# Stirling Fan



## doc1955 (Jun 2, 2010)

Decided to build a Stirling Fan.
I also decided to make it a double build as I did with my last build.
The second one will again be a gift.















This is the first part the hot cap.
Here I start with a piece of stock long enough
For 2 parts plus enough to allow for parting tool. 












Here are the 2 parts one end has been cut with the 
End slots to help capture the heat during operation













I cut the slots using a hexagon collet block
Here I depart from the drawings this should be sufficient and easier to accomplish.













After finishing both ends I part into 2 pieces.














Here the 2 parts are split now load each and
Bring them to the proper length.













Face to length and rough drill inside diameter and finish bore.














Here I turned up a spud to slide part over the spud is a nice snug fit. I then turn down the under cut section of the hot cap. This section helps keep the heat at the end of the cylinder. I used the tail stock and a small scrap piece to pinch the material to turn.


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## Deanofid (Jun 2, 2010)

These look nice, Doc. Is this one of Jerry Howell's projects?

You sure keeping in good with the family. Anyone would be thrilled to be on your "gift list"! 

This should be another great build!

Dean


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## doc1955 (Jun 2, 2010)

Dean yes its Jerry's super Stirling I purchased the plans awhile back.

He's still showing all his friends the other engines I've built for him. He is fun to build things for. He gets so excited about them.


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## doc1955 (Jun 3, 2010)

Here are both part finished.










Next I worked on the displacer cylinder.





Picked out a scrap drop end piece of 7075 t6 aluminum.











Cut piece in half and layed out to rough mill out outside profile.












Rough milling part profile.








Pieces are cut to size.








Laid out the center and bore to aid centering in 4jaw on lathe.







Centering in lathe with dial indicator.












Parts have holes bored and ready to have cut cooling fins cut.


Next time turn up a mandrel to cut fins.


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## Deanofid (Jun 3, 2010)

You're going at it, Doc. Double the parts count doesn't seem to slow you down much!

Dean


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## SAM in LA (Jun 4, 2010)

Doc,

Looking good.

If I tried to make two engines at a time, I would scrap twice as many parts. :big:

SAM


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## Maryak (Jun 4, 2010)

SAM in LA  said:
			
		

> Doc,
> 
> Looking good.
> 
> ...



ME TOO

Best Regards
Bob


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## doc1955 (Jun 5, 2010)

Well got some time in the shop. 
Turned up a mandrel to turn cooling fins everything went well during process.








Here is the mandrel noting special just fits snug slip fit to the bore in part and screw in end pinches it.






I used a part off blade with a full radius ground on the end and extended from holder just far enough to reach proper depth and clear the corners of the stock.


























Here they are next the hole pattern for the hot cap and the power cylinder.


That will be next time.


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## Deanofid (Jun 6, 2010)

Nice slim fins on these cylinders, Doc. Nicely spaced, too. That's something I always worry
about screwing up when I do fins.

Dean


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## doc1955 (Jun 6, 2010)

If you look closely you'll notice I did mess up the last fin isn't suppose to be there a .031 mistake. But the thing is it isn't the fins I messed up on but actually the base thickness. So after doing the fins on the first one I had to make the second the same. That's ok I'll adjust and it'll be ok. 
 What spooks me is the first few cuts with the part off blade keep picturing it grabbing the fin and ripping it off but honestly it has never happened (Knock on wood) but I have ruined a cylinder once when a parting tool grabbed and sucked in that happened in a 3 jaw. After that I take my time and make a mandrel and put it in a 5c collet.

Thanks for the comments Dean!


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## doc1955 (Jun 6, 2010)

Well started putting hole pattern in. I decided t change the cross hole to the power cylinder and drill it from the side and plug the access hole in the side.





This part went ok then set up to do pattern in bottom.





This didn't go so good had a math error in the hole pattern so I ended up rotating the pattern 10 degrees to get the correct pattern in. Why is it when you do something like this right after you drill the last hole in the pattern you go hey wait thats not right! Well things were going smooth.






Then hole pattern in top.





Well at least you won't even see it once the hot end is bolted in place but I'll know it's there.

Now on to the displacer, didn't have any round stock the right dia. so grabbed a drop end block and comenced to make it round.















Next time finish the displacers hope things go better with them.


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## Deanofid (Jun 6, 2010)

Darn holes!

"you won't even see it once the hot end is bolted in place but I'll know it's there."

Well, yer Paw-in-Law won't. That's consolation for you, Doc. Sorry for your troubles.
I ended up doing the displacer can on my current one three times before I got it right.
Couldn't measure the shaft for it to same my life! I'm sure you'll do much better.

Did you get the bearings and graphite for these from Howell?

Thanks for the update.

Dean


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## ksouers (Jun 6, 2010)

Doc,
Glad to see you on another project. I'm surprised it's so quickly on the heels of the beam engines.

I'll be watching closely.


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## doc1955 (Jun 7, 2010)

Didn't get out into the shop today.

Dean I had plenty of small precision ball bearings on hand I did order some graphite I had some on hand but not large enough I had .500 and it runs about .003 undersized I was going to leave the bore for the power cylinder u/s but have decided to just go ahead and order some .625 stock so I ordered 6 pieces to have some on hand. 

Ksouers
I can't seem to leave my mill and lathe sit for more than a day or two. (funny how its a blast when I'm working at home)


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## doc1955 (Jun 8, 2010)

Got the displaces turned up. I turned the OD to finished size.
Then rough drilled ID to proper depth.




I set drill off end to get to the right depth.






Then I bored the finished dia to the proper depth. Notice I wrapped masking tap around the OD on the end to keep wall from flexing.














Finished parts next the end pieces that slip and get loctited into the ends.


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## Deanofid (Jun 8, 2010)

Good idea with the masking tape for the displacer cans, Doc. Those things are about as thin as they can be without just being air, aren't they? One of those 99.9% swarf jobs. 

They look good, and the Noid sure seems happy about it.

Dean


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## doc1955 (Jun 8, 2010)

Thanks Dean! 

  I've done thin wall turning 2 ways with tape on the out side or the other way is to turn the ID first and make a snug plug and then turn the out side. I've had good luck both ways but these were pushing the limit due to the length of them.

 Dean I sure like your build it has been super! I hope these turn out half as good. I've been trying to think of an easy way of constructing the fan blades.

Thanks again for checking in on my build and congrats on yours!


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## Deanofid (Jun 9, 2010)

Doc, I don't know how the prints show to make the fan blades, but I saw what I thought was a kind of 
nifty way to do it somewhere.

The hub was turned to size, left on the parent stock, and then slots were cut with a slitting saw on a 
diagonal to the axis of the hub bore. The diagonal slots make the pitch for the blades.

The blades were just cut out of sheet, sandwiched together, and the rough edges files smooth, making them all the same shape. To bend the blades, they were just rolled over a piece of round stock of a suitable diameter. Then soldered into the slots on the hub. Voilá! Fan, (or propeller, screw, ect).

Well, that's one way to do it, I suppose. This happens to be fresh to my mind because it's how I plan
to make the small cooling fan for the finned cylinder on the engine in my project thread.

Something to think about, maybe.

Dean


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## b.lindsey (Jun 9, 2010)

doc,

This is a fine looking project and these little sterling fans are such fun to watch. I haven't made Jerry's Super Sterling Fan but did make his smaller one. A friend here at work is currently working on the larger one as well, so I am aware that the blades are more contoured than those on the smaller fan. As for blanking them out though, the method Dean suggests is what I used. I sandwiched four pieces of .015" brass together and held them together with 3M Super77 spray contact adhesive, then pasted the template on top of the sandwich as a guide for cutting, sanding and finally filing to shape so they were all identical. Once the balnks are done they can be separated easily by soaking the sandwich in lacquer thinner and using the same to clean of the residual contact cement from each blade. Just one warning...especialy when sanding...if the sandwich gets too hot the contact cement will loosen its grip some, so take the sanding in small steps and allow to cool often.

There should be a couple of pics here: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3366.msg33423#msg33423

The hub was also done much as Dean suggests but due to the thinner brass stock I used a dremel cut off disc to make the slots since I didn't have a suitable slotting saw. I used JB Weld to attach the blades to the hub which in the end made for a nice clean result which has held up well. More traditional soft soldering is also an option.

Great thread so far and I am looking forward to more.

Regards,
Bill


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## idahoan (Jun 9, 2010)

Hi Guys

I have a soft spot for hot air fans: I have close to a 1/2 dozen of them. I built 3 Moriya fans quite a few years ago and decided for something a little different I would go with wood blades. I made one with Walnut (dad's) one with Cherry (brother's) and mine with Maple. I pretty much used the same approach; drill the holes sandwich all the blades between 2 pieces of aluminum and cut, sand, and file the profile. The wood blades required a lot of individual work to smooth and round over all the edges by hand.

Move ahead quite a few years and I built my Essex Hot air fan (3 summers ago) from a Myers casting kit. What I did on this one was to design the blades in AutoCAD and have a local shop cut them out on their waterjet machine. I formed the blades over a piece of pipe to the the curvature. 

I also have a Paki. KyKo from around 1945 that I have fully restored. I made a new set of blades and hub for this one also based on the Moriya design only scaled up to fit the full sized fan. 

I show my fans throughout the summer and thoroughly enjoy them.

Dave


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## idahoan (Jun 9, 2010)

Let me see if I can add the rest of the pictures!

Dave


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## doc1955 (Jun 9, 2010)

Thanks guy for the info I was thinking the slots in the hub would have to be cut on a radius to the same as the blades would be formed to. I did plan on cutting them together haven't obtained the material for them as of yet plans call for I think .031 brass. Anyway I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

I worked the end pieces for the displacers.





Turned up end dia and the od. Also drilled the .125 dia hole for the connection rod.

Then I had grind up a treepan tool to cut the under cut.










Turned part around in the lathe and drilled the larger weight relief counter bore and faced to proper length.













Next time I'll be working on the power cylinders. 

Thanks again guys for checking in and the tips.
I think I'll get some .031 brass and do a little practice silver soldering.


PS Wow I like your essex fan Dave she is beautiful!


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## idahoan (Jun 9, 2010)

Thanks Doc

I don't want to hijack your thread; so this will be brief.

The Essex is really an interesting engine; the hot cap is the piston and the piston is inverted. I made a few changes to the plans to suit my tastes.
I changed the blades to look more like the original that I have pictures of. Also the main engine casting was modified to look more like the original fan.

Thanks again,
Dave

Here is a picture of the piston/hotcap assembly and the displacer piston


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## shred (Jun 10, 2010)

Looks good. Fan blades are one spot you can get pretty creative on the fans. 

This is what I did on my mini after seeing an old electric fan from the 30's with a blade design from an 1898 patent:


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## doc1955 (Jun 13, 2010)

Nice job on the blades Shred!


Well got a little done here is what I got.







Grabbed a piece of material and cut up 2 blocks squared them up and laided them out





Notches on sides cut ready to go to lathe or mill and drill and bore the cylinder bore.






Decided to put them in a 4jaw chuck and do them on the lathe.






Ok bores are done except for lapping to be done last. Now to turn up a mandrel and turn the cooling fins.










Got mandrel turned and first part mounted and ready to start.





The spookiest slot cut the first one because it is up against the base of cylinder the rest will be a piece of cake.





















One down one to go going smoothly for a change.





Drill mounting holes.











I knew it was to good to be true. Slight miscalculation on my part. I wanted to leave outside of cylinder square to have just a tad bit more cooling surface. But as you see the screws need to have more clearance.





No problem took a ball end mill and relieved the bottom 3 fins slightly and still have that little extra cooling surface.






Done except for the lapping.
Haven t decided what to work next. Still want to get some practice in on silver soldering some .031 brass to see how it goes.


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## Deanofid (Jun 13, 2010)

You just keep on putting out good parts, Doc. Things are looking great!

Dean


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## arnoldb (Jun 13, 2010)

Doc, :bow: - I'll just echo Dean!

Regards, Arnold


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## doc1955 (Jun 13, 2010)

Thanks Dean and Arnold.

I'm going to have to get an order sent in for some .031 stock.
I'll have to look around for a good price and then get a pastern made. I was thinking of using double back tape to tape the pieces together before machining them. Anyway I need to get on the ball and get some material ordered.
Thanks again guys for checking in and the comments they are appreciated it's like I'm not alone in this venture with that thanks!


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## Deanofid (Jun 13, 2010)

Doc, your local hobby shop will probably have .031 stock in aluminum, brass, and copper. Look for the K&S metal display. Most of those displays have it in sheets up to 4"x8".

Dean


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## doc1955 (Jun 14, 2010)

Thanks Dean 
We unfortunately don't have a hobby shop in this town. 
I think I will send off an order to Mcmaster for it they have 6 x 25 for under $15.00
I order things from them a lot at work. I did lay out the blade profile here at work at noon and will plot full size and double tape it to the top piece and cut them out. It should work out fine.


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## doc1955 (Jun 15, 2010)

Well I placed an order for the .031 brass stock 6 X 25 ordered 2 pieces the price came to $27
right after I ordered I remembered I was going to order some delrin.

I didn't get any shop time the last few days had a funeral I had to attend on Saturday in Bismarck. My cousin passed away a month after she was diagnosed with pancreas cancer she was only 62.

  I need to get back out in the shop to keep me from thinking about it. 
Anyway when I get back in the shop going to work on the crank. I sure like this message board and the people on it! There are a lot of beautiful machining projects going on!


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## Deanofid (Jun 15, 2010)

So sorry to hear about your cousin, Doc. She was young!
Keep busy. Best thing you can do, I suppose.

I never know what to say in these instances. 
Again, sorry Doc.

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Jun 15, 2010)

My sincere sympathy Doc.
That was awful fast even for pancreatic cancer.


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## Maryak (Jun 16, 2010)

Doc,

My condolences to you and your family on the loss of your cousin.

Best Regards
Bob


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## b.lindsey (Jun 16, 2010)

So sorry to hear of your loss Doc. Sometimes the quiet solitary time in the shop can be good therapy.

Bill


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## doc1955 (Jun 16, 2010)

Thanks guys!


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## doc1955 (Jun 20, 2010)

Well got back out into the shop for a little while and turned up the crank disks.





Had a drop end piece 17-4 stainless just waiting to be used.





Turned up the little dia on the face and drilled and reamed the center hole ready to be parted off.
Just a note I know there has been talk of parting off troubles but I personally have found the closed you can get to the chuck or collet when doing so the better results you will have.






Then it was on to the mill. Here I took and made up a little holding fixture. I pined 2 disks together with the small dia facing outward and clamping them down. Then made sure everything was setting flat and dialed in the od and moved off the throw distance and drilled the rod journal holes.










Then it was back to the lathe to drill the crank pins.





After parting off and getting over all length and turning both end dia I drilled the through hole.






Here they are put together only temp I need to get the rod done so I can assemble them for real.





So I think it will be the rods done next.


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## doc1955 (Jun 20, 2010)

Well while I was watching the ballgame I modeled up the connecting rod wanted to get some dimensions to aide in the making.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdFX6L1WsHU[/ame]


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## ksouers (Jun 20, 2010)

Hey Doc, I like those toe clamps. I'll have to remember that little trick.


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## Deanofid (Jun 21, 2010)

I like those clamps too, Doc. They're now on _"The List"_, (which has become a monster).
The cranks discs came out nice!

Dean


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## kustomkb (Jun 21, 2010)

Sorry about your cousin Doc,

Your work on your stirling is looking great! 

Thanks for the pics.


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## doc1955 (Jun 21, 2010)

Thanks ! Dean
Thanks ! KustomKB

The clamps I am using I got from a 5s sale they had where I work. Every month they sell off thing they don't use or excess things.
I thing I payed $10 for a box of miscellaneous stuff and they were in the box.
I have a bunch of of toe clamps to way more than I'll ever use was going to take some pics and offer them here for shipping cost just haven't got around to it.


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## doc1955 (Jun 22, 2010)

Here is what was in a box I purchased at a sale no one else bid on it I got it for $10.00












Here is a link to the carrlane page

http://www.carrlane.com/Catalog/index.cfm/index.cfm?FuseAction=PartCheck&Product_ID=539&pn=CL-1-SAC

















Here is the link to the carrlane page for this clamp.
http://www.carrlane.com/Catalog/index.cfm/index.cfm?FuseAction=PartCheck&Product_ID=539&pn=CL-15-SAC

If anyone could use any and are willing to pay shipping cost they are welcome to let me know.
There are way more that I'll ever use. Usually you only need 3 to clamp plates or parts down.


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## doc1955 (Jun 22, 2010)

Here is another box I got this one for $15.00




Unfortunately most all the clamps were for 5/8 bolts.










Again if anyone thinks they could use any and are willing to pay shipping let me know.


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## Deanofid (Jun 22, 2010)

Doc, thanks for the generous offer. I'll send a PM about a few of these.

Dean


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## doc1955 (Jun 27, 2010)

Well it's been a week since I turned a spindle it been hot and humid here plus all kinds of storms.
They are saying the weather is going to start settling down I hope they are right.
I need to get moving the sooner I get done the sooner I'll have a breeze :big: :big:

I may have to break down and get air installed.


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## doc1955 (Jul 4, 2010)

Well I did a little in the shop today. Every time I get some time for the shop it has to be hot and humid!
Anyway I started on the connecting rods.

Grabbed some stock and milled down the thickness to size.




Scribed out position of holes.

After drill and reaming holes I took a 1/4 stripper bolt(shoulder screw)and mounted iy with a 5c collet to cut under cuts and cut end radius on each rod.




I clamped a piece of stock to my material to just have a tad more control as I wanted to climb cut around the boss to get a better finish.




I have found as long as you keep your end mil size small you can climb or conventional cut with out to many problems.






Then I put them back straight in the vise and milled the sides. All this milling was done to scribe lines just though I'd mention that. I scribe a line make my cut and blend to it.




Here they are still attached to the main stock.

And cut off.





Now I need to set them up and mill the taper on the side to taper the small end down the the proper size and mill the slot oh yeah the pockets it the sides also. Couldn't take the heat even with a fan running so it will have to wait until next time. I really do have to convince the miss's that we need to put air in the shop.


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## Deanofid (Jul 4, 2010)

That looks like a good way to do two at a time, Doc.  A nice long lever gave you a 
a lot of control doing the radii, too. Good thinking!

Dean


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## ksouers (Jul 5, 2010)

Nice one, Doc. Or is that two?  ;D


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## doc1955 (Jul 5, 2010)

Finished the connecting rods and started the displacer head.





Cutting pocket.





Cutting taper used a drill to locate part for taper. Used a .062 in the small end then calculated what size I needed in the larg end to put it at the right angle.





Just need to be debured and a little blending.



Squared up some stock for the heads.





Dialed in on the lathe in the 4 jaw to cut the interface for the cylinder and drill and ream center hole for the bushing for the displacer rod.















Back to the mill.









Thats it for today next time finish the heads and start the bearing standards.


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## Deanofid (Jul 5, 2010)

The rods look nice, Doc. Fine milling work, and makes for a good start on the finishing job.

Dean


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## doc1955 (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks Kevin!
Thanks Dean!

I played hookie and called in and took a vacation day so I could play in the shop for a while today.


Set up and drilled the bolt pattern for mounting to the displacer. Nice thing was these are symmetrical
so one move on x and y and just rotate part in vise against stop and you can drill ll the holes in one set up.




 Holes spot drilled.





\







  drilling holes







  set up and mill steps in the side for bearing standard mounting surfaces.






  drill and tap holes to mount bearing standards






 parts completed






 material for the bearing standards






Don't know if it was ever mentioned but when you have more than 1 part to do put several layers of paper in the front and all the parts will be held securely.






 Holes drilled the bearing hole drilled and reamed to size.





  parts pined together and used to set parts at angle in vise with a set block uder small hole side.





 Angle milled.






 parts with angles milled on both sides.





 parts mounted with stripper bolt in 5c collet to mill end radius again clamped lever to parts to help control swing. 





 Man I like my stripper bolts!





 Part completed.






 Oh darn the Noid is pointing out we're missing a couple parts.
Seems I only made 2 bearing standard so I get to do them again oh well.

After I get the next 2 bearing standards done I'll give the crank arms a go.


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## Deanofid (Jul 6, 2010)

Thanks for the descriptions and pics, Doc. The assembly shots are looking great!

Dean


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## ksouers (Jul 7, 2010)

Wow, Doc. The rods look really great.

Yep, I like symmetric parts, too. Makes it really easy on the set ups.
The bearing standards came out great. Ignore the Noid, he don't know anything ;D


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## doc1955 (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks for the comments Dean and Kevin I appreciate it.
Still have not did any practice soldering yet need to try and get that done before I work on the real thing. I'd hate to get the fan blades made up only to mess up the soldering.


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## b.lindsey (Jul 7, 2010)

Doc, 
You've been making great progress since I last checked the thread and all the assembly shots look great also. There's a lot of work in these little fans, but they are sure worth it just to sit back and watch them run.

Bill


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## doc1955 (Jul 7, 2010)

Thanks Bill
I've looked at and thought about building my own for some time.
Just hope I'm up to the challenge as I know how finicky stirlings can be.
Plus the fan has me a lttle concerned I've done some silver soldering but defiantly not my forte now if it was tig welding something I wouldn't be sweating it.
 I just need to get some test pieces made and get after it.
I really like the looks of Deans stirling he just finished it was a super build!


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## b.lindsey (Jul 8, 2010)

Doc, 
This may seem like heresy but it worked quite well on my mini-sterling fan using Jerry's plans. Rather than soft or silver soldering them to the hub, I used JB Weld epoxy. IIRC I used the quick setting version, but had plenty of time to clean up the joints and leave a nice little fillet where the base of the blades fit into the slots on the hub. After a couple of years now and lots of run time, they haven't let go yet.

Bill


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## doc1955 (Jul 8, 2010)

Thanks Bill if my practice pieces don't go smoothly I'll keep that in mind.
I believe I've used that on some cast iron once and had really good luck with it.


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## larry1 (Jul 8, 2010)

Doc, As always you work looks truly great,wish my work was half as good. larry1


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## doc1955 (Jul 8, 2010)

Thanks Larry I just hope they are runners when I finish stirling engines shake my confidence if they were internal combustion engines I would feel a little more confident in having a runner. 
Thanks again everyone for the kind comments!


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## shred (Jul 9, 2010)

;D I bolted the blades to my fan hub for much the same reasons...


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## doc1955 (Aug 7, 2010)

Well it's been some time since my last up date sorry about that but the weather here has bee less than desirable for shop work. The humidity and temp have been well above normal.
Here is what I've got so far I did have a little time out there today before it was just to warm.

Started by getting 2 pieces parted off for the top rings.






Chucked them up in a 3jaw and drilled a .5 center hole and bored the ID deep enough so that when I flipped and did the counter bore from the back side they would intersect. Bored the counter bore on the first side then I flipped in the 3 jaw and counter bored the back side.
















Then I quick made a little holding jig to drill the hot end mount holes. Clamped up part and moved to the first location and drilled through the part and the jig. Then I moved to the second location and after that just looseness the part and rotate using drill to line up the hole just drilled with the hole in jig. That way didn't need to move the machine table after the second hole plus I'll hole the line up hole in the jig in the next 2 operations also.





Holes for hot end done.





Set the jig up at the 11 degrees put a .5 tooling ball in the center hole to dial in on. I calculated the distance from that center to where the hole for the stand rods needed to be the center of the ball is .500 above the jig at 11 degrees the part is .400 so the center was .1 above the part.







Then set up the jig a 101 degrees to drill the 4-40 holes for set screws to hold the stand rods in place.





I ended up having to make a tap extension to tap the holes.






only thing left to do on these parts is mounting holes for the flame guard.

Next need to round up material for the bottom ring.


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## Deanofid (Aug 7, 2010)

Glad to see you back, Doc! 
You got quite a bit done for working in a hot shop. That always slows me down!
Everything's looking great.

Dean


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## doc1955 (Aug 7, 2010)

Thanks Dean!
I have a tuf time getting motivated when its hot & humid in the shop.
I see now that this fall a wall will be going up to separate the area I claimed as my shop are from the garage. That way I can install air and keep my machines (and me) out of the hot and humid air.



I am going to put a little some thing here just encase anyone needs to have a tap extension and hasn't tried this it works extremely well and is very easy ans fast to do.


First grab a piece of stock slightly bigger in dia than the tap and drill hole in the end the same dia as the tap and about the same depth as the flats on the tap.






Then simply insert tap leaving just enough of the flat showing so you can see the orientation. Lay on and anvil and take a punch and give it a rap to flaten then flip 180 and give one more rap then turn 90 and do the same. You don't have to get carried away a light tap with a hammer should deform it to form the square drive end.












Then if you want the tap to stay in the drive without holding it there simply magnetize it.

To do that I just grab some old speaker wire wrap it around the extension and ark the wire on a battery a couple times and it will magnetize it for you.

Extensions like this are cheap simple and work very well.


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## doc1955 (Aug 17, 2010)

Well got a little more done since last post.






Turned up blanks for crank arm.






Mill oal width.






Turned up a little brass spud to use for filing radius on end and also used to mill the angled sides. I put a parallel laid across the bras spud and the arm spud to line up with top of vise.






Here they are after the filing on the set screw hole is left then they are done.






Rounded up some material for the base rings and laid out the center and center diameter.
Then used a 1/4 end mill and plunge milled around the hole except for the last 1/4inc or so. Want to use the center slug to line up part in 4 jaw on lathe before removing it.






Used center to line up in 4 jaw then removed from 4 jaw removed the slug and put it back in the 4jaw to finish bore the ID.











Then switch to a 3 jaw cl mp on ID and finish turn OD and face.






Here they are diameters finished they are thicker than the drawing call for but that's ok they are 1 inch thick.






Just set the pieces together to let the Noid have a preview. :big:

Next I'll need to create a jig plate to drill the holes at 11 degrees.


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## kustomkb (Aug 17, 2010)

Looking good Doc!

Nice fixturing.


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## SAM in LA (Aug 17, 2010)

Doc,

I learn something everyday.

Thanks for sharing.

SAM


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## b.lindsey (Aug 17, 2010)

Doc,
That is coming along very well. Looking forward to seeing the home stretch and that first run.....keep up the nice work.

Bill


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## doc1955 (Aug 17, 2010)

Thanks Kevin,Sam and Bill!
Haven't spent a lot of time out in the shop the last couple months.
I still haven't decided at how or what the fan blades will look like.
I'm thinking of 2 different styles. I have a few little parts to make along with the blade. The fan blade material is laying here ready for me to get off the fence and decide how I want it to look.
Thanks for checking in!


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## Deanofid (Aug 17, 2010)

The base came out looking good, Doc. Neat trick, chain drilling it except for the last hole so you could
use it to center the piece. 
Oh, the cranks came out great, too! 
This is looking pretty close to being 'there'. Great project. Glad I followed along!

Dean


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## doc1955 (Aug 17, 2010)

Thanks Dean I have a few small pieces to make yet.
Plus I still need to finish base so I'll need to get a holding jig made to use to hold them.
Plus the fan blade yet to do. I noticed I don't have any 4-40 cap screws so I think I'll order some stainless button heads for these motors. I seen McMaster has them for 100qty under $10. I was thinking of also ordering some graphite gasket material also I think that material is suppose to be good up to I think around 850f degrees. That should be ok right?


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## doc1955 (Sep 25, 2010)

Well it's been some time since my last update. I had some things happen that made me not able to go into the shop. Anyway I did get a little done.





I got some blank hubs turned up for the fan. I went with aluminum and I'm going to pin the blades in place.
I milled a setup block the angle of the pitch of the blades so I could set up against the vise stop and all the slots would come out consistent.
I scribed the center of the hub.





I just eyeballed the center to the slitting saw blade should be close enough.






Then proceeded to cut slots. Rotated collet block and do again all four sides.





Finished hubs if you look closely you will notice slots in one hub are opposite of the other.
Darn it was a mistake I made on the first one the blade will need to rotate counter clock wise.
So now I have one that will need ccw rotation and one with cw rotation. Oh well I think the 2 setting together running with on one way and the other the opposite will look kind of neat.

Next I took and cut the brass blade stock to a width just larger than the finished blade width.I then double taped them together and placed a paper template on top that I plotted full size.






Now ready to cut them to size that will be next time.


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## Deanofid (Sep 26, 2010)

That's so easy to do, Doc, getting the slots going the wrong way. That stuff happens. It sounds
like you have them figured out to make both work.
The hubs look good. Good idea to fasten the blades all together to get them all the same, too.
It should look pretty sharp, with brass blades, and aluminum hubs!

Dean


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## doc1955 (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks Dean
I 'm going to try and get out in the shop and work on the fan a little today.
I need to think about how I'm going to form them the plan calls out a 3 inch radius.
I might make a little form jig to try and get them all the same.


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## doc1955 (Sep 26, 2010)

Well I used a gauge block to line up blades in vise and mill to template line.





Did this for the entire profile of blade and then filed radius where needed.











Removed template and ready to separate blades.





Placed them in pan of boiling water to soften the double back tape to separate blades.





Blades separated pretty easy after a minut or so in the boiling water.





Clamped hub in 5c collet in lathe and tapped blades into place. I was worried the slitting saw I had would oversize slot but they turned out to be a nice press fit with the blades









After seeing them assembled to the hub I may not form them into a radius I am thinking of leaving them flat.

I polished up one just to see what it would look like polished.






I'll need to decide about the forming before polishing them.


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## zeeprogrammer (Sep 26, 2010)

Nice!


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## b.lindsey (Sep 26, 2010)

Those look GREAT doc. On Jerry's smaller fan the blades are not curved so it isn't mandatory at all. Very nice job you did on those!!

Bill


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## doc1955 (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks Zee and Bill
I'm still not sure if I want to form the blades or not.
I'm going to polish up one set and see how it looks before making the final decision.
I'm hoping I'll get my stainless button head screws I ordered for these and the insulator material.
I'm getting anxious to start putting things together.
I'm thinking of putting some flat black on the power cylinder and cold air cylinder and then polishing the fins another decision I'll have to make and make it soon.
Thanks again for the comments it is appreciated helps keep one motivated.


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## swilliams (Sep 26, 2010)

I found seeing how to make those fans really interesting Doc. The photos of the slots in the hubs look so much like they have a real curve rather than a straight saw cut. Nice work!

Steve


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## Deanofid (Sep 26, 2010)

You did a nice job on those blades, Doc. They look very good.
I don't think you need to curve them unless you want to. They will 
push air well the way they are. Actually, I think they look nice flat. 
They do go well with the shiny alu hub, too.

You're getting pretty close on these, aren't you?

Dean


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## doc1955 (Sep 27, 2010)

Thanks Steve and Dean
After rigging up a forming jig and making a practice blade and forming it I compared it to the flat blade and I think I'll keep them flat.
So I took a little detour this evening, but some times you just need to see before you decide.
So now tomorrow I'll set down and start polishing the blades so I can get them put together and pinned.
No stainless screws yet hope I get them soon. I do have a few things I need to address yet.


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## doc1955 (Oct 19, 2010)

Well I finally was able to get a little done on the project again yesterday. I strayed from the blades and went back to the base to finish. I know I have this tendency to jump from part to part. But that's what I like about working on my own projects I can work on what ever I feel like for the day and think about what I'll do next.
 So here is what I got done yesterday.

First off I tilted the mill head to 11 degrees.






Then attached bases to a small knee to scribe center marks on the base. Then flip knee 90 degrees and scribe center again. Now I have centers 90 degrees from each other to use in setting part up for drilling.
















Squared up the center lines with a square against the vise jaw.









Pick up the center line scribe mark and the scribe mark from outside dia in with center drill.





Center drill base.





I don't advocate the following step as I was always taught never put an endmill in a drill chuck but in this case I am only putting a small spot face to keep drill from walking off.




Then finish drilling holes.




 Now to tram the head in and move onto the next task.


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## doc1955 (Oct 21, 2010)

Did a little this morning.
I worked on the displacer rod and bushing. I changed material of bushing to graphite since I had some 3/8 dia laying around from a previous job.





Just basic turning turned up the outside diameters to a press fit to the displaced head. Will drill rod hole after pressed into place in the displacer head.





Here bushing is pressed in place used the mill vise for the task.





Mounted in a 5c collet on the lathe and center drill, drilled and reamed hole to finish size for rod.





Here rod in place I also changed rod material from drill rod to brass.

Next I started cutting gasket material. I purchased graphite with ss insert. If I was to do it again I would of went with material without the ss insert. This stuff is hard tio work with. I needed a small gasket punch and wanted some material a little on the tuffer side. Just so happens a framing nail was about the right size.
So I grabbed a nail faced off the point turned the od on the ent to slip with the holes in the displacer head. Then drilled hole in end about.03 smaller than the od and used a counter sink to bring edge to a sharp edge.










It actually works pretty good even with the ss insert.


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## doc1955 (Oct 23, 2010)

Still on the fence about if I want to form the fan blades or leave them flat.
To make a form tool or not to is the question at hand. ??? ???
I need to get going on this build the honey-do list I hope is coming to an end between that and work have not found a lot of shop time that is home shop time, work shop time tooo much! :big: :big:


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## Deanofid (Oct 24, 2010)

Still watching, Doc. I wasn't around for about a week, so missed a few things.
I'd leave the fan blades flat!


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## ksouers (Oct 24, 2010)

Doc,

Good to see you back in the shop.

If I waited for the honey-do list to be completed I'd never get anything done :
Seems when I finish one thing, she adds two more :-\


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## Maryak (Oct 29, 2010)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> If I waited for the honey-do list to be completed I'd never get anything done :
> Seems when I finish one thing, she adds two more :-\



Oh Kevin,

You don't know how good that makes me feel. I thought I was alone. ;D

The down side of being retired is I'm no longer a moving target. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## doc1955 (Oct 29, 2010)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> The down side of being retired is I'm no longer a moving target.
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob


 Rof} Rof} Rof} Unfortunately I was hit again! And I am still in the working group apparently I just done move fast enough *club*


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## doc1955 (Nov 12, 2010)

Some of you may already know but I had a little mishap.
I did get the fan blade put together and pinned and I decided to start assembly.
 Well in the process I was called away AGAIN buy my significant other and when I returned to what I was doing I forgot had I taken the bolts out of the top to shorten them. 
 I picked up the motor turned it upside down and was putting some things together on the bottom side when disaster struck and the cylinder head and crank displacer all hit the floor. Ended up breaking the graphite bushing and bending the displacer rod so now I need to try and get the displacer and displacer head and rod dis assembled to get a new rod made and put into place. 

 I think tomorrow I should get some shop time and I'll attempt to heat the displacer up to release the loctite and try and get the parts separated. 
 I'm thinking of chucking in a 5c collet and set lathe rpm as low as I can and heating it up with a torch that way the heat should be even. 
 Wish me luck I really don't want to have to make the displacer over.
Well at least I like haw the blades turned out I did leave the blades flat and am happy with the look. 

I'll try and get some pictures posted tomorrow.


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## arnoldb (Nov 13, 2010)

Good luck Doc !

Regards, Arnold


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## doc1955 (Nov 13, 2010)

Here are some of the photos of the last parts made that I didn't get posted.

Here is a rod end blank being prepared.






Dialing ind end to center it on the mill.






Here I'm using a boring head and turning the boss round on the mill.












Drill hole for rod shaft.






Rod end mounted on the shop aide that I've used a few times now made back when I was building the walking beam engines. 















Here I have the blade mounted into the hub and clamped in a 5c collet block to drill pinning holes.





Blades pinned and done.






Then I started putting things together and that's when it happened :toilet: pieces hit the floor.
So next I need to get the displacer parts taken apart to remake shaft and bushing.


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## Deanofid (Nov 13, 2010)

Yes, those fan blades look great, Doc! So sorry to hear about the mishap with the
other parts of the engine. A crummy thing to happen to such a nice guy.


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## doc1955 (Nov 13, 2010)

Thanks Dean!
And big thanks to you Arnold it worked got the parts disassembled without any damage to anything.

I chucked the displacer assembly up in the lathe and turned at the slowest speed while heating with a small butane torch. I was just about to give up when it got hot enough for the loctite to release. It worked like a charm.





Here are the parts all disassembled.











So now I can get started making a new bushing and connecting rod.
I'm thinking since I don't have another piece of graphite close to the right size I'll make it out of acetal or also known as delrin since I have that on hand.


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## Deanofid (Nov 14, 2010)

Doc, I have some extra graphite here. If you want some to make a new part, let me know and I can put it in the mail Monday morning.

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 14, 2010)

Nice looking blades Doc.
A couple of mishaps and you don't miss a beat...you make it seem like part of the process.


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## b.lindsey (Nov 14, 2010)

I'm happy the damage wasn't worse doc and that you have recovered most of it. Am really looking forward to seeing it run!

Bill


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## doc1955 (Nov 14, 2010)

Dean thanks for the offer!
 But the plans did call for acetal the graphite was one of my deviations.
I think I'll make it to plans and table the graphite. I will be ordering some other stuff from Enco so I'll order some of the sizes I'm missing for stock. I like to keep a little of the various sizes on hand. 
 But thanks again for the offer.
Now to head out to the shop and get some stuff done before I get side tracked.


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## doc1955 (Nov 20, 2010)

Well got the bushing that I broke replaced and turned up and fitted the piston and set the proper length of power connecting rod.





Piston blank turned up ready for wrist pin hole.






Wrist pin hole drilled. Next mill rod end pocket.





Milling pocket.





Piston done.





Setting rod length.




Setting length bottom of stroke with a .025 feeler to set clearance.

Try for a run tomorrow keeping my fingers crossed. If things go well and I get a runner will get the second fan caught up and design up a flame guard and do some final polishing before final assembly.

Well we will see what tomorrow brings.


PS Was a good day to spend in shop today the high temp for the day was 12f degrees with snow blowing around. Suppose to be the same for tomorrow so I shouldn't get any interruptions. :


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## doc1955 (Nov 21, 2010)

Well things went well first run took some time to heat up but once it was up to temp took right off and run until all the fuel was gone and it cooled down (about a half hour). The cooling fins were only slightly warm to my amazement. 
 Let it sit and cool off for about 2 hours and set up the video camera and taped the second run. Here is the video of that run.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-0ZyovOqnE[/ame]

now I need to create a heat shield and flame guard and give it a final polish and maybe work on a different lamp. I'm a happy camper need to also get second fan finished. For the flame guard I'm thinking of using some brass screen I happen to have laying around we will see.


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## TuxMan (Nov 21, 2010)

Doc

Great looking and great running!!! Congratulations.

Eric


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## kustomkb (Nov 21, 2010)

"It works all right" Does it ever! Congratulations, great job!


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## doc1955 (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks Eric and Kevin.
I ran several tanks of fuel though fan one today while I worked on fan #2 it continues to run well.
I'm still a happy camper. I hope number 2 runs as good and I don't drop any more things!
I started modeling up a flame guard mount to mount screen to. Thinking about making a split ring to out of stainless material to mount screen to. 
But before actual fabrication need to get number 2 running.

 O h by the way I didn't mention this but the first run I had it running backward the fan was sucking air in not blowing . So during the cool down and setting up the tripod I switched the timing to run the correct way.


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## kcmillin (Nov 21, 2010)

Nicely done Doc, I love the functionality of this engine. 

How much air does that fan move? It seems like its ticking over quit nicely under load. :bow:

Kel


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## doc1955 (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks Kel
It does kick up a pretty good breeze.
 I hope to get some shop time tomorrow after work if I don't get volunteered for anything else :
I'd like to be able to get number 2 up and running by the end of the week.


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## Deanofid (Nov 21, 2010)

Put a smile on my face!  ;D Runs really well, Doc, and I can feel the breeze from here. Congrats! 
I even like the sound it makes. A nice, quiet mechanical sound. Your salt shaker lamp looks
rather classy to me, too. I have shakers just like that one.

I've forgotten, this is the miniature size fan? 

Dean


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## doc1955 (Nov 21, 2010)

Thanks Dean
It is setting on a board I use on my lathe to protect the ways during chuck change just in case I do one of my dropsie things : it really echos through it.


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## arnoldb (Nov 22, 2010)

Good going Doc :bow: - a very nice runner!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## doc1955 (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks Arnold.


Dean,
 No it is called the Super Stiring Fan
http://www.jerry-howell.com/SuperFan.html
The mini is about half this size.


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## Deanofid (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks Doc!


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## doc1955 (Nov 22, 2010)

Well got number 2 put together but not as lucky at getting this one to run right away.
This is the one that I dropped and had to remake bushing and displacer shaft. And the bushing material on this one is delrin. I ordered some graphite to replace the bushing if I have to. I never did like working with delrin. And for this type of application I prefer graphite. I am letting a electric fan power it to try and run a break in to see if I can get it to free up a little. It's been spinning over for about an hour now I'll let it spin for a couple more hours.Then I'll give it another try after work tomorrow afternoon.


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## doc1955 (Nov 23, 2010)

Well did succeed to get number 2 to run but not near as good as 1. I took the delrin bushing out and put a shaft the same size as the displacer shaft drilled a cross hole and put it in a dremel motor and used it to open up the bushing slightly. Well after it did run pretty good for a short time then just barely. I ordered some graphite I'll replace the delrin with graphite. Until then I'm going to move on to the heat shield and flame guard.
 I'm thinking of modeling up a Ringbom engine and making that my next model or maybe a 2cylinder IC engine. I have been amazed at some of the ringboms I've seen. I did purchase the book Minature Ringbom Engines by James R. Senft it a very informative book.


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## doc1955 (Nov 26, 2010)

Well turned up a punch to punch out the heat shield rings.






Turned up the punch leave a .020 ring to cut od and a ring to cut id chamfered to a sharp edge.


















The bumps on the heat shield are caused by using a exacto knife to remove it from punch.





Here is heat shield ready to be put into place on fan. I also used a piece of teflon I had for backing when punching part out.


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## doc1955 (Nov 27, 2010)

Here is a video of both fans running.
If I keep the flame low they will run continuously until fuel is gone.
I had them running for 3 hours on one and ran out of fuel the other went about an hour and half longer so I think I have every thing working as it should. Still need to do some cleaning and polish then I'll try and get a better video. Until then 

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7lrJFZe51c[/ame]


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## Deanofid (Nov 28, 2010)

Excellent, Doc! They have a quiet ticking sound that works like some kind of mechanical soothing for
me. Great to see them running together. You have your own little wind farm!


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## b.lindsey (Nov 28, 2010)

Beautiful Doc...on both fans!! There are few that can enjoy the breeze and muted ticking of sterling fans in STEREO!!
They both run great and seem steady as a rock from the videos. Its been a nice thread to watch...so what do you have in mind next?

Regards,
Bill


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## doc1955 (Nov 28, 2010)

Thanks Bill!
Stereo for only a short while one is going to be boxed up and put under the Christmas tree.
I think I'm going to build a Ringbom stirling next I've been wanting to build that style of stirling for awhile now. I've taken the internal dimensions of a miniature Ringbom and am modeling up around it. 
  I'd like to build the little mini ic engine that some are build also but I think the Ringbom will be next.



Thanks Dean!
 The ticking sound getting softer and softer as I run them. They will both run non stop until out of fuel now that I have the flame a lot smaller.
Thanks again for checking in and the comments.


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## doc1955 (Nov 28, 2010)

One more video of both running.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goDEP3SS_zU[/ame]


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## ksouers (Nov 28, 2010)

Congratulations Doc!!

They look great. It's amazing how long the second one ran on just the residual heat!

 th_wav


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## doc1955 (Nov 28, 2010)

Thanks Kevin.
 Yes one runs much better than the other. The odd thing is the one that runs the slowest is the on that runs the best. I've tried to trace down the reason why but have failed to identify the reason.


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## arnoldb (Nov 29, 2010)

Good going Doc Thm: - very well done indeed :bow: :bow:!

Regards, Arnold
I'm slightly jealous now...


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## Deanofid (Nov 29, 2010)

You're a top notch modeler, Doc. They both look great, and run beautifully. Well done.


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## doc1955 (Nov 29, 2010)

Thanks Arnold and Dean!

I started putting some drawing together for my next project.
I'm calling this project done.

Thanks again all who followed along on this build. I know I was not real steady on the progress and my pictures aren't the best but I tried.


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## doc1955 (Dec 25, 2010)

Well one of the fans is in it's new home. My father-in-law was pretty happy.
I have gotten both the fans to run on just birthday candles. He couldn't wait see it running he had it running before I left for home. I know he will be showing off his new addition to his engine collection.
 Now to get serious about the next project. After all his birthday is less than a month away .


PS

Hope everyone had a good Christmas!


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## b.lindsey (Dec 26, 2010)

Doc, I saw your post in the finished model section but am posting here. Great work on both fans and I am sure your father-in-law will cherish the one you made for him. So tell us what's up your sleeve for the next project 

Bill


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## doc1955 (Dec 26, 2010)

Thanks Bill 

I'm modeled up a Ringbom Stirling which I'm going attempt to build next.


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## doc1955 (Dec 30, 2010)

Been running the fan I kept for my own it has about 25 or 30 hours of run time on it now.
It will run on a pretty small flame. I may have to build a couple more as some friends have suggested they would like one. But they will have to wait I do have a work in progress going now and that will come first.


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