# My X2 Mill Upgrades



## bobbyjim (Jan 9, 2016)

Recently picked up a used X2 with very little use for a good price. After years of attempting to mill on my '37 Craftsman 12" with a milling attachment I got a mill.

Started immediately to come up with ideas. First thing was a belt drive using steel pulleys instead of aluminum like most. I think the added weight of steel makes for smoother milling.

Next was a spring loaded spindle lock.

Then came a column brace. Used 1/2" 6061 aluminum plate with 23 M6 bolts holding it together. Plus original nut which now uses a 1/4" thick washer. Then 4 more bolts threw base and table. The back of the column is plated up to the electrical box using 6" wide plate. Bolted together with M6 cap screws that can be seen plus more under the reinforcement plates that are counter sunk. I cut a hole to give me access to the LMS gas lift as can be seen in the back. Then the mill is bolted to a 200lb table. 

Then a LMS gas shock which works great.

Well it didn't take long to get tired of cranking the table. After looking at dozens of types of drives from simple and cheap to expensive ones like the LMS model. I just didn't think I would need all those electrical boxes, switches, potentiometers etc. 
I just used a B&D drill motor and clutch and the original trigger/reverse switch. The chuck just pops off and this went on the shelf as was not needed. This gives me variable speed and forward and reverse in one switch. Stops before crashing just by the clutch. The drive shaft and disconnect was so simple compared to the complicated ones I have seen. Took no time to make.

So far I have a lightly used mill as owner also had in his home garage a full size mill, shaper, lathe and much more. This mill and a small lathe were his starter models. Total investment so far with all materials and mill is $400.00.

So far everything works perfect including my drive system.


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## peter2016 (Jan 18, 2016)

I like your mods.

 I have an X2 as well and had all sorts of issues with it out of the box in terms of rigidity and too much play on the axis.

I haven't upgraded the drive yet as the gear drive has been ok for me so far though very noisy. 

I converted the cheap threaded rod axis to ball rod which completely removed any noticeable play. 

I then added nema 23 stepper motors to all axis and made it full cnc with stepper motor driver from eBay and a spare pc. 

However the column rigidity was a big problem. I added a steel brace similar to yours but I still got too much flex.  

In the end I filled the column completely full of epoxide resin and small  gravel (from fish shop) and that made the difference.

Personal I think out of the box it is not worth the money on an x2 unless your willing to spend the same money again upgrading it. But after alot of messing around removing its flaws i got a good little cnc for a fraction of the price.


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## Blogwitch (Jan 18, 2016)

Arc Euro managed to get around that major problem by designing and have made a very solid cast iron upright, and is used on this machine

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catal...per-X2-Plus-Mill/SIEG-Super-X2P-HiTorque-Mill

These machines are also available from LMS.

So if you are in the market for one of these small mills, maybe that should be the way to go rather that the one with the twisting column.

I have a brand new one in my storage area that is waiting to be converted to CNC, and by giving it a good looking over, it seems to have cured that major problem.


John


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## gmac (Jan 18, 2016)

Could you post a little more info / pics about the use of a drill for the axis drive? I have the same mill and have been planning to add a drive but like you was put off by the cost / complexity of the usual solutions. How do you identify drills that incorporate clutch mechanisms (without dis-assembly)? What model B&D did you use?

Thanks for the post.

Cheers Garry


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## bobbyjim (Jan 19, 2016)

gmac said:


> Could you post a little more info / pics about the use of a drill for the axis drive? I have the same mill and have been planning to add a drive but like you was put off by the cost / complexity of the usual solutions. How do you identify drills that incorporate clutch mechanisms (without dis-assembly)? What model B&D did you use?
> 
> Thanks for the post.
> 
> Cheers Garry


The drill was just a single speed Black & Decker. You can find them on Craig's List with junk batteries cheap or at yard sales. There is also a 2 speed model which might even be better. I have one but didn't want to sacrifice it for the cause.

So just gut the drill and separate the pop off chuck and keep the switch if you want to use it. That's what I have done but I have a controller on order from Amazon which has a reverse switch and on/off combo potentiometer all in one for $8.50. Drill a hole for the motor with a tight fit, separate the motor from the gear housing and drill 3 holes in the mount. Slide motor/gear housing back in plate with out screws. Put the 3 screws threw the plate and screw motor/gear housing/plate together. 
Mounting bolts are just 6mm studs screwed into original plate with drilled out hollow aluminum bar stock with cap screws on end.

The drive is super simple, I have seen to many complicated set ups and came up with this version. The B&D is a drill driver with the chuck off, so it's able to use hex shanked nut drivers. I used a 7/16 nut driver with a built in magnet in the drill. Then took a steel bar and drilled out to within 1/2" of the end. On the end I turned it down and threaded for a 7/16 nut. Cross drill the bar and threaded for a machine screw, no nut needed for the screw this way.

Disconnecting is just sliding the bar, the magnet keeps them together. Runs smooth as silk with no wobble. For the switch I am using the original for now and may even keep it if I don't like the new set up. Use it like a pistol trigger, flip the lever and you reverse the feed. Variable speed is easy to use, go from barely moving to fast. I am using a 12V power supply and works OK with 18V motor. Tried a 18V and make the motor run faster. Using the original switch makes a nice and simple dead man's switch. Also the clutch eliminates the need for shut off switches as it just slips if you go to far. 

Here are some photos, any questions just ask.


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## gmac (Jan 19, 2016)

bobbyjim;

Thanks for the additional photos and description - I'm off to the yard sales ! I might sidestep the power supply issues associated with a rechargeable drill and just adapt a 110v powered drill.

Cheers Garry


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## bobbyjim (Jan 19, 2016)

gmac said:


> bobbyjim;
> 
> Thanks for the additional photos and description - I'm off to the yard sales ! I might sidestep the power supply issues associated with a rechargeable drill and just adapt a 110v powered drill.
> 
> Cheers Garry



I think your better off with a B&D battery drill as I don't believe they made any AC models with the pop off chuck. That style is the easyist to make a drive for. 

 Power supply is nothing more than a printer supply, anywhere from 12-18V. They usually have piles of them for sale at thrift/church/etc resale stores for a $1.00 or so. Also a good place for the drills. They get donated when the battey goes.
 I am using one with 4 amps & 12 V. These motors don't draw much so even less  may work. I just used what I had laying around.


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## gmac (Jan 19, 2016)

Thm:Thm:: Thanks again !

Garry


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