# A "Wallaby" of my own



## steamer (Jun 9, 2012)

Hi All,

OK so after some proding by a few of you, I decided I would start my own build thread on a Wallaby 2 cylinder in line twin as designed by Westbury. I am starting with the same castings that Metalmad is using on his great build thread, and to be honest, I wanted to not post this build until Pete was finished...But I think he's close enough now.  Nice Build if you haven't looked !

I would like this engine to be "marine" like so I will be building it along the lines of a small ship's engine.

I would like to build it along according to the plans and won't be modifying it much beyond piping perhaps.
I've taken a couple of initial cuts on the main block and will be doing some other work on it perhaps this weekend.

I do need to point out that my family and SB overhaul are the number one priorities and I am currently balancing that against my finances and my job which is going NUTS right now....and I suspect that won't change for a few months.

I will be building this engine as time permits, and from the perspective of cash flow with as much of my own infrastructure as possible.....I may make some gear cutters for instance .....

So I ask that your patient .....this will take a while.

Thanks!

Dave


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## vcutajar (Jun 9, 2012)

Dave

And I thought you were going to say you would finish it in a couple of months. :big: :big:

I pulled my deckchair, umbrella and cocktail and will follow your version of the Wallaby. No hurry. As somebody said "One good part at a time".

Vince


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## tvoght (Jun 9, 2012)

The Wallaby is such a neat looking engine. I've been enjoying metalmad's build, and I'll enjoy yours.

--TIm


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## steamer (Jun 9, 2012)

Tim and Vince,
Thank you for your kind comments and support!
I have some pictures.....and there is one more set up i want to complete
ill post tonight
Dave


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## ozzie46 (Jun 9, 2012)

I'll be following along as well. I'm not going anywhere for a spell, so make chips when you can.

  Ron


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## tel (Jun 9, 2012)

Don't get too hung up on the gears Dave, I know a bloke - with references!


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## ShedBoy (Jun 9, 2012)

Lookin forward to it. No rush

Brock


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## steamer (Jun 9, 2012)

Ron, Tel and Brock,

Thanks for the interest!

Tel, I may take you up on that.....then again it's been a while since I cut a gear....we'll see.

Thankyou!.....

OK

Its a start
The two halves faced in the lathe using the 4 jaw...no pic of the set up. The key here is to get the bolt flange all the same thickness all the way around after facing off.






I then faced the other side of the block in the mill to .04 over in height ( 3.350") and I checked for parallelism.  I then registered the two pieces together with superglue so I can drill the sump bolts (#5-40) for a close fit. That will drive the rest of the machining.

Here they are all ready for the bolt holes to be drilled.
















Next up will be turning the spigot on the timing case.  I have a very specific order of operations planned for this engine, so it involves making a bunch of the various bits first before all the machining is done on the block. One of these is the timing gear cover.. I'll be doing that one on the faceplate with one of my subplates shown here.






I started it by using a flat file to dress the back face somewhat flat....just so it doesn't rock and the it's about the same thickness all the way around.

The center spigot will be turned round and straight and then bored. That will be datum for the rest of the cover.
I have a little box of little straps I made years ago. They're #10 and 1/4-20. Perfect for small parts...you make them then you wonder how you ever got along with out them!

We progress.....

Dave


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## metalmad (Jun 10, 2012)

This is Gunna be so cool ;D
this will officially be my favorite build :big:
Pete


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 10, 2012)

Hay Dave,

I am definitely looking forward to this one.

I like the subplate :bow: ( now there's another tool I need! ) :

Cheers

Bez


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

Hey Bez and Pete,

Thanks guys....I'm going to try to show setups as I go. I'm also going to do most of this on the lathe. I'm lathe centric and as a result, I will try to demonstrate the versitility of the lathe. I think the novices on the board might benefit from seeing what you can do with inexpensive fixtures and some ingenuity.  Additionally, my big mill...Norm, isn't as young as he used to be and for vice work, he's alright, but the table is crowned a bit. That shouldn't matter much on small parts like these though.

I will preface that the methods I'm showing may not be the best way, but are way's that I know will work, and with tooling that is pretty available to most people here.  The sub plate above is an example of that. It' just a piece of aluminum, with an array of 1/4-20 tap drilled holes in it. It doesn't need to be rectangular!  I also added two 1/2" holes for 3/8" bolts to hold this plate to my 10" faceplate in my Logan. Now my 12" Logan is bigger than "most" hobbiest lathes...Mr rkepler's Monarch 10EE aside ;D, and I'm sure I am missing a few others... but the "METHOD" is exactly the same for a 7X lathe...so you guys that are "new" to lathes, don't let the lathes size throw ya.  It's all the same.

Why a faceplate?  Well a faceplate is a cool item.  It allows enormous eccentricities, while maintaining a common perpendicular Datum.  Even a 4 jaw is not a versitle as a faceplate in that regard.  It also allows nearly infinte flexibility in regards to fixturing a part to the faceplate....straps, screws, bolts wedges,...ad nauseum! can be made to work on a faceplate.  Additionally it is a great platform for dedicated fixtures.  

It isn't as quick change as say a 3 jaw or a collet....but then a collet can't hold an engine timing case cover!

My Faceplate is large and heavy. I made it that way the rim is 1" thick. It started life as a large chuck backplate.

The subplate is aluminum. I don't see why it couldn't, for some applications, be made of plywood! It just needs to be stable and rigid enough to take the cut.  

A caution!  Faceplates can be dangerous. It can be festoned with clamps and straps and parts and bolts. It can be out of balance! Before you run it , it needs to be turned through 1 complete revolution!  This is to make sure you don't strike anything on the lathe with the faceplate, part or faceplate furniture.....yes that is what they call it.

Then it must be balanced!

Here's an example of a set up with balance weights.




In this case, the two bores needed to be parallel.

Here's one modifying a dividing head footstock...this worked really well





And one of the bare faceplate on the Logan





Faceplates need lots of caution and good judgement and shouldn't be run fast,  but they are really cool and solve a lot of problems.

Dave


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## tvoght (Jun 10, 2012)

Count me as one novice ready to be schooled in lathe-centric methods.

--TIm


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

Tim,

Thankyou for your interest. I will never claim to be a "master" lathe guy.  You could run a lathe all your life and not learn it all, But I sure know alot about what NOT to do!......ask me how I learned that.... :big:

When I started, all there was were books...no internet!  if I had this medium, It would have been a lot easier! Just trying to give some back.

Dave


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## Ramon (Jun 10, 2012)

Just picked up on your new thread Dave - you're off to a fine start Thm: Thm:. Time isn't of the essence it's the doing that's the best bit. I've often thought about doing a 'Seal' and fitting it in to something like a Thames 'Slipper Launch' but it's just a dream. I shall never live long enough as it is let alone adding more to the list 

I shall however, follow along with interest so count me in too

Regards - Ramon


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## compspecial (Jun 10, 2012)

Dave, my brain is like a sponge, waiting to soak up all the information it can  .I feel like I'm learning already!
                   Stew.


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

Your very kind Stew....I ask that the "old hands" comment and share on set ups as I go.,,,not to get to far off topic mind you , but to add value and teach.

Dave


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## RonGinger (Jun 10, 2012)

Dave, are you going to show Rollies faceplate setup fixture? To me that is the whole secret to using a face plate.


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

I should! I made one for my Atlas (1 1/2-8) but never got around to making one for the Logan 2 1/4-8 :big:

Guess I'll have too.... :big:

To all who may not know, Ron is refering to Rolland Gaucher, a mentor and friend of mine and many. This man is GOOD, and a heck of a guy.  And he LOVES faceplates.

I think it's safe to say Rollie is "Mr Faceplate".....though as of late, he's in love with his CNC mill..... ;D

If you have never seen Rollie's 1/4 scale Bentley BR2 rotary aircraft engine in full song, you should!

Dave


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## Don1966 (Jun 10, 2012)

Hi Dave just read you thread and I too will be following along. I need some education myself. Love the faceplate I need to build one of those. I have a T Slot face plate I made which was featured on Home Shop Machinist Magazine. Have not put it to use yet so I need education on setups.

Don


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## RonGinger (Jun 10, 2012)

I dont see how you can really do faceplate work with out Rollies fixture. I dont have a photo, but here is a brief description.

A piece of 2" angle iron, about 12" long is the base. Near one end is fixed a good ball bearing, with a stub end turned to match your lathe spindle. Rollie used a Volvo water pump bearing about 2" long with about a 1/2" shaft.

You first clamp the angle in your vise, with the top horizontal, spindle pointing up. You screw on your faceplate, which is now in a horizontal position. You can freely spin it as you mount the work on it. Near the other end of the angle is a rod to hold a DTI

In this position you can adjust the work until it runs true, with gravity helping to hold down all the furniture and work until its positioned and clamped.

Once its all running true you switch the angle iron in the vise so the faceplate is now vertical. In this position its easy to adjust the balance by adding weights and spinning the faceplate.

Once the work is running true and balanced you just unscrew the faceplate and transfer it to your lathe, ready to run.

This is the same Rollie of the 'Rollies Fathers Method' of lathe alignment, I would not be surprised if it was actually Rollies dad that came up with this fixture.


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

Mine is vice mounted Ron, I guess the easiest thing to do is make a new spindle. I've gotten away without it because I usually use a subplate and they bump around on a faceplate pretty easy with loose straps.

I'll snap a shot or two of my 1 1/2-8 one....I need to check the register diameter and compare it to my SB register anyway.

Dave


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## rebush (Jun 10, 2012)

Dave: Have a question. I have a Monarch Model K with a faceplate. Was wondering how you balanced the parts. Do you weight the parts with the hold downs and bolts then use equal weight on the opposite side of the faceplate. Or will you're lathe freewheel enough when not engaged to balance that way. Mine's a gear dive head and even out of gear it would have to be really heavy to move the faceplate in freewheel. I'm new to metalworking and have never even put the faceplate on. I believe you're going to show me why I should be using it. Will be following your build. Hope you don't mind the questions. Roger


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

I don't know Rodger. My Logan free wheels easy.
I would go with Rollies method, that might 
not be so easy if the lathe has a D1-4 or L00 spindle
though. If the brain trust here has a way to do this, speak 
up. Otherwise i would apply some common sense and way reduced speed and balance it experimentally
If you can feel vibration in the ways of a monarch you need to balance it

Additionally, horses for courses...I would be very concerned with balance of a F350 truck spindle weighing 200 pounds....in a monarch.......with a Wallaby timing cover...not so much
Like a lot of things....go slow and think about what your doing.

Comments anyone?

Dave

PS  Looks like a 13" Monarch "K" has a D1-6 spindle...


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## Ken I (Jun 10, 2012)

Hi Dave - just signing on for the ride.

wrt ballancing the faceplate I normally try to set it up (much like you have done) symetrically so only one ballancing weight it required then take a MkI eyball guess - if it vibrates move the weight out or in / add / remove weight.
A bit hit and miss but generally quick. Rollies method is better.

Ken


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

Hi Ken,
Thanks for the interest!
Yes the Mk1 eyeball is good to start with,,,but definitely keep the speed down......and tighten the furniture!

Dave


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## Maryak (Jun 10, 2012)

Thanks Dave, :bow:

The faceplate is probably the least used and least understood by many, (including me), machinists. I will always carry the memory of being chased by half a faceplate when the operator forgot to tighten the counterweight, which came around, flew out, hit the lathe bed, broke the faceplate. One half went who knows where; and the other was of particular interest as it headed in my direction, complete with 6" angle plate and a 2" bronze valve body.

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

As promised....mine looks different...but

Also the register doesn't fit a SB.....something I'll need to deal with I suppose...but not for now.







With the faceplate and mag stand...





OK....next is the holes for the sump, but I need to make a #5 spot facing drill first....

Dave


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## steamer (Jun 10, 2012)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Thanks Dave, :bow:
> 
> The faceplate is probably the least used and least understood by many, (including me), machinists. I will always carry the memory of being chased by half a faceplate when the operator forgot to tighten the counterweight, which came around, flew out, hit the lathe bed, broke the faceplate. One half went who knows where; and the other was of particular interest as it headed in my direction, complete with 6" angle plate and a 2" bronze valve body.
> 
> ...



 Rof}
There's something to be said for running faceplates slowly.  Funny now...bet it wasn't then! :big:


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 11, 2012)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Hey Bez and Pete,
> Snip>
> Here's an example of a set up with balance weights.
> 
> ...



There's a whole lesson for me in that picture - I know about balancing the face plate ( helps to keep the lathe from trying to walk away - I learned about that and bolting lathe to the floor in the same lesson ) ;D 


Now using a drive dog to to reduce the torque pressure on the drill chuck jaws. That's pure Gold.

Thanks Dave

 Bez


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 11, 2012)

Dave 

It Sounds like Rollie's fixture is very similar in concept to Harold Halls Balancing fixture.
I hope so I have a copy of Harald's design.  

http://www.homews.co.uk/page151.html












Bez


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## tel (Jun 11, 2012)

Maryak  said:
			
		

> Thanks Dave, :bow:
> 
> The faceplate is probably the least used and least understood by many, (including me), machinists. I will always carry the memory of being chased by half a faceplate when the operator forgot to tighten the counterweight, which came around, flew out, hit the lathe bed, broke the faceplate. One half went who knows where; and the other was of particular interest as it headed in my direction, complete with 6" angle plate and a 2" bronze valve body.
> 
> ...



That's right - tell 'arf the story! Did it catch you or not?????


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## steamer (Jun 11, 2012)

Bezalel  said:
			
		

> Dave
> 
> It Sounds like Rollie's fixture is very similar in concept to Harold Halls Balancing fixture.
> I hope so I have a copy of Harald's design.
> ...



That would be it!  I saw Rollies about 15 years ago or so...but that's it.

Oh and the driver dog on the drill is to take the pressure off the #2 MT shank.  A 10" Atlas is a light lathe.
I believe it was Fred Colvin who taught me that one.
Dave


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## arnoldb (Jun 11, 2012)

Good start Dave, and nice tips :bow:

 ;D I love my faceplate; though it does not get used all that often, it's indispensable for some jobs.

Kind regards, Arnold


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## Maryak (Jun 11, 2012)

tel  said:
			
		

> That's right - tell 'arf the story! Did it catch you or not?????



I'm still here, complete with all the relevant bits, so no, it missed. Mind you it did cost me some new underwear. 

Best Regards
Bob


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## steamer (Jun 13, 2012)

Well.........I made the spot facing tool and I rough machined the timing gear case tonight while mounted to the faceplate for the intial operation, and then flipped the part and mounted it in a collet to face the mounting surface....no mishaps...all went WELL!
Bez....the castings machine nice with some appropriate top rake on the tool and some light oil!  Plenty of stock for machining to size so far! :bow: :bow:  

The spot face tool works nicely too and is really easy to make....and I'll post photo's of that process too.

I took lots of pictures....but it's far too late to download and organize....tomorrow!......

Dave


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## steamer (Jun 13, 2012)

OK....here we go  first the spot facing tool....no drama here
Starting with annealled 0-1 tool steel 3/8" diameter.

The pilot is .125"  The spot face diameter is .250...there is a relief between the diameters made by my parting tool.





Next I mounted the part in the mill vice and milled the one side down until I just touched the pilot diameter...no measurement here...just keep adding to the depth until you see the side of the pilot get touched.
Now we want to cut the side opposite the same way. To do this I loosened the vice and rotated the part by hand approximately 180 degrees.  Then I layed a 6" scale against the side I just machined and rotated the part until the scale was visually parallel with the mill table....precision eyeball only here, and then made the same cut at the same depth.  The result is as below





Next I took a half round file and put a back rake on the two cutting lips about 15 degrees....eyeball-a-metric.






Note the direction of rotation!  don't cut the wrong side!

Next I put the embrionic spot facing tool into the drill press and started it.  I then heated the cutting end with a torch until it was bright red...while the spindle was turning.  Once I got to bright cherry red...I plunged red hot rotating tool into oil with the rotating quill.  The result is a very hard tool!

I decided that this tool did not need tempering and decided to try it as is.....and it cut very nicely.





OK that done, I decided that I would work the timing gear case....here it is mounted and into the first operation.





I then drilled undersize and bored the center to 0.438"





OK....next is to clean up the inside next to the gear....there was a little core corner crumble....so I figuired I would just flip the part and hold it on the 3/4" diameter in a collet.  time to change the faceplate for the collet chuck.

You have a piece of plywood to cover the ways on your lathe when you change chucks........RIGHT!?  ;D





Next it was a simple job to face the part back to the .4375 dimension and lightly bore the center to clean it up....




If you don't have a collet chuck, A 4 jaw will do here....if you use a 4 jaw....put some pop can aluminum around the finished part to keep the jaws from marring the work.
Nice nights work!






Dave


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## Don1966 (Jun 13, 2012)

Dave I am here still watching and like want I have been seeing so far. Very nice setups thanks for the lessons.

Don


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## steamer (Jun 13, 2012)

Thanks Don!  but there are other ways!

Go ahead and speak up!....how would you do it differently?

Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 13, 2012)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Go ahead and speak up!....how would you do it differently?




Faster! ;D ;D ;D


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## steamer (Jun 13, 2012)

Oh yeah kisses and hugs from me too! :-* :big:


come on....show me a better way......

How would you do it?


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 13, 2012)

Looking good so far! Wouldn't change anything.


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## metalmad (Jun 13, 2012)

Hi Dave 
I see Bez's Castings are top notch as usual :bow:
Pete


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## steamer (Jun 13, 2012)

They sure do seem nice pete!

The guy who built it with those castings put up a nice thread too! :bow: ;D

Dave


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## Rayanth (Jun 13, 2012)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Go ahead and speak up!....how would you do it differently?



Well, you see, I would... no, that wouldn't work....

How about... no... that's silly...

Oh I know! ... no wait... that's probably unsafe...

How could I do things differently.... I'd better ask steamer.

- Ryan


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## steamer (Jun 13, 2012)

Though flattering Ryan...I have to say that there are many other ways than just mine.  People seem a bit shy about it at the moment....but they'll pipe in eventually.

A lathe is fabulously versatile tool!


Dave


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## mu38&Bg# (Jun 13, 2012)

I love seeing all the crazy lathe setups. I don't use them often with a CNC mill in the shop, but they ideas get stored away for those times when they do in fact come in handy, as long as I can remember them.

Dave, it looks great, keep it coming.

Greg


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## steamer (Jun 13, 2012)

Thanks for the interest Greg!

It's funny...Rollie told me the same thing! :big: I don't have CNC or DRO's so it's all dial.

Dave


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## tel (Jun 14, 2012)

Nuttin' wrong with the dials - that's how I work as well.


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## ProdEng (Jun 14, 2012)

CNC is for work, speed and profit while dials are for relaxation. ;D

Jan


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## Maryak (Jun 14, 2012)

tel  said:
			
		

> Nuttin' wrong with the dials - that's how I work as well.



Me 3

Best Regards
Bob


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## tvoght (Jun 14, 2012)

All good. I especially appreciate the step-by-step on the spot facing tool, which is very similar to the valve seat cutting tool shown in the Upshur farm engine plans. I am emboldened by this lucid description.

--Tim


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## steamer (Jun 14, 2012)

tel  said:
			
		

> Nuttin' wrong with the dials - that's how I work as well.



No! Not at all!  Just different....and that was my point....there are lots of ways and means to machine the part....I highlighted a way using a lathe.....some might do the whole thing with a mill.....what way would you chose?

THAT"S my point.....

Dave


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## swilliams (Jun 14, 2012)

I'm watching quietly Dave. 

I like the way you did it in the lathe. How one would do it is (obviously) strongly influenced by what is readily available and I don't have the additional face plate tooling you have.

I'd probably put a centre punch in the centre of the casting spigot and clamp it directly onto the lathe face plate. I'd use a tailstock centre in the centre punch mark to get it running true enough before clamping. Could improve the runout later if necessary.

For the second operation I'd use a collet like you did if I had one of the required size. Failing that I might put a bit of bar in the 3jaw, turn it (leaving a shoulder) to fit in the hole that's just been bored in the casting and stick the casting on with super glue. Then turn out the centre face, next drill and tap a hole in the end of the shaft and clamp the casting onto the shaft more securely. Then face off with the interrupted cut, which would likely break the superglue without the clamping screw.

Not very different to how you've done it, just tailored to what I have in my shop.

Cheers
Steve


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## steamer (Jun 14, 2012)

Thank you Steve for your interest and most importantly your participation!

That's the kind of response I was looking for ..... :bow:

How would YOU do it....based on your experience and what tooling you have.

By the way...the "tooling" I have is anything but fancy....I'm sure you could make those straps from bits of bar.

Dave


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## steamer (Jun 14, 2012)

This bit of kit will be used in anger soon....






Dave


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## steamer (Jun 15, 2012)

Well, another year older! I think I'll celebrate by starting on the oil pump!  I intend to get that done so that I can complete the block/sump/ timing cover all in one setup while mounted in the lathe. To do that I need to have all the components so that I can locate them during this operation....so although it seems out of step, it jives with how I want to do it....

I've solicited input from the members as to methods so as to contrast and compare not necessarily with my methods....but to just demonstrate other ways that might fit with what YOU have ...but it seems it's not that well recieved...no matter.
I'll just continue on with the thread and if you would like to add....well go ahead.

Dave


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## Don1966 (Jun 15, 2012)

Hi! Dave did we miss a birthday. Did you say another year older and how old is that if you don't mind me asking?
I am still following you here and since I am new to machining I really haven't had any input for you as of yet. I will try to focus on giving my view and see if I am on the right track. I will want you to comment on my input when I do. I will continue to follow along here in the shadows.

Don


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 15, 2012)

Well OK! since 'e is soliciting so hard, let me show Sensei Dave San how the student would attempt this one. :

Basically, I would have done it pretty much back to front from what Dave did.

The thought of running an interupted cut on a relatively thin casting up to 2" from the colllet - well - let's say, without the demo, I would not have been that brave. 

The other consideration for me is go with the tools you know best - and as a machinist, I make a pretty good fettler.

One casting I pulled out of the sand had a generous flash along the part line - so a bit of a touch up in the recesses with a file then off to the linisher for a few minutes.

It seams to me at this stage, so as long as the engine contact face is relatively flat and parallel to the front face of the cover (give or take a couple of thou) all will be fine. 






With that in mind, and I know I can get better than wood workers accuracy ( no offence intended) on the linishing table top, the last operation on the linisher is to flatten and true up the back face of the cover ( and no risk of chatter) next step find and mark the location of the main shaft center as relative to the other castings and mount the cover on the lathe face plate ready for boring the same way Dave did it.

That's pretty much where it's at now.







Bez


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## steamer (Jun 16, 2012)

And there you have it sports fans!  Another way to do it!

Thanks Bez!
 :bow:

So you guys and gals wondering how to set up "YOUR" part....here's three approaches to get the juices flowing as to how to solve your machining problem.  Again, I don't need another thread on building something....I'm trying to help out the less experienced ones here...these aren't the only ways...but one might fit your situation...or give you the idea to another.

Dave



PS  Sensei!?  Unlikely.......


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## Blogwitch (Jun 16, 2012)

Dave,

It is about this time I usually chip in on someones build, and I have to say you are doing great work, and very easy to understand, keep it up.

BTW, I can't use a four jaw any more with any ease, very difficult with one good hand, but I really do enjoy faceplate work, but unlike yourself, I use it mainly for four jaw work that needs doing, but I get around the problem with a Keats angle plate, much easier for me as it is just a matter of tapping it into position, before tightening up. But I do have other faceplates of different sizes, one with t-slots and a small one with holes and clamps all over it. Designed to transfer between my lathe an mill, so saving a lot of resetting up.

As you say, everyone is different, what works for one might not work for another, so if one settup works for yourself, then stick with it, as long as it is safe to do so.


John


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## steamer (Jun 16, 2012)

Thanks John,

I appreciate the input and the kind comments!  I have an alternate motive also....my son.

I want to spend a bit of quality time with him making something together and to teach him how it's done....at least old school. with an engine....not just lego's

Having different perspectives from you guys gives him new vistas to think about...and a chance for me to transfer some hard won experience that you can't buy.  Where would a nine year old go to find this knowledge in this day and age?

Dave


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## steamer (Jun 16, 2012)

Don1966  said:
			
		

> Hi! Dave did we miss a birthday. Did you say another year older and how old is that if you don't mind me asking?
> I am still following you here and since I am new to machining I really haven't had any input for you as of yet. I will try to focus on giving my view and see if I am on the right track. I will want you to comment on my input when I do. I will continue to follow along here in the shadows.
> 
> Don



Yes Don, I had a birthday recently.....I'm almost and old fart now.... :big:,,,,I ain't dead yet!
And Don if you feel like contributing...feel free... :bow:


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## ProdEng (Jun 16, 2012)

Well here is my opinion on a machining sequence for the cover. My instinct would be to machine the gasket face first and everything else that could be managed in the same setup. My thinking would be to replicate a fixture; grip the casting by the spigot and support the rest of the casting with a couple of screw jacks. Machine the gasket face, the spot face for the through bore and the mounting holes. When you turn it over you have a good reference face and some reference holes to set up on. Bore the boss inside and out followed by a quick face mill. Easy ;D

Jan


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## Ken I (Jun 16, 2012)

A belated happy birthday Dave.

I would do it this way.

Linish the gasket face - place it face down on a surface plate / acetate film - place a box around it (possibly a modeling clay wall) -place a modeling clay extension on the boss - plus a couple of modeling clay plugs (for bolt holes) spray release agent - fill with polyurethane/ aluminium powder mixture (cures in about 10 mins).

Remove modeling clay - bolt to mill - skim the poly flat - turnover and clamp to table - you now have a perfect conformal support with bolt holes in it - the job normally "sticks" well enough for light machining - or simply add clamps as you go - machine the gasket face and all the holes.

A sharp smack to the boss (via the hole left by the modeling clay) should release the part - beware of reentrant angles - unlikely on a casting.

This may sound like a lot of work but it isn't and goes very quickly and is ideal if you are processing multiple parts.

I use all the materials commercially so they are always to hand - so for me its no big deal.

As one of our members bylines states - "when the only tool you have is a hammer, all problems look like nails" or something to that effect.

Just my 2c - since you asked. Next time I do it I'll post on it.

Regards,
      Ken


----------



## steamer (Jun 17, 2012)

Made up the oil pump housing today.  It didn't go exactly as planned but I perservered.
I need to order the 10T pinion stock before I bore the center.  I also need to make some toolmakers buttons to complete that operation. Then the front and back plates. Pictures later today.

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jun 17, 2012)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Made up the oil pump housing today.




You forgot to post the pictures.


----------



## steamer (Jun 17, 2012)

OK,  I foraged around my scrap bin and found a piece of bronze big enough to make the oil pump housing.  The problem is the size of the stock is 2.5" OD by 1/2" long.....tough to hold!

So I made a glue chuck.

First I bored the .875" back on the bronze and faced the stock in the 3 jaw. 

Then I turned up the glue chuck from a piece of 12L14 I had in the bin.  I turned 1 end to .375 and then faced the other end and turned a male .875" spigot. I turned it a snug fit in the back of my bronze disk.






Now the glue!  I bonded the close fitting bronze disk to the glue chuck with superglue.





Now I mounted the glue chuck and part into a collet and turned the OD. The glue chuck is 1.4" OD and I was taking .100" on diameter with ease.
The fianl size was 1.1875"









I intended to machine the spigots like Pete did, but I blew the set up on the mill, so I turned the diameter down and brazed some bosses on and then dressed it with the mill.  The glue chuck is nice as I can put it in the lathe or the mill directly and have at it!

I need to make up some toolmakers buttons to locate the bores for the gears.....I will be using a angle plate much like the one Ramon used to turn his crankpins on his current build.  
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=18523.90











Dave


----------



## steamer (Jun 17, 2012)

Oh I forgot to mention.

A superglue chuck will come apart if you heat the part to about 400F with a torch. The residue comes off with some acetone and maybe some light scraping with a razor blade and you can then do it again.

I obviously removed the part from the chuck to braze the spigots on.  I then pickled the part and cleaned it and remounted it to the chuck and cleaned it up on the mill and then wire brushed it in the lathe.

It needs ( 8 ) 2-56 clearance holes and the gear bores done still. The holes will be done in the mill, while I think I'm going to bore the gear locations on the lathe.

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jun 17, 2012)

steamer  said:
			
		

> OK,  I foraged around my scrap bin



Better, Thank you!!!


That collet chuck is sweeeeeet!!


----------



## steamer (Jun 17, 2012)

That's my old Bison Chuck that I bought way back when I had my Atlas...Bison had just come out with it and the price was still reasonable.  It also has an index ring on it with a dedicated index latch system.
It can be set to a specific position for ZERO rotationally. It has 24 positions.





I have modified the backing plate to make it adjust true also.

Dave


----------



## bezalel2000 (Jun 18, 2012)

Hi Dave

 scratch.gif

What's the unfinished ply wood tennis racket for, between the chuck and headstock?

Bez


----------



## steamer (Jun 18, 2012)

Bezalel  said:
			
		

> Hi Dave
> 
> scratch.gif
> 
> ...



So WHEN you drop the chuck..( you will drop the chuck) it drops on the plywood and not the ways which will leave a ding of shame!
 ;D

Dave


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## mu38&Bg# (Jun 18, 2012)

I think he's asking about the aluminum plate that is part of your indexing arrangement. 

Greg


----------



## steamer (Jun 18, 2012)

That's actually steel! It's part of the indexing attachment.  It's the mount for the index pin assembly.  It mountes on the OD of the front bearing housing with a circular clamp.  I roughed it out and never finished the edges as I wanted to see how it worked first...it worked great!....but I never took it off to clean it up! :big:

Guess I gotta now....

Dave


----------



## steamer (Jun 19, 2012)

Ordered the pump gears today....I think I'm going to take a page from GailNM playbook make some cutters, and cut some gears for the rest of it.  My son wants to cut gears!











Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (Jun 19, 2012)

steamer  said:
			
		

> Ordered the pump gears today....I think I'm going to take a page from GailNM playbook make some cutters, and cut some gears for the rest of it. My son wants to cut gears!
> 
> Dave



I have always wanted to learn to cut gears. Post some pix of your setup's if you think about it.


----------



## steamer (Jun 19, 2012)

Will do Steve! I've cut gears before, and it's mostly tedious....not real technical
I'm going to make the cutters for this via Ivan Law's book and GailsNM spreadsheet for cutter dimensions.

You'll notice that the gear listed isn't 40 but 35.  A 40 tooth gear falls within the range of the cutter dimensions show, however, the cutter is a standard endmill size.  Which makes life easier.

Due time....and I get to use my Aciera in anger....can't wait!

Dave


----------



## steamer (Jun 19, 2012)

I'm going to use Wheeltapers basic setup to make the cutters.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=10449.0

Dave


----------



## tel (Jun 19, 2012)

stevehuckss396  said:
			
		

> I have always wanted to learn to cut gears. Post some pix of your setup's if you think about it.



I've done a little photo essay *here.*


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jun 19, 2012)

Then what, swing it around like a flycutter only level?


----------



## steamer (Jun 19, 2012)

Just the way the Tel shows it only it would be a single point cutter.

Dave


----------



## Ken I (Jun 20, 2012)

You can work wonders with a single point.






This regashing the busted tramming gear on my BP (Standard knockoff).

Ken


----------



## steamer (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks for that Ken! There's a way to get it done!


Special thanks To GailNM for creating and sharing that spreadsheet!
 :bow: :bow: :bow:


Steve, here's another set up I did to make a bunch of metric transposition gears for the Logan.....I still have a few sets 
My mill is set for horizontal operation. It's a VanNorman #12 I'm using a commercial involute gear cutter.
I'm cutting 6 gears at once.






Dave


----------



## vcutajar (Jun 20, 2012)

Making gears is something I need to learn. Will be looking over your shoulder.

Vince


----------



## swilliams (Jun 20, 2012)

Dave - what's coming across to me here is that it's not primarily about how you're enthused about what you're building, it's that you're enthused about being out in the shop building something. Hope you get what I mean. Anyway that's the way I like things.

Steve


----------



## steamer (Jun 20, 2012)

Hi Steve,

I enjoy the shop a great deal. Right now I need to get my SB9 done, but I need to wait until I can send the bed out for grinding.....additionally, it's been a long project...I need a little "instant gratification".  I go into the shop, I set up for a plan...I execute the plan....I get a result....It's a nice break while I sort out the finances for the bed regrind.

More importantly, my Son is pretty excited about making an engine....he probably doesn't have the patience to see it all the way through...but he'll jump in and out ....and he'll learn something.

Dave


----------



## Don1966 (Jun 20, 2012)

Dave glad to see that your son is interested all I had were girls and I have been trying to get my Grandsons interest but with video games and ball games after school I don't see them enough to get them interested. They do love my engines and want me to run them time to time,but that is about as far as it goes. Maybe when they get older that will change there are only in ther teens now. I am still following with interest.

Don


----------



## steamer (Jun 20, 2012)

Thanks Don,

I wanted to start teaching my son on the SB.....but we'll need to manage on the Logan.....it's a powerful lathe and a bit intimidating to a 9 year old...
Dave


----------



## swilliams (Jun 21, 2012)

Sounds like a great thing to do with your son Dave. He'll be really chuffed when it fires up!


----------



## steamer (Jun 23, 2012)

The weekend has arrived!  

OK on the docket is a bit of clean up in the shop...a breakfast run for the family....and a oil pump for a Wallaby!

I spent some time thinking about how to do this but Westbury's way is the best I think.

I will need to make up some toolmakers buttons and a plug gage.

Stay tuned

Dave


----------



## steamer (Jun 23, 2012)

OK good time in the shop today!

Here we go.
drilling the various holes including the holes for the toolmakers buttons.




The toolmakers buttons are small bushings .219 in diameter with a .156 bore.  I turned up two of them , one 3/8" long and one 1/4" long.  That allows me to sweep the long one in before the short one.

Next, I removed the body from the steel machining fixture and bonded it to a .875" Diameter embryonic front housing. To indicate the interface between the two parts, I needed to interpose a piece of paper between the two parts.. but I needed to make sure it was of a consistant diameter so that it didn't interfer with the alignment of the two parts.  So I made a punch....only took a few minutes....a wack with a hammer and voila!










I then bonded the body to the housing blank with super glue with the paper in between. Now we get the parts together on the fixture





I then put the toolmakers buttons on and I aligned the the assembly in the horizontal plane on the surface plate.  





The toolmakers buttons are mounted with 2-56 screws and represent the axis of the two gears. It is aligned with a micrometer to get the exact distance apart for the two bores.  The method then is to tram in each button to the axis of the lathe and lock it in on the face plate and then bore to size and depth.

I will then move the fixture on the plate to align the other shorter toolmakers button with the axis of the lathe, lock it in , remove the toomakers button and bore the second hole.  This is a very old school way to make this part , but it's very accurate and repeatable.





that's where I've left off for tonight....we'll get more done tomorrow.

Dave


----------



## steamer (Jun 24, 2012)

OK we got some more done today!

The housing was bored as was the front bearing housing all in one set up.  The gears are ever so slightly tight. I'll need to reduce the pitch diameter a few tenths with brasso compound while I spin the gears against eachother in the lathe.. I have blow by blow pictures but I need to get a SD card reader.  I took a shot with the droid...though not as good quality....here it is for now






Fussy little part Pete! :bow: ....but I think I got it licked.....this and the crank where the parts I had the most apprehension about...so I'm chuffed that I'm off to a good start.

Dave


----------



## metalmad (Jun 24, 2012)

Looking great Buddy
now all you need is an Engine to hang it on :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer (Jun 24, 2012)

and a shot of the parts together.






I'm putting the accessory drives togther so that I can machine all the bearing locations in one shot and know the positions.  After the pump comes all the gears and the pump drive bushing.
Then I can machine the housing and gear case cover in the same set up again using toolmakers buttons to locate all the gears. All on the faceplate.

Dave


----------



## Don1966 (Jun 24, 2012)

Dave I had read about toolmakers button but really did not know exactly how to go about using them. Thanks for the documentation and photos. The oil pump is looking good, I would say you are on your way. 

Don


----------



## steamer (Jun 25, 2012)

Oh I've seen some of your builds Don.....I should do as well!
 :bow:

Dave


----------



## steamer (Jun 25, 2012)

Hey Pete, do you know what kind of steel your gears were made out of?

Dave


----------



## metalmad (Jun 25, 2012)

Hi Dave
I recon Tel could make you up some real sweet ones if you ask him nice :big:
Pete


----------



## steamer (Jun 25, 2012)

Oh I know "Tel-ster" he can do that for sure! Hell he's Aussie...he can do anything!.....but my son wants a shot at helping me cut gears....who am I to say no to that!

I want to make the pinion out of 1144SP steel and the gears out of bronze.

I need to see if my 0-1 steel pinion cutters will stand up to 1144SP....I'll see if I can make a threading tool and do an experiment this week. If it will cut a 1/2" bolt ...it should hold up long enough to cut a 20 tooth pinion.  I figuire I can gash the pinion teeth first with a slitting saw. The bronze gear shouldn't be an issue to do fron the solid.

Thanks!

Dave


----------



## gbritnell (Jun 25, 2012)

The pump looks great Dave. My home made drill rod cutters have held up quite well even cutting drill rod. I don't know how long they would last but I have made 2-3 parts with no trouble. 
George


----------



## steamer (Jun 25, 2012)

Thanks George! Good to hear that ...the pinions are only 20 tooth and .25" long...so I may worrying for nothing

Dave


----------



## ref1ection (Jun 25, 2012)

Good looking start to the engine. I haven't had a chance to follow much on here recently but just read this from the start. Great tutorial on the use of faceplates.

Ray


----------



## steamer (Jun 25, 2012)

Thanks for the interest Ray! It's not the only way to do it or even perhaps the best way.....but the prefered way in my shop with the tools at hand.  One of the goals of this thread is to explore that.

Thanks again!

Dave


----------



## vcutajar (Jun 26, 2012)

Dave

Did you buy or make the gears of the pump?

Vince


----------



## steamer (Jun 26, 2012)

Hi Vince,

I bought them. they're 10 tooth 32 DP 20PA pinions.  They don't make very low tooth count cutters commercially, and considering these gears were about $5 each....I just bought them

I got them from Stock Drive Products.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar (Jun 26, 2012)

At that price it's not worth doing them. Locally I do not have that luxury. So my next project is to learn how to do gears.

Vince


----------



## ProdEng (Jun 26, 2012)

Vince, most people will ship overseas, it's always worth asking. I bought my mill from a supplier in USA and he put it in the post! The cost with shipping was $1200 while the Australian dealer wanted $2900!!!!! Ask me why I rarely buy anything in Australia?

Jan


----------



## vcutajar (Jun 26, 2012)

Jan

I am trying to convince my conscience that I need gear cutters. ;D ;D

Vince


----------



## steamer (Jul 3, 2012)

Too much going on at home and at work!,,,,,Im off for the holiday tomorrow, so I'll try to finish up on the pump....I'll download the camera eventually..... :

Dave


----------



## steamer (Jul 8, 2012)

Well, actually got out in the shop this morning and guess who followed me in! My Son!

We took the bearing pilot down on the oil pump after I lapped in the oil pump gears...just a smig...with some rubbing compound.  He got to drill an ream a hole in a fixture, put on some feed on the cross slide, engage the power feed, and stop it before the bed dial indicator got to zero....all on the 12" Logan!.....with me ever so close to the action mind you.....

Had a really nice time and I taught him a thing or two....sweeeeeeet! woohoo1 th_wav

I took pictures but still need to get a reader. : 

Dave


----------



## Don1966 (Jul 8, 2012)

Glad to here that Dave, that is great. Bet he was excited and anxious. I will be looking for some photos.

Don


----------



## ShedBoy (Jul 8, 2012)

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> I am trying to convince my conscience that I need gear cutters. ;D ;D



Vince
 I got a full set of good involute cutters from this place a a good price. They will also sell singles.
http://www.ctctools.biz/servlet/StoreFront

Shipping is always reasonable and fast

Dave I just wish my son would show some more interest but he is 16 has wheels and a girlfriend so I am way down the list. Great work so far, are you dreading or looking forward to hogging into them block castings?

Brock


----------



## steamer (Jul 8, 2012)

.....Great work so far, are you dreading or looking forward to hogging into them block castings?"

Thanks Brock for the interstest and support!

OH looking forward to it!...work has just been nuts!

I'm trying to get the gear driven accessories all sorted so that I can bore the cam gear cover and block/sump casting all in one go. The oil pump has at least 3 concentric datums superimposed on a two non concentric locational datums spread out over 3 seperate castings...the only way I can figure with my little bird brain is to do the boring all in one go after finding the gear center with a toolmakers button.....which is why I'm doing the pump now.

Dave


----------



## stevehuckss396 (Jul 8, 2012)

steamer  said:
			
		

> 3 concentric datums superimposed on a two non concentric locational datums spread out over 3 seperate castings



Hahaha!! WHAT???????


----------



## metalmad (Jul 8, 2012)

I think he said he installed the wipers before the windscreen, cos a little bird told him too ;D ;D
Pete


----------



## steamer (Jul 8, 2012)

Steve...you laugh, but Pete knows what I'm talking about

The oil pump gear has a hub that extends to the rear of the engine. The od of this hub forms a bearing with the oil sump casting. 
The ID of this same hub forms a bearing with the OD of the pump housing.

The ID of the pump housing is the bearing of the driven pump shaft, driven by a square drive from the end of the gear hub above.  These 3 concentric diameters need to be just that.  Concentric.

The position of these 3 concentric diameters determines the mesh with the crank shaft gear mounted on the upper engine block (casting #2) ....but it doesn't stop there!

The pump sticks out from and is located on the other end by the timing case. The location is dictated by a pilot diameter that is NOT concentric with the previous three!...but eccentric.  So the front end of the pump is located differently. (on casting #3)

I'll have to bore the sump in position using a toolmakers button to locate the gear in proper mesh
Bush this hole with a bearing to suite the gear hub
Install the partially machined timing cover, face it and bore in the same location for the rear pilot bearing of the pump
With a couple of screws, temporarily locate the pump in position using the pilot bearing and sweep in the flange which is eccentric.
Remove the pump
Bore the timing cover in position to the eccentric 7/8" PILOT.
All should line up now.
I didn't design this thing, I'm just building it!

If I designed things that way at work, they'd a fired my A$$ LONG AGO!.....but what do I know! : 






Image from the Hemingway Site......cropped to show this section of the GA....oil pump on lower right






Existing image on Hemingway Site.....references duly noted.

Like I said.....fussy little part.......
You'll notice the bushing on the crankshaft to form an oil seal...that positions the timing cover.


Dave


----------



## swilliams (Jul 9, 2012)

Still following along here Dave. Question about the oil pump. Does it just pump oil through the crankshaft, or does oil go to the gudgeon pins and even up through the push rods? Good to hear your son is getting into it.

Cheers
Steve


----------



## steamer (Jul 9, 2012)

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the interest and support! The pump feeds the mains, the rod big ends, and the timing gear idler shaft, but not the wrist pins. 

Dave


----------



## steamer (Jul 9, 2012)

I used a very inexpensive and effective home made reamer for the pump parts.  I was going to write it up, but I already did! :big:.......guess I type too much

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=9854.0

The reamer and D-bit I used on the pump where made from .125" HSS reamer blank....but the method is the same.

Dave


----------



## swilliams (Jul 9, 2012)

Thanks for the answer Dave, having never built an enclosed crank type engine it's good to get across some of the detail.

Steve


----------



## steamer (Jul 14, 2012)

OK finally I have some pictures.....






This is the front hub being bored before I reamed it with a short D-bit





Here the front hub is mounted on a mini face plate I used before with a 1/8" mandrel down the center. I reamed a hole in the piece of steel in the tailstock to the same size as the HSS mandrel. I then held the other end with this "center" while I fixed the front housing to the mini faceplate with superglue.  Worked great and now the OD of the housing is dead concentric with the reamed hole.










Here I applied some heat and removed the housing from the faceplate.






Here I've mounted it in a collet and trimmed the housing to length.

Dave


----------



## ProdEng (Jul 14, 2012)

Very clever and secure fixture that's gone straight into my notebook  I like the glue, the support pin and the tailstock bush, hope I can remember when I need them!

Jan


----------



## steamer (Jul 14, 2012)

Thanks Jan!

Thank Bill Smith, Master Clockmaker for that one....it helps to read up on all kinds of apsects of machining....not just model engines.  He points out that most small holes drift....and to get the OD concentric with the ID, you have to machine it on an arbor to dial it out.

Dave


----------



## vcutajar (Jul 15, 2012)

Dave

Is this similar to the wax chuck? Or am I confusing things?

Vince


----------



## Blogwitch (Jul 15, 2012)

Dave,

I'm really enjoying watching you build this engine.

What people don't seem to realise that most of ET's engines were built in the 50's, 60's & 70's, using the technology that was available then, so doing the same thing nowadays, should be a lot more simple. But I do like the way you are going 'old school', using buttons etc.

Nowadays, if it was me, it would just be locked down in the milling vice and all co-ordinate drilled using DRO's.

Are we really doing it the right way using modern equipment, or are we just getting lazy?

Don't get me wrong, I came through it all, having to do things how ET used to do it, and I am grateful for the fact, as I know that when a time comes when I don't have the use of modern aids, I will still be able to achieve the same end result, only a lot slower.


John


----------



## Rayanth (Jul 15, 2012)

Bogs, it's my belief that the only "right" way is any way that gets the correct end result.

Whether this is the most satisfying way is up to each individual person. If you're in it for the journey, the "old" way may be the "right" way for you. So long as you can get the correct end result, take whatever way feels right.

For most, these days, time is of the essence, and the "right" way is somewhere between the new and the old, where you still have some complicated setups to get the satisfaction of the old, but use some of the newer stuff to save time.

- Ryan


----------



## steamer (Jul 15, 2012)

Hey Bogs,

If I had DRO's trust me I'd use them. ;D  Every machine I own is for the most part old, and for the second part worn out.

The reason I'm using the buttons is because, like you, that's how I learned it originally, and it's the only real way I can with what I have.  Furthermore, I still think if your splitting thous with multiple parts like this, they need to be made up "in situ".

It's a bit ironic isn't it though...I've recently designed and built some very high end modern machine tools, but my mill is 60 years old :big:

My "go to" lathe was made in the 70's so it's the youngin in the shop...I think you guys know about my other lathes.

Additionally, as Ryan has stated, I like working this way....it's logical to me.

You don't need a lot of equipment, but you do have to think about it a bit to navigate a path to the other side.
I' guess I'm about 50 years out of touch....equipment wise...but I know I can "twiddle the knobs" on just about anything you throw in front of me.....and I'm not entirely sure a DRO would do these up any better "piece part" wise due to the stack up error between the parts made one at a time.

About 20 years ago I designed and made a punch die for for a medical product made of teflon felt. The die cut the felt into 10 strips and simultaneously pierced the strips with 120 .035 holes. The blank was about the size of a business card. I used a mill with a DRO to drill the 120 holes into a stripper plate to peel the blank off the piercing needles.  I had a DRO, and foolishly I zeroed it after every hole....the distance was wierd and would have required a lot of math to keep up with the hole count....
Needless to say by the time I got to the other end of a row of holes....it was completely screwed because of the repeatative .0002" error per zeroing of the DRO....make it again!....make up a position table....DON"T rezero the DRO! :big:

I've heard the definition of Experience is surviving all of your mistakes! :big:

Anyway, thanks for looking in on this thread Ryan and Bogs, and your comments resonate. I'm doing it this way in my shop because that's what I have......I would love a Bridgeport with a 3 axis trac on it though : :anybody? ;D

Dave


----------



## steamer (Jul 15, 2012)

vcutajar  said:
			
		

> Dave
> 
> Is this similar to the wax chuck? Or am I confusing things?
> 
> Vince


 :big: Yes absolutely the same thing...just different sticky stuff!.....Tony bird uses those a lot! I use crazy glue because it's convenient.

Another Bill Smith tip for small parts.....super glue chucks.....Hanging on otherwise would require it held between centers (ET's suggestion) I think as there is not much to hang on too....even if you leave stock on the large face for chucking.  It's kind of a awkward part

But one of the premises of this thread to to talk about other ways of doing it.....how would you do it ? 

Dave


----------



## Tin Falcon (Jul 15, 2012)

repeatative .0002" error per zeroing of the DRO....make it again!....make up a position table....DON"T rezero the DRO! 
I too do not have DROs in my shop. Some of the shops I worked at did have them. 
When I whenrt to USAF teck scool the machines did not have dros. 
I personaly feel it sacriligious to put a DRO on my 1937 souith bend lathe. It is a piece of history. 
And for the price of DRO s for the mini lathe I decided cnc was a better option.

as far as rounding errors I found out about those with alibre cad. I tried using 1/16 .0625 grid pattern when you get to the end of a 6" block you do not have 6".
Tin


----------



## steamer (Jul 15, 2012)

I personaly feel it sacriligious to put a DRO on my 1937 souith bend lathe. It is a piece of history."


Well yes and no........

If Nat Herreshoff...the "Wizard of Bristol" a very famous boat builder who always pushed his designs to the limit of strength and weight 100 years ago had carbon fiber and epoxy...he'd a used it. :big:

If Lindeburg had jet engines.....he probably had used them to cross the Atlantic......

Though I am very much in touch with the history of industry, and a great proponent of it's preservation, if your doing it as a job....the new ways are certainly far easier!....

At the end of the day...it's the gray matter between the ears that gets the job done.

Dave


----------



## Maryak (Jul 15, 2012)

Tin Falcon  said:
			
		

> as far as rounding errors I found out about those with alibre cad. I tried using 1/16 .0625 grid pattern when you get to the end of a 6" block you do not have 6".
> Tin



Tin,

If that is the case then your CAD program is not set up properly. The size of an item is determined by the level of accuracy to which the program and drawing are set. Most are capable of 0.00000000000001" so look in the setup and set not only the size which can be anything from 1 unit to the previously stated fraction but also the level of accuracy used to determine the size. Some programs require 2 complete and separate installations depending on whether your trying to draw in imperial or metric. 

Hope this helps and apologies to Dave for the hijack.

Best Regards
Bob


----------



## steamer (Jul 15, 2012)

No worries Mate!.....Like I said ...different ways of doing it...

Dave


----------



## chucketn (Jul 15, 2012)

RonGinger  said:
			
		

> Dave, are you going to show Rollies faceplate setup fixture? To me that is the whole secret to using a face plate.



Though I may never build a "Wallaby" I am very much enjoying this thread.I learn so much from these builds and thank you Steamer for taking the time to document it. Great job.
Started from the begining of the thread this morning and ended up ordering my own copy of Howard Hall's "Workshop Projects".
Where can I find more info on Rollie's faceplate balancing setup? Google only brings up this thread and one reference to the NEMEs newsletter that mentions it.

Chuck


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## steamer (Jul 15, 2012)

I think Harold Hall's book has a set of plans that describe the fixture appropriately. I don't think Rollie ever made plans...he just built one with the stuff he had.

Dave


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## Don1966 (Jul 15, 2012)

Hi Dave, still following along here in the shadows. I love the mini face plate such a ingenuous idea and a simple one. I believe I would have a lot of trouble making the oil pump, but I like your method. 
I don't believe I would have to much trouble converting my old lathe to DRO. A piece of history is fine if you want it just to look at. But using it I would really like to do my job better if possible. There are people that build things the old way and with old tools, just to make it the way our forefathers did. But this is a hobby and simplifying things make it more enjoyable to me.

Don


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## steamer (Jul 15, 2012)

What ever it takes Don.

Dave


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## vcutajar (Jul 24, 2012)

Hey Dave

Re-found this thread and subscribed to it again.

Vince


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## Don1966 (Aug 3, 2012)

Hi Dave are we still working on the wallaby been missing you pal.

Don


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## idahoan (Aug 3, 2012)

The pictures are gone; did Steamer bail too?

Oh well things will get better.

Dave


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## steamer (Aug 5, 2012)

I will be continueing this thread elsewhere!

Dave

Steamer   all rights reserved


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## rhitee93 (Aug 5, 2012)

I'm  sorry to hear that Dave.

Best wishes to ya...

(Upon review, I realized that this my look sarcastic given recent events, but I am being sincere)


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