# Vega 9cc v twin



## Mo deller (Apr 10, 2009)

I started to build this engine when it was published in Model engineer magazine in the 80's. I am now going to try and carry on where I left off. I have to work on a tight budget but have ordered the three gears it needs. I managed to find in my box of aluminium the piece for the timing case so thought I would make a start only to discover the first operation is to drill and ream a 5/32" hole and I dont have a reamer that size. I got a shock when I found prices around £16 for one. I have read about making D shaped reamers but can't decide if it would be more trouble than it was worth. 
Anyway here are the photo's of work so far.

Crankcase






crankshaft






Anyone here built one?

Mo.


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## Maryak (Apr 10, 2009)

Mo,

For reaming, get a hold of a piece of 5/32" HSS or make a 5/32" shaft from drill rod. Grind diagonally across the diameter such that it goes from below centre tapering out to the diameter at say 15 deg. Grind a small lead in on the round section on the end.






Hope this helps ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## Mo deller (Apr 10, 2009)

Thanks Bob,that seems easy enough. How would one use a reamer like that? Is it hand use only?

Peter.


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## Maryak (Apr 10, 2009)

I hold mine in a drill chuck and machine ream.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Speedy (Apr 10, 2009)

hi Mo.
could you please keep us up to date with your build 
looks great so far.


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## gilessim (Apr 11, 2009)

Bob, that looks like a great and easier way to grind a D-bit than the parallel ,stepped type,I've never seen one like that, I always find it a little tricky trying to grind them to just a few thou over the radius, looks like it would work better too!

Mo, looking good so far!

Giles


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## Metal Mickey (Apr 13, 2009)

I do not have any link to them, other than a customer in the past, but Arc Euro Trade (UK) sell HSS 5/32nd reamers for £2.75p! Their link and order code is below.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/HSS-Reamers/HSS-Imperial-Hand-Reamers-H8/532-HSS-Hand-Reamer-H8

060-040-10125 5/32" HSS Hand Reamer (H8) £2.75 


MM


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## Mo deller (Apr 13, 2009)

Hi MM, had a look and they all seem to be hand reamers. I only know hand reamers have more taper but can they be used in a lathe?
Just to update things I decided to sort out some of my stuff as I couldn't get on with anything and surprise surprise I have found a 5/32 reamer!!! No idea where it came from but I had marked it as a need to get on my original list so perhaps I got one, I just don't remember. 
I will have a go at making one though next time I need a size I don't have.
I have ordered some silver steel,stainless and bronze from Cronos now and my gears have arrived.

Bob, I have also found where the photo of the reamers come from.I have the book 

Mo


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## Mo deller (Apr 15, 2009)

At last I have made a little progress. Turned the timing case to size,then drilled and reamed the hole for the drive shaft and turned the diameter to fit the crankcase.









It was good to make some swarf again,it has been far too long. 

Mo


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## cobra428 (Apr 15, 2009)

Looking Good Mo!,
I'm not famiiar with this engine. Is it gas, glow or steam (comp air)??
TonyR


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## Mo deller (Apr 15, 2009)

Hi Tony,
It's a glow.

Peter.


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## cobra428 (Apr 15, 2009)

I should have known with the drain in the bottom of the case!
TonyR


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## steamer (Apr 15, 2009)

Very Nice job on that crankcase!


Dave


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## kustomkb (Apr 15, 2009)

Fantastic work!

It's going to be a great looking engine.

Keep at it.


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## Mo deller (Apr 19, 2009)

Hello folks,
I started the cylinder heads yesterday but struggled a bit. I managed to break a parting tool :-[ because I tried to go too deep without enough clearance. At least the work survived and I finished with a hacksaw.
I have ended up with two blanks that should be ok but as I said I struggled and kept having to set up and start over trying to get them machined to size and the top fin/groove put in.
I found that I had no way of measuring the length when they are in the chuck like this





Now I think the penny has just dropped as when I came to put the groove in I had to make a ring to push the work out far enough like this 




That is perhaps what I should have planned to do in the first place as it would leave just enough to get the verniers in :
Any comments or constructive criticism welcome 
My heart also sank somewhat when a mistake with the crankcase became apparent. The holes for the conrod/piston should be central in the face but clearly are more to the front. Not sure if this is a big setback as it depends on where the crank lines up. It could be that I had machined too much of the front face as this is wider than shown on the drawing.
I am running out of turning jobs now and need to get the mill sorted asap.

Mo


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## rklopp (Apr 19, 2009)

A groove micrometer is useful for measuring lengths like you showed. Another approach is to stuff an adjustable parallel between the back of the work and face of the chuck, and measure with a depth gage.


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## Mo deller (May 10, 2009)

I have made a little progress this week on the timing case. Boring the rear face for the three gears. Had a few difficulties chasing it round in the four jaw trying to get it centered. Started with the small centre hole and that went ok. I had the depth set on a stop and all other points noted.I then found that I couldn't move it across as the centre of the face in the chuck came up against the edge. Changing the jaws round wouldn't work either because of the depth of things so I ended up machining a support ring which is needed for milling ops next anyway. I was annoyed because I lost all my settings. Anyway it was a good exercise and I got there in the end. 

Boring for the first camshaft gear with the centre already done.









Getting it centered for the next one





All three completed





I did notice a fair amount of vibration while working but couln't work out what I could do about it so pressed on with no ill effects. I know you should use counter weights on a faceplate but not sure of what should be done when offsetting in a four jaw. 

Peter.


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## Mo deller (Aug 25, 2009)

After finishing my oscillating engine I was keen to get some more done on this engine. 
I decided to have a go at the conrods. I am following the build article in M.E. magazine and have drilled and reamed the blanks big and little ends and turned and fitted the bottom end bushes.
Here is the setup for drilling/reaming done with packing as I dont have a verticle slide. 





On the first one I noticed that the big end was off centre. Due to too large a drill too quickly. Another two sizes first and all was well. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




It was at this point I made an extra pair.
Now I have four blanks fitted with bushes that need to be reamed inside. So a question. Can I ream these somehow without having to centre up each one again? 

Peter.


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## Maryak (Aug 25, 2009)

Mo deller  said:
			
		

> Now I have four blanks fitted with bushes that need to be reamed inside. So a question. Can I ream these somehow without having to centre up each one again?



Yes, IMHO you can hold them in a vise with soft jaws and hand ream them. Depending on what reamers and/or tap wrenches you have to hand, you can reverse the process and hold the reamer in the vise and rotate the blanks. Option 2 works better for me if the reamer is horizontal as you are more able to see how square you are keeping it. ( Saves rushing out and buying another reamer)

Hope this helps.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Mo deller (Sep 7, 2009)

Got the reaming done, thanks for your input Bob, and made a jig to hold them and milled to width.





Then onto the rotary table to radius the ends.





These were my first proper milling job and the results were not as accurate as I had hoped. Even though I had them located on fixtures things seemed to wander a bit. I think I will have 2 out of 4 that should be ok but I do feel I could have done better.




Carried on and put the slit for oil in the big end and a c/sunk hole in the little end.





Not sure what bit I will do next but I do need to get better with the mill before I do more to the timing case. I have got som EN8m steel for the cylinders now so maybe I'll get back on the lathe to start those.

ttfn Peter.


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## Mo deller (Oct 11, 2009)

After much procrastination I have started making the cylinders. It was hard to find the courage to make the first cut. I spent about an hour going over the measurements and checking and re checking the positions on the leadscrew wheel. 
Finally decided I had all the numbers written down correctly and got on with it. 
Had to be slow and steady using middle speed with the backgear on my Myford but all went well without mishap. The fins are 45 thou with 55 spaces.











So with the outside finished I started drilling the bore. All going fine until the drill (11/64 I think) bit for some reason and snapped !!! And there was me fretting over the fin cutting. The broken piece came out easily and I started to breathe again. Ready to have another go with a smaller size to try and ease things through found the cylinder had shifted in the chuck. Out with the clock and set up true after almost giving up. Had to use a boring tool earlier than I planned but now have a cylinder bore 2 thou undersize ready to lap. I think I was a bit lucky.
Number two I have drilled through with ¼ before finishing the outside. No problem with that. Now ready to bore out to ¾ inch.





When I bought the model engineer magazines with this article in them I was perhaps a little naïve in thinking all I had to do was follow the instructions. Not having built an engine before I realize now that it was not a good choice for a first project. I do however believe I can finish it and hopefully get it to run. 
I am however suffering from a lack of confidence in posting this stuff. I am well aware that I cannot meet the high standards of some on here who can explain and photograph things very well indeed but I will do my best and hope someone finds it interesting. 

ttfn Peter


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## Metal Mickey (Oct 11, 2009)

Peter i fully understand your comments about confidence but you are too critical on yourself (not a bad thing sometimes...) but your photo's and posts are of real interest to me. Additionally by giving your experiences warts and all, only help others just starting. I always thought (before coming to this particular forum) that 'real' model engineers got it right every time. It was only me that got nervous about cutting or carrying out a new procedure to me, but the reality is that the fear is almost always worse than the experience itself

I shied away from the faceplate for a long time, now I use it quite a bit and enjoy using it. The same with using a rotary table, I could go on. So you are doing a great job for all those who have yet to tread your path. You also get the benefit of those with more experience giving their advice. Every one is a winner so keep going is my advice!

MM


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## ozzie46 (Oct 11, 2009)

Peter,


 I agree with MM, you are doing great. I suffer the same confidence issues as you, but you seem to over come them better. Gives me something to shoot for. Keep at it.

 Ron


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## zeeprogrammer (Oct 11, 2009)

Whew Peter. Very glad it ended well. Great post too. I almost felt I was there feeling the angst and the joy.


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## bearcar1 (Oct 11, 2009)

Thanks Peter for sharing with us your fears and reliefs. You just go right on posting pics (nice by the way) of whatever it is you are doing. I for one certainly do appreciate having a visual reference to help guide my rather 'slow' mind and it also helps to me get ideas from setups etc. that folks are and have been using to good and sometimes not so good results. Carry On!!

BC1
Jim


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## chillybilly (Oct 11, 2009)

Looks the biz to me chief !!!!!!!!!! Every day is a school day .
I did my time in the weapons industry and have seen and made some huge mistakes big money and big stuff .And guess what ,still scrapping stuff now in my shop at home!!!!
Nobody is imune from the engineering gremlins !!!
Good work


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## gmac (Oct 11, 2009)

+1 on MM's comments (and others). I'm new and need to see all the tribulations I'm likely to encounter - and have to correct/cure!! Great work Peter, forge on....

Cheers
Garry


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## Artie (Oct 11, 2009)

Thanks for your candid comments mate, Im a relatively inexperienced machinist with big plans.... confidence is the main issue and Im damned surprised at how stressfull it can be until I take the part off the mill/lathe whatever with a successful finish (unfortunately its not always this way!). Cheers

Rob


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## CrewCab (Oct 12, 2009)

Peter, the lads have said it all really, your doing bloomin well and everyone is enjoying and learning from your progress, me especially  .............. and your photos are pretty good too 8)

Posts including "warts and all" are what we all learn from the most so please carry on Thm: ........and don't have a lack of confidence, your fluted cylinder is a nice piece of work :bow:

CC


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## steamer (Oct 12, 2009)

Artie  said:
			
		

> .... confidence is the main issue and Im damned surprised at how stressfull it can be until I take the part off the mill/lathe whatever with a successful finish (unfortunately its not always this way!). Cheers
> 
> Rob



Rob,

Why should we be the only ones who feel that way!
 ;D

Ya doin fine!, and WE are in good company.....soldier on!

Dave


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## Krown Kustoms (Oct 12, 2009)

Dont lack confidence, that parted cylinder looks great.
I have a few pics that I was unsure of, they dont look as good as your last pic.
-B-


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## Mo deller (Oct 16, 2009)

Thanks for all the kind words. You have spurred me on.
The cylinders have had the flange milled and fixing holes drilled. Today I tapped the crankcase for 6BA studs and fitted the cylinders to see how it looked.








For scale the timbers are about 45mm/1and1/2 inches square.

ttfn
Peter


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## Diy89 (Oct 16, 2009)

Very Nice. Those cylinders are nice! Did you choose that metal specifically or just have it around the shop?


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## Deanofid (Oct 16, 2009)

It really looks good when it starts coming together. 
Keep up the good work!

Dean


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## Mo deller (Oct 17, 2009)

Diy89  said:
			
		

> Very Nice. Those cylinders are nice! Did you choose that metal specifically or just have it around the shop?



Thanks I am pleased with them too. They are EN8m as specified by the designer. I asked around my local engineering shops but nobody was using any so I had to send for some.

Peter


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## arnoldb (Oct 17, 2009)

That's looking very good Peter Thm:

Regards, Arnold


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## Mo deller (Nov 28, 2009)

Had a go at making a lapping tool this week. After reading all I could find and taking into consideration my skills (or lack of) and the materials I had, I decided to try the split method using copper given in LH Spareys book.
After turning the diameter and grooves I drilled halfway with 1/4 to take a piece of steel that is cut to a wedge.
Then cross drilled with 3/16 and joined the holes with a hacksaw cut. This is where things didn't go quite as planned as you can see from the photo the cut ran off centre at the back and wobbled a bit in the middle. After some adjustment to get the wedge to engage in the slot it seems to work ok and I can expand it to the 750 thou I need without much effort.
The photos should explain what's going on.
Here are the two parts with a cylinder for scale.





This is the side that went off centre






I could do with some help now please as I am unsure if the errors will make a difference to how it will work so any comments would be welcome.


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## Maryak (Nov 28, 2009)

Mo,

I don't think the run out of the slot will make any difference or problem with the lap. I had trouble getting the wedge to stay put at the setting I wanted, ( it kept coming loose). From memory I held it in and set it using the tailstock and allowing a drill chuck to rub on the end of the wedge. Have a look at "3cc diesel My First ICE," if you think it will help.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Mo deller (Nov 29, 2009)

Thanks Bob,that didn't come up in my searches and you actually made the same design. Milling the slot though,that's cheating ;D he definitely said you must use a hacksaw. Seriously though that must have been a very small cutter. I did wonder briefly if I could machine the slot but it seemed too difficult for me to attempt.
I am feeling more confident about it now but I think I will bore out a piece of scrap to practice on. I'll also then see if this wedge comes loose. I had to grip it in the vice to get it out but I guess it is the action in it being used that works it free.

My other concern is bell mouthing. My feeling is that I should proceed with the bottom of the cylinder towards the chuck and not take the top past the cutting area of the lap but just up too it.
Or would that be opposite and actually cause more to be taken at the top? ???
Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Peter.


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## arnoldb (Nov 29, 2009)

Hi Peter.
I had a quick look at my Sparey book - I was sure Mr Sparey mentioned somewhere that you could use slight bell-mouthing to your advantage for IC engines. I don't see it in the section on lapping though, but I _think_ it is referenced somewhere in the book (if you are referring to "The Amateur's Lathe") - but the top of the cylinder must be toward the chuck - in effect making for a slightly tighter dimension of your cylinder, and thus higher compression at TDC in the engine.

Not much, I know, but HTH.

Regards, Arnold


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## Maryak (Nov 29, 2009)

Mo deller  said:
			
		

> My other concern is bell mouthing. My feeling is that I should proceed with the bottom of the cylinder towards the chuck and not take the top past the cutting area of the lap but just up too it.
> Or would that be opposite and actually cause more to be taken at the top? ???
> Any thoughts?
> 
> ...



Pete,

Oddly enough the bulge in the lap created by the wedge actually helps to achieve a parallel bore as in micro terms more metal is removed in the centre where the bulge is. A slight taper of 0.0005" is said to help as long as the smaller size is at the top where the contra piston is located. Personally having built 2 of this type of engine a good finish and mate between piston and bore is most important and a tighter fit than you would think for the contra piston are the keys to success. The final mate of piston and cylinder using tallow is also very well worth doing.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Mo deller (Nov 29, 2009)

arnoldb  said:
			
		

> Hi Peter.
> I had a quick look at my Sparey book - I was sure Mr Sparey mentioned somewhere that you could use slight bell-mouthing to your advantage for IC engines. I don't see it in the section on lapping though, but I _think_ it is referenced somewhere in the book (if you are referring to "The Amateur's Lathe") - but the top of the cylinder must be toward the chuck - in effect making for a slightly tighter dimension of your cylinder, and thus higher compression at TDC in the engine.
> 
> Not much, I know, but HTH.
> ...



Hi Arnold,
I remember reading somewhere about the top of a cylinder being the chuck end but I thought that was for the initial boring as it tends to be smaller the further up the bore due to the forces acting on the boring tool. Not sure about lapping though. Yes it is the Amateur lathe book I have. I'll read some again.

Thanks 
Peter.


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## Mo deller (Nov 29, 2009)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Pete,
> 
> Oddly enough the bulge in the lap created by the wedge actually helps to achieve a parallel bore as in micro terms more metal is removed in the centre where the bulge is. A slight taper of 0.0005" is said to help as long as the smaller size is at the top where the contra piston is located. Personally having built 2 of this type of engine a good finish and mate between piston and bore is most important and a tighter fit than you would think for the contra piston are the keys to success. The final mate of piston and cylinder using tallow is also very well worth doing.
> 
> ...



Hi Bob,

No contra piston to worry about,this is a fourstroke glow. Also got piston rings so I don't think I have to lap piston or rings. 
I am worrying about getting the technique right so as not to create the bell effect. That is, should you clear the bulge each stroke or keep it within the length of the cylinder. 
On the other hand if it is the bottom I cant see a few thou will make a difference and the piston rings will not get near the top so does it really matter?
Thanks for your input. 
Peter.


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## steamer (Nov 29, 2009)

Instead of the wedge, you can substitute a set screw that will spread the gap. Put it about mid span of the slot and then when using the lap, keep turning the piece part end for end an the bell mouthing will be minimized....if that is what your after.


Dave


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## Mo deller (Nov 30, 2009)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Instead of the wedge, you can substitute a set screw that will spread the gap. Put it about mid span of the slot and then when using the lap, keep turning the piece part end for end an the bell mouthing will be minimized....if that is what your after.
> 
> 
> Dave



That may well be what I'm after Dave. Not understanding what can cause it I am unable to decide the best method. 
I think the time is approaching to just get on with it 

Thanks
Peter.


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## Maryak (Nov 30, 2009)

Mo deller  said:
			
		

> I am worrying about getting the technique right so as not to create the bell effect. That is, should you clear the bulge each stroke or keep it within the length of the cylinder.



Peter,

Sorry about the mix up regarding engine type.  I would try and keep the bulge within the cylinder most of the time. I suffer from wild imaginings as I stand there bored stupid and lose concentration, hence "most of the time" :

Best Regards
Bob


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## Mo deller (Dec 3, 2009)

Well so far so good.
I used a piece of scrap to experiment with and all seemed to go well. I think it helped to get a feel for the process and to calm my nerves ready for the real thing.
Sorry I havn't got photos yet but I was just in the mood and feeling good about it so carried on with the first cylinder and removed 1 and a 1/2 thou with fine valve lapping paste mixed with a little auto transmition fluid. I had prepared two aluminium bore gauges with 748/749 thou on one and 750/751 on tother. All machining marks are gone and the 749 is a nice fit right through. It was at this point I though about photos but I was just a tad grubby ;D
The wedge stayed put so I guess my wobbly sawcut was perhaps a bit of serendipity.
I will do the other cylinder now before cleaning everything to start with something finer for the last thou. I have solvol autosol and Brasso. Not sure if the solvol is finer than the paste,it feels quite gritty in comparison.

 Should I just use Brasso now or solvol first then Brasso or maybe there is something inbetween?

ttfn
Peter.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 6, 2009)

Oh yes please pics. This lapping process is of great interest.

Fine looking cylinder!


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## Mo deller (Dec 8, 2009)

Well...... I think I have a pair of useable cylinders. After cleaning all the parts I decided to go with the Brasso. Had a little trouble with things starting to snatch. Ended up with more oil in the brasso,probably 50%. This was better but every now and then I would feel things starting to get lumpy. Not sure why. 
I was telling my brother about it this morning and he asked how fast I was running the lathe. It was one of those,why didn't I think of that moments. I was using middle speed I think about 600 on the Myford so slowed it down to 300. This was better again but still every now and then it would tighten.I just took to stopping to wipe it down and refresh things to start again.
For this last lap I did 3/4 hour on one and 1/2 on the other to get them both to take the 750thou gauge.
I have tried to show what they looked like after each process with a close up photo. 
First a cylinder before 





Now lapping set up using the fine grinding paste




Cylinder after first lap




After last lap. 




And finally how it looks to the naked eye





As for trying to get some pinch at the top of the cylinder I found impossible to do with this lap. I just couldn't feel a tight spot while working so didn't know where to stop my movement along the lap. I just kept it moving around the middle.
I think I ended up losing the barrel shape after the first lapping.Must have taken 20 thou off the lap as the grooves started out 40 thou deep (my guess as to what would do as I found no reference about how deep they should be) and were looking about half that.

Maybe that's where a type that expands at the end would prove better. 
I guess I'll have to wait and see if the thing runs before I know if I made a good enough job.

Hope you like the piccies zee 

Peter.


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## mu38&Bg# (Dec 8, 2009)

Doesn't this engine use piston rings? You don't need taper in that case.


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## Mo deller (Dec 8, 2009)

dieselpilot  said:
			
		

> Doesn't this engine use piston rings? You don't need taper in that case.



Yes it does. I understood that although not essential a very slight pinch at the top would be beneficial.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 8, 2009)

Mo deller  said:
			
		

> Hope you like the piccies zee



I do indeed Peter. Thank you very much. The close-ups were also very helpful.


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## Maryak (Dec 8, 2009)

Nice lapping job. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Mo deller (Jan 20, 2010)

I have made some piston rings from cast iron and split them all using a vice and pliers with no problems. This was how the designer did them and it worked for me.















Next I tackled the pistons and as I need two I decided to make four just in case.I spent allot of time thinking things through and asking questions here about the gudgeon pin holes. I had intended to drill the holes first but changed my mind when I saw somewhere else some that were being drilled last and thought that looked better. It would have been if I could have done it in the rotary table but I hadnt checked the height and just could not get enough room. 
Plan B then was to make a fixture to bolt them onto my angle plate. Apart from being more work and taking longer to set up this worked well.
After turning and boring the ring groove was cut. 




Then onto the mill to cut the slot for the con rod.




I used my dti to set the slot level ready to cross drill. A bit fiddly.




Reamed by hand 




That completed the work on the mill.





Back to the lathe then and I made a spider to help hold the pistons and act as a back stop. Something I learned on here. Thanks whoever that was. Cut off the spigot with hacksaw and faced to length.




I now have twice as many pistons as I need.





ttfn
Peter.


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## richcox88 (Jan 20, 2010)

hi peter 

great work 

im 21 and own a ml7 and ive just started making an engine the malcolm stride lynx(ne15s) but stuck now as i have done the lathe work i can do because i now need a mill lol just wondering if you know the magazine numbers the vega is in with plans as i would like to build this at some point.

thanks 
Rich


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## Mo deller (Jan 20, 2010)

richcox88  said:
			
		

> hi peter
> 
> great work
> 
> ...



Hello Rich, thanks for the compliment. I like the ne15. I bought Malcome Strides book recently after seeing the engine. Shame the plans are no longer available.

The Vega was serialised in 1986 over six issues of volume 156 numbers:-
3768 Jan 3-16 
3770 Feb 7-20
3772 Mar 7-20
3774 Apr 4-17
3776 May 2-15
3778 Jun 6-19

Good luck
Peter


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## ariz (Jan 21, 2010)

great work peter on those cylinders, pistons and rings!

you said that there were not problems in splitting the rings in the vice with a plier, but I was been afraid to broke them


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## bananaman (Jan 27, 2010)

Hi Mo 

can you (or anyone) give me sme advice on how to set the timing for this engine, I have built one and this is the last thing to do but i have no info on how 

thanks 

Bananaman


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## NickG (Jan 27, 2010)

Nice work peter. Lapping is something i've never really got to grips with. I tried making a wooden dowel lap with wet & dry paper wrapped around it for my flame licker, it resulted in a good finish but a non round non parallel bore. So I used an adjustable reamer with plenty of oil and that gave me good results and an acceptable finish.

The problem I see with your lap is you have to use it at every point in the bore the same amount, where as the reamer is the same diameter all along. Having said that, it seems to have worked well for you.

Nick


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## Mo deller (Jan 27, 2010)

bananaman  said:
			
		

> Hi Mo
> 
> can you (or anyone) give me sme advice on how to set the timing for this engine, I have built one and this is the last thing to do but i have no info on how
> 
> ...



Welcome to the forum Bananaman,
I would love to hear and see details of you and your Vega. Perhaps you could post something in the welcome section for us.

I have sent you a pm with the details I think you need.

Peter,


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## Mo deller (Jan 27, 2010)

NickG  said:
			
		

> Nice work peter. Lapping is something i've never really got to grips with. I tried making a wooden dowel lap with wet & dry paper wrapped around it for my flame licker, it resulted in a good finish but a non round non parallel bore. So I used an adjustable reamer with plenty of oil and that gave me good results and an acceptable finish.
> 
> The problem I see with your lap is you have to use it at every point in the bore the same amount, where as the reamer is the same diameter all along. Having said that, it seems to have worked well for you.
> 
> Nick



Thanks Nick, I used a wooden dowel and wet and dry on my oscillators bore which is only 1/4 inch and that worked. 
This is my first i/c build so dont know if I have it right yet but having to lap every part of the bore gave me no real problem as the amount removed is so small and it just seemed to work well. I'm hoping anyway.
Couldn't find a fingers crossed smiley.
Peter.


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## NickG (Jan 28, 2010)

Thanks peter, might have to try this method for my next project if I don't have a reamer the right size.

I will keep my fingers crossed too.

Nick


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## Mo deller (Jan 17, 2011)

Hello again folks. I cant believe its been a year since I did any work on this (or anything else). After distractions and lack of motivation I am pleased to say I have made some progress these last couple of weeks.
I had difficulty setting up to machine the flats on the timing case. I was trying to set up on the mill with a rotary table to set the angle but found there just wasnt the height.
Probably could have got it on the mill somehow but thought I would try on the lathe faceplate which is how I did the crankcase











Initially all seemed well until I noticed that the two faces were not at 45degrees. I had positioned the gears and marked the shaft holes as per instructions without thinking that the centres should be along a 45degree line and then used the holes to mount assuming they were at 90 degrees to the face. Luckily there was still enough meat left to reposition and get the angle correct. Hard to explain without showing the drawing but I dont think it will affect anything important.
Had to set up the mill next to machine away the bottom angles, the sides and the little bit at the top for a bolt. Sorry I didnt get any photos of that bit.
Next I had to mark the centre of the holes for the pushrod exit and bore to 3/8 for the guide. I marked as accurately as I could and put in just enough of a mark to get a point in. Set it true on the faceplate with the dial gauge and wiggler rod. Drilled and reamed a 3/16 hole as thats the size of my wiggler rod. Place the rod in the hole and set the dial gauge to zero on the face and noted the reading on the cross slide. Wound the slide in the required amount to make contact with the rod and found I was 8 thou out. Tapped the angle plate across to get the dial gauge reading zero and bored to size






Repeated again with the other face.
No doubt there are easier ways to get this job done but the end result is all that matters and so far would seem to be ok, which is surprising as I dont know what I am doing most of the time.





Peter


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## NickG (Jan 18, 2011)

Nice work Peter, that is a really complex component, nice set up work I don't think I'd have the patience for something like that! My project had also just about been a year before I started it up again a couple of weeks ago so in the same boat!

Nick


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## T70MkIII (Jan 18, 2011)

Great to see you back with this build. Looking good.


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## xpylonracer (Feb 2, 2011)

Hi Peter

Nice work and a good looking engine, i'm in Kings Lynn are you
nearby ?

Rgds, Marcus


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## Mo deller (Feb 3, 2011)

Hello Marcus,

Thanks for the compliments. I'm just on the far side of Norwich. 
I see you're building four joined up ones :bow:

Best wishes
Peter


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## Mo deller (Feb 12, 2011)

Ive been doing a bit more and have the backplate made,the bearings fitted in the crankcase and produced some cams .
Had a major oh no! moment on the crankcase when drilling holes for the two bearing retaining screws. The instruction was to just break through to avoid having to tap a blind hole. I thought I was drilling into a thicker piece than I actually was and not only broke through (which I hadnt intended to do) but I was half in half out of the piece so I have two grooves down the outside. Cosmetic only so not a total disaster but very annoying.
Sorry this work has been sporadic and I didnt think to take photos.

For the cams I followed the method described which was to make a hardened master cam and then use it to produce the two pairs needed. All filed by hand.

First The master is held between two buttons to get the base circle then flanks filed to 45degrees and finally blended in for a 1/16 radius at the top. Now we have photos. This is the master cam before hardening.






The blanks were turned up and then two lines scribed on at 105 degrees apart






One of these is then bolted alongside the master with one line lining up with the top of the master which also has a line on and filed to shape on the one half.






Then just turn it round,line up the other line at 105 degrees and file away again






Then do it all again to get two pairs of cams.






The suggestion is that these are just fixed on the shafts with locktite. I am wondering, as doubts have been expressed about this, if I should perhaps try and put a pin in. 
Any ideas or comments anyone?

Peter.


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## Longboy (Feb 12, 2011)

I made cams with a hub and set screw for my SENTINEL engine. Locktite works but depends on rotating inertia of the lobes striking the valves under spring pressure. Will the bond hold? I don't know the capability's of the VEGA but high RPM motors undoubtedly have higher spring pressures that may kick back a bonded lobe on a shaft. Epoxy a better bond and pins a positive tie to the cam shaft. Sentinel is a low RPM engine and no lobe slipage on the cam shaft with set screws. With fixed cam timing, the pinning wins over bonding and is an easy operation.   Dave.


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## steamer (Feb 13, 2011)

Hi Mo,

Great Work!  Your a "Lathe Centric" guy like me....much rather mount up a faceplate than a mill vice.

Great job!

Dave


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## Drei (Feb 16, 2011)

I have used the loctite for my Lynx engine and it didnt hold, maybe because i used the green loctite. I have heard that to acheive permanent bonds the blue one is better maybe i should have tried it. About the pinning, i did it as well and the cam shaft fails and snapped from the pin hole. At last i machiend the whole cam from one piece and till now its still in one piece 

Drei


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## Mo deller (Feb 17, 2011)

Many thanks for the input fellas. I am thinking that there is room for a set screw/grub screw on the centre of the two cams. That combined with the proper shaftlock I bought hopefully will do the trick.


ttfn
Peter


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## Mo deller (Sep 4, 2011)

Again it has been too long since I made any progress on this engine.
I managed to make the rockers a few weeks ago but have only just got round to uploading the photos.
I milled a length of steel to 1/4x3/16 and drilled and reamed the holes for the shaft before cutting to length.
I decided to hold them for further ops by fitting a guide and pin to one end of a soft jaw in the vice. The rocker is the blued piece with the hole.

http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu218/scruffyoik/Vega/rockersjig.jpg[/img]]
	


Then it was a case of cutting each side of the pivot point before cutting away one end of the support so I could machine the angle to make the pad for the valve end. The photos should explain better that my words














After drilling and tapping the holes for the 8ba adjusters I held them in a small vice to hand file the finished shape






The hole in the centre is a countersunk small oil hole






Just remains to case harden them.


Peter


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## mikegw1961 (Mar 2, 2013)

Mo deller said:


> Again it has been too long since I made any progress on this engine.
> I managed to make the rockers a few weeks ago but have only just got round to uploading the photos.
> I milled a length of steel to 1/4x3/16 and drilled and reamed the holes for the shaft before cutting to length.
> I decided to hold them for further ops by fitting a guide and pin to one end of a soft jaw in the vice. The rocker is the blued piece with the hole.
> ...



Peter

I have just got the Model Engineer issues for this engine and have started to draw it in alibre. There seems to be dimensions missing for the length of the crankcase, do you have a drawing of the crankcase that you used to make the crankcase.

Mike


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## Mo deller (Mar 17, 2013)

mikegw1961 said:


> Peter
> 
> I have just got the Model Engineer issues for this engine and have started to draw it in alibre. There seems to be dimensions missing for the length of the crankcase, do you have a drawing of the crankcase that you used to make the crankcase.
> 
> Mike


 
Hello Mike, sorry I have only just seen this. No drawing I'm afraid and I can't remeber what I did now. I think I probably decided that the length of the bit that is missing didn't matter as long as the crankshaft fitted.
You have probably worked it out by now. I hope it all goes well for you.

Regards
Peter


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## mikegw1961 (Mar 17, 2013)

Peter

Yes I have it all drawn in Alibre now. Going to start it after I have finished the Nemett lynx I am working on.

I am going to make it twice full size.

Thanks

Mike


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