# Demon V8 Slow Build



## Maxine (Oct 30, 2011)

I am going to start working on my version of the Huck Demon V8. I won't CAD draw the whole thing but certain parts will be drawn before I start cutting. I will only be able to work on it one evening a week or so so it will be a slow build. So here I go. Working on CAD for the blower right now. Attached is a picture of what I have drawn so far.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Oct 30, 2011)

If there is anything I can do to help, let me know.


----------



## agmachado (Oct 30, 2011)

A great project!!!

Good luck and I will be here watching!

Cheers,

Alexandre


----------



## ozzie46 (Oct 31, 2011)

As will I.

  Ron


----------



## rleete (Oct 31, 2011)

Cool.  I've been a fan of superchargers since I was a kid. So much so, that I went and got one for my Miata.

Interested to see this one take shape.


----------



## Maxine (Nov 12, 2011)

I am making an attempt to do the whole block except the ends in one set up on a 4th axis on my CNC. It's a real learning exercise for me but I am getting there with the programming.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3G3Pbjqy6M[/ame]


----------



## Maxine (Jan 6, 2012)

I finally got my fourth axis installed and started making a few chips. Here is a pic of the engine block after roughing passes. So far, so good.

[ame]http://youtu.be/uMBCUMsNbdc[/ame]


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jan 6, 2012)

That's awesome!  


How did you create the Gcode to use the 4th? Do you have CAM software that will handle a 4th?


----------



## mu38&Bg# (Jan 6, 2012)

Looks great!

Looks like VisualMill?


----------



## Maxine (Jan 6, 2012)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> That's awesome!
> 
> 
> How did you create the Gcode to use the 4th? Do you have CAM software that will handle a 4th?



Thank you Steve, coming from you that means something! I have used Alibre for CAD work ever since it came out and then I added Alibre CAM about three years ago. Yes it is a version of VisualMill that runs inside Alibre. It is not quite as sophisticated as programs like MasterCam but 2 things I really like about it: 1) since it runs inside Alibre if I make any changes to my CAD models the CAM picks up the changes immediately and modifies the tool paths to suit. That saves me a ton of time since I tend to draw and tinker and modify my way along with things as I design them. 2) It is fairly simple to learn and use so if I don't need the very highest end sophisticated tool paths it is quicker and easier for me to get the Gcode done. This is the first part that I cut on my new 4th using full 4th motion (as opposed to just indexing). It was fairly easy to program and so far making the chips has gone well and without error. 

The local sales guy for Solidworks tells me that there is now have a version of MasterCam that runs integral with Solidworks. That didn't exist when I bought Alibre CAM. If I was buying again today I would research both programs but I am definitely happy with what I have and would likely go this way again due to cost. I have been able to program almost any part I want so far with ease and success. One important point though, Alibre CAM does not support lathe tool paths. I use the MasterCam seat that we have at work for lathe stuff or just program parts directly on the lathe control. That's easy on the Haas with Intuitive Programming.

I am looking forward to getting my version of your V8 design done and running Steve. Next up once I put the finish passes on the block (10 thou left for a nice finish pass plus boring all the pockets and drilling/tapping the bolt holes) will be the camshaft and crankshaft. I have the material in hand and I want to program both of those using the 4th axis as well which should work out slick but I haven't drawn them up in CAD yet so it will be a while I guess.  

Cheers and thanks for the compliments!

Maxi


----------



## mu38&Bg# (Jan 6, 2012)

I've never looked at AlibreCam before. It's obviously done by Mecsoft who do VisualMill. The pricing is identical.


----------



## Maxine (Jan 21, 2012)

I haven't had much free time to spend in the shop over the last month but I did make a little progress today.


----------



## Maxine (Jan 28, 2012)

What do the experienced guys here think of using 1144 Stressproof for the CAM on the Demon V8? The Stressproof Rc is in the low to mid 30's if I remember right but I'd have to look it up to be sure. The plans call out tool steel but I am wondering about dimensional stability when hardening. I have used Stressproof for a lot of other stuff like keyed or splined drive shafting and it's been great, but will it wear badly on the CAM lobes? I have some cut off drops of the right size Stressproof on hand as well as some similar sized pieces of 4130, 4140 and 4340. Or I can order up some tool steel for a few bucks. Just looking for advice before I start cutting the CAM. I am planning on making several spares while I have it all set up on the mill so selecting the right material is important up front. Advice and input would be appreciated. I do plan to use stressproof for the crank.

Maxi


----------



## Maxine (Feb 16, 2012)

Too busy at work to spend much time in the shop lately but I did get a few hours in this evening. Got 28 valves made and test heat treated a couple. These were trickier to make than I expected. Slow progress on the Hucks V8 but it's still progress.

Maxi


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2012)

Maxine  said:
			
		

> What do the experienced guys here think of using 1144 Stressproof for the CAM on the Demon V8? The Stressproof Rc is in the low to mid 30's if I remember right but I'd have to look it up to be sure. The plans call out tool steel but I am wondering about dimensional stability when hardening.




Just use the 01 Drill rod for the cam and don't harden. I did it in the peewee and after running 3 years and heavy at show time it still works like new.


----------



## Maxine (Feb 16, 2012)

OK thanks for that advice Steve. I appreciate it. It is timely because I am hoping to have time to make the cam and crank in the next few weeks. I am also ready to make the lobes for the blower. Did you ever get a running version of the blown engine done?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Feb 16, 2012)

Maxine  said:
			
		

> OK thanks for that advice Steve. I appreciate it. It is timely because I am hoping to have time to make the cam and crank in the next few weeks. I am also ready to make the lobes for the blower. Did you ever get a running version of the blown engine done?



No I have not. I have been working 6 days, 10 hours so I have no fun time. I have not been in the garage in months.


----------



## Maxine (Feb 16, 2012)

Yeah I know how you feel. Not much fun/shop time here either lately due to a big capital project at work. That's why I bugged out a few hours early today and went to the shop. In April we start a 50 + day turnaround so I can write off from mid April to early June. Argh! You don't suppose I could be the first to get the blower version running do you? Naw, at the rate I am going it is going to be a long, long build.

Cheers,

Maxi


----------



## Maxine (Jun 22, 2012)

I finally got some time away from work and out into the shop to work on my Demon V8.  Picking the project back up it was time to drill all the holes in the block. I started on the main bearing holes and sure enough on the second hole I snapped the drill bit off. I jumped over to another hole and darn if I didn't snap another. ARGH! Very discouraging as both bits are broken off and stuck down in the the holes. So obviously I need to brush up on the right way to use these very small drill bits. I have very rarely used drills this small. Any advice? I was using a #43, these were brand new bits, 4000 RPM and 2 IPM feed rate, bit held in a ER16 collet. I am using a Haas TM-1 CNC, flood coolant and pecking every 0.1 inches. The depth of these main bearing holes is 0.5". One bit broke off just as it was finishing the last step down, the other broke off on the third peck.

I am hoping this block isn't scrap but I might as well try drilling all the other holes to make sure I get this down right. Many are even smaller than the #43's I was trying today. Then I will try to fish the broken bits out and save the block if I can. 

I am self taught at machining so I sure could use some advice from the pro's on here while I wait for new bits to come from MSC.

Maxi


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jun 22, 2012)

Everybody does it different but I never peck more than the diameter of the bit. A #43 bit is .086 so I would peck .050 - .075. 

I use .050 @ 5 IPM alot and have never broken a bit. I always spot drill first if that means anything.


----------



## Maxine (Jun 22, 2012)

I was just now looking at what GWizard suggests for speeds and feeds. It came up with 4000 RPM and 5.5 IPM for a #43 bit. Maybe I was being too tentative and feeding too slow? Also I will try your suggestion and drop the peck depth down to 0.06 or so but I am still not sure what to do with the feed rate. If I plug a 0.05" bit into GWizard just to compare it with your experience it says 4000 RPM (max on my machine) and 2.8 IPM when your experience says you can feed almost twice that rate. Maybe I just can push the feed rates more than I thought? These bits are so small I was afraid to push too hard. Anyone else have any suggestions or real world experience to share on these small bits?

Thanks for the help Steve. I appreciate the help, after working a ton of hours I was all excited to take a day off and get back at this project ... until those bits broke  

Maxi


----------



## mu38&Bg# (Jun 23, 2012)

Yes, too small a feed. I was reading a thread on a production machining forum and a lot of people feed their drills much too slow it seems. Drilling with too small a feed creates too much heat and the chips weld to the drill. Uncoated drills also work better in aluminum than TiN. From the OSG catalog it looks like you want to be feeding .001 IPR minimum in aluminum, maybe as high as .002 IPR. I recently drilled a few .129" holes on my CNC mill and was surprised at how well it went at ~5k and 10IPM or so(.002IPR). Some of the high performance drills could go .005-.007IPR in aluminum in this diameter range, probably carbide with thru coolant.

Greg

For some crazy drilling performance try this.

[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0yM5fHjxqc[/youtube]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0yM5fHjxqc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0yM5fHjxqc[/ame]

Edit: Fixed youtube link. Don


----------



## Maxine (Jun 23, 2012)

OK thank you for the help. I picked up four #43 and two #50 jobber bits at the local hardware store today and I will go over to my shop tonight and try a variety of higher feed rates in a piece of scrap aluminum to see how it goes. Maybe between 0.001 and 0.002 IPR like you suggest. Wish me luck. At least this will be in scrap and the bulk jobber bits are only a buck a piece. If the holes go well I guess I will try tapping them as well to make sure I have this all down right before I try anything on the block again.

Maxi


----------



## Maxine (Oct 10, 2012)

Well it has been quite a while since I have been able to be in my shop.  I was able to get there today and make the cylinder liners for the V8.  Now I just need to debur them and then hone the ID.  Later this week I hope to finish up drilling and tapping the block.  It is good to be able to work on this project again!


----------



## Maxine (Oct 12, 2012)

It sure is nice to be able to be out in the shop again...


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Oct 13, 2012)

Maxine said:


> It sure is nice to be able to be out in the shop again...


 

Enjoy it. I can't remember the last chance I had to get out and make something.


----------



## Maxine (Oct 14, 2012)

A little more progress today...


----------



## Maxine (Oct 23, 2012)

I had a bunch of 1/4" 6061 aluminum scrap in the shop so I made the main bearing caps and a bunch of connecting rods today.  Later I'll put them in a fixture and face them down to the proper thickness and then ream the bores.


----------



## jerryc (Oct 24, 2012)

Maxine said:


> It sure is nice to be able to be out in the shop again...



I was a Tool&Die maker 1958-2009 My brother was an Insurance man and made projects like this in his basement in spare time. Brother thought I was the luckiest guy in the world to get to do this AND get paid for it.
Now that I'm retired I see what he meant. I'm shopping for a Bridgeport and a small lathe. *Glad I found this site*.


----------



## Maxine (Oct 24, 2012)

Welcome Jerry!  It sounds like you have tons of skills and advice to offer to those of us who are self taught hobby types.  I enjoy this because it challenges my skills and I am learning something new every day.  As you say, if I was paid for it I would be really happy. Good luck finding your new shop equipment.


----------



## Maxine (Oct 28, 2012)

I made some rings today just to test out the method since I have never done that before.  They came out fine but when fitting them to a piston I found that the ring groves in the pistons I made aren't the right width.  They are about 15 thou instead of the required 20 thou.   I originally bought a mini grooving tool from Little Machine shop but they didn't have 20 thou blades ... they only had 15 thou blades for it.  So I used the 15 thou ones and plunged in twice with a 5 thou step over between plunges.  The blade must have deflected into the existing groove (from the first plunge) on the second plunge leaving me with a slightly tapered groove only about 15 or 16 thou wide as I said.

Today I tried grinding my own blade for a cut off tool holder that I have but I had a lot of trouble getting down to 20 thou accurately.  I tried three times but couldn't get satisfactory results so I set it aside for the day. 

Long story for a simple question.  What tools or methods would the experts here suggest for cutting (or recutting) these narrow ring groves?  Any help or advise would be appreciated.

Maxi


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Oct 28, 2012)

KBC tool has .019 inserts for there Nikcole holders. I plunged in, moved over and then came back out. If you cant get them you could make the grooves and rings wider for there .027 or .032 inserts.

http://www.niko-nikcole.com/standar_grooving_inserts.htm


----------



## GailInNM (Oct 28, 2012)

Maxi,
It is difficult to grind thin grooving tools offhand on a grinder.  For  narrow shallow grooves I have used various high carbon steel blades in improvised holders.  Keep the unsupported projecting part of the blade as short as possible.

An Xacto #10 or 11 blade is 0.020 wide.  Utility knife blades vary a bit by brand but are about 0.025.My single edge razor blades are 0.009 wide.  Some people have used hacksaw blades.

All will have to be ground to shape and sharpened.  This will be a bit slow as it is easy to get the blade too hot and remove the temper from the blade.

Gail in NM


----------



## Maxine (Oct 29, 2012)

Thanks for the help gents.  I am ordering some of the Nikcole 0.019"  inserts but in the meantime I rummaged around and found a #10 Xacto blade as suggested.  I ground just the very tip into a grooving shape and gave it a try just for grins.  Now don't laugh at my rinky dink set up.  To try it out I just tightened the blade up really tight, clamped the whole Xacto knife into a spare cheapo boring bar holder that I had sitting in a drawer and gave it a shot.  It actually worked fine.  The rings fit just fine now on that test piston.  I think that I will wait for the proper inserts to come to finish regrooving the rest of the pistons though.

Some pictures are attached that show the piston before and after regrooving.

Again thanks for the advice.

Maxi


----------



## Maxine (Nov 3, 2012)

I made a fixture to cut the ring grooves today.  I didn't want to do them one at a time.  It consists of a mandrel that the ring ID just fit over, two spacers so I can capture the stack of rings tight, and a cap that is a slip fit over the OD of the rings to hold them in place.  The cap also compresses the spacers slightly so the stack of rings is held firm while milling.  Then a slot of the proper width was milled.  It worked out good, a nice pile of rings with identical grooves is the result.


----------



## Maxine (Nov 13, 2012)

Drilled and tapped the 4-40 and 2-56 holes in the block today as well as milling a few other details on the block.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YapBzFL86Uc&feature=youtu.be


----------



## Maxine (Nov 16, 2012)

This is an operation that I had been holding off on for a while.  It's not so complex for seasoned machinists maybe but reaching down inside the cylinder bores with a 5/8" diameter cutter that had little clearance to mill out the internal water jackets was bugging me.  I didn't want to mess it up.  I worked up my nerve and got it done today and it worked out just fine.

 [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wp_3y-WKiQs&feature=plcp[/ame]


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Nov 17, 2012)

Very cool! I did mine manually. I like your way better.


----------



## student_Machinist (Nov 17, 2012)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Very cool! I did mine manually. I like your way better.



Ive just started the block, im not at that stage yet but ive been trying to work out how to cut the water jackets. the only way i can think of at the moment with out cnc is to center each cylinder bore on a rotary table and spin the hole block around, is this how you did it?


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Nov 17, 2012)

pm me your email address and i'll send you a pdf


----------



## ozzie46 (Nov 18, 2012)

Thanks for the pdf.  Steve very informative.

  Ron


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Nov 18, 2012)

ozzie46 said:


> Thanks for the pdf. Steve very informative.
> 
> Ron


 

Your welcome! I was thinking the PDF might help in the future. The original is a 5 page piece here with all the pictures except the water jacket illistration. 

http://www.modelengineeringwebsite.com/Little_Demon_V-8.html


----------



## Maxine (Nov 27, 2012)

Spent a bit of time today prepping the cam blank for machining the lobes.  I am going to try making the lobes on the 4th axis.  I will give that a go tomorrow.  Hopefully it will work OK.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Nov 27, 2012)

Did you rough out the cam using a CNC?


----------



## Maxine (Nov 27, 2012)

Yes.  That picture is the cam blank on my CNC lathe.  I just need to turn the ends of the cam down to size and then it will go on the mill.  I am really curious to see how milling the lobes on the 4th axis will work out.  Hopefully I will be able to make the crank the same way.  I'm learning a lot as I work through this project.  Thanks for the plans!


----------



## aonemarine (Nov 27, 2012)

what cnc mill do you have???


----------



## Maxine (Nov 28, 2012)

It is a Haas TM-1.  The machine will do the work I am sure.  It is the rookie programmer I am wondering about.  I have found that the CNC will do exactly what you tell it to, even when it's wrong...


----------



## aonemarine (Nov 28, 2012)

Man some guys get all the cool toys..... Is it an Allison?  I'm not real good on identifying those beasts.


----------



## Maxine (Dec 1, 2012)

I got the camshaft done today.  It came out good.  Programming that part was a big milestone for me so I'm real happy.

[ame]http://youtu.be/CxXJRQBUL5k[/ame]


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Dec 1, 2012)

Good deal!

How long did it take to complete cutting the lobes.


----------



## Maxine (Dec 1, 2012)

Right about 40 minutes.  I could speed things up a bit.  First time cutting a part with new code I always use 5% rapids, relatively light cuts with reduced feed rate.  Maybe it could be done in 25 or 30 mins by someone with more expertise than I have?  I am not sure.  It's pretty small diameter so I'm guessing that I couldn't take too hard of a cut.  I am just really glad I got it figured out.  Now on to attempting to make the crank.  Again, thanks for the plans!


----------



## aonemarine (Dec 1, 2012)

Nice job, Im trying to get into cnc now. If there was a smiley that spun around then fell flat on its face, that would be me after reading up on g code....


----------



## Maxine (Dec 20, 2012)

I managed to get a little more shop time today and I got the oil pan done, drilled and reamed the crankshaft bore, reamed the camshaft bore and started working on some of the details on the front of the block.  I still get the heebie-geebies drilling and tapping the really small holes like the 2-56 ones in these pics.  Got them done just fine though so maybe I am getting the feeds and speeds for the small drill bits down finally.  Two  two more holes to drill and tap on the front of the oil pan.  I forgot to put those on my CAD drawing so I will have to fix that tonight.  Sorry for the crummy cell phone pics, I bought a camera for the shop but the batteries were dead this morning.


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Dec 20, 2012)

Maxine said:


> I still get the heebie-geebies drilling and tapping the really small holes like the 2-56 ones in these pics.


 

Wait until you get to the 0-80's !!!


----------



## Maxine (Dec 20, 2012)

Can I do those itty bitty ones last ... please?  PLEASE! 

The thing that gets me the most is that once the CNC starts the tapping cycle you can not stop it with the feed hold until it's through the cycle.  My machine taps best at about 750 rpm so it goes down into the hole pretty fast even with a 56 TPI thread.  I find myself holding my breath every time those little taps go into the hole.  Can't help it.  So far, so good though.


----------



## Maxine (Dec 21, 2012)

I made it back to the shop today and finished machining the remaining details  on the front of the block.  Yes Steve including drilling and tapping  the four 0-80 holes.  It went smoothly.  I am pretty happy with that bit  of progress.


----------



## e.picler (Dec 22, 2012)

Hello Maxine! Cheers from Brasil.
Great, great job.
I also purchased the plans for this engine I really love this project and I can`t wait to start producing some ships for this project but it still will take some time because I`m right now in the middle of another project. I`m building the Tiny 4 inline from (project from Kel). I decided to build this engine first because I did not have any experience in building any engine and the TI4 is less complex due to being a in line configuration.
I`m also struggling with the small taps. By the way every thing in this engine is so small. But I`m having a lot of fun building it. I also don`t have much time to dedicate to the project, I work very few hour on week nights and some more on weekends. I`m posting my progress under the title BUILDING OF TINY INLINE 4 IN BRAZIL.
Congratulations for your superb job. Keep sending the pics.

TKS,
Edi


----------



## Maxine (Dec 22, 2012)

e.picler said:


> Hello Maxine! Cheers from Brasil.
> Great, great job.
> I also purchased the plans for this engine I really love this project and I can`t wait to start producing some ships for this project but it still will take some time because I`m right now in the middle of another project. I`m building the Tiny 4 inline from (project from Kel). I decided to build this engine first because I did not have any experience in building any engine and the TI4 is less complex due to being a in line configuration.
> I`m also struggling with the small taps. By the way every thing in this engine is so small. But I`m having a lot of fun building it. I also don`t have much time to dedicate to the project, I work very few hour on week nights and some more on weekends. I`m posting my progress under the title BUILDING OF TINY INLINE 4 IN BRAZIL.
> ...



Thank you for the compliments!  I have been watching your build.  I like the way you did your fan.  Good idea.  I may copy that method.  Also your detailed photo series on how you did the con rods was helpful to me.  I may go back and redo mine using that method.  As you say building these little engines is a real challenge but also fun and rewarding.


----------



## Maxine (Dec 28, 2012)

I finally got all the drilling and tapping done on the block and oil pan.  Whew!  So now the block, oil pan, camshaft, cylinder liners, pistons, rings, wrist pins and rods are done.  On to the crankshaft and heads.


----------



## agmachado (Dec 29, 2012)

Very cool !


----------



## Maxine (Jan 15, 2013)

I prepped a 1" diameter stressproof  bar for the crank shaft today by offset center drilling both ends.  But I do not own a 4 jaw chuck.  A 4 jaw is the only set up I have witnessed in use for offset turning. What sort of fixturing should I be looking to make for the driven (chuck) end of the stock using my 3 jaw?  I know I saw some pictures of a nice fixture on here somewhere but of course now I can't find them.  Any advice would be much appreciated.    

Maxi


----------



## alihureiby (Jan 16, 2013)

that's look prety cool Maxine, keep sharing.
ali


----------



## vcutajar (Jan 16, 2013)

If you drilled the offsets at both sides how about between centres.  This is how I held it for my Kiwi.


----------



## Maxine (Jan 16, 2013)

Hmmm OK.  I just feared with the weight of the off center stock swinging in the lathe (and the interrupted cutting action) that holding it between centers might not hold the part secure enough.  Not so with your part huh?  Maybe I am over thinking this by trying to come up with a fixture.  Or just being a chicken...


----------



## idahoan (Jan 16, 2013)

Same thing here; I used a piece of soft wire to tie the blank to the drive dog. The key to lessoning the intrrupted cut is to mill most of the material away before turning the throw.

Dave


----------



## bob shutt (Jan 16, 2013)

Here is my setup for the crank. just used home made lathe dog. I use low temp melting metal for th spacing but it wanted to melt out.


----------



## Maxine (Jan 16, 2013)

OK gents thanks for the advice.  I am going to mount the stock between centers tomorrow and give it a test spin to see how secure it looks.


----------



## e.picler (Mar 3, 2013)

Hi Maxine!
For my project, I`m planning to machine a round fixture that can be hold on a 3 jaw chuck than mill a hole off center with the throw of the crank, tap a hole to fix it on fixture. Use a round piee of brass to shim the screw to avoit it demage the crank shaft.
I hope it helps you.

Edi


----------



## Maxine (Mar 4, 2013)

Thanks for the advice Edi.  I was making real good progress on my Demon V8 but when I got to the crank I hit a wall and have made no further progress at all in about 6 weeks.  I had the blank for the crank shaft all blued and marked out and mounted between centers on the lathe.  It sat there for about a week but I never worked up my confidence enough to try turning it.  Finally I needed the lathe to turn and thread a piece for another project so I took the blank out and set it aside.  I may just switch to making the heads, the rocker arms, the valve guides etc and come back to the crank later.   I don't really know why I'm so stuck on this but it stopped me cold.  I do like your idea.  I might make an offset fixture for the three jaw like you are planning to do and see how that looks.


----------



## Maxine (Jun 11, 2013)

Caught a little shop time today and got one head done.


----------



## e.picler (Jun 23, 2013)

Hi Maxine!
Congratulation, you are progressing very well.
I really like your method of making almost everything using the 4th axis.
I just installed the 4th axis on my mill and plan to use it as much as can. 
I`m using the Master Cam. I still don`t know how to use it well. I purchased a DVD training with a book. So far I`ve learned the basics.
I have a friend that teaches Master Cam, he is going to give some lessons on how to program the 4th axis on the Master Cam.
I`m just waiting to receive the SIEG iKC4 CNC Lathe I purchased so I can learn the lathe programming as well.
I also plan to machine the camshaft and crankshaft on the 4th axis.
For sure I will ask you some help.

Great and wonderful work!

Edi


----------



## Maxine (Jun 23, 2013)

Thanks Edi.  Do ask away if you have questions.  I have used Master Cam in the past but the work I am doing on this engine is all done in Alibre.  I did make my camshaft completely on the 4th axis and it came out really well.  I may do my crankshaft on the 4th axis as well, I'm not sure yet.  For many of the parts on this engine using the 4th axis saves a lot of set ups.  I just added mine to my mill a year or so ago and it has been interesting learning how to use it.  I like it a lot and have used it for several projects besides the little V8.

Good luck with your build.  It's a great project and the plans are really well done.


----------



## Maxine (Jul 5, 2013)

Just a picture that I like...


----------



## agmachado (Jul 5, 2013)

Very cool!!!


----------



## rrocky (Dec 24, 2018)

Hullo Maxine, would you share your G code for the demon V8 camshaft cheers rrocky, [email protected]


----------



## martynb1 (Apr 23, 2019)

hi maxine would you share any g code for you engine


----------



## rrocky (Jun 1, 2020)

Maxine said:


> Thank you Steve, coming from you that means something! I have used Alibre for CAD work ever since it came out and then I added Alibre CAM about three years ago. Yes it is a version of VisualMill that runs inside Alibre. It is not quite as sophisticated as programs like MasterCam but 2 things I really like about it: 1) since it runs inside Alibre if I make any changes to my CAD models the CAM picks up the changes immediately and modifies the tool paths to suit. That saves me a ton of time since I tend to draw and tinker and modify my way along with things as I design them. 2) It is fairly simple to learn and use so if I don't need the very highest end sophisticated tool paths it is quicker and easier for me to get the Gcode done. This is the first part that I cut on my new 4th using full 4th motion (as opposed to just indexing). It was fairly easy to program and so far making the chips has gone well and without error.
> 
> The local sales guy for Solidworks tells me that there is now have a version of MasterCam that runs integral with Solidworks. That didn't exist when I bought Alibre CAM. If I was buying again today I would research both programs but I am definitely happy with what I have and would likely go this way again due to cost. I have been able to program almost any part I want so far with ease and success. One important point though, Alibre CAM does not support lathe tool paths. I use the MasterCam seat that we have at work for lathe stuff or just program parts directly on the lathe control. That's easy on the Haas with Intuitive Programming.
> 
> ...


----------



## rrocky (Jun 1, 2020)

Hullo would you share your files for crankshaft 

[/QUOTE]


----------



## Salihh21 (Oct 29, 2021)

Merhaba motor planı *pdf* paylaşırmısınız


----------



## Layne Leinster (Nov 9, 2021)

vcutajar said:


> 如果您在两侧钻孔，中心之间的偏移量如何。这就是我为我的新西兰人举行的方式。
> 
> View attachment 59755
> 
> ...


----------

