# My little corner of the Universe - Phase 1



## CrewCab (Apr 25, 2008)

Well, it had to happen now or ........ I'd probably never get round to it : .......... I've been "planning" to do this for the last 5 years at least........ so here we go ;D

My hideaway .......... yesterday 







and as of tonight ..................   ??? :






So my little space is about to undergo a "slight" transformation ........ it's 9ft wide by 12ft long, however I have to share that space with a Fridge and a Freezer plus lots of other bits .......... just don't ask ...  :wall: .... After moving everything, if I open the garage door things fall out on me, so they will have to go back in the workshop ???

Anyway it's part of the original detached single garage, now connected to the house via the utility area, the good news is the downstairs loo (one of the most useful things I ever built) is just outside the workshop entrance door ....... :

Anyway, the Van is stacked with board, timber and insulation so this little bit of space is getting a new insulated floor, insulated ceiling and timber boarded walls ......... "insulated" .......... can you tell I'm fed up of cold weather 

After I get the shell sorted I'm planning to build benches and shelving all the way around, electrics and the minor amount of plumbing are all going to be surface mounted so if I decide to stick a screw in somewhere I don't have to worry, if I end up with anything particularly heavy I can cut out a section of timber floor and put in a concrete pad, shelving is going to be generally plywood but hopefully I'll make that adjustable with a few extra router grooves .............. however ......... 

Useful suggestions at this stage, to add to this tiny "blank canvas" are more than welcome as this opportunity is unlikely to present itself again in my lifetime 8)

Silly suggestions I can come up with myself, humorous ones are most welcome ;D  ;D

what the heck, silly ones are more than welcome anyway :

Thank you in anticipation chaps :

Dave


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## DickDastardly40 (Apr 26, 2008)

Think how many sockets you'll need then multiply by at least one and a half to two, this'll give you some scope to move things around if the first layout doesn't work and also task lighting, battery chargers and a little growth. I have a double socket in the ceiling in the centre so I can use a workmate in the middle with the power cord not coming across the floor making a trip hazard. Wire it all in through the protected half of the split load distribution panel or have a separate RCD protected panel for the workshop.

Cladding the walls will aid reflected light if you paint but put up a couple more flourescent lights, you don't want it to be dingy.

I'd put the bench with a vice near the window to utilise the natural light for hand work.

I've seen a suggestion elsewhere for a sheet of plastic behind the lathe like a shower curtain to prevent you getting the stripe up the wall caused by the chuck flinging coolant.

When you get your machinery, give some thought to the 'work envelope' and how much space you need around it to say move the mill table full range and get your hand on the wheel or get a bar through the headstock of the lathe. Also consider the 'maintenance envelope', can you get the grease gun on a particular nipple with it backed up to the wall and can you open the hatch to change belts.

Make the benches to suit you so you're not unduly stooping or stretching, have the vice with the top of the jaw at around elbow height (makes hacksawing easier I find). 

Enough for now, hope that's some food for thought, no really silly ideas yet.

Al


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## Bogstandard (Apr 26, 2008)

To expand on Al's suggestion, I put a double socket every four feet around the walls (eleven in all, from their own supply box in the workshop). This might seem like overkill, but when your benches are full of junk, you can always move to a slightly less cluttered area to run your small power tools. Unless you have piped heating out there, a small infra red heater is a boon in the winter, using the nearest socket, you can keep it close to you, warming you up from the inside, without the expense of heating the whole shop. A cheap roller blind on the window will help to keep the place snug during the cold winter months, and also stop prying eyes.

As for lighting, get as much florescent in there as possible, it throws less shadows, and once it has warmed up, it should be like working in daylight. I put angle poise lamps on the walls for more close up lighting, and if positioned correctly in the first place, can be swung between machines.

Paint the walls in a very light colour, this will make the place a lot easier to work in because it will reflect the light and you shouldn't end up with dark corners, and as Al suggested, hang a splashback to protect the paintwork. Use bluetac and lightweight plastic sheeting, so it can be replaced when it gets filthy. I have even seen cling film and bacofoil used for the purpose, but get the better half's permission first, otherwise you might end up with no dinner.

Unlike mine, you should end up with a place for everything, and everything in its place.

John


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## John S (Apr 26, 2008)

Put some sockets on the front of the bench so you don't have to have trailing leads to the back knocking stuff off the bench as you drag the power tools about.
Very handy for drills and grinders.

.


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## alan2525 (Apr 26, 2008)

Good suggestions so far! One thing - if you only have a small amount of space, really think about what you are going to use the space under the workbenches for. I'd fit lots of draws, and a mix of open shelving for storing stock etc. Also if you can build some portable benching on casters that can be wheeled around. Axminster sell casters that you can attach to a frame which lift up so the bench drops down onto it's legs.

Also think about different work areas, a clean area for marking out and a dirty area for grinding and sharpening etc.


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## Circlip (Apr 26, 2008)

A "New" workshop works on the law of diminishing returns. No matter how much room you thought you had when fitting it out, it has disappeared when you start to build. Regards Ian.


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## Cedge (Apr 26, 2008)

Dave
Everyone has been giving you some good advice. I'll add a bit as well. One of the nicest things I did in my own shop was to use strip type electrical outlets along the edges of my counter tops and work bench. These are available from Lowes or Home Depot and have plug ins every few inches along a narrow metal enclosure which runs the length of the counter. I have a plug outlet available anywhere I am working. Since I almost never have more than one machine under power at any given moment, I've never had any problems with the loads. I'm also planning to add air connections in the same manner. 

Peg board is a nice addition, although these days the routed board looks like it might be a nice plus as well. Great aid in keeping things organized and readily at hand.

Under the counter mounting of my tool boxes has proven to be a move I have never regretted. I'm already looking at doing some more of this with the boxes that have accumulated since I enclosed the original pair.

Steve


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## Brass_Machine (Apr 26, 2008)

Storage... I think somewhere I found the plans for a moving pegboard. Very simple and it adds to your pegboard room. I think it was in Make Magazine. The boards (there were 4) set up almost like pages in a book.

The only other idea I can think of that no-one else has covered would be ventilation of some sort. Is that a garage door to get in? Maybe a fan in the window?

Eric


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## CrewCab (Apr 26, 2008)

Thanks guys 8) lots of useful tips so far, I do intend fitting lots of sockets but I like the idea of some at the front of the bench and one in the ceiling as well 

John, yes good idea about light coloured walls ............. just means I have to paint them  .............. I must confess decorating is one thing I just don't enjoy ??? ............... but for the greater good and all that I 'spose I'll have to ......phone a friend  ;D  

Ventilation is a good point, in it's original state that was never a problem, but a fan seems a wise move. 

I'm looking into the strip type socket outlets, but I haven't found a readily available source as yet, as for the fold out pegboard shelves I do recall seeing something like that a long time ago, that could well be worth thinking about for storing small items, certainly would save space and keep things organised .......... something which I need to work on.

Anyway, got a few hours in today so about half the floor is down, watch this space ;D

Dave


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## John S (Apr 26, 2008)

CrewCab  said:
			
		

> I'm looking into the strip type socket outlets, but I haven't found a readily available source as yet,
> Dave



Ikea has some 6 way strips at the moment at £4.99 each.
Got 3 last week for the new CNC cabinets.

.


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## CrewCab (Apr 26, 2008)

This is the sort of thing I was thinking about .........

*Dado Perimeter Trunking* but, having looked at the price I think conventional sockets will be fine : 

Dave


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## applescotty (Apr 26, 2008)

firebird posted some photos of his shop awhile back, one thing I noticed was the roll out storage tubs under his benches:






I thought it was a good way to make use of that space.

Scott


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## alan2525 (Apr 27, 2008)

One problem in small workshops is lack of bench top space. It's amazing how quickly the work area gets covered in tools specific to one job. Soon you find yourself knee deep in stuff and it ends up in a mess!

I made some wooden trays, with an edging around three sides and a piece across the bottom of the front edge so it locates it on the worktop. If you make three or four of these and have some kind of rack under the worktop for these, you can then put them away and have a clear worktop again. Handy if you have done some painting or something then need to put the parts aside and work on another job.

I made mine about 600mm x 600mm and it's very useful to be able to quickly get shot of the stuff on your bench when you want to do something else.


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## Circlip (Apr 27, 2008)

The perimeter trunking you've shown may be for industrial use, have a look at your local friendly double glazing/ conservatory supplier ( :big: ) could be that the trunking that is available for fitting out conservatories could be cheaper. Also have a look at the plastic extrusion used by the same people for cills, raw material is supplied in 5 or 6Mtr lengths. Regards Ian.


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## CrewCab (Apr 28, 2008)

Well after a long weekend (had a day off today ;D ) ............. progress has been made, not as much as I'd hoped for but at least its still progress, floor is 95% done, ceiling about 50% and walls about 75% ........... Oh well, unfortunately work will interfere with further progress until tomorrow evening  ....C'est la vie ........... It's starting to fill up already though :






Dave


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## MattMoore (May 2, 2008)

I spy a festool multi function table and circular saw?
I take it your in the woodworking trade?


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## CrewCab (May 2, 2008)

General building trade really Matt, but I tend to stick to joinery ;D


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## CrewCab (May 3, 2008)

Just as I thought I'd decided where everything was going it's all change time again ................... due to a bit of luck and dropping on a second hand 9 X 20 lathe complete with a stand at a reasonable price ;D






Oh well at least that's the "which lathe" question answered 

Dave


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## mike4517 (May 3, 2008)

Dave

Bought it off ebay you are supposed to wait until the bidding ends lol
Mike


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## CrewCab (May 3, 2008)

mike4517  said:
			
		

> you are supposed to wait until the bidding ends  ;D



Why ........ nobody else seems to   ;D 

Anyway ............ seems in good condition, tried it when I picked it up, runs smoothly and quietly, everything seems to move smoothly and it's well oiled. Chap I bought it off seems very genuine and I have the original delivery note from Chester 8)

Blimey though .......... it's a heavy little beggar ??? .......... on my own this weekend, (only the dogs to help :big: ) so getting it out of the van and into the workshop was real fun ........... anyway it's in there now 






The only problem I've found so far (which I was told about) is the paint on the tray is flaking off, in fact that's an understatement, it's having trouble hanging on :

I'm (hoping) to level up the stand and fix it in place tomorrow so I might as well repaint the tray now ............. but ............. anybody know what size hole I need for a coolant drain, might as well cut the hole before I repaint it.

atb Guys

Dave


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## Divided He ad (May 3, 2008)

Nothing wrong with that machine Dave   Purchased mine brand new from the main factory store (only 3 miles away ;D) The paint comes off all over the place!! But it doesn't stop it working 

No idea of a coolant drain though sorry, I cut most everything dry with carbide insert tooling, never had much trouble (where's the cross your fingers smiley?) 

If your using coolant though check that you can deflect it from the rear of the motor... For some reason it is left exposed through a small gap in-line with the chuck ??? 

I know what you mean about heavy... I just moved mine and my mill' ( mill' is worse being very top unstable!!) 

Just a warning... you will at some point need new belts, order them well in advance and from the U.S. if possible.... Chester rip you off on the spares!! £15-£20 each!!! You can get them for as little as $5! yes £2.50 !!! even adding postage they're dirt cheap! 


Ralph.


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## rake60 (May 3, 2008)

Dave many of us here recognize that lathe.

Ours may be a different color of paint and slightly different configurations, 
but it's the same machine, from the same original manufacturer.
It's a good little machine but it has one critical weak point.
If the compound clamp is the factory original 2 bolt clamp your very first
project to be made on it should be a sturdier 4 bolt clamp.
It's an easy first project. Here's a link to one of my very early posts 
about making one. *Import 9 X 20 Compound Clamp*

Rick


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## Divided He ad (May 3, 2008)

Ok so I'll have to agree with Rick.... There is that Clamp which is a bit crap!! But other than that there is nothing wrong with them ;D



Ralph.


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## Bogstandard (May 4, 2008)

Dave,

Glad you found a machine to fit your needs, doesn't matter what it is, just enjoy using it.

John


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## CrewCab (May 4, 2008)

Thanks for the tips guys 

Ralph .......... do you have a link for the spare belts, I did notice it looked pretty skinny and methinks a couple of spares are a good idea, as for coolant, I'm harking back to my college days which were mainly spent machining mild steel; using coolant was just "the norm" so I assumed it would be worth adding ......... am I behind the times now ???

Rick, the compound clamp is the original one so an new sturdier one is a good idea, the first thing I have to figure out now is how to cut a piece of 1/2" plate to size with reasonable accuracy and a decent finish .........  ;D ............. bear with me, I'm just a learner remember :big: :big:

One thing the previous owner has done is switch the two final drive gears to the leadscrew around, (ie: put the big one on the leadscrew) which gives a much slower autofeed rate, I realise they need to be changed for threading but the principle seems like a reasonable idea to me .............. or am I loosing the plot 

Anyway, I'm off to do battle with the flaky paint, catch you all a bit later.

atb

Dave


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## Alphawolf45 (May 4, 2008)

One of my lathes sits on a sheetmetal stand like that one....And one fault with it that particularly bothers me is that oil seeps down through the pan at the boltholes where the lathe bed bolts to the pan. I should have bedded the lathe in some silicone sealant when I set it down on the stand.Now I have oily mess on the floor under the lathe as result of trying to maintain a 'well oiled machine'.

.


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## Divided He ad (May 4, 2008)

CrewCab  said:
			
		

> Thanks for the tips guy's
> 
> Ralph .......... do you have a link for the spare belts, I did notice it looked pretty skinny and methinks a couple of spares are a good idea, as for coolant, I'm harking back to my college days which were mainly spent machining mild steel; using coolant was just "the norm" so I assumed it would be worth adding ......... am I behind the times now ???



Don't shout that... They'll have me hung drawn and quartered!!!  ... :big: Not saying you don't need it at all Dave, Just I have never found that I need it with the tooling I use and the work I have done... It's all me,me,me... ;D 
The belt stuff... I will look and post a link for you when I can .... My first V belt lasted 3 months! The toothed one bout a year.




> the first thing I have to figure out now is how to cut a piece of 1/2" plate to size with reasonable accuracy and a decent finish ......... ;D ............. bear with me, I'm just a learner remember :big: :big:


Well as with all beginners...A square, a scriber,a hacksaw and a file !!!! That's all I was allowed when I started in college! So I eventually moved to motor vehicle so all I needed was a BIG hammer :big: 
Seriously though, That's the way I'd do it if I hadn't got the machinery :-\ ( I cut the blanks for my compound clamp and ball turning tool from 3/4" plate with my hacksaw.... now that takes some effort! : )



> One thing the previous owner has done is switch the two final drive gears to the leadscrew around, (ie: put the big one on the leadscrew) which gives a much slower autofeed rate, I realise they need to be changed for threading but the principle seems like a reasonable idea to me .............. or am I loosing the plot



I put the biggest gear I could on to the lead screw... cut the door too! Found the feeds I was getting too fast... It's all good (for me) now though ;D 

Finally....



> Anyway, I'm off to do battle with the flaky paint, catch you all a bit later.



... Good luck!!  


Ralph.


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## DickDastardly40 (May 4, 2008)

CrewCab  said:
			
		

> anybody know what size hole I need for a coolant drain, might as well cut the hole before I repaint it.



What size fitting do you have available? As long as the drain hole is big enough to take a reasonable flow, you'll be OK. Bear in mind that if your using pressure fed coolant, you'll always get a puddle in the tray before it drains. The coolant gets held up in the big pile of chips in the tray. 

I won't tell you to ensure you have a fall on the tray to the drain hole somehow or to put a strainer of some sort over the hole, you know that already. ;D

As Ralph said coolant is not always necessary for home stuff, especially brass which is generally dry anyway or if you get tipped tooling and can run fast enough the heat comes off on the chip. I like to use coolant for drilling, parting, finish cuts on steel and sometimes when the spindle is stopped just to flush chips out of a bore. As you gain experience you'll pick up your favourite method or if it is required. If you use it anyway no harm no foul!

As soon as I get to finish it I'll put up some pics of my gravity fed method which works for my occasional use.

Al


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## CrewCab (May 4, 2008)

Alphawolf45  said:
			
		

> I should have bedded the lathe in some silicone sealant



Thanks for the tip, 8) I've put silicone around the bolt holes before I sat the lathe in place 

Dave


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## CrewCab (May 30, 2008)

At last ............. a little more progress : ............. ceiling walls and floor all done and insulated ............... just in time for summer :wall: , I must get more organised, having had it done for last winter would have been a better plan :big:

And as a bonus, after finishing the ceiling "small son" offered to plaster it (I was just going to emulsion it  ) 












Things are moving on at least ......... albeit slowly :

Dave


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## Divided He ad (May 30, 2008)

Good stuff Dave ;D

Not long now and you'll be turning out engines and all sorts of stuff in a very comfortable shop 

Small son looks about the same size as little old me  :big: ... Whats his finish llike? I need a whole house doing soon!!! ;D 



Ralph.


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## CrewCab (May 31, 2008)

"Small Son" ......... is 6'-4" and 18 stone (that's a bit over 250 lbs for our overseas contingent  ) ......... he comes in very handy when you need to move a lathe or a milling machine ;D

His finish is not bad at all to say he's only taken up plastering over the last couple of years, must say I'm impressed with my workshop ceiling  ....... trouble is now my good lady is taking notice as the workshop looks like it will end finshed better than the rest of the house ........ may have shot myself in the foot here  ....... could be I will need to spend a lot of time doing all "those jobs" I've been putting off for a while : ........... on second thoughts ....... they can wait a while longer 8)

Made some progress last night and today, we have lighting ....... walls, floor and ceiling are finished ........ ish ..... main bench is in place, need to spend tomorrow morning finishing off securing it and mounting the little mill in it's home.

Still lots to do, shelving. paint floor ........ and walls ............. and ceiling ........ then start wiring up a couple of dozen sockets, Oh well, keeps me off the streets ;D  8)

Dave


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## bretk (May 31, 2008)

Dave,

 I can sympathize on the envious wife syndrome  , mine saw how well lit my workshop was, and it was back to Home Depot for more lights for her sewing area :big:

-Bret


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## CrewCab (Jun 6, 2008)

Mrs CC is even less impressed now ??? .......... as I've taken an old computer and installed in the workshop, with the help of a cheap wireless access point (and 4 hours to get the bloomin thing configured) I'm now typing yet more drivel from my workshop ;D .......... I'm happy .....  .... but my other half seems to think my priorities are screwed ???

In her words .......... "Oh for Gawd's sake ............ " :

is it just me ???

CC


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## ksouers (Jun 6, 2008)

No, Crew, it's not just you. I have two "caves". One in the corner of the garage, my shop. The other is at the far end of the house I share with 4 computers and a 125 gallon saltwater fish tank.

My wife just doesn't understand why I want to hide out when Oprah is on.


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## CrewCab (Jun 8, 2008)

Well after a long weekend I think I can see a small twinkle a long way down the tunnel 

Things are at last dropping into place, benches are up, about half the shelving in place and at last some electrics, be good to see the back of extension leads all over the floor 8)






Might even be about time to start thinking what I might try and make  ............ I did say "thinking" 

CC


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## ksouers (Jun 8, 2008)

Way to go, Dave.
The shop is looking better, all clean and neat and organized.

I suspect it won't stay that way  ;D


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## Maryak (Sep 12, 2008)

Well guys today is my 1st day as a member of your forum and having browsed around for a while, a good place to get started seems to be where it will hopefully happen.

My wife and I live in a unit so there is no room for a workshop.

Solution - semi portable, (large truck and crane), a 20 ft shipping container scrounged from a friend in the shipping business.

Having messed about in it for a year now I am happy with the result and I have a daily excuse to escape home duties and do my thing without too many interruptions from she who must be obeyed. :bow:

Can't seem to get the image uploaded, sorry about that, steep learning curve and any other excuses will be offered as they come to mind.


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## rake60 (Sep 13, 2008)

Welcome to HMEM Maryak 

Rick


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## Maryak (Sep 13, 2008)

Thanks for the Welcome and Yes I did manage to upload an image
Bob


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## CrewCab (Sep 14, 2008)

Welcome to the forum Maryak .............. got to say that looks way tidier than my little shop ;D

CC


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## Speedy (Sep 14, 2008)

Maryak I just started to think about a shipping container for a shop. 
how much did it run you? anything to look out for? do you have windows on the top?? ???
how did you do the electrical? 
hope im not hijacking. make a thread Maryak! :big:
(srry CrewCab :bow
back to business


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## Maryak (Sep 16, 2008)

Sorry Guys this is a bit new to me and if I knew how to make a thread I would.

Does this mean start a new topic?

Anyway, if you are in the unfortunate position of having to buy a 2nd hand container, a 20ft will cost between $au2000 - $au3000 depending on condition. mine is a very old 1979 box and is only 8 ft high. A standard box is 8'6" high and then there are 9'6" high ones as well. Then there's transportation and set up costs.

With the electrics, 240V in Oz, I ran it all through conduit and used a caravan power connector to connect to the mains. First thought was to mount this on the outside. My shops location suggested that security could be a problem so mounted on the inside. Now I can't close the door and lock up without disconnecting the power and putting it away. Helps me in my dotage, (apart from phone calls, saying are you coming back if not would you like us to lock up your box!!).The electrics cost around $au200

I have no windows, but have 2 hatches in the roof that can be unlocked and opened for ventilation in the summer. More trouble than its worth and only another place for leaks when its raining.

My box has steel over the wooden floor and being old the floor is 1" thick planks not high grade ply as in more modern boxes.

I could have done with a bit more lighting in the roof but apart from rainy days the doors are chained back and there is plenty of natural light, (only during the day).

Hooks, rails, notice boards, etc., can be welded to or screwed through the sides. All my benches and machines are bolted through the floor. This is easy when you have access to a container fork lift. If not I recommend you mount it high enough for underneath access at least until you are happy with where you've put everything. Then lower it, otherwise the first step outside is a doozy and the cost of making a verandah and stairs is substantial.

If I can help with anything else please ask.

Off to bed now in down-under.


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## Circlip (Sep 16, 2008)

Another " Instant " workshop to think about in the UK is the Portacabin, often sold off when their use as a temp classroom or crew cab is finished. Strong and fitted with stilts.
 Regards Ian.


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