# New ..



## minh-thanh

Hi All !
I designed the engine
Hope I can do it


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## aka9950202

Looking forward to the build.  Will the plans be available to the public? Are they in metric? 

Cheers, 

Andrew in Melbourne


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## minh-thanh

aka9950202!
They are in metric 
About the plan, most of the components have a zero tolerance (the diameter of the cylinder and piston is 16mm, ..) it is more like a Lego assembly than a mechanical plan or engine plan
 I had a friend give me some advice on tolerances ...  (who is a member of this forum), so I'm also planning that when I do this engine I will measure and determine all The dimensions of all details
all the engines I've done, they have almost no plans or only one part, I'm trying to redraw them.


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## Cogsy

Looks great. I'll be watching this one!


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
a lot of time, alignment, setup ... and  lots of patience,.
And :


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## awake

Wow, great results! I can only imagine the amount of time that took.


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## Longboy

An idea takes shape! The engine block....bedrock of all things internal combustion.


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## Brian Rupnow

Minh Thanh--Looks good. May the force be with you.---Brian


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## kuhncw

Minh Than,  You are off to a very good start.  You block looks well done.

I'll watching.

Chuck


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## minh-thanh

Thank you for your compliments and likes!

Hi All !
a lot of time, alignment, setup ... and lots of patience,...and with one mistake and result :


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## awake

Why is it that disaster never strikes until you have already put so much work into a piece, and it is so close to being finished? Or at least, that's the way it works for me!


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## minh-thanh

For the first time and many times later, I made crankshaft : I welded the parts together and with pins,
With many cylinder engines I prefer to make crankshaft from one piece 
Yes, it is almost completed


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update :


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## Cogsy

It's coming along nicely and looking good.


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !!
I have a problem, I drill 4 bolt holes ( M3, 0.5 mm )
2 holes on the outside I can make threaded
The other 2 holes, the taps 3mm is too short and too close
so I would like to ask :  is there a taps longer ?
If not,I plan to weld  3 mm steel bar to make the thread
Actually I don't want to weld, does anyone have any other solution?
Thanks !


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## kuhncw

Do you have a wrench that fits the square on the tap?  You might be able to turn the tap a bit at a time.  It would be slow, but might work.
If you don't have a wrench, you could put a slot that flits the square in a thin piece of steel.

Chuck


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## Longboy

1PCS HSS M3 to M12 Extended Extra Long Shank Tap Select 3-4-5-6-8-12*100 200 300  | eBay
					

Extend Automation.



					www.ebay.com
				




Or....this is a drill bit extender. You can drill a shank diameter size hole in an 8mm shaft for the tap and secure on the square flats or just its shank with a couple of set/ grub screws.


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## Cogsy

It seems you can buy long taps of that size LINK, but I don't know how good the cheap ones will be and the brand name ones get really expensive. I've never done it but it's possible to make a tap from a bolt. Being that this is only for tapping in aluminium, maybe you could make a tap for this one-off job?  There's plenty of tutorials on Youtube, etc. but I don't know how difficult it is.


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## stevehuckss396

I found the price of the long taps to be " not worth it" so I took a piece of drill rod/silver steel and drilled and reamed a hole in it in the lathe. I put the tap in the tailstock of the lathe in a chuck and gave it a good push to press it in. Think you call that a good sliding fit. Haha!! Then I turned down the diameter of the rod on the tap end to .1875 or something like that to clear the wall next to the hole. I now have a 4-40 tap about a foot long. At least until i need that piece of rod more than i need a foot long tap.


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
kuhncw ,Longboy, Cogsy , stevehuckss396 !
Thanks your comments !!

After reading your comments, plus my memory (I remember a long time ago, I did an extension tool, but it's simple), and this time I did it again but and more care and it worked fine.


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## davidyat

*Minh,
   I feel your pain on the crankshaft. I "learned" 2 times on HOW NOT TO DO IT! Then on the third try, using advice from this forum, I succeeded. When doing cranks from a solid round, make biscuits to snugly fit between the webs. Then when you push the live tailstock center in to hold it, the biscuits take up the pressure and you shouldn't have problems.
Grasshopper









*


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## minh-thanh

*Grasshopper* !
Thanks !
I have a question - just curious  : are you doing V8 ? What is the engine type (internal combustion, steam ..) ?


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## davidyat

*Minh,
   I hope this comes through for you. Bazmak made a Chuck Fellows compressed air at twice the size of the measurements and I did the same. I wasn't making gears at that time and I adapted a cogged belt drive system with an idler for tension. Hope the plans open up for you. I hope another attachment opens and shows the V8 running.

Grasshopper*


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update :


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## BaronJ

stevehuckss396 said:


> I found the price of the long taps to be " not worth it" so I took a piece of drill rod/silver steel and drilled and reamed a hole in it in the lathe. I put the tap in the tailstock of the lathe in a chuck and gave it a good push to press it in. Think you call that a good sliding fit. Haha!! Then I turned down the diameter of the rod on the tap end to .1875 or something like that to clear the wall next to the hole. I now have a 4-40 tap about a foot long. At least until i need that piece of rod more than i need a foot long tap.



Actually Steve, that is exactly what I would have done !  Only one thing different, I would have tinned and then filled the hole with solder and pressed the tap home into it whilst molten.  It won't come loose after that.


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update :


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## Longboy

Is your engine block in steel Minh?  What does it weigh as is?


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## Cogsy

That is looking really nice.


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## minh-thanh

*Longboy !*
My engine block is aluminium.


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A update : 
After a moment of thinking, I decided to make a valve seat the way I used to do .


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## Cogsy

I've never seen that method but it looks interesting. Nice idea.


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update : 
I did the camshaft, and assembled it to test ... it seemed to be alright


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update :


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## CFLBob

Added this to my watch list.


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update : 
Today, I clean and assemble the parts together, and do the key to adjust the valves


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update :


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update : 
I just tested my engine,It runs but it does not run well
A good signal


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## CFLBob

Congratulations!  

I'm sure you'll figure out how smooth it out and keep it running.


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## BaronJ

Thanks for the video !

It does sound a little splashy, almost as if its missing a spark occasionally, or a valve sticking.

Anyway it looks very good and much much better than anything I could achieve.


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## minh-thanh

*CFLBob !*


CFLBob said:


> I'm sure you'll figure out how smooth it out and keep it running.


You seem to trust me to be able to solve the problem too much 
Thanks .

*BaronJ !*


BaronJ said:


> It does sound a little splashy, almost as if its missing a spark occasionally, or a valve sticking.


You are correct, a spark is sometimes lost
I'm checking the spark, the time and something,,,,,
Thanks .


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## Longboy

It's a runner! Now you get to the tuning and tweaking and get it to run at its best and add some exhaust pipes. Nice solid design. CONGRATS Minh!


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## Cogsy

Congrats on the build. A bit of tuning and I'm sure it'll run beautifully.


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
Update :
With a lot of adjustments, my engine runs ok, now I will make pump and the radiator

To be continued...


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
I'm back
I make a water pump and test it
It's ok , I'll make a new water pump based on it


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update :








I just tried: exhaust pipe
it's aluminum, and it's really hard to weld to me


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## CFLBob

I don't know what to call the two big pieces that look like a support with the big triangle cutouts, but those look great!  The before and after pictures capture the amount of work you did.   

Looking good.


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## minh-thanh

Hi 
*CFLBob*



CFLBob said:


> I don't know what to call the two big pieces that look like a support with the big triangle cutouts, but those look great!  The before and after pictures capture the amount of work you did.
> 
> Looking good.


Yes , it is a support for engine .
Thanks for the compliment.

Hi All !
A little update : 
I change the way to make the exhaust pipe :


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
A little update 
With many changes and :






















Sometimes I wish I could do an engine this way: Cut and Paste !


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## Cogsy

It's looking great. Nearly time for start up?


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## minh-thanh

*Hi   Cogsy !*


Cogsy said:


> It's looking great. Nearly time for start up?



 not yet  , maybe about 2, 3 weeks from now,.

Hi All !
A little update :


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## CFLBob

Looks good.  

How do you get the radiator fins to stay in place?  Are they soldered or something?


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## minh-thanh

Hi   *CFLBob !*


CFLBob said:


> How do you get the radiator fins to stay in place?  Are they soldered or something?


They are just pressed together . I use little w40 oil to pressed them


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## CFLBob

minh-thanh said:


> They are just pressed together . I use little w40 oil to pressed them



I was thinking that, I just had no way to tell.


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## Clive

minh-thanh said:


> *Hi   Cogsy !*
> 
> 
> not yet  , maybe about 2, 3 weeks from now,.
> 
> Hi All !
> A little update :
> View attachment 120713
> View attachment 120714


How have you kept the fins in place. Doesn't look soldering work ?


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## minh-thanh

Hi *Clive  !*


Clive said:


> How have you kept the fins in place. Doesn't look soldering work ?



I purposely made the fins and tubes tightly  , so when pressed together they would stay in place.
Just fine-tune it with a tool like in the picture


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## bob shutt

For the peewee i made spacers and slid them on the two outermost tubes.


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## dethrow55

well done, sharp looker.


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## Clive

minh-thanh said:


> Hi *Clive  !*
> 
> 
> I purposely made the fins and tubes tightly  , so when pressed together they would stay in place.
> Just fine-tune it with a tool like in the picture
> View attachment 120736


That's a good tool and removes the soldering issue altogether !


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## Wizard69

I'm a little late to this thread but man what a great build!!!!!   I hope to see a posting soon with the whole engine sitting on a stand.

As to the issue of tap clearance much earlier in the thread I'v had similar issues at work in the maintenance of equipment.    First if you are looking fo along taps they are commonly called pulley taps in the USA.   As noted they are expensive but worth it if you have a lot of jobs that need a specific tap size if not you have to improvise.   Some ways to improvise:

The extension shaft trick is well known but my twist on this is to use Loctite to hold the tap in place.   This allows for a reasonable amount of clearance to slide the tap in.    Depending upon the Loctite used you can have a working tap in as little as an hour.    More importantly no heat related issues, even if you need to apply a bit of heat to replace the tap.   Also you don't need to go that big on the shaft size 1/2mm walls can handle the smaller trap just fine.
Now some may barf at this idea but a common wrench on the tap can work if you have a way to hold the tap vertical and steady it.   Usually this means a finger on the top of the tap to steady and a really short wrench to maintain feel.   With care you can tap difficult to get to items especially ones that don't allow for an extension.   You may have to make a wrench though to fit the taps square end.     
plastic tubing (air line tubing) can work if you have it in a size that can allow for the tap to be pressed in.   This is likely an act of desperation but if you have no other way to get the tap with a driver it can work with small taps.   It works better to clean up existing threads and you still need a hand or fingers on the tap to guide the tap square.   Basically you have a flexible shaft.
Go down to the local hardware store and buy 1/4" or 3/8" drive extensions for ratchets.   Cut off the male square end, drill and face for the tap of interest.   The female sock allows you to use common mechanics tools (ratchets, breaker bars, screw driver handles & etc) to run the tap in and out.    This can be a quick and dirty way to get an extension without the extra work of fabricating a shaft and a way to drive it.    Often these extensions can be found on sale new but more importantly they are dirt cheap used.    Thrift stores are the place to look and the cheap ones made of cheese steel are easy to drill.    Basically an extension shaft with support for mechanics tools built in.


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## ShopShoe

I can add:

If you are not talking about really small taps, you can use an 8-point socket on an extension to turn the tap. I use a T-type handle on the other end of the extension.

--ShopShoe


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## minh-thanh

Wizard69 said:


> I'm a little late to this thread but man what a great build!!!!!   I hope to see a posting soon with the whole engine sitting on a stand.



Thanks !
I'm having trouble with the pump,
The pump is controlled by camshaft, I change something to make the pump speed more "suitable"









Wizard69 said:


> As to the issue of tap clearance much earlier in the thread I'v had similar issues at work in the maintenance of equipment.    First if you are looking fo along taps they are commonly called pulley taps in the USA.   As noted they are expensive but worth it if you have a lot of jobs that need a specific tap size if not you have to improvise.   Some ways to improvise:
> 
> The extension shaft trick is well known but my twist on this is to use Loctite to hold the tap in place.   This allows for a reasonable amount of clearance to slide the tap in.    Depending upon the Loctite used you can have a working tap in as little as an hour.    More importantly no heat related issues, even if you need to apply a bit of heat to replace the tap.   Also you don't need to go that big on the shaft size 1/2mm walls can handle the smaller trap just fine.
> Now some may barf at this idea but a common wrench on the tap can work if you have a way to hold the tap vertical and steady it.   Usually this means a finger on the top of the tap to steady and a really short wrench to maintain feel.   With care you can tap difficult to get to items especially ones that don't allow for an extension.   You may have to make a wrench though to fit the taps square end.
> plastic tubing (air line tubing) can work if you have it in a size that can allow for the tap to be pressed in.   This is likely an act of desperation but if you have no other way to get the tap with a driver it can work with small taps.   It works better to clean up existing threads and you still need a hand or fingers on the tap to guide the tap square.   Basically you have a flexible shaft.
> Go down to the local hardware store and buy 1/4" or 3/8" drive extensions for ratchets.   Cut off the male square end, drill and face for the tap of interest.   The female sock allows you to use common mechanics tools (ratchets, breaker bars, screw driver handles & etc) to run the tap in and out.    This can be a quick and dirty way to get an extension without the extra work of fabricating a shaft and a way to drive it.    Often these extensions can be found on sale new but more importantly they are dirt cheap used.    Thrift stores are the place to look and the cheap ones made of cheese steel are easy to drill.    Basically an extension shaft with support for mechanics tools built in.





ShopShoe said:


> I can add:
> 
> If you are not talking about really small taps, you can use an 8-point socket on an extension to turn the tap. I use a T-type handle on the other end of the extension.
> 
> --ShopShoe



lots of useful information .
Thanks !


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
Update : 
With multiple tests (with unit running like camshaft speed, I don't test the impeller on the engine)
And I have ok impeller


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## minh-thanh

Hi Everybody !
My project is completed :











*Thanks for the comments, compliments, encouragement, and "Like" !
Thank you forum !*


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## aka9950202

We would like to see it running.  

Congratulations on a fine looking engine.

Cheers, 

Andrew in Melbourne


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## ShopShoe

Congratulations.

Your latest engine is beautiful to look at. I am sure it looks and sounds even better running.

I hope you can provide a video.

Thank You for posting,

--ShopShoe


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## CFLBob

Awesome!  

Aside from the video everyone asks about, I'd like to know how big is it?  From the radiator to back of the bell over the flywheel, is that like a meter long?  Half a meter?  Any sizes you can give would help.  Approximate numbers are fine.


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## minh-thanh

Hi All !
Video :




CFLBob said:


> Awesome!
> 
> Aside from the video everyone asks about, I'd like to know how big is it?  From the radiator to back of the bell over the flywheel, is that like a meter long?  Half a meter?  Any sizes you can give would help.  Approximate numbers are fine.


Hi
  Length: 330 mm
  Height (from aluminum base to radiator): 200 mm
  Bore and stroke: 16mm
  Fuel: gasoline


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## CFLBob

For my fellow statesiders, that's just over 5/8" bore and stroke (0.630).  

That's 0.2 cubic inches (really 0.196) and 0.8 for the engine.


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## Longboy

A nice presentation Minh. Smooth at low RPM.  Quiet running too. ---  Dave


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## awake

Lovely!


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## werowance

Minh-Thahn,  i am very very impressed. that is a very nice engine and WELL DONE!  thank you very much for sharing the build with us.  sort of reminds me of a flat head farmal cub engine?


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## Sprocket

Looks good, Sounds good, what more can you ask!
Doug


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## teeleevs

Well done my friend, congratulations.
Ted from down under


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## Steamchick

I agree with everyone: WELL DONE ON A SPLENDID MODEL!
K2


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## minh-thanh

Making an engine that it can run is a happy .
And happier when  you also like it.
Thank you so much !


werowance said:


> sort of reminds me of a flat head farmal cub engine?


Here is an image of the engine model
Morris Engine 1923
My friend sends it to me and I make a complete engine for him


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## ShopShoe

I like your engine even more now that I've seen the video.

Thanks for posting.

--ShopShoe


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## Steamchick

Hi Minh Thanh. I guessed your engine was based on an Austin 7 from 1930-ish when I saw your model. I last worked on one of those in 1978... Very similar to the Morris engine.
Well done on an excellent model!
K2


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## simonbirt

Lovely work, a thing to be proud of.


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## kwoodhands

minh-thanh said:


> Hi All !!
> I have a problem, I drill 4 bolt holes ( M3, 0.5 mm )
> 2 holes on the outside I can make threaded
> The other 2 holes, the taps 3mm is too short and too close
> so I would like to ask :  is there a taps longer ?
> If not,I plan to weld  3 mm steel bar to make the thread
> Actually I don't want to weld, does anyone have any other solution?
> Thanks !
> 
> View attachment 115941
> View attachment 115942


I had a similar problem with a 3/48 tap in a brass part. I tried different approaches  and what finally worked was this. I bored a piece of 1014 steel round for the tap. Then soldered the tap in the hole with plumbers soft solder. The first 2" was turned down in the lathe with the tap in place so the wall of the round fit against the brass wall with no clearance. 
Original hole was bored for 75% of thread. I re-bored the hole for 65% to make the threading a bit easier. I tapped the opposite end 1/4/20 x.250 deep for a nut that i turned with a ratchet wrench. This worked for me.


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## kuhncw

Minh,  You've done a very nice job on both the design and the build.  Congratulations

Chuck


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## a41capt

I love this engine!  Beautifully executed, sounds great, so smooth!

congratulations on a great build!

John W


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## the engineer

i love the way you incorperated the camshaft bearings into the main bearing blocks a great runner you should be proud of that


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