# Duplex Vacuum, (Heinrici type stirling)



## Deanofid (Apr 1, 2010)

Hello all;

It's been three months to the day since I finished my last engine, and during that interval, much 
time was spent trying to decide what I wanted to build next. Well, actually, I built a number of 
things during that time, but they were not engines.

Not to long ago, I finished up my version of Jerry Howell's small propane burner, and I made it 
as a prelude to building an engine to go with it. I knew I wanted to make some kind of heat 
engine, but until a few weeks ago, hadn't settled on the design. I'd seen a Duplex Vacuum engine 
some years ago, and it struck me as an attractive design then, and it's where I finally landed for this build.

I got the prints for it from the late Mr. Howell's business, along with a piece of graphite for the 
piston, and two small ball bearings needed for the crank shaft. The name of the engine is 
deceptive, until you know, as Mr. Howell writes, that it was made by the Duplex Vacuum Company, 
so, it's really a proper name, rather than a descriptive one. It's a Heinrici type stirling cycle engine. 
The displacer and power piston run on the same axis, or centerline, with the displacer rod running 
through the center of the power piston, and the two of them go up and down in the same cylinder. 

There's a picture of the engine at this link, if you'd like to see it. (It's copyrighted, so can't be 
put up here.)
http://www.model-engine-plans.com/engineplans/images/Duplex.jpg



I started with the displacer arm. Similar to a con-rod, but has a clamping eye on one end. 
It may be an odd place to start, but my latest materials order has been lost in shipment, so 
until something shows up, I'll make parts with the metal I have on hand.








Starting with a piece of rectangular aluminum stock, milled to length, the holes for the shafts 
it will need are bored.











The big end has to be radiused, so a shoulder stud is made for holding the arm securely. 

The end of a close fitting shaft for the bore in the arm is turned down enough to thread for 
a 4-40 nut. 
Really, just putting this here so someone won't be able to accuse me of doing nothing 
between this new build, and my last engine. See, Zee? Made a collet closer for the Atlas.










There. It's ready.










Now the shoulder stud is mounted in the vise nice and square, and the arm slipped over it. 

The shoulder on the stud is left just slightly proud of the arm, so the nut can be tightened down 
without pinching the arm. Then the radii are cut on both sides. One half of the radius, toward 
the end of the arm, is quite shallow to leave room for the clamping end of the arm.

I made this radius slightly larger than called for in the print, so there will be a little for clean up 
with a file, later. 

Originally, I did this step using a ball end mill, but the smallest of that type I have is 3/16", and 
the radius it produced didn't look right to me, so I went over it with a regular end mill.









The end here will be the clamping part. It's narrower than the boss, so after getting my dials 
set to zero, I made a number of passes taking bites that run up almost all the way to the boss, 
but leaving just a bit for filing later.










Now the piece is rotated 90 deg and the hole for the clamping screw is drilled and tapped.
I've also blued the piece and marked out a radius, then nibbled away the waste up to the 
mark out line.










Then the clamping part is slit so it can pinch on the shaft that holds this arm.

The other end is slotted too, for a link that will eventually hold it to the displacer shaft. 
About the same thing as the shot above, so no pics of that.










Back on its side again, and the waste is removed between the eyes to form the middle part 
of the arm.










Turned over one more time, to get rid of the waste on the small end, so it can be rounded over with a file.


Up to this point, I've left the flange of the arm, (the main part in the middle), full width, to 
provide a little extra work holding support. 'Bout time to get rid of the excess.










Using 1/16" rods through the two eyes of the arm just happen to give the proper angle to give 
the arm a tapered look. 










Now I need a couple of filing buttons so I can get rid of the lumpy bits without messing up my 
work with the file. A 3/8" piece of drill rod is just the right o.d., so a piece is chucked up and 
drilled/tapped for 10-32. A #10 screw is the same size as the bore in the big end of the rod, 
so will hold the buttons nicely centered. The nut for a #10 is too large, though, and that's the 
reason for taping one of the buttons. It can act as a nut, too.










After the first button is parted off, the threads remaining in the second one are drilled out for 
clearance of the #10 screw.

My parting tool left these ridges on the buttons that need to be turned off. Using a piece of 
the same 3/8" drill rod behind each button in the collet lets the collet squeeze down on the 
little buttons firmly, and helps with positioning them out far enough to clean up.










The buttons are then heated up and then quenched to harden them. If you harden your buttons, 
they will not be deformed when you do your filing. The file will just skip over them.

I took a number pics while doing this, trying to get the camera set right to show something close
to the proper color for a hardening temperature. This is as close as I could get, and pretty much
what it looks like indoors. If you have trouble telling colors when doing this, use a magnet to test
the heat. When the steel gets to the right temp, it will no longer be attracted to the magnet.
For small things, like these, you can tell pretty easily, but for larger pieces, it takes longer, and you
find yourself wondering, "Is it there, yet?".  Use a magnet, and you'll know for sure.

I just leave these dead hard, and they will be fine that way as long as you don't do something like 
squeeze them in a vise. They'll break if you do something like that, or hit them with a hammer. 
If they were going to be used in a vise, tempering would be a good idea.











Here are the buttons in place, and I can get to filing on the piece to clean it up some.
After the 'file a while' game, it started looking half way decent.










Well, that's one piece down. Probably won't be anything new for a few days. I'm a slow builder!

Thanks for having a look.

Dean


----------



## BigBore (Apr 1, 2010)

ALL RIGHT!  woohoo1

Another build for the forum's "Historian" I'm all over this one. Looking forwards to the whole process. Thanks.

Ed


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 1, 2010)

Well worth the wait Dean.
Very nice post with goodies to learn. Thanks!


----------



## joe d (Apr 1, 2010)

Dean

Good to see you started on another engine. Don't worry about how fast it gets done, the only one likely to fuss is that Zee guy :big:

Cheers, Joe


----------



## doc1955 (Apr 1, 2010)

Your off to a very nice start.
Lookin very nice I will be keeping an eye on this build would like to maybe put this engine on my build list.


----------



## ksouers (Apr 2, 2010)

Very nice Dean.
I'm very interested in Stirlings so I'll keep a close eye on this one.

I've had a Stirling on my short list for many years now. I've had several starts but no finishes. Maybe this is the year.


----------



## cfellows (Apr 2, 2010)

That's going to be a nice looking engine. I look forward to following your build on it, Dean. Thanks for posting.

Chuck


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 2, 2010)

Thanks all, for the kind comments and encouragements. I appreciate it!

Dean


----------



## hobby (Apr 2, 2010)

I like how you fabricated that part,
that's a good idea for making a round on the end of a workpiece, 
thanks for showing those details.

That part looks superb...


----------



## 4156df (Apr 2, 2010)

Dean,

Very nice work. Your displacer arm is one of those parts that make me say "Wow".

Dennis


----------



## arnoldb (Apr 3, 2010)

Great start Dean; I'm looking forward to the rest!

Very well documented as well, as always!

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 3, 2010)

Hobby, Dennis, and Arnold, thanks much for your comments!




For this next post I have a couple more rod/arm things, but they are made a bit different from 
the first one. They don't have a clamping lug, and both ends of each are regular round eyes, so 
the rotary table can make make them pretty nicely.









My R/T has a 1/4" center hole in the table, so I turned up a couple of studs, one for the end of 
the rods that have smaller bores, and one for the rod with a larger bore.










The rod blanks are cut to length and the eye holes are put in with a reamer.










The jig plate that will hold the rods to the table is made up from a short piece of aluminum scrap. 
There's not a lot to tell about making it. A couple of tapped holes for clamping the pieces, a couple 
of slots for mounting to the table. I did the centering hole, which will locate the jig plate on the R/T, 
using an end mill, since it was already in the milling machine. End mills make a pretty accurately sized 
hole. It's center cutting, so will just chew its way through without a pilot.










Now out with the Chinese tombstone to make some reference marks on the rods. These marks will 
tell me how far to cut the radius on the ends of the pieces. If the job needed more precision, the dial 
marks on the R/T would be used. 











Centering an R/T is pretty easy. Clamp it down, and find the center with a ground pin in the mill 
spindle. The pin is the same size as the center hole of the table, so X and Y are just moved around 
until the pin slips into the center hole. A DTI is used if the job requires sub thou setups.

The jig plate was mounted to the R/T first, using the same pin to locate it on the rotary table, then 
the table and jig are centered under the spindle bore as a unit.










One of the studs is put through the jig and into the R/T, then the rod eye is slipped over the stud and 
clamped down. You can see a scribed line on the end of the jig, upper right in the picture. That line is 
used to align the hole in the opposite end of the rod. The holes are small enough that they can easily 
be aligned by eye while looking through the hole to see the line.

The X table is then cranked over to produce the needed radius on the end of the rod, and the cutting 
commences. The radius is cut to the mark out lines, then the spindle is raised to cut the inside area 
of the radius that will dictate the thickness of the rod flange.










After the end of the rods are cut, the rods are put in the mill vise, and the waste on the flanges 
between the eyes is removed.

In order to make finishing easier, the material is removed to just short of the radiused area that was 
cut when making the ends. In the picture, the part that is circled is what I'm talking about here. You 
can see where I've milled down the middle, (the part my thumb is on), and where it meets the radius 
previously cut. By leaving the area in the middle just a little high, it makes filing the flanges flat much 
better than if it were done the other way around. All you have to do is file a flat area. If the end mill 
were allowed to cut even a tiny bit below the radiused area, then you would have to file round and 
round the eye trying to get it to look nice. Does that make sense? 










Now the part that every one loves so much.
It's good practice! Just settle into it and do it.










So, that's it for today. There are still two more rods to be made, but they are much easier.  
Just simple flat things. I'm glad for that. I'm ready to get to some lathe work. 

Thanks for checking in.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 4, 2010)

Very good looking rods Dean.

As you know, I've still got a lot to learn...so I have to bug you with some possibly...well we'll say 'newbie' questions..

Did you file all four sides of the middle of the rods?
Why not use the mill?

I have one of those scriber tools but have yet to use it.

Is there a time when a scriber would be used over a height gauge?
Do you know of a reference that shows how to use such a scriber? I'd like to know why it's made the way it is...the joints...the various types of slots in the base, etc.

Thanks Dean.


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 4, 2010)

Hi Zee;
I appreciate your questions.



> Did you file all four sides of the middle of the rods?
> Why not use the mill?



Yes, I filed all four flat sides of the middles.
I did use an end mill to get those surfaces to within 1-2 thou of the radiused surfaces. Getting them to match up really well where the rod ends meet the four flat sides is difficult with a mill. It's easy to go below the point where everything meets up, and then it's a hard filing job trying to match up the round ends to the flat. Doing it the other way around, matching up the flats to the round ends, means you only have to file on the flat parts.

Maybe my reasoning, or my description, is not clear. If that's the case, please ask again, and I'll try to do better.




> Is there a time when a scriber would be used over a height gauge?
> Do you know of a reference that shows how to use such a scriber? I'd like to know why it's made the way it is...the joints...the various types of slots in the base, etc.



That thing is usually called a surface gauge.  It's fine for layout that only needs the accuracy of your eyeball and a marked reference, like a machinists rule. Also handy for finding centers on certain work piece shapes.
The slanted grove in the back is to let the long post reach over an edge, below the top of a surface plate. The slots in the side are just finger grooves. It has a "V" groove in the bottom for following the contour of round stock. The two holes in the base are for pins to guide it in a straight line off the side edge of a surface plate.

A height gauge pretty much takes the place of the surface gauge for laying out accurate lines and checking surfaces.  I might get one, someday, but I'm in no rush. I _almost never_ cut to a line when milling things, preferring to cut to coordinates. If I put lines on a piece, it is for something like this, where I just needed a "near enough" reference, or for rough layout for things like clearance hole patterns and other things that do not require fine precision. 

I'll look for a user reference. Pretty sure there's some kind of instruction out there. Will put it here or PM you when I find something.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 4, 2010)

Thanks Dean.

I suspected you milled then filed.
I would've tried milling to dimension and been unhappy. ;D
I used to not think much about filing (and I mean that in all ways ;D ) but your (and others) threads on filing have completely changed my opinion. (It's helped too that I've had some success filing on the loco.)

Thanks for the quickie on the surface gauge. When I wrote that (i.e. scriber) I had a nagging suspicion I wasn't calling it right (although I think I did name it correctly in that thread about 'useless tools' ;D)

Don't put yourself out looking for educational material for me.

Thanks again.


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 5, 2010)

Just a bit done today, though it took me a good long time to get this far.

Started work on the displacer cylinder. Jerry Howell insists this part be made from stainless steel, so I rounded up a piece of 416.







After a bit of quality time with the hacksaw, I had my piece ready to reduce to chips.










This end will be what is usually called a "hot cap" in a stirling engine. It needs to be more than just 
a round piece on the end, though. The prints want what I would call a heat collector.
Like a radiator in reverse.










So, to the mill to make some slots in the end I just turned. Like slicing a pie. The flame that runs 
the engine will go right up the middle of those slots.










Then, back to the lathe and chuck up on the end that just got the "pie slices".

The end that has the center hole is where the displacer piston will go. The thin flange is what holds the 
piece into the bottom of the engine.
The center part that is a smaller diameter will form a thin walled section of the cylinder that helps keep 
heat from transferring to the top end of the engine.

I don't cut stainless very often. I avoid it when I can. Even 416, which is considered free machining, is 
really only free machining-ish when you are using a small lathe. I'd much rather cut something like 
1144 sp, or even plain old 1018. The old 6" lathe did alright, but it wanted to go slow. I put the back 
gear in and let it munch away.

Worked on this piece four hours and the back said it was quitting time. I'll finish it up tomorrow, 
then start on something else.

Thanks for having a look.

Dean


----------



## b.lindsey (Apr 5, 2010)

This is looking fantastic Dean and beautifully documented. I'll be following it too as I admire all of Jerry's sterling engines and I feel sure he would be admiring your efforts just as we are. 

Bill


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 6, 2010)

Nice Dean.

When you cut the slots, did you cut them at depth? Or make several passes?

When it comes to steel, I've only used 1018 (which I haven't developed much of a liking for) or 12L14 (which I have enjoyed). Would 12L14 have been a good choice too?

Thanks Dean.


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 6, 2010)

Bill, thanks for the nice compliment!

Zee, for those slots, I made a bunch of .015" passes. With an 1/8" end mill, I didn't want to push it. 

For just this part, Howell really wants it to be stainless. He explains why in the instructions that come with the prints, and makes a convincing argument for it. 
He does say that if you absolutely can not get stainless, then use mild steel, which would be like 1018, and a number of others. He wants stainless because of its thermal characteristics, (and it won't rust). I don't know if 12L14 has anything near those thermal qualities. I'd rather use what he considers the best material, and give this engine a better chance of running well.

1018 is good enough stuff for many uses where just "steel" is called for. I can't imagine any general machining situation where 12L14 wouldn't do just as good, or better than 1018, though, and it's also super free machining, which works great for us home shop guys. I would pick 12L14 over 1018 for anything that wanted plain steel, unless it needed to be welded.

Probably the only time you would want something other than 12L14 for use as a general steel product is if you have a machining operation that relieves stresses in long, non-concentric cuts. When you turn down a piece of CRS, (1018, 12L14, 1045, et al) and end up with a number of different diameters, each diameter on the piece has had an equal amount of material removed all around that diameter, and usually, your piece will stay straight.

If you need to make something like a shaft that will have a long non-concentric cut on it, like you would if you milled a long flat on one side of a round bar, you probably wouldn't want most types of CRS. The stresses in regular CRS would likely leave you with a bend in your piece, in that case. For that kind of machining operation, you would want a stress relieved material. That would be things like HRS, or 1144sp.

Long story short, use 12L14 when ever you can.

Dean


----------



## kustomkb (Apr 6, 2010)

Very nice work and documentation.

Great progress! 

Thanks.


----------



## mklotz (Apr 6, 2010)

> Long story short, use 12L14 when ever you can.



I concur...with one reservation. 12L14 will rust more readily than any other steel I've ever encountered. I wouldn't recommend it for any model engine application where it can't be kept oiled at all times.

I live in what is officially classified as a semi-desert and the only (unprotected) steel in my shop that shows any rust is 12L14.


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 6, 2010)

Thanks for the nice comments, and for checking in, Kevin.

Marv, the thing about leaded steel rusting is not something I've noticed, and really, I think there are others that rust much faster. I suppose the specification may change slightly from lot to lot, or maker to maker, which I guess could cause it. Our location may be a big difference, too. You're much closer to the ocean than I, but we do get a lot of "wet" here.
The engine below has the cylinder/head unit made from 12L14, and the flywheel from 1018. Though the engine is now about 10 years old, there is no rust on the cylinder. None. The flywheel, even though turned to a better finish, shows a number of little spots not visible in the pic. (Shame on me.)

We all have our own experiences and observations. Ours seem to be quite a bit different in this rust thing.









Well, back to the build, which is a totally different engine!






Finishing up this piece, it's drilled and bored to depth and diameter. The area that has the smaller 
diameter, right behind the thin flange, will end up with a wall thickness of just .012", so the final cuts to 
bring the bore to size were fairly light. About .002" cut put on for the last four or five passes, then on 
the last cut, only whisker to bring it to final dimension, and clean it up a bit.










That's it, on my fat piggy finger. I'll admit, not the best finish I've ever turned.
Must be a hardware problem. Couldn't be the software... 










The family shot, so far. No scrap yet, (but there are 49 pieces to go).
; )

Thanks for looking. Again!

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 6, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Must be a hardware problem. Couldn't be the software...



It's the wetware...it's almost always the wetware.

(For those of you not familiar with the term..it's that stuff inside your head.)

Thanks Dean and Marv. Very helpful. I've had some 12L14 in my basement now for nearly a year...on engines...so far so good. But I keep some trays of damp-rid around too. I have noticed that if I drop some 12L14 chips in water...then by the next day...it's nothing but rust.

Nice family shot Dean.


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 10, 2010)

My, it doesn't take long for a guy to slip to page two. I think that's a good sign. Lots of folks building!

This post will show how the main bearing supports are made. Quite a bit of roundy round work in these.








Starting with two aluminum pieces that had been squared up in one setting, three guide holes are drilled 
and reamed. The pieces are clamped together to satisfy my paranoia. I want the holes in each piece 
to be really well lined up, as two pairs of holes will become running bores.

The third hole, more or less in the middle, is for R/T jig purposes.










Once the holes are drilled, the pieces can be separated and I can proceed with the twirly table work.  
Similar to how the arms were made, I need to know where to stop the odd radii that make up the 
shape of these things, so the first cuts are the relief that form the bosses for the bearings. 










After the bosses are cut on this side, the centering jig hole is put on center on the R/T, and this radius 
can be cut through the piece. You can see where this radius ends at the upper bearing boss. It doesn't 
matter where the other end of the radius ends, as long as it goes past the part that will become the 
straight part of main bearing arm.

Hard to explain what this piece looks like at this point, but it will become clear pretty quick. It will seem 
quick, in the pics, at least. Actual time for the first of these two pieces is about six hours. That's "Dean 
time". Even slower than real time. 

'Bout now, you may be wondering "What are those big gobs of metal holding this mess down?". I 
know. I need to make more hold down clamps for my shop! 











The second radius that forms part of the support for the upper bearing is cut the same way as the first 
one. The X feed is cranked in for the proper width and the cutter offset, and it's in position.

The prints don't give exact dimensions for this slot, but the start and stop points can be figured using 
certain datum points. One is at the center of the eye, and one at the far edge of the work piece. 
Datum(s) are often the kind of things that are left up to the builder, and in most cases could be a 
number of features on a piece. I chose the upper edge in this picture, along with the short slot I had 
milled in that edge earlier. The hole centers are given, and if they're put where they belong, will also 
serve as datum points.

Sometimes a print will have a line going to a surface calling out a datum. They guy who drew them is 
telling you to use that point as a reference for other measurements. 










Once those two radii are milled in, I can start cutting out the straight pieces. Since the piece is on the 
R/T, and has been cranked round to a few different positions, the piece isn't square, so the first step is 
to use a 1-2-3 block against the far edge to get it square to the spindle. I just put the block against the 
edge, and ran it up against the headstock, rotating the table back and forth until it was squared up. If 
any of the features milled off that reference edge needed to hold a certain tolerance, like if cutting a 
mounting surface, the 1-2-3 block wouldn't do. That edge would need to be dialed in properly with a 
DTI. 











While I had the piece squared up, I went ahead and cut the other bits that amount to perpendicular 
lines. Again, locating what goes where using the slot at the blue arrow, and the edge at the red line.










Now the ends of the two slots are connected, and the middle falls out. There is no way to know this 
angle, and it's not called out in the print, but since the end points of the radius and straight slot are cut 
in, it's kind of a no brainer, (which is right up my alley).

After this cut, the mill table is cranked back to cut the slot that goes from my short datum slot to the 
outer radius of the upper boss.










With all that stuff cut out, just have to get rid of the material that's holding the scrap to the piece. 
Nothing was cut completely off up to this point in order to leave me with plenty of clamping options. 










Back on the pins for the eyes, (bearing bores, actually), and the radii around the bosses are cut, letting 
the waste fall away.










Although there is still about a half hour of milling to be done to clean it up, and lots of filing, this is it for 
today. I have another one to make yet. When that one is done, and I get these cleaned up, I'll have a 
pic to show, and then on to another part. Maybe something in the lathe to clear my head.

Thanks for having a look in.

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (Apr 10, 2010)

Ive been watching for awhile now, and Wow, your work is aww inspiring. I will definatly be watching this thread with must interest.

I am told this type of Sterling engine is the most efficent, and therfore more powerful than the seperate cylinder type. I will be interested in how much usable power one might expect from this engine.

kel


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 11, 2010)

Looking great Dean.

Same question as when you made the displacer...did you mill the slots/edges in many passes? Or at depth? Just wondering what difference the material makes.


----------



## b.lindsey (Apr 11, 2010)

Its still coming along nicely Dean. I see what you mean as to all the roundy round work in those. Looks like you and the mill are getting along well this weekend :big:

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 11, 2010)

Kel and Bill, thanks for your time in commenting. Appreciate that!
Kel, I'm interested to see how much power it makes, too. Really, I'll be pleased if it just runs. : )
I saw a vid of a similar engine powering a watchmakers lathe on Youtube, and the guy was actually cutting brass. That engine was a little larger than this one, but same design.

Zee, I took a number of passes for each cut. The al plate is 1/4" thick, and I made about .040" per pass. The end mill is a 3/16", two flute HSS, and running about 2100 rpm. It could have taken quite a lot more D.O.C. but then chips build up in the slot so fast that it starts running a lot of recuts through the flutes. Makes for more clean up work, and the tool doesn't really like it.

Thanks all!

Dean


----------



## ozzie46 (Apr 11, 2010)

Is this CNC or manual? Very Impressive either way. But is its manual its Mighty impressive. :bow: :bow:

 Ron


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 11, 2010)

Thanks Ron. Your kind words are appreciated!


> Is this CNC or manual?


 I'm happy with my hand cranks and dials. My shop is CNC free. 

Dean


----------



## doc1955 (Apr 11, 2010)

Nice job Dean I like the main supports beautiful job in hand cranking :big:
How does the 416 material you used for the hot end cap machine compared to 17-4 I don't believe I've ever machined any. I usually use 17-4 ,15-5 or 13-8 when I need a stainless part.
You doing some beautiful work! :bow:


----------



## ksouers (Apr 11, 2010)

Dean, the supports look great. I had a really hard time visualising what you were trying to do on the RT but once I saw the finished part it all clicked. Great description of the process.


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 12, 2010)

Doc and Kevin, thanks for checking in!

Doc, I haven't used the stainless types you mention. Just some from the 300 series, and the 416. 
I used the 416 for the hot cap because it doesn't make a small machine work so hard. My 'big' lathe is a little 6" Atlas. That particular alloy turns okay, I guess, but not great. At least it doesn't work harden if you look at it wrong! Chips come off in little bits, kind of like a bunch of these things: &#1192; &#1192; &#1192; &#1192; 



A little more done today.
I made the second of the bearing supports, and then did a few more steps to finish out the 
milling on them.








The R/T work is done now, so I can mount them on the mill table to thin the inner area to match the 
parts done earlier around the bearing bosses. Also, one more cut out area is done on the base of each 
piece.

Sorry about all these aluminum on aluminum photos. A little hard to see details.










Last milling step is to run a ball end mill down the sides of the arms to "nice 'em up" a bit. 










Now, again, some filing work. 
There are a number of these little checks, or cuts, like can be seen on the top of the arm and in the 
lower cut out area. They all need to be filed out. These things are often caused by recuts that occur 
when you have a smallish end mill in a somewhat deep cut. Even making a number of shallower passes 
while cutting these out, and cleaning out the chips often, they still happen now and then.










To file in places like this, where the file could bump up against a part, or in case I should goof and let it 
skip up off the flat, I put a piece of masking tape on the parts that could be damaged. 










Well, there they are. I'm done with them for now, though they need just a bit of final finishing, which 
I'll do after all the fitting exercises. 









Only five pieces done? Goodness.
Oh, six pieces. Well, that's better.

Thanks for looking in!

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 12, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Only five pieces done? Goodness.



What? Busy? I know what you're up to. ;D

Nice stuff. I always enjoy reading your posts...lots of good tips...not to mention good work.


----------



## doc1955 (Apr 12, 2010)

I know what you mean by work hardening ;D I actually like the 17-4 myself only thing is that you end up with the rats nest.






But you get a nice accurate cut with a nice finish but the nest sucks.


You have 6 nice looking parts there and is that a generic M&M were you tasting the candy coating :big: :big:


----------



## joe d (Apr 12, 2010)

Looking good there, Dean. I know what you mean about those recuts... and thanks for the tip about masking off the sensitive areas with a bit of tape. That would have saved me a few nasty looking file-end gouges if I'd only known.... :big:

Cheers, Joe


----------



## ksouers (Apr 12, 2010)

Dean, my file work never ends up looking like that :bow:
Amazing!


----------



## Blogwitch (Apr 13, 2010)

Very nice work Dean.

I liked the way you proved a point.

Many people seem to think that the finished result comes from machining. Far from it.

Machining, to me, is only to get the rough shape, it is the handwork afterwards that brings out the true beauty in a part, and is just as important a skill to pick up as using your machines to their full effect.


John


----------



## 4156df (Apr 13, 2010)

Gosh those parts look good, Dean. Thanks for the explanation on the small ridges (recuts). I'll have to up my rate of chip removal.
Dennis


----------



## arnoldb (Apr 13, 2010)

Great going Dean :bow:
And THANK YOU for the detailed photos. I was getting the same problems with the "recuts" on my last build and newbie mill use, and thought it was a unique problem to my own set-up and inexperience. I left some photos out because I thought I just had blunt end mills and so on, but from the photos you have shown, it would appear that some of the finishes I've been getting are normal, and the filing and sanding required afterwards just a part of "getting things done"

There's one on you mate 
Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 13, 2010)

Zee, Doc, Joe, Kevin, Bogs, Dennis, Arnold;
Thanks very much for your remarks. Very encouraging, and they're really appreciated!

*Zee*, sorry to be so pokey. Most of my day is taken up with eating and sleeping, you know. What a struggle!

*Doc*, thanks for the tips on the 17-4. I'll get a piece and play with it sometime. Looking at the cutting charts for it, could be a little tough for my small machines, but I'm all for a new (machining) experience!

*Joe* and *Dennis*, sometimes those darn recut marks are caused when I blow out a slot and I've left the mill running. That's often how I do it, and if I would take the time to shut off the mill beforehand, it would cut down on it some. I use canned air with a long nozzle to reach in and give it a puff, and sometimes can hear a chip going past the cutter edge. It makes a little "tic" as it goes through, pushing the end mill over against the other side of the cut, and you get that little nick.
I rarely get those nicks when cutting a wide slot or profiling an edge, since the chips have somewhere to go.

*Arnold*, sometimes those marks that look the same as recuts can be from a blunt tool. That will often leave a kind of "fuzzy" surface, too, or a rippled effect that is more pronounced than usual.  If your tool is sharp though, it's probably from recutting chips. If you have room for a finish pass you can get rid of much of it. Vacuum out all the chips and run your last pass. 

*John*, thanks. I surely agree, much of the end result comes from what is done after the piece comes out of the mill vise. I want the machine to do the needed accuracy part, (as long as I do my part!), but don't expect it to put on the paint and polish. ; )

*Kevin*, do you have some fairly good files? Just your average well made brand will do, and you don't need to spend a fortune. Nicholson, or something like that. A 6" single cut (mill bastard), and a single cut mill smooth in the same length will be a good start. Shorter files give a finer finish. Watch for pins, a real finish killer.

Dean


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 14, 2010)

Hello all;
Today, lathe work!
Made a good start on the cylinder, and though not quite finished, here are the progress shots, so no 
one thinks I'm just kickin' back, eatin' bon-bons.









Kind of a long piece of aluminum square stock sticking out of the four jaw, but it has to be what it is. 
Faced off the end, then centered drilled for a live one.










Bringing down the mid section of the cylinder was done in two steps. It was done this way to 
accommodate the use of the 1" travel of the dial indicator that tells me the position of the carriage. 
Cut an inch, lock the carriage, move the DI down the bed to zero it out, and cut the rest.










This shot shows the flat nosed tool used to cut out the mid section. It's ground just like a parting tool, 
flat on top, both sides narrowing down toward the bottom of the tool for side clearance either way. 
Makes a decent finish.










Now that the OD of the middle of the piece is to size, it's time to cut the cooling fins.

Since the base and top of the cylinder are square shaped for mounting things on top and bottom, I
need a flat edge on either side of the tool to cut the top and bottom fins without running into the 
square ends. Right and left hand tools were ground up, and I'm groovin'.

I didn't take any stills of the process used for making the fins, but did a video instead, thinking maybe 
one person would like to see it being done. Each fin is cut in one plunge.

The lathe is running at 100 rpm, and each cut is dialed straight in .257". As soon as the tool reaches full 
depth, it's backed out just a touch to let the tool pull off any chatter marks. When I'm satisfied that the 
bottom of the groove is clean, the tool is backed completely out of the cut and onto the next one.

There can be a fine line between cleaning up the bottom of a groove, and making things worse, when it 
comes to chatter marks. I don't know how to explain the feel of it. I guess the best teacher in this 
case is practice.

Here's the vid:


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6zeRmx0Rjk[/ame]










After the cooling fins are done, the piece is drilled through and the bore is cut.










Here's the bore shot. Came out okay enough.

Nothing more for today. If I can get to it, there will be a few more pics finishing this up tomorrow.

Thanks again for checking it out.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 14, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Made a good start on the cylinder, and though not quite finished, here are the progress shots, so no one thinks I'm just kickin' back, eatin' bon-bons.



You thought the pics would help eh?
What kind of bon-bons are you eating?



			
				Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I didn't take any stills of the process used for making the fins, but did a video instead, thinking maybe one person would like to see it being done.



Yeah...I'm one person who likes seeing it done. These kinds of videos are very helpful. I remember when I first joined and asked about threading...someone was kind enough to show a video of them doing it. This forum is great.

Thanks Dean!


----------



## arnoldb (Apr 15, 2010)

That cylinder surely came out better than "good enough" Dean. It does not look like you will have too much lapping to do, if any!
Thanks for the tips on the milling; I think I need to invest in some new cutters when I have a bit of loose cash.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 15, 2010)

Zee and Arnold, thanks guys, for the comments!



			
				zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> You thought the pics would help eh?



Sorry Zee. Just my meager attempt to make you happy. I'll try to do better.
Oh. M&M flavored bon-bons, of course. 



			
				arnoldb  said:
			
		

> It does not look like you will have too much lapping to do, if any!


Arnold, it's getting a liner, so no lapping this part, at least!


Just a few things done to finish up the cylinder today.







First, cut a recess in the bottom of the cylinder that will take the large flange on the displacer cylinder, 
or hot cap. Then the piece is parted/sawed off, flipped end for end, and the top end faced off for a flat 
surface to mount the bearing supports.










Then to the mill to drill the mounting holes and a couple of threaded holes. These holes need to be 
pretty well "on" so the bores in the bearing supports line up well. I found the edges and used table 
coordinates to locate the holes.










Another piece down for the count. Almost. It still needs a cylinder liner. That's for another day 
when I'm feeling spot on, 'cause it won't tolerate my usual goofs.










The group shot, then, and since there are now enough parts to put a few things together,





an assembly shot:









It's starting to look kind of contraption-ey. I like contraptions!

Thanks again to all who are so nice as to follow along.

Dean


----------



## 4156df (Apr 15, 2010)

Dean,

Enjoying this thread. nice work.



> It's starting to look kind of contraption-ey.



Great word. My tool collecting friends would refer to it as having a "high gizmocity factor".

Dennis


----------



## kcmillin (Apr 15, 2010)

Looking great Dean. (As always)

This is going to be a fun engine to watch. 

Kel


----------



## ksouers (Apr 15, 2010)

Looking great, Dean.

Parts are starting to go together. That's a good sign, isn't it?


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 16, 2010)

Looks great Dean.

Wish I had time to say more. But you know my signature! "To work. To work."


----------



## b.lindsey (Apr 16, 2010)

You are making great progress Dean and the the cylinder looks perfect. Its nice when you can start putting some of the bits and pieces together ...if you look hard enough you can almost see it running.  Looking forward to more !!

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 26, 2010)

Thanks all, for your comments. 

So, I haven't posted to this thread for 10 days. I've been ailin', and the doc has me on some kind of 
antibiotics trying to get rid of what's slowing me down. Haven't done much of anything in those 10 
days but sleep and come here to read the forum. Man, it's boring!

Today, I thought I felt somewhat better, so decided to spend a short time in the shop. I figured about 
an hour in there would do me good. 
I need a cutter to counter bore a couple of the holes in the bearing supports that will hold the main ball 
bearings. I make these cutters all the time.









Turn a pilot on the proper sized piece of drill rod, and then start cutting flutes. You guys who aren't 
fuzzy headed will see something wrong with this already.









I didn't notice until I took the blank out of the jig to re-position it for cutting the clearances. The flutes 
are backwards. They'll be going the wrong way when the mill is turned on. I make these things all the
time.

Not a big problem, just go cut a pilot on the other end of the piece and start again. So, that's what I 
did.










Second try, and now I really know I'm not fit for the shop, even if I "make these things all the time".
I ran the cutter up and started the cut, and the whole thing pulled out of the jig. The peck marks along 
the length of this thing are where the end mill flutes grabbed it and ran it out like a gear rack. I'd 
stripped a jig screw the last time I'd tightened it down and didn't realize it. No way that would have 
gone un-noticed, normally. 










'Course, totally ruined this beautiful Atrax end mill, too. Only had a few hours on it.










Nothing came flying out, but could have. I use a shield to keep chips localized, but it also keeps other 
things in. Like those things I make all the time.

That's it for today, and probably for a few days to come. If I get the urge to go into the shop 
tomorrow, I think I'll just turn on the radio, have a seat, and wipe the grease off something. 

For the guys who want to see the goofs along with the good'uns, this is for you.

See you soon.

Dean


----------



## doc1955 (Apr 26, 2010)

Sorry to hear you feel a little under the weather.
Rest up and take it easy.


----------



## mklotz (Apr 26, 2010)

Tomorrow might be a good day to sort screws. That's what I do when I know I'm unfit for normal shop work. If I don't have screws to sort I polish my hammers or sharpen my Allen wrenches.  

Get well soon.


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 26, 2010)

Get well soon. We need you at top performance.

But we'll tolerate you any way you are. ;D


----------



## ksouers (Apr 26, 2010)

Get well soon, Dean. 

Don't need any more broken tools, or worse. I don't like to operate anything more complex than a paper towel when feeling poorly. Even a broom can be dangerous if you aren't careful about the free end.


----------



## b.lindsey (Apr 26, 2010)

Feel better soon Dean. Bummer about the end mill but they can be replaced, unlike fingers, etc. Glad thats all that suffered damage.

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 27, 2010)

Dennis, Marv, Zee, Kevin, and Bill; Thanks for the well wishes.
Seems like it's taking a long time to get better!

Dean


----------



## Noitoen (Apr 27, 2010)

Why not use the cutter running backwards? Doesn't your mill have reverse? 

Hope you feel good soon.


----------



## ariz (Apr 27, 2010)

perhaps when you cut the blank in the 'wrong' way you were doing conventional milling (so the work was perfect) while when you tried to cut it in the 'right' way for the rotation of the mill spindle, you were doing climb milling indeed... and this fact caused the disaster :-\

anyway, everyone of us sometimes do this type of errors, so don't worry too much 
hope you feel better soon Dean


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 29, 2010)

Noitoen, no, it only runs one direction.
Ariz, the main problem with the way I did these had to do with trying to get a job done when I wasn't thinking clearly. I've made a _lot_ of these things, really. Just shouldn't have gone into the shop that day. I'll show it properly done in a day or two.

Thanks for the well wishes, both of you.

Little ways from well, yet, but getting there! Did manage to make up a few bushings from 660 bronze. Just enough to keep this thread from dropping to page two, (again!).







That's all today, folks! Thanks so much for all your comments and "wellness thinkings".

Dean


----------



## b.lindsey (Apr 29, 2010)

Geeze Dean...I think its time to spring for some new M & M's ....that one looks a little worse for wear... :big: :big:

Hope you are continuing to feel better. I need to get busy here too...think i'm back on page two myself.

Bill


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Apr 29, 2010)

Very glad to see you're doing better.

The bushings look great...and small!

And now...that's right...I can't let you get away with it...

1) The M&M is obviously vintage 2002. And it's certainly been subjected to heat that exceeds the surface temperature of a palm. It is well past it's peak of flavor. Shame on you.
2) The tutu is for sale. Why would I give it away?

P.S. The standard M&M should be a 2008 Blue...but I don't have any. They were pretty good.


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 30, 2010)

> Hope you are continuing to feel better.


Why, thank you, Bill.
I ran out of fresh M&Ms 'til I get back into town. I don't wanna eat that last one, but give it a lick now and then. It's a "shop" M&M, so a little greasy. Not too bad, though.


Now Zee! Et tu, tu-tu frater? 
Bein' under the weather, I haven't got to town recently to stalk up on the sacred candies. Tis my last one and my comfort piece. Even my battery powered Mr. Jelly Belly has run dry of Reagan fruits. Woe is me!

But wait... (_sniff, sniff, sniff_)... yonder wafts sensuous aromas of sponge cake and creamy filling. Ahhh, salvation! The long hidden Twinkie from the top shelf in the medicine cabinet beckons. 
Glory and sweet relief, to last through long, cold night, ere dawn beckons shop owner to disgorge his supply of ovoid chocolates, jellied candies, and yes, fresh cake of sponge and goo. All will be made well and whole.

And they lived happily ever after. Well, the fat guy did, anyway.


----------



## SBWHART (Apr 30, 2010)

Hi Dean bin quietly following your build, real nice work, :bow: sorry you've bin under the weather hope things start to improve for you.

Stew


----------



## joe d (Apr 30, 2010)

Dean

it's good to see that you are starting to feel better, been down the "feel like crap" road myself just lately.... :big:

As to your medicinal sugar requirements... road trip time: Tim Horton's ( a chain of coffee & donut shops up here in the Great White North) have introduced a new treat.....

A slab of donut, coated with a generous layer of chocolate icing, said icing being there to glue on the coating of


wait for it



M&Ms ;D ;D ;D ;D

Cheers, Joe


----------



## Deanofid (Apr 30, 2010)

Stew, thank you.
Joe D. A man after my own heart!

Well, I've gone from feeling crappy, up to just feeling a little cruddy, which is an improvement by 
any measurement.
So, after messing up my cutter last time, I thought I should show it done up without any big goofs, and 
maybe someone will find something useful. 
Some of the members here know how to make such things well and proper. I know how to make 
them so they work, but it may not be the best way to do it. It's *A* way to do it, and a way that 
gives you a functioning cutter.

There are a few basics, and if you get them right, your cutter will usually work.
1) you need the cutting edges, obviously
2) you need a place for chips to escape, (flutes)
3) you need a relief of some sort behind the cutting edge, (or the edge will just rub)
4) it usually helps if cutting edges trail the centerline of the cutter during rotation
5) I'm not a tool and die maker









This time, end mill on the right side of things, three cuts are made, just over 1/2 the diameter deep, 
(see #4, above), and with a feed on the X that will barely let the end mill take a nick out of the pilot.
The material is W-1 drill rod. O-1 will work as well, and I think actually holds an edge a little better, but
it's not as handy to work with indoors.

The depth of cut part, "_just over 1/2 the diameter deep_", refers to the cut as measured from the top 
of the work piece down to where the cut ends. It needs to go just below the center line of the tool
blank. For this diameter, which is .375", I made the cuts .190" deep.  You can use approximately 
1% as your factor to figure how much over half the diameter you should go. It's a figure that
I know works for tools of diameters from 1/8" to 1/2".  It may work for many other diameters. The
ones mentioned are in my actual experience.

That nick in the pilot is to make sure that what will be the cutting edge on the bottom of the cutter will 
actually have an edge right up to the center of the pilot hole.  Otherwise, it won't cut well right next to 
the pilot hole.








Now I'm headed in the right direction, literally. Should have put a better finish on the larger diameter 
when I turned up the blank, but this will still work fine. A better finish on the end would have left a 
smoother finish at the bottom of the hole this cutter will make.










It's time to cut the clearances behind the cutting edges. The vise is slewed over about 7° to the 
right. That's not a fixed number. Six to ten degrees would have been fine. Not too much of an angle 
though, or there will be little support for the cutting edges.









The white arrow shows the edge that will do the cutting. Most of the material behind that has to be 
backed off a bit, or the whole end of the cutter will just rub. That's the reason for setting the vise over 
the 7 deg. 
Then a small end mill is used to nibble away at the material behind the edge. I left about 1/32" of the 
original edge intact. The brighter part behind the edge is the part that's been cut away. The part that 
is removed, behind the cutting edge, has to be taken down right to the diameter of the pilot. It's okay 
if you make a small flat spot on the pilot when doing this. Just use an end mill small enough so you 
don't make a very large flat.









The white arrow points to a little nub that's left after the first relief cuts. That has to be removed yet. The red line is the cutting edge, just for reference.









Here, one of the nubs is about to be cut away. The point at the red arrow is where the last one has 
just been removed. You can do what you want in the area behind the cutting edge, meaning, if you 
have to cut into it a little to get rid of things like that nub, it's okay. Just don't mess up the cutting 
edges, and it will work as it should.

Once this is done, the piece is hardened and tempered. I think that's been covered a number of times 
on the forum, so won't repeat it unless someone asks.








After it's hard, the cutting edges are honed lightly just to get the burrs off and smarten up the cutting 
edges. This is the only surface that was put to a stone. You need to use a hard, smooth Arkansas 
stone for this kind of stuff. Not some grainy old whet stone.









Works like a charm. The pilot on the cutter is used to center the bearing support, and then the recess 
is cut to hold the bearing. I ran it at 500 rpm and let it have it's own way on the down feed. 

The last thing for today is to ream the other two arms on the supports. 









I'm just showing another way to do things, here. I don't mean it's anything new, but might get someone 
out of a spot for lack of tooling, or if you own a small milling machine. 

I need to ream the last two pilot holes to 5/16", but don't have a collet that size to fit my mill, and if I 
use a drill chuck, there's not room for it mounted up under the spindle.
Reamers have a center hole in the chucking end, so I turned up a center that would fit up the spindle, 
and into a collet I have available. Then I can hand turn the reamer with a tapping handle, and while 
feeding down the spindle, ream the hole true.









Last shot of these things, (I think!). Goodness knows, everyone's seen enough of them.
The bronze bearings set in the holes that were run through with the factory reamer. The two
ball bearings fit into the pockets that were bored with the shop made cutter.

If there are questions, ask away.
Thanks again everyone!

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (Apr 30, 2010)

Dean, Ime glad your wellness factor got bumped up a notch or two.

Thanks for the info on making the cutter. 

How tight of a fit is the bearing in the pocket?

Kel


----------



## Deanofid (May 1, 2010)

Thanks Kel.
The bearings just slip in. They're too small to take a press fit. They'd be damaged.

Dean


----------



## Noitoen (May 1, 2010)

A little drop of blue Loctite won't do any harm. Keeps them from spinning but still easy to remove


----------



## kcmillin (May 1, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> They're too small to take a press fit. They'd be damaged.
> 
> Dean



Ah Yes, I know this too well. I always wondered how you guys did it.



			
				Noitoen  said:
			
		

> A little drop of blue Loctite won't do any harm. Keeps them from spinning but still easy to remove



Very Good. I will have to impliment this method. 

Thanks again.

Kel


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 1, 2010)

Nice post Dean. Helps a lot when a post explains not just how to make a part but how to make the tool to make the part. It was very interesting.


----------



## Deanofid (May 2, 2010)

Kel, I use just a dab of Locktite, too. Just a tiny smear on a spot on the outer housing. No need to coat 
the whole thing. These go into blind holes, and I want to be able to remove them.

Zee, really glad you liked it!


Just did a little today, and went very slow at it. Should be back up to snuff in a few days now.

Two more rods yet to make, and also got a start on the crankshaft. The rods are of 1/16" aluminum 
sheet, and I won't show much about them, since they are simple flat parts. 







Showing how I get by without a large vise, here. When I have to cut things that won't fit into my small 
vise, (which is just about everything), I clamp it down with a wood spacer beneath it, and one wood 
spacer top of the piece, so the C clamps won't scar the metal. Then cut away, as in the shot above.








The two pieces were squared up in the mill. In the picture above, I'm making use of a short rule in place 
of a parallel. Generally, any straight edge will have, you know... straight edges. I have parallels, but 
none this thin, and this machinists rule does a fair job in a pinch.










That's it for today. The long pieces will be the piston rods, once they are shaped up. They form a 
sandwich on either side of a couple of bushings. The crankshaft is a built up type. The short shafts are 
drill rod faced to length for the crank, and the rectangular bits are for the crank throws. Only two 
throws are needed, but I'm making two extras to use as a jig for assembling the crank pieces. 
Might get to some more of this on Monday.


Thanks for having a look!

Dean


----------



## b.lindsey (May 2, 2010)

Coming along very well Dean. At first Ithought your red M&M had suffered some terrible deforming fate, but on second glance I see it a Jelly Belly instead. Trying to confuse us eh? :big:

Really though, this is a nice project and you are doing a great job on the build so I am hoping to learn some things from that as well. I enjoyed the section on making the cutter as well...have you used them on materials harder than aluminum?

Bill


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 2, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I ran out of fresh M&Ms 'til I get back into town. I don't wanna eat that last one, but give it a lick now and then.
> 
> Tis my last one and my comfort piece. Even my battery powered Mr. Jelly Belly has run dry of Reagan fruits. Woe is me!



I'm thinking he ate (or licked away) that last M&M and found a Jelly Belly from a hoard hidden behind his Twinkies.

He's not trying to confuse us. He's trying to get away with something. I don't know what yet...but I don't trust him. ;D

I have to admit though...it's difficult to notice the edible candies when he keeps showing all that other shiny eye candy.


----------



## cfellows (May 2, 2010)

Dean, thanks for the tutorial on the counter bore cutter. I kind of knew the process, but it's always nicer to see one being made.

Chuck


----------



## Deanofid (May 2, 2010)

b.lindsey  said:
			
		

> I enjoyed the section on making the cutter as well...have you used them on materials harder than aluminum?
> 
> Bill



Bill, I've used these on steel, too. I made the cutter to put the T-slots in my rotary table, and that was A36 HRS. I had to make two cutters to complete that job.
I've made many of them, including a set of countersinks for #2 thru #10 cap screws. All made from drill rod.






They work well in 1018 CRS:






Tool life on aluminum and brass is a long time. When used on steel, they have limited life. Keep the speed down, though, and they'll last long enough to be worth making.


Zee, you have such a suspicious mind. Hmmm... Skeletons in your closet?

Chuck, thanks for checking it out!

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 2, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Zee, you have such a suspicious mind. Hmmm... Skeletons in your closet?



Yep.
And yep.


----------



## Deanofid (May 3, 2010)

Hello all;
Some more work on the crankshaft today.







The crank throws are all drilled and reamed using a stop on the vise. After the two throws and two jig 
pieces were reamed, I put a couple of pieces of drill rod through the holes in all of them, stacked like a 
sandwich. Just to make sure the holes were positioned properly.









Some filing done on the two throws and rods to shape them up.









The two rods are fastened to their bushing using Locktite Threadlocker blue. While it sets up, the small 
ends of the rods are held in time as shown above.









The two separate sides of the crank are jigged up like so to keep all the holes parallel. The pieces 
actually being fastened are shown at the red arrows. The longer piece of drill rod in the assembly, and 
the two square blocks are removed once the glue dries. For these pieces, I used Locktite Sleeve 
Retainer. It's much stronger than the regular blue kind of Threadlocker.

After those pieces set up, the con-rod is fastened between them in a similar manner. I would prefer to 
solder them, though the Sleeve Retainer will surely hold. Usually I would solder these up using two 
longer pieces of drill rod through them, then cut out the part between the throws that would become 
the longer crankshaft itself. I can see why Howell suggests to do it this way, though. Since the rod is 
captive on the crank once it's all put together, there would be a very good chance of soldering the rod 
bearing to the crank journal when trying to solder the throws to it, (to the journal, that is).

The chance for crank runout while doing it this way is increased, though. The finished piece has about .003" 
on one end, which will show up as flywheel wobble. I think it can be straightened well enough. If not, 
I'll be making this piece again.









There's today's assembly pic. 

Thanks for looking in.

Dean


----------



## Shopguy (May 3, 2010)

Very slick crankshaft construct. I suppose the throws could be pinned if there was a fear of them coming loose. Lotite is wonderful stuff.
Regards
Ernie J


----------



## Deanofid (May 4, 2010)

Ernie, thanks for the nice comments.
I have a few engines that use pinned cranks, but not needed here, for sure. Sleeve retainer is tough stuff, 
with a 3000 psi shear strength, so my puny stirling engine won't offer it any threats. ; )

Now, an apology to anyone who notices: I misspelled Loctite more than once. No "k" in Loctite. Okay.
And the second thing, the sleeve retainer wasn't the Loctite product at all. It's the Prematex version.
Sorry Loctite people. Sorry Permatex people. Sorry HMEM people. What a goof!

Dean


----------



## b.lindsey (May 4, 2010)

Great post Dean ! I doubt the Prematex or Loctite folks will mind too much...its all free and good word of mouth advertising for them. I can't let that shiny new green M&M go unnoticed either, though I am sure zee will probably comment on why it isn't blue ...lol. Keep up the nice work and very informative posts.

Bill


----------



## NickG (May 4, 2010)

Dean,

Just found this, not been on for a while so trying to catch up on some posts and see what's new. Beautiful work as always, shaping up to be a lovely engine.

Nick :bow:


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 4, 2010)

Looking great Dean.
Why is runout increased and how did you come up with .003"?



			
				b.lindsey  said:
			
		

> I can't let that shiny new green M&M go unnoticed either, though I am sure zee will probably comment on why it isn't blue



Bill, I did notice but wasn't going to say anything. I was just happy Dean had gotten restocked. I'm hoping it'll make him less mean. :big:


----------



## Deanofid (May 4, 2010)

Thanks Bill. I haven't got any calls from the shysters yet, so maybe I'm safe from the false 
advertising charges.

Nick, thank you for checking the build!



> Why is runout increased and how did you come up with .003"?


Zee, the _chance_ for it goes up.

Usually when I make a built up crank, it is done with two lengths of rod, one for the rod journal, one for 
the crank journals, and the crank journals are not cut apart, like with this one. When the two pieces of 
rod are soldered or glued to the throws, you have two solid pieces through all the sets of holes, so 
they are held true when the solder goes on. Then the pieces that don't look like a crankshaft are cut 
away. 

When you glue or solder parts together that are not easily supported in all planes, like was done here, it 
creates the opportunity to get things slightly out of line. An end of one of the shafts may droop, or, like 
for the middle piece that has the rod on it, it's easy to get a little twist in the throws because the piece 
doesn't extend beyond the throws for jigging. You can't jig it as easily to keep things lined up.

I know this crank is out .003" because I put it in the lathe and ran it with an indicator.


Tiny progress.
Shafts and pins, today. Woke up tired, so wasn't very enthused. Still dragging a bit from 
whatever it is I've got, but sure is better than a week ago!









Faced these little bits to length. This one is 1/16" dia. I sure like this collet set!









Then a little drilling and slotting.









That's it. Sorry, not very exciting, but had to be done, and now they're out of my hair.

Thanks for looking in again.

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (May 4, 2010)

Them are some small pins. How big is the shaft your slotting? How many passes did you take to complete the slot?

Kel


----------



## ksouers (May 4, 2010)

Yikes! I'm having flashbacks!

Nice work, Dean. Gotta love them itty bitty teeny tiny parts ;D


----------



## Deanofid (May 5, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> Them are some small pins. How big is the shaft your slotting? How many passes did you take to complete the slot?
> Kel



Hi Kel;
The shaft I'm slotting there is 1/8". The slot is .160" deep and I cut .020" per pass, so eight passes.

Yeah, Kevin. Some little 1/16" pins. The collet set I got for the Atlas came in handy. I'm glad they're done. You ready to start another micro engine? Your last one was obviously a big hit!

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 5, 2010)

Thanks for the explanation about the runout Dean. I'd suspected as much about why but it had sounded like you had predicted or calculated what the runout would be. It didn't occur to me that you measured it afterwards.


----------



## Deanofid (May 7, 2010)

Hello all;
Today, a little finish up work on two of the shafts made last time, and on to bigger things.








Two of the smallish shafts are supposed to have a tiny hole drilled at one end for hairpin cotter keys. 
They are to hold on the free running rod that goes from the crankshaft to one of the displacer arms. 
That's what the print wants, and what are shown in the assembly drawing, but I really don't think they 
look so good. Instead, I'll use E clips. 

I have some in 1.9mm size, which works out to about .075". They will go just fine on a 1/8" shaft.

The clips are .020" thick, so I ground up a grooving tool .022" wide.









Then grooved one end of each of the two little shafts.









Here they are with their clips. Much cleaner than having a pin sticking out of the end of the shafts, IMO.

Someone might like to note the blue M&M...










Before I go on, I got an order in from PMR today. I don't remember using their flywheels in the past, 
except one that came with a casting kit long ago. I ordered up two pairs a few days ago to see if they 
looked like they would go well with this engine. The top pair are 3.5" dia. part no. FWC-S4, and the 
bottom set are 3" dia, part no. FWC-S13.
They're both quite nice. The larger pair look to be injection molded, as the parting lines are quite fine. 
These run only $6 apiece. Very reasonable. They're aluminum.









Now, on to something fun. (Lathe work is still fun, for me.)
This piece will be the shell of the displacer can. It's drilled to depth, then bored for the proper ID and 
a nice flat bottom hole.









The piece needs to be very light, like the weight of a baby's breath. To get it light, the walls are very 
thin at only .012". The piece is also fairly long, at 1.375", and if I were to try to cut the wall thickness 
along it's full length, it would most likely collapse out on the open end.

The pic above shows how it was done, using the un-cut thick walls as their own work holding device. 
By cutting down to the thinnest thickness in short runs of about .3", the piece can support itself. Once 
one section is cut down, it's not messed with further. 

The infeed on the cross slide dial is noted, and each time another section is cut, the final pass is set at 
that mark.

This goes on until the whole thing is cut down to the .012" wall thickness for the 1.375" length.









With the thing done, it's parted off. I cut the last bit by hand with a jewelers saw so the piece wouldn't 
be damaged as it came off the parent stock.









The next piece is the cap that goes into the displacer can shell just completed. This cap incorporates 
the mounting for the displacer rod, too. All the operations on this piece are done in one setup to make 
sure the different diameters and reamed hole run on the same centerline.

In the shot above, I've put the displacer rod in the reamed bore in the end of the piece so I can check 
it with a DI. It can't have any appreciable runout.









Once I'm happy with the runout, the piece is parted off.









And that's another day's work for me. Not much, but I'm happy with the parts.









Here is the complete displacer can/cap/rod assembly. The cap is a very snug push fit, and has been 
sealed with Loctite. Same for the rod. When the Loctite is cured, the piston is checked for leaks. It 
needs to be air tight. If it's not, air will come out of it when the engine gets warm, and that's not 
wanted in an engine that is supposed to run as a closed system.

To check it, I put some water in the kettle and got it to about 200F. Then poured the water in a bowl 
and submersed the assembly. The hot water will heat the air inside the can, and if there were leaks, 
there would be bubbles. No bubbles, here.









Here's the progress shot. 

Thanks for checking in, folks.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 7, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Someone might like to note the blue M&M...



I'm sure she did. Careful there Dean. The green M&M can be quite jealous.

Some nice looking parts.
The pic after the flywheels...where you're drilling...what material is that? The swarf looks almost as pretty as a finished part.


----------



## kcmillin (May 7, 2010)

Ide say you made some great progress Dean. 

Keep it up Thm:

Kel


----------



## Twmaster (May 8, 2010)

Dean, my apologies. I have no idea how I missed you running another build... Shame on me....

This is quite an interesting engine. The work you've done with the R/T on those bases is, as usual, amazing.


----------



## b.lindsey (May 8, 2010)

Another great post Dean and excellent progress too...glad you are feeling better. Makes me feel like I am going backwards at times ;D. I am enjoying this build very much...and oh yeah....the blue M&M is duly noted.

Bill


----------



## doc1955 (May 8, 2010)

Dean your making some nice looking pieces.
Some very nice work again! :bow:
Glad your feeling up to the shop again.


----------



## Maryak (May 8, 2010)

Dean,

I admire your skill and patience in working with such small parts. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid (May 8, 2010)

Zee, Kel, Mike, Bill, Doc, Bob, _and everyone_, thanks again for your generous remarks.
It's great to hear encouragements from one's fellow builders. I appreciate the time you spend 
reading so many people's threads.



			
				zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> The pic after the flywheels...where you're drilling...what material is that? The swarf looks almost as
> pretty as a finished part.



It's aluminum, Zee. A little swarf porn, eh?
I'll send 'em to you if you want them. Yes, I saved them...

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 8, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> It's aluminum, Zee. A little swarf porn, eh?
> I'll send 'em to you if you want them. Yes, I saved them...



 Rof}

No no. If you saved them...then they must be special...to you.
I'll work on making some too. ;D


----------



## Deanofid (May 10, 2010)

Hi all:
Had some fine shop time today. The cylinder, made some time back, has been wanting it's liner, and it 
started bugging me a bit that I couldn't put a check mark by that piece until this was done. Well, it's 
checked off now.








The liner is made of brass, and amounts to a thin walled tube when done. The first step is to drill it to 
depth, then bore it out. I did the inside first so it would have the extra thickness of the un-turned OD for 
support. The bore needs to be really straight and the extra material on the OD helps stiffen the 
piece for these cuts.

It also needs a really good finish. No lines or other marks can be left in the bore or it will wear out the 
graphite piston before its time. To help in the finish department, the boring tool is set so there is very 
little clearance between the tip of the tool and its trailing edge. This makes for a longer cutting surface 
in contact with the piece, and improves finish to some degree.

I also ran the lathe fairly fast, (for this lathe, anyway), and geared the lead screw for the finest feed 
possible. When the ID was within a couple thou of finished diameter the compound slide was used to 
dial on the final cuts, and when it was almost "there", the last couple of cuts were taken without dialing 
on any cut at all. 

On that last bit, the reason for using the compound to put on the cuts is, if you set the compound to 
5.75°, then dialing in .001" on that slide will give you a cut of .0001", (due to some math stuff). I 
can't see to set the slide at that exact angle, but getting it close will do the trick. I just set it between 5° 
and 6°, and know that one increment on the compound dial will give me about .0001" cut. It's 
handy, especially on a lathe with dials as tiny as a 6" Atlas. 









I was wanting .0005" under-size, in case I decide lapping is needed despite the nice finish left by the 
tool. I still may do that. Will have to sleep on it.









With the ID done, the OD is turned down for a press fit in the cylinder. The shot above is to show 
something that may keep someone from going nuts someday; 

When you turn a tube, if the tube is long enough, it often sets off a vibration that sounds like a high 
ringing sound. Can be annoying, at best, and will really howl sometimes. Can also mess up your finish, 
because the tube is moving back and forth causing that ringing.
Wet a piece of paper towel with water, just short of dripping, and stuff it in the hole. 
Quiets it right down, and dampens the movement of the tube, which will improve the finish somewhat.










That's it, done, and it just wants stuffed in the hole in the cylinder. The interference between the two is 
.0005". The OD of the piece is .830", for those wondering. It's over 2" long, and will be very well 
stuck in the cylinder with that much surface area.

The brass liner is put in the freezer for 10 minutes, while at the same time, the cylinder is warming up 
in the toaster oven at 300° f.









The little press ready to go when the two pieces came out of the freezer and oven. 

I used gloves to hold them, and started them together by hand. The liner started right in for about 
1/2", then started to get tight as the cylinder rapidly heated up the liner. As soon as it started to stick, 
into the press with it, and push it home. By the time I got it flush with the top of the cylinder, I was 
reefing pretty hard on that press. 

I hope I never need to get it back out, 'cause it ain't gonna happen. It's stuck!










That's it for another day of fun 'n games. It was all good.

Thanks for checking in!

Dean


----------



## Twmaster (May 10, 2010)

Dean that is just slick as it gets. Nice looking parts.


----------



## kcmillin (May 10, 2010)

Good Job Dean. Thanks for the tip with the wet paper towel. I hate that ringing.

Kel


----------



## doc1955 (May 10, 2010)

Nice job Dean! 
 I'll have to remember the wet paper towel trick. I've always used a wad of modelers clay in the end to stop the ringing. That cylinder looks NICE!


----------



## b.lindsey (May 11, 2010)

Its coming together nicely Dean...its getting to that exciting point ...gonna be a beauty too. As always, an excellent post as well.

Bill


----------



## 4156df (May 11, 2010)

Dean,
Very informative post. Nicely done on the liner.
Dennis


----------



## cfellows (May 11, 2010)

Nice job on the cylinder, Dean. How well does that inside micrometer work for you?

Chuck


----------



## Deanofid (May 11, 2010)

Thanks again for looking in, gents. Much appreciated.

Chuck, I've had that inside mic for a little while now, and it seems to do what it's supposed to. 
It's from Enco, and was a cheapy (for its type). Kind of rough on the screw, and the spindle lock is 
fiddly. The spindle turns backward. The tic marks and numerals are not engraved on.
I have to say it's handy, and now I want a good one.


Now, on to stuff.
This is graphite piston day. It's a simple turning piece, but graphite is a bit soft, compared to metal, and 
it's nice if you have a collet to hold it so you don't deform it with the pressure of a three jaw chuck.

This post deals mostly with making an easy split collet to hold the graphite piece, along with a few 
general graphite tips. The subject of shop made split collets comes up here now and then, so, might as 
well show it being done for any interested builders. 










To start on the collet, find a piece of round stock that is somewhat larger in diameter than your work 
piece. In this case, my piece of graphite is 1" diameter, so I dug up a piece of aluminum from the 
left-overs box that had a diameter of about 1.25" on one end. 

The piece is trued up and turned down to 1.20" diameter on the end you see here. The big end will be 
cut off in a minute. The diameter of the working end is just a figure pulled out of a hat. The walls of the 
piece just need to be thick enough so the jaws of the chuck won't be able to deform them and hurt the 
piece that the collet will be holding. 









Now the piece is turned end for end, and the larger diameter is cut off. The piece is approximately the 
length of the jaws on the chuck. Nothing critical. Just in the ball park. Then the ID is bored for a nice 
close fit with the work piece. For this one, .001" over the size of my piece of graphite.

While the piece is still in the chuck, mark it at a point on it's periphery that falls between two jaws, and 
put a mark on the chuck body at the same location. If your chuck has a name plate, like the one on 
my fortune cookie chuck, just use that as your mark on the chuck. 
When you remove and replace the collet in the chuck, put it back in the same place each time.









Now take the collet to the mill, and slit it on that mark just made. The slit can be quite thin. I'm using 
a .032" saw here. A hack saw would do fine, too.
After the slit is cut, use a triangle file to remove the burr on the inside of the piece where it was slit.









Now the work piece can be put in the split collet and turned down to the size needed for my piston. 

Graphite is filthy stuff, but very easy to cut. When I'm cutting it, I put the shop vac nozzle right over 
the tool tip. Saves quite a bit of mess, but it's still going to get every where. Just not as much.

Use a sharp HSS tool with a small radius on the tip. If you don't put the radius on it, the sharp point 
can dig in and make little grooves in your work piece.









When I have the piece so it will barely go into the bore of the cylinder, it gets finished up with paper. 
The last little bit that needs to come off for it to be a proper fit ends up on the paper, and it burnishes
the surface at the same time. You can take off a tenth fairly quickly using paper. 

If the paper gets loaded up, get another piece.









That's my one piece for the day. 

Thanks for checking it out.

Dean


----------



## Cedge (May 12, 2010)

Lookin GOOD!! Now I'm the one watching and learning....fascinating so far.

Steve


----------



## Troutsqueezer (May 12, 2010)

I'm impressed when so much work goes into making one piece. I know it's a fairly common thing in this hobby and sooner or later I'll run into a situation where I need to do similar preparation. I hope I can summon enough patience and fortitude when the need arises. 

Very nice work Dean, and educational too. 

-Trout


----------



## ksouers (May 12, 2010)

Nice tutorial on the graphite, Dean. What RPM do you use?

Actually the subject of graphite came up in a meeting tonight, and how the dust can take out a motor on the lathe. Have you had any problems with it?


----------



## Deanofid (May 12, 2010)

Thanks guys!

Kevin, I turned that piece about 1000 rpm, which is as fast as that lathe goes the way I have the pulleys set up. Faster would be better, I think.
I've never had problems with graphite in the motor(s) on my lathes, but I've heard similar to what you mention here. I don't cut the stuff every day. I suppose if you were going to do it much, might want to figure out some kind of vented setup for the air intake on the motor. 

Aren't DC motor brushes make of some graphite compound? Wonder what keeps them going? 

Dean


----------



## arnoldb (May 12, 2010)

Very good going Dean :bow: - You're on a roll again.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 12, 2010)

Great post Dean.

Why graphite? What makes it more suitable than some other material?

I was wondering too why it was important to mark the collet prior to splitting it and making sure the collet was placed back in the same place. Does it make a significant difference in keeping it true? Or is it just important if you are going to remove/replace once cutting (on the part being held) begins?

Thanks.


----------



## SAM in LA (May 12, 2010)

Dean,

Thanks for the education.

I needed a collet like yours the other day.

I'll have to remember it.

Good idea about having the vacuum cleaner near the tool bit when cutting graphite.

I am awaiting the next lesson.

Thanks,

SAM


----------



## kcmillin (May 12, 2010)

Great Post Dean, I am learning allot. The paper trick on the graphite is a good one. I used 1200 grit and it was too much. I will definitely use paper next time.

I have the same question as Zee. How well does marking the Collet keep it true?

Kel


----------



## mklotz (May 12, 2010)

Very nice description, Dean.

I would add only two points...

Make the collet in the shape of a top hat. The "brim" will prevent the collet from pushing back in the chuck. Save these collets when you make them. You'll use them again and again.

If you need to be a bit more aggressive "sanding" your graphite workpiece, use paper cut from a brown paper grocery bag. Being a cheaper grade of paper, it's coarser and cuts more quickly.


----------



## b.lindsey (May 12, 2010)

When turning graphite, I usually put the nozzle of the shop-vac near the cut so the fine dust doesn't collect on the ways or het pulled into the motor, more precautionary but it does keep things cleaner for sure.

Coming right along Dean...how many parts to go??

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (May 12, 2010)

Arnold, Zee, Sam, Kel, Marv, Bill, thanks much guys.



			
				zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Why graphite? What makes it more suitable than some other material?



Zee, this engine has to be a pretty low friction job to run at all. Graphite serves three purposes in that regard. It's one of the best self lubricating substances us mortal hobby types can get our hands on. Really slick, and stays that way. It's thermal stability is a plus. It won't expand enough from heat to cause friction in the bore. It's really light for it's exterior dimension, meaning less mass to cause friction on the bearings and such.



> I was wondering too why it was important to mark the collet prior to splitting it and making sure the collet was placed back in the same place. Does it make a significant difference in keeping it true? Or is it just important if you are going to remove/replace once cutting (on the part being held) begins?
> 
> Thanks.



Zee and Kel;
When the collet is made to size in the chuck, you're getting rid of any runout inherent in the chuck scroll and jaws, since it's bored in place. Putting it back in the same orientation each time puts it back where it was when it was cut. The outside of the thing may have some runout because it was being held by jaws that for sure had runout. I put it back in the same place to keep its bore on centerline.

It's not perfect, but if you have a three jaw with .003" runout, (who doesn't?), and you bore the collet in place and put it back the same way, it will do better than your chuck.

Marv, I like the "top hat" idea. I have made some in kind of a reverse way to that, cutting a stepped recess inside to act as a depth stop. The collet has to be put all the way into the jaws, against the chuck face. The top hat thing would keep it out on the end of the jaws. That's a handy tip, to me!

Bill, 18 parts to go! 



I got to do the piston wrist and displacer shaft bushing today. Both of these pieces will become an 
integral part of the piston when they're done.
Quite a few pics, so I made some of them a little smaller so the page won't take too long to load.









The bushing is a simple turning with a hole reamed through its center.
In the shot above, I once again used the piece as its own support while step cutting the 
length of the bushing end that will go through the hole in the middle of the piston.










This is the piece just off the lathe. The long slender part has been left over-long. I think the piston 
needs to be finished down just a bit more than it is, and this will give me something to hold on to 
once it's mounted into the piston.










The other part for the piston is the wrist, being parted off here.










The bushing is drilled and counter bored with a shop made cutter.










The wrist is milled to take the end of the con-rods. The end mill is 1/16" diameter, spindle speed is 
5000 rpm, and down feed is .020 per pass. I use canned air to puff the chips out of the cut so they 
don't build up and break the end mill.










The last thing for the wrist is to drill the cross hole for the wrist pins.










The busing is put through the piston and set into its recess, then the previously drilled holes are 
used as a guide for hand drilling the holes through the piston. 










This is how it all goes together. The wrist (on the right) goes completely inside the piston.
I know this piston looks rough as a cob, but it is really, really smoooth. And slikery. 










The wrist is pinned to the con-rod.










Then it's all screwed together. This shows how the displacer shaft goes through the center of 
the piston.










Checking things for fit.










Here you can see the assembly from the top end. The piston is just peeking above the cylinder liner. 










The group shot, and that's it for another day.

Thanks again for looking in.

Dean


----------



## Twmaster (May 12, 2010)

Now that is really coming together. I wanna be just like Dean IF I grow up!


----------



## kcmillin (May 12, 2010)

You have a nice pile of parts there Dean. Not much left to make it seems. 

Kel


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 13, 2010)

Thanks for the answers Dean.
Looking good!


----------



## ksouers (May 13, 2010)

I like the way the piston is assembled. Both of them, now that I think about it.

How much clearance is there between the displacer piston and cylinder?


----------



## b.lindsey (May 13, 2010)

Fantastic Dean...this thing is going to be running in no time!! It's funny how digital cameras are so good these days that every minute imperfection tends to show up as you referred to regarding the piston. Drives me crazy at times. I will be out of town for the rest of the week and weekend but am taking the laptop...wouldn't want to miss a thing!!

Bill


----------



## arnoldb (May 13, 2010)

That's looking great Dean :bow:

 ;D When I saw the photo where you were holding the part in your hand, my first thought was "A piston for a rocking engine - but its too thick..." - Isn't it about the same time of the year now that rockeritus broke out last year? :big:

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Deanofid (May 13, 2010)

Mike, Zee, Arnold, Bill, Kel, Kevin, thanks much!



			
				kcmillin  said:
			
		

> You have a nice pile of parts there Dean.
> Kel



Kel, time will tell if they're engine parts, or scrap box parts! ; ) Hope for the best.




			
				ksouers  said:
			
		

> How much clearance is there between the displacer piston and cylinder?



Kevin, the can is .715", hot end cylinder is .750".  

Thanks again, all.

Dean


----------



## Deanofid (May 14, 2010)

Hello folks. Little progress report here.
Two small parts done today. Actually, started one of them yesterday, but was slow going.








This little brass bit will be a toggle link that goes between the displacer rod that comes up through 
the center of the piston, and the arm that moves it up and down. 
Just a couple of holes, then milled it out and file a while to round off the corners.









And it goes like so.









This part will be another crank throw that goes on one end of the crankshaft and moves the works 
that raises and lowers the displacer.

This dumb thing gave me the business. I picked it from one of my boxes of _scraps-&-mishaps_, (of 
which I have a few). I don't know what kind of steel it is. Some kind of tuffolium, I guess, because it 
work hardened when I gave it a serious look, and had me going to the grinder to resharpen bits a 
number of times. 

I should have just tossed it and used something else. It was only about 2" long, and it wouldn't have 
been missed. I'm a double compound knucklehead though, and just kept rubbing it with the tool until I 
got it to size. 









Here it is to its basic functional shape, though it needs trimming.









A few cuts on the mill got it near its finished shape. Still needs much file work, but I was tired of it 
by the time I got this done. I'll do the file work later.









It goes here, on the end of the crank. The flywheel for this side will fit over the inboard end of it.
Don't look too close. The camera is merciless!









Another assembly shot. Lots of fitting to do still, and quite a few parts to go. Haven't even thought 
about the firebox yet, but know it's going to take numerous hours. It's all fun 'n games!

Thanks folks, for checking it out. Have a good weekend!

Dean


----------



## SAM in LA (May 14, 2010)

Dean,

Looking good.

Just when I start feeling cocky about what I did, I look at projects like yours and wonder if I'll ever be to a level that your at.

Regards,

SAM


----------



## Deanofid (May 15, 2010)

What, Sam? You're doing good.
I didn't build something like this on my first try, you know. We all learn in our own time. No hurry.

Dean


----------



## Twmaster (May 15, 2010)

Dean, the camera is indeed an honest broker. Heh. Your rough parts look better than most of my finished stuff.

One question though. When you file on the little brass connector link do you file perpendicular to the narrow edge or along it? (Or both??)


----------



## Deanofid (May 15, 2010)

Both ways, Mike. 90° to the edge to bring it down to size, then file going the same direction as the edge to clean it up and finish. 
Depends on the material and size of the piece, too. If it's a thin piece, and not easy to clamp or pinch between pieces of wood, and the thin edge is not well supported, you pretty much have to file along with the edge to prevent it from rattling or chattering. Draw filing comes in handy in a situation like that.

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (May 15, 2010)

That is some very interesting linkage for the displacer piston. In your photo, are the crank throws 180 deg apart? I am trying to visualize it rotating in my head. Does the linkage cause it to be 90 deg off. ? I ask because other stirlings are 90deg off.

Wow, now I got even more confused writing this. scratch.gif

Kel


----------



## Deanofid (May 15, 2010)

Oh, I don't have it set, Kel. The parts are just fit together for an assembly shot, and to check for any binding in the running gear.
I think it's supposed to run at 110° out, so yes, it's close to 90°. I'll have to check the
prints to verify that.
Sorry for the confusion! 

Dean


----------



## 4156df (May 15, 2010)

Dean,

Re: the assembly photo. Wow! Love the look of the linkage and brackets.

Dennis


----------



## kcmillin (May 15, 2010)

Thanks For clarifying the timing Dean.

Kel


----------



## Twmaster (May 16, 2010)

Thanks Dean. I was wondering just how you were doing that considering the thickness.

Cool stuff. Standing by for more pics and narrative.


----------



## cfellows (May 16, 2010)

Gosh darn, Dean, this thing is turning into a work of art! Nice work.

Chuck


----------



## doc1955 (May 16, 2010)

I have to agree with Chuck 
Looking nice!


----------



## Deanofid (May 16, 2010)

Chuck & Doc; You guys are really nice. Thanks!
Appreciate you checking in!

Dean


----------



## joe d (May 16, 2010)

Dean

I've been following along. I keep saying "wow" to myself, and not posting it 'cause it seems redundant... but too bad, Buddy:

Wow. Damn fine work :bow: :bow:

Looking forward to more, even if it strains the old vocabulary.

Cheers, Joe


----------



## b.lindsey (May 17, 2010)

Hey Dean,
Unfortunately I didn't get to check much over the weekend but am trying to catch up today. The progress is truly inspiring I must say. Something about the displacer and power pistons working on the same axis that adds a whole new level of fascination to this engine!!

Anxioiusly awaiting more

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (May 17, 2010)

Joe, thanks! Redundancy is welcome. And, I do the same on your thread all the time, buddy. After 
all, with a build like yours, how many different ways can a guy say "wow"?..

Bill, I appreciate you taking the time! One of the things that got me interested in this one
was the two-pistons-in-the-same-bore situation. That, and I've decided I really like Howell's stuff.
I'm likin' that Lindsey stuff, too.


Hi all;
Some fixing, and some making, today.
Doing some assembly work before getting started on the fire box, I couldn't figure out what the heck was 
going on with this thing. I measured and re-measured everything trying to determine why things didn't fit.









Obviously, when the displacer is all the way down at the bottom of its stroke, it isn't going to fit inside 
the hot cap. Well, it's supposed to!










Finally, I realized I'd measured the rod here from the top of the small cylinder that sticks out of the 
displacer can. So, I drilled a new hole and cut off the excess, and tried it again.

Nope. The displacer didn't want to push off the hot cap any longer, but now the power piston and 
displacer can hit each other as they go up and down in the bore.

Onto screw-up no. 2...










After looking at the same thing _over and over_ on the prints, I see it. This thing is supposed to
go inside the can, and then measure from the top of the piece to locate the hole. I got that thing 
out of the can, and of course, it had been put in with Loctite. Of course, when I put it back in the 
right way 'round, the rod was too short. 'Cause I'd cut it off!! 
So, make another rod. 

Good grief.. No one will have to guess about it now. Proof I'm a goof.

Well, now things go round and round without pushing the hot cap off the bottom, or jamming
pistons in the middle. That's something!










I decided I liked the slimmer looking five spoke wheels, so faced them to the width I liked, then
drilled and tapped the hubs for set screws. Used lead shot in the holes so the set screws don't 
scar up the crank shafts, making theses hard to get on and off. I've mentioned that before on 
another build, but it's worth saying again. It will save someone a lot of trouble.










Finally making a start on the fire box, which also serves as a base for the main upper assembly.
This is the top most piece, where the cylinder will mount. Just a square of 1/8" CRS, drilled
and tapped for the mounting screws, and bored out in the middle so the hot cap can go through.

The boring head is one I made in the shop. I mention that because, yeah, I really enjoy making
my own shop tools, but I'd also like to recognize a nice fellow we have here on the forum. He's rather
quiet, so I'll toot his horn for him. He goes by "walnotr" here, and his name is Steve Campbell. He's 
the fellow who designed and drew the prints for that boring head. He's also nice enough to offer
the prints at no charge. This is a perfect sized boring head for the Taig milling machine, and would
be good for Sherline and other smaller brands. I've used it for long enough now to know it's a very
good and sturdy design. I've said it before, Steve, but thanks again.

I have a link to the prints for the boring head for anyone who would like them.











Also cut out the ceramic fiber heat gaskets for the lower end of the engine.
That's it for today. Chasing after myself, fixing my own mistakes. It's better 
than fixing someone else's. At least I know who to blame.

As always, thanks much for having a look.

Dean


----------



## Maryak (May 17, 2010)

Dean,

What's a couple of boo boos learning experiences. : : Great job and if I can keep my learning experiences at the same level as yours, I will be very happy.

Good stuff. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ksouers (May 17, 2010)

Dean,
Sorry about the boo boo. I thought it odd to be sticking the bottom like that, but hey, you have the plans. Glad it was something easy to fix. Another reason to recommend Locktite adhesives.

I had trouble visualizing how the linkage worked. Seeing the assembly shot made it all clear.


----------



## b.lindsey (May 18, 2010)

Not a bad boo-boo at all Dean. I'm happy you were able to fix it so easily and that now "too short" piece will no doubt be useful somewhere else in this or another project. I'm really looking forward to the firebox too, and how that is done. I have to admit that this was never one of my favorite of Jerry's designs...it just seemed kind of tall and gangly...but you have changed my mind. Can't wait to see this baby run!!! 

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (May 18, 2010)

Bob, Kevin, Bill, thanks again for your comments.
There have been a few scrap parts made during this project, but not too bad, yet.
Experience isn't free. You have to pay the scrap box for it.
; )

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (May 18, 2010)

The more you put into the scrap box, the more potential it has to creat you something nice. Just think of it as not throwing parts away, but storing them for future use. ;D

Lookin great Thm:

Kel


----------



## Deanofid (May 19, 2010)

Back at it for a bit, today.
Precious little done for time spent, but a couple of things, at least.








The sides of the burner are a triangle thing with the top cut off, and four of them will
form a pyramid shape that acts as a base for the engine. 
I started off cutting one out with a hack saw, but what a slow way to go! Plus, I still
had to clean up the edges on the mill. Why not just do it all on the mill in the first place??
Duh!










On the second one, I got smart. Better late than never! I'm just milling to a line here.
Not my usual habit, but in this case is appropriate. Got two of the firebox sides cut
out, two to go, and then more milling on them to form a few more shapes in the pieces.

The material is 1/8" thick CRS (1018) flat stock. Just for folks who like to know this stuff,
the end mill is a 1/4" four flute carbide, feed on the Z was .050", spindle speed 1350 rpm, 
and to make the 4¼" long cut took 3½ (edit 1½ minutes. I timed one of the cuts, 'cause I'm
sure somebody will ask. ; )

That's it. Short post. Easy reading. More soon.

Thanks for looking.

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (May 19, 2010)

Great post Dean. You read my mind. I got one question though. Are you hand cranking, or is there a power feed?

Kel


----------



## Deanofid (May 19, 2010)

Hand cranking, Kel, and this is on a little Taig mill. Bigger machines will take all you can put on the cutter.
Thanks for the comments! 

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 19, 2010)

If you answer questions before they're asked, then you provide the opportunity for people to ask the harder questions. ;D

What's the meaning of life?

Your answer should include the following:

family
friends
casseroles
chocolates
sunsets
a soft chair
some kind of drink
sunrises
shiny things
toilet paper
Paula Prentiss (oh wait...that's on my list)
a favorite smell
breakfast
at least one but no more than three secrets you'd never put in an autobiography
...
I'll stop there. I have many more but we're talking a book.


----------



## b.lindsey (May 20, 2010)

Hey Dean,

So what is the plan for joining the four sides of the base....silver soldering? welding?

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (May 20, 2010)

b.lindsey  said:
			
		

> Hey Dean,
> So what is the plan for joining the four sides of the base....silver soldering? welding?
> Bill



I dunno yet, Bill. Silver soldering has been first on the list for a while, but I'm not sure my torches will get this hot enough. Welding would be an easy way, for me. We'll see!


Zee, you already got my Greer Garson part. 
I don't care for breakfast much, and sunrises come awful early in the morning.
My "drink" is usually diet soda. Otherwise, I've got most of it covered.  God has to be there, just ahead of family.
Your list pretty much suits. Maybe replace casseroles with pizza and burgers.
Add an occupied mind. 

Dean


----------



## Deanofid (May 20, 2010)

Again, a short post today. 

I need to make a correction to something posted yesterday. I had mentioned that 
each cut when milling out the edges on these took 3½ minutes. That was a mistake!
It only took 1½ min per cut. When I had timed it previously, the timer had been
set to start on two minutes, and just added up the time when I pressed the "start" button. 
So, it should read 1½ minutes, for those of you checking up on me. 







Finished cutting out the remaining sides for the firebox/base. 









Then started filing the edges to bevel them for 45°. 
I used a protractor to check my filing, and used a double cut mill bastard for quicker 
material removal. Only got two edges done today, and will finish these bevels up 
tomorrow. Then move on to cutting some holes and arcs in the pieces.

Thanks again, for checking it out.

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (May 20, 2010)

Thanks for the correction Dean.

Did you file it down from square? Or did you remove any material with a mechanical machine first?

Kel


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 20, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Add an occupied mind.



Perfect! That's what drove me to starting this hobby. I was so afraid of turning into my uncle who sat on the porch watching the world go by. Not that there's anything wrong with that. It just wasn't for me. ;D


----------



## Deanofid (May 21, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> Did you file it down from square? Or did you remove any material with a mechanical machine first?
> Kel



Kel, the first two, I filed the 45° bevel all by hand. The last ones, I put on the bench grinder to knock off the hard edge, then finished with the file. A fair bit of metal to remove, and my wrist needed some help after a bit!

Zee, the rocking chair is a death machine. You know what I mean..



Well, seems I'm turning into a two shot post-er. Someone gave me a case of the "RATS", though, 
and just a little ways into my work day, things came to a halt. I had intended to have more to show,
and this base is starting to drag a bit. Sorry for that. Really!







Got all the edges filed to 45, and now you can see how it comes together. There are a number
of holes and things to be milled into the pieces, yet.










All of the pieces have one feature in common. There is a nice arc in the bottom of each. The
pieces are all sandwiched together and clamped to the mill table so I can cut them all at once.
An end mill is used to cut out a half moon in one edge to make room for the boring head cutter.

Everything was going along hunky dory until I dialed in a bit too much feed and popped the tip
off the cutter. Only short one I had, and it needs to be pretty short to run on this machine.
I tried another bar that has a 3" reach, but it's too long to make this much of an interrupted 
cut, and chatters badly. 

These things always happen Friday afternoon. My parts order won't even be seen until Monday 
morning, so this project will be on hold for a few days. I'm just leaving that setup until 
the new boring bars come in!

Guess I'll do some yard work to kill time 'til then.. Maybe order a load of mulch!

Thanks again, for checking it out.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 21, 2010)

A case of 'rats' isn't contagious. If you got them...you created them. :big:

Mulch however, appears to be contagious. I started with one load and ended up with three. So be careful.

I'm looking forward to seeing how you put this together. You mentioned welding? Details!


----------



## b.lindsey (May 24, 2010)

Hey Dean,

That Friday afternoon thing is probably one of the corollaries to Murphy's Law but in any event is a real bummer!! Hopefully they wil process your order first thing this morning and get that big brown truck headed your way. You gotta find something better than yard work though to fill in that wait time :big: 

What will the heat source be by the way? Alcohol burner or other?

Regards,
Bill


----------



## Deanofid (May 24, 2010)

Zee, I think it's going to be hard soldered. 
I could weld it, but that's no fun, for me. I mean, it's like tying your shoes after you worked at
it as long as I did. The only details I can think of, since you asked, (and sent rats), would be that
these plates are 1/8" thick. Could stick weld them easily, or wire feed 'em. I have both, and would
probably just wire them up with MIG or gasless wire. 

You can't fool me about rats. You had them first, and now I do. That's conclusive ev'dence.

Bill, I made the Jerry Howell burner some time back. That will do a nice job of running this, I think.


Now, y'all, check it out: I ordered a set of boring bars late Friday afternoon. The order went to Little 
Machine Shop. I've bought a few things from them before. They're nice people.
They're serious about getting a priority order out, too! 







The boring bar set happened to be on sale for $15, (the Lord smiles on me, _again!_), and I put a 
few HSS bits on the order, too. Paid $7.50 for priority shipping via USPS.
Everyone did what they were supposed to do, and the order was here today when I got home from 
seeing the doc. Really good service! LMS mailed my order on Saturday.

Funny how it goes. Tomorrow I'm headed to the airport to pickup family, and have had the week 
planned out for me by relatives. So, I don't get to continue with the project for some time to come.

Could be a lot worse than that. Could have had a load of rat infested mulch dumped in my yard.
Whew! Dodged the bullet again!

Back at this next week sometime. Thanks for hanging in there with me.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (May 24, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Could be a lot worse than that. Could have had a load of rat infested mulch dumped in my yard.
> Whew! Dodged the bullet again!



I am happy to be the dipstick by which people measure their happiness. ;D

I take it the news from doc was good? Off the antibiotics?

I've done some (quite a bit) of business with LMS. Their service is great.

Enjoy the family.


----------



## b.lindsey (May 24, 2010)

Wow, that is amazing service and a fair price for priority shipment too. Wishing you a pleasant week with the relatives, and a speedy return to the shop.

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (May 25, 2010)

Bill, we'll enjoy ourselves. There's gonna be a wedding and a lot of people moving about for a few days.
I'll look in the door of the shop a few times this week, but not much more.
All fun 'n games.

Zee, yer a funny person. Don't suppose you can help it.
Different doc, different thing. He wasn't worried, so I won't either.
Thanks!

Dean


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 1, 2010)

Hoo boy. Time to drag this thread back from the dead and show a little more progress. I was
able to get into the shop a few times the past week, despite all the family doins'. Finding time
to get things written up in a timely fashion has suffered. I'll be able to get up a couple of posts
this week, before the next batch of visitors show up.

Last time, I had just received some new boring bars so I could continue hacking out the
pieces of the firebox. Then was interrupted for a bit. So, continuing on...







A bit slow going as the radius increased, and I went through two more cutters before
I was done. Kind of easy to crack the very edges of carbide on the interrupted cuts.










There are more holes to be done, and for the next set three of the pieces get a similar hole, so
once again they are sandwiched together and clamped to the mill table. Here, a wiggler is
being used to locate the punch mark for the holes. 

If you don't have a wiggler, it's a tool worth buying. They're quite inexpensive, at about $15,
and pretty easy to learn to use. (The one I have was about $4, some years back)
They can be used to locate punch marks, holes, edges, and come with a DTI holder, too.










So, the holes are drilled and then bored to size with the boring head. 
I was able to sharpen the two new carbide boring bars that I chipped previously by using a Dremel tool 
with a small green wheel. One of the newly sharpened bars was used to finish boring these holes.










A piece of the firebox that goes to one side gets a ½" wide slot milled out so the burner
or lamp can slide in.










After some clean up with a file, I started the wiring job that will hold the parts steady
as they are soldered. 

More in a couple of days, I think.

Once again, thanks for checking in!

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 1, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I was able to sharpen the two new carbide boring bars that I chipped previously by using a Dremel tool
> with a small green wheel.



I didn't know you could that. If it happens again a before/after pic would be helpful.

Thanks Dean.

Glad to see you're at it.


----------



## kcmillin (Jun 1, 2010)

I like your step clamps. You made them yourself I assume. I just finished a tooling plate for my R/T, and was thinking about making some step clamps, but now I don't have to think anymore. :big: Thanks, hope ya don't mind.

Oh ya, one question about them. Aluminum Right? What "style" of aluminum is it? 6061, 7075?? I'm curious about the strength :shrug:, I suppose it don't need a death grip though.

Kel


PS. I would also like to see your Dremel method of sharpening boring bars. I need a better way than my bench grinder to sharpen tool bits. And tool grinders are spendy.


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 1, 2010)

Thats quite the wire job impressive :big: :big: I like it!


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 1, 2010)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> I didn't know you could that. If it happens again a before/after pic would be helpful.



If it happens again..? Rest easy, my friend. I excel at screwing up. It will happen again.


Doc, thanks. Kind of like wrapping a cat. Once you get it to hold still, you've got it.




			
				kcmillin  said:
			
		

> I like your step clamps. You made them yourself I assume.
> 
> Aluminum Right? What "style" of aluminum is it? 6061, 7075??
> Kel



Yes, shop made, Kel. 6061 if I remember right. Made them about 10-12 years ago when I had a Sherline setup. They've seen a lot of use. 
They're plenty tough for what they do. I use 10-32 hard SHCS, and you will break those screws before bending the clamps. 
Really, they're just simple copies of the commercial items you can buy, but being al, they won't scratch your work.

I'll mention the sharpening in another post. It's totally un-special. Give me a day to do some pics.

Thanks guys!

Dean


----------



## 4156df (Jun 1, 2010)

Dean,
It's a real pleasure to see your work. Thanks for posting.
Dennis


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 2, 2010)

Welcome back Dean. As usual an excellent post. Wish I had a nickel for every brazed carbide boring bar or lathe bit that the students chip here. Most can be slavaged with the green wheel if just chipped, but the really bad ones are toast. Looking forward to more progress on your build and needing to give myself a swift kick in the backside to get busy again here.

Bill


----------



## walnotr (Jun 2, 2010)

Hi Dean, I lost track of this build and have been catching up. All is looking really good! Thanks for the props on the boring head BTW. It looks like you are getting more use out of it than I do. That may change now that a Whittle V8 is starting to get built. I will be cheating by using my CNC Taig instead of building up my arm muscles twisting cranks. Sometimes I wonder if the hand crank method would be better but then I make stupid math errors and am thankful the robot is doing the manual labor for me!

I'm looking forward to the end of your build and seeing this beauty run. :bow:


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 2, 2010)

Zee and Kel, the carbide sharpening thing you were asking about is in a new thread in
the "Tips and Tricks" section.


Dennis, Bill, and Steve, thanks a lot for checking it out, and for the nice comments!

Steve, I pimp that little boring head every chance I get. I've used it quite a lot now, and am
convinced it's a solid design. The one post that shows it cutting the large half circle in the 
firebox plates is a cut equaling a 2" diameter hole, and a heck of an interrupted cut, to boot.
The material was 1018 CRS, 1/2" thick with all the pieces stacked as they were.
It says something about Taig's product, but at the point where it's all hanging off the spindle, 
that boring head is doing the work. Rigid and tough. You have a great design there, in my view.
Thanks again for the plans. I'm very pleased with it.

Dean


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 4, 2010)

Soldering time.






Took me a little time to get all the pieces square to each other. I braided some wire as 
Dennis showed in his Rudy Kouhoupt steam tractor thread. That's a good tip! In the past I've just 
used straight single strands of tie wire for this kind of thing. Twisting a loop of wire into a braid
really helps the wire stay where you put it. Thanks, Dennis!

To start with the soldering, I did the top four corners, as the piece seemed happy to stay square while
sitting upright on it's feet. I'm not new at hard soldering, (silver brazing), but don't do it enough to be really 
good at it. Still, I know how to make a decent joint. The four corners were pasted with a bit of flux, 
and each corner got a small piece of 56% silver wire.









These are the hard solders I use. The 56% is BAg-7, and the 45% is BAg-5. If you are in the U.S., all 
you need to know when you go to buy hard solder is the spec number. Ask for it by specification number,
and you will get the right stuff, no matter who makes it, whether it's from Harris, SRA, Eutectic, or 
whom ever. It can say "Super Duper Easy Flow Extra Do-Da Day Solder" on the package, but if it has that
BAg-(X) spec on the pack, it will be the same as any other maker's Super Duper brand of solder that has
the same BAg-(X) spec.
The two solders I use are cadmium free.

The flux being used is Harris brand White Brazing Flux Paste. SRA also makes a white flux paste, and it works
the same as the Harris stuff. SRA calls their flux "601". There are other flux makers, but I can't remember 
the names of them. Plumbers flux will not work for silver soldering. It burns up way before the solder
will melt.

To give an idea of how much solder is in an ounce, the thinner one in the pic has only had a few inches used
from it. It's .031" diameter and is what you get in an ounce. The thicker solder is .062", and has had a 
good bit used from it. Probably about 1/2 ounce sitting there. I used about 6" in soldering up the firebox.
An ounce of .031" silver solder of most any type is around 20 feet long. An ounce of .062" silver wire has
a length of about five feet.









Regular hardware store type plumbers torches are used for the heating. I wasn't sure if these would get 
hot enough for 1/8" steel on a piece this large, but they did okay. After the first few joints were done, 
I substituted a bottle of MAPP gas for propane. It cut down the heating time noticeably.

The torch(s) you need depend on how large your work piece is, and the material it's made from. Steel is 
not hard to keep at a soldering temperature. It holds heat pretty well. The thing is getting it up to
temp to begin with. The 1/8" sections being done here took a while to get up to soldering temperature, but
once one small area was to the point where solder started to flow, it was just a matter of chasing the joint 
slowly with the torch flames and running the heat down the joint.

Copper and brass behave differently. They heat up fast, but the body of the work also wicks heat away at a
pretty fast rate. Ultimatley, the higest temperature your torch will produce is not so much the issue when 
silver soldering. Even a tiny torch will make a 3000° flame, but it will be so small that it can't deal with
the convection that of the piece that pulls heat away from the joint. What you need is a large volume of 
heat, rather than the peak temperature that would seem to make sense to us. A large soft flame will heat
a large area to a given temp and keep it there much better than a small intensely hot pinpoint flame.  









Each corner was heated individually using one torch on the outside corner, and one torch flame playing 
on the inside of the same corner. These were done with the 56% BAg-7 solder. The stuff I have is 1/16"
diameter, and each piece was sufficient to flow down the corner about ½". I used the 56% because it melts
down around 1150° f, which is about 200° less than the melting point of the 45% type. Even using 1/16" 
diameter, it gets to flowing temp faster than the .031" diameter 45% that I have. The 56% costs
about $5 more per ounce than the 45%, but the lower melting temp is worth it. The two solders have a 
similar strength, and both are suitable for copper, brass and other copper alloys, the various steels,
and other stuff I don't know about. 









The bottom corners were done the same way, but the solder was put into the inside of the corner, since
I could get to that location with the torches easily. For these, I cut the pieces of solder about a
half inch long.

For each place you solder, as you heat the joint, the flux will start to bubble up, then the bubbles 
will get dry and crusty looking before it goes liquid again. When it makes that crusty stuff, it often 
pushes your piece of solder up a bit, raising it above the joint. Just poke it with a thin piece of wire 
to put it back in place.

The reason the flux bubbles up is the water in it is boiling away. When the water has boiled away, it
is basically a mass of dry minerals and chemicals. This brings up a point that can be made here; If
you have paste flux that's been around a while, it will start to dry out, even though you keep the cap
on the jar. If it starts getting too thick and hard to brush on, you can add a little water to thin it
out enough to make it usable. That won't hurt it in any way. If you wait too long to re-moisten your 
flux, it will eventually turn to a hard rock, and then you probably need to buy some new stuff.

When you see the flux go liquid, the heat is getting close. Watch your solder at that point. Shortly 
before it starts to melt, it will start to get a shiny/wet look to it. Right after that, it will melt, and
sit in a puddle for a few seconds before it starts to flow. Keep your heat right on the joint 'til it flows.
If you are doing, say, a 1½" long joint, you would probably start heating at one end of the joint, and 
when that end of your piece of solder starts to flow, move your heat along the joint slowly to get the 
rest of the solder to follow suit. 

If you have a gurt big torch, this will be easier, as the larger sections of the work piece will maintain
a flowing heat, and your solder will melt and get to flowing temperature all at once. 









Once all the corners on top and bottom were soldered, I knew the piece wouldn't move and I got rid of the 
wires. Then soldered down from the top about another inch and when the piece was cooled, mounted it on
the mill as in the pic above. The legs on the bottom were flat, but where the edges at the top met, it 
was a little bumpy, so I took off .015" to make a nice flat place for the top plate.









To hold the top piece on for soldering, a rod is run through the arcs in the bottom, and a twisted wire loop
run up through the top hole.









Then a small rod is used to twist the wire loop until the top piece is tight against the base.
The piece of wire hooked to the right end of the rod is to keep it from un-winding.









This is where I'll leave off today. The flux is on the joint, a few pieces of solder sitting there
waiting for things to get hot.

Thanks for checking in.

Dean


----------



## 4156df (Jun 4, 2010)

Dean,
Another great tutorial! Thanks for posting. I'll be tuning in for the next exciting episode. 
Dennis


----------



## joe d (Jun 4, 2010)

Dean:

Lots of good tips in this thread... thanks! looking forward to more :big:

Cheers, Joe


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 5, 2010)

Dean, again thank you. That was a very thorough expanation of silver soldering. I got lucky at the junk auction Tuesday evening and bought a Bernzomatic brazing torch for $1.00!!

I have work for the little beastie.


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 5, 2010)

Thank you, guys! I appreciate your comments.

Mike, what do you have planned for your torch?

Dean


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 5, 2010)

Another great post Dean, and a very nice looking base as well. Can't wait for the next installment.

Bill


----------



## SAM in LA (Jun 5, 2010)

Dean,

Thanks for the education. I seem to learn something from you every time your post.

Kind regards,

SAM


----------



## ttrikalin (Jun 5, 2010)

Thank you for this thread which I just found about yesterday... 

Read it all, slowly, very enjoyable. Kept me up till 3 am this morning. 

take care, 

tom


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 6, 2010)

I must say Dean nice job again!

 I didn't realize that a propane torch would get hot enough to actually melt the silver solder. I have done very little silver soldering and most of the time it was been at my real job. But I have always use acetylene oxy. 
 I really like how you kept things together with the wire I would of been trying to clamp things together with clamps and usually it's a struggle. I see the wire approach really works nicely! 
I LIKE!!


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 6, 2010)

Bill, Sam, Tom, and Doc, thanks much for following along with all this stuff!


I left off with the top wired to the base, and flux and silver solder bits set in place. That was done
in four heats, similar to the other corners.

_The next few paragraphs concern things that those of us who have experience "hard soldering", _
(silver brazing) _may find boring. *Skip it if you like*.  People who are newer to "hard" soldering
may find something in it._ 

Something should be said about fluxing and pickling, maybe. The proper types of flux are discussed earlier, 
but I didn't say anything about how much to use, or metal preparation. You need to have your metal pretty 
clean, whether soldering steel or copper and its alloys, (brass, and etc.). 

For steel, I just shine up the area that will form the joint with some fine wet or dry paper, or steel 
wool. Don't use steel wool like you find in scouring pads, such as SOS pads. They're full of soap. 
Use the kind you find in the painting section of the hardware store. After that, a quick wipe with a 
paper towel moistened with a grease cutter, such as camp fuel, (naphtha).

For copper alloys, do it much the same, and a dunk in your pickle for a few minutes helps, too. Then rinse
it in water and dry your parts and solder them. After each heat, pickle the piece again to prepare for the 
next soldering go 'round.

For a pickle, I just use ascorbic acid, which is also called citric acid, and often sold as vitamin C powder
in stores in the U.S. It's safe for your skin, and does a pretty good job of cleaning metals both before
and after soldering. I don't know a proper recipe for making ascorbic acid flux. It comes in 8 oz plastic
bottles in my area, and I mix one bottle of it with 2-3 quarts of warm water and dissolve it well. That 
works, so that's how I do it.

After soldering, either steel, copper, or brass, I wait for a few minutes, then dunk the hot piece in the
pickle to clean the flux off. Sometimes it works quite fast, and sometimes it takes an hour or so before
I'm happy with the appearance of the piece. Scrub it with someone else's tooth brush if you have some stubborn
parts that don't want to come clean, Wash the piece in soapy water when it's done and rinse off well
to prepare it for the next heat.

I don't know a definite lifetime for the pickle. After it's used a little, it will turn yellowish-orange, 
but it is still good as long as it's working within in a reasonable time. Ascorbic acid doesn't cost that
much, so when mine starts slowing down a little, I just make up a new batch. The same batch lasts me a few 
months from the time I mixed it, depending on how often I use it.  

Copper and brass seem to be more particular about being cleaned between heats than steel is. 

For fluxing, when you put flux on your piece, more isn't always better, but it doesn't do any harm to the 
joint. It will run around on your piece though, and some solder may want to follow it. You'll figure out
how much is enough. The thicker the joint, the more it will need.

If you can, flux the edges of the pieces to be joined before you assemble them for soldering, but don't 
fret about it if you can't. If you have a number of joints to be done on a piece, you can't really flux the
individual edges, so just put it on the outside and carry on. Some folks put flux on the soldering wire as
well as on the joint. I can't tell that it makes a difference, really, as long as you are putting your bits
of solder right in the joint before you start your heat. Suit yourself on that point. We have our own
preferences. 










After hard soldering the top piece, I filed off the little bits that ran outside the grooves. As can be seen,
I didn't get a flow quite to the corners on this edge. If it was a pressure vessel, it would need to be
re-heated for that bit, but this firebox is only going to be holding up an engine that weighs about a pound.
It will hold up a full grown man as it is, so I'll not be reheating it for that tiny bit.

I think the whole thing could have been done with soft solder, really, since I'm pretty sure it will not be getting
up to the temperatures that would be needed to melt soft wire, but I decided not to take chances. All the corners
at the top and bottom of the piece have now been hard soldered, and just for appearances, I'm going to fill
in the small spaces that would show up as lines when the piece is painted using regular solder.










I ran 96/4 tin/silver solder over all the joints to form slightly raised fillets, then filed everything off 
flat. This is purely for cosmetic purposes, and does nothing to hold the piece together. A pretty easy
exercise with soft solder. It was fluxed right over the hard solder, and a soft flame on the propane torch
was applied until the flux 'browned', then run the soft solder over the joints at a temp that barely lets it 
flow, so it piles up a little bit.

After all the corners are done like this, it's a pretty easy job to file everything flat. Soft solder files
very easily.










I fit up the engine assembly to the base and snugged up the mounting screws enough to seat the displacer cylinder
to the base of the engine cylinder to seal it and provide compression. The engine got hard to turn each time 
I snugged up the screws. Finally I decided it was because the displacer can was rubbing on the inside of 
the displacer cylinder. I had tested it before I soldered up the mounting plate to the firebox/base, and things
rotated as they should. 

Maybe the plate on the top of the firebox had warped a bit when heating it for the hard solder. It did get really
hot, after all! So, back in the mill, which was still set up for this piece from the last milling step. 
It was warped, all right. There was about .015 bow in it, which was causing the displacer cylinder to tip and bind 
when I tightened down the engine assembly. A few passes with an end mill had things flat, once again.

That's it for this post. I know it's a lot of writing for only three pictures, but I had some 'splainin' to do.
Thanks to anyone who actually read all of it. Thanks to anyone who looked at the pictures. If you did both,
wow! Thanks twice!



Dean


----------



## joe d (Jun 6, 2010)

Dean

You're welcome. Twice. :big: :big:

Cheers, Joe


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 6, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Thanks to anyone who actually read all of it. Thanks to anyone who looked at the pictures. If you did both,



Darn right I'm doing both...and more than once. I'm not about to miss any good tidbits and there's always some to find in your posts. Thanks Dean.

I went to three pharmacies a couple of days ago looking for citric acid powder. They say it comes in granules and I'd have to order it. Not a problem...but I'm wondering if anyone finds it at a national store (U.S.)


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 6, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Mike, what do you have planned for your torch?



I have a brass cased clock conversion project in mind. Your dissertation on soldering has been a huge help. Of course the little torch will come in handy for other jobs with little engines too!


----------



## shred (Jun 6, 2010)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Darn right I'm doing both...and more than once. I'm not about to miss any good tidbits and there's always some to find in your posts. Thanks Dean.
> 
> I went to three pharmacies a couple of days ago looking for citric acid powder. They say it comes in granules and I'd have to order it. Not a problem...but I'm wondering if anyone finds it at a national store (U.S.)


I got a few lbs at a nearby homebrewer supply place for not many $. I've not found sufficient quantity in major stores for it to be worthwhile.


----------



## mklotz (Jun 6, 2010)

I bought citric acid and alum (for dealing with broken taps) from these folks...

http://www.americanspice.com/catalo...acid&_ssess_=d0bd318390fa4f8d1a783f4b3562b47a

It couldn't have been more than two days after the shipment arrived that a friend gave me a Mason jar of alum he'd come across while cleaning out the garage.

BTW, if you want an index relating common names such as alum to their proper chemical names, the one at...

http://www.chymist.com/Common chemicals.pdf

is useful.


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 6, 2010)

Joe.. :big: Thanks one more time!

Shred and Mike, your comments are appreciated.
Mike, hope you'll show us what you make for your clock conversion! (Clocks are "engines", too.)

Zee, thank you.  If you have a health food store near by, they should most surly have it.
I live in near a very small town. Most everything but the banks is 'Mom 'n Pop'. Our pharm has it,
and so does the health food store. I guess it actually is 'granules'. Looks like super-super fine sugar.
Sorry for the terminology mixup.

Marv, thanks for the links. The common names list is truly useful!

Our little pharmacy has alum, too! I guess I just have it good here, everything in one place.

Dean 

Oh, hey, after looking down the list that Marv provided in the link, it says 'Fruit Fresh' next to ascorbic acid. That stuff is available in the canning section of the grocery store.


----------



## ksouers (Jun 6, 2010)

Dean,
Thanks for the write up on hard soldering. I've done it, but by no means am I an expert. It's always great to get another perspective on how to do things.

So, this thing should be running soon, eh? (sorry, couldn't resist ;D)


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 7, 2010)

Dean,
Not to detour (too far anyway)...i know you are going to use Jerry H's burner with this engine. I have had the plans for ages and would at some point like to build it for use with several sterling or atmospheric engines. Did you use Jerry's plans for the regulator or something else. The burner itself doesn't bother me, but i suppose the regulator part of it has kind of put me off from making it. 

Just curious as to what you did.

Bill


----------



## arnoldb (Jun 7, 2010)

Dean, thanks (twice!) for the excellent write-up.

I find citric acid in the grocery shop; in the section dedicated to ingredients for baking cakes & bread. Usually right next to the tartaric acid (Sherbet anyone ?) ;D

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 7, 2010)

Kevin, Bill, Arnold, thanks again for your encouragements and comments!



			
				ksouers  said:
			
		

> So, this thing should be running soon, eh? (sorry, couldn't resist ;D)



Kevin, patience, patience. You have a very short time to wait! 

Bill, one more post, and I'll have a short line about that burner. I'll have another post up
this evening, sometime after this one. More patience!

Arnold, thanks again for your steady support!





Back to the flywheels for a bit, now that the brazing and soldering is all done.
The flywheels I got from PM Research are very nice, but they are not quite large enough in diameter. They
will make up the center and spokes, but they need a steel 'tire', or rim, around their OD. First, to make 
them bigger, and second, to add a bit to their weight at the circumference. 










I went to one of the local welding shops to pick up some suitable tubing to turn down to the proper size.
They let me dig around a bit for what I want. I know some of the guys, and the owner, since I used to work
with them. When I found what I wanted, I had a couple of pieces cut off in ½" slices. I found some DOM*
tubing that was just right on the ID, leaving me a few thou for cleanup. 

Onto the lathe, faced off one end to clean up the saw cut, and bored it 'til it was still slightly smaller 
than the flywheels.
I ran the boring bar to within about .020" of the chuck jaws before starting the cutting, and set my depth
stop so I wouldn't run into the jaws of the chuck.

*DOM is sometimes called machinists tubing. The letters mean 'drawn over mandrel'. It machines fairly well,
and is usually very close to the nominal size for OD and ID.











When the inside was done on the two pieces the outside jaws on the chuck were changed to the regular ones 
and the pieces were faced off to length. Next the OD was turned down. The OD was 4", and needed to be
brought down to 3.75". I had to remove the chip guard from the cross slide lead screw so the piece wouldn't
foul against it, so stuffed some tissue in there. HSS works well on this stuff.

These two simple pieces took me three hours to turn up. I've mentioned before about being a slow worker. 
The machine is only so big, and it takes as long as it takes. And, I couldn't see the cross slide dial
with the slide cranked all the way back to do these pieces, so did a lot of measuring. And, I only bought 
two pieces. If I goofed and had to drive out to the welding shop to buy more, it would take more time, 
and the guys would all know that I'd bodged up a job. Incentive to take my time and not screw up.
That's my story.










With those done, I need to turn a bit off the flywheels so they'll fit the rims. 











First, make up a quick arbor to hold the flywheels. 











The short part on the back of the arbor was turned down to clear this drive pin.











Then, button up everything tight, and skim the OD of the two flywheels until they fit into the
two rims. Then they are put on the surface plate using shims to get the flywheels centered in
the rims, and some blue Loctite used to hold them fast.











Time for an assembly shot. Still a surprising amount of work to go, but it's getting there!

Thanks for looking.  I'll have another post this evening. 

Dean


----------



## NickG (Jun 7, 2010)

Looking really nice Dean thanks for sharing your fantastic work.

Nick


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 7, 2010)

Dean that is really looking nice :bow: Nice job on the flywheels!
You sure take some nice pictures. 

B-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l !!


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 7, 2010)

Ahhhhhhh. Your post is like taking a dunk in the pool after a hot day.

Thanks Dean. I needed that.

I really like those flywheels and it's really starting to come together isn't it?


----------



## 4156df (Jun 7, 2010)

Dean,
"DOM" tubing...I've already learned something new this week and it's only Monday! Your engine is coming along nicely.
Dennis


----------



## mklotz (Jun 7, 2010)

Dean didn't mention it so I will. DOM tubing has the further advantage that there is no weld seam on the interior surface. It's a nice clean bore - important if you want to slide something into it and don't want the hassle of removing the obstruction, which can be difficult if the piece is too long to bore.


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 7, 2010)

Nick, Doc, Zee, and Dennis, again and again, thanks!

Marv, that's a good point. I've used so much DOM, I forget to mention the details I'm familiar with.
It's also telescoping in many of the available sizes. There is a wide range of wall
thicknesses for each OD, and most have an available wall that will fit nice and close to a corresponding
OD of the next size down. 

For instance, 2" OD comes in wall thicknesses that will take DOM in smaller sizes, like 1", 1¼", 1½", 1¾" 
and so on, (and in-between increments, too). It's quite strong, too. Has a fairly high yield strength
compared to many other common steels.



Okay, I know some people want to see it run.








Just using the valve on the propane bottle to get this flame adjusted as you see here. Simply
haven't got around to making a regulator for it, yet. I took the burner head off the propane torch
and use a piece of hose coupled to a reducer to bring it down to the size of the blue silicon tubing
that is attached to the small burner. Then crack the valve on the propane torch to let a little 
fuel flow, and open up the valve on the small burner. I just watched it a few minutes, slightly
adjusting the propane torch valve until I got the size flame I wanted on the burner. 

That will work for now, but I do need to make a regulator so I can use the small burner without
all that messing about to get the flame right.

After setting the engine over the little burner, I let it set for about 30 seconds and give the wheels 
a sharp turn.
Fhttt, Fhttt, Fhttt, for a few seconds. Let it set another 30 seconds or so and gave it another quick turn.










There it goes.




[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlfmhmaVuNQ[/ame]




And another one after I finally remembered to set the stupid white balance on my ancient camera!
Hope it's a little better.




[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DK8ZgGl3Y3s[/ame]


You can hear it start to slow down a bit toward the end of the vid. Trying to run the camera and
keep a firm grip on the engine, I was moving the engine around a little, which was moving it around
on the flame of the burner. It wants that flame right up the center, and when it's not, the speed
varies.

It ran on for another two minutes after I stopped the video. I timed it. Then the fins on the power
cylinder started getting too hot to maintain a good temperature difference between the top and bottom
of the engine and it slowly lost rpm until it stopped. I think I'll be building a small fan for it 
and run it off the long crankshaft end using a pulley I still need to make.

Seems awfully loud. Part of that is because it's not bolted down. I still have to make the feet, and
other pretty things for it. Part of the noise may be coming from one of the bearings,too. Not quite snug
enough in it's bore, and I need to Loctite it in. I'm hoping for something quieter, but never having
seen this exact engine run before, I'm not sure what to expect. 
Note: On a third run today, I put it on a mouse pad. What a difference! Much quieter, and I feel 
better about it.

I'm thinking of painting the burner/base black. With brass feet and brass burner door, along with some gold
striping accents, it should look decent. Then, red for the centers of the flywheels, and polished up
rims to set it off. And some kind of base with rubber feet!



Thanks for checking it out.

Dean


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 7, 2010)

Wow Dean that baby really humms along you have done a super job :bow: :bow:
I love it if I get my current build done I may have to try and follow in you foot prints!
She is a beauty *very very nice work* Dean !
Congrats on a wonderful build Dean!


----------



## kcmillin (Jun 7, 2010)

Wow, Congratulations Dean :bow: :bow:. 

I was like a kid opening a present when I clicked on the video. Very excited I am 

It runs very fast, must have some gusto as well Eh.  Should have no problem running a fan. 

I think it will look allot better than decent, that is one slick little engine. Worthy of the best finishing treatments.

Extremely well done Thm: Thm:

Excitedly yours,
Kel


----------



## joe d (Jun 7, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> And some kind of base with rubber feet!



Dean: WOOD! That brown stuff! :big: :big: :big:

Joe

PS Looks & sounds good already


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 7, 2010)

It looks and sounds great to me Dean. Wonderful stuff.
Congratulations too.
It's going to look like a real stunner if you do everything you say you're going to do.


----------



## ksouers (Jun 7, 2010)

WOO HOO!!!

That's a runner! Congratulations!

That thing just rips right along, doesn't it!


----------



## Blogwitch (Jun 8, 2010)

Very nice indeed Dean. 

It looks to have an excess of power, could it be used to drive something?

Just a question about the burner. Did it leave any sort of residue after use, or was it 'clean' ?


John


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 8, 2010)

Incredible Dean !! I didn't get to check last night and was surprised (pleasantly so) to see the vids this morning. Knowing that it runs, and runs so well should make the detailing work all the more fun too. She's a real beauty already, and with the paint scheme, feet, pinstripes, etc. she'll be drop dead gorgeous!!

Nicely done indeed.

Bill


----------



## putputman (Jun 8, 2010)

Dean, congratulations on a good runner. :bow: :bow:
I'm sure you are happy to see the end of this build, but I for one am not. You have provided so much good machining detail and other helpful tips on soldering, materials, etc. that I hate to see it come to an end. I have thoroughly enjoyed following this build.

Looking forward to your next project.


----------



## kustomkb (Jun 8, 2010)

Looks and runs great!

Nice work Dean.


----------



## mklotz (Jun 8, 2010)

Dean,

That's just super! Great job and very professional presentation. Aren't you, like me, astonished at just how fast a Stirling can run, given that its whole action depends on rapidly heating and cooling a volume of gas?

Those big flat panels that form the base are probably acting as loudspeakers to magnify any small mechanical noises. I would volunteer that it would be a lot quieter if you could puzzle out some means of damping their ability to vibrate. As an experiment, you might want to try attaching some (shudder) scrap wood to the panels to see how it affects the noise.


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 8, 2010)

Doc, Kel, Joe, Zee, Kevin, John, Bill, Arv, Kevin, and Marv, Wow, you guys. Thanks for the great response!

Doc, Kel, Kevin, yes it really runs fast. I didn't expect that.

John, it has a surprising amount of power. I can pinch the end of the crank with my fingers fairly firmly and it just keeps going. The prints show the crank flush to the flywheel, but I left it long for a pulley. I think it will run a fan and a small accessory at the same time.
With the burner set to a nice double cone blue flame, there is no soot what-so-ever. Very clean. The bottom of the hot end is just as clean as when I first turned it.

Arv, like you say, I'm kind of glad to have the hard stuff done. I can just relax and finish it out, which will still take me a couple of weeks. You know how it is, though. About half-way through a project, you start wanting to be done with it to move on to something new. I'm there.

Marv, this isn't my first stirling type, but it's surly the most powerful. To think it all comes from only a few cc's of air in a closed system, it's kind of astounding. It seems pretty amazing that such a small amount of air can transfer heat so quickly.
I think the majority of the noise was coming from my bench. The noise level went down considerably when I set it on a rubber mouse pad. Then it just sounds like a rapidly rotating mechanical movement, instead of like a two cycle engine!

Again, everyone, thanks so much for the comments. It's not done yet!

Dean


----------



## hobby (Jun 8, 2010)

Beautiful workmanship, 
and an excellent smooth runner.

Very well put together build thread as well.

Great job all together.. th_wav


----------



## Maryak (Jun 8, 2010)

hobby  said:
			
		

> Beautiful workmanship,
> and an excellent smooth runner.
> 
> Very well put together build thread as well.
> ...



IMHO hobby said it all - Congratulations Dean. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## arnoldb (Jun 8, 2010)

:bow: :bow: Dean, that is a very nice runner ;D :bow: :bow:
I saw it earlier today, but couldn't respond :-[ - my "own" rules at work :-[ - "look, but don't touch" :big:

Very informative and inspirational thread (as always from you ;D ) - thank you!



> It's not done yet!


 I'm paying full attention ;D - imagine things getting even better, eh  

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Troutsqueezer (Jun 9, 2010)

Dean, I've been pondering my next engine and haven't considered something like a Sterling until I saw yours run. What a fine job you did! Kudos, and thanks for the thread!

-Trout


----------



## Blogwitch (Jun 9, 2010)

Thanks for that Dean, now I know I am on the right track with the small burners.

John


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 9, 2010)

Hobby, Bob, Arnold, Trout, thanks so much for your continuing kind words! I admit to being 
somewhat uplifted from hearing from you and so many others the past few days. What a nice 
crew we have here!

John, glad that's what you needed to know. It's really a nice clean unit when you adjust it to
a soft blue flame. And, I finally have a use for it! 

Best regards, all!

Dean


----------



## idahoan (Jun 9, 2010)

Dean

I just would like to say I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread and look forward to seeing the finished project.

Great job!

Dave


----------



## NickG (Jun 12, 2010)

Very impressive Dean, it does seem to have oodles of power for a stirling!

Nick


----------



## Omnimill (Jun 12, 2010)

Nice work, and I like the burner!

Vic.


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 12, 2010)

Like the others I am just wowed by this. Quite an ingenious design. And a magnificent presentation by you. Awaiting the finished engine. Can't imagine as it'a already a beauty!


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 15, 2010)

Dave, Vic, Nick, Mike, thanks much for the comments! 

Had a few days with no shop time, but got back to it today.








Got the base painted. I don't know if it will get hot enough to mess up regular paint, so did this in heat
resistant black. It's supposed to be gloss. It was until I followed the directions. The can says it won't
be cured until it's been heated, so after putting on a few coats, I popped it in the oven at 300° f for about 
an hour. After it had cooled, it came out kind of semi-gloss. I guess that's how it's going to be.









I got started on the feet, which I've been putting off a bit. Using a piece of brass flat stock, laid out one
end and used that end as a guide for all the others. The center for the radius that's being cut with the boring
head is a point somewhere off the surface of the work piece. I cheated a little, and instead of figuring out
where that point falls in mid air, drew out the measurements on a piece of paper, then used a compass to mark
one radius line on the work piece. Then set the boring head to cut that radius, and just moved the X and Y around
until the arc of the tool followed the arc drawn on the piece. 

The Y table was locked, and the X dial set to zero. I counted all the turns as I cranked the X back away from
the tool until it would make a first cut of about .050" into the arc. Then kept cutting away, and after each pass
with the tool, cranked the X in another .050" and cut down through it again, and so on until I got back to my 
starting point on the X axis.










After the first cut, the piece is flipped over, and all done again. I used a small adjustable square as a work
stop, adjusting it off the piece after the first arc was cut, and using that setting each time I reset the piece
for another cut. Before starting each arc, I ran the cutter over the piece turning the spindle by hand to make 
a mark as seen in the pic above. That way, if I lost count of the dial turns, I would still be able to see where
to end the cut.










Here is one end with the arcs done. After this one, I didn't do anymore marking out. The next cuts were done
on the other end of this piece, and then the two ends were cut off and squared up, then the same was done again,
until I had four feet.










It was kind of a slow process, but after a few hours I had the feet roughed out.










A pin was put through the holes in the pieces and with all the arcs lined up, they were locked in the vise to
take a cut off the flats and get them all to the same length.










The flat part has to have a large 'V' cut in it to fit over the corners of the firebox. To get started with 
that a slot was cut right down the middle of them.










After the slot has been cut, a countersink is used to start the sides of the 'V'. 
If the milling machine you are using is on the small side, you have to go a bit easy when cutting
a 'V' in this manner. The gibs need to be adjusted up properly to keep the tables from wanting to 
wander a bit. The deeper you go, the heavier the cut becomes because the angle of the cutting
edges make the tool "bigger" with each cut. So as you get deeper, take smaller increments on 
your cut.

This is where I ended today. I'll show finishing up the 'V' next time, if I don't goof them up.

Thanks for checking in!

Dean


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 15, 2010)

Those are going to to look sweet Dean!

*Nice!*


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 15, 2010)

Dean!

I'd been waiting to see what you did with the sides of the base. I missed it. I saw the solder at the top and bottom. What, if anything, did you do to fill the edges?

The paint job is awesome.

I didn't realize it had feet. I had to go back to the beginning of the thread and look at the engine.

How do the feet attach to the base?

The flywheels are great!


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 15, 2010)

Doc, thanks!

Zee, thanks to you, too! 
On page 12, post #178 the first pic in that post shows the top after it's been silver brazed onto
the rest of the firebox. The corners of the side plates are also done like that, as you saw.  Then, in the 
next pic you can see where I ran regular soft solder over the one brazed joint to fill in the corners and 
give a little excess, (so I can file it flat). All the other corners all the way down are done the same
way over the top of the silver joints, and over the middle sections of the joints where there was no
solder at all. Then it was all filed flat so the joints all the way down the sides appear seamless. You 
can see the piece before it was painted in the third pic of that post #178. At that point I've filed off
the excess soft solder and blended it a bit with wet'n dry.

On the engine that Howell built, he soldered the feet to the bottom corners of the firebox, then painted
them. I want them to be natural brass color, so after I get the large 'V' groove cut in the feet, I'll put
a shallow bevel on the inside of the two sides of the groove to match the taper of the firebox. Then,
when they are tightened down to a wooden base, they will pull down the firebox and pinch it into place.
That's the plan, anyway...

Thanks again for the comments, guys!

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (Jun 15, 2010)

Sounds like a good plan to me Dean. Thm: Should work like a champ. But hole placement in the wooden base is going to be critical. 

What type of wood have you decided upon?

Kel


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 16, 2010)

The base looks phenominal Dean. I didn't realize the hi-temp paint had to be cured so I learned something already today. I went back and looked at the picture on Jerry's site to see the feet. I think your approach should work just as well and the final appearance will be the same if not visually even more appealing with the contrast of the brass against the black.

Bill


----------



## arnoldb (Jun 16, 2010)

That base looks great Dean.

I had a similar problem with the high temperature paint I used on Fred the loco; It was nice and glossy, and after baking turned matt after baking. But actually, its started to turn glossy again after a couple of running sessions; I don't know if that's because of getting oily water sputtered all over it from starting from cold (condensation in the cylinders) each time and getting a wipe-down after running, or if its just with some "age".

Regards, Arnold


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 16, 2010)

Aw c'mon Dean. You really should make the base out of Stainless. This way it won't rust or get termites!


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 16, 2010)

Kel, Bill, Arnold, Mike;
Thanks again for taking the time to leave your comments, guys! Much appreciated.

Kel, dunno what kind of stuff this is that I have. Mystery wood! 
All wood is a mystery to me.

Mike, that's not a bad idea. At least I know how to deal with steel! Somewhat, anyway.



More shop time today. It's (still) getting there.








To finish the large 'V' shape that will fit the corners of the firebox, the piece is turned up on its side. One
of the flats that was formed with the countersink is used to get the parts squared to the spindle.









Then all the waste is milled away.









Since the firebox sides are angled toward the top, the 'V' cut on the feet can't fit up tight against it.
See the large gap on top?










So they will fit properly, a bevel is filed on each edge of the 'V', including in the corner.









I made up a couple of filing buttons. They're kind of an odd size, and I doubt I'll need them again,
so just made them from CRS. If they needed a common size, like 3/8" or 1/2", I'd use drill rod and
harden it so they would last for more than one job. The radius on these is something like .205". Not
likely I'll have another one like that for a long time. Or, I'll have on on my next job...


I got the inner parts of the flywheels painted, and found a suitable board to mount the engine. 
Time for a trial fit-up.




Everything's just sitting there for the moment. Not really bolted down.






















Whaddya think? Too much red?
(The base and flywheels are from the _same can of paint_. Some lighting trick makes 
them look different. They really are the same!)

Still more to do! Getting close, though.

Thanks again for looking in.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 16, 2010)

Wow Dean.
That looks fantastic.
I don't know what else to say.

In your earlier post, I didnt' know what you meant about how the feet were going to pinch. Now I do.

Wow Dean.
Looks great.


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 16, 2010)

Man it sure is a nice looking engine speechless wow!! :bow: :bow:


----------



## ksouers (Jun 16, 2010)

I think it looks just grand!


----------



## kcmillin (Jun 16, 2010)

Great Job Dean. :bow: 

The black and red is a great combination.

Excellent job. Thm:

Kel


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 16, 2010)

As Keanu Reeves would say...

Woah!


----------



## NickG (Jun 17, 2010)

Looks amazing! :bow:


----------



## AndyS (Jun 17, 2010)

Hi Dean,

I just wanted to add to the comments that say 'WOW'

I love stirling engines but have not got around to finishing one yet, but to see this run is a beauty.
I wonder if this could easily be turned into a Stirling fan, especially as summer is finally underway here in blighty and each year i think of building one. Someday soon maybe......

Love the engine, loved the video.

Well done

Cheers

Andy


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 17, 2010)

Wow indeed!!! I think it looks perfect just the way it is..can't wait to see the final running video  Super job Dean!!

Bill


----------



## 4156df (Jun 17, 2010)

Dean,
It looks terrific. I think the colors are just right. Beautiful workmanship, too.
Dennis


----------



## arnoldb (Jun 17, 2010)

Great looking colour combination Dean :bow: - and no; not too much red ;D

Regards, Arnold


----------



## SAM in LA (Jun 17, 2010)

Dean,

The red and black look nice together. Perhaps some black pin stripping on the base would help break it up a bit. The brass corner pieces are a nice touch. I appreciate the detailed instruction you give in your build posts.

Thanks for sharing,

SAM


----------



## joe d (Jun 17, 2010)

Dean:

That's looking good. I really like the little brass bits pinching the corners. About that wood stuff: is that RED oak? :big: :big:

Cheers, Joe


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 17, 2010)

Zee, Doc, Kevin, Kel, Mike, Nick, Andy, Bill, Dennis, Arnold, Sam, and Joe; Wow you guys, thanks
for so many kind remarks! I'm humbled to have so much company from so many fine fellow builders.



> I wonder if this could easily be turned into a Stirling fan



Andy, it would surly run a fan that would move room air, but I think it wouldn't be practical to use
some thousands of BTU to run it. I mean, the flame to run the engine would heat the air in a warm
room even more that if you didn't have a fan at all. 
There are a number of designs and plans for stirling fans out there that are a dedicated fan design.
They still need a flame to operate the mechanics of the thing, though, producing more heat on an
already hot day.  Doc is building one now, (doc1955). Look for his thread in this section for more
info on stirling fans. 

Sam, pin striping is on the list of things to do yet. I found some gold paint I think will look good
on the firebox and base. That's if I can do it without it looking like finger-painting!

Thanks again, everyone.

Dean


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 22, 2010)

Yo Dean,

Was just checking in to see what doing on your beautiful build. Very much looking forward to the final pics and video.

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 22, 2010)

Hi Bill; It's getting there. Always seems to be 'one more thing' to do. You know!

Making the door that goes over the cutout area on one side of the firebox where the burner slides in.








I laid out for this on a piece of 1/8" brass sheet, then cut it out with a jewelers saw.









I've never been really good at this, even though I've done it a lot. I always end up with lots of file work.









After the piece was mostly finished off with the file I made a small bushing that will allow the 
door to swing to the side when it's mounted. Some flux and a small piece of 45% silver wire, and
it was ready for the heat.
The wire on the bushing is holding it down so it will stay flush with the back side of the door.








Another piece is cut out for the door handle, and finished to the correct shape with the file.









The piece is clamped to the door, and again, flux and a couple of bits of 45% silver wire. 
I did just this end with the 45% wire. The part in the middle and the end at the top of
the door next to the bushing was done with 56% wire. Using the different silver alloys
I don't have to worry about the bushing at the top falling off when I do that end, since 
45% wire melts at a higher temp than 56% wire. 
The 45% silver wire is called BAg-5. The 56% is called BAg-7. That is, if you're in the U.S. 










After getting the door handle brazed on, the piece was put in the mill and the back milled flat.
The heat had warped the piece a little and the milling was to surface the back so it will
fit flat against the firebox.









I milled down the front a bit too, partly because of the warp from the previous brazing heat, but
also because I goofed when doing the last heat on this piece. In order to get heat to the back side 
of the piece I had tilted it up at an angle, with the eye at the top of the door quite a bit higher
than the bottom of the piece. The 45% silver stayed where it had been on the end of the handle, since
it didn't get hot enough to flow, but when the 56% got to flow temp, a good deal of it ran down to the 
bottom of the door and made a puddle. That all got milled away.

When the silver alloy ran down, it also left a visible groove where the handle edge meets the door. 
I admit to being a little frustrated at what was a simple brazing job, and ready to be done with it, 
I decided to just run a line of regular solder over the visible groove. Then it was filed and sanded.









That's one more piece done, and the last thing on the prints. In the next few days I hope to get a
pulley made for the crankshaft, and a small fan built that will run off the pulley and cool the fins
on the cylinder. I'll have the finished pics at that time, along with a video of the thing running
in its completed state. 

Hopefully just a few days to go.

Thanks again for checking in!

Dean


----------



## ksouers (Jun 22, 2010)

The door looks very cool, Dean. I hope you're going to leave it unpainted.
The bare brass breaks up the black surface just enough to add some depth.

Very cool, indeed.


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 23, 2010)

I have to agree with Kevin. That looks grand in nekkid brass.

Your work never fails to amaze and astound me.


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 23, 2010)

Thanks guys! Bare nekkid brass it is, then. 

Dean


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 23, 2010)

What can i saw.....bare nekkid is always good :big: Nice job on that door Dean!

Bill


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 23, 2010)

Looks gorgeous Dean.
I really like those feet too.

When you silver soldered the door, does it get cherry red as the solder melts? You know why I'm asking.


----------



## 4156df (Jun 23, 2010)

Dean,
That's a great looking door. Good things seem to happen whenever you get your jeweler's saw out.
Dennis


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 23, 2010)

Bill, Zee, Dennis, thanks again, fellows!

Zee, yes, the brass was starting to get red hot, especially the thinner door handle piece. On smaller pieces, where the heat has nowhere to go, (I mean, no place for the heat to be wicked away), things will get red hot fairly fast.

Dean


----------



## SAM in LA (Jun 23, 2010)

Dean,

You are really moving along on this build. The brass on black looks really nice. I'm looking forward to seeing your engine run.

SAM


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 23, 2010)

Wow I like that door Dean it looks super!
I still haven't taken the time to do a little practice run on silver soldering.
Looks great!


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 23, 2010)

Sam and Doc, thanks again for your comments!
Sam, it runs! I made a short video of it going before I did any paint work. It's a few pages 
back if you would like to see it.


Working on the little cooling fan today. I didn't do any drawings for this thing. I'd been thinking
about it for weeks. I know where it has to go, but still haven't decided how to mount it. It will be
mounted (somehow) under the back flywheel and run off an o-ring "belt". 

Building the fan itself was a nice afternoon of simple shop work. 









For the fan hub I used a piece of 3/8" brass. First, the pulley groove was cut using tool with a 60°
tip. The tool was ground from a piece of 1/8" HSS. When it had been plunged in to the depth I thought
I wanted, I just fed it toward the headstock until the groove was wide enough for the 1/16" thick o-ring.
Then a 1/8" hole was reamed down the center.

Then five slots were cut to hold the fan blades. To start on the slots, I used an index plate on the
headstock to make five little marks next to the edge of the pulley groove. After that each slot was
cut with a jewelers saw using the little marks as a spacing guide. The slots appear to be curved, but
that's an optical illusion. They're just cut straight onto the shaft.









This is the simple setup I used for cutting the slots. I put my small bench vise at an angle of about 40°,
and starting at one of the five marks made on the lathe, started cutting until I had a slot long enough for
the blades I had in mind. Once the first slot was done, I put a mark around the circumference of the piece
at the end of the first slot so I would know where to end the other four slots. 

The blue line shown in the pic above was drawn in after I took the picture. I had cleaned off the original 
line I made before I remembered to take a pic of the setup.

The 40° I chose for the angle of the slots just came out of the air. You have to get that kind of stuff
from somewhere! The reason I set the vise around was so I could make straight lines. Knowing I would
have the piece oriented the same in the vise each time I rotated it for a cut, I just kept the saw at 90°
to the edge of the bench to make my cuts, and all was well. Precision eyeballing. 









The next thing needed was the blades. I cut a strip out of a piece of .010" brass, measured off five spaces
that would give me a fan of 1.5" diameter, and cut them off with scissors.









Cutting them makes the edges curl enough to make them unusable, so I smashed them all flat in the vise. Then
put all five pieces together in a sandwich and pinched them in a small machinists clamp and filed all the
edges square.









When I was happy they were all the right size, (and the same size), I used a pair of tweezers to put a small
bend in one end of each blade. In the pic, it looks like the end comes to a point, but that's actually
where the small bend is in the piece.









With that little bend, the piece is effectively wider than the slot, and when they are pushed into the slots
they stay put long enough that I can get them soldered up. At the arrow tips you can just see the bends,
if you look close.









These were done with regular solder. Using pliers, the solder was smashed flat enough that it would 
help me keep it from getting everywhere, maybe.









With the blades soldered onto the hub, it now needs a ring of thin sheet around the OD of the blades.
The same .010 brass sheet was used for this step. After cutting it with the scissors I spent a little
time with the file getting the long edges parallel. When I was done with that bit, the piece was wrapped
around a 1" piece of round stock to get it to the correct diameter for the blades. The brass sheet is
kind of springy, so the piece had to be wrapped to a smaller diameter. When it was released from the 
round stock, it opened up quite a ways.









A piece of aluminum round with a hole the same size as the hub is used as a fixture, first to make sure
the blades are all even, then to hold the outside ring in position with the front of the blades. Then,
more soldering.









I think that will work. It was pretty easy to get too much solder on the joints, since the flux ran all
over the place, and the heat was a little hard to control on such thin sheet. 

When I figure out how long it needs to be, the back end of the hub piece will be cut off.

Wanting to see if it worked well enough to be worth while, I put it a piece of 3/4" round stock in the lathe,
put the fan on a 1/8" shaft, and using an o-ring, powered it with the round stock in the lathe. 
It blows a satisfying bit of air, which is what I was wanting. Doesn't even wobble too much!

Thanks again for checking in!

Dean


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 23, 2010)

Some day I want to be like Dean.... M&Ms and all!!


----------



## 4156df (Jun 23, 2010)

Dean,
That's a very nice fan and a neat technique. About your 40 degree angle...when I made the exhaust fan for my tractor I spent way more time than it was worth stewing over what the "proper" angle should be. I ended up with about 40 degrees for no good reason. Interesting that we both came up with the same angle. I bet we could start a holy war on some boards regarding what that angle really should be.
Dennis


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 23, 2010)

Dean nice I was thinking the same along the line of flattening out the solder I was planning on giving that a try when I work on my fan. I have a ways to go to get there. Have you ever tried flattening silver solder and doing that? If so did id work out.
The angle of the blades in the fan I'm working on is 32 degrees. It has been to warm and humid for me to do any shop work I need to get air. 

Precision eyeballing  :big: :big: I like that comment!
I also like your smiley face plate.


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 24, 2010)

Another great photo essay Dean, and a nice result on the fan and given its small size and the thinness of the blades, impressive work as well. Speaking of small, I saw an ad on TV last night for some new M&M's with pretzels inside them. I can see the prodution line now...all these people with magnifuing visors on and using tweezers to twist all those teeny tiney pretzels. Gonna have to buy some of those and dissect one to see how it's done. Anyway...great post as always!!

Bill


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 24, 2010)

Very nice Dean.
Nice tip on bending the blades so they stay seated.
Was it pretty fiddly?
Looking forward to seeing it all run.


----------



## SAM in LA (Jun 24, 2010)

Dean,

Your fan came out well. ;D

When soldering such thin materials, how did you control the heat so the parts would not just burn up? scratch.gif

I found your video on page 13. I had seen it before and just forgot about it. My forgeter works great, its my rememberer that gives me problems. ;D

SAM


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 24, 2010)

Mike, Dennis, Doc, Bill, Zee, Sam, thanks to each of you once again! I always appreciate
everyone's comments.




			
				4156df  said:
			
		

> About your 40 degree angle... I ended up with about 40 degrees for no good reason. Interesting that we both came up with the same angle.
> Dennis



Yes, it's kind of strange, Dennis. If you remember, some months back we both made a steam lubricator on the same day in completely unrelated posts. We must be cosmically linked. 
Boy, I sure got the better part of that deal! 




			
				4156df  said:
			
		

> I bet we could start a holy war on some boards regarding what that angle really should be.



And if that didn't work, we could almost surely get one going on gears... !




			
				doc1955  said:
			
		

> Have you ever tried flattening silver solder and doing that? If so did id work out.



Doc, yes, I've flattened hard solder wire. It's about like flattening baling wire. I use a ball pein on a mild steel plate and beat the pucky out of the wire. It will get fairly flat but takes some work.
I've also used my arbor press, but it takes some serious grunt on the handle. Hammer is probably better.
Regular solder should do fine for your fan blades, though. Using that, you wouldn't be able to pull them apart with all your strength. Surly wouldn't get that much force on them just spinning at the rather lazy rate that a stirling fan rotates them.




			
				zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Nice tip on bending the blades so they stay seated.
> Was it pretty fiddly?



Zee, the fan blades stayed in the slots just fine while I soldered them. Fiddly part was getting the outer ring round and making a butt joint on that with the solder.




			
				SAM in LA  said:
			
		

> When soldering such thin materials, how did you control the heat so the parts would not just burn up?



Sam, I used a regular propane torch and turned the flame down low as it would go without going out. Then just didn't get it too close to the piece and all was fine. These were soldered with normal solder, not brazing wire, so didn't have to get terribly hot.


Thanks all!

Dean


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 24, 2010)

Thanks Dean!
 I'll see how my test pieces go when I get there.
 I may change the plan to soft solder instead we'll see how it goes.


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 25, 2010)

Today's post shows building the bracket for the fan. I thought of three or four ways to do it, but they
all ended up seeming 'clunky' the more I thought about them. Settled on something fairly straight forward,
and hope it fits in with the general theme of the engine. 









Laid out what looked right on a piece of 1/16" brass sheet.










Then more saw work. Bet people are getting tired of seeing this sawing stuff. Well, there won't be
much more of it! (Yes, it's finally, nearly, almost done!)









When the piece was sawed out and filed a bit, I put it into the vise with the long skinny part sticking
up and laid a piece of wood against it. Tapping the wood from the side bent the piece over nicely.









I turned up a small bush that will hold a stud for the fan to rotate on. Using regular soft solder, I 
snipped off a piece about 1/16" long and dropped it into the hole in the bush. A drop of flux in the hole
and a quick shot with the propane torch an it's stuck.

The regular solder I usually use for things that do not need high silver content brazing wire is called
96/4 solder. On the package it will probably say "Silver bearing solder", which is exactly what it is. 
It's soft, 96% tin, 4% silver, and for a soft solder is plenty strong. It needs a liquid flux like Harris 
Stay Clean if you want to get the most from the solder. With that flux it will flow very
well, and easily solder copper alloys and most kinds of steel, and copper/brass to steel. PM Research 
sell it as a soldering kit for their models, hobby stores carry it under the Harris name, and I think 
Home Depot has it for internet orders. The solder and flux come in the same package. 

After soldering, the bush was used to guide a drill bit through the brass sheet, the end of the piece past the 
bush is cut off, and the corners rounded over with a file.









That's the piece finished up.









Mounted to the engine with a mock-up shaft for the fan.









Fan goes on like so. The shaft will be cut to length and I'll either thread it for a nut
or cut a groove in it for a circlip. 

At this point, I just need to make a pulley for the crankshaft to run the fan. I'm not at all sure
I like the brass fan against the aluminum of the engine. I may paint it to match the flywheels. For
certain, if I leave it brass, it will need to be finished off better.

It's almost done. I had been pretty enthused about pin striping the base after seeing Dennis' beautiful
Kouhoupt steam tractor, but after playing with it for a while trying to get practiced up for it, I'm
now reluctant. The opportunity for a royal screw-up is pretty evident after trying it a number of times.
It may just have to be the way it is!

One more shop session should see this engine done. Won't be long now.
Thanks again for checking in!

Dean


----------



## mklotz (Jun 25, 2010)

Dean,

With those nice flat surfaces, would it be possible to cut your pinstriping design into a sheet of self-adhesive paper, apply it to the base and then hit it with an air brush or a rattle can?


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 25, 2010)

Very elegantly done Dean and definitely in keeping with the engine!! I agree as to the brass vs. aluminum and think either the red or the black would look just fine. Those thin blades and outer band might be a little difficult to clean up to suit you if not painted also. This is a fine piece of machining (all of it) on a nice Howell design. What a fine addition to the the collection. As our Aussie members would no doubt say..."good on ya!!!'

Bill


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 25, 2010)

Marv, that's a great idea. I think the print shop has some kind of transfer/masking sheet. They might even be able to do patterns from my prints. Thanks for putting the jelly back in the old bean.
You mathematicians are awright.

Bill, thanks for confirming my thoughts on the metal color mismatch. Sometimes another view helps put things in perspective.

Dean


----------



## 4156df (Jun 25, 2010)

Dean,
Hope you'll try the pens. If the base paint is dry, you can always wipe off mistakes. 

However, Marv may indeed be on to something. But rather than self adhesive paper, go to Michael's(or any other craft store) and look for a masking material called "Frisket". Hobby shops or art supply stores might have it too. It's used by airbrushers for masking. Very thin and easily removable. 
Regards,
Dennis


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 26, 2010)

Hobby shops will have the liquid paint mask. Although it may be called something like liquid mask. The RC car guys use it for painting their lexan body shells.

I too have to agree the fan looks out of place color wise against the silver of the cylinder. Not sure what I would do about it though if I were in your shoes.


----------



## Maryak (Jun 26, 2010)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> I too have to agree the fan looks out of place color wise against the silver of the cylinder. Not sure what I would do about it though if I were in your shoes.



Very nice fan. :bow: :bow: Black with red blades ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Blogwitch (Jun 26, 2010)

> Black with red blades



and don't forget the rhinestones and sequins. : That would give Marv a real thrill.

Very nice work Dean.

John


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 26, 2010)

Sounds like more painting is in your future.
I think it'll look great.


----------



## mklotz (Jun 26, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Marv, that's a great idea. ... You mathematicians are awright.



Despite not being "real" people?


----------



## kcmillin (Jun 26, 2010)

That is one FAN-tastic looking fan you got there.

Well Done Thm:



Kel


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 26, 2010)

Thanks again all, for more nice comments and suggestions.
I think the blades need to be red, and the OD ring around them, along with the 
mounting bracket should be black. 
It makes it easier to paint over something when I get a little help from friends.

Dennis, I'm still thinking about the stripes. It may not come for a while, depending
on what I can find here as an aid.



			
				mklotz  said:
			
		

> Despite not being "real" people?



Heh, I wonder how many know what you're talking about, Marv.
Well, I do. You're fairly well redeemed, at this point.

Thanks all. Gotta go. Another poor relative is getting hitched this morning and I'm
expected to witness the affair.

Dean


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 26, 2010)

Well, that wedding I wanted to attend didn't last very long. Both were eager to say "I do". 
Short and sweet.

This will be the last post where anything is being made. Finally!

All that is left is a stepped pulley needed to run the fan, and what ever else I may like to hook up to it.
The pulley is of aluminum and has three drive grooves of different sizes so it will have a few different ratios.










The pulley is 1.5" dia at the largest end, and the other two diameters are stepped down from there. The grooves
were cut with a 60° tool, then widened enough that a 1/16" o-ring fit nicely. It's drilled and reamed for the
crankshaft diameter, the waste cut off, and that's it. Last part!



With no more parts to make, I painted the fan and mounting bracket, and I think I've decided I like it as it 
is now. I went back and forth on painting the fan rim black, and came to the conclusion that I like the red.
Pin stripes, I think, will wait until I've looked at this thing for a while to settle on it.  

Time for the finished shots, then.




















Couple of close ups, warts and all:

















Can't do a video until Monday. I bought the wrong sized o-ring, and it's so tight the engine
won't turn freely. It's about 1½" too short and is stretched to it's limit. I have it put on 
for pictures, but will have to get a new one Monday, and I'll have a new video sometime Monday evening.

Thanks to all of you who stuck with me to see this out! I sure do appreciate the many remarks, suggestions,
and tips, and time you all took in making your comments!

Dean


----------



## SAM in LA (Jun 26, 2010)

Dean,

That is one fine looking engine. :bow:

An easier way to pin stripe is to use the tape.

You can put it on, and if you don't like it, just peel it off.

I think that I would let the paint cure for a while though.

Can't wait to see it running.

SAM


----------



## ksouers (Jun 26, 2010)

Looking really sharp there, Dean. At first glance I didn't like the all red look of the fan, it seemed to be too much. But the more I look at it the better it fits. Excellent choice.


----------



## kcmillin (Jun 26, 2010)

Incredible looking engine Dean. 

The red paint turned out beautiful. 

Looking forward to the video.

Kel


----------



## GailInNM (Jun 26, 2010)

Very nice Dean.
Gail in NM


----------



## ozzie46 (Jun 26, 2010)

Very nice indeed Dean. Bravo.

  Ron


----------



## putputman (Jun 26, 2010)

That really turned out to be a sharp looking engine. The colors set it off nicely. It makes a beautiful avatar also.

Looking forward to the vid.


----------



## b.lindsey (Jun 27, 2010)

Just perfect Dean !! If there are any warts they sure don't show. The fan and pulley turned out great and I am anxious to see how much improvement you get in cylinder temp over longer run times. Arv beat me to it, but the first thing I noticed this morning after signing on was your nes avatar. 

Looking forward to the video once you get the o-ring sorted out. 

Dare I ask what you have up your sleeve for your next build?  ;D

Bill


----------



## 4156df (Jun 27, 2010)

Dean,
It's a beauty! The fan and black stripe look just right. Looking forward to the video.
Dennis


----------



## arnoldb (Jun 28, 2010)

Very well done indeed Dean :bow: ! And thank you for the build log; it was most educational 

Arnold


----------



## joe d (Jun 28, 2010)

Dean

Another one that was a pleasure to follow along, and the end result was well worth the trip!

Nice work, Sir :bow:


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 28, 2010)

Sam, Kevin, Kel, Gail, Ron, Arv, Bill, Dennis, Arnold, Joe;
Thanks again for so many kind remarks!

Not My First Failure!

I hate to say it, but I have a case of Zee's bumness today. I got the new o-ring for the fan. That's the
only positive thing that was done, though.

I said I'd have a video today. I should have just said "soon" so I wouldn't make myself a liar.
Apparently, I got something out of whack while assembling after all the paint work, and it just 
doesn't want to run well at all. 
I have four other videos of it running just fine before it was painted, one of which was put up
here a few pages back. I haven't figured out yet what I'm missing in the set up process that 
I didn't miss on previous runs. After a few hours of changing piston timing, crank timing, checking
bearings for tight spots, and etc., etc., I was getting a bit of a frownie face, so decided to set it
aside for a day. These things happen. I have a fair number of engines under my belt, and I 
know things simply don't go right sometimes. It's one of those times, guys!

I'll be back! A day or two spent twiddling things will work wonders. Especially when I go at it
in a better mood.


For what it's worth, it did run for a short time, but I didn't think to grab the camera until after I'd just
turned off the burner. This is a very short vid of it winding down, running a few seconds on residual 
heat. 

Sorry for the disappointment. It'll get better!

Dean



[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7IDrUC_7mU[/ame]


----------



## SAM in LA (Jun 28, 2010)

Dean,

I'm confident that you will find that little gremlin that is hiding in your engine.

You didn't use E85 for fuel, did you?

SAM


----------



## Twmaster (Jun 28, 2010)

A little shot of 'Gremlin Be Gone' and all will be well!


----------



## ksouers (Jun 28, 2010)

Must be the day for Gremlins, Dean. I had them all day at work, as well.


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 28, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> a case of Zee's bumness today.



Careful there. That kind of stuff can stick with a guy. I don't want to be known as spreading 'Zeep-itis". ;D

Did you try running it without the o-ring?

I'm sure it's going to be easily taken care of.

Turn that frown upside down. (Where the heck have I heard that?)


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 28, 2010)

I'll be looking for the gremlins, guys!

Zee, I don't think it can stick to anyone. If it could, a lot of us here would have the same nick name.
At least it's not something like Throat-Warbler Mangrove. Really wouldn't want that to stick.

Yes, I tried it with and without the o-ring. Something else is amiss, as it ran like crazy previously. 
Just a bug or two. May have found one of them, and the arrow in the pic below shows another 
part I suspect:

























It's all fun 'n games. Pretty sure I can fix almost any part in it!  ;D
Dean


----------



## doc1955 (Jun 29, 2010)

This is just a thought Dean wasn't the door missing (not built yet) on first run?
Maybe it is the heat isn't drafting the same. Just a thought.


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 29, 2010)

That's good thinking, Doc. I'll be checking that out.
Thanks.

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jun 29, 2010)

As they say in my business Dean, "That bug is sweating now."


----------



## NickG (Jun 29, 2010)

You'll get there dean, could be a draft thing.

There's no chance of the displacer leaking since you reassembled is there? I found that to be the problem on my stirling engine not only when I was trouble shooting but when I got a sudden drop in performance one day, but my sealing arrangement probably wasn't as good as yours.

Nick


----------



## kcmillin (Jun 29, 2010)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I'll be looking for the gremlins, guys!



You didn't feed them after midnight, Did You? :big: :big: :big:

Im sure you will get her figured out. Maybe she's just a little shy in her new dress. :big:

Although this Gremlin isn't very shy at all.
http://cache.gawker.com/assets/images/io9/2009/04/gremlin.jpg

Kel


----------



## arnoldb (Jun 29, 2010)

I think I see your problem Dean ;D - You must have some bug poop in one of the bearing joints; that just does not work for lubrication...

Seriously though, have you tried running it as-is but without the O-ring to drive the fan to see if it runs like earlier?
You added the drive pulley, belt drive and fan - and from your video the o-ring belt looks like it's "slapping" about which will add "funny" varying loads to the engine's main shaft. Just a thought from a complete newb who still want to build a couple of stirlings in future  - so just add a pinch of salt!

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## Deanofid (Jun 29, 2010)

Thanks for the comments, fellows!



			
				zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> As they say in my business Dean, "That bug is sweating now."



Hope so, Zee!




			
				NickG  said:
			
		

> There's no chance of the displacer leaking since you reassembled is there?
> Nick



Hi Nick; That's a good thing for anyone to check if they're having striling troubles. I did check it
by putting it in water at near boiling temp. No leaky.

For others wondering about the boiling water thing, if a displacer can has a leak and you put it in
very hot water, bubbles will come out at the point of the leak(s).




			
				arnoldb  said:
			
		

> Seriously though, have you tried running it as-is but without the O-ring to drive the fan to see if it runs
> like earlier?
> Kind regards, Arnold



Hi Arnold; I did try it a number of times without the belt, thinking it was causing the trouble. The vid 
with the belt wobbling was on one run that I had put the belt on the wrong pulley groove. 

Yesterday, before quitting for the day, it did run each time I tried it, a total of about seven or eight tries.
Just didn't run very well at all, barely keeping itself going for a minute before stopping.
After each attempt I had to let it cool down for half an hour or so in order to start from cold. On all 
those tries, I concentrated on timing events thinking I just had something a little off from the
reassembly, or from running the fan.

I didn't get to mess with it today. It was put off by paying jobs. It's in pieces now, and I _think_ I know
what's wrong.  I'll tell about it, what ever it turns out to be. We'll see what tomorrow brings!

Thanks all, for the suggestions!

Dean


----------



## Deanofid (Jul 3, 2010)

HA! Figured out what the problem was.

One of the crank throws came loose at the main rod journal. Was hard to see it when the engine
was assembled, because the crank uprights kept things lined up pretty well.  When grasping the 
flywheels in each hand and turning opposite directions, I could feel a little catch, like it wasn't solid.

It wasn't!






So, I got them lined up and held in a vise, then drilled and pinned them. More better.

Now it runs just like it did in the test run before I had painted it, though somewhat quieter
since it's now on a base with felt feet.

Here's the vid. I started it off without the fan belt on, and when it was going, put on the belt.

A funny thing will happen right after I put on the fan belt. I thought it was funny, anyway!
About halfway through the vid, I set down the camera for a few seconds to put on the belt.
Watch the fan. 




[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cArNQX7CVxk[/ame]


I had put the fan shaft in with Loctite. The bushing that holds it gets pretty hot! We
know what happens when we heat Loctite! It looses the 'tite' part of it's name!
I'll make up a new fan shaft with a press fit... later.

Thanks to everyone who followed along. This engine is done. 

Dean


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jul 3, 2010)

Congratulations Dean.
That is a fine looking engine.
And this was a great thread...so much to learn.
Thank you.



			
				Deanofid  said:
			
		

> This engine is done.



Oh really?

I sometimes wonder if an engine is ever really done. I suspect many of you think you've finished but I bet you ask or say to yourselves...
"hm I wonder how it would work if I..."
"hm wished I'd done...it would..."
"hm..."


----------



## Deanofid (Jul 3, 2010)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> I sometimes wonder if an engine is ever really done. I suspect many of you think you've finished but I bet you ask or say to yourselves...
> "hm I wonder how it would work if I..."



I kind of already went that direction with the fan. It wasn't part of the original prints.
You see how that turned out... Got spit out like a black olive from a martini!

Thanks Zee. 

Dean


----------



## kcmillin (Jul 3, 2010)

Congratulations Dean on a fine build and a beautiful Engine. :bow: :bow:

your right, that was kinda funny when the fan came off. Reminds me of many many times in the shop with "Experimental" devices. Its just a learning experience, and Im glad you shared it with us.

Kel


----------



## ksouers (Jul 3, 2010)

Hey Dean, I kinda liked the fan.

Though I rather expected it to take off like one of those old pistol toys that wound up a propeller then released it.

Glad you found the problem, and that it was a simple solution.


----------



## Twmaster (Jul 3, 2010)

That fan has so much power it pulled it's self right off of there!!

I too am glad you got the issue sorted out.

Methinks maybe the loctite was trying to tell you something on both those 'events'.


----------



## Deanofid (Jul 3, 2010)

Thanks again for the comments, guys. Glad some of you found the fan 'lift off' as funny
as I did.

I got that fixed, and fired it up for another go. Ran out of batteries after about 15 seconds
and the camera shut down. It's long enough to see that it works well, though. Actually, it
blows more air than I thought it would, and was puffing the flame on the burner around quite
noticeably. Usually, the flame is pure blue, but the extra air going into the hole in the firebox
was turning it yellow. 

You can see my hand trying to reach into one of the bottom arches to reach the air mixture
on the burner, but couldn't quite see to get it and run the camera at the same time.

Short 'n sweet, here's another one:


_
For those who missed it, there's another new video in the previous page!_





[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1m1h506Dv0[/ame]



Dean


----------



## Blogwitch (Jul 4, 2010)

What a great runner Dean, and a great build as well. :bow: :bow: :bow:

As with all things we experiment with, it is far better to have the fan fall off, rather than have the s**t hit it.


John


----------



## b.lindsey (Jul 4, 2010)

Thanks for the vids Dean....both of them. So can you tell yet how much improvement you get in run time with the fan vs. no fan? Im sorry to see this one come to an end but will be looking forward to the next build. Just a super job all the way around!!

Bill


----------



## zeeprogrammer (Jul 4, 2010)

Beautiful engine Dean.
Great thread too. Very enjoyable, fun, and educational.

Thanks!


----------



## SAM in LA (Jul 4, 2010)

Dean,

I knew you would figure it out.

What a nice running engine and its easy on the eyes too.

Regards,

SAM


----------



## 4156df (Jul 4, 2010)

Dean,

Beautiful engine and a sweet runner. Well done.

The fan coming off during the video is part of a common natural phenomenon known as the "Demo Effect".

Dennis


----------



## walnotr (Jul 4, 2010)

Dean, your fan flying off reminded me of a short video I did while working on a tool changer for my mill. I couldn't help adding sound effects.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6lsIhTQAc8[/youtube]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6lsIhTQAc8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6lsIhTQAc8[/ame]

Let's see if I did the link the right way.  

Steve C.


----------



## Twmaster (Jul 4, 2010)

Hope that didn't leave a mark!


----------



## Deanofid (Jul 5, 2010)

John, Bill, Zee, Sam, Dennis, Steve, Mike, thanks again for checking it out!

Bill, I don't know how much longer it will run. Before the fan, after about three minutes it started slowing
down. Last time, with the fan, it went six minutes on a timer when I just decided it was good, and 
shut off the burner. That's probably long enough between oiling the crank bearing.



			
				4156df  said:
			
		

> The fan coming off during the video is part of a common natural phenomenon known as the "Demo Effect".
> 
> Dennis



Now, that's a good one, Dennis. I wonder if it means "Demo-nstration" or "Demo-lition" ?  ;D

Steve, now that's machinist comedy! I think you need to show us more of that when it's 
not flinging parts!


Dean


----------



## walnotr (Jul 5, 2010)

One of these days I'll get back to the tool changer. Once I quit making Whittle scrap. Too many boo-boos today and lots of bad parts came off the mill. :wall:


----------



## kustomkb (Jul 5, 2010)

Congratulations Dean.

A great runner/looker for sure.

Great thread too,

Thanks.


----------



## joe d (Jul 5, 2010)

Dean

This finished up nicely. By the fact that you are posting here, I can assume that you have recovered from working with that woodstuff? Enjoyed following along, as has become the standard with your threads. Sooooo what's next?

Cheers, Joe


----------



## Deanofid (Jul 5, 2010)

Well Steve, when the Whittle lets you rest a bit, the tool changer would be a neat thread.

Kevin (KB) and Joe, thanks!



			
				joe d  said:
			
		

> Sooooo what's next?
> 
> Cheers, Joe



Oh, I just don't know. Almost surely tooling projects, and may even spend some time
earning some dough!  What a novel thought!

Dean


----------



## SBWHART (Jul 6, 2010)

Great looking engine Dean and a great build thanks for taking us along

Stew


----------



## NickG (Jul 9, 2010)

Brilliant Dean, anyone would be proud of that achievement. Do you think the fan actually provides some cooling and prolongs running then?

Nick


----------

