# Hoglet started (and running!)



## kustomkb

I started the hoglet engine. If all goes well I might try to build a bike around it. 9 pieces down a hundred more to go.
I will try to take progress pics for the rest.


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## BobWarfield

I'm really intrigued by these "hoglets". Where does one get the plans?

Best,

BW


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## Jasonb

Plans and build article were in Model engine Builder Mag (issue 10 & 11), you should be able to get back issues OK from them. I'm thinking of giving this one a go as a side project for when I get fed up with the platework on my Traction Engine, rather be turning & milling 


http://www.modelenginebuilder.com/default.htm

Jason


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## Brass_Machine

I love that engine. Gonna build one myself one day. I have a love affair for twin engines. Either 'V' or parallel.


Eric


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## MatiR

Looking good brass_machine. I've made some progress on mine - the cylinder heads, valve guides, rocker arms, etc. and will post some pictures in my previous thread from a few weeks ago when I get a chance.

M.


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## kustomkb

Roughed out the connecting rods today. Maybe op 2 tommorrow.
Just make the BZZZZZZZZZ sound when you watch.

http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=7207859263374062264&hl=en

http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=2920292489654575466


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## BobWarfield

Jasonb  said:
			
		

> Plans and build article were in Model engine Builder Mag (issue 10 & 11), you should be able to get back issues OK from them. I'm thinking of giving this one a go as a side project for when I get fed up with the platework on my Traction Engine, rather be turning & milling
> 
> 
> http://www.modelenginebuilder.com/default.htm
> 
> Jason



Well that was easy. You can subscribe and purchase back issues online.

Thanks!

BW


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## Bernd

BobWarfield  said:
			
		

> Well that was easy. You can subscribe and purchase back issues online.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> BW



I ordered the whole back issue set. Took a while to get them all. Also subscribed. The first issue should be showing up this week or next, I hope  They're a bit slow with the publication but well worth it. I hope they last longer than Strictly I.C. did.

Bernd


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## kustomkb

Did the turning for the 2 piston's today. I agree the magazine is great. The seperate drawings you get are really nice. The Hoglet article does not mention the ignition electrics or tuning. This is my first IC and am very excited to get it to run but I I don't know how you guys run these. Is there a battery in the base which is supplying the coil? And the Hall Effect signals the timing? Model Engine Builder has an article about the Vietti magneto, do you think a guy could set one up on this? 

Shop tip- To drill hole depth's accurately on the lathe with a DRO and DTI. I touch the drill off the face of the job with a gage block (1"). Then bring the dial to zero with the stylus on the face of the drill chuck, and zero the Z axis. Then move the longnitudinal feed over the desired depth plus the 1 inch gage block (or whatever) then drill 'till the chuck touches the stylus and brings the dial back to zero and you are there.





http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=-7844356557441163961&hl=en-CA&hl=en


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## zeusrekning

Man you work fast!  I could barely keep up I really like this engine. I ordered the back issues last week. Any idea how long it will take to show up? I hope this will be one of my future projects. I recently put together a hall effect ignition. If I can help in anyway I will be glad to. Send me a PM and I'll show you what I have. I should have all the components to put another one together. The only thing is I am using a cheap ignition coil. It is kind of large but could be hidden. 
Tim


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## Jasonb

Here is a pic of Randal Cox's engine linked up to the ignition system.

http://www.pbase.com/captain_carl/image/67722872

The box contains the battery and fuel tank, the three twisted wires coning from the cam area are the hall effect sensor wires, the coil is in the black cylinder above the kick start.

Jason


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## Bernd

zeusrekning  said:
			
		

> I ordered the back issues last week. Any idea how long it will take to show up?
> 
> Tim



Tim,

It took a while to get then all. They didn't send all the issues at once. IIRC it took several weeks to get all the issues. I believe they have to print them up, I don't think they have issues ready to ship out right away. 

Bernd


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## kustomkb

Thanks for the comments and link and the edit. 

Started the cam housing and made the cover:

http://video.google.ca/videoplay?docid=6542907574563589097











Roughed it out and then realized I didn't have the flute length for the finish pass, should come out in the final polishing.


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## BobWarfield

I haven't seen the article yet. Was the original done with CNC or manual machining?

Just curious,

BW


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## kustomkb

The article and drawings describe fixtures for manual machining.


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## dynosor

kustomkb  said:
			
		

> Sorry about the messy videos, What am I doing wrong?



The lapse-frame video is great. It cuts to the chase and is satisfying to watch.


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## Brass_Machine

So I am a CNC newb... loved the video. But what is that thing you put on top of the part between tool changes??

Eric


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## BobWarfield

I'll answer Brass, that's a Z-axis height setter. He drops his cutter down until it registers on the dial and then he knows exactly how far he is from the work. Very handy. That one shown is a particularly nice one. The cheapies work good too:






I got that one from the infamous 800watt on eBay for $29. I did an article on various ways of setting Z-axis on a mill and this was by far the most accurate--much more accurate than a paper touch off, for example.

Here was the article if interested:

http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCMillTipsTechniques.htm

These are useful not just for CNC, but they're especially critical for CNC between tool changes. The alternative is to measure and record your tool heights if you have a tool holding system that is repeatable. R8 is not.

Cheers,

BW


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## Willy

Hi kustomkb 

Now that you have machined the one side of the connecting rod, what is the procedure for finishing off the other side? How do you hold the rod to finish it?

Great job by the way. Keep up the good work.

Regards
Willy


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## kustomkb

Thanks, I will have to make a nest, (negative form. like a mold) machined into some soft jaws. Then repeat a couple of the opperations, same as the first side. It will be awhile before I can get more progress made... :-[


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## kustomkb

These seem to be videos of Randall Cox's original Hoglet as photographed for Model Engine Builder Magazine.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d4dTMv9lASI[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaDvk0pQ9WQ[/ame]


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## cfellows

It's a beautiful little engine. I saw Randall, his Hoglett and his Open Column Six at PRIME a couple years ago. He does great work!

Chuck


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## Jasonb

The second engine sounds a lot better, maybe its got the different cam profile that he talks about in the build article. I've started to build up the materials for this one myself.

Jason


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## Debian

Would like to ask what kind of cnc mill You use and if You also use a cnc lathe or it's manual. The video of the cnc mill is really suggestive! all the best

Paolo


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## kustomkb

The second engine does sound better, and If anyone has made a sketch Randall's 4 lobe cam they could share that would be great.

I did the milling with a european machine that doesn't have a tool changer. Hopefully that will change in the new year ;D
The turning is all manual.

Looking forward to seeing progress on the other hoglet builds too.

Happy new Year!

Kevin.


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## stevehuckss396

Jasonb  said:
			
		

> The second engine sounds a lot better, maybe its got the different cam profile that he talks about in the build article. I've started to build up the materials for this one myself.
> 
> Jason



Sounds like it has higher compression.


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## kustomkb

got a few jigs made;







Jig for holding the head while it endures several machinig set-ups.






hopefully what it will look like after machining;









A jig for holding the crank webs;







After the second hole is drilled and reamed, I will insert the second locating pin, secured from below with a capscrew;






And what it might look like;






I made an angled plate to set up the cam housing to ream the holes for the cam followers; ( I do not have a dividing head)
















The jig will be located with a pin in the face of a soft jaw in the vise. The centre of the pin will be X.Y. 0.00, Using an adjustable parallel
I plan on taking up the slack until the required angle is securely parallel to the bottom of the vise.
This will set the cam housing to the correct angle and repeated three more times until the axes of all holes meet at the centre of the locating pin.

Clear as mud? Hoefully the WIP pics explain it better.

Where I am at so far;











I plan on building a SS frame as a display stand and hopefully down the road add some more moving parts.

Ciao for now.

-Kevin.


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## steamer

Nice looking parts Kevin!


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## kustomkb

Thanks!

Here sre some modelled parts;


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## steamer

OK what package are you using ......as long as I don't start a cad war...Just curious


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## Maryak

Veeeery Nice :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb

Thanks Fellows,

I do everything in Mastercam, I am going to get some solidworks training next month, It will be nice to check out moving assemblies before making them.


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## MatiR

Lovely work, kustomkb. The "not round" cylinder heads look interesting. I'm still held back on my Hoglet by lack of access to a larger lathe, but soon, I hope.

Dang, I was supposed to post pictures of my cylinder heads, will do so when I get a chance. I am blessed/cursed with too many hobbies 

M.


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## kustomkb

Thanks Mati,

I live in North Delta if you need to borrow the lathe.

-Kevin.


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## kustomkb

A little more progress;

I milled the nests and then machined the flipside of the con-rods;

















Then the other jigs were utilized and I was happy with the resuts;











Have fun!

-Kevin.


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## Maryak

Kevin,

Looking good neat trick with the nests for the conrods - filed in my come in handy list 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb

Thanks Bob, 

Got some shop time in over the weekend,

Turned the outer rims for the flywheel;

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP4GZWUEJ3E[/ame]


Then sanded them before polishing;






Then a little buffing;






Then heated them to 420 for about an hour. They grew alot more than the .0035 interferance I needed.






I spent an hour making oilite bushings which could have been purchased for a few dollars, but would have taken more than an hour to go to the store. : 






Also I could get the .0025 press fit I wanted and final ream after installation;






Also got the valve lifters made and the crank shafts.

Every thing is nice and snug with no play but still rotates freely. A good session indeed. ;D


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## PhillyVa

Look'n great Kevin...I wish I could work that fast :big:

Philly


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## Jasonb

Thats comming along nicely, I've got some hollow cast bronze for my flywheels so just need to skim them inside & out so should get them made even faster than you 

I got the two cylinders done over the weekend, just need to hone the bores for the last thou.

Jason


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## cfellows

Great job, Kevin. I really admire your work.

By the way, how difficult was it to drill the long, deep holes in the sides of the cylinders for the long studs?

Chuck


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## Jasonb

I opted to drill the holes before cutting the fins. There was a small amount of wander in a couple of the holes, I mostly solved this buy enlarging the holes by 0.5mm in all but the top fin so the heads would still be corectly located. One of the holes also needed a lick with a file just to pull it over a bit more.

If I were doing it again I would start with a stub drill after the Ctr drill or cut the fins first and drill all the way with a 1/8" centre drill changing part way for a long series one, then open up to 4mm (I used M4 threads on 5/32 rod)

Jason


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## kustomkb

Thanks Phil, Chuck and Jason.



> I've got some hollow cast bronze for my flywheels so just need to skim them inside & out



I was looking for that, I had some but wrong size, Shame to waste all that brass in the centre.



> how difficult was it to drill the long, deep holes



I haven't drilled them yet. Thought about drilling before the fins like Jason suggested but I was in a turning mood.
So now I might centre drill and drill each fin. Also my parting tool deflected a bit leaving the fins slightly tapered, which complicate the drilling further. 

Stock centre drilled;







Drilling;






boring; (I bored .090 oversize to allow for a .045 wall cast iron sleeve)






Dialing the QCTP back in after setting the compound over 5 deg;






fins ready to cut;






fins cut;






Tapered;






Polished ready for parting;






polishing a few tenths off the spigot end;






And now its starting to look like something! I should change the title to "hoglet half way"!


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## kustomkb

The drawing for this engine calls for a carb purchased from OS engines.

Does anyone have a suitable design they could share?

It would be a shame to slap on a factory made component.

Thank you very much.


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## Jasonb

I have a suitable OS card laying around so will us ethat to start with. May decide to build one which was in Model Engineer Mag a few months back, there is a picture of it fiotted to one of the designers engines half way down this page 

Also worth a look at his latest design the "Bobcat" there is a video of the first run on the home page.

Jason


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## kustomkb

Thanks Jason,

That carb would be perfect! I also have an OS carb I thought about using just to get up and running but I have come this far...

I think between that nice photo and Maryak's step by steps, I should be able to come up with something.

What are you doing for your ignition? Electronic like the RcExcel?

It is very compact and I think it will run off a single Lipo cell.

Kevin.


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## Maryak

kustomkb,

Very nice, :bow:

Glad my ramblings are of use to others.

Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb

Thanks Bob,

It's a real help, none of us were born with these skills so it's good to share. Methinks.

Started on a drill jig I think will keep my centre drill/ drill straight and stiff.

The plan is to c'drill and drill each fin 1/8 in my drill press before opening to a 5/32 slide fit. (wishful thinking)

bore out a large dia. bottom plate to hope for squarness;






Fit bottom spigot;






And tap 1/2-13;






then machine top end that will hold drill bushing;






And ensure fit;






Drill jig without reamed holes for bushing;








have fun!


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## kustomkb

Clarence over at 3 little hogs has built the Hoglet with the 4 lobe cam.

He has done some very nice work.

http://www.telusplanet.net/public/celias/home.htm


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## kustomkb

Drilled the cylinders yesterday.

I clamped the jig to the drill press table, then aligned the bushing with a dowel pin then switched to a long centre drill.
I choked up on the drill for the first few fins and then went to full length. The fins were thin enough so that I was able to pilot drill with the centre drill the whole way;






Then switched to a .146 drill;






And finally reaming size for size to 5/32";






The holes came out very straight thanks to the long drill bushing. And were a snug sliding fit on the studs.

I often end up fighting myself because I make things unnecesarilly close fitting. After trying them out to check for alignment I will need to open them up to ensure the faces of the heads and cylinders are pulled square to one another for a good seal.


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## cfellows

Looks good, Kevin. Nice technique. By the way, where did you get that long center drill?

Chuck


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## kustomkb

Thanks Chuck.

The centre drill has been in my box for years. I also have a 6 inch. Most tooling shops should have them.

Looks like I spoke too soon. One of the holes wandered and will need to be pulled over slightly at the bottom.

It was probably the first hole which I switched to a 1/8 drill after centre drilling only the first fin. :-\


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## kustomkb

I made the brass valve guides today.

Started by setting a "form" tool to 14 deg. to plunge cut the taper where the intake and exhaust blows by;






and the plunge cut;






Then turned the OD for a 0.0015" press fit;






After drilling and plunging out the back end for 0.010" spring ID clearance it was ready for parting off;






Final reaming will be done after instalation.






Next up, finish the heads.


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## itowbig

hey can i get some of that talent so i can make prety parts like these. i really could use some.
thats coming along real nice. thank you im in school everyday.


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## kustomkb

Thanks alot Sid.



> can i get some of that talent



"If you build it, they will come"

A little more today.

Drilled the intake and exhaust holes;






Then drilled and reamed for 1/4 dowels to set the fixture over 21deg.

I reamed a scrap of AL. to ensure the pins pressed in square;






Then replaced the soft jaw and clamped the fixture in place, ready to mill the angled ports;






Ciao for now!


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## Maryak

Kevin,

Nice work. :bow: :bow: ETF ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb

Thanks again Bob. 




> ETF


 ??? ???

Heads set to 21 deg. for intake;






Intake bored; 






Set over for spark plug bore;






Bore complete;






ready for outside contour;






Roughed;






finished;






cooling fins cut;






Test fit of heads;






Also radiussed the tips of the push rods;






And used a crappy tire die nut : to threads 4-40






which cut okay 






Then faced to length and centre drilled the push rods;






And turned down between centres, (had no 3/16 AL)








Have a good day!


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## PhillyVa

Hi Kevin,

Wow that's look'n real good...keep up the great :bow: work :bow:

Can't weit to hear it run and that's no th_bs

Have a great long week end.

Regards

Philly


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## Maryak

Kevin,

Beautiful job. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb

Thanks alot fella's.

This weekend I hope to get the valves and lifters finished and rough out the cam.

Looks like we'll have nice weather for the long weekend finally, eh Phil?

KB


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## PhillyVa

Yea nice for the long weekend and a :-* HONEY :-* DO LIST a yard long. :shrug: Maybe I'll have to go on an building materials run and pop by.

Regards

Philly


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## MatiR

Lovely work - the pics are coming so fast, it's almost a movie ;D


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## cfellows

That's a gonna be a purty engine... Nice Work!

Chuck


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## kustomkb

Thanks Philly MatiR and Chuck.

I also have a honeydo/home improvement list but the foot had to come down and designate some me time.

After work I went to an O-ring distrubutor (with the engine, as Marv suggested) Whom I called before hand to see if they had counter sales, "sure no problem" , "So I can pop by and pick up a couple of O-rings" , "Absolutley"

I get there, ask for said O-rings, "what for ?" , show engine, "Oh theres a 25 dollar minimum."

So if anybody needs viton 020 O-rings, no problem.

My debit card didnt work. Gave them my last 25 dollars cash.

Go next door to get my E-clips, Show engine, "Here, take the whole bag!" "just bring it back when you get it running"

(gave them 1.50 I had in the car)

They will get my business and a recomendation. The other power tripping clown won't be seeing me again. 

Rant over, Also if anybody is considering this build I would be happy to lend out any fixtures I have made. 

(there's enough parts as it is!)

So, got the push rods done. Used my tailstock turret to drill and tap one end;








Also reamed the other end. To set depth of reamer I set up the back end of a boring bar to touch the drill chuck face. zero . move over depth, drill till chuck hits but end again.

I also got he rods and pistons reamed and fitted;







Have a great long weekend, should be around, Eh.


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## kustomkb

Made the CI sleeves this morning.

Centre drilled and drilled;









Then bored to leave a thou' for honing which will be closer to 2 thou' after installation. Then put a 30 deg. bevel on for turning between centres;






Then flipped it around to bevel the other end after clocking it in;






Checked my trusty hardened dead centre and it was less than a thou';






Stuffed a wet rag in the bore to eliminate chatter due to the thin wall;






turned between centre's to leave a thou press fit;






Then relieved 5 thou in a few spots to decrease the resistance during installation and to retain loc-tite;






Finally faced them to length from the top end to remove the bevel;






2 sleeves ready to install after preping some tooling to keep it all straight;


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## Maryak

Kevin,

Very neat, :bow: I like the wet rag and the relieving sections on the OD. What pressing equipment have you. ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb

Thanks Bob,

I usually make a close fitting pilot with a squared base which is wider than the piece being pressed and a shoulder to control press depth. (flush/below) If everything is locked in square its hard to go wrong. And both pieces are protected from distortion.

At home its the big pipe fitters vise with two AL plates to squeeze between.

In the past I have used liquid nitrogen to shrink parts, not having access to that anymore I tried the heating method as with the flywheels and was very happy with the results. A hundred degrees makes a big diffrerence.

KB


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## kustomkb

I set up some tooling to press in my sleeves,

Threaded base from my drill jig, ready rod, guide sleeve and thrust bearing;






Cylinders went in the barbeque to 450 deg;






And then the mad rush to crank them in;


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbKiqeWPG_A[/ame]


Sleeve installed and a quick pass on some 600 paper to see where we are at;


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## rake60

Now that is a "How To" video that deserves notice!
Very well done!

Rick


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## joe d

Kevin:

That's slick, buddy! Another one filed away for when I need it :big:

Cheers, Joe


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## kustomkb

Thanks alot boys!

I just checked in and that really made my day.

That's a technique from the aircraft days, couldn't just throw a 747 on the Bridgeport to open up a bore.

 ;D

Now off to paint the kitchen while the wife's away. 

(I could use the brownie points)


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## Maryak

Kevin,

Beautifully done. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## kustomkb

Thanks Bob!

Had to wait to let the drywall compound dry so why not rough out some kick start parts, I also received my ignition the other day ;D


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## kustomkb

I ended up purchasing 2 feet of 3/8, 2 feet 1/2 and 1 foot of 1 inch diameter of 1144 stessproof for the valves and cam for 30 dollars delivered from online metals. 

C and H sales doesn't seem to have a website anymore. I'm having a hard time finding a suitable clutch /sprocket. Does anyone know an alternate source? or what they are used on.

I am considering modifying a bicycle freewheel or pressing a one way bearing into a sprocket.

I also still need to get the gears.

Thanks,

Kevin.

EDIT;

I found it, they are now http://www.candhsurplus.com/ They have an ebay store with a couple of items.


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## MatiR

kustomkb  said:
			
		

> C and H sales doesn't seem to have a website anymore. I'm having a hard time finding a suitable clutch /sprocket. Does anyone know an alternate source? or what they are used on.
> 
> I also still need to get the gears.



Kevin: I have an extra clutch/sprocket unit as I bought two but have lost one of the four little springs which tension the ratchet. You're welcome to it. It might work with 3 springs or one could cobble a new one. I work at UBC so should be no problem to hand it over.

I got 2 of the gears from BC Bearing in New West 604-524-8505 but 26.90 for the gears cost 27.25 freight. The other gears, driveshaft sprocket and chain from Small Parts.

M.


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## kustomkb

Wow thanks alot! PM sent

Kevin.


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## zeeprogrammer

I just saw the video of your putting the sleeve in. I like that kind of stuff. Very helpful to us (me) know-little-to-nothing-at-alls.

Speaking of which...maybe dumb question...but were the gloves needed? Just curious to know if there was a safety concern or sensitivity to material or tools.

Thanks!


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## Seanol

Zee,
The gloves were because the cylinder was hot. It is heated up to expand the bore and the sleeve is usually cooled to reduce the bore. This is a common way to "shrink fit" parts together. I am not calling this procedure here common, I found it very enlightening!

Sean


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## zeeprogrammer

After your reply I thought I must have missed something.
Like the answer!!!

Oh my. Well I'm embarrassed. Obviously I didn't read the entire thread. :hDe:
Went right to the video.

A great video by the way.

Thanks.


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## kustomkb

Yes it was very hot, I had the sleeves in the freezer but dry ice would have been better.

Got a metric fine tap for the spark plug holes.

Turned a dowel to pick up my pilot hole;






Then opened up to the TDS;






Then turned the other end down to pick up the new hole becuse I didn't leave enough room for the tap/handle; :-[






Then tapped it;






I also have playing with ideas for a "display stand";



View attachment HGLTAND FRAME.PDF


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## kustomkb

Got a little more work done on the kick starter;

Also recieved the sprag clutch and valve springs, Thanks Mati !!






And I got a little too excited drilling the pedal pivot hole; 






That will have to be welded up and re-dressed.

KB


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## kustomkb

I wound a spring for the kick start;







Then cross drilled the sprag clutch with the shaft extension;






Then drilled a clearance hole in a dowel to guide the roll pin;






And drove it home;


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## PhillyVa

Kevin,

Looks like it's coming along very nicely. Is it getting close to finnishing?

I like the spring winding set up...nice and simple.

Regards

Philly


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## kustomkb

Thanks Phil,

Just the cam and valves left plus a few widgets and also still have a carb to make.

Here is that spring installed;






And made a guide to install the valve guides;






set up in the vise;






And driven home;






Now back out to turn some valves. ;D


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## kustomkb

valves turned and lapped into their new homes;


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## kustomkb

Heads completed;


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## Jeff02

This is HIGH on my list of things I would like to build, so Thanks for all the pics and videos, You are making great progress!
 Could I ask where you ordered your sprag clutch and valve springs from? 
I would like to start acquiring the parts just in case I do start to build this engine.

Thanks for your Help!


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## kustomkb

Thanks Jeff.

The clutch and springs were given to me by MatiR. The drawings suggest several sources to purchase from.

The clutch can be purchased from http://stores.shop.ebay.ca/candhsurplus__W0QQ_armrsZ1

He said he has lots left;



> Dear kustomkb,
> 
> Kevin
> 
> We still have a good supply of those sprocket with clutch (GR2002). Let me know if you want some. We have a $20.00 minimum. Thanks Rick
> 
> 
> - candhsurplus



www.smallparts.com is also a good source for gears etc.


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## ksouers

Kev,
The Hoglet's looking really nice! It's getting difficult to keep up with all these WIP threads lately.

Can't wait to see you dance when this one starts up ;D


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## kustomkb

Thanks Kev!

I'm getting pretty excited too, almost there.

I came across this site which has a nice computer rendering and an animation,

http://www.webs1.uidaho.edu/mindworks/past_projects.htm


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## MatiR

Kevin, nice work - got to pull my thumb out but so many toys, so little time ;D

Thanks for that 3D link, very interesting.

M.


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## rake60

Looking fabulous Kevin! 

You know, I've been an industrial machinist for over 30 years.
You are *WAY* over my head on the model scale.
Beautiful craftsmanship.
I'm looking very much forward to the nest update!

Rick


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## kustomkb

Thanks alot Mati and Rick!

This has definately been the most parts I have machined to fit in this size of space ever. Its been alot of fun. And has taken too long.

I hope to have the cam finished by the end of the week, then onto final fit and assembly. ;D


----------



## kustomkb

Today I bored out the timing gear by making a split bushing;











And reamed it to size;






It is held by a split taper which needs some tweaking;






I also made the 4 lobe cam today according to a drawing given to me by Clarence from "Three Little Hogs" on a CNC with a slot cutter and the blank held vertically; 

Thanks Clarence!!









I also gathered materials to build the carb that Jasonb pointed out earlier.

Thanks Jason!!

And then I just had to play a bit to see how it goes together;

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AV71gjKZ8Q[/ame]

I have a couple family functions the next couple weekends.....


----------



## PhillyVa

Hey Kevin...That's sweet

Regards

Philly


----------



## Maryak

Kevin,

It really goes together beautifully. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks for the kind words Philly and Bob.

I managed to squeeze in alittle time to mount the cam and heads today and eliminate a couple more interferences.

Then spun it with a drill and there were some popping noises. ;D and the lifters went up and down. ;D

Make some pipes next and install the ignition.

-KB


----------



## rake60

You're killing me here Kevin!

I'm dying to see this one come to life!!!

Rick


----------



## kustomkb

I hear ya buddy!

If I had a couple more hours tonight...

Monday should allow me a solid six, so lets hope for the best.

KB


----------



## kustomkb

Got the ignition installed and made an mdf test bed;





























Please excuse the zip ties, washers under the acorn nuts and the factory carb,(Jason I will build it..) I just ran out of time.
I have to rewire and insulate the shop and gut the basement before winter.






















Oh did I mention,

*IT'S ALIVE!!!                     IT'S ALIVE!!!                     IT'S ALIVE!!!*


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULas6lgJdsk[/ame]

Thanks all for the tips and motivation and joining in for the ride, although it is far from over....


-Kevin.


----------



## 90LX_Notch

Kevin,

woohoo1 Awsome! Thm: Thm: Thm: Thm:  I have been following this build and couldn't wait to see it run. Great job! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:  Great build. th_wav

Bob


----------



## joe d

Kevin:

Way to go! :bow: :bow:

Now all you've got to do is build the bike to put it in!

Joe

(PS I really enjoyed the Engine Builder's Dance of Success)


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Oh that was great. That was so great. Thank you.
And thanks for sharing the 'glee'. It just puts a smile on one's face.


----------



## putputman

Kevin, you realy earned that dance. Great engine. I really love that sound.


----------



## cobra428

Kevin,
N.....I....C....E :bow: :bow: :bow:
Tony


----------



## cfellows

Kevin,

Great job! I'm envious of your work...

Chuck


----------



## Maryak

Kevin,

BBBBBBEAUTIFUL, - I mean the engine of course, although the smile and dance were pretty good too. :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Trust me when I say, "Only an American can convey so much with a simple YEAH 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





"

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## crankshafter

Kevin.
 woohoo1 woohoo1 woohoo1 th_wav
Nice, beautiful :bow: :bow:, and as you say: "Thanks all for the tips and motivation and joining in for the ride, although it is far from over...."    ..........we are waiting ;D

Crankshafter.


----------



## gmac

Kevin;
Loved the Lotto 649 dance - twice!! Great work and even better, thanks for taking the time to document it for us to learn from and enjoy.
Cheers
Garry


----------



## PhillyVa

Kevin....wwwwaaaayyyy toooo gooooooo Thm: woohoo1

Philly


----------



## bearcar1

Y-E-A-H ! is right! Could I interest you in signing up for some Fred Astaire classes? Rof} Wouldn't it be nice to design and build a bendex type electric starter for it. Push the button and hang on!! Well done.

BC1
Jim


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks alot guys!!

Definately the most rewarding buid to date.



> "Only an American can convey so much with a simple YEAH "



You meant North American, right Bob.  



> signing up for some Fred Astaire classes?



I had to look him up, next time I'll put on the top hat and have "putting on the ritz"
Playing in the back ground.  ;D

I think I'll keep the 649 dance as my signature innaugural run move. 
I couldn't really get into it when the throttle ran away like that. Once I've broken it in for awhile I'll creep up on the rev's. I was suprised at its eagerness to really get going.

When it took awhile to start all kinds of things were going through my mind; 
Are the cam lobes oriented backwards?, is this ignition compatible? Has the 1 year old lawn mower gas gone bad? ???

But then...



> build a bendex type electric starter for it.



Once I have it tuned well I'm sure the kick start will get it going, although I have been playing with the idea. I didn't know the term "bendix" so now we have a new can of worms to open. :



> Now all you've got to do is build the bike to put it in!



I've got my frame jig set up and tube templates laid out.
Here's a pic of what it might look like, and a 3-d pdf at the bottom of this post






I'll need to find some nice rubber, maybe electric scooter wheels?

Thanks again for all the compliments and encouragement!!

-Kevin.


View attachment HGLTAND FRAME REV A.PDF


----------



## Jasonb

Thats turned out well Kevin, probably start better with a decent carb  Actually one thing you could try with a cold engine is holding a finger part way over the air intake, this acts like a choke and gives a richer mixture for starting.

I've not made any more progress on My hoglet as I've finished the sheet metal on my traction engine now so am back machining, been doing the cylinder casting which has approx 100 assorted holes in it, 7 left to do, six of which have potential to snap a drill or break through where they are not meant to.

Jason


----------



## jthulin

Way to go Kevin Thm: It gives your subject line "Hoglet started" a whole new meaning ;D


----------



## Maryak

Kevin,

My apologies for lumping our US and Canadian friends together, as was pointed out to me in a PM like calling an Aussie a Kiwi. So, I'll rephrase my remark.

"Only a Canuck or a Yank can convey so much with a simple YEAH." Both colloquial terms are meant with the greatest respect. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Jeff!! Good call on the pun. certainly couldn't have intended that back then.

It took me second to get it. Dey tinks I'm slow eh.


Bob, no worries mate! Although the Kiwi analogy did pop into my head. ;D

Thanks again!! 

-Kevin.


----------



## roadrage17

Looks and runs amazing....... Well done :bow: :bow:  :bow: :bow: :bow: :big:

Best regards

RR17


----------



## MatiR

Kevin, that made my day! Got to get my build on track again - thanks for the inspiration. Which carb did you use? I have the one listed in the plans which looks similar to yours but not quite the same.

M.


----------



## GailInNM

Very nice Kevin. Well worth the year you spent on it.  :bow: Thm: :bow:


----------



## the engineer

awesome thought you must have stood on the plug lead when i saw the dance great work


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks alot RR17, Mati, Gail and the Engineer,

Man it really did take a year, the coomber and pulse mobile were mixed in there too I guess.

Mati, its a carb given to me by an RC shop/buddy of mine, I think it is O.S. Carburetor #10ER Rotary 12/15 






This weekend after running a little wire I might get some tubes bent. It'll be a nice change from straight machining.

Thanks again!

-Kevin.


----------



## deere_x475guy

Great Job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## RobWilson

excellent job,great work :bow: :bow: :bow:


----------



## Xlmyford

Hallo.
Absolut gorgeous.
Thanks for sharing.
Ralph


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks alot fellows!

I managed to get a fair bit of work done on the shop, so I may be able to get some more work done on the frame hopefully soon.

Cheers,

Kevin.


----------



## kustomkb

Cleaned 'er up alittle and tried to take some "fancy" photo's;










-Kevin.


----------



## PhillyVa

Kevin,

That's look'n real good...nice pictures too.

Philly


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Who are you trying to fool?
Those pics look like something gbritnell did. :big:

Very very nice. I mean, very very nice.


----------



## cfellows

Gosh that's a beautiful engine!

Chuck


----------



## Maryak

​


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks alot fellows, I hope to get going on the frame soon, 

Should I run it with a drop of 2-stroke oil in the gas, or white gas/oil mix or something, since it is not lubricated?

Or just give it a few drops now and then.

Thanks,

Kevin.


----------



## kustomkb

A friend came by with an electric mini bike, wondering if I could use the parts. I was pretty excited for the tires but when I stood them up;







These are about the right diameter;






But It looks like I am going to have to make my own molds and vulcanize some rubber!! :

So for now I should just focus on a nice frame and not get side tracked by fancy slicks.


----------



## RobWilson

that going to be cool Kevin Thm: ;D
Rob


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks!

Here we have an approximation of a scale bike;







Mocked up a back-bone;






















The balancing man on the back rail was my first metalwork project in grade 8 metalshop class 21 years ago.

        man, does time fly. 











...Looks like the partridge logo. 






a little better...

Have fun!


----------



## arnoldb

Nice going Kevin, looks a treat Thm:
Regards, Arnold


----------



## ariz

kustomkb, not only you have made a superb engine, but you are going to make a bike around it!
these is IMHO the greatest expression of our hobby: to bild a model that is something more than a model, a real engine that works and is useful for some purpose
can't explain better in english, but you have all my admiration :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:


----------



## Jasonb

Looking good, although the frame looks a bit too deep to me. I your last picture where you have mocked up the downtube I would be tempted to move this up about 1" and do away with the two square lengths of alloy and replace these with the frame tubes.

Jason


----------



## MatiR

Hi Kevin:
Looking great! Take a look at Jerry Kieffer's Harley build here - truly a masterpiece of scale modelling. Although yours is not a scale model, you might get some inspiration for evolving the design of your frame.

A picture of the frame is here:

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/images/KiefferHDframe.jpg

and the overall story here:

http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Kieffer4.htm

Best regards, Mati


----------



## hedgehog

great job, great build. and thanks for all the photos along the way. Just ordered the two back issues , i just have to start on this asap.

 :bow: :bow: :bow:


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks very much for all the kind words.

Keiffers model is truly amazing. Thanks for the link.

Im not sure what kind of power comes from this engine. Maybe a dyno could be next...

Good eye Jason, that wire should have sat on top of the 123 block. Instead of 2 square lengths of alloy I made a rectangular frame which I think adds alot of ridgidity to the engine. And like Mati said its not a scale model but an interpretation and the frame is meant to display the engine.

Here I have marked the downtube for rough cutting;






And then set the vise in a toolpost to a half inch centre line;






Then set the tube inline;






And swing it to the angle;






And then "fish mouth" it with a 3/4 inch endmill and 50 thou bites;









And it fits nicely;






A similar approach was used for the downtubes, Just a little more grinding and fidling;






Here you can see where I have had to shim the kick start assembly to clear the bottom tubes;

















The head tube will also be shortened.

Not a lot of progress lately. I've been busy with home repairs and my latest obsession, building a 1/4 scale RC buggy like this fellow;

http://www.fieroaddiction.com/buggy.html

And if anybody knows how to turn a wiper motor into a servo like he did I am all ears.

Thanks,

Kevin.


----------



## kustomkb

Got a little time in on the frame;




























Happy halloween;







A few smacks with the teardrop and a little planishing in the wheel and we have the start of a tank;












The frame ended up a little stretched out in the rear but I guess that will leave lots of room for a big oil bag which will house the electrics.


----------



## Deanofid

Very cool, Kevin. The engine was so neat, and here you are, still tricking things out. Looking very good. I like your little English wheel, too!

Dean


----------



## ariz

and where are you now Kevin? did you make any progress?

always a great work to see (your) :bow:


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks guys,

 I am starting to wonder If I am just taking away from the beauty of the engine and cluttering things up. I guess it does need fuel and a place to store the batteries etc.


----------



## eskimobob

Wow how did I miss this one 
 :bow: :bow:


----------



## Deanofid

kustomkb  said:
			
		

> Thanks guys,
> 
> I am starting to wonder If I am just taking away from the beauty of the engine and cluttering things up. I guess it does need fuel and a place to store the batteries etc.



I think it will look great, Kevin. A small running engine is pretty impressive, for sure. Especially this one. 
A small _running_ motorcycle is pretty durn impressive too!
You do nice work, that's for sure.

Dean


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Dean, Martin.

I'll see it through, but it'll take awhile. I have a baby on the way so life's getting a bit busier!

Maybe he can ride it in a few years. ;D


----------



## eskimobob

kustomkb  said:
			
		

> I'll see it through, but it'll take awhile. I have a baby on the way so life's getting a bit busier!



Get as much done as you possibly can before baby arrives! - I used to think I didn't have much spare time but in the two years since our little one arrived, I have realised that I used to waste more time than I have available now - wouldn't change it for the world though 8)


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks for the tip. not long now...

Got a little more done on the tank;































And I made a cover for it where it sits "shelved" between sessions;


----------



## deere_x475guy

Kevin your a true craftsman. Just a fantastic job and build article.


----------



## cfellows

Very nice work. Jesse James has nothing on you! Do you have an itty bitty English Wheel for that tank work? :big:

Chuck


----------



## rake60

Beautiful sheet metal work Kevin!

To follow up on Chuck's question, How did you do that?

Rick


----------



## deere_x475guy

rake60  said:
			
		

> Beautiful sheet metal work Kevin!
> 
> To follow up on Chuck's question, How did you do that?
> 
> Rick



I think post 139 picture 6 and 7 will show what he used. That sure looks like and english wheel to me..


----------



## ksouers

Holy Cats, Kevin 

I knew you had finished the motor. I didn't know you were building an entire bike around it, too!

Wow! I gotta keep a closer eye on you 

Looking real good!


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks very much guys!!

Not alot of progress lately. Been pretty busy with the house..

Here is a quick wheeling vid. --Warning-- You may want your 8 minutes back... 

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9crRmlDcK8[/ame]


----------



## rake60

I'm not regretting losing that 8 minutes!

Is that English Wheel your own design?

Rick


----------



## kustomkb

I got the idea here;

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tech/articles/12ewheel.html

Here is my last minichopper I used it for;









http://picasaweb.google.com/kustomkb/Blackthunder#

Have fun!


----------



## GailInNM

8 minutes for you. More like 8 days for us mortals. Thanks Kevin. :bow: :bow:
Gail in NM


----------



## ariz

thank you kustomkb
these 8 minutes were worth spent


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks, I am glad you guys enjoyed it. Its nice sometimes to work on a part which has minimal tolerances required.

Now I need some serious practice with the TIG so I can stitch it together. 

I also want to design a flush mount cap...


----------



## cobra428

kustomkb,
Very Nice. "American Chopper" in miniature!

Tony


----------



## putputman

Kevin, I really enjoyed those 16 minutes. That is just plain raw talent to be able to form some with just a hammer and English wheel. Did you learn that from trial & error or did you have a mentor? 
It looks like you made the English wheel. Could you tell us more about that, maybe in another thread.


----------



## Deanofid

Eight minutes well spent, for me, Kevin. Thanks much for the video!

Dean


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks fellows.

Arv, I did make the wheel as per plans linked in post #155. No mentor, just grabbed some metal and started bashing.

I made the hammers from nylon and I pulled the lower bearing out of a 737 landing gear.

The nylon hammers are for trial and the mace in post 147 is for the error. ;D


----------



## kustomkb

I made a drill jig for putting a couple holes through the frame to mount the foot pegs and secure the engine frame;







Then clamped it up and drilled through;






Then I flipped it to the other side and eyeballed it up with a straight edge;






Then pulled the base frame out and whadaya know, they lined up!






Then I tapped it 8-32;









With the lathe I scalloped some bosses;






And then clamped them in position for welding;














-Have a good weekend!


----------



## kustomkb

I got some "forward controls" made;









Then I started on a motor mount by roughing it out with a end mill then finishing the angles with a ballnose and small stepovers;






Then a nest was made to machine the flipside;









































And here it is next to its future home. It will help tie the motor to the frame as well as give me somewhere to mount the throttle cable;


----------



## stevehuckss396

th_confused0052 Wow!!


----------



## putputman

Daaaang Steve, that is what I was going to say.

There just isn't enough nice words available to describe this build.


----------



## Maryak

Kevin,

Awesome build. :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Kevin, Excellent work. That's going to be one impressive build when you're through with it. I really enjoy looking at your fixture work.
George


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks very much gents!!



> That's going to be one impressive build when you're through with it.



Slow and steady. Life's pretty busy these days...

I still can't find a good looking tire. I may have to machine one from foam rubber.

I think 7 inch diameter would be perfect. 

Do you think I could make a mold to heat, pressurize and reshape an existing tire??

I want to get started on some rims but need tire dimensions first...

Thanks again!


----------



## PhillyVa

Kevin

Do you think I could make a mold to heat, pressurize and reshape an existing tire??
[/quote]

Now that's an idea...I have a tiger tourch that you can use if you need the heat.

Good job on the frame by the way.

Regards

Philly


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Philly.

I'll let you know what I figure out...


----------



## kustomkb

So I was able to get a seat made, I added a cross brace to hinge onto and cut out a piece of packing foam I had on hand,
not the foam i would, use but had it, and it turned out pretty lumpy :-[,


Its hinged over the "oilbag" which will hold the electronics;



























And then I mocked up a drag bar which I am still unsure of;
















Then I made the throttle controls/ hand grips, the rubber is shrink tube;





























And here is a days worth of poor design/foolishness/rushing/ this is an easy part/ 2-56 is as small as I go, yet still looks too big/ this slitting saw should be fine;








And all the while I was able to produce this little beauty;
















His name is Jonah.

Lucky for him he has his Mom's nose ;D


And built new front stairs/ deck siding on our 60 year old house.


Not watching TV, bar a few Olympic hockey, games sure helps too.


Have fun!


----------



## Maryak

Congratulations Dad :bow: :bow: :bow:

The bike's OK too. :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Deanofid

That's some fine work there, Dad! And, the scooter is coming along nicely.

Dean


----------



## GailInNM

Congratulations, Kevin.
Nice work on all fronts.
Gail in NM


----------



## ariz

congrats for Jonah, a wonderful baby :-* :-* :-*

and chapeau :bow: for the work on the bike too


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Kevin, congratulations to you and your wife on the birth of your son. Hopefully over the years he will pick up your building talent. 
The bike is coming along great and your craftsmanship is first rate.
George


----------



## PhillyVa

Kevin...like my wife says...He's so cute ;D

Regards

Philly


----------



## Paulsv

For tires, perhaps scooter tires? Take a look at this little scooter available at WalMart- they look about the right size. 


http://www.walmart.com/ip/Razor-Ele...0000003260420&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=10746396

They might be too big, but Razor makes lots of different size scooters. You might search "razor scooter tires" or "razor scooter parts"

If you search "scooter tires" you find a lot of bigger ones for those gas powered scooters, but some of them appear to be as small as 8 inches, such as these:

http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/82ripnmoti.html


----------



## kendo

Hi Kevin
       congratulations on the birth of your son Jonah, Bet he makes you 
       feel soooo proud.

       Just Found this site for tyres and wheels, hope its of some help

http://www.funbikes.co.uk/c-mini_moto_wheels__tyres-87.aspx

                    Ken


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Congratulations Kevin!
Great looking son.
Better get that bike done pretty soon...your play time is going to change.


----------



## rake60

Great looking results on *BOTH* projects Kevin.

Congratulations all around! Thm:

Rick


----------



## MatiR

kustomkb  said:
			
		

> And all the while I was able to produce this little beauty;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> His name is Jonah.



Congratulations! Where did you get the drawings, or did you did you use CAD? ;D

All the best, Mati


----------



## joe d

Kevin:

Change that frame to a trike, and five years from now Jonah can be riding to kindergarten in STYLE!

Congratulations, Dad!

Joe


----------



## kustomkb

Thank you very much for the congratulations/comments, we are very proud and happy.

Thanks for the links, those razor tires look pretty good.


Ken I've been meaning to ask, is that your skeleton bike? I've seen it before, very cool and well made!




> Better get that bike done pretty soon...your play time is going to change.




I hear ya Zee. Also want to get it done so I can get a cool picture of him on it for our Christmas card.




> Where did you get the drawings, or did you did you use CAD?




He started as a rough sketch but luckily my wife was able to to some pretty fine editing for us.




> Hopefully over the years he will pick up your building talent.




Thanks George, I hope so too, my Dad is a master wood turner, pattern maker by trade, I went down the metal road and together we

 can make some cool stuff. So I hope it can continue.




> Change that frame to a trike, and five years from now Jonah can be riding to kindergarten in STYLE!




I hope he is keen on it! I all ready have a nice collection of go-kart /dirt bike and scooters for him. But whatever he chooses is cool.


Here is a trike I built a while back;











Thanks again for all the kind comments, it means a lot to me.


I just have to show off a couple more;










Have fun!


----------



## ksouers

Kevin,

Congratulations on the son!

Now we know who the bike was built for.

You're also gonna have to teach him how to dance ;D


----------



## hobby

Congratulations on your new son.

I like your workmanship on the small model bike,
I'm going to start at the beginning of this thread and brows thru the entire thread, looks like a lot of interesting things to learn here.

Keep up the good work...


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Kev, Hobby.

Kevin,

The way he's wiggling around I'm sure he'll be a natural 

I can't remember if I thanked you for fixing my thread, so thanks, that must have been a lot of work!


----------



## kendo

Hi Kevin
      Check your email, sent you some pics of the skeleton bike
      Hope you like them.
            Best Regards Ken


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Ken, very cool.

I wanted the bung to sit flush with the tank so I made a simple dimpling tool;






Then made up the cap and 2 bungs, 1 for practice;






And here one sits in the practice piece;






Then I welded and dressed it up, the stock is .036" thick.









I was happy to not find any voids while sanding down the bead.

But here is the ugly truth on the back side, you can see the heat was a little excessive but did not burn through.






The TIG machine has a pulse option which I'll play with which helps keep the heat from building up as I have heard.


Now maybe I can pull my thumb out, grow a pair and weld it up for real. ;D


Have fun!


----------



## Deanofid

Burn baby, burn! I think it's probably stuck okay, Kevin. Looking good on the finished side.

Years ago, when I went to get my welding cert, the examiner would give you a couple of things to weld up over your head, and vertically. I'd been a welder for some time already, so did 'em up good and hot on the root passes, then finished filling in the inch wide and deep "V' in the coupon piece.
When he cut them apart he said something about "atomic penetration".

Looks like that's what you got here, Kev. Atomic penetration. 
Fits right in with the welder's mantra: More rod, more heat, more money.
: )

Dean


----------



## kustomkb

Oh yeah, its on there. "Atomic Penetration" for sure. I think we sent it back to the crucible on that one.

I'm going to try a smaller electrode and practice practice practice.

Any tips on how to set-up a Dynasty 200DX for .036 5052 AL?
Got no 50/50 just Argon and 2% Thoriated.

Thanks


----------



## Deanofid

Kevin, been some time since I did any tig. I don't know that machine, either, but here are a few things that should get you going;

Pure argon is good. Run it at about 15 cfh. 
Your work piece is fairly thin, and I think you will do okay with it using AC, freq constant, (always on), and try about 40-60 amps at first. If you're doing a fillet, you may need a little more heat than that. Running AC on this should be best.

You need a pure tungsten electrode, (unless you are going to run it DCEP). I would think about .040" or maybe 1/16". You need to ball the end of it for AC. It should do it by itself when you start it, just leave the end of the electrode flat and start an arc on a piece of scrap al, (again using AC). Let me know if you don't know what I'm talking about.

I assume you know something about this, but: Clean your joint with a brand new stainless brush. Make sure the gas to the torch is purged before you start. Run the electrode and filler so they make about a 90 deg angle to each other. Something this thin, push it or pull it, it probably won't matter. What ever is easier for you.

Dean


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks for the tips Dean.

 I think I have some 1/16 electrodes and somebody told me about an amp per thou' which jives with your suggestion. I'll try balling the end too.

I'll put all this to practice and see how we do...

Cheers.


----------



## Deanofid

The amp a thou thing might work as a very basic guide, Kevin. The thing is, different metals take widely different temps. Aluminum takes more than steels because it wicks heat so fast.

The ball you're looking for is a hemisphere shaped thing on the end of the electrode. Should be called half-a-ball, but that's not very handy. 
A new electrode will have a nice flat end. Start with that to make your ball. Watch the 'trode in the arc when you first kick on the current, and keep it pointed straight down. It will start to shine and then get round. Only takes a few seconds. If you go above the current you needed to make the ball when welding up your piece, the ball will get a little bigger. If it gets more than about 50% larger than the base dia of the 'trode, it will fall off. You know you've reached the limit of amperage for that sized electrode.

Thoriated tung usually won't make a proper ball. The ball helps the arc on al. Quite a bit.

Dean


----------



## justlesh

Use the 2% thoriated tungsten sharpened to a point with about a .030 dia. flat on the end, you will have much greater control of the arc. At 15cfh I wouldn't use a cup smaller than a 7 due to turbulance drawing contamination into the welding area, I might even suggest going down to 12-13 cfh. 40-50 amps max to start the puddle shoud do just fine on that thin of material. I wont even keep pure tungsten around any more, no need.
Hope this helps a little, I haven't had the chance to use a dynasty, still using an old syncrowave.


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks again for the tips guys,

I read that you don't really need the ball on the newer inverter machines and that Lanthanated would be just as good as thoriated if you don't want a little radioactive dust in your shop.

I never thought of the turbulence drawing contamination in, I guess more isn't always better.

Also found a discussion here; http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-32993.html

The machine I am using has alot of features, so once I get a good starting point nailed down I hope to get some serious practice in.

 I really want to get good at this but like everything, practice, practice...

Thanks.


----------



## kustomkb

A little progress;



















I couldn't get the welds as nice as I wanted so I ended up just globbing it on so I would have material to grind back.

Have fun.


----------



## metalmad

just after I started reading this thread my jaw popped open,now i may be disfigured for life lol
fantastic


----------



## hobby

I looked over your thread from start to the point your at right now,
I just kept on saying as I was skimming through your build,

"WOW, that is some REALLY NICE work..."

I just kept on repeating that as I was taking the tour.

Excellent craftsmanship...


----------



## T70MkIII

OCC eat your heart out! Very nice work.


----------



## kustomkb

Wow, thanks a lot fellows, much appretiated.

Hopefully the next installment won't take as long...


----------



## doc1955

That is some very impressive can't wait to see it with the engine in it.
Nice work :bow: :bow:


----------



## kustomkb

> can't wait to see it with the engine in it.



Thanks Doc, Me too.

Hope to get a little work done on the tank this afternoon.


----------



## Fire-Drop_Technologies

Sweet project!
Say all you gear heads Curantly liking this bike?
I draft plas and patternsEver though about building 
A modern preforming steam bike? 
Well I have. 
And have some rather ruff but usable plans for it,
As well as a sick new turbine pattern.
If any one get's bored?
I will provide them for no cost to ay aptly capable builder.
I may be reached at [email protected]
Feel free to inquire! 
PS. 
I still have a spare block for the steam bike build,
And will trade it to any party wiling to machine a copy
of the cylinder and head to re-fit it as an engine.
I have wood working gear and most of the gear to builda foundry
But still have yet to purchase a metal lathe.


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks fire drop. There is an uploads section if you would like to share your plans. And a welcome section where you can show us some of your stuff.

I've been thinking about a centrifugal clutch to drive the rear wheel. I want to build it into the wheel so I don't have an unsightly protuberance on the side of the engine. Usually the clutch is on the drive shaft and is geared down to the final dive providing plenty of torque. If I gear it to look "normal" (small sprocket on the engine and large on the rear wheel) I'm afraid there won't be enough force to really get a grab on the clutch drum. But I guess if all I want to do is allow the engine to idle without the wheel turning and engage when the rev's come up, do you guys think this will work with a relatively weak spring? Got any ideas for the shoe material? I'm also not even sure what RPM's this thing puts out.

Thanks, in advance, for your input.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWZPB-Nabyc[/ame]


----------



## gbritnell

Hi Kevin,
I wouldn't say that it won't work on the wheel hub, having never tried anything like that but even with a very light spring I don't think you will get the wheel rpm up fast enough to make the clutch grab very well. Here's one thing to consider. You say you don't want a big unsightly clutch hanging off of the engine but as with most motorcycle engines they have primary case on the side of the engine anyway. Why not build a simple primary cover and hide the centrifugal clutch underneath it? Even better, if it's only going to be for demonstration purposes you could build a simple single plate clutch operated by a cable from the handlebars. 
gbritnell


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks George, I've been considering the plate clutch and looking at all the design suggestions over on "Jerry's Donkey" but am still not sure how to go about it.

The primary cover would be cool too, but I'm not sure how small a clutch I can build and still drive a #25 chain. Maybe I could squeeze a jack-shaft in between to gear it up... RC clutch with heavier shoes?

Do printers use a belt drive with timing gears?

My head is starting to hurt...


----------



## Grunwalla

Absolutely amazing how you turned something so simple into some that beautiful


----------



## kustomkb

Thank you Grunwalla.

I am honored by your first post. :bow:


----------



## kustomkb

So I went up to Casterland to see what they had. (brought the model too, hoping a gear head might be there, keen to help me out, and to eye ball the wheel size)
 I need 7 inch tires. There was a solid 9 inch I thought I could machine down, but for 50 bucks I'll keep looking. The link Paulsv supplied is promising and I happened past a walmart so I went in for the first time and there was a sweet wheel on the scooter he referenced but I had to buy the whole thing. Kendo's link looks promising too.

Any way... casterland had a $4 wheel that I thought I could use for the front. So I knocked out the flange bearings and made a mandrel to suit, along with a thrust sleeve to lock it in;








Then set it up in the lathe;








The results turned out okay, and I blame KCmillin for making it look so easy, but lets just say it was a good thing I was wearing a full face respirator and coverall's, because that vacuum set-up might have caught %10;








Oh well, that lathe needed a proper cleaning/oiling any way. So while the shop was de-gassing I tried to set-up a couple of Machinist [email protected]#n shots;
















As always, have fun!


----------



## T70MkIII

A beautiful ride, Kevin - good [email protected]#n. Good luck with the wheels, and cleaning the lathe!


----------



## SAM in LA

Kevin,

Awesome job.

You can give Paul Jr of OCC a run for the money.

SAM


----------



## kcmillin

Kevin, this is shaping up to be one heck of a beautiful motorbike.

I don't remember using the lathe for my tires, I take no responsibility for the mess. :big: :big:

It turned out a lot better than mine, thats for sure. 

What did you use to cut the tire down? I see no tool bit in the lathe. Sandpaper?

Kel


----------



## Paulsv

Kevin- If you haven't checked it out yet, Razor has a website where they sell parts for their scooters. 

http://shop.razor.com/pages.php?pageid=1

You can click on the picture of the ride on scooters, and they do sell the wheels for each of them. Hard to tell the size, though, without going and looking at the scooters.


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks a lot Richard, Sam, Kel and Paulsv!!

Kel, I think I remember you sanded the treads off of your wheels, I used an angle grinder with a segmented flap wheel.

Once I realized how much mess I was making it was too late to turn back.

Thanks again for the link Paulsv, it looks like those are just under 8 inches and I probably can't remove a half inch per side.

This is for a monster RC truck and measures 6.9" we'll see how it goes...






Thanks again!


----------



## T70MkIII

KustomKB  said:
			
		

> This is for a monster RC truck and measures 6.9" we'll see how it goes...



Kevin, do you have the name of or a link to the shop that sells that monster RC truck tyre? Ican't quite make out the logo in the photo, and something around that size may be perfect for a little thing I'm contemplating.


----------



## hobby

Hi,

back on page 10, wow, you do some tremendous pipe bending, cutting and fitting, the engine is extremely GREAT, but SO is the frame and the whole bike, you do excellent work, not to mention, the very, and I mean *very * good way, you document this thread with pictures, the picture sequence of your time in the shop, from one part to another, makes this the excellent learning thread that it is.

It's like watching a how to video, with the animations the actual videos, and the still pictures, and captions, all combined together to make one great learning thread.

Thanks for taking the time, I mean effort, (in a good sense) for capturing that for us all to enjoy and learn.

I for one when taking pictures of a procedure, become lazy after awhile, or forget to take a pic. of something,
but when it's a sequence of procedures I already documented, in the back of my mind, I feel like I have freedom to get down to the real business of my build, without the interference of stopping to take pictures....

That's why I highly commend you on your patience to take the amount of pics, you do.

Keep up the GREAT work...


----------



## kustomkb

Hi Richard, here is the link to the tire;

http://prolineracing.com/tires/road-rage-3.8-40-series-street-tires/

and your local distributor;

PERTH R/C MODELS & HOBBIES
08 9328 8986
198 STIRILING ST.
PERTH WA 6000

(P.S. right click on any picture to view properties/image location, to find the source)

Hobby, thank you very much for the compliments. I enjoy documenting the process and have fun, and receive encouragement, from sharing the results. I guess its quite a long thread but it has been over 2 1/2 years...
I've got a few new projects in mind but home renovations keep getting in the way. I'd like to get this sucker wrapped up so I can move on and pester you guys with something different. 

Thanks!


----------



## HS93

KustomKB  said:
			
		

> Hi Richard, here is the link to the tire;
> 
> http://prolineracing.com/tires/road-rage-3.8-40-series-street-tires/
> 
> and your local distributor;
> 
> PERTH R/C MODELS & HOBBIES
> 08 9328 8986
> 198 STIRILING ST.
> PERTH WA 6000
> 
> (P.S. right click on any picture to view properties/image location, to find the source)
> 
> Hobby, thank you very much for the compliments. I enjoy documenting the process and have fun, and receive encouragement, from sharing the results. I guess its quite a long thread but it has been over 2 1/2 years...
> I've got a few new projects in mind but home renovations keep getting in the way. I'd like to get this sucker wrapped up so I can move on and pester you guys with something different.
> 
> Thanks!


that was the best model shop I saw in AUS on my visit, he had the most enormous brushless motors I have ever seen
sorry for going off topic it's a fantastic build

Peter


----------



## T70MkIII

Thanks very much for that info, Kevin - I hadn't even heard of Perth R/C Models and Hobbies, but it is quite close to where I work. I'll be checking it out directly...

Thanks for the endorsement, Peter.


----------



## kustomkb

Cheers fellows, That is a monster, Pete.

I set about making a front wheel by preping the fixture plate with a couple of locating pins;






Then turned the outer profile on the wheel blank and clamped it down;






After a 3/4 insert roughing tool and a 1/2" endmill;







then a rough pass with a 3/8 ball nose;







And another finish pass and some chamfers;







Then flipped it over and up against the dowel;








After repeating the operations and some polishing we ended up with this guy;








The machining went well but I can't stop looking at the flower created by the negative image. That won't do. So maybe we'll try something like this;









Cheers!


----------



## zeeprogrammer

That is awesome looking! Nice!


----------



## SAM in LA

Dang, that sure is one awesome looking wheel. I wish that I could make flywheels like that.

SAM


----------



## kcmillin

Amazing Kevin, simply amazing.
Kel


----------



## kustomkb

Thank you very much Zee, Sam and Kel. I had fun making them and I am lucky to have access to the CNC mill. One day I hope to get my own.

I did a "dry" set-up on the press, because I thought I was going to have a terrible time getting the tire on and that this would be a one shot deal;






Then I put the tire in almost boiling water for 15 min;







Then the tire easily went on by hand, what a relief. I seriously thought I may have to cut the tire and re-glue it. Now I can easily remove the tire if any mods need to be done or to change rims :











I also got my R/C shop to order in those rear tires but they are 5.5" not the advertised 6.9" ???

Until next time, Thanks for looking.


----------



## PhillyVa

Kevin,

That looks just awwwwsome :bow: :bow: :bow:

Regards

Philly


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Philly!


----------



## kustomkb

So just a bit of progress;

I was a little concerned about drilling overlapping holes by hand but the step drill with supporting sacrificial wood worked okay;

















And the ignition set-up tucked into the "oil-bag" Nicely;












I also was able to make a stand for the rear end;











Thanks, and have fun!


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Beautiful!
Even the stand is a work of art.


----------



## Troutsqueezer

You're really going all the way with this George. Very nice. Is the wife OK with this on the mantle?


----------



## joe d

Kevin

Looking fine! I like the little detailing on the hand grips and foot pegs.

Keep it coming :bow: :bow:

Joe


----------



## cfellows

Kinda makes building the engine look like a walk in the park, huh?


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Dennis, it's actually Kevin, but I'll take that as a compliment. She has got the mantle pretty full but I found a couple of studs on the living room wall which should hold it up nicely. ;D 

Thanks Carl I guess I might as well machine the shelf brackets too.

Thanks Joe, The black is heat shrink.

Thanks Chuck, it just keeps growing and growing...


----------



## SAM in LA

Kevin,

What you have accomplished is mind boggling to me.

Perhaps you can design an android to ride it. :big:

Continually amazed,

SAM


----------



## putputman

Beautiful job on the entire project. Seams there is no end to your skills.

One of these days I hope to see that bike with your little son setting on it.


----------



## kustomkb

Thank you for the kind words,



> Perhaps you can design an android to ride it. big laugh



Sam, I have always admired this guys work;






Thanks Arv, this has been a fun project with everything from machining to upholstery.

I sat the little guy on there a couple of times over the last few weeks but he still can't quite reach the foot pegs. At my pace he'll have his drivers license before I'm finished with this thing.

Mom dressed him up for a photo shoot this afternoon;










Thanks for the encouragement!


----------



## Speedy

your fab work is amazing! 
last pictures will be something the little one will enjoy when older.
I guess you have no arguement when he grows up wanting a bike :big:


----------



## winklmj

"Dang! You got shocks, pegs... lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps? "

 :big:


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Michael!



> "Dang! You got shocks, pegs... lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps? "



"Not yet but I'm going to try to blast it off the neighbors curb if Pedro will let me. This afternoon Dad's going to teach me how to do some gnarly burnouts"

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHhzKP7cZ6c[/ame]


----------



## SAM in LA

Kevin,

Looks like fun.

What a great build.

Have you been to the local biker bar yet?

SAM


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Sam, bikers? those guys are trouble! The build pics for that one are here;

http://picasaweb.google.com/kustomkb/Blackthunder#

I'm going to try for a standard style of centrifugal clutch. I'm no physics expert so 
I guess I'll have to experiment with springs and shoe weights. Any tips?

Would phenolic be any good for the traction liners?

Here is what I've drawn up;

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3aqyvkOUB0[/ame]

And what it might look like on the bike;







Thanks in advance for the advice.


----------



## kustomkb

This was posted on my you tube page. I was wondering if one of our Russian brothers could help me out.

I ran it through three on line translators and am still unsure of the question. Is it "how long will the engine last?"

Thanks.



> &#1087;&#1086;&#1082;&#1072; &#1079;&#1072;&#1074;&#1077;&#1076;&#1077;&#1096;&#1100; &#1074;&#1077;&#1089;&#1100; &#1088;&#1077;&#1089;&#1091;&#1088;&#1089; &#1076;&#1074;&#1080;&#1075;&#1072;&#1090;&#1077;&#1083;&#1103; &#1082;&#1086;&#1085;&#1095;&#1080;&#1090;&#1089;&#1103;


----------



## PhillyVa

Kevin,

Isn't it a little hard to do a happy dance soooo loooow to the ground? :big:

Philly


----------



## Maryak

KustomKB  said:
			
		

> This was posted on my you tube page. I was wondering if one of our Russian brothers could help me out.
> 
> I ran it through three on line translators and am still unsure of the question. Is it "how long will the engine last?"
> 
> Thanks.



Galina is asleep right now but I think it's "From now, how long before all the motor is finished." I will speak to the oracle and if it's different I will advise.

Taking each word....For the present.....Establishment.....All..... Resource.....Motor...........to finish.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb

Hey Phil,

 I'm sure I'll work something out. Probably involve some stretching before hand. ;D

Thanks Bob! Much appreciated. Will respond accordingly.


----------



## Maryak

Kevin,

The oracle has woken up and advises that it is a smart ass comment to the effect that you will have exhausted all your resources just getting it started.


Galina suggests the following response:

&#1047;&#1072;&#1074;&#1080;&#1089;&#1090;&#1100; - &#1076;&#1074;&#1080;&#1075;&#1072;&#1090;&#1077;&#1083;&#1100; &#1087;&#1088;&#1086;&#1075;&#1088;&#1077;&#1089;&#1089;&#1072;. &#1058;&#1074;&#1086;&#1081; &#1088;&#1077;&#1089;&#1091;&#1088;&#1089; &#1073;&#1077;&#1079; &#1082;&#1086;&#1085;&#1094;&#1072;.

Envy - is an engine of progress. Your resources are without finish. 

&#1073;&#1077;&#1079; &#1082;&#1086;&#1085;&#1094;&#1072; has a double meaning i.e without finish or in slang without penis.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## kustomkb

Oh thank ye wise Oracle!

I don't usually engage the wise crackers, but he should know that I have a worldwide team of advisers and consultants. And that it's not that easy to get one by us.

Obviously I could have edited the video down, but that was all part of the battle on its maiden voyage.

My next video won't be so easy to poke a jab at... in 2015


----------



## kustomkb

Ha, Ha!! Oh man I laughed out loud at that one!

Consider it copied and pasted.

Thanks again Galina and Bob!


----------



## kustomkb

I downloaded a sprocket model from SDP-SI and machined it from aluminum to try out a 6:1 gear ratio. If I'm happy with it, I'll probably make another from stainless. I didn't have my camera with me but this is what I ended up with;


----------



## kustomkb

Well that ain't gonna work. You see, there's your problem. Another case of building something without thinking it through.

This thing is just getting more and more cluttered as I bodge it along. I don't want to build a new frame and it's starting to look like a dragster. I stretched it out to make room for the ignition, in the oil bag. I like the kick start and had considered an electric start with a planetary drive from a cordless drill... I'm going to need a series of jack shafts, chain tensioners and idler sprockets to make a "standard" centrifugal clutch work. That just won't look pretty. I'm trying to keep it simple, and all I want is for the rear wheel to spin at RPM and stop at idle. 

I think I might try the integral clutch hub design again. I've got so many projects I want to get on to, but I just can't put this sucker to bed... Maybe I'll distract myself by finishing the tank and making a new seat and fender.


----------



## kustomkb

Here are the components for the clutch. I'm thinking of bonding some Tyvar or hardwood shoes to the clutch weights. With the spring that is on there now it engages at 1400 RPM.






























Here is a picture that I took of my Son on the bike that my brother fancied up;






He and our old home have kept us really busy so shop time is at a premium. Please excuse the lack of progress pics.

All the best!


----------



## crankshafter

HO HO HO.
Kevin. been some time. I have to say that's a nice clutch you come up with, nice finish and nice crisp pic.
and the little biker, oh I like that, remember me of my son on his first ride on his mini-chopper.
best
CS.


----------



## PhillyVa

Wow that looks awwwwsome Kevin.

Regards
Philly


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks a lot CS, Like speedy said;


> I guess you have no argument when he grows up wanting a bike



I'm sure that will ring true. I remember being on the back of my Dad's bike saying "can this thing do wheelies?"... It did.

Thanks Phil!


----------



## richie garland

BobWarfield  said:
			
		

> Well that was easy. You can subscribe and purchase back issues online.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> BW


----------



## kustomkb

I just got the old post warning, sad...

I just found an old video on my computer of some g-code generated for the machining of the front wheel.

Yes, the camera man has since been fired.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHcK7fVw1eY[/ame]


----------



## kustomkb

Well after building the Mrs. some kitchen cabinets, gutting the basement and manually excavating and waterproofing the foundation wall, I figured I deserved a little hobby time.

My TIG welding seems so slow to improve so I said to heck with it and made a start on the tank.

First horrific pass with the torch and a quick rub up against the disk sander;

















After sanding some more, exposing many pin holes cracks, I made another pass with the torch and filler.
Then I gave it some die-grinder action with the abrasive discs;

















I figured I would weld the sides before dimpling the filler hole to add a little strength to avoid warp-age.
I formed the recess for the bung with the tooling in an arbor press;






We'll see how the rest goes, if I am not happy there is always paint and Bondo...
I don't expect this tank to be air-tight so I have some aircraft fuel tank sealer I think I can cut with MEK to slosh around the inside.


----------



## dgjessing

A little bondo will fix that right up


----------



## Jasonb

If you want to keep the bare metal look try filling with soft plumbers solder, bit like the lead that was used before bondo was invented.

J


----------



## kustomkb

Hey Jason, that's funny, I just picked up a bunch of lead and paddles at a garage sale a couple of weeks ago. I thought I would never use it but I'm a sucker for old tools. Maybe I'll give it a try. Would it stick to aluminum?

I also have a bunch of that aluminum "brazing" rod...


----------



## Jasonb

Ah, thought it was steel in which case it won't stick to Ali.

fibreglassing resin and Aluminium powder will make a good silver coloured filler, don't know of a source for the powder where you are but its used for cold casting look at sculptors suppliers. This bowl was filled with it.

Failing that paint it Yellow 

J


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks for the idea's Jason.

I saw that bowl before when I was browsing your photo's. Very nice. My Dad is an excellent wood turner. His latest thing is turning extremely fragile objects encased in wax and then melting the wax away.

I made a start on the tank bottom by covering it in paper and rubbing graphite along the edges to make a template;













Then transfer the template to the stock;







Finally, cut the pieces out and try to beat them into submission;







Have fun in the shop!


----------



## kustomkb

Here the tunnel has been stitched together and will only need a slight bit of persuasion to fit the tank bottom.

Not the prettiest thing but I will refine it a little more when everything is together.


----------



## kustomkb

Here is the tank, pretty much finished;



















The tank was made from .025" 5052. In hindsight a thicker gauge of material would have been easier to weld and left more meat for blending out the high spots.

I buffed it up, but might flatten it back out with the scotchbrite.


----------



## kustomkb

I made a start on the rear wheel by roughing out the OD, leaving meat in the corner for a radius;







And finished;







It was then flipped around and bore straight for one side and tapered on the other;







The inner rim was bored for a ball bearing and fancied up;

















I wasn't too happy with the chunky flange but the inspector was okay with it;


----------



## gmac

Kevin;
I think you just published your new avatar (the inspector) . Great work.
Cheers
Garry


----------



## crankshafter

Hi Kevin.
 th_confused0052 th_wav
Your on the track again Kevin. Beautiful work on that tank and rims. And when are the inspector going to have the first run :big: :big:
 Best reg.
CS.


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Garry, good call!

Thanks CS, I've got to finish this project before August when are second child is due, or I will have to change the title of this thread from "Hoglet" to "Kevin's life story" ;D

I tweaked the wheels a bit and pressed the bearings in. Also started a simple air cleaner;


----------



## kustomkb

Here is the rest of the air cleaner. It is 1 1/2 inch diameter;











Do you guys think the choke will be effective?


----------



## steamer

Looks great!

and yes I think it will work!

Dave


----------



## kustomkb

Thanks Dave!

Got to make a new seat, maybe a rear fender, tweak the engine, run a new throttle cable and then maybe she'll be done...


----------



## compspecial

Hello Kevin, your choke is identical to the one used on "Villiers" engines for many years, worked fine!
                         Stew.


----------



## Maxine

I just read through this whole build thread.  What a GREAT build!  Very, very nice craftsmanship.  Thanks for posting all along the way.  I really enjoyed reading through it.  You have motivated me to take on the Hoglet as my next build.


----------



## Motormagican

Hello Kevin, 
        Great looking project you are building. I have read the posts and think it is a very nice project. Look forward to seeing more. Very nice looking little one you have there too. Kids are the best. 

Thank you for allowing us to follow along.


----------



## happykingkong

HI   kustomkb!        your son Jonah Your son really cute   I am chinese  iam  english is very poor    Iwant  tell you  "you are good father !   You give your son's gift is very good! Hope this motorcycle he can keep a as a souvenir


----------



## JaamieG

Fascinating project, just read it through . It's a new level, not only you made the Hoglet motor but build an awesome motorcycle around it.

Cheers,
Giacomo


----------



## mrehmus

Randy made a larger Hoglet using Briggs & Stratton Heads. That one went into a Harley Sportster frame that he could ride.

He was working on super-Hoglet with Honda heads when he died quite quickly on September 27, 2014.

He will be missed as a good friend.

Mike Rehmus


----------



## Stieglitz

Hi Kustomkb,
                  Any chance you would upload photos of the build?
Cheers.


----------



## Trialnterror

Jason when doing your spark plug hole once on angle how did you know where to machine your hole i.e. I know it's .813 but that's when it's horizontal, I could layout with a mark and use a wiggler once on 30* to machine the hole but isn't there a different way to accurately find the dim once the part is on the angle specified? I know the cam housing you put on center and rotated the rotary table the degrees specified and that was your dim. Is this the same? Could you some how mount this on a rotary table and rotate 30*? 




kustomkb said:


> Thanks again Bob.
> 
> 
> ??? ???
> 
> Heads set to 21 deg. for intake;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Intake bored;
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> Set over for spark plug bore;
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> Bore complete;
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> ready for outside contour;
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> Roughed;
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> finished;
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> cooling fins cut;
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> Test fit of heads;
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> 
> 
> Also radiussed the tips of the push rods;
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> And used a crappy tire die nut : to threads 4-40
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> which cut okay
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> Then faced to length and centre drilled the push rods;
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> And turned down between centres, (had no 3/16 AL)
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> 
> 
> Have a good day!


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## Jasonb

Scribe a line 0.813 from the ctr of the head.

Set work in the vice at 30deg and line up on ctr line

Use a pointed wobbler or "sticky pin" to pick up the position of the scribed line, with a good eye you should get to within a thou or two.

If you are not sure then shout and I'll mock up a photo.


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## Trialnterror

Thank you very much.


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## Stieglitz

Hi, Nice work ,please keep the photos coming.
Cheers,
Allen.


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## Trialnterror

Stieglitz said:


> Hi, Nice work ,please keep the photos coming.
> Cheers,
> Allen.



I was asking a question to Jason and quoted his post but didn't realize it'd repost all his pictures, he's done with the build.  If you look thru this thread you'll see his progress.. all the way thru to the end. He has some awesome.. scratch that.. AMAZING talent!


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## Jasonb

Trialnterror said:


> I was asking a question to Jason and quoted his post but didn't realize it'd repost all his pictures!


 
Not my post or pictures but figured it waqs me you were asking.


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