# Trout's Twin



## Troutsqueezer (Feb 4, 2010)

Hi Guys,

It occurred to me that I have bits and pieces of this build spread all around this forum and it might be a good idea to bring them all together to form some sort of cohesive build thread, albeit not a very thorough one but better than nothing. At first I didn't think it would be too interesting for others as basically I'm following Metal Butcher's build of the same engine but with some slight variations. I've decided it's easier to ask questions if I have a single thread going on the build. 

I have deleted the pic that was in this spot and moved it further down into the series of pics which I will be uploading shortly. 

I should mention that this engine is Elmer's #44 Open Column Twin.

-Trout


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## kendo (Feb 4, 2010)

Hi
   What a great piece of work,she looks beautiful fella.can't wait to see the rest
   when your done. This one post i will be keeping my eye on 

                      Ken


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## zeeprogrammer (Feb 4, 2010)

Very nice looking Trout. I'm interested in seeing more too.


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## SAM in LA (Feb 4, 2010)

Looks great.

I like the look of the brass acorn nuts.

I haven't seen any of those in a long time.

SAM


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 4, 2010)

Hi Trout. What a surprise! 

You've made some serious progress on your build. :bow:

I look forward to your future progress reports. 

In all my excitement I forgot to say "It looks great!"

Wish I had your patients to polish things up the way that you did.

Keep up the good work.

-MB


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## 4156df (Feb 4, 2010)

Hey Trout,
It's looking good. 
Dennis


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## cfellows (Feb 4, 2010)

That's a beauty, Trout. I really like the finish.

Chuck


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## ironman (Feb 4, 2010)

Very impressive work Trout. Looks flashy already. Lots of pics OK? ironman


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 10, 2010)

So this is what I started with and as you can see had a few parts made already before I started shooting pics. 







My first stumbling block was how to round the edges of the bearing block. Thanks to the experts here I figured out that by using a bolt and washers I could hand file around the edges of the washer and get the needed effect. 






After filing.






After bling.






Next I started milling and drilling the valve plate.






Fly cutting the block. First time I've ever used a fly cutter. I'm in love with that tool now. I've read on here that fly cutting with the X2 may be problematic. Not so. I even held it in the drill chuck to allow for slippage if needed to save the mill gears if it jammed. 






This is the pic I've shown before with the block ready for processing and the crankshaft assembly and frame blinged out. 






Drilling and boring the block. I used my new boring head which worked like a charm. I'm starting to feel like a real rookie machinist now. For the small 1/16 port vents on the bores I used a cut-off drill bit as an end mill by flattening the end and then I pushed it up into the drill chuck almost all the way with only enough sticking out to make the 1/16 depth cut. I took it very slow but it worked like a charm. I should buy a 1/16 end mill some day but this certainly was cost effective. 






This is where I'm at now. The block has been blung and I'm ready to make some round things now. I haven't used my lathe much on this project yet except for the crankshaft. So this week I will make the pistons, after I lap the cylinders.






-Trout


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 10, 2010)

WOW! Things are starting to come together really nice.
I like your approach of building from the ground up, and finishing the parts as you go along.

Super! :bow:

-MB


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## bearcar1 (Feb 10, 2010)

Now really trout, 'blung' ??? Is that really a word or did you just make that up Rof} Rof} Rof}

That certainly is a great looking bunch of blung you got going there. :big: :big:

Seriuosly, terrific looking engine, and the use of a modified drill bit as a milling cutter, novel.
 Thm:


BC1
Jim


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 11, 2010)

Thanks guys. 

I'm not sure why I polish up the parts as soon as I finish them. Mild Obsessive Compulsive Shiny Disorder I suspect. Then there's this thought I have in the back of my head that if this engine decides not to run, at least it's going to look good up there on my shelf. 


"Blinged" just doesn't sound right does it? Turns out there are about 3 different definitions for "blung":

1. When you had bling and you lost it. 
2. Used to describe jewelery that is quite fake.
3. Past tense of bling

It follows then that I could have also used the phrase "the bling bling on the block is blung". 

-Trout


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## bearcar1 (Feb 11, 2010)

Or you just returned from a visit to the local dentist "Hi honey, I blung some phizza home for dinner...." I understand, it just sounds humorous to me, of course "bling bling" sounds too "Gangsta" so go figure. You just can't win. ;D That is a great looking piece of work though.


BC1
Jim


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## Bill Mc (Feb 14, 2010)

Hi Troutsqueezer - Great idea about making small milling bits out of drill bits (especially if you have drill bits which are damaged on the ends anyway). I wrote this tip in my little note book. - Thanx - Billmc


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## zeeprogrammer (Feb 14, 2010)

Rof}
Great.
bling blung

I tend to 'finish' as I go along too and have wondered about it...I've seen some threads where people haven't blinged until virtually all the parts have been done. I can understand the reason for it. But I like seeing the blinged/blunged (now I'm confused) part as soon as I as I can. Even though it's meant some parts sit around and get, er, unblinged because of handling.

In any case...that's some nice blinging.


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks guys. 

I started turning the pistons today but didn't have much time left after all the honeydew chores I had to plow through today. When we had a rare heavy snow here in Northern CA. back in December it took out a large number of huge oak tree limbs that I am still sawing up, stacking for firewood and hauling the rest away for burning. Tomorrow may be a better day for some shop time and I'll have another pic to post. 

Yep Zee, I was lapping the cylinder today and merely touched it against a metal part on the lathe and what do you know, there's a scratch! Aw, I knew it would happen because as you pointed out, it always does and actually I'm fully prepared to refinish all the pieces before the engine goes to its display case. I bought all five grades of those metal finish compounds from Lowes (gift certificate) and only use the number one grade (coarsest) this early in the game. Later I will work my way up incrementally to the number 5 finish to get that super high gloss mirror effect. But then, if I'm feeling lazy, I might skip the middle grades and jump straight to number 5 if the finish looks good enough for hobby work. :big:

-T


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 16, 2010)

Greetings fellow Earthlings,

Today, while at work ;D I have been pondering what the logical steps would be to finish up the pistons tonight (or at least one). Here's what I came up with when my brain wandered too far away from my "real" work:

What I have now is a 1" diameter brass rod chucked in the lathe with about one inch turned down so it is a close fit to one of the cylinder bores. That's all I've done so far. I'm thinking it would be in logical order to hollow out the inside of the piston first and drill the small hole for the pin afterward. I'll come back to that however after I ask my main question: Would it work to put a 1/2" end mill in my tailstock and plunge cut the 1/2" blind hole on the lathe? I can track the depth pretty easily as I have a DI on the tailstock. Then maybe I could use a boring tool to cut the 5/8" shelf. Would a two flute work better to allow for chip escape? Or is there a better way entirely?

Assuming I hollowed out the main section first, I'm wondering about the best way to hold the piston to drill the pin hole - before parting which means I would have to re-chuck the piston to part off, or after parting in which case I would have to come up with a way to hold the piston while drilling. Is this a good approach? 

FWIW, I don't have any collets yet (if they are part of the solution for holding the piston) but I'm ordering some 5C's with chuck & square/hex holders end of Feb.  








-Trout


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## mklotz (Feb 16, 2010)

Using an endmill as you suggest to make a flat-bottomed hole on the lathe is perfectly acceptable. I've done it numerous times and it works well. Use a two flute if you have it but it's really not critical.

Bottom the endmill out in the TS chuck. End mills are hard throughout, including the shank. The TS chuck can't get a good grip on a hardened shank and the possibility of slippage exists. 

I would drill the wrist pin (gudgeon) hole first and then part off. Rechucking to part off is no big deal since the sliding surfaces of the piston aren't affected.


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 16, 2010)

I have made quite a few of these Alien parts.

I usually finish the O.D. last. The reason being that on a small piston with a thin skirt, the finished outer diameter on a soft metal piston may magically grow a little oversize. But you may not experience this celestial phenomena if you go very slow with sharp end mills. I normally use four flute center cutting end mills. Afterwards and during the cut-off, I will usually stop at the half way point and back out of the cut-off to break the two sharp corners on the piston with a file or what ever method your accustomed to using. And then I finish up with the parting.

I drill the wrist pin hole in the milling vise, easy does it with the clamping pressure to avoid bloating out the thin skirt. The jaws should clamp on the top and bottom (skirt) of the piston. I zero out the spindle on the 'Y' movement (fixed jaw), shift over and move towards the location, zero out again, this time on the 'X' movement. now I move the spindle to the center of the piston. Drill slightly under size and ream the specified size.

I hope you can understand what I'm saying.

-MB


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 16, 2010)

Sure am glad I asked. Thanks very much guys. Top notch advice as usual and as always, there's more than one way to skin a cat (not that I would ever do that...)

-Trout


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 16, 2010)

Troutsqueezer  said:
			
		

> Sure am glad I asked. Thanks very much guys. Top notch advice as usual and as always, there's more than one way to skin a cat (not that I would ever do that...)
> 
> -Trout



Cat! Them "cats" are good eating. My alien friend "Alf" is a connoisseur.

They have to be fresh though. He's so fussy! :big:

Edit: "Alf" is from a far, far, away planet called "Melmac".

-MB


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 20, 2010)

It's going at a snail's pace but progress is being made, most of it in the brain cells. I know it's taking me a long time when I go to find my build thread and it has fallen several pages back in the que. 

Anyway, I've got the pistons under my belt now. I started by turning a 1" brass rod to .75" and then plunge cutting the blind hole using an end mill in the drill chuck in the lathe. 












Next I cut in the oil grooves, then parted it off, rechucked it in the lathe and cleaned up the ends. 






I drilled the connecting rod pin holes. Found the edge with the edge finder, spot drilled and finished up with a drill. I tested the drill hole size first with a scrap piece of brass to be sure the pin would fit tight without having to ream, since I don't own a 1/8th reamer. 






The fit is pretty good. I need to lap a bit more to get the pistons to slide smoothly. 






Now I'm on to the connecting rods. That might take a week. MB, maybe you can come over and help me. 

-Trout


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 20, 2010)

Hey Trout. You know I would if I could. But I don't think you really need any help. 
And, your just a bit to far for a casual afternoon road trip. Besides, your build is coming along just fine, in your very capable hands!

How many, and how often, is not part of the 'hobby equation". 

Super job Trout.

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Feb 20, 2010)

Those are fine looking pistons Trout.
Very nice.


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 21, 2010)

Appreciate the compliments guys, especially coming from two whose build threads have helped me immensely.

-T


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## Deanofid (Feb 21, 2010)

Nice work on the pistons, Trout. They look just great!

Dean


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## Russel (Feb 21, 2010)

I just found this thread, Wow! Some very nice blingification!


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## kendo (Feb 22, 2010)

Hey Trout
        Nice going fella, it's looking gooood

                      Ken


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## xo18thfa (Feb 22, 2010)

That is a very nice running engine. Yours is turning out great, can't wait to see it under power.


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## Troutsqueezer (Feb 28, 2010)

Thanks Guys. 

Sure enough, it's been a week and I finally finished the connecting rods. That dang American Idol is keeping me from my work shed! ;D

I started by cutting and milling to size two brass bars then drilling two holes in each for a 2-56 tap to hold the caps on. Then I cut off the caps using a slitting saw. Having worked with wood for many years, I'm used to saw blades coming to an abrupt stop when they hit metal so it was interesting to see this slitting blade cut through the brass like butter. 






After the caps were cut off I tapped the holes in the connecting rod and drilled clearance holes in the caps. Then I drilled and reamed the crankshaft hole and the hole for the wrist pin. Next I clamped it into the lathe using a four jaw. 






It starts to take shape. 






The real deal. I still need to remove the circles on the rod diameter. No sharp edges left here, sorry MB and Marv! My next engine will have less bling and more sharp edges. 8)






This evening I assembled the pistons, crankshaft and cylinder and found there to be a few clearances that need tweaking. Hopefully I'll have time to do that tomorrow, then I can bring it into work, rotate the crankshaft and impress the boys. 

On a side note, I'm anticipating some soldering on this model so I fashioned a hearth of sorts. While at Home Depot a few days ago I noticed a damaged piece of Hardi Backer board in the corner. They sold it to me for two bucks. I cut some small pieces from that and placed them into an old well fuse box I had hanging around. We'll see if the rumors are true that Hardi Board works for this. 






I welded some coupons on the bottom to decouple the hearth from the bench even though it has 1/4 inch steel plate for a top. 






-Trout


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## Deanofid (Feb 28, 2010)

It's coming right along, Trout. Nice pics, too, (and I thank you).

The Hardi Backer looks a lot like drywall. It's different stuff, is that right? I'm not really familiar with this stuff, but it appears to have paper backing on it, like gyp board, or drywall. Maybe I'm just being fooled by the color/lighting.



			
				Troutsqueezer  said:
			
		

> The real deal. I still need to remove the circles on the rod diameter. No sharp edges left here, sorry MB and Marv! My next engine will have less bling and more sharp edges. 8)
> a top.
> -Trout



Not sharp edges. Crisp and well defined. We don't want any bloodshed, after all!

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Feb 28, 2010)

Nice job on the rods. Beautiful looking pistons too.

Keep us informed about the hearth. I'm expecting the same needs and would like to learn from your....successes. ;D


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## kendo (Feb 28, 2010)

Hi Trout
       Your doing a great Job, the pistons and rods brilliant fella.
       ( I happen to like bling lol )
              Keep up the great work


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## kustomkb (Feb 28, 2010)

Very nice work, it looks great!

nice photo's too!


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## Troutsqueezer (Mar 12, 2010)

Time to dredge this old thread up from the depths again. One part per week that's my motto. ;D Of course, each part is a learning process for this skeeter-winger. 

So I got the pistons installed into the block, made a few clearance adjustments and now they move smoothly. Next part in the queue was the eccentric. For that I used steel. I turned down a big bolt I bought at the metal surplus store to .75" dia. Then I turned the end down to .5" dia. about 3/8ths in, faced it off, then drilled and reamed to .25". Next I parted off about an inch, flipped it around and chucked it into a four jaw. To offset the cam portion of the eccentric I first centered the piece in the four jaw chuck, then loosened the top and bottom jaw slightly. With the DI set against the back side I moved the back side jaw out and slid the eccentric in the back direction so the offset measured .066", then tightened the jaws carefully. 






The next step was to finish the valve plate. I milled out the slotted ports by drilling three holes for each slot and since I don't yet own end mills in that small size I took the drill bits and pushed them up into the mill chuck leaving just enough sticking out to clear the metal plate thickness. I used these as psuedo end mills, very slowly cranking the table dial. They flexed quite a bit but got the job done. I just ordered the miniature end mill set from LMS. 

The plans call for the rocker pivot to be soldered to the valve plate so this gave me an opportunity to test out my Hardi-Backer hearth (pictured earlier in this thread). I used Harris 45% silver solder (not cheap) and Stay Brite flux. I coated the bottom of the pivot and the corresponding section of the valve plate with flux and then pounded a couple of very short sections of the solder into flat pieces. These were placed in between the pivot and the plate and the pivot was screwed onto the plate with the solder wedged in between. Fired up the MAPP torch and in a few seconds, the solder was flowing. I tightened the screws while the solder was still molten and the two parts came together nicely. The rumors about Hardi-Backer board (backing material for tiling your kitchen or bathroom from Home Depot) turn out to be true. Nothing flew out at me, no cracks, just scorch marks on the surface of the board. 

I still have to bling the plate on the topside. The edges are way too crisp. :big:


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## arnoldb (Mar 12, 2010)

That's looking *very* good Trout Thm:

Regards, Arnold


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 12, 2010)

Hi Trout your engine is coming along well I see. Your working under some tough conditions there buddy, when you have to start cutting up bolts, and end milling with a drill bit! That is easily worth a Karma point!

How come you added a 'second row' of acorn nuts to hold down the 'Table'. :big: :big: :big: :big:

You defiantly "Blunged" er' good!

-MB


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## Troutsqueezer (Mar 12, 2010)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> How come you added a 'second row' of acorn nuts to hold down the 'Table'. :big: :big: :big: :big:
> -MB



Thanks guys. I tried to take some fancy pics first but it didn't work out. First I put the engine on a black pillow but with the mirror finish, all the silver looked black. Then I put it on some purple quilting material my wife had laying around and everything turned purple. I gave up and shot the pic on the kitchen counter. Yup, twice the nuts at half the price, can't beat that....


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## putputman (Mar 12, 2010)

Trout, I like the way you go about building this engine, that is completely finishing each part including the "bling". The first time your engines kick over & run, you are totally done with a beautiful engine ready to present.

I tend to finish the engine to the point where it runs and then have a hard time getting back to the "bling". Sometimes it takes a while to totally finish the job as I am off on a new project.


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## cfellows (Mar 12, 2010)

That's a fine looking piece of work, Trout. I really like the way it's coming together!

Chuck


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## metalmad (Mar 13, 2010)

brilliant work
so bright even I could see lol
love it 
cheers Pete


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## Troutsqueezer (Mar 20, 2010)

It's been a week since my last post so I've managed to finish another part, maybe two. There aren't too many parts left to make for this engine so this puppy could be up and running sooner rather than later. 

I should have taken more pics when I made the eccentric strap since it involved my first real use of my rotary table. But then, the way I had to clamp the piece down was pretty hokey-looking so maybe it's not a bad thing. 

I centered the RT by chucking a 3/16 transfer punch in the mill and placing it against one side of the hole in the RT, I put a DI on the punch to detect any movement. I found one edge of the hole, zeroed the DI and then moved to the table until the DI moved again. I divided that number by two and moved the table the center of the hole in the X direction. Then I did the same for the Y direction. I'm sure there's an easier way to do that but it was all I could think of at the time. Down the road I plan on making something with an MT1 taper to use for this. Once the table was centered I drilled a 3/16 hole into the cross mark on the eccentric strap for the 1/2 inch hole. With the transfer punch still chucked, I slid the eccentric strap onto the punch, lowered the spindle and clamped the brass bar onto the table (over a piece of scrap aluminum). This centered the hole on the eccentric with the RT and mill. From there it was just a matter of spinning the RT to the edges of the scribes. I did much the same thing for the smaller hole at the other end of the eccentric. I opened the larger hole on the eccentric enough to get my boring bar thru it and then bored the hole to the finished 1/2" dimension, taking off .001" at a time as I was getting closer to get a nice close fit. Lastly I milled the straight edges, then a little sand paper. 












Next on the parts list (working my way up the engine) was the slide plate. This was pretty straightforward milling and drilling but I took some photos none-the-less. 






After drilling all the holes I slotted the center section with a 1/8th end mill. 






The finished part. 






I can't stand crisp edges so I had to do something to get rid of them. :big:






I've been thinking of what to mount this engine on when it's finished. Wood bases are a common platform and certainly add a lot to the finished product. I've been doing a little experimenting with a metal base, brass and aluminum that will have some panache which will go with the highly polished look I've striven for here. I will post that next time. 

That's it for now. 

*Yes Honey.....I'll be there in a minute.....*

-Trout


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## Shopguy (Mar 20, 2010)

Beautiful! :bow:
Regards
Ernie J


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 20, 2010)

Naturally we'll expect the same attention to polish and sheen with the base. ;D

Very nice stuff Trout. The polish is extraordinary.


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## Troutsqueezer (Mar 21, 2010)

Thanks guys. 

Here is my engine stand, as promised. I've got a little more polishing to do on it yet but it's lookin' purty.


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## Metal Butcher (Mar 21, 2010)

Beautiful! I just love the base. Very, very creative. :bow:

You need to buff it a bit more! I think I see what looks like a "crisp" corner!!! :big:

I'm just kidding you. ;D

Real nice work Trout.

-MB


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## BigBore (Mar 21, 2010)

Dang Dude!..................................Yeah, that's about all I can say.........................Dang Dude!

Ed


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## SAM in LA (Mar 22, 2010)

Troutsqueezer  said:
			
		

> Thanks guys.
> 
> Here is my engine stand, as promised. I've got a little more polishing to do on it yet but it's lookin' purty.



What a good looking engine. Great job. I like the polish job.

SAM


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## gbritnell (Mar 22, 2010)

Hi Trout,
Very classy looking engine. When I'm building something I debate about buffing. On some engines or tools it really adds to the build like yours. 
gbritnell


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## cfellows (Mar 22, 2010)

Very nice. I really like the base. Greatly adds to the appearance.

Chuck


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## Troutsqueezer (Mar 22, 2010)

I appreciate the nice comments guys, especially since it has been some of your posts that have helped me greatly. 

MB, as I was caressing my engine stand I found that crisp corner as it was about slice into my thumb so I immediately slammed it into the buffing wheel! Now it's just a bad memory....Arghhh..... :big:

gbritnell, I agree. Some engines don't lend themselves to polishing. This one reminded me of an automobile engine and since I used to own a few hot rods, I went into polish and shine mode, an artifact of an obsession I had in my younger years. 

I'm trying to think of a unique exhaust manifold now...so many possibilities. 

A little while ago, firebird had a thread going where he made a steam inlet valve for his engine/boiler project. I'm also thinking of putting that on the intake hole in the block. 

By the time I'm done maybe this engine will give the 20 Grand Duesenberg a run for its money in terms of polish.  

-Trout


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 22, 2010)

Ah...missed the post of the base. Very nice!
Gives me some ideas for other kinds of bases too.


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## Troutsqueezer (Mar 27, 2010)

Nothing glamorous to report this time. Just some run-of -the-mill shiny stuff.

I made the slide pin assembly, maybe should have taken some pics as it was being made but it was pretty unexciting.






These didn't take long but you can see they are massive as compared to the size of my cat Tiger who jumped up on the platform just as I was taking the shot. :big:






The eccentric, slide pin and misc. parts are fastened to the engine block now. I put a coat of gun blue on the steel parts to ward off rust.











Thats it for now. Thanks for lookin'.

-Trout


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## xo18thfa (Mar 27, 2010)

Very nice work. All time spent polishing parts is paying big dividends.


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## kendo (Mar 27, 2010)

Hi Trout
        This build just Keeps getting better, The base loooks fantastic.
        Even the cat tiger looks proud to be in the picture :big:

                Ken


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## Troutsqueezer (Mar 28, 2010)

Thanks a lot for the compliments guys, it helps make burning my fingers on the buffing wheels for an hour at a time worth it.

I'm liking MB's method of grained finish and paint more and more. Thm:

-T


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## Troutsqueezer (Apr 9, 2010)

Greetings once again, fellow Earthlings....

Lo and behold, I've finished up my engine at long last! Here are some final pics to show how I got there. This is some pretty basic stuff but it was mostly all new for me. Did I mention it runs like a champ? woohoo1 

I'm working on the video and should have something to post by the end of the weekend. 

Taking a cue from Metal Butcher's build, I carved out the steam valve before separating it from the larger piece. 






Then I flipped it over and v-e-r-y carefully milled out a .030" cavity. 






Next on the list was the pack nut. A few weeks ago I had no idea what purpose this served. It was easy to make and fun too. 
Started by turning down some hex rod, spot drilled then followed up with a thru hole drill. 






Threaded the end to 1/4-40 then parted off. 






I had to grind off the end of my new 1/4-40 tap so it would thread into the steam chest far enough. A test fit and photo op shows I'm ready for the next step. 






The valve rod was a logical choice for the next part. Starting with a pretty long rod of brass I had to set it up using a live center on the lathe. First I turned it down to the diameter required for threading the valve nut. 






Then I turned the end down to the diameter needed to allow the die to pass over and to match the hole in the far end of the steam chest.






Threaded the rod for the valve nut. 






Threading ready for prime time. 






Into the collet block and mill for a few passes to cut the slot in the end. 






Flip the collet block (gotta love'em) around to drill the linkage pin hole. 






Tin Man likes it, so do I. 






Made a plexi glass cover for the steam chest but didn't get any pics. It was too easy...

Time for the inlet nipple, an easy process.






 I called to Dinky my dog and had him balance it on his nose so you can get an idea of the size of this thing. It must weigh 5 pounds!






After almost 5 months, one or two parts per week, at last it's here! Thm:











I would like to thank all the contributors to this forum for their helpful advice and comments in general for helping me complete this engine. :bow:

Stay tuned for the video!

-Troutsqueezer.


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## CMS (Apr 9, 2010)

Good looking piece of art work there, bet it runs as the same. :bow: BRIGHT & SHINNY, me like!!!! 8)


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## cobra428 (Apr 9, 2010)

Very Nice Trout,
What did you do.....raid the kids toy box? Very creative!

Tony


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## BigBore (Apr 9, 2010)

Love the Plexi-glass cover. I am definitely going to snarf up that idea. As soon as the video goes up I will upload the PDF.

That's a plum purdy pile of parts, Dennis!

Ed


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 9, 2010)

Beautiful engine and work. It's an eye catcher for sure.
Most definitely staying tuned for the video!


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## rake60 (Apr 9, 2010)

Beautiful Build Trout! :bow:

Rick


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## Foozer (Apr 9, 2010)

Very nicely done


Robert


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## Troutsqueezer (Apr 10, 2010)

Thanks for all the nice compliments Gents. 

As promised, the video....hope you like it as much as I enjoyed making it. 

-Trout

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qu3jrq0j0Bs[/ame]


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## ksouers (Apr 10, 2010)

Very nice Trout. I liked the wood gouge ;D
Surprised you didn't show cutting with an axe :


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## Deanofid (Apr 10, 2010)

Runs very nice, Trout.
I'd love to dig through your trash.

Dean


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## kendo (Apr 10, 2010)

Hi Trout
      Love the video, that sure looks a very impressive engine, and all that
      bling going on.
      Not to sure what the little fella thinks, he looks a bit jealous to me
      at the and of the video  :big:

           All Respect Fella

                         Ken


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## Maryak (Apr 10, 2010)

Trout,

The engine is magnificent a POM nominee for sure. :bow:

As for the video............................. All I can say is





Best Regards
Bob


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## arnoldb (Apr 10, 2010)

Wow Trout ! - Lovely engine :bow: :bow: Thm:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## PhillyVa (Apr 10, 2010)

Great job on the video Trout, just be careful throwing out the trash

Philly


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## SAM in LA (Apr 10, 2010)

TS,

What a beautiful engine.

The finish is fantastic.

The video has raised the bar.

Your robot reminded me of the movie "WALL-E".

Great humor.

SAM


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 10, 2010)

Fantastic Trout. It was worth the wait. Very enjoyable.
The music was good too...it took me home for a while.
Thanks for a great project.

Has anyone asked "What's next?"


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## ironman (Apr 10, 2010)

Beautiful engine, Trout. Video was superb. ironman


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## Troutsqueezer (Apr 10, 2010)

Thank you folks for the nice compliments. It really makes it worth the effort!

Tony> My wife was getting rid of some old knick knacks and I intercepted the box before it made it to the car. I'll let them have it when I'm done. : 

ksouers> Now, cutting with an axe would just be plain silly, wouldn't it? :big:

Dean/Philly> Did you notice I kept throwing the same three parts in the trash bin? It occurred to me I should have emptied the bin to make them easier to dig out. 

kendo> I think Roberta the Penguin Robot was wanting some of that bling and was worried she wouldn't be my precious baby anymore. 

Bob> Thanks very much, I don't know what I can say except "You like me! You really like me!"

Sam in LA> I too was reminded of Wally and had a program set to load into the robot that would make her do a Dancing Feet number but then the batteries ran out.  Actually, in the end footage she was programmed to back away from the engine or anything she sees in front of her but the low batteries affected her logic (and muscle power) so it worked out well. 

Zee> Right now I'm thinking Elmer's #25 for the next one which is fairly simple compared to this one except that it has a cylinder I would like to try machining and I haven't made a flywheel from scratch yet, so thinking I might give that a whirl. 

ironman and arnoldb> I appreciate the nice comments you guys have made all along. :bow:

And to all the others who advised and inspired me...... th_wav


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## kustomkb (Apr 10, 2010)

Nice job! Has a great sound too!

Funny with the "Servo Shuffle" and a nice choice of music.


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## capjak (Apr 10, 2010)

Man, what a project! It is fantastic. 

Great job.

Jack


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## GailInNM (Apr 10, 2010)

Dennis,
Wonderful video and beautiful engine. 
Thanks for sharing the journey.
Gail in NM


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## bearcar1 (Apr 10, 2010)

A most excellent video and the engine is superb! My hat is off to you Dennis, BRAVO!! :bow:
The shots of "aw crap, wrong size" and then tossed in trash are priceless.
BC1
Jim


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## rake60 (Apr 10, 2010)

Fantastic Video Dennis! :bow:

Beautifully documented build as well.

Rick


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## lee9966 (Apr 10, 2010)

Great video, really nicely done! 

Lee


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## Troutsqueezer (Apr 11, 2010)

Thanks again guys! Glad I could contribute something to the forum. 

-Dennis


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## BigBore (Apr 11, 2010)

WOW.....DUDE!.....

That video...Ya know we have a *POM* (*P*roject *O*f the *M*onth) I think we need a *VOM *(*V*ideo *O*f the *M*onth)  

This whole build has been a joy. :bow: :bow: :bow: Thanks for the ride.

The PDF is already in the _Downloads and uploads section_:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?action=tpmod;dl=item259 I put it there 5 minutes ago and it has already been downloaded. 

That video is a stitch!  Rof}

Ed


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## Troutsqueezer (Apr 11, 2010)

Thanks Ed! You're a credit to this forum Sir....

Now I have a worthy pic for my avatar. Thm:

-T


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## black85vette (Apr 11, 2010)

Nice when you can be brief and summarize the project and video with a single word: AWESOME!! :bow:


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## putputman (Apr 11, 2010)

Dennis, it looks like you're going home with all the marbles. Gorgeous engine, great runner, wonderful presentation, terrific video, several neat helpers, and a good build log.

Thanks for bringing us along on the ride.


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