# Clausing 8250 mill?



## lazylathe (Jan 19, 2012)

Hi all,

At the moment i have a Sieg SX2L mill.
Quite small and it needs a lot of work and adjustments to get it within spec.

I have the opportunity to buy a Clausing 8250 mill.
Pictures are being e mailed to me tonight and i will then know the condition of the mill.
At the moment it is running on a VFD 220V single phase.
A full set of MT2 collets and a swivel base vice.

Without knowing the condition of the mill...
I was looking for any input from owners of the same mill.
Good and bad.
What to look for iwhen i go and have a look at it.

To me it looks like a step in the right direction as it looks like a very solid and stable machine.
Possibly more versatile that what i have now.

Any info would be greatly appreciated!

Andrew


----------



## rklopp (Jan 19, 2012)

I had one of those as my first mill, more or less. I called it a "Clauseport," since it had a Bridgeport head spliced to a 8520 base. The 8520 came from a lab at my former employer, where it had been purchased headless for a one-time project needing a heavy-duty optical translation stage. I think I paid $125 for it. I bought the head from Dave Sobel. The latter was a bit of a rip to make up for the great deal I got on the base. I had to rebuild the head and I fabricated a very stiff mount to join the head to the base. The mount was stress-relieved and scraped into alignment. I dare say the final product was better than an OEM 8520. Stiffness counts!

It was a great little mill, but I bought an Aciera F2 and Deckel FP2NC, which are even better, and I sold the 8520 to free up space.

8520s are great mill, but as with all used machinery, the condition is paramount.


----------



## kvom (Jan 19, 2012)

IMO an R8 spindle vs. MT would be better, but otherwise that's supposed to be a very good mill.


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Jan 19, 2012)

I have one. Has some wear that is evident. Some dings on the table. 

I can't complain it was given to me.

Not all that big, but fits great in my garage.

Let me know if you have specific questions.


----------



## Mosey (Jan 19, 2012)

I have had an 8525 mill for about 10 years, and I like it very much. I also have complete user manuals and parts lists for the variants of that mill, 8530, etc.
I just put an ER25 collet holder/system on it and it is very nice, better than the MT2 collets. If the price is affordable, I wouldn't hesitate. I will gladly answer any specific questions and share the manuals.. It is small enough to get into the shop, and big enough to do some fine mid-size work. Not a toy.
I have replaced the spindle bearings, added DRO, and a power table feed.


----------



## RonGinger (Jan 19, 2012)

I have an 8513. That one was actually built to have a Bridgeport M head instead of the Clausing head. I called the factory about it once and they said they built a batch of them for a specific customer.

I have had mine for probably 15 years and think its a fine mill. If you can find one in decent shape I would not hesitate to buy it. It would be nice to have a real Bridgeport, but if you dont have room this is a good machine. A lot better than the typical mini-mill.


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 19, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies and info!

I will post pics of it as soon as they are sent to me.
It will be easier to see exactly what it is.
He has also said he is not sure if it is an 8250, he will have to check but it might be the next one up.

I know that a Bridgeport is definitely out of the question!
Too big and not enough space, but i have a corner that a Clausing will fit nicely into!

Andrew


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 20, 2012)

It is an 8520 model.
Pictures should be sent this weekend sometime!

Found out he lives about 20 minutes down the road!!!

If all goes well i should be able to break it down into manageable parts and bring them home a few at a time!
This will also give me a chance to clean and check everything before reassembly!

Andrew


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Jan 20, 2012)

It is definitely easy to move compared to a BP.

I did it with a small trailer. Rotated the head 90 degrees and actually laid it down. Me and another guy. Cushioned it and strapped it down.

Took 3 guys to get it vertical, but more because it is ungainly not because it is heavy.

Certainly easy to disassemble too. Head, column and base would be a logical and moveable way to break it up.


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 21, 2012)

Okay, so i have been sent the pictures of the mill.
He has decided to remove the VFD and keep it.
In my mind that should lower the price of the mill since he said it was included.
I have not spoken to him about that yet.

Any thoughts on it's condition?
He has said in his last e mail that quick scotchbrite of the table and a coat of paint and it will look like new.

My first impressions are it looks like a good machine but a first hand inspection is required.
Need to see how bad the table is and other parts.
I noticed that the fine adjustment wheel is also absent.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
If i were to go and have a look do you have any pointers on what to look out for?
Quill bearings etc...

Oh and one other thing, what do you think it is worth?

Andrew


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Jan 21, 2012)

One of the handwheels on the little atlas I think will fit. I bought one for mine and drilled and tapped it for a set screw. I have never used it. Always just lift the table.

I'd adjust the gibs for the the table while it is centered then crank it out...and see how far it will go before it gets stiff.

You can see lead screws from underneath...not all of it but some of it. Take a flashlight.

No idea on bearings.

Price? No idea. As I said mine was free. The guy that owned it had the idea that anything less than a bridgeport was beneath him.

On ebay I have seen them from 500 to 1500. depending on vise/tooling/ condition/ location.


----------



## kvom (Jan 21, 2012)

Check for backlash. Take a DI and measure runout on the spindle.

Run knee full up and down, and X/Y axes over full range.

How do the ways get lubricated?


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 21, 2012)

I will have to set up a meeting, maybe next weekend to go and see the mill.
Give it a good once over.
Hopefully he has not removed the VFD and i can power it up!

How are the ways lubed?
No clue, but most likely the same way that my Sieg does.
Manually by me whenever using it! ;D
Could possibly install a one shot lube system?

Thanks for the tips!
Keep them coming!!

Andrew


----------



## Mosey (Jan 21, 2012)

The ways are lubed by squirting oil into a series of zerk fittings, manually. I can give you an operators manual with all of the locations shown, and the specs for lubing. Nothing special.


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 21, 2012)

Thanks Mosey!
That would be great!

I will PM you my email address!

Andrew


----------



## tattoomike68 (Jan 21, 2012)

It looks oil starved but a Home shop guy could lube it up and make a go with it.

It has potential/


----------



## n4zou (Jan 21, 2012)

lazylathe  said:
			
		

> Hopefully he has not removed the VFD and i can power it up!



Whenever I check a spindle that can't be powered up I just wrap a rope around a pulley and yank it like we did small engines back in the day. Just turning it by hand without the belt will let you feel for bad bearings. I do that even when they can be powered up. If it's hard to turn and/or you can feel "bumps" as you turn it by hand you know the bearings are shot.


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Jan 22, 2012)

Mine has ball oilers. A couple oilers on each x y and z axis. Some on the spindle, some on the fine down gear train.

I lubed mine today, trammed the vise, aligned the head and adjusted the gibbs. They were all loose and I am wondering if it was because it was cold in the garage.


----------



## Mosey (Jan 22, 2012)

You're right, I guess they are ball oilers. 10 of them all together. Clausing says "Oil Daily, with S.A.E. #20 oil"
The handwheel for the fine-feed has a pin in the back to engage with it's gearbox. you could probably do this without trouble.


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Jan 23, 2012)

You get the mill yet?????


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 23, 2012)

Not yet!
I am going to pick it up soon though.
The guy is not in a hurry and has not advertised it anywhere.
He is keeping it for me while i sort some stuff out on my side.

He will even deliver it to my garage at no cost!!! ;D

I posted a few questions here:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=16116.msg177974;topicseen#new

Andrew


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Jan 23, 2012)

Congrats! Looking forward to pics and updates!


----------



## n4zou (Jan 23, 2012)

lazylathe  said:
			
		

> Not yet!
> I am going to pick it up soon though.
> The guy is not in a hurry and has not advertised it anywhere.
> He is keeping it for me while i sort some stuff out on my side.
> ...




Perhaps he just wanted to find a good home for it.


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 23, 2012)

LOL!!!

Best part of it is that i have sold the Taig and will have the money for the mill soon!!!!! ;D :big: ;D
Thought i may have to wait a while for that to sell....

Andrew


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 24, 2012)

Another question...

The mill is coming with a 220V 3 Phase motor.
I have 110V single pahse power in my basement.
Can i just change the motor to a 110V one, same speed as the 220V one?

If i do that what can i add to control the speed so that i do not have to change belts and pulley
configurations?

Looking at VFD's it seems i will need a transformer to get what it has now to work.

Thanks,

Andrew


----------



## RonGinger (Jan 24, 2012)

Dont change the motor, single phase motors cannot have their speed controlled.

VFDs are real cheap now. A friend just got one that is rated 1hp, 120v input, 240v output for $120. You do not need anything else, just hook the VFD to the power line, well, you do need an on/off switch, but an ordinary house switch will work just fine.

If you are in the US I have found the best place to get a VFD is dealerselectric.com


----------



## kvom (Jan 24, 2012)

With a VFD, do not use the mill's on/off switch. Use the switch/button on the VFD instead.


----------



## n4zou (Jan 24, 2012)

Download this book. 
"Workshop Practice Series - 16 Electric Motors" at this site.
http://www.filecrop.com/workshop-practice-series.html

It contains everything you need to know about operating 3-phase motors on single phase power supplies. 

I worked in a job shop that did not have 3-phase power available. The Shop owner had a huge 3-phase motor that was used as a phase converter. He had a 12" trailer wheel and tire attached to the motor shaft. Every morning we would go out to that motor and start it rotating with the tire acting as a flywheel. After we got it moving we would throw the breaker switch to on and it would start spinning up to speed. All the machines in the shop with 3-phase motors were wired up to it and ran just fine on it including a couple of CNC machines.


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 24, 2012)

Thanks for the replies!

The local guy i was talking to told me i would need a transformer to convert the 110V to 220V single phase
and then have that going into the VFD to convert it to 220V 3 phase.
Seemed a bit odd to me.
I remember seeing 11V to 220V 3phase vfd's.

I have the whole series in book form, just need to read them.
Now seems like a good time to read the motor one!
Thanks!

Andrew


----------



## ninefinger (Jan 24, 2012)

RonGinger  said:
			
		

> VFDs are real cheap now. A friend just got one that is rated 1hp, 120v input, 240v output for $120. You do not need anything else, just hook the VFD to the power line, well, you do need an on/off switch, but an ordinary house switch will work just fine.
> 
> If you are in the US I have found the best place to get a VFD is dealerselectric.com




You don't need to be in the US to order from them. I'm in Ontario too and I ordered my VFD from them (a 3HP unit for my mill). You just need to email or call them as the online ordering doesn't work for us Canadians.

I also put in place a rocker, fused disconnect box on the input to my vfd. I use it to shut everything down when I'm done for the day. The VFD is used to control the motor (Fwd/off/rev).

Mike

Mike


----------



## shred (Jan 25, 2012)

FWIW, the 110v upconverting VFDs stop around 1 HP as you aren't supposed to pull more than that out of your typical socket/circuit.


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 25, 2012)

shred  said:
			
		

> FWIW, the 110v upconverting VFDs stop around 1 HP as you aren't supposed to pull more than that out of your typical socket/circuit.



Thanks Shred!
I think it either has a 1/2 or max 3/4 hp motor.
I am leaning towards a 1/2 horse though

Andrew


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 25, 2012)

VFD question!

If the motor is a 1/2hp do i need to get a VFD that is bigger that that?

1/2hp motor - 3/4hp VFD??

I am only planning on running the mill from it.

Andrew


----------



## BobsModels (Jan 25, 2012)

Andrew

I think you will like your mill. I had an 8520 rebuilt it and a month later along came an 8530 in mint condition. So I now have an 8530. I Have VFD's on a Series 1 BP and on the 8530, and on a 7.5HP Quincy air compressor. They are real easy. I took the single phase motor off the 8530 and purchased a 3 phase for it along ithe a VFD.

I have purchased all my vfd's from Dealers Electric, I have Westinghouse TECO's no problems. I have never purchased a VFD with out speaking to the sales people at Dealers's. I have always told them just what the motor is from the motor plate (all the data), told them what power I had access to 110 or 220 single phase in my case. They told me which VFD fit my application. The Compressor was tricky and they called Westinghouse and came back with a model different than was originally discussed. Point is do not guess - work with them. Also there are several versions. I buy the ones that have a speed pot built into the VFD, start stop on the panel, and remoting ability. More dollars but more options. They will tell you thebasics of how to wire it up. Basically power line to the unit, unit output to the motor ( no switch in the output side!!). Also the TECO support staff will help if you run into a setup issue.

Good Luck

Bob


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks for the info Bob!
As soon as the mill gets here and i have the motor info i will contact them.

Good to know there are still some helpful suppliers out there!

Andrew


----------



## shred (Jan 25, 2012)

I upsized-mine just for future-proofing, but as near as I can tell you don't have to de-rate the VFDs that are designed for 110v in (some that do both 110 and 220 in are different)


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 31, 2012)

Been talking to the guys at dealerselectric about VFD's.

They recommend using a 1HP one since the motor is actually 3/4HP.
They are recommending their most popular model:
http://dealerselectric.com/item.asp?cID=28&PID=428

I will go with this one, it also has the variable speed pot on the front which will be quite handy!

Also been looking around at MT2 tooling.
Found that you can get a MT2 to R8 adapter that is precision ground.
So i can use my R8 tooling!!! ;D
May loose a bit of head room though...

I will be collecting it in two weeks time as the guy is away this weekend... 
Hope the weather is good so that i can disassemble it and get it down into the basement quickly!

Andrew


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Jan 31, 2012)

That is a nice little VFD. DO you get reverse our of it?

That will be very handy.


----------



## lazylathe (Jan 31, 2012)

The VFD does not have reverse.
But the mill does have one of those controls for FWD-OFF-REVERSE on it.
Should be able to use that with a bit of wiring wizardry!

Andrew


----------



## RCupp (Jan 31, 2012)

Sorry but you won't be able to do that...With a VFD you remove all of the original control/control electrical components. You will run a power input into the unit and run a power output to your motor and all will be controlled by the front panel on the VFD. If it has the capability you can use remote mounted control switches or remote mount the control face which I would recommend so you don't have this big "thing" up in your way all the time and also to keep the unit clean. I put a Teco on my big mill several years ago that I bought from Dealers at NAMES and it has worked flawless, also have a Hitachi on my lathe but I prefer the Teco, great unit!!
Just my opinion, Robert


----------



## shred (Feb 1, 2012)

I' pretty sure that VFD will be able to run in reverse. My Tecos all do. You can wire the machine fwd/rev switches to be VFD inputs and use them like an external control panel, but do not put any switches on the 3P after the VFD or bad things will happen sooner or later.


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 3, 2012)

Found this interesting thread on PM.
Seems that you can use the drum switch if you wire it up correctly.
Looks like a good idea along with the pot!

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...teco-vfd-install-enclosure-3-ph-motor-226569/

Andrew


----------



## RonGinger (Feb 3, 2012)

Yes, you can hook it up, but if you ever switch it with the VFD on it will be instant 'end of life' for the VFD.

Why would you do this? I have never seen a vfd that did not have the ability to run the motor in either direction. most even have a Forward/Reverse button on the control panel.


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 3, 2012)

I am just researching all of my options for now.
That post interested me because someone seems to
have achieved what I inquired about and was told it
was not possible.

Most likely I will wire in the vfd in the traditional way.
Keep the drum switch for another project!

Andrew


----------



## RCupp (Feb 4, 2012)

You can use the factory switch but you have to use the remote wiring terminals if equipped, you cannot switch the main motor output power wires on and off...


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 7, 2012)

Saturday morning at 10am is when the mill is being delivered!!!

Then comes the disassembly to get it downstairs and the big clean up and reassembly...
Might not get it totally back together this weekend as i will clean and inspect as much of it as i can.
Going to be a good few hours of elbow grease involved! ;D

Oh and the honey do list just got longer!
I was informed of this when i mentioned what was going on Saturday morning....

Andrew


----------



## steamer (Feb 7, 2012)

That would appear to be the optimum time to extend the Honey do list....about 5 minutes before the already planed activity is about to start... :

Dave


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 10, 2012)

One more sleep to go!!!! ;D

Andrew


----------



## Catminer (Feb 11, 2012)

" Saturday morning at 10am is when the mill is being delivered!!! "

 Well? ;D

 Peter


----------



## dsquire (Feb 11, 2012)

Catminer  said:
			
		

> " Saturday morning at 10am is when the mill is being delivered!!! "
> 
> Well? ;D
> 
> Peter



Peter

I bet he got so excited that he forgot all about us in the cheering section. :big: :big:

Cheers 

Don


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 11, 2012)

;D Due to the snow it arrived around 11:30.
I did remember to take some pictures though!
Will post them tomorrow!

Took about an hour to disassemble and get it downstairs.
Not too bad all things considered.

Spent the rest of the day taking the whole mill apart for a good cleaning!
It is in many pieces at the moment...

Only thing I could find wrong with it was that a spring washer
is missing!

Still have the cabinet to clean up.

Most of the rust was very light surface rust and came off really easily.
A very busy day with more to come tomorrow!

Andrew


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 11, 2012)

Here's a little teaser!!!

It came with a Palmgren vise!
Looks like a drill press vise....






Here are a lot of the parts all cleaned!
They are coated with a rust and corrosion protective coat for now.
It is a blend of oil and wax.





If you look at earlier pics you will see how rusted the one part was and how shiny it is now!!!

More tomorrow!
Bed time now!
That was a hard days work!

Andrew


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Feb 11, 2012)

So far so good!!!

Congrats!


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 12, 2012)

Correction, it is a milling vise!!!
It just needs a good cleaning and some new jaw inserts and it will be ready to work again!

SWMBO came downstairs to see what i was up to and made a few comments.
She did not like the colour of the mill.
Some of the machine grey had worn off and the white primer was showing through.
No big deal to me since it is just surface and does not affect the way the mill will work.

Apparently that was not a good enough answer....
So out with the degreaser, rust remover, paint stripper and TriSodium Phosphate...

So far i have the knee all stripped down and primed.
The front door of the cabinet is also primed.
Still a long way to go....
But it will be good once it is all done and back together! ;D

Any recommendations on paint in Canada??
Looking for something that can be brushed on and is very hard when dry.
Research on the forums has shown Alkyd Enamel paints and oil based paints.
Also looking at implement and equipment enamel paint from TSC stores.

Will post pics of parts when done or of anything interesting!

The gears in the head are all in pristine condition, which is very good!
The little bit of play i felt in the tables was due to the leadscrew nuts being loose!

Andrew


----------



## Jared (Feb 12, 2012)

I moved up from an X2 to an 8530 a couple months ago and I love it. It had a bent spindle and I was able to get a new one from Clausing, but it wasn't cheap. I'm interested in how your VFD works out. Mine's 110V but if it can be done cheap enough I might consider converting so I can have variable speed. Probably won't, but still interested. The only thing I wish was different about it is the X-axis could be an inch more.


----------



## steamer (Feb 12, 2012)

I have heard many good things about TSC paints. I've been using Rustoleum with good results thus far.

Dave


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Feb 12, 2012)

I used rustoleum on my lathe a couple months ago and it seems to be holding up well.

You just dove right in on this one didn't you?

Makes me want to go out and rip mine apart and paint it up too!!


----------



## jpeter (Feb 12, 2012)

VFD feature thats nice is the brake. It saves a lot of waiting around for the motor to spin down. Get one with a brake option. The brake feature is a lot like a cruise control on your car, you don't know how much you'll like it until you have one. After that you can't live without it.


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 13, 2012)

Thank you all for the replies!!!

Jared: If your motor is 11V you will need to swap it for a 220V 3 phase one and get the corresponding VFD. Another cheaper option would be to find a second hand variac transformer. This will allow you to control the speed of the motor. Not as efficient as a VFD and you may lose a lot of torque.

Steamer: I used restoleum on a lathe i restored and found it to not get rock hard. I could still leave finger nail marks in the paint a few months later. Maybe just a bad batch? I think i will try a small can of the TSC paint, may also get a can of black to darken the grey a bit.

Sic Semper Tyrannis; The best way to get to know a machine is to take it apart! ;D Although i have to admit this sucker has a LOT of parts!!! Everything seems to be in good condition though. The bearings are a bit sticky with the old grease having congealed. Any ideas on how to get it out of the bearings?

jpeter: The VFD i am looking at has the option to add a braking resistor to it, so that may be an option i will test in the future. I am so far away from thinking about that for now though...

For anyone else reading this!
All of the bearings have old, congealed grease in them. Their action is very jerky and not smooth.
Is there a way to get the old grease out? Instead of buying new bearings?
I have them soaking in kerosene at the moment.
I have read about using carb cleaner too? Any info on this?

Andrew


----------



## RonGinger (Feb 13, 2012)

> Jared: If your motor is 11V you will need to swap it for a 220V 3 phase one and get the corresponding VFD. Another cheaper option would be to find a second hand variac transformer. This will allow you to control the speed of the motor. Not as efficient as a VFD and you may lose a lot of torque.



Most mills like the Clausing use an induction motor. An induction motor cannot be speed controlled by a variac. Only a universal motor- one with brushes- can be controlled, and as you mention with low torque. If you connect a variac to an induction motor you will likely burn the motor coils.


----------



## f350ca (Feb 13, 2012)

Andrew
Automotive enamel paints use hardener. You can get it from Napa or similar auto supply places. Makes the world of difference with Tremcad or its clones. Follow the directions, and your regular enamel will set up in about an hour rather than days, have a beter shine and tougher finish.
If the kerosene doesn't loosen up the old grease try paint thiner, might be a little more aggressive. Look the spindle bearings over real close, if any doubt replace them.
Good luck
Greg


----------



## krv3000 (Feb 13, 2012)

Hi carbe cleaner is good for cleaning Bering's


----------



## Catminer (Feb 13, 2012)

Carb cleaner or varsol. Wash,rinse,blow dry and repeat.
I agree about Rustoleum, what about TSC's machinery enamels?
You might have a problem getting hardeners for non waterborne 
paints. If your going to try I have some urethane hardener going to 
waste that your welcome to.
 Any excuse to come down to Woodstock and visit my new grandson again 
anyway.

 Peter


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks guys!

Peter, i did not know that you had adopted me!!!! :big:
Does that mean i can come and use your tools and leave you the mess to clean up??? :big:

Congratulations once again!!!!
You know the drill, whenever you are down in this part stop by!!
You are always welcome!!!

I am going to have a look and see what the local TSC stocks.
Hopefully they will have something.

I will also look into NAPA although i really dislike the guys that work there!!
Too lazy to get off their a**e* to help....

Andrew


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 14, 2012)

So i stopped off at TSC last night to pick up a small can of Ford Grey paint.
One would think it would be a grey colour, right?

Well it is not actually grey...
Actually more like an appliance beige...
And to top it off it is still tacky this morning....
Think i will return it tonight and get another can to see if it contains some grey paint!

Here is a bad picture of the colour!
The primer on the left is grey!






I may also get a can of the gloss black to add to the grey to get a more acceptable colour!

Andrew


----------



## Mosey (Feb 14, 2012)

I had great success painting my 8525 at Sherwin Williams. I took a piece that had original paint in good shape to them, and they matched it on their computor in their Industrial and Marine finishes, which they don't tell you about, but is in their line. I painted both the mill and my lathe with a low pressure sprayer in place. It is quite hard and durable years later. I still have most of a gallon left.
I will look for a color but don't think there is one.
You can see it in my picture posts.


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 14, 2012)

Why i did not try this stuff before astounds me!!!
I want to personally thank everyone that mentions it in a post!!!
Utterly amazing stuff to say the least!!!

What am i talking about???
CARB CLEANER!!!!!

A few squirts in those seized bearings and the crud comes out!!
Spin them around a few times to get all the crus out and they feel like new again!

I think i have a new friend!!! ;D

Also bought some other paint, battleship grey in colour!!
Looks pretty good in the can!

Well i gotta go and strip some more paint...

Andrew


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Feb 14, 2012)

Keep it off your skin it can mess with your liver!


----------



## lazylathe (Feb 14, 2012)

For sure!
The more toxic something is the better it works!

I always work with solvent gloves when working with chemicals like that.
Safety first!

The warnings on the can are enough to scare anyone away from using the stuff!

If you work carefully with it there will be no problems.

Thanks for the heads up!!!
Much appreciated!

Andrew


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 13, 2012)

YAY!!!!! :big:
It is almost done!!!





Spent the weekend reassembling the mill.
All the lower ball bearings have been replaced, thanks for the help it worked perfectly!
Nice and smooth action now!!
I am thinking of using some JBWeld in the X-Axis lead screw nut as it is a bit loose.






Still need to buy the VFD and hook it all up!
Once that is done and i can assess the state of the head bearings i will make the decision of whether they need to be replaced or if they are okay i will strip and paint it to match.

SWMBO has a large "Honey-Do" list not that the weather is getting warmer...
I have another room to remodel and once summer hits i have the backyard to contend with!!

And it seems like we are rescuing a small pure bred Cairn Terrier!
The owner, who works with my wife and is single, has found a boyfriend and now has a life and no time for the dog!
I hate/despise people like that...
And this is the dogs second home already...
At least we will look after it and it will not be left locked up for 13 hours a day....

Anywho, i will be doing a write up on the mill restoration soon with pictures!!!

Andrew


----------



## Mosey (Mar 13, 2012)

If yours has a nut that use a wrench to lock the spindle vertical movement, may I suggest that you make a ball-ended lever similar to that on the spindle feed that you have. Red ball is nice. Good luck with it, you will come to love your Clausing.
Did I hear someone say that Clausing parts were available again?


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 27, 2012)

Thanks Mosey!

I contacted Clausing about a month ago and have not heard back from them...
Doubtful if parts are available again.

I ordered the VFD this morning and should have it in a week!!!! ;D :big: ;D

Andrew


----------



## Mosey (Mar 27, 2012)

When you're ready, I can show you how I mounted some inexpensive but good DRO's on it. Twice.
Enjoy. Do get a set of ER Collets and stop driving yourself crazy with MT-2's. No more beating on drawbar.


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 27, 2012)

How do you mount the ER collets?
Is there an MT2 to ER adapter?

The drawbars it came with were made too short...
I had to turn the bolt shorter before they would grip the collet threads.
Works quite well now!

Very interested in the ER option though!

Andrew


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Mar 27, 2012)

Yeah more info on ER collets AND cheap DRO mounts!!!

Thanks in advance!!!


----------



## Mosey (Mar 27, 2012)

Yes, I bought an MT-2 holder with a set of ER-25 collets from AllesGute (no connection)on EBay. They cost about $110.00. I like them, and they seem to be reasonably accurate. Changing mills is a snap, as you just lock the spindle lightly and pop in a new collet and slide the mill or whatever into the collet, give it a light turn on the nut and you are good to go. The holder is threaded for 3/8" x 16, just use your existing drawbar, tighten it once and that's the last time. I'll photo the DRO's and post them soon.


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 27, 2012)

Lucky me!!
Thanks to Arnold's suggestion i have a full set of ER-25 collets for my R8 mini mill!!!
Just need the MT2 to ER holder and i will be good to go!!!

Thanks Mosey!

And pics of the DRO install and what kind would be excellent!!!

Andrew


----------



## Mosey (Mar 27, 2012)

Andrew,
Here are some pics of my DRO installation on the Clausing. The DRO's are the New Grizzly stainless steel ones with the integral remote readouts. They seem to be OK. If you have any specific questions, I will be happy to answer.
I have yet to mount the remotes, so they are sitting on the table right now. I'm working on a bracket up high.


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 27, 2012)

Thanks for the pics Mosey!
I will have a look at the DRO's you are using.

I see you also have a power feed on your table.
Is that one you fitted yourself?
It does not look like a standard item that came with the mill.

Andrew


----------



## Mosey (Mar 27, 2012)

No, it's one I put on years ago. Got it cheap at about $150.00, made from bamboo, maybe from Penn Tool in NJ.. It necessitated a custom fit sleeve on the shaft but even I could handle it. The fuse popped every time you reversed, so I put a slow-blow fuse in it and it's still going. The fast forward died immediately. I'm too lazy to crank.
I used to have Shars DRO's on it, but they break, and their remotes expensive and are a pure waste of money.


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 27, 2012)

I seem to have lost a post... must have pressed the wrong button.

Do you think that the 6 inch scales are long enough for all the axes?
I would think a longer one would be required for the x?

I had a look on the Grizzly site and they only seem to come in 6 inch lengths.

Andrew


----------



## Mosey (Mar 27, 2012)

6" is definitely not long enough for X axis. I think I got 24" and cut it to about 18". They cut easily with Dremel metal cutting wheel. Big waste of $$ but what you gonna do? I'll check what I got and post it tomorrow.


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 28, 2012)

Ordered a MT2 to ER-25 adapter!
Should be about a week or so!
Just in time for the VFD installation.

Andrew


----------



## Sic Semper Tyrannis (Mar 28, 2012)

What is the size range of an ER25? Is there a better size? ER40? ER32?


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 28, 2012)

Just got an email that my VFD is ready to collect!
Placed the order yesterday morning and they had to get it from the States!!
Now that is what i call service!!!!

Price was the same as if i was ordering from dealerselectric.
I would have been charged the import duties with them though, so i actually saved some money!
$196 CAD, not too bad!!!

Andrew


----------



## Mosey (Mar 28, 2012)

Andrew,
The DRO sizes you will need are approximately 6" for Y" axis, and 18" for X axis, but that is travel, not length. You lose about 5" in the brackets and the slider, so the DRO's need to be about 23" and 11" overall. So, buy a 24" (there is no nominal 18") and a 6" (is actually 12" long overall) and you will have what you need.
Mosey


----------



## arnoldb (Mar 28, 2012)

Good going Andrew Thm:.

Mosey's right - when you buy scales, check that the travel length is as long as - or slightly longer than - the axis on which you want to mount it. Overall length will be longer than that, depending on how wide the mounting points are and the width of the read head. I can't wait for mine to arrive; should be here in about two weeks ;D



			
				Sic Semper Tyrannis  said:
			
		

> What is the size range of an ER25? Is there a better size? ER40? ER32?


Hi Sic - the ER25 clamping range is 1 to 16mm. As to a "better size" - that depends on what you want to use the collets for. ER32 and ER40 can take bigger sizes - so you have to look at the sizes available and decide what would suit most of your work and your machines. I originally settled on ER25 for my lathe's collet chuck based on two factors: price (if you're broke you're broke!), and the fact that my ML7 lathe can only pass 16mm stock through the spindle anyway. For bigger work I use the 3 or 4 jaw chucks.
My milling machine can comfortably run ER40, but as I already have the ER25 range, I built a collet chuck for it to use those; saves spending on another range of collets. I did find that on the smaller sizes (less than 6mm) things got difficult to clamp with the ER25 - the ER32 and ER40 will have this problem as well, so I actually bought a set of ER11 collets and made a small chuck I can use with those.

Kind regards, Arnold


----------



## archer3d (Mar 29, 2012)

Looking good Andrew. I found a place up in Markham that has a pretty good selection of tooling http://www.accusizetools.ca/
Take a look at them as they have some DRO's that may work for you. I have not used them yet but am seriously considering them for my big Tos Fn25. Prices are good.

Tom


----------



## Jared (Mar 31, 2012)

lazylathe  said:
			
		

> I contacted Clausing about a month ago and have not heard back from them...
> Doubtful if parts are available again.



I was able to get a spindle for my 8530 back in December. I sent them an email and IIRC I got a reply in a couple days. Certainly not a month.


----------



## Mosey (Mar 31, 2012)

How do you contact them?


----------



## lazylathe (Mar 31, 2012)

Hi Jared,

If you still have the persons contact details at Clausing that would be great!!
I am sure Mosey, myself and a few others would be greatly appreciative!!!

Andrew


----------



## Jared (Mar 31, 2012)

http://www.clausing-industrial.com/partsService.asp 

Go down to the bottom of the page and there's an email address. They don't have everything but it's worth a shot. If you want bearings take a look here http://www.wentztech.com/metalworking/equipment/clausing-8520-mill/. The owner of that site, Dale, is also on here as dwentz. Buying bearings from Clausing will be $pendy, but you can get them from bearing supply houses for much less if you have the numbers which you can get on that site.


----------



## Mosey (Apr 2, 2012)

Becky at Clausing informed me today that lead screw nuts are unavailable for the 8500 series. Boo, hoo.


----------



## Jared (Apr 2, 2012)

Rats! I was looking at mine. They're in pretty good shape but they didn't look like they would be too hard to make. Only thing is a chunk of brass or bronze wouldn't be cheap!


----------



## Mosey (Apr 3, 2012)

Especially in Port Angeles.
I think making a lead screw nut of the precision required is beyond my capabilties. Can you do it?


----------



## lazylathe (Apr 3, 2012)

I sent off an email requesting a list of available spares if possible.
When they reply i will post it here!!
Hopefully they have something we could use!

Andrew


----------



## lazylathe (Apr 3, 2012)

Well no list of spares available...
You have to supply the number of the part and they will check.

I asked about the leadscrew nuts.
The x and y are not available but the Z is still available.
$132 each!!!

One nice thing that they did supply me with was drawings for the X and Y axis nuts!!
I have attached them for anyone interested!

Andrew 

View attachment 537-016.PDF


View attachment 537-018.PDF


----------



## steamer (Apr 3, 2012)

That was mighty nice of them!
Dave


----------



## Jared (Apr 7, 2012)

Mosey  said:
			
		

> Especially in Port Angeles.
> I think making a lead screw nut of the precision required is beyond my capabilties. Can you do it?



Way-ull, when you put it that way... I dunno, I ain't never tried it. That precision thing kinda throws a wrench in the gears.


----------



## RonGinger (Apr 7, 2012)

I had the same issue with my Clausing, the factory parts were way out of my budget. I bought screw stock and cast nuts from http://www.wedin.com/catalog.pdf Their web site has some of the worst flash graphics to get into it Ive seen.

I had to turn the end of the screw and machine the base of the nut, but as I recall teh stock was relatively cheap and it wasnt to hard to get right. i did get a friend to help, with a bigger lathe,


----------

