# Horizontal  Double acting  Twin Self starter



## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

Anybody interested in going along for the ride? I just designed this engine, based on the cylinder bore and stroke as used on the "Beam Engine at Double Scale" which I posted a couple of months ago. I am using the same slide valve arrangement, but have reconfigured it into a horizontal mill type engine. The only thing I haven't personally built on this style of engine is the fancy flywheels and a built up crankshaft. I think I will probably do up full detail drawings and post them as I go along, and I would love it if some folks could build this engine along with me. Since I see the crankshaft as being the most challenging thing to make, I will post a detail drawing of it and build it first.--If I can't build the crankshaft, then there is no point in making all the other parts.


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## Kludge (Oct 18, 2008)

I won't be building along but I will be following along as part of Kludge's Ongoing Education ... ie, looking for ideas to steal for my own engines. ;D

A good number of my engine designs are solenoid driven (mostly for Noelle) with the rest air driven for Noelle (for safety reasons) and steam for me. Some of the air and steam engines will have solenoid operated valves. The Noelle-machines have to be larger (but still fit a USPS Priority flat rate "shoebox") due to vision loss but the rest can be small of the itty bitty order. 

So ... I will follow along, learning more about design and construction as I go, and looking for ideas that can be applied to my own creations. Like you, I'm too cheap to buy plans. 

As a side note: I got to talk with Brian on the phone today and he's a delight to talk with. But dont' let him fool you about his being a "newbie". He might not have the time with the machining equipment others do but he's an Old School engineer with the design time to back it up. You'd best believe I'll be learning a lot!

Best regards,

Kludge


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

Jeez, Thanks Kludge. Thats the nicest thing anybody has said to me so far this year!!! By the way---send me your real email address---No, I ain't gonna pay you for the compliment, I just want to send you those waterwheel pictures.


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## rake60 (Oct 18, 2008)

I'm liking it already Brian!

I built Dave Goodfellow's *Siamese Twins Engine* a little more than year ago.

His design is similar, but it has a 180 degree throw in the crank.

I'll be anxiously awaiting the progress updates.

Rick


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

Tonight I srarted the crankshaft. I had a couple of cheap Chinese paralells 1/2" x 1/8" setting on the shelf, waiting to be sacrificed, so I cut them about 1/8" too long on my bandsaw.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

I don't know about you fellows, but I've never had much luck drilling 4 parts individually and geting the holes to all line up. The answer--a trip out to the mig welder in my garage and weld them puppies together at each end.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

A bit of layout and centerpunch work---


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

And away we go to the mill for some drilling and reaming.


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## jack404 (Oct 18, 2008)

Brian 

I dont have the skills yet to do this with you but i have spent the past couple of hours going over the design and i like it so much i have shelved other ideas to put this in thier place for 

"when the time comes"

and i will follow you with the build if you go along with it.

if i can help in any way let me know

cranks i have not done any "model sized" but did build racing motorcycle cranks and cam shafts for many years and am scaling down the jigs as a preperation to be able to make these models ( why i'm making the Alu mount for the rotary table, the ones i have made in the past where mostly one peice ) but scaleing down is a lot slower than i had hoped/planned so i am way behind where i thought i'd be. And with another work order just in i'm gonna be further behind a bit more , but maybe not the extra cash will help speed up some parts of the process.

again let me know if i can help in any way.

cheers

jack


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

And now to divulge an ancient machining secret--I didn't want to round these off on my old favourite the vertical belt sander---so---I drilled and tapped the head of a big old bolt out of my junk drawer, bolted the crankshaft throws to it, and chucked it up in my lathe.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

And Voila!!! The weld is gone, and all the peices are identical.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

Welcome aboard Jack. Glad you're liking it. Hang on--I think it'll be a fun ride.--Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2008)

And one final bit of wisdom.--I THINK that the holes are exactly in the center of the 1/2" wide crankthrows, but I've been fooled before--thus, before I dismantle things, a punch mark in one place at one end of each peice. That way when I assemble them on the 1/4" shaft for soldering, I can't get one of them bass ackwards.


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## rodbuilder (Oct 18, 2008)

Brian, what cad program are you using for the design. Your work looks good, looking forward to following this engine.


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## Bernd (Oct 18, 2008)

Brian,

Very interesting on how you solved the turning problem. I'd like to add to this if I may. This would have been an ideal job on a faceplate. Bolt a piece of aluminum to your face plate and then mount the parts to be turned. Just another way to solve the same problem. 

Regards,
bernd


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## wareagle (Oct 18, 2008)

Brian, its looking good. I wish I had more time (don't we all) to spend in the shop, 'cause I'd love to do this build along side yours! This engine will certainly be in the "rainy day" stack!

Watching with enthusiasm!


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

rodbuilder  said:
			
		

> Brian, what cad program are you using for the design. Your work looks good, looking forward to following this engine.


Solidworks-2008


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

Bear with me fellows. I am a complete and utter "crankshaft virgin", so I'm making it up as I go along. Since I wanted to keep everything parallel and square, I have built a couple of very simple jigs. the first jig consists of a scrap block of aluminum in which I drilled and reamed two 0.25" holes on the same centers as the crankshaft throws. This should gaurantee that everything stays parallel. The second jig is simply a peice of aluminum machined to 0.340" thick, which is the exact distance required between the crankshaft plates. That should gaurantee the distance I need between the plates. Silver solder does not stick to aluminum, so I should be safe for my first silver soldering step.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

First soldering step finished. Yeah, I know--Dramatic overkill with the solder, but I never clained to be dainty. Besides, I'd rather get enough on there to run in and fill any joints than be sparing with it and have the crankshaft fly apart. --More to follow--


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

And here is the second soldering, set up in the jig. If it looks messy and ugly on your monitor, thats because it is messy and ugly. However, it will be going for beuaty treatment shortly.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

We're getting to the scary part now!!!! I've cut the main crankshaft out in the area where the connecting rod journals are. That little jig I made from the block of aluminum with 2 holes in it has proven to be an excellent way of holding onto this thing while filing it. now we are heading for the lathe. I guess this is where I get to learn turning with a cut off tool. Thats the only tool I have thin enough to fit in and machine the silver solder off the journals with.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

The batteries are dieing in my digital camera. This picture shows the reason that I left the long tail on the peices of crankshaft that are the connecting rod journals. I took a scrap peice of aluminum rod and drilled and reamed a hole in in 2" deep. Thats how I hold things to turn the connecting rod journals on the lathe.


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## seagar (Oct 19, 2008)

I am really enjoying this ,thank you very much for sharing .

Ian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

Here we are set up in the lathe. The aluminum adapter is in the chuck, with one leg of a connecting rod journal positioned in it. The main crankshaft is acting as a lathe dog, fitted in between the chuck jaws. I put a point on a long peice of brass and held it in the tailstock mounted chuck, just as a safety to keep things from moving parallel to the lathe bed--remember, I'm not actually gripping the crankshaft. i had to put a point on the brass and a small centermark in the crank assembly at point of contact, otherwise the brass rod wanted to "orbit" as the crankshaft turned.--And Oh Yea--You can see my parting off tool being used to machine with. all my real cutting tools are too wide to fit.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

First journal machined----scary stuff--Held my breath the whole time!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

Both connecting rod journals machined up fine. I then cut the long "tails" off them that had previously fit into the aluminum adapter while they were being machined. I chucked one end of the crankshaft up in the chuck, but I was scared of bending things when I started to machine the center journal. Then inspiration struck!! I had an MT2 "blank" that I had bought for a different project and never used, so I drilled and reamed a 1/4" hole in the end of it, filled it with grease, put it in the tailstock, and slid it over the "free" end of the crankshaft to act as an outboard support while I machined the center journal.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

So there we are fellows. If a newbee machinist/old fart like me can make a built up crankshaft, then anybody can!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

CRANKSHAFT DETAIL


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

Maybe I'll try these next. So far I've built 3 steam engines, and I took the cowards way out on each one as far as flywheels go.--(Made them as round plates with holes for decorations.) Now I think its time to get really bold, break out the rotary table, and try something fancy. I am fully aware that some of the people on this forum who I consider "Real Machinists" prefer their flywheels with tapered spokes. I think that it will be a personal milestone if I can make a flywheel with spokes, period.!!! Someday when I,m feeling REALLY BOLD I'll try the tapered spoke thing. ---EDIT EDIT EDIT--I have had to make a couple of changes to the flywheel drawing. Since the 2 flywheels have spokes, and I (at least) would like to keep the spokes lined up, and because I want to balance the rotating crankshaft assembly, The flywheel hub design changes to an offset hub as shown, and there are 3 lightening holes added to the rim as shown


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## CrewCab (Oct 19, 2008)

Blimey Brian ......... you don't 'ang about do you  ....... looking pretty good to me, well done with the crankshaft. As for flywheels .......... tapered spokes shouldn't be much more complicated than straight ones .......... the maths is straightforward for the co-ordinates, though I suspect it would be much easier with a dro on the mill ........... do you have one? .............. OK CNC would be easier still but where's the fun in that ;D

Enjoying this thread very much, thanks for taking the time to document everything ............. your making me think as well, ..... earlier I looked at your aluminium jig for turning in the lathe and try as I might I couldn't figure out how you were going to drive it ........ after about an hour of it niggling away at the back of my mind I finally figured it out ........... the other leg acted as a dog ........... I was very chuffed to go back to your thread and find out I was right ;D

Keep it coming please Brian ............. I suspect there are many out there hanging on every post 8)

CC


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2008)

Crewcab--No, I don't have DRO s on my mill. Sure wish I did thought.


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## CrewCab (Oct 19, 2008)

What the heck, straight spokes are fine by me 8)

CC


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## wareagle (Oct 19, 2008)

Brian, this is looking great! Congrats on your crankshaft!  :bow:

By the way, don't worry about feeling like your not a machinist... You really are but just don't know it yet. Each and everyone on this board started from ground zero. The paths and current places for each are different, but the one thing in common is we all enjoy widdling metal into parts! Stay at it! You're doing great!

Besides, I learn something new everytime I go into the shop. I am sure many others here do as well!3


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## Cedge (Oct 19, 2008)

Brian
Excellent work and a great show of how working intuitively will get you where you want to go. I have to admit you had me holding my breath too. I'd have been super gluing spacers between the journal blocks to prevent the chance of collapse when under pressure from the lathe. 

Several photos are floating on the board where the dreaded AWWW $*%# moment jumped up a the worst possible time. And yeah... I too have one of those fancy looking pretzel cranks hiding in one my scrap spare metals boxes.... somewhere ...LOL

Don't let the flywheel thing spook you. slow down and think your way through it. The tapers are no high step for a high stepper. The curved spokes... well... let's just say they scared the bejeezes out of me too, until I jumped in and drove right on through... at least on the second attempt, that is....(grin) 

Steve


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 20, 2008)

I just about fell down dead this morning when I called my local metal supplier guy and inquired abut the price of 2" of 4" diameter brass. --Holy cow!!! $80--- So I drove down and found a "cut off" peice 10" long in the shorts rack. I whined and begged a little, and he decided to let me take the part home and cut it myself to avoid any cutting charges, and to return the chunk left over. That way he said, "Take 2 1/2" so you will be sure and have enough, return whats left over, and bring me $60 cash. So---Thats my big old, 40 year old, home made power hacksaw chewing away out in my garage.


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## mklotz (Oct 20, 2008)

Brian,

If you've never done a spoked flywheel before, you might want to make a practice one from aluminum (or even, shudder, wood) before risking $60 of brass. Just a thought.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 20, 2008)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> Brian,
> 
> If you've never done a spoked flywheel before, you might want to make a practice one from aluminum (or even, shudder, wood) before risking $60 of brass. Just a thought.


Marv--I'm going to do this !Slowly, slowly, creepy mousie"!! I'n not worried about the lathe-work part of the build. For the spokes, I will lay it out with marking die first, and then be darn sure that my mill and rotary table settings are in 100% agreement with my layout work before actually cutting brass.


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## BobWarfield (Oct 20, 2008)

Lots of ways to skin the flywheel cat. While you've already bought your brass blank and no doubt intend to continue in that vein, I thought I would post a link to The Engineman's built up flywheel as an alternative for others:

http://modelengines.info/goldeng/const/flywheel.html

Cheers,

BW


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## GailInNM (Oct 20, 2008)

Brian,
With the cost of brass the way it is today, it may be time for you to step up your machining experience on your next project. Cast iron and 12L14 steel are both easy to machine. Cast iron is messy, but cheap. Both take a little bit more work to polish. But cast iron is about 20 percent of the cost of brass and 12L14 is about 25 percent the cost of brass. 
Gail in NM,USA


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 20, 2008)

Damn--I just lost 20 minutes of typing when I went to post.--It gave me a message saying "my uploader space is full"!!!


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## Kludge (Oct 20, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> I am fully aware that some of the people on this forum who I consider "Real Machinists" ...



That would be you, Brian. Next time you want to talk about "real machinists" look in the mirror 'cuz you are one. Every step in the design and construction of this wee beastie has been educational, and I know I appreciate the time that you're taking to explain and provide "visual aids" as you go. Not only that but I'm having a blast watching the engine go together.

Gail mentioned 12L14. Check some of the local machine shops in their scrap bins. I wouldn't doubt that a little leg work and some fast talking would net you a nice supply of material, especially of you work through some of your customers.

Several years ago, I received about 150 pounds of that, stainless and brass in round, hex and square shapes sent to me from the mainland for the cost of several USPS Priority flat rate boxes and some 100% Kona coffee, all from scrap bins. The gentleman who sent it to me, now deceased, said he could send me material up to around 6" in diameter if I could turn it but we stuck to 1" or so because I couldn't think of anything I wanted to turn at the time that was bigger. He asked me why I didn't scout around locally for a supply and I told him I had but to no avail. (I'm still hoping to hit some of the shops at Pearl Harbor but they're technically off limits so I have to find a friendly Chief to get me in.) 

The bottom line is, that there is material out there to be had for cheap if not free (plus fuel) if one looks around the right corners.

Best regards,

Kludge


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## rake60 (Oct 20, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Damn--I just lost 20 minutes of typing when I went to post.--It gave me a message saying "my uploader space is full"!!!



Brian I can't expand the attachment limit any more than I already have.
Please PM or email me and I will help you set a photobucket account to continue
your picture posts.

Rick


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 20, 2008)

Okay--If needs must---We'll do the photobucket thing. I got 2 peices cut off and faced and turned to diameter this afternoon. I think I might have got bronze, not brass, but I can't really tell, however its yellow, its shiny, and its a lot heavier than aluminum. I am not 100% sure what I'm doing, but I am a firm believer in layout dye. I have coated both flywheels with layout die, and as I wait for it to dry I can update this post. I have used a peice of mild steel shaft, 3/8" diameter with a point turned on one end, and chucked it up in my tailstock chuck in the lathe. I used it to put a very small centerpunch mark in the exact center of each flywheel, simply by locking the tailstock in position and forcing the point up against the brass flywheels---they mark very easily. When my layout dye is dry, I will take one of my old drafting compasses, put 2 steel points in it to make dividers, and with one end in the centermark will scribe the outer diameter of the hub and the inner diameter of the rim, and also use my height gauge to mark a line around the circumferance ,in 1/4" from each side. that way I have some visible lines to work to when the flywheels are chucked up in the lathe.


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## wareagle (Oct 20, 2008)

Brian, those are purty! Can't wait to see what's underneath!


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## Philjoe5 (Oct 20, 2008)

Hooray Brian,
I can finally see your photos. Apparently an attachment to a post isn't recognized by my computer software and I've been unable to solve that problem :'(. So all your (and others who attach a picture to a post) previous images are lost to me. I'm looking forward to how you're going to do this flywheel,

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 20, 2008)

Okay--First half of first flywheel done. Nasty stuff to machine--cuts easy but doesn't turn up a decent chip. Instead it bombards me with almost a powder.


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## rake60 (Oct 20, 2008)

Brian I have distant memories of those chips burning my hair.

These days they cause annoying little blisters on top of my bald head! :big:

Great Pics!
Please continue!

Rick


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## Brass_Machine (Oct 20, 2008)

Hey Brian...

Looking good so far!

Eric


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 21, 2008)

I just found out that the material is phosphor bronze. It machines easy, but like I said, nasty, nasty stuff coming off the cutters--think--Metallic Talcum powder at 200 miles per hour!!! I also found that it is unwise to get a finger too close to the spinning chuck when working with emery cloth. All I did was break a nail a little (not even down into the meat), but it sure woke me up!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 21, 2008)

So---That finishes up the lathework aspect of the flywheels, except for the center bore. Now for the scary part---window cutting.


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## kvom (Oct 21, 2008)

As I posted on your other thread, I found having the center hole makes centering the blank on the rotab a lot easier. I would drill them out on the lathe. Just a thought.

I'm off to make some more parts on the beam engine build this afternoon, so I'll check back tomorrow to see how it's going.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 22, 2008)

I haven't abandoned this thread---I've been over at the "Questions and Answers" section of this forum figuring out how to build spoked flywheels. I will update this and start posting here again when the flywheels are finished.




And Kvom, you are absolutely right about the centerhole. I wish you had posted 5 minutes earlier, before I took the chuck off my lathe to put it on my rotab!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 23, 2008)

Well, Son of a gun!!! Here are the peices that worried me most, finished. If I can make them (never did it before), then I should be able to do everything else. You can see the ball bearings that are going to be in the two outer bearing mounts. I know I've been jumping all over the board the last couple of days, but I just didn't want to shove everything into this one thread.


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## Maryak (Oct 23, 2008)

Brian,

Congratulations :bow:

It sure is the greatest feeling when you successfully complete something you weren't so sure about ;D

Keep it coming mate.

Best Regards
Bob


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## wareagle (Oct 23, 2008)

Brian, that just isn't going to work. I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Just send that to me and I'll see to it that it is well taken care of.  ;D

Okay, enough kidding around!! Man, that looks fabulous! You have raised your own bar. I will also say that when you get done with this engine, you will have something that you can and should be very proud of. Great work there!! Looking forward to following this build...


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## cfellows (Oct 24, 2008)

Good job, Brian. I like the flywheels, but I especially like the crank. I've got a 3-some I gotta build some day and your 2-fer looks like a good format to start with.

Chuck


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## compound driver 2 (Oct 24, 2008)

Hi
cutting PB with the tool you have in the lathe will give you probelms. Negative rake knife tool ground from Stelite of HSS will cut PB much better than the indexable tool your using in the picture.
A little drop of tallow will also help the cut, if you dont have tallow a wipe with steam cylinder oil is almost as good. 

kevin


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

Next on the agenda is bearing stands. There are 3, and I have opted to make them all the same. This is going to be a bit complex, and I'm learning as I go. To start out with of course, we have to make an engineering drawing. Then I cut 3 oversized peices of 3/8" aluminum plate and one much oversized peice of 3/8" plate. The much oversize plate is going to get sacrificed as part of the machining process. My aim of course is to keep all 3 bearing stands identical.


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## Andrewinpopayan (Oct 24, 2008)

Sorry to butt in,  :-[ I do agree with Driver. In my experience copper alloys cut very sweetly with HSS tools, almost to a silk finish. You will find an excess of long bronze chip "springs".


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

Andrewinpopayan  said:
			
		

> Sorry to butt in, :-[ I do agree with Driver. In my experience copper alloys cut very sweetly with HSS tools, almost to a silk finish. You will find an excess of long bronze chip "springs".


Andrew--Thank you for the tip. The only cutters I have as a newbee machinist are indexable carbides. I wouldn't know how to grind an HSS tool if my life depended on it. After I have mastered a few more of the basics of machining I will buy a proper tool grinder and learn the arcane secrets of HSS tooling.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

Here we have the 4 peices of aluminum stacked and fastened with "crazy glue" , and the top peice coated with layout dye, and layed out.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

And here we have the peices up on the mill and two 3/4" holes drilled in the appropriate place to give me a 3/8" inside radius as the drawing calls for. You can see the "sacrificial" peice of aluminum closest to the mill table. HOWEVER--I just could not bring myself to trust the crazy glue. So---I drilled and reamed thru in 2 places and inserted 1/8" steel alignment pins. This was a wise idea. Later in the development of these peices, after the pins were removed, all 4 peices "fell apart".--so much for "crazy glue"!!! Won't use it again.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

The peices have been almost completely profiled, and I opted to sawcut the 2 non-critical sides and fininsh them up with a file---much quicker and easier than another 2 mill set-ups. I cut both sides "almost" thru, because once these cuts are all the way thru, the peices will come apart. Before the cuts were completed, I layed out the holes in the top and bottoms of the peices. I can drill them and tap them as seperate entities, but I wanted to do the layout lines while they were still together.


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## kustomkb (Oct 24, 2008)

The pins are a good idea but don't give up on the crazy glue, I use it like that all the time. Just make sure the parts are smooth and clean.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

TaDa!!! We have 3 bearing stands that are identical. ONE POINT--before I seperated the 3 peices completely, I but a sngle centerpunch mark on the bottom of each peice at one end.--Why--well because again, we get into that centerline thing. Although I TRY to make the peices perfectly symetrical about the centerline, they never actually turn out that way. They are always out by a few thou one way or the other. By adding a centerpunch mark where it won't show, this lets me line all 3 peices up exactly as they were machined, to do any farther work on them.---And that "farther work" will be covered in my next post--adding a bearing cap and putting in the holes for shaft clearance and the counterbores to hold the bearings.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

Now, If I can just whittle out 3 of these.----


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## jack404 (Oct 24, 2008)

G'day Brian

this has been great to watch

maybe i can help with the "whittlin"

because its alu and a lot softer than steel which i normally work with

you may like to try something I use

Blind reamers

they are not hard to make and can be shaped to anything you want

Gunsmiths use them often and for specific jobs give them specific names but they are all blind reamers

a blind reamer is one that is used where the metal being reamed has a hole at the end that is not reamed to hold the peice steady

i'll up load a how to make PDF to the download section.


and again, am watching this with great interest ;D ;D ;D


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## steamboatmodel (Oct 24, 2008)

Hi Brian,
If you are cutting dry the material will heat up and cause the crazy glue to release. Any time I held material together with crazy glue I used flood coolant, and never had any problems.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

steamboatmodel  said:
			
		

> Hi Brian,
> If you are cutting dry the material will heat up and cause the crazy glue to release. Any time I held material together with crazy glue I used flood coolant, and never had any problems.


I don't have a flood coolant option on my mill, but thats okay. I have discovered over the course of my 62 years on this planet, that adhesives, in general do not work for me. For one thing, I never have the time to wait for them to set up. If I am going to do something, then I want to do it RIGHT NOW!!! None of this "glue now and come back in 4 hours stuff". Other than Elmers wood glue, (on wood) and 2 part 5 minute epoxy on anything that isn't wood, I stay away from adhesives as much as I can. This latest crazy glue fiasco only confirms what I thought already--"If its machinery, use a metal fastener".


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 24, 2008)

Jack404--Thank you for the interest and for the uploaded .pdf on making reamers. I just purchased an indexable boring head for my mill, (that I am anxious to try out) and I have a set of carbide boring tools that have never been used. My intent is to drill and ream the small "through hole" in the end stands, then use a 1/2" end mill to plunge cut the 1/4" recess that the ball bearing fits into, and then use one of my carbide boring tools in the indexable boring head to open the recess out to the required .687" diameter.---Note that I will be bolting the bearing caps onto the bearing stands before doing this.


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## Cedge (Oct 24, 2008)

Brian
All I can say is the stuff works perfectly fine, here. Nice clean flat surfaces, a good solid vise and yes... dowel Pins when it is practical. I think from here on.... I'll just silently observe.

Steve


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## tel (Oct 25, 2008)

Must be a Northern Hemiflat thing then Steve, 'cos it sure don't work too well in my Oz workshop


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## compound driver 2 (Oct 25, 2008)

shelac disolved in methalated spirit was always called the watchmakers chuck. I still use it to glue 
very thin brass sheet onto faceplates for cutting washers or wheel trims. Super glue is fine for mending cuts and broken crockery but its far too brittle once hard to stand the shocks of cutting. The heat wont help it but the impact from ythe cutter tooth will damage the bond.
If your trying to glue a stack of aluminum plates together for machining id use clamps instead. On the bits shown in the photos
a center clamp and two side clamps would have done the job.


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## Kludge (Oct 25, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> And here is the second soldering, set up in the jig. If it looks messy and ugly on your monitor, thats because it is messy and ugly. However, it will be going for beuaty treatment shortly.



Okay, there's a step I missed somewhere. How did you ensure the throws were 90o apart or did I miss a separate thread somewhere? 

No, I'm not this far behind; it was a sudden flash of "Huh?" that hit me somewhere along the line.

Best regards,

Kludge


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 25, 2008)

Cedge--I wasn't beating you up---Honest!!! I just never had much luck with glue. I welcome your posts and comments any time, please stick around and comment. I enjoy hearing all ideas. If some of them don't work for me, thats okay, I know some people have great sucess with them. Kludge--I used the old tried and true "magic eyeball" method of determining 90 degrees---that and a small layout square. I didn't solder them both at the same time. I soldered one, let it cool, then lined the other one up and soldered it..Compound Driver---Clamps were not an option, because I had to profile all sides of the blocks, and a clamp would have been in my way---also, with a clamp on them (I',m thinking C-clamp), there is no way they would have layed flat against the mill bed.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 25, 2008)

This morning I finished the bearing caps. I tapped the bearing stands, and wouldn't you know it, on the vey last bottom hole, I broke the #10-24 off right flush with the surface!!! There was no way that sucker was coming out, so I just drilled a new hole 1/4" inboard of the hole with the broken tap in it and tapped it instead. (I don't know how I got lucky enough to have an extra 10-24 tap, but I did.) I also went downtown to my metal supplier and got a couple of choice "offcuts" for $20 to make th base and the spacer block under the cylinders with. I guess my next step will be to bore the bearing stands for the ball bearings.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 25, 2008)

In a world of Wacky Setups----This is how I will keep the distance from the engine base up to the centerline of the crankshaft bore the same on all 3 bearing stands. Bearing stands bolted to flatbar, flatbar setting on parallels and clamped to angle, angle bolted to mill table. So far----So good----


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 25, 2008)

This is more fun than a bag of rattlesnakes----Well, not really. This is my brand new boring head boring its very first hole. Works good, but its so out of balance that the mill wants to levitate if I run it at more than 675 RPM .


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## CrewCab (Oct 25, 2008)

Brian .......... this is a comment not a criticism, cos' I may well be wrong ........... but .......... I couldn't have brought mi'self to drill the stands without a support under either the drill centreline or the opposite end to the clamps ............ I know it's a soft metal but deflection etc, ............. just my take mate ......... and only put it forward to spark discussion so we can all learn really.

hope it worked for you though 

atb

CC


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## CrewCab (Oct 25, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> the mill wants to levitate if I run it at more than 675 RPM .




I'm not surprised really, Brian,* please *do me a favour and get the work clamped securely to the mill table before proceeding any further ................... call me a "worry wart" if you want but that set up frightens me ................. a lot ???

CC


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 25, 2008)

Well, thats enough for me for one Saturday. I'm tuckered out!! For all who worried about my setup---Each bearing stand was bolted to the aluminum plate with 2 bolts. The aluminum plate was clamped to the angle with two c-clamps, and the angle was bolted to the mill table with two 10MM bolts and T-nuts. Nothing moved, nor tried to move. Thank you for your concern. You are probably right about something under the cantilevered bearing stands being a good idea, and if they had been steel I definitly would have had additional bracing.


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## CrewCab (Oct 25, 2008)

Glad it's all worked out fine Brian .......... looks like a *very* nice result 8)

OK ............. what's next ......... never mind this "having a rest" stuff ;D

CC


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## Kludge (Oct 25, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Kludge--I used the old tried and true "magic eyeball" method of determining 90 degrees---that and a small layout square. I didn't solder them both at the same time. I soldered one, let it cool, then lined the other one up and soldered it.



Ah, okay. Thanks. This means I can end my frantic search for a side thread while imagineering a jig in the process. 

This is quite an education for me, Brian. Many thanks for letting us watch over your shoulder.

BEst regards,

Kludge


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 25, 2008)

Kludge---Have you ever heard about "Don't follow me---I'm lost!!!!" I'm not sure that I advocate doing things exactly as I'm doing them. There is a lot of this stuff that I am posting that I have never done before, except in books and on a computer. Most of the time I'm making it up as I go along. :big: :big: :big:---Brian


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## Kludge (Oct 25, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Most of the time I'm making it up as I go along.



Yep, but that's the part that's so educational! It's in part the actual means used but also an implicit guide to how you got there. I've mentioned before about your ability to think on your feet and this is a prime example. 

BEst regards,

Kludge


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 25, 2008)

Since I now have the material, and I'm worried about knocking the finished parts off the corner of my desk where they currently reside, I think I may make this part tomorrow. Just a word of caution---when I post a drawing up here, please be aware that it is a preliminary drawing, meaning that I will build to that drawing unless I find some reason not to. This is a very good example---If you go back to the first or second post where the overall General arrangement of this project is shown, you will see that it is designed with a 1/2" baseplate. this morning as I was pawing thru the "Shorts Rack" at my local metal supplier, I found a peice of 6" x 3/4" x about 16" long, so I have changed the plans to have a 3/4" thick base. When I get all the way through this build, I will place an updated set of drawings in the download section.---Brian


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## wareagle (Oct 25, 2008)

Brian, everything is looking great! In my opinion, you are doing a terrific job both on the design as well as the build.

Regarding the previous setup on the bearing blocks; I echo the thoughts of the others. I leave it there as there is no point in riding a dead horse.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 26, 2008)

Its early Sunday morning here. I get up and play (quietly) in my little machine shop and on the computer untill wife and daughter get up. This morning I flycut the surface on one side of that peice of 6" x 3/4" flatbar that I picked up for a base. No--flatbar isn't really flat. It always has a crown on one side, a depression on the other. My flycutter uses a tool with a carbide insert, and although I can say with due certainty that the bar is now flat, (at least on the side I will be bolting my peices to), the surface finish leaves much to be desired. I have the remedy for that---a peice of emery cloth in my orbital sander. Problem is, its an air powered orbital sander (from my body and paint era) and the great big air compressor is in the garage---right under wife's bedroom!!!! So---I'll not be doing any more work untill wifey pops out of bed and declares that she is ready to face a new day!!!


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## CrewCab (Oct 26, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> So---I'll not be doing any more work untill wifey pops out of bed and declares that she is ready to face a new day!!!



 ;D  ;D ............. Wise move 

CC


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 26, 2008)

So--Wife is up and about. The peice of flatbar has been flycut on one side to be perfectly flat, then sanded with a peice of medium grit emery cloth in my orbital sander to remove most of the machining marks, then coated with layout dye. I started to cut it out on my bandsaw, but that was taking forever, so it was out to my ancient tablesaw with a woodcutting carbide tipped blade. I put a bit of "blade wax" on both sides of the blade, then cut 3/4" aluminum just like it was a peice of wood. It cuts very well, and clean, but is terribly noisy and if your not really hanging on to the aluminum with a death grip it will "kick back" and knock your head off.--Definitly a time for leather gloves and a full face shield!!! You also get showered with chips, but it sure do cut fast. You can see that I cut about 1/16" outside the actual "cut lines". These will be finished in the mill.


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## cfellows (Oct 26, 2008)

I've also cut aluminum up to 1/2" thick on my table saw. It feels like a very scary operation, so I don't do it very often. Ear protection is definitely a good idea in addition to the leather gloves.

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 26, 2008)

Well, thats it for today. Everything fits, and it looks like I had planned. There is a bit of minor binding on the shaft, but nothing that a little tweaking won't fix. I am amazed at how freely the shaft and flywheels spin with the ball bearings I am using. The center stand will be a split bushing. I have to pick up a couple of counterbore tools this week. I believe I have a purchase order coming through on Monday to design a heat treat furnace, so this project will probably slow down for 3 or 4 weeks. Last week I had no "real work" so was able to devote every day to playing "Mr. Machinist". ---Then again, I'll probably just work more in the evenings to see it finished.


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## jack404 (Oct 26, 2008)

Brian looking very very good

glad they spin as hoped

happy your getting paid work in too getting paid to design a heat treat furnace
cool!

i've made a few myself but no real design to them besides the controls for the gas jets

glad its all comiing together for you 

the wheels the stand and the base all look excellent

cheers to ya

jack


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 26, 2008)

Jack---Its not a heat treat furnace (Ya, I know, I said it was).--A local company manufactures heating elements, and after they are welded together, they have to go through an induction coil that heats them red hot --(actually its an anealing furnace).--then they run thru a nitrogen cooling loop thats supposed to cool them down to 100 degrees F. Trouble is, it only cools them to 500 degrees, and they are literally "too hot to handle". I am going to design some transfer conveyors with open mesh belts and large cooling fans to pump air over them and accumulate them on a picking table so that they are cool enough for people to pick them up and move them for more processing. This will involve some pneumatic automation to grip them and pull them out of the furnace, a roller conveyor, some "flippers"--(Think pinball machine), and an 8 foot long, 22 foot wide open mesh belt conveyor and a couple of huge fans. Pretty standard stuff, but still time consuming design wise.


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## jack404 (Oct 26, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Jack---Its not a heat treat furnace, they have to go through an induction coil that heats them red hot


( edited a heap )

Brian will send you a PM

magic words Induction coil!!!! not for modeling but will PM you may have another job for you if you know induction technologies

cheers


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## rake60 (Oct 26, 2008)

Congrats on the progress Brian!

This is the first thread I go to every time I log on.
I want to see this animal breathing as much, if not more than you do!

Rick


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## steamboatmodel (Oct 27, 2008)

Brian Rupnow ..... so it was out to my ancient table saw with a woodcutting carbide tipped blade. I put a bit of "blade wax" on both sides of the blade said:
			
		

> If you must cut it on a table saw you would do best to clamp it to a guide or piece of wood so you can get a good grip so you do not have to use gloves they are a recipe for missing fingers around any machinery.
> Regards,
> Gerald


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 27, 2008)

This morning while waiting for my Purchase Order to come through, I machined and mounted the riser block that sets between the base and the cylinder block. No magic here--just a lot of bandsawing, flycutting, and filing to get rid of flycutter marks. The purchase order came thru at 11;30 so I'm of and running on a new design job for the next month. Damn, I like money!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 28, 2008)

I phoned my favourite money pit today and ordered up some brass. I have pretty well made up all the aluminum bits that are required, and I don't want to machine the eccentrics untill I have the brass rod ends made. I don't have a 3/4" reamer, so I use a (shudder) 3/4" drill to put the hole in the brass end, then machine the steel eccentric to fit.


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## wareagle (Oct 28, 2008)

Brian, it is looking fantastic! I am glad the rotating assembly rotates easily.  That just goes to show you are spot on in your measurements and machining. 

As the others have said, I'm watching this build with a lot of envy and enthusiasm!


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## oldboatguy (Oct 30, 2008)

Brian,
Beautiful job so far!. Earlier on, I thought your journal webs looked a mite thin in proportion to shaft diameter for a built up crankshaft but you have negotiated that part superbly. I particularly liked the way you used the journal shaft extensions for machining setup. I know a couple of old lathe hands who would have loved to have that option when doing journals on replacement stamping press cranks. (they were one piece forgings.) I have done a couple of built up cranks in the past and used a 4-jaw chuck to get my journal offsets just like the old guys taught me. I like your way much better since it makes it possible to do the crank with only a 3 jaw chuck!
I am looking forward to seeing how you do the cylinder block & valves.

Good job!
Gerry


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 30, 2008)

Oldboatguy--Thanks for having a look. Stick around and ride this thing through with me. Right now I'm suffering from sticker shock. I just came back from buying what brass I need to finish this thing, and it cost $120. Then I went over to the nut and bolt store, and bought the rest of the socket head cap screws and set screws that I need. I'm up to $240.00 now in materials on this build.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 30, 2008)

Tonight I made the split brass bushing for the center bearing stand. This is kind of a pain---you can't just make one bushing and saw it in half, because you lose the material from the sawcut. So--you make two bushings and mill half of each one away. After it was made, the two halves were loctited into the upper and lower section of the bearing support with Loctite 638, and the bolts liberally coated with grease and snugged up to clamp everything in place. I have this rather involved plan to make certain that the center bearing stand gets bored at the correct height to match the crank. When I drilled and reamed then all together in my rather questionable set-up, earlier, I hatched this plan. The outer two bearing stands, with roller bearings in place get bolted to the base, (crankshaft removed) and I will put a peice of 1/4" drill rod thru them. The drill rod is long enough to hold in the chuck in my mill by one end, while it is in the bearings. I will then use an angle plate to secure the base to the mill table, and make certain that there is no bind with everything firmly bolted in place. (turning spindle by hand, no power). When I am satisfied that my set-up is good, I will remove the drill rod and bolt the center bearing stand to the base. I will then drill and ream it in place. This should ensure that the bore thru the brass bushing is perfectly concentric to the inner diameter of the ball bearings.---I HOPE!!!


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## wareagle (Oct 30, 2008)

Brian, I am eager to see how this idea turns out. This has me on the edge of my seat!


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## dsquire (Oct 30, 2008)

Brian

The theory behind this seems good. As long as everything is secured firmly I see no reason why it will not work. I'll be watching for the results.

Cheers

Don


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 31, 2008)

Here are a couple of pictures of the set-up I used to drill and ream the center bearing stand bushing. In one picture you see the drill rod thru both outer bearings and held in a collet in the mill spindle, with the base clamped to an angle plate which is bolted to the bed. In the other picture, I have changed out the collet and drill rod for a chuck, removed the top bearing stand, drilled the center stand, and reamed it. I then tore down the setup and bolted the outer bearing stand back into place. The shaft turns very freely, without binding, and is firmly supported in the outer two roller bearings that are inset into the stands, and in the center bushing.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 31, 2008)

Tonight I started the brass connecting rods that attach to the crankshaft. The drawing is not finished, it just has enough info on it to get me started. When I design something in 3D, the drawings are generated automatically, but I still have to add in the dimensions--Since I have already input the math data when I created the 3D model, all I have to do is tell the computer which dimensions I want, and where to put them. So---this is "from the beginning"--first I create enough dimensions to get me started, then I lay out what I need to on the brass material, then its off to the mill.---More to follow---


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 1, 2008)

Con rod roughed out on bandsaw, ready to go into mill.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 1, 2008)

Conrod profile in one plane finished. Heck of a pile of work to get to this stage. Things shouls start to look interesting when I do the other profile.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 1, 2008)

Almost there---


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## wareagle (Nov 1, 2008)

Brian, it's looking real fine! :bow:


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 1, 2008)

Good show Brian! We should start a new forum....The Joys of Milling Con Rods Twice! :big: :big: :big: I like the profiling you've done.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 1, 2008)

Philjoe--I'm watching your engine devlop as I'm building mine. What great fun, and Lord, what a vast amount of time it takes! I am learning new skills every day, and really enjoying it. Even though I've been designing machinery for over 40 years, I am developing a whole new respect for the time it takes to make machine parts from scratch!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 2, 2008)

For my second connecting rod, I've had to resort to a different way of holding the peice of brass for machining. Brass is so expensive now that I bought "just enough" plus an inch more to make the con-rods. The first conrod went easy, because I had the other half of the 1" square brass bar to hold onto in my milling vice. For the second one, (where the material is only 1" longer than the con-rod, I have drilled and tapped both ends 1/4"-20 and matched the holes to two "on size" holes in a 1" square aluminum bar to give me something to hold onto. I placed three 1/4" flatwashers between the brass and the aluminum peices to allow the end of my milling cutter to clear the brass but not cut into the aluminum. I will let you know how this works when I am finished the second connecting rod.---Brian


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 2, 2008)

Fixtures are great aren't they? They're the invisible tricks that solve a lot of problems. 8)

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 4, 2008)

And now we have two---Good Lord, is it ever hard to make two identical peices. I still have a bit of creative file work to do, but the milling is done. You can see that in a fit of misguided enthusiasm I went ahead and put the 1/4" "half hole" in the crankshaft end of the first rod I built.-- wish I hadn't done that. I'll deal with it. What you can't see is the last two 1/8" diameter holes I drilled in the wrong place in the second part---And they were the last 2 holes required for the second major profile cut. Since I wasn't about to throw away a days machining, I made two 1/8" diameter brass plugs and silver soldered them into place, then moved the holes to the right place.---We live---We learn!!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 4, 2008)

This will be the next two parts, to go with the connecting rods----


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## Maryak (Nov 4, 2008)

Brian,

Thanks for your efforts and for including the pluses and minuses in you work :bow:

To make 2 identical anythings by hand is as you say difficult 

Best Regards
Bob


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 4, 2008)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Brian,
> 
> Thanks for your efforts and for including the pluses and minuses in you work :bow:
> 
> ...


Maryak---Thanks for having a look and commenting. I am following your I.C.E. build with interest, but I think I have a ways to go to bring myself to your level of expertise.---brian


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## jack404 (Nov 4, 2008)

Brian  its great watching this come together

as for identical parts i've only ever made identical stuff ups , i spend that much time doing what you call creative filing i'm making a filing machine before doing anything else

the only thing that matters is learning 

oh and the ability to correct the stuff ups

thanks for the marking out tips , thats been excellent

gonna save me a heap of time very soon i hope

cheers

jack


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## Maryak (Nov 4, 2008)

Brian,

Thanks for your kind words. Compared to many members here my efforts are very ordinary to say the least :

For me it's not so much the accuracy, but the accuracy combined with the excellent finishes I have looked at. I guess I'm just too impatient. :-[

Your machining skills and your recovery from, Oh [email protected]#t, situations would be the envy of many.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 4, 2008)

Great photos as usual Brian. You did a great job on those connecting rods. Saving the one from the "recycle" box was a bit of creative effort.  :bow: :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 5, 2008)

I milled out the peices for my connecting rod caps, and then wanted to match the holes in them perfectly to the connecting rods. I don't know how the other 3 billion people on the planet would handle this, but this is what I did. I drilled the clearance holes in the connecting rod caps, then lined them up and crazy glued them in more or less "perfect" alignment to the con rods. Then I took the clearance drill in my hand drill, and using the conrod caps as a "guide" I spotted the ends of the conrods as shown. Then match marked the con rods and their respective caps, and broke the crazy glue bond to remove the caps. I then set the conrods up one at a time in my mill and drilled and tapped them----Everything fit perfect. As you can see in the last picture, due to repeated filings and "alignments" the thickness of the conrods has shrunk a bit from what I originally intended. This is not a problem function-wise, but I am going to have to turn down the head diameter of the #10-24 capscrews a little bit to compensate for that.


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## wareagle (Nov 5, 2008)

Brian, there are as many ways to skinthe proverbial cat as there are people doing the skinning. No one way is right or wrong, it is what works best for you. Things are look good!!


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## Maryak (Nov 5, 2008)

Brian,

You did good man. :bow:

Not trying to teach you to suck eggs but have you thought about some form of locking arrangement for the big ends and other bits, when the engine is assembled ???

From bitter personal experience with my mill engine, they will fly apart at higher speeds, with a second con rod the result. 

I used through bolts so it was just a matter of centre popping the nuts and threads. With cap screws, maybe a star washer, loctite on the threads etc.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 5, 2008)

Maryak--I don't run my engines very fast--In fact with steam (or air), slower is generally preferred. However, it is advise well taken. All of the previous engines I have built were one peice con rods, with nothing to fly apart. I will use a bit of Loctite blue threadlocker on the con rod bolts at final assembly. Thanks---brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 5, 2008)

Holy Cow!!!!


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## CrewCab (Nov 5, 2008)

Nice going Brian ;D ........... but you've missed a bit, how did you cope with the 1/2 hole 

CC


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 5, 2008)

CrewCab  said:
			
		

> Nice going Brian ;D ........... but you've missed a bit, how did you cope with the 1/2 hole
> 
> CC



It was a trick worthy of Harry Houdini!!! I took the con rod cap off, put a 1/8" dowel in the chuck on the mill, and shoved the con rod small end up onto the dowel. I opened the vice and lowered the quill and chuck untill the conrod big end was between the jaws, and roughly centered. Then I closed the vice jaws untill the con rod was securely gripped, but the quill, chuck, and 1/8" rod would slide freely up and down. I then took out the 1/8" dowel and cranked the table 3.0" to towards the big end. Then I put a 1/4" dowel in the chuck and played pokey monkey untill the 1/4" dowel was a perfect fit into the "half hole. Then I raised the quill and put the conrod cap back on--a decidedly tight squeeze, as it was the exact same size as the big end of the con-rod (I sandpapered the ends a bit to get it between the vice jaws)------Then I put a 3/16" endmill into the chuck and VERY CAREFULLY lowered the quill untill the end mill chewed a half hole thru the cap. Then I put in a 7/32" drill and played pokey monkey again untill I had a 7/32" half hole thru the rod cap, but hadn't touched the con rod. Then I put a reamer in the chuck and reamed everything to size. Big pain in the keester, but it worked.


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 5, 2008)

Hey Brian,

That is looking sharp. I am impressed!

Eric


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## wareagle (Nov 6, 2008)

Brian, it's looking a bit like an engine!! And a darned fine one at that!!

I am enjoying this build! Thanks for the ride!! :bow:


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## Cedge (Nov 6, 2008)

Brian
I had to chuckle when I read the last post you made. The water engine almost caught me in the same sort of predicament. Luckily the light bulb lit jus tin time and I managed to avoid it. This build is coming along in a very impressive manner and it's got you thinking outside the box, for sure.

Steve


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 6, 2008)

Think maybe I'll go here next---


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 7, 2008)

This afternoon I was able to get a good start on the cylinder body---


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## Maryak (Nov 7, 2008)

Brian,

You sure don't muck about. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Faster than a locomotive - Leaps tall buildings in a single bound etc. ;D

Looking good :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 8, 2008)

Onward and upward---It looks like 99 percent of my milling machine work is completed. I have a couple of holes to add to the cylinder body that I made yesterday, then on to the cylinder end/cross head guides.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 8, 2008)

I'm all tuckered out!!! There is a full days work in these cylinder caps, and they aren't done yet. I didn't want to change chucks for this, so I did it in the 3 jaw. I layed out the holes in each end of the bar and center drilled the ends on my mill. I also drilled an extra hole in one end and tapped in a 1/4" dowel to be my lathe dog. I put a center in the 3 jaw, and supported the bar between centers and machined it that way. They are finished to the extent shown, and everything worked out okay. I set them up individually in the 3 jaw after they were parted off, and drilled and reamed the center for a 1/4" piston rod. Tomorrow I hoope to finish them.


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## Kludge (Nov 9, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Holy Cow!!!!



Perforated bovine? Where? ;D


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## wareagle (Nov 9, 2008)

Brian, it sometimes amazes me how much time one I put into a little bitty part! It's the nature of the beast I guess. Hang in there, just keep on keepin' on and you'll have a great little engine on your hands!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 9, 2008)

We are one step closer to a living, breathing engine---(I hope). I got in a good days machining yesterday, and today my wife and daughter are over painting the daughters new condo. I've already paid my dues at the new condo---plastered and sanded about a thousand friggin nail holes in the drywall and fixed 2 "cat holes" that the previous owner had cut through the bedroom walls and front hall closet so her cats could get from one room to the other. Nothing real tricky about the cylinder caps, except it was a lot of hogging from barstock to get them cut out yesterday.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 9, 2008)

Time to build some pistons and such---


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 9, 2008)

Great work Brian. I especially like your "lathe dog" trick :bow:. Who'da thunk? ???

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 9, 2008)

Oh Boy!!! Oh Boy!!! Oh Boy!!! (Really there's no pistons on the end of them rods yet), but Oh boy!!!---


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## ksouers (Nov 9, 2008)

Oh Boy!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 9, 2008)

I had to chuck the rods up in the lathe and do a little silver solder removal from the piston rods up near the brass ends, as there is only about 0.125" between the brass end and the crosshead guides at their closest point of approach, and it wasn't allowing the engine to completely turn a full revolution. After I did that, it spins quite freely. Needless to say, I'm excited as Heck. suddenly, there isn't too much more untill this thing runs!!


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## chuck foster (Nov 9, 2008)

holy crap brian...........slow down.......there's only so many styles of engines to build.............and at the rate you are going you will run out of engines to build :big: :bow: :

this engine you have designed right from scratch and now you have it almost built, i what 3 or 4 weeks?????

oh boy is right.................look forward to seeing it next year at the shows!!!!!

 chuck


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## wareagle (Nov 9, 2008)

Brian,

Man oh man... You little creation has certainly started taking on a life of its own. Looking great!!


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 9, 2008)

Brian,
It is really looking like an engine. Man you are fast. At this stage if you have good movement of everything you're really kicking buttinski ;D

I can't wait to see this engine run.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 9, 2008)

Jeez Guys---I never had so much fun with my clothes on!!! I'm whipped. Heading for the shower right now!!


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 9, 2008)

Hey Brian,

Just wanted to give you a thumbs up on the plans you have been doing lately. Your larger beam engine and this one.

Good job mate!

Eric


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 9, 2008)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> Hey Brian,
> 
> Just wanted to give you a thumbs up on the plans you have been doing lately. Your larger beam engine and this one.
> 
> ...



Thanks Eric. Its not that big a deal to me to do up the plans, but then after 44 years of designing machines, it shouldn't be. I'm still thrilled to peices when somebody else builds something from them.


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 9, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Thanks Eric. Its not that big a deal to me to do up the plans, but then after 44 years of designing machines, it shouldn't be. I'm still thrilled to peices when somebody else builds something from them.



I will probably start one or both after Christmas. I have some gifts to build first. Anyway, good job on contributing to the community!

Eric


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## Maryak (Nov 10, 2008)

Brian,

or should I say Speedy Gonzales ??? 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




This is my second post of this message 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







Faster than a locomotive - Leaps tall buildings in a single bound etc. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Looking better than good. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 10, 2008)

This morning I finished the pistons. All well and good, you may say---but wait--there's more. After the usual screwing about trying to get things to slide freely and to have cylinder, cylinder cap, piston, and piston rod all concentric and sliding without any major binding (which is a saga all of its own), I assenbled everything.---and---IT WOULDN'T TURN OVER. And then--I took it all apart---and I measured everything---and then I put it back together---and it WOULDN'T TURN OVER ---and then I took it apart and checked everything---and it looked like I was going to have to move the entire cylinder 1/8" closer to the crankshaft to have the damn thing turn over!!!! Now, I don't usually make mistakes of that magnitude. So---one final check item by item---and damned if I hadn't made the pistons 1/2" long. The drawing calls for 3/8" long!!! NOTE TO MYSELF---READ THE FRIGGIN DRAWINGS. So--back to the lathe and turn 1/8" off the arse end of the pistons (the rod side). Hurray!!! It finally turns over---sticky, but turns over, non the less. Now its setting out on my garage floor with the electric drill on it, running like gangbusters. An hour of that and it will be free as a bird.


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 10, 2008)

Congrats Brian !!!


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## dsquire (Nov 10, 2008)

Hi Brian

I know it gets to you when you make a mistake like that but better 1/8 too long rather than too short. Lets hope that all your bad luck is good like that. It definitely is another good looking engine that you are going to have there.

cheers :bow:

Don


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## Maryak (Nov 11, 2008)

dsquire  said:
			
		

> I know it gets to you when you make a mistake like that but better 1/8 too long rather than too short. Lets hope that all your bad luck is good like that. It definitely is another good looking engine that you are going to have there.




Me too 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	







Best Regards
Bob


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## rake60 (Nov 11, 2008)

Looks great Brian!

I've truly enjoyed following this build through your step by step posts.

Rick


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 11, 2008)

Congratulations Brian :bow: :bow: :bow: You took us for a nice adventure.

Now what am I going to read about with my morning coffee? 

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 11, 2008)

Very good Brian! So what's next on the plate?

Eric


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 11, 2008)

Still a bunch of stuff to build on this one,---valves are next.


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## CrewCab (Nov 11, 2008)

Keep up the good work Brian, top class stuff 8)

CC


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 11, 2008)

I spent the morning painting over at my daughters new condo, then made it home in time to make a pair of valves. I decided to make the ends from brass, and to just turn the main bodies from some 1/4" cold rolled. I didn't spend a lot of time on the reduced diameter section of the valves, as the only important part is the two large diameters and the brass end. I can see that my tools are due for some new carbides, as the old ones are the originals that came with my lathe and are getting quite dull---thus the shabby finish---I could have put the lathe on high RPM and used a bit of crocus or emery cloth to clean them up better, but they won't show, so I'm not too worried. I departed from my usual method of attaching the ends, (silver solder), and glued them on instead with Loctite 638. Why---Well, to make a long story short, I screwed up the sequence and drilled and reamed the 1/8" holes in the brass ends first. Then I realized that if I silver soldered the shafts in place, I would end up filling the 1/8" holes with silver solder. I have used loctite before for similar types of connections with good success, so I will see how this goes. If the bond breaks, I can always silver solder it later. I coated the short section of 1/8" cold rolled with grease and inserted it through both peices as an alignment tool before I started Loctiting--I HOPE I can get it out later--- ;D ;D Next thing on my agenda will be the two eccentrics that operate the valves.


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 11, 2008)

Didn't realize you weren't done yet (note to self: read all the posts before commenting). It looked almost done. But still, I am anxious to see whats next. I got some ideas if you wanna talk about them.

Eric


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 12, 2008)

A bit of extremely good news this morning!!! I made up a temporary air inlet tube , put some temporary plugs in the 0.080 holes drilled thru the side of the cylinder block, and put both valves in place. By supplying 20 PSI air to the inlet tube, and moving the valve back and forth thru its normal range by hand (which the eccentric will do eventually), I was able to get the piston and rod to kick back and forth like it will do when the engine is running. I tried this test independently on both sides of the engine, and both pistons move back and forth equally well. This proves to me that the design is correct in terms of the piston location in relationship to the valve ports drilled thru the cylinder body. In the picture you can see the temporary air inlet stack, as well as the plugs in the sides of the cylinder body. (you can also see the pivot axles with acorn nuts that I made up to connect the piston rods to the connecting rods.) This "tryout" air inlet will play a very important roll later in the development of this engine. My plan is to set the valve timing on one cylinder at a time with the other cylinder "dead",(receiving no air supply). This will let me establish the best valve timing and power profile for each cylinder individually with no false input from its other cylinder.


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 12, 2008)

Nice progress Brian. I like your idea about timing each cylinder independent of the other. I was wondering how I was going to do that step when I get to it (not in the near future yet ) on my current build.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Maryak (Nov 12, 2008)

Brian,

Your engine is really starting to come together now and looking great. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Congratulations on a fine build and for providing us with some very useful and innovative techniques. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




I'm sure you've thought of it, but just to be safe, both eccentrics must either lead or lag their respective cranks. (Easy to get one on each side 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 when timing individually)

Best Regards
Bob


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 12, 2008)

Am Enjoying this thread also and saving the plans for later. 
When I saw you running it in with the drill I too thought you were finished. but there was something like the picture telling me something was missing like valves valve rods etc. Keep up the good work. 
Tin


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 12, 2008)

And for todays bit of mischief---a pair of eccentrics. I still have to drill and tap them for #10-24 set screws, but other than that they are finished. And my oh my, the size of the part bears absolutely no relationship to the ammount of work required to hog them out of a 1 1/8 diameter chunk of hotrolled steel!!! Its a good thing that I don't have any "real work" today, because it took me all afternoon to make these darn things. We are closing in on a working engine here. The only outstanding mechanical things are the rods that go from the eccentrics to the valves.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 12, 2008)

Guess I'll go here next.---Don't worry about saving these drawings. I'm going to update all of them and save them as .pdf files in the upload setion when I get this engine fineished.---Brian


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## wareagle (Nov 12, 2008)

Brian, the eccentrics look good. You are almost there!! And this has been a lightning fast build I must say. 

A big hearty thanks for all of the time you have taken with documenting and posting progress pics. I almost feel like I have been building this along side you!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 13, 2008)

Well boys, Onward and upward!!! I had real work in my engineering office today, and I have to travel to see a customer tomorrow, so I'm a bit late accomplishing anything tonight. I got the eccentric straps machined and mated to their respective eccentrics (there is about .001 difference in the diameters). I was so excited that I had the holes in the eccentric straps reamed to .187 before I realized that "Damn!!! That was supposed to be threaded!!!" Oh, well, God hates a coward---I'll put the threads in the other end that isn't made yet.


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## ksouers (Nov 13, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> ...I had the holes in the eccentric straps reamed to .187 before I realized that "Damn!!! That was supposed to be threaded!!!"...



Brian,
You are not alone!
I needed to drill 3 blind holes in a line. When I finished the last hole I realized I'd just drilled 3 of the purtiest thru holes you've ever seen.

Are you going to solder them?


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## kvom (Nov 14, 2008)

Brian,

Does Solidworks compute the angle of the tangents for the eccentric strap? That is, the angle the sides of the large end and make with the centerline? For machining these using a rotab that would be useful to know on the plans.

I did some math/trig calc. and got 26.255 degrees.

I noticed that this part is a duplicate of that on the double scale beam engine, and I will be making this part soon.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 14, 2008)

kvom  said:
			
		

> Brian,
> 
> Does Solidworks compute the angle of the tangents for the eccentric strap? That is, the angle the sides of the large end and make with the centerline? For machining these using a rotab that would be useful to know on the plans.
> 
> ...


Kvom--Your math is right on!!!---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 14, 2008)

Well, I got back from the Big Smoke (Toronto) this afternoon, and managed to get the OTHER ends for the valve control rods finished. (And yes, I threaded them!!) then I drilled and tapped the eccentrics, and had a little assembly party. However, things did not go as swimmingly as I had hoped.--Oh, it all went together, and I was entertaining thoughts of maybe a test run, but---Not quite yet. I seem to be suffering from a stack up of tolerances, which is not that unusual when a whole whack of parts fit tight against one another. You can see in the picture that the valve control rods are not running parallel to the center of the machine---instead they angle outward from the crankshaft to the cylinder body. This was cause for a bit of head scratching, and for a minute (a very short minute) I thought about firing up the oxy acetylene torch and putting a small dog leg in each rod. then sanity prevailed, and after studying what I had for a few minutes I determined that I have lots of room to shave about .090" of the end of the eccentric hub that sits tight up against the inside of the flywheel hub This will let the valve control rods set parallel to the center of the machine like I intended, and will take any induced "bind" out of the system. It will also give me the opportunity to machine a couple of "retaining rings" that I will Loctite in place on the end of the eccentric (the bit that sticks out past the eccentric strap)--This will keep the eccentric strap from wanting to wander off of the eccentric.


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 14, 2008)

Looks like you've entered the "Tweak Zone" Brian. Since I haven't really built an engine yet exactly  from plans, I seem to always get to where you are at now. A spacer here, a washer there, trim a few thousandths off this n' that, then put it all back together again. I may be a real "sicko" but I actually enjoy this phase of building the engine. For me, it really brings to the forefront, where the tolerances have to be. Good luck in getting the engine ready for the first run. We're all anxiously awaiting

Cheers,
Phil


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## wareagle (Nov 15, 2008)

Brian, the little engine looks great.  :bow: :bow: I know that you will get the tweaks sorted out in short order and soon will have a very nice running model!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 15, 2008)

I am in the final stages of assembling my twin horizontal engine, and simce I had to tear everything down after a preliminary fitting, I decided to go with my original idea of turning a 0.060 thick steel ring, heating it cherry red, and shrinking it onto the eccentric to keep the strap in place. It calls for having 3 hands at once, one to hold the torch, one to hold the pliers with the hot ring in it, and one to hold a small hammer to "persuade" the ring into place, but it seems to work very well.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 15, 2008)

Everything is finally lined up and reassembled. The engine is stiff, but I've got thr drill on it again, "running in" the friction points. Whats really unbelievable is the ammount of air its pumping out the inlet stack!!! If I've lived right I'll have this thing running on its own power before the day is over.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 15, 2008)

Uh oh!!! Disaster!!! My built up crankshaft just let go. Its one of the silver soldered joints, right beside one of the connecting rods. Man, I hope I can fix that---


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 15, 2008)

Yahoo!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D--Its running!!! ;D ;D ;D I resoldered the crankshaft "in place" and hooked up the air. Its only running on one cylinder right now, on the corner of my desk--and its beautifull!!! Now I will rush and make an air inlet for the other cylinder and see what happens.


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## CrewCab (Nov 15, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Its running!!! ;D ;D ;D



Congrat's Brian :bow: ............. don't panic, you seem to have the knack of dealing with the "snagging" items as they arise, another few days and it will be running like its been here forever I'm sure 8)

CC


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## wareagle (Nov 15, 2008)

Brian, congratulations!! :bow: :bow: I'm glad it is on it's own power even if it is for testing purposes! Fabulous job!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 15, 2008)

Well guys, its been quite a thrash this afternoon. Early in the afternoon, as I was getting everything loosened up to run with no friction, I managed to break one of the silver soldered joints on the crankshaft!!! I gritted my teeth and silver soldered the bugger back together in place, because I figured that if I took it out of its bearing blocks it would totally be scrap. It went back together okay--one flywheel now has a bit of wobble to it, but hey, I'll worry about that another day. First I monkeyed around with the timing on one cylinder (no air supply to the other cylinder) untill I got it to run on one cylinder. Then I switched the airline to the other cylinder and got it to run on that one. Then I had to run out to Canadian Tire (our everything mechanical store) and buy a T to split the air supply with. Now its setting here running like a charm, and here is the obligitory video. I will be fabricating a classier air intake manifold, and updating all the drawings and posting them in the downloads section of this website.---Brian


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## chuck foster (Nov 15, 2008)

excellent job brian, you should be very proud of your efforts.............from drawings to working engine in no time flat :bow: :bow: :bow:

chuck


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## Paolo (Nov 15, 2008)

Congratulation!!!! Nice job.... :bow:
Paolo


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## Maryak (Nov 15, 2008)

Brian,

Congratulations on another runner. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 15, 2008)

And Yes, by Gosh, it does self start!!! (I've been setting here plugging in and unplugging the airline, just to see.


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## wareagle (Nov 15, 2008)

Brian, you have done an awesome job!  :bow: :bow:  You have a very nice runner!!

You're little engine is all you, and that is something to be proud of!! Many, many thanks for sharing your exploits on this project.


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## jack404 (Nov 15, 2008)

Brian 

the movie says it all

a very good build, thank you for taking us with you along the way

i so glad its worked as you wished and i look forward to seeing the tools you intend to run off this and your other engines


well done eh

cheers

jack


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## ksouers (Nov 15, 2008)

Congratulations Brian!

This has been an amazing journey! What? 3 weeks from design to a running engine?
Wow!


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## Macca (Nov 15, 2008)

Well done Brian!
That is a fantastic engine. I can't believe you designed and built it as quickly as you did. You make the rest of us look like slackers. Should we be expecting the next engine next week?


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## Cedge (Nov 15, 2008)

Brian
Congrats... Nicely Done!! I can share the feeling of satisfaction, going from an idea to a running engine. I happen to know it's even more of a rush than that of getting the first one to run. Welcome to the Blind Alley Engineering Club....LOL.

Steve


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 16, 2008)

Well done Brian!  :bow: :bow:

Eric


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## dsquire (Nov 16, 2008)

Brian :bow:

If I remember right, it was only several weeks ago you were wondering what engine to build next. Definitely a short time span from bar stock to running engine. Very impressive and a good looker too. Now when you get finished with your Bling it will really be something. I nominate it for the next engine of the month. It will be interesting to see what can be arranged for it to power to show it at work.

Job well done Brian

Don


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 16, 2008)

Thanks Guys, for the congratulations. The plans are now up on the "download" section of this website.---Brian


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## CrewCab (Nov 16, 2008)

Brian .............. what can I say that's not already been expressed ;D

Great job, that's a cracking runner ............. nice one :bow:

CC


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## Brass_Machine (Nov 16, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Thanks Guys, for the congratulations. The plans are now up on the "download" section of this website.---Brian



woohoo! :bow:

Eric


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## kvom (Nov 16, 2008)

Very nice job, and fast!

I hope you don't burn out at this rate ;D


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 16, 2008)

kvom  said:
			
		

> Very nice job, and fast!
> 
> I hope you don't burn out at this rate ;D


 Kvom--Burn Out??? Me??? Well, yes, the last week has been pretty intense. I enjoyed the thrash, but I'm glad its mostly over, and that the engine runs as well as it does. I've got a bunch of little stuff to clean up and finish off right, but the "big rush" is done, and I'm glad of it. Things are slow in my real business right now. This damned economic thing has really put the brakes on any new machine development, and since about 85 percent of industry in Ontario seems to be driven by the automotive sector, and its hurting in a big way, I may have nothing to do except frig around with steam engines untill things pick up a bit.


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## Kludge (Nov 17, 2008)

I don't know what I can add that hasn't already been said other than the degree to which I am impressed by the design and how you went through the build. That includes explaining all the steps including recovery from the "That wasn't supposed to happen!" parts which are no less educational. 

Okay, now I have to find the Taig!

Best regards,

Kludge


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## tel (Nov 17, 2008)

Excellent effort!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 18, 2008)

I spent the last couple of days finishing things off properly. The port plugs in the sides of the cylinder block were finished off with stainless steel acorn nuts, the temporary wrist pins were replaced by custom made bolts with brass nuts, and I created a brass log type manifold. Most things that could be easily removed were taken to the polishing bench given a bit of polishing. I now consider the engine to be truly finished, and I am happy to take a break for a while. I have about 10 hours run time on the engine now, and it will set and quietly tick over on about 12 pounds of air pressure. It won't self start on such a low pressure--It likes to see about 20 PSI to self start, but thats just the difference in static and dynamic friction.


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## Philjoe5 (Nov 18, 2008)

Brian,
A great looking engine. Congratulations on designing and building a fabulous engine. Any chance you'll ever show in the US? If so, let us know :bow: :bow: :bow:

Cheers,
Phil


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## kustomkb (Nov 18, 2008)

Great job!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 18, 2008)

I am currently working on designing a flyball governor to put on this engine. (or any engine of compareable size) Things are preliminary right now, but if you want to have a look, its over on the other thread I have going about flyball governors.--Brian


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## oldboatguy (Nov 19, 2008)

Brian,
Well Done!!
That is a good looking engine. I am looking forward to seeing what you do with the flyball governor.

Gerry a.k.a. oldboatguy


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 15, 2010)

Someone pointed out to me today (Aug-15-2010) that the drawing packge I have had available for download has an error on the cylinder drawing. I have corrected that drawing and added a few details of the intake manifold. These are zipped up in a zip file called Winrar. If you can't open it, Winrar is a free download from the internet.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/1gwo30e1be3tf5k/DOUBLE HORIZONTAL.rar


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## bazmak (Nov 8, 2014)

Hi brian got your drgs thanks and need to read this thread.Question how can i access this thread quickly without searching everytime
Can i instill a shortcut ???


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## Nicolas (Nov 8, 2014)

bazmak said:


> Hi brian got your drgs thanks and need to read this thread.Question how can i access this thread quickly without searching everytime
> Can i instill a shortcut ???



Now that you have commented on the thread it will be at the top of the "work in progress" section.


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## bazmak (Nov 12, 2014)

Thanks Nicolas,and thanks Brian for the additional info.Nice to know
that it needs 20 ibs to self start and about 12 to run.For when i finish it and 
hopefully get it running Regards barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 12, 2014)

Now that this thread has been revived, people are asking me for the link to the drawing plans. Here it is again.---Brian
http://www.mediafire.com/download/gck2zjg62adfwna/BRIANS_TWIN_HORIZONTAL.zip


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## lennardhme (Nov 16, 2014)

Well, with work in hand I may be lagging behind a bit, but looking forward to the build.
thanks,
Lemmard


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 16, 2014)

This is a very old thread that has been resurrected. Since there seems to be renewed interest in it, I have been asked a few questions. The download link in post #213 has the corrected cylinder drawing in it. The cylinder drawing on post #133 of this thread can no longer be edited by me, but it is not correct. The download link on post #209 is dead. I see that I have not included the intake manifold drawings in the drawing package. The two 1/4"-20 tapped holes in the top of the cylinder block are the air inlets. Refer to my actual pictures and you will see that I have two threaded "nipples" that screw into the 1/4"-20 ports and are connected by a hollow 3/8" o.d. tube with capped ends. The capped tube has a 0.170" diameter "spigot" with a 0.080" diameter hole through it soldered into the pipe connecting the two "nipples". Air (or steam) is supplied to that 0.170" diameter "spigot" and then flows both ways down the connecting tube and thru the two nipples screwed into the 1/4"-20 threaded ports.----Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 8, 2014)

I have just remodeled the entire engine, based on the pdf files, because I had lost all the solid models in a computer crash a few years ago. I noticed that in the drawing downloads that I had never put in any drawings of the intake manifold system, and had not shown the port plug bolts nor the main cylinder block hold down bolts, so I have added them to the model. And yes, before anybody asks, assembly of the manifold is a rather amazing stunt. The two vertical pieces of tube with wrench flats on them are screwed into the cylinder block and tightened down. The primary air inlet, the cross tube, and the end plugs are soldered together as a unit. Then the top ends of the vertical intake tubes are coated with Loctite and the soldered manifold assembly is set in place over the vertical pieces of tubing with the wrench flats on them.--Crazy, but it works fine!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 8, 2014)




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