# Nickel plating



## Master (Jun 28, 2020)

Tried my hand at nickel plating.  May have left item in solution too long.  It turned black.  The black does polish off, but the result is an odd silver/yellow color.


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## roughcaster (Jun 29, 2020)

hi i think your power source could be to high this is the usual cause, gary


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## Master (Jun 29, 2020)

I used a 1.5 volt AA battery hoping to keep power down.  I wonder if leaving it in the solution too long is the problem.


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## cl350rr (Jun 30, 2020)

Current may be more important than voltage, try a small wall wart power supply or some resistance to control the lower the current


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## SmithDoor (Jun 30, 2020)

This may help few








						High Quality (and Safe) Nickel Plating
					

High Quality (and Safe) Nickel Plating: Just like my popular copper plating instructable, the aim of this is to do high quality, low cost, and safe electroplating. We will also be making our own electrolyte from scratch instead of buying chemicals online.  If you've looked at my copper pl…




					www.instructables.com
				




Dave


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## a41capt (Jun 30, 2020)

The black smut may be from an impure nickel source. What are you using for the cathode?


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## Master (Jun 30, 2020)

I used 99 % pure nickel for both anode and cathode to make the solution.  Then used the same anode for the plating.  It plated, but wasn't  a pleasing color.  The engine is the Edwards Radial 5.  It came out so nice that I want the plumbing to look the same.  I may just end up painting the exhaust and intake pipes black.  The brass shines up well, but I know it will tarnish in time.


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## doc1955 (Jun 30, 2020)

Master said:


> I used 99 % pure nickel for both anode and cathode to make the solution.  Then used the same anode for the plating.  It plated, but wasn't  a pleasing color.  The engine is the Edwards Radial 5.  It came out so nice that I want the plumbing to look the same.  I may just end up painting the exhaust and intake pipes black.  The brass shines up well, but I know it will tarnish in time.


I did my brass zoomyie tubes that I have for my Little Demon engines and they came out really nice. The most important thing is make sure they are really clean. I put mine in the solution that I made and it only took a minute or so.  I did do videos showing it stop by and take a look.


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## a41capt (Jun 30, 2020)

Master said:


> I used 99 % pure nickel for both anode and cathode to make the solution.  Then used the same anode for the plating.  It plated, but wasn't  a pleasing color.  The engine is the Edwards Radial 5.  It came out so nice that I want the plumbing to look the same.  I may just end up painting the exhaust and intake pipes black.  The brass shines up well, but I know it will tarnish in time.


Another thought, if you’re set on a really nice nickel finish is a brush plating system from Caswell.  I’ve used one of their gold plating brush kits for small firearm parts (triggers, screws, etc.) and the results were great.  Comes with a wall wart, wand, bandages, and solution.  Truly plug and play.

John W


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## Peter Twissell (Jul 1, 2020)

Have you considered electroless plating? I bought a kit from Caswell several years ago and used it for motorcycle parts, with good results.
Unlike electroplating, electroless plating does not build up on edges and effectively plates into crevices, inside bores etc.


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## bobvines (Jul 1, 2020)

It's been a while, but I used to support the plating shops at work (before retirement), but was not a Chemical Engineer.  To get good plating, nickel included, you need the proper current per unit of surface area -- not too high or too low.  I remember that our nickel anodes were kept inside cotton socks made for a close fit on them.  I don't recall whether that was simply to prevent anode particles from falling off & contaminating the bath/part or if it had anything to do with eliminating the blackening.


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## Master (Jul 1, 2020)

Thank you all for the inputs.  I've decided to just leave the intake plumbing polished brass.  Oddly the intake pipes have been the most challenging in this entire project.  After 8 months on the radial, I'm ready for the next challenge.  Thanks again.


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## mayhugh1 (Jul 1, 2020)

If you haven't already seen this, take a look at post #290. There might be an answer there:






						270 Offy
					

Standing like that those trophies remind me of a bunch of plastic army guys from my childhood. Very nice collection. Congratulations  Great tip. I'll have to start doing that. Thanks Terry.




					www.homemodelenginemachinist.com
				




Terry


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## SmithDoor (Jul 4, 2020)

I did nickel plating when was 10  it was simple. It came package of chemical a nickel wire with battery w/coper wire.
The instructions said do not put copper in the electrolyte that was connected to nickel wire or plating will be dark.

I put some documents  collect on plating in downloads later.

Dave

PS:
If looking for simple and safe ways to plate look for kids projects.

The easy safe two plates metals nickel and copper on to steel.
Zinc is next on list for Plating


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## terryd (Jul 5, 2020)

doc1955 said:


> I did my brass zoomyie tubes that I have for my Little Demon engines and they came out really nice. The most important thing is make sure they are really clean. I put mine in the solution that I made and it only took a minute or so.  I did do videos showing it stop by and take a look.


Hi,

Searched your channel but couldn't find your plating video and don't have time to watch a whole series so a link would be welcome.

Regards

TerryD


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## doc1955 (Jul 5, 2020)

Here is the first of 2 videos. If you do a search in youtube of nickelplate doc0455 it should have come up.

nickelplate


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## SmithDoor (Jul 5, 2020)

*I uploaded my files to the Downloads


			https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/electroplating-copper-nickel-zinc.32304/
		


Dave*


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## tim9lives (Jul 6, 2020)

There’s a few YouTube videos of Nickel Plating which oversimplified the process. I must have read articles for a full 3 weeks because I had the same problem you described. The coating turned black.
Finally after a decent bit of investigation I came to the conclusion that the Watts Nickel Solution is what works. I plated a few parallels which I used in my mill vise. Mind you,My main motivation for the nickel plating was and is to prevent rust on some of my workshop tools. I must admit, I’m not a model builder.
  Long story short... The Watts Nickel Process has held up remarkably well. I did this nickel plating about 3 months ago and use these parallels daily. They are just cheap shop parallels I made out of cold rolled steel bar.
  Give me a day or so, and I’ll look for my notes and post those plus I’ll post a couple of pictures of the parallels.
All of that said, nickel plating isn’t hard but there are some rules which must be followed in my opinion. Break those rules and you do get that black smut.
  On a side note....Zinc Plating is a whole lot easier.
******
Here’s one of my notes I copied from a forum. Also, you should use distilled water.



I would suggest a bath comprising 300 g/l nickel sulphate, 30 g/l nickel chloride, 40 g/l boric acid. Operate at pH = 3.8-4.2 at about 50 °C. Cathodic current density about 40 ASF, anodic cd about 50 ASF. This is known as a Watts nickel bath.

Add about 0.5 g/l sodium saccharin to harden and brighten it. If you want to be really clever, add about 10 g/l c

Cobalt sulphate and this will also brighten and harden it.

by the way....the nickel plating will mimic the surface it’s plating. So if the surface isn’t polished shiny before you start....it’s not going to be shiny after plating. And the below attachment of my parallels shows just that. I didn’t shine or polish those parallels before plating. I did do an alkaline dip before plating and that’s a whole additional process. Plus...wear gloves. And you must get that water break on the part when you spray them with distilled water to test if the part is totally clean. 

*


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## tim9lives (Jul 6, 2020)

https://www.nickelinstitute.org/media/2323/nph_141015.pdf
		

From page 13 and 14 of above PDF........

CHEMISTRY OF NICKEL ELECTROPLATING SOLUTIONS
The Watts Nickel Plating Solution
The majority of nickel plating solutions, particularly those used for decorative plating, are based on the ‘Watts’ formulation developed by Professor Oliver P. Watts in 1916. The Watts electrolyte combines nickel sulphate, nickel chloride and boric acid. While the proportions may vary according to the application, a typical formulation together with operating parameters is given in Table 2.
 Table 2
Typical formula and operating conditions for Watts nickel electroplating solutions
Function of Ingredients
Nickel Sulphate (NiSO4.6 H2O) Nickel Chloride (NiCl2.6 H2O) Boric Acid (H3BO3) Temperature
pH
Cathode Current Density
Deposition Rate
240-300gL-1
30-90g L-1
30-45g L-1
40-60°C
3.5 - 4.5
2-7A dm-2
25-85μm h-1
       The nickel sulphate is the primary source of nickel ions (Ni++) with nickel chloride a contributing source. Nickel chloride has two major functions – it appreciably increases solution conductivity thereby reducing voltage requirements and it is important in obtaining satisfactory dissolution of nickel anodes.
Boric acid is a buffer and has the major function of controlling the pH of the solution. As discussed in the previous section, due to the cathode efficiency being less than 100% there is a tendency for the pH to increase as some hydrogen ions (H+) are discharged to liberate hydrogen gas. Regular additions of sulphuric acid are therefore required to adjust the pH. Boric acid limits the effect on the pH resulting from the discharge of hydrogen ions, thereby, simplifying pH control. The mechanism by which boric acid operates is complex, but it is generally understood that it exists in solution as a mixture of borate ions and non-ionised boric acid. When hydrogen is discharged some boric acid will ionise to replace the hydrogen
ions lost and so the pH change is limited. At the same time, borate ions form. When acid is added to adjust the pH, these borate ions combine with hydrogen ions to reform boric acid. Boric acid is therefore only lost through dragout or other solution losses.
The Role of Addition Agents
Watts nickel plating solutions are commonly used for functional applications as will be discussed in a later section. Deposits from Watts solutions without additives are soft and ductile but dull in appearance. The appearance and properties can however be dramatically changed by the use of addition agents. The addition agents consist of organic and certain metallic compounds selected to brighten and level the deposits. As will be discussed further in the section on decorative plating, addition agents may be used to produce semi-bright, bright or satin nickel coatings.
Bright Nickel Plating
In bright nickel plating, four main classes of addition agents are used:
‘Carriers’
(Confusingly these are sometimes also referred to as Brighteners of the First Class, Secondary Brighteners or Control Agents)
These are usually aromatic organic compounds containing sulphur. Examples are benzene sulphonic acid, 1,3,6-naphthalene sulphonic acid (sodium salt), p-toluene sulphonamide, saccharin and allyl sulphonic acid. The major function of carriers is to refine the grain structure and to provide some increased lustre compared with additive-free solutions. Many carriers, for example saccharin, also have significant stress reducing properties. Carriers introduce sulphur into the deposit and the effect of this incorporated sulphur is discussed under decorative plating. Consumption of carriers is largely by dragout as they are not consumed rapidly by electrolysis.
‘Brighteners’
(Also referred to as Brighteners of the Second Class, Primary Brighteners, Levelling Agents)
In combination with carriers, brighteners produce brilliant deposits with good ductility and levelling properties over a broad current density range. There are a wide range of brighteners used (generally supplied as proprietary mixtures). Compounds include formaldehyde chloral hydrate, o-sulpho benzaldehyde, allyl sulphonic acid, 2-butyne-1, 4-diol, thiourea, coumarin and many others. Brighteners are generally present in very low concentrations and are consumed by electrolysis. They therefore need to be replenished on a regular basis in order to maintain the desired brightness.


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## Master (Jul 10, 2020)

Thanks for all the inputs on nickel plating.  I gave up and went with the brass.  This is the Edwards Radial 5.  Plumbing bending was a new experience.


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## SmithDoor (Jul 11, 2020)

There are two problems
1) if use tap water can change the color
2) plastic tanks.
Use ironing water / distilled water
Use glass jars

Dave



Master said:


> Thanks for all the inputs on nickel plating.  I gave up and went with the brass.  This is the Edwards Radial 5.  Plumbing bending was a new experience.


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## tim9lives (Jul 12, 2020)

Yeah Master. The YouTube videos act like it’s easy. Most of them, are coating a copper penny. Copper seems to take the nickel plating much better. The problem is that steel and iron are very difficult to plate with copper using most chemicals we can get. Almost every article I’ve read mentioned using a cyanide copper strike formula. I don’t even want to mess with cyanide.
   That said, I gave up many times over the last number of years. Zinc is an easy plating project using just vinegar and epsom salt. It’s easy.
But, as far as nickel goes....the only successful attempt I’ve ever had was using what’s called the Watts Nickel Formula when plating steel. I haven’t tried plating cast iron yet. That’s because I haven’t scaled up yet. I’m planning on scaling up and doing some larger items soon. My main motivation is rust prevention and that’s why I tried the plating of cheap parallels. The parallels have been holding up great.

also...when plating it’s absolutely necessary to have everything totally clean. Must wear gloves and wash all traces of oil off the workpiece. I first washed the parallels with Bar Keepers Friend. Then electrocleaned in an alkaline bath. Then a 10 second dip in a diluted muriatic acid dip. The acid dip was a diluted acid. Like one part acid and two parts water.
And it’s highly recommended to use distilled water. But I did use filtered tap water because the pandemic just hit and there wasn’t any water in the stores. After all of that... I checked the parts with a spray bottle filled with water to see if I had a good water break. That means no water is beading on the part. 
And then to the Watts plating.


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## doc1955 (Jul 12, 2020)

tim9lives said:


> Yeah Master. The YouTube videos act like it’s easy. Most of them, are coating a copper penny. Copper seems to take the nickel plating much better. The problem is that steel and iron are very difficult to plate with copper using most chemicals we can get. Almost every article I’ve read mentioned using a cyanide copper strike formula. I don’t even want to mess with cyanide.
> That said, I gave up many times over the last number of years. Zinc is an easy plating project using just vinegar and epsom salt. It’s easy.
> But, as far as nickel goes....the only successful attempt I’ve ever had was using what’s called the Watts Nickel Formula when plating steel. I haven’t tried plating cast iron yet. That’s because I haven’t scaled up yet. I’m planning on scaling up and doing some larger items soon. My main motivation is rust prevention and that’s why I tried the plating of cheap parallels. The parallels have been holding up great.
> 
> ...


When I did my brass pipes I made for my v-8 it seemed to taake very well. I think the secret is clean and buff the brass to a high shine plus use a good de-greaser. I use the stuff Wal-mart sells. Its an orange base de-greaser. Also I used a vinegar bass solution not acid.  And the same goes for copper plating. Some materials that will not take nickel you need to copper plate first brass is not one that needs to be copper plated. Anyway like I said I do have a video of brass zoomie pipes being plated. They turned out looking like chrome when finished.


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## tim9lives (Jul 12, 2020)

doc1955 said:


> When I did my brass pipes I made for my v-8 it seemed to taake very well. I think the secret is clean and buff the brass to a high shine plus use a good de-greaser. I use the stuff Wal-mart sells. Its an orange base de-greaser. Also I used a vinegar bass solution not acid.  And the same goes for copper plating. Some materials that will not take nickel you need to copper plate first brass is not one that needs to be copper plated. Anyway like I said I do have a video of brass zoomie pipes being plated. They turned out looking like chrome when finished.


Yeah Doc. All copper based metals take nickel very nicely. Brass is mostly copper so it will accept a nickel electroplating very easy. And is just like a lot of those YouTube videos. And...vinegar is 5% acetic acid. It works but it’s a slower process. When plating brass or copper it’s fine.  But steel and iron need a more aggressive acid in order to pickle the metal in my opinion. Vinegar will work but it’s slower. But with brass and copper you just don’t need a lot of etch on the metals 
  And the problem is that it’s very, very hard to plate steel or iron with a copper strike. All of the commercial platers use a cyanide copper strike.
At least that’s my take from what I’ve read. I tried many different formulas, trying to copper plate steel. I ended up with a dull copper base which was covered with a black soot. And this was using a regulated power supply and following all the voltage and amp plating rules.
  But, if you’re trying to plate any copper based metal then there’s a number of simple formulas out there which will suffice.

and yes...distilled water is always much much better. I finally purchased 6 gallons for my next attempt at this electroplating


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## SmithDoor (Jul 12, 2020)

If you ever go in commercial plating company you see at less 7 tanks for plating zinc.
This to get nice bright zinc color. Takes very short time .

But a commercial hard chrome uses just one tank.
The part is first machined or ground then clean with break cleaner next in to plating. The part after a day comes out tank a dill sliver color.
For a bright chrome needs to polished.

Dave


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## a41capt (Jul 12, 2020)

I have a decent luck using the Caswell plating copper as a base on steel.  On pitted steel gun receivers, I’ve built a copper base and draw filed to a flat finish. The copper fills the pitting nicely, and then a plate of nickel to cover, and a beautiful reconditioned firearm.

I haven’t tried the acetic acid method from YouTube, I should give it a go to see how it works.  I’m out of other chemicals so it’d sure be a cheaper option!


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## doc1955 (Jul 12, 2020)

SmithDoor said:


> If you ever go in commercial plating company you see at less 7 tanks for plating zinc.
> This to get nice bright zinc color. Takes very short time .
> 
> But a commercial hard chrome uses just one tank.
> ...


Ok I went out to the shop and plated a piece of brass tube. I used the solution I made with vinegar and 2 pieces of pure nickel and a usb charger, So here is a short video of me trying to show how I have done it with excellent results.


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## SmithDoor (Jul 12, 2020)

Looks great
Thank you 
Dave



doc1955 said:


> Ok I went out to the shop and plated a piece of brass tube. I used the solution I made with vinegar and 2 pieces of pure nickel and a usb charger, So here is a short video of me trying to show how I have done it with excellent results.


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## awake (Jul 13, 2020)

Doc, that was a nice demo of the difference you get between a polished base and an unpolished one. Thanks!


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## SmithDoor (Jul 14, 2020)

This may help

Dave



Master said:


> Tried my hand at nickel plating.  May have left item in solution too long.  It turned black.  The black does polish off, but the result is an odd silver/yellow color.


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## tim9lives (Jul 15, 2020)

From what I’ve read....and mind you I’m certainly not an expert, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn.
Anyway, the problem with most Chrome Electroplating is  hexavalent chromium compounds are toxic. Like real toxic and also very highly regulated now. Electroless Chrome is a totally different animal.
But, for electro chrome plating steel they first plate with copper ( and that’s a cyanide process) .... theand then nickel plate and from there into the chrome tank. There is some newer tech using trivalent chrome which isn’t as bad for you. But the hexavalent chrome is super bad fumes. Heavy metal toxins. Plus , on the corrosive spectrum...it’s also up there with fuming muriatic acid. It’s a highly corrosive process in that everything in the shop corrodes.
But, plating copper based metals are much easier. Maybe I’m wrong Doc, but I’m guessing that if you go back into your shop and try to plate a steel bar using vinegar....it ain’t going to be easy. By the way....zinc plated nails and hardware isn’t the same as cold rolled steel. Nickel over zinc works a little easier than nickel over steel.

oh...the other thing about plating metals is the professionals don’t really share their secrets. Reading lots of posts on finishing.com even points out so much is proprietary info. But, watts nickel is well documented.


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## doc1955 (Jul 15, 2020)

tim9lives said:


> From what I’ve read....and mind you I’m certainly not an expert, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn.
> Anyway, the problem with most Chrome Electroplating is  hexavalent chromium compounds are toxic. Like real toxic and also very highly regulated now. Electroless Chrome is a totally different animal.
> But, for electro chrome plating steel they first plate with copper ( and that’s a cyanide process) and then nickel plate and from there into the chrome tank. There is some newer tech using trivalent chrome which isn’t as bad for you. But the hexavalent chrome is super bad fumes. Heavy metal toxins. Plus , on the corrosive spectrum...it’s also up there with fuming muriatic acid. It’s a highly corrosive process in that everything in the shop corrodes.
> But, plating copper based metals are much easier. Maybe I’m wrong Doc, but I’m guessing that if you go back into your shop and try to plate a steel bar using vinegar....it ain’t going to be easy. By the way....zinc plated nails and hardware isn’t the same as cold rolled steel. Nickel over zinc works a little easier than nickel over steel.


Nickel plating is not the same as chrome plating. Chrome plating is a lot harder in both respects as doing and outcome.
  And the process I do and have had very good results is not done with any toxic acid unless you consider the acid in vinegar toxic. It is a simple straight forward process for nickel plating whether for a chrome look or to just stop oxidation. The main thing is to have parts that are to be plated clean. If you want a chrome look you need to start with well polished parts or material. Nickel plating will not cover scratches or surface imperfections  
   If you watch the video I posted you will see that it is a simple process to go from copper or brass to a chrome look in a very short time with no harsh chemicals.


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## smartmicrons (Oct 1, 2021)

Nickel plating offers a one-of-a-kind mix of corrosion protection and wears resistance. In addition, it can add radiance, shine, and attractiveness. Nickel is frequently used as an “undercoat” for other coatings, such as chromium because it has excellent adhesive capabilities for subsequent coating layers.

*Electroplating with nickel*
Electroplating, also known as surface treatment, is the process of depositing a thin layer of metal or metal alloy to a surface. The goal is to increase the longevity, aesthetics, and performance of the products being plated by changing the technical or physical attributes of the surface, such as electrical conductivity.

Nickel electroplating technology has advanced significantly over the last 50 years, allowing for the efficient production of a wide range of industrial coatings for both ornamental and functional uses. Electroplated nickel is an economically important material, with upwards of 150,000 tonnes deposited each year worldwide.

More information at Smart Microns









						Nickel Electroplating- What are some common applications of Nickel Electroplating
					

Nickel Electroplating: Nickel plating offers a one-of-a-kind mix of corrosion protection and wears resistance.




					www.smartmicrons.com


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## SmithDoor (Oct 1, 2021)

What I found is pro's of Nickel plating
1) Lower cost
2) easy to in a home shop over chromium.
3) can used for low cost hard plating.  Be for chrome plating was lower cost Nickel was used.

The cons is
1) Not as hard as chrome plating.
2) color is not same as chrome plating. 

Most chrome shops start with flash copper plate then nickel plate. Then plate with chrome.
Hard chrome plating only uses chrome.

Back 1960's at toy stores they sold nickel plating kit.
I would give that to a 10 year old.

If look at home look at copper plating copper wire and root kill found at plumbing stores.

Dave





smartmicrons said:


> Nickel plating offers a one-of-a-kind mix of corrosion protection and wears resistance. In addition, it can add radiance, shine, and attractiveness. Nickel is frequently used as an “undercoat” for other coatings, such as chromium because it has excellent adhesive capabilities for subsequent coating layers.
> 
> *Electroplating with nickel*
> Electroplating, also known as surface treatment, is the process of depositing a thin layer of metal or metal alloy to a surface. The goal is to increase the longevity, aesthetics, and performance of the products being plated by changing the technical or physical attributes of the surface, such as electrical conductivity.
> ...


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## a41capt (Oct 2, 2021)

After restoring the mechanical aspects and lining bores, I have successfully restored several old and pitted revolvers by first using several layers of plated copper and draw filing until all defects are filled. I usually take the time to then engrave with a  “bright cut” to the copper and base steel, and do one more light copper plate to fill the engraving.  I then buff the copper plate until absolutely shiny, degrease, and then into the home-brew nickel bath which is VERY easy.  The results are stunning, although far from a chrome finish (nickel has a slightly yellowish tint), they are period correct for an antique nickel plated firearm, and restoration to shootable and presentable is a great thing!

John W


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## Richard Carlstedt (Oct 2, 2021)

Well, I didn't read all the references in this thread, and I coordinated all the Nickel plating in our die shop
We did Electroless nickel only ( called EN) on our Dies and I would like to add a few comments.

First comment.    You will always get smut with Aluminum .. you need a special pre-treatment for. Aluminum.

Second comment.   Do not mix the solutions- a no no for getting good results  , if you do steel, ONLY use that solution for steel. Mixing parts in the same bath is a great way to have failure , as you are working with metal Ions and you get cross-contamination. this is especially true if you use the bath for Aluminum.

Third.  remember, ALL Chemical reactions are affected by temperature and generally the hotter the better BUT not all times. For instance, Electroless Nickel needs 192 F  -closely controlled

Last.   Use only Distilled or De_Ionized water and the part needs to be meticulous clean and rinse it in distilled water before plating

Rich


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## SmithDoor (Oct 2, 2021)

How mix and use your home-brew nickel plating?

Dave



a41capt said:


> After restoring the mechanical aspects and lining bores, I have successfully restored several old and pitted revolvers by first using several layers of plated copper and draw filing until all defects are filled. I usually take the time to then engrave with a  “bright cut” to the copper and base steel, and do one more light copper plate to fill the engraving.  I then buff the copper plate until absolutely shiny, degrease, and then into the home-brew nickel bath which is VERY easy.  The results are stunning, although far from a chrome finish (nickel has a slightly yellowish tint), they are period correct for an antique nickel plated firearm, and restoration to shootable and presentable is a great thing!
> 
> John W


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## Richard Carlstedt (Oct 2, 2021)

A few other comments
Thickness of Nickel
Usually anything under .0005" is called a Flash coat
Its good for decoration  - or rust prevention if over  .0004"
.001" is needed for a working surface ( exposed to abrasion)
and .0015" for heavy work surfaces ---heavier is a waste of nickel 

Immediately after plating , do a post heat treatment for superior plating adhesion 
For steel, we did 600 F for two hours
For Aluminum we did 260 F for 8 hours. This drives off any Hydrogen !

Last we used Razor blades - bought thousands of them (old style) because the thickness was Extremely uniform and never varied.  Clean the blade ( spotless ! )  and placed it in bath at the same time as work.. wait either 5 or ten minutes and then remove the blade and measure it's thickness. The plating thickness will be double as its on both sides. Use the time and thickness you got to project how long to leave the part in ---you will need a tenth Micrometer .. So if you measure the blade after 10 minutes and it is +.0003", you know you are plating at  1-1/2 Tenths in 10 minutes on a surface and you need 40 minutes to do a .0006" plate
Rich


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## a41capt (Oct 2, 2021)

SmithDoor said:


> How mix and use your home-brew nickel plating?
> 
> Dave


400 grams of copper sulfate to 1 liter of warm water in a suitably sized glass container. Stir with a glass rod to dissolve the copper sulfate, utilize a piece of copper as tall as the container plus enough to extend past the top as the anode or positive charged lead (even a cleaned section of copper tubing or pipe), clean the buffed floor steel part to be plated with cleanser paste and rinsing under running water while wearing latex/nitrile gloves (no fingerprints please!), attach a negative charged lead to the steel part to be plated, submerge in the solution, and run the voltage at 3 to 6 volts dc.  Rotate and gently agitate the part until the desired amount of copper has been deposited.  I usually remove and rinse the part to inspect and ensure I’m building enough to fill any pitting, draw file down to bare steel again, and repeat the process until all pits are filled.  That’s when I engrave and add one final layer of copper, lightly buffing before going to the nickel bath.

The Nickel bath (nickel acetate) is prepared using white vinegar, a small amount of table salt, and two pure nickel bars (bought off eBay) as the anode and cathode.  Plating follows the same basic procedure as the one for copper including the degreasing/cleaning, and I always inspect for uniformity (visual) and apply more layers as needed lightly buffing and degreasing between baths until I reach the color/sharpness of engraving desired.

All these methods are clearly illustrated on YouTube, that’s where I learned the home brew plating methods I utilize.

John W


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## awake (Oct 4, 2021)

I followed Doc1955's videos (mentioned above) - very easy and got excellent results.


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## smartmicrons (Nov 10, 2021)

When many firms consider electroplating, they consider methods including covering a metal part with another metal material like gold, nickel, copper or silver. Notwithstanding, it is likewise conceivable to plate non-metallic materials to advance electrical conductivity, further develop corrosion protection or improve the overall appearance of the completed part. Plastic is quite possibly the most well-known non-metallic substance that can take advantage of electroplating, including famous plastic gums, for example, polycarbonate, polyethersulfone, Teflon and diallyl phthalate. Here, we discuss some of the major preparation considerations before plastic plating. Home - Smart Microns


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