# Building it!



## kvom

Got the building permits on Wednesday, and today a crew started clearing the site and digging the foundation. Garage/shop slab will be 26x36'. With allowance for walls there will be ~25x35' of useable space below, and an in-law suite (bedroom w/ bath) above. Construction should last about 10 weeks, after which I can start shopping for a lathe and mill.

Of course, as I will be doing quite a bit of the inside finishing (flooring, paint, etc.), that will take up a bit of time that might otherwise be spent more enjoyably.


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## Bogstandard

Kvom,

Been there and still at it.

A few things that should be considered, put more wall sockets in than you ever think you will need. Rest assured even that will be too few.
Get as much lighting in there as you can. If you have to put artificial lighting in, use fluorescent with daylight tubes. They are more easy on the eyes and cast less shadows than tungsten.
Because there is a bathroom above, try to get running water and drainage in there. I wish I had done that when I built mine.

Lastly, try to plan out as much as you can. There is nothing worse than having to clean swarf off your bench before you can do clean work, because either the mill or bench were placed in the wrong position.

Best of luck on your new venture.

John


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## kvom

Bogs,

Good advise there. I will have 6 fixtures of 4-tube flourescent daylight bulbs in the ceiling, 2 over each bay one 2 over the back where any machinery will likely go. The ceiling height will be 13' to accomodate a 2-post automotive lift.

I will have a sink in the garage itself, but since I cannot put a drain in the floor the plumbing must connect that in the house. Until I get a plumber to look at it it's unclear if I can drain the lower sink directly. However it's possible to find sinks with a tank underneath and a pump that would allow connection to the upper bathroom's drainage.

I will have 200 amp service. So far I have identified separarate 230V connections for the lift, the air compressor, the water heater, and one on each wall for welder, plasma, etc. Given that most "old iron" runs 3ph, I plan to add a dedicated connection for a future RPC.

My thought is to put 110 outlets every 6' or so along two walls at 48" height. I will be doing the wiring, and friend who is an electrician will supervise. Since the studs are 16" apart, I can space outlets pretty liberally. The third wall, where the lift will be, will have a couple of outlets, but since I can't put a workbench on that side few are needed.


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## CrewCab

Sounds like a very nice size for a shop kvom  mind you if your sharing it with a 2 post lift your obviously doing more in than just metalwork. I'm still renovating my little 10' x 12' shop, when I'm finished there will be about 16 x double sockets and around 6 dedicated fused spurs, at the price of sockets it's not worth going short. 

One good piece of advice I received was about ventilation, though I haven't got any yet, apart from the door  ......... it will be getting a new (small) but openable window and an extract fan. Fortunately the downstairs loo is right outside the entrance door so I don't have far to go. If you have a problem with drainage do consider a pump, the modern ones are pretty good and will cope with WC's as well as showers and basin's etc; over the last few years we've fitted quite a few and they have all performed fine.

Enjoy yourself and most of all ............. have fun  ;D 

CC


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## kvom

I have been doing offroading/rock crawling for the past 4 years. We do all of our own repairs and modifications, and having a lift is a definite advantage. No more lying on a cold concrete slab with dirt falling on my face!

I got interested in the machining aspect when an offroader friend bought a Bridgeprt and started fabricating some of his own parts. He just acquired a lathe as well.

I will be doing the same, hopefully. In the meantime I think the model engine building will be both fascinating and a good way to learn to use the machinery properly. The automotive machining will be big stuff like threading or boring tubes.


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## CrewCab

I also take part in offroading, but over here in the UK it's more "Mud Plugging", but we enjoy it, unfortunately all my garage space is taken up with other things, such as woodworking equipment : ............. so In my case (and my son's) repairs are still carried out _"lying on a cold concrete slab"_ we try and do maintenance in the summer .......... try ...... unfortunately our Land Rovers can't distinguish between seasons so tend to need attention all year round :wall: ......... I do envy your indoor facilities  ............. all the best.

Dave


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## Bernd

kvom,

You might want to consider radiant floor heating. Nice to have if your in the colder climates. ;D

Bernd


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## kvom

Actually will have radiant ;D

Had the equipment for it delivered today.


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## kvom

The framers are working on the second floor rafters as I type, after 3 days of inactivity due to rain. I believe the exterior doors and windows will be installed next week and the roof sheathed with plywood.

On another note, as of today I'm the owner of a Bridgeport mill and a Monarch lathe. These were relics of shop that was sold to another machine shop that wanted only cnc gear, so that the owners were left with the manual gear. There was also a ID/OD tool grinder that I had to pass on, and a hefty Johnson horizontal bandsaw that will need some rehab that they threw in for free. They are keeping the machines stored for me until the shop is ready to receive them, but I did bring home about 6 boxes of tooling that came with the machines. I need to take inventory, but I know that the haul includes:

For the mill:

r8 collets
rotary table
vise
tilt table
clamping set
2 sets of drill bits, one HSS and the other cobalt, missing a few sizes

For the lathe:

6-jaw chuck
4-jaw chuck
Jacobs flex collet chuck with a set of collets
a big set of chuckable reamers
2 or three tailstock chucks
couple of live centers
boring head
AXA clone toolpost and 4-5 holders

Mill is a 60s era 9x42. Table has a few nicks, but is otherwise clean. Good things are a hydraulic drawbar and 2-axis Newall DRO. Bad things are a leaking lube tube to the table and a burned out x-axis drive motor.

Lathe is a 1942 10EE, 12x20. Apparently refurbed within the past two years. 230v 3PH. Only apparent negatives are some surface rust on the cross slide and compound and on the chucks, plus one of the belts obviously needs to be replaced. Aside from all the tooling it has a Newall 2-axis DRO.

I will try to get some pics up later this weekend.


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## ed miles

kvom, if you are installing all new lighting, ask your supplier about the new T8 fixtures. This unit has an electrontic ballast, no flicker and uses 40% less power. I have them installed in the computer room at the house and currently retro fitting a couple of fixtuers each weekend at the shop. Try to find a dealer that has a demo unit so you can see the difference. There are also optional tube types.

Ed


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## ksouers

Kirk,
Sounds like you did well. Wow, Bridgeport and Monarch EE for first machines! Holy Cow!

Can't wait to see the pictures. 
I've never used a Monarch, but I really like the looks of the EE. And of course they have an excellent reputation.


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## Bogstandard

Nice one K,

You are starting out with well proven and excellent equipment. Now will be the time to start to use it correctly.

Big powerful machines, so take it easy for a while until you get used to them.

John


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## kvom

Here is a pic of the lathe as it was with the panels removed for inspection.







It appears that we will be able to park inside the new garage floor in a couple more weeks, so I will be able to get the machines into the current garage, hook them up to a phase converter, and do whatever refurbing they need. OTOH I will be doing a fair amount of finishing work in the new space (wiring, insulation, upstairs flooring and baseboards, bathroom/kitchen installation), so I don't know how soon I will be operational. I want to put some sort of epoxy coating on the new garage floor before I fully install the machinery. Given that the drawbar on the mill needs air to operate, I will be running an additional line from the compressor to the wall where the mill will end up.

I have been taking classes at the local votech school for the past two months using a Chevalier BP clone and a Harrison M350 lathe (bigger than the Monarch), so I do have a bit of experience with this scale machine. I'll continue with the classes at least through the Fall quarter. Not only do I get a lot of hands-on experience that way, but avoid a lot of the mistakes I read about from people who are learning from "hard knocks". It's nice to be able to ask the instructor how to do something the best way. I also get a good idea of what things I'll need to buy.

I unpacked the boxes from the truck last night. Found a few nice large end mills, a brand new pair of 123 blocks still wrapped in wax paper, an edge finder, and even an unused "kool mist" attachment still in the box. There are also a couple of R8 tool holders. The chuck wrench for the 6-jaw is too large for the 4-jaw, so I will likely try to make one in shop class. There are also 4 steel "pucks" for leveling the mill.

Here is the current state of the build:






As for lighting, I will be installing this type of light in the garage level:

http://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/commercial_lighting_fixtures_35_ctg.htm


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## robert1352

Wow!! I'm geting excited for you!! I wish I could have a shop like that.


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## Mcgyver

your first lathe is a monarch? hehe. go big or or go home, good for you - raises the bar big time on our expectations though ;D


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## te_gui

A Monarch 10EE is still kinda the gold standard in tool room lathes, I have ran a couple and helped a friend refurbish his. The variable speed comes from an DC motor generator setup. We used a variable frequency drive to convert to 3 phase, I can get specifics if you are interested.


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## kvom

I will be using the mill and lathe to fabricate parts for my Jeep, as well as for the model engine stuff. A mini-lathe wouldn't work too well. I also have a preference for older quality USA-built tools vs. new Chinese gear. Using a DRO on the lathe will be a new experience, as the Harrison I've been using doesn't have one.

The Monarch system has a 6.5HP AC 3PH motor driving a DC generator powering a 3HP DC motor, which in turn drives the spindle and feeds. Since a VFD normally needs to be 1.5 times the HP of the driven AC motor, I'd need a 10HP VFD. I think I may be better off running a 6-7HP RPC instead. That would also allow running any other 3PH machinery I might happen to get.

I will be attaching a 2HP VFD to the mill, as the mill doesn't have the multi-speed head. The VFD will allow me to set the motor speed without changing belts.

The mill has a caliper-type digital DRO for the spindle. In my school projects we have been using the knee to control depth of cut, so I am used to this method. It will be interesting to see how using the spindle for this will compare (certainly will take less energy).


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## Bogstandard

Kvom,



> The mill has a caliper-type digital DRO for the spindle. In my school projects we have been using the knee to control depth of cut, so I am used to this method. It will be interesting to see how using the spindle for this will compare (certainly will take less energy).



The reason for using the knee is for rigidity of the workpiece to cutter. The further out you have the quill, the less rigid it will be.

I am having to get used to using the knee again, rather than the quill, which really is designed for drilling and boring, not for putting cuts on with.

John


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## kvom

Today is the 2 month point since I got the building permits. Where I am now:

1) Roof is completed, along with the house at the same time.

2) Almost all of the wiring is done. My electrician friend is going to finish the panel this weekend. I still need to run two 12ga wires for the AC units, and am delaying until I know exactly where they will be located on the outside. I also need to run one more low-voltage wire for one of the door openers. I bought one piece 5' too short to run inside the framing. Should be able to call for inspection next week.

3) Plumbing is done and has passed inspection. Of course there are no fixtures as yet. I got the backerboard laid in the upstairs bathroom preparatory to laying tile.

4) Siding is 80% complete. The workers ran out of material last Friday, and it didn't get delivered until yesterday. Then the workers failed to show up today as their truck had broken down. Thery should be able to finish up tomorrow.

5) I ordered the AC units today, along with the requisite lineset piping. Once that gets laid in the walls I can get the framing inspection. There are also a few finishing items the framing crew needs to complete before I can call for inspection.

Still to do:

I'm going to wait for the inspections to be completed before I run coax cable for television and air hose in the walls. One air run will be to a hose reel mounted high on one wall. The other will be on the wall where the machinery will live. I need air to operate the drawbar on the mill.

The lower part of the front wall will be brick to match the house. They had to cut off a fair amount of brick to join the garage to the house, but there is insufficient old brick to cover the necessary area. So I'm going to bite the bullet and just get all new bncks (needs about 1000 bricks for 138 square feet. Still need a quote from a bricklayer).

After all rough inspections are passed the insulation guy will be followed by the drywall guy. Then the garage doors can be put in place. Then there are many DIY items: plumb in the bathroom, the downstairs sink, install the garage door openers and the AC units, mount all of the lights, connect the door opener controls, run caulk bead all along the sill boards on both levels. etc. etc. etc.

The long lead item may be routing power to the panel. I need to replace the current 200a meter base with a 400a model, which may take 4 weeks to arrive (it was ordered yesterday). Then I need to coordinate among my electrician, the power company, and the county inspector to do the switchover. They cut the power from the street early in the morning, and hopefully by evening everything is OK and the power can be cut back on.

If I can all that done and have the certificate of occupancy by November 1 I'll be happy (and lucky).


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## MadKad

:big: wow this isnt a shop its going to be a small factory :bow:

wish I had the space for something like this


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## wareagle

kvom, that's great news! Glad things are progressing for you.

On a project, you are really getting to the hardest part of the deal, now.  It seems like the last 20% of a job is what just kills the momentum. There's not any one reason, but it always ends up like that. The thing to do is keep plugging away at it and things will fall into place.

Can't wait to see the finished product!!


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## kvom

Picture update: sidings and cornices finally done.












My machining class starts up again next Thursday, so regardless of the work needed on the shop, I still get 8 hours or so a week on the machinery. 

I'm still hoping to bring home the Bridgeport next weekend. I scored a Servo drive on eBay to replace the defective Chinese x-axis drive. I will likely leave the lathe in place until there is power in the garage. The farm where it's living now will apparently have a crane on-site sometime in the future, which will likely be needed to load it on my trailer. If I get my automotive lift installed then it will lift the lathe off the trailer at home.


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## macona

Ever get power to the EE?

There is a misconception about VFDs. If the VFD is rated for single phase input then there is no derating required. A 5HP VFD will run a 5HP motor. If it is rated for 3phase only then you have derating issue.

A VFD would be a poor option to run the MG on a 10EE. I think te_gui was referring to replacing the motor-generator and main motor with a VFD and 3 phase motor. This has been done and is how Monarch does it if you order a new 10EE from them today. To do it right though you need to make an adapter that will mount the old backgear box on the new motor to keep the power at low speeds. Thats where the MG unit is great. It has lots of torque at low RPM.

The only real options for running a MG driven 10EE are true 3 phase or a RPC. I built mine from a 15hp motor someone gave me. Bad thing is the machine sucks power even when idling. With the RPC and the MG running I was pulling 20 amps at 240. And the spindle wasnt even running.

I scrapped the MG unit out of mine and replace everything with a brushless servo motor. Works great. Oodles of power at all speeds.


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## kvom

The Monarch is still on its trailer down in middle GA waiting for the shop to be done. Here is a pic from today, when I went down to pick up the Bridgeport.






The shop failed rough framing inspection on two issues that were corrected today. I called in for re-inspection, so that will be either Monday or Tuesday. After that I need:

1) Insulation install
2) Drywall install
3) Service change to hook power to the panel, and finish panel wiring
4) Brickmason to brick up front wall of the garage
5) Garage doors install
6) Install outdoor AC units
7) paint siding
8) install gutters

My DIY components are

1) Install lighting and electric outlets
2) Install indoor AC units
3) Install garage door openers
4) Install toilet and bathrom sink, then tile bathroom floor
5) Install hardwood or laminate flooring upstairs, then baseboards
6) Install thermostat and hook up pump for hydronic floor heating

Wife's DIY components are:

All interior painting

So lots of work still to come.


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## malcolmt

Hi Kvom
I must admit to a very small amount of toolroom jealousy here, you have the finest lathe waiting to be installed and a beautiful house. Just A thought have you considered an electrical cutoff to all the machines on exit i.e. a pushbutton or isolator to isolate all the machinery, that you can hit on the way out of the shop ? i have read of so many people having damage to equipment during your storms. at this stage it would be so simple to install. 

Kind regards

Malcolm


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## kvom

This followed me home on Friday:






I decided (actually the wife decided for me) to leave it in the new shop and let the insulation and drywall guys work around it, rather than move the pieces to the old garage. I should be able to move it to its final destination in a week to 10 days.

In the meantime I'm going to try to clean it up a bit and get the VFD wired to the motor.

Mill is a '65 vintage 9x42 with a 1HP motor. Came with a BP vise and a Newall C80 DRO, plus the air-operated drawbar. Visually it's in pretty good shape (ways and table look clean, spindle turns by hand smoothly).


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## ksouers

Looking real good, kvom!

Like Bernd said, this must have been the week for bringing mills home! We now have 3 mill installations going on at the same time!

That looks in great shape. Can't believe it's from 1965. Mine is 1974 (I think) and not nearly so clean. Looks like you have lots of Y axis travel, have you measured it yet?

Keep us up to date on all details of the set up and clean up.


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## kvom

My first job was to remove the old Chinese table drive. The end nut, handle, and degree ring all come off easily. However the bronze gear piece is joined to the end of the leadscrew by a woodruff key, and is a tight fit. I borrowed a 3-jaw bearing puller and managed to get it off, then drove the key out with a drift punch. After that it was simple to remove the 4 cap screws that held the drive to the table.

Then I wanted to put on the Servo drive that I had bought from eBay. The Servo uses only two of the screws, and as well uses a smaller bushing around tghe leadscrew shaft. Fortunately the guy I bought it from also included the bushing in a "box o'parts" he sent with the drive. I imagine I will need to drive the gear piece onto the shaft with a deadblow hammer, as it seems to be a press fit, but I am going to ask on the PM Bridgeport forum before I start pounding.

In the interim I spent about an hour cleaning the table and the ways using Simple Green, shop towels, and some fine Scotchbrite. Took a bit of elbow grease, but quite a few years of grime came away. I sprayed a coat of wd40 over everything, pending getting come way oil. As of this moment, the base under the knee is soaking in Simple Green, as it's the filthiest spot.


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## Divided He ad

Hi Kvom, (I know I know your real name... just every one is calling you your tag.... So I did to!) 
I was just reading your list of thigs to do and wondered if the 





> 5) Garage doors install


 Was in need of an experienced fitter... Willing to travel and technically will do the fit for free... If the flight is paid for  ;D .... Seriously.... :big: 


Your shop is looking really good, I dream of such space  :'( 


Consider my offer carefully before laughing me off the interweb  


Ralph.


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## CrewCab

Divided He ad  said:
			
		

> Consider my offer carefully before laughing me off the interweb



And of course, I'll be happy to tag along and pass Ralph the spanners ;D

CC







PS: ................. Looking good KV 8)


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## Hilmar

Kvom 



> My thought is to put 110 outlets every 6' or so along two walls at 48" height. I will be doing the wiring, and friend who is an electrician will supervise. Since the studs are 16" apart, I can space outlets pretty liberally. The third wall, where the lift will be, will have a couple of outlets, but since I can't put a workbench on that side few are needed.


 
  I would put the same amount of outlets on that wall also. You don't have to use them now
 but to install some later may be a PAIN you know where. $20.00 now or $200.00 later.
 who knows what will be 2 Years from now.
Hilmar


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## kvom

I counted: 13 double 110v outlets upstairs, 14 down. Plus 4 230V outlet sockets (1 for lift, 1 for compressor, 2 utility for welder, etc.). In addition there are 2 separate 230V circuits for the mill and lathe. For the mill the circuit will terminate in a 2HP VFD; for the lathe in a 7.5HP RPC. 

In other news, the rough framing inspection has passed, and the insulation will be installed tomorrow, as will the gutters and downspouts.

Coax for cable TV in both levels has been run, and hooked to the house. About a week ago my next door neighbor's cable went out. The repair guy determined that the buried cable was bad and ran a new cable from the street box to the side of his house. As soon as he had left I turned on our TV to find that it was out. Seems in connecting the neighbor's cable to the box he had busted ours. Next day they show up and run a new cable from the box to our house. 

In both cases the cable is left aboveground, as the burial is done by a separate contracted outfit. They showed up today and wanted to know if there was a pipe under my driveway through which they could fish the cable. There isn't. So the solution we came up with is for them to bury a cable from the street up to the front right corner of the garage. We routed it through the wall and up over the doors to the far side, where I had already placed a splitter for the two garage outlets. They replaced my 1-2 splitter with a 1-3 and ran the third output to the house connection. The best part is that they used a better grade of coax than the cable company, and I now don't need to put a splitter outside on the house to route the service into the garage.

Airhose has been run and is waiting for the compressor to find it's new home.

I spent some more time cleaning the base and knee of the mill, and it looks almost as good as new. They really put thick paint on these machines, and even the few places with nicks don't show any bare metal. 

On the head I removed both the switch and the brake lever, both of which shouldn't be used when operating with the VFD. Since the switchbox mounts to the motor and has cutouts for the power cable, I'm thinking about removing the switch component and re-using the box for reconnecting the VFD power output lines.


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## ksouers

Congratulations on the inspection! Another step closer to completion.

You're right about the paint. They all do it, helps smooth out the finish. You'll also find body putty in places used to fair corners and hide rough spots on the castings.


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## JonnyD

Beautiful shop for a well deserving 10EE. Can't wait to see what you make when everything is up.


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## kvom

The past two days the drywall installer guys were hanging. Left quite a mess on the floors. Apparently a cleanup crew will come tomorrow, and the day after they will start the tape/mud/sand process. I will be glad to get that over with, as then I can back on the DIY items.

I have quotes for the front brickwork as well as the garage doors, two of the last things to go in.

A friend gave me a tube with fittings that seem to work on the leaky oiler on the mill. Unfortunately it's 3 feet long. At least it will work until I find a true replacement.

Originally I was going to put the VFD on the wall and wire the mill to it, but now I think I'll mount the VFD on the mill itself and put a single plase 230 outlet on the wall instead.

Still shopping for a motor for an RPC for the lathe.


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## wareagle

kvom, what size motor is actually on the lathe?


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## kvom

AC motor is ~6HP


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## wareagle

PM sent.


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## Divided He ad

Divided He ad  said:
			
		

> Hi Kvom, (I know I know your real name... just every one is calling you your tag.... So I did to!)
> I was just reading your list of thigs to do and wondered if the
> 
> '5) Garage doors install'
> 
> Was in need of an experienced fitter... Willing to travel and technically will do the fit for free... If the flight is paid for ;D .... Seriously.... :big:
> 
> 
> Your shop is looking really good, I dream of such space :'(
> 
> 
> Consider my offer carefully before laughing me off the interweb
> 
> 
> Ralph.




So you have not yet had the doors fitted...... The offer still stands ;D 8)   


Sounds like it won't be too long before you are making all sorts of pretty coloured chips  

I still have a great deal of 'space envy' !


Ralph.


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## kvom

Sorry DH, the fitting is included in the price of the doors 

The cleanup crew got all of the unused drywall and associated mess out of the site yesterday, and did an excellent job. The wife, who is a bit of a neat freak, was even impressed. Hopefully the taping crew will show up today despite the rain.

The local lumberyard guy came over yesterday to firm up the trim needs. It looks as if I can do almost all the finish trim myself: stairs (skirts, risers, treads, handrail), 5 interior doors, window trim, in addition to the rest of the DIY parts I'm already signed up for. There's one window in the stairwell that's about 15' high, and I think I'll need to hire that one out. I should be getting the materials delivered next Thursday.

My weekend shopping list includes tile and a vanity/sink for the bathroom, the smoke detectors, and some miscellaneous utility light fixtures.


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## kvom

One drywall guy has been at work all day today taping the joints. The hispanic workers have no problem working weekends it seems.

Wife found a bunch of lantern light fixtures at a neighborhood garage sale. 6 new-in-box for $25! I'll use two for my side entry doors, 2 are for a friend's Christmas present, and 2 are spares. They also had one of the most important shop machines: the beer fridge. Nice midsize unit, practically new, for $75.


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## wareagle

kvom, it sounds like things are coming together for you! How excited are you about the new play pen??


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## Divided He ad

> Sorry DH, the fitting is included in the price of the doors



Aww nuts! There goes the busmans holiday idea!! :big: 

Darth tater, 

Do you not think beer and machinery could be a bad combination?  :-\ Admittedly you may well be good for one or two when you get it ready to be christened ;D 


Ralph.


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## kvom

> How excited are you about the new play pen??


I am thinking right now about how much DIY work there will be to get it finished. If I can get the certificate of occupancy in 3-4 weeks, then I will have heated space to work in during the colder months to finish up. 

Since I get 8-10 hours a week in shop class, I will likely not do much with the new machines right away, other than getting them in running condition.

As for the beer fridge: in addition to machining this will be an automotive shop, and the Jeep crowd often works in groups. The beer part is for afterwards. It will also free up shelf space in the kitchen fridge.


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## kvom

We spent $200 today at Home Depot buying paint and painting supplies. The garage level will have white walls and ceiling. Upstairs will have white ceiling and medium blue walls. Wife and kids are going to paint the ceiling near the light fixtures, the bathroom, and the back garage wall where the mill and lathe will go first. Then we can mount the lights and move the mill to its future home location and not worry about having to paint around stuff. 

I got a UPS package today with two electrical enclosures I ordered on Monday (fast service!). These will be use to wire the Bridgeport mill as follows:

a) The 230v 1PH circuit dedicated to the mill currently terminates in a box inset in the wall. I intend to mount a 12x12x6 metal Nema-1 enclosure on the wall over this box, and route the wire (12-3) into the box via a hole cut in the back.

b) My VFD will be attached to the back of the box with screws, centered so that there is plenty of space on all sides. The input wire will be attached to the input lines on the VFD.

b) The shielded cable that came with the mill will be routed through a knockout in the box, secured with a cable clamp, and wired to the 3-phase output leads in the VFD.

c) The other end of the cable will be routed to a 4x4x4 Nema-1 enclosure, through a knockout, and secured with a cable clamp. The wires from the mill's motor will mate to the cable inside the enclosure, passing though a knockout, and the enclosure itself will be attached to the side of the motor in the same place the switch was originally. This setup means no outlets or plugs will be needed, and everything will be protected from chips and dust inside the enclosures.

d) The small control panel for the VFD will be remoted via a cable supplied by the vendor. I will route this cable via a knockout in the enclosure and enclose it in flexible cable shielding. The panel itself will be attached to the mill in a position to be determined. I plan to mill a protective aluminum bezel that will fit around the panel and which will also provide a means to attach a mounting bracket of some sort.

I've been advised that the enclosure is large enough so that the heat generated by the VFD will be dissipated, and so can be left completed closed.

I'll try to take pictures of the setup in case anyone is interested.


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## Propforward

In case anyone is interested?

YES PLEASE!

I love seeing other peoples work - gives me ideas on how to go about my own projects. I would love to see pics!


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## ksouers

Of course we're interested!


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## Cedge

Kvom
Sounds like a plan you got going there. One item conspicuously missing is any mention of a cut off at the wall. Experience being a nasty teacher.... when something begins to smoke, it's a real bad time to discover the only means of electrical cut off is in the main panel, --------------------------------------> way across the room. 

Steve


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## kvom

Steve,

That's an excellent point. I'll talk to my electrician friend this weekend about adding a cutoff. I think I can add a fused cutoff similar to that for AC units without compromising the plan.


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## kvom

The drywall guy finished taping/mudding yesterday, and the sanding crew will be working Monday. Tuesday the trim materials get delivered and I will have my hands full for quite a while.

Tomorrow my electrician friend and I will be working; he's finishing the panel wiring and the switched, and I'll be installing the 110v outlets and the exterior lights.

Here's a shot of how the bottom looks today:







The stairs leading up:






Twenty steps up to the landing, the 3 more to the upper level. Valerie will be staining the treads (yellow pine) and painting the risers and skirt boards before I start installing them later in the week. The handrail is 20' one-piece oak.






 View of the upstairs looking towards the house side and the bathroom. I plan to tile the bathroom floor starting Tuesday morning. We found a great vanity cabinet/sink on CL that I will pickup today and install once the tile is grouted, along with the toilet. My first solo plumbing effort.


----------



## wareagle

kvom, I'll throw a little piece of friendly advice your way, wrap anything you have in the area (IIRC, your mill is in there) in plastic and make sure it is sealed well before the crew starts sanding. That stuff will be everywhere before they are finsished. So if you have machines, cabinets, or whatever hanging out waiting for the project to be ready for placement and you don't want sanding dust in and on them, then I highly suggest covering them up. Cheap painter's drop cloths will work, trash bags or the like. Avoid using cloth or canvas for this because the dust is so fine it will bypass the fibers of the cloths and still go where you don't want it (the volume would be less, but it still gets through).

The project is looking great! Hang in there, it looks like you have made it to the top of the hill.


----------



## kvom

The mill is covered and in the center of the garage floor, and there is nothing else currently in the building that is moveable.

Today we got the majority of the remaining electrical work done: all of the outlets are installed except one GFI outlet upstairs, as well as all of the switches, the outside fused disconnects for the AC, and the panel wiring. Still to do are lights, connect the water heater, thermostat and pump controller the the floor heat, and the VFD/RPC stuff.

I noticed the the drywaller sealed up one of the two wires I ran for a garage door opener, so they'll need to cut open the ceiling to retrieve it tomorrow.

Saturday I found a bathroom vanity cabinet complete with sink top and faucets on CL, perfect size and in good shape. Only mods needed are to move the towel rack to the opposite side.  

This week they finally finished laying all of the drainage tubes for the gutters, so the next rainstorm won't flood the driveway hopefully.

Trim materials arrive Tuesday in theory.


----------



## kvom

The drywall is now sanded, leaving a pervasive layer of fine dust all over the floors. I had the mill covered up with tarps; yesterday the girls painted the rear wall, and washed the floor, getting a fair amount of the dust out. Today Valerie is putting a second code of paint on the wall, and we will make another pass on the floor. I expect to move the mill base to its destination late this afternoon and then remount the head/ram. Pics to follow.

I likely won't have power for another 2 weeks. I should be able to test the air-operated drawbar.


----------



## wareagle

kvom, when you are finsihed that will be a very nice space. You are heading into the hardest part of the project, though; finishing. I can't tell you what, how or why it always seems to work out like that, but it does. Stick with it, though. It is looking great!

All my best for a quick and easy finish.


----------



## kvom

Wife and I got the base in its destination spot, but had trouble mounting the ram. It is head-side heavy, and she couldn't put enough weight on the back to get it level enough to lower. Going to wait for a friend to come over.






We got most of the dust swept up; the bathroom got its second coat of paint, as did the rear wall of the garage. Valerie started on the garage ceiling. We're both pooped! More of the same tomorrow.


----------



## Bernd

Yup, she's going to be a bit top heavy. Swing the motor 180 degress so it points down. Much more stable. 

Check how I got the ram off my Bridgeport here: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3080.0

The fourth pic down. It's a bit more stable.

Bernd


----------



## Brass_Machine

I am sooooo jealous. Looking good!


Eric


----------



## kvom

Got the bathroom floor tile put down on Friday, although I ended up 3 tiles short. Made the run to Home Depot today to get 3 more and will get them laid tomorrow. Then grouting and I'll be ready to install the vanity/sink and toilet.

A friend came over this morning to help and we got the mill put back together. The head needs a bit of TLC to be looking good.

A bit later the bricking crew showed up to lay the front facade. Five guys working pretty fast had it together in about 5 hours:






Finished result:






They cleaned up pretty well, and put all the broken pieces in the bed of my truck, so all I need to do is make a quick trip to the landfill on Monday.


----------



## kustomkb

It's looking great!

Love that ceiling height.


----------



## kvom

The trim material was delivered today, and the wife got right onto paiting and staining all the pieces for building the stairs. The scaffold makes a nice drying rack:






I got the sink plumbed in as well as the pump. although one of the PVC joints has an annoying drip leak. I'll try some plumbers putty around the joint, and iof that doesn't work I guess I'll need to cut it out and try again.  

I also got the bathroom tile grouted, and now have officially retired all of my tile-laying tools. You heard it here first!

I hope to get a good start on the stairs before machining class tomorrow.


----------



## CrewCab

kvom  said:
			
		

> one of the PVC joints has an annoying drip leak. I'll try some plumbers putty around the joint, and iof that doesn't work I guess I'll need to cut it out and try again.



Kvom, re-do the joint 8) trust me on this one 

CC


----------



## malcolmt

Kvom

I'm With CC on this one, With twenty eight years as a qualified plumber and gas installer, I promise it will come back and haunt you just when you need it least. They always do !!!!!

Kind regards

Malcolm


----------



## wareagle

kvom, third vote here on plumbing leak. Okay, plumbing is cheap, and you are right there. Fix it and be done with it, or face a big mess later and kick yourself for not fixing it while you were there!

I am no plumber, but I have a simple philosophy about plumbing... any plumbing loint is one of three things, 1) it leaks; translates into redoing it, 2) it holds, but doesn't fit right; translates into a redo, and 3) it went together right and doesn't leak; translates into "How did the happen?".  :big: ;D


----------



## Brass_Machine

Make that a 4th on that re-do. Better done right than patched. Ask me how I know....


Eric


----------



## kvom

You all convinced me, so I cut out the offending joint and re glued it. The particular piping is and always will be exposed, as it's to the sink pump. The pump has to lift a 1.5" column of water up about 13', so there's always some head in the exhaust pipe.

In other news, the upstairs room is about 95% painted (wife ran out of light before finishing), and I managed to cut and install all but the last 5 steps in the staircase.

Tomorrow my electrician buddy and I will finish all of the remaining electrical work(other than the service change). Tasks on the list:

1) add remaining breakers to the panel.
2) install all exterior lights and the exterior switched outlet
3) install ceiling can light over the shower
4) wire water heater, thermoststat, radiant heating pump
5) wire VFD and disconnect to the mill
6) start on ceiling lights (he'll demonstrate first couple and I'll do the rest later

Job list for Sunday and into next week:

1) finish steps
2) hang handrail in staircase
3) add molding to stairs
4) install toilet and vanity
5) keep adding lighting fixtures

Garage doors should arrive middle of next week.


----------



## DICKEYBIRD

Wow, what an awesome project kvom! :bow: Thanks for sharing. It's getting close enough now that you ought'a be having trouble getting to sleep at night thinking about the quality shop time that's just around the corner.

I remember back when I was young, energetic and financially equipped enough to take on a project like that. Sigh, them days is over. :'(


----------



## kvom

My youth is past, and neither the energy or financials are what they were a year ago.  

Work finished today, before it got too cold:

1) Outside: door lights, waterproof outlet, and front spotlights installed.
2) 2 of 4 smoke detectors installed
3) First of 8 flourescent fixtures installed
4) bathroom lights installed
5) VFD wired to the mill, although still missing cutoff switch at enclosure
6) Rest of breakers installed in the panel
7) 3 stairsteps installed, so only 2 to go
8) Water heater wired

Looks as if the electricity won't be turned on in the garage until Dec. 5, so I'll have a fair amount of time to get everything else finished up.


----------



## wareagle

kvom, it's great to hear you are winding it down! I, for one, and ready to see you making chips in the new place! Great work and thanks for taking us along on the journey.


----------



## kvom

The garage doors were installed yesterday, which makes a big difference now that it's pretty cold and windy outside. With the doors closed it was pretty comfortable working inside this morning, even with no heat.

We got two more of the ceiling flourescent fixtures installed in the garage this morning, as well as the last smoke detector. Three more fixtures to go.


----------



## Cedge

Kvom
You got the beer on ice yet? I like my steaks medium rare....LOL

Steve


----------



## kvom

Over the weekend and today:

1) Finished installing all of the light fixtures, plus the 30 T5 bulbs that came with them.
2) Bathroom vanity plumbed as well as the toilet
3) Hung the bathroom door (unfortunately not as straight as it should be)
4) Started work on moldings for the stairs and windows
5) Added the entry moldings for the closet opening

I found out today that the rear shop entry door from the stairway has the wrong casing, so took it back. I'll get the door witb the 6.5" casing back sometime next week.

Electricity cutover is on schedule for Dec. 5.


----------



## kvom

I received my early Christmas package via UPS today, the RPC panel I ordered on eBay from Anderson Converters. I took it over to the local electric motor repair shop, where I had located a new GE 7.5HP motor a couple of weeks ago. The shop owner hooked the panel up to the motor, applied 230V input power, and the motor started right up! We measured the voltage on each of the 3 phases as 240, 240, and 250, so it's pretty well balanced.

So once my shop power gets hooked up next week I should be able to be ready for the lathe to come home.


----------



## kvom

First time using the space as a garage-shop: greased the front wheel and spindle bearings preparatory to a ride on Friday:


----------



## kvom

Friday was an off day ... took the Jeep offroading at Tellico. I left it at a friend's house on the way home, where it will receive some tube fenders and crusher corners.

It's been cold/rainy the past 3 days. We managed to finish the moldings around all the windows and doors, plus hung the handrail in the stairs. I picked up window stop moldings for the downstairs transom windows and should be able to install that tomorrow. I'd also like to hang the two interior doors tomorrow before needing to head to class.

I placed my first Enco order today in anticipation of actually making some chips in the garage soon, given that the mill should have power on Friday.


----------



## ksouers

Getting closer!!!

When does the Monarch come home?


Kevin


----------



## 1Kenny

This is great watching your shop come together. Everthing you have done looks real nice.

Kenny


----------



## kvom

ksouers  said:
			
		

> When does the Monarch come home?



The lathe is on a farm in central GA, but the owners live near Hilton Head. Basically I plan to pick it up the next time they tell me they will be going to the farm. I still don't know for sure if I will be able to lift it off the trailer with my engine hoist. Some people say it weighs ~3000 lbs, but the manual mentions 2500. I recently bought a 5500 lb. pallet jack, so once I do get it unloaded I should be able to move it into position fairly easily.

My Enco order included oil for the headstock, and I know I will need to get a belt from Monarch to replace the frayed one on the lathe. I still need to order some oil for the spindles.

The first order of business will be to see if the electrics work. I can hook the power up and try the motors and generators without engaging the spindle or any of the gears. After that it's drain/replace all the fluids and try her out.


----------



## Cedge

Kvom
Cute little car!!. Will it be a CJ5 when it gets ripe?  :big: 

Steve


----------



## kvom

Electricity was cutover today ;D

Local EMC and my electrician friends arrived about the same time at 8:45 to cut off power to the house and start the meter base replacement. Everything outside was buttoned up at 1:15 and the county inspector arrived at 1:30. At first he said, "looks like you everything right," but after a couple of seconds he saw a flaw. Even though the feeder cables we used are approved for in-ground burial, it seems that for this application they were supposed to be encased in conduit. I stated that we were not going to pour concrete over it, so he let it pass.

He called it in, and we had to wait until almost 4:00 for the EMC to show up to reconnect the power and install the new meter.

Once they left we verified everything we could in short order. So far everything is working. There are a couple of bulbs in the ceiling fixture that didn't light up, and one closet light needed to have its wires tightened. The control panel on the VFD lit up, so that it a plus. It is quite cold in the garage, so I will wait to program the VFD later and then try the mill.

Sunday morning I'm headed down to get the lathe. Looks as if Sunday afternoon I'll be testing all the outlets, programming the VFD, and finishing programming the garage door openers.

Chips may be made soon.


----------



## ksouers

kvom,
My mill makes a thumping sound if the belt isn't adjusted properly, it's definitely in the pulley stack. Perhaps the same for yours.


Kevin


----------



## artrans

I bet the pulley is hitting each other because the pins on the piece above the spindle that changes the gearing to low. when the pins wear it allows the pulley to drop down to far.My bridgeport did the exact thing you are talking about hope I am making sense.


----------



## kvom

The lathe and bandsaw are sitting on the trailer parked in the shop, waiting to see if I can get them unloaded. We'll see if the engine hoist can handle the lathe. If I can lift it off I can set it on a pallet jack for further positioning.

The sellers had a hefty gantry crane with two chain hoists at their farm, so loading went smoothly, as did the drive home.


----------



## ksouers

Glad you (and the lathe) made it home safe.

Now, where's the pics ;D


----------



## kvom

Pics to follow.

They also loaded my "free" horizontal bandsaw on the trailer. It weighs "only" about 300 lbs, but was awkward getting to it with the engine hoist and over the trailer's fenders. Finally got it unloaded just now. It's an old Johnson that will be a restoration project after the lathe is running.


----------



## kvom

Here's the gear loaded on the trailer:







Lathe sitting on the trailer in the shop with the covers off:


----------



## ksouers

kvom,
That lathe looks in real great shape! It'll clean up real nice with just a little Simple Green and some paper towels.

How was the ride with that much tongue weight? 

Best of luck getting it unloaded, and be safe. Don't get any body parts between it and any immovable objects.

Kevin


----------



## Maryak

kvom,

Add my congratulations to Kevin's. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




What is Simple Green ???

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## ksouers

Bob,
Simple Green is a cleaner/degreaser available here in the US. It's supposed to be environmentally friendly. It works very well. It works best if left to sit for a moment or two before wiping off, but be careful. It can remove paint quite effectively. I've used it to clean up everything from big diesel trucks and my mill to the car interior/exterior and greasy, grungy stove in a house I rented out.

http://www.simplegreen.com/

Looks like they have a distributor in NSW
http://globalpartners.simplegreen.com/australia.php
So, it should be available in OZ. Commonly found in auto parts stores and home remodel stores around here.


Kevin


----------



## jack404

Simple green is great bob

but it eats aluminium!! so watch that ... but everything else go for it 

spray on, maybe wipe it in , leave for 5-10 and hose off, literally 

the hardware at Mardon ( when i was living in SA) stocked it and mitre 10 seems to carry it too

aint seen it at bunnings yet but i kinda dont go there much so maybe its there

cheers

jack


----------



## kvom

The lathe and saw together weigh less than the Jeep I normally haul on the trailer, although the weight distribution was a bit further forward than normal. In any case I was surprised that the rear suspension didn't go down much at all (the photo angle is deceptive). Truck can legally tow 13K pounds.

Yesterday I was still working on "little stuff", so lathe was ignored. Got the garage door openers and remote light working correctly finally, plus hung the interior shop entry door. This morning I've been commanded by the wife to remove the pile of scrap lumber in the driveway, so a drive to the landfill is in the cards.

I hung the RPC panel on the wall and have a list of connectors to buy to wire it up.

The good news (for me) is that we were able to start cleaning up stuff from upstairs, where the flooring is the only major to-do left. That will be a January project.

Today is also the last shop day at school, so I need to decide what engine part to attempt.


----------



## Maryak

Kevin & Jack,

Thanks for the answer re simple green.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## CrewCab

Kvom, that Monarch looks a nice piece of kit .............. and I know a photo can't tell the whole story but ........ it looks from here that a quick wipe down and plug it in ............ and it will be ready for action .............. enjoy 8) 

CC


----------



## kvom

I got a nice "surprise" this morning while working on cleaning the lathe. It has a taper attachment! The seller didn't mention it, and because Monarchs have a removeable protective cover over the TA I wasn't aware it was there until today.

Other than a missing way clamp it seems to be complete and in decent shape. Looks as if there is a company that makes the clamp part as well, so I should be able to cut tapers at some point,


----------



## ksouers

That is a nice surprise. The seller probably didn't know it was there. Or is it standard on a Monarch?

Since you are cleaning, did you get it unloaded?


Kevin


----------



## shred

ksouers  said:
			
		

> That is a nice surprise. The seller probably didn't know it was there. Or is it standard on a Monarch?
> 
> Kevin


Supposedly taper attachments are pretty common on 10EEs, but I don't think they were standard.


----------



## kvom

I am cleaning it while it sits inside on the trailer. The RPC will be ready to go Sunday morning, when my electrician friend is coming by with a 3PH outlet/plug. Looking for a wrecker/forklift/bobcat to unload it at a reasonable price.

TA's were an option. Other options included a "variator", which is a gear-driven TA that could cut longer/steeper tapers, with the angle depending on the gearing.


----------



## wareagle

kvom, it sounds like you have things going your way! And you new toys look very nice as well. I am sure you'll get a few hours enjoyment with them.


----------



## kvom

My electrician friend didn't show Sunday; his grandfather had to be taken to the hospital. So now he'll finish the RPC wiring this coming weekend. I did wire the panel to the motor and connected the 230V power to the panel via wire nuts. However, when I turned on the switch, all I got was humming from the panel and nothing from the motor. I guess I'll wait until my friend can check my work.

On a positive note I succeeded in wiring together the thermostat, pump controller, and pump for the radiant floor. When I turned on the breaker, everything lit up as it should, and the pump is running. It will probably take a while to warm the floor enough to notice.

I'm still looking for someone to move the lathe off the trailer. So far everyone I've talked to about it wants $150 or so. I may have to bite the bullet on that one.


----------



## Cedge

Kvom...
Have you installed the car lift yet?

Steve


----------



## kvom

That won't be until after we get the CO (and hopefully stock market improves).


----------



## Cedge

Ouch!!... on both accounts. I feel your pain. I was right in the middle of some extensive home remodeling when the Tech Bubble ruptured. 

The lift would have made short work of the problem. Just rig it to do the lifting and you're on your way. 

Steve


----------



## shred

I was hoping you'd try it with the engine hoist.. I've got my eye on a local EE, see .


----------



## kvom

shred  said:
			
		

> I was hoping you'd try it with the engine hoist.. I've got my eye on a local EE, see .



I tried with the engine hoist. From the headstock end the base casting is too wide for me to get the hook close enough. And from the side closest I still can't reach it. If there was a way to get the lathe close to the edge it might work. I think it might reach from the tailstock end, but unfortunately the lathe is too close to the front.

Since it weighs between 2500 and 300 pounds, I'd need to set the boom to the 1-1/2 ton length, which is not that long.


----------



## Bernd

Some 1.5" pipe under the lathe. Block the trailer wheels good. Tip the tounge of the trailer up a couple of inches so the lathe will roll toward the back. Put the jeep in front of the tounge and use the winch to control the roll back. On the tailend of the trailer you'll need a ramp to let the lathe down. 

Kind of like I did it with the Bridgeport here http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3080.0

Bernd


----------



## kvom

I had considered something like that. Issues:

1) Lifting the base enough to get the pipe underneath.

2) Jeep is at as friend's place and I'd need the trailer to get it home

3) Building a suitable ramp

In any case, I have a boom wrecker coming at 1:00pm to move it. ;D







Biga$$ wrecker, the kind they haul semis with. Good thing as its boom was at full extension. Also a good thing my garage door is 10' high - 9' would have been too low.

Lathe is now safely sitting on two pieces of 4x4 waiting for further attention,  ;D


----------



## ksouers

Yippee ;D :bow:

Hope nothing got bent or broke.


----------



## CrewCab

WTG Kvom, glad you got it sorted, at 3000lbs you not going to need to bolt it down mind 8)

CC


----------



## Maryak

Now that's a LATHE 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Lucky you 

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Brass_Machine

Those Monarchs are sexy!

I am sooo jealous

Eric


----------



## kvom

The pallet jack is a lifesaver for moving this thing around. Got it in position where the power cable will reach the eventual plug, and finished the major cleanup (old swarf and gunk in the coolant wells).

I put the DRO back in place and did a bit of a test of the DRO vs. the crossfeed dial. They seem to differ between 17 and 1 tenths across a single turn (.125"). Should be plenty accurate for my purposes.

Hopefully it will have power tomorrow.  :


----------



## Propforward

Holy Moly Kvom - you're not fooling around are you? That's a mighty fine machine!

So much for model engineering - just make the full size thing! :bow:


----------



## kvom

I was hoping to have the lathe powered on Sunday, but my electrician friend didn't make it (issues with his Jeep). Instead I watched the Falcons football game.

Saturday we shopped for flooring for the upstairs. Looks as if we will out down a floating laminate floor that looks like pine.

Today I drained all of the oil in the lathe and relubed it.

We are heading to Florida for a family visit over Christmas; might get the lathe working next weekend.


----------



## ksouers

kvom,
The T-nuts may have been hardened, or at least case hardened. Probably ruined the end mill right away, too.

I did something similar with my big vise. The tops of the jaws were not even, nor flat, so I decided to take a couple thou off the top. The fixed jaw was soft and cleaned up nicely, but found out the hard way the movable jaw was hardened. Didn't do any good for the brand new end mill.

Kevin


----------



## lathe nut

kvom, that is one nice looking lathe, I really like those, bet they are hard to come by, I say that I am going going to buy anymore lathes this year or like my wife said never, not even in the next life, sure would like one like that, the high quality, glad for U, going to have fun now, Lathe Nut


----------



## shred

I have a line on a local 10EE for a decent price... but while I'd really like it, I've yet to find a reasonable way to wedge yet another lathe in, especially not a 2000+ pounder


----------



## kvom

Still can't get the electrician friend to show up with my parts :big: He just got engaged and probably thinks spending time with her is better than with me.  ???

The family and I just finished laying the flooring in the upstairs room over the shop. We put down 8mm laminate with a pre-attached padding as a floating floor. Pattern is a medium cherry woodgrain. We did the work over 3 days. The individual pieces are 48"x7-5/8" and interlock. Although they are supposed to snap together, in reality you need to hit each piece with a hammer on a block of wood to get each piece seated to the two adjoining. Still it was easier than the hardwood I put in out living-room/dining room a few years back. The room has 5 corners to cut around plus 3 doors and a small closet, so some planning was necessary to avoid needing very thin strips along the walls at the end. I measured each corner from the start wall and determined that if I started with a full-width row, I would have at least 3" clearance at each corner.

Tomorrow I will get the baseboard and quarter-round moulding to finish it up.


----------



## kvom

The baseboard and quarter round have been painted, so I will be installing them today. Hopefully my back and knees will survive.

My electrician friend has definitely committed to showing up Sunday morning to finish wiring up the RPC and 10EE, so I will cross my fingers that the lathe will power up once that's done. His buddy is also coming over Sunday to estimate finishing the install of the AC units, which are the main remaining to-dos before scheduling the final inspections.


----------



## kvom

I got the rotab mounted today. Cut one of the medium length clapming bolts in half with the angle grinder.

After centering it under the mill spindle, I wanted to use it to round off a brass part on both ends. Unfortunately when rounding the second end the part slipped sideways and gashed the end pof the part.

I think I can probably salvage it. It's part of a crankshaft, so I drilled/reamed the hole about which the end is to be rounded (3/16"). I then drilled a 3/16" diameter hole in the sacrificial aluminum plate on the rotab. I will put a piece of 3/16" drill rod in the hole and through the part, so that it can't slip under pressure of the mill.

Otherwise, I did finish the baseboards upstairs, got the showerhead installed (it was missing from the box I got a Lowes, so had to ask them for the head and the pipe).

I had an A/C guy come by to get an estimate for finishing install of the units. The friend who was going to do it for free has disappeared from view.


----------



## kvom

Good news and bad news:

Good news is that the RPC/3PH wiring is all complete. Lathe is connected to a wall receptacle and the remote switch will turn on the idler motor and panel.  ;D

Bad news is that hitting the motor start switch on the lathe results in exactly nothing. No clicks, whirrs, etc.  

Fortunately I have the wiring schematic for the lathe, and the Monarch forum guys on PM are really supportive. I was hoping not to have to dig into lathe's electrical innards though.


----------



## steamer

Keep at it KVOM.  Those Monarchs are notorious electrically, but when their running......SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!


----------



## Bernd

I'd use a volt meter to check to see if you are getting voltage to the machine first. Check at the terminals at the main disconnect switch on the machine to see if you even have power to the machine.

Welcome to machine wiring 101. Used to do this at the place I worked. Check the fuses to see that they are OK. Should be three, probably Buss Fuses (brand name). You'll probably find them right after the main switch.

Good luck and happy hunting. 

Bernd


----------



## kvom

I tested power up to the 3 wirenuts in a box on the back of the lathe.

After posting on PM, I am led to a panel behind the headstock that I have not as yet removed. The fuses and contactor are apparently in there. I will be investigating later this morning.


----------



## Kermit

Be sure about your phase connections. reversing one phase will produce little to no movement also, but you'll be able to hear the motor protest!


----------



## kvom

The motor would run in either direction. However, it need to run in the proper direction to prevent damage to the brushes. Once it does start and in the wrong direction, reversing any 2 of the 3 leads will fix the problem.

After more investigation, guided by some PM experts, it appears that the coil on the contactor is not being activated. Either the coil is bad, or there is a short/open circuit between the start switch and the coil. Hopefully I can determine which pretty soon.

I did determine that there is voltage at the input terminals of the contactor, and also at the switch terminals.


----------



## Kermit

are there any interlocks in the power circuit? Door safety switches etc. etc.?


----------



## kvom

You know how the stop/off switches on machine tools are all RED? Well on the 10EE the start switch is red and the stop switch is black. So I have been trying to start the lathe with the stop switch. Reading the nice bronze switch panel would have helped.

In any case, I finally saw the light and pressed the correct button. The MG started right up ;D I did have to switch two of the wires to get the correct rotation, but after doing so I was able to start the spindle and test the feeds. I might even decide to make some chips tonight, although I'm not sure if I have any good tools. I do have some stock that needs to be drilled, however.

In any case, going through the process revealed a few existing shortcomings. At one point the lathe was rehabbed, and the motor starter was replaced. Whoever replaced it put in the wrong size overload coils, and then didn't wire them up properly either. The experts on PM set me straight, and as well indicated that adding some fuses for safety would be a good idea.

Outside of the lathe, my friend who helped me run the AC lineset and wiring in the framing is coming over tomorrow to finish installation of the inside and outside units. That's the major to-do item left before going for final inspections.


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## artrans

You no that reminds me of a story someone I no built a street rod and if had to bleed the brakes so his wife got in the car and he told her what to do. So he said pump she would pump hold it he would open the bleeder two master cly later and vac booster still no brakes.She was pumping the clutch pedal never torched the brake pedal. :fan: :wall: please I not making fun strange stuff happens you never no we all been there at one point or another


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## Maryak

kvom  said:
			
		

> You know how the stop/off switches on machine tools are all RED? Well on the 10EE the start switch is red and the stop switch is black. So I have been trying to start the lathe with the stop switch. Reading the nice bronze switch panel would have helped.



Thanks for that :bow:

Now we all know that not all machine tool switches are RED for off/stop.

Great tip for restorers/renovators of machine tools. Now that you mentioned it, some time ago, I had use of an old Cincinnati Mill with that switch configuration.

Best Regards
Bob


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## kvom

Got the inside AC units installed yesterday by a friend. The outside units are hooked up to the linesets, and I have only to finish some electrical hookups outside. Just got back from HD with the stuff I need for that.

I did start on making an air manifold on the lathe. Chucked a 6" piece of 1.5" square 6061 bar stock in the 4-jaw, centered it by eyeball, and drilled a 7/16" hole for the length of my drill bit. I then tapped the hole for 1/4-18 NPT. I think I'll like working with the 10ee! I don't have any turning tools, so Tuesday at school I'm going to grind a few 3/8" HSS bits.

I ordered a fuseholder and mini 30a fuses to add to the contactor.


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## Cedge

Kvom
I'd suspect that little exercise got you breathing easier.....eh?

Steve


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## kvom

Steve, it actually got me all hot and bothered ;D

I was "this close" to pulling the trigger and heading up to Cabin Fever on Wednesday. But then my friend volunteered to come over on Saturday to finish the AC install, which saved me about $900 if I had to pay to have it done.

Maybe next year.


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## Cedge

> Steve, it actually got me all hot and bothered



Now there is a mental image I really could have done without....LOL

I can tell you for sure that you missed a good show. You really gotta make it to CF at least once to understand its impact.

Steve


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## kvom

The bricklayers finished my side steps today, and tomorrow I should get the "scuttle hole" doors. I found a local cabinet shop that was willing to make a pair with framing for $65 each.

Valerie spent the past two days painting the stairwell.

Once I get the AC serviced, we will be pretty close to calling in the inspectors.


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## kvom

Got the camera working today, so here's a shot of the current working environment:







Once the inspections are over, I'll move the shop refrigerator, the the lathe with be closer to the wall with the headstock end to the inside, in case I ever need to cut long stock or get a collet closer.

I measured the test bar I cut on the lathe with a 2" Mitutoyo mic at school, and there is only a 5 tenths difference between the two ends over 5". It's a lot more precise than I am.


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## ksouers

It's looking more like a shop 8)

Now you just need to get some oil splatters on the walls and chips on the floor ;D


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## kvom

Spent a couple of hours in the shop tonight ;D

Ruined another attempt at machining the valve. It seems 1/4" drill rod is not the best choice, as the inside seems pretty soft.  In any case, I've gotten enough practice that starting a new one goes pretty quick.  

I swapped the threading change gears on the Monarch before quitting for the night. It's an interesting process figuring out how to do it, but once you understand the design it's relatively simple. Mine was set up for coarse threads, meaning 24 TPI was the smallest I could go. I want to thread some 1/8" rod 5-40, but getting the threading die on straight is a challenge. So my plan is to partially cut the 5-40 threads with the lathe, and finish the thread with the die.


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## cfellows

kvom  said:
			
		

> Spent a couple of hours in the shop tonight ;D
> 
> Ruined another attempt at machining the valve. It seems 1/4" drill rod is not the best choice, as the inside seems pretty soft. In any case, I've gotten enough practice that starting a new one goes pretty quick.



I've made a number of valves out of 1/4" drill rod. I usually support the outer end with a live center. 

Another trick is to take the valve stem down to size, one section at a time. First take the outer 1/8" down to near the finish diameter. Then do the next 1/8", etc. The last pass, to take the whole stem down to finish, shouldn't remove more than a few thou.

Chuck


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## kvom

The past week we got the side entry steps built, and during the weekend we relaid pavers to extend the patio to the steps.






The space to the right is filled with lava rock.

Yesterday I finally cut holes to the exterior for the PVC condensation drainpipes for the AC units. Having done so the drywall people can come back in to patch up the various holes and dings. The AC guy is coming tomorrow to regulate the units, and when that and the drywall are ready we will be set for final inspections. ;D


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## Cedge

Kvom
I'm gonna miss this thread when they finally issue your C.O.  I'm worn out just from reading about all the hard work...LOL.

Steve


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## kvom

Can't have everything go smoothly it appears.

AC guy says there is a leak in the lineset for the upstairs unit. He checked the solder joints on both ends and they seem good, so it appears that there is a leak inside the walls. Might have to cut some holes to find it. We couldn't test it otherwise as it wasn't getting power. I discovered that the breaker in the panel was unsnapped after the guy left.

The downstairs unit is OK for leaks, but the air hander is displaying an error code. Might be a wiring issue. Hopefully the online manual will have more explicit info.


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## PhillyVa

Oh boy I hate that when that happens...Good luck, I hope you find it quickly and not do too much damage.

Regards

Philly


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## kvom

I found the error code problem - broken splice on the outdoor temperature sensor wire. Fixed.

Waiting for the AC guy to show.

Update*** 16:10

Guy showed up and found leak in 1 minute - compression joint on outside unit not tight ??? So no holes need to be knocked in the walls.  ;D I have the same temp. sensor error on this unit too, but should be easy to check the wire splices tomorrow.

It is too cold to charge the units, but they will be back on Friday, when it's supposed to warm up.


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## kvom

We had the final plumbing and electrical inspections today. Got a few minor fixes to do prior to final framing and CO:

Inspectors came by. There are a few minor things to fix, but they are letting them go until the final:

Electrical:

1) Needs a lockout on the breaker for the water heater, since it's not visible from the panel.
2) Need some dryer vent covers to shield the AC linesets at the point where they exit the siding.

Plumbing:

1) Caulk the sides of the shower doors
2) Need sidesplash for the sink cabinet
3) Need "bumpers" between the toilet tank and the wall, as there's an inch or so too much space.


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## kvom

Since I want to get the big Johnson bandsaw working pretty soon, I took the old blade off and brought it to school, where the instructor had told me I could make another from the school supply.

When he looked at the blade he said that it was still good, and was the type with variable pitch teeth. However, we still cut off two lengths (137" each) to make two additional blades. I had to learn to use the Doall bandsaw blade welder to join the ends. Fortunately there was a scrap blade in the trash bin that I could cut into pieces to practice on. It took a couple of tries to get a good practice weld. The "test" is to bend it and see if the blade snaps at the weld.

I'm not sure how long a bandsaw blade is supposed to last, but given the stuff we cut for modelmaking I'm guessing a long time. So with three blades I should be set.


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## steamer

kvom,

SPEED SPEED SPEED.......!

Don't over speed the blade for the material at hand and they will last a good while

Ignore this and the blade is gone in a blink!......ask me how I know this....

Dave


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## kvom

Today I'm picking up a breaker lockout at Grainger, which is the last thing I need to install before calling for my final framing inspection. Hopefully that will take place on Friday.


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## kvom

Passed the final framing inspection today. Offically complete as far as the county is concerned!  ;D ;D


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## ksouers

YIPEE!!!!

Congratulations! It's been a long time coming. I'll bet you're glad it's finally over.


Kevin


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## Maryak

Kvom,








Best Regards
Bob


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## kvom

It's only over as far as inspections go. Now I need to get set up the way I want. I moved the big compressor in this morning, and put the lathe where I want it (can now reach the RPC on/off switch from in front of the lathe). Next is to move in my tool boxes and arrange them, plus my old workbench. And then I need to build some more benches along the walls and hang a few cabinets.

Of course the girls want to start "decorating" the upstairs too.


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## kustomkb

That's going to be one nice shop!

Look forward to seeing the final pics.


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