# My shop



## Bernd (Jan 14, 2008)

Well here's the beginings of my shop. This how it looked shortly after I built it. It's been over 3 years now. Nothing much has changed except it has accumulated a few more shelfs and much "junk". Here is the link to  My Shop for your viewing pleasure.

I'm hoping that as I get nearer to finishing the house I'll be able to finally build those custom cabinets I talked about. Unfortunatley the wife wants her custom cabinets finished for the kitchen first.  Imagine that, her cabinets before mine. :'( Oh well, I can't complain, she put's up with my hobbies.

Bernd


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## 1Kenny (Jan 14, 2008)

Thanks for showing your shop, Bernd.

It looks like a warm place to work in the winter. I did notice that you have to stand at your computer as not to disturb the cat.

Kenny


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## Brass_Machine (Jan 14, 2008)

Looks nice Bernd.

Any woman who puts up with our hobbies is a saint and deserves those cabinets. Cause while it may be a warm place to work, warm food and a warm bed are just as important.

Eric


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## Bernd (Jan 15, 2008)

Ken,

It realy isn't that warm. We have a wood stove in the great room that does a nice job keeping the upstairs warm. That means the furnace dosen't run and the basement stays quit cool. I've noticed that when the temps outside drop to the teens or single numbers the thermometer hovers around 55 degress. Going to install a space heater to keep it warmer.

The cat lets me sit down now. She found out it was more fun to sit on the keyboard infront of the screen to anoy me. So she gets her 30 seconds of attention and then it's off she goes. ;D

Hey Brass,

As far as the cabinets go I usally will build mine right along with hers. She can't tell the difference.  

Bernd


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## bretk (Apr 27, 2008)

Here are a couple of photos of my shop after one of my few cleaning sprees. in the foreground of one of the pics is a Cretors popcorn engine I am restoring. I have a 1934 South Bend Model 405 Lathe, and a Micro Mark Mini Mill with DRO (DRO was best investment I ever made (ebay purchase)) and power feed. A belt sander, and a grizzly porta band with bench stand attachment. 

Ok, I am new to this, how do you insert pictures all i get is this img thing?

Regards, Bret


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## Divided He ad (Apr 27, 2008)

Hello Bret, Here is the link to a bit of help I got when I didn't know what to do.... Scroll down to the post by the very helpfull Bogstandard (He's a good man ;D ) That should help you with everything  

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=93.0




Ralph.


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## bretk (Apr 27, 2008)

Thanks!

Here Goes!


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## bretk (Apr 27, 2008)

Try That Again!






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and






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## bretk (Apr 27, 2008)

third time is hopefully a charm....


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## Divided He ad (Apr 27, 2008)

WooHoo !! ;D 

Now thats not only very clean but it's also.. Massive!! Are you sure that's not your kitchen? ???



nice shop Bret  

P.S. Remember to use the preview button before you post, that will show you what you are about to post... will help you get it right most of the time ;D



Ralph.


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## rake60 (Apr 27, 2008)

Now that's going to cause some real _shop envy_ Bret. 

That is my DREAM SHOP!

Rick


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## zeusrekning (Apr 27, 2008)

Bret, what size is your shop? The white walls make everything seem much brighter. I'm in the process of painting my pegboard walls white and it has made a huge difference. Very impressive. 
Tim


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## hitandmissman (Apr 27, 2008)

Nice shop. That mill and mine could pass for twins. Hope you have better luck with the dro than I. The cables keep coming loose on mine and emails to the company I bought from went unanswered. Again nice shop.


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## Bernd (Apr 27, 2008)

Ok, so were do you move the machines to when you use them. Way to clean. :big: :big:

Very nice shop and now I have "shop envy". ;D

Bernd


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## chiliviking (Apr 27, 2008)

That shop is way too clean. Makes me feel like a pig in my shop.


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## bretk (Apr 27, 2008)

The shop is 13' by 13' with the center table being 4' by 6'. As far as the DRO cables I siliconed them in place and so far that has held up fine, the only problem came when I accidently cut one while I was cable tying them to make it neater (joke was on me that time)  : I have to keep the floor pretty well swept up as my shop mate is my golden retriver and her fur manages to drag swarf all over the house otherwise and that irritates the spouse.  

-Bret


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## cfellows (Apr 27, 2008)

Nice shop, Bret. Is that a spare room in your house?

Chuck


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## raym 11 (Apr 27, 2008)

That is one nice shop!

I notice some swarf under that neat lathe, is that a mistake Or was it done with a photo editing program? ;D ;D ;D

Ray


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## Brass_Machine (Apr 28, 2008)

Hey Bret!

Nice shop! Tell me about the powerfeed you have on your mill.

Eric


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## Cedge (Apr 28, 2008)

Holy Moly!!... I kept searching for where the surgical staff was hiding in the photos...LOL I only wish I was half as organized as that. Right now mine looks like a grenade went off in the place. I'll cop to a case of shop envy as well.

I had a bit of a problem with the DRO cables too. The contact pins would flatten out and begin making intermittent contact. I fixed that by placing a small piece of the wooden shaft from a cotton swab under the pins. Once the silicon sealer dried, the cables stayed plugged in and behaved nicely. Now if I could only get those annoying scale freeze ups to stop happening at inconvenient moments.

The power feed is offered by LMS and it's quite a nice addition to the mini mill. I also adapted one to drive the lead screw on my mini lathe. The feedback circuit it uses is as handy as the dickens. It allowed me to use a carriage stop while operating with the power feed. When it encountered a certain level of resistance, it simply shut of the feed motor. It was gentle enough that it created no machine problems in doing things that way. 

Steve


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## bretk (Apr 28, 2008)

Eric,

 I would agree on the power feed, it was a great addition to the mini mill. The feedback is nice and it does stop if you try a too fast feed rate or run to the end of the travel. 

 Thanks for the tip on the pins for the dro with the q-tip, I'll keep that in my back pocket if they start to give me fits. 

 My shop REALLY isn't always THAT clean......... :

-Regards, Bret


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## spuddevans (Oct 19, 2008)

Well, after having my mill and lathe in my living room in their packing crates for about 3 months while waiting to clear and prepare my workshop, I've finally got them in there!!!

I had to build two benches, one for the mini-lathe and mini-mill, and the other for general assembly / disassembly / other non-mill/lathe functions. My workshop is about 5ft wide and about 10ft long and also houses our central heating oil-burner which also keeps the workshop warm and dry.

So without further ado, here are some pics of my little shop.

1st up is a view from the door.







This is the bench with the lathe and mill mounted. ( please note the exceptional cleanness and tidyness :big: )





Here is the other bench





My Sieg C2a ( I think the "A" stands for "Eh!! I thought it looked bigger in the catalogue!!" )





My X2 mini-mill





Close up of my very 1st metalworking attempt, a spare chuck key.





And finally (thank goodness I hear you say!!) my 1st real attempt at milling a chunk of metal to a specific size, a Tee nut for my Rotory Table. ( yea, I know I've got to make 3 more ) along with an unsucessful attempt.






So there we go, my first try into metalwork. I have to say that I have always found model engineering to be fascinating and have wanted for a long tome to get into it, and now I have, Woo Hoo!!!!

I have to agree with others who have commented that these machines ( the C2a and the X2 ) are great for the money, but that they are more of a kit than a finished machine from the perspective that they need some care and attention in setting up to get the best out of them. As a complete newbee at this I'm open and asking for all the tips and help you guys can offer as at the moment I can't part off anything denser than chocolate on the lathe!!!

The mill I find a little easier to get better results with, I've spent time Tramming it and adjusting the jibs for solidity yet with reasonably free movement. I think that I need to build some sort of a jig to eject whatever is in the MT3 taper as I really dont like whaling on the loosened drawbar with a mallet to get the chuck / collet loose. I'm thinking of something along the lines of a G-clamp that can apply pressure to the top of the drawbar, What do you guys do about releasing MT3's from your X2 ( or X2 type) mills?

My goal at the moment is to make a few jigs / tools for the lathe and mill, and then I'd like to make a wobbler or something similarly simple. I've learnt so much from lurking on here for so long, and I know that I'll learn so much more from all the collective experience of you guys.


Tim


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## rake60 (Oct 19, 2008)

Looking Good Tim!

Rick


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## CrewCab (Oct 19, 2008)

and I'm very envious of the built in heating system 8) ............. now go have fun 

CC


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 19, 2008)

> My workshop is about 5ft wide and about 10ft long and also houses our central heating oil-burner which also keeps the workshop warm and dry.


Looks like a nice cozy little shop with lots of head room. 



> Close up of my very 1st metalworking attempt, a spare chuck key.


Nice work even with a spare you will likely spend more time than you are willing to admit to looking for one.!!! LOL



> What do you guys do about releasing MT3's from your X2 ( or X2 type) mills?


A small mallet. Remember you do not need exesive force to tighten a draw bar. 


> at the moment I can't part off anything denser than chocolate on the lathe!!


remember the basics with parting 
1) sharp tool of propper clearance 
2) tool square to work 
3)Use a little cutting fluid
4) try inverting the tool and running the spindle in reverse

The biggest problem I have with the mill is the unreliable z axis feed this is easily overcome with a dial indicator on a magnetic holder. Just unlocking and re-locking the z axis clamp may give a 2-3 thousands down feed. 
Congrats on getting the shop up and running 
Tin


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## jack404 (Oct 19, 2008)

G'day Tim, we have the same gadgets 'cept mine are greenish

seems we have the same ammount of space too

yes they take some fiddlin to get set up correctly but once done they are great little machines

i wish you lots of time on them and lots of results to show here

cheers and enjoy!

jack


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## spuddevans (Oct 19, 2008)

Tin Falcon  said:
			
		

> A small mallet. Remember you do not need exesive force to tighten a draw bar.


Ah, I think that may be my problem, my fear of a 4 flute mill chasing me has made me perhaps tighten the drawbar up too much.



> remember the basics with parting
> 1) sharp tool of propper clearance
> 2) tool square to work
> 3)Use a little cutting fluid
> 4) try inverting the tool and running the spindle in reverse


I will try those hints, thank you very much.


> The biggest problem I have with the mill is the unreliable z axis feed this is easily overcome with a dial indicator on a magnetic holder. Just unlocking and re-locking the z axis clamp may give a 2-3 thousands down feed.
> Congrats on getting the shop up and running
> Tin



Its very true about the z axis on these mills, you turn almost 180 degrees on the fine downfeed before anything can happen!!! I guess that is what you call backlash!!



			
				CrewCab  said:
			
		

> and I'm very envious of the built in heating system 8) ............. now go have fun
> 
> CC





			
				rake60  said:
			
		

> Looking Good Tim!
> 
> Rick





			
				jack404  said:
			
		

> i wish you lots of time on them and lots of results to show here



Thanks for all the comments guys, I think I'm gonna have a real good time reducing larger chunks of metal to somewhat smaller chunks of metal.

Tim


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## malcolmt (Oct 19, 2008)

Hi Tim

Welcome aboard. Looks to me like you have done some kitchen fitting in your time (worktop jig hanging in the background) ;D
You have found and joined the best place to be for us chip makers. As you say the seig machines are a kit of parts ( I have a CO ) but it does give you the basics with which to grow your skills, and here is the best place to share your work and your questions.
Happy metal redesigning.

Kind Regards

Malcolm


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## spuddevans (Oct 20, 2008)

malcolmt  said:
			
		

> Looks to me like you have done some kitchen fitting in your time (worktop jig hanging in the background) ;D



Yea, I fitted out my own kitchen, the jig made it soo easy to get the worktop corners looking pro ( that and having access to a 2.5Hp router!! ).


> You have found and joined the best place to be for us chip makers. As you say the seig machines are a kit of parts ( I have a CO ) but it does give you the basics with which to grow your skills, and here is the best place to share your work and your questions.
> Happy metal redesigning



Thanks for the welcome Malcolm

Tim


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## Maryak (Oct 20, 2008)

Spud,

Welcome 

Nice shop 

A little tip for making T Nuts - Take a piece of bar long enough for the number you want.
Form one long tee.
Drill the holes for the bolts ie tapping drill size, ( T nuts are more versatile if the bolt hole is at one end rather than in the centre of the nut).
Tap the bolt holes.
Saw off into individual nuts.

Hope this helps ???

Regards
Bob


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## Twinsquirrel (Oct 20, 2008)

Hey Spud... welcome


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## spuddevans (Oct 20, 2008)

Twinsquirrel  said:
			
		

> Hey Spud... welcome



Thanks mate, this is a really great place, I have learned so much just from reading and tapping into the collective wisdom and experience here for the last few months.

I just lurked for quite a long time as I had not got my shop up and running, but now I'm producing chips / shavings / curls and occasionally a usable part !!

Tim


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## Brass_Machine (Oct 20, 2008)

Nice. I have both of those units (in red tho!)

The X2 is nice for what it is, a few mods make it a ton better. You might want to get the belt drive conversion for it asap.

Eric

BTW: Welcome to the club! Can't wait to see what you do with it.


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## spuddevans (Oct 20, 2008)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> The X2 is nice for what it is, a few mods make it a ton better. You might want to get the belt drive conversion for it asap.



Yea, I really want to do the belt drive mod, because of reading what can happen to the plastic drive gear when making interupted cuts I have avoided buying / making a fly cutter until I make the belt drive mod.

I have the air-spring mod kit already, just got to fit it.

Thanks for the welcome Eric,

Tim


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## Brass_Machine (Oct 20, 2008)

spuddevans  said:
			
		

> Yea, I really want to do the belt drive mod, because of reading what can happen to the plastic drive gear when making interupted cuts I have avoided buying / making a fly cutter until I make the belt drive mod.
> 
> I have the air-spring mod kit already, just got to fit it.
> 
> ...



That's my next mod (in conjunction with CNCing the X2). The C2 lathe is in my opinion severely underated. I actually use mine as a production lathe... and I have the small version (7x10).

Adding a DRO helps a lot for the X2 as well. 

Eric


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## spuddevans (Oct 21, 2008)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Welcome


Thankyou. 


> Nice shop


Thankyou again !!


> A little tip for making T Nuts - Take a piece of bar long enough for the number you want.
> Form one long tee.
> Drill the holes for the bolts ie tapping drill size, ( T nuts are more versatile if the bolt hole is at one end rather than in the centre of the nut).
> Tap the bolt holes.
> ...



Ahh, that would make it a lot easier to do a whole row at once, I'm currently most of the way done on T nut No.2 but I'll try doing the final 2 together.

And thanks for the tip about the bolt hole being more useful at one end, I'll do that also on the last two.

Tim


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## itowbig (Oct 21, 2008)

Brass_Machine  said:
			
		

> Nice. I have both of those units (in red tho!)
> 
> The X2 is nice for what it is, a few mods make it a ton better. You might want to get the belt drive conversion for it asap.
> 
> ...



better yet make your belt drive parts. there are plans somewhere. 
nice shop really like the built in heater.ive the plans somewhere. if you want them ill look.


(edit) ive put the plans pdf in the downloads area. ;D


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## spuddevans (Oct 21, 2008)

itowbig  said:
			
		

> better yet make your belt drive parts. there are plans somewhere.
> nice shop really like the built in heater.ive the plans somewhere. if you want them ill look.
> 
> 
> (edit) ive put the plans pdf in the downloads area. ;D



That is fantastic mate, downloaded and saved for reference. Thank you so much. I had thought about making my own belt drive conversion, especially as the only place that I've found selling a kit is littlemachineshop and I know that I'd get stung by the postage to Northern Ireland and then stung even harder by import taxes.

Can I ask if you use both speeds on your belt-drive-converted-mill? Do you feel that it's essential to have the 2 speeds available?

Just wondering if a single speed belt drive mod be easier for a newbee like me to manufacture?

Again, a big thanks for your belt drive mod plans, very much appreciated.

Tim


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## CrewCab (Oct 21, 2008)

spuddevans  said:
			
		

> Just wondering if a single speed belt drive mod be easier for a newbee like me to manufacture?



The only time mine has been in high speed is to see if it would work ;D ............... seriously though I doubt you would use it for milling but perhaps for drilling, particularly small holes, so if you have a separate drill press then single speed would probably be fine.

CC


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## minerva (Oct 21, 2008)

Hi Tim,
welcome to a very friendly community



> at the moment I can't part off anything denser than chocolate on the lathe!!



Have a look at my recent post headed "confusion" for some thoughts as to a possible way forward
suffice to say at a practical level the method works!

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?action=post;topic=2765.0
regards 

Terry T


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## ksouers (Oct 21, 2008)

Tim,
That looks like a very nice place to work, well lighted and laid out.

I have those same two machines as well. Many people consider these machines to be kits that need to be finished by the owner. I have to concur with that opinion. They are a good starting point, but need some tuning up to reach their full potential. They really are pretty good machines, they just need some help realizing it.

Congratulations on finally getting a place to work.


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## itowbig (Oct 21, 2008)

spuddevans  said:
			
		

> harder by import taxes.
> 
> Can I ask if you use both speeds on your belt-drive-converted-mill? Do you feel that it's essential to have the 2 speeds available?
> 
> ...


 i dunno im still getting mine ready been in a box for a month now i just need to cut the grove on big pulley. i was only making mine a single speed. im kinda new too.
 your welcome & welcome


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## Tin Falcon (Oct 21, 2008)

As far as the two speed vs single speed range pulley mod I have one of the Stirling Steele mods his recombination is Use the high speed rand for engraving and really tiny holes. So unless you need to do realy tiny holes or you plan to CNC the mill in the near future the low range should meet most of ones needs most of the time. 
Tin


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## Philjoe5 (Oct 21, 2008)

Nice shop Tim. I'm with Tin Falcon...if you're not drilling small holes, the high speed range on the mill is seldom needed. I've owned my X2 for 3 years and probably have used the high speed range only a handful of times. I seldom drill holes smaller that 1/8", and rarely use end mills smaller than 1/4", though.

Cheers,
Phil


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