# American LaFrance Steam Fire Pumper



## steamin (Feb 5, 2011)

Greetings, I just found this awesome website. There sure is a lot of great items being built and a wealth of information available. So I thought I would jump into the middle of the pond and share what I have been working on for the past 16 months. I purchased the drawings and castings from Coles Power Models for the American LaFrance Steam Pumper. The attached picture is where I am at in the build. Since I am not a purist at heart, I have taken some liberties as to the overall look of the unit. I have seen several full size units and have several reference books. So I am taking those items of interest and incorporating them into my custom made Fire Pumper. I will be glad to post additional pictures and building techniques I use as time permits and if interested. By the same token, I am very open to constructive criticism and will be glad to read any comments. Larry


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## joe d (Feb 5, 2011)

Larry:

Welcome to the forum. I'm sure I will not be alone in saying that there's interest!
Your engine looks good so far, looking forward to following your progress.

Cheers, Joe


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## Cedge (Feb 5, 2011)

Larry
You might enjoy this forum link to a similar build log. The place is really worth taking a little time to explore. Somre pretty amazing work to be seen.

http://forum.scalemodelhorsedrawnvehicle.co.uk/showthread.php?t=833

Steve


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## wareagle (Feb 5, 2011)

Larry, welcome to HMEM! Very nice pumper you have there. Looking forward to seeing this one come along!


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## rleete (Feb 5, 2011)

Looks like some fine work so far. Welcome.


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## IronHorse (Feb 5, 2011)

Welcome , and beautiful work on the wheels 8)

IronHorse


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## metalmad (Feb 5, 2011)

IronHorse  said:
			
		

> Welcome , and beautiful work on the wheels 8)
> 
> IronHorse


What He said and just look at the turning on the chimney 
Pete


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## steamer (Feb 6, 2011)

Welcome!

Nice looking pumper!  Is that a B&S mill behind it?

Dave


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## Maryak (Feb 6, 2011)

Larry,

Welcome to our forum. wEc1

Nice pumper :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## b.lindsey (Feb 6, 2011)

Welcome Larry,

The engine looks fantastic and so does the shop behind it. Maybe you can post some more pictures of the shop as well. Wel LOVE pictures :big:

Regards,

Bill


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## Quickj (Feb 6, 2011)

Larry,
Welcome to HMEM.
I have been following this build over on SmokStak, and you know I will be following it here as well.

Jim in Minnesota


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## steamin (Feb 6, 2011)

What a gracious welcome you have extended to me, thank very much ! QuickJ, glad to know that you are part of this forum, I hope to catch up on your projects as well. Yes, I have been making posts on the Smokstak forum since the inception of this build. This web site was brought to my attention again a few weeks ago. So I have decided to do a double posting to reach out to as many model makers as possible. Let me explain, if I may. First, I am 66 years old and have been retired for the past 2.5 years. I have been part of the scientific community all my working career designing and building hardware, instrumentation and mechanical items for research and development purposes. I have been places and done some things that people do not even know that exist. Second, the knowledge, machining techniques, and design capabilities I have developed can not be bought over the inner net or found in books. Third, at my age, it is getting more apparent that the knowledge that I have accumulated will go with me when I leave this world. So I want to share with as many as I can what I have learned and developed while I am here.

When I started to serve my apprenticeship under my father's watchful eyes, he encouraged me to watch the other model makers in their approach to problem solving, machining techniques, machine setups and even the way they sharpened there drills and tool bits. He encouraged me to take what I saw and develop it into what works for me, because no two machinist will accomplish a job in the same manner. The end results will be the same, but different paths will have been followed.

Having said all that, by no means what I may share on this forum is the right way of doing something. They are techniques that have worked for me that I am glad to share with anyone anytime. I love to look at other model maker's projects and see what I can glen from their work.

Do you, fellow model makers, realize that we are a breed set apart ? That we alone can take a piece of paper with lines on it with or without dimensions and make a physical piece out of metal, wood or whatever ? That there are no real apprenticeship programs setup for the world of model making ? Gentlemen and Ladies, "WE" are the last of the "Mahicans".

Steve, thank you for the link. Chuck and I have been sharing some comments over the past few months. He truly has an awesome task on his hands. Great looking workmanship. His approach to the wheels was a little different than mine. I will share my method later.

Pete, the chimney wound up being two pieces. I started the base first and found a lot of blow holes that could not be cleaned up in the top portion. Cole would have replaced the casting, but I had to much time in it to scrap it. So I bought another piece of bronze from "Speedy Metals" for the top section.

Dave, you do what I do, I love to look in the background of a picture to see what I can see. Sometimes the background is more interesting than the subject matter of the picture. Sorry, it is not a B&S. It is a Kearney & Trecker #2 horizontal milling machine. I was able to buy it at surplus with all the attachments and a zillion cutters. It was a great help in building my 1/3 CASE 65 engine.

Bill, I will be glad to post some pictures of the shop at a later date.

Jim, again it was good to hear from you. To you and the others, thank you for your support and interest.

Please excuse me for my ramblings.


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## joe d (Feb 6, 2011)

steamin  said:
			
		

> It was a great help in building my 1/3 CASE 65 engine.
> 
> Please excuse me for my ramblings.



Larry: Ramble all you want, it's interesting. Any photos of the Case would sure be interesting too!

Cheers, Joe


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## steamer (Feb 6, 2011)

My dad, a fire department mechanic, was at the Lafrance factory for one of their big anniversarys probably 30 years ago. They put on an old fashioned firemens muster, which is a competition.

Lafrance brought out two brand new modern diesel pumpers, and for a while were the kings of the stream competition, where your department and engine see how far you can throw a stream of water.

Well, a team from New York brought their big Lafrance steam pumper....at over 2000 gallons a minute, it beat the diesels quite handily....The Lafrance brass wasn't sure if they should be embarassed or proud! :big: :big:

Can't beat a positive displacement pump!

Dave


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## steamin (Feb 9, 2011)

Dave, what an awesome story about your father. I can just see the top brass looking at each other right now in amazement. Thank you for sharing. I a book on American Steam Fire Engines that have similar stories about manufactures competing on how far and how high their could shot a stream of water in order to make a sale.

Anyway, since I can not sleep, I thought I would do a little rewind for you on the La France. When I received the castings, I was very disappointed in the quality and detail of the want to be leaf spring packages. So I purchased a coil of 3/8" wide by 0.030" thick blue tempered spring steel. I cut and bent by hand the leaf springs that are shown in the first three pictures. The brass pieces on the ends of the top leaf were roughly shaped. A hole was drilled and tapped (2-56) in it. A clearance hole for a 2-56 brass was made in each end. The two pieces were screwed together and silver soldered. The brass screws were filed away. As I would develop each leaf, I would lay the spring package on the print and massage the leaves as needed. The first picture shows how the brass piece was silver soldered to the ends of the top leaf of the individual spring packagers. The second picture is more of an overall view of the front suspension. I have since done away with the "U" bolts holding the springs to the front axle. I am using the same method as I did with the rear axle as shown in the third picture. I did add a radius rod to keep the rear axle in place. This was not called for on the prints. Instead I was asked to tighten all the components so nothing would move. Doing what I have done has now given the La France a fully functional 'live' suspension. 

Joe, the forth picture is of the 1/3scale CASE 65 sitting in my workshop just before we finished up the sheet metal guard for the differential gearing guard.


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## steamer (Feb 9, 2011)

Hi Larry,

Nice details on that, The trailing arm coming off the boiler foundation ring seem typical.

I was at Manchester NH Airport and in the main lobby on display was a steam pumper, I think it was an Abernacke....In any case I remember that it was made in Manchester.

The frame of the chassis went forward under the (horse) drivers seat as a support and terminated near the front where it became the standpipe!.....Those old boys could design back then.

Dave


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## steamin (Feb 9, 2011)

Hi Dave,
There is a reference, I do believe, about the engine you saw in my book "History of The American Steam Fire Engine". If I have the right one, it was manufactured by the Amoskeag Manufacturing Co. which was a part of the Manchester Locomotive Works in New Hampshire. It was quite the engine at the time. The first one was built in 1895. It could play two streams of water to a height of 203 feet in seven minutes after the fire was lite. I will try to scan and post an illustration of the engine.

Some more rewind on the La France:

Picture #1 is a typical hub assembly. The hub material is 12L14 steel. The material is considered "free machining" due to its high lead content. It also has the trade name "Ledaloy". If you put a slight radius on your turning tool and use emery cloth for polishing it will polish up to a very bright luster. This type of steel is un-weldable. The hub cap is brass. I did not want to machine hexes on the hub caps, so I drilled and tapped a 2-56 thread in a short piece of 1/4" hex stock and use a flat head screw from the inside of the hub to hold the hex piece to the hub. The hub was put back on a mandrel and the hex was machined to the finished dimensions.

Picture #2 is a stack of red mahogany wood blanks for the wheel rimes. Sitting on top of the wood are the two aluminum patterns that were used to rough out the rim shapes. 

Picture #3 shows some of the rim blanks being glued together with "Loctite" Control Gel. Great stuff !

Picture #4 shows a rear wheel blank mounted to the jig plate that was developed for turning and drilling the front and rear wheels rims.

Continued to next post:


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## steamin (Feb 9, 2011)

Picture #5 shows a wood rime with its OD & ID turned still mounted to the jig plate. I am starting to drill the holes for the ends of the spokes.

Picture #6 illustrates a cheap hold down clamp. I bought some fender washers at the hardware store and bent them to give me the right clamping height. In this case they are on the outside of the wood rim so I can turn the ID.

Picture #7 shows a group of three spokes having the taper milled on the ends that will be under the hub. I stated with 3/8" square stock. A 9/32" dia. was turned on one end. Then the shoulder was used to locate the pieces on a sine bar for the milling process. Once one side was milled, the pieces where flipped over and the other side was milled.

Picture #8 shows the pieces developed to machine the taped on the spokes. The block on the left has two dowel pins located such that when the taper slides into the block the spoke self-centers itself around the center line of the 7/8" diameter that will be placed into the collet of the lathe. The steel piece to the right is basically a cap that is a sliding fit on the 9/32" diameter of the spoke. There is a center hole in the opposite end to ride in the live center of the lathe.

Continued to next post:


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## steamin (Feb 9, 2011)

Picture #9 shows the spoke with its attachments for turning the taper mounted in the lathe. I am fortunate to have a taper turning attachment that made the turning process very easy. After tuning a very light sanding produced a very smooth finish ready for the finishing process.

Picture #10 shows the assembly process of spokes to a rear wheel rim. Once all the spokes were in place, I used "Loctite" Control Liquid for the gluing process. Two spokes were glued together. Then the next two and so-forth. Then pairs were glued together. This gave me a chance to tweak and tune the assembly. Once the gluing was completed the jig plate with the assembled wheel was placed into the milling machine so the hub mounting holes could be drilled on the centerlines of the wheel.

Picture # 11 shows a completed wheel ready for use. The finish on the wood portion is Valspra satin finish spar varnish. I applied two coats and then used Scotchbrite between coats. I do not like to use steel wool, because it leaves little metal particles in wood. The final finish was a paste wax by Miniwax. The wood rims and each spoke were pre-finished before assemble. I just had to make sure I had no wax on the areas that where to be the glue joints. The tire for the wheel was turned from a piece of tubing that I bought from Speedy Metals. They had a size that allowed me to turn the OD and ID to my desired dimensions. The big plus about Speedy Metals is that you only have to buy what you need. Check out their web site the next time you need some materials.

I thank you for your time, interest and support.


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## arnoldb (Feb 10, 2011)

Really nice Job Larry :bow: - Keep them coming 

Kind regards, Arnold


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## steamin (Feb 13, 2011)

Good Evening, The plans for the La France call for a lot of items to be made from flat stock, especially the brake levers, brackets and supports. From my perspective this would be kind of boring to look at. The four attached pictures shows the basic technique that I have applied to achieve a 3-D effect and helps to represent a cast piece.

Picture #1 shows a flat piece of 0.030" thick brass sheet that has been shaped for one of the two front foot brake arms. There are 3 collars attached to the flat brass via 2-56 FHMS. The one at the left will be for the link to the next brake lever. The one in the center will be pinned via a taper pin to a shaft that links both arms together. The one to the right is the mounting hole for the foot bar. The curved piece is 0.062" diameter brass rod that is being shaped to fit in between the right and center collar.

Picture #2 shows the 0.062" diameter brass rods in place.

Picture #3 shows the assembly all soldered together and ready for clean up. I use a Eutectic 157 solder and liquid flux. This particular solder and flux is great for dis semiliar metals. In this case I was able to just unscrew the 2-56 screws from the soldered assembly. Sometimes a little solder will flow into the tapped hole area and I have to drill them out. I use flat head screws so there is less head contact with the main assembly therefore less clean up work to do.

Picture #4 shows the cleaned up arm in place on the front of the La France. The shaft in the center collar will be flush with the outside surface and pinned with a 00 taper pin at a later date. I like to use taper pins instead of set screws. It makes for a cleaner installation and they can be hidden under the paint if they are not to be removed.

Thank you for you interest and support


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## steamin (Feb 27, 2011)

I have been able to squeeze in a little time on the LaFrance. I am concentrating on the brake rigging right now. The foot pedal and its levers are done. The first attached picture shows the first transfer lever and the prototype adjustable rod end. The lever was fabricated from brass flat and round stock as described in the previous post. The second picture is a closeup of the adjustable rod end. I think I was a little too aggressive with the file in rounding the edges. So I will hold back on my filing a little bit. So now I am setting up to make 12 of the little guys.


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## steamin (Mar 9, 2011)

Since I have the 1/3 CASE and 1/4 Scale sawmill pretty well squared away for a show next week, I have been able to spend a little time on the LaFrance brake rigging. 
Picture #1 shows the curb side foot lever and the first transfer lever with a link and rod ends in place. The levers will be fastened to their shafts via 00 taper pins. 
Picture #2 shows the rest of the rod ends needed plus a few extra. I need to hand file the radius on the end. I will do that as I need them.
Picture #3 shows a rod end with the shoulder bolt to link it to the lever. The shoulder bolt is made from 1/8" hex brass bar stock. The length of the shoulder is 0.120" x 0.092" diameter. The threads are 2-56 by 0.070" long. I still need to make 12 more of those little guys.

Thank you once again for your interest and support.


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## steamin (Mar 26, 2011)

Work has been progressing on the LaFrance. I made a minor mistake in the placement of a hole for the brake lever shaft in the left side frame. So I dismantled what I had to correct my mistake. While it is apart I decided to finish the boiler as much as possible or at least to the hydro test stage. I have posted the boiler build in the "Boiler" section. It is entitled "Boiler Build For American LaFrance Engine". I started that post because of boiler specific questions I had. So, if interested take a look. Thank you for your interest and support.


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## steamin (May 1, 2011)

With the successful hydro on the boiler of 200 psig plus a little, I can now move to other areas of the build. I had a chance to do some head scratching this weekend about the coal bunker. The attached pictures show the beginnings. I am trying to work up a steel panels with copper rivets assembly. The bunker will have the basic dimensions and look per the drawings, just a different assembly technique other than soldering everything together. Besides, rivets are "cool" looking.

The second picture shows how I bent the corner pieces. I clamped a 3/8" diameter drill blank with the piece of metal to be bent in my milling machine vise. I used a block of wood and a hammer to gentle bend the metal around the drill blank. The metal is CRS 0.030" thick sheet stock from McMaster-Carr. 

I did find a source for some neat brass shapes. They had half round brass that is 3/16" x 1/8" tall that I will solder around the top perimeter of the bunker. Their web site is:

http://www.lewisbrass.com/index.htm


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## sunworksco (May 2, 2011)

Where can I buy those very nice clamps?


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## steamin (May 2, 2011)

I got the clamps from MSC (Manhattan Supply Company). They are called "Kant Twist". You can google MSC and order from their online catalog.


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## maverick (May 2, 2011)

Very nice work Larry. Your fixturing to shape the spokes is quite clever and the finished wheels look great.

Regards,
Mike


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## sunworksco (May 3, 2011)

Thank you Steamin!
MSC is very good website!


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## b.lindsey (May 3, 2011)

Larry,
This is such a nice project, unique and with lots of beautiful detail too. I also like the combination of the metalwork and woodworking. I know we sometimes joke about wood being "the brown stuff". but when it comes together as it has in your project its a work of art every bit as much as metal. Keep it coming 

Bill


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## steamin (May 11, 2011)

Gentlemen, thank you very much for your kind comments.

A little more work has been done on the coal bunker for the LaFrance. The outside pieces are butt joints with a strap on the inside. 0.062" diameter copper rivets have been used to hold the pieces together. Picture #1 gives you a flavor of what it looks like. I have not made the typical cut out in the back panel because I like the look of the wood deck that goes across the back portion of the bunker. Plus the full panel will give me more room for graphics. I plan to have painted on the panel LRD No.4 (Laurence Russell DuFour). There will be brackets for the wood step that is located at the bottom edge of the bunker. If you look inside the bunker you will see a small panel, this is the draft door. Picture #2 shows the draft door open. Picture #3 shows the bottom of the bunker. I had a neat piece of 1/2" wide stainless steel piano hinge that was incorporated for the draft door and the ash pan. The ash pan will be riveted to the two tabs and will allow the pan to drop completely down and out of the way for cleaning the bottom side of the boiler.

Looking at the boiler in Picture #2 you can just barely see two bushings on the other side of the draft door panel. These bushings are at the mud ring. I plan to plumb them so a valve can be on each bushing. The valves will be on the open side of the bunker. One valve will be for a blow down valve and the second will be used for connecting an air supply line for running the LaFrance at indoor shows.


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## metalmad (May 12, 2011)

Absolutely gorgeous Buddy
Pete


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## steamin (May 16, 2011)

Well, the first picture shows what the coal bunker turned into. The coal bunker was just not coming together as I had pictured in my mind and I was not happy with it. :'( I tried to adjust this and that and it went from bad to worse.  So it is now in the scrap bin. It was a great exercise and now I know what not to do. 

So, while I wait for the new sheet stock for the coal bunker to arrive I worked on the fire box door and latch. The other three pictures show the results of my efforts. I think they are keepers.


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## SBWHART (May 17, 2011)

Hi Larry

Great work, its comming on real nice.

I hope you don't mind me posting this picture of a LaFrance that caught my eye at the Harrogate show.






Stew


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## steamin (May 17, 2011)

Stew, thanks for sharing, I do appreciate it. It is amazing how many of these LaFance engines are out there. Wouldn't be neat to have all of them gathered in one place for show and tell. then have a good old fashion competition like in the old days to see how fair and how high one could shoot a stream of water. 

Stew, if you have anymore shots, I would be interested in seeing them. Send me a pm and we can share email addresses. Thanks again.


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## steamin (May 22, 2011)

Greetings, well I have a new beginning on the coal bunker. The attached pictures sort of tell the story.

Picture #1 shows the new sheet metal clamped in a bending fixture. The fixture is a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate. There are 2 fixed 3/4" diameter posts and a fixed 3/8" x 1-1/2" aluminum bar between the posts. The surface of the aluminum bar is flush or tangent with the 3/4" diameter posts. The other aluminum bar is for clamping purposes.

Picture #2 shows the results of the bending process. I clamped the fixture plate in my bench vise and used a wooden block and hammer to gentle bend the steel sheet around the 3/4" diameter posts. It was very easy to do. The steel sheet is only 0.030" thick.

Picture #3 shows the newly bent sheet metal attached to the boiler. I am liking this coal bunker a lot better than my first attempt. It has the nice clean round edges I was looking for. It should make a great canvas, so to speak, for the artist to do something similar as shown in picture #4.

Picture #4 is a rear shot of the American LaFrance Fire Engine located in the American LaFrance fire engine museum in Charleston, SC.


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## sunworksco (May 22, 2011)

Larry,
Very impressive build!
I want to order those clamps.
Please tell me what the catalog number is?


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## steamin (May 22, 2011)

Giovanni, the MSC catalog page is 1163. They list from 1" to 12" capacity. The ones you have seen in my posts have been the 1" and 2" capacity. The 1" capacity is catalog #08087017 and the 2" capacity is catalog #08087033. It is very easy to set up an account to order on line. Once you do, you can expect a big blue book coming to you via UPS. Happy clamping :big:


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## steamer (May 22, 2011)

Another plug for MSC from a happy customer.  Order by 5pm, at your door by 10 am the next day.

NOT the cheapest, but it's always in stock.

Go to their website Giovanni, and look around....amazing stuff.

www.mscdirect.com


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## sunworksco (May 22, 2011)

Thanks friends,
Just ordered 7 of each.
Should bring me some clamping luck.LOL!


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## steamin (May 28, 2011)

Greetings, First I want to say a big THANK YOU to all those who served in our armed forces and are still doing so. You and your family sacrifices are greatly appreciated, otherwise I and my family could not have the quality of life as we have.

The LaFrance; well, I did it again; I changed my mind on the coal bunker. I promise this is the last time unless something drastic happens to what I now have.

Picture #1 shows what I have wound up with. It is more in tune with the size of pumper that is being modeled and yes it is in accordance with the drawings that came with the model. Silly me! What I was attempting to copy was for a much smaller LaFrance pumper. The last bunker I shared with you was just not in the right portions.

Picture #2 is a close up view of the bunker. I still need to rivet the sheet metal in place that wraps around the boiler. A new draft door needs to be made. The valve you see will be a blow down valve. There will be one on the opposite side. It will be used to attached a compressed air line to the model. Both lines will drop through the floor pan of the bunker and exit to the rear under the bunker and the wooden step (yet to be made).

Picture #3 shows the development of the ash door. It needs to be trimmed to size and latches made. 

Thank you for your patience and interest.

God Bless, Larry


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## steamer (May 29, 2011)

I was looking at the Amosqeage (spelling?) at the Waltham Museum of industry yesterday....lots of similarities.

Thats coming along nicely Steamin!

Dave


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## sunworksco (May 29, 2011)

Great build!


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## steamin (Jun 10, 2011)

Well, the ash door is cut to size and the latches are finished. I will let the pictures speak for themselves.


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## peatoluser (Jun 10, 2011)

very very impressive. It's the attention to the small details that can change a good model to a great one.

really enjoying the build thread

peter


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2011)

Those "little" parts were a LOT of work!  Great job!

Dave


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## steamin (Jun 20, 2011)

Gentlemen, thank you for your kind comments. They are appreciated.

I jumped another hurdle tonight with the coal bunker; the half round brass piece that goes around the top edge. I have not been able to find any 0.125" half round brass stock, so I made a piece. I took a piece of 1/2" square aluminum bar and reamed a 0.128" diameter hole in it on the center line and very close to the end of the bar stock. I set up a 0.030" thick slitting blade on the centerline of the hole and made a plunge cut into the end of the aluminum bar and all the way through to the back side of the hole. Picture #1 & #2 gives a good idea of what I did. Then I took a piece of 1/8" diameter brass rod and fed it into the hole and into the slitting blade. Low and behold out came to pieces of 1/2 round suitable for mounting around the top of the coal bunker. I used one piece to practice bending and shaping. Before I did that I heated the area to be bent to a dull cherry color and let it cool. It made the brass rod a little more plyable for bending.

Picture #3 shows the beginning stages of bending the brass to the contours of the top edge of the bunker.
Picture #4 shows the brass soldered in place and cleaned up. Again, I used Eutectic 157 soft solder for joining the brass rod to the steel bunker. Great stuff !


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## peatoluser (Jun 21, 2011)

Really like your jig for slitting the bar! very inventive. just the sort of thing I like.
how much overhang were you able to slit at one go?
great build thread by the way

yours 
peter


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## steamin (Jun 21, 2011)

Thanks Pete, I had a piece of 1/8" rod about 32" long that I started with. I pushed through what I thought was enough and then a little more. I wound up with a piece of 1/2 round about 18" long. The hole kept the rod centered in relation to the slitting blade and the slitting blade kept the rod from turning. The blade acted like a keyway. The process was like feeding a piece of wood into a table saw blade.


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## Groomengineering (Jun 21, 2011)

Very nice work Larry! Thm:

Cheers

Jeff


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## ShedBoy (Jun 21, 2011)

:bow: :bow:
Great work! Love the attention to detai. That is a fantastic jig for making half round.
Brock


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## steamin (Jun 21, 2011)

Jeff, I like your saying at the bottom of your reply about going from failure to failure without losing your enthusiasm. I have seen so many young folks give up after trying something only once. I always told my kids and now my grand kids that if your first attempt fails, then you know what will not work. So, keep trying something else until you are happy with the results.

Anyway, I added a few more parts to the coal bunker. The struts between the bunker and the rear of the frame and a wooden step. The step is mounted to two steel channels bent out of 0.030" thick sheet stock. They are attached to the floor of the bunker via 1-72 HHCS. The wood step is also fastened to the channels via 1-72 HHCS. A grab rail will be developed to go from the outer edge of the step to the frame. 

I do appreciate your interest and support.


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## sunworksco (Jun 22, 2011)

It is a rolling sculpture, a piece of jewelry!
Regards,
Giovanni
P.S.
What are the MSC catalog numbers on your clamps?


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## steamin (Jun 22, 2011)

Giovanni you are to kind and I do thank you. The clamps you see in the picture are called "Toolmaker Parallel Clamps". They are made by Starrett tool company. MSC catalog number is 86405966. It has a 1-1/4" capacity. They are kind of pricey. There are some import ones available at a much lower price and so is the quality. The biggest difference is the nose of the clamp. Starrett has a nice slim tapered nose while the others are rather fat. Check out page 1166 in the MSC catalog and you will see all the different sizes available. Happy clamping :big:


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## Dan Rowe (Jun 22, 2011)

Larry,
Nice work.
Is that tiny steel channel holding the running board? 
Did you mill that or do you have a source of the stock?

Dan

Edit: Doh ;D I should read the words not just look at the pictures. :big:


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## sunworksco (Jun 23, 2011)

Thanks Larry.
Ordered the proper ones!
I use Starrett calipers so I know the quality is very good.
Regards,
Giovanni


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## steamin (Jun 26, 2011)

Well, I shifted gears a little bit. I started work on the boiler feed water storage tank. This tank sometimes sits under the driver's seat or just behind it. In my case it will sit behind the seat and that leaves room for a neat little wood tool box under the seat.

Anyway, the first picture show some of the components that make up the tank. The tank body is made from a 1-1/4" diameter brass sink drain tail piece that I purchased at Lowes. The ends caps are turned brass pieces that are a very nice snug fit to the ID of the brass tube. The little item to the left of the end cap is a threaded cap for the filler tube on the top of the tank. The brass item on the bottom is for the piping that goes to the feed water pump. These items have been soldered in. The second picture shows what I have so far all assembled. The holes in the side of the brass turned fittings are for the sight glass assembly yet to be fabricated.


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## steamin (Jun 27, 2011)

I tackled the sight glass assembly for the feed water make up supply tank this afternoon. The sight glass itself was made from a piece of plexiglass rod stock. The bore was drilled and reamed at 0.092" dia. The drilling and reaming process was flooded with cutting oil. The chips were not allowed to accumulate in the flutes, so there was no scaring of the bore. The OD was turned to final diameter in stages. I would turn about 3/8" and then pull the stock out of the collet some more and so on. A little bit of Simachrome polish and walla, we have a sight glass tube.


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## sunworksco (Jun 30, 2011)

That is actually acrylic?
I had no idea acrylic could be used for hot water.
What are the pros and cons of glass vs. acrylic?
BTW those Starrett clamps are superb!
Regards,
Giovanni


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## steamin (Jun 30, 2011)

Hello Giovanni, glad you like the Starret clamps. They are handy for sure. The little acrylic tube will only see cold water. The tank in the picture will hold "cold" water to be added to the boiler as needed until the fire engine arrives at the site of the fire. Then the suction hose for the pump can be placed into a water source for pumping water onto the fire. Then water can be drawn off that source for the make up water to the boiler and the little tank will be bypassed. Are you confused yet ??? I am and I am trying to write this :big: 

In any case, I have yet to see any sight glass on an original engine. It was just something to add to my engine and I think it is kind of cute ;D


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## sunworksco (Jul 1, 2011)

I get it, now.
Thanks for the explanation.
Very nice build.
Regards,
Giovanni


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## Lesmo (Jul 1, 2011)

Larry this is a fascinating build, it is like picking up a very good book and not being able to put it down until the end. I started reading late last night and started again first thing this morning, and have just finished.

I had intended to make an early start in the shop, in order to finish the back plate to mount my 4 jaw, but I was so engrossed by your build, my own took a back seat.

That is the problem with this forum, there are so many distractions, (although I hesitate to call interesting projects a problem) its a wonder anyone gets anything done  
I love the quality of your work, your attention to detail, inventiveness, and the fact that you wont accept a part which may have taken hours to build, if you dont think it is up to par. I should take another lesson here, along with the useful techniques I have absorbed Keep up the excellent work. I will be checking to make sure you dont slack.

Cheers Les. :bow:


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## steamin (Jul 2, 2011)

Les, I humbly thank you for your kind comments. I am so glad that you are able to glean something from my thread as well as all the other fine projects that are being presented here. It is with God's Grace that I am able to do what I do. He is the one who deserves all the credit.


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## steamin (Jul 8, 2011)

Good Afternoon, Well I started on the mounting brackets for the feed water tank and have mounted it to the frame. I still have some tweaking and tuning to do, but overall I think it will work. So, while I was mounting the tank I decided to put together everything I have made to date to get an overall feel as to where I am at. So I put on my elevator music and had at it. Another reason for the total assembly was so the person who is going to do the pin stripping can get an overall feel of the scope of the project.

Picture #1 & #2 show the mounting of the feed water tank.
Picture #3 & #4 are overall left and right side views.

Once again, I must say I do appreciate the comments and support. This is an awesome forum and I am enjoying all the other fantastic builds that are taking place around the world.


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## sunworksco (Jul 8, 2011)

Can hardly wait to see some steam!
Regards,
Giovanni


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## steamin (Jul 19, 2011)

I had a chance to spend some hours in Plant #1 (my workshop) over the past few weeks working on the brake rigging. The transfer levers were made from 0.032" thick brass sheet stock. Small bushing were turned and held in place with 2-56 brass screws for the soldering process. The ribs between the bushings are made from 0.062" diameter brass rod.
Picture #1 shows the front and backside of the rear transfer lever.
Picture #2 is an overall view of the left side brake rigging thus far.
Picture #3 is a close-up of the first reach rod.
Picture #4 is a close-up of the second reach rod to the rear transfer lever.

Thanks again for your viewing and support.


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## mgbrv8 (Jul 19, 2011)

Sunning workmanship Sir. I look forward to seeing more.

David


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## sunworksco (Jul 19, 2011)

What a Jewell !
Regards,
Giovanni


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## Chazz (Jul 19, 2011)

Fellow HMEMr's do NOT be fooled by this guise, trust me, this is NOT a 'Pumper', carefull study shows that this is actually a replica of a mobile out-of-Kentucky Moonshine still! :big:

Seriously though, thanks for inspiring a lot of us! :bow:

Chazz


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## steamin (Jul 20, 2011)

Ahhhh shucks Chazz, you found me out. I guess I will have to share my product or be turned over to the revenuers !!! :big:

Thank you for the chuckle and to all of you for your kind comments.


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## steamer (Jul 25, 2011)

Hey Steamin,

FABULOUS WORK!!!! :bow: :bow:

Are those brake levers silver soldered or soft soldered?

Curious.....the camera leaves me to think it's soft....just curious about technique here.

I assume from the picture that they are 6 pieces?...fabb'd together?

Dave


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## steamer (Jul 25, 2011)

PS...those revenuers won't stand a chance against the steam lance! ;D


Add that to the build.........if you haven't seen the movie "The Sand Pebbles" you should. ;D

Dave


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## steamin (Jul 25, 2011)

Hi Dave, yes I have seen "Sand Pebbles". It is a classic for sure. 

Yes the brake lever in the picture was made from six pieces and soft soldered together using Eutectic 157. It is a lead base solder with tin in it. The flux is in liquid form. It is great stuff. I have been using it for over 50 Years. This particular assembly only needed my soldering gun to heat and solder the assembly. Sometimes I need to break out the big soldering iron for larger assemblies. 

The main body of the lever was laid out and holes drilled and tapped for 2-56 screws. The 3 bosses were tuned to size and a clearance hole drilled for the 2-56 screw. The bosses were then attached to the main lever body using brass 2-56 screws. The rods between the bosses were cut and filed to length to give a oh so ever slight press fit to keep them in place while soldering. After a good cleaning, I use my filing machine to file up to the bosses and file to the scribed lines from the initial layout. Then the holes are opened up to their respective size requirements.


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## steamer (Jul 25, 2011)

steamin  said:
			
		

> Hi Dave, yes I have seen "Sand Pebbles". It is a classic for sure.




Always the indication of a fellow steam nut! ;D

thanks for the explaination!



Dave


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## Dan Rowe (Jul 26, 2011)

Larry,
Very nice work I have been enjoying watching.

I had to chime in on the mention of the "Sand Pebbles". Yes it is a great movie no doubt but as good as the movie is it does not hold a candle to the book by Richard McKenna. It is in the Classics of Navel Literature series. The attention to detail in the book draws you right into the action in the engine room of a Naval Gunboat.

Dan


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## steamin (Jul 27, 2011)

Not a problem Sir Dan. I just wish I was into sitting and reading good books. I was never one to do so. I guess I have always been to busy making things.

Anyway, I just have to share this. The L.R.D. No. 4 Engine (Laurence Russell DuFour) now has an "Official" name. It is now to be called the "Karen Lynn". (see picture)

Naming an engine was a customary thing to do back when these style of engines were being built. Sometimes it was named after a town officials daughter, local folk hero or some ones grandmother. In my case it is after my soul mate of 45 years this coming August 7th. She is a very special lady in deed !!!


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## steamin (Aug 1, 2011)

More bits and pieces. The first picture shows all the brass pieces needed to fabricate the large rear brake lever. Picture #2 (side to face out board) and #3 (side to face in board) shows the pieces clamped together and ready for soldering. Picture #4 shows the lever in place with the linkage to the rest of the brake rigging. Some of the original engines had cable and pulley systems to apply the brake shoe to the wheel tire. The American LaFrance engine on display in North Charleston, SC has brake drums and shoes with a cable system to the foot pedal.


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## steamer (Aug 1, 2011)

Thanks for that Larry...being able to conjure up the setup and components for that is a very worthwhile and valuable talent! Thank you for sharing that!

Dan....If I can get a copy, I'll have to read it.....but you can't watch a young and fetching Candice Bergen if you do that! ;D

Dave


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## steamin (Aug 7, 2011)

Just had to add some color to some of the brake rigging. All done with making levers. yeh ! Now I need to taper pin them to there respective shafts. Right now I am using Valspra spray paint. It does not dry as quick as Krylon, but when it has several days to cure out, it is tough as the proverbial nail. I like it so far.


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## steamin (Aug 20, 2011)

Greetings, I have transported the LaFrance/Karen Lynn on several occasions on the back seat of our car. One time I even bought a big tub and packed a lot of towels around it to protect, so I could take it to a model show. I need to transport the engine to various painters to get some quotes for the pin stripping before I do another complete tear down. I want the painter/artist to see the whole thing together to get a feel of what he is working on.

So the project has taken a left turn and is going down another path. A transport case is in order. To firm up the overall dimensions I had to turn my thoughts to the draft gear, horses and harness rigging. The draft gear is very nicely laid out in the drawings and I have cut some red mahogany to size for the wood components. Some of the various plates have been cut out and rivet holes drilled. This can be seen in picture #2. Picture #1 shows the relative position of a 1/6 scale plastic horse to the engine. The horse was procured from ebay. It is an old Marx Johnny West series horse form the late 1960s. I will need two more because this engine was large enough to require a team of 3 horses running abreast of each other. 

So with the general layout, I have determined that the carry case will be 14"wide x 52" long x 18" tall. All inside dimensions. I unburied some old 1x rough sawn heart pine that was in my wood pile that came out of a tobacco barn in Nash County, NC. After some initial planing, re-sawing and more planing, I now have a nice stack of 3/8" thick boards to make my carrying case. The boards come complete with knot and nail holes. Picture #3.

Finding someone to make the harnesses and bridle gear has been some what of a challenge. I have yet to find anyone interested in working with me on a 1/6 scale basis. I did run across a neat you tube clip last night that shows a lot of still pictures of steam fire engines with their horses. There are some great shots of the harness and bridle assemblies. Simplicity seemed to be the key for hitching up the horses and getting to the scene of the fire. Anyway, here is the link to the video, enjoy: 

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWGZdMT2dI4[/ame]

Basic game plan:
1] Buy 2 more horses, clean up the mold seams and let my daughter paint the horses with an airbrush.
2] Make my own leather harnesses and bridles.


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## steamin (Aug 23, 2011)

I thought I would share a set-up with you for making long tapers on a milling machine.
Picture #1 shows the typical 5 sine bar being used to produce a very accurate angled surface for setting the work piece on to machine a very precise angle.

Picture #2 is a similar situation except in this case I did not have to calculate the angle in which the wood had to be set at to mill the sides. 

First I want you to notice the 3/8 dowel pin that is in a piece of CRS. The original block had a complete 3/8 diameter hole reamed through. Then material was milled away to expose a portion of the hole. Then a 3/8 diameter hardened steel dowel pin was pressed in what was left of the hole. This left part of the 3/8  dowel pin exposed. Then the T slot width of the milling machine was measured. Then the opposite side from the dowel pin was machined down to within 0.005 of that dimension. The block was clamped in a vise with a 0.002 thick shim under one end of the dowel pin. The remaining stock of the block was ground away leaving a slight taper to the back side in relation to the dowel pin. Now when the block with the dowel pin is placed into the T slot, the dowel pin is wedged against the inside surface of the slot. 

There are two of these blocks at 14-1/2 apart. This is the length of the required taper. The difference between one end to the other is 0.093. So a 0.093 diameter gage pin was placed between one 3/8 diameter pin and the straight. The end of the wood blank that is to be the narrowest was placed on the centerline of the 3/8 pin. After clamping the wood blank to the straight edge, the end mill was brought to the wood, the DRO was zeroed out and then the table was moved 0.093. Power feed was engaged and away we went. The clamps were moved periodically to keep the wood blank tight against the straight edge.

Now when it came time to do the opposite side, the 0.093 diameter gage pin was replaced with a 0.187 diameter gage pin. Then the same cutting procedure was performed as described above.


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## steamin (Oct 30, 2011)

Greetings, well I finally got some pieces painted and assembled for the draft gear. I have been fighting outdated spray paints from the discount stores in our area. One piece I removed the paint 7 times until I got something worth while to keep. Anyway, some progress is finally being made. 
Grace & Peace, Larry


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## ShedBoy (Oct 30, 2011)

Amazing attention to detail as always Larry. :bow: :bow:
Brock


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## nsfr1206 (Dec 26, 2011)

I really like this fire engine. Did you ever finish it?


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## steamin (Jan 5, 2012)

Greetings and Happy New Year, I do appreciate your interest and to answer your question; the engine is not completed yet. I have been working on all the chassis components and attachments. I wanted to get all this finished before I start on the best part yet to come; the steam engines and pump. I have been busy of late doing a lot of contract work for some local companies. I do hope to get back to the fire engine soon or at least post some updated pictures for you.
Thank again for your interest.


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## steamin (Jun 21, 2012)

Greetings, It has been a long while since my last post; way to long. I finally uncovered the LaFrance project and spent most of the week refreshing myself on the project and was able to get the draft door and latch mechanism made. Sure was good to be back working on the steamer.

The first picture shows the draft door closed and locked in position. The second picture shows the door fully opened. It can be open in varying degrees by placing the door latch pins in other grooves. I plan to make some fancier handles later on. 

Next is to assemble everything and finish up the brake parts and pin the linkages to the shafts.

Then I plan to start on the heart of the LaFrance. The engines and pump assemblies.... Yeh !!!

God Bless,
Larry


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## ozzie46 (Jun 21, 2012)

Glad to see you back on this. Great work.

 Ron


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## steamin (Jun 28, 2012)

Greetings, I have been working on another frame detail. This time it is the rear axel vibrations clamps. In the early days of these horse drawn steamers, the engine would start to jump up and down with all the vertical motion involved while running the pump. Some of the written accounts described some pretty violent motions. So the builders started to add clamping mechanisms to tie the axels to the frame.

The first picture shows my interpretation of a clamping mechanism for the rear axel. There will be one on each side of the frame.

The second picture shows how the front axel was tied to the frame through the fifth wheel mount.

All for now :wave:

God Bless,
Larry


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## Allen (Jun 28, 2012)

Lovely work Larry! Good to see you're back at 'er.

BTW did you get my e-mail last week?


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## ProdEng (Jun 29, 2012)

Larry,

I enjoy explanations of your build very much, you make what appears to me impossible happen. Once I see it done it is no longer impossible and making an attempt to do better seems to be a bit more hopeful. Please continue :bow:

Jan


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## steamer (Jun 29, 2012)

Hey Larry!

Glad to see the post...your work is excellent as usual!  Keep em comin! :bow:

Dave


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## steamin (Jul 3, 2012)

Greetings,
I did reach a my mini-goal this afternoon. All the brake rigging is in place plus a few other small frame details were taken care of. Now I can focus my attention on the steam engines and pump assemblies. I plan to build a jig that represents the center section of the frame. That way I can sit the LaFrance off to the side and free up a lot of bench space and do all my assembly work within the jig.

Thanks to all for following this build and your kind comments.

God Bless,
Larry


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## vcutajar (Jul 4, 2012)

Larry

Just came across this thread and went through it from the start. Your attention to the details is amazing. :bow: :bow:

Vince


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## ozzie46 (Jul 4, 2012)

Absolutely amazing workmanship! :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

 For some reason I thought the steam engine was already made. Oh well the saga con tinues. 

  Ron


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## steamin (Jul 12, 2012)

Greetings, Progress is being made on the fixture for the engine and pump assembly. The frame work is assembled. I need to cut the recesses for the main bearings and drill and tap the mounting holes. The main bearings and flywheels are roughed out. There were some bosses on the inside of the main bearings for 10-32 threads. They were not adequate for 10-32 threads so I have machined them off and will add some larger ones.

Till later,
Larry


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## steamin (Jul 15, 2012)

Greetings, 
Main Bearings: 
I was able to correct the bosses on the back side of the main bearings by turning some brass pieces and soldering them in place. The tops and bottoms are tapped 10-32 for the support rods for the engine and pump mounting plates. Picture #1
Crankshaft:
I took a different approach on the crankshaft. I machined individual components and pressed them together with Locktite.Then the parts will be pinned together with taper pins. Picture #2 shows the individual pieces and picture #3 shows the assembled crank ready for the pinning operation.

Till Later,
Larry


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## steamin (Jul 18, 2012)

Good evening, Made some more progress. Picture #1 shows all the posts turned and mounted in the main bearings. The cylinder mounting plate is made and in place. There are two pieces of brass that have been machined down to 1/8" and 3/16" thick from 1/4" thick plate. I suppose I could have bought some stock already to size, but the surface finish leaves a lot to be desired. Picture #2 is a close up of the newly attached boss on the bearing plate with the post screwed in. While I was set up for fly cutting, I dressed up the top and bottom surfaces of the pump body. Then I was able to drill a cross hole in a very suspicious area of the pump body casting. My concerns were if the holes you see in Picture #3 went through to the cross hole I drilled. The best I can tell all is well. 
Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Jul 21, 2012)

Good Evening,
Great news, there are NO inclusions in the pump body casting. All the holes have been drilled and bored as should be without any problems. All that is left is to tap the mounting holes and mill 4 channels. The top mounting plate and bottom cover are finished except for matching the outer edges to the pump body. Are we having fun yet, you bet !!!!
Till later, Larry


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## vcutajar (Jul 22, 2012)

Still following you Larry.  Amazing work.

Vince


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## rhitee93 (Jul 23, 2012)

Wow, that pump body is quite a piece!  I'm glad you didn't run into any inclusions as that would have been a bummer!


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## steamin (Jul 24, 2012)

I feel like I lucked out on the pump casting. Usually my luck is to bore the final hole and find a big blow hole.

Anyway, I just had to share these pictures with all of you. I am sooo excited ! I want to take the assembly out of the fixture and put it into the main frame of the LaFrance. But I am going to wait till I get the major components for the top side machined and assembled. 

Till later
Larry


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## idahoan (Jul 24, 2012)

Wow that looks really nice Larry,

I have been following your build although not commenting on your progress as I should have.
Thanks for sharing your progress with us; your work is just outstanding.

I got to see a full sized one under steam and pumping water some years ago at Antique Powerland in Brooks Oregon; what a sight.

Dave


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## rhitee93 (Jul 25, 2012)

I like it


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## steamin (Aug 26, 2012)

Good afternoon,
I had a chance to get back into my big lather this afternoon and play with the air chamber for the LaFrance. Since I do not have a radius turning attachment big enough to accommodate the radius required, I took a different approach. I made an aluminum template that resembles the profile of the air chamber. It was mounted to the tail stock of the lathe as shown in the below pictures. My magnetic base was mounted to the tool post with a indicator attached to it. The indicator rides on the template. The lathe is turned on and the carriage feed is place in gear. As the carriage moves, the trick is to keep the indicator on one particular number once you start the cutting process. I am running the lathe at 70 rpm and the carriage feed is as slow as it gets. With the slow speed and feed you can keep the indicator reading within a 0.001". Couple this with a round nose tool and a very smooth finish can be obtained and ready for sanding and polishing.
Again, thank you for your kind comments.
Till later, Larry


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## rhitee93 (Aug 26, 2012)

I'll give you a k point for that one.  Very creative solution


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## steamin (Aug 26, 2012)

Staring to look like an air chamber


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## Shopguy (Aug 26, 2012)

That sir is one slick way to machine a profile.  Beautiful work.
Ernie J


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## kutzdibutz (Aug 27, 2012)

WOW- that really is a method to remember! K-point!!
Did you do something to the inside contour? I can imagine there is hardly a chance... 
Will you support this in some sort of way? If this mass gets swinging there could be nasty cracks at the flange. 

Cheers, Karsten


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## vcutajar (Aug 27, 2012)

WoW Larry.  I would have never thought of that method.

Vince


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## ProdEng (Aug 27, 2012)

The air chamber looks fantastic and the method reminds me of a hydraulic copy lathe without the hydraulics!


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## Runner (Aug 27, 2012)

Larry excellent setup, well thought out. But tell me how did you manage the curve nearest to the chuck? I note that your cutting tool had a rounded edge, was this sufficient to go all the way in a single pass?

Brian


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## steamin (Aug 27, 2012)

Greetings, First, thank you for your kind comments and I am glad to share what I do with all of you. The bell was a bronze casting with a very, I mean, very thick wall. The inside follows the outside profile quit well, so I did not even consider machining the interior. The base was machined to size before I did any profile work except for a pilot hole that was reamed through the base smaller than the existing  top hole. I used this hole with a mandrel to realign the bell in the chuck to machine the top boss for a live center. There was almost 0.200" to take off the diameter to bring it to size. The curve next to the chuck was blended into the already machined to size diameter. So I did not have to take the tool bit all the way to the chuck jaws. I used a 3/8" square high speed tool bit with a 3/16" radius. I have used this concept of profile machining several times, twice in a Bridgeport milling machine. The concept was not originated by me, but as pointed out, resembles a hydraulic lathe profiling attachment without the hydraulics. Many years ago I had the privilege to use one of those attachments on a Hardinge HLVH lathe. It made quick work of the task at hand. I guess I have covered the bases for all of you.
Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Sep 2, 2012)

Greetings, started some work on the cylinders and steam chest. I generated a flat surface on the cylinder casting steam chest side using a carbide tip fly cutter; then clamped it back into the mill vise as shown in picture #1. Since there were no surfaces to clamp too with the movable jaw of the mill vise, I put a 1/2" diameter hardened steel dowel pin between the jaw and the cylinder casting. Then each end of the cylinder casting was machined with a fly cutter. For those who do not know what a fly cutter is, it is a tool holder that fits into the 1/2" diameter collet of the milling machine. The tool holder holds a regular lathe tool bit. The holder swings the tool bit in a wide arch cutting across the entire surface in one revolution. There are different sizes of fly cutters to accommodate different widths of surfaces to cut. 

Picture #2 shows what I ran into with the final bore size. There are inclusions in both cylinders and oddly enough in the same relative position of each casting. So I am going to bore the cylinders out a little bit more and sleeve them.

Picture #3 shows the cylinder castings and steam chest in their position on the mounting plate. The two cylinders share the steam chest. The ports of the cylinders are off set from center to accommodate both slide valves. I will show that later when I get the parts worked up. The air bell is finished and polished up quit nice. I plan to have the air bell and the boiler stack nickel plated.

Till later, Larry


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## rhitee93 (Sep 3, 2012)

Larry, that thing is going to look amazing!


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## ProdEng (Sep 3, 2012)

The pump on its own makes a fantastic model, love rotative steam pumps


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## HaydenI. (Sep 3, 2012)

Hi larry that is ammazing finish on the cyl, im new to this and will have to do something like that soon but how did you get the steam chest cover side square in the first place??
Cheers Hayden


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## steamin (Sep 3, 2012)

Hi Hayden, Thank you for your kind comment. Fly cutting a surface can give you an amazing surface. Be sure to put a small radius at the cutting point, 0.005"-0.010" should be plenty. Try the same thing by putting a small radius on your lathe tool the next time you turn something.

Now to your question; The side of the cylinder casting were pretty uniform and I was able to clamp on those surfaces with the surface in question pointing up. I took off just enough material to give me a flat surface to work with. Then I was able to clamp it in the vise as shown earlier. I would take a slight cut on one end and then inspect it to make sure that the other surfaces would fall into place when they were to be machined.

Hayden, I approach machining like playing a chess game. I am always planning my operations way in advance. I am always asking myself if I do this step now, will I be able to machine that other surface later and how will I do it. When I started my apprenticeship way back when my mentor had me write down the machining steps before I made any chips. It was amazing the mistakes i made on paper. Just some food for thought my friend..

I hope you will share your project with all of us.

Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Sep 9, 2012)

Good evening, been able to spend a few evenings this past week working on the steam cylinders and associated pieces for the LaFrance. Picture #1 shows where I am at. I still need to drill a lot of holes in the caps and do all the steam ports in the cylinders. The steam chest is to size, but needs some holes, one for the steam inlet and two for the "D" valves push rods. Picture #2 is a close up of one of the bottom cylinder caps. I am trying to show the groove that the brass cylinder wrap will sit in. The top cylinder cover will hold it in place. More about that when I get the wraps fabricated. Then I can show you exactly what I have in mind. Picture #3 shows the components in position. Picture #4 is a close up of the cylinder caps and a special acorn nuts to hold them in place.
Till later, Larry


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## SilverSanJuan (Sep 11, 2012)

Larry that's really beautiful work.  A real classy lookin' engine.

Todd


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## steamin (Sep 14, 2012)

Greetings, thought I would share a technique I use to hold a raw casting to machine those first surfaces flat, square and parallel to each other.

Picture #1 shows the "D" valve casting as received. As with any casting the sides are not straight due to the draft angle needed for the casting process.

Picture #2 shows my milling machine vise with a piece of 1/16" thick lead on each jaw. I bent a right angle to help hold the lead in place. Plus it gives a formable foundation for the casting to sit on.

Picture #3 shows the casting squeezed between the lead pieces. As I close the vise jaws I lightly tap the top of the casting with a soft face mallet to keep the casting seated against the top of the lead. Eventually the vise will tighten up and the casting will be secured in place. I machined around the perimeter first with a 3/16" end mill. FYI, use a small diameter end mill to keep the torque transfered to the work piece at a very low level. This helps to keep the work piece from climbing out of the vise; in this case, out of the lead pieces. The casting was secure enough that I was able to use a 3/8" diameter end mill to face the top of the casting.

Picture #4 shows how the lead was formed to the casting after clamping it in the vise.

Picture #5 shows the 5 surfaces I now have to work with. I will use these to machine to size the other side. Then the initial surfaces will be machined to their respective dimensions.

Till Later, Larry


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## rhitee93 (Sep 14, 2012)

Cool tip Larry!


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## steamin (Sep 16, 2012)

Greetings, been working on some of the pump components this weekend.

Picture #1 shows one of the pump pistons with one of two leather packing rings. Yes, I am going to try what they probably used in the good old days; leather packing. Leather will swell with water and seal the piston to the pump wall plus the water will act like a lubricant. The other thought is to soak the leather in steam oil. It is extremely slippery and impervious to cold water. So we will see.:brows:

Picture #2 shows the various components that make up the pump piston assembly. Again, I am using a leather washer for the packing around the shaft.

Picture #3 shows the pump housing with the piston assemblies in place.

Picture #4 is a close-up of the top of the piston shaft assembly.

Next is the 8 ball check assemblies and lots of plugs for the pump body .

Thank you for viewing and your kind comments.

Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Feb 8, 2013)

Greetings,
I have been able to devote some time to the LaFrance project over the past few weeks.
1] Drilled and tapped the holes in the cylinders.
2] Drilled the holes in the top and bottom caps.
3] Made 8 studs for bolting the cylinders and steam chest      together.
4] Turned 16 acorn nuts for the studs.
5] Fitted everything up and mounted it to the base plate.

The big thing was to make the pattern for the cylinder wrap. Once the pattern was working, then I used 0.010" thick brass shim stock for the wrap. The ends have a slight bend to tuck in behind the acorn nuts. The bottom edge is setting in a groove that was machined in the bottom cylinder cap. The top edge is held in place with the decorative cap that covers the top cylinder cap. The wrap will be polished and the LaFrace logo will be attached via double sided tape.

Till Later, Larry


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## steamin (Mar 1, 2013)

Good Evening, I had a chance to spend a few hours on the LaFrance water pump linkage this past week. 
Picture #1 shows the general components involved. To the left are the 1/8" diameter stst rod for connecting the two yokes together. To the right are pieces of 1/4" diameter brass that has a thread cover turned on each end. In this case I did the same operation to each end, thus limiting the changing of lathe tools. The little brass guys are to cover the last bit of thread that is exposed on the connecting rods. Just thought it might dress it up a bit. In the top portion of the picture is the yoke that screws onto the pump shaft with the the top yokes screwed in place. I used the bottom yoke as a jig for drilling the holes in the top of the top yoke. 
Picture #2 shows a general assembly of the bits and pieces.
Picture #3 is a close up of the brass thread covers.
Picture #4 is a mock up of the entire assembly. 
Till later,
Larry


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## vcutajar (Mar 2, 2013)

Larry

Still following you with amazement in your build.  Those parts sure look fantastic.

Vince


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## steamin (Mar 3, 2013)

Greetings,
Just a follow up on the last post with more pictures of the finished pump linkage.
Again thank you for all the kind comments. I am planning to be at the Cabin Fever Expo next month. Please do stop by and introduce yourself. It would be great to put a face to the many fine modelers that have contributed so much to this build. I will try to do the same.
Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Mar 22, 2013)

Good Evening, I had some time this week to spend on the LaFrance project. The steam engine pistons have been turned and the connecting rods mated to them (picture #1). I need to generate the piece that goes on the other end of the connecting rod and fits the wrist pin; those pieces are next. The wrist pins have been made and are in place (picture #2). The big thing was to install the engine and pump assembly into the fire engine main frame. Wow, now it is really starting to look like something. As I assemble the various reciprocating parts, it is becoming very clear that alignment of said components will be very important to a successful running engine. I will let the various pictures speak for themselves. I am trying to get a few more things accomplished on the project for the upcoming Cabin Fever Expo next month.
Till Later, Larry


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## ozzie46 (Mar 23, 2013)

Ooooohhhh that is a beauty alright. Great work.th_wavth_wavth_wav

 Ron


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## steamin (Mar 26, 2013)

Good evening,
Picture #1 shows the end of the steam cylinder piston connecting rod fitting that was made to mate up with the wrist pin. It is actually made of 2 pieces. The brass piece that screws onto the end of the connecting rod is screwed into the collar that the wrist pin goes through. They have been Loctite together.
Picture #2 shows the completed wiffle trees for the draft gear.
Picture #3 shows the wiffle trees with chains connected to the equalizer arms ready for the horses to be hitched up.
Picture #4 is a close up of one of the wiffle tree assemblies. 
Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Mar 28, 2013)

Been at it again :brows: This time it is the bracket and threaded stubs that will hold the various nozzles.
Picture #1 shows the bracket with the threaded stubs that the nozzles will screw on too.
Picture #2 is 1 of 2 nozzle extensions. It will be wrapped with white cord like the original ones. The cord/rope provided a better gripping surface for the fire fighter. 
Picture #3 shows the bracket in place on the main frame. It will be bolted in place at a later date.
Picture #4 shows how the nozzle extensions will come up right behind the drivers seat. 

The actual water nozzles will screw onto the other 3 stubs. The firemen would actually walk under the engine frame to retrieve the desired nozzle. I have seen nozzles under the floor mounted to the fifth wheel frame and under the seat on the floor boards. There was one engine that had them all lined up on a special rack on the outside of the frame. 

Anyway, till later, Larry


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## varonicaleon (Mar 29, 2013)

Thanks for share


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## steamin (Mar 29, 2013)

Nozzle Update:
Picture #1 shows the 2 nozzle extensions (tallest ones) and 3 nozzles of different lenght and orifice sizes.
Picture #2 shows the nozzle rack bolted in place and the 2 nozzle extension wrapped in white cotton cord to resemble rope that would have been wrapped on the full size extension.
Picture #3 is a top view showing how the nozzles fit behind the driver's seat. I had to move the make up water tank to the rear 3/8" to give more clearance for the nozzle bracket and nozzles.

Have a great Easter. Our Lord has risen !!!! God Bless all of you !
Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Apr 16, 2013)

Greetings, just wanted to say a "BIG Thank You" to all those that stopped by at our table at the Cabin Fever Expo this past weekend. Your comments and suggestions were greatly appreciated. It was especially nice to meet those that have been following this build on this forum.
Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Jun 30, 2013)

Good Evening,
I had a chance to spend some quality time on the LaFrance project this past week. I dis-assembled all the major components surrounding the engines and pump. I am starting with the main bearings and finishing up the details to mark it completed on the drawings and so on and so on. I will be assembling the pump/engines in a special fixture for ease of assembly. 

Picture #1
The main bearings have 4 mounting screws each. I have placed a 4-40 socket set screw opposite each mounting screw for adjusting the alignment of the bearings once they are mounted in the frame. A small oil cup has been mounted in the bearing cap. There is a .250 thick spacer between the back of the flywheel and the bearing. That is for assembly purposes only. That is where the cam will be for the feed water pump. The other flywheel will have a similar cam to operate a mechanical lubricator.
Picture #2
Instead of set screws to hold the flywheels on the crank shaft, I have threaded the end of the crank with a 3/8-32 thread and made a mating cap to screw on. On the back side of the flywheel there will be a .125" wide groove that will engage with a .125" diameter dowel pin that will be in the crank shaft. Screwing the cap on will lock the flywheel to the pin and to thus to the crank shaft. That is on my to-do list for tomorrow.
Picture #3
These are the 9 pieces that make up the crank shaft. The pieces will all be pressed together and pinned with 6/0 taper pins. No welding, no soldering, no warpage and no big messes to clean up. 
Picture #4
I started with the connecting rod journals first. I used a gage pin to help keep the pieces in alignment while pressing together and through the drilling and reaming process.
Picture #5
This was my setup for drilling the taper pin holes so the rod journals were 90 degrees apart.
Picture #6
This is an overall view of the crank, flywheels and main bearings installed in the assembly fixture.

Till Later My Friends,
Larry


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## steamin (Jul 8, 2013)

Good evening,
Spent most of the weekend and all day to day working on the LaFrance.
Picture #1 shows the eccentric for the feed water pump in place between the hub of the flywheel and main bearing.
Pictures #2&3 shows the eccentric strap with bosses to be silver soldered in place. The bosses are for attaching the arm that will operate the feed water pump and the other one will be for a oil cup. The bosses and the strap were tapped 2-56 and the pieces were held in place with 2-56 brass screws for the soldering process. After soldering, the screws were drilled out and the hole re-tapped 2-56.
Picture #4 shows the final assembly of the eccentric, strap, the link rod for the feed water pump and the oil cup.
Picture #5 is a close up view of the assembled flywheel from picture #4 in place.
Picture #5 is the middle bearing support casting all machined and in place.

I did start the feed water pump body tonight, but will post something on that at a later date.
Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Jul 22, 2013)

Good Evening,
Just came in from the shop. Thought I would share what I have been up too.
Picture #1 shows the two new suction hose connection pipes with their removable caps. The handles were made from 1/8" diameter brass stock. The ends were tapered. The hole in the cap was reamed for a nice sliding fit. A little Loctite holds them in place.
Picture #2 is the beginning of the feed water pump. I am using two 3/16" ball check valves to control the flow. They came from PM Models. Great folks !!! The valve body will be mounted to the brass plate via four 2-56 screws instead of silver soldering as the print suggestion.
Till Later, Larry


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## steamin (Jul 26, 2013)

Good Evening,
Been at it again ;D

Picture #1 shows modifying the feed water pump mounting plate. The 1/8" thick brass piece looked a little out of proportion. So the pump was mounted to the plate and a line scribed all the way around the pump body. then a 1/8" ball end mill was used to mill right up to the scribed line. The cut was a 1/16" deep. Then a 1/4" end mill was used to remove the remainder of the material.

Picture #3 shows the end result.

Picture #4 is an overall view of the feed water pump and its associated piping. A special pipe was made to go from the main pump body to the 3/16" pipe union. This eliminated several joints and cleaned up the installation. 

Picture #5 & #6 are other views of the feed water pump and associated piping. The hand valve is the feed water bypass valve. When closed it will force the water output from the feed water pump to go into the boiler.

Thank you for your interest and kind comments.
Till Later, Larry


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## xs4all (Aug 22, 2013)

ps. beautiful work you're up to here - absolutely


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## xs4all (Aug 29, 2013)

here's a lovely completed one i've found on the web. thought you might enjoy.


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## steamin (Aug 29, 2013)

Thank you for your kind comments. I am hoping to get back to my LaFrance this weekend. I have been tied up with a lot of contract work of late.

I actually had a chance to see that LaFrance model in person at the Cabin Fever Expo 3 years ago.. It is very well built and follows the detailed drawings almost to the letter. It is for sale. It needs a good home and a lot of TLC. 

Thank you for bringing it to my attention.
God Bless, Larry


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## xs4all (Aug 29, 2013)

i'm so impressed to hear you've actually seen this one and can attest to its quality. funny thing is, the individual wants 16,000.00 for it and i got him down to 8,000.00 (which surprised the heck out of me), but shipping and import charges put it out of my budget. i'm thinking i should have tried harder now 

thank you for the prompt feedback.

what a treat to see one of these beauties being constructed by a master. i'm so in awe. i'm a neophyte metal machinist and i aspire to the quality i see in your work. thank you again.

//frank


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## steamin (Aug 29, 2013)

Frank, thank you again for your kindness.. Let me say this about the value of a model. It is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it and what the seller is willing to sell it for. The $16K is a small drop in the bucket for what the modeler has in the project as far as time and materials.

I have been keeping track of my time and materials for my LaFrance project. Thus far, I have $77K invested. Now most of that is my labor of love at the $45./hour shop rate I charge for my contract work.. Plus I have been doing a lot of free lance work on the model over and beyond what the drawings call for. So that has driven the labor hours up.

As I mentioned earlier, it is a labor of love and a way to be alone with my thoughts and my Lord. I give Him all the praise and glory for what I am able to accomplish.

Peace be with you and all,
Larry


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## xs4all (Aug 29, 2013)

agreed.

this model is being sold by a merchant on ebay, and as i've mentioned in another thread, if this were the actual builders asking price, i would never have offered 1/2 - this would be a terrible insult indeed. if i had the spare cash to burn i would be sitting at home staring at this beauty right now 

god bless, dear fellow


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## steamin (Dec 29, 2013)

Greetings my friends,
I know it has been a while since my last post, but a lot has been happening here at the DuFour house hold. My wife's mother has been living with us for over 25 years. She took ill last summer and then needed 24/7 care for the last couple of months. My wife and I had to play tag team to look after her. She passed away the week before Thanksgiving in our arms. What an awesome lady she was.. Then I had surgery on my left thumb 6 weeks ago. So, I am just now getting back into the shop to play again. 

I have been working on the pump body and cover plates. Some more filing and sanding need to be done on the body in prep for painting. the cover plates have the first coat of red paint on them.

Picture #1 shows some of the rods and links for the steam engine to the pump pistons. I finally tackled the connecting rods. Now it is all hand work. I need to wait till my left thumb gets a little bit better before I begin that phase. I have a few clearance issues only because of my embellishments on some parts. Nothing drastic. 
Picture #2 shows the prototype check valve for the pump.
Picture #3 shows the 4 components that make up the check valve. The check ball cage screws into cap. enough threads are exposed to then screw into the pump cover plates. The balls and springs are stainless steel. Now I need to make 8 more. 
A belated Merry Christmas to all of you and now a Happy New Year. 
Till later, Larry


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## xs4all (Jan 3, 2014)

lovely indeed.

welcome back


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## Rivergypsy (Jan 3, 2014)

Very nice work as usual!

 Happy new year, and my condolences on your loss.

 Dave


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## vcutajar (Jan 3, 2014)

Hi Larry.

Glad to see you back with a new update.

Vince


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## Shopguy (Jan 3, 2014)

Might I add my condolences on your loss.  Welcome back, New Years greetings and a comment on your beautiful model of a piece of history. 
I enjoy seeing your work as it progresses and find it an inspiration.
Thanks for continued posting.
Ernie Johnson


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## steamin (Jan 6, 2014)

Good evening all and a chilly one at that,
I have a little more to share. First I want to share some of my gasket cutting tools. 
Picture #1 shows the basics. I bought a small cutting board at the Dollar Store. The telescoping brass tubes with handles is a set of old fashion "cork borers" used in a chemistry laboratory to bore holes in corks for glass tubing to slip through. They are still available through "McMaster-Carr". Same thing can be had by using the telescoping brass tubing that you can buy at the hobby store. Just bevel the outside edge to make a sharp edge. There is a 1/8" diameter circle punch that was used to make the screw holes. Tandy Leather has a great selection of quality hole punches. 
Picture #2 shows the check valve ball seating tool. A ball was placed in the check valve cavity. The tool was then placed in the cavity and over the ball. A couple of light taps with a small ball peen hammer created a nice seat for the ball to seal against.
Picture #3 shows the top and bottom cover plates with gaskets. The check ball cages have been screwed in along with the packing glands for the pump piston rods. I am planning to use graphite impregnated cotton string in the grooves on the pump pistons.  
Picture #4 shows all the major components of the pump assembled.
Now I need to order some stainless steel hardware and make a lot of stainless washers. Oh, what fun 
Thank you all for your kind comments. It is greatly appreciated.
Till Later, Laurence


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## xs4all (Apr 10, 2015)

wow, just spectacular


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## jkarol (Aug 21, 2021)

I know this article is several years old but I just came across it. I have always wanted to build this model but now Coles Power Models is out of business. Do you still have the drawing set and bill of materials. Would you be willing to sell them or a copy of the drawings.
Regards, Jim Karol


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## Bob Wild (Aug 21, 2021)

Hi Larry.

Only just found your thread, and see a lot of similarities with my current project ( Merryweather Fire King - a novice build)

I've been wondering for ages how to make the tapered spoked wheels - and now you have shown me how to do it! Thanks and a fabulous model.

Bob


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## steamin (Aug 21, 2021)

It has been 10 years this month that I started this project. A lot has happened in my personal life that has kept me out of the shop. These past few years I have been able to spend more time on the Lafrance project and I feel like I am beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I hope to be pumping water by this coming Thanksgiving. A lot of detail work has been accomplished, like the suction and high pressure hoses are complete along with the brackets to hold them on the engine frame work. Pump connecting rods, engine connecting rods and lots more.. I did have a chance to run the engine on air. It was rather interesting setting the “D” valves that you can not see and are in the same steam chest. The first picture shows the pump linkage evolved. The second picture shows the exhaust manifold in process. The third picture shows the exhaust manifold in place. The connecting nipples have right hand threads on one end and left hand threads on the other end. That way I can attached the manifold. The forth picture is the beginning of machining the eccentric connecting rod on a jig plate.
Till Later, Larry


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## steamin (Aug 21, 2021)

The first and second pictures shows setting up the eccentric straps for boring. I placed a long shaft between a center hole on the casting and a live center in the tail stock.. Then mounted a dial indicator on t he shaft close to the 4 jaw chuck. As I rotated the chuck I would adjust the jaws until I got zero all the way around. The third picture is a shot of the steam chest with the “D” valve stems and gland nuts.


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## steamin (Aug 21, 2021)

Here is a short video of the engine running on air. Like I said, it was a very interesting process setting the “D” valve timing..




Your browser is not able to display this video.


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## steamin (Aug 21, 2021)

OK ! Moving right along. The first picture shows the exhaust nozzle and blower ring in place.Second photo shows the steam control valve to the engines and associated plumbing. The third picture shows the steam oil displacement lubricator, located on the opposite side from the steam control valve. The forth picture show my setup of the boiler funnel for drilling the exhaust pipe hole and blower ring supply pipe. Boy did I check and recheck and did more checking before I drilled.


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## steamin (Aug 21, 2021)

Next was the boiler support rods that tied to the side frames and engine mounts. I started with a piece of 3/8” square bar stock. This way I could have a clevis at one end and a flat tab at the other end. The first three pictures show this process. I had to weld mating angle brackets on the boiler to fasten the support rods too. The forth picture shows a special bracket made to help support the steam control valve. Originally the handle was well buried in the mechanics of the engine. I wanted it out where I could get to it. The fifth picture shows the engine mount to frame support rod.


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## steamin (Aug 21, 2021)

Up next was the support brackets for the suction and high pressure hoses. The original LaFrance engine had 2 suction hoses. One mounted on each side of the engine. The one high pressure hose mounted on the curb side of the engine. In future displaying of the model I will need two high pressure hoses, so I made brackets for 2 high pressure hoses on the curb side and brackets for 2 suction hosed on the road side of the engine. The first 2 pictures show a jig I made out of “Transited” for soldering the pieces together. I bored a piece of bras to the appropriate ID and tuned it down to give me a .050” wall. The the tube was slit 2 places length wise 180 degrees apart. Then .312” lengths were cut to give me a half circle that the rubber tubing would lay in. Pieces of .062” OD by .032” ID brass tubing placed at the top edge of each cradle. The tubing will give me a place for the rings that the leather straps will attach too. The third and forth pictures is a finished bracket. While the fifth and sixth pictures show how the suction hoses fit in the brackets.


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## steamin (Aug 21, 2021)

The hose connections started out as purchased brass hose barbs, male pipe to the appropriate hose size. The barbs were turned down slightly and a brass ferrel was made to compress the rubber hose on the barb. The other end was machined to suit the swivel connection.. Other pieces were made to give me a male and female rotating connectors. hopefully the following pictures will give you an idea of what I did.


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## steamin (Aug 24, 2021)

Greetings, been working on the discharge valves from the pump. Started out with a .750” diameter brass ball for the valve body. Drilled a .375” diameter hole through the ball and soldered a piece of 3/8” diameter brass bar in place. Then machined the assembly as if it were a casting. One end has the 1/4” METP thread to screw into the pump. The other end has the 3/8-32 threads for connecting to the high pressure hose.


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## a41capt (Aug 24, 2021)

Larry, your work is beyond spectacular!  11 years of building on a piece of machinery and all of it beautiful.  As a retired 42 year firefighter that spent most of those years fighting fire off of American LaFrance engines, your steamer has found a place in my heart.  The Phoenix (Arizona) Fire Department, where I was a firefighter, had two steamers back in the day.  One was a two horse rig and the other a full on three horse rig and lovingly cared for through their lives.  Unfortunately, when World War Two came along, they were surrendered to the scrap drive and all that’s left are pictures…

John W


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## jkarol (Aug 24, 2021)

Larry, I just came across this thread it. What great craftsmanship! I have always wanted to build this model but now Coles Power Models is out of business. Do you still have the drawing set, bill of materials, etc. Would you be willing to sell them or a copy of the drawings?
Regards, Jim Karol


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## steamin (Aug 24, 2021)

jkarol said:


> Larry, I just came across this thread it. What great craftsmanship! I have always wanted to build this model but now Coles Power Models is out of business. Do you still have the drawing set, bill of materials, etc. Would you be willing to sell them or a copy of the drawings?
> Regards, Jim Karol


Yes, I will be glad to help out anyway I can. Shall I get a cost estimate of all the paperwork for you ??


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## steamin (Aug 24, 2021)

a41capt said:


> Larry, your work is beyond spectacular!  11 years of building on a piece of machinery and all of it beautiful.  As a retired 42 year firefighter that spent most of those years fighting fire off of American LaFrance engines, your steamer has found a place in my heart.  The Phoenix (Arizona) Fire Department, where I was a firefighter, had two steamers back in the day.  One was a two horse rig and the other a full on three horse rig and lovingly cared for through their lives.  Unfortunately, when World War Two came along, they were surrendered to the scrap drive and all that’s left are pictures…
> 
> John W


Sir John, you are very kind with your words. When I read your post I got chills running up and down my back. Being able to share the talents my Lord has blessed me with is what my model making is all about. Then to help bring back fond and very special memories for someone through my creativity makes it extra special for me. Again, thank you for your kind comments and God Bless,
Larry


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## steamin (Aug 25, 2021)

steamin said:


> Sir John, you are very kind with your words. When I read your post I got chills running up and down my back. Being able to share the talents my Lord has blessed me with is what my model making is all about. Then to help bring back fond and very special memories for someone through my creativity makes it extra special for me. Again, thank you for your kind comments and God Bless,
> Larry


Question: the hose that the firemen used to fight the fire, how was it transported ??


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## Aussie (Aug 25, 2021)

Gentlemen;  

As a Retired Career Firefighter, from the Antipodes   _(a.k.a.  Australia,)_  We tend to do things a bit differently, down here.

However, in my retirement, as an Archivist / Researcher, for the Fire Services Museum of Victoria, I can offer the following:

1./  The hose was carried on a seperate Hose Wagon, or Reel.  

2./  Depending on the era, the hose being used would have been stitched and riveted leather, later replaced by woven canvas.

3./  The steamers, due to weight, were horse drawn, by between one, and three horses, depending on size.   The three horse hitch was largely a North American practice, most other places using the two horse hitch.

4./  The hose wagons / reels were drawn by one, or two horses.  Although smaller reels were located in out stations, and manually drawn to fires, as required.

One of these days, when I catch up to all my other projects, I might get back in to my shed, and complete my Shane Mason Steamer model.

Respectfully

Ian  Munro   _A.F.S.M.,  M.I.Fire.E.
Senior Station Officer  -  Retired.
Metropolitan Fire Brigade
Melbourne._


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## Bob Wild (Aug 25, 2021)

Great. First you show me how to make the wheels and now the hose fittings. I’m still puzzled as to how to make the hoses. From the photos I’ve seen on the Fire King there is a hose permanently connected to the pump which runs down the side of the engine and round the front.
Bob


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## a41capt (Aug 26, 2021)

Aussie said:


> Gentlemen;
> 
> As a Retired Career Firefighter, from the Antipodes   _(a.k.a.  Australia,)_  We tend to do things a bit differently, down here.
> 
> ...



Ian,

First and foremost, hello Brother from a 42 year retired firefighter!

Here in the states, they still use hand-drawn hose carts for competition. The “Muster” is a series of competitions consisting of hose cart race, bucket brigade, “make and break” (lay out the hose, charge the line, knock down an object with the hose stream, and break the couplings), ground ladder raise, and many many more events. These events are very competitive because, as you well know, firefighters would rather take a beating than lose at anything, so lots of injuries of course!!!

These gatherings are also where departments roll out their antique apparatus to show off, sometimes a steamer will show up, and the operating ones always draw a huge crowd.

Do you folks do anything similar?

John W


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## LorenOtto (Aug 26, 2021)

a41capt said:


> Ian,
> 
> First and foremost, hello Brother from a 42 year retired firefighter!
> 
> ...


Some years ago my wife's uncle was a fireman with the Long Beach, California Fire Department and he invited us to a "Muster" held at Dodger Stadium in Los Angeles.  What a hoot!  Huge crowd - lots of water on everybody.  Thanks for the memories.


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## steamin (Aug 29, 2021)

Thank you to all who have shared some great information and stories of past musters. Some time ago a gentleman from New York shared a story how an American LaFrance shot water higher and further than any of the modern day fire fighting equipment on hand. Thank you again for your input. Spent this afternoon and evening finalizing the plumbing of the pump body. Sure glad I keep notes. What I did many years ago sure did not make much sense at first. But my notes and sketches came through for me. The pictures below shows the jungle of pipes and valves. I will make up a sketch sometime that will explain all the valves function and piping runs. Till later, Larry


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## Aussie (Sep 1, 2021)

a41capt  &  LorenOtto;

Apology, for the delay, I don’t trawl the form every day, then see something, I’ll reply to, but get distracted.

Yes, in Victoria, and some other States, Reel Running is a summer competition.  Although, there is a slow move to include motor events, in tandem.

The various Districts run competitions throughout the summer, leading to the State Championships, in March.  There are also parallel Junior, and Rural Championships, as well.

The actual events vary from a one day picnic, to a weekend carnival, but rarely a full on  “Muster”,  of the type you are familiar with.  Most of the Championships usually also include a  “Torchlight”  parade, in the evening of one of the days.

Respectfully

Ian


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## steamin (Sep 1, 2021)

Aussie said:


> Gentlemen;
> 
> As a Retired Career Firefighter, from the Antipodes   _(a.k.a.  Australia,)_  We tend to do things a bit differently, down here.
> 
> ...





Aussie said:


> a41capt  &  LorenOtto;
> 
> Apology, for the delay, I don’t trawl the form every day, then see something, I’ll reply to, but get distracted.
> 
> ...


Ian, great read. Thank you. Sounds like the gatherings we have here in the states of old tractor and steam traction engines and anything else that is steam related. I looked up the “Stand Mason” steam pumper. What a great looking piece of equipment. Glad to see that it is well documented. I do hope you can get back to your model of it soon. I know it will be awesome. Till later, Larry


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## steamin (Jan 23, 2022)

First, I want to say thank you to all for your interest and kind comments on this build. Once again I am back at it and hoping to get this project completed by Spring. I had targeted this past thanksgiving to have the engine pumping water, but that just did not happen. To many other obligations. As mentioned in my last post, I have attached a picture of the pump assemble with notions.. The following are the explanations of the various pipes and valves.
A] is the boiler feed water line.
B] is the suction hose connections. There is one on each side of the pump body.
C] is a discharge valve. There is one on each side of the pump body and one in the middle.
D] controls the water flow from the makeup water storage tank locate behind the seat.
E] is the feed water pump.
F] is the water pump bypass valve. Closing this valve forces the water to go to the discharge valves and subsequently threw the discharge hoses. I need to make sure that valve is open before opening the steam valve to the engine.
G] is the boiler feed water control valve. Closing this valve will force water into the feed water pipe “A”..


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## steamin (Jan 23, 2022)

Greetings all, well I have been in the process of disassembly the fire engine over the past few months as time allows starting with the water pump and its associated pieces. Some parts will be painted red, some I would like to be bright nickel finish and some will be polished brass. The only problem with this scheme is I am not willing to put the parts I want nickel plated into someone else’s hands. So I went to YouTube to see how I might be able to nickel plate at home. There was several video on how to Make nickel plating solution using vinegar and a strip of pure nickel.. I had no success with that process. So I bought some nickel plating solution already made up.. The instructions on the bottle gave the temperature the solution should be, voltage to be used and soak time of the piece part. I started out using a glass beaker for the plating process. After the solution had reached 115 degrees Fahrenheit, I placed the beaker on a magnetic stirrer to keep the solution in motion. Then the positive side of a DC power source was attached to a pure piece of nickel and placed it in the solution. This becomes the “anode” of the process. Then the negative side of the DC power supply was attached to the piece I wanted plated. The piece part becomes the cathode. Then the magic begins to happen. After 90 seconds the part was pulled from the solution and rinsed off with distilled water. After a few success, I graduated to a 1-1/2 gallon bath as shown in the picture. One of the key items to a great plating job is the cleaning process of the piece part and have a good polished surface to plate. My cleaning process consist of polishing the part with 320-400 grit wet/dry sand paper, a good rub down with “Simichrome Polish”, then wash with “Acetone” using paper towels. Then there is a final wash using a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and hydrochloric acid, then rinse with distilled water again. Of course this is all done wearing rubber gloves.. If anyone has questions, I will be glad to answer if I can. I have included a couple of pictures of some of the parts I have nickel plated.
Till later, Larry


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## LaFrance4 (Jun 27, 2022)

steamin said:


> Greetings all, well I have been in the process of disassembly the fire engine over the past few months as time allows starting with the water pump and its associated pieces. Some parts will be painted red, some I would like to be bright nickel finish and some will be polished brass. The only problem with this scheme is I am not willing to put the parts I want nickel plated into someone else’s hands. So I went to YouTube to see how I might be able to nickel plate at home. There was several video on how to Make nickel plating solution using vinegar and a strip of pure nickel.. I had no success with that process. So I bought some nickel plating solution already made up.. The instructions on the bottle gave the temperature the solution should be, voltage to be used and soak time of the piece part. I started out using a glass beaker for the plating process. After the solution had reached 115 degrees Fahrenheit, I placed the beaker on a magnetic stirrer to keep the solution in motion. Then the positive side of a DC power source was attached to a pure piece of nickel and placed it in the solution. This becomes the “anode” of the process. Then the negative side of the DC power supply was attached to the piece I wanted plated. The piece part becomes the cathode. Then the magic begins to happen. After 90 seconds the part was pulled from the solution and rinsed off with distilled water. After a few success, I graduated to a 1-1/2 gallon bath as shown in the picture. One of the key items to a great plating job is the cleaning process of the piece part and have a good polished surface to plate. My cleaning process consist of polishing the part with 320-400 grit wet/dry sand paper, a good rub down with “Simichrome Polish”, then wash with “Acetone” using paper towels. Then there is a final wash using a 50/50 mixture of distilled water and hydrochloric acid, then rinse with distilled water again. Of course this is all done wearing rubber gloves.. If anyone has questions, I will be glad to answer if I can. I have included a couple of pictures of some of the parts I have nickel plated.
> Till later, Larry
> 
> As you can see by the photos that a lot of parts are in small containers to keep the various assemblies together. Also is a picture of the drawing rack for the painted parts. Maybe one day soon, it will all come together as a completed model.
> Till later, Larry


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## LaFrance4 (Jul 7, 2022)

Well, I have started the final assembly of the LaFrance engine. Here are a couple of pictures to show you where I am at in the process. Since I could not find anyone to pinstripe the model component parts, I am using gold colored sticky back vinyl cut into 1/16” wide strips. Still looking for some fancy scroll designs that might work on the model.
I would like to take this opportunity to say a Big Thank You to all of you that has been following this build and to those who shared personal experiences with full size pumpers. They sure were great stories.  Certainly do not want to forget those that have given me suggestions and constructive criticisms. All of you are the best of the best. Till later and God Bless all of you. Larry


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## a41capt (Jul 7, 2022)

Your attention to detail is fantastic!  As a young firefighter, and later fire engineer, I spent many hours under our older fire engines (early 50s Seagraves, American LaFrance, and others) cleaning and degreasing/regreasing I found much evidence of the love and care of our engines.  Those earlier engineers and firefighters not only waxed and polished the paint down to bare metal on the topside, but also went so far as to pinstripe and decorate the underside as well as what was found on the topside.

Frame and suspension members, pump components, unexposed engine surfaces… all beautifully striped and cared for with pride by dedicated fire engineers of the past.  I’ve also been under modern engines, and have found no such decoration. Modern engines are called upon to respond dozens of times per day leaving no time for such undercarriage decoration.  As a Fire Captain/Paramedic on a busy engine company (15 to 24 calls per 24 hour shift), we seldom had time for a meal, let alone time to embellish our principle tool that had been tasked with a mission of saving lives and fighting fire.  I miss the days of seeing those pieces of long gone artwork, and I celebrate your dedication to the promotion of the beauty found in my past career.  Thank you sir, I salute your dedication and careful work celebrating our history.

Perhaps my favorite quote says: 
"I can think of no more stirring symbol of man's humanity to man than a fire engine". ~ 
Kurt Vonnegut


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## LaFrance4 (Jul 7, 2022)

Thank you Kurt for your kind words and the insights to times gone by. What great memories you have. Thank you for sharing. You and others that have shared so many memories has made this project a true blessing for me. 
Till later, Larry


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## a41capt (Jul 7, 2022)

LaFrance4 said:


> Thank you Kurt for your kind words and the insights to times gone by. What great memories you have. Thank you for sharing. You and others that have shared so many memories has made this project a true blessing for me.
> Till later, Larry


Actually, Kurt Vonnegut is a famous American author. My name is John, a not so famous retired professional firefighter (42 years, finally retiring as a Fire Chief in 2017) and a lackluster home shop machinist apprentice!

John W


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## william_b_noble (Jul 7, 2022)

steamin said:


> Greetings, I just found this awesome website. There sure is a lot of great items being built and a wealth of information available. So I thought I would jump into the middle of the pond and share what I have been working on for the past 16 months. I purchased the drawings and castings from Coles Power Models for the American LaFrance Steam Pumper. The attached picture is where I am at in the build. Since I am not a purist at heart, I have taken some liberties as to the overall look of the unit. I have seen several full size units and have several reference books. So I am taking those items of interest and incorporating them into my custom made Fire Pumper. I will be glad to post additional pictures and building techniques I use as time permits and if interested. By the same token, I am very open to constructive criticism and will be glad to read any comments. Larry



there was a time when I was a member of AAW and webmaster for a nearby wood turning club (GWG), we made that exact fire engine out of wood as an entry in the annual contest and won first prize.  My part was the seat - that was fun, there was a lot of wood bending in the seat and the supports under it


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## LaFrance4 (Jul 8, 2022)

Absolutely beautiful !! Thank you for sharing.


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## LaFrance4 (Jul 13, 2022)

Greetings, I thought I would share where I am at with the LaFrance project. Need to put stripes on the back of the right wheel and put stripes on the left wheel. Then I can work assembling the rear axle and suspension.


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## LaFrance4 (Jul 25, 2022)

Greetings, some more pictures of where I am at with the LaFrance project. Was able to finish the rear suspension this afternoon. Next is the assembly of the pump and associated plumbing.


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## ajoeiam (Jul 26, 2022)

LaFrance4 said:


> Greetings, some more pictures of where I am at with the LaFrance project. Was able to finish the rear suspension this afternoon. Next is the assembly of the pump and associated plumbing.


curious as to your method/technique as related to welding on the 'features' on the 'tank' (not sure as to what to call it - - - the black cylinder) - - please?


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## LaFrance4 (Jul 26, 2022)

Absolutely, the black cylinder is the boiler for the steam engines that will operate the positive displacement pump. I used TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding techniques. The entire boiler is made of steel except for the flu tubes. They are copper and “rolled” into place. Various bushings were made for the many fittings that will be on the boiler. The bushings were also TIG welded into place. I hope this answers you question.


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## ajoeiam (Jul 27, 2022)

LaFrance4 said:


> Absolutely, the black cylinder is the boiler for the steam engines that will operate the positive displacement pump. I used TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding techniques. The entire boiler is made of steel except for the flu tubes. They are copper and “rolled” into place. Various bushings were made for the many fittings that will be on the boiler. The bushings were also TIG welded into place. I hope this answers you question.


Thanks!!


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## minh-thanh (Jul 27, 2022)

A great project


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## LaFrance4 (Jul 31, 2022)

Good evening, some more pictures to view. This time they are of the assembled pump and the pump mounted in the main frame of the engine. The first two pictures are of a check valve. There are 8 altogether.


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