# BAZMAK-Diary of a Myford ML7 lathe restoration



## bazmak

I have put the simplex on the back burner and having seen some myford lathe 
restorations on Utube it sent my spider senses tingling.Simply for the excercise i sold
the chinese 7x14 lathe and capstan and bought on e bay for the same money
a Myford ML7.Should arrive in the next few days.I dont really have the room 
to use it at this stage so it purely to strip down and restore to keep me busy
I have had a no of Myfords over the years from an ml10 to super 7 with gearbox and have great affection for them.Not here to discuss the pros and cons and yes they are now considered expensive for a non precision toolroom machine.But for the many thousands and still running after more than 70yrs
BOY THEY SURE GOT THINGS RIGHT
On Utube there is a 10 part restoration by Geoffrey Croker Well done and very proffessional right down to a bed regrind.I dont think i will go that far but lets see. Reminds me of my last myford i sold before retiring to OZ. I could sit and look at it for hours not wanting to get it dirty.Anyway for people with Myfords
your comments and input most welcome as we see where we are going


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## bazmak

While i wait for the lathe to arrive i have to get started and make something
Decided to make a pair of riser blocks.I have seen the advertised for 1000 pounds (surely a mistake). Form the uk supplier the are priced at 100 pounds
still expensive maybe i can get some free.They are quite necessary to raise the lathe for easier cleaning etc although the original cast ones still keep the same 
fixing centres of 117mm,its an advantage to increase the footprint and extend the fixing centres.I di not want to fabricate something tacky nor did i want to pay 100 pounds so i used materials to hand and put some effort into making them look the part as castings I Used 50x50 rhs with 50 x 50 x 8 angle end caps.Fully welded with rthe welds radiused off with a router,yes you heard a router bit. Cost me nothing Waiting for the lathe to arrive


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## goldstar31

The price of the riser blocks is only because the supplier  is out of stock but is keeping the listing 'going'

Funny enough, I found the top slide and the saddle etc from an old ML7. 

I'm intrigued about  how the Glacier lead indium headstock bearings might be replaced

Keep up the good work

Cheers

N


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## JCSteam

Will follow this thread with interest 
I look forward to seeing how you progress, and the riser blocks look great. Youll need another nut on those though so you can level up the bed. I went at it with just threaded rod and nuts, though a solid piece of metal drilled and tapped through will certainly be more useful


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## goldstar31

JCSteam said:


> Will follow this thread with interest
> I look forward to seeing how you progress, and the riser blocks look great. Youll need another nut on those though so you can level up the bed. I went at it with just threaded rod and nuts, though a solid piece of metal drilled and tapped through will certainly be more useful



It's a bit more than that- as Baz will already be aware off.

The correct name is metacentric height problems and the horrendous strain on mounting bolts.  
N


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## bazmak

If the lathe turns a taper then this indicates bed twist,only if the lathe is bolted down to a substancial base can the twist be removed by adjusting the riser mounts.There is no need if the lathe is simply bolted to a table.If it is bolted to a rigid structure then the original risers can be adjusted to take out the twist,alternatively the feet at the tailstock end can be shimmed.If needed then 
i have the option of shimming or make special riser screws to mimic the Myford originals.Too far down the road to worry about at this stage,and as i said the twist cant be removed unless the lathe is bolted down to a rigid structure
I have no plans to run the lathe just yet so have no knowledge of the amount if any of bed twist.First will a strip down,clean etc and make or replace parts as necessary.Any advise along the way is most welcome.The fun is in the taking part


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## DJP

The fun is in taking apart. 

Enjoy your project. I'm not going to disturb my Super 7 until something goes wrong which may be never.


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## bazmak

i never stripped down a Myford while i had them up and running
Now i have the sieg lathe and mill,most things are possible
I want to get very intimate with the private parts of lathe and 
hopefully see a phoenix rise out of the ashes


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## bazmak

While waiting for the lathe i decided to make the leveling screws even though i dont need them at the moment.$ no 35mm dia x 6 thk tapped m8
Knurled capstan style leveling nut,M8 s/s studs and wiznuts. Hark to the sound of the doorbell and the lathe has arrived overnighht from Melbourne
I did not expect it till next week. Time to unpack and inspect. Fingers crossed


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## bazmak

A couple of hours this afternoon unpacking and mounted to my new riser blocks
bolted to my temporary wheeled trolley.Not as heavy as i remember and with the motor etc removed i managed the lift by myself,i can now wheel between the shed and garage. Stripped down to the bed,the headstock,tailstock and carriage etc i will treat separately as sub assemblies.First impression are good
no obviouse missuse,bearings and ways appear good so i am looking forward
to spending some time on it. The paint appears a little light for the original Myford so will get something mixed at the local hardware store to a suitable colour slightly darker grey.Hopefully to get it somewhere near original
Suppose i could grind and restamp the serial no and paint it green (joke)


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## goldstar31

Regarding paint colors, I settled for RAL 7011 which is a standard colour and not far from the vastly more difficult to get and  expensive Myford one.

It's called Iron Grey

Earlier, I was commenting on the possible imbalance of the Myford S7B on its stand. Mine is on a 'Myford?' stand and if not bolted down, rocks about like a pea on a drum.  

So I now look forward to your comments on your new venture

Regards

N
'


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## Hopper

My son and I just got done refurbishing a 1957 ML7. An interesting project. I was going to say the pics of yours make it look like it will not need much restoration, but your later post on the 2 or 3 thou bed wear says that very clearly. Where were you measuring? I have an original Myford document on their reconditoning service and they recommend a maximum of five thou wear measured vertically on the front shear in the high wear position about six to twelve inches from the headstock end, and a maximum of three thou in the horizontal plane measuring from the front vertical surface of the front shear to the rear vertical surface the saddle runs on. 

Ours had about 10 thou there, but luckily was a narrow guide model (pre-1971) so it was a simple matter to add a piece of gauge plate to the rear surface of the saddle and convert it to "wide guide" using the unworn machined surface on the rear shear. Worked a treat. When we took a test cut on a six inch long bar out of the chuck, no measureable taper right off the bat. (And that was with the lathe loosely bolted to the bench using a couple blocks of wood for risers! So much for precision bed twisting blah blah.)

The saddle seemed to have worn much more than the bed. We lucked out and got a good secondhand one with a reground cross slide to match from a guy who converted his not very worn lathe to the long cross slide off a Super 7. But if you have a mill you can remedy the wear on the saddle if excessive. 

Headstock bearings are pretty much infinitely "scrape-able". The white metal is about a quarter inch thick so you can rescrape them for ever. If they get down too far, you just mill or even file a bit of metal off the joining faces where the shims go and carry one. 

Another thing to look for is the H frame that carries the countershaft gets bend out of shape from lazy owners using only one adjuster screw to tighten the belt tension. Bent back into shape with a long bar through one bearing in the vice. The sintered bronze bushes for the countershaft and the carriage traverse mechanism and leadscrew etc are all commonly available at bearing suppliers. 

It's proved to be a nice little machine in use and worth the effort to restore. 

Have fun with yours. Looking forward to following your progress.


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## goldstar31

Following 'Hopper's' excellent resume, may I add mine?

If the bed is worn- which is likely due to age, it will be some 6" from the chuck end.  Access to a Lumsden Blanchard machine will make quick work of the upper surface and will be surprisingly inexpensive.
It doesn't compare with a proper sideways grind but will save hours with a scraper.

Again, as Hopper says, there will be wear on the narrow guide on the saddle but provided that the Number 1 shear wear  is built up with one of the Devcon or whatever plastics, the unused rear Number 4 shear can be used.
Martin Cleese wrote this up in the years gone bye and I wrote it up in Model Engineer as well in PostBag of my experiences then.
 Again, there could be wear under the saddle and today, it can be built up again with Devcon or whatever but mine on the present Super7B is Turcited- and none the worse for its years.

I think that most who have gone down a similar road, will agree that it takes longer to write up than do.

Hopefully, I hope my comments will help

Norman


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## bazmak

Had a couple of good days.Had some epoxy enal mixed to Guild grey at the local hardware store and i am happy with the colour.With 3 coats of primer
and an 18 hr dry time i am not totally happy with the finish and will try to
improve,but i have no spray equipment so its a brush job.One thing i did learn
was to apply a light coat of car polish before handling its easier to clean after
I am happy with the bed,there is a max of 4 thou wear in the dreaded spot
and everything else is within a couple of thou,so it hasnt been abused
Assembled and fitted the carriage,cross slide,compound slid tailstock and leadscrew. The slide feed screws and nuts were OK as was the leadscrew and halfnuts.So very pleased there.What will need replacing are the oilite bushes at both ends of the leadscrew about 5/6 thou slop.Removed about 4 thou on the saddle gib plates and i now have a silky smooth fit in the work area.Tight at the
tailstock end.Next will be the headstock.Loving it


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## Hopper

Looks good. The grey seems (on screen) to look like the original. Is "guild grey" an actual color they can mix up? 
With four thou of wear on that front shear on this early narrow-guide model, it really would be worth your while to do the wide guide conversion at some point and use the unworn back of the back shear to guide the carriage. All you have to do is buy a strip of ground gauge plate 1/16" thick and 1/2" wide and put it in the .030" wide gap between the carriage and shear at the rear. Hold it in place with two 3/16" dowel pins and Loctite. It leaves a .030" gap on the front shear so no more guiding from the worn surface. You might have to mill 30 thou off the leadscrew mounts so it moves over with the carriage. It brings the lathe back to as-new guidance, rather than a four thou taper over that section (actually 8 thou on the diameter.) and is dead simple to do.


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## deverett

A worthwhile improvement for the leadscrew is the thrust bearing modification a la Hemmingway http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Leadscrew_Thrust_Bearing___Myford_Series_7.html
and also the cross slide leadscrew thrust bearing mod a la Arc Euro Trade http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catal...yford-ML7-Cross-Slide-Bearings-Set-MYFML7CSBS

Dave
The Emerald Isle


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## bazmak

Thank you Hopper ,i will finish the basic rebuid for now and get the lathe running before i may start stage 2 of mods.Thought about using the the unworn rear way as you suggest possibly in tandem with the front ? While you are there
any advice for supplies of oilite bushes or should i go direct to myford supplier in UK
I got a set of colour pallets from the local hardware store and held them to the screen of the myford grey paint supplier
The one i chose was Guid Grey by Dulux and it seems fairly close.Its slightly darker than the old paint which is probably not original
and the myford paint seems darker and more blue but i am happy with it.So i have the std formula if i want more.May try a paint spayer at
a later stage and spend some time filling and sanding and improving the finish to the main areas
Thank you deverette for the mod on the leadscrew,by coincidence while thinking about the leadscrew bushes i was looking at fitting
a couple of thrust bearings.The leleadscrew shoulder and collar does take a lot of stress.I had in mind to replace the 2 collars with machined new ones to accept a pair of cheap thrust bearings from china.It would be an improvement but maybe spend the money and get the official parts
Any cheaper changes i may try to make i would only do if i did not stray from the original.Replacement bearing collars would suit then i could return to original if requd Also seen a myford mod for replacing the dials on the cross and compound slides with adjustable micrometer dials ?
As i said i have had a no of Myfords all well used but i have never stripped down and modded.I am enjoying it and learning all the time.Thinking of building another small shed just to set up the Myford and may even buy another.I paid $1500 for this one and had a chance to get a super 7b for $2500


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## Hopper

No need to try to make it dual guide. The later Myfords (post-71) used only the rear shear as a guide. I think Radford remachined and scraped and carried on getting the second surface to match but many others since, myford included, have just used the rear shear with perfect success. 
The resettable dials is a good mod. G H Thomas in one of his books has the full drawings for them. 
Yes they are a nice old lathe to work on. Quite simple buy quite cleverly designed.
I bought all the Oilite bushings for mine from the local bearing shop, BSC or BCS I think it's called. Or there's Consolidated Bearings. They were all standard sizes, some longer than needed so just cut them down in the lathe.


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## goldstar31

bazmak said:


> any advice for supplies of oilite bushes or should i go direct to myford supplier in UK



I've just been out to get some bearings for my Super7-------which RDG the owners of Myford don't stock. :hDe:

I have a somewhat worn in parts a Mark 1Super7B which has one of these earlier clutches which RDG simply doesn't want to know- nor does it want to supply me with the front headstock oiler for the Mark1. 

The original bearings are needle roller ones and-the replacement ones are plain phosphor bronze ones of which I got. fromRDG and will not fit. 

I have them- I took the whole unit to a local firm- Bill Quay on Tyneside and came home with THREE needle roller ones for a £5 each.
No he didn't have the Imperial red fibre washers but the metric ones from a plumbers will fit- if I carve them on the Sieg.

Nothing is perfect and my quest for a new cord for my smaller Honda mower is--- another day and I want a round belt for my Quorn. I think Chronos sells it but I probably will buy some thinner stuff for my Universal Pillar Tool.

Oddly, Barry, a few yards away, I used to take ML7 beds to get Blancharded.


So shop locally--First.

So it hasn't really snowed yet and I made a further mile or two and saw a TRilever ML7 with a gearbox. No, enough for the day is the fulness thereof.

Keep posting

N


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## Herbiev

I normally get my oilite bushes from CBC bearings at Morphetvale.


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## bazmak

Thanks Herbie will give them a try when i size them up
Well another productive day.Stripped down the headstock everything
fine and pristine including new bull gear.The white metal bearing were practically new with only one fine score line.I think this lathe has had a makeover some time in the past. Along with a couple of other items i cleaned,sanded,primed and put on a finish coat of paint to dry overnight
While waiting for the paint to dry i looked for something else and i saw the 6"
4 jaw ind chuck.Way too big for the Myford.I was looking reasa
















ntly for a 5"
for the sieg C4 so i disasembled will refurbish and make an adaptor plate to suit
the sieg . The Myford adaptor plate i will machine to fit the sieg chucks and collets. Now thats a good side product of free goodies.The chuck is Aussie
made and i will try to turn it into an item.Few knocks and dins but all the jaws threads and screws are like new. Will continue while i am waiting for more paint to dry


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## goldstar31

Snow is here and chaos to come.
Idle thoughts of a now idle fellow but:-

The standard independent 4 jaw on a Myford is 6". There is a smaller one for the ML10-- and I have both! Indeed, they have integral Myford threads hence no backplates.
returning to  replacing the bearings, the handbook of the ML7 is on the 'net and it will give the sizes of the bearings as well as the trade name ( not Myford) to go on.

Incidentally, RDG does sell Myford taps and dies- shouts of hurrah.  Warning though-- don't be fooled about using the nearest Unified tap and die as these are 60 degrees and not 55TPI. Yea, yea- voice of sad experience!

Swopping about between our Myfords and  the Siegs, I should mention that RDG sells a Myford nose thing that fits the Sieg. Probably worth a punt? For me, I can use my ER25 collets on both machines-- sort of willy nilly.

Hope this helps a bit

Cheers

N


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## bazmak

Just making do with what i have.I had a 6" myford chuck,light weight and slimline,recessed cast body and inbuild threaded nose.Very nice and expensive
When you have a heavy chuck + backplate its too heavy and puts exessive
strain,weight on the front white metal bearing. And i needed a larger 4 jaw for the sieg SC4  8' x 20".Should be more suited. The myford backplate i will machine
down to suit chinese  4" chucks and my er 32 collet chuck should work out well TBC

PS can anyone confirm the sizes of the oilite bearings for each end of the leadscrew and the layshaft.Im going to call in at a local supplier to see if 
they have anything. I need 7/16 id, 5/8" id and 3/4" id i think not sure of the od as i havent taken them out.Anyone out there in the next 10 hrs Thanks


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## goldstar31

Baz

I've been through my ML7 Official Manual and neither bearing is listed as such.  What 'might' be a help is trying to identify the 'CT' bearings listed in the. back of the  manual for repairs etc

I kept hitting Metric sizes from UK suppliers- bloody useless as you will agree.

Clearly,  your bearings will be ordinary Imperial fractions and can be guessed with a Vernier----------- as my supplier did yesterday!

As a NB You could have two diameters of leadscrew. Cleeve had a metric one as well, so check.

Again, you are possibly right about the weight of your chuck on the headstock front bearing.  Cleeve wrote of a fixed lathe bushing steady. Do you ha ve a copy of this already?

Sorry, ALL that I have left is a Long cross slide, its feed screw and the top slide. The odds are- big guess- that the ML10 might just have the bearings identical so tell me the diameter of your own leadscrew and my 10 is sitting here--waiting until the snows melt!

Cheers

N


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## goldstar31

The hand typed manual in French does show the bearings BUT the reference is only for the Myford identification number which is about as useless as an ashtray on a motor bike

At least, I've come out of the thing with the offer of a new chuck and a lot of non ferrous stuff to play with. Vive La Difference 

N


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## bazmak

Thanks Norm,i went to a local bearing supplier suggested by Herbiev and though not in stock they can be ordered.Price was a shock over  $120
for 8.Will wait to rempove them and check sizes before making a decision
I am having thoughts of making a new brkt for tailstock end of the leadscrew
to incorporate a ball race and a couple of thrust races.Plenty of time
Had a couple of hours today so reassembled the 6" chuck,made an adaptor plate from an old cast iron grate,just the right size and fitted the chuck to the sieg C4.It even looks too big for the 8" lathe.Also realized the chuck could not really be used on the Ml7 as it overhangs the bed gap and the jaw would have to remain inboard of the body. Very pleased and i have a spare myford adaptor plt to fit the chinese chucks and collets to


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## goldstar31

Barry


I'm appalled at the price.  Am I correct that you still have family in the UK who could send bearings out to you?
Sadly, I'm in that hopeless insurance position with only 2000miles allowed for me to drive. So getting out and about is --LIMITED.

But I can help as the phone etc are still OK

Keep in touch. I'm only old

N


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## b4dyc

Might be worth looking at Simply Bearings? They will ship to you. 
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Products-Bronze+and+Wrapped+Steel+Bushes/c4747_5234/index.html


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## Herbiev

$120.  A bit over the top. I would expect gold bushes for that price


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## bazmak

Surprised me too Herbie from 12 to 22 dollars each.I am currently looking at alternative on all fronts


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## GLCarlson

bazmak said:


> Surprised me too Herbie from 12 to 22 dollars each.I am currently looking at alternative on all fronts



Have you looked at Amazon? Maybe not a great option where you live, but oilite bushings as you describe are in the 2-4 USD range unless I've misunderstood what you're looking for.

If you could identify the bushings you need (exact sizes ID, OD, length) I'd be quite happy to purchase here in the states and ship at cost.  Shipping might be outrageous, don't know, but that would be easily determined- likely international parcel post would work. PM me if you want to pursue.

You might also consider buying a foot or so of aluminum bronze and making your own. Great bearing material, wears forever. A stinker to machine though. Knife edge polished tools work.


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## bazmak

Thank you Gl Carlson,US prices are cheaper but postage can be horrendous
Looking at all options Still havent removed the old ones or confirmed sizes etc
will keep in touch. If you wish to check the approx price and postage costs
i would appreciate it.Approx sizes are 
5/8 id x 7/8 od x 3/4 lg  2 off
7/16 1d x 5/8 od x 1/2 lg 2 off
3/4 id x 7/8 od x 1" lg 4 off
Regards barry


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## goldstar31

Barry

Would you like me to cost it out too?

Regards
N


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## Hopper

Sounds bloody expensive for those bushings. I don't remember how much i paid for mine but I remember thinking they were refreshingly cheap. And certainly cheaper than the genuine Myford parts. . I got mine from BSC who I think have a shop in Lonsdale somewhere? They were not genuine Oilite brand, just generic sintered bronze bushings. Some I got longer ones and parted off rings the right length, getting several bushings out of one. 
Can't remember leadscrew bushing diameters off hand but from vague memory they were the diameter of the leadscrew ID, so 5/8" I think and 1/16" wall thickness, so 3/4" OD.

Paintwork looks good. Me and paint don't get along together at all, so I'm envious. I did manage to highlight the MYFORD lettering on the bed and cover in red without getting paint all over the place. Used a tiny cutting in roller from Bunnings, about 25mm diameter and 50mm long and ran it gently over the top of  the raised letters. Worked a treat.


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## bazmak

Just going out to shed to fit the motor and hopefully get her running
There is a good 10 part restore of the Myford Ml7 on Utube and he shows the use of a dabber
which i will try. Dont like the red or cream will try black
to match the knobs and handles etc.Top coat of paint is dry after 24 hrs but is still soft and damages easily so i put the parts out in the sun while i do other things


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## bazmak

As previos posts,this lathe has been looked after/refurbed in the past and most
main areas are in good nick.Main white metal bearing were almost new so have not had many problems. The first part that required replacing was the countershaft.Badly worn 0.7485/0.7425". But its easy to make a new one
The oilite bushes were worn 2/3 thou giving me about 10 thou. slop
I went down to my steel supplier with my trusty micrometer (they dont know
what precision ground bar is) and measured up the options.Settled on a piece
of 3/4" stainless steel 0.7495" dia. Made a new counter shaft and with the slight misalignment between brg it became a perfect running fit with NO play
So will leave the old oilite bushes in for now and see how we go. I could not have got it any better if i tried


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## bazmak

Spent a couple of days sanding and painting the remaining covers/guards
and refitted all the outstanding items Cleaned motor and pullys etc before
powering up. Runs as sweet as a nut. Will do a short video when i make 
my first chips.Which will be machining the spare adaptor plate to fit Sieg
chucks and collet set. Meanwhile i have a few bits and bobs to make 
including simpler thumb screws etc to the covers.Also next job is to remove the leadscrew and bearing brkts to clean up check and paint etc.Also need to determine theextent of wear on the oilite bushes and do i need to replace them
Have in mind to make a new brkt at the tailstock end to incorporate thrust brgs


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## Hopper

She's looking real nice.


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## bazmak

Had a pleasant couple of days.Last main job was the leadscrew and oilite bushes. The leadscrew was fairly worn ave about 4 thou at both ends and the oilite bushes about 5 thou. About 10 slop.Not good,and the proffessional option was to replace the leadscrew and bushes.But wait maybe i could take the cheap way out and at least extend the life for a few yrs. Success.At the hstock end i made a new extended bronze bearing and the same at the tailstock end
At the tailstock end i polished the worn leadscrew down from 7/16" (0.437)
to 11mm (0.433) ordered 2 no 11mm thrust bearings from china and made a new full length bronze bush as i have an 11mm H7 reamer.Perfect running fit
Premade 2 new collars/housings ready to finish job off  Many thanks













 to all offers of help with sourcing oilite bearings but they will no longer be needed and with the money saved i may treat myself to a Myford oil gun


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## bazmak

Next job was to rough machine down in the Sieg lathe ,the 5" Myford adaptor plate from the 6 " chuck to suit the 4" chinese range of collet chucks etc
Finish turning will obviosely done on the Myford and hopefully with Video


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## bazmak

Going thru my box of dwindling items that came with the lathe,i cleaned and refitted the threading indicator and the bed way wiper. Made and fitted a new detent pin,spring assy to the 4 way tool post. Fitted a couple of 8mm tools at centre height.All works great and ready for turning.
Also saw the 4" 3 jaw chuck its a Pratt Burnard so i stripped it all down
The jaws, scroll ,rack and pinion etc were all in excerlent condition but main
body had been abused. Someone had overtightened one of the adjusting gudgeon screw result was a small crack over one corner ,not a problem could
be left but the chuck was excerlent quality and worth saving so i ground out
a small divot over the crack and put in a stitch of weld. Fully dissasembled
clean up, oiled and refitted etc and the jobs a good one.Later on i can true it up
So far additional freebies from the bought lathe is
A 6" 4 jaw chuck fitted to the Sieg lathe
A 4" Adaptor plate to fit chinese chucks to the Myford
A 4" Pratt Bernard to fit the Myford
Still to go at,a 9" faceplt and a 4" catchplt


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## goldstar31

Obviously, I'm following the build but what intrigued me most was how you were repairing broken chuck screws.
I inherited a 4 jaw Myford  with all 4 screws cracked.  How did you do the repairs please?  Probably it is a job that a squirt from a Mig would suffice.

Cheers

N

With a vast increase of heat-- 6 degrees C, I've started the Myford Super7 MARK ONE clutch repair


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## bazmak

Morning Norm,i havent repaired any screws its too difficult the body of the chuck had a crack i just put a blob of weld on it and cleaned it up
If the screws are broken then so is the chuck.Tomorrow im ready to make some chips on the Myford.


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## goldstar31

Isn't a chuck made from spheroidal graphitic cast iron.  Not easy to weld, perhaps brazing would be easier.

The screws on the my chuck jaws are pretty well strained. 

Interesting problem ? Better concentrate on the present ones?

Whatever, I look forward to your exploits about when the wheels go round.

Regards

N


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## bazmak

Yes the body SCI and as you say not easy to weld.Brazing involves too much heat and not easy to do to a large mass.MMA will simply stick the parts together which is all that was reqd.Cannot get a structural weld as you 
rightly say.Mend and make do as my mother used to say.Alas in this day and age its throw away and replace


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## bazmak

https://youtu.be/6Pg1T924gMo

Video of the first machiningg on the chuck adaptor plt


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## bazmak

Made chips on the Myford.Very pleased it runs smooth and turns a nice finish
Have to get used to the handle orientation etc and its too cramped in my shed
so i am looking at putting a 2m x 1m shed alongside just to house the lathe
It worked well even though its the wrong height,not bolted down and only
mounted on my my temp wheeled trolley.Fitted the oilers and sussed how they work,cleaned up the last few items and trial fitted.I also highlighted the raised names etc in black to match the handles.I prefer it to red or cream. Now to look for other mods to do


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## Hopper

bazmak said:


> View attachment 93991



Isn't that a Grip-Tru chuck with those extra fine adjusting screws next to the chuck key holes? Very good score if it was. They are expensive even secondhand and very very handy to have.


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## bazmak

Yes it is its the first one i have owned.All the innards were in very good condition and the body cleaned up nicely.Someone had overtensioned one of the adjusting gudgeon pins/screws and the corner had a slight hairline crack
It could have been left as is but i put a stitch weld on it and tidied it up
Havent got round to adjusting concentricity yet but you can see its out
More fun.As you say a good score


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## bazmak

After a visit to my local hardware store this morning i came back with
9 sheets of colourbond fence panelling x 2m high and 20m of 40x25 rhs
Fitted a 2m x 1m footprint of 40mm thk and 400sq pavers and started
the frames and structure. As you can see its the remaining space in my
garden with the clothsline sandwiched between the 2 sheds.Looking good


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## bazmak

Not a lot of progress to see but a good half days work.Finished the sides
and connected top and bottom across the front. Front frame and doors to finish
Fitted the 30mm thk laminate workbench and picked up the translucent sheets
Another couple of days should see the Myford home and housed.Hinged doors may take a couple of days.Once i can start up the lathe i can use my test
bar to check concentric etc and set the pratt burnard chuck


----------



## bazmak

Another half day hard graft.Is it me or do we just slow down as we age
Translucent roof finished .Front frame finished and Myford housed
Just got back with most things i need to finish over the weekend
Pavers to finish the floor and rubber 5 bar tread matting to cover
Tube and hinges for the doors.Only things then will be locking door handle etc
then i can bolt the lathe down and use my homemade MT3 test bar to check
the spindle alignment etc. I knew it would come in handy


----------



## DJP

I'm sure that this will work but I would feel better if there was a solid support under the centre of your work table. It just looks too likely to sag to vibrate.

I do envy your ability to create an outdoor workshop where climate isn't an issue. Winter is ugly and your roof panels would collapse under snow weight in Canada.

One more thought would be to ensure chips of steel do not track beyond this shed enclosure as they will rust in the rain and ruin your walkway beside house. I did some outdoor grinding one year to make this discovery.

Take care.


----------



## bazmak

Thank you for your input.I intend to fit a leg/legs to support the table but may want to make them bolt on/removeable.The 30mm thk laminate worktop has
a 50 x 25mm rhs support under at the front and the table has 2mm deflection
over 2m at the moment.Lots of shelving etc to sort out but at the moment its nice to have a clear uninterupted space
No snow loads here and i like the translucent sheets for extra light,workd well
on my other shed main disadvantage is it gets too hot in summer,but when its 40oc its too hot to work anyway.I do get a few chips with the other shed but they dont cause any concerns with the colour/type of paving and i have a small 
vacuum cleaner to tidy up.Will sort out those problems when i start to use the lathe. The basic design of the shed is to lay additional 40mm thk pavers on top of the existing.The frame sits on them and the sheets of cladding go over the sides and project to existing level that makes the floor watertight and i will fit a rubber flooring sheet over. Rainfall here is only 500mm per year and is not a problem.Just having breakfast before i go out to finish the doors. Regards barry


----------



## bazmak

Well another good day.Made and hung the doors.Fitted hardware etc
Finished the last pavers and laid the rubber matting.Shed is now at lockup
stage,just as it started to rain. Should give me a check for leakage before
i start finishing the inside with shelving ,power points and lighting etc


----------



## MRA

I can just imagine being stood at that here in Manchester, with diagonal rain coming in from left or right and dripping off the end of my nose


----------



## bazmak

Being from Leeds and having worked in Manchester lots i know that Manchester
is known for its football not its weather.I remember Leeds beating Man U 1-0
in fog so thick that no one saw Bobby Collins score.Had to passed by on the roarof the Leeds fans. So if you can imagine a lovely summer day about 20/25c
then thats what it like for 8 months of the year here.When using my woodworking machines i work outside and on the empty block next door


----------



## Wizard69

bazmak said:


> Being from Leeds and having worked in Manchester lots i know that Manchester
> is known for its football not its weather.I remember Leeds beating Man U 1-0
> in fog so thick that no one saw Bobby Collins score.Had to passed by on the roarof the Leeds fans. So if you can imagine a lovely summer day about 20/25c
> then thats what it like for 8 months of the year here.When using my woodworking machines i work outside and on the empty block next door



That hurts as I look out the window at all the snow on the ground.    If I want to paint something it basically has to wait until summer.

By the way your restoration looks dandy.    I spent a few years just out of high school working with mechanics rebuilding industrial machines.   While a good learning experience for the most part you only made the machines look good enough.   Your lathe reflects far more care and love of machinery, keep up the good work.


----------



## pp2076

bazmak said:


> Being from Leeds and having worked in Manchester lots i know that Manchester
> is known for its football not its weather.I remember Leeds beating Man U 1-0
> in fog so thick that no one saw Bobby Collins score.Had to passed by on the roarof the Leeds fans. So if you can imagine a lovely summer day about 20/25c
> then thats what it like for 8 months of the year here.When using my woodworking machines i work outside and on the empty block next door


Eyup sithee. I'm from Leeds myself (Middleton)


----------



## bazmak

I served my apprenticeship at Forgrove at the top of Dewsbury rd near the Tommy Wass pub.,and at the bottom of Middleton Hill.
Middleton famous for the den of iniquity at the top called the Middleton Arms
And the steam railway preserved line and workings.Many a ride taken on it
but not many pints at the pub.Too rough for me


----------



## bazmak

Made and fitted a splashback and shelf to the rear of the lathe.Fitted an additional timber roof purlin and a centre support leg for the bench
Made a new switch mounting brkt and fitted a double power point
Bolted down the lathe.Machined a test piece using the QCTP,it works well
Lathe was about 4 thou out over 6" so i got it within a 1/4 thou.Like those capstan leveling nuts. Also set the Pratt Burnard chuck but could only get it to 2 thou. I think there needs to be more play between the mounting spigot and recess for it to move more.Any comments welcome as its a first for me
I was going to make a draw bar for my homemade MT3 test bar but realised the Myford has only a MT2 in the headstock so i held between collet and tailstock centre.TS is about 2/3 thou low but easily got it to 1 thou front to back
Now waiting for the thrust bearings to arrive from China so i can finish off the 
leadscrew.Then i may try some screwcutting .W



















ith low speed and high torque
thru the backgears should be much easier than the C4


----------



## pp2076

bazmak said:


> I served my apprenticeship at Forgrove at the top of Dewsbury rd near the Tommy Wass pub.,and at the bottom of Middleton Hill.
> Middleton famous for the den of iniquity at the top called the Middleton Arms
> And the steam railway preserved line and workings.Many a ride taken on it
> but not many pints at the pub.Too rough for me


Never been in either. 
Too rough for the authorities apparently as it has been demolished.
 Ileft Leeds as a 18 year old in 1973


----------



## goldstar31

Sorry Baz but I didn't want to upset you about the MT3 test thing

I really think that the possible alternative is a MT3 to MT2 jumper.

I found one in my 'museum for white elephants'

My proper one  i.e. MT 2, was ground from a scrap reamer with a MT2 shank.

I suppose that you have the obligatory  bar with two rings to machine?

So now to the two spirit levels? 

I'm in a worse state= lost one hearing aid, and with macular debenture firmly confirmed, - Woe is Me.


And it is snowing again

Norm


----------



## Charles Lamont

With a Griptru chuck you should be able to get a ground surface like that cutter running to a couple of tenths. The point of a Griptru is that you can adjust it for 
any job, as it will not be equally precise at all diameters. If you don't have the instructions I will see if I can find mine.


----------



## rad45

Great forethought. You are certainly making every cm count, 
I also like the coloured sheeting. Is that an off the shelf product in your country?


----------



## bazmak

Yes Norm i did the machine test piece or 2 rings as you call it.Was 4 thou out
over about 6" but my leveling nuts made it easy to get to 1/4 thou with 2 checks and a quarter turn on the leveling screws.So much for the bed twist not enough to worry about .The Mt 3 test bar worked well on the 2 chinese lathes and to align the capstan but i had forgotten the Myford has MT2.Not to worry gripping on the collet and tailstock centre did the same job
Thanks Charles any input on the griptrue would be appreciated
I assume that more float is needed between the spigot and recess in the adaptor plt and the chuck.Thats probably the reason some one has overtightened the screws and cracked the body that i repaired
 The wall/shed cladding is called colourbond.Very big and economical building item over here.Painted galv rolled sheet in many profiles.The very basis one we call galvanised corrogated iron


----------



## bazmak

Thank you Charles any input would be most welcome.As i said previously
i have never owned one of these.When i first stripped it down i understood the
basic principles of how it worked and the innards looked in good order, apart
from hirlin cracks on the corners where the screws had been overtightened
Later i reasoned why. When i got the lathe running i had about 10 thou runout
and for the life of me could not get any adjustment,so i decided to put some time and effort into improving it.After almost a full day i have it down to 2 thou
how well i can keep it will be determined when i start using it.My thoughts only
are as follows but anyone more familiar please comment
The adjustment depends on the chuck body and the backplt moving a small 
amount in relation to each other.I quickly realzed that i needed to loosen the 
3 cap screws hidden under the myford adaptor plt so drilled 3 clearance hole 
to enable access with an allen key.Also the spigot on the adaptor plt was 10 thou down so i remachined. I skimmed a couple of areas to ensure the plt and 
chuck could move at least 10 thou.The because someone had ground grooves in the bp casting the adjusting screws were bottoming.The reason why someone had overtightened and cracked the body. I built up the ground ares with some m4 screws and then spent a few hours playing about.Still not straight forward but i managed to get within 2 thou.Which will do for now
Learned a lot about this chuck.Shame its been abused


----------



## rad45

Hi Bazmak and group.  Looks like you have had to learn very quickly with your chuck locating. And that someone could do that grinding to a chuck, especially a high quality product like a P-B.
If someone did that to one of my Röhm chucks I would track him down to drop into the Donau (Danube to non Europeans)


----------



## goldstar31

There is a TWO page set of comments by Geo Thomas in his epic  Model Engineer's Workshop book.  He obviously saw just how much difficulty other less experienced workers were experiencing and decided to give his well considered experiences.

I don't have a Griptru but  all of this prompts my thoughts away from 'non backplate' Myford three jaw chucks  and realise that  I CAN do something better on my Sieg C4 in setting up.
"Martin Cleeve'  had a very modified Myford ML7 which in later life earned him his living.  He actually bought  'a half one' and did his work on a 4 jaw independent chuck and a faceplate until he was rich enough to add a three jaw chuck to his library.  Like many of us, he couldn't get the accuracy to 'tenths' and  - like Baz- opened up the register on the backplate and slotted the three holes for minute adjustments by knocking the chuck into alignment.

He clocked his adjustment with a tenths of a thou dial mike and years ago, I bought a tool room Boxford one. I still have it and it gets used extensively.
Digressing a bit further, I do set over my top slide to get 'tenths'. Older readers might recall that I raised the query some months ago - not to learn- but to discover whether readers- did read.

Regards

N


----------



## bazmak

As my previous posts i cleaned up the 7/16" dia leadscrew and reduded a couple of thou to 11mm.I ordered a couple of 11mm thrust bearing.An odd size 
i thought at the time.They arrived yesterday so did a quick check of one
11mm i/d x 24mm o/d so i finished the first housing,fitted the bearing and trie
to fit to the leadscrew.No go,so after scratching my head i double checked the bearing.1 side was  11mm od but the other side was 10mm with the race cage
being 10.5mm bore.So much for Chinese quality control.I unboxed the second brg and you have guessed it.1 side 11mm bore the other side 10mm bore.
I used the 2 no 11mm halves and opened up the cage to 11mm with a drift
Assembled and fitted to the lathe.Bingo.I had in mind to use my homemade toolpost grinder to open up the bore on the other 2 brgs but thought it was 
a little too much meat to take off.I checked and realised i could use one of my
12mm bearings at the other side which would locate on the od with the bore just having clearance on the leadscrew.Made and fitted the second housing
to replace the slotted spacer/collar and fitted to the lathe.Result with the new bronze bushes is a super smooth leadscrew.Without affecting the original parts of the lathe.Simple and cheap and well worth the effort.Anyone else doing it,remember to order 4 no 11mm bearings,use 2 and save the the other 2 10mm ones


----------



## Cogsy

Baz, those bearings you ordered are 10mm bearings, not 11, which is why they turned up as they did. Being a separable bearing, one race is sized to be a press fit onto the shaft and the other to be pressed into the housing but having a lot of clearance on the shaft. You can imagine if both races were pressed onto a shaft it would be incredibly difficult to set the exact distance between each race. You'd likely end up with either a severe preload condition or mobs of clearance. Bearings of this type have zero shaft retaining ability and there must be other mechanical means of keeping the shaft in place.

Btw, with metric bearings the part number tells you the shaft size - starting at 10mm it ends in 00 (like 6200 or 51100 as you have here), 12mm is 01 (6201), 15mm is 02 (6202) and 17mm is 03 (6203). From 04 onwards, just multiply the final two digits by 5mm to get shaft size (6204 - 04 x 5mm = 20mm, 6305 - 05 x 5mm = 25mm, and so on).


----------



## bazmak

Thanks for the input Cogsy. The bearings were still sold as 11mm. With me machining the housings i planned to push the first half in tight and the bore opened out a few thou for the second half.Preload holds the second half to the brkt and the first half goes round with the leadscrew. Works well and the 12mm brg does the trick. I will know next time. I have plenty of 10 and 12mm brgs
so i thought 11mm was an odd size.Buying 7/16" to suit the leadscrew would cost an arm and a leg. With the bronze bushes i did not need the thrust brgs
to press fit to the shaft only for thrust.Preload does the rest


----------



## goldstar31

I'm sort idling a moment or two between  a rather awkward sit on lawn mower and doing aa adapter plate to take a Myford vertical slide, a Myford small dividing head( Thomas) and a Rotary Table ex Model Engineering Services- the Ivan Law guy
---------------to fit on my SiegS4 
OK, so back to your ML7 and the lead screw.
The wear at the tailstock end  is potentially only one bit of three points of wear. There is or are the Half Nuts and obviously the headstock end. Mine has a  or had a shattered gear box.

So, what is the position of the remaining two parts?


There are quite a few guys with worn leadscrews==========not just weary old moi

Regards

N


----------



## bazmak

Hi Norm,the lathe is as good as i can get it without fitting new parts
The half nuts and Leadscrew are good.The new bronze bushes as
previously posted overcome the the lightly worn leadscrew and along with the thrust bearings give the leadscrew an almost new feel,dont know how long it will last.I have just started to make an adjustable graduated dial for the cross slide but have had to order a set of BSF taps and dies from UK.I did not want to alter the leadscrew to metric so bit the bullet.With the myford in the new shed
i am building up all my imperial tools there with the metric ones in the main shed.Good job the sheds are only metres apart as i am wearing out a lot of shoe leather back and forth


----------



## goldstar31

The adjustable dials to replace the zinc alloy fixed ones is a splendid idea.  Even my very inferior Myford ML10 is thus equipped.

I'm sitting with one of my vertical slides( now on the SiegC4) and it is a pain in the lower part of my anatomy .

Spring is almost here- with I hope, the last snows to come this week.  So I'm in the shed, into the garage and into the Inner Sanctum- my Holy of Holies.

It does wear out shoes but my middle has been increasing towards a 36"  from my continuing boyhood 32". Too many Masonic Chinese 20 course banquets and very large English formal dinners with lots of port.  I'm becoming quite portly

Keep exercising

N


----------



## bazmak

Yes i love chinese and indian food and my waist has increased from 34 to 36
Still struggle to keep weight off as i have most of my life. I am drilling the 5" chuck backplt on the C4 for 100 divs. Then i can cut the graduations on the dia
in the lathe.Did most of the first one in the mill but not happy with it so will give a light skim and try again.I made the main body in mild steel waiting to be tapped 1/4bsf and the revolving section in alumunuum,with my std method of a grub screw and nylon insert to adjust the tension.Will post photos when its finished


----------



## goldstar31

Yes, I have ONE of my SC chucks drilled for a detent. Really, I should have  one with 360 and another with 100 detents.  I seems to have a lots of chucks but none Rhode Island Reds with feathers on.

I'm a wee bit 'Hon y soit qui mal de mer' 

Norm


----------



## bazmak

Well new dial made and much improved.I used the 60hole deviding plt on the mill
and then by eye to finish the first one.I wasnt happy with it.So i drilled the chuck backplate
100 holes at 3mm dia using my homemade worm and wheel index head as previosly threaded.The head had been machined to suit the C4 so the backplt bolted directly on.The wheel is 120t and the worm dial is 60 divisions .That gave me 720divs divided by 10 = 72 or one full rev and 12/60 divs. Spot on.I then made and fitted a detent pin and brkt and off we go.Much better grooves on the lathe then trying to mill with a small pointy D bit. I mounted the collar on a mandrel and skimmed out the old grads but more important getting the collar dead true before cutting the grads.I also set the carriage stop for 3 different lengths apart from i minor niggle with
one bad line it looks good.I thought the grooves were overly deep but when the burrs are polished off its about right.May make another at a later stage when i do one for the compound. Practice makes perfect.Now waiting for my BSF taps to arrive to fit it to the lathe


----------



## goldstar31

Baz,

Most informative for most of us.

I'm cheating a bit really because I have a GH Thomas small Dividing Head which is destined to go from the Myford to the Sieg.


That's the one that all that funny stuff to do odd divisions (and the tide tables for HongKong Harbour)

So I expect that you will be adding a small additional motor to exploit the divisions on your chuck?
Cleeve and a lot of others  including Tom Walshaw and Prof Chaddock did something similar

Kindest Regards

N


----------



## bazmak

My 20 piece BSF tap and die set arrived from the UK in 7 days
Quality is good for the limited use it will get and at 23 pounds
and free postage i am very satisfied.
Finished and fitted the micrometer dial.It works well but can improve
and will make a couple more later for the compound as well
I also spent a couple of hours stripping down and rectifying the 2 Myford oilers
One did not feed at all and one fed continually.Once i sussed out how they were supposed work i nudged a few things etc and got them going.I plan to make
 a few open brass oil cups for the countershaft etc and see how well an oil can works on the Myford oil nipples.Need to be confident that oil is getting thru


----------



## goldstar31

Good Morning Barry( and all)
I'm back to being able to hear a bit as one of my paired hearing aids was lost to the 'Beast of Siberia' Storm and my poor eyesight wasn't any good to find it.

Several points arise.  I suspect that your new BSF tap and die set will follow  the same route as my couple of Metric ones and that you will find the tap holder to be very soft. Yours looks identical to my rubbish! 

I'd glad to note that you have mastered the intricacies of the headstock oilers from Myford.  I hated mine! So now it is a supply of ISO32 hydraulic oil as standard?

As better dials, I would go for one of the ones which Thomas fitted and as described in his Model Engineers Workshop Manual book.

So briefly, I've got his small versatile dividing head ( ex my Super 7) onto the Sieg4 by way of 10mm steel subplot. The Myford  vertical slide( and little vice) will also go on the subplate. My rotary table(ex Model Engineering Services) will fit the same useful 'bit of plate'

I now need to make the tee nuts to hold another '10mm bit o'plate' to take the Thomas inverted rear parting tool that has gone onto a lot of machinery.
Per your earlier suggestions, I hasten to add!

The sit on lawn mower now 'works' as my son discovered that I had forgotten to charge its battery. Such is the price of forgetful old age.

Pity- the old longer Myford ML7 slide is lingering unused.  Is there any way that it could be taken out to you in OZ.?

My tribe from Leeds are fully loaded on their way to Sydney and thence- who knows?

Keep up the progress reports


Happy Easter to all

Norm


----------



## Hopper

Nice job on the number stamping there. What did you use to get the numbers lined up and square? 
Tap n die set looks good for the price. Who did you buy them from? (I recently paid way more than that for a set of 1.2mm to 2.5mm tap and dies from Jaycar!)


----------



## bazmak

The numbers were stamped freehand Hopper,but i did toy with making a small jig,but decided it wasnt worth the effort.Maybe another time
Thanks for your offer of the long cross slide Norm i dont have anyone coming over here but maybe you can get an estimate for postage. Regards barry


----------



## Hopper

LOL, you seem to get them straighter freehand than I do with a jig!


----------



## bazmak

That was the 3rd arrempt and the photos show the best ones ,the far side not as good


----------



## bazmak

Well i enjoyed restoring the Myford so much that i bought a 2nd one
I bought this one for about $400 more than the first from a chap a mile down the road so saving $250 on shipping.This one is an early model no 4843
made in 1948. Although it has been heavily greased thru the oil nipples which made it more difficult to clean up,it surprisingly has a lot less wear than the first. The ways were less than 2 thou down in the worst area and the leadscrew
and bushes were within 1 thou.No need for new oilite bearings. Speaking of which this lathe came with a metal 24 drawer cabinet filled with misc goodies and junk,part of which was over 200 oilite/bronze bearings.I have just separated the drawers from the timber stand and fitted them in my new shed
Still have to collate all the drawer contents but most of the oilite bushes look
brand new and considering i considered paying $120 for 8 no for the first lathe
i think i got a bargain.Lathe also came with a new double swivel Myford vertical slide and vice with a couple of chucks,face plate and 2 no homemade steadies
I have stripped down and started on the bed.I will not repeat the full refurb as the first one but will highlite any problems.Dont think i have a full set of changegears as the gearchain is missing a stud and had a direct drive on the 
banjo.Will have to make a new stud etc etc.I have also made a pair of riser/levelling mounts as the first lathe,they look good and worked well
Well worth the effort


----------



## goldstar31

Hi Baz

Congrats on your new acquisition 
So you could set up in business selling non ferrous bushes!

Two likes are the Griptru chuck and the adjustable vertical slide.   I'm rather jealous.

As far as my own Sieg is concerned, the Myford ordinary slide and the one which probably is one from a Perfecto lathe have gone onto the very simple bit of mild steel subplate. 

With better weather here, I've  made the suggested lathe tool holder for my Beijing tool and cutter grinder. If you recall, the South California  Home Shop Machinist ( Schism.org) one.

More problems with macular degeneration things here

Regards



N


----------



## bazmak

Well i sold myford no 1 and have amassed my total outlay less about $200
and i now have a free Myford lathe which i have just finished and about to buy
no 3. No 2 was similar to no 1 but i had to spend more time on the motor
Everything is finished and the lathe advertised  for sale.I was hoping to accumulate my fnancial stash and work up to a super 7 with gearbox
However another ML7 has become available at a good price.I had 2nd thoughts
as the end pulley guard is missing but decided it might be fun trying to make one.Onward and upward


----------



## goldstar31

G'Day Barry.

Most interesting saga. Of course, I'm simply waiting for a newer one when you tackle a Myford Super7 with its gearbox.
Where I'm at with mine is whether to change the Mark1 clutch or refurbish it. A 2nd hand Mk2 clutch requires a new end cover and the guts are also expensive at about £200.

However I'm awaiting delivery of a 4 jaw Self centering chuck for the SiegC4 and a possibly unusual 1" 5C collet to allow me to interchange Quorn, Stent with the new Asiatic Deckel clone tooling.

In the midst(mist) of all this, I'm getting over someone sticking a hypodermic needle in my better eye and the 'Fog on the Tyne' is clearing. I've been high on opiates instead of alcohol!
So to a Cardiac thingyesterday and having hit an obstruction with the sit on lawn mower and things are 'out of kilter'

It all prompts me to go to the Doncaster ME Show and see what other people have actually achieved. My pensioner's cheap rail card thing!


Regards

N


----------



## fcheslop

On my old ML7 been a tight wads I used an old Ariel Leader motor cycle clutch and have seen a very neat Honda Cub front brake converted
There was a mod in the Model Engineers Workshop that used a cone clutch although I never finished it
cheers


----------



## goldstar31

Ah Frazer,
                Pity but I part exchanged my Ariel Leader for a Mini Cooper 997cc. I recall that a basic Mini was £497 and the 997 was £565.  At that time, a villa in Menorca was £450( seriously).

Later I bought much the same for £7000 which goes to show something! Last year, I sold it for--- well, I paid £11000 on the English Capital Gain and I forget how much the Spanish bit was prior to that!

Probably, I could afford a second hand clutch out of the proceeds- but I, too, am a tite wad.

The mower is now making a funny noise. Merde!  Maybe it is the--------CLUTCH.

Keep well

N


----------



## bazmak

Well i have paid for Myford no 3 and it should be here in a few days.Dont know what condition its in but it comes with change gears,a couple of chucks and a vertical slide.Its a cheapie,at half the price of Myford No 2 but has the end pulley guard missing.So before the lathe arrives i decided to start on making a replacement.As an apprentice sheetmetal worker i must have made 100s of similar machine guards and i would have liked to make it from 3mm alum but with no bending or welding equipment thats out of the question.I decided i could make a decent replica fron timber and alum. Progress after 2 hrs work


----------



## goldstar31

G'Morning Barry.

Interesting concept by using wood!

A thought for those who have  Lidl supermarkets,  they are selling inverters and stick welders. Not me, I already have a stick job and a very cheap second hand little Mig.


----------



## bazmak

Good morning Norm.As an engineer my hobby was woodworking so i have combined the two over many years.If it doesnt look right then i will bin it and buy a replacement.Dont want it to look like a bodged job. See what its like when its finished.I have a stick welder but dont have room or inclination at my age to start Mig etc and alum welding


----------



## goldstar31

Agreed about working in both mediums.
My Myford Super 7B had a 'brew up' in previous days and part of my gearbox is actually fiberglass.
The thing ran on mahogany dust- well that was in the gearbox!

Incidentally, the SiegC4 has a new 4 jaw self -centering  chuck now.  It was supposed to come with a 1" 5C collet which would mean that I could swop tool holders on my Clarkson, Quorn and Stent grinders with the new Asiatic affair. So far, I have a 20mm one instead!  Thrice merde and a lot of Anglo Saxon words!

N


----------



## bazmak

Hi Norm,i too bought a 5" four jaw self centering chuck.Well worth the investment. Its surprising  how much more often you hold square bar rather than hex. Also score and refurbed the 6" four jaw independant for the C4
Myford no 3 should also arrive with what looks like from the photo a 6" slimline
lightweight independant chuck and i am planning to make a collet chuck for the Myford.Will keep posted anything of interest. Regards Barry


----------



## goldstar31

bazmak said:


> Hi Norm,i am planning to make a collet chuck for the Myford.Will keep posted anything of interest. Regards Barry



Years ago, I tried to make one from Lawrence Sparey's book, the Amateurs Lathe.

You know the sort of thing about using lorry half shafts for collets. It was far from a success! Today, I have a ER25 system which interchanges between the two Myfords and the Sieg but also takes in the Clarkson t&c and the Vertex DH and Geo Thomas's Versatile Dividing Head.

This leads me to prattle about the Myford no2 Morse taper and the Number 3's which appear on my Mill/drill and the SiegC4. I had a cannibalised jumper between the two but a posher one came from Arceurotrade along with 4 jaw chuck and sadly the wrong 5C collet which is a 20mm rather than the 1" one which I ordered.

Nothing quite works out, does it?

Wistfully

N


----------



## pp2076

bazmak said:


> Well i sold myford no 1 and have amassed my total outlay less about $200
> and i now have a free Myford lathe which i have just finished and about to buy
> no 3. No 2 was similar to no 1 but i had to spend more time on the motor
> Everything is finished and the lathe advertised  for sale.I was hoping to accumulate my fnancial stash and work up to a super 7 with gearbox
> However another ML7 has become available at a good price.I had 2nd thoughts
> as the end pulley guard is missing but decided it might be fun trying to make one.Onward and upward
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 95380


what is the purpose of that plate thing at the back left and the object top right?


----------



## bazmak

The plate thingies left and top right are homemade steadies.The pulley and shaft at the centre top is an electro-magnetic clutch assy which came with the lathe.Advertised as possibly adapted to lathe but i have no use for them


----------



## bazmak

Another few hrs woodworking.Made and fitted the sides fron 11mm thk timber
Laminated pieces of scrap timber together and bandsawed the curves.
Glued and screwed overnight before rough sanding and priming etc.Starting to look like the real thing.Need some 1.5mm alum sheet to make the backplt and to make and assemble the fixing lugs
While paint and glue were setting i stripped down 2 more chucks and reassembled.A 5" four jaw in good condition and a burnard 4" 4 jaw with a bad
jaw/screw so i made another to match.Had to make a 6mm sq broa









ch from a tap to match the others .Lot of work but worth the effort


----------



## Hopper

Very ingenious, and nicely executed. Will probably confuse the hell out of some future owner though!


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## DJP

A couple of suggestions.... consider epoxy coating the wood surfaces to ensure that any sprayed oil doesn't penetrate the wood and ruin the grey paint adhesion. My second suggestion is to make one more and attach a guitar neck and strings.

Very nice work but mostly I envy that you have time for projects.


----------



## bazmak

While waiting for Myford no 3 to arrive and with no 2 up and running i 
decided to some machining.I turned down a surplus catchplate to accept
the 80mm range of chinese gear.I had originally made an er32 collet chuck
for the original mini lathe which was surplus so i fitted it to the Myford
i will buy a full set of 19 no collets for $60 and will advertise it with the lathe
should make a good selling feature. Myford no 2 works well but a little noisy
a lot of which is the shed walls vibrating thru contact with the bench


----------



## bazmak

New end guard finished and fitted,cant tell the difference until you take it off
Very pleased its better than a bodged job and as near as i will get to an original


----------



## Hopper

The Myford one is the one that looks a bit rough!


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## goldstar31

Hopper said:


> The Myford one is the one that looks a bit rough!




I'm going to wonder about macular degeneration as I can still see the screw heads in the Left hand one:hDe:


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## bazmak

Myford no 3 has arrived.No 16553 made 1950.This one cost about half the price i paid for no 2 and comes with 2 chucks,a vertical slide and changegears etc
First impressions not badly worn.Missing end guard has been made along
with another pair of Bazmak special riser/leveling feet.Quick downside is that the motor is directly wired to a 3 pin plug and not thru a F/R switch.Not being up on electrical this may warrant a separate help thread later.Motor runs super quiet.Two hours later the inititial major stripdown is complete.Well greased and gunkie but one thing i noticed was the counter shaft looks new/unworn where i had to make new ones on Myford nos 1 & 2. Hopefully good signs of things to come


----------



## Hopper

Looks like another good 'un. Oddball handle on the topslide. Somebody's homeshop mod?


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## bazmak

Yes homemade handle on the compound and with a different but better micrometer dial on the cross slide.Home made saddle lock handle to the carriage but i now replace them as std with chinese comm levers.Few missing screws but nothing stands out as too difficult to fix at this stage


----------



## bazmak

Downside did nobody notice the hole cut in the changegear cover
Nor did i till today.Cant understand the reason for this butchery
Up side is i have just stripped down an almost new 6" ind. 4 jaw chuck
Pratt burnard,lightweight with cast slimline body. Well worth the mhole in the end guard. Stripped down and cleaned up the bed and main covers
This appears to be the best bed so far with min wear.No wear on the leadscrew and bushes


----------



## goldstar31

Apart from the suggested possible removal of the leadscrew--------which I seriously doubt, the 'hole' is for a slow speed attachment.

Actually I have one and it is a long time since it saw the light of day.

The other possible variation on a Theme of Paganani is the Martin Cleeve gear box which simplifies all this gear changing 'lark'

If you look at the download which I sent to you, the Cleeve articles on the box should be there.

On a personal note, I'm running around with a 3 times weekly series of b-12 injections and the frightening thoughts of losing my driving licence and then comes Tuesday, someone is sticking a needle in my better eye.  In the middle of it all, I'm off to Leeds to do some child minding so that my kids can have 'a bit of much needed quality time together' as son in law is a senior heart consultant and working 25 hours a day and 8 days a week whilst daughter is a consultant dental orthodontist on Ilkley Moor bah't t'at.

Cheers

from the stumbling pin cushion


----------



## rad45

I'm not familiar with English lathes. But can that hole have been cut to allow stock to be fed through the spindle to the chuck when into the production of multiple parts?
My Wabeco CC-D6000 came from the factory with a similar hole but that machine was made for CNC mass production and it also has a lever operated collet chuck.
When making multiple parts the stock is fed through from the left side into the collet up to tool position Nr 1 which is normally a stop for the feed. Then tool position 2 is the first operation in the manufacture of the part.
Russell
Ferlach
Austria


----------



## rad45

Off Topic and onto Eye problems.
Are you attending the Nuffield Center in north England about your Eye problem?
They are the world leader in the treament of Macular Degeneration.
I only know about this after having taken at different times, two fellow Austrians who went there for "Successful" treatment of Mach Degen.
I understand that patients go there from all over the world as the Nuffield Center is reputed to be the Nr 1. Even patients from Europe, the USA and I met one from Australia.
Russell
Ferlach
Austria


On a personal note, I'm running around with a 3 times weekly series of b-12 injections and the frightening thoughts of losing my driving licence and then comes Tuesday, someone is sticking a needle in my better eye.  In the middle of it all, I'm off to Leeds to do some child minding so that my kids can have 'a bit of much needed quality time together' as son in law is a senior heart consultant and working 25 hours a day and 8 days a week whilst daughter is a consultant dental orthodontist on Ilkley Moor bah't t'a.

Cheers

from the stumbling pin cushion[/QUOTE]


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## bazmak

Think you may be nearer the mark Norm.The hole is in line with the leadscrew
and there is a homemade handle to slow feed the leadscrew but at the tailstockend,such a waste of a goodlooking cover and part way thru the raised the Myford name.Never mind i am very pleased with the 4 jaw which i may keep.Also have another vertical slide to look at


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## goldstar31

Thanks Russell but when I went to the Nuffield for my cataracts, the operations were done in the Royal Victoria Infirmary in Newcastle.

Logically, I'm attending the RVI in Newcastle!

My thanks

Norman


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## goldstar31

bazmak said:


> Think you may be nearer the mark Norm.The hole is in line with the leadscrew
> and there is a homemade handle to slow feed the leadscrew but at the tailstockend,such a waste of a goodlooking cover and part way thru the raised the Myford name.Never mind i am very pleased with the 4 jaw which i may keep.Also have another vertical slide to look at



Of course, it is possible to fill the hole with a good resin bodge that contains powdered metal. My own S7B has a non stressed repair in the gear box casing.

Some of these resins are quite good

N


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## Hopper

Possibly some kind of fine feed mechanism attached to the end of the leadscrew through that hole in the cover? Looks like a previous owner was into a few upgrades so may have done something there, with the traditional windscreen wiper motor, or a reduction drive from the countershaft pulley area?


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## bazmak

I may machine out the cutout in the mill and make a screw in blank.I an also considering sanding flush the remainder of the Myford name
A shame really but it looks an eyesore as is.Finished the headstock and all guarding etc and the countershaft assy.No worn items but
quite a few missing collars ,screws and pins etc .also had to make a new woodruff key so i made 4. Nothing too difficult Now on to the carriage and tailstock and no 3 is finished.Just about used up all the Grey paint so will do the next one in green


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## nautilus29

We have some 6 jaw Pratt Bernards at work and they are great Chuck's.   One thing I noticed (at least on the newer models) is  they grind a .006" back taper into their jaws which makes holding parts straight a pain.  I ended up using a borazon tipped insert and I bored the jaws straight and it now works like a charm.  Our older Pratt didn't have this back taper, and the fit between the jaws and Chuck body was held to much closer tolerances, so I'm guessing they added to accommodate more slop in their foreign made Chuck's.

I would consider checking this on your Chuck so you don't have the struggles I did.  Anyways nice pickup!


----------



## bazmak

Thanks Nautilus.I havent got to the stage of checking chucks for runout.Just a stripdown clean and check
Best ones i keep and let the rest go with the lathe.Just had a good day finishing the guards and fitting
Had to make a few items,support studs etc and i had to make 2 large top hat bushes in nylon for the front guard
The later models had the h frame machined down to accept them but this one was missing them and lots of rattle
Now working on the carriage and then the tailstock


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## goldstar31

goldstar31 said:


> Thanks Russell but when I went to the Nuffield for my cataracts, the operations were done in the Royal Victoria Infirmary in Newcastle.
> 
> Logically, I'm attending the RVI in Newcastle!
> 
> My thanks
> 
> Norman



In  a British Government test yesterday,  the treatment of my good eye at the Royal Victoria Infirmary in Newcastle- England has resulted in my score going from 6/12 vision to 6/6. Whether this means that I can renew my driving licence is unknown. 
The hypodermics continue- remorselessly.

With luck, I might get the Myford Super 7B clutch working better------one of these days.

Regards




N


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## Wizard69

As for the hole in your cover id clean it up and leave as is.   Over the years machine tools do suffer modifications and damage that adds character.   

If it is a safety issue well that is another matter.  In general though trying to fix these things can often lead to a less than desirable outcome.


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## Hopper

There's one of those covers on eBay Aust. for $30 right now. Almost as cheap as buying glue and bog to fix the old one.


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## bazmak

Myford no 3 all finished.Just have to reassemble the tailstock and fit the motor to get it running
Thanks Hopper,i racked my brains with what to do with the bodged up handle to the compound slide
and bingo there it was staring me in my face.I used the handle from the vertical slide
I then made and fitted a brass graduated dial to a chinese cast 3" handwheel and boy does it look sweet
Will now fix up the end cover,and fit thrust brgs to the leadscrew + any other mods that spring to mind


----------



## goldstar31

I see that the saddle crosslide has the cast zinc alloy dial improved. Mine on the ML10 is similar. Not as good as the S7B but a vast improvement.

Whilst on the topic, I recall the dials on 'college' machines would read both for metric and imperial divisions.
Can you, Barry, or someone else suggest how to get metric and imperial measurement-- from the old imperial feeds screws?

I'm now working in both types of measurements i.e. on the two Myfords and the really metric SiegC4 and  on the Mill Drill which is Imperial.

Clearly, it HAS been done-- but how?

N


----------



## bazmak

Sorry Norm cant help,maybe someone more wise can comment
Myford no 3 is up and running with the motor cleaned and repainted and fitted
Just need to recable and fit the new slide switch when i know which conns to make
Is it just a simple thru live switch as per household appliances Photos show the finished lathe
with the vertical slide and collet chuck/milling setup


----------



## goldstar31

Thanks Barry and I appreciate your concern. It's an interesting concept and perhaps I can say that yesterday, I fitted the new X and Y functions on my little RF30 mill drill. As I have a set of 'Jo blocks', in can now see whether  imperial dials can be metricated .

My flagging maths suggests that 1" is 25.4 and therefore 0.4mm is the theoretical difference between the 2. By recognizing the true inaccuracies , there may not be a fat lot in it. 

Maybe someone will dare to go to print as you suggest. Perhaps we'll see.

As for the Eccentric stuff,  clearly, the Acute Tool grinder was left with 'necessary CD's and also what else it was capable of' and the Turnado has emerged. 

My thoughts on the 'Acute' are that there are better machines and before someone takes me to task, I echo the advice of the late Arnold Throp who probably designed the simple Kennet but also made a Quorn. I believe that he was part of the defunct Model Engineering Services who--- made the castings for both machines and part machined the Kennet castings.

Sneakily, I confess to having BOTH machines and a fabricated Stent and a Mk1 Clarkson.

As I said-- Very interesting!

Cheers

N


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## DJP

My attempt at milling on a lathe was not very successful as there is a reason that mills are huge heavy castings with massive holding devices. My lathe chattered and made a mess when milling unless the cutter was small, feed rates were slow and the material being cut was not steel. 

I am curious of your test results when milling with this rebuilt Myford. My old Southbend conversion to milling only convinced me that a Bridgeport was really what I needed for the long term. BTW, the Southbend is gone and replaced by a Super 7 with no plans to try lathe based milling again.

Take care and thanks for continuing the updates. It's an enjoyable story to follow with a new chapter every few days.


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## goldstar31

What must be remembered is that ALL the old boys used a vertical slide. The first home workshop mill was 'Ned' Westbury's mill drill and Prof Dennis haddock made his Quorn tool and cutter grinder to make the 1/10th diameter milling cuttes for his V12.


I made my copy of the Mk1 Westbury from 'aero chocolate' castings from the local Technical College. Chaddock actually made a Dore-Westbury.

I still have two fixed vehicle slides and vices. One was modified to fit my Sieg c4 and the other one to go on the two Myfords.

If one doubts the ability of such items, might I suggest that you read what Lawrence Sparey  accomplished in his Amateurs Lathe book.

I haven't room for a large mill and don't want to devalue my property with such a thing anyway.To increase the value of property, it seems prudent to hang either a Mercedes or Beemer and say a Lotus and a 'Shopping trolley' in the drive!

Ooops

N


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## DickG

goldstar31 said:


> Following 'Hopper's' excellent resume, may I add mine?
> 
> If the bed is worn- which is likely due to age, it will be some 6" from the chuck end.  Access to a Lumsden Blanchard machine will make quick work of the upper surface and will be surprisingly inexpensive.
> It doesn't compare with a proper sideways grind but will save hours with a scraper.
> 
> Again, as Hopper says, there will be wear on the narrow guide on the saddle but provided that the Number 1 shear wear  is built up with one of the Devcon or whatever plastics, the unused rear Number 4 shear can be used.
> Martin Cleese wrote this up in the years gone bye and I wrote it up in Model Engineer as well in PostBag of my experiences then.
> Again, there could be wear under the saddle and today, it can be built up again with Devcon or whatever but mine on the present Super7B is Turcited- and none the worse for its years.
> 
> I think that most who have gone down a similar road, will agree that it takes longer to write up than do.
> 
> Hopefully, I hope my comments will help
> 
> Norman



Sometime, back in the 70s, I needed to remove the wear on the saddle of my Super7B. The short guide idea may be theoretically sound, but in practice it's hopeless. I looked at the articles in Model Engineer that tried to deal with the problem but decided that they were all too complicated. I decided to use the rear shear on the bed and the corresponding face on the saddle. The short shear face on the saddle was milled away and a suitable strip inserted to pack the saddle away from the rear shear and restore it to its original position. I modified a couple of friend's S7s the same way. I wrote an article that Model Engineer published. It might have been coincidence, but shortly afterwards Myford changed over to exactly the system that I had on my S7!
I'm now on my second Super7B. This one was a metric version when I got it but I quickly converted it to Imperial. My first one was very easy to adjust for spindle clearance, but this one proved hopeless. It didn't like any sort of end thrust from a reasonable size drill. I changed the rear bearings a couple of times, even paying a king's ransom for a set from Myford. Then an article in Model Engineers Workshop described how to convert the rear bearings to a pair of taper rollers. I carried out this mod and it transformed the lathe. I can now run it up to 4,500 RPM and feed a 1" dia drill from the tailstock! I long ago changed the motor to a 1HP 1400 RPM 3-phase one driven from an invertor, so to run at higher speeds I simply wind the frequency up from 50Hz to around 80Hz. A local model engineer also had exactly the same problems, cured by changing to taper roller bearings. Other mods are a Cowell Rack Feed Tailstock and NuT drive belts. A Lavis Vernier Handwheel is fitted to the saddle and Geo. Thomas dials are fitted to the top slide and cross slide, of course!

DickG


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## goldstar31

Yes, I recall Martin Cleeve 'doing' an article in Model Engineer  and I did one on Blancharding and later on Turciting on various fora on my present Super 7B after the bed was slideways ground.

I'm rather enjoying having the SiegC4 indoors in my study.  I have modified it somewhat to take Myford chucks and Myford collets so as things can be made 'interchangeable'. Again, I am trying to standardize the use of 1" PGMS on my various tool and cutter grinders and these  fit the mill drill too.

What it is all about- I suppose.

N


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## bazmak

Yes thats the fun of it 





 Norm,probably get less use out of the mods than time spent doing it,but its fun
As to using the vertical slide in the Myford,no chance,been there and done that and once you have a mill
no matter how small and chinesy there is no going back.The VS and collets are a selling point for Myford 2
Like me and many 100,000s of others that was all we had at the time,its just a starting points.Works but limited
As a numismatist i started collected coins at a young age.Sticking 1/2d in a davey crockatt book.All worn from 
my change and others pockets.Worked my way up thru 1d to 1s.Could not afford 2s and 2/6d until i started working
Then i bought books,albums and eventually rare crowns.Point i am making is that you start off small and build up


----------



## bazmak

Every time i looked at the butchered end guard i had to grit my teeth so i bit the bullet
Could not leave it like that.I didnt mind the hole but disliked the cutout partly going thru the name
2 choices, repair or remove the raised Myford name so i took the easy option.Cleaned off the name 
made and fitted an alum cover plate then linished and painted the outside.Much better


----------



## DJP

Perhaps if you copy the font to create a stencil you can then spray on the 'Myford' name in a contrasting colour. Or create your own logo ('bazmak' would be OK) to brand the lathe as a custom Myford rebuilt.

You have options so no need to feel sorry.


----------



## bazmak

Ideally i would like to make and print sticky labels but i dont know how to do it
my computer skills are very limited


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## goldstar31

Being a simple sort of chap, why not take a rubbing from the 'raised 'Myford' logo on the bed casting?


If you were friendly with the local dentist, you could 'get' a dental impression and have a raised logo from the bed casting.

Amazing people these dentists= I know or knew three or more with Myford's. One was Bill Bennett who edited Geo Thomas's two books.
Another played the organ at our wedding- not at the same time as playing with his lathe. I suspect that my doctor, who married a dentist friend of my dentist wife, has a Myford tucked away. Another made a lot of his instruments on his '7'

I've just taken a call from a organist friend of mine- her husband has a 'Seven' in a room with flock wall paper.


Hint to self, get the'10' out again.  


Cheers 

N


----------



## Herbiev

This mob in Brisbane make stencils 
https://www.stencilsonline.com.au/


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## bazmak

This post will be in 2 parts. One the big advantages of the Myford over the chinese variable speed lathe is the low
speed and high torque for screwcutting.So i wanted to have go and decided to make a screw on ER32 collet chuck
I had to cut the 1 1/8" x 12 tpi in the myford and cut the M40 x 1.5mm in the chinese lathe.I also rough turned in the
Sc4 and then finished the the taper etc in the Myford. Although the internal taper on the collet was within 1 thou concentric
when the end mill was mounted it increased to about 5 thou so i put it on the shelf to give it further thought for later
Photos show my progress.I had to first cut a male thread and a 1.250 plug gauge but enjoyed the excercise.Next post 
goes a stage further


----------



## bazmak

Following on from the above post.Someone on gumtree advertised wanting a myford slimline 6" 4 jaw chuck
I replied that i had one and sent photos.He then told me mine had an adaptor plate and he wanted one with
a threaded body.He sent me a photo of an example but it appeared to have a threaded insert fitted to the body
I have in the past had one threaded directly in the body so i know both types were made.The advantage is the 
without the adaptor plate the chuck fits closer to the headstock and allows the external jaws to fit in the gap
and give more clearance for turning large diameters. Could i use the the collet chuck i had just made to fit the
6" chuck body which would also give me a spare adaptor plate to machine for fitting the chinese range of chucks
etc from the Sc4 to use on the Myford. Fairly simple and only took 2 hrs. Although noimportant/critical the chuck 
body did clock up to less than 1 thou concentric.Result is the chuck is much improved mounting and i have a spare adaptor plate


----------



## bazmak

Still waiting to sell Myford no 2 and hopefully try to find a suitable Super 7.Weather has been bad  so have not been doing much
Reading Norms posts about an adaptor plt to fit the Sieg with a Myford nose,i was unsure of the benefits.However looking for a
small project,having the materials and having collected a no of chucks etc with the Myfords i thought iy would be advantageous
to be able to swap all chucks etc between all lathes Very successful but i did find it easier to screwcut in the Myford rather than the Sieg


----------



## bazmak

Last 3 photos


----------



## goldstar31

G'Morning Baz!
The so called adapter plug that fit the Myford stuff onto the Sieg is rather complicated.

The obvious answer is that it is cheap.
However, when the Sieg was bought- for washers, it only came with a three jaw with internal jaws rather than more expansive external ones. OK, in the scheme of things, I bought a 4 jaw independent and a faceplate from Sieg sources along with a fixed steady.  However, I was sort of duplicating things on the 3 jaw thing and my suppliers- none in the UK, could supply a set of external jaws. So I bit the bullet- and bought a 4 jaw SC chuck from Sieg agents.

So moving on, I have several Myford 3 jaws, one with the almost obligatory ring of locating holes which with minimum outlay of a an adapter - could be put on the Sieg. But I also have a small independent 4 jaw ex my Myford ML10 and plain undrilled Myford faceplate but also two catchplates.

Are you still with me?  So I have a Thomas home made dividing head which has a Myford nose but so has my Vertex one- which can do duty on the mill drill as well. So ignoring the mention of collets which go onto the 2Morse tapers of both Myfords, I have open sleeves for the 3MT spindle on the Sieg!

But it isn't quite answered completely because I have Quorn t&C with Myford attachments but I can transfer the better spindle onto the Stent T&C but also onto the little Kennet and it can all go onto the Clarkson tool and cutter grinder which has two magnetic tables to act as a surface grinder.

But, but-- I also have acquired a oddly assorted 'swoppable' tooling.

Possibly, I have an odd but  expansive mind. 

Oh yes!!   I have one of those bodies which is not only only affected by eyesight but cold. The Sieg and I live in my warm indoor study.

Clearer?

cheers

Norm


----------



## bazmak

Clear as mud Norm,but your probably like me,and enjoy making these things but dont use them much to actually make other things
Wonder who will benefit from all these engineering wonders when we leave this world.Would like to think they will well used
At the moment Myford no2 is still up for sale and i am awaiting some thrust brgs to mod the compound and cross slide to Myford 3
Which is the best of the bunch and i may keep.Would like to get a super 7 with gearbox for a stripdown and refurb before i get too old
Regards barry


----------



## goldstar31

Apologies for a tardy reply but with the arrival of my new driving licence and a better allowance of a whopping 3000 miles on my car insurance , I took the opportunity to visit my old friend with- about every conceivable extra for his much modified Myford ML7-R with a gear box and clutch with Cleeve tailstock-- and well, a vast amount more.
Like me, he has planned his tooling to 'interchange ' bits onto his 10mm Pultra- which I also had.
Clearly he was interested in my Sieg and was mentally comparing and contrasting with our lathes. I was offered another Myford 'stub nose' but declined. It was Tom Walshaw writing as Tubal Cain from the delightful flesh pots of mystical Darlington in County Durham. Hummmm?

So Myfords in Oz are slow to sell. Frankly, I think that the problem is also in County Durham and my experiences as an auditor and nefarious other activities in charity, I can well believe you. Suffice to say that my family are not the least bit interested in mechanical things as a hobby. My son will pull his Lotus to bits because few has more expertise. My daughter will bend wire but for rather more than others with less sophisticated pliers. I've got a boxful too!

As far as a sound investment for the future, I find it somewhat bizarre to even think of a workshop as such. When I retired- far too late in my life- at the extreme old age of 55, I never had a  lathe in my expectations.

Of course, my dear old father threatened knee capping should I want to eke out a meagre living with something like 'engineering' 

My view- whatever it is through a more or less blind eye and a rather indifferent other one

Norm


----------



## bazmak

Well i have sold Myford no2 and have recouped my total outlay on all 3 myfords and i have myford no 3 for free.
Myford no 3 is the best of the bunch and i have just finish the mods previously started and mentioned
Th thrust brgs arrived from China today. For both the cross slide and compound i made a new lock nut to
house both the brg and the brass micrometer dial as previously posted. No changes to the lathe so it can
be returned to its original design.Once i get the lathe up and running i can check everything out,but it does look and feel good
Also fitted thrust brgs to the leadscrew. The brgs are only cheap skate brgs at nom 50c each but do make a big difference
Refering to your previous post Norm,it seems a never ending job but i have to make another adaptor plt.I dont have a spare
3 jaw to sell with Myford 3 so have to fit my sieg 3 jaw. Photos show the concept


----------



## goldstar31

Good Moaning, Barry!
I'm glad to learn that you have managed to sell a Myford.

Pity that we are not on each other's doorsteps but you would have got a the longer cross slide and a feedscew and a thread cutting dial at the tailstock end.

I certainly agreed with the addition of bearings etc and the ability to zero the dials. The old Mazak ones are a pain in the 'ass' and when my ML10 arrived someone had 'done all that'. 

I'm now in worse state as my Sieg literally jammed. After literally taking the whole lot to bits( Yuk). it was traced to the Screwcutting clamp being completely seized and the gib screws  were actually 2 in each hole. Ah well.

Again, no one had actually removed much of the preservative grease and this- in the years since manufacture- went completely solid. A judicious use of a half pound hammer had to be used.

So work has had to stop for a few days as I am having more and more hearing and sight problems.

Nice to hear that you are making some progress. Keep in touch

Norman


----------



## goldstar31

Apologies all
I’m in France  enfamille
Cheers

N


----------



## bazmak

Still working on Myford ML7s lost count of the no so far.I have 2 with the original single tool post so I made a couple of 4 way
with ball locking arms and washers. Lot of work but interesting and satisfying.
I also bought as new a fixed steady,as I said first one I have ever owned.First thing was to cover the horrible hammerite green
with Myford grey.Also got a brand new 9" faceplate.A T slotted one first time I have seen one.Very nice item. Also just waiting
for delivery of a 4" 4 jaw self centering chuck.I have a 5" one I use all the time,making the 4 way toolposts etc


----------



## goldstar31

Hi Barry!
Whilst I have several sizes of Myford faceplates, I have never seen a Tee slotted one.
However, I had a similar one by Tom Senior of Yorkshire and have read up how to add tee slots following 'Martin Cleeves' write ups in bygone Model Engineers.Pr obably in the 1950's or 60's!. 
The interesting thing for others is that Cleeve used the idea  as he never had a mill ing machine and made his tools using what was really half a ML7 as he hadn't much money - well, he could afford to patent his swing tool holder and made fabricated fixed steadies etc which came from his earlier ML3 or 4. I recall that he cut gears with single lathe tool using both ends !  In addition, he made a separate gear box for his ML7. I had one years ago. Somewhere, I have a Morse Taper sweep face thing with  3 slots for lathe tools instead of using milling cutters . 

However he used TWO motors and fast and loose pulleys and re-cycled hydraulic oil.

Incidentally, he fabricated a 4 way tool post and  rear tool post using home made bolts. I still have the rear one00 somewhere- and a swing tool holder.

Keep posting

Norm


----------



## bazmak

I have an original Myford 9" faceplate but there is insufficient meat to mill T slots
I also have a heavy duty faceplt for the sieg which I did mill T slots
This one I think is from RDG and screwed for the Myford nose
All nice to look at but don't get much use


----------



## goldstar31

I do appreciate just how little meat there is on the original Myford one but 'Cleeve' added 4 metal plates to make his  tee slots 

For myself, I have Vertex BSO dividing head which accepts a No2 MT and also a Myford Type faceplate. The whole lot, of course can tilt through 90 degrees to make a rotary table too. When it came, it also had a plain undrilled  cast iron faceplate which, incidentally makes a rather nice lapping/tool honing  plate using diamond pastes. So I can swop everything over from the Myford to the mill/drill to the Clarkson tool and cutter grinder. Devillish clever stuff. 

Meanwhile,  my flagging memory has woken up to wonder whether the little Cleeve gear box affair might conceivably go on my little Myford ML10. Which all reminds me to have a natter with my ancient old mate who has the Cleeve drawings for a tee slotted work holder out of Engineering in Miniature and that is in the Blackgates Engineering catalogue.

Keep well

Norm


----------



## bazmak

Hi Norm and everybody,still here and now solely working on Myfords.I advertised to buy/swap and restore Myfords
I have just finished one for a lad who lives local in the Adelaide hills. I have also sold the super 7 and an ML7 so
I bought another.Well into double figures now but ever one is interesting and different.The next one I bought
sight unseen online,very,very cheap and described as with no motor  a broken cross slide feed screw. While waiting














 I decided
to make a stand on the lines of the Myford original but lighter and manouverable to suit my needs.Here is my progress
meanwhile the lathe has arrived and will make a very interesting tale


----------



## goldstar31

Hi Barry.
As you say another interesting tale.   Your new stand has me wondering because my experiences suggest a balance problem  caused by the motor being too far back- and the whole thing tips.  Consequently, I wonder about the wheels which are fitted to your stand.
Maybe they are there temporarily to move things about.

Whatever, I read your next gripping instalment about things Myford.
Me???  Nothing much.  A week getting inebriated in the Dordogne in France followed by a terrific cold and the threats of yet another eyeball injection on Thursday. a twice weekly series of exercises for  sagging lungs and to rather exciting trips to London and then Oban  for a couple of 'jollies'  with 'the lads'
So workshop activities are almost nil. I've smashed/worn out yet another saw blade on my 6 x 4 whilst cutting a huge and heavy chunk of Meehanite.

Best wishes

Norm


----------



## bazmak

Your right again Norm,the stand is mainly for build up and sales etc and for moving around in my
limited workspace. I would not use it the wheels but design some adjustable feet or have it
fixed down whilst using the lathe


----------



## bazmak

Lathe arrived as described without motor and a broken cross slide feedscrew.A quick strip down revealed everything clagged up with dried grease
Looked as though it hadn't been used for a long time,no bad thing. First pleasant surprise was it was a very late model serial no 99408 circa 1971
I thought I would start on the 2 chucks which were badly locked up, but a stripdown,clean etc revealed in almost new condition
A 6" myford ind. screw body slimline lightweight chuck and a 4" self centering with 2 sets of jaws both by Burnard. So that's half the value
I paid for the lathe already








 .Quick check of the bed no more than 1 thou wear at the worst spot.Looks like I have scored a gem.Will keep you posted


----------



## goldstar31

As Barry says, Burnerd chucks  are great and were standard issue for Myfords.
To the next gripping instalment?

Norm


----------



## bazmak

Full strip down and almost fully reassembled. The headstock brgs were as new
As was the bed and carriage.No wear at all to speak of just take apart and put back together
I fixed the cross slide feedscrew by drilling and tapping M3 and then screwing together
with a HT stud.Prepped and silver soldered the joint before machining the OD and thread
Then fitted a pair of roller thrust brgs.Very little backlash and smooth as silk.Tailstock and topslide next
I now need to think of a new motor and with my limited knowledge would ask advise from anybody
1/2 or 3/4 hp. Foot mounted or cradle resilient mount. CW or reversible. 240v 4 pole 1425 rpm ish
I have replaced one in the distant past but the top mounted capacitor cover clashed. Whats involved with a variable speed drive ?
Very limited here in Australia but have seen a few on ebay some local.Would also need a starter switch and 2 1/2 to 3" pulley
Anyone here in OZ know of any second hand ones available Meanwhile I plod on


----------



## bazmak

Well this ml7 is now finished.As well as being the cheapest it is now the best of the bunch as regards min wear and looking as new
I bought a new 1/2 hp motor with f/rev switch all prewired and fitted new pulley and belts all for $400ish
Runs well on my new stand.I made an adaptor plt and fitted a new 4jaw s/c chuck and almost finished a new 4 way toolpost
and a boring bar toolpost Really pleased with this one I like the drawer to the stand fits in well


----------



## goldstar31

So now I expect that you will be looking for more gears and a long cross slide.
Pity we are so far apart as I have a spare one

Out of action following a wasp bite just under my left eye- and I'm allergic to such things.


----------



## bazmak

eye eye What would be the postage Norm


----------



## goldstar31

Colossal  ! I checked with my son  who is a boss  in the mail freight business.

Anyone from Oz visiting Yorkshire again?

I do have a Masonic invite to Tasmania next Feb. This would involve a stop over in Oz( Proper) but I will be almost 90 then and family and friends say that I am too old and infirm.

I'm a wheelchair bloke now- partially blind, almost deaf, COPD and now awaiting results of an ECG.

Apart from them, I'm actually FINE- compared to a lot of other poorly people.

If you have someone who is visiting the UK and an address to send things, I could help.

Meantime my kindest regards as usual

Norm


----------



## goldstar31

goldstar31 said:


> Colossal  ! I checked with my son in the mail freight business.
> 
> Anyone from Oz visiting Yorkshire again?
> 
> I do have a Masonic invite to Tasmania next Feb. This would involve a stop over in Oz( Proper) but I will be almost 90 then and family and friends say that I am too old and infirm.
> 
> I'm a wheelchair bloke now- partially blind, I’m ten miles from any parcels depot - by taxi. I only drive 100 miles year for food I live alone   Not easy
> 
> Cheers
> 
> N


----------



## bazmak

Hi everybody,a Happy Xmas and prosperous new year to all.Still lurking and keeping tabs on everybody
but not making anything of interest at the moment.Still restoring Myford 7 series lathes and have 3 on the go
at the moment.One of them has an O ring at the chuck end of the spindle.First one i have seen on the 15 or so
lathes that have past thru my hands,can anybody shed any light on it.Regards barry


----------



## goldstar31

Greetings Barry and I hope that you have escaped the dreadful. fires that your countrymen are experiencing.
My cousin in Tumbarumba, NSW is OK- touch wood!
So this oil ring???? In my reply to friends Packrat and Skyline, I mentioned bearings and hydraulic oil.

As you know there is a world of difference between the ML7 and the Super7 and ML7-R. At one time it was impossible to replace ML7 bearings until someone found a cheap(er) alternative..  I confess to knowing NOTHING about this so I'd welcome further informed comment!
What I think( Me, me, me) is that either the front bearing is worn or easier still the Myfords ( well mine- literally pee oil from the front bearing.  I buy High Bollock oil in 5 litre containers.
So I await informed comment too


Best Wishes


Norman


----------



## bazmak

Hi Norm,safe from the fires but the heat is getting to me. I had one ML7 for sale and made up my mind not to do anymore for a while
Then up pops 2 local bargains very cheap so i could not resist. No 1 had been sat in a farm shed for 20yrs and once i had chiseled
off the the dried grease cleaned up nice.The second had been stripped down and partly reassembled but the owner could not finish it
as he has health problems. It had received a proffesional spray paint job,  all handles rechromed etc with a new boxed set of change
gears from a super 7. I stripped it down again as there were many small items missing nuts and bolts etc but nothing i couldnt make
so one was the most gunged up i had worked on and the other the cleanest. 
The O ring to the front of the spindle looks original (Myford ?) i assume to stop oil leaks to the front but it only seals the the front
of the front brg what about the the other 3 places


----------



## goldstar31

I'm fascinated about lathes popping up!  I sort of live in a rather posh area- houses at c £500, 000 and another area where the hose prices are £150, 000 and  I doubt whether there is another workshop with a lathe in any of them apart from mine.  Gardens, yes, sh11ty pigeons. and a load of credit card debts in both areas and no money whatever for my sort of hobby. Oh, Hell they all eat out and the amount of alcohol is alarming, gambling is rife but no hobbies. 
I do a fair share of drinking and eating- my waist line has gone from 32 to 34 to 36 and I have a collection of clothes like  morning suits and evening ones which are taking up too much space. I drink in either a gentleman's club or what could once be called a working men's one and the odd( very odd) bar in the Masonic temples but there aren't any hobbies to speak of.  Most people are horrified to find a near 90 year old get off an electric scooter, up end a sit on  lawn mower and 'tinker'.
The only sort of sane creature is my son who will happily strip and service or strip a Lotus down.
Nope- I live in what was a thriving mining, shipbuilding and heavy engineering  area and apart from a handful of model railway folks covering the whole of Tyneside- Nothing.

Australia must be on another planet.
So Best wishes


Norman


----------



## fcheslop

Never seen the O ring mentioned on a ML7
Myford as in the original factory did offer an updated headstock spindle and bronze bearing kit.The spindle was hardened
I replaced the bearing on my last ML7 around 12 years ago and seem to remember paying about £200 for the kit. 
Had a lot deeper pockets back then and time was worth more than the cost
I replaced the ML7 that had been bought from Osborns in Newcastle upon Tyne with a factory refurbed ML7R from the liquidation auction. 
cheers


----------



## bazmak

Hi everybody,im still in the land of the living but nothing of interest to post.When i started this thread 2 yrs ago i bought a $650 chinese mini lathe Did the mods and a capstan turret and sold it on to buy my first myford then repeat.With the intension of building up to hopefully a green super 7 with gearbox. Well so far i am on no 17. Included in the tally are ML7s,Super 7s and an ML7R with and without gearboxes. I have made 7 Myford style stands and about 20 pairs of riser blocks.I have had most of the accessories except the taper turning attachment which i plan to make. I am awaiting delivery today of my final lathe so will reopen this thread.Apart from labour costs this lathe is a freebie


----------



## bazmak

Photo of similar


----------



## goldstar31

I'm now on a Super 7 with Gear box an  power cross feed and  it's on a stand with solid riser blocks--- and it's Green. It's got a split phase motor and 'A 'series  link belting. Price? Don't ask.

I wish you well in your endeavours as ever.

My old oil gun from the past  has finally given up and  I bought a Swiss one at the extortionate price of £80.
Oh dear- very dear

Cheers

Norman at 90


----------



## bazmak

This lathe has a 3 phase motor so i may fit a vfd.To start with can the motor be wired for single phase


----------



## JCSteam

Hi,

Look forward to seeing this one turn out of the Bazmak shops. Does it have the tailstock rack or is this something you might be adding?

Jon


----------



## RM-MN

bazmak said:


> This lathe has a 3 phase motor so i may fit a vfd.To start with can the motor be wired for single phase


If you use a VFD you won't want the motor to be single phase.  The 3 phase motor with output from the VFD will give you some speed control and will be driven from a single phase input.  The only way you would want a single phase motor is if it was DC (oxymoron, single phase DC) with a variable speed controller.


----------



## awake

bazmak said:


> This lathe has a 3 phase motor so i may fit a vfd.To start with can the motor be wired for single phase



You can use a "static phase converter" if you don't mind losing some power. Basically this is just a starting capacitor an the means to switch it in and out for starting, plus some run capacitors to balance the legs. IIRC, you get about 2/3 of the rated power this way.

Personally, I would not buy a static phase converter - if I were to buy something, I'd get a VFD.

But building the equivalent to a basic static converter is pretty simple, and if you can source the capacitors from something like an HVAC graveyard, nearly free. And of course, once built, if you happen on a cheap or free 3-phase motor to use as a rotary phase converter, your "static converter" becomes simply the starter / control for that.


----------



## BaronJ

bazmak said:


> Hi everybody,a Happy Xmas and prosperous new year to all.Still lurking and keeping tabs on everybody
> but not making anything of interest at the moment.Still restoring Myford 7 series lathes and have 3 on the go
> at the moment.One of them has an O ring at the chuck end of the spindle.First one i have seen on the 15 or so
> lathes that have past thru my hands,can anybody shed any light on it.Regards barry



Hi Barry,
Christmas !  You're a bit early for that one, about six months 

The "O" ring trick, Its a dodge to stop you getting an oil spray line up your front.  If you have seen pictures of my workshop there is an oil spray line all the way to the shelf on the back wall.

It doesn't work unless you clean the spindle behind the chuck regularly !


----------



## goldstar31

My new wall has a neat oil spray but Whether it is ISO32 or my favourite lard oil- or a mixture of both- is unknown


----------



## bazmak

Lathe has arrived and i have done a part strip down to give it a good cleanup
2003 model with very little work,excerlent paintwork with a few chips to remedy
Next job is to make a stand and fit before reassembling.Its a heavy beast
First impressions very good.It has a 3 phase motor so i can fit a vfd or a new single phase motor
I may go with the latter to start so as to get it running sooner


----------



## goldstar31

I ticked for th e Sauvignon Blanc. Jokes apart, it does look good. However what tooling have you got to go with it?


Cheers


Norman


----------



## bazmak

Quite a lot. 5" 3 jaw ,6" 4jaw ,9" faceplate, metric conversion kit , vertical slide with vise.
Fixed and travelling steadies.  QCTpost etc.I havent looked at everything yet. Coverted one 
since they first came out,at an engineering show.Didnt like the colour at the time but i do now
I plan to make an adaptor to take the chinese range of 4 jaw chucks as i have a few and the er32 collet chuck
Keep well Norm.Send a photo of your green super 7


----------



## goldstar31

Sounds great! I added a 'Chinese?' SC 4 jaw and have enjoyed it. 
Photos?????? On that topic, I'm a complete idiot.  My son 'tweaked'  at my picture box  on my 90th mini bash but when I took some lathe etc piccies they were in video mode. Possibly he has now fixed it and I might possibly learn how to post them. 
My eyesight is worse and although I can see OK at a distance, close up reading etc is hopeless.
Friday sees(???) me having another injection into my better eyeball.
I'm having to give up driving as the car insurance is horrendous-- £825 and before the lockdown I was only doing 300 miles.
Apart from that- and a crate of other things- I really fine for a 90 year old.

Meantime, my best wishes

Norm


----------



## ozzyjoe

bazmak said:


> Lathe has arrived and i have done a part strip down to give it a good cleanup
> 2003 model with very little work,excerlent paintwork with a few chips to remedy
> Next job is to make a stand and fit before reassembling.Its a heavy beast
> First impressions very good.It has a 3 phase motor so i can fit a vfd or a new single phase motor
> I may go with the latter to start so as to get it running soonerView attachment 117469
> View attachment 117467
> View attachment 117468


it must be a good drop, you are already a day older than us......According to your camera date!!!


----------



## ozzyjoe

Lathe has arrived and i have done a part strip down to give it a good cleanup
2003 model with very little work


She is a beauty......I am in love...…..you know that Will of yours? can we talk about it????? please install a vfd and keep the original motor on, with a good brand vfd you will have a very smooth control of the revs. Please don't sell this new baby .


----------



## bazmak

where in Australia can i get a vfd. I want a small box for controls every thing i see
is large multiple control box units with cables everywhere as in your photos
I will go for it if i can a a simple to wire compact control unit


----------



## goldstar31

bazmak said:


> where in Australia can i get a vfd. I want a small box for controls every thing i see
> is large multiple control box units with cables everywhere as in your photos
> I will go for it if i can a a simple to wire compact control unit


I believe that you had a 'Yorkshire' connection so I would mention that a unit weighs less than a pound.
Howverm years ago  I bought a unit suit suitable for a myford and added a three phase motor-- and it doesn't work now.
Importantly, a year or two back I took it( the unit) to a Model Engineering Show to see whether the single exhibitor of such things would either comment or repair it. Frankly, I got the 'Bum's Rush' and was simply offered a new one. 

Recently, I bought a Super7B with PXF but found that the wiring caused shorts. I was helped here- thanks Baron J, but it ended up being repaired locally with new wiring harness etc for the low price of £60 or £70.

So, I don't know but a new vfd will be easy and light to post and not incur British taxes. If that is the way that you want to go.
ME???????- well let's say politely, I have. a spare single phase motor-- which works.

Best of Luck

Norm


----------



## deverett

Following on from Norm's posting, 2 well known suppliers of vfds in the UK are

Newton Tesla (which I have used and am completely happy with) 





						Lathe Speed Controls - Inverters In Warrington - Newton Tesla
					

Find Lathe Speed Controls from Newton Tesla. Buy Phase Converters, Buy Inverters In Warrington, Colchester Bantam Lathe, Union Graduate Lathe Speed Control.




					www.newton-tesla.co.uk
				



and
Transwave  Transwave Converters

There are 350 vfds for sale on eBay UK at the moment.
No doubt there are other suppliers from other parts of the world.

Dave
The Emerald Isle


----------



## jack620

bazmak said:


> where in Australia can i get a vfd.



This is where I got mine:
0.75kw/1HP 240V Single Phase Variable Frequency Compact Drive Inverter VSD VFD

They can be operated from the built in control panel, but it's much more convenient to use remote switches. The remote switches will be much more robust and the VFD can be enclosed in a box where it will be safe from metal chips, coolant, damage to the wiring, etc.


----------



## ozzyjoe

bazmak said:


> where in Australia can i get a vfd. I want a small box for controls every thing i see
> is large multiple control box units with cables everywhere as in your photos
> I will go for it if i can a a simple to wire compact control unit



Don't  warry about all the boxes and wires in my photo,they are for looks only.
The VFD is the first box on the left , it is a company from the UK and they main depo for AU is here in Sydney.
1 Wire in and 1 wire out,start-stop ,forward -reverse, speed control all in one control panel.
If you want a cheaper version (made in china)there is a local eBay reseller that has some for a good price at the moment, but I have to buy one and test it before recommending it to you.


----------



## ozzyjoe

My first speed control box, it was more than $150 for parts back then,now you can buy a vfd  for $98 on eBay.


----------



## bazmak

Well the VFD arrived today.Just a cheap chinese one,just to get me started
I mounted it to the side of the cabinet for now and had a quick play. I was under
the misconception that the digital readout was for the rpm but now i realise
its only the frequency. I really need to get a rev counter at some stage
With the motor drive on low range and the spindle belt in the middle i got
a speed range of 0 to ave,but when i moved the motor pulley to high range
it did not seem to have the desired effect and could not get a faster speed
When it was wired direct to the motor at first it was very quiet and smooth
but did not seem to drive the motor at top speed  ie 1425 ish Any advice
Attached are photos of the original wiring.Question,can i use the 3ph stop/start
box and wire it to the n1ph supply before the vfd


----------



## Charles Lamont

I am not an electrician, but I think the answer is no. Those appear to be momentary push buttons. They would be used with a contactor (and overload relay). The contactor would be wired to be self latching in the on state.

AFAIK The VFD just needs a normal mains plug. Any external controls would be wired to the (24V) control terminals in the VFD.

You could use your button box for that, but you may well still need a small relay to latch the on state. VFD remote control boxes often have more functionality than that, with a speed control knob, probably reverse, and perhaps a jog function too.

I have a control box for my S7 as a back-burner project, but it is coming on; the metalwork is in the 'paint shop'.


----------



## cds4byu

There are probably two ways you can use your start-stop switches.

The first (and the one I used on  my conversion) is to leave the switch connected to the contactors that started and stopped the motor when it was not in variable speed mode, and then use those contactors to switch the control wiring on the VFD.

The second is to program the VFD so that instead of having the control wiring be a Run/Don't Run input, it will have a Start input and a Stop input.   I'd be happy to look at your manual to see if I can help you figure out how to do the programming if you'd like.

Carl


----------



## jack620

bazmak said:


> can i use the 3ph stop/start box and wire it to the n1ph supply before the vfd



No. As Charles said, they are momentary switches. Use them to send start and stop commands to the VFD. You don't need a contactor to switch the single phase input to the VFD. Just switch it on and off at the power point. And you are going to want a remote potentiometer for speed control. They are usually 5K linear. The one on the VFD will be quite flimsy and if you break it you may lose the ability to program the VFD.

Nice looking lathe BTW.


----------



## bazmak

I am having problems with the VFD.I wired it to the motor and it worked ok allthough the speed seemed slow
When connected to the lathe in the low speed belt range it runs but no torque.I can stop the spindle with
my hand.In the high speed belt range it wont run at all.There is just no torque.A tight belt prevents it running
Any advise would be appreciated. I am concidering getting a new 1hp single phase motor and stick with
the belt drive.This is where i struggle with very limited electrical knowledge


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Barry,

Are you sure that the motor is wired in delta ?  The low power suggests that it isn't.


----------



## bazmak

Hi Baron,as i say has very limited electrical knowledge. I did not touch the motor conns just used the existing wiring/cable
to connect direct direct to the VFD.Attached a couple of photos.Whats involved delta wiring ??


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Barry,



bazmak said:


> Hi Baron,as i say has very limited electrical knowledge. I did not touch the motor conns just used the existing wiring/cable
> to connect direct direct to the VFD.Attached a couple of photos.Whats involved delta wiring ??





> View attachment 117955


If you look at the rating plate, fourth line down.  It reads, translating the symbols, V=voltage, star/delta, 380-415/220-240, 50Hz.
The lines below gives the current for star then delta connections.
Then below that the insulation class and working temperature.

The important lines for your purpose is the forth one.  When the motor is wired in delta it is a 220-240 volt motor and the load current about 2.3 Amps three phase.


> View attachment 117956



This bit is a bit harder !  Assuming that the motor wiring has not been altered from original, "U-V-W" are one end of the three winding's. "Z-TB1-TB2" should be the other ends.

The wires have to be swapped around in order to swap the winding's into delta.  I'm struggling to remember which ones have to go where.  But basically in star all three winding's will go to a common point.  Those three wires have to be separated and the end of one connected to the start of the next winding in line.





These diagrams will help.  I think that your motor is configured as the right hand diagram and it should be reconfigured as the left one.


----------



## jack620

bazmak said:


> This is where i struggle with very limited electrical knowledge



This is a job for someone who does have some electrical knowledge. Do you know anyone who can help you with this?


----------



## Charles Lamont

I think the black, brown & grey all being connected to Z may indicate that it is star wired. But in any case the plate also says it is 370W (1/2HP). That is not enough to drive a S7, even less so at reduced speed.


----------



## BaronJ

Charles Lamont said:


> I think the black, brown & grey all being connected to Z may indicate that it is star wired. But in any case the plate also says it is 370W (1/2HP). That is not enough to drive a S7, even less so at reduced speed.



Hi Charles,
Forgive me if I disagree with you, my S7LB only has its original 1/2 HP single phase Brooks motor, and it has plenty of grunt.  So far I've never found that it is under powered in any way.


----------



## goldstar31

BaronJ said:


> Hi Charles,
> Forgive me if I disagree with you, my S7LB only has its original 1/2 HP single phase Brooks motor, and it has plenty of grunt.  So far I've never found that it is under powered in any way.



I'm with John here.  I have just sold a sight glass Myford  Super7B and replaced it with a 'recent' Sup er 7B with PXF- both with 1/2HP motors. The latter had a split phase  motor and  John was very help i trying to fathom its peculiarities.

I can go back- Oh till the end of the last war and getting a bit done for a Henwood athodyd jet engine being a precocious  school boy. The bit was done on an early ML1or up to 3( long time ago) and it was powered by a quarter horse  ex- washing machine motor.

When I got around to having a Roo¨nd bed Drummond and then a Pools 'Major', they. were also powered with ex washing machine motors.
The ONLY bigger power was the 'line shafted' ML7 whch had- a full 1 HP and one 1/3 HP running as he. changed his working.

 always wanted a Bormilathe or a Murad Antarctic lathe. Oh, yes a Holzapfell but that's another story.


----------



## Charles Lamont

Interesting. My S7 came new from Reeves in 1973 with a 550W single phase motor. A contemporary brochure recommends 1/2 hp 3-phase or 3/4 hp single. Mine now has a VFD with a 750W motor. In top speed, at 50Hz, I can hear the speed drop when I start drilling, but then I do run it with the spindle bearings on the tight side. I would say anyone who regularly uses carbide tools (I don't) would be better off with the extra power.


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Charles, Guys,

I've heard this before, the same model lathe but fitted with different size motors.  

I know a couple of people that have exactly the same lathe and both have different motors.  One is a 3/4 HP Brooks and the other is 1/2 HP but a GE (I think) one.  The Brooks ones have rubber anti vibration mountings, the GE one is rigid.

I think that Myford fitted whatever motor they had in stock at the time of manufacture.


----------



## cds4byu

This link shows how to change a Brooks motor from star to delta.

As I understand it, you will be running the motor at half voltage if you are running in star, so it's not surprising your power is low.  Half the voltage gives 1/4 the power.

Hope this helps!  Good luck.

Carl


----------



## awake

With regard to a 1/2 hp motor ... it does depend on which half of the horse you get. I have had experience with new, import, "1/2 hp" motors that apparently were assembled from just the fat and gristle of the horse, no muscles included. I also have some old "1/2 hp" motors that not only must be all muscle, but also seem to have used a bit more than half a horse - they seem more like 3/4 hp!


----------



## BaronJ

cds4byu said:


> This link shows how to change a Brooks motor from star to delta.
> 
> As I understand it, you will be running the motor at half voltage if you are running in star, so it's not surprising your power is low.  Half the voltage gives 1/4 the power.
> 
> Hope this helps!  Good luck.
> 
> Carl



Hi Carl,
Thanks for that link, refreshes my memory.  I'm fairly certain that the colours are correct for the motor Barry has.  Brooks used several different connection boards in their motors but the wiring colours  would be the things to go by.  An ohmmeter would confirm it.


----------



## bazmak

Thanks guys. I have taken the motor and VFD to a local motor rewinders and he has said he can
rewire to delta and the conns have to be picked up inside the casing. Nice asian guy with heavy accent
when combined  with mine made conversing difficult.However with additional sign language he 
indicated that not enough uummff in star but ok in delta.Will have to wait and see


----------



## BaronJ

Hi Barry,

Now you have got it sorted. Once you have the VFD correctly set up it should be fine !


----------



## bazmak

Thanks Baron,your simple answer made sense.Just picked it up and refitted to the lathe
Seems to have sorted it all.More speed and torque.Bit more tidying up before testing
under load. First job is to make an M42.5x2 male spindle nose plug gauge so i can make 
an adaptor plate to fit all my 4" range of chinese chucks. I have purchased an ER32 collet chuck
and full set of collets. I also have 3 and 4 chucks etc. Even though this super 7 can easily
swing the heavier 5" chuck i prefer a 4" for most work. As soon as i get set up i will
post a video


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## BaronJ

Hi Barry, Guys,

The Myford spindle nose isn't M42 by 2 mm, 

This is the drawing for the spindle nose !






Note that its is 1.125 by 12 tpi Whitworth thread.


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## bazmak

Mine is a super 7+ or bigbore the nose is M42.5 x 2mm pitch with MT4


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## BaronJ

bazmak said:


> Mine is a super 7+ or bigbore the nose is M42.5 x 2mm pitch with MT4



Hi Barry,

I should have guessed !  I'd forgotten about the "Big Bore" version.
However I'm surprised that they have gone metric.  Does that mean that nothing else fits ?


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## bazmak

Yes i have a 4" 3 jaw ,a 6" 4 jaw and a faceplate.Thats why i want to make an adaptor plate
to suit the chinese 4" range of chucks.I have bought an ER32 collet chuck and set of collets
i also have 3 &4 jaw s/c and 4 jaw independnad chucks.Should still be able to pass 1" thru
the headstock.Will post if its all successful.I usually do all the lathe work on my chinese lathe
and just the final skim/fitting on the Myford. (so i dont get too dirty). Again it is a metric lathe
with only the cross and top slides and the tailstock running on metric screws.The leadscrew and gearbox
are still imperial, but has a metric conversion kit to cut metric threads by changing the banjo assembly


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## goldstar31

RDG- the 'new' Myford has an adapter 'nose' for the Big Bore variety. Over £100 though in the UK.
As for the Chinese lathes- well, I listed what I did for the SiegC4 which I have.  I also did a conversion  kit to fit Myford bits and ER25 collets as well as Myford collets.
So I can fit a 'Myford' rotary head and the GHT small dividing head and the Myford vertical slide.
Jim Batchelor writing in GHT's Workshop Techniques added the Universal Pillar Tool modifications for those interested in clockmaking. I seem to recall Tom Walshaw writing as Tubal Cain doing Ornamental Turning on the Myfords.

Me? I've got the Potts grinding and drilling spindles. Merely saw what could be done. With a bit of 'engine-uity' the Quorn also fits.

Kind Regards

Norman


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## JRSherbundy

bazmak said:


> I am having problems with the VFD.I wired it to the motor and it worked ok allthough the speed seemed slow
> When connected to the lathe in the low speed belt range it runs but no torque.I can stop the spindle with
> my hand.In the high speed belt range it wont run at all.There is just no torque.A tight belt prevents it running
> Any advise would be appreciated. I am concidering getting a new 1hp single phase motor and stick with
> the belt drive.This is where i struggle with very limited electrical knowledge


Sorry for posting so late on this issue.  I have been reading through these posts and I agree that the motor is probably wired for Wye (Star) Connection.  This connection puts a lower voltage on each of the three windings,  so each winding sees about 57% of the voltage it would see if connected Delta.  Interestingly, the motor will run at or near full speed assuming the loads on the motor are low enough, meaning the belts are not too tight and not so much friction.  This Wye connection is often used as a means of starting a motor and getting it up  to full speed before reconnecting the windings as a delta connection (done through a sequence of mechanical switching of winding connections).  When connected in Delta, the motor can operate a full power.  This starting method was often used on large air compressors here in the USA for motors of 300HP to 500HP.  The unloader valves on the compressor are open when in start mode thereby keeping the load on the motor down, and allowing it to come up to full speed.  Then when at full speed, the winding are mechanically reconnected in Delta configuration and the compressor is off and running as desired.  The advantage to this method of stating is keeping the starting current down to a lower more tolerable level.  I have no idea why the previous lathe owner would want to run the motor Wye connected unless it was because of the voltage available.  So getting back to the problem as noted, I agree with the comment that the motor was in Wye connection as as such had not ability to handle load.  I did not see anything in the motor terminal box photographs which would suggest the previous owner used a Wye-Delta starter since all six leads of the motor would have to be brought out of the terminal box and connected to the starter.  Those pictures showed the motor wiring was Wye connected for sure.


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## ozzyjoe

JRSherbundy said:


> This Wye connection is often used as a means of starting a motor and getting it up to full speed before reconnecting the windings as a delta connection (done through a sequence of mechanical switching of winding connections). When connected in Delta, the motor can operate a full power.
> 
> Thanks for clearing this up, it all makes sense now.
> Is there a circuit that we can build (via means of timers, relays and /or switches) to connect our motors, like the example you give above. I  know it is cheaper and quicker to buy a single phase motor but i prefer to keep the original 1954 motor on the lathe. Keep in mind that we are also using reverse/forward switches in our motors.
> Thank you.


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## bazmak

Well i am almost ready to make chips on the big bore.First job is to make an adaptor plate
Heres the progress so far. Bit long winded but i managed to use available materials Managed 
to succssfully cut and a male and female M42.5 x 2mm thread.All done on the Chinese lathe
and ready to be finished off on the bigbore.Very pleased with the days work


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## BaronJ

Hi Barry,

Very nicely done


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## bazmak

I finally made chips by finish machining the adaptor plate in situ. Shame to get the lathe dirty
Its a beautiful machine so smooth and quiet. When i did a heavy cut it did bog down so for future ref
the 1/2hp motor and VFD may not be adequate.May fit  new 1hp single phase later with f/rev switch
and keep both as options. The new adaptor plate works well and has given me a new range of chuck options


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## goldstar31

Barry
           Congratulations. Most intersting.

Thinking of faceplates, I have one from a 9 x 20 which is almost too big.  What I like is the smaller ML10 one- and its counterpart 4 jaw independent chuck.
I was wondering about whether you still have the Sieg SC4 as I wondered whether  I could use a Sieg C4 SC chuck grafted onto a Myford catchplate( I have TWO).  I have two sets of soft jaws for the Sieg which were heavily discounted.

Comments would be appreciated

Cheers


Norman


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## bazmak

Hi Norm, the 4" range of chinese chucks have a 72mm spigot and are the same as the ones
i have just fitted to the bigbore. They are also the ones that i fit to all the ML7s and super7s
The chinese chucks as fitted to the SC4 are good quality and cheap that is why i use them
as i dont always get decent chucks with the lathes i buy. I always use a spare threaded adaptor plate 
or machine up a catchplate.That way i can economically resell an ML7 with say 2 new chucks
The answer to your question is yes you can machine a catchplate to fit your sc4 lathe chuck
I try to avoid having to screwcut internal/external threads,but as you can see i had to with
the bigbore. Saved having to buy one (very expensive) I also took the long route and used
available materials.Saved having to buy anything,being a tightarse Yorkshireman. From my past posts
you can see that my sieg chucks fit my Myfords and i made an adaptor to fit the Sieg that accepts
all myford chucks


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## bazmak

Nice little job today,making a neat/tidy but simple splashback from 2mm alum
and gives me something to hang my  recently aquired lamp to


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## bazmak

Stand is finally finished.Made and fitted a drawer when the new Myford nameplate arrived from UK
Splashback finished and everything looks really well. Owning this beautiful machine and LEEDS UTD
getting promoted to the premiership fulfills my bucket list.I can die a happy man.Current project is
making a taper turning attachment and almost ready to assemble to the lathe


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## goldstar31

Hi Barry, it all lppks great but the taper turning attachment???

Since your lat posting, I have  fitt ed an Alllendale Group DRO onto my Super7B PXF but using the bolt holes where a taper turning attachment might be fitted. Again, Not cheap at £439 but ideal for my failing eyesight.
Again,  yesterday, I finally machined the back plate from ArcEurotrade at £ 24 with three holes for the Sieg 3 jaw chuck which has a set of soft jaws- ex Axminster Tools.

Used my G H Thomas small divising head to  pop the necessary bolt holes.

This brings me to  an interesting discovery. Some time back, I was at the last Doncaster Show and bought a little rotary table for about £20 but also a handful of tee nuts from RDG Tools. I'd discovered that they were tapped M5-- and thought no more about it as I had plenty of cheap M5 studding and nuts. They don't fit the slots on my lathe nor ' my accessories'

Apparently, per my 94 year old mate that there is an article in Model Engineers Workshop-- of which I haven't gpt

More Anon- perhaps- but best wishes


Normman


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## lathe nut

WOW, don't you even use that Lathe, no chips, no oil, put it in a glass case and sit with it and have your coffee/Tea with it each morning, that is a fine restoration and that is one lathe that I would like to have, I think they are so cute, I have several brands but here in the USA that is hard to come by, at least a distance for me to go and get it, I like to restore, have done a few and nothing like getting done and seeing possible better than factor care put in it, that is really nice, thanks for sharing, I saved the pictures to put in a file with different types of lathes and a folder for restored one, Love it, Joe


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## bazmak

I have a chinese lathe and mill in my small dirty workshop so i dont have to get the Myford dirty
Its in the house so it means a big cleanup if i use it in anger.Its like having a vintage car in the garage
drive it out out  on the drive to polish it then go shopping in the Toyota


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## lathe nut

I know what you mean, I restored a 12 Atlas, with all the tooling that come with one, its in a small air conditioned shop that is part of the car port I use it for light and neat jobs, spend more time cleaning than machining, in the big shop I am restoring a 21" South Bend with all the tooling that a fellow could buy, I found it in a non machine shop had been sitting there since 1959, some of the face plates are in the grease box had not been opened, I got it for 400.00 dollars, had to take it down to the bed to be able to lift if, no wear, just dead paint, I painted the pieces and I removed them so when the bed and apron is done I can put it to gather, been getting pics as I go, i might use it ?


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## bazmak

Why dont you do a post lathe nut,i for one  love machine restoration posts
With regard to your question mark on the taper turning attachment Norm
I have never owned one and havent used one since my apprentice school days
I dont have a need for one but got hold of the drawings and thought i would have a play
Just to keep me busy. The basics are finished and it is assembled on the lathe
works well with no binding.Just have some tweaking/improvements to do
Using the 3  1/4 bsf fixings to the lathe with 1/4" clear holes the assy was 
parallel to the bed within 2 thou,more luck than good judgement. The slide locking pin
i hashed up from an M16 nut and bolt and when i am happy i will make a new one
with clamping handle with a single point screw cut 5/8 x 24tpi as per drg. The drawings go into detail 
using a sine bar setup,but i think i will use graduations for approx angle and push/pull screw for fine setting
I am hoping to get it going with a video and set up for a morse taper.Which i will then dowel.Will keep you posted


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## goldstar31

Hi Barry
                Congratulations on  your taper turning attachment. Actually, I probably have the drawings too.
Unfortunately, I'm beset with two problems. One. is insurmountable whilst the other is simply onerous.
The onerous one is nothing more than the GH Thomas inverted rear parting tool- which I really like but second is tht the Allendale DRO utilises the fixing holes  for the  taper attachment to hold the magnetic longitudinal attachment - which links in with the cross slide one. Working with little room behind my lathe, I finally gave up the 'classic; way of doing iit and made an alignment jig. Such is the name of the game.
Fortunately, I live alone and am some distance from neighbours.

So the interesting news is a short and legal visit to collect some Quorn castings and a little 1/5th 2880 rpm motor by Jon of JCSteam  for our good friend and associate BaronJ who is hopefully recovering from a hospital visit.
Meantime, I tidying up for the 'Royal' visitation

Regards to All

Norm


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## awake

bazmak said:


> Why dont you do a post lathe nut,i for one  love machine restoration posts
> With regard to your question mark on the taper turning attachment Norm
> I have never owned one and havent used one since my apprentice school days
> I dont have a need for one but got hold of the drawings and thought i would have a play
> Just to keep me busy. The basics are finished and it is assembled on the lathe
> works well with no binding.Just have some tweaking/improvements to do
> Using the 3  1/4 bsf fixings to the lathe with 1/4" clear holes the assy was
> parallel to the bed within 2 thou,more luck than good judgement. The slide locking pin
> i hashed up from an M16 nut and bolt and when i am happy i will make a new one
> with clamping handle with a single point screw cut 5/8 x 24tpi as per drg. The drawings go into detail
> using a sine bar setup,but i think i will use graduations for approx angle and push/pull screw for fine setting
> I am hoping to get it going with a video and set up for a morse taper.Which i will then dowel.Will keep you postedView attachment 118801
> View attachment 118802



Very nicely done! A thought ... I don't know that there is room for it on this design, but something I have really appreciated on my (factory) taper attachment (for my Cincinnati TrayTop lathe) is a screw fine-adjustment - really helps to dial in the taper to just the right setting.


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## bazmak

I have taken the first cuts and it all works well.It took me twice as long to clean up
as it did to to cut the taper. Now to strip it down and do some mods and tweaking              https://youtu.be/CyLZG6W7Kl0


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## BaronJ

goldstar31 said:


> So the interesting news is a short and legal visit to collect some Quorn castings and a little 1/5th 2880 rpm motor by Jon of JCSteam  for our good friend and associate BaronJ who is hopefully recovering from a hospital visit.
> Meantime, I tidying up for the 'Royal' visitation
> 
> Regards to All
> 
> Norm



Hi Norman, Barry, Guys,

I'm back in Hospital again tomorrow !  Third time in three weeks, third covid19 test as well.  Should be out Friday at some point, assuming that all goes well.

Anyway special thanks to Norman for his generosity and to Jon (JCsteam) for expediting the transfer of the bits.


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## goldstar31

Hi John( BaronB), 
I hope that hospital goes well
 I went into lockdown in February- after a Chinese Banquet and then a Masonic dinner- being hugged and kissed by all the ladies Then I was feeling weak, watery  and full of 'flu for weeks after.
And got nowhere. Then I was told that I was in the highest risk category and , apart from a eye op. and a visit to the dentist( my front teeth went), I've been no where.
 So I wish you well and hope that once you've been sorted out, the little motor and the castings prove useful.
Great Life is you don't weaken?

Take Care

Norm


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## bazmak

All the best John keep well


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## JCSteam

Good luck today John, hope all goes well.


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