# my attempt to make the steam engine from oldboatguys plans



## ariz (Apr 13, 2009)

hello to all in this great forum!
well, I don't know if this is the right section for this post. probably I can't document every step of the work, because I get some photos only by chance, when I remember to do it... 
and I have nothing to teach to anybody! I'm new to this hobby, this is my second engine, the first being the steam engine from the brian rupnow plans.
but perhaps sharing this work could be interesting anyway, so here there are the pieces I have done till now






 oldboatguys (obg from now) suggested to have these parts realised with lasercut, but I made them with the mill












this is the crankshaft, obg said 'process using laser burned throw plates'... I didn't understand what this means, I made it with lathe and mill from a piece of titanium
I can manage it well with the lathe, but with the mill (X2) is another story!






also the eccentric strap was made of titanium, and was a real pain
another pic of the eccentric 





no problems on the cilynder











nor on the steam chest






I'm here for now, they remain many parts to do 
but the obg's plans are missing of some parts (in fact there aren't the page n 7 and others), so I have to design the parts that are missing

that's all. if I did something wrong in this post (too many pics?), please let me know
if I did something wrong with the engine, let me know too!!! ;D

thank you


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## ChooChooMike (Apr 13, 2009)

Welcome *ariz *! Great start on the engine !! Don't worry about too many pictures. We all LOVE seeing pictures of engines and especially as they are being built 

Do you have a link to the plans we can check out ?

Mike


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## ariz (Apr 13, 2009)

thank you Mike!

sure, you may view the plans here http://www.cauzzi.it/ftp/Oldboatguys_Engine_Plans.pdf


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## RobWilson (Apr 13, 2009)

Great work, keep the photos coming
Rob


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## deere_x475guy (Apr 13, 2009)

Looking great and welcome to the board airz. We diffiently want pictures here!

Edited to add: BTW how does the titainium to machine?


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## ariz (Apr 14, 2009)

thanks

titanium likes high speed, cut and feed. this is the only manner to obtaining good results
if you don't go in this way, the finish is poor
working titanium produces high temperatures, so HSS tools aren't the best choice. go with inserts instead
and it is flammable! I didn't think so, it is a metal, how can it burns? but it burns!
if you machine it with light cut, the fine chip (that seems something like wool) catch fire easily
all these facts regarding the lathe. and IMHO

with the mill I never obtain good results, but my english is too poor to try a description here


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## Paolo (Apr 14, 2009)

Very nice start!!! :bow: Looking great and welcome to the board airz.
Cheers Paolo


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## ariz (Apr 14, 2009)

grazie Paolo
sono felice di vedere un altro italiano sul forum; ammiro i tuoi lavori e le tue capacità, magari ti chiederò consigli in futuro...

while I'm replying to Paolo in italian, I wish add that I converted the measures of the obg's plans to metric, and multiply them for 1,5
I'm not ready for high precision fits, like requested on very small pieces, and I like to see large engines, they seem more... more important to me


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## Paolo (Apr 14, 2009)

Thanks a lot ariz... Maybe we are tracing the route for others Italians enthusiast!!
Cheers Paolo


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## Metal Mickey (Apr 14, 2009)

Benvenuto e vi prego di postare un sacco di foto. Noi tutti possiamo imparare da nessuno, non importa come nuovo!


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## Majorstrain (Apr 14, 2009)

Metal Mickey  said:
			
		

> Benvenuto e vi prego di postare un sacco di foto. Noi tutti possiamo imparare da nessuno, non importa come nuovo!



And the Yahoo Babel Fish translation is *"Welcome I pray and you to mail a bag of photo. We all can learn from nobody, we do not import like new!"*

Hmmmm, I'm not sure that that is 100% correct ??? seems a little odd ;D

I don't speak or read the language, so I had to go the fish.

Phil


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## rickharris (Apr 14, 2009)

Goole translation:


Welcome and please post lots of photos. We all can learn from anyone, no matter how new!


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## Metal Butcher (Apr 14, 2009)

Hi ariz. Your project is going well. I'm following your build with great interest and look forward to your posts.

If I may, I have a question about your crankshaft.

How did you line up the parts and assemble them? I don't see any trace of solder or brazing.

Thanks.

-MB


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## ariz (Apr 15, 2009)

thanks to all 

well, i worked the crankshaft on the lathe (diameter and center hole) and the mill (the other hole) in ONE PIECE, to be sure that everything was perfect, and AFTER I parted it on the lathe again

I saw here in the forum that there are other ways to do crankshafts precisely, but a few weeks ago I didn't know them ???

because the fits are very precise, for now I had not soldered the crankshaft to the shaft, and I'm not sure to do it anyway, because I don't know how titanium will react
probably I'll use some loctite instead


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## ariz (May 4, 2009)

some other parts finished, but I'll post the pics in the next days...

today I worked on these 4 little pieces, and wish to report this experience 






I don't like this type of work, rounding the OD of the link extremity, perhaps because I'm not very good in this performance 

Started with the usual approach






I have learned after numerous errors and reading in this forum that in this situation the climb milling is to avoid like pest
in the pics above, and below, only the left half of the mill plate is safe: if you move your piece (and fingers) to the right, forget them all!






to refine the curve on the inner part of the link I made this set up






and to mill the straight part went in this way






a final grinding with emery paper...






and these are my 4 links: not perfects, but the critical measures (the holes) are ok







in another post someone asked about the missing page (n. 7) in the oldboatguy's plans...
nobody has seen that page, but I suppose that there were the draws for the mounting block of the 2 main shafts, because they are missing
I made them anyway, they are marked with a red arrow in the pics below






I don't know if they are correct, when everything will be connected I'll know


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## Cliff (May 5, 2009)

Hey Ariz;

 Been following your post from day one and I admire your work I have been wanting to build that same engine but I have been holding off on starting tell all the plan's are there but have finally decided to go ahead and start as soon as I get my lathe up and running. but that is another story. I thought what wasn't there I would just make on my own. Being a machinist for thirtysome years I should be able to figure out something I even sent oldboatguy a personal message about those missing plan's but didn't here anything back from him. Cliff


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## ariz (May 6, 2009)

Thank you Cliff
I'm sure that you have the experience to make this and others engine as well

what is the problem with your lathe?

oldboatguy doesn't frequent this forum from a while and nobody of us can reach him

other persons wrote to him for those missing pages, but he didn't reply to anybody

regards


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## Cliff (May 6, 2009)

Hey Ariz

 I have a Smithy Three in one machine that was setting out behind the garage it the bench I built for it and some other things were all covered up out of the weather but some how they got uncovered and due to health issues I couldn't get out there to look after it but things are different now my health issues are in proving to where I can do some things I got the lathe in my garage along with the bench which is ruined so I am getting ready to make a new bench and recondition my lathe so I can use it I got some engine's I want to build I am planning on making a post when I build my bench and rebuild my lathe Cliff.


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## ariz (May 7, 2009)

pleased to hear that your healt goes better

we are waiting for your post about reconditioning the lathe and bench and (after that) on your engines

good luck


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## ariz (May 8, 2009)

disaster today

attempt to silver solder the crankshaft: steel shaft and titanium counterweight

after having thoroughly cleaned the parts, positioned 2 circle of silver near the final position (the pic shows 4 circles, but only 2 were used, to solder first one side and then the other)






after that, applied the flux







then pushed the 2 circle of silver lower







at this point I started to heat the parts, the shaft of steel and the lower counterweight of titanium, as for instructions and like I made a couple of times with others materials, obtaining good results







I repeated the sequence with the other side, and this was the result:







everything seemed ok, so I started to cut the unnecessary part of the shaft. I soldered the shaft in this way to better take the parts in line, instead to solder the 2 part of the central shaft already parted






but the disaster was imminent: as soon as I put the piece on the mill for a light touch to clean the splitted parts, the whole damned crankshaft broke as a cookie :'(






so, in my experience titanium is a metal that doesn't solder
don't know why, but I think to have soldered the parts in the right way. or not?
anyone can make some suggestions about my negative experience?

anyway, after a moment of dejection I decided to join the parts with 'Attak' or 'Loctite'. Then I cut the parts in this way











this is the final result: it isn't so bad, but the silver soldering joint was been preferred






bye


EDIT (a day after):
I suspect that I failed to silver solder the crankshaft because of a wrong flux.
I had not the flux for silver, so I used another flux for brass: I think that this flux works at different temperature, probably at higher temp
May be that a wrong flux was the reason of the mistake?

thank you
best regards
ariz


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## Shopguy (May 10, 2009)

Ariz

I've never silver soldered titanium, however it should work. Couple of comments based on my own experience. When you assembled the crank shaft before soldering were the bores and shafts clean? No oil or dirt allowed. Was there a little bit of clearance between the parts there has to be a space for the solder to wick (flow) into? An interference fit will not generally work. Was there a thin film of flux on the inside of the bores of the crank pieces and the shafts them selves? Without flux the parts will oxidize and the solder will not flow. 

Myself I probably would have drilled a small hole slightly greater in diameter than the solder wire in each of the crank webs, like I was going to use a pin to hold the parts together. Then flux the bores and shafts. After assembling the parts I would put a small pieces of silver solder in the holes I'd drilled then heat. 

It looks like you did managed to get a decent crankshaft in the end. Looks good. Keep at it. 

Regards

Ernie J


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## ariz (May 10, 2009)

Hi Shopguy
well...

_When you assembled the crank shaft before soldering were the bores and shafts clean?_ 
sure, they were

_Was there a little bit of clearance between the parts there has to be a space for the solder to wick (flow) into? An interference fit will not generally work._ 
not much clearance, it was a sort of interference fit

_Was there a thin film of flux on the inside of the bores of the crank pieces and the shafts them selves?_
no, being an interference fit the flux cannot reach the inside of the bore

so, I now know were I mistook the solder process :'(
I'll remember your suggestion (a small hole where to insert the silver wire) for the next time
and obviously I hope to not repeat these errors 

thank you very much!


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## Shopguy (May 10, 2009)

Ariz

Glad to help. Keep up the good work.

Ernie J


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## Seanol (May 11, 2009)

Ariz,
Depending on the titanium you use it will react with atmosphere above 500 degrees F. I don't know if that means silver solder will work or not. I have only ever welded that and uses an inert chamber or a back gas attachment on a TIG torch.
Good luck,
Sean


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## Maryak (May 11, 2009)

Ariz,

Just a thought, but X drilling and pins is another option. The pins can be locktited into position or the ends of the X drilled holes counter sunk and the pins riveted.

Hope this helps ???

Best Regards
Bob


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## ariz (May 11, 2009)

thank you Maryak, Seanol, Shopguy

well, perhaps the option suggested by Maryak is what I can do without problems

but I tried another session of silver soldering this afternoon (before to read your advices)
don't know if it worked or not, tomorrow I'll examine the piece
if also this attempt goes wrong, I'll drill and pins the parts for sure

thank you again


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## ariz (May 23, 2009)

I'm ostinate and I tried to solder those pieces many times without success! 

then they were in such a condition that were useless








so, I made another crankshaft, always of steel shaft and titanium counterweight
this time I made the inner shaft in the way that I have learned here, so this part (2 counterweights and inner shaft) is a single piece of titanium
I turned between centers without any jig, simply a couple of holes at the correct distance











I retained the main shaft of steel, because I was sorry to waste so much titanium 
instead to solder it, I used epoxy adhesive, may be that I'll add a pair of pins

*What do you mean Maryak for X drill?*


added other parts too, here is a test of the steam chest (without the square piston and the cover) and the leverage, it's ok






I'm at 90% now, the only missing parts are the crankshaft connecting rod (to the beam) and the flywheel

if I was less ostinate the engine would be finished now :big:


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## RobWilson (May 23, 2009)

LOOKING GOOD ariz  ;D :bow: not long now
Rob


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## Blogwitch (May 23, 2009)

Ariz,

Could you please explain the reason for using titanium for the crankwebs.

The reason I ask, is that the machined counterweights are there for a reason, and not just to look nice. Unlike in an ic engine, where sometimes specialist materials are required, normal materials are perfectly adequate to take the stresses on this small engine.

The heavier materials used for the webs help to balance the weight of the conrod and piston to reduce vibration and stress on the reciprocating parts.

By using a lightweight material like titanium rather than say steel or cast iron, you are most probably upsetting the balance of the engine, and inducing more stress and vibration into it.

Titanium has a use in all sorts of applications, but I don't think so in the uses you are putting it to.


Blogs


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## Maryak (May 23, 2009)

ariz  said:
			
		

> *What do you mean Maryak for X drill?*



Ariz,

My apologies an X looks like a cross so X drilling is shorthand, (an abbreviation), for CROSS DRILLING or drilling through the diameter of a part.

I should know better, my wife is Russian and so I'm most times aware that English is not everyone's first language. :-[ :-[

Best Regards
Bob


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## ariz (May 24, 2009)

*Blogwitch*, I agree with you, titanium is a bit lightweight for this type of use

the only reason because I used it was that it was the only material readly available in my shed
I have many pieces of 'automatic' steel, but of smaller diameter...

so, I thinked (or better, I hoped) that the engine could work anyway
maybe that I'm wrong

*Maryak*, thank you for your answer, I had supposed that but I wanted to be sure


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## ariz (Jun 12, 2009)

well, the engine is almost finished: the only missing part is the flywheel

but I have sold my X2 mini-mill on ebay a few days ago, so I can't make the flywheel until I will buy a new milling machine...

so, I post the results of my work... the engine runs on compressed air, but it needs a lot of pressure (20 - 30 psi)

I think that it is due to the many leverages between the beam and the piston rod
I remember that on the Brian Rupnow engine that I made, the engine didn't run with the horizontal piston rod guide mounted
here there are so many pieces connected each other that the engine doesn't run easily
but it runs 

the pics and the movies are not of the best quality
I explained why in another post
















<embed src="http://www.cauzzi.it/ftp/MVI_0030.avi" autoplay="false" hidden="false" loop="false" type="application/mediaplayer" wmode="transparent" width="350" heigth="425"></embed>

<embed src="http://www.cauzzi.it/ftp/MVI_0034.avi" autoplay="false" hidden="false" loop="false" type="application/mediaplayer" wmode="transparent" width="350" heigth="425"></embed>


that's all
best regards
ariz


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## RobWilson (Jun 12, 2009)

GREAT LOOKING ENGINE ariz :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: Really nice work ;D
Regards Rob


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## Paolo (Jun 12, 2009)

Very nice job!!! I want to ear the "voice" :big: :big: :big:
Paolo


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## Maryak (Jun 12, 2009)

Ariz,

Great Looking Engine. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## 90LX_Notch (Jun 12, 2009)

Sweet! I like it. Thm: Thm:


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## kvom (Jun 12, 2009)

I small POTM entry here.  :bow:


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## ariz (Jun 12, 2009)

thank you very much... all of you

now I'll prepare my workshop for the new mill
I still haven't bought it, I think to do it in the next days

while I'm waiting, I'll clean the shed and the lathe
I wish to trim it too, any suggestion is welcome


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