# DaveRC Builds a Upshur Single Vertical engine



## DaveRC (Feb 3, 2011)

My first engine build. 

I have been wanting to build an IC engine for years, never had the time or tools to do this. Last year I got myself a lathe and this year got myself a mill. 

Now I have the tools, I looked for a simpleish build I came across the Upshur Single Vertical 4 stroke engine and ordered all the back issues of Strictly IC that cover the build.

Now with all the plans, read everything I could find on it I got to work. First thing I do not work with imperial very well so started to convert everything to metric. Lots of discussion on here about how to do the conversion, ended up leaving some of what I call the critical stuff, piston, crank, crank shaft, cams etc in imperial and the rest to metric.

Even though I was determined to build it as the plans and not to change anything I ended up changing a few bits before I even started. First thing was the main body crank case. The plans show six separate parts to the body plus extra parts to make the gear cover that sticks out the side, I have cut that down to two parts by making almost a casting from a solid block and making a cover (back). In doing this I cant make the cylinder as the plans as it was to solder onto the top cover. This is good as I did not like the idea of this anyway and made up the fins to come all the way down to bolt onto the main body, this also allows me to make the cylinder out of cast iron as it now just a liner.

So a couple of significant changes to the build, the other change was to replace the bearings on the two shafts with ball races, I had a big selection in the draw and was a simple (ish) task and as the bearings where quite thin there was enough room to counter bore then in from the inside of the housing.

First entry - The crank case

Take one big chunk of Ali







Cut a lump off, (must buy a bandsaw, that was hard work..)






Trim it all up on the mill and the cover all to size






Start milling out the inside






Until you get this






Then start forming space for the gear






end up with this






Then start shaping the outside






Finaly I ended up with





and with the cover off






It's a start, more photos and updates soon.

Dave


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 3, 2011)

Looks Marvelous!!! Is the style of this engine going to be the same as one of MetalButchers Upshur engines?


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 3, 2011)

Off to a good start Dave. I'll be following along. Do you plan on making the flywheels and gears or purchasing?


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## DaveRC (Feb 3, 2011)

Well, yes, sort of.... I have been following MB thread, I actually started this some time ago before I had seen his work, but only just got around to posting the progress. But I must admit I got lots of tips from following his work, as well as a big pile of inspiration ;D

Also I am only building one, I think one at a time is enough for me... 

flywheels, not sure what I am doing there yet, as for the gears, I got two gear cutters on the bench ready to make my own, now thats going to be fun, never cut gears before


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## metalmad (Feb 3, 2011)

lookimg great Dave
is this a hit and miss engine?
How about posting a pic of what the engine will look like when finished


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## bearcar1 (Feb 3, 2011)

The usage of a manual hacksaw as well as a file for profiling builds character (hurts like you know what at times but it builds character nonetheless) ;D Great looking start Dave, I've always rather fancied the uprights.

BC1
Jim


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## DaveRC (Feb 3, 2011)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> lookimg great Dave
> is this a hit and miss engine?
> How about posting a pic of what the engine will look like when finished



Hi, no, it's not a hit and miss, normal 4 stroke.

As for the final photo, I don't actually have a photo apart from the one on the front of the mag, it's here, number 2

http://hamiltonupshur.tripod.com/


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 3, 2011)

Excellent start Dave! I like the way you milled the rounded profile. 

Using a hack saw is a nice touch. I still use mine once in a while.

A 4"x6" H/V powered band-saw is in stock somewhere... and waiting for a home.

Give it a nice home Dave. ;D

-MB


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## DaveRC (Feb 3, 2011)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> Excellent start Dave! I like the way you milled the rounded profile.
> 
> -MB



Yeah, now where did I see that done before.....


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 3, 2011)

DaveRC  said:
			
		

> Yeah, now where did I see that done before.....



I'm smiling Dave! You just made all my efforts worth while! 

-MB


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## ironman (Feb 3, 2011)

Good going Dave. That was my "get your feet wet" ic engine. Wish I had thought then to use a block instead of all those capscrews and that little side cover for the gear. Was an experience never to forget.

Great work. Keep it up and more photos.

ironman (Ray)


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## nfk (Feb 4, 2011)

It`s looking good so far!
Keep sending pictures, i promise i`ll keep watching!

Norberto


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## DaveRC (Feb 6, 2011)

Thanks for the comments guys, will try to keep this thread going.....

002 - Next update, must take more photos, I get carried away some time and keep forgetting to take the photos, even though I keep the camera on the bench Must try harder..

Anyway, making the fins, which originally was supposed to be just the fins and not come all the way down to the base, well as I changed it I needed to bring it all the way so I could bolt it on to the base.

Fins in the making. I was reading up on MB progress on making the fins and he talked about quite a bit of the old chatter when cutting the fins, common problem with using a parting off tool I think, well it is with me. Anyway MB got round it mainly by lowering the speed of the lathe, well I had not tried that and dropped the speed to about 300 RPM, would you believe it worked a treat, still got through quite a load of suds, but it did work.






Cylinder, The bit of cast iron I got was a bit on the small side, did not realize until I cleaned up the outside. I ended up with a liner that is fine apart from the lip at the top is not very big, I think it big enough but may think about remaking it before I fit it, would prefer it to get a better seal. It a very tight fit and will need to heat the fins to get it in, but need to anodise the fins first.






And with the fins bolted onto the base, looking good I think. One of the screws was a bit tight and has come through on the cover, I did not realise, not a problem and will not show when the cover is on






But it looks cool all bolted together


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## cfellows (Feb 6, 2011)

Nice progress and a nice photo coverage. I had wondered how the radiused side covering the timing gear was cut. I learned something from your pictures!

Thx...
Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 6, 2011)

Hi Dave, your project is looking really good!

I simplified my cylinders and eliminated the the use of a cylinder liner, by making four of my cylinders from one piece of cast iron. I tried cutting the fins at @400 and got the worst chatter imaginable. Based on Georges (gbritnell) recombination I dropped down to the lowest speed on my lathe @130 and that solved the problem. Since I bored out the cylinders before cutting the fins I couldn't use a live center. I'm sure that this also added to the chatter problem.

Looks like you have a good handle on chatter, and using the fluid was a good idea.

-MB


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 6, 2011)

Nice work---One of these days, when I recover from the Kerzel, I'm going to build something with an enclosed crankase like that.--It'd be nice to have at least one engine that doesn't spew oil everywhere while its running!!!!----Brian


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## DaveRC (Feb 7, 2011)

Thanks again for the comments guys, feedback is always good (good or bad) as this is my first engine and thinking about what I am doing this is also the first of anything I have made like this that actually has more than a couple of parts, its quite a different challenge making something like this that is a complete machine.

003  The Head

Was not looking forward to making this, quite a lot of work on one small part, my worry was one mistake and having to start again! But as it seems the metal gods are with me and so far its all gone according to plan, but still, plenty time left to go wrong yet.. 

I turned up the blank in the lathe ready but I knew I have no V clamps so could not hold it in the vice on the mill, I made a base/holder up. Drilled through the head where the valves were going but with smaller hols than needed for the valves (so I had room to drill them out later), but just the right size for a couple of M5 bolts and carefully drilled and tapped a couple of M5 threads into the base.






And with the blank head mounted on the base






With this it mounts in the mill very nicely.






On the original plan was to use like a slitting saw to cut the fins, I did look into getting a slitting saw but thought I may try a different way. I got myself some 2mm long reach mills, wow, there are small and paranoid I was going to break them (OK I did snap one, but not while cutting, I caught one of the bolts when moving the bed to cut the other side of the head, good job I had backups), taking VERY small cuts at a time and just increasing the depth 0.5mm at a time and did it all very slowly.






Drilling the side ports and hole for the spark plug was easy with the head in its mount.






So, finished, all clean, all holes the drilled and reamed to there final size, the only thing I have not done is cut the seats for the valves, this will be done after its been anodised and everything else fitted. Yes, watch this thread, I have a small anodising setup at home and a good selection of dyes and been getting some great results.


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## tel (Feb 7, 2011)

A good wheez, that mounting block, one well worth remembering. Nice work on the head - it's a credit to you!



> -One of these days, when I recover from the Kerzel



 Rof} I thought you were building another 99 of 'em Brian - to use up all those 1/8" balls.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 7, 2011)

Yer laughing at the wrong guy Tel---this is Daves build,,,Not mine. ;D ;D ;D


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## ironman (Feb 7, 2011)

Good job on that head Dave. Thm:     ironman(Ray)


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## DaveRC (Feb 9, 2011)

004  Valves, guides, springs and bits.

Valves, humm, first one I made is in the bin, did not get a very good finish on it and just was not happy with the way it turned out. Second one was to my satisfaction. Made out of stainless, turned down about ¼ inch at a time to stop it springing while cutting. I cut the grove for the E clip with a dermal, now I am not taking any credit for this idea I have seen this done before on this very forum, but cant for the life of me remember who it was, but looked like a dam good idea, so I tried it.. The mount for the dermal I have I made a long time ago for a different project and been using it for all sorts since. The holder replaces the tool post, it did the trick.











Finished valves






Valve guides made from brass and the caps as well, springs I had kicking about.






Next was the rocker support. I have probably made this back to front, I am sure others would have made the square post first and this with a 4 jaw in the lathe turned down the mounting post. I did this the other way, I used a bit of hex to start with, turned down the mounting post and then it was easy to mount in the mill to make the square post. 
















Next was the rockers, wow, these were a pig to make. I thought I would be clever (bad idea) and make the basic shape to size for both at the same time in one long bit, then cut them in two to finish off. First problem was the mill bit slipped in the collet (never happened before) and dug in to it, first bit in the :toilet:. Next I got myself confused with the left and right handed bits and cut them the wrong way, next bit in the :toilet: So I decided to mill one at a time, much better, I did bolt then back to back to finish off, but it was worth the effort and I think they look good, the final rounding was done with a drum sander in the dermal and then finally with a file.







Last was the rocker shaft, tried to follow the original plan and drill and tap the ends for some very small bolts, just could not get it to dill small enough in something so small and hard. Gave up and used 2 more E clips.


With the valve guides finally glued in there final resting place, there where a good push fit but a bit of loctite on them just to make sure. I put a small bolt into a block to act as a stop so they would go to the right depth and not go in to far, I put the head over the bolt through the valve hole one at a time and pushed the guide in to the stop. I was dreading doing this as I dont think the Loctite gives you to long to mess about.








005  Final assembled Head woohoo1

And this is it, the final assembled head. I am so impressed with the way that all came together. I am sure only you guys on here can appreciate how happy with the result, my wife gave it the same appreciation as she would to something the cat dragged in.

Anyway, gold head, thought it was a nice touch. The fins will be going black, not sure about the crank case yet






The gold anodising dye is strange stuff, its clear green in colour and watching the head turn gold in it was very odd.


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 9, 2011)

Well done and nicely documented Mr. Dave. Thanks. 

-Trout


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## MikeA (Feb 10, 2011)

Hello Dave,

I am new at this myself and have just completed my first engine, a Duclos Fire Eater. Starting out with the Upshur Vertical is quite a feat but from your build so far it appears you have the 'knack' or whatever required - looks great! I'll likely start on one of these today after seeing your and MBs' build logs.

One question: I also have done some anodizing with mixed results - not bad but not great. I've used Rit dyes instead of the purpose-made ones and wonder if that is the big variable. That gold head looks fantastic and seems to me to be the right color to really complement one of these little jewels. 

I'll be watching this thread for future developments.

Best,
Mike


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## DaveRC (Feb 10, 2011)

Hi Mike,

Yes the anodising, been doing it a while now and I was also getting very mixed results with the dyes. I found company selling different dyes from what I was using. I contacted then and they supplied me with some small amounts to try out (very reasonable cost as well) the dyes were very different from what I was using, came in powder form and had to dissolve this in almost boiling water (all water used in mixing the dyes should be distilled). But the main difference with these are the operating temperature is around the 40 to 50C mark (no hotter then this or the part starts to seal). Black and Gold are the only two colours I have tried so far, but the results are consistent and good, the black is black, very deep and as if it came off the end of a production line. The other colours I have, but yet to try are, Blue, Red, Green, Orange and Violet.

This is the company I now get my dyes from.

http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php

If you want more info, or if anyone else wants info them maybe I should start another thread, I got loads of info and it's not that hard once you sorted the bits out.


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## MikeA (Feb 10, 2011)

Hello Dave,

It sounds as though we've had parallel experience with anodizing. There is a company here as well that sells small amounts of the purpose-made dyes for anodizing and I've just not been too active with it recently to give it a try, but definitely will be going that route, especially if you say the black comes out with the deep lustre - that's the hardest one for me. 

Attached are a couple of photos of some things I anodized - a toolpost holder for my Foredom grinder and an optical center punch. The holder came out OK - I didn't prep the surface sufficiently as I was just going for the hard coating. The Optical center came out well with a deep blue finish. 

Looking forward to more posts on your Upshur!

Best,
Mike


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## cl350rr (Feb 10, 2011)

Dave,
incredible job on the head. I woul.d like to see a thread on anodizing if you have time to put it together. 

Randel


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## DaveRC (Feb 17, 2011)

006  Hall device pickup holder thing.

No updates for a while, I got distracted by my first grandchild coming into the world last week, so no time to get into the shop. Anyway young Oliver is doing well.

Also got totally sidetracked by MB, I had on the bench ready to do next was the con rod and crank. Then in the post came the TIM-6 ignition unit and I had been thinking about mounting the pickup and then MB put up his pickup mount and then I had an idea in my head and could not get it out so ended up making it :

The one I have made does not give such an easy solution to adjusting the timing, I am hoping once set I will not have to touch it. I had in mind a contained unit so it was totally shielded and protected and just a single cable. I picked up some shielded cable from the local Maplin, they have some 4 core screened cable that is just over 3mm dia, very small indeed. Looking at the TIM-6 I see that the hall device only needs 2 of the wires plus the screen, also on the TIM-6 there is a timing LED so thought is may be cool to incorporate the LED in the mount, this only need one wire, plus the shield again.

No drawings, well some sketches on some post it notes, made most of it out my head. :idea:

As usual I forgot to take enough photos, before I knew it I got it almost done.






The hall device is buried deep in the block and will fix it in using silicone, along with the wires and LED. Included is a VERY small screw in the back to use as a ground point for the screen, must remember to remove the anodising around the area under the screw as the anodised layer does not conduct electricity and would make it pointless. The disk is held on with a couple of grub screws that can be accessed from the side and holds the extremely small rare earth magnet. 

Done, this will bolt onto the back of the engine, two bolt holes and the LED in the middle under the disk that will hold the magnet.






Its a bit fiddly in the back, good job I am use to working with very small electrics, so should not be a problem. The cable will have a dab of epoxy on the inside to hold it in place and should all look nice and neat.

Back view, channel cut out for the wire, hall device at the top






And the final photo, for now, showing the disk in place, the magnet is a rare erth magnet and very small.






Next is to get it anodised, will do this when I get a batch of bits to do. Black body and gold disk I think


The next instalment should be the con rod and then the crank. I have been thinking ahead and one of the things I had been playing with in my mind was the tank, now I have seen another update from MB about the tank, I must resist and get on with the tank.. dam, crank, crank, crank.. :wall: :wall:


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 17, 2011)

Congratulations... Grandpa! 

Your project is looking good and moving along very well! :bow:

The Upshur model your building is considerably more complex than the farm models.

I'm looking forward to seeing your completed project!

-MB


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## MikeA (Feb 19, 2011)

Hello Dave,

Congratulations on your grandchild - best thing that can happen to a man; my granddaughter is now almost 14 (going on 23!) and is a great joy to us. 

The build is looking great and I am looking forward to the Black and Gold anodized parts (Pittsburgh Steeler football fan.)

Can you give more details on the ignition setup? I'll likely start my build of the Upshur momentarily and would like to know which ignition system to order. This being my first IC engine, I'd like something that's as trouble free (and idiot proof) as possible.

Best,
Mike


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## DaveRC (Feb 24, 2011)

Hi, Thanks guys, it's an odd feeling now being a grandpa, but a good feeling... ;D

MB, you think this one is more complex then the farms engines...? Really, did not think there was much in it. After watching your build I am seriously thinking about building one of Hamiltons farm engines, a water cooled version, really like the look of that one, and very curious about the hit-n-miss.... 

Mike, Pittburgh Steeler football fan eh, oh well, trust me the colours have nothing to do with football (I am not a football fan). I have other colours but I do not want to introduce any others as I would like to keep it as classy as I can...

On the ignition, this is my first engine and not got any experience with model ignition, I am using the TIM-6c kit mainly because it looked simple. I am not looking for performance I just want the engine to tick over so was just wanting something that worked. I will however report my findings when I get round to it and no doubt I will be setting up some sort of test bed to check it all out.


Right, onto,

007  The Con Rod

Needed to do this before the crank so I have something to check the fitting when making the crank.

Interesting little part was this, but fun to make.....

First job was to find a suitable material, the plans say brass, bronze or aluminium, well I have no brass or bronze big enough but did have some aluminium plate, which I think is more Dural than Aluminium. Anyway, its quite hard so I hope it will do the job.

Cut out a strip wide and long enough and squared it all up on the mill, including squaring up one end. Blued it all up with a marker pen and marked out centre lines along the face and end, and marked out the end for the holes for the bolts. 






Drilled in the end a hole for each of the bolts, drilling the hole for the 3mm thread first, then opening up to 3mm clearance for the bolt in as far as where it will be cut and also drilled out the oil hole. 






After this I cut the end off,






Then back in the mill to square up the cut. Threaded the body and then fitted the end back on, looks like it was never cut off 






After this it was back in the mill to drill the holes for the crank and wrist pin. Now I drilled the holes a size smaller then needed, this is so I can use the holes to bolt the thing in place on the mill while I was shaping the rod.






Took off the recess on each side, then off the base plate an mounted the part in the vice on its side.






I used a couple of drills through the holes to get the level and calculated then the small end needed to be raised by 2mm to get the correct angle, so used another drill to use as a gauge to raise the height. It sort of worked and sort of pleased with the results.






For the small end I tried bolting it back through the hole and turning the part by hand to shape the round at the top. This did not go as well as I expected and ended up finishing it off with a file, still a bit rough and needs a bit more work before I am happy.






Made up a mandrel in the lathe to hold the rod while I cut the step in the side face of the big end of the rod, this seems to go well.











And this is it finished, but I think I want a bit more file work on the small end. 






It was an odd part to make and I made some mistakes (tiny ones), mainly to me rushing it, did not have a lot of free time over the weekend, so not giving it the care I should have done, if this part was visible I would have thought about starting again. But I think I am getting fussy now and the more I do the more I spot my own mistakes so all part to the learning curve.

Dave


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## bearcar1 (Feb 24, 2011)

Congratulations are in order for both you and your daughter. :bow: Now onto things of lesser importance (depends on who you talk to), You are doing some terrific work there Dave and the results have been spectacular. The clarity of the photos coupled with your narrative makes me feel like I'm right there along side. That crankcase is another great example of profile engineering that truly will set this engine off when it gets displayed. Keep slogging away and we will be here looking over your shoulder anxiously awaiting the final video.

BC1
Jim


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## DaveRC (Mar 8, 2011)

008  Crank shaft

Wow, I cant believe I have had so little time in the shop, this is just not on. I have been itching to get in there but its just one thing after another, very annoying..

Progress is VERY slow and frustrating and other projects keep coming up and getting in the way, but I will get there eventually.

I did at last manage a few hours last week and over the weekend so started work on the crank.

Never ever done anything like this before and been getting very worried about this, so taking it one step at a time. First I got myself some black steel, which was way to big Still no power saw so using good old elbow power cut a bit off and cleaned it all up in the mill.






Marked out and while in the mill drilled the centres needed on the ends.






Now to mount in the lathe, very interesting job this, never turned a piece between centres like this and took a bit of thought, well for me it did anyway But I got there in the end and it seemed to go well.






Managed to turn the pin fine, very slow, but it went OK. One thing I did find out, and I am sure I have seen it said, black steel is hard to get a good finish on it Well I can vouch for that, its a right pig of a job to get a good finish. I found a very sharp HHS tool and some suds worked the best.

Anyway, on to the rest of the shaft, back in the vice and out the bulk of the unwanted bits with the hacksaw again. 






After one side was done 






I mounted it in a collet on the lathe, first time I have ever used a collet on a lathe as well seemed to work well on the other side.

Got the bit on the bench and was checking it all out with the callipers and realised I had made a mistake, I had misread the plans and the 0.132 width of the gap for the con rod, I had used for the shoulders and it should have been 0.250, ooops, back in the lathe and took a bit off. Good job it was not the other way around.

Anyway, sorted,






So this is as far as I got, the crank still needs some more work, needs a good clean up, need to make the counter weights and the shaft need to be turned down buy 1mm to fit into the ball races

Next instalment with be in about a month at the rate I am going, not the best but its still going in the right direction.

Dave


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## ironman (Mar 8, 2011)

Thm: Good looking crankshaft Dave. Glad to see you have some time to work on the upshur.

ironman (Ray)


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## JohnS (Apr 13, 2011)

Dave 

As I have just started on the Upshur vertical 4 stroke myself and in the midst of machining the six crankcase plates I came across your build thread and your inspired interpretation of the plans is making me seriously consider a fresh start. 

Your clear photos and your problem solving approach will be a huge help to me.

Thanks Dave and I am sure you will keep up the good work.

John-Som


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## DaveRC (Apr 28, 2011)

Hi,

Glad you found it useful, but I am still not 100% it's going to work, I can't see why not though....

My building of this has come to a grinding halt. Other projects from some other interests have taken over so I have not go any further with this, no doubt I will get back to it at some point as I have gone way past the point of no-return, probably will be left for a winter project now to finish.

Dave


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## JohnS (Apr 29, 2011)

Hi Dave

Maybe it's the uncertainty of success when we take on a new challenge that drives us forward. In other words if success was guaranteed from the outset where would be the fun ?

I for one was disappointed that you will not be continuing the build of your Upshur in the immediate future. Having made a second start on my own engine things are progressing albeit slowly. The Upshur is a small engine, certainly when compared with my last engine build (Jan Ridders' Simple Two Stroke) and I have arrived at the conclusion that the time taken to machine components increases as the size reduces. 

So far the crankcase has been completed apart from a little shaping of the exterior. With the con rod completed I am now working on the crankshaft though I have chosen the built up version. 

I do hope we will get to see the completion of your Upshur complete with mandatory video.

John


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