# Zx45 wiring question



## Naiveambition (Nov 25, 2014)

Ive been trying to read Chinese wiring diagrams and well.....:wall::wall::wall:


I've found a better version on bolton tools website.   I am trying to hook up to 220v, and machine is now 110v.

  From the book it gives pics of the on/off switch from top and side angles.  I understand how to switch the motor controller to 220v, so my question is would you also have to rewire the on/off forward/reverse switch also.?


The manual has me thinking that the switch would be wired both voltages and just change the motor controller contacts. 

I can't post the website or the PDF. so here is a pic of what I have, same as manual. This is the top rear of the switch. 

Thanx for any help


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## Naiveambition (Nov 25, 2014)

Here's the motor controller configured for 220v.


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## Naiveambition (Nov 25, 2014)

As you can see just the jumpers are moved to make the change,  so.... Do I change switch wiring also?


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## Naiveambition (Dec 30, 2014)

Can anyone with electrical knowledge please decipher this for me.  Reverse is for regular milling direction but it does not show how to hookup forward. I am missing how the U2 lead is wired in so I will have tapping abilities.

 As you can see in the photo it does not give a path for U2. On any other voltage including three phase all wires are used. When I try to switch to forward the motor hums but does not turn. Sounds like it is missing the other leg. 

. The other previous posted photos show all wires hooked up but these are different motor wiring diagrams. Also in other photos you will notice that the bars you change for 220v only use one. My diagram shows you to make an "L" with them.  

Any help is greatly appreciateed


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## Ken I (Dec 30, 2014)

I downloaded the photo and zoomed in. I would guess U2 should be next to U1 (top right terminal in photo) - that connection appears to be missing from the Chinese legend plate.

A better photo of the aluminium connection diagram plate will help - I can't read it as is.

Also your jumper positions don't match your prior post ? the "L" jumper links in your last post do match the plate - so I presume the connections are as follows :-






Take all jumpers and connections off - there should be four sets of windings as per above (generally two centretapped pairs for 220/100V use).

I have used plus and minus symbols so you can follow how the power runs through the coils as parralell pairs for 110V and in series for 220V but when you change U+ now pairs with V- so this will probably reverse the motor as well (maybe not but possibly)

One set of windings will be connected via a starting capacitor by changing which winding is connected to the capacitor you will change the rotation of the motor.

All 4 wires must be used.  One leg has the capacitor in it - by switching around it will reverse - with the missing wire it will not start and just hum as only one set of windings is energised.

You should not have to change the switch wiring.

Its getting late here and I'm losing the plot - I can see errors in my drawing - but I presume you will get the general idea and come right. If I get a moment I'll try and rectify this.

Regards,
            Ken


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## Naiveambition (Dec 30, 2014)

Here's the better photo of the motor plate. If you notice the connections are vertical and the diagram is horizontal. But the letters on the plastic block are as follows.  

U1.    Z2 

V1.     U2

Z1.      V2.   This is vertical position of connection plate which is in photo of previous post

Per diagram jumpers are between v1 to U2 and U2 to Z2.  As you see in this posts photo it does not give a path for U2.

I have It hooked up now using this plate diagram, and runs fine using 220v running in reverse but am still missing the last leg and/or forward.


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## kf2qd (Dec 30, 2014)

Need to look at the wires going to the capacitor. Typically there are 3 wires running from the motor. One is common or neutral for 110VAC or L2 for 220VAC. The other 2 wires connect to the capacitor. Which ever side of the capacitor L1 connects to decides the direction of rotation.

Some motors only connect the capacitor for starting. On those, the motor runs very hot if the start cap is left connected.


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## Naiveambition (Dec 31, 2014)

Ok we are hooked up an running both ways.  Talked to engineer at bolton tools and he sent this photo for hookups.  

Still seems wrong according to motor plate diagram.  Only thing I can think of is that this plate also goes on a one direction motor, which makes sense for typical 3 wire hookup. Also noted is that the forward/reverse is now correct.  China hmmm.?:wall::wall::rant::rant: 

Anyways I will finish this thread out saying thank you to all who responded. That really is the beauty of this website ( besides the motors of course) is that there are so many people willing to offer their time and knowledge.

So here is the photo to help any others that run into this issue. He did mention that wire colors could be different so follow the letter on the wires

Vertical position of plate top to bottom

U2.         V2

--bridge--

V1.         U1


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## Ken I (Dec 31, 2014)

I was in the process of responding vis :-






The legend plate on your machine is wrong - this is the only configuration I can come up with that works.

Note: No jumper may "short" a coil whether in use or not (that was the fault I spotted in my earlier post) and the jumpers shown on your legend plate don't work or allow a reversible configuration.

The 110V jumpers put the coils in parallel - for 220V you only have to remove them (they are placed across a neutral connection - someplace to keep them).

The fact that the legend plate is wrong is shocking - but the sort of thing I've come to expect from Chinese manufacturers.

Regards,
             Ken


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## Herbiev (Dec 31, 2014)

It is a wonder these machines are allowed into the country with wiring diagrams totally incorrect. Probably needs someone to be electrocuted before the authorities react


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## canadianhorsepower (Dec 31, 2014)

Herbiev said:


> It is a wonder these machines are allowed into the country with wiring diagrams totally incorrect. Probably needs someone to be electrocuted before the authorities react


 
 I totally agree with you. I'm in Canada blew a motor on one of my lathe it was under waranty fine. The supplier went thrue 4 motors before getting one that would match the diagram

 cheers


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Ken I said:


> I downloaded the photo and zoomed in. I would guess U2 should be next to U1 (top right terminal in photo) - that connection appears to be missing from the Chinese legend plate.
> 
> A better photo of the aluminium connection diagram plate will help - I can't read it as is.
> 
> ...


 Hello I am new to this forum,
 I'm having similar issues to the same condition.
 2 horse power to 220 motor. 
 Able to get one direction but not the other (reversing)
 I've tried many different scenarios with no luck
 Would you or anybody in this forum be able to help my situation.
 Here's a picture of the name plate of the motor.


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Another photo


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## Ken I (Sep 15, 2020)

Again a diagram that doesn't make a lot of sense - it shows two capacitors.

Basically you have two sets of windings - one is in series with the capacitor - that causes a change in phase angle by 90° so the motor turns.

By swopping the cap to the other winding you reverse the direction. For such use the windings are offset by 90° the motor works equally poorly in both directions.

Remove all connections and identify the two windings - the rest should be straightforward.

However the phase shift is never going to be 90° so they shift the angle between the windings - so the motor will not work as well reversed.

So they have used a bigger capacitor for one of the rotations to offset this ?

If there are two capacitors then they are in series one with each winding - one will be shorted for forward and the other for reverse (not both together - that will just hum - get hot - all the blue smoke put there by the manufacturer comes out).

If you get the 150UF where the 20UF should be one direction will be much less powerful that the other  - it will overheat but slowly so it won't just blow up in your face.

Diagnostics at a distance is always a little too much guesswork for my liking - I hope this helps.

This could be further complicated by an internal centrifugal switch which disconnects the "start" winding - you normally hear a distinct "click/ whirrr' sound as the motor stops - I haven't seen that used for years so its unlikely.

Dope out the internal connections and get back to me.

Regards,  Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Ken I said:


> Again a diagram that doesn't make a lot of sense - it shows two capacitors.
> 
> Basically you have two sets of windings - one is in series with the capacitor - that causes a change in phase angle by 90° so the motor turns.
> 
> ...


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Here's how it's wired up does have 2 capacitors 1 run 1 start and a centrifugal switch


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Here's a picture of the switch controlling it


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)




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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Red wire on u1 was landed


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Terminal block identification 

U1.           Z2w2

V1.             U2


Z1w1.      V2


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Pictures of terminal strip totally disconnected prior to wiring


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Thank you Ken for any help with this.  Prefer not to let the white smoke out from the unit.


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Ok,  all leads disconnected 

U1.                       TO.                    U2.  = 2.1 Ohms

V1.                       TO.                    V2 = 0.2 Ohms

Z1W1.                  TO.                   Z2W2. =5 2 Ohms


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## jcollings (Sep 15, 2020)

Both caps were also out of the loop. FYI


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## Ken I (Sep 16, 2020)

O.K. Does the mains come on to the remaining 2 terminals on the switch.

With the wires off - check the continuity of the switches - I presume all 3 pairs are open in the off position 2 pairs closed in the forward position and 2 in the reverse - only one pair will be common. I presume this is a frd/off/rev switch ? Are there terminal on the other side ? I there are more switch connections - are they open / closed in what position ?

On the motor connector block are the two terminals (at the bottom of the photo above) connected into the motor or are they just terminals - I suspect they will be connected to the centrifugal switch. Remove the terminals & check for continuity - are they open or closed with the motor stopped ?

Remove the wires from U1U2 and V1V2 from the motor and measure the resistance of each - since this is a motor with a start and run winding, the run winding will be heavier and have lower resistance. 

I suspect this :-




I have drawn V1V2 as "heavy" and therefore the "run" wind - could just as easily be U1U2 and I would presume the run switch is closed with the motor not spinning.

Sorry for all the questions but with the motor and switch in front of me, I could probably dope this out in a few minutes with a meter.

Is there a wiring diagram in the handbook ?


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## jcollings (Sep 16, 2020)

No wiring diagram anywhere in hand book, this motor is an upgrade from a 110 set up to 220 for lower amps.
 If this was American it wouldn't be so bad but this Chinese [email protected] really confuses me.
 I'll get back to you with the switch info


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 16, 2020)

Hi Jcollings what you have is a 3 pole changeover switch. It is not ideal to use as a reversing switch for a single phase motor but it can be made to work but it means that one terminal of the main winding will permanently be connected to the neutral conductor when the switch is in the off position. Those links that are on your switch are in the wrong position and you will need to add extra links.


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## jcollings (Sep 16, 2020)

Yeah I know that the one picture that I sent with the red wire that was not landed , if I swapped that with black I do get the reverse rotation  But Still in the right position.
 Every time going to the left position it just hums , only getting 120 not 230.


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 16, 2020)

The reason that it is humming is not because it is getting 120v, it is actually getting 240v but the switch is only applying power to one winding and not to both windings and therefore the motor will not start.


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 16, 2020)

This is your switching configuration.


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## jcollings (Sep 16, 2020)

At work right now, I will confirm what I had rung out and reply back,


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## HMEL (Sep 16, 2020)

Your motor will run either direction with the same efficiency.  The capacitor and centrifugal switch are used to cause a  second phase on start up. On start up the motor sees two rotating phases.  The reversing of the terminals is to change polarity so the motor turns in the direction you want then that winding is taken out of service with the centrifugal switch.  The motor then will stay in synch with the single phase rotating field. 

There are other types of start windings.  But I got from the conversation you have a centrifugal switch.

You need to check and make sure your reversing switch is doing what it is supposed to do.  These things can get confusing sometimes.  However unless you disassemble that motor and check the leads to the windings you have to trust what is on the name plate.  Otherwise its a flat out guess as to how it is wired internally.

I usually try to determine which terminals are the start windings and go from there.

But do make sure you start with the correct line voltage set up.  Then sort out the terminals and make sure you understand they conform to your understanding of the terminal labels.  The physical layout may be different then the schematic layout. Check the reversing switch contacts.  And hopefully you are home free.

Good luck


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## Ken I (Sep 16, 2020)

Based on your earlier values V1V2 ().2 Ohm) is your run winding and U1U2 (2.1 Ohm) is your start winding.

What happens if you apply voltage to your run winding is that it will just sit there and hum - but if you were to spin it (fast enough) it would run in either direction.

So what happens is we put power on the run winding - and power on the Start winding via the 20UF cap (which changes the phase angle) and this causes the motor to rotate (lets say clockwise) once up to speed the centrifugal switch turns off the start winding (no longer required).

Now to make it run the other way would connect power to the start winding without the capacitor and to the run winding via a bigger capacitor - the motor will now start the other way and the centrifugal switch turns off the start winding.

Only now we have the motor running permanently off the larger cap - which can then be shorted out (no longer required) - but I suspect your system has no way to do that - so your reverse power will be slightly less.

However the rotary switch might have some "magic" connection I am unaware of.

It is possible being "Chinese" that they turn on both start and run via caps for reverse and allow the "run" to defeat the weaker "start" setup - horrible - but based on what I have seen - probably the way they did it.

Regards,  Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 16, 2020)

OK I rung out the switch.
 Here is a very rudimentary diagram with my numbering.  Every other terminal that was not on was off.
 Originally this switch also had jumpers from 9 and 12 and 8 and 11 according to my numbering diagram.
 These have been removed.
 Like I said rudimentary diagram but hopefully you can understand it.


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## Ken I (Sep 16, 2020)

Getting there - I can see a problem right off but meantime see if my diagram agrees with your ringing out the switch - then hopefully I can figure it all out.






Mid position I assume is all off as I have indicated.

Regards - Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 16, 2020)

Ken I said:


> Getting there - I can see a problem right off but meantime see if my diagram agrees with your ringing out the switch - then hopefully I can figure it all out.
> 
> View attachment 119392
> 
> ...


 Correct middle position all off


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## jcollings (Sep 16, 2020)

Ken I said:


> Getting there - I can see a problem right off but meantime see if my diagram agrees with your ringing out the switch - then hopefully I can figure it all out.
> 
> View attachment 119392
> 
> ...


 Yes your professional diagram is the same as to what my rudimentary diagram tested out to be.


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 16, 2020)

Hi, have a look at the switching diagram that I sent. This is the internal switching of your switch without the links.
You will have to link the correct terminals together to make it reverse the motor.
I am at work at the moment but if I have some spare time I will draw out the wiring diagram for you otherwise I will do it when I get home.


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## jcollings (Sep 16, 2020)

Claudio Masetto said:


> Hi, have a look at the switching diagram that I sent. This is the internal switching of your switch without the links.
> You will have to link the correct terminals together to make it reverse the motor.
> I am at work at the moment but if I have some spare time I will draw out the wiring diagram for you otherwise I will do it when I get home.


 You did read post 25 from Ken as to how the switch I have rung out?
 I did remove those 2 jumpers on the switch as to when they were installed there was plenty of breaker tripping and problems for this to 230 set up.


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## HMEL (Sep 16, 2020)

With a two capacitor motor at start the capacitors are wired in parallel and this in series with the start winding.  At about 75% rpm the centrifugal switch will unload the high value capacitor and the low value capacitor and winding stay energized.  What this does is yield a high starting torque and a high running torque.  Its similar to a one capacitor motor except only the high value capacitor is removed.  Reverse occurs by reversing the leads on the start winding.  

This is the type of motor I believe you have.  If the switch is a simple gang type switch you can trace out the logic.  If its a rotary design you might need the manufactures specification sheet to pick up the correct terminals.


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## Ken I (Sep 17, 2020)

J - This is how I see it wired up (complying with the motor's label) :-





It appears the original jumpers were correct.

This is what happens :-




U1U2 appears to be the run winding and is always switched on with the same phasing when running.
V1V2 is the start winding,
You will notice the start coil (V1V2) coil is reversed (with respect to phasing) when starting the other way. This coil is turned off by the cenrifugal switch once the motor is up to speed (70-80% thereof-ish)
(I have used red for live and blue for neutral to show phasing rather than preferred connection - it doesn't actually matter which is which).
I presume the bigger capacitor is the start capacitor.
The smaller capacitor - I suspect - is simply to drain down auto-induced voltages in the start winding - which it does in series with the larger capacitor once the centrifugal switch has opened - which I would presume is of some benefit to performance as well.

Since the smaller capacitor is hard on  to the mains when starting - it might serve as a power factor correction capacitor to reduce demand during starting.

Other than that, I can't see what it does.

It's definitely incorrectly connected in the earlier photo you supplied - across the start switch.

I think your problem is partly due to the label diagram - though diagrammatically correct - does not correspond to the physical layout of the terminals.

Hope all this helps.

Regards - Ken


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 17, 2020)

Hi, I have attached a drawing showing how to connect your reversing switch. Note that U2 is permanently connected  to the neutral terminal. The wires that cross do not connect. This will work provided that the wires going to the terminal block of the motor are connected as the photo shows in your number 15 post. As you can see the main winding U1 & U2 do not reverse but the auxilary winding V1 & V2 with both capacitors is reversed in respect to the main winding.
Ken, your wiring diagram does not allow for the smaller capacitor ( the run Capacitor) to remain in series with the auxilary winding. This capacitor gives the motor extra torque when it is running. Without it the motor will not develop its full power.


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## Ken I (Sep 17, 2020)

Claudio - keeping the capacitor on the auxiliary winding totally negates the need for a centrifugal switch - other than to remove the bigger one once the motor is started (a possibility - but not one I'm familiar with)

The problem with running both windings is resultant phase angle between them which is load dependent - so typically used to drive pumps, compressors etc with pretty constant loading (even if it is intermittent).

For what might be sustained loads at almost any value the auxiliary winding is switched out - less torque to be sure - but also less heating due to parasitic currents caused by out of phase windings - effectively fighting each other (other than at whatever nominal output is correct).

Having said that - you could well be right. However guided by the switch and motor label, I think I'm correct. The switch configuration indicates to me its intention is to be an isolator in the off position - your set up isn't.

Your set-up will give more torque but also more heat and less efficiency (probably at the low end) - maybe J wants to try both set-ups.

Regards, Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Run capacitor is on the left, Rin 


capacitor is on the left


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Start capacitor is on the right


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Ken I said:


> J - This is how I see it wired up (complying with the motor's label) :-
> View attachment 119398
> 
> It appears the original jumpers were correct.
> ...



 So you're saying install these jumpers on the below statement I made earlier before trying to fire it up?

"Originally this switch also had jumpers from 9 and 12 and 8 and 11 according to my numbering diagram."


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## Ken I (Sep 17, 2020)

At your motor - the white wire labled V2 should be on ZW2 and the brown cap wire on ZW2 should be on V2 (ie swop them) to comply with the legend plate (It still feed V2 but via the cap).

Now as you have the caps the other way around to my diagram - it may be that is the way - it will work with the caps swopped - I'm just not sure which will be better. Try it with the caps either way around. The way around that starts quickest is correct (most torque / acceleration).
did the motor come with those caps assembled as they are ?

And Claudio's method may be more correct than mine.

Mine is the way the motor legend plate shows it - but the legend plate does not indicate which cap is the 150 and which cap is the 20.

Terminal connections at switch :-

White on to 9 + jumper to 12
Brown onto 8 + Jumper to 11
Black onto 10
Red on to 7

Live on to 4
Neutral on to 1

No other jumpers.

Did the kit come with those labels on the wires ? (unfortunately it doesn't mean it's correct as the cable may be for more than one kit and they don't bother).
Regards, Ken


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 17, 2020)

Hi Ken, this type of motor is called a capacitor start capacitor run motor. The larger starting capacitor cannot be kept energised for very long but it provides the motor  with a large starting torque until the centrifugal switch picks up speed and cuts this capacitor out of the starting circuit.
The smaller value run capacitor is designed to remain in the starting circuit and provide the motor with extra torque. Manufactures use this method these days to enable a larger horsepower to be obtained from a smaller frame. 75% of the single phase motors produced these days use this method.
Jcollings  reversing switch is a 3 pole changeover switch. This is a common setup on a Chinese single phase motor which is used for reversing.
This is why one side of the main winding is connected to the Neutral permanently. There are not enough poles on that switch. A proper single phase reversing switch is a 4 pole changeover switch. The Chinese do this because of cost. They use a 3 phase switch which they have plenty of.


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Excellent !   when I hook it up and test it I will be back with you on results. 
 All your help is  Greatly appreciated.

Thank you!


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Ken I said:


> At your motor - the white wire labled V2 should be on ZW2 and the brown cap wire on ZW2 should be on V2 (ie swop them) to comply with the legend plate.
> 
> Now as you have the caps the other way around to my diagram - it may be that is the way - it will work with the caps swopped - I'm just not sure which will be better. Try it with the caps either way around. The way around that starts quickest is correct (most torque / acceleration).
> did the motor come with those caps assembled as they are ?
> ...



 All the wire labeling and switch numbering that is on the switch was factory when received for the original 110 set up.
 The only numbering that is different is from the diagram that I posted with my numbering just for convenience for me to understand better.


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## Ken I (Sep 17, 2020)

Claudio, Thanks for your input - certainly confusing clues given by the switch used and poor plate illustration - so you are probably correct - I'm certainly not terribly familiar with this type of set up although my own Chinese lathe has a dual cap set up and the starting torque is awful - I've never pulled it apart - I now think that is something I should do - I was going to rewind and install a VFD - but I'll check out what the idiots have done first.
Regards - Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Claudio Masetto said:


> Hi Ken, this type of motor is called a capacitor start capacitor run motor. The larger starting capacitor cannot be kept energised for very long but it provides the motor  with a large starting torque until the centrifugal switch picks up speed and cuts this capacitor out of the starting circuit.
> The smaller value run capacitor is designed to remain in the starting circuit and provide the motor with extra torque. Manufactures use this method these days to enable a larger horsepower to be obtained from a smaller frame. 75% of the single phase motors produced these days use this method.
> Jcollings  reversing switch is a 3 pole changeover switch. This is a common setup on a Chinese single phase motor which is used for reversing.
> This is why one side of the main winding is connected to the Neutral permanently. There are not enough poles on that switch. A proper single phase reversing switch is a 4 pole changeover switch. The Chinese do this because of cost. They use a 3 phase switch which they have plenty of.



So you're saying a regular drum switch example furnas R44 or square  D.  2601 type would be more appropriate?


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 17, 2020)

Hi J, a word of caution and advice. Even though the switch is in the OFF position and the motor is not running, one side of the supply will still remain connected to the motor. This is dangerous and if any electrical work is to be done on the motor the machine must be unplugged from the supply. I'm sure that this setup does not comply with your Electrical Codes.
You should consider installing a proper 4 pole single phase reversing switch. This way, when the switch is in the OFF position the motor will be isolated from both sides of the supply.
Unfortunately the Chinese pay little attention to safety and wiring codes and we find that a lot of machinery that comes from China has to be rewired to meet our Electrical Codes.
I am not familiar with the two types of drum switches which you have described.
Ken, you should not have poor starting torque with a dual capacitor motor. Maybe your start capacitor is faulty or it is not wired correctly in the starting circuit.


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Claudio,
Please review this paperwork insert for a selection of different scenarios for an AR14 switch,  Do any of these sequence meet what you described.


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Ken I said:


> At your motor - the white wire labled V2 should be on ZW2 and the brown cap wire on ZW2 should be on V2 (ie swop them) to comply with the legend plate (It still feed V2 but via the cap).
> 
> Now as you have the caps the other way around to my diagram - it may be that is the way - it will work with the caps swopped - I'm just not sure which will be better. Try it with the caps either way around. The way around that starts quickest is correct (most torque / acceleration).
> did the motor come with those caps assembled as they are ?
> ...



 When the motor was sent to me that's where the Were positioned V-1 Z1W1 and V-2 terminal on motor white block


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Ok,   Running in both directions.
 One leg amps 4.2 and 4.4
 Other leg 4.2. 4.4 
 Those values for forward and reverse.
 See pictures as to how wires are landed


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 17, 2020)

What's your connections on the other side of the switch?


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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)




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## jcollings (Sep 17, 2020)

Post 17 a picture might be clearer


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## Ken I (Sep 18, 2020)

J - re: your prior post - is it now working wired as per photos ?
Regardless of anything else - that 150UF cap connected across ZW1/ZW2 (Centrifugal switch ?) goes nowhere and the centrifugal switch would be shorting out a non-functioning capacitor.
Makes no sense at all.
Unless.....
There are some links to the windings below the terminal block to the windings - or a jumper is missing - or ZW1/ZW2 is something else.... whatever..... something wrong right there.
But if it's working - put the covers back on and open a frosty.




(Image off internet - caps incorrectly drawn as electrolytics)

Claudio - I presume this is the set up ?

Start capacitor in parallel with run capacitor until switched out by the centrifugal switch - I would have thought the start capacitor would be the bigger value ?

I see in J's photo the 20UF is physically larger than the 150UF - presumably because being the run capacitor it has a higher continuous kVAr rating whereas the start capacitor is for intermittent duty.

The photos still don't make sense nonetheless.

Regards, Ken


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## Ken I (Sep 18, 2020)

J - I'm pretty sure this is it - based on everything thus far - but the legend plate is wrong (shocker) and the start cap is connected wrong.

To fix it you need to remove the blue wire from the 150UF cap off terminal ZW1 and move it to V1.

If your motor is running it will have very poor starting torque because the start cap is effectively not in the circuit at all (might be what's wrong with my own lathe).

The diagram below will provide stop (full isolate), forward and reverse off your existing switch - use the 150UF for starting in paralell with the 20UF run capacitor.





Showing power routing in the forward position :-




and the reverse position.




As JB Meyer once said of a 13th century sun dial "clever these Chinese".

Regards, Ken


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## Claudio Masetto (Sep 18, 2020)

Hi Ken, that diagram that you got of the internet is correct. The start capacitor is the higher capacitance capacitor. The start capacitor will also have a lower voltage rating than the run capacitor. If your motor is sluggish at starting you may have a faulty start capacitor or the centrifugal switch may be open circuit at the start not allowing the capacitor to be in circuit.


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## jcollings (Sep 18, 2020)

Ok, i will move 150UF cap off terminal ZW1 and move it to V1 and report back to you guys.  I wanna say again how much I appreciate this and everybody's help.
 This is the 1st time that the mill has been on a table and running after when I purchased it. i  lifted it up to put on the table and it the strap broke and it fell 5' in hit the ground.
 That's where thee  original motor shaft was bent severely crack and broke some other lead screw, and other pieces and control Box, which needs to be put back together.


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## Ken I (Sep 18, 2020)

J - one last thing - check all the connections to the block - I see the block labels are in different positions to what I assumed in the earlier drawings.

My earlier drawings V2 & ZW2 must be swopped top to bottom to be physically correct - The diagrams below are exactly as per prior but with the terminals drawn as they present themselves at the motor to avoid confusion (well it confused me anyway - but that's easily done).




Power Flow for forward





Power Flow Reverse




If you follow the above - the reversing switch is an isolator in the off position. Forward and reverse change the polarity of the start winding and the start capacitor boosts the start up to centrifugal switch cutout speed but the run capacitor remains engaged.
Now going by your earlier photo (and of the block on its own).





The white wire marked V2 (currently on the top right ZW2 terminal) should be on the bottom right V2 terminal.
The 150UF start cap currently connected to the bottom left and right terminals (ZW1 & V2) should be connected to the middle left terminal (V1) and the top right terminal (ZW2)

Check your way through the entire circuit. And make sure the terminal block is as per diagram above.

Hopefully this puts this one finally to bed.

Regards, Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 18, 2020)

Here is the orientation and nomenclature for the white block terminal


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## Ken I (Sep 18, 2020)

J - That's how I've drawn it above - that's why I changed the diagram (but not the actual circuit) because when I flipped back through the thread I saw that very photo and realized I had misread the layout - so the most recent diagrams take that into account.
I have edited my prior posts' photo to include it side by side.
Regards - Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 18, 2020)

So as wired up as is, Are the correct condition? Correct?
to confirm.


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## Ken I (Sep 18, 2020)

Assuming the terminal block is still wired as per photo above then.......

U1 & U2 are reversed - that is not a problem you can swop them to change forward to reverse and vice versa - leave them alone for now.

The white wire marked V2 (currently on the top right ZW2 terminal) should be on the bottom right V2 terminal.
The 150UF start cap currently connected to the bottom left and right terminals (ZW1 & V2) should be connected to the middle left terminal (V1) and the top right terminal (ZW2)

As per above swop the "start" cap brown wire with the V2 white wire from top to bottom right. Then remove the start cap blue wire (and only the start cap - leave the run cap blue wire where it is on ZW1) from bottom left terminal and move it to the left middle terminal where it will join up with the existing blue and brown (V1) wire.

Regards - Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 20, 2020)

Ken,
 This  Wiring blew breaker when engaged and turn switch to the right immediately


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## jcollings (Sep 20, 2020)

Put back to this wiring here and motor much happier forward reverse no issues no problem 4.3 amp draw on all legs


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## Ken I (Sep 21, 2020)

J - If it's working - and that even current draw says it is - leave it alone.

Did you also previously change the switch wiring - as that may have fixed the original problem - and I just helped you to unfix it, 

All's well that ends well.

I pulled out my lathe motor over the weekend and can find nothing wrong with it - I think at 550W its just simply underpowered for the machine.

I'm going to rewind it for 90V Delta three phase and run it up to 220V off a VFD at up to 120 Hz + ratio change going to get 1.4kW out of it - will post an article on that job when I'm finished.

Regards, Ken


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## jcollings (Sep 21, 2020)

Yes I have a South bend laithe that I put it in inverter duty motor on and VFD that makes it easier for reversing and hook up


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## jcollings (Nov 26, 2020)

jcollings said:


> Put back to this wiring here and motor much happier forward reverse no issues no problem 4.3 amp draw on all legs


 OK, everything working good except forward in reverse is backwards.
 can you suggest which wires to switch to correct?

Thank you, 
John C


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## jcollings (Nov 26, 2020)

There's a picture


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## jcollings (Nov 26, 2020)

jcollings said:


> There's a picture


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## jcollings (Nov 26, 2020)

Well, I guess I'll just deal with it in one way or another. 

Happy holidays!


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## Ken I (Nov 27, 2020)

John, if you swop U1 & U2 wires around that should solve your forward / reverse problem.

You can do it at the motor - probably the easiest - or you can accomplish the same by swopping wires 10 & 12 at the switch - (terminals U1 & U2 come to at the switch in your photo - in my diagrams above it would be 7 & 10 - ignore that).

In the meantime I have rewound my single phase to three phase :-

Single Phase To Three Phase Rewind - Lathe Uprate

Regards, Ken


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## jcollings (Nov 27, 2020)

Ken I said:


> John, if you swop U1 & U2 wires around that should solve your forward / reverse problem.
> 
> You can do it at the motor - probably the easiest - or you can accomplish the same by swopping wires 10 & 12 at the switch - (terminals U1 & U2 come to at the switch in your photo - in my diagrams above it would be 7 & 10 - ignore that).
> 
> ...


 Ken,
so that's what I thought I was doing it just as you sent the reply, so you rewound the motor for 3 phase instead of just doing a VFD?


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## Ken I (Nov 27, 2020)

John, You do get single phase to single phase VFD's - but I had a single phase to 3 phase to hand and I wanted to use it to crank way more power out of the existing motor. I have effectively ramped up my piddley underpowered 550W motor to 2.2kW.
You get more torque and smoother torque delivery from three phase as well.
Regards, Ken


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