# Southbend toolpost, terrible finish



## Naiveambition (Jul 6, 2017)

Name of the thread says it all.   I'm trying to learn a new to me, lathe and so far the turning finish is just plain bad.  I've been using the Latern post, even when resetting multiple times for center adjustment. 

 I've noticed that my tool holders also hold an angle on the tool itself, plus the included rocker position without shimming .  This seems excessive rake to me,, should I  just block it up to level center? 

  Thinking hard on just building a 4 way toolpost from steel and bypass the problem . But would like to know how to use the lantern. 
 Or am I just missing something.  It's an updated south bend 9 from the 30s


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## goldstar31 (Jul 6, 2017)

I think that your reference to the 30's is a bit wrong but if the old fashioned Armstrong tool holders are used, the correct height and tool angles can be maintained by shimming . I confess that my Armstrong tool holders are 'somewhere' in my collection. Probably in the next cage to my White Elephants.

Having said that, it would be easy enough to fabricate 4 way tool holders by bolting up three bits of steel plate and move onto a system more in keeping with today.

Of course, no one knows if your 'paint' restoration described earlier was sufficient to get your lathe to turn to a fine finish- once you have got the tooling properly sorted. 

The correct way- methinks- was to see if the lathe actually worked.

I took a wrecked Myford Super7B to probably better than factory but note that the paint work leaves much to be desired.

So I look forward you seeing what improvements are made

Regards

Norman


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## ShopShoe (Jul 6, 2017)

Naiveambition,

I would probably buy or build a quickchange toolpost myself.

For starters, trying a 3 or 4 position holder might also be an option to see if you like that better.

And then, I won't ignore the tangental tool users either, might be worth a try.

If you are really interested in the lantern tool post with Armstrong holder approach they are discussed by mrpete222 on YouTube: I'm sorry I can't recommend individual videos as he has so many. He uses many different lathes with different setups and on some of the older videos he describes more about machining and spends less time presenting his views on life (!!!??). 

--ShopShoe


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## Niels Abildgaard (Jul 6, 2017)

Sounds like when I got my Boxford many years ago.
A photo of Your setup will be helpfull.
I had at least three ways to improve finish.
First was a banded regular pattern using power feed cut structure be it facing or normal longitudinal.
It disappered when turning handles by hand.
Disconnected drive from spindle to gearbox and turned the system with a low speed electric screwdriver.
It was binding regularly but not in phase with leadscrew.Phew ,no bent leadscrew, but a very mistreated wheel in gearbox.
A little work with a file and bands disappered.
Next improvement was putting lathe on a rock and this gives a dramatic improvement on chatter resistance and overall wellbeing of subject,lathe and me.
If You have a southbend on a thin piece of wood or tinplate it will not be giving what it really can.
A canadian did the same for a Myford and was impressed enough to admit it.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=15300&page=6


The third avenue was to make some ultrarigid toolholders for normal and parting of .

In Your case I would remove compound slide and support a tool stifly direct on crosslide and see if it  surface improves.


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## packrat (Jul 8, 2017)

Try and find a quickchange toolpost for your South Bend. I think you will be much happier. Keep your old Lateran post for some work, it may come in handy.
Do you have copy of South Bends HOW TO RUN A LATHE..? lots of information there about lathe cutting tools. A four way tool post is also hard to get the center height right you are always trying to find a shim to put under the tool to get center height..In faked I have one you can have cheep..


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## 428Bird (Jul 8, 2017)

I bought a Chinese CXA quick change for my lathe and I am extremely happy with it. For what I'm doing, it's excellent.

Britt Bettell


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## john_reese (Jul 9, 2017)

It is not a necessity to buy a new toolpost.  If your lantern style toolpost has a properly fitted ring and rocker it will be rigid enough.  The cause of poor finish is improper sharpening or presentation of the tool.  If you do not have it find "How To Run a Lathe" by South Bend.  Lots of digital copies on the net.  The old style tool holders pretty much limit you to using high speed steel bits.  Some old style holders held the bit parallel with body of the holder.  These were designed for solid or brazed carbide bits.  Small lathes generally work best with positive rake tooling.  The high speed steel bits can be ground to optimize cutting angles for the material being cut.   Modern toolholders like the Aloris clones are very convenient, as are carbide insert toolholders.  I find it difficult to make very light ( a couple thou) cuts with carbide inserts.  Most have a small negative rake hone at edge.   I do have quick change tool holders for my lathes.  Recently I made tangential tool holders for the BXA that let me present a dead sharp bit at a high rake angle.  I use them regularly for finishing cuts.  I also made a holder for the CXA toolpost on my 13" lathe.  It holds a HSS bit on a 12* back rake.  The front edge of the bit is relieved 8*.  The top has a narrow groove that provides a 15* side rake and acts as a chipbreaker.  I use it as a finishing cutter.    If you do choose to go the route of a QCTP and carbide insert holders I suggest using inserts designed for aluminum for finishing, CCGX, as an example.  They are ground to a sharp cutting edge and provide a positive cutting rake.


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## Hopper (Jul 9, 2017)

On an old lathe like that, poor finish can be caused by a number of factors. The lantern toolpost will provide a perfect finish on a perfectly set up lathe. You do have to be careful not to have too much tool overhang. A pic of  your set up would help determine this. 
Other factors could include worn bed ways, gibs, dovetails, headstock bearings and chuck. A fancy toolpost will not compensate for any of these.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 10, 2017)

I recall writing on this subject some 20 years ago and also some 10 years ago on 'wear' and understandably don't wish to have to repeat myself for the umpteenth time.

The simple test of bad finish is probably to see what happens when the tool is advanced on an offset by say 12 degrees on slide and see what happens. A tool advanced by one thous should produce an almost 
imperceptical dustting of swarf which can be crumbled in the fingers and which doesn't necessitate the use of a sterilised needle to remove the swarf!

If the latter persists , all the paint and fancy tool posts will be of no avail. 

My take which you may or may not accept but it follows Connolly in his Machine Tool Reconditioning book which, if my memory recalls, deals with a SouthBend

Norm


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## packrat (Jul 10, 2017)

Here is some good information on putting the lathe tool on center...
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MrjnIcscxI[/ame]


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## PopAlexandra (Jul 11, 2017)

428Bird said:


> I bought a Chinese CXA quick change for my lathe and I am extremely happy with it. For what I'm doing, it's excellent.
> 
> Britt Bettell



I second that. Works just fine for my small projects. Good quality/price ratio.


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## Blogwitch (Jul 11, 2017)

N,

There is usually more to problems than the obvious.
Because you have a fairly old machine, have you checked for flatness of the toolpost mount and the flatness of the under surface of your lantern holder? If they aren't totally flat, your toolpost could be minutely wobbling on it's mount causing the centre height to change as you start cutting. I had to surface grind the top of a Myford ML10 topslide because of that type of problem. After he fitted a QCTP onto the reground surface, everything was perfect.

Are your gibs adjusted up and lubricated correctly? If not, that can cause the tool tip to rock up and down.

One thing you shouldn't do is hold tipped tools in a lantern type of holder. Tips are ground or moulded to exact angles for optimum performance and are designed to work when the tip toolholder is perfectly horizontal. Your type of holder doesn't allow that, as it has the tip height adjust on it. OK for HSS ground tips that can be altered by grinding to give a few extra degrees of clearance but not for the exact angles required by tungsten tips.

John


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## goldstar31 (Jul 11, 2017)

My comments deleted

Regards

An older N


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## Naiveambition (Jul 11, 2017)

If I can remember correctly,  I tried a high speed steel , and a carbide bit. Carbide tip was worse.    

My toolset came with a bunch of high clearances bits so ima try that.  As for the machine, the bed is dated 1929 but the rest of the parts are variously dated up thru the 50s.  The bes as a whole still has all frosting marks on it except the high traffic area.    
 Admittingly I have no experience to relate to except my 7x10 that's nice, quite, and do the job slowly....  Whereas the south bend can be super aggressive, loudish, shakes the table&#129299;&#129299;.  The shaking is from the pulley system as it rotates it bounces the tension plate for the motor. I've tried to soften it by weight . And while better,  still needs addressed. This setup is not typical unless you mount the countershaft on the wall.   

The Latern toolpost does have a rocker shim  and I am using the Armstrong tool holders.  I think all of them have some degree of rake built in.   
The south bend manual is kinda vague on instructions so.  Is the rocker the center adjustment or do I also shim on top of the rocker?


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## goldstar31 (Jul 11, 2017)

As I can claim being part of a pre-WW2 generation and sort of still feel at home with flat belts and hard and fast pulleys and all the delights  of having graduated in the University of Hard Knocks, you might do a lot worse than forget '7 by whasits' and carbides and all that Jazz and  load up your printer with 500 +sheets and print out Robert Smith's Advanced Machine Tool Work which is still available as a pdf.  YOUR machine and its multitudes of set ups is there. 

No photos or that sort of thing but decent write ups an d sketches  on procedures.

In a fit of idiotic charity, I donated my copy of the book and have regretted it ever since. 

Forget those with 'wise saws and modern instances' and immerse yourself in sheer practical engineering. 

Regards

the Ancient N


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## doc1955 (Jul 11, 2017)

Here is a very easy way t set your tool height on the lathe. And nothing special is needed.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpCu56O8AJ0[/ame]


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## kuhncw (Jul 11, 2017)

What material are you cutting when you get the poor finish?

Chuck


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## Naiveambition (Jul 11, 2017)

I also am a super fan of all things old , quite simply cause they work well and are well made.  So when I am not figureing out why it won't do what I want,  I am usually missing one little thing, and then it's bliss.    
I was turning stainless I think, possibly a good tool steel. 
Same with the lathe.  I'm hoping it's just a rake issue.  I just can't understand the need for rake built into the holder vs being level.   
 What's the disadvantage or advantage of this system. The tooling used in my book are different from what I have. So again no real reference. I will look at the book goldstar suggests 

   I like the smallness of the Latern , but only accepts 1/4 in. Bits, so if I can I will use it often. Will build a toolpost for other bigger toolbits I can use.


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## kuhncw (Jul 11, 2017)

A good finish on some types of stainless steel, 304 for example, can be a challenge.  Have you tried test cuts in 6061 aluminum, brass, and perhaps 12L14 steel?  

Chuck


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## 10K Pete (Jul 11, 2017)

Naiveambition said:


> I'm hoping it's just a rake issue.  I just can't understand the need for rake built into the holder vs being level.



Tool holders with a built-in rake angle are for just that purpose. Saves you having to grind the second angle on the rake surface. 

The no-rake holders were for brazed carbide tools.

I wish I had a set of Armstrong holders in 1/4", 5/16" and 3/8". There are some jobs where they are much easier than a QCTP.

Pete


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## goldstar31 (Jul 12, 2017)

10K Pete said:


> Tool holders with a built-in rake angle are for just that purpose. Saves you having to grind the second angle on the rake surface.
> 
> The no-rake holders were for brazed carbide tools.
> 
> ...


 
As far as I can deduce, the now defunct Armstrong company created tools which were forerunners of the now much vaunted( by some) tangential tools. The no rake variety for early carbides was simply because carbides were then too]brittle to hold a decent cutting edge- and brute mechanical power was used to literally push metal off rather than cutting it.

Having written this, I am sure that Pete fully understands this.

Adding to his excellent comments, newcomers tend to forget that there have always been problems in producing good finishes and in many industries it was normal to machine to within say 2 or 3 thous of the finished size and then 'paper' or file or transfer the part to a cylindrical grinder. 

Few of us have such tooling and subsequent developments have rendered these expedients largely unnecessary. However we as hobby machinists have to resort other solutions. I suspect that there is a lot of unmentioned Grobert files and things like wooden clamps impregnated with assorted grades of abrasives in many workshops.

My excuse( :hDe is the good old fashioned leaded steels such as EN1A which create a beautiful finished surface on quite ancient machines .

I can't recall having seen such comments here before and feel free to accept or reject

Norm


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## Blogwitch (Jul 12, 2017)

10K Pete,

Modern versions are available, I have the 1/2" set, but they are only horizontal ones, a few items down on here, they should be available in the US if we can get them here.

https://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog..._Sets___Loose_HSS_Toolsteel_Toolbits__66.html


John


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## Naiveambition (Jul 12, 2017)

Thanks goldstar31 for the info , u nailed it on the head.       I tried again last nite with high speed steel and same result.  
 I've often had issues with hss,  only one small grinder I have will make a decent tip, although they don't last long.  

Something I need to work on is sharpening.   
I like the idea of having many tools/options as I can so still working on the hss /Latern setup.

This time I blocked up the cutter using  hss to level center.  Much better but not ideal.   Switched to an insert cutter and was much nicer.   Even on my little lathe I use inserts mostly.  Granted I know I'm not using their full potential, the seem to work for me. On the Southbend I was taking massive cuts and the tips didn't seem to wear.   

issues noticed; the Latern post will seat somewhat leaning when tight and maybe cause the wrong orientation of the tool, or move while under cuts.  
 Here's 303 stainless using the inserts.  You can see the difference in finish to the right,  that is an unsupported horseshoe. But the left is with support .  I can still tweak the shimming to make it better.


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## Hopper (Jul 12, 2017)

Naiveambition said:


> If I can remember correctly,  I tried a high speed steel , and a carbide bit. Carbide tip was worse.
> 
> My toolset came with a bunch of high clearances bits so ima try that.  As for the machine, the bed is dated 1929 but the rest of the parts are variously dated up thru the 50s.  The bes as a whole still has all frosting marks on it except the high traffic area.
> Admittingly I have no experience to relate to except my 7x10 that's nice, quite, and do the job slowly....  Whereas the south bend can be super aggressive, loudish, shakes the table&#55358;&#56595;&#55358;&#56595;.  The shaking is from the pulley system as it rotates it bounces the tension plate for the motor. I've tried to soften it by weight . And while better,  still needs addressed. This setup is not typical unless you mount the countershaft on the wall.
> ...



Way too much tool overhang in the picture with this post. 
Try sliding the HSS tool bit back into the holder by at least 50 per cent. Leave just the ground part sticking out. Then when you mount the tool holder in the lantern post, slide that back as far into the tool post as possible before clamping down. Less overhang = less up and down force on the whole assembly = less movement = better finish.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 13, 2017)

Of course Hopper is quite correct but your remark about the existence of some wear on the bed suggests that there could be wear elsewhere . Several writers have more than hinted and whilst you have done quite well. you should address the matter now.
Again, it would be interesting to find out what your plans are to grind and then hone hss tool bits. There are TWO issues here, not one.

Cheers


Norm


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## goldstar31 (Jul 13, 2017)

I came across my old book by Ian Bradley in the Model and Allied Publications of Argos Books entitled  Shaping Machine and Lathe Tools.

Oddly it was first published when I was 'Boss' of a Technical Library in the Royal Air Force.  I wasn't even 19 until half way through the year but there ye go, laughin and scratchin!

Got quite a lot about lantern tool posts as well as quite a lot on a generation before carbides really came in.  My father and I had used them before the War and in a few years, I was doing research into production problems and solutions  on cutting stuff made from rock wool. 

I can hardly believe it but I often sit bored as a mentor and look at the ceilings of a lot of masonic halls etc and realise that the tiles were still up there- because of me! 

Bradley- with Dr Norman Fallows wrote extensively as Duplex presumably because  bright as they were , they didn't know how to retire at 55 and live a little.

Norm


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## Naiveambition (Oct 30, 2017)

I finally got around to starting a new tool post. .   I've started to get the Latern toolpost to work with shims and inserts.      The finish is still not nice  but semi acceptable.

   The new toolpost is basically a way to see where exactly my issue is.  If I get a nice finish with the TP then I'll know the problem isn't machine related.  If not,  I will be saying.  
  " im not for suurre, but the problem may be that I don't know what the [email protected] I'm doin" &#128516; 

One side accepts up to 1/2 inch toolbits  and the other side will be 3/8.   Here's where I'm at so far.


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## john_reese (Oct 31, 2017)

Looking at the toolpost I would suspect one of two reasons for the rough finish: an uneven feed rate or a built up edge on the tool.


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## Naiveambition (Nov 2, 2017)

What do u mean by build up on the tool?    

Finished the toolpost today and am much happier..    I ran the test on some stainless bar, with an insert I use only for heavy metal removal, not so much for fine finishing.   Results were much nicer than before.     Ido think with carbide or hss it should be even better.    

As for the problem,  it seems to b tool post related vs the machine being outta whack. Which is a good thing, since I can now work very close to the chuck which I couldn't before.    Here's a pic on the machine

One thing I have noticed is that working on the Southbend vs my 7x10 is that it is a MACHINE.   Oil everything , check all the tightening check the belt ,  adjust this , adjust that,  now 10 minutes later we are ready for a cut,   My 7x10 is just position tool, oil ways ,  turn on.   Even though I'm still happy with the SB since my smallish cuts seem huge to me vs. my small lathe


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## Billitmotors (Nov 2, 2017)

G'day Naiveambition
I have fond memories of South Bend lathes from my apprenticeship days.
Your finish problems could come from a number different areas.
1. always make sure that your tool is dead on centre unless you are boring and then have the tool above centre.
2. Make sure that the compound slide hasn't been wound forward so that it overhangs it's base support.
3. Check your gib strips adjustments and make sure that there is very little to no play in the compound slide and the cross slide. Any play here will translate to poor finish and marks on your machined surface.
4. You should be able to get a much sharper edge with high speed steel, meaning a better finish,compared to carbide tip tools. 
Carbide tools need a lot more power to drive them, more speed and a much more solid machine to get a good finish.
Your South Bend lathe should perform much better using properly sharpened HSS tools leave the carbide for roughing out and use HSS for finishing.
When you are machining the diameter on long sections if you can always put a centre drill in and then support the end of the job with a rotating centre.
Looking at the photo of your Armstrong tool holder, the HSS tool bit looks as if the tool bit has been put in 90 degrees out of position or it has been ground to cut towards the right or tailstock .
If you use this tool bit to cut towards the chuck the side rake on the top of the tool will be giving you a negative rake which will result in a poor finish.
With this Armstrong tool holder you shouldn't need to grind the top of the HSS as the tool has already been set up to give a decent backrake. Also make sure that there is enough front clearance  to counteract the angle of the tool holder, as well as any induced angle created by the half moon seat in the lantern tool holder if you are going to use it in future.
I like and prefer your new tool post it is much more ridged and you should be able to use HSS as well as carbide tools in it, although you would be better using HSS tools.
HSS tools are not hard to sharpen they are a lot cheaper and you can taylor the shape of your cutting edge to what you want, as well as what works best for your lathe.
You will find that grinding and then honing a small radius on the point of the cutting edge as well as slowing down and using the correct speeds and feeds will give you a much better finish.
Every lathe is different, a speed and feed that works beautifully for one lathe, will give a better or in some cases worse finish on another lathe. You just have to keep experimenting for the best set up until you find the right combination for your lathe.
I hope that this helps
Rob Jenkins.


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## john_reese (Nov 2, 2017)

Billtmotors is right on.

+1 on the tool being rotated.


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## john_reese (Nov 2, 2017)

If you purchase a QCTP the AXA size is about right for the 9" - 10" lathes.  For 12" - 13" the BXA is right.  All Aloris and Dickson style toolposts have adjustment screws for getting the tool at exactly the right height.
With the QCTP you pretty much sacrifice the ability to get back rake on a HSS tool unless you are willing to do a lot of extra grinding on the bit.  One way to get high side and back rake on a tool for the QCTP is to buy or make a tangential tool.  These are my first choice for finish cuts, both turning and facing.  I can easily make cuts as small as .0002" with that tool.  Another tool for fine finishing is a vertical shear tool.  It is primarily for turning but I think it would work for facing starting at the OD and working toward the middle.


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## goldstar31 (Nov 2, 2017)

Following up the advice from other contributors- and myself, there is an awful lot of bullsh1t written about tool grinding whereas the best advice came from Tubal Cain( the English one) when he said that one cannot better what the finish is on the cutting edge of one's lathe tool.

If you have a mirror finish in which you can see your dirty finger nail reflected or your can cut off the hairs on your forearm, you are getting somewhere. can you get it from using a grit size of 36 g? If your interest is doing sidewalks, fine. If you are doing what really should be the province of turning to plus 0.002 to o.003" and don't have a cylindrical grinder or whatever, you have to think again.

In my scrappy suggestion about what old Bradley wrote, he actually suggested a rough grind, then a finer grind and the extreme edge- finer still. Of course, you have to buy the book or perhaps the book Amateurs Lathe by Sparey- who probably designed the bloody thing that you want to make- and he suggested 'a pinch of diamond dust'

Diamond dust as he described in the days when I was a lad was a lot more difficult than getting a pack of graded little syringes of synthetic stuff or if you are prepared to settle for merely acceptable surface , then one of these sintered metal plates with perhaps 600 grit will suffice.

Over the many years, I can still hand hone enough to get 'barely perceptical grey dust' from a bit of hss or even a bit of a hex key or even a bike spoke! For younger mortals, you can get away with nothing more elaborate than steadying the honing with a nice bit of smooth plywood.

IMO, far too much ballyhoo is written about this and that tool whereas the simple fact if you want a depth of cut of 10thous, you only need a cutting edge of 11thous. The rest of the tool that is not in cut, can be as rough as a badger's backside.

OK, now go and stop writing about your failures and give your wallet spanner an airing. You might even need a supply of BandAids if you finally have razor sharp tools.

Norm


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## 10K Pete (Nov 2, 2017)

I'd like to see a pic of your (Naiveambition) part, in the lathe, with the tool presented to the work ready to cut or even cutting. Still pic.

Like Norm (Goldstar1) has said, a good finish is impossible without a sharp tool presented properly.

Tool posts only need to be rigid, it doesn't matter what type it is!

A sharp tool, held short and rigid, is how you get there. I have put 1/2" tool bits, HSS of course, directly in the rocker tool post to get the needed rigidity. 

Pete


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## goldstar31 (Nov 2, 2017)

I'm having a think and wondering whether you are swopping and fiddling about  and confusing the two separate metal removing processes.

Lots of inserts require relatively massive horse power and rigidity  to push the metal away whilst I'm a bit old fashioned and want to cut metal rather than shove it off.

My lathes are at best only putting out about a horse power of which lots is going as friction - BEFORE they  get to work.

No good trying to serve TWO masters- and don't really know how to serve one

N


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## Wizard69 (Nov 4, 2017)

goldstar31 said:


> As far as I can deduce, the now defunct Armstrong company created tools which were forerunners of the now much vaunted( by some) tangential tools. T
> 
> Norm



Hi Norm;

Just to clarify Armstrong the tool company is still around as part of the Apex group.   That brand is apparently only focused on hand tools these days as I don't see any reference to lathe tooling online.    Too bad but likely due to declining markets for the older approaches to cutter holding.


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## goldstar31 (Nov 5, 2017)

Thank you for the information. I suspect that these came from a generation where metal removal was roughly  done on a lathe only to be finished off in seconds on a grinder. 

Again, South Bends and Myfords also come from much the same era and have been largely superseded in the real world of industry.
All that seems to be relevant is that it was not economic to produce this type of lathe in the UK or perhaps Western Europe. The companies have 'gone to the wall' and we are left with suppliers who satisfy minority needs. These minority needs are supplied by a workforce who will accept wages and conditions which are no longer acceptable in the Western World. 

The rest of my thoughts  are political and have no place here.

Norm


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## RM-MN (Nov 5, 2017)

goldstar31 said:


> I'm having a think and wondering whether you are swopping and fiddling about  and confusing the two separate metal removing processes.
> 
> Lots of inserts require relatively massive horse power and rigidity  to push the metal away whilst I'm a bit old fashioned and want to cut metal rather than shove it off.
> 
> ...



That really isn't quite true.  Inserts are made for industry and quick tool rejuvenation.  If the edge isn't as sharp as it should be, it can survive and still cut if enough horsepower is applied and the carbide will last longer than tool steel in that application.  With tool steel it takes a sharpening to make it cut well again when it dulls and that takes time and expertise.  Changing out a carbide insert takes seconds and no real expertise at all.  If you get a carbide insert that requires a lot of horsepower to make the cut, a couple minutes with a diamond stone can make that edge sharper and it will cut better.


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## bazmak (Nov 5, 2017)

Carbide inserts will also take a few grinds on a diamond wheel to produce
a good cutting/finishing edge.I can get a mirrorlike finish in the mill with
a homemade flycutter.The tip dressing works well,although many many
years ago i was told that throwaway tips were just that


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## DJP (Nov 5, 2017)

+1 for Bazmak's comments. Indexable carbide inserts can be sharpened for home/hobby use and they do a good job. You lose the ability to rotate or change inserts while retaining the set up but for my use that's not an issue. In the CNC world it would be important.

I look for worn carbide inserts that I can sharpen as they are cost effective (free) usually. Holders are easy to fabricate so I'm a fan of repurposed carbide inserts. They do need to be knife edge sharp as already stated and they work on small lathes even at low rpm spindle speeds.

Just some thoughts for consideration.


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## mcostello (Nov 5, 2017)

If One would listen to the "world" a lot of things are supposedly "throwaway" but can be repaired/reused.


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## john_reese (Nov 5, 2017)

Wizard69 said:


> Hi Norm;
> 
> Just to clarify Armstrong the tool company is still around as part of the Apex group.   That brand is apparently only focused on hand tools these days as I don't see any reference to lathe tooling online.    Too bad but likely due to declining markets for the older approaches to cutter holding.


I understand the Armstrong plant was damaged y flooding and Apex would not rebuild it.  Looks like another fine American brand is dead.


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## goldstar31 (Nov 5, 2017)

I was brought up on the ability to use whatever was available during WW2. In other words, I probably know rather more about the topic than is first supposed. Again, I was involved with the development of cutting rockwool and asbestos  products. I'm as old as that

However, the question arises of not what WE do but what our original poster does or can do. 
I can only hope that he is not drowned in a sea of good intentions.

Regards

N


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