# My single cylinder engine



## borna (Jul 8, 2012)

Hello All, 
This is a new 4 cycle 1 bore x 1.5 stroke with 5.5 cast Iron flywheel.
I'm building this engine from scratch and started this on Feb and worked on it part time from time to time. I almost done like 95% with all the parts so here is a sneak preview.


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## borna (Jul 8, 2012)

More Pictures


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## borna (Jul 8, 2012)

Last picture for now


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## cfellows (Jul 9, 2012)

Going to be a nice looking engine. Is it based on Jan Ridder's 4 stroke design?

Chuck


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## borna (Jul 9, 2012)

That is a very good question. Just searched on Jan Ridder and yes it is him .
I hope he doesn't mind 
I saw an engine in youtube while back and liked the look of it a lot. So decided to make something like that. So basically it based on Jans engine picture but not on his specifications.

Borna


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## cfellows (Jul 9, 2012)

borna  said:
			
		

> That is a very good question. Just searched on Jan Ridder and yes it is him .
> I hope he doesn't mind
> I saw an engine in youtube while back and liked the look of it a lot. So decided to make something like that. So basically it based on Jans engine picture but not on his specifications.
> 
> Borna



Don't think there's any harm in building an engine that looks like somebody else's. Anyway, Jan is a good natured chap and he makes his plans available at no cost, so he will probably take pleasure from the fact that somebody admires his engines enough to make one like it.

Chuck


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## ShedBoy (Jul 9, 2012)

Nice looking engine borna. Looking forward to seeing it go.

Brock


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## NickG (Jul 10, 2012)

Nice work Borna, will be watching this one!


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## borna (Jul 13, 2012)

Thank you all.
Borna


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## borna (Dec 22, 2012)

Ok I almost there. Good compression, no valve leak. All parts are completed. Only thing is left is the ignition stuff. 
Should be able to start running it by next weekend.
Kind of big fly wheel, not sure the best way to spin it?
Does this fits the criteria for project of the month?
Borna


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## gus (Dec 26, 2012)

Hi Borna,

When you get up and going,please post video.


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## Graham (Dec 26, 2012)

Well done Borna, 
Beautifully made, personally I would like to have seen a cutout for the flywheel rather than overhanging the baseboard. Just my preference though.
Graham


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## compspecial (Dec 26, 2012)

hello Borna and congratulations on a job well done! I am wondering if the balls in the cam followers (tappets) actually rotate (like a ballpoint pen) also which method did you use to make the cams? Cheers.
Stew


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## borna (Dec 26, 2012)

Thanks all,
Graham, that is a very good idea. I think I am going to consider a cutout for the flywheel.

Stew, yes the balls are rotating freely in the tappets. For the CAM I made the blank on the lathe then finishe it on the mill with the rotary table.


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## t_ottoboni (Dec 26, 2012)

borna said:


> Thanks all,
> Graham, that is a very good idea. I think I am going to consider a cutout for the flywheel.
> 
> Stew, yes the balls are rotating freely in the tappets. For the CAM I made the blank on the lathe then finishe it on the mill with the rotary table.



That`s a very nice looking engine!  

Are the cam lobes hardened? I wonder if the balls in the tappets could carve a groove in the cam... :hDe:


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## borna (Dec 27, 2012)

No the cams are not harden. Do you think it needs to be?


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## gus (Dec 27, 2012)

For vehicular and industrial engines ,its a must to minimise wear. For this engine which runs for short demo periods,I would imagine it does not matter. Just my "two cents worth".


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## borna (Jan 1, 2013)

All done. On my way to Walmart to get Coleman fuel.


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## AussieJimG (Jan 1, 2013)

So the video should come any time soon?

Jim


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## borna (Jan 2, 2013)

Checked two walmart stores and no Coleman fuel


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## Cogsy (Jan 2, 2013)

borna said:


> No the cams are not harden. Do you think it needs to be?


 
I was always told that automotive cams were 'hard faced'. yet a couple of years ago, when I was building a performance motor for my speedway car, I bought a high dollar brand name cam. The instructions from the manufacturer were very clear that the engine must start straight away on the first start with the new cam, and rpm should be maintained above 3000 for the first 10 minutes.

The explanation given was that the cam needed to work harden on the cam follower contact area and slower RPM would cause shearing and smearing of the cam lobe. It then went on to say the cam followers must be kept in order when the engine was disassembled for any reason, as they would become 'matched' to the cam.

I don't know if the cam had any hardening as supplied, but it obviously becomes harder with operation.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jan 2, 2013)

th_wavawsome job , did you cast the flywheel your self


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## aonemarine (Jan 2, 2013)

the skull and cross bones is a nice touch


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## Gedeon Spilett (Jan 2, 2013)

awsome job on this engine, and pretty good pictures too, clear and sharp, thanks for sharing. 
the flywheel, wow, on the heavy side, I hope it is well locked on the shaft !
waiting for the video.
cheers


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## AussieJimG (Jan 2, 2013)

You could run it on petrol (gasoline) for a while, just to take the video.

Jim


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## borna (Jan 2, 2013)

Found Coleman fuel. Will try it tonight. 
Luc, no I bought the Flywheel and machine and paint it.
Zephyrin: The flywheel is hold by 4 set screws (grove on the shaft to prevent damage by set screws.)
Aone: When I was away, my wife supper glued the skull and bone


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## gus (Jan 2, 2013)

Hi Borna,
Would love to the video of engine running,especially the first start.


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## Ogaryd (Jan 2, 2013)

Hi Borna,
    Check Ace Hardware for Coleman fuel.
                                                                         Regards Gary,


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## AussieJimG (Jan 3, 2013)

You could use petrol (gasoline) for a while. At least to check that it works. And to make a video.

Jim


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## borna (Jan 3, 2013)

Good news is the engine wants to start but the bad news is as its trying to start the flywheel become loose.
I thought 4 set screws will hold the flywheel in placed but I guess I was wrong.
So looks like I got a bad design in placed. Any suggestions that you guys can think of to fix this issue?

This is how the flywheel is hold to crankshaft.

Thanks
Borna


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## kutzdibutz (Jan 4, 2013)

Hi Borna,

my two penny worth would be something like this. Have a shoulder for the flywheel to be bolted against. And then use a feather key (or two) with a tight fit to transfer the tourque. However I cannot judge if your design still allows this. You would not want a crack to develop in the corner, so some estimation of the notch factor would be recommended. As well as the required crossection- you wouldnt want to get too thin there. Would be very unpleasant if the flywheel liberates including a piece of shaft...

Cheers, Karsten


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## kutzdibutz (Jan 4, 2013)

Ah- just discovered the other thread in the questions-corner... So it already got sufficiently discussed...
Never mind then...
:hDe:

Cheers, Karsten


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## borna (Jan 4, 2013)

Thank you all for the comments. 
I came out with a simple solution as how to fix the flywheel.

Look at post #19
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f26/flywheel-becoming-loose-setscrew-used-19755/index2.html

I hope this works ok.

Thanks
Borna


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## borna (Jan 19, 2013)

Hello all,
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQSRTw5B10Q[/ame]
This is a video of the first run after most of the bugs are out. Since this video I have done some tuning on CAM timing, and ignition timing which now run much better and smother. Today I had it running non-stop for 15 mins until the tank became empty.
Maybe I make another video later on showing it clamp down to a table.


Some modification I made after I was finished.
Shorten the length of the tank for a better fuel delivery.
Originally the flywheel was attached to the crank with 4 set screws. Those became loose as soon as the engine was trying to start. Instead I changed to clamp-on shaft collars screwed to the flywheel.
Added an extension to the cam follower which fixed the problem of getting stocked and was causing the belt to slip.


Original carburetor was very very sensitive. Changed to RC 10 carburetor.

Borna


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 19, 2013)

Very nice Borna. Congratulations on a succesful engine. Again I ask, what part of the world are you in? Obviously, somewhere that there is no snow---you lucky guy!!!---Brian


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## borna (Jan 19, 2013)

Thanks Brian
I am from Turkey and live in Florida.


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## robcas631 (Jan 19, 2013)

Great job Borna!


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## Enginemaker120 (Jan 20, 2013)

Nice running engine, but isn't this the exact duplicate of Jerry Howell Power house engine? Why do you call it your own design?


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## kutzdibutz (Jan 20, 2013)

Congrats on the runner! But man, watch your fingers! I'm getting the heeby-jeeby's seeing you handle the engine like this while running - the open crank and open valve drive, the flywheel with the spokes... Can be all very OUCH!! 

Cheers, Karsten


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## borna (Jan 20, 2013)

Good point Karsten. I never thought about it. :hDe:
Now to Enginemaker, why are you saying that this is an exact duplicate someone else's engine? Can you refer me to a picture?


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## gus (Jan 20, 2013)

borna said:


> Good news is the engine wants to start but the bad news is as its trying to start the flywheel become loose.
> I thought 4 set screws will hold the flywheel in placed but I guess I was wrong.
> So looks like I got a bad design in placed. Any suggestions that you guys can think of to fix this issue?
> 
> ...



Hi Borna,
This fix won't last. There is too much shock load.May I suggesst three options as permanent cure.
1. use a taper shaft sleeve adapter with key way.
2. use woodruff key.
3. parallel key.


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## Longboy (Jan 29, 2013)

I tried set screws and got the same results....just don't hold even with 3 pints of Loctite!. A rollpin thru flywheel hub and crankshaft worked real nice here on my I/C engines, just learning sollutions that work thanks to more veteran modellers.


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## borna (Jan 30, 2013)

I was planning to use a rollpin, but I think would be hard if you need to remove the flywheel from crankshaft. But I could be wrong.
However I used 2 piece clamp on shaft-collars and holding very well after total of 2 hours run time.

Borna


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## robcas631 (Feb 1, 2013)

A work of art! I can't wait until it's finished.


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## robcas631 (Feb 1, 2013)

Gus,

Perhaps he can make the shaft out of a single piece of steel? It's not that dificult. 

Rob


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## robcas631 (Feb 1, 2013)

Try making the shafy from one piece of steel.


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