# Not so easy EZ engine



## xr6t (Jan 15, 2010)

Hi everyone.

Started getting my act together for the build of an EZ Engine.

Gathering the materials in itself has proved to be very challenging.

Most sizes have been unattainable here in Hobart, the model shops do not sell anything and the metal merchants have limited stock and are basically not interested in such small quantities.

Cutting 2"x1" alloy to 1" x 1""with an angle grinder has been somwhat interesting.

The oversize rod is OK, this will give me the chance to try my hand at reducing. Remember I am a complete novice

Tools are also proving to be a challenge, conssidering I just bought the lathe (9x20) three week ago and had no idea about "tooling" I find that I now have to purchase things like "tool holders" "parting tools" "reamers" "hss tool blanks" "measuring stuff' etc.

The project so far:-


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## xr6t (Jan 15, 2010)

Photos have not come out, will try again.


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## tel (Jan 15, 2010)

G'day xr6t - in a word - Oztion, George Vesely (Offcuts Galore) usually has a good range of most stuff listed.


http://www.oztion.com.au/Business/Industrial/Metal/auctions/490.aspx

All that other stuff will come with time mate, just add things as you need 'em.


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## black85vette (Jan 15, 2010)

xr6t  said:
			
		

> Hi everyone.
> 
> Started getting my act together for the build of an EZ Engine.
> 
> ...



If you can't find things locally then buying from an on-line company is a good option. They sell in small quantities. You pay a little extra but don't have to buy larger pieces.

Might be better to cut the piece with a hacksaw than an angle grinder. Less work after the cut to get it cleaned up.

Tools can be bought as you need them. Get a set of basic cutting tools and some blanks so you can make specialized tools. Ask questions here about the kinds of tools and where to look for them so you get the most for your money.

What other tools do you have? Drill press? Grinder?

Also: if you can get some scrap stock cheap spend some time getting comfortable with your lathe before you start cutting actual engine parts.


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## xr6t (Jan 18, 2010)

Well I'm still at it and the mistakes are coming thick and fast, all good fun though and I am learning heaps.

What looked like an easy job is proving to be a jig saw puzzle.

The lathe threw a whammy a couple of days ago, looked like the 4th July, not quite sure at this point in time what went wrong other than a dead lathe. The agents are sending me another printed circuit board to install and hopefully I will back on the job again.

Your not wrong about hacksawing instead of cutting with a grinder. I thought that grinding it would give me the chance to size it in the 4 jaw chuck, and it did, but it was during this process that the lathe died. I am sure it was not because of this though.

See photos.

As for what gear do I have.

Drill press, hand drills and 5" grinder. Various hand tools.

After today I now have QCTP, live centre, digital calipers, dial indicator, 6x5/16" hss tool blanks, countersinks.

Will place another order in aagain now that I have some idea what is required, any suggestions welcome. Still shooting in the dark.

Cheers

KenM


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 23, 2010)

Nice looking lathe.

As far as what else to get...it looks like you're in good shape. I could only come up with...(and you probably already thought it)...taps.

Looking forward to seeing more. Ever since the EZ engine was introduced I've been interested in seeing what people do with it.


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## Deanofid (Jan 23, 2010)

Sorry to hear about the lathe troubles, Ken. 
Just by way of encouragement, what you have there for a lathe will do you well for lots of projects, as far as its capacity and size are concerned. Sometimes electrics are a problem, (for anything that plugs into a socket, not particular to your lathe!).

Hope you get 'er fixed up soon. Keep an eye on that four jaw.
Ask as many questions as you can think up!

Dean


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## kvom (Jan 24, 2010)

There's another Tasmanian on the board 'penguingeoff'. Perhaps he can help you out as needed.


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## xr6t (Jan 27, 2010)

Hi All,

Back in action again after the agent supplied a new circuit board. Speed range has now improved to 50-2220rpm.

I have finished the body of the EZ, done the flywheel and piston, had two attempts at the valve in mild steel but each time it breaks off at the jaws?? when reducing the shaft size to .125

Finding the drawings somewhat confusing.

KenM


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## black85vette (Jan 27, 2010)

xr6t  said:
			
		

> Hi All,
> 
> Back in action again after the agent supplied a new circuit board. Speed range has now improved to 50-2220rpm.
> 
> ...



Glad to hear you are back in action.  

How far out from the chuck are you cutting when doing the valve? If it continues to be an issue run the part with a live center in the tail stock to prevent stressing it at the chuck.

If you have a question on the drawings just ask.


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## xr6t (Jan 28, 2010)

:Thanks, I gave the live centre a thought, but was not confident with my ability to use it on such a small diameter part.

Each time the valve broke off it was very close to the jaws, the protruding part of the valve that I had already machined seemed to get up a wobble, signifying a balance problem, the break. At first I thought it may have been poor quality material, but I have now tried two different pieces.

Will keep on trying, I have included a couple of photos, one of where I am up to and the other of the broken valves.

Cheers

KenM


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## black85vette (Jan 28, 2010)

It should not take too much pressure to cut the valve. Be sure the cutter is sharp and try lighter cuts also.

What you have already made is looking good. Nice progress so far.


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## SAM in LA (Jan 28, 2010)

Make sure that your parting tools tip is inline with the parts axis and perpendicular to it too.


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## Debian (Jan 28, 2010)

Excuse me if I'm a little off topic, btw, You spoke about drill press, if a vertical mill is owned, is really so important to have also a drill press? maybe is better to use the mill for all the milling operation (involving lateral cutting) and the drill press for tap and general holes that doesn't really need a centesimal precision? thank You. I'll hope soon I'll buy the mill, so would like to know if I'd would also plan to buy a drill press!

Paolo


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## black85vette (Jan 28, 2010)

Debian  said:
			
		

> , if a vertical mill is owned, is really so important to have also a drill press?



If you have a mill you can get by without the drill press. But it is nice to have the drill press so you don't have to disturb your setup on the mill just to drill a hole.  I have mine side by side.


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## xr6t (Jan 28, 2010)

;D Thanks for the tips, will give it another go over the week-end.

Cheers


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## Deanofid (Jan 28, 2010)

There are a few things that could be causing the trouble with the valve bending/breaking.

If your tool tip is a little low, it will make the work want to climb up over the top of the tool, bending the piece, or breaking it off.

If the tool tip is not quite sharp, it takes too much pressure on the side of the work piece to produce a cutting action, again bending the piece slightly, and then it wants to climb up over the tool bit, again.

It would be a good idea to use a center in the tailstock to support the piece. Back it off when it comes time to part off the piece.

You probably can cut this without a center, but it's quite a bit of thin material sticking out of the chuck. It will take very light cuts, tool on center, and very sharp. 
Give it a try with a center and see if you have better results.

Dean


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## xr6t (Jan 29, 2010)

Thanks for the tips again, but once again I have not been successful.

The live center did make a difference, I resharpened and reshaped the hss tool and finely ground it on a diamond stone, used a bit of Magic Tap and it cut like it was peeling an apple, using 630rpm.

I think I may have been using too much pressure. I have started another piece and I am taking .003 off each cut, log winded but it is working so far. Will take the second stage cuts tomorrow, don't want to screw my day up completely.

Any other advice gratefully received.

Cheers

KenM


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## capjak (Jan 29, 2010)

The first time that I attempted to make the valve it broke. I tried to do it the same way that you did. My second try was successful. I used a live center and an MT3 extension so that the tailstock was displaced and I could work close to it. I also started my work on the end of the stock closest to the chuck. After the first cut was completed I moved it into the chuck so that the next cut was started close to the chuck again. After that cut was completed I moved the piece back out from the chuck and parted it off next to the chuck. I cut the flat on the end with an abrasive disc in a Dremel tool. I hope that you can figure out my explanation. It is very apparent that I am not a technical writer.

Jack


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## Little_Freddie (Jan 29, 2010)

Hiya!!  I am at the same stage with my EZ, first project on the lathe, and lost a couple of valve stems,... Can I suggest you double check toolpost holder tightness?? And parting tool rigidity??? I had the same thing happen to me,.. I found that the parting tool blade was out too far, causing it to flex, and the toolpost holder was not as tight as it could be, and was rotating slightly under pressure, causing the cutting tool to bite into the side of the cut I was making,......


Cheers,  good luck with it,.... Fred


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## xr6t (Jan 29, 2010)

Fred and Jack, thanks for the tips and encouragement. Glad to know that I'm not the only one who is/was having a couple of hic-cups.

I'll try all methods, the tip by Dean on the tip being a little low rang true to what I was experiencing, but when I checked the height it seemed OK, I gave the tool holder a slight swirl to raise it a fraction and that also helped thus far.

Will finish reading the paper then give it a go.

Thanks, please post some photos of your engines from what I gather there are a few interested parties in this project.

Cheers

KenM


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## xr6t (Jan 29, 2010)

??? I'm not sure if it's me or the drawings????

In the instructions on the flywheel it clearly states"Drill the center of the flywheel with a 15/32nds drill and follow it with a .025 inch reamer." Now if my maths are correct 15/32" is a lot larger than what a .025 inch reamer is going to handle. To further complicate matters we are told to drill another hole .250" from the center point of the flywheel, this of course means that I am trying to drill a hole on the edge of the 15/32nd inch hole.

The actual drawings are of no help - no measurements and not to scale.

Now for the good news. ;D

Managed to machine the valve. :big:

In the meantime, I now have to solve the problem of filling in a 15/32" hole in the center of the flywheel.

Cheers

KenM


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## black85vette (Jan 29, 2010)

It's not you. Just went and read the instruction page and you are correct. You should drill about 1/32" under the reamer. So for .025" (8/32) you would want a 7/32" drill.  It is always interesting to find an error like this after about 6 to 8 builds. Makes me wonder #1 if anybody else even read it or #2 they just didn't bother to mention it. Anyway a karma point for you for finding AND reporting an error.

Good to hear you got the valve done.  Thm:


As for the valve. There may be several solutions but here is one that was done just for the looks. Pick a different material than the flywheel is made of.  Bore out the center of the flywheel to about 1" then make a 1" insert out of the other material. Go for a snug fit and epoxy or loctite it into place. Face both sides and you will have a nice looking flywheel and you can re-drill the center.  I will go try to find the post this was in.


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## black85vette (Jan 29, 2010)

Got it. Woodknack did a nice job and has a good thread on his build. He did a brass insert into an aluminum flywheel and it looked really nice. Check out his build here:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6686.0

I will try to get a correction loaded ASAP. Thanks again for finding it.

Rick


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## xr6t (Jan 30, 2010)

Still going and loving it. ;D

Had a good day at the office today, see photos.

After trying one idea on the first flywheel I decided to make another with a little more width which should give me more weight, hence more inertia. I think the brass flywheel would be superior, but cannot figure away to cut the small piece I have. ???

On having a good look at the design and what mistakes I was making I have modified the flywheel axle, decided on a .250" hole in the flywheel and a .375" axle, machined the whole thing out of brass after carefully measuring the distance needed to keep the flywheel crank and valve in line, this meant a nice step in the assembly. This is the best that I can explain it, the picture should make it clearer. :

Valve and piston seem to be OK, at long last. :big:

Thanks for all the helpful hints, I am learning a lot.

Thanks once again to the people who put this project together, I can appreciate the time taken to do this.

Sorry if I sounded #@%*&^ off. I was bloody annoyed with myself for picking up the error and then drilling the hole, a seniors moment!


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## Deanofid (Jan 30, 2010)

Hey, it looks like you're almost done!
Keep it up.

Dean


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## black85vette (Jan 30, 2010)

The whole point of this is a learning experience. You make mistakes or don't do it as well as you would like, but you learn.  With time and more projects it gets better and you learn to do more difficult and accurate work. You are doing a fine job with this and if you ask some of the old hands around here how many times they make a mistake that requires some rework you would find it fairly common. It can also be part of the fun. 

BTW Dean; This is the first correction I have made to the instructions. You gave a good tip on reaming in one of the EZ engine builds and that is now part of the documentation. Just need to upload it.  :bow:


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## Little_Freddie (Jan 30, 2010)

Nice going!!!  mine is coming along nicely as well,  (will update my W.I.P. thread shortly,.......)

without wishing to go O.T.....as regards minor measurement 'hiccups' in the plans, in the metric version, the parts list shows the valve body as 40x20x20,  but the plans show it as 45x20x20,... not too much difference, but hey, us newbies need as few hiccups as possible!!!
I compaired with the imperial drawings,.. this listed the valve body as 1.875 inches, which to me equates to 48mm,  so that's what I made it!!!!!(any extra only seems to be at the back of the block, so makes no difference, I think?? ??? )

Thanks for the update,...  yours is looking better than mine, you must have a top notch angle grinder!!! :big:


  Cheers,  Fred


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## xr6t (Jan 31, 2010)

Hi all,

Freddie, have a look at the photo on the previous page of the block in the vise, that's the standard I started out with. I had a quick lesson on how to use the 4 jaw chuck, during this operation I also learned about what I now call "carriage creep" when trying to face the block flat.

It was now a case of two more lessons to be learnt quickly. I work on the theory, both with myself and my students, "only a fool keeps on making the same mistakes" so I had to improve my use of the grinder and learn to adjust my facing technique.

Thankfully, both have improved.

As for making mistakes, once again on the first lesson with all my students I always give them this mini speech, "I don't care how many mistakes you make, this is the best way to learn. I won't let you get into any danger, just remember, the person who hasn't made a mistake hasn't made anything. The direction I come from teaching is to make you have fun, if I succeed in that you will enjoy driving (I am a Driving Instructor) if I don't, you will hate driving and never really be a good driver. Now let's go and have some fun."

During this new learning process for me I have used the above message to myself. 

Simply having a ball, sometimes putting it on paper does not come across well.

Finished, the project today apart from the timing, had to make a couple of spacers to get the clearances right but it ticks over well as per the instructions with a flick of the finger. Will try and get back to it later in the week.

Upon a successful launch, I am champing at the bit for the next episode. This is very addictive.

Cheers

KenM


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## Little_Freddie (Jan 31, 2010)

.... Nice one, Ken,..  well done!!! :bow: :bow:

Yes, I think the learning process is the be all & end all,  I have loved doing things I would not normally do,... Just a few more steps for me, & we can look for something else to strech our meagre abilities!!!  ;D

Cheers,  have fun,  Fred


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## black85vette (Jan 31, 2010)

Doing a great job. Now we are waiting for the video!


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