# Small Threading Tool



## rake60 (Aug 30, 2007)

_*It had been a while since I cut a thread on the lathe so I decided to play
a bit.  On the way down to the shop I got to thinking about trying to
see how small a thread I might be able to cut.  My threading tool was too
big for anything too small, so I ground a smaller tool.





I started with a 10-32 on brass.  The tool cut fairly well on its first attempt.




The fact that the 10-32 nut screwed on with very little slop was an encouragement.
I have a feeling this will keep me entertained for a while trying to see just
how small I can get it to go.  
In my experience a cut thread is almost always cleaner than any die can make, but 
speed that tool is moving toward the chuck on the small parts is a little unnerving.

Rick*_


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## Bogstandard (Aug 30, 2007)

Rick,
This seems to be a bit of a problem with the more modern lathes. They don't have slow enough spindle speeds. 
They say that you can cut XYZ number of threads on a lathe, but you have to have the reactions of a s**thouse rat to be able to stop the cut in time because of the faster spindle speeds, or you end up with an excessive and out of scale runout groove.
This is the one time when slower is better.
I am looking at a new machine and am thinking of going for three phase with an inverter to run from household mains just because it will allow the much slower cuts to be made by being able to electronically control the lathe speed. 
As you get older, your reaction times get slower,  so thread cutting becomes a chore rather than an enjoyable pastime.
Keep going Rick, lets see how small you can get them.
I did a commission yesterday for a chap in Australia, entailed drilling and tapping sixteen 10BA holes in two small flanges 4mm (5/32") thick. I could hardly see the threads let alone being able to turn them, talk about being 'puckered' up waiting for the tap to break thru.

John


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## tattoomike68 (Aug 30, 2007)

For my smithy they sell a Speed Reduction Pulley for $99 it will slow my machine down to 80 RPM. It looks like something I could build myself though.

https://www.smithy.com/accessories.php?acid=20&aid=98&code=


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## Bogstandard (Aug 30, 2007)

Hi Mike,
80 rpm is still a little too fast, my old lathe with backgear I think gets down to about 25 rpm which is ideal, plenty of thinking time.

John


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## tattoomike68 (Aug 31, 2007)

I know some guys have made a hand crank for the back side of thier spindle. That seem a little bit dangerous unless you unplug the lathe or kill the power at the breaker box.


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## Bogstandard (Aug 31, 2007)

Mike,
Usually the spindle handles are used for turning back the lathe with the half nuts still engaged, this is usually done when cutting metric threads on an imperial lathe that doesn't have motor reverse.
Yes, you do have to be careful when running a lathe with one attached, but the lathe should only be running very slowly because you are thread cutting, but great care still has to be taken.

John


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## rake60 (Sep 5, 2007)

John we are truly from different schools in the threading department.
That's not a bad thing!  What works best for the operator _IS_ best!

When I try to cut a thread slowly I end up with torn or chattered threads.
I had the wife do a video of me cutting a standard 10-30 thread.  
5 cuts in about 1 minute.  Most of that time was waiting for the thread
dial to come to mark.  600RPM cutting brass in this video, but I run the 
same 30 Feet Per Minute surface speed on steel.

Anyway it looks like this:
<embed src="http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Threading.mpeg" autoplay="false" hidden="false" loop="false" type="application/mediaplayer" wmode="transparent" width="350" heigth="425"></embed>
or http://www.rake60.com/photogallery/Threading.mpeg

I tried to get her to bring the camera in closer for a better view, but she
declined.  
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Rick


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## wareagle (Sep 5, 2007)

Rake, that's impresive reflexes!  It it were me, there would be some bent up equipment and less money in the bank  :shock: 

Seeing your video has brought up a question, though.  An old machinist neighbor told me that setting the compound to 29 degrees and using the compound to advance the cutter was the way to go to cut threads.  There is no doubt in my mind that he knows what he is talking about (_he's been around since Henry Ford was in grade school_), and there is is also as many different ways to skin the proverbial cat as there is people doing it.  Rake's set up looked like the compound was at a 90 degree angle to the work in the video.  

What I am wondering is what are the advantages in either set-up?  The 90 degree has both side of the tool cutting, where the 29 degree angle has one side of the tool cutting and the other side "shaving" the piece.  Does this come into play for different materials, is there some sort of witchcraft in one set-up versus the other, or is it just personal preference?


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## rake60 (Sep 5, 2007)

When I thread the compound is at 90 degrees and the cuts are straight in.
It works fine on a small thread.  

Now at work I program the CNC machine to cut a thread and the
computer decides how to best do it.
What it does is feed down the 60 degree angle with each cut.  
eg: for every .005 depth of cut it will shift the tool .0028 to relieve tool 
the tool pressure so it's only actually cutting on one side of the tool.
That's a great advantage when cutting a 8 TPI thread, but when cutting
a fine thread it wouldn't make much of a difference...


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## georgeseal (Sep 5, 2007)

one other thing 

the last .001 or .002 is cut with cross feed to clean up both sides

There are charts that show how much to advance compound for a given depth of thread when it is set to 29 degrees

also there are two depths given if you are using a National Form Tool or a sharp V thead

Atlas  ( Clausing ) still makes a good one

depth of threads is the same for each size IE  1/4-20  or 5"-20

George


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## Bogstandard (Sep 6, 2007)

Hi Rick,
You must have the reflexes of a s**thouse rat. I'd have to have a good caffeine fix before attempting doing it that fast.
I am from the old school where we run slow and easy and set the compound over by half the included angle, putting feed on the topslide. Cutting on the forward face only, and finishing off with a crossfeed input to clean up the back face.
As you said not every method suits every person and wouldn't the world be a boring place if everyone did the same thing.
Do it by what suits you, as long as you end up with the same results, who cares. 
But it is nice to know that at a weekend when you can't get a critical thread die, at least you can still carry on by using the lathe to get the job done.
As far as I am concerned, knowing how to thread on your lathe is a 'must know how to do', and for all the beginners to machining it is a thing that should be tried and if possible, mastered.

John


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## rake60 (Sep 6, 2007)

I agree John!
I think every home machinist should at least try threading on their lathe.
The need will arise at some point.  My own lathe has one short falling in
the threading area.  For a metric thread to maintain the lead you can not
disengage the half nut.  You have to stop the machine back the tool out
and run the chuck in reverse to move the tool back for another cut.
In that scenario I run it SLOW!   :wink: 

My very first threading job on my lathe was making a carburetor mixture
needle for a 1924 Jaeger Hit-N-Miss engine that I've been working on
forever.  The thread was a 5/16-18.  The finished needle ended up 
looking like this.




No I did not thread up to that knob.  I made the needle then attached the
original knob to it.

BTW at work I still stand by my claim that I don't know how to thread
on a manual lathe. So, if any FEMCO personnel are reading this post, that
was my wife running the lathe.  I was just observing her technique.  :lol: 

Rick


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## mklotz (Sep 6, 2007)

You can release the half nuts when cutting metric threads on an Imperial leadscrew lathe IF you move the carriage to the right a distance that is an integral multiple of both the (Imperial) leadscrew pitch AND the (metric) thread you're cutting.  The STICK program on my page will calculate what that distance is.  Sometimes it's a convenient distance and sometimes it isn't.  When it is, this trick saves a lot of time.


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## rake60 (Sep 6, 2007)

Thanks Marv!
I'll be checking that out!

Rick


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## Ken_Shea (Sep 8, 2007)

Here is a compound feed chart for UNC that I made up that may be of use to some of you, need to do a UNF as well.
Did not see how to post the MS Word file so this is just a copy/paste.


Guess I should add that I have not proved all of these so proceed with caution. 

Ken




UNC Threads
COMPOUND set to 29.5 degrees

Cut Depth =.009    Compound In-Feed =10.4  1_64 UNC

Cut Depth =.011    Compound In-Feed =12.7  2_56 UNC

Cut Depth =.012    Compound In-Feed =13.9  3_48 UNC

Cut Depth =.015    Compound In-Feed =17.3  4_40 and 5_40 UNC

Cut Depth =.019    Compound In-Feed =21.9  6_32 UNC and 8_32 UNC

Cut Depth =.025    Compound In-Feed =28.9  10_24  UNC and 12_24 INC

Cut Depth =.030    Compound In-Feed =34.6  1/4_20 UNC

Cut Depth =.034    Compound In-Feed =39.3  5/16_18 UNC

Cut Depth =.038    Compound In-Feed =43.9  3/8_16 UNC

Cut Depth =.043    Compound In-Feed =49.7  7/16_14 UNC

Cut Depth =.047    Compound In-Feed =54.3  1/2_13 UNC

Cut Depth =.051    Compound In-Feed =58.9  9/16_12 UNC

Cut Depth =.055    Compound In-Feed =63.5   5/8_11 UNC

Cut Depth =.061    Compound In-Feed =70.4  3/4_10 UNC

Cut Depth =.068    Compound In-Feed =78.5  7/8_9 UNC

Cut Depth =.076    Compound In-Feed =87.8  1_8 UNC

Cut Depth =.087    Compound In-Feed =100.5  1 1/8 7 UNC  and 1 1/47 UNC

Cut Depth =.102    Compound In-Feed =117.8  1 3/8_6 UNC and 1 1/2_6 UNC

Cut Depth =.122    Compound In-Feed =140.9  1 3/4_5 UNC

Cut Depth =.136    Compound In-Feed =157  -  2_4 1/2 and 2 1/4_4 1/2 UNC

Cut Depth =.153    Compound In-Feed =176.7  All 2 1/2 to 4  4 TPI UNC


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## Ken_Shea (Sep 8, 2007)

This chart is not based upon a particular thread but upon desired depth using a sharp point V type threading tool.


BTW, is there a way to include a file ?

Ken


COMPOUND set to 29.5 degrees
Assumes DIRECT READING DIAL

Cut Depth =.001    Compound In-Feed =1.2
Cut Depth =.002    Compound In-Feed =2.3
Cut Depth =.003    Compound In-Feed =3.5
Cut Depth =.004    Compound In-Feed =4.6
Cut Depth =.005    Compound In-Feed =5.8
Cut Depth =.006    Compound In-Feed =6.9
Cut Depth =.007    Compound In-Feed =8.1
Cut Depth =.008    Compound In-Feed =9.2
Cut Depth =.009    Compound In-Feed =10.4
Cut Depth =.010    Compound In-Feed =11.5
Cut Depth =.011    Compound In-Feed =12.7
Cut Depth =.012    Compound In-Feed =13.9
Cut Depth =.013    Compound In-Feed =15.
Cut Depth =.014    Compound In-Feed =16.2
Cut Depth =.015    Compound In-Feed =17.3
Cut Depth =.016    Compound In-Feed =18.5
Cut Depth =.017    Compound In-Feed =19.6
Cut Depth =.018    Compound In-Feed =20.8
Cut Depth =.019    Compound In-Feed =21.9 
Cut Depth =.020    Compound In-Feed =23.1
Cut Depth =.021    Compound In-Feed =24.2
Cut Depth =.022    Compound In-Feed =25.4
Cut Depth =.023    Compound In-Feed =26.6
Cut Depth =.024    Compound In-Feed =27.7
Cut Depth =.025    Compound In-Feed =28.9 
Cut Depth =.026    Compound In-Feed =30.
Cut Depth =.027    Compound In-Feed =31.2
Cut Depth =.028    Compound In-Feed =32.3
Cut Depth =.029    Compound In-Feed =33.5
Cut Depth =.030    Compound In-Feed =34.6 
Cut Depth =.031    Compound In-Feed =35.8
Cut Depth =.032    Compound In-Feed =37.
Cut Depth =.033    Compound In-Feed =38.1
Cut Depth =.034    Compound In-Feed =39.3 
Cut Depth =.035    Compound In-Feed =40.4
Cut Depth =.036    Compound In-Feed =41.6
Cut Depth =.037    Compound In-Feed =42.7
Cut Depth =.038    Compound In-Feed =43.9 
Cut Depth =.039    Compound In-Feed =45.
Cut Depth =.040    Compound In-Feed =46.2
Cut Depth =.041    Compound In-Feed =47.3
Cut Depth =.042    Compound In-Feed =48.5
Cut Depth =.043    Compound In-Feed =49.7 
Cut Depth =.044    Compound In-Feed =50.8
Cut Depth =.045    Compound In-Feed =52.
Cut Depth =.046    Compound In-Feed =53.1
Cut Depth =.047    Compound In-Feed =54.3 
Cut Depth =.048    Compound In-Feed =55.4
Cut Depth =.049    Compound In-Feed =56.6
Cut Depth =.050    Compound In-Feed =57.7
Cut Depth =.051    Compound In-Feed =58.9 
Cut Depth =.052    Compound In-Feed =60.
Cut Depth =.053    Compound In-Feed =61.2
Cut Depth =.054    Compound In-Feed =62.4
Cut Depth =.055    Compound In-Feed =63.5 
Cut Depth =.056    Compound In-Feed =64.7
Cut Depth =.057    Compound In-Feed =65.8
Cut Depth =.058    Compound In-Feed =67.
Cut Depth =.059    Compound In-Feed =68.1
Cut Depth =.060    Compound In-Feed =69.3
Cut Depth =.061    Compound In-Feed =70.4 
Cut Depth =.062    Compound In-Feed =71.6
Cut Depth =.063    Compound In-Feed =72.7
Cut Depth =.064    Compound In-Feed =73.9
Cut Depth =.065    Compound In-Feed =75.1
Cut Depth =.066    Compound In-Feed =76.2
Cut Depth =.067    Compound In-Feed =77.4
Cut Depth =.068    Compound In-Feed =78.5
Cut Depth =.069    Compound In-Feed =79.7
Cut Depth =.070    Compound In-Feed =80.8
Cut Depth =.071    Compound In-Feed =82.
Cut Depth =.072    Compound In-Feed =83.1
Cut Depth =.073    Compound In-Feed =84.3
Cut Depth =.074    Compound In-Feed =85.5
Cut Depth =.075    Compound In-Feed =86.6
Cut Depth =.076    Compound In-Feed =87.8
Cut Depth =.077    Compound In-Feed =88.9
Cut Depth =.078    Compound In-Feed =90.1
Cut Depth =.079    Compound In-Feed =91.2
Cut Depth =.080    Compound In-Feed =92.4
Cut Depth =.081    Compound In-Feed =93.5
Cut Depth =.082    Compound In-Feed =94.7
Cut Depth =.083    Compound In-Feed =95.8
Cut Depth =.084    Compound In-Feed =97.
Cut Depth =.085    Compound In-Feed =98.2
Cut Depth =.086    Compound In-Feed =99.3
Cut Depth =.087    Compound In-Feed =100.5
Cut Depth =.088    Compound In-Feed =101.6
Cut Depth =.089    Compound In-Feed =102.8
Cut Depth =.090    Compound In-Feed =103.9
Cut Depth =.091    Compound In-Feed =105.1
Cut Depth =.092    Compound In-Feed =106.2
Cut Depth =.093    Compound In-Feed =107.4
Cut Depth =.094    Compound In-Feed =108.5
Cut Depth =.095    Compound In-Feed =109.7
Cut Depth =.096    Compound In-Feed =110.9
Cut Depth =.097    Compound In-Feed =112.
Cut Depth =.098    Compound In-Feed =113.2
Cut Depth =.099    Compound In-Feed =114.3
Cut Depth =.100    Compound In-Feed =115.5
Cut Depth =.101    Compound In-Feed =116.6
Cut Depth =.102    Compound In-Feed =117.8
Cut Depth =.103    Compound In-Feed =118.9
Cut Depth =.104    Compound In-Feed =120.1
Cut Depth =.105    Compound In-Feed =121.2
Cut Depth =.106    Compound In-Feed =122.4
Cut Depth =.107    Compound In-Feed =123.6
Cut Depth =.108    Compound In-Feed =124.7
Cut Depth =.109    Compound In-Feed =125.9
Cut Depth =.110    Compound In-Feed =127.
Cut Depth =.111    Compound In-Feed =128.2
Cut Depth =.112    Compound In-Feed =129.3
Cut Depth =.113    Compound In-Feed =130.5
Cut Depth =.114    Compound In-Feed =131.6
Cut Depth =.115    Compound In-Feed =132.8
Cut Depth =.116    Compound In-Feed =133.9
Cut Depth =.117    Compound In-Feed =135.1
Cut Depth =.118    Compound In-Feed =136.3
Cut Depth =.119    Compound In-Feed =137.4
Cut Depth =.120    Compound In-Feed =138.6
Cut Depth =.121    Compound In-Feed =139.7
Cut Depth =.122    Compound In-Feed =140.9
Cut Depth =.123    Compound In-Feed =142.
Cut Depth =.124    Compound In-Feed =143.2
Cut Depth =.125    Compound In-Feed =144.3
Cut Depth =.126    Compound In-Feed =145.5
Cut Depth =.127    Compound In-Feed =146.7
Cut Depth =.128    Compound In-Feed =147.8
Cut Depth =.129    Compound In-Feed =149.
Cut Depth =.130    Compound In-Feed =150.1
Cut Depth =.131    Compound In-Feed =151.3
Cut Depth =.132    Compound In-Feed =152.4
Cut Depth =.133    Compound In-Feed =153.6
Cut Depth =.134    Compound In-Feed =154.7
Cut Depth =.135    Compound In-Feed =155.9
Cut Depth =.136    Compound In-Feed =157.
Cut Depth =.137    Compound In-Feed =158.2
Cut Depth =.138    Compound In-Feed =159.4
Cut Depth =.139    Compound In-Feed =160.5
Cut Depth =.140    Compound In-Feed =161.7
Cut Depth =.141    Compound In-Feed =162.8
Cut Depth =.142    Compound In-Feed =164.
Cut Depth =.143    Compound In-Feed =165.1
Cut Depth =.144    Compound In-Feed =166.3
Cut Depth =.145    Compound In-Feed =167.4
Cut Depth =.146    Compound In-Feed =168.6
Cut Depth =.147    Compound In-Feed =169.7
Cut Depth =.148    Compound In-Feed =170.9
Cut Depth =.149    Compound In-Feed =172.1
Cut Depth =.150    Compound In-Feed =173.2
Cut Depth =.151    Compound In-Feed =174.4
Cut Depth =.152    Compound In-Feed =175.5
Cut Depth =.153    Compound In-Feed =176.7
Cut Depth =.154    Compound In-Feed =177.8


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## Lew Hartswick (Oct 5, 2007)

Ken , Is that for a "sharp V" tool or with the spect. flat tip?
I ask because the 16 tpi we do a lot of at the school about 40 is where 
the nut fits .The tools have a small radius on the tip (not realy measured).
   ...lew...


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## Ken_Shea (Oct 6, 2007)

Lew,
That is a good question that needs clarification, the answer which escapes me at this point in time, I wrote a small basic program some time ago to print this out and do not recall. It likely was (at the least, intended) for the sharp point threading tool since that is what I use,  but now you make me wonder on my math. I will look into it and reply back.

Ken


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## Ken_Shea (Oct 6, 2007)

Lew and others interested,
The chart above is for the sharp V type threading tools.

As with most any threading, when you are getting close to the final cut  it is always good practice to check for fit with the nut to be used. You can have a perfectly formed thread and then find the nut is over/undersized,  which is not all that uncommon.  


Ken


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## rake60 (Oct 6, 2007)

Ken have you ever bought a nut or bolt that would not fit a standard 
matching piece?   
If you have please send it to me along with any information you can 
provide about it's origin.

Thread standards has for the most part eliminated that.

My very first job out of tech school was in a dying factory known locally
as "The Screw Factory"  The pay was low.  The machines were
archaic and the employee safety factor was ZERO!  But, the pride of the 
workers was paramount.  Every piece worked as it was intended EVERY
TIME!  

To find an out of tolerance nut or bolt in even the cheapest of hardware
stores would be a rare occasion.  

As I have already said the CNC machines I run are programmed to cut a 
perfect thread.  With all the perfection of a computer guided machine it's 
not uncommon to have to off set a tool .020 deeper to achieve a class
4 fit on a thread.  

The computer, program or calculator will tell you your wrong, but the 
hardened steel gauges never to test the "Go / No Go" fit were made long
before the integrated circuit.

Rick


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## Ken_Shea (Oct 6, 2007)

Rick,
Not sure what your intent is in your reply, but it sounds argumentative, if not essentially calling me a liar. It is these pompous replies to post that so turn people off, I joined for enjoyment and to learn and perhaps share.
Not to be whacked in my first couple of post. I bet you are a member of PM  aren't you.

Who are you trying to kid with words like - "eliminated", "Every piece, EVERY TIME, " programmed to cut a 
perfect thread. "

That's laughable, and what will you say next, ZERO rejects?

Any way, who needs mean spirited criticism, life is too short.


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## rake60 (Oct 6, 2007)

NO!
I wasn't saying that!

I'm getting into trouble here tonight!
My point is threading is a hands on art.
There is NO perfect answer.
It is a skilled craft that any determined home machinist can master.
I apologize if it was taken as an attack!!!!!!

Of course there were rejects in the shop I worked for when I first got 
into the marching business.  But those parts were REJECTED!
At that time in 1979 they were worth about 12 cents a pound.


Rick


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## lugnut (Oct 7, 2007)

Ken, youre out of line here.  What Rick is trying to say is, Have you ever gone to Ace hardware and bought ½ nc nut that would not fit ANY !/2 nc bolt in the store?  OF coarse not, wake up.  Now if you insist in making your own with your own method or what ever------Yes your going to screw up some times, so what???  Get over it and make a new one.  You are not going to be able to tell every one how to make perfect nuts and bolts with your charts or what ever.
Rick would not ever call someone a liar!  Maybe call you out for a little more argument, but not call you a liar.  Now listen up!  We do not want to start the petty BS that the some of the other forums seem to thrive on and I for one will not put up with it here.  STOP  
Mel


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## Bogstandard (Oct 7, 2007)

I have to put my two pence worth in here, and then hopefully everything will be kiss and make up. 
I support both sides.
I have bought nuts and bolts that were not up to standard, even to the stage of no threads on either bolts or nuts. But as far as I am concerned this is a quality control issue, not a manufacturing one.
Ricks argument is that he is a good machinist and quality control was his priority, enough said. 
But there are manufacturers, especially from the far east who don't take quality control as an issue, they are just after production. So you can end up with rejects in your little bag from the harware store.
When I was in mass manufacturing, we had what was called the 2% rule.
In theory if a bag should contain 100 items, all should be good, but you were allowed to have 2 missing or bad items, but on the other hand if you put 103 all good items in a bag you could in theory be prosecuted, but no one ever complained about that.
So please gents, we are all grown men here, both of you have very valid points. 
And to reiterate what Mel has already said, LEAVE IT AT THAT!!!!


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## bob ward (Oct 7, 2007)

Bogstandard said:
			
		

> This seems to be a bit of a problem with the more modern lathes. They don't have slow enough spindle speeds.
> They say that you can cut XYZ number of threads on a lathe, but you have to have the reactions of a s**thouse rat to be able to stop the cut in time because of the faster spindle speeds, or you end up with an excessive and out of scale runout groove.
> This is the one time when slower is better.



When cutting fine threads into a shoulder, is there a downside to turning the tool upside down and running the lathe in reverse? Assuming the lathe can be safely used in reverse of course.


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 7, 2007)

Well guys I did it . I finally tried the up-side-down and backwards threading method. Out side of having to take the lathe apart and put it back together it worked pretty well. I ground a little tool similar to ricks out of a 3/16 blank I then set it on top or a second blank to help with tool hight. 
I used the 7 x 10 which is not real rigid anyway and it has a A2Z  cnc QC tool holder so light cuts are in order anyway. IIRC the slowest speed on the lathe is around 100rpm so doing the pack nuts for an Elmer's engine with 3/16 worth of 10-32 thread does not take long per pass. I would not even try threading into the shoulder on this. I usually use a die for something like this but decided it was a good time to try the single point tool . 
Jim

PS the disassembly of the lathe had to do with overdue PM. The threading project just brought the need to light. It was not the cause.


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## Bogstandard (Oct 7, 2007)

Hi Jim,
There is a slightly easier way to do thing things like this especially the reversing bit when the lathe speed is too fast.
Basically two methods.
If you are cutting fine threads, low leadscrew speed, then a handle locked up the a*** end of the mandrel (with the motor belt disconnected). Then you can turn as slow or fast, fwd/rev as you like. There are many designs on the net and one could easily be made.
For cutting coarse threads, fast leadscrew speed, then a handle on the end of the leadscrew is used to turn the lathe, again with motor disconnected. Many lathes have them fitted as standard.
The reason for the two different methods is that when cutting coarse threads the strain on the drive train is very high (I think this is what caused the failure of the drive train bolt on my lathe a couple of weeks ago), so by driving from the leadscrew the pressure is taken away.
OK both will be slow methods, you can stop, go and have a cup of coffee half way thru a cut and come back and carry on, but you can try all your prototyping and wierd setups in true safety without the fear of mashing your lathe.
I will be using the second method when I come to do some more ornamental turning.

John


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