# Mini-Lathe Handles



## Ken Bartlett (May 6, 2010)

I want to replace the stock handles on my Harbor Freight 7 x 10. Looking for any and all suggestions as to size, method of retention, materials and any advice. Also if anyone has done any drawing for them, or can post a link to any drawings would be much appreciated. I am leaning toward a heavier, more rigid feel to them than what is on it now. Thanks for the help.


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## ksouers (May 6, 2010)

Ken,
I thought about replacing mine but haven't yet. There isn't much room to work with on the C2 lathes and even with the stock handles I've run into interference issues. I didn't think I'd gain anything and probably lose a bit. So, I just kept the factory ones.

Just something to think about.


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## cfellows (May 6, 2010)

I replaced the plastic carriage feed handle with this aluminum handwheel I found on ebay for $12 (+$10.97 shipping). He was asking $18, but I offered $12 and he took it. Looks like he has a few left if you want to give it a go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Balcrank-4-Handwheel-Revolving-Handle-828084-3-8B-/310137251967?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48359ee87f 

It's aluminum and nicely finished. It's 4" OD, and there is some interference with the handle portion and the cross slide knob. I'm planning to extend the cross slide travel which means moving the cross slide handle out and that should eliminate the interference problem.







It came with a set screw which I used for retention. The shaft was 5/16" and the hole in the handwheel was 3/8" I used a piece of thick walled brass tubing as a bushing to make up the difference.

Will probably do something with the tailstock handl as well, but haven't yet.

Chuck


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## Troutsqueezer (May 6, 2010)

These are the only ones I've seen around. 

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Modifications/modifications.htm#handles

-T


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## Cedge (May 6, 2010)

When i began this hobby, I used small improvements to the machines to learn how things were done. I made mod after mod to them and each one added something new to their capabilities. New Handles and knobs were one such project. Not to highjack the thread, but here are a few photos of them.





http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/shop/handles-1.jpg





http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/shop/handles-2.jpg





http://cedesign.net/steam/images/misc/shop/handles-3.jpg

Steve

When you guys get ready to kill off that nasty cross slide backlash.... let me know....(grin)


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## Ken Bartlett (May 7, 2010)

Thank you all for the quick responses.

@cf - I like the size and look of the carriage handle you pictured. Very sturdy looking. I want to have a heavy, solid machine feel to it when I am done with my mods to the lathe. This is a great start. I will put up a bid for the handle. Thanks sir.

@cedge - Very good looking handles. Did you follow some sort of dimensional criteria for them or just by what felt right?

@trout - thanks for the link, it is another option for the cross and compound handles.

Note for all. When I do decide on what I will build for the cross slide and compound handles, I will draw them up in Autocad and post them up to help the next guy. Will update again soon.


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## Cedge (May 7, 2010)

Ken, 
Pretty much a "feels right" kind of thing. Back then i was still learning what the metal and machine wanted, rather than shooting for any sort of real accuracy.

Steve


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## Royal Viking (May 7, 2010)

Hi Steve,

I noticed you have digital readout on the tailstock and other feeds. How did you add them?


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## Cedge (May 7, 2010)

Roy.
The dial read outs were from Micromark.com but are also offered by Littlemachineshop.com. They fit the "true inch" versions of the machines and read down to the .0005. The tail sock read out is simply a Harbor Freight caliper that I cut down and bolted on. I fed it to the 3rd axis on an inexpensive display. 

The scales on the beds were part of a kit that was offered by a fellow in CA who has since gone out of business. You can still find similar kits on Ebay from time to time.

The little lathe is pretty much gathering dust these days, although it does get used as a second operation machine now and then.

Steve


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## TroyO (May 22, 2010)

Grizzly happens to have several decent looking handles on sale at the moment. I picked up 3 of the 4" chrome ones for my X2 (In progress) and with some tweaking the fit fine. You may be able to do something similar on the mini lathe... price is certainly right! (Chrome one is $4.50)

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/category.aspx?key=240


Here's one that's had a bronze bushing smacked in and bored to 10MM, then the back machined to fit the index donut on the mini mill.


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## Ken Bartlett (May 23, 2010)

Thanks for the update. I will definitely look into those handles for the lathe, and for my X2 as well. What improvements to you see or feel with them on the mill?


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## TroyO (May 24, 2010)

It's hard to say as... ermm... ummm... I've never used the mill! (Or any mill for that matter) LOL, I'm still knee deep in mods and setup.... I know, sounds wacky but I figured if I put it off I'd just "live with" stuff I didn't like.

Done a lot.. brass gibs, straigtened and hand scrapped the ways, the hand wheels, air spring, column fill, split nut mod... and haven't even used it yet, LOL.

I do have the table done... smooth as silk and very "concentric" and solid feeling. I don't have a direct comparison though as I never even installed the stock ones. The little bit of twiddling I did with the X out of the box it feels a lot better... but the gibs and ways probably had the most to do with that.


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## Ken Bartlett (May 24, 2010)

Hand scrapped ways...wow your mill must traverse x and y like silk. Like others here, it seems more time goes into modify our machines and making tools than actually making engines. But hey, that is what makes this such a great hobby.


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## kendo (May 25, 2010)

Hi Ken
       Have you seen this site, it may give you some ideas.

http://www.bedair.org/9x20handle.html

       Hope it helps, there is even a drawing.





                           Kendo


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## kcmillin (May 25, 2010)

I had to do an emergency fix on the tailstock handle about 2 years ago. It was supposed to be a temporary fix, but it still works.

Here it is, its kinda crude, made out of viny board we use in siding. works like a champ. It dont have to look good to work good.






Kel


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## TroyO (May 25, 2010)

Ken Bartlett  said:
			
		

> Hand scrapped ways...wow your mill must traverse x and y like silk.



Heh... well, "Hand scraped" may have been overstating it somewhat... hand gouged by a hack (Myself) until I could get X and Y close enough to lap? Then I went back over them and touched them for oil retention... pretty lo-tech an inexperienced but the other option was to buy a new table, it came looking like it was made by Pringles. (Potato chip) It does move nice now, even with the gibs cracked down pretty tight. I get .0004 across the table travel in X so I lucked out and got fairly straight too.

I also don't want to sound like I'm dissing the handwheels... I think they in and of themselves add more heft and precision feel to the mill. How much real precision it added I don't know, but they feel better, so I like them better. "Spinnability" is up too.. I just don't know what the stock ones would have felt like to compare. (I would toss them on for a test but I don't think the keys would go back on/out easy.. I used set screws which probably marred the pocket.) 

I also think the machined ends with the bore and face at exact 90^ helped to adjust free play out of the Y (No bearing)... very little play between the mount and wheel now and still moves easily.


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## Ken Bartlett (May 25, 2010)

Thanks Troy. I am going to go ahead with making my own handles, if for anything to get the experience of it, and the satisfaction of modding my mill with parts I made myself. Thanks again.


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