# Building a Bigger Benson Engine



## Jasonb (Dec 28, 2011)

Some of you may have seen my intention to build this engine mentioned in other posts over the last couple of years, well Ive now got round to doing some as a bit of light relief from the Fowler and IHC that I have on the go.

The engine is based on one of a range of vertical pillar engines made by W.Benson in or around 1862 and this is a contemporary engraving showing the engine. More about W.Benson can be found here







I have always liked Anthony Mounts (AM from now on) models and this engine is shown in Vol 2 of his Historic Engines Worth Modeling but at 1/12th scale is a little small for my liking so I have scaled it up to 1/9th scale giving a flywheel of around 10 which is within my lathes capacity. The book is really a series of reprints of the various build series that have appeared in either ME or EIM and includes almost all the drawings. You can also buy the drawings or drawings & castings from Bruce Engineering

Ive been making odd bits when I had a moment over the last couple of months but will try to describe things in the order they appear in the book. Some photos are not upto my usual standard having been snapped with the phone between machining.

Starting with the rather organically shaped base which would come as a casting. I had been tossing around a few options for making this such as building up from 3 separate layers or carving from the solid (probably aluminium as I only intend to run on air) but the idea of getting all the curves to flow into one another was a bit off putting.

In the end I decide to use Corian as I had some left over from work and knew I could shape it with my usual woodworking tools. As with most corian jobs I started with a template of 6mm MR MDF as its easier to do any blending of curves in the soft thin MDF. The main centre holes for the cylinder, column and pump were co-ordinate drilled and then these were used to locate the curves centrally on the rotary table.






I then drilled the same 3 centres into the corian and at the same setting did all the bolt hole PCDs using the function on the DRO before rough cutting to shape on my smaller bandsaw.











Next the router table was set up with a replaceable tip flush trimmer, the template pinned to the Corian using the centre holes and routed to the shape of the template.






The trimming bit was then changed to a 1/8 rad roundover bit with small bearing to give a 1/16 quirk and the moulded edge run.






The only downside with routing Corian is that the swarf comes off like confetti and being a plastic sticks to everything due to static even when using dust extraction






And here it is done together with from left to right the cylinder base, column base and another section from the bottom of the column.






Next up is the column, AM has this drilled right through and uses a M8 stud to hold it to the base and keep the entablature in place but I opted to make it from 4 sections held together with CSK socket screws and then use the actual flange bolts to hold things together. By having the top and bottoms as separate parts the main column could come out of a 6 length of 1 .75 steel. Here it is having one end drilled & tapped for the CSK screws






And with it all assembled the flat for the piston rod guide milled and tapped, the base was still rectangular at this stage so I could clock the whole thing true. The toolmakers clamps are just to take out any flex, there are two hold downs on the back left angle plate that take the load.






And a view from above showing the screws and how I used a spigot/hole on all parts to keep things concentric






Next up its the Entablature
Jason


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## Ramon (Dec 28, 2011)

Hi Jason, glad to see it here at last, I shall watch your build with deep interest 

I particularly like your use of Corian for the base and the use of a router - very 'lateral'.

Really looking forward to the coming posts as it looks as if you are a fair way in

Regards - Ramon


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## smfr (Dec 28, 2011)

This looks like it will be a beauty!

Looking at the engraving, I can't figure out how the split-fork connecting rod doesn't interfere with the piston rod guide. Or maybe the guide has a U-shaped bend in it that you can't see from this angle?


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## gbritnell (Dec 28, 2011)

I had the same thought about the piston rod yoke. There is no way for it to go from side to side with the stroke of the engine without hitting the vertical rod.
gbritnell


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## Jasonb (Dec 28, 2011)

Yes the bracket curves round to support the governor rod and then back to pick up the piston rod.

J


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## Jasonb (Dec 28, 2011)

Moving swiftly along we come to the entablature. This is again supplied as a casting so I had to fabricate it from steel. The first item being a simple stepped disc that bolts to the flange at the top of the column, I added a couple of slots to locate the side pieces into so they would not wander during soldering.

The four sides of the box were then made up from 3/8 & 3/16 steel with a screw in each corner to hold it together, the faces of the two 3/8 blocks were dot punched to raise a burr so the solder would flow into the gap.

There is a boss that the governor shaft pivots in, this was done with a bit of 7/16 rod with a groove up most of its length to create a halving joint, the other half of the joint was done by plunge cutting with a 7/16 slot drill. 

All the top surface was left a little oversize so it could be milled true to the flange after soldering. Here are all the parts with a bit of hand filing to blend the sides into the flange.






And test fitted together






It was then taken apart, fluxed with Tenacity No5 before silver soldering






After a clean up the top surface was milled back to finished size and the various holes added. The solder needed very little cleanup and just a lick of JB Weld to the base of the governor boss had it finished off.






J


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## coopertje (Dec 28, 2011)

Beautiful work Jason :bow: :bow:

I am looking forward to see the engine coming together bit by bit and learn from your skills! 
Really like the way you made the base, shows how you can make use of a "standard" tool just used in a different way.

Regards Jeroen


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## AndyB (Dec 28, 2011)

Way to go Jason!

This is going to be another thing of beauty...again! :bow:

I have got a set of castings for this engine from Polly. I didn't realise quite how small it is, and I have been too chicken to attempt it yet. Maybe soon.

At least I will know how by the time you have done yours...at a magnification that I can see! :big: :big: :big: :big: :big: :big:

Andy


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## Jasonb (Jan 15, 2012)

The bearing brackets and crank should follow next but we will come back to them, in the meantime here is the cylinder/valve construction.

I had been intending to fabricate the cylinder from bronze and silver solder it all together but seeing Ramons recent table engine post where he assembled the parts with JB Weld thought that I would give that a go.

The main cylinder and end flanges were machined from a length of 45mm cast iron bar, here you can see the soft jaws and fixed steady being used while the cyl is turned down to finished length.






The valve block was cut from a piece of 40mm CI plate and most of the work was done in the mill with the exception of the exhaust pipe flange which was done in the 4-jaw in the lathe.






The decorative ring around the cylinder was done in brass and had to have a few kerf cuts on the inside to allow it to flex over the cyl OD. All was then cleaned down with cellulose thinners before being stuck with JB weld and left for 24hrs. I had left the valve face over size so it could be machined back true to the cylinder ends and the JB weld held up to the 0.025 cuts with a 40mm indexable end mill across the face. Ports and stud holes were drilled at the same setting, still needs a bit of filleting added with some more JBW but that can wait until the engine has been test run.











With that out the way the top cylinder cover, piston & rod were straight forward turning jobs, note the small notch to stop the cover spigot blocking the steam way in the cylinder flange.






Next up was the valve chest, this was machined from some 1 x 1 brass bar, unfortunately the photo of the gland being shaped was out of focus but I used a boring head with a tool set for cutting outside diameters to form the two shallow curves which were then blended at the ends with a file.











The valve Puck was milled from bronze, as my 1/8 milling cutters were a bit short the groove for the valve rod was cut with a 1/8 slitting saw.






AM shows the valve chest cover as a plain flat sheet but I milled out a small panel for a bit of interest. With hindsight all the cylinder fixings would have been better at 6BA rather than the 5BA that the 1.5x enlargement scaled out to as they look a little heavy, Ill use 6BA size hex nuts on teh 5BA studs so things wont be too bad.






The governor works a small valve that screws into the side of the valve chest which was just machined from brass and stainless for the valve spindle. I have not finished the pipe flange yet as it has scaled up quite large so may reduce the dia a bit more and place the bolt holes to suit.






And finally here are a few shots of the various bits assembled.
















Jason


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## steamer (Jan 15, 2012)

That looks awesome Jason!

Nice fabrication job....

Dave


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## metalmad (Jan 15, 2012)

HI Jason
Top Job Buddy
Pete


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## AndyB (Jan 16, 2012)

As our American cousins might say...

Holy Shamoly!!! :bow:

You and Ramon are raising the bar above the top stops!!!! :bow:

I had better take up knitting :big: :big: :big: :big: :big:

Andy


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## Jasonb (Jan 29, 2012)

I picked up a piece of 1 ½ x ½ steel at Ally Pally last week that I needed to make the con rod out of so thought I would have a got at that this weekend, the rod is a tuning fork shape with wedged straps at both ends to retain the bearings.

I cut off a 6 length so there would be some waste at the ends to hold the work buy then squared up an end and reduced the width to 1 1/8 and while in the vice drilled the holes for the bearings before doing the basic marking out. The bar was then clamped to the mill table on a couple of spacers and clocked true.






The first operation was to set the DRO to zero on the centre line and at one end then the hole that forms the base of the two forks was drilled out to 5/8 before switching to the boring head and opening upto 0.846.






Next I drilled all the internal corners with a 3/16 stub drill and the ends of the wedge slots with a 3/32 drill.






The thickness was then reduced on the top face first with a flycutter to remove the bulk followed by a ½ slot drill that had the corners reground to 3/32 rad. The two ends were left 10thou over thickness so they would remain attached to the clamping waste at the ends.






I then drilled out some of the waste between the forks before hogging out most of the metal with a ½ cutter before switching to a 3/16 FC-3 disposable cutter to finalise the profile leaving a bit of metal on the bottom to help keep things rigid. The outside of the curve was done using the arc or radius function on the DRO cutting with a 10thou overlap, I had not used this function in anger before and was very pleased with the results, the curve just needing a touch of Emery to remove any tool marks.






With the shape complete I flipped the work over and reduced to thickness, followed by cutting through the bush holes. It was then just a matter of setting the ends up in the vice and removing the last 10thou from each side. Note the packing between the forks to save crushing them.






All that was left was a bit of file work to square up the wedge slots and a general cleanup. The wedges and cotters had been made earlier by machining the profile into the end of a bar and then slicing off with a slitting saw.






And this is as far as I have got, the bottom two wedges still need final fitting and then the whole lot can be given a better cleanup. The straps were made by pressing them into a suitably cut U shape in the side of a bar with a piece of rod the same dia as the bearings.






Jason


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## SBWHART (Jan 29, 2012)

Great build Jason very informative, very interesting use of adhesives and materials.

Thanks for showing

Stew


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## lazylathe (Jan 29, 2012)

Awesome work as usual Jason!!! ;D

Your posts are always full of interesting info and tips!
I also like the use of the JBWeld from Ramon's Table Engine post!!!

Very neat!!!

Andrew


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## tel (Jan 29, 2012)

This is going to be a joy to behold when it's done - get a move on!


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## Jasonb (Feb 5, 2012)

Well the cold has not kept me out of the workshop this weekend, having to file the piston rod guide to profile helped stave of hypothermia.

I've jumped ahead a bit but having got the engine to a stage where it could be test run I could not resist plugging in the compressor,  here is a short video.

Its running on 10psi and I should point out that there are No gaskets, No gland packing and No piston ring material yet so should be able to get it down to a nice smooth tick over once its all set up properly and the governor is fitted.


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## steamer (Feb 5, 2012)

Making a split cotter bearing is tough enough...making two IN LINE on the end of a flexible arm is amazing!

 :bow:


Dave


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## SBWHART (Feb 5, 2012)

Cracking Job

 :bow: :bow: :bow:

Stew


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## Jasonb (Mar 3, 2012)

Well I suppose we should get back to the actual construction.
Last time I left off with the con rod just about finished and here is a better picture taken with the camera rather than the phone






The next logical part is the crank which was a simple turning job in the 4-jaw followed by a bit of filing. The crankshaft is shown with a larger dia where the flywheel mounts, rather than machine this all out of a large dia bar I silver soldered on a sleeve and then mounted between centres to machine the OD down to size before cutting the slot for the keyway.






The bearing blocks that support the crankshaft were machined from scraps of aluminium all fairly straight forward. The shallow curve to the edges was done with a boring head swinging about a 5 radius. Bearings are not split just turned from SA660 Bearing bronze and to top it all off a little form tool was ground up to shape the outside of the oilcups and the inside opened out with a 3/16 ball nose slotdrill.






The construction series describes a method for making the eccentric straps that I had not used before so I gave it a go. Start with a piece of solid brass or thick wall tube, I used part of an old plumbing fixture. The tube is machined approx to OD then transferred to the mill and has shallow slots cut on opposite sides and at 90 deg to these small circular recessed are milled. You then silver solder in strips of brass for the clamping lugs and small brass bushed for the rods. Its then back to the lathe to bore out and part off the complete straps, note they are not split but on final clean up I will scribe a grove to suggest they are. The eccentrics have a narrow groove in them which engages with a spigot on the end of the eccentric rod and keeps it all together.






The piston rod guide is a tricky little fabrication and as some people queried at the start of this thread it has to curve around the conrod to avoid being hit and also provides a guide for the governor reach rod. I started out by silver soldering two bits of ¼ flat bar together and then drilled for the mounting holes , the whole engine was then bolted down to the mill table and a coax indicator used to pick up the cylinder bore.






Next the embryo bracket was bolted to the column and the two holed drilled for the piston and governor rods, not the use of a bit of studding and two nuts to act as a jack so the bracket does not get bent downwards with the drilling pressure.






With all holes positioned it was just a case of cutting and filing to profile and loctiting in a bronze bush





J


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## chuck foster (Mar 3, 2012)

i don't know how i missed this build ??? but i will be following along as there is a wealth of info to read and great pictures to see 

excellent workmanship jason :bow:

chuck


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## pete (Mar 3, 2012)

Jason,
A more than very clever way of properly locating those bores in the support bracket. :bow:

Pete


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## Ramon (Mar 3, 2012)

Hi Jason, I've just caught up with your progress - brilliant - lovely work, all of it inspiring but especially the conrod build. It's going to be a real picture once finished and a great model to watch running. Keep it going Thm: Thm:

Ramon


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## mh121 (Mar 3, 2012)

Another excellent job on a very nice looking engine Jason. Was nice to see you used the radius function on the DRO, I keep meaning to try it when I get a spare minute, but it looks like it makes a fine job of it.

MartinH


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## Jasonb (Mar 11, 2012)

Next up I tackled the governor which is driven off the crank shaft by a set of skew gears, I took the easy option and bought a standard pair which just needed a little work to make them fit.

Ramon had a thread going about how best to drill steel balls for use on governors and ended up annealing his steel ones. I took a slightly different approach and bought stainless steel balls which although still reasonably hardwearing can be drilled without any prep. A simple top hat bush was made to hold the balls while drilling.







I only got one other pic of the governor under construction and this shows the groove and undercut being done on the bottom pivot with a parting tool.






And here it is all complete with the associated follower arm and rod.






The second eccentric drives a small pump that could be used as a boiler feed pump is so desired, it was basically a fabrication from two bits of brass and a couple of balls and seatings to make sure the water only gets pumped one way!! Plus a simple stainless ram and stuffing gland











I like to use flanged pipework on stationary engines as nutted unions are really out of scale. The bends were made by modifying compression plumbing fittings and then the pipe and flanges silver soldered on and all held together with 10BA nuts and bolts.





Last and not least is the flywheel this was purchased from one of the large UK tool dealers  RDG who also have a few flywheels in their range. This is the 10 one and was very good for the money, just a small blow hole near the hub but soon filled.






Well its all stripped down for painting now so hopefully the next post will be the finished item and maybe Ill show how to get a tiled floor effect on the display base.

J


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## Don1966 (Mar 12, 2012)

That is beautiful machine work Jason. I love the Benson engine, does anyone sell the plans for this? I have a long way to go to build this engine, but I would like to get plans for future built that is till I get better. Can you tell me where to get plans?

Regards Don


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## Jasonb (Mar 13, 2012)

There are a few options on plans.

Bruce engineering will sell just plans or plans and castings.

Track down the back Issues of Model Engineer or Engineering in Miniature that the build was originally published in.

Or do as I did and buy one of Anthony Mounts books which are basically reprints of teh magazine articles and each covers 5 or 6 engines. The Benson is in book II.

J


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## Don1966 (Mar 13, 2012)

Thanks Jason I have order one.

Don


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## Jasonb (Mar 18, 2012)

I mentioned in the last post that I would show a simple way to get the effect of a tiled engine room floor on a display base, so this is how I did it for the Benson.

First make your baseboard and drill any holes for fixings, pipes etc. I used 18mm white melamine faced chipboard for the flat area and edged it in an off cut of Sapele that I had which was just mitred and glued than the moulding done with a router once the glue was dry.






I decided on a terracotta and black tile but if you want to go black & white this step can be left out. Mask off the wood and then spray the terracotta, I used red oxide primer from a spray can as its quick and simple.






When the paint has had a good chance to dry cover the whole area with either masking film or as I could not find mine I used a bit of sign writers adhesive vinyl. Next mark out a grid to suit the scale of your tiles, mine worked out at 10mm. Cut the mask along each grid line with a sharp scalpel and then remove alternate squares taking care not to scratch the paint below.






Its then just a case of spraying on the second colour before peeling off the remaining masking film once the paint is dry. For good measure add a coat or two of matt or satin clear Acrylic to protect the surface before peeling the masking tape off the wood.






J


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## Ramon (Mar 18, 2012)

That's a nice masking job Jason and very effective  Thm:. Rather fortunate it's a couple of days' too late as you would have given me ideas  

Several years ago at an exhibition I saw an engine - an Otto I think - mounted on genuine brown linoleum that had been scribed for tile effect then oiled. It looked absolutely realistic but where oh where would you find linoleum these days.

Looking forward to seeing the finished model.

Regards - Ramon


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## Jasonb (Mar 18, 2012)

Its still available I was involved in a large reffurb job a few years back and they had a proper linolium floor with all the borders done in contrasting colours and an enblem in the middle that was water jet cut, not cheap though.

http://www.forbo-flooring.co.uk/

If you just want a small sheet then check out your local art shop, they should have A5, A4 and A3 size pieces as its use dfor lino prints.

Jason

I've also sent you a PM.


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## Don1966 (Mar 18, 2012)

That's a superb job Jason, thanks for the how to photos.
Don


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## Jasonb (Mar 19, 2012)

The last thing to do was the painting, I dont have any photos of this and Im sure you can find more interesting things to do than watch paint dry. I will say that the parts were cleaned down with cellulose thinner, masked and then primed with car aerosol as I find this gives a slightly more textured effect which suits the cast look of the parts. Once dry they were airbrushed with Fowler Showmans Red which is one of the Cherry paints traction engine range.
It was all put back together with liquid gasket where needed and graphite yarn for piston and gland packing.









































And this one should give you an idea of the actual size






Well I suppose you also want to see it running so here it is, Ive set the governor to a very low speed as I dont like fast reving models and was surprised that the governor actually works as on a lot of models the force of the balls does not overcome the friction in the linkages etc.

I have to chase down what sounds like a small squeak but I think its actually a whistle as the air is exhausted on the downstroke, I have a feeling I got some liquid gasket into the passage end when fitting the cylinder to the end cover.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNeaWlhRw7E&feature=youtu.be

Jason


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## Ramon (Mar 19, 2012)

Hi Jason, I know I've had a sneak preview but let me say what a super job you've made of this very characterful engine. It's an absolute picture from the base to the top and and I expect you are well pleased with the result. :bow:

How far are you from Norfolk - it would be lovely to see it at this years Forncett ME day.

Congratulations on a truly lovely model - now - what's next? ;D

Regards - Ramon


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## mklotz (Mar 19, 2012)

When folks use the phrase "museum quality" this is what they're talking about. Beautiful work, Jason. Be proud of yourself.


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## pete (Mar 19, 2012)

Anthony Mount would be more than impressed and probably jealous. Fantastic job.

Pete


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## AussieJimG (Mar 19, 2012)

Beautiful job Jason, congratulations and thanks for sharing.

Jim


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## lazylathe (Mar 19, 2012)

+1 for museum quality! ;D

Amazing quality from top to bottom.
Perfect!!! :bow:

Congratulations on an excellent engine!!

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Mar 19, 2012)

:bow: Jason you are by far a master craftsman that is one awesome engine. I love the base and the color, I can only dream of doing that quality of work. Like they are saying museum quality. You have truly inspired me. Thank you for you excellent thread and teaching. again :bow:

Best regards Don


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## Captain Jerry (Mar 19, 2012)

Jason

I don't know if it is correct to describe that engine as "gobsmacking" but it is appropriate. I'm gobsmacked!

Jerry


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## smfr (Mar 20, 2012)

A wonderful engine, and nice to see it run in the video!

Simon


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## arnoldb (Mar 20, 2012)

Jason, this engine is exquisite :bow:
Really well done; congratulations!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## moconnor (Mar 20, 2012)

Hello Jason,

Congratulations on a superb model. I always look forward to reading your posts wether they are a build thread or an answer to someone's question because I learn something new more often than not. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your work, knowledge and insights on the finer points of model making. It is greatly appreciated.

What kind of air connection are you using in your base? The recessed connection points for intake and exhaust(?) are very attractive. Thanks again Jason.

Kind regards,
Mike


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## terryd (Mar 20, 2012)

Ramon  said:
			
		

> That's a nice masking job Jason and very effective Thm:. Rather fortunate it's a couple of days' too late as you would have given me ideas
> 
> Several years ago at an exhibition I saw an engine - an Otto I think - mounted on genuine brown linoleum that had been scribed for tile effect then oiled. It looked absolutely realistic but where oh where would you find linoleum these days.
> 
> ...



Hi Ramon,

Linoleum is still very popular as a hardwearing flooring material, we had some laid a few years ago with the school badge inlaid into the surface using different colours, it was very effective.

http://www.armstrong.co.uk/commflreu/en-gb/flooring.asp/linoleum/_/N-1z141ut. 

Perhaps you could ask for offcuts from flooring contractors? Otherwise it would be a pack of tiles or perhaps a metre off a roll! In my first school it was used to surface the workshop benches as it is resistant to dirt and oil and has a self healing surface as well as being kind to tools.

Best regards

Terry


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## danstir (Mar 20, 2012)

Beautiful engine!! Thanks for sharing it.


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## Jasonb (Mar 20, 2012)

Thanks for all the kind comments, Museum Quality is not a phrase I like much as I've seen it used all too often to describe some right Dogs, but I know what you mean.

Ramon I think its about 135 miles from me to the museum. As to whats next well I should really get my Fowler Traction engine finished off as thats stood still for too long. While doing teh Benson I've also started on a 1/2 scale Domestic "Stovepipe" hit & miss engine and will start writing that up soon in the "Engines from castings" section. I've also got a set of castings for a 2" Fowler ploughing engine but not in a rush to start that one (well I have done a bit  ) I do fancy another of Anthony Mounts designs - the Easton & Anderson grasshopper beam and will double that up to give a 10" flywheel and about 17" overall length.

Mike at the bottom of the grey pipework there is a simple block of brass drilled to form an elbow connection from that I have a 5/32" copper pipe that finishes just inside the brass ferrule and I simply push an old airbrush hose onto that. I'm only running it with 15psi so not much risk of it popping off.

J


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## Ramon (Mar 20, 2012)

I was so taken with your engine I forgot to say thanks for pointing me in the direction of 'Lino' I really had thought that that was a product of the past. Thank you too Terry. 
As I said this (Otto) engine looked most attractive on a very realistic flooring so I shall certainly look into finding some - had never even considered the 'art' direction - the last time I saw 'lino cut' was at school, mind you that was only yesterday 

270 miles round trip is a fair old way for a day out Jason but you'd be more than welcome. Should you decide I can certainly get details sent to you - it's usually the first Sunday in October which is a normal steaming day and as always all the full size engines that can be steamed usually are. 

We appear very similar in outlook certainly with things planned ahead though mine are mainly I/C orientated. You bring a wry smile however, next to the scaled up Benson Drawings in the folder are - yep you guessed it the AM Grass Hopper also scaled up but I think it an unlikely proposition for a long time yet.

Look forward to reading about your hit and miss engine

Regards - Ramon


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## Jasonb (Mar 20, 2012)

Ramon if you pop into ME site and look at the recent Glowplug & Propane thread there's a link to what I think is the Ottoman engine you mention in Johan's post

http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=66546

J


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## Ramon (Mar 20, 2012)

Yep , that's the one or one very similar. So it was built by 'Johann' - now that explains why it looks so good - one truly awesome model maker :bow:


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## AndyB (Mar 24, 2012)

Fantastic Jason! :bow: :bow: :bow:

Between you and Ramon I get to feel very humble! 

Seriously though, all credit where it is due; that is a smashing looking job you have made, with absolute attention to detail. Congratulations.

Andy


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 24, 2012)

Beautiful work.
I think they said it right...'museum quality'.


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## ShedBoy (Mar 24, 2012)

Superb work Jason :bow: :bow: :bow:

Brock


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## AlanHaisley (Apr 5, 2012)

Jason,
I have enjoyed both your build as well as the finished product. Your descriptions of fabricating parts are especially thought-provoking. I like working from solid myself but am still floundering about when thinking about making solids look like castings or forgings. A lot of food for thought in your work.
Oh, by the way, your end product is really beautiful.
Alan


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## AndyB (Apr 5, 2012)

Just to let you all know, but particularly Ramon and Jason;

The Forncett Industrial Steam Museum Model Engineer's Day is on Sunday 7th October.

It really is a cracking day, small but really friendly!!!! I don't get to see my wife once I have filled her with home-made coffee and walnut cake, she is off chatting to everyone...and she doesn't know one end of a lathe from the other!

I will be there, getting my hands dirty with the big boys' toys! 

Andy


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## Lesmo (Apr 6, 2012)

Hi Jason 

I started looking at this build at the very beginning and have just caught up with it today, and what can I say that has not already been said, it is truly a work of art and I would dearly love to be able to turn out work of this quality. Please keep them coming, you are an inspiration to us all I am sure.

Les  :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## rhitee93 (Apr 6, 2012)

That engine is stunning. The attention to detail gives me something to aspire to :bow:


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