# Shop-made tools



## ksouers (Sep 19, 2008)

In a couple recent posts several members have displayed some tooling they made to help complete a project. 

We've all got them. Here's a chance for members to show some of the tools they've made. Pick a favorite or two and let us see them. Maybe other members can get inspiration from your creation.


Let's see em!!!

I've got a couple items that could have been obtained commercially, but where's the fun in that? I wanted to make my own. I wanted a chance to learn something, to solve a puzzle if you will. OK, I just wanted to play with the machines ;D After all, it's the journey, not the destination. Right?

Clamp knurler






Zero-It clone


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## Mcgyver (Sep 19, 2008)

....oh man, where to start!

i converted this to links, it was too many pics i felt to put up as images, would kill a dial up guy

tube bender
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/tube bender/tbsetup.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/tube bender/tboverview.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/tube bender/tb2ndbend.jpg

tube straightener
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/tube straightener/tubestraightener.jpg

universal swivel vise and drill grinding v block
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/universal swivel/pt2withlargerdrill.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/universal swivel/pt2trvbloc.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/universal swivel/pt2sharpeneddrills.jpg

nut drivers (this is ME, second set no shown is BA)
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/sockets/finished.jpg

pinch roller
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/Roller/gearend.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/Roller/small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/Roller/sideview.jpg

UPT
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/upt/uptstorage.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/upt/uptwithstaking.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/upt/uptwithsmalltappinghead.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b201/michael0100/upt/uptwithdriilheadcloseup.jpg


not shown or currently underway; forge, oven, finishing a spot welder, cnc mill, welding cart, dust collection for T&C grinder, cut knurling tool, finger brake, what else have i forgotten......


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## steamer (Sep 19, 2008)

Changed post to links for smaller bandwidth.....enjoy!

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/P9170067.jpg
tool post mounted Keyway cutter
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/CopyofP1010194-1.jpg
Adjust true backing plate for the 5C collet chuck with integral clockable 24 position indexer.
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/P1010164.jpg
10" faceplate
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/P7100003.jpg
Cross drilling fixture with endstop in use
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/P1010117.jpg
Boring bar for a .354-10 ACME internal thread
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/Picture016.jpg
Gear cutter and wheel blank arbors for a stack of metric transposition gears being cut.


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## steamer (Sep 19, 2008)

The UPT is beautiful!.....got to build me one of them!

Dave


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## Brass_Machine (Sep 19, 2008)

Love threads like these. I think I started one awhile back.

Mcgyver... did you build that roller from plans?

Eric


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## BobWarfield (Sep 20, 2008)

Seems I never get to build anything but tools sometimes!

This may take more than one post.

Indexable dovetail cutter:






Kurt vise stop with split cotter locks:






Z-axis Quill DRO for the mill:






Powered drawbar for the mill:


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## BobWarfield (Sep 20, 2008)

12" Disc Sander:






Bandsaw Table:






Tailstock Cam Lock:






Lathe Compound DRO:


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## BobWarfield (Sep 20, 2008)

Last but not least, a button v-block I made for the 1st Team Build:






There's more tooling I've made, but these are things I use often.

Cheers,

BW


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## Maryak (Sep 20, 2008)

Poor mans tool and cutter grinder

Harold Hall MEW issues 89-92

Took a while to make but well worth the effort


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

Hey Maryak,

How do you like that grinder rig?

I need a good way to sharpen endmills (ends and flutes) and I have been dithering on a bunch of differant options

Dave


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

McGyver,

YOur right about the band width

How do you do that....or did I just read past that.

Dave


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## Maryak (Sep 20, 2008)

Steamer,

It's pretty good, I have only sharpened the ends of end mills, as yet I have not tried to sharpen any flutes. This process was successful from my point of view but I doubt it is to tool room standard. I suspect that removing the absolute minimum from the flutes to stay as close to original diameter as possible may be difficult to achieve

The setup for grinding square lathe single point tools is more trouble for me than it's worth to me. For round tool bits the opposite is true, especially small dia., as they don't rotate in your fingers and you keep good control.

Both the grinder and the jig need to be firmly mounted on the same base to avoid out of sync vibes between the 2, (something I need to fix when I find the right piece of tree). This may explain why I haven't sharpened any flutes.


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

Maryak,

Thank you.  My options, beside yours, include a Wilson T&C grinder, though perhaps part count reduced, and the Quorn, or the Willis ( A Quorn on steroids...with some nice features) or perhaps a Stent. MEW had a bar stock version of the Stent that they published concurrently with HSM.

I think I should just pick one and get on with it... ;D

Dave


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## ksouers (Sep 20, 2008)

Wow! Excellent examples from everyone!  :bow:

All of it beautiful work.

I can only hope to aspire to this level of craftsmanship. It's been many decades since I last used machinery in earnest and I'm afraid it shows.

Thank you, everyone.

Keep it coming, guys!


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

This is the Wilson....the one I am leaning towards.


Mr. Wilson obviously had a large supply of steel plate. I think I will combine some parts and reduce parts count.....but this concept is near the front of the line, for what I do. It will do endmills and lathe tools.

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u27/mcandrew1894/786e.jpg


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## Mcgyver (Sep 20, 2008)

Dave, in photobucket it presents you different ways to link, I just went back and edited my post; deleted the 'image' link and pasted a 'direct' link

Eric, the roller appeared years ago in MEW so no i didn't design it, just converted from that nasty French measuring system


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## Brass_Machine (Sep 20, 2008)

Mcgyver  said:
			
		

> ...
> 
> Eric, the roller appeared years ago in MEW so no i didn't design it, just converted from that nasty French measuring system



I am going to see if I can find that as a back issue. I need one for an upcoming project and do not want to buy one.

Eric


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## itowbig (Sep 20, 2008)

mcgyver you got plans for the tube bender. if so i sure would like some or a link to some if you would please. thats a nice bender. i think i saw some somewhere on the web. i see so many tools that are made in the home shop im just in awww. thank you all for posting pics i enjoy looking at them all.
i get inspired when i can look and read about these great tools that are built. better yet that can be built at the home shop. i never before imagined that one could do this until i got the bug. ;D


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## ksouers (Sep 20, 2008)

Mcgyver, I agree, all those tools are wonderful! I'm particularly intrigued by the drill bit sharpener, though. Could we persuade you to post a couple build threads on the sharpener and bender?


Steamer,
Could you give some details on the cross drilling fixture? That looks interesting.


Anyone else, please jump in. Post the tools you've made, no matter how modest or grand they may be.


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## carbide_burner (Sep 20, 2008)

Here is my angle plate work in progress. Soon I will be able to mill!!!! - (Just in case you were wondering, I milled the slots at work.) I have many plans to make more attachments for the lathe, of which most was inspired by this forum! I plan to finish my Laminar flow engine, and then go into some serious machine tool building. Keep those pics coming!


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## itowbig (Sep 20, 2008)

heres some crude stuff













this is for the 8x12 lathe easy chuck bolt removal


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## Peter Neill (Sep 20, 2008)

Here's another example of the ubiquitous ball turner.
This one was made from an original design for a Logan lathe by Holescreek (mike) over on the PM forum, then re-designed to fit my Myford.
It's very smooth in the cut with the taper roller bearing.






Here are the component parts






First job was cutting a concave radius in a lump of brass to fix a ceiling light fitting for the MIL. Even with the large amount of 'stick-out' on the cutter it was still chatter free, although as someone remarked after seeing the photo, brass makes heroes of us all.






Mike was quite happy to make the plans freely available, and punted out loads of copies, but I haven't seen anyone else's efforts on it yet.

Peter


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## CrewCab (Sep 20, 2008)

Sid  :bow:

Nothing crude there mate, all dam good stuff.

Top class thread guys, keep up the good work ................ where's the "whip" smiley when you need it ???

CC


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## Twinsquirrel (Sep 20, 2008)

> where's the "whip" smiley when you need it Huh?



I think that's on the "other" forum you frequent CC ;D


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## Peter Neill (Sep 20, 2008)

Here's a simple vice-held bending fixture I made to bend some alumiinium brackets.
Unfortunately all the good ones were finished and gone before I ended up taking pictures, and the example shown was made on a scrap piece.

The bracket was a bit of a pain, as the parts had a full radius on each end with a 10mm hole where the edge was just 2.5mm back from the radius.
I made up a pin through the block to locate the hole, then a used a plate across the front (which I couldn't find for these pics) to pinch it when held in the vice.
The block was made with an included angle of 86 deg to allow for springback in the Aluminium.

In practice it was very simple to use, just held in the bench vice, and did an adequate job of bending without problems.

























Peter


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

Hi Guys,

The cross drilling fixture was written up in Model Engine Magazine a short time ago. Here's a model of it.




It was inspired by you Brits, only I don't remove the compound.
It mounts on an AXA wedge tool post. I milled the vees with a single flute csink and an end mill right in the lathe it's used in. That way the vee groove is exactly on center.  It's great for all kinds of things like boring bars and notching tubing. The design has two vee's One large and one small.  It also has an endstop for repetative work.  It doesn come in handy and since I keep the tool post square and parallel to the lathe long axis, It's ready in seconds to cross drill.


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## CrewCab (Sep 20, 2008)

Twinsquirrel  said:
			
		

> I think that's on the "other" forum you frequent CC ;D



Dam  ............ spotted   ......   R U a member too TS :..........  :big:

OK guys ....... back to the real world ;D

CC


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## CrewCab (Sep 20, 2008)

Blimey chaps :bow:

I've just gone back and re-read this thread and I can only say ...........* I hate you all * ;D ........... as I now have 6 more pages of

"Things I must Build" ............ to add to the already long list   :wall:

Thanks guys .............. as ever ............ you are all ............. an inspiration 

CC


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## ksouers (Sep 20, 2008)

Steamer,
I take it that block sits dead bottom on the tool post? Do you flip it over to use the other groove?


CC,
Care to share that list? ;D


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

YES and YES

If you have a slightly buggered up compound, you may want to clean it up first.


Dave


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## John S (Sep 20, 2008)

I have a simpler version of the centre drilling jig but my ISP has locked me out of my web dump where all the pics are.

I'll post it tomorrow when they have woken up.

.


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

Ok John.


By the way...Mine flips over...


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## John S (Sep 20, 2008)

Mine rotates 350 degrees 8)

When I can get the picture :-[

.


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

Oh.. 

I rotate mine by turning the compound.  I leave my compound on 30 degrees and set the toolpost square/parallel to the spindle.

I don't think that is what you mean though....I look forward to your pictures. ;D

Dave


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## John S (Sep 20, 2008)

Aahhaa 
Finally got into the ISP.






Nothing new, been out years but so simple and handy, fits any Morse 2 tailstock.

.


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

OOOOOK! ;D

Now I get it.  That is very simple...a crotch center which for most items is the cats backside. ;D Hell they were standard equipment on a lot of lathes when people in industry actually had to know how to run manual machines.

Mine is just a copy of the British version but made to mount on the post.  Less of a hassel than pulling the compound off....... but dropping that crotch center into the tailstock....or even the headstock for that matter, sure is quick and simple. 

Dave


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## John S (Sep 20, 2008)

Something I made last year.






It's an air tapper, I bought the reversible head and the collets from a guy who sells the whole lot on Ebay.
They want 800 UKP for the whole lot but agreed to sell me the head and collets for 300 UKP as I told them I already had the frame. [ I didn't but for 500 notes I could make one ]

Their frame was only pressed steel and bushed.
Mine is 40mm square box, 4mm thick with bosses and sealed bearings, it has a gas strut on the back out of an X3 mill and is balanced to be neutral.

The pic was taken as it was being built, in fact it hadn't been piped up at that point, it has since been powder coated.
It works absolutely fine, taps down to 3mm without snapping a tap and so quick.
I should have bought one or made one years ago it's so good. It can swivel and reach anywhere on the bench.

.


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## steamer (Sep 20, 2008)

Now _that's_ cool 

Whats the largest it will handle?  3/8-16 was nut busting when I made the faceplate..didn't help that the tap wasn't too sharp either...a power tapper would have been handy though.

Dave


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## John S (Sep 20, 2008)

This one has the clutches from 3mm to 12 mm so it should do 1/2"

You can get different heads but tis one seemed to suit what I do the best.

.


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## Brass_Machine (Sep 20, 2008)

Ok John... That tapper is very cool. care to do some drawings on your design for us?

Eric


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## kustomkb (Sep 20, 2008)

nice work! I used one in a shop where i worked, the adjustable clutch in those units are great, we could do 2-56 in copper and 1/2-13 
no problem. I also thought of building my own swing arm. I'll try ebay. thanks for the tip.


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## John S (Sep 21, 2008)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> Ok John... That tapper is very cool. care to do some drawings on your design for us?
> 
> Eric



There are no drawings, this is my way of working. I searched the Internet for designs, no make that pictures, and there are two common methods, the fixed column and two pantograph arms and the 4 linked pantograph arm type.
I plumped for the 3 arm type as it would be quicker to build.
The lengths of the arms are determined by how far you need to reach. I wanted to get anywhere on the bench including the 2 vises so that gave me the length.
Material in stock was 40mm x 4 mm thick box so that gave me some sizes.
Each of the 2 pantograph arms were drilled close to the end as possible with a 30mm drill on the Bridgy whist they were both tack welded together. this gives equal pivot points.

Eight pieces of 30mm bare were drilled and counterbored to take 8 stock bearings with a 8mm bore, these were cut to 42 mm long so they stand proud and don't foul the arms. These were tack welded inside from the ends of the arms.
The arms were left open as it was just wasting time to cap them [ just my take ]

Four side plate were cut from flat plate and three of these were laid on the ground and the arms laid on them, one was the back fixed plate and the other two represented the max and min movements. Once that had beel worked out the holes were transfered thru and the plates drill as pairs.

The fixed arm was cut to 50 degrees I think it was on the power saw, two 40mm bars were again drilled and counterbored for stock bearings with a 15mm hole. one was welded into place and two long pieces of 15mm bar were pushed thru and the end measured so the offset was the same between both ends and the second slug tack weld, more checking, then more tacks, finally welding the whole lot up.

A bit of sanding with an angle grinder and the bottom pivot made to fit the bottom slug and it was ready to have a block made where one side fitted the side plates and the other end fitted the bought head.

Assemble is just a few bolts but I did put a thin 8mm washer on each of the arm bearings to space it and stop the bearing rubbing on the side plates.

If someone wants the pivot layout for mine I can do a quick and dirty drawing, it certainly won't be in 3D ;D

Ironically it turned out well because I was doing a job that required one 6mm hole to be tapped into this laser cut bar on it's end. The bar could be drilled in the Bridgy but not tapped as the table wouldn't drop low enough to get the tapping head in so I was drilling these and tapping by hand as none of my machines had the reach to do these bars.

These usually can in in batches of 40 at a time so it wasn't too bad.
I had arranged to pick the head up at the Harrogate show and just before the show they upped the order to 180.
When I got back from the show it then stood at 380.
So it took me about just over a day, full time to make this hence the no paint and by the time the bars were delivered it was done and 380 bars were drilled and tapped in 6 hours.
That paid for the head outright, it cost 2 broken drills and no taps.

So far I have broken one tap and that was a 6mm one that just went part way in a hole for some reason, most of the time it's working on 4,5 and 6mm threads in alloy on these CNC conversions.

.


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## Mcgyver (Sep 21, 2008)

Kevin, here are some details on the sharpener build and also the tube bender (no build photos of it)

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=24051

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=14890


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## ksouers (Sep 21, 2008)

Thanks Mcgyver. That grinder fixture is a very interesting project. Well done. :bow:


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## steamer (Sep 21, 2008)

Learn something new every day!

Mcgyver, that grinding fixture great!....wish I could weld, but I can braze.

I really like how you finished that.

Dave


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## CrewCab (Sep 21, 2008)

Mcgyver  said:
			
		

> here are some details on the sharpener build and also the tube bender



Nice write up's .................. and very nice work  8)

CC


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## John S (Sep 21, 2008)

Proof of the pudding, just found this pic tonight when I was looking for some info on the tapping arm.







That made the bench grunt a bit :

.


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## ksouers (Sep 21, 2008)

Grabbed another picture of some simple items while taking a break.

Clockwise from top right:
Some angle blocks, a holder for letter stamps, parallels, v parallels, vise stop, tapping center.
The stamp holder and center I picked up as part of an estate sale. The vise stop bolts to the side of the fixed jaw of my vise. The vees were made to hold some parts in the vise that were too short for a regular v-block.


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## CrewCab (Sep 21, 2008)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> a holder for letter stamps,



Kevin ;D .................. more info needed ............. how did you get the square internal corners 8)

CC 8)


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## steamer (Sep 21, 2008)

Oh my....you do a few repeat jobs don't you John!  

I can see why you made it....how else could you have done it.

Dave


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## ksouers (Sep 21, 2008)

CC,
On the V parallels?

Easy. First squared everything up so all edges were square and parallel and all the same size. I insured size by milling them together bonded with Locktite.

I marked out the angles and hole.

Then drilled the hole at the apex of the vee. Then set up using a protractor so the top edge was at 45 degrees. That put one side of the vee parallel with the table and the other side vertical. Just milled across the horizontal until I met the line for the vertical.

I did a quick staging of the setup, picture should tell the whole story:


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## CrewCab (Sep 21, 2008)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> CC,
> On the V parallels?



Kevin ................ No .......  : ................ the holder for letter stamps 

CC


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## ksouers (Sep 21, 2008)

LOL, um... I didn't make that one.

But from looking at it, it's two pieces silver soldered together. The slot was milled, then a plate soldered across the open top.


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## CrewCab (Sep 21, 2008)

Thanks Kevin, I wondered if it was in two pieces ............ to be fair I can't see why it can't be bolted together though ???

Thanks for the info, I just bought a set of stamps and was wondering about a jig to keep things on the "straight and narrow" ;D

atb

CC 8)


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## ksouers (Sep 21, 2008)

No problem, CC.
No reason at all it can't be bolted. Though on this particular one the far edge is too thin.

I imagine it could also be soft soldered. But silver solder isn't that hard to do.


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## CrewCab (Sep 21, 2008)

Thanks Kevin, 
I'll probably have a go at something when I remember where I've put the letter stamps ???

growing old is no fun :

CC ;D


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## Bogstandard (Sep 21, 2008)

Dave,

Have a read of this before going any further with the staking project. It brings up the problem of cheapo stamps.

http://modelenginenews.org/meng/upt/tools.html

If you go to the bottom of the page, and click on UTP index, it shows you the whole article.

John


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## CrewCab (Sep 21, 2008)

Thank you John, at least it made me get off mi' butt and find where I'd put them ;D .......... OK The set's I bought, (with the idea of being able to produce dials which at least looked the part) were from RDG, who I do like to deal with 8) ........ I'm told these are "better quality" they are 2mm in height and having had a look ............. bananaitis is present  but it's quite modest so hopefully I can work around it.
Good article overall and I'll be going back to it in the future but, wouldn't using a fine grade of wet n' dry achieve a similar final result on the "digits" ........ surely it's got to be easier than machining a worn file etc  ........... just a thought.

Ta 8)

CC


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## John S (Sep 21, 2008)

Dave, 
Instead of making a holder use the straight end of one of those cheap boring tools.
The type where you get one square at 90 degrees and the other at 45 degrees.

Handy for doing dials, enrave then in the chuck of the lathe with a tool on it's side than with the boring bar held on a bracket on the cross slide you can get the stamp over the dial and thump the letters on dead square and equally spaced

Bit of a plug here but if you want good quality stamps try the ones Arc sells, I checked out about 10 sample sets before Ketan ordered from the factory he has done. They are the best quality I have seen for a long while, far better than the Indian tat most of the others carry.
.


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## John S (Sep 22, 2008)

I modified these to make them more accurate and swap easily from imperial to metric.






.


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## ksouers (Sep 22, 2008)

;D ;D ;D


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## Bogstandard (Sep 22, 2008)

No good for me John, that is a left handed one. 

Bogs


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## CrewCab (Sep 22, 2008)

John Stevenson  said:
			
		

> Instead of making a holder use the straight end of one of those cheap boring tools.
> The type where you get one square at 90 degrees and the other at 45 degrees.



John, 
My brain is not working at peak efficiency today .......... can I have a picture 

Ta


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## Cedge (Sep 22, 2008)

John
I can die happy now that I know I can bugger up hex head bolts with absolute accuracy...LOL... Perfection!!

Steve


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## Maryak (Oct 7, 2008)

Was looking for an old wood chisel, (Don't ask :) and came across this gizmo in the photo.

Looking at the name stamped in the wooden handle which is possibly ebony, I think it was my Great Great Grandfathers and thus mid 19th Century.

Any ideas what it may be ??? ??? ??? Point at one end wood type chisel at an angle at the other.

Regards
Bob


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## jack404 (Oct 7, 2008)

Bob,  have something very similar but not ebony ( 

it was used with veneers for intricate veneer work 

i used it as a leather engraver but the original usage was veneer work i forget the name sorry.

grandafther was a very high level art deco furniture maker in his day

cheers

jack


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## Maryak (Oct 7, 2008)

Thanks Jack,

That fits with what I know about him, I still have his old wooden planes and chisels and in the UK at my cousins home is a large dresser type thing all made without nails or screws, just wooden pegs and dovetail joints.

Regards
Bob


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## Kludge (Oct 7, 2008)

John Stevenson  said:
			
		

> I modified these to make them more accurate and swap easily from imperial to metric.



Well, now we know who's selling them on eBay. ;D

BEst regards,

Kludge


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## Bluechip (Oct 7, 2008)

Hi Bob

The flat bit is a scribing/marking knife. Used across grain with a square, avoiding fingers preferably , to mark a joint.

Cuts the into the grain so it doesn't tear when joint is sawn.

Still common in joinery. 

I've got one.

Not as posh as that tho'.

Mines similar to this, only cheaper

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=21839&name=marking+knife&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0

dave


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## Maryak (Oct 8, 2008)

Thanks Bluechip,

Never was much of a woodworker, the bits come off to fast for me and I make too many blunders.

Regards
Bob


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## MattMoore (Oct 8, 2008)

One more thing to note about your marking knife,
The knife is for cutting across the grain,
the other end (awl) is used for marking with the grain


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## Maryak (Oct 10, 2008)

MattMoore,

Thanks for further enlightenment on my little find. :bow:

They new much more than we give them credit for didn't they.

I found and old, (early 1900's), book about making piston rings and then a paper on the internet about piston ring tribology, with umpteen nifty formula for calculating the ring blank dimensions.

The 1900's book talked in 1/64" terms and the other xxxxxx decimal places. When I compared one result with the other, they were within a few thou of each other  

Thanks again, me and my ancestor can now rest in peace.

Regards
Bob


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## CrewCab (Oct 12, 2008)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Thanks again, me and my ancestor can now rest in peace.


Your Ancestor perhaps Bob : .............. but for you I'm afraid it's an eternity on HMEM ............... so no peace ..... but ... just have fun 

CC


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## Maryak (Oct 13, 2008)

CC

Ashes to Ashes
and Dust to Dust
But no oil on steel
And you end up with Rust

Best Regards
Bob :


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## jrlandau (Oct 26, 2008)

I'm shooting for the "grungiest tool" award ;D: this is a buffer I made when I noticed that a defunct electric motor still has 2 bearings a foot or so apart, and right in line. So I threw out the armature, cut a hole in the housing for a belt, and made a nice shaft with a RH thread on one end and a LH on the other. Maybe the most-used tool in my shop.


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## tel (Oct 26, 2008)

Nuttin' grungy about that one mate - do you want me to look after it for a few years for you?


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