# Craftsman 109 Lathe



## Foozer

Here that a few of these are hidden away behind work benches and other objects long forgotten.Been described throughout the range of "Cute" to "Boat Anchor" But its what I'm stuck with and if it can turn out a Rocker Motor I'll slide it toward the "Cute" category.

So I have the 109-20630 model, sleeve bearing head stock and all. Have most of the change gears and the threading dial gizmo. Changed the motor over to a treadmill variable speed DC type and am very happy with the results.

So now that the "Rocker Fever" has passed its time to fix some of the little things that need attention. First off is the cross slide. Time to get it into a smoother operational condition, has yet to be seen.

Original gib plate is steel, just doesn't like to slide as well as I'd like. Using a vertical slide to fly cut stock just plain gets hard on the fingers. Loosen the gib to ease the turns and well, that don't work. So cut one out of brass, its natural slipperiness ought to help some.

Before that, I spent some time with some 600 paper on a piece of glass and ran the separate components over it a bit to identify and knock down any high spots. Not looking to remove metal, just enough back and forth to get a consistent shinny surface. Then some Bon-Ami and oil mix, more back and forth till it felt decent. Enough for today.

Next is the addition of another screw for gib adjustment. It only has 2, one at each end and at extreme travels the ends sorta hang out in mid air. That can be improved.







Robert


----------



## black85vette

I picked one up at an estate sale pretty cheap. I added the third screw also. Replaced the rear carriage gibb with one made of brass and moved the contact points to the outside rather than the single center point. Then drilled and tapped for two adjusting screws. One on each end rather than the wing nut in the middle. Helped stop the rocking of the carriage.  Machined a new rear spindle bearing.  Removed the pin holding the knob on the compound and installed a steel collar with a set screw so I could adjust it. Replaced the crank on the cross slide with a knurled knob and again put a steel collar on it with a set screw so the lash could be adjusted. 

It won't replace my Atlas 12" but after tightening everything up it made some fairly good cuts. It will cut 1" steel with a HSS tool and take .018 cuts without complaining.  It does OK if I don't push it hard.  Does require some effort to get it tight enough to work properly. 

Not quite a boat anchor. Nice thing is that it is really easy to move and small enough to put on a shelf when it is not used.


----------



## Foozer

black85vette  said:
			
		

> I picked one up at an estate sale pretty cheap. I added the third screw also. Replaced the rear carriage gibb with one made of brass and moved the contact points to the outside rather than the single center point. Then drilled and tapped for two adjusting screws. One on each end rather than the wing nut in the middle. Helped stop the rocking of the carriage. Machined a new rear spindle bearing. Removed the pin holding the knob on the compound and installed a steel collar with a set screw so I could adjust it. Replaced the crank on the cross slide with a knurled knob and again put a steel collar on it with a set screw so the lash could be adjusted.



You do know the machine  Sounds like my "To Do List"


Robert


----------



## bearcar1

I'm following along with you Fooz', in the interest of perhaps doing some mods to the 109 that I have. For those of you not familiar with these machines here is a picture of what one looks like so that you may better understand what Fooz' and others are talking about. They are terrific small machines and many are still around in use. This one was used all of its life in a auto atore to turn armatures for generators etc. My Father picked it up for a few dollars and gave it to me. I in turn, took it apart and cleaned it up and what you see is the end result. I just need to get a manual for it as well as a motor and I'll be all set. 

BC1
Jim


----------



## Deanofid

I also have a 109, model 20630, besides a couple of other lathes. I've done most of the things described here, plus some. The people who say it's a boat anchor probably just don't know how to listen to the machine. It's not a Heavy 10, and can't be treated like one.

After making a rear bearing, buying a new front one, making a spindle nose adapter that will take a good chuck, replacing all the gibs with brass, putting in a third gib adjusting screw on the cross slide and some proper adjusters for the carriage gib, this little lathe works just fine. It's over 60 years old and it just needed a little fixing up.

You can see my 109 adventures on my Craftsman AA pages;

http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/109/109a.html


----------



## black85vette

bearcar1  said:
			
		

> . I just need to get a manual for it as well as a motor and I'll be all set.
> 
> BC1
> Jim



I just used the motor from my bench grinder with a 2" pully and screwed it down to some MDF with the lathe as a test set up.

I have a parts list and a bunch of materials from different sources on the web. I will forward anything I have by email.

Dave; I like the chuck mount project you did. I bought an adapter from Littlemachineshop that allows you to use any of the 7x10 lathe chucks on the 109. Since I had a 3 jaw, 4 jaw and face plate the $18 seemed cheap for the adapter. I just had to get it square, face it and then trim it to fit the back of the chucks.


----------



## Foozer

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> I also have a 109, model 20630, besides a couple of other lathes. I've done most of the things described here, plus some. The people who say it's a boat anchor probably just don't know how to listen to the machine. It's not a Heavy 10, and can't be treated like one.
> 
> After making a rear bearing, buying a new front one, making a spindle nose adapter that will take a good chuck, replacing all the gibs with brass, putting in a third gib adjusting screw on the cross slide and some proper adjusters for the carriage gib, this little lathe works just fine. It's over 60 years old and it just needed a little fixing up.
> 
> You can see my 109 adventures on my Craftsman AA [pages;]




Not a heavy for sure. Bent the first spindle, replaced it with one that had a 3/4 16 nose already cut into it. Allows for the Taig chuck to be mounted. That in itself was a vast improvement.

Don't worry I've gone over every detail of your "109 Adventures" and plan on stealing err, utilizing your ideas. 



> Posted by: black85vette
> 
> I bought an adapter from Littlemachineshop that allows you to use any of the 7x10 lathe chucks on the 109.



Also went that route. Worried a bit about how far past the spindle bearing the standard chucks (also from LMS) were. The cantilevered force seemed a tad to much. I did bend a spindle or two before the :wall: set in. The Taig chuck brings the work a lot closer to the bearing. Havent bent a spindle since.

Robert


----------



## Foozer

Spent some more time with the cross slide. Good, but its pushing 100 degrees here today, and for this part of the globe that's a heat wave. Playing with some water and wet/dry paper seemed like a reasonable thing to do.

used a magic marker to see what the high low spots were. part looks smooth but the marker tells all






Some low spots, Chasing my tail but ran the part over 220 grit down on a piece of glass. Kinda a back and forth routine. Sand a little, check with marker etc. Soon enough the point of diminishing return occurs and its called good. Marker up the mating piece, snugged the gib and ran it from one end to the other. Not really much of an improvement in the action from the earlier, but does show an improved contact area. Couple spots still low, I can live with it.






Small binding? increase in force occurs at the far forward end of travel. Best I can measure the width shows the dovetails are about 0.002 wider at one end than the other. Thought about trying to whittle that down but decided I'd probably hose it up, so leave it be for now.

Robert


----------



## cfellows

Yeah, the cross slide on a lathe tends to wear faster where it's most used. So the dovertail is probably a tad wider at the back extreme. Now, if you had a mill, you could take care of that... :'(

Chuck


----------



## Foozer

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Yeah, the cross slide on a lathe tends to wear faster where it's most used. So the dovertail is probably a tad wider at the back extreme. Now, if you had a mill, you could take care of that... :'(
> 
> Chuck



Its on the list, 6 more months and I meet the 2 year bit on property conversion, no capital gains  So what Uncle SAM doesn't get, some vendor will.

Couldn't leave it alone, so spent an hour or so with some 220 grit stuck between the slide and dovetails. Worked the tight end a bit. I know it taint exactly the way to do it. Did free it up a bit and I'd really better leave it alone for now while I'm on the good side of bad.

I'd hate to see what a good one feels like, ruin my whole conception of "Not Bad"

Robert


----------



## black85vette

Looking good. I didn't do that much work on the cross slide. Just enough to clean it up and make it smooth.

Here is a picture of my cross slide. I turned some spacers and replaced the slotted screws that adjust the gibb with some hex set screws and then put a locking nut on them so the adjustment would stay put. Had to add the spacers because the nuts were dragging on the top of the carriage. I added the nuts to the compound front and rear screws but not the new center one. It would have hit the nut holding the compound in place.


----------



## Foozer

These old lathes seem to be popping up from the deep dark 

Goofing off past few days, watching the hydro races today but did get another little irritant crossed off the list.

Cross Slide feed screw. BLAH! source of play, may not be able to kill it all but should be able to reduce it.

Had some thrust bearings, had used em before but never really finished it. Needed a new hand wheel, for some reason I just avoided making one.

So the bits and pieces. Took the original screw shaft and added a cross pin to hold the inboard bearing retainer, bearings are 0.375 id and shaft is 0.312 od. Made outboard retainer and drilled tapped outboard end of screw for a 10-32 hand wheel retaining bolt.






Thinking the retaining bolt wouldn't prevent the hand wheel from rotating on the shaft i tried cutting a little slot into the wheels id.

Used an eighth inch tool bit and feed it into the bore shaving a bit at a time. Took a while but got what I was after, a little pin protruding from the shaft slips into the slot, that'll get it from slipping on me.






Put er all together, snugged down the retaining bolt to preload the bearings for a gentle drag. Time will tell 






Would of liked to of added some sort of bearing shield but the OD of the bearings just clear the slide as is. Case of having cake, but cant eat it..

Robert


----------



## black85vette

Again you out did me. I made a new cross feed knob also but just put a steel collar on it with a set screw. I put in a feeler gauge snug everything up and tighten the set screw. Took almost all the play out of the cross slide.

Nice job on yours!


----------



## Deanofid

That new handwheel and bearings are a good addition, Robert. 
I like this method of keyway cutting, too. A good way of doing things for us "under funded" machinists who don't want to pop for a broaching set.

Dean


----------



## Foozer

black85vette  said:
			
		

> Again you out did me. I made a new cross feed knob also but just put a steel collar on it with a set screw. I put in a feeler gauge snug everything up and tighten the set screw. Took almost all the play out of the cross slide.
> 
> Nice job on yours!



Just used what was laying around. If I didnt have the bearings your method would of been the route.



> Posted by: Deanofid
> 
> That new handwheel and bearings are a good addition, Robert.
> I like this method of keyway cutting, too. A good way of doing things for us "under funded" machinists who don't want to pop for a broaching set.



Its a long way from a viable option. Lots of stress on the carriage even just shaving a few thou at a time. 

Robert


----------



## Foozer

Just added the "Third" gib adj screw. Filled a little flat on the side, drilled and tapped for a 10-32. Simple thing, results are well worth the 20 minutes, a much smother action.

Remaining backlash is found to be coming from the nut that the feed screw engages. The nut rocks a bit in that center hole. Couple of ideas thinking about to reduce that. Make a new nut that attaches to the slide itself or find some spring washer to fit between the nuts top and compound base. leaning towards the first choice.






Also while I'm goofing with this, should change the gib screw to a positive lock while maintaining the DI mount and adjustment.

Robert


----------



## Deanofid

I've been thinking the same thing about that feed screw "plug" on mine, too, Robert. The one in my 109 is just loosey goosey! A definite source of slop. It's an easy turning project, and seems that just making a new one with a nice close fit would help a lot. There's so much slop in mine that you could throw a can in there and it would have room to run around. It's for another day in the shop, but it's on my list. 

About that little broaching rig you made, I think it's a viable option if you have no other way to do it! I've seen similar set-ups in some hobby machining mags I have around here. If it made you a good key way, then good on ya.

Dean


----------



## Tin Falcon

Guys:
 I have been watching these mods intently . I have a couple 109s in my basement. It seems that one of the inherant flaws with these machines is that the manual longitudinal feed jams up even with the Power feed lever in the center /nuetral position the manual feed is stopped by gears not quite mesing right . How do you deal with this?
Tin


----------



## Foozer

Tin Falcon  said:
			
		

> Guys:
> I have been watching these mods intently . I have a couple 109s in my basement. It seems that one of the inherant flaws with these machines is that the manual longitudinal feed jams up even with the Power feed lever in the center /nuetral position the manual feed is stopped by gears not quite mesing right . How do you deal with this?
> Tin



I stick a piece of 0.020 wire between the gear teeth when ever I change the gears. Mesh seems quiet under power then. 

Manual . . . Changed the hand wheel to a 4 inch version, easier on the wrist to turn. Put thrust bearings on each side of that right side bearing block to reduce the backlash there. Trial and error with the gear mesh clearance reduced that "jam" to just about zero. 


Something else on the To-Do list. Check out and reduce the gear play. And I'm still fretting making a new tailstock ram 

Robert


----------



## black85vette

Agree. Mine seemed to do it at regular intervals. So I started being really critical with my gear lash and fixed it. They are somewhat finicky. I much preferred to just take the gear off the end of the lead screw. Trial and error seems to be about the best approach.


----------



## Deanofid

I do the same thing as Vette. Take the drive gear off the left end of the lead screw. 

I can turn the lead screw hand wheel okay with the gear on the lead screw and the feed set to neutral, but there is a bit of extra effort because you're turning all the feed gears up to the tumbler. If the back lash on the gears is set well, it's not too much effort, but if the gears are a little tight, it's hard to turn. You're trying to power a ratio from high to low, and if the two top gears are a little tight, it's like trying to take off in a car in high gear.


----------



## Foozer

Tailstock Ram

Having issues with mounting a chuck upon the tail stock ram has finally brought me to the "Fab a new one" stage. A completed version can be found HERE and this is my attempt at same.

Started with a piece of 1144 and rough turned to shape. That stuff likes a sharp bit with the little round over on the point, and on center for any hope of a decent finish.







While bring down to size the diameter was checked and tailstock "nudged" to reduce the taper. The 109's are finicky in this regard so its a constant check and double check. 

End of the day the shaft came to a dia of 0.501 across the length of it plus or minus half a tenth thousand. Took for me changing from the live center to a dead center for the final cuts.






Thread cutting time and of course, the one change gear I needed I didnt have. Flea bay and a week later one ea gear in the mail and time to reset up for threading. Piece back in and after a few bumps here and there the part is again inline. At this point I touched up the face that will register the drill chuck. Part is dead on between centers so the register face should be right on square to the shaft axis, at least i hope so 






Back to the live center which is one reason for this part being made, gain a little extra room between tailstock and slide. Lots of cutting fluid and did the threading. Have never done this before, yet it went along well. Slow speed, ran it to one end, stopped machine, ran in reverse to bring bit back to start, feed bit in a little and repeated process till thread depth was perhaps 60-70 %. Still had a bit of flat on the surface. Finished with a regular die, actually turned out fairly decent. Lots of cutting oil






Put a little undercut at the thread base. Now its time to drill and tap the hole for the Ram feed screw on one end and ponder what to do with the other.

Robert


----------



## Deanofid

This is a good improvement for the old 109s, Robert. Keep 'er up!


----------



## Foozer

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> This is a good improvement for the old 109s, Robert. Keep 'er up!



Drilling that hole for the 5/16 24LH thread now. Would like to keep the travel at least 1 inch or better. I see that you made it at 3/4, wondered why but am getting the picture. The deeper the tap the slower it goes, tap a turn or two, all the way out to clear chips and repeat. Ah nothing but time


----------



## zeeprogrammer

Looks like you're making good progress.

How did you come by having a 109?


----------



## Foozer

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Looks like you're making good progress.
> 
> How did you come by having a 109?



What happens when you stop at a garage sale and go "OH Shinny Thing"

I live for Pain 

Robert


----------



## black85vette

I got the one I had from ebay. Bidding was low and it was a "pick up only" in Chicago. Checked with my son who was then living in Chicago to be sure he could go get it and placed a low bid. Ended up getting it and then doing a fairly complete rebuild and doing most of the mods and updates on it. Then put it on Craigs List and found it a new home. If the price is low enough I might end up buying almost anything I think I can sell for more.


----------



## Deanofid

Foozer  said:
			
		

> Drilling that hole for the 5/16 24LH thread now. Would like to keep the travel at least 1 inch or better. I see that you made it at 3/4, wondered why but am getting the picture. The deeper the tap the slower it goes, tap a turn or two, all the way out to clear chips and repeat. Ah nothing but time



Robert, the travel on mine is just shy of an inch. That's as long as the thread cutting portion on the tap I had.
The 3/4" part you saw was for the stub end of the crank handle end. It's screwed onto the threaded rod that sticks out of the back end of the tail stock.

Dean


----------



## Foozer

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Robert, the travel on mine is just shy of an inch. That's as long as the thread cutting portion on the tap I had.
> The 3/4" part you saw was for the stub end of the crank handle end. It's screwed onto the threaded rod that sticks out of the back end of the tail stock.
> 
> Dean



Got Ya. Yup and the travel is limited by the position of the little key screw that keeps the ram from rotating, so an inch or a tad better is about all one can get.

But not to fear, as I'm chuckling as I write, I hosed up the part. Thinking I could just drill through the center line, bring it up to a .312 thru all save about a half inch of thread for the crank screw. Duh, when I turned down the little relief at the end for the drill chuck I went just a tad to deep. Something about a 375 dia relief and a 312 hole, not a lot of meat left. It'll shear sooner or later so attempt number 2 coming up

Chuckling again 

Robert


----------



## singleken45

Foozer  said:
			
		

> Here that a few of these are hidden away behind work benches and other objects long forgotten.Been described throughout the range of "Cute" to "Boat Anchor" But its what I'm stuck with and if it can turn out a Rocker Motor I'll slide it toward the "Cute" category.
> 
> So I have the 109-20630 model, sleeve bearing head stock and all. Have most of the change gears and the threading dial gizmo. Changed the motor over to a treadmill variable speed DC type and am very happy with the results.
> 
> So now that the "Rocker Fever" has passed its time to fix some of the little things that need attention. First off is the cross slide. Time to get it into a smoother operational condition, has yet to be seen.
> 
> Original gib plate is steel, just doesn't like to slide as well as I'd like. Using a vertical slide to fly cut stock just plain gets hard on the fingers. Loosen the gib to ease the turns and well, that don't work. So cut one out of brass, its natural slipperiness ought to help some.
> 
> Before that, I spent some time with some 600 paper on a piece of glass and ran the separate components over it a bit to identify and knock down any high spots. Not looking to remove metal, just enough back and forth to get a consistent shinny surface. Then some Bon-Ami and oil mix, more back and forth till it felt decent. Enough for today.
> 
> Next is the addition of another screw for gib adjustment. It only has 2, one at each end and at extreme travels the ends sorta hang out in mid air. That can be improved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Robert


----------



## bronson

I have the stub gears and idler gears everything but change gears for one of these lathes if anyone needs them i will have to dig them up let me know.


----------



## Skywalker

Greetings....

New to the forum...new to 109 Lathes...ready to jump in with like-minded people and learn more.

Picking up a 109 next week. Ready to do modifications, and explore her limitations.

I want to tighten up, and perform the mods mentioned here. Also want to build a radius/ball turner right away.
I was thinking about using a spare compound base and adding/adapting a tool holder from there...
I would really like to correspond with more 109 users. (Not meaning to hi-jack the thread, sorry.)

I'm not a model engine builder, Im a custom motorcycle builder/restorer. We do much of the same things, I just ride them when finished. 

Thanks in advance! 

-Luke


----------



## Tin Falcon

> Im a custom motorcycle builder/restorer.


we will try not to hold that against you LOL. 


IMHO the first and most used mod to any lathe is a quick change tool holder. 

What type of ball turning tool are you planning on /considering. 

http://bedair.org/Ball/BALL_TURNING_TOOLPOST.pdf

http://littlemachineshop.com/Instructions/SmallRadiustoolinstructions.pdf

I have a couple of 109s so may be able to help some . Have not done a lot of mods or used them much. 

Tin


----------



## Skywalker

Thanks Tin Falcon....most likely going to build a bedair type tool.
I will keep you posted.


----------



## Skywalker

Here is my Atlas 109, picking her up tomorrow. 

I have a few parts on the way:
New brass replacement gibs.
New spindle with 1/2-20 threads for Jacob's chuck.
1/2" Jacobs chuck and key.
A quick change tool set-up, also with a parting tool.

Plan on adding the third gib screw right away, along with dis-assembly and cleaning/lubing.

Also working on the radius turning design, as we (I) speak.  

I have a new bench made for her. Topped with 1/4" plate and stiffened with angle. I hope by adding the weight and security, harmonics will be reduced. 

-Luke


----------



## Skywalker

Here is the quick change set-up I just purchased.
--Made in the USA!

This should be an improvement over the lantern style 109 tool holder.


----------



## Skywalker

I finally got my 109 home...
Did a test cut, of course, like a 12 year old kid, I couldn't wait.
Kinda rough. Much looseness in the gibs???
so I started taking things apart.
This is what I found, and this is my repair.
I may have to add a larger solid block and a third screw,
but this will do for now. Going to try another test cut.

Setting things up...cleaning and lubing.


----------



## Skywalker

Tightened up considerably...
the cuts are still very grainy. Its leaving lines, not looking like a lathe should.
Any advice???
No sure of the quality of the bits...or anything else.
Also have an issue with the tailstock. There has been a larger Jacobs chuck added,
but the taper looks home-made. I know these 109's don't have a STD #0,
the previous owner told me it was a MT#2. Clearly not. It wobbles and bottoms quickly...pushing itself out.
I have a new taper and chuck on the way. Hope that make it usable. Cant even drill with it like it is.
-Luke


----------



## Tin Falcon

'A poor finish can be caused by many things learn the basics. 


back off on tail stock the taper should seat. 

The tapers likely will be shop made I made a few. 

for my two.

Tin


----------



## Skywalker

I should receive my new chuck and taper in a few days...I'll hope to see an improvement.
( now the chuck attachment 'bottoms' in the hole before becoming tight.)
I've started reading up on the basics...much to learn.
This machine has been 'monkey'd up' by the previous owner...much to sort out.
Tons of gear noise, and a mysterious spring holding up on the arm inside the gear box...
Will look at that today, after mounting and leveling. 
Thanks T.F.!

-Luke


----------



## Skywalker

Also, there is a 4 jaw chuck that came with it, but I cannot get the 3 jaw off the spindle.
The previous owner replaced the shaft and bearings and installed the 3-jaw.
Wondering about the conditions of the threads.
Any wisdom on removing the 3 jaw?
When I bought it, he said it spun within 'half a thou'...its more like .018"
Disappointing.
-Luke


----------



## Skywalker

Got the 3 jaw off.  The four jaw is not the right thread, and someone buggered them up badly.
Not happy with this machine at all. I'm hoping it is set-up/tune up/learn to use it issues.
Can these things really produce light duty accurate parts?
I tried to fillister a 1/4-20 brass screw to replicate some antique hardware...it took quite awhile,
and the result was marginal. Chuck kept loosening, I stopped it twice with the bit,
and only 'scraping' can be achieved...not what I would call CUTTING. LOL

Hopefully some 109 owners can chime in and lend a hand. I've read that some say they are cute, some say a boat anchor...
at this point...mine is a cute boat anchor.


----------



## Wizard69

Skywalker said:


> Got the 3 jaw off.  The four jaw is not the right thread, and someone buggered them up badly.
> Not happy with this machine at all. I'm hoping it is set-up/tune up/learn to use it issues.
> Can these things really produce light duty accurate parts?
> I tried to fillister a 1/4-20 brass screw to replicate some antique hardware...it took quite awhile,
> and the result was marginal. Chuck kept loosening, I stopped it twice with the bit,
> and only 'scraping' can be achieved...not what I would call CUTTING. LOL
> 
> Hopefully some 109 owners can chime in and lend a hand. I've read that some say they are cute, some say a boat anchor...
> at this point...mine is a cute boat anchor.



This is probably an obvious question but is the spindle rotating in the right direction.  The chuck really shouldn't loosen while turning.  Beyond that tooling for brass needs to be sharpened correctly.


----------



## Skywalker

Wizard69 said:


> This is probably an obvious question but is the spindle rotating in the right direction.  The chuck really shouldn't loosen while turning.  Beyond that tooling for brass needs to be sharpened correctly.


 
No question is too obvious...it seems to be turning counter-clockwise, or anti-clockwise as they say across the pond...
but I will certainly check this out tonight.


----------



## werowance

well,  the 109 was my first lathe (worn out ebay purchase),  i really didnt care for it much.  as for good looking cuts with it,  my problem was that darn lantern tool post.  never could get a bit at the right height.  once i replaced it with a used regular old square tool post (not even qucik change) and put some shims under my bit i started getting a decent finish.  

all that said,  i am still very much a newbie and have had my at750 combo now for a couple of years and loving it.

good luck with your 109,  i like the mods you have done so far.


----------



## Skywalker

Added this today...

The small stock knob was cumbersome and made my fingers ache.
I took a generic spinner knob and another old lathe handle, and modified everything to work.

Getting much better results out of the 109. tightening up nice.
Learning too...


----------



## Skywalker

Started building my radius/ball turner...
not sure how it will work, but I'll post pics and results here.

I started with an extra 109 compound swivel...


----------



## Skywalker

Drilled and countersunk to attach to the base...

The lower portion supports the inner bearing race, the outer will move freely when attached.


----------



## Skywalker

Here is the bearing dropped in place...
next up to build is the top cap.


----------



## swami

Are you available to make parts for projects I am building?


----------



## Skywalker

swami said:


> Are you available to make parts for projects I am building?


 
Honestly, not used to my machine yet...still learning.
I wouldn't feel comfortable working on anything outside my little projects.


----------



## Tin Falcon

Here is a PDF copy of the manal


Craftman 109 manual


----------



## Foozer

Skywalker said:


> Greetings....
> 
> New to the forum...new to 109 Lathes...ready to jump in with like-minded people and learn more.
> 
> Picking up a 109 next week. Ready to do modifications, and explore her limitations.
> 
> 
> -Luke



I have one of those, the 3/4 spindle thread mod so a Taig chuck can be used was well worth it. It really takes patience to use the machine, good side is that does consume time away from the honey do list 


http://www.deansphotographica.com/machining/projects/109/spindle/adapter.html


----------



## Skywalker

Tin Falcon said:


> Here is a PDF copy of the manal
> 
> 
> Craftman 109 manual


 

PRICELESS>>>thank you.


----------



## Tin Falcon

As much complaints as there are about the humble 109 there is something about the old america manuals.  

I guess clear and concise comes to mind . But there was also more useful detail.

like it would give a part number for a screw and actually describe the screw. And instead of saying gear it gives a tooth count. 

today's manuals are filled with lawyer required disclaimers and safety sections.

SIEG 7 xs are decent little lathes when completed by the operator but he manuals are pretty much useless. 

Tin


----------

