# Essex Caloric Engine Build



## vederstein (Apr 29, 2018)

Now that I've completed Rudy K's open column steam engine, double sized and with cast components it's on to the next project.

If you remember I did Rudy K's engine double sized because I'm not a real fan of making tiny, fiddly engine parts.

So, at the NAMES show I purchased the half scale Essex Caloric (Stirling) Engine from Little Locos.  Wouldn't you know it:  It's full of tiny fiddly bits!







So be it.  I'm only going to document the parts that are/were difficult for me.  Nobody needs another picture of a shaft getting turned down or threaded.  On with the build...


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## vederstein (Apr 29, 2018)

I have some tooling on order for this engine, so I needed to start with parts to which I already have tooling.  The connecting rod seemed like a reasonable pain in the butt to start with.

First I made a fixture plate to which I bolted the barstock.  This allows flipping the part and maintaining locations.




After indicating in the plate centered on the four jaw lathe chuck.Second I turned down the barstock for the webbing.  This required several flips of the part.








The print calls out the webbing cut to a 3 degree angle.  I used a angle adjustable combination square to fixture the plate to the angle.  This way I can flip the part and maintain the angles.  So when I screw up and my cut is off, at least I can be off consistently.








After that the ends needed rounded, the holes reamed to size, and oil holes drilled.








And after two-three hours of work I had a conrod.  I had one boo-boo when the mill grabbed the part, but life will go on.




...Ved.


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## Blogwitch (Apr 29, 2018)

Hi Ved,

Myfordboy also does a casting and build set for this engine, just a little more refined.

http://myfordboy.blogspot.co.uk/p/the-essex-hot-air-engine.html

I think this engine has a full build sequence on Youtube, so it might help you with a few of the risky setups.

I have bought myself a set for his Aermotor, very reasonably priced and he ships rather cheaply to anywhere in the world. The castings that I received are the best castings I have ever handled, despite him doing them himself at home.

His site is well worth a visit if you are looking for something different.

John


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## vederstein (May 6, 2018)

Next up are the cylinders.  There is a 1" OD stainless steel tube that gets pressed into the castings.  The tube is really the cylinder, these castings are heat exchangers.

The castings are pretty good, so I felt confident just clamping them into the 3 jaw lathe.  The process was facing, drilling, reaming, boring the index pilot, then flipping and facing the opposite side.

I purchased a 1.000 reamer for this operation.  I'm none too happy about the finish of the bore and why a new, never used reamer would not give a smooth finish.      Luckily finish really isn't that important.
















Then off to the mill.   The hardest part here is clamping and indexing the castings.  I used a 1/4" rod as shown in the photo.  This way I could calculate the centerline of the reamed hole.  Then I could face off the base and drill the mounting holes.







That's it for today.

...Ved.


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## vederstein (May 19, 2018)

The piston is a strange beast and being made of cast iron can be either a good or bad thing.  Because piston fit is critical, I put in a new carbide insert in the turning tool.  The piston has two diameters so I did those in the same set up.






The piston is then bored to two diameters.  Based on the way I started, I had to flip the part in the lathe chuck to do the larger bore.
















Then to the mill for drilling out the wrist pin hole.


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## vederstein (May 20, 2018)

Regenerator/Displacer Parts!!!!

The displacer end caps looked like a never ending source of frustration and failure.  Given the age and quality of my machines (and my abilities), I thought these would suck to no end.  Amazingly I got them on the first try.

I chucked 1.00 dia brass barstock in a 5C collet then chucked that into the four jaw lathe chuck.  From there I could index the part center then offset .257" for the air passage holes.  With the offset part, I drilled the .344" diameter holes.  In actually my Chinese 5C collet set isn't symmetrical, so I had to  re-index to center every time I rotated the collet holder.









Then I switched up to the three jaw chuck and turned to the proper OD.  After that I turned down the nipple.









There is trepanning operation to which I don't have tools.  I _do_  have a carbide ID O-ring cutting tool.  It was close enough to the print requirements that I used that instead.









From there I drilled out the center and tapped #5-40 per the print.  Then I could use a parting tool to cut off the part.









The second part was made on the same chunk of barstock with the same steps.  After both were created, I chucked them in the lathe reversed to cut off the extra bit from the parting operation.









Thus I quit while I'm ahead...

...Ved.


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## nautilus29 (May 20, 2018)

Wow nice job!  Hard parts to make with a limited setup, but you found some nice work arounds.


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## vederstein (May 20, 2018)

Thanks for replying.  I was wondering if anyone was watching this thread.

If anyone is remotely aware of "The Cathedral and the Bazaar" will understand that Internet forums, chat rooms, Facebook, open source software, etc. all rely on feedback, positive feedback.  All people are narcissistic even if they don't realize it.  (e.g. when looking a a photo, most people will try to find themselves first).

It takes effort to create these build logs.  If there's no feedback it may not be worth it and the forum will die.

Thanks again.

...Ved.


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## deverett (May 21, 2018)

I've got a set of Myfordboy's Essex castings gathering dust in the attic.  I'm watching your progress and it may give me the impetus to get off my backside and do something about getting the dust off them.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## vederstein (Jun 3, 2018)

Well, I screwed up.  Part of the piston assembly is a cap silver soldered to a brass tube then secured with Loctite to the cast iron piston.  My soldering skills aren't great, but I got there.  Where I screwed up is that the thin walled tube pulled out of the lathe chuck ruining the part.






So after contemplating life, I decided to try again with a solid piece of 1" diameter 360  brass.  I turned it to the proper length then turned the OD to size.










Next I drilled and bored out the center.  This was no so easy because the final wall thickness is very thin and I kept losing position on my boring bar.  The cutting tool would move and my dial on the lathe cross feed would stick.  So it was a lot of small cuts and trial fits until I was satisfied.
















In the end I got there.  The bore isn't near as nice as I'd like, but I believe it's functional and it's hidden inside the engine anyway.  That's enough for the day...











...Ved.


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## rlukens (Jun 3, 2018)

Ved, I, along with many, enjoy your efforts. Creativity is the mainstay of a true machinist. Nice work.


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## vederstein (Jun 3, 2018)

Thanks .  Is that an Austin Healy Sprite?

Cute car.  My money pit is a 65 Corvair.


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## deverett (Jun 6, 2018)

Looks like a Triumph TR3A.   Great cars in their day, but couldn't quite do the 'ton', even if there were suitable roads.  A 2 litre modified tractor engine powered them.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## vederstein (Jun 10, 2018)

Anyone that has the plans for this engine and is following this thread probably knows that I'm jumping all over the place.  In no way am I starting with the first drawing and continuing in order to the last.  I look at a part and decide if it's something I'm willing to tackle for the day.  So today the crankshaft looked like a challenge worth attempting.

Expecting to screw up at least once, I used a piece of 1" leaded cold rolled instead of the CRS supplied with the kit.  This way I expected to use overall less material.  First I turned the part to the proper OD (.875") and square the end.











Then I drilled/reamed the bore.   I broke a center drill.  (Crap!)  The drawing calls out .188" for the final bore.  I don't know why it wasn't .1870" for a press fit, but it didn't I followed the print.  In the end, the material supplied in the kit didn't press fit into the bore.  So it was the old dimple the shaft and red Loctite route.






I don't see why this part couldn't have been a simple disc, but it wasn't.  It's counterbored then a comparatively large internal 45 degree chamfer.  I don't know why it's designed that way, but I went ahead following the prints.  In this process I found a piece of HSS that I could use as a boring bar.  I used the same HHS bar for machining the chamfer.  Chatter was of the order of the day.  Oh well...











The print calls out for a .125" diameter "ring groove" on the outside diameter.  I guess it was used on the full sized machine for a belt or something.  This detail had me scratching my head for some time.   Before I started the build I looked for a carbide tool ground to a .125 diameter.  No luck.  Theoretically I could ground a piece of HSS for the profile.  But I know that I'd have a snowball's chance in Hell for that to turn out ok.  So after finishing the part to size, I transferred the part to the mill and set up my rotary table.






Once the part was indicated in, before I tackled the groove, I drilled/reamed the .093" hole for the crankshaft throw.






Then I rotated the rotary table and used a .125" endmill to create the groove.  I'm sure this isn't a "sanctioned" way to do this, but it worked for the tooling I have available.











This one little part took about three hours.  Therefore enough for the day.

...Ved.


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## jimsshop1 (Jun 10, 2018)

Hi Ved, I'm watching your progress and am amazed at the ways you come up with for holding parts. We all can learn something from posts like this so please don't think it is a waste of time. I'm still very much an inexperienced model builder even though I have a couple steam engines that run well and I managed to get 2 Hit-Miss IC engines completed and running all from bar stock. I haven't worked on any cast engines yet but am going to the Cool Springs Museum swap meet this Friday and may come home with a casting kit of some kind. Keep on posting your build as you are doing a fine job!

Jim in Pa


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## vederstein (Jun 12, 2018)

I wish I could make an IC engine.  My previous attempt was disastrous.  I could never get the poppet valves to seal.

At some time in the future I'll try again, but I'm still intimidated about putting in all that work/effort only to fail.

...Ved.


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## vederstein (Jul 4, 2018)

Ok, I've been away from this thread for a few weeks.  Hey it's Summer and there's other things to do.  Anyways today I did get some shop time for two parts.  The first part was a cylinder cap which was entirely a lathe part.  Not hard and no pictures taken.  The second was the Crank Stand, and it was a head scratcher.  It's an aluminum casting with no obvious starting or grabbing point.




So after some thought, I figured facing the base would be the best course of action, so eyeballed the part in the lathe and cut away...







Then off to the milling machine.  I still had my setup from the crank disc which means my rotary table was still installed and indexed in.  Not that if I didn't have this already set up, I may have worked on this part an entirely different way.

So I chucked the part into the rotary table and used a combination square to get the thing "square" with the table.  (Ok I eyeballed it, but it's the best as can be done with the tools available).






Then I drilled/reamed the crank journal.






The drawing calls out specific distances off the center of the casting to face off the front and rear ends of the crank journal.  To do this I indexed off the edge of the rotary table chuck and lowered the tool for the cut.  Then I rotated the part 180 degrees and machined the other side.










I'm running out of picture allowance.  So I'll finish this part in a subsequent post...


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## vederstein (Jul 4, 2018)

Crank Stand Concluded....

I loosened the vise and placed the rotary table facing up.  This way I maintained squareness for drilling the mounting holes.  In actually, something got off because my first hole wasn't centered.  So it's not a perfect part, but then none of my builds are perfect...  And that concluded the day's work.


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## vederstein (Jul 8, 2018)

At this time I thought I was far enough along to see how the engine fits together.  So I made the wooden base plate out of maple.  As usual, not everything went to plan.  The crank bearing spacing was off, so I placed it where I thought it should go, marked, & drilled the holes in the plate.  So I have some extra holes in the plate.  I'll probably need to make it after I'm done, so I'm considering this plate a prototype.

I found that the piston was a little stiff in places, so I made lap with a piece of oak roundstock.  In the end the piston move fairly smoothly but there's a bit of sticking at the end of stroke, top dead center.  Does anyone have suggestions on how to cope?  (The bore is 0.920" in diameter).

...Ved.


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## littlelocos (Jul 9, 2018)

Hello Ven,
I'm just finding your series in the last week or so and will continue to follow along.  Great job so far!

The piston fit is absolutely critical to the engine running well.  I use an expanding lap purchased from McMaster Carr.  Here's the link to the 1" diameter lap.  Turn the OD to closely match the ID of the cylinder sleeve and then lap with a fine grade lapping compound.  I use the oil-based Clover lapping paste.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#4548a29/=1dmzjt4

I'm happy to support and respond to any questions you or anyone else may have.

Enjoy!
Todd.

Todd Snouffer
Littlelocos Model Engineering
www.littlelocos.com


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## vederstein (Jul 15, 2018)

A thanks to Todd Snouffer for the link.

Continuing on with the build....

The prints call out some spherical ball end joints for the displacer rod.  Alas, I don't have a ball turner.  Therefore I went as far as I could as shown below.   Because these parts (at least for me) are tiny I knew there'd be no way I could hold a cut to length round black for the milling operations.  Therefore I turned the parts on the two ends of the provided barstock.  This way once I was at the mill, hopefully I could stay at the mill.







 Then placing the blank into my rotary table, I could locate, drill the holes and mill the side flats...






Then I parted off the end to length.






Then back to the mill. I turned the rotary table 90 degrees then rounded the end.  This is a potentially dangerous setup and I recognized the risks and mitigated.  When doing this, up-milling is critical so that the part doesn't grab into the mill and take your fingers with it.  My fingers did not become a piece of stock for the endmill to cut. 






A little filing to smooth the edges and I'm calling these parts done (Yes the parts have two difference hole diameters)...


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## vederstein (Jul 29, 2018)

Ok, it's been a few weeks since I've posted anything about this thread.  It's not that I stopped documenting it, it's that it's Summer and there's other stuff to do.

Continuing:

The plans call for an approximately 4" long x 5/32" dia rod to be turned down to 1/8" for about half the length.  My 81 year old lathe doesn't have either a steady or following rest and there's no chance of my tooling making this part as designed.

So I went for a built up shaft.  As shown in the following pictures, I reamed out the 5/32 rod to .125" and made a separate brass piece of 1/8" rod.  After machining both pieces, I used Loctite 620 high temperature locker to hold the two shafts together.














While the Loctite was curing I continued on with the  Displacer.  The prints call for a piece of fine mesh lapped together into a cylinder and the lap held together with JB Weld.

Cutting the piece to size was easy enough with a straight edge and and utility knife.  What I was unsure of was how to hold the lap together while the JB Weld was curing.  After some thought, I found a piece of 7/8" diameter rod in the parts kit.  I used this to wrap the mesh around.  I then secured it with some masking tape.






After removing the rod, I could unlap the cylinder from the inside and apply the JB Weld.  To (hopefully) get the part to the proper, "cylindrical"  shape, I temporarily assembled the displacer ends and the displacer mesh onto the displacer shaft.  That was it for the day...


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## vederstein (Jul 29, 2018)

It's a few hours later and I removed the masking tape from the mesh.  The results aren't perfect but serviceable.


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## deverett (Aug 1, 2018)

I like your regenerator for this engine.  I might see if I can incorporate it into the Myfordboy version when I get round to it.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## littlelocos (Aug 1, 2018)

Ven.  Great job on the regenerator.

Thanks Dave.   That was one of my changes from the original design and what ultimately got my prototype running.  Happy to answer any questions about the design or what's going on there.
Todd.

Littlelocos Model Engineering
www.littlelocos.com


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## vederstein (Aug 19, 2018)

I have the lap and lapping compound on order.  So in the mean time I worked on the furnace.  But first an aside.

Part of this hobby is discovering new and novel ways to screw up.  When I pressed the castings onto the center cylinder, I never gave the furnace any consideration.  The press is so tight that if I tried to disassemble it, I'm sure I'd ruin the tube or worse.   So I needed to recover via modifying the furnace design.

The furnace started with the top casting.  I drilled/counterbored the flue socket per the print then flipped the part and bored the socket for the furnace body.  It was pretty easy and machined well.
















Then I needed to clean up the outside diameter.  This was a bit tricky because there wasn't a good way to hold the part.  So I put the part onto the furnace body and _lightly  _clamped it into the lathe.  I don't have a six jaw chuck so if I chucked to hard, I'd deform the brass tubing.

I used a live center to press the assembly axially and this was the significant clamping force.  I thought I was taking light cuts, but even then the tube spun a bit in the chuck.  (I didn't notice this until I removed it from the lathe).  Other than the light marring of the brass tube, the setup worked well.  I'll buff out the marks later....






...Ved.


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## vederstein (Aug 19, 2018)

On to the furnace body....

After some thought, I realized that I must deviate from the original design because the furnace is pressed onto the shaft at the same time as the finned castings (no longer feasible).  So the idea is to split the furnace into two sections across the centerline of the center tube.  The issue was then how to secure the two sections together.

I created an aluminum sleeve to press fit onto one of the two sections.  The OD was critical, the ID not so much (at least I hope so...)











After splitting the furnace body into two sections at the centerline of the tube, I pressed the insert into the smaller portion (just happens to be the upper portion).






 I thought I could complete the work in the mill so after indexing the tool to position, I began to progressively drill the assembly.  I soon realized I didn't have the tooling to complete the job in this fashion  So back to the lathe.  After indexing in the center, I bored the hole to 1.000in as shown tested with a piece of 1" barstock.  In actually, I am a couple thousanths over, but I can't put the material back.
















Then back to the mill to cut the slot for the flame.






And that's the assembly until it's time to assemble the entire engine.  Eventually I'll need to split the two sections.  When I do, I'll file down the excess aluminum insert material so that it can go over the center tube.






A day's work concluded.

...Ved.


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## littlelocos (Sep 1, 2018)

Ved,
Nice work!  Great job on the work-around for the furnace. 
Todd.

Todd Snouffer
Littlelocos Model Engineering
www.littlelocos.com


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## deverett (Sep 3, 2018)

Too late now, Ved but what you could have done to prevent crushing your brass tube is to insert a slug of some metal, or even wood that was a nice fit in the bore.  Masking tape wrapped around the slug to improve the fit if it was loose.  
Also wrapping masking tape on the outside where the jaws bear on the tube could have prevented damage by reducing the chance of slippage .

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## vederstein (Sep 4, 2018)

deverett said:


> you could have done to prevent crushing your brass tube is to insert a slug of some metal, or even wood that was a nice fit in the bore. Masking tape wrapped around the slug to improve the fit if it was loose.



Yeah, hindsight's 20/20 although it should be better than that.  The marks buffed out decently though.

I do have a question about descaling the burner.  I've looked online and found several concoctions for descaling.  Does anyone on this forum know of an effective and easily obtained formula?


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## deverett (Sep 4, 2018)

Have a look at this link, Ved:
http://eirny.com/2013/06/03/removing-copper-surfaces-from-your-brass-or-bronze/

Let's know if it works for you!

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## Rickl (Sep 4, 2018)

Top job Ven. I like your initiative. Looking forward to seeing the end result.

Rick
Sth Australia


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## fcheslop (Sep 5, 2018)

Citric acid available from most chemists or home brew shops
I used to use an American product Scale Kleen it came in 1kg bags and was just citric acid
It may leave the brass a little pink but it usually polishes up fine failing that vinegar and peroxide


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## vederstein (Sep 8, 2018)

I tried the 3:1 mixture of H2O2 and Vingear from Devertt.  It took about 15 minutes and worked as advertised....


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## vederstein (Sep 8, 2018)

Then I inserted the wick, poured in some denatured alcohol, and lit the burner.

All was well for a few minutes, but I guess my soldering wasn't as good as I had hoped even though I thought I checked adequately for leaks with water.






There is an apparent leak at the bottom of the spout.  Alcohol leaked on the work bench and then caught on fire.  A bit of quick action avoided any real damage to myself or my house/workshop.  Moving the burner to the concrete floor to burn itself out and a bit of patting the burning workbench with a rag put out the fire.

I have some sealing to do.

As I was experimenting, I have doubts that my engine is going to be a runner.  I'll give it a worthwhile try, but Stirlings are always flaky.  So it goes.

...Keep following...


...Ved.


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## MRA (Sep 9, 2018)

Thanks for this warts-and-all write up.  It's very encouraging when one's motivation goes, to watch someone else digging themselves out of the s*** with a cheery countenance


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## vederstein (Sep 9, 2018)

MRA:

All of the builds I've documented here show my (sometimes enormous and expensive) screw ups.  I've accepted it years ago,  I'm just not that good of a machinist compared to other people here.

But that's ok!  I'm still having fun with this ****.  When it no longer becomes fun I'll step away from it for awhile.  If it's still not fun after that, I'll sell my equipment.  It's been over 10 years now, this hobby seems to be sticking around as long as I keep trying new things.

My next project will be my first dual cylinder, double acting steam engine.  It will also be of my own design to which I'm I've started.  It will have vertical shaft (like an inverted lawnmower engine).  I'm going to cast the aluminum parts myself.  The engine's purpose is my project for the 2019 Maker Fair season: a live steam powered spin art machine!  Absolutely stupid in every way, but kids (and many adults) like stupid and whimsical things.

Usually when I build an engine, I'm just happy it runs.  This next project will require an engine designed to actually perform a function.

...Ved.


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## littlelocos (Sep 10, 2018)

"There is an apparent leak at the bottom of the spout."

Ved,
Before resoldering, etc. check to make sure you didn't overfill the burner.  The spout of the little tea pot is lower than the cap.  If you fill it to the rim, fuel will run out of the spout, down the neck to its base.

BTW, regarding how the engine runs.  I've been really happy with it.  If you have trouble there, also let me know as I'm glad to help.

Let me know what you find out on the burner.
Todd.

Todd Snouffer
Littlelocos Model Engineering
www.littlelocos.com


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## vederstein (Sep 11, 2018)

littlelocos said:


> Let me know what you find out on the burner.



It was a leak at the base of the spout.  I unsoldered the joint, tried to clean the surfaces and resoldered.

The same thing happened, after cleaning, a small pinhole developed.  So screw it, I plugged the hole with some JB weld on the inside.  Outside the joint looks perfect so it's all good.

As for the engine running, it seems to want to, but not quite.  So I'm close to a running engine.  I now believe I overlapped the cylinder and made the piston a tiny bit too small.  If I apply oil to the back of the piston and rotate the engine, I can see bubbles develop as air leaks around the piston.  I also think the displacer is dragging a small amount against the cylinder wall.

I'll eventually heat up the piston to expand it and remove the displacer and try to find the contact point.

Thanks,

Ved


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## littlelocos (Sep 11, 2018)

Hello Ved,
The video linked here  should give you a good idea of the fit on mine.  

Also check for leaks around the displacer rod.  

I use Kroil as a lubricant in my Stirling and flame licker engines as it is super-thin; can take the heat; and doesn't gum up in storage.  I use a dab of multipurpose grease or white lithium grease on the displacer rod as it helps with sealing.  

The hot end of the regenerator will ride the cylinder wall; however, it gets enough oil from the power piston end to make this not a problem.  This is different than if the displacer is used.  It shouldn't touch the cylinder wall at all.

Set the lead angle at 90-degrees or a little more.  I think mine is about 92 or 93.

Here's a video of the engine running:  
It will pretty-much run like that all day on a low flame.

Thanks,
Todd.


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## vederstein (Sep 12, 2018)

Oh yeah, my piston fit is too loose.  I have some compression, but not like as shown in your video.

Thanks,

...Ved


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## vederstein (Sep 23, 2018)

I give up.

I expanded the piston.  Heating to bright red and oil quenching enlarged the cylinder.  I don't know how much. I didn't measure it.  It didn't fit in the cylinder anymore.

So I re-lapped the cylinder bore to fit.  As far as I can tell, I have a good seal this time.

After reassembling the engine, and a few hours of fiddling with it, it still doesn't run.

At this point I'm considering this endeavor a failure.

I plan on removing the base and finishing it (sanding & staining), but I made a very expensive paper weight.

CRAP!!!!!

(Please don't give suggestions.  I've read many suggestions from other threads to no avail.)

...Ved.


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## littlelocos (Sep 24, 2018)

vederstein said:


> I give up.
> 
> At this point I'm considering this endeavor a failure.
> 
> ...



Ved.  
You're probably not too far from having it running.  Several things are a must - Zero drag on anything, timing, enough heat.  

The prototype took me about 7 months from "completion" to running; however, this included completely redesigning the displacer piston as a regenerator.  At that point, I still wasn't happy with the way it ran.  Later, I enlarged the furnace and re-did the stainless cylinder.  From that point on, it has run like a champ (and was ready to release as a kit).

I definitely wouldn't give up yet.  Joy and I will be attending (not exhibiting or showing) the Mid-East Ohio show this-coming weekend.  Will you be there?  I'd be happy to have a look at it.  We'll also be at Cabin Fever and NAMES as vendors.  Let me know.

Sometimes a fresh set of eyes is all it takes.
Todd.

Todd Snouffer
Littlelocos Model Engineering
www.littlelocos.com


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## vederstein (Sep 24, 2018)

Thanks for the offer Todd, but I'm done.  It's time to move on to the next project.

Maybe after a cooling off period I'll get the gumption to work on it again, but now it's just a source of frustration that should avoided.

If hobby isn't enjoyable anymore, it's time to stop.

...Ved.


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## littlelocos (Sep 24, 2018)

Ved,
Sounds like a plan.  I know I've set aside projects for a while, putting them into a "Thinking Stage."
Thinking is good.  
If you're ever in my neck of the woods and want to spend an afternoon in the shop working on it, let me know.
I'm happy to help.
Todd.


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