# Redwing #1009



## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

Last night I unpacked the boxes and studied some of the plans. At first I was wondering where to start. Its a lot of parts, castings and plans and clearly a lot of work where one cannot afford mistakes.

Looking at the serial number I was also wondering how many of them were successfully completed?  I don't see much on the Forum.

I was also wondering should I share all my built photos on the Forum? Are there any members also busy with this engine?

Well I decided to start with the Bottom Frame and finished facing the bottom last night.

Till next time


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## 10K Pete

That's about as good as it gets, opening a new kit for the first time. Congratulations!! Well, you've started the
build log now and it's too late to go back so your question about whether or not to post is now rather moot.
You simply must continue.

I don't know about any other of those engines being built, but I've always thought I would like to build a
hit-and-miss like that so I will be following right along.

Pete


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## fourstroke

A lot of good information here
http://www.rcdon.com/html/red_wing_engine_project.html
I have one of those kits but havent started it yet
Keep posting your progress
Dougie


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## cwelkie

Good start on your Red Wing.  Please keep posting your progress and pictures ... there are never too many.
Charlie


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## deverett

Also some info here:
http://www.nbutterfield.com/Pages/RedWingEngine.aspx
Although he now charges for a CD with lots of set up pics.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## AlbertdeWitte

10K Pete said:


> That's about as good as it gets, opening a new kit for the first time. Congratulations!! Well, you've started the
> build log now and it's too late to go back so your question about whether or not to post is now rather moot.
> You simply must continue.
> 
> I don't know about any other of those engines being built, but I've always thought I would like to build a
> hit-and-miss like that so I will be following right along.
> 
> Pete



Hi Pete

Thanks for the kind words! Why I wondered if I should paste photos is that I am most probably take a good year to build this engine. I took 6 months on #6 which had its own challenges, but a walk in the park compared to the Red Wing. But we here goes!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

fourstroke said:


> A lot of good information here
> http://www.rcdon.com/html/red_wing_engine_project.html
> I have one of those kits but havent started it yet
> Keep posting your progress
> Dougie



Hi Dougie

Thanks for the information sharing. I must submit that Don Giandomenico is actually the guy who inspired me. After I have completed #5 with boiler I accidentally came across his site one day and there and then decided I want to build those engines also. I ordered #6 and the Red Wing the next week!

Why don't you start yours also and we can exchange ideas?


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## AlbertdeWitte

deverett said:


> Also some info here:
> http://www.nbutterfield.com/Pages/RedWingEngine.aspx
> Although he now charges for a CD with lots of set up pics.
> 
> Dave
> The Emerald Isle



Hi Dave

Thanks for sharing, I had a look. It excites me to think my engine might look like that. I love the woodwork on it also. I got the construction CD from PMR and I think it should do for now. Should I encounter challenges I will certainly order that one also. OH MY GOODNESS, when I look at the cover its the same CD!!!

A blond moment there right!!

Regards


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## AlbertdeWitte

Last night I finished facing of the Bottom Frame. It was most probably the easiest part to machine. I enjoyed once more the auto feed on my milling machine and results are smooth.


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## AlbertdeWitte

I have unpacked the main frame and close inspection revealed that I have some markings from the long courier to South Africa on the side of the frame. I will see how to deal with that later. I cleaned away most of the molding flash, but left the center lines for aligning during the milling process.

The Main Frame will surly the center of attention for at least the next month.


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## vederstein

Albert,

Can you please put a scale next to some of these parts?  It's hard to tell how big this engine actually is.  I have to think that the smaller the engine, the harder it's going to be.

...Ved.


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## Philipintexas

The RED WING is one of the nicest models available and a really nice running engine. I'll watch your progress with interest.  I've done the "MERY" 6 cycle using castings from the same company and they are always top-shelf. I made a plate to attach the frame to that allows holding and re-positioning during the boring of the cylinder  drilling/tapping and then boring the crank journals perpendicular. Since I wanted a nice surface for painting I used Bondo to smooth out the casting texture on the water tank. I used some license in making the fuel tank as I wanted it up top.  
I even "Jeweled" the push rod, I had a lot of time on my hands. I used a motorcycle coil and an automotive relay to simulate a "Buzz" coil and placed a small rechargeable 12V battery in the wooden box.


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## AlbertdeWitte

vederstein said:


> Albert,
> 
> Can you please put a scale next to some of these parts?  It's hard to tell how big this engine actually is.  I have to think that the smaller the engine, the harder it's going to be.
> 
> ...Ved.



Thanks for the suggestion Ved, I will do that.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Philipintexas said:


> The RED WING is one of the nicest models available and a really nice running engine. I'll watch your progress with interest.  I've done the "MERY" 6 cycle using castings from the same company and they are always top-shelf. I made a plate to attach the frame to that allows holding and re-positioning during the boring of the cylinder  drilling/tapping and then boring the crank journals perpendicular. Since I wanted a nice surface for painting I used Bondo to smooth out the casting texture on the water tank. I used some license in making the fuel tank as I wanted it up top.
> I even "Jeweled" the push rod, I had a lot of time on my hands. I used a motorcycle coil and an automotive relay to simulate a "Buzz" coil and placed a small rechargeable 12V battery in the wooden box.



Philip

I am sure I will not be the last one to congratulate you on building that beauty of a Red Wing. I see other details that you did not mention like the pin striping on the flywheels. I love it. If mine can come close to that I will be really impressed!! Thanks for sharing.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I did some work over the weekend. I could not get a base plate to do the milling as suggested so I had to clamp it in my own way. Facing the bottom came out nice. I expected some "chattering" from the cutter but it went well.


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## AlbertdeWitte

I then slotted the base to accommodate the bottom plate for the fuel tank, I decided to screw it using M3 set screws in the absence of UNC screws in my town. I will later on use fuel tank sealant which I have good experience on when I sealed the tank of my plane. It should do the job well. In the same clamping position I drilled and tapped all holes and even fitted the drain cock, so all machining is completed from this position.


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## AlbertdeWitte

My internet is poor today, slow uploading and time out!


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## Pinebeetle

That box of lion matches You have to be in SA


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## AlbertdeWitte

Pinebeetle said:


> That box of lion matches You have to be in SA



Yes indeed Rustenburg


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## Dalee

Hi,

A nice bit of fixturing. I'm enjoying your build very much!

Dale


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## AlbertdeWitte

Dalee said:


> Hi,
> 
> A nice bit of fixturing. I'm enjoying your build very much!
> 
> Dale



Thanks Dale

Will try and posts some pics again tomorrow, network is very slow today


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

I have done some work since my last post. It was a tedious exercise to line up the casting onto the angle plate correctly for it to be fitted in the lathe, bit I think I got it about right.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Then I have setup my newly acquired boring head and boring bar and started the first cuts. I realized I have to cut away at least .2300 which is a lot of work. I would have preferred using a drill to remove most of the access, but in the absence of that the boring bar will have to do. Initially there was a lot of noise coming from the cutter, but once I've cleared all roughness it went smooth.


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## AlbertdeWitte

At this stage I have about .0300 to bore out. The plan requires 1.247 final size and then to be honed to 1.500 exactly.


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## Philipintexas

VERY interesting, I never thought of using a boring-head in that manner. It sure helps to use carbide cutters for the first few thousands, the "crust" can seem like hardened steel sometimes. Looking good.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Philipintexas said:


> VERY interesting, I never thought of using a boring-head in that manner. It sure helps to use carbide cutters for the first few thousands, the "crust" can seem like hardened steel sometimes. Looking good.



Thanks Phillip


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## AlbertdeWitte

Last night was very exiting indeed. I made the last cuts with the boring bar, having inserted a new carbide tip just to make sure I get good results towards the final cut. The plan calls for 1.247. I got it right on the button! Just to make sure there are no tapers I've tested it with a mandrill I've made before I bolted the frame to the lathe. The mandrill is also machined to 1.247 exactly. I passed through perfectly. It is critical to get this portion of the frame 100% correct


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## AlbertdeWitte

While the frame is bolted in this position I've setup the face mill to to face the cylinder. This operation is also going very well and will hopefully complete it tonight.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I have been absent for a while mainly because of other commitments and the down time of my internet, but here we go....


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## AlbertdeWitte

I faced the block and made a carbide cutter to cut the shamfer as suggested by the plans


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## AlbertdeWitte

The next step was to setup the casting back on the mill aligning it with a round bar cut to the inside of the bore


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## AlbertdeWitte

Then I prepared the bearing blocks to the suggested size and parted them with my metal band saw. Take into account I have already setup the main casting right next to it. Luckily my mill had space to accommodate the setup


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## AlbertdeWitte

I then completed facing the casting to accommodate the bearing caps...carefully measure them against the requirements, then super glued them


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## AlbertdeWitte

I use a completely different method than other builders on drilling and threading by doing them one at a time, face mill. drill required depth of the bearing caps. then to drill tread size and thread it all in one position, it might seem peculiar, but its a skill I've mastered building #1, #5 and #6 and it works beautifully


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## AlbertdeWitte

Having set the mill back to 90deg from 25deg I started facing all sides of the bearings bearing in  mind the spacing required in between. This took some heavy calculations. Guys bear in mind most of my tools are in metric and I have to convert all calculations to inches all the time and vice versa. With my metric feeler gauge I got it right on the button. Are there any of you using the HP 41 series?I have two of them and ever since I thought I could do some maths they were always with me. Also note the little mirror method. I was not very impressed with the newly acquired carbide 20mm end mill showing small ships of wear bearing in  mind I've paid about $100 for it. I will return it to the supplier. I have used it at the correct speed only shaving of about .02mm at a time. (.0787)


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## AlbertdeWitte

I then drilled and tapped the fuel tank filler


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## AlbertdeWitte

The last step working on the casting in this position was to mill, drill tap the oiller kit to the casting. I made a special bar first accommodating the required drill size, then drilled it out to fit the 1/4 x 40 tap, all in one position. I am very happy with the work so far


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## AlbertdeWitte

The next step is to unmount the casting from this position and back to the angle plate for the further maching....


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

I could not do as much as I've planned for the week, but I managed to do the setup and measuring, I've drilled first the pilot hole and then drilled and bored to -.0001, then in the absence of the correct reamer I've used my old hand reamer and it turned out great. Still clamped in this position I measured out the bosses for the gear and rod.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

There is some progress since my last post. I had to revert back to my center bar finding the center to arrive at 1.19 required for facing the plug boss. I got that on right on the nose. Then I've drilled, milled the required thread all in the same position. At that stage I have also completed the artificial bolts on the sides of the plugs. It came out nice.


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## AlbertdeWitte

That completed all machining of the casing in this position. The next job was to flip it around on the angle plate and do the fuel line outlet.

Then I did some more cleaning up on the main casting and mounted everything into position just for the fun. LOL I always do that


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## AlbertdeWitte

The next step is to make a mandrill to 2.5 and honing the cylinder to fit. Then it would complete the main casting. I suppose its then on to that crank


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## vederstein

That thing really looks like a royal pain in the ass to make.


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## AlbertdeWitte

vederstein said:


> That thing really looks like a royal pain in the ass to make.



Hi Ved, a lot of challenging thinking and machining!


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## cwelkie

Very nice Albert - you are making good progress and a great job of it!
Charlie


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## AlbertdeWitte

cwelkie said:


> Very nice Albert - you are making good progress and a great job of it!
> Charlie



Thanks Charly, I am really trying very hard.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

I have not done much since the last post due to other commitments but I finished the honing on the sleeve to 2.5 and when I inserted the ring, the ring gap is exactly .004 as required by the plans.

As I said before my next step would have been to make the crank, on Friday I realized I am unable to source the alumina piece to make the crank turning jig and I am awaiting delivery, so my attention has shifted to another part which is the head. I shall post as I go along. Its not an easy part at all.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Well Guys

I have decided that I need more accuracy by upgrading my lathe and milling machine with DRO's to be even more accurate, so I will be shopping around for the items tomorrow, hope it goes well. I also need a DRO on my Rotary Table, but that seems to be hard to find. Its a Vertex. Any ideas?


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## ShopShoe

AlbertdeWitte,

Rather than a readout, consider an electronic (CNC) controlled stepper drive for your rotary table. See this thread on this forum:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=17896

Or, Sherline sells a package (PN 8700) with a rotary table with stepper and controller:

http://www.sherline.com/rotary.htm

Or, you should be able to get the level of precision you need with the traditional method of using indexing plates.

--ShopShoe


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## gbritnell

I've been following along Albert. Just haven't said much. Great work you're doing on the engine. I like you assemble all the parts periodically just to see what it looks like. 
gbritnell


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## AlbertdeWitte

ShopShoe said:


> AlbertdeWitte,
> 
> Rather than a readout, consider an electronic (CNC) controlled stepper drive for your rotary table. See this thread on this forum:
> 
> http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=17896
> 
> Or, Sherline sells a package (PN 8700) with a rotary table with stepper and controller:
> 
> http://www.sherline.com/rotary.htm
> 
> Or, you should be able to get the level of precision you need with the traditional method of using indexing plates.
> 
> --ShopShoe



Thanks very much for the info


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## AlbertdeWitte

gbritnell said:


> I've been following along Albert. Just haven't said much. Great work you're doing on the engine. I like you assemble all the parts periodically just to see what it looks like.
> gbritnell



Thanks you very much gbritnell


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I got my DRO's and scales on Thursday and I realized fitting them is not just a walk in the park. Its a major exercise. I started Saturday and will only finish the Y axis on the Mill tonight, then the X and then on to the lathe. I need to make a lot of brackets to mount the scales. So my work came a bit to a stand still.

So no progress to report for now.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I managed to complete fitting the scales on all machines, it was difficult to make brackets/parts on the same machines you have to work on at the same time. I thought I'd leave the easiest one for last which is the cross slide on the lathe, but I painted myself into a corner trying to fit the brackets. I made a special too to reach in there, at the same time not covering up oilers or the lock for the carriage. Upon completion I realized that the handle of the tool slide bumps onto the scale, so I will have to make a new handle. However I can now start to work and deal with that on another day. I will post some pictures later. While I am struggling with this project at the same time I hardly have no internet at home. Till next time

Albert


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

This is what my setup looks like now and machining should now be much easier.


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## AlbertdeWitte

I heave started on the head last night and first it was cleanup and centered on the bosses. I've set the cutter on the mark, zeroed the DRO and moved it outwards to .515 as per plan calculations and started cutting. I found it very exiting and much easier.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

Last night I completed machining the head to measurements in the lathe. I must say those DRO's really makes a difference and I got it on the button according to plan. Though the plan calls the inside head dia at 1.248 I machined it to 1.249 to fit the sleeve at 1.250.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Then I have setup the rotary table to drill those of center holes to fit the head onto the casing. After finding all the centers I was good to start the drilling, I normally double check my calculations and then I saw a huge mistake. I misread the plan completely. The offset angle 18.73 is shown on the inside of the head and I had it the opposite way. This led to a complete new set of calculations eg -18.43'48' plus 90deg increments from there. It got late so I will continue with it tonight


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## cwelkie

I'm glad you are enjoying the DROs.  I think they are one of those thing we can live without ... until we have them.  Then they become essential.
Good work on the parts - happy your "second thoughts" saved a disappointment. Every once in a while we need a reminder of the value of double-checking; mine usually come with the added "advantage" of being more efficient with the second part.


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## AlbertdeWitte

cwelkie said:


> I'm glad you are enjoying the DROs.  I think they are one of those thing we can live without ... until we have them.  Then they become essential.
> Good work on the parts - happy your "second thoughts" saved a disappointment. Every once in a while we need a reminder of the value of double-checking; mine usually come with the added "advantage" of being more efficient with the second part.



Cwelkie
Thanks for the reply.

Indeed I never knew what I missed, no more conversions from metric to inches. Its a walk in the park moving the bed of the milling machine to the exact spot.

Luckily I saw the mistake just in time. I already marked it out on the head with a center.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Last night was so exiting to drill, mill and countersink the valves seats in the head. A week ago I made a dummy valve just to fit on the head to check the fit. It came out great!!


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## Cogsy

Your shop floor must be far cleaner than mine - I can't get within 20 feet of my machines with bare feet without embedding a couple of pounds of chips in them.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Cogsy said:


> Your shop floor must be far cleaner than mine - I can't get within 20 feet of my machines with bare feet without embedding a couple of pounds of chips in them.



LOL yes I work bare feet in the summer. Workshop is an old little kitchen and I have to keep it clean sweeping a lot.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Last night I finished the head having tilted the rotary table, done the facing, drilling and 1/8 NPT tapping which give me a headache sometimes, but it came out just fine. Again I fitted some of the fittings to see what it looks like.


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## AlbertdeWitte

The next was to line up the head on the casing and to mark it, mount it back on the angle plate, drill and tap. It took time because I had to use my collets instead of my favorite key less chuck. My Z axis space on the mill is fairly limited, but it came out great. Now I will be onto the crank which has its own challenges.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

I have been a bit absent due to no internet. I made the crank as suggested by the manual by making use of the turning jig. All went well up till I had the jig set to cut the journal with my carbide parting blade. It was squeaking like nobodies business and the came loose from the chuck, luckily I had only a few scratches. Then I've re clamped it and realigned for s second attempt. I then decided to make another cutting tool out of HSS with a carbide tip which is more solid. This worked and then I did the keyways. So yes, after some hard work the crank is done.


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## AlbertdeWitte

The turning JIG and keyway cutting


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

I notice that I have already more that 5,500 visits to this thread which is appreciated, however I do not see much responses, who else is building this engine? Share your experiences with me please.

Having completed the crank I moved on to the flywheels and whilst I had everything setup I bored them all including the pulley and gears. I have mad the axle with keyway and the next step would be making keyways to the gear and wheels and the final turning thereof. Again I had to quickly put it together to see what it looks like


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## 10K Pete

Albert, I suspect that a lot of the viewers are like me, just watching and enjoying
the build but not commenting. Which doesn't help you now does it??  The work
you're doing is great and the pics are excellent. I especially like it when you
put the bits together 'just to see what it looks like'. I've always liked the Redwing
and never tire of seeing them. I'd love to build one someday.

Pete


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## AlbertdeWitte

10K Pete said:


> Albert, I suspect that a lot of the viewers are like me, just watching and enjoying
> the build but not commenting. Which doesn't help you now does it??  The work
> you're doing is great and the pics are excellent. I especially like it when you
> put the bits together 'just to see what it looks like'. I've always liked the Redwing
> and never tire of seeing them. I'd love to build one someday.
> 
> Pete



Thank you very much Pete!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I have completed one of the flywheels which took many hours. It came out great. Now on to the next one and then the pulley. Cant wait to start with the con rod and piston. While machining parts with the autofeed on I spend a lot of time on the plans already preparing myself for the next parts. I always ask myself the question if this engine will eventually run. I know of a good couple of people that could not get it right, we will see. Still a long long way from there.


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## cwelkie

Very nice flywheel Albert - looking forward to the next one.
... it'll start; no worries!
Charlie


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## AlbertdeWitte

cwelkie said:


> Very nice flywheel Albert - looking forward to the next one.
> ... it'll start; no worries!
> Charlie



Thanks Charlie

I will hopefully finish the other one today, Done all the cutting, left with polishin it a bit.  I experienced a bit of a problem on the second one with deep pitholes on the edges where I had to cut a bigger chamfer on the edges. This mean I have to do the same to the first one.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All I have completed the flywheels and pulley and another brief "what it looks like"

I am now on to the connecting rod and pin.


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## cwelkie

... and then there were two.
Very nice Albert - so nice that I know I'd be tempted to cover those beautiful shiny bits with tape to protect them from (inevitable) "shop rash".
Charlie


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## AlbertdeWitte

cwelkie said:


> ... and then there were two.
> Very nice Albert - so nice that I know I'd be tempted to cover those beautiful shiny bits with tape to protect them from (inevitable) "shop rash".
> Charlie



Thanks Charlie, I will certainly do that!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

The connecting rod is done accept for smoothing and polishing. It was difficult to clamp the con rod to the bench without bending it, furthermore it is another unmatched casting where I have to improvise. I was upset when my boring head fell out of the collet onto the work peace leaving a dent on the side. This is now the second time it happens to me and I usually put a thick cloth underneath to carry the fall, but this time I forgot. Well I suppose building an engine comes with casualties right? Here are some pics....


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## 10K Pete

Looking very good!

Pete


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## AlbertdeWitte

10K Pete said:


> Looking very good!
> 
> Pete



Thanks Pete


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I notice that there are now about 7000 hits to this thread!!

Last night I finished the piston. I really enjoyed making this part specially when I cut it to specification 1.248 as per plan. It fits the bore perfectly and there are no tight spots. I was not too sure if the honing of the bore was that perfect. I am really impressed with the results so far. Here are some pics....


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## cwelkie

Now the momentum is building!
Nice parts Albert - it's all so satisfying when our hopes and reality match up.
Charlie


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## AlbertdeWitte

cwelkie said:


> Now the momentum is building!
> Nice parts Albert - it's all so satisfying when our hopes and reality match up.
> Charlie



Indeed Charly

I am now onto the valves


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## gbritnell

It's exciting when you can put the bits together and see what it's going to look like. Excellent work on the engine. 
gbritnell


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## AlbertdeWitte

gbritnell said:


> It's exciting when you can put the bits together and see what it's going to look like. Excellent work on the engine.
> gbritnell



Thanks Gbritnell!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Guys, wel well well, I finished the valves today including the washers, realising the insinde oulet of the valve stems catches the springs here and there, I made 2 extra washers, they are small indeed and to make 4 of them excatly the same was not possible without those dro's!! Came out great!! I will post photos tomorrow, cant get it right from my iPhone where I am at the moment...


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## AlbertdeWitte

Here are some photos


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

Last night I made the Rocker Arm and check for fit. Another part bites the dust. Its coming on nicely, I still have about 30 more parts to make and they are mostly very small.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I finished the rocker arm and I am now busy with the gear pin. It is now getting cold so long hours in the workshop will not be possible.


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## Barnbikes

Not to through your excellent build thread of track but I am curious what is considered cold in Rustenburg, South Africa?


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## AlbertdeWitte

Barnbikes said:


> Not to through your excellent build thread of track but I am curious what is considered cold in Rustenburg, South Africa?



Well I am sure it is not as cold as where you are from. We have 0 -13c (32 - 55f) at its worst here, but my work place has a bit of a draft and with the cold south easter blowing through it, it not nice to work there. I am considering heating it though. Thanks for the compliment!!


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## Barnbikes

Wow - I hear South Africa and I think safari with elephants and lions not freezing temperatures. Learn something new every day.


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## a41capt

Albert, I came to your project late, but have read every entry with utmost interest!  That is some fantastic work on a really difficult engine!!!

I can't wait to see the next installment, and of course, the finished product in its first run.

Thanks for the inspiring build!

John W
Camp Verde, Arizona USA


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## AlbertdeWitte

a41capt said:


> Albert, I came to your project late, but have read every entry with utmost interest!  That is some fantastic work on a really difficult engine!!!
> 
> I can't wait to see the next installment, and of course, the finished product in its first run.
> 
> Thanks for the inspiring build!
> 
> John W
> Camp Verde, Arizona USA



Hi there John!!

Thank you so much for the compliment, not just a compliment but what I consider a very inspiring commend.

I am currently working on the gear pin and realized I dont have the 5/16 x 24tpi die nut. On inquiry I could have one supplied at around 50usd and had to wait a week for it. I then decided to cut the thread with the lathe. Then I had another disappointment. The gear setup on the lathe requires a 70 teeth gear and that specific one is not amongst the set of gear. I have ordered that also which will take 2 weeks to arrive. In my anxiety to move forward with the part I came across a set of dies and taps on eBay for 40usd which will also arrive in about 2 weeks. This means I am going to put this part aside to complete later. What is really difficult for me is to build engines in imperial as where South Africa is Metric. One can just not find the right tools here. Eg reaming with a 5/16 reamer is required a lot on this engine where I have to use a boring bar all the time to reach the correct hole size.

I started lest night on the bush for the gear on the same gear pin and did the boring bar thing again as per above. As I was about to polish the bush and part it our electricity went off again.

I will post few photos later.

Thanks again!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

Yesterday I made the gear, nylon isolator, bushings and ignition stud which all had to be precise for press fitting. I had to machine a lot of material off the gear and it took a couple of hours to complete considering the the material hardness.

That means another 5 parts off the list.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I mad good progress since the last post.

It was great fun making the timing lever and I had to improvise several ideas clamping this small part down for correct machining in both the lathe and the mill.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Making the contact stud with nylon bushing. When I looked in the box the small nuts 5-40 were not there. I had to make them.


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## AlbertdeWitte

The next part on the list was to start with the cam and I realized I am going to need many hours for that. I decided to make the fuel pipe and cap quickly before it was bed time..


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## AlbertdeWitte

So here are some of the steps making the cam. The steel that came along could provide enough material to make 3 of them. I suppose because it is a very difficult part they thought of providing enough for a few attempts.

I first cut it to size and drilled through a big enough hole to accommodate the boring bar to the same outside diameter as the bush on the gear. I got a perfect slip fit and clamping down was dead center.

I then had to make a special arbor to clamp down the part in the rotary table. I used the same arbor to align the rotary table to the center of the mill.

I had to do a lot of calculations deducting the size of the end mill I was using to the exact outside measurements as per plan. Thanks again to the DRO it was possible. This part took the best part of 7 hours to make and I got it right the first time!!


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## cwelkie

Some terrific looking bits and pieces there Albert!
Coming along nicely ...
Charlie


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## AlbertdeWitte

cwelkie said:


> Some terrific looking bits and pieces there Albert!
> Coming along nicely ...
> Charlie



Thanks Charlie!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

Yesterday I had some spare time. I made the push-rod, keeper bracket, bearing rod and push rod plate. I decided to use a bearing instead of the conventional cam follower as suggested on the plan.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

Yesterday I had few hours to spare and I made the muffler. It was not easy clamping the outer side in the lathe so I used a piece of brass bushing left over to hold it in position.


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## a41capt

It's looking better day-by-day Albert!  You do some mighty fine work.  I wish mine was as nice!

I'm having a bit of trouble getting my first LTD Stirling to run after any hours of build time. They're so finicky, and the quality of my work doesn't even come close to yours!

I hope you will post a video of it running when it's complete.


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## AlbertdeWitte

a41capt said:


> It's looking better day-by-day Albert!  You do some mighty fine work.  I wish mine was as nice!
> 
> I'm having a bit of trouble getting my first LTD Stirling to run after any hours of build time. They're so finicky, and the quality of my work doesn't even come close to yours!
> 
> I hope you will post a video of it running when it's complete.



Thank you very much. I do criticize my own work a lot though. Should I built another Red Wing I would have done it better. I must submit that I learnt a lot sofar from this project and I do enjoy building it. A friend of mine is into the Stirling engines and has already built a few from scratch. He also had some problems but seems to have overcome them

I will surely make a video of the engine running....one of my worries to get it running still haunts me LOL 

I am now onto all the parts of the governor, more challenges!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

Yesterday I was in the mood for some plumbing so I made the elbow and connected the rest... and of course another look what it would look like photo.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Guys!!

I have over 10,000 visits here, Thanks a lot!!


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## a41capt

AlbertdeWitte said:


> Guys!!
> 
> I have over 10,000 visits here, Thanks a lot!!



It's an excellent project and you do really nice work Albert. Why wouldn't we want to keep tabs on this?

Keep it up, I look forward to each new entry!

John W
Camp Verde, AZ. USA


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## DanLins

Nice work on this Albert! I'm curious to know if the milling machine could have been used on the bore instead of how you did it on your lathe.

Also, what did you use to hone the bore?

Thanks,

Dan Linscheid


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## 10K Pete

I've read every post, Albert, and with great interest. That type of engine is on my
list to do someday.

Pete


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## AlbertdeWitte

a41capt said:


> It's an excellent project and you do really nice work Albert. Why wouldn't we want to keep tabs on this?
> 
> Keep it up, I look forward to each new entry!
> 
> John W
> Camp Verde, AZ. USA



Hi John

Thanks a lot!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

DanLins said:


> Nice work on this Albert! I'm curious to know if the milling machine could have been used on the bore instead of how you did it on your lathe.
> 
> Also, what did you use to hone the bore?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan Linscheid



Hi Dan

Thanks for the question. I certainly looked at the option to use the milling machine instead of the lathe, however my milling machine is just too small and does not have an auto feed on the z axis. The auto feed is critical to get the tolerances correct as suggested by the plans including a smooth result of the bore. Furthermore the little instruction booklet that comes with the engine also suggest to do it in the lathe. It was a major issue to align it in the lathe though and to make sure its clamped properly. Well it work well for me. The plan suggests a bore of 1.480 and then to be honed to 1.500. I made a mandrill to 1.500 exactly and started honing with a normal 1.25 - 2" honing tool rigged in my cordless Bosch drill until I had a "slip fit" from the mandrill all the way through. I used normal paraffin for the process which took about 2 hours to complete. I looked now through my photo collection and must submit that I did not take photos of the honing process. Only the completed work. Hope this clarifies it better.

Albert


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## AlbertdeWitte

10K Pete said:


> I've read every post, Albert, and with great interest. That type of engine is on my
> list to do someday.
> 
> Pete



Thanks again Pete!!

Take it on and build it man, its most satisfying and challenging all the way

Regards

Albert


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## AlbertdeWitte

AlbertdeWitte said:


> Hi there John!!
> 
> Thank you so much for the compliment, not just a compliment but what I consider a very inspiring commend.
> 
> I am currently working on the gear pin and realized I dont have the 5/16 x 24tpi die nut. On inquiry I could have one supplied at around 50usd and had to wait a week for it. I then decided to cut the thread with the lathe. Then I had another disappointment. The gear setup on the lathe requires a 70 teeth gear and that specific one is not amongst the set of gear. I have ordered that also which will take 2 weeks to arrive. In my anxiety to move forward with the part I came across a set of dies and taps on eBay for 40usd which will also arrive in about 2 weeks. This means I am going to put this part aside to complete later. What is really difficult for me is to build engines in imperial as where South Africa is Metric. One can just not find the right tools here. Eg reaming with a 5/16 reamer is required a lot on this engine where I have to use a boring bar all the time to reach the correct hole size.
> 
> I started lest night on the bush for the gear on the same gear pin and did the boring bar thing again as per above. As I was about to polish the bush and part it our electricity went off again.
> 
> I will post few photos later.
> 
> Thanks again!



Yesterday I got my order including the 5/16 24 die I was referring to above so I finished gear pin and it was nice checking the fit and how it clamps the cam lever into any required setting.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Guys

I also completed the collar that controls the latch out bar and governor weights. It is a pure pleasure to use cold rolled steel on some of the parts as provided by PMR. I so wished I could get some steel locally. Its easy to cut and parts like a dream. Once again the DRO made quick work of a precision part.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi All

yesterday I was on to the next part which is the governor bracket. Looking at this little part for some time on the plan seemed simple to make but I ran again into all sorts of challenges. I used the same arbor I used before on the cam to clamp it in the lathe. I machined the one side and flipped it on the other side to machine. When I was almost done I realized I removed too little material on the inside and I had to repeat the whole process again. Once that was done I clamped it in the rotary table and zeroed the line up to do the milling of the arms. That went relatively easy and then I flipped the rotary table over 90deg and did the drilling of the holes as per plan. When finished I de burred the edges and tested the fit. I got it right!! Another part of the list (I must count the remaining ones LOL)

The next parts lined up are making the slots in the flywheel and the to machine the weights and latch out arm. Until the next post ENJOY


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

This weekend I could not spend as much time on the engine as I would have liked to, but I managed to make some progress

I slotted the flywheel, fitted the weight bracket including broaching.

Then I made some more smaller parts like the weight pins, weight studs and the latch out bar pin. They are really small and I had to use magnifying glasses in some places. 

Progress at least!


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## cwelkie

You've sure got the momentum up Albert.  Feels good to check off a part/session for a change doesn't it?
Cheers
Charlie


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## Barnbikes

Did  the original have a spark plug or a igniter? I have seen models built both ways.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Guys

Last night I made the governor weights. I came up with an idea to clamp them in such a way that I was able to flip over the 1-2-3 blocks in any required position for drilling and milling. It certainly worked well for me. I could also not wait to hook them up and see what it looks like. One is a bit on the skew side which I figured out that it was the casting with unmatched edges from the pattern that caused it. I will tweak it a bit.

I am left with push rod brackets and the latch out bar. Then the moment of truth to arrive....striping everything, do all the seals, rings, sealants, gaskets thread locking. I still need to acquire a 6/12 volt battery. Then to mount it on the wood pallets and to see if I can get it running.

Having worked through all of the above and all if well I will strip, clean it and paint. I can still not decide on the color scheme, but I am working on it.


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## AlbertdeWitte

cwelkie said:


> You've sure got the momentum up Albert.  Feels good to check off a part/session for a change doesn't it?
> Cheers
> Charlie



Thanks again Charlie!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Barnbikes said:


> Did  the original have a spark plug or a igniter? I have seen models built both ways.



I am not 100% sure, few picks I've seen looks like a spark plug. Do you have pics on the igniter?


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## Barnbikes

AlbertdeWitte said:


> I am not 100% sure, few picks I've seen looks like a spark plug. Do you have pics on the igniter?



There was one at the NAMES show. It is about 14 minutes into the video.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Sb4dco9gQKc[/ame]


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## AlbertdeWitte

There was one at the NAMES show. It is about 14 minutes into the video.

Yes I see it.

What a beautiful show with fine collectors and builders, wished I could attend it one day.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I have a bit of flue lately so I have not progressed as much as I wanted to. I did some work making the push rod brackets after I had to mount the casing back onto the angle block. The alignment took time and I had to correct about .006 where the mounting on the head was slightly out of line. Then I drilled and threaded the bolts. I am left with shaping them and then to make the final part....


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I made the last part (latch out bar) yesterday. I used again my 123 block and clamped it so that I can flip it over in the machine vise to reach all points of milling and drilling. It came out well


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## AlbertdeWitte

I got exited and picked up speed yesterday putting everything together. (I sealed the tank and accessories Friday night for the sealant to cure)

I made 2 slats for the base out of Oregon Pine, drilled and mounted it.

Then I mounted the engine and started to put oil to all the points.

I temporary hooked the buzz coil, 12v battery with wires to see of there was spank and that the valve and ignition timing is set more or less to requirements.

Then the moment of truth arrived. Upon spinning the flywheel it sputted and started. It would not run for long and I realized I've got a leak on the mixer (this I will have to strip and do fault finding)

I managed later on to have it running for about 10 minutes by controlling the fuel flow with my hand. 

The rings seems to have seated properly and compression is excellent.

I will now do some fine tuning to it, then strip it down for painting.

Some of you might have realized that all parts on the engine is still rough. I needed to see if this engine would run. I will now clean and polish them. So I still have a lot of work but I think I made it. A shear pleasure to see this engine running indeed!!!th_wav


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## 10K Pete

Waahooo! Excellent! Makes it all worth while, Albert!

Pete


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## AlbertdeWitte

10K Pete said:


> Waahooo! Excellent! Makes it all worth while, Albert!
> 
> Pete



Indeed Pete!!! i can't get over my exitement lol


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## RonGinger

Great job getting it to run so quickly. Many guys have spent a long time before it ran. Nice work.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Thank you very much Ron, much appreciated indeed!


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## a41capt

Congratulations Albert!!!

It looks fantastic, and I hope you'll put a video together so the rest of us can hear it run.

Great job!

John W.
Camp Verde, AZ. USA


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi John

I hope to have one soon. I must find the problem with the mixer


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## cwelkie

Sheesh - get distracted for a few days and next thing you know, Albert's got a runner!  Gotta like that.
You've (virtually) completed a challenging build Albert ... bask in the glory!
Charlie


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## AlbertdeWitte

Charlie and all others folling this build, I found the problem with the mixer, for some reason the valve got stuck and resulted in flooding the engine. Last night I ran it at various speeds for half an hour, its smooth and very exiting to see the engine running. I have a few tweaks left and that is the puch rod and latch our bar which is out of sync. 

I will keep you posted


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## vederstein

Congrats Albert.  That's an engine I'd never ever try to make.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Ved if you can build #4 you can built this one, I promise!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Guys

I have uploaded a video on my facebook, search my name Albert de Witte

Enjoy


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## 10K Pete

For the benefit of those of use who don't Facebook (ugh) please post a link
to your video here, please.

Pete


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## AlbertdeWitte

Guys this is the Facebook link:

https://www.facebook.com/albert.dew...724851?notif_t=like&notif_id=1463627836688712

I loaded it up there from my phone and I should be having it on YouTube soon.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Guys 

Here is the YouTube link:

https://youtu.be/-qWIcE_Bl5Y


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## 10K Pete

Excellent!! Runs really well, Albert.  Thanks for the link!

Pete


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## cwelkie

Well done Albert!  Your handiwork runs very well.  Just think, it will only get better with age and more running ...
Charlie


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## a41capt

AlbertdeWitte said:


> Guys this is the Facebook link:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/albert.dew...724851?notif_t=like&notif_id=1463627836688712
> 
> I loaded it up there from my phone and I should be having it on YouTube soon.



Fantastic Albert!  She's a beauty!!!  &#128512;


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## AlbertdeWitte

Pete, Charlie and a41capt

Thank you very much!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

Saturday I did the final touches, mounting the battery in the engine frame, fixed down the Buzz Box and did the wiring. Then I let let her run for another hour or so, tweaked here and there and I can say she runs now just perfect.

From here I am going to strip, cleanup some of those nasty edges on the castings and paint. I have decided on the color scheme. It will be a olive green. I have seen this color on another engine last week and it exited me a bit.

Until next time


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

I have stripped and polished all parts. I am now busy with the main casing which requires a lot of cleaning up and grinding with my Dremel. From here I am going to fill the uneven edges with body filler and primer.

If all goes well I might spay paint this weekend


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi all

For those who are following along, I am not gone. I have painted all parts and waiting for the paint to cure properly before final assembly.....and oh yes!!!! I cant wait to see the final product.

I will be starting tonight on it

Take care

Albert


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

Here are some photos of the finished engine.

I ran it again last night and I need to make a few adjustments with some more locktite here and there. I also have to sort out the noisy governor. Any ideas on that from anybody?

Otherwise I am very happy with the engine and I think it came out well.

I will add another video once I have the above sorted.

Take care

ALbert


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## ShopShoe

Albert,

That engine is just beautiful in its final paint and finish. I can't wait for the video. If it were mine I would be having a hard time deciding whether to run it and risk the inevitable marks of running or just look at it. (Really, I would have to run it ----- did I say I can't wait for the video.)

--ShopShoe


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## AlbertdeWitte

ShopShoe said:


> Albert,
> 
> That engine is just beautiful in its final paint and finish. I can't wait for the video. If it were mine I would be having a hard time deciding whether to run it and risk the inevitable marks of running or just look at it. (Really, I would have to run it ----- did I say I can't wait for the video.)
> 
> --ShopShoe



ShopShoe

Thanks a lot!!

Will try to make the video on Saterday


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## cwelkie

Absolutely gorgeous Albert! The colours chosen really set off all the shiny bits. An inspiring result ...
Charlie


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## 10K Pete

It's beautiful Albert! Nice choice of color too. Can't wait for the video.

Pete


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## a41capt

Wow Albert, she's a beauty!  Fantastic looking job, and a good runner too!

Congratulations!!!

John W
Camp Verde, Arizona USA


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## AlbertdeWitte

John, Pete and Charlie

Thanks all of your for the commends. Really appreciated.

Like always last night I did some final touches on settings etc and let it run for about an hour.

I decided to make a little video again and I managed to upload it.

See the vapor on the hopper. What is amazing here is that the engine does not get that hot. I can hold the muffler with my bear hands.

Enjoy

https://youtu.be/TV6S64xReiU


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## ShopShoe

A beautiful runner.

I just like everything about your build of this engine.

Do you have anything else in the works?

--ShopShoe


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## AlbertdeWitte

ShopShoe said:


> A beautiful runner.
> 
> I just like everything about your build of this engine.
> 
> Do you have anything else in the works?
> 
> --ShopShoe



ShopShoe

I have a Stuart Beam Engine which I got from a guy giving up building it. So I will strip all and identify whats missing and try to complete it. It was laying in his garage for 5 years.

Other that that I am still looking around

I like this one though: http://www.minicastings.com/acatalog/Ball-Hopper-Monitor.html#SID=257

I think I need to build more IC engines in future. I have done a good couple steam for now.


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## AlbertdeWitte

Hi Guys

As the winder is now here with all its glory my work space was at 2deg Celsius last night.

I finished the glass case I made and retreated into home and took some pictures again.

Pity at night with the flash the pictures doesn't do justice to the glass because of reflection.

However here is a few with and without the glass case that come out not too bad.

Take care


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## a41capt

Albert,  I'm having just the opposite problem here in Arizona.  It was 105 degrees F that drove me out of my shop!

The glass case looks great, but your engine is spectacular!!!


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## AlbertdeWitte

a41capt said:


> Albert,  I'm having just the opposite problem here in Arizona.  It was 105 degrees F that drove me out of my shop!
> 
> The glass case looks great, but your engine is spectacular!!!



a41capt

Please please send me some of those unwanted degrees LOL.

Thanks for the commend! really appreciated


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