# 1/3 Scale LS1



## bhusted (Jul 10, 2019)

First I want to say what a fantastic site this has been.  I've learned a lot from just looking through other's builds.  I've got a project that I started the design work for months ago, but just now started the machining.  Here is my CAD model.  While this engine is supposed to be a 1/3 scale LS1, I couldn't exactly just scale all of the dimensions, so I had to draw it all myself.  Thanks to stevehuckss396 for helping me sort out the camshaft geometry.















My goal is to make all of the parts, but this was not designed to be a running engine.  I'm not planning to do lubrication, compression, fuel, or ignition.  Three is a small DC gear motor that mounts where the starter should be on the LS1 so that I can "run" it by giving it 12v and watching all of the parts move.  

I am a student at a local technical college in the machining program.  This summer is my last quarter and I wanted to learn more about multi-axis CNC machine work.  Much of this engine project will be completed on large CNC machines that aren't necessarily for home use.  Sorry if that turns anyone off to this project.


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## bhusted (Jul 10, 2019)

I've made a start on the machining of the parts over the last two days.  I began with the rocker arms.  I know, most people would probably start with a more critical component, block, crank, etc.  Since the block and other parts will be machined using a 4th axis, I wanted to start small learn how to program the 4th axis before jumping in on more complex parts.  This started out as 1/2" aluminum bar stock and here it is after completing the first operation.  Off the mill, I used the saw to cut it off the rest of the way before starting on Op2.










For the second operation on the rocker arms, I made some quick soft jaws to hold it in the vise.  Here it is after the final contouring.


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## bhusted (Jul 10, 2019)

Now that I had gotten a start with using the 4th axis, I decided to tackle the connecting rod caps.  These were made using 3/4" aluminum bar stock.  This time I managed to nearly part it off on the mill, leaving just a thin skin of aluminum that I could break off and clean up and buff off.  While I'm happy with the final result, I spent most of the day fighting chatter.  Hopefully I can finish the rest tomorrow now that I have a recipe that seems to work.


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## bhusted (Jul 11, 2019)

I made more chips today.  All of the connecting rod caps are finished.  










With any luck, work on the block will begin Monday.  LOTS of programming to do this weekend...


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## kuhncw (Jul 11, 2019)

Nice work.  That's an interesting and challenging project.  Please keep us up to date on your progress.

Chuck


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## bhusted (Jul 13, 2019)

I spent most of the day yesterday getting the CAM work done for the engine block.  Estimated machining time at 100% rapids is only 4 hours 46 minutes...  If I'm lucky on Monday I'll get all of the tooling setup and the dry run finished.  






Since I'll be making the crankshaft on a manual lathe I wanted to have a physical model of the crankshaft for verification when changing setups.  I'd really hate for Mr. Bozo to come and pay me a visit on the last setup.  With some scraps of 1/4" plywood and some dowel stock I mocked up the crankshaft.  It's not 100% dimensionally accurate, but the necessary geometry is correct.  






What materials do people prefer to use for model engine crankshafts?  As I said before, this is not intended as a running model, so forces will be much lower.  I'm looking for something that will machine well, but perhaps not develop surface rust.  My instructor suggested using stainless.  I've seen a couple of builds here that suggest using stressproof.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 13, 2019)

1144 is my go to crankshaft material. It machines real nice and won't move around on you as much as other metals. Nothing worse than machining a 20 hour part and finding .007 runout when complete.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 13, 2019)

Why do you CNC guy's start with round stock. If you started with a piece of square in a 4 jaw chuck wouldn't you reduce the amount of material to be removed by half? Wouldn't that reduce the machining time by a bunch?

Not being a D!&K, I'm truely curious.


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## bhusted (Jul 13, 2019)

It's true that square stock would require less material removal, but the small 4th axis uses a 5C collet chuck and the bigger one uses a 3 jaw.  Either way, holding square stock would be challenging.


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## Cogsy (Jul 14, 2019)

5C collets for square stock are readily available. I have a few different sizes of them, and a few hex sizes as well.


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## bhusted (Jul 14, 2019)

I've never seen square 5C collets before.  The school I'm at does have a few hex ones, but that wouldn't have helped me.  

Another thing I thought of is that if I had started with square stock for the rockers or rod caps, I'd also have to dial in the A-axis position for the program.  I'm not a machinist, just a student/hobbiest learning as I go.


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## Ironmanaz (Jul 14, 2019)

CNC not a turn off----I'm installing an old Matsuura  HMC with 11 pallets & 42 tool pods (1 degree 4th)....  Yes, for models!


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## ozzie46 (Jul 15, 2019)

do they make 5C collets that will hold 3 in x 3 in material?
Ron


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## Cogsy (Jul 15, 2019)

That's a bit big for 5C collets. I think the upper limit is something like 1-1/4" or something like that.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 15, 2019)

I know the piece is way too big for a collet. I was thinking 4 jaw chuck.  Not a big deal to use around, I was just curious.
Let the build continue!


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## bhusted (Jul 15, 2019)

Progress was made today, though not as much as I would have liked.  I actually looked and the school doesn't have a 4 jaw that fits the 4th axis.  It's not the same spindle mount as the other D1 chucks they have.  After my experience today I wish I had square stock big enough and a 4 jaw to hold it.  First I setup all 16 tools required for the block operations.  Then I cut the biggest piece of metal that I've ever worked with.  That's a 6" ruler for scale...






Since I had to flip the jaws around, the stock was only held by ~1/2" of the jaw.  They don't have a tailstock for the 4th axis on this machine, so I had to get creative.  There is a tombstone that can be mounted instead of the chuck that has a tail support with a plastic bushing.  I stole the support and decided to turn a pin on the end of my stock to fit the bushing.






Then it was a matter of getting things dialed in on the machine to get rid of the run-out.  I was pretty proud of myself until I realized that on the bottom roughing operations, the cutter and the tail support were going to share the same space...






Barring allowing the tool and the tail support to become intimately acquainted, I've come up with a couple of workable solutions.
a)  Rework the toolpaths so that I avoid the collision.
b)  Remove the plastic bushing and turn a dead-center that fits in the support housing.
c)  Turn the face back farther so that the pin is longer and don't have it all of the way into the tail support.


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## bhusted (Jul 16, 2019)

Progress has been made.  The first thing I'll need to do tomorrow morning when I start up the machine is to clean it out with a shovel.  Boy did we make some chips today.  As for solving the problem I was having, I went with a little bit of solution A mixed with the proper amount of C.  I did a dry run and got the clearance I needed.  We hit the green button and did some roughing.














Spot drilling a bunch of holes before getting out the other drills.  I did make a mistake here and got my drilling sequence out of order.  I was drilling holes in the crankcase to make it easier to get the endmill down there for clearing out the pockets.  I forgot and drilled one of the holes for the cylinder bores first and lost my flat to start the drill on for the crankcase.  Not a big deal, just a little more time spent on that pocket helixing downward.










This is where I had to quit for the day.  Tomorrow I'll be drilling and tapping the rest of the holes on the block, boring out the cylinders, and finishing the crankcase.  I tried to take some video of the cutting action today, but between the flood coolant and focusing on the running the machine, I didn't have much time.  I got a couple of clips on my phone that I'll share if it looks like you can see anything.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 16, 2019)

good stuff! looking forward to more.


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## kuhncw (Jul 16, 2019)

Nice work!


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## retailer (Jul 17, 2019)

You are making good progress, looks like good stuff I'll be watching this post - as it is not intended to be a runner, have to though about making it a partial cutaway so the crank and a piston can be seen in motion, it seems like a shame to hide all of the CNC machining inside the engine where it can't be seen.


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## bobden72 (Jul 17, 2019)

Nice job and good thinking on how to hold it.  Looking forward to the next instalment.


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## bhusted (Jul 17, 2019)

Thanks guys.  As for making it a cutaway, I did consider this, but decided against because I wanted it to look complete.  The engine will be held onto the stand by 4 magnets on the bottom so that it can be picked up and watch the crank move.  I have considered making the heads from clear polycarbonate and polishing it so that you can see through.  I don't know yet.  Hopefully I can finish the block today.


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## bhusted (Jul 18, 2019)

Update time.  I had hoped to be finished with the block by now, but ran into some issues.  To start, I had to shovel out all of the chips since they had blocked the coolant drains.  I wish I had weighed the stock before cutting so that I could calculate the weight of the chips.  This 5 gallon bucket was empty when I started...







Back to machining, I tapped a bunch of 8-36 holes. roughed out the cylinder bores, cut the lifter pockets, and roughed out the crankcase.










This is where I start to notice things are not right.  The spot drill is deeper on some holes than others and offset in places.  Since I was this far in, I figured I would run the finishing operations and just see how it turns out.  Only when I pulled it out did I discover what had happened.  The stock slipped in the chuck, so some features were at odd angles.  Needless to say I was not happy.


















After talking things over with my instructor, he wants me to try again.  The program has been proven, so no babysitting the machine required.  To try and prevent the slippage issue I've implemented a couple of changes.  The first is when I setup the stock, I machined 3 flats on the OD where the chuck jaws will grab.  Second, I used a cheater bar on the chuck key to really tighten it.  Third, I put in a couple of stops so that I can inspect the part at strategic parts of the program.  After the major roughing was done I used a test indicator to ensure that each 90 degree rotation of the A-axis still aligned with the spindle.  So far so good.  I'll be back at it on Monday, but right now it looks like it did at the end of day on Tuesday.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 18, 2019)

cool stuff. keep the updates coming.


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## kuhncw (Jul 19, 2019)

Very nice work.  With the changes you are making to your setup, the second run should go well. 

Things slip and it can get exciting.  It's happened to all of us.  

Chuck


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## bhusted (Jul 24, 2019)

It's been a few days, but I have progress to report.  Two blocks are completed.  I decided to go ahead with the final operations on the flawed block and the "good" one.  It turned out to be really helpful to have a test mule for the other operations so that if anything went wrong, I could fix the problems before running the good one.  Anyway, I used the bandsaw to separate the block from the parent stock and then started the machining on both ends.  














Here are the finished pictures.  Sorry no glamor shots, just a couple of cell phone pictures for now.














Finally, I've been working on the camshaft.  I got one made today using the 4th axis.  While I'm happy with the result, milling it this way with an endmill leaves a nasty bur that I'll have to clean up manually.  Hopefully more on this tomorrow.


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## retailer (Jul 24, 2019)

Your block looks great well done ! - I don't have CNC so I can't compare but you make it look so easy compared to manual machining. The colour of the metal used for the cam looks to be aluminium is that correct ?


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## Foketry (Jul 24, 2019)

bhusted said:


> It's been a few days, but I have progress to report.  Two blocks are completed.  I decided to go ahead with the final operations on the flawed block and the "good" one.  It turned out to be really helpful to have a test mule for the other operations so that if anything went wrong, I could fix the problems before running the good one.  Anyway, I used the bandsaw to separate the block from the parent stock and then started the machining on both ends.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hi Bhusted
What program do you use to create  Gcode for  camshaft?


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## Foketry (Jul 24, 2019)

Hi Bhustet
What program do you use to create  Gcode for  camshaft whit the 4th axis ?

congratulations for your great work


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## bhusted (Jul 24, 2019)

When the program and tooling and workholding and setup are right, the CNC can look easy, but I've learned that all of those are far from being easy.  Just because it works in the computer simulation doesn't necessarily mean that's what it will spit out.  This was certainly designed with CNC work in mind.

The camshaft right now is aluminum.  I'm debating what material to go with, but wanted to do a test run of the setup and the code today.  Since this is just a model, the aluminum camshaft will be more than adequate, but kind of feels like cheating.  I don't want to just use steel because it will develop rust over time.  Maybe I stick with the aluminum one, maybe 303SS?

All of the design and programming for this project is done in Fusion360.


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## bhusted (Jul 25, 2019)

I was planning on spending this morning deburring my practice camshaft and the engine block, but decided that I'd rather make more parts.  I got all of the main bearings done.










The mains didn't take long, so I worked on the connecting rods.  I was really happy with how it was coming out until I looked at the fit of the cap...













Somehow my stop must have moved, so the tapped holes do not align with the bearing cap.  The issue is obviously with the rod and not with the cap, so I'll try again on Monday.  Then I'll need to cut some soft jaws for machining the other side of the connecting rod.


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## bhusted (Jul 29, 2019)

The connecting rods are nearing completion.  I did some testing this morning to make sure that I didn't get the same offset issue I had previously and things were looking good.  










There is still a little work to do on the rods before they are completely done, but we're getting closer.  With the longish cycle time (~9 minutes/side) for the second and third operations on the rods, I occupied my time deburring the camshaft and engine block.


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## kuhncw (Jul 29, 2019)

Very nice looking rods!


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 29, 2019)

doing a fine job. keep the pictures coming.


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## bhusted (Jul 30, 2019)

Thanks guys.  Today was productive, but not a lot to show.  I started by finishing up the connecting rods.  There were just a couple more to run for the third operation from yesterday.  The hole where the rod connects to the crank was just interpolated with an endmill and still needed to be reamed to final size.  I modified my soft jaws and ran the final operation.  Everything turned out great, so the rods are officially finished.






Other work that needed to get done was to finish the back side of the camshaft.  For now I'm sticking with the aluminum one.  It's been deburred and the bearing journals are finished.  I'll probably do some polishing on it later.






Since I had finished the main caps, I also needed to ream the mains to size with everything torqued down.  If the model was any bigger I wouldn't have been able to get this done.  I did it on the Bridgeport and had to start with the knee all of the way down and feed with the knee and the quill because there wasn't enough travel in the quill. 

With my remaining time today I broke down and cleaned up all of the mill tooling and started setting up the lathe for making pistons.  Hopefully tomorrow I have at least one piston done.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 30, 2019)

awesome to see this project coming to life.


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## e.picler (Jul 30, 2019)

Hi Bhusted!
Very nice work, congratulations! You should think about making this wonderful work to run.
Edi


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## bhusted (Jul 31, 2019)

Originally I had planned to make the pistons from Delrin so that they would be self lubricating in the cylinder bores.  As fate would have it, my local plastic supplier was out of stock yesterday and I really wanted to make some more progress today.  I decided to just go ahead with running the pistons in aluminum.  I may need to put a drop of oil down the cylinders once in a while, but oh well. 

I finished getting the lathe setup and pressed go.  14 minutes later, this guy pops out.  For now there is just a gauge pin slid in for the wrist pin, since I wasn't ready to press them in.










If only it were that easy...  Setting up the typical turning, facing and parting tools is easy, but this lathe is equipped with "live" tools on the turret as well, which I had a heck of a time getting dialed in.  In the end I still have to ream the wrist pin hole by hand because I couldn't get the tool holder aligned with the x-axis.  I still have four more pistons to run in the morning and I'll probably spend the cycle time deburring and lapping the tops of the pistons where the parting tool leaves a bit of a nub.


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## johnmcc69 (Jul 31, 2019)

Great stuff Bhusted! Keep at it, parts are looking great!

 John


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## deeferdog (Aug 1, 2019)

I look at your work and I feel that I'm stuck in the stone age. Awesome.


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## bhusted (Aug 1, 2019)

Another short day in the shop, but productive none the less.  I finished running the last few pistons and while I was waiting I cleaned up the tops of the pistons.  For now they are just sanded with 400 grit sandpaper.  I'll either run them on the buffing wheel to polish them or make some sort of fixture to face them off in the lathe.  Since I had a couple of spare connecting rods, I ran a couple of spare pistons.  







The next parts to make at the lathe are the sprockets for the timing chain.  I'm using #25 chain, but wanted to try my hand at making the sprockets.  It took a couple of tries, but I got one that's good.  The sprocket for the camshaft should be pretty easy on Monday because it's so similar to the crank one.


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## kuhncw (Aug 1, 2019)

Looking good.  I believe you've got this CNC work figured out.


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## bhusted (Aug 1, 2019)

kuhncw said:


> Looking good.  I believe you've got this CNC work figured out.



I wouldn't say that I've figured it out as much as I can fake my way through it.  Thanks though.  

I did try and take a video today of the lathe running the pistons.  It was a last minute idea and the phone ziptied to a mag base wasn't the best.  I sped it up 8 times, and while I tried to run without coolant so that you can see what's happening, I had to pulse it on a few times to clear the chips from the center pocket.


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## bhusted (Aug 5, 2019)

Today I finished got the cam sprocket finished.  I was glad to have that one done in one try.  I just need to broach the keyway for the camshaft and take a couple of links out of the chain.










I decided that the sandpaper finish on the tops of the pistons had to go, so I cobbled together a stop to fit inside the collet and faced off each piston.  





The lifters were next.  Because I was feeling fancy, these got made from brass.





I'm working on wrapping my head around the 4th axis operations for machining the heads and needed a break, so I assembled more of the block.  The starter is mounted and the magnets for the engine stand are bolted on.





Tomorrow I'll hopefully get the valves done and then get the mill tooled up for the cylinder heads.  I'm still waiting on material for the crankshaft to arrive...


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## bhusted (Aug 6, 2019)

Progress!  All of the valves are completed, plus some spares.  These are 17-4 stainless and my first time single point threading on the CNC lathe.  I had a little challenge of not getting a taper with such a long, thin part.  The first try had about .0015 taper over the length of the stem.  No tailstock, so the solution was to turn it in chunks.  The taper is gone, but there are some very faint lines that you can see in the picture.  Nothing that you can feel and the diameter is consistent to .0005.  You can also see my crude way of setting the valve lash with the end of the stem being threaded.  The retainer will simply thread on.










After cleaning up the mess of razor wire in the lathe from the valves, I got to work setting up the mill for the heads.  While the machining time on the heads may be shorter than the block, there are more tools required.  The plan at the moment is to secure the block to the 4th axis tombstone with a dovetail vise to machine 5 sides and then one separate operation for the back side.  






Stock is cut and ready to go.  I know that I only need 2, but I'll probably screw one up.





Tomorrow I hope to get everything dialed in and start making more chips.  My 1144 came today and is patiently waiting to be turned into a crankshaft.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 6, 2019)

awesome progress grasshopper.  Those "faint marks" are typically taken care of with a small scotch brite pad. Lightly chuck the head of the valve in the 3 jaw so the stem spins half way straight and pinch the stem with the scotch brite between your fingers and slide it slowly from the head to the thread. Should have a real nice brush finish for 10 seconds of effort.

If the grasshopper comment went over your head, ask your teacher. He might be old enough to remember Kung fu.


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## johnmcc69 (Aug 6, 2019)

As Steve pointed out..Fantastic work "Grasshopper" . (Old enough to know the reference....)

 You should give a shout out to your school, pretty cool that they let you take on this project.

 John


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## bhusted (Aug 7, 2019)

I guess I don't have enough kung fu to get the grasshopper thing.  My instructor is actually a little younger than me.  I'll give that a try for blending the tool marks on the valves.  

Today did not go as planned.  I got the tombstone mounted on the 4th axis and dialed in (~2hrs), but had to stop there.  Another student is also doing 4th axis work requiring the foot stock and apparently we only have one.  My options were to make another foot stock, or to work on another part while I waited.  While I considered option 1, I went with option 2.  The stock for the crankshaft came in yesterday, so off I went to crankshaft land.

The stock I got for the crank is 1144 stressproof and it cuts great.  I started by facing the saw cut ends of my blank and poking a center hole in each.  The center hole gives me a point to dial in on the mill since the OD of the bar was too lumpy to get an accurate center from.  Since I'll be turning between centers, any minor offset end to end from the 3 jaw will be eliminated.






Then it was off to the mill to poke some more holes in it.  Before I flipped it end for end, I milled a flat on one side of the bar.  This will serve two purposes, allowing me to align the flat with the vise jaw and giving the lathe dog something better to clamp onto.









I laid out some lines for where each of the bearings are and then the crank throws.  These are mostly just witness lines to try and keep me from screwing it up.  Each of the turned areas here will be a main bearing. 









Now for some questions:

What sort of tools to people like to use for this kind of turning?  As you can see above, I've just been experimenting with a 1/8" wide HSS parting blade.  I'm a little worried about using the carbide parting tool for the interrupted cut when turning off center.

Is there a suggested order of operations for maintaining rigidity?  

I'm a little worried about keeping track of the tool position in the z-axis.  The lathe doesn't have a DRO, so I usually just use a magnet backed indicator on the ways.  This is limited to 1" of travel and my finished crankshaft is just over 6.1" long.  Is there a better way to go about this rather than inching my way along with the indicator? 
Thanks for the encouragement and help.  Just a couple of weeks of class time left to get this done.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 7, 2019)

Give this a read. Not the same crankshaft but the basics still apply.

https://www.homemodelenginemachinis...-cylinder-crankshaft-machining-tutorial.5011/


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## retailer (Aug 7, 2019)

Your work so far looks impressive, I may be showing my ignorance about cnc machining here but is there any reason that you can't machine the crank shaft in the cnc mill or even rough it out in the mill and then take the final few thou off in the lathe ? From what I have seen in this forum many people remove as much metal as possible in the mill and then finish off in the lathe.


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## bhusted (Aug 8, 2019)

Steve, thanks for the link.  I had a look though it and while it didn't necessarily address everything I wanted, it gave me the confidence to just give it a try.  

The reason for doing this all on the manual lathe is that my instructor required that one major part of the project be done manually.  While I could have roughed out some on the mill, I opted to just go straight for the lathe after I got the centers drilled.  It was actually quite satisfying doing this manually.

I started the morning by wiping out all of the layout I had done yesterday.  Not that any of this was wrong, but in the order of operations, I wanted to turn the OD of the stock down first.  The stock was 2.000", but the biggest diameter on the part is 1.750".  This was fun.  






No, I did not spill Dye-Chem on the chips.  I blued the stock this time and redid all of my layout.  Let the cutting begin! I decided to use the carbide insert parting tool because I had better luck keeping the end of the tool square to the work.  It cut well and didn't give me any issues with the interrupted cut when turning off center.  Here it is after some of the roughing.






Unfortunately I didn't take many pictures today as I was too focused on not screwing this up.  Here's a quick video of what it looked like at the end of the day today.  On Monday I need to finish all of the bearing journals to size and do some facing passes on the throws.


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## bhusted (Aug 16, 2019)

Sorry for the lack of updates, but progress on my engine was slow this week.  It took some time to get all of the journals on the crank finished to size, but I'm proud of how it turned out.  I wanted to profile the webs to look more realistic, but I'm running out of time.  Since I was turning between centers, it was quite convenient to pull out out and check the fit.






Once that part was finished, I sawed off the ends and finished them out.  The front was just tapped for the timing chain and turned for some relief.  The back needed to be drilled and tapped for the flywheel bolts.






Of course, the bolt I had for the front sprocket was too long, but everything else fit well.  The starter gear is also installed.













Hopefully more progress to show on Monday.  This is the last week that I have in the shop to get it done.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 16, 2019)

so you have one week left. what parts need to be completed in that week?


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## bhusted (Aug 16, 2019)

stevehuckss396 said:


> so you have one week left. what parts need to be completed in that week?



Good question.  Here's what's left:

Cylinder Heads
Spring Retainers
Rocker Arm Pivots
Engine Stand Mounts
Push Rods
The cylinder heads are obviously the most complicated of these and probably where I'll focus my time for next week.  If necessary I could make the other parts on my little 12" Atlas lathe that I've been fixing up at home.  There's also the possibility that they will let me use the shop after the end of the quarter.


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## chrisscuttingz (Aug 19, 2019)

awsome progress, I looks great !

Where did you get the gears for the starter and flywheel?


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## bhusted (Aug 19, 2019)

chrisscuttingz said:


> awsome progress, I looks great !
> 
> Where did you get the gears for the starter and flywheel?



The gears for the starter and flywheel as well as the motor came from ServoCity.  They supply lots of parts for the robotics team that I coach and so I already was familiar with them.


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## bhusted (Aug 19, 2019)

More progress has been made on the heads.  I got my dovetails milled first thing and did a dry run.  Everything looked good, so I went for it.  

Here we are part way into the roughing operations:





After drilling some more holes in it:





The next step is to rough out the inside for the rockers and then finish out the exhaust runners.  Hopefully I'll have pictures of a completed head tomorrow.


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## bhusted (Aug 21, 2019)

Almost there!  I've finished both heads and begun the assembly process.  I still have yet to make the spring retainers, pushrods, and rocker pivots.  Tomorrow is the last day in the shop and most of that is dedicated to cleanup.  I'll have to finish the remaining parts on my own. 

I'm proud of how the heads turned out.  They certainly look the part.  To hold the heads for the last operation I drilled and tapped 6 holes in the tombstone on the 4th axis.  This way I could easily index it to the angle necessary for the intake side of things.





I milled down as far as I could for the intake runners.  They are close, but I'll need to finish them by hand with the die grinder and files.










I still need to do some de-burring on the heads, but I couldn't resist the opportunity to start putting things together.


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## stevehuckss396 (Aug 22, 2019)

Great job. Do you have somewhere you can go to finish the remaining parts? Would be a shame not to finish. I would like to see it run. I'm sure you would also.


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## Rozlo (Aug 22, 2019)

looks awesome


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## retailer (Aug 22, 2019)

Excellent work - and done so quickly simply amazing , as stevehuckss396 said it's a pity it won't be a runner.


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## bhusted (Aug 24, 2019)

Thanks guys.  The only reason I was able to get this far so quickly is because I simplified the design by not making it run.  Maybe someday I'll have time to dedicate to making a real running model.  For right now, this is better than those plastic models and my son loves to look at it.

The little electric motor that I planned to turn it over was DOA, so once that's replaced I'll get a video of it turning over.  My instructor did say that he'd be willing to let me come into the shop after hours to keep working on parts if I need access to any of the real machines.  Classes there don't start again until late September.  We'll see how far I can get with my little Atlas lathe.


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 15, 2022)

Any updates on this project? Would love to see some pictures and that video with the replacement motor.

Anyway I hope you got a good grade. Well deserved.


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