# Charity Shop Beam Engine.



## Tony Bird (Mar 3, 2017)

Hi,

I had no intention of making another engine from bits bought in a charity shop until I saw this set of scales on offer for £5 and thought beam engine!





It cleaned up well.





Then the butchery began.














Main bearings were made.





Flywheels made from wheels of a previously played with model cannon were fitted.








I suspect the remaining design and construction will be governed by what else can be found to recycle.

Regards Tony.


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## ShopShoe (Mar 3, 2017)

Tony,

I will be watching. I am always amazed by your ability to see engine parts in charity shop items. I have some objects of my own that I can see being recycled in an engine project someday. Some may not agree with this approach, but I like all kinds of mechanical objects and using the "artsy" side of the brain is just as good for the soul as using the other side. 

Keep it up

--ShopShoe


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## bazmak (Mar 3, 2017)

I cannot think of anyone not agreeing with this approach.But yes I suppose
there would be a few that think the world is still square.Keep up the posts
I am truly amazed at what you achieve . Regards barry


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## Tony Bird (Mar 4, 2017)

Hi,

I have to admit that playing with these charity shop purchases I find fun.  Having made many models of both my own and other peoples designs not being exactly sure how things will workout/evolve is interesting. 

Did some more work on the beam engine yesterday.

Fitted bearings for the beam and drilled some holes for oil pots.





The recesses in the end of the beams were drilled out and plugged.





What did take a lot of time after the plugs were fitted was machining and drilling the ends of the beam for connect rod and piston rod bearings.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Mar 5, 2017)

Hi,

I haven't got lot done over the weekend, yesterday we went to Bath for one of our granddaugters birthday and while there saw a rather nice Daimler delivery van that had picked up a parking ticket!





I did manage a few hours in the shed this afternoon when I made two oil pots.





And fitted pivots to the ends of the beam.





The beam has had some etching primer applied to see how well it will fill all the cracks.





Regards Tony.


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## tornitore45 (Mar 5, 2017)

There is no artsy side on my two left brains but sure admire the creativity displayed by such projects.


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## Tony Bird (Mar 6, 2017)

Hi,

Today I made a start on the clevise for the connecting rod.  A brass base from a clock case was recycled, hard work as it was too large for my mechanical hack saw.





Holes were plugged.





With luck I have enough material for the two clevises and the connecting rod big end.





One of the clevises was roughed out.





And fitted to the beam.





Having had a look through 'Might come in useful box' I found the remains of a shaft, I think from a toasting fork.  This will become the connecting rod.





The model as it now looks.





Regards Tony.


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## bazmak (Mar 6, 2017)

Love the work but must disagree on your idea of hard work cutting a piece of brass with the hacksaw.I too do not have a power saw.I cut a oiece of 5"dia
mild steel with a hacksaw,70 yrs of age and 1 and 1/2 hrs later bingo
I wont be doing that again in a hurry


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## tornitore45 (Mar 7, 2017)

I cut a 1" x 2.5" steel bar with the hack saw once, age 65 at the time, never again.


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## Tony Bird (Mar 7, 2017)

Hi,

As I have arthritic thumbs and wrists I try to keep sawing to a minimum.

The big end was made today as there was enough material to make it and the other clevise'

Drilled and tapped to hold the split bearing together.





Cut into two.





Mating surfaces machined.





The two parts bolted together and centre drilled.





Drilled and reamed to size.





Shoulder for connecting rod.





Glued to mandrel with shellac.





Turning axle shoulder.





A drift was used to make the connecting rod round at its ends after it had been annealed.





Part assembled connecting rod.





Test fitting of connecting rod.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Mar 8, 2017)

Hi,

I had a bit of a push today and made the crank shaft and finished the connecting rod.








Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Mar 16, 2017)

Tony - it looks good at this point, will be following closely.  I hope you are able to get shop time.  
I wish I could find one of those mechanical hacksaws, since I am physically and dynamically challenged - the piece would be unrecognizable after the hacksaw massacre.  I have been unable to find a home workshop appropriate mechanical hacksaw.  Will buy it when I do.


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## mikelkie (Mar 16, 2017)

Looks good so far Tony, very innovative idea for recycled stuf,, keep up the progress & :thumbupics


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## Blogwitch (Mar 17, 2017)

I love this sort of 'blingy' stuff, especially if it is made from discarded or non useful bits and pieces. My junk box is full of bits that may come into use at sometime or other.

I used to have the name of bling king at one time because I would concentrate more on the looks rather than operation, but with just a little work, you can have both.

Your con rod reminds me of some column supports I made for my Elmers Mine Engine, in an attempt to make them look a little like barley twist. I thread cut them with a round nosed tool, with the lathe turned by hand (it was too dangerous to use power because it was something like 2 TPI multi start thread).

But it does prove that a little extra work can completely change the look of a mundane looking engine. I was after the Victoriana look, where everything was made ornate rather than just brute force, the very same look that yours is taking on.












Keep up the great work


John


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## mikelkie (Mar 17, 2017)

CYMRO77
Pity you'r so far away, got a great captain free to go to anyone in need


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## Cymro77 (Mar 18, 2017)

Mikelkie - thanks for the thought:


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## Tony Bird (Apr 2, 2017)

Hi,

I have done a little more to the beam engine after a bit of a rest.  I have to decide on what to make the cylinder from, what sort of valve gear and whether to use parrallel motion.

While thinking of what to do and what to use I have painted what has been made so far.











Regarding the fitting parrellel motion, given the shape and lightness of the beam I think parrallel motion might look a little heavy.  I have been considering using a cross head and connecting rod see attachment.





I have never seen a beam engine like this before and I think it is a bit ugly but the idea might work.  Any suggestion or more information on this type of engine will be considered.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Apr 5, 2017)

Hi,

While still thinking about a cylinder/valve gear I came across a cylinder fitted with a trunk guide that I made many years ago, unfortuneatly it is too large but the idea might be the way to go.








While hunting around for ideas I found a long pipe connector that might be long enough to make a cylinder and trunk guide.





It has a 15mm bore which is quite well finished.





So some drawings and sums will have to be done.  Which won't happen for a bit as come tomorrow we will be away playing trains in Peterborough for a few days.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 2, 2017)

Hi,

As nothing suitable has come up, except for a rather large cast iron cylinder set for a 5"/7.25" locomotive probably GWR.  If anyone has a very large flywheel, a horizontal engine might be made.





So it was decided to use the pipe connector for the basis of a cylinder.  First the fitting was machined parallel between centres.











A shoulder was turned at one end.





The tube was parted off.





And a shoulder turned on its other end.





Bushes to hold the cylinder covers were turned and silver soldered onto the shoulders and the cylinder lapped.





Next a bottom cylinder cover was started which would also serve to hold the cylinder to the bed plate of the model.  Alas no suitably thick brass sheet was in stock so it was decided to make some.  This was achieved by soldering two thinner brass sheets together.  First two square over size parts were roughly sawed out.





The two sheets were silver soldered together, the solder being fed into the lip formed between the sheets until the top sheet floated on the solder.





The now thicker sheet was machined to size.





Next a shoulder to locate the cylinder was need to be turned in the centre of the brass sheet.  This was done using a shellac chuck, first a centre drill was used to drill a hole in the centre of the sheet.  A shellac chuck was charged with shellac and the brass sheet placed on it as close to centre as possible by eye.  When the shellac became mastic a glove was used to put the still very warm chuck in the lathe, the work piece was moved until a centre could be pushed into it.  When located the chuck was revolved by hand a few times so centring the work piece.  This system is remarkable accurate.





When cold because of the intermittent cutting a thrust plate was used to support the work piece while turning.





The thrust plate was removed for the final cuts to fit the cylinder.  





End of play yesterday.








Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 3, 2017)

Hi,

With some domestic engineering and another project I didn't get much done on the beam engine yesterday.  The bottom of the cylinder cover was reassessed for clearance and the cylinder was drilled and tapped to hold it.











Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 3, 2017)

Hi,

Not a lot achieved today other projects but I did manage to make a cylinder sleeve and rod to help line up the cylinder.







Regards Tony.


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## stragenmitsuko (May 3, 2017)

trying to understand here , but I seem to be missing something . 

If you're not going to use parallell motion , and if your cylinder is fixed to the baseplate 
how wil you connect  the up and down motion of the piston to the circular motion of the beam ? 

Pat


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## Tony Bird (May 4, 2017)

Hi Pat,

I will possibly use a slide bar and cross head system similar to the on in the attachment.  With a beam engine there is only a few degrees of movement needed so the connecting rod can be quite short.  I am still thinking about it as I would like to create something that doesn't look too heavy.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 6, 2017)

Hi,

As I am still cogitating about parallel motion or the like, so I decided to make a top cylinder cover that could if necessary accommodate a trunk guide.












I also decided to lagg the cylinders.







I am playing trains tomorrow so it will be the begining of the week before the lagging is turned down.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 7, 2017)

Hi,

Having got up inordinately early and got ahead of myself for the preparations to go and play trains.  I turned the wooden lagging on the cylinder and applied a sealing coat of vanish, I am quite pleased with the results.













Off to play trains I hope it stays dry!

Regards Tony.


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## JCSteam (May 7, 2017)

You should be extremely pleased with the result Tony. I always enjoy watching your builds, and the finish on the wood looks very nice, with very little gap between each piece. Top work Tony:thumbup:


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## bazmak (May 7, 2017)

Very,Very nice work.I do like your projects for quality and inventiveness
Is the timber oak


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## Tony Bird (May 9, 2017)

Hi,

Yes, the wood is I think oak which came from the side of an old draw.

I have I think solved my problem of whether to use parallel motion, slide rods or trunk guide to connect the piston rod to the beam.

I was watching a You Tube video:

https://youtu.be/rtwghZ5Bw9c

Which shows the rebuilding of a Midland compound 4-4-0 which seems to have an extended piston rod that goes through the front cylinder cover.





This reminded me that in Kew Bridge pumping station there is a horizontal pumping engine that uses a tail rod ? via a bell crank to connect to a pump.  So I have decided to have an extended piston rod and fit a packing gland in the bottom cylinder cover.  This should give the piston sufficient support so I can can use a connecting rod between the the piston rod and beam, it will only need to move a few degrees to take out the arc of the beam.  Also it won't I hope look too heavy.

First the cylinder was put in place to mark out the position of a clearance hole for the piston rod.





A hole was drilled to clear the piston rod gland and give a little wriggle room.





Hole.





Bottom cylinder cover drilled and tapped for the gland bush.  Had I had the idea sooner the gland could have been machined as part of the cover.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 9, 2017)

Hi,

I spent most of today make dual gauge track for CMES garden railway but did manage to fit a bush in the bottom cylinder cover.












Regards  Tony.


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## don-tucker (May 9, 2017)

Hi Tony,the Ivatt atlantics used that system on the piston rods,I have it on my Maisie ,I enjoyed that video
Don


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## Tony Bird (May 11, 2017)

Hi Don,

Good to hear from you, I enjoyed the video very much too.

Not a lot of progress with the cylinder as I have been assembling dual gauge track for the garden railway at Cardiff MES.  However I did manage to make a pair of gland nuts and thread the end of the piston rod.  There will be no further progress for sometime as we are away for a bit. I need to find something to use as feet to lift the base board to give clearance for the piston rod, maybe inspiration will come while we are away. 







Regards Tony.


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## ShopShoe (May 11, 2017)

(Tongue in cheek and best wishes)

Tony,

It looks like it's time to check out the charity shops again for inspiration.

Best Wishes again,

--ShopShoe


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## Tony Bird (May 22, 2017)

Hi,

We have been away for the last 10 days or so visiting our daughter and then the IOW.  We arrived home yesterday.

While on the Isle of Wight we passed a Car Boot sale in a field at the side of the road, where some massive purchases were made!  After paying £2 for both of us to go in, I parted with £1 for a 4 sconce candle holder and 50p for a castor, while SWMBO went wild and spent £6 on a trivet!





I have used candle sconces to support an engine bed before and as they are high enough until some thing else turns up they will be used to give the beam engine's extended piston rod some clearance.








This is the general idea, model is just resting on the sconces and will be a bit lower when they are fitted.







Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 22, 2017)

Hi,

I had a lot on today so only spent an hour or so playing.  The sconces have been screwed directly into the wooden base board and have been filled with Plaster of Paris which after setting had some sheet cork glued to it, to protect the cork while I am playing some masking tape has been stuck on it.











Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 25, 2017)

Hi,

I have never made a piston that is in the middle of its rod.  So what I did was make a shouldered bush which is glued and pined to the piston rod.  The bush was then threaded to take a roughed out piston, which hopefully will be trued up and fitted later today. 

























Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 25, 2017)

Hi,

It was getting a little hot in the shed today even with the Air Con on (Shed door open) I finished early.  I did manage to turn the piston to size, make some gaskets and made some PTFE string to use as packing from plumbers tape.  The cylinder is now effectively finished, so the next job is a connecting rod.






















Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (May 26, 2017)

Hi,

With the temperature in the shed hitting 30C I decided to call it a day.  I had hoped to do more but only managed to rough out the coupling rods big end.




















Regards Tony.


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## Twizseven (May 26, 2017)

I know how you feel.  I'm still sat working in my office (10pm.), the windows are open and its still 32 degrees C.

Colin


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## bazmak (May 26, 2017)

You want to be in my neck of the woods.On a 40o day the temp hits
60oc in shed with a translucent roof


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## Cogsy (May 26, 2017)

It's interesting how 'conditioned' we humans get by exposure to our environment. Where I live a 32 C day is a mild spring day and the very depths of winter days get down to a shocking 12-14 C. I stop work in my shed when the mercury gets up around the high 40's or gets down into the single digits at night. Yet a lot of members would potentially perish in such hot conditions and laugh out loud at me as I shivered in my version of 'cold'. I'm starting to wonder how comfortable I'm going to be in Europe next January...


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## Tony Bird (May 27, 2017)

Hi,

Summers over!  South Wales is back to where it often is; overcast, windy with light rain, at least the shed is back to a comfortable 20C.

Today the connecting rods big end was finished, it is more or less the same as the small end of the crank shaft connecting rod but a little shorter.  It was finished in the same way by milling followed by sawing and filing to buttons and some oil pots were fitted. 



















A couple of thin lock nuts with 1/4"x 40 threads are required to lock the big and small ends of the connecting rod in place.  As I had no suitable hexagonal steel in stock a couple of 2 BA steel nuts were used.  A piece of 2 BA thread held in the tail stock was used to position the nut in the 3 jaw chuck.  When secured the nut was drilled to the tapping size, then it was tapped using a tap secured in the tail stock, when complete the nut was left on the tap which allowed the nut to be positioned so it could be thinned down.  With the tap removed the nut was faced to size. 


















Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 4, 2017)

Hi,

The project hasn't stalled yet!  I have been busy with other things. I did do a bit on the connection between the piston rod and the beam. This probably won't be used but will allow measurements to be made.





I will possibly get some more done later in the week.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 5, 2017)

Hi,

With the wonderful weather we have had today in Old South Wales I couldn't do what I intended to do, so I spent some time in the shed playing.
The piston rod is now connected to the beam and even goes up and down! I hope the photographs show how this was achieved, any questions please ask.

A slot was milled.







A shellac chuck was used to thin down some brass










Coupling rod finished.







End of play.





I still haven't decided on what valve gear will be used yet and as the next couple of weeks will be taken up exhibiting and going to exhibitions it seems like a good time to leave the engine for a bit. *To that end the cylinder is temporally secured using its lower gland nut as the orientation of the cylinder will *be decide by the valve gear.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 6, 2017)

Hi,

I had intended to finish working on the model for a bit.  However sat sitting looking at the model I thought the small end of the connecting rod looked a bit big/heavy. It had been made the same size as the square on the bottom of the big end.







So I decided to thin it down a bit, in fact 1.5 mm (1/16") either side.













Back on the model.







Well I think it looks better.  Now I have really finished for a bit though this morning  I had to take our camper van over the mountain to Caerphilly for repair, while waiting and having a walk around the town looking in the charity shops for model elephants (don't ask) I found a pair of brass candle sticks that look as if they might become part of the valve gear.  They cost £2, so that's the end of my allowance for the week.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 6, 2017)

Hi,

I have made a short video of the work done to date.

https://youtu.be/o656lB0tLmU

Regards Tony.


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## django (Jun 15, 2017)

Hi Tony, where do you get your shellac from? Great work by the way :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## Tony Bird (Jun 19, 2017)

Hi,

*Hi Tony, where do you get your shellac from?
*
Sorry for the late reply we have been away for a few days, I get the shellac from a Horological supply company, here in the UK I use cousinsuk.com  it comes in stick form.

Regards Tony.


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## bwal74 (Jun 25, 2017)

Hi Tony,

I love what you did with the old cannon.  And how you recycle/repurpose bits and pieces.

What is the wire cutter? Is it hand held or mechanical?

Cheers Ben.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 25, 2017)

Hi Ben,

*What is the wire cutter? Is it hand held or mechanical?*

I am sorry I don't know what you are referring to, is it in this thread?

Regards Tony.


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## django (Jun 26, 2017)

I think he's referring to your coping saw.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 27, 2017)

Hi,

*I think he's referring to your coping saw.*

Thanks, I see what you mean.  The answer then is: a hand held Piercing Saw also know as a Jeweller's Saw using an 0/3 blade.

Regards Tony.


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## fcheslop (Jun 27, 2017)

Hi Tony, nice work on the new engine
Who do you buy youre piercing saw blades from as Im running out and no longer have accounts with my old suppliers
This maybe of interest to new model makers
https://guildofjewellerydesigners.c...ellery-making-techniques/462-the-piercing-saw
cheers
frazer


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## Tony Bird (Jun 27, 2017)

Hi Frazer,

I get the blades from the same Horological supplier that I get the shellac www.cousinuk.com they take plastic.

Regards Tony.


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## fcheslop (Jun 27, 2017)

Thanks Tony. I made the mistake of buying some that wont cut butter:fan:
cheers


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## smittman (Jul 16, 2017)

Tony, as a newbie to building engines i am inspired by your progress so far. I would rather see a build such as yours than one from a kit . There is a app called Pinterest that has pictures of anything but my wife and i follow steam engine ones, and the best are usually scratch built like yours. Were about done setting up a small shop are are ready to build our first one. Still deciding on what to make first. Your ideas will help future inspirations. Thanks for the posts. Dave and Tammy


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## Tony Bird (Jul 16, 2017)

Hi,

I decided it was time to do a little more on the beam engine so I made a start today.  Nothing has come up that I could make an eccentric from to operate the valve gear so I had to resort to steel stock to make it.





I did find a short length of large hexagonal brass to make the eccentirc sheaf from.





After sawing off a piece it was drilled and bored to take the eccentric made.








This created rather a lot of swarf.





As already mentioned I had spent my whole weekly allowance of £2 on a pair of brass candlesticks, one of which was used for the eccentric rod.





The stem of the candle stick was machined to fit the eccentric sheaf.





The result when attached to the sheaf.





It is now crunch time I have to design some sort of valve gear and I have a maximum of a 20 mm (big 3/4") throw to play with.





So I will have to find a pencil and do some sums after I decide which type of valve gear to use.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 16, 2017)

Hi Tammy and Dave,

*As a newbie to building engines I am inspired by your progress so far. I would rather see a build such as yours than one from a kit . There is a app called Pinterest that has pictures of anything but my wife and I follow steam engine ones, and the best are usually scratch built like yours. Were about done setting up a small shop are are ready to build our first one. Still deciding on what to make first. Your ideas will help future inspirations. Thanks for the posts.
*
I am glad you enjoy my efforts.  I look forward to see what you decide on for your first project.  If I can be of any help please ask

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 17, 2017)

Hi,

The eccentric now has an oil pot and has been fitted to the crankshaft, it has a 16 mm throw.












It will be on hold for a bit as other projects need work; I am also looking for inspiration for what to make a valve chest from.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Jul 17, 2017)

Tony,  again I just love your inspiration and ability to pull it off.  You are a great teacher!  Many thanks for sharing.  I also love your video and photo graphics - that is an art in itself.


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## SilverSanJuan (Jul 17, 2017)

This is an outstanding project.  I love your ability to take all these seemingly unrelated parts and put them together as if they were meant to be.  Good work! :thumbup:


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## Tony Bird (Jul 24, 2017)

Hi,

I am still dithering regarding the type of valve gear to use so move things on I decided to make a start on a simple regulator and a lubricator.  First some holes were drilled in the base board to accommodate them.








As the orientation of the cylinder had been decided on it was fixed in place with four nuts and bolts.





With the cylinder removed an opportunity was taken to enlarge its hole in the baseboard.














A start was then made on the regulator body.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 24, 2017)

Hi again,

I didn't have to do what I thought I had to do so did some more on the regulator.  I hope the photographs show the construction of a fairly standard simple regulator.  The hand wheel was purchase in a craft shop in a packet with many others for a few pounds.




















Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 25, 2017)

Hi,

I have finished the regulator and decided to finish early as the temperature in the shed is pushing 30 C also the property next door is having a bit of an extension!  And today it is dusty as well as noisy.





This morning before starting work on the regulator I had a look through my charity shop purchases for inspiration to build the valve system.  Nothing came of it so it looks as if I will have to use 'new' materials.








If anyone is interested this is the packaging for the hand wheel used you get 6 wheels that can be used and six others I have yet to find a use for.




The remaining parts of the regulator were made and soldered together.

















Perhaps I should explain as I have mention this is a very easy regulator to make especially the sealing of the shaft which is just a piece of stainless steel threaded rod.  The PTFE bush made screws onto the thread and is a slide fit in the nut, when the nut is tightened it compresses the bush completing the seal.  Not my idea a friend told me of it, it gives a smooth seal with no spring back like you some times get using '0' rings, it is self lubricating and is great for R/C use.

The valve fitted to the baseboard.








A similar smaller valve which uses hexagonal rod for its body.





The lubricator next I think.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Jul 26, 2017)

Tony, please forgive my thick skull - but I can't quite see the purpose of stainless threaded rod inside a brass threaded rod. would it be possible for you to post a diagram of the whole valve?  Cymro












9


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## Tony Bird (Jul 26, 2017)

Hi David,

Sketch attached.  The brass threaded part holds the gland nut and is Loctited into the body the stainless steel is threaded through it to plug the hole in the bottom of the valve body.  The PTFE makes a seal on the thread it also works on plain shafts,  using a piece of threaded rod is just simpler.  PTFE being self lubricating makes it a very smooth valve to operate with no spring in it like '0' rings sometimes have, very good for gas valves where close control is needed.  Any further questions please ask

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Jul 27, 2017)

Tony  thank you for your help and patience - the diagram helps a lot.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 27, 2017)

Hi,

I made a start on making a dead leg lubricator, like the regulator it is an easy build. I am not keen on lubricator drains as they can cause a bit of a mess when opened, I prefer to remove the condensed water with a syringe.  To this end the steam pipe is off-set  in the lubricator to give more room for the syringe.





The small hole in the stream pipe was created by filling a curved flat on using a small round file, a gramophone needle was then used to make a small hole.





To check the hole the steam pipe was put in some water and a low pressure compressor (mouth) used to check it.





A base was soldered on the 15 mm cooper pipe of the lubricator and the steam pipe soldered in.  A bracket was made to secure the lubricator and some pipe work made to connect it to the regulator.  The 'T' is soldered to the regulator nipple and the steam pipe, the lubricator pipe is inside the 'T' and sealed outside with a silicon tube.  I find this an effective way of joining low pressure pipes that cannot be seen.








The top of the lubricator needs to be made maybe tomorrow.






Regards Tony.


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## smittman (Jul 28, 2017)

A find my wife made for us to turn into something steam related 2 good posts and 2 wheels she paid 6$ US but i just noticed that its an antique and selling for 100$ us on ebay now do i use it or sell it?  Tony has inspired me so i guess i make it into a steam watch-a-macall-it. Ill post when the build begins.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 29, 2017)

Hi,

*A find my wife made for us to turn into something steam related 2 good posts and 2 wheels she paid 6$ US but I just noticed that its an antique and selling for 100$ us on ebay now do I use it or sell it? Tony has inspired me so I guess I make it into a steam watch-a-macall-it. Ill post when the build begins*.

I look forward to seeing what you make of it.

I didn't achieve a great deal yesterday I didn't get much time in the shed.  It had been suggested that the engine had no means of driving anything other than by its large flywheels.  So I decided to replace one with a small pulley made from a furniture castor, something I have used many times before as the basis of a pulley.  I suspected that the engine will run smoother and slower fitted with two flywheels but you never know, I might end up with a flywheel for another project.  The pulley can always be fitted next to the throw of the crank opposite the eccentric if two flywheels are needed.











Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 29, 2017)

Hi,

The lubricator is finished, The false gland nut under the hand wheel is used to remove the cover.











Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 31, 2017)

Hi,

As no inspiration has come from charity shop bits to make the valve gear I have decided to use conventional material albeit it having a previous life.  It will be a semi-rotary valve which I spent part of the morning sketching.  However before starting on the valve from the charity shop bits I decided to make an steam/oil separator.

I had a ENPS trinket box? Which will be the reservoir.








The  top of a candle snuffer whose handle had been use in the construction of another model was to become the chimney cap.





The remains of the hollow tube from a toasting fork that had been used to make the connecting rod was to become the chimney.





The construction is push together the only bit of note was having to use a 4 jaw chuck to drill the lid of the trinket box as it was eccentric.





The parts put together.





I don't know if it will be used on this engine or another, what do you think?








I did make a start on the valve gear but SWMBO has indicated that food will be on the table in a minute or so and it would be a braver man than me not to be there before it.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 1, 2017)

Hi,

Before I go to the shed I thought I would log the work done on the reversing valve. The connections to the cylinder have been made.





And a block of brass found for the port block unfortunately it had some holes in it from a previous life which had to be filled.











A cup of tea and then the 'Shed'

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 1, 2017)

Tony,  I like the idea for the oil separator, but it all looks busy in the "mounted" photo.  IMHO.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 1, 2017)

Hi David,

*I like the idea for the oil separator, but it all looks busy in the "mounted" photo. IMHO.
*
I tend to agree

The port block of the reversing valve is very nearly finished and the oil separator painted, the photographs show what I did today.




















Looking at the photographs with the oil separator painted I think it looks better but I am still undecided whether it will be fitted. I think it looks better with only one flywheel? But it will depend on how it performs it might needed the two.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 2, 2017)

Tony,  painted the dark colour makes the oil separator less intrusive.  It could work IMHO


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## Tony Bird (Aug 2, 2017)

Hi,

I decided to fit the water/oil separator.







And a little more work has been done on the valve.











Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 3, 2017)

Hi,

The valve is now complete and mounted on a piece of wood when it was assembled.


















It shouldn't be long now before we can see how well it works but we are away for a few days so it will be some time next week.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 6, 2017)

Hi,

We returned early from our break due to poor weather so I have done some more on the engine.  The valve has been fitted to the base board and some pipe work made.









The connections between pipe under the base still have to be made.





In theory after the pipe work it's just fitting the eccentric rod to the valve?

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 7, 2017)

Hi,

The pipe work has been connected up using silicon tube connections over copper pipe.





And the valve gear connected.








The engine runs using both flywheels it is a bit lumpy with only one.  The engine will only run quite fast as their is a lot of friction on the valve as it has to be quite tight not to leak.  I think this is due to there being a large area in the valves curved slots so the pressure has a lot to act on.  So I am going to try and design a valve with less area and make an eccentric with a smaller throw.  I will report results.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 7, 2017)

Tony,  do you have any video of engine running? Cool looking machine and again your inventive imagination comes to the fore...


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## Tony Bird (Aug 8, 2017)

Hi David,

*Tony, do you have any video of engine running? 
*
Alas no; as I mentioned the engine ran but not well and a start was made to try and improve this by stopping the leakage on the valve by reducing the area that the pressure can act on.












The disc was soldered to the valve.








Next the throw of the eccentric will be reduced.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 8, 2017)

Gotcha  Thanks.  Great to watch your technique.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 9, 2017)

Hi,

The eccentric throw has been reduced from 16 mm to 10 mm by plugging the hole and re-drilling when found to be OK it was bushed.









The engine is now finished and running a video to follow.








The next charity shop effort is a bit more mundane fitting a battery powered chassis to a Peppa Pig plastic toy to entertain children on the CMES's garden railway.





I won't bother you with a build log.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 9, 2017)

Hi,

The timing needs adjustment and the paint work needs toughing up but otherwise it is finished.

The video at;

https://youtu.be/HdxYylcL944

Regards Tony.


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## ShopShoe (Aug 9, 2017)

I think that turned out very well. I still think you are the tops at seeing the potential of objects the rest of us walk by everyday.

Thank You for posting,

--ShopShoe


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## SilverSanJuan (Aug 9, 2017)

Really inspiring work, Tony.  Thanks for sharing this project with us.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 9, 2017)

Tony,  
Yet another incredible piece of work.  You should display it at some art show that features mechanical subjects.  Thanks again for sharing your incredible inventive ability.

DW

p.s. would like to see the results of your Peppa Pig project.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 10, 2017)

Hi David,

*p.s. would like to see the results of your Peppa Pig project.*


I'll send you a video when its finished.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 10, 2017)

Hi,

I tweaked the valve timing by making  perspex version of it which showed that the eccentric rod needed to be a little longer which was done.














The engine now has a more even beat.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 10, 2017)

Hi,

I tweaked the valve timing by making  perspex version of it which showed that the eccentric rod needed to be a little longer which was done.














The engine now has a more even beat.

Regards Tony.


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## bazmak (Aug 10, 2017)

Great build,many thanks for sharing.I Too Would Like to see peppa pig


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## Tony Bird (Aug 11, 2017)

Hi,

As two members have expressed interest, though I am not sure it really should be in this forum

A very short video of converting a 50p purchase in a charity shop at;

https://youtu.be/jbEKF8D-8_w

Regards Tony.


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## ShopShoe (Aug 12, 2017)

Tony,

I am glad to see this posted as it provides a way to start conversations with people outside our usual community and encourages people to think outside the box. It provides good public relations at an event like you're showing and will hopefully generate more interest in what you and the rest of us are doing.

I think it always helps to promote the idea that engineers, craftspeople, and modelers can and do use both sides of our brains.

A little bit of whimsey is always welcome as well.

--ShopShoe


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## Cymro77 (Aug 12, 2017)

Tony,  the children should really enjoy the Peppa Pig variation.  It is cool to see other types of models and examples of Model Engineering.


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