# too oil or not too oil



## chillybilly (Oct 3, 2009)

Being as the insulation project of the garage was postponed requiring more planning ,this has left me with the condensation problem this winter .

I have some "duck oil" made by deb on the "lotions and potions" shelf ,i have coated both the mill with this in an attempt to prevent the rust .

It seems that as the temp drops the oil forms a waxy coating on the machines ,i have noticed though that the swarf etc does stick to this ,eaising the concern that this may in turn wear the slides etc .

Any views appreciated ,the threat of a large rust attack would probably wreck the machines faster


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## Davyboy (Oct 4, 2009)

I have some "duck oil"  ??? What part of the duck does this come from? Oh my! 
Condensation and rust, a perennial problem. Last year, I sprayed my garage-kept lathe with WD40. It helped, but still had rust growing in the sludge. Mostly surface rust, it rubbed off easily, leaving a "nice patina". Now I relegate that product to cleaning only, there's better lubricants out there too. 
This year, I got some LPS #3 in a spray can, about $12 US for the can, but it's made specifically for protecting metal from rust. I haven't tried it yet. I may put some on my stock of drill rod and my fixtures too.
Just know that your not the only one with this issue. I hope to hear some other comments, too.

Davyboy


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## shred (Oct 4, 2009)

I use some Boeshield I got at a woodworking store on big things. The story is it was invented by Boeing for rust-prevention (it does not remove rust, that's what the similarly-packaged 'Rust Free' does, but EvapoRust does that much better). It works, but like all the others I've seen, leaves a waxy film that you have to remove if you want full precision when you get back to work. On little parts, I usually just dunk them in my mini parts washer, which has a WD-40 like mix of kerosene and oil in it. I over-oil most everything. Oil's cheap.

So far that's worked. That plus the rust-removing magic of Evaporust is keeping me in business.


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## chillybilly (Oct 4, 2009)

A mate of mine who runs a nitro drag bike uses some stuff from the Us military aircraft scene,swears by it ,which kinda means something as the nitro methane fuel eats everything apparently !!!! Will get the name and post ..........gonna use up the duckoil and find alternative .It seems to thin off ok once you get going ok when it warms .

Have to confess it does make some super smoke when you put a spot on the job too,very juvenile i know but such fun :big:


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## mu38&Bg# (Oct 8, 2009)

Anyone use Corrosion-X? I have some for RC engines. I haven't tried it for rust protection yet as I have an aerosol can and it's just messy. I have Boeshield and for long term storage it's great. Other parts get a dip in kerosene-motor oil.

http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html


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## Artie (Oct 8, 2009)

A simple one from days using rc aero engines..we used and expensive 'after-run' oil to reduce the damage by residual nitro. It worked great but was expensive... then a local modeller (a chemist) had a look at it and found it to be.... auto trans fluid and kerosine...doh.... works really well and stops rust in my climes... not severe either way though... might help you 50/50 mix.

Good luck.....


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## cobra428 (Oct 8, 2009)

I was using Marvel Mystery Oil as my "After Run" oil in my airplanes It works. I have engine that start and run great. Some 20~30 years old.

Tony


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## chillybilly (Oct 9, 2009)

Have comenced use of the duck oil ,even bought a little brass sprayer ;D

Regards stopping the rust it is mustard ,it solidifys slightly ,to a waxy covering which seems to work realy well .Does require a quick wipe off the slides before use to stop it building up on the wipers ,close obsevations to check that its not collecting bits and wrecking my slides are being carried out .

Seems best to get rid of all the bits before oiling up too ,saves getting them in your hands when you wipe it off !!!!! Every day a school day :big:


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