# Michael Pershinsky's Associated Hired Man



## chads (Feb 6, 2011)

I just wanted to share a few pictures of my first engine. I just have to add an ignition system and see if she runs.


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## Foozer (Feb 6, 2011)

First? I dont even think about something that complicated.

Looks nice,

Robert


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## ZAPJACK (Feb 9, 2011)

That's a great job for a first engine. Look very nice
And like I said "when it's beautifull that's run certainly perfectly"
 :bow: :bow: :bow:


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## steamer (Feb 9, 2011)

Nicely Executed!  Well done!

 :bow:


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## chads (Feb 9, 2011)

Thanks guys. That means a lot to me as I appreciate the talent I have seen on this website.

It is true though that it will only be a masterpiece when it finally runs. I just made up a fuel tank and will be trying it hopefully by the weekend. It has great compression and as far as I can tell the valves are not leaking at all. Fuel and spark should bring it to life. I will post a video of the first run


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## b.lindsey (Feb 9, 2011)

Wow!! That's a beauty chads. What did or will you choose for an ignition system...just curious?

Bill


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## chads (Feb 9, 2011)

I have decided to use a buzz coil and microswitch for now. The micro switch is connected to the negative 12v side and the current draw shouldnt be a problem. 

Here is a picture of the plug I made. If you look closely you can see the nice spark the coil is putting out.


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## b.lindsey (Feb 9, 2011)

Now that's what I call a "looooong reach plug!!" Looking forward to seeing it run as I'm sure you are too 

Bill


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## chads (Feb 9, 2011)

Hahaha. Yeah it is :big: Thanks Bill.


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## Jasonb (Feb 9, 2011)

Excellent job for a first engine.

If it were mine I'd loose the socket head screws and fettle the castings a bit more to remove the mould seams and dymo lables.

J


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## chads (Feb 9, 2011)

I plan on cleaning up the castings when I tear it down for painting. As for the bolts, I agree that hex head would look a lot nicer. My hardware store didnt have anything in 8-32 hex head so I went with socket head. I suppose I could make studs and do it that way also...


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## Maryak (Feb 9, 2011)

Chads,

Beautiful work. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## chads (Feb 11, 2011)

Well, I ran it yesterday. I can get it to start by flipping the flywheels about 2 times, it runs for about 30 seconds then it slowly dies out. I noticed the carb is dripping and the needle is very sensative. I do have the fuel tank slightly above the carb and I'm wondering if it is flooding out. 

Any ideas ???

Short video link

http://s848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/chads8888/?action=view&current=Hired_man.mp4


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## Brian Rupnow (Feb 11, 2011)

Having the carb higher than the carb is definitly a no no on this type of engine where there is no float and needle to shut off the flow of gasoline automatically. I learned that by bitter experience while trying to get my Kerzel engine to run. It would do the same as yours. Start, run good for about 30 deconds then die out. Once I dropped the tank so that when full the top of the fuel was at about the center of the carb height, it fixed my problem. Gas does run down hill, and floods your engine. There is enough vacuum created by the venturi effect in the carb to pull the gas up a bit to the level of the needle valve.---Brian


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## b.lindsey (Feb 11, 2011)

Its ALIVE....nice video chads, even if short. Sounds just like the real thing too. I hope Brian's suggestion will resolve the short run time issue...sure sounds logical to me given the symptoms you describe.

Bill


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## mh121 (Feb 11, 2011)

Chads, nice job on the engine. I am currently almost finished the air cooled version of this engine, I also plan to run it on propane.

MartinH


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## MikeA (Feb 11, 2011)

Hello Chads,

Very impressive first engine! Looks very nicely done and even the short video it sounds great - really like the H&M engines. 

Looking forward to the video of it running without problems.

Best,
Mike


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## chads (Feb 14, 2011)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-AtQxa04ss[/ame]


[youtube=425,350]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-AtQxa04ss[/youtube]


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## jonesie (Feb 14, 2011)

chads,nice job and sounds good. are you going to paint it or powder coat it . again good job jonesie


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## MikeA (Feb 14, 2011)

Hello Chads,

Great job and great sounding motor - congratulations!

Best,
Mike


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## chads (Feb 14, 2011)

I plan on painting it most likely with Rustoleum. I dont have powder coating equipment. I already tore it all down and started cleaning up the castings. 

Chads


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## b.lindsey (Feb 14, 2011)

Thanks for the second video chads...it looks and sounds even better!! Great hit and miss action too from the sound of it.

Regards,
Bill


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## chads (Feb 14, 2011)

Thanks for the replies. I am very proud of this accomplishment. I owe a lot to this forum and the people that gave me suggestions throughout the build. 

So a big *THANKS* to everyone here !!!

Chads


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## nel2lar (Feb 16, 2011)

Chad
Real nice build, congrad. My question is do you have the drawings or did you but it already cast? Again nice!!!!!!!!!!! :bow: :bow
Nelson Collar


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## chads (Feb 16, 2011)

This engine was built from a casting kit. The kit comes with the basic castings however some parts need to be fabricated. The blueprints are included. The casting quality was great. 

Here is where I purchased the kit. Mike is great to deal with too.

The contact is:
Michael Pershinsky
P.O.Box 382
East Petersburg, PA. 17320

Email: [email protected]

The kit was $135.00. He also carries an air cooled version.

Chads


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## swinz (Feb 17, 2011)

Great looking engine, you should be very proud of your work. I have recently bought a set of castings from Mike and they are sat on the shelf next to a set of Red Wing castings, all i need to do now is finish my Alyn Foundry RLE engine. 
I think i will start the Associated before the Red Wing as it will look great next to my full size Associated or Amanco as we call them on this side of the water.

Paul.


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## chads (Feb 17, 2011)

Thats a Beauty Paul.

Thanks for sharing the photo. 

Chads


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## chads (Feb 25, 2011)

Progress update: I just need to finish the skids and fuel tank.


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## GailInNM (Feb 25, 2011)

Chad,
A very nicely built and running engine. Congratulations.
Gail in NM


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## Maryak (Feb 25, 2011)

GailInNM  said:
			
		

> Chad,
> A very nicely built and running engine. Congratulations.
> Gail in NM



Me too :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## mcswainm (Aug 24, 2011)

Great Job. Working on one of those now. In the video it looks like the flywheel is turning counter clockwise. Is it running counterclockwise or clockwise?


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## chads (Aug 24, 2011)

Its going clockwise. I never noticed that but your right, it looks like its reversed. Good luck on your build !!!
If you have any questions I would be glad to help...


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## mcswainm (Aug 24, 2011)

Did you make the cam per plans? We are having trouble getting the valve timed.


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## chads (Aug 24, 2011)

Yes, my cam was made exactly as to the prints.

BTW I use a Buzz Coil to run mine & a micro switch to fire the coil. Seems to work well.


Chads


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## metalmad (Aug 24, 2011)

Hi Chads
Congrats mate on a lovely engine and great runner !! :bow:
Pete


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## chads (Dec 1, 2011)

I did not build the tank per the Breisch drawings. I did find that the tank position is very sensitive. I would imagine a check valve would help too... 
Good luck with your build 
Don
(Chads)


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## rklopp (Dec 4, 2011)

I do not have a constant level tank on my Breisch Hired Man. I built a flat rectangular brass box, instead. It works fine, though maybe a little mixture tweak is required here and there as the level drops.


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## Dave G (Dec 5, 2011)

I used a standard fuel tank with a check valve in the pickup tube on my hired man and it runs just fine. I used a 3/32 hardened ball to indent the seat and then replaced the ball with a SS 3/32 ball for running. The top of the fuel tank is about an inch below the needle valve in the carb. Also don't forget the vent hole in the tank. I put mine in the cap. Oh, by the way, nice engine. Dave


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## swinz (Feb 24, 2012)

I have just started on this engine, not touched the castings yet but started on the carburetor in my lunch time at work. Can anyone explain these notes on the drawing and what they are trying to tell me "THROAT FIT AT ASSY, & FILE VENTURI" along with the strange dimension 7/37.
I cant see any venturi, am i right in thinking that the jet and needle nut just screw in until they bottom out and this forms a venturi, what needs to filed? 

Thanks Paul.


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## Jasonb (Feb 25, 2012)

Basically don't machine it as a separate part with the cross hole. Instead slip the part into the main body to locate the cross hole postition, take apart drill 7/32" cross hole and blend with a file until the edges of the 7/32" hole widen out to the main hole dia of 9/32"

That way the hole will be in line with the main passageway and you will get a smooth flow of air, if it were a bit off you would get a more turbulent flow.


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