# Cutter grinder



## Gordon (Aug 4, 2020)

Has anyone had any experience with the U2 cutter grinder offered several different places at about $170.









						Green U2 Universal Tool Cutter Grinding Grinder Lathe Cutter Holder kit 25mm   | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Green U2 Universal Tool Cutter Grinding Grinder Lathe Cutter Holder kit 25mm  at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!



					www.ebay.com
				




It would seem like it would be fairly easy to build the rest of the machine.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 4, 2020)

Professor Dennis Chaddock CBE resigned the Deckel/Alexander and made the Quorn.

I made the latter. However it is now into the Mark3 by Hemimmgwaykits in England.
The Drawings for the Mark 3 were about £65. 

Easy to build? Me, I looked forward - with - let 's say-  curiosity.


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## Gordon (Aug 5, 2020)

I am not too likely to build a machine. For my home use I can just discard a lot of cutters for the price of a machine.

I still would think that it would be fairly easy to build the rest of the machine. Most of the precision stuff is in the head and the remaining part is in the grinder.


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## doc1955 (Aug 5, 2020)

Here is a video of the system I built for sharpening ed mills.  There is a play list on my youtube channel.


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## Gordon (Aug 5, 2020)

doc1955 said:


> Here is a video of the system I built for sharpening ed mills.  There is a play list on my youtube channel.



Is that your own design or are plans available?


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## doc1955 (Aug 5, 2020)

The air bearing unit has plans the rest is my own design. I have some of the build in the play list.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 5, 2020)

The Brooks which was featured in  issues 16 and 17 pf Model Engineers Workshop magazine looks dead simple to make.  Have a look at Gadget Builder.com.

Again for a freebie is the Bonelle which is more or less a fabricated Quorn certainly looks both interesting- and challenging.
From Canada, there is the Tinker which had its roots in the UK.  Very simple but you have to buy the plans- yet again.

For what it is worth, most tool and cuty during the lockdown which  grinders seem to have failings of one sort or another.

In the dim and distant past, I spoke with Arnold Throp of Dore Engineering and with connections with the seller of Quorn Castings. Like me he built a Quorn but for most run of the mill stuff, he used the far simpler Kennet. The latest version of it is the Worden Mark3 which I am building as 'displacement therapy in the never ending lockdown here.

Plenty of choice. Merely overcoming the inertia which seems to beset most here.


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## Mousetrap (Aug 6, 2020)

Has anyone feedback about a tool grinder called "Acute Tool Sharpening System" by www.eccentricengineering.com.au available from drawings to a finished item.


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## L98fiero (Aug 6, 2020)

Gordon said:


> It would seem like it would be fairly easy to build the rest of the machine.


Looks like that unit and my toolpost grinder could be a match made in heaven !  
And for the price, if the unit is reasonable quality .........


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## awake (Aug 6, 2020)

Mousetrap said:


> Has anyone feedback about a tool grinder called "Acute Tool Sharpening System" by www.eccentricengineering.com.au available from drawings to a finished item.



Looks like "a cute" system ...


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## goldstar31 (Aug 6, 2020)

I have the drawings.
Again, I think Bazmak made a version.

However my guess is that it is only for lathe tools.  seemingly there was to be more but as far as I am aware, it hasn't happened. I MAY be out of date but that's my take.

Of corse------------- I do have a U2/3 Universal Tool and Cutter grinder

Something llike the Quorn ma well be difficult to s et up but a tad more simplified with the Mark 3 but ----- but the price is as the French would  say 'Tres Interessant'
Again, I have the plans plus an assortment of 'unmachined' Quorn castings----- well I have

Norman


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## doc1955 (Aug 6, 2020)

The setup I built does the ends of endmills plus the sides doing primary and secondary relief angles. I am very happy with it and have sharpened a lot of endmills with it. It really didn't cost a lot to build. If I were guess it was under $150 since I had the metal and the only cost was the spindle motor and the cbn wheel.


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## SmithDoor (Aug 7, 2020)

There is  a drawback to sharping end mills i found it change the size. 

Dave


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## goldstar31 (Aug 7, 2020)

SmithDoor said:


> There is  a drawback to sharping end mills i found it change the size.
> 
> Dave



Nil illegitimi carborundum


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## Gordon (Aug 9, 2020)

I ended up ordering the drawings for the Tinker. it looks simple enough and I probably would not have to order much material or parts. I like the looks of the Worton MK3 and drawings can be purchased but the drawings do not include details on some of the parts which come machined and I do not want to invest over $500 US in the complete kit. I started out with the idea that I was not going to get sucked into this. Weak character I guess.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 9, 2020)

Gordon said:


> I ended up ordering the drawings for the Tinker. it looks simple enough and I probably would not have to order much material or parts. I like the looks of the Worton MK3 and drawings can be purchased but the drawings do not include details on some of the parts which come machined and I do not want to invest over $500 US in the complete kit. I started out with the idea that I was not going to get sucked into this. Weak character I guess.


 Whilst the old Tinker had 3 iron castings, the Canadian version is fabricated from mild steel bar.
I lost my old Nottingham, England drawings from days long gone and a friend supplied me with the new ones. These were for information and subsequently destroyed. It brings me to the point of perhaps, the Mini Tinker which you will get with the bigger drawings.  Perhaps you will do a write up on your future project. Meantime, I wish you well in your endeavours

Norman


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## Gordon (Aug 10, 2020)

Something which I find interesting on the Tinker is the lack of information. I can find photos but no videos and the photos do not get close enough for detail. I still am not sure of how the part is indexed in the holder. The part is held in a collet, MT2 according to the description,but I still wonder how an end mill would be indexed to do the other flutes. Obviously removing the part from the collet to index to the next flute would not work. I guess that I am just going to have to wait for the drawings. I also wonder how such a simple looking item could end up needing 90 drawings. It does not appear that there could be over 20 pieces in the whole assembly.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 10, 2020)

Gordon 

Historically, there was great animosity between owners of the Quorn and thee thn embryo Tinker.
As Professor Chaddock was in the 'In' crowd and Norma Tinker was in his little shed in Long Eaton, Nottingham, there was no competition really.

So scrapping the rest of my flagging memory, the Tinker I my guess has fairly similar  tool holding which appears in all sorts of other cutter grinders.  One is 'classic' to most grinders and that is  'a finger' to hold- say a 2, 3 or4 lip cutter.  Again, a finger can allow a cutter to follow a flute.
This, I find is now part and parcel of an ER32 tool holder which swops with the more simple holder which is nothing but a 1" tube( in many) which has a series 2BA grub screws. Yes 2BA- what a lovely thread.
Further 'indexing' on the Tinker is to put crude divisions on each end of a ring to fit the notional 1" or 25mm tool holder. The Quorn one, which fits the normal 1" tool holder has detents as well as a 360 degree ring which both indexed and locked with an expanding collet.
Of course GH Thomas produced the dividing head with one hole but two Acme screws which will create ANY angle. 

Then, if you must, you can fit an elliptical or epicentral chuck - if you are unto ornamental turning.
You will add all sorts of holders to suit your own needs as you familiarise yourself with your machine

Then- isn't it the Formula for creating angles on a grindinder with 0.006 x the angle required times the diameter in inches on the perifery of the grinding wheel 

It gets addictive-- sorry!


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## BaronJ (Aug 10, 2020)

Hi Guys,

I'm in the throws of making my version of a "Brooks TCG".  I've almost finished the grinding spindle cartridge, but still have a lot to do, including finding a suitable motor to drive the spindle.






The part finished grinding spindle.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 10, 2020)

Hi John
               Theoretically, you need a 1/6th HP 2880RPM Fracmo type mootor.
I might---MIGHT have one. 

I now that years ago I stripped a Fracmo motor- speed unknown as it is under a small earthquake.

If I can pull it and de-cypher the plate - cos it had TWO sets of reduction gears- and a condenser of sorts.

I'm still in shielded lockdown but--- have you anyone driving up from Sheffield to Newcastle( Gosforth)?
( The return railfare even with a Senior Citizens Rail Card is or seems to be £47)

Have a think as you progress. 

Cheers

N


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## photopro (Aug 10, 2020)

I have the whole machine in my shop and it's become my best friend.  I purchased it a tool auction probably 12 years ago or so.  It only took me10 years more to learn how to use it properly from the translated from the Chinese manual that came with it.  I subscribe to a forum called The Tool and Die Guy mainly because he has a 5 part series of videos on how to use a Deckel which is similar. Once I viewed those, it was a piece of cake.  I use mine mostly for making single lip cutters which come in handy for all sorts of things.  Only recently have I tried sharpening end mills with it and that is working out fairly well.  I can't do self centering mills on it though.  Not sure if it's the wrong wheel or I just can't position the end mill properly with the stock setup.  After sharpening those, I have to remove the remaining little bump in the center with a Dremel tool which defeats the ability to drill solid material.  Not a great loss really.  I didn't know that you could purchase just the swivel unit you showed in your post.  The shaft it rides on appears to be a precision ground part, so you might want to keep that in mind if you build your own.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 10, 2020)

Yes- I have one as well

Mine came with  a couple of straight cup wheels- one carborundum and the other a diamond one.

However, I added a diamond taper cup wheel.

Best Wishes

Norman


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## BaronJ (Aug 10, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> Hi John
> Theoretically, you need a 1/6th HP 2880RPM Fracmo type motor.
> I might---MIGHT have one.
> 
> ...



Hi Norman,

Thankyou for the offer !  Yes a small fractional HP motor would be ideal.  I'm thinking of trying to mount the motor and spindle in a similar way to the Quorn.  The mounting pillar is only 20 mm diameter so I'm trying to balance the weight roughly equal on both sides of the column.

As far as traveling I'm only an hour away,  but I'm in the same boat as you, and supposed to be shielding.

Stay safe.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 10, 2020)

If the Moderators and staff will forgive me!

John
          I have an almost complete set of unmachined castings for the Mark 1 Quorn. All that seems to be missing is  the two castings which are fitted to the 1.25"  round pillar. These hold the spindle which you have demonstrated. I presume the OD of the spindle- cartridge is an 1.000" pr more modern 25MM.
However, the Bonelle is Very similar and the fabricated alternative to. the Quorn seems suitable.

So potentially we have the makings of a Quorn together- if I'm lucky- a motor. Even if it is only a 1440rpm all that is needed is a larger spindle pulley-------- because I've dome that with a 1440 rpm ex washing machine motor

Yes we are BOTH in isolation and shielded- and me without transport.  Frankly it is to possible to  bundle up what I've got- and get the lot to you on a carrier.
Cost?  A simple Thank You suffices amongst friends

Worth a thought or three

Norman

NB Thanks to the staff for continual tolerance of help


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## BaronJ (Aug 11, 2020)

Hi Norman,

Thankyou very much, I'll mail you direct.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 15, 2020)

Gordon

I presume that you have now the plans etc for the Tinker
       Obviously,          I'm now curious about your views on it

Cheers


Norman


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## Gordon (Aug 15, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> Gordon
> 
> I presume that you have now the plans etc for the Tinker
> Obviously,          I'm now curious about your views on it
> ...


I still do not have the plans yet. He does not take credit cards or Pay Pal so I had to mail a check. He should have that by now but I don't know when I will actually receive the plans. With the mail deliberately slowed down in US it may be a while.


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## Gordon (Aug 16, 2020)

I contacted them to see if they had received the order and they said that mail between US and Canada is taking up to 3-4 weeks so I may have the plans by 2021. How did we go from a world power to sub third world?


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## nel2lar (Aug 16, 2020)

I have a plan for grinding end mills that uses 5-C collets. If interested PM me. 
Nelson


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## Gordon (Aug 16, 2020)

Nelson: I am interested. I have sent you a PM.

The more that I look at this the more confused I get. Plans look like they are way to complex for my simple use or too simple to be useful and accurate.

Perhaps my initial idea of the $170 unit from eBay is worth a look for a good start. It looks like it is adjustable in every direction and mostly needs the grinder portion.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 16, 2020)

I  understand and sympathise but \doing the ends pf a say  an e nd mill may only involve 'touching up tWO lips- both at 180 degrees from each other.

Please don't be offended if I describe a very simple holder?

Take a piece of square   bar and drill a hole- say 1/2"  bore to 'see what you are doing- with a 1/2" end mill.
Drill and tap for a little grub screw.
Put the drill in so that it the 2 cutter edged are horizontal when the laid flat. 
Tilt your table- it could be plywood at 5 grees and  present the first edge to take a tiny  grind. Take a careful touchwith a grinder. Feel happy and flip the holder over through 180 degrees- and take a light grind as before.

OK it is a bit crude etc but it gives an idea. To do a 4 cutting edges one uses all four sides of the square bar.

To do the 2nd 'lands' the table is tilted 15 degrees.


As I said, it does need refing but but I hope that  you get the idea.

Cheers


Norman


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## Gordon (Aug 16, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> I  understand and sympathise but \doing the ends pf a say  an e nd mill may only involve 'touching up tWO lips- both at 180 degrees from each other.
> 
> Please don't be offended if I describe a very simple holder?
> 
> ...


I have thought about trying to do something similar using my 5c collet blocks. I have the square and the hex blocks. Mostly I need a better table and a way to put guides on it. For now perhaps I should just concentrate on making a better table and be content with just touching up the ends on an end mill.


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## goldstar31 (Aug 16, 2020)

A top slide would be an improvement but I set off simply to give you the basis

Best Wishes

Norman


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## goldstar31 (Sep 11, 2020)

I was clearing some old entries on the conputer i one of my odd moments and found , the draings of the  Tinker tool grinder.

i had bought the casings and original  UK drawings  and didn't feel that what  I now find on file to transgress from copyright responsibilities.

I got into the realms of more than 56 pages and simply wondered if anyome ( apart from JohnB) was  actually building anything.

Well now?? Comments please

Norman


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## BaronJ (Sep 12, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> I was clearing some old entries on the conputer i one of my odd moments and found , the draings of the  Tinker tool grinder.
> 
> i had bought the casings and original  UK drawings  and didn't feel that what  I now find on file to transgress from copyright responsibilities.
> 
> ...



Hi Norman, Guys,

Somewhere I have some parts for making a Tinker !  The original drawings disappeared years ago when the original workshop was moved out of.  I lost an awful lot of stuff at that time.

As far as building anything, someone commented about making tools to make tools !  I need to put keyways into some pulleys, so I've made a broach to do the job.





This was just a bit of scrap 12 mm bright bar.  I gave it a skim to get it spot on 12 mm diameter as it wasn't quite on size.




After milling a 3 mm wide slot down part of its length to take a piece of 3 mm square HSS tool steel I then drilled a 4 mm hole and threaded it 10X32 for an hex grubscrew.




The HSS tool steel was ground at one end to form a cutter, very similar to a lathe tool.  The grubscrew is used to push the cutter out and control the depth of cut.




Here you can see the broach in use.  Note the spring wound around the shaft holding the cutter in place and applying force to pull the cutter into the slot.  This makes the ability to control cutting depth very precisely.




In this picture the key slot has been finished at a depth of 1.6 mm.




And the finished pulley.  Only two more pullies to do !  The other two are 8 mm diameter holes and will have 2 mm wide key slots in them.


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## goldstar31 (Sep 12, 2020)

'A Funny thing happened to me on the way to the Forum'. It's an English joke

Well I was clearing unwanted rubbis from some bit on my Mac PC!

It was 56 pages of the most recent Tinker and Mini Tinter.   To do the basic Tinker there is only a week's work-- or so they say
I

So have fun. 

Norman


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## Gordon (Sep 12, 2020)

I have been playing around with trying to make a cutter grinder. I should have known better than to just start doing stuff without an actual design. I have made and remade practically every piece. I should have done a cad drawing/design before I started. I started with a home made drill sharpener which I had made years ago and never used. At this point I have basically made a spindle grinding wheel mounted to a column which raises and lowers. I started by reworking a cheap cross slide vise which I had but that is bulky and crude so that is going out. I am basically using the Harold Hall design in the Milling: A complete course" for the feed. I started with a couple of different ideas for tilting the tool and finally ended up with rotating the head. I ordered the Tinker plans but after waiting three weeks for the mail to get to Canada from US I contacted them and told them to just destroy the check when it came because at that point I was into design #732 which grew from looking at too many YouTube videos and internet searches. If my time was worth minimum wage I could have bought enough cutters to last me the rest of my life. I am sure that I will go through several more redesign phases before I either have a working machine or just give up.


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## goldstar31 (Sep 12, 2020)

Having gone through the drawings-- not the text, I think that you will have missed a very competent  piece of machinery. 

I made a Quorn because the impossible is always a challenge. well it is if you are not an engineer


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## awake (Sep 12, 2020)

BaronJ said:


> Hi Norman, Guys,
> 
> Somewhere I have some parts for making a Tinker !  The original drawings disappeared years ago when the original workshop was moved out of.  I lost an awful lot of stuff at that time.
> 
> ...



Great design! What is the smallest key way cutter that you have made this way?


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## goldstar31 (Sep 12, 2020)

awake said:


> Great design! What is the smallest key way cutter that you have made this way?


With the right grade of abrasive, the width of a pubic hair on a gnat

Chaddock and his Quorn  made- not sharpened 1/10th dia milling cutters  for his vee engine.
With diamond paste, you get mirror finished tools which give mirror finish work.

If you read the 'book', lathes are designed  to prepare work for centre-less grinding but 'we' arely hve such things in the home workshop and we have to adopt things like files and 'papers' - unless we can grind and hone tools.

Somebody will disagree- as they do.


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## BaronJ (Sep 13, 2020)

awake said:


> Great design! What is the smallest key way cutter that you have made this way?



The 2 mm one that I'm making at the moment to key the 8 mm diameter holes.  I'll post pictures of it when I've got it sorted.

The principle will be the same as the one in the pictures that I posted earlier.  I will still use a 10X32 hex grub screw, simply because I have loads of them.  But you could use anything you have handy.  The only proviso is that it doesn't protrude when the cutter is fully in the slot.  With the 8 mm one I should have 6 mm of depth to play with and the grub screws are 6 mm long .  I might have to grind a touch off the end.


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## goldstar31 (Sep 13, 2020)

BaronJ and I were communicating about the New Tiinker and the one that we both knew from the original designer- Norman Tinker.

Actually, it would not be ffar from the Tinker design to use a vertical slide instead.
It would need a hinge but it is worth a thought.

I also have a scrap top slide which was from  a Super7 when the spitot  cracked for some reason

There you are

Regards

Norman


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## HMEL (Sep 13, 2020)

DIY Tool and Cutter Grinder Idea Notebook
					

At some point most hobby machinists get interested in possibly building a Tool and Cutter Grinder.  There's something fascinating about building a machine




					www.cnccookbook.com
				




Have been researching this topic myself.  Thought I would share this link.  Have been looking at making a quorn with castings from Martin Models.  But I get mixed information on difficulty of getting small diamond wheels to make it work for carbide and then I think maybe with my skills and available tools required for precision work I would be better off buying a deckel and suffer with the cost rather then the pain of messing such a project up.

Really like the broach tool.


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## BaronJ (Sep 13, 2020)

HMEL said:


> DIY Tool and Cutter Grinder Idea Notebook
> 
> 
> At some point most hobby machinists get interested in possibly building a Tool and Cutter Grinder.  There's something fascinating about building a machine
> ...



Thanks for that !

The Quorn is not that difficult to make, but the Tinker tool grinder is quite easy !  They both require some skill to set up and use.  You mention the Deckel clone, that comes into the same category as above.

People see these machines and run away with the impression that you just plug in your tool and grind away, then your tool comes out with razor sharp cutting edges !

Sorry if I'm bursting bubbles here, but it just doesn't work like that.

As far as small diamond wheels are concerned, you don't need them unless you are doing specialist work, ordinary small stones are all that is needed, particularly for internal grinding.


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## goldstar31 (Sep 13, 2020)

HMEL said:


> DIY Tool and Cutter Grinder Idea Notebook
> 
> 
> At some point most hobby machinists get interested in possibly building a Tool and Cutter Grinder.  There's something fascinating about building a machine
> ...


I got the set of normal wheels from Hemingwaykits in the UK. Not cheap but they are the ones for the Quorn.
I got diamond wheels for the Chine [email protected]?£ Deckel clone with the machine but  RDG Tools  claim to stock replacements. Again Chros Tools have choices in diamond stuff and CBN too.
Now these are ALL in the UK and I pay UK prices too.
I don't understand Evil Bays or Amazing things or alibaba except in a pantomime. So please don't ask.

If Martin Models still some castings left, I would lash out band buy the Mark3 plans from Hemingwaykits,

Again, the notice in my public house reads-- actually one is a Working Mens Club whilst the other is the local Conservative Club.  
'Please do not ask for credit as a refusal may cause offence'


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## HMEL (Sep 14, 2020)

BaronJ said:


> Thanks for that !
> 
> The Quorn is not that difficult to make, but the Tinker tool grinder is quite easy !  They both require some skill to set up and use.  You mention the Deckel clone, that comes into the same category as above.
> 
> ...


Thanks:

I am changing tact and putting this tool (cutter grinder) further down on my list.  After consideration most of what I do or am able to do is pretty simple.  I have an older drill grinder Lisle that I might have fun with in converting to something like a tinker grinder.

Live and Learn is my motto!


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## BaronJ (Sep 14, 2020)

HMEL said:


> Thanks:
> 
> I am changing tact and putting this tool (cutter grinder) further down on my list.  After consideration most of what I do or am able to do is pretty simple.  I have an older drill grinder Lisle that I might have fun with in converting to something like a tinker grinder.
> 
> Live and Learn is my motto!



Most of the problem with TCG's is understanding what is actually required for a tool to cut efficiently !  This is one reason that I advocate people should learn how to grind drills and lathe tools by hand and not rely on carbide insert tooling.


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## Gordon (Oct 5, 2020)

I have been fooling around with trying to make a cutter grinder, mostly using parts and material I have on hand and/or in the odds and ends material. I have what I think is a reasonable machine but I am having a problem with setup. I can get a reasonable result on a non center cutting end mill but when I try to sharpen a center cutting end mill I end up with a center projection. If I move the cutter to over center to get rid of the projection it hits the next tooth and takes the edge off from that tooth. 

Prior to starting this time consuming exercise I thought that I had it figured out and I could find all kinds of articles and videos on this but obviously I was not looking at the right information. 

What am I missing? Any links to the correct information?

Gordon


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## BaronJ (Oct 5, 2020)

Gordon said:


> I have been fooling around with trying to make a cutter grinder, mostly using parts and material I have on hand and/or in the odds and ends material. I have what I think is a reasonable machine but I am having a problem with setup. I can get a reasonable result on a non center cutting end mill but when I try to sharpen a center cutting end mill I end up with a center projection. If I move the cutter to over center to get rid of the projection it hits the next tooth and takes the edge off from that tooth.
> 
> Prior to starting this time consuming exercise I thought that I had it figured out and I could find all kinds of articles and videos on this but obviously I was not looking at the right information.
> 
> ...



Hi Gordon,

I've been making a TCG for nearly two years, I'm only just getting around to the grinding spindle !

As far as center cutting slot drills and end mills are concerned you need to use either a wheel edge or a tapered cone wheel.  My preference is a coned wheel.  The one I have is a 180 grit diamond wheel 100 mm diameter.  Grind the relief first and then the cutting edge.  Note the 2 degrees depression towards the center.


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## goldstar31 (Oct 5, 2020)

I agree with BaronJ but perhaps could add that some end mills require gashing and some to literally bore out the middle.

Without attracting criticism- probably from armchair wonders- I must add those time immoral words-----
it all  depends.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's pouring and I am reluctant to go out to the shed again.

Two thoughts about the topic arise and I ppass them on- for what they are worth.

I have a Quorn- amongst other things and  if you look at Chaddock's book( I think) it was possible to buy about 5 diffrent wheels for varying tasks. Now- said he timorously-- there are diamond and CBN.
  to add. I have-as politely as I can- say-- a lot.

Again, I have a box of ER-32 collets-- and a holder and a finger which holds the appropriate tooth
Again, I have ploughed my way through assorted videos for these Chinese Deckel/Alexander clones.
Some of them are utterly incomprehensible( I might be too) but a few might help.
Then, I'm afraid to say that some are full of repetition  and hums and hars.
Like me, they are doing it all for free and must be  respected for  their efforts.
It will not be easy.


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## doc1955 (Oct 5, 2020)

I use a cup wheel set on center tilted for the primary and secondary relief angles. I haven't  videoed sharpening the ends something I probably should do. Anyway I have done a couple on sharpening the flutes though.


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## Gordon (Oct 5, 2020)

Here is what I have ended up with so far. As I said it is mostly stuff laying around and other failed projects.


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## Gordon (Oct 5, 2020)

I have pretty much concluded that sharpening the ends of a center cutting end mill is just much more trouble than it is worth. Two of the flutes on a four flute cutter require grinding back from the center. Two tooth and non center cutting may work just fine but that is not what I have in most cases.


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