# Atlas 10F Micrometer Stop



## Jeremy_BP (Oct 10, 2011)

I've been boring a lot of blind holes recently, and decided that I really need a carriage stop. I had a Tumico micrometer head lying around, so I can make a micrometer stop.

I'm drawing it up beforehand, to hopefully minimize the amount of scrap I'll make. Here's the top.

My atlas has a flat bed, so I would imagine that this would fit most other flat bed lathes (myford etc.)

Please forgive my drawing style. 

View attachment stop.pdf


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## mzetati (Oct 11, 2011)

Here's a picture of mine, made from a cheap micrometer.
Will move the anvil knurled screw the other side of the al. bar, someday: a matter of bruised knuckles when hand feeding.

Marcello


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## Jeremy_BP (Oct 11, 2011)

Very slick, I like the knurled thumbscrew.
That gets me thinking, maybe I should learn to use that knurler that's just lying around...


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## Blogwitch (Oct 11, 2011)

Here is another take on it, not micrometer, but set up with slips for doing steeped shoulder jobs. A multi positional stop.

This is off my Atlas 10f that went to a new home a few years ago, sorry about the crappy picture.


John


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## Jeremy_BP (Oct 12, 2011)

That's really neat bogs!
Did you have any kind of indexing for the positions, and if so, how did you do that?


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## mzetati (Oct 13, 2011)

Yep! The multi positional stop saves a lot of time on repetitive jobs: will make one, someday.
As for indexing: a pin and a few holes on a circle, or a spring a sphere and some dimples would add some neat feature to the tool, though probably unneded as it would be held in place by the spring on the back.

Marcello


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## Blogwitch (Oct 13, 2011)

Jeremy,

All I did was to set up to drill six holes, but indented 3 and drilled thru for the other 3 for the bolts.

A 1/4" ball bearing was fixed into the main block so that as the front block turned, the spring loaded rotating piece would lift over the fixed ball bearing and when it came in line with the indented holes it locked in position. The spring lift was only say 0.010" to 0.015" to get it over the ball indents.

Hope this helps


John


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## Jeremy_BP (Oct 15, 2011)

Alright, so school is done for the week and I can actually start making this thing.






It all starts with a hunk of aluminum, 1"x1"x1.8".






Sized.
I realized that I needed a 9/16 hole. I don't have a 9/16 drill bit. I don't have a boring head either.






So I drilled a 1/2" hole on the mill, and popped in on the lathe for boring.






I got a good quality insert boring bar for about $10 from McMaster-Carr. I think I nearly had a heart attack when I found out it was cheaper there than anywhere else. It gives me the best finishes on everything I've ever cut with it.






Using telescoping gauges, I worked out to 9/16" exactly, then slowly enlarged the hole until The micrometer head was a nice sliding fit.






A 1/8" end mill cut the clamping slot.






I milled a step, then drilled and tapped for the clamping screws. I could have used one screw, but two looked nicer.






And it's a perfect fit. A quarter turn of the clamping screws locks down the mic. It's not going anywhere.






So I milled the rest of it.






And here it is. Now all I need to do is make the clamping plate and then I can see if my design is any good!


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## Jeremy_BP (Oct 16, 2011)

Here's the drawing for the clamp plate. 

View attachment stopclamp.pdf


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## Jeremy_BP (Nov 20, 2011)

Been a while, but I finally got around to finishing this.




Here it is. Clamps down rock solid on the lathe and works a treat.
I call that a success.


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## Blogwitch (Nov 20, 2011)

Very nice stop indeed. That should allow you to make multiple parts with ease.

John


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