# old tractor LANZ HP 4WD 1923 (scale 1/4)



## ZAPJACK

Dear all,
I'm really disappointed because I want to be more active on HMEM, but not yet retired and have "only" 28hours in a day.
I start a very exciting model build in Germany by JT-modelle (Tobias & Klaus)
Don't hesitate to take a look on www.jt-modelle.com
Quality castings in Cast-iron, Aluminium, Zamac, folded steel profiles, internal-gear, etc...
Two stroke engine, differentials, reductor, clutch, gearbox, it's a very complete kit.
I wil also keep your attention about the "5 stars" "after-sales" service.
LeZap
Detailansichten 2.pdf


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## ZAPJACK

I start the kit with the machining of the wheels. at first, the flanges from bar-stock aluminium foil. After that, machining in steel the diabolo form bearing holder. Four time the same. Start the assembling of the spikes, rims, everything with copper rivets and rivets-gun.
The supplier for the rivets-gun and the rivets is www.ateliermb.com in Switzerland.
Regards
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Here is the riveting of the pads on the rims.
General view of the spikes when painting
détails of the wheels and the four wheels together.
Amazing that the small wheels are on the back side of the tractor !
LeZap


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## Herbiev

Looking great so far. Thanks for sharing.


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## dozerdroid

Thank you for sharing, I'm going to enjoy this one.


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## ncoonen

That looks like an outstanding model. The video clip on https://www.jt-modelle.com/ is very intriguing. 

Is the kit sold by jt-modelle.com or somewhere else? I did not see any kit information on their website. 

Please keep us posted with your progress.


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## kadora

Hello ZAPJACK
Is possible to buy this kit ?


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## wirralcnc

Count me in for a kit


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## ZAPJACK

Dear, of course is possible to buy a kit.
Please contact directly jt-modelle in Germany.   mailto:  [email protected]
they speak english 
Regards
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

The aluminium casting block is aways a problem, because there is no flat side
And you need to check to have, at mins, two faces flat and square at 90°
Boring is also a challenging job, because it's a long bore with vibration risks for the tool.
There is an idea of tooling made from 20mm silver steel and HSSCo cutting end.
I made also a jig of the opposite side to avoid the vibrations. The result is quiet good with an error of 0,05mm (0,002")
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

The cylinder is coming from GGG60 Iron-steel, nothing special to made it, just the transfer port are inside
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

The connecting rod is made from aluminium bar-stock.
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

P34 is the raw machined half crankshaft
P54 is the mounting jig. this is to have the same centering on both half crankshaft
P55 machining the crankshaft
P56 all the parts before assembling
P57 hot assembling by expansion
Regards
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

The motor blok is quite complicate for machining
Need to respect the orthogonality of the difference axles.
Many checks, measurement, zéro setting .....before machining
But I let you discover by the pictures
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Some other picture of the engine bloc.
On a sinus-table is much more easy
LeZap


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## johnmcc69

Nice work! That's going to be a real nice model.

 John


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## ZAPJACK

First blank mounting of the crankcase
Machining of the cylinder-head on a centering jig
Piston made from cast from cast iron
LZ


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## ZAPJACK

This is the oil pan & oil pump.
Not truth but simply factice
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Now, one of the flywheel in cast iron
LZ


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## ZAPJACK

This is the front differential housing.
Must be machined carefully, because there is no "second chance"
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

98 Front axle boring
99 Hooke's joint bearing
100 Alignment set-up
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

This is the machining of several gear train (Modul 0.7 - Z12)
And inside of the differential
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

machining the differential housing. It's a basic spur gearing differential
At first, centering with a centering microscope and with dial test indicator.
Finally, machining carefully
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

114 & 115 is the finished differential body
116 is the rear differential housing. The steel axle is for the zero setting and to be sure that all the axles are perfect square
117, 118 & 119 are the rear axle bearing. Again, I often use steel axle for zero setting and square fitted 
LeZap


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## neil_1821

That’s some impressive work! I imagine it’s quite useful being able to cut your own gears. Keep the pictures coming


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## e.picler

Congratulations LeZap!
Impressive work. I observed that you use the boring head as facing head, I have never thought about that, very clever. I have learned one more skill.
Good pictures too!

Tks,
Edi


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## natalefr

AMAZING 
Look here http://digilander.libero.it/liguori/


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## ZAPJACK

Again a complicate parts with lot of "zero setting" 
How can I qualify this kind of job? with the boring head.
Is it "external boring" ??
LeZap


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## johnmcc69

Very nice!

 John


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## ZAPJACK

This is the articled join (articulated tractor) and the universal join
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

This is the articled joint housing. Again, with lot of Zero setting, controls, ....
LeZap


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## bobden72

Great job I will be following progress.


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## FKreider

Wow great work, cant wait to see the progress on this!


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## ZAPJACK

Here is the frame on the jig
No any stress during the TIG welding. 
But welded carefully, one time on the left side and one time on the right side
LeZap


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## Cymro77

Whawwwww!  that is some incredible machining.


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## ZAPJACK

Next steps of the frame. Polishing the welded zone.
It’s after finishing that I understand the high importance of all the sizes, angles, …
There is lot of measurement on the gear box, differential, front axle, frame pivot, all angles are so important
Don’t forget, it’s an articulated 4WD type tractor.
This is the reason why I work very carefully and slowly
There are three secrets to have success: we must measure, measure and measure again
LeZap


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## almarghi

Beautiful work. Congratulations!


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## BIGTREV

Superb work


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## ZAPJACK

After the frame and fitting accessories on it, here is the muffler
completely coming from bar-stock in middle steel.
After machining, the parts are completely polished.
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Now the intake cover from bar-stock and the gasoil fuel-cap
First blank mounting
LeZap


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## Gordo

Beautiful work and some interesting set ups. Keep up the good work.


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## ZAPJACK

Some other pictures
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Still running ! but fitting takes a lot of time
Here is the four half dive shaft.
and the mess on my workshop
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Here is the blank mounting of rear axle. Included: differential, Hooke's joint and frame pivot.
The last pictures are the machining of hexagonal inside hole.
LeZap


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## Brian Rupnow

Zapjack--that rear axle assembly has spurred a memory. Back in the 1930's and 1940's you could buy an "Autotrack" kit to convert an automobile to a tractor. There were two very large steel wheels with an internal ring gear on them, and a separate axle for those wheels to mount on. Also provided in the kit were two small pinion gears which mounted to the original car axle. The car body was removed, and the car's rear axle mounted to the frame without springs. The separate axle for the large steel wheels mounted to the frame far enough forward of the car axle that the pinion gears on the original car axle mated with the large internal ring gears on the wheels. They had awesome power, but you had to make a large box and attach it to the cars frame and fill it with rocks to get traction to the wheels. They had so much torque that a few people were killed when the rear wheels hit an obstacle that prevented them from turning and the car chassis "walked" right up the internal ring gears and flipped over backwards crushing the driver.----Brian


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## OldRon

Brian Rupnow said:


> Zapjack--that rear axle assembly has spurred a memory. Back in the 1930's and 1940's you could buy an "Autotrack" kit to convert an automobile to a tractor. There were two very large steel wheels with an internal ring gear on them, and a separate axle for those wheels to mount on. Also provided in the kit were two small pinion gears which mounted to the original car axle. The car body was removed, and the car's rear axle mounted to the frame without springs. The separate axle for the large steel wheels mounted to the frame far enough forward of the car axle that the pinion gears on the original car axle mated with the large internal ring gears on the wheels. They had awesome power, but you had to make a large box and attach it to the cars frame and fill it with rocks to get traction to the wheels. They had so much torque that a few people were killed when the rear wheels hit an obstacle that prevented them from turning and the car chassis "walked" right up the internal ring gears and flipped over backwards crushing the driver.----Brian



Those conversions were sold buy Sears, Roebuck and Company.


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## ZAPJACK

Thanks Brian for those informations.
Really amazing kit's
I translate it in french and publish on local forum.
Regards
LeZap


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## LorenOtto

ZAPJACK said:


> Here is the blank mounting of rear axle. Included: differential, Hooke's joint and frame pivot.
> The last pictures are the machining of hexagonal inside hole.
> LeZap
> View attachment 106422
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> View attachment 106424
> View attachment 106425
> View attachment 106426
> View attachment 106427
> View attachment 106428
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I have just stumbled onto you build and am very impressed.  You do beautiful work and I will be following your build.


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## ZAPJACK

After lot of troubles for the machining of the small 14-tooth gear (chain driven) the last was the good one
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Now the cast iron flywheel and clutch.
To get a maximum accuracy, center in bronze is machined together with the flywheel
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Next step of the clutch lever bearing
Complete from bar-stock
Regards
LeZap


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## k2steve

That is one neat crazy universal mill, What is that?
Great looking work!


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## ZAPJACK

Raw parts from barstock
Failed one
Finished one
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Here is the machining of the clutch pads. It's not a centrifugal clutch, but drive by hand-lever.
The Ferodo is made from leather.
LeZap


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## bobden72

Nice work, almost identical to the clutch arrangement on my Case traction engine I built.  Keep the pictures coming.


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## ZAPJACK

Some view with blank mounting
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

All the parts are first sand blasted before painting
coat of primer, two coats of RAL7031 (grey) and a finishing coat of two component varnish
LeZap


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## johnmcc69

Very nice work! Looks like the full size machine!

 John


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## MADJACK

Beautiful work!


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## ZAPJACK

Hello there,
There is the picture of the finished tractor.
Engine run, not like I will, and everything is OK: Clutch, differentials, brake, sterling wheel, ...
There is some original picture from real one. The original stay at John Deere museum in Mannheim (Germany)
Enjoy the pictures
LeZap


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## FKreider

Wow, beautiful work!


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## johnmcc69

Outstanding! Beautiful craftsmanship!

 John


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## kuhncw

Very nice work.

Chuck


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## ZAPJACK

other comparing pictures
LeZap


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## ZAPJACK

Some other pictures
Regards - LeZap


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