# Need to replace electrical switch on my 818P Jet metal bench lathe with milling head



## yellow_cad (Nov 22, 2021)

The original switch has six buttons.  These are for 

forward phase one
reverse phase one
off
forward phase two (twice the speed of phase one)
reverse phase two (twice the speed of phase one)
mill on and off

This is a 1980 model lathe that I acquired in 2010.  When I got it the phase two switches did not work which was not the end of the world, but now the mill switch has ceased to work.  The phase two switches do nothing when pushed, but the mill switch will run the mill if the switch is held down, but will not stay on otherwise.

I would replace the switch in a heart beat, but I don't believe a direct replacement is available.  I would also replace the switch with another with similar functions, but I don't know electrical switches well enough to know what to get and how to wire it.  I would also consider modifying the existing switch just so the mill switch would hold in the on position, but I would love to have the phase two on the lathe if the motor is still capable of doing it.

Also, wondering if there is some sort of forum with discussions on older Jet metal lathes. 

Thanks for any thoughts on this.  Jim


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 22, 2021)

The motor plate reads as follows (plate was difficult to read as the letter/numbers were very fine:

Stanley Electric Motor Company

Induction Motor

Type - TTC
HP - 1 3/4 (on the plate as 1/3/4)
Pole - 2/4
Rotor - 0
Rating - Cont.
IN2.CL - E (this is the one I'm the least sure of)
Volt - 112
Cycles - 60
Amps - 56/6A
RPM - 3450/1710
Gave bearing numbers
Mfg number - 85618
Year of mfg - 1980


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 23, 2021)

yellow_cad,

Some thoughts occur:

Is there anything between the switch and the motor? I am wondering if there is a circuit board or one or more relays involved here.

Can you find any other information on the motor regarding connections, with small type saying something like "line on terminals 1,2,3", or some-such. There may be a pictorial or schematic diagram inside the terminal box on the motor. 

There may be information like a wiring diagram or an original instruciton manual online that could help you.

You may also find a source for parts online, which may have a diagram that could help you decide what parts to get. You will need the actual model number of your machine, your serial number, possibly a date of manufacturer or a "type" or "series" designation in addition to the model number. What I do (and what service techs that come to my house do) nowadays, is take a photo of the tags and etc. before searching for parts. I have had more than one friendly service tech show me that he checks generic online information first before using a proprietary system to attempt an order through "official" channels.

For older machines and appliances, an original part may be indicated as needing a generic substitute part, or even a part ordered from another brand source.

Where are you located? If in the USA, we can recommend vendors that may be able to help.

--ShopShoe


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 23, 2021)

Thanks.  I'm in California.  I located a reproduced manual and I have it coming.  It has an electrical schematic.






Here is what it looks like from the outside.


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 24, 2021)

Well,

That switch looks pretty bad, in appearance at least. It may still be OK, depending on what's inside the machine. I'll be watching to see what that manual you ordered has to show.

We will probably need  some pictures of the back of things or what you may end up removing from the machine.

--ShopShoe


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 24, 2021)

Here are two photos of the inside of the electrical box.

There are 7 wires coming from the lathe motor:
Red
White
Blue
Yellow
Orange
Black
Green

And, from the mill motor there are 3 wires:
Black
White
Red

The electrical box also contains two capacitors; one large one for the lathe and one small one for the mill (I believe).


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 24, 2021)

The extra photos are me not that good at attaching photos.  I live in Northern California.


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 24, 2021)

Here is a photo with more light.


----------



## Ken I (Nov 25, 2021)

You photos show capacitors - so this is a single phase motor ? I presume it is a 4 pole motor which can be hooked up as a 2 pole.
The double caps are start / run.
2 pole will run at 3600rpm @ 60Hz (less ±5% slip = 3420)
as 4 pole 1800rpm (1710)
I am guessing there will be 8 wires coming out of the motor to the switch. Possibly 10 if there is a centrifugal cut off switch - but this may be wired up internally - there are going to be a lot of permutations and a wiring diagram will be a big help.
Refer to the diagrams I posted in this thread - post #41
Zx45 wiring question
And that's for a single speed - its going to get a lot more complicated for a dual speed.

Regards, Ken


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 25, 2021)

It looks like an original wiring diagram may be needed. Your picture of the wiring side of the switch sure looks like someone did some things to make it work, but that the final result wasn't that great. 

What jumps out to me: 

1. Wire-end terminals look like some or all have been replaced and they are not insulated. I'm not sure about the way that they are bent over. 

2. Soldering looks rough, even if we are used to rough-looking solder jobs from some factories. It looks like there are places where insulation on adjacent wires is partially melted, possibly from a too-large soldering tool.

3. Green jumpers soldered in from terminal-to-terminal accross the switch. Green is supposed to be ground, and unless this is really a ground wire someone has improvised connections with whatever was available. (And pretty much everyone in the world respects the "Green, Bare, or Green-and-Yellow" for the indication of ground [earth].)

4. The use of plastic electrical tape on the capacitors, and no other means of securing them that I can see.

5. Capacitors look like they are aftermarket, maybe even recycled. (Just a guess)

IMHO, I think that it might be possible to create a replacement for this switch, if it can be determined how it was originally connected and how it was originally supposed to function. Possibly that replacement may not fit into the machine as a direct replacement for this switch.

I think it is do-able, and if it was my machine I would repair it.

--ShopShoe


----------



## Ken I (Nov 25, 2021)

How many terminals are there on the motor terminal block - what labels ?
A photo of the motor's terminal block would help.
If it was mine I would replace the complex switch with three switches driving relays - a green start button and a red stop button (Duhh..) a toggle switch for high/low range and a toggle switch for forward and reverse.
Still need to know the motor layout before I can suggest a circuit.
Once you have a circuit you could also build a rotary cam switch for all those functions - the sales guys for such are usually quite helpful in specifying all the components - but only for a coherent diagram.
Or - just maybe you might be able to dope out and repair the existing switch - but from appearances it looks like it is quite broken and been simply bodged to get some semblance of operation out of it.

Regards, Ken


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 25, 2021)

Stanley Electric Motor Company

Induction Motor

Type - TTC
HP - 1 3/4 (on the plate as 1/3/4)
Pole - 2/4
Rotor - C
Rating - Cont.
INS.CL - E (this is the one I'm the least sure of)
Volt - 112
Cycles - 60
Amps - 5.6/6A
RPM - 3450/1710
Gave bearing numbers
Mfg number - 85618
Year of mfg - 1980 

Here is the motor plate as shown in my post above with a few corrections.  The tape on the capacitors is merely to keep them from touching the metal case.


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 25, 2021)

Does anyone know what the type of switch I have is called (such as contact, magnetic, etc.)?  I'm not sure what to call it so I can seek a similar replacement.


----------



## Scott_M (Nov 25, 2021)

I think your motor has 2 HP ratings
1HP for 2 pole operation
and 3/4 HP for 4 pole operation
so it is 1 or 3/4    not 1 and 3/4

That is the way the other numbers are called out.  RPM, Amps and poles

Scott


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 25, 2021)

Makes sense Scott.


----------



## Ken I (Nov 25, 2021)

Can you take a photo of the motors's terminal block like this :-




The terminals will (or should be) marked with U1, U2, V1, V2, W1, W2, X1, X2, Z1, Z2 or similar

Also look inside the cover, there is sometimes a printed diagram sticker or moulded-in diagram of the motor circuit.

As regards the switch - it looks like a custom unit - probably only available from the manufacturers (if you're lucky).

Regards, Ken


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 26, 2021)

What Ken says is what I was thinking.

Series of buttons or combination of buttons and switches that drive relays to duplicate the function of the original switch.

It would be important to incorporate safety features into the design so that machine doesn't start when line (mains) power is applied and to allow "stop" switch to stop everything.

All of this goes back to trying to determine how the original circuit and the original switch were designed to operate when the machine left the factory.

As far as the original switch goes, it was most likely custom-built for the machine (or for a range of machines made by that manufacturer). I don't think that there is a description of it that could find you a generic substitute. You might find one out there somewhere, but you also might spend a long time looking and pay an exorbitant price. Over time, I have seen a lot of OEM custom parts for all kinds of devices show up on the surplus market. Most of the time, you would find something with a "guesstimate" description like "Panel Switch, 8-position, 8 colored buttons, originally made for a machine tool." You would have to guess whether that item could be used. This takes us back to designing a new control panel for your machine using currently available industrial components.

--

Here is what I think today:

1. Look for a diagram of the motor connections and take a picture of the terminal board inside the motor where all the motor wires attach to the inside parts of the motor. Post those. Do that for both motors.

2. When you get the manual you ordered, Post the schematic and any relevant pictures for us.

3. Photograph or copy all of the machine tags and post those.

4. If there is information in the manual you receive that tells how the controls were designed to operate, post those descriptions.

5. Post the infomation you can read on the capacitors and anything else connected to the wiring.

6. If there are any additional switches, such as safety interlocks, note where they are and what they were supposed to do.

Note that I heavily used "were designed to" above. How it operated with the present switch as you bought it may not be the same thing. You may also find that other things are lurking, such as removed or bypassed safety switches. It is also conceivable that original color coding is no longer true.

--ShopShoe


----------



## karlw144 (Nov 27, 2021)

This switch looks similar to the one on my Emco Maier V10P (70’s vintage too). That switch offers forward/reverse with low/ hi speeds and an on button for the mill motor. There is one “off” button that cuts power to the lathe or mil motor. If you join the Groups.IO 
[email protected] | Topics 
there are several write ups in the files on how to replace this fiddly switch block with more readily available components. Hope this helps. 
karl


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 27, 2021)

Well, as I've developed an academic interset in this electrical problem and possible solutions, I just went tripping through the link posted by karlw144 above.

It certainly looks like the problems with the original switches on the V10P are like the Original Poster's problems. By most of the talk on the V10 forum, it looks like cooking up a new set of controls is possibly the best approach to solving what the OP is dealing with.

But..., the chatter on that forum also gets into the reality that there are multiple solutions and a request for a "cookbook" solution is hard to address.

I guess at this point if it were my machine, I would start planning new controls. I have some electrical and electronic experience and I would not hesitate to do the work myself for my own machine. I don't know if yellow_cad wants to take that approach.


--ShopShoe


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 27, 2021)

I have pretty much resigned myself to the fact that I would do best with an entirely new switch.  I will check the forum and the varied solution.  Thanks.


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 27, 2021)

ShopShoe what did you use for a search subject to get info on the switch issues?


----------



## Scott_M (Nov 27, 2021)

I read a bunch as well and came across this one.
[email protected] | Yet another V10P switch replacement 
He mentions the name of an album he posted to the site that I cannot see ( not a member )
I searched "V10 switch replacement"

Scott


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 27, 2021)

I started registration and I am waiting for them to let me in and I will contact you person you reference Scott.

In the meantime, I did receive my schematic so here (the double images are my fault) it is:


----------



## Ghosty (Nov 28, 2021)

Scott,
That is good for an OEM switch, what you need and won't get is the internal connections(jumpers) in the switch, many have several connections on each button.
Cheers
Andrew


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 28, 2021)

The manual which may not be my exact model since a very similar lathe/mill was made in Taiwan and sold by Jet (what I have), Emco, and Grizzley.  The manual shows one button activating two switches for high speed operation.  I am missing all but two buttons, but if you try to push the two high speed switches they will not budge.  If you try to push them separately they will not budge.  The only way they will move and engage is if you press the low speed and high speed (in the direction desired) together, but the lathe still goes at low speed, and unfortunately I have seen smoke exit the motor/switch area so I immediately quit that.  I'm wondering if my motor has lost its high speed capacity.   I understand the mill switch not engaging (being a mechanical problem), but I do not understand the high speed switches not budging.


----------



## karlw144 (Nov 28, 2021)

On the Emco machine high speed can only be engaged when the machine is already running in slow speed. Pushing on the high button when the machine isn’t running will not do anything, won’t move at all.


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 29, 2021)

yellow_cad,

Just to let you know I'm still checking in: I just used the link as provided by karlw144 and started browsing the titles and clicking on likely ones. The more on-topic posts are many pages back in the list of titles.

[email protected] | Topics

I'm glad to see you got schematics and other information that can help at this point. I echo what ghosty says above. Internal connections inside the switch, etc. are not shown. Nonetheless, I think there is enough there to figure out what it is supposed to do as shipped.

--ShopShoe


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 29, 2021)

yellow_cad,

It would interest me if you could make a copy of the pictorial of the switch (front view) from page 19 and indicate what the labels on the machine say the buttons do. Some is apparent from the connections, and some can be figured out, but it would help to know how the designers were thinking when they chose this panel layout.

--ShopShoe


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 29, 2021)




----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 29, 2021)

On the Emco machine high speed can only be engaged when the machine is already running in slow speed. Pushing on the high button when the machine isn’t running will not do anything, won’t move at all. 

I tried that Karl to no avail.  I pushed the low speed forward button and while it was running, I pushed the high speed forward button, but the speed did not increase.  It is hard to believe that the manual doesn't have at least a paragraph on operating the switches especially since they are not what would normally be expected.


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 29, 2021)

Although we have been focusing on the switch, it sounds like the motor needs to be checked out. I don't have much experience with these types of motors as I've been lucky to never come up against a bad one. (I'm speaking of the lathe two-speed motor here.)

Can someone suggest a power-off troubleshooting procedure the OP can use (and so that I can learn about it, too.)

I'm basing this on the Never ASS.U.ME. rule

--ShopShoe


----------



## yellow_cad (Nov 29, 2021)

I would love to know of such a test.  I have never had use of high speed since I have had the machine (10 years).  I wasn't sure how to activate it and just got along without it.


----------



## Ken I (Nov 30, 2021)

ShopShoe said:


> Can someone suggest a power-off troubleshooting procedure the OP can use (and so that I can learn about it, too.)


Good call - never assume.
As per the diagram for the spindle motor (with wires disconnected) check for continuity for the four coils coils V1-Z, Z-X1, V2-W & W-X2 there should be no open circuits. Resitance should typically be <1 Ohm.
Next check for inter-circuit shorts V1 to V2 should be open circuit >1MegOhm..
Next check for ground faults V1 to Earth (motor frame) and V2 to Earth should be open circuit >1MegOhm.

If all that checks out you might want to check the impedance but that will require a Variac (variable AC power supply) although any fixed transformer of about one fifth of the line voltage like 20V with sufficient amps can also be used.

Connect the supply to each coil like V1-Z and turn up the voltage until you reach the indicated plate (6A) current (the motor will hum but won't turn).
What is the voltage reading at this current (probably about 20V)
Note: It will start to warm up and eventually get way too hot as there is no cooling fan - but for a short time this is no problem.
Repeat briefly for all four coils  V1-Z, Z-X1, V2-W & W-X2
Are they all the same ? or are there two identical pairs - if so identify the impedance of each coil by dividing the applied voltage by the resultant current.
Example 20.3V / 6A = 3.383 Ohms

Note: Resistance will be very low - like 0.3 Ohms, impedance is its resistance to an AC voltage.

( If you don't have access to a Variac you can apply the line voltage of 110V briefly but it will overheat very rapidly and the current will be  maybe five to ten time higher than nameplate because you are testing an effectively "stalled" motor. But for a brief test it's do-able. )

Using the Variac will identify if there is an inter-coil short - even a single shorted turn will massively influence the impedance - also that coil will overheat much quicker than the no-fault coils - smoke might even come out rather rapidly.
I don't expect to find this because such a fault would heat up in a running motor even if that coil was inactive.

Good hunting.

Regards, Ken


----------



## ShopShoe (Nov 30, 2021)

Very Good Writeup, Ken

Thank You for posting,

--ShopShoe


----------



## Ken I (Dec 1, 2021)

O.K. this post is going to get a bit technical (and hopefully no mistakes)

Firstly this is how a single phase 2 pole motor operates :-








Each pole consists of a pair of opposing coils, one pole pair is the "running wind" and the other pole pair the "starting wind".
The running wind is connected to power directly but the starting wind is connected via a capacitor.
The capacitor causes a 90° electrical shift in the A.C. waveform = so from the diagram above (top left) the start winding will reach max current 90° after the run winding causing the magnetic field vector between the two sets of coils to rotate - thus dragging the rotor around with it.

Note: Direction of rotation is changed by reversing the connection of the run wind (as above) but can also be accomplished by reversing the connection of the start windings (No way of determining which from the information thus far).

The terms L & N are nominally "Live" and "Neutral"

(At this point we are ignoring such things as a booster cap or centrifugal cut out switch as these are not present in
Yellow-cad's machine - I'm also stating rpm's without "slip".)

Next a four pole motor :-





This is effectively double what was described above.
So there are two run and two start windings since this now requires 2 electrical cycles to vector a single revolution, this motor will now only turn at half synchronous speed i.e. 1800rpm for 60Hz.

By bringing most of the coil terminals out of the motor we can arrange switchgear to "wire it up" as a 2 or a 4 pole motor by connecting adjacent coil pairs in parallel or series thus making them vector as singles to change the 4 pole wind to an effective 2 poles in operation - hey presto a dual speed motor.

Now we come to Yellow-cad's motor and what I infer from the plate (there are other possibilities) but the manufacturers have indulged in some creative license here.





This is effectively what was described above but I have added in what I can infer from Yellow-cad's motor plate by adding in the terminal numbers.

There is no way to actually "rewire" this via switchgear to a 2 pole configuration - hence my comment on "creative license".

What I think they do is this :-




They turn off one of the start windings (0)

The start winding V2-Z is off so the two run windings V1-Z and X1-Z effectively vector out to the plane of the inoperative start winding V2-Z at right angles to the start winding.

So now the motor runs at 3600rpm but only using 3/4 of its coils - which I think lines up with the motor rating plate of 1 HP or 3/4 HP.

This may also require (or recommended) that you start the motor in "low" (ie 4 pole) range and switch to "high" (pseudo 2 pole configuration) as the starting torque might otherwise be rather poor.

So you need to create a series of switches / relays / contactors to develop the switching as shown.

Before doing that try setting up the various circuit configuration using jumper leads - use a heavy electrical heater (say 1.5kW) as a ballast in case of accidental shorts to minimize the scope of sparks and smoke.

Anyone got any other suggestions ?

You might consider rewinding your motor to three phase and run it off an inverter - you can get more power and much more speed range with full variability. Might be less hassle.

See my thread on uprating my lathe :-

Single Phase To Three Phase Rewind - Lathe Uprate

Regards, Ken


----------



## yellow_cad (Dec 1, 2021)

I now understand that the two high speed swithes must be press down together, but still not sure of the sequence with the low speed forward and the high speed (two switches one buttom). Do I press from off both low speed forward and high speed (two switches one buttom) all together, or low speed until at speed, then the high speed (two switches one buttom)? That is my only lingering question.


----------



## yellow_cad (Dec 1, 2021)

Well, I tried my machine by pressing the low speed forward button and with lathe at speed, I pressed the two high speed switches down as one and the spindle speed actually slowed down slightly instead of increasing any speed at all.  Does this indicate that my high speed winding may be shot?


----------



## Ken I (Dec 2, 2021)

Here's a diagram off the internet showing how you "rewire" a 4 pole to a 2 pole properly.





As you can see it involves bringing out all the winding ends and requires much more complicated switching to do it properly - hence my comment on the "creative" solution on your machine.

This is showing only the "run" winding - the same connections have to be done for the "start" windings - shown unconnected above for simplicity / clarity.

It also shows only series connections - parallel is also possible.

Regards, Ken


----------



## Ken I (Dec 2, 2021)

There is no high speed winding as such, its just a different configuration of the windings by switching - so if it runs fine in low speed it should also work in high. However you could have one inoperative start winding which I'll explain later.

I would presume you press start forward or start reverse - once up to speed you press high.

From your photo and diagram - a single black button (missing) seems to be to operate both switches simultaneously. However the design of the switch suggests that for some other use independent buttons might be used.

I would expect the two "start" switches to be mechanically interlocked so you can't press both at once (that would short out the mains and go bang!).

I would presume that if you hit "stop", the "high" function disengages (relay or latch) to prevent you starting in "high" thus forcing you to start in low and then select high. Selecting high too soon (or instantly) would lead to a very poor start (if at all) and likely an overload trip.

It could be that for "high forward" you switch off the W-V2 start winding and for "high reverse" you switch off W-X2 start winding (or vice-versa) - this would be because the motor is employing odd winds related to the "creative" set up.

Can you get high reverse - but not high forward ? (or vice-versa) if so - given my earlier musings - you could have an open circuit start winding or a break in that wiring / switch.

Other than that its got to be a switching problem.

Work your way through all the motor diagnostics in my earlier post - you can skip the Variac impedance testing as that is unlikely - smoke would have come out already.

Then go through the switch and check that each switch opens and closes as it should.

If you can sort it all out maybe you just need to make yourself a new set of buttons.

Regards, Ken


----------



## Ken I (Dec 2, 2021)

Further musings :-


Ken I said:


> if it runs fine in low speed it should also work in high. However you could have one inoperative start winding which I'll explain later.



That's not strictly true - you could have one of the run windings open circuit (or disconnected / switch problem) and it will start and run in low speed (4 pole mode) - effectively limping along but it will run !

However when you go into 2 pole mode with one of the run poles missing it will slowly stall itself to a halt - or run slower and get very hot very quickly.

Check out the coil continuity at the motor terminals with all wiring removed (take a picture for reassembly).

Regards, Ken


----------



## ShopShoe (Dec 2, 2021)

Ken,

Thank You for a very understandable description. I couldn't foresee the "creative license" that the manufacturer may have put into this. I can see how this type of design would work very well for a motor powering a lathe.

If the motor can be found OK, then it looks like the OP is back to a substitution for the switch, which is do-able. However, In looking at the V10 postings, I see the discussions regarding finding a 3-phase motor and using a VFD. I also see the discussions point out that the motor size and mountings make finding one hard.

yellow_cad,

I don't know your comfort level in all this, but it looks like some advanced troubleshooting is required at this point.

I think, without knowing what that analysis would find, that you are back to creating a substitute for the switch. The latching functions and interlocks incorporated mechanically in the original switch will have to be done through another combination of functions.

Let us know how it goes.

--ShopShoe


----------



## Ken I (Dec 2, 2021)

ShopShoe said:


> I see the discussions regarding finding a 3-phase motor and using a VFD. I also see the discussions point out that the motor size and mountings make finding one hard.


Again - refer my rewinding a single phase to three phase - particularly relevant when changing the motor is difficult.

Single Phase To Three Phase Rewind - Lathe Uprate

Or go through the attachment.

Regards, Ken


----------



## yellow_cad (Dec 2, 2021)

All I can gather since the manual is silent is to start the lathe and run in forward high speed, I would need to first press the low speed forward and once at speed, then push the two high speed switches together as one (since I am missing the button for this).  I was on the lowest gear speed to benefit the motor, but when I did press the two high speed switches, the spindle actually slowed down.

Before I had read that it was apparent that the manufacturer always intended for both high speed switches to be pressed together, I did try to first get it to speed in low forward and then pressing only the high forward switch.  The speed did not increase and in a short time smoke exited the motor area.

I am only guessing, but when I found this lathe/mill 10 years ago it was sitting neglected with mill in the pan so I got things going.  It only had three buttons, forward low speed, stop, and mill.  I could definitely see that with the one button controlling two switches for high speed missing that in the 30 years before I got it, many people may have tried to run high speed with only one of the high speed switches (since the button that pressed two switches together was missing) abusing the motor a little bit each time.

At this point, since I'm not electrically dumb, but it is not my strong suit, I am inclined to be content with low speed only for the lathe and use a free standing motor mag switch to operate the mill motor.


----------



## Ken I (Dec 2, 2021)

Starting to sound like you've lost a winding along the way.

Stick with the low speed if that suits you - but sooner or later its going to turn to smoke - if you then have go to the trouble of having it rewound, you might as well go to the trouble of rewinding it to 3 phase and use an inverter to drive it.

As long as the number of slots in the armature are a multiple of 3 and 4 it's doable - so 12, 24, 36 slots can be rewound from 4 pole single phase to 4 pole three phase.

My own lathe is a joy to use since the conversion - prior to that its underpowered quirkiness was a disappointment.

Regards, Ken


----------



## yellow_cad (Dec 3, 2021)

What is the correct schematic for the switched linked below to run the 1/4 hp mill motor?   Is it just hot wire 32 to 31, and neutral 22 to 21?






						BVPOW Motor Start Stop Push Button Motor On Off Switch with Surface Waterproof Dustproof Box Mount KAO-5H 10A AC 220/380V: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
					

BVPOW Motor Start Stop Push Button Motor On Off Switch with Surface Waterproof Dustproof Box Mount KAO-5H 10A AC 220/380V: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



					www.amazon.com


----------



## Ken I (Dec 5, 2021)

Yes - that just appears to be a two pole switch direct to the motor with one of the leads branching via the capacitor.

Regards, Ken


----------

