# My Modified Build of Elmer's #3 O.C.R.



## Metal Butcher (Mar 14, 2009)

Oh no, not another build of Elmer's #3 O.C. with Reverse! The members that have been following the Team Builds are probably racing for the back button. But wait, this is a modified version. It's 50% larger and the valve/bearing block is reversed. To add some visual interest the cylinder and columns are made from hexagonal bar stock. The bearing block is bronze bushed for durability. A little additional length was added to the base to make room for the valve lever. Since I like cylinder heads, I added one for cosmetic reasons. The bore is now 9/16 inch and the stroke is 3/4 inch. I'm trying ideas and making changes as the build progresses, similar to the way a sky scraper is built. 
Below is a photo of the roughed in parts I did over the last 2 days.

"It won't be long now!", said the butcher, as he sliced off a thick piece. ;D

MB


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## seagar (Mar 14, 2009)

I for one am very interested in following your build,so please keep up the good work.

Ian.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 14, 2009)

I have'nt been around very long so I dont know what Elmers #3 looks like. Do it for us new guys!!


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 14, 2009)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> I have'nt been around very long so I dont know what Elmers #3 looks like. Do it for us new guys!!



It is TB-1 in Team Builds.

Here is a link to the plans: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Elmers_Engines_1/files/


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## 4156df (Mar 14, 2009)

MB,

Please take us along for the build. Lots of pictures, please. It seems I learn something from every build.

Thanks,
Dennis


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## cfellows (Mar 14, 2009)

Hey MB,

Glad to see your post. I've been contemplating one like this for the past couple of days. I've been feeling the need to complete a project and simpler engine seems like the answer.

I am going for a 1/2" bore and plan to incorporate my slave exhaust valve in the head to give it a bit more bark when it's running.

This is also good practice for my CAD skills using Alibre.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 14, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Hey MB,
> 
> Glad to see your post. I've been contemplating one like this for the past couple of days. I've been feeling the need to complete a project and simpler engine seems like the answer.
> Chuck



I'm feeling a little burned out after 29 builds, and now with this flu bug I have, an easy build was needed just to keep me moving forward. This model with its up sizing and cosmetic changes is not at all difficult or time consuming. 

MB


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 15, 2009)

The 1 inch crank disc was faced and bored .250" in the lathe and then cut off at 1/4". A flat piece of scrap was mounted in the mill/drill. After a zeroing out it was drilled and tapped for a 1/4" hold down bolt. With the disc bolted face down, the table was shifted 3/8" and the disc was drilled #44 and reamed 3/32". After a 3/32" pin was installed (using removable contact cement) the profile was milled using this same set-up. The photo was staged after the fact. 




Using a spin fixture one pair of opposing 1/2" flats was milled on a 3/8" brass bar leaving it 1/4" thick for the crank pin end. In this set-up the 1/8" crank pin and 3/32" wrist pin holes were drilled and reamed on center at 1-1/2". Then a simple profile was turned using the tail stock center in the lathe. This was eye-ball work to suite. The tiny bit left at the piston/tail stock end was removed with an Exacto saw after the cut off on the crank pin end, closest to the chuck. It could be sawed off in the lathe prior to parting off.




This photo shows the 9/16" x 9/16" piston with a central 3/16" wrist pin hole already reamed. The crank disc and piston rod are shown after a little file and sand paper clean up. 




That's all for now. MB


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 15, 2009)

Hey MB, nice work :bow: I'm with the other posters - keep it going...it's interesting and I'm learning stuff too ;D I like the profile you put on the crank.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 15, 2009)

Since "Honey" is busy and doesn't want my company I decided to do one more post and machine the valve.
I decided that 1 inch diameter would go well with the larger 1-1/8 raised valve area on the bearing block. I faced and beveled the outer surfaces in the lathe. After drilling and reaming the 1/8 through pivot hole a ¼ center cutting end mill was used to cut the recess .156 deep for the spring. Then I cut the valve disc off at 1/4 inch thick. 
I clamped it standing up in the vise of the M/D, zeroed out, and centrally drilled the 3/32 lever hole .200 deep. This needs to be done before drilling/milling the passages since it is used for locating the 4 drilled starter holes and for rotating the valve during milling. After a simple jig is drilled and tapped for a 5-40 hold down screw and a guide line scribed at 45 degrees the disc is bolted with the faced side down and tight. A drill bit was inserted in the lever hole and directly in line with the scribed guide line. Then the 4 holes are drilled .062 deep .250 off center to match the pattern used on the bearing block. I use the thickness of a feeler gauge added to the proposed depth of hole to get all the holes drilled the same using my simple quill mounted 1 inch dial indicator. 
You can see the scribed guide line just below the drill bit in the photo.




For the channel milling the screw is loosened just enough to allow the valve to rotate. During assembly I put some rubber cement on the screw to restrict movement. One layer of paper was placed between the valve and jig to prevent its finished face surface from being scratched. A 3/32 end mill is lowered about .020 into a starter hole to begin the milling. I rotated the valve slowly since the work piece is hand held. The milling is really simple and easy to do.




Modified Valve Specs:
1 in diameter ¼ thick
1/8 pivot hole (the bearing block is tapped for 5-40)
3/32 lever hole and port channel width.
¼ Spring recess .156 deep
Spring I will use is, .240 diameter, .032 wire diameter, .500 long-Enco #240-0575
-MB


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## Maryak (Mar 15, 2009)

MB,

I am enjoying your style and technique. :bow:

Following along with much interest.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 16, 2009)

Today I'm making the crank shaft which acts as the valve. To begin I cut an over size length of .250" round shaft. To locate the 3 flats that will be milled, the valve block port locations were measured starting from the very front of the block, and then lines were scribed on the shaft. Prior to this I decided 1/2 inch of the shaft would be proud of the front to act as an out put for a drive pulley if desired. To simplify the scribing a brass bushing was clamped at the 1/2" starting point. The lines for the 1st flat were scribed at 1-5/8" to 2" and the 2nd flat at 1-7/8" to 2-1/4". The 3rd flat for the crank disc set screw was scribed at 1/4" from the proposed shaft end that will be flush on the crank disc. The excess was trimmed and its length rechecked again. The final total length is 3.740".




The shaft was set up in the spin index for milling. This is an easy eye ball job that will produce accuracy of plus or minus .010 or less. Since the surface finish of the flats doesn't matter I used a well worn 1/4" end mill. All the first cuts were centered between the lines and subsequent cuts were carefully advanced to the scribed lines. The depth of the cut was set at .032". The index was 0 and 18 for the 2 overlapping port flats on opposite sides, and 27 for the crank disc set screw flat at the end of the shaft. Measurements show that a 15/32 spacer will be needed between the crank disc and bearing block due to the base being 1/2" longer than the 50% up scaling of the other parts.




This photo shows the milling process complete.




This is a photo of my low tech DRO (Dial Read Out), it gets the job done well enough.





-MB


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## ksouers (Mar 16, 2009)

MB,
Very nice work. I like your dial indicator set up, too.

Don't knock the lowly dial indicator. It is probably the most versatile measuring device in my shop. I have several, for many years it was my ONLY means to accurately measure table and head movement on my mill. Though the DRO is nice, there are times I still prefer using an indicator. I use them exclusively on the lathe.


Kevin


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 16, 2009)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> MB,
> Very nice work. I like your dial indicator set up, too.
> 
> Don't knock the lowly dial indicator. It is probably the most versatile measuring device in my shop. I have several, for many years it was my ONLY means to accurately measure table and head movement on my mill. Though the DRO is nice, there are times I still prefer using an indicator. I use them exclusively on the lathe.
> ...


No, no, I'm not knocking the dial indicator or my set up. Its the difference between being lost, and knowing exactly where I'm going with the quill movement.
I use the calibrated hand wheel dials for table moves, and that works well to. To avoid the occasional mistake when counting turns I rough scribe the work piece using a so-so set of dial calipers. This occasionally shows up a gross counting error to save the day. On my 9x20 lathe I have 2 dial indicators pushed by adjustable rods.This set up can produce one precision part after another. Before these simple improvements my work was so bad that I just about gave up.
Now when make a mistake its my fault, so I just shrug it off, try harder, and produce a satisfactory part.

Have you seen my post- My new drill bit finds a home? :big:

Link to a picture of my lathe set up:http: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Elmer...ode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc 

-MB


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## rake60 (Mar 16, 2009)

Great thread Metal Butcher!

I'm loving your approach to machining the parts for the Open Column. 
Looking forward to the next installment.

Rick


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## cfellows (Mar 17, 2009)

Hey MB,

I see you have the same mill/drill that I have. I bought mine from Enco about 15 years or so ago. Gonna have to make that analog "DRO" like yours. How did you fasten the Dial Indicator to the Mill?

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 17, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Hey MB,
> 
> I see you have the same mill/drill that I have. I bought mine from Enco about 15 years or so ago. Gonna have to make that analog "DRO" like yours. How did you fasten the Dial Indicator to the Mill?
> 
> Chuck



Hi. The swing bracket was attached to the 2 lower existing holes holding the builders plate by hand drilling and tapping for slightly larger SAE cap screws, number 6 screw I believe.
I made a new threaded depth stop screw with the top 5/8" machined down to .375. A rectangular block 5/8" x 5/8" x1-1/2 long was reamed 3/8' through the top of one end, and the other end was milled out from the front as far back as I could go without running into the vertical hole. The milling was just wide enough for a tight fit on the indicators lug. After a proper locating a cross hole was clearance drilled through one side (Slotted end), and the other side was drilled and tapped 1/4-28 for a bolt which goes through the block and the indicators lug hole. Tightening the bolt compresses the milled end slightly and clamps the indicator snug in the block.

After a few attempts at milling with the way the quill droped, and the useless calibrated spider handle dial, something needed to be done. I saw the basic idea in a book (somewhere?) and adapted it to my mill.

I just can't imagine how anyone could deal with this problem! With out this set up the depth of a simple blind hole was a nightmare, and milling a piece to proper thickness nearly impossible!

-MB

Edit: The indicator bracket is held on the 3/8 end of the quill depth stop screw using a 6-32 set screw.

This really simple set up works great! If anyone needs any more info then just ask!


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 17, 2009)

On Elmer's plans, the transfer of air/steam is accomplished using a copper tube between the valve/bearing block and the cylinder. My modification eliminates the bending and soldering required by Elmers original plans. I decided to use 3/16" model pipe connecting the cylinder and bearing block. Although there are other ways to accomplish the connection, I decided to use a simple adjustable union. I made round unions in the past that worked well on other builds. Then the idea of continuing the hexagonal theme by incorporating it in the design of the union came to mind.

The picture below shows one half of the union being cut off on the lathe after the first machining steps were completed.






I used a larger piece of a hex with a central spigot tapped 10-40 to index the parts during the drilling and tapping. Since the parts themselves are a hex their mounting needed to be parallel with the indexing block. To line up the parts with the block, a parallel was held against the part while it was rotated into position lining it up with the front jaw on the vise. Blue Locktite was used to eliminate the possibility of the part moving. This line up method proved simple and effective.

 To eliminate the possibility of the tap breaking, the drill chuck was held very slightly open to guide the tap. I used what I call a "Tapping Disc" (knurled aluminum disc with a set screw to hold the tap) to the rotate the tap. I have not yet broken a tap using one of these discs. I have snapped plenty of 4-40 taps using a tap wrench or by jogging the power switch. You would think one would have been enough! ;D

The photo below shows one union half being drilled prior to tapping.
The other half was clearance drilled for the screws.






I usually rough draw a part and attach it with a magnet to the machine I'm using. Later when the part is finished the drawing goes in the rubbish. After a few days I can't understand my own gibberish anyway! I hope someone out there can understand the picture below.
EDIT: The diameter of a round union should be .575" using the bolt spread and the spigot diameter in my drawing. The older round union is a smaller bolt circle with a very thin threaded spigot wall. 






4) This last shot shows an earlier round union and the two hex unions I made today. This build requires only one union, I got carried away and made two.
I should have filed and sanded the stock prior to machining. After cleaning up one union (shown in pic) my fingers said... no more! 






-MB


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## 4156df (Mar 17, 2009)

MB,

This is a very informative and useful thread. Thanks for sharing, and please keep it up!!

Dennis


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 18, 2009)

Today I'll make the final parts needed to complete my modified version of Elmers engine. The reversing valve handle was made from 3/32" drill rod and then I added a simple brass knob turned and drilled in the lathe. I used a piece of slightly protruding #44 rod inserted into one port hole of the bearing block and then installed the valve. It was rotated back and forth to get the proper location for the two 1/16" valve stop pins. The 1/16" stop pin holes were drilled .189 deep into the bearing block. These pins will be held in place with Locktite applied during the final assembly.





The 3/16" model pipe was cut to length using measurements taken on the partly assembled motor. The ends were threaded in the lathe using a 3/16-40 die. Two pieces of 3/16 pipe 5/8" long were threaded on only one end. They will be used as the intake pipe and the exhaust pipe. The bend in the piping is accomplished with a threaded 90 degree cast bronze elbow. Later in the day I will make a thick gasket for the piping flange and also the cylinder head.





With the build nearing its end the wood base needed to be made. I used a 1/2" thick piece of walnut and I cut it to size with a powered miter saw and used a router to profile the edge. After the three bolt holes were drilled the first coat of Tru-Oil was applied.

This is my first year using a powered miter saw and router. In the past my wooden bases were hand made using a hack saw and disc sander!




-MB


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## cfellows (Mar 18, 2009)

Lookin good, MB, hope mine turns out half as nice!

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 19, 2009)

I finished the cylinder head and pipe flange by making their gaskets. In the past I tried using scissors to cut gaskets that were traced or marked out with dividers. I also attempted to use commercial punches and none or these methods gave me good results. A quick but simple idea came to mind while rushing to finish a build. Using spray adhesive I glued a piece of gasket to the bottom of a round cylinder and trimmed of the excess with an Exacto knife. It worked like a charm and the trimmed edge was as good as it gets. The bolt holes were next, but trying to trim them out with the same knife was making a mess of the gasket. While trying to think of a method a simple solution became apparent. A punch with a matching die would do the trick. The photo below shows the method I have been using ever since.
I drill the exact size clearance hole used on the cylinder head in a piece of scrap and machined a pin to the same dimension minus about .002". Then using the M/D quill movement, I simply punch and turn, punch and turn, until all the holes are done. This method works with gasket paper and Teflon sheet. 






To make the flywheel I had to use the only piece of brass on hand that was close to the correct size. This turned out to be a 1-1/2" piece of hex. Since the original plans called for a round plain drum style flywheel the hex would need to be machined down to my planned 1-3/8" size and then cut off. Since I was starting out with a hex that would self index, the addition of a visual dimension became apparent by simply adding six holes to the basic flywheel design. A process I laughingly refer to as "Swiss Cheesing." The hex was faced and turned to dimension along with a 7/16 hub protruding .050", and the 1/4" crank shaft hole was center drilled,drilled, and reamed. Then when the cut off on the opposite end came close to the hub dimension, I stopped leaving the flywheel attached to what was left of the hex. The photo below shows this stop point.





After setting up a vise stop and clamping the hex in the vise, the head of the M/D was centered on it, and then the hand wheels were zeroed out. I eye balled a nice offset for the first hole at .410" off center. Then I center drilled the 6 locations by indexing the hex and followed by drilling them 19/64". To minimize the tedious and often overlooked finishing of the holes I used a .312" (3/8") reamer. The picture below shows the start of the drilling operation. The flywheel was returned to the lathe for cut off. Then after a protective double layer of tape was wrapped on the outside diameter of the flywheel, the facing and addition of the 7/16" hub was completed on the cut-off side.The photo below shows the center drilling complete and the first hole drilled.





To drill and tap the flywheel for a 6-32 set screw I used the quick and simple eye ball method. After the decorative hole and the crankshaft hole were lined up using a drill bit from the front. Then the center of the flywheel along its length was located by the traditional method of moving the spindle back to center line 1/2 of the flywheels length. The flywheel was removed from its setup for a final cleanup. I used a ¼ and 5/16 hand reamer to remove any burs caused by the drilling and tapping. The picture below shows the line-up process.




-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 20, 2009)

Late last night I finished all the machine work and I did a quick assembly of the engine for a test run to see that all was well. My heart sank when the engine refused to do anything but leak air. I pulled the head off and rotated the flywheel to find that there wasn't any air coming from the port at the top of the cylinder! I was getting frustrated, how could I have blotched up the valve this badly? I started thinking that maybe I didn't finish drilling a valve hole but then I recalled checking and cleaning each one. 

There was nothing more to do except start taking the engine apart. When I split the union and rotated the upper half I found the problem. My flange gasket was missing a central air hole! Apparently I overlooked adding the central hole when the six bolt holes were punched. After a good laugh I modified the flange gasket and finished up the assembly. 

After I pressurized it with 5 pounds of air it started on its own. After a few minutes the pressure was lowered to 2 pounds to test the reversing valve, and it ran equally well, and at the same speed in forward and reverse. I tried switching the air line between the two available ports and they worked equally well. This would allow me to face the reverse valve during demonstrations, with the fly wheel on my right, and the airline plugged in from behind. 

Today I did all of the file work and sanding. I decided to use a 220 grit sandpaper finish on the aluminum and 600 on the cylinder and columns. To protect all the parts from tarnish they received an automotive surface sealant ("poly" type sealant.)

Below are the final pictures of my modified version of Elmer's #3 Open Column with Reverse. I hope you enjoyed my build, as much as I enjoyed sharing it with you.




















-MB


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## BMyers (Mar 20, 2009)

Nice work MB. I have yet to be able to build an Elmer engine. Too tiny for me. Looks like a POM nominee to me !
I am impressed  :bow:


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 20, 2009)

BMyers  said:
			
		

> Nice work MB. I have yet to be able to build an Elmer engine. Too tiny for me. Looks like a POM nominee to me !
> 
> I am impressed :bow:



Thanks!

I know what you mean about being a bit to small. The #3 Open Column with Reverse is a little easier than some. I built it 50 percent larger to fit in with other engines in my collection.

Take a look at Elmer's H-Quad, Its a much larger (already up sized) model than most, and its easy to build. Its also a really good running design with a reverse valve. 

-MB


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## deere_x475guy (Mar 20, 2009)

Very nice job MB...when do we see a video of it running?


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## rake60 (Mar 20, 2009)

Nice build!

Rick


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 20, 2009)

deere_x475guy  said:
			
		

> Very nice job MB...when do we see a video of it running?



Thanks! Video? sorry but I don't have a camera or know how to upload.
I get help with the still pictures like the ones posted today.

-MB


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## cfellows (Mar 20, 2009)

First rate, MB! :bow: Nice looking engine.

Chuck


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## 4156df (Mar 20, 2009)

MB,
Very nice looking engine. Nice idea with the flywheel.
Dennis


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## Shopguy (Mar 21, 2009)

Very very nice. I like the use of hex stock for columns and cylinder block. :bow:
Ernie J


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