# Sideshaft i.c. Horizontal engine



## Brian Rupnow (Mar 19, 2019)

You fellows may remember---When I was chasing down helical gears for the sideshaft hit and miss engine I built, I bought a pair with 2:1 ratio off Ebay for $12.00 which is about $90 less than I paid for a set made in USA. I used the made in USA gears from Debolt to build my engine, but had the Ebay Chinese gears left over. I watched a YouTube video of an Edgar Westbury engine called the "Centaur" and was very impressed with the valve and sideshaft arrangement on it. Grandma was right--Idle hands truly are the devil's workshop. I was bored this week, so I've been messing around designing another sideshaft engine which uses the Chinese helical gears, and a valve arrangement similar to the Centaur engine. It's not a hit and miss engine--just a 4 cycle open crankshaft engine with a throttled carburetor. I might never build it, but it is interesting.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 19, 2019)

The engine has a 1" bore and a 1.375" stroke and is air cooled. I will probably design a fan on the side opposite from the sideshaft and drive it with an o-ring drive belt from the crankshaft.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 19, 2019)

The main chassis of the engine is interesting. It is hogged out of a block of 2" thick 6061 aluminum.


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## werowance (Mar 19, 2019)

looks like you are going to use 2 cams,  1 for intake and 1 for exhaust instead of atmospheric intake?


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 19, 2019)

This is a link to a working model of the Centaur engine.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 19, 2019)

Werowance--Yes there will be a cam for the exhaust and also a cam to operate the intake. The intake will no longer be "atmospheric". A valve is considered as "atmospheric" only when it depends on atmospheric pressure to open it.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 20, 2019)

Of course, if you have an air cooled cylinder, it's always a good idea to have a cooling fan. I dug around in my "odds and ends" drawer and found the perfect size plastic fan. I also dug around in my aluminum box and found a scrap of 2" aluminum large enough to make the main engine body from, and a piece of 3/4" material large enough to make a base. I spent a couple of hours this morning putting in all of the tapped holes and clearance holes to put this thing together.


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## dethrow55 (Mar 20, 2019)

wow thats nice sounds great.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 20, 2019)

Here is a link to the gears on Ebay. They are brand new.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1M-30T-15T...hash=item44318da3d4:m:msI2ys09LGNo7RpCbMsH8Dg


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 20, 2019)

I've just done one of those things that drive machinists crazy. This main chassis for the engine is up on my mill right now, and I've just realized something about the counterbores for the ball bearings. The counterbores won't be put in until the bearing caps are made up and bolted into place. I don't see any way to machine it like this. I can open the hole to full size on one side and then fit the boring bar down thru it to counterbore the other side, but unless I'm missing something I can't put a counterbore in both sides.  Its not critical that it have the web left in the side of the hole to back up the ball bearing, but it would have been nice. I know I could resort to some old time voodoo and mount it to the lathe saddle and make up a boring bar that gets assembled in place to do the counterbores, but I prefer not to do that.


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## Lloyd-ss (Mar 21, 2019)

How about something like these back spotfacers from Travers.

https://www.travers.com/high-speed-steel-reverse-spotfacers-bayonet-lock-pilot-arbors/p/108779/?lite=true&pricelistname=SITE&keyword=backspotfacers&hawkdym=back spotfacer&hawks=1

I was actually looking for the kind of counterbore tool that has a single shaft/shank, and various cutter heads slip onto the shank. In your application, the bare shank would go in thru one side first,  and then the cutter would be installed on the shank to do the back work on the other bearing saddle. They might be cheaper and sturdier than the back spot facers.

P.S. And all this because you had a couple of cheap right angle helical gears left over? Somethings not right, but I understand, LOL.


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## TonyM (Mar 21, 2019)

The retaining lips only need to be enough to stop the outer race moving. Make the bore as large as possible and that will give you the flexibility to bore the bearing dia  with an adjustable boring bar in the mill.


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## gartof (Mar 21, 2019)

Lloyd-ss said:


> How about something like these back spotfacers from Travers.
> 
> https://www.travers.com/high-speed-steel-reverse-spotfacers-bayonet-lock-pilot-arbors/p/108779/?lite=true&pricelistname=SITE&keyword=backspotfacers&hawkdym=back spotfacer&hawks=1
> 
> ...



I have use a system like this but with a countersink on a 1/8 mandrel. Worked great
Gary.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 21, 2019)

That didn't go too badly at all. I have a multitude of holes to tap, and I'm still thinking about the counterbore issue, but I like the way the piece turned out. About 90% of it was "Lay out the shape on a piece of 2" material, bandsaw close to the line, then mill to the line".  Tomorrow I will think some more about the counterbores and tap all the holes.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 21, 2019)

I've figured out the counterbore. I can do both sides with a brazed carbide boring tool in my boring head. The crankshaft is 3/8" diameter. The clearance hole around the shaft is going to get opened out to 5/8" diameter. The counterbore for the bearing is 0.906" diameter. The shank on the brazed carbide boring tool is .425" diameter. The only part that of this that sucks a bit is that I can't do both sides in one set-up. I have a 5/8" reamer which will be used to put the clearance hole thru all. That way I can "pick up" on the reamed hole when I flip the part over to do the other side.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 22, 2019)

Todays work involved tapping all the holes I had drilled yesterday in the main chassis and fabricating a pair of bearing caps. Those bearing caps have a lot more work in them than you would think at a casual glance. Why is the half hole in the bearing caps a different size than the half hole in the main frame?--That comes from making changes on the fly and not writing them down on the drawing as I do them. It doesn't really matter. They are clearance holes around the crankshaft and still have to be drilled out to a larger size before things are finished. Tomorrow I will tackle the bores and counterbores. Every fifteen minutes I have a different plan on how I'm going to do it--Probably won't know myself until I'm actually doing it.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 23, 2019)

So--Here we have the main chassis and baseplate set up in the milling vice. The top hole has been drilled thru and reamed to 0.750". The bottom hole (which will be on the sideshaft side of the engine) has been drilled and reamed to 0.4375" diameter.  The boring tool fits down thru the .750" clearance hole and has counterbored a 0.906" diameter hole x 0.312" deep into the inside face, to hold the ball bearing.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 24, 2019)

I'm not really sure of what it is I'm doing, but that has never stopped me before. To put the counterbore in the other side of the engine chassis, I need some kind of "setting master" to set the boring tool to the diameter I require. I don't have any practical way to do that when the boring tool is in the part, so I will do it in the lathe. I have just turned a "setting master" from mild steel, one end of which is bored to the size required for the bearing and the other end turned to be about 0.010" smaller than the 7/16" hole which the boring tool must pass thru. It will become clearer as I post more pictures.---I hope!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 24, 2019)

So--Here we have me setting the boring bar (held in the headstock chuck) to the inside diameter of the "setting master" which is held in the tailstock chuck. Also a picture of the counterbore cut into the second side of the engine chassis. It worked out perfectly.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 24, 2019)

And last but not least, the two sealed ball bearings at home in their counterbores. You will note that the non sideshaft side has a much larger clearance hole than the sideshaft side. That is because with the large clearance hole cut into the side of the chassis for one of the helical gears, I didn't want to take any more material away than I absolutely had to.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 24, 2019)

I found a piece of 1144 stress-proof steel big enough to turn a one piece crankshaft from. I'm thinking about bolt on counterweights. The model I show here is doable, but I'm not terribly impressed by the look of it. Has anyone seen bolt on counterweights on another model?  If so a picture would be appreciated.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 25, 2019)

Here we have the first video related to this engine, showing the action of my $12 helical gears from China. I am very pleased with the action, and more than pleased with the price. The gears are made in China and sold thru Ebay. They are metric "modulus" gears rather than diametral pitch gears, but that means very little to me as they only have to mesh with each other.


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## werowance (Mar 25, 2019)

bolt on crank weights from this thread

https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/water-cooled-webster.23224/page-6
was actually considering doing this on my Webster when I get to that point


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 25, 2019)

Dang--I knew I'd seen bolt on weights before. Didn't know it was on one of my engines from a few years ago. Thanks Werowance.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 25, 2019)

The camshaft housing has a 1" long oilite bronze bushing in each end. The shaft is 3/8" diameter, the hole inside the square piece is 1/2" diameter. There is an oil hole to squirt a bit of oil into the cavity to keep the oilite bushings lubricated. I finally had to break down and spend some money today--beyond the cost of the $12 helical gears. I was right out of 2" diameter cast iron to make the cylinder from, so I bought a 12" length today at my local metal suppliers for $45.00. I only need about 1/3 of the length I bought for this engine, but I'm sure there will be more engines in future.


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## Johno1958 (Mar 25, 2019)

Good day Brian .
Really liking your engine and those bolt on crank weights . Those helical gears look perfect and for 12 bucks!!
Cheers
John


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## CFLBob (Mar 26, 2019)

Brian, could you private message me?  I tried to start a "conversation" about two weeks ago. 

Bob


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 26, 2019)

Oh Yeah---we got cast iron cylinder!!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 26, 2019)

CFL BOB---One of the big determining features of building your first i.c. engine is whether or not you have gear cutting knowledge or gear cutters. If you don't, then you are pretty well stuck with building an engine which you can buy gears for. The Webster is a great engine, because the gears for it are sold commercially. All of my gear cutters are 24 DP, so if you build one of my engines, you must be able to either cut 24DP gears or be able to cross reference them to a different DP number, and you may not be able to buy them commercially.---Brian


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## CFLBob (Mar 26, 2019)

Brian Rupnow said:


> CFL BOB---One of the big determining features of building your first i.c. engine is whether or not you have gear cutting knowledge or gear cutters. If you don't, then you are pretty well stuck with building an engine which you can buy gears for. The Webster is a great engine, because the gears for it are sold commercially. All of my gear cutters are 24 DP, so if you build one of my engines, you must be able to either cut 24DP gears or be able to cross reference them to a different DP number, and you may not be able to buy them commercially.---Brian



"... whether or not you have gear cutting knowledge or gear cutters."  Unfortunately, that would be no and no.  

That's a hill I should climb some day, but I do tend to get impatient when I'm building things, so stopping to learn a new skill set is probably not the best idea.  I'm working on that impatience, too.  

Right now, with my wife on a walker and me doing _every_thing around house, shop time is close to zero for another several weeks.  This is a good time to gather information and read background info.  There's a lot of good looking modifications to the Webster on YouTube.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 26, 2019)

I had a piece of 1144 stressproof long enough to make a crankshaft from. Since you can only buy this stuff in rounds, I always find it difficult to machine the first side flat as seen in the picture. Today I made up a wooden "fence" to mount on my bandsaw, and trimmed the first side off, then mounted it in my mill and took it down to size. Now that I have one flat side, I can mount that flat side to my mill table and mill down the opposite side to end up with a piece of bar stock.  With a steel straight edge held against the flat side now, there is no visible warping or bending. If you tried that with a piece of cold rolled, or even A36 mild steel, it would look like a banana now.--I did find out one other thing today about my gears--they are hardened. Harder than the devil's horn. I was going to open the crankshaft gear out to 3/8", but I tried it with a file first, and a file just skates off it.  Not wanting to ruin a drill or reamer, I decided to leave it at 8mm. They come with a stock bore of 8 millimeters (0.3150"). The only real difference that makes to me is that the flywheel on the gear side will have to have an 8 mm bore.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 26, 2019)

CFLBob--Have a look here.--Brian
https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/anybody-want-to-guess.7687/


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 27, 2019)

Now we have the round 1144 stressproof steel reduced to a flat-bar. The edges are still rounded, but that's okay. I had to remove a 3/8" depth of material from the rounded side. I can only comfortably take a 0.015" depth of cut in steel with my mill, so that's a lot of cranking back and forth. There is a little tip in this picture. If your milling vice is narrow like mine is at 3" and you are concerned about setting up a longer piece to keep it perfectly parallel to the mill bed, then block the ends up with 1 2 3  blocks and parallels so the piece is truly level, and just use the vice to squeeze it there and keep it in place. A couple of good raps with a dead blow hammer make certain that the piece didn't lift up at one end or the other when you tighten the vice.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 27, 2019)

This is the part of crankshaft turning which had by far the highest "pucker factor". I got thru it okay--I'm always thankful for that. I'm off to Tim Hortons to buy a bagel, and then if I'm lucky I'll get the two ends done this afternoon.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 28, 2019)

This morning we have a finished one piece crankshaft. It looks good, and has minimal run-out. I'm not a big fan of turning between centers, but for pieces like this crankshaft it is really the best way.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 28, 2019)

Each counterweight will be held in place by one socket head capscrew. The counterbored hole for the capscrew will have a brass plug Loctited into it to hide the hole.


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## CFLBob (Mar 28, 2019)

I assume you're concerned about the balance?  Do you calculate the Moment of Inertia or just what?  In other words, how do you know how heavy to make those?


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 28, 2019)

CFLBob--There is indeed a formula which I don't have just off the top of my head. I could look it up, but in this case it would mean nothing anyways. I know that there will be some imbalance without weights. The counterweights are more for "show" than for "go". This will never be a high revving engine, so I'm not worried about it. Even if I was concerned, it would involve buying a very sensitive scale and weighing the piston and the connecting rod and calculating the center of mass of the crankshaft.


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## CFLBob (Mar 28, 2019)

Understand.  This is where your experience gives you a feel for what you need to to.

I recall calculating the MOI of an assembly like that way back in college.  One of those tools they put in my mental tool box that I would never need.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 29, 2019)

Drove 185 Km up north to see my 98 year old mother today. She was ill around Christmas time, but is up and about and doing much better now. My metal supplier was supposed to be sawing off two pieces of 5" diameter cold rolled for me today to make flywheels from, but he never got to it. Ah POOP!!!--That's okay. I have material to make a connecting rod and piston over the weekend.


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## nel2lar (Mar 29, 2019)

Brian 
Don't you mean your mother is 98 years young. I lost mine a few years back and I still miss her loving arms and always the sparkle in her eyes when I came around. You are one lucky man, just love her.
Nelson


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 30, 2019)

And now you know how I spent my Saturday morning. There is nothing really difficult about counterweights, but there is a lot of fussy set up. They look nice in my opinion, and they clear everything when the crankshaft is rotated.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 30, 2019)

Hi Nelson--Yes, we all love our mothers. She is hoping to make 100.---Brian


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## Catminer (Mar 30, 2019)

Hi Brian, nice work. What supplier did you source the cast iron from for the cylinder?

Peter


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 30, 2019)

Barrie Welding right here in Barrie. I have two companies that stock and sell steel plate, angle, bar, etcetera. My other company is A to Z Metals, again right here in town.---Brian


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## Catminer (Mar 30, 2019)

Thanks Brian

Peter


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 31, 2019)

Not a whole lot to show today. I had to drive down to Orangeville with my pickup truck and move some furniture for one of my kids. When I got home this afternoon I decided I should do something, so the engine now has an ignition cam and the large o-ring pulley that fits on the crankshaft to drive the cooling fan. I haven't put the groove into the o-ring pulley yet, because I don't have anything to bolt it to, to mount it in the lathe. Once I get the flywheel for that side done, I will drill and tap the holes in one side of the hub, mount the pulley, and then turn the groove.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 1, 2019)

If someone told me they spent a whole day machining a con rod, I would accuse them of being a slacker. However--I spent from 10:00 this morning until 5:00 this evening  making this one from bar stock. Why so long?--Jeez, I don't know, but it did. Maybe I'm slowing down in my old age.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 2, 2019)

Today has been declared "Flywheel Day". I have two slices of 5" diameter cold rolled which cost me $25 in total. there is going to be a ton of machining in these, so I expect tomorrow and possibly the next day also to be "flywheel days".


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 2, 2019)

This is the first set-up for machining. The entire face has been machined to take off 0.030" because the pieces are cut 13/16" wide and I want the finished flywheel to be 3/4". the center hole has been drilled and reamed to finished size. The cavity in the face has been machined to full depth closest to the hub using a 0.120" wide cut-off tool. This is a time consuming operation, as you have to plunge 0.010", then traverse until the slot is about 0.400" wide, and keep repeating that. The slot is made 0.400" wide to allow my smallest brazed carbide boring bar to enter the slot. I will show it in the next post. I have lightly machined what will be the outer limits of the recess in the side, just to give me a visual when I begin to use the boring bar.
The outside diameter of the flywheel hasn't been touched yet. The cut off tool has been ground to have some of the "heel" removed so it doesn't rub on the side of the flywheel when taking the plunge cuts. So far, it is the only tool I have used.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 2, 2019)

The second machining step involves using a brazed carbide boring bar mounted in the toolpost. I find that what works best for me is running the lathe about 170 rpm and advancing the tool into the pre-made slot about 0.010" at a time, then cranking out towards yourself until the tool reaches the maximum diameter that you want the cavity to be. Every time I do this I vow that I'm going to make an adjustable stop so that I don't have to watch the dro so closely.  After the boring tool had reached the bottom of the slot, I removed it and did a clean-up pass with a HSS tool to remove any ridges. Then I used strips of 180 and 250 grit garnet paper (which I buy on a roll) to clean up my tool marks a little more. This side is finished now, so I can flip the flywheel around and repeat this on the other side. The o.d. of the flywheel hasn't been touched yet.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 2, 2019)

The last step, after the recess is machined in both sides of the flywheel is to hold the flywheel in place by expanding the chuck jaws inside the outer rim, and machine the outside diameter to a nice finish. The last steps of course, will be to put in the "lightening holes" and a couple of set screws and a keyway.


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## werowance (Apr 2, 2019)

please take extra photos of doing the keyway. I'm interested in how you make that part.  if you get time that is.  its looking good


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 2, 2019)

Werowance--I have a set of broaches for putting the keyway into flywheels and pulleys. Is that what you want to see?


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 2, 2019)

I looked in my broach kit for the appropriate broach for a 3/8" hole, and I see that some ham fisted bugger has broken my 3/32" broach!! Then I went online to search for a replacement. Happens they have them at Fastenal. Hey!!! my kid works at Fastenal.-C'mere kid!!!--Can you get one of these things for me?--Sure Dad.--Somebody up there loves me!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 2, 2019)

Werowance--Here is a long and painful explanation of how I put keyways into my flywheels and pulleys.


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## nel2lar (Apr 2, 2019)

Brian 
It would have been nice to know it was not your video. I am sorry but Pete is not one of my favorites, thank you.
Nelson


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## werowance (Apr 3, 2019)

Thanks Brian,  yes that does explain how its done.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 3, 2019)

Both flywheels are turned now, but still need cosmetic holes, keyways, and set screw holes. You can see in the pictures how I kept both flywheels equally spaced about the center of the cylinder. This required a very large cavity in the gear side flywheel, but it clears the large helical gear by about .025", which is what I had planned.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 3, 2019)

Once the holes are drilled in the flywheel webs, they really start to come to life. I can't do much more on them now, until I get a new broach.


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## CFLBob (Apr 3, 2019)

Do you drill the holes on an XY table or a rotary table?  I'm assuming you did those on the mill and not on a drill press.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 3, 2019)

Use the x-y table on my mill for that stuff.


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## JohnBDownunder (Apr 4, 2019)

Another project to keep watching. 
          Thanks Brian for posting. 
              I for one will be following with interest cos I learn stuff that hopefully I shall remember when I need it.
John B


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 4, 2019)

All the things I have done so far are just repeats of parts and operations that I have done many times before. The exciting part for me is about to begin, up at the cylinder head end. I have actually made the rocker arm and exhaust valve and sideshaft cam on my previous sideshaft hit and miss engine, so that's not entirely new either. The overhead intake valve and rocker mechanism will be "sorta/kinda" new to me. I am not going to commit at this time about the position of the fuel tank. There is room enough to squeeze one under the cylinder, but after all the issues I had with my previous engine has made me a bit leery of fuel tank positions. The cylinder head, although not terribly complex, is going to be "interesting".  It can be made from a length of 2" x 1" aluminum bar.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 4, 2019)

I've been setting here studying the two raised bosses on the face of the cylinder head in the above picture. They look nice, and they both serve a function. I'm just not 100% sure that I can make them. If I made them rectangular they would still function, but it wouldn't look nearly as nice. But--if I make them rectangular, I can set the part up on my mill table and use the boring head with a reversed boring tool and round the perfectly circular boss down to the surface of the longer raised portion.--Then how do I get the corners rounded on the longer raised portion?


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 4, 2019)

Okay--Minor design change here. That round boss was only there to give enough material to screw in an exhaust pipe. I have removed the boss completely and went to a flange mounted exhaust pipe. This lets me change the other long boss to be circular, which gives me sufficient thickness to screw the sparkplug into and makes machining a lot easier. Now it can be done on the lathe with my four jaw chuck.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 5, 2019)

The block which will become the cylinder head has been machined to correct overall dimensions. It is set up in the four jaw chuck, and the first cavity machined into one side. This is the side which fits against the cylinder, so the recess just formed fits over a register turned on the end of the cylinder. While it is still in this set-up, I have drilled a 3/16" hole thru, so that when I flip it over to machine the far side I can pick up exactly the same center. eventually that 3/16" hole will be opened up to accept a sparkplug with a 10mm thread on it.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 5, 2019)

Part has been flipped over in the four jaw, and machined so as to leave the boss which the sparkplug fits up against. This is the last "on center" work that I have to do, so before I tear down this set-up I will drill and tap the sparkplug hole.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 5, 2019)

The burn chamber has been milled. My gimpy back is starting to talk to me, so I'll finish this cylinder head off tomorrow.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 6, 2019)

Jeez--I may have to rebrand this engine as the "Cyclops".


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 6, 2019)

I kind of got the cart ahead of the horse here. I really should have built the piston next, but I was so intrigued by the shape of the cylinder head that I had to make it first. I will probably make the piston tomorrow.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 7, 2019)

Todays offering to the machining Gods is a big beautiful cast iron piston. It was machined to about .001" larger than the bore of the cast iron cylinder, then "wrung" into the cylinder with 600 grit aluminum oxide paste. The cylinder bore was honed with a 3 stone brake hone, but not lapped. It is self lapping when "wringing" the piston into the bore with aluminum oxide paste. The piston pin is a bit of 3/16" cold rolled steel, held in place by a set screw in the piston.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 7, 2019)

The idea of "wringing" a piston into a cylinder works like this. . The theory is that you turn the piston to be about .0005" to.001" oversize. Then using a loop of 220 grit sanding strip, work it back and forth on the piston until the piston just begins to fit into the cylinder, but not go in all the way.  At that point the cylinder is held in the chuck, and the piston is mounted on a T handle and coated with 600 grit. With the lathe on its slowest speed, you hold the T handle and work the piston in and out. This is scary as hell, and you have to be ready to instantly let go of the T handle if it grabs. Each time you try to move the piston into the cylinder, it will go in a little farther, as the grit wears away some of the piston o.d. and some of the cylinder i.d. You keep working it until the piston will pass completely through the cylinder. What you end up with is for all intents and purposes a zero clearance between the piston and cylinder. The hardest part of this procedure (other than the fear of getting wrapped up in your lathe) is turning the piston to the correct diameter. If you leave the piston too large, it grabs, jerks the tee handle out of your hands, and makes you crap your drawers. If you take off a thou too much, then you have no material to "wring" away.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 7, 2019)

Almost all of the small semi-diesel model airplane engines are made this way with no rings at all. They rev so high that compression doesn't have time to leak down around the piston. I can run my engines without a ring when they are made this way, but I have found that for really slow running engines that they work better with one Viton ring.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 8, 2019)

Today the magic beast has grown a set of antlers---well, not really. Those are the pivot towers for my inlet and exhaust valve rocker arms.


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## werowance (Apr 8, 2019)

those horns do make it look mean...   its looking good Brian.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 8, 2019)

I was just doing some research on recommended valve lift for the cam design on this engine. I found a site that recommended that valve lift should be roughly equal to 12% of the cylinder bore on a 4 cycle engine. This engine has a 1" bore, so it seems that a total valve lift of 1/8" (0.125") should be about right. This is not cast in stone, since I can design  cam lobes to give whatever lift I want. This engine will be a slow revving engine. I would appreciate input from other model engineers on this. I know that on my model hit and miss engines with atmospheric intake valves that the exhaust valve lift is almost 0.170", while the valve lift on my 1" bore flathead engine that was featured in The Home Shop Machinist magazine is only 0.080".


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 9, 2019)

Today was rocker arm day. They are brass, which will look nice with a bit of polishing. The size of these little things in no way reflect the amount of work that goes into making them!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 10, 2019)

Lots of little fiddly bits done today. The cam contact rollers and fork, and the fan bracket. I hope to make both cams tomorrow.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 11, 2019)

The cams came out without any problems. They are simple flat sided cams and were very easy to machine. I had far more trouble and fussing with that brass pulley at the fan. I have to quit and figure out what comes next. I think I'm down to the valve/valve housings. They will be made as sub assemblies, then inserted into the cylinder head like I did on the previous hit and miss engine.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 12, 2019)

I had a very exhausting morning.--Oh, that's a horrible pun--I made the exhaust pipe and flange this morning. I should be making valves, but I need a break from machining things. The temperature outside is almost 60 degrees F and the glacier in my front yard is almost gone.  I think I deserve a coffee from Tim Hortons, maybe even risk a big sugary donut. If I still had my hot-rod this would be the day for its first spring ride. Maybe a good dose of sugar and a drive around town will restore my creativity and I'll do the valves later today. ---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 12, 2019)

Went to Timmys, had a big coffee and an apple fritter, then went down to Partsource and bought a sparkplug, points, and a condenser. I use the same units on all of my engine. Cost is +/- $28 Canadian. Went to Kawartha Dairy and bought a small bag of curd to munch on.---Everything I like is either illegal, immoral, or fattening!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 12, 2019)

This afternoon I whittled out two valves. I keep my exhaust and intake valves the same size and length. I use plain cold rolled steel to make them from. They have not been trimmed to "finished length" yet. One interesting thing in this picture is the small piece of material setting between the valves. It is a scrap piece of cold rolled steel with a 0.125" hole reamed thru it. When I machine my valves, I leave them about .002" oversize. I work that last .002" down with a strip of aluminum oxide paper. I have learned from past experience not to trust my micrometer for the final diameter of the valve stems. Instead, I try and fit that piece with the hole reamed in it as a fitting guide. When the valve stems are reduced to the point where that piece will slide all the way up the valve stems, I know they are finished and will fit well into the reamed 0.125" holes in the valve cages.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 13, 2019)

Nothing spectacular going on today. I did make up proper pivot pins for both rocker arms, and a small retainer bushing on the back sided of the fan shaft (which doesn't show up in this picture anyways.) One thing that I did do, and that I like very much--I took off the rectangular sideshaft bracket, mounted it in the four jaw chuck, and turned a round boss and a taper on the end of it. This was a purely cosmetic thing, but it really adds to the overall look of the engine, I think.


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## CFLBob (Apr 13, 2019)

I think it looks better.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 13, 2019)

Thanks CFL Bob.--It's only a small "beauty touch" but things like that can make a big difference in the appearance of a rather plain looking engine.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 14, 2019)

Its been a horrible cold, wet, nasty day today, with light traces of snow and lots of rain. I had an inventor come this morning to discuss a new project he has in mind, and after he left I turned two valve cages and two valve spring retainers. I dug around in my box of assorted springs and found two springs the right diameter, but I'm not sure at this point if they are strong enough.  Tomorrow I will use my George Britnel valve seat cutting tool to cut the seats into the cages, cross drill the end of the valves for a retainer pin, lap the valves into their respective seats, and maybe press the assembled valves and cages into the cylinder head.


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## nel2lar (Apr 14, 2019)

Brian
There is nothing plain about your engines!
Nelson


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 14, 2019)

Thank you, Nelson. We're getting close to "show time" with this engine.---Brian


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## werowance (Apr 15, 2019)

the taper does look nice.  question, what is this hole for?  lubrication?


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 15, 2019)

Yes, there is an oilite bronze bushing at each end of the aluminum part which has been tapered. a squirt of oil once in a while, applied thru that hole keeps things well lubricated.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 15, 2019)

The valve modules have been completely finished. All appropriate holes have been added and the valves have been shortened to finished length and  lapped into the seats before the modules are pressed into place. The valve cages were coated on the outside diameter with #638 Loctite before being pressed. The valves shouldn't have to be lapped any more, but if they need to be I can remove the spring and retainer and attach one of my finger chucks to the valve stem to spin it for a re-lap. The cylinder head is currently in a vice, which is closed enough to raise the valve faces up of the seats. That is "just in case" I may have got some Loctite on the valve faces. I don't want to Loctite the valve faces to the seats.


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## mnay (Apr 15, 2019)

Very nice.  I have been following since the beginning.  
I am getting ready to move to a new home and larger shop, but will have to store my tools for several months while the house is being finished.  I have never gone that long without my lathe and workshop tools.
Starting to feel withdrawals already.  I will have to just enjoy the everyone's work vicariously  for awhile.
Mike


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 15, 2019)

I knew that sooner or later I was going to have to cut keyways in this crankshaft, and today was the day. These keyways are just a little bit different, because they don't run out to the end of a shaft. I thought that they were called "pocket" keyways, but they are actually called "feather" keyways. I had to go across town and buy a couple of new 3/32" endmills because the one I had was broken. Not being able to find any pertinent information other than the correct name, I made it up as I went along. I ran the mill at 1150 rpm, poised the endmill over what would be the extreme end of the keyway, then very cautiously plunged to full depth--which in my case was about 0.053". This went well, so after plunging a total of four places I increased the depth from "0" to 0.053" in .005" increments and moved the table in x axis very slowly and cautiously from one end of the keyway to the other, with lots of squirt on cutting oil. All went well, I didn't break the endmill, and I have my keyways finished. I am still waiting for my broach to arrive so I can cut the keyways in my flywheels.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 15, 2019)

My broach came in today, but there was a problem. The one I ordered was a plain HSS broach, for $75 Canadian. The one that came in today was the right size but was TIN coated and costs $135 Canadian. Tomorrow will be negotiation time. I am not going to pay $135 but I don't want to wait for another two weeks to get an uncoated broach in. Apparently they come from some place in Virginia.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 16, 2019)

The engine is very close to being finished. This morning I am "running it in" with power provided by an old 1/2 hp. electric motor. Running an engine in is not intended to take out any major binding in an engine. That is something that has to be addressed with more machining on something. This type of run in is to address all the minor binding points.--Con-rod big end to crank journal, sideshaft to bushings, wrist pin to piston, and any "stickiness" in the valve train.


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## wgpeters (Apr 16, 2019)

Video won't load for some reason.  Yep... windows strikes again.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 16, 2019)

Today yields a set of ignition points installed and the valve module retainers finished and installed.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 16, 2019)

And now I'm snookered!! The wrong broach has been returned and I have to wait a week for the correct one to be shipped up to me. My intent was to make the first trials of this engine using a Traxxas Pro 15 carburetor, but my local hobby shop has stopped handling them and they can't even special order one for me. I do have a piece of the broken 3/32" broach here and I may try to use it with shims. Depending on how the coming week turns out, I may make another carburetor while I wait for the correct broach to arrive.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 17, 2019)

In order to have something to do, I went ahead and drilled and tapped the flywheel hubs for set screws. One set screw goes directly over the key and the other is 90 degrees offset. This is where my old "Tilt-a-whirl" vice really shines. Due to the fact that the hubs very seldom stick out past the width of the flywheels, these set screw holes must be drilled at an angle. I have a digital protractor which I use to set the vice to whatever angle of tilt I want and then drill the set screw holes. It helps a great deal if you have an extra long centering drill and an extra long tap.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 18, 2019)

Of course, like all my i.c. engines, I have to have a starter hub. This hub will bolt to the face of the flywheel. Since the crankshaft is relatively small on this end (0.3150") I want to keep any torque forces from outside to be as close to the supporting crankshaft bearing as possible. I will probably make this up today. Also you will see at the far end of the engine a red wire clamp. I don't have it correctly positioned yet, but it is there to hold the "hot wire" which goes to the ignition points so that it doesn't rub on the flywheel and short out.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 18, 2019)

There!! That's enough playing for today. Now, if I ever get my crankshaft keyways cut, I have something to engage with my variable speed drill to try and start this thing. At the last minute I decided to put a small flange on the outer edge of my starter hub. If I want to use the starter hub as a power take off pulley the flange will help keep a belt in place.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 20, 2019)

Every engine running old school ignition points need a condenser to keep the points from arcing and burning out. Its especially good karma when you get to hide everything in behind the flywheel.--It doesn't always happen that way.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 20, 2019)

In order to have something to pass today, I set the valve timing and ignition timing this morning. Ringo had suggested that a pneumatic fitting that would screw into the sparkplug hole would be a good way to check for leaking valves before even trying to start the engine. What a great idea. I made one for my earlier hit and miss sideshaft engine, and this one has the same C6 sparkplug, so I thought I'd put some air on the fitting and see what was up with this engine. The exhaust valve didn't leak at all. The intake however leaked like a sieve. I pulled the cylinder head, relapped the intake with 600 grit aluminum oxide paste, then reassembled everything.--It still leaked like a sieve. Tore it down again and relapped the intake, first with 320 grit, then after a laquer thinner cleanup I lapped it again with 400 grit. Then after a second cleanup, I lapped it again with 600 grit. That fixed it. I'm getting a definite "bounce back" now when I spin the flywheels by hand.


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## nel2lar (Apr 20, 2019)

Brian
It looks like you are ready, the motor looks great. I can see it firing up the first time out.
Good Luck
Nelson


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 21, 2019)

Thanks Nelson. Since I am waiting for the broach with nothing else to do, I will spend some time sussing out a fuel tank.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 21, 2019)

Its time to think about a gas tank. Space is really at a premium here, and I don't want a big external tank to mess up the lines of the engine. The tank I have shown in pale green utilizes the last bit of free space and still leaves clearance between the top of the tank and the underside of the cylinder, so as not to interrupt the breeze coming off the fan. The outside dimensions of the tank are 2" x 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" long. This will hold quite a lot of gas, and the main part of the body can be built from a section of 2" x 1 1/2" rectangular tubing with endplates welded into it. You will also note that I have used a Traxxas Pro 15 carburetor--Not because it is better than a home built one, but because it will be quicker to get a running engine than taking the time to build another carburetor right now.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 21, 2019)

I scratched and scraped around in my "stuff you should never throw away" drawer and found a piece of 2" x 2" x 3/16" square tube and some oddments of 1/8" plate. The bandsaw cut one side off the square tube and yielded a 2" x 1 1/2" channel which will become the top and two sides of the tank. The three pieces of plate in the picture will become the bottom and two endplates for the tank. A gas tank could be made from much lighter material, but this stuff is FREE!!! When it's all welded together and painted, nobody will know. Jury is still out on the filler neck and cap.--And Oh yes--If you look under the cylinder you will see a block of wood cut to the size the finished gas tank will be. I really didn't want to make a tank that wouldn't fit after I got it finished.


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## nel2lar (Apr 22, 2019)

Brian
Nothing like knowing the exact size of fit. That will be one tough fuel cell.
Looking good
Nelson


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 22, 2019)

Don't laugh!! This is the very latest in "blow your guts out leaktesting". The pail of water is out in my main garage. Works great.--Submerge gastank in pail of water. Put brass fitting in mouth. Blow your guts out and look for bubbles. Keep resoldering until there are no more bubbles. The neoprene tubing, pipe plug, and coupling all unscrew from the gas tank filler pipe. At the moment, the gas tank has no leaks. After sanding and cleaning it up ready for paint, it is my sincerest hope that no more leaks are found. The outfeed to the carburetor is going to be a bolt on affair. The mousetrap is not part of this apparatus. Caught one mouse in the pantry last night, and placing the trap on my side table is good wifes subtle reminder to set it again tonight.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 22, 2019)

And a lovely thing it is, indeed!!  It fits into the space that was available, it doesn't foul the blades of the cooling fan, and that rather ridiculous long filler spout neck coming out of the tank at a 10 degree angle ends up in the correct spot. Far enough away from the sparkplug to prevent arcing to it, and convenient to fill.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 23, 2019)

Nothing too outrageous today, but progress none the less. I made up the aluminum fixture which bolts to the side of the gas tank. This piece bolts to the side of the gas tank and the actual fuel passage is sealed with a rubber o-ring between the gas tank body and this aluminum part.  The gas tank is threaded for the bolts, and the bolts will be coated with J.B. Weld as a sealing agent. I did fabricate and install an anti flowback valve, same as on the sideshaft hit and miss engine, with a 3/32" diameter ball. I was able to drill and tap two of these holes in the gas tank with my existing tooling, but had to order an extra long drill and #4-40 tap to get the other two which fall directly under the long filler spout. The goopy looking stuff is J.B.Weld which has to dry 24 hours before I do much clean-up on it.


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## CFLBob (Apr 24, 2019)

Brian, this is slightly off topic, but is there a book that goes into the way you seat the valves with lapping compound and all?  

This is something I'm a complete newbie at and need to know.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 24, 2019)

The gas tank has been mounted to the base. Taking a picture of this is about the same as taking a picture of a black cat in a coal bin, but you can see enough of what I'm doing.  This was one of the times where I didn't want to put the holes in the baseplate before hand. A fabrication like the gas tank might have the bolt holes exactly where you want them on cad, but there is more of a chance that they won't be. This was an opportunity to set the finished gas tank in place and mark thru with transfer punches. I have only one extra length drill, and fortunately it was smaller in diameter than the #5-40 thread tap drill. So--set the tank up, transfer punch holes, use my one and only extra length drill to drill thru the base, then set the base on its side in the mill vice and drill thru from the other side with the correct size tap drill, then tap from the wrong side (thankfully my taps were just long enough to go thru the 3/4" baseplate), then tear down the setup and put the bolts in place. Fortunately I didn't have to remove the cylinder to do any of this, but I did have to dismount the sideshaft housing.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 24, 2019)

Bob--I have done a couple of tutorials on this, and I will try and find them and send you the link.---Brian
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/71216-Making-a-valve-for-model-I-C-engines/page2
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/78539-Pin-vices-and-Valve-lapping?
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/70846-Setting-up-and-running-model-4-cycle-engines?highlight=valve+grinding+pastehighlight=lapping+valves


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## CFLBob (Apr 24, 2019)

Thanks, Brian.   I've copied those off and will start studying.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 24, 2019)

Bob--I use a tool designed by George Britnel to cut my valve seats, and it is an absolute lifesaver. I will hunt down my drawing and a picture of it to post here. It is the best tool I have ever used to ensure leakproof engine valves, and I bless George Britnel every time I use it. I always make "valve cages" which combine the valve guide and the valve seat in one piece, and the Britnel tool ensures concentricity between valve guide and valve seat. It is a tool which is used by hand, never under power. I generally use only 600 grit valve grinding paste, and if a valve isn't sealing properly for any reason I will lap it with 400 grit, then 320 grit, and finish up with 600 grit.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 24, 2019)

And here we have a typical detail of a valve and an assembled "valve module". The concept of making up a "valve module" complete, and then pressing it into the cylinder head is something brand new for me. Normally the valve cages are pressed and Loctited into the cylinder head first, and then after they are in place the side port is drilled thru the cylinder and the valve cage all in one step, and then the Britnell tool is used, and then the valve and keeper and spring are assembled after the fact. Don't let the "pressed into place" fool you. If it is a hard press, the cages distort. If the cages fit loosely they will leak. It should be a "hard finger press" and God help you to achieve that. It takes skill and practice to get that fit. If you do turn the cage SLIGHTLY UNDERSIZE you can sometimes save them by knurling the o.d. of the cage. Knurling will actually make the o.d. "grow" by a few thou.


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## CFLBob (Apr 24, 2019)

Wow, Brian, thanks!  

I'm between little jobs around the house and just copied everything into a Word document.   I'll get time to read it over tomorrow, but wanted to say thanks for the time and effort.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 25, 2019)

Sing Hallelujah brutha--My new broach finally came. During the past week while I've been waiting for the new broach to show up here, I have went ahead and finished all of the little things that I normally might not have done until the flywheels were broached and the engine test fired. So--Tomorrow may be the day!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 25, 2019)

Flywheels are broached and all is well. Nothing broke, flywheels and keys are assembled on crankshaft. Now I can go to bed.


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## nel2lar (Apr 25, 2019)

Brian
Sleep well, tomorrow is going to be a treat.
Cheers.
Nelson


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## werowance (Apr 26, 2019)

cant wait to see it run


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 26, 2019)

So here we go guys and girls. We have a runner. I still have a few adjustments to make, but overall I'm very happy. It took very little to get it running. I am confident enough at this point to sell a complete set of plans for this engine for $25 Canadian funds. On a scale of 1 to 10, with the Webster being a 1 and Malcolm Strides Lynx being a 10, I would classify this engine at about a 5 in terms of difficulty to build. Contact me if you wish to buy a complete set of engineering drawings as .pdf files. I will be doing more adjusting and tweaking, and will be back with a better video, but there will be no more changes to the engine itself. I have a Traxxas Pro 15 carburetor on right now, but will include a complete set of carburetor drawings with the engine in case you wish to build your own carburetor.---Brian


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## ZebDog (Apr 26, 2019)

Con grats Brian on another running engine sounds very smooth


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 26, 2019)

And here we have the engine running after a bit of "tuning up".


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## bigearl91 (Apr 26, 2019)

I will take a set of the drawings please Brian. No rush, but how would you prefer I did the tx from the UK?

Ta
Earl


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 26, 2019)

Earl--I messaged you with details--it will be in your message box on this forum.---Brian Rupnow


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## CFLBob (Apr 26, 2019)

Congratulations on another great runner, Brian!   

Can I ask what's the bore and stroke of this engine?  I think I recall you saying it was a 1" piston, but not the stroke.  I need to think it over.


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## jacobball2000 (Apr 26, 2019)

Where did you get the broaching tool?


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 26, 2019)

Bob--1" bore, 1 3/8" stroke. If you go back to post #10 of this thread, you will see the most complex part of this engine. If you are confident that you could machine this part, then the rest of the parts are fairly simple.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 26, 2019)

Jacobball2000 I got the broach thru Fastenal. You can also buy them from KBC tooling.


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## nel2lar (Apr 26, 2019)

Brian
Very nice and has a charming rhythm running.
Congratulations on one more.
Nelson


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## Johno1958 (Apr 26, 2019)

Brian 
She is lovely running engine . My congratulations .
Cheers
John


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## JohnBDownunder (Apr 27, 2019)

Yep,
Congrats from me also Brian, sounds and runs great.
John B


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## ShopShoe (Apr 27, 2019)

I really like this one too, Brian. Great sound and runs and responds so well to the throttle.

Lots of interesting things to watch while it is running.

Congratulations and Thank You for posting,

--ShopShoe


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 27, 2019)

Thank you guys. I am very pleased with this engine.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 27, 2019)

When I built the gas tank for this engine, I incorporated my anti backflow valve into it. Since this is a throttled engine and not a hit and miss, the only advantage that I could see is that on cold starts the fuel would be "right there" at the carburetor, so I wouldn't have to go thru prolonged choking of the engine to get the gas all the way from the tank up to the carburetor. I am very pleasantly surprised---The engine starts immediately on a cold start with no manual choking being necessary at all. Just thought I would pass that bit of information on to other home model engine builders.---Brian


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## nel2lar (Apr 28, 2019)

Brian
One thing I have learned over the years is to replace tool when the unfortunate things happen. I might not ever use it but it is in my tool box because I know bought it and expect it to be there when I want to use it. Another thing it will cost less today than what it will six months from now. 
Enjoyed all you projects and don't stop anytime soon.
Cheers
Nelson


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 29, 2019)

Good idea Nelson. After I finished this engine, I toyed with the idea of putting a governor on it. However, the engine runs so well that I have decided not to mess with it. I may build a governor as a "stand alone" unit which gets driven by this engine, but is not an actual part of it.


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## bigearl91 (Apr 29, 2019)

Do you give your creations names? If so, any ideas?


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 29, 2019)

I only give them names when I can't get them to run.--Actually, a good name would be the Rupnow Horizontal Sideshaft engine. I trust that you got the drawings okay?


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## bigearl91 (Apr 29, 2019)

Seems straightforward enough - can't really go wrong with a descriptive title.  I am curious to know the theme with naming the failed projects though?

I have just checked my email inbox and can see the drawings now, thanks for getting them over so fast Brian!

Some materials now ordered for this along with the Howell "Farm Boy" - still not sure which to go for first. I am leaning towards your side shaft as it seems less fiddly, and I already have a very good point of reference here with this thread.

I think I will document my progress on the forum too, in a likely less comprehensive way though.

Thanks again,

Earl


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## bigearl91 (Apr 29, 2019)

And just a comment after skimming through these drawings, very comprehensive and easy to follow.

Good job.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 29, 2019)

Before you buy any material for the engine---Buy the gears first off Ebay. If you can't for any reason get the gears, then the drawings are no good to you. This is critical.--there is a link to the gears near the beginning of my build thread.-Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 29, 2019)

Curiously enough, I don't really have any failed projects. They all work eventually.--Note that the key word here is eventually.


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## bigearl91 (Apr 30, 2019)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Before you buy any material for the engine---Buy the gears first off Ebay. If you can't for any reason get the gears, then the drawings are no good to you. This is critical.--there is a link to the gears near the beginning of my build thread.-Brian



Thanks for the advice on this, I purchased these immediately with the same thing in mind. I also contacted the supplier to check up on whether or not they replace the stock or if it is limited ex. stock. They were very confident that these are always being replenished and won't run out of stock. Of course take that for what its worth. I also asked them what other 2:1 ratio gear pairs they offer and they were good enough to provide a full list, including several straight spur gear sets, bevel and helical sets.

I don't want to hi-jack, so I may just make a new thread with them all linked.

Again, thanks for the info.

Cheers
Earl


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 30, 2019)

Earl--The other 2:1 ratio gears that they sell will have different center to center distances and will not work with my engine plans. I would like it if you can start a separate thread for your engine build.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (May 19, 2019)

I looked around my shop for flat belts, but I only found this short little guy to run my over-center clutch.
​


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## Brian Rupnow (May 24, 2019)

I try to post a video of my engines working once they have been set up and tuned. All of my engines have to be capable of earning their keep around here by working at something. They work on a number of nifty things, but this is one of my favorites, the sawmill. The sideshaft engine seems quite capable of running the sawmill with no hesitation, so here we are, sawing some lumber today.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (May 24, 2019)

I had hoped that this would show the governor working, and it does, but you have to be quick to see it. At 0.26 seconds into the video, just as I engage the clutch, you will see the governor move the throttle linkage to give the engine a little more throttle to prevent the engine rpm from dropping when the load of the clutch is introduced.


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## bigearl91 (May 24, 2019)

Thanks for sharing!


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## CFLBob (May 24, 2019)

I regret that I only have one like to give for this!  

I also have the dream of running useful things with my engines, as I get them going.  Since one HP is 750 Watts, 1HP could run a small but useful generator.  Recharge some batteries if (when) we get another hurricane.


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## jlchapman (May 25, 2019)

Awesome video, engine, clutch and sawmill!!  Tell us more about the clutch and sawmill.  I would be interested in building both.
Thanks for sharing all this,
Jerry


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## Brian Rupnow (May 25, 2019)

This is a link to a free download of my sawmill plans.
http://www.mediafire.com/file/8p5p4buuaaiug9d/MODEL_MULEY_SAWMILL.zip/file


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## Brian Rupnow (May 25, 2019)

I sell plans for this sideshaft engine for $25 Canadian funds payed to my PayPal account. This is a link to the build of the clutch. I sell the clutch plans complete for $25 Canadian in my Paypal account, under [email protected]   Please specify which plans you are paying for. I don't want to send a set of plans that you didn't want.---Brian
https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/over-center-manual-cone-clutch.30605/page-2


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## Johno1958 (May 25, 2019)

Another great project Brian and you keep them coming.
Well done.
Cheers
John


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