# Niels Abildgaard's tangential tool



## pilotlarry (Oct 22, 2014)

As I agreed to do when Niels generously loaned me one of his shop-made tangential tool holders, here's a report on my experimenting with it, and my impressions.  Niels has made a couple of his holders freely available for trial to interested machinists, perhaps to be inspired to shop-make one themselves.  He has asked that they be passed on to the next fellow, post paid.  More on this at the end of the post 

I got the tool in the mail a few days ago from Niels, and have had it enough time and used it enough to form some opinions.  My lathes are both Boxfords, an ME-10, and a VSL-500, in very good condition.  They've been equipped for some time with quick change tool holders, a Swiss Multi-Fix, and a DTM, which is similar to the Aloris wedge design.  I like them both, and feel the tangential was being compared to top-end tool holders.

My interest was to test the tangential both for potential finish quality, and for brute material removal rate. After test cuts using the tangential holder on aluminum and two grades of steel, on both lathes, I'll say that the finish quality attained was as good as any I'm capable of, and even when taking deeper cuts in the steel than I'd ever attempted before, no chatter or any other problem was experienced.  I did not reach whatever the tool's limit might be, not wanting to impose any greater load on my lathes.  

So, for rigidity, the design is excellent - which stands to reason, there being just the one, single sturdy piece connecting the cutting tool with the compound rest (top slide), plus, virtually no tool overhang.  And a bonus is the ease of sharpening the tool.  One surface only, brilliant!  

I'm well impressed, and thanks to Niels for making it available to me for this convincing trial. I plan to make one for myself with a couple of minor changes that I think will be of value to me.  No change to the basic tool geometry, I believe that's just right.

So, if you'd like a chance to try the tool, respond to this thread affirmatively, and I'll send it post paid to the first member to post the request.    Include your name and address, and after trying the tool out, post a comment on this site with offer to send it to the next person.  Niels also suggested that a donation be made to the Salvation Army, which I'm happy to have done in the spirit of good works.

Lawrence


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## Niels Abildgaard (Oct 23, 2014)

Thank You Lawrence for testing the thing.
If You look at the picture of the one You have

http://cdn.homemodelenginemachinist.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66038&stc=1&d=1385126142

may I suggest the following improvement?

Put the toolbit clamping screw a little further away back from toolbit to get reasonable thread length
Make the final operation cutting the big vertical holding down hole so big that clamping feels rigth.It is from memory too stiff in the one You have


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## RonGinger (Oct 23, 2014)

I hava a tangential tool holder bought at the NAMES show many years ago. It does do a great job, but it cannot cut into a shoulder unless you roatate the holder,  but because I use it in an Aloris tool post that messes up all my other tool settings. Id like to make one with the bit oriented so it can do a  shoulder, but with the shank in the normal tool position.


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## Omnimill (Oct 23, 2014)

RonGinger said:


> I hava a tangential tool holder bought at the NAMES show many years ago. It does do a great job, but it cannot cut into a shoulder unless you roatate the holder,  but because I use it in an Aloris tool post that messes up all my other tool settings. Id like to make one with the bit oriented so it can do a  shoulder, but with the shank in the normal tool position.



I also found this with the commercial unit Ron, and it's the same with Niels toolholder.
I wanted a Tangential tool that I could just clamp straight in my four way tool post and both turn and face with it so I made this. I'm not saying it's any better than other tool holders, just quicker and easier to set up.


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## Niels Abildgaard (Nov 11, 2014)

The one Lawrence got was my last  pressmanufactured and as I like to make tantools I am doing that again.
  Machining black iron block down to .2mm over final heigth and drill the 14 mm holding down hole and the 20 mm flex hole was 40 plus 20 minutes.
Starting dimension was 35 times 35 times 85 mm and I want to land on 25.14 mm height that is the centerline over compoundslide dimension on my Boxford lathe.
Drilling the 6.7mm 12 degree  tilted toolbitt hole and three paralel 5 mm holes was 25 minutes.
Slitgrinding was 5 minutes and I did not photograph .
I was scared stiff.
Pressing with toolbit in place needed 10 tons .Removed toolbit and I gave it three tons and this eliminated spring back.The tool is by far the nicest closing pressmanufactured I have made .(number 6 I think)


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## Niels Abildgaard (Nov 11, 2014)

Drilling , countersinking and threading for M8 closing screw was 20 minutes.
2 hours total
The day after tomorrow I will angnlegrind and lathemill the necesary clearances and finalize heigth 25.14 mm.Easily within two hours I think


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## pilotlarry (Nov 12, 2014)

Niels, 

it does look fine - practice makes perfect.  Nice sequence of photos, too, I learned a technique from them for future angle drilling.  I've always used the drill press or mill with angle blocks, etc., when the lathe with its angular indexed compound slide would sometimes be a more convenient machine - as you used it here.
Best regards,
Lawrence


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## Niels Abildgaard (Nov 13, 2014)

Did consider many worksaving ways to remove bulk material in clearance zones.
Me and my hacksaw did it in 15 minutes.
If I had done it in 10 ,I would be in hospital or heaven where lathes are Scaublins. 
I used a toolbit set ca 5 mm to high as sawing-guide but wonder if it still was to close?
If, then time waste up to now is only 2 hours and 15 min.
Next step is clearance milling in lathe and this need some sketches for explanation.
Time used for explaining goes to another account.


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## Niels Abildgaard (Nov 13, 2014)

Hello Lawrence
I hope You enjoy using the tantool as much as I do making one.
Normal working into a corner need some 2 to 3 degree clearance.
I have tried with 1 degree but is not easy to set up fast.
To mill these ,I put a toolbit 1.6mm too low and mill as close to the Crobalt edges as I dare.
I have discovered that the unspecified carbide chews Crobalt and keep on working.
The one I have has done it two times.


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## Niels Abildgaard (Nov 13, 2014)

Some photos of the lathemilling using 1.5 hours for both sides.
With a proper tool we are talking much less.
The unmilled corner on last picture shows I was sawing to close,but not scrap.


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## Niels Abildgaard (Nov 13, 2014)

Final operation and fit for figth.
25.14 mm top to bottom.Parallel within  0.005mm
The clamping screw is a modified standard as shown and there is a short piece of toolbitt of the rigth size.
This is used to lock toolholder during manufacture without interfering.
Facing top and bottom was 25 minutes.Shown on last picture.
My favourite  chuck is an unused and very cheap backplate.
Have no inhibitions drilling and threading holes and when it becomes to holley like swiss chese I can afford a new.


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## pilotlarry (Nov 14, 2014)

Niels,
it looks very good, indeed.  Thanks for showing the work process so clearly. -Lawrence


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## Niels Abildgaard (Nov 14, 2014)

Lawrence

It has been a pleasure and quite fun really.
Apart from anglegrinding.


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