# Cringle steam turbine genset



## darwenguy (Apr 13, 2021)

Hi all, ive had some requests for more details of the cringle turbine model.
Il record a full build log here with plenty of photo's.
Il be making a set of 3 so you may see some parts shown more than one off.


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## darwenguy (Apr 13, 2021)

This is a photo of the kit as it arives, it includes all castings, barstock and fittings to finish the model.



Il first start work on the shaft and rotor




The 6mm stainless bar is first trimed to length, then turned the steps on the shaft.









A little change from the drawing specs here! I could not find my m5 die nut, so ive opted to form a striaght knearl and press fit the shaft into the rotor.




Next onto the rotor, il first rougth it to size and then finish turning the rotor after it is mounted onto the shaft.







Faced off and clean up the chucking spigot.




Then chuck via the spigot and turn close to final size and center drill, drill and ream 5mm.




Thats all for today, tomorrow i will finish machining the rotors then onto the rotor housing casting. 
Regards 
Luke


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## darwenguy (Apr 14, 2021)

Today i finished making the rotors,
First removed the chucking spiggot.
then the shaft was pressed into the rotor with a little locktight using the milling machine to press in the shaft.










The shaft was then put back on the lathe to finish the rotor to final size with very light cuts.




Next up onto the milling machine and my homemade rotary indexer, for the 16 8mm pockets to be milled. The indexer was made from plans found on hmem forum and well worth the investment.








The finished rotors.




Then next onto the rotor housing.


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## darwenguy (Apr 15, 2021)

Todays progress on the rotor housing and bearing housing castings.
The photos will explain most of the process.
First step was to machine the inner of the casting.












Then chuck on the inner diameter and machine the rear side of the housing.




Next part the bearing housing castings.
















And check fit!




The bearing housing was then mounted onto a peice of bar with a m8 bolt as a super simple indexer and going off the ready marked hole positions on the casting.


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## darwenguy (Apr 15, 2021)

The bearing housing was then super-glued onto the rotor housing and the holes marked through with a 3.2mm drill and then drilled through 2.4mm then tapped m3.
















The rotor housing with the bearing housing was then mounted in the lathe to bore the rear bearing pocket.




And thats all for today, more to come tomorrow.


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## darwenguy (Apr 16, 2021)

Hi, todays efforts as follows..
Did a little more on the rotor housing, milling the feet level and inlet flange. Still need to drill and tap the for the steam nozzle.




Next job onto the rotor covers.




First faced of the inner serface.




Then drill the screw lugs through 3.2mm and drill/tap for the condensate outlet m5.




The rotor housing was then screwed onto a solid bar to hold in the drill vice.
The front cover was then stuck to the rotor housing With a drop of superglue.




The holes were marked through 3.2mm then drilled to depth and tapped m3.







Thats all for today, next task is to mill and drill the exhaust flange on the front cover. More to come soon.


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## skyline1 (Apr 17, 2021)

Fascinating little job, it's not unlike my own steam turbine generator (see my avatar or more pics of it here  Genset pics 

This looks like a Stumph turbine where the steam admission it is straight on tangential to the rotor. Mine is a DeLaval type where the steam comes in from the side at about 30 Degrees to the rotor

Where did you get the kit ? I might possibly have a go at one of these myself.

Doing the curved exhaust pipe looks a bit tricky, it looks like the castings aren't cored so you are going to have to somehow bore out this curved hole.

Best Regards Mark


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## darwenguy (Apr 17, 2021)

skyline1 said:


> Fascinating little job, it's not unlike my own steam turbine generator (see my avatar or more pics of it here  Genset pics
> 
> This looks like a Stumph turbine where the steam admission it is straight on tangential to the rotor. Mine is a DeLaval type where the steam comes in from the side at about 30 Degrees to the rotor
> 
> ...


Hi mark, i have seen the pics of your genset before now. Realy nice work! That turbine rotor is a work of art!!
Mine is much simpler and probably much less efficient.
 I intend to eventually make an inline genset with the same turbine And a brushless generator.
And yes the steam is fed as you seid.
I produce the kits myself, my own design.
The front cover is cored and just requires the hole through the exhaust flange, il add more pics of the inside.
Regards
Luke


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## darwenguy (Apr 17, 2021)

More details of the kit here..


skyline1 said:


> Fascinating little job, it's not unlike my own steam turbine generator (see my avatar or more pics of it here  Genset pics
> 
> This looks like a Stumph turbine where the steam admission it is straight on tangential to the rotor. Mine is a DeLaval type where the steam comes in from the side at about 30 Degrees to the rotor
> 
> ...



Heres a pic of the inside..




More details here...





						Live Steam | Cringle Model Engineering | England
					

Live Steam | Cringle Model Engineering | England, producer of live steam toys




					www.cringlemodelengineering.co.uk


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## darwenguy (Apr 17, 2021)

A bit more work done today as follows..
Finished machining of the front cover exhaust port and the brass exhaust flange. The photos best explain the process..




The exhaust flange casting.




First faced off then drill tap m4 for mounting onto an arbor.








The same arbor is used on the rotary table to drill the screw holes.








Then back to the lathe to drill and bore the center hole.




Then mill the flat section on the flange.




And the finished component.


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## darwenguy (Apr 17, 2021)

And more..
The exhaust flange was used to mark the hole centers through then drilled to depth and tapped m3.













The exhause hole was then drilled through.




And thats all for today.


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## skyline1 (Apr 17, 2021)

Hi Luke

Aha all is revealed I had visions of hours of work with a die grinder but now I see the back of the casting it's simple. 

A brushless motor is a possibility but there are a few technical problems. As far as I am aware a true brushless D.C. machine does not exist, A "brushless" motor is in fact a permanent magnet high frequency  Polyphase A.C. machine (what a mouthful !)  In it's normal "mode", like drones and R.C. cars it is connected to an Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) which is a micro miniaturized version of the A.C. varispeed drives you sometimes see on machine tools. What it does is to "chop" up the D.C. supply (usually from batteries) into 3 phase A.C. at variable frequency and phase rotation using semiconductor switches (F.E.T.s usually) thus you can control the speed and/or direction of the motor.

So if you couple one up to a turbine for example it will produce power but it will produce 3 phase A.C. at a frequency and voltage dependent on it's speed. Actually this is just what full size power stations do so theoretically at least, you could transform this up to any voltage you want for transmission, again just like full size practice. These motors are designed for high speed use so are ideally suited for turbines if we could get over the 3 phase A.C. problem.

The good news is WE CAN  the solution is 6 small diodes and a capacitor (I'll send you the circuit if you want or just search for 3 phase bridge rectifier).

Whilst on the subject of electronics, I have all the design details for the switchboard on mine on my dropbox if it interests you Switchboard and also the LED Regulator that is inside it Regulator

I have been looking at your website and all of your model kits look very interesting. Now I know why you are making 3 of these at once. When budget permits and when I have finished the enormous Audio project I am now working on I think I will invest in one of these little turbines and you lovely little boiler to go with it.

BTW thanks for your complement on the rotor they are not too difficult to make and do not require much by way of equipment but they do need a great deal of patience. and a penchant for scraping away with needle files.

Best Regards Mark


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## darwenguy (Apr 17, 2021)

Thanks for the info mark.
Im actually also in the process of making a model AC generator and have here a range of bridge rectifier diodes to try and also i guess the same one as you say with the 4 diodes and a capacitor. They actually come as a little kit on ebay with all the components and a printed bord for very little money. Actually there single phase! sorry, so yes the 3 phase diagram would be intersting to see.
My ac generator build is in the 'work in progress' section.
I have got my head around the basics of generators now i think. For the inline genset im thinking i think there called diametrical cylinder magnets and a simple single phase winding witch would ofcorse make AC so rectification would be more efficient.
The DC dynamo on this model is just a simple small dc motor in a fancy shell.
I do like your switch bord, the whole model looks great and im going to make somthing simular i have been colecting little ols style voltage meaters and they would look great with your switches on a panal.
Thanks the website is still new,  im still working on more models to add to the range. And thanks the boilers have been very popular. 
I can see the effort put into your rotor, it looks like is it two plates with the vanes cut then twisted and layerd then rivets and soldered the ring on. You must have great patiance!! Well done.


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## skyline1 (Apr 17, 2021)

Hi Luke

Here you go 






This is the circuit for a 3 Phase bridge. As you can see it is much like a single phase one except there are 2 extra diodes.

You say your dynamo is just a small D.C. motor in a fancy shell so is mine, we seem to think alike in these things.

I was thinking about taking some old meter movements out of their cases, shortening the needles and mounting them in some little 3d printed ones that look like the old "half moon" ones you see on old electrical gear. These little meter movements are very sensitive 50 microamps typically so even at this scale they won't load the output down. I might try it sometime if I can find time amidst the myriad other projects. 

I've got real working Knife switches so why not real working meters and whilst I'm at it I'll make some handles for the rheostats on the switchboard, they work too BTW thanks to some modern electronics I can dim the lights or bring them up as I want.

You are right about the rotor that is pretty much how it is made. markout and cut the two discs (one needs to be offset by the thickness of the metal so they line up) anneal them, dish the blades (I've got a tiny press tool for that, for press read vice), then anneal again and twist them, tweak them into line as the twisting distorts them a little, then the edges need to be sharpened so the blade has a crescent moon shape, clamp them on the shaft with the collars, drill through and rivet the whole lot together then secure the shroud and solder it on.

Then comes balancing them, that will REALLY try your patience, or turn you into a gibbering idiot !  But it is vital for performance at the speeds these things can achieve, about 30,000 RPM in my case and that's ON LOAD.

I used to test Rotating Electrical Machines for a living at one time so if there is any help I can give you with them please ask. I might not know the answer but there is very likely someone on here who does. There a number of threads on the subject and some very knowledgeable people.

Best Regards Mark


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## Steamchick (Apr 18, 2021)

Mark, an excellent job! I do like the 2-tier modelling mounting so you display the turbine floor, complete with switchboard (where is the operator?) And with the hand water pump, gas valve etc mounted beneath for the fireman to operate descretely.. However,  when sitting at the bench operating those controls the pressure gauge, water gauge, and any electrical meters are not directly in view. That has given me some things to think about for my genset layout....
Well done anyway. The generator casing looks very authentic. Just needs the steam plumbing to be lagged with white cotton string and painted with household emulsion paint to look like white insulation.
Regards,
K2


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## skyline1 (Apr 18, 2021)

Hi Luke

Great idea, In fact the steam pipe was originally lagged in just this manner but I had to take it for off for some reason during one of it's many modification rebuilds and forgot to put it back on again.

This turbine, like yours I expect, was not exactly designed from the get-go. It sort of evolved through many experiments and tweaks. Not all of them were successful, indeed some were outright failures.

I am not alone in this however as even today turbines are a little experimental and unpredictable, and on a small scale like this even more so.

Both Gustav DeLaval and Algernon Parsons had their share of "epic fails" and Sir Frank Whittle had some spectacular, explosive ones,



I eagerly await the steam nozzle bit of your project as this is a VERY critical component and I had several tries before I got it just right.






Ideally it should be like this. and getting the throat diameter just right is tricky, too small and you don't get enough steam flow, too large and you get plenty of flow but not enough velocity.

You will soon know when you do get it right, as I did !

In early days of testing the turbine I was running it unloaded testing various nozzle sizes and Geometries and one day as I slowly increased steam pressure it suddenly hit a point when it accelerated wildly and then suddenly became much quieter. It was drowned out by the sound of every Dog, Cat, Sheep, Bird and other sundry creatures within about 1/2 a mile making the most horrendous racket.

What had happened (As I found out later) is that it was going so fast that it's blade frequency had actually gone ultrasonic, I couldn't hear it but all the animals could !

I Suspect you now suffer from a condition called "Turbinitus" I also have it. It's quite incurable, and rather contagious, but great fun if a little frustrating at times.

So keep at it and I can't wait to hear 'em spin up for the first time.

Best Regards Mark


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## darwenguy (Apr 18, 2021)

Hi all, got some hours done today, making the steam nozzle and the steam inlet flange.
The steam flang machined as follows.








Then onto an arbor with 4mm stud to turn the other side.








Then on the mill to drill the screw holes 3.2mm.




To finish the outer profile i use another arbor on the lathe(a brass offcut with holes tapped). If i was just making one piece i would probably just file this to a oval profile.




The parts were then drilled through 4mm and a little cleanup.




The inlet flange was then used to mark the holes on the rotor housing, then drill/tap for the screw holes and steam nozzle.


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## darwenguy (Apr 18, 2021)

Next i made the steam nozzle.




First turned and thread m6 and a small center drill makes a nice nozzle opening.








After parting off and drilling through from the other end the slot was formed on the mill.




The finished nozzles and how they fix into the housing..












Il make the drive pully tomorrow and give them a spin test. oh and i still need to make the oil cup and hole in the bearing housing.


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## darwenguy (Apr 18, 2021)

skyline1 said:


> Hi Luke
> 
> Great idea, In fact the steam pipe was originally lagged in just this manner but I had to take it for off for some reason during one of it's many modification rebuilds and forgot to put it back on again.
> 
> ...



Hi mark i think there a little confusion with the replys here.
A lot of info there thanks, but i just have no time for starting new projects at the minute far too many already ongoing.
Yes i did have a go with a few different rotor tests before i settled on this design as its simple easy to draw and machine and cast the parts.
Its more of a simple pelton wheel type, the steam is actually fed to the side of the the slots and is forced in a u-turn to exit this increases the power from the steam as its still expanding.
The nozzle again is very simple, i tried a few different designs also to settle on this one. it narrows down to 1mm with just a small 1mm center drill used that also opens the end up to a slight funnel.
The pics will explain better than my words.
I have made around 30 of these models now and they run quite smooth on little steam pressure and im guessing about 25k rpm. 
Il assemble them and do some test on air tomorrow and try to get a video they do sound great throtleing up 
Regards 
Luke


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## Steamchick (Apr 18, 2021)

Hi guys.... maybe you should try a Tesla turbine... 
K2


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## darwenguy (Apr 19, 2021)

A bit more done on the turbines, made the drive pullys.

















I also drilled and tapped for the oil hole in the bearing housing but no pics of that.
Then the parts were cleaned and assembled to test run. The bearings were first pressed into the housing.




And the assembled turbines so far..




I did take a video of some test but il try get the link sorted now.
More tomorrow.


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## darwenguy (Apr 19, 2021)

Video here.. if the link works!..








						cringle model steam turbine testing
					

testing the cringle model steam turbine made from casting kit.




					youtube.com
				








						- YouTube
					

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.




					youtube.com


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## skyline1 (Apr 20, 2021)

Hi Luke

The links do work and so do the turbines 

It'll be interesting to see how they do on steam probably even better if the nozzles are right

You have built these at amazing speed and great accuracy, all credit to you they are a splendid little jobs.

Nest Regards Mark


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## darwenguy (Apr 20, 2021)

skyline1 said:


> Hi Luke
> 
> The links do work and so do the turbines
> 
> ...


Thanks mark, i think they do run a little better on steam and quieter. 
I should have them finished befor the end of the week, thats the perks of running my own bussiness i work seven days a week haha.
More to come later.
Regards
Luke


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## darwenguy (Apr 20, 2021)

Made the exhaust pipes up this morning.
First trimed up and polished.




A little cosmetic flare is easily formed by spinning.




Then soldered and cleaned up.









Next i made the lamp, a actually have these already made up as i make a lot of these lamps to sell on there own.But some pics of the process with some scrap parts for showing the set ups.
The lamp post and shade is supplied pre formed in the kit and just need a little fettling and solder.




The brass base casting.




First faced off the bottom then drill through 5mm.




Then a 5m screw and arbor is used to turn the top side and tapered section.




The holes are then drilled, and the center hole opend up to 6mm.
i usually make these lamps in batches of 30 so simple jigs and fixtures speed things up for me.




The finished base and lamp after clean up.




Next onto the base castings, i aleady have the dynamo's made up as i usually make them in batches of 30 also. Bit will add some pics of the setups.


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## darwenguy (Apr 20, 2021)

Hi all, i finished up most of the machining today, next part to show is the dynamo, its basicaly just a small dc motor hidden in a fancy casting.




First mill the bottom flat.




Then bore out the center to fit the motor.




I then machined the pully for the dynamo.








The pullys are drilled and tapped for the grub screw.




The base was then marked out and drilled for fixing holes.




And all the parts finished so far.








And all the parts ready for painting tomorrow. I still need to make the steam condensate drain cock, these will be made while the paint dries. More to come tomorrow.
Regards
Luke


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## Steamchick (Apr 21, 2021)

Brilliant! Please can you advise the motor/dynamo spec,, source, etc. - I want one!
K2


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## darwenguy (Apr 21, 2021)

Hi the motors i get from here..








						MABUCHI RF-500TB-12560 Micro Round 32mm DC Motor 6V-12V Bell Fragrance Machine  | eBay
					

Typical applications: 1. Automatic fragrance sprayer and fragrance machine. Most of them are welded, due to inventory reasons. 1pcs x Motor with cable. [Model] RF-500TB-12560-32. We afford all cost if it's our fault.



					www.ebay.co.uk
				



The dynamo model i make myself and is sold on ebay and my website here..





						Live Steam | Cringle Model Engineering | England
					

Live Steam | Cringle Model Engineering | England, producer of live steam toys




					www.cringlemodelengineering.co.uk
				




Regards
Luke


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## Steamchick (Apr 21, 2021)

darwenguy said:


> Hi the motors i get from here..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Luke. I am looking for something to replace a home-made generator which is part of a model made in the 1920s. I fitted a motor from a Black n Decker dust buster, but the reciprocating engine is far to slow to generate using the 12000 rpm motor I have!
I'll look at the specs of this and see how it compares.
I like the machining simplicity of the turbine. I wonder if Santa will buy me a kit later in the year?
Ta,
K2


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## darwenguy (Apr 21, 2021)

Steamchick said:


> Thanks Luke. I am looking for something to replace a home-made generator which is part of a model made in the 1920s. I fitted a motor from a Black n Decker dust buster, but the reciprocating engine is far to slow to generate using the 12000 rpm motor I have!
> I'll look at the specs of this and see how it compares.
> I like the machining simplicity of the turbine. I wonder if Santa will buy me a kit later in the year?
> Ta,
> K2


Thanks i did a bit of resurch and tests to find this motor. It is relativly slow rpm but also quite low voltage so still needs a decent rpm to produce voltage. 
Running them from the engine flywheel is best to gain the speed increase.
They are more suited to the smaller engines and run well with the mamod and wilesco type models. And they are probably about the same performance as there plastic dynamos.


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## darwenguy (Apr 21, 2021)

Hi all, today i finished up the machining of the turbine drain cocks and finished painting the parts.
Got the parts primed this morning after masking up all the required faces. Etch primer is esential on aluminium to get a lasting finish.




Then onto the drain cock.




First machine and thread m5, then i use a simple homemade form tool to produce the profile as i make a few of these, but a parting tool and small file works the same.




Then a little file and sand paper to finish shaping on the lathe. Then the 3mm hole is drilled through and opend up with the taper drill.




The valve core is then turned to the same taper angle and tapped m3.




And check fit and lap into valve body.




The body can now be parted off and reversed using the m5 thread to hold in the lathe. The valve core is fitted in the open position and drilled through 2.5mm.




And the finished drain cock. 




The drain cocks are functional and used to remove the condensate untill the turbine warms up on steam.

Then the parts got a coat of paint and thats everything ready for assembly tomorrow


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## Richard Hed (Apr 22, 2021)

darwenguy said:


> Hi all, today i finished up the machining of the turbine drain cocks and finished painting the parts.
> Got the parts primed this morning after masking up all the required faces. Etch primer is esential on aluminium to get a lasting finish.
> View attachment 124733
> 
> ...


Hey, thanx for that on the drain cocks.  I've been intending to make some -- good to see how it's done.


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## skyline1 (Apr 22, 2021)

Hi Luke

Those drain cocks are a little model in themselves. They are rather more precise and intricate that they seem.  Well done, making little valves like this can be a tricky job I've made a fair few myself,

On my turbine I don't actually have one, just a small drain hole to allow condensate to run out. 

As turbines rely on velocity not pressure, very little steam if any escapes from it in operation, and it doesn't matter much if it does.

However this does mean that you tend to get a bit of condensate in the "basement pump room" so I think i will fit one of your drain cocks to mine so I can pipe it away (just solder a little drain pipe in the end of it). Less cleaning up after a run.

Do you sell them BTW as I think I'm going to be too busy over the next few months to find time to make one.

Best Regards Mark


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## darwenguy (Apr 22, 2021)

skyline1 said:


> Hi Luke
> 
> Those drain cocks are a little model in themselves. They are rather more precise and intricate that they seem.  Well done, making little valves like this can be a tricky job I've made a fair few myself,
> 
> ...


Thanks mark,
They are a little fidly to do but would have cost around £50! to purchase so well worth a few hours of time.
They are quite neccessery on this model, when its cold the condensate floods the rotor and causes huge drag! It doesnt take long to warm up then the drain is shut or condensate just dribnles out.
I usually hold a rag over the exhaust for a few seconds and this forces the condensate out instantly and the revs increase dramaticly.
I dont sell these on there own, there not honestly a job im that fond off making to be honest jist make them when i have too.
Regards
Luke


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## Steamchick (Apr 22, 2021)

Hi Luke. I like the perfectionist in you that makes tapered cocks. A design from pre-machining days when cocks went into barrels, and tapers were common because you could make them with a tapered knife blade in a hole. Made of wood, it was easier to make tapers than parallels. Later in history, we get machines, machinists - then accountants. The accountants wanted straight plugs (parallel) in parallel holes because that's what a cheap jobber could make with a machine. (And the accountant could get rid of the expensive machinist!). So that's what you can buy for gas taps nowadays! Leaks 'n all. But good enough if you can tolerate a drip? 
Incidentally, why do you need to shut-off the drain? Surely you could arrange a clever venturi in the exhaust pipe to suck condensate out with the exhaust steam? -Then to the condenser? I would imagine the pressure at the condensate drain is the same as in the exhaust? I can't understand why you need to shut it of, when you want it to replenish the boiler? Please teach me.... I must be missing something?
K2


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## darwenguy (Apr 22, 2021)

Steamchick said:


> Hi Luke. I like the perfectionist in you that makes tapered cocks. A design from pre-machining days when cocks went into barrels, and tapers were common because you could make them with a tapered knife blade in a hole. Made of wood, it was easier to make tapers than parallels. Later in history, we get machines, machinists - then accountants. The accountants wanted straight plugs (parallel) in parallel holes because that's what a cheap jobber could make with a machine. (And the accountant could get rid of the expensive machinist!). So that's what you can buy for gas taps nowadays! Leaks 'n all. But good enough if you can tolerate a drip?
> Incidentally, why do you need to shut-off the drain? Surely you could arrange a clever venturi in the exhaust pipe to suck condensate out with the exhaust steam? -Then to the condenser? I would imagine the pressure at the condensate drain is the same as in the exhaust? I can't understand why you need to shut it of, when you want it to replenish the boiler? Please teach me.... I must be missing something?
> K2


Hi, i just like the look of this style valve, and there quicker to make than a needle type valve with gland an all.
The valve is shut to stop condensate from pooling and making a mess.
I like your ideas but this is just a simple model toy no need to make it over complicated and i also have to make the kits and 'my' drawing comprehendable and at a resonable price. These models are well liked by the mamod and wilesco collectors.
My kits are ideal for begineers to the hoby, all metric so cheep tooling and most can be made on the generic mini lathes.
I would like to make a more detailed display model (like the one by mark) with a full mini power plant style set up, il find the time one day.
Regards
Luke


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## darwenguy (Apr 22, 2021)

Hi all, i got the gensets finoshed today.
All the fasteners and electrical components are supplied with the kit. 
Two wires are first solderd to the dynamo.



And a conector block is glued under the base to conect the lamp to the dynamo.




a few screws and thats about it done.
And the finished models...




Thanks for following along guys. Now onto the next job, il try to get a video link posted soon.
Regards 
Luke


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## darwenguy (Apr 22, 2021)

Heres a short video of the genset runing on about 20psi of air. I do still need to add the oil cups on these.








						cringle model steam turbine genset
					

a working live steam display model of a turbine and generator.hand crafted by cringle model engineering.mkre info on models and kits available at.www.cringle...




					youtube.com


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## Steamchick (Apr 22, 2021)

Hi Luke. What speed does the turbine achieve at 20psi on air?
I understand your "marketing strategy" - keep it simple, ensure guaranteed  success by users, look good, and a reasonable price!  I think a straight valve stem would probably do the job adequately. I buy caravan gas valves - the 90 degree on-off type. I used to get them 1/8 " BSP size for £10, but they probably cost double that now. I'll try and find a source....
K2


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## Steamchick (Apr 22, 2021)

Have a look for "1/8 inch BSPP Mini ball valve" from "Pipe Fittings Direct". Only priced between £2- £3. For those who can use such a thing instead of making a beautiful ball shaped tapered pin valve.
Unfortunately they have a plated body, instead of brass....
But there is one with 1/8" BSP Male one end and Female t'other...
But may be too big for your model?
K2


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## darwenguy (Apr 22, 2021)

Im not sure on the rpm, but i would guess over 20k rpm. Plenty fast enougth to light an led lol.
A few suppliers make model drain cocks, decent price one here..








						Model Live Steam Engine Brass Drain Cock 1/4" x 40 TPI ME Thread  | eBay
					

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Model Live Steam Engine Brass Drain Cock 1/4" x 40 TPI ME Thread at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.



					www.ebay.co.uk
				



I buy the fittings for my boilers from 'cleavdon steam' he has a nice range of fittings at reasonable prices.
these little items are always quite pricey. im eventually going to convert a little lathe into a turret lathe and knock out batches all my own valves, water guages and safty valves. But thats on the ever growing list of corse.


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## Steamchick (Apr 23, 2021)

Thanks Luke, Good plans! - Good luck!
K2


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## skyline1 (Apr 24, 2021)

darwenguy said:


> Im not sure on the rpm, but i would guess over 20k rpm. Plenty fast enougth to light an led lol.


 
That speed sounds about right, maybe a little faster, I estimate mine at about 30,000. Yes they should be able to drive A LED (ROTFL) ! more like a dozen or so.

Mine is at present lighting 16 100mW white LEDS in groups of four and could easily light 30 or more if I wanted to. 

I expect yours will be not far off that, your problem will probably not be getting enough power but getting too much and blowing the LEDs. If you find this is a problem I have a simple regulator circuit that can cure it.

Best Regards Mark


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## darwenguy (Apr 24, 2021)

skyline1 said:


> That speed sounds about right, maybe a little faster, I estimate mine at about 30,000. Yes they should be able to drive A LED (ROTFL) ! more like a dozen or so.
> 
> Mine is at present lighting 16 100mW white LEDS in groups of four and could easily light 30 or more if I wanted to.
> 
> ...


Hi mark yes its easy to blow the leds, i use 10mm leds with a built in resistor for protection. They are about the best quallity leds ive found anywere. They run on 5v-12v
They have a diffused lense and come in a realy nice warm white color more like a classic incandecent bulb.
Pic here, the resistor is just visable inside the heat shrink.





Link here to the supplier..








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