# help getting lathe up and running?



## Putt-Rite (Sep 2, 2018)

Anybody want to help me get started with my lathe? It's a WWII vintage (far as I know) Craftsman model that I *think* was used for war production. I *think* that is. 

I've been a member here for too long without starting a steam engine. I have a bucket foundry and have done a few pours, so can make chunks for turning.

I've had my lathe for ages but never turned it on. I have an extra set of gears for it. I need to do some assembling and stuff.

I'll post pics in a little bit.


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## Blogwitch (Sep 2, 2018)

When you post your pics, could you also let us know what part of the world you are located.

Thanks

John


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 3, 2018)

I'm in Haverhill, Massachusetts, USA. I'm also trying to make a donation and it's not letting me...

My Atlas Craftsman:







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Looks like my pics aren't coming through from tinypic?

Hokay so I set up an automatic subscription through Paypal. It went through to 7 Community something-or-other, then I cancelled the subscription because I only wanted to make a one-time payment, this has happened on another website I've donated to, and Paypal said it cancelled to "Keith," just one name and no last name? Grrrr. I hope this is normal?


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## Wizard69 (Sep 3, 2018)

Putt-Rite said:


> I'm in Haverhill, Massachusetts, USA. I'm also trying to make a donation and it's not letting me...
> 
> My Atlas Craftsman:
> 
> ...


I'm seeing this a lot wih various services and such.   Even Apple's developer accounts want you to subscribe with automatic renewals.   Honestly it pisses me off, if nothing else I don't want bank account surprises and even more so I need to manage my cash flow carefully.   

As for posting pictures there is a sticky post someplace that covers how to do this.    I'm not sure where it is at the moment but maybe somebody can drop a link.   I'll update this post if I find it.


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 3, 2018)

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## Putt-Rite (Sep 3, 2018)




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## Putt-Rite (Sep 3, 2018)

Wizard69 said:


> I'm seeing this a lot wih various services and such.   Even Apple's developer accounts want you to subscribe with automatic renewals.   Honestly it pisses me off, if nothing else I don't want bank account surprises and even more so I need to manage my cash flow carefully.
> 
> As for posting pictures there is a sticky post someplace that covers how to do this.    I'm not sure where it is at the moment but maybe somebody can drop a link.   I'll update this post if I find it.


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 3, 2018)

Aha! Take the url of your remotely hosted pic and click on the "link" icon and paste the pic in the field. 

Yep ever notice how the internet has turned into a giant IQ test and you have to work your ass off for it (Them) instead of it working for you? They can pretty much train you to accept whatever they want to do with your money (it's actually theirs, you just labor for it) and have carte blanche to waste your time and make you think think think where it worked much more simply 20 years ago? I detect a pattern...

I numbered my pics and in tinypic they organized my pics in reverse order, so I straightened that out, and now it's back to ordered backwards again. The internet will gaslight you and make you question your logic and memory. Basically it tries to make you feel stupid. Used to be able to bang your work out and get back to your offline activities; now it tries to keep you glued to the screen for as long as possible. I've been at this chore here for quite a while. I question what good this machine has brought ot my life sometimes...I refuse to carry one of those damn phones, too. I'm the only person I know who doesn't use one; I have a friend who has three.

Remember HTML? Oh, but it was "insecure," the "Russian Mafia" was forever hacking average Americans. Now we have Flash so if you blink you can't catch the fact the images on your screen have jumped. 

It's actually stressful having the computer go to war with you...I can feel the tops of my shoulders get hot from anger...be careful it's actually harmful, this bullshit stress. People need to resolve to talk about it so everybody knows they are being gamed.


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## Cogsy (Sep 3, 2018)

If you don't want to host your pics elsewhere it gets very simple to post pics here. Simply select the pic/s you want from your folder on your computer, then drag and drop them into the body of a post. They will automatically upload and you'll see them all as thumbnails at the bottom of your post. As you type your post and you want to insert on of the pics, simply click on the button underneath the pic and it will insert into position. It's far easier, and vastly quicker than messing around with Photobucket, etc.


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## deeferdog (Sep 4, 2018)

Well, one things for sure, it needs some assembly!


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## Crawdad (Sep 4, 2018)

Those parts are an Atlas manufactured 10F. Can't tell the bed length, but it's a 10F for sure. If it was sold by Sears, it'll have a Craftsman nameplate and model number, but the parts are unmistakable. It has a babbitt bearing headstock, and change gears rather than a quick change.


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## packrat (Sep 4, 2018)

I have had two Atlas/Craftsman lathes, do you need to know how to assembly it.?
I have the book on Craftsman lathes that could be of some help to you, let me know.


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 4, 2018)

packrat said:


> I have had two Atlas/Craftsman lathes, do you need to know how to assembly it.?
> I have the book on Craftsman lathes that could be of some help to you, let me know.




Yeh I need help with what to do first, then second...I want to do just one step at a time though. 

Awfully hot and humid here in New England, so I'd probably only be able to do one step per day/session...

Oh good it looks like I can cut-and-paste here after all...

Every website is different...

here's where I quit working on it. I wanted to get the chuck off but it wouldn't budge. I'd read of people breaking gears by jamming them and using force to unscrew the chuck so I thought I'd better stop fooling with it so I don't break something, and never restarted working.

I do believe all the parts are there for it. The motor works. I have some mechaical abilities, poor spelling, woodworking skills, and can solder wires etc.


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## DJP (Sep 4, 2018)

While it is disassembled and dry consider painting the components before reassembly. It will give you some immediate pride of ownership. 

When painted it might be easier to sell if you want a different lathe. Change gears can be a nuisance and if the chuck is seized I would leave it alone. It may run true as is and not need to be changed.

I had a Southbend 9 from the 1940s which was similar. It was worn in places but still did good work. Keep your old lathe well oiled before each use and I'll bet it provides you with good service too.


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## goldstar31 (Sep 4, 2018)

Out of curiosity , I found the parts list on the 'net'
So what can be done on a Limey's  machine should surely be obtainable in the US?  Don'y]t you think??????
So how to free a chuck? So once you have the lathe assembled, simply remove the 'bit of round' .
In the inside of the spindle casting is the big gear. The odds are that if you clout the gear, you will strip a tooth but if you spread the load by jamming a wedge of wood to lock the gear and Spread t he Force, you can put a bit of wood in the jaws of the 3 jaw and with sufficient length a clout with a hammer should jump the chuck off the spindle thread.

Actually I have two Myfords and some times there is a jam like yours and I made a proper  bar out of a bit of rectangular steel tubing.Often it is an awkward faceplate or catchplate on the ML10.

I recall that it the very dim and distant past, I had similar trouble with a wartime Pools Major which you will nevver heard of but before all this, I actually machined the back plate off. Today,     No Problem as described

I once took the fretted flywheel off a 997cc Mini Cooper but that took an 1" BSW homemade extractor-- but this is a Toy.

Let me know how t=you get on

Norm


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## Crawdad (Sep 4, 2018)

I'd start out working on the bed. Clean it up, go over it carefully looking for damage. Smooth down any dings or dents with appropriate file/scraper/stone, clean again and paint anything you want painted. Figure out where you're going to mount the lathe and bolt down the bed, making sure it's level as best you can. Once done, you're ready to start adding parts.

Others may disagree, but that's how I'd go at it, cleaning and adding parts as I go.


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 4, 2018)

DJP said:


> While it is disassembled and dry consider painting the components before reassembly. It will give you some immediate pride of ownership.
> 
> When painted it might be easier to sell if you want a different lathe. Change gears can be a nuisance and if the chuck is seized I would leave it alone. It may run true as is and not need to be changed.
> 
> I had a Southbend 9 from the 1940s which was similar. It was worn in places but still did good work. Keep your old lathe well oiled before each use and I'll bet it provides you with good service too.



Good idea but yeah I'm liking it as-is, it has a number hand painted on it which I assume is a catalog number from a factory somewhere. Lots of guys do like to paint theirs and I may do that someday but I need to see it running before I spend any energy on it. It looks like it has a bit of history to it and I think it was used for war materiel making. 

A friend about 4 hours from here got one similar with a quick-change gear box and simply took his to the car wash and blasted it clean, and then drenched it in WD-40 to chase the water out. I should have done that before I started taking it apart.. It was together but the motor assembly was disassembled.

It came with a metal bench (I could take a pic if necessary) but I made a wooden one that it sits on now. I have some 2x2 metal tubing I can stiffen the bench top with if needed. 

I'll just wait to see what I should do first...if it was yours, what would you do first (besides painting it lol).


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## goldstar31 (Sep 4, 2018)

Putt-Rite said:


> .if it was yours, what would you do first (besides painting it lol).



I'd listen to the voice of Experience and it was FREE and for the square root of sod all
 Painting--the 3B's ie Bullsh1t, baffles, brains!'

N


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## MRA (Sep 4, 2018)

Putt-Rite said:


> I'll just wait to see what I should do first...if it was yours, what would you do first (besides painting it lol).



I'd follow the idea above to mount the bed wherever you want it, try to get it level, and then start bolting things to it (finger tight) to see if everything is there.  The only awkward thing is likely to be the belt between the spindle and the countershaft - if it's a normal endless belt, changing it with everything together will be a pain in the neck, so have look at it first or decide to use a T-link (split-able) belt.  I guess I'd have a feel at the headstock bearings first too, and take any play out before going much further.

Once it's all together, folks here will advise on setting up jibs and seeing how true it turns.


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## 10thumbs (Sep 4, 2018)

I have one like it and had another like it in the past. Clausing has taken over from Atlas, and parts can be gotten from them. I had a catalog of parts, but my house burned last yr, and I have no idea where they were stashed (or thrown).  What I did find in the spot where I have it stored is a list of gears, (but probably only the ones I don't have): 56, 52, 46, 44, 40, 32. But if I remember right, there were nine on a stove bolt for the previous lathe. I also found a phone # 1-(800)-323-0972.
  On the earlier one, my chuck also got stuck. I got it off with a big pipe wrench, but a long bar clamped in the jaws would do the same. A strap wrench around the main gear would save shearing the lock pin. The model # is 618, as it is 6"x18".
  I didn't see a rocker switch with it. They can be expensive, but a 4-way switch for household lights will work.


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## packrat (Sep 4, 2018)

putt-rite is that lathe a 10 inch.? If it is, and it looks like 10 inch lathe to me. I have the parts list for that lathe,
it could be of help putting it back together. I found the lathe manual {craftsman} also..email me [email protected]


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 4, 2018)

MRA said:


> I'd follow the idea above to mount the bed wherever you want it, try to get it level, and then start bolting things to it (finger tight) to see if everything is there.  The only awkward thing is likely to be the belt between the spindle and the countershaft - if it's a normal endless belt, changing it with everything together will be a pain in the neck, so have look at it first or decide to use a T-link (split-able) belt.  I guess I'd have a feel at the headstock bearings first too, and take any play out before going much further.
> 
> Once it's all together, folks here will advise on setting up jibs and seeing how true it turns.




Okay I'll get it bolted down and be back...give me a few days it's so humid here I hardly can get anything done...

One question, my bench has a 3/4 plywood top, I think it measures 2' x 4', will that be stiff enough or should I fab up a square tube frame for the bed to sit on?


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## almega (Sep 5, 2018)

I had a stuck chuck on my "new" Logan and I was able to get it un-stuck without involving gears or wedging the shaft as follows:   I managed to get the chuck unstuck by making a left hand threaded shaft to put through the head stock with nuts on both ends. I put a piece of 1-1/2 hex stock in the chuck and then I took very long breaker bars and a 3 pound hammer to it. I had soaked it good with Kroil for a week and after about 5-6 good whacks, it came loose with no damage. Now I keep anti-seize on the threads and have had no further issues. 

For your bench top, you could double up the thickness with another piece of 3/4 to make it more rigid and that should be sufficient for your purposes.  Just level everything up once the lathe bed is mounted.

Good luck.  Looks like a fun project.


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## RM-MN (Sep 5, 2018)

Putt-Rite said:


> Okay I'll get it bolted down and be back...give me a few days it's so humid here I hardly can get anything done...
> 
> One question, my bench has a 3/4 plywood top, I think it measures 2' x 4', will that be stiff enough or should I fab up a square tube frame for the bed to sit on?



The plywood will be plenty stiff enough if you put it on a smooth concrete floor.  Any time you raise it off the floor the plywood will need some support.  How you support it is important.  It could be wood (better for dampening vibration but not as ridgid) or steel (stiffer than wood but doesn't absorb vibration as well)  or some other material.  Where you support it is even more important.  Look at the lathe and see where it will meet the plywood.  Supports need to go under there.


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## Aerostar55 (Sep 5, 2018)

Putt-Rite said:


> Yeh I need help with what to do first, then second...I want to do just one step at a time though.
> 
> Awfully hot and humid here in New England, so I'd probably only be able to do one step per day/session...
> 
> ...


Great project!   You will be happy with that lathe when you get it going.  I had to Assemble and wire up my South Bend.  Had to build a bench first but it was worth it!


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 9, 2018)

I had forgotten I did make a double 3/4 plywood top for my bench and doubled up on the 2 x 4 frame too...

Picked up a length of 5/16 allthread, nuts, and washers to hold it down.

Hopefully I can get on it Monday or Wednesday (Tues is out, too busy).


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## DJP (Sep 10, 2018)

Consider stiffening the bench with diagonal supports on the back legs or a full backing of plywood. It helps a lot.


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## dkwflight (Sep 10, 2018)

Look up mrpete222 on youtube.
He has a whole lot of vids, some on the Atlas/ craftsman lathes.


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## TSutrina (Sep 10, 2018)

Putt-Rite said:


> Anybody want to help me get started with my lathe? It's a WWII vintage (far as I know) Craftsman model that I *think* was used for war production. I *think* that is.
> 
> I've been a member here for too long without starting a steam engine. I have a bucket foundry and have done a few pours, so can make chunks for turning.
> 
> ...



You have an Atlas lathe.   youtube  trpete222   Tubalcain has a full series on this lath family rebuilding and using it.  he has the 12 inch model but the 10 inch is almost identical   Good luck


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 11, 2018)

Okay I loosely bolted the bed to the bench. DJP recommended diagonals and I tired sliding the bench out but it is pretty dang heavy...here's a pic of the detail of the corners I use, a bit of allthread with a bit of broom handle dowel cut in half, pulls the corner right up tight...

A pic of a dial indicator I got on ebay a few years ago. I hope China never changes!

Okay so what do I do next?


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## Baner (Sep 12, 2018)

Installing a lathe, if you hope to get accurate work from it, is not a trivial matter. A wooden bench can work, but is not the best option. When it comes to anything machine tools the more rigid and heavy the better.

To set the lathe bed properly it needs to be 'leveled'. This means installing the bed so the ways are perfectly flat. It is quite easy to twist the bed by haphazardly bolting it down. The major problem with a twisted lathe bed is  that it will always cut a taper.

The tool to check twist is a Machinist level. If you do not have one you'll need to get one from somewhere. Hardware store levels are not accurate enough. The bed will also need to be cleaned and debured. A photo of the lathe bed condition would be a good place to start for further advice. Cleaning should be your first step. 

Please take your time and use the right tools to setup your lathe. Any help you need please ask. Lathes can be very frustrating to use if not setup properly. 

Dave.


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## DJP (Sep 12, 2018)

The bed may be true 'as is' as long as you don't over tighten the bolts to an uneven bench. I would go ahead with mounting and assembling the lathe to the bench. Check for a warped bed later as you can always add shims under the hold down bolts.

The most fun is getting it running and making chips. Later you can measure chuck run out or bed warp. That would be my approach to maximize enjoyment of the project. I like getting the big stuff done first as it confirms the the machine is worth investing more time.


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## MRA (Sep 12, 2018)

I'd second that.  It will eventually be really useful to get lots of detailed help in working out why it's as bad as it turns out to be (just a little, or very) - but you've got to get it together and make some scrap first, so as to get motivated to tighten the gibs / headstock bearings / align tailstock / cast a mighty solid concrete plinth to sit it on .  Without trying it you won't get a feel for what errors you have to correct and what is their rank order, and if you're like me then as a result you'll do nothing and just sit and worry about it!


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## Crawdad (Sep 12, 2018)

I'm more in the "get it level" camp. Once I get a machine together to the point of being able to make chips, it's really hard for me to tear it back down again to do things right. One of the more important things you can do to get a lathe to perform well is getting the bed straight and level. Sure, the more solid the bench the better, but it seems you've got what you've got, and in the vein of "going back is not going forward" I'd concentrate on completing the "bolting it down" step and then carry on.

Once you've got the bed bolted down, the other item that will bolt to the bench will be the motor mount. Here's a link to an Atlas Press publication on mounting the 10 inch lathe that gives the hole positions for mounting the motor mount to the bench http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/51/16811.pdf. That should help you get the holes drilled and the motor mount in place.

Bill


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 12, 2018)

well okay yeah now I'm concerned about the bench...it is wood after all and will move with humidity and the seasons...my shed has 2 x 12 joists and 3/4 ply floor. I have the metal bench it came with. It was never bolted to a floor:





but I also have this, which I forgot about, I have so much junk. It has tabs on the bottom so it could be bolted to a concrete plinth:





I have a 1.75" maple table top I scrounged:





and 1.5 x 1.5 square tubing if y'all thought the maple top should sit on it for stiffness:





I just wiped the ways down with an oily rag. This is before,. I always keep it covered so sawdust doesn't get on it. :





I have more pics of the ways, they have little nicks along the edges in places, but I don't think that'll matter, they look all right to me.


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 12, 2018)

Inclinometer vial, could maybe make a level with it, 4s accuracy:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Incl...264767?hash=item4b30cca37f:g:Nq4AAOSwUM5aNBUM

10s accuracy level, would need to make a tunable base for it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-10s-2...230594?hash=item2827037802:g:zU8AAOSwEzxYWdJj

A free or cheap way to check ways for twist. I even have an Al tube, used to be a shower rod. I don't need to concern myself with this just yet, as I think the bench needs to be settled on:



The manual, which packrat was so kind to send me, states it should go on a minimum 1-5/8 maple glued up top, so I'm good there.


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## DJP (Sep 12, 2018)

It's my understanding that these old lathes were used on board ships and in the back of trucks for repairs in the field during the wars. I don't think that fussing with level should be top priority. The bench that you have with steel frame looks like a sewing machine work station. If you bolt the feet to a concrete floor it should be stiff enough.

On the other hand if you want to level the bed and remove any twist during assembly enjoy the project journey. Have fun.


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## Baner (Sep 12, 2018)

People seem to confuse lathe leveling with being 'level'. It has nothing to do with 'level'. In this context level is the term used to describe_ twist_. This is why lathes can be installed on ships or trucks. Or consider slant bed CNC lathes. Or vertical lathes.

The maple table top attached to any of those benches should be sufficient.

You'll have to decide whether to throw the lathe together or set it up properly so that the people here can give you the advice you need.

Dave.


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## MRA (Sep 13, 2018)

Yes - the only advantage of getting it level is that it is then easy to use an accurate spirit level to check for twist along the bed.

One advantage of *not* having your base board level (I levelled my bed off it using shims) is that if you end up adding a coolant pump, the stuff will flow along to somewhere you can pick it up from!  A first for me - the sum of random errors in my set up was such that the coolant flowed to the most convenient place to recycle it, rather than down the back of the bench somewhere inaccessible.  

Along these lines - cleanup is a massive pain in the a*** (in my view) with any lathe, and the easier you make it the cleaner you'll be able to keep things.  I have a big stainless sheet which slides over the bench top, cut in slots to avoid the lathe feet and with a lip on the front edge.  With wooden runners screwed on in strategic places it handles the coolant return problem as I mentioned above, and I can pull it out like a drawer and scrape the swarf off it down to one end (where I even made a shute on the wall, down to my scrap bin). 

Maybe you're a lot tidier than I am, and this won't be necessary!


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## MRA (Sep 13, 2018)

Oh, another thing.  So long as the feet on your bench don't vibrate and lose contact with the floor, screwing it down won't add to its rigidity (it will vibrate a bit anyway, even if the feet are stationary).  My bench has a shelf low down, on which are piled all sorts of drawers full of the scrap I make things out of.  The whole thing is very heavy indeed, and there was no gain in bolting things down hard.  

(The health and safety people at work made us bolt our big machines down.  The only way one of them was going over, is if someone drove a fork-lift at it full-tilt...)


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## goldstar31 (Sep 13, 2018)

At the risk of expected criticism,  I would forget all this stuff about alignment, do it yourself gizmos and  other devices and determine PRECISELY what has happened to your lathe and especially, its bed and saddle over what is many years.  We now know that some ''comedian' has been parting off with the lathe running and using a hacksaw.
There are other discoveries which have to be unearthed and I would simply arm myself with a packet of cigarette papers, a set of feeler gauges and  a sweethearted bit of  plate glass( I said plate glass) from the local glazier! Ideally, it should be a bit larger than the lathe.
leaving the mounting bolts out,  I would put the plate over the  top of the bed and by using the feeler gauges- or if wear is negligible, the cigarette papers. Ideally, it should be possible to draw a relief map of the 'hills and hollows'

Then- and only then, should a decision be made of the future work.

Once done, it will be possible to comment.

Regards

Norman


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## goldstar31 (Sep 13, 2018)

Incidentally there was quite a bit on the subject in MadModder about the late David Lammas who overhauled an early Myford and wrote it all up in Model Engineer.  'Miner', the late and very lamented John Stevenson and myself went to town on it. Sadly, the original poster has not been heard of for the last 4 years!
'Miner' was also poorly- so that's it.

Maybe someone with access to old Model Engineers will unearth the two articles and perhaps my  PostBag write up in the same magazine.

Earlier here, I wrote up about the existence of Machine Tool Reconditioning by Connelly. Was the lathe overhaul bit on the said lathe? Checked- it was a South Bend but it was a flat bed job


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 13, 2018)

how about I pour a 6" plinth? Or more or less?


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## DanP (Sep 13, 2018)

This is what I made to install and remove the chucks on my Super 7.  3/4" 5 ply, 10" from chuck centre to tip of handle.


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 13, 2018)

goldstar31 said:


> At the risk of expected criticism,  I would forget all this stuff about alignment, do it yourself gizmos and  other devices and determine PRECISELY what has happened to your lathe and especially, its bed and saddle over what is many years.  We now know that some ''comedian' has been parting off with the lathe running and using a hacksaw.
> There are other discoveries which have to be unearthed and I would simply arm myself with a packet of cigarette papers, a set of feeler gauges and  a sweethearted bit of  plate glass( I said plate glass) from the local glazier! Ideally, it should be a bit larger than the lathe.
> leaving the mounting bolts out,  I would put the plate over the  top of the bed and by using the feeler gauges- or if wear is negligible, the cigarette papers. Ideally, it should be possible to draw a relief map of the 'hills and hollows'
> 
> ...



You Guys,

Oh man it's going to take me quite soem time to get this thing in turning trim...I hope y'all can hang in there with me...I intended to do an Al pour today and also pour the concrete for the plinth but it's not happening, too many little things in the way in the shed...

I should probably turn some rounds on the wood lathe and make up a grid of them so I can pour 3-4 round bars at a time before I do anything...oh but first I need the form for the plinth...but I want to do both at the same time lol...

if you can hang in there it'll make me a happy camper...

I think I'll do a 6" reinforced plinth for under the black sewing machine stand; the stand is low so I'll sit down to work and that will also make it stiffer than standing-height. I will add an angle iron stiffener, I think it has a little wobble to it as it is now, and a shelf for 3 cinder blocks filled with concrete for added weight, and maybe make the top double-thickness, or maybe not. I have to settle on something and get going...


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## Milliron (Sep 13, 2018)

I have had one of these in the past. They will work just fine for a first lathe If the chuck is seized on the spindle, use caution ,the back gears which would allow you to lock the spindle with the pin engaged are made of zamick. It is a pot metal used for die casting and can not really be repaired if broken. I wouldn't t wedge anything in the gear teeth for that reason.don t panic if it is stuck, I have never seen one that would not come off if you were careful. You should be able to really tighten the drive belt and put a 10in. Crescent wrench on one of the chuck jaws and bump firmly with the palm of your hand to remove it. Contact me if you need additional help. Henry


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## DJP (Sep 13, 2018)

My first lathe, a 1940s Southbend 9, came with wooden stand and the storage space beneath soon became loaded with spare chucks, steady rests and other tooling to provide stabilizing weight. The lathe was well worn so that parting off was a challenge with excessive vibration that I don't think any bench strength would have fixed. 

Before you get overwhelmed with suggestions, I would simply log each idea in a project file for some future date. The important thing is to know if the lathe works as adding money to repair it may be better spent on a new lathe which may or may not fit on your custom made bench.

Personally I would test the important parts of this project first which is to confirm that the machine is useable. If not, you will have different issues and new priorities. You may even find a good used lathe that is in better shape so investing too much in this one would not be my approach.

I'll leave you to it as it's your project and my thoughts are just suggestions for your project file. It does bother me that you are trying to deal with every new suggestion so please ignore mine if it helps.


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## Anatol (Sep 13, 2018)

re:  stuck chuck
Kroil is magical stuff, but you have to give it time to work (like weeks) applying Kroil daily or every few days.  50/50 ATF and acetone is a commonly used alternative. I call it 'poor man's kroil'.
Don't underestimate the power of hot and cold. If you can heat the chuck (not too hot, maybe with an electric hotplate)  and cool the shaft (with ice)  it might just drop off - especially if you have soaked it in  kroil for a week or two.
just my two cents


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## ShopShoe (Sep 14, 2018)

What Anatol said: Soak your stuck parts with the fluid of your choice, then use hot and and cold to cause expansion/contraction to help break the bond, then soak with fluid again. Repeat this cycle as many times as it takes. Be very careful with applying any kind of added force and be very patient.

One of the most satisfying of shop experiences is to finally get something apart without damaging anything.

Let us know how it goes.

--ShopShoe


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## Anatol (Sep 14, 2018)

What ShopShoe said: "use hot and and cold to cause expansion/contraction to help break the bond, then soak with fluid again"

A dead-blow hammer can be useful later in the process to shock encrusted corrosion. I'd put the chuck face down and give it a knock on the side about every 45 degrees.


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## Putt-Rite (Sep 14, 2018)

Hokay one of my mistakes was listing too many issues I have to deal with 

I've thought about the plinth...24" x 48" x 4" will weigh 382 lbs. I'd add 2 eyes to it so it could be moved in the future (I have an HF engine hoist crane thing. I wouldn't mind putting this off for a little while as I have house (circa 1912, asbestos siding, the works)maint. going on and when I think about it, I really don't want to do this...but I have to...I just don't want the labor...

I do have it temp. bolted to the wood bench I made...how about we assemble it so it is at least put all together so I know what it looks like? Then I can disassemble and decide what to do next...I need to hook up the motor and reverse switch and etc.

smallish parts can be gotten from South Bend and I do have a carbide long handled scraper. There's also peopel parting out old machines all the time...

So how about I next bolt down the countershaft bracket assembly?


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## john_reese (Oct 10, 2018)

When you have the bed cleaned up measure the width of the bed at several points between the headstock end and the tailstock end.  The dimensions at the extreme ends of the bed will be the original width.  These areas are not subject to wear from the carriage.  If the portion of the bed where the saddle contact it are narrower than the original width you will have to grind or scrape the edges of the bed to get them parallel.  Failure to do so will result in a lathe that will not cut consistent diameters.  That is a problem with flat ways.  With V ways you can do accurate work even with a worn bed


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