# Swifty's build of Rupnow engine.



## Swifty (Jul 23, 2013)

Hi everyone, have started building Brian's engine, the only minor changes that I am making is to use metric fasteners, bearings and gears. I will be cutting both the spur gears and mitre gears myself.
I had a piece of material that I could make the head out of, so I made that first. I picked up some more aluminium offcuts a couple of days ago, and some bearings yesterday, so this morning I cut up the plates to enable me to start machining. I don't have a bandsaw yet, so using a combination of a slitting saw in the mill and a 120mm dia circular saw fitted with a blade for aluminium, I managed to prepare everything.




Now, back to the workshop.

Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Jul 23, 2013)

hey welcome to this build
so far so good


----------



## Swifty (Jul 24, 2013)

Managed to get a few hours in today, machined plates to size, drilled, tapped and reamed all the necessary holes in the base and side plates. Would have got more done, but my son dropped in and we went out for a few hours to do some errands and have lunch together.

Next I will mill the steps in the side plates, make the bearing caps, then bore out for the bearings.




Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 24, 2013)

Hi Luc, thanks for the welcome to the build. I cannot work on the engine every day, but will do my best.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jul 24, 2013)

Swifty--Great Progress!!! I am pleased to see another build of this neat engine. I hope you have fun, and come up with a good runner. ---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Jul 26, 2013)

Managed to get a bit more work done on the engine. Decided to take a different approach on the bearing caps.



Paul.


----------



## Cogsy (Jul 26, 2013)

Looking good so far. Wish I was that far along with mine.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 26, 2013)

Don't worry Cogsy, you have your flywheels done, I haven't started to think about them yet.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jul 26, 2013)

Artistic license is encouraged. It looks great!!!---Brian


----------



## Canman (Jul 26, 2013)

That's some really neat work there. Your flying along. Welcome to the build by the way. 

James


----------



## Swifty (Jul 26, 2013)

Cogsy and Canman, don't get put off if I seem to be romping ahead, I don't have a lot of time to work on it, but when I do I can move fairly fast. After all I did work as a toolmaker for over 35 years.

When I'm working on one part, I'm already thinking how I will do the next one so I can go into that setup straight away.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 26, 2013)

Been thinking lately about what I am going to use for the flywheels, didn't have any  large enough solid bar or plate, then there it was staring me in the face. I have this large piece of hollow bronze bar that has been sitting around for years, so why not use that. I plan to use a steel centre piece and shrink the outer rim on. The next problem was that the bar is 4 1/2" OD x 2" ID, the only metal saw I have is a hand hacksaw, so decided to part it off in the lathe nearly all the way through and hand hacksaw the remainder. 
My parting tool would easily part off all the way, but did not relish the thought of pieces flying all over the shop. So I set it up in the 4 jaw and used a block against the tailstock end to make sure it will hold there, set the speed at 70 RPM and went to work. Once I had a full cut going, I just held a steady pressure on the handwheel and one foot on the brake lever just in case. Stopped short of the bore, as it wasn't running true and I didn't want to break partly through, then hacksawed the rest.





And now I have 2 blanks for the flywheel.





Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jul 27, 2013)

Those flywheels will be real beauties with a steel or aluminum center.--Brian


----------



## Swifty (Jul 27, 2013)

Machined up the flywheel outer rims this morning, shame that I can't do anything with the bronze swarf left over. Off tomorrow to get some material for the inner part of the flywheel and also some 10mm dia. rod for the axle.





Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 28, 2013)

Decided to do a bit more on the flywheels, I was prompted to do this by my wife saying she was going to put the oven on tonight for dinner, so there was I thinking the oven would be a good way to heat up the bronze for a shrink fit on the inner. I had a piece of hot rolled mild steel that I wasn't really keen on using as it can be a pain sometimes to machine and especially to part off, but despite this I got busy turning up the two inners. 

Turned out not too bad to machine, but a pain to part off. I had to part off from the 51mm OD to the 10mmID, doesn't seem much, just 20.5mm depth of cut. Well all my fears were realised, it was a pain to part off, chattered like crazy, all sorts of weird noises, and I can't recall seeing a HSS parting tool flex so much without breaking. 

Despite all this, the parts came out fine. I made them about 0.010mm interference fit in the bores of the bronze. Once the bronze had been in the oven for about 30 min, I grabbed each piece with the oven mitt, carried it to the garage and placed it over the centre pieces, they slipped on fine. Just have to give them a bit of a polish to remove the discolouration from heating up.





Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jul 28, 2013)

Nice work. I have been advised to try that same type of shrink fit on the two part flywheels I make, but I've always been afraid to try it. I always default to a sliding fit and green Loctite.---Brian


----------



## Path (Jul 28, 2013)

Swifty said:


> .....
> 
> Despite all this, the parts came out fine.
> 
> ...




Now that is an understatement if I have ever heard of one ...
those came absolutely beautiful! Thm:

Thanks for posting your progress .. following closely.

Pat H.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 28, 2013)

The bores on the bronze probably expanded about 0.10mm, I had no trouble dropping the rims onto the hubs. As there is no force at all on the rims I only allowed 0.010mm interference. Had tried shrink fitting years ago, but probably allowed too much for interference as the rings grabbed as soon as they were part way on. Ended up having to machine the part off and starting again.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 29, 2013)

Hi Pat, glad to have you along following my progress. I checked out your website and your larger lathe and mill are around the size I have as well.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 29, 2013)

Not a lot done today, picked up some silver steel to use for the axle, 75min round trip. Drilled the holes in the flywheels, still needs deburing and cleaning up. 

14 month old grandson over tomorrow, so not much work on the engine then either.








Paul.


----------



## gus (Jul 29, 2013)

Hi Swifty,
Gus is watching every move and every step to prep ahead in case he falls to temptation to build this new engine.Will be months away.Will print and study the plans before I plunge into unfamiliar waters.
As usual I take a break for two three months admiring my just done DIY engine. Will be making the simpler no brainer
stuffs like tools and odds&ends. Come this weekend will be fishing in Southern Thailand.
Still cannot believe I got Webbie running two hours ago,even though engine seems to run but firing seems not smooth spinning. Guess somewhere I goofed again. Will ungoof the goof.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 29, 2013)

Hi Gus, don't leave it too long between engines, what's life without challenges. You sure do get around with your fishing.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Jul 29, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Gus, don't leave it too long between engines, what's life without challenges. You sure do get around with your fishing.
> 
> Paul.



Hi Paul,

You are right. Just taking a break in South Thailand.Koh Samui. 
I heard about the beaches with gorgeous beauties. Will try very hard not going
to the nudist beaches.:hDe::hDe::hDe:


----------



## Swifty (Jul 29, 2013)

Hi Gus, nudist beaches!!! So your not going with your wife then?

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Jul 30, 2013)

Well, despite having to keep my grandson amused all day, I managed to turn a couple of bits during his nap time. Here we have the crankshaft and spacers, just have to be drilled.





Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jul 30, 2013)

Looks very good Paul.---Brian


----------



## gus (Jul 31, 2013)

Hi Paul,

Will wait for Brian to make PDF prints available. Then decide to plunge in.

 I admire your Tool & Die making experience. Though

I did Trade School for two years,skill was very basis. My instructors did advised it will take years of trade practice to be very competent. 
Wasn't until 2004 when plugged enough courage to jump in and buy lathe & mill & bench drill and this was after many years of buying/reading occasional copies of Model Engineer's Magazine whenever I dropped by Oz. Wasn't until 2010 when I joined HMEM and from here skills improved with advice,guidance and encouragement from forum members.  Webbie was a good example though Firefly engine was show piece that refused to run. Will first rework this very unforgiving engine.

Thanks for the support,advice and encouragement.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 1, 2013)

Not much work being done the last couple of days, my mother was getting her carpets cleaned yesterday, so I was over there most of the day.  Today an ex employee called in to see me and we chatted for a few hours, so lost machining time.

Managed to finish the assembly of the flywheels, crankshaft and axles. I might use Luc's idea of making the cylinder from steel with a finned aluminium sleeve shrunk on, and then make the piston from cast iron.





Rear view.





Gus, I failed nearly every subject in High School except for woodwork, metalwork and mechanical drawing, managing to top every class in these subjects. I finally found my calling when I started my apprenticeship at a toolmakers, managed to come out top of the class each year at trade school. I really enjoyed the work, and it showed as my skills increased. I finally found out what trigonometry was all about, and that was the days before pocket calculators. I still find working in metal very rewarding.

Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 1, 2013)

Hi Paul really looks goodThm:Thm:


----------



## Swifty (Aug 1, 2013)

Nothing much on TV this evening, so left the wife watching Big Brother, and off to the workshop for me. Scrounged around and found some 4140 that I can use for the cylinder, and some aluminium for the finned sleeve.

Parted off a length of the 4140, drilled it 13mm, then 19mm and set up a boring bar to machine the bore out. The outside of the material is still rough, I plan to bore to size and then turn up a mandrel and finish the outside. Because I'm converting some of this engine to metric sizes I decided to make the bore 20.00mm finished size. 4140 sure machines nicely, bored it out leaving 0.03mm for honing, checked each end with the telescopic gauge and it is perfectly parallel, lathes working well.

Next, I parted off some 50mm aluminium bar, drilled it 13mm, then 25.4mm. Stopped work on this for the moment, I will finish the bore once I have turned the outside of the cylinder, then shrink it on the cylinder and use the mandrel again to finish the sleeve off.

Will be busy with other things tomorrow, besides being our 38th. wedding anniversary, might be asking a bit much to hide out in the workshop, so will probably not get any work done.





Luc, I'm not sure at the moment which way I will go with the ignition.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 1, 2013)

Very impressive work. I am so happy to see someone going ahead with the air cooled version.---Brian


----------



## jwcnc1911 (Aug 1, 2013)

Nice Swifty!  I'm looking forward to seeing the air cooled version.


----------



## gus (Aug 1, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Very impressive work. I am so happy to see someone going ahead with the air cooled version.---Brian



Hi Brian,

Gus will go water-cooled. Seen hopper cooled work horse engines operating
in Taiwanese Rice Fields. Quite a sight,when water boiled over or engine take a break so did the farmer. Seen these engines powering small trucks in China. Though a bit slow.

Will continue following your thread and Paul's too.

Come tomorrow will in South Thailand enjoying the "Smells like hell,taste like heaven" fruits. Will sneak in a decent shot. Hope Gus won't get banned.

Kubota makes Hopper Cooled Engines in Thailand. 

If WiFi is available will follow your threads.


----------



## gus (Aug 1, 2013)

Hi Paul,

Plan to cut DIY bevel gears too. But will "monkey see,monkey do''. Please advise Metric Gear Module No. to buy gear cutter in advance.
Will be  fun .Gus will goofed till he gets it right. May cut gears in advance. Will read up Japanese KG Gear Cataloque.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 2, 2013)

Hi Gus, the only set of gear cutters that I have are mod 1. I will check if that size will be OK for the bevel gears, although I intend to cut the spur gears with them. If you are going to use module gears, you will have to alter the centre distance of the pivot hole for the larger spur gear that is in the side plate.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 2, 2013)

Engine frame and flywheel assembly looks great.


----------



## gus (Aug 2, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Gus, the only set of gear cutters that I have are mod 1. I will check if that size will be OK for the bevel gears, although I intend to cut the spur gears with them. If you are going to use module gears, you will have to alter the centre distance of the pivot hole for the larger spur gear that is in the side plate.
> 
> Paul.



Hi Paul,

Thanks for the tip. May go for "bought out" gears similar to Brain's.
May not be wise to veer off from prints with the sensitive governor drive and the hit & miss device. Been view quite a few YouTube posts on same engines.

Have a hunch,I could buy off the shelf new HT Ignition Coils in Thailand since they do not scrap ten/twenty year old cars.Just worried the existing dinosaur coil may kaput. Webbie has taught me a great deal with her unforgiving temperament.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 3, 2013)

Managed to get a bit more done, despite several interruptions. Purchased a wheel cylinder hone this morning and used it straight away, I'm very happy with the results on the steel cylinder. Next thing was to make a mandrel so I could turn the outside of the cylinder sleeve.

Here's a picture of the mandrel, cylinder sleeve and hone.




Next job was to bore out the aluminium that is going to be shrunk onto the steel sleeve, left 0.025mm interference.

Here's a picture of the cylinder and sleeve before fitting together. Sorry about the picture being a bit blurry.





The aluminium is in the oven now heating up, so hopefully next post you will see them as one unit.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 3, 2013)

Well guys, here we are a short time later, the cylinder and the aluminium sleeve are one unit now. The sleeve expanded enough to fall on the cylinder easily. I mounted the cylinder unit on the mandrel that I made earlier and machined the outside and steps on the end. Next, I set up the grooving tool that I made a couple of days ago and cut all the grooves. I'm happy with the result 

Here's a photo just after I slipped the sleeve on.




This photo is the cylinder unit mounted on the mandrel ready to be machined.




Finished cylinder.




Cylinder loosely fitted to the engine.




Paul.


----------



## gabby (Aug 3, 2013)

Hi ya Paul, You are coming on great with this one, I like the use of the heat/shrink process I must try it myself someday'
Cheers
Graham


----------



## Swifty (Aug 3, 2013)

Hi Graham, I think that the secret to shrink fits is to heat the item up in the oven, this provides a more even heat than using a torch.

Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 3, 2013)

awesome work Paul looks real good:bow::bow:


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 3, 2013)

Paul--That is truly a beautiful thing. It looks really great assembled.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 3, 2013)

Thanks Luc and Brian. You have done such a great job designing it Brian, that I want to do it justice by doing my best on my build. Sorting out a bit of material tonight for some of the smaller items, will have to go and pick up the small 1/4" OD bearing when I get a chance, just checked router catalogue for part number.

Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 3, 2013)

Swifty said:


> have to go and pick up the small 1/4" OD bearing when I get a chance, just checked router catalogue for part number.


 

Paul those bearing are from Blue Tornado bit. Here is a picture with the number. BTW I still found some cast chip in my underwear this morningRof}Rof}
cast dust is like plaster dust


----------



## Path (Aug 3, 2013)

Paul ..

Engine really looks good ... thanks for posting.

Pat H


----------



## Swifty (Aug 3, 2013)

Hi Luc, those bearings are a standard item for a local router bit manufacturer nearby, will pick up one when I am in that area on Tuesday.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 5, 2013)

Been doing a little work on the engine, started on the con rod. Mounted a plate on the mill and drilled holes where required, reamed the small end and bored out the big end for the bearing.




Using dowel pins and a parallel, I lined up the sides of the con rod at the angle required and milled the sides.




Next, I spent a bit of time making an adaptor plate for my rotary table so that I can mill the outside radius on each end.




And here we have a partly completed con rod, just have to finish milling the centre section to size, and reduce the thickness of the small end.




Also managed to machine the Push Rod Guide, here it is screwed onto the side.




Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 5, 2013)

Paul'
              Looks good, love your flywheel and the restThm:


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 5, 2013)

Swifty--Good stuff!!! It is really coming together for you. You must be almost ready to start the valves and cages.---Brian.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 5, 2013)

Hi Brian, doing the big pieces first allowed me to assemble something quickly. All the smaller pieces wil take a bit of time, but I'm looking forward to making them.

Paul.


----------



## Cogsy (Aug 5, 2013)

Looking great Paul. I'm going to have to spend a fair amount of time with files and emery paper before I can post a picture of my conrod looking even a quarter that good.


----------



## gus (Aug 6, 2013)

Hi Paul,
This is a "must build engine" for Gus. Been following your thread daily. Just cannot imagine I can get very good WiFi connection here.

The beaches on the main island is great but water not pristine.
Went to the outlying islands, Same.
Great Thai food. and sea food the best.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 7, 2013)

Hi Gus, not a lot being done on the engine the last couple of days, although I did manage to finish the conrod this morning.
Hope you are enjoying your holiday in Thailand, never been there myself but I sure do like going to the local Thai restaurants.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 7, 2013)

Paul--This is just a drop in to say Hi and offer up a word of encouragement. I am currently "breaking new ground" with my CDI ignition that I have purchased. ( I don't believe that my engine requires a CDI to run it, but I have always wanted to try one.) Cheers mate, keep up the good work. I will probably repeat this message to all the others who are building the Rupnow engine.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 7, 2013)

Managed to get a bit more work done, made the piston from some cast iron bar, dust seems to get into every pore in your skin. Also made a lap so I could lap the cylinder, it came out well. Once I had the piston finished I mounted it onto the con rod and lapped the piston into the cylinder, took about 10 minutes work and I ended up with a very good fit. The piston slides easily, but if I hold my hand over the end of the cylinder, the compression is excellent, even better when I put the "O" ring on.

Might look at cutting some gears next, I just about have all the larger components finished, so will start on the smaller ones now.

Here is the finished piston / rod assembly.




And here is the piston / con rod / cylinder assembled.




Paul.


----------



## ELM6061 (Aug 8, 2013)

G;day Swifty and all following the build. Been a while since I have been on and Paul has been telling me of his build. Pretty darn impressive Paul and look forward to watching your progress.
Got to watch Paul on the dials of my own lathe (helping sort me out), and let me tell you he is a pleasure to watch. Cheers again for all your help mate. Got the last of the rods finished tonight, welder next and never know, I may see this shed up yet.

Eddie


----------



## Swifty (Aug 8, 2013)

It was a pleasure to help you out Eddie, got to get that shed up so you have a permanent home for your machines.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 8, 2013)

I really like the look of that air cooled cylinder.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 8, 2013)

Everything going well so far Brian, your design has made it very easy. You never know, I might eventually make a changeover cylinder with water cooling, but I better not get too far ahead of myself as I have to get this one finished. Although I can't devote a lot of time to the build, I'm happy with the 2 weeks work that I have managed to get done.

Paul.


----------



## bronson (Aug 8, 2013)

Hi i am just catching up on some threads haven't been on in a while. This build is looking great, nice clean can't wait to see a video of it running. That Brian sure can design some engines. Bronson.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 8, 2013)

Hi bronson, now video might be a real challenge. Don't own a video camera, but one of my digital camera's has a video function, might have to give that a go, ipad has video but its not sharp enough.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 9, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Those flywheels will be real beauties with a steel or aluminum center.--Brian



Hi Swifty,

Your parting skill is very good. Parting of such big diameter of hollow bronze bar sends shivers to my spine.Please advise tool rake and cutting speed etc.

Gus plan to cheat a wee bitty,buy cut disc from local suppliers .My Sakai Lathe is too small to handle  this parting assignement.

Right now planning murderous tactics to build Brian's Hit & Miss Engine.

Heading home today after all the cheap and fresh seafood.


----------



## gus (Aug 9, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Everything going well so far Brian, your design has made it very easy. You never know, I might eventually make a changeover cylinder with water cooling, but I better not get too far ahead of myself as I have to get this one finished. Although I can't devote a lot of time to the build, I'm happy with the 2 weeks work that I have managed to get done.
> 
> Paul.




Hi Paul,

That is a plenty of work done in two weeks. 14 days x 8 hours!!!!

Will be hard for Gus to beat.


.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 9, 2013)

Hi Gus,
I wish I could devote 14 days x 8 hours to it, I can just slip in 1 to 2 hours here and there when I can. We had grandson stay with us 2 days this week and that takes up all our time keeping an eye on him, both my wife and I are exhausted by the time he goes home.
I haven't mentioned it here before, but every second day is mostly taken up with me being on dialysis, sure puts a dent in my shop time. Have started gear cutting this morning.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 9, 2013)

Made a start on the spur gears this morning, turned the blanks, set up the dividing head and cut the first one already. I'm going to machine the cam after cutting the large gear.





Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 9, 2013)

gus said:


> Hi Swifty,
> 
> Your parting skill is very good. Parting of such big diameter of hollow bronze bar sends shivers to my spine.Please advise tool rake and cutting speed etc.



Hi Gus, I actually used an inserted carbide tip parting tool, 4mm wide to part off the bronze. Cant recall the speed, but it probably was only around 70 - 100 RPM

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 11, 2013)

Finished cutting the smaller gear today, I have left a shoulder on the smaller gear, as I'm not sure yet how I will fasten it to the shaft. I didn't have a shoulder screw the right size to attach the larger gear, so I turned up a spigot that it will run on, held by an M5 screw.

Here is a picture of the two gears and spigot.





Next, I set up my rotary table to machine the cam on the large gear.





Here is the completed gear / cam.





And one more picture of the gears mounted on the engine.





Now I have to decide what to tackle next.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 11, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Gus,
> I wish I could devote 14 days x 8 hours to it, I can just slip in 1 to 2 hours here and there when I can. We had grandson stay with us 2 days this week and that takes up all our time keeping an eye on him, both my wife and I are exhausted by the time he goes home.
> I haven't mentioned it here before, but every second day is mostly taken up with me being on dialysis, sure puts a dent in my shop time. Have started gear cutting this morning.
> 
> Paul.




Hi Paul,
The gear looks good. Will save plenty of $$$$.

The aluminium pinion I cut for Webbie is still OK with no wear yet. 
Been reading Ivan Law's book ------Gear and Gear Cutting. Cutting conical gear will be another challenge and not as straight forward as spur gears.But
wil give a good try.Lots more research and reading and trial cuts.
I have a sample cone gear from KG Gears,Japan. Will be monkey monkey do.

Take care.
P.S. Was raining cats and dogs last nite and not hopeful will be good fishing day. Hauled up a 5 pounder Cod Grouper and a few smaller Red Snappers. The "Fish Attracting Device'' aka FAD works.
Will be wreck fishing Aug 15.Another challenge to bring up monster Groupers
of 5-------50 pounder.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 11, 2013)

Looks good Paul
I'm anxious to go back on mine , what set up do you have on your rotary able?? a bolt on plate??

cheers


----------



## Swifty (Aug 11, 2013)

gus said:


> Hi Paul,
> The aluminium pinion I cut for Webbie is still OK with no wear yet.
> Been reading Ivan Law's book ------Gear and Gear Cutting. Cutting conical gear will be another challenge and not as straight forward as spur gears.But
> wil give a good try.Lots more research and reading and trial cuts.
> I have a sample cone gear from KG Gears,Japan. Will be monkey monkey do



Hi Gus, you may have trouble cutting mitre / bevel gears with your homemade indexer, you have to be able to index 1/4 of a tooth on each side of the main cut. You can see what I mean in my article about cutting mitre gears. I don't have any shop bought mitre gears to compare with, but they are made by a slightly different method. What we can cut is the nearest approximation that we can get, and it works well.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 11, 2013)

Hi Luc, yes I use a bolt on plate on my rotary table. I previously had a 3 jaw chuck mounted on the plate, and just clamped the lot on my mill. I have since taken the chuck off the plate and mount the chuck on my rotary table when I need it. 
I was needing a method to hold other parts on the rotary table, so decided to use the discarded plate.




I indicated the centre hole in the rotary table and mounted the plate on using 10mm spacers between the plate and table. As the plate already had a large hole in the centre, I then bored the hole out to a nominal size, in this case 27mm. I also added some 8mm tapped holes for clamps. When I need a spigot in the centre, I turn some aluminium down to 27mm to suit the hole, then turn on the required spigot. This method has worked out well as I can have any type of interchangeable spigot that I need. 




When I need to have a screw in the centre of the spigot, I drill a clearance hole in the spigot and use a steel bar with a tapped hole, inserted in the gap between the plate and table.




This photo shows the gap between the plate and table.




Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 11, 2013)

thanks very interesting


----------



## gus (Aug 11, 2013)

Hi Paul,
The both gears look good,Swiss Quality. Both gears are meshed with the usual clearance. :bow:
My Webbie gear mesh had a bigger gap than required.:hDe:
Today is my first day of work after a week's holiday. Ha Ha ha.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Aug 11, 2013)

Paul,
Nice work on the gears, they look good.  Having just acquired this skill I can appreciate what goes into making a good set.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Swifty (Aug 12, 2013)

Hi Gus, been thinking about you cutting the mitre gears on your indexer. If you wanted to cut 20 tooth gears, you could use an 80 tooth master spur gear, this will allow you to do a main cut every 4 teeth and then index 1 tooth either side to get your 1/4 of a turn. Probably a bit hard to grasp initially, but I think that it will work.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 12, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Gus, been thinking about you cutting the mitre gears on your indexer. If you wanted to cut 20 tooth gears, you could use an 80 tooth master spur gear, this will allow you to do a main cut every 4 teeth and then index 1 tooth either side to get your 1/4 of a turn. Probably a bit hard to grasp initially, but I think that it will work.
> 
> Paul.



Hi Paul,

I have a 80t gear to serve divider plate. Will start from here using Ivan Law's book.Meanwhile I have cold feet. Fear of the unknown. 

I am still stuck with Webbie and she is teaching me how to fine tune her for the instantaneous/responsive Vroom Vroom.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 12, 2013)

A little bit more done today, managed to finish the exhaust valve rocker arm and push rod.





Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 13, 2013)

Paul---Great stuff---All those parts look very familiar.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 15, 2013)

Still making a few parts when I have the chance, I have made the valve inserts, rocker arm holder and exhaust pipe. I've been thinking about making the valves out of 2 pieces, will give it a try.








Paul.


----------



## manop (Aug 15, 2013)

This engine is going to be beautiful,


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 15, 2013)

That looks really sweet. You can make the valves from two pieces, but you really don't have to. If you have a look at the post in my forum thread about turning the valves there is an excellent tip there on how to keep the valve stem from deflecting when it is being machined.----I am really thrilled that you are proceeding with this build.-Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 15, 2013)

Brian, I recall the posting about turning the valve stems down in steps, but decided that if I used 1/8" drill rod with larger pieces soldered on it might work out better. I have a nice fit between the reamed hole and the drill rod, so off to a good start already. Hopefully my ignition and spark plug will arrive next week, as I want to get it running before starting on the governor.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 15, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Brian, I recall the posting about turning the valve stems down in steps, but decided that if I used 1/8" drill rod with larger pieces soldered on it might work out better. I have a nice fit between the reamed hole and the drill rod, so off to a good start already. Hopefully my ignition and spark plug will arrive next week, as I want to get it running before starting on the governor.
> 
> Paul.


 
Swifty--Just be aware that drill rod generally comes in at .0005 over nominal and won't fit thru a nominal reamed hole. Cold rolled comes in .0005 undersize, and is consequently a "perfect" sliding fit in a nominal reamed hole. (Sorry about that!!--I didn't have enough zero's.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 15, 2013)

Brian, drill rod, or what we call silver steel over here, is spot on on size. I measured the valve stems as best I could and they are 0.12525". I used a new 1/8" reamer in the holes and the rod slides in nicely.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 15, 2013)

Okay Paul---I'm not sure why the difference. It may just be a North American thing.


----------



## gus (Aug 15, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Brian, drill rod, or what we call silver steel over here, is spot on on size. I measured the valve stems as best I could and they are 0.12525". I used a new 1/8" reamer in the holes and the rod slides in nicely.
> 
> Paul.



Hi Paul,
Hard to buy Silver Steel here in Singapore. Next trip to HongKong,will buy a two of each from 3 mm------------10mm to stock up and store in dry location to minmise rust. Balcony m/shop is a rusty place.

The Grade 5 bolts I picked up from fastener store is good to make tappet valves. Used same for Webbie.

Still following your threads to prep up making this engine. Alas. There are so many other engines distracting me.

Just bought WinZip---Mac to d/l Brian's engine prints. 


Just wondering the possibility of getting Tin Falcon to organise a get together
at a model engine trade show next year. It's Time we meet up with Tin,Brian & Paul & others to talk engines.

Take Care.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 15, 2013)

Gus--I like that idea!!----Paul--Are you going to make the small bore carburetor I posted the design for?---And Oh yes--I goofed with the sizing on drill rod and cold rolled rod. I didn't have enough zero's. I have corrected my original post----Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 15, 2013)

Brian, yes I will make your latest carburettor, the small bore one. Seeing that it works for you, that's good enough for me.

Picked up some 1/8" "E" rings this morning, I plan to use them on the valve stems instead of a pin.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 16, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Swifty--Great Progress!!! I am pleased to see another build of this neat engine. I hope you have fun, and come up with a good runner. ---Brian



Hi Brian and Paul,
Drawings for base,side plates,o/head,etc printed and now diligently studied to make a B.O.M. to buy material. Decided to jump in,sink,drown or swim & survive.There are some skills I lacked and some to refine.Press fit will be tough on Gus. Can try. Gung Ho.:hDe::hDe:
In about a month or two ,should have some progress to show. Alas!!! My poor Sakai Lathe and mill will be required to perform beyond it's limits.
Plenty of jigs and fixtures to make. I have no DROs.Will be fun.

Would prefer to buy the conical gears to save all the hassle.

Gus will need expert advice and help from all my Gurus.Material should come in by latest next week. Plan to use cast iron for the F/wheels.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 16, 2013)

Glad that you have decided to jump in Gus, everyone needs challenges to make life interesting. In order to gain skills you need to get out of your comfort zone and try something a bit more advanced. You have already built an IC engine, so you are ahead of me there. 

Just take things slowly and don't rush, this is how mistakes are made. However if you do make a mistake, learn something from it and move on. Before you machine something, go through the steps in your mind before starting, and then go for it. If you are going to use metric size silver steel, just make sure that you change the drawings where necessary, I used 10mm instead of 3/8" for the main axle and therefor had to change hole sizes.

Good luck with your build.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 16, 2013)

Made my valves this morning, I used 1/8" silver steel with a larger piece soldered on for the head. Before I soldered the parts together I machined a groove to take the "E" clips that I am using to hold the assemblies together, the groove is only 0.020" wide. I only need 2 E clips, but purchased 12 to allow for those that disappear into no man's land.

Here is a photo of the parts after soldering.




Machined the valves without any problems, it certainly helped leaving some shaft protruding from the head end as it enabled me to clean up the longer part of the valve.

Here are the valves with the E rings attached.




And some spring retainers.




Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 17, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Glad that you have decided to jump in Gus, everyone needs challenges to make life interesting. In order to gain skills you need to get out of your comfort zone and try something a bit more advanced. You have already built an IC engine, so you are ahead of me there.
> 
> Just take things slowly and don't rush, this is how mistakes are made. However if you do make a mistake, learn something from it and move on. Before you machine something, go through the steps in your mind before starting, and then go for it. If you are going to use metric size silver steel, just make sure that you change the drawings where necessary, I used 10mm instead of 3/8" for the main axle and therefor had to change hole sizes.
> 
> ...




Hi Paul,

Thanks for the kind advice. I normally would make up a W.I .(work instructions,step by step. When reducing OD I would go for a hit list to log every cut depth and OD to give me a fair idea of how much I have gone and how more to trim off.Been hitting the required diameter spot on. A cutter sharpening and hone for the last cut. Since 2010 my turning/drilling/reaming/honing/milling skills have improved vastly. As you said its true,to make further skill improvement,we must take up challenges. Been studying the prints carefully before jumping in . Went into the FireFly IC Engine w/o total grasp of requirement. Made a big mess. There after this, Gus got smart. Do it right the first time and every time. 
Only now , did I realised my "meisters" were seen as very fussy when they were very meticulous in prepping and finishing the job.
Friend of mine did his apprenticeship in Tool & Die" at GM,South Africa. He nearly gave up after three months with the strict ,no nonsense Dutch/German/British Meisters.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 17, 2013)

I was fortunate Gus, that we had a lot of German toolmakers when I was doing my apprenticeship. I was taught well, made my first press tool, to blank a component, 6 months into my apprenticeship.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 17, 2013)

Swifty--Great progress. You are now far out ahead of the pack. I think my one Englishman has stalled out due to lack of equipment, and the other one is still finishing another engine which he is posting on this forum. Luc the Canadian has been pulled off his build with some other "real" work. I've lost track of my other two Australians at the moment, and the chap in California doesn't appear to have started his build. Gus, we are watching for you to start your build.----Brian


----------



## gus (Aug 18, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Swifty--Great progress. You are now far out ahead of the pack. I think my one Englishman has stalled out due to lack of equipment, and the other one is still finishing another engine which he is posting on this forum. Luc the Canadian has been pulled off his build with some other "real" work. I've lost track of my other two Australians at the moment, and the chap in California doesn't appear to have started his build. Gus, we are watching for you to start your build.----Brian



Hi Brian,

OK .Guru. Now that the water is warmer, I am jumping in. Incidently,I bought 1/2"  and 3/8" Silver Steel while holidaying in HongKong. Shall I say,unknowingly,I was already prepped in March.  Will bid temporary farewell to Webbie after cleanup. Will buy bearings today.
After slowly and carefully studying your prints,I have better grasp.
Also been viewing your thread.

No worries. Will maintain my good record as per machining Webbie-----not a single scrapped piece to the scrap bin.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 18, 2013)

Back again with the next piece, I have now made the small bore carburettor, with a few mods. I made the throttle screw 3mm and I also extended the tail that screws into the head by another 5mm, this was to get a bit more clearance between the fuel inlet and the frame side. The needle seats nicely into the fuel inlet hole, and when I blow into the fuel inlet all air is cut off with slight pressure from the screw.

Once soldered together, I held the carburettor by the fuel inlet and drilled the 0.80mm hole through into the inlet tube, then without removing it, drilled and tapped M3 to suit the screw, by doing it this way it gave me the best chance of the holes being in line.





Will make the one way valve for the fuel next.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 18, 2013)

And here we have the fuel check valve.





And assembled onto the carburettor.





Will now probably lap the valves in and play around with the springs.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 19, 2013)

Hi Guy's, I played around with the video function on my small compact camera, the resolution isn't great, but this is a test to see if I can post it here. I will probably borrow my son's video camera for future posts.





Paul.


----------



## Cogsy (Aug 19, 2013)

That's a beautiful looking piece of work Paul. Looking forward to hearing it run.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 19, 2013)

Thanks for that Cogsy, that was a quick reply. I must admit that the video is a bit low resolution, and when I viewed it on this site, it took a while to buffer.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 19, 2013)

Hi Paul,
This great work and very fast work. Were you working overtime!!!! 
Like you ,plan to run my engine w/o governor which will be made later. Plan to use CDI too.
Will take a month or two. After building Webbie,the Rupnow Engine will be  a much faster build.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 19, 2013)

I am very impressed! The engine looks fantastic!!---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 19, 2013)

Thanks Brian, I'm waiting anxiously waiting for the ignition to arrive so I can fit it. One minor problem at the moment is with the cam that pushes the roller, when the cam touches the roller it wants to push the bar down instead of along. I think that it's because the tail of the bar sticks out a fair bit without support. Will work on solving that soon enough.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 19, 2013)

Swifty--I noticed that on mine also, although it didn't seen to impair the way the engine performs. I used a 3/16" square steel rod as my lifter rod. My thoughts were that if it became an issue I would drill a 3/16" or 1/8" hole directly opposite the direction in which the rod wants to deflect and Loctite in a round brass rod to give additional support.


----------



## jwcnc1911 (Aug 19, 2013)

That head looks like an awful large chunk... wonder if it needs some cooling fins or something?


----------



## Lawijt (Aug 19, 2013)

Not so sharp , but already a great video Paul. The engine looks great & now waiting for a new video with a running engine.
But before some tekst & picsfrom the ignition system.

Barry


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 19, 2013)

jwcnc1911 said:


> That head looks like an awful large chunk... wonder if it needs some cooling fins or something?


 
On a hit and miss engine, heat is created when the engine fires. Then during the next 4 to 6 cycles of the engine in "miss " mode where it is not firing, ambient temperature air is sucked in and out through both the intake and exhaust valve, flushing out any residual heat from the cylinder and cooling the surrounding metal. Bottom line is---No, the head doesn't need fins.


----------



## ELM6061 (Aug 20, 2013)

Been a while since I checked in Paul, and like always, parts are flying off the production line.
Looking good and while not really sharp, the video was not that bad, certainly gave us all  good look at the progress so far.

Looking forward to hearing it fire up mate.

Eddei


----------



## Swifty (Aug 20, 2013)

Just checked my USPS shipment of my CDI, it arrived in Australia yesterday, so will have to keep an eye out for any delivery vans. My workshop has a window facing he street, will probably spend more time looking out the window than working.

Paul.


----------



## scruffy (Aug 20, 2013)

That's beautiful Swifty, Im about to start the E-Z engine once my new chuck comes in. I hope to be able to make some nice looking parts


----------



## Swifty (Aug 20, 2013)

Hi Scruffy, thanks for your comments. I'm sure that you will enjoy your journey into engine making, the EZ engine looks like a great one to start with. As you slowly build up your skills you will be able to move on and tackle more involved engines. Good luck with your build.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 20, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Just checked my USPS shipment of my CDI, it arrived in Australia yesterday, so will have to keep an eye out for any delivery vans. My workshop has a window facing he street, will probably spend more time looking out the window than working.
> 
> Paul.




Hi Paul,

Soon the CDI will be on to your hot little hands.

Mine came in when I was away in Thailand.

Tomorrow will be a "Boring" day. Hope I can bore the bearing holes to fit.
The recess will be hard to do and plus both side plates must align.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 21, 2013)

Woo Hoo!, the CDI and spark plugs have arrived. It's just like Christmas.woohoo1

I have started work already on the parts needed to hold the ignition, there's nothing holding me back now.





Paul.


----------



## Lawijt (Aug 21, 2013)

Looks great Paul. I hope you have succes with the assembling.

Barry


----------



## ELM6061 (Aug 23, 2013)

Exciting stuff Paul, though it is a few months until Christmas, I am not sure if you should be opening those little parcels, I guess without the gift wrap, it's ok.
Hope it all goes together and unlike the little twin IC you have been working on, this one works first go for you.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 23, 2013)

A little bit more whenever I have the chance, made the bracket for the Hall Sensor and the holder for the magnet. Better loctite the magnet in before I lose the marking on it showing the south pole. I had to make a few changes to Brian's drawing of the sensor bracket as I used larger bearings and therefore had a larger clearance hole in the side plate.








Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 23, 2013)

This has got me really excited.--The engine looks great. My internet has been out for 3 days, so I am just now catching up.--Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 23, 2013)

Just been reviewing Brian's postings about the CDI ignition, noticed that Brian's circuit came in a neat black box, but mine is all mounted on a circuit board with no covering. I did order mine without the batteries and battery charger, which is an option when ordering, charger would not suit our supply here and I have plenty of small battery chargers already. The circuit will be hidden in a base box eventually, so that will protect it.

I think that I'm ready to get to the point of no return, will epoxy the Hall sensor into place and loctite the magnet in. 

Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 23, 2013)

both last line will work about epoxy and Loctite


----------



## Swifty (Aug 24, 2013)

Latest update, we have spark!!! but only after I turned the Hall Sensor around 180 degrees, no spark initially, but then I remembered that the sensor only works on one side. I cobbled together a fuel tank and cranked the engine over with my battery drill, it fires and blows out smoke but won't run by itself yet. 
But I have a problem with the square bar that works the exhaust valve, Brian stated steel on the drawing but as I had some 1/4" square brass, I used that. However the bar has bent where the holes are for the governor latch extension.I will straighten it out, make the latch extension, and bolt it on. This should provide enough strength to stop it bending again. While I'm working on it, I will put a pin through the shaft to make it easier to turn over with the drill.








Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 25, 2013)

Swifty--I was concerned that might happen when I seen you using brass instead of steel for the pushrod. Probably if I had stayed with my first design where there was only a notch in the underside of the square bar and no holes, brass would have been okay. I think Luc is going to try and use the original design, so that will answer my question as to whether the first design would have worked or not. Thanks for posting, and good luck with the sparks.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 25, 2013)

Well, bending the bar back wasn't a bright idea, it broke. So will have to make one out of steel now. In the mean time, instead of a pin in the axle to start the engine with, I've made a "spiral clutch", don't know if that's the right name, but will take a picture when I'm in the garage next.

Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 25, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Well, bending the bar back wasn't a bright idea, it broke. So will have to make one out of steel now. In the mean time, instead of a pin in the axle to start the engine with, I've made a "spiral clutch", don't know if that's the right name, but will take a picture when I'm in the garage next.
> 
> Paul.


 
Paul I'll be using the original design but using a over center spring set
up it should work pretty well
Love your engine


----------



## ELM6061 (Aug 25, 2013)

G'day Paul, great news on the spark and puffs, not so good about the bent rod. At least it is a reasonably easy fix and will be interesting to see how Luc's turns out.
Back to the drawing board and work bench Swifty.
Eddie


----------



## Swifty (Aug 25, 2013)

I mentioned in my earlier post that I used 1/4" square brass, that should have read 3/16" , but I'm getting on top of it now, I'm making the new one out of gauge plate and beefing it up a bit. If it looks a bit out of place on the engine, I will replace it later.

 Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 26, 2013)

Paul---I'm on pins and needles over here on the other side of the world!!! It looks like your engine may be the second ever Rupnow Engine to come to life!!!---And the very first air cooled version!!!---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 26, 2013)

Hi Brian, well it's come to life in short spurts, my wife can verify this, as I was so excited I called her in to have a look. There are still a few problems with it, the timing seems to get out of sync easily. I think that this problem is caused be the axle moving in the flywheel, the press fit may not be tight enough so I will pull it apart and pin it, it seems that the inertia of the flywheel and my starting it with my battery drill may be the cause. 

The new exhaust valve pushrod is working well, when I have everything pinned, I will only have to concentrate on the fuel intake then.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 26, 2013)

Swifty--That's wonderful news!!! I had never press fitted a flywheel to a shaft before, and I ended up buying a .3735 reamer for the flywheel and using 3/8" drill rod that measured .3755 to give me a .002" interference fit. I had tried earlier to use 3/8" cold rolled that measured .3745 but it seemed like a very light press with only .0015 interference, and I was afraid it would slip. I used some Loctite as well, but with a .002" interference fit I think all of the Loctite gets scraped off anyways. Good luck with your engine. I will have my fingers crossed for you.---Brian.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 26, 2013)

Unfortunately today is grandson minding day, been out to the local mall to keep him occupied. He is now having his lunch and then nap time for him, so it's into the shop for me as soon as he's in bed. I have decided to try putting a grub screw between the shaft and flywheel, that should stop it from moving. Will post some pictures later today.

Paul.


----------



## Path (Aug 26, 2013)

Looking forward to your photos .
I will probably use 303 SS as I have lots of it from a previous build.

Pat H.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 27, 2013)

Well it's amazing what you can get done in an hour, I've pinned the shaft with a grub screw,




And here is my makeshift fuel tank with adjustable height.





And here is my spiral starter mechanism.





Now to put it all back together, stay tuned.

Paul


----------



## Swifty (Aug 27, 2013)

OK Brian, we can start handing out the cigars, we have a new offspring running.

I only used my pocket camera video, which is not very good, but I think that it's better than nothing. The clamp wasn't holding very well, so everything was shaking.

Pull up your chairs and turn the speakers on.





Paul.


----------



## Lawijt (Aug 27, 2013)

It runs really great Paul. congrats.

Barry


----------



## AussieJimG (Aug 27, 2013)

Congratulations Paul, it looks and sounds like an engine. And one you can be proud of.

Jim


----------



## metalmad (Aug 27, 2013)

Nice one Swifty 
Pete


----------



## Swifty (Aug 27, 2013)

Thanks a lot guys, now I will have to get moving on the governor before the engine self destructs.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Aug 27, 2013)

The sweetest music from a Hit & Miss Engine.Congrats!!!!! Paul.

Plan to put a key-pin to to ensure shaft and flywheel stay locked. We use this method to lock up overhung shafts for Ingersoll-Rand Small Air Compressors.

By this week end will see good progress on my engine but I am not rushing though I am now a wee bitty excited after viewing your beautiful engine running. After this I am wondering which engine would Brian come up with.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Aug 27, 2013)

nice job Thm:Thm:

Ill be there soon


----------



## Swifty (Aug 27, 2013)

Hi Gus, it certainly was a thrill for me to get the engine running, but still a bit of work to do yet. 

I think that Brian deserves a short break after the amount of work that he put in designing and building this engine, but from what I've gathered over the time I have been on this forum, Brian is probably already thinking about his next project.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 27, 2013)

Swifty--Congratulations!!! You have done a marvelous job there!!! Adding the hit and miss mechanism will not only slow the engine down, but will also allow the engine to run a lot cooler, as during the "miss cycles" it will be pumping room temperature air through the combustion chamber, cooling it down. I am very happy to see the engine come to life.---Brian


----------



## Cogsy (Aug 27, 2013)

Congrats Swifty! Looks and sounds sweet mate Thm:Thm:


----------



## Path (Aug 27, 2013)

Swifty,

Awesome!
woohoo1

Pat H.


----------



## Philjoe5 (Aug 27, 2013)

Nice work Swifty....a great running engineThm:Thm:Thm:

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## gus (Aug 27, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Unfortunately today is grandson minding day, been out to the local mall to keep him occupied. He is now having his lunch and then nap time for him, so it's into the shop for me as soon as he's in bed. I have decided to try putting a grub screw between the shaft and flywheel, that should stop it from moving. Will post some pictures later today.
> 
> Paul.



Hi Paul,
Gus will go for shrink fit plus your grub screw. Been watching and following your thread. Monkey See .Monkey Do. No worry .
Today will do the C.I. Cylinder. Time now 8am.Will take sweet time.
Will be calm and cool as I have only one C.I. Shaft left.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 27, 2013)

Hi Gus, just take your time and you will be right. Pinning with a grub screw took no time and its positive, I even added loctite to the screw. I added a shoulder to my small gear to allow for a grub screw instead of using a pin through the gear teeth, I will drill a detent in the axle to really lock it on, and one also for the disc holding the magnet. This will make them easily removable, but will always go back on in the right spot.

Paul.


----------



## ELM6061 (Aug 28, 2013)

I can see a drive and coffee coming up on the calendar. Nice work Paul, a sweet little runner and look forward to smelling some fumes.

On a side note;
Got all the frame uprights welded and have gone through two wire brushes on the drill, cleaning up the frame ready for some paint. Bit shaky yesterday and today, hopefully will fire the spray gun tomorrow. Also moved some plants, so you could say this little snail is picking up speed, has pulled it's head from the shell  HaHa.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 28, 2013)

Hi Eddie, might have to hold off on that visit for a short while as I've taken parts off to complete the governor. Hopefully won't be long before its running again.

Glad that your making progress on your shed, with the weather improving now, it's a bit easier to work outside.

Paul.


----------



## Lawijt (Aug 29, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> On a hit and miss engine, heat is created when the engine fires. Then during the next 4 to 6 cycles of the engine in "miss " mode where it is not firing, ambient temperature air is sucked in and out through both the intake and exhaust valve, flushing out any residual heat from the cylinder and cooling the surrounding metal. Bottom line is---No, the head doesn't need fins.


 
That is very interesting Brian. I think never about that. But the engine will still spark than? And what with the fuell it is sucking in?
That fuell is lost than?
But I find it great that the air sucking in & blowing out cool the engine.

Best regards

Barry


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 29, 2013)

Lawjit--There seems to be a few things you don't know about hit and miss engines. There is no cam or lifter for the intake valve. It is held in the closed position by a very light spring. When the piston moves from top dead center to bottom dead center, it creates a vacuum in the combustion chamber, and this vacuum "sucks" the intake valve open and "sucks" the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder. The intake is what is called an "atmospheric intake valve", because it is actually atmospheric pressure which opens it. When the engine reaches a high enough speed for the governor weights to fly into the "out" position from centrifugal force, the governor mechanism moves a lever into a position that prevents the exhaust valve from closing. Now--the exhaust valve can't close, but the engine is still revolving at a fast rate--but it can not suck the intake valve open, because with the exhaust valve held open no vacuum can be created. This is the "miss" part of a hit and miss engine, when it is coasting. There is still a spark every time the piston comes up to the top, but with no fuel to light, the spark does nothing. After a few revolutions, the engine begins to slow down. When it slows down "enough", the spring on the governor moves the governor into the "in" position, and this moves the lever, allowing the exhaust valve to close. Once the exhaust valve closes, and the engine coasts through one more cycle, it "sucks" in a fresh charge of air/fuel mixture, and the engine fires or "hits" again, starting the process all over again. This is one of the reasons that it is important to put an "anti flow-back" valve in the gas line feeding the carburetor. With the type of carburetor a hit and miss engine uses, the fuel tank/fuel level must always be lower than the carburetor to prevent flooding. Without an "anti flow-back" valve on the gas line, during the miss cycles the fuel can run out of the gas line back into the fuel tank. When this happens, and the engine wants to suck in a fresh charge of air/fuel mixture, if the fuel has all ran out of the gas line back into the tank, the engine may just slow down and come to a complete stop before it can get the fuel back up, through the gas line and carburetor into the combustion chamber.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Aug 29, 2013)

I mentioned in an earlier posting that I fastened the small spur gear with a grub screw instead of using a pin through the gear teeth. Of course, this is only applicable if you have a shoulder on the small gear. As I machined the gears myself, I left a shoulder on one end, but it was a very thin walled shoulder as the outside diameter was no larger than the bottom diameter of the tooth form. When I had the gear finished, I machined up a bush which I shrunk onto the existing shoulder, this allowed enough material to tap a hole and use a grub screw.





I'm now proceeding with the manufacture of the governor, I've finished the aluminium block that holds all the pieces, and I am using the mitre gears that I had made previously, they are slightly different in some sizes from bought gears, but I made allowances for this. 

For anyone that wants to know how I made the mitre gears, just click on the Articles button on the top banner, and this will take you to the tutorial.





Paul.


----------



## Lawijt (Aug 30, 2013)

Great work again Paul.

@ Brian. Thanks a lot for the explanation. Now I understand it all. I buy a economy engine from the engineers emporium.
So when putting it togheter I understand already how some thing work. I will make a revieuw from that.

Barry


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Aug 30, 2013)

Swifty--I like your solution to attaching the small gear better than mine. I will keep that method in mind for the next engine I make.---Brian


----------



## gus (Aug 30, 2013)

Hi Paul,

Eager Beaver and Eagle Eyes watching the meister. Will be cutting Cone gears too when I get the basic engine started and running.

Gussy.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 31, 2013)

I turned up a bronze bush that fits in the governor holder, but I made a slight modification by making it a shouldered bush, so that the stem post has a bearing surface where it contacts the body. Of course, I had to allow for the bush head thickness on the post. You can see the head of the bush in the photo.

And of course, I've turned the stem post as you can see. Next, I will have to finish milling the post. 





Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 31, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Swifty--I like your solution to attaching the small gear better than mine. I will keep that method in mind for the next engine I make.---Brian



I'm glad that you like that idea Brian, it allows you to try different positions for the gear before committing to a fixed position. I plan to drill a shallow indent in the shaft to take the grub screw once I'm happy with the exhaust valve timing.

Paul.


----------



## Gurus (Sep 3, 2013)

Looking good!


----------



## Swifty (Sep 4, 2013)

Thought that I better put in an update, I've been machining bits when I have a chance, not far from getting the governor working.





Just a couple of more bits to make, then I will get to work on a fuel tank.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 4, 2013)

Swifty--that looks really great. I found that on my engine, the rod which extends down thru the center of the stempost wants to rotate.--Which isn't a big problem, but it sets up a friction point where it bears against the lever. My lever was made from brass, and it actually drilled a hole half way through it!!! To make a save, I silver soldered a steel ball bearing into the hole, then ground the top of it flat to avoid any farther wear issues. It seems to have worked alright. I see your lever is made of steel, so you may not have the same problem.---Just put a bit of grease there before your start up.--Brian


----------



## Swifty (Sep 4, 2013)

Hi Brian, I recalled your problem with the lever, I plan to make a hardened silver steel pad to pin in that area if mine wears a lot.

Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Sep 4, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Brian, I recalled your problem with the lever, I plan to make a hardened silver steel pad to pin in that area if mine wears a lot.
> 
> Paul.


 
Brian and Paul---- even If not to active lately my Idea to solve this was to shorten the pushing pin to the proper length needed do disengage the push
rod    what do you think


----------



## Swifty (Sep 4, 2013)

Hi Luc, I will check out the pin length carefully when I set mine up.

Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Sep 4, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Luc, I will check out the pin length carefully when I set mine up.
> 
> Paul.


on mine the plan is to lift the ball to the max
engage the pushrod pin to lock it, leave a 30th clearance in between
I'll be using an over center spring on the detent to make sure it stays 
engage even if the ball or not touching it:hDe:


----------



## Swifty (Sep 8, 2013)

Still working away at the last pieces, the main problem at the moment is obtaining a spring that's suitable for the governor. The one I have is a bit too strong, even though I turned up some brass weights to try out. Can't get anything from the local hardware suppliers, so I will have to go to a spring maker and search through his stock.

I have started making a small fuel tank from some copper pipe, I would have liked a bigger diameter pipe but my next size up was too big. I don't know how the people who make copper boilers manage it, but my copper pipe sure sucks the heat away in a hurry when I try to silver solder the ends on. I suppose that I could have used lead solder, but have managed ok anyway.

I have also modified the head as per Brian's latest redesign.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 8, 2013)

Swifty--You may have missed it in my main post, but I found the 5/8" diameter brass balls to be too heavy, and had to swap them out for aluminum balls.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Sep 8, 2013)

Hi Brian, yes I saw that, my problem at the moment is getting a spring weak enough to allow the governor to work properly. I have aluminium as well as brass weights, all 5/8" dia. Will check out a spring maker this week.

Paul.


----------



## ELM6061 (Sep 9, 2013)

G'day Paul, If it is any help, I am pretty sure I have a few spare compression springs that are pretty light weight here at home. What size are you after exactly?

I did also have some stretch springs here, but no idea where they are now.

Eddie


----------



## Swifty (Sep 9, 2013)

Hi Eddie, I need 3/8"OD, and about .020" wire dia.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Sep 9, 2013)

Bought a box of assorted springs from the neighbourhood hardware store. The Webster Engine intake valve spring came from here.
The first spring was too strong and low speed idling was difficult to get.
Found a very weak spring and proven to be good for low speed idling. 
Springs for the "Hit & Miss" would come from here. Backup would be make a spring machine to make springs as per engine drawing. Needless to say ,Gus has no experience making his own DIY Springs.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 9, 2013)

Gus--Its fairly easy to wind your own tension springs from music wire (I use guitar springs). I have posted a couple of "how to" posts on the forum. Compression springs are a bit more difficult, and require the use of a spring winding fixture and an automatic carriage feed on the lathe as would be used for cutting threads.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Sep 9, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Eddie, I need 3/8"OD, and about .020" wire dia.
> 
> Paul.


 
how long??


----------



## petertha (Sep 9, 2013)

Swifty said:


> ...it allows you to try different positions for the gear before committing to a fixed position. I plan to drill a shallow indent in the shaft to take the grub screw once I'm happy with the exhaust valve timing.
> Paul.


 
Ive been wondering about different gear attachment methods related to cam timing gears. I understand the grub screw idea to position the gear or even alter it a bit. But once estblished, what is the best way to go about milling the corresponding underlying flat on the shaft to match that exact position when the gear is re-introduced to the shaft & the grub screw bottom mates to it? ie - the flat itself is tiny, so if was was off by a smidge, that might translate into a larger angle, especially related to cam/valve timing etc.

Nice build!


----------



## Swifty (Sep 9, 2013)

Petertha, I intend to drill a shallow hole in the shaft the same diameter as the grub screw. I will do this once I'm happy with the valve timing, the grub screw will leave a big enough mark on the shaft to allow me to see where to drill the hole.

Luc, I think that the spring will be about 1 1/2" long, will have to experiment a bit.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Sep 10, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Gus--Its fairly easy to wind your own tension springs from music wire (I use guitar springs). I have posted a couple of "how to" posts on the forum. Compression springs are a bit more difficult, and require the use of a spring winding fixture and an automatic carriage feed on the lathe as would be used for cutting threads.




Hi Brian,

Thanks.

Tubal Cain,UK( the real Tubal died some years back) wrote a book on how to make springs. Trying to find time to read it. Meanwhile I cheat with Kit boxes of assorted springs. Been stretching tension springs to use as compression springs.:hDe::hDe:
Valves done,lapped and installed with retainers. Push-rod guide done.
Now getting a good feeling of compression and vacuum.Viton Rings has yet to come in.
Now about to cut timing gears and cam. The Hit & Miss is stretching Gus's limited
machining skills. Good learning experience. Been fun. Scrapping parts is good learning experience too.


----------



## Swifty (Sep 11, 2013)

Member Eddie, (ELM6061) dropped off some assorted springs this morning and I have put everything back together. I have had the engine running in hit and miss mode in short spurts, I still need to play around with the fuel as it tends to flood. I will finish the fuel tank next as this will get the fuel level below the carburettor which I think will help a lot.

I'm very happy with the electronic ignition, it's a great way to go.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Sep 11, 2013)

My son called around after work and was keen to see the progress on the  engine, so I put up the makeshift fuel tank again and ran it for him. I  also played around with the spring tension on the governor while it was  running. Things started to improve, so I decided to change over the  aluminium weights to the brass one's and also changed the spring to a  slightly stronger one. These changes allowed the engine to run for a  longer time with the hit and miss cycle working well. I will be happy  when I have the new fuel tank ready, as this will help a lot.

The video was taken again with my pocket camera, so it's not too good, but you will get he idea.





Paul.


----------



## ELM6061 (Sep 11, 2013)

G'day Paul, great to see the governor "spring" in action. Any idea what the RPM would be, and what you may be able to get it down to (Brian can probably answer the second part better)?
Roughly, at it's lowest RPM Brian, do you know how many misses to hits do you get?

Paul, how much more do you need to do to the fuel tank before it is also completed?

Eddie


Eddie


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 11, 2013)

I think mine is running at about 150 rpm. It goes thru 3 or 4 miss cycles. Wonderful job, Swifty. If you want the engine to go faster, try lighter balls on the governor.


----------



## Swifty (Sep 11, 2013)

Eddie, I don't know how fast it is running, will check it out later. I would like to have it running as slow as possible. I probably have about a days work on the fuel tank, but the problem is finding the time.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Sep 12, 2013)

Finished the fuel tank, it's made from 1" pipe, I would have liked it a bit bigger but it's all I had. I don't intend to run the engine for prolonged periods, so the fuel capacity should be enough. The only thing to make now are some brackets to attach it to the engine. The screw in the vent hole has a 2mm slot milled in the side to allow air to get in, and it also can't shake out as it's held captive by a pin.





Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Sep 13, 2013)

I've made some brackets and mounted up the fuel tank as you will see in the photo's. Now all I have to do is put the electrics back on, fill the tank and fire it up.
Apart from mounting it on a permanent baseboard, the engine just needs a polish and it's finished.








And here is a picture of the spring and brass weights that I am using on the governor.





Paul.


----------



## canadianhorsepower (Sep 13, 2013)

awesome work hope mine will look that good


----------



## Swifty (Sep 13, 2013)

I'm sure that your engine will look great, everyone puts their individual touches to their build, it's great to see the methods that others use to make the same item.

Paul.


----------



## metalmad (Sep 13, 2013)

Top Job swifty
She's a sweetheart 
Pete


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 13, 2013)

Nice tank Swifty. You do great work.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Sep 13, 2013)

Thanks guys. Brian, if it wasn't for you calling for members to build your engine, I would probably still be making air operated ones.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 13, 2013)

Swifty--I am pleased to no end that you answered the call and built my engine. You have done an absolutely masterful job of it. There is however, a great danger in what you have done. You may never again be totally satisfied with air operated engines. I was perfectly happy, and thrilled with my air operated engine builds. Then after building about a dozen, I decided that I needed something with a bit more challenge. I built the Webster i.c. engine, and was immediately hooked, and it opened up a whole new world of exciting builds for me. Thank you so much for building this engine. I hope you have enjoyed it and met a few new people though the build.---I hope you stay involved until all of the engines are completed. Lean on Pat Hutcheson a bit to start posting about the Rupnow Engine he is building--Brian


----------



## ELM6061 (Sep 13, 2013)

Well as always, I am in awe of your work Paul. A master of the machines, materials that you work with and if Brian is correct with his "danger" prediction, I look forward to see what the future holds for you.
Brain I must also say, you are an inspiration and great asset to the forum. The involvement and friendship amongst forum members, that you have built up from this little engine alone, is amazing. I tip my hat to you sir.

To everyone that is giving this little motor a go, credit must also go to you for sharing your knowledge and experience as well. Pat Hutcheson I look forward to reading, comparing your take on this little gem.

Eddie


----------



## gus (Sep 13, 2013)

Fuel tank and bracket very well done. Will be hard to copy. Thm:
Were the fittings silver brazed or just plain soldered on.

Please post video with engine running.

About to go fishing.( Must been too tired,messed up three pinion gear blanks but the 3/8 machine reamer performed well and its a Taylor & Jones UK Machine Reamer. Or maybe my gear cutting skill gone bad.)


----------



## Swifty (Sep 13, 2013)

Gus, that is actually my second attempt at the fuel tank, the first one I silver soldered and thought that it would be ok, but the soldering wasn't great and it leaked. The second one I used lead solder and actually tinned the ends of the tube before putting the brass end caps on and finishing it. I use a Mapp torch for soldering and absolutely love it.

I originally planned to make the tank mounts from solid stock, but suddenly had the idea to use some brass strip that I have. I just bent the strip around a steel bar, hammering it where necessary, but I was thinking afterwards that it would have been better to make up a simple bending jig. 

I'm waiting to get hold of a decent video camera before I post another video, I wonder if the $60 5 MP cameras are any good? I have seen them in a couple of places lately.

I had the engine running this morning, stopped and started for a while as I played around with the spring tension for the governor, I also made a bit of a guide for the spring to stop it rubbing on the threaded shaft, I will post a picture of it later. The longest I let the engine run was for 20 minutes, the cylinder was warm, but I could still hold it with my bare hand. The engine appears to fire twice and then freewheel about 5 times, then fire twice again. I had the pin holding one of the ball weights in come out and the weight actually hit me in the chest, will make the pins a tighter fit.

Paul.


----------



## AussieJimG (Sep 14, 2013)

That's a good looking engine Swifty, congratulations.

Jim


----------



## Smithers (Sep 14, 2013)

Sweet, really nice build Swifty and well detailed, don't know how I missed this thread.
Andrew


----------



## Swifty (Sep 14, 2013)

Andrew, how is progress on your build going?

Paul.


----------



## Smithers (Sep 14, 2013)

Hi Paul,
Bogged down at the moment!! Just finding it hard to get motivated to do anything after work, I spend all day machining parts for a living, but I will get back into it. Ordered the CDI ignition, plug and boot today.

Andrew


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 14, 2013)

Andrew--I couldn't do that---machine parts all day and then build model engines as a hobby. I have been a machine designer for almost half a century, but actually machining something is a whole new game to me. When I was younger, and really needed the money, a lot of my co-workers were working Saturdays and evenings doing architectural drawings or "moonlighting" work for other engineering firms. I just couldn't do it. 8 hours a day of design work was all I could stand.--I fully understand the old adage about "The shoemakers children going barefoot".--The poor shoemaker was probably like me--after a day spent making shoes for other folks, he had no energy left to work in the evenings and weekends.


----------



## Smithers (Sep 14, 2013)

Brian, not making any excuses, I absolutely love the model engineering thing, have done for the last 30 odd years, I cannot believe the quality and perfection obtained in not only this build, but in every build (wish I could post this in every build). Yes, I'm a machinist, early days all manual machining turning dials but in later years just CNC programming but still love making anything from metal whether its conventionally done or by pressing a "start" button on a CNC. I also have a fascination with CAD, having started off on AutoCAD at home, progressing to design for 6 years using Unigraphics full time before returning to getting my hands dirty in the machining game. Anyway, enough of hijacking this thread, to all building Brians engine.... go for it...and thank you Brian for all your design/drawings/explanations and genuine interest in all people committed to building this engine.

Andrew


----------



## gus (Sep 15, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Andrew--I couldn't do that---machine parts all day and then build model engines as a hobby. I have been a machine designer for almost half a century, but actually machining something is a whole new game to me. When I was younger, and really needed the money, a lot of my co-workers were working Saturdays and evenings doing architectural drawings or "moonlighting" work for other engineering firms. I just couldn't do it. 8 hours a day of design work was all I could stand.--I fully understand the old adage about "The shoemakers children going barefoot".--The poor shoemaker was probably like me--after a day spent making shoes for other folks, he had no energy left to work in the evenings and weekends.



Hi Brian & Andrew,

May I chip in.
I ran a machineshop with full compliment of machine tools Leblonde Lathes,
Okamoto Vertical mill,Okamoto Surface Grinder,China Shaper,China Vertical
Slotting Machine,80 ton Air Bender#,200 ton Deep Draw Press#, Auto S/Arc
Welders,Mig Welders,Rotary Welder#,Main SeamWelder,Guillotine Cutters,
WheelaBrator(copied) Blasting Machine"#,OverHead Cranes#,Auto Oxy Cutters,Aluminium Furnace#,100 ton China Stamping Press and no time and energy left after 5:30pm. More than enough machine tools to builder bigger Model Engines. So much cut-offs left over bar stocks.

# Designed and build by Gus and his team.
The consolation I have was  successfully building these Production Machines# from scratch to make air receivers. Have no regret looking back.


----------



## Swifty (Sep 16, 2013)

I made the muffler that Brian drew up, however I made a slight change, instead of a series of holes I machined a radial slot. As Brian said, it's more to direct the exhaust downwards to avoid oil marks on my shirt.




I also found that the spring for the governor was tending to get caught on the threaded rod that it slides on, so I machined up a bush that goes over the threaded rod and fits inside the spring.




Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Sep 16, 2013)

Very nice Paul. That's the neat things about these small engines. As long as someone has designed a working basic module, you can make all kind of nifty changes to "personalize" them.--I could see the knurled knob on the threaded rod dancing all over the place in the video, and kind of thought that must be what was happening.---Brian


----------



## Swifty (Sep 16, 2013)

Brian, at the time that I took the video the threaded rod was a loose fit in the tapped hole, that's why it was dancing all over the place. I have since loctited it in.


----------



## Swifty (Sep 25, 2013)

Have recently bought some oak to make a base for the engine and a box to hide the electrical gear.

Important note to self: mitre gears eat earth wires when they come too close.:wall:

Paul.


----------



## gus (Sep 25, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Have recently bought some oak to make a base for the engine and a box to hide the electrical gear.
> 
> Important note to self: mitre gears eat earth wires when they come too close.:wall:
> 
> Paul.




Hi Paul,

Thanks for the advance warning. The earth and contact point wire will be harnessed and strapped down to mini rail on the cam gear side.
At last I see light at the end of the tunnel..

Bought a 1'' thick cheapy China Plywood for the base.  Oak or good tropical hardwood cost a bomb here.


----------



## Swifty (Oct 2, 2013)

I decided that I better get busy and make the base to mount the engine on, but first off I thought that I would make a box to hide the electrics. 

Before I start, let me fill you in on this, the Woolworth conglomeration is busy building Masters hardware stores around the country, about a year ago they opened one near me, by all accounts they are struggling to make any money, but one good thing is that they stock dressed timber in 6mm and 8mm (and others) thicknesses, with varying widths in Oak, Poplar and I think, Cedar. All very nice sizes and material for the home hobbyist. 

I purchased some 6mm x 44mm and some 6mm x 90mm oak. The 44mm is for the sides and the 90 is for the top and bottom. First decision was how to join the sides together, I decided that I would try making finger joins, at least that is what I think they are called.

The first picture shows the 4 sides already machined.





Now I step backwards a bit and I will show you how I machined them in the next picture. I sandwiched the sides between a couple of bits of scrap chipboard and used a 6mm end mill to mill the slots. The bits of scrap are to prevent any chipping of the oak.





Next I applied some PVA glue to the joins and tapped everything together, I also glued on a top and bottom piece, and clamped it up overnight.





After trimming the top and bottom, this left me with an enclosed box.





Next thing to do was cut all the way around to form a lid. I set up a slitting saw in the mill, with a parallel clamped to the table as a backstop. By holding the box down on the table and against the parallel, I fed the box against the saw by hand, cutting through all 4 sides.





On the inside of the lid, I glued some thin strips at each end to act as locators to align with the box. (Sorry, no picture) After a bit of work with some sandpaper, and several applications of some cabinetmakers wax, I now have a box to house the electrics. I will machine some slots in the box later to allow the wires to come out. I did not want to mess around with hinges and catches, that's why I used locators in the lid. I have ordered some rare earth magnets that I will embed in the sides to keep the lid on.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Oct 2, 2013)

I cut a piece of oak to length for the base, routed a chamfer around the top edges, gave it a good sand, and applied several coats of cabinetmakers wax. The electrical box was screwed on in a couple of places, I also replaced the earth wire that was previously chewed by the bevel gears, and I needed a longer spark plug wire. I happened to have some silicon wire that I had been saving for about 20 years, although white instead of black, I used this for the replacement HT wire. Apart from making a small clamp to hold down the HT wire, the engine now joins other finished projects. I will post a video of it running as soon as I get my hands on a decent video camera.














Thanks everyone for following along.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Oct 2, 2013)

Well Paul---You may not have the first Rupnow engine ever built, but I can say that you definitely have the prettiest!!! And you just got to love a guy that does beautiful woodwork with his machinists tools!!!


----------



## Swifty (Oct 2, 2013)

Thanks Brian, I think that the lid will be a perfect place to have a plaque that says "Rupnow Hit and Miss Engine 2013", will have to look in to it.

Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Oct 3, 2013)

I like the look of your gas tank better than mine. I hunted all over to find my gas tank, which is the fuel tank off an old Coleman gas iron, thinking it would be "period perfect" for a hit and miss engine. I've had it on two engines now, and I don't really like the look of it near as much as a simple cylindrical tank like yours.---Brian


----------



## Path (Oct 3, 2013)

Paul ..

Your H&M ... well simple put ... is beautifully done.
It's worthy of showing off on your living room mantel for all to see.

Hope I can do something as good.

Looking forward to your video.

Pat H.


----------



## Swifty (Oct 3, 2013)

Brian, when I made the fuel tank, I only had the 1" copper pipe, which at the time I thought was a bit small. However I am happy with the size, although I could probably fitted in up to 1 1/2" dia in the position that I have the tank.

Have you ever thought about using some square or rectangular thin walled tubing, it would probably only be available in steel. The biggest problem that I see with steel is when it's soldered / welded you will have a fair bit of scale to get rid of. I may give it a go sometime just to try it out.

Pat, thanks for your comments. My wife and I share a study and we both have glass fronted cabinets, my wife has already said that she wants the engine in her cabinet, although that's what she said about my last beam engine, and that's in my cabinet.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Oct 3, 2013)

Brian, I must comment on your one way valve, it's works extremely well, the fuel refuses to flow back into the tank even after several days.

Paul.


----------



## Path (Oct 3, 2013)

Paul,

I noticed that you added a spring on the Push Rod Guide that attaches to the Push Rod.
I guess that helps the Push Rod stay in contact with the Cam Gear?
What was it doing to compel you to add the spring?
I looked in your posts but couldn't find a comments about that.

Also noticed what looks like two oil holes in the Push Rod Guide .. makes it easier to oil? 

Finally (for now) did you use the locating pins? Doesn't look like they are in place. Maybe later?

I really like your gas tank ... mind if I use your design?

Thanks,


Pat H


----------



## Swifty (Oct 3, 2013)

Pat, maybe I made the pushrod guide a bit too neat fitting, I found that the valve spring was not always pushing it back fully and the valve not seating properly, that's when I decided to add the extra spring, I probably could have fixed the problem by using a bigger valve spring. I also liked the idea of having the cam in constant contact with the bearing on the pushrod.

I ended up making a larger push rod after the original bent, and I added the 2 oil holes to aid lubricating the rod.

Please go ahead and copy my gas tank design, I went out this morning and picked up a box of assorted O rings as I needed one for under the tank breather screw to seal it off when not running.

I haven't bothered finishing off the dowel pin holes at this stage as I have had no problem reassembling the parts.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Oct 4, 2013)

A MasterPiece done by a Master Craftsman. The Carpentry Work is very good too.
The base and box also done my a Master Carpenter. Did you do carpentry in school too.
Will carbon copy this too if I can buy Oak.If not,will buy teak or Chengai.


----------



## Swifty (Oct 4, 2013)

Hi Gus, at school I did woodwork and metalwork, although the projects we made were very basic. I enjoy working with wood, but I am certainly no cabinetmaker. The main problem I have with wood is finishing the surfaces with lacquer, that's why I settled on using cabinetmakers wax. Will have to be careful that I don't spill too much fuel on it as it may take the wax off.

Paul.


----------



## Smithers (Oct 11, 2013)

Nice work Paul, beautiful metal and woodworking skills.

Andrew


----------



## Swifty (Oct 11, 2013)

Thanks Andrew, looking forward to seeing yours progress.

Paul.


----------



## Swifty (Oct 28, 2013)

Well, I finally managed to borrow a decent camera to video the engine, of course the other problem that I had was trying to convert the video to a suitable format that I could upload, but all sorted after a few hours. No commentary, just the engine running, the mitre gears tend to make a bit of noise.





Paul.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Oct 28, 2013)

Swifty--Its a beautiful thing!!!---Brian


----------



## Cogsy (Oct 28, 2013)

Sounds awesome. I quite like the whine from the gears.


----------



## Path (Oct 28, 2013)

Fantastic ... looks and runs great!



Pat H


----------



## Philjoe5 (Oct 28, 2013)

What a great looking and running engine.  Fine work, and a super video.  I like the gear sound too!  If it was silent it'd be an electric motor, right?:hDe:

Congratulations

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Swifty (Oct 28, 2013)

Thanks for the comments guys, I suppose the noise of the gears would be improved a bit if I used purchased spiral ones.

Paul.


----------



## gus (Oct 28, 2013)

Hi Paul,
Great engine running and great video taken with a good camera. Please advise brand and model.
Videos taken with my Iphone is barely acceptable.
Just got back from Thailand. Great food and fishing. Just to much rainfall. Will be working on the arbor for the Module 1.0 Gear Cutter to cut the Mitre Gears. Been reading on gear cutting.


----------



## Swifty (Oct 29, 2013)

Hi Gus, the video camera is a JVC GZ-HM1, it's full HD 1080 output, 10 mega pixel. My son couldn't find the software installation disc, and I could not find anywhere on the Internet to download it, so had a bit of trouble downloading to my computer. But it all went well in the end.

I have an old video camera somewhere that records on tapes, not worth the trouble to look for it.

Paul.


----------



## gus (May 7, 2014)

Hi Paul,
Just took a look at your last video. Should done this earlier and would and saved lots of time.
Planning to do up the Hitting & Missing and make it more pronounced. That is the vroom vroom when it cuts-in and speed up and cut-off. Just as if Paul is doing the manual vrooming.

Putting in the drawers now for the Tool Cabinet. The plywood supplier goofed. Some pieces not squared up.Have to clear up this mess.  

Before starting on the Nemett-Lynx Engine,will do homework that is read/comprehend and plan every step and have mikes and vernier calipers to check ODs. etc.


----------



## Swifty (May 7, 2014)

Hi Gus, perhaps you should go for the original designed carb, it may work more authentic.

I haven't got my materials for the Nemett Lynx yet, must do so next week.

Paul.


----------

