# Sheet Metal Shear Set up



## Propforward (Dec 20, 2008)

Hello Folks,

It's been a while since I posted - I'm afraid I'm one of those annoying very occasional users! ;D This is a great forum though - lots of excellent info around!

Anyway, I just picked up a new addition to my arsenal, a small sheet metal machine. It's a combination shear, slip roll press brake. Here it is:












It's rather a nice little machine, I like it a lot. It's only for light duty work, which is fine I don't anticipate doing a whole lot of sheet metal work. This can handle 10" wide sheets.

Anyway, as usual I have to go over it and give it a clean, and make sure it is all set up correctly before starting. My question is - is there any recommendations on setting the blades on a shear? (of course there are - but what are they?) Should there be a clearnace gap, does this vary for different materials, or should the shear blades be set to slightly rub as the cut is made?

The manual that came with the machine is not the best, and in any case I am looking for the voice of experience! I have done a little bit of sheet metal work in the past, but not much.

Thanks all!


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## hitandmissman (Dec 20, 2008)

Hello, I've been wanting to buy one of those myself for model work. I can't say on the small shear but--I worked in industrial maintenance for 30 years and the way we set the big shears was with a filler gauge. Than when we were sure the blade would not touch, we would test cut. Than move the blade closer together until there was no burr left on the cut piece. Sometimes ya had to leave a very small burr, but never let them come together they will chip.


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## Propforward (Dec 20, 2008)

Excellent! thanyou very much - that is exactly the kind of info I hoped for!

I'll get this cleaned up and get a hold of some metal sheet, and have a few practice goes!


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 20, 2008)

PF I have one of those machines on my bench as well. I disassembled it and cleaned it up some. I cant say I have gotten all the kinks out or used it much I have had it a couple of years. Besides the shear issue you need to clean up the bending leaves to remove sharp edges and burrs. My sheet metal experience comes from aircraft work so i learned no sharp edges all bends have a radius. 
I have a book on making model aircraft etc from aluminum beverage cans . I have a 3lb coffee can or two filled with sheets cut from Arizona tea cans. One of these days I plan on taking them to the shear and cleaning up all the ragged edges. 
Maybe someday I will build a boiler and make a housing for it. 
Tin


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## Propforward (Dec 20, 2008)

+1 on that Tin Falcon - I just took the machine apart to clean all the shipping slime off, and sure enough the brake dies are badly burred. They will clean up OK though. For the price this looks like a nifty little machine. The shipping slime has done its job, and after liberal application of WD40 to clean that off, and reapplication of some better oil, the cutting table, blades and rollers have cleaned up very well indeed. I'm looking forward to giving it a try!


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## itowbig (Dec 20, 2008)

tin what is the name of that book ive been searching for such an item for a while . if you please. thank you.


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 20, 2008)

Propforward you should put a radius on those bending leaves I would keep it tight probably in the 1/32 range or even a 1/64 but not knife sharp.
ITOWBIG
Here is a link
http://www.sensibleadlink.com/candu/
I will start another thread with more info.
Tin


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## Propforward (Dec 20, 2008)

Thanks for the tip! I'll do that.

That is a great looking book, I might have to pick up a copy of that too.


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## Tin Falcon (Dec 20, 2008)

PF you can always make the radius on the bend bigger by adding a sacrifice piece between the work and bending leaf but the radius on the leaf will determine the tightest bend the machine will do.
Tin


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