# how to file aluminum without file plugging



## Aquarius21

Greetings, I did it again! I grabbed a smile file to enlarge a hole,
forgot to check under the paint and soon realized it was my
old friend aluminum filling up my file. One minute to file,
ten minutes to clean out every single groove of the file. 
I have yet to see a hardware store carry an aluminum file
up here in Canada. I have heard of charging the file with chalk.

Any suggestions on proper filing of aluminum, and any Canadian sources
of files?

Thanks, Quincy, Nova Scotia


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## Stan

In general, hardware stores don't carry high quality tools. They are catering to the homeowner who wants it cheap. For the last forty years, I have not seen good quality taps, dies, drill bits or files, except for the chain saw brand name files. There must be industrial supply stores somewhere in your area. My experience is that they have no problem selling retail once they know that you are looking for quality and pay cash.


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## gbritnell

First off, there are many grades of aluminum out there. The harder ones 6061,7075 file quite well without loading the file. Other types of aluminum like can be found in aluminum plate and cast aluminum are very gummy and stick to a file quite easily. 
I was taught to rub a piece of chalk across the file and this would help keep the aluminum from sticking or pinning, this of course with a mill or fine cut type file. I have never tried it with a bastard cut. 
The worst thing about pinning is that when you take a second pass across the piece you are filing it will make a scratch in the surface, sometimes quite deep. 
gbritnell


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## kustomkb

I prefer Nicholson files, rub with chalk or welders soap stone.
Clean them on copper. Or brass cartridges squashed flat.

Ackands carries them;

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/agi/_/N-1z12l99/Ne-67l/Ntt-nicholson?JSESSIONID=2wRvM2CZRpJvVHVny7kD6JthKXj5GT2fQN5y2BMv2DZB8W6LkJkT!-442415833!1282851449028&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial


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## Deanofid

Load it with chalk. Get a file card to clean it.
Don't use the file like a saw. Stroke one way, lift off the work pulling it back.


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## deverett

I have had some success by using WD40 as a lubricant when filing - just like machining the stuff.

A piece of copper pipe beaten flat and rubbed along the teeth will clean it if it loads up. Better using that than a steel file card, which in time will blunt the file teeth. 

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## bearcar1

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Load it with chalk. Get a file card to clean it.
> Don't use the file like a saw. Stroke one way, lift off the work pulling it back.



Dean ol' buddy, you said a mouthful there, especially the "don't use the file like a saw" I've seen too many knuckleheads blasting away on a piece of metal like there is no tomorrow with files like that and then they complain that their files don't cut worth a darn. I can't imagine why as I smile smugly and and reply "yeah, that's too bad"


BC1
Jim


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## Deanofid

steamdave  said:
			
		

> A piece of copper pipe beaten flat and rubbed along the teeth will clean it if it loads up. Better using that than a steel file card, which in time will blunt the file teeth.
> 
> Dave
> The Emerald Isle



I've never had a file card hurt my Nicolson or Heller files, and have been using the same files
for years. Maybe the cards are made differently in different countries.


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## walnotr

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Load it with chalk. Get a file card to clean it.
> Don't use the file like a saw. Stroke one way, lift off the work pulling it back.



I have to differ with the the don't use it like a saw comment, at least somewhat. I worked on aircraft for many years and primarily with aluminum. The best way to keep the file clean (besides a file card) was to lightly drag the file on the back stroke when filing aluminum. Steel and titanium is a different matter, the file will quickly glaze if drug on those materials.

To quote the Aircraft Mechanics Pocket Manual: "As the file teeth point forward, the file only cuts on the forward stroke. On the return stroke the file should be raised slightly to prevent dulling the teeth. Note: In filing soft material such as aluminum, dural, lead, etc. the file _shouild_ be drawn back over the metal as the teeth are cleaned on this stroke."

That method has worked for me for many years and I still have many of my original files. Some materials such as 5052-H14 or 1100 do require frequent cleaning of the file as they are simply way too gummy for even a back stroke to fully clean the teeth.

Steve C.


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## IanN

Hi,



			
				bearcar1  said:
			
		

> I've seen too many knuckleheads blasting away on a piece of metal like there is no tomorrow with files like that and then they complain that their files don't cut worth a darn. I can't imagine why as I smile smugly and and reply "yeah, that's too bad"
> 
> BC1
> Jim



It is worth remembering surface cutting speeds when filing. Taking the example of steel - cutting 60 FPM with a 12 inch file is one forward stroke per second (and if you take the same time to go back to the start of each stroke, that is two seconds per cycle).

Efficient filing is achieved at much slower stroke rates than you at first think.

Ian.


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## Blogwitch

Being from the same background as Steve C above, we never used chalk for general filing, it was only used when getting a very fine finish when draw filing.

No lubrication used at all and as stated, for soft materials, scrape back the teeth on the parent metal.

We are talking about communal files being used over the shifts for hour after hour, not maybe an hour every so often, scratch cards were used all the time with no problems.

Most favoured file, half round 8", with that you could profile almost anything, and still do.


Bogs


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## Lew Hartswick

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Load it with chalk. Get a file card to clean it.
> Don't use the file like a saw. Stroke one way, lift off the work pulling it back.



Well I would add to that don't use a SAW like that either. Especially a hacksaw.
The teeth on a hacksaw are just like the teeth on a file. The saw should be either
lifted or let float on the return stroke. Now wood saws don't suffer quite as much 
from being drug backwards across the material due to the much softer material.
  ...lew...


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