# 5 gallon bucket furnace



## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2009)

Cheap and Free Rick is the president of the Metro Detroit Metalworking Club.

A few weeks ago we spent the better part of a Sunday over at C&F Ricks house while some aluminum casting was being performed. Rick was making a few practice pours for a demo he was going to do in Ann Arbor. There was also a brass pour made to practice for a cannon pour that may happen this summer. 

Watching all this go on its hard to do nothing so I grabbed a hot glue gun, some foam, and Dons hot wire cutter and cut out a fictional engine block. With Ricks guidance the foam was coated in popcorn ceiling/stucco material with the foam balls sifted out. After the coating, the foam was sprinkled in common beach sand and dried with a heat gun to speed things up. The foam was then buried in a bucket of sand and molten aluminum was poured onto the foam and the block was cast. Seeing the results I knew that I would need to build a furnace of my own.


Right away I started to gather materials. By the end of the week I had gathered or made all of the things in this photo. The metal 5 gallon bucket, the sheet metal for the lid, my burner tube, the crucible, 2 stainless steel pressure heads, and 3 ingot molds


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2009)

My lid was made from some 4 inch wide sheet metal that was rolled to a 12 inch diameter. There are 2 cheap handles screwed to it. The handles required some field modification to get them to fit the diameter. The center was formed with a 6 inch long piece of 4 inch PVC pipe. The pipe was covered with 3 layers of aluminum foil. I screwed the handles on using 1-1/4 inch long screws. I also put some extra screws in to pin the refractory into the sheet metal.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2009)

The center of the furnace was formed with a 2 foot long piece of 6 inch PVC pipe. This pipe also was wrapped with 3 layers of aluminum foil. I also drilled 2, ½ inch holes 10-1/2 inches from the bottom of the pipe, so a ½ inch rod could be slid thru the center of the pipe. This rod will hold the pipe 3 inches off the bottom of the bucket when set in. Sorry about no photo of the rod in action.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2009)

Next a 1-1/8 inch hole was drilled 4 inches from the bottom of the bucket to insert the burner tube. The hole was made on an angle so when the tube is inserted it would just touch the wall inside the 6 inch PVC.

The PVC is drilled at 1 inch from the bottom with the same angle. I just eyeballed the entire thing, nothing fancy about it.

With a piece of burner tube inserted, the walls of the pipe were touching and the 6 inch was centered in the bucket. The flame will swirl around the crucible instead of blasting right at it.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2009)

Next the refractory was mixed up. I was told to make a dry mix by the fellow who sold it. Dont mix it wet like concrete because there is a chemical binder that will separate with to much water. It is hard to explain but the refractory when mixed was like shaved ice. If it was poked with a stick it would make a hole and stay that way. When I put it in the bucket it just plopped in but if I shook the bucket hard enough it almost went liquid and self leveled. 

After marking the inside of the bucket with a depth mark, I put a 3 inch layer of refractory in the bucket. Then the ½ inch rod was inserted thru the 6 inch pipe and the PVC was hung in the bucket. Then the bucket was filled and shaken slowly. As I shook the bucket the refractory wanted to creep up the center of the PVC pipe. Maybe I should have foiled the end of the pipe to keep the refractory down.


After the bucket was full a garbage bag was laid out and the lid was also poured. After about 15 minutes, the rod was slid out, and the 6 inch could support itself. Then it was possible to reach down thru the 6 inch pipe and clean out the refractory that worked it way up the center. Also the top will have a divot from the ½ inch rod. That divot needs to be smoothed out at this stage. At this point I pushed a 3/8 bolt into the lid to act as a pivot point for a lid. As it dried, the burner nipple was rotated every so often to keep it from becoming trapped. 

NOTE: This whole thing required 2-55# bags of refractory and almost used it all.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2009)

After 3 days cure time the PVC pipe was cut with a saw creating a slot from top to bottom. The width of the saw blade was enough to allow the pipe to collapse in and slip right out leaving an aluminum foil layer in the refractory.

The bucket was worked the same way. There were 4 slots cut but the bottom could not be reached with the saw due to the refractory back draft. With the 4 slots I was able to slip the PVC up about ½ inch allowing access to the bottom. One of the cuts was extended thru the bottom and the PVC slipped right out.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2009)

The furnace is now ready for first fire. I am going to wait a few more days and fire it up. The furnace will be lit with as low a flame possible and then slowly increased over hours until full temperature is achieved. I might even wire brush the lid and put some barbeque paint on it.

The burner was made using plans for a burner from http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oliverburner1.html

The propane regulator and hose setup was recycled from an old torch from work that was no longer fit for service. There was a problem when the furnace was lit and the burner ran extremely rich. After trying 2 other designs, the right burner for my regulator ended up being a variation with (4) 5/16 holes instead of the (6) 3/8 holes, and in the cross tube, a #75 (.021) hole was used instead of the #57 (.043). I am not exactly sure why this combination works and the supplied design did not. I suspect the output pressure may be higher on the regulator that I had but I have no way to confirm that.


After the burner problems were worked out, the furnace was lit and brought to temperature slowly over 2 to 3 hours. This was done to chase the moisture out of the refractory slowly to avoid cracking. I now have the equipment to do some casting of aluminum. Now I need to do some reading and practice pours to acquire the skill to make first class castings.


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## PTsideshow (Jun 27, 2009)

Rick had a standing room only crowd for his demo at NAMES last show he was looking down at what he was doing. And when he looked up there was about 250 or better people standing on the dock and in the truck wells. Boy was he surprised  :big: was a great demo and a pretty good casting set Rick has for smaller items.

Great looking furnace Steve.
glen


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 27, 2009)

PTsideshow  said:
			
		

> Rick had a standing room only crowd for his demo at NAMES last show he was looking down at what he was doing. And when he looked up there was about 250 or better people standing on the dock and in the truck wells. Boy was he surprised  :big: was a great demo and a pretty good casting set Rick has for smaller items.
> 
> Great looking furnace Steve.
> glen



He was quite shocked. I think he expected about 75 - 100 people. That goofy pattern that goes every wich way turned out really nice.


This furnace is just like ricks except i could'nt find the light weight refractory so mine is heavier. I think my burner might work better than his, I still need to do some testing.


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## xlchainsaw (Jul 19, 2009)

it looks as if you are off to a great start. after you get going you will be asking yourself.... why has it taken me so long to get around to doing casting???? the thing im just starting to enjoy is casting my own brass lathe stock!! what a short peice of round or square ...cast it! you do need a four jaw chuck as round bar comes out outa round but .... its cheap! one old garden tap equals... flywheels and six inches of 5/8 round bar.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 19, 2009)

I'll be going over Rick's today. I'm going to take my burner and crucibles. I will be testing the burner to see if it will melt metal or just make alot of noise.


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## xlchainsaw (Jul 20, 2009)

i think you will be pleasantly surprised. start with aluminium first.dont try brass till you get plenty of practise at molding.pick easy projects to start with.it takes about 20 to 30 melts and pours to start with to get in the swing of things. if you have access to someone who can give some "hands on" advice then it will be much quicker. i was lucky ....not far from here there is a "display foundry" set up so the public can view the guys molding and casting. so i did plenty of industrial spying.


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## Metal Mickey (Oct 23, 2009)

Steve, just seen this post as I was adding my own. How are you getting on with it? Also the foam for patterns, is it a special product?

Hope the engine builds are going well. Mike


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## Artie (Oct 23, 2009)

Steve, Ive also just seen this thread, well done mate. Im certain you wont regret it. Ive had my foundry for over 25 years and Ive thoroughly enjoyed the experiences it has allowed me.

Well done.

Rob


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## stevehuckss396 (Oct 24, 2009)

Thanks Mickie and Artie. I have finished building a 3 axis CNC mill and have been using it to cut foam patterns. So far the biggest problems have been holes in the castings. Need to try degassing the metal. Not sure what that means exactly!


Mickey, send me an email so i can get your email address again. I had a fatal hard drive failure and lost all my addresses. Include a link to the website so i can get that in my favorites again.


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## xlchainsaw (Nov 22, 2009)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> Thanks Mickie and Artie. I have finished building a 3 axis CNC mill and have been using it to cut foam patterns. So far the biggest problems have been holes in the castings. Need to try degassing the metal. Not sure what that means exactly!
> 
> 
> Mickey, send me an email so i can get your email address again. I had a fatal hard drive failure and lost all my addresses. Include a link to the website so i can get that in my favorites again.


im not sure if your holes are from the metal. i would say most likely from gas from the foam burning. some use acetone to "burnout" the foam before pouring and report better success.


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## Artie (Nov 22, 2009)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> Thanks Mickie and Artie. I have finished building a 3 axis CNC mill and have been using it to cut foam patterns. So far the biggest problems have been holes in the castings. Need to try degassing the metal. Not sure what that means exactly!
> 
> 
> Mickey, send me an email so i can get your email address again. I had a fatal hard drive failure and lost all my addresses. Include a link to the website so i can get that in my favorites again.



Stevem degassing should be done as a matter of course for each pour and simply consists of tipping a table spoon of sea salt into the crucible and stirring it in before you pour the molten metal . Actually there is a heap more to it, but thats the abridged version.

Your crucible of molten metal is creating gas as the melting process occurs, a natural reaction, one which I choose to reduce by ingotting all my metal, rather than using scrap to make my final pour I make ingots from the scrap and take my time removing impurities as I go. You have more 'time' when you are only making ingots I find.

Good luck mate.

Artie


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## xlchainsaw (Nov 22, 2009)

i agree with artie you should never just melt scrap aluminium and pour it to a final cast unless its a big bulky item. i cast my "flasks" straight from scrap and it didnt matter if they turned out rough. when i started i didnt know anyone to ask. i started with drink cans....lots of dross.... somethings turned out and some didnt.???? anyway upon remelting my failures i found that the more the failures were remelted ....i started to get success !!!....i thought i had just the hang of things..... until i ran out of metal..... melted some scrap and failure upon failure occurred. then success upon success!!!?????? i made contact with other casters and they reported the same. so standard practise is to "pig" the metal several times and "grade" your castings and metal ie... rough to fine (for the casting) i "save " my sprues and left overs for fine casting.


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 22, 2009)

Thanks for all the tips. I am trying to get caught up on stuff so i can cast some things.


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## kadora (Aug 19, 2013)

Hello stevehuckss396
Could you explain me what are the 2 stainless steel pressure heads
 for ?
I would like to build a kiln according your advices but the task of pressure heads is unknown to me.
Thank you


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## gus (Aug 19, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I'll be going over Rick's today. I'm going to take my burner and crucibles. I will be testing the burner to see if it will melt metal or just make alot of noise.



Hi Steve,

Should have enough heat to melt a small charge. At most a wee bit slower.
The refractory looks good and wall thichness more than ample. Torch entry is tangential to avoid direct heat.

I used fire bricks as refractory for the 50 pounder capacity cast iron pot to gravity cast Auto Compressed Air Condensate Traps for a big compressor order. Champion refused to sell us trap. Went to Bangkok,Thailand and bought one from their innocent dealer who made a fat margin. Both parties parted happily. He got his money and Gus got the Champion Trap to copy.

Plan to make my own 0ne gallon size furnace. Anything bigger would burn down the balcony machineshop and flat.
Please advise The Brand and description of Castable Refractory. Gus knows nothing on castables.

Please post castings poured with your furnace.

Gus from faraway Singapore.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 19, 2013)

kadora said:


> Hello stevehuckss396
> Could you explain me what are the 2 stainless steel pressure heads
> for ?




The pressure heads are used when doing lost foam casting into "sandbox" sand. They are used right at the top of the pattern to create a pool of molton metal to keep feeding the pattern as it cools.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 19, 2013)

gus said:


> Hi Steve,
> 
> 
> Please advise The Brand and description of Castable Refractory. Gus knows nothing on castables.
> ...





Hello Gus!

I cant remember what I used. I bought it from a local supplier. There are a few different types. There is a light weight and the heavy stuff like I have. Weight meant nothing to me as I just wheel it around the garage on a small cart.

Super charger housing was cast at a model engine show.







If you look on the table you can see the raw casting that is a pair of housings. The pattern is peeking out from behind the engine. The pattern is maple. The pattern was rammed up in petrobond and cast outside of the building.


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## Davewild (Aug 19, 2013)

Hi Steve

I just finished watching about 30 video's posted on utube by Myfordboy all about casting he makes it look so easy, he says never to use any aluminium that has not be cast before, if fact that is all he uses is scrap cast alloy, he also adds a spoonful of salt as a flux and a spoonful of washing soda as a de-gasser, if you have time I think it is well worth watching, good luck and I will be following along.

Regards
Dave


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## kadora (Aug 20, 2013)

stevehuckss396 thank you Now it is clear.


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## kadora (Aug 28, 2013)

Hello stevehuckss396
You wrote -- There was a problem when the furnace was lit and the burner ran extremely rich.
How you know if the flame is RICH ? Is there a way how to see it ?
Thank you


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