# 1/6 Galloway engine



## gbritnell (Feb 24, 2011)

Gentlemen, 
Having finished the 1/3 scale Galloway engine just after the first of the year I started on the 1/6 engine. If you had been following the build thread on the 1/3 you realize some of the problems I went through with the drawings and castings, well this one isn't much better. The drawings are the biggest problem. As they should be 1/2 of the 1/3 scale engine you would have thought it would an easy scale down, except for the fasteners, well they aren't. Well some are and some aren't. 
Enough griping!
I have all of the castings machined, just the carburetor remains. Most of the fabricated and machined parts are finished. I didn't start a thread on this one as it replicates what was done on the 1/3 engine. 
The first couple of pictures show the keyway being cut in the crankshaft. It is 1/16 (.062) wide. The crankshaft is made from drill rod and I didn't want to use a small endmill so I opted for this setup. 
For the life of me I don't understand why the tailstocks for dividing heads have hinged joints. The tailstock came with the dividing head, why don't they just make them with the same centerlines. 
gbritnell


----------



## gbritnell (Feb 24, 2011)

The last two day were taken up building the igniter. One of the fellows who built a Galloway sent me some pictures of his igniter after some use. There was a lot of rust in the igniter pocket in the cylinder and on the point arms. With this small one I decided to make the igniter arms from brass. The points are pieces of tungsten rod from my TIG welder. They are silver soldered to the arms. The conical spring was a real joy to make. The I.D. of the big end is .125 and the small end is .093. The length is about .200. The wire is .014 diameter. I drilled an .018 diameter hole in the trip arm for the end of the spring. 
If anyone is contemplating building one of these 1/6 engines be prepared to do some tiny work or else convert it to a spark plug ignition. 
George


----------



## Metal Butcher (Feb 24, 2011)

Super nice job on the igniter George! :bow:

I didn't realize it would be smaller than a dime. oh:

-MB


----------



## Jasonb (Feb 27, 2011)

Thanks George, I have the 1/6th kit to make at some time hopefully before my eyesight starts to go.

When are you starting on the 1/8th version ;D

J


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

It's been awhile since I posted on this thread so I thought I would update you with a picture presentation. The machining was straight forward on most of the components, milling, drilling, boring etc. As anyone who builds and documents the build knows, it becomes time intensive to chronicle all the machining steps. I apologize to the fellows just starting out but I have a deadline to machine these engine to and really couldn't spend the extra time to take pictures of all the machine setups, edit them and get them posted. In the meantime I had to redo the complete drawing set in Autocad and try to get some time in on my transmission. There's just never enough time. 
Anyway I finished the engine, took it apart and photographed all the parts while reassembling it. I will give a brief description with the pictures so that anyone who is building one of these or contemplating building one will have a good idea of what it looks like along the way.
The first 4 show the water hopper and cylinder assembled.
George


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

The next four are of the base or crankcase. After the initial machining I found some dimensional errors on the drawings and was lucky enough to be able to patch the area and save the work that I had done.


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

One last shot of the base. The next is the piston, pin and small end of the connecting rod. The rings are .875 diameter and came from Coles. It was much less expensive to buy them than to make them. The next pic is cylinder with the water hopper removed. I had it together earlier but when I got ready to assemble it to the base I couldn't get the drill into the oiling hole to line the two pieces up so I removed it. You can see into the water jacket area that is cored out of the casting. The cylinder casting is aluminum and is bored for an iron sleeve.


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

The next four show the cylinder mounted to the base from different angles. Two of the pictures show the igniter installed. The cylinder was size for size with the bore in the base and the two were loctited together. Along with the oil pin hole I put some blueing on the two parts and with everything lined up a scribed a reference line.


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

The next 3 show the crankshaft and connecting rod. The crank is a built up piece. The crank webs are machined and reamed and then the crank pin is pressed in place. The mainshaft is then slid through the webs and the whole thing is silver soldered. Afterward the extra material is machined from between the webs. The last photo shows the piston at TDC and the location of the spark port in the side of the cylinder bore.


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

Picture 1 shows the drip lubricator. This was built from the supplied drawings.
Picture 2 shows the trip arm mounted on the pushrod. The drawing called for a spring under the nose of the trip arm, .010 wire, .06 diameter. That would make the mandrel smaller than .04. I didn't even want to try it so I came up with my own design for this. 
Picture 3 shows the governor yoke arm. This is a fabrication with the pieces silver soldered together.
Picture 4 shows the end of the pushrod with the roller wheel. If you look in front of the roller wheel you can see the patch that I had to put in to correct the drawing error. This is where the lock arm mounts.


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

This picture shows the cylinder head with the bronze rocker post. This is a hollow piece with the intake valve sitting underneath it. You can see the cotter pin which holds the keeper in place protruding from the slot in the side of the rocker post.


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

The next 4 pictures show the lockout arm mounted. The drawing design called for a post on the arm which you see and another post mounted on the base casting below where you see the end of the brass arm. Having never seen the actual engine built I can't say that making spring that small wasn't possible but like the trip arm it just isn't feasible so here again I came up with an alternative design. I drilled and tapped the top pushrod bracket hole all the way through. I then made a special bolt with 2-56 threads on the upper end to hold the pushrod bracket and on the outer end I threaded it 1/72 to accept the brass arm and a nut. This gives a little more room for mounting a spring and can also be adjusted by bending the arm if necessary.
On the Galloway engines the governor weight moves a spool on the crankshaft. This spool is hooked to the yoke arm which in turn pushes a rod through the center of the cam bushing. The inboard end of the rod moves the lock arm which engages with the catch on the pushrod. It seems like the other types of engines had a much simpler setup but it's possible that there were patent issues so Galloway came up with this.


----------



## gbritnell (Mar 23, 2011)

The final 4 pictures show the engine completely assembled. All that's left to do is plumb the fuel line to the carb. The drawings show nothing about this so I have to come up with my own. Being as the tank is above the carb I will need to make some kind of shut-off valve for it. I have already soldered a threaded bushing into the tank to take the valve. I'm debating about making a union for the line to make it easier to take the whole thing apart. Next week the engine will go to Roy Scholl at S&S so he can develop a buzz coil for the igniter. The plan is to make an adapter so that a spark plug can be used in place of the igniter. The size of this igniter can be quite a daunting task for some builders so the new owners would like to offer the option of using a spark plug. This will mean making some type of trip to operate the ignition. 
Now only 2 more to go, the 1/4 scale and the 1/8. 
George


----------



## Jasonb (Mar 24, 2011)

Thanks for taking the time to post all those photos, I'll be saving them all for when I get round to doing mine.

Would it be possible to have a copy of your drawing revisions, my plans have a few corrections marked in red but I'm sure that does not cover all the items

Jason


----------



## cfellows (Mar 24, 2011)

Beautiful work, as usual, George. I'm particlarly impressed with the igniter!

Chuck


----------



## JorgensenSteam (Mar 24, 2011)

Thanks very much for the great photos.
Those are helpful.

Pat J


----------



## Metal Butcher (Mar 24, 2011)

Congratulations George! First class work! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

The person that ends up owning this engine will be very lucky!

Only two more? Why not build a fifth one for your own collection? With all the practice your getting it should be a breeze! ;D

-MB


----------



## lordedmond (Mar 24, 2011)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Gentlemen,
> Having finished the 1/3 scale Galloway engine just after the first of the year I started on the 1/6 engine. If you had been following the build thread on the 1/3 you realize some of the problems I went through with the drawings and castings, well this one isn't much better. The drawings are the biggest problem. As they should be 1/2 of the 1/3 scale engine you would have thought it would an easy scale down, except for the fasteners, well they aren't. Well some are and some aren't.
> Enough griping!
> I have all of the castings machined, just the carburetor remains. Most of the fabricated and machined parts are finished. I didn't start a thread on this one as it replicates what was done on the 1/3 engine.
> ...



Well as to the rotary table tail stocks they are usually made for two sizes e.g. 4 and 6 inch, but having the TS adjustable helped me today I needed to flute some tapered columns for a engine I am building being able to adjust the TS to suit the angle of the packed up RT gave me the support required

Good work on the engine and the documentation

Stuart


----------

