# Building the Pumpjack



## Brian Rupnow (May 5, 2010)

I know, I know---I said I wasn't going to do this. However, nobody else has jumped on it, and my phone's not ringing with work, so I am going to go ahead with it. In my estimation, the two trickiest pieces to machine are the "Tower Spacer" at the top of the tower, and the "Horsehead". I spent the lions share of today machining the "Tower Spacer" and believe me, if I could make it as fast as I designed it, I'd be a miracle worker!!! This is a fairly tricky piece with multiple set-ups, and its one of those pieces where you start with a goodly oversized chunk of aluminum to give you something to hang onto while you are working on it. I machined a piece of aluminum "to size" in two planes, and left it about 1 1/4" longer than the drawing called for. The pictures will explain this better than I can. First thing I did was drill and ream the 0.25" hole to size, then layed out the shape and set up my "Tilt a whirl" vice to let me machine all of the angles.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 5, 2010)

Next step was to machine the main center slot and drill the holes which will be tapped for #5-40 threads.---Well actually the next step was to mill the other two slots which you see in the picture, but I didn't take a picture of that step.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 5, 2010)

I did some real head scratching when it come time to cut off the 'handle"--As in how to cut it off, then square up the remaining "good part". I decided that instead of my trusty bandsaw, I would hold the part by the "handle" and cut it off with a slitting saw.---Worked like a charm!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (May 5, 2010)

And here is the finished part. I put a few Canadian coins down on the drawing beside the part, to give you a sense of scale. Its pretty darn small!!!!


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## zeeprogrammer (May 5, 2010)

Gee whiz it's hard to keep up with you...
All the great drawings...
and now all the nifty parts.

Enjoying it all. Looks like a great project.


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## SAM in LA (May 6, 2010)

Brian,

Nice part.

As usual, great write up and photos.

I'll be following your build closely.

SAM


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## kcmillin (May 6, 2010)

Very Cool Brian. You sure got on it pretty quick. One minute your drawing up plans, the next minute your building it.

This will be a good one to watch. 

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

The next piece I'm going to make is the "Horsehead".---Not particularly because I'm a big fan of horses, but because I get to use my rotary table, which I have never used very much since I bought it.----I used it once to make spoked flywheels about 2 years ago, and its set in the corner since then, a great bloody expensive piece of kit that I new I would get to use "EVENTUALLY"!!! Well, "eventually" has arrived. I may have to try and purchase a ball nose 1/16 dia endmill, but then again, I may put that 1/16" sliting saw to work again.


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## kcmillin (May 6, 2010)

That looks like a pretty complex part. I will be interested to see your setup on the rotary table. (one of my favorite tools)

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> That looks like a pretty complex part. I will be interested to see your setup on the rotary table. (one of my favorite tools)
> 
> Kel



Yes---Me too!!! I'll be making it up as I go along.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

For the "horsehead" I started out by digging around in my pile of aluminum "shorts" and rescued a nice piece of angle with a 1/2" thick leg x about 8" long. I cut out a piece slightly wider than the 2.325 overall length of the Horsehead and milled it to finished size, but kept the full length.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

I layed out the Horsehead on the piece of aluminum, and was sure to also lay out the center of the radius on the part. I have a tapered MT2 spigot with a tapped 5/16" hole in the center of it that fits into the center of my Rotary table, and has a 0.5" parallel "nose" on it that sticks up about 3/8" above the top surface of the rotary table. I drilled a 1/2" hole in my piece of aluminum at the center of the radius and fitted it over the spigot in the rotary table, then stuck a bolt in to hold it. I drilled a second hole 5/16" diameter whech would line up with a T slot and put a bolt in there as well. Since the spigot is only held into the rotary table by its taper, I then made up a hold down strap and bolted it across the piece which will be machined, and held it in place with a bolt into each of the other t-slot nuts. Since the radius is 2.937 and the diameter of my rotary table is 6", I have 5 spacer washers strategically placed between the workpiece and the top of my rotary table to avoid marking the table top.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

Well Sir---That went pretty slick!!! I knew I'd get to use that Rotary table sooner or later. Since I don't have a 1/16 ball nose cutting tool, and don't feel like going across town to get one, I think I will use my 1/16" slitting saw to put in the two grooves in the face I just cut for the rope to lie in.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

Gazinga!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

So there we go!!! One finished horsehead!!! I am very pleased with the way this turned out, and I'm thrilled that I finally got to use my rotary table for something other than an expensive lump that sets in the corner. I couldn't figure out a good way to put the tight curved channel for the wire rope in the top without an exotic set-up, so I done what I always do---I changed it to something simpler!!---A word here about Design Engineering---I depend on my 45 years of background experience to create cost effective and functional designs, and in hobbying as in real life, everything I do is a "prototype". ---And once in a while, like this, when I (or a customer) goes to build a machine I design, something simpler and yet just as effective presents itself. This is good. Now if it was a "one off" machine, it would probably get built just as I designed it.--HOWEVER---And its a "biggy", when the "design review" happens (generally after the fact) if the machinist points out to me that he could have done it a "cheaper/quicker/better" way, I remember that for next time. If there are going to be multiple machines built, I revise the drawing so that the rest of the machines are going to get built incorporating the "cheaper/quicker/better" design change.--and thats what I've done here. I have changed the drawing to reflect what I have actually machined. So---All you chaps who have downloaded the .pdf files----This is the new, revised drawing as well.













View attachment HORSEHEAD ALTERNATE.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

Tower Frames---Two for the price of one----kinda. If this works, and it should, I will only have to cut out one tower frame. I have pinned and bolted two pieces of 1/4" aluminum plate together, because untill I mill the 6 degree angles bottom and top, these two frames will be identical as far as the overall shape is concerned. In order to get all of the 1/8" radii in the corners, I will have to drill six 1/4" holes, and this just keeps it simpler.


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## SAM in LA (May 6, 2010)

Brian,

The horsehead looks great and I am glad you were able to use your lonely rotary table.

Granted, this model won't see the use or loads of the full size one in the field, I am concerned that the wire rope would get cut on the edge created by the 0.125 spot face.

Perhaps you could use your 4 jaw chuck and machine a circular groove which would have no sharp edges. I'm not sure if you would even be able to grab it in a 4 jaw.

Just food for thought, and please do not take this post as criticism.

SAM


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## kcmillin (May 6, 2010)

Nice job on the horsehead. Your clamping solution seemed to work like a champ.

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

Sam---Thanks for looking. If I have done things correctly, once the top cover is put on that Horsehead, nobody will ever know whats underneath it. If it were indeed seeing any kind of load, I wouldn't leave it with any kind of sharp edges. However, in the world of models, there is enough work just making something that works and is visually appealing without going looking for work. ;D ;D


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

Making it up as I go along---First I drill all of the 1/4" holes in the "crotches" to give me nice 1/8" radii when everything is cut out---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 6, 2010)

Then I saw all the outer lines in the bandsaw and trim "close to the line". Then set it up in the mill and mill "To the line". Then to do the inner cuts---scratch head for a minute, then drill and tap a piece of 1/2" x 3/4" flatbar on the same hole centers as I used to bolt the two frames together---then use longer bolts to bolt the tower pieces (still together) to the flatbar so I can hold it all in the mill vice. Put in a 1/4" milling cutter and start connecting the holes---Just have to be carefull and not cut the wrong thing and have everything fly apart.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 7, 2010)

So---I have Tower side frames that are identical twins. The idea of bolting the two pieces of aluminum together before I started machining turned out very well. The next step is the tricky bit, machining the 6 degree angles at both ends and drilling/counterboring holes at an angle.


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## kcmillin (May 7, 2010)

Lookin Good. As the Fonze would say "Aaaa" Thm: :big: :big: :big:

Do you have a swivel vice? Is that how you milled the angles to make the 'A' shape?

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 7, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> Lookin Good. As the Fonze would say "Aaaa" Thm: :big: :big: :big:
> 
> Do you have a swivel vice? Is that how you milled the angles to make the 'A' shape?
> 
> Kel



Well yes, I do have a swivel vice, that actually swivels in 2 planes. Thats why I call it my "Tilt a Whirl" vice.--But---I cut the edges of the A out with the bandsaw, then set them in the vice so that the leg I wanted to machine was horizontal, checked it with my little level, and machined it. The vice was not tilted to do that.


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## kustomkb (May 7, 2010)

Nice work Brian.

Your parts keep getting nicer and nicer.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 7, 2010)

A few really REALLY strange set-ups.---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 7, 2010)

And  HOT DAMN---I know exactly how Mr. Eiffel must have felt!!!


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## kcmillin (May 7, 2010)

Very nice setup, strange, nah, looks good to me. It all about getting the end result your looking for.

Looks like the part #3 is going to require a bit of the same ingenuity. 

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 7, 2010)

And that, my lads, finishes the tower. Its been an all day thrash, except for a couple of hours this afternoon when wifey and I drove around looking at new houses that we don't need and can't afford. Impending retirement and two people in a 2300 square foot house does not compute----(But thats another story). The bolted crossmembers are not as complex as they could have been. I kept the sides of them vertical, because even with my "high tech" 3D modelling software, compound angles make me crazy!!! Tomorrow will be a 120 mile drive up to Bancroft to see my ancient mother, who will be 90 this summer. She still likes it when sonny boy comes up for mothers day and takes her out for lunch. So---Happy mothers day to all you mothers---See you when I get back.


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## kcmillin (May 7, 2010)

Pretty sturdy lookin frame ya got there Brian. I reckon one more and you got a set of jack stands. Nice Job Thm: Thm:

I agree with you, those compound angles can be a nightmare, and then ya have to machine it.

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 8, 2010)

I'm pleased to announce that mother is alive and well, and has an amazing apetite for an almost 90 year old woman. (And yes, we did celebrate Mothers Day a day early, because tomorrow all our kids will show up here to celebrate THEIR mother!!!) Crazy weather for May---rained all the way up, snowed half of the way back home. Damn, I could have done without that. I got home and decided to tackle the Rocking Beam Bearing. I'm not finished yet, and I don't have much to say about this set-up, other than that it terrifies me every time I do it. Every time I machine something using this set-up, I count my fingers---Before, during, and after, to make sure I still have the same number.


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## kcmillin (May 8, 2010)

We got a little bit of that snow her in North Dakota. Not the way I expected to start May. 

Congratulations on not hurting yourself, that setup does seem a little sketchy.

Kel


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## SBWHART (May 9, 2010)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> I'm not finished yet, and I don't have much to say about this set-up, other than that it terrifies me every time I do it. Every time I machine something using this set-up, I count my fingers---Before, during, and after, to make sure I still have the same number.



Brian

Great work and your drawings are just fantastic :bow:

Every time I see that type of set up I cring it always seems to work great but I've never had the courage to try it.

I don't know if you picked this up on the Harogate show thread but her's a pic I took of a nodding donkey at the show






Cheers

Stew


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## Brian Rupnow (May 9, 2010)

Last night before I went to bed, I loctited a piece of 1/4" diameter cold rolled steel about 3" lg. into the bore of the bushing, and left it setting up all night. This morning while the bearing was still attached to its main stock, I drilled the two bolt holes and counterbored them, then cut the bearing loose from the main brass bar with a 1/4" milling cutter. (The same one I put the flat bottomed counterbores in with.) Then over to the lathe to complete the job. This set up demands that you machine first on the side "away" from the chuck, then slide the part far enough out from the chuck that you can get a reverse sharpened lathe cutting tool in between the chuck and the back side of the part to machine the other side. Then set the bearing up on a flat surface with a hole in it and knock out the piece of 1/4" steel.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 9, 2010)

And "Presto-Changeo"--another part completed.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 9, 2010)

This afternoon I machined the "rocking beam". Nothing to report about it, other than the fact that if it had been any longer than 5 1/2" I would have had to dismount my vice (which is quite tall) and use my angle plate mounted to the table and my part lashed to the angle plate to get enough headroom!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (May 9, 2010)

However,---We are making progress!!!! ;D ;D ;D


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## kcmillin (May 9, 2010)

Great work on the bearing, I like the trick of locktiting it to a steel bar. This could be very useful for many things. Looks good with all the pieces put together.

Kel


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## tel (May 9, 2010)

Coming along nicely Brian. I too, like the Loctited in rod idea BUT if you had done it with an inch or so protruding each side it would have been a simple matter of flipping the assembly over in the chuck to do the second side.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 9, 2010)

tel  said:
			
		

> Coming along nicely Brian. I too, like the Loctited in rod idea BUT if you had done it with an inch or so protruding each side it would have been a simple matter of flipping the assembly over in the chuck to do the second side.



Yes---I thought of that----immediately after the Loctite set up!!!


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## tel (May 9, 2010)

;D Ain't that always the way tho'


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## Brian Rupnow (May 10, 2010)

I've got a bit of "real work" in the office today, so didn't make a lot of pumpjack progress. I did get the "Beam Crosstree" finished. There was nothing too remarkable about machining it, other than the fact that I got another chance to use the "Longest, skinniest, .094" drill in the world" that I bought when building the Webster, to drill out the hole for the pin which attaches it to the Rocking beam.---And of course it was then reamed to 0.125" after it was drilled.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 10, 2010)

Late this afternoon I was going to start the Connecting rods that run from the counterweights up to the Crosstree---but---A check of my inventory failed to find any brass bar. So---I started the counterweights themselves. I had a favourite old uncle (The one that taught me how to drink whisky and play the fiddle), and every once in a while they'd take him in to dry him out. He was always going on about the "Steps" program at AA. So, just like uncle Jimmy, we're going to do this in "steps". ;D ;D---And here is step #1---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 10, 2010)

And here is step#2---(In the previous post, you can see a couple of 1/2" HSS blanks that I use for parallels between the aluminum plate and my milling table, to save from drilling holes in the table, and a second set of parallels stuck into the Tee slots to align the plate to the table)


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

Step#3---The sticky tape caper!!! I'm sure you have all seen this trick a thousand times, but its one of those tricks that just works so damn great, I have to post it again. The sawn out pieces have a layer of double sided sticky tape applied to the side without the layout lines. The pieces at this stage are simply "roughed out" as circles on the bandsaw. I set the chuck jaws to the largest diameter they will go to without interfering with the cut which I will do to smooth the circles into a perfect diameter. I put a "live center"--(there is a bearing in it) in the tailstock and move it up to a point where I can put the point of the live center in the center hole in the part, lock the tailstock to the lathe bed, and put a good deal of pressure against the part to hold it tight against the face of the chuck jaws.--Although I have a 1/4" hole in my part, you don't need it to do this---Works just as well with a center punch mark in the piece. This uses up a lot of real estate, and if your compound rest is a wide one like mine, you will have to swing the topslide around to an ignorant angle to have room to move to move the carriage back and forth---but then you only need to move it 3/8" (The thickness of the part) and another 1.16" for clearance. This works amazingly well.


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## cfellows (May 11, 2010)

I've used that method for tuning disks many times, although I never tried it with carpet tape. Not a bad idea.

Chuck


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## kcmillin (May 11, 2010)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Step#3---The sticky tape caper!!! I'm sure you have all seen this trick a thousand times



This is the first time I have ever seen it. Indeed a slick trick. Thanks.

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

Just when I was complimenting myself on being such a clever sod, I was taken by a horrible thought!!! There are a couple of 1/4" radii on each part that require 1/2" holes being drilled thru to form them---they should have been drilled in step#1, and I forgot them. Damn I hate it when I make a mistake. I REALLY HATE IT when people are watching!!! What to do???? What to do??? I dug around in my scrap bin and found a piece of 3/8" plate, and drilled and reamed a couple of 0.25" holes through it on the same center as the holes in the parts---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

Then I used a couple of lengths of 0.25" cold rolled rod to mount the parts to the scrap plate. I know the holes I drilled in the scrap plate are lined up accurately with the X axis of my mill, because I never changed any settings after I drilled and reamed them.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

Now I could drill the forgotten holes---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

A walk over to the bandsaw with the pieces still "pinned" together, and cut away everything that doesn't look like a counterweight---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

Then back over to the mill to clean everything up by milling "To the line".---Hey--this works great!!! The two pieces of 1/4" steel rod let me line everything up perfectly in the mill vice.---BONUS!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

Then a walk out into the big garage and a visit to the "Monster".--This is where the majority of my "rounding off" gets done. I built that belt sander about 25 years ago, and its one of the most used tools I own.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

And the very last step---drilling the 1/16" crossholes which will be used to pin the counterweights to their shaft. Still using the 1/4" dia. stl. rods for alignment in the vice. Hey!!! How do you like my chuck set-up? Last year I realized that I couldn't hold anything much smaller than a 1/8" drill in my mill chuck. I had an old hand drill that had a great chuck, but the motor was burned out, so I salvaged the chuck and a couple of inches of the shaft. It works a treat, and will hold drills roght down to less than0.031 in diameter. I use it in my mill and also in my lathe when drilling really tiny holes.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

And thats about as good as it gets at my house!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> I've used that method for tuning disks many times, although I never tried it with carpet tape. Not a bad idea.
> 
> Chuck



The double sided tape is what transfers the torque. Without it, the pieces have a tendency to "slip" against the nose of the chuck and mar the part. Also, with the double sided tape you can take much heavier cuts than without it.


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## kcmillin (May 11, 2010)

Great Work. Nice save there with the missing holes.

Did/How did you calculate the necessary size and weight of the counter balance?

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> Great Work. Nice save there with the missing holes.
> 
> Did/How did you calculate the necessary size and weight of the counter balance?
> 
> Kel



I used the "thought" method. I looked at the size of the pumpjack itself, and then, I THOUGHT----Yeah, about 3" diameter looks right.!!! This thing moves so slowly that the actual weight of the counterweight is meaningless. It just has to "Look Right".


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

Kcmillin--Please forgive that previous answer I was being facetious. In all of the pictures I have seen of pumpjacks, it appeared to me that the overall width of the counterweights from side to side appeared to be roughly the same the same as the length of the horsehead. I simply used that as a visual reference to come up with the counterweight size. And as I said, the counterweights revolve so slowly that it won't really matter.


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## kcmillin (May 11, 2010)

Thanks for explaining your decision Brian. It turned out to be a good one. (As Usual).

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 11, 2010)

Of all the small steam engines I have built over the last 2 or 3 years, my version of Elmer Verburgs #33 mill engine seems to be the closest "fit" scalewise to drive the pumpjack. I will have to first finish the pumpjack and do some tests to see how much power will be required to run it, but I think this will be the one.






.


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## tel (May 13, 2010)

Good choice Brian - looks about right to my eye.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 13, 2010)

Thanks Tel---The pumpjack is on hold for the moment---After 4 weeks of no "real" work, the heavens have opened up and I have more "real" work than I can possibly do. Never rains but what it pours!!!


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## tel (May 13, 2010)

Ah well mate, you gotta grab it when you can - I'm a bit in the same sort of boat at the moment, with a few fabrication jobs on stream.

Meanwhile my Traxxas gear and pinion arrived yesterday and I found a good sized idle gear in my collection, so I might make a start on that bit (so they don't get lost) as soon as time permits.


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## tel (May 13, 2010)

Quick question tho' - your drawings just show the pump rod hanging through the base - My idea was to fit a collar and a light spring down under there out of sight so that there is some preload to keep the cables taut. Have you considered doing this?


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## Brian Rupnow (May 13, 2010)

tel  said:
			
		

> Quick question tho' - your drawings just show the pump rod hanging through the base - My idea was to fit a collar and a light spring down under there out of sight so that there is some preload to keep the cables taut. Have you considered doing this?



Oh, you sly devil, you!!! Thats exactly what I'm going to do!!! Thats why there's a thread in the bottom of the pump rod----


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## Brian Rupnow (May 14, 2010)

My customer called at 10:00 this morning and put a hold on the job while he "Sorts out some issues."---This kind of thing drives me crazy----But it did give me time to machine a couple of connecting rods and the stub shafts that attach them to the counterweights. ;D ;D


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## Brian Rupnow (May 14, 2010)

Its probably going to end up looking like this. This will let me put a spring on the underside of the pump-rod to keep some tension on the wire ropes at the horsehead while it is operating.


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## tel (May 14, 2010)

;D ;D ;D


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## mklotz (May 14, 2010)

If you want to do it up right, make the box it sits on from transparent plastic. Fill it partially with mineral oil, and use the sucker rod to operate a small pump to actually pump oil.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 14, 2010)

Marv---I have thought about that. This model is one of those which can "evolve" as it develops. I had thought more along the lines of leaving the sides in aluminum, but putting a small reservoir in the base and two pipes coming up through the top plate, near the pump rod. The one pipe would have a 180 degree hook in the top of it, and come up about half the height of the derrick. The second would have a funnel shaped top, and set perhaps 1 1/2" below the first pipe. With each stroke of the pumprod, there would be a visible "gush" of oil coming out of the pipe with the hook and dissapearing back down the funnel shaped pipe to replenish the reservoir. Of course, my main mandate for now will be to finish it more or less as shown in the model. If I like it, then I may add the pump.----Brian


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## mklotz (May 15, 2010)

Yes, all kinds of fun things are possible.

I would make the tank transparent with an inch or so of dark-colored oil on the bottom and a block of styrofoam floated on top of the oil to simulate a layer of shale overlying the oil "pool".

Have your outlet discharge oil into an open tank fitted with a standpipe overflow drain that keeps the bottom third or so of the tank filled with oil to make the pumping action more visible and realistic to the observer.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 15, 2010)

Todays offering is a base. Nothing too high tech, nor complicated here. As you can see, I lay all my holes out BEFORE I start to use the mill. I still use my edge finder and indicate all the hole positions with the table dials, but I like to know that when I go to drill a hole, its really going to be where I expect it to be. One of these days I have to buy a counterbore tool for a #5-40 shcs. I have been getting along very well using a 1/4" end mill to c'bore the holes, but I want to get the correct tool.---And while I'm buying that, I will buy a second set of hold downs for my mill table. Two are not enough----


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## Brian Rupnow (May 15, 2010)

I really like the way this is turning out.---Thought I might have trouble matching the holes in the baseplate to the tapped hole pattern in the 4 legs of the derrick, but I was a bit sly there---I built the derrick (tower) first, then made my hole pattern in the base plate to suit the tower.---And amazingly, it was very, very close to what I had originally designed!!!


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## kcmillin (May 15, 2010)

Good Work Brian. I always get Nervous when drilling hole patterns and sometimes use a dial indicator if I have to move the dials in two directions. But that limits me to 2 inches of travel. 

Great work. Thm:

Kel


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## mklotz (May 15, 2010)

> I always get Nervous when drilling hole patterns and sometimes use a dial indicator if I have to move the dials in two directions. But that limits me to 2 inches of travel.



I solved that problem by making the stop that the (permanently mounted) DI bears against a long, movable rod. When I reach the limit of the DI, I just slide the rod so the DI reads zero again, then continue my measured movement.

Admittedly, a DRO would be a lot more convenient but I'm not going to put a $500 DRO on a mill that's worth less than that. Besides, making small models, I seldom have to make a movement that exceeds two inches.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 15, 2010)

Good Lord!!! I must have been smoking rope when I designed that gear reducer housing!!! 2.5" square stock----Who am I kidding??? I am going to start on that tomorrow---MADE FROM 3 PIECES OF 3/8" PLATE bolted and pinned together. Jeez, I hate it when I do stuff like that-----


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## tel (May 16, 2010)

;D Now why did I suspect that that might be the case - tho' you did mention the alternative at the time.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 16, 2010)

I got up this morning and resolved to build a reducer housing. This is the only picture I took as an "in process shot"--Nothing too exciting here--Layout holes, set up in milling vice, and go nuts with various drills, taps, and counterbores---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 16, 2010)

And after two hours it looked like this---And this, me darlins', is starting to look pretty exciting!!! I don't often impress myself, but this is getting me pretty darned wound up. A few bushings to be turned, and then we can start with the gears and countershafts.


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## Kermit (May 16, 2010)

button head screw

Brian,
Great work on the pump jack. As a Texan I have grown up with these things, so I don't often think of them as being anything worthy of modelling. I see I am quite wrong.

I'm sure you are way ahead of me on this, but are you considering other types of fastening hardware than the socket head cap screws seen in the pictures?


Waiting to be told you have already got that covered,

Kermit


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## Brian Rupnow (May 16, 2010)

Colour me weird, if you must, but---I love Socket Head Capscrews!!!! I like the look of them, and I use them on everything I build.


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## cfellows (May 16, 2010)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Colour me weird, if you must, but---I love Socket Head Capscrews!!!! I like the look of them, and I use them on everythinbg I build.



I'm with you, Brian (except I don't spell colour that way :big. For model building, there doesn't seem to be any alternative that even comes close for cost and convenience of SHCS's. And they do look neat, especially when recessed.

Of course, I'm always open to suggestions.

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (May 16, 2010)

Chuck---Thats Canadian colour!!! ;D ;D ;D


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## mklotz (May 16, 2010)

I've often wondered why so many manufacturers of fine firearms use slotted head screws in their masterpieces. Gunsmiths have to go to great lengths to keep a myriad of specialized screwdrivers on hand lest a slip mar a client's treasured gun. Surely some form of socket head (hex, square, whatever) would provide a slip-free grip - not to mention the fact that a socket will keep the driver retained when the screw is in a difficult to access location.


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## shred (May 16, 2010)

I'm a SHCS fan too. Probably dates from my early days visiting my dad's research lab where all kinds of cool one-off equipment was festooned with the things.

As for guns... tradition dies very hard in that realm. Occasionally screws are 'timed' to line up just right ($$), and for some things the slot provides a position or torque indicator (eg: adjustable sights). Many of the internal non-visible screws and more 'modern' brands have shifted to hex-head or Torx screws though.


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## cfellows (May 16, 2010)

And another thing... have you priced a set of miniature open end wrenches? I checked into it to see if small hex head bolts were an option. I'll tell you, you can buy a lot of allen wrenches for the price of a set of good open end wrenches in the 1/8 - 3/8 size.

Chuck


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## chuck foster (May 16, 2010)

with the talent you guys have (chuck) ......... make your own open end wrenches.

oh..........and yes brian what a wonderful build you have going here, i just can't fathom how fast you go from idea to finished project :bow: :bow:

chuck


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## ironman (May 16, 2010)

Chuck, my thought also. I wanted a set but $$$$$. I made a couple that I needed but almost everything else I use SHCS. Ironman


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## tel (May 17, 2010)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> And another thing... have you priced a set of miniature open end wrenches? I checked into it to see if small hex head bolts were an option. I'll tell you, you can buy a lot of allen wrenches for the price of a set of good open end wrenches in the 1/8 - 3/8 size.
> 
> Chuck



I make most of my spanners out of - you guessed it, socket head cap screws.

To each his own, I too like those little shcs's BUT they look out of place on a period engine/machine.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

I got up early this morning and quickly whittled out a pair of brass bushings for the main counterweight shaft on my lathe. --Managed to stop and grab the camera for one "In process" shot---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

I coated the outer diameter of the bushings with loctite and installed them in the finished reducer housing. The two holes in the reducer housing were drilled and reamed in one set-up, so I know they are perfectly in line. I insert the loctite coated bushings (finger push tolerance---sliding fit) and then insert a 0.25" dia. cold rolled steel rod so that when the loctite sets up, I will be sure that the bushing bores are "in line" as well.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

The next part of this build, the Hub for the large gear, becomes a saga in itself!!! I looked at my "stock". and the only thing i had that even come close to the right size was this ugly block of aluminum, about 1 3/8" square x 1 1/4" long.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

Did that scare me???-Not a bit!!! I set the bugger up in my milling vice and drilled and reamed a 0.25" center hole, then drilled (but not tapped) the 6 holes which would be tapped #5-40 later.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

To set it up in the lathe, I needed a "drive" key to transfer the torque from the chuck to the part so I could turn it. This was accomplished by loctiting a piece of 3/32" round steel rod into one of the untapped holes.(The rod was already bent from some previous mishap). This would fit between the chuck jaws during the turning operation to be my "drive key". The part is mounted on a piece of 0.25" dia cold rolled steel shaft which extends about 2/3 of the way though the part. The steel rod is gripped in the chuck jaws and a "dead center" held in the tailstock vice is fimly seated in the side "away" from the chuck. (With a bit of white lithium grease on it to keep from burning it up.) ---Thats why the steel rod was only inserted 2/3 of the way thru---I left the last 1/3 clear to allow room for the point on the dead center.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

Ah well---The theory was good, but one "drive key" wasn't enough---it bent so badly that I then replaced it with 3 "drive keys"---That done the trick. It let me turn my "square" piece of aluminum into a round piece.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

Once I had the outer diameter turned to what I wanted, and concentric with the bore, I was able to set up in the lathe to turn both ends to the finished diameters. I was very carefull to turn the diameter which fits into the center of the gear to exact size, because it is what will locate the gear concentrically.
http://s307.photobucket.com/albums/nn294/BrianRupnow/?action=view&current=hubforlargegear008.jpg


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

And then it was time to assemble the gear to the newly created hub for a "test fit"--And ---OH $HIT!!!!!---The holes in the new center hub don't match the pattern in the gear!!! get the gun---Shoot the engineer QUICK--Now I have to figure out if I designed the part incorrectly, or if I used incorrect settngs when I drilled the holes on the mill. I'm more inclined to think I designed the part incorrectly, as I reverse engineered the pattern from the gear when I made the drawing for the hub. --Strange thing is that out of the 6 holes, two opposing holes do actually line up alright.--Investigation to follow---


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

Investigation completed.---Damned stupid machinist!!! The nylon Gear has 12 evenly spaced holes at 30 degrees between them. The drawing has 6 equally spaced holes at 60 degrees between them. The drawing is okay. I must have used the wrong offsets on the mill when I put the holes in the part. I can save the hub I made this morning by adding two holes to give a total of 4 holes with 90 degree spacing between them to match the gear.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

Fortunately, the issue has been resolved!! However, let me make myself perfectly clear. This constant bickering between the engineering office and the plant floor people simply WILL NOT BE TOLERATED!!! Any further incidences of this brought to my attention will be cause for a PLANT MEETING. --The Management.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

Alls well that ends well----The gear is in place, and looking good. I have to disassemble it yet and shorten those 4 screws up to be flush with the face of the hub because of clearance issues, but I'm happy with it.


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## SAM in LA (May 17, 2010)

Brian,

Looks like your making good progress.

It is considered normal to talk to yourself.

The time to be careful is when you argue with yourself and lose. :big: :big:

SAM


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

SAM in LA  said:
			
		

> Brian,
> 
> Looks like your making good progress.
> 
> ...



Sam---after working all my life in big manufacturing/engineering companies, I was just having a bit of fun. That "Memo" from management that I posted has probably been seen in one form or another by everyone as old as me who has worked either on the plant floor or the engineering office. That 'bickering" between engineering staff and machinists has been going on ever since Og the caveman chiselled out the first wheel 60 million years ago.---Brian


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## kcmillin (May 17, 2010)

Lookin good Brian. Almost ready to start pumpin that Texas tea :big:

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 17, 2010)

After I finished the Hub for the large gear this morning, I said "Enough!!!! No more machining today!!!"---I'm still waiting for two customers to release "Holds" on their project which I am doing the engineering on. So----I jumped in my hotrod, did a quick tour around town, stopped at my metal supplier and bought a three foot length of 1/4" cold rolled steel rod, stopped and seen my "girlfriend" who runs a hot-dog cart downtown and got a sausage on a bun,---and then come home.----and it was still only 3:00 o'clock. Damn--what will I do till my wife gets home from her job??? I know---I'll shorten up those screws on the hub I built this morning. That took half an hour. Now, lets see---might as well build another part. So, I started to machine the Pulley support pedestal. I am trying to take at least one "In process" shot of each part I make (for a possible future magazine article)---So---Here it is. Layed out, sawed to size, milled "to the lines" and marked out for holes to be drilled in the next step. Its hard to remember to stop and take a picture. I did learn a lesson this morning when I was making the hub.--DO NOT CUT 3/32" COLD ROLLED ON THE BANDSAW!!! It made a very disturbing and rather frightening noise when I did, and now the damn blade goes KA-thump, KA-thump, KA-thump when I an cutting aluminum. I haven't inspected it yet, but I'm sure I ripped a bunch of teeth out of that new Bi-metal blade I paid $50 for just last month. Some days-----


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## Brian Rupnow (May 18, 2010)

One last "In Process" shot of that "Pulley support pedestal"---Man, do I ever love my counterbore tools!!! I have to buy one for #5-40 shcs---The one shown here is for #10-24 screws.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 18, 2010)

I built the small shafts, bushings, and the pulley this morning, and realized that I hadn't shown any way of locking the pulley to the hub. Since I still have that "Longest, skinniest, .094" drill in the world, I set things up in my mill, drilled a very long skinny hole though the pulley and the shaft, and loctited a piece of .094" steel rod in the hole.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 18, 2010)

And here is what many of you have been waiting for----The Maiden run of the Pumpjack. This is not the end, by any means----I just wanted to see the darn thing work!!! The steam engine I have driving it is my big horizontal twin, mainly because I don't have a pulley set up yet on my "Elmers #33-Kind of" engine, and because I wanted the extra power from the bigger engine for my "break in" run of the pumpjack.---More to follow-----Brian


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## SAM in LA (May 18, 2010)

Brian,

Looks like your Pumpjack runs smoothly, though I didn't expect anything less. ;D

Perhaps its time to put in a requisition for a camera with video. Management should approve it. Thm:

Good luck with your oil exploration venture.

SAM


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## kcmillin (May 18, 2010)

JR Ewing would be proud. 

Looks Great, and turns over real nice too.
Well Done Thm:

Kel


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## rake60 (May 18, 2010)

Looking Great Brian! Thm:

Beautiful design brought to life.
I for one, will be looking forward to more.

Rick


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## tel (May 18, 2010)

Sweet Brian! Can't hardly wait to get cracking on my version.


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## Maryak (May 18, 2010)

Brian,

Very nice job. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## zeeprogrammer (May 18, 2010)

Nice Brian.
One of those is in my future. I've always liked their look and motion.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 18, 2010)

I can't believe what a crappy video that is---and thats with my new camera. Next time I promise a better lighted and in focus video. On the positive side, after the pumpjack had ran for an hour, I put the o-ring belt around the flywheel on "Elmers #33 kind of" and it had enough power to run it quite well, but very fast. Later this week I will make a 1" dia. pulley for the engine and get it set up properly.


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## lathe nut (May 18, 2010)

Brian, love it, again thanks for the play by play of the total job, you got the unit and now need oil, how about sending it to SW Louisiana and I will put in on a shallow well and will put the check in the mail for your share of the oil and of course rental on the unit, that would be a nice gift for some customers that I call on that have the big boys but that sure is a lot of hours to get to that point of joy, thanks again, Lathe Nut


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## T70MkIII (May 19, 2010)

Very nice build as always, Brian. What will be next?


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## Deanofid (May 19, 2010)

Fun to watch, Brian. Give it something to do, like, put it on the kitchen table pumping salad oil, or Ranch.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 19, 2010)

T70MkIII  said:
			
		

> Very nice build as always, Brian. What will be next?



Read the text with the video posting. There is still much to do with the pumpjack before I consider moving on to something else.----Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (May 19, 2010)

This is the engine that will ultimately power the pumpjack. It is based on Elmer Verburgs #33 mill engine, and is a single cylinder, double acting engine---and as you can see, it currently has no pulley on it.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 19, 2010)

This is a pulley I just designed for it. Of course I want the pulley to be as small as possible in diameter to give a favourable ratio between it and the pumpjack pulley---BUT-- there is a caveat in doing that. If you make the pulley too small in diameter, it won't have enough contact area with the drive belt, and consequently won't have enough friction surface to drive the pumpjack.---It will just slip and spin. I'm going to take a stab at it and make a pulley as shown. Mainly because it "Looks about right" scale wise, and the fact that I have some 1" round brass and aluminum in my scrap bin.--Not much science here, but it should work.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 19, 2010)

And of course, here's what it looks like with the pulley on it.--This will be kind of a pain, because I will have to partially disassemble the engine to put the drive belt on it, ----but when I built the engine, I hadn't planned on driving anything with it. I know that I could "add on" to the outer face of the flywheel and put a pulley there, but for the sake of aesthetics, I would rather have the pulley where have shown it in the model.


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## tel (May 19, 2010)

You probably have enough width in that flywheel to turn down a pulley on the outboard end Brian


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## twineman (May 19, 2010)

Do you have enough room to move the flywheel to the inside and put the pulley on the outside where the flywheel is now?
You may have to mill a slot in the base for the flywheel to fit but it would save a lot of time in putting on and removing belts.
Just my cent & a half.

Allen


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## Brian Rupnow (May 19, 2010)

Well acturly---Those o-ring belts last forever on a model. I have to disassemble things anyways to put the pulley on, so I'll put the belt on at the same time. Those o-rings will stretch like a bugger and not lose their original "memory" for length, so they are pretty forgiving as far as selecting the "correct length" goes..


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## kcmillin (May 19, 2010)

Brian, are you talking about run of the mill hardware store o-rings? Or the special purpose belt o-ring?

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 19, 2010)

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> Brian, are you talking about run of the mill hardware store o-rings? Or the special purpose belt o-ring?
> 
> Kel



Just your typical black urethane (looks like rubber) o-ring.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 19, 2010)

In this plan view looking directly down on top of the pumpjack and motor, you can see my reasoning for wanting to keep the pulley in the position I showed it, rather on the outside of the flywheel.---This centers the engine and pumpjack and lets me keep them on a common 3 1/2" base.


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## tel (May 21, 2010)

Fair enough, a pretty tidy solution.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 21, 2010)

Come and listen to a story 'bout a man named Jed----I'm starting to feel like I could be pumping that black gold, Texas tea, any day now!!! I'm up to my ears in engineering work, but took a few minutes tonight to whittle out a pulley and put it on my "Elmers #33---Kind of" engine. I wanted to be sure that it had enough grunt to drive the pumpjack, but no worries---It drives it just fine on my "Test bench".---Now if I can just find time, I will start on the base, pumprod, and wire rope harness.


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## tel (May 21, 2010)

All is forgiven matey, that pulley worked out just fine.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 21, 2010)

Tel----I always get it right!!!----eventually ;D ;D ;D


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## SAM in LA (May 21, 2010)

Brian,

Looking good.

SAM


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## Kermit (May 21, 2010)

You make it seem as easy as falling off a log Brian. 

Wonderful seeing it all come together. Great job, and great news on the business situation.


Kermit


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## Brian Rupnow (May 22, 2010)

I made some time this afternoon to machine the "riser plates" which elevate the pumpjack base off the main baseplate by 2 1/2". I did not provide drawings of these plates in the download package, because at the time I made the drawings I hadn't got this far ahead in the thought process, and because everybody who builds a pumpjack from my plans will probably have their own ideas of how to mount it to a base. There is nothing too special about these two plates, but for sake of an "in process" shot, here they are set up in the mill vice being tapped. I have also included a couple of pictures of my "Poor mans vice stop" that I cobbled together out of some angle scrap, so that I could deadend the plates against them, thus ensuring that the holes would be a consistent 3/8" in from the ends without having to measure it every time.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 23, 2010)

Well, we're almost there!!! I got up this beautifull spring morning and swore that I wasn't going to machine anything on such a lovely day------Then went downstairs and finbished the main baseplate?????? It runs, it runs very well. All thats left is the pump rod and bushing and the wire rope harness and bits, which I should get to this week. then I will make a better vido (I promise), and this project will be finished.---Brian


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## lathe nut (May 23, 2010)

Brian, I will get the polish rod and the stuffing box to tie on to the casing and a lease, couple trucks and a crain and we will be set up to be in the oil business, start slow and get used to the business before you go internationls, lathe nut


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## Brian Rupnow (May 24, 2010)

Well, I'm almost there. I don't have any #6-32 set screws to hold the wire rope in the brass wire rope block untill the stores open tomorrow.----and I'm not 100% sure about my wire rope. Its pretty stiff for a model. I may resort to having to get some butchers cord and dye it black to get the flexibility I need for this thing to operate correctly.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 24, 2010)

Actually, I just had a thought--Its pretty hard to purchase 6" of woven stainless steel cable, but my dad was a great fisheman (I'm not), and many of his "leaders" for his larger fishing lures was made of a very fine, flexible, stainless steel cable. Maybe tomorrow when I'm out picking up set screws I will drop by the fishing tackle shop and check it out!!!


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## bearcar1 (May 24, 2010)

Brian, you might investigate any bicycle shops in your area, (brake and derailer cable) or even perhaps an auto parts outlet (hood releases, throttle cable). These may be too large in strand count for what you are seeking but is another avenue to follow in chasing down materials.
I would suggest a dentist or orthodontist but the wire they use for braces etc. is most likely much too small.

BC1
Jim


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## Brian Rupnow (May 24, 2010)

Thanks Bearcar---There is a bicycle shop on the way to my nut and bolt store where I buy my set screws---I'll pay them a visit tomorrow.


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## tel (May 24, 2010)

I have a roll fo stuff here that might be suitable - if you run into trouble holler.


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## SAM in LA (May 24, 2010)

Brian,

I have seen the small diameter SS cable at Home Depot. You buy it by the foot.

SAM


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## putputman (May 24, 2010)

Brian, how about that braided fish line that was used before monofilement line showed up. Some of us in the North (not quite as far North as you) still use it. It is strong, limber, and black, and you probably won't run that pump until the oil shows up so it is strong enough.

By the way, I have followed this post from the beginning and have enjoyed it. You should have a lot of fun with the pump. Been waiting for you to finish before I start mine. 

It seems that everytime you show someone an engine, they say "what does it do". Now you can show them. You are preparing for retirement by pumping oil.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 25, 2010)

I went by the bicycle shop this morning and picked up some beautifull stainless stranded cable.--But---Although it works, it simply has too much "memory". If I want it to hang properly (as in straight down from where it is supported by the "Horsehead" then I have to increase the spring which pulls the pumprod down---to a point where the drive belt slips or the steam engine simply runs out of power and everything stalls. My next effort will be to try and find some nice black "string" to act as my wire rope. It will be very flexible, with no "memory" like the steel cable has, so will look a lot more "realistic" when the pump is operating. I need something just slightly less than 1/16", which is the width of the slots in the Horsehead.


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## bearcar1 (May 25, 2010)

That is too bad about the cable Brian. I didn't think about the method that it is packaged in the stores. (coiled up in about a 4" coil) It does have a tendency to take a 'set' after a period of time. Most of that type of cable can be soldered with soft solder, perhaps you could extend a piece out straight and 'gently' wick some solder into the strands enough to make it stiff enough not to want to re-coil. Also I wonder if hanging a weight from the ceiling by a long piece before it is cut off and the application of some mild heat would allow the strands to relax enough to get it to straighten out. Otherwise, as PutPutman suggested, very heavy fishing line or leader should work. 

BC1
Jim


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## Brian Rupnow (May 25, 2010)

Bearcar---No, thats not what I meant. If you look closely at the way these pumpjacks work, the cable is constantly flexing as the horsehead goes up and down. It is always coming off tangent to the circumferance of the horsehead. On a full sized rig, there is enough weight in the pumprod to always keep the cables pulled tight against the face of the horsehead. On a little model like mine, even with an extremely flexible cable, you can't put enough "weight" on the cables to make it lay flat against the horsehead without stalling the engine.--So you end up with a "hump" in the cable where it comes off the horsehead which just doesn't look right. I found some heavy string and died it black with liquid shoepolish---its outside right now drying in the sun. Later today, I'll try it with that.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (May 25, 2010)

This is proving to be more difficult than I thought it would!!! The string blackened with shoe polish works fine---bends the way its supposed to and doesn't hump up---but---I am not having a lot of luck with the spring which pulls the pump-rod down, to keep tension on the string. The trouble with compression springs is that they have a limited range of movement from "locked up solid--fully compressed with no space left between the coils" to "fully expanded to greatest length". and--they are not consistent in the force they apply--a spring just about at full expansion has very little "power", whereas a spring at "nearly full compression" has quite a lot of power.--This inconsistency of pull on the strings is giving me grief. It runs perfect if I apply a constant "push" on top of the pumprod while its running.--This sparked plan B---Remove the spring and put a weight on the end of the pump-rod, thus giving a consistent downforce. Another problem is that the rod wants to rotate as it goes up and down, and the strings offer no resistance to that, so after running for 3 or 4 minutes my nice "wire rope" harness looks more like a twist-tie!!!! Now Plan B has a few "Gotchas".---The biggest one being that my "Horsehead" travels 2.5" vertically---and the risers under the pumpjack base are 2 1/2" bars. Thus---the nice pocket that you see here milled 0.350 deep in the main base palte. My old brain is sizzling tonight---If I make the "weight" 1/16" narrower than the space between the "riser bars", than it should also prevent the pumprod from rotating. (It will be attached to the end of the pump-rod" with a counterbored #5 socket head cap screw.) The weight itself will be a steel or brass bar, 1 3/8" x 5/16" thick x 2 11/16" long with the counterbored hole in the center. This while I am trying to work two design contracts at the same time. Arghhh!!!


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## bearcar1 (May 25, 2010)

Ah! yes, yes, now I understand the problem. And it sounds like you are close to having a fix to correct it. Can't wait to see it "working under pressure". 

BC1
Jim


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## kcmillin (May 25, 2010)

NIce work around Brian. Very good idea. If it were me, (and it aint) I would go with the steel bar, brass is kinda spendy to be hiding in the base, and not much heavier.

Kel


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## Brian Rupnow (May 26, 2010)

Found out a couple of things today. Firstly, the string idea works well, but I will need to find a better quality string than my butchers cord.---Perhaps good quality black fishing line. Secondly, the weight as opposed to a spring on the pump-rod really does work great, with the added benefit that it keeps the pump-rod from rotating---You can see it (just barely) on the bottom of the pump-rod in the picture.--And thirdly---the riser bars are going to have to be increased from 2 1/2" high to 3" high to give enough room for the weight to travel thru its full up to full down position and not catch or bind on anything. Biggest problem right now is I simply don't have any time to work on it.


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## agr (May 26, 2010)

Brian,

Have you considered the use of high strand copper cable in place of the steel/string? 
Quality Multimeter test leads are typically a high strand count, high flex cable, especially those manufactured with silicon rather than PVC sheaths. Some of this can have over 600 strands in a cable only 2.4mm diameter, such as http://au.farnell.com/mc-multi-contact/61-7610-25/wire-silicon-green-2-50mm-5m/dp/4326994



With the sheath stripped off, and the copper painted, it would give the appearance of a multi-strand steel cable and I doubt it would have the memory/rigidity of steel.

The only issue may be the work hardening of the copper over time, but I have seen my fair share of multimeter leads that have been used and abused by electricians for many years without failure. 

Perhaps your local electronics supplier may have an inexpensive test lead kit or hopefully sell it by the metre/foot. 

Tony.


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## Brian Rupnow (May 31, 2010)

I haven't abandoned the project---I've just been extremely busy with my "Real Job". I've got the pumpjack running just beautifull!!! I had to change the riser bars between the main baseplate and the baseplate on the pumpjack from 2 1/2" to 3" in order to get room for full travel of my suspended weight, and after searching all over for some good, flexible cord to be my wire rope harness, I stopped today at a shoe repair shop, and they gave me a couple of foot of their strongest black sewing thread used for shoe repair. It looks good, and runs very smoothly. I will be posting a newer (and I hope better) video within the next 24 hours.----Brian


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## SAM in LA (May 31, 2010)

Brian,

I'm looking forward to watching your pumpjack run.

SAM


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## Brian Rupnow (May 31, 2010)

And here we have the final act----A good video. I had to phone my daughter and have her bring her camera over, as my own camera is not focusing well for some reason. Thank you to all the folks who dropped in to see how things were going on this long project, and I urge you to download the plans I provided and build one. It is not a terribly complex build, and it certainly is a good match for Elmer Verburg size engines.----Brian


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## hobby (May 31, 2010)

That is one beutiful working model.

Nice work, and a great thread to follow.

Thanks for sharing this build with us.


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## T70MkIII (Jun 1, 2010)

Very nice indeed, Brian.


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## gbritnell (Jun 1, 2010)

A very nice build Brian as per your usual work. It always makes it more interesting to see an engine powering something. 
George


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## tel (Jun 3, 2010)

> and I urge you to download the plans I provided and build one.



OK Brian, still held up on resuming the oscillator so I'm taking you at your word.

A start made on the horsehead (as that seemed the trickiest bit) and the beam. For some reason I got it stuck in my head that I wanted the beam to be an 'I' beam, so that has introduced a few complications, however, they seem to be sorting themselves out. Had to mill the 'I' beam from a bit of brass, then devise a way of holdin beam and horsehead together.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 3, 2010)

Good on you Tel---You are the first of what I hope will be many to build this one.---Brian


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## tel (Jun 3, 2010)

It's a good design Brian, and 'things to drive' are always in demand - you should have no trouble getting some builders for it.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 6, 2010)

One final bit of information, for anyone who considers building a pumpjack, using the gears which I specified. The "optimum" center to center distance for the two small pinion gears seems to be 0.355". The center to center distance on the large 72 tooth gear and the small pinion gear driving it is 1.317", and the overall ratio from the steam engine driving to the counterweight shaft works out to about 18.5:1----Brian


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## tel (Jun 7, 2010)

Thanks Brian, tho mine will be a bit different - I've got the same big gear, but a 9t pinion and a 14t idler wheel. The ratio will be somewhat lower and the centres different.

On another note, that wire 'rope' I have is looking promising, the trick is to kink it where it goes around the post, and then kink both legs downwards, up close to the first kink - looks to be riding the grooves well with very little weight applied.


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## SAM in LA (Jul 13, 2010)

Brian,

I found this pump jack today and thought you might like to see it.

http://www.timberkitsus.com/shopexd.asp?id=25

I do not have any ties to this company, just sharing this novelty.

SAM


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 13, 2010)

Thanks Sam---thats cute!! Tel--what progress are you making on yours?--Brian


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## lathe nut (Jul 13, 2010)

Brain good to hear from you, know that you are busy that is good for food, lights and a happy woman but don't forget about us, take care, Lathe Nut


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## pickstock (Mar 30, 2011)

got directed to this post by another, looks really good.
might try and do it when i get around to it


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 8, 2015)

There has been a flurry of interest in this pumpjack article I did a few years ago, so I am posting here to bring it forward for all those who expressed an interest.--and here is a link to a download of all the drawings.
http://www.mediafire.com/download/zhdukxw2ef2/PUMPJACK_PDF_FILES.ZIP

-Brian---June--2015


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## Jyman (Jun 9, 2015)

Thanks Brian,

It truly is a beautiful model, its definitely on my list of models to make. and being out here in Alberta it's just like watching the real thing.


Jonathan


Sent from my iPhone using Model Engines


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## jimjam66 (Jun 11, 2015)

Thanks Brian - yet ANOTHER on my 'must try' list.  Given how long the list is getting I may not trouble you with it for another decade or so!


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 26, 2016)

There has been a bit of interest shown lately in this build, and it seems that all of the old videos are missing. I took this down off a shelf this morning and made a new video of it running. It's a bit dusty, but other than that it runs as good adss the day I finished it.---Brian
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ObAfMrkiif8&feature=youtu.be[/ame]


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## jimsshop1 (Nov 30, 2016)

Hi Brian,

  Somehow I found this thread. I have been in the oil business for 15 years now and am retiring at the end of this year and hope to continue building engines in my small shop. Would you happen to still have these plans for the pump Jack? I have always wanted to build one and I really like the way yours turned out.

Respectfully,

Jim


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 4, 2016)

jimsshop1 said:


> Hi Brian,
> 
> Somehow I found this thread. I have been in the oil business for 15 years now and am retiring at the end of this year and hope to continue building engines in my small shop. Would you happen to still have these plans for the pump Jack? I have always wanted to build one and I really like the way yours turned out.
> 
> ...


email me at [email protected] and identify yourself and what you want. I will send you the plans.---Brian


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