# Potty Over Crank Wall Engine



## SBWHART (Jan 14, 2011)

Started to cut metal for this engine: for those of you who didn't pick it up her's my thread on the design

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=3990.0

And a pic of the engine the model will be based on.







Using a chunk of brass donated by John:- thanks John   first square it up and bring it to size with a fly cutter.











Then with a 18mm end mill cut a couple of scallops down the sides, 






Then set the boring bar up to cut a 12.5 mm rad






Open the scallops out to 12.5 mm rad






And counter bore them out to 15 mm rad






so you've got this






Then turn up a couple of brass spools that fit into the scallops






And you've got your self a twin cylinder.






Well you will have when you've silver soldered them together thats a job for the week end :- if I can sneak away, our son and wife are staying with our new baby granddaughter, so we will have a string of visitors ho-ing and ar-ing, and doesn't she look like youing.

     

Really looking forward to it

Stew


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## ChooChooMike (Jan 14, 2011)

Is the 1st picture upside down ? Or are you from the Land of Oz ? :big:


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## tel (Jan 14, 2011)

Off to a flying start Stew, I'll be watching with interest.


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## SBWHART (Jan 14, 2011)

ChooChooMike  said:
			
		

> Is the 1st picture upside down ? Or are you from the Land of Oz ? :big:



Nope

The engine was slung under a beam, here's a better pic. They were usually fixed to the wall of the work shop.






Stew


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## SBWHART (Jan 19, 2011)

After a hectic few days I needed a bit of r and r in the shed, but it was really great having all the family together. 

Made a start on soldering the bits for the cylinder together, for those of you who missed it in my loco boiler thread this is the kit a I used to solder.

I hearth cobbled together from an old ally baking tray, thermalite blocks from B and Q, a propane burner with a large nozzle fitted a bucket of water for quenching, some easy flo solder and tenacity flux, the barrel is just there to keep everything at a handy height.






I solder one cylinder at a time building a little wall around it to keep the heat in.






Both ends done I just opened up the wall so that it would cool quicker after five minutes I quenched it in the water and put it in the acid pickle for 1/2 hr.






This it it all soldered up






Then I just cleaned one end up with a fly cutter, the other end I plugged the bores with some nuggets of ally secured with loctite






Set it back up in the mill and cleaned them all up again with the fly cutter, they picked the datum edges found the position for the cylinder centre line and centre drilled into the nuggets.






To machine the bores I'm going to set the cylinders up in an angle plate on the lathe face plate.

So first job clamp the cylinder up nice and square in the angle plate, I won't slacked the clamp bolts until both cylinders are bored this will ensure that cylinders are parallel.






Remove the parallels and clamp the angle plate to the face plate, I'm just using the centre to help hold thing in place and roughly get position. (its one of those jobs you wish you had three hands) just tighten the clamps lightly






Add counter balance weights I've found the best way to check the balance is to disconnect the head stock from the drive remove the belt or disengage the gear which ever way your machine work, and give the face place a spin with your hand, what your after is for it to come to rest in a radome position if it stop in the same place move the weight or add more weight until you get it balanced.






Using a wobble bar between the centered nugget and a running centre clock the bar up tap the angle plate until it running true, and you've got the cylinder positioned, tighten all the clamps.






Now face plate work is probably the most hazardous job you can do on a lathe bits can fly off and do a you a real nasty, so make sure everything is nice and tight and can't come adrift, before you switch the power on, turn the lathe over by hand making sure nothing can catch, and check that you've got the speed set on slow, and stand to one side when you switch it on just in case.

OK everything nice and safe stick a drill down the bore to get rid of the ally nugget. and bore to size






Thats the first bore done the R and R for tomorrow is the second bore to do that just move the angle plate over clock position up with a wobble bar and bore it out, the cylinders will come out perfectly parallel.

Stew


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## SBWHART (Jan 20, 2011)

Got right down to doing number 2 bore this morning just a mater of repositioning the angle plate on the face plate and clocking up on the centre.






And boring it out, I like to sneak up onto the size taking smaller cuts as I get closer and run the final cut through a couple of times to take the spring out of the bar, I don't worry too much about getting exact size as long as its within 0.1mm I'm happy Its far easier to make the pistons to fit.

Her we have them both done






Then over to the mill I left it set up with the stops so it should locate close to where I left it but decided to check bore position before I started the next op using a coaxial indicator.






It was went back within 0.2 so got it back on zero then first centre drill followed M2.5 tapping drill for the cylinder covers, be careful you don't end up with a hole where the air gallery will go, I did this on my first engine a built a few years back, you live and learn.






Tap M2.5 using the tapping stand to get everything nice and square.






Then drill and tap M5 on the underside to take the feet.






As it would make the cylinder a difficult shape to hold I left angling the valve port face till last.
I just angle the cylinder block 15 deg in the vice and milled off the meat.






At this point I was gasping for a cuppa so decided to leave milling the valve ports until tomorrow when I'll be fresh.

Stew


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## SBWHART (Jan 20, 2011)

Thanks Pat

My lathe is a 3 in 1 so its got a huge swing for its size so I can get a set up like that in the space, I removed the mill drill when i got my mill, doing it in the lathe gives you the power feed which helps getting a good finish, most mills don't have verticle power feed.

The method is used a lot for twin inside loco cylinders It's how I machined the cylinders for my loco.

Cheers

Stew


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## Deanofid (Jan 20, 2011)

It's getting along nice, Stew. Thanks for the pics and words.
I like your sign; Our Father.. Who Art in His Shed. 
Sounds like your family knows you well!


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## SBWHART (Jan 21, 2011)

Thanks Dean

The sign was a birthday card from our son, couldn't resist the temptation of hanging it up.

:big:

Stew


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## SBWHART (Jan 21, 2011)

Thanks for the interest Guys

Milling the valve ports:- this is what I call a **** or bust job its easy to get things wrong then your in it deep.

So I like to mark the ports out this doesn't have to be dead accurate you'r just using this as a guide so that you get the wide port in the middle and the narrow ones at the ends and that the spacing is about right, I also like to make myself a crib sheet showing the cordinates I'm going to use.

I work from the centre of the valve face so first thing is find the centre and zero up the DRO in the x and y.






The middle port is 5 mm wide and the outer are 3.5 mm

Index to the correct cordinate:- centre drill and drill to depth using a number drill, thats just smaller than the slot drill, this stops the slot drill pulling into the corner and giving the port a hockey stick end.






Then using slot drill mill out the ports, as the valve face is angled each port is milled to a diverent depth, I took them considerable deeper than I planned on the drawing but with the actual job in my hand I had a brain wave on how to connect the ports up something that troubled me when I did the drawing as I was unsure how to do it.







Now the brain wave was :smart: drill into the ports from the side, and drill through from the top of the bore to join it up, screw and plug the inlet ports to seal them up, the exhaust is left open.

Finding where to start the drill to join up with the ports.






Drilling through into the ports.







Lining up the cylinder to join the inlet port from the cylinder.






Joining the inlet port up.







And her we have the ports drilled











I'll amend the drawing to reflect this change.

I'll put the cylinder to one side now as I want to make the valve chest and use it to mark of the fixing holes in the cylinder. But before I can do that I've got a huge tidying up job to do in the shop, I'm very much from the:- take it out, use it, put it down school of working as a result I end up with tools and bits of kit spread all round the shop.


Stew


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## SBWHART (Jan 22, 2011)

Made a start on fabricating the steam chest, the parts are straight forward machining.






The dowels well keep everything in place when soldering, there not a particularly tight fit and I filed a flat on them to let any gas escape as the job heats up other wise the pressure will pop them out.

This is how I set it up for solder, with the joint fluxed and rings of solder round the glands and little nuggets of solder sitting on the joint, putting it in the corner helps keeps bits in place and retain the heat, I tuch on the end of the dowels with a filler rod just to fill them in.






This is it after 5 minutes in the acid i stuck it back in for an hour 






Cleaned the outside up with a file then milled the faces flat so they will make a good seal.






Then with it upright in the vice find the centres and drill and tap the sealing gland.







Starting to look like a cylinder now.






Stew


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## tel (Jan 22, 2011)

Off to a great start Stew. Your fabrication methods seem to be very similar to my own, tho I usually only use short bits of 1/16" brazing rod (manganese bronze) for the 'dowels'.


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## SBWHART (Jan 22, 2011)

Thanks for the comments guys.

Tel:- never tought of brazing rods I have some that I could have used, I had to turn down some 5mm brass to 3mm to make the dowels, the rods would have been much better, I'll file that one away.

Pat:- thats more or less what I did I flattend the ends a bit to give them a bit of grip. I have had pins push out due to gas expansion and spoil a job in the past, I was edging my bets.

Stew


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## SBWHART (Jan 23, 2011)

I had to change the layout of the holes in the steam chest, when I came to try the chest on the cylinder to see how thing looked I realized that changing the air feed hole position meant that I would break through into them with the steam chest fixing holes, not as though it would have been a disaster as the studs will be sealed in and the chest will be sealed on the cylinder but I thought it best to avoid it.

So with the new layout marked on the chest first drill them 3mm






When I milled the steam ports and machined the chest I marked the center line with a tiny dimple from the centre drill, this is so I will have a mark to line things up. So with two way sticky type on the chest stick it to the cylinder centrally and square using the marks and the back edge of the chest lined up on the back edge of the cylinder, then with a little transfer punch made from a bit of 3mm silver steel (drill rod) mark the position of the holes in the cylinder.






Set the cylnder level using the digi level, a real handy bit of kit , carefully line up on the marks with a centre drill and then drill M3 tapping.











Then on the tapping stand and the cylinder jacked level using a sine bar tap the holes nice and square.






Now for the cover a bit of 2mm brass plate was rough cut out and the chest placed on top and a line scribed round it.

Mill to the line, the parallels are to reduce the angle of dangle and give it a bit of extra support.






Then clamp the chest to it and drill through when you've done the first hole put a clamp bolt through it do the second and put another clamp bolt through it as well, remove the clamp and drill the rest of the holes, I used a number 31 drill to give a little wiggle room.











The hole in the middle will take the air intake flange the top of this flange will be leveled off so the hole in the cover needs to go in at an angle, so with the cover bolted to the chest and set up at 15 deg, first a big centre drill followed by a slot drill this angle the hole nicely.






This is the cylinder assembly so far


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 23, 2011)

Always a fascinating thread from you Stew.
That is really looking good.


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## SBWHART (Jan 23, 2011)

Thanks Zee your interest is much apreciated.


Stew


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## cfellows (Jan 23, 2011)

I'll be the first to admit I'm not sure what's going on here, but i'm mighty impressed with the workmanship. Looks like he cylinders are at an angle to the valve chest?

Chuck


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## SBWHART (Jan 24, 2011)

Thanks Pat/Chuck

Chuck

Yes the valve chest is angled to the cylinders, you can see that here in the picture of the original.






When I first saw the engine in the museum, it was the feature that first caught my attention, then I noticed the over crank arrangement, and thought it would be a good subject for an engine build.

I couldn't find any details about the maker of the engine, and when I contacted the museum all they told me was what I knew already. Its not a very big engine about 3 ft * 3 ft with a 2 ft ish fly wheel. I figure these sort off small engines were made in their hundreds if not thousands to power small work shops, mounted up on a wall driving line shafting they didn't take up much floor space.

Hers a few more pics of the original
















It was being run on air to drive a these machines with line shafting.






My only criticism was the brammer belting the victorians would have used leather.

Thanks again for your interest.

Strew


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## SBWHART (Jan 24, 2011)

Pat J  said:
			
		

> I would call that sort of a suitcase engine, like those used in the Volkswagon stationwagons, and about the size of a large suitcase.
> 
> Quite an interesting and compact engine.
> It was the electric motor of the 1800's (but more fun than an electric motor).
> ...



Thats a good description ;D

When I started my apprenticeship the factory still had one production line of small presses driven by line shafting the power source in this case was an electric motor a few years later they bought one machine that did away with the whole production line, and the shafting was torn out. 

Stew


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## SBWHART (Jan 24, 2011)

Ever had one of those days when you think you should have stayed in bed.

Putting the pipe coupling on the steam chest cover I turned the bit up, and soldered it to the cover, this is the set up I used to solder it, coupling sitting on a flat surface cover angled bit of heat onto the mill to clean the top of square and drill the stud holes.






This is what I ended up with.






You can see that the darn thing has slipped and I've ended up with quite a taper on the flange

Strike 1 over to plan B

Cut it off and clean the solder off and start again this time I thought it would be more stable if I milled an angle on the coupling






 Line it up on the cover and solder it on, square it up drill holes. Nope the double darn thing had moved also and looked like the leaning tower of thingy.

Strike 2 over to plan C

No more piddling about and stop trying to be cleaver just solder a lump of brass on the cover mill the top off square and drill the holes.






That sorted it :thumbup: 

Stew


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## Foozer (Jan 24, 2011)

sbwhart  said:
			
		

> No more piddling about and stop trying to be cleaver just solder a lump of brass on the cover mill the top off square and drill the holes.
> 
> Stew



When all else fails, Get a Bigger Hammer. Like your solution, minimise the moving parts

Robert


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## tel (Jan 24, 2011)

;D You could have put the locating pins to good use there as well!


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## SBWHART (Jan 24, 2011)

tel  said:
			
		

> ;D You could have put the locating pins to good use there as well!



I did on that last successful attempt 

 :bow:

Thanks for the tip ;D

Stew


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## SBWHART (Jan 26, 2011)

Things slowed down over the last couple of days but did manage to get a little done on the cylinder end covers, these are just plain turning jobs the hard bit is dealing with the thin section when you do the second op, I deal with it by puting my back stop in the head stock and pushing the thin cover up against it this help get it concentric and keep it secure. With the piston end covers with the stuffing gland its important to get the register with the cylinder concentric with the piston rod hole I do this by clocking the cover up in my three jaw i know that if I keep trying it in diferent positions one of them will be spot on.

Drilling the bolt holes and drilled to the full depth of the flutes this was enough to do three of the covers.






A bit of fancy work






Clocking the a cover up






Covers done






I'm planning on fitting a governor to the engine I drew one up but as I was unsure if I'd got the proportion correct 

The first pic shows the governor against the cylinder at 1 : 1 scale






Its far too big

This is it 1/2 size






Better but a wee bit small I think I somthing slighly bigger would be about right, some of the parts will be a bit on the small size but still doable.

Stew


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## SBWHART (Feb 4, 2011)

I bet you're wondering where I've bin with this, well had a few days out over the weekend spent in windy Cornwall.

Got a bit done over the last couple of days made the nuts for the glands.

Not much to these except try and make them in one go to get the thread concentric with the bore and to ream the bore.






Also lapped the port face nice a flat using a bit of fine wet and dry on a flat surface, this is so the slide valve makes a nice seating onto it.






I cut all the studs to length I'm just waiting for some stud lock to be delivered to fix them in place.

Made the slide valve, I made both valves in one piece saves setting up. Start by milling a bit of bar to size then as a guide mark out the recess.






Then over onto the mill I like to work from the centre out but any way you're happy with will do its really quite easy if you've got a DRO I made slide valves without the DRO and you really have to be carful how you manage the back lash or you can get it all wrong. The first cut only has to be correct as you deepen the pocket you can finish the cut short it won't matter a jot it's only the edge that does the work. Just work clock wise around the pocket so you're not climb milling.

First done






Second done






Flip it over and do the back

Slot for rod






Check that depth is good






Slot for cross bar.






Then cut it in half to make the two, and mill to length and don't forget to lap the face nice and flat same as for the cylinder.






Next I tried out my new mini vice to make the cross bar this is made from a bit of 1/4" square mild steel again make the two together.

Put the bit of bar on a flat plate put the vice over the top of it tighten vice that the bar gripped nice and level, 






Then transfer the little vice to the big vice drill and tap.






And thats the slide valve done and fitted.






Stew


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## SBWHART (Apr 4, 2011)

Here we go

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkCtQiHsh3c[/ame]

Stew


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## joe d (Apr 4, 2011)

Stew

That's brilliant! :bow:

Been following along since the beginning, and have enjoyed all of it.
 I especially like the sound with the base acting as a "sounding box".


Cheers, Joe


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## Anko (Apr 4, 2011)

Incredible! :bow:

Great work!!! love the sound that make at low speed!

Saludos


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## JorgensenSteam (Apr 4, 2011)

Nice work Stew.
Awesome engine.

Pat J


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## nfk (Apr 4, 2011)

Awesome work!
Excellent!

Norberto


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## Maryak (Apr 4, 2011)

Stew,

Beautiful :bow: :bow:

It's bigger than I imagined and I too like the resonance from the mount, it gives an impression of controlled power.

Best Regards
Bob


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## ozzie46 (Apr 4, 2011)

Excellent!! Another runner and it sounds great. Good job of design and build.


  Ron


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## doubletop (Apr 5, 2011)

Nice one Stew!!!

I thought I'd missed a bit of the build when it went from cylinders and valves to 'finished' so did a re-run over the thread, but apparently I didn't miss anything. Had you done the rest prior to starting the post?

Pete


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## SBWHART (Apr 5, 2011)

doubletop  said:
			
		

> Nice one Stew!!!
> 
> I thought I'd missed a bit of the build when it went from cylinders and valves to 'finished' so did a re-run over the thread, but apparently I didn't miss anything. Had you done the rest prior to starting the post?
> 
> Pete



Peter I stopped posting the build on here as I got a bit disheartened with the interest and feed back it got, but I did carry the thread on her http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=4201.msg52284#new

Thanks all you Chaps who have kindly commented.

So far its bin an interesting project, some of you Guys have commented on its size, it did come out bigger than I had in my minds eye, but in its original state it's not a very big engine, it would comfortably fit in a suite case, the model loco guys like to build narrow gauge Locos as they come out as large engines I thinks its something to do with scaling. The original engine has a fly wheel of about 24" dia I used a 7" fly wheel about 1/3 full size, and scaled everything from that, I think if I had used a 4" fly wheel some of the parts would have come out too small to comfortably make.

I don't intend running it on steam I don't think its performance on steam would be very good as I made the steam galleries on the small size.

I went away from the drawing I posted quite a bit:-as the build progressed I saw better or alternative ways of doing things, so at some point I will update them.

When I come to finish the engine off I want to round the sharp corners off and fill internal corners with something so that it looks more like a casting, can any of you guys suggest a filler.


Thanks again

Stew


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## b.lindsey (Apr 5, 2011)

Great job Stew!! A unique design well executed and certainly one to be proud of. Thanks for sharing the pictures and video.

Bill


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## doubletop (Apr 5, 2011)

Stew

I understand. I must admit I've slowed down my input to HMEM recently and only comment occasionally or reply if somebody posts to one of my threads.

On the filler; "Hemetal" (or some such) came to mind, it was a metal based filler we used in the RAF for bunging up things (can't think what). I believe it was in the Hematite gasket people product range. Had a dig around and Hematite is now Loctite and nothing about Hemetal

I did find this though that looks similar

http://www.eal.com.au/hypoxy.php?PHPSESSID=cc353e31e70189b5218aca111a6e97ec

Pete

Pete


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## b.lindsey (Apr 5, 2011)

Stew,
Here in the states we have something called JB Weld, also a 2 part epoxy similar to what Pete showed. Its good stuff and supposedly good up to 500 degrees F. If you go the epoxy route, keep in mind that the longer curing formulas can and will slump some as they set up. For that reason I might suggest you look for one of the faster curing formulas, one that will give you enough working time to make your fillets, but which will set ujp quick enough to avoid the slumping.

Bill


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## gbritnell (Apr 5, 2011)

Hi Stew,
A most admirable piece of work. My first love is steam engines and especially ones with all kinds of mechanical links and levers. As has been stated it runs great and has that wonderful sound at low speed. 
gbritnell


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## SBWHART (Apr 5, 2011)

Thanks for you comments and pointers for fillers Guys 





			
				doubletop  said:
			
		

> I understand. I must admit I've slowed down my input to HMEM recently and only comment occasionally or reply if somebody posts to one of my threads.
> 
> Pete



I must confess thats what I tend to do also:- I'm guilty of not being the most chatty person in the world I tend to just say whats needed and then move on:- but that way you soon run out of places to move to.

Stew


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## SBWHART (May 8, 2011)

Well, time to pic this back up again by making a start on the governor in fact I've been agonizing over it for a couple of weeks for some reason I've been full of self doubt and uncertainty, I've drawn and redrawn the governor up 1/2 a dozen times changing my mind as to type and size, eventually I gave myself a good talking too:-just get on with it and stop p******g around.

So her we are first bit the little spinning things that hold the arms, making small parts can be a bit of a pain if you don't get the machine sequence right, you can end up with nothing to hold onto.

So started off on the lathe and machined out the outer shape and reamed the bore out 3mm, I'm making the two out of the same bit of bar one at each end.

Her they are one at each end






Then over onto the mill gripped in the four jaw self centering chuck, centre the chuck on the centre line of the quill, zero the dials, then with a 2mm slot drill, mill the slot across the end, then with a bigger end mill, mill flats either side, flip it round and repeat on the other end.






Then over to the vice first set the quill on to the centre of the bar, with a ruler or straight edge in the slot grip it level in the vice, index to position and drill through 0.8mm for the pivot pin.






Back onto the lathe and part them off, doing them this way you had the bar to grip onto.

Her they are on a length of 3mm stainless that will be the spindle with a bit of 0.8 piano wire through pivot hole.







Any way on with the link arms first the arms that will hold the balls. 

Turn and thread a small length of 4 mm dia bar M2 I took care to get the length the same on both bars I don't want the balls hanging odd 






Then carefully mill the 4mm dia into 2mm square.

Then drill 0.8mm for the links.






Her they are fitted.






That was the easy bit now for the more complex yolk link.

First mill up the shape in a chunk of mild steel more than enough to make two links.






Zero the mill on the x, Y edges of the bar, and drill 0.8mm holes in correct position as deep as the slender drill would go, fast speed, drop of cutting fluid and peck the drill in and out to clear the swarf.






Now for milling the slot, the arms will only be 1mm thick and as the slitting saw will tend to spring the arms open the slots were cit in the bar well away from the edge to give a thicker section I'll mill them to size later.







With thin sections its important to use good sharp tools if they are blunt the part will be bent, so with a new end mill skim off arms until 1mm thick, then mill step, to form the yolk.






With another bigger dia slitting saw cut the link from the bar leaving plenty of meat around the arms for finishing later.






The second arm was just a repeat of the first, this is it being split off, I was a little lean on material, but their was just enough.






The links were flipped over and the other side end milled to size sorry no pics.

The hook was filed to shape.






I left them over long to give something to grip on only cutting them of to length as a last op.

Here's one finished with its mate.






And the finished bits assembled, they still need a bit of a clean up but not looking too bad. It will be fitted with some 3/8" phosphor bronze balls, when I work out a way to drill and tap them.







Had a rummage through my bits and pieces box and came up with this I've used this for all sorts of odd fixtures, and it will be just the ticket for the ball job.






So gripped it in the vice and fly cut the face up nice and flat, then drilled a bit of ally bar for a top clamp, fixed it to the base, locked the x and y axis of the mill. And drilled a 3 mm hole in the clamp into the base.






Then with a big centre drill drilled a big cone into the base for the ball to sit in.






Clamp the ball in the fixture centre drill followed by an M2 tapping drill and tap, I used the chuck to guide the tap to keep it square.






Cleaned things up and fixed the pins and balls with a tiny bit of supper glue.

Looking good






Scale looks about right :thumbup:






Pleased how that turned out.




I was kind of working from drawings and from gut feel for the job, I'll bring the drawings into line with what I ended up with and post them her along with the other governor designs I came up with some of you guys may be able to put them to use.

Stew


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## doubletop (May 8, 2011)

Nice one Stew and good to see you've got your balls hanging straight. Some intricate work there, the next thing you'll be doing is making a clock.

I just can't help thinking why you didn't just put the ball in the lathe chuck or collet and drill it and tap it there? depending on how accurate your setup is the hole will be on center, wouldn't it?

Pete


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## SBWHART (May 8, 2011)

> I just can't help thinking why you didn't just put the ball in the lathe chuck or collet and drill it and tap it there? depending on how accurate your setup is the hole will be on center, wouldn't it?



Thanks Pete, yes i kind of went the long way round with that one, the balls are phospore bronze and i was afraid of damaging them in the chuck, and I never thought of using collets.

Stew


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## doubletop (May 8, 2011)

The suggestion of use of collets got the thought juices going and I've just realized I can use my collets to hold a backstop for work in my chuck. I've just tried it, and my collets fit in the nose of the lathe, with the draw bar, and then the chuck will fit over the top. I've got an old Lorch but it may work for those with 5C collets. 

I've got 8 stand-offs to make tomorrow and it will speed the job up considerably

Pete


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## bearcar1 (May 8, 2011)

Rather nicely done Stew, BRAVO!! There is always an extra fascination about an engine when a set of governor balls are involved. On top of all the sliding links and doo-dads, those spinning balls always seem to draw ones attention.

BC1
Jim


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## TuxMan (May 8, 2011)

Nicely done Stew :bow:

I like the way you approach work holding and machining the small parts. Looking forward to the next installment.

Eric


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## SBWHART (May 9, 2011)

Cheers Jim/Pete/Eric

The butterfly valve is based on a tubal Cain design in his book "Building the Beam Engine Mary" that I've adapted and metricated for this engine.

 First part the main body just a simple turning job.







Mount it in the mill vice find its centre in the X and Y and mill a 10mm dia flat with a 2mm hole 4mm deep in the middle.






Turn up a little nugget of brass with a 2mm nipple to locate in the body.






Silver solder the two together mount back in the vice with the nugget horizontal, and skim it off flat the drill 3mm through into the hole and a little way through the other side, and drill and tap 1/4"*40 ME.











Mount the other way round sitting on a parallel and in the vice gripping on the flat face, find the centre of the hole using the coaxial indicator, and drill the four bolting down holes using the DRO, make sure you get them oriented the correct way.






The boss floated off line when I soldered it, but I think it gives it that just cast look, :big:







The butterfly sits at a 30 angle across the air way which means its has an oval shape, this is the way Tubal Cain made the butterfly which I think is real neat. Mill a 30 deg angle across a bit of brass bar.






Soft solder the brass shim that will form the butterfly on the end.






Turn the bar down to 6mm.






Heat the bar up again so that the butterfly drops off, clean it up and you've got an oval.






Now wasn't that neat  ;D

Stew


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## Captain Jerry (May 10, 2011)

Stew

The butterfly plate is indeed "neat". I'm holding my breath waiting for you to show how the plate is fixed to the shaft and assembled in the valve body. My head is throbbing and my vision is getting blurred so please hurry before I pass out.

Jerry


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## SBWHART (May 11, 2011)

Cheers Jerry

I'm following Tubal Cain's (Tom Wiltshaw) methods her he certainly had some neat tricks :headbang:

The valve shaft is a bit of 3mm stainless, put a 0.5mm slot down the end with a slitting saw.






Then cross drill 0.8mm I.m not sure if this is required.






So you've got this.






Now Tubal called for the stem to be brass and to soft solder the butterfly to it whilst assembled to the body, but he was writing before cyinoacalate came along and as i won't be steaming the engine that's what I'm going to use.

So this is the assembly kit.






It was my intentions to cross drill the butterfly using the little drill but when I came to it I couldn't get in, I think the idea is to give another route for the solder/supper glue, but it seems to have fixed well enough without the cross drill. You have to probe about a bit to get the butterfly sitting square then apply a drop of glue on the end of the stick, don't over do it as you'll stick the lot together :hammer:

Her we are with it in the open position.






And closed






I then turned up the gland nut, assembled it with a few turns of graphite yarn to seal thing up.

The finished Job






Next up the mounting frame.

Marked it out on a bit of steel plate.






I'll cut it out tomorrow.

Stew


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## Dan Rowe (May 11, 2011)

Very nice work Stew. :bow: :bow:
Thanks for posting the setups.

Cheers Dan


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## Captain Jerry (May 11, 2011)

Stew

Nice job on the butterfly. I'll breath better knowing that you didn't have to solder it but it would have been a real challenge. 

Jerry


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## SBWHART (May 26, 2011)

Thanks Dan/Jerry


Bin away on a short holiday to the isle of Islay off the West coast of Scotland its famous for whisky and ship wrecks, the ferry we were on nearly become one when it developed engine problems on the crossing and had to return to port, it all adds up to make life interesting  

Made the little lever thing that connect the fly ball governor to the butterfly valve, it's a right tricky little beats, I had no idea how to make it so decided to just start cutting it out of a chunk of metal I had a rough idea what it was to look like.






Rouged it out with the end mills.






Then it was a matter of taking files to it and nibbling bits off and adjusting until it fitted and started to do what was required.






This is it fitted to the cylinder.







I'd removed the cylinder from the engine so that I could drill the hole for the bracket so couldn't try it running, but I did connect a power drill to the shaft and gave it a spin and its works nicely operating the valve nice and smooth. I'll post a video over the weekend when I get chance, but I've a few family thing to deal with first.

Stew


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## Captain Jerry (May 26, 2011)

Stew

Whiskey and shipwrecks. You avoided the shipwreck. How did it go with the whiskey? Nice control arm you whittled out there.

Jerry


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## TuxMan (May 26, 2011)

Stew

The governor is a work of art. Great job

Eric


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## SBWHART (May 27, 2011)

Thanks for your interest and kind comments Eric and Jerry

Thought I'd go off topic and post a few pics of Islay






Stormy sea











There's lots of Gray seals about the Common seal are not so common  ???






They like to lie on rocks just under the surface and look like huge black Bananas.






Back on topic I changed the spring on the governor for something a bit lighter and made a video the shot looking down is a bit out of focus but you can see the butterfly valve working.

[ame]http://youtu.be/GNJzLzcMWW4[/ame]

Enjoy

Stew :nrocks:


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## Noitoen (May 27, 2011)

Nice work on the governor but isn't suppose to close the air supply as the ball open? From what I can see in the video it opens up with speed. ???


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## SBWHART (May 27, 2011)

Noitoen  said:
			
		

> Nice work on the governor but isn't suppose to close the air supply as the ball open? From what I can see in the video it opens up with speed. ???



No its closing, Its dificult to see down the hole.

Thanks for your interest.

Stew


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## Captain Jerry (May 27, 2011)

Stew

Thanks for the Islay pictures. Pictures like that stir my blood. The smell and sounds of the sea are even better than the smell of machine oil and the sounds of steam exhaust.

Thanks also for the rear view of the governor. I was not sure how it was mounted until this. Nice design. How will it be driven? Belt off of the crankshaft?

I'm still a little cloudy on the operation. When the governor is at rest (balls in) is the butterfly open or closed?

Jerrry


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## SBWHART (May 28, 2011)

Thanks Jerry

When its at rest the butterfly is open, I've yet to make a shut off valve that will fit ontop of the butterfly, I'm planning to drive it with a belt off the crankshaft, one of those spring belts you get for Mamods. I've still got a bit of experimenting to do with pully size spring load, direction of operation with or against flow of air etc to try and optimise its operation, at worst it will just look as thogh its working, at best it will be working effectivly.

Thanks for your interest.

Stew


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## SBWHART (Jun 9, 2011)

Stripped the engine down and started the painting and rebuild process. 






Also completed the main valve to sit on top of the butterfly.






I've got drawings for the main and butterfly valves, and tried attaching PDF copies her but for some reason it won't let me ?.


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## SBWHART (Jun 11, 2011)

> I've got drawings for the main and butterfly valves, and tried attaching PDF copies her but for some reason it won't let me ?.



Well as no one as helped me out on this I take it no one is interested in the drawings 

Completed the oilers for the crank shaft bearings.

This is how they are made up.






And how they look finished.






Stew


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## ozzie46 (Jun 11, 2011)

Stew, regarding the attachment problem, there was a technical problem with the site. It is supposed to be fixed now.


  That is one mighty fine job you've done on that engine. :bow: :bow:

  Ron


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## Captain Jerry (Jun 11, 2011)

Stew

I can't offer any help with the posting attachment problem but it sounds like it is fixed. I would really like to see the drawings. That is a really interesting looking valve/governor setup.

Jerry


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## SBWHART (Jun 11, 2011)

Hi Jerry that seems to have worked now.

The Governor and Butterfly valve are linked together with this little link arm.














I've not drawn it up yet I was unclear of its shape or how to make it, I just did a few rough sketches then started to whittle a lump of steel down until I got something that worked. 

I havn't done an assembly drawing yet showing how the three eliments link together, I think a side few would show it Best

Spent best part of today cleaning things up and slowly assembling the engine couldn't resist an how's it looking shot.






TASTY

Stew 

View attachment Butterfly valve-Model.pdf


View attachment Governor V3-Model.pdf


View attachment Main Valve-Model.pdf


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## SBWHART (Jun 15, 2011)

To bring you up to date.

Rebuilt the engine and completed the governor pulleys, I've run it on the test base for over eight hours now and its runs sweet.

The governor sort of works found that the butterfly valve spindle is fouling the frame, and I think the return spring is too strong, so that will be stripped down and I'll do a bit of experimenting, when I've got it fitted to a new hardwood base.

Here's a few beauty pics to be going on with, I'll post a video when I get it on the new base.











Stew


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## Dan Rowe (Jun 15, 2011)

Wow that is outstanding work :bow: :bow: :bow:

Many thanks for sharing photos of your progress.

Cheers Dan


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## kustomkb (Jun 15, 2011)

Beautiful work Stew!

I'm looking forward to the video.


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## ShedBoy (Jun 15, 2011)

:bow: :bow:
What an amazing looking engine. The crank, rod and crossheads will make for interesting viewing when running. Waiting for the video.
Brock


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## SBWHART (Jun 16, 2011)

KustomKB  said:
			
		

> Beautiful work Stew!
> 
> I'm looking forward to the video.




Thank you all for your comments and support.

Her's the video of a early test run.

[ame]http://youtu.be/tkCtQiHsh3c[/ame]

Stew


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## Maryak (Jun 16, 2011)

Stew,

Brilliant..........without the tittivating :bow: :bow:

Great sound, I wonder what it would be under steam. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## tel (Jun 16, 2011)

A very fine piece of work - congratulations Thm:


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## SBWHART (Jun 16, 2011)

Thanks for your comments Guys.

Not sure how it would run on steam, The air ways are a little narrow so I figure not so good, but I've no plans on running it steam anyway.

Cheers

Stew


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## lazylathe (Sep 4, 2011)

Congratulations on making the cover of Model Engineer!!!!
A great accomplishment Stew!!!!

Well deserved!!!!

Andrew


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## steamer (Sep 4, 2011)

Looking Great Stew....thought the cover engine looked familiar!

Dave


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