# Peewee V4



## michael-au

Thought it was time to make a start on the Peewee V4 now that my Silver Bullet is finished

Started on the distributor 

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## Cogsy

I'll be following along, especially looking forward to seeing some of the bits I haven't figured out yet.


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## Swifty

I'll be following your build as well.

Paul.


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## gus

Gus will be following too. Pee Wee is on my build list.


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## michael-au

Made a bit more progress on the distributor


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## michael-au

Made the front pulley with fan attached, made a different hub to hide  the socket heads that are holding the  fan on, not sure if it will stay that way yet, I think it looks ok though View attachment ImageUploadedByModel Engines1431507102.440880.jpg

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Still need to bend the fan blades


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## michael-au

Also  made a back plate for the water pump 
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I'm thinking that I might use bearings in the water pump


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## michael-au

This will eventually be a carby ( I hope)

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## Davewild

michael-au said:


> This will eventually be a carby ( I hope)
> 
> View attachment 77067




I'll be following along, that's three of us that I know of that are building the PeeWee, your parts look great


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## michael-au

Third time lucky
Can't believe it took 3 goes to get the carb right, stupid mistakes
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## Cogsy

michael-au said:


> Third time lucky
> Can't believe it took 3 goes to get the carb right, stupid mistakes


 
Looks great though. I decided not to put the grooves with a ball nose on mine, it took far too long to make it and if I ruin it I'll have to make a third one as well (you're not on your own with stupid mistakes).

What's next?


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## michael-au

Next up is the front pulley, waiting for the one way bearing to arrive.

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## michael-au

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Finished the front pulley except for the one way bearing 

Thought I would try gun blue on it to stop it from going rusty 
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## Cogsy

Interesting. Is it a special chemical additive or more of a physical process? I've seen a few ways of gun blueing but I've yet to try any yet.


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## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> Interesting. Is it a special chemical additive or more of a physical process? I've seen a few ways of gun blueing but I've yet to try any yet.




It's in liquid form just rub it on until your happy with the look
The bottle I have is almost empty, I got some more off eBay waiting for it to arrive, then I will put some more on and then polish it up


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## michael-au

Managed to get 5Lt sulphuric acid today
Will try to anodise some of the parts


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## Cogsy

Another thing I have yet to try. I got hold of some proper dyes at least a year ago but haven't found the sulphuric acid yet. I remember when you could buy it at the auto shops but they don't sell it anymore.

I was thinking of maybe anodising some of the front features and maybe the intake manifold on the Peewee (when I find the acid) so it'll be cool to see how yours turn out first.


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## michael-au

Got my anodizing setup today, tried it out on a carby body that was no good on the bullet

This is the tank with the sulphuric acid in it

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The variable power supply 

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The colour dye with fish tank heater 

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The dye

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## michael-au

The carby after anodizing 

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Happy with the way it turned out, still needs to be polished


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## michael-au

Not much done lately, thought today I would anodise the fan hub and pulley 
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## michael-au

Started work on the crank shaft
Fist job was to turn down the steel from 2/14 inches to 1 inch
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Then mark out the holes for the throws on the crank
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Next drill with countersink drill bit 

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Then mount in lathe

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## Cogsy

I'll be watching along. I remember how stressful the crank was for me.

Love the layout dye, what do you use? I've always had trouble finding any over here.


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## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> I'll be watching along. I remember how stressful the crank was for me.
> 
> 
> 
> Love the layout dye, what do you use? I've always had trouble finding any over here.





This what I use not sure where you can get it, it was given to me by a friend how works in a machine shop years ago


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## michael-au

Finally got some time to make bit of progress on the peewee

The crankshaft is almost finished just need to thread the end



Happy so far with the way it has turned out


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## michael-au

Ready for threading, I don't have a 3/16" die will have to get one tomorrow


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## gus

Hi Mike.

The latest post on crankshaft turning is very educational for me. I have shying away from turning one piece crankshaft from fear of failure. Looking forward to make the PeeWee 4 sometime later.


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## michael-au

gus said:


> Hi Mike.
> 
> The latest post on crankshaft turning is very educational for me. I have shying away from turning one piece crankshaft from fear of failure. Looking forward to make the PeeWee 4 sometime later.




Thanks Gus
It is nerve racking, but feels good once it is finished


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## michael-au

Put the thread on the end of the shaft today


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## michael-au

Started work on the flywheel

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There is a 10 deg tapper on the front of the flywheel, hard to see in the picture

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Back turned out for the nut to hold it on

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Next will be to shape it

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Fixture turned up to hold the flywheel so it can be turned to the correct shape 

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Michael


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## Cogsy

Crank looks great and I'll be really interested in how you make the flywheel, still yet to do that. Many things have got in the way of my build but I'm hoping to get a bit more done soon.

Edit: Cross post...I see you're already well on the way to finishing the flywheel.


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## stevehuckss396

Brings back memories. Your doing a great job.


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## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> Crank looks great and I'll be really interested in how you make the flywheel, still yet to do that. Many things have got in the way of my build but I'm hoping to get a bit more done soon.
> 
> Edit: Cross post...I see you're already well on the way to finishing the flywheel.




Thank you Cogsy


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## michael-au

stevehuckss396 said:


> Brings back memories. Your doing a great job.




Thank you Steve 

I have seen your peewee and pacifier thread
I look at them a lot for inspiration and learn how to do things, very informative


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## michael-au

Finished off the flywheel today

Cheated and used CNC


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## michael-au

I hate it when the photo's end up sideways


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## michael-au

Started to machine the camshaft

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## stevehuckss396

Cam was my favorite part to make.


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## michael-au

stevehuckss396 said:


> Cam was my favorite part to make.




I think the cam and crankshaft are 2  parts that give satisfaction when they are finished

I will need the modify the ends of my cam, The bearings supplied by Dirk both have an ID of .186, shouldn't be a problem I hope


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## stevehuckss396

michael-au said:


> I think the cam and crankshaft are 2  parts that give satisfaction when they are finished
> 
> I will need the modify the ends of my cam, The bearings supplied by Dirk both have an ID of .186, shouldn't be a problem I hope



On the rear the gear should be a press fit and then the cam goes back to the lathe to modify the gear to accept  the bearing with a press fit. The id of the bearing should be about  .001 smaller than the shaft. I think the rear bearing should be .250 x .625


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## Davewild

Hi Michael

Your coming along nicely, you should be finished soon.
I have made numerous parts while here offshore Vietnam, I will post some pics once I get home, internet out here is to poor for uploading pictures.
Your parts are looking great, where did you purchase your gears?
I was going to get mine from WM Berg as per the drawings but they require a minimum $300 order

Dave


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## michael-au

Davewild said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> Your coming along nicely, you should be finished soon.
> I have made numerous parts while here offshore Vietnam, I will post some pics once I get home, internet out here is to poor for uploading pictures.
> Your parts are looking great, where did you purchase your gears?
> I was going to get mine from WM Berg as per the drawings but they require a minimum $300 order
> 
> Dave



Hi Dave

I got the gears with the castings from Dirk

I have a long way to go but its getting there

Look forward to seeing your pictures 

Michael


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## michael-au

stevehuckss396 said:


> On the rear the gear should be a press fit and then the cam goes back to the lathe to modify the gear to accept  the bearing with a press fit. The id of the bearing should be about  .001 smaller than the shaft. I think the rear bearing should be .250 x .625



Thanks for that Steve, I went to a bearing shop today and got 2 more bearings the correct size

I have the plans for your V8 and the blower (got them from minincastings) 

Was wondering if you have any info on the build that would come in handy

Not starting another project until the peewee in finished though

Im not sure if I will tackle the V8 or Kinner 5 cylnder radial next

Michael


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## Davewild

michael-au said:


> Hi Dave
> 
> I got the gears with the castings from Dirk
> 
> I have a long way to go but its getting there
> 
> Look forward to seeing your pictures
> 
> Michael


Thanks Michael

I will get hold of Dirk about the gears, I need to get hold of him anyway as I need a new block, Ive messed mine up:rant:


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## michael-au

Cam blank almost finished, just need to cut the end off

Now to make the jig for turning the lobes

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## michael-au

Davewild said:


> Thanks Michael
> 
> 
> 
> I will get hold of Dirk about the gears, I need to get hold of him anyway as I need a new block, Ive messed mine up:rant:




Bummer about the block

Lucky the foundry has it worked,out now and Dirk has some new ones


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## stevehuckss396

michael-au said:


> Thanks for that Steve, I went to a bearing shop today and got 2 more bearings the correct size
> 
> I have the plans for your V8 and the blower (got them from minincastings)
> 
> Was wondering if you have any info on the build that would come in handy
> 
> Not starting another project until the peewee in finished though
> 
> Im not sure if I will tackle the V8 or Kinner 5 cylnder radial next
> 
> Michael



Nothing special. The v8 is alot like the peewee so it would be an easy move.


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## Cogsy

Tha cam was a fun piece to build, although it takes a while to do. Using the jig and Steve's instructions you almost can't go wrong.


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## michael-au

Got a bit done on the cam fixture

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## michael-au

Making the bushes to locate the end of the cam 

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Bushes made and the cam in the jig ready to turn the lobes

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## stevehuckss396

Be careful to check clearance for the tool. If the screws are too long you could run into trouble.  Also i use a mini cutoff insert so i had to machine the corners of the fixture  down on the right side. If you are going to use a standard hss cutoff blade none of this should be a problem


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## michael-au

stevehuckss396 said:


> Be careful to check clearance for the tool. If the screws are too long you could run into trouble.  Also i use a mini cutoff insert so i had to machine the corners of the fixture  down on the right side. If you are going to use a standard hss cutoff blade none of this should be a problem




Thanks Steve I will check that out


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## michael-au

Jig finished, cam in place

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In the lathe and ready to go

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## stevehuckss396

Start with the pointer pointing at you at about 270 degrees. Work until you get to 90 degree and then do the switcharoo with the dial and needle. It doesn't matter where you start and stop. That way the pointer never contacts the center and there will only be one switch.


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## michael-au

stevehuckss396 said:


> Start with the pointer pointing at you at about 270 degrees. Work until you get to 90 degree and then do the switcharoo with the dial and needle. It doesn't matter where you start and stop. That way the pointer never contacts the center and there will only be one switch.



Thank Steve I wil do that 

Michael


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## michael-au

Three quarters done, to cold in the shed to finish
Hopefully will be finished tomorrow 
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## michael-au

Almost done, not my best work but useable 

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## stevehuckss396

Good deal. Get the gear and bearing pressed on and the hard part will be over.


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## michael-au

Started working on the heads, almost finished the machining, just need to put the groves along the top surface

I'm hoping that I will be able to anodise them

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## Davewild

Very nice,

Hopefully I will get some time soon to post  some pics and get some more machining done.


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## canadianhorsepower

very nice work  Thm:Thm:Thm:
were do we get plans for this motor 

cheers


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## michael-au

canadianhorsepower said:


> very nice work  Thm:Thm:Thm:
> were do we get plans for this motor
> 
> cheers



Thanks Luc

Im not sure who is selling them now, the web page that Bob Shores was selling them through is no longer available, since Bob has passed away

You could try Dirk Tollenaar ([email protected]) he is selling the peewee V4, he might be able to point you in the right direction


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## michael-au

Made a start on the water pump 

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## michael-au

a bit more progress on the water pump today


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## michael-au

Put some groves in the heads
Just need to clean them up ready to be anodised when the weather gets warmer

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## michael-au

Made the flanged nut to hold the flywheel on

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## michael-au

Decided to do some anodising today, now that the weather is improving and can get outside 

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## michael-au

Thought I would try and make a small tool post grinder to see if I can grind the valve stems when I make them

Still a little bit to do

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## canadianhorsepower

nice work were did you get the adonizing kit  ??
thanks


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## michael-au

canadianhorsepower said:


> nice work were did you get the adonizing kit  ??
> thanks




Hi
I sent to a company and asked for samples,and they sent me 8 different dyes, that was a long time ago

You can get all you need from here though.  http://www.caswellplating.com.au

Hope this helps


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## michael-au

Stone wobbled so I made a new end to hold the stone, but it looks like the thread on the shaft is crooked

Have to do some more investigation, maybe make a new shaft

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## barnesrickw

My Fordom(?) knockoff had a spinal run out of about 0.001.  I made a spindle that I could attach the drive too and got that down to 0.0004.  But finding a grinding tool that maintains that tolerance has been hard to find.


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## gus

One more skill to pickup. Anodising. Buying Sulphuric Acid in Singapore is tough. Will try to get some.


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## RonGinger

Sulfuric acid is not needed. The acid sold in powder form for use in swimming pools works just as well, and is much simpler to use. I had some sulfuric in my shop once and it rusted everything in sight. The pool acid worked fine on a couple parts I tried. My big problem was not getting the nice dark color I wanted. Like all shop processes it takes practice to get it good.


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## michael-au

RonGinger said:


> Sulfuric acid is not needed. The acid sold in powder form for use in swimming pools works just as well, and is much simpler to use. I had some sulfuric in my shop once and it rusted everything in sight. The pool acid worked fine on a couple parts I tried. My big problem was not getting the nice dark color I wanted. Like all shop processes it takes practice to get it good.



I have all the acid out side in a cupboard, so it won't affect anything in my work shop

Did you heat the dye, made thats the problem

I have a fish tank heater in the dye, if I want it to be darker I leave it in the dye for about 20 minutes


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## michael-au

Back plate and Water outlet pipe made
Just need to fit it all together now

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## michael-au

Anodised the heads today
Didn't come out to bad

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All the anodised parts so far

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## michael-au

Throttle arm done

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## michael-au

Retainers for the valve springs 

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Threaded onto wire for safety 

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There seems to be a hole in my work shop that everything you drop falls into, and is never to be seen again

Anyone else have one of these holes...or am I the only one


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## ICEpeter

Michael,
A small playful dog works like the proverbial hole in the shop floor. Have to keep an eye on the little bugger when he is around small parts that drop on the floor.

Peter J.


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## Cogsy

I'm not sure I have a hole as such, more like a portal. I drop something and it enters the portal, impossible to find no matter how much searching I do. 3 months later it appears in plain sight, maybe even sitting in the middle of the bench...


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## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> I'm not sure I have a hole as such, more like a portal. I drop something and it enters the portal, impossible to find no matter how much searching I do. 3 months later it appears in plain sight, maybe even sitting in the middle of the bench...




Cogsy 

I wish mine was a portal, the last thing I dropped was a new tip for my cutoff tool and it has never been seen again
Landed at my feet and just vanished


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## michael-au

Made a start on the valves


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Need to make a couple more and then finish them all off


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## michael-au

Made a guide to help press the valve cages in straight

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## michael-au

Valve cages installed

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## stevehuckss396

Alot of good work so far. Looking good.


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## Davewild

Hi Michael

I'm also working on the heads at the moment, a lot of work for such small things!!!


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## michael-au

Valves are done

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Cam follower guides are finished, still need to make the cam followers 

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## michael-au

Davewild said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> I'm also working on the heads at the moment, a lot of work for such small things!!!




You're right Dave there is a lot of work in the heads

I still need to drill the ports out


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## michael-au

stevehuckss396 said:


> Alot of good work so far. Looking good.




Thank you Steve 

I'm looking forward to the assembly stage to see how it looks, but we are still waiting for the castings from Dirk

Anyway there is still parts to be made, hopefully by the time I run out of things to make the castings will arrive


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## michael-au

Cam followers are done 

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## Cogsy

Your parts look great, as usual, and I'm jealous that you're making so much progress while I make none. I still haven't got the time I was hoping for, plus I blew a capacitor in my lathe and it might be a while before I can fix it.

Have you got a group shot of all your parts so far? Must be quite a pile of them already.


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## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> Your parts look great, as usual, and I'm jealous that you're making so much progress while I make none. I still haven't got the time I was hoping for, plus I blew a capacitor in my lathe and it might be a while before I can fix it.
> 
> Have you got a group shot of all your parts so far? Must be quite a pile of them already.



Thanks Al
I don't have a groupe shot yet, but I will take one as time goes on


----------



## michael-au

PCV valve done 

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----------



## michael-au

Made some nipples for the heads

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Might make another one, not really happy with the middle one


----------



## ICEpeter

Michael,
Following along and admiring your work and the quality of your work. Great stuff.

Peter J.


----------



## michael-au

Made some water access ports for the back of the block

Need to solder pipes and a nipple to them

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## michael-au

Started on the front plate with the fan bearing mount

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----------



## gus

Davewild said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> I'm also working on the heads at the moment, a lot of work for such small things!!!



Hi Dave,

Thats true. We have more our fair share of endless mini parts to make and it was best,we meet dimensional requirement. I have some reworks. Now in the midst of assembling the V-2. No rush. Completion date unknown.

Greetings for Christmas.


----------



## michael-au

Some more progress on the front plate 

The front is finished and the back just needs to be turned so the bearing fits, then make a program to CNC the shape out



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----------



## Cogsy

Are you making it thicker than the plans say or thinning it down? I had issues trying to successfully make it thin enough from solid so ended up making it 2 pieces, 1 piece of plate and then the 'snout', then joined them together.


----------



## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> Are you making it thicker than the plans say or thinning it down? I had issues trying to successfully make it thin enough from solid so ended up making it 2 pieces, 1 piece of plate and then the 'snout', then joined them together.




I did make it a little thicker, it's.078

Looks thicker in the photo because there is a lip around the edge at the moment


----------



## Davewild

Hi Michael
Your coming along great, I have yet to make the front gear cover.
I have made a lot of parts this trip offshore and will post some pics as soon as I get home in another couple of days with a better internet connection.
I made the rear adapter plate yesterday, luckily I did not cut  the corners off until after fitting the cast bell housing and I had to make the cuts much smaller than the drawing specifies, my bell housing bolt bosses are out of square by over 6 mm or .250 
Please check your bell housing before cutting the mitred corners on the adapter plate.
I also started on a radiator of my own design, what are you doing for a rad?

Your parts look great can't wait to see it run!!!

Dave


----------



## michael-au

Davewild said:


> Hi Michael
> Your coming along great, I have yet to make the front gear cover.
> I have made a lot of parts this trip offshore and will post some pics as soon as I get home in another couple of days with a better internet connection.
> I made the rear adapter plate yesterday, luckily I did not cut  the corners off until after fitting the cast bell housing and I had to make the cuts much smaller than the drawing specifies, my bell housing bolt bosses are out of square by over 6 mm or .250
> Please check your bell housing before cutting the mitred corners on the adapter plate.
> I also started on a radiator of my own design, what are you doing for a rad?
> 
> Your parts look great can't wait to see it run!!!
> 
> Dave




Hi Dave
Good to here you are make parts looking forward to the pictures, thanks for the tip on the bell housing

I will probably make a radiator similar to the one on my silver bullet but maybe an extra 2 or 3 tubes to make it wider

Michael


----------



## michael-au

More progress on the front plate 

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Just to see what it looks like with the fan 

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I will anodise it gold, should look ok


----------



## michael-au

This is what I have so far, still need to do the final fit and finish on somethings 

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----------



## Cogsy

Looks great, I'm jealous of your progress. It's going to be one wild looking machine when it's finished, should be awesome!


----------



## 10K Pete

I've been watching but haven't commented until now. This is an amazing
build and I'm very excited to see that the engine will be running pretty
soon. Great work and a great log.

Pete


----------



## gus

Would love to see this engine doing the ''Vroom Vroom"". Will be soon??


----------



## michael-au

Started making the posts for the engine stand
Still need to machine them to the final length
And drill the bottom for the 3mm socket heads that will hold them on the base

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They were turned with CNC, now they will be finished manually 

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Will anodise these but not sure what colour yet, maybe blue


----------



## michael-au

Finished off the machining and threaded the bottom end

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Next was the anodising 

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After they were anodised and then dyed, they are boiled for 20 minutes to seal the dye in

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Polished using braso 

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This is the jig to hold 2 parts, they are threaded to make sure there is a good electrical contact 

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## michael-au

Anodised the front plate today, happy with the way it came out

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----------



## 10K Pete

I sure do envy your ability to anodize at will! Beautiful parts. Can't wait
to see this all come together.

Pete


----------



## michael-au

Made the throttle arm black

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----------



## gbritnell

Hi Michael,
I just came across your build thread and started back at the beginning and read through it. You are doing some outstanding work on your engine. The finish with the anodized parts will make a striking engine when finished. 
If I might make a suggestion. When I built my small inline 4 cylinder engine it was the first engine that had a radiator and cooling system. I made a small fan similar to the one that you have built and after I got the engine running I noticed that there was no noticeable amount of air moving so I changed the fan, both in diameter but especially the pitch. It still doesn't move a lot of air but it's much better than when I first built it. If you can't get away with a larger diameter then give the blades quite a bit more pitch. 
gbritnell


----------



## michael-au

gbritnell said:


> Hi Michael,
> I just came across your build thread and started back at the beginning and read through it. You are doing some outstanding work on your engine. The finish with the anodized parts will make a striking engine when finished.
> If I might make a suggestion. When I built my small inline 4 cylinder engine it was the first engine that had a radiator and cooling system. I made a small fan similar to the one that you have built and after I got the engine running I noticed that there was no noticeable amount of air moving so I changed the fan, both in diameter but especially the pitch. It still doesn't move a lot of air but it's much better than when I first built it. If you can't get away with a larger diameter then give the blades quite a bit more pitch.
> gbritnell



Thank you for your kind comments

The fan is the same as on my silver bullet, I have not twisted the blades as yet, I will do that on final assembly of the front plate and fan hub.

Thank you for pointing it out though 

Michael


----------



## michael-au

Got the back plate for the bellhousing to bolt up too done today

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----------



## Davewild

Great work as always Michael, your holes in the adapter plate look nice and Square, your bell housing bosses must have been good?


----------



## michael-au

Davewild said:


> Great work as always Michael, your holes in the adapter plate look nice and Square, your bell housing bosses must have been good?



Thank you Dave

I remembered what you said about the holes, but unfortunately it wasn't until I made the plate.

But as there are pores castings I will make a new bellhousing so the holes will line up

Might make it in 2 pieces 

Michael


----------



## michael-au

Started on a new bellhousing today
First thing to make was a ring with the 4 holes to bolt in on to the rear plate and reassessed for the bellhousing

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Now to the lathe to turn it down to the right thickness 

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Next is to make the bellhousing 

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Need to part it off now and figure out how to turn the inside


----------



## michael-au

Some more progress on the bellhousing 
Turned out the inside

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Put the holding ring on to turn the flange on the bellhousing down to the right size

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Next step was to anodise them black
The bellhousing in the acid tank

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All together 

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Back plate for the water pump finished as well 

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----------



## michael-au

Started on the base today, not ready for it but wanted to do something else other than turning parts

Cut the corian and then the wood, type of wood is pine picture railing

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Next was to lie it together covered the corian and the board it's setup on with glad rap so the glue won't stick to everything 

Nex put glue on the pieces and assemble them, staple the top edge, this is until the glue dries, wrap with wire ties and pull tight, this pulls it into shape and holds it until the glue is dry also
It is sitting upside down at the moment, the next step will to be glue some square pieces around the inside so the corian can be screwed to it

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## michael-au

Stained the wood today,come up ok

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## michael-au

Not much done lately 
Made the rails for the engine mounts, ready to be anodised

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Picture of the work shop just for fun
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## michael-au

Anodised the rails for the engine mount today


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----------



## Swifty

Love the anodising, maybe one day you can give an instruction post on how you do it.

Paul.


----------



## michael-au

Started on the rockers 
Got them all cut now to run them under the surface grinder and then ream the holes to size 

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## michael-au

On holidays in Bali

One of the locals in the resort

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## michael-au

Not much time to work on the peewee over the last couple of months, new castings arrived, looking forward to getting back into it 
But first a holiday in Las Vegas, fly out this weekend


----------



## Davewild

Have a Blast, its on my bucket list of places to visit. Be good to have you building again, cant wait to see your progress.

Enjoy your holiday.

Dave


----------



## michael-au

Davewild said:


> Have a Blast, its on my bucket list of places to visit. Be good to have you building again, cant wait to see your progress.
> 
> Enjoy your holiday.
> 
> Dave




Thank you Dave
Back home from the US , went to Las Vegas, Buffalo, Niagara Falls and New York
Had a great trip

Now getting slowly back into the peewee

Michael


----------



## michael-au

Spent some time in the shed today, machined some of the new castings that arrived for the peewee

These casting are good no holes, looks like the problems have been resolved, would be a great relief for Dirk 

I machined the mating surfaces for the block and the sump

Drills holes to bolt the sump to the block

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Drilled and mounted the Center bearing support 

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Still need to machine the pockets out


----------



## Cogsy

Good to see the castings are useable. I've been trying to find the time to test them so I could let Dirk know their quality. 

I'll be following along again, hoping I get back to mine sometime in the near future.


----------



## michael-au

Things are a bit slow on the V4 at the moment 

Oil pan holes have been drilled and tapped 

Trying to work out the best way on hold the block so I can machine the front and the back, keeping everything square

Started to make a fixture, hopefully will be able to use it on the next project as well 

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Thinking of bolting an angle plate to the mill and then bolting the fixture to the plates, as well as clamping fixture to the mill table at the same time


----------



## Cogsy

Dang, I had a plan and as I was typing it out I realised it wouldn't work... I'll be watching your method with renewed interest. Good luck!


----------



## michael-au

This what I am thinking, everything will be clamped and bolted to the mill 


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----------



## stevehuckss396

Your on the right track, thats how I did mine. Just make sure you remove the oil pan and indicate the bottom of the block and shim the block as needed to make sure the holes are drilled and bored in proper alignment.


I remember what I did now. I clamped the block down on the machined surface where the pan bolts on and clamped it front and back in the center. A very light skim cut was made on the peaks of the head surface where your mini V blocks are until there is just a "touch" from front to back. Without moving the quill or knee do the other side. Now when you bolt the block to the angle plate the block should clamp into perfect alignment. With the lightest cut possible, the cut will disappear when the head surface is machined. To get the block to stand straight up, When the oil pan was machined I machined out the pocket in the pan then the outside of the pan was skim cut just enough to smooth the sides of the rails where the mounts bolt on. That surface was used to indicate up and down to align perfectly.

When the block was machined, I cut the pockets for the crankshaft and then cut across the front and back of the block about 1/4 inch deep leaving .005 to finish. This was done so when the block is setup and cut I knew where to stop. The oil pan also stuck up higher than the block so the oil pan surface was found to get the bore centered on the split and the 2 oil pan rails are used to find center of the block.


I don't have any photos to post so I hope this helps a little. If this is unclear I can do some cad drawings to explain what I did.


----------



## Cogsy

Looks good, should work perfectly. I remembered more about my plan and I think it will work after all, I just confused myself yesterday . So when I machine the bottom of the block for the sump I'll have it squared to the table on the mill (as I assume you did) then I'll bolt the sump on without moving anything. Then I'll use a suitable endmill to square one end of the block/sump combination which I can use when I stand the block up and clamp it to an angle plate. Should be straightforward to machine each end to final dimensions then. Hopefully that'll work...


----------



## michael-au

stevehuckss396 said:


> Your on the right track, thats how I did mine. Just make sure you remove the oil pan and indicate the bottom of the block and shim the block as needed to make sure the holes are drilled and bored in proper alignment.
> 
> 
> I remember what I did now. I clamped the block down on the machined surface where the pan bolts on and clamped it front and back in the center. A very light skim cut was made on the peaks of the head surface where your mini V blocks are until there is just a "touch" from front to back. Without moving the quill or knee do the other side. Now when you bolt the block to the angle plate the block should clamp into perfect alignment. With the lightest cut possible, the cut will disappear when the head surface is machined. To get the block to stand straight up, When the oil pan was machined I machined out the pocket in the pan then the outside of the pan was skim cut just enough to smooth the sides of the rails where the mounts bolt on. That surface was used to indicate up and down to align perfectly.
> 
> When the block was machined, I cut the pockets for the crankshaft and then cut across the front and back of the block about 1/4 inch deep leaving .005 to finish. This was done so when the block is setup and cut I knew where to stop. The oil pan also stuck up higher than the block so the oil pan surface was found to get the bore centered on the split and the 2 oil pan rails are used to find center of the block.
> 
> 
> I don't have any photos to post so I hope this helps a little. If this is unclear I can do some cad drawings to explain what I did.


 
Thank you for the tips Steve, very much apreceated 
Taking a small cut from the peaks of the head surface is a good idea

Michael


----------



## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> Looks good, should work perfectly. I remembered more about my plan and I think it will work after all, I just confused myself yesterday . So when I machine the bottom of the block for the sump I'll have it squared to the table on the mill (as I assume you did) then I'll bolt the sump on without moving anything. Then I'll use a suitable endmill to square one end of the block/sump combination which I can use when I stand the block up and clamp it to an angle plate. Should be straightforward to machine each end to final dimensions then. Hopefully that'll work...



It sounds like a good plan Cogsy


----------



## michael-au

Progress is slow at the moment, don't like this cold weather much 
This is where I'm up to, 

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I will bolt and clamp the whole thing down onto the mill, Mark a Centre line on the block with the sump off
Then make sure it is lined up and square in all directions, then bolt the sump back on, then mill the ends flat and to dimensions 

Might not get much more done this week, heading off to Thailand next week for 2 weeks get out of the cold
My wife has breast cancer it has spread to other parts off her body, so I think some warm weather will be better for her as well
This is some of the reason for the slow down on the peewee, my head is not all ways clear, emotional roller coaster


----------



## michael-au

Here is my setup for drilling out the cam and crank shaft holes

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Machine the front surface to size and Mark out the holes

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Holes drilled and tapped for the font plate

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Recess started for the cam gear

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----------



## michael-au

Finished off the recess for the cam gear

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Next was to drill the cam tunnel out, one drill size under so it could be reamed out

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Then drill the crank shaft tunnel out, one drill size under and then ream the hole to size


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Then mill the idler gear recess out

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----------



## Cogsy

Looking very cool. Are the new castings machining as nice as they look?


----------



## michael-au

Hi Cogsy
Yes the new castings are good and easy to machine, no holes
Very happy with them


----------



## Davewild

Nice work, still havent had any time on mine, got the ignition bench tested the other day distributer spun by hand and fires all four plugs, earning a living keeps interfering with progress.
Great work as always you are getting close now to.


----------



## michael-au

Davewild said:


> Nice work, still havent had any time on mine, got the ignition bench tested the other day distributer spun by hand and fires all four plugs, earning a living keeps interfering with progress.
> Great work as always you are getting close now to.



Thanks Dave
I still have a away to go
Hope you can get back to you build soon, you are ahead of me
Look forward to more pics of build

Michael


----------



## michael-au

Setup and machined the back of the block

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Front and back are now machined to size


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----------



## michael-au

Started to get the block setup so cylinders can be bored
The block is mounted on a rod going through the crank shaft tunnel 

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The dividing head will be set on zero, so it can then be rotated 45 in both directions so the top of the cylinders will be at the same angle from the Center line

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A dial gauge was used to make sure the rod is parallel in both directions ( from the top and from the side of the bar)
The bar is 1/2inch silver steel with a Center hole drilled in each end


----------



## michael-au

The way the block is setup now will be how it will stay until the cylinder bores and head bolt holes are drilled 
Also the top of the block will be machined to the correct dimensions ( from the center of the crank shaft to the top of the cylinders) a small amount will left to machine off after the cylinder liners have been installed, so that the block will be flat all the way across 

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## michael-au

Boring the cylinders and drill and tape for head bolts

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## michael-au

Drill and ream hole for cam followers 

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## michael-au

Drilling the distributor hole and the sump plug

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## michael-au

Drilling holes for water passages

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----------



## michael-au

I made an expanding mandrel to holed the block in the lathe to turn the water cooling passage around the cylinders 

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## michael-au

Turning the cam gear down and re-drilling the grub screw holes

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## michael-au

Pressing the cam gear on

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Pressed the bearing on to the cam gear

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## michael-au

Managed to get a little bit more done this week 
Made the cylinder just need to put them in the block
I will put the block in the oven for a couple of hours and the cylinders in the freezer then hopefully they will slip in to place


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## michael-au

Finally got the cylinders install and machined off level with the block

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Put the block in the oven for an hour at 250 deg and the cylinders in the freezer 
Installed one cylinder at a time put the block back in the oven for around 10 to 15 minutes between cylinders 
The cylinders fell in the block with out any pressure and when the block could they were tight
Now I need to hone the cylinders and then make the pistons and rods


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## Cogsy

Looking sweet! It'll be running in no time...


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## michael-au

Piston blanks ready to machine out the inside of them

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## michael-au

Pistons are almost done, progress is slow at the moment

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## michael-au

Finished off the pistons today 

Set up to make sure the hole for the gudgeon pin is parallel to the vice, so the pocket for the con rod can be mill out

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All the pistons have the pocket mild out

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Machined the spigot off the pistons, and now they are ready for the rings

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3D printed the templates for cutting out the head gaskets 

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## Cogsy

Coming along nicely by the looks. What are you using for the head gasket material?


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## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> Coming along nicely by the looks. What are you using for the head gasket material?



I used High Temperature Gasket Material 300mm x 240mm x 0.25mm

I found it on eBay  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/High-Tem...25mm-/301114252015?hash=item461bcedaef&_uhb=1


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## Cogsy

Thanks Michael, that stuff looks good. I've got some 0.3mm Teflon sheet I'm planning to use for the head gaskets. I used the stuff on my Rupnow vertical and it's relatively easy to cut and punch. I might grab a sheet of the stuff you're using and compare.


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## michael-au

Fixture for machining the con rods 

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## michael-au

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Rods and split bearings done

Have not been doing much in my work shop for the last 7 months
Was a full time career for my wife until she passed away in August 
Starting to try and get back in to it slowly, sometimes hard to find motivation


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## Cogsy

My condolences on your loss Michael. I can't imagine how hard that must be.

Your rods look great, as usual. I just completed my rods last week also, not as nice as yours though. I haven't made the big end bearings yet, so I'll steal your method as I was wondering how to go about it - the main bearing gave me enough trouble to get right and I don't want to repeat that exercise 4 times.


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## ddmckee54

Michael:

My condolences.  I know how you feel, my wife passed away in December 2011.  You are apparently at least starting to deal with your loss since you are getting back into the shop.  I won't say things will get better because I know that right now it sure doesn't feel better to you.  But you'll at least get used to it, which makes it easier to get through the day.

Don


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## Hopper

Condolences from here too. I lost my wife earlier this year, after caring for her through illness for four years. It's a tough haul. It does get better though. And shed therapy is among the best. Keep up the good work. As Robert M Pirsig said in the book "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance", when you are working on a motorcycle, what you are really working on  is yourself. Same applies to model engineering for sure.


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## michael-au

A little bit more done 
Turned the hubs off the gears

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Pistons and rods assembled 

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Fixture was used to support the piston while the Wrist pin was pressed in


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## Cogsy

That is a thing of beauty Michael - the blue heads look incredible! I was going to ask about the fixture but you explained it. Are your wrist pins pressed into the rod or the piston?

I also see you had the same issue with the cam gear as I did, with the original grub screw hole not being completely machined away. It's a pain but at least it won't be seen when the engine is assembled and (to me) it's not worth the effort of boring the hub completely away and machining up a new one.

You must be running out of things to do before it's time to fire it up I'm guessing.


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## michael-au

Thanks Al
I pressed the pins in to the rods, i was going to make circlips to hold them in like i did with the silver bullet, but the pistons are smaller, and i thought it would be a bit hard to groove the hole 

So I just decided to press them in to the rods, looks like it should be ok

I think i will just work on the fitting everything in the block and getting it to turn over smoothly
then finish the heads, the inlet manifold will be last

its slowly getting there

Michael


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## Dubi

Any chance to have someone Black Oxide instead of Gun Blue? Great work by the way.


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## michael-au

The bell housing is black
Not sure if thats what you meant 
That I should have some black parts 

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Just put some together to see hoe it looks


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## michael-au

Rings done

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Lock tight the gear to crankshaft

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## Cogsy

This is looking like the start of final assembly to me . That spacer string between the crank bearing and gear - isn't there supposed to be a seal in there? Have you got another sealing method? I ask because I still haven't been able to source crank seals yet.


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## michael-au

Cogsy said:


> This is looking like the start of final assembly to me . That spacer string between the crank bearing and gear - isn't there supposed to be a seal in there? Have you got another sealing method? I ask because I still haven't been able to source crank seals yet.





Hi Al
The seal goes on the outside of the bearing


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## Cogsy

Ahh, so it goes outboard of the gear. That makes sense, so the gears get some lube too. I *should* have checked my plans...


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## stevehuckss396

Nice work so far! Plan to run 2 bearings on the rear of the crankshaft. It will lock the tail shaft in alignment with the bore and help support the crankshaft in the event the flywheel is a little out of balance.


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## michael-au

stevehuckss396 said:


> Nice work so far! Plan to run 2 bearings on the rear of the crankshaft. It will lock the tail shaft in alignment with the bore and help support the crankshaft in the event the flywheel is a little out of balance.



Hi Steve 
Yes I do have a second bearing for the rear of the crank
The only one i could get is a little wider and sealed both sides, could not get an unsealed one, but it fits ok and will give good support 

Michael


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## michael-au

A little more progress 

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Decided to paint the block and sump black

Installed the valves

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Easy clamp to make, helps to hold small parts when drilling them

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## michael-au

Head gaskets made using 3D printed templates

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## michael-au

Drilling and tapping holes in the rocker arms

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## michael-au

Finally got the intake manifold made just have to do final fitting of it


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## Cogsy

Another step closer. When I saw you'd posted I was half expecting to see you'd fired it up - not that I'm rushing you, I'm just excited!


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## e.picler

Hello Michael!

Very nice work. Congratulations!

I'm also building the same engine, however I'm following the drawings revised by Steve Hucks. There are some differences of some parts due to modifications that Steve provided on the project.

My thread is https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/another-peewee.30419/
I already have some progress done since last post. I think I will be able to post it this week.

Where did you get the distributor cap? I'm planning to machine mine, first draw it on the Fusion360 then machine on the CNC milling using SprutCam to generate the G Code.

Great job! I will be expecting to hear it firing soon as Cosy said.

Tks,

Edi


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## michael-au

e.picler said:


> Hello Michael!
> 
> Very nice work. Congratulations!
> 
> I'm also building the same engine, however I'm following the drawings revised by Steve Hucks. There are some differences of some parts due to modifications that Steve provided on the project.
> 
> My thread is https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/another-peewee.30419/
> I already have some progress done since last post. I think I will be able to post it this week.
> 
> Where did you get the distributor cap? I'm planning to machine mine, first draw it on the Fusion360 then machine on the CNC milling using SprutCam to generate the G Code.
> 
> Great job! I will be expecting to hear it firing soon as Cosy said.
> 
> Tks,
> 
> Edi



I got the distributor cap from Dirk Tollenaar, he sells the Peewee castings


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## stevehuckss396

Roy Sholl at S/S engineering also has 4 cylinder distributor caps.


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## RF78

Looks nice,
I,m following you also,
I must make the distrubitor for the Mastiff.


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## e.picler

Hello RF78!
Do you have a thread here for the Mastiff? I have particular interest becouse I have the Castings for this engine.

Tks,

Edi


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## Saddo

Hi there.
I have just completed a Mastiff. Just have to get around to building the radiator and fuel supply. If you have any questions be pleased to help if I can.
Brian


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## RF78

e.picler said:


> Hello RF78!
> Do you have a thread here for the Mastiff? I have particular interest becouse I have the Castings for this engine.
> 
> Tks,
> 
> Edi


Hi Edi,
Now i,m milling the cilinderheads for the Mastiff.
I got the engine from a friend who past away last march. If you like i can send some pictures.
The engine is a little bigger i build it in mm so an inch is 32  mm on my engine.
Greetings Robert
d


e.picler said:


> Hello RF78!
> Do you have a thread here for the Mastiff? I have particular interest becouse I have the Castings for this engine.
> 
> Tks,
> 
> Edi


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## RF78

I think this answer doesn,t belong at his place.
I,m sorry


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## michael-au

Anodized some more parts today 


























Need to make some pushrods and figure out how to set up the distributor with hall effect sensor and get the timing right

Slow going but getting there


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## Cogsy

Looking great Michael. I'm wondering how to mount the hall sensor as well so I'll be following that part with even more interest. I really need to get some engine mounts made and mount up my engine so I can see how far along I actually am. I think I'm getting close to running of out the major parts to build.


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## minh-thanh

It's very nice !


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## goody

Nice build.    Mount the hall effect sensor in the mounting base I assume you will have slots cut in the main crank pully or the flywheel similar to what is used as a crank position sensor in modern engines.   The other method is similar to that used in printers,  an encoder disk with optical pickup, or hall sensor.


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## michael-au

Rotor button done


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## michael-au

Radiator is done


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## bob shutt

Very nice


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## michael-au

Mounting the Hall effect sensor 
I decided to 3D print a bracket to hold the sensor, I super glued the sensor in the bracket and used a 1mm screw to fix it in to the distributor












They look a bit rough in the close up photos






But hopefully it will work out ok


Spinning the rotor by hand and it seems to fire the sensor every time


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## IC-man

Two observations.
1 if it's close to high voltage it will blow the tx.
2 I always put a small cap and zener diodes in circuit.

I do speak from experience having blown many hall transistors, I now prefer to run the hall transistor from the crank with 2 trigger magnets to keep the transistor well away from HV.
Hope this helps
Graham


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## stevehuckss396

The crank trigger will not work as the firing is not  symmetrical


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## stevehuckss396

I have 3 engines with the hall sensor super glued to the bottom of the distributor body. In 10 years I have never had a sensor blow up. It all comes down to grounding. I bring a #16 wire right off the coil to the engine block. Don't rely on the #24 or what ever it is to give a good ground. Current takes the path of least resistance. Negative ground lead of the coil bonded right to the block is about as "least" as you can get.


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## e.picler

Hi Michael!
Great progress on your building.
I liked your aprouch to fix the Hall Sensor. I was thinking to do the similar thing machining a little pocket in a small piece of Acetall (i do not have 3D printing).
Great work on the radiator as well.

I'm curretly stucked with my PeeWee building because I'm strugling to make my small cnc lathe to work. I have decided to to change the control to Mach3.

Edi


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## IC-man

Ok all I stand corrected, I didn't realise the engine had asymmetric firing. I still stand by the inclusion of cap and zeners though.


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## michael-au

Got the fuel tank done, decided to make clear ends for a different look

And also the tank mounts


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## e.picler

Really very nice looking!!
I did love the combination of the cooper color with the aluminum.
Congratulations.

Michael, how did you fix the hall sensor on the distributor body undernith the Rotor?

Edi


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## michael-au

e.picler said:


> Really very nice looking!!
> I did love the combination of the cooper color with the aluminum.
> Congratulations.
> 
> Michael, how did you fix the hall sensor on the distributor body undernith the Rotor?
> 
> Edi



Hi thank you for the comments 

I used a 1mm self tapping screw to hold it in position
The sensor is super glued in to a 3 D bracket


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## michael-au

Drilled and taped for 2mm Alan bolt
Then cut the slot


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## Johno1958

Wow that all looks good.
John


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## michael-au

Made the water pipe that runs from one side of the block to the other side


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## michael-au

Started on the exhaust flanges, they are made of stainless steal
First turned the blanks on the lathe






Then I made a fixture to hold them so the two holes can be drilled in one operation and then in the next operation the profile can be milled











One blank is a screwed to the fixture and the holes are drilled and then it is moved to the next position and the profile is machined, at the same time another blank is loaded in to the first position, so two can be machined and drilled at the same time 






I know it’s not necessary to do it this way but I am teaching myself CNC and I think this is good practice, and satisfying when it goes right


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## e.picler

Hi Michael!
Very good aproach. I'm also learning CNC programing.
I did the flanges on CNC at one operation. It did work well.
You are right, it is so satisfying when the pieces come out correct.
Good progress on your PeeWee. Mine is on standby since last Christmas.
I did some work this weekend. Will post some photos this week.

Edi


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## michael-au

e.picler said:


> Hi Michael!
> Very good aproach. I'm also learning CNC programing.
> I did the flanges on CNC at one operation. It did work well.
> You are right, it is so satisfying when the pieces come out correct.
> Good progress on your PeeWee. Mine is on standby since last Christmas.
> I did some work this weekend. Will post some photos this week.
> 
> Edi



Thank you Edi

Was able to run the code once today and worked out good











Just needs a quick clean up with some wetrub


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## bluejets

stevehuckss396 said:


> The crank trigger will not work as the firing is not  symmetrical



Would not the placement of magnets on the crankshaft to suit whatever firing arrangement be satisfactory?
After all, it has to fire somewhere in the crank rotation.


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## Cogsy

bluejets said:


> Would not the placement of magnets on the crankshaft to suit whatever firing arrangement be satisfactory?
> After all, it has to fire somewhere in the crank rotation.


You'd have to have 4 magnets on the crank to suit the asymmetrical timing which would mean you would be throwing twice the number of sparks than is required, which can be a problem with some ignitions (limited number of sparks per minute available). Also, at a guess I'd say the extra sparks would potentially interfere with the correct ignition timing (considering you'd still need a distributor).


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## michael-au




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## CNClick

i agree with Cogsy, i had tested a homemade hall circuit, waste fire ignition the other day on a 4 cylinder dummy crank (turned by an electric motor for testing) and it started doing strange things past 40 000 rpm (forty thousand rpm) plus  ... please dont try rev that high Michael... Nice Build By The Way!!!


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## bluejets

CNClick said:


> i agree with Cogsy, i had tested a homemade hall circuit, waste fire ignition the other day on a 4 cylinder dummy crank (turned by an electric motor for testing) and it started doing strange things past 40 000 rpm (forty thousand rpm) plus  ... please dont try rev that high Michael... Nice Build By The Way!!!



40,000 is just a little bit unrealistic for what is being done here , don't you think?
Even with wasted spark arrangement.
I built a straight 4 cylinder 25cc that runs on methanol and glow which will turn 10,000 however rarely seen anything else that will get to that level.
Usually a mass of spluttering much below that.


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## Cogsy

CNClick said:


> i agree with Cogsy, i had tested a homemade hall circuit, waste fire ignition the other day on a 4 cylinder dummy crank (turned by an electric motor for testing) and it started doing strange things past 40 000 rpm (forty thousand rpm) plus  ... please dont try rev that high Michael... Nice Build By The Way!!!



Interesting, would you be willing to share the schematic for the ignition? I was basing my comment on some commercial ignitions I've seen with 12,000 sparks per minute upper limits (so only 6000 RPM for a 4 cylinder without waste spark).


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## bluejets

Cogsy said:


> Interesting, would you be willing to share the schematic for the ignition? I was basing my comment on some commercial ignitions I've seen with 12,000 sparks per minute upper limits (so only 6000 RPM for a 4 cylinder without waste spark).



Used to build these below in conjunction with others on the internet and although they worked quite well for my purpose, could never get much above about 14-15,000.
Just couldn't get the charge into the cap with the circuit as it was.
Have the code buried in a folder somewhere.
Also possible to use without the uC with either points or hall effect.


----------



## stevehuckss396

Here's the problem with wasted spark on a 4 cylinder. Roy had CDI ignitions that could give 15,000 sparks per minute. On a 4 cylinder engine the ignition could work up to 7200 rpm. If you go with the wasted spark arrangement the ignition would be sparking double per rpm so the engine could only turn 3600 rpm before exceeding the max rating of the ignition. If you just trigger off the cam or distributor with magnets you could comfortably turn 5000 rpm without worrying about overworking the ignition. Also the current goes up as the rpm goes up so the battery will last longer because the amp draw on the ignition will be much lower. If you show your engines at the expo's that can make things much easier not having to worry about charging in the middle of a show.


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## bluejets

CDI units, at least the ones I'm familiar with, draw next to nothing compared with conventional ignition.
It is possible to have CDI's that will work quite well way beyond your 15,000 mark however, as I said previously, it would be way beyond that which we work with for many reasons.
However both your and Cogsy's comments are noted and appreciated.
Thanks.


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## stevehuckss396

bluejets said:


> It is possible to have CDI's that will work quite well way beyond your 15,000 mark.
> Thanks.



Who makes one beyond 15,000. I would like to check into that.


----------



## CNClick

There are many 250cc 4 cylinder 4 strokes from the late 1980's that rev around 20 000rpm with a waste fire system as the trigger is on the crank. The rev limit is not about the cdi technical limits, simply an industry standard agreed between Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Honda to regulate power output.i had a FZR 250 with the limiter moved to 22 000rpm by my CDI gurru friend.
Example Below


Suzuki GSXR 250 1987 20,000RPM.

Pardon this is the PeeWee thread so will refrain from more comments here.. That Pee Wee is very sweet, and sure many types of waste fire, crank trigger systems will also work fine on it.


----------



## michael-au

This engine is mostly finished, I have had a lot of trouble with the distributor
It worked ok off the engine but when placed on the engine it would not fire the plugs
I was obviously a shot some where but I could not figure out where
After much messing a round I realised that the hole in the rotor wen right through so the spark was jumping to the distributor shaft, so theres my short
So I 3D print a new rotor with a blank hole, still did fire the plugs when the distributor was on the engine
After a lot of messing around I found the the spark was able to travel right through the 3D print plastic who would have thought (not me)
So new rotor from nylon rod I had and it works fine on and off the engine 

Next problem is that the gear came loose on the distributor whilst try to start it and now the gear is well stuffed 

so the question is does anyone have a spear set of distributor gears for the peewee they would like to sell

I look up the site where the gears a available and I can get 4 for $40 good price but postage to Australia is $48 bit steep


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## glue-itcom

fabulous looking engine and stunning workmanship


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## michael-au




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