# Locomobile steam engine



## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

I have always had an interest in the old steam cars, especially the Stanley Steam car and the Locomobile.
I finally got around to building an engine of my own. 

In 1993 Live Steam Magazine published a series by Salvatore Rubino to build a 1899 Stanley Locomobile 1/3 scale.
In my usual fashion I decided to build at least the engine but 1-1/2 scaled up and changing a few things to adapt to 
the material I had available and the machinery at hand. 

I could not find the supplier that originally provided the castings, but would be interested if anyone knows what happened to 
the supplier or the patterns.

I acquired an end drop of cast iron from a local supplier and decided to machine it from solid.

Here we go


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## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

After scaling up the drawings I started by cutting a rectangle out of the center of my cast iron round to make the cylinder


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## ChrisB (Feb 16, 2012)

I will be watching this build with great interest. I have a real soft spot for steam cars, its such a great combination, cars + steam engines = perfect match. That seems to be a really nice chunk of CI you have there too.


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## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

Thanks for your interest Chris
I will be open to ideas as I go
I need to catch up the post

Here I am facing the sawed rectangle to get a flat surface to start milling the cylinder body to size


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## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

I wanted to get the hardest part out of the way in case I scrapped the part so I milled the deep pocket 
for the steam chest before doing anything else


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## JorgensenSteam (Feb 16, 2012)

I did a lot of research on the Stanley 20 hp engine, and could put it into a 3D model if there is interest.

I believe I could cast the cylinder perhaps if I am lucky.

I think the Locomobile engine was designed by Mason, and the Stanley engine looks like a refined Mason engine, but the overall layout and design was originally Mason's.

Here is the Stanley valve that I put into 3D.
This is to exact scale for the valve and port edges, so you would get the exact timing of the real Stanley.


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## JorgensenSteam (Feb 16, 2012)

And a picture of the bottom of the valve.


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## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

Unicasting,
I would appreciate any information you would like to share on the Stanley or any other steam car engines.
I have some info I have collected from the various internet sights, but don't have complete drawings.
Thanks for your interest and for sharing your knowledge with us

Mike


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## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

After the steam chest was machined and valve ports drilled inside I felt comfortable to start bore the cylinder bores


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## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

Finish boring was completed with a boring head and then I honed to size with a brake cylinder hone


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## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

Drilling the connecting holes to the ports and drilling and tapping the holes for the covers was a big job
Lots and holes and worrying about braking a tap. I have learned the best taps for castings are good quality
2 flute taps. They don't break easily and work fine.

Mike


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## mnay (Feb 16, 2012)

Covers were next.  
Basic turning more cast iron

Mike


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## JorgensenSteam (Feb 16, 2012)

Both the Mason and the 20hp Stanley engine drawings are available from the Stanley museum.

How are you going to cut the ports?
I understand that the Stanley Brothers had a special machine that would do that.


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## mnay (Feb 17, 2012)

I did the ports using the same method as the author in the Live Steam article
They are drilled holes and I will use a die grinder to square them up
This photo shows the ports in the top of the cylinder bores and in the steam chest.
I use the dro on my mill to locate the holes and it worked out very well

Mike


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## mnay (Feb 17, 2012)

One thing I forgot to mention about the steam ports.
The author of the article came up with a good solution to make machining he steam ports easier.
The valve surface and ports are on a 45° angle instead of a 90° angle like the Stanley.
I'm not sure how I be able to machine the Stanley ports exactly like they did.

Mike


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## JorgensenSteam (Feb 17, 2012)

Here is a 3D pdf of the Stanley 20 hp cylinder, to scale.
I still have to add the ports, passages, valve seats, and a few other items, but you get the idea.
You can zoom in and out with the mouse wheel, and rotate the cylinder by holding down the left mouse button and dragging the mouse.

I guess if I were going to mill the ports (the openings in the valve seat), I would disassemble a Dremel and make a right angle boring machine with the motor driving the axis by fan belt.

Good luck with your build. 

View attachment Stanley-Cylinder-01.PDF


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## mnay (Feb 17, 2012)

Uni
Thanks for the drawing. What program did you create it in?
We have surfcam at my work.

One option looking at that drawing would be to make an insert for the steam chest and pre-machine the valve ports then 
shrink an insert in.

Are you building or have you built any steam car engines?

thanks again
Mike


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## JorgensenSteam (Feb 17, 2012)

The Stanley model was created in Solidworks, but I can also convert it to Alibre.

I have considered making two valve seats from brass plate, and somehow attaching those, but I would prefer to cast the cylinder as a whole.

I have a 3D printer, so I can make a pattern up to about 8" maximum size before I have to start piecing things together.

My Dad made the Locomobile replica shown on this page:
http://sites.google.com/site/jorgensensteamsite2/bob-s-engines
See Item No. 33 down the page.

At one point a few years ago I was designing a 1/2 sized Stanley 20hp, but have not gotten back to that.
Since I got into castings this year I no longer use the fabrication techniques.


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## mnay (Feb 17, 2012)

I have seen that before. Is Bob your father, or did he build one like that one?
That is a nice looking replica.

Mike


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## JorgensenSteam (Feb 18, 2012)

Yep, Bob was my Dad.
He has been a hard act to follow, but I give it my best.


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## mnay (Feb 20, 2012)

Bob was a very creative and talented man, but I am sure you have you own talents too as demonstated by your drawings.

We all have to do our own thing. 

Mike


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## mnay (Feb 20, 2012)

Next step was to finish the valve packing guides and thread the covers.


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## mnay (Feb 20, 2012)

I machined the cast iron steam chest cover, sorry for my vanity, I had to put my name on it, then lots of drilling to be able to bolt the covers on.

Next will be pistons.


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## mnay (Mar 13, 2012)

I finally got back to my project after a couple of weeks. I was able to machine the pistons and rods.
I decided to make my own design 2 piece piston which will have a press on carbon teflon ring/rider in the center.
We use carbon teflon successfully in large compressors at my work. I will see how well it works with steam.
I don't intend to run very high pressure, probably less than 100 psi, so the steam will be wet.

Mike


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## JorgensenSteam (Mar 13, 2012)

Mike-

That is beautiful work there.

The Stanley's used a two piece piston.
I am not sure about the Mason.

Worst case, you can replace the pistons with some that have cast iron rings. I have had trouble with machining many many things, but I can actually make cast iron piston rings without much trouble. I just turn off a few extra in case I break one, but they are not that bad. I don't do the heat-treatment, but turn them oversize, cut the gap, spring them in on a mandrel, and then turn them to final size. I make them slightly wide, and then sand the sides on a flat plate until the fit into the slot in the piston with a little to spare.


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## Powder keg (Mar 13, 2012)

Looking great!!!

~Wes~


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## mnay (Mar 14, 2012)

Thanks for the encouragement. This is most time consuming project that I have taken on.
It's hard to be patient, life gets in the way of hobby time!!!

I will have to do some research on the Mason Steam Car, I am not familiar with that one.

Mike


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## ronkh (Mar 14, 2012)

Hi Mike,

Don't worry about it being time consuming - just keep plugging away at it!
Very nice looking machining that you are doing.

Kind regards,

Ron.


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## mnay (Mar 20, 2012)

I made a few brass chips this weekend. I machined the crossheads for both cylinders.

Next will be the crosshead slides/frames. The originals in the articles were castings. I will be machining them from solid round bar. Not very efficient but I believe it will work ok.

Mike


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## mnay (Apr 4, 2012)

I was able to start on the next parts for the locomobile. My preference would have been to cast the crosshead guide/bearing brackets, but I don't do cast iron yet and they needed to be strong. I started with some scrap stressproof (1144 steel) round bar I got from work and started whittling away.

I will end up milling more than half of the bar away before I am done. After I complete one I will try to saw some of the material away to save time. I am designing as I go.


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## mnay (Apr 4, 2012)

In the last post I showed a photo of milling the crosshead slide/bearing bracket. I got ahead of myself with that post. Before I started milling I pre-machined the bar round and to length and calculated the bores to put in to save some milling later. I left a section of round stock when milling so I could go back and finish bore the crosshead bore after all of the milling was complete in case something warped or stress relieved. Lots of hours to go to complete these parts. Castings would certainly been faster to machine, but with pattern making time etc. probably sixes....

Mike


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## mnay (Apr 23, 2012)

More progress on the bearing standards/crosshead guides.
I decided to work smarter instead of harder.
The first standard I removed all of the material by milling, a very slow process.  The second standard I got a little smarter and machined a slot at each end and cut a large section out with my band saw. I saved at least 3-4 hours in the mill.


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## mnay (Apr 23, 2012)

Here is a photo of one standard with most of the mill work done. The ring on the bottom I left to be able to chuck it up in the lathe for a final bore in the crosshead guide after all of the stress relieving caused by the large amount of milling on the piece.  The other part is the vise is about 70% milled.

One chip at a time!!!!!

Mike


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## mnay (Jul 24, 2012)

I am finally back at it again.  I have all of the basic milling done on the uprights and am boring the crosshead guides.  I had to extend my boring bar to the max and run at only 80 rpm to eliminate the chatter
The ring left on the bottom of the upright was for chucking purposes.  I may leave part of it for an engine mount.


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## mnay (Aug 1, 2012)

I was able to bore the crosshead guide bores successfully even though they were flimsy long parts.  I had to machine with a very fine feed and slow rpm.

Because the parts were long I borrowed a right angle attachment for the bridgeport from work.  This made drilling the holes in the top of the standards an easy job.  Sorry about the blurry photo.

One chip at a time.


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## Allen (Aug 1, 2012)

Don't know if this will help much, but here are some detail pics of the half Mason that I used on my steamroller 













More on page 3 and 4
http://s397.photobucket.com/albums/pp52/steamnut1917/steam%20car%20engine/#!cpZZ4QQtppZZ20


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## mnay (Aug 2, 2012)

Allen,
Thanks for looking in and for sharing the photos.  That looks like a fun project.  I had not seen an engine like that before now.


Mke


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## Juancho72 (Sep 5, 2012)

Good night everyone. I'm new to the forum. I'm on research to build a full scale replica of a Locomobile or a Stanley Steamer, and at the moment I'm stock with the engine. So far I haven't been able to obtain enough information to work with. So I turned my expectations toward a Day-Land engine; so if anyone can direct me to get a copy or casted parts to start building one it would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance. Regards. JMV.


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## sunworksco (Sep 6, 2012)

Nice build!
I am going to build a quarter scale 1906 Stanley 30HP race engine that was in the Rocket.
I'm hoping to cast around two dozen engines. I plan to use ceramic pistons with Viton seals.
I plan to use circular Viton discs sandwiched in between the ceramic discs.
The cylinder block will be lost wax cast in silicon bronze.
I have a friend that has the drawings that I plan to convert to a 3-D CAD drawing.
The drawings will be expensive but it will allow me to print 3-D models in ABS plastic for making RTV molds. These molds will be used for making wax models for the lost wax casting.


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## mnay (Sep 10, 2012)

Giovanni,
Thanks for looking in.  I will be excited to see the progress on your steam engine.  Where did your friend get the Stanley drawings?
Would he be willing to sell or share if they are legal copies?
Mike


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## sunworksco (Sep 11, 2012)

Thank you.
My friend created the drawings from parts and image archives.
I will be building cast and machined engine kits but no plans. Sorry. I have too much invested in this project.


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## mnay (Jan 28, 2013)

After a long break and many family and home interuptions I am finally back to my project.
Here's where I left off.....


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## mnay (Jan 28, 2013)

I pulled the crosshead guide/standards from the engine, cut the temporary ends off and bored them for a ball bearing and couple of mounting holes.

More to come, soon I hope


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## kvom (Jan 29, 2013)

I have read that the Stanley engine would theoretically generate 500HP given enough steam.  The 20HP rating was based on the capability of the boiler.  Nice project.


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## mnay (Jan 29, 2013)

Thanks KVOM
Yes, the Stanley's would develop a lot of HP but they would run very high steam pressure, over 500PSI
Mike


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## mnay (Feb 6, 2013)

Small progress this last week.  I machined the slide valves and valve rods.


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## aonemarine (Feb 6, 2013)

Progress is progress no matter how much.  Looking good!!


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## mnay (Feb 25, 2013)

A few more parts made.
I got the crank throws and the connecting rods almost finished.
Had one small problem with the connecting rods.  I build them to the plan, but they hit the cross-head guide as they stroked, so I had to radius  the corners and neck down the small end to clear everything.  Does not look as pretty but it will work ok.


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## mnay (Mar 7, 2013)

I got the con rods complete and finally whittled down so they would stroke in the crosshead guides.  I also had to machine a bevel in the crosshead guides to clear the rods, but it all worked out.  The power side is fitted together.  Just need to get the valve train made.

Gettin' closer!!!!!


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## aonemarine (Mar 7, 2013)

Your moving right along now,  Looking good!!


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## procule (Mar 9, 2013)

I'm realy interested by your post


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## procule (Mar 9, 2013)

I Mnay, on the picture of cylinder we can read, on the bdrawing, 1 1/2 inch off diameter it real?

In fact wath is the diametre an stroke of the stanley moteur? and what dimention you have used for your work?

Thank in advance

Procule


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## procule (Mar 9, 2013)

Test picture in attatch?


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## procule (Mar 9, 2013)

The motor an axe was in front of that car at wells museum, maine


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## mnay (Mar 11, 2013)

Yes, my engine has 1-1/2 cylinder bore.  I am scaling it up from an article in Live Steam Magazine which had a 1" cylinder bore.
I wanted to build an engine similar to the Stanley engine
Those are neat cars.  Who do they belong to?
Mike


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## procule (Mar 11, 2013)

I Mike

definitively those cars ares realy nice.

You things than the original diameter of cylinder was 1 1/2 po? and  can generate 20 HP?

because,  the external motor diameter of my picture seam to be around 4 ".

I let a nicer picture of stanley steamer of the same museum


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## mnay (Mar 12, 2013)

The original cylinder bores on the Stanley were not 1-1/2, that is the bore size for the model engine I am building.
It is not a full size Stanley engine, it is a model built from Plans in Live Steam Magazine, scaled up


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## procule (Mar 13, 2013)

Thanks a lot for your post mike

Your work are very well done and give inspiration

And for me, help my comprehension of that motor

Procule


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## mnay (Apr 30, 2013)

I am finally back to work on the engine after many weeks of distractions.
I am working on the valve con rods now.  I started with 4 blanks that were roughed out in the cnc at work and then started the finish work at home.
I have 4 of them 75% complete now


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## mnay (Jun 19, 2013)

I have made a little more progress.  I have machined the 4 eccentrics for the valve rods.
I machined the concentric side first and then center drilled the offset hole.  I then set it up in the 4 jaw and dialed to the offset center using a good dead center in the hole


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## mnay (Jun 19, 2013)

I machined the 2 reversing links by cutting 2 pieces of 1/4 cold rolled steel and drilling 2 of the holes.  I then made a fixture for my rotary table so I could machine the radii.  I worked out well


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## ShedBoy (Jun 20, 2013)

Lovely work. Steam cars are very interesting.
I like seeing this engine come together.

Brock


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## sunworksco (Jun 21, 2013)

Will you be building the steam car, too?


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## mnay (Jun 21, 2013)

I have not decided.  I have been working on this engine for so long, I may need a different project for a while to take a break.

I have even thought about putting it on a bicycle

Mike


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## sunworksco (Jun 22, 2013)

mnay said:


> I have not decided.  I have been working on this engine for so long, I may need a different project for a while to take a break.
> 
> I have even thought about putting it on a bicycle
> 
> Mike



I have a great drawing of an early steam motorbike if you would like to see it.


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## mnay (Jun 22, 2013)

I would love to see the drawing  
thank you


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## sunworksco (Jun 23, 2013)

This is what I have. This would be a perfect steam motorbike platform for your Locomobile. There is a lot of length to lay the engine horizontally, like a Stanley engine. I would love to build the frame in aluminum and have it clear anodized. This would make a handsome contrast with the bronze metals.


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## mnay (Jun 24, 2013)

Giovanni
Thanks, that is cool.
That would take some time to build!!!
Mike


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## sunworksco (Jun 25, 2013)

I think the frame is a very practical design for fitting all of the components. It would even work for an electric motorbike.


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## procule (Jun 25, 2013)

I, Thanks for this new possibility of applications, and generate sommes questions.

- what is the source and age of this bicycle article ?
- and it's possible to operate it with CO2 gaz?
and for mnay, i have search the article in steam review and unfotunately i have not find it.
Its be possible to have copie of this article of stanley steam car?

Thanks, Procule


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## sunworksco (Jun 26, 2013)

This is from the 1919 Popular Mechanics book The Boy Mechanic, 800 things for boys to do. You can see the whole book here;
http://www.archive.org/stream/boymechanic03popu#page/n5/mode/2up

Go to page 191


http://www.steamcar.net/stanley/fastest.pdf


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## mnay (Jun 27, 2013)

Giovanni,
Thanks for the information.  I will check it out.
Mike


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## procule (Jul 1, 2013)

Tanks a lot for information Giovanni!

Excuse for delay. 

I have the collection of 17 volume ''mecanics popular'' but 1950 edition.
Incridible source of information.

Tanks again

Procule


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## procule (Jul 1, 2013)

Correction: edition was 1962

Procule


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## mnay (Jul 26, 2013)

Not too much exciting to show, but I completed a couple of handfuls of parts.
I machined the valve end connections, the nuts to move the steam valves and the top brackets that hold the cross rods.  I had to make the brackets as an addition because they normally would have been part of the castings but I am machining from bar stock and changing the design for my convenience in addition to scaling up from the plans


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## mnay (Nov 12, 2013)

After a few weeks of distractions and yard work, I have finally gotten back to my project.  
After studying the plans and the engine I have discovered to my delight that I am close to finishing.

I was able to fabricate and machine the 2 lifting arms and the reversing lever.


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## mnay (Dec 17, 2013)

I had previously build the pistons for this engine with the intent of making a carbon teflon rider ring in the center of the piston.  I decided to go back to the original plan and machined a couple of pistons from cast iron.  I will be making some cast iron rings next.


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## mnay (Jan 6, 2014)

I made 4 cast iron rings to fit the pistons, using the wing-it method.
I machined the rings .050 over size, but with the correct radial thickness.  I then machined a mandrel to fit the id of the rings after they were split and compressed, then turned the od to fit the cylinder bore.
they worked out perfectly and I got them all on without breaking one.
Lucky......


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## mnay (Jan 6, 2014)

With the rings installed on the piston I had to machine a ring compressor sleeve in order to install the piston and rings into the cylinder.  The photo is self explanatory.  It worked great..


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## mnay (Jan 6, 2014)

All of the parts have been machined.  I was not patient enough to deburr and paint everything and wanted to test run so I deburred everything and assembled from the top down.  I took me awhile to figure out how to time the valves, but it worked the first time I put air to it!!!!!!!Finally

[ame]http://youtu.be/Orpe3QFdWLQ[/ame]


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## robcas631 (Jan 6, 2014)

That is awesome!


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## robcas631 (Jan 6, 2014)

sunworksco said:


> This is from the 1919 Popular Mechanics book The Boy Mechanic, 800 things for boys to do. You can see the whole book here;
> http://www.archive.org/stream/boymechanic03popu#page/n5/mode/2up
> 
> Go to page 191
> ...


 

Excellent! Thank you for sharing!


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## robcas631 (Jan 6, 2014)

Allen that is an amazing piece!


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## robcas631 (Jan 6, 2014)

Mnay,

You as well as many others do such wonderful work. I learn a lot just watching and in the future will make step by step photographs myself. Simply amazing!


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## procule (Jan 7, 2014)

Mnay,

I whatch your vidéo and,

i love it, i love it, i love it!!!

I'm realy pride of you!

How have you maintain the cylinder ring in the aluminium piece for the final cut?

Good luck for next.

procule


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## mnay (Jan 7, 2014)

Procule,
I turned a small register to fit the inside of the ring, slightly narrower than the ring.  The ring is then held by a cap that pinches it to the mandrel.
Works very well.
Thanks for your interest.
Mike


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