# Select 816 B Lathe Acquired



## Danuzzo (Jul 12, 2020)

Recently purchased a used Select 816 B lathe. I have attached lots of photos. According to the spec sheet that came with it, the swing is 8 3/8", distance between centers is 16", weight is 275 lbs (don't know if that includes the legs and motor, but it felt like it did not). Hardened and ground bed ways. Also, taper roller bearings. I hope to be able to locate a manual for it or a similar lathe. Per my research, it was made in Taiwan around late 1970's or 1980.

 I have not confirmed it yet; but, the spindle thread appears to be 1 1/2 -8 with, I think, may be a MT#3.

Came with a 4 jaw chuck, 3 jaw chuck (both made in England), faceplate, live center,  tool holders steady rest, follow rest, tool bits,and various other items, It even came with a milling attachment that may be aftermarket that Have not yet tried to see if it fits.

Runs very nicely, back gear too. However, the spindle bearings appear to be heating up. Don't know if the heat is excessive or not. Looks like the bearings have grease zerk fittings that were surrounded with grease when I got the machine, so I added some bearing grease.

I hope to be able to find a manual for it or for a similar type lathe. Any help would be appreciated. Also, any input on this lathe or similar lathe would be appreciated, particularly with regard to the spindle bearings getting hot. If and when I need to replace the spindle tapered roller bearings, is it easy to find tapered roller bearings that would be an exact match in size?


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 12, 2020)

Couple more photos of the milling attachment and other items. Anyone know what that item is next to the milling attachment? Looks like 2 blocks with a thumbscrew that slide on round rails.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 14, 2020)

I was really hopeful that someone being familiar with my lathe or a similar one would have responded or with the spindle bearings. Oh well, maybe one of these days someone will. In the meantime, I am very pleased with it's performance. I did neglect to mention that it has power cross feed as well. Used that today for some facing operations.


----------



## Apprentice707 (Jul 14, 2020)

Hello Danuzzo, This looks to be a useful lathe and very substantial. You may find this url useful. 

"Select" & "David" Lathes  They sell manuals but is also a very interesting site.

Cheers

B


----------



## comstock-friend (Jul 14, 2020)

The same Taiwan factory probably made the same or very similar lathes for Enco, Jet and other distributors. So you can expand your search criteria. My Enco is very similar but is a 12"/36". I think the closest I got to a manual was for the Jet.

Your Select also looks like an Asian copy of the 9" South Bend, so for operation and function (not parts) the venerable SB 'How to Run a Lathe' will be useful.



			South Bend Lathe Works - Publication Reprints - How To Run A Lathe 55th Edition | VintageMachinery.org
		


John


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 14, 2020)

Thank's, John and Apprentice707. Apprentice, I have been to that website and found it very helpful; but, I did not know they sold manuals. I will look further. I will also look at the site you linked, John. I appreciate the responses very much.


----------



## RonW (Jul 14, 2020)

Danuzzo said:


> I was really hopeful that someone being familiar with my lathe or a similar one would have responded or with the spindle bearings. Oh well, maybe one of these days someone will. In the meantime, I am very pleased with it's performance. I did neglect to mention that it has power cross feed as well. Used that today for some facing operations.


If you go to www.lathes.uk and look in the "machine tool archive" your lathe is listed with a history. I didn't look further but I would not be surprised if Dave doesn't have a manual for it as a PDF. Material is .lastly free but he likes a donation from time to time. Have a look but be prepared to spend a lot of time " drooling" over what's there.  A real mine of information.
RonW


----------



## Apprentice707 (Jul 14, 2020)

You could also try www.pdfdrive.net It is good for all sorts of manuals and books. all free and legal.


----------



## J Harp (Jul 14, 2020)

I think that milling attachment is an Atlas product. It might need to be modified to fit your lathe.


----------



## packrat (Jul 14, 2020)

Thanks for posting that site www.pdfdrive.net it is very good...


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 14, 2020)

J Harp said:


> I think that milling attachment is an Atlas product. It might need to be modified to fit your lathe.



May very well be. Color is a little different than the Select lathe. I been too busy trying out my new to me lathe to have time to try the milling attachment. I'll get around to it one of these days.


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 15, 2020)

I stand to be corrected- as I'm only a humble mortal and not an engineer( whatever that might be)

Looking at Lathes..co. UK- which has better photographs, there TWO possibilities.
The first is that 'something' can be slotted on thee lathe's top slide as there are no Tee slots on the boring table. On that, there seems to be a spigot- rather like the one on the Myford Super 7. The ML7 has a tiddly peg! 
So there is provision for a dedicated vertical slide with a spigot rather than a 'couple of tee nuts'
It doesn't exist and the alternative is ' something similar' and there is a suggestion which I cannot argue- from an Atlas lathe.

Actually, an English firm in the Lake District in Troutbeck ( G.P.Potts) made a set something similar.
The First bit was a pair of simple 'drilling and boring heads to be fitted to either a vertical slide or the top slide or boring table and the propulsion from a clock/watchmaker's set of pulleys. I have Two.
The next was a a tubular rise and fall gadget which could act as a vertical slide and bore/drill.  I gave mine away to a friend who was a clockmaker and is now in his middle 90's and final one iis a  complete rise and fall slide- with a Myford slotting and a single division plate and obvious;y a Myford spindle.

There is one advertised at £295 now. As with most things, the company no longer exists and the necessary castings were available  from Woking Precision Models( A;ommg with Westbury castings) and it is no longer vtrading but I think that Hemingwaykits  has the patterns.

Me, well I have a pre-war Perfecto vertical slide which fits my present Myford and my Sieg C4 but I have also a Myford vertical slide which, among other tasks, will take a GH Thomas small dividing head which has TWO Acme threads to do any number not immediately available from the 3 Division plates- and- natually, the single hole division plate.

That's the story- about what is possible to our original poster. I wish him well.


Norman


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 15, 2020)

Hi Danuzzo,

I'm surprised that no one has pointed out to you that the headstock bearings are intended to be oiled, not greased !  Using grease will cause the bearings to get hot simply because of the churning of the grease in them.

If you have the manual it should tell you how to adjust the bearings and what to lubricate them with.  They are not cheap either !


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 15, 2020)

BaronJ said:


> Hi Danuzzo,
> 
> I'm surprised that no one has pointed out to you that the headstock bearings are intended to be oiled, not greased !  Using grease will cause the bearings to get hot simply because of the churning of the grease in them.
> 
> If you have the manual it should tell you how to adjust the bearings and what to lubricate them with.  They are not cheap either !



Thanks. Yes, I am aware of the great debate between oil and grease for the spindle bearings, most going with oil. However, I do not have the manual, and there are grease (I guess they could be for oil) zerk fittings in the headstock on each end of the spindle. There are numerous oil fillers on other parts of the lathe, outside of the headstock. Also, all the evidence I observed appeared that the bearings were greased on this used lathe, not oiled. There is a leakage of excess grease that came from the inboard and outboard spindle ends outside and inside the headstock.

If oil is the proper lubricant on this lathe, is there any way to switch over without taking the spindle off and cleaning all he grease?


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 15, 2020)

J Harp said:


> I think that milling attachment is an Atlas product. It might need to be modified to fit your lathe.



You are in fact correct. Good call. The model number is 10-500 (actually has 10-501 and 10-502 stamped on it). I looked it up, and low and behold, it comes back as an Atlas. I may just end up selling it.


----------



## clockworkcheval (Jul 15, 2020)

The item next to the milling attachment looks like an item we made at our horological workshop as part of a copying attachment. We load the item with springs and it pushes the slide (spindle removed) to the sheet-metal form at the back of the slide. However I do not see the other elements of such an attachment, like the support for the sheet-metal form.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 15, 2020)

Danuzzo said:


> Thanks. Yes, I am aware of the great debate between oil and grease for the spindle bearings, most going with oil. However, I do not have the manual, and there are grease (I guess they could be for oil) zerk fittings in the headstock on each end of the spindle. There are numerous oil fillers on other parts of the lathe, outside of the headstock. Also, all the evidence I observed appeared that the bearings were greased on this used lathe, not oiled. There is a leakage of excess grease that came from the inboard and outboard spindle ends outside and inside the headstock.
> 
> If oil is the proper lubricant on this lathe, is there any way to switch over without taking the spindle off and cleaning all he grease?



Hi Danuzzo,
I wouldn't call it a debate   Some manufacturers recommend grease.  However you should use what ever the lathe manufacturer says.

As far as cleaning the grease out without stripping the bearings out and washing them in a solvent, I would try and pump some oil into them and hope that it pushes the grease out, probably into the gearbox.  At least it will thin the grease down and allow the spindle to rotate more freely.  Whether it will clean them is impossible to say.

The problem with grease in the spindle bearings is because of the relatively low rotational speed, the grease gets churned and forced into any gap or void where it behaves like a solid adding rolling resistance as the rollers or balls try to climb over the grease.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 18, 2020)

Update: My spindle pulley is loose on the spindle, as if the bore of the pulley is larger than the spindle shaft.. No way to make it tight from my attempts. Set screw does nothing. There is no key slot for the pulley, and it appears the only thing holding it in place is the back gear.

So, in light of the very warm running bearings and this loose pulley, I decided needed to remove the spindle. What I discovered is that the spindle measures 1.575" OD where the pulley goes, while the pulley bore is 1.625", a difference of .050". No bushing of any kind, nor any bushing referenced in the parts schematic. Is it possible that it was designed this way? This obviously explains the play between the pulley and the spindle.

I got the rear bearing out (came right out) Front bearing still on. Both races still on; but, it looks like I might be able to pry off  the races due to a little space (about 3/16" behind them between the bearings and the headstock casting).

Never replaced bearings before, and any comments or advice I can get would be would be appreciated. Here are some photos.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 18, 2020)

Hi Danuzzo,

Sorry I mistakenly thought you were referring to the headstock bearings.

At least you can now get at them to clean and re lubricate them with oil.

That pulley should be a good fit on the shaft.


----------



## ShopShoe (Jul 18, 2020)

It sounds like someone wanted to repair or assemble that lathe and just rounded up some parts to get the job done.

I am not familiar with that machine, but can you get the bearings races out by driving or pressing from the back side, preferably with a brass or other tool softer than the other metals?

Good luck and please let us know how it all works out.

--ShopShoe


----------



## comstock-friend (Jul 18, 2020)

The pin on the bull gear is the only 'key' to allow the cone pulley to drive the spindle. Pull the pin to engage back gears, push the pin into the cone pulley hole with the back gears out for direct drive. The cone pulley should be a rolling fit on the spindle, usually bronze bushed. Maybe the previous owner ran it in back gear all the time and did not oil the pulley. The 'set screw that does nothing' is for oiling the cone pulley to spindle when running in back gear.

Again, this is a South Bend clone, instructions would be in HTRAL.

John


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 18, 2020)

BaronJ said:


> Hi Danuzzo,
> 
> Sorry I mistakenly thought you were referring to the headstock bearings.
> 
> ...



You were correct. I was initially referring to the bearings; but, when I noticed all the play in the pulley to spindle fit, I decided I needed to tear it down to have a look.

Is it possible that the loose fit may be designed for proper engagement of the back gear? Like I say, the parts diagram does not show any kind of bushing. It certainly is not worn. The surface is too regular. Made of what appears to be cast iron by the way.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 18, 2020)

Shopshoe, cannot get at it from the back. It would have to be from the front in the cavity between the race and the headstock casting. You can kind of see the cavity in the last photo. I will keep you all posted. going to the bearing supply house this morning.

John, the bearing house has bronze bushings. Will see if they have any the right size. What does HTRAL stand for?


----------



## comstock-friend (Jul 18, 2020)

HTRAL: The previously South Bend book "How to Run a Lathe". The cone pulley needs to get oiled very time you run the lathe in back gear. South Bend later changed to a special grease that lasted about a half year because they were seeing damage from folks not oiling the spindle and/or back gear shaft. Lots of discussion of this on South Bend forums such as groups.io, or the one on Practical Machinist.

From your photos, looks like roughness inside the cone pulley bore from lack of lubrication.

Your roller bearings don't look too bad. I'd leave them alone, try oil lube and proper preload. I have several old late 1940's horizontal mills with similar bearings. Not nearly as nice looking as yours but still running fine and cool with proper preload...

John


----------



## WOB (Jul 18, 2020)

Danuzzo said:


> Thanks. Yes, I am aware of the great debate between oil and grease for the spindle bearings, most going with oil. However, I do not have the manual, and there are grease (I guess they could be for oil) zerk fittings in the headstock on each end of the spindle. There are numerous oil fillers on other parts of the lathe, outside of the headstock. Also, all the evidence I observed appeared that the bearings were greased on this used lathe, not oiled. There is a leakage of excess grease that came from the inboard and outboard spindle ends outside and inside the headstock.
> 
> If oil is the proper lubricant on this lathe, is there any way to switch over without taking the spindle off and cleaning all he grease?



The lack of sight glasses on the spindle bearing housings makes me think the intended lube is grease.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 18, 2020)

WOB said:


> The lack of sight glasses on the spindle bearing housings makes me think the intended lube is grease.



Do you mean "Drip Oiler's"  if so not all lathes have them !  My Myford doesn't unlike the previous model.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 18, 2020)

Alright, went to the bearing house and they recommended a machinist who I met with today at his shop. He said the bearings looked good. He concluded that the cast iron of the pulley had a built in collar on the outboard end that had worn out, and that a bronze bushing had to be inserted. I convinced him to do it while I watched.

He had a nice Graziano lathe that he bored about 1.5 inches into the pulley where the shoulder was originally. He then made a bronze bushing that he press fit. He also cleaned up the spindle with a light cut in the area that makes contact with the pulley bushing. He said to keep that oiled through the set screw in the pulley because lack of oil is probably what caused the wear in the first place. That Graziano and the machinist were impressive.

I cleaned up the bearings. I will reinstall everything after I get the rear motor drive pulley shaft in the headstock off to replace the belts, and then put it all back together cognizant of properly adjusting the preload. I certainly hope it goes smoothly.

Thank's everyone for your help.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 19, 2020)

Hi Danuzzo,

Sounds like you are well on the path to getting the lathe back in action !  Lubrication is very important, too much is far better than too little.  I make a point of lubricating everything that needs oil every time I use the lathe, which often can be twice a day.

I thought that I'd made a comment earlier the the pictures of the bearings showed that they looked good, anyway you've now had it confirmed.

As far as preload is concerned, when you have the spindle re-assembled, adjust the spindle so that it rotates freely without any play, then carefully increase the tension until you feel it just start to tighten.  Stop at this point, lubricate the bearings and run the spindle for ten minutes and check that they are not hot.  Just warm is about right.  If they are still cold then add another sixth of a turn and recheck.  You might find that you have to do this two or three times as the oil get distributed and the bearings settle.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 19, 2020)

BaronJ. I am very pleased that your assessment of the bearings was correct. The smaller rear bearing was a little over $40.00. Unknown as to the front bearing which is larger since it was never removed; but, it would have been more money. 

Now that I have taken it apart one, it should not be too difficult to replace the bearings at a later date, if necessary. The only issue was going to be removal of the races from the headstock, which I am fortunate i did not have to do. 

I will continue to update this thread. Thank's, again


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 19, 2020)

Got all the belts off.  Will buy new ones tomorrow in hopes it will all be back up and running tomorrow.

Another issue. As you can see in my initial post, the 3 jaw chuck only has the outside set of jaws. Are currently available inside jaws interchangeable? In other words, if I find jaws for a 5" chuck, should they fit on my chuck, or are they individually tailored to a specific brand?


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 20, 2020)

Danuzzo said:


> Another issue. As you can see in my initial post, the 3 jaw chuck only has the outside set of jaws. Are currently available inside jaws interchangeable? In other words, if I find jaws for a 5" chuck, should they fit on my chuck, or are they individually tailored to a specific brand?



As you will see, the jaws are numbered 1, 2 and 3 but will also have a set of numbers identifying with the internal scroll inside the chuck. So I seriously doubt that you can get a matching internal set.
I may be wrong but it looks like a new chuck which has to be fitted to a backplate which fits the thread on the spindle 'nose'

In any event, the probability is that the chuck is worn for any number of reasons and should be replaced to give you a reasonable accuracy in the future. There is a lot of ballyhoo about re grinding chuck jaws.
As far as my experience goes, regrinding will accuracy at ONE dimension.
I haven't dismissed the possibility of having 'soft' jaws. They have to be recut generally but are most useful where extreme accuracy is required. 
Theoretically, I have two self centring chucks for my lathe- different makers-- and the jaw sets are NOT interchangeable.  I tend to have one kitted 'each way'- and then I have a most useful self centring FOUR jaw chuck- on both my lathes. Again, I have soft jaws for my Sieg C4 but have been unsuccessful for either Myford chucks.

I wish that I could be more helpful

Norman


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 20, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> As you will see, the jaws are numbered 1, 2 and 3 but will also have a set of numbers identifying with the internal scroll inside the chuck. So I seriously doubt that you can get a matching internal set.
> I may be wrong but it looks like a new chuck which has to be fitted to a backplate which fits the thread on the spindle 'nose'
> 
> In any event, the probability is that the chuck is worn for any number of reasons and should be replaced to give you a reasonable accuracy in the future. There is a lot of ballyhoo about re grinding chuck jaws.
> ...



Hi Norman,
Cromwells are the people to try for soft jaws.  I've got and use some modified ones with great effect.  I'm sure that I posted a picture on here recently.









The original soft jaws have replaceable ones screwed on to them.
So I can just replace them as needed.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 20, 2020)

Danuzzo said:


> Got all the belts off.  Will buy new ones tomorrow in hopes it will all be back up and running tomorrow.
> 
> Another issue. As you can see in my initial post, the 3 jaw chuck only has the outside set of jaws. Are currently available inside jaws interchangeable? In other words, if I find jaws for a 5" chuck, should they fit on my chuck, or are they individually tailored to a specific brand?



Hi Danuzzo,

See my post above !

Jaws soft or otherwise are unique to a particular chuck and manufacturer.  A single manufacturer may use a different scroll across the same size chuck depending upon the accuracy specification.  So you must get the correct ones !  But once you have the dodge that I have used in the pictures above is well worth doing.


----------



## David Shealey (Jul 20, 2020)

I think that oil in those bearings should be avoided, since oil on a spinning part will get all over things around it, would have to keep oil supplied over time, and there is a V-belt in there! Sure do not want oil mist to get to that belt!  Grease is used on probably 80% of the tapered roller bearings in the world.  I have been a machine design engineer for over 40 years, recently retired, and can think of only one instance where I have seen tapered roller bearings in an oiled system. all others were greased.


----------



## David Shealey (Jul 20, 2020)

Looking at the pictures again, that sure looks like a Logan 816 lathe.  You can probably find a manual for that one.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 20, 2020)

Hi Danuzzo,

Have you seen this, follow the pictures down and you will see your lathe.





__





						"Select" & "David" Lathes
					





					www.lathes.co.uk


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 20, 2020)

As to the chuck, it is in very good condition. It is also very accurate. That is why I would like new jaws for it, as opposed to another chuck. The soft jaws idea may be a worthwhile option that I will research further. Thank's BaronJ and Norman.

As to the grease on the spindle bearings, that is what I will continue with because it appears that this lathe was designed with that in  mind. The overheating could have been due (I guess) to all the old gummed up grease around the bearings. We will see.

As to the Logan 816 lathe, I just looked at some photos, and there is a similarity in appearance. Thanks, David. I will certainly delve into this deeper.

As to the link, BaronJ, I checked that out before I bought the lathe, and it helped sway me into buying it. Thanks.


----------



## RonW (Jul 20, 2020)

If your chuck brand can be determined and the scroll/jaw/body numbers are visible and correct, try contacting the manufacturer of the chuck and see if they will produce a set of external jaws for you. I know Pratt and Burnard used to offer this service. Costs nothing to ask.
RonW


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 20, 2020)

RonW said:


> If your chuck brand can be determined and the scroll/jaw/body numbers are visible and correct, try contacting the manufacturer of the chuck and see if they will produce a set of external jaws for you. I know Pratt and Burnard used to offer this service. Costs nothing to ask.
> RonW



No name brand; but, there are numbers. As to manufacturer, only says made in England. Good idea. I will try to find it by the numbers.


----------



## RonW (Jul 20, 2020)

Danuzzo said:


> No name brand; but, there are numbers. As to manufacturer, only says made in England. Good idea. I will try to find it by the numbers.


If it says made in England then it's a fair bet it might be a P&B chuck. Does it have about a 3/4" circular depression in the face where a decal might have been. All my 3 P& B's have this but the decals have long since disappeared. Contact them and supply the numbers. They'll tell you if they can replicate the jaws.
RonW


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 20, 2020)

Danuzzo said:


> As to the chuck, it is in very good condition. It is also very accurate. That is why I would like new jaws for it, as opposed to another chuck. The soft jaws idea may be a worthwhile option that I will research further. Thank's BaronJ and Norman.
> 
> As to the grease on the spindle bearings, that is what I will continue with because it appears that this lathe was designed with that in  mind. The overheating could have been due (I guess) to all the old gummed up grease around the bearings. We will see.
> 
> ...



Hi Danuzzo, Guys,

Please try and find out what the manufacturer intended about lubrication for that spindle bearing.  I don't see any venting for allowing grease to escape, so pumping grease in will eventually fill the voids, and with nowhere for it to escape it will cause the bearing to rapidly heat up.

While high temperature grease is normally used on taper roller bearings used on motor vehicle wheels, there are also strictly allowable amounts and grades of grease that are applied.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 20, 2020)

RonW said:


> If it says made in England then it's a fair bet it might be a P&B chuck. Does it have about a 3/4" circular depression in the face where a decal might have been. All my 3 P& B's have this but the decals have long since disappeared. Contact them and supply the numbers. They'll tell you if they can replicate the jaws.
> RonW



The 600 group of companies now own P&B !   They wanted an arm and both legs for a set of 100 mm jaws for mine.  They also wanted the serial numbers from the chuck ID decal.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 20, 2020)

RonW said:


> If it says made in England then it's a fair bet it might be a P&B chuck. Does it have about a 3/4" circular depression in the face where a decal might have been. All my 3 P& B's have this but the decals have long since disappeared. Contact them and supply the numbers. They'll tell you if they can replicate the jaws.
> RonW



No circular depression at all. There is a # on the face: "6612-1", the jaws also each have the # "016397". The face and the jaws of course also have #'s 1 to 3 on them. One the back of the chuck is where it states "Made in England". It has only 1 key insert on the perimeter.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 20, 2020)

BaronJ, I do think that the grease can escape. There was grease that was escaping on both the front and rear bearings. The reason it can escape on this lathe is that there are no seals. There is just a cover plate, which, if removed, allows one to see the roller ends.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 21, 2020)

I did get it all together today, and even had time to do a few test cuts. Ran nicely. No heating of any significance of the bearings. Maybe the old grease that was solidified was causing the overheating. Runs a little quieter, probably because of the bushing in the pulley and new belts. I really like this lathe .

The only difficult part was getting the large bull gear to move forward to it's position on the spindle. I probably made a mistake by hitting the front of the spindle with a wooden mallet to get it to slide on because I caused the front bearing to hit against the race. Hope I did no harm . Most of the hitting with the mallet, after I realized that I probably should not be hitting from the front, was on the pulley while rotating it to different positions to move the bull gear to its forward position.

If I ever decide to replace the spindle bearings, I will have to figure out a better way, if there is one, to get that bull gear into position.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 21, 2020)

Danuzzo said:


> No circular depression at all. There is a # on the face: "6612-1", the jaws also each have the # "016397". The face and the jaws of course also have #'s 1 to 3 on them. One the back of the chuck is where it states "Made in England". It has only 1 key insert on the perimeter.



Could be a "Herbert" one.  If it is they ceased to be years ago.  You will need to take the jaws with you when you go looking for some replacements.  As I said I got mine from Cromwell's here in the UK, MSC in the US probably has similar parts and if you can get into a branch they will be able to advise.


----------



## comstock-friend (Jul 21, 2020)

To disassemble or re-assemble lathe spindles, don't beat on it but pull instead with a threaded bar and washers/spacers. Here's pulling spindle out of a 9" South Bend. Re-assemble in reverse order...

John


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 21, 2020)

John, Thanks, I will certainly use that method next time. Great method. I wish I would have thought of it before the pounding.


----------



## Danuzzo (Jul 31, 2020)

As an update, I ended up purchasing a new Shars 5" 3 jaw chuck and a backplate. Should arrive next week. The back plate is machined with holes; but, I will have to  cut to fit the shoulder. Chuck comes with 2 sets of jaws.


----------



## Danuzzo (Aug 14, 2020)

comstock-friend said:


> ...
> 
> From your photos, looks like roughness inside the cone pulley bore from lack of lubrication.
> 
> ...



John, I was reviewing this thread, and I noted that I neglected to comment on the fact that you were spot on with your assessment of the worn cone pulley bore and as to the bearings .

I have been keeping the cone pulley lubed with oil. As  I have posted, a bronze bushing was placed in the bore of the cone pulley which is cast iron, and it revolves around the spindle which is some kind of steel. Have you or anyone else heard of any issues of galvanic corrosion between these dissimilar metals in a lathe?

Update as to the chuck, I did get it, and machined the adapter for a good fit. It is a very nice chuck; however, I am somewhat disappointed in it's weight and amount it sticks out, unlike my other chucks. This thing weights about 13lbs, while my other chucks are less than 9lbs. and don't stick out very far. It isn't as easy to lift the new chuck. It turns balanced. I just hope it is not too heavy for my spindle and bearings.


----------

