# Steam Engine build from bits and pieces.



## Tony Bird (Jun 24, 2015)

Hi,

This thread is about creating a model stationary engine from bits and pieces that have been bought or were already in stock.

At a model show a brass casting of a beam engine cylinder was bought from a traders scrap bin it was a bit banana shaped but didn't cost much more than its scrap value.  The same bin provided some much over size bronze cylinder covers again at reasonable cost.

A long time after this purchase the cylinder was machined to see what could be made of it.

First Machining.





The cylinder was then bored.  After boring it was decided that the cylinder could be used as the basis of an oscillating engine.





Machining portface.





Milling portface edge.





Cylinder nearly finished having a 1" bore and up to a 45 mm stroke.





A 9" diameter cast iron flywheel of unknown origin that had hung on the workshop wall for many years came into play.





The flywheel cleaned up and the cylinder with its covers made and fitted..





In another thread I described cutting a slot in a piece of steel by chain drilling, it was to be used as a base for the engine.





Some brass legs were machined.





A friend had a beam engine that he had bought but always thought the flywheel looked a little on the light side so we did a swap and I ended up with a bronze flywheel. This is how the part made engine looked until a few days ago.





When cleaning out the workshop an event that doesnt occur often enough; I came across some 'T' section brass that could be used to make some axle pedestals.  So two short lengths were cut and machined.

























This is how things looked at close of play yesterday.





Bearings and bolt the pedestals to the base next.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 24, 2015)

Hi,

Not a lot of progress today, made some shouldered bearings and bolted the pedestal to the base.

Regards Tony.


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## tms6401 (Jun 24, 2015)

I like this idea and I will be following along.

Tom


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## Gerhardvienna (Jun 24, 2015)

Hi Tony
Great Idea, a steamer made out of "nothing"!
I LIKE THAT, well done so far!
Regards
Gerhard


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## Tony Bird (Jun 26, 2015)

Hi,

Two drawings have been made to help in the construction of this model.  The first of the cylinder.





And the second is of the positioning of the cylinder relative to the flywheel.





Not brilliant drawings but they work well enough for me.

Having erected the flywheel on an axle in some bearings the flywheel was found to be concentric but wobble a bit side to side.  Luckily it is about the largest diameter that can be turned in my lathe.  Turning one of the sides of the flywheel.





Cleaning up the flywheel's face.





The flywheel was a long way out of balance it didn't look it but it was.  My high tech balancing machine which is also very good at holding wood for plaining.  With a couple of pieces of aluminium to smooth out the vice jaws it works quite well.





It took thirteen holes drilled almost through the rim of the flywheel to get it anywhere near balanced!  Some oil pots have been made and a start made on making the eight nuts and bolts to secure the bearing pedestals to the base.  The nuts were 5BA which have been threaded to the next size up which is 4BA; on a model I think the next size down nuts look more in proportion to the thread than the correct size ones.





When inspiration comes or a suitable piece of metal arrives I will continue with the build.  I suspect something will have to be fabricated.  That's it for a bit.

Regards Tony.


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## Brian Rupnow (Jun 26, 2015)

Very innovative, Tony. I like it.---Brian


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## bigrigbri (Jun 26, 2015)

More,more.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 30, 2015)

Hi,

I thought I might get a little done on the engine this afternoon after finishing my chores this morning.  I managed about an hour when the temperature in the shed was pushing 30 C I decided to find somewhere cooler.  I did manage to cut and machine two lengths of brass 'T' section and mount the cylinder at the correct height on one of them.  So I hope to do some 'What if' type drawings of the port block and crank disc.

Two photographs of the cylinder mounted.








Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 30, 2015)

Hi,

A lot cooler in the house.  The provisional drawing of the port block.

Not very good plenty of Tippex (correction fluid) but it is a start.  I usually need to make three of these types of drawings before I start machining.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 1, 2015)

Hi,

I didn't have a piece of brass to make a port block and as tomorrow we go away for a bit I was at a bit of a loose end workshop wise so as a diversion I had a look for some bits and pieces to play with and came up with the following.

Two Mamod single acting cylinders left over from modifying two Mamod Roadsters along with other bits not used in those projects namely a fly crank, a couple of nylon bearings, a flywheel, a two step pulley and some aluminium channel. 





So it was decided to make a twin cylinder engine using the bits.  A drawing to get the basic measurements.





The channel was sawn and machined.








Square holes were made in the channel to accommodate the nylon bearings.





The cylinder port blocks were bolted to the channel to line up then drill their securing holes.





With the port blocks mounted a test fitting of the cylinder was tried.





The other cylinder was packed out so that it big end was out side the first cylinder fitted.





So that is what I have been up to today.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 2, 2015)

Hi,

Yesterday evening when it got a little cooler I spent some more time in the shed.  A jig was made so that the holes could be drilled in the port block the original holes having been plugged and silver soldered.  The Mamod Roadster that supplied the cylinders had a reversing lever that moved the cylinder and required two exhausts in the port block.  This reversing system works but does waste steam.  With the holes in the port block plugged the engines could be made left or right handed.  The plugged holes can just be seen in the photograph.





Before the new cylinders had been madeand fitted to the Roadster its original pistons had had '0' rings fitted them.





With the holes drilled in the port blocks the engine was assembled and temporary steam pipes fitted and it was run on air.





A video I hope!

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8Yctb8BCdug" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The engine will run reasonably slowly with little noise.  There are a few things to do to tidy it up. Alter the shape of the channel and paint it.  Some pipe work needs to be made.  Making this engine filled up a lot of the day and its now away for a bit.

When we return an effort will be made to obtain some brass to make a port block from for the large oscillator.  I might even have to buy it!

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 2, 2015)

Hi,

Sorry the video link doesn't seem to work.

Regards Tony.


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## Swifty (Jul 2, 2015)

Try this, https://www.youtube.com/embed/8Yctb8BCdug

Paul.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 2, 2015)

Hi Paul,

Many Thanks.

Regards Tony.


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## AlbertdeWitte (Jul 2, 2015)

Hi Tony

Great work!!


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## Gerhardvienna (Jul 2, 2015)

Hi tony
Superb work! seems to run real smooth, I like it!
Regards 
Gerhard


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## Tony Bird (Jul 13, 2015)

Hi,

Thanks for the words of encouragement.

Having returned from a break in foreign parts (England) I'm back in the shed for a bit.  Having had another look around for some suitable material for a port block I found a couple of lumps of brass.  There were the bases of a clock case; Swiss made no less.





Alas too large for my small mechanical hacksaw, so hand work was required!





Due to only having a small stock of thick sheet brass it was decided to plug and hard solder the holes in the brass.  First the work piece was machined to width.





The length required was slightly less than half he length of the work piece.  So it was decided to make two port blocks; hopefully only one will be needed and the other can be used for another job.  So having cut the work piece to length the plugs were made and soldered in.





The faces of the work piece were then machined.





Two port blocks 40 x 26 x 10 mm.





Now a bit of thinking time and even maybe a drawing is required to help figure out how the port block will be held to its bracket and then line up with the yet to be made fly crank.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 13, 2015)

Hi,

Today I managed to mount the port block on to its bracket and fix the bracket to the base plate.

Lining up the bracket with the bearings mounts before drilling and tapping the securing holes.





The cylinder on the port block and it's bracket secured to the base plate.





As it now looks.





The next part to be made I think will be the crank disc; with the engine having nearly a 2 inch stroke it has to be fairly large fortunately the largest piece of round steel that I have is large enough.  However needing some thinking time I didn't do any more work on the engines.  So while cogitating I decided to do a bit more work on the opposed twin.  First thinning down the packing piece for the one cylinder on a wax chuck.





And having drilled a couple of holes and riveted the cylinder packing piece to it the frame was painted.





As the engine now looks assembled.








Some pipe work still needs to be fitted which might get done during thinking breaks of the large oscillator.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 15, 2015)

Hi,

A start has been made on roughing out a disc crank.


















The horizontal twin has had some pipe work added and has been steam tested.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 15, 2015)

Hi,

After glueing together the flywheel, its axle and crank pin; then truing it up, it was obvious that a hole was needed in the base plate so the yet to be made big end would clear it.





The hole was created in the same way that the large slot for the flywheel was by chain drilling.  Though I have described this method  in another thread it might be worth repeating.  If like me you don't have a machine larger enough to make a rectangular hole in a 1/4" thick steel plate, it will have to be done by hand, well with the help of a drilling machine that is.  Having decided on a suitable size drill in this case 4mm the rectangular hole is marked out with a line a bit more than 2mm inside the hole size required; starting at a corner centre punch marks are made at 4mm pitches.  It is worth doing this accurately as it will save a lot of time it comes to filing out hole.





After spotting the centre punch marks a 3.8mm hole is drilled every other mark.  Doing this allows a smaller drill to be used if the drill wanders leaving a smaller gap between the holes first drilled.





Drilling of holes finished.





The remaining metal has been cut through using a Piercing Saw (jewellers saw).





Having cleaned up the hole with a file the model was assembled again.








Drilling the ports in the port block will be next.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 17, 2015)

Hi,

Today except for the making and fitting of a condensation valve the port block was finished.

First the steam ports were spotted using a jig.





The steam ports were then drilled after which the steam passageways were also drilled.  Some of the holes were threaded and plugs soldered in them.  Then the steam/exhaust pipes were soldered into the port block.  The inked lines show the position of the passageways.





The steam/exhaust pipes are arranged so they go through the port block pedestal's base and then on through the base plate.





A bearing pivot was fitted to the cylinder.





A spring and lock nuts were fitted to hold the cylinder to its port block.





This is how the model looked at the end of the day; not a lot different to when it started the day.





Make and fit a condensation valve next I think.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 18, 2015)

Hi,

The condensation valve has been made.  This valve is used when starting from cold it allows steam to go from which ever is the steam passageway directly to the exhaust passageway so bye-passing the cylinders.  This steam travelling through the port block heats it up and removes any condensation and steam oil left in them from a previous run, it also reduces the engines tendency to hydraulic when starting from cold.  While visiting a model shop which also was a craft shop I saw and bought these.  They are metal but I do not know what they were intended for.





One of them provided a handle for the condensation valve.





The incomplete engine was connected to a compressor to check that the valve worked and the steam passageways were clear.  On the base plate is the piece of square brass off-cut that was to become the big end.





The square section brass that was to become the big end was drilled for the crank pin and drilled and tapped for the piston rod and oil pot.  it was then mounted on a mandrel being secured with shellac for turning.











A oil pot was made and fitted along with a temporary piston rod.








We are away for a day or so but with a bit of luck the engine will be running sometime next week.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Jul 19, 2015)

Tony on your steam set up for the two cylinder engine are you using silicone tubing?


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## Cymro77 (Jul 19, 2015)

Great work on both engines, thanks for sharing!  Will be watching the rest of the build.  David


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## Tony Bird (Jul 20, 2015)

Hi David,

*Tony on your steam set up for the two cylinder engine are you using silicone tubing?*

Yes, it is silicon tubing, I use it quite a lot when testing engines' it is quick to set up, obviously flexible and doesn't loose as much heat as a copper pipe does. When used with steam it can often be difficult to remove from the copper pipe the heat must effect it somehow?  I have also used it as a permanent joint between copper pipes on some of my models.  I know of at least one steam model manufacturer that uses it on his models.  It works very well for joints as to remove it it is just cut off and a new piece is used when assembling.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 20, 2015)

Hi,

I did enough work on the engine today to get it running on air!

First some PTFE was turned to make some packing for the piston rod and a gland nut was turned.





The gland nut and gland assembled on the piston rod.








Some cylinder cover gaskets were made.





The piston was roughed out.





The slot for the '0' was finished by hand.





With an '0' ring fitted the cylinder was assembled.





The engine was then assembled completely and looked like this.











I will post I hope video of it working in the next post.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 21, 2015)

Hi,

A video link which I hope someone will improve for me

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qZBchRVo1fk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Regards Tony.


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## Swifty (Jul 21, 2015)

I just copied and pasted this part of it to get it to work. https://www.youtube.com/embed/qZBchRVo1fk

Paul.


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## Cogsy (Jul 21, 2015)

This should show it inside the post - Swifty, the 'embed' bit is causing the problem, you need the address with 'watch' in it to work inside a post.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZBchRVo1fk[/ame]


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## Swifty (Jul 21, 2015)

Thanks Cogsy, I recalled that someone else once mentioned how to do it, but of course, I took no notice at the time.

Paul.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 21, 2015)

Hi Paul & Al,

Many thanks.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Jul 21, 2015)

Tony,  Once again you have made an incredible engine.  I love the slowness and motions observed.  Reminds me very much of a Mill or drilling engine.  Thanks for the inspiration and milling instruction.  DW


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## Tony Bird (Jul 21, 2015)

Hi,

I never think you have a model steam engine until it is proved to run on steam.  So I thought I would give it a go and run the model on steam.  With my fairly small vertical test  boiler I was hoping to get a minute or so's run after the engine had warmed up.  Amazingly after the boiler's safety valve was blowing off at around 40 psi with the condensation valve open the regulator was opened and after about 10 seconds the condensation valve was closed the engine started itself! With the regulator closed down so the engine was going slowly it continued to do so until the boiler was nearly empty which took 15/20 minutes.  When running the engine on compressed air using a pressure regulator the it is quite happy to tick over on 3 to 5 psi.  This boiler usually manages to continuously power a Stuart 10H or S50 at a reasonable speed.  I'm sure that if I was better at sums I could work out the different cylinder volumes against speed to prove the boiler would power such a large engine.   I am very pleased with the results.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/-JhjPvtWuAk

https://www.youtube.com/watch/-JhjPvtWuAk 


Regards Tony.


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## Cogsy (Jul 21, 2015)

Engine runs great, noce job!

Your youtube link is almost right but not quite. If you go to a youtube 'watch' page and just copy the address in the top bar, then paste it into a post it will work. The proper address for this one (with the htt.. bit removed so it will show up) is /www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JhjPvtWuAk

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JhjPvtWuAk[/ame]


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## Tony Bird (Jul 22, 2015)

Hi Al,

Thank you again,

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 31, 2015)

Hi,

I thought to draw out a boiler for the engine and mentioned such to SWMBO who said won't one of the boilers that you have already made and haven't used do?  I thought it very unlikely that any of the unused boilers I have would produce enough steam to power the engine for more than a couple of minutes.  The largest boiler that is in stock is a simple plain pot boiler about 2" diameter and 6" long which was designed to be heated either by gas using a ceramic burner or Sterno in a tray.  A ceramic burner hadn't been made but a tray had!  So it was given a go!  The boiler was connected to the engine using silicon tubes via a regulator and lubricator.  The Sterno was lit and the boiler supplied enough steam to run the engine for nearly 20 minutes!  The engine can run very slowly and obviously consumes as much steam or less than a lot smaller engines with a lot higher RPM.

The set up.





Some Sterno in the tray.





The boiler fired up.





The inevitable video.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/iwxd0nfFlDM


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iwxd0nfFlDM[/ame]



So no need to make a dedicated boiler just tidy up what I already have.

Regards Tony


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## Tony Bird (Jul 31, 2015)

Hello again,

Came across a photograph of the beam engine that my original cast iron flywheel was fitted to.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 21, 2015)

Hi,

As a result of purchases at a model exhibition I have started to make some additions to the engine.  I thought that the right hand side of the engine opposite the cylinder looked a little bare so decided to fit a boiler feed pump there.

Two of my purchases at the show were some gunmetal castings from the same guy that sold me the cylinder for the engine last year.  One of the casting was of a pump body the other right angle and 'T' pipe connectors.  After some thought it was decided to use the pipe connector casting as a basis of the pump.








The cut out 'T' was machined.





And attached to some 'T' sectioned brass that had been used for other parts of the engine.





An eccentric was rough out and cut before machining.





I couldn't find a casting for the eccentric strap so had to machine one from the solid.





This is how the engine looks today.











I have also made and fitted a steam regulator valve.





I might get a bit more done tomorrow SWMBO permitting.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 22, 2015)

Tony,
again you hit it out of the park.  Great work, I love how the engine is developing what's next? A speed control?
Cymro77


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## Tony Bird (Aug 23, 2015)

Hi David,

*I love how the engine is developing what's next? A speed control?*

Maybe if I come across something  to make a governor from. There are still a few things that I have to finish first; a lubricator and a bye-pass valve for the feed pump to start with. 

Yesterday I managed to do a little more to the feed pump.  The pump bracket was attached to the base plate and the valves and some pipe work made.





Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 23, 2015)

Hi,

Finished and tested the feed water pump today.  Some photographs.














Video of testing the feed pump at;

www.youtube.com/embed/KaYXfwd-BvE


I am quite pleased with the result the managed to lift the water an inch from dry but until it has been checked against boiler pressure you can never be sure how well it will work; still it looks promising.

Next job is to connect the pump to the eccentric which won't be until the end of the week as we will be visiting our latest grandchild for a few days.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 24, 2015)

Very cool!  Great photography and videography - I hope you payed the pianoman!


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## Tony Bird (Aug 26, 2015)

Hi David,

*I hope you paid the piano man!*

On my pension?

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 28, 2015)

Hi,

Well it is the end of the week and I have managed to connect the pump to its eccentric.  Also some rubber belt that was ordered on eBay has arrived.  So I will put a copy of this missive in my thread on flat drive belts.

First the belt; having tried belts used in vacuum cleaners and belts supplied by PMR for use on their models the next to try is some 10 mm wide, 1 mm thick rubber belt.  So far it is the cheapest of the products tried and cost £3.75 inc. delivery for about 2M.  Like the PMR it is joined by overlapping it and gluing using Superglue and and both have the advantage over vacuum cleaner belts in that different lengths can be made up.  As it is thicker than the PMR product the joint makes more of a slap when it goes over the pulleys.  Unlike the PMR belt; being rubber the belt is slightly elastic which might be an advantage.

As the belt is bought.





The joint with the ends of the belt slightly chamfered.  On joining the next belt I will try and make a longer chamfer.





So so far in checking out flat belts  all seem to work well in that they stay on the pulleys and transmit power well.  Next when I find some I check out leather and fabric belts.

Now the pump. Nothing different in the making of the components except perhaps using a shellac charged spigot to machine the outside of the small ends.








The finished pump mounted on the engine.











You've seen the pictures now watch the video of the belt and pump in action here.

www.youtube.com/embed/poRACkYbcpg

Make a bypass valve next I think.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 28, 2015)

Tony,
Another fascinating episode in the build - I love it, especially all of the extras adding interest.
To get a smoother belt joint skive the ends with a longer more tapered surface, then join.
Keep up the good work.  I am now ready for your speed control!


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## Tony Bird (Aug 29, 2015)

Hi David,

The governor isn't a problem but I will have to do some research on the steam valve it operates.  So it is the by-pass valve next then a built in lubricator, some pipe work to connect it to a boiler and then perhaps a line shaft.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 30, 2015)

Hi

A by-pass valve has been made.





I have bought some more hand wheels that have been used on the engine.  They were bought in a craft shop.  If anyone is interested they are Chinese made via America and are marketed by Jim Holtz idea-ology and are described as a collection of metal cogs used as adornment!





I haven't thought what I can do with the other bits yet!

I hope to make the lubricator before we go on our travels.

Regards Tony.


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## don-tucker (Aug 30, 2015)

Thats a good find tony,and a very interesting posting,thanks a lot
Don


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## Cymro77 (Aug 30, 2015)

Tony,
Once again my ignorance comes to the fore!  What are we bypassing with the valve?  Are there any instructions for construction of the valve?
Thanks,  DW


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## Tony Bird (Aug 31, 2015)

Hi David,

*Once again my ignorance comes to the fore! What are we bypassing with the valve? Are there any instructions for construction of the valve?*

Most ways of feeding water into a boiler can be controlled by either switching it on and off or controlling its speed.  With the engines working a pump directly this isn't so easily done, you can either vary the stroke of the pump with a link that looks like the expansion link used in valve gear or more simply using a by-pass valve. 

A by-pass valve is a stop valve like say a globe valve.  It works when the boiler has sufficient water by directing the water back into the tank it came from.  It works thus; the water from a tank is gravity feed to the pump, the pump pumps the water into a 'T' connector one of its feeds is connected to a clack valve on the boiler, the other feed to the by-pass valve.  When the by-pass valve is closed the water goes into the boiler, when the valve is open the water takes the easiest route (no boiler pressure to contend with) to the tank.  It is sometimes possible to regulate the water supply to the boiler by slightly opening the valve when some water goes to the boiler the rest to the tank.

So any stop type valve can be used; mine looks as it does because it is convenient for the pipe work to go back the way it came.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Aug 31, 2015)

Tony,  thanks for the explanation.  I have a lot to learn about setting up steam layouts.  But learning I am thanks a lot. I appreciate your patience.
DW


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## Gedeon Spilett (Sep 1, 2015)

A very nice thread Tony, thanks for sharing this lot of useful tricks.
A simple and straightforward way to build models, it looks so easy...


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## Tony Bird (Sep 3, 2015)

Hi,

Except for some pipe work the engine that started with a flywheel and a cylinder casting is finished!





The by-pass valve has been fitted and a displacement lubricator has been made and fitted.

Silicon tube was used to protect the threads while the engine base was painted.





Other photographs of the completed engine.














The inevitable video at.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/cHUrB2k9Rac

That's it for a bit we are away from tomorrow until the end of the month.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Oct 3, 2015)

Hi,


A bit of an up date.  Video at:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/5GSIFYfWuIc

Regards Tony.


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 3, 2015)

A truly marvelous job. Congratulations Sir!!!----Brian


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## ShopShoe (Oct 3, 2015)

Tony,

I have been enjoying this one. I see the beginnings of a lineshaft system: Will we see some additional things connected up?

--ShopShoe


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## 10K Pete (Oct 3, 2015)

A wonderful engine. I love the slow, quiet motion and the double link
rods to the pump. This has been a great thread to follow and a fine
inspiration.

Thanks,
Pete


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## Tony Bird (Oct 4, 2015)

Hi,

*I see the beginnings of a line shaft system: Will we see some additional things connected up?
*

Possibly.  The initial idea was to use the engine to add interest to our 16 mm Scale model railway layout which has a Welsh theme.  The idea was perhaps to use the engine to power a slate saw; however the model it getting to be a little large and heavy so a re-think might happen.

The work being done to the engine at the moment is for show in the Midlands this coming Saturday.

A few constructional notes; most of the wood used has come from some oak draw sides.  Sometime in the 1930's a shop fitted made a wool storage cabinet for the Bon Marche in Aberdare South Wales.  In the 1970's this cabinet was bought at auction and for many years used for storage in a workshop, when the workshop was up graded the cabinet now much modified was to be thrown out.  I was working in the workshop and salvaged all the draws: the plywood bottoms have long since been used up however I still have a good stock of their oak sides.  The engine room floor is the remains of the flooring used in our bath room.  I didn't think I would be able to show the boiler feed pump working as it would take too long to make a suitable water tank; however a visit to our local Supermarket solved this problem!

There is still a lot to do; though a bye pass valve has been made it cannot be used until the pump is connect to the boiler,  another means of filling the boiler while it is in steam has to be made and fitted and possibly a ceramic burner and gas tank fitted to replace the Sterno tray now used.   This with the completion of the building will make it even heavier and possibly larger!

I will report further progress.

Regards Tony.


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## Cymro77 (Oct 4, 2015)

Tony,
Spam?  Really?
Beautiful work, and the engine grows and grows!  Your imagination, and fine attention to detail are amazing!  I have learned so much from you, and your posts, old and new.  Diaown, diolch!
DW


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## Tony Bird (Oct 26, 2015)

Hi,

I decided to taken a short close up video of the engine in steam, just as it was running out of steam! The result.

https://youtu.be/YoX6ir35N9c

Regards Tony.


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## nevadablue (Nov 16, 2015)

Bravo Tony! What a beautiful machine. Every machine should include Spam somewhere. 

A nice mine dewatering pump would be an interesting build.


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