# 2 cylinder flame licker



## Swifty (Oct 30, 2013)

I mentioned in a previous post that my next engine would be a flame licker, I am aware of how fussy they are to get going, despite that I have decided to double the trouble and build a twin. I have downloaded Jan Ridders plans for his "Flame Eater, 2 Cylinder, Internal Valves"

I will start the build shortly.

Paul. 

View attachment Flame Eater 2-cyl int valves assembly.pdf


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## idahoan (Oct 30, 2013)

Interesting looking design; do the pistons move the valves? It appears that there may be a detent ball but I don't see any linkage to operate the valves.

Dave


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## Swifty (Oct 30, 2013)

Hi Dave, yes, the pistons move the valves. There is a detent ball with only the slightest amount of pressure to help the valves work. Everything has to move with no friction at all, it will be a nice challenge.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Nov 1, 2013)

Looks like this one is being built from the ground up, made the base and feet.
The materials for this were at hand, I have to have a scrounge around for material for the other pieces. I will stain the wooden base a darker colour.

I already found a small mistake on the drawings, it pays to be careful.





Paul.


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## jwcnc1911 (Nov 1, 2013)

A mistake in Jan's drawings?  Will you describe it?


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## Swifty (Nov 1, 2013)

It relates to the holes in the feet, they specify 3 mm, but a 4 mm screw passes through to fasten onto the aluminium plate that everything is mounted on. I liked the look of the feet protruding out slightly from the timber base, as he shows in the assembly drawing, but if I made them to the sizes on the drawing, they would be hidden underneath. I altered the diameters to get it the way I wanted.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Nov 5, 2013)

No further progress at the moment, I've had the worst cold / "man flu" for several days now. Itching to get back into the garage shortly.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Nov 12, 2013)

Managed to cut out the flywheel blank from some brass plate, using my rotary table, and started to turn it. However, I have been in hospital the last few days having some vascular surgery on my arm, I now have a cut from my inner elbow to my arm pit, don't know when I can start machining again. Maybe I should use the time to do some design work.

Paul.


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## idahoan (Nov 13, 2013)

Sorry to hear about the surgery Paul,

Take care and get well soon!

Dave


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## Swifty (Nov 30, 2013)

I'm still recovering from the surgery on my arm, still very swollen, but I want to get back to machining. I managed to finish the flywheel, so here is a picture of it.





Ready now to tackle the rest of the build, sorry for the long break.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Dec 9, 2013)

I have done most of the work on the cylinder, just have to finally lap a smooth finish in the bores.

Here is the turned blank.




And here is a picture after I turned the grooves in, and getting ready to part off.




Next, I bored the cylinder holes in the mill. The boring bar had a bit too much overhang and caused a bit of vibration as you can see. I have already honed out the chatter marks and will lap a smooth finish shortly.




Here is the nearly finished cylinder block. I only have to machine the air inlet ports in the 2 sides.




Paul.


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## Cogsy (Dec 9, 2013)

Looking very nice Paul. I've always liked flamelickers. I toyed with the idea of building a 4 cylinder horizontal flywheel 'radial' flamelicker as my second build. Maybe I'll revisit the idea once I clear up a few projects.


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## Swifty (Dec 9, 2013)

This flamelicker has 2 different sized bearings and uses 2 of each, they are MR63 and MR105, 3mm and 5mm ID's. I was going to drive to a local bearing suppliers, but decided to check eBay first, I was very happy that I did. I can but 10 of each for A$5.04 total delivered to my door, I can't even start my car and drive to the suppliers for that price. For an average of 0.25 cents for each bearing, I'm delighted. I just have to pop the seals off the couple that I need and wash the bearings out to reduce any friction.

Paul.


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## Nicolas (Dec 12, 2013)

That is looking very good


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## Swifty (Dec 12, 2013)

Hi Nicolas, been a bit busy lately to do much, but I managed to machine a few small bits today. My friend Eddie, who is also a member on this site, dropped in a load of graphite so I can machine the pistons soon.

Paul.


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## AussieJimG (Dec 12, 2013)

That's looking good Paul, and you are lucky to have a supply of graphite. It is messy stuff to turn but the lathe works really smoothly afterwards.

Jim


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## Lawijt (Dec 12, 2013)

That is really a great work. I'am struggling al the way around too build the one cilinder from Jan Ridders.
 But keep the good work going on & I hope you have a great runner.

 Barry


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## Swifty (Dec 13, 2013)

A little bit more work done inbetween interuptions. I now have an aluminium sub base plate.





Some cylinder mounts and a roughed out fuel tank. Jan made his fuel tank from 2mm sheet, not having any available, I made mine from a solid block and I intend to solder the lid on.





And here is a rough assembly of some of the bits.





Paul.


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## Swifty (Dec 14, 2013)

Here is the finished fuel tank, just need to clean off a bit more of the solder around the 2 tubes.





Paul.


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## ELM6061 (Dec 15, 2013)

G'day Paul, been meaning to come on for a look/see and find out how the build is going. Sorry I had to leave in such a hurry the other day. Wish I could have hung around a bit longer, but I am sure you understand.

I am really looking forward to seeing this one come together, as I find the flame licker's very intriguing.

Don't forget to mask up when machining that black stuff.

Eddie


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## Swifty (Dec 15, 2013)

Hi Eddie, I have already used the 4 jaw chuck to turn some oversize blanks, I had the vacuum sucking away the dust while I was working. The round graphite stuck out a bit too much, that's why I cut a few short pieces of the flat stock to use, also I wanted to be economical with the material. Thanks again for supplying the material.

Paul.


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## Cogsy (Dec 15, 2013)

I don't know if the mess changes with different grades of graphite, but when I used it I had the nozzle of the vac mounted close to the chuck and ran it the whole time I was cutting.

There was some deposit on the compound and ways, and a little on the chuck, but nowhere near what I was expecting. I wore a dust mask the first time but it didn't catch a single visible particle so I discarded it (it was a hot day and the mask wasn't helping). In my experience it makes less mess than bronze and is much easier to clean up.


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## Swifty (Dec 19, 2013)

There will be no progress for a short while, I've just had a small hernia repair done and it will keep me out of the workshop for a while.
Thanks for following.

Paul.


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## AussieJimG (Dec 20, 2013)

You will be ok as long as you don't need to change the chucks.
Meanwhile, take it easy and enjoy Xmas.

Jim


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## ELM6061 (Dec 20, 2013)

Best of healing with the knife wound Paul, hope you are back in action soon.
Guessing you have not turned any of the black stuff yet?
Eddie


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## Swifty (Dec 20, 2013)

Thanks Jim and Eddie, getter better each day now, not supposed to lift anything over 2kg for the next month, can't see myself sticking to that for long.

Eddie, I've only roughed out some blanks from the graphite that you gave me, all about 1mm oversize at the moment. I was wondering where I was going to the necessary wick from for the engine, checked out eBay but could not find the right size. I was at the local shopping centre this morning, and there was a woman selling oil burning lamps / room perfume things?. Some of the wicks looked about the right size, so I got talking to her. She had no spare wicks there with her, however she pulled one out from a lamp and sold it to me for 50c, I went away happy.

Paul.


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## ELM6061 (Dec 22, 2013)

G'day Paul, good to read you are on the mend "again". You seem to be in contact with a lot of knife's lately, those kiddy latches on the kitchen cupboards/draws not working? LoL..... 
Reading your post about finding the wick's, my first thoughts were oil burner or candle hobby supplies. Pure Peninsula Honey (871 Derril Rd Moorooduc and not a bad little shop hidden out there. "Yummy Honey" ), I know sell bees wax and Australian made Candles, a long shot but they may have wicks or could get some from their candle supplier. Australian Candle Making (Glaston NSW), Aussie Candle Supplies (Perth), Australian Wax Company (Clayton)).
Seems you have the what you need, some links above that may help otherwise. 
Curious that the wick "size" is so important. Can the flame burn too hot/cold; Surly you can adjust the flame (wick length)?

What fuel do you use Paul, Shellite? 

Looking forward to when you get back on the dials.

Eddie


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## Swifty (Dec 22, 2013)

Hi Eddie,

The tank design uses tubes with 6mm bores, hence the wick size needed. The one I got was a bit large, but will see if I can get it to fit.
I intend to run the burners with methylated spirits, I assume it will give me less smell. Thanks for the links, will chase them up if needed. I am getting much better every day now, so will be back machining once Christmas is over.

Walked into the garage the other day, and noticed a large puddle of water on the floor. The carpet that I stand on at my bench was saturated, and several cardboard boxes were sodden. Could not find where the water had come from, until it dawned on me that somehow the drain on my compressor must have let the condensation in the tank out. I haven't drained it for quite a while, and was using it quite regularly, just how it managed to leak is a bit of a mystery, but I will check it our shortly.

Paul.


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## ELM6061 (Dec 24, 2013)

Great to here the surgery is going better and yes metho should be much cleaner. You may have to ream out the tubes to get the wicks to fit.

It is a strange one, the compressor. Start putting it in nappies!!!! LoL


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## AussieJimG (Dec 24, 2013)

Swifty said:


> Hi Eddie,
> 
> ... the drain on my compressor must have let the condensation in the tank out. I haven't drained it for quite a while, and was using it quite regularly, just how it managed to leak is a bit of a mystery, but I will check it our shortly.
> 
> Paul.



And suddenly there is another job that I need to do.

Jim


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## Swifty (Dec 28, 2013)

I'm keen to get on with this engine build, but first I must check the compressor out, I think that it's time for a new drain plug. I was at a bit of a loose end the other day, so started to wash the lathe and mill down with some hot water and degreaser, I will also get some new gearbox oil and change the headstock and apron oil while I'm at it. Another thing that needs doing, is checking why my lathe coolant pump and light won't work anymore, I think that it's more than just fuses. I never really used the coolant pump, just relied on squeeze bottles. It's best that I fix up everything now, then I can get back to machining.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Dec 31, 2013)

Everything on the lathe is now clean and working. I have started to make a few more small parts, I will post pictures soon. 

I must be getting old, just when I thought all my health problems were getting better, I've now gone and cracked a rib, that's the second one for the year. To make matters worse, I've still got a cough and the rib hurts like hell every time I cough.

Off to the garage now to potter around a bit and see what parts I can make next.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Dec 31, 2013)

Just a couple of more parts, the pivot stand screwed onto the cylinder, on which the valves will pivot, and a pair of flywhell stands.





Paul.


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## Swifty (Jan 4, 2014)

I have machined the Crank Webs now, not having the right flat material, I decided to tackle it a different way. First off, turn some brass to the correct diameter and enoug length for a couple of cranks plus parting off. Next it was into the chuck on the rotary table and machine the profile, plus drill and ream a couple of holes.





Then back to the lathe to part off, being very careful with the alignment of the parting blade, I could part to finished size.





And here we have a pair and a spare of crank webs.





Paul.


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## AussieJimG (Jan 4, 2014)

Well done Swifty

Jim


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## Swifty (Jan 16, 2014)

No work being done lately, it's just too hot. With a run of days over 40C, inside with the aircon on is the way to go.

Paul.


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## ELM6061 (Jan 16, 2014)

Swifty said:


> No work being done lately, it's just too hot. With a run of days over 40C, inside with the aircon on is the way to go.
> 
> Paul.



Agree, just a touch on the warm side Paul.

Have been fixing a couple of swing sets, delivered one yesterday and the second goes out today. While I am glad to see them both gone, not looking forward to setting this last one up today.

So many regions under serious threat from fires, I really feel for them and wish them a safe ride out the other side. Specially my old friends over in Telopia Downs, Kaniva, Lillimur, etc and also the Grampians, Wartook. While it can be hard to do, property can be replaced, but lives cannot. If you are in a fire threat region, stay safe, get out early or if you have the appropriate facilities and wish to stand & fight, good luck but bunker before your path is blocked.

Eddie


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## Swifty (Jan 16, 2014)

Hi Eddie, the fires are certainly something to look out for. We all complain about the hot weather, but a consequence of that is fires which can be catastrophic. Went to bed last night with the smell of smoke in the air, the local volunteer brigades have their work cut out at this time, we have to think about them being out in this heat and having to fight the fires.

Paul.


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## Heffalump (Jan 20, 2014)

Must be one hell of a job trying to get on top of the fires. This build has really caught my eye Paul, thanks for sharing, I can't wait to watch the progress.


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## Swifty (Jan 20, 2014)

Hi Jim, good to see you getting involved in posts. I have started back on this engine now that the weather has cooled down a bit, so stay tuned.

As far as the fires are going, they are still burning but the cooler weather has helped a lot. We've had whole towns threatened, but the wind changed at the last minute and swung the fire away. 

Paul.


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## Heffalump (Jan 21, 2014)

Swifty said:


> Hi Jim, good to see you getting involved I posts. I have started back on this engine now that the weather has cooled down a bit, so stay tuned.
> 
> As far as the fires are going, they are still burning but the cooler weather has helped a lot. We've had whole towns threatened, but the wind changed at the last minute and swung the fire away.
> 
> Paul.


 
Thanks Paul, I'm getting ready to make some swarf today or tomorrow hopefully, so getting as much as I can out of the posts on here!

I'm glad to hear that it's getting cooler.


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## Swifty (Jan 29, 2014)

Hang in there fellers, I'm kept too busy with other things at the moment to get much machining time, plus were due for another few days of stinking hot weather. 

Paul.


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## Swifty (Jan 29, 2014)

Here are a few more bits that I have been working on in brief spurts when the heat and other commitments allow. The brass bit is the pivot that will work the 2 valves, and the others are shafts that connect the valves to the pivot. I should have included a rule in the picture for scale, but the pin in the brass piece is 2.5mm dia.





Paul.


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## gg89220 (Jan 30, 2014)

bonjour
j'ai réalisé ce moteur mais je n'ai pas encore reussi à le faire tourner : Mur:,je vous souhaite plus de chance ,je vais suivre de pres votre realisation


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## Swifty (Jan 30, 2014)

Hi, looks like a great job, too bad that you could not get it to run. It looks like you have aluminium valves, are the pistons aluminium as well? I know that they are difficult to get running, but I will persevere with it when I get it finished.

Paul.


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## AussieJimG (Jan 30, 2014)

Mine was a doorstop but if yours is also a doorstop, it is certainly better looking than mine.

Jim


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## gg89220 (Feb 1, 2014)

bonjour
sur le plan du cylindre sur la vue du haut l'axe de la lumiere d'admission est a 12mm mais sur la vue du bas a gauche l'axe est a 11,5mm ???
vous avez mis quelle cote 12mm ou 11,5mm ?


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## Swifty (Feb 2, 2014)

The poster is asking about the position of the inlet to the cylinder where the flame heat is sucked in. They are correct in pointing out that there is a conflicting size, in one view it shows 13mm minus half slot width, 1.5mm, which gives 11.5mm to centreline, in another view it shows 12mm to centreline. I've machined mine to the 12mm size, but when I check the position of everything around this feature, the correct dimension is 11.5mm. I can't imagine it being critical to the working of the engine.

Paul.


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## gg89220 (Feb 6, 2014)

bonjour
j'ai reussi a faire tourner le mien ,j'ai refait les alesages et les pistons,il faut un minimum de jeu ,je mettrais une video des qu'il sera bien au point


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## Heffalump (Feb 7, 2014)

gg89220 said:


> bonjour
> j'ai reussi a faire tourner le mien ,j'ai refait les alesages et les pistons,il faut un minimum de jeu ,je mettrais une video des qu'il sera bien au point


 
_hello 
I managed to run mine, I redid the bores and pistons, it takes a minimum of play, I'd put a video of it will be well developed_


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## gg89220 (Feb 7, 2014)

bonjour
ça y est j'ai réussi à le faire tourner correctement 
la mise au point est tres delicate :wall:
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/video/avaleur-de-flamme-bicylindres-46.html


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## Swifty (Feb 7, 2014)

Thanks for the translation heffump, I always run it through a translator. The video of the engine is great, I hope that mine runs as we'll. I've been away in Sydney for a few days at a conference, we're just waiting for the airport transfer to pick us up. I will have a bit of catching up to do on the forum when I get back home. 

Paul.


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## gus (Feb 8, 2014)

Hi Paul,

Speedy recovery. Take care. 
 Just came back from Japan.Beautiful weather------11----15 C day time. The day I left Tokyo,the temperature dropped 18 C and snow came. Good food .Put on 2kg. Have 4 kg to shed off. Hopefully the Feb 22---28 Burma Bank fishing trip will help me lose some weight. 
Now building a 4'' R.T. . Hobbing DIY worm gear. After doing hobbing,find it hard to accept I have to cut spur gears tooth by tooth.:hDe:


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## Swifty (Feb 23, 2014)

I haven't forgotten about this build, I've had a lot going on lately. I have made a couple of more parts and will post pictures shortly.

One problem that I have had is with my computer, it was an old windows XP system, and its finally packed up. With Microsoft no longer supporting XP after April 2014, I decided that it was time for a new computer. I'm still setting up my new desktop with Windows 8, so stay tuned there will be more to come.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Feb 25, 2014)

Next parts to make were the connecting rods, the drawing called for 2mm thick brass, not having any this thickness I decided to use some steel plate that I had in the right size. I cut a piece big enough to clamp on the mill table, with a piece of wood as a packer. I then machined the holes required and milled the straight sides down to size.





After cutting out the parts, I machined the tapered sides. A bit of a clean up with some emery, and then into the blackening solution.





And here we have a picture of some of the parts to date.






Paul.


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## Swifty (Mar 11, 2014)

All the parts are now finished and I started to assemble this morning, however I had an issue with some parts clashing and upon checking the drawing I found an error. I will have to rectify it before I can continue with the assembly. I better notify Jan Ridders, as this is the second error on this set of drawings.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Mar 12, 2014)

Well here we are, it's finally assembled, I actually managed to have it running for a short time. But as most flame lickers are notorious to get running, I'm pretty happy to get it running straight away even in short bursts, I will work on it a bit more to fine tune the running. 

I hope that the picture is not too large, I'm still trying to get my head around Windows 8.1 and all my photo software is on my dead computer.






Paul.


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## terryzilla (Mar 12, 2014)

Congrats on your engine.  Can you post problems and fixes you did to the plans.  This engine is on my short list an I don't want build a part and have it be wrong.

Terry


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## Swifty (Mar 12, 2014)

Hi Terry, I will post the fixes to the drawings shortly to assist you and any others thinking of making this engine.

Paul.


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## gg89220 (Mar 12, 2014)

hello 
Congratulations, it is very well machined. 
there is little to be condensation that forms


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## lennardhme (Mar 12, 2014)

Good going,
I have the plans for this engine & your thread will be a great help.
thanks.


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## AussieJimG (Mar 12, 2014)

Good one Swifty, congratulations.

Jim


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## Philjoe5 (Mar 12, 2014)

Nice looking engine there Paul.  CongratulationsThm:

Cheers,
Phil


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## Swifty (Mar 12, 2014)

Thanks fellers, I'm already on to fine tuning this engine. There are a few things that I can tweak that I think will help. There is certainly no friction once the engine warms up, the aluminium cylinder expands enough to provide just a nice drag free fit with the carbon pistons.

Paul.


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## ELM6061 (Mar 13, 2014)

G'day Paul, the little flame licker looks a treat mate, and for it to be a runner straight off the bat, just goes to show your your a true craftsman with an eye for detail.
Glad that carbon is holding up and worked out all right, look forward to seeing it running.

Eddie


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## Swifty (Mar 13, 2014)

Hi Eddie, don't get too excited yet, I still have to get it to run for a sustained period.

Paul.


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## Jyman (Mar 13, 2014)

Nice looking engine, 

Does it get hot to the touch, because its a vacuum engine it might be getting to hot to keep it from making a vacuum. I would try putting a ice cube on the top of it to see if it runs longer.


Sent from my iPhone using Model Engines


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## gus (Mar 13, 2014)

Another great engine built by my Maestro. 

Currently still enjoying putt-putting the H&M engine. H&M parts done and partly assembled. Won't putt putt yesterday when I came back fishing. This morning she putt putt after a second attempt. Will take my time to get H&M going.

How is the weather down there. Here its dry spell with the El-Nino but fishing will be good.  Was good yesterday.I lost two biggies but took home a 3 pounder Grouper. 

Take care.


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## Swifty (Mar 14, 2014)

Terryzilla, seeing that you intend to build this engine, I assume that you have the drawings. The area's that I found problems with are the legs, they should have a hole in the centre to suit a 4mm screw, not 3mm as shown, also if you want to have the legs protrude on the outside as shown on the assembly, the outside diameters should be 30 and 36mm, although I used 34 for the largest. The other problems were with the cylinder, the slot that is the air intake is shown 12mm to the centre of the slot in the side view, this should be 11.5mm. Next one, in the end view of the cylinder, the 2 holes that the valve pivot block screws to are shown as 4mm from the bottom, this should be 3.5mm.

Jyman, I think that you may be on to something there, the cylinder certainly gets hot and could prevent the air from cooling and creating a vacuum. I will have to try your ice idea, I'm using methylated spirits in the burner, maybe there is something else that I could use that burns cooler.

Gus, the weather has started to cool a bit now with the days generally mid to low 20's, great autumn weather. I'm off with a couple of mates next week for a day of fly fishing. We want to explore a river about 2.5hrs away from home, reports haven't been promising but we will give it a good go. It will be great to get away for the day anyway, we always have a good time even if the fish are scarce.

Paul.


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## terryzilla (Mar 14, 2014)

Thanks Swifty, I will mark my plans for when I start.

Terry


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## Swifty (Mar 16, 2014)

gg89220, your engine runs so well, what are you using as fuel on yours. I also noticed in your video that your valves and pistons appear to be aluminium, and that your pistons protrude out the back of the cylinder at the end of their stroke. Were these modifications that you made to get it to run consistently?

Paul.


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## gg89220 (Mar 17, 2014)

hello swifty

I used alcohol 95 ° for my flame swallowers. 
I made the pistons longer to get a better etancheité.les valves and pistons are made of brass. an important point being the closure of the valve just before the piston 180 ° view photo. 
after a few seconds it takes to open and wipe the condensation. 
I put a lot of time to develop the 
good luck


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## gus (Mar 17, 2014)

Swifty said:


> Terryzilla, seeing that you intend to build this engine, I assume that you have the drawings. The area's that I found problems with are the legs, they should have a hole in the centre to suit a 4mm screw, not 3mm as shown, also if you want to have the legs protrude on the outside as shown on the assembly, the outside diameters should be 30 and 36mm, although I used 34 for the largest. The other problems were with the cylinder, the slot that is the air intake is shown 12mm to the centre of the slot in the side view, this should be 11.5mm. Next one, in the end view of the cylinder, the 2 holes that the valve pivot block screws to are shown as 4mm from the bottom, this should be 3.5mm.
> 
> Jyman, I think that you may be on to something there, the cylinder certainly gets hot and could prevent the air from cooling and creating a vacuum. I will have to try your ice idea, I'm using methylated spirits in the burner, maybe there is something else that I could use that burns cooler.
> 
> ...



Hi Paul,

With the dry spell on, fishing been good.
My mates landed 3Kg Javelin which is good eating cooked in Sour Curry.The Javelin gave a great fight with spinner drag screaming away. However I lost mine. Main line broke.:wall::hDe:
This weekend will try out the FADs(aka aritificial reefs made of hollow bricks I put in) during the rising tide.


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## Swifty (Mar 17, 2014)

gg89220, you have done a great job on those carbon impregnated pistons and valves. I will have to get some alcohol and try that in the burner. My engine runs very free, but just doesn't want to run properly with the flame. I even tried putting some ice blocks on top of the cylinder to help with the cooling of the air to create a vacuum, it only helped marginally. Maybe it will turn out to be a static display piece on the shelf.

Paul.


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## Swifty (Mar 26, 2014)

What a frustrating engine I have been fiddling around with the engine making minor mods to it, I even managed to buy some isopropyl alcohol to use in the burner, the only problem there was that the only source that I could find was in a 125ml spray bottle, the price equated out to $60 per litre, as there was no improvement, I will stick to methylated spirits. 

The engine definitely wants to run when the flame is there, but only for a dozen revolutions before I have to spin the flywheel again by hand. I think that I will just put it on the shelf for now and bring it out occasionally to see what I can do to get it to run. I need to get on to a new project that's more constructive.

Paul.


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## gg89220 (Mar 27, 2014)

bonjour
apres quelques tours il faut demonter et essuyer la condensation .

bon courage


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## Swifty (Mar 27, 2014)

_"after a few runs, you must stop and wipe the condensation_

Thanks for that tip, I have been getting condensation, but I wish it would run a bit more.

Paul.


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## gg89220 (Mar 27, 2014)

wipe the condensation back and restarted the engine warm, condensation does not return, it runs without stopping


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## gus (Mar 27, 2014)

Swifty said:


> What a frustrating engine I have been fiddling around with the engine making minor mods to it, I even managed to buy some isopropyl alcohol to use in the burner, the only problem there was that the only source that I could find was in a 125ml spray bottle, the price equated out to $60 per litre, as there was no improvement, I will stick to methylated spirits.
> 
> The engine definitely wants to run when the flame is there, but only for a dozen revolutions before I have to spin the flywheel again by hand. I think that I will just put it on the shelf for now and bring it out occasionally to see what I can do to get it to run. I need to get on to a new project that's more constructive.
> 
> Paul.



That will be a good idea. Even the Webster and Rupnow would not budge on day one but on day two there were some puffs and on the day three, she ran
OK w/o any carb adjustment. However I did give up with the ''Firefly'' which sits on the shelf,Computer Desk reminding me.

Now fiddling with the Gov.weights and spring. Hopefully will get the H&M effect going. Advice seeked. Should I tune the carb very lean or richer so as to get easy engine starting/h&m restarting.


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## Swifty (Mar 28, 2014)

gg8922, thanks for the tips, it does run a bit better once it is warm, and I will definitely wipe off the condensation.

Hi Gus, I haven't quite given up on the flame licker yet, still have a bit more tinkering to do. As far as your Rupnow engine goes, I run mine with the carburettor a bit on the rich side, it seems to run better that way. As I lean the carburettor off a bit, the engine speeds up, but is a bit harder to start. Just bear in mind that I only open the needle valve about 1/4 of a turn.

Paul.


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## Woodster (Mar 28, 2014)

I found a drop of very light oil on the piston skirt helps to maintain the seal around the piston and keeps my flame eaters running well., especially when they've warmed up a bit. Can get a bit messy though.


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## Heffalump (Mar 31, 2014)

Swifty said:


> As I lean the carburettor off a bit, the engine speeds up, but is a bit harder to start.
> Paul.



Choke?  more things to make and tinker with..


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## Swifty (Apr 17, 2014)

I've had a bit of time to think about the engine and plan what to do next with it. There is a slight taper in the bores, but I compensated for this by making the pistons and valves to suit, I now plan to lap out both bores until they are spot on parallel and both the same size. I will then make new pistons and valves, it may not help the running, but I won't know until I do it.

All my time lately has been taken up with selling my mothers house and clearing it out after she had moved to aged care, but this is nearly finished so I will have some spare time again to work on the engine.

Paul.


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