# Show your neat stuff



## mgbrv8

I am a mechanical engineer and a prototype fabricator by trade. I have my own one man shop and lots of unique tools. I have always found that the tools of yesteryear are unique and very useful. And unfortunately those tools aren't made any more. I am and would like for others to post pictures of those unique tools that we all have so it would benefit all of us.

The first thing I am going to post is my micro telescoping gauges made by the Moore & Wright tool company of Sheffield England all four range from .012-.15". They have been invaluable over the years and have paid for themselves ten times over.






http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=32754867&l=ac183d1768&id=1439230280

Dave


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## Lakc

That is neat, would love to see a cutaway drawing of them. :


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## Herbiev

Hi Dave. Cant see pictures. Keep getting directed to another site :'(


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## mgbrv8

Herbiev  said:
			
		

> Hi Dave. Cant see pictures. Keep getting directed to another site :'(



How is that? ;D

Now don't be afraid to share what you have gentlemen 

Dave


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## Herbiev

Fixed now. Probably something i did. Small Iphone and fat fingers ???


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## moanaman

Hi Herbie,
 If you are down my way some time I can show you the the real thing. Hardly ever use them these days but when the case arrises they are invaluable. 

Barry G


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## gbritnell

Probably the most unique tool I have is this angle gauge that came with some other tooling when I bought my 11" Logan lathe. It was in a box with some drills, endmills and miscellaneous 'stuff'. I cleaned it up and checked it out. It's extremely accurate what with the vernier scale on it but I have no idea what I would ever use it for.
gbritnell


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## mgbrv8

Wow gbritnell that is really neat. Very nice build quality. And it looks like you did a really nice job fixing it up.

Dave


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## gbritnell

It's hard to tell from the distortion of the camera lens but the beam that the vernier level rides on has a curve to it. That way you can divide up the degrees into minutes. 
gbritnell


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## steamer

That would come in handy for Millwright work I think George.  Set ups on machines too.

Dave


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## mgbrv8

I know bore mics aren't that interesting but this little guy always gets me out of a bind. It will go into places and get dimensions were no other consistent measuring tool can go. It was made by Brown & Sharp circa 1930s. That's all I know about it besides it constantly being so handy, I wouldn't trade this little guy for the world. I really appreciate the reposes so far, I want this to be a reference for those that are new to machining. Knowing about these tools can open new doors both in mindset and in projects for all of us. 

Dave


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## kvom

Gadget for cleaning clogged sewer pipes, courtesy of UPS mixing up broken package contents.


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## MachineTom

Over the years I have been buying these wonderful bore gages. Read in .00025" increments, each gage has a narrow range, this one is .125, larger sizes read .250 range, bigger sizes have jaw sets that swap out to double range to .500.

This is the 1/2" size






If any of our European friends have parts for these fine tools drop me a note, please.


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## mgbrv8

MachineTom  said:
			
		

> Over the years I have been buying these wonderful bore gages. Read in .00025" increments, each gage has a narrow range, this one is .125, larger sizes read .250 range, bigger sizes have jaw sets that swap out to double range to .500.
> 
> This is the 1/2" size
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If any of our European friends have parts for these fine tools drop me a note, please.





I love those they are really handy.

Dave


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## mgbrv8

kvom  said:
			
		

> Gadget for cleaning clogged sewer pipes, courtesy of UPS mixing up broken package contents.



Kvom I have to know how did UPS cause this?

Dave


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## kvom

I had ordered a bumper latch, but when the package came it had this gadget in it. Seems several packages broke open and the driver tried to figure out which item went in which package, and then taped them up. Shipper got a refund and I kept this thing; later on figured out what it is.


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## rkepler

Here's a handy little tool that I haven't seen too often - a Starrett 118 spacing punch. I use this to set out rivets on areas that I can't use a jig or other mask to mark them, just scribe a line from the edge and follow it with the punch, placing the spring loaded foot into the previous punch mark.

(I can't see the attachment in edit, here's the same image on my web server: http://www.kepler-eng.com/images/starrett_118_punch.jpg )


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## mgbrv8

Now that is a handy piece.

Dave


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## mgbrv8

These are starrett taper gauges. They are accurate within 0.001". Great for tight places or comparing parts etc.

Dave


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## mgbrv8

This is a interesting hole gauge I also use it for groves on occasion I have a set of three that go from .015"-.75". I got the first one in a box of things in a auction and I wondered "when will I ever use this thing". Well to my surprise it was handy so i kept my eye out for more. 

Dave


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## rkepler

I've reached in the back of the tool cabinet for some of the tooling I don't use much (honestly, "at all" would be closer) but keep around because they make "that one job" easier.

Here's one of those tools - a direct reading vernier dovetail caliper, a Starrett 438. 







It will read inside and outside dovetails of 45, 50, 55 and 60 degrees directly. I haven't seen many of these. I think I've used it a dozen times and really gage pins or dowels and an adjustable parallel are usually more convenient, but there's some cool factor in this tool.


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## mgbrv8

Wow! , That piece would really get you out of a bind. I image your friends remember you have that one in your cabinet.

Dave


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## rkepler

mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> Wow! , That piece would really get you out of a bind. I image your friends remember you have that one in your cabinet.



I don't think anyone's ever wanted to borrow it, likely no one knows (until now) that I have it. A professional machinist friend just shakes his head at the stuff I've gathered over the years, he's probably close to the "if you don't use it in a year toss it out" philosophy but at the 5 year point (personally, I'm at the "keep it if it's cool" point). Other than that there are a couple of locals who machine that I would call friends, neither would ever have call for this.

I oiled & cleaned it and it'll go back in the cabinet on top of the other one (missing the pin for the left side, gotta make that sometime).

There are some more oddities in there, I'll try and get some out again. Probably good for me to find them again, sort of an industrial archeological dig:


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## BillTodd

> Here's one of those tools - a direct reading vernier dovetail caliper, a Starrett 438



Ooooh I like that a lot 

Bill


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## steamer

Starrett Vernier Gear calipers....small?











Dave


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## Dan Rowe

Dave,
That is a gear tooth vernier. It is used to measure the width of a gear tooth at the pitch line. The blade is set for the pitch depth and then the tooth thickness is measured.

I have seen a few on ebay but not in my price range.

Dan
Edit



			
				steamer  said:
			
		

> Starrett Vernier Gear calipers....small?



I was so excited that I knew what it was I forgot to read the words. ;D
Dan


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## steamer

It's the only set I actually have held.  The question mark was more a question...ar these "normal" size or are they normally this small?

Dave


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## rkepler

steamer  said:
			
		

> It's the only set I actually have held. The question mark was more a question...ar these "normal" size or are they normally this small?



There are 2 sizes to them, the 456A and 456B - the A model will measure from 20-2 DP and the B 10-1 DP. I expect that you have the A, but they're fairly similar in size.

I have some similar ones from C. Stiefelmayer in Germany, likely pre-WWII production and possibly turn-of-the-previous century:


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## rkepler

While I was looking for the C Stiefelmayer gear calipers I ran into these taper micrometers:






The principle is that the mic is on a little sine bar, indicating movement. The other side of the sine bar and a bar on the opposite side than can be adjusted for the taper diameter when closing on the work. Here's a detail of the sine bar:






This is a "Taper Micrometer Corp" mic In practice it's fairly hard to measure with - the work is almost always between centers and measuring it always feels like you're slipping around as the tool tension changes with slight movements up & down the taper. You can reduce the measured diameter using a gage block but that makes it even trickier. I finally found a smaller one and was able to stop dancing around trying to measure small diameters.

All in all if you're doing a standard taper it's a lot easier to simply gage it.


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## mgbrv8

I have wanted one of those for quite a while. That is real nice.

Dave


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## mgbrv8

When I bought a small lot of tools at a auction there were a few Mul-T-Anvil Micrometers in it and one them was missing the anvil parts so I machined and then precision ground a base I then had to machine the barrel of the mic to compensate for the slight increase in material on the base. There is also a machined stud with a large round head that I made that isn't pictured that holds the base on. Its handy little piece when you need a small precision height gauge.

Dave


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## kcmillin

Here is something not so rare, but rarely used. An indicating micrometer. It is incredibly nice to have when making multiple parts to the same dimension, like valves, or pistons.






Kel


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## Lakc

kcmillin  said:
			
		

> Here is something not so rare, but rarely used. An indicating micrometer. It is incredibly nice to have when making multiple parts to the same dimension, like valves, or pistons.
> Kel


Rarely used because in the shop if I am within a thou I usually give up cutting. ;D


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## kustomkb

I made a few of these at the request of a friend, who did the inlay. It's an adjustable square meant for transfering layout lines around corners;






This is a Starrett No 86 hand vise I inherited from my wife's grandfather;









This one is quite old but as it turns out they still make them;

http://www.mytoolstore.com/starrett/86.html


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## kcmillin

That hand Vice is pretty Neat, and very handy, but at 200 bones no thanks. 

Here is one I made a couple years ago. I utilizes three forms of mechanical advantage. First twisting the handle in with a screw, forces the levers up the wedge as it rotates, then the pivot point is off center to give more torque. It can hold the smallest screw for grinding without slippage.











And of course, a walnut handle.





Kel


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## mgbrv8

These are right angle indicator attachments. There are different style of replaceable ends to get a measurement out of tight spots.

Dave


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## krv3000

HI I have sum of those don't no if I have posted this before but fix a old drill chuck to a file Handel its brill for all sorts of things I yous ed chemical metal to bond the chuck in to the file Handel


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## Mosey

I posted this in the wrong place, and I apologize for that. Anyway, here are some neat little small (or medium) size hole gages. I would like to know who made them, or were they some talented guys' project. I like them a lot, and enjoy using them.
As you can see, I don't know how to get the pictures to show along with the file name. Help!?





http://s1126.photobucket.com/albums/l603/Tiepinkraider/


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## mgbrv8

The are expanding transfer punches. Now these are handy. They are made by the Kelly tool Co. I pick them up at the pate swap meet in TX years ago. 

David


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## Mosey

David,
My gages are different from the ones you show, in that they have no punch at the end. They are mostly flush, and seem to be only for measuring the circular hole in the work.Maybe my pictures could better show that.


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## steamer

mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> The are expanding transfer punches. Now these are handy. They are made by the Kelly tool Co. I pick them up at the pate swap meet in TX years ago.
> 
> David




David,
Whats the chance of getting a photo of one of those taken apart?

 ;D

Dave


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## mgbrv8

Dave ask politely and ye shale receive. Here you go Sir.

The punch has a piece of spring steel bent into a C shape to retain it in the bore.

David


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## Ned Ludd

Thinks! I wonder how many of those will be made in the next few weeks?
Ned


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## Mosey

mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> Dave ask politely and ye shale receive. Here you go Sir.
> 
> The punch has a piece of spring steel bent into a C shape to retain it in the bore.
> 
> David



David, Here is a better picture. Still a mystery for me.
http://s908.photobucket.com/albums/ac290/sussna/?action=view&current=anothergage.jpg


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## gbravo

This is another interesting toll, automatic locking pliers made by Craftman.


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## peatoluser

Kel, I really like that little handy vice you made.
Something I definitely want to make.
Probably make one from whats lying around the shop, so no need for detailed drawings but any points worth mentioning on it's construction will be gratefully received!
yours
Peter


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## mklotz

For those who don't want to take the time to make one...

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Handy-Hand-Held-Vise/T10013


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## kcmillin

Peter, I don't really have any pointers to give, I just drew it up on paper and proceeded to make it. Tricky part is to get the jaws to close parallel to each other, so pay close attention to that with your drawings.

I would go with Marv's suggestion, that is, after all, the exact picture I used to design my own. I was thinking about making a set of drawings but I am not sure what the copyright and patents do. So I am not sure if it is even legal for me to sell one of these, or draw up plans.

Kel


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## mgbrv8

This is another type of self aligning transfer punch that I am sure you have all seen and probably some own . The center core has a punch through it. It them has a spring loaded barrel that slides down the core to "tram" the punch in the bore that tapered core had aligned. 

David


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## mgbrv8

I have been requested by a few of you to show my precision drill press made by the Cameron tool company. I bought it at the cabin fever auction a few years ago from the John Gascoyne estate it was already heavly modified by Mr Gascoyne and I have made a number of modifications and refinements of my own. It has a Albrecht chuck from the factory. Its a really wonderful machine and works like a dream.

Dave


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## Herbiev

Ooh. I just gotta have those auto lock pliers. Not sure how they work tho. When u release grip do they stay locked? If so how do u " unlock" them. 

TIA
HERBIE ???


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## steamer

mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> Dave ask politely and ye shale receive. Here you go Sir.
> 
> The punch has a piece of spring steel bent into a C shape to retain it in the bore.
> 
> David



Thanks Bud!

Dave


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## mgbrv8

Here is a neat hand knurling tool. It could be easily made from a old c-clamp or modify a old pipe cutter or bullet, but they pop up on eBay quite often. Its a handy thing to have when you cant get the part to a lathe, you have a pulley loose, need a tighter press fit, or need better grip on something. I thought I would share. Also Knurlcraft still makes them but are very proud of them.

David


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## peatoluser

Kel
Thanks for the tip about keeping the jaws parallel. That's just the sort of pointer I was after.
left to my own devices, I wouldn't have thought of that.
once again thanks
peter


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## dgjessing

Dunno if this is particularly unusual or not, but it's the only one I've ever seen:






It's just a 12" steel square, right? But look at the divisions on the outside scales; the quarters are divided into thirds, or 12ths of an inch. On the other side it's the expected 8ths. It is marked "AETNA 141, MADE IN USA". I've had it forever, don't recall where I got it.

Anybody got any idea what it's for?


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## mklotz

As if sixteenths of an inch weren't bad enough, now we've got twelfths of an inch. What's next, elevenths, thirteenths, etc.? 

Quick, what's 

5/12 + 9/16

no calculators allowed.


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## steamer

47/48  wait a minute while I divide the ruler into 48ths


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## t_ottoboni

dgjessing  said:
			
		

> Anybody got any idea what it's for?



Measuring dozens of thousands, maybe? The imperial system makes my head dizzy! scratch.gif


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## rkepler

dgjessing  said:
			
		

> It's just a 12" steel square, right? But look at the divisions on the outside scales; the quarters are divided into thirds, or 12ths of an inch. On the other side it's the expected 8ths. It is marked "AETNA 141, MADE IN USA". I've had it forever, don't recall where I got it.



It might have been for a printer's layout - 12pt was a common character pitch. I used to have rulers that laid things out like that (betch I've got them somewhere - I've misplaced something like that but never tossed it out).


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## HS93

mklotz  said:
			
		

> For those who don't want to take the time to make one...
> 
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/Handy-Hand-Held-Vise/T10013



I tried to buy one but they wont accept payment on paypal from out of the US

Peter


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## Blogwitch

Peter,

I bought mine from Chronos

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/New-Handy-Vice-with-Serrated-haws.html


John


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## Maryak

dgjessing  said:
			
		

> Dunno if this is particularly unusual or not, but it's the only one I've ever seen:
> 
> It's just a 12" steel square, right? But look at the divisions on the outside scales; the quarters are divided into thirds, or 12ths of an inch. On the other side it's the expected 8ths. It is marked "AETNA 141, MADE IN USA". I've had it forever, don't recall where I got it.
> 
> Anybody got any idea what it's for?



Old English scales 1" : 1ft, 3/4" : 1 ft, 3/8" : 1ft.

Hope this helps

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer

you know, lots of roofers work to pitch measured in run/12

8/12 pitch....that may be a framers square...it's easy to set pitch on the end of a roofing joist by measuring 8 on one leg and 12 on the other.

Dave


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## Lakc

HS93  said:
			
		

> I tried to buy one but they wont accept payment on paypal from out of the US
> 
> Peter


There are several Russian versions like that on ebay for around the same price.


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## rkepler

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> I bought mine from Chronos
> 
> http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/New-Handy-Vice-with-Serrated-haws.html



(Unrelated to the tool but) why are they calling the jaws "haws"? I thought it might be a typo but it's repeated all through the product description, url, etc. A really, really consistent typo or a difference in language?


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## dgjessing

steamer  said:
			
		

> you know, lots of roofers work to pitch measured in run/12
> 
> 8/12 pitch....that may be a framers square...it's easy to set pitch on the end of a roofing joist by measuring 8 on one leg and 12 on the other.
> 
> Dave



Hey - that's gotta be it! (Makes perfect sense anyway )


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## Tin Falcon

I have a book entitled the steel square AKA framing square it mentions the 12th scale
Tin


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## mklotz

Found it!

This reference...

http://www.residentialubc1233.com/tools/framing_square-carpenter_square.php

says:

The twelfth scale is commonly used for right triangle solutions without computation. The chief purpose of the twelfth scale is to provide shortcuts in problem solving with the framing square. Since the inch is divided into 12 parts, it allows the carpenter to reduce a problem to 1/12 size by allowing the graduations on tie scale to represent 1", i. e., 7 5/12" may be taken to represent 7 feet, 5 inches.


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## steamer

YUP...good for laying out stair frames too!

I also use a product called a "speed square"....it's the little triangular ones with a lip on one edge.

Very useful if you know how to drive it....

Dave


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## Tin Falcon

The carpenters steel square was apparently good for a lot more than square marks and cuts. I know they are good for angles on rafters and laying out stairs. But is seem they were also a tradesman reference and estimating tool. 


http://ia700208.us.archive.org/2/items/carpenterssteels00hodg/carpenterssteels00hodg.pdf
Tin


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## mgbrv8

Now if you guys ever see a chance to buy a set of these for a fair price, buy them. They are called kopal clamps they are absolutely fantastic. They are wonderful for holding anything down I love them. As a side project I have been working on some miniature version of them also. 

this site has some good details on how they work 
http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/MonoBloc.html

David


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## checkedout

...


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## GailInNM

Diatest bore measuring indicator. This set measures bores from 0.057 to 0.830 with direct reading of 0.0001 inch. Great for measuring bellmouth and barrel distortions when lapping cylinders and for getting upper cylinder taper correct for pinch off of piston on small compression ignition engines. And it really simplifies fitting pistons to bores as I am never too sure about my technique using split ball and telescoping gauges and measuring with a micrometer. 

They want insane amounts of money for a set like this, but by buying several incomplete sets over a 7 or 8 year period at salvage prices I managed to get this complete set put together. 

Gail in NM


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## steamer

Cool Gail.......but now I have something else to collect!.... ;D

Dave


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## mgbrv8

Gail that is a really neat item.

David


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## checkedout

Gail! That is a very neat set of tools.

I have no idea how to use it, but I find I want one anyway. 

Thanks for sharing!


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## kcmillin

That is a really nice set Gail. I love measuring tools, and collect them as much as I can.

Here are a couple e-bay finds I really enjoy. Not really unusual but can be hard to find.

This first one is a Biddle mechanical tachometer dated to the early 60's There are quite a few of these, but this one is a little different. It is switchable in five different zones from 30 RPM all the way up 100,000 RPM. It has very little friction, even my twin flame eater can turn it. My other mechanical tachs have a too much resistance for it.






It came with a vial of some of the stinkiest oil I have ever had the pleasure to smell. What would this oil be? What would be a good subsitute?

Here is an item that is great if you don't value your hair.






Ya, this don't get used a hole lot.

Kel


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## mgbrv8

Now that Starrett Dial master is what I call accurate.

Dave


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## rkepler

Not sure how I forgot this. It's an unusual caliper from Mitutoyo, long out of production. It allows measurement across components offset in angle. Here it looks like a pretty regular caliper:






And here it's setup for some offset measurement:






Some additional point mount to the jaws to make them into precision calipers or compasses, the dingus at the top make it a height gage or acts as a scriber, etc. Kind of neat. Mitutoyo 190-101. I never did find a manual for it, just a single page from the catalog.


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## mgbrv8

Now that is handy

Dave


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## Maryak

I was given this 12" scale recently.







At 1st my reaction was................... th_wtf1

But all is not lost............hint...........I'm pretty sure George Britnell knows what it is. ;D

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer

Pattern makers shrink rule!

Dave


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## mgbrv8

I have never even heard of that, can we elaborate on the Pattern makers shrink rule? ???

Dave


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## Lakc

steamer  said:
			
		

> Pattern makers shrink rule!
> 
> Dave




Yes, but arent they specific for the material? 




			
				mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> I have never even heard of that, can we elaborate on the Pattern makers shrink rule? ???
> 
> Dave



Metal shrinks as it cools, so when casting, you need a larger form or pattern then you want the end result to be.


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## Tin Falcon

IIRC pattern makers rules are set up increments of eighths per foot. 1/8, 1/4, 3/8... then one uses the appropriate one for the metal being cast. 
tin


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## Lakc

I dont want to drift too far into off-topicville, since this isnt a shop tool per se but it is prettry neet stuff. 


This is a General Radio 1650 Impedance bridge. Mid 1960's vintage labratory grade equipment, it is notable here for its mechanical underpinnings.







Its mostly made of precision wire wound resistors. The big drum on the bottom has a swash plate style cam with a roller follower. The follower pivots the contact back and forth along the resistor wire allowing the fine tuning of the resistance value across its entire travel. 













More of a "neet mechanisim" then tool (to most here). ;D


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## 1Kenny

Jeff, very nice radio. I haven't seen a NULL gage for quite a while.

Kenny


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## Mosey

Very neat!!
Me thinks it belongs to the golden age when ships were wood, men were iron, and radios had tubes.
Bring it back.
Hallicrafters and WB Dumont


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## steamer

Maryak  said:
			
		

> I was given this 12" scale recently.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 1st my reaction was................... th_wtf1
> 
> But all is not lost............hint...........I'm pretty sure George Britnell knows what it is. ;D
> 
> Best Regards
> Bob




OK for extra points....This is a shrink rule for which metal?  ;D

Dave


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## rkepler

steamer  said:
			
		

> OK for extra points....This is a shrink rule for which metal? ;D



Looks to me to be 1/8 to the foot (figuring by it being 'off' 1/16 at the 6" mark), which would make it good for cast iron.

All of my shrink rules (Starrett 370 series, Lufkin 83 series)have the same 'shrinkage' on all the ruled areas and don't have a non-shrink rule. Who made that one?


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## steamer

ding ding ding ding ding ding rkepler gets the prize....who did make it?

Dave


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## rkepler

steamer  said:
			
		

> ding ding ding ding ding ding rkepler gets the prize....who did make it?



I'd guess Union, but it's not much more than a guess. It's not Starrett or Lufkin, the numbers are bold like Union did and the only lettering I can see ends "on".


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## Maryak

Congratulations to Dave and RKepler.,

1st prize is a week at my workshop and 2nd prize is 2weeks. ;D

Actually it's for several metals, I don't know the manufacturer but will sort it all out next Friday and post some pics of the markings.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Maryak

Hi Guys,

As promised the Pattern-maker's scale information:

There are 4 scales...........Standard, Iron, Steel and Brass.












The manufacturer is






Best Regards
Bob


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## mgbrv8

I have never seen those type of scales before. That is very interesting. 

David


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## don-tucker

This saw blade called an Abra file is a godsend to me and I would love to buy some more,but havent located any in the UK yet.it will cut in any direction but snaps very easily if you don't keep your mind on what you are doing.
Don


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## rkepler

I don't think I saw a patternmaker's rule that had different shrinks, sounds to me to be a good chance for error in picking it up and using the wrong scale. Nice find.

I was reminded elsewhere that I had this out in the shop:






Not something you see every day. It's a tool for characterizing the wear on a machine tool. It's bigger than you think - the cylinder in the back of the box is 8" long. I originally bought it for some work on a lathe but used other techniques, I do plan on using it when I rescrape my mill (someday).


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## Lakc

Of all the scraping tutorials and other info I have accumulated over the years, that tool is the missing link to how you get both sides of a dovetail or way the same height. Thanks!


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## dsquire

don-tucker  said:
			
		

> This saw blade called an Abra file is a godsend to me and I would love to buy some more,but havent located any in the UK yet.it will cut in any direction but snaps very easily if you don't keep your mind on what you are doing.
> Don



Don

I would love to see a picture of the Abra file if you have one. Thanks.

Cheers 

Don


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## rkepler

Lakc  said:
			
		

> Of all the scraping tutorials and other info I have accumulated over the years, that tool is the missing link to how you get both sides of a dovetail or way the same height. Thanks!



Actually, that measurement is not that hard to get - checking for level the long way then level across with 1-2-3 blocks and a long flat with a level on top (fitter's rule is best, it won't sag {much}). Parallel on the verticals is fairly easy with some pieces of linear bearing - on diameter and straight. But you can also do it by scraping in some keys for the dovetails and measuring across them. That's all from memory so don't take it as gospel, for that you'd want to check "Maching Tool Reconditioning".

What this guy does is help you jig up to get the initial measurements of just where the error is - a lot of the stuff in MTR that's rigged for the job is done here by setting the clamps, getting the levels set and walking the tool along the work. If you're used to the "old way" you may well find that easier.


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## Lakc

MTR has been on the wish list for a long time, its a bit pricy, but I realize its the missing link. I dont really know _any_ way, but seeing that tool has brought my thought processes in the correct direction. Thanks again!


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## Blogwitch

Don T,

A couple of years ago I was looking to get some Abrafiles for use on my die filer, and after a lot of research, it came out that the chap that made Abrafiles was a bit of a one man band, and he just stopped producing them after making them for many years.

The nearest thing to an Abrafile you can get now are the tungsten coated round saw blades that are used for cutting ceramic tiles into odd shapes. I bought a couple of those blades and although they are a little larger in diameter than the Abrafile, they do almost the same thing, but not quite as nicely.

John


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## don-tucker

I must be going senile,that's twice i have forgot the picture,sorry





They cut in all directions and are brilliant
Don


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## don-tucker

Does anyone know if they are still obtainable,please
don


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## metalmad

This not machining related, but I recon its neat :big:
My Daughter turned 8 this month and this vid is of her practicing her piano

http://youtu.be/6e-_DiFvr7U
check it out
thats my girl :big:


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## lazylathe

metalmad  said:
			
		

> This not machining related, but I recon its neat :big:
> My Daughter turned 8 this month and this vid is of her practicing her piano
> 
> http://youtu.be/6e-_DiFvr7U
> check it out
> thats my girl :big:



NOW THAT IS NEAT!!!!!!!

Andrew


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## Herbiev

Cute and talented. One karma point FOR KIMMI :bow:


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## Blogwitch

Don T,

I answered your question in the post above your picture of those great Abrafiles.


John


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## Bluechip

Bogstandard  said:
			
		

> Don T,
> 
> A couple of years ago I was looking to get some Abrafiles for use on my die filer, and after a lot of research, it came out that the chap that made Abrafiles was a bit of a one man band, and he just stopped producing them after making them for many years.
> 
> The nearest thing to an Abrafile you can get now are the tungsten coated round saw blades that are used for cutting ceramic tiles into odd shapes. I bought a couple of those blades and although they are a little larger in diameter than the Abrafile, they do almost the same thing, but not quite as nicely.
> 
> John



I have some of these, IIRC from B&Q, but not on their site now it seems ..

http://www.vitrex.co.uk/products.php?cat=3

Probably same as Bogs', ... not wildly impressed by them anyway.
OK if you've no alternative.
BTW you can get flexible ones with a handle on each end. Plumbers use them to cut pipes in awkward places.

EDIT Found some ..

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-tungsten-carbide-rod-blade--300mm-prod819599/



BC


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## Mosey

Here's one from the past. And it works when the power is out. To think that when I was 16, I could work this thing, all of it's functions.


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## Maryak

Yes,

They were a wonderous tool in their day.

I remember stepping from log tables to slide rule in 1966 when required to complete my HSC for university entrance. They saved me around 1 hour per 3 hour exam compared to using log tables. The only thing they could not do accurately enough, ( in my range of work), was gear calculations, for which, at that time, we used 5 figure log tables. Mine also had quite a range of formulas on the back which saved trying to memorise them. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jeremy_BP

Mosey  said:
			
		

> Here's one from the past. And it works when the power is out. To think that when I was 16, I could work this thing, all of it's functions.



I've got a few of those. I can use them on so-called "no-calculator" tests in math class. :big:


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## mklotz

I used mine all through my undergraduate college years. I would have killed for a scientific calculator - particularly in thermodynamics and physical chemistry where orders of magnitude could be all over the map.


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## Mosey

OK, who knows what this handy but obscure device is?


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## lazylathe

It's a calculator for feet, inches and 1/8ths i think.
Saw one many years ago in my friends tool collection.
It's old school to the max!!!

Andrew



			
				Mosey  said:
			
		

> OK, who knows what this handy but obscure device is?


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## Mosey

Give the man the prize!
It is an Alexander-Addimax "Addiator Junior", made in West Germany in the late 50's, and very hard to come by. It adds and subtracts feet, inches, and fractions down to 1/8's manually. Is in the calculator museum of early manual calculators, and yes, I guess I am also old-school to the max, as we used them to check strings of dimensions on drawings. Do they ( the digital millenials) know what fractions are?


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## lazylathe

Mosey  said:
			
		

> Do they ( the digital millenials) know what fractions are?



NOT A CLUE!!!!! ;D


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## mklotz

Mosey  said:
			
		

> Give the man the prize!
> Do they ( the digital millenials) know what fractions are?



Hey, Mosey...

You might want to give my MIX calculator a try. As the name suggests, you can input lengths in any mix of metric and Imperial units including decimal and rational fractions, then perform any of the four basic math operations and see the results in all the units it "understands". It even has a facility to scale all inputs by a user-supplied value which is handy if you're working off a scaled drawing.

What's a digital "millenial"? None of my dictionaries recognize that as a word.


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## mgbrv8

If you like old school here is one for you. Its a 1910 Gem adding machine. To operate the Golden Gem, the stylus is inserted into a link corresponding to the desired number and pulled down. As the continuous chain revolves, it advances a number wheel whose value is seen in the window at top. When a wheel revolves from 9 to 0, a tens carry mechanism automatically advances the next wheel by one. (This works well, but advancing the tens carry on multiple digits at once (e.g. from 999 to 1000) requires some extra hand strength!). Substraction is possible (via the 9s complement method). Clearing of the result register is achieved by turning the knob at bottom right until all digits show zero.

David


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## Mosey

mklotz  said:
			
		

> Hey, Mosey...
> 
> You might want to give my MIX calculator a try. As the name suggests, you can input lengths in any mix of metric and Imperial units including decimal and rational fractions, then perform any of the four basic math operations and see the results in all the units it "understands". It even has a facility to scale all inputs by a user-supplied value which is handy if you're working off a scaled drawing.
> 
> What's a digital "millenial"? None of my dictionaries recognize that as a word.


means born after 2000 ( in this current millenium)( or anybody under 30) !


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## Mosey

mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> If you like old school here is one for you. Its a 1910 Gem adding machine. To operate the Golden Gem, the stylus is inserted into a link corresponding to the desired number and pulled down. As the continuous chain revolves, it advances a number wheel whose value is seen in the window at top. When a wheel revolves from 9 to 0, a tens carry mechanism automatically advances the next wheel by one. (This works well, but advancing the tens carry on multiple digits at once (e.g. from 999 to 1000) requires some extra hand strength!). Substraction is possible (via the 9s complement method). Clearing of the result register is achieved by turning the knob at bottom right until all digits show zero.
> 
> David


Well, that is basically how the Addimax works, you put the stylus into the hole in the slide and slide it to the end of travel. When you reach a number that goes over 9, like 9/8ths, or 13 inches, you carry it forward by sliding the slide around the corner!! The inches column goes to 12, so when you have an answer larger than 12 inches, you go around the corner to the feet column and slide up the remaining inches as another foot. Sound confusing?? just like using it. Can't talk on your cellphone and do it, or you get lost.


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## Mosey

Ok, here's another obscurity. It is missing a 6" or 12" long rod that goes between those tiny pointed setscrews.
What is it? It has very elaborate modern counterparts, both mechanical and digital, but I bet you can find your answer just as accurately with this simple antique.


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## rkepler

Mosey  said:
			
		

> What is it? It has very elaborate modern counterparts, both mechanical and digital, but I bet you can find your answer just as accurately with this simple antique.



Looks like a center tester for a lathe. Pointy rod goes in, short (and pointy) end into a center punched hole in the work, longer end toward tailstock. When the punch mark was on center the far end didn't wobble about (much).


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## Mosey

Good. Have or anyone you know ever used one of these?


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## mklotz

I've made several of somewhat different design. A pump center and a DI is easier to use and a bit more accurate.


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## Richard1

I had one (may still have it somewhere) where the pointer was soldered through the middle of a tin lid instead of the gimble arrangement that is shown in the photos. It worked quite well.


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## mgbrv8

Sense we are doing the "what is this" thing, I have one. I have a dead center that has a positive and negative 12 degrees rotation capability. The end doesn't move in or out or off axis all it dose is rotate. I have always thought it was for multi pitch threads but I am not sure. It was made by the ENCO Mfg company of Chicago,its a model-#6-jarno, micro-set-center. I contacted Enco once and they rudely said we cant help you. Any ideas

David


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## rkepler

Mosey  said:
			
		

> Good. Have or anyone you know ever used one of these?



I have a Starrett #65 that's I've used once in a while, but I seldom punch centers anymore as I prefer to use the DRO on the mill. If I need a center on the lathe I just put a hole there and then indicate it in on the lathe.


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## rkepler

mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> Sense we are doing the "what is this" thing, I have one. I have a dead center that has a positive and negative 9 degrees rotation capability. The end doesn't move in or out or off axis all it dose is rotate. I have always thought it was for multi pitch threads but I am not sure. It was made by the ENCO Mfg company of Chicago,its a model-#6-jarno, micro-set-center. I contacted Enco once and they rudely said we cant help you. Any ideas



It allows you to move the center relative to the taper. It can be used to get work on axis or maybe a little off for a slight taper (like a taper arbor). I think the numbers are in thousandths toward or away from the operator (if the UP is on top).

Throw it on with an indicator on some stock and see if it does what I think.


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## mgbrv8

No when you rotate the barrel it doesn't go off axis, I have tried using a indicator on it and no matter how its set the tip stays centered on one axis and dosnt not move in or out.

David


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## rkepler

mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> No when you rotate the barrel it doesn't go off axis, I have tried using a indicator on it and no matter how its set the tip stays centered on one axis and dosnt not move in or out.



Have a look at patents 2847890 and 3057238. I think the first is what you have (and assigned to Enco), the second is one Enco did making it a live center. When you checked it did you have the letters "UP" on the top of the spindle and the indicator on the side of the center tip (or, better yet, on the work)?


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## mgbrv8

It has patent numbers 2841042-2847890 on it.

Dave


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## Diy89

I've been meaning to snap a picture of my "neatest" treasure and here it is. It was my Uncles, a wooden bit index made by Morse Drill & Machine Company. The bits my Uncle (a tool and die maker of yesteryear) are still sharp and cut fine!


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## mgbrv8

Now that is a neat piece thanks for sharing.

Dave


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## Sshire

Here's a Triple Play of neat stuff. My brother just retired (pediatric dentist) and I scored these three things.

A metric thickness gauge for measuring the wall thickness of gold crowns.










Next up is a spot welder/soldering machine for repairing braces.











And finally, The Big Score, an articulated, ceiling mounted, light, which now hangs in my shop!











Best
Stan


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## mgbrv8

I really like that spot welder and the light.

Dave


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## Lakc

Ooh, where is the jealous smiley? ???
I have a half finished spotwelder project, time to get back on it.


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## Sshire

The spot welder will be very handy when the broken (insert earring, bracelet, necklace) arrives in the shop with, "all these machines and you can't fix this." :-\
Stan


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## t_ottoboni

Sshire  said:
			
		

> Here's a Triple Play of neat stuff. My brother just retired (pediatric dentist) and I scored these three things.
> 
> And finally, The Big Score, an articulated, ceiling mounted, light, which now hangs in my shop!



Now THAT'S a neat stuff! Karma point for this!


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## Diy89

I've always wanted one of those lights! :'(


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## steamer

I take it you will be cutting a lot of GEARS....?

 ;D


Yea I do crack myself up sometimes....... :


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## kd4gij

mgbrv8  said:
			
		

> I have been requested by a few of you to show my precision drill press made by the Cameron tool company. I bought it at the cabin fever auction a few years ago from the John Gascoyne estate it was already heavly modified by Mr Gascoyne and I have made a number of modifications and refinements of my own. It has a Albrecht chuck from the factory. Its a really wonderful machine and works like a dream.
> 
> Dave




 I have a Cameron drill press 164. I need to get the motor fixed. I got it out of the trash at work about 15 years ago the brushes where shot. I put in new ones and it ran for a few years. Now it throws a lot of sparks and no power.Took the motor to a couple of motor shops put thy won't touch something that small.


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## kd4gij

Dave
 I have a similar spot welder that was used for gold soldering Eye Glasses.


----------



## kustomkb

That Dental light is sweet!



> I take it you will be cutting a lot of GEARS....?



Okay, I'll bite. Dentist's cutting gears? gears are slang for teeth? ???

Edit: Because gears have teeth! man am I slow... 


Somebody at work just gave me these;
*
Laser Guided Scissors!!* 







Now I have no more excuses for cutting out nonparallel shims and crooked gaskets. :big:

They even have calibration screws so you can dial-in a perfect, laser-aligned, cut.

They remind me of Lee Valley's annual April Fool's Day tools.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/Search.aspx?action=n  -search for "afd"


----------



## Swede

When my Dad (a serious pack rat) passed away a few years ago, among his tools I found a number of antique measuring and layout tools, as well as a few journeyman projects. This example is my favorite.

The tool is some form of early caliper. Stamped on the rear is a name and patent date, "A. E. Whitmore", 1869... see the last photo. A google search reveals a Remington firearms designer as being the likely creator.

Photo 1 - the caliper is of high quality and has some of the finest convex instrument knurling that I have ever seen. The jaw to the right is moveable, while the jaw to the left has a very short range of 0.025", actuated via the knurled adjustment on the left. To use the caliper, the right jaw is positioned first, and the left jaw then does the final, finer movement. The jaws themselves are hemispheres for internal (bores) and external measurement. The jaws are stepped, with the major OD being 0.400", and at the tip, 0.200"






On the spine of the body are a series of precision notches. When the right jaw is positioned and then tightened, that jaw is locked in place via these notches, spaced every 0.025". Note the micrometer barrel on the left jaw.






The name and patent date.







I was excited to find that "A. E. Whitmore" was an early gunsmith. 1869 was in the heart of the era when firearms were beginning to be mass-produced with interchangeable parts, rather than hand-fitted. Like many old measuring tools, this caliper has a fit and finish, and overall feel, that is very pleasing.

Along with these calipers, the journeymen's projects are really interesting. What I was told was that to "graduate" from school, the student had to execute some sort of tooling that exhibits high accuracy, fit, and finish. Common projects were precision insert vises, die holders, scribes and trammels, stuff like that, and usually stamped with the maker's name. I'll try to take some pictures of these.


----------



## mgbrv8

I love the detail on the those old measuring tools. They are very jewelery like. 

Thank you for sharing 

David


----------



## steamer

KustomKB  said:
			
		

> That Dental light is sweet!
> 
> Okay, I'll bite. Dentist's cutting gears? gears are slang for teeth? ???
> 
> Edit: Because gears have teeth! man am I slow...
> 
> 
> Somebody at work just gave me these;
> *
> Laser Guided Scissors!!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have no more excuses for cutting out nonparallel shims and crooked gaskets. :big:
> 
> They even have calibration screws so you can dial-in a perfect, laser-aligned, cut.
> 
> They remind me of Lee Valley's annual April Fool's Day tools.
> 
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/Search.aspx?action=n  -search for "afd"



Yup...




I know .....to easy....


Dave


----------

