# Kerzel Hit and Miss



## weez (Feb 5, 2014)

I finally got started on my first IC engine, the Kerzel Hit and Miss.  Here is the start of the cylinder body.

First I milled a chunk of aluminum to size.  I used my new boring head as a flycutter and it worked very well.




I drilled out the bore with a 1/2 inch drill, then a 3/4 inch endmill, and finished up with the boring head.



Drilled and tapped the head bolt circle.



I didn't notice that I forgot about the counterbore until I had taken the piece out of the vise.  So I had to reindicate the piece to finish the counterbore.



After flipping it on the side, I milled the pocket for the cam slide bearing.



And finally drilled and tapped the holes on this side.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 5, 2014)

Looks like a fine start. I'll be watching and rooting for you.


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## Herbiev (Feb 6, 2014)

Me too. Great pics.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 6, 2014)

Its a great engine to build. I build the Kerzel a few years ago and had a humungous thread on this forum about the build.---Brian
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/brian-builds-kerzel-hit-miss-i-c-10091/


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## gg89220 (Feb 6, 2014)

bonjour
bon debut ,bonne continuation 
j'ai deja réalisé ce modele 
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/video/moteur-thermique-7.html


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## weez (Feb 7, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Its a great engine to build. I build the Kerzel a few years ago and had a humungous thread on this forum about the build.---Brian
> http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/f31/brian-builds-kerzel-hit-miss-i-c-10091/



Thanks for the link Brian.  Your build thread is where I discovered the Kerzel.  I have already read your excellent build thread and am sure I will reference it again as I go along.


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## weez (Feb 7, 2014)

This is the setup I used for the undercut for the water passage.  I mounted the boring bar upside down and cut on the backside of the bore to make it easier to see.


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## gus (Feb 8, 2014)

Hi Weez,
you are making great progress.th_wav Will be following your thread. 
Kerzel is a good engine to build but I have a long list to dream on. So many engines to build and so little time.


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## weez (Feb 11, 2014)

Here is the machining of the water reservoir.  First I milled out the square portion with a 3/8 inch endmill.



Then machined the round undercut with the boring head.  I had to grind some clearance above the carbide.  (Sorry for the blurry picture).


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## weez (Feb 15, 2014)

Got the rounding done on the cylinder body.  After centering the rotary table on the mill I indicated on the bore and clamped it down using a threaded rod and washers.  I installed some clamps to use as stops for when the part gets flipped over so that I don't have to re-indicate.  Using a 3/4 inch end mill, I machined away the majority of the radius to a depth of .655".



Then finished up with a 3/8 inch ball mill.



I flipped the part over and rested it against the stops and clamped it down.



Using a 3/8 inch ball mill, I milled out the bottom radius to a depth of 3/4 inch.



Then milled the top radius to a depth of 1/8 inch.



And milled away the rest with a 1/2 inch end mill.


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## weez (Feb 16, 2014)

Here is the detail work on the top of the water reservoir.  First using a 3/8 inch ball mill.



Then finishing with an end mill.



And finally the finished cylinder body.  I think this is the most complicated piece that I have made to date.  I am very pleased with how it turned out.  Hopefully it is all downhill from here on this build.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 16, 2014)

Lovely job indeed. I remember thinking at the time that it was the most complex part I had made. Good luck with fitting the cylinder and getting it water tight. I remember that I slathered mine with green Loctite, started out with an arbor press, stuck half way in, and finished with a 4 pound hammer!!---Brian


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## weez (Feb 16, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Lovely job indeed. I remember thinking at the time that it was the most complex part I had made. Good luck with fitting the cylinder and getting it water tight. I remember that I slathered mine with green Loctite, started out with an arbor press, stuck half way in, and finished with a 4 pound hammer!!---Brian



Thanks Brian.  Have you run yours without water?  In the drawing notes David Kerzel states that it doesn't need water and will only get to 120 deg F without.


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 16, 2014)

No, I always run mine with water. David Kerzel is probably right, but I am an old guy and I well remember using hit and miss engines 50 years ago, and we always ran them with water. Of course, they were working engines, driving buzz saws and irrigation pumps, so they probably generated more heat. I can remember running my Kerzel hit and miss out in my main garage in the wintertime on an endurance run, and after an hour of running there was a visible column of steam rising into the cool air from the water reservoir, which I thought was really neat!!!----Brian


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## gus (Feb 16, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Lovely job indeed. I remember thinking at the time that it was the most complex part I had made. Good luck with fitting the cylinder and getting it water tight. I remember that I slathered mine with green Loctite, started out with an arbor press, stuck half way in, and finished with a 4 pound hammer!!---Brian




I share the same sad story with a DIY hydraulic cylinder cap threaded into the cylinder. The lesson is " Check Loctite No'' before use. 

Now Retrofitting the Deep Sea Swivel-Base/inclinable Rod Holder for Feb 22---28 Burma fishing trip. Now prepping my mind to finish up the H&M after Burma.


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## gus (Feb 16, 2014)

Hi Weez,

Water Jacket very well done and finished. For the finishing cut,did you use very sharp end mill?


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## Draw-Tech (Feb 17, 2014)

Hi Weez

Great looking cylinder, I remember going through all those steps, except I bored my cylinder block in the lathe, I added (2)  O-Ring Grooves, and silicone O-Rings, to prevent leaks.

Jack
Draw-Tech


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## weez (Feb 17, 2014)

gus said:


> Hi Weez,
> 
> Water Jacket very well done and finished. For the finishing cut,did you use very sharp end mill?



Thanks Gus.  For the finishing cut I use a standard cheap end mill.  I make my final depth of cut about .005" deep and feed really slow.


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## weez (Feb 17, 2014)

Draw-Tech said:


> Hi Weez
> 
> Great looking cylinder, I remember going through all those steps, except I bored my cylinder block in the lathe, I added (2)  O-Ring Grooves, and silicone O-Rings, to prevent leaks.
> 
> ...



Thanks Jack.  I would have bored mine in the lathe, but my 4" chuck was too small.  I checked out your engine and it looks great.  Did you get it running?


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## weez (Feb 22, 2014)

Now on to the base.  First drilling and counter boring all the bolt holes.



Because of lack of enough Z axis I couldn't use the vise and had to come up with this setup.  I almost made a huge mistake and had it all set up with the bottom of the base facing out.  I noticed it right before starting to cut.  Glad I caught it but still didn't like having to re-indicate everything for a second time.



Then a 3/8" ball mill to finish the piece.



And here is the completed base.


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## Path (Feb 23, 2014)

Nice work ... thanks for sharing.

Looking forward to more great pictures.


Pat H


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## weez (Feb 28, 2014)

The next parts are the two base sides/bearing supports.  After drilling and tapping the holes in the bottom I center drilled where the center of the bore will be.  Then drilled two 1/8" holes tangent to where the angled portion will be.




After mounting in the four jaw chuck I indicated the piece using a pump center in the center drilled hole.



Then turned the boss.



Using two 1/8" drill bits resting on parallels, I clamped the piece at the correct angle in the mill vise.



And milled down until the holes were gone.  Then drilled and tapped the holes for the bearing caps.



Repeated the process to make a mirrored one for the other side.  I will wait to make the bores until the bearing caps are done.


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## weez (Mar 2, 2014)

Next up are the bearing caps.  First center drilled the centers of the two bores and milled the flats on the tops.



Then mounted on the rotary table using a spud in the quill to center on one of the bores.



Rounded the top, flipped the piece and repeated for the other side.



Using a hacksaw, cut the two pieces apart.



Milled the bottoms flat on both pieces.



Then milled flats and drilled clearance holes for the mounting screws.



Here are the finished pieces without the bore.  I will bolt these to the bottom halves and bore them together.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 2, 2014)

Looking very nice. I am following with great interest.---Brian


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## AussieJimG (Mar 3, 2014)

I am learning a lot from your machining sequences.

Jim


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## gus (Mar 5, 2014)

Me too.

Now deciding if I should make another face-plate or just drill on the existing slotted fp. Both are painful decision.


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## weez (Mar 7, 2014)

Thanks Brian, Jim, and Gus.  I am glad you are enjoying the build.  Today I finished the bores in the bearing supports and caps.  After mounting the caps to the bearing supports I drilled the bores using a 1/2 inch drill.



Then mounted them to the base, clamped it on edge in the mill vise, and finished the bores using the boring head.



Here are all the finished pieces assembled.  Next up will be the crankshaft.  I am going to attempt a one piece crankshaft.


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## Swifty (Mar 8, 2014)

Very neat build, I'm following along with interest.

Paul.


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## gus (Mar 9, 2014)

weez said:


> Thanks Brian, Jim, and Gus.  I am glad you are enjoying the build.  Today I finished the bores in the bearing supports and caps.  After mounting the caps to the bearing supports I drilled the bores using a 1/2 inch drill.
> View attachment 68511
> 
> 
> ...



Hi Weez,

Very well done . You have raised the bar.. Will be tough to keep up with Weez. My jobs are very ''Russian'' looks untidy outside. Worked on Russian Air Compressors which had very rough casting finish but the internal very well done.
Will try hard to get very good finishing on next job.


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## dreeves (Mar 10, 2014)

Great looking engine keep up the pictures. Can't wait to see it running

Dave


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## weez (Mar 16, 2014)

I finally completed the crankshaft today.  The first step was to center drill both ends in the mill.



Then I milled out the majority of material from the center of the throw.  Note the 1/4" rod sticking out the left end.  I welded this on to drive the piece when mounted between centers in the lathe.



I mounted it between centers in the lathe and turned the throw using a 1/16" parting tool.  This step was the most nerve racking of the build so far because of the interrupted cut and having to have the parting tool extended about an inch.  I took very light cuts and used lots of cutting fluid, yet it felt as if I was about to break the tool the entire time.  I was really glad to get this done without incident.



After a lot of time with a hacksaw, I remounted on the lathe.  I used a 3/8" bolt in the center web to keep it from flexing.



Then turned down the rest.



Finally parted of each end to length.



And the finished crankshaft.


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## gus (Mar 16, 2014)

Hi Maestro Weez,

Gus will monkey see/monkey do when he machine same crankshaft. All my prefabbed c/shafts were disasters.
Hopefully will get the H&M going this week on the Rupnow H&M Engine going.


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## weez (Mar 19, 2014)

Here are the bearings.  First drill and ream to 7/16".



Then turn down to 9/16".



And part off leaving a 1/32" flange.



After repeating for bearing #2, here are the finished pieces.


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## weez (Mar 23, 2014)

And now for the cylinder liner.  I started with a chunk  of 1" cast iron.  Turned it down to .950" with a 1" lip on the end.



Then drilled the bore with a 1/2" drill and used a boring bar to get the final bore dimension of .75".



Parted off to length.



And the finished liner.  I used a brake cylinder hone to smooth out the bore.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 23, 2014)

I used 316 stainless for my Kerzel cylinder, because I didn't want to look into the water reservoir and see rust. I have been told since that 316 stainless was a bad choice for cylinder material if you plan on using metal rings to seal the piston. I used a Viton o-ring, and have never had a problem.


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## weez (Mar 23, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> I used 316 stainless for my Kerzel cylinder, because I didn't want to look into the water reservoir and see rust. I have been told since that 316 stainless was a bad choice for cylinder material if you plan on using metal rings to seal the piston. I used a Viton o-ring, and have never had a problem.



I thought of using stainless but I am not sure if my lathe is rigid enough to get good surface finish on stainless.  It seems to struggle enough with mild steel.  What type of lathe do you have?  Do you use coolant when machining stainless?

I am also going to use an o-ring instead of cast iron rings.  I already went through your build log to find out the correct groove size for the piston.  Thank you for the great build log for me to reference.  I'm sure I will be referencing it again in the near future.


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## Path (Mar 23, 2014)

Weez,

Looking good thanks for sharing.
Lots of nice photos ...

I'm also using SS316 for the cylinder in Brian's Hit and Miss with a Viton O-ring.
Should work without a problem.


Pat H


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 24, 2014)

My lathe is a BusyBee 10" x 18".--The 316 seemed to machine as easy as cast iron or mild steel.-Brian


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## weez (Apr 4, 2014)

After a short break from the shop I made the piston.  First I milled a square section on the end of a piece of 1 inch cast iron rod.  I will use this square section when drilling the wrist pin hole and when milling the slot inside the piston for the connecting rod to ensure that they are perpendicular.



Then I mounted in the lathe using the four jaw chuck and turned the final diameter of .750".



Using a boring bar I bored out the inside to .625.



Then cut the o-ring groove using a parting tool.  Thank you to Brian Rupnow for providing the proper groove size in his excellent build thread of the Kerzel.



Over to the mill to drill and ream the wrist pin hole.



I am going to use two set screws to retain the wrist pin so I drilled and tapped the 4-40 holes and then milled the slot for the connecting rod.



And finally the finished piston.


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## Draw-Tech (Apr 5, 2014)

Hi weez

Nice work. I used 17-4 stainlesssteel for my crank.

Jack
Draw-tech


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## weez (Apr 7, 2014)

Next is the connecting rod. First I drilled and reamed the holes for the wrist pin and crank.  I also drilled four 1/8" holes that I will use later when milling the sides.




Using a 1/2" end mill I milled out each end to form the inside radius of the ends.



Then milled down the middle section, flipped and repeated on the other side.



I used drill bits in the 1/8" holes to clamp the piece at the correct angle.



Then milled out the middle section.  Flipped over and repeated.



Then rounded and profiled the ends on the rotary table.



Here is the finished connecting rod.


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## weez (Apr 13, 2014)

This weekend I made the head.  First turned the shape.



Then on the mill I drilled all the bolt holes, spark plug hole, and valve holes.



Then used two drill bits to locate it properly in the mill vise to drill the intake and exhaust holes.





Here is the finished head.


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## weez (Apr 16, 2014)

Here are the completed valve guides and valves.


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## weez (Apr 17, 2014)

No new parts today.  I spent the evening giving the shop an overdue cleaning.  While I was out there I snapped a picture of the current state of the engine.


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 17, 2014)

Looking very swoopy---I like it.---Brian


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## danstir (Apr 18, 2014)

Really enjoying your build.  Thanks for taking the time to share it.


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## AussieJimG (Apr 18, 2014)

Beautiful looking engine. I am still following with interest.

Jim


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## gus (Apr 20, 2014)

Would be great to this engine running.


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## weez (Apr 26, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Looking very swoopy---I like it.---Brian


Thanks Brian.  I've never heard the term swoopy before, but I will take it as a compliment.



danstir said:


> Really enjoying your build.  Thanks for taking the time to share it.





AussieJimG said:


> Beautiful looking engine. I am still following with interest.
> 
> Jim


Thanks guys, glad you are enjoying the build.



gus said:


> Would be great to this engine running.


I agree Gus.  I too would like to see this running but I still have a lot more parts to make.


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## weez (Apr 26, 2014)

Today was another first for me.  I decided to try to make some intake valve springs.  I made an insert to fit in my dial test indicator holder that has a point on one end and a .020 hole through it.  I fed a piece of .010 spring wire through the insert and wrapped it around the shank of a no.28 drill bit.  While hand turning the chuck I fed the carriage by hand for the first few wraps, then with the lathe threading gears set for 16 TPI I engaged the half nuts to feed the middle part.  Then disengaged the half nuts and again hand fed a few wraps.  After removing from the lathe and trimming of the extra wraps they look pretty good.  I am not sure if I will relax them in a oven or not.  Is this necessary?


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## creast (Apr 27, 2014)

Lovely work!! Can't wait to see up and running. You are amking rapid progress. Keep up the good work. 

Rich


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## Brian Rupnow (Apr 27, 2014)

Swoopy is a compliment. It refers to the Art Deco look of the curves in the frame. You are doing a great job.---Brian


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## AussieJimG (Apr 27, 2014)

Nice looking springs Weez, I have been experimenting with a spring winding insert for my tangential tool holder.

I wil continue the experiments when I get home from Cabin Fever (still going, now in Nashville).

Jim


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## weez (Apr 27, 2014)

Thanks Jim.  I was surprised at how easy it was to make springs.  Good luck with yours.

Today I made the tension springs for the governor.  I set the change gears up for 96 TPI which is the closest I could get to the desired pitch of .010"(the width of the wire).  Then I wound a length of about an inch on a .093" diameter mandrel.



Then trimmed to length and bent over the end two turns to make the eyes.



Here are the final batch of springs including the .010" intake, .014" exhaust, and .020" cam follower springs.


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## weez (Jul 8, 2014)

With summer here I have not had much shop time but I finally completed one more piece, a flywheel.  After turning to size I used the rotary table to mill out the recess.  I prefer to do this on the mill instead of the lathe.



Then drill all the holes that make up the inner part of the spokes.



Mill the top arcs of the cutouts.



Mill both sides of the spokes.



And the finished part.  It needs a little cleaning/polishing but I think it turned out well.  Now I need to make another one.


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## hedgehog (Jul 8, 2014)

Very nice work, keep the pictures coming


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## bmac2 (Jul 9, 2014)

Fantastic job Weez
I think one of the best things with the *Kerzel Hit and Miss is that when youre done it really is a great looking engine. Keep up the good work. Ill be tagging along*


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## gus (Jul 9, 2014)

Fly-wheel done on a mini-mill takes lotsa skill. Well done.

My next flywheel will have spokes too.


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## creast (Jul 10, 2014)

Awesome work Weez! Nice spring winding too. I did mine manually on a threaded rod as per Kerzel and it was a bit tricky. In the end I used steel guitar strings which worked fine but I did have to play around with the inlet valve spring to get it to work just right. Keep up the posts !


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## weez (Jul 18, 2014)

Thanks everyone for the compliments.  I am glad you are enjoying the build.  Progress has been slow since summer is here.  I got the second flywheel done which should be the last of the larger parts.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jul 19, 2014)

Weez--That looks really great!!!---Brian


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## weez (Jul 27, 2014)

Thank you Brian.  Today I made the rocker arm pivot.  After milling the stock to size I milled out the profile.




Then drilled the mounting holes.



Then drilled/reamed the pivot hole.  When a hole crosses a slot I like to drill the hole before making the slot to keep the drill bit from wandering.



Now milling the slot.



Mill down one side.



Flip over and mill the other side.



And here is the finished part.


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## weez (Aug 30, 2014)

Today was another first for me.  Today I cut my first gear.  I must say it was fairly easy.  I bought a set of Mod 0.8 cutters from CTC Tools.  I went with Mod 0.8 as it is close to the 32 pitch that the plans call for. First I turned a chunk of 12L14 to the proper dimensions.



Then without removing the blank from the 3-jaw chuck, I removed the chuck from the lathe and mounted it on the rotary table.  After setting the involute gear cutter right on center, I used a sharpie  to blacken the blank.  I then turned the mill by hand and slowly moved  the cutter towards the blank until it just skimmed the color off of it.   I zeroed my DRO and then moved the cutter in the appropriate amount (I  hope).



I don't have dividing plates for my rotary table so I just moved 18 degrees between each cut, double checking that I moved the correct amount each time.  Half done, looks good so far.



Here is the finished gear.  It looks right to me but I won't know for sure until the bigger gear is done to see if they mesh well.


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## gus (Aug 31, 2014)

Hi Weez.

Welcome to the ''HMEM Gear Cutting Gang''. And you got thru with no one half-tooth. Congrats.
A few of us ''eager beavers'' have a good collection of 1/2 tooth DIY paper weights.


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## gus (Aug 31, 2014)

Hi Weez.

Welcome to the ''HMEM Gear Cutting Gang''. And you got thru with no one half-tooth. Congrats.
A few of us ''eager beavers'' have a good collection of 1/2 tooth DIY paper weights.


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## weez (Sep 1, 2014)

Up next is the big gear.  I deviated from the plans a little and made the gear and cam one piece.  I started with a chunk of 1 1/2" 12L14 round bar in my 4" four jaw chuck.  I turned the end down to 1" so that it will fit in my 3" three jaw chuck.



After switching to the 3 jaw I turned the blank to size.



Without removing it from the chuck, mounted on the rotary table.  After cutting the teeth on the gear I moved on to cutting the cam profile.  I used http://modelenginenews.org/design/CamTable.html to get the coordinates for cutting the cam, making a cut every 2 degrees.





And the finished gear/cam.  I still need to clean up the cam a little but for my first cam I think it turned out good.



The two gears seem to mesh well.  And Gus you will note that there is no half tooth.


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## gus (Sep 9, 2014)

Hi Weez.

Those are great looking gears. And is this your first attempt???


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## gus (Sep 9, 2014)

To cut noise your may have to lap them togethers. After lapping they are quiet quiet.


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## weez (Sep 19, 2014)

Up next is the regulator arm pivot.  After turning to size and drilling/tapping the end to 6-32, I mounted it in a v-block and drilled the hole for the pivot pin.



Then rotated the v-block in the vice and milled the slot.



And here is the finished part.


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## weez (Sep 20, 2014)

Next is the cam slide bearing.  First I drilled a 1/8" hole for the inside radius of the corner.



Then mill the profile.



Mill the slot.



Then drilled the mounting hole.  I had to use a center drill for the countersink as my countersinking bit is too wide to fit in the slot.



After rounding one end with a file, here is the finished part.


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 21, 2014)

Still following and still looking great.---Brian


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## weez (Sep 21, 2014)

Here are the push rod bearing and push rod.


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## weez (Sep 21, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Still following and still looking great.---Brian



Thanks again Brian.  You have mentioned in some of your build threads that after a while it seems as though you are posting in a vacuum.  I think that this thread is at that point. I only have a few more parts to make before I can try to run it (not in hit and miss mode), then things should get more interesting.


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 21, 2014)

Weez--It's probably not a great idea to have a brass rod sliding in a brass block. Anytime you have two pieces of metal sliding or rotating against one and other, it is better to stick to dis-similar metals. There is not a heavy load on the pieces you just posted, but it is something to be aware of. And yes, it isn't much fun to post about your project when people have stopped commenting on it. Your "visits" counter keeps going up, but that's not much consolation. It's a lot nicer when folks stop by and say Hi.


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## gus (Sep 21, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Weez--It's probably not a great idea to have a brass rod sliding in a brass block. Anytime you have two pieces of metal sliding or rotating against one and other, it is better to stick to dis-similar metals. There is not a heavy load on the pieces you just posted, but it is something to be aware of. And yes, it isn't much fun to post about your project when people have stopped commenting on it. Your "visits" counter keeps going up, but that's not much consolation. It's a lot nicer when folks stop by and say Hi.


 

Its true I had the bad experience when overhauling a Scale Pit Pump hundereds of miles away from Singapore. No matter how much grease I out in it did not slow down the scoring.


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## Swifty (Sep 21, 2014)

As stated above, similar metals will score and gall up when worked together. When I as designing press tools to pierce and form stainless steel, the normal high carbon, high chrome punches were no good, we had to use HSS for this type of material.

Paul.


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## weez (Oct 4, 2014)

Brian, Gus, and Swifty,
I am aware that it isn't a good idea to use the same materials on sliding parts.  I didn't give it a thought as the plans call for brass for both parts.  I am going to leave both pieces brass and see how it goes.  Worst case scenario I that I have to remake both simple pieces.

Here are a few more finished parts starting with the cam follower.



Pivot pin.



And finally the push rod lock nut.


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## weez (Oct 5, 2014)

Here is my next part.  Within this Swiss cheese looking chunk of brass is a rocker arm.  I drilled a hole at every inside corner and on a tangent line of each face.



First I milled the side profile.



Then I used drill bits in two holes to locate the piece at the correct angle to mill the first face.  I used two #60 bits under each larger bit to act as parallels.



After removing the bits, I milled down until the holes disappear.



Then set up and mill the next face.





Repeat this process for the remaining two faces.





And after rounding the ends with a file and locktiting a ball in one hole, here is the finished part.


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## weez (Oct 7, 2014)

I am going to use an electronic ignition with a hall sensor.  Here is the magnet disk before locktiting the magnet in and the hall sensor mount.



I used heat shrink tubing to attach the sensor to the mount.



I also completed the spark plug.  I hooked it up to the ignition and I am getting a nice blue spark.





I completed the carburetor but forgot to take a picture.  Here is the engine to date. Hopefully I will attempt to run it tomorrow.


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## weez (Oct 8, 2014)

Alright, ready for the first run attempt.  Set the ignition timing to a little after TDC.  Carb needle valve one turn out.  Spin flywheel by hand a bunch of times.  Nothing.  Open needle valve another half turn.  Spin by hand.  Nothing.  Another half turn and hand spin, still nothing.  Arm getting tired.  Why didn't I make a drive dog for the drill?  Too late, I need to see this thing run.  Repeat opening valve and spinning flywheel.  Finally a pop.  Keep spinning and adjusting, getting more pops but no sustained run.  Why am I getting bubbles between head and the cylinder?  Oh, I forgot to tighten the head bolts.  After tightening try again.  Spin flywheel, pops.  Keep spinning, more pops.  More spinning and finally a short sustained run.  Keep tweaking carb and get it to run for longer periods.  Play around with ignition timing.  Advance it to about TDC.  Engine takes off.  Almost too fast.  Quick shut it off.  Set carb a little richer and try again.  Running pretty good, and a little slower.  Turn needle in a little and engine takes off again.  I think I found the sweet spot.  Here is the video with it running a little rich.  I didn't want to run it too fast.  It does run better if I lean it out but I will wait until the governor is complete so that I don't over rev it.
http://youtu.be/F1rl6jZ9yI0


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## Ogaryd (Oct 8, 2014)

Good job WEEZ, That's really awesome.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 8, 2014)

Feels good, doesn't it. Congratulations.---Brian


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## gus (Oct 9, 2014)

Hi Weez,

Awsome.
This engine on my build list.  Been wanting to build one of this as it look like the real H&M Engines used on the farms in the good old days. Sadly have yet to see one of these engines running in Singapore or Malaysia. Have seen single piston Ruston Engines that last forever. No worry on the spare parts. There are specialist machineshops that will overhaul your engine with in-house made parts. Pistons, rings, gudgeon pins and even white metalling bearings.


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## weez (Oct 18, 2014)

Thanks for the comments guys.  It is a relief to finally have it running.  Now onto the governor parts.  First up is the yolk.  I found a chunk of 1 1/2" aluminum in the scrap bin just long enough to make it out of.  After turning a small chucking register so that it will fit in my 3 jaw chuck I turned the OD and bored the ID.




Without removing the piece from the chuck, I mounted the chuck on the rotary table on the mill and milled the flat parts of the ears of the yolk.



Then rounded over both sides.



And finished milling the rest of the profile.



Then mounted the rotary table vertically in the mill.  Turned the piece so that the ears were horizontal and drilled the pivot holes and drilled/tapped the hole for the set screw.



Turned the piece so the ears were vertical and milled one slot.  Turned again so the other ear was on top and milled the other slot.



Put the chuck back on the lathe and parted off.  I am not a big fan of interrupted parting cuts but it parted off without incident.



And here is the finished piece.


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## creast (Oct 18, 2014)

Lovely stuff Weez!
She runs sweet too! I remember getting callused finger and thumb from repeated flicking of the flywheel so it looks like you hit it right first time.


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## weez (Oct 19, 2014)

Now for the weight arm.  First drilled the pivot hole, two 1/4" holes, and spot drilled the center point of the small rounded end.



Milled the flat portion.



Mounted on the rotary table in the mill using a pointed spud to locate on the small center point.



Then rounded over the small nub.



And then located on the pivot hole and rounded over the end.



Here are the finished parts.


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## weez (Oct 20, 2014)

Here are the weights.  First drilled the holes for the pins that the springs connect to in the top and bottom of a piece of brass large enough for both weights.



Then drill/countersink the mounting holes.  I also center drilled the center of the piece.



After screwing it to a chunk of aluminum I mounting it in the four jaw chuck on the lathe, locating on the center drilled spot.  Then turned the OD.



Drilled/bored the ID.



Back in the mill I milled out the center portion.



After Locktiting in the pins, here are the finished weights.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 20, 2014)

Weez---I remember making all of those parts the first year I got into machining, and thinking how incredibly small they were. You're doing a great job.---Brian


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## gus (Oct 20, 2014)

Hi Weez,
Very well done. You have made it look so easy.


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## weez (Oct 26, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Weez---I remember making all of those parts  the first year I got into machining, and thinking how incredibly small  they were. You're doing a great job.---Brian


Thank you Brian for the compliment.  After making a few of Elmer's engines with quite tiny steam valve pieces, most of these pieces actually seem fairly large to me.  Its funny on how one's perspective can change.  Before I got into model engineering about two years ago, I had never seen a screw smaller than a 6-32.  When I first used a 2-56 screw I was amazed at how tiny they were.  Now after using many 2-56 screws in my various builds they seem average size and a 6-32 screw seems huge.



gus said:


> Hi Weez,
> Very well done. You have made it look so easy.


Thank you Gus.  Things are definitely getting easier for me.  I owe it all to the members of this forum.  Nearly everything I know about machining I learned from reading this forum.

Today's offering is the regulator arm.  I drilled a series of holes around the outer perimeter of what will be the finished part.



Then I used drill bits in each set of holes to locate the piece at the correct angle in the vice and milled down until the holes are gone.  I repeat this for each face of the perimeter.  If you have followed some of my builds you will see I have used this technique several times.  It is becoming my favorite way of creating a piece with many different angles.



And here is the finished part.


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## weez (Nov 29, 2014)

Have not updated the thread for a while but I have been working on the engine.  I finished up all of the governor parts.  Here is the video of it running on hit and miss.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iRqz91L5Is[/ame]


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## /// (Nov 30, 2014)

Awesome work Weez!
I've been meaning to build the Kerzel for many years and have about 75% completed the modelling in 3D CAD to convert the plans to metric, but I never finished.... (w*rk and a new baby boy etc etc.)
Seeing your completed engine has inspired me to get to work on this again!
Lovely!
Are you going to paint her?


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## xpylonracer (Nov 30, 2014)

Hi Weez

Great little engine and the sound is terrific, like Simon you have given me the getupandgo to continue my build.

Rgds, Emgee


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 30, 2014)

Nice work Weez. ---Brian


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## gg89220 (Nov 30, 2014)

hello
great success Weez


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## gus (Nov 30, 2014)

Hi Weez,

Great Engine and great H&M Sound.


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## Swifty (Nov 30, 2014)

Great job, starts easily and runs very well. There is a lot of satisfaction in building something and then seeing it run.

Paul.


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## weez (Dec 2, 2014)

Thank you everyone for the compliments.  Simon and xpylonracer, I am glad I motivated you to continue with your projects.  I still need to make the gas tank and a base for it.  I am not going to paint it other than maybe painting the spokes of the flywheels.


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## weez (Dec 7, 2014)

Now for the muffler.  First turn out half of the profile and drill a hole part way through.



After parting off, I flipped it around and turned the other half.



Then with the rotary table on the mill I drilled ten 1/16" holes around half of the perimeter.



Here is the finish muffler along with an intake filter I made.  The screen is out of a faucet aerator.


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## weez (Dec 7, 2014)

Here are the gas tank mounts.  The gas tank will be made of a 2" length of copper pipe.  First in the mill I drill a 1/2" hole in the center and two 1/4" holes that will make up the inner radius of the bottom of the mount.



Then into the 4 jaw chuck on the lathe centered on the 1/2" hole.  I bored the hole open until I could just slip the copper pipe through the hole.



Then mounted on the rotary table on the mill, I rounded the outside of the mount.



After repeating for the second one, here are the finished mounts.


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## weez (Dec 7, 2014)

And now the gas tank.  I cut a length of 1" copper pipe and faced off both ends.  I did not have any large enough round stock so I had to make the ends of the tank out of 1/4" by 1 1/2" rectangular bar.  I turned a small boss that fits inside the pipe.




Then soldered on the end cap, trimmed off the corners with a hack saw, and mounted in the lathe.



I turned down the brass ends and used some 400 grit sandpaper to clean up the ends and polish the copper.



Here is the tank and the mounts.  I still need to make the filler and outlet ports.


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## gus (Dec 8, 2014)

Fuel Tank looks good. Am glad the copper pipe survived the drilling. Please advise drilling process.


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## Swifty (Dec 8, 2014)

Gus, I always hold the pipe in my milling vice on the ends, I can get a 6"opening, I then drill a pilot hole and follow with a milling cutter.

Paul.


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## gus (Dec 11, 2014)

Hi Paul,

Your method is best and risk/fool proof. I took the risk drilling on the drill press but drill was regrind for brass and copper(hopefully) and got away when drill broke through w/o snatching.Holding the copper pipe lengthwise in the vice was not best idea too. Neither was vice clamped to drill press.
May not this lucky for next job.


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## weez (Jan 11, 2015)

After about 220 hours of work over the past 11 months, I have completed my build of Kerzel's Hit and Miss.  This was my first IC engine and I am very pleased with how it turned out.













[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_GUp5UXmxE[/ame]


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## Swifty (Jan 12, 2015)

A great looking model, and runs well too. Really something to be proud of.

Paul.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jan 12, 2015)

Excellent job. Be proud!!!---Brian


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## creast (Jan 13, 2015)

Lovely workmanship. She runs really good! Brings back memories when I finally got mine up and running. Happy days!


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## higbyrichard (Jan 19, 2015)

Inspirational.  Many thanks for sharing this journey.
Warm regards
Richard - Sydney Australia


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## xpylonracer (Jan 19, 2015)

Runs and looks great, slows to a stop nicely when the spark removed.


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## gus (Jan 20, 2015)

Hi Weez,

One more engine on my '' build list''. Run very well and very classy finishing. Will hours of joy just looking at it for many years.


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