# Show Us Your Lathe



## rake60

I've had a few hobby lathes in my basement.
The one I have now is this Grizzly 9 X 19





It's the same machine sold by Harbor Freight as a 9 X 20
Grizzly measures to a live center vs. a dead center.
Their made in China!!!    :shock:    Any _REAL_ machinist knows that means
their nothing but JUNK!  Let's keep that mith alive to keep the prices in
line.   :wink:   A better compound clamp a tweak where and there and I
have NO complaints!!!!  It's been a great little machine for the price.


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## tattoomike68

I have a smithy 12 X 20. I have the 6" 3 jaw and an 8" 4 jaw. I ordered it new and also bought a live center.






Its fun to run and gets the job done.

Its been a fine machine for home shop work.

Its made in china too.


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## olcowhand

Yeah I know....clean that clutter up....but then I couldn't find anything!  :lol: 
South Bend 10x36.  Great lathe, but wish bad it had V-belt instead of flat belt drive.  I have a half rest, full rest, knurler, & other stuff I have no idea about!
I bought all for $600, table too.  Came with a rig for horizontal milling & 20lbs of cutters, bits, 6" 3jaw,& 8" 4jawchucks & more. 





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## lugnut

My lathe is one of Grizzlys G0516 Three in one machines. (lathe, mill and drill)  I have removed the milling attachment and put it on its own table that I got from Little Machine Shop.  Best move Ive done in a long time.  I had a little 9 South Bend several years back,  but never had any tooling for it, so I never used it.   When I retired in 2003 I sold all my stuff in the shop and moved to the Oregon coast. When I decided to get another lathe I made sure I got enough tooling with it to do something.  The Grizzly machine came with a lot of tooling.  I know that most will say the SB was a better machine, but I didnt have room to move it here.  Self teaching myself to operate a lathe and milling machine has been a real challenge.  Sites like this one and Home Shop Machinists have been my savoir.  I just wish I had gotten into this stuff earlier when my eyes where better.
Mel


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## Cedge

I guess this is as good a place to make a first post as any. I'm far from being an expert at machining, but after 3 years of making some of the nicest chips ever made, I've actually begun making successful projects that do not require 3 or 4 attempts to complete a useable end product. 

A lot of the stiff learning process was accomplished by making mods and improvements to my Micromark 7x14 lathe and its evil sister, their mini mill.  Yes... there actually is one of those Chinese made Mini lathes hiding somewhere under all of the changes...LOL.

Steve


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## tattoomike68

Cedge said:
			
		

> I guess this is as good a place to make a first post as any. I'm far from being an expert at machining, but after 3 years of making some of the nicest chips ever made, I've actually begun making successful projects that do not require 3 or 4 attempts to complete a useable end product.
> 
> A lot of the stiff learning process was accomplished by making mods and improvements to my Micromark 7x14 lathe and its evil sister, their mini mill.  Yes... there actually is one of those Chinese made Mini lathes hiding somewhere under all of the changes...LOL.
> 
> Steve



Wow, steve what is this?


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## Cedge

Tattoo...
When I bought the lathe, I already knew my eyesight and the dial marks were not going to get along well.  Micromark offered these "Dial Mounted DRO's" for the lathe and I bought them when I ordered the machines. They work pretty well, bu the inherent backlash in thse small machines qucikly degrades their accuracy after a few retractions and plunges. 

I recently installed a true DRO system which allows me to share the read out unit between my lathe and my mill. Rather than replace the original dials, I kept these "pseudo" DRO's because they do have the advantage of registering in single digits to a forth decimal.  if I need to shave .0001 from the work piece, the DRO will get me in the right spot, even if the machine may not let me hold the tolerance at that level. Surprisingly, I've been able to make a really few good cuts well under .0005.  It just takes a steady hand and a good stiff scotch for relaxing afterwards...LOL

Both micromark and LMS offer these as an inexpensive DRO otpion. I enjoyed them when I couldn't afford the jump to digital scales. Now, with The digital scales in place,  the back lash problem is simply a minor annoyance, rather than a potential mine field.

Steve


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## tattoomike68

Wel ill be darned, that sounds like a handy little deal to have. My eyes are not as good as they used to be.


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## Hal

Steve

Is that "dial mounted DRO" something that could be mounted/installed on any dial??

I would like something like that for my tailstock.

Hal


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## Hal

Steve 

I have to smile when see the bullet holes decal on you lathe. :lol: 

 Was that put there before you had the bugs worked out of your new lathe.

I also see that you have modified your lathe by adding a indexer head(?) and a stepper motor to accessorize your lathe.

What do you use those for??

If a stepper motor was added to the lead screw on a lathe that was inch only would that enable it to cut metric threads??

Hal


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## Cedge

Hal...
The DRO's probably wouldn't work for the tail stock since they are sized to fit the leadscrews used on the cross slide and compound of the 7" x XX" lathes. I'm not sure if they would fit anything larger.  You'd have to ask the guys at LMS. 

I added the DRO to the tail stock using a cheap, large number display style caliper from Harbor Freight.  I cut the tangs off using a dremel and grinding wheel and made up a small clamp to catch the MT2 sleeve.  It works like a charm and it "can" be plugged into the main DRO displaly if one wanted to do so. I don't, since the tailstock is on and off the machine so much.

The spindle mounted indexer is something I built to let me drill evenly spaced radial hole patterns in things like small engine cylinders, cylinder heads, small pipe flanges.  I've adapted a dremel tool to mount on the cross slide and use it to drill any number of holes concentric to the centerline of whatever I've turned, while it is still in the lathe.  The indexer plate has 3 rows of holes, numbering 40, 50 and 60. Those combinations will let you drill quite a  number of different patterns. 

The small motor is actually from a Sieg powerfeed which was originally meant to fit the mini mill.  I had one that malfunctioned and was replaced. They didn't want it back, so it sat on a shelf until a friend who works with electronics fixed it for me.  

On a whim, I adapted it to the lead screw on the lathe so that I could control the speed of the saddle travel independently of the normal change gear drive.  It allows for smooth slow travel for nice finish cuts and has the advantage of letting me use a carriage stop on the lathe bed. The variable speed controls have a feedback circuit that cuts the motor off when it hits the stop.  Less hand cranking is probably the bottom line answer.  I would disengage the drive before doing any threading since it is in no way synched to the threading function.  

The recently added handwheel has proven to be even better at delivering a smooth finish cut, even if you do have to crank it....LOL. It's a nice mod because there are no hot chips dropping on my hand, way over there. 

Bullet holes?... uh... leftovers from the go-cart restoration project I recently did for my grandsons.  Still enough kid in me that I couldn't resist the temptation, I guess...LOL.

Steve


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## gt2ride

Here is my collection of Lathes



























LeBlond Regal 10






SB 10K






Craftsman 6in






Logan 10in






Levin





Atlas f10





Monarch 10EE





SB 10L





Myford  





Super Adept





Unimat SL200





Haighton Cadet


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## Sprocket

Hi .  First post on this forum. I "know" some of you form the HSM  board.

Any way, this is my lathe. It's a 1979 SB heavy 10. This is just after I
finished cleaning and painting it. It was a pretty awful green before

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/Sprocket/DSCN0410.jpg

It doesn't look that good any more. That was 3 or 4 years ago.

Sometime I'll figure out how to put in a picture instead of a link.

Doug


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## rake60

Welcome Doug
That lathe looks bullet proof.  Hard to find them buit like that now.
It looks as solid as the machine olcowhand uses.
Looks GREAT!


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## rake60

Welcome to HMEM Ian.

Great looking old machine you have there.
I've had a couple project lathes in my shop.  I traded an $89 rifle for this one.
It's a Garvin turret screw machine that was made in about 1889.




I played with it for about a year then sold it to a collector for $500
Rebuilding an old machine not only brings a solid old treasure back to live,
it makes you a better operator of the machine.  

Rick


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## 1Kenny

Welcome Ion,

I always like looking at lathes.


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## m_kilde

Hi All

Also I would like to present my lathe, bought this spring.
A chinese sure, bad painting but actually very good proportions and the finish on headstock, and other moving parts is good.

The picture shows my lathe with my homemade milling attachment installed


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## rake60

I like the looks of your milling attachment.
Nice machine!


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## gt2ride

Here is my 1976 Southbend lathe. It was not cheap. 






It came with some assy. 






Are there any SB 10K owners on this site?


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## 1Kenny

Here is my lathe.


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## tattoomike68

1Kenny said:
			
		

> Here is my lathe.



Lots of chips, I like it.


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## shred

I just picked up a small Atlas with a ton of tooling from a guy whose dad used it until he passed on.  I'll get pics up when I clean it up a little, but that drill bit reminded me of something.. in with all the tooling were four, count 'em four 3/4" drill bits.  A pile of bits smaller than 3/8", but nothing much else larger.  Anybody know why somebody might want four 3/4" drills for a small (~6") lathe?


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## gt2ride

Sprocket  My headstock bearing is draging a little. I unscred the hold down screw a little. It has plenty oil.  This was on high speed
Do you have any problem with the flat belt?.  I would think a guide would be in order.


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## gt2ride

Here is my latest lathe  It is a Levin instriment lathe made in 1952.


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## georgeseal

Well heres my Craftsman 12" that I have owned for thirty five years
George from Conyers


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## Sprocket

gt2ride - 

On my lathe, the headstock bearings are adjusted by adding or removing shims between the bearing tops and the base. They are really thin, some like paper. There is also an end play adjustment on the left end, a ring with a clamp screw.





You'll see that my head is a little different than yours, but I'll bet they are similar inside. I haven't had any real problems with the flat belt, the one that came with it  was kind of oil soaked, so I made a new one. I glued the new one so its joint is less noticeable. I made that out of leather, but I have heard of people using automotive flat belts and skived glue joints. I'm not sure what you have in mind for a guide. 
those oil cups lead inside to wicks that take oil up to the spindle. you might see if you can clean them out. Also try adding a little spindle oil directly to the top of the spindle next to the bearing and let it wick in. If it has been sitting a while, it could just be a little dry.

Just some ideas... may have no "bearing" on your situatuion.

Doug


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## Bogstandard

Hi Doug,
If you hadn't already found it here is a bit of a write up on the Southbend Heavy. It mentions in the text about using standard v belts on the flat cone pulley.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/southbend/page4.html

John


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## Sprocket

Hi John,

The motor to jackshaft does use a "v" belt, seems odd, but it is a "v" pulleyon the motor, flat pulley on the jackshaft, and that's how it was supposed to be.
I found this in the "Lathes UK" writeup.

"A rather unusual feature was the drive from electric motor to countershaft; the motor pulley was a two-step V type which drove, via a V belt, onto a very large-diameter, narrow, flat pulley. This apparently senseless idea (of a V belt working on a flat pulley) actually performs perfectly well - but it has been known for disbelieving owners of used lathes to convert the motor pulley to a narrow flat type - and suffer dreadful slip as a result."

That part really does work well, the leather flat belt driving the spindle will slip long before the "V" belt does.
before










after


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## gt2ride

I found  a little one this timeL It is a Levin instriment lathe.  18in long but weighs 65lb.


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## gt2ride

Sprocket   Sometimes when I clutch it and then start it up the flat belt will fall to the smaller pully in the lower unit.  Or maybe I should stop and start it with the switch when I want to mic. something.


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## tattoomike68

So thats a EMCO Maximat 10v-P, it looks like a dandy machine like a shoptask.

Very cool.


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## macona

Comparing the Emco to a shoptask is like comparing a BMW Motorcycle to a little chinese scooter.

Heres a pic of my toy... Just finished going through her.

For those who dont know its a Monarch 10EE


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## lugnut

Macona, WOW that is the first lathe that I have seen that I would call beautiful!   Thanks for sharing it with us.  Do you know how old it is?  
Your right when you say like comparing a BMW Motorcycle to a little Chinese scooter.   I know literally nothing about lathes of different size and brands but that one of yours looks very stout and Very impressive.  I know it's the first red one I've seen.
Welcome aboard the group.
Mel


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## macona

Ooo.. Tool gloat time!

This Monarch was built in 06/1942 called a "Round Dial" for its round threading/feed selector dial. Originally a war machine it has tags internally from the Detroit Ordinance District. 0-2500 RPM infinitely adjustable 12.5" swing 20" between centers. With taper attach and threading stop built into cross feed screw. Came with 6 jaw Buck Adjust-tru, original 8" 3 jaw, 8" 4 jaw, 11" face plate, steady, follow, 5C collet nose and drawbar, traveldial (Replaced with DRO)

The 10EE began production in 1939 with a hydraulic variable speed drive which was replaced soon after with a Ward-Leonard style Motor-Generator variable speed system where a three phase motor runs a generator and an exciter which in turns runs a 3HP DC motor with an integral shifting gear box for a back gear. The drive is capable of accelerating 0 to 2500 rpm within 3 to 4 seconds and full stop in 2 seconds without a mechanical braking system. 

Later the motor generator was upgraded to a vacuum tube based system which lasted until 1983. At that point it went to a solid state drive until recently where they switched to a 7.5hp ac motor with a VFD.

The lathe came out of the factory with .000030 spindle runout, less than .0005 per foot bed straightness. Oil pump in the apron lubes the ways as the saddle moves. Also an oil system in the tailstock. The spindle is separated from the motor by two large v belts to eliminate any motor vibration from getting into the spindle and affecting the finish. The gearbox is also driven by a flat belt when in feed mode to insure there is no gear train noise going back to the spindle as well. The spindle had built in forward/neutral/reverse selector do disengage the threading gearing when the lathe is not being used to thread. While cutting you can set a nicked on edge of the headstock and it will not move. All of this gives the finest finish of any lathe ever built to this day.

Think it as a heavier, larger swing version of a Hardinge HLV-H. Weighs over 3000 lbs. You can still buy one new from the factory today. About $80,000. A Factory rebuilt one is about 40 to 50k.

Heres a few more pics. First is when I had it set up for making windings to try and repair the coolant pump, middle pic is a spare drive system for it,  and the last is a pic of when I got it a couple months ago.


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## macona

I was looking at a Colchester 2500 before I bought the EE. But the parts prices are insane over here. $600 for a gear shift handle!

Oh, as for the comparison on Lathes a EMCO (Not Enco) is a very nice swiss made lathe. I was looking at one as well before I bought the EE. But it was just too small. Pretty much any of these ShopTasks and HF stuff are really junk from China (Heck I had a Griz 7x12). Taiwan stuff is good to very good. European stuff can be excellent where they have not cut corners. There is no manual lathe made in the US any more (Possible exceptions being the Harding HLV-H and Monarch 10EE which is made from old castings).

Of the old American iron in existance the popular ones are Atlas (Low to med-good quality), South Bend and Logan (Good to Very Good quality.) Clausing (Very Good) and Hardinge and Monarch (None Better)

South Bends are highly overrated and sell for way too much. You could get a nice Rockwell, Clausing or Logan for cheaper and have better machine. Kind like Starbucks, mediocre quality for premium price


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## jgarrett

Macona, That is without a doubt the prettiest lathe I have ever seen..Almost too nice to use!!!  Might good job of refinishing..
Julian


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## Cedge

Macona
That monarch is a show piece and something to be proud of. I was offered an identical machine about a week ago, but I don't have the power source available and no clue how I'd ever get it in the garage if I had it.  The guy who offered it was telling me it was used onboard a naval warship in its early working life which also began in 1942.  He mentioned the motor being capable of DC voltage operation but I didn't ask for details.  So far I've had to walk away from deals on the Monarch and a Hendy of a little smaller stature in the past couple of months. 

I'd bet the darned thing runs like a dream....it sure looks the part.

Steve


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## macona

I know they have some castings still but they have not had any cast in a long time from what I understand. New machine is around $80k from what I know.

I wouldnt pass up a EE because of the power requirements. I built a simple dynamic phase converter to run it off of. I will also use that to run the carbide tool grinder I am bringing home tomorrow.

The main motor in the EE is a DC motor. Runs off of 115v for the field and 230v for the armature. The generator that is direct coupled to the main AC motor provides the 0-230v DC for the armature and the belt coupled exciter provides the 115v for the field and all the control contactors.

3 phase is good for more than big lathes. It can show significant increase in surface finish over a standard single phase induction motor. So if you do find a lathe with a 3 ohase motor dont swap out the motor. Get a phase converter or better yet get a VFD and drive it with that.


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## compound driver

Hi macona

I agree with you fully on the three phase thing, i wouldnt have a single phase machine to be honest. 
The only problem in the Uk is getting three phase into a workshop at home. Im OK mine is classed as a full workshop so insurance and such is not a big problem. The sting in the tail was the 14k to have the power company run the trench and cables 29 feet from the junction!!!!

The Monarch certainly is a nice looking lathe and a damned good machine to use. We had one for a short time in the works in Boston it was later replaced with a Hardinge. One of the other machines a i rather enjoyed using was a Logan 10. Much the same as the Southbend but a lot more substantial if very prone to belt slip if  the sheaves were not well polished.

Cheers Kevin


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## macona

There is a company over here that makes a product called phase perfect (http://www.phaseperfect.com/). Makes three phase as good if not better than utility 3 phase from single phase. Up to 96amps. Not cheap but cheaper than having 3 phase ran in.

But there is one other reason not to have 3 phase ran in. That is you dont have to pay a "demand" charge which can be a real killer when starting large motors.

Logans are way underrated. In general much nicer than a SB and parts are still available (http://www.lathe.com) There was a nice 14" gearhead Logan in the local craigslist here a week or so going for only $1200!


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## compound driver

Hi

I did look at using a rotary setup rather than having three phase run in. The problem is with two mills and three lathes it gets a bit heavy on the 230volt woring not that all would be running at the same time but its not that rare for two to be going at the same time.

I thought a lot of the Logan it was a good solid accurate lathe. When it was bought we had that and a Van Norman 6a mill for $400 the pair. The seller had worked at the Newport news ship yards and didnt want anything to do with machines once he retired. 
The VN i still say was worth two Bridgports there was more iron in the headstock of the VN than a complete J head. (ok maybe not but close).

Old American machine tools are very worth thinking about even given there age most will still do a good turn and for many years. The Vn mill still had beautifuly frosted ways and looked like it should work for years.

Cheers Kevin


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## gt2ride

Just brought a Logan 10in home.  I have a lot of cleaning to do on this one.  Would like to hear from a Logan owner.


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## J. Tranter

I have an old Logan 820 that I bought for $800. It's the best thing in the world.


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## gt2ride

J Tranter  Did you paint your lathe and if so what color? My lathe is a Model 825  Built in 1945


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## Hexbasher

this is my girl at work

Okuma LS 20X80













^^proto-type crank shaft i did, rough in three peices, i welded 'er, then mounted the 4-jaw on the mill, dialed it in, offset it and dialed the 3 jaw in...mounted it all back on the lathe and made my finishing cuts.... three bearing diameters shown in pic (0.0005 tol) and 3a thread....fun part was pulling the tail stock out, using a steady and drilling a 0.25 through hole on that side...op side was just a 6" long 0.001 tol dia with 2 oil grooves.




fix that pic in a sec

 I fixed it mike. [/


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## rake60

That Okuma is an impressive looking old work horse.

Those older Japanese machines are solid, rugged lathes that will take just
about anything you can throw at them.  I think your example of the offset
three jaw chucked in it shows that quite well.  

Great Pictures!

Rick


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## J. Tranter

gt2ride I tore the whole thing down and cleaned it to get off the grime and dust, it had been sitting for 23 years. And painted it a silver color. I think the origanal color was a green color, but being color blind it didn't really matter.
John


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## Hexbasher

rake60 said:
			
		

> That Okuma is an impressive looking old work horse.
> 
> Those older Japanese machines are solid, rugged lathes that will take just
> about anything you can throw at them.  I think your example of the offset
> three jaw chucked in it shows that quite well.
> 
> Great Pictures!
> 
> Rick



oh i love her

i'm first to buy her when my boss eventual shuts the business down

complete....i have steady rest, follow, taper attachment, 5 3jaw chucks, 4 jaw, face plate, weird ER collet chuck with 35 or so metric collets. 

all three lathes have the same style and size of QC tool posts in the shop but i need to measure their tool height offsets and grind up some nice shims this way all the tool holders have the same offset and are uniform for all lathes. we have 25+ QC tool holders

back side of the spindle is threaded and i've made afew addapters with different sized bores to support longer work....i wouldn't mind finding a POS dividing head and making an attachment to mount it on my lathe (same thing with one of my smaller three jaw chucks)

too bad the taper attachment isn't a telescopic, and its T slots it bolts to on the lathe are occupied by the DRO's linear scale


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## gt2ride

Tranter  I had to paint it as soon as I could.  It look pretty bad.


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## J. Tranter

That looks great. I had to clean mine first the guy who had it before me turned wood on it also, so after 23 yrs of sitting with wood chips and oil it was really nasty.


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## rake60

Here's one of my earliest home lathes.




I bought it sight un-seen from a classified ad for less than $200
It was a 1940's "kit lathe" copy of an Atlas design that actually cut pretty decent.
The open belts and gears were not the safest set up, but it did serve the
purpose until I bought a new lathe.

Rick


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## BMyers

My Pratt & Whitney model B


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## macona

On Tony's site he posted some pics of of other lathe. Now retired and heading to my dads shop. I think these may be the only color pictures on Tonys site: http://www.lathes.co.uk/artisan/page5.html

I dont agree with what Tony says about the machine. I am sure it was line shaft driven (hence the clutch) and I think it was made in or before 1905. All threads are Whitworth which was gone in the US by 1906. The 10" 4 jaw is vintage to about 1905 or a bit older.

Extremely rare. Came with 10" Union 4 jaw, 6" Cushman 4 jaw, 5" Cushman 3 jaw, Steady, Faceplate, rocker tool post Drill chuck and live centers. I think I paid $400 for it off craigslist.

Pretty neat but just too slow. 600 RPM max.


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## bob ward

This is my lathe, a new 14 x 40 with DRO and QCTP. Australians will recognise it as an AL340D from Hare & Forbes. 





From the little I have had to do with lathes in the past, I recall that reading dials and changing tools seemed to take an inordinate amount of time. The DRO and QCTP are a godsend in that regard.

You can see from this shot that I have just managed to squeeze the lathe into a corner of my shed. (OK well maybe I am showing off just a little)





And so help me it looks like the image posting has worked. Good stuff!


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## rake60

Very nice lathe Bob.

But, the *"shed"* will be the envy of every member here.  :wink: 

Rick


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## wareagle

Bob,

As Rake said, very nice "barn"!  

I used to have a shop simular to this when I lived at the last house.  It was a 40'x60' metal building very simular to the one you posted.  I loved the height and size of the building, but there was only about three weeks out of the year you could stand to be out in it.  The rest of the time it was either too darn hot (we affectionalty called it the oven) or to darned cold.  To clarify, there was  about a week it was too darned cold out there, and the other times it was very hot.  Summer afternoons it could be a warm as 115 degrees, and that with all of the doors open!    :shock: 

Now, I am spoiled.  The shop I have now (20'x40') is heated and cooled.   8)   It can 110 degrees outside, and I am working away in my shop very comfortable and not even breaking a sweat.  On the coldest winter days (all of you up north will laugh at this!), it is again very comfortable out in the shop.

An added bonus is that I don't have problems with surface rust on the machines, tools, and other bare rustable stuff.


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## DICKEYBIRD

Well, here's my lil' workhorse.  It's a middle 80's era Taiwanese 8x16 lathe.  It's pretty accurate and reasonably rigid for it's size, especially after fitting an AXA clone QCTP.  Should'a done that years ago!  I mounted the QCTP directly to the carriage and only mount the compound when absolutely necessary.  Much more rigid that way.

I've also installed D.I.'s on the cross-slide, the carriage and the tailstock.  Poor man's DRO.

I'm pretty happy with it now but would like to build a taper attachment for it so I can make up some 2MT adapters for a center drill, 1/8" spot drill and a couple of commonly used tap drills.


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## Cedge

Dickey
That set up looks so comfortably familiar that I could walk in your shop and feel right at home. I'd forgotten how small the 3 inch chuck looks on one though...LOL. Nice set up. I really wish mine had the same style of cross slide table. 

Steve


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## 1Kenny

Dickeybird,

Nice setup. I need to make one of those ball cutters like yours. What is the attachment above the file handle that has the V's on each end with the knob?

Kenny


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## DICKEYBIRD

Thanks guys.  That machine changed my life forever.  I've always had power tools (table saw, grinder, drill press, etc.) but hadn't touched a lathe since metal shop in high school (1964)  A good friend bought a larger lathe and sold me this one August '04.  I almost immediately dropped (or cut WAY back on) my other hobby (designing, building & flying r/c model aircraft) and have spent all available spare time and hobby money either building from scratch, dreaming about or purchasing MORE MACHINE TOOLS!!  I love it.

That chuck is actually 100 mm or almost 4".  It's always been very accurate but I've noticed lately it runs out .003."  Must've tweaked it on one of my earlier neophyte mistakes.

I need to build another ball-turner since that one doesn't fit the lathe anymore.  Back before I got a mill, I had a little tee-slot table mounted on the carriage.  I clamped things to it for milling operations and also mounted an angle plate on it with my compound mounted vertically used as a milling adapter.  The ball-turner you see was made to fit the other table.

KKenny, the device you asked about is a "finger plate."  It's used to hold small items for drilling in a drill press.  Since this is a lathe thread, I'll post some pics in another thread,

Milton


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## deere_x475guy

Man has it been fun looking through everyones lathes and shops.  I could spend all day looking at this stuff....

Here is my current lathe.  I started out with a 7 x 10 mini and sold it to add money to get a 9 x 20.  Sold that to get money to get the 13 x 40 I have now.  I am actually planning on getting another 7 x 10 after the first of the year to do the very small parts that the higher speed will help.


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## rake60

Nice machine Bob!

I find myself thinking of buying a mini lathe again to supplement my shop.
Same as you stated, I started out small and gradually got bigger.
Spinning a 1/8" rod at 300 feet per minute would require a speed of 
9168RPM.  I'm not about to spin a 7" chuck that speed! 
Not MY 7" chuck anyway.  :lol: 

Harbor Freight has a 4 X 5" Micro Lathe listed in their current catalog.
I need to get to get to their local retail store and give it a good looking 
over to see what it could be turned into.

Rick


----------



## deere_x475guy

Thanks Rake, I just downloaded the manual for that little guy.  No mention of the taper in the tailstock that I could find.  I imagine it is a mt1.  Let me know what you think of it if you get a chance to see it first hand.


----------



## 1Kenny

I would also like to know what your thoughts on it Rake.


----------



## rake60

Well the Wife is wanting to go Christmas shopping to Altoona PA.
There's a Harbor Freight store there.
Just because I'm patient husband I'll allow her all the time she desires.
I'll stay out of her shopping frenzy ways by spending the day at 
Harbor Freight... 
Perhaps I take both the back seats out of her mini van the night before.
Just in case SHE over shops.  :wink:  :lol:  

Rick


----------



## shred

rake60 said:
			
		

> Nice machine Bob!
> 
> I find myself thinking of buying a mini lathe again to supplement my shop.
> Same as you stated, I started out small and gradually got bigger.
> Spinning a 1/8" rod at 300 feet per minute would require a speed of
> 9168RPM.  I'm not about to spin a 7" chuck that speed!
> Not MY 7" chuck anyway.  :lol:
> 
> Harbor Freight has a 4 X 5" Micro Lathe listed in their current catalog.
> I need to get to get to their local retail store and give it a good looking
> over to see what it could be turned into.
> 
> Rick



If that's the same HF microlathe I saw one day at the HF store (I go past one on my way home every day.. :shock: ) , I wasn't very impressed, though that one looks less plasticky than what I remember.  Another to check out is the Taig.. small and ~$150 for the basic kit.  The headstock is good to 10K RPM.  A 3" chuck is about as big as can fit.  http://www.cartertools.com is the place to go for those.


----------



## cfellows

shred said:
			
		

> rake60 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rick
> 
> 
> 
> Another to check out is the Taig.. small and ~$150 for the basic kit.  The headstock is good to 10K RPM.  A 3" chuck is about as big as can fit.  http://www.cartertools.com is the place to go for those.
Click to expand...


I bought a Taig brand new with most of the tooling.  Haven't used it much but it is incredibly accurate.

Chuck


----------



## cfellows

Here's a picture of my 1952 Logan 11 1/2" lathe.  I bought it in Fort Worth Texas about 15 years ago for $100.  I completely rebuilt it, including a $300 regrind of the lathe bed (OK, so the lathe has a few miles on it since the rebuild!).  

I added 1.5hp DC motor with a variac for speed control.  I also converted the flat belt headstock pulley to a 3/8" pitch timing pully.  I made the headstock pully and included a 24 hole indexer.   There is no back gear, but the DC motor provides a enough torque at low speeds that I don't really need it.

I also added a DC gear motor onto the tail end of the leadscrew so I have infinitly variable carriage feed and cross-slide feed. 

I have a new headstock for it that lets me mount the motor underneath the lathe instead of on top.  One day I'll get around to fitting the new headstock and I may add a counter shaft to allow different gear ratios in addition to the variable speed motor.










Chuck


----------



## gt2ride

This is lathe #7  it is a 6in craftsman .  I think I will just collect lathes. I use to collect JD tractors.  They got to big so I went to garden tractors. The barn is full so it is time to move to something else.  It is going to be my new hobby.


----------



## John

My Sieg C3 7x14 mini lathe. Marketed under many brand names around the world. Really amazed at the quality for price this lathe delivers. Seems very accurate. This one is marked as metric although the dials have inch markings as well, the gear set is to cut metric threads.

Have added a quick release handle on the tailstock.

John


----------



## Rog02

Here is my latest restoration. 

A Model 109-21270 Craftsman/AA/Dunlap 6"X12". I was offered this one from my great uncle's estate and since it is like the first lathe I was allowed to touch as a kid I jumped on it.

I dismantled the lathe, stripped it to bare castings and refinished. The engine turned aluminum trim was rather knackered so I made new pieces and re-assembled everything. 

After a few initial test cuts it became clear that the little lathe needed some help in the speed control department so I added a variable speed drive built from treadmill components. Treadmills can be had for free on Craiglist frequently or purchased cheaply in thrift stores (that's a Pram Shop to you Bog). I gave $20 USD for the one I utilised for this project. The mount and frame was shop built from some 2"X1"X3/16" rectangular tubing I had in the drop box and some 1/4" CRS plate from the same source. 

All in all the lathe has been a project of convenience and has taken about a year for me to get to this stage. I am in the process of tuning it right now and tooling it as nothing from my Clausing will work on this little one.


----------



## rake60

Great old lathe Roger.

It's nice to see them kept in action.
The fact that it holds family history makes it even better!

Nicely Done!

Rick


----------



## wareagle

Very nice restoration! The fact that this was your first experience with a lathe makes it very special. Thanks for sharing!!!


----------



## Spin Doctor

Well, there's a Jet 9x20 (we all know what they look like. An Elgin split bed turret lathe that I plan on using for a small wood lathe. IMO most wood lathes spindles are POS. Then I have my "project" lathe. A PM 1027 that I am going to modify substancially. New spindle with integral 5C collets, reversing dog clutch system, quick retract on the compound, electronically variable feeds and a number of other things. Right now the headstock is off and the rest of the lathe tore down for moving. A Hardinge or Monarch it ain't but then I don't think I could get a 10EE in the basement

The Elgin on moving day






The "project" lathe prior to removing the spindle


----------



## Powder keg

AAAAGGG! Put that lid back on there. I just got done making new gears for my lathe. I still loose sleep over that one. A friend made some and they lasted a few months. I figured that I could mess them up that bad and gave it a shot. Now, there not to bad to do. Now that I can fake my way through it:O)

Sounds like fun, Wes


----------



## BobWarfield

What a delightfully entertaining thread!

Here is my Lathemaster 9x30:






It has served me well and seems a cut above a lot of the complaints about Chinese lathes. I made a few changes that have really improved it for me. A QCTP and a DC treadmill motor being the most important.

I'm in the process of converting it to CNC, a project that has dragged on nearly forever and still isn't done! 

Here are a few shots of the CNC stuff. 

The Rube Goldberg panel and electronics for the lathe:






Leadscrew step motor mounted:






Cross slide is nearly ready to mount. I still have various things to fuss with to finish.

Cheers,

BW


----------



## j king

Hi Bob.Looks like your coming along with the lathe conversion. I bought a BP boss that I am going to do a pc conversion on as soon as I get time.(and knowledge!)I dont have ANY prior experience at cnc.I am always amazed at the stuff guys like you do.Cool stuff.Take care. 
                  Jim

PS. I am finishing a power draw bar that I copied off your site.Hope to have it done this week if I get a couple of things to finish it.


----------



## j king

Heck I may as well show my lathes while I'm here.

 Mine is about the same year as Macona's It is a 10 EE monarch .The other is a Monarch series 50. It is a 16x54.


----------



## cfellows

I'm speechless! 

Chuck


----------



## BobWarfield

j. king, you get my vote for home shop machinist stud of the century!

Two gorgeous Monarch lathes, but wait, there's more: 

- My all tiime favorite shop from my "Home Shop Hall of Fame" series: http://www.thewarfields.com/cnccookbook/CCHallOfFame4.html.

- The coolest little collet chuck I ever have seen. I bought a set of planetary transmission gears to make my own, but haven't gotten to it yet.

I hope you'll publish more of your work. I've never come across anything but the collet chuck so far.

Signed,

Bob "Green With Envy" Warfield


----------



## Brass_Machine

I don't know. Is it just me or is the 10EE one of the most amazing looking lathes?

I think you could put my little lathe and chuck it up in that 50 series...








Cheers
Eric


----------



## rake60

j king my 9 x 20 lathe is almost too big for many of the parts I make,
BUT I can think of a couple million home uses for one like your 16 X 54.

Now THAT is an impressive home machine tool!

My boys weren't all that happy about dragging a 400 pound lathe down to my 
basement shop. One look at that one would send them running to their Mother's
house to live!  

Rick


----------



## j king

Your too kind Bob. I have to confess that I use these machines to do work on the side.That kinda explains the sizes.I do like to build things.I made a atmospheric engine this year and gave it to my Dad.He really like it so I felt it was the right thing to do.I will make another soon.Did have some pics but they are on the broken compuer.I didnt get them copied to photobucket.I think that is the coolest engine to see run without normal fuel.I am in the rust belt so the cost of my machines were very reasonable.
 Thanks, Jim


----------



## lathe nut

14X40 HF lahte, just what I need was one more to the list, Lathe Nut


----------



## S_J_H

A small cnc lathe I built, does threading and has computer controlled spindle speed up to 4200rpm-





A 60's South Bend 9A I just somewhat restored with variable DC drive-





A very rare Artisan 11x24 gap bed lathe from the early 1900's. Has a cone clutch on the counter shaft and other neat features.





Steve


----------



## Brass_Machine

Steve

You already know I how much I like the CNC lathe you built. However, that Artisan lathe?!?!? Just blows my mind. Nice stuff.

Eric


----------



## S_J_H

Thanks Eric.
The artisan lathe is really neat. I have actually been using it now and then. You can't help but be in a good mood when running it. ;D


----------



## lorierda

Hi every one!

I'm new on the site. This is my little lathe, 7 X 12 from King Canada.


----------



## old-biker-uk

You've shown me yours so i'll show you mine.....




Myford S7




Pultra 1570

Mark


----------



## doubleboost

Cheep and cheery 
I have changed the pulley sizes to reduce spindle speeds ,changed most of the soft bolts and bearings
The lathe is capable of some nice accurate work 
















The gear driven head stock is great to use but a bit noisy
John


----------



## Jere

A micro lathe by the standards found here, but my pride and joy....

A Cowells 90CW (Clock and Watchmakers) lathe with Wheel and Pinion cutting attachment.


----------



## mogogear

Hello all- a new comer with a (pitifu) little Unimat SL1000. Really it is not pitiful, but after seeing all the great lathes here it is pretty far down the foodchain. It was a great snag off Craigslist at what I think was a cheap price and luckily for me with plenty of tooling, 3&4 jaw chucks, steadies, indexing head and power feed plus the other usual suspects. It is trying to teach me what to do- so I am doing some chip making and reading some books and reading here!!






some of the doodad's that came along with it






nite!!


----------



## BobWarfield

Just went back through all 7 pages. What a wonderful collection of photos. Got me drooling so much I had to go smoke a cigarette and take a cold shower!

I've got a hankering for a bigger lathe than my 9x30, but I've not yet found quite the right mo-chine to pull the trigger.

Cheers,

BW


----------



## DickDastardly40

Old Biker,

SNAP! ;D

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1627.0

I recall you have a BCA as well!

Al


----------



## JMe

Hello
some pictures of my lathe :





My first picture insert on this site, see result before add some more

Seems to be OK 




















It is a SHYE SHENG lathe, made in Taiwan. I buy it new 4 years ago. Factory equiped with DRO and VFD. Delivered (special order) with Bison 3 and 4 jaws. Bison collet chuck for 5C collets fitted here after receipt. Taper attachment received but not yet installed

Jacques


----------



## John S

Here's my small Sieg lathe with a new power source transplant 






.


----------



## rake60

John Stevenson  said:
			
		

> Here's my small Sieg lathe with a new power source transplant



John if you can stall that Seig with a heavy cut your REALLY taking too big of a bite!





Great picture!

Rick


----------



## David Morrow

I kept waiting for one of these to show up on Craigslist. I paid about 15% of the current new price. And the owner even delivered it. I got a ton of extras with it. The original owners invoice shows he bought it new in 1977 and it probably doesn't have more than 15-20 hours on it.


----------



## Bogstandard

David,

A very nice buy indeed. 
It is a machine that many model engineers aspire to own. A machine that has more independant 'add ons' and accessories than any other lathe in the world.

Myfords very latest top of the range, all singing, all dancing version is well over $30K here in the UK.

I have heard on the grapevine though that Myfords are in a little bit of trouble. Because their machines are aimed at a niche and very loyal market, the users are not willing to buy a more modern design of machine. They want an instantly recogniseable 'Myford'.
Myfords tried to introduce a modern range a few years ago and it was a dismal failure. But they can't go on producing such an old design of lathe, you can only upgrade it so far. A sort of catch 22 situation.

A crying shame really.

But well done on your investment.

John


----------



## Bernd

I have a question about the Myford. Why is the hand wheel on the right side of the apron? All other lathes I have seen have the hand wheel is on the left. ??? ??? ??? ???

Bernd


----------



## mklotz

Bernd  said:
			
		

> I have a question about the Myford. Why is the hand wheel on the right side of the apron? All other lathes I have seen have the hand wheel is on the left. ??? ??? ??? ???



It's because they drive on the left side of the road over there.


----------



## Bogstandard

Bernd,

Many years ago I used to own a very old Myford ML2, which I restored and modified like I did with the Atlas.

That also had the wheel on the RHS, but it wasn't instinctive. When you turned the wheel to the left, instead of going towards the head like a normal lathe, the saddle moved to the tailstock end. I quickly made an idler gearbox to reverse the direction after very nearly running the toolpost into the chuck a couple of times.
I think the right hand thing is just keeping to their own old fashioned style that had served them well for many years. People tend to stick with what they know.

Because of the lever for the half nuts being on the left hand side, it is very easy to make an auto disengage for it. No worries then about running into the chuck, if you get distracted whilst threading.

John

BTW Marv, right means right, left means WRONG.
It is all to do with the time of stagecoaches (not the wild west type), and sword arms.


----------



## David Morrow

Bogs, when I turn my wheel counter clockwise ( top to the left ) the carriage moves left. Perhaps they saw the light of day.

Now if only we could do something about that left hand driving habit of theirs...


----------



## Bogstandard

Dave,

That old ML2 is still used almost every day by a friend of mine. I will try to get a piccy of it sometime.

With regards to their driving on the left. They haven't realised yet, that if you are changing gear with your right hand, they are attempting to steer with their normally weakest arm. Methinks that is why they wander all over the road and have so many accidents. Leave 'em to it I say.

John


----------



## Bernd

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> With regards to their driving on the left. They haven't realised yet, that if you are changing gear with your right hand, they are attempting to steer with their normally weakest arm. Methinks that is why they wander all over the road and have so many accidents. Leave 'em to it I say.
> 
> John



That's why they invented the automatic shift. Only two peddles to worry about on the floor and you can keep both hands on the wheel while driving. :big:

And thanks for the explanation of the hand wheel on the Myford. Still seems odd, but what the heck if that's the way they did it then that's the way it will be. My curiosity has been satisfied.

Bernd


----------



## John S

It doesn't matter so much on smaller lathes but the standard of mounting apron handwheels on the left is bloody dangerous if you use a machine anywhere near it's limit.
You hands are directly in the stream of hot chips trowelling off the chuck.

I have both types here, the British and European have theirs on the right, out of the way and the American pattern has had to have a chip guard fitted to protect my pinkies.

I don't know the true reason but it's been around for a long while Colchester's made 2 aprons, the home model on the left and the US export model with the handwheel on the right.


----------



## Bogstandard

Very nice writeup John, it is nice to know the reason why.



> home model on the left and the US export model with the handwheel on the right


But maybe the opposite way around.

John


----------



## moconnor

David:

I am curious about the chip tray under your Myford Super 7. Is it a commercially available item? How is the overall stability of the lathe on the Kennedy workstation? I have a similar lathe and thought of using a Kennedy workstation as a base. Congratulations on your find, it looks like a fantastic lathe.

Regards, Mike


----------



## David Morrow

moconnor  said:
			
		

> David:
> 
> I am curious about the chip tray under your Myford Super 7. Is it a commercially available item? How is the overall stability of the lathe on the Kennedy workstation? I have a similar lathe and thought of using a Kennedy workstation as a base. Congratulations on your find, it looks like a fantastic lathe.
> 
> Regards, Mike



The seller had the chip tray made up. It's quite good but I also put a nice flat cookie sheet underneath which is far more convenient in that I can slide it out and dump the chips and coolant.

I didn't get the Kennedy bench with the lathe. I made my own out of 1" MDF and integrated into my existing work bench. I made it good and solid and built a large cavity underneath and dropped in two 50 Lb. bags of sand from Home Depot to add a bit of mass to the whole thing. Rock solid.


----------



## Kludge

Due to numerous requests and a few assorted threats to drive me sane, I have finally gotten pictures of my lathes. 

First, the infamous Clisby:







Note the brass "dust" on the cross slide. It really does work with the "sharp tools & light cuts" approach






And now the requisite quarter match. That's the quarter on the tailstock.






The woodworking tool rest, which will serve admirably with gravers as well, arrived after the pictures were taken but I may add one with it later. 

Now for the Peerless:






Yes, that's more brass "dust". The clip-on loupe under the bed is part of my optical enhancement set. The lenses are a smidgen over quarter sized (A quarter covers the glass but not the rim) so I decided to use it instead.






I keep the belt loose on this one when it's not in use and I usually do on the other belt-driven machines. (I should on all of them; I'm just a lot more careful with the watchmaker's equipment.) 






This and the one above it show the headstock indexing holes. The pin is just below the spindle handle. I can't remember how many holes there are so I guess I should count them. Again.






Aside from cleaning up the ways and a few other assorted necessities, it's still in "as received" condition. It may be ugly right now, but it works nicely. That's the indexing pin kind of hidden under the handle. The lever thingie locks the headstock onto the way while the big screw thingie under the bed is for tightening the cross slide in place.

Wasn't all that a lot of fun?

BEst regards,

Kludge


----------



## MadKad

This is mine, I plan doing alot of extras to it when I get time and some cash







I had the hobby one for 2 weeks and it was just way to small for me, so I went up two grades I think it was, and I love this one ;D


----------



## steamer

The 12" Logan turning gear blanks. Former trade school machine with few miles on her. Made a #2-126 tap on it for a friend of mines Model engine carb once by single point.






Dave


----------



## Kludge

MadKad  said:
			
		

> I had the hobby one for 2 weeks and it was just way to small for me, so I went up two grades I think it was, and I love this one ;D



Was that the C0? It's on the "to buy" list here. I'm well aware of the problems but the size is perfect for me and the problems are fixable.

Best regards,

Kludge


----------



## MadKad

Kludge  said:
			
		

> Was that the C0? It's on the "to buy" list here. I'm well aware of the problems but the size is perfect for me and the problems are fixable.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Kludge



yep thats the one

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=559017&name=SIEG+X2&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=44

I got all the bits for it etc also, but I make jewellery and it just didnt like being on and off most of the day, as I switched it on and turned up the speed it sometimes would work and other times it just did nothing, then it started slowing down and cutting out while I was working on it, they sent me another control board I replaced it and the same still happend, I am not fully sure but I think my self it was the bushes in the motor.

I was happy as I talked to them on the phone and they were happy to take it all back and I paid the difference for the C2A and I think it has to be the best thing I did, not any problems yet touch wood.


----------



## mikey00

Here is my modest lathe.


----------



## Kludge

MadKad  said:
			
		

> I got all the bits for it etc also, but I make jewellery and it just didnt like being on and off most of the day



The C0 has to be taken down to nothing and completely rebuilt, cleaning off burrs and other impediments to smooth its operation in the process. Quality control at the factory is spotty on a good day but these are made to be cheap and no expense is spared to achieve that goal. Properly dressed up and made mechanically pretty, it's actually not a bad machine within its capabilities. And, miracle of miracles, the factory does listen to complaints, the greatest number of which center on the tailstock alignment. The fix isn't perfect but it is a step in the right direction.

Overall, with some effort, it's not a bad machine but it's not for someone not ready to do a complete teardown and rebuild.

Best regards,

Kludge ... who strips all his machines as a matter of course.


----------



## baldrocker

Why it pays to be on friendly terms with the
local scrap merchant.
The beast that started it all
Twin bar something cant find any ID
Rescued today from the scrap muncher.
Myford not sure what model also rescued today from
the muncher still on the floor cos me back gave out.
BR


----------



## baldrocker

Oops


----------



## DickDastardly40

BR

I think the Myford on the trolley is an ML7.

Al


----------



## CrewCab

DickDastardly40  said:
			
		

> I think the Myford on the trolley is an ML7.



Yup definitely an ML7 ............... *Click Here* Many are still giving good service. 

Over here in the UK that would fetch a few hundred pounds on Eblag ... *For Instance* .... good find at a scrapyard

CC


----------



## Maryak

Below is a photo of my lathe - Made in China and is rebadged to suit the importer into whatever country eg Colchester in the UK and Hare & Forbes in Oz. Probably the only thing in Oz not made in China these days is me, I'm a pommy immigrant from age 13.

Its a 6" Eng 12" USA with 2ft, 600mm between centres came with everything,2 chucks, faceplate, steadies, centres etc. speed range 60-1800, (frightened sh 1 T out of me with the 4 jaw on!!!). What does it lack, a gap bed and a screw cutting gear box. Still when you think about it for as often as threads require machining, change wheels both metric and imperial are not too much of a hassle. :






Whilst on the subject, I have been around lathes for some 45 years now and in Issue 140 of Model Engineers Workshop was an article by the ever publishing Harold Hall covering a carriage stop. Never used one!

What the hell it's not much work so I will make one. Took under 2 hours and he was absolutely correct it is one of the most useful gizmos I have ever made and after less than a week I wonder how I had the insanity to challenge myself for accuracy all those years, when this little gem makes it Oh So Simple.

Thank you Mr Hall and MEW. :- :bow:


----------



## Bogstandard

Maryak,

You are preaching to the converted here with your saddle stop. I have used one since I started machining more than a couple of weeks ago. I do tend to make the rotatable type with at least three stop screws.
We went thru all this a couple of months ago on here, and its seems that there are some that just don't believe in them and struggle on regardless. Their loss.

Nice lathe BTW, I wish I had stayed with my old change gear one now, more versatile.

John


----------



## baldrocker

Thanks Al and CC now to find a manual sure to be something on the net.
Regards
BR


----------



## CrewCab

baldrocker  said:
			
		

> now to find a manual



Paul, 

If you join *This Yahoo Group* they have loads of manuals, parts diagrams and other useful info available for download in the files section.

CC


----------



## baldrocker

Great
Thanks mate
BR


----------



## Maryak

John,(B/s

Thanks for your comments on my lathe.

Not sure what you mean, (translation-from English to Strine-"haven't got a clue"), about your saddle stop, wouldn't have a piccy by any chance?

Bob


----------



## Bogstandard

Bob,

No need for translations, here is a piccy. This is my old lathe, now gone to a new home.
If you have a multi head one, for production work, you can use slip guages to set up your spacings between the length of each screwed stop, and it is then just a matter of rotating to get to your new cutting length.


John


----------



## Maryak

Thanks again John,

Its true a picture's worth a 1000 words and truly clever things are often the simple ones, which get overlooked.

My book is calling me, its a Dale Brown Dreamland series about cutting edge USAF technology, fact or fiction I'm not sure but it's a damn good read.

Maybe able to use my little engine on one of the robot planes :


----------



## John S

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> I wish I had stayed with my old change gear one now, more versatile.
> 
> John



John,
Although all my current lathes except to C0 and the CNC have gearboxes I do have to revert to special trains on the CVA to get certain pitches.

When I owned a ML7 I always wished for a screwcutting box but they were just too expensive, eventually I managed to get a clunker of a S/H lathe with one on and swapped it over.
It then cost me a shed full of money to get the metric transposing set, only problem with this was it took longer to swap between imperial and metric than just using straight gears :-\

In hindsight I wish I had stayed with the change gear model and saved all the hassle and money.

I'm very fortunate at the moment as the big TOS can do imperial and metric in the same box but the small TOS and CVA are a pain to change over. The small TOS was bought as an all metric lathe and the CVA is imperial so it's quicker to choose lathes than change over.

If and when I'm forced to downsize I need a lathe that can cut all pitches, the CVA can but it's a heavy brute at close to 1- 1/2 tonnes and needs a decent power supply.
.


----------



## baldrocker

CrewCab
Thanks for that steer to theMyford group.
Wealth of info there.
BR


----------



## itowbig

heres mine i love it


----------



## Paula

Just noticed this thread -- there are some really neat machines in here! 

I will agree with the others that the Monarch is the King of Lathes...






Anyway, here is my recently-restored South Bend 9A:






I use the term 'restored' rather loosely, because it had really seen very little use since its manufcture in 1946, and didn't need much more than cosmetic enhancement. Even so, with the custom-designed bench, it took me nearly a year to complete the job. The frame for the bench was welded up by a local fab shop, though I did all the assembly and painting. The drawers are heavy-duty commercial units with double-extension ball slides. The drawer bottoms are lined with rubberized cork:






Everyone here seems to like videos, so here is one where I used the lathe to face the top of a vise for my shaper, and it just about tests the lathe's swing capability to the max (Note: the squeaking is from a new V-belt):





It did a nice job:






Paula


----------



## Maryak

Paula,

That is one very nice piece of machinery. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## rake60

That's not a lathe Paula, it's a piece of fine vintage furniture.

Beautiful work on the restoration! :bow:

I've never owned one, but I AM a big fan of the older South Bend lathes.
A friend of mine owns one and I've had a few opportunities to play with it.
It can actually take a roughing cut without complaining.

Rick


----------



## ksouers

Paula,
That's a beautiful machine. Almost seems a pity to dirty it up with oil and chips :bow:

Kevin


----------



## Bernd

And speaking of chips. I didn't see any falling anywere on that lathe during the video.  ???

Nice lathe by the way. 

Bernd


----------



## Cedge

Paula
Beautiful job on the little South Bend. I looked at a 9A precision cabinet mounted version, circa 1961, last week and walked away. The gear train sounded like it was chewing on marbles. At $500.00 it might could have been a bargain.... at the $1000.00 asking price, it wasn't. The search goes on.

Steve


----------



## Paula

Thanks, all -- it is a wonderful lathe for the home shop.



			
				Bernd  said:
			
		

> ...speaking of chips, I didn't see any falling anywere on that lathe during the video.  ???



The vise jaws are cast iron, so the lathe is making those filthy little carbonaceous(?) critters, that get stuck in all the wrong places.  (Check the last picture.) When working with cast iron, I seem to spend about as much time cleaning up as I do machining. :-\

Paula


----------



## Tin Falcon

Beautiful lathe Paula. I have a 1937 South Bend 9" floor model but not as pretty. It came from a University so mechanically it is in good shape. I am the second owner. 





Tin


----------



## lathe nut

Will post pic of the rest of them later, just got this one at an Estate sale, paid $ 100.00


----------



## lathe nut

Yard sale 109, real cheap


----------



## lathe nut

South Bend, 25-A built in 1925, 9" Swing, just got it home, its now on the shop floor trying to get adjusted to the home with several lathes, I think they like him, Lathe Nut


----------



## baldrocker

lathe nut
Just hope the other lathes give him the respect due
to the old feller.
BR


----------



## Powder keg

I think that is a 9" Junior you have there? I have one just like it;o) Mine is 48" between centers.

Wes


----------



## BobWarfield

I just got a new puppy. Does your new lathe howl all night for attention, or does it go to bed when it's time?


----------



## Plushy

Hi to Everyone , 
           I am new here and thought i would start by showing you all my Little Lathe . 





It is a WARD 3DS Capstan Lathe which i recently bought from a Valve manufacturer that shut down it also came with these chucks 








and all these tools 








 I am still cleaning all the brass swarf out of her so i will post up new photos once she is clean ;D

cheers James


----------



## lathe nut

BobWarfield , he will get the respect, hope to get my shop added on to with the AC before spring and a restore will happen to him.
Powder keg, I am in need of a few parts for it, like the thread dial few others but I will be looking, let's see a pic of yours, Lathe Nut


----------



## rake60

Welcome to HMEM James!

That lathe looks bullet proof.
Keep us posted on the progress.

Rick


----------



## Maryak

James,

Welcome to our forum 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## lathe nut

I bought this one today, $ 300.00 It was under power, just well oiled, its a Sebastien, quick change box, 20 inch swing, 13 foot bed, not able to get it home yard to wet, got it in a friends shop close where I bought the late, James, I like that little chunky late, wonder what the out come would be if we mate them ????????, my wife was proud of me, "Another Late", her Christmas present, right, Merry Christmas all, Late Nut


----------



## Kludge

Do we dare ask what you intend to turn with a 13' bed? Heck, you could turn driveshafts with that puppy!

Best regards,

Kludge


----------



## joeby

Round stuff :big:

 Sorry, Kludge!

Merry Christmas all!

Kevin


----------



## Plushy

Thanks for the Welcome Rick,Bob and Lathe nut . This looks like a great place to learn things . 

Lathe nut it would be interesting to cross breed the Ward and Sebastian . 

my Ward lathe is run by a Two speed 415V three phase motor its has twelve gears it also has power feed and will cut metric and imperial threads Swing over bed is 14.5 inches and between centres is 27.5 inches . i would like to get a original power bar feed for it but i have yet to find one . I cant get Three phase 415 v where i am so i will be changing the motor for a single speed 240/415v motor so i can run it using a VSD/VFD . I will also try fitting a DRO to it at some stage .

cheers James


----------



## lathe nut

I don't even know what I am going to turn, I always wanted a large lathe, never thought I would get one of this size, I did find out tonight that the fellow that ran if for 40 years said that it came from Houma Louisiana, he said that it made parts he thought for the Higgins boats, it does have the brass tag "Meets War Standard Production" on, I ran it through all the gear, will go down to 15 RPM'S and I think the high is 660, just got to get the thread dial, going to get some on cutting that dude, soon as it get dry going to haul it, will post the pic's of that, take care all, got to go Santa at the door, Lathe Nut


----------



## Kludge

joeby  said:
			
		

> Round stuff :big:
> 
> Sorry, Kludge!



Ya think? 

Kevin, if I couldn't take what I dish out, I'm on the wrong forum. 

Lathe Nut: If it was used at Higgins then they may well have been turning prop shafts with it. Higgins made PT boats during the war (Some sources claim the made the best ones.) so you may well have a piece of history on your hands. 

BEst regards,

Kludge


----------



## joeby

I was always reminded that you can make small stuff on a big lathe; but you can't make big stuff on a small lathe. True to a point I'd say. It can be rather clumsy to make little parts on a machine that size; but you could make 4-40 screws out of 6" stock all day if you'd like.

 Learnin' experience ahead though. That chuck will seem to be flyin' at 660 RPM! 

Kevin


----------



## lane

Here is my Acer and South Bend


----------



## John S

Plushy / James.

Those chucks are Taylor chucks with inclined scrolls so they reach further out as they open.
good chucks, very expensive and usually very accurate.
Used to have one on a real old beat up Harrison L6 but the chuck was repeatable to a thou, pity the machine wasn't.

John_S.


----------



## Maryak

John,

If memory serves me right Dean Smith and Grace used that type of chuck and IMHO they were great lathes.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## lathe nut

Kevin nice lathes, real nice, Kludge, that is right the Higgins were built in the New Orleans area, down here we still use shallow water boats, it was said that the fellow went to the Army, Navy and said that they did not know how to make a light shallow water boat, guess he was right, there was at that shop a Niles lathe, 48" chuck with a 50 foot bed, taper attachment the length of the bed, said it was used to make canon barrels for battle ships.
  any who I was in the shop to day, took a picture of the two 7X10 HF lathes. one I have had bought in 1997 and the other a few months ago at a yard sale got it 25 dollars, notice the red cover and had to change out the printed board, I leave the four jaw chuck on it, the fellow I bought it from had got if from someone else with a lot of tooling he said parts were not available, forgot to tell him there were, my gain, Lathe Nut


----------



## Richard_S

Good evening fellas,
I've been lurking round here for a while and not bothered to register, but happened across this thread and just spent the better part of 3 hours drooling and taking notes.
Here are some photos of my lathes:
The Portass Dreadnought was bought by my grandfather, new in 1946. It's a 'PD5' and not as heavy as the older model which was actually a nicer lathe. I cut my teeth with machine building stationary steam engines aged around 10 and went down hill from there - just ask my wife!

No. 2 is a Halifax, a British licence made version of the Atlas, a nice lathe and in good mechanical condition except for some deliberate vandalism to the handwheels.

No. 3 is a Smart & Brown Sabel. A British built slightly modified Southbend9A. It has an enlarged spindle and was built to a generally higher quality than the original SB. 

No. 4 is my personal pride and joy. A Smart & Brown 1024 - just manages 11" over the bed and 24 between ctrs. A three speed pole switching motor and 2 speed gearbox plus backgear gives 12 spindle speeds. Dual reading metic and Imperial dials with Imperial threads in the quick change box. I have a full set of change wheels for metric threads and DP gear cutting, collets, two steadies and added a QCTP after the photo was taken. 
It weighs around 22cwt (2500lbs) and is in the Monarch/CVA/Weiler toolroom bracket and came from a pharmaceutical company research workshop where it only ever cut perspex(lexan) and alloy so it's almost unworn. I love it!

Rgds to all
Richard


----------



## lathe nut

Richard, glad you here, these fellow are good and know how to share, so let's be the dry sponge and soak up all we can, very good looking lathes, I love them all but guess the lathe on is the pride and joy, glad to see you with so many make me feel a little better know that someone has several lathes, I have 8 and if the price is right there will be more, will need to stop getting them and make something on them, hope you enjoy here as much as I do, Lathe Nut


----------



## Maryak

Richard S,

Welcome to our forum 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Plushy

John Stevenson  said:
			
		

> Plushy / James.
> 
> Those chucks are Taylor chucks with inclined scrolls so they reach further out as they open.
> good chucks, very expensive and usually very accurate.
> Used to have one on a real old beat up Harrison L6 but the chuck was repeatable to a thou, pity the machine wasn't.
> 
> John_S.



John thanks for the heads up on the chucks would they be marked anywhere that they are taylor chucks ? 

Bob just noticed your an aussie so any time your over in Vic drop in for a Stubbie and a chat .

cheers James


----------



## Richard_S

Richard, glad you here, these fellow are good and know how to share, so let's be the dry sponge and soak up all we can, very good looking lathes, I love them all but guess the lathe on is the pride and joy, glad to see you with so many make me feel a little better know that someone has several lathes, I have 8 and if the price is right there will be more, will need to stop getting them and make something on them, hope you enjoy here as much as I do, Lathe Nut
[/quote]

Thanks for the warm welcome Lathenut,
As you say, the old Portass isn't the best I have and certainly not the most valuable, but it is the one that is nearest my heart and absolutely not tradeable. Call me a sentimentalist and I'd have to agree - but you could call me worse ;-)

I ran out or attachment space in the previous post, but have to admit to this as well. Might cheer a few of you blokes the other side of the pond. 
This AV Carroll is in need of a fair bit of TLC - the bed is badly worn - but it's a beast! Approx 15" swing x 55" ish BCtrs.Obviously originally with overhead flatbelt shafting drive, it has been mod'd with a 4sp+rev gearbox from a 1920's Crossley motorcar. Probably the box is worth more than the lathe to the right guy. It's a background project, and whilst I had thought of scrapping it, I really can't do that to something like this, that's outright vandalism - the domestic management despairs......

Rgds Richard


----------



## gt2ride

Richard  Nice collection. I have been told with the right tool you can make any thing you want. 
  I still can not make what I want so I keep on buying tools. I am up to 11 lathes but one of them is
  a wood lathe. I hope that counts. There is also a Boxford lathe in my collection which you might like. 
  my collection is on page one reply 12
  gt2ride


----------



## BillH

Here are my lathes
Lathemaster 8x14 with 5c collet chuck




And the Taig


----------



## Maryak

Plushy  said:
			
		

> Bob just noticed your an aussie so any time your over in Vic drop in for a Stubbie and a chat .
> 
> cheers James



Thanks James, 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




We are off too Qld, (Harvey Bay), in April for my 50th Anniversary Reunion of joining the RAN. Plan to make a real deal of it and spend some time in Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne, on our way home. At this stage we plan on driving 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 so we can stop where and when we, (SWMDBO), want.

Our schedule will be governed to some extent by the progress and inspection requirements of our new house.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## zig 2007

ive been roaming around this site for a while and felt compeled to add my lathe to the collection. it is a 1940-50s demco lathe (hercus copy) it has a single phase 2hp motor and a flat belt for drive. still needs work should make a good a project.












the guy who sold it to me didnt have the change gears so im stuck with really fast power feed




ps: if any one has a similar lathe and is wiling to sell parts im very interested


----------



## Kermit

WOW Zig!

Are you sure thats a 1940's machine? Sure looks like it is ALOT older than that.

1904 maybe? That would sure be closer to how it looks, with the drive "cone" and the leather belt with over head attachment.

I'm a newbie dummy though, so what the freak do I know! 

Impressive that it is working none-the-less, 
Kermit


----------



## Stan

I never heard of Demco, but if Demco is clone of Hercus and Hercus is a clone of Boxford and Boxford is a clone of South Bend, where does that place the Chinese clones?


----------



## lathe nut

Zig, that toooooooooooooooooooooooooooooool cool, love it, Lathe Nut


----------



## BMyers

My Pratt and Whitney Model B
someday I will upload a pic of my SB 9" Jr.


----------



## Maryak

BM,

That's a serious piece of machinery. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## joeby

BMyers,

 Take the hobby seriously? ;D
Nice lathe though, I was after one a couple years ago; but the price was out of line, I thought.

 Lots of nice machinery pics on here guys, keep it up.

 By the way, as far as Pratt & Whitney goes, here's mine as taken two years ago.





Kevin


----------



## BMyers

joeby,
the price was right. It sure will chew steel. Nice old P&W you have


----------



## mogogear

Well after just 6 months with my little Unimat... she moved on.. some of the accessories are headed to live the good life in Hawaii with Kludge!! Don't forget the sunscreen guys!! Mahalo :-*

 I found a nice little Atlas 618 tooled out pretty well. She is awaiting a new linkbelt and a banjo bracket and crossslide knob - all of which are in transit and I am soon to be moving on to my "intermediate " lathe learing!! This saved me from going the Chinese lathe route and then spending much more on the tooling....Look out chips !--here I come


----------



## Kludge

mogogear  said:
			
		

> some of the accessories are headed to live the good life in Hawaii with Kludge!! Don't forget the sunscreen guys!! Mahalo :-*



I do hope machine oil will be a good substitute. 



> I found a nice little Atlas 618 tooled out pretty well.



Sweet! You're also ready to do some horizontal milling as well. I tend to like horizontal milling better but I have other peculiarities as well so this should come as no surprise.

(Okay, guys, quit smirking!)



> I am soon to be moving on to my "intermediate " lathe learing!!



Yes, lathe learing is an important part of the process, one through which we all must pass at some point or another. When the smell of machine oil outweighs even the most alluring perfume, you have passed the first major milestone. :big: :big: :big:

Best regards,

Kludge


----------



## shred

Sweet.. I have a very similar 6" Atlas/Craftsman, though somebody long ago managed to convert it to a cabinet under-drive.

Somebody will be along shortly about that chuck key though...


----------



## NickG

Some fantastic machines there!

I started off with my grandads Myford ML7, when I was young and stupid I thought it was too small to do the project I was about to start on, so stupidly sold it for peanuts and bought a Portass Dreadnaught and a Dore Westbury Milling machine with the proceeds. 

However, these turned out to be not brilliant so I recently sold those and bought a Harrison L5 which is superb and a chinese milling machine the same as the Chester Century seen here: http://www.chesteruk.net/store/century_vs_mill.htm. I have only used the milling machine for trivial stuff so far and it seems ok, as long as you lock the spindle, there seems to be some play in there somewhere. The geared / variable speed head make it quite noisy too but it does have a lot of torque. Paid much less than chester want for theirs, got it for £600 from a company on ebay.

Will get some pics up soon.

Oh, I also have a Centec 2A horizontal milling machine which is a great machine. I was originally looking for a vertical head but they were always a fortune. I sould have kept the Dore Westbury as you can adapt the heads from those to fit the centec. But now I have the larger vertical which is more versitile, it will never get used much. A fellow model engineer suggested just setting it up with a large slitting saw to cut things off accurately and put slots in things but think it may be wasted just on that. I might sell it (they go for good money) and use some of the money to buy a metal cutting band saw. A lot of time is taken up sawing stock!


----------



## mogogear

shred  said:
			
		

> Sweet.. I have a very similar 6" Atlas/Craftsman, though somebody long ago managed to convert it to a cabinet under-drive.
> 
> Somebody will be along shortly about that chuck key though...



I am new but not that new--- she is not even wired to be plugged in yet...I did not mean to display a demo on "how to be shot in the chest by chuck key" scenario...Point well taken and understood!! :-[


----------



## Holescreek

Here's my 1953 Cincinatti Traytop 12.5" X 18". It is a very stout lathe for its limited length. I also have my grandfather's original 10" Atlas that I rebuilt a couple of years ago and have never used. The Atlas has everything in the way of accessories, but no taper attachment. The last two photos are of an original Hardinge Cataract I am rebuilding in my spare time. I have everything ready for paint, just can't decide on a color. Maybe fire engine red? -Mike


----------



## Kludge

Holescreek  said:
			
		

> The last two photos are of an original Hardinge Cataract I am rebuilding in my spare time. I have everything ready for paint, just can't decide on a color. Maybe fire engine red? -



First off, welcome to HMEM. We're friendly. Mostly. That guy in Hawaii can be an irritation at times though.

Please tell us more about the Hardinge Cataract. The WW type bed caught my attention so I read a little on them at my favorite UK lathe site but it doesn't say half enough. Things like 7" or 9", when was it made, what kind of shape was it in when you got it, was anything missing or unusable, how long have you been working on it, what you'll be using to turn it, and so on would be ever so nice. 

Fire Engine Red ... would look a bit like a tool room tart, I'd think. A very sedate black wrinkle (used by Derbyshire on some of their machines) or maybe maroon ... something with a touch of elegance, y'know. ;D

Best regards and, again, welcome to the forum,

Kludge


----------



## DickDastardly40

Holescreek  said:
			
		

> just can't decide on a color. Maybe fire engine red?



Saw a Monarch 10EE on Practical Machinist this week painted Orange, looked mighty fine! A refreshing change from grey, black or hammerite blue.

Nice work on your lathes, wish I had your application!


----------



## baldrocker

Welcome
Gotta go with Kludge this time.
Saw an ML7 on Ebay recently painted RED, Oh dear not a
good look.
That black one looks great maybe a repeat?
BR


----------



## Holescreek

I found the Cataract locally on Craigslist. It looked like it had been sitting in a barn for the last several decades. Most of the knobs and handles were broken off and just needed the usual TLC. The project has been sidelined through the summer, I have everything taped off for paint. I have seen one of these painted purple! I need this lathe like a hole in the head. I already have the Atlas taking up valuable space. I have a soft spot for old machinery that still has so much potential.

















Kluge, I was stationed in HI at Kaneohe MCAS from '78-81. I still don't want to go back, much to my wife's dismay. Too much paradise at a young age! 
Yes Macona's Monarch lathe is very impressive in red, you should see the early hi-res photos in the archives after he first painted it. I don't know why, but after working on grey nachines for over 25 years I think they should be as fun to look at as they are to run. -Mike


----------



## Brian Rupnow

This is my 10" x 18" lathe from Busy Bee in Canada. It is a #B2227L and is made in China. Overall I am quite happy with this lathe, and it serves very well for what I do with it. I am slightly ashamed of how dirty it looks compared to some of the lathe pictures I see displayed on this thread. I clean up the swarf and give it a wipe down occasionally, but it is far from some of the show peices on here.---Brian


----------



## artrans

Brian two questions I never saw a lathe with the spindle hand wheel by the tail stock is that a combo machine I see you have the carrage hand wheel and the lead screw has one also rubber hammer I like that idea I can hit myself in the head when I screw up what do you use yours for. :big: :big:


----------



## Brian Rupnow

Artrans--I'm not terribly sure what you mean, but--if I turn the handwheel on the apron of the cross slide, it moves the entirecarriage left or right---it has a pinion which engages a rack attached to the front of the lathe. If I flip up the handle with the yellow end on it , just to the right of the handwheel, that engages the half nuts. When the half nuts are engaged, I can not use that handwheel to move the carriage right or left, but I can manually turn the handwheel at the right hand end of the lead screw to turn the leadscrew and thus move the carriage along. There is another handle with a yellow end on it, just to the right of the red on/off button that engages the power feed to the leadscrew. (You can see a line of brass filings setting on top of the rack, just in behind the leadscrew) The rubber hammer is used when I change chucks.


----------



## Mike N

Does this lathe have power feed on the carriage?


----------



## artrans

brian the hand wheel to the far right attached to the screw I never saw a hand wheel there.
right below that is your drill chuck key


----------



## Brian Rupnow

Mike N  said:
			
		

> Does this lathe have power feed on the carriage?



_There is another handle with a yellow end on it, just to the right of the red on/off button that engages the power feed to the leadscrew._


----------



## Bluechip

Artrans

Myfords have 'em too ..






All Posh people have 'em  

Dave


----------



## wespe

Here's my lathe, sitting in the former owner's workshop. Just making a quick repair to the gearbox (maybe done tonight), and should be good to go. That, combined with the wood stove just installed in my workshop (don't know about you Brian, but it just keeps snowing here in Hamilton), will let me give it a good workout soon.






FYI, it's a Logan Model 821. 10" swing, 31" bed.


----------



## Kludge

Holescreek  said:
			
		

> I found the Cataract locally on Craigslist.... I need this lathe like a hole in the head. I already have the Atlas taking up valuable space. I have a soft spot for old machinery that still has so much potential.



That feeling is well known here in HMEM. Quite a few machines here have been resurrected from the dead to go onto live healthy, happy & productive lives. Due to space considerations I can't get anything with the bed length this has but it's the right idea as to type. Nice and basic with no bells & whistles, just like the typical watchmaker's lathe. 

Of course, if I were to follow through with the watchmaker's lathe comparison, then I'd think it should be given a very heavy nickel or chrome plate finish. 



> Kluge, I was stationed in HI at Kaneohe MCAS from '78-81. I still don't want to go back, much to my wife's dismay. Too much paradise at a young age!



There've been a few changes. Barbers Point NAS is closed (1999) and the VP squadrons fly out of Kaneohe now, still with the Orions but soon to upgrade to Poseidons. The ANG is still flying F-15s but will get F-22s in the next year or two, and the AF is flying C-141s (or are they C-5As?) and the occasional tanker. 

The Corps practices amphibious landings at Bellows (now closed ... kind of); the state government is still just as messed up if not more so; you can once again get anything you want on Hotel St, you just have to look harder; we still love the 'Bows (It's an act of treason not to. ); no one knows which direction North is; and 'da kine' is still a noun, verb and adjective. Maybe adverb too, I'm not sure.

I moved here in 2000 from PA completely blind. I'd never been here before but I was told it's both senior and veteran friendly ... both of which have since gone downhill due to budget problems. My residence now is a tiny studio on the Waianae (Leeward) Coast inside the tsunami zone but with direct access to the ocean.
As to too much paradise ... I'm pretty sure the statute of limitations has run out by now. :big:

Best regards,

KLudge


----------



## Holescreek

Brian, That would make a great lathe for conversion to CNC! Relpace the leadscrew handwheel with a stepper...

wespe, I didn't see what the model number was at first but I had it pegged for an 820. I resurrected one a few years ago and used it up until I got the Traytop. It is a great machine for it's size class. I think I still have drawings and parts lists for it.



> we still love the 'Bows (It's an act of treason not to.


Kludge, I don't remember (if I knew) what that means! I do miss the scuba diving. 

-Mike


----------



## artrans

thats a cool feature also i love myford lathes. and a monache 10ee are two of my dream machines I would love to own one day


----------



## putputman

I am still curious about that handwheel on the end of the screw. I have never seen it before either. Now I have seen it on two lathes. 

Brian has explained how it works. I still am confused as when you would use that feature as opposed to using the handwheel on the carriage itself. Does it work better for certain operations? ??? ???


----------



## Brian Rupnow

The handwheel on the face of the compound rest gives a very rapid movement of the compound rest, but is not used as a "feed" feature for cutting. It is basically used to rapidly reposition the compound rest, thats all. When the half nuts are engaged, the handwheel which you are curious about is used to turn the leadscrew and give a slow, manually controlled feed to the compound rest.


----------



## jim_geib

Here is my lathe, it is a Smithy 1220XL. I have converted it to cnc but with the MPG's I can use it as a manual at any time. I have as much fun changing the lathe as I do makin engines. The lathe/mill now has ball screws on all three axis and linear bearings on the x-y/z ways.


----------



## mogogear

artrans  said:
			
		

> brian the hand wheel to the far right attached to the screw I never saw a hand wheel there.
> right below that is your drill chuck key



I follow what you are aiming at -- In the picture - just below the wheel on the tail stock is a wheel on the farthest right hand extreme of the lead screw... 

No yellow handle on the wheel - just plain like the TS wheel. 

That is the wheel he is wondering why / or what it does... AM I right there Airtrans?


----------



## Bluechip

Hi Folks & mogogear

Another version, much as Brian said ...

I use it for [ say] cutting a reduced diameter on a shaft. eg Stock 3/4" reduce to 1/2" for 1".

I can use the topslide, [ compound slide to some, I believe ], but it may not be set to cut parallel to lathe axis.

So:

Put S/C gearbox to neutral.
Wind carriage to job with handwheel, [ one on apron ]
Put some cut on
Engage Half Nuts
Advance by Leadscrew Handwheel to touch barstock.
Note reading on L/S Handwheel [graduated 0 - 125 .. 8 TPI Leadscrew ]
Wind along 8 full turns.
Now have 1" reduced to whatever cut I put on.
Repeat until down to 1/2".

Just more precise than the apron traverse, which I use more often I must admit.
There if I want it. I don't think a lathe minus the facility is at any great disadvantage.

Also used when using Milling Slide on lathe.

Takes longer to describe than to do..

Dave ...


----------



## Paula

Bluechip  said:
			
		

> All Posh people have 'em



Indeed we do, Dave! ;D (or, at least, I _did_ :'()

I added one to my South Bend 10K years ago. The picture's not too clear, but you can see it over at the right end:







It had a graduated collar on it (zero-resettable), so it could be used for precise longitudinal movements, particularly where the dial indicator didn't have enough travel. To use it, you had to disengage the right gear tumbler lever (to decouple the leadscrew from the spindle gears), and engage the half-nuts. 

I didn't use it all that much (I no longer have the lathe), though it was great to have when needed. A drawback is that, since the leadscrew is 8 TPI, the wheel had .125" per revolution (rather than the more useful .100"/rev.)

Paula

Edit: Here's a closer view of the handwheel:


----------



## Bluechip

Hi Paula & Folks

A Re-settable index would be better, the Myford is a one-piece item. I put the L/S handwheel to the zero, then I just use the topslide to contact the bar end. 

Another drawback is to leave an oilcan under the handle. As the L/S handle rotates, it puts hideous downward force on the oilcan, which then departs this life with a God-awful bang 

How do I know that ???

Dave


----------



## artrans

MOGOGEAR you are right I like that feature ain't that the way always like what you don't have  anyway it looks good


----------



## artrans

well this is the first time trying to post a video this is the hf micro lathe i picked up on sale
I think its pretty cool I am cutting alum scrap it works really well I think it would be good for small items like valves and valve guides let me what you think of the machine and of the video thanks art [youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arO0LGjxH1E[/youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arO0LGjxH1E


----------



## Maryak

Art,

Nice machine and good video. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## malcolmt

Hi Art

That's a sieg CO i believe ?
I have one also, have you made any adjustments to it yet ?
How's the tailstock alignment ?
Mine was atrocious but with some fettling they can produce surprisingly accurate work.
The CO lathe groups are helpful in that respect.

Kind regards

Malcolm


----------



## JackF

Hi All,
  Jack again. This is the lathe I have owned for about 2 years. It is a Grizzly 0554 and I bought it from a re-po depot complete with all the standard acc. + the Acurite 2 axis DRO and the q/c tool post for $3000. It looked like it had very little use and the only chips I found were brass and nylon. am very pleased with it's performance but the chinese motor gave up the ghost after about 1 year. I had a US 3hp replacement motor that is working fine.


----------



## Foozer

Once had a boss who claimed its not the tools that make the results but the mechanic who uses the tool to achieve the results. I dont think he ever tried to work with this little lathe, or perhaps his overly shinning dome was the result of such endeavors.

Its a Craftsman 109 sleeve bearing model from many decades ago. Used within limits (have already bent two spindles) and a bit of regular alignment checking it at least gets me away from those never ending, all so important, cant we just talk conversations, the Bride keeps mumbling about.






Majority of setup ideas were obtained from this site, worst habit is leaving the chuck key (which is black) on the stool (which is also black) and after the 10 minute hunt for where the heck is that thing goes by, its another hit in the head to put it on the rack where it belongs. But then exactly what fun is an orginized mind anyway.


----------



## Kludge

Foozer  said:
			
		

> Its a Craftsman 109 sleeve bearing model from many decades ago. Used within limits (have already bent two spindles) and a bit of regular alignment checking it at least gets me away from those never ending, all so important, cant we just talk conversations, the Bride keeps mumbling about.



And another reason to find a bride who actually approves of (and even knows her way around) a shop - none of _those_ conversations. The 109 is one of several lathes I'm looking at - pretty much a generic search for a 6" lathe including the problematic 109.

Your setup is lovely - neat & orderly (which is actually somewhat disturbing since there are neither swarf nor chips showing) and nicely *shudder* organized. Of course, organization is a sign of a diseased mind which makes you fit in here nicely. 

Best regards,

kludge


----------



## Stuart B

Here is my new toy... My first lathe, a 1963 Chipmaster.
Acquired from a local engineering shop, 5 minutes down the road. It has been in storage for the last couple of years. It was used by the late owner of the shop for Model Engineering. The paintwork is a bit untidy, but mechanically it is in good order. I have seen it running on 3 Phase, and now I am waiting for a tame Electrician to put in a new supply for a VFD, so I can start cutting chips.
The photo is "as delivered". within 5 minutes of it hitting my shop floor, so it is pretty dirty. 

Stuart


----------



## tup48

These are my lathes. I started out with a 7X12 mini-lathe for about two years and was lucky to fine a old SB last year. The SB is a 1929 11"swing 36" between centers. It is just like me (slow but usually gets the job done). 

Richard


----------



## Kludge

Stuart B  said:
			
		

> The photo is "as delivered". within 5 minutes of it hitting my shop floor, so it is pretty dirty.



But ... but ... but ... it has character! It has a presence! It has attitude! Why are people so fast to make their toys pretty when they mess up those very important factors? *sigh* ... It's madness, I tell you! Madness!

Have fun with it, Stuart ... not that there's any possible way you won't.

BEst regards,

Kludge


----------



## lathe nut

I want to show another one, if my wife will let me get it, went and looked at one today, Lodge and Shipley, 16" swing with about 10 bed, had the tapper attachment, steady rest and all the tooling, on three phase, has not been run in a few years the lady said, hit the switch and run perfect, offered her $200.00, blank stare, don't really need it but would like to have it, then loading it would be something by my lonesome, might work out, just what I need another lathe, it loves me I can tell, Love at first sight, if we make a deal with post the pic's of where it sleeps, Lathe nut


----------



## steamer

OOOOOOOH 16"L&S! getitgetitgetitgetitgetit!!!!!

 ;D

Dave


----------



## rklopp

Stuart B  said:
			
		

> Here is my new toy... My first lathe, a 1963 Chipmaster.
> Acquired from a local engineering shop, 5 minutes down the road. It has been in storage for the last couple of years. It was used by the late owner of the shop for Model Engineering. The paintwork is a bit untidy, but mechanically it is in good order. I have seen it running on 3 Phase, and now I am waiting for a tame Electrician to put in a new supply for a VFD, so I can start cutting chips.
> The photo is "as delivered". within 5 minutes of it hitting my shop floor, so it is pretty dirty.
> 
> Stuart


What's the serial number on your Chippie? Mine's G2944, also 1963 vintage. Mine does not have the dual micrometer dials. Mine's been repainted and the bare iron surfaces were ground, so it looks neater.


----------



## Foozer

Kludge  said:
			
		

> And another reason to find a bride who actually approves of (and even knows her way around) a shop - none of _those_ conversations. The 109 is one of several lathes I'm looking at - pretty much a generic search for a 6" lathe including the problematic 109.
> 
> Your setup is lovely - neat & orderly (which is actually somewhat disturbing since there are neither swarf nor chips showing) and nicely *shudder* organized. Of course, organization is a sign of a diseased mind which makes you fit in here nicely.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> kludge



Not so neat to the eye of the Bride






But to me its all part of paradise. Have to yard it all back to the little cubby holes to make room for the kids suspension rework. He buys the propane to heat the place and I give directions. Current aray of perfectly placed items are for the motor change over from the "hate swapping belts" to a variable speed DC job for the little 109.


----------



## Maryak

Funny but I seem to have heaps of those - difference is mine are better hidden and quite often it takes several attempts to convince one to give up its' secrets. : :

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Stuart B

rklopp  said:
			
		

> What's the serial number on your Chippie?&#160; Mine's G2944, also 1963 vintage.&#160; Mine does not have the dual micrometer dials.&#160; Mine's been repainted and the bare iron surfaces were ground, so it looks neater.



G2817.&#160; It is missing the original splash guard, but the guys who I bought it from are making me a sheet steel one FOC. I also need to find a faceplate.


----------



## Kludge

Foozer  said:
			
		

> Not so neat to the eye of the Bride



Neither of my previous two had any appreciation for the finer things either. That's why one of the rules for the kind of search for #3 is to accept that the shop is an essential part of the apartment. 



> But to me its all part of paradise. Have to yard it all back to the little cubby holes to make room for the kids suspension rework. He buys the propane to heat the place and I give directions. Current aray of perfectly placed items are for the motor change over from the "hate swapping belts" to a variable speed DC job for the little 109.



A treadmill motor perchance?

BEst regards,

Kludge


----------



## lathe nut

RKLopp, I might go back and offer her more if it is still there, is the serial number on the end of the bed ways, tanks, Lathe Nut


----------



## Mark-One

G'day. I have 2 machines now:

Unimat DB200 on loan from my uncle







And what I believe is an older (or at least more heavily used) SL1000 that my dad just got back from a long term loan






Either machine works for me, though the tail stock on the SL tends to bind, and no amount of futzing with it has fixed that. Tried setting the handwheel back and installed some thin teflon washers. Took it apart for cleaning/oiling. It just gets really stiff after I've been drilling for a bit.

Fixed the motor on the DB, which suffered a sudden death last week. Pulled it apart and went chasing wires with the multimeter. Turned out to be the switch. A little contact cleaner sprayed into it fixed it right up.

I can't foresee outgrowing either machine for a long time, which is good since I've no space for anything larger.

Here's the work/play bench




No room to the left or right either


----------



## HS93

I had one for twenty years and sold it because I was buying what I thought was a bigger better machine, big mistake , sorryest thing I have done as i make a lot of small parts in brass and it was ideal , as you are lucky enough to have two you could set one up to mill if you have the extra post, or try and get hold of one its also handy to drill with. I keep looking on eBay to replace mine but they are eathere tatty or want mega bucks for them. shame , ill find another.

peter


----------



## Captain Jerry

Here is my lathe.

 Only two things worth noticing. It is bolted down to a piece of steel that is 3" x 5" x 18" that weighs about 65 lbs (30 Kg or about 2 Slugs). I don't know the source of the steel. I found it in the basement of an old house that I bought and used it as an anvil for years. It is great for mounting the indicator using a magnetic base. The other item to notice is the replacement motor from Blue Ridge Machinery. A little pricey but Wow! what an improvement. Try not to notice the broken lense on the digital indicator. Boy, are they fragile!






Here is my mill. The steel base makes a huge difference in stability.






The whole thing sits in an old cookie sheet. Great for containing lube, coolant, and chips. BTW, does anyone else use turpentine for lube/coolant on aluminum? Smells a lot better than kerosene.

Best to all
Jerry


----------



## joe d

Here's my Taig... had a lot of fun with it so far.





Note the mod to the tail-stock ram, it's much easier on the hand now compared to the factory flat bar stock handle





Sure do wish somebody would post plans for a ball turner so's I could pretty it up some... :big:

Cheers, Joe


----------



## fdew

I am amazed at the variety of lathes out there.

Here is mine. Bought it used about 15 years ago, Most of the non consumable tooling came with it. 3 jaw, quick change, 5C, face plate, live ct, ETC. I have been pleased with it.


----------



## Kludge

Seeing the SL-1000's reminded me of something. Mine has an aluminum base but someone I know has a zamac one available and may have a cast iron one from a DB-200. (He is a fountain of the unexpected and is almost, but not quite, as terminally weird as I am.) Would there be any advantage to swapping out my base for one of the others or should I leave well enough alone? I kind of like the idea of a cast iron one; it's magnetic. On the other hand, there was probably good reason to swap away from cast iron (aside from cost) of which I'm unaware. 

BEst regards,

Kludge


----------



## Mark-One

G'day

I know the parts are supposed to interchange between the SL and the DB. Though I tried swapping out the tailstock on one for the better one on the other of the 2 I have and the centers don't line up in the vertical.

I don't know how easy or not this is to adjust, so I switched back and spent some time trying to get the ram on the not-so-good one working at least half-assed decently (and it does now, half-assed that is).

Maybe a base exchange would go off well, or maybe it would be more trouble than it's worth?


----------



## kvom

Finally got mine in the position I want:


----------



## Maryak

Mark-One  said:
			
		

> G'day
> 
> I know the parts are supposed to interchange between the SL and the DB. Though I tried swapping out the tailstock on one for the better one on the other of the 2 I have and the centers don't line up in the vertical.
> 
> I don't know how easy or not this is to adjust, so I switched back and spent some time trying to get the ram on the not-so-good one working at least half-assed decently (and it does now, half-assed that is).
> 
> Maybe a base exchange would go off well, or maybe it would be more trouble than it's worth?



Mk-1,

Maybe you could mill 2 strips off each side of the base and then replace them with strips and countersunk screws loctited in position and bring the base up to the correct height. for the headstock centre. It's an old trick I've used when repairing large steam engine double ported slide valves which were flopping around in their guides due to old age and worn valve rod guide bearings.

Hope this gives you ideas.  ??? ???


----------



## Mark-One

That's not something I had considered... Gives me something to think about 

Meanwhile I've been futzing with the tailstock some more. There was a burr on the ram that was causing it to catch slightly. A fine file took care of that. For the rest.. I found a brass washer worked better than my teflon ones. I think I need the extra space between the handwheel and the frame. It doesn't glide like the other one does, but I no longer have to wonder if I'm fighting to get a drill into something or fighting the tailstock itself.


----------



## BMyers

My South Bend 9" JR.
looks tiny behind the PW Model B


----------



## C.BRAXMAIER

How, do i post a picture ???


----------



## Ora Banda

Hi!

My Myford ML10 circa 1970's... and still going strong... except for the motor that has finally given up this weekend.



John


----------



## rake60

Welcome to HMEM John.

Nice Myford!

Rick


----------



## Ora Banda

Thanks, Rick... I started in model engineering many many moons ago... took a break for 30 odd years as the family came together and now getting back into it. 

I've treasured my little Myford for all those years from new. It is in mint condition... except the motor which packed in just last weekend.

I bought my Myford for 85 UK pounds... way back in the 70's... the replacement motor alone, today, will cost me more than that! But it's worth it


----------



## Maryak

John,

Welcome to our forum. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


----------



## swinz

Here's my Warco BH600, has it's limitations but a great lathe for the money.
Ideally i would like to upgrade to a Colchester in future but I'm a bit short of room as the lathe shares a single garage with a Bridgeport, a workbench and a motorbike.

Paul.


----------



## jackary

Here is my old lathe a Chipmaster, circa 1956
and which, I have refurbished and repainted. The bed was fairly well
worn so I spent some time trying to re finish the bed by hand to
achieve most of its original accuracy. I have added tee slots
(bolted from underneath to the original cross slide) to accommodate
a top slide of my own design. I also added a rack feed tailstock.
The original motor and variator have been replaced by an inverter
controlling a new 1.5hp 3 phase motor. The speed control
potentiometer is housed inside the on/off/reversed lever, to change
the speed just rotate the black knob. Apart from the wear on the bed
the machine was in reasonable condition for its age and it now runs
very well. I think that the Colchester Lathe Company must have been
proud of this machine, deservedly so.














[/img]
Regards
Alan


----------



## cobra428

Grizzly 10x22 with Shooting star 2 axis DRO





Tony


----------



## rake60

I started this thread on July 10, 2007.
This web site was exactly 2 days old at that time.

Now I think it was a bad idea.
Tool envy is a terrible thing to live with!  

Nice toys guys! Thm:

Rick


----------



## BMyers

The newest addition to the fleet. A 1958 10" Logan


----------



## Antman

Hi 
 Glad to be on someone else&#8217;s thread.  My lathe is still on the floor. Sometimes I envy you guys, South Africa is a vibrant Thirld World country&#8230; I don&#8217;t know where its economy comes from. I just made the long trip to Durban and came back with the best lathe I could find. Looking at it on the floor&#8230; The &#8220;intermediate gear&#8221; gear is plastic &#8230; major dissapointment &#8230; why? If I would have known I could have dealt with the suppliers, like I&#8217;ll only buy the thing together with a box of 10 plastic gears. Now I&#8217;ll have to go to the ends of the Earth to find a spare.
 Ant


----------



## Stan

Ant: I think that most lathes that use a plastic gear, use it as a shear pin. They are assuming that inexperienced people will be using the lathe and it is better to break a plastic gear than to trash the lathe. If you are confident in your capabilities, I am sure that you could get a metal gear to replace it. Probably not from the lathe company but from a gear company.


----------



## Tin Falcon

rake60  said:
			
		

> I started this thread on July 10, 2007.
> This web site was exactly 2 days old at that time.
> 
> Now I think it was a bad idea.
> Tool envy is a terrible thing to live with!
> 
> Nice toys guys! Thm:
> 
> Rick



Hear Hear you are so right.

Ant You should have some safety easy to replace easily broken part in the system keep a spare or two on hand. If there is not a weak point to break lots of things could bend and cause real havoc.
Tin


----------



## cfellows

Nothin' purtier than a metal lathe. No matter how big, how small, or where it's made, you gotta love'm! I'd love to have one of each!

Chuck


----------



## Thad Swarfburn III

Here's my Emco Compact 8. Bought it a few months back. Has been run hard and put away wet. It was full of brass swarf when I got it, and the belt was on wrong. I had to make a new toolpost for it (out of 4340) as some rough pr**k had turned the clamping screws hard enough to distort the old one. Haven't made anything of value yet - still gathering tooling. I've made a faceplate from 6000 series ally, and a cast iron adaptor to hold a Chinese 100mm 4-jaw. Still need parting and boring tools. The lead screw is bent (I suspect from being crudely moved) and causes "ribbing" in horizontal cuts. This will be straightened. I'll also take the bed into work to put on our CMM and grind it if it's really bad. 

On that note, can anyone tell me the reason for the tailstock being on a separate set of v-ways?

My neighbour's got the same lathe in fine condition (he paid 4 times what I did) and I keep lusting after his milling attachment.

Keep posting these, guys. I'm enjoying seeing some of the older iron. Those Monarchs are sweet!

Matt


----------



## kvom

> On that note, can anyone tell me the reason for the tailstock being on a separate set of v-ways?


All the lathes I've seen have separate ways for the tailstock and carriage. Since the carriage will move a lot more than the tailstock over time, I imagine that it's to keep wear on the carriage ways from taking the tailstock off center.


----------



## Tin Falcon

DIYM cute little lathe what brand is it cant say it is under powered.!!!
Tin


----------



## RobWilson

Looking good Diymania......... Thm:

Regards Rob


----------



## Foozer

Diymania  said:
			
		

> And here if the lathe thing almost done:



 Thm:

Robert


----------



## Deanofid

Diymania  said:
			
		

> I figure its my turn to join this thread with my rather useless little lathe...



I wouldn't call a Unimat "useless". There has been a lot of top end work done with these. 
Looking better too, now that you have it out of that "pile-o-hazards"..
  ;D

Dean


----------



## lathe nut

Nice looking lathe, makes me want to go lathe hunting and I found this one, another yard sale, Lathe Nut


----------



## Sanny

My Grayson 3 1/2 Lathe


----------



## oncenter

rake60  said:
			
		

> I've had a few hobby lathes in my basement.
> The one I have now is this Grizzly 9 X 19
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the same machine sold by Harbor Freight as a 9 X 20
> Grizzly measures to a live center vs. a dead center.
> Their made in China!!!  :shock:  Any _REAL_ machinist knows that means
> their nothing but JUNK! Let's keep that mith alive to keep the prices in
> line.  :wink:  A better compound clamp a tweak where and there and I
> have NO complaints!!!! It's been a great little machine for the price.


----------



## macona

Got my little Hercus making chips.

Here is a video of it cutting 1/2"-13 threads in 6061... At 2000RPM.

It can go faster than that though...

http://www.youtube.com/v/YKb2g5xalEk&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0

I thought I had posted the machine earlier when I got it, guess not.

Hercus Compulathe, made in 86. Main board was fried so I have spend the past 4 months or so retrofitting it. Was DC brushed servo with resolver feedback. 80w motors on each axis. I have replaced them with Mitsubishi Brushless servos, 400w on the carriage and 200w on the cross slide. Now does 380ipm.


----------



## Maryak

Mac,

Very Impressive. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## New_Guy

oh man serious tool envy right here  i would kill for that CNC!!! i cant believe its a hercus


----------



## cfellows

Wow, I want one of those!

Chuck


----------



## gt2ride

Here is my latest lathe. A SB 10L with a single leaver on quick change.
The other lathes are on page 1 reply 11
This is no.11 in the collection


----------



## Twmaster

Wow. How did I miss this thread?? Folks, my hat is off to you all. A magnificent collection of lathes! 

I'm in the un-enviable position of having a bunch of lathes and not a single one working right now. 

I had one of those horrid little Harbor Fright 7x10 machines made by Sieg. I got so mad at the thing it is now a pile of parts and scrap metal. The parts are on their way to Canada...

I'm in the middle of resurrecting a Rivett #8 Precision and #608 lathe. This photo is the 1909 #8. I need to make a carriage gib and rig up a drive.






I also have a 1948 Craftsman #109.20630. This photo is as received






Here it is during the repainting stage of it's resurection






I'm waiting on some material to make a few parts then I hope to have it in service shortly.

I also have a 1945 Rivett #918 Turret lathe. This is the FeeBay photo posted by the vendor I bought it from.






Hoping to get around to repainting it this winter.


----------



## cfellows

Love those Rivett Lathes. If you'd like a place to store one of those for a year or two...

Chuck


----------



## Twmaster

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Love those Rivett Lathes. If you'd like a place to store one of those for a year or two...



Yea. Riiiight....


----------



## Deanofid

The old #8 makes my mouth water, Mike. Hope you get her going soon.

Dean


----------



## John Rudd

Here's mine..It's a Chester 9*20, a typical clone of your Grizzly etc..
I've made a few changes as you do...

QCTP, added a VFD (Teco FM50 and a 220v 3ph motor)

I'm also in the throes of adding a tacho readout...more of a 'toit job :-\


----------



## Twmaster

Dean: I hope to spend some time this evening test fitting a borrowed gib from a 608. I need to make some fixtures to cut the 55 deg dovetail edges on the replacement parts.


----------



## CMS

Mid to late 70's SB heavy 10 and helper.


----------



## Russel

Wow! Lots of incredible lathes in this thread!

Here is my humble little Sherline lathe. Small, but it serves me well.






I bet most of you don't store you lathe on a shelf in the garage.






Russ


----------



## Twmaster

Russel--

They say good things come in small packages. In the case of the Sherline that is so very very true. Nice 'little' lathe sir!


----------



## cfellows

Would love to have a Sherline. But D*** they are expensive! So many lathes, so little time...

Chuck


----------



## Mike N

I just bought this Hardinge Tool Room Lathe at an auction sale on Thursday. I got it home, wired it up & everything works. These little lathes run as smooth as a Swiss watch. All it needs is a good clean-up & new gray paint job! This was the best deal I ever got on a machine tool!  I will post the before & after picture when I get it painted.


----------



## Deanofid

Now, that's a model makers lathe! 

Nice find, Mike.


----------



## cfellows

Mike, very nice purchase. Sure wouldn't mind having something like that.

Chuck


----------



## Twmaster

I just got back a little while ago with a nice old Atlas 618 I found on Craigslist.






Complete with motor drive/counter shaft, some tooling, two chucks, faceplate, original manual and the Atlas Lathe book.

With a little clean up I should -finally- have a functional lathe in my cave. Now I can actually make engines!


----------



## capjak

There is a yahoo group devoted to Atlas-Craftsman lathes. The address is [email protected]. I used to have a 618 and got a lot of information from that site. Enjoy your new machine.

Jack


----------



## Deanofid

Another nice one with the 618, Mike!

Following Mike (twmaster), I'll do a "me too" and show my new/old 618 I've been putting together the past couple of weeks.






It's up and running, but needs spindle bearings, which are on the way from Clausing. Can't do any fine tuning or serious leveling until I get those into the head stock. Soon. The bearings are supposed to be here Wed!

This is an early model 618 badged as a Craftsman. Plain bearings and a 1"-8 spindle. It's pretty nice. After using small machines (Taig and Sherline) for so many years, it seems big. It weighs about as much as half a dozen Taig lathes. 

I went from a 400 pound machine to Taig/Sherline size in one jump about 15 years ago. The new Atlas is about as big a machine that I can get into my little shop, and I'm kinda excited to start making chips with it. 

Dean


----------



## cfellows

Those little Atlas 6" lathes are so nice. Back in the early 70's, I used to walk by a machine tool dealer who sold Atlas products on my way to work in Denver, Co. They had a nice, new 6" Atlas sitting on display in their window. I always had to stop for few minutes to admire it and wish desperately that I had the $279 that it sold for (nicely equipped).

Chuck


----------



## Twmaster

I've joined the Yahoo Group for the 618. It's surprising what some machine bring in today's money. The 618 had a selling price of $160 in the 1950's. $279 as you say in the 1970's. I paid $350 for this one on Saturday!

I'm just about half way through cleaning it up. I'm not going to repaint it (just yet) as I need to get a working lathe into my shop most riki-tik.

It has a few nicks in the ways up by the head stock but otherwise it's in pretty good shape. I need to take the lead screws and gibs out of the compound/CS as they are all kinda stiff. I'm sure a good cleaning and relube will do the trick.


----------



## lathe nut

Twmaster, mike, your going to love that lathe, I got one and its great, next one we get we need to send it to Chuck, I got mine from a fellow that said he had one that someone gave him and wanted to know it I wanted to buy it, like a stray dog followed him home, when he open that shop door and saw that little lathe, I started foaming at the mouth, I don't think he saw that, he said I would like one hundred for it, I said to much he then said that is a bucket of thing over here I guess all that goes with the lathe, all the change gears, four jaw chuck, steady rest and a lot of small tooling, I gladly gave him the hundred, now when I got home she was foaming at the mouth, might be the water ??? Lathe Nut


----------



## Twmaster

Heh. She'll get over it. And if she doesn't the lathe is cheaper to keep than her! (So says the bachelor!  )

Yea, I got a great deal on the thing. Came with a 4 jaw independent chuck, 3 jaw scroll with inside and outside jaws, faceplate, drive dogs, dead center, tooling, original manual, the Altas lathe book, fullset of change gears.... Here's the box of accessories...


----------



## DavesWimshurst

twmaster,
My first lathe was/is an Atlas 618, talked my dad into buying it when I was 15. Here's a page from the 1941 Sears Craftsman catalog:




Mine is a 1950's vintage with roller bearings. I have it in my office at the science museum. :
Dave


----------



## Twmaster

Dave, that's a neat photo. You don't happen to have a photo of the opposing page from that catalog do you? It looks like the tailstock end of a model 109 lathe sitting there.


----------



## Toyman01

The lathe. It is a 1940s era South Bend 9A with a 54" bed. It hasn't seen a lot of use, but when I found it it was in a shed covered with dirt and grime. I gave $400 for it. I spent hours trying to get it clean and finally ended up carrying it to the car wash and blasting it. Then I spent several more hours and several cans of lube getting it all oiled. 

I added the QC tool post and replaced both the three and four jaw chuck. The originals were in bad shape and would not stay tight. The massive motor that came with it was junk so I converted it to DC drive. Initially I used a tread mill motor and control. They lasted a few weeks and burned up. The first motor was a 1hp, the current motor is a 2.5hp. It and the control were ordered off the internet from Surplus Center. The control came without a box so I made one out of a PVC box. The only thing left off the tread mill is the knob on the rheostat. I kind of liked the big knob. The original drive motor only had one pulley size so I couldn't use the three step pulley to change speeds and the DC motor was way too fast to drive direct, so I also added the drive pulley assembly. 

The Taig lathe was my first machine. She has seen a lot of use making model race boat parts. I even turned a set of replacement pins for a backhoe with it. Needless to say those took a while. It is still basically stock. I have most of the tooling Taig makes for it including the milling attachment. It was the only mill I had for a long time. I haven't used it in years, but seeing what some of you guys build with them I'll have to clean it up and put it back in service. It will probably be easier to use with some of these small parts.

South Bend:





Drive motor:





Control:





Taig:


----------



## ttrikalin

Here's my little one. A brass bed Sherline built in 1976 (according to the sticker). I got it used last June. I had to make some tune-ups including dressing the chuck, changing leadscrew nuts and so on... (mounted on it is my stereomicroscope - Joseph's donation to the cause).






I added an indicator led 






Which is great 






It is larger than it seems, depending on what you put on it (eccentric hole crankshaft bearing for my Tiny 1/4 scale)






And still small enough to tuck away in the closet...


----------



## DavesWimshurst

A couple more pics from the 1941 Sears Craftsman catalog:
Dunlap





Sears best





What I use the most a 1980 South Bend heavy 10:





Overhead drive as described in one of Guy Lautard's Machinist's Bedside Readers.
Dave


----------



## Twmaster

Dave, Thank you for the photos. I have an old Craftsman #109.20630 lathe. While nowhere near the same machine as the Atlas (or that sweet SB 10 you have) they still hold a sweet spot in my view. I also make parts for the old AA/Dunlap machines. 

Also, I have just started reading Guy Lautard's 'Machinist's Bedside Reader' (Vol 1)

What a nice book full of great info.

Nice stuff. Thank you.


----------



## jabezkin

Mike N  said:
			
		

> I just bought this Hardinge Tool Room Lathe at an auction sale on Thursday. I got it home, wired it up & everything works. These little lathes run as smooth as a Swiss watch. All it needs is a good clean-up & new gray paint job! This was the best deal I ever got on a machine tool!  I will post the before & after picture when I get it painted.



Wait till you thread on it the first time............

And put a 10psi airline with an oiler to the base of the tailstock, floats on air and keeps dirt out. Remember to put the hole past centerline, away from the headstock.


----------



## Mike N

Mike N  said:
			
		

> I just bought this Hardinge Tool Room Lathe at an auction sale on Thursday. I got it home, wired it up & everything works. These little lathes run as smooth as a Swiss watch. All it needs is a good clean-up & new gray paint job! This was the best deal I ever got on a machine tool!  I will post the before & after picture when I get it painted.



I added the after picture, now all I have left is to install the DRO.

I installed the DRO today & now I'm ready to get it dirty!


----------



## Deanofid

Very beautiful, Mike N!


----------



## ariz

what an envy... it's wonderful :bow:


----------



## jabezkin

Mike N  said:
			
		

> I added the after picture, now all I have left is to install the DRO.


Maybe set the feed clutches to"Panic Mode". Just for a little while.


----------



## don-tucker

Heres one I had for about 10 years,served me well,no gears so I installed a motor to give me a feed,I believe they were connected to the Allas Co


----------



## Quickj

OK,
I spent the last 4 days Cleaning the Lathe so I could take some pictures of it. Filled 2 40 gallon trash bags with swarf.

This is my 1947 Southbend 9" toolroom lathe with 4' bed. It is a model "A" with quick change gearbox. It has a factory taper attachment, and all of the other bits and pieces that you could get for it, such as Thread dial, Steady Rest, Follow rest (That I got from eBay and is marked MIT Physics Lab) Micrometer carrage stop, 3 Jaw Chuck, 4 Jaw Chuck, Faceplate, Dog drive plate, Full set of SB drive dogs, 3 different toolposts including a lantern, a turret, and a (Semi)Quick change, I have 17 tool holders for the lantern tool post etc. It also came with a Factory 3C collet set when I bought it In the Original Dovetailed wooden box with the SB decal (Very Rare, I have seen the Collet set go for over $600.00 on eBay). I also have a Lever Turret Tailstock for it that I am rebuilding. Maybe I should arrange all of the accessories in front of it and take a pic. 

Here are the pics;


----------



## 1hand

Quickj;

Sweet lathe. Love the vintage stuff. Very clean. 80gals of swarf? Man use must of been busy!!!!


----------



## dsquire

Quickj

That's a beautiful lathe that you have there. Thanks for taking the time to show it to us. :bow:

Cheers

Don


----------



## Twmaster

Wow what a sweet machine. I love old machines...

I just tonight finished setting my Atlas 618 on the work table. Powered up. All seems good other than the FWD/REV power switch being wired backwards...




Going to give it a thorough check over again tomorrow and perhaps make some parts into scrap!


----------



## mu38&Bg#

I posted this one when I joined here. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3912.msg42065#msg42065 This is my Clausing 4900 series 4902 lathe. I have a three jaw and four jaw chuck, a face place, and now a Sjogren 5C collet chuck. I added an import tool post. I'll be making a carriage stop shortly. It's ready to go now.


----------



## lathe nut

Nice looking lathe fellows, makes me want another lathe, my son said the other day why so many lathes, because I want them and then I told him I had a dream that I died and I came back as an Octopus and I was able to run all of them at the same time, he had no more question, think he might wants to put me away now, let's enjoy, Lathe Nut


----------



## titex

Hello all,
       I just joined the forum today and I am finding it very interesting although, I must disagree with some opinions in 
     this thread about Monarch lathes. yes, they are excellent machines but no lathe will ever come close to 
      any lathe made by Dean Smith and Grace. I will post a few pics of mine when I get a camera. :-[
                              Best wishes to all,
                                  Titex.


----------



## Tin Falcon

Titex :
First of all welcome to the board. Please read the posts and get to know us, and post an intro in the welcome section when you get a chance.
This board is a bunch of hobbyists helping one another build model engines and tooling . We foster an environment of mutual respect and encouragement.
 I have never heard of a Dean Smith & Grace lathe and would love to see photos. I hope you did not mean to have a "My Lathe is better than yours" tone in your post. We try not to have a 'bragging' tone towards one another here. 

Tin Falcon


----------



## titex

Hello Tin Falcon,
              First off thanks for your welcome to the forum, secondly, I am not dismissing anyone else's machinery,
          But when I read some opinions, then I had to express mine. Looking through some of the post's here,
          You all appear to be a friendly, helpful bunch. and I look forward to my time here.
                                 Best wishes,
                                 Titex.


----------



## NickG

DSG are a well known toolroom lathe of the highest quality. You couldn't really call it a hobby machine, not sure how big the smallest ones are but I think 13" x 30" by the looks of this:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/dsg/index.html

Probably weighs over 1 tonne!

If you are lucky enough to find one and have the space for one though ... good on you!

Would like to see pics!

Nick


----------



## Stan

Lathes and Computers. You only need a newer faster computer when your computational skills exceed the capacity of your present one. 

You only need a better lather when your machining abilities exceed the capacity of your present one.

Have a look at the work produced by some of the true masters of our hobby and look at the lathes they use (60 year old hardware store quality or modern often criticized Chinese).

As to computers, I never exceeded the capacity of my Commodore 64 to solve math problems!


----------



## titex

Stan:
       How right you are about computers and lathes, computers I will NEVER understand, and as for the lathe part, I also use
     for smaller stuff a chinese lathe [center height 150mm, weight 530kgs] and since I bought it from new in 2001 it has never
     needed as much as a new bulb for the halogen lamp. But, if I need to remove a lot of metal fast and with guaranteed accuracy
     then I will use the DSG [center height 280mm, weight 3260kgs, 35kw] although the electric bill goes through the roof :
      So yes if my chinese lathe is anything to go by then they are good machines [for the price].
                                     Regards,
                                      Titex.


----------



## NickG

In my opinion, I would have to disagree with this comment 





> You only need a better lather when your machining abilities exceed the capacity of your present one.



I don't really see what capacity has to do with machining abilities. It can often take more skill to produce smaller items. Also, it takes higher machining ability to get better results from a poor machine.

I know from personal experience that the quality and accuracy of my work improved a great deal when I got my harrison lathe. I really struggled on my previous 2 lathes which were pretty worn out. I know some of the chinese machines are poor quality and people struggle equally on those. 

Like everything though, some chinese machines are good and some are poor. I agree though, some fantastic work is made on 60 year old machines and modern Chinese ones, but if they are, as you said, the masters of our hobby, give them a really good quality lathe then imagine what they would churn out.

I've had some old worn out machinery, some new chinese crap, and some good quality machinery in good condition and it's definitely the latter that gives the best results in my opinion. I don't think I've made a step change in my machining abilities so I'd have to put it down to the machine.

Even at school, I remember using my, unbeknown to me, worn out Myford ML7 at the time and being frustrated at the results I was getting. I then used a boxford at school one day that had had little use and the results from that were astonishing - in a different league. If people just starting out in this hobby end up getting a poor quality first machine it could end up putting them right off by becoming too frustrated when the machine doesn't do what they ask of it.

Just a couple of my opinions.

Nick


----------



## doc1955

NickG  said:
			
		

> I don't really see what capacity has to do with machining abilities. It can often take more skill to produce smaller items. Also, it takes higher machining ability to get better results from a poor machine.


4

I agree with this as things get smaller tolerances follow suit so when I see small engines I get impressed.
And as far as machinery there too I agree when you are use to tool room quality machines and go to a sub-standard machine it gets a lot tougher and you defiantly need to have more talent plus patience.
Just my opinion.


----------



## steamer

Yea DSG is a great machine....The bigger ones are much like a Pacemaker....which if you ever seen one in action is pretty impressive.

3000 kg+.....is not exactly home shop.....for most : 

Dave


----------



## Stan

Capacity was probably a poor choice or word. I wasn't referring to size but the quality of the machine not being able to do work that you are capable of. If you are able to do better work on a high quality lathe then you have exceeded the capacity of the one you are working on. In other words, there is no point in buying a precision lathe if you measure with a ruler.


----------



## steamer

I have a friend of mine who made a very small eyeglass screw for a professor of the college he worked at as the machine shop instructor.

All the lathes where QC, and the screw thread was VERY fine....like over 100, and something like #0 or #1 in diameter.

The most expedient way to do it was on his "big" lathe as the QC had the right thread handy......of course....he did it with the 24" 3 jaw still in the lathe....as it was too heavy to be bothered to remove ;D

Even a bull can be taught to do ballet if you "ask nice" and know what your doing...which he does...but the quality of the lathe is a factor.

Dave

PS  and I do think bragging rights had as much to do with lathe choice as anything.. :big:


----------



## 1hand

Here is my 9x19 with the new 6" three jaw and DRO installed. " got sick of using the ruler"....lol

Matt


----------



## NickG

Stan,

True, I see what you mean now. Think I was looking at what you said from the wrong perspective.

Matt, that looks like a particularly nice version of a '9x20' I know somebody at my local club that made some really impressive stuff on his. He sold it and bought a myford quite a few years back and has just changed the myford for a nearly new one but he's not overly impressed with it. Strange with Myfords, people either swear by them or don't like them. I've only used a very worn one, but I can't imagine a new one being that amazing - certainly not for the price!

Nick


----------



## titex

steamer,
        In reply to your post about the DSG not being a hobby machine well you are correct. I do a lot of sub contract work for oil tool companies
   and the DSG is used for that [mainly Inconel 600 and 718 and, now and then PH Stainless] I will use it for my "hobby" if I have a need to but,
    my hobby machine 99% of the time is the chinaman that I mentioned.  I am not familiar with the machine that you mentioned [Pacemaker]
   Do you have anymore info on them? 
                                  Regards,
                                      Titex.


----------



## Deanofid

Look up American Pacemaker. Hardened tool steel V ways, bearings everywhere, hardened drive gears, hammer forged spindle in three Timkin bearings. Precision from beginning to end. Super long life. Stuff like that.


----------



## steamer

Check it out....

http://www.lathes.co.uk/pacemaker/index.html

A beast of a machine and by all accounts the best "super" lathe out there......at least for it's time....

They were known to take terrifying cuts at full power and just keep going.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mg6tDnFGeK8[/ame]

http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/atw/atw-pacemaker-bulletin-19-1946.pdf

http://pounceatron.dreamhosters.com/docs/atw/atw-americans-on-display-bulletin-464-1950.pdf


Dave


----------



## New_Guy

Tin Falcon  said:
			
		

> Titex :
> First of all welcome to the board. Please read the posts and get to know us, and post an intro in the welcome section when you get a chance.
> This board is a bunch of hobbyists helping one another build model engines and tooling . We foster an environment of mutual respect and encouragement.
> I have never heard of a Dean Smith & Grace lathe and would love to see photos. I hope you did not mean to have a "My Lathe is better than yours" tone in your post. We try not to have a 'bragging' tone towards one another here.
> 
> Tin Falcon



my god you never heard of a Dean Smith and Grace lathe you have no idea  we always see them on Ebay here in Aus not many 1 or 2 are always up because they are in god awful places out west great machines i have only heard great things about them and i would love to use one one day. i think you could almost say a DS&G lathe is the British American Peacemaker because they never made small thats like Colchester and Harrison did from the start they were made for hard work ;D

Titex when you get your camera i for one would love to see your lathe ........please


----------



## titex

G'Day,G'Day,G'Day, New_Guy,
                     First of all, Greetings to Oz from Scotland.
             Yes as soon as I buy, or preferably borrow a camera I will post some photo's.
       I am not suprised that DSG's turn up in the outback, they have been known to turn up in some very remote locations indeed.
        There is 1 in the machine shop of the US carrier "Ronald Reagan" You are correct in your post that DSG never made small 
       lathes [although my one would be classed as small compared to the large DSG's] Now if only I could learn to use it properly :big:
                                  Best wishes,
                                 Titex.
           PS, Have a great New year [Blow the froth off a few ;D]


----------



## doc1955

Here are some pics of my lathe.




Not very good with the camera.




I put up some peg board behind and a shelve to hold my collets and other tools.
Plus a light unit above I got for 25$ it seems to work pretty good.




The walls are just shy of 10 feet. I hung a tarp behind to kind of separate my machines from the rest of the garage.
May build a real wall eventually don't know yet. Our garage is 40' x 28' I claimed about 1 stall for my machines.


----------



## doc1955

Mike N  said:
			
		

> I added the after picture, now all I have left is to install the DRO.
> 
> I installed the DRO today & now I'm ready to get it dirty!



Man am I envious :bow: I've done a lot of tooling work on a lathe that would be a twin to that.
They are a super lathe and I love their threading and taper capabilities. Now go get it dirty and make some chips. :big:


----------



## Twmaster

Doc, Nice looking hunk of Grizz Green! Which model is it?

Is that tool post the stock unit or aftermarket? 

Thanks!


----------



## doc1955

Thanks!

It is the G4003 12x36 the tool post is my design that I built I didn't like the one that came with the lathe.
I have a PDF drawing of it posted in this thread http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=6471.msg72097#msg72097

So far I like it granted it isn't a tool room lathe but it (so far) has done what I've asked it to do.

I'm not real happy with the collet closer I bought with it though.
The tube I ended up picking up the internal thread and recutting them myself to fit the collets. Grizzly did send me a tube that was suppose to be inspected 100% but quess what it was the same as the first one and needs the internal thread fixed. It's laying on the shelf and Ireally don't need it at this point.


----------



## SeanG

I've got two lathes, my first one is a Denford Viceroy, but I can't fit it in my garage so I haven't used it yet.

My second is an ML10, smaller and neater






http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JQ-5V2JI86KZmU6uGYSOuQ?feat=directlink

and here is how it shoehorns into the garage :-[





http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bpJAw280Men776oM57isOg?feat=directlink

just visable in the chuck is my first project a surface gauge from Harold Hall's "Lathework A Complete Course"


----------



## NickG

Sean,

Welcome to the forum. Nice looking ML10 which do you prefer to use out of those two?

PM sent on non lathe related stuff!

Nick


----------



## SeanG

Nick,

I've only ever turned the viceroy on once - the motor isn't attached to the belt yet and the switch box is mounted inside the base, on top of the motor!

It span up, went faster and faster and faster, which was interesting for ten seconds and then I chickened out. Its stored in my mums garage and so I've never got round to getting it running properly

The ML10 is a joy to use, it whispers along unless I fit the backgear - then it's very rattley.

The viceroy will come to live with me once I build workshop - this years main project ;D Then it will get the TLC it's in desperate need off. As my model is Plain I'm thinking of using it mainly for lathe based milling operations.


----------



## NickG

Ah right, well it should be very useful for that. You'll find it's a very rigid machine.

Nick


----------



## New_Guy

SeanG  said:
			
		

> The ML10 is a joy to use, it whispers along unless I fit the backgear - then it's very rattley.



i have been meaning to ask how you like your ML10 it looks very light but very interesting can i ask how the tailstock is locked? there is no information on the tailstock in the net


----------



## SeanG

New_Guy, The tail stock has a clamp to lock it to the bed and a clamp to lock the barrel in the tail.

From memory the bed clamp acts on the gib strip. I'll take some pics tonight (before I have the Friday beer). You had to ask a question on the one part I didn't strip and clean didn't you! The apron, cross slide, headstock - I'm an expert at dropping bits of those on the floor. All I did to the tailstock is take it off the bed and give a clean :

Nick, do you have a viceroy as well then? I've seen some posts on here from Julian who has a viceroy, but nothing on this thread.


If you want to see an ML10 doing impressive work, look up MyfordBoy on you tube. He has a series of video's on casting and a few where you can see him machining the castings on his ML10, I particularly like the one where he was using a Riser Spindle to turn a wheel he'd cast
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/user/myfordboy#p/u/6/m_-iPpEuWRA]http://www.youtube.com/user/myfordboy#p/u/6/m_-iPpEuWRA[/ame]


Sean


----------



## NickG

Sean,

no, but I've used boxfords before and really liked them. I believe the viceroy is virtually the same machine.

Nick


----------



## New_Guy

SeanG  said:
			
		

> New_Guy, The tail stock has a clamp to lock it to the bed and a clamp to lock the barrel in the tail.
> 
> From memory the bed clamp acts on the gib strip. I'll take some pics tonight (before I have the Friday beer). You had to ask a question on the one part I didn't strip and clean didn't you! The apron, cross slide, headstock - I'm an expert at dropping bits of those on the floor. All I did to the tailstock is take it off the bed and give a clean :
> 
> Nick, do you have a viceroy as well then? I've seen some posts on here from Julian who has a viceroy, but nothing on this thread.
> 
> 
> If you want to see an ML10 doing impressive work, look up MyfordBoy on you tube. He has a series of video's on casting and a few where you can see him machining the castings on his ML10, I particularly like the one where he was using a Riser Spindle to turn a wheel he'd cast
> http://www.youtube.com/user/myfordboy#p/u/6/m_-iPpEuWRA
> 
> 
> Sean



thanks Sean i have a little interest in lathes with dovetail ways and information on the tailstock is usually neglected

ill check out that link to thanks


----------



## SeanG

Here you go New_Guy





http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PaKEh5wuhH14CGwNhlr15g?feat=directlink





http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bqXW3i9IeCy_4WzQeFwglQ?feat=directlink





http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/m31gHSmSmFl0uHN7UxuEmA?feat=directlink


----------



## rockets

Here is the Chester model B that I hope to be getting to grips with in the near future. It will have to wait right now, I've just been out to take this picture and its a wee bitty cold in the shed (-7c).








My wee beastie.

Rockets.


----------



## New_Guy

SeanG  said:
			
		

> Here you go New_Guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PaKEh5wuhH14CGwNhlr15g?feat=directlink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bqXW3i9IeCy_4WzQeFwglQ?feat=directlink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/m31gHSmSmFl0uHN7UxuEmA?feat=directlink



thanks Sean i had an idea of what it would have looked like but yeah i didnt expect it was designed that way thanks for the photos Thm:


----------



## SeanG

Looks nice rockets,

It's thawing out now, so you can get some swarf on it ;D


----------



## phlegmatic

hehe, -7 thats when Ill start working in the shed! Weve had -20´s here for weeks now, untill a few days ago.. now its just -12c! Combo machines are cool!!!


----------



## rockets

Things are much warmer now, I've been out there building some decent tool storage. Work permitting I should be playing with the lathe next week.


----------



## SeanG

> building some decent tool storage




Gonna have to show some pics Mr Rockets!!!


----------



## rockets

You're right Sean, I will brave the returning snow and go out to the shed tomorrow with camera in hand.


----------



## Jdaniel343

Here are a few photos of my new Sheldon Lathe TE-1236 P TMWQE15228.


----------



## Jdaniel343

Here are a few more photos of my new Sheldon Lathe TE-1236 P TMWQE15228.


----------



## E Chris

Hello everyone,

Here is a photo of my Logan model 815. It was sold new at a machinery dealer here in Springfield back in 1946. I got in 1976. After going through it and replacing all worn shafts and bearings I also replaced the spindle bearings and made a new spindle. The spindle threads, register, and taper were cut in place, in other words it finished its own spindle. The cross slide dovetail was recut and a new cross slide nut made. I rebored the tailstock, made a new ram, and made a new base. The tailstock now has a friction dial which is very useful. I also made a friction dial for the cross slide and replaced the hand wheel with a balanced ball handle. It is now a dependable and accurate machine.






Chris


----------



## rake60

Nothing will ever beat or match the old iron lathes.
They just don't make them like that anymore.

Cool toys Jdaniel343 and Chris!

Rick


----------



## lathe nut

Great looking lathes fellows, I looked at one today, it was a VanNorm, I think I read the label right or something close to that, does anyone know much about them, it had white hair must be 1900 ish, if I can get for 100 or less I will get it, hope I can get it home without the wife knowing that I got one more lathe, if I get it I will post a pic of the old boy, Lathe Nut


----------



## sportandmiah

I bought this on ebay last year...brand new in box plus many new accessories for $400. Eventually I'll buy another lathe, bigger in size, but this works well for me now.


----------



## Paolo

Hello guys...
some pictures of my Ceriani after some improvements...like an inverter installment and a reverse gear...now I'm able to do any type of tread from 0 to 2.5 mm and also witwort one...!!!


----------



## E Chris

Ciao Paolo and everyone,

Your Ceriani is a very nice looking machine. I am curious, is it made in Italia? The dovetail ways are an interesting feature.

Chris


----------



## Jdaniel343

One more photo of the Sheldon.


----------



## Paolo

Hi Chris
Thanks for your interest on my lathe..yes it's an Italian lathe..but a little bit different from standard I added some modification talking directly to Ceriani brothers. I'll take some pics of that dovetail ways... is an double "V" with automatic backlash compensation ant It works very well...


----------



## Deanofid

Nice looking machines, everyone. Sherline, Sheldon, Logan, Ceriani. Great stuff!

Dean


----------



## steamer

Nice looking lathe Paolo!.....How are you my friend?

Dave


----------



## Paolo

Hi Dave....
sorry for the "long" delay on answering You...I'm well Dave...thanks!!!!


----------



## multihobbyguy

Here are my lathes, I figure I better post some pictures before I start to thin the herd. I made a deal with the misses that I would get rid of least two lathes if I could go ahead and get a mill. I will be keeping the MKII but, not sure of which other ones I might hold onto. Enjoy the pictures, Chris.


----------



## New_Guy

nice collection of lathes you have there i really like how you set up your work spaces lol and the hole in your peg bored


----------



## gus

Here is my Sakai Japanese Lathe at the end of the balcony.There is no hope of buying more machine tools though
I have added on a Sakai Vertical Mill.Both cost me a bomb.Foto was taken 2004 when shop was brand new with three work benches.You will need a magnifying glass to pick out my mini Sakai Lathe.
Sad to say I have purchesed complete machine tools.I had two Leblond engine lathe with auto speed selector.
They gave me very good jobs.
Built 200 ton benders,300 ton deep draw press,1/2" x 60" capacity bending rolls,overhead cranes and auto sub-arc welding machines.Plant shutdown and all went to scrap dealers in 2001.
Today I have happy memories of so many equipment Ingersoll-Rand let me built.


----------



## Niels Abildgaard

An old Boxford is put on an even older piece of granite.
Run out on the shown testbar is less or equal to noise of the dial indicator.
It is driven from a frequency converter and using a twist link belt.
Speed is limited at 1700 rpm by the noise of the geartrain to the Norton gearbox and me being a chicken.
A friend of mine has put a belt drive in his lathe and this takes care of the noise. Using strong beer to go from chicken to rooster is not adviceable.
I dreamt of buying a Hardinge,Schaublinn,Weiler etc but suddenly saw myself as an ridiculous old man being servant to a young and expensive wife.
I feel more comfortable trying to get good work from that 80 year old enginering disaster.My wife and I have had 40 year aniversary.


----------



## fang

cm615


----------



## Philjoe5

My friend Don let me know about a Logan lathe for sale. He said it was in very good condition and the price was right. So on a blazing hot day last week we drove to a house in New Jersey, hauled it out of the basement and loaded it onto Dons flatbed. We unloaded it in my garage the following day. Did I mention Don is 70 and Im 63? Its amazing how a good piece of machinery motivates!

The lathe bed was cast in 1947 (too ironic, age 63!!), and the complete machine was sold in 1949 as a 10 Model 825. It stayed in the same family for all these years passing from one generation to the next. It was well cared for and is all original as far as I can tell. This machine is a fine example of US engineering and also as a well made tool capable of doing work to the degree of accuracy I will need. I feel quite fortunate to be the new owner. 

To make room in the shop I sold my first lathe, a Grizzly 9x20. I truly was sad to see it leave the shop but I think the new owner will soon come to realize its potential as I did. It served me well and certainly introduced me to a whole new world of enjoyment and challenge.

Here are a few pictures of the Logan in my basement. It is not yet in running condition. It needs to be wired up then I should start making chips with it.











Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Stan

A great find Phil. It looks like you are missing the gear cover.
There is a Yahoo site for Logan owners. Actually there are two, with one of them sponsored by Scott Logan at Logan Actuator.


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Nice one Phil. Congratulations.


----------



## ariz

nice lathe there, and a peculiar base, with that pipe folded to form a single foot


----------



## Philjoe5

Thanks Stan, Zee, Ariz. Stan, the only part not installed is the gearbox cover but I do have it. I've bookmarked the Logan sites.

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## Maryak

Good one Phil,

It sure looks like it's in good nick. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## Philjoe5

Thanks Bob. It is in a little better shape than I am considering we're both the same age. For one thing it has all its (gear) teeth. For another thing, it doesn't seem to leak at all :big:

Cheers,
Phil


----------



## b-n-60hz

An Atlas metal lathe I inheirited from my late father last May:





Longview:




I just got it reassembled in my garage but don't know if I have it right, but it seems to work!
I do have to find a narrower belt for the main motor belt. The transmission belt is old but stays where you set it. The main drive belt keeps slipping off, but it is new and too wide.


----------



## Blogwitch

B-N,

I loved my old Atlas 10F, and up to now, I did a lot of my best work using it.

The belt can be a problem, as you have to disassemble the whole spindle just to change it. I changed mine to a Redthane tubing one, joined by heat at the ends, so it was just a matter of cutting the old v belt off and threading the circular belt on, and then heat joining the ends. You can do the same sort of thing with link belting. It might be a touch expensive for the initial outlay, but that is offset by not having the trauma of stripping the head down.

Very nice lathe BTW.

Bogs


----------



## don-tucker

This is my 1st lathe,my boss got it from some where,so asked if I could have it,built my clock movement with it,sold it on for an Atlas then sold that for a Myford super 7
Before




After




Don


----------



## lathe nut

good looking lathes fellows, I have a six inch Atlas, love it and sure would love to have that Myford, you did a great job bring him back from the dead, I tell my wife it not what it is but what it can be, that is a good example, glad for you fellows, Laht Nut


----------



## around

I have just finished refurbishing a 1972 Boxford AUDII. A complete strip down, cleaning, rebuild of several parts, rewiring and finally refinishing. Time to retire my 1988 Taiwanese 9X20!

Cheers,

Adrian


----------



## Blogwitch

What a lovely job you have done of that Adrian, it now looks too good to be used.

That range of Boxford lathes really are almost bombproof, and were the mainstay of most school and college workshops. So plenty of spares (new and old) to be had.

For the price you can still pick them up for, they are a bargain to be had. Around here, they go at the local scrappies for about 400 squid (ex college and schools clearance), so a little work (or a lot) as you have done, there is no reason not to have a reasonable sized lathe in your shop.

Wonderful work.

Bogs


----------



## NickG

Wow, that is a very nice restoration job :bow:


----------



## barney_leadhead

WOW - It looks like it has just been delivered from the factory! 8)


----------



## steamer

oooooooooooooooh!  I like it! ;D

Well done!

Dave


----------



## Florian

I am just at the last steps and details of the restoration of my new lathe, guess what machine it is ;D

Here's a picture how i bought it (almost 2 years ago now)






And what it looked like 3 weeks ago (when i noticed the bed needs some grinding to get in a good shape again; there was 5/100 mm difference on the square guide and thats too much for mee...)






Cheers
Florian


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Beautiful job!



			
				Florian  said:
			
		

> guess what machine it is



Yours? Otherwise I have no idea. ;D


----------



## Florian

Yeah, its mine... ;D

Of course i want to know if anyone knows its brand.. ( I do...)

Cheers 8)


----------



## Paolo

Great Florian!!!!
Paolo


----------



## Paolo

I'll try to describe my David as someone requested... ;D
The bed, in stabilized cast iron is very rigid. It is very well machined and free of any flaw








Headstock is an Enbloc, well sized and machined with accuracy. 
Chuck spindle: The chuck spindle rotates on adjustable TIMKEN taper roller bearings and really free and without any noise.
Drive system: Machine drive is obtained by a set of pulleys and V-belts and mine had a modification now It has a inverter control system so I use just two mechanical combination, slow and high position, and the infinite variation by the potentiometer.








The automatic work feeds is really useful. I requested to Ceriani factory a little modification like the reversing gear system so Im capable to do a reverse treading!! 








Carriage: The carriage with apron is well proportioned and slides on dove tail guide ways protected by oil scrapers; it is fitted with a self-adjusting jib. Traverses take place by means of a hand wheel and rack gear.




Saddles: The saddles are sturdy and easy to adjust, equipped with precision screws mounted on ball bearings and with well engraved adjustable vernier. The adjustable tailstock is also equipped with a adjustable vernier and it turns, unfortunately, counterclockwise. I contacted Ceriani brothers several times suggesting the modification of that rotation sense. The quick blocking happens, without any hesitation, through a comfortable lever.




The pivoting protection screen and the carter door are protected by micro switches




I had also the two chuck, a three and four jaws, mounted on the back plates by Ceriani. I adapted another back plate on the 5C chuck . Now I can change chucks without losing precision. I didnt measured the backlash but the resulting works done until now seems To be really precise. 




Compared to other lathes of the same category I preferred that lathe due to the 32 mm spindle hole
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




 and his relative light weight, 80kg a really bench top lathe, instead of 180kg for a similar lathe.


----------



## mariolucchini

I'm a newby to this forum and I'm showing the lathes I use.....I work mainly in micromechanics and these little machines are all I need for the moment....

First the most discussed Emco Unimat 3....some love it, others hate it.....its given me faithfull service for more than 35 years....







Then there's the Boley F-1......filthy precise with all its original box of accesories...










And then the WW Lorch 7, which I got for very little $$$, and overhauled completely...mighty precise machine too, and what's best is that all the Boley's accesories fit right in....








Thanks for looking....

Mario


----------



## smgraph

Here's my 9" Southbend, I can't take credit for the rebuild. I bought it of a friend who did all of the work. ;D


----------



## LX Kid

Here's my Craftsman 101./Atlas 618. I'm new to latheing and bought this a couple weeks ago for $500 w/set of change gears, 3 & 4 Jaw chuck. Looks and works great!


----------



## Spurry

Having looked through the thread from the start, I did not see many Harrisons. ???

This is my M250, bought in 1986

Pete


----------



## BillTodd

Just to add to the Hardinge count...

My soon-to-be fifty year old HLV-H


----------



## Kmot

I just read through all 26 pages of this thread. What a fine assortment of lathes you all have. The Monarch's are Art Deco beauties! All the old American lathes are like going to a vintage car show, really cool stuff! ;D

Here are my two lathes. The first is a tiny Shunde Shine micro lathe. It came as an "8-in-1" set that can be configured from lathe, to mill, to table saw, and many others. It would not turn metal very well, however. But wood and plastic, it was fine.

My next lathe is the Sieg 9x20, Harbor Freight color version. I installed a stiffer compound mounting plate and a QC tool post. The QC is actually designed for the smaller 7x10 lathes but it works okay on the 9x20. I have a larger QC system but it needs a custom part made in order to be able to mount it.


----------



## pete

Those Boley, Harrison and Hardinge lathe pictures, Pure tool porn. Beautiful equipment.

Pete


----------



## BillTodd

That Micro Machine looks and interesting and useful device.

How do the clamps that join the T slot work? 

Bill


----------



## Kmot

Hi Bill,
I'm sorry but I don't quite understand your question. Actually, I don't understand a lot about my machines. :big:

Here is the website for the company that makes this micro machine, perhaps that may help?

http://www.xendoll.com/En/


----------



## MachineTom

This is a Monarch 10EE ebay purchase, removed tube drive and DC motor. Replace them with a 5hp Black Max motor and VFD. The backgear was retained and fitted to the new motor, a project in itself. Speeds in direct drive from 50-4000rpm, in backgear 1/6 those speeds. I chose to add a New Bison 6 jaw chuck, how nice it is to have a new chuck rather than a 50 year old sloppy one.








This is a Myford super 7, a gift from a retiring friend. His dad bought it new in 1959, it had a tough life, no lube, many crashes, botched repairs. But today with a freshly machined bed, replaced busted gears, broken bolts, and fittted bronze crossfeed nut, it works decent. It is nice that the Myford company is still around to provide spares for the old stuff, $$$ but available.


----------



## Hal

Tom
Great machines.
On your EE what is the second thread plate below you control dials ?
Is it for metric threads ? Were you lucky enough to have a metric set of gears come with the lathe ? 
How do you like the Black Max motor drive?

Hal


----------



## MachineTom

Yes, the second plate is for metric threading, I purchased a metric set of gears from Miller Machine, who had made up a batch. Very handy when needed, just not needed enough now that I'm out of the MC business.

The Black Max is a fine motor, inverter rated, with a thermo switch which is wired to the VFD. Only once popped the thermo, too slow and too deep in direct will do that. On the 10EE you need to extend the motor shaft about an inch, and machine out the splines in the drive motor gear, cut a keyway in the drive gear, and make a plate which bolts all together. A bit of work but not difficult.

The drive is an Hitachi SJ200 which is a great unit, lots of parameters to tweak the unit. This EE has ELSR, and I added a switch which will double the reverse speed when rewinding for thread cutting. The sensorless encoding works really well, as you load the motor you can here the frequency boost to keep the rpm stable, great feature.


----------



## Hal

Tom 

A question about the switch you added to double the reverse speed.
Is the switch something like a toggle switch, thats operated manualy, or is it a switch thats automatic, once set?

Hal


----------



## MachineTom

On this lathe the Fwd/Rev are micro switches that control the VFD. A wire from the reverse switch goes to a toggle sw, which then goes to the logic input term, when that term sees a signal it adds to the freq a set amount.

When the toggle is on it will increase the reverse speed each time reverse is enabled. off reverse is normal.

Any VFD could be made to do this (if capable of course).


----------



## RMS

Great lathe pics guys, I love the old restored classics! The little things are nice on the old lathes nice hand wheels that actually felt good to hold! This quality is lost in the current cost to compete but soon I hope will come back again when quality and craftsmanship was King! But for now here is what I use, since I am not a machinist by trade I had to get a machine I could handle myself, and fit into my small work area. But despite it all, it does basic stuff well enough for me. Its the MicroLux 7x14 mini lathe, with the A2Z tool post.

Happy New Years!
Rob


----------



## lazylathe

So many amazing lathes to drool over!!
Wish i had more space to put a few more!

Here is my latest aquisition.
A Myford ML7 from 1960 in original paint and amazing condition.

















I have some extra parts on order from the UK and they should make life a bit easier!
New 3 jaw chuck, a QCTP from Myford and a few other goodies!

Andrew


----------



## GWRdriver

Spurry  said:
			
		

> Having looked through the thread from the start, I did not see many Harrisons??? - Pete


Pete,
You are not entirely alone, here is my M250, imported in 1985. Not only was the exchange rate very favorable at that time but IMHO Harrisons had underpriced the M250 for what it was and relative to other machines on the market. There are a couple of design idiosynchrasies which should have been done differently, having to change gears to access the full range of feeds is one, but all-in-all I think I got very good value for my money. I installed an ET/meter when it was deliverd and I have approx 500 hours on the machine. It's dirty today from turning cast iron.


----------



## pete

Hi Harry, How's retirement?

Thanks for your Harrison pictures, I'd love to own one but have major size/weight issues. I'd personally have to lump Harrisons in with Monarch EEs, Rivetts, and Hardinge. I've never even seen one in person but from the little I've seen and read about them, They've always seemed to be a very well designed and heavy duty lathe. Sad to find out their now made in China, But if the manufacterer adheres to Harrisons specs. they should still be good. Yours was obviously built in the U.K. 

Pete


----------



## krv3000

HI well this is my emco compact 8 I was given the lathe the laths history is a bit of a gray eria it spent most of its time testing the print on cooker knobs the lathe was set up to run slow the knob fitted on to a shaft held in the 3 jaw where the compound slide shod of bin their was a spring loaded gizmo with a felt wheel on the end which when set up rubbed on the knob their was a counter on it if say after 50 turns the print cam off then that bach of knobs wood be scrap


----------



## GWRdriver

pete  said:
			
		

> Hi Harry, How's retirement?


Pete,
I'm actually just now getting to the part where I can do what I need to do on my own schedule, and there will no doubt be more adjustments to make, but I think I'm going to enjoy it. I've certainly begun spending more time in the workshop

As for mentioning Harrison in the same breath as Monarchs, Rivetts, and Hardinges, I'm not sure I would agree to that. Perhaps at one time, but if my machine is any indication Harrison is a step below those three. Although I've never seen one, from what I've read I think a Dean Smith & Grace might be their equal or better.


----------



## pete

Harry,
LOL,When you own a Chinese built lathe a Harrison deserves to be included with the lathes I mentioned.

Pete


----------



## mimoletti

This is my Wabeco D6000.


----------



## ttrikalin

Wabeco, huh?

niiiiiiiiice!

serious tool envy

take care, 
tom


----------



## gt2ride

I have added 4 more lathes to my collection. The rest are located on page one post #11





Myford





Super Adept





Unimate SL DB200






Haighton Cadet


----------



## lazylathe

WOW!! I love the Super Adept! It is really cool!

How many lathes do you have now?
You can open a lathe museum and charge entrance!!! :big:
Great collection by the way!!

Andrew



			
				gt2ride  said:
			
		

> I have added 4 more lathes to my collection. The rest are located on page one post #11
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Myford
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super Adept
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unimate SL DB200
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haighton Cadet


----------



## gt2ride

Andrew

I have 16 lathes, I forgot to take a pic of the last one
It is a Pannent lathe. Will try to get a pic so I can post it

Leon


----------



## agmachado

Hello Guys,

Is with great pride that I publishes pictures of my first lathe!

It arrived here in São Paulo today. I assembled and tested... ready for use!

Now I need of a table for it. The table that I have reverberates the noise... Maybe a solid and heavy table will help!











Here... I talking with we friend Andrew (lazylathe) by MSN...















Take care,

Alexandre


----------



## steamer

HI Alexandre,

Congratulations Friend!

A lathe bench can never be too heavy.  A heavy table with a "butcher block top" would be ideal.

Two layers of 19mm plywood would be just fine also.

Dave


----------



## NickG

or just bolt it down where it is! :big:


----------



## Deanofid

Alexandre, that's a very nice lathe! I had that model for years. Did a lot of work with it.
Congratulations!


----------



## steamer

NickG  said:
			
		

> or just bolt it down where it is! :big:



SWMBO will need to be consulted on this! :big:

Alexandre, SWMBO is a secret code understood by all lathe owners ( its a cult really!) Now that your one, you need to be let in on it 

It means She WHo Must Be Obeyed!....start drilling holes in that table and you can show us the scars after they heal! :big:

Dave


----------



## MikeA

Hello Alexandre,

Congratulations on your new lathe! They have an excellent reputation and much very fine work has been done on them. 

Definitely get a solid table to use with the lathe, as said previously, the heavier the better.

Insofar as SWMBO - no problem! Just take her out for several caipirinha Ypioca or 61 and some churrascaria and she'll forgive your covering the floor with sharp metal shards!

Best,
Mike


----------



## starlight_tools

Here are the lathes that I have had over the years

The Craftsman 109 was my first metal lathe, I built the stand and installed a 2 speed motor on it. Worked well but out grew it quite quickly.

My mentor found me the Logan 9B28-61 from a colleage that had closed his shop due to medical reasons and I ran that lathe for many years. It did most of what I wanted, but every so often I just needed that extra inch or so.

I recently sold the Logan and picked up the Gosan 1440V 3 Hp VFD Drive made in Taiwan by Gosan Machine works also know as Shye Sheng. This is the factory that makes the new Colchester and Sharpe Lathes. Really nice lathe, came with factory installed 2 Axis Accurite DRO, Taper Attacment and most of the options. I have it mounted on FootMaster Castors so when I need to roll it away from the wall I can, but i can quickly level it for accurate use.

Walter


----------



## starlight_tools

This is another view of the lathe and the cluttered shop

Walter


----------



## deadin

Good Grief.... This has turned into a long thread................ 

Anyway, I may have a chance at an old (late 1930's early 1940's) South Bend B9W.
It looks well used but seemed to still to be tight and mostly there. Don't know if all of the change gears are there.
It's going to take a lot of cleaning and looks like a fun project. (If I can find room for it.)

What should I be looking for and any idea how much should I have to pay???
(I did find a similar one on Ebay for $800, but it looked in much better condition.)


----------



## mcruff

My 1943 (War production) B model South Bend 9" x 36" . I converted it about 3 years ago to an A model.


----------



## IronHorse

Nice Lathe, love the old stuff!


IronHorse


----------



## lathe nut

I like dat a lot me, Lathe Nut


----------



## rake60

mcruff

That is *NICE!*


Rick


----------



## Sparticusrye

Here is my little lathe. Craftex 10X18, Model B2227L. I have the 3 & 4 Jaw chucks for it and a faceplate. I've done several parts on it and so far I'm happy with it. I'll be making a chip tray for it as soon as I find some time as it makes a pretty nice mess of the space behind it. You can see the old non-sparking persuader on the tool board behind it. Was a project I made in one of my early courses at work. The last course I took was a Naval machinist course, used to be called machinist specialist, and the final project is the drill press.


----------



## slkride

Nice find hope you get as much use(fun) as I have from mine SB 9A 1946 model, Dad bought it new in 46 was a real trick back then War years ya know. Just put a freq drive on it,best move I made other than DRO I added a couple years ago. 


                                                               Tom


----------



## Florian

On page 25 of this thread, i was showing some pictures of the restoration of my lathe. 

Now i have completed all the (little) jobs that still needed to be done and the result is: 




















Here you can see the guideqay guards; they are very useful because the chips will not fall on the guides and stick on the oil..: 













And this is a picture of the first test on my (almost) new machine: 






Oh and the lathe is a Schaublin 102 VM, a Swiss precision toolroom-lathe (as it is called in the manual ;D )

Florian


----------



## ttrikalin

Ah, this is a beauty, Florian. 
Any pictures before the restoration?

take care

tom in MA


----------



## Florian

Yes, there is a picture on page 25 (as mentioned in my post just before, the two words "page 25" are a link to page 25...  )


----------



## ttrikalin

Of course. 
 ;D

pretty impressive transformation!

tom


----------



## steamer

That's beautiful! I love 102's.

Did you ever hear from Carl regarding the model steamship engines?

Dave


----------



## Florian

what model steamship engines? ???

I did not build any steamship engines yet... :

Florian


----------



## mgbrv8

Here is my HLV-H I completely rebuilt it. I replaced every bearing but the spindles they were in great shape. I closed every tolerance i could, a tech guy at hardinge when he heard my backlash numbers told me it was a tighter machine then new . Thats always nice to hear.


----------



## hdwrench1

My KBC 9 x 20 with the 4 bolt tool post conversion, tumbler reverse , Bison 5 inch 3 jaw chuck. I will do the QCTP conversion this fall when I have some more time.


Cheers Wayne


----------



## RManley

My ML7 - used for everything and was well worth the money. Currently screwcutting a 32tpi thread on the end of my bike hubs:




Would not swap it for the world.


----------



## excalibus

Well mine is a little SEIG C2 lathe... Have not done a lot with it at this stage beyond clean it up and check it out... I did make tool holder for some carbide tips I purchased off ebay last weekend and it works a treat 

I am also building a pretty beefy bench for it as well as leaving room to add an X2 milling machine...


----------



## AR1911

steamer  said:
			
		

> The 12" Logan turning gear blanks. Former trade school machine with few miles on her. Made a #2-126 tap on it for a friend of mines Model engine carb once by single point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dave



Dave - you've got my lathe!!

I've been looking for a Logan Powermatic ever since I got my MVN mill. 
It really needs a proper mate. also looking for a PM drillpress to match.


----------



## steamer

Hey 1911!

OK so you used to own MY lathe?, or  you want to buy my lathe?  or  You have a lathe just like mine?
 ;D

Dave


----------



## AR1911

I want a lathe just like yours - Logan Powermatic by Houdaille - to match my mill.
I'm envious ;D

I have a shop full of lathes right now, and I'm about to clean house. If a Logan Powermatic shows up soon, I'll buy it. 
Otherwise I'll order a new Asian lathe to be named later.


----------



## steamer

Cool! I've grown to really like the Logan Powermatic. It has a few quirks....but is generally a pretty good lathe!

Dave


----------



## Laundrew

My "new-to-me" Monarch 10EE






Be well...


----------



## rkepler

Laundrew  said:
			
		

> My "new-to-me" Monarch 10EE



That's a pretty early one, pre-40's unless I miss my guess. Might be (or have been) one of the original hydraulic drives from Sunstrand.

I rebuilt a '56 including grinding the bed and refitting everything on top, I think it came out OK:


----------



## Laundrew

rkepler  said:
			
		

> That's a pretty early one, pre-40's unless I miss my guess. Might be (or have been) one of the original hydraulic drives from Sunstrand.



Greetings, 

1942 model with the DC motor/generator combination. I am going to upgrade the drive system to a 3 phase motor - VFD system. Nice Monarch you have there :bow:

Be well...


----------



## velocette

Spin Doctor  said:
			
		

> Well, there's a Jet 9x20 (we all know what they look like. An Elgin split bed turret lathe that I plan on using for a small wood lathe. IMO most wood lathes spindles are POS. Then I have my "project" lathe. A PM 1027 that I am going to modify substancially. New spindle with integral 5C collets, reversing dog clutch system, quick retract on the compound, electronically variable feeds and a number of other things. Right now the headstock is off and the rest of the lathe tore down for moving. A Hardinge or Monarch it ain't but then I don't think I could get a 10EE in the basement
> 
> The Elgin on moving day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The "project" lathe prior to removing the spindle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Picked this Link on a browse through "Show us you lathe" An old thread for sure. Looking at the picture of Your 10 x 27 project lathe it looks to be identical to mine. I got stuck into modifying it and have had a lot of satisfaction doing it. now to bore you with the mods done.
> Motor replaced with "Baldor 1 H.P D C with Variable Speed Kb Electronic Controler KBCCR at 180 volt dc
> Poly Vee belt drive with motor mounted under the bed
> 
> Recirculating Oil Pump with Filter feeding to fabricated oil gallery in the gear box lid (Perspex 2 Sheets with galley milled into Lower one and drilled to spray oil to all bearings and gears screwed and glued together)
> 
> Runs very quietly and smoothly. No chattering Single Phase Motor and flood lubrication a vast improvement.
> 
> Rev Counter (Bicycle Computer Programmed to 167 cm circumference) Magnet Trip on lathe spindle will read to 3000 RPM
> 
> QCTP and Toolholders
> 
> Ball bearing cross slide and top slide. All jib adjusting screws with 3 mm ball bearing at the end of screw to push on jib
> Makes for a smooth operation
> 
> Cam Lock Tailstock. All hand wheels balanced
> 
> Lead screw with Variable speed drive from Gearhead DC motor 10 mm a minute to 55 mm minute advance or driven from spindle for screw cutting.
> Stop yawning I am finished for now


----------



## Niels Abildgaard

Hello Velocette

MZ made better motorbikes.
Apart from this PLEASE let us se some pictures of Your modifications

The Poly V transformation and electric leadscrew-drive are interesting .
I use Powertwist V belt and it is very good but the washing maschine uses poly and it is even less noise.
There is a picture of worlds best motorbike at end on

http://oldwww.iet.aau.dk/sec2/junkers.htm

Kind regards

Niels


----------



## velocette

Hi Niels 10:30 pm Local time Pictures later Need sleep and Bit of a tidy up Also having a problem with Exceeding My Quota with Internet Service Provider 

 Eric (velocette)


----------



## pcw

Florian  said:
			
		

> On page 25 of this thread, i was showing some pictures of the restoration of my lathe.
> 
> Now i have completed all the (little) jobs that still needed to be done and the result is:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here you can see the guideqay guards; they are very useful because the chips will not fall on the guides and stick on the oil..:
> 
> Oh and the lathe is a Schaublin 102 VM, a Swiss precision toolroom-lathe (as it is called in the manual ;D )
> 
> Florian



those old schaublins are very hard to beat by any manufactorer if it comes to lathes. I love how you restore it. now tell me where you live and when nobody is at home so i can come and take it


----------



## velocette

This is my modifications to a 10 X 27 lathe Please bear with me if I repeat from a previous Quote from "Spin Doctor" 

Hi Picked this Link on a browse through "Show us you lathe" An old thread for sure. Looking at the picture of Your 10 x 27 project lathe it looks to be identical to mine. I got stuck into modifying it and have had a lot of satisfaction doing it. now to bore you with the mods done.
Motor replaced with "Baldor 1 H.P D C with Variable Speed Kb Electronic Controler KBCCR at 180 volt dc 
Poly Vee belt drive with motor mounted under the bed

Recirculating Oil Pump with Filter feeding to fabricated oil gallery in the gear box lid (Perspex 2 Sheets with galley milled into Lower one and drilled to spray oil to all bearings and gears screwed and glued together)

Runs very quietly and smoothly. No chattering Single Phase Motor and flood lubrication a vast improvement.

Rev Counter (Bicycle Computer Programmed to 167 cm circumference) Magnet Trip on lathe spindle will read to 3000 RPM

QCTP and Toolholders 

Ball bearing cross slide and top slide. All jib adjusting screws with 3 mm ball bearing at the end of screw to push on jib
Makes for a smooth operation 

Cam Lock Tailstock. All hand wheels balanced 

Lead screw with Variable speed drive from Gearhead DC motor 10 mm a minute to 55 mm minute advance or driven from spindle for screw cutting. 
Stop yawning I am finished for now 
Request for Photos here goes


----------



## cd600

I picked up this lathe because of it's capacity and it is in good nik.,












[imghttp://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff381/cd600/lathe/saddlegears.jpg]http://[/img]


----------



## Xlmyford

Mine is a Myford Super 7,made in 1973.
It came with a Norton gearbox.













I bought this British beauty in 2009.
Over the last two years I did some modifications to it,making it even more handy
than it has been anyway.

Axa QCTP and a rear toolpost:







SINO DRO:














I really love that lathe and it´s so sad that the Myford Company is now history.

Cheers,Ralph


----------



## Florian

pcw  said:
			
		

> now tell me where you live and when nobody is at home so i can come and take it



Allright; it can be found on Area 51 ;D
-> If i were you i would not try to get there... 8)

Cheers 
Florian


----------



## Xlmyford

I never knew that area 51 is located in switzerland 8)
Florian,do You know what happened to Pinoccio?
Cheers,Ralph


----------



## Florian

Who sais my lahte is where i am..? ;D


----------



## dsquire

Florian

Good Answer. 

Cheers 

Don


----------



## wpala

Wow
Some nice looking lathes you got there hay if you ever want to unload one of our SB 10L I'll be happy to buy it off you...


			
				gt2ride  said:
			
		

> Here is my collection of Lathes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LeBlond Regal 10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SB 10K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Craftsman 6in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logan 10in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Levin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Atlas f10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monarch 10EE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SB 10L
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Myford
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Super Adept
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unimat SL200
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haighton Cadet


----------



## miner49r

This is the lathe police... According to local codes, you have over-reached your allotment of machinery. To avoid prosecution you can forfit the LeBlonde Regal 10 and we'll call it good.

That LeBlond is one sexy machine.






LeBlond Regal 10


----------



## Swede

This has been a fun thread to visit.

The older lathes from the 1930's to 1960 or so, with their art-deco castings, are simply into a visual class all their own. Those curves are so reminiscent of the machine era in which they were made. The new box-shaped lathes may have all their functionality, and are certainly easier to produce, but the "soul" isn't quite there.

But in the end - does it turn? Is it accurate? If so, that's what we need. (Also, mounting a DRO scale to a curved, art-deco casting is a b***h)!

I restored an ancient Hardinge HLV-B lathe, much like the H model, except a narrower bed. The dovetailed way is a solid piece of hardened tool steel. When I detached it for a regrind, I was told it was about 0.015" out... in other words, decades of heavy use had simply worn away that much hardened steel.

Hardinge lathes are a bit unique in that they have a separate DC motor on the apron that drives both feeds. They can be dialed down to crawl along so slowly you can barely see it move. VERY handy to be able to change the feed on the fly for best finish.

The rebuild was tough. Mechanically, I got it running well, but skimped on the paint. The gray enamel I used on the lathe is once again starting to flake, and the top of the headstock is down once again to bare iron. Makes me sad, but she's running true and the thought of tearing her down again just for paint - isn't worth it to me!

Thanks for all the great pics. It makes me want to go lathe shopping!


----------



## Mosey

Speaking of flake....what are those flaky reflections on the ways of that SB 10K???
Outrageous!
 :bow:I like it.


----------



## teslak

Hello,
Today I present my Lorch replica.




 It is equipped with ball bearings. 
In order to work better, I've made &#8203;&#8203;a quick-change toolholder for turning tools.















Best regards,
Dieter


----------



## miner49r

Dieter,
Three words... Nice, Nice, and Really Nice. (OK four words)

Nice Lathe
Nice Tool Post
Really Nice Work Station


----------



## stevehuckss396

I finally found a lathe!!!

One of the members of my metal club posted that he was interested in selling a Grizzly 4016. It's a 13-1/2 X 40 inch.
Came with 2 chucks, quick change, milling attachment, both rests, 12 inch face plate and 3 boxes of goodies.


It was purchased by a fellow who passed away a few months after buying it new. It was then purchased by the club member
who had a huge fire in his home and needed to replace his smoke damaged lathe. A short time after he purchased this one
he found his dream lathe and only used the Grizzly for 2 jobs. Basically this Grizzly is still brand new.

It is sitting in it's new home. I need to level it up and get it wired up. Now I might be able to tackle some larger projects
like the Lee Hodgson 9 cylinder.


----------



## moconnor

Hello Dieter (teslak),

Did you build the Lorch replica that you posted photos of on the previous page? It is a very beautiful lathe. Wonderful work all around.

Congratulations Steve,

That looks like a fine lathe. I will look forward to what you will accomplish with this larger machine. I too would like to build a Hodgson 9 Cylinder Radial Engine. I bought the drawing package and the casting at NAMES last year and really enjoyed talking with Lee and his wife while there. They are great people and he has a fantastic display at the model engineering shows that is complete with engines, drawings and numerous examples of his radial engine's internal parts. That is a man who is passionate about model engines.

Regards,
Mike


----------



## Swede

Congrats, Steve. My friend has that lathe and it's been a very good machine now for him, for several years. You will love the capacity, the HP, the ability to take big cuts.

If you are going to go for a radial, some form of 5C collet system would be an excellent addition. What is the spindle nose on yours?

Have fun!


----------



## stevehuckss396

Swede  said:
			
		

> What is the spindle nose on yours?




I'm not fimiliar with that term. I know the spindle has a MT5 taper.


----------



## steamer

Hey Steve,

He means what affixes the chucks ect to the spindle. In your case, from you picture, you have a Camlock spindle.

Probably a D1-4 or D1-5...though it could be smaller than a D1-4

That is the MOST ridgid way to put a chuck on a lathe....hands down.

It is a controlled interference fit between a tapered diameter and a vertical face.  

NICE SCORE!  you deserve a good lathe bud! :bow:

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396

Yes Steamer it is the D1-4. Not really sure what that means but if you say it's good, It's good!

Here is the spec sheet

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/specsheets/g4016_ds.pdf


----------



## steamer

http://www.pts-canada.com/Catalog_pdf/CANADA/CAN2012CATALOG/K1549.pdf

The chuck mounts on the 7 degree 7.5 minute taper and when you pull it home, it becomes an interferance fit on this taper and then simultaneously makes contact with the back vertical face of the spindle.  It's on the taper and face at the same time.

Very Rigid set up.

Dave


----------



## lazylathe

That's a beast of a lathe!!! ;D

I especially like the traffic light above to the right of the lathe!!
Is that the emergency stop warning light? :big:

Andrew


----------



## stevehuckss396

lazylathe  said:
			
		

> I especially like the traffic light above to the right of the lathe!!
> Is that the emergency stop warning light? :big:



That is a standard traffic signal. About 20 years ago I built a control board so it will be green for 30 seconds, amber for 5 seconds and red for 30 seconds and then back to green


----------



## kustomkb

Nice score Steve!

Mine is very similar, made in Taiwan, it's worked well for me.







Here are some pretty heavy cuts in aluminum nickel bronze;

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP4GZWUEJ3E[/ame]


----------



## tattoomike68

KustomKB  said:
			
		

> Nice score Steve!
> 
> Mine is very similar, made in Taiwan, it's worked well for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pretty heavy cuts in aluminum nickel bronze;
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rP4GZWUEJ3E



great video, I think you need Decaff coffee. :big:


----------



## stevehuckss396

KustomKB  said:
			
		

> Mine is very similar, made in Taiwan, it's worked well for me.



I see you have a DRO on that thing. Do you have any photo's of how you went about mounting it to both axes? My first order of bussiness will be finding and installing a DRO.


----------



## rake60

steamer  said:
			
		

> The chuck mounts on the 7 degree 7.5 minute taper and when you pull it home.



It's been awhile since I've seen that angle in print.
We used to cut a taper on a roller path for dragline circle that was 7 degrees, 7 minutes, 30 seconds.

Do the trigonometry on that angle. The tangent is an _almost perfect_ 1/8 inch per foot taper.
How original! 

Rick


----------



## kustomkb

Cheers Mike, decaf, well I try to keep a good pace.

Steve, the DRO came from work, it had a chip in the glass on the cross slide, where it would skip and lose count. It was outside of the travel of my lathe so I saved it from the scrap bin when we got a new one. After disassembly and cleaning it turned out to be a metal chip ;-) Oh well at least all the dro's at work match now.

I don't have any pictures, but I'll take some. I was very pleasantly surprised at how tough the casting was to drill.

The lathe has not seen much action lately. I have been doing home renovations and with our second child due in August, the clock is ticking...


----------



## kustomkb

Here are the DRO pics;

Both mount on dovetail brackets which are installed with counter bored/countersunk screws after shimming and dialing them in. The scales themselves slide in and are nipped in place with set-screws.



















Don't forget the stop to prevent damage;






And the gravity fed, cable return, pulley system;






Have fun!


----------



## Billzilla

Mine, at about six tonnes, is such a delicate little thing. 






It's got a magnetic XY sensor system on it though, so I can put the cutting tool back to within 0.001" quite accurately.


----------



## stevehuckss396

Billzilla  said:
			
		

> It's got a magnetic XY sensor system on it though, so I can put the cutting tool back to within 0.001" quite accurately.



I don't even know what that means but I know I want one!!!


----------



## Mosey

You just got one!


----------



## Sk8Ter




----------



## rhitee93

That Clausing is a beaut!


----------



## Sk8Ter

Xlmyford said:


> Mine is a Myford Super 7,made in 1973.
> It came with a Norton gearbox.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought this British beauty in 2009.
> Over the last two years I did some modifications to it,making it even more handy
> than it has been anyway.
> 
> Axa QCTP and a rear toolpost:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SINO DRO:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really love that lathe and it´s so sad that the Myford Company is now history.
> 
> Cheers,Ralph




Hello Ralph was wondering how much better(more ridged) your new 40 position tool post compares to the old style myford ?

also what are the inherent advantages? myford style? etc...

Thanks

Lawrence


----------



## Sk8Ter

the Colchester makes the Hendey lathe look like a toy!


----------



## ian99

I am a rank beginner with just a Sieg C2 7x12 and an X2 mill, but I am very impressed with the range of beautiful machinery shown here.

But, eat your heart out!!
Has anybody seen a Hebrug??
This is a Hebrug DR1 11x30 precision toolmakers lathe from Holland.
I was offered for free if I could take it away, but alas there was no way I could get it into my basement workshop. A friend bought it for $250 and moved it by lowloader.


----------



## Shawn

I joined this site after spending a few hours looking through this post and all the amazing lathes you folks own. I rebuilt a 1945 SB 9B, the color won't be everyone's cup of tea but I like it. 

When I get a few spare minutes I'll post a proper introduction.

Shawn






I also have a 1932 Atlas 9" awaiting restoration.






And what started it all for me, a little Unimat 3


----------



## chbeyer

Hi,

so, here is my contribution to this murderthread, nothing too exciting though I'm afraid  

My first one was a proxxon pd 360, a popular brand for small precision lathes in germany. Followed by a myford super 7 with extra long bed (makes a good rest for the tailstock  )

cheers
christoph


----------



## Sk8Ter

Ok guys been waiting for this to show up..Imported from the UK...and what a mess with customs etc...I would never ship slow boat over the pond again!! ..but the good new is I love this lathe ...

If anyone is interested in knowing ...this Lathe will do ALMOST everything you could ever want...It will take heavy cuts without complaint...next up is to add a VFD! 












304 stainless bolt heavy cuts .100 diam


----------



## robcas631

chbeyer said:


> Hi,
> 
> so, here is my contribution to this murderthread, nothing too exciting though I'm afraid
> 
> My first one was a proxxon pd 360, a popular brand for small precision lathes in germany. Followed by a myford super 7 with extra long bed (makes a good rest for the tailstock  )
> 
> cheers
> christoph


 
Excellent!


----------



## SHARPSHOOTER90

macona said:


> Comparing the Emco to a shoptask is like comparing a BMW Motorcycle to a little chinese scooter.
> 
> Heres a pic of my toy... Just finished going through her.
> 
> For those who dont know its a Monarch 10EE



One thing you have to remember in comparing your Monarch to any of the current small machines from China, is that your machine was built during WW II when the US was gearing up for war production and there was no consideration for cost.  Your machine was built with tax dollars.  If you were to try and build a similar machine in today's market, the price would be so high that only the top 1% could afford one.


----------



## ksouers

SHARPSHOOTER90 said:


> One thing you have to remember in comparing your Monarch to any of the current small machines from China, is that your machine was built during WW II when the US was gearing up for war production and there was no consideration for cost.  Your machine was built with tax dollars.  If you were to try and build a similar machine in today's market, the price would be so high that only the top 1% could afford one.



Not entirely true.
The 10EE was already in production before the war broke out. So it was already an off-the-shelf item. Yes, production did ramp up because of the war effort, as did ALL necessary machine production. But the war (and government) did not create the 10EE, it was already there and it was affordable by industry before and well after the war.

The 10EE was in regular production up through the 1990's, though very limited by then.

Monarch equipment was never intended for the hobbyist market. The smaller Chinese machines are.

It is my understanding that Monarch still has castings laying about and all the patterns. Rumor has it they will make one by customer order.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/monarch/page2.html



> the price would be so high that only the top 1% could afford one.


That is true of ALL high quality INDUSTRIAL equipment when brand new.
Your statement also has a political overtone. Please leave the politics elsewhere.


----------



## SHARPSHOOTER90

Not sure what your reference to political overtones is all about, but I agree the Monarch was in production before the war, but only affordable to professional machine shops- the price was way out of reach for any home shop.  After the war, their production dropped back to prior levels and even less, as they had a lot of unused wartime parts sitting on shelves.  
The title of this forum is the HOME MODEL ENGINE MACHINIST, so you shouldn't compare professional production machines to low cost machines designed for the home machinist.


----------



## catproc

Hey guys, I'm new in here ,My lathe is Emco Maximat Super 11 with mill


----------



## abby

Getting older and feeling the cold , I thought it would be nice to be able to work in the comfort of our kitchen.
I make stuff for a living so having a day off because it's too cold in the workshop is not an option.
some small machines light enough to carry , or fitted with wheels would be ideal , wheel 'em in and out as needed but what machines !
I have an ML7 but a clockmakers lathe could do the very small and accurate turning.
Keeping an eye on the net I eventually bought this ......cheap !






I took a risk but reckoned worst way I could sell the collets for more than the asking price.

The  rust came off with wire wool and paraffin and after some preparation she got some paint.






It is fitted onto a plywood cabinet with a 3 phase motor fitted inside and inverter speed control.








these machines had many fittings and I have collected a form and cut-off slide and a 6 station capstan turret too.
The turret tooling is just like the big machines.........but small.
I have also gathered two boxes of 3/16" square HSS , genuine Mushet and Mo-max
It is a dream to use with silky smooth hand scraped slides and capable of working to 1/2 a thou consistently.
Still in the workshop though ! need some production work for it.


----------



## SilverSanJuan

Wow, that was quite a find.  Nice rebuild too.

Todd


----------



## lathe nut

Guess I should post this in the proper place, yes I did get another lathe, promised my wife no more but this one needed a home, well she takes care of dogs and cats until she finds them a home and I am doing the same with the lahtes, but someone will have to come and get them when I am gone, this is a Leymann, Model 2013 (20 inch swing, 13 foot between centers) built in 1933 and was shipped to T&P Iron works in Sulphur Louisiana, did find out that the building is still there, going to get by there and see if I can find out more infomation, wish I could find someone that run it that would be neat, I have all the parts moving will only have to make the shifting handle and on dog lever inside the head stock, the Lehmann people were so wonderful to talk to, they are going to send me information on this lathe going to have fun with the cleaning of it, not looking forward to that, Lathe Nut


----------



## mgbrv8

Is that a Harbor Freight roll/shear/break. How do you like it?

Dave





Billzilla said:


> Mine, at about six tonnes, is such a delicate little thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's got a magnetic XY sensor system on it though, so I can put the cutting tool back to within 0.001" quite accurately.


----------



## bb218

They were dirty when I took the photos. Mike


----------



## jimchelt

Hello to all members
I'm 66, too fat, bald but still interested in almost anything technical. I'm constantly amazed by what men in sheds can do with fairly modest equipment and have been inspired by a neighbour to 'have a go' myself. So, here is a picture of my little lathe. It's a Lorch LL-S, a very nice instrument makers machine. I am open to all advice ( and encouragement) and will be visiting this great site for inspiration and sheer delight in what can be done.
Jim
(based in Cheltenham in the UK)


----------



## Cheshire Steve

Seeking something small for delicate work I picked up this lathe. I sent the details to Tony Griffiths (of www.lathes.co.uk) and he hadn't seen one before so posted it on his 'unknown' list (http://www.lathes.co.uk/unknown66/). Almost certainly home-made it is not clear if it was made from a kit or based on an article in one of the magazines, or a complete one-off - but the use of cast-in-place white metal bearings and similarly secured twin bar bed seems both unusual and yet quite a practical way to get a precision lathe without precision boring equipment. It has been kicked around and the bed bars are out of line and one headstock bearing is missing, but when I get some Babbitt metal and some new bed bars I should be able to remake it as it was intended.

If anyone knows of anything like it, I would be very interested to find out.


----------



## Tin Falcon

some sort of  "Kit lathe" i remember seeing somthing similar. this one is sort of similar but also different a "Counin" ??

[URL="http://books.google.com/books?id=ReMDAAAAMBAJ&pg=PA182&lpg=PA182&dq=lathe+kit&source=bl&ots=Y3TtN4hfFz&sig=NxXw4_ua2DWjfQRyu-THVfTonmo&hl=en&sa=X&ei=GNhFUJaoA-e66wG7nIGYDg&ved=0CFkQ6AEwBw#v=onepage&q=l"Student project model makers Lathe[/URL]
Tin


----------



## Cheshire Steve

Thanks for the link to Practical Mechanics - hadn't seen that article, though plenty of Emco Unimat's around with twin bar bed (and cross-slide too), which look similar. I have been wondering about making a spacer piece for the tail end and adding a lead-screw. So this could end up even more similar.

The odd thing here is that the crude facing of the headstock casting suggests the maker didn't have any precision equipment. Instead, all the alignment was achieved by casting in place. A bit of research suggests that using a smoky candle to soot up a polished headstock spindle, it is possible to cast the bearing in place and leave a perfectly fitted spindle. The way bars are secured in the headstock by casting in place, presumably using tinning or turned grooves to ensure they are securely held. The tailstock white metal is again cast in place. Provided you jig to make the bars flat and parallel before casting, it seems a way to make an accurate tool using crude tools, which is fairly clever.

You mentioned 'Counin' - can't find a reference to that. There was a larger lathe design by Henry Greenly that used poured in place white metal bearings for headstock and tailstock (that was about 1915), and a similar design in a book by Raymond Francis Yates in 1922 which had twin bar bed. There is some info here : http://www.lathes.co.uk/greenly/

Yates' book is on-line, this link might work. The chapter shows a twin-bar larger lathe and the bearings being poured in situ.
http://www.archive.org/stream/laworkforbeginn00yategoog#page/n196/mode/2up

It is almost as if the principle in this book has been adapted to make a watchmaker's lathe. Back in the 1920 and 1930s, pouring white metal in place to make bearings was quite commonplace - so it might easily be of that vintage.


----------



## lathe nut

Well its not a total lathe but one of those Smithy Midas 1220XL, combo's, I got it on Craig's list, it was a real good deal and cleaned up real nice, I always wanted one don't know much about them but it was cute, that fellow had a lot of things in those draws and those dies are all Left Hand thread ? this is the last one no more lathes, promise, that is what I told my Wife, she does not believe me ?


----------



## napoleonb

Cheshire Steve said:


> If anyone knows of anything like it, I would be very interested to find out.


 
At our school the wood-working department has got just such a little lathe but of a later date if i'd guess. No name or maker brand though. Yours seem to have been chopped as there had been another "foot" just a meter futher. Original those things were intended for turning wooden pegs for chairs or stairs, so they were quite long. Hope this helps a bit.


----------



## BritishReactionResearch

Hello,

All these shiny American lathes are very nice but I'm afraid there can be only one:-


----------



## peatrich

This is my old 1953 Myford ML7. I have a vertical slide, with an after market vice attached to it, at the moment, so that I can mill the cylinder of an engine to a pleasing shape. Obviously I have other shop tools as well, to complement it, but they aren't unusual enough to comment on.

I haven't owned the lathe for very long and I am finding using it a steep learning curve.  

Fortunately it has had a gentle life, apart from the fact that someone thought it would be a good idea to grind the end of the lathe bed at some time to accommodate something bigger than 7"diameter!

I am in the middle of building my first engine, an oscillator, and just wish I had started this hobby years ago - I'm six years older than the lathe and in far worse condition; I don't work without complaining and I'm nowhere near as accurate...


----------



## Cheshire Steve

napoleonb said:


> At our school the wood-working department has got just such a little lathe but of a later date if i'd guess. No name or maker brand though. Yours seem to have been chopped as there had been another "foot" just a meter futher. Original those things were intended for turning wooden pegs for chairs or stairs, so they were quite long. Hope this helps a bit.



Interesting thought - that would be something like a Coronet wood lathe, they have twin bar beds with the headstock just clamped to the bars, and a simple woodturners tool rest. The use of bars in place of a precision ground bed is a way to get a lathe bed at modest cost, though probably not quite as stiff as a large casting. Its a great way to make your own lathe. Coronet started making these in the 1970s, I am not sure if there were twin bar wood lathes before that - Coronets were single bar before the 1970s. I think Record and Sorby adopted the design too, it is probably a common design now, made in China and badged differently in every country.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/coronet major/page4.html

My lathe came from a clockmakers workshop which also contained some very fine watchmakers/clockmakers lathes - which I couldn't afford. Watch and clock makers do often use a simple tool rest, not unlike a wood turner's rest, with a tool called a graver - although much smaller scale of course. However I really doubt this is an adapted wood lathe, though it would be interesting to know when twin bar bed wood lathes first came out.


----------



## BritishReactionResearch

Hello Peatrich,

Thats a lovely old Myford. I have seen that gap bed "modification" on others too, sometimes not completed as elegantly as on yours. Do you find that your machine turns parallel alright? 

Odd to think of the age of some of the machines we use. My Harrison M250 is a mere whippersnapper at 30 years old!


----------



## peatrich

BritishReactionResearch said:


> Hello Peatrich,
> 
> Thats a lovely old Myford. I have seen that gap bed "modification" on others too, sometimes not completed as elegantly as on yours. Do you find that your machine turns parallel alright?



Hi
I spent some time checking it over before I bought it and I think it has either had fairly light use, or has been looked after and maintained.  I spent some time stripping, cleaning and setting up the slides to make sure they were adjusted properly when I got it home and I'm very happy with it. In the picture I'm using a 3 jaw for skimming brass bar to shape and if anything that is where any inaccuracy lies.

kind regards

Peter


----------



## albertorc19

This is my 7X12 lathe sold in Mexico by Phase II. It is the same Mini Lathe available for model engineers around the world under different labels but it is the same lathe made by Central Machinery in China. Not a bad piece of equipment if a Myford, Emco or a similar lathe is out of your league. I made the bench myself.


----------



## Propforward

That's a nice lathe - but I have to say WOW to the bench. That is a very fine piece of craftsmanship.


----------



## albertorc19

Propforward said:


> That's a nice lathe - but I have to say WOW to the bench. That is a very fine piece of craftsmanship.



Thanks a lot for your comments, it was fun to make the bench and quite economical also. I see myself as a "right angle carpenter" since I only make simple woodworking projects using square assemblies with woodscrews and off the shelf hardware, no fancy finish or decorations, just a plain, simple, useful bench.


----------



## lathe nut

There sure are some nice looking lahtes on the post, I think that I would some day like to have a Myford, might run across one always looking.

albertorc19  Like your set up, going to build something for my Smithy, really like your but that is a lot of work to build that one, love all the draws, nice real nice.


----------



## skyline1

Hi Peatrich

My ML7 is 1953 too Serial no K23999, What's the serial No on yours they may have been built at the same time.

3 jaw chucks always have a little run out but it can be corrected a little by turning the backplate very slightly undersize ( about 5 to 10 thou')
you can then adjust the chuck slightly against the backplate before tightening the bolts fully. Put a piece of bar in the chuck, check it with a D.T.I. and tap the chuck gently with something soft until it runs concentric. That's what I did with mine and it worked great.

Regards Mark


----------



## peatrich

skyline1 said:


> Hi Peatrich
> 
> My ML7 is 1953 too Serial no K23999, What's the serial No on yours they may have been built at the same time.
> 
> 3 jaw chucks always have a little run out but it can be corrected a little by turning the backplate very slightly undersize ( about 5 to 10 thou')
> you can then adjust the chuck slightly against the backplate before tightening the bolts fully. Put a piece of bar in the chuck, check it with a D.T.I. and tap the chuck gently with something soft until it runs concentric. That's what I did with mine and it worked great.
> 
> Regards Mark



Hi Mark
Yours is even older than mine! The number is K27438.
Thank you for the advice for truing the chuck, well worth trying
Kind regards
Peter


----------



## HairyCannonball

My machines are kind of pedestrian compared to the beautiful Hardinge and Monarch lathes some of you have but anyway. The first is a 10 inch Logan that I have had for 23 years. I paid the whopping sum of $150.00 for it, and although it had about 6 coats of brushed on paint of various colors  it was in very good condition mechanically.  The middle is the first maximat S11 I bought, had it about 5 years, and the bottom maximat I bought earlier this spring. The maximats are set up with a Teco jnev vfd, thats what the extra control box on top is for.


----------



## Herbiev

http://emob1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff463/Herbiev1/Mobile Uploads/IMG_7992.jpg
Just thought I'd post a picture of my oriental pride and joy. The thing I like most is the 38mm or 1 1/2" bore. Thanks for looking.


----------



## sn00zerman

Hi all,

Early Christmas present from my wife for me:





She also bought lots of additional tools for me. (I already own a CNC milling machine and 50W CO2 laser, mostly used for H0 modelrailroading, but with lathe I'm a completely beginner)

Check out my website in the "Technology" section for more info,
or check the "Railway" section for our outdoor railway and live-steam projects.

** Merry Christmas everybody  **

best regards from Belgium,
Kris


----------



## Propforward

Here are a couple of shots of my own lathe. A Grizzly 9249. They don't make this particular one any more. I always felt that this machine really offered a lot of features for the price, being as it has metric and imperial threading capability, plus it is a gap bed, back gear machine. It is a 12" X 37" tool.

I bought the biggest lathe that I could afford at the time, and I think this should be more than I need for the work I want to do.

I have had it for a few years, but have only just really started using it. I started my first engine build yesterday, and I am looking forward to a lot more time on it.
















One thing is for sure, I need to change the layout of where items are stored around the lathe. I need easier access to my micrometers and so on. Just a matter of properly arranging the support tooling.


----------



## Mosey

and your shop is too neat!


----------



## Propforward

I don't know about that - look - there's something on the floor under the shelves. That won't do at all.


----------



## Sk8Ter

Propforward said:


> Here are a couple of shots of my own lathe. A Grizzly 9249. They don't make this particular one any more. I always felt that this machine really offered a lot of features for the price, being as it has metric and imperial threading capability, plus it is a gap bed, back gear machine. It is a 12" X 37" tool.
> 
> I bought the biggest lathe that I could afford at the time, and I think this should be more than I need for the work I want to do.
> 
> I have had it for a few years, but have only just really started using it. I started my first engine build yesterday, and I am looking forward to a lot more time on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing is for sure, I need to change the layout of where items are stored around the lathe. I need easier access to my micrometers and so on. Just a matter of properly arranging the support tooling.




very nice lathe do you remember what they cost? and 12" swing but when you remove the bed whats the largest diam you can swing?

Lawrence


----------



## johan jorez

Optmum 300 x 1000 





330 mm between bed and 1000mm between centers 
bought second hand couple years ago with 3 axis dro 
original with 400 volt tri-phase motor  now vfd ( teco )


----------



## Propforward

Sk8Ter said:


> very nice lathe do you remember what they cost? and 12" swing but when you remove the bed whats the largest diam you can swing?
> 
> Lawrence


 
It was $2800.00 in 2008. The swing over the gap is 18 7/8" according to the spec sheet, so it should be capable of a decent range of jobs. I opted for this tool because by going with a more basic belt drive tool, I was able to keep a decent range of features for the price.

It also came with 4 jaw chuck, faceplate, live center, 2 dead centers, plus follow and steady rests, a couple of toolposts and also the steel stand. A pretty good all round package I thought.

I have a quick change tool post from a Myford lathe I am going to fit to it as well, which I think will be a nice set up for the smaller work I will be doing.

One thing that has been bugging me is to check the center position of the tailstock, I really need to do that.


----------



## radial1951

SHARPSHOOTER90 said:


> Not sure what your reference to political overtones is all about, but I agree the Monarch was in production before the war, but only affordable to professional machine shops- the price was way out of reach for any home shop.  After the war, their production dropped back to prior levels and even less, as they had a lot of unused wartime parts sitting on shelves.
> The title of this forum is the HOME MODEL ENGINE MACHINIST, so you shouldn't compare professional production machines to low cost machines designed for the home machinist.


*
Hi SHARPSHOOTER, my first post was going to be pics of my lathes, but I think your post needs a comment. You are correct when you say that professional and hobby machines shouldn't be compared, but the title of this forum/thread does not exclude any type of machine, and Home Machinists do not necessarily buy low cost "hobby" lathes. Hobbyists spend as little as $300 to $10,000 and beyond on the machine of their dreams, new or 2nd hand. 
As industrial machines get older and the value goes down, we are more able to afford them. As long as you can get it in your workshop, then it's a home hobby machine!
We are all very proud of our lathes, and I guess the huge range of brands, sizes and "interesting" (?) colours  shown here, from kitchen table to "industrial" machines, proves just one thing: we love 'em all.
I'll get some pics together and show you my lathes, 9" and 10" SBs and a lovely WWI 10" P&W (soon to be cosmetically restored).

Best regards, RossG.
(radial1951)
__________________


----------



## Tin Falcon

Guys : 
lets not lose sight here. this is not a competition . or a brag post.  The lathe one owns is a matter of personal choice. 
Tin


----------



## Jeff-in-PA

Tin Falcon said:


> Guys :
> lets not lose sight here. this is not a competition . or a brag post.  The lathe one owns is a matter of personal choice.
> Tin


 
  If you have room and want a commercial machine, just keep an eye on Craigslist and local ebay auctions.

 I spent $1450 for my Monarch 12CK lathe with some tooling and a BXA qctp.  I looked for almost four months before I found a good machine at a decent price.


----------



## ninefinger

I posted in the Tools sub forum about my purchase of a Standard Modern 13-34 lathe a while back.  Well, now that its settled in my shop and I've put a DRO on it I'll show it off here.

So here it is.  I purchased the lathe without any chucks so I bought some from Grizzly - a three jaw with 2 piece reversible jaws, a 4 jaw and a 5C collet chuck.
The a I put a DRO on it from http://TheDROStore.com.






Here is the cross slide scale mounting.  Not super happy about where I mounted it but it was going to be a compromise one way or the other.  On the back its hiding the gib adjust screws for the cross slide and takes up about 1" of space for the tailstock, but the front side would have been subject to my clumsiness too much and would have been trashed in a heartbeat (crashed with powerfeed, things dropped, coolant spray,etc)






and the mount for the glass scale on Z (oops! I need to go find a third bolt and finish putting that together....)






I also converted it to 220VAC 3 phase motor with VFD as it was wired with a 550VAC 3 phase when I bought it.

What I find amusing now is that there is a plate on the saddle that clearly states the graduations are 0.001" on diameter, but on installing the DRO I found out the cross slide screw is metric pitch (0.200" on the dial is actually 0.1968" - or 5.00mm) .  Must be because it served in a school once in its life and was maybe pieced together from more than 1 machine or repaired but the wrong part ordered (hey were in Canada - it must be metric right - eh?)....

Also fitted a QC tool post, the BXA size, wedge type.  I can't live without a QC tool post...makes using the lathe a pleasure not a chore.

Mike


----------



## radial1951

Tin Falcon said:


> Guys :
> lets not lose sight here. this is not a competition . or a brag post.  The lathe one owns is a matter of personal choice.
> Tin


*
Umm... what competition? Bragging?  This forum/thread is for everything from low cost hobby lathes to ultimate toolroom machines, as can be seen by the posts.

From one of your previous posts:
"I have never heard of a Dean Smith & Grace lathe and would love to see photos. I hope you did not mean to have a "My Lathe is better than yours" tone in your post. *We try not to have a 'bragging' tone towards one another here.*"

Really? I think a bit of honest bragging beats a condescending tone any day.

Sorry, but I didn't see anybody "lose sight" of the fact that this thread is for everyone to show off their pride and joy and pat each other on the back, all good fun 

Like I said: "We are all very proud of our lathes... we love 'em all".
I'll get some pics together and show off my lathes as in post #514.

Best regards, RossG.
(radial1951)
__________________
ps  OK, here's the first one: 1947 SB, stripped and re-painted in 1975. Could do with a new thrust bearing. Anyone know where I can buy one?


----------



## Propforward

Jeff-in-PA said:


> If you have room and want a commercial machine, just keep an eye on Craigslist and local ebay auctions.
> 
> I spent $1450 for my Monarch 12CK lathe with some tooling and a BXA qctp. I looked for almost four months before I found a good machine at a decent price.


 
That's a good find. I spent a long time looking for a used machine locally - even had my contacts in the machining industry keeping an eye out, but good quality, older machine tools still fetch a good price, and nothing came up in my price range (or got snapped up by machine shops too quickly). While I would definitely have rather had a used machine in good order like yours, companies like Grizzly do make reasonable machine tools available to the hobby machinist and enthusiast at an affordable price. Be prepared to do a bit of cleanup and setup on them, and I think they can be very nice machines. All good stuff.


----------



## Fluffy

Propforward,
This is my lathe which is the Aussie version (2004 model) of your Grizzly. Mine however is the short bed version being 610 mm (24") between centres & does not have a gapped bed. All else is the same as far as I am aware. I gave it a carriage overhaul & has performed quite well since. I have made a 127 tooth bakelite back-gear as a shear off gear & a 80 tooth back-gear for the final driven gear to reduce the available feed rates by half. 
Don.


----------



## Propforward

Fluffy said:


> Propforward,
> This is my lathe which is the Aussie version (2004 model) of your Grizzly. Mine however is the short bed version being 610 mm (24") between centres & does not have a gapped bed. All else is the same as far as I am aware. I gave it a carriage overhaul & has performed quite well since. I have made a 127 tooth bakelite back-gear as a shear off gear & a 80 tooth back-gear for the final driven gear to reduce the available feed rates by half.
> Don.


 

That is really nice - I really like the tool holder you made for the splash guard - what a great idea. The shelf underneath is smart too. I am toying with the idea of putting a coolant reservoir and pump in that space, but for now I'm going to manage with a tin cup and brush for coolant, until I get a little more familiar.


----------



## Sk8Ter

I don't want to get on anyone bad side but .......my colchester lathe is better then yours! 



but in reality I love to see all machine tools... heck I may see something that i did not even know about and want one! that is one side to the hobby



Lawrence


----------



## Sk8Ter

Fluffy said:


> Propforward,
> This is my lathe which is the Aussie version (2004 model) of your Grizzly. Mine however is the short bed version being 610 mm (24") between centres & does not have a gapped bed. All else is the same as far as I am aware. I gave it a carriage overhaul & has performed quite well since. I have made a 127 tooth bakelite back-gear as a shear off gear & a 80 tooth back-gear for the final driven gear to reduce the available feed rates by half.
> Don.




Hey Don I really like your idea of using the chip gard to hold lathe tools...nice!


Lawrence


----------



## wolframore

My Knuth DBF400.  It machines some nice things and love this thing!


----------



## hacklordsniper

MY first lathe was a microlathe 140X180 which i sold after 7 days because it was too small. MY second one is a mini lathe 180X300 from Optimum which came with so many manufacturing defects that it is a total shame.

Now im trying to sell the mini and buy something in range of 300X1000


----------



## Herbiev

A very neat and tidy workshop. I am envious


----------



## JLeatherman

I had a very nice South Bend Heavy 10, a late model from the 1980's with the extra wide-range gearbox, flame-hardened ways, and camlock spindle.  Recently, however, I sold it and decided to start "cheating" by buying a CNC lathe.  Here's my 14"x40" South Bend CNC:






South Bend never made a CNC, but this was an aftermarket conversion.  Basically they sold you a new Fourteen with no gearbox or apron and this place did the rest.  It's got servo-motors and ball-screws.  I don't know what controls it used to run, but the previous owner refitted it with a PMDx board and Gecko drivers and now it runs Mach3.  Just starting to get the hang of it.


----------



## Propforward

hacklordsniper said:


> MY first lathe was a microlathe 140X180 which i sold after 7 days because it was too small. MY second one is a mini lathe 180X300 from Optimum which came with so many manufacturing defects that it is a total shame.
> 
> Now im trying to sell the mini and buy something in range of 300X1000


 
I really like your shop layout, very nice and tidy and well organised.


----------



## robcas631

How do I add pictures?


----------



## radial1951

robcas631 said:


> How do I add pictures?


*
Hi Rob, If you look below where you are typing, you will see a section called "Attach Files". If you click on "Manage Attachments" you will hopefully find your way. Press "upload" only once, be patient. Click on "Preview Post" to see what it will look like.

Here's a Pic of my Pratt & Whitney 10" Toolmakers Lathe. My late father bought it about 1963-4. It seems excellent mechanically, and in the new year I plan to strip it down and do a full cosmetic restoration. The current paint job was done around 1951. I am collecting info, photos, Serial Nos etc. of any 10" P&W Lathes. Any info would be appreciated. They were probably the best precision lathe of their time (bragging!). Well, pre WWI there were probably a few really good lathes...

Regards, RossG
radial1951
_____________


----------



## Modhydro

Here are a couple of photos of a South Bend and a Logan that wound up getting morphed from a plain change gear model 200. I was going to see if a guy I worked with wanted to buy it from a friend since I had just redone a SB model A and was plenty happy with it. Luckily my buddy talked me into the Logan, I sold the SB to Steve and turned the Logan into this. I wound up finding a taper attachement at an auction and added it as well. I had to make a bedplate for the turrent tailstock as that was just too handy to let go with the SB. I had made "enhanced" chip trays for both of them. I really like catching the bulk of the chips before they hit the floor.


----------



## gus

Wish I could have a real machineshop like yours.I make do with the balcony which is not totally weather proof.
A wee bit of rain comes in real bad storms. Should have no complains as climate is summer throughout.

Would love to see your first project post.


----------



## robcas631

I am humbled and shy to show my lathe concidering the fine lathes you all own. Regardless, it should be done.


----------



## robcas631

I also added a engine I am working on! My error!


----------



## gus

Reminds me of the Colchester and Harrison lathes I worked during my Polytechinic school days. Also worked on a UK donated Capstan Lathe to set up a show turning out hex head bolts for Open House Day. In the sixties,capstan
lathe set-up was not common know how. Was my instructor's job to set up.When I need help ,he was no where to be seen. Luckily same lathe was easy to set up. My neighbours were using carbon tool cutters and were turning out parts with very good finisihing. HSS bits were unheard off to him. Some history.


----------



## gus

robcas631 said:


> I am humbled and shy to show my lathe concidering the fine lathes you all own. Regardless, it should be done. View attachment 58772



Nice looking engine.Please post video when you get it running.


Gus


----------



## lathe nut

Great looking lathe there both nice but that Logan us really nice, don't get them dirty, like that 7x10 I have two of them and I really like them a lot


----------



## SmithDoor

This the lathe I have it is a 1949 South Bend 9" new to me 2003 This is my forth SB 9" I have scrape the bed way and update the motor works great to day. Planing on making engines with it at this just working on tooling for the mill & lathe

Dave


----------



## petertha

Modhydro said:


> .. and turned the Logan into this. I wound up finding a taper attachement at an auction and added it as well..


 
Beautiful restoration(s). May I ask on the Logan taper attachment addition, how do you now disengage the leadscrew from its (I assume typical)threaded nut on the cross slide so it can slides freely via the taper attachment once angle set & locked down? Did Logans contemplate that in their design or you need to remove the leadscrew, or?


----------



## Modhydro

Thanks for the compliments on the lathes.  They are both dirtier and well used now, but that is the way they should be.  A spotless machine is an unused one!  The SB is now owned by HMEM member "SMG".  He has a thread going on a 4 cylinder he is building now: 

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/tiny-inline-4-designed-burleigh-machine-18818/

We work together with our day job and both have common interests in small engines.

For the Logan taper use, you just remove a screw into the cross feed nut like the smaller South Bends.  The taper attachment is from a far larger lathe, but that allowed me to mount it on some solid brackets off the back of the bed.  I milled in the flats when I re-cut the ways on it and had everything fixtured up.  When I got the lathe originally it had a pretty crude, but still effective homemade taper attachment on it. I have actually used it more than I would have figured so it is a nice thing to have.  I play trombone and have a Vintage Olds bass that has a different taper on the receiver.  Finding the Remington taper mouthpieces is hard so I just re-cut what I need.  the second photo shows the brackets in the rough and the third once I put in an epoxy fillet and got everything painted.

Steve


----------



## Propforward

robcas631 said:


> I am humbled and shy to show my lathe concidering the fine lathes you all own.


 

No need to be at all. That engine you are making is marvellous. Thm:


----------



## gus

tattoomike68 said:


> Wel ill be darned, that sounds like a handy little deal to have. My eyes are not as good as they used to be.




I am 69 and my right eye has cataract and about to go for ops. Left eye is OK.
No worry.Young man like us can now take it easy.Plenty of time to build engines.
 Kids grown up. House paid.Fully insured. Health still good.
The "boss" leaves me alone as long as we bring in no chips from the machineshop.


----------



## robcas631

A common affliction of our occupation no?


----------



## robcas631

Great news Gus!


----------



## robcas631

Only machinist can say I started out from scratch! LOL


----------



## vederstein

Here's pictures of my 1937 12x36 Sebastain.  I have a small rotary table chucked to my 8in 4-jaw.  The idea was to keep everything concentric when I mill flats and cross holes on the outside of the part.

But alas, my 3" chuck on the table isn't big enough.  I get to buy new tools!!! Yeah!!!

I'm looking into a new chuck for this lathe.  It has 2-1/8 - 8 spindle threads.  It's a weird size spindle and I'll have to make a backing plate from scratch. (I'm not looking forward to that. My skills are limited, but improving.)

Below the Sebastain, is a Craftsman 109 my father gave me.  It's from the late '50s or early '60s and really hasn't been used since new.  My dad tells stories that the only useful thing it ever made was two bearings machined by my grandfather.  It lives under my workbench.  This is what a lathe looks like when it's dormant after 50 or so years.

I have dreams of running this thing on a small live steam engine and take it to farm machinery shows.


----------



## lathe nut

vederstein, Love that Sebastian, that is a nice looking machine, I have a 20" with a 13' bed was hoping someday to find a smaller one like you got, nice, Lathe Nut


----------



## ieezitin

ModHydro.

What a smashing job you have done Modding-out that Logan 200. Although blue would not have been my first choice colour for paint I must say it really is appealing. The stainless back-splash tray is a nice accessory both quite practical while being clean. 

I have a couple of questions for you, I have just completed installing a Quick Change unit on my 200, I kept the plain apron so I just milled off the unit and cut down the lead screw, the donor unit is a 920, my question is what is your gearing arrangement down to the lead screw gear (stud, Idler & screw) and what sires machine did the taper attachment come from and what was involved in installing the attachment?

Many thanks    Anthony


----------



## Modhydro

Anthony,

Thanks for the compliments on the lathe. I had redone a bridgeport and did it in the same blue. Machinery gray just isn't my thing. I figured they should match. To me the lighter color also shows dirt and grime and helps force the issue of keeping things cleaner. 

I will get a photo of the gearing. I had to make a shim for the QC to move it out for my newer apron leadscrew axis. I did learn the hard way that the 3/8" or so differential had the final leadscrew gear rubbing in the gear cover. I guess these are the things you run into when making something out of several machines.

I have no idea what lathe the taper attachment was actually from. It has around 14" or so of travel along its length so I figure it will do about anything I would ever need to tackle. My guess is it must have been something big enough that none of the e-bay buyers bid for it. I think it only ran me $15 or so. Needless to say I was very happy to pay that for it. Even better was the guy letting me pick it up in person on a family visit to save shipping. I actually found the Logan taper cross slide on e-bay as well, but it wasn't noted as such and the photos barely showed what it was. I held my breath on that bidding, but got a steal on it as well. Sometimes patience can pay off.

When I had the bed on my mill to recut the ways, I faced two surfaces to bolt the taper setup to. You can see the simple tee shaped mounts I made in the photo. The photo doesn't really show the machined pad as the mounts pretty much fill the milled flats on the cast bed.

The pan is actually .080" aluminum. That was pricey enough. I'd hate to think what stainless would have cost me. In this photo you can see the notching to fit around the drive pulley cover. It was quite a project figuring out the pan in space. My sons and I had string pulled all sorts of ways and tape marks on the walls. I drew it up in Pro-E and did some full scale prints to check things out before committing to cutting metal I have a flat pattern for it drawn up so it is an easy part to replicate if anyone is interested. I can provide it in a .dxf format and you could get it printed full sized and start cutting bending and welding from there. I did a simpler one for the SB and was hooked on how much nicer it is than the skinny chip tray that it came with.

let me know if there are any other photos or info I can help you with.

Steve


----------



## zzr1200

A few weeks ago, I come across a nice Harrison L5 Lathe 1960 vintage (9"x 24" with a 17" swing in the gap) with some useful attachments at a very sensible price, took it home, deep cleaned it and painted it. 

The only wear appears to be a slight amount of backlash in the cross slide screw/nut about 7 thou on the dial.

Anyway heres the before and after photo's, I still have to clean and paint the attachments as required.


----------



## SilverSanJuan

Nice work!  She looks brand new. 

Todd


----------



## landcrsr

This is a picture of my small lathe, the picture was taken at work but now the lathe is at home in my shed.


----------



## Shawn

I just moved this Smart & Brown 1024 VSL into my shop last week. 




Shawn


----------



## radial1951

Shawn said:


> I just moved this Smart & Brown 1024 VSL into my shop last week.
> 
> Shawn



Now that's a quality machine. The oil stains will come out with WD40 or kero and she'll look like a new one. Nice...


----------



## texta

first up G,day new member .
and the lathe only had it a few months but we are getting along just fine, my first metal lathe  ( took 30 odd years to get it ) .i have had wood lathes for many many years .built the first one myself and bought a small one for making pens , i always wanted a metal lathe , i just wish i had not left it so late to get one . now i want a mill of course but i will have that by the end of this year come hell or high water .also bought a very old power hacksaw not long ago and have made a few improvments to it and given it a new lease on life .
in the mill dept i think i will be settling for a mill drill , thinking along the lines of a hm46 type thing .


----------



## SpeakerMonkey

Hello from (the very wet) Britain!

Having taken a while to get through this thread with great enjoyment I can now proudly post a pic of my new (to me) myford lathe next to a woodworking cousin.

Photos of projects to follow I hope and possibly a workshop renovation project for 2014!  Happy New Year.


----------



## John Rus

Love that Smart & Brown, hard to be an old American lathe. Oh wait Grizzly is better? There made in China and cheap too. There showroom is close by, I better check them out! 

Cheers,
John.


----------



## gus

zzr1200 said:


> A few weeks ago, I come across a nice Harrison L5 Lathe 1960 vintage (9"x 24" with a 17" swing in the gap) with some useful attachments at a very sensible price, took it home, deep cleaned it and painted it.
> 
> The only wear appears to be a slight amount of backlash in the cross slide screw/nut about 7 thou on the dial.
> 
> Anyway heres the before and after photo's, I still have to clean and paint the attachments as required.



As good as brand new.
We were taught turning using Colchesters and Harrisons in 1961-----1963 when Gus was a young lad of 16.
In fact all the machine tools were British who came in to set Singapore Polytechnic and so were most of the instructors and lecturers--------principal.

Time past so fast and Gus now 70 and retired. I was told that most of the Colchesters and Harrisons are still operating though a wee bit worn.

Happy New Year.


----------



## Swifty

Gus, although I started about 9 years later than you, I too learnt on Colchester and Harrison lathes at trade school.

Paul.


----------



## bazmak

Started in 62 and also had Harrison lathes in apprentice school


----------



## rotorhead

Hi Folks.

Thought you might like my oldun





Just done this to my Elliott.


----------



## Walltoddj

I thought I show you my Lathes one is a DoAll 13x60 and the little red one is Harbor Freight 7x10. The DoAll needs some work but it works find till I can get my second mill and surface grinder going I had to tear them down to haul the grinder and both got wet in the rain while loading them for the move from Buffalo, NY to Jefferson City, TN. Not bad only about 5000# setting on the axles of my trailer the first time I'd had brake dust on the six trips down and back.

Todd


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## PMac

Hi here's my lathe it's a bit small but as shown i've fitted a milling slide it fits to the cross slide via T slots it's first job was making Tnut bar for fitting it my next machine is a late 1800s milling machine




Thanks
Paul Mac


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## Wizard69

PMac said:


> Hi here's my lathe it's a bit small but as shown i've fitted a milling slide it fits to the cross slide via T slots it's first job was making Tnut bar for fitting it my next machine is a late 1800s milling machine
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Paul Mac



Maybe we need a thread on functional machinery from the 1800's.   Some of these machines are fascinating in their design and usage.


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## PMac

I put a thread titled (vintage milling machine) i'm unsure of it's real age but it's an early profile miller the operator wound the bed and the spindle traced a sheetmetal pattern bolted to the bed


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## Walltoddj

rotorhead said:


> Hi Folks.
> 
> Thought you might like my oldun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just done this to my Elliott.



I like the lift over top of the mill, I was told about a way to make a nice hoist using a tractor trailer axle. You cut the axle in half leaving the brake unit on, dig a hole about 12" or more depending on the soil and bury the axle to the brake in concrete. Now mount a lift on top of the brake. Plumb air valve to the brake unit so when the air is on it can move when the air is of it's stationary. I'm still trying to find an axle but sounded like a great idea.

Todd


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## mikbul

Hi Folks, a lot of nice machinery out there. Here's a photo of my first lathe, a Micromark 7X16 with 3" three way and 4" 4 way chucks, QCTP etc. A perfect lathe for my hobby room.


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## mikbul

Moved from the hobby room to a shop and here's a photo of my South Bend 8K just set up.


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## battman49

Nice lathe Florian, I have the same model newly acquired.
But alas no change gears, Can you come back to me with module size for gears, or say diameter of the 60 tooth wheel? Dirk    [email protected]


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## carper64

Hi folks
my lathe started out life as a Denford Orac, it now boasts an 8 station tool changer, sadly its still not finished due to ill health.


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## mechman48

Like your collection; next question ... where do you start & with which machine..    
 George


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## Barbacane

Hi,
Here is my lathe,
haulin 01.jpg
an Haulin made at Charenton near Paris in the 1960-70 years.
I have had a few lathes and milling-machines.
I have a project for a hit & miss engine with aluminium casting.
Before i have to make a very simple engine to learn machining difficulties like crankshaft and others.
My site :
http://information.generale.free.fr/inter/inter.html
Thanks a lot for all your news.
Best regards,
Alex


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## rennkafer

This is my Logan 2555VL, 12x24 variable speed.  It's a 1961 model (like its owner)

Looked like this when I got it






I spent a summer restoring it, and now it looks like this (and works much better too).  Currently sitting on a cart down in the shop waiting for me to get the shop interior finished (we bought a house earlier this year, this photo is in the old garage)


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## 7mag

Here is a pic of a little Schaublin I use to make small screws and bushings. The compound is a Gilman and I fabricated the tailstock.


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## 7mag

Here is a P.W. 14x54 we have at work.  This thing is a brute.


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## Kernbigo

Has any one added oil groves with wickes to a south bend 9"wide body headstock? Thinking about using a burr in a dreamel tool to grind them in and insert wicks in them to hold more lube.


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## KodytheBear

Here's a few of the toys that keep me sane in those cold Michigan winter days.
4003 Grizz gear head lathe. 1007 Mill.  Atlas 7AB Shaper.


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## Sk8Ter

some before and some after but you can check out my vids on youtube too  under Lawrence Harasim


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## radial1951

Sk8Ter said:


> some before and some after but you can check out my vids on youtube too  under Lawrence Harasim



Hi Sk8Ter

That's a nice old Hendy. Any idea when it was built?

Regards, RossG
radial1951
_____________


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## Sk8Ter

radial1951 said:


> Hi Sk8Ter
> 
> That's a nice old Hendy. Any idea when it was built?
> 
> Regards, RossG
> radial1951
> _____________



Hello yea 1917!


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## KodytheBear

Nice job, Sk8Ter... Want to do my Shaper?  [see pix on previous post]


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## Sk8Ter

KodytheBear said:


> Nice job, Sk8Ter... Want to do my Shaper?  [see pix on previous post]




if i can do what i did most certainly you can clean up that nice shaper


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## TorontoBuilder

macona said:


> Heres a pic of my toy... Just finished going through her.
> 
> For those who dont know its a Monarch 10EE



Thats the sexiest lathe I've ever seen. Nice paint... I'd have gone more of a candy apple red.. but still stunning. 

There's a Monarch currently for sale in the Ottawa, Canada area for a decent price 

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-tool-other/o...he/1034085979?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true


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## mikemott

here is a small lathe that i made to compliment my Myford ML7









Michael


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## KodytheBear

Sk8Ter said:


> if i can do what i did most certainly you can clean up that nice shaper



Yeah Sk8Ter, I'm just lookin for ya to do my dirty work 
I'll have plenty of time this winter to get her done.


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## Sk8Ter

KodytheBear said:


> Yeah Sk8Ter, I'm just lookin for ya to do my dirty work
> I'll have plenty of time this winter to get her done.



yea I will do your dirty work...100 bucks an hour


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## KodytheBear

Sk8Ter said:


> yea I will do your dirty work...100 bucks an hour



LOL, I guess that's probably a fair price.  You sure do good work...
I just need to get busy, now that the snow is here.  

I got my eye on the little Atlas Horiz Mill to match the Shaper.
I paid $450 for the Shaper, and I can get the mill from the same guy for the same $450.  Just waiting for him to pull the trigger.   I'll post it when it happens.
Fun Chatting... L8r


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## lathe nut

that is one cute little lathe, very well built and you must have a lot of hours in it, nice I mean real nice.


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## lathe nut

Hey that is one of the most beautiful lathes that was made, they are classy looking and you really did a nice job on that, I have done a few and my South Bend Shaper, that a lot of hours to get where it is, sure hope you don't use it, would not want to get it dirty, do you know what specific reason they made that type of lathe or what is a common one that they offered, that would be the ultimate lathe to own, glad you have one, Lathe Nut


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## rockets

Hello all,

 Just acquired this 1967 Emcomat 7









 Cheers,

 Rockets.


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