# Half Scale Domestic "Stovepipe" build



## Jasonb

Well with the Benson out of the way I suppose I should start to write up the next project which is as the title says a half scale model of a Domestic Stovepipe or frost proof hit and miss engine, the name comes from the fact that the hopper is sheet metal not cast which was prone to crack if left in a barn or around the farm full of water in cold weather. This is an old catalogue picture of what the finished engine should look like







This kit is one of the original Dick Shelley produced ones but you can now buy them from Bob Herder. As you can see there are quite a few pieces and being half scale its quite a hefty model, the parts as shown below weigh it at about 55lbs. To get an idea of size the flywheels finish up at 7.2 dia.






As is my usual way I have several projects on the go at the same time and started to do the odd little bit of this engine between other things. Rather than tackle one of the castings first I thought I would get some of the smaller items out of the way so decides to make rather than buy all the fixings. The drawings specify 1/4x20, 10-24 and 5-40 for most of the threads so I substituted ¼ Whitworth, 2BA and 5BA and came out with this little pile.







Once I started properly the first item to get worked on was the main engine casting which is really the crankcase. A light skim was taken off the upper surfaces to give a stable base so that the casting could be clamped upside down and the foot machined flat, the edges trued up so future references could be taken from them and at the same time a recess cut to take a brass plate to form the fuel tank within the base.






With that done the casting was bolted right way up to the mill table and the flat pockets to take the bearing caps machined and bolt holes to hold them tapped. The bearing caps were also machined at this time so they would be ready for when the bearings needed boring.
The casting was then upended and the flange that holds the cylinder faced, bored and the fixing holes drilled to the correct PCD using the DRO to work out the locations.






Due to the way the base pattern is split the fuel feed boss needs to be machined round . I free handed it with a ½ slot drill that had had the corners rounded off so it left a cast fillet at the base of the boss. As a guide to the freehand cutting the bit of hex stock is screwed into the pipe thread and an ali ring left loose on the shank, as the edge of the mill touches the ali it starts to turn, thats when you stop feeding in the cutter and move a little further round the boss. 
The mould halves were also a bit out of line so the casting was shimmed slightly off true and the end milled flat, the effect of the shim is to maintain the draught angle. The surface will be textured a bit later so it looks cast.






The last major item for now on the base is to bore the two bearing housings so the bearing caps were fixed on with socket screws for now and the casting set on its side. The centre point was then picked out and the majority of the waste drilled out before changing to a boring head to take it out to 0.812 ready to accept the bearings.






And here it is with a few other surfaces faced to size, holes added and you can just see the two little pins in the bottom of the bearing housings that stop the bearings rotating.






.







The bearings were finished off with some brass covers to the oil boxes with springs & screws to keep them in place







That will do for now, next I will deal with the crankshaft.

Jason


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## b.lindsey

Nice start Jason. Should make a beautiful engine too....will look forward to following along.

Bill


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## vcutajar

I will be following your build also. 55lbs, that is heavy.

Vince


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## lazylathe

You must have a motto "No rest for the wicked" hung up in your workshop!

Another great start to a great looking engine!
Will be tagging along for this journey!!

Andrew


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## Don1966

Jason I would follow any of your builds, your work is superb. You are already off to a good start keep all of those photos coming.

Don


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## Blogwitch

Very nice start to an interesting project Jason.

It is refreshing to see easy to read text and large pictures together.

Nice one


John


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## deverett

Jason

You know I will be watching avidly!

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## cfellows

Looks like a fun build, Jason. I'll be following along.

Chuck


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## rhitee93

I have my pencil and notepad ready...


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## SBWHART

An interesting engine Jason look forward to folllowing your thread

Stew


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## Jasonb

Thanks for all the encouraging comments so far.

Don, there are plenty of photos to come (about 60 at the moment) its the words to go with them that take a while.

John Bogs, English was never my best subject so easy writing equals easy to read and we can all understand pictures

So back to the build. As this is a good size engine with a capacity at 79cc or 4.8cu.in it will have quite a kick when it hits so rather than a built up crank shaft I opted for cutting from solid.

A length of 1x2 Flat bar was squared up on the ends to give a length of 10 ¾. This was then blued and some basic layout done to make sure that I knew which bits where waste and what had to remain. 






Next the blank was clamped vertically to an angle plate and an edge finder used to locate the mill over the end, The DRO was then used to position the three centres needed and also a hole to be tapped to take a stud to drive the crank in the lathe, this was repeated on the other end.






The waste was then removed by stitch drilling. I used a ¼ split point stub drill as they dont need a centre or spot drill to start when doing this sort of work as I left a 1/16 clearance to the line and also being shorter they dont wander into the previous hole. I just used the hand wheel scale to give me 0.25 steps as its quicker than the DRO which I tend to have set up to more decimal places.






While drilling it was actually possible to see the two ends of the crank starting to curl away from me as the tensions within the cold rolled steel were released and the stitching opened up, I had made allowance for this. It was then just a case of 4 short saw cuts where the drill had been kept clear of the vice jaws and the waste fell out.






With the burrs removed the crank went back into the mill and the webs were milled to thickness and a bit of excess removed from their length.





It was then over to the lathe were the first job was to round the ends of the webs. Rather than go straight in and start the pin I took a few roughing cuts of the shafts to get rid of some excess metal so things would not be quite so out of balance when the pin was turned enabling a higher speed to be used.






Here the pin has been finished and the inside edges of the webs machined to width. This was done with a combination of parting tool and left & right hand indexible bits. For the last couple of cuts I changed from a 0.4mm corner radius on the tip to 0.8mm, this helps eliminate stress raisers in the corners.






The next shot shows one end completed, note the bit of ali under the dog screw to save marking the finished surface. The other end has had the drive lug cut off and is about to be machined. You will also see that a disc of steel was machined to a snug fit between the webs, cross drilled to take a retaining zip tie and a bit of hot glue to make sure it did not move about. This allows the tailstock centre to be brought up tight without the risk of deforming the crank.






And this is the finished item save for a bit of clean up to remove the tool marks on the web sides






Thats enough for now, quite a bit for one part so I will leave you with a few shots of the state of play so far.













Jason


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## mh121

Excellent work as usual Jason, I will be following this build as I have looked at this kit myself.

Cheers,
MartinH


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## smfr

Great looking crankshaft. What kind of tool did you use for the center journal and the insides of the throws?


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## ZAPJACK

Nice job on the crankshaft :bow: :bow:
LeZap


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## Jasonb

For the throws I have a tool similar to this but it's double sides so I can flip it over to get the other hand, I've not seen them for sale anywhere I got mine at a show from JB cutting tools (no relation). I don't much care for this shape of insert and mostly use CCMT ones but the more pointed one is a thicker shank to the rest I have so it was more rigid with the long overhang

For the actual journal I got most of it out with the tool above and then the final 10thou was done by going back and forth with a parting tool like this taking 0.001 cuts and feeding in while traversing.


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## moconnor

Hello Jason,

Thanks so much for sharing your work with us. I look forward to each one of your posts because I learn something about modelmaking every time. Your efforts of documenting your work are greatly appreciated.

I am curious about how the crankshaft is located between the main bearings though. Not just on your engine, but on several model hit-n-miss engines that I have seen so far, there are flanged bearings that look similar to what you see in an automotive engine to control thrust and crankshaft end play. But, the main journals have no 'thrust surfaces' - like a thrust bearing journal on an automotive crankshaft, instead the journals have these short shoulders like the design of your engine does. I just wonder why they don't use a taller shoulder on the crankshaft to match the height of the flanged bearing? Does the crankshaft just 'float' between the main journals? I suppose that if everything is straight and all the forces are at right angles to the axis of the crankshaft, it should just float between the bearings. Of course, a hit-n-miss engine like this has a single cylinder and wouldn't have the axial thrust from a clutch like an auto engine may have. But, why not have a taller shoulder to match the flanged bearing? Any thoughts? How much end play does the drawing call out on the assembled engine?

Come to think of it, many steam engine models are similar- like most (all?) in the Stuart line. If you had a marine application, the propeller shaft would certainly apply an axial force that could use the extra oil film that a taller shoulder on the crankshaft would provide. Although, I imagine that a substantial thrust bearing would be used on the propeller shaft before it is coupled to the engine.

Thanks again Jason. I will be following your build 'with notebook at the ready' like many others here.

Kind regards,
Mike


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## Jasonb

There is actually a bit more to come off the diameter of those flanges they are still the stock size but they will end up about twice the width of the 1/16" shoulder on the crankshaft.

There is no endplay specified just a note to say machine the thickness of the flanges to centre the crank in the engine, there is quite a bit of sideways play available on the little end/inside of piston so any misalignment will be lost there.

The sideways movement of the crank is also stopped by the flywheels which bear against the other end of the bearings as they are a fraction longer than the bearing housings so once its all together there will be maybe 0.001" of float, just enough for a smooth rotating crank.

I suppose this type of location is fine as most of these engines and stationary steam engines had little or no end loads so there is no need for a large thrust surface.

J


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## Don1966

Jason thank you for those excellent photos, i have never done a crank and you have inspired me to do so, just to see if I can do it. Your documentation to detail is the greatest. Keep um coming.

Don


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## moconnor

Hello Jason,

Thanks for answering my numerous questions, I appreciate it. Looking forward to your progress on this engine with keen interest.

Kind regards,
Mike


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## Jasonb

Staying with this end of the engine the next piece to be tackled was the splash guard , this is an alloy casting and needed very little machining, just the bolting flange and a couple of bolt holes plus a hole for a drip feed oiler. It did need quite a bit of hand work to remove the casting part line but Im happy with how it looks now.






And here it is in position, its only held by the two bolts at the cylinder end and just notches over the base casting at the other so I have to resist the temptation to pick the engine up by this part.






With the crank complete I could start to make the parts that fit onto it and bore them to the correct fit. First up was the pulley. I did not use the bronze casting supplied as the pulley face will be left as bare metal so CI will look right. Also did the brass spacer ring and here they are along with one of the supplied timing gears.






Next up were the flywheels, luckily these have a substantial boss either side of the hub so I was able to hold by that carefully while the opposite side was cleaned up, the flywheel was then held by the cleaned up boss in the 3 jaw with centre support which allowed the face and both sides of the rim to be machined all in one setting along with the bore so no risk of eccentricity. The final job was to recess the faces and remove the unwanted boss on one side of each as the same casting is used but the wheels are handed.

I still have to cut the keyways and fit dummy bolts as the cast in ones were quite poor, pic to follow.











The engine was originally supplied with either an ugly looking cast silencer (muffler) or a cylindrical steel one. The model is supplied with the cast one in alloy or drawings to fabricate the steel item which is what I opted for.

Luckily a quick rummage found some suitable dia steel tube so that was faced to length and the required number of holes drilled. I did not have a lot of 2.5 dia steel in stock for the end plates so used ¼ plate, here you can see the tubes and the initial machining of the plates before they were rounded off.






To cut the 3/8 pipe thread on the nipple I opted for my set of pipe dies and ratchet stock as this gives plenty of leverage. 






This is the finished item, the curved socket was silver soldered into the end plate and the malleable iron elbow was bought in.






J


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## kustomkb

Very nice work, as usual Jason.

That's a pretty serious crank you made there.  Nicely done.


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## Don1966

Jason excellent work as usual and making progress. I am still here interested and love your documentation to details.

Don


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## Catminer

Keep up the good work Jason, still watching with great interest.

Peter


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## b.lindsey

Every new part is looking just great Jason...I am really enjoying both your build and the excellent documentation, not to mention looking forward to your next update. Nice job on the flywheels and muffler and that crank too !!!

Bill


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## Jasonb

Thanks for all the comments, cylinder head next, hope you are sitting comfortably its a long one.

The kit is supplied with some photos and accompanying notes on various machining setups. It shows the first thing to be dome on the head as machining the base, unfortunately the set up shown would need a 10-12 4 jaw to have long enough jaws and even then is a bit iffy as you can only hold about 1/16 of the cast rim!!

I opted to set the head up on the mill with shims to ensure the cast external face was as true as possible. I then reduced the valve stems to height, these were chilled and it blunted a ½ mill with the first touch so changed to a little hogger to finish them off. At the same time the three head mounting holes were drilled ¼and accurately spot faced to the same height.







I took advantage of the ¼ holes and tapped them part way with a 9/32x40 tap and machined up some posts to screw into these.






The other ends of the posts were tapped M6 to take CSK screws and an alloy plate drilled and CSK to the same bolt pattern as the head.






Without disturbing the plate after drilling the head was screwed on, a skim cut taken across the top and the centre point spotted.






The whole thing was then set up in the 4 jaw and the spotted centre set to run true after which the casting was machined back to thickness and recessed out. The outside was also trued up and the step for the wrapper cut.






I now had to machine another eccentric recess to take the end of the cylinder. A digital angle block was zeroed and a height gauge used to mark centre height, the gauge was then adjusted to the correct offset, work rotated 90degrees and the work marked











The intersection of the two lines was marked using an optical centre punch and this was then clocked true in the 4-jaw and the recess cut.






The head and machining plate were then transferred to the marking plate for the position of the two valves to be established. 






These were then drilled, counter bored and the valve seats machined ay 41degrees. I had previously fabricated and part machined the valves so these could have their sealing faces machined straight afterwards without altering the top slide angle.






As you can see things were getting a bit eccentric by now so speed had to be kept down and care taken to manually rotate the check before any machining started to ensure the eccentric part would not hit anything before switching on.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-_PQnPYdgs[/ame]

With all the turning done the head was mounted on a pair of angle plates set to the required 30degrees for the sparkplug hole. I used a bit of silver steel (drill rod) in the valve guides to touch the edge finder against to set the hole central to the two valves.






The hole was then tapped M10x1 using a small centre in the chuck to keep the tap in line and finally the hole was spot faced.






All that was left was to face, drill and tap the inlet & exhaust and that was the head finished (valves are overlong at the moment to give something to hold while grinding in)
















Jason


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## SBWHART

Thats a real beutiful peice of work Jason well thought out and shown

 :bow: :bow: :bow:

Stew


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## Don1966

Gee! Jason you make that all look so easy. That is some great setup, I especially like the way you put your digital angle gauge on the lathe and clocked your angle. The setup up plate pure genius. I wish I could be right there with you when you are doing the actual setups. This is pretty close too but not the same. Keep your documentation to details coming, I love it.

Don


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## Philipintexas

I finished mine several years ago, I wish I'd been able to see your approach to some of these operations, but that's what makes this hobby so interesting. There are "Lots of ways to skin a cat". This is one of the strongest running engines I've built. When it comes to the cam, I ended up building up a lump of Bondo on the first unsuccessful attempt and shaping my own lobe, once trial & error produced a good profile, I replicated it in steel.


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## Jasonb

Philip, thanks for the tip about the cam, I'll see how it runs and take it from there. Saw the photos of your engine and you have done a nice job of it though the engine turning is not my cup of tea.

Well back to the build, with the cylinder head done the next obvious part was the cylinder. This is quite a large casting with an offset flange to form one end of the water jacket. I started buy holding it by this flange and turned the OD and inside face of the flange.






I then reversed it in the chuck, clocked it all true and then faced the flange back to thickness, formed the spigot that fits into the crankcase and then bored to 1.749






The final job while in the chuck was to put a taper onto the end of the bore to help with getting the piston rings into the cylinder. You may notice that for the boring I switched to the old 4 way toolpost that came with the lathe as this allows me to hold a thicker boring bar than the QCTP.






The machining plate that I used for the head was again put into use, I cut a shallow recess for the spigot to locate into and fitted some longer screws.






This allowed me to hold the casting so that the flange ran true and the edge was reduced to the required dia and a step machined for the water jacket wrapper.






The final job was to hone the bore with a brake cylinder hone, I did this with the hone in the pillar drill at its slowest speed and just held the casting by hand and gently worked it up & down.






This is the finished item






The cast ali piston comes with a good sized machining spigot, the casting was trued up in the 4-jaw and the spigot skimmed, I then reversed the casting round held buy the spigot.






It was then just a case of turning, boring the skirt and cutting the piston ring grooves.






I then moved over to the mill and held the piston in a 3-jaw mounted on the rotary table and milled the inside faces to width for the conrod little end, without altering the R/T it was then mounted vertically to drill and ream for the gudgen pin(wrist pin), to ensure the drill started true on the second part of the cut I used a long series centre drill to get it started. Note the packing under the piston to stop any chance of it deflecting down as the 3/8 hole was formed.






It was then back to the lathe to face off the top and form the shallow recess. This is it with the wrist pin and screws used to stop the pin rotating, and the next is it all assembled.











And to round off a couple of shots of the current state of progress as described so far.











J


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## arnoldb

That's looking really good Jason Thm:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## Don1966

Welcome back Jason glad to see you have made progress. It is really looking great to me and as usual you documention and photos are superb.

Thanks Don


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## idahoan

Great update Jason; the Domestic is coming along nicely.

Thanks for posting your progress.

Dave


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## 2manyhobbies

Jason
I wanted to say thank you for documenting your progress so well - you do great looking work! After reading your crankshaft turning post it inspired me to build my F/M 25 hp crank the same way and it worked out great! I will be following the rest of the build. 
Thanks again,
Brad


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## Jasonb

Good to hear it was of help Brad.

I must catch up with tehe build descriptions as the engine is almost finished  infact I fitted the valve springs the other day and on turning the engine over thought something had jammed, it was just the compression ;D

J


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## steamer

Nicely done Jason!  Love to see some more pictures!

Dave


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## b.lindsey

Always look forward to more updates on this one Jason...such a nice engine and great progress so far.

Bill


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## idahoan

th_wwp

Yea you have probably seen that one before ;D

But some progress photos would be nice; I really enjoyed the Famous build so the precedent has been set.


Dave


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## Ogaryd

Hi Jason,

    This engine is going to be beautiful, More pictures please.

                                                            Regards Gary


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## kvom

Have caught up with this thread --- beautiful work as usual.


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## Jasonb

Well I had to look back to see where I left off as it's been a while since I posted any progress but it looks like I left off with the piston so the next parts I must have made were the piston rings.

These were turned from CI bar, parted off and then split with the cutters you can see in the photo before being spread open and heated to red heat for a few mins.






Next up was the bronze conrod, the drawings have a note to make this a little shorter to reduce compression so the hole does not fall ideally in the middle of the boss which means a bit more clean-up work but nothing too difficult. First I took a light skim off each side to give a ref face and something decent to mark out on.






The casting was then sawn in half with a hacksaw and the two mating faces flycut back to the lines






The two faces were then tinned with plumbers soft solder and then sweated together, this way there is no risk of the parts moving while drilling for bolts and machining.






I set the rod up on packing and bored the big end, followed by the small






The holes for the fitted bolts were reamed and flats machined each end, with the added security of the bolts the rod was mounted onto an expanding mandrel and the sides finish turned.






It was then just a case of several milling opperations to get the big end in particular to the correct shape.






And here it is fitted to the piston.






J


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## Jasonb

Next I tackled the carb. The top is turned from 1" brass bar and then transfered to the mill to have the hex formed







before being upended to have 4 holes drilled which are quite a tight fit.






Luckily the bronze casting for the main carb body has a large turning spigot incorporated which makes it quite east to hold so most of the turning can be done at one setting, then moved to the hill for the cross holes and also two rather tricky passages for the fuel.






I then machined a matching 1/2"x40 ME thread onto a scrap bit of stock so the bottom hole could be reamed and undercut. I used the same method to hold the body to drill & tap the fuel needle hole at the required angle.






A couple of plugs for the fuel passages were turned from the machining spigot and then silver soldered into counterbores at the ends of the passages, the bits of angle stop the plugs dropping out when soldering, still a bit hot here.






And here are the two parts after a quick clean up, the plugs now need filing to profile and the surface texturing to match the rest of teh cast body.






The remaining parts are mostly straight forward turning if a little bit on the small side, the main thing to get right is the 45deg seating for the "float" which need s to be lapped in so the fuel is shut off until there is a vacuum in the intake at which point the float lifts against a small spring and allows fuel to flow.






And this is how it all goes together.






It was then just a case of making up the fuel lines, intake pipework and fuel filler pipe & cap.






J


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## vcutajar

Hi Jason

It's nice to see some more progress in your engine build.  As always will be following along.

Vince


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## rhitee93

Wow, that looks great.

About the rings, you just used the snips to "Crack" them?  I would have never guessed they would break so cleanly like that!


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## Brian Rupnow

Jason---Excellent work and spectacular pictures.---Brian


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## Jasonb

The exhaust valve and timing are actuated by a gear driven rod that passes down the side of the engine. I used a length of 1/2" presision ground mild steel for this, the gear is supplied in the kit and the rest of the parts are basic turning and milling - from left to right.

Exhaust cam
Timing collar
Corian Insulator
Bracket
Gear
Key
Cap
Cap retaining bolt






The other end of the rod is supported by a bracket that bolts to the cylinder head. There are 4 holes that lie on the same centreline, the best I could get was the three small ones in line and the large bearing hole slightly off.






This would have been OK after cleanup had there not been about 1/16 of shift between the two halves of the casting, you can see the step on the left of the photo






Which resulted in the hole on the other side being a bit off!!






I got round this by mounting the casting on a mandrel, turning down the boss and then loctiting a brass sleeve in place, once painted it won't show.











The timing can be advanced and retarded by a lever that is another bronze casting, this was a bit of a pig to hold, first thing was to get a flat face






I could then get it on the rotary table to bore the holes and cut the curved slot.






Final job was machining a recess on the back






And thats the leaver finished with a few of the fittings, the contact at the bottom is held in two bits of corian to insulate it from the engine and this makes contact with the timing collar to fire the sparkplug. The spring pulls the governor trip off the catch






The last of the bronze castings is the exhaust rocker, no machining pics of this just the finished item.






One other item that fits onto the bracket is the governor trip this is fabricated from drill rod and ground flat stock as is the catch.






Jason


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## Rivergypsy

Nice work. I like it )


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## Herbiev

And another avid follower here. Looking great Jason


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## Don1966

Ha! The sun came up again. Great progress Jason and I love your photos.


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## idahoan

Nice work Jason; thanks for the update.

Dave


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## ProdEng

Awesome work, love the rework of the casting.


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## Jasonb

The sheet metal water jacket is held on by an arrangement ofrods and brackets, these four brackets are supplied as a single casting and ittook some time to get my head around what was shown on the drawing and the lump of bronze in my hand as they are all the same but different if you know what Imean!

First job was to tidy up the casting and machine a few of the straight lines







With some edges established the 3/16&#8221; holes were drilled and then the waste cut away, here are the parts along with the stainless steel rods







It was then a case of rounding over one set of ends







Followed by the others







A final bit of hand work had them all looking nice and readyfor a trial fit







The actual jacket is supplied ready cut and folded so it wasjust a case of drilling and forming the rivits and then shaping round asuitable former to get it round







There are two drip feed oilers, one for the piston and onefor the crank, therse followed drawing except I went for 1/8&#8221; smaller diameterglass tube.







 J


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## gus

Hi Maestro,

I am following your engine build. Picking up new knowledge and hopefully new skills to go on to tougher jobs. This is one engine I can only see and cannot build in my balcony machineshop.:wall:

However the least I can do is the Drip Feed Oiler. Grew up with this in Metal Box/Continental Can. Please email drawing. Drip Feed Oilers are not extinct in Singapore.


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## deverett

Gus

You can get drawings for Lunkenheimer style oilers in 1/4 scale from Morrison & Marvin.  They include some of the small bits with the drawings.  USD10.00 including international shipping.

Have a look at http://www.morrisonandmarvin.com/order.php

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## gus

deverett said:


> Gus
> 
> You can get drawings for Lunkenheimer style oilers in 1/4 scale from Morrison & Marvin.  They include some of the small bits with the drawings.  USD10.00 including international shipping.
> 
> Have a look at http://www.morrisonandmarvin.com/order.php
> 
> Dave
> The Emerald Isle




Hi Dave,
Thanks.Went in and bought one pce for my antique collection. Oilers are extinct in Singapore. First saw this as a young lad on a overhead pulley drive "Shanghai" Lathe.


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## deverett

Gus

The machining notes included are quite useful, especially for the not so gifted machinists like me.

Once you have the drawings, you can scale them up for a larger engine if you want.  If no real glass the right diameter is available, you can use plastic tube or even drill out a solid piece of plastic.  The other bits are quite easy to make in the larger sizes.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## Philipintexas

I built the same engine several years ago, I made a cylindrical tube stuffed with steel-wool and "engine-turned"  the outside surface of the copper water jacket and the horizontal shaft for the cam. It makes a really nice addition to an otherwise blank surface. This may be the best running engine I've completed.


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