# Mamod Roadster convertion Mk.2 A 'Mamod Morgan 3 wheeler'.



## Tony Bird (Aug 5, 2013)

HMEM Mamod Roadster Conversion Mk.2 a Mamod Morgan 3 wheeler.

Hi,

In December of 2012 in the Finished Projects section of HMEM I started a thread titled A Model Steam Car Modified. The thread described work done on a Mamod Roadster which eventually went a bit OTT, the Roadster ending up with not only R/C steering but an R/C forward/reverse regulator and gas firing as well!

A video of the Mk1 Roadster performance.




The Roadster performs really well but does have a problem with traction as the drive is through only one of its rear wheels and there is no suspension to talk of.  If the surface it is running on isnt particulary flat the drive wheel can leave the ground and loose traction.  I had mentioned to several people that if  I were to alter another Roadster I would make it a 3 wheeler rather like a Morgan.  A few weeks later a friend presented me with a Mamod Roadster that looked as if it had had a hard and interesting life, several bits were missing the seat with its support, safety valve, flywheel and spring drive belts. It also looked as if it had survived a major fire, which probably destroyed its plastic seat, but there was more than enough left for the modifications I wished to make.

Photographs of  Mk.2 as received.




TheMk.1 Roadster hadnt had headlights when received so had had some made for it, these were replaced by headlights supplied by Mk.2.  The headlights removed were used on Mk.2.

Photographof Mk.1 Roadster with original Mamod headlights fitted along with another recent addition a pressure gauge.





As most of the construction was covered in the previous thread this thread will only show for the most part the things that are different.  It also wont be very quick as it is being done around other jobs.  The Mk.2 Roadster was first taken apart and cleaned.  As with the Mk.1 Roadster the firebox has been fitted with soldered nuts which allow it to be taken apart easily.  There was a dry run to see what it would look like as a 3 wheeler. 

Photographsof Mk2 converted to a three-wheel vehicle.





Some thought was given to the design and construction, with a wheel and all its transmission inside the chassis and a shorter wheelbase there wouldnt be as much room as there was in Mk1 Roadster for the R/C.  While working on other projects I looked and thought about what to do regarding the appearance of the Mamod/Morgan.  I had been on the web and was unable to find a steam powered Morgan to copy, however there were plenty of photographs of competition Morgans from the 1920s and 30s.  So it was decided to make a sports version of a Morgan.

When making Mk.1 sums had been done regarding the gear ratio to be use.  The Mamod before conversion had a gear reduction of about 18:1 having done some sums regarding replacing the single acting engine with a 5/16 (8mm) bore and ¾ (19mm) stroke giving a swept volume of 955 cu mm.  The replacement a twin double acting engine with a bore of 5/16 (8mm) and stroke of 15/32(12mm) giving a swept volume of 2412 cu mm about 2.5 times grater than the single.  A gear ratio of a little less than 9:1 was eventually decided on which worked well, the boiler producing enough steam for continuous running and the model could even managing small slopes.  But Mk.1 is heavy having a dry weight (with no water, batteries or gas) of 5.75lbs or about 2.6kgs, so a lightweight version is to be tried. 

This second Mamod donor model is an earlier version than the first I think, it had a higher gear ratio of about 13:1 and a different pulley arrangement.  So the alterations to the model will be to make it as light as possible with perhaps a means of altering its gear ratios.  The original wheels though attractive to look at are quite heavy 4.25 ozs or 120grms each.  A visit the local model shop produced for a total of less than £3 some plastic wheels of the same size and the 3 of them only weighing a total of  5.25ozs about 150grms, a big saving in weight.  The new plastic front wheels are fitted with brass bearings and the driving wheel is fitted to a chain sprocket.

Mk.2 with plastic wheels.


 

The gear reduction of Mk.2 like the one used on Mk.1 is done in three stages.  A primary from the engine using spur gears to a off-set propeller shaft, a intermediate gear consisting of a contrate wheel driven from a pinion mounted on the propeller shaft, the final drive is by a sprocket and chain to the wheel.  All the gears used are from Meccano.  The primary drive gear ratio, which will be difficult to alter,  but it will be easy to alter the ratios of the secondary and final drives. 

Wheel depthing without a depthing tool or direct measurement.







Primary drive.




Secondary drive.




Final drive.




Where possible the gears and sprockets have been lightened and aluminium has been used to reduce weight.  More to follow.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 5, 2013)

Hi,

As Morgan have a wide front wheel track relative to their length aluminium extension pieces were added to the chassis.

Photograph of extension piece.




Then the mudguards were cut down and fitted with the headlights of Mk.1.

Photograph of mudguards with headlights fitted to the chassis.
 



Photograph of Mk.1 and Mk.2 to date.





To make it easier for the driver the see the gauge glass on the boiler it was turned around and to improve the boilers efficiency it was fitted with 34 hedgehog spikes. 

Photograph of boiler.


 

After the boiler was tested and painted it was heated using Sterno as a fuel to power a small double acting oscillating engine. The boiler when enclosed and fired by gas will produce a lot more steam.   A Goodall type water top up valve has been fitted to the top of the boiler. 

Video of boiler and engine. 




Photograph of the boiler fitted to the chassis. 




As an added convenience for the driver the vehicle has been made LHD so it is easier to reach the regulator/reversing lever, which also means there will bemore room for the R/C and to this same end the propeller shaft has also been moved to the same side as well.  The steering wheel has been lowered in keeping with it being a sports car.  A start has been made on there regulator/reversing block and a rear mudguard fitted. 

Photographsof how the model looks today.













Further progress when made will be posted.

Regards Tony.


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## Rivergypsy (Aug 5, 2013)

WOW!!! I like that very, very much - well done!

Time to start scouring EBay for a roadster i think ;D


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## Tony Bird (Oct 14, 2013)

Hi,

After quite a long break some more work has been done on the Roadster. There had been a bit of a problem with finding space for the R/C on the first Roadster converted and the second one has even less space due to its rear wheel within the body. So it was decided to start positioning the parts of the R/C equipment especially the servos. When the Mamod Roadster arrived its seat and its support was missing and it was thought to fabricate a replacement, however with the shortage of space it was decided to use a replacement Mamod seat and its support along with part of the original rear body. The body for the reversing/regulator valve was machined and fitted where the original engine had been fitted which is as it was done on the previous Roadster that was altered.




To save a bit more space and allow the seat to me positioned further forward the reversing/regulator valve was moved further forward. The photograph shows this done with the new seat and its support just resting on the body.





The seat and its support was to be positioned on the original Roadster rear body which was to house the reversing regulator servo but the body was too high and long so it was cut down and its parts soldered together again.






























 Next job is to figure out where the steering servo should go and the position of the gas tank has yet to be resolved.  Still thinking... 

Regards Tony.


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## jwcnc1911 (Oct 14, 2013)

This is looking so cool to me!  Seeing fcheslop's tractor (on another site) and this car is realy making me look for one to build.  It will be Stirlung powered tho.

Pretty ingenious way to add a suspension to that rigid frame, storing a mental note there.  Nice work on the gears.  Where did you find the chain?

Nice work, have you considered designing one yourself?

Also, where do you find these cars?  I'd like to get my hands on a few.


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## ddmckee54 (Oct 14, 2013)

What fuel are you using?  If it's alcohol, a nice polished brass tank sitting across the frame behind the seat would look nice and fit in with the period of the car.  Of course that tank position would be considered insane today.

Don


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## Tony Bird (Oct 15, 2013)

Hi JW,

*This is looking so cool to me! Seeing fcheslop's tractor (on another site) and this car is really making me look for one to build. It will be Stirling powered though.*

Yes Frazer is a fine modeller. A Stirling powered car sounds interesting.

*Pretty ingenious way to add a suspension to that rigid frame, storing a mental note there. Nice work on the gears. Where did you find the chain?*

The suspension is original I just fitted extension pieces to enlarge the track. The gears, sprockets and chain are Mecanno products


*Nice work, have you considered designing one yourself?*

Not really this is just a bit of fun, mostly I make steam locomotives for use on garden railways.


*Also, where do you find these cars? I'd like to get my hands on a few. *

New from www.mamod.co.uk or other suppliers at the moment the Mamod Roadster retails at £218.00 or less. Used examples are a lot less the one I was given which was in a very poor state would not have cost much.

Hi Don,

*What fuel are you using? If it's alcohol, a nice polished brass tank sitting across the frame behind the seat would look nice and fit in with the period of the car. Of course that tank position would be considered insane today.*

Butane gas and the Mk.1 Roadster was similarly power and had its gas tank behind the seat. It was painted black to absorb any heat to help vaporise the gas as the tank was a long way from the boilers heat.

Video of Mk.1 with just a ceramic heater fitted before it had its major alterations,  It is powered by its original one single acting cylinder. 







Regards Tony.


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## ddmckee54 (Oct 16, 2013)

Where are you planning on running the exhaust line from the reversing/regulator?  If you're concerned about the tank not being warm enough, maybe you could loop it under the tank as a pre-heater.

Don


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## Tony Bird (Oct 18, 2013)

Hi Don,

*Where are you planning on running the exhaust line from the reversing/regulator? If you're concerned about the tank not being warm enough, maybe you could loop it under the tank as a pre-heater.*


What a good idea! I've made cooling coils for electric motors and feed water heaters for boilers so why not a heating system for gas tanks? I often use a hollow stay through my gas tanks as a means of holding them so why not pass the exhaust through one. As I mostly make model GR locomotives in '0' gauge the problem of refrigeration of the gas tanks doesn't occur waste heat from the boiler sees to that. I will think more on your idea.

Many thanks.

Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Oct 30, 2013)

Hi,

I have done a bit more to the Roadster conversion, it doesn't look a lot but it took some time. Realised that the gears that will be behind the engine obscure one of the engine mounting screws so smaller gears with about the same ratio were fitted.

From this.





To this.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Nov 15, 2013)

Hi,

Fort a change from water gauges, boilers and repairing the workshop floor I thought I would do a little more to the Roadster. First unnecessary holes were filled in the chassis with epoxy glue, spacers replaced the hexagonal nuts in the transmission and the two servos, receiver and On/Off switch have been fitted in the seat support.














Further finishing will be require after more work has been done.






The centres of these spacers will be relieved.

















Next is to figure out where the gas tank and batteries will go.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Nov 19, 2013)

Hi,

I have done a little more to the Roadster. With a bit of surgery which effected the paint work managed to get the two servos, switch, receiver and batteries into the seat and its support. The propeller shaft is now shrouded to protect the wiring. Now the R/C is sorted out it means that the gas tank can be fitted on a bracket behind the seat as in the Mk.1 conversion. This means that it will not be necessary to fit a rear body and the spare wheel can be dumped. I don't think sports versions of the 3 wheel Morgan had a spare wheel anyway maybe just tyre levers and a puncture repair outfit! Any way the lack of rear body and spare wheel will reduce weight. So far Mk.2 weighs 1.6kg about 3.5lbs against the Mk.1's dry finished weight of 2.60kg about 5.75lbs.

Modified R/C installation.





Propeller shaft cover K&S brass tube.





Mk.2 Roadster to date.






Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Nov 19, 2013)

Hello again,

A couple more of 'Work to date' photographs.










Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Dec 2, 2013)

Hi,

Happy with the R/C installation and the gas tank finished and tested, some bits have been painted and transfers used. The insides of the front wheels have been cut away to allow the king pins to line up with the centre of the tyres thus reducing the load on the steering servo.

















SWMBO's comment that from above it looks like a cooked lobster was treated with the contempt it deserved.  I don't expect that I will find time to do anymore work on the Roadster until well into the New Year.

Regards Tony.

Regards Tony.


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## 110samec (Dec 2, 2013)

nice name you chose for it as well, bird special


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## Tony Bird (Dec 22, 2013)

Hi,

Well I have managed to a bit more work on 'Bird' Special which has been mostly cosmetic. After a certain amount of butchery a driver has been persuaded to fit, I think with the addition of hat, scarf and goggles Mr Tarrant will do. I wasn't very happy with the appearance of the rear end of the Special which has now been cut off, so the driving wheel with sprocket now rotates on the axle which has become a chassis spacer. Doing this also saved a few grams of weight!










Mk.1 Roadster and the Mk.2 Special.










I wish all the members of HMEM a Great Christmas and a Health New Year.

Regards Tony.


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## 110samec (Dec 22, 2013)

Its looking good


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## Rivergypsy (Dec 30, 2013)

Very nice work and a Happy New Year to you too


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## Tony Bird (Mar 28, 2014)

Hi,

Its almost three months since any work was done on the Roadster.  Most of the time being spent get models ready for a new season of playing.  Yesterday after hopefully repairing a leak in the roof of the trailer that will be used to transport our 16mm layout to Peterborough in a couple of weeks time; a little relaxing was called for and the Roadster chosen.  The first couple of jobs to be done will be to finish the work on the R/C by making the reversing valve followed by a steering connection. 

1.  The front of the reversing block drilled; showing the 4 holes for the valve and on the edge two holes for the steam/exhaust pipes with a hole for a lubricator pipe between.





2.  The back of the reversing block with a hole of the steam pipe and on its edge a hole for the exhaust pipe.





3.  The steam pipe and lubricator pipe hard soldered to the reversing block.





4.  The two steam/exhaust and exhaust pipes soft soldered into the port block.





5.  As the reversing block and its pipe work look on the Roadster.





The steam and lubricator pipes were hard soldered because the join  the same hole and don't have much of a landing.  As it was successful in the Mk.1 Roadster conversion silicon tube will be used to connect the steam and exhaust pipe together.

Regards Tony.


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## barnesrickw (Mar 28, 2014)

I want one of these full sized.  Been in love with the idea since seeing them on Top Gear.  British racing green of course, like my old MG Little Person I had.  


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines


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## Tony Bird (Mar 30, 2014)

Hi,

1.  The steam pipes have had spacers fitted and been lagged, an extension piece has been fitted to the exhaust pipe.





2.  The type of reversing valve made and fitted works well as a throttle and can be radio controlled, which is helpful if a separate regulator isn't fitted and it also saves a servo.  The poor drawings that follow I hope show how it works.  Most servos have a 60 degree movement so the valve is designed to give a proportional throttle in forward and reverse within these limits.  The idea is for the exhaust to be open before the steam inlet to reduce back pressure in the cylinder.  The first drawing shows the valve in neutral.       





3.  The steam inlet is about to open and the exhaust is better than 50 percent open.





4.  The exhaust valve is fully open and the inlet about 25 percent open.





5.  Inlet fully open.  By increasing the angular moment of the valve and shortening the length of the slots it is possible to arrange for the exhaust to be completely open before the inlet starts to open.  I have used this type of reversing valve many times and it does seem to work a lot better than the valves where both the steam and exhaust open at the same rate.





6.  Machining the valve.





7.  Milling the slots





8.  Parting off the valve.





9. Machining the other side of the valve on a wax chuck fitted with a locating spigot.





10.  Handle roughed out and test fitted.





11.  The model to date.






Regards Tony.


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## james_III (Mar 30, 2014)

This is really the state it should left factory first place


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## Tony Bird (Apr 2, 2014)

Hi,

The Radio Control linkage has been fitted and is working.










 Video.






Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Apr 4, 2014)

Hi,

A dead leg lubricator has been fitted which feeds into the reversing block which is the same system that worked well on the Mk.1 conversion.






Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Apr 4, 2014)

Hi,

A start has been made on the ceramic burner for the Roadster.

1.  Dry assembly of the components.





2.  First section hard soldered.





3.  Second section hard soldered.





4.  Ceramic element supports and the gas/air pipe soldered in.  It will look a lot better after pickling and painting.  Honest!





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Apr 7, 2014)

Hi,

The ceramic burner for the Roadster is more or less finished. 


1.  After over night in the pickle.





2.  A No.3 jet machined to fit the burner tube and held with Loctited to its feed pipe.





3.  Burner painted with VHT paint with the ceramic element fitted and connected to a test gas tank.  Note for VHT paint that requires heating to cure instead of putting it in an oven; just play a soft gas torch flame over it for a few minutes.  Best done with good ventilation.





4.  The burner ceramic lit but yet to be sealed into the burner using silicon sealant.





Regards Tony.


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## charlesfitton (Apr 7, 2014)

A few questions, if I may:

What gas are you burning?

How quiet is this ? 

How do you source the ceramic for the burner? Are there alternatives?

thanks

f


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## deverett (Apr 7, 2014)

Tony Bird said:


> Hi,
> 
> The ceramic burner for the Roadster is more or less finished.
> 
> ...



That's a darn good idea!

Dave
The Emerald isle


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## Tony Bird (Apr 7, 2014)

Hi Charles,

*What gas are you burning?*

The burner will work with either Butane or a Butane/Propane mix which is 70/30 I think

*How quiet is this ? *

About the same as a gas ring on a cooker almost silent.

*How do you source the ceramic for the burner? Are there alternatives?*

Here in the UK it can be bought from model engineering supplies.  The ceramic panels are used on portable gas heaters.  There are two types a hard china like one and the one that you want which is soft and can easily be cut with a fine saw.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi,

1.  A bit of a problem, when the gears were reduced in size to clear the engine mounting screws it moved the propeller shaft inwards so it fouled the newly made burner!  





2.  The burner has been moved a couple of mm sideways to give clearance.





3.  The ceramic element sealed into the burner using a silicon sealant (bath sealant).  Holes have been drilled through the high points of the element to increase gas flow if it is thought necessary to fit a larger jet at a later date.





Element not sealed.





4.  VIDEO.  Steam test to see how well the reversing valve sealed and whether the lubricator worked.  A small seep on the reversing valve and the lubricator worked OK.





5.  Boiler back on chassis and gas pipe connected.





6.  VIDEO.  Checking R/C control of steering and reversing/regulator valve.





7.  Progress to date.






This leaves the engine left to make which won't happen for a least a couple of months as other projects, exhibitions and holidays have to be addressed first.  Before I forget how I have decided to do it, the engine frame might be fitted to the front of the chassis.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi,

Definitely the end for a bit.  The engine frame has been roughed out and fitted while I can remember how I was going to do it.  A flywheel has also been made.

1.  Flywheel partially balanced until the crank pin is fitted when it will be finally balanced. 





2.  The engine frame and flywheel fitted which is how it will remain for some time.





Regards Tony.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 14, 2014)

Very interesting work. I like it!!--Brian


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## Tony Bird (Jul 8, 2016)

Hi,

In May 2013 I started this thread on converting a Mamod Roadster into a three wheel version that resembles  I hope a Morgan 3 wheeler.  This thread continued on and off until April 2014 when it stalled.  The reason that it finished was because of the engine, the engine is based on an oscillating engine I designed years ago as a bit of a universal engine.  The idea was that the same cylinders and port block could be used as either single acting or double acting ones and used in different configurations multi cylinder horizontal, vertical, flat, 'V' etc.  To this end I had built many cylinders and port block blanks and when it came to the Mamod I had run out.  I had intended to make another batch but other projects came along.  Having recently finished a project it had been suggested by SWMBO that it would be a good idea to clear up some of the unfinished projects before starting on a new one, to this end four 16 mm scale wagons have been finished and I have re-started painting a pond yacht.  While clearing part of the workshop I came across some part made cylinders and port blocks of the Universal engine, so its back to playing with the Mamod Morgan conversion. 

At the end of play in 2014 the model looked like this.





To easy my way back into the construction yesterday I made and fitted an engine crash bar and painted the flywheel.  The Mamod Morgan is along side a previously modified Mamod Roadster. 








A quarter view of the Mamod Morgan.





I also managed to find the engine drawings of the cylinder and port blocks.














So to continue the port blocks will be drilled and fitted to the engine mount.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 8, 2016)

Hi,

I did some more work on the engine today, not a lot as I am still getting back into the engine's design and construction.

The tin of engine bits I found.





Two of the port blocks spotted then drilled.





The port blocks fitted to the engine frame and a shouldered bush has been fitted for the flywheel axle.





Front view of the engine frame with its port blocks fitted.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 11, 2016)

Hi,

Not a lot of progress has been made, still getting back into the project.

The ports have been spotted then drilled in the port block using an slightly under size drill.





Dimensions were checked and the ports size was increased so it was nearly the same as the distance between the ports. (bottom set of ports in the photograph).





As the two port blocks are different and have to be fitted the right way around they are being made separately.  The right hand one was tackled first the steam having to travel though it to get to the other.  The holes to be drilled in the port block six of which have to be plugged the remaining four will have steam pipes soldered in them.





Before starting on the second port block the relief for the cylinder was machined in the first one.  This was done using a wax (shellac chuck) which is slightly different to the usual type as the face of it is away from the chuck that holds it.  The reason for this is so that a gas torch can be played on the back of it while it is held in the lathe so the work piece can be centred.  In the brazing hearth the work piece is stuck to the chuck in the usual way and allowed to cool until it wont move on the chuck and while it is still hot it is put in the chuck on the lathe.  When fitted in the lathe the back of the chuck is heated until the shellac becomes mastic and the work piece is centre either as is shown using a tail stock centre or more accurately by using a piece of wood while the chuck revolves a bit like a potter centres his clay.











Fitted to the engine mount.





I might get the other port block done today.

Regards Tony.


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## AlbertdeWitte (Jul 11, 2016)

Tony, great work here!! I love the RC convertion


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## Tony Bird (Jul 13, 2016)

Hi,

I haven't really done a lot more soldered the plugs in the port block and increased the diameter of the steam passageways to take the steam pipes.

The drill stops the plug being screwed in too far.





Just a small amount of solder.








Cleaned up.





Cleaning out and checking the passageways are still clear.





Shouldered steam passageway for steam pipe.





Reagrds Tony.


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## ddmckee54 (Jul 14, 2016)

Tony:

I'm a little confused, why did you turn those areas on the RH block?  At first I was thinking that, assuming both the LH and RH blocks are the same thickness, those areas would allow you use identical cylinders and the reduced thickness would offset the connecting rods.  But it looks like the faces of both blocks are still on the same plane.  What am I missing?

Don


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## Tony Bird (Jul 15, 2016)

Hi Don,

*I'm a little confused, why did you turn those areas on the RH block? At first I was thinking that, assuming both the LH and RH blocks are the same thickness, those areas would allow you use identical cylinders and the reduced thickness would offset the connecting rods. But it looks like the faces of both blocks are still on the same plane. What am I missing?*

Both the port blocks are the same thickness, the recesses cut on the port face is so the cylinder seals better to the port block and also to reduce friction between them.

I haven't decided yet the design of big end I will use, the Mamod Roadster I altered used one higher cylinder to get the off-set.





There are other options to having different thickness port blocks or higher cylinders, this looks well but time consuming to make.





This is simple to make and works well.





It is unlikely that I will use a higher cylinder but I might put a packing piece behind one of the port blocks and crank the steam pipes to get an off-set, if I do this I might use this type of big end.








Time will tell which system will be used.  I have been side tracked to another project for a couple of days.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 16, 2016)

Hi,

The second port block has been drilled and plugged and the steam pipes cut and bent.





The pipes were soldered in place and water in a syringe was used to check the passageways were still clear.





The steam pipes to the reverse/regulator were cut and soldered in place and again water was used to check everything was still clear of obstructions.





The steam pipes were bent and attached to the pipes from the reverse/regulator valve using silicon tube.





Test assembly.





The engine plate has been painted and the steam pipes will be lagged after checking for leaks using steam.





I will make a start on the cylinders next week all being well.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 19, 2016)

Hi,

I have now started work on the cylinder bits I found in the workshop. *The cylinders are made in one of my usual ways using some hexagonal brass rod and some K&S brass tube. *The brass hexagon is drilled so the brass tube is a slide fit in it. *I hope the photographs explain the construction techniques used.


























To be continued.

As it is getting close to being able to run the model I thought it would be well to check the R/C out again. *I couldn't find the battery charging socket under the seat some how it had disappeared into the R/C compartment so a fair amount of the model had to be taken apart to retrieve it! *A short video of the R/C being checked out after re-assembly at.

https://youtu.be/qgEUzMZUTIk


Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 20, 2016)

Hi,

I have done a little more on the cylinders.

The cylinder block has been cut in half.








The cylinder tube has been soldered to the cylinder block.








The cylinder has been lapped.








The trunnion rods have been made and threaded.  First the longer thread was made using the lathe chuck to hold it.





The other shorter thread was made using a simple jig that consist of a length of hexagonal bar threaded all the way through to suit the thread on the rod in this case 5 BA.  A 5 BA screw is also needed.  I hope the photographs explain the jigs use.









The shorter thread being created.





The finished trunnion pin.





The cylinders mounted.








The inspiration for the conversion a Racing Morgan of the 1930's photographed at a hill climb last weekend.





Regards Tony.


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## Charles Lamont (Jul 20, 2016)

Tony Bird said:


> The inspiration for the conversion a Racing Morgan of the 1930's photographed at a hill climb last weekend.


That would be at Shelsley Walsh?


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## Tony Bird (Jul 21, 2016)

Hi Charles,

*That would be at Shelsley Walsh?*

Yes, if you are interested there is some video of a vintage Auto Union being prepared and then starting up the hill at: 

https://youtu.be/iH6tdghG6pg

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 21, 2016)

Hi,

As there is not that much left to do on the engine an engine mount has been made to allow the engine to be finished and run off the model.








Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 25, 2016)

Hi,

I haven't done a lot on the Mamod Morgan I was playing trains in the rain over the weekend and helping a friend with his model today.  After the friend left I managed to do a little.  I decided to use off-set big ends, I hope the photographs show how the were machined.  They started as a short length of 1/4" square brass rod.











Some long aluminium shouldered bushes have been made to check the line-up of the big ends and whether they will rotate.











There is a bit more filling needed to give clearance for rotation and the crank pin will need to be a little longer.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 27, 2016)

Hi,

There has been progress all be it a bit slow.

The bottom cylinder covers have been made and fitted and the steam pipes lagged.





One piston has been made and fitted.








As the engine looked at end of play today.





Only another piston and two cylinder covers away from seeing if the engine will work!

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 28, 2016)

Hi,

The Mamod Morgan is finished.  The second piston being finished and the top cylinder covers made and fitted.








The engine has been fitted back onto the model which now looks like this.








I will video and post the results of the air and steam tests.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 29, 2016)

Hi,

Video of air and steam test at:

https://youtu.be/bjsS2KdHDXs

Alas there is a bit of an issue with the chain and sprocket final drive.  The pitches of the chain and sprockets is slightly different which is given a very lumpy final drive.  Its OK with the air who's pressure can just be increased to get over this not so as can be seen when in steam.  The wheels and chain were bought new the previous Mamod Roadster modified used some old used chain and sprockets and works well.  I had used Meccano gears etc as I thought it was in keeping with the toy image of Mamod.  I think I might try using other chains and sprockets rather than Meccano which is a shame as I think they looked the part.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 29, 2016)

Hi,

This is the end of this thread, well until I manage to do something about the chain drive.  I have to start some maintenance on my shed and start preparing our layout for the last three exhibitions of this year, the first being Llanfair at the beginning of September, so not much modelling for a bit!

Last photograph! Mk.1 and Mk.2 modified Mamod Roadsters.





Regards Tony.


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## nel2lar (Aug 2, 2016)

Tony
Very nice, I remember them as a child and they were something special back then and still are. Thank you for bringing back good memories.
Nelson


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