# Stuart 10H



## Jeff02 (Jun 6, 2009)

Still learning, but enjoying every minute of it.


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## kartwood (Jun 6, 2009)

Hi Jeff02! 

This looks very much like my 10V. You are a bit ahead of me. Looks great!

I will probably have some questions for you..... Good luck with your project.

Kevin


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## Jeff02 (Jun 7, 2009)

Didnt get much done today, but I did finish the Valve Chest.


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## rake60 (Jun 7, 2009)

Looking GREAT Jeff! Thm:

Please keep us posted on the progress!

Rick


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## Tin Falcon (Jun 8, 2009)

Jeff did you invest in BA taps or did you change hardware size to US Sizes?
Tin


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## Jeff02 (Jun 8, 2009)

I purchased the BA, Taps and Dies.


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## steamer (Jun 8, 2009)

Jeff02,

Nicely done! I've never been very good at polishing cast iron....any secrets?

Dave


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## Jeff02 (Jun 8, 2009)

I have been using 600 grit wet and dry sand paper with a lot of elbow grease and water.
I guess I should say I start with a file, then go to sand paper starting with 300 grit and working up to 600.
BTW I have just used the 300, I save the 600 until the very last.


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## Philjoe5 (Jun 8, 2009)

Nice Jeff.  :bow: Thanks for the photos. You're getting me motivated to start my PM Research steam drilling engine.

Cheers,
Phil


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## Maryak (Jun 9, 2009)

Jeff,

Looking very nice. :bow: :bow: and one for the 600 grit :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## kellswaterri (Jun 9, 2009)

Hi Jeff, nicely done with the engine build...did you encounter any problems fitting the nuts to hold the Cylinder to the body of the engine... two things, one size Smaller nuts are available in most BA sizes...also I personally think the drawing pitch circle for the studs holding Cyl/ to engine body is a tad too small...I found this out the hard way on the Score build :
All the best for now,
              John.


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## Jeff02 (Jun 9, 2009)

Bob and John, Thanks for the kind words.

Yes I to think Diameter is too small, this is my third and on my other two I said the same thing, I think on my forth I will increase by about an 1/8 of an inch on the total diameter this will give me 1/16 a side.


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## tel (Jun 9, 2009)

Jeff02  said:
			
		

> I have been using 600 grit wet and dry sand paper with a lot of elbow grease and water.
> I guess I should say I start with a file, then go to sand paper starting with 300 grit and working up to 600.
> BTW I have just used the 300, I save the 600 until the very last.



Try some light oil with the w&d - makes a difference!


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## Jeff02 (Jun 11, 2009)

Last night!


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## deverett (Jun 12, 2009)

Jeff02  said:
			
		

>



That's a neat little oil cup. Did you use a form tool to shape it?
If you did, would you mind giving us all a blow-by-blow account of how you made the tool.

Thanks,

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## Jeff02 (Jun 12, 2009)

Sorry, but the oil cups are from PM Research. There is how ever an article in Issue 18 of Model Engine Builder on how to make them.

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/home.php?cat=23


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## Jeff02 (Jul 26, 2010)

Finishing up on some old projects.


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## steamer (Jul 26, 2010)

Oh I do like the red....much better than the green...

Dave


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## dparker (Jul 27, 2010)

Jeff02:
That looks so nice it makes me want to build that model also, except being on disability and married now the kit prices tend to scare me towards bar stock type plans . Many years ago I built the 10V and it is a real good runner and catches everybody's attention when they see it running in my basement shop. I thought when I built it I wanted to run it on steam but the thought of building a safe boiler back in the 1970's scared me enough that I just run it with my air compressor.
Good work-------don


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## Troutsqueezer (Jul 27, 2010)

Very nice, Jeff. 

I've been trying to think of a way to make engines look like they were cast but without actually casting them. Haven't gotten there yet. ;D

I plan on doing some rounded edges, which will help a little. 

-Trout


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## Jeff02 (Jul 28, 2010)

Only hard part left is the crank. Both my oxy and acetylene tanks are empty and I have been wonting a SIEVERT torch for a while so that I can also do boiler work, looks like a good time to acquire one. Then I can silver solider my crank and finish the engine.


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## Jeff02 (Jul 30, 2010)

Ill post another picture after its cleaned up


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## larry1 (Jul 30, 2010)

Jeff,  Looking good, keep up the good work, and pictures. larry


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## Jeff02 (Jul 30, 2010)

And After.
Should have it finished by this weekend and then some BLING!


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## Troutsqueezer (Jul 30, 2010)

Hey Jeff,

Ya done good. Mighty fine looking crankshaft there! And the rest of it too. Thm:

-Trout


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## Jeff02 (Jul 31, 2010)

Thanks for ALL the kind words!
Trying to get caught up so when my Steam Hammer gets in I can get started on it.


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## SAM in LA (Aug 10, 2010)

For a cast metal look, how about sand blasting with a course grit followed by finer grit to tone it down a bit.

Just my $0.02 worth.

SAM

BTW, I like how your engine is turning out. It looks very nice.


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