# Water Cooled Webster



## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

I guess this thread started over in the Questions and Answers back in August. This will be my 7th engine and my first IC so Ive decided on a Webster . . . sort of. 
On the web site (http://home.comcast.net/~webster_engines/) I saw that the first Webster ran on January 3rd, 2004. After 10 years it would be interesting to find out just how many Websters there are in the world.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

Ive been going over the plans and doing it up in CAD for a couple of months now and I start to think that with the Webster its whats on the inside that counts. As long as these parts and their relationship to each other is maintained, thats all that really counts.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

The size and style of the flywheel, frame, and the cooling, I just dont think matter much. It says right on the web page Very forgiving design - no super-critical dimensions. Technically this could work.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

One of the things I noted on the web page under Cons: was.
_*Limited run time due to inadequate cooling*, but I kinda figured this going into it. This engine was never meant to run 24/7, just the occasional smoke, fire, and noise show for friends and family... well, OK, me. Needs more and / or larger cooling fins, a fan, *or possibly a water jacket on the cylinder*. Not a major issue and certainly one that's easily resolved by thermally isolating the carb_.
Going into this with the philosophy that ignorance is bliss. Im going to try for water cooled Webster. As long as I can keep the relationship of the basic components the same its still a Webster, just in a pretty dress. Just might see how forgiving the design really is. 

Ive got over 60 meg of files (most of them now useless) sitting on my drive so I think its time to stop drawing pictures, and start making some chips. My game plan is to push the edge on my skill levels on this and do the things Ive always admired on other engines as well as try and do one part each day. Ill see how that works out.
Im going to start with the water jacket. For my skill level its going to be the most completed bit of machining I think Ive done. 
I starting with a 1 lb 7 5/8 oz. lump of aluminum and squared it up in the mill.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

I cut it down to size in the 4x6. I must get that slide in slide out chip tray Hat56 mentioned to me back in the Q&A mounted under this thing before my wife notices the floor. The _Cut Off This End_ is because I didnt bother square up that face.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

Did a little rough layout on the sized block. I know a lot of people dont but for me its just thinking out loud. Then set it up in the 4 jaw


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

After drilling, drilling, and more drilling out to ¾, I changed to a 5/8 boring bar to get it out to 1.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

To cut the recess for the water jacket I found a small piece of stellite and ground it so I could plunge cut into the interior. Its defiantly time for a cleanup.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

After turning it over to put a shallow round on the back I moved it over to the mill to hog out the tank.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

To round off the bottom I put a piece of 1 bar through the block then its just rotate, clamp, mill, and repeat.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

I just cleaned up the bottom of the block on my belt sander. Im pretty happy with the way it turned out but I cant decide to start cleaning the shop with the Shop vac or a shovel.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

Im pooped, Im happy and my wife is telling me theres this thing upstairs called supper
Hey. Home shop weight loss program. _Lose 1 lb a day without dieting or excursive!_


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## Swifty (Jun 21, 2014)

Nice going Bob, I will follow along with great interest.

Paul.


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## bmac2 (Jun 21, 2014)

Thanks Swifty
Ive been watching your Nemett Lynx build. Good looking engine.


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## johnmcc69 (Jun 22, 2014)

You're off to a great start Bob! Looking good.

John


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

This part is cut and paste from the Q&A. http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f26/webster-engine-question-22718/
Following a tip I picked from Garry (gmac) out in the sunny Okanagan the cast iron cylinder liner is starting out pretty humble beginnings. $5.00 at Walmart for 5 lb of cast? I thought it was worth the risk.


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

Spent a little quality time with the 4x6 and 45 minutes later . . .


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

Cant see any voids and it looked pretty consistent. Not that I know what its supposed to look like. Ive got a Chinese milling vise I wish looked that good.


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

Did a cleanup cut just to see how it would come out and it was hard to get a good finish on it but as Paul (Swifty) pointed out back in Q&A 
_Bob, you will find that it will always be hard to get a good finish on cast iron due to its grain structure. Even if you polish it, the surface will always have pits in it. Of course, the better the quality the smaller the pits are_.


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

Back to the here and now. Took the OD down to 1 and started boring out the cylinder.


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

Flipped it around and zeroed it in the 4 jaw. Ah close enough. Oh yes . . . Happiness is a 4 jaw chuck and 2 keys. 
_Hi. My name is Bob, and I use to be afraid of my 4 jaw chuck. Then I made a second key_


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

Crap that stuff gets everywhere! Ill be another hour cleaning the lathe. But the cylinders cut to length and cleaned up. Tomorrow Ill try lapping it and see how it goes.
Apparently I have this stuff in the yard called _Grass_ and it doesnt stop growing just because I want to play in the workshop. 
Stupid photosynthesis


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## hedgehog (Jun 22, 2014)

very nice build.


but ill say if my old shop teacher caught me with one chuck key in  I would have been wrapped on the back of the hand.  I dont want to think what he would have done to me if he seen that set up


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## hedgehog (Jun 22, 2014)

also great idea on the cast iron.  what is the diameter of the handle area?


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 22, 2014)

Nice work, great photography and very well documented!! The forum needs more builds like this. Excellent!!----Brian Rupnow


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

hedgehog said:


> very nice build.
> 
> 
> but ill say if my old shop teacher caught me with one chuck key in I would have been wrapped on the back of the hand. I dont want to think what he would have done to me if he seen that set up


 
Hi Hedgehog
My dad would have done more than that, he was old school. 
Its ok though all main to the bench are dead when I was setting up a chuck. Keep the key next to the switch.
The iron was a tip I got from Gmac. I took a ruler with me when I went to Walyworld. The 5lb weights ranged from around 1 to 1 ¼. They had them from 3lb to 40lb at about a buck a pound. If I remember correctly the 40 pounder was just shy of 1 1/2. With a lot of cutting the ends could be used for flywheels.


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## bmac2 (Jun 22, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Nice work, great photography and very well documented!! The forum needs more builds like this. Excellent!!----Brian Rupnow


 
Wow, thanks Brian
I had and old Kodak Easy Share and it has lived in the shop since I joined the forum. I take pictures of everything now just out of habit. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words. And hell I like the builds with LOTS of pictures. 
I think one of the things I like best about your builds is that youre not afraid to show your mistakes. I learn a lot from this.


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## bmac2 (Jun 23, 2014)

Well lapping didn&#8217;t happen. I just hand reamed it (as in while in the lathe turn the chuck by hand) and gave it a couple of lite passes with a hone. The bore looks pretty good so I&#8217;m going to leave it for now. Sorry I forgot to take any pictures. It didn&#8217;t take much time and wasn&#8217;t very interesting. Just imagine this thing spinning and sliding up and down in the cylinder. ;D


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## bmac2 (Jun 23, 2014)

The frame went a lot faster than I thought but then in hindsight theres not much to it really. I saw the way Chuck Fellows used trimmed down angle for the frame of his Bessemer Hot Tube Oil Field Engine (now called something else but I cant remember) and I like the look so I decided to use it here. With the two side frames glued up and bolted tougher I cleaning up the saw marks and got it to size.


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## bmac2 (Jun 23, 2014)

Here Ive removed the bolt and milled out the gap then back into the mill to cut the angle.


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## bmac2 (Jun 23, 2014)

That done I clamped the cylinder block to the side frames to scribe the radius for the front piece.


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## bmac2 (Jun 23, 2014)

This is my quick and dirty setup for the rotary table. I have a plug thats a slide fit into the center hole then just hold it in the vice. Milled the radius . . . . well its close I can clean it up with a file.


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## bmac2 (Jun 23, 2014)

The cylinder block is held to the side frames with two 2x56 screws (for now) coming up from the bottom of the frames. I didnt take any pictures, its nerve racking enough drilling small holes through 2 inches of aluminum thats ¼ thick.


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## bmac2 (Jun 23, 2014)

My wife keeps says it looks like a cross between a meat grinder and a sleigh! 
Damn  she might be right. Paint it red and I could put Santa in the back.


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## Swifty (Jun 23, 2014)

Don't worry Bob, women don't seem to have the same appreciation of the skill and labour that goes into our projects. My wife's usual comment is "that's nice and shiny".

Paul.


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## bmac2 (Jun 25, 2014)

Oh it was a banner day in the shop today. Decided to do the piston next and had a short scrap of square aluminum so I got it setup in the 4 jaw. Once it was down to the right diameter I setup up my poor mans DRO for cutting the ring groves.


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## bmac2 (Jun 25, 2014)

To cut the groves I ground a small tool so I could just make a straight plunge cut.
Ya. . . . Nice. . . . . 
Ok, anyone out there thats familiar with the Myford ML7 lathe will recognise that in the first picture something bad is about to happen. For those who may read this and are not familiar with the Myford ML7 Ill explain. Thats the Tumbler Reverse Lever. It controls the power feed and should be in the middle position when the power feed is not being used. Hence the second picture with the extra wide, _slightly_ irregular ring slot in the piston.


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## bmac2 (Jun 25, 2014)

Ive heard it said that _anything worth doing is worth doing twice_ or something like that. 
All righty then, piston 2.0


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## hedgehog (Jun 25, 2014)

been there done that.  nice looking piston in the end.


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## bmac2 (Jun 26, 2014)

hedgehog said:


> been there done that. nice looking piston in the end.


 
Thanks Hedgehog
I think this might be the only place where you can find a group of guys that are looking at pictures on the internet and saying _nice pistons_ and be talking about _pistons_.Rof}


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## bmac2 (Jun 26, 2014)

I was going to go with Viton rings but everyone is making cast iron so I thought Id follow the crowd and give making cast iron rings a go. After all what else do you do with half a leftover dumbbell? Saw a tip on the internet that said to put a magnet under a paper towel helps control the mess when turning cast and gave it a try. I have one out of an old hard drive hidden under there and it didnt catch everything but I must say it did help.


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## bmac2 (Jun 26, 2014)

Going with everything Ive read on making rings for small engines, and having never tried it before, I needed 2, so I made 5.


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## bmac2 (Jun 26, 2014)

Piston 2.0 with its 5 little friends. I made the disk in the front with a recess the depth I need for the rings. Ill just hot glued some sort of handle to the other side so Ill be able to clean them up with some wet and dry.


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## bmac2 (Jun 26, 2014)

Hum, could be worth a try. Ive had dumber ideas


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## danstir (Jun 26, 2014)

I think you need to make the tool holder a magnet too.


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## bmac2 (Jun 26, 2014)

There is a proverbial ton of excellent information on this site especially with all the Nemett Lynx builds going on right now. And Im probably going to use then but. Back in the Q&A part of this adventure in chip making Kquiggle out of Michigan sent me a good link with info on making piston rings.
https://sites.google.com/site/lagadoacademy/useful-links#misctools


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## bmac2 (Jun 26, 2014)

"Make piston rings easily" caught my eye. Though unconventional it did look a lot easier and if it doesnt work . . . . I can just make new ones. 

http://users.tpg.com.au/agnet/make%20piston%20rings.html

Please dont shoot the messenger. I said at the start of this I was going to try new things and push the envelope



http://youtu.be/7oTV_0On_SU


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## bmac2 (Jun 26, 2014)

Well 2 are crap. Total eggs but the other 3 . . . . . dont look bad
On the website I got this from it says to split the ring and have it hang on to a piece of metal the same thickness as the required gap. When the ring reaches the correct temperature it will just fall off and to let it _cool slowly_. He was making a much larger piston ring and using a much wider torch. As it shows in the vid I wasnt getting exactly what I would call even heating and with these small rings I really dont think they have enough thermal mass to keep them from cooling too quickly. 
Hay It didnt take long and it was sort of fun to try. Will these work? Im not going to hold my breath. Worst case . . . spend $5.00 on another dumbbell. Or go with Viton . . . na.


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## Mechanicboy (Jun 27, 2014)

Thick piston ring is not good idea. 
The formula to make the pistonring: 

Bore diameter / 25 = Pistonring thickness 
Pistonring thickness = height of pistonring 
Pistonring thickness x 4 = ring gap (mount the distance bit in the ring gap before heating up piston ring between 2 thick disk with bolt/nut to prevent distortion the ring by heat.)

It will give good compression and easy to mount on piston ring groove. Do not cut the piston ring, break off only due cast iron is fragile. Adjust ring gap with needle file to correct size due heat of expansion. In my engine ring gap is 0.02 mm when ring is mounted in the sleeve.


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## bmac2 (Jun 27, 2014)

Mechanicboy said:


> Thick piston ring is not good idea.
> The formula to make the pistonring:
> 
> Bore diameter / 25 = Pistonring thickness
> ...


 
Hi Mechanicboy
I have no idea what I was thinking when I made those. Their too thick to even fit the piston groves. Im not sure if it is the material I started with of the heat treating but the rings just break like grass. Thanks for checking in on me, I will be making some new rings.Thm:


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 27, 2014)

Rings should be made from grey cast iron. The method used in the second link, where the rings are wedged open with a piece of material and then heated singly until the wedge falls out is given in "The shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos." However the formula given for determining ring size is a bit complicated--you have to incorporate the thickness of the slitting saw used to slit the rings into the formula for the ring diameter. I fought quite a battle making rings over on my thread "Nemett Jaguar--Canadian Style". I lost, and had to resort to a Viton ring, but will try again. You might pick up some useful information on that thread.--Brian Rupnow.


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## Mechanicboy (Jun 27, 2014)

Here is the link.. http://www.jerry-howell.com/PistonRings.html

Slitting saw is too coarse, better to break off. You can use cast iron from brake disc or old cam shaft as piston ring material.


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## bmac2 (Jun 27, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Rings should be made from grey cast iron. The method used in the second link, where the rings are wedged open with a piece of material and then heated singly until the wedge falls out is given in "The shop Wisdom of Philip Duclos." However the formula given for determining ring size is a bit complicated--you have to incorporate the thickness of the slitting saw used to slit the rings into the formula for the ring diameter. I fought quite a battle making rings over on my thread "Nemett Jaguar--Canadian Style". I lost, and had to resort to a Viton ring, but will try again. You might pick up some useful information on that thread.--Brian Rupnow.


 

Hi Brian  Ive been following your build and I too may have to go with Viton but Im going to go with a tried and true method this second go round. I may try to copy that carb.


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## bmac2 (Jun 27, 2014)

Mechanicboy said:


> Here is the link.. http://www.jerry-howell.com/PistonRings.html
> 
> Slitting saw is too coarse, better to break off. You can use cast iron from brake disc or old cam shaft as piston ring material.


 

Jens  Thanks for the math and the link. I like the method Swifty used, breaking the rings on a taper. Ive got a friend that teaches automotive at the local technical collage that owes me a favor or two. I think its time to give him a call.


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## Swifty (Jun 27, 2014)

Bob, I feel that one great benefit of breaking the rings on a taper is that they will break at their weakest point. This could save a broken ring problem later. I realise that the cast iron should be homogenous and you should be able to break it anywhere with no weak points, but why take the risk.

Paul.


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## Mechanicboy (Jun 28, 2014)

How to break off piston ring? The picture tell more than i can write.


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## bmac2 (Jun 29, 2014)

Damn Jens Ive seen that before. Just cant remember where


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## bmac2 (Jun 29, 2014)

Not much done today. The head is pretty straight forward and follows the original Webster plans (well, except its round) just drill, recess, and tap. I then used the head as a jig to drill through the cylinder and into the block


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## bmac2 (Jun 29, 2014)

Tapped the holes in the block and opened them up to clearance size in the head and cylinder and milled a flat spot for the manifold.


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## Mechanicboy (Jun 29, 2014)

bmac2 said:


> Damn Jens I&#8217;ve seen that before. Just can&#8217;t remember where



See after the list "Making piston rings" and find "Feeney" in this link: http://www.modelenginenews.org/techniques/index.html 

With thin piston ring:

1. Less friction on cylinder wall.
2. Easy to assembly/disassembly the piston ring on the piston.


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## bmac2 (Jun 29, 2014)

Back to the block and frame. Im not looking forward to this next step but cant think of a way to put it off much longer. Those two little 2-56 cap screws are not going to hold this together so my plan is to braze it.


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## bmac2 (Jun 29, 2014)

I have a ton of experience with aluminum, as in I did it once. Ok. Technically twice resulting in one successfully brazed part, and one melted blob of aluminum. With everything clamped up and the MAP at the ready . . . . Im wondering how much it would cost me to get someone to do this for me. But its Sunday and the long weekend . . . .


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## bmac2 (Jun 29, 2014)

Sorry no pictures of the fire show. I had one torch just aimed through the cylinder hole in the block and another to apply more heat where I was working. It came out pretty go (for me). The only bad blob is up on the inside where it cant be seen. I bashed it a couple of times and nothing broke so I happy. Cleanup with a file and a little Bondo and paint it should be fine.


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## Swifty (Jun 29, 2014)

I was feeling a bit nervous when I started to read about you brazing it together, but it all came out fine. I have seen the aluminium brazing rods demonstrated at various shows, but have never purchased any. It appears that they work very well.

Paul.


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

Hi Paul
*YOU* where nerves! 
It would not have been a good time for the Doc to be checking my blood pressure. I think I used up almost all of my small scraps of aluminum and 2 rods before I got up the nerve to do it. The stuff does work though if you follow the instructions, like I did the second time I tried it. 
You have to use a stainless steel brush to clean everything. I tried a steel brush once and things did not go well. 
Hey I have scraps left


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

It does not work with acetylene (too hot?) but propane and map are recommended. One of the problems I have is keeping everything lined up. Its not like I can slap a big magnet on the parts and clamps act like heat sinks.



http://youtu.be/oB_TfY9uLIY

I'm doing something wrong. How do you get the YouTube video to show up in a posting?


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

The connecting rod has to be split or its not going onto the crank. This means I have to make a split bushing for the big end. I also want an oil hole in it so bolting from the back isnt going to work. This is what I came up with.


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

I got started on the connecting rod by milling a blank down to size.


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

After a little scratching and a lot of checking to make sure I had this right in my head I got the blank mounted in the vice at 150 deg. Milled .4440 off the top then spotted, drilled, and counter bored for the two #4x40 screws.


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

Now that I have the feeds and speeds figured out I really like using a slitting saw.


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

Tapped the holes as deep as I could go with the 4x40 tap, I want as much screw as I can get here.


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

Cleaned up and screwed tougher I drill out the holes that mark the radius for the big and small end of the rod.


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

The radius holes are also used to set the angle to mill the rod to width.


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## bmac2 (Jun 30, 2014)

With that done I finished up the rod by rounding of the ends on the rotary table. A little more cleanup needed but all thats left is to ream the two ends to size. Tomorrow Ill have to tackle the split bearing. 
All for today. Germany vs. Algeria starts in an hour and that damn grass just wont stop growing. :rant:


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## bmac2 (Jul 1, 2014)

For the bearings I have some bronze bushings with the correct ID. I picked these up at Princess Auto a while back in their surplus section. Bag O bushings for 6 or 7 dollars, I cant remember now but I could see 2 I wanted at the time and thought Id use the rest someday. I centered it in the 4 jaw indicating off of the inside. Sorry its a bit out of focus.


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## bmac2 (Jul 1, 2014)

As I started to true up the end I realised this was an Oilite bushing. Ill have to go with hard brass. Didnt take any pictures. I set it up in the 4 jaw, drilled it undersized (Ill ream them after everything is together. The plan is to basically make 2 bearings and mill half off.


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## bmac2 (Jul 1, 2014)

Luckily they both finished spot on .75 so no funky decimal points to get the center.


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## bmac2 (Jul 1, 2014)

Its not that I dont trust digital calipers but when I want to be sure Im getting an accurate measurement I use a micrometer. I do trust these calipers. My old cheepo set . . . . That would have to be a separate thread.


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## bmac2 (Jul 1, 2014)

I actually spent a lot of time trying to decide how to hold these in the vise. Im not sure why. Used a test indicator to make sure the bearing was sitting in the vise correctly and marked the top with a felt pen.


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## bmac2 (Jul 1, 2014)

Brought the head down until the cutter just scratched off the ink and zeroed my the Z axis.


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## bmac2 (Jul 1, 2014)

Milled .375 off the two bearings and they finished up at what I would have to call a firm slide fit. Im planning to fix them into place with something like Permaseal bearing retainer. If theres something better please let me know. Once thats done I can drill the oil hole and ream the bushings to final size.


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## hedgehog (Jul 1, 2014)

thanks for doing such a  great job documenting your build.  great job.


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## bmac2 (Jul 2, 2014)

Hedgehog, thank you very much
Are you getting any of the rain out there, or is that just hitting the two guys between us?
I like lots of pictures in buildsth_wwp. This is my first crack at an IC engine. And I _have_ deviated just a bit from the original Webster, I still contest as long as the basics guts stay the same the rest of it is like a Hollywood western (don't get me started). When I started this I thought that if I document everything, when I screw up (_please see piston rings_) someone will jump in and help me out. So far its working great.Thm:
Thanks again. This can be a weird ass hobby that few understand. Its nice to be able to share.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 2, 2014)

Bmac2--Check your mailbox---Brian Rupnow


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## tms6401 (Jul 2, 2014)

Excellent pics and write-up. It's nice that you have a sense of humour as well ... something that comes in very handy in this hobby.


tms


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## bmac2 (Jul 2, 2014)

Thanks tms6401 glad to have you checking in

Woo Hoo! 

I have the day off and Im supposed to stain the deck but my wife is telling me it going to be too hot (28c) youll have to find something else to do today. Dont argue happy wife, happy life and all that.
My buddy came through with a piece of cast so _something else_ is going to be another crack at piston rings. Got the ?? whatever it used to be machined down and bored it out to .805. Then parted them off .035 thick. I put a rod in the tailstock just so I wouldnt have to go chasing them around. The funny looking one in the middle is where there was an O ring.
Thanks again to Mechanicboy, Brian R. and Swifty (Paul) on this


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## bmac2 (Jul 2, 2014)

And here they are. 8 shiny new little round razor blades. The one at the bottom is from the first failed batch. Almost twice as thick.


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## bmac2 (Jul 2, 2014)

I broke one trying to tab it down on the taper. This is the rig I came up with to split the rings. The M3 taper has a hole for a drawbolt so with a bushing just larger than the ID of the ring I could just slowly tighten the bolt until I heard/felt them crack.


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## bmac2 (Jul 2, 2014)

This is my under engineered feat treating jig. Simple but I think it should work.


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## bmac2 (Jul 2, 2014)

I concentrated the flame (MAP) as much as I could on the ends of the fixture thinking that I would get more even heating and a slower cool down.

Oooo. Should have brought some Marshmallows


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## bmac2 (Jul 2, 2014)

I had the same problem Brian Rupnow ran into that the stack stuck tougher and I broke another one trying to pry it loose. The solution I came up with (that worked) was to put the stack on the horn (pointy end) of my little 10lb anvil and rotate it while _gently_ tapping it with the handle of an X-acto knife. Just have to clean them up a bit with some wet and dry, Oh. And make a new piston


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## Swifty (Jul 3, 2014)

Looking great Bob, hope that they work well.

Paul.


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## bmac2 (Jul 3, 2014)

Thanks Paul me to.
Is there a HMEM record for the number of pistons made for a single cylinder engine?
I think that trophy is _Mine_! Piston 3.0


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## bmac2 (Jul 3, 2014)

I wanted to go with a counter balanced crank chiefly because I like the look and thought it would be challenging to build one. After modeling it in CAD (easy) I was faced with the reality of figuring out the setup steps involved in machining one (not so easy) Ive decided to go with the basic built up crank. This will be my second crack at a full crank? Double webbed crank? Closed web crank? Anyhow cut a couple of pieces of 5/16 cold rolled for the shafts and started work on the webs. I thought I had some ¼ by ½ bar stock but didnt. What I do have is some 3/8 by 5/8 so I just milled it down to size.


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## bmac2 (Jul 3, 2014)

I glued the 2 pieces together to assure that the holes will be parallel and evenly spaced


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## bmac2 (Jul 3, 2014)

Placed the short length of 5/16 in the tailstock chuck and used that to rough align the piece in the 4 jaw. Then leaving the short shaft in the hole dialed it in to center.


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## bmac2 (Jul 3, 2014)

Faced off the .031 of both sides then hit it with a torch in the garage to separate the two parts.


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## bmac2 (Jul 3, 2014)

Against my better judgment I tried this coated 1/32 brazing rod the guy at the welding supply store said was _Just as good as silver solder_ and half the price.


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## bmac2 (Jul 3, 2014)

AAarg.:wall:
I should have just used silver solder. I think the problem I had was with temperature but I was using acetylene. Ive brazed before, usually with decent results just heat on one side stick on the other, but with this I just couldnt get it to flow. Added some flux and that helped but man what a mess. I might have to take a mulligan on this one.


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## bmac2 (Jul 3, 2014)

Well after a lot of cleanup I think it salvageable. Looks like I got penetration through to the other side. Really should have practised on some scrap before using that rod. I have a few scratches but nothing terrible where the bearings will run and it runs true when checked with a dial indicator.


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## Swifty (Jul 4, 2014)

What a bummer Bob, I don't think that brazing rods have the same capillary action as silver solder. This ability is needed to flow into small gaps.

Paul.


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## bmac2 (Jul 4, 2014)

Hi Paul. 
The crank was probably ok but for the amount of time and material it takes, making a new crank won out. Did another buildup and this time just silver soldered it and trimmed it up on the band saw. It still needs to be cleaned up but Im happier with it. 

The more I played with the crank the more I understand why most of the You-Tube videos Ive seen of a Webster running its clamped to the bench. If this thing ever runs thats a decent hunk of mass being thrown around. I was leafing through the Nov.2012 Model Engineer and saw that the crankshaft used in the Nemett Bobcat and Jaguar engine have a bolt on counter weight. I can do that. After reading a couple of articles off the web I calculate that Id need to add about 40 grams to the webs. If my math is right this works out to give or take ¼ slice of 1 ½ cold rolled. 

Like the drawing? I do use CAD for most everything I make except my lunch but sometimes all you really need is a pencil.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 4, 2014)

Bob--Go over and look at the counterbalances added to my crankshaft in the Nemett Jaguar--Canadian style. This was not my original design, but it certainly does work well, and doesn't interfere with how you make the crankshaft.-Whoops--Just re-read your last post and I see that you have it already.--Brian


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## bmac2 (Jul 4, 2014)

Hi Brian. Hey thanks for the e-mail
Ah. Page 14. I saw the screw holes in the drawing for the crank on page 10 but must missed the picture on 14. In the Nemett Bobcat article is the same thing a bolt on half disk with a notch to fit the webs.


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## bmac2 (Jul 4, 2014)

I started the counter weight by putting a small recess in the face of the weights then parted it off ¼ thick


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## bmac2 (Jul 4, 2014)

The way I use to setup a thin piece of stock for facing is to get it snug in the chuck but sitting proud of the jaws. then with the tail stock Jacobs chuck opened all the way use it to press the disk into the chuck. Then faced the back.


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## bmac2 (Jul 4, 2014)

I have to cut this disk in half and the _Center Square_ in the front is more of an About the Middle Square so on a 1 ½ inch disk I used a ¾ parallel to mark it out. Thought of a couple of ways I could cut this and in the end decided to just screw it down to a piece of scrap and cut it in the band saw.


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## bmac2 (Jul 4, 2014)

It went Pac-Man on me when it broke but didnt grab the blade.


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## bmac2 (Jul 4, 2014)

I then milled out the ½ inch notch (actually .498 ) for a good press fit on the webs then spotted and drilled them #50 tap size.


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## bmac2 (Jul 4, 2014)

Setup the crank in the vise and used the counter weights as a jig to start the holes in the webs. Drilled and tapped the webs 2x56 then opened up the holes in the counter weights to clearance size and countersunk then for the screw heads. It may not be perfectly balanced but it&#8217;s a heck of a lot closer than it was. The disks where relatively simple to make so it would be easy enough to add or remove a little weight later if I want to. Worst case I could just take them off and be back to stock. I don&#8217;t think I&#8217;ll take them off . . . I like the look. 

Basic crank = http://youtu.be/t7JqF8euBK4

With counter weights  = http://youtu.be/HNWK42qVMkU


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## ShopShoe (Jul 5, 2014)

That's another way to make a crank I wouldn't have dreamed up. Thanks for posting that.

--ShopShoe


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

Hi Shopshoe 
With all the Nemett Jaguar builds going on I cant believe I missed it but it sure makes counter balancing easy. Your Avatar looks a lot like the shoes I have in my shop. Hell on floors but great on ice.


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

I cant really do anything more if I dont get this thing bolted down to the base plate. Ive been putting it off because I couldnt decide exactly what I wanted. In the end I decided to just go a piece of ½ in aluminum 3/16 larger than the engine. Its a bolt on part so if I change my mind Ill make something else and use this as a drilling jig.


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

I messed up when I laid out the two front holes. Id forgotten about the two 2x56 screws that I used to hold the block to the sides before brazing so I just moved them down ¼ inch. Hey, if its a screw-up on the bottom, and no one will ever see it . . . I can live with that.


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

Now that things cant move around I can get on to the bearings caps. Milled the blanks to size and clamped them in place, then drilled and tapped 4-40.


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

It took a while to get this setup in the mill and Im still not sure its 100%. I could be here for weeks. With it packed up I drilled and reamed the holes for the bearings ½ in.


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

With a length of ½ inch rod in the bearing holes and the engine sitting on the Chinese Tombstone I checked it with a height gauge. It is out a bit but I think I can correct it by putting a small shim under the left hand bearing. This is why I buy feeler gages when I see them cheap.


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

Well the alignments good but I did have to put a small shim under the one bearing.


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

I couldnt resist putting in the sparkplug.


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## bmac2 (Jul 5, 2014)

AAaaah Crap! 
Now it looks like Snoopy :rant:


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 6, 2014)

You are going to have to bolt that thing down to run it, or it will walk all over the table on you. You should have left the baseplate 1/2" longer at each end for a pair of 3/16" holes at each end. I generally screw my engines down to the test bench.---Brian


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Hi Brian
Ya this is just to hold things in alignment so I can continue working. I have no illusions of my _balanced crank_ will have it running smooth as silk. I was eye balling a rather nice 4 ½ wide length of 5/8 hot rolled I spotted in the garage yesterday. Im thinking if its about an inch or so longer than the engine with its weight and a piece of tool box liner under its bum, it just might not go walkabout on me. Going to see if I can get the manifold knocked out today. When I dont know what Im doing its good to know I have a couple of guys looking over my shoulder that do.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

While the rest of the engine was making an oily mess of my bench I got to work on the manifold.

P.S. Special thank you to Brian. Cant remember which engine it was but great tip not to stand in front of the open spark plug hole when running in an engine with a cylinder full of oil. Remembered this at the last minute and you saved my shirt.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

I started by laminated the 3 layers of ¼ in aluminum that make up the manifold and squared it up bringing it to the size shown in the Webster drawing. The thing at the other end of the vise jaws is a failed attempt at a step block. It just didnt turn out the way I wanted but the darn thing comes in real handy some days.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Laid out and drilled the 4 bolt holes tap size, and step drilled the center up to 9/32.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Swapped the drill chuck for the EM holder and used a 3/8 end mill to do the 1/32 counterbore. Flipped it over and counterbored the other side.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Numbered the 3 layers with a Sharpie and split them apart. By laminating the 3 pieces and drilling the holes to the smallest common size I can now move the top block to the bottom and the bottom block to the top so the 1/32 counterbore is on the inside and as long as none are flipped or rotated I know the holes will stay in alignment. Put some small witness marks on the pieces and opened the top and middle bolt holes #43. Reamed the centre hole of the middle block to 5/16 and tapped the 4 holes in the bottom block #2-56 Then bolted it together. At this point the intake and exhaust ports are 11/64, Ill open them up to the full 3/16 once I have the valve guides ready.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

I generally dont like to buy these things because I never use them. But some days I have weak moments and Princess Auto got my $3.95. But this time Im sure my valve springs are in there somewhere.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Was ready to start on the valves and couldnt tighten the bolt on the tool holder. Stripped down the compound slide and saw that the shank was sheering up through the bolt head. I guess the 56 years of reefing on it took its toll. 

Cleaned it up as best I could and took it out to the garage to braze it. The brazing looked great and it feels solid but Murphys Law dictates that if I make a replacement now the weld will hold forever, if I dont it will fail catastrophically.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Well it didnt take long and its sort of the same shape as a valve. Into the spare parts bin.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Ok, back to the valves. I remember making the valve rod on my Elmer's Oscillating Cylinder Engine. What a nightmare, 1.375 long and only .086 in diameter.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

After completely failing at 3 attempts to make it I found an article on step turning small parts. 
http://modelenginenews.org/techniques/stepturn.html
I indicated the .25 tool steel in the 4 jaw chuck and took it down to about .1 in ¼ inch steps.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

When I was within a couple of thou I blued it and just rested the lathe file on it to find the high spots.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Then I lightly honed the cutter in place and ran it back and forth just touching the surface until it was down to size. Cut the 45 deg. On the end and parted it off
To drill the #60 hole for the retainer spring I first put a small flat on the valve shaft with a 1/16 end mill. Wow, in that picture it looks like the bit is in the chuck half sideways.


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

The valve guides are pretty straight forward just following the Webster plans. I must confess that for the taper on the guides I just used a file. I have to say that making the spring retainers was pure joy after doing those valves. If anyone knows of an easier / faster way of making valves please chime in. 
Oh ya. In that bad O springs I found some with the correct wire gauge and the right length for the intake and exhaust. $3.95 well spent.Thm:


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## bmac2 (Jul 6, 2014)

Lapped the valves to the seats and got the valve block assembled.

Its done and I'm pooped.


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## bmac2 (Jul 7, 2014)

In most every wright up Ive read on a IC engine build it has poor compression due to the valves leaking so I made this quick little adapter so I can connect the valve block to my compressor.


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## bmac2 (Jul 7, 2014)

WOW! I cant believe it! They leak. Ok, more fiddling and lapping seems to be in order. Sorry no picture. Just imagine the picture above, but connected to a compressor and air leaking out of the block.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 7, 2014)

I found that I needed to add a thin gasket between all 3 blocks to stop leaking.--otherwise, you can not tell if the valve is leaking or if the air is blowing between the blocks.


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## bmac2 (Jul 7, 2014)

Good idea Brian.
I spent most of my allotted shop time lapping and retesting the valves and they seem good but yes the whole block is leaking.
I made up full set of gaskets for all the mating surfaces


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## bmac2 (Jul 7, 2014)

A quick bolt up and now its got some compression and the intake valve does jump when I turn the crank.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 7, 2014)

bmac--I never had much luck with copper gasketing either. I use a treated paper gasket material about .025 thick. The water cooled engines never get hot enough to burn it away.


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## bmac2 (Jul 8, 2014)

I can't put it off any longer I have to start on the flywheels. I just dont like making flywheels. Its probably that anything Ive made other than a small solid ones always wobble. 
I could go with the hockey puck flywheel shown in the plans but I did promise this thing a pretty dress so I want spokes.


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## bmac2 (Jul 8, 2014)

This is going to be a built up flywheel because . . . . . I want to, and if I mess up part of it I wont have to start from scratch. 
Itll have the outer rim, spoke insert, a ring to hold it all tougher, and a two part screw tougher hub.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 8, 2014)

Use brass or steel for the outer rim. Aluminum isn`t heavy enough.---Brian


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## bmac2 (Jul 8, 2014)

Hi Brian
I plan on only using aluminum for the spokes for ease of machining and its what I have. Ive got steel for the rest of it. It will be lighter than the stock Webster but then again there will be 2 of them.


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## bmac2 (Jul 10, 2014)

*Change of plan*.:idea:
Doing a little more research on built up flywheels I found a pretty good posting by Cedge here at http://www.homemodelenginemachinist....p?topic=3169.0 describing a Philip Duclos article on manually machining curved spoke flywheels with just a milling machine and a rotary table. Unfortunately its from 2008 and the pictures are gone. 

One of my go to sites on the web when I need to make a tool or just want to look around is Dean Williams http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/projects.html. If you have a Taig or one of the other small machines out there you _must_ check out this site.

I remembered he'd made curved spokes on one of his engines. Lucky for me Building the Tripod Steam Plant was near the top of the page so I didnt even have to search. Read the article a couple of times and though Deans flywheels are only 1 and mine are going to be just shy of 4, I decided with a jig this was doable. One advantage I have is where Dean says "_got out some of my old drafting tools_" I use my CAD. This might take a while. My couple weeks of _do nothing_ vacation is over. Work really interrupts my Machining and Hiding in the Basement time.


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## bmac2 (Jul 10, 2014)

It looks like I used a Spirograph but this is what I came up with for the milling/drilling template. This is either going to be great, or be like my first set of piston rings. As long as I dont break anything and theres no blood, its all good. 
*Caution* this might get a little verbose.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 11, 2014)

Do you realize that your "Webster" engine is morphing into a "hit and miss" engine. This is a picture of my "Odds and Ends" hit and miss engine designed by Philip Duclos. Same style, same carburetor/exhaust arrangement, same long rocker arm arrangement. All you would need are the flywheel mounted weights and mechanism for the governor.----Brian


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## bmac2 (Jul 11, 2014)

Hi Brian

If you where to put your *Odds and Ends* in a room with your *Kerzel Hit and Miss*, add soft music and a bottle of wine (Coleman fuel?) for the night it would come pretty close. Rof}

I did said wanted to try things Id seen on _other_ engine.


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

I picked up the X, Y coordinates for the reference holes off the CAD drawing using the origin as X-0, Y-0 and transferred them to a spreadsheet. Made the template from some more or less 1/8 plate I had around. Started by mounting the rotary table using a slug I made up that is a very close slide fit into the center hole of the table.


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

I have a ¼ centre hole in my work plate so I made up a drop in plug that gave me a 3/32 pivot pin. Drilled a 3/32 hole in the centre of the plate and mounted it to the work plate. 

The size, shape and positioning of the plate doesnt matter as long as its bigger than the spokes because everything is referenced from the center point.

I then drilled the 26 reference holes using the X, Y coordinates. This is one of those times when I have to tell myself that even when it doesnt look right to trust the numbers. This plate has two purposes in life, as a drilling guide for the 1/8 and ¼ clearance holes, and the 3/32 holes that act as centre points for the inner and outer radius of the curved spokes, and inner rim.


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

I had to blue it up and scratched some lines just to reassure myself of which holes did what. 
(Love that sentence; I can just see my old English teacher having a fit)

Sort of reminds of a field trip to the planetarium. Constellation Fuge Rotæ ?


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

I got the 2 blanks for the spokes cut from a peace of 3 ½ aluminum and trued them up in the lathe drilling a 3/32 centre hole. The plan was for these to 3/8 but I messed up one of my cuts on the band saw so 5/16 it is.


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

Aligned the blank to the drill jig using a 3/32 drill bit and drilled the holes using the plate as a drilling jig. Then opened the clearance holes to 1/8 and ¼.


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

Mounted the blank to the top of the jig using two 3/32 bits to ensure things are lined up and its ready to make some chips


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

With a 1/8 end mill I started with what will be the outside radius of the spoke by putting the pin in the bottom (what Ive been thinking of as) radius hole and set the X offset to 1.1875. From here its just a matter of running the milling cutter between the two 1/8 holes that mark the beginning and end of the arc then moving to the next hole in the plate.


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

Mounted the plate to the top radius hole, set the X offset to .5646 and did the inner radius of the spokes.


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## bmac2 (Jul 12, 2014)

For the last bit I put the centre hole on the pin, set the X offset to 1.5 and did the inside of the rim.


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## bmac2 (Jul 13, 2014)

Well that was easy, on to my second set of spokes. I realised while making the first set of spokes that drilling the 3/32 holes in the blank cut in to the spokes just a bit. Ill have to fill them with some JB Weld before I clean them up. For the second one I shortened the 3/32 centre pin to just under 1/8 and only drilled the centre hole, the 1/8 and the ¼ holes in the blank.


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## bmac2 (Jul 13, 2014)

I got the cleanup on the spokes done. Starting with a rotary file in a flex shaft then finished them up with some emery shoe shine style.


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## bmac2 (Jul 13, 2014)

I didnt want to take them down to a polished finish. My hope is that once painted they will have the look of a casting.

I must say so far Im very happy with the way these turned out.

Got to go . . . Word Cups going to start *beer*


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## bmac2 (Jul 14, 2014)

I got started on the rims today. I had a piece of 3 ¾ seamless steel pipe with a 3/8 wall that looked promising so I took it out to the garage and cut it down on the 4x6.


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## bmac2 (Jul 14, 2014)

The pipe has some sort of greenish coating (paint?) and it stinks under the heat of the cutter but with the window exhaust fan on high my wife didnt notice so all is good. I dont know exactly what this stuff is but it machines like butter. Whatever they use it for Im guessing they have to thread the ends... Bored out the inside to 3 ½ .580 deep to take the spokes and a ring.


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## bmac2 (Jul 14, 2014)

The step will become the ring that going to sandwich the spokes into the middle of the outer rim.


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## bmac2 (Jul 14, 2014)

I tried to put a lot of thought into the _order of operations_ here to get as much as possible done in one setup. The spokes and the ring are a good press fit so Im going to let the Loctite cure before I drill out and ream the centre hole and part it off. The recess in the middle will be blended into the outer rim later.


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## bmac2 (Jul 17, 2014)

Once things cure up I drilled and reamed the centre hole to ½. The hub will be made in two pieces screwed tougher with Loctite. I might pin it but I dont think it will need it.


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## bmac2 (Jul 17, 2014)

In the Webster plans it says to pin the flywheel and drive gear to the shaft with roll pins. I just dont like this idea. Searching around on the Internet Ive seen people using a taper lock hub. I like this idea, Ive got ½ to play with and basically its just a collet.


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## bmac2 (Jul 18, 2014)

Well I ended up being a 6 part flywheel but I must say Im happy with the results.


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## bmac2 (Jul 18, 2014)

The collets lock very solidly on to the shaft and I do like the look.


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## bmac2 (Jul 18, 2014)

The cherry on top is that these have turned out to be about the straightest flywheels Ive ever made with only 3 thou of run out and no visible wobble


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## Hat56 (Jul 19, 2014)

bmac2 said:


> I cut it down to size in the 4x6. I must get that slide in slide out chip tray Hat56 mentioned to me back in the Q&A mounted under this thing before my wife notices the floor. The _Cut Off This End_ is because I didnt bother square up that face.


Putting the rails in under the saw is the easy bit, Getting the roasting tray out of the miss's kitchen is the challenge.


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## bmac2 (Jul 19, 2014)

Hi Hat !
Thanks for checking in. I was starting to think I was talking to myself out here. Actually getting the trays turned out to be easy. We were in Costco and they had a set on sale. All I had to do was talk about how some of the old ones where looking scratched up. Oh and pay for the new set. :wall:
But that expense _DOES NOT_ come out of my hobby budget. Rof}
The forecast is for rain all day so I cant do a lot of the regular home maintenance chores today. This engine is getting so close to the finish line I just cant decide if I should play in the shop or the garage. The tray shouldnt take more than a couple of hours scratch.gif


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 19, 2014)

You are not posting in a vacuum. I am watching, along with many others. I know how you feel though. I post about all my builds, but about 2/3 of the way through the build, everybody who has something to say has already said it, and you start to wonder if people are looking at your stuff or not. You are doing an excellent job. The flywheels turned out beautiful---I however prefer a more heavy industrial look. That is the one really great thing about model engineering--You get to build to suit your own personal taste. You are doing a super job, keep up the good work.---Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 19, 2014)

Bmac--Here is an old post from 2010 that you may find interesting.
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/th...e-redesigned-as-quot-Hit-and-Miss-quot-engine


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

Brian thank you that&#8217;s quite the compliment. Ya the little engine is starting to look a lot like my original CAD file other than it had straight spokes. Once I get some paint on it even if I can&#8217;t get it to run at lest it will look good as a display model. 
Hell it&#8217;s a Webster It&#8217;s got to run.


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Bmac--Here is an old post from 2010 that you may find interesting.
> http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/th...e-redesigned-as-quot-Hit-and-Miss-quot-engine


 
Nice governor. I love engines with lots of stuff flailing around. Ive read that post some time ago but it must have been before I joined the forum, didnt recognise your name. I had toyed with the idea of putting a governor on this but its my first IC so Im keeping all my mods cosmetic. This way if I want a hit and miss I have to make another one.


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

I got to spend most of the day hiding in the shop and got a lot done. I didnt even have to make anything twice. 
I love it when it rains. 
The Webster plans call for a 48 tooth cam gear and a 24 tooth drive gear. I dont have those and Im not going to tool up to cut gears right now. Looking at the specifications what I need is one gear with an OD of .75 and another with an OD of 1.5 that will give me a 2 to 1 ratio. 

What I have is a 36 tooth and an 18 tooth gear. I just have to machine them down and move the mounting position of the cam gear back just a bit. 

The pic is from the Martin Sprocket & Gear web site. The one I have has no set screw. The hub on the 18 tooth gear is .625 with a .3125 bore so all that was needed was to turn the hub to .5 and thin the gear face down to size. I used a piece of 5/16 rod in the tail stock to help me keep it aligned when putting it into the chuck.


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

The 36 tooth has a 1 inch hub with a .375 bore


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

Machined off the hub and silver soldered in a piece of hard 3/8 brass. Mounted it in the 4 jaw indicating off the now 3/8 hub and drilled and reamed it out to ,25 and trimmed it down to size.


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

The cam is straight off the Webster plans. This is the first one Ive ever made but it was actually pretty straight forward using the rotary table on the mill. I forgot to take any pictures of the setup.
I remember reading a Webster build where the guy just marked it out and used a belt sander.


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

I decided to let it run in a bit more. Ah hell, I just wanted to watch it spin with the flywheel on. On the up side, I forgot to take out the spark plug and my run in motor wont turn it over with it in.


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

Heres a tip. If you ever build a Webster do the Ignition Cam and the rocker arm last. What a treat. For the Ignition Cam its just a matter of drill/ream the 5/16 hole and part it off. Then put it in the mill and take off .0556 to form the flat. Im sure this could be done with a file and some simple layout lines. Then just drill and tap for the setscrew.


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## bmac2 (Jul 20, 2014)

The rocker arm is just as per the Webster plans and straight forward. I got it milled out and cleaned up, Ill drill it tomorrow.


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## bmac2 (Jul 21, 2014)

Well it looks like a have an entire day left to my own devices. 

A while back I realised that with the shape of the frame it wasnt going to be practical to use the flat rocker arm spring from the Webster plans. After some thinking I came up with a small trigger spring and I think it actually makes for a cleaner look. Still have to drill and tap the end of the rocker for the tappet, cut the rod to length and decide on some sort of a retainer.


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## bmac2 (Jul 21, 2014)

Got the points mounted. Just lined them up and drilled and tapped the holes. Damn this thing is getting close to needing some gas. 
Its been a fast build. Amazing what you can do with a couple of weeks of do nothing vacation to waste, and a little OCD. 
I think Im starting to burn out a bit, I get like a dog on a bone with these things some times.


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## gbritnell (Jul 21, 2014)

Hi Bob,
First I must apologize for not commenting earlier on your excellent build but have just gone back through the whole thing and am now going to add my 2 cents worth. 
Your redesign of the Webster has turned into more of 'your design' and that's great. I really like how you have solved problems along the way, especially when you were making your piston rings. The flywheels turned out great. The curved spokes really set it off from the crowd. 
All in all this is turning out to be a great build both from the design to the documentation. 
Thanks for all the hard work.
gbritnell


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## bmac2 (Jul 21, 2014)

Wow gbritnell. Thank you and no apology necessary. I love your engines. That Ford 300 is amazing, I want one! just Im nowhere near that level.

As Brian put it some days it does feel like posting in a vacuum but when I think about it all it really means is that I havent done anything terribly wrong that day. When I am screwing up (please see piston rings) someone will jump in and politely steer me in the right direction.
This is where I start to worry about the lynch mob. :hDe:
I absolutely love the simplicity, ease of construction, versatility, and forgiving nature of the Webster design, but as my dad (a WWII guy) would have put it it looks like something made by the Russians. Id modeled the Webster in CAD well over a year ago with plans to start one but every time I looked at the drawings Id start changing things just a bit until it morphed into what I have here. _A Webster in a pretty dress_.

Hum. That could make an interesting thread. When does it become your design?


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## gunna (Jul 23, 2014)

Hi Bob,
As Brian said, don't for one minute think that you are "talking to yourself". That applies to all the other regular posters/builders here too. So many of the rest of us read everything that you all post and generally just look on in awe thinking, jeez I wish I could do that. You are right of course that if you do stuff up, there will be plenty of comment, but hey, that's what forums like this one are for.

Ian.


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## bmac2 (Jul 23, 2014)

I feel like I should say Dont Try This At Home

OK. Things that won't work. 
1 - Never use a small rubber O-ring to hold the rocker arm in place. 
2 - Do not hold a Tarno Carburetor (from a Cox .049) in place with Teflon tape


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## bmac2 (Jul 23, 2014)

But . . . aerodynamically bumblebee can't fly. 
Its great not knowing what Im doing. If I screw up I dont know and just go ahead anyway. woohoo1

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bL6kr5PRLw&feature=youtu.be[/ame]


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## bmac2 (Jul 23, 2014)

Well this was a little unexpected I was just going to see if it would make a couple of pops 
Im not even sure what to say here.

Special Thank you out to Paul (Swifty), Jens Eirik (Mechanicboy) and Brian Rupnow for helping me get through the piston rings.
Everyone that dropped a note of encouragement along the way, and the guys over in the Q&A section.

But before this thread turns in to a _chick flick_, Im going to go out to the garage, mix up some more fuel and giggle like a school girl.Rof}


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## Swifty (Jul 23, 2014)

Congratulations on a runner Bob, I will have to put one on the "to do" list. It's exciting getting an engine that you made yourself to run.

Paul.


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## Cogsy (Jul 23, 2014)

Congrats on a runner. Looks great and starts really easy too. I still use electric drills to get my engines running.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 24, 2014)

Very good job. Congratulations.---Brian


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## bmac2 (Jul 25, 2014)

Cogsy said:


> Congrats on a runner. Looks great and starts really easy too. I still use electric drills to get my engines running.


 
Thanks guys.
Starting it was one of the things that drove me to take it out to the garage. It was really starting to gnaw at the back of my neck ever since I got the flywheels mounted. I only have around 1/8 of shaft sticking out beyond the collets and I didnt want to have to mess up the look of the engine by adding anything. Im very impressed with the cast rings, more luck than anything I did I think. Not much drag spinning the flywheels with the spark plug out and a nice solid PoP with it in. The needle valve on the carb is very touchy with only around 1/8 of a turn between running and dead.
It does feel great being my first crack at an IC, and it run better than I ever could have expected. Now all I have to do is _STOP_ playing with and get it finished before I break something.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 25, 2014)

I find that it takes about 6 weeks before you quit playing with it after you get it running before you start thinking about building something else. Do you have any idea of how incredibly lucky you were to get that thing to go almost on the first try? The world if full of little engines similar to yours, setting up on shelves, that have never run!!! Their owners (mostly first time engine builders) got so frustrated from trying to start them and not having any success, that they polished them up, set them up on a shelf, and the engines have never and will never run. You did a great job and you are a very lucky fellow.---Brian


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## Hat56 (Jul 26, 2014)

Top job mate and congratz on a first time runner.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	



 As per Brians post I am one of those with a runner on youtube "Thompson engine" and a on & off the shelf "Brass T" that I'm trying to get running. It fires and dies ,fires and dies:wall: but so help me  it WILL run.

 Now that, that little project is finished maybe a chip tray for the saw.




> He might be slow but by god he's rough   he he.


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

Hat56 said:


> Top job mate and congratz on a first time runner.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

I got to say I love those collets on the flywheels. They run sweet and true and adjusting the timing is a snap. 

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRATGJJHMj4&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

The water jacket work. Longest run so far was 14 ½ minutes until it ran out of fuel. 

Temperatures Celsius (Fahrenheit) 
Block  67.2 (153) 
Water  49.4 (121)
Carb  35 (95)
Manifold  39.4 (103)
Head  44.4 (112) 
[/FONT]


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

Ok enough, if I strip it down Ill have to stop playing.
Digging around in a parts bin I have full of those fascinating little bits they make computer hard drives out of (ever looked at those castings?) I came up with a small C clip that will fit the shaft for the rocker arm.


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

Back at the start of this I said _its still a Webster, just in a pretty dress_. Well the lady needs a hat . 

To cap off the top of the tank I started with a piece of 3/8 aluminum just slightly bigger than the tank.


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

Brought the sides in 3/8 of an inch, 3/16 deep with a 3/8 round nose end mill.


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

Then using a 1/8 end mill cut out the ½ square hole in the middle.


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

Super glued the lid to the top of the tank as a guide and drilled through #50 going about ¼ into the block.

Tapped the holes in the block then opened up and countersunk the holes in the top.
I have a gross of ¼ flat head stainless 2-56 screws so thats whats going in to hold it all tougher.


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

I just used a file to bring it to size and blend it in to the tank.


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## bmac2 (Jul 26, 2014)

Its funny how the extra 3/8 of an inch in height seems to balance the look. My original plan was to fill the holes covering the screw heads but now that I see it Im not sure.


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## johnmcc69 (Jul 26, 2014)

That is beautiful Bob! Nice touch with the cover.

  John


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## bmac2 (Jul 27, 2014)

Thanks John
The top of the tank really helped the look of the engine. Ive been pushing my limits on this and sometimes looking at the engine I have one of those _holy crap .I built that?_ moments. I think all I have left is the exhaust pipe, trim the flywheels to blend in the spokes and come up with a fuel tank, then its down to Bondo and paint.


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## bmac2 (Jul 28, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I find that it takes about 6 weeks before you quit playing with it after you get it running before you start thinking about building something else. Do you have any idea of how incredibly lucky you were to get that thing to go almost on the first try? The world if full of little engines similar to yours, setting up on shelves, that have never run!!! Their owners (mostly first time engine builders) got so frustrated from trying to start them and not having any success, that they polished them up, set them up on a shelf, and the engines have never and will never run. You did a great job and you are a very lucky fellow.---Brian


 
Hi Brian
I dont think anyone can be as surprised as I was when the engine actually started. I was fully envisioning putting a nice paint job on it and having it sit on the shelf as an interesting case study in the do's and don'ts of hobby engines.

That Tarno Carburetor is off a Cox .049 and it funny how for an engine as small as a .049 the book says to open the needle valve 2 1/2 to 3 turns, Id almost given up when I decided to turn it in all the way and back it out ¼ turn at a time starting at 1 thats when it gave up its first fart. As things turned out it likes to start at about ½ turn and then back it off the tiniest bit to running. It only gives me about 1/8 turn from too rich or too lean. The throttle valve, to use a quote _forget about it_. Although closed all the way it does make for a decent choke.

I followed all the work yourself and Chuck where doing recently on model carburetors and will be leaning on it soon I think. But hey thats what makes these forums so great. 

Thanks again for all the support.


----------



## Brian Rupnow (Jul 28, 2014)

The Chuck Fellows carburetor works really good on the Webster, and is by far the easiest one to build.


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## gus (Jul 28, 2014)

Hi Bob,

Looking forward to see your engine spinning.
Your workmanship and finishing is first class.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 28, 2014)

gus said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Looking forward to see your engine spinning.
> Your workmanship and finishing is first class.


Gus--You are late for the show--He has already posted a video of his engine running.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bL6kr5PRLw&feature=youtu.be[/ame]


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## bmac2 (Jul 28, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> The Chuck Fellows carburetor works really good on the Webster, and is by far the easiest one to build.


 
Hi Brian
Sounds like a good suggestion. If I remember correctly from your carburetor comparison video the Chucks carb did work well on the Webster. Im not terribly concerned with about throttle response the Webster is not exactly a performance engine like the Nemett Jaguar.


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## bmac2 (Jul 28, 2014)

gus said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Looking forward to see your engine spinning.
> Your workmanship and finishing is first class.


 
Hi Gus
Thanks for the complement.
Ive been watching your Rotary Table build its looking good. Are you sure you want that deep sea rod holder?  Ive seen _Shark Week_ on the Discovery Channel and to this prairie boy it doesnt look like a good idea.
If you want to see the smoke and spin show I have a couple links to Youtube vids up on page 20, posts 191 and 200.


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## bmac2 (Jul 28, 2014)

Brian how the heck do you get the videos to preview in the post? I know you gave me the info to post from Photobucket but Ive had nothing but nightmares with Photobucket ever since my old laptop died,  my new one has Windows 8. I think Windows 8 could turn the most powerful laptop in the world into a nice tablet. :wall:


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## SixSixSevenSeven (Jul 28, 2014)

bmac2 said:


> Brian how the heck do you get the videos to preview in the post? I know you gave me the info to post from Photobucket but Ive had nothing but nightmares with Photobucket ever since my old laptop died,  my new one has Windows 8. I think Windows 8 could turn the most powerful laptop in the world into a nice tablet. :wall:



Windows 8 makes no difference to whether photobucket works or not... Personally in my experience its never worked anyway, whenever I've needed to share a photo online I've either used that forums native attachment system or imgur


From windows 8 using google chrome I've already posted a plain youtube URL straight into the post and the forum has exchanged it for an embedded video instead.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 28, 2014)

I have no problems with Photobucket. For Youtube, just go to Youtube and start your video playing. While it is playing, highlight the address bar at the very top of the page, and press control C on your keyboard, or left click on the highlighted address bar and select COPY from the pop up menu. Then start a post on the forum, and press controlV or right click and select PASTE from the pop up menu.---works perfect.---Brian


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## bmac2 (Jul 28, 2014)

It looks like it was a problem with Explorer or the settings in Explorer. So installed Chrome and give it another go.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMPDTTco0as[/ame]

The only interesting thing about this video is that the engine slows down dramatically when I get tazered by the spark plug and doesnt speed up no matter what I do until it zaps me again. At the time, I was using the metal banding on the work bench as a ground. Funny that I had no trouble at all finding a CM-6 plug but when I ask around for a boot to fit it the counter guy always looks at me like Ive grown a third eye.


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## Cogsy (Jul 29, 2014)

bmac2 said:


> The only interesting thing about this video is that the engine slows down dramatically when I get tazered by the spark plug


 
Not only is it interesting, it's also quite funny . Seriously though, I'm glad I'm not the only one who gets my fingers too close to the spark plug, repeatedly. Those 4 little AA batteries (that's what my ignition uses anyway) pack a decent punch when you're not expecting it.


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## gus (Jul 29, 2014)

bmac2 said:


> Hi Gus
> Thanks for the complement.
> Ive been watching your Rotary Table build its looking good. Are you sure you want that deep sea rod holder?  Ive seen _Shark Week_ on the Discovery Channel and to this prairie boy it doesnt look like a good idea.
> If you want to see the smoke and spin show I have a couple links to Youtube vids up on page 20, posts 191 and 200.



Hi Bob,

Last March 2014,used a 5 lb live Trevelly as bait, 100 pounder took the bait and we brought up the surface only to see it broke the leader line. In Burmese waters,it is catch and release. Rebaited twice and hit again by something that took off and never come back. Shimano Deep Sea rod/reel and my DIY rod holder stood to the severe test.

I like the putt putting roar of your engine and a very steady beat. Some time later will run the Webster now on my computer desk. Will be another two weeks before the Nemett-Lynx can do its very first roar.
Take care.


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## bmac2 (Jul 29, 2014)

Cogsy 
Try it hooked up to a battery charger *club*


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## bmac2 (Jul 29, 2014)

Between work, family, and the yard I havent had much hobby time but I did manage to get the exhaust done. I decided to go with the stock salami cut pipe. 
I have a stash of 3/8 rods salvaged from printer head guides, this stuff machines beautifully and polishes like chrome.


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## bmac2 (Jul 29, 2014)

Laid out the angle and milled it off.


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## bmac2 (Jul 29, 2014)

This was one of those slam dunk parts except for cutting the angle. Its basically a thin tube so I had to hold it gently in the vise to and take light cut as it had the feel of wanting to grab.


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## Mechanicboy (Jul 30, 2014)

bmac2 said:


> That Tarno Carburetor is off a Cox .049 and it funny how for an engine as small as a .049 the book says to open the needle valve 2 1/2 to 3 turns, Id almost given up when I decided to turn it in all the way and back it out ¼ turn at a time starting at 1 thats when it gave up its first fart. As things turned out it likes to start at about ½ turn and then back it off the tiniest bit to running. It only gives me about 1/8 turn from too rich or too lean. The throttle valve, to use a quote _forget about it_. Although closed all the way it does make for a decent choke.



The fuel in Cox engine and other glowplug engines is running on methanol while your engine is running on gasoline with difference fuel amount. It is methanol who is a poor energy (low calories in methanol, about 5000 calories against gasoline who has about 10 000 calories) and need more fuel to run the engine.


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## bmac2 (Jul 31, 2014)

Didnt get anything built today so I thought Id pass along my adventures in trying to find a coil. In my area a new coil runs $50 - $60 and I just wasnt willing to drop the cash on an engine I wasnt sure would ever run so I went off looking for a used one. Now to be honest I dont think Ive been to a wreckers in 20 years and I guess the business has changed. I went to four auto wreckers and got the same response at each one. When I asked the guy at the counter for a coil hed ask me whats it for?  I would try to explain that I didnt care just any 12v coil. I was then told that they couldnt help me without a part number. I dont know if this is how they operate now or the quality of staff they can get, but I dont know how they stay in business.
At the risk of sounding Old Guy I use to walk in with a part wrapped in a shop rag and say got one of these? response Let me look. . . (wait). . . No but these will work
One of the reasons I think I get to spend so much time in the shop is that I will volunteer to drive when my wife sees a quilting show in a nearby small town she wants to see. My only caveat is that:
*A*  I dont have to go in. 
*B* - She has to buy me lunch. 
On one of these little trips on a whim I asked the guy at the gas station if he had any coils. After explaining what it was for and showing him the pictures I had on my I-pod he went into the back, gave me 2 and wished me luck on my engine. So want a used coil cheap, get out of town.

Another source I discovered the other day was those little Chinese dirt bike/scooter/quads they sell everywhere. Again on a whim I asked the sales kid if they had parts and he said no but gave me the name of an outfit nearby that did. Went over and asked the counter guy about a small 12v coil. After establishing I wanted a coil for a 4 stroke, for $20.00 this is what he pulled out. The coil is 1 3/8 long, about 1 ¼ in diameter, and works great on my Webster.


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## gus (Jul 31, 2014)

Hi Bob,
I have same problem,old fashion car engine ignition coils are hard to find. Bought a grimy one for S$20(US$160)
which was humongous and took up too much workbench space. Passed by a motor-cycle repair shop and bought
one coil 1/8 size. Same price. Have yet to try out.  Might try DIY Igniton Coil with my coil winder which has a counter. We have shops selling gas engine powered bicycles. Hopefully could buy something same as yours.
Will try the grass cutting engines too.


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## Hat56 (Aug 1, 2014)

gus said:


> Hi Bob,
> I have same problem,old fashion car engine ignition coils are hard to find. Bought a grimy one for S$20(US$160)
> which was humongous and took up too much workbench space. Passed by a motor-cycle repair shop and bought
> one coil 1/8 size. Same price. Have yet to try out.  Might try DIY Igniton Coil with my coil winder which has a counter. We have shops selling gas engine powered bicycles. Hopefully could buy something same as yours.
> Will try the grass cutting engines too.


Hi All
  I had the same trouble finding suitable ignition and coils but fond these guys om the net and they posted out to Australia no problems.

J E Howell model engine plans
*Email:                   * [email protected]
*Phone:                   *                   937.997.2000​Hollansburg, OH 

or try 
RCEXL 
RCEXL Ignition

Happy motoring  Hat


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## bmac2 (Aug 2, 2014)

Ive decided to go with Brains suggestion and try a Chuck Fellows carburetor on my Webster. If you havent seen the video of the carb running on his you can check it out here.
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?p=245053&highlight=Chuck+Fellows#post245053
The plan the main body of the carburetor calls for 1/2 x 3/8 and naturally I dont have any so I milled down a piece of 3/8 x ?? cut off I had in the scrap drawer. Set it up in the 4 jaw off centre per the drawings and drilled and machined it to size.


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## bmac2 (Aug 2, 2014)

Laid out reference lines for the jet and throttle then step drilled the holes and tapped the throttle for the #8 screw.


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## bmac2 (Aug 2, 2014)

The jet is made from a piece of ¼ brass just machined, drilled and threaded per the drawings.


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## bmac2 (Aug 2, 2014)

To mill the flats on the bottom of the Jet I setup it up so the first one was at 90 deg. to the #60 hole in the jet tube, then rotated in the vise using a parallel to keep things aligned.


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## bmac2 (Aug 2, 2014)

I have 1/8 ID fuel line so I took that end of the jet down to .135 and put a small lip on the end.


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## bmac2 (Aug 2, 2014)

Bad angle in the picture but the hole in the jet looks like its spot on for the centre line of the carb. Im going to put the jet upside down to the way its shown in the drawing. This way the throttle will be on the outside away from the spark plug.


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## bmac2 (Aug 2, 2014)

I did up the needle valve just per the drawings. Its pretty straight forward just drill and tap. Then just raided my wifes sewing box (Never thought quilting would cross over into engine building) for the appropriate needle. Thats it, only 3 parts to make and though the jets a bit fiddly none of them terribly hard to make. Tomorrow Ill take down the end to fit the manifold, finish up the throttle and see if I can try it out on the engine.


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## bmac2 (Aug 4, 2014)

Before I got started on the carb Id striped the engine down and gave it a good gleaning, first with just soap and water then with solvent. Used Bondo to smooth out all the brazing on the base, sanded it out and it was ready for primer and paint.


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## bmac2 (Aug 4, 2014)

The paint has had a couple of days to dry now so I got the engine back tougher. To set the crank at 15 degrees I held my protractor to a couple of 123 blocks with a small magnet so the arm rested right beside the crank web.


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## bmac2 (Aug 4, 2014)

Thinking that this is a bit of a pain and fiddly to set up I took out the spark plug and used a dial indicator to measure the pistons distance from TDC while the crank is sitting at the correct angles and wrote it on the bottom of the base. I have a 2 indicator I used to time the exhaust but Im sure a calliper would work just as well.


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## bmac2 (Aug 4, 2014)

Well Im a happy camper. The color turned out to be just what I wanted. Looks great (to me) with a undertone of rust!


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## bmac2 (Aug 4, 2014)

I think Ive got about 2  2 ½ hours on the engine now (cant stop playing with it) and I cant get over how well it starts. Give it 3 slow turns holding it back until I feel it kick then give it a good flip and away it goes. The Chuck Fellows carburetor is a great, simple design thats easy to make. The only problem Im having with it is the spring I have on the throttle screw is too week and the screw rotates out while running. Ill have to have another look in that Bag O springs I found the valve springs in for something stronger. The one thing Ive learned about adjusting either of the carbs is that the engine seems to take a second or three to respond so its tweak, then wait for engine to catch up. They should have to change the definition of the phrase Very forgiving design so that when anyone looks it up all they get is a link to the Webster plans. 

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbLVZFoRUk0[/ame]


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## gus (Aug 4, 2014)

Hi Bob,

Very good paint work and superb finishing.th_wav

Cam cutting begins tomorrow for the Nemett-Lynx Engine. Keeping my fingers crossed.


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## johnmcc69 (Aug 4, 2014)

Great finish, great runner, GREAT work Bob!

John


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 4, 2014)

Looks good and runs good too!!! Do you find that the Chuck Fellows carb gives you satisfactory throttle "response" so you can slow it down and speed it up the way you want? The carb worked super good on my Webster.---Brian


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## bmac2 (Aug 4, 2014)

Hi John and thanks. Im very happy with the paint in the right light it just looks like faded rust. Just the sort of color youd expect on an old utility engine.


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## bmac2 (Aug 4, 2014)

gus said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Very good paint work and superb finishing.th_wav
> 
> Cam cutting begins tomorrow for the Nemett-Lynx Engine. Keeping my fingers crossed.



Hi Gus. This was my first IC with a single lobe to cut and the thought of setting up for a multi lobe cam gives me chills. Ill be keeping a good thought for ya cutting that cam.


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## bmac2 (Aug 4, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Looks good and runs good too!!! Do you find that the Chuck Fellows carb gives you satisfactory throttle "response" so you can slow it down and speed it up the way you want? The carb worked super good on my Webster.---Brian



Hi Brian and thanks again for drawings. The Chuck Fellows carb is so straight forward and simple a design that after I had the 3 parts finished I was ready to look over the plans the see what Id forgotten. Rof} 
The throttle response is smooth as silk now that I have a stiffer spring so it stays put. It will idle right down and rev up to where Im afraid it going to something nasty to itself. I think the timing might be a bit off, it starts missing at a slow idle. As a kid I only remember this style of engine running irrigation pumps and things like that so Ill probably set it for a nice medium speed and watch it spin.*beer*
Thanks again I think this carb is a perfect match for the Webster.


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## Swifty (Aug 4, 2014)

Starts and runs great, a very nice engine to be proud of.

Paul.


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## bmac2 (Aug 21, 2014)

I still havent come to a final decision on a permanent base for the engine so I thought Id have some fun with the fuel tank. I wanted something different so I started by making a 1 ½ to 1 ¼ cone out of some sheet aluminum to form the base.


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## bmac2 (Aug 21, 2014)

For the fuel cell Im going to use a 2 ¼ piece of 1 ½ brass sink drain I found in my Plumbing Stuff box. From my notes this should hold enough for about 5 to 10 minutes of run time. To cut it to length I set it up in the lathe with a wood plug in the chuck end and then carefully cut through with a parting tool leaving a just a few thou.


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## bmac2 (Aug 21, 2014)

To separate the two pieces just push in on the thin bit and peal it away like opening a sardine can. Then just cleaned up the ends so theyll be ready for solder.


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## bmac2 (Aug 21, 2014)

The fuel cell has to match the cone shape of the base so I over to the mill to slit it lengthwise. It always surprises me the stresses in metal, this opened up about ½ when I cut it.


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## bmac2 (Aug 21, 2014)

The brass was under so much stress to hold the cone shape so I needed to make up some small rivets to hold it tougher. That done I mounted it on a quick and dirty wooden plug and trued up the ends in the lathe. I know the rivet line is ugly but no one will ever see it.


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## bmac2 (Aug 21, 2014)

Made up the top and bottom of the cell and got the three parts cleaned up and fitted tougher. I want to do the top, bottom, and side seam in one go so I find it easiest to just put a fire brick on a lazy susan. To make sure I dont have the bottoms solder running out while I solder up the sides and top Im going to use eutectic solder and a micro butane torch.


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## bmac2 (Aug 21, 2014)

Did up the rest of the bits, gave everything a good cleaning and a couple of coats of primer and now I just have to let things dry for a day or so before I can get the final paint colors on.


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## bmac2 (Aug 23, 2014)

I had to make a bigger button, my wife pointed out that the first one looked too small. 2 coats of automotive lacquer, some left over lamp hardware, and I can start screwing the pieces together.


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## bmac2 (Aug 23, 2014)

Well I pretty happy considering it all started with a 99 cent pepper shaker my wife pointed out while we were grocery shopping. I still have to give it a couple of coats of clear lacquer over the decals.


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## Shawn (Aug 24, 2014)

Uhh...Bob, that is freakin awesome!!!

Shawn


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## Swifty (Aug 24, 2014)

What a great way to make a fuel tank, absolutely amazing.

Paul.


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## cfellows (Aug 24, 2014)

I'm glad the carburetor worked well for you.  One thing I've discovered helps on the low end idle is cutting or grinding a small chamfer or bevel around the end of the throttle screw.  This provides an air bleed at low throttle settings.

 Chuck


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## cfellows (Aug 24, 2014)

Bob, how do you keep the fuel from just draining out through the carburetor when engine isn't running?

 Chuck


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## bmac2 (Aug 24, 2014)

cfellows said:


> Bob, how do you keep the fuel from just draining out through the carburetor when engine isn't running?
> 
> Chuck



Hi Chuck
Thats easy. Gravity. 
While I was stressing away trying to figure out how to drill a hole in glass, seal it in a way that the fuel wouldn't dissolve, and some sort of float/drip system to control the delivery. My wife said _why not just make the top piece a facade and put your gas in the bottom part_. :wall: Out of the mouths of babes. 
So the top is just the worlds second fanciest gas cap with some colored water in it. The actual fuel cell is in the bottom half of the base with a 1/8 OD copper vent/overflow tube.


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## Swifty (Aug 25, 2014)

bmac2 said:


> So the top is just the worlds second fanciest gas cap with some colored water in it. The actual fuel cell is in the bottom half of the base with a 1/8 OD copper vent/overflow tube.



Brilliant Bob, would never have thought of that.

Paul.


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## gus (Aug 25, 2014)

Hi Bob,
That is a very original and unique fuel tank. Just as though the engine drove to a Gas Station to top up. Could remember these hand-operated fuel dispensers which disappear from Singapore in the early 40s though some 2T petrol mixers cum dispenser  could be seen in the rural countryside in the late 50s. 
Now cranking my brainbox to come up with another unique fuel tank. Taking my sweet time to finish up the Nemett-Lynx.


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## werowance (Aug 26, 2014)

gus said:


> Hi Bob,
> That is a very original and unique fuel tank. Just as though the engine drove to a Gas Station to top up. Could remember these hand-operated fuel dispensers which disappear from Singapore in the early 40s though some 2T petrol mixers cum dispenser could be seen in the rural countryside in the late 50s.
> Now cranking my brainbox to come up with another unique fuel tank. Taking my sweet time to finish up the Nemett-Lynx.


 
Gus, how about a model fuel tanker truck with the tank built into the trailer hooked to that big ole lynx engine?


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## gus (Aug 26, 2014)

werowance said:


> Gus, how about a model fuel tanker truck with the tank built into the trailer hooked to that big ole lynx engine?




Its a challenge to look around for some device. May end up with some device very original and cranky. Now waiting for divine inspiration.


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## bmac2 (Aug 27, 2014)

Hi Gus
I think my divine inspiration came via Google. I was searching images for Model Engine Fuel Tank and it kept showing me gas pumps. 
Your Nemett-Lynx is what I think of as a high performance engine. You could keep the tank a clean simple design, polish it up and put it on a stylized base.
scratch.gif


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## bmac2 (Sep 30, 2015)

Chucketn
These might be a little small but let me know if they make any sense


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## chucketn (Oct 1, 2015)

Thanks for posting the water jacket drawings, Bob. I had a hard time getting my head around the addition. As I have a small foundry set up, I think I'll try casting both the water jacket and the frame  when I build this version of the Webster. As the Webster will be my first IC engine, I think it best for me to start with the air cooled version first.

Great build, and a great runner too!

Chuck


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