# Gerry`s Beam Engine with wooden frame



## geoff (May 17, 2011)

I would like to show my part finished Beam engine from Gerry`s plans, it`s taken quite a time and i`m pleased to get this far and have something that starts to look like a machine. I decided to make the frame in wood in the hope it would look more authentic, this one needs to be stained and finished a bit darker i think. I was surprised how difficult it was making the 8 links that guide the conrod and how tight the space is for all the fixings, I had to shave everything down a bit so they did`nt clash on the way up and down. I had planned to make the flywheel but when i saw this lovely example from Bengs-modellbau.de for 22. euros i changed my mind. If i was starting again i would certainly make this 25% bigger i`m sure it would be easier. Thanks to other builders who have posted pictures of there Beam Engines as they have bean very helpfull. For fixings i have used BA8 and BA10 which you can easily get in various sizes including small head versions from UK modelmaking suppliers.
Geoff


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## peatoluser (May 17, 2011)

That's a beatiful finished engine Geoff. Particulary like the beam, and I'd agree about staining it a bit darker.
It sure is fiddly working with 10 & 8 BA isn't it? No wonder you want to go bigger!
For a second post how about an introduction

all the best

peter


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## steamin (May 17, 2011)

Geoff, awesome looking engine. I really like it. Your build was very well executed. Be careful with the stain. If it is to dark, it will hid the grain in the wood and/or hid the detail that you have machined in the wood. I like to use semi-gloss spar varnish. I use Scotch-brite in between coats. Then I use Min-wax Paste Wax for a final finish. Experiment with some scrap pieces of wood before you actually tackle the engine wood pieces. Good Luck


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## lazylathe (May 17, 2011)

That is one mighty fine build you are doing Geoff!!!

Post some more pics during the coming stages if you get a chance.

Great work!!!

Andrew


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## TuxMan (May 17, 2011)

Geoff

Having build one of these engines I appreciate the work involved for the small linkages parts. You are doing a great job. Keep up the fantastic work.

Eric


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## steamer (May 17, 2011)

Looks great from here Geoff!


Well Done!

Dave


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## geoff (Jun 1, 2011)

Many Thanks for your encouraging comments, I`ve been working hard to finish before i go on holiday, not quite done but all the parts joined up and it goes round easily enough but i have realised the eccentric is`nt eccentric enough, so i will have to redo it and this time i might add a ball bearing to reduce friction. some of the screws will be changed and wooden cladding added to the cylinder. The tiny screws proved difficult to use as many needed shortening so i had to make devices for holding them and nut spinners to tighten them. Then i have to dismantle it all to final stain the frame and polish the brass and then give it a run.
Geoff


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## seagar (Jun 1, 2011)

Congrats. Geoff,that is beautifull work.My personal taste for the wood finish would be satin clear laquare and wax .This will bring out the natural colour of the wood. 

Ian (seagar)
Coffs Harbour
Australia.


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## geoff (Jun 19, 2011)

Well i finally finished this little gem and it runs well, i decided not to stain the wood in case it went wrong as it would be so hard to undo. i have put a video on youtube [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZrr0H5EGV4[/ame] i hope this works. It was a great project and i useally want to do it again to improve it but i must wait. 
Geoff


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## bearcar1 (Jun 19, 2011)

Wow! Geoff, what a beautiful end result. It runs so smooth and is so majestic huffing away. Your choice of flywheel also adds to the appeal with its spoke pattern being more closely spaced than usual. I agree with others, the application of 'Tung' oil or Danish oil followed up with a good buff will give the wood surface a slightly darker appearance as well as bring out the grain lines. It will also prevent the wood from staining due to being handled. A well done project indeed! BRAVO!


BC1
Jim


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## steamin (Jun 19, 2011)

I second Jim's comments. The natural beauty of wood grain is a gift from God. The engine is truly a little "gem". A job well down for sure and thank you for sharing. I wouldn't mind building one of those myself one day.


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## maverick (Jun 19, 2011)

A wonderful job to be sure. It was a real delight watching the video. Any tips on the joinery of the wood parts?
I'd like to build one this way as the mix of materials is very appealing.

Regards,
Mike


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## Maryak (Jun 19, 2011)

Geoff,

A mighty fine looker and runner. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## geoff (Jun 20, 2011)

Many Thanks guys for your comments, I did finish the wood with Danish oil in case you thought i`d left it bear, when it`s run in i hope to run it slower as it should be. As Mike has asked about the joinery i will try to explain any processes not covered elsewhere any i have staged a few pictures as they show it better than i can explain. I made the main timbers 7mm square so i needed a way to plane these small pieces accurately so i made this jig to guide the handplane. I also needed a angle guide set at 74 degrees for sawing and sanding, and for cutting the mortises at an angle. you can see i machined the tenons on a wide piece of wood and then sliced them up. a router cutter worked best.
If you feel this method to difficult you could glue the parts together and when dry drill a small hole for a wooden pin made from a cocktail stick. 
Hope this helps
Geoff


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## excelfreak (Jul 26, 2013)

Geoff,

very nice engine, congratulations. How did you mount the bearing mounts to the wood? Did you tap the holes in the wood or just drove the bolts in? I'd be afraid of striping those threads. Please advice, or anybody else that has an idea. I'd like to make one like this - it is gorgeous.

excelfreak


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## Swifty (Aug 3, 2013)

I ran into the same problem as Geoff, and I think others have as well, the screw heads on the links clash as there is not enough clearance. If anyone is planning to make this engine, I would advise to make the gap between the frames about 2mm wider, of course you will have to revise the necessary parts to allow for this.

Paul.


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## excelfreak (Aug 4, 2013)

Swifty

I assume you did build this engine. How did you handle the screws in the wood? Did you tap them or did you just drive them in. I am in the process of making this and have not gotten to the part where I attach metal to wood, but the question is lingering in my mind and will come up eventually.

Please advice

excelfreak


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## Swifty (Aug 5, 2013)

Excelfreak, I made my with aluminium sides, but I did think about having wooden sides, so more in keeping with the era.

Paul.


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## Cogsy (Aug 5, 2013)

excelfreak said:


> Swifty
> 
> I assume you did build this engine. How did you handle the screws in the wood? Did you tap them or did you just drive them in. I am in the process of making this and have not gotten to the part where I attach metal to wood, but the question is lingering in my mind and will come up eventually.
> 
> ...


 
When I used to build and fly RC aircraft, we used to screw into the wood with a 'self tapper' type screw, remove it and coat it with light oil, then run a suitable epoxy into the hole and reinsert the oiled screw. Once the epoxy dried the screw would come right out (epoxy wouldn't stick to the oil) and we'd have a suitably strong, reinforced thread.

I can't guarantee this method will work for an engine, but it held the wings firmly on even high performance planes.


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## excelfreak (Aug 5, 2013)

Cogsy,

excellent tip - thank you - will try that


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