# Rust prevention with Lanolin - It's better then oil



## moya034

I've recently stumbled upon a "tip" that I'm pretty excited about.

Ever since the lathe has been put together I've been battling rust on all the handles and bare metal surfaces that don't get way oil or some type of lubrication. After a couple days light surface rust shows up. Marvel's Mystery Oil and Nevr-Dull have been working well at removing it, but I can see very quickly where this will be a constant PITA on a regular basis as I will not be using the machine every day. (Well, that remains to be seen, actually.)

Recently, while researching solvents and lubrication for my recently acquired M1 Garand, I quickly stumbled upon a recipe on the internet known as "Ed's Red." One of the ingredients that caught my eye was anhydrous lanolin. After more research, I found out that lanolin has been used as a rust preventative for a very long time by mariners and machinists. The thing that attracted me in particular to use of lanolin was that it is a natural product derived from sheep and an ingredient used in various skin creams and products. If it works, it should be particularly good for the lathe and my various hand tools.

I read somewhere (didn't bookmark) that 1 part lanolin can be mixed with 5 parts mineral spirits to be used as a rust preventer. The idea is the mineral spirits thins the solution, evaporates, and leaves behind a coating of lanolin on the metal.

I picked up the bulk anhydrous lanolin from Amazon. One of those plunger type measuring cups made easy work of measuring out 4 fl oz which I then put in a quart paint can.







In this terrible image you can see I used a double boiler type arrangement to melt the lanolin. I then took it outside and stirred in 20 fl oz of mineral spirits. 






I found a white paper online that I did not have access to download that discusses use of lanolin as a rust preventer. I was able to read the introduction, however, and it stated that the minimum percentage by weight that is needed is 12.5%. Since I used a volume based measurement to mix my solution, I weighed the lanolin and mineral spirits and determined 1 part to 5 parts comes in around 22%.

I put a rag in a pint paint can and thoroughly soaked it with some of the solution. I wiped all the non-oiled lathe parts down with it. I also decided to run a test to see how well it works in comparison to other stuff.

I took an old saw blade, wire wheeled it, and gave it a coat of naval jelly to get all oxides off. Going from left to right: untreated metal, lanolin, oil film, WD-40. We'll see in a week or so how the test turns out.

I am already pleased with how the lanolin treated surfaces feels to the skin. It doesn't feel oily at all, and you can handle other objects without getting oil over them. Probably less chance of cancer too. 






The test coupon has been outside for two days. It started raining last night. The untreated portion has clearly rusted up quickly. So far there are no signs of rust on the other three quadrants. What I find particularly interesting however is look at how the water has created a film over top the untreated area, oil film area, and WD-40. However on the lanolin treated area, the water has apparently beaded up and is largely "dry". (Still no rust on the lathe  )

Going from left to right: untreated metal, lanolin, oil film, WD-40.


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## Brian Rupnow

As an interesting side note to your post----I once bought the frame for an antique car from a sheep farmer. The frame had sat outside for 40 years on a rockpile, in one of the sheepyards. The sheep had used it for a convenient "scratching post" and rubbed up against it wherever it was accessible to them. Although areas where the sheep couldn't reach were deeply pitted with rust, the areas where they could rub their wool against it had no rust whatsoever, preserved by the lanolin in their wool.---Brian,


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## Swifty

Have a product here called "Lanotec", comes in an aerosol can. It's the best rust preventative that I have used, only down side is that you smell like sheep wool after using it. Have some garden tools that are left outside, an occasional spray with Lanotec keeps the rust away. Great for tools in the workshop that are used only occasionally, give them a spray before putting away to keep moisture away.

Paul.


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## lennardhme

yep lanolin [ & Lanotec ] is great product. Take note though that it does leave a slightly sticky residual, which is not a problem on non bearing surfaces. Also great for chain drives etc.
I live in the hills - bit damp & misty particularly this time of the year. I spray the underside of a woolen blanket with lanotec once a year & my machines are covered with the blankets. Never have a problem with rust.
Watch out for those Kiwis Rusty.


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## enfieldbullet

been using lanolin for some time now, for small tools.

it works great indeed.


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## aarggh

I use lanolin for all my machines, and next to light machine oil I've found it the most practical for the rails on my cnc machines. No bad fumes, no stickiness, works well. I use Fluidfilm a lot from H&F but that's expensive, Supercheapauto in OZ has equivalent bulk bottles for a fration of the price, and I find they work just as well!

Cheers, Ian


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## Hopper

That spray on lanolin is good stuff for leather jackets too. Except you walk around smelling like a shearing shed the first two days.


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## moya034

When I was a young boy, my Pop-Pop taught me to get a coffee can, pour a good bit of oil in the bottom of it, and take a clean rag and stick it in there to fully soak it. That was the "oil can" and the rag stayed in there with the lid on. He wiped down all his tools with it on a regular basis. He added oil to it occasionally to keep it wet.

So with that tradition in mind, that is one reason I particularly like this method. Instead of a coffee can I'm using a paint can, and instead of oil I'm using lanolin/mineral spirits.

I will have to grab a spray bottle, however, and see how this solution works as a spray.

Lately I've been very interested in both solvents and lubrication as a result of my metalworking, restoration, firearm, etc. activities. I also drive vehicles and usually do all my own maintenance and repair. There are so many special purpose products out there it is mind boggling. 

I'm finding with a little bit of research, they are all basically made the some basic ingredients we as consumers can get, and mix ourselves at a much cheaper price, often even surpassing the quality or effectiveness of the commercial stuff. Also, it can also sometimes have positive effects for the earth as well. Less product packaging, aerosol sprays, friendlier chemicals, etc.

There are also practical considerations as well. For example, that Ed's Red solution makes use of ATF, Acetone, Mineral Spirits, and Kerosene. All things I already keep in supply anyway. I guess I've added lanolin to that list. 

I'm rambling, but all that being said, for kicks and giggles I did attempt to find where I can purchase some Lanotec. Cursory internet searching did not yield any USA suppliers. I'm curious if it's marketed under a different name here, or simply not available.

While not very suitable for machine and hand tools, I have also seen a multitude of recipes for vehicle undercoating protection which seem worth trying for that purpose. Some people use them on chainsaw chains too. While varied, they consist of a mixture of some type of solvent (kerosene, diesel, mineral spirits, or a combination thereof), paraffin wax, non-detergent oil (or detergent based oil!), with sometimes the addition of lanolin and/or beeswax. 

OK, time to stop rambling for the moment.

Edit:

Ok maybe, not.



Brian Rupnow said:


> Although areas where the sheep couldn't reach  were deeply pitted with rust, the areas where they could rub their wool  against it had no rust whatsoever, preserved by the lanolin in their  wool.---Brian,



That's neat! I also heard stories about 100+ year old iron fences on sheep farms in Scotland in a similar situation.


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## aarggh

Hopper said:


> That spray on lanolin is good stuff for leather jackets too. Except you walk around smelling like a shearing shed the first two days.



Tell you what though, smells way better when machining than when using WD-40! Not to mention the absence of the associated chemicals!

cheers, Ian


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## trev1

The lanolin we have in Australia called lanotec is good stuff , but I find when it dries out a bit, it dries gets  pretty tacky. I have changed tack and buy the 5 litre (gallon) and half and half with auto trans fluid . This mix I use for everything, my machinery, my guns, my boat stuff. 

I am a bit surprised that Australia has a product that America doesn't have as available in local stores. I know Lanotec is Australian, but I thought there would have been a parallel product over there.

Cheers, Trev.


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## Swifty

Lanolin on leather jackets, I wonder how Lanotec will work of leather work boots, will give it a try soon.

Paul.


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## aarggh

Swifty said:


> Lanolin on leather jackets, I wonder how Lanotec will work of leather work boots, will give it a try soon.
> 
> Paul.



As long as you want it supple it will do the trick!

cheers, Ian


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## Cogsy

10+ years ago I was working for a company that was becoming a major stockist/distributor of Lanotec. As part of the training we were shown many case studies and testimonials from successful trials. The one I remember most was a ferry company that treated the outside of their hulls to prevent barnacle growth. According to the literature, not only did it keep their hulls clean, they had measurable savings in fuel, supposedly due to less drag though the water.

It was touted as a miracle product. I can say firsthand that working with sheep gives you nice soft hands at least.


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## jgedde

Can you post a link to the lanolin you bought?  An amazon search brought up many products and I'm not sure which one you used.

Thanks!
John


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## moya034

This is the one I got. If you want a smaller amount, this one looks like it'd fit the bill.

I picked up a canvas tarp to put over the lathe. I think I'll mix up more lanolin and mineral spirits and spray down the canvas with a cheap paint sprayer.


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## jgedde

Thanks!  Now that I know what I'm looking for, I found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lanolin-Anh...038?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5193bacd86

John


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## Quasi

LPS-3 is mostly Lanolin if smell and looks mean anything.


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## Hopper

Swifty said:


> Lanolin on leather jackets, I wonder how Lanotec will work of leather work boots, will give it a try soon.
> 
> Paul.



I use it on my motorbike boots as well. Works a treat. Like Aaaargh, says, makes them nice and supple.

The spray can lanolin is available in the US on eBay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LANOFLEX...Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item2c689241c9


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## Dinkum

This could also be a useful property of lanolin (for modellers).

From Lanotec website:


Stops electrolysis due to dissimilar metals


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## Septic

While Lanolin's water repellent properties have been well known for centuries, it's demise as a commonly used substance is in part due to the fact that many people are allergic to it, or have allergies that can be aggravated by it and even after thorough hand cleansing, it's not unusual for family members and other third parties to become affected by simple skin or clothing contact...

Those close to RAF maintenance personnel often experienced problems in the days when it was used almost exclusively in unpressurised aircraft until not so many years ago due to it's uncanny anti-rust and anti-freezing properties which were so highly prized.


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## moya034

I did read about lanolin allergies, but it was my understanding it is relatively rare. It is still a product in common use in the health and beauty industries. That being said, thanks for bringing the topic up! Users should certainly be aware.


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## Septic

To be fair, the only reason I know of lanolin reactions is because my wife, niece and mother-in-law all suffered from unpredictable bouts of itching (nothing serious though) that we all supposed were due to washing powder or something similar, but after a year, or so we realised that it always coincided with renovation work I used to occasionally on vintage railway equipment and even though I never experienced any problems myself, our GP confirmed the cause using skin tests and told us that most of the time, reactions are mild enough to be mistaken for insect bites, exposure to certain garden plants, or even heat rash....


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## moya034

Based on your family's experiences it almost sounds like the allergy is genetic.


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## Septic

I might agree if wife and mother-in-law were genetically related to my niece


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## goldstar31

Lanolin is SHEEP's suint.


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## rodw

I grew up with the real deal as on our sheep property we could have up to 15,000 wooly creatures running round. Handling greasy wool at shearing time meant your hands were always soft and you boots were supple. Lanolin is a byproduct of the wool scouring process. There is a baby cream called Bepanthin which is lanolin based and very good for nappy rash, chafes and dry lips. I have also used lanolin based grease on firearms. Smelt like an old Ram! 

The building I work in used to be a fabric warehouse many years ago and I can still smell that familiar greasy wool  smell in the lifts after 30+ years as an office. Reminds me as a kid of visits to the central wool stores to see our wool sold at auction.


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## moya034

*Almost two weeks later since I put lanolin on the lathe I still have  no rust.* I was concerned today before I pulled the tarp off as it's been  doing alot of raining and been very humid lately. I'm quite  pleased!

Speaking of tarp, I picked up a canvas drop cloth to put over the lathe. Word to the wise... vacuum it first! (Don't ask me how I know) I picked up a cheap harbor freight paint sprayer and will spray the tarp down with my lanolin mixture.

I also put some in a little hand spray bottle. It's worked very well for some small intricate parts that are awaiting my attention for a little bit on another project.


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## kiwi2

If you want to stop steel rusting on surfaces which don't rub up against each other you may want to try linseed oil. I discovered that when I put linseed oil onto the wooden handle of a shovel and some got onto the rusty steel shank that it reacted with the rust to form a dry, black shiny coating which didn't rust any further. It only works when there is a reasonable amount of surface rust already present. If linseed oil is applied to bright steel it goes sticky.


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## JeffersonHouse

Some years back we had an old fellow bring a revolver into the shop for some work. Both myself and my partner were astonished because we knew for a fact that Colt never made stainless steel pistols back in the 20's.  

The old fellow told us his dad purchased it new back in '32. Being farmers lanolin was what they had so the revolver had been rubbed down with it ever since. The old fellow and his dad had carried that thing nearly every day to control coyotes or hunt deer and Oregon in the winter is far from dry. After nearly 70 years all the bluing was gone, but there wasn't the slightest hint of corrosion. Except for the obvious holster ware that old Colt looked like it was brand new stainless steel.


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## NickP

Thanks for the info - if using lanolin to protect part machined/finished parts for a long term build (very long term in my case!) how do I get the lanolin off at a later date to prime/paint the surfaces or isn't this possible reliably? (Hope that isn't a stupid question - someone's bound to be laughing by now! :) I don't have any equipment to degrease and usually have to rely on degrease sprays or very hot soapy water (if hot enough the water then evaporates off quickly minimising rust).

Thanks, Nick


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## moya034

If I wanted to completely remove it from a surface I'd take a hair drier to warm it a bit, wipe it off with a rag, then clean up with kerosene or mineral spirits.


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## Brian Rupnow

I have been using Brylcreem (A little dab 'l do ya) on my hair ever since I had hair.--It pleases me to no end that the top of my head is never going to rust!!!---Brian


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## NickP

moya034 said:


> If I wanted to completely remove it from a surface I'd take a hair drier to warm it a bit, wipe it off with a rag, then clean up with kerosene or mineral spirits.


Thanks Moya. Hope my question didn't make you laugh too much! 

Nick


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## JeffersonHouse

Hot water and soap.  Lanolin is the lubricant in shaving cream.  In the old days when a barber gave shaves the third and last pass was with melted lanolin.  You wouldn't feel stubble for three day or get razor burn.  

That old guys revolver was so saturated with the stuff it was impossible to blue.  We would have had to bake it to ash inside the metal.


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## steamboat willie

I have found this treatise on the use of lanolin very helpful. I have used Lanotec (aerosol form) for several years now on our son's racing bicycle - on the chain, the duralliers and the associated moving parts. He often races in inclement weather (no accounting for the madness of youth) and the life of the chain and running gear has been extended dramatically. I would estimate often nearly doubling the life he gets out of the components. It seems to allow the shedding of water/dirt as he rides. He washes the dirt etc off the bike at the end of the day and recoats with Lanotec. It seems to prevent the accretion/buildup of stuck-on dirt that forms an abrasion paste.
I too can heartily recommend it fore this sort of use, though I did notice once a number of rather interested ewes in a paddock look at him with questionable intent as he cycled past their paddock...
Bill.


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## V22

I had a serious rust problem with my machinery until I tried lanolin (Lanotec). It totally solved all my rust problems. I now spray it on everything. Vices, milling table, angle plates, rotary table, chuck, collets and more. It is garage wonder mist! 

To *clean it off in under 5 seconds* I simply spray WD40 on it. It dissolves immediately and I simply wipe it off. WD40 really removes the hassle factor with Lanolin. I would be lost without it! I felt compelled to sign up and share this tip..

As a side note it also stopped my sneaky front door hinge. I tried a few other lubricants in cans, but it always squeaked after a month. Lanolin was sprayed on it over 6months ago and not so much as a squeak since..


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## kiwi2

Hi,
    I've treated myself to a new mill vice which I would like to keep looking bright and shiny. I've purchased some lanolin but I'm not sure what mineral spirits are. Can anyone tell me what it is? I'm assuming it's not petrol (gasoline). The woman in the paint section of the local hardware suggested Turpentine or white spirits. The turps would be non drying while the white spirits would evaporate.
Thanks,
Alan C.


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## OrangeAlpine

Mineral spirits is a turpentine substitute.  Very slow drying and the modern formulation in the states is nearly orderless.  Also known as mineral turpentine, white spirits and Stoddard Solvent.

Bill


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## kiwi2

Thanks Bill. I'll use mineral turps.


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## Mattkguns

heads up guys, Fluid Film is another lanolin based chemical company

http://www.fluid-film.com/products/

they seem to me much more widely available than lanotec or lanoflex

it is also available at orielly auto parts and autozone under part no. as11

will be picking some of this up on the way home


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## vascon2196

Would this Lanolin work on a Bridgeport Mill?


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