# Good Lathe Deal from Enco



## rake60 (Feb 1, 2012)

We needed a decent tool room lathe at work. 
There is just NO precision left in the Old South Bend Fourteen there.
The problem has been the power in the plant is 480V or 208V 3 phase. 
Every lathe I have found is 220V single phase.

When I clicked on Enco's site this morning, I thought _*THIS*_ was interesting.

Not a bad price, it can be rewired to 110V and we had a 10% off corporate discount code.
So I emailed Enco to ask about the motor rewiring. They said the rewiring could be done by 
them on request at the time of order.

With the 10% discount, we got the lathe with cabinet stand and $200 worth of tooling for 
about $100 less than the advertised sale price for the lathe/stand combo. 
It will be delivered in about 15 days.

Review to follow...

Rick


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## video_man (Feb 1, 2012)

There's a 12x36 lathe group on Yahoo where a lot of the guys have this lathe. One thing they don't like is the control handles, no knobs to protect your hands....one guy stuck golf balls (!) on the ends. Others, I think, have bought the plastic ball-ends that Enco sells for not a lot of money and threaded the handles to accept...


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## Mike N (Feb 1, 2012)

rake60  said:
			
		

> We needed a decent tool room lathe at work.
> There is just NO precision left in the Old South Bend Fourteen there.
> The problem has been the power in the plant is 480V or 208V 3 phase.
> Every lathe I have found is 220V single phase.
> ...


You can get single phase power from a 3 phase circuit, just use the 2 low voltage legs from your 3 phase power. We do this all the time. You can get single phase 110V or 220V from the 3 phase circuit. You shouldn't need to have the lathe modified at all!


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## rake60 (Feb 1, 2012)

Mike N  said:
			
		

> You can get single phase power from a 3 phase circuit, just use the 2 low voltage legs from your 3 phase power. We do this all the time. You can get single phase 110V or 220V from the 3 phase circuit. You shouldn't need to have the lathe modified at all!



I did talk to our electrician about using 2 legs of the 208V 3 phase for 220V single phase.
He suggested we not do that with the power we have coming into the plant.
We're at the end of the line on a distribution trunk.

Rick


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## JorgensenSteam (Feb 1, 2012)

Don't forget, you can always add a single-phase buck-and-boost transformer to go from 208 to 240 volts. Probably cheaper to just get the motor at the right voltage if you have that option, but for used equipment, this is a handy solution.


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## Mike N (Feb 1, 2012)

rake60  said:
			
		

> I did talk to our electrician about using 2 legs of the 208V 3 phase for 220V single phase.
> He suggested we not do that with the power we have coming into the plant.
> We're at the end of the line on a distribution trunk.
> 
> Rick


If you wire it up with 2 legs of your 208 3 phase power the little motor on your lathe won't care. Our 3 phase power is 240 volts at our plant. Have you put a volt meter on your 208 volt circuit to see if it runs real low? I sure wouldn't be afraid to try it. If Enco sets up your control panel for 110 volt single phase power the low voltage will still be a bigger problem!


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## lathe nut (Feb 2, 2012)

rake60, I got that HF 14X40 Lathe a while back and its 3 phase, that is a fine machine, very accurate, Lathe Nut


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## gbritnell (Feb 2, 2012)

Hi Rick,
It looks like a very nice machine. It says you can get a Baldor (American made) motor installed on it but for an extra $600.00 I would use the original and then replace it if it ever failed. Seems somewhat pricey to me. 
gbritnell


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## rake60 (Feb 2, 2012)

I'm anxious to see what we get out of it.

It probably won't be used every day, just when someone breaks a machine part that can be
made in-house.

I saw something interesting else on Enco's site today.
_*CHECK OUT THIS DISCOUNT!*_

And then, the promo code: *SUPERP* will get you 20% off until Sunday Feb. 5th on orders 
over $150 Machinery Excluded.

Do the math on that one!

Rick


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## Steve J (Feb 5, 2012)

Rick
 I believe the 20% enco code is SUPERC. I ordered some stuff friday and thats what I used. Quite a savings and also ordered it out of the sale catalog and got a double savings.
                       steve


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## rake60 (Feb 7, 2012)

The lathe and stand were delivered at noon today.
I did get it unpacked, stand assembled and lathe mounted to the stand.
_(Thanks Vern, Butch and the forklift for your help!)_







Now the dreaded cleaning off the dragon grease begins.

It was shipped with no oil in the headstock or apron. I will open both of them
up to check for chips, filings or any loose debris before adding the oil.

It may be a couple of days before it is under power.

Rick


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## lathe nut (Feb 7, 2012)

rake60, WOW, that is a good looking lathe, looks better in the shop than it does in the Picture, hope to get to use it first, Lathe Nut


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## rake60 (Feb 7, 2012)

It would have been nice if the paint on the stand matched the lathe but I guess
that really doesn't matter.

Rick


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## rake60 (Feb 8, 2012)

I got the lathe all cleaned up today.
Oil reservoirs are filled and all the lube point are oiled.

Hit the power button and it will not start up.
Enco was supposed to have rewired it for 110 volts.
A quick check of the control voltage from the transformer reads 13 volts.
That is supposed to be 24 volts. They had not rewired it. 

I rewired the the transformer to the specs in the manual and connected the Z2 wire 
from the motor to the Z2 on the connector bar. Now the machine will power up but the 
motor heats up and kicks the breaker.

I called Enco and they faxed me a diagram for the jumper locations in the motor.
It doesn't match any of the jumper location diagrams that are on the motor it's self, but I 
do what they suggest anyway. Still popping breakers any I'm out of time for the day.

Tomorrow I'll try the jumper locations that *are* on the motor to see if any of them will work.
If not, we'll find out just how good Enco's warranty is.

I may have smoked the motor but I had assumed it was wired as we had requested and listed on 
the packing slip. Even when I called their tech support today they said, 
_"that was supposed to be rewired here"_.

Uh, Yeah! : 

Now I'm wondering if they did they rewire one for 110 Volt and ship it to someone who thinks 
it's wired for 220 Volt? 


Rick


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## ShopShoe (Feb 9, 2012)

Been there, done that. Can you take photos of the relevant connections/terminal boards to send to them? Perhaps the motor they used was slightly different and the tech that did it just assumed that the terminal locations were just like the last one he did when they weren't.

--ShopShoe


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## Mike N (Feb 9, 2012)

The motor heats up and kicks the breaker.

Rick


What amp breaker is kicking out 15 amp or 20 amp. You may be under rated in amperage with the 110 circuit. I would still wire it up 220 single phase a 15 amp circuit would be plenty, you may need a 30 amp circuit wired at 110 volts!

My China lathe would keep tripping the heater relay in the control panel until I turned up the amperage to its highest setting. My lathe came in wired with the forward & reverse relays wired backwards. The wire size they use in the control panel & motor is very marginal for a 110Volt 20 Amp circuit!


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## rake60 (Feb 9, 2012)

It is tripping the breaker/heater in the electrical box on the machine.

I did take some fuzzy cell phone photos to show them what I had done to rewire it.














They never got back to me today, but I'm pretty sure I know what in going on with it.

When I first hooked the power to it, it would start but heat up immediately.
Then it would not start with any load at all on the motor pulley.

With no load, it will spin slow for a few revs then jump to speed when the centrifugal switch
in the motor breaks contact. I'm thinking that switch may have been sticking shut at first. 
That would have kept it running on the start windings. That would also burn the contacts
so they may not be connecting now to run on the start windings.

Or it could be a bad start capacitor.

I want to rip into it but if I do that before Enco gives me the OK, I'll void the warranty.

We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Rick


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## Mike N (Feb 9, 2012)

Did you check to see if the Heater Relay is set to its highest possible setting?

The knob will turn a full 360 degrees so you need to play around with it until it works!

I had this happen on 2 machines already. I don't see the heater reply in the pictures you posted.


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## rake60 (Feb 9, 2012)

I didn't take a picture of the heater.
I believe it's tripping is more of an effect than a cause.

After I do get it running we will need to change the breaker for that outlet circuit.
It has a 10 Amp in it right now. It hasn't been a major yet but know that won't hold 
up to a rough cut power drain for long.

Rick


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## Don1966 (Feb 9, 2012)

Rick the heater as you call it is a klaxon probably with a reset on it. It the Motor was connected 220v and you are changing it to 120v the new connection take this into consideration and rewire the klaxon for the added current of the parallel windings, so if this extra winding has not been rerouted into the klaxon it will trip. In other word if both windings are going through the same path as original set up you now have twice the current and it will trip.Do you have a connection diagram on the motor?

Regards Don


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## rake60 (Feb 9, 2012)

I'll scan and post it tomorrow evening.

I'm still hoping the techs at Enco can give me a quick and easy solution.

Rick


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## Don1966 (Feb 9, 2012)

My apology Rick, you have a large motor so you must have a contractor and a heater block. I read a couple more of your write ups. The heater block is now too small and will need replacing if it doe not give you enough range. If you have a control transformer in your circuit it to must be reconnected for 120v. If your motor heats up it is probably connected wrong. The reversing switch on single phase motor may be effected when you reconnect the motor since it is controlling the starting winding also. The starting winding is center taped to the run winding for 220v and paralleled to it for 120v this could cause you problems unless connected properly.

regards Don


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## rake60 (Feb 9, 2012)

There are separate contractors for forward and reverse.
The motor will run in either direction if there is absolutely no load on it at start up.

Way back in 1978 I graduated from a vocational/technical school with a certification in electronics.
That ranged from radio and television repair to industrial electronics.

You don't repair radios or televisions any more. Throw it away and buy a new one.
Industrial electronics hasn't really changed that much over the past 30 years where basic electric 
motor operation is involved.

I've checked all of the obvious.
I can see a capacitor starting out low and slowly building on the ohmmeter as it should.
But I do not know which one it's reading because this motor has both a start and run capacitor in it. 

The only way to tell for sure is to crack the motor open and see which one has the highest uF.
The start capacitor will have a much higher impedance than the run capacitor.

I believe the start capacitor in this motor is supposed to be 150 microfarad at 220 volts.
My experience tells me that should be at least 200MFD at 120 volts, but that's not my call at this point.

I'll wait for Enco's techs to tell me if I'm right.
(And keep the warranty valid on the lathe.)

Rick


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## Don1966 (Feb 9, 2012)

My apology again, the start capacitor should be what you are reading since the centrifugal switch makes the run capacitor after it is started. If the start capacitor is ok you should have good torque at start up. If it has no power after it starts the run capacitor is not in the circuit. I agree with you wait for enco to get back with you.

Best Regards Don


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## Shopguy (Feb 9, 2012)

My two bits worth
Way back in 1978 when I bought my Tida lathe (made in Taiwan) I had the same problem out of the crate running it on 110 Vac. Mine came with a cord all ready to plug into the 110 but when I plugged it in I had pretty much the same results that you have experienced.  It turned out that hooked up for 220 volts the motor windings,start and run, are in series. For 110 operation they have to be in parallel. Guess which configuration it was? I only have a three button control (forward, reverse and stop) yours appears more complex It took me a while to figure it out. I finally borrowed a book out of the library at the technical institute where I taught.

Keep smiling
Ernie J


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## Stan (Feb 10, 2012)

A comment to cause confusion with all the other previous comments.
It is quite common for the start winding in 120/240 motors to be 120 volts in either configuration. The start winding is tied to the end of the run winding that is either one end in parallel or the junction point in series.


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## rake60 (Feb 10, 2012)

I had called Enco Thursday morning at 11:00 AM.
I was told that one of their machinery tech would call me back within 24 hours.
That wasn't happening.

I checked the power in the 208 volt 3 phase plug next the that lathe.
It was showing 118 volts on both legs. That's close enough for me.
I rewired the machine for 220 volt and wired up a 3 phase plug with no neutral.

The motor does exactly the same thing. It a MOTOR problem!

At 1:30 PM Friday one of our managers called Enco again and managed to get a tech on the phone.
This guy suggested our amperage was too low to start the motor, on *both* the 110 and 208 circuits.

This is in a one year old manufacturing plant not a garage hobby shop.

After I heard all of this I wanted to talk to that tech. 
We called Enco back again. They're going to get back to us again. 
*SOMEDAY* ???

I am not impressed with Enco's customer service OR tech support.

That manager from work decided to call Enco back again after he went home and 
quite openly expressed his displeasure with handling of this matter.

He called me to say Enco has decided we will have a new motor next Monday 
morning at no charge.

I will continue this review, but if you are considering buying the import 12 X 36 lathe, 
I would recommend buying it from Grizzly. I know they respond to customer problems.

Rick


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## Mike N (Feb 10, 2012)

Bypass the heater relay & it will work. Thats how I fixed my jet lathe!

These relays are junk!


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## rake60 (Feb 10, 2012)

The entire electrical system of these lathes are junk but they can be made to work.

I want to see if Enco will go the distance to see that through.
It isn't looking good at this point.

After the warranty is expired I'll make it work as I think it should. 

Rick


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## rake60 (Feb 15, 2012)

It took a full week but Enco did come through in the end.

They sent me a new motor at no cost.
Not another import motor but a USA made Baldor.
_(Sorry about the sloppy cell phone photos again.)_







They did not sent the wiring diagram for the machine with it so that took another
day. I wired it up on the two legs of a 208 volt 3 phase circuit as I had done with 
the original motor and it starts and runs great!

Still a couple problems. The Baldor motor is larger than the import motor.
There isn't much room for belt adjustment, maybe 1/4" and the original B-31 belt is
too short. A B-32 worked out perfectly on this machine.

The motor covers the original belt adjustment rod hole, but with this motor weighing
55 pounds, it may not even need it.

It's still a very tight installation.
The cover would not go back on, so we had to cut away an area on the back side 
to clear the motor pulley and belt. 






Now it's all cleaned up lubricated and ready for some trials.






That may have to wait a couple weeks because we have a production run to work through.
After that is done I'll have time to get back to it.

I can tell you the 3 jaw chuck has a TIR of .0015"
That was a nice surprise!

It was interesting to see it spinning the chuck smoothly at 1550 RPM.
I don't know why you would need that speed on a 12" lathe, but it works fine.

Rick


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## kvom (Feb 15, 2012)

> It was interesting to see it spinning the chuck smoothly at 1550 RPM.
> I don't know why you would need that speed on a 12" lathe, but it works fine.



My Monarch will spin up to 4000. I haven't had the nerve to go over 2000 though, and that with a collet chuck.  ;D

I guess drilling tiny holes it would be useful.


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## steamer (Feb 15, 2012)

Oh I've had my 12" Logan to 2000rpm.....yes it goes there without mods.. ;D

Dave


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## rake60 (Feb 15, 2012)

9 X 20 lathes will spin 2000 RPM.

The thin belt is tight in that position so you can't really disengage the drive for
start up. It dims the lights when it starts, but it will go to speed.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvuVW1UvJis[/ame]

I wouldn't try that in reverse. It would probably spin the chuck off.

I have never used that speed for any turning or drilling operation myself.

Rick


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## steamer (Feb 15, 2012)

My Logan has the mechanical variable speed drive...and a 3 phase converter...so it just goes.

Dave


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## rake60 (Feb 22, 2012)

It's getting closer to being ready to run.

We ordered _*THIS*_ PhaseII QCTP from Enco today.
Great sale price on a wedge QCTP and we had a 20% discount code to make it even better.

Then tonight I ordered my own personal tools for it from _*Shars Tool*_.
I am not affilated with Shars Tool in any way. They are just a very good supplier of import tools that I can afford.

A set of 5/8" shank turning tools: _*LINK HERE*_.
_(I know some have had problems with these tools but I have had good luck with them. They are not built for hogging!)_

10 inserts with a 1/32" corner radius for those tools: *LINK HERE*.

And, a couple P-Type cutoff blades to fit the PhaseII holder: _*LINK HERE*_.

With the current production demands, I don't know when I'll have time to get all of that stuff set
up and made user friendly. 
I hope it's soon!

Rick


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## sunworksco (Feb 22, 2012)

All of this has me thinking of not ever buying Chinese lathes!
I would rather buy US or European makes. :-\


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## rake60 (Feb 23, 2012)

I have bought a lot of import tools and equipment from Enco in the past and will 
probably continue to do so.

They did drop the ball on this purchase, but they did come through in the end.

Rick


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## rake60 (Mar 1, 2012)

I had another chance to use the new lathe today.

When I walked in this morning the molding foreman asked me if I could take .015" off the 
bottom face of a press punch. I asked if it was hardened. He said yes.

It turned out to be about 50 Rockwell C." 

250 feet per minute at .007" feed, no problem at all!
I was impressed by how well it cut.

Rick


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## n4zou (Mar 1, 2012)

I know how frustrating it must have been after it was delivered with a bad motor. Now look at the bright side because it's got that Baldor motor now when you need it.


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## rake60 (Mar 8, 2012)

When I started the lathe up today it was making some unusual noises and 
jumping all over the place.

I believe someone tried to change spindle speeds without stopping the chuck.
It took out the outboard bearing on the input shaft and damaged the inboard bearing.

That outer bearing was *JUNK* new!






I worked for a bearing supply company for 10 years from 1979 until 1989.
I've _*never*_ seen rollers in a ball bearing break as these have.

Rick


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## dgjessing (Mar 8, 2012)

Yikes! I've never seen that kinda wear either. ???


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## Mike N (Mar 8, 2012)

Wow! I bet the gearbox is full of swarf! Is this the main spindle bearing? Looks like the balls were soft!


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## rake60 (Mar 8, 2012)

I don't think any of the debris actually got into the gearbox.
It was the outer bearing that blew up so most of the broken pieces were in the end cover.







I did run a magnet around the bottom of the gearbox but it came out clean.

Did you know the bottom of that side cover is about 1/2" below the oil level in the head stock.
I know it now! :

Also, that inner gear is too big to fit out the hole under that side cover.
Getting it off and back on the shaft takes both hands under the oil feeling for the key and keyway.
That was entertaining.

Rick


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## n4zou (Mar 8, 2012)

I've seen that type of damage before. One of the balls was defective. When it sheared off a splinter that splinter acted as a ramp twisting the bearing races as a ball rolled over it. It's like driving your car up on ramps so you can change the oil. In this case it was like putting the car up on ramps without any overhead clearance. Consequently the car flattened and pushed out the walls too. Due to the ramping effect the bearing became wider with the outside race pushing one way and the inner race going the other putting a huge load on the other bearing through the shaft wiping it out too. The balls all went like falling dominoes as more splinters and shards were produced from the pressures involved.


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## rake60 (Mar 9, 2012)

n4zou, that explanation would make perfect sense.

There are 7 other ball bearings in that headstock. 
Now I'm wondering how many of them may have one defective ball in them.

Rick


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## steamer (Mar 9, 2012)

I was thinking the same thing Rick.. As you remove various parts change the bearings out with known quality items.

Dave


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## n4zou (Mar 9, 2012)

It might not be a bad idea to change them all out. Have you contacted ENCO about it yet? It should still be in warranty so you may be able to get them to pay for changing out every bearing in the headstock.


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## rake60 (Mar 9, 2012)

The bearings are not expensive, it's just a pain getting to them.

Rick


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## Deanofid (Mar 10, 2012)

Gee, reading through this thread, a guy just might get the impression that there is not much to 
recommend that lathe with all its problems. Nor for Enco, for that matter. Too bad.


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## jackfrost (Apr 4, 2012)

This is the poster child thread for: *"DONT BUY A LATHE FROM ENCO !!"*


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## rake60 (Apr 4, 2012)

jackfrost  said:
			
		

> This is the poster child thread for: *"DONT BUY A LATHE FROM ENCO !!"*



I wouldn't go that far.
They did make it right in the end.

I did have a much better experience with Grizzly when I bought my G4000 9 X 19 lathe.
There were some problems with the spindle bearings, I talked to a real person on the very first 
call and the problem was resolved with one call.

Rick


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## Mosey (Apr 4, 2012)

How about inviting Enco to comment on their lathes, bearings, and warrantee for our site? They have always been good about issues for me.


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## steamer (Apr 4, 2012)

I like that idea Mosey.....too bad the lathe is not in a home shop though.....Rake I leave that to you to decide.

Dave


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## Deanofid (Apr 4, 2012)

That sounds like a chance for Enco to explain themselves. I have bought from them dozens of times
and never had a problem with their service when I needed to return something. Rick's experience
with the service dept. concerning this lathe would put me off them if I were a first time buyer. No
excuse for the situation in this thread!


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## steamer (Apr 5, 2012)

The only issue Dean, is that the lathe was bought for the place that Rick Works. I wouldn't want to generate any friction between Rick and his boss......other than that....I completely agree....They got some splainin to do Lucy!

Dave


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## rake60 (Apr 5, 2012)

My boss has quite an negative view of Enco.
This purchase was his first major buy from them and they seemed to drop the ball at every turn.

I have had situations were I'd do something wrong, fix it and create a couple more wrongs in the process.
I have done that to both customers and bosses is the past.

This was the first Enco deal that I've ever had go so wrong, and I have bought a lot from them, personally 
and for work related things.

I will invite them to comment, but would be very surprised to receive any type of response. 

Rick

PS: I did send an email to Enco's customer service department extending an invitation for their comment.
   We will see if there is any response to that.


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## jackfrost (Apr 17, 2012)

I will say this.

I have bought from several sources over the years, but major machinery, only from local industrial auctions were I could see the equipment, Harbor Freight ( i am lucky to have one 10 min from my house), and Grizzly.

Grizzly has by far the BEST customer service. I have had issues with delivery damage or bad parts for my Bandsaw, Mill/Drill and my G4003. In all cases Grizzly came through like a champ !

No questions asked. Either replacement parts were shipped out immediately, or arrangements to pick up a lathe (my first G4003 had a major casting crack under the bed), and delivery me a new one with lift gate service to my house for free.

That's how customer service should be. And please note. This my hobby. Not my livelyhood, so I can easily see how a business man that depends on his tools to generate revenue would be pissed.


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## steamer (Apr 20, 2012)

I look forward to their response.  Last I looked there was 11000 people here watching....and I'm sure it's increasing daily!


Not bad for a "little ol thing" Rick.....hats off to ya bud!

 :bow:


Dave


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## rake60 (Apr 20, 2012)

It's like _*"deja vu all over again"*_.

When we were originally having the problems with this lathe, Enco kept passing it on to
someone who could _*"better understated the problem and bring it to a resolution"*_.
That would include the guy who was sure our amperage was too low. :wall:

I guess this request hasn't made it to the person who is willing to reply just yet. :

I'm just one voice. 
If anyone else would like to ask them to reply, this is the address to send it to. 
[email protected] 
If they get enough requests maybe they will respond, but I doubt that will ever happen.

Please copy and paste a link to this thread in your email to them.

Rick


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## sunworksco (Apr 26, 2012)

Mr. Hurt:

Thank you for bringing this bulletin board thread to Encos attention  we were unaware of this conversation taking place at the Home Model Engine Machinist website, and we welcome the opportunity to address any concerns regarding Encos products.

Ive reviewed the conversation thread at the, and I have to say that its pretty embarrassing. An internal review of events on our side of things shows that there were several errors made by Enco associates that just shouldnt have happened. Were working on getting those issues corrected, and we will also be working with Rake60 (Rick) to ensure that any outstanding issues that he may have regarding his bench lathe are addressed to his satisfaction.

For the record, Encos machinery warranty backs our machinery for 1 year on parts, 90 days labor. The complete details of our warranty can be viewed here: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPAGE?PMPAGE=CustomerSupport/Terms.htm#warranty. Enco has been in business for over 70 years and we pride ourselves in delivering quality tools at the lowest guaranteed prices. If we ever disappoint you in any way, we would always appreciate the opportunity to speak with you and try to set things right.

If you have specific concerns or questions, please feel free to call/contact me at the email address or phone number below. Thank you again for bringing this to our attention, and I hope that we hear from you again soon!

Best Regards!

Doug Styes
Operations Manager, Enco
Toll Free: 800-873-3626, ext. 426501
Direct: 678-309-6501
Email: [email protected]


From this email:
Hello, 
I was going to purchase your products but have decided to wait until your deaf ears are fixed ! 

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=17438.msg190173;topicseen#msg190173


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## rake60 (Apr 27, 2012)

Enco is certainly responding now.

I did not have time to talk with Mr. Styes today, but will try to do that early next week.

Rick


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## Deanofid (Apr 27, 2012)

Seems sometimes the squeaky wheel has to fall plumb off to get some grease. 
Squeak away, Rick!


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## rake60 (May 17, 2012)

We are receiving repair parts from Enco at no cost, to finally fix our lathe issues.
After all of those parts are in, Enco is going to send a machine technician to do the repairs
again at no cost.

Today I discovered something else about the lathe.

One of the 3rd shift guys asked me if I could turn a 14 inch long section of a shaft for him.
Not exactly work related, but I told him I could do it for him as long as it was alright to run
a center in it. He said that wouldn't be a problem at all.

The tailstock has never been aligned, so today I chucked up a 2 foot
length of 1" stock close to the chuck and center drilled it.
Then I pulled 18" out and engaged the dead center.

I cut a 1/4" long witness mark close to the tailstock, then moved up 12" toward the chuck and
cut another 1/4" wide witness mark at the same indicator reading. 

The difference between the two diameters was exactly 1/2 thousandth of an inch.
That is unheard of out of the box!
I didn't adjust it. 

Rick


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## steamer (May 17, 2012)

From this email:
Hello, 
I was going to purchase your products but have decided to wait until your deaf ears are fixed ! 

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=17438.msg190173;topicseen#msg190173 



That's awesome!  made my whole day....right up there with " Excuse me, I'm having trouble spending money in your establishment"


Dave


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## rake60 (Jun 20, 2012)

Enco did make good on their promise to send someone in to repair this lathe.

Today Mr. Kitchen from _*Machine Rebuilders*_ company about 70 miles away,
showed up to take care of the problems.

Now I am happy with the lathe and Enco's efforts to make it right for us.
I was even happier to meet Mr. Kitchen from Machine Rebuilders.
We will be talking with him again about our tired old Bridgeport mill and Reed surface grinder.

Rick


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