# Rupnow Double Horizontal



## toolznthings (Apr 18, 2015)

At the last minute I thought I would try and post my build of Brian Rupnow's 
Double Horizontal Engine. I did the cylinder block first from mild steel and there will be a picture of it later since I started taking pictures after it was complete.
The base plate was next and I made it a little larger than the plans. Holes for the bearing towers were done first with dowel pin holes. Holes were added to fixture for milling where they will be hidden on final assembly.




A couple of rough passes and a finish cut.




The finished base removed from the setup plate. The single large mounting hole was my part zero location.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 18, 2015)

Toolznthings--I love it already!!! That is one of my greatest engines. I will follow your build with great interest.---Bazmak has built this engine with a few small modifications recently, but I don't know if he ever got his to run or not.---Brian


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## Scott_M (Apr 18, 2015)

Hi Brian
I will be following along.
Since I know you , I feel I can tease you. 
Newspaper in your chip trays and towels over the z and y axis bellows ? Are we afraid we might get our mill dirty ? 

Scott


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## toolznthings (Apr 18, 2015)

Hi Scott, I can't convince my wife to clean the mill so I prepare for the worst !
Thanks for the harassment !!!

Next on the build was the crank shaft assembly. I went to a 5/16" size shaft and turned the ends to be silver soldered to .250 with the correct distance between shoulders to establish the crank throw assembly spacing. The cranks throws were milled on a fixture using shoulder screws for location. The holes were spaced and drilled and reamed .250 on the manual mill leaving mill stock.( No picture of the milling. )




This is the soldering fixture for the throws, maintains width / parallel. 




Next step was a larger fixture to align the throws to the remaining shafts doing one side at a time and positioning a stop block to get the 90 degree throw.



Another view......



Pictures of the finished crankshaft ........







Thanks all for the views ! More to come.


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## bazmak (Apr 18, 2015)

Good job and a great engine to build.Plan to borrow a compressor to get mine running alongside the IO rotary.No lathe at the moment.Patience is a vertue
Brian .Regards barry


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 19, 2015)

Your crankshaft looks better than my original did-------


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## bazmak (Apr 19, 2015)

And better than my first attempt


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## toolznthings (Apr 19, 2015)

Thanks for the compliments !
I'll be posting more tomorrow.  The build is ahead of the photos.


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## toolznthings (Apr 20, 2015)

The bearing stands are the next parts to be done. The two outboard supports will be made from aluminum and will use a miniature ball bearing. ( McMaster # 57155K325 ) The center support will be brass with a removable bearing cap and bored to fit the center throw of the crank shaft.
I machined the thickness of all the blanks to .375 and stood them vertical in the mill vise and face milled the bottoms square to the sides. The outside aluminum stands were bored for the bearings. The center stand was bored with the bearing cap in place. Rough drilling here to get ready for boring.




The blanks are now ready to have the outside contour done on the CNC mill.
Part zero was the bearing bores and the finished bottoms were indicated in parallel to the x-axis using a piece of aluminum for a fixture. I keep several plates for doing this kind of fixture and add holes as needed. Re-face until they can't be used any longer.




After all stands were milled I added the tapped holes and dowel pin holes to the bottoms of all three stands working from the finished bores.

A trial assembly with the crank shaft. The small ball bearings are visible in the picture. I choose the one with the outer flange.


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## toolznthings (Apr 21, 2015)

The connecting rods will be made from 6061-T6 aluminum bar stock. The wrist pin hole will be bushed with 660 bronze bushings and the crank end will have 660 bronze split bushings. I started with wider stock in the mill vise and CNC milled the .900 width about 1 " deep.










A fixture was made to support the first milled profile with a pocket to align the .900 width and the next contour was milled.













The next step was to START ALL OVER ! :wall: I realized later that evening that the hole for the socket head screw holding the part on the fixture was in the wrong place in the rod. Obvious as seen laying on the print. Practice makes perfect .
The fixture with the correct hole position.





On to the manual mill to finish the rod end caps and and bores for the bearings. You can't see the parallel under the rod in this operation.





The finished rods with a trial assembly on the crank.


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## Scott_M (Apr 21, 2015)

Those pesky prints! 

I think the second set are prettier anyway.

Scott


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## toolznthings (Apr 22, 2015)

Hi Scott, It's the pesky print reader !

The piston assembly is next on the build. The piston head will be 660 bronze with a minimal bore fitting o-ring and the rod end will be cross drilled for a 1/16"
dowel pin.
Started by single point threading the piston end of the rod.





I made the piston next and left stock on the o.d. and length and used thread locker and assembled to the piston rod.
Back to the lathe to turn the final diameter concentric to the piston rod and finish face the length. Not pictured in this view I cut the o-ring groove to get a very light fit in the cylinder block.





To insure the correct overall piston length and a set up to drill the cross hole in the piston rod end I made a simple fixture.









The installed o-ring is in this picture. Not shown is the 1/16 cross drill and reamed hole. ( visible in future pictures. ) The purpose of this pinning is to be able to disassemble the the piston rod with out removing the piston itself and losing concentricity.

Machining the cylinder head and cross head guide was the next step. Machined from 360 brass round bar stock. The .500 x .750 end was machined first and held in a collet to finish the diameter that goes in the cylinder head and to bore the piston rod thru hole.






I made a boring bar from a long length 1/4" end mill.





A set up was made at the manual mill to machine the outside dimensions and drill the mounting holes. Working off the bored thru hole.









The finished parts with the cylinder head.


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## bazmak (Apr 22, 2015)

Proffessional engineering at its best.I have never seen cleaner tooling or
 work area and the parts looks first class.They put mine to shame
Again congratulations


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## toolznthings (Apr 22, 2015)

bazmak said:


> Proffessional engineering at its best.I have never seen cleaner tooling or
> work area and the parts looks first class.They put mine to shame
> Again congratulations



Thanks much !! Your engine will be good also !!! You inspired me to get the plans and do this build as I have followed your build.


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## Scott_M (Apr 22, 2015)

Hi Brian
Parts look great!
I really like that little plate mounted 3-jaw. I have a 6" 3 jaw that I bolt to the mill table. But that little one "in the vise" would cover a lot of jobs and would be 10x faster to setup. I like it. ( I think I know my next project )

Scott


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## toolznthings (Apr 23, 2015)

Hi Scott,

The chuck is offset on the plate with a through hole so in can be clamped to the edge of the table for long parts.


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## Scott_M (Apr 23, 2015)

toolznthings said:


> Hi Scott,
> 
> The chuck is offset on the plate with a through hole so in can be clamped to the edge of the table for long parts.


 
Great idea !  Thanks for sharing.

Scott


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 23, 2015)

I wonder how many people around the world have built this engine? I checked on the site that hosts my plans, and I see that the plans for this engine have been downloaded 256 times since they were posted.----Brian Rupnow


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## toolznthings (Apr 23, 2015)

Next parts made are for the valve mechanism. The valves are turned from 660 bronze and the large end eccentric and rod end are machined from 360 brass.
The connecting rod was made from 12L14 and single point threaded 10-32 threads on each end.
The eccentric end stock was machined to thickness and the .750 hole was bored to size. There was stock left all around for the CNC operation. Using my fixture plate again I made a clamping bushing to fit the .750 bore and after clamping to the fixture I was able to indicate the bushing o.d. for part zero.





The finish contour concentric to the bore.






Next operation at the manual mill was to drill and tap the 10-32 threads for the rod.





I turned the valves in the lathe and finished the the .250 x .312 end and the .125 cross hole at the manual mill.

The beginning of the lathe operation.




Back to the CNC to mill the contours on all the rod ends.





Band sawed apart and finish milled the thickness and milled the slots and drill and reamed the .125 holes.









All the ends completed.





The finished eccentric rod assembly.




Back at the lathe I  turned the eccentric hubs and added the set screw holes back at the mill.


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## toolznthings (Apr 24, 2015)

Machining of the flywheels at the lathe. Machined from 12L14 bar stock.
After finishing one side of the flywheel and the o.d. by holding in the three jaw chuck it was sawed off leaving stock for the opposite side. Aluminum soft jaws were mounted on the lathe chuck and the second side and thru bore were finished. Adjust-Tru chuck insured concentricity with the previous turned o.d.
Turned soft jaws are never a guarantee that the chucked part is running dead true. I always check indicate to be sure. 

Facing to thickness in this photo.




Profile finished and boring for the crankshaft.




Next operation at the CNC mill was to machine a set of aluminum soft jaws to hold the turned flywheel in the vise. Indicating the bore for part zero.
I then proceeded to pocket mill the areas between the spokes. The first tool drilled a 1/2" hole for the plunge cut to start the milling operations. After the rough cut  I made a finish pass to complete the operation.













The set screw hole was added at the manual mill and completed the flywheels.


The spacer that goes under the cylinder block was made from aluminum and was squared up at the manual mill and the mounting holes were drilled thru. I decided to add some decoration to the sides of the the block at the CNC mill.
Using an engraving bit I did all four sides. A later photo will show the results.


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## toolznthings (Apr 25, 2015)

This is what I came up with for the air supply manifold. I was trying to find a common air hook for this engine and three others I have built. Every engine ended up with some kind of self made hose barb that I really did not like. I was with my wife in a local craft store and saw hoses for air brush guns and decided that would work. I made some test turnings to figure out the thread fit and seat for the hose end. The thread was .375/.370 o.d. x 28 TPI and a drilled hole .234 diameter back 1/4" and a thru hole and length to suit.





I made a setup with a small regulator and valve on a wood block with the air brush hose.





Drawing of the manifold and manifold bolt/fitting to attach the manifold to the cylinder block.





Made from 360 brass the contour of the manifold was cut at the CNC mill.
The final thickness was face milled at the manual mill and the holes for the air channels were drill. Each hole was counter bored .250 x .062 deep for brass plugs that were silver solder to close off the channels. The air hose adapter was made and silver soldered in place.

At the CNC mill....

















At the lathe the manifold bolts were turned and threaded to fit the cylinder block.
The hex was then milled with an indexer and a collet.









After doing all the necessary finish work on all the parts final assembly is next.





The " wrist " pins were made from 12L14 .125 diameter ground stock and grooved for 1/8" e-clips. Some of the parts not pictured before can be seen in this layout. Brass pads were turned to go under all the set screws so as not to mark the crankshaft and allow for easy adjustment and disassembly of the flywheels and eccentrics.


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## Scott_M (Apr 25, 2015)

Looking real good Brian !

How about a close up of the engraving on the block spacer ?

Scott


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## toolznthings (Apr 25, 2015)

Here you go.....
Typical all sides.


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## bazmak (Apr 25, 2015)

Hi i made a similar manifold block from round brass.Also going thru the same thought processes for a common connection for air supply for 4 different model
No compressor yet so its all on hold.Hoping to borrow one from a neirbor for trials.Keep posting,i am following your workmanship with envy.But i am still of the old school.Just make it as best you can,but lack the patience for lots of 
filing and emery.I am afraid i did all that early in my career so now the priority is to get things working.Congratulations on your exhibition standard of workmanship
Regards barry


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## toolznthings (Apr 25, 2015)

Thanks again, Barry ! 
The finish work is always the most tedious since I want to see the end results, too.
Keeping it fun is the most important part of making things. Don't want it to become a job.

Brian


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## toolznthings (Apr 26, 2015)

Finished the assembly and mounting on a wood base with a diamond drag engraved tag.

Brian, I engraved your name in gold, well, just brass which costs about the same! Credit to Brian Rupnow for the design and drawings.  THANKS !!!

The little oil cup ( center bearing stand ) was a left over from 30+ years ago when my wife and I made them for Cole's Power Models. An experience not forgotten. 


















Here it is running and thanks for all the views and comments !

https://youtu.be/kuS3So7rg-Y


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## Scott_M (Apr 26, 2015)

Beautiful ! Sounds good.
Nicely done. Your finish work is just as impressive as your machine work.

Scott


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## toolznthings (Apr 26, 2015)

Thanks Scott ! Coming from you that means a lot !

Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 26, 2015)

Marvelous job, very well done. Congratulations!!!  Brian Rupnow


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## toolznthings (Apr 26, 2015)

Hi Brian,

It runs great and I really like that it is self starting. My favorite build so far.

Brian


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## bazmak (Apr 26, 2015)

Absolutely beautiful,and exhibition standard.Will now push on the compressor
front and try get mine running.If i have any problems i will ask
Regards Barry


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## toolznthings (Apr 26, 2015)

Hi Barry,

Thanks and would be glad to help if I can. Get the eccentrics set was not a problem with the brass pads under the set screws.

Brian


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