# Setting up a VFD?



## lazylathe (Mar 29, 2012)

My Teco VFD is home and i am reading the manual.
The model # is JNEV-101-H1
http://www.tecowestinghouse.com/PDF/EV_Micro_Drive.pdf
Very confusing to say the least! ???

I get the power in and power out and the simple stuff.

Do i need to have a fuse/breaker before the power goes to the VFD?
Does the VFD have to go in a NEMA enclosure? VFD solutions, the place i bought it from said it did not need to.

I am just looking at a simple install, nothing fancy with brakes and potentiometers etc...

This is the manual:
http://www.tecowestinghouse.com/Manuals/ev_operating_manual.pdf

Not sure what Sink or Source are and if i need to use them??

Any help would be great!!
You can tell i am not really electrically inclined!!! :big:

Andrew


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## JorgensenSteam (Mar 29, 2012)

The inverter cat. no. you list is a 120 volt input, 17.9 amps input at 120 volts, 1-phase.

Output is 4.2 amps, 3-phase, 230 volts, with a maximum motor size of 1 hp, 3-phase.

I assume you are trying to run a 3-phase motor from 120 volts?

The chart says 20 amperes for a fuse, but code requires at least 1.25% on any device, so a 25 amp or probably a standard 30 amp breaker for the input, with #10 wire on the input. Use a #10 ground wire on the input.

The drive protects the motor, and so you do not need overcurrent protection (a fuse or circuit breaker) on the secondary (3-phase motor side) of the drive.

If you are not trying to power a 3-phase, 240 volt motor from 120 volts, then you got the wrong drive.

Somebody else will have to guide you on control wiring, but that should not be difficult, just find someone who has a similar drive and copy their control arrangement. Looks like the controls can be as complex or as simple as you want.

Good luck.


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## doc1955 (Mar 29, 2012)

You may want to check your line voltage I know I had to add a voltage regulator to tame down my line in voltage it was running from over 138 to 105 voltage. And I see from the manual it calls for 115 volt +10% -15% .


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## lazylathe (Mar 29, 2012)

It is to run a 3 phase 220V motor, sorry I forgot to mention that.

I will also check the line voltage.
Never thought to check that...

Will update again tomorrow.

Thanks for the help!

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Mar 29, 2012)

Ok first of all what are you doing with this drive? How do you want to control it with a variable pot or with an analog input? What size motor do you have? What power input capability do you have, single phase or three phase because it has both options. What kind of output do you require beside controlling the motor this drive give you choices? Do you have a brake and is it DC rated? Will you be using a start stop switch or just an on off switch or are you controlling it with aux equipment? You can not use a circuit breaker to start stop this drive.
Sorry to throw all this at you, but this is required this drive is very flexible and may require a Tech unless you totally understand what you will be connecting or you could distroy it.

Best regards Don


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## JorgensenSteam (Mar 29, 2012)

His model number is 120 VAC, 1-phase input, 240 volt, 3-phase output.

There is no 3-phase input option for that model number.

You can run a 220 volt, 3-phase motor off of 240 volts.


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## Don1966 (Mar 29, 2012)

You will need to get the info off the drive input-output and make sure the motor has the same input as the drives output and power also matches. The horsepower must match the drive. The drive is able to run the motor as is. It has a start stop and a speed adjustment. It also has parameters to adjust the frequency to 50/60 HZ output. My experience it may be set for that Frequency already. If not it is set for 200 HZ and the parameter will have to be changed. The 200 HZ will only make it go faster with less horsepower. If you want forward and reverse parameters will have to be programmed for it and switches wired to the proper inputs. 
If you just want to start stop it connect your power input single phase to L and N where L is the black wire and N is the white wire, please be sure to ground the drive correctly and also the motor. Connect the motor to T1, T2, and T3. Power up and use your start and stop on the drive and speed dial, please read manual for startup. 
Use the cable size and breaker UNIcasting has replied with, but the breaker must be a ground fault breaker.

Good luck Don


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## Don1966 (Mar 29, 2012)

One thing I forgot to mention if your motor runs the wrong direction just reverse and two of the motor leads.

Don


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## Don1966 (Mar 30, 2012)

Sorry for the multiple replies but I am at work and finally had time to read your manual. The factory default parameter setting has the up and down key pad pushbuttons set to control the speed of your drive. In order to change it to the knob adjustment on the face of the drive parameter F05 will have to be changed from 000 to 001, follow the procedure on page 16 second paragraph It is very easy. Also if you are in north america the frequency is set for 60Hz if not 50hz this is your base frequency,any frequency above that the motor will turn faster then the name plate speed with less HP. In order to have a remote speed adjustment another parameter will have to be changed and also for forward and reverse. Just let me know if you want to use these functions and I will give the proper parameters to change and where to connect.

Regards Don


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## JorgensenSteam (Mar 30, 2012)

I don't think you are going to find a 30 amp, 120 volt, ground fault breaker. The 20 ampere GFI breakers I have purchased are very expensive and very unreliable.

I am not aware of a code requirement for running a motor on a GFCI circuit. I would think that using an equipment grounding conductor in the circuit to the drive and motor, and grounding the VFD and the frame of the motor would be sufficient. Again #10 wire for the hot, neutral and ground.


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## Don1966 (Mar 30, 2012)

A 20amp breaker will do since you have a variable drive the starting current will be low. The code will not give you any problem with it lower only higher. I do not think the 20 amp will give you problems. If you feel you do not want a ground fault breaker do as you wish. Sheet 11 of the manual suggest a ground fault for safety reasons.

Regards Don


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## lazylathe (Mar 30, 2012)

Sorry guys it was late last night and i did not supply all of the info.
I did not think it would be such a procedure to set one up.

Anyway...
I emailed the company the motor specs and the type of machine it would be running, my Clausing mill.
This is the motor:






I am going to be running it from 110V current and have the VFD convert it to the required 220V 3 phase.
The motor is wired up for this configuration already.

The power coming to the unit is on a 20 amp breaker.
I will install another one before it reaches the VFD or should this be the ground fault breaker?

I am going to be using the control panel to run the mill for now.
Other options can always be added at a later date and as i learn about them.

As for braking i do not mind waiting a while for it to slow down.
This is not a production facility! ;D

I will make sure i get #10 wire for the connections.

This is what i was looking at.
The unit is the same as mine only for a bigger motor.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...teco-vfd-install-enclosure-3-ph-motor-226569/

Does not seem to complicated, only have to check the mains line voltage to ensure it is within spec!

Andrew


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## JorgensenSteam (Mar 30, 2012)

Your motor is only 3/4 hp, so I think you could run a 20 ampere, 120 volt input breaker.

As Don mentioed, you will not have the typical 6 times the motor operating current surge that a typical motor has, since you are operating it off of a VDF. Typical breaker sizes for motors started across the line are anywhere from 1.5 to 2.0 or sometimes more of the motor full load amps. This assumes the motor either has a built in overload element, or has a starter with an overload element(s).

I have had so much trouble with 20 ampere, 120 volt GFCI breakers that I hesitate to recommend one. If you do use one, you only need one in the panelboard at the beginning of the circuit. If you already have a 20 ampere 120 volt non-GFCI breaker in your panel, you can just use a 20 ampere GFCI receptacle mounted in a junction box, and plug your drive into that.

If you are using a 20 ampre breaker at the start of the circuit, then the wire for that circuit can be #12 for hot, neutral and ground.

The wiring between the drive and the motor could be smaller than #12, but I always stick with #12 minimum wire size in the shop, since typically I use a roll of wire for multiple applications, and I don't want to be melting wires if I use it for something with a 20 ampre breaker.


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## Noitoen (Mar 30, 2012)

I've installed a fair amount of VFD's and I've never seen one (standard) that supplies a higher voltage than the input. A single phase 200/240 V one will supply three phase 200/240 V maximum or any value in between. A standard motor has a linear voltage/frequency curve related to the designed voltage/frequency. That's why on a 50/60Hz motor you see 380/440V 1hp/1.2hp 2980/3580 RPM.

When you program a VFD you have to mention the motor's voltage/frequency relation and on a 220V/50hz motor, if you measure the voltage on the motor's terminals with r RMS volt meter when the motor is running at 25Hz you will measure 110V.


(back later)


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## Don1966 (Mar 30, 2012)

I agree with UNIcasting make sure your ground fault breaker is mounted inside the breaker panel if you decide to use it. When you are ready to add morw to the unit let us know my profile has my PM address. Once you play with the program parameters on page 16 it will come to you. Start on page 17 table 10.F1 you will see a column that says factory defaults settings on the left most colum you will see a list of F00- F07 parameters and continues on the next pages. Look at the factory default and code parameters and compare them then you you understand what has to be done to make it work like you want to.

Good luck Don


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## lazylathe (Mar 30, 2012)

I do not know if i am comfortable working in the breaker panel...
Would it be okay to install a GFCI receptacle that is powered from a 20 amp breaker directly from the panel?

So it would go:
1- 20 amp breaker in panel
2- GFCI receptacle on direct line from the 20 amp breaker in the panel
3- Not sure if i would still need another fuse of some sort after the GCFI
4- 110V power into VFD and 220V 3 phase out to motor.

I checked the line voltage of the house and it is running at 115V.
This would be within the limits mentioned in the destruction manual.

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Mar 30, 2012)

I repeat my previous post check the output and input rating on the drive name plate make sure it matches the input and output you want. They do my drive that double the input voltage to the output only on small drives the circuit is called a voltage doubler. VFd drives convert AC TO DC then switch it with transistors to produce AC with a freq to HZ ratio for controlling the flux in the motor which in small terms controls the torque and RPM.

Don


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## lazylathe (Mar 30, 2012)

I will take a pic of the name plate and post that soon!

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Mar 30, 2012)

We must have posters on top of each other Andrew. You will not need a fuse and you can connect as you have posted. If you do not fell comfortable connecting please get someone to do it for you, safety is always first. Electricity is not to forgiving. If you do insure power is off and double check to be sure.

Regards Don


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## JorgensenSteam (Mar 30, 2012)

If you do your own wiring, be sure to adhere to standard wiring insulation colors.

Around here (which may or may not apply to where you are), for 120 volts, the black wire is a "hot" wire, ie: it is energized at 120 volts with respect to ground ("hot wire" is a very misleading term, but it is the term that one commonly hears).

The black wire connects to your 120 volt breaker.

The white wire on a 120 volt ciruit is the neutral, and it connects to the neutral bus in your panelboard. If your panelboard is the service entrance to your house, then you should have a neutral bus and a ground bus which are connected together either by a metal bar, or sometimes a screw. For any panel which is not your service entrance panelboard, then the neutral bus and ground bus should never be connected together, as this can be fatal (it causes the return current in the neutral to flow through all the exposed metal in your system, j-boxes, metal panel cases, you, etc).

It is a common but dangerous mistake to use a non-insulate ground bus as a neutral bus in a panelboard that is not a service entrance. Neutral busses should always be insulated from the panelboard metal housing, and neutral and ground wires should never be connected together other than at the service entrance panelboard.

In the case where you connect to either panel type, connect the white wire to the neutral bus.

The green wire is the ground, and it should connect to the ground bus in any type panel, and also should connect to any metal cases such as equipment cases, metal junction boxes, and the metal case of the motor.

Be sure you don't mix wires/colors/hot/neutral/ground.


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## lazylathe (Mar 30, 2012)

Here is a pic of the panel






Andrew


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## Don1966 (Mar 30, 2012)

Great Andrew your information matches. You have green light to connect.

Don


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## Swede (Mar 30, 2012)

Andrew, you've gotten gobs of good information already... this may help clarify a bit more. This is my VFD conversion web pages. It has some circuit diagrams showing one way to do it.

http://www.5bears.com/vfd.htm






Good luck!


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## lazylathe (Mar 30, 2012)

I cannot thank all of you enough for all the info!!
That is why i love this forum!!!
One of the greatest around, IMO!!! :bow:

Since i have to work tomorrow.... 
I will hopefully be able to buy the needed parts on Sunday and cobble it all together!

Maybe a test run during the week!! :big:

Andrew


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## lazylathe (Mar 30, 2012)

Swede  said:
			
		

> Andrew, you've gotten gobs of good information already... this may help clarify a bit more. This is my VFD conversion web pages. It has some circuit diagrams showing one way to do it.
> 
> http://www.5bears.com/vfd.htm
> 
> ...



Thanks Swede!!!
That is awesome!!
More reading material!!! ;D

Andrew


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## Noitoen (Mar 31, 2012)

Swede  said:
			
		

> Andrew, you've gotten gobs of good information already... this may help clarify a bit more. This is my VFD conversion web pages. It has some circuit diagrams showing one way to do it.
> 
> http://www.5bears.com/vfd.htm
> 
> ...





Just have to rename the Set/Reset switches  The NO/NC are in the correct position, just the names are wrong. :big: :big:


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## lazylathe (Apr 1, 2012)

Busy weekend with no time to really do anything in the "Man Cave"...

Did make it to the hardware store and bought some GFCI's and boxes to mount them in.

Now my next question...
Talking with a guy at the hardware store and he had some ideas, did not really like mine!

This is where the mains panel is and the wall against which all my machines are




What i was thinking was taking a line from the panel and running it just below the insulation.
Run the line in conduit and have boxes where i need them for each machine.


They guy at the hardware seemed to think it would be a lot of work and said it would be easier to run the line up to the joists 
and then all the way across and have lines going down to the machines.

I personally like the conduit idea! ;D

I also opened the electrical panel and found this!!!




An open 20 amp breaker!!!
So i will use that to connect the line to!

Any other ideas on how to run the line for the machines??

Andrew


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## f350ca (Apr 1, 2012)

I personally like conduit, have the whole shop wired with it. The pvc stuff is super easy to work with, need a 90 you just buy one and glue it in. If you need to add a plug just cut the conduit and add a box. I ran 220 and 110 circuits through one 1/2 inch tube. 
Make sure you run 12 gauge for the 20 amp circuit.
Greg


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## Don1966 (Apr 1, 2012)

Andrew insure you pick up only 120 volts by using only one leg of this breaker it looks like a double pole breaker. The two legs of this breaker will give you 240 volts. The black wire is used for this and the white connects to the neutral bus that I see behind with white wires on it. Insure that you find the ground bus there should be bare wires already on it. Your breaker can be used, but if you should want another circuit replace with two single breakers, another way is to remove the cross bar connecting the two together then they become two. Running the cable should meet the local codes and conduit will cover this and J boxes, one also for you VFD. Make sure it is large enough to give adaqite space on all sides for cooling itself. Make sure the breaker is off before connecting and verify with a meter that you are connecting to 120vac. Be careful and be safe always check you power on equipment even after you have turned breaker off before touching.

Regards Don


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## Don1966 (Apr 1, 2012)

I just noticed you are in Canada. I am not familiar with Canadian codes nor there power panels, but it is possible that they use two pole breakers for 120vac. You can check this with a meter. 

Good luck Don


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## Swede (Apr 1, 2012)

Noitoen  said:
			
		

> Just have to rename the Set/Reset switches  The NO/NC are in the correct position, just the names are wrong. :big: :big:



 If it makes a difference, the buttons R and S stand for RUN and STOP. This circuit is designed to deliver fused protection to a 240V VFD. Pushing the R button energizes the contactor and thus the VFD. The S button breaks the voltage holding the contactor closed. In addition, the circuit can be tapped for lights, DRO, what have you. Basically, it is a big ON and OFF switch for my mill.


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## lazylathe (Apr 2, 2012)

Thanks Don!!!

I will replace the breaker with two individual 20 amp breakers.
Was wondering what the two pole was all about...

Greg,
My thoughts exactly!
Easy to add more in the future and easy to work with!!

Will be buying supplies during the week and starting the great wire up! ;D
I have a 4 day weekend so should get a fair bit done!

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Apr 2, 2012)

Andrew be careful using this set reset circuit on the VFD turning this on and off while the drive is active can distroyed it. Use it only to turn your drive on and off through the required inputs not here power inputs.

Regards Don


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## lazylathe (Apr 2, 2012)

Don1966  said:
			
		

> Andrew be careful using this set reset circuit on the VFD turning this on and off while the drive is active can distroyed it. Use it only to turn your drive on and off through the required inputs not here power inputs.
> 
> Regards Don



Not quite sure i understand what you mean Don.
Is it a bad idea to use the buttons on the VFD to start and stop the motor?
Is it a better idea to use the remote options for this?

Andrew


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## rhankey (Apr 2, 2012)

Andrew,

Perhaps I missunderstand what you are saying when you will switch to 2 single pole circuit breakers... If you need 220V from your house circuit breaker, which requires 2 hot wires, then you will need a 2 pole circuit breaker like what you show in an earlier picture. If one hot wire of a 220v circuit were to be overloaded, the breaker needs to trip both hot wires. Otherwise you are left with a partially energized circuit and a rather unsafe situation which is a Canadian (and I beleive a US) code violation.

Robin


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## JorgensenSteam (Apr 2, 2012)

If I remember correctly, this VFD had a 120 volt, single-phase input and a 240 volt, 3-phase output to a motor.

If you connect to two 20 ampere circuit breakers, you will have 240 volt input into your drive, and you will fry your drive.

People seem to love to post diagrams that don't apply to a particular situation, but that is rather hazardous.

For 120 volt input, you connect the black wire to one breaker, connect the white wire to the neutral bus, and the green wire to the ground bus.


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## Don1966 (Apr 2, 2012)

Robin only if he uses one side of the circuit breaker. The breaker will trip if he uses one side for the 120v power. Or he can remove the locking bar so only one will trip or replace with two singles to have two independent circuits. Here he is using only one side of the breaker for 120v.

Andrew do not use the set reset for start and stop only use the buttons on the drive, or reprogram the drive for remote start stop then you can use it if you wish. But not needed if you use remote start stop. Only use this circuit to emergency stop you equipment not start and stop. The remote start and stop option of the drive is quiet simple, so keep it simple. Turning the drive on and off external to itself is not a good idea and could cause damage.

Don


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## Don1966 (Apr 2, 2012)

UNIcasting is correct be carefully of using circuits you do not need.

Don


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## lazylathe (Apr 2, 2012)

The VFD runs off 110V.
What was mentioned earlier was to exchange the dual pole breaker for a single pole breaker.
I will just use ONE of the breakers for the install.
The second one would be a spare, just imagine it does not exist yet, it is waiting in the curtains for it's call. ;D

I could also just use the dual one and just use one side but would be more comfortable exchanging it.

Hope i am making more sense now!

Andrew

More replies!
Don, that is what i was talking about! Two single circuits!! Reading my mind! ;D


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## Don1966 (Apr 2, 2012)

Andrew you understand correctly. Just insure you put a meter on the input of the drive before you turn it on and it has 120v. Then put your meter from the ground wire to the black wire on the drive after you turn on the breaker it should read 120v plus or minus a five volts. This is the make sure you are grounded. Also make sure your ground is secured both places the circuit panel and the drive. Leave no wire disconnected on the ground fault receptacle and follow the factory connection diagram or it will not work.

Don


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## rhankey (Apr 2, 2012)

I understand now. I missed the part that this was a 110V single phase to 208V 3 phase VFD. Sorry for adding any confusion.

Back to lurking.

Robin


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## lazylathe (Apr 2, 2012)

rhankey  said:
			
		

> I understand now. I missed the part that this was a 110V single phase to 208V 3 phase VFD. Sorry for adding any confusion.
> 
> Back to lurking.
> 
> Robin



LOL!!!! ;D
No worries mate!
I was confused to start with!!!
Should have it up and running by the weekend!!! :big:

Andrew


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## Swede (Apr 3, 2012)

The circuit I posted was done so to give one an idea on how it can be done. Obviously it (and all internal components) need to be matched or modified to the VFD in question.

The circuit's purpose is to deliver (switch on and off) power to a VFD. Obviously it is not designed to switch the motor on and off. Once the VFD is on, the VFD controls themselves are used to power the motor.


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## Don1966 (Apr 3, 2012)

Swede I undertook what you were trying to do, but less knowledgable people don't, the 240 volt output on the circuit confuses people less knowledgable. Connecting this to a drive for and emergency stop is what it can be used for as is. To make it a start stop requires more auxillary contacts to start stop of the drive, since the drive gives you low voltage to control itself it makes this a lot safer for remote start stop control.

Regards Don


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## Swede (Apr 3, 2012)

I thought one of the original questions was how to provide power to a VFD. Short of plugging a VFD into a power source and unplugging when you are done, or simply leaving it on all the time, this is one way to do it. The contactor also allows auxiliary equipment like lights, coolant pumps, etc, to be powered on and off.

I posted it as additional information, not as a solution to a particular problem. Obviously, components need to be matched, and probably most importantly, whoever engineers and works with higher voltage equipment best understand the systems.

I'll let it go now. FWIW, the pages I linked have a lot of qualifying text and hopefully helpful information for those who seek to work with these devices.

Regards,

Kurt


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## JorgensenSteam (Apr 3, 2012)

Kurt-

It is very good information, but only applies in a general sense to VFD connections, not the particular catalog number mentioned, which was 120V input, and 240 volt, 3-phase output.

My only concern was someone using the diagram literally, which in this case would not be good.

Sharing information is always good, but those who ask for electrical information should realize that as far as power connections, there is only one correct input and output connection for any given catalog number, and the wiring diagrams I have seen on this post and many others do not apply to the particular situation.

Just a bit of a safety issue, not a personal thing, all information is appreciated I am sure by all.


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## Don1966 (Apr 3, 2012)

The same here Swede all information is appreciated. I never like the give information unless I know what I am doing and I will be hesitant to do it if I don't. I take electricity very serious as I was put in the hospital by it when I was younger. If you noticed in my post there are plenty of warnings. People looking for help do not always know what we're are trying to relay to them and I try my best to explain and some times this is not good enough. Our intentions are to help,but we must think things through when it comes to others asking us for help. To me there safety is number one, because I know they do not know what we know and I do not take it for granted that they do. We have to be cautious in that sense. Your efforts were well intended I have no doubt. 

Best Regards Don


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## lazylathe (Apr 3, 2012)

Thanks to EVERYONE'S help here i have successfully wired up the basement!
I now have 5 correctly wired receptacles, 3 of which are GFCI's.
All of them are grounded to the box and the receptacle.
All tested and they trip and reset perfectly!
Checked the voltage in all and it is sitting at 115V.

It was easier to do than i had first thought but i still took every precaution.
Worked out really well.

Next step is to figure out how to mount the VFD and then wire it as per recommendations and the manual!
Hopefully be done on the weekend!

Thanks again for everyones help!!
I will update with the VFD wiring and set up!

Andrew


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## Swede (Apr 4, 2012)

Andrew - nice work! I am sure you will love the functionality when it is finished.

I had a very cheap imported bench drill press that had a whimpy 1P motor... it was typical import quality. I had an extra 3/4 HP VFD stashed away, and I also picked up a surplus 3P motor off eBay for some ridiculous sum, very cheap. That is one of the beauties of 3P power, the motors are everywhere and often inexpensive surplus.

The combination is now a delight to work with. No more pulley swaps, and that motor can drill 1/2" steel with ease, without slowing or stalling.

One thing I was worried about was cooling for both the VFD's and the 3P motors, since a TEFC motor's fan doesn't move much air when the speed is low. Fortunately, at least with the setups I have, none of the components heat appreciably. An external fan to pull air through the motor can be added if needed.

Don, I appreciate the good points made on safety and the requirements for understanding the system in question.


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## lazylathe (Apr 4, 2012)

Okay, next problem...

I connected the 110V input and plugged her in.
As the manual states the display will flash the input voltage, which says 110V and then the display
defaults to the frequency command value of 05.0.
So this is all good.

Then i connect the motor, which has 3 black wires and one ground/earth wire.
Not too sure if the 3 black wires need to go in a specific order or not?
Kind of hard to tell when they are the same colour...

Turning on the VFD again it runs through the same steps above and it flashes on 05.0 as it should.
The next instruction says to test motor without load.
So it does not have the belt on it, just the pulley.

Press the run key and i get an error LVC, which according to the manual is Undervoltage During Operation.
And then the GFCI trips.

The manual says the causes are:
1- Input voltage too low
2- Input voltage varies too widely.

One last thing i did try was to remove the 220V motor leads and push the RUN button on the VFD.
Works without any issues and i can change the frequency.

Do you think there is something wrong with the motor?
This is a pic of the wiring of the motor. It is wired the same as the left hand side.





Any ideas on what i could do to rectify this situation??

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Apr 4, 2012)

Andrew the connect should be 1 and7 to T1, 2 and 8 to T 2, 3 and 9 to T 3, now 4,5 and 6 taped together. Is that what you have?

Don


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## Don1966 (Apr 4, 2012)

I did forget to mention that there are numbers printed on the lead wires they my be hard to see, but they should be there. Did your motor try to start or it just tripped? Did your lights dim some when you turned it on?
Don


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## lazylathe (Apr 4, 2012)

Don, the wires are all connected correctly according to the low voltage set up.
I will try them in the order you mentioned and get back to you.

The motor made a noise the first time and then no more after that.

I will reply in a few minutes with the results!

Thanks!!! ;D
Andrew


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## lazylathe (Apr 4, 2012)

Hi Don,

I identified the wires and connected them as you suggested.
Still the same problem.

It just trips the GFCI, the motor does not have a chance to start.
Lights did not dim.

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Apr 4, 2012)

What I would suggest is to remove the gfi receptacle and try again, but make sure the motor stays grounded. 
The drive is telling you you line voltage is to low are out of range this is why I ask if the lights dim. possible you are seeing this after the receptacle trips

Don


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## lazylathe (Apr 4, 2012)

Hi Don,

I beat you to it!
I tried it in a regular receptacle and it works perfectly! ;D

My only concern is why it trips the GFCI receptacle?
The ones i bought are good for 15Amps-125V with a feed through of 20Amps - 125V

Do you think i need to exchange them for a higher amperage unit?
I do not want to use the mill without any protection for the VFD.

This is the GFCI's that were recommended to me:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/smartlock-gfci-15-amp-with-light-ivory/903699

Thanks for all your continued help!!!!

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Apr 4, 2012)

It is possible the your motor has some leakage current since it trip pretty quick, you can try another to see that maybe this one is defective. Glad you have it running. Is your rotatio correct? If it isn't reverse any two combination of leads going to motor. You would change 1 and 7 with 2 and 5 or any set like that. 

Don


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## lazylathe (Apr 4, 2012)

Rotation is correct as it was set, so that is good.

I do not have another 220V motor.
Would you suggest replacing it to see if it makes a difference?
It does run quite smoothly but does squeak. Could be from 2 years of sitting in an unheated garage.
Maybe a service and lube would sort it out?

Or would a higher rating GFCI make a difference?

The only other option i can think of would be to remove the GFCI and use a fused connector box before the VFD.

Once again thanks for all your help!!
Karma for you!!! ;D

Andrew


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## Don1966 (Apr 4, 2012)

You could test the motor by disconnecting the ground. This is only to test it mind you. Put the motor on a rubber mat or wood bench and retest it with the ground fault receptacle. If it sat for to long without running it probably has moisture build up inside. Running it can help remove it. Another way is to take it apart and put it in a temperature control oven at 300 degrees for one hour. This will remove the moisture. 

Don


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## JorgensenSteam (Apr 4, 2012)

If the 120 volt circuit you are using is fed from a circuit breaker or a fuse, you don't need GFCI protection.

The fuse or circuit breaker in the panel protects the drive, and the drive protects the motor.

GFCI protection is nice to have, but is generally useful only with 120 volt branch wiring, and small motors.

Just be sure you have a good ground path (ie green grouding wire) from the motor metal frame to the ground at the recpetacle you are using, and be sure the ground at your receptacle has a good green grounding conductor that is connected back to the panelboard ground.

Some people fudge on the green ground wire, and either don't use it, or don't connect it right, or don't run it back to the ground bus in the panel.

My Dad use to cut all the ground conductors off inside the junction boxes, since "the ground condutor doesn't do anything anyway".

My Dad was right to a point, the green ground conductor does not carry any current at all......until you have a fault to ground, such as a fault in the motor winding, and then, a solidly connected green ground conductor will save your arse (and allow the breaker to trip, thus clearing the circuit).


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## lazylathe (Apr 5, 2012)

Hi UNI,

I am thinking of removing the GFCI's and replacing with regular receptacles.
If the one trips, they all trip.

The circuit is fed from a 20 amp breaker.
The ground wire is securely connected to the panel along with all the grounds for the house.
It is then fed to each receptacle and connected to the green screw on the back of the box
and that in turn is connected to the receptacle.
So i think it is ground well.

The receptacle i was testing it with last night did not have a GFCI on it, only connected to a 
20 amp breaker in the panel and it worked perfectly.

Do you think the way it is set up now is okay?
20 amp breaker to grounded receptacle to VFD.

Or should i put an extra 20 amp fuse just before power enters the VFD?

Thanks,

Andrew

PS- Karma for you too!!!


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## lazylathe (Apr 6, 2012)

Just a update.... ;D

I removed the GFCI's and replaced them with regular receptacles.
Had it up and running last night!
First job was to mill some slots in a bit of angle iron so that the VFD can be attached to the motor mount.
Milling went very nicely!!!
A lot faster and smoother than the Sieg, so i am happy!

I have just done a precursory setup and everything is kind of square...
Perfect for milling some loose slots for bolts!

I am going to install a breaker box before the VFD so that i can turn it on and off.
If it is plugged directly into the receptacle i have to unplug it every time.

Once it is done and in it's final resting place i will upload some pics!!!

Thanks to everyone for their help and input!
It was much appreciated!!!

Andrew


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## rhankey (Apr 6, 2012)

Andrew, Does your VFD use magnetic switches to turn on the motor? If not, rather than installing a breaker between the panel and the VFD, a magnetic switch might be a much wiser choice. That way should you have a power outage while using the machine and forget to turn the VFD off, you don't have the machine randomly coming back to life at the end of the power failure while you aren't there, or worse while you have your hand on the spindle.

Robin


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## JorgensenSteam (Apr 6, 2012)

Andrew-

The circuit breaker in your panelboard is all you need for protection of the circuit.

If you want to add a device for disconnecting the drive, you can always use a 20 amp or 30 amp, single-pole light switch in a junction box.
The switch only opens the black "hot" wire, which is the wire connected to the breaker in the panelboard. The neutral wire is never switched.

Just be sure the drive is not operating when you open the switch.

A breaker would work just as the switch would, but would cost more.

Good luck.


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## Don1966 (Apr 6, 2012)

Andrew I agree with UNIcasting you do not need any thing fancy. A simple switch will do like he said make sure you don't turn it off while the drive is running. 

Don


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