# An Unusual Steam Engine from Live steam magazine Oct 1977



## va4ngo (Oct 11, 2009)

Work on this engine started some time ago (more than 15 years) and I had only had made the piston as a trial when I had no other projects underway.
After a 15 year rest and being inspired by this forum, I once again commenced work on the project.

All work is now being carried out on the following equipment

Hercus ATM 260 lathe ( ex school lathe) ( No milling attachment)
Waldown Drill press probably post war era with large 4" machine vise
Drive plate for lathe with many 6mm holes for mounting (I dont yet own a faceplate)
Home made vernier height gauge
Home made Tailstick dieholder
Home made centre finder
Vice, hand tools and files

This engine is based on drawings in an old book, "The Steam Engine" by Robert Scott Burn published in London in 1854, and published in live steam magazine in October 1977, by Robert S Hedin.
The engine is unusual in that it has one piston rotating and oscillating in a rectangular cylinder. The engine comprises 4 conrods, several links
and a sliding rod valve inside a housing. Most parts are brass with the baseplate made from 1/4" aluminium. Piston is steel and Special screws are made from Stainless steel.

Here is shown the baseplate simply cut with a hacksaw from a flat Aluminium plate.
The base was then squared in the lathe, mounting holes were marked then holes drilled in the drill press.

In the background is the piston with exhaust openings and also a number of brass spacers.


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 11, 2009)

I'd like to know more about this engine. Any pics?


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## va4ngo (Oct 11, 2009)

Here I am about make three parts from round stock, the valve bracket, flywheel bearing and valve block
The parts were marked out and placed in three jaw. Parting tool was used to set location of all shoulders using a vernier caliper depth stop marking off from the parting tool and end of job
After marking the part is set up in four jaw for squaring off. I did not have any rectangular bar stock hence the reason for making from round stock. In retrospect, I would try to buy rectangular stock as it took more than an hour to square off the round stock.


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## va4ngo (Oct 11, 2009)

Here the part has been squared off in the 4 jaw and ready for making the valve bracket in next step


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## va4ngo (Oct 11, 2009)

Here the valve bracket is marked out and roughed out using a hacksaw set up in the vice.
After filing to size, the valve bracket is complete.

All my marking out is done with a home made vernier height gauge which I made some 30 years ago. 
At that time, I had access to a milling attachment for the hercus lathe Unfortunately I no longer have a milling attachment. The height gauge has had very little use until now. 
This forum has certainly encouraged and inspired me to commence work on engines again.

The height gauge is made from mild steel and requires only a small modification to the vernier, a very small notch used to hold the marking part of gauge.


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## va4ngo (Oct 11, 2009)

The 2 lever arms were made marked off on the end of a round rod, drilled in drill press and filed to shape and eventually parted to 0.06" thickness in the 3 jaw.

Here you can also see the home made vernier height gauge in use. I have found this to be a very useful item for reasonably accurate measurement and is well worth the effort to build.


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## va4ngo (Oct 11, 2009)

Here is the inlet valve connnection also a simple turning job also from the rectangular (forgot this piece in original so had to square off another piece_ very time consuming)

Zee I dont have any completed pictures as this is a works in progress even though well advanced)
Next the flywheel bearing is cut from the rectangular block, bearing position marked, drilled for the bearing housing and a rod pressed and loctited in to place.
The hole for the bearing will be added later. I dont have a build instruction for this engine.

Then mounted on baseplate. The two mounting holes for the crankshaft bearing were badly misaligned so I relocated the two holes transversely instead of longitudinally as there was ample material in place to do this. I do not like making a part twice so where I can, I will salvage parts and rework as necessary to fully make good a damaged part.


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## va4ngo (Oct 11, 2009)

Next I am making the valve body. Originally started making this on Drive plate and got so carried away that I drilled right through body (after having reamed very accurately for the valve body) but was able to salvage part by inserting a brass rod and parting the excess away. (refer 2nd photo where round rod is protruding from square body)

Next (3rd photo) I milled the slot for steam passages. This was done in drill press by progressively moving the part along a guide in the drill press, clamping down and using a very small end mill to 1.5mm depth. It took about 15 progressive movements of part, reclamping and remilling to complete the slot. The two guides are at rear of valve block. I am uncertain how well this will allow steam to flow along slot as the slot is rough on edges of milled slot. I can clean up with a file on end but suspect this will be very difficult as I will be filing in to a blind hole.

The valve block is now almost completed, just requires mounting and exhaust holes. The valve was a simple turning job in 3 jaw and is shown fitted into valve body with top cover also fitted. I made a cosmetic change to top cover and secured it with 4 screws instead of silver solder.

The last photo shows the valve fitted to the the valve block temporarily. Note the use of small pins used to hold inlet connection in place. These pins are stainless steel welding rod 1.6mm diameter which coincidentally is the correct size for tapping a 2mm hole in valve body. The inlet holes will be opened up after tapping the holes

All the parts to date are of Brass. Baseplate is 1/4" aluminium. Special screws for lever arms and links are being made from stainless steel turned in the lathe and tapped 2mm and are a simple turning and threading job using the home made die holder held in the tailstock of the lathe with gentle hand feel for threading I did not use any coolant or Rocol when threading the 2mm screws.


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## va4ngo (Oct 11, 2009)

This part was required for the end of valve.
Marked out and firstly drilled and tapped a M2 thread then drilled the cross hole and finally filed to shape.

Small parts are hard on the eyes but great to see mounting up

Here you see the name of one of our Australian abrasive suppliers and a comparison with a 5 cent piece (I think you call them a dime? )


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## va4ngo (Oct 12, 2009)

The eccentric strap was made in both the Drive plate and 4 jaw.
First the 1/2" hole was drilled in 4 jaw then the smaller hole (for a change only) in the driveplate. 

Then filing in vice and finish


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## va4ngo (Oct 12, 2009)

Here is the progress on the valve/ eccentric strap sub assembly and another view with the valve block (valve housing) in place.

All items are made of brass except special screws which I made from 3mm Stainless steel rod and threaded M2 . Nuts are purchased and are Nickel plated brass.

I pay very little for all my materials and spend most sunday mornings at a local flea market where I have purchased most of my brass, aluminium and Stainless steel plus workshop engineering tools including vernier, DTI, adjustable height gauge, taps and die sets (I made a vernier height gauge to attach to vernier) 

I think I would like to build a beam engine next off. Any suggestions for a good looking beam.

Would probably prefer to make from bar stock but would consider a n engine from castings if it looked very good and not too costly. I live in Australia.


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## Bill Mc (Oct 12, 2009)

Hi Phil - I am following your posts with much anticipation wondering what the final outcome of this engine will look like. Keep up the good work and the fine photos. It was 28 degrees F. here at Baxter Ontario Canada and you are just entering into summer arghhhh. - Billmc


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## 4wheels (Oct 12, 2009)

Hi again Phil,
I too will be keenly following this build of yours as well as the previous build.
Cheers,


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 12, 2009)

Interesting build Phil. Thanks for the pics. Keep them coming!


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## ozzie46 (Oct 12, 2009)

Great work.

  In the interest of accuracy, a 5 cents Is a "nickle" and 10 cents is a "dime" :hDe: :hDe:  ;D

  Ron


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## va4ngo (Oct 12, 2009)

Picture 1
The Rectangular cylinder frame (there are two verticals) is the next item to be made, This is made from 1/8" x 3/4" x 4 1/4" long brass plate (By the way, I am using converted metric dimensions as I have a Metric Lathe). I cut this from a wider piece using a hacksaw to rough out, squared up in the 4-way toolpost holder (I brought the face of toolpost up to the drive plate to ensure squareness) then squared off the end with an end mill.
To perform this operation, the edges of brass plate were checked for parallelism with the ways by using the dial indicator and moving the saddle along the bed. The brass plate was then adjusted until parallel using dial test indicator.

Picture 2
The 4 connecting rods are also made from 1/8" brass x 3/8" wide x 2/7/8" long. The hole spacings are required to be identical so using the above method and milling to identical length, I proceeded to drill a 1.6mm hole in each end using a jig on the drill press. This simply comprised a guide along which the con rods rested against an end. After drilling one hole, the item was simply slid along the required distance (2.50") and another rest was placed there. All parts were clamped to table. Holes in Rod ends were then drilled to appropriate sizes.

Picture 3
Two of the connecting rods have a small hole and two a larger hole. As the rods were identical length, I made up a stepped locating pin to be a snug fit in holes and then began the long procedure of filing the con rods to shape in the vise.

Picture 4
All rods will be filed together.
Beginning the filing of all 4 connecting rods. The stepped pin can be seen at right end of photo. A pin is fitted to each end


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## va4ngo (Oct 12, 2009)

The following three pictures are out of order

The Cylinder cover plates are also made of 1/8" brass sheet

Marked out 1 part only then drilled with a 1.6mm drill ( I use this size drill because I also have 1.6mm stainless steel welding rod which makes a neat fit pin for locating parts together. The second cover plate was drilled using the first as a template and graduall y fitting the 1.6mm stainless weld rod pins as I drilled each hole ( only used 4 pins)
The part was then squared off in the 4 way tool post and then progressed to finishing filing

The three large holes in cover plate are what will be a 0.265" wide x 2.50" radius slot to accomodate the crankshaft as a loose fit.
The slots in cover plates were separated and finished separately


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## Krown Kustoms (Oct 12, 2009)

looks good so far.
-B-


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## va4ngo (Oct 13, 2009)

The eccentric is a little more interesing so will desribe in more detail.
Material used is Mild steel I dont know what grade I used other than it machines easily.
This is to mate to an already made part, the Eccentric Strap. I always build the part with the hole rather than the part with an outside machined shaft. It is far easier to match a shaft to a hole than a hole to a shaft.

In the 3 jaw chuck without the need to centre drill, I turned a 1 1/4" long shaft to 12.64mm (approx 1/2") diameter for approximately 3mm along the end, but checked before reaching this dimension with the brass eccentric strap hole to ensure a good running fit. The hole in eccentric requires a 0.01mm clearance. First I turned the diameter to appropriate size, checked for fit on the diameter then continued and checked the fit for correct width with 0.01mm clearance end play.
The part was then removed from the 3 jaw for marking out
This is shown in photos


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## va4ngo (Oct 13, 2009)

The unfinished part was transferred to a v block ready to mark out the eccentric.
Here is the method I used as described in the book " The Anmateurs Lathe" I find this method very easy and reasonably accurate.

The part was set up in V blocks and secured by a sliding clamp. The end was measured at 12.64mm with a vernier.

Photo 1
Next set up the vernier height gauge on top of the part to be marked and set the dial indicator to zero.
We now require to find the centre of the bar so come down half the diameter of the part (which was 12.64mm) so the amount to come down is 6.32mm and scribe a line around the end and sides of the shaft.

Photo 2
Next rotate the block 90 degrees and support on a set of parallels as shown to give clearance for the sliding clamp
Again place the vernier height gauge on top of part and set vernier height gauge to zero.

We again need to find the centre so come down the same amount i.e. 6.32mm which is half the diameter of bar. Scribe a line across the end of bar and set vernier height gauge to zero

Photo 3
We can now mark the two eccentric holes which in this case are 3mm above and 2mm below the line.
Marking out is now complete, just centre punch all the holes, the side hole (which I failed to do in this set up so I had to re set the part in v block later. This was easily done as I had some witness marks to go by ( remember the marks around ends and sides)

Photo 4
The part is now transferred to 4 jaw and off set using a centre finder (I have a home made one for this)
I drilled and tapped the holes on the lathe using tap held in tailstock chuck.
The part was then parted and finished. Here is it is seen mated with the eccenttric strap


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## va4ngo (Oct 13, 2009)

Missed this photo so it is out of sequence

Here the v blocks are rotated 90 degrees and parallels placed under the v-block to clear the sliding clamp ( I used a pair of lathe tool bits as parallels)


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## Bill Mc (Oct 13, 2009)

Hi Phil - It's so nice to see older metal working tools turning out such fine work. - Billmc


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## va4ngo (Oct 13, 2009)

Thanks Bill, Though I dont enjoy filing, it is good to see end result. The old lathe and drill press are surprisingly accurate when you get to know them. I find the biggest aid to producing better work is to always have a sharp tool with correct clearances, a feat which is sometimes difficult when you need glasses.

Cheers
Phil


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## va4ngo (Oct 15, 2009)

Today I purchased some 1/4" silver steel for using on future projects and for making a 1/4" reamer. For reference a 1 metre length of water hardenable silver steel cost $15.00.

First I made the reamer my methods I read about in "The Amateurs lathe" 

Method

Cut a length of 1/4 " drill rod to 75mm length and square both ends
put a small chamfer on one end say 1mm max
Then file the rod, in my case for approximately 12mm diagonally along its length. I had a very thin part to ream (3mm) . the amount of diagonal cut can be varied I found this worked very well. The book asks for this to be hardened, however it worked fin as is without hardening. I then proceeded to clean up the flat diagonal edge on the oilstone until "sharp" i.e flat.

The reamer is then used just like other hand reamers, Rotate in one direction only for inserting exiting and a perfectly reamed hole emerged. 
The photos show the connecting rods clamped to the 1-2-3 block ready for reaming

I carried out the reaming in the drill press rotating the chuck by hand by moving the belt in one direction until right through and then raising the Chuck whilst still turning the belt in the same direction (you need three hands for this)

The drill rod is shown with a neat sliding fit in the con rod

I recommend this as an easy method of reaming an accurate hole as the rod could be turned to any size and then made in to a diagonally cut reamer


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## Deanofid (Oct 15, 2009)

These kind of reamers work quite well, even in steel if you harden and temper them. Your project is coming along nicely! 
After seeing a number of the parts you've made, I realize I have plans for this one. Interesting design, for sure.

$15 for a 1/4" length of drill rod/silver steel sounds like a lot! ($2 for a 3 ft length of W-1 here. You fellers need an Enco!)

Keep 'er up!

Dean


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## 1Kenny (Oct 15, 2009)

Very nice, Phil. I am enjoying watching you build this.

Kenny


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## va4ngo (Oct 15, 2009)

Thanks Kenny and Dean,

I wasn't sure what I should be paying for silver steel, I had only seen it advertised on some US website for US$3.50 for a 1 foot length so I figured we would need to be paying twice as much. I paid AU dollars.

I would like to be able to easily identify Silver steel from Bright Mild steel
Any ideas any one

Phil


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## Deanofid (Oct 15, 2009)

Well, silver steel usually holds it's dimension very true over the length of it. Mill steel will often vary a few thou from end to end.
You can heat a short end of one of each piece to bright orange and quench them. The silver steel won't take a mark from a file. The mild steel you will still be able to file it as normal.

There are spark tests for these too, but I don't interpret those well.

If you buy W1 or O1 from a metal supplier here, it almost always comes in 3 ft lengths.

Dean


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## va4ngo (Oct 15, 2009)

Thanks Dean

I like both ideas especially the spark idea as it means you can get an immediate result just by touching a grinder

Cheers
Phil


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## georgeseal (Oct 15, 2009)

Phil,

I only buy one grade of tool steel ( for me it is O-1 ) so if its tool steel I know what it is

When any metal that is purchased comes into the shop it is marked with MY identification ( different places use different colors for the same thing. It don't take long before this gets mixed up and you don't know what you got).

I use Yellow = tool steel

Green = 1018 (mild Steel)

Red = Stainless


Use what ever colors you choose but do write them down so that you know

All other metal that comes into the shop is junk (unknown) and is treated like it (If I use a piece that is junk and it machines well and makes the part I need then so be it


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## va4ngo (Oct 15, 2009)

Thanks George, I'll adopt the colour coding.


Regards
Phil


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## va4ngo (Oct 16, 2009)

I have an apology to Zee as he had asked me for photos and of course I don't have any photos as the work is in progress. It just occurred to me that I could have taken a photo of the original photo in magazine Oct Live steam 1977 and here they are.
I had already made the piston some 15 years ago and will need to tackle the cylinder soon. This will be somewhat of a challenge for me as it requires some silver solder work which will need some sub assemblies welded together. These sub assemblies are finished and have required a lot of time for me to get to that stage. It was the silver solder excercise 15 years ago that caused me to abandon engine modelling. Maybe I should go for a good adhesive as I do not intend to run these on steam?
Note also the neat looking linkages for valve mechanism. I love things that go up and down and have lots of animation. This engine will have quite a bit of that.


 In the next stage of the build process I will be making the pair of crankshaft bearings. As can be seen in the photo, the crankshaft bearings are located at bottom of conrod.These are made from rectangular stock 1 1/4" long by 1/2" wide x 1/4" thick. I don't have any brass that size so I will be making them from 1 3/8" Diameter round brass rod then cutting and filing to shape. refer Mr Pythagoras.


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## cobra428 (Oct 16, 2009)

Melbourne_Phil,
Nice work, Marv is going to really like you with all that Pythagorean stuff.

Just kidding Marv!

Tony


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 16, 2009)

I have to admit that I don't know enough to say if it's unusual or not...but it is interesting.

Thanks for the pics...it helps me know what you're building. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your progress.


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## va4ngo (Oct 17, 2009)

Take a piece of 1 3/8" round brasss rod, centre drill and and tiurn to correct diameter, Locate shoulders as we are making a pair of these, then drill just under 1/4" diam. prior to reaming (15/64"). Here I used the Home made reamer again , wonderful simple tool.
The crankshaft is then ready to test for proper alignment.


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## va4ngo (Oct 17, 2009)

The pair of crankshaft bearings were then put together on shaft, looks like we are making a Loco here, and marked up on the v-block as per previous instructions for 90 degree marking out

Then transferred to 1-2-3 block, to be drilled and then pinned together, for cutting and filing to shape


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## va4ngo (Oct 17, 2009)

Here the bearings are almost finished (will wait to see how everything looks before final finishing)

Its always rewarding to see how far you have progressed. 


Remember I have to get back to those broken 2mm taps before I can assemble the valve block

If you don't know what I am referring to, you will need to read another post under "Mistakes, Blunders and Boo Boos" titled " New use for an old vibrator"

and the other post under "Questions and answers" titled "Removing a broken tap"

Happy reading

Phil


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## 4wheels (Oct 18, 2009)

As you said Phil it will be very 'animated' when running. Can't wait to see the video. I see what you mean by your subject title 'unusual steam engine - it sure is. Keep up the good work.
Cheers,


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## va4ngo (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks for your comment Brian

The Title "Unususual Steam Engine" was the Title adopted by "Live Steam Magazine". There is no other name for the engine

Cheers
Phil


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## arnoldb (Oct 18, 2009)

You're making good progress on this one Phil Thm:

I'm itching to see it running!

Regards, Arnold


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## va4ngo (Oct 19, 2009)

Now its time to make the crankshaft assemblies there are 4 of these and a re a simple cutting, filing and drilling.The outside dimensions do not require a high degree of accuracy. The holes of course need to be dimensionally correct for od. location and to be perpendicular. These are approx 7/8" x 3/8" x 3/16" brass and I am cutting them from a partially completed block of brass which was at hand. I have 8 of these blocks and they look as if they could be handy for some sort of vise. They have been very well machined with a slot. Any Ideas for a use for these?

Photo 1.. The scrap block  from which the parts are to be made.
Photo 2.. All 12 holes drilled (3 per crankshaft assembly) Centre drill holes hand held for drilling in drill press (better feel for finding the pre punched centres as I have a very large gargantuan vice ) then transferred to machine vice for ldrilling arger holes. I hope to purchase a smaller vice for these smaller jobs.
Photo 3.. Holes drilled to size and ready to cut, face and file to shape.
Photo 4.. Blocks separated into pairs for finishing. This photo also shows part of the drawing. Note that the drawing is in imperial measurements and the handwrittten dimensions are my metric conversions. All sizing was kept the same just direct conversion to metric. Metric screws will be used.

Cranks need to be fitted and a fine sawcut made to clamp the crankshaft and con rods (there are 4 con rods)


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 19, 2009)

Following with high interest Phil. Good progress.


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## va4ngo (Oct 20, 2009)

The pairs were next placed in 4 jaw for facing. It was here I began to question my decision to make the parts from a flat block instead of going looking for a piece of material the correct size. This would have saved at least 4 lengthy steps. Better to spend more time making parts than non essential machining.

Pairs were faced to cotterct thickness then sawcut to width and again to 4 jaw for machining to length

Here I am working very close to chuck jaws and I was finding it very difficuly to place a parallel behind jaws to machine squarely


The 4 cranks were then held together and a 45 deg chamfer added in the Bench vice. Here I used a 45/90 deg square to eyeball when the part was sitting at 45 deg in the vice and filed horizontal to produce the chamfer.

Just for good measure I again reamed the large holes with the home made reamer.
Next I will tap the 2mm holes and provide a fine sawcut in ends of cranks.


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## va4ngo (Oct 25, 2009)

Thanks Josep

I am building as per the plans and am being held up by the cylinder which is a block of brass 1" x 3/4" x 1 1/2". I may need to silver solder 2 pieces together as they need to be separated later

Thanks for your interest and encouragement

Phil


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## 4wheels (Oct 26, 2009)

Hi Phil,
I have several lumps of brass from the bin of a shop which uses approx 2"dia in a turret lathe and has zillions of 2-3" bits left foe scrap. I'm happy to send a bit over but I wonder if postage is more than a bit of silver solder??
Let me know.
Cheers,


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## Deanofid (Oct 26, 2009)

It's getting more and more interesting, Phil. Still watching, and enjoying your build.
Keep 'er up.

Dean


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## va4ngo (Oct 26, 2009)

Thanks Brian for your kind offer of 2" Diam brass

Yes A little expensive to send Downunder.

Dean,
Thanks also for hints to keep going. I am just tidying up a few small jobs ( cutting down 2mm screws, 2mm taps, removing broken taps when I buy the Alum , then back in to build)
i am also looking forward to finished engine.
Phil


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## 4wheels (Oct 29, 2009)

Hi Phil,
I AM downunder but there's still a Tazzy in between. Mind you the Tazzy is usually more expensive than the rest of the world.
Keep the build going - most interesting.
Cheers,


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## starnovice (Dec 2, 2012)

This should put your thread back in the Recent Threads list.  It is a good thread and I hope you are able to finish it.

Pat


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