# Building a "Turkey,"  My version of Elmers VR3 #51. (Finished, with video)



## Metal Butcher (Nov 22, 2009)

#1 I was a little reluctant to build this model based on a few things I read in Elmer's text. Due to minor concerns a decision was made to build it the actual size as drawn. The time I spent contemplating changes on previos builds will be utilized to produce parts machined to a higher degree of accuracy.

To start off my build scrap pieces of brass and aluminum were marked for rough cutting in the H/V band saw. I generally use low cost scrap that is purchased from scrap yards by the pound. The large brass plate in the picture below will become the "front plate". You can see the evidence of a rough life as an anvil, with its previos owner. It will be resurfaced to become an important part of my project.







#2 Below are the rough cut pieces after trimming off excess material by utilizing the band saw. This will minimize the milling time needed to reach their finished sizes.






I comically named my build "Turkey." Every time I glanced at the drawing of the front plate it reminded me of turkey. It must be a subconscious trigger based on the reality of the up coming holiday.

I can just smell that tasty bird roasting in "Honey's" oven! ;D

-MB


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## Deanofid (Nov 22, 2009)

Looks like an interesting engine, MB. I'm sure you'll have a great build to show us!

Dean


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 22, 2009)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Looks like an interesting engine, MB. I'm sure you'll have a great build to show us!
> 
> Dean



Thanks, I certainly hope things go well.

I always wonder if it would be prudent to delay posting until a build is complete and running!.

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 22, 2009)

Fantastic. Looking forward to the build.
And like most turkey's this time of year...it will be to a good end!


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 23, 2009)

#3 Today I did a little work on the pieces that were band saw cut yesterday. Four sides of the large brass plate that will become the "front plate" were squared up by end milling. The 1/4" plate was then fly cut down to 3/16" thickness. This surfacing removed almost all the damage on both faces.






#4 The fly cutter did not remove one shallow defect. I should be able to lay out this piece to conceal the minor defect by either the crank disc or the fly wheel. If it were deeper or larger, I would have drilled and reamed it for a tight fitting plug cut .050" longer than the thickness of the plate. Peening the plug tight in the hole and then facing both sides of the plate by fly cutting would conceal the repair.

I enjoyed milling out the opening in the base so much that I decided to mill out a cosmetic opening in the "back plate". It didn't take very long for me to give in to my uncontrollable habit of altering Elmer's plans! 
 :big:






-MB


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## Twmaster (Nov 23, 2009)

It's OK MB. I too have issues with following instructions....

Sometimes to my detriment!


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 23, 2009)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> It's OK MB. I too have issues with following instructions....
> 
> Sometimes to my detriment!



Detriment...Been their, done that!  ;D

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Nov 23, 2009)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> It's OK MB. I too have issues with following instructions....
> 
> Sometimes to my detriment!



I thought that was called 'learning'...'gaining experience'. (I probably shouldn't say anything...some one's going to ding me for my own thread.) ;D

Thanks for the tip on fixing/repairing the minor defect. I like these kinds of tips.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 23, 2009)

Zee, glad you liked the info on pluging a hole in scrap to recycle it into a useful part.

I hoped some one would pick up on it and use it someday. It may come in handy to repair a mistake on a time consuming part. 

Its fun to point out a well made plug on a model. It adds interest to a project like a well made dovetail does in quality furniture. It also seems to impress people with no knowledge of metal working. "How did you do that?" And you get the Respect of a growing amount of people trying to be politically correct by pretending to be responsible citizens that support recycling. ;D

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 24, 2009)

#5 I decided to post a picture of the few parts made today. With the up coming holiday shop time will be very limited since "Honey" has a few days off. I be helping out with the preparations and lending a hand with other last minute details.

To add an outside flywheel I felt that the base needed to be raised up a bit. So I milled up a pair runners that blend in with the style of the base. They will add a 1/2" to the base height which will allow an additional 1" in flywheel diameter. In the picture below the previously made original base plate is placed on top to show how the addition will look. The crank disc, crank shaft, and crank pin assembly was a strait forward cut, mill, and drill job. I was very careful when making the 'drill jig' to assure the highest possible precision by milling it to exact dimensions and reaming all of its holes. After a quick dip in 'tool black' I engraved the plan number in case I ever need it in the future. 






-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 27, 2009)

#6 The 'front plate' was marked out with scribed lines and intersection points along with the radius for the cylinder pivots, and outer edge radius. The extra line on the outer edge was added since I decided to make the 'front plate' 1/8" larger. This will conceal the sharp protruding front corners I observed on the 'valve plate'. 






#7 All the holes were drilled and reamed excluding the six port holes. Those were drilled using the 'drill jig' and 'jig pin'. After removing the jig, and before moving to the next port location, the ports were counter sunk 1/8" x 9/64" deep to accept the 1/8" copper tubing.






#8 To get a nice 1/2" radius on the lower sides of the plate, a 1/2" end mill was carefully advanced up to the scribed lines. The final cut was to split the scribed line by eye. The remaining excess will be trimmed off using the band saw, and belt sanded to the scribed line.






#9 After trimming out the lower corners, the outer radius was trimmed off using the band saw. On this type of curvature its a good idea to use relief cuts to eliminate blade binding. These cuts can be seen in the picture below.






#10 The outer radius was brought up close to the scribed line by using a 1" x 30" belt sander. The plate was secured snugly to a scrap block in the mill's vise using a tight fitting hold down shoulder bolt loctited in place. The plate was tight but could be rotated smoothly with effort. With the mill off, and before I did any cutting, the clearance was checked and adjusted by rotating the work piece, so that there was no contact with the cutting tool. With the mill running and after each full rotation the cutter was advanced only .002". After about 7-to- 8 360 degree cutting rotations the edge was up to the scribed line.

I do NOT recommend this method. The work pieces can be pulled out of your grip and cause injury. It can also lift and tilt taking a larger bite that will as also pull it out of your grip. Rotating the work piece back in a counter clock wise direction or 'climb cut' is increasing these dangerous possibilities. An unsecured piece rotated on a pivot pin will lift and is defiantly an invitation for disaster! I was very careful and fortunately the cutter did not grab the work out of my grip.

A much safer method to consider is the use of a mill mounted rotary table, or lathe mounted face plate.






#11 I finished the piece by sanding it on a glass plate using #220 wet/dry paper. This removed the scribe lines and marks left by the earlier fly cutting. Below is a picture of the front (face) that the cylinders will mount to.







#12 The back side is shown below. This is the side that the 1/8" copper tubes will be soldered to. 






Its been said that the oscillating cylinder is forgiving of ports that are not properly located, and off a bit. I really like the use of the drill jigs offered in Elmer's plans. A precision 'drill jig' assures exact port to port alignment based on the cylinders pivot point. The usual result is a successful and smooth running engine. 

-MB


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## gbritnell (Nov 27, 2009)

MB, it was good talking with you the other day. It looks like you have a great start to this engine. The brass plate that you were telling me about cleaned up quite nicely. I wish my mill would flycut as well as yours seems to do. I have used burrs in a milling situation but not quite like you have there. Keep up the good work.
gbritnell


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 27, 2009)

Thanks George, it was good talking with you too. You have an open invitation to stop by when ever you find the time.

-MB


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## Deanofid (Nov 27, 2009)

The "turkey tail" looks really nice, MB.

I've used a similar method for rounding corners on pieces, but never on something this large. I agree with you, that a piece this size would be better done on an RT, if it's to be done on the milling machine. You got a great result, in any case.

Dean


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 28, 2009)

Thanks Dean. I'm very pleased with the results. 
On small pieces like a connecting rod, a large plate that the piece can be snugly bolted down to and dragged across helps with stability. Shutting down the spindle and pushing a piece back to the starting position, prior to advancing the depth of cut also helps. Work stop pins or adjustable stops help with milling into a corner. The corners are a tough area that grabs the most. Light deliberate cuts that are slow-and-steady are very important. 

You probably know all this, but its good to post this type of information. Rather then a dangerous and useless, "Just mill the corners round by pivoting the piece on a tight fitting pin." Someone may try this using just one cut! Or try to advance the cutter with one hand on the hand wheel while pushing the work piece in the direction of a climb cut with the other! 

Dwelling on all the dangerous possibilities could keep a sane person up all night.

-MB


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## Deanofid (Nov 28, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> Dwelling on all the dangerous possibilities could keep a sane person up all night.
> -MB



You got that right. 
If a person ever thought about the danger involved with turning a razor sharp piece of metal at 3000 rpm, with two horsepower behind it, then running another piece of metal into it, on purpose...  Well, he might just decide to take up marshmallow eating, instead.


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## Metal Butcher (Nov 29, 2009)

#13 I cut and faced a 1" x 1/4" brass disc that will become the 'valve'. It was bolted face up to mill the two air passages 3/64" deep with a 3/32" center cutting end mill. 







#14 The ports on the 'valve plate' shown on the left were done in the same manner.






#15 The ports were de-burred with an Exacto knife. Afterward the 'valve' was bolted to the end a 3/8" mandrel, and chucked into a cordless drill. Then the outer corner was rounded with a file and blended in with 600 grit sand paper. The 'valve plate' was sanded later using a glass plate to remove the obvious file marks seen in the picture below. Two pieces of 3/32" drill rod were cut and the longer one was bent to a 90 degree angle. I added a profiled ball end tip to the finger lever to give it a more 'finished' look.






#16 The air/steam intake tube was made from a 3/4" piece of 3/16" model pipe that was threaded 10-40 on one end. I changed the 'valve' hold down method by tapping the 'valve plate' and reaming a 1/8" hole through the 'valve'. This allows the use of a spring, spring bushing, and hold down screw from the top that is much easier to get at. One of the 1/16" stop pin holes can be seen in the picture below. The two stop pins will be installed using Loc-tite during the 'final assembly'. Leaving them off for now will allow a light lapping should it be found necessary during the 'test assembly'.






#17 My "Turkey" took its first victim today. During a set-up procedure my 3/8" center finder fell out of the spinning chuck and was mangled against a vise jaw. Luckily the part being set-up escaped with out injury. The top of the vise jaw received a minor scar that will be removed with a light 'stoning' using a corundum stick. The center finder was replaced with an identical back-up and the project continued. I think my key-less chuck needs to be replaced since this has happened in the past. There is known previos damage on the chucks jaws that may have been a contributing factor in this mishap. :'(

That's all for now. 







-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 1, 2009)

#18 Today I finished up the four frame pieces that were previously milled by drilling and tapping their holes. The cylinders were bored along with drilling the 1/16" ports and tapping the holes for their pivots. The center cylinder (lower left) was bored strait through and will be a built up assembly. The other two cylinders were also bored through and will have cylinder heads similar to the center cylinder (heads not shown) that need to be machined.The the aluminum center piston has a separate rod guide in place on the piston rod and will be pressed into the bottom of the cylinder with Loctite. A t the top of the picture is the flywheel. I changed the location of the drilled holes that are used to balance the engine. I did some calculating to duplicate the amount of material removed, and the six holes were equally spaced and drilled. This was done in an attempt to create a little visual interest that should be seen at lower speeds.

There are still quite a few parts to make, along with a few minor decisions, and a few problems to solve before this project is any where near completion. One of the minor problems is the 1/8" copper tubing that measures .126' to .127" and doesn't fit any of the twelve 1/8" holes in the 'valve plate' or 'front plate'! 






It seems to me that this build is taking too long, and should be already finished. :

-MB


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## Deanofid (Dec 2, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> It seems to me that this build is taking too long, and should be already finished. :
> 
> -MB



Oh, I dunno, MB. You seem to move right along, to me.
That's a nice looking cache of parts you have there!

Dean


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 2, 2009)

#19 One of the minor issues that this build presented me is the copper tubing used to pipe the air/steam from the 'valve plate' to the ports on the 'front plate'. The tubing I have on hand is a small coil of 1/8" sold at hardware stores and appears to be inconsistent in size, and straightening it out would be quite a chore. Also I have no experience with the cutting and bending that's required. I remembered that this type of material was sold in hobby shops. Below is what was purchased to help solve my piping dilemma. All I need to do is figure out how to cut it "neatly" to proper lengths, and solder it "neatly" in place.







-MB


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## mklotz (Dec 2, 2009)

They make small tubing cutters that work like their big brothers. I believe I've seen them advertised in the MicroMark catalogue. A cutoff disk in a Dremel works well - especially if you build the Dremel cutoff table I described previously in this forum.

Copper or brass, anneal the tubing before attempting to bend it.

I hope you have more success with those spring things than I had. I rapidly came to the conclusion that there's really no substitute for a proper tubing bender. I've had good success with this little guy...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94571

Perhaps the DuBro pictured is similar.


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## cobra428 (Dec 2, 2009)

-MB
All that stuff you have there comes from a Hobby Shop and some hardware stores. They sell a small tubing cutter also. But......an easy method of cutting it, You'll need a very flat surface take an X-acto knife or single edge razor. Place the tube flat on the surface, take the razor put the sharp edge at the spot you want to cut. Perpendicular both vert and horz. Now roll the tube back and forth applying pressure. After a few back and fourths....wa-la it's cut. It may take a little more with the copper (thick wall) but with brass tube 3 or 4 B and f's it's cut

Hope this helps

Tony


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## cobra428 (Dec 2, 2009)

Marv,
You where posting as I was. Dremel and cut of disc works but you will cut at an angle dremel bigger dia than wheel
Tony


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## mklotz (Dec 2, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Marv,
> You where posting as I was. Dremel and cut of disc works but you will cut at an angle dremel bigger dia than wheel
> Tony



Not if you buy the large diameter cutoff wheels.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 2, 2009)

Thanks, Marv and Cobra for the link and all the tips! I now have a lot more to go on than just minutes ago.

I bought 6 ft of the K&S, plus I also have that much of the 1/8" refrigeration tubing. This should be plenty enough for me to learn on and pipe the engine.

-MB


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## cobra428 (Dec 2, 2009)

Marv


			
				mklotz  said:
			
		

> Not if you buy the large diameter cutoff wheels.



Not to sound like a pompuse ass. I have been building model airplanes for 50 years and cut and bent more fuel tank tubing then is imaginable. The Dremel (even the big wheel) tends to jam. The method I mentioned works the best. It works like a tubing cutter does. Try it, you'll like it

Tony


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 2, 2009)

cobra428  said:
			
		

> Marv
> Not to sound like a pompuse ass. I have been building model airplanes for 50 years and cut and bent more fuel tank tubing then is imaginable. The Dremel (even the big wheel) tends to jam. The method I mentioned works the best. It works like a tubing cutter does. Try it, you'll like it
> 
> Tony



Tony, you bet, I will try every possible way that is suggested before finding what works best for me.

-MB


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## cobra428 (Dec 2, 2009)

No Problem -MB
I'm not trying to force you to my method, try things.
Tony


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 2, 2009)

Tony, I do not interpret (and did not) any ones posted suggestion as anything other than good help full advice. Your method sounds really good as do the suggestions Marv posted. I really appreciate all the help that is available through open posting to-and-by members on this forum. 

I wonder if a swift accurate blow from my meat cleaver would do the trick! :big:

-Metal Butcher :


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## mklotz (Dec 2, 2009)

As a check on what I wrote, I went out to the Garaj Mahal and measured...

Diameter of Dremel handpiece = 0.725"

Diameter of large cutoff wheel = 2"

Therefore, maximum DOC = (2 - 0.725)/2 = 0.64" - more than enough to transect 1/8" tubing.

The cutoff wheel can bind if you attempt to handhold the cut. A support for the Dremel is needed.


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## cobra428 (Dec 2, 2009)

Hey Marv,
I guess I have some old Dremels. Mine are 1-1/2~2in dia. Been building planes a long long time. My latest dremel is about 15~20 years old. My oldest about 30 but it has all the attachments router....etc but sound like a chain saw now. I did buy a small die grinder from HF for $20 (air powered) that's in the .75 dia range.My Dremels. Not going to hijack -MB thread anymore. Sorry -MB 







Tony


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 2, 2009)

Gentlemen, I tried and checked a few of the ideas presented here earlier today.

My model #380 Dremel series 66-3 has a body diameter of 1.690", and I believe my cutoff wheel is 1" in diameter. I did not verify the 1'' diameter as mine seems to be MIA. If I used a larger cut off wheel my shaky hands would make a precision cut difficult at best.

The Exacto knife, while rolling the tube worked well, but expanded the diameter by.0005" and left a small sharp burr at break off. I removed the burr with a file, and it took me 10 revolutions to break through. I'm getting old and weak.

Then I remembered my sons slot car racing days and dug through his archived collection to find his 'mini tubing cutter'. It did a perfect job of cutting the copper tube. There's that "old age" memory thing again working against me, I would have never had to ask about the simple task of cutting a 1/8" tube! 

Accurately bending these short little tubes is going to be another story!

Thanks for all your help. 

-MB


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## cobra428 (Dec 2, 2009)

-MB
Good for you finding the tubing cutter it's the best way. I have a little mini cutter myself plus a big one for doing plumbing for the house. You know air lines for the shop and once and awhile a bathroom remodel. I was just trying to save you a few bucks and a trip to the store (more bucks with the price of gas these days). Anyway, the bending you will have to do trial and error till you get the hang of the bender. Best of luck

Tony


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## Twmaster (Dec 2, 2009)

MB.. I've used a very fine saw to cut that sort of tube. Done carefully it works well and needs very little clean up.

I also fly RC planes and have used a new X-Acto knife to cut tubing.


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## Deanofid (Dec 2, 2009)

MB, another suggestion for you if you need to bend the tubing with the spring type benders; 
If you pack the tube with fine sand, or some other finely ground stuff, (table salt, maybe), you will usually have better luck bending the tubing without kinking problems. It will help support the tubing wall.

Usually, copper tubing is already annealed, so will bend without the need for the annealing treatment. The hobby tubing you have there may be a different case.

Dean


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## shred (Dec 2, 2009)

Steve Hucks and I posted some of our trials and tribulations bending the hobby shop K&S tubing (in my case 1/8" and 5/32") on here a while back. I had very little luck until building a simple bender. 

Here's part of the threads on mine: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4294.msg51972#msg51972

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5071.0

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5094.0


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 3, 2009)

Deanofid, thanks for the tips on packing the tubes, and annealing. You would think the copper tubing would be sold in the soft state since they also offer stiff brass tubing.

Shred, thanks for the informative links, there's lots of good info there worthy of consideration. I can't wait to try out the two benders I have. I'm also wouldn't mind buying and trying out the Harbor Freight model that mlotz provided a link to.

"A simple build?" Yea!

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 3, 2009)

#20 Today I designed and made a simple fly wheel. I leaned a little towards less spoke length and more hub diameter. The purpose of the 1/2" hole through the hub is for an inner hub that needs its details worked out. 

The picture below shows the recessed spoke area machined out to 1/8" less than the width of the fly wheel blank. The six holes for the spokes were drilled and reamed under size (.1865) using a spin fixture. They were drilled to within .020" of the hubs bore.






#21 I cut 6x 3/16' spokes to equal length .040 longer than needed so that the protruding end could be peened tight. I used a wee bit of Loctite to assure a good solid assembly. Wee bit? :big:






#22 The work piece was returned to the lathe to machine off the 1/8" excess that held the hub and rim together. The Loctite was still dripping wet so I was careful to use light cuts. 






#23 I machined a stepped mandrel to accept the fly wheels 1/2" bore. Paper padding was used to prevent marring the hub with the mandrel and washer.

The picture below shows the excess spoke material being machined off, and then the diameter of the rim was reduced to the proper size.






#24 A 1/16" radius was machined on both sides of the inner edges of the rim, and the same was done to the edges of the outer diameter of the hub.

The picture below shows the flywheel in an "as machined" state.






#25 I had time to also machine the brass pistons and the three added aluminum cylinder covers. The middle cover requires a vent hole, since on the original plans the center cylinder is left open exposing the piston.

A few more days, a few more parts, and the pipe fitting can begin!






-MB


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## cobra428 (Dec 3, 2009)

-MB
I LIKE, Very Nice

Tony


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 5, 2009)

#26 Yesterday I soldered the six 1/8" copper tubes that connect the 'valve plate to the 'front plate'. Cutting and fitting the tubes took all day. I gave up on measuring to calculate bend locations that never seemed work out . It was a near maddening experience that was reduced to a cut and bend trial and error. Six feet of tubing was cut and bent with only about a four inch piece left. I settled on results less than satisfactory to remain sane. Below is a picture taken while the build up was cooling.







This seemingly simple piping job turned out to be more difficult than I ever imagined! I would love to see a picture and hear from some one that did the exact piping on this model to see how theirs turned out.

-MB


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## Deanofid (Dec 5, 2009)

I don't know what the original looks like, MB, but these look quite uniform to me.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 5, 2009)

#27 Below are the final pictures of "Turkey", my modified version of Elmer's V3R. My first trial run proved a little problematic. The engine would not run with less than 20 PSI. The middle cylinder was using up most of the air pressure due to its short run of small diameter tubing used in the design. And the longer lines used for the left and right cylinders were suffering a tremendous pressure loss. When I ran water pressure through the lines this was clearly evident. A good solution would be to use larger 3/16"lines to the left and right cylinders. I came up with a way to reduce the middle cylinders consumption by replacing the vented cylinder cover with a solid one identical to the ones used on the left and right cylinders. This trapped air above the cylinder and created a sort of air spring (back preasure) that reduced the consumption of available pressure.

It worked! After replacing the cylinder cover the engine went from a 20 PSI, to a 6 PSI running pressure! Previously the right cylinder lifted just as Elmer mentioned it would. I changed out the spring to a heavier gauge wire and it seems to have been eliminated by that, plus the lower operating pressure is also a factor.

At 6 Psi the engine runs nice and slow, and at about 10-12 PSI its as fast as anyone would want to risk. I did brave it up to 25 PSI for a few seconds to see if it would hold together but that's way too fast for my taste.

Below are several pictures I took today, and my pitiful amateur video for your viewing pleasure. Who cares...its free! Enjoy!









































The slowest speed in the video is at 6 PSI, and at the highest speed it is 12 PSI.
Note: No air molecules were harmed during the filming of this video. :big:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-ganzD2UXc[/ame]

Thanks for all your help and support. 
-MB


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## Twmaster (Dec 5, 2009)

Oh. My. God.

That is magnificent!


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## rake60 (Dec 5, 2009)

Beautiful MB! :bow:

Rick


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## cobra428 (Dec 5, 2009)

-MB,
Thank is fantastic I haven't heard that song in a long time :big:

Just kidding, Really Really Nice Engine. She runs like a dream and I see the tubing thing you got down pat.

Congrats  th_wav

Tony


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## Twmaster (Dec 5, 2009)

I do have a couple of questions...

1. How do you clean up the the soldered joints? By clean I mean make'em purdy so they don't look like they have blobs of solder...

2. Paint. What surface prep for painting the brass and other metals?


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## lathe nut (Dec 5, 2009)

MB, that is very impressive, not only looks good but runs good, that a lot of work there, did another copy and paste, thanks for the pictures and tips on how to, Lathe Nut


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## Deanofid (Dec 5, 2009)

Nicely done, MB. And the Doors! Yeah.

Dean


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 5, 2009)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> I do have a couple of questions...
> 
> 1. How do you clean up the the soldered joints? By clean I mean make'em purdy so they don't look like they have blobs of solder...
> 
> 2. Paint. What surface prep for painting the brass and other metals?



Hi Twmaster, 
#1, I didn't do any clean up other than scrub off the flux residue in preparation for paint. I heated the brass from behind and carefully touched the intersection between the brass plates and the copper tubing with very thin fluxed solder. It flows into the pre-fluxed joints leaving a thin (tinned) layer surrounding the joint area. For good flow to fill in the small .001" gap I used Harris rosin core 30% tin. I get that "blobbing" problem with other solders.
 #2 To prep for paint I scrub with 400 grit sand paper or in tight quarters I use small pieces of a Scotch Brite pad. Its very important to spray on a few light coats of primer before you spray on your finish color coat(s). I use a self etching primer on aluminum. On steel or brass a red oxide primer works well. All pieces to be painted should be absolutely clean of grease, oil, dust, finger prints, etc. A very small piece of paper towel moist with solvent like M.E.K. or lacquer thinner, wiped over the pieces will do the trick. 

Warning: BE CAREFUL to read and understand the dangers and proper disposal methods of these products due to their high flammability and potential health hazards. 

Be smart, be safe!

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 5, 2009)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> Nicely done, MB. And the Doors! Yeah.
> 
> Dean



Hi Dean, I have a radio on 24/7 in my shop and my (smoke) break room (the garage).

Helps to keep me from goin nuts! Or do I mean nutier? :big:

-MB


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## Twmaster (Dec 5, 2009)

Thanks for the info MB. Very helpful.


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## gbritnell (Dec 5, 2009)

Excellent build MB. The finish on the engine is outstanding, the colors, the bare metal and the wood base. Oh yeah, and it runs nice too.
gbritnell


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## mklotz (Dec 6, 2009)

MB, that is some seriously beautiful engine building. Well done indeed.
You've really got the color scheme nailed (although I would have left those beautiful copper pipes in their natural state).


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## 4156df (Dec 6, 2009)

MB,
I agree with everything that has been said about the quality of the build. It's beautiful. What I can't get over is how quickly you built it. Less than a month....how do you do that???
Dennis


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## Twmaster (Dec 6, 2009)

> ...how do you do that???



He has mastered the art of being in two places at one time!


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## kvom (Dec 6, 2009)

Another nice build and a great runner. Of course, a "turkey" should have been ready by Thanksgiving.  ;D

What's next?


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 6, 2009)

Denofid, zeeprogramer, Twmaster, gbritnell, mklotz, cobra 428, shred, rake60, lathe nut, 4156df, kvom, and others.

Thanks! For all your positive comments and support. I find your interest in my projects to be very inspirational and instrumental to my efforts. Knowing you are watching my work helps me to focus on trying to do my very best. And its great members like you that make me happy and proud to be a member on this forum! Sincerly :bow:.

-MB


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## cfellows (Dec 6, 2009)

Lovely build, MB. You sure know how to make'm look and run nice. And you don't let any grass grow under your feet in the process!

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 6, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Lovely build, MB. You sure know how to make'm look and run nice. And you don't let any grass grow under your feet in the process!
> 
> Chuck



Thanks Chuck I appreciate your uplifting comment! I try my best, and do with the materials and basic skills on hand. As far as makin them purty..."Honey" always say's "Its not that I'm a good cook, you were hungry like a wolf"" If "Honey" is "busy" I get a tasty looking hot dog ona bun, and I say "Wow!, how did you know I was in the mood for one of these!" And every one is happy!

It takes me 30 minutes to get up in the morning. If I sit or lay down, within 30 minutes Rigor Mortis starts to set in! I may be slower than a slug, but I stay on the move all day. I worry about the grass that's gonna grow above me. 

Enough of this morbid talk. Lets get back to our shops! "Honey's" home and I need to make myself scarce! :big:

-MB


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## Maryak (Dec 6, 2009)

rake60  said:
			
		

> Beautiful MB! :bow:
> 
> Rick



Me too :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## ozzie46 (Dec 6, 2009)

Great Job MB. I don't always post on you builds but I follow every one. Just as I do numerous others. I learn from everyone of them. Sometimes I even know something and can contribute. ;D ;D Not often though.

 Ron


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 6, 2009)

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Great Job MB. I don't always post on you builds but I follow every one. Just as I do numerous others. I learn from everyone of them. Sometimes I even know something and can contribute. ;D ;D Not often though.
> 
> Ron



Thanks Ron! 

I know what you mean. I too follow build threads and other posts and seldom post. Either I don't know what to say, or can't spend the time to compose a post that makes any sense to any one but me, and by then its already been said by a previos poster. If I posted as much as I would like to there would be no time left to drill any holes. One finger typing is really slow! Going back over and over to edit mistakes that were missed reading the preview is very frustrating at times.

But I try my best. 

-MB


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## hobby (Mar 13, 2010)

As always beautiful workmanship.

You do a fantastic job, in the finishing touches on your models, the paint jobs are outstanding.

You always do an exceptional job, in explaining the details in your build, I like to follow your works in progress, learn a lot of good tips.

Keep up the great work.


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 13, 2010)

hobby  said:
			
		

> As always beautiful workmanship.
> 
> You do a fantastic job, in the finishing touches on your models, the paint jobs are outstanding.
> 
> ...



Thanks hobby!

I really enjoy hearing from members like you that find my posts informative and useful. Learning while I build my projects is half the fun. Sharing my experiences with others is the other, but more important half. 

-Rick


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