# Slide hammer prick punch



## mklotz (Dec 27, 2007)

It seems that, whenever I get the prick punch located just so, I accidentally nudge it out of position while reaching for the hammer I've inevitably forgotten to lay close to hand.

So, I made a prick punch that has a built-in hammer.







The steel slug rides freely on the rod and is dropped, slidehammer-fashion, onto the steel plate pinned to the shaft to drive the prick punch into the work. The punch itself is made from an index hole punch rescued from an old mechanical teletype. The brass screw at the end hides a pocket to store extra punches and also serves to keep the hammer on the rod.


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## gilessim (Dec 27, 2007)

Now that, Marv, is a superb idea!, I have a couple of the automatic variety, WOT for small stuff as they tend to jump!, definitely on my "next to do" list...Giles


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## mklotz (Dec 27, 2007)

gilessim  said:
			
		

> Now that, Marv, is a superb idea!, I have a couple of the automatic variety, WOT for small stuff as they tend to jump!, definitely on my "next to do" list...Giles



I have to agree. If you're building 1:1 battleships, I suppose the automatic center punch is useful but for small models their best use is to change out the punch tip and use them to set miniature rivets.

When you finish yours, show us a picture. It's always nice to get some feedback on these tool suggestion posts to prove that people are actually making use of the ideas presented - and I mean that in regard to not just my ideas but to all the folks who share their ideas and cleverness here.


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## 1Kenny (Dec 27, 2007)

Have to agree, Marv, that is a good idea. My automatic punches all slip once in a while.

Kenny


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## Cedge (Dec 27, 2007)

Marv,
Having just cussed my spring loaded punch for yet another missed mark today, you've once again made a very timely post. I've got a small micro chuck that will be easily modified, needing only the addition of a sleeve for the drop hammer and it will still drill tiny holes too. Twenty minutes of work might result in less need for anger management therapy ...LOL

Thanks again Marv...
Steve


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## wareagle (Dec 27, 2007)

Marv, thanks for sharing a very simple solution to a common problem. I think there will be one in my shop this weekend!


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## shred (Dec 28, 2007)

I made a 'Marv-hammer' this afternoon. Turned out I needed more weight than I'd initially expected, but it worked very well to punch some little pieces I'd been working on. I chose to thread and superglue the anvil into place versus pinning and am using a broken Dremel bit reground as the punch. 

I put a rim of coining (half-knurl) around the top of the weight more or less by accident, but it turns out I really like it.


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## mklotz (Dec 29, 2007)

Shred,

If you're not getting a deep enough impression, you might consider a variant I use on another slide hammer tool I made.

Make two hammer slugs - one about twice as heavy as the other. Slide the smaller onto the tool first, then the larger. Dropping just the smaller will produce a light impression. For a deeper impression, drop them both.


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## shred (Dec 29, 2007)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> Shred,
> 
> If you're not getting a deep enough impression, you might consider a variant I use on another slide hammer tool I made.
> 
> Make two hammer slugs - one about twice as heavy as the other. Slide the smaller onto the tool first, then the larger. Dropping just the smaller will produce a light impression. For a deeper impression, drop them both.


Thanks. With the weight shown (~1" dia), it works well and I can vary the drop-height to vary the depth of the impression. I suspect the tip angle is probably steeper than necessary at the moment-- more 'poke' and less 'splat', as it were. 

Btw, since the picture was taken, I cross-drilled the back end and added a small loop of 3/32" music wire which acts as a hang-loop, weight-stop and lets me use it as a mini slide-hammer should I need to do some model dent-pulling .


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## Powder keg (Dec 29, 2007)

The more look at this, The more I need one ;D This wil be a handy addition to my box.

Thanks again for sharing, Wes


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## chuck foster (Dec 30, 2007)

with all this talk about the slide hammer center punch i thought i just had to have one!
so here is my version:





now that i have built one i look at it and say "how did i work without it"!!!!

i'm going to my dads this afternoon and i know he is going to want one as well, i guess i should have made 2 of them!!

i used a broken 1/8" carbide endmill for the punch and the rest is just bit's of steel from the scrap box.
thanks mklots for the great idea.

chuck


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## mklotz (Dec 30, 2007)

And thank you Chuck and Shred for taking the time to show me and the other forum members that the ideas folks pick up on this forum are actually being used to improve people's workshops.

The fact that you've proved that you're actually using ideas found here may encourage some of our more bashful lurkers to submit their ideas, tips and self-designed tools.


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## Cedge (Dec 30, 2007)

Marv
Thanks for an enjoyable afternoon project idea. I raided my scrap box for likely materials and wound up using nothing but bits and bobs that had accumulated there. The prick point is an old scribe that once lived with a tri-square, while the hammer weight is a cylinder drum from an early screw up made during the Elbow engine project. The little retainer end was something that has been in the scrap box for years and never seemed to be needed for anything. I'll be happy not to have to move it out of the way anymore when scrounging. The point is an interference fit, set in place with a bit of heat. The brass anvil was silver soldered in position. 

This one is a nice addition to my growing collection of custom made tooling and an absolutely excellent novice project.

Steve


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## tattoomike68 (Dec 30, 2007)

A great tool I have thats simular is a vice grip slide hammer. Its like a dumb bell with a hole through it thats on a long rod that threads into a vice grip. Its handy on machine repairs where you need to pull taper pins and roll pins.

If you dont have one then you should make one, its sweet to have around.


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## gilessim (Jan 4, 2008)

Hi, well , here's my slightly blinged version of Marv's great idea, it's about 6" long, I used a masonry nail for the point and a chunk of stainless for the hammer.... 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



Giles


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## mklotz (Jan 4, 2008)

Wow, Giles, that's almost too pretty to use. I love it though. Looks like you inherited it in some proper Victorian gentleman's tool chest.

Tell me, do you wear an ascot and a cut-away while machining?


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## rake60 (Jan 4, 2008)

Giles you've turned a simple tool into yet another work of art!

Absolutely Beautiful!

Rick


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## gilessim (Jan 4, 2008)

Thanks for the compliments guys!, I guess we're all artists at heart and some days it comes out ,and some days a little less!

Marv, I've never been one for ties (they made me wear one at school!) but funnily enough I do wear an apron that is like a long, cutaway waistcoat that my wife made me (her idea, she's a dressmaker!) it works really well!, I'll put up a pic sometime.

I wanted to say that a couple of weeks ago, I was at my dentist (ugh!) to change some 20 year old bridge work and he used a similar slide hammer affair, with a hook on the end, to pull out the old bridge, I have to go again next week so I think I'll take mine along to show him!.....Giles


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## mklotz (Jan 4, 2008)

Replace the masonry nail with plastic in case he wants to try it out on you.

Completely off topic, but your dentist anecdote reminded me...

I was asked once to remove some drive screws holding a thread chart to a lathe. I took a pair of miniature ViseGrips and replaced the adjustment screw with a length of CRS rod I had threaded to fit the pliers adjustment nut. Added a slide weight and a washer screwed on the end of the rod to make a slide hammer ViseGrip. Grab those nasty little drive screws in a death grip, slam the weight a few times and they come out far enough to get a screwdriver under them and pry them out. Worked slicker than deer guts on a glass door knob.


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## Rog02 (Jan 4, 2008)

Hey Marv:

Here is one to file for future reference. I needed to come up with some sort of dynometer to do tear test on bonded metal coupons. After much chin rubbing and butt scratching, I ended up replacing the Vice Grip adjusting screw with an eye bolt and just used a "Fish Scale" for the measurement. Since, I have used the same trick for everything from hanging cowling sections in the paint booth to stretching composite material for vacuum bagging.


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## dparker (Mar 17, 2008)

Hello All: The homemade tooling I see on here is great. I would like to thank everybody for letting us see your special tools and even how you make them. I think Marv's tools caught my eye because of their common sense, simplicity and usefulness. In your honor I have tried to do as acceptable a job of constructing these tools as those shown to us. Love the brass, but hard to come by at a enjoyable price!





The one tool in the center is a cheater for me, the 1/8" carbide is ground with a point at each end, one end is ground flat on the side out to the tip for resting on the OD of a part and then knowing that dimension, feeding it in until the desired diameter is reached and touching the face of the part being machined to scribe a circle. The other end is ground to a point at the OD of the carbide to touch the ID of a bore, then knowing that bore diameter, backing out to reach the desired diameter and scribing the face of the part being machined.
I did not know where to buy Victrola needles so I buy 1/8" carbide rod and grind them into what I need. The slide hammer has two weights on it, one for slightly marking,checking and then using the heavier one to make it big enough for a center punch or just use it as is.
Here is a picture of many of the tools I have made over the years for my own use.




Thank You all for sharing your ideas with us-----don


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## Bernd (Mar 18, 2008)

Don,

Very nice tooling you have made there. Perhaps a few individual pictures of some/all items and their use would be nice. I was thinking some of the more unusual tooling you've made. For example in the first pic. That brass piece with the two round steel pieces on it. I can only assume that is a brass sign bar. I also see some unusual items in the second picture. The round, what looks like a chuck, piece to the left of the knurling tool. Also great picture quality. Thanks much for sharing.

regards,
Bernd


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## mklotz (Mar 18, 2008)

Beautiful work, Don. I'm flattered.

Bernd, you can learn more about my sine bar protractor on our club web page...

http://www.schsm.com/html/marv_klotz_62.html

(click through all three pictures)


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## dparker (Mar 18, 2008)

Bernd: The "chuck" was built from Guy Lautard's Bedside Reader books, looked like it might come in handy someday. He is a good salesman on those sort of things.












I used the taper from a broken taper mount drill from the machineshop where I used to work when they were first going CNC. I had the machinists bring me the damaged drills (bent/broke) and I cut off the drill and now use the tapers for making and mounting tooling. The mounting in the headstock is like a drawbar and I can also use that to hold in milling cutter holders and have a setup with a adjustable bolt length for repeatable length machining on parts.
I also machined a spindle adapter on one of the tapers so if desired I could mount a chuck on the tailstock, not sure why but I might want to someday.




don


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## Bernd (Mar 18, 2008)

Marv,

Great site. Now I'll never get anything done. I just have to look at all those wonderful pics. :big:

Don,

I thought that chuck looked familar. Great idea on recycling used and broken drills.

Bernd


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## d-m (Mar 23, 2008)

Had to have one of these one of the hardest things is getting that mark spot on this is one of the most useful tools one can build 
Thought I share mine not much just stuff from the scrap bin pressed on a old punch in to the reamed hole and fab a few collars quick and easy
Dave


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## d-m (Mar 23, 2008)

must say this is one of the tools you wonder how you ever got a long with out. Thought I would just share the Dave version it was quick and dirty 
Dave


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## d-m (Mar 23, 2008)

some how it posted twice sorry


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## old-biker-uk (Mar 24, 2008)

Thanks Marv - you should be getting royalties !
Here's mine (punch not money) All from the scrap bin including the diesel injector valve for the pointy bit which is is just a gentle push fit, I like the idea of setting small rivets with the tool.




Be interesting to know how many have been made.....
Mark


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## chuck foster (Mar 24, 2008)

since we are praising marv :bow: for his great tool ideas i thought i would post a pic of the tap holders and slide hammer that i built.




marv i don't know how i would be able to work with out these "gadgets" ;D

thanks 
      chuck


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## tel (Apr 2, 2008)

I made one of these many years ago, but the result looked more like a stone club compared to recent efforts - I've just taken the opportunity to make a new one, which looks a lot like D_ M's only longer


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## steamer (Apr 10, 2008)

I am a convert! ....and I broke my spring loaded one :-

Here is a model of my version...to be built as time allows...

The small hammer is two thirds the size of the big one and I grooved the shaft every inch to act as a guide for depth of penetration. The guide and punch are seperate. Both are hardened

I tried to get the CG of the hammer as low as I could and as close to the anvil as possible.

Will make it from brass for "bling"






Dave


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