# My Drill Chuck Keeps Falling Off



## CFLBob (Jul 8, 2020)

This is the drill chuck I use on my big milling machine.  The mill has an R8 taper (Grizzly G0704) and when I was setting up tooling for it, I bought a nice chuck from Little Machine Shop for it.  The chuck has a JT33 taper and I bought an R8 to JT33 adapter - from LMS, I think. 

If it matters, the adapter is branded South Bend and the chuck is Harvest.  The chuck is 1/32" to 1/2" and I've not seen many of those, so I'd like to keep it.

For the last several months, the chuck has been falling off the adapter more and more often.  I've cleaned both surfaces with a rag, but that has apparently done nothing because the problem keeps getting worse.

How can I fix this?  I can't push the R8 adapter into the chuck harder than I've been doing.  


Bob


----------



## jack620 (Jul 8, 2020)

CFLBob said:


> How can I fix this?



You can try chilling the adaptor in the freezer and warming the chuck in the oven (say 100C/210F). Make sure the chuck jaws are retracted inside the body. Using an oven mitt, hold the heated chuck vertically on a block of wood and drop the chilled adaptor into it. Give the adaptor a few good taps with a soft faced hammer. This will give you a tight shrink-fit.

I've done this a couple of times and never had a chuck come loose.


----------



## SmithDoor (Jul 8, 2020)

Clean all oil off both parts.
Then putting both together.
Tap the Chuck on the R8 using a brass hammer and a anvil. Do not try tapping in the mill.

Dave



CFLBob said:


> This is the drill chuck I use on my big milling machine.  The mill has an R8 taper (Grizzly G0704) and when I was setting up tooling for it, I bought a nice chuck from Little Machine Shop for it.  The chuck has a JT33 taper and I bought an R8 to JT33 adapter - from LMS, I think.
> 
> If it matters, the adapter is branded South Bend and the chuck is Harvest.  The chuck is 1/32" to 1/2" and I've not seen many of those, so I'd like to keep it.
> 
> ...


----------



## CFLBob (Jul 8, 2020)

Thanks Dave, and Jack620.  

I will attempt both.  Clean thoroughly with solvent to make sure there's no grease, and then try the hot chuck, frozen adapter method.


----------



## SmithDoor (Jul 8, 2020)

Glad to help

Dave



CFLBob said:


> Thanks Dave, and Jack620.
> 
> I will attempt both.  Clean thoroughly with solvent to make sure there's no grease, and then try the hot chuck, frozen adapter method.


----------



## dnalot (Jul 8, 2020)

If the above does not work lap the chuck to the adapter and then clean and try again. I had this problem before and lapping did the trick. 

Mark T


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 9, 2020)

Hi CFL Bob,

You will probably find that both parts are very hard so my preference would be to lap them together.  It doesn't take much of a difference in the taper angle for them to loosen.

You could also blue them and actually see where the points of contact are.


----------



## ShopShoe (Jul 9, 2020)

Second on testing the fit with the blue. I had that problem with my old Delta drill press and I found the fit poor. Once I cleaned things up it stayed on.

--ShopShoe


----------



## WOB (Jul 9, 2020)

If the fit is reasonably good, put a dab of Loctite( any kind)  on the degreased  male taper and tap it into the chuck body with a soft hammer.  24 hrs. cure time and problem solved. 

WOB


----------



## packrat (Jul 9, 2020)

The best way to fix the  problem is with a Abrecht drill chuck with a R8 shank {not cheep} or go with a straight shank and use a collet in the R8 spindle
to hold the straight shank...and do away with the Morse taper or the 33JT


----------



## SmithDoor (Jul 9, 2020)

The down side to Loctite is need to remove the Chuck it is real pain.

Dave



WOB said:


> If the fit is reasonably good, put a dab of Loctite( any kind)  on the degreased  male taper and tap it into the chuck body with a soft hammer.  24 hrs. cure time and problem solved.
> 
> WOB


----------



## bluejets (Jul 9, 2020)

CFLBob said:


> How can I fix this?  I can't push the R8 adapter into the chuck harder than I've been doing.
> Bob



Fist check would be to make sure it's not bottoming out in the adaptor.


----------



## dwentz (Jul 10, 2020)

I would start with testing the fit with highspot blue or a smoke test. That will tell you how good or bad the fit is. If they are not perfect you can lap them in a bit and then do the hot and cold thing. You did not say what operation you are doing when the chuck was coming off. If you are using the chuck to hold end mills or other tooling and applying side pressure it is common for them to separate, due to the side pressure.


----------



## CFLBob (Jul 10, 2020)

For some reason, the forum never let me know these updates posted yesterday, just today.  I came back and see several posts talking about checking with dye.  I don't know what a smoke test is.

I tried the hot/cold approach yesterday but haven't tested it yet.  I put the adaptor into my freezer set to 0F, and put the chuck in a toaster oven in the shop set to 200.  I left both in those places almost a full hour.  

Dale, this has been exclusively drilling.  No end mills, and no cranking the work sideways into the chuck.  I'm not sure when it started, but I'm rather sure it has gotten worse.  The pair was bought toward the end of '14.  

If the fit doesn't work, I'll start looking at the blue Dykem on the adapter.  It will certainly be easier to see issues on that than on the inside of the chuck.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 10, 2020)

CFLBob said:


> For some reason, the forum never let me know these updates posted yesterday, just today.  I came back and see several posts talking about checking with dye.  I don't know what a smoke test is.



The "smoke" test is using a candle flame to make soot on the part !
When the two parts are fitted together the soot gets rubbed off where the parts make contact.

I don't think Dykem will work for this, you need engineers blue. A really thin smear will do.



> I tried the hot/cold approach yesterday but haven't tested it yet.  I put the adaptor into my freezer set to 0F, and put the chuck in a toaster oven in the shop set to 200.  I left both in those places almost a full hour.
> 
> Dale, this has been exclusively drilling.  No end mills, and no cranking the work sideways into the chuck.  I'm not sure when it started, but I'm rather sure it has gotten worse.  The pair was bought toward the end of '14.
> 
> If the fit doesn't work, I'll start looking at the blue Dykem on the adapter.  It will certainly be easier to see issues on that than on the inside of the chuck.


----------



## dwentz (Jul 10, 2020)

Correct on the smoke test, a candle or a wooden stick soaked in oil works, that how I was taught to do it. Soot one of the parts and see what is removed. Dykem is not what you want, Prussian Blue Fitting Compound by Permatex or Dykem Hi-Spot Blue are the two most common. Warning on the prussian blue. It will leak from the container once open and make mess that is impossible to clean up. Put in a baggie or small sealed container after opening the tube. Not sure what it is with this stuff, but it defies all the laws of physics with its ability to escape the tube, or get on things you do not want it on. I have observed this phenomenon many times, it does not like to be contained!!!


----------



## SmithDoor (Jul 10, 2020)

Any time I machine a tapper for morse tapper or Jacob tapper I use Prussian Blue for fitting. 
I have also use Prussian Blue for scraping bed ways too.

Dave



dwentz said:


> Correct on the smoke test, a candle or a wooden stick soaked in oil works, that how I was taught to do it. Soot one of the parts and see what is removed. Dykem is not what you want, Prussian Blue Fitting Compound by Permatex or Dykem Hi-Spot Blue are the two most common. Warning on the prussian blue. It will leak from the container once open and make mess that is impossible to clean up. Put in a baggie or small sealed container after opening the tube. Not sure what it is with this stuff, but it defies all the laws of physics with its ability to escape the tube, or get on things you do not want it on. I have observed this phenomenon many times, it does not like to be contained!!!


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 10, 2020)

dwentz said:


> Warning on the prussian blue. It will leak from the container once open and make mess that is impossible to clean up. Put in a baggie or small sealed container after opening the tube. Not sure what it is with this stuff, but it defies all the laws of physics with its ability to escape the tube, or get on things you do not want it on. I have observed this phenomenon many times, it does not like to be contained!!!



Tell me about it !  I bought a tin of Engineers Blue.  Never been opened. It must have sat in that tool box for a year or so.  When I came to use it the tin and part of the tool box bottom was covered in the stuff.


----------



## CFLBob (Jul 10, 2020)

I did eight operations with the chuck by making a couple of countersunk holes in a piece of scrap today and had no trouble with the chuck at all.  

Two spot drills, two small drill holes, two full-sized holes and two countersinks.  All of these things were bigger than what I was working on when I finally said I've got to fix this.    

I couldn't get through one set of operations the other day.  I couldn't countersink a drilled hole.  The hole was smaller than 1/8" dia. (0.116) and a 3/8" countersink.  Almost as soon as countersink touched metal, I could hear the sound change and the chuck would go loose on the adapter.  

I can't swear it's all fixed, but it's better than it was.  

Thanks for the suggestions on Prussian blue.  I ordered some lapping compound and if I have more trouble, I'll go that route.


----------



## Saddo (Jul 11, 2020)

Drill chucks should only be used for drilling. Hope your not using it for milling as under side forces they will ultimately fall off anyway.


----------



## CFLBob (Jul 11, 2020)

Saddo said:


> Drill chucks should only be used for drilling. Hope your not using it for milling as under side forces they will ultimately fall off anyway.



Nope.  It's on my milling machine and is only used for drilling holes and countersinks.


----------



## Cogsy (Jul 11, 2020)

An hour in the toaster sounds about right but I would have left the part in the freezer at least 8-12 hours to get it properly cold. Sounds like you've got it sorted now anyway but something to consider if you need to do similar in the future.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 11, 2020)

Hi CFLBob, Guys,

I often use automotive chrome polish for fine lapping work !


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 11, 2020)

Might I suggest one of Geo Thomas's favourites? The use of cigarette paper!
I've been trying to get a little slap of cast iron to sit firmly in the vice- and despite judicious clouts with various hammers. I'm making a cast iron tool holder BEFORE making the Worden-- mentioned somewhere.
So I tore a strip off- an envelo-- and voila. It's as solid as the proverbial brick toilet.
If you'Bob' have no success from a similar expedient- buy a new drill chuck and arbour.
If someone actually costed the failed/ or now successful repair and my late father was around, he'd have thrown the anvil and uttered strange Welsh words.


----------



## justisla (Jul 12, 2020)

BaronJ said:


> The "smoke" test is using a candle flame to make soot on the part !


And there was me thinking it was-- go & have a cigarette & a sit & think about it for a while !!!
Does work for some problems


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 12, 2020)

I had to laugh but cut slips of cigarette paper held or not held from jobs held in say vices is a great way to determine 'fit'
Again, setting up for - say milling is to stick a piece of cigarette paper  and bring the cutter down gently until the cutter sweeps the paper away- and that is your zero.
The pernicket mike' their papers.

I was once sent into what I believe was an abandoned top secret Air Ministry or RAF unit to 'relieve' it of stationery. . Not all playing at would be a 'I'll be an engineer some day' and I reported just  'my haul' by counting the number of sheets in one inch-- and doing a simple sum from that. There was a lorry full.
I never told him how I forged rubber stamps on 'Leave Passes' I did it with blotting paper!


----------



## HennieL (Jul 12, 2020)

jack620 said:


> You can try chilling the adaptor in the freezer and warming the chuck in the oven (say 100C/210F). Make sure the chuck jaws are retracted inside the body. Using an oven mitt, hold the heated chuck vertically on a block of wood and drop the chilled adaptor into it. Give the adaptor a few good taps with a soft faced hammer. This will give you a tight shrink-fit.





> I can't swear it's all fixed, but it's better than it was.



Well done - and good advice from jack620 - that's also how I do it, with one exception - I cool the tapered arbor/adapter by placing it in liquid nitrogen (LN) for a few minutes. At -196°C it shrinks much more than it does at just 0°, and it's pretty certain that your environment will never become that cold ever again, so no risk of the taper shrinking again due to cold weather, and falling off again in the middle of winter.

I get my LN from a local farmer's co-operative - it's used in artificial insemination by cattle breeders to store their prize bull's semen, and is generally available here in South Africa, so it should also be available just about anywhere else in the World. I normally buy as much as will go into a 2 liter coffee thermos flask - that keeps it usable for between 12 and 24 hours before it all evaporates. I use LN regularly as part of the heat treating I do on the knives I make - cryogenic treatment is required on many of the exotic "super steels" used on high-end knives.

Three safety issues to keep in mind:

It will freeze anything that it touches, and kill whatever body part it freezes
It will replace the oxygen in a closed room/vehicle, and you will die from asphyxiation - keep a door open to the outside, and preferably a fan blowing out of the room. Ideally, have an open window somewhere opposite the door to allow fresh air to enter.
DO NOT close the lid of the flask or whatever container you use - the nitrogen gas that forms continuously will want to expand, and will blow up the container if it is shut air tight (and spray you and/or the room with the liquid nitrogen in the container, causing injury to any flesh it touches - see 1 above...


----------



## Steamchick (Jul 13, 2020)

Instead of the candle black, I use pencil, dirty oily hands, felt-pen, or Engineer's Blue when I want to be posh, or can't find my pencil (Behind my ear? on the floor?), or haven't been working on old british bikes (dirty hands), or the felt-pen has had the top left off and dried-up!...


----------



## Steamchick (Jul 13, 2020)

Stupid of me. Just remembered - when I got my miller-driller, I needed an arbour for the new drill chuck I had, so bought one with female thread in the back to take a draw-bar. Does your chuck arbour not take a draw-bar - like all the other milling chucks, etc you use in your machine? - A new one to suit your taper and draw-bar is pretty cheap, or you can make another draw-bar with a bit of rod, a bolt and a welder.... (which is what I did). I use draw-bars to take the collet-chuck from my miller to use in my lathe when I want a specific sized precision grip, instead of the 3-jaw chuck. Morse tapers without draw bar won't take eccentric loads (side thrusts from milling tools, fly-cutters, etc.), only balanced loads from multi-cutting edged drills (twist drills, etc.).


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 13, 2020)

Steamchick said:


> Instead of the candle black, I use pencil, dirty oily hands, felt-pen, or Engineer's Blue when I want to be posh, or can't find my pencil (Behind my ear? on the floor?), or haven't been working on old british bikes (dirty hands), or the felt-pen has had the top left off and dried-up!...



Perhaps an alternative would be to d et ermine. whether the taper shank is hollow or bellied.
Just a thought or three from someone who isn't apparently regarded as an engineer.


----------



## awake (Jul 13, 2020)

Steamchick said:


> Stupid of me. Just remembered - when I got my miller-driller, I needed an arbour for the new drill chuck I had, so bought one with female thread in the back to take a draw-bar. Does your chuck arbour not take a draw-bar - like all the other milling chucks, etc you use in your machine? - A new one to suit your taper and draw-bar is pretty cheap, or you can make another draw-bar with a bit of rod, a bolt and a welder.... (which is what I did). I use draw-bars to take the collet-chuck from my miller to use in my lathe when I want a specific sized precision grip, instead of the 3-jaw chuck. Morse tapers without draw bar won't take eccentric loads (side thrusts from milling tools, fly-cutters, etc.), only balanced loads from multi-cutting edged drills (twist drills, etc.).



I think the issue is that the drill chuck is (or was) falling off the Jacobs taper - not that the arbor was falling out of the mill. Of course, I may be wrong - I am prepared to be corrected!


----------



## Richard Hed (Jul 13, 2020)

justisla said:


> And there was me thinking it was-- go & have a cigarette & a sit & think about it for a while !!!
> Does work for some problems


My kidz keep telling me to give up smoking.  But I caught a pea Harvester on Fire two weeks ago (trying to get enough $$ to buy a better lathe),. which wasn't my fault really, and so they now call me "Smokin' Don".  We got the fire put out before it did any damage but it was fun all the same.


Steamchick said:


> Instead of the candle black, I use pencil, dirty oily hands, felt-pen, or Engineer's Blue when I want to be posh, or can't find my pencil (Behind my ear? on the floor?), or haven't been working on old british bikes (dirty hands), or the felt-pen has had the top left off and dried-up!...


Yeah, been there done that.


----------



## Steamchick (Jul 13, 2020)

If the drill chuck is falling off the taper on the arbour, I wonder if a "strong bond" anaerobic adhesive will work? (E.g one of the Loctite  or Japanese adhesive manufacturers' range? But stronger than thread lock or bearing fit grades. There are dozens, so they must do a taper-fit adhesive.).
But I have no experience of that Jacobs JT taper being a problem.
K


----------



## Steamchick (Jul 13, 2020)

Goldstar 31. Do you own one? The ony classic racing engines I had were a Triumph 500C circa 1955 (splayed inlets and exhausts, aka later 650s) and a couple of 500 GP engines (parallel inlet and parallel exhausts). Well, one was a GP but after the previous owner had a "failure" he could only get replacement fire- engine barrels.
Sorry, I have drifted off the drill problem.
K


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 13, 2020)

I had an 'intruder at midnight last night.
Post deleted- Police and my family advised


----------



## Charles Lamont (Jul 13, 2020)

There should be no need to shrink fit a Jacobs taper.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 14, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> I had an 'intruder at midnight last night.
> Post deleted- Police and my family advised



I hope that you have the shotgun handy !


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 14, 2020)

Ah Well, the whole place is under construction again with some firm putting in fibre cables.  So cars are being parked anywhere.
My good neighbours solved the occurrence which was a car bringing in neighbours who have an Indian restaurant- and parking at my entrance- and nattering and nattering- with the car lights full on into my bedroom.
All the street lights are - off and one of my security lights is US. Son wont let me change the fitting.
I taught him- but the fact has not sunk in- yet.


----------



## justisla (Jul 15, 2020)

I had a 5/8 inch drill chuck that kept falling off, so I used a centre punch to put  about a dozen indents into the taper. I then hammered the chuck on tight. It was on a Sealey pillar drill that i retained after I sold my joinery business 20 years ago. I have had it about 40 years. It has not fallen off since & I use it regularly


----------



## terryd (Jul 15, 2020)

Steamchick said:


> Instead of the candle black, I use pencil, dirty oily hands, felt-pen, or Engineer's Blue when I want to be posh, or can't find my pencil (Behind my ear? on the floor?), or haven't been working on old british bikes (dirty hands), or the felt-pen has had the top left off and dried-up!...



I wouldn't use engineers blue for marking out.  That is greasy mucky stuff used as a 'witness'  when fitting parts together, I'd prefer to use 'layout blue' which dries hard and quickly.


----------



## BaronJ (Jul 16, 2020)

Hi Terry, Guys,

I just use a cheap permanent maker !


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 16, 2020)

BaronJ said:


> Hi Terry, Guys,
> 
> I just use a cheap permanent maker !



I use one in preference to a brush full brush  which has to be cleaned. Great for checking ground faces on tools- with a dental mirror to check if all the black has gone


----------



## Henry K (Jul 16, 2020)

I once, and still have, a good German (Rohm) keyless drill chuck. I then bought a new unbranded Chinese arbor somewhere, bad move. The chuck would not stay on the arbor. I suspected the arbor had an  improperly made taper even though it had the needed taper marked on it..
I then bought a more expensive Jacobs brand arbor. It matched perfectly. It has been in use for years.
Properly made drill chuck arbors and drill chucks, use properly, always work perfectly. If you have to play with it, it was not made properly. Alternately, the arbor or chuck was used and damaged.

Unfortunately, I have had other instances of poor quality control on new Chinese made tools and machines including an otherwise nice Grizzly lathe and also a Jet lathe at the University where I supervise a Mechanical Engineering machine shop. It baffles me why the China made machines frequently have good engineering designs, good bearings, etc. lots of quality machining and then screw up a nice machine by saving nearly nothing on Quality Control.


----------



## L98fiero (Jul 17, 2020)

Henry K said:


> It baffles me why the China made machines frequently have good engineering designs, good bearings, etc. lots of quality machining and then screw up a nice machine by saving nearly nothing on Quality Control.


It all comes down to what the importer/dealer wants to pay for the goods, as the saying goes, there's quality, delivery and price, you can have any two of them.


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 17, 2020)

John Ruskin. He was a guy that was good enough to have a prestigious English University name. after him , wrote as follows:-

"There is hardly anything in this World that someone cannot sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person's lawful prey. It is unwise to pay too much but bit is worse to pay too little"


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 17, 2020)

oops sorry


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 29, 2020)

goldstar31 said:


> John Ruskin. He was a guy that was good enough to have a prestigious English University name. after him , wrote as follows:-
> 
> "There is hardly anything in this World that someone cannot sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price alone are that person's lawful prey. It is unwise to pay too much but bit is worse to pay too little"



Thinking tooling, I have just lashed out almost £200 having found that my drill chucks , drilling a 7mm bore in a pair of holders for  'way out' in aluminium and not good enough in the steel one.
The steel one would have done but re aluniniu one was 'a rattling good fit' Ugh!!!

So whilst I was on, I bought some decent little metric taps and dies- and realised that I would have to make metric holders-  

Then I had a think. I wanted a set of soft jaws for the Myford( Per BaronJ) and ran into trouble with supplies now.
All was not lost, I had a 4"SC chuck on the Sieg- with soft jaws. But, but, myfords have threaded spindles- so a back plate was necessary Unfortunately, the Covid-19 is around the suppli ers prenise s and there is 'lockdown'?  Except Myford faceplates have 4 or 8 slots. The Sieg chuck has THREE.
But I have 10 inch or so un-drilled plate from one of my dividing heads- this one is a Vertex.

So I am having to cutdown the Vertex plate to fit and then - drill the 3 holes------ but the vertex is too big for the Myford being bought for the mill drill. Hopes haven't faded as a I have a Geo Thomas Small dividing head which will fit the saddle-- but the tee slots are imperial- but the tapping-- is metric.

I Hope??????????? Face East because that was where the last miracle was supposed to come from.
I missed that one.


----------



## CFLBob (Jul 29, 2020)

By the way - I thought I'd report back that since I did the thermal expansion/contraction trick mounting my drill chuck, it has not dropped off once.  I've made a few parts in the mill.   Roughly three dozen operations, which I consider opening & closing the chuck on different cutters.   It's a noticeable improvement.


----------



## jack620 (Jul 29, 2020)

Thanks for reporting back Bob. I'm glad it worked for you.


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 29, 2020)

CFLBob said:


> By the way - I thought I'd report back that since I did the thermal expansion/contraction trick mounting my drill chuck, it has not dropped off once.  I've made a few parts in the mill.   Roughly three dozen operations, which I consider opening & closing the chuck on different cutters.   It's a noticeable improvement.



My two MT chucks have screwed in arbours- and are quoted 'Precision' from Rohm in Germany.
Again, they are keyless so no lost keys


----------



## Richard Hed (Jul 30, 2020)

terryd said:


> I wouldn't use engineers blue for marking out.  That is greasy mucky stuff used as a 'witness'  when fitting parts together, I'd prefer to use 'layout blue' which dries hard and quickly.


Whoa!  Didn't knowthere was a difference.  I will keep that in mind the next time I have to buy some--in about 10 years.


----------



## el gringo (Jul 30, 2020)

I am past 80tears old and my drill chuck hasn't fallen off yet (although it doesn't seem to hold its original warranty tolerances) Cant seem to make the expansion/contraction process work either☹
Ray M


----------



## goldstar31 (Jul 31, 2020)

el gringo said:


> I am past 80tears old and my drill chuck hasn't fallen off yet (although it doesn't seem to hold its original warranty tolerances) Cant seem to make the expansion/contraction process work either☹
> Ray M


I'm past 90 years and can't hold my original tolerances either

As for worn drill chucks, probably I should throw several of them out. I was reading George Thomas again about his measurements taken on his workshop ones. Like lathe chucks there are really no ways of overhaul.

I was getting sloppy oversize bores-- and having to do things over again and wasting time and materials.

Neither of which I have a lot of


----------



## packrat (Jul 31, 2020)

I have a Albrecht keyless drill chuck on my mill with a intergral R-8 shank made in Germany, not cheep but worth every penny....packrat


----------



## el gringo (Jul 31, 2020)

packrat said:


> I have a Albrecht keyless drill chuck on my mill with a intergral R-8 shank made in Germany, not cheep but worth every penny....packrat


Have you checked the TIR with a tool in it? I was not happy with mine, sent it back for new jaws and still not much improved.
Ray M


----------



## BobsModels (Jul 31, 2020)

Bob - good to see you are up and running.

I have an Albrecht keyless that I purchased brand new, also purchased an Albrecht R8 adapter for it at the same time.  Run out was worse than my Jacobs 14N it was supposed to replace, and worse than my Rohm.   I put the Albrecht chuck on a no name R8 adapter and got much improved runout.  Sent the original adapter back got a new one.  It was much better but still not as good as the $$ I spent.  Finally I started rotating the spot where I seated the chuck on the arbor, found a sweet spot where runnout was about .001 right at the jaw .  At the end of a 4" rod it was about .0015, which is in spec for an Albrecht (.04mm aprox .0016).  I am happy as I have done that before on arbors.  You would think Albrecht could get it right.

By the way for those who want to lap the two together - LOL.  You are going to need a setup that can keep the chuck center axis and the arbor center axis in line or you will get a nice wobble.  There is no way you can hold that chuck by hand on the same arbor axis, unless you are really good.  Tried it several times, so I am not good at it!  With a nice fixture got them dead on.

Bob


----------



## packrat (Aug 1, 2020)

Quote " Albrecht chuck on a no name R8 adapter and got much improved runout "

Buy the drill chuck with a  intergral R-8 shank and you will be happy with the run out, no laping needed...


----------



## BobsModels (Aug 1, 2020)

packrat said:


> Quote " Albrecht chuck on a no name R8 adapter and got much improved runout "
> 
> Buy the drill chuck with a  intergral R-8 shank and you will be happy with the run out, no laping needed...



Packrat 

As I noted that was an experiment while waiting for the replacement Albrecht Arbor and I had no intention of lapping anything in, as again noted not a very good thing to try.  When I finally got Albrecht supplier to send me a decent arbor there was no problem.  The reason I purchased separate parts they came out less on sale and my experience with integral Albrecht Chuck was less than satisfactory, they are not the end all.   I purchased a 3MT integral for my lathe and it was really bad, took three of them before I got one that I thought was decent.   I actually sold it one day to guy who came by my shop, as I just did not trust it.  

As I said if Albrecht had better "Q" control there stuff would fit together correctly.  If they are going to sell separate components they need to spec them out to different tolerances.  I have five small Albrecht chucks (less 5/16) on various arbors all of which I would not part with, super precise.

Anyway as I said I got the R8 combination to work just fine with no lapping or anything just put it together with a little testing.  I am very picky when it comes to equipment condition.  I want to know it is me screwing up -  not the equipment, I really do not like chasing two variables.

Again just my experience and opinions, clearly you have had much better experience with the integral product and are very happy with it.

Bob


----------

