# Canadianhorsepower's build of Rupnow engine



## canadianhorsepower (Jul 23, 2013)

ok here we are this was first called " Luc's build of Rupnow engine"
if you want to see the previous post

these pictures covers separating the caps from the plate machining
the bearing cages and marking the head and the machining of it
enjoy the pictures and if any question please ask

next thing piston ,rod crank and cylinder


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 23, 2013)

here is another series of photos I did some of my taste in rounding of the main cap and counter siking the head
now that these are ok  I'll put them in the tumbler with ceramic for one
to cut the edge, then I'll put them in the other tumbler with peanut shell to
polish them a bit more

I'm still using 2 colors to mark
I'm happy with the accuracy of my DRO set up so far:fan:

enjoy


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 23, 2013)

Looks really good, Luc.


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## jwcnc1911 (Jul 23, 2013)

looks real good Luc, i like the blended lines and curved features!


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 23, 2013)

I spent a few minutes in the shop tonight
before changing mu set up I decide to start 
on the exhaust shaft rod
. Went brass for colour and friction point
machine all to specs tomorrow the bearing pin holder
probably on my Taig lathe
cheers
Luc


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 24, 2013)

Hey found a few minute again to mill the pocket
in my cylinder head. 3/4 end mill offset it to get 1.125 and rotate
on the rotary table. love the finish.
the spark plug hole is not done yet, not sure if I'm going to purchase
a plug or build my own

enjoy


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 24, 2013)

Looks good so far. If you have the time and material, make your plug. It will come in handy some day to know how. If you dont have time, I can give at least 3 places to get plugs right down to #8-40 thread.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 24, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> Looks good so far. If you have the time and material, make your plug. It will come in handy some day to know how. If you dont have time, I can give at least 3 places to get plugs right down to #8-40 thread.


 
Hi Steeve, 
                    I'm pretty happy with the build so far I have coriander,
1/4 octagonal steel rod and 63 thou ss for the electrode. I did one before
and it good. I was questioning myself to build one or use Brian's suggestion
in case we would have tuning issue that we would be on the same page.

I would gladly take the reference for future project

How is the blower doing?


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## stevehuckss396 (Jul 24, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> Hi Steeve,
> I'm pretty happy with the build so far I have coriander,
> 1/4 octagonal steel rod and 63 thou ss for the electrode. I did one before
> and it good. I was questioning myself to build one or use Brian's suggestion
> ...





Blower is good!  Working on the linkage now. I made a few pieces. I have a show this weekend at the Henry Ford Museum so I have been getting ready for that. Ran the engines Monday and both ran real good. Will spend tomorrow cleaning the engines and should be good to go.

Good luck with the plug. I use music wire for my electrodes and brass for the cap and they solder together with a soldering iron. Just make sure you clean the heck out of everything before trying to solder. You could buy the first one and then make the replacements. May help at start up. There are so many thing that can stop you from running on a brand new engine so a purchased plug might eliminate one of them. After it's running well, make a few plugs, pop them in and see how they work.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 24, 2013)

> I have a show this weekend at the Henry Ford Museum so I have been getting ready for that.


 
Chevy in a Ford museum they must have give you a ton of money

sorry gbritnel had to say itRof}Rof}Rof}


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## Path (Jul 25, 2013)

Luc,

Great pictures ... thanks for posting them. 

Looks like you drilled a single hole for the bearings ... not using the bearing lip?

Also I noticed that the base is longer, thinking about doing the same. Did
you do that for a particular reason or just looks better?  I like the idea for added weight and better balance.

Thanks for sharing,

Pat H


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## Canman (Jul 25, 2013)

Looking great pal. Parts look fantastic. Coming along nicely.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 25, 2013)

Path said:


> Looks like you drilled a single hole for the bearings ... not using the bearing lip?
> 
> Also I noticed that the base is longer, thinking about doing the same. Did
> you do that for a particular reason or just looks better?


 
thanks for the comments

I'm using the lip, the picture shows the finish after I ran the end mill.
after I bolted the plate back together but backward and use the boring head for the final path on one picture on the blu side you can't see the outer race of the bearing
As for the plate beeing longer, yes and it's because of rounding of the corner, I'm going to use a concave round mill and do the outside quith it
and the plate is going to be bolted with bolt from underneath


cheers


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 26, 2013)

hi again a bit more time in the machine shop today
here are some picture of all the steps for the piston
and the next step
thanks Brian for the cast, Ill take a few hours before starting the rod 
the place need cleaning up a bit
and*beer**beer**beer*
enjoy


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## jwcnc1911 (Jul 26, 2013)

That work is looking top notch Luc!  I do enjoy seeing it!

What is that big allen key or hex in the drilling setup for?


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 26, 2013)

jwcnc1911 said:


> That work is looking top notch Luc!  I do enjoy seeing it!
> 
> What is that big allen key or hex in the drilling setup for?


thanks for the comments , because I had "or decided to" change milling 
and wanted to have my wrist pin dead on . I did mill a flat piece of material
to the slot size after I used a angle gauge making sure it was all 90 degree
being a square part it's easier with a square part
oops I forgot I was using a machinist's jack to support the

If I didn't make myself clear I'll be more then happy to supply more pics
cheers to support the work


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## Swifty (Jul 26, 2013)

Moving along nicely Luc, I know what you mean about having to clean up, aluminium sure seems to make a mess, have to clean up regularly and try to avoid tramping chips into the house.

Paul.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 26, 2013)

Luc--I always finish the cylinder first, then make the piston afterwards, to fit the reamed bore. It seems you are approaching this differently, but I am sure you know what you are doing. You seem to be an accomplished machinist. Perhaps I will learn something new here.---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 26, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Moving along nicely Luc, I know what you mean about having to clean up, aluminium sure seems to make a mess, have to clean up regularly and try to avoid tramping chips into the house.
> 
> Paul.


 
few!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:fan:
now I have to give some excuse to mine. I was under the impression
she was the only one freeking out:hDe:
I guess this is what living with a good wife is all aboutwoohoo1

I love her;D;D


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 26, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Luc--I always finish the cylinder first, then make the piston afterwards, to fit the reamed bore. It seems you are approaching this differently, but I am sure you know what you are doing. You seem to be an accomplished machinist. Perhaps I will learn something new here.---Brian


 

 hey Brian all that matter's is how the cylinder and piston match.
I'm really enjoying building your engineThm:


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 26, 2013)

Luc--I have a dirty little secret. I dipped into the Rupnow fortune and bought a complete set of chucking reamers up to 1" diameter five years ago just after I bought my lathe. I didn't trust my ability to bore a cylinder full length with my cheapo carbide boring tools, and not end up with a tapered bore or a badly finished bore. When you use reamers for the cylinder bores as I do, you have to make the piston last. I am glad you are enjoying the build. I am enjoying watching everyone's progress.---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 27, 2013)

[QUOTE  Luc--I have a dirty little secret. I dipped into the Rupnow fortune and bought a complete set of chucking reamers up to 1" diameter [/QUOTE]


Brian --I have a dirty little secret. I dipped into the Gyre fortune and bought a complete set of adjustable reamers up to 1.5" diameter 
this allows me to match the pistonRof}Rof}
let go and make the rod now

cheers


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 27, 2013)

I got in the chop this morning to clean up:hDe:
ya ya ya the hell I did start looking at my next part on the computer
 a conn rod *bang* there we go again, so no clean up but a connecting rodRof}Rof}Rof} my wife is going to be happy she went to states for me again as long  that I clean my shop, dam got to go she'll be back soonThm:
enjoy the pictures


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 27, 2013)

Very nice Luc.


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## Cogsy (Jul 27, 2013)

canadianhorsepower said:


> my wife is going to be happy she went to states for me again


 
I can't get my wife to go to the hardware store for me and yours goes into another country?? Lucky man...

Your parts are looking good and you've inspired me to have a look at making the conrod next Thm:


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 28, 2013)

Lucky,   if she would only go to my store yes. 
But most.... no all the time she stop somewhere else
with MY credit card:fan:. I guest their is a price to pay for the courier
serviceRof}Rof}


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## Path (Jul 28, 2013)

Great pictures.

Thanks for posting them ... coming along nicely .

Pat H.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 29, 2013)

hey some more pics
Hopefully one day I will learn how to put text in between pic. what I'm offering tonight ar the many step to build that bearing support it's small very small....... but that how like it
enjoy the pics


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 29, 2013)

Very nice Luc. I don't like working on things that small. I can do it if I have to, but I would rather work on things that are a bit larger than that bearing support.---Brian


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## Swifty (Jul 29, 2013)

Going well Luc, I'm glad that's about the smallest piece on this engine, I have trouble seeing small parts these days. I have glasses and a lighted magnifier that I seem to have to use more often these days.

Paul.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 30, 2013)

a student of mine told me he could not relate the size to reality so here are pictures that shows it all

cheers


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## Path (Jul 30, 2013)

At first I thought you were going to install that LED on the engine.

Looking good ....


Pat H.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 30, 2013)

Path said:


> At first I thought you were going to install that LED on the engine.
> 
> Looking good ....
> 
> ...


 

you never know, I'm going electronic ignition on this one


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## Path (Jul 30, 2013)

Will you post details in case we want to follow your lead?

That would be awesome ... my 1st engine and it has EI .. neat!

Pat H.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 30, 2013)

Luc---I have never used an electronic ignition before, but this time around I decided I would try an electronic ignition after I got the engine running okay on the old style ignition points and coil, just to see if I could detect a difference. I have ordered a complete "kit" from S&S Engineering. Electronics  are not my strong point, so if I get hung up I will come to you yelling for help.----Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 30, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Luc---I have never used an electronic ignition before, but this time around I decided I would try an electronic ignition after I got the engine running okay on the old style ignition points and coil, just to see if I could detect a difference. I have ordered a complete "kit" from S&S Engineering. Electronics  are not my strong point, so if I get hung up I will come to you yelling for help.----Brian


 
with kit did you order ??
I went  to get quote price for the gearth_wtf1 48.00 a pieces Ill make my own you should have something in the mail by this Wednesday

.cheers


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 30, 2013)

Path said:


> Will you post details in case we want to follow your lead?
> 
> That would be awesome ... my 1st engine and it has EI .. neat!
> 
> Pat H.


 
sure will do that was suppose to be my first build with a Webster design
but I decide to jump in with Brian.. no regret


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 30, 2013)

Luc--I ordered my gears from McMaster Carr. Although McMaster Carr will not ship to new Canadian Customers, they will still ship to anyone who has an existing account. A friend of mine who has his own engineering/fabrication company ordered them for me, and I only paid something like $23 each for the gears plus shipping and tax. The kit I ordered from S&S was about $105 but it included every possible thing I will need, even including the batteries, a battery charger, coil wire, magnet, instructions, and partially preassembled.


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 30, 2013)

Holly mac you didn't go the cheap way
their 45.00 kit would have been enough


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## jwcnc1911 (Jul 30, 2013)

Luc - I love the method in post #28.  An old timer showed me that over a decade ago when I was fesh out of trade school.  Been using it ever since.  Very effective too!

Nicely done Luc!  My compliments!


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 31, 2013)

jwcnc1911 said:


> Luc - I love the method in post #28.  An old timer showed me that over a decade ago when I was fesh out of trade school.  Been using it ever since.  Very effective too!
> 
> Nicely done Luc!  My compliments!


 
Thanks for the kind words, keep motivation to the top


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## canadianhorsepower (Jul 31, 2013)

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR I feel like  a tigerth_wtf1th_wtf1th_wtf1

doing all kind of measurement with my new DRO on my lathe
sometime .0001 on sometime .250 off :hDe: so I decided to investigate tonight. and MAN a broken glass scale. call the company  because I cant explain why it's broken, GET A NEW ONE.:fan::fan::fan::fan::fan::fan::fan:
and pay for it IT"S NEW

I'm running out of fan and they are not pointing at the good place


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## Swifty (Aug 1, 2013)

Luc, that sucks, put you a bit behind in your work.

Paul.


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 1, 2013)

Very unfortunate Luc. Those are not cheap.---Brian


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## jwcnc1911 (Aug 1, 2013)

Are they going to replace it?  Don't forget to check eBay if you have to buy out of pocke!


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 1, 2013)

jwcnc1911 said:


> Are they going to replace it?


 
of course not  their mantality I cant prove them that it was broke 
or deffect when I got it. I'm going to replace it with a magnet scale instead.

What i worry about the most I still have 5 more of these installed on other equipement. The good side is that only thisone was giving me a hard time:wall:


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 2, 2013)

Hey guys, here are a few more picks of this project. I got the cast
Thanks to Brian, the Viton ring, the gear and some shop time. As you will see in the pics and the one coming I started with the cast in the lathe
and it stays there for the complete machining.

After machining the cylinder itself I was under the impression I was GOD'S brother:hDe:, or just as good. In the bible he's multiplying bread, whine and fish. Well I did the same thing today I started with a 6 pound piece of cast, and manage to get 20 pounds of chip from it and still have my cylinderRof}Rof}Rof}
enjoy the pics
I'll set up the boring bar tomorow


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## Swifty (Aug 3, 2013)

Going well Luc, I hate working with cast iron. The dust gets into your skin, up your nose and anywhere else it likes. I'm pushing ahead with a steel cylinder with an aluminium finned sleeve.

Paul.


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 3, 2013)

Looks really great Luc. How come you bought two sets of bevel gears?---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 3, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Looks really great Luc. How come you bought two sets of bevel gears?---Brian


 
Brian, 
those gears came from GBS and they sold them to me at 24.?? each
including shipping. I think it was a good idea to have some sitting around
I know that one day I'll use them even if it paper weightoh:


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## Path (Aug 3, 2013)

Luc ..

Moving right along I see ... nice stuff.
Sorry to hear about the scale.
Getting it fixed soon?

Keep up the great work and thanks for posting 

Pat H.


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 3, 2013)

Path said:


> Luc ..
> 
> Moving right along I see ... nice stuff.
> Sorry to hear about the scale.
> ...


 
Thanks Pat,
 yes the scale is on its way

cheers


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 4, 2013)

here we go on the last update, cast cylinder is all done many pics but worth it
Sure missing my DRO. tomorrow a honey do list


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 4, 2013)

That's a beauty Luc. Congratulations!!!---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 4, 2013)

I forgot to add some pics yesterday:wall:
here they are


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 4, 2013)

Luc--Great pictures. Please tell me more about your adjustable reamers. How much is the adjustment range on each reamer, and what does one look like.---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 5, 2013)

hey Brian--
in the first picture is the complete set I was talking about
in picture 2 is the reamer I used, as you can see they are still in plastic bag
I don't use them often so when I'm done they get a shower of lubricant
in picture 3 is the reamer and the dial-bore gage I always use them together picture number 7 is the small pre-set length gage that goes on the end of the bore gage as you can see they are very precise . In pic number 6 you have a close up view of the adjustment for the reamer. The way it's done is by tightening these nuts (one on each end)  is move the blade up or down to
what ever you want size about +/- .125 . now the procedure that I do is this
I use the insert size bigger then what I need let's say .880  set my dial to 0.00 then when I insert the end in the cylinder I can read let's say-.30 this is telling me I have a bore of.850 and in this case I wanted to have  .875 so I ream till I get -5 on my gauge
last picture is the reamer inside the cylinder itself when I'm done I run to the frids and get *beer**beer* it's a long process but well worth it. a complete kit is fairly cheap 120.00 or so  

enjoy


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 5, 2013)

Thank you Luc--I had not seen those tools before.---Brian


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## starnovice (Aug 5, 2013)

So now I have to ask, how does a dial bore gauge work?

Pat W


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 5, 2013)

starnovice said:


> So now I have to ask, how does a dial bore gauge work?
> 
> Pat W


 
Pat-- it a fulcrum at the bottom that pushes up on the dial gauge.
because of the throw you have to put pins to compensate for the 
diameter of your hole. instead of using snap gage and a micro meter
you can use this


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## starnovice (Aug 5, 2013)

Thanks Luc, I understand.  I always used telescoping gauges and have not run across a bore gauge.

Pat W


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 5, 2013)

no problem how are you enjoying those build of Rupnow Engine


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 6, 2013)

I will take a few days off on this build:wall:

I just receive a panic call of someone that needs 4 PLC
yesterday, like they say money talk


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 7, 2013)

Luc--This is just a drop in to say Hi and offer up a word of encouragement. I am currently "breaking new ground" with my CDI ignition that I have purchased. ( I don't believe that my engine requires a CDI to run it, but I have always wanted to try one.) Cheers mate, keep up the good work. I will probably repeat this message to all the others who are building the Rupnow engine.---Brian


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## Swifty (Aug 15, 2013)

Hi Luc, just wondering when you are going to be free to resume work on your engine. I enjoyed reading your posts.

Paul.


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 16, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Luc, just wondering when you are going to be free to resume work on your engine. I enjoyed reading your posts.
> 
> Paul.


I should finish the 4th PLC today, some clean up:fan: and 
Monday   should be back at itwoohoo1

I pet it everyday when I go by it. It's a love affairRof}

your doing excellent job on yours also
Look greatThm:Thm:


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## Swifty (Aug 16, 2013)

Looking forward to you getting back to it Luc, keep on posting those pictures. Are you planning to use points and a coil or CDI?

Paul.


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 16, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Looking forward to you getting back to it Luc, keep on posting those pictures. Are you planning to use points and a coil or CDI?
> 
> Paul.


 
Hi Paul--- I'll be using "jgedde circuit" http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/new-ignition-circuit-20415/index10.html#post229024

with a home build coil, and Brian's first set up on the valve lever


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 19, 2013)

Hey it's starting Rupnow's  motor again
just finish installing my new glass scale on my lathe:fan:
change the set up a bit end result 1 thou off on five inch
good enough for me. Now lets start the central vac and clean up:wall:


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 19, 2013)

Welcome back Luc!!!--Brian


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 23, 2013)

Luc--Any more progress shots?? How did the ball turner work out?--Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 23, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Luc--Any more progress shots?? How did the ball turner work out?--Brian


 
It's coming almost all done with the crank.
I started some mods to the ball turner to fit my lathe
Should be posting many pictures by Monday

cheers


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 26, 2013)

Well Luc--Its Monday night, and we all have our fingers crossed for Swifty in Australia. He has had his Rupnow engine running in brief spurts, but is having issues with the crankshaft slipping a bit in the flywheel. He is taking it into his shop as we speak to pin the joint he thinks is slipping, but he may have the second running Rupnow engine in the world.--I'm looking forward to your pictures.---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 26, 2013)

Hey Brian don't worry uou will have mine running also soon
but at this time I cant tell anyone
hey take your 70.00 to 100.00 /hour rate and stick it up your but
sorry for the delay but it will be completed


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 27, 2013)

Luc--Why are you being so rude to me? What's with the "$70 to $100 per hour and stick it up your but"?? I am simply asking about your progress because I am interested.--You were given the engine plans free. I sent you the ball turner free.---And now you are rude and insulting to me?? This is not the way grown men deal with each other.-Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 27, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Luc--Why are you being so rude to me? What's with the "$70 to $100 per hour and stick it up your but"?? I am simply asking about your progress because I am interested.--You were given the engine plans free. I sent you the ball turner free.---And now you are rude and insulting to me?? This is not the way grown men deal with each other.-Brian


 
Brian sorry for the wrong interpretation  here:hDe:

that wasn't direct to you at all. what I meant to say is that I can't 
tell my customer that pays me that money that I wont take it cause I have a hobby. Beside teaching I do a lot of contract for school and it never change
when its the beginning or the end of a semester they find some money and then they want everything done the same day or for the beginning of the next semester:wall::wall:

I'm anxious to see mine working also
cheers

Luc


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 27, 2013)

Alright. I wondered what I had done to get a response like that. I was confused.---Brian


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## ozzie46 (Aug 27, 2013)

Brian, one reason Luc is behind on his build (that he isn;t mentioning) is that he graciously spent about a week trying to help me trouble shoot a ignition circuit board I built.  So I'm sure that put him behind too.

  Luc, just to let you know I built a new board and put test lite between E2 and E4 and waved magnet at the hall sensor and it flashes the test lite off and on. So I think  I have a working circuit.  Thanks again for your help.

  Ron


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 27, 2013)

Ozzie--I didn't mean to imply that Luc was behind. As I have said before, this isn't a race. Luc is doing good work, and I'm interested in his progress, that's all.---Brian


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## ozzie46 (Aug 27, 2013)

I didn't mean that either. Poor choice of words on my part. I just meant that if he hadn't been helping me he could have been working on his engine.

 Ron


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## canadianhorsepower (Aug 27, 2013)

ozzie46 said:


> I didn't mean that either. Poor choice of words on my part. I just meant that if he hadn't been helping me he could have been working on his engine.
> 
> Ron


 
Ozzie46------ don't take the blame for this(maybe a little Rof}Rof})
I'm really over book with work and "Johnny" is my boss
"CASH" is his family name 

Nice to hear that your circuit is workingThm:
I'm currently assembling a circuit on a bread board to give a physical
view of the circuit and will be posting it on the new ignition forum
It was fun chatting with you


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 14, 2013)

Luc--You are going to have so much money from all that extra work you are doing, you will soon be able to start the "Bank of Quebec"!!!--Hope to see you back on the project soon, we miss your posts.---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Sep 23, 2013)

here we go :fan: manage to do a lot of work on the crank

wanted to post pictures the battery goes dead I only have two

the rest will come


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## Path (Sep 23, 2013)

Great pictures ... looking forward to the rest.


Pat H


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 23, 2013)

Luc--Glad to see that progress is being made.--Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Sep 23, 2013)

hey new battery new post
mostly a better finish 

enjoy


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## AussieJimG (Sep 24, 2013)

Can't complain about the finish on that!

Jim


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 26, 2013)

Luc--The only way I get a finish like that is with lots of emery cloth.--Don't tell anybody!!! I'm to busy doing "real" work to play with little engines right now, but you are doing great!!!---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Sep 26, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Luc--The only way I get a finish like that is with lots of emery cloth.--Don't tell anybody!!! I'm to busy doing "real" work to play with little engines right now, but you are doing great!!!---Brian


 

Hey Brian----------------- ther is more in it then emery cloth:fan:
but HEY it's Canadian build why not make it nice

cheers

Luc


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## Gurus (Sep 28, 2013)

I'll be watching your progress.


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## canadianhorsepower (Sep 30, 2013)

Ok I'll start from scratch
here are more picture from the crank been fighting with the middle section to realize
that the crank and the middle part are not uing the same 0

tomorrow picking up my new Tig  but back to it after
enjoy the pictures
cheers

Luc


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## Cogsy (Sep 30, 2013)

Looking good Luc. The finish sure is nice.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 4, 2013)

Luc--Did you get your lathe fixed? My BusyBee 2227L lathe has given me great service, but it must be smaller than yours, as its only 110 volt. About 2 weeks after I bought it 5 years ago the starter switch burned out, but they sent me a new one when I called and that's the only trouble I've had, electrically.----Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Oct 5, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Luc--Did you get your lathe fixed? My BusyBee 2227L lathe has given me great service, but it must be smaller than yours, as its only 110 volt. About 2 weeks after I bought it 5 years ago the starter switch burned out, but they sent me a new one when I called and that's the only trouble I've had, electrically.----Brian


 
Hi Brian   
they receive my new motor yesterday, they called me to go and pick it up
and I ask them to check it before cause I was going to have a "fit"
they called me back 1 hr later saying " don't worry Luc we wired it checked
it and everything is fine";D
 Drove down there and because of so many problem with these motors, I told the technician show me that its fine be fore I leave.
 dam it didn't reverse th_wtf1th_wtf1 is going on here.
took his multimeter and start doing some testing, needless to say I was steaming.:fan: after a few minutes of testing we realize that the wire ID
were not on the proper wire...... the motor was running on the starter cap and circuit all the time. When I got home check my old one and it's wired the same. The wiring diagram plate is wrong.
I should be installing it today after storing my 3 motorcycle for winter
and hope its the end of this story.:wall: I told the store manager if I have one more issue with this lathe I'm just going to bring it back and get another one

cheers

Luc


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 17, 2013)

Luc--Have we lost you?? Haven't heard any machining sounds out of Quebec for a while.---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Oct 17, 2013)

I had to re do the flywheel with the 5 hole in it now it' calls for size 5 bolts 
what the heck will I find this 
or I'm missing an North Ontario slang
can you please tell me what to drill ( 6/32 or 5/34)
thanks

Luc


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 17, 2013)

Luc--When I first started to build model engines (and things) I tried to pick two bolt sizes that matched "over the counter" cold rolled steel shaft.  I used #10-24 fasteners because that is basically a 3/16" shaft with a coarse thread on it, and #5-40 which is a 1/8" shaft with threads on it. I buy my #5 fasteners at Brafasco or Fastenall, and you are correct, a #5 fastener is not that common. However, they are almost a perfect size for much of what I build. A #5-40 bolt has a maximum diameter of 0.125", the head is 0.205" diameter x 0.125" high, and the counterbore should be 0.25" diameter x 0.125" deep.


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## Swifty (Oct 17, 2013)

Give me the metric system any day, although you can get standard and fine pitch in a few sizes. 

Paul.


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## canadianhorsepower (Oct 17, 2013)

None of the hobby shop even Fastenal in Ottawa don't carry it


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## petertha (Oct 17, 2013)

Ive found 5-40 to be a tough size to source in Canukistan & also more limited lengths.  5-40 is not a common hobby shop size for typical RC, its 4-40 & 6-32 & M2.5, M3, M4 etc. are abundant in RC cars & helis etc. There are mail order type places or maybe Spanauer ?sp? out your way (have not used them myself). 

KBC if you want to buy a box of 100 (good stuff USA only, no clones)
http://www.kbctools.com/can/Navigation/NavPDF.cfm?PDFPage=784

Travers has them (including offshore), but I think minimum $ order?
http://www.traverscanada.com/prodli...-40+cap+screw&AttribSel=Brand='BRIGHTON+BEST'

You decide if its worth it, but here are typical tap drill sizes @75% thread:
4-40 #42 0.0935"
5-40 #37 0.1040"
6-32 #33 0.1130"


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 18, 2013)

I have no problem sourcing them thru Fastenal or Brafasco in Barrie. If they don't have them in stock they can generally have them the next day.


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## petertha (Oct 18, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I have no problem sourcing them thru Fastenal or Brafasco in Barrie. If they don't have them in stock they can generally have them the next day.


 
Thanks for the heads up. I didnt even know we had a Fastenal distributer in Calgary till you suggested in. I called them just to check & they had a single box of 1/2" length  ...but did confirm that they could assemble an odd mixture / qty order & have it in within a few days. Good to know for future reference. Thanks for the tip.

OK, back to building engines...


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## gus (Oct 19, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Give me the metric system any day, although you can get standard and fine pitch in a few sizes.
> 
> Paul.



Me too. 
Went to Trade School 1960 and schooled in Imperial Units. 

Day 1. 2004.
Went out to buy 1/4 NF Hex Bolts. Every one at nuts n bolts shop laughed. Singapore went metric 40 years ago. This is how and when I switched
to M2------------M10 Socket head fasteners. No more BSF BSW BA NC NF etc etc.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2013)

I started my apprenticeship in 1965, and everything was British Imperial. I slogged along bravely for 9 years, and in 1974 Canada sort of went Metric. We were totally lost for about 6 months. But---we only "sort of" went metric. None of the machinists rushed out to buy new metric tools nor measuring instruments. Non of the steel mills rushed to change their rolling mills to roll metric shapes nor plate sizes. Only us poor fools in the engineering office had to immediately start working in metric. Two hours after a blueprint was released to the shop, you could walk out to the shop and find some poor machinist setting with a pocket calculator changing all the metric numbers on the drawing back to British Imperial. It was a nightmare, and has never fully resolved itself here. My two best comments on the metric system came from my mother and my uncle. My mother is now 93 years old, and complains bitterly that she hasn't known how hot or cold it was since we went to Celcius from farenheit, she hasn't known how far away anything was or how much anything weighed since we went metric. My Uncle had a somewhat more positive slant on the whole issue. He declaimed that all his life he hade a 4" long XXX and women wouldn't even look at him, but now that he had a 100 mm long XXX they just wouldn't leave him alone!!!


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## gus (Oct 20, 2013)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I started my apprenticeship in 1965, and everything was British Imperial. I slogged along bravely for 9 years, and in 1974 Canada sort of went Metric. We were totally lost for about 6 months. But---we only "sort of" went metric. None of the machinists rushed out to buy new metric tools nor measuring instruments. Non of the steel mills rushed to change their rolling mills to roll metric shapes nor plate sizes. Only us poor fools in the engineering office had to immediately start working in metric. Two hours after a blueprint was released to the shop, you could walk out to the shop and find some poor machinist setting with a pocket calculator changing all the metric numbers on the drawing back to British Imperial. It was a nightmare, and has never fully resolved itself here. My two best comments on the metric system came from my mother and my uncle. My mother is now 93 years old, and complains bitterly that she hasn't known how hot or cold it was since we went to Celcius from farenheit, she hasn't known how far away anything was or how much anything weighed since we went metric. My Uncle had a somewhat more positive slant on the whole issue. He declaimed that all his life he hade a 4" long XXX and women wouldn't even look at him, but now that he had a 100 mm long XXX they just wouldn't leave him alone!!!



Hi Brian,

That was good one.  
Nearly frozed to death in Nanjing,China 1988 all because of C to F and metric system which my Ozzie boss messed up in Fahrenheit.

Body parts.
Body weight -----75,000 grammes.(Am I that heavy)
Height-------------1,650mm.( I must be very tall)

Metric System.
Got so used to metric Mikes and Calipers. Cutting the H&M parts in imperial units was a pain in the side. Taking the last three cuts to print O.D. was a dilemma. Scraped thru with no scraps.


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## canadianhorsepower (Oct 20, 2013)

finaly found a branch that would sell them to me 5:00 for 100 pce
should be in Thuesday


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## canadianhorsepower (Oct 23, 2013)

Well well well:wall: sometime you do thing that makes you realize
your not the brightest bulb in the building 

I got my bolt, fine! do you think I check to make sure I had the proper size tap oh: *NO it would have been to easy*

I have all size of tap even British size tap and all you can think of
but not a 5/40 one

It should be in tomorrow or Friday :fan:


:hDe::hDe::hDe:


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## cfellows (Oct 25, 2013)

I've always wondered why 2-56 and 4-40 are the common threads.  A 3-48 screw is 3/32" diameter and a 5-40 is .125" diameter.  Seems like those would be more commonly used.  Or maybe I just like things too orderly...

Chuck


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## AussieJimG (Oct 25, 2013)

cfellows said:


> I've always wondered why 2-56 and 4-40 are the common threads.  A 3-48 screw is 3/32" diameter and a 5-40 is .125" diameter.  Seems like those would be more commonly used.  Or maybe I just like things too orderly...
> 
> Chuck



Seems like there is a metric person in there just itching to get out.

Jim


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## canadianhorsepower (Nov 17, 2013)

Sorry guys I didn't put a lot of posting lately


I've been having more chemo treatment keeping me away from 
my hobby 
beat the first one" stomach"
planning to do the same with the 2second one 
cheers

Luc


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## metalmad (Nov 17, 2013)

Hi Luc
Just keep plugging away at it Buddy.
Its not a race or contest.
Do a bit when you feel up to it Thm:
Pete


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## wagnmkr (Nov 17, 2013)

I hope all goes well Luc.

Cheers,

Tom


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 17, 2013)

Luc--I wish you well, and hope that you beat this one also.--Brian


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## AussieJimG (Nov 17, 2013)

I am glad to know that you are beating them one at a time. 

Jim


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## stevehuckss396 (Nov 17, 2013)

petertha said:


> KBC if you want to buy a box of 100 (good stuff USA only, no clones)
> http://www.kbctools.com/can/Navigation/NavPDF.cfm?PDFPage=784




McMaster Carr has sizes down to 0-80 and size for size cheaper and sometimes about half the price. Shipping has always been reasonable.


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## petertha (Nov 17, 2013)

stevehuckss396 said:


> McMaster Carr has sizes down to 0-80 and size for size cheaper and sometimes about half the price. Shipping has always been reasonable.



 Alas ..sniff.. MMC has not shipped to Canada for a few years now except for institutions & largish firms. Trust me, we have tried every angle. There are alternatives, but count yourself fortunate to have access to MMC living in the USA.


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 3, 2015)

after over a year of fighting a second cancer:fan: and kick his ass again :wall: Ive been mostly comenting and advising
for the last 13 months. I did some major equipement update and changes and not doing much else. My part time job as a proff was keeping me busy.
 This semester I decide to slow down even more on work 1 day a week is plenty after all I'm 54 so have to slow down a bit LOL. My wife have been
poking me about going back to my shop and do something. Well it all happen today went back in there, it's clean as a new dipper LOL nothing has moved in 1 year
beside clean up. With all the respect I have for Brian Rupnow I could not resist to finich that project first. Some parts have corroded but it's a minor set back
(if their is one) so as of tomorrow I'm back at it YEA I'm not giving myself any due dates but I'll be at it here are a few pics of what I'm facing
cheers

Luc


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## tms6401 (Feb 4, 2015)

I'll be watching this one with pleasure. 

Tom


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 4, 2015)

Good on you Luc!!  I'm glad you are feeling well enough to resume work on the project. It is a good running, but very out of balance engine, and wants to walk all over the room while running if it is not bolted down. if I were at the stage of build that you are on right now, I would give serious consideration to some balancing holes through those beautiful flywheels to even out the balance . If you want, I will post a drawing showing the correct location of the lightning holes.---Brian


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 4, 2015)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Good on you Luc!! I'm glad you are feeling well enough to resume work on the project. It is a good running, but very out of balance engine, and wants to walk all over the room while running if it is not bolted down. if I were at the stage of build that you are on right now, I would give serious consideration to some balancing holes through those beautiful flywheels to even out the balance . If you want, I will post a drawing showing the correct location of the lightning holes.---Brian


 
Hi Brian I was thinking the same thing well almost
Ill post a cad drawing latter today

cheers
Luc


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## gus (Feb 13, 2015)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Good on you Luc!!  I'm glad you are feeling well enough to resume work on the project. It is a good running, but very out of balance engine, and wants to walk all over the room while running if it is not bolted down. if I were at the stage of build that you are on right now, I would give serious consideration to some balancing holes through those beautiful flywheels to even out the balance . If you want, I will post a drawing showing the correct location of the lightning holes.---Brian




Hi Brian,

The engine nearly toppled the Makita BandSaw over Gus. Ha ha Ha

Promise . Sometime in the future, we have to do some counterbalancing.


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## canadianhorsepower (Feb 13, 2015)

gus said:


> Hi Brian,
> 
> The engine nearly toppled the Makita BandSaw over Gus. Ha ha Ha
> 
> Promise . Sometime in the future, we have to do some counterbalancing.


 
Hey Gus

I did redesing both flywheel and I wont be using the little adapter to hold the crank together I'll press it instead.

Hopefully Metal Supermarket is going to get the 4inch CRS steel soon:wall:

I'm anxious to start over


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## canadianhorsepower (Mar 18, 2015)

Ok I'm back, finaly got time to work in the shop ( for my hobby)
Brian advise me about the engine unbalance and advise me to do
some change. Well I did. "this is experimenting more then anything"
I did remove the adapter holding the crank together "bolts on"
I did remove some.....some .....SOME...... from one side of the weight.
I did keep the outside ring for momentum when running. I could have build two new flywheel
but just curious of the outcome. They look great"my opinion" and are lighter
enjou these pics. Of course beeing a press fit crank, the con rod big end will be modified also
(page 2) enjoy the pics
cheers
Luc


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