# Windows shopping for 3-D printer.



## Tin Falcon (Apr 20, 2014)

:wall:  Well I have been pondering and googleing. I have been intrigued with the new technology of the 3-d home DIY printers.  And the price of the kits have come down . The more I look the more options I see and see how much there is to learn. 

As far as options I found this site informative. 

http://www.3ders.org/pricecompare/3dprinters/?a=DIY%20kit

Like anything else finding something one can afford that has good usability and I like the the looks of it. 

Lot of stuff that has wood or plastic frames or looks like it crawled out of a High school robotics lab. 
then there is the cube a little too finished and commercial looking . I could afford a used on e off e-bay. 
The inventor is intriguing  welded steel frame that I can do but it  is development and the details not to be found. 
IMHO the nicest I have seen for the money is the 

Asterid  1000 HB









I did have the crazy Idea of throwing a edruder in the spindle of my mini mill and a hot plate on the bed and giving it a go LOL.  
For now I think i will do my homework and watch where this technology goes. And try to put some money aside.
 For now  need to focus and get the cnc stuff making parts. 
So things to ponder for the future. 

Thanks for listening to the rambles and insights are always welcome.

 Tin


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## RonGinger (Apr 20, 2014)

I just bought a Solidoodle 4 http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=129http://. I was planning to go to the Midwest RepRap fest but got snowed out, I could not get out of my drive in time to catch the train. So I decided Id throw the money I would have spent on the trip with what I figured to spend on parts and just buy one.

I like the Solidoodle because it is fully enclosed and the mechanism is very professional looking- timing belts, good size linear rod and bearings, etc. All the electronics are inside the box, and so far I have not even opened it to see whats in there.

My print results are mixed- several attempts have failed to stick to the build plate. I covered it with glass and used hair spray with only mixed luck. The print quality is not bad- I think with some filling or sanding I could actually use one as a pattern for investment casting of model parts- that is my main goal. Im going to try to spray paint a piece with the sandable primer and see how that fills the ribbing.

Last summer I bought the Printrbot Simple for $299 in kit form. That was a grandson project and it worked pretty well. He is 15 and has not done much hand skill work, other than clicking a mouse  He was able to assemble it and get it working. I let him take it home and he continues to print 'stuff' with it. Its main weakness is the axis drive that uses a string and pulleys. Workable and consistent with a $299 device.

I considered the idea of an extruder on a CNC mill, but I dont think it would be fast enough. I haven't figured the speed of the SD4, but it moves a lot faster than my mill will ever go.

There sure are a lot of choices out there.


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 20, 2014)

Tempting !!
http://www.studica.com/us/en/XYZprinting/davinci-10-desktop-3d-printer.html






Only $499
and the sibling two headed version $ 699. 

I think this is a fast moving technology right now but also a case of how low can you go and keep quality?

Hmmm But I have a feeling this similar to regular printing sell the printer a a slim margin and then mark up the filament big time.
Tin


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## BAH101 (Apr 20, 2014)

I bough a Makerbot Replicator 2X last year. Not cheap, but got good results out of the box. I have since upgraded the heated build plate to an improved model and a few plastic pieces to aluminum. 
Here is a pic of some helicopter tail rotor rigging tools I printed up 




Sent from my iPhone using Model Engines


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## aonemarine (Apr 20, 2014)

I've been very happy with my Rostock max.  It's a kit you have to assemble and does take some time to do, but it was worth it. And they have a wonderful support forum.
  What's nice about this printer is its a delta style and very easy to upgrade and tinker with, and I love to tinker.


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## aonemarine (Apr 20, 2014)

Oh and tin, the files for the enventor are on thingiverse.com.


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## TimTaylor (Apr 21, 2014)

Be careful of printers such as the cube, which requires you to use their proprietary filament cartridges.......costs lots more than filament from a generic supplier and you don't have as many options.

After looking at what was available at the time, I wound up purchasing an Afinia H series about a year ago and have been very happy with it - made my first print within an hour of opening the box 

The standard epoxy perfboard build plate works extremely well and I have had zero issues with parts not adhering  to the plate - also have tried a glass plate with either kapton film or blue masking tape with equally good results.  

I added the extruder temperature control from Octave Systems, which allows you to adjust the extruder temperature for different materials, and have successfully printed parts from ABS, PLA and nylon with no problems.


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## Ken I (Apr 21, 2014)

Well I bought an "UP! Plus" 3D printer (heated perfboard platten - 2 litre cube capacity) and have been having a lot of fun with it.

I have used it for some complex parts and also discovered that even where the plastic isn't going to cut it strength wise, giving a toolmaker a solid model to look at can take hours off his time spent interpreting drawings.

I found it amusing to watch one old hand look at the drawing and then pick up the printed model and measure with his vernier as a double check on his understanding.

The UP! software works magic on things like smart support and internal honeycombing as well as calibrating the machine (software takes care of geometric inaccuracies in the machine).

By and large I am well satisfied - although I have been disappointed in the physical strength of some parts.

Thus far I have only printed in ABS.

Regards,

Ken


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## TimTaylor (Apr 21, 2014)

Ken,

The Afinia H series I have is the same printer as your UP! Plus, re-branded for the US market.  I hear they just released a new version that incorporates auto extruder height setting and platen leveling functions to make it even easier to use. It's not a big deal for me as it only takes a couple minutes to do once you get the hang of it, but I can see where it would make it even easier for those who want a truly "out of the box and ready to go" printer.

I use it primarily for custom fixturing adapters for laser measurement systems I use in my profession and am very happy with it so far. Agree that strength of printed parts with small cross sections can be an issue, but that's the nature of the plastics used to print with. I typically design for rigidity anyway, so it hasn't been a big issue for me.

I'm in the early design stages of a couple scale model steam turbines, and plan on using the printer to create the patterns for the casings, which I will cast from either aluminum or bronze, but that's a ways away......

Tim


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## Philjoe5 (Apr 21, 2014)

Tin,
I just joined a local Mini Maker's Faire group.  Several members are doing 3D printing, of which I am clueless, and I bring my air powered steam engine models, of which most of the members are clueless.  It's a great way to bring old school and new school together.  Lots of interest in robotics too and these guys have to buy all the parts because no one has a machine shop.  So I'm thinking I'll have a lot to trade with these guys.

If you have a group near you I'll bet you'll find a lot of 3D printing experience and results to mull over.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Gonzo007 (Apr 21, 2014)

I have a Tinkerine Litto and love it.  Works great.  I am also very lucky because there its a local company and I have access to support.  I really like the SeeMeCNC Rostock max.  Right now on Kickstarter there is a M3D.  Its the one to watch, since the price is 299.  Problem is the earliest you can get one is next Feb.  

There is lots of options now and way more to come.  

Colin


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## jkimberln (Apr 21, 2014)

If you can't do CAD drawings on one of the programs that outputs STL files, then there is no point in having a 3d printer.  I'm one of those people.  I have a 3d printer too, which I use when someone else wants to give me a file to print or will draw something for me.  But I just can't get the hang of CAD for some reason.

JerryK


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## TimTaylor (Apr 22, 2014)

Jerry,

I feel your pain - by their nature the majority of the 3D CAD programs are fairly complex, the user interface can be daunting and the learning curve is pretty steep. 

As an alternative, take a look at the Cubify Invent program. It has a fairly simple user interface and is really easy to work with. You can download a 14 day trial version from their web site, and the full license is only $49 if you decide you like it.

Tim


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 22, 2014)

I was using the Alibre /Geomagic so am farily comfortable with 3-d . I am probably go with cubifydesign. it does stl files and 2d drawing outputs. If you are only running a 3-d printer cubify invent is the way to go. 


> Right now on Kickstarter there is a M3D. Its the one to watch, since the price is 299. Problem is the earliest you can get one is next Feb.



Interesting tempting ? a little but the thing is tiny. it fits in the print envelope of a soliddoodle or plastic scribbler. 


the davinci according to one receive has garbage for software but fairly easily fixed. 



> I really like the SeeMeCNC Rostock max



does seem nice nice features and a huge print envelope. 

Tin


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## TimTaylor (Apr 22, 2014)

Tin Falcon said:


> I was using the Alibre /Geomagic so am farily comfortable with 3-d . I am probably go with cubifydesign. it does stl files and 2d drawing outputs. If you are only running a 3-d printer cubify invent is the way to go.



Staying with something you're familiar with isn't a bad approach. I use BOBCAD/CAM at work for 2D/2.5D, so Invent was strictly for use with the 3D printer. 

For home use I recently purchased Sharpcam, who just released their 3D version. I'm just getting started with it so have somewhat of a learning curve ahead of me, but so far, so good. The user interface is very nice and the graphics are outstanding. They are really nice people to deal with, not at all high pressure like some of their competitors. The cost is very reasonable for it's capabilities, support is 100% free and they do offer a discount to hobbyists. If someone doesn't want or need the integrated CAM capabilities it's probably way overkill, but for me it was the way to go.

Tim


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## Nerdz (Apr 22, 2014)

The Best Advice I can give you, is find a hacker space in NJ. Most of them have a 3d Printer on hand.  I would try it out first before shelling out money. 

http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/New_Jersey

I thought of joining the local CT one, but erm, not for $50 a month! But most do have open house nights. I know mine does, I just havent gone because I dont see a reason too. If you really get into it and dont mind a 2hr drive in September, There is the World Maker Faire in Queens NY. They have a large 3d Printer section. There are some very knowledgeable people there!

My personal Opinion: Their cool and all, but I just dont see the practical use. Quick Prototyping is one thing, but Ive heard someone using 3d prints to make a mold, and then filling that mold with Molten Metal. I would personally get a 3d printer just for that purpose. Turning scrap Aluminum into parts for a model would be quite interesting.


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## aonemarine (Apr 22, 2014)

Don't see a pratical use??  My printer has bailed me out more than once. And when you combine 3D printing with investment casting, the sky is the limit!


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 22, 2014)

There have been a fair amount of 3-d printers at some of the ME shows.  And I have a friend that has done some amazing things w 3d printer. . He is a retired college instructor. I need to stop in I drive by his house daily. I probably need to ask more questions. 

A 3-D printer is a tool.  what you can do with it is only limited by imagination and the time and effort used to learn how to use it. what is the use of a mill or lathe in a hobby shop?? 

IMHO 3-D printing is in the toddler stage. Past infancy but still in development. 

Apparently these things will make toys candy chocolate wax patterns etc. 
If a 3-D printer can make parts to build a 3-d printer there is potential. 
A lathe is touted for self replicating. 

I am trying to decide if a 3-D printer is right for me. And which one . 

Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 24, 2014)

Another option I am looking at is the soliddoodle 2nd gen the expert is $499 and the base model is Only $399 . The expert has the heated build plate and covers and a couple other minor upgrades. The one review I saw says it takes some time to get it adjusts and dialed in . 


http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=131

the SD is small and portable 11.5^3 but a decent build envelop of 6^3

the  Di Vinci has a bigger 8^3 envelope but much larger physical  footprint. 

The asterid  is 18^3 with a 8^3 print envelope and a bit more money. Hmmmmm.
Tin 
tin


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## aonemarine (Apr 24, 2014)

Tin just remember, any printer you get will be a tinker toy. You have to tinker with them and play around with them before you can get those perfect prints. Like you said they are still in thier infancy. But once you learn what it takes to run one, and what thier capable of, you can do this....Lost pla castings


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## TimTaylor (Apr 25, 2014)

Tin,

What aonemarine said.......

I'm not familiar with the soliddoodle specifically. but with any 3D printer there are a couple things you need to do before you start printing - both should be covered in your printer instructions:

The first is leveling the build plate so that the gap to the nozzle is the same at all locations on the plate. You can do it with feeler gauges, or rig a dial indicator mount on the print head. It's the 3D printer equivalent of tramming a milling machine.

The second is to set the print head to build plate minimum gap.

Once these are done you're ready to print a calibration object and enter any adjustments following the directions for your specific printer.

Now it's time to print the fun stuff!

The first two steps don't take but a few minutes, and the 3rd is dependent on how long the calibration print takes.


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## RonGinger (Apr 25, 2014)

I have the SOlidoodle4 and think it is an excellent machine. I like the way it is buuit around a metal box frame instead of the jungle jim look of threaded rod. I also like the full enclosed box since temperature stability is helpful for print. I wonder how they are doing that, since Stratsys holds a patent on an enclosed space, as dumb as that sounds.

My machine arrive just a couple days before cabin fever, and now I am in Detroit for NAMES, so I have not really had much time with it- I have printed a couple things and I am happy with the surface finish- they still show some ribbing but I think they can be filled or smothed to make investment patterns.

I like the comment that this is still 'toddler stage' It will develop over time, deciding just when to jump in is hard.
 I am to old to wait very long.


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## TimTaylor (Apr 25, 2014)

Ron,

If you haven't already, check out the thingiverse.com site. There's some pretty interesting stuff there.

What print resolution are you using? The finer the resolution you use, the better the surface smoothness - the trade off is that it takes longer to print.

I'm in the early stages of designing a couple of scale model steam turbines. My plan is to make the patterns for the casings using the 3D printer and then sand cast them.


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 26, 2014)

> I like the comment that this is still 'toddler stage' It will develop over time, deciding just when to jump in is hard.
> I am to old to wait very long.



Yep knowing when to jump where to jump ect. 

I guess in a perfect world I would want to buy one learn how it works and build a better one.

and to buy a cheap one and throw a bunch of money in ? Makes more sense to get something decent. 

I expect to tinker but at this point I think I want something that can make parts not something that is another project. 


Eventbot.A possibility but need to dig to get the plan the info is there is a google sketup file . I can download a trial version of cubify design and make drawings of the individual parts from the stl files. 

So do I buy one  build one or both?? 


The casting thing is certainly a possible application . Years ago i set up a sandbox casting bench and built a couple flasks.  I have a small gas forge I have used for smithing. . Weld up a couple small pipe crucibles and I can pour aluminum. And the printer can print patterns. 

Thank you all for the input, and encouragement. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 27, 2014)

More pondering and drooling . I am looking at the solid doodle 2G and the asterid hb middle grade. unit. The more I look at the asterid the more I like it. 


They both have things I  like and things to be improved upon. the question I am asking my self is what can I easily fix. and what would I have to live with. 

the biggest downside of the sd is only one lead screw to lift the table so the table is only supported in the back. and the 6x6 build envelope is smaller than the other one. 

The other question I ask is how big a print envelope do I need. 6X6 x6 would probably work but 8 x 8 x 8 gives more flexibility. 
just for fun I ran some numbers. A 1 kilo 2.2 lb spool of ABS will print a cube just under 4". so if and it would never happen it would take 8 spools for a 8" solid cube and @ $30 a spool  well you get the Idea. 
But I know I can always print smaller. and since the printer stretcher has not been invented yet a little bigger is likely better. 


Interesting seems like many of the hobby level 3-d printers are made with 3-D printed parts so if one starts by making spare parts there is no need to purchase them. 

I have also noticed there is a big difference in the price of spare parts the spares list for the asterid is not long but the prices are very reasonable. 

The 
Asterid 1000HB 3D Printer definitely has room to improve tinker with. the good side is it is ready to print out of the box . 30 day money back guarantee. But the fixes are well fixable. it is an open design but not difficult to add cover panels . I would prefer easy access to the power supply and the computer controller board Likely not hard to move outside the box. or I could add a cover. The wires are out in the open but easily dressed up. 

I have also been reading about the differences between ABS and PLA. 


I know I am thinking out loud here. I am hoping my pondering , research and posting here helps others as well as my own decision making.

Tin


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## aonemarine (Apr 27, 2014)

Tin,  I had thought about building my own printer. I sources out parts and prices, ordered a few bits and pieces, then just bought one as a kit instead.  It to me over 30 hours to assemble my rostock, and a few weeks of learning the machine before I could print with the best of them. I just upgraded the stock hot end I had Ben using for the past 7 months to a new all metal hot end so I can try printing with nylon.  It's taking some playing to get the new hot end figured out for the .1 mm layer height prints that I want for investment casting. If the nozzle plugs up one more time I'm going to pull someone's hair out!!  Yep 3d printing in a nut shell...  If your in the area sometime and want to stop by to bs about 3 d printing and see my printer just let me know when.  Maybe Matt, my partner in crime will have time for us to drop in on him as well to see his printers, he has much more knowledge than I do when it comes to them.  He has a makerbot replicator, an ultimaker,a robo3d, and a deltamaker. Maybe even one or two more I dont know of LOL.


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## Tin Falcon (May 24, 2014)

I am still pondering researching. 
Trying to tuck some money aside. 

I like the looks of the eventorbot.  like many it is open source. 
the info is there but much detail to be extracted.
Parts to be sourced etc. 
Sain Smart has lots of package options for all the controls from about $ 90 for a basic controller to a full package for $300 with a smart controller cables steppers limit switches etc. 

http://www.sainsmart.com/ramps-1-4-a4988-mega2560-r3-lcd-12864-3d-printer-controller-kit-for-reprap.html
then I need linear bearings guide rod the extrude parts etc. 
linear bearing can run from about a dollar a piece to $30 each and I could pay close to $80 for a power supply. or find one for $30
SO one needs to do a lot research just to buy right. 

It seems like the original project leader and kick starter project is going nowhere no activity for about a year. 

I am still looking hard at the plastic scribbler. $499- about 699 but is comes assembled and more or less plug and play . choices choices. 
Tin


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## rodw (May 25, 2014)

Tin, might be more than you want to spend, but I liked this one
http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/4/19/the-mankati-fullscale-xt-3d-printer

I would have an email with contact details for the manufacturer. From memory the quote I got a few months ago was about USD $1800 delivered to Australia and has a big build envelope.

It seems a very well built and is a dual filament machine. This lets you use 2 different materials and you can buy a tank that disolves one of them which allows you to build supports for much more complex shapes by adding support structures that are disolved.


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## Wizard69 (May 27, 2014)

Like you I've developed an interest in these machines but have yet to secure the funds and honestly I'm in need of other tools.   So I've been collecting stuff to eventually just make one of my own design.   Well one built out of the collection of parts I'm building up.  Mechanically the machines are very simple so with access to machine shop equipment you can easily build something out of your imagination.  




Tin Falcon said:


> There have been a fair amount of 3-d printers at some of the ME shows.  And I have a friend that has done some amazing things w 3d printer. . He is a retired college instructor. I need to stop in I drive by his house daily. I probably need to ask more questions.
> 
> 
> 
> A 3-D printer is a tool.  what you can do with it is only limited by imagination and the time and effort used to learn how to use it. what is the use of a mill or lathe in a hobby shop??


Actually that is mentioned in the context of anything CNC related.   People just don't understand the flexibility of CNC in general.   More interesting is the fact that 3D printing via methods other than extrusion are becoming very affordable and accessible.   Patents running out help this by making these machines more widely available.   


> IMHO 3-D printing is in the toddler stage. Past infancy but still in development.


At our end of the market that is certainly the case.   At the other end of the market you have NASA printing rocket parts in metals.  There is an incredible range of capabilities here.   


> Apparently these things will make toys candy chocolate wax patterns etc.
> 
> If a 3-D printer can make parts to build a 3-d printer there is potential.
> 
> ...




Well honestly you probably won't know until you have had the machine for awhile.   I've had a strong desire for a CNC router for some time too, it can be frustrating because you can't have both.   Well at least not without blowing your budget.   

As far as which one, the one you design and build yourself will likely be the most cost effective.   It isn't impossible and can allow you to leverage stuff laying around.   One thing to keep in mind is that you are not building a machine to cut anything (metal, plastic wood) thus there is no need for lots of mass.    The axis also move relatively fast so mass control is important in that regard.  This is also why uncommon building materials can often be used in the machines, Baltic birch ply for example is plenty stiff enough for a cheap 3D printer.   Further the Reprap folks use plastic where no self respecting machine tool builder would have ten years ago.   Keep in mind the application and alternatives begin to look far more feasible.   

There is a lot of appeal to kits but for most people in these forums they are awfully expensive considering we already have most of the machining capability required.   You look at many of the kits and it is like what is here that cost so much.  So maybe a look at your scrap heap might inspire you to see some of that stuff as a printer. Most(many) of these machines are belt driven so a good portion of your linear motion hardware is pretty simple.     In the end there are so many designs out there already that you have plenty of ideas to draw from. 

Just an idea here, I just hate spending lots of money for very little.   If DIY machine tools isn't your thing I can understand, but it is worth a thought.  You might be surprised to find what you already have laying around that could go to a 3D printer.  


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 3, 2014)

still pondering and saving money. 
Still tying to decide if I scratch build or buy a pre built. 
I need to also decid if if I need 1 head or two. I know the two headed monster allows for disolvable support.


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## RonGinger (Jul 3, 2014)

Recall I got a Solidoodle4 Just before I left for Cabin Fever, then I had both knees replaced in June, so I am just back to trying this thing out. My nerd grandson arrived a few days ago, about the time we discovered some broken plastic pats in the patio table my wife uses. Well, Solidoodle to the rescue. We measured, drew and printed 4 end caps that go on the metal legs to protect the glass top. They went together perfectly and the table is now on the deck and my wife is happy, at least briefly 

So, my first useful printed part. I have no idea how long they will last, the originals were killed by the sun UV. But they only took about an hour to print, so I guess when these fail we can just print more.


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## rodw (Jul 4, 2014)

Tin Falcon said:


> still pondering and saving money.
> Still tying to decide if I scratch build or buy a pre built.
> I need to also decid if if I need 1 head or two. I know the two headed monster allows for disolvable support.



Tin, I have not been game enough to put a 3D printer on my list of thing for the workshop....... 

I would go for the two filament one. In addition to supports, this would let you insert say white lettering into a black button for a machine or electronic device just like they do on quality keyboards....You'll think of other similar things you could do with 2 colours


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 9, 2014)

Hmm another Interesting Idea. I think I would have to build this one. 
do not think commercially available. It is a full sized 3 - d portable printer that folds into a briefcase sized case and fit into the overhead compartment on commercial aircraft not that I fly much.  But would make it easy to take to Model engineering shows. 


So has anyone ever heard of the Ben Heck  Show?? from what I have seen could easily be called the Ben Hack show. sponsored by element 14 as an infomercial series for electron heads. 

watch the video and tell me what you think could be doable and great for us folk with limited shop space. Store in a closet , set up on a table  print and store when done.   But I see no place for tool storage but not to fear as Ben Heck has designed and built a portable tool bench box for electronics work. And one still needs things like rolls of ABS or PLA to feed this tiny machine.  so the briefcase turns into 3 or four briefcase sized boxes when all is said and done.  Still More portable than an 18" cube just for the printer. 
Another Idea to ponder.  


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJndXebTG9I[/ame]
Tin


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## rodw (Jul 11, 2014)

Tin, this is an Interesting video as it shows how simple they are to make (if you have the tools like we do). I think I have enough steppers here that I scrounged a while ago, and a box of Arduinos, just have to sort out the base plate and extruder... maybe I should give it a go...


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## jschoenly (Jul 11, 2014)

I got a B9 Creator, which is much more pricey (hello used machines on their forum!).  Its a resin based machine and I liked that it was all open source.  If you really wanted to (and others have, one made an MDF version), you can download all the files and make one.  Still more expensive getting the projector and all, but boy it makes cool parts.  Also it uses an investment casting compatible resin that burns out nicely.  Here are a few recent casts I did including a few key chains of our little dog for the wife's birthday!

Takes a lot of tinkering and is not as useful for non casting related parts, but it's fun to have!


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 11, 2014)

> just have to sort out the base plate and extruder... maybe I should give it a go...



the heated borosilicate glass base you pretty much have to buy .  The Hot bed and glass plate are about $20 each. 

The extruder can be purchased or  you can make one  not real complicated. a stepper a pinch roller with spring you need a heater block with heater and thermosistor and you need to make or buy a nozzle. 

https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/3D-Printer-Component-extruder
Tin


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## aonemarine (Jul 11, 2014)

Jared, when are you going to polish those up?? LOL


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## rodw (Jul 13, 2014)

Tin Falcon said:


> the heated borosilicate glass base you pretty much have to buy .  The Hot bed and glass plate are about $20 each.
> 
> The extruder can be purchased or  you can make one  not real complicated. a stepper a pinch roller with spring you need a heater block with heater and thermosistor and you need to make or buy a nozzle.
> 
> ...



Thanks Tin.

I found them on eBay locally at about the price you said. Maximium size seemed to be 200x200mm (8x8").

I've got 2 x NEMA 17's (different sizes) and 1 x NEMA 23, a Gecko GX240 stepper driver and a few Arduino UNO controllers here. Repetier firmware seems to be the go. As you said, the extruders seem to be fairly simple to make.

So I am some steppers and a couple of stepper drivers short.

I know we like to be precise on this forum. Would there be any benefit in using ballscrews and linear rails on the axes? They are not that expensive and I can machine the ball screw ends. Machining the end of the ball screws should be a cinch if I had to. I did see one on Youtube made this way.


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## aonemarine (Jul 13, 2014)

This printer http://www.thingiverse.com/search/page:1?q=aluminatus&sa= is pretty nice, but unfortunately the company who built it is now defunct. It uses screws for all axis instead of belts and people have been mounting dremels to them to do a bit of engraving and extremely light milling. Have a look and tell me what you guys think...


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 13, 2014)

One option I have considered is a kit from sainsmart.  IIRC they are out of hong kong possibly mainland china. 
Free shipping to USA and Australia.

Looks like the same electronics that one would find in a plastic scribbler for about $250. yes still need to build the frame buy belts pulleys  guide rod linear bearings etc. power supply etc.  but an option. These guys have lots options  from a single board to an entire electrons package. 


Ramps 1.4 Mega 2560  3-d printer kit w steppers

IMHO a gecko drive is way overkill for a printer. 

the ramps board has a place for 6 drivers  keep in mind a 3-d printer  board needs to control two heaters as well as 6 motors. 
Just the controller  a mega 2560 ramps 1.4 and 5 plug in drivers will run about $60. 
Ramps contoler kit











My main hesitation of buying such a kit besides the time to engineer and assemble is the cost of all the extra parts.  Most the complete kits I have seen are not impressive and more money than a solid doodle.

Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 13, 2014)

This kit has even more for a little more money 

http://www.sainsmart.com/ramps-sd-a4988-lcd2004-2560-mechanical-mk2b-5-m-thermistor-0-4mm-nozzle-t5-fan-alumi.html

this one adds a few meters of timing belts. 5 pulleys  and extruder heater with nozzle  aluminum bed plate to mount the heater and a piece of borocilicate glass. 

FYI this stuff is shipped out of Mainland china to most of the world. they do have a warehouse in Germany.
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 13, 2014)

> The Best Advice I can give you, is find a hacker space in NJ. Most of them have a 3d Printer on hand. I would try it out first before shelling out money.



Interesting Idea but the only one almost close enough is in the planning stages. 
Tin


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## aonemarine (Jul 13, 2014)

Tin, your not that far from me are you? If you needed something you could just swing over. You are good company.

  I was reading/ researching and ran across this a few momnets ago. http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/...n-could-spark-a-second-3d-printing-revolution
  Maybe we should wait a bit and see what happens??


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 13, 2014)

I Have looked at the stl  print technology as well. the formlabs  form 1  printer package is about $ 3,300   the  material is $149 per liter they recommend buying in cartons of 4 to save shipping.  

so at least at the present time the cost of STL is about three times the cost of plastic extrusion. 

I may send a pm and make a visit I have a vacation week coming up. 

Do I need a 3-d printer probably not do I want one yes. I think at this time in my life it is probably better to buy one or buy a complete kit.  as I would rather spend the time learning to use it than spending a lot of time building. 
I am keeping options open for now  
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 13, 2014)

One of my hesitations of building a 3-d printer besides the time is the cost of parts fearing part cast could be near equal or exceed a commercial printer. 

As anyone knows who has shopped at McMaster Carr and other similar supply houses know little things like timing pulleys and couplers can add up quick.  IIrc it cost about $80 for such parts to convert the CNC lathe.  Thus my apprehension. 
So in search of affordable timing pulley I found this web page

http://www.robotdigg.com/product/index/page/1
yes out of china.
lots of 3-d printer parts ala cart. 

The prices look very reasonable  9.00 for a heat bed $ 2 pulleys. Drivers are $4.50. Shopping list t follow ?

Tin


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## aonemarine (Jul 13, 2014)

Tin,  I went thru the same thing when I was thinking about building a printer.  Finally I just bought a kit.
 No regrets.  I still might build one one day when I have more time but by then who knows what technology will be available. I still haven't even managed to get my cnc mill built.  Time to take some vacation time so I can finish up some projects.....


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 13, 2014)

Well I put together a shopping list  with no real plan. but a fairly complete list including linear rod and bearings and rod ends.  the total came to $275. so add in the other stuff and I am looking at somewhere around  $400 for parts to build one of these things. This lis includes kaplon tape a 400 gram 4 color pla sample a ceramic screwdriver for adjusting the drivers cable wrap . it does not include the power supply  +$30  motor mounts borosilicate glass and a few other things. 
so a similar prebuild would be something like $700  may be worth doing. 
Now I need to decide do I do a basic cube design with moving one piece extruder an eventor bot with remote drive extruder or a portable briefcase style. 

Prebuild not out of the running but $ 300 is a chunk of change time vs money hmm.and I still need to think about stuff like filament and Kaplon tape. so easy another hundred top of the 7. 


Tin


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## aonemarine (Jul 13, 2014)

The only thing I can think of to add would be dual print heads. One for the part and one for a disolveable support material. I have a couple of prints kicking my butt because ot the supports....


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 14, 2014)

thanks  that is one consideration of finalizing a plan . 
I am also thinking of a 150 watt ps  instead of a 120 +$20.... 

the last link has useful parts like end supports for $1-2 each so a couple extras for spares or design flexibility would not break the bank, I am concerned about shipping and a few items have min quantity. 
I get the feeling Sainsmart is geared more to the hobby/ first time builder robot digs more oem.


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## rodw (Jul 14, 2014)

Tin, this is an interesting controller board and the stepper controllers run cooler than the basic Polou which in my experience was an issue with missed steps, hence I bought a Gecko.
http://www.robotronics.com.au/web/products/rumba-3d-printer-controller-drv8825

This shop also has J heads and a better heater component for them than a simple resistor. This board supports 3 print heads and is cheaper over your way. I think I would go with the remote bowden extruder to get weight down if you go with multiple heads. I am still keen on ball screws. Feedback from a friend today keeping the Z axis travel level with dual steppers was a never ending problem as they would not stay in sync. He thought it would be better to run one stepper on the Z axis like he does with CNC mills.

I will think some more but wondered if the x and y were on a gantry running on a lead rail of some kind, driven by a ball screw and the Z ballscrew poked up in the air.
 And I found a third NEMA 17 in my shed today.... so I probably only need steppers for the extruders.


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 16, 2014)

Breaking news Maker bot Printers go on sale at the Home Depot. 

http://www.zdnet.com/makerbot-3d-printers-go-on-sale-at-the-home-depot-7000031556/


OK so it is a pilot program in a handful of stores .  but still interesting are these starting to go main stream.?


As I recall sears craftsman had a 3d cnc router in there tool line up but you had to buy each and every design it was not overly user friendly. limited envelope an a high price tag. 

Tin


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## aonemarine (Jul 17, 2014)

I admire the push forward, but at the same time I know how 3d printers can be fickle at times. IMHO 3D printing is not for everyone (atleast not with the current technology) this could be a make or break move......


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## jschoenly (Jul 17, 2014)

I saw this at another site:

http://www.slate.com/blogs/future_t...pot_gets_into_3_d_printing_with_makerbot.html

I have to agree with some of the very honest comments.  3D printers are cool and you can do some amazing things, but they are not like buying a desktop laser printer, not simply plug and play.  The comments they make about "not having a correct fitting, we can just print one" are comical to me.  FDM has come a long way, but it still generally ends with a porous and brittle version of a part compared to an injection molded item.  It will be interesting to see how this plays out.


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## aonemarine (Jul 17, 2014)

Jared, try the color fabb filament its much stronger than abs or pla, prints really well too.


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## jschoenly (Jul 17, 2014)

No FDM here for me.  A friend has one and I sit about 15 feet from a Fortus 400MC by Stratasys, but I just have the B9 at home...


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 17, 2014)

Color Fabb will keep that name in mind . looks like some neat product I checked out the web site and bookmarked. 

When one thinks about it we put some very high demands on everyday simple products. 


Tthe demands are very high for 3-d filament. We want strong but not brittle  . it needs to melt easily but cool quickly to a solid. we want it to flow easily out the nozzle but not sag run or droop once it hits the print bed or the previous layer. We want it to weld solidly to the previous layer without damaging the previous layer or cause it to move sag or droop. We are building many layers of round extrusion yet want it to become a smooth solid. 
The flow fill freeze cycle could likey challenge any student of thermal dynamics. 

we expect all this and more for something like $35 a kilo. 


Tin


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## rodw (Jul 17, 2014)

Tin, I have been beavering away with research too. I think I will go the DIY way if it becomes reality as the fun for me might be in making the machine! The Ordbot Hadron is a very interesting open source design that is high quality. This is just the frame and steppers and will be cheaper on your side of the world.
http://www.robotronics.com.au/web/products/ord-bot-hadron-mechanical-platform

It is made of Makerslide which is a cool open source extrusion that is designed for making 3D printers. There are a lot of accessories available to bolt it all together. 3D drawings are available.

Feedback from guys with CNC and cheap printers is getting the Z axis working well with two steppers is problematic as the steppers can get out of sync. So If I build one, it will be no holes barred.

So my current thinking For the Z is to use linear slides to move the bed up and down and a single 1202 Ball slide (12mm shaft, 2mm pitch) driven by a 400 step (0.9deg) stepper. This will give 5 micron accuracy without microstepping. If the ball screw is centred on one side of the build platform, a couple of rods and linear bearings might be added on the opposite two corners. 

I thought the X axis would be attached to the Z axis platform and the Y axis suspended from above.

I was trying to avoid using belts as keeping them tight to eliminate backlash is problematic but it seems that ball screws are a bit to slow on the X & Y axes. The other fast technology is to use a gear rack on the axis with a cog on the stepper as per the longitudinal drive on a lathe. I just don't know how much backlash this might add to the system or how to control it.  

The RUMBA board supports up to three extruders and the configuration shown has a newer stepper board that runs cooler (which I know is problematic from playing with the 4988 driver board)
http://www.robotronics.com.au/web/products/rumba-3d-printer-controller-drv8825

I was gong to use the opensource Bulldog XL extruder using a bowden setup that moves the heavy stepper assembly off the moving platform for speed (eg Bowden cable is like the throttle cable on a lawn mower)
http://www.robotronics.com.au/web/products/bulldog-extruder-xl

Once configured with the hot ends, this extruder path is quite pricey at around $250 each and I was up for around $1k for a single extruder model with roughly a 12" (305mm) cube as a build area.

Because I have a relationship with a laser cutter, I thought the frame would be cut from 2mm or 3mm steel plate. This would allow precise positioning of mounting holes plus add a bit of weight which has to help accuracy.

Hope that helps (or confuses)


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 17, 2014)

Yes I saw this early in my searching. 


http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/3d-printer-machine/3d-printer-mechanical-platform-no-controller

they have a full setup for $730. 
Tin


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## rodw (Jul 18, 2014)

Tin Falcon said:


> Yes I saw this early in my searching.
> 
> 
> http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/3d-printer-machine/3d-printer-mechanical-platform-no-controller
> ...



So now check out the extrusion it is made from. CAD files are there too.
http://makerslide.com 

If you Google this stuff, it is cool.


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## bbanfield (Jul 18, 2014)

In case you haven't seen this.  http://www.csmonitor.com/Business/2014/0715/Home-Depot-stores-to-begin-selling-MakerBot-3D-printers


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## aonemarine (Jul 18, 2014)

Us supplier of color fabb filament, and other printer parts.  http://printedsolid.com/
Maybe we can talk to them about a HMEM discount???


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 20, 2014)

well I did it now.  hope it was a good choice. I wanted to stay under $500 and I have so far anyway. Have been watching e-bay this weekend. 

I was watching a used davinci and an eventorbot kit. And I bid on a used solid doodle 4gen now I am hoping it works and is packaged well. will find out in a few days.

 Guess I need to buy some filament. 
Dave what do you suggest I start out with? 
Tin


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## rodw (Jul 21, 2014)

Great to see you did it. Keep us posted with how you tweak your new baby and show off some samples.


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 21, 2014)

Hope everything works out the photo posted is the one posted on e-bay so have not had a chance to touch test etc. 
the seller states it appears to be new condition other than thee tear in the kaplon tape.  So a new chapter in the life of tin falcons nest. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 21, 2014)

software downloaded. And I have been browsing the help section of thSD web site.

Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 22, 2014)

1 roll basic black colorfabb PLA ordered. 

Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 22, 2014)

Well guys this thread has been a blast. thanks to all who have contributed. 
I have learned a lot in my research. 
and I know this is the beginning  of the adventure not the end. 

I think I will be happy with the solid doodle The one downside I see is the board is one piece not plug in drivers. the advantage of the plug in drivers is you blow one you spend 5-10 usd to pop in a new one but they seem to be a Little sensitive , I expect the SD driver card to be more robust. 

Soliddoodle seems to offer a good amount of tech info videos and help screens. the official stance is it cant be upgraded to a dual  extruder. sounds like a challenge. but for now I just want to learn how to print with it. 




for anyone wanting to build an eventerobot there is a guy selling kits on e bay the one last sunday went for the minimum bid of $450 plus IIRC about $60 to shio. almost everything to build a printer power supply not included so add another $30 to 50 on the build. e-bay seller eventorbot. 
there is a guy tadd sale in Florida that is selling dent and bent Davinci's  they have been selling for $150 to  $300  . 


I hope others have learned from this thread. 



So am I ending this thread? likely not still more to learn and new things all the time. 

I may start a new thread when the printer arrives. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 23, 2014)

OK now it is is morning and i am almost awake  I am asking myself and others Should I be starting with ABS. 
the manufacturer states ABS recommended pla possible. 
I know abs and some other materials can be vapor polished and chemically welded. Hope I am not trying to run before I walk here. 

I think part of the problem is the hardware folks are by nature forced to concentrate on hardware tweaks /improvements.and the material guys are always looking for a better material or bled. So the printer  manufacturer often does not really know materials. 
the plastics developers can test only so many print heads and the printers  r& d can only test so many materials.
Tin


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## RonGinger (Jul 23, 2014)

I have the solidoodle4. I have used it a bit and find the only real problem is keeping the work stuck to the bed. I find PLA sticks better than ABS. I added a glass plate on top of my bed, and I have tried hair spray on the glass. About half of my ABS prints curl up on an edge, which ruins them. The larger the object the more likely to curl.


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## rodw (Jul 23, 2014)

For those who have been following and are considering building their own, I found another open source build platform similar to Makerslide mentioned earlier. It is called Open Build V slot.
See http://openbuildspartstore.com/

This is also available in Australia  http://openlab.com.au/

If you join the openbuild forum, you can download CAD models (including Solidworks) for every component.

It is a bit cheaper down under than Makerslide and a wider range of components is available plus heaps of videos on youtube.

I had to go to my plastic supplier today so I could not resist picking up a metre of 25mm dia Acetal (Delrin) rod and deviated past my bearing shop on the way home. The plastic cost $10 and is enough for 60 or so wheels. The bearings were $5 each because the only ones they had in stock were SKF brand. With a bit more searching, I am sure I can get them for $1 a piece. I've got some hex brass that will do for the eccentric wheel spacers.

Anyway, I thought I would have a go at making some wheels based on their plans. I figure I have to plan out the job so I turn up a set of 4 or 8 at a time so they are all identical dimensions which I can use as a matched set on a given axis. I thought I would turn all the v  shaped surfaces first, cut the first bore, part each one off and finish off the bore on the reverse side.

I also finally got around to firing up a Nema 23 on my Arduino via a Gecko 10 x micro stepper and it leaves the little polou driver for dead! I am not sure If I will get any more, but I thought I would use the bigger stepper and the Gecko on the Z axis as there is more weight to move.

I still have no idea what a DIY home made printer will look like yet, but it would be cool to say you machined every part! Hopefully it will have a build volume of 12" x 12" x 12"

I think I will blame Tin and this thread for the $20 I wasted today...


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## Swifty (Jul 23, 2014)

Rod, I have ordered cheap bearings off eBay in the past, they were only small ones, but around 60cents each.

Paul.


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 23, 2014)

got back to the office today and my printer was there.  brought it home. unpacked looks good. one of the adjusting nuts had popped off so had to reassemble that. and no power supply . am I surprised. NO. the listing said no accessories I guess the power supply is considered an accessory. so off to solid-doodle to order a new one. 
and drop shipped the order to  printed solid so there is filament everywhere on the floor.  So will not have my filament til next week.  Looks like no test prints this weekend. 
the cost of a replacement sheet of Kapon form SD is $ 20 not going to do it. a 8 x 8 x1/4 borosilicate glass from McMaster Carr $25  I will probably go for it. 

Tin


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## rodw (Jul 23, 2014)

Swifty said:


> Rod, I have ordered cheap bearings off eBay in the past, they were only small ones, but around 60cents each.
> 
> Paul.



Paul, Thanks, in a lot of 10, this listing comes in at 26 cents delivered (for 625ZZ 5mm IDx 16mm OD x 5mm Wide)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-PCS-R...faultDomain_15&var&hash=item1e8bc11cd3&_uhb=1 

I'll see how I go making the wheels





The dimensions are metric but they must have used imperial units hence the really odd dimensions. They have another design that adds a V slot on the flat    of the wheel so it will run on a V rail  as well as the slot but this one just rides in the V shaped channel which is what I want.

Here is the other one


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## aonemarine (Jul 23, 2014)

I will have to look up the soliddoodle printer.  What nozzle size does it have, and does it have a heated build platform?
You are better off with the borosilicate glass. Just use elmers glue stick for a bonding layer with the color fabb. with abs you need to make yourelf some juice.
The first layer is the most important, if your printer isn't properly calibrated to get that first layer stuck you will have all kinds of problems.


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 24, 2014)

.4 m nozzle.
looks like I need to order the glass. yes yes heated platform.
Lookes like this unit a little used outline of what looks like nuts on the kaplon tape. 
Tin 
And thanks for the help.


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## aonemarine (Jul 24, 2014)

Tin,  Matt @ printed solid said if your near by you could swing over and he would give you a sample pack of filament to get you started while waiting on your order. Hes only 15 minutes from my house.


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## hacklordsniper (Jul 24, 2014)

Just a small comment, i have much better adhesion to simple, cheap glass with simple water washable paper gluestick. I also bought an expensive borosilicate glass and it does not work so good. So before spending money, just buy simple windows glass. After printing, put glass in fridge for 2-3 minuttes and print will remove itself


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 24, 2014)

A1  have playing phone tag With Matt. We finally connected  I work only a couple minutes from the DM bridge so will connect with him after work  tomorrow. 

HLS may try the window glass. but have the MC catalog number in pocket. 
the power supply is on its way. One way or another should be pretty much together by Monday. 
again thanks for the help and encouragement. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 26, 2014)

OOOOH the wait. 

Power supply will arive Monday. Argh. In the mean time decided to try the window glass and picked up binder clamps hair spray and stick glue as well leveled the bed and  set the z limit to park the nozzle 0.060 inches from the bed plate per mats suggestion. A small roll of pla in hand. from Printed solid. 
Downloaded a couple files from thiniverse. 
Tin


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## rodw (Jul 26, 2014)

Tin, It must surely be frustrating. I have all but given up buying second hand tools on eBay because invariably there is always something wrong or misdescribed.

I guess I better stop posting about building on a shopping thread but this is what I achieved.






You can see I set the drawing up so the grooves could be cut with an SNMG 90 degree tool and then be parted off in exactly the same position after centre drilling. 

After parting off, I held the parts in a collet chuck with a collet stop to cut the bearing seat. I found I had to seat the bearing before cutting the seat on opposite side as the stop was too small a diameter. I used a boring bar that came with my boring head to cut the seat as my lathe tooling was too big for this kind of work. The bearings were hard to get out, so I only cut seats in one wheel.

There were two problems I encountered with this approach. 
1. The turned diameter was not constant.
2. Getting a reference point exact again after changing tools to part off.

So the wheels shown are probably good for drawer runners etc but maybe not for precision liner parts without shimming etc.

I had a bit of a play afterwards with the tool memories in my DRO and finally worked out how they worked. I think if I can get them sorted out, I would get more accurate and repeatable results by changing tools on the DRO, cutting one wheel at a time and making a custom back stop for the collet chuck that engaged with the outer edge of the wheel.

I will say the Acetal (Delrin) was nice to machine in comparison to the HDPE I usually use.


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 26, 2014)

> Tin, It must surely be frustrating. I have all but given up buying second hand tools on eBay because invariably there is always something wrong or mis described.
> 
> I guess I better stop posting about building on a shopping thread but this is what I achieved.



Rod  I blame myself as much as the seller. He could have mentioned there was no power supply . He DID say no accessories. I did not notice there was no PS in the photo.  On the plus side the unit was packed in the original carton with original packing.  and so far one missing screw that needed to be replaced. And a couple parts had fallen off the machine but were there. 
e-bay and auctions is one of those times when you need to stay objective. Get caught in the excitement and one can pay too much or miss details I missed a $50 detail it cost me. 



Say the word and I can breakout your build posts into a new thread. 

and my shopping thread has turned into getting a used machine running thread. . when I get power I will likely break off into a new thread as well and add some things I learned about what is out there to this thread. 
Good bad or indifferent I hope people have learned from this thread  , and the choices I made. As well as the various advise given. 


Part of my logic was getting started  and  not spending to much time on research.  there comes a time when one has to stop the talk and start to walk. Looks like you are walking. 


Again thanks to all who are helping in this journey. I know there are a bunch of guys with these machines and not a lot of talk about them. 
I know it is an additive process and not metal removal but CNC and Something found more and more in the home shop. 5 years ago a reprap kit was about 1 k and looked like scaffolding on the side of a building. The technology is changing. 
IMHO there is lots of research to be done with materials. And I have been told the software has come a long way but still much room for improvement. 
Tin


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## Wizard69 (Jul 27, 2014)

rodw said:


> Paul, Thanks, in a lot of 10, this listing comes in at 26 cents delivered (for 625ZZ 5mm IDx 16mm OD x 5mm Wide)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is just a guess but I don't see the dimensions as odd.  What would be a press fit in steel wouldn't be so secure in Delrin.   That and holding dimensions on Delrin is difficult, especially on drulled or bored parts.  


> Here is the other one




Their approach with these rollers strikes me as strange.    The roller idea itself is fine, what I have a problem with is where it runs.   Maybe I'm nuts here but it would make more sense to me to run a V notched roller on a corner of an off the shelf extrusion.   I haven't tried this yet but you would get longer life in my estimation and your linear bearing would end up stiffer.   It probably doesn't matter on a extruded type machine but if you wanted to use the same machine for light routing like with a dreamer I don't see good results with these hearings.


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## rodw (Jul 28, 2014)

Wizard69 said:


> This is just a guess but I don't see the dimensions as odd.  What would be a press fit in steel wouldn't be so secure in Delrin.   That and holding dimensions on Delrin is difficult, especially on drulled or bored parts.


Agreed that the bearing seat needs to be undersized and that dimension works well but most of the other sizes are direct translations  of imperial dimensions in 64ths 32nds etc.


> Their approach with these rollers strikes me as strange.    The roller idea itself is fine, what I have a problem with is where it runs.   Maybe I'm nuts here but it would make more sense to me to run a V notched roller on a corner of an off the shelf extrusion.   I haven't tried this yet but you would get longer life in my estimation and your linear bearing would end up stiffer.   It probably doesn't matter on a extruded type machine but if you wanted to use the same machine for light routing like with a dreamer I don't see good results with these hearings.



That is exactly the difference with this profile. There  is a bolt on rail (Open Rail) that fits standard T slot extrusions which you can use with the  wheel with the V slot, or you can just run the same wheel in the V slotted profile. I just chose not to machine the V in the wheel as it would not be used. Availability in Australia is also an issue. Apparently, the Makerslide extrusion with built in V rail is very easy to damage in transit which is also not an issue with this extrusion.

I think however, I will not perserve with this hardware and look at using precision slides and ball screws.  Some newer builds are using these and they greatly simplify construction. One down side is they are about 10 times slower (4mm a rev vs 40mm) but when I see the quoted travel speeds for printers, ball screws are still in the ballpark with my steppers maxxing them out at about 1500 mm a second. Speed could be fixed by using some gears).

If you want a different approach, Google SLA printers which use an overhead data projector to solidify a complete slice of an object in a container of resin where the beam is focussed.


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## Tin Falcon (Jul 29, 2014)

WOW and thank you to all who have supported me in this crazy endevor to trek out on the adventure of 3-d printing. 

first of all my wife who does not hassle me to much for chasing the silly dreams and for looking out for my interests. 
secondly to DKSGROUP e-bay seller out of Bufaloe NY. 
my wife let the e bay seller know my printer came with no power supply and I had to buy one to use the printer .  the seller gave a partial refunt that covered the cost of the PS and shipping. If all e-bay sellers were so honest and cared that much about customers. 

Dave who has offered much advice and communicated with Matt from soliddoodle. And matt fromm solid doodle. and of course to all hear who read and poted to this thread.  Test print No 2 in process.

tin


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 5, 2014)

Timing is everything isn't it. ? After owning  my solid dooodle 4  for all of two weeks SD Has now dropped the SD2 and  3. And they have announced three new inits  the press aimed at the plug and play home market current  price $399 and will rise to $499. the workbench boasting a 12 in ^3  work area aimed at the serious Maker  priced at $1,299 and the apprentice at $799. all three new units have auto level and the two maker units IIRC dual head. The SD4 is now $599 and another addition to the line is solid care a 1 year warranty repair replacement plan. 
Tin


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## aonemarine (Aug 5, 2014)

Having fun with the printer??  Love to see some pics of your first prints.


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 6, 2014)

Yes having fun been busy !!
Not avery good pic but what I have ATM.
Tin


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## aonemarine (Aug 6, 2014)

Looks like some pretty good prints.  Yep your hooked! LOL


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 6, 2014)

And now the newest 3 in 1 machine a combo 3d printer  mini/micro mill /router and a 3d scanner.


http://fabtotum.com/
Pre order price  of $999 in kit form  +100 for the assembled version.
expected delivery Sept 2014
this stuff is just busting loose..


A1 the first prints had some first layer issues. then I got the blue printing well then tryed running the color fab black . always having to rethink . But am having fun and I expect a roll of filament cheaper than a night at the bar. Do not do bars much.
Tin


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## AussieJimG (Aug 6, 2014)

I am following along with interest as you lead us into the future. Thank you Tin.

Jim


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 7, 2014)

Thank you Jim for that compliment. It was a privilege to chat with at CF maybe we can do it again some day. 


One of the quetion I have heard is what can one do with a 3-d printer . IMHO here is a great example. A guy comes home and finds the garage door opener not working. Investigation reveals broken connector between the motor and the drive mechanism.  Connector is plastic part with 8 slot/rib internal spline  Ok if you have a shaper or slotter and a rotary table not a bad job but tedious. but with a 3 d printer design and build in less than an hour while you drink coffee or grab a sandwich.
Link here. 

http://www.soliforum.com/post/62449/#p62449

Tin


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## aonemarine (Aug 7, 2014)

I got one for you.  I was in the middle of casting up some parts for a job that needed to be shipped out on monday and the coupler on my vaccum pump failed. I tried zip tying it back together (yea that all most worked) and then thought you dummy theres a whole spool of couplers up stairs. So I went and modeled the part, printed it, and was back up and running in a couple of hours.


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 7, 2014)

wow that looks familiar!!



...... and best buy is selling ABS filament. 

Tin


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## aonemarine (Aug 8, 2014)

> ...... and best buy is selling ABS filament.



  No kidding??   Well im heading to the store to check it out!!


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 8, 2014)

It may be on line only and you have to key in the correct words but it is there . best buy is selling through E-BAy
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 9, 2014)

Anybody buy filament from these guys?  http://www.justpla.com/index.php?route=common/home
Price looks good includes shipping. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 9, 2014)

Marlin a USA manufacturer of extruded PVC used for spiral notebooks retools to put them self in position to be the premiere USA manufacturer of PLA for 3-d printers. Company has been in busness for 12 years launches new pla line. 

http://precision3dfilament.com/

Ok more checking  Best buy does sell filament but looks like the local stores do not stock yet. Online ordering only and 5-7 days ship to store.

On the other hand Micro-center Actually stocks printers and filament the filament reasonably priced.
Closest for me St Davids PA 30 and off 476.
You may want to check it out Dave. 



Tin ]


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 21, 2014)

On the way ti kinzers I stopped by the St Davids Micro center And Picked up a couple rolls of pla . They have a nice selection of hobby electronics 
I had to ask fo th PLA I wanted but was in stock as advertized.
Tin


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## AussieJimG (Aug 22, 2014)

This thread will be primary source material when the bug finally kicks in. Thanks Tin.

Jim


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 23, 2014)

Well friends I have had the Soliddoodle4 for about a month now. 
and solid doodle has just revamped the lineup.
The sd2 and SD 3 are discontinued and replaced with 3 new options. 

http://www.solidoodle.com/
And the current retail on the SD 4 is now $599 .

Initial impressions the machine is fun to use. 
as you can see successful prints after some learning. 
The fact I have built a couple cnc machines and ran one for a year somewhat helpful the Idea of leveling the bed similar to tramming a mill but easier. and the z home swithch needs to be adjusted as this is critical to the first print layer. 

The machine:
Appearance., the sd4 is a basic box style printer that gives a great first impression from its professional made looking case. most of the case is steel painted black and the door is injection molded plastic. 
Mechanics. the basic setup of the SD4 is the same as the makerbot. But the materials are a little different. the SD4 bed plate holder is formed from sheet aluminum vs injection molded plastic on the MB. single motor screw actuated. z axis in the back of the machine. the scew is a 60 deg srew acme as found on the better machines would be an improvement. The Z stop adjuster is a good sized thumb wheel . The bed plate is a heated aluminum plate insulated underneath and leveled with three wing nuts. The 6 mm guide rods support and guide the 3 axis. (2 each) these are held in the frame by simple steel collars .The X and Y axis are powered by nema 14 motors and the Z and Ext ruder are nema 17 . I expected 17s all around but not a big deal. 
X and Y axis are driven by timing belts. seem to work fine as long as tension is kept in adjustment.
The extruder is a simple deal but easy to change filament. a toothed pulley drives the plastic a bearing pushes against the plastic via a spring loaded lever. Press the lever to change /installl /remove filament. As with many of the reprap cousins there are many 3D printed parts used to assemble this machine Sd does not offer the files to print replacements but these are available through forums and thiniverse. 
As with many / most hobby level entry level machine there is lots of room to upgrade


Things I have learned. All movements are in reference to the tool I should know this x and y is easy a -Z will shove the pint nozzle into your part an ruin it and twist the x axis guide rod. no harm just adjustment. 
after a stupid crash figure out what moved adjust what moved not something else. 
x axis twist easy to detect and adjust with a level. If your software is showing something that looks like a partial blue screen of death DO NOT HIT START !!! this will also case a crash as the software just lost its mind . reboot the software and start with fresh g code. 

Some experts say that mainstream home 3d printing is 5 years away. That may be true before we see a plug a n play reliable affordable home machine.

I am a life long learner and my home shop is like a university engineering lab. I want to learn new technology and experiment. 
And sometime it is just as important to know what does not work as well as what does. 
Tin 


. I may still build one more to my liking but I wanted needed a starting point. a base line if you will without spending a grand on a makerbot. 
__________________


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 23, 2014)

CHP posted this link in my something to doodle with thread. 

http://www.structur3d.io/#discov3ry
This is touted as a major discovery. 
In fact people have been exploring and building and trying to sell a variety of 3-d printers. 

Form fill filament  is just one technology.

another technology is using an injet printer to print a binder on plaster powder one layer at a time then dipping the part in Ca or epoxy to finish it. 

SLS selective laser sintering uses powdered metal as a base and a high power laser melts the selected are together. 

STL stereo lithography uses a laser to selectively cure a liquid polymer. Or turn the monomer into a polymer. though selective heating. 

the paste extrusion method above is another viable option. 
there is company in England selling a 3D printer for decorating cakes and other food.  
I see a future with refrigerated 3d printers and chilled bed plates for printing chocolate and Ice cream.  


I see numerous articles of 3-d printed organs and body parts still experimental but there could be a future of  3d printed organs for transplant.  

NASA and GE are using the technologies to make metal parts for the aerospace industry.

The one caravat is sometimes it is hard to separate the true breakthroughs from the dreams the hype and the gadgets. 

So more than one technology competing and complementing,like I said earlier in the toddler stage. What will it look like when it grows up. will it thrive or fail.

IMHO a lot of R & D is going into this. So an ever changing landscape I think 3-d pringing will be a big part of manufacturing in the future. And like computers the applications are near endless. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Sep 6, 2014)

Well folks with over a hundred posts to this thread and over 6000 reads  I decided to keep this thread alive. 
And I intend to post information pertinent to home shop 3d printing and info that may help  someone choose or use a 3d printer.  

One of the really nice add ons or features of the better 3d printers is stand alone printing. the bad news is this not a feature to be found on a printer with a price tag below about $700 . Some printers that are open source can easily be upgraded   with off the shelf add ons to give a small led display and an sd card slot. 

The other advantage to stand alone is that motion control  benefits form a dedicated computer. laptops and even desktop computers that are on the net and multitasking can interrupt motion control. 

So the good news is that With inexpensive off the shelf components I can add stand alone  printing /remote control/remote /monitoring to my 3d printer . 
So the list of needed items:

1) raspberry Pi model B or B+
1) case for pi
1) 5v usb power supply with usb to micro usb power cable
1) TV or monitor with HDMI input 1) Hdmi Cable 
1) Wireless or usb keyboard and mouse
1) powered USB HUb
1) class 10 (recommended) SD card or micro card depending on rpi model 
1) web cam 
1) wireless dongle  or wired Ethernet connection for the printer. 
1) last but not least a copy of the octoprint program to run things open source  software. http://octoprint.org/

The great news is I have most of the things on the above list.

FYI It seems this software will work on a beagle bones black as well but the Pi seems more popular and easier to set up and I own a raspberry pi that is not getting much use. 

Tin


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## RonGinger (Sep 6, 2014)

Using a Pi is not really standalone, its just using  different computer. Most of the printer board based on arduino boards can have a graphics pannel added to make it a real standalone. The graphics boards are under $20 and should just plug into the arduino, unless other wires or connectors interfere. Then you just load an SD card with the file, plug that into the board and go.

RAMPS  is one of the most common control boards. Here was the first link google found for a full kit, with the graphics card. I'm sure some digging will find the graphics card alone.


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## Tin Falcon (Sep 7, 2014)

Back to what can I make with a 3d printer?

here is a cool answer . How a bout one of these. The below photo a scale model of a Ducati 1199












Lots more photos  here:

http://www.redicubricks.com/3d-printed-ducati-1199-superbike-on-the-ultimaker/




The other question I get is how strong are the parts . 

The answer depends on the material used to print 

ABS not particularly strong but is stable withstands heats fairly well for a thermal plastic
PLA a lot stronger but can warp in the heat of a hot car in summer  and will biodegrade in the heat moisture of a composter. 
In a nutshell the early popular materials  are not the best for real functional parts. 

colorfab XT was developed to change this. 
made with  Eastman Amphora 3D Polymer it is a tough ,strong material that is temperature resistant chemical resistance, fda aproved for food contact styrene and PBA free and low odor in processing. 

With all the material options available nylons, elostomers' cabon fiber .... 
yes one can print functional parts. 

For anyone wanting to build this model  the STL files are HERE   https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ducati-1199-superbike-complex#!design-documents





Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Sep 7, 2014)

> Using a Pi is not really standalone, its just using different computer. Most of the printer board based on arduino boards can have a graphics pannel added to make it a real standalone. The graphics boards are under $20 and should just plug into the arduino, unless other wires or connectors interfere. Then you just load an SD card with the file, plug that into the board and go.



I have the SD4 not sure what board it uses do not think it is ramps. I have heard there is actually an sd slot in there not sure if there is a connector for a display and controller. Have not taken the cover off to look .

I suppose I could use the pi and access it with a cheap wifi tablet. 


Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 6, 2014)

Sept 28 went to the http://enablingthefuture.org/ 3d printed Prosthetic conference amazing things happening.  Anyone with skills can join, a 3d printer helpful. Met many great folks and drooled on the Ultimakers on display. 

Dremel has anounced a 3d printer. http://3dprinter.dremel.com/ it is a relabel/ remix of the flash forge dreamer. These will be sold though home depot and amazon to start with.


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## AussieJimG (Oct 7, 2014)

It just keeps getting better Tin, thank you.

Jim


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 1, 2014)

OK the newest or one of  the newest models from Soliidoodle is the "PRESS" ok as in printing press but I took print shop in high school and know a printing press makes an impression by pressing the ink covered letters or the print roller against the paper. This machine forms a 3D image by extuding or squirting molten plastic first on the print bed then on the previous layer. SOO should this not be called the Squirt ??? Hmm just sayin'.  


And I am still pondering my own build. 
And I found this e-bay seller http://stores.ebay.com/folgertechnologiesllc/_i.html?rt=nc&_pgn=2&_ipg=48
That I may start picking up parts from. 

And another answer to the question what practical use does a 3D printer have look here. A guy using it to make Printed circuit boards. 
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20141031-3d-print-yourself-an-affordable-and-flexible-circuit-board.html
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 5, 2014)

```So how big is 3d printing right now? 
big enough for Army Technology Magazine  to dedicate an entire issue to it. 

http://usarmy.vo.llnwd.net/e2/c/downloads/352196.pdf
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jan 9, 2015)

Thought gus might like this. and others as well. 

http://www.3ders.org//articles/20141225-startup-uses-3d-printing-to-preserve-singapore-rich-cultural-history-through-3d-prints.html
Tin


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## aonemarine (Jan 10, 2015)

Im window shoppiing for a 3d printer right now. Im particulary interested in the sla printers for thier high resolution.  This one in particular has really cought my eye    http://www.fsl3d.com/ 
  Ive been researching and im not quite sure if I want to push the button on one just yet. All the sla printers seem to be haveing some troubles when it comes to larger prints.  FSL3d is working on a new "super vat" that will do away with the pdms layer.  Maybe once they get a few out there and I see some feed back I will push the button, but for now I think my best option is to sit back and wait for the technology to improve.


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## Tin Falcon (Jan 10, 2015)

Seem like a lot of new offerings on the sla  printers and cheaper than some of the higher end consumer filament machines.  I have been looking for deals on a flashforge but so far all the ones I have seen are more than I want to spend right now. I am still thinking about building from scratch. and am having a bit of a love hate relationship with the solidoodle 4 . Some days frustrated with it other days I have fun with it.  So for now hanging in and moving forward.
Tin.


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## Tin Falcon (Jan 16, 2015)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Folger-Tech-Kossel-2020-RepRap-Full-3D-Printer-Kit-RAMPS-Dave what do think of this kit. 




I guess I am shopping for a second one. But trying to be patient and wiser than my first move . but no real regrets I am learning printing and having fun. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Jan 18, 2015)

For anyone who has read though this thread or at least read the beginning you know one of the first 3d printers to catch my eye was the xyz Davinci.  
These are a popular unit in the $500 range.  and they certainly have there quirks. 
If anyone out there is thinking of buying one I suggest you go to you tube and watch this guys videos.  

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsdc_0ZTXikARFEn2dRDJhg

IMHO a realistic view of what to expect from a . DaVinci.  Apparently a capable machine if you are willing to learn tune make some easy fixes and learn the limits of the machine. 
Tin


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## Wizard69 (Jan 20, 2015)

aonemarine said:


> Im window shoppiing for a 3d printer right now. Im particulary interested in the sla printers for thier high resolution.  This one in particular has really cought my eye    http://www.fsl3d.com/


Interesting machine.    It is nice that hardware costs are dropping but sadly the resins are a killer.  The resins are hazardous too in most cases.  


> Ive been researching and im not quite sure if I want to push the button on one just yet. All the sla printers seem to be haveing some troubles when it comes to larger prints.  FSL3d is working on a new "super vat" that will do away with the pdms layer.  Maybe once they get a few out there and I see some feed back I will push the button, but for now I think my best option is to sit back and wait for the technology to improve.




If the tech improves at the same rate FDM printer have you likely will have a short wait.


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## Tin Falcon (Aug 22, 2015)

Still looking 

this kit:

http://folgertech.com/collections/3d-printer-full-kits/products/folger-tech-kossel-2020-full-3d-printer-kit
Is still a possibility .
It has been upgraded with aluminum connectors for the corners  . I would lily want to upgrade other parts to aluminum as well. the effector, slide connectors and mounts. 

Dave you still loving your Kossel ? the print area on this kit is 6" diameter I would like a little larger .  Decisions!!
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Sep 11, 2015)

Remember in one of the early posts of this thread I made an offhand comment about mounting a hotend/extuder to the spindle of my mill. 
Somebody has done it. 


http://www.3ders.org/articles/20150910-fastraxs-3d-printing-attachment-transforms-cnc-mills-into-3d-printers-now-on-kickstarter.html

Still do not regret getting a standalone machine. 
Tin


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## Wizard69 (Sep 12, 2015)

Tin Falcon said:


> Remember in one of the early posts of this thread I made an offhand comment about mounting a hotend/extuder to the spindle of my mill.
> 
> Somebody has done it.
> 
> ...




You are likely far better off with a standalone machine simply due to wear on the ways/bearings.  That and 3D printers like to go really fast.  Of course for light use on small items this approach would be OK.


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## littlelocos (Sep 28, 2015)

I finally broke down and bought a 3D printer.  After looking thru way too many options, I ended up with a demo model of the Lulzbot Mini.  This was based on good reviews, high-resolution printing, self-calibrating/leveling, self-cleaning, multiple material options, and open-source design and software.  (You can even go to their site and download all the info and STL files needed to build your own if you choose to go that way.)

Just purchased last night, so I'll have to follow up with what I end up with when it arrives.

Second runner up was the Maker's Tool Works MiniMax kit (as the MendelMax 3 is out of my price range.)  Both look like outstanding printers that will stay accurate for a long time.   www.makerstoolworks.com 

I still love the elegance of the Delta designs and may eventually build one of those as well.

For now, I plan to print masters for my foundry patterns with it.  

Todd.

Littlelocos Model Engineering


These two are workhorses currently on eBay.  (Also runner-ups in my search over the weekend.)
Lulzbot TAZ 3  (refurb from a dealer)  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lulzbot-TAZ-3-3D-Printer-/301752284942?hash=item4641d6770e

Lulzbot AO-101 (purchased and lost interest)  A swarm of these can be seen on the Lulzbot headquarters tour video on YouTube, making bots.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lulzbot-AO-101-3D-Printer-/121772749644?hash=item1c5a38b34c


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## littlelocos (Oct 3, 2015)

Hey Tin,
Have you checked these guys out?
They also have aluminum corner upgrades and a lot of options for each kit.

http://www.ultibots.com/mini-kossel-v-slot-3d-printer-beta/

http://www.ultibots.com/kossel-250-v-slot-3d-printer-diy-kit-beta/

Look like some pretty-well thought out kits with some very nice hardware.

Enjoy,
Todd.

(My "new" demo unit should be here Wed.)


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 4, 2015)

Thanks for the link. 
Interesting. 
The old wanting champagne on a sodapop budget. 
Want a $ 1200 dollar printer for $500-$600 but   have probably spent$ 550 in time looking searching and waiting . 

truthfully may end up building from scratch. Want something faster than most what I have seen and Ideally an 8x 12 build platform. I have been looking for deals on a flashforge . will see.

the lulzbots look nice a prusa with a more stable frame. 
And I have considered a prusa kit and build a frame/ enclosure around it. 
Also have considered  rebuilding upgrading the SD4 but not until i have something else running. 
Let us know how you make out with the new shop addition. 
Tin


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## littlelocos (Oct 5, 2015)

Tin Falcon said:


> Thanks for the link.
> 
> truthfully may end up building from scratch. Want something faster than most what I have seen and Ideally an 8x 12 build platform. I have been looking for deals on a flashforge . will see.
> 
> Tin




Tin,
This one fits your size bill and could be machined from aluminum on your equipment rather than spending $$$ on the full kit.  Appropriately named:  Hackerbot 2.0.

https://opensourcehardware.it/en/61-hackerbot.html

https://github.com/OSHW/HackerBot/releases/tag/2.0

You may need the free Solidworks reader software to read the CAD files, but it should be all there.  

Enjoy,
Todd.


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 6, 2015)

Thanks todd I downloaded and extracted the files and downloaded sw file manager. Have been looking at the design. 
Tin


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## ultibots (Oct 6, 2015)

littlelocos said:


> Hey Tin,
> Have you checked these guys out?
> They also have aluminum corner upgrades and a lot of options for each kit.
> 
> ...



Todd & All -

Thanks for the kind words and interest in www.UltiBots.com. We are a family owned business providing 3D Printer kits, components, and filament. Great support, product quality, and quick shipping are our goals.

As an incentive to try UltiBots, I have enabled coupon code HMEM for 5% off your next order. The coupon is valid through October 14th.

Please call 772-257 one thousand or email sales )at( ulti bots.com with any questions.

Happy Printing!
Brad Norman
Owner - UltiBots


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## littlelocos (Oct 7, 2015)

I received the Lulzbot Mini yesterday and printed a couple of rough test prints.  Much better having switched to the finer settings.  Material is 3mm Taulman N-Vent running at 230C, 60C bed, 180microns, 50mm/sec, w/ 20%fill.  Of course, printing a 2"-tall Yoshi.  Print time was 90 minutes.

It's hard to believe that it will print as tight as 50micron and up to 275mm/sec.  We'll have to try that another time (and not at the same time, I'm sure.)

Looks like we had some trouble with the supporting material under that left arm.

So far, I'm very happy with this one.
Enjoy!
Todd.

p.s  The eBay seller, jtrevino, apparently still has some of these and is selling about 1 every day or two.  I'm not sure where these may have come from, possibly returns or ??  The build date on mine is June 30, 2015.  I will be replacing the PEI bed layer ($25) and have adjusted the coordination between the Z-axis drive motors.


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 11, 2015)

This interesting a bit tempting even. 
Thinking of putting my name on the list. 15mm  frame a little Light ? 
Core xy design inexpensive kit. Hmm http://fusebox3d.onlinewebshop.net/fusebox-3d-printer/
tin


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## Draw-Tech (Oct 11, 2015)

Hi Brian
Bought a Rostock Max 2 Kit, can't say enough about how good this machine is. Building the kit helps to fix problems, that might take a tech. I have been printing now for about 6 mos. I have learned to scale the parts so close you can push a bearing into a seat. I intend to print my knucklehead motor. The build on this machine is over 10" in diameter, and 14" high. Kit $999.00 worth every penny. The support of this machine is like no other that I have ever encountered. I have attached a sample of a print, in it's just printed state and after several hours of making it pretty.
Jack
Draw-Tech


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 3, 2015)

And yet another option to consider. As many of you know the early Makerbots were released open source. As such the replicator 2 has been manufactured under several names by several manufacturers.And at various price points.  Flashforge being the most solid of the clones and CTC being a cheaper version. This well known design is once again re released in kit form by  Folger Tech





$349 US for a single extruder $379 for dual extruders 
Again this is a kit and assembly is required it also features a ramps arduino controler and marlin firmware not  the mighty board and replicator G
So this this would run with RH and slicer or cura. 

http://folgertech.com/products/folger-tech-cloner-3d-printer-kit

Another option to think about. 

Tin


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## aonemarine (Dec 3, 2015)

you know...I think I might actually order one. Thats a really good price...


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## Tin Falcon (Feb 19, 2016)

For better or not  I just ordered one of these.     





Folger Tech Prusa 2020

Now that I have had  a 3d printer for about a year and a half and read about the many upgrades that can be made and  installing modding changing firmware I am ready for some nuts bolts and bits and bytes work.  But I really am not liking the tear my only working printer apart to rebuild it better approach. 
I am already planning upgrades for the kit I purchased aluminum block bearing holders for the bed and have the parts for a full ED3 ready to go .I see myself adding aluminum braces  to the tower.  I see this kit as an inexpensive learning lab. Then I will decide if the next step is  a scratch build or rebuild around the Solidoodle 4 . 
Tin


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 19, 2016)

Tin Falcon said:


> I see this kit as an inexpensive learning lab. Then I will decide if the next step is  a scratch build or rebuild around the Solidoodle 4 . Tin



Hi Tin 
if you are interested I have the full set drawing, pdf,electronic, 
all you can think to build one of these.

cheers 

View attachment Hackerbot.PDF


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## Tin Falcon (Feb 19, 2016)

Certainly something to think about


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 19, 2016)

Tin Falcon said:


> Certainly something to think about



I can pm it to you
or put it the the download section


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## barnesrickw (Feb 22, 2016)

Just looked that up.  That sounds like the way to go.  When do you start, because I really want to follow this build.


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## Tin Falcon (Feb 22, 2016)

Rick Are you referring to MY kit ? 
I am Hoping to build it next weekend .
So you want a build thread?
I just picked up the kit. They seem like really nice people and say please ask questions if you need help they seem real eager to please , help and support their customers. 
Tin


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## barnesrickw (Feb 22, 2016)

They have a good Facebook page too, and yes I'm asking about your kit.  Again, I'm not sure what I'd do with it, but I really want one.


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## Tin Falcon (Feb 22, 2016)

Rick the 3d printer is just another way of making things. It is additive manufacturing rather than material removal. 3d printing s a lot of fun. it takes some time and commitment to climb the learning curve. Building a kit will help understand how a printer is build. People are making, modding and repairing many things  with the process it is often and intermediate step. And can be used for pattern making.  
You can download the build manual firmware and software before you even commit to purchasing a kit.  If you like I can start a build thread.  And it seems you are interested. 
It seems they are very eager to offer tech  support as well. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Feb 28, 2016)

After a long weekend the I3 2020 is almost completed and working . A few glitches but mostly successful. And probably a few bugs to work out.  it is together . The firmware installed all axes moving the heaters heat etc. the extruder is sitting on the bed. And the lcd needs a case and needs installation .

I did not take time to do a build log. I will get more info up when I have time. 
Tin


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## barnesrickw (Feb 29, 2016)

Does it have axes because of the logs.  Grammar police. &#128110;


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## Tin Falcon (Mar 13, 2016)

After to weeks it is actually printing. Probably still needs some adjusting.
Tin


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## L98fiero (Mar 16, 2016)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Hi Tin
> if you are interested I have the full set drawing, pdf,electronic,
> all you can think to build one of these.
> 
> cheers


 
The CAD files are all in Solidworks and I can't open them with Geomagic Design, is there a way to either read them with a viewer or get them as iges or step files. I tried getting into their site but couldn't get past the home page


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## Tin Falcon (Mar 18, 2016)

You can download the free solid works viewer . Or if you are a veteran SW has a program you can get an educational license you have to send them a copy of discharge papers/proof of service and $20 . and yes Canadian vets are eligible.
Also for those feeling out of the loop on the plans, the links , to download is listed on post #122 a couple pages back. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon (Apr 24, 2016)

For all you 3d printer fans  ED3 has just introduced a new extruder to go with the famous V6 and V6 lite hot ends. 

Can be an easy upgrade or not depending on what printer you have. 


Tin


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## Tin Falcon (May 22, 2016)

New Folger tech FT-5 Kit 300 x 300 x 400 build area  linear rails MKs 1.4 controller, 2004 lcd standard . I am so tempted . 






$499 + sh

https://folgertech.com/collections/...s/folger-tech-ft-5-large-scale-3d-printer-kit


I have been pondering a scratch build but this printer is very much along the lines of what i have been thinking. And a lot faster to source faster to build and likely not more money in the long run. 

This looks somewhat similar to the hackerbot. but some significant improvements. Up until this year I have been seeing rods for guide surfaces the new trend seems to be linear slides. 
the other cool thing with this kit is it seems a bit scalable in that the build size could be scaled down to an 8x8 or 8 x 12 heat bed  and add a second extruder.  Also looks like some sort of cnc head is in development for this kit. 

Tin


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## RonGinger (May 23, 2016)

I have just put down some money on a new kickstarter project. It sounds to cheap to be possible, but the gambler instinct (very low in me) kicked in. If they can deliver for this price its a good deal

Looks like the forum rejects the image I tried to post here. 

The kickstarter is called 101 hero. Sorry I cant post the link here


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## canadianhorsepower (May 23, 2016)

RonGinger said:


> []



is this what you are talking about 

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lKiYKeDyyzQ[/ame]


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## Tin Falcon (May 23, 2016)

If the price of 3d printers  goes the way of laser printers the price will drop. 
I had a laser printer years ago the price was a grand for a whopping 300 dpi resolution  I saw a laser  on sale the other day for a hundred. 
Tin


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## aonemarine (May 28, 2016)

Tin Falcon said:


> New Folger tech FT-5 Kit 300 x 300 x 400 build area  linear rails MKs 1.4 controller, 2004 lcd standard . I am so tempted .
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I ordered on the other day. Will let you know how it works out.


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## Tin Falcon (May 28, 2016)

> I ordered on the other day. Will let you know how it works out.


Ok I am just slightly jealous, well maybe a lot. It does look like a nice printer. 

The SD 4is doing fine pretty much stock and I have been printing a lot with the  FT prusa 2020.  
The FT5 is what I have dreamt about more or less..  

And congratulations on another printer. 
Tin


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## Wizard69 (May 29, 2016)

Tin Falcon said:


> Ok I am just slightly jealous, well maybe a lot. It does look like a nice printer.
> 
> The SD 4is doing fine pretty much stock and I have been printing a lot with the  FT prusa 2020.
> The FT5 is what I have dreamt about more or less..
> ...




That FT5 is very impressiVe for the price.  I've got to get working on a printer build, right after I finish all the other projects and work a bit of overtime.


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