# Horizontal Steam Engine



## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

I have been working on this engine for a while now. The plans that I am using were published in the Live Steam magazine which I had a subscription to back in 1984. The project was published in May of 1984. The designer was Mr. Rudy Kouhoupt. 
The machines I am using are all used and old. The cutoff saw which is an Asian import about thirty years old came from a yard sale. My lathe is a 12 inch Clausing about 1976 vintage. It came from a machine auction. The vertical miller is an Index circa 1951. It was a gift from a friend. The power feeds were removed from it but it is very accurate. I don't have a rotary table but I do have a very old Kearney & Trecker 10 inch dividing head also a gift from another friend which fills in as my RT. A small tool grinder about thirty years old and a ancient Buffalo No 15 drill press both from a machine auction round out the machines that I use. 
This is the first engine model I have ever attempted. This is also my first post on this forum so I am keeping my fingers crossed all will go well. Below is a picture of my bench I call the command center.             Jack


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## hitandmissman (Nov 5, 2009)

That should turn out to be a real nice engine. Keep up the good work.


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## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

I am feeling my way along on these first couple of posts. I have the square piece of steel being trued in the four jaw chuck. I plan on cutting one half of each wheel for the first step.


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## 4156df (Nov 5, 2009)

Jack,
That's a great start. Super photos, super write-up. Thanks for sharing. Always fun to watch one of Rudy's engines come together.
Dennis


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 5, 2009)

Welcome to the forum Jack.
If you get a chance, maybe post something in the Welcome thread and tell us more about yourself.
But anyway...great start and looking forward to more.


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## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

Starting to do some turning. Using an old carbide cutter that has been hanging around here to do the rough cuts.








I am going to switch to a highspeed tool bit to do some plunge cutting on the wheel blanks. I am holding the camera in one hand to get a time exposure for a spark effect. Oh Oh it moved a little.


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## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

Time to do some drilling and boring. I grind just about all of my lathe tools on the little red grinder.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



The small boring bar will true the inside diameter with the outside diameter. I am following up with a reamer just to clean the feathers out and keep all me holes the exact size.


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## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

Thinking ahead I will be needing a table on my dividing head to make a rotary table out of it. It's that hexagon shape in the four jaw chuck right now. I have mounted one wheel blank with some small holes I drilled in both pieces. The wheel blank is centered by a pin that goes through the holding device. The holes are in a position that will be cut out when the spokes are machined. Each wheel and spokes will be one piece. This should keep my wheel blanks concentric as I finish them in the lathe. Thank you all for your encouraging words. I will put more pictures on later today. Jack


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## kvom (Nov 5, 2009)

> It's that hexagon shape in the four jaw chuck right now


 Looks more like an octagon, but still a nice start. ;D


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## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

Yup!!!! It's an octagon. Here are the clamps I made that will be used throughout the project. This is a scratch build I didn't have any castings. At one point I even made 2-56 long screws on the lathe. The stock is just accumulated odd or scrap ends.




the clamps are holding the wheel blank on the fixture. I have the travel limits set to cut to dept on the inside and outside hub.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 5, 2009)

Hi Jack, and welcome to the forum.

Nice start on you build.

Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I can't seem to find a mention of which one of Rudy's models your building.

-MB


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## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

I have now mounted my rotary table jig in the four jaw chuck on the K & T dividing head. I am truing it up for center of circular motion. Then I will raise it to an upright position.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Next I have it upright and starting to zero it in. You can get a good look at the large K & T dividing head. The final tuning will be done with an indicator.





 I am now starting to drill the six locating holes for the spokes.


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## bearcar1 (Nov 5, 2009)

Hello Jack, welcome. Those old machines are like ones favorite shirt or an old pair of loafers, they are just comfortable and feel good being around. If I may be so bold, my I make a suggestion, I notice that your Clausing lathe has a 'square'-ish headstock as does my South Bend. From a safety standpoint this was not the best engineering idea, as it is all too easy to turn that surface into an elevated table that all too often is utilized as a place to park things such as tools etc. (ahem) Get yourself in the habit resisting the urge to do so, even if yours has what appears to be a recess specifically made for that very usage. If something were to get accidentally bumped or just plain vibrate off that high perch and get launched by the chuck, the end results could easily be at best a new hole in the wall, the worst, well, lets just say would probably hurt a lot. This is just my suggestion for yours or anyones considerations. Thanks. 

BTW, that engine should be a great thread to follow, keep up the good work.

BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid (Nov 5, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> Forgive me if I'm wrong, but I can't seem to find a mention of which one of Rudy's models your building.
> 
> -MB



MB, it looks like the Kouhoupt engine I'm working on now. Rudy just called it Horizontal Steam Engine.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6474.0

Dean


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## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

That's right Dean and MB. If you look at my first picture you can see a photo of in on the blue magizine cover. I have also listed the date and issue in the first post. I retired in 1993 and that was when I planned to build this engine. But other things got in the way so I am a little late getting started. Dean I think that even though you and I are building the same machine our methods are different. Your's looks great. Jack


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## Jack B (Nov 5, 2009)

Hi Jim Thanks for the kind words of concern. I will take your advise and try to keep the top clean.   Jack


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## Deanofid (Nov 5, 2009)

So's yours, Jack. Nice old iron you have in your shop, too. And wow, that's a whackin' big divider you've got there! Nice one.

Dean


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## Jack B (Nov 6, 2009)

I am now setting up the jig to hold the wheel blank. A lot of figuring went into this setup. Each spoke has an outside and inside radius along the side edges of the spoke. All the dimensions are on the print and it is up to the machinist to visualize where to mount the wheel and make the cut. The plugs sticking up locate the wheel blank. To be sure I was in the right place I made a scriber, that fit into the spindle of the miller. I dragged this over the blank to layout where my cuts would be.


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## Jack B (Nov 6, 2009)

I am now making cuts just using the K&T as a rotary table. I have laid out degree stops in chalk on the four jaw chuck . They coincide with the degree indicator at the bottom right side of the dividing head. I have marked the different stops with colored pencils as you can see by the green yellow and pink marks.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Here is a good shot of the cuts being made.


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## Jack B (Nov 6, 2009)

This is a good shot of the progress so far. I left the little extra bump on the spokes so they wouldn't look like all the others. I thought, that shape gave them a Winged Mercury look denoting speed. I also left some extra stock near the inside of the wheel. I hope it will be just raised enough to look like a casting support. I plan to make other comedic changes as I continue the build.        Jack


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## mklotz (Nov 6, 2009)

> I plan to make other comedic changes as I continue the build.



I don't think what you've done is comical at all.


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## Jack B (Nov 6, 2009)

Hi marv  COSMETIC  all the words spelled OK and I missed the last one.
Thanks for pointing it out. Putting these post on is almost as much fun as cutting the metal        Jack


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## Deanofid (Nov 6, 2009)

Cosmetic.. That's funny, Jack. Darn spell checker doesn't know if I mean there, their, then, than, tough, though, thought, or thorough. And that's just the "T's"..

The job on the fly wheel is coming along nice. Nice pictures too. 
I'm working off the same prints, and I know what you mean when you say you have to figure it out for yourself. Rudy just cut the spokes with a saw and filed them. He probably didn't own an RT or divider at the time. I drew the thing out so I could find out where the C/L of the spokes were in relation to the spoke radius origin.

Dean


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## Jack B (Nov 6, 2009)

Dean I have been putting the prints on the scanner and blowing them up. Here is what they looked like when I got through using them.        Jack


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## Deanofid (Nov 7, 2009)

The top right sheet in your photo is exactly how I started, Jack. By the time I got done I had quite a bit of chicken scratching! Similar to your bottom two sheets. We might do it different, but we still do it the same, if you know what I mean.


Dean


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## Jack B (Nov 7, 2009)

Getting the table back on center.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



First inside segment cut out. Just starting second one.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Looks like the machining is complete.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Finished with the wheels.


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## ozzie46 (Nov 7, 2009)

Looking good,
. Those are some fine looking fly wheels.

  Ron


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## Jack B (Nov 8, 2009)

I made this crankshaft which was very easy to do but I changed my mind and will cut one out of solid stock. This one would need silver soldering to finish.




The two base parts are next. They are just straight forward milling, drilling and tapping. I made these a few weeks ago but I had a computer crash and lost some of my pictures. Some years ago I went to a machine shop auction to buy a Bridgeport type milling vise for my Index V.M. While there, I got talking with a former employee. He recommended I buy this vise with the long homemade jaws. He said it was the handiest set of jaws he ever worked with. I have had them for some years now and agree. He also put me wise to a skid of stock they were selling. It was ends but all top of the line. That's where 95% of my stock came from. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



This gage block set will appear in some of my pictures. I bought it at a flea market for about $10 years ago. Almost every bock has imbedded rust on part of it. I just rubbed them gently with a smooth file and the only rust marks now is where it sunk in. The left over rust does not affect the measuring at all. Because they are hardened the file slid right over them. They are really handy for setting my height gage. The two aluminum base pieces are on the cover.


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## Jack B (Nov 8, 2009)

Here is my setup for laying out. That Brown & Sharpe #585 Height Gage cost $5 at a yard sale. I made a scriber for it from a tool bit. The surface plate is just a flat piece of steel stock. I am drawing hole locations on one of the base pieces.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Milling a slot. I have a zero point location for the end mill from the solid jaw and my adjustable stop in the right rear of the vise. I used an edge finder to pick it up. All my dimensions come from the right rear corner of the work.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Drilling the holes. I spot them with a center drill first and follow up with the correct drill. I changed all the dimensions on the print to three place decimals. Other parts will be connected to them and I want good fits.


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## Jack B (Nov 8, 2009)

Hey! It's starting to look like a steam engine. I just propped the crank up with a couple of blocks. I had a little box of bronze bearings and they will be perfect when cut to length.


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## Jack B (Nov 8, 2009)

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Looking good,
> . Those are some fine looking fly wheels.
> 
> Ron


Thank You Ron. I think they will turn out to be the most difficult parts to make.  Jack


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 8, 2009)

Beautiful flywheels Jack.
Why did you change your mind about the crankshaft?


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## Cedge (Nov 8, 2009)

Jack
Excellent work with the curved spokes. Having done a couple, I know just how mind bending that challenge felt when I began. Now that I've done a couple, it all makes sense and the challenge isn't quite so daunting. The will add a lot to the engine.

Interesting to see the different technique employed by Rudy. 

Best
Steve


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## Jack B (Nov 8, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Beautiful flywheels Jack.
> Why did you change your mind about the crankshaft?


Hi Carl: I didn't feel like I did much machining just making a couple of holes and adding some drill rod. I knew how to make a crank shaft with offset center holes so that is what I will do. I never had much luck soldering things. I think it will be fun turning a crankshaft and that's why we do these things. We enjoy a great hobby.   Jack


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## Jack B (Nov 8, 2009)

Hi Steve: Thank you for the encouragement.     Jack


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## Jack B (Nov 9, 2009)

Trimming the crank shaft stock to reduce milling. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Milling to size.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I am milling the slot to get rid of excessive stock at the center journal.


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## Jack B (Nov 9, 2009)

There are two center holes on each end of work. One set for the center journal and one set for the out board shafts. Light cuts makes this work go easy.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Set up to turn out board shafts. Lock in center prevents flexing and spring.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Cutting Key ways in the finished solid crank shaft. I want to be able to remove my wheels easy so I am using keys to drive them. This approach is different then the drawing.


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## Jack B (Nov 9, 2009)

I placed a round piece of scrap stock in the wheel hole and locked it in the milling vise. This will keep the center drill from walking and give me a starting half hole in the wheel hub.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Drilling the key way hole.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Finished key way in wheel hub.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Spacer for crank shaft opposite the eccentric side. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




    Jack


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## Maryak (Nov 10, 2009)

Jack,

Great job on the flywheels. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (Nov 10, 2009)

Thanks Bob. I am having a great time making this project.  Jack


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## Jack B (Nov 10, 2009)

For the connecting rod I used a piece of steel 1/4 by 5/8 by 3 inches. I turned 2 1/2 down to 190 thousands that left a little extra for trimming at the final fitting. I threaded a small section of the .190 end 10-32 thread. This will screw into the crank shaft rod end. I faced the rectangle end to a 1/8 thickness which is being shown in this picture.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Starting to machine the crank shaft coupler. Closest to the size I had on hand was a piece of round brass so I am machining the rectangle shape in the Index VM.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Starting to take shape.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.311 was the size called for. I tried to get every dimension as close to perfect as possible. I want all parts to fit.


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## Jack B (Nov 10, 2009)




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## Jack B (Nov 10, 2009)

Used edge finder to get hole locations.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Center drilling.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Drilling holes. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




One end is already sawed about to cut second half.


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## Jack B (Nov 10, 2009)

Bolting the two halves together I drilled and reamed the hole. Then I turned a boss diameter on both sides.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Here are the assembled parts to date. Complete Connecting rod, cross head assembly with the traveler. The traveler is two pieces on the print. I made it from one piece. The brass guide on the side of the bed is supposed to be two pieces soldered together. I made it out of one piece. There are also two motor mounts at the end of the base.


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## Jack B (Nov 11, 2009)

A piece of squared up brass 1/8 inch thick laid out with a .875 bored hole is placed in the V.M. vise.I am starting to machine it to form a radius. The hole for the rod has also been drilled.







Pick up the center with the edge finder.






Center drill hole for the 2-56 tap.


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## Jack B (Nov 11, 2009)

Drill for the 2-56 tap.






Tap use plenty of air and Cool Tool.






Here is what I am making.


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## Jack B (Nov 11, 2009)

Place in the soft jaws of my 1867 Parker vise and file round.






Yard sale files will be perfect for the job. The rod will be connected later.


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## Jack B (Nov 12, 2009)

Steel blank for the Steel Eccentric is in the four jaw chuck.






Turning step diameter.






First diameter must be a slip fit for the Brass Eccentric.






Shift part off center and line up punch mark with center.


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## Jack B (Nov 12, 2009)

Fine tune with wiggler.






Center drill.






Drill and ream hole.






Set tool bit depth with gage blocks.


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## Jack B (Nov 12, 2009)

Adjust micrometer stop.






Faced to length






Looks just like drawing.






Drill and tap in old Buffalo drill press. Both Steel eccentric and end cap is shown awaiting to be drilled and tapped.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 12, 2009)

Look-in good Jack!

I'm impressed by the way you tap as shown in your picture. You obviously have a good amount of experience, along with steady hands.

Every time I use one of those T-handle-tap-breakers I have regrets.

The way you machined the eccentric is probably a faster and better way to go than my method. I just did one yesterday using a boring head running in reverse. Very slow and tedious! And watching the head spinning out of balance while making an interrupted cut makes me just a bit nervous.

My four jaw chuck is not exactly a quality piece that can be trusted, so I avoid using it.

Keep hitting those garage sales, they pay off with big dividends! 

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 12, 2009)

Very good detail Jack. Thanks for all the pics. It's very interesting!


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## Jack B (Nov 12, 2009)

Thanks Carl I am glad you are enjoying it. This is a total first for me posting progress pictures. Also this is my first ever steam engine. So yours and others comments are important to me.   Jack


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## Jack B (Nov 12, 2009)

Hi MB Many years ago I was working in a very small job shop. We didn't have a decent size 4 jaw chuck. The owner came in with a job for a friend. He had two sets of row boat oar locks. They had to be turned down an 1/8 of an inch on the shaft diameter. I put them in a Bridgeport vise and did what you did. I turned the cutting tool on the Bridgeport Boring Head in board and use a slow feed and light cuts. They were some kind of a alloy material brass I think but they came out great. 
I am very pleased with my Clausing lathe it has never failed me in the years I have owned it. Thank you for the nice comments.   Jack


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## Deanofid (Nov 13, 2009)

Hello Jack;
You're coming right along with it, and well done too! 
The eccentric and strap came out great. It's going to be a fine looking engine. 
Do you plan to run it on steam?


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## Jack B (Nov 13, 2009)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Hello Jack;
> You're coming right along with it, and well done too!
> The eccentric and strap came out great. It's going to be a fine looking engine.
> Do you plan to run it on steam?
> ...


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## Deanofid (Nov 13, 2009)

Hi Jack;
I plan to run mine mainly on air too. It's just the convenient way to do it. 
I do have a small boiler, and may try it with this engine, but I doubt it has enough capacity to run it. 

Dean


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## Jack B (Nov 13, 2009)

Making the brass valve back. Straight forward milling.






Valve face. My wife Claire is using the die ball to square up the hole. After I realized I would have to solder it to the valve back I made a single valve back from a solid piece of stainless steel, no soldering.


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## Jack B (Nov 13, 2009)

The four jaw chuck was on the lathe so I am using it to make the cylinder. This will be a different approach than called for in the original plans. However the dimensions will be the same.






Drilling






Boring using homemade tool.






Important dimension hole gage is just for getting close. I want a close sliding fit on a piece of drill rod.


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## Jack B (Nov 13, 2009)

Extremely close fit on piece of drill rod. Part will be milled square. Drill rod will hold it's bore size. 






Just tight enough to hold part, no squeezing.






Square part one side at a time. Maintain concentricity of bore and counter bore that are complete.






I am checking concentricity of bores to outside square.


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## Jack B (Nov 13, 2009)

Perfect! Zero on all sides.







Right on.






Center drilling holes that are all located from back right corner and screw stop. Machine dials are used for positioning. Drill rod will keep drilled hole from shrinking bore. Because the part is concentric it can be shifted when doing opposite holes. So every two holes only need handles turned once. Cover is already made using same setup.






Laying out second set of holes. Gage blocks are used to set height gage. Layout is just being used to indicate holes are going into the right place.


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## Jack B (Nov 13, 2009)

I use a tapping block for all my threaded holes.






I am very concerned about this operation. I am end milling a break through slot to the counter bore. The mirror is so I can see how my cut is progressing in the counter bore. 






Complete cylinder and start of covers.


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## Jack B (Nov 15, 2009)

Turning down the stock to about .082 in order to make 2-56 threaded rod. I hold the stock very short with about 1/2 inch sticking out of the collet. Second cut is made on about 2 inches of stock being supported by the brass piece in the drill chuck.It has a hole about the same as the diameter I am turning. I can continue this way till I get the length of one screw.






Start of threading with a 2-56 die. The machine is off and I am spinning the spindle by hand.






I now support the first end with the brass jig in the drill chuck. when I reach my length I spin the die off. I then add a couple of nuts to the thread and snip it off.






Threads clean up by running one nut full length and a little wire brushing.


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## Jack B (Nov 15, 2009)

This is just part of a large number of special tool bits I have ground through the years. The one on the right has been custom ground for the grooves in the piston.






Brass stock has been turned to a close fit in the cylinder bore.






Cutting the grooves for the piston rings. I am using the print dimensions. The lathe micrometer stop is being used for spacing.


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## Jack B (Nov 15, 2009)

Piston being cut off with a parting tool. I have already drilled and tapped an end hole to receive the piston rod.







Made to print.


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 15, 2009)

Thanks Jack. ;D I just added another tool project for Christmas time. Something to place and hold a mirror. It seems I'm forever moving around...easy enough with the mill...there's no wall behind it...but still.


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## Jack B (Nov 15, 2009)

Hi Carl: That is one of those dentist type mirrors. It's the type of tool you have in the box for those times you really need it. I was very nervous about where those holes were going to break through. I think I am OK according to the print.   Jack


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## Jack B (Nov 17, 2009)

Drilling the two cylinder covers. Turning was just straight forward but drilling and tapping is more involved.The center of the cylinder was picked up by an edge finder. Center drill is placed in chuck. Cylinder will be used for a drill jig to center drill the both covers.






Position of this first hole is achieved by trigonometry. 






All through holes in the covers will be done on the Buffalo drill press.


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## Jack B (Nov 17, 2009)

The hole for the tap is being drilled in the cylinder. 






A removable locating pin is use to position remaining holes in the covers for center drilling.






Now all holes are spotted and drilled in the covers. Then the tap drill holes are made in the cylinders and tapped. There are four extra holes in each cover so nuts and studs can be placed for aesthetics.


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## Jack B (Nov 21, 2009)

Starting to assemble parts.






Final assembly . I wanted it to look somewhat different then the rest so I made hub caps from some hexagon gift brass. I extended the intake piping so I would not have a piece of flexible hose stuck up in the middle of the engine. This is my first engine and I had a lot of fun making it. This was also quite an experience posting the different operations on this site. My wife Claire helped me with the toy and the posting. My young Grand Daughter Katie got her first experience working in a machine shop by helping me size and install the studs. My son Steve made the videos with his digital camera. Thank you all. Make sure you look at both my videos I think you will enjoy them.    Jack


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## Jack B (Nov 21, 2009)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1EW7Ump_aek[/ame]


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## Jack B (Nov 21, 2009)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz959DN7pI8[/ame]


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 21, 2009)

WOW! That's super nice!

Congratulations on your success! :bow:

I'm being a little humerus by saying that the anvil base sure is a dandy!

Seriously, something similar made of aluminum would add a lot of visually interest.

-MB


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## Deanofid (Nov 21, 2009)

Compliments Jack! It runs really nice!
Compliments to Mrs. Jack too, for the nifty zotrope!


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 21, 2009)

Congratulations Jack. Both videos are great!
First engine too! Wow!


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## Jack B (Nov 21, 2009)

Mb, Dean and Carl   Thank You very much for your kind words. No one was more supprised then me when it run so good. Now the presure is off I will take some time to view the sites and see what my fellow machinist are doing.          Jack


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## kvom (Nov 21, 2009)

Nice runner and all-around build! :bow:

Is the "anvil" supposed to be the permanent base?


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## Jack B (Nov 21, 2009)

Hi kvom:  The anvil kinder got there by accident. I was balancing the base between two angle plates while I was working on it. Then I spotted the anvil on my bench and said to myself that will make a nice base. So it just stayed there.         Jack


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## Maryak (Nov 22, 2009)

JAck,

Very Nice :bow: :bow: I really like the anvil base.

Best Regards
Bob


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## b.lindsey (Nov 22, 2009)

I like the anvil base too...unique but fitting as well. Very nice engine too.

Regards
Bill


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 22, 2009)

I have to admit I hadn't noticed it was an anvil base.
Pretty neat.

Off topic here but...I wrote it down as a possible miniature gift. Similar to Philberoptix's vise for Christmas. Also want to do some miniature machinist's clamps.


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## Jack B (Nov 23, 2009)

Bill Thank You for your kind words.


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## rake60 (Nov 23, 2009)

*SWEET RUNNER* Jack! Thm:

Rick


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## hammers-n-nails (Nov 24, 2009)

thats real nice, your finishes are infinatly better than my first, and last ;D.


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## Jack B (Nov 25, 2009)

Hi Rich: I was away for a little while and it was nice to come on and see your comment. I set everything just as Rudy said to do it in his plans. We put air to it and off it went. I am stiled thrilled. Jack


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## Jack B (Nov 25, 2009)

Hi Hammers N Nails I was over on your post looking at that beautiful project you have going. Your work shows a lot of quality. Thank you for the nice coments about mine.           Jack


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## Cedge (Nov 25, 2009)

Great piece of work Jack. Thanks for taking us all along for the ride. I know the pressure can be high when you're in the spotlight. You took it to the barn in style....(grin)

Steve


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## Jack B (Nov 27, 2009)

Hi Steve. Thank you very much for the compliments. I found the whole process to be fun. I look forward to doing another one soon.
                                Jack B


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## chuck foster (Nov 27, 2009)

jack that is one very nice engine and i love the anvil base :bow:

the best part is the fact that various members of family got involved with the making of the engine and the filming.
that to me would make it just that much better.

so what is next????

chuck


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## Jack B (Nov 28, 2009)

Hi Chuck It was great fun to get the family involved with my project. We spent close to 5 hours to get our video of the engine with the Zotrope just right. It just didn't look right on Photobucket so we decided to switch to You Tube. The results were better but we used up another Saturday morning doing takes. It was a new experience for all of us and we enjoyed it. My wife Claire took on the task of making the Zoetrope and it was like a machining job because the circle had to be the right size to get correct spacing for the slots. I just added the holder. 
I am not sure what my next project will be. It will be scratch built.
Thanks for your comments.           Jack B


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## Twmaster (Nov 29, 2009)

Jack, that's simply marvelous! Nice engine, nice videos. Glad to see you got the rest of the clan involved too!


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## Jack B (Nov 30, 2009)

Thanks for the kind words Mike.      Jack


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