated the position on my saw table. It is now in constant use and really is the first major home designed (still cant loose the design and build at the same time, I want to get to using Alibre first if I can)tool that works!

I must admit though that the blade that started the project is no its main use, I found a great blade at my only local tool stockist, Tracy Tools (UK) and during a visit there I saw (sorry!) a slitting saw but with side cutting teeth. They come in varying sizes and are excellent in use. 

The carbide tipped blades are ok for aluminium but as one or two on this forum mentioned, you need to watch for grabbing. Using the side toothed slitting saw at 4" diameter however feels a lot safer to use and is effective on the metal I have tried to date.

The flexibility in use is very good and vindicates (for me) the amount of time spent building it. Since the last pictures posted I have made a steel front cover and the first fixture shown below. Its use for a project I am undertaking (seperate post to follow) for this years Christmas gifts for the family. Last year I made a pair of wobbler's http://www.homemodelenginemachinist...l]34581[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]34582[/ATTACH]


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