# Elmers #33---Kind of---



## Brian Rupnow (Dec 9, 2009)

I have decided to build Elmers #33 mill engine--Kind of. I modelled it as per Elmers drawings yesterday, and although his version is very pretty, there are many things that can be simplified without compromising the way the engine works. My smallest fastener that I "stock" is #5-40 shcs., so the engine has been modified to accomodate them. I am working with a box full of scrap aluminum "shorts" from one of my fabricators, so the plans have been modified to suit the peices I have. My smallest end mill is 1/8" diameter, so again, the plans will be tweaked to work with that. Since I have to create detail drawings to work with, I will post them here as usual in case any of you chaps care to build it too. I hope you follow my build, and I hope we have fun.---brian










View attachment ASSEMBLY-33.PDF


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## black85vette (Dec 9, 2009)

Nothing dumb looking about it. Did you remove the packing nuts?  I left them out on my build in favor of just close fits. Cylinder looks like it should be an easier set up also. Is the tube on top intake or exhaust?


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## chuck foster (Dec 9, 2009)

brain this will be a journey of fun in epic proportions, so please led the way :bow:

chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 9, 2009)

black85vette  said:
			
		

> Nothing dumb looking about it. Did you remove the packing nuts? I left them out on my build in favor of just close fits. Cylinder looks like it should be an easier set up also. Is the tube on top intake or exhaust?



Yes, I removed the packing nuts. The tube up top is the air inlet.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 9, 2009)

There's a cylinder in there somewhere!!! I started with a piece of 1 1/2" plate, cut it to 1 1/2" square, set it up in the mill to add a center hole to each end, and drilled one corner for a 3/16" rod which is my drive key when turning between centers. I left one end of it square to act as a reference surface for milling the flat sides on the cylinder. I'm not certain that this is the correct way, but its one of them "Figure it out as I go along" things.


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## black85vette (Dec 9, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Yes, I removed the packing nuts. The tube up top is the air inlet.



I could not tell for sure. The inlet side needs to be outboard of the valve assembly. Either on the body itself or the outside plate.  It has to keep pressure on the sliding piece inside. Not seeing the detail I could not make out how you routed the air. Here is a picture of mine showing the inlet on the cover plate.


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## Cliff (Dec 9, 2009)

Hey Brian another awesome build I will be following along I enjoy your builds and the professional way there done Cliff.


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## JohnS (Dec 10, 2009)

Hi Brian
Elmer's #33, one of my favourite engines to date. I built to plan two years ago. I liked it so much I then decided to build another but increased the size by 50%. As you can see from the pic I added additional bolts and fed the air inlet through the valve chest cover similar to black85vette. This might be an option for you to consider.
http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh200/cormorant2/DSC02173.jpg
(I hope the picture link works - it is a while since I have posted on here !).
I did wonder during the build if the increased size might pose problems with air supply volume but as it turned out the larger engine runs really well on just 5psi and it can also be set to run 'sooooo' slow.

Anyway Brian it's really good to see another take on Elmers Mill Engine and I shall be following your build with great interest.

John S


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## Twmaster (Dec 10, 2009)

John,

That is truly magnificent. Thanks for the photo. I'm eager to see Brian's engine come together too...


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## Deanofid (Dec 10, 2009)

It's a beauty, John. (I mean, both of them.)

Dean


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

Black85vette--you know, it looks like you may be right. I'm a bit confused, as Elmers plans show the valve cover plate as being a blank piece of plate with no air intake on it. I'm not sure if Elmer had it backwards---which seems highly unusual, as he didn't make very many mistakes. On one of the models John shows in his post (the smaller one) he is running a blank plate like Elmer used.


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## black85vette (Dec 10, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Black85vette--you know, it looks like you may be right. I'm a bit confused, as Elmers plans show the valve cover plate as being a blank piece of plate with no air intake on it. I'm not sure if Elmer had it backwards---which seems highly unusual, as he didn't make very many mistakes. On one of the models John shows in his post (the smaller one) he is running a blank plate like Elmer used.



Yes Elmer had the intake on the body not the plate, and on John's smaller engine you can see the air supply is going into the top of the valve body which still puts it outboard of the valve. It was a practical matter for me. The valve body was aluminum and the plate was brass. I opted to go the easy route and just used solder on the brass. On the inside plate with the 9 holes the left 3 and right 3 each go to their end of the cylinder the center 3 go into the exhaust which dumps out below the valve body. It is just a hole on mine. On John's larger engine you can see where his exhaust is connected at the bottom.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

Black85vette--Now I get it--Thanks--I missed the air intake hole #5-40 on the side of Elmers steam chest. That makes the vertical stack on my engine the exhaust. Thanks for clearing that up.


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## tel (Dec 10, 2009)

Yes Brian, that's the usual position for the exhaust outlet. Also you will need a knuckle joint on between the valve spindle and eccentric rod.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

There we go---Glad thats straightened out.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

tel  said:
			
		

> Yes Brian, that's the usual position for the exhaust outlet. Also you will need a knuckle joint on between the valve spindle and eccentric rod.



Tel--I'm using the same joint that Elmer showed in his design. Am I missing something?


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## kvom (Dec 10, 2009)

Brian,

Having those Solidworks images in addition to the drawn plans makes visualization so much easier. Great job! When you finish the build and consolidate the plan upload, I trust you will include the SW images. I would like to try this build too, although I already have a lot of build backlog. Seeing the finished builds is great.

FWIW, I thin having the flywheel inside the bearing post looks better than outside, but I'm guessing one could do it either way.


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## black85vette (Dec 10, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Tel--I'm using the same joint that Elmer showed in his design. Am I missing something?



Joint looks correct to me.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

So, here we are, set up in the mill and milling the flat areas on the cylinder body.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

Machining the valve ports---


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

This is my new chamfering tool in use. I coloured it red with layout dye so I wouldn't keep picking it up and trying to use it as a normal end mill. It works great--in fact, it works so good that I chamfered the one corner where the boss for the exhaust pipe sticks up completely away, then realized that "Hey!!! --That was only supposed to be a partial chamfer!!!"--Oh well, I'm the designer--I'll just change the plan to match the part.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

Here we are, set up to drill the holes that run on an angle from the ports to the end of the cylinder bore. I love my 'Tilt a Whirl" vice!! It really works well for this type of thing.


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## tel (Dec 10, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Tel--I'm using the same joint that Elmer showed in his design. Am I missing something?



S'orrite Brian, just my eyes perhaps, but on the smaller drawing it looked to me like a solid connection - I can see it clearer on the bigger cutaway


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

And here we are, almost finished. I have to tap 18 holes and then this part should be good to go. I didn't drill and ream the bore untill after I had the small holes drilled that are shown in the previous post, because they start so close to the bore that I thought it would be difficult to start the drill if the 1/2" bore was there. The hole you see in the previous post was drilled and reamed to 3/8" diameter, then after the small holes were drilled I put the cylinder back in the lathe and finished opening the bore out to 1/2" diameter.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

This is the drawing of the cylinder. Busy little devil, isn't it!!! Don't worry too much about saving it, I will post a download link when I get the engine finished.





View attachment CYLINDER FOR -33 ORIGINAL SIZE.PDF


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## black85vette (Dec 10, 2009)

Looking good. I like the shape of the cylinder.  I think this was the part that got me to drill and tap as much as possible early because I did all the lathe and mill work only to break off a tap in it. oh:


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 10, 2009)

My tapping went succesfully, just finished it. A few of my tapped holes broke through into the cylinder bore, but I'm not too concerned about it. The bolts will plug the holes, and since this cylinder ends up having a 1/4" thick wall, I don't think its boing to "blow out" . The piston will be made from brass, and should be long enough (1/4") to skate over any of the holes that broke through.


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## black85vette (Dec 10, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> A few of my tapped holes broke through into the cylinder bore, but I'm not too concerned about it. The bolts will plug the holes,



Been there, done that.


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## JohnS (Dec 11, 2009)

Hi Brian

You might consider using studs rather than bolts which would give you several benefits. Most importantly the studs could be 'loctited' into position which would seal up the holes nicely. 

In addition as you are making your cylinder block from aluminium the use of the stud approach would avoid the danger of stripped threads in the relatively soft material. As you know during the build process you may require to fit and remove cylinder and steam chest covers several times which could weaken thread holding power in aluminium. 

In 'real time' these covers were nearly always fitted with studs and nuts, rather than bolts, and as a result provides a more authentic appearance. Oh and BTW studding and nuts is less expensive than nuts and bolts !

Incidentally I have started to use 0.25mm PTFE sheet as gasket material which is available from

http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/PTFESheet/?&gclid=CJLC67HZzZ4CFY8A4wodSk2osA

This provides an excellent air (steam) tight seal without having to overtighten fasteners.

John S


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 11, 2009)

John--Thanks for the information. I will probably use the socket head capscrews, because I have them. I agree, I will have to use some kind of gasket material. For small engines like this I have often used oiled paper, since the compression forces are very low, in the -30 psi range. I may use a piece of 1/16" clear lexan for the valve cover plate, so that the action of the valve is visible. Thank you for taking an interest in my post.---Brian


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## black85vette (Dec 11, 2009)

Brian; another thought regarding the piston. As I recall Elmer had the connecting rod threaded into the piston. I tried that but ended up with a standard wrist pin configuration.  Could have been my lack of equipment or experience but getting the alignment perfect with a rigid connecting rod didn't work for me.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 11, 2009)

Another part done--No rocket science here, but a couple of very scary set-ups. There is a round boss on both ends of the steam chest. I drilled and reamed the 1/8" and the 3/32" holes in the mill while everything was still in the "flat" Then I turned the end of a 1/8" steel rod down to 3/32" and threaded the first 9/32" of full diameter on it with a #5-40 thread. Made up a nut from a piece of brass and assembled it all, then chucked the rod in my 3 jaw on the lathe, and stuck in a 3/16" hex hut for a spacer. I put a "dead center" in the lathe chuck and gave it a bit of a tap to anchor the outboard end of the part, and used my cut-off tool as a turning tool to get in and turn the bosses to finished diameter. Took very light cuts and held my breath the whole time---And just noticed as I posted this that I drilled the hole for the air inlet pipe on the wrong side!!!!


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## rleete (Dec 11, 2009)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> And just noticed as I posted this that I drilled the hole for the air inlet pipe on the wrong side!!!!



Nah. You were just planning on making a mirror image twin. You just didn't know it, yet.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 11, 2009)

Don't feel bad Brian. I was about to make the very same mistake when the UPS guy rang the doorbell and disrupted me. When I got back to the shop. I lost my place in the process, and started all over again to catch the mistake! One cylinder head was reversed in the vise and ready to be drilled for the intake tube! 

That makes the third near miss today!

I think I'll just post what I have and call it a day.

-MB


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## mklotz (Dec 11, 2009)

This is why they invented Sharpies, guys.

Whenever I have a "handed" part, I mark up the sized blank with the hole locations. (I often don't lay out, depending instead on coordinate milling/drilling.) It's saved me many, many times. It's just too easy to get things turned around while experimenting with clamping arrangements and setups.

Part of good machining practice is being aware of one's personal tendencies to make errors and putting in place procedures to prevent such errors, then following those procedures religiously. Discipline is a virtue.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 11, 2009)

Whadaya mean "Tendency to make errors!!!'---Jeez!!!! I've been designing parts since 1965--I've only been making them since 2007.  ;D ;D--At any rate, I'm not to concerned. I'll just make an inlet tube with a blind hole in it and put the "wrong side" hole all the way through.---Although that does bring to light an old "design rule" that I ignored, to my detriment. -Back just after the dinosaurs died out, when I was in my apprenticeship, I was taught to always show part details in the same orientation as they appeared in the General Arrangement drawing. I don't at this stage have a General Arrangement drawing, but my assembly model that I refer to is shown opposite to the orientation of the part in the detail drawing.--And that, boys and girls, is what screwed me up!! The people that made up all those "Rules" did so with good reason.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 11, 2009)

Well, I got this far today, then I got a call to go and quote on a "Real" job---Designing a hydraulic powered boat lift for cabin cruisers---BIG cabin cruisers!!! It looks like I got the contract, so now my engine progress will take a back seat for a while---while I make some money. I've had my own design/engineering company for 10 years now, and I think I've made the same money this year as I did in 1973 or thereabouts. There's only about 2 weeks left to round up my year, so I don't think I'll be competing with Donald Trump this year. :'( :'(


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 12, 2009)

I spent this morning climbing around some existing boat lifts and taking measurements--Hell no, I'm not copying someone elses design--I'm gathering reference material!!! ;D ;D This afternoon I started to make the valve and got as far as what you see in the picture----Then figured it out that I DO NEED a 1/16" end mill after all, and couldn't go any farther. So---I made both cylinder end caps, a piston, and a connecting rod. Now I'm off to my cup of SleepyTime herbal tea (Yucchhh) and then to bed.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 12, 2009)

Looking good Brian.
And I'm glad the 'real job' isn't getting in your way. ;D


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## lathe nut (Dec 13, 2009)

Brain, looking good, you make it seem so simple, easy and fast to do, guess that what a teacher does, I want to make a lot of the things you are making but will have to live to be several hundred years old are get a lot better at machinging, thanks again for sharing your knowledge and skills, Lathe Nut


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## gbritnell (Dec 13, 2009)

Hi Brian, very nice machining. I like your setup for turning the round bosses on the valve. 
gbritnell


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 13, 2009)

I think I'm going to have to redo the piston. I had a piece of 1/2" brass stock chucked up in my 3 jaw (it was a perfect fit in the cylinder "as purchased".) I drilled and tapped the center hole for the piston rod, but when I went to put the oill grooves in the outer diameter with the corner of my parting off tool, I noticed it cutting heavier on one side of the brass piston than on the other. I thought "Huh---Thats kind of wierd!" but thought nothing more of it. Now with the end cap fitted to the cylinder, and it having a reamed hole which I know is on center, I've got one heck of a bind---Piston/rod no likeey to slide!!! Oh well, a new piston won't take much.-On the next one I'll start with a piece of 5/8" dia. brass and turn the o.d. to 0.5" and do the center bore all in one set-up.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 13, 2009)

I'd be interested in knowing why you think that happened. Seems odd.

Corner of parting tool eh? Neat idea. I imagine you rotated the tool post for that?


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## kf2qd (Dec 13, 2009)

If you had a perfect fit before you grooved, then you probably raised a miniscule burr on the edges of the grooves. Polish the piston slightly and it should fit just fine.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 13, 2009)

Yes. I just swung the toolpost 45 degrees. As far as why???---I'm not real sure. could be run-out in my chuck Jaws I suppose. I'll have to do some further investigating.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 13, 2009)

Brian, if you did not machine the outside diameter of your piston to run concentric with the spindles center line on the lathe, then the groove cuts will almost always end up deeper on one side due to the normal run out encountered on most chucks

Did you indicate the outside diameter and get zero run out reading on a full rotation of the work piece? If not, the piece needs to be machined down, and if there isn't enough material you need to use another-larger diameter piece.

Always machine the last finish cuts on the outer diameter of a skirted and/or oil grooved piston LAST to ovoid the problem of an enlarged piston diameter.
Its also important that the outer diameter of a piston is concentric with a tapped piston rod hole. To assure this, the outer diameter must be machined and the piston rod hole must be tapped in ONE set up. In other words, do not disturb or move the piece out and back in the chuck until its finished.

-MB


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 14, 2009)

I just chucked the piston rod in my 3 jaw chuck and put a dial indicator on the piston o.d. The runout is only .003" which is about as much as I can get out of my 3-jaw on a good day.--So--go to plan B. The 0.5" dia boss on the inboard cyl cap is a precision fit into the end of the cylinder---I will take .005 off that boss so the cap can "float" a bit, and that should clear up any concentricity issues.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 14, 2009)

Yep---That fixed it!!!


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 14, 2009)

Time for a few drawings---Some you will see are identical to Elmers, and some are changed to suit my tooling and material. we'll start with the cylinder end caps--










View attachment OUTBOARD HEAD-33.PDF


View attachment INBOARD HEAD-33.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 14, 2009)

And then move on to the steam chest and valve---









View attachment STEAM CHEST-33.PDF


View attachment VALVE-33.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 14, 2009)

The valve plate and valve cover plate---









View attachment VALVE BODY COVER PLATE-33.PDF


View attachment VALVE PLATE-33.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 14, 2009)

And of course the piston and piston rod---









View attachment PISTON-33.PDF


View attachment PISTON ROD.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 14, 2009)

I had to go out today so I picked up a 1/16" carbide end mill, and was able to finish machining the valve. Jeez, its tiny!!! Talk about picking fly poop out of pepper!!!!


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 14, 2009)

Brian, I'm glad your found a solution to the piston fit problem. I had a slight binding problem that would go away if I rotated the piston and rod. Since I used all the correct procedures, I couldn't just let it go till I found the source of the problem. It turned out that the die cut threads on the rod were not concentric. I made a new rod to solve the problem.

Those 1/16" end mills will get very easy to use after a little bit of practice. The first few times I used one It was a scary experience. I saw one flexing, and that was enough to teach me to slow down, and easy does it. I have a few 1/32 end mills that I hope I never have to use.

I draw and re-draw parts that I make with no experience, or even a slight clue of basic drafting techniques. Often times I cant understand my own drawings, strange but true. But somehow I manage to interpret the gibberish and get the parts made.

After I saw the drawings you posted with all the machine moves all plotted out and easy to understand, I must say that I'm very impressed. With drawing like that I could really crank out some quick builds!

Edit; I think its worth mentioning that the outer diameter of stock round bar is not "really" round. I believe its "drawn" through sizing dies that are less than perfect and don't need to be. Bar stock needs to be trued up by machining its outer diameter if "round" is required by its application, such as a miniature piston. The outer diameter of precision ground rod is more suited for applications requiring a good fit.

Keep up the good work. 

-MB


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## Twmaster (Dec 14, 2009)

Brian, those drawings are magnificent. Even -I- can follow them. Bravo! 

 :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 15, 2009)

Slowly we struggle along----Progress is slow when I have "real work" to occupy my time. Thanks for the nice compiments on the drawings. I like design and detail drawings.---I have often said that its nice to have made a lifetime career out of something I enjoy so much.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 15, 2009)

Looking great Brian.

Is that a through hole on the end of the steam chest? On the dome looking end?


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 16, 2009)

No, zee, thats just an indent where I had my live center for the turning operation on the steam chest. In retrospect, if I were to make that part again I would purposely leave that bit longer when I cut out the piece and then grind it smooth after the fact.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 16, 2009)

I'm very pleased to announce that IT WORKS!!!! I am building this engine to get a better understanding of how this type of valve operates, and to figure out some of the design parameters. I assembled the end caps to the cylinders this morning, and put that big chunk of brass on the end of the piston rod as a "Handle" that I could grab and work the piston back and forth (with lots of oil in the cylinder) untill it "freed up" with very little bind. Then I hooked an airline onto the inlet to the steam chest, and operated the valve by pulling the valve rod in and out by hand (It only moves about 1/8" from one position to the other). And HURRAY!!!! When I operate the valve lever, the piston and rod go back and forth quite smartly---Just like its supposed to. I'm Stoked. Now of course I have to build the rest of the engine.----Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 16, 2009)

This evening I got in a little shop time and started to rough out the base, which I made from a piece of aluminum angle. ---It will be a base and also incorporate one of the bearing stands. I have to walk it out to my big stationary belt sander to finish radiusing the top of the bearing stand. I didn't take enough passes on the inside face of the angle while I had it set up in the mill (You can see the unmilled area), so I will have to set it back up in the mill to ensure flatness over the entire area.


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## JMI (Dec 16, 2009)

Brian,

Like the way you use the angle piece for the bearing support.

Jim


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## cfellows (Dec 17, 2009)

Yeah, angle stock and square tubing stock are real handy for engine bases, crankcases, etc. Saves you milling away lots of stock and/or drilling and threading for bolts. I try to use this stuff a lot on my engines.

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 17, 2009)

So far, so good----This will all have to be blown apart for "finishing", but it is going together as I had planned. It will start to get exciting when I get the crank finished and some connecting rods in there.


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## SteveG (Dec 17, 2009)

Nice work and great thread Brian Thm: 

I really like your method of machining the cylinder and I do wish I had read this thread before I started mine!


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## lathe nut (Dec 17, 2009)

Neat, Neat, Neat, it will soon be alive, love the progress and pictures, not counting those wonderful drawing, thanks, Lathe Nut


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 18, 2009)

I don't even want to talk about the work involved in the cross head and guides----Making them is one thing, Getting everything to fit and still slide freely is a whole different story. The local nut and bolt store didn't have any #5-40 x 1" long socket head capscrews, so I resorted to making some ugly studs untill they get some in for me.--But---WE ARE PROGRESSING!!!


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## black85vette (Dec 18, 2009)

Yup. Getting the cylinder, piston, head, guide and slide all working together was one of the tough parts of the build for me. You are moving along nicely. Everything is looking really good.


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## JimN (Dec 19, 2009)

Looking good, and thanks, I thought I was the only one who had to fiddle for hours to get everything lined up and rolling smooth.

JimN


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 19, 2009)

Bit by bit we struggle on----Todays efforts produced a crankshaft and connecting rod.--And after much friggin' about, it turns over without too much binding.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 20, 2009)

Here we in 'Run-in" mode. The flash freezes the motion, but trust me, its wailing around there at about 300 RPM, everything soaked in oil. After 20 minutes of this it will turn so freely that there will be practically no friction in the system. I have removed the outbaord cylinder cap, because I wanted to make certain that there was no interferance between it and the piston.--There is actually about 0.040" clearance.


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## lathe nut (Dec 20, 2009)

I am jumping with joy a lot of progress, long hours and some wear and it going to be smooth running look great, very nice project when you are done it will copy and paste all drawing, pictures and comments, thanks, looking forward to seeing it running,thanks again for sharing with us, Lathe Nut


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 21, 2009)

All things must come to an end, and today marks the end of this build. I have learned a great deal of insight into how this type of valve works, and I think I can now go ahead and design my own based on what I have learned. Thank you Elmer Verburg, and thank you, readers for following my build. Later this week I will upgrade all the drawings and post a download link for anybody who wants to build this engine.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 21, 2009)

And of course, what good is a build without the requisite video-----Brian


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## seagar (Dec 21, 2009)

Thank you brian ,I really like it . :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Ian(seagar)
Coffs Harbour 
Australia.


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## black85vette (Dec 21, 2009)

Nice work and some good changes to make it more buildable. I like the cylinder shape on this one.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 21, 2009)

Great job Brian. Running real nice and it seems to be low pressure too. :bow:

I just love that "whistle style" exhaust on the top of the cylinder assembly!

Beautiful!

-MB


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## Twmaster (Dec 21, 2009)

Sweet running engine Brian!


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 21, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> I just love that "whistle style" exhaust on the top of the cylinder assembly!



Same here. Sets it apart. Really neat.


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## lathe nut (Dec 21, 2009)

Yes that is severally awful nice, it looks good and runs great, great work as you always do, love the exhaust that is cute, yes looking forward to the plans, thanks again for what you share, Lathe Nut


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## rake60 (Dec 21, 2009)

*VERY SMOOTH RUNNER!*

Excellent build Brian! :bow: 

Rick


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## cfellows (Dec 21, 2009)

Nice build, brian. That's a nice looking and very nice running engine.

Chuck


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## kvom (Dec 22, 2009)

Another nice job. 

I was wondering if milling the crosshead guides into the base would help with alignment issues during assembly.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

kvom  said:
			
		

> Another nice job.
> 
> I was wondering if milling the crosshead guides into the base would help with alignment issues during assembly.



I doubt it. The crosshead guides have to be steel because of the wear factor, while the base is only aluminum.


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## kvom (Dec 22, 2009)

I was thinking of making the base from steel.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

The valve rod and flywheel--










View attachment VALVE ROD.PDF


View attachment FLYWHEEL-33.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

The crosshead and guides













View attachment CROSSHEAD.PDF


View attachment CROSSHEAD GUIDES-33.PDF


View attachment CROSSHEAD TOP STRAP-33.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

The crosshead spacer and the sub base--









View attachment SUB BASE-33 MOD.PDF


View attachment SPACER.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

Both ends for the valve rod and the "assembly" of the valve rod













View attachment END FOR VALVE ROD-2.PDF


View attachment END FOR VALVE ROD.PDF


View attachment SUB ASSEMBLY OF VALVE ROD.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

Crankshaft and eccentric









View attachment SUB ASSY OF CRANKSHAFT.PDF


View attachment ECCENTRIC-33.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

The "nut" that sets in the center of the valve and the valve rod screws into---





View attachment NUT.PDF


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## 1hand (Dec 22, 2009)

Brian,
Another great build. Wondering how many sheets there will be in your plans? Don't want to miss any. Thinking I may use your plans for my first build. Either this or your Beam. I want to scale them up and your plans are so easy to follow as are your work in progress updates. Gives me a idea of what the part is to look like when its made. Some times I have a hard time visualizing a part from a 2D drawing. Thanks for all you do to help us out.


Matt


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

Air inlet and outlet tubes









View attachment AIR INLET TUBE.PDF


View attachment AIR OUTLET TUBE.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

And an assembly (The .pdf file has 2 sheets)





View attachment ASSEMBLY-33 WITH BILL OF MATERIALS.PDF


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

That should be everything---If something is missing, please let me know.---Brian


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## ozzie46 (Dec 22, 2009)

Nice engine and thanks loads Brian.

 Ron


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 22, 2009)

this link should get you all of the .pdf files
http://www.mediafire.com/?qkjgmwzznww


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## 1hand (Dec 22, 2009)

My printer is exhausted now. Thanks again Brian. :big:


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## lathe nut (Dec 22, 2009)

Thanks Brian, I have it all saved and printed a copy to bring to old friend Cedric that is the machinist, the one that made the Slinky machine, he is like the rest of us going to love this, I hope to soon get started on several of your projects, thanks again, Lathe Nut


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## Artie (Dec 22, 2009)

G'day Brian, I enjoyed the thread and the running engine very much. Like Tel you dont waste any time do you? Im ambling on with mine and enjoying myself immensely. Great therapy... 

Cheers Artie


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## BigBore (Dec 23, 2009)

Thanks from a true green horn! I haven't even picked out my first lathe yet. You know that feeling you get of anticipation when you know you are starting a new journey? Your threads on W's IP and the "cleanness" of your drawings, give me that same pumped up feeling of anticipation and false confidence. What a rush! I can do it! ( I think?)

Thanks, Brian.


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## Twmaster (Dec 23, 2009)

Plans downloaded. Thanks for the detailed build and very well drawn plans!


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## Twmaster (Dec 23, 2009)

Brian, question about the plans...

The page for the eccentric...

Am I reading this drawing correctly... The offset for the center of the eccentric is only .050" from the center of the crankshaft?

Also, I do not see the bore of the hole being called out in the drawing. I'm assuming it's .375" for the crankshaft?


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## CMS (Dec 23, 2009)

Thanks for sharing your talents and abilities with with everyone, a gift well received. Your ultiment payback will be a post here in the future, "Building Brian's engine".


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2009)

I missed the bearings and left a dimension off the eccentric, so here they are


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## Twmaster (Dec 23, 2009)

Thank you Brian. Again, am I reading the drawing correctly? Is the center of the eccentric .050" off center from the crankshaft hole?


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 23, 2009)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> Thank you Brian. Again, am I reading the drawing correctly? Is the center of the eccentric .050" off center from the crankshaft hole?


Yes, that is correct. The valve only moves a total of 0.100" in its full travel.


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## 1hand (Dec 23, 2009)

Brian,
Little off topic, but been looking for your hit n miss plans. Just wondering if they exist, and where I would find them? Just one more Question..........Whats your next build?


Thanks Matt


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## Cliff (Dec 23, 2009)

Hey Brian another awesome build I really enjoy following your builds and the professionalism is top notch. I did have a request the prints that you posted today in post number 103 if they are revisions could make them so we can download them. I am looking forward to your next build. Cliff


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## Twmaster (Dec 23, 2009)

Thank you Brian. Understand .100" total travel on the eccentric.


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## lathe nut (Dec 24, 2009)

Cliff, I can tell you what I did and it worked, right click on the drawing, hit copy, opened MS office, Paste, put it to the size I wanted, full page, added all three of the drawing, then did the file save as, in a PDF, there probably is a better and easier way but I am not the best at computer things, Lathe Nut


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 24, 2009)

Go to post #95 and click on the download link. It will get you ALL the drawings as updated .pdf files.


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 24, 2009)

1hand  said:
			
		

> Brian,
> Little off topic, but been looking for your hit n miss plans. Just wondering if they exist, and where I would find them? Just one more Question..........Whats your next build?
> 
> 
> Thanks Matt



Matt--Try this
http://www.mediafire.com/?ghmqmclvdzm


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## bearcar1 (Dec 24, 2009)

Brian, I wish to thank you for all of your hard work in putting these plans together and for sharing them with us. I appreciate it as I am certain a lot of others here do as well. It is ALWAYS enjoyable to run across such plans that are as clear to read as well as understand. Bravo!! :bow:

BC1
Jim


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 24, 2009)

Bearcar----Is been my pleasure to do so. I love it when I get emails from literally all over the world, from people who are building "my" engines. This has been a terrible year for me, work wise, due to the massive slow down in the manufacturing economy, so its been good to have websites like this one to post my plans on and help me pass the time. I hope for everyones sake that the coming year is a "busier" year and that we all have lots of "real" work to keep us occupied. Merry Christmas to all!!!---Brian


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## JimN (Dec 24, 2009)

Merry Xmas and wishing you a great New Year Brian.

JimN
Abbotsford, BC


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## lathe nut (Dec 24, 2009)

Brian your way is a lot better than mine, but I did not want to bother you, so figured out a way, probably was not the best, again thanks for all you have done with the pictures and the wonderful drawings, Lathe Nut


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 26, 2009)

I just added the bearings and the eccentric drawing to the .zip file in post #95.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 18, 2010)

I just read through this entire post again, because I was thinking about it while reading 1hands build in progress. A couple of points here---Everybody loves my crazy steam whistle style exhaust stack, so I am including a drawing of it---The other thing is, Lathenut--You get a karma point purely because you had so darn many nice things to say about this build!!!---Brian


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## 1hand (Jan 18, 2010)

Brian,

I thought you said "Matt-Just for You"....What da heck?.............LOL

Thanks lot Brain. What you do for us, we can't thank you enough.
Matt

There, I put ya over 200.....you've earned them.


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