# More pictures from the shop



## mklotz (Jan 15, 2009)

More random odds and ends from my shop. I hope they provide some inspiration for someone.

Every shop probably has baby food jars (or the equivalent) full of small parts. You have to dump it out to find what you want. Then you need to put it all back in the jar.
It's easy to build a sorting tray from wood scraps.







Dump the jar in the tray, find what you want, then tilt the tray to funnel everything back into the container.

After making this, of course, HF started selling them...






This is an old boat modeler's trick. If you want to trace the outline of an irregular 3D object onto a two dimensional surface (e.g., making tool cutouts in a drawer liner), this is the tool of choice...
















It's just a block of wood with a hole drilled through at an angle. The hole admits a pencil and holds it so its point is beneath the apex of the angle cut into the wood. In use, the apex is slid along the object being traced and its outline is projected onto the paper.






At the top is a gage I made for checking wood chisel angles. It has angle "pockets" of 15,20,25 and 30 degrees. Made of aluminum to avoid dulling the freshly sharpened chisel edge, it's used by sliding the chisel tip into the appropriate slot and holding it up to the light to check the angle.

Below are two chunks of key stock with common angles cut on the end - 15,30,45 and 60 degrees. Handy for checking tools like dovetail cutters, etc.. They don't replace a protractor but they're easier to use in many cases.

If you make small models, here's a tool that you'll love. It's called an insert vise and, as you can see, is quite tiny. I find it easier to mount small parts in this on my bench and then plop the whole thing into the milling vise. It's also handy to hold a part in the 4jaw on the lathe.











A tiny hand puller I made to use when repairing dial indicators and the like...






Commercial tap guides like the one shown at the top are pricey but it's easy to make your own. Mine has an adjustable height sleeve, windows for observing the tap and a V-groove for working on round stock. Sleeves can be made for other size tap wrenches.











Although I do it, I don't like to use the edge of my calipers for marking out. When I do a lot of it (which I don't much now), I use this. The sliding bar can be set to length with the calipers and locked with the thrumbscrew. Then the end of the bar is used to guide the scribe to make the mark.






Detail of the clamping mechanism...






Now that you've all built those ball cutters, here's something useful to make with them.






It's a wiggler used to align work in the 4jaw. The steel holder is held in the toolholder and the brass ball seats in the conical hole in the holder. The short end of the rod goes in the mark to be centered. As you rotate the chuck (by hand) the other end of the rod traces out a magnified circle around the tailstock center. When that circle reduces to zero diameter, you've got your part centered. Too fiddly for me - I use a pump center as described in a recent thread.

And, finally, my mill/drill had a slippery plastic knob one tightened to engage the fine downfeed. PIA, especially with oily hands. I replaced it with a toggle clamp with a nice long handle. Next to the DIs on all three axes, the best improvement to that tool I've made.


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## steamer (Jan 15, 2009)

I really like the toggle lock Marv, Anything that speeds set ups and operation on a machine and avoids grabbing a wrench really pays dividends.


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## T70MkIII (Jan 16, 2009)

Nice ideas Marv - thanks for posting, and please keep them coming.


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## ChooChooMike (Jan 16, 2009)

> If you make small models, here's a tool that you'll love. It's called an insert vise and, as you can see, is quite tiny. I find it easier to mount small parts in this on my bench and then plop the whole thing into the milling vise. It's also handy to hold a part in the 4jaw on the lathe.



Yup, that little vise comes in REALLY handy for small parts. Put part in this vise and you can then move from one setup to another very easily ! Used it a couple of times on my engines. Didn't think about using in a 4-jaw, but makes perfect sense 

Enco link for insert vise - $47






Mike


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## itowbig (Jan 20, 2009)

ya thanks marv i sure can use the wood thingy idea going out to shop and make me one. any chance of getting a drawing for the small vice.
i think i can make one. i have drawings for a large one but no material.
ill try my luck to scale down the large one but my skills are not that great yet.
any who thank you for the pics great ideas.


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## mklotz (Jan 20, 2009)

It's not worth making one when you can buy one for less than $50.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=505-2240&PMPXNO=949804


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## DavHJ (Jan 20, 2009)

Marv,
 I noticed in one of your shop pics. the engine frame for the "Bill Harris Steam Roller"
How far along are you?
I'm building it also I'm almost done I have the steam engine done but it is not assembled or mounted yet.
Here is a pic.


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## mklotz (Jan 20, 2009)

I've only just begun. The frame and some parts for the crank are the sum total of my meager output.

Due to its size, it's my "back burner" project. I only work on it when I'm held up on other things.

Yours looks fantastic - wish I were that far along. Be sure to provide pics when you're done.


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## rleete (Jan 20, 2009)

Dave, that's nice. Please post a build in process thread with more pictures.


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## Maryak (Jan 20, 2009)

Dave,

That is a very nice model of a steam roller. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## DavHJ (Jan 20, 2009)

Thanks for all the nice comments so far that is the only pic that I have but as i progerss I'll add more.
This so far has ben a ten year project Hopefully I will finish soon.
Like you Marv it is a back burner project.
Thanks,
Dave


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## te_gui (Jan 20, 2009)

Not to distract from the thread but I am midway thru a Bill Harris roller too. I have the chassis and boiler done and a little bit of engine work. Anyone else?


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