# Colin Binnie's 'La Belles' for home construction.



## Tony Bird (Jul 5, 2011)

Hi

In May 2005 Colin Binnie started a thread in an egroup entitled;

La Belles for home construction.

Which started;

*A long while ago in a galaxy far, far away.

Well, about two months ago at Withington actually. I was watching a small loco belonging to Alan King circulating most charmingly with a train of tippers. And it looked right.*

The email goes on to describe a locomotive that he is designing. It was to be a simple small locomotive suitable for a beginner to tackle. The design was for a 0-4-0 based on an early Decauville 5-ton locomotive. It was to have a meths fired pot boiler with filler valve, to be powered by twin double acting oscillating cylinders, have lever reverse and a lubricator. 

There were to be three versions;

A 32mm gauge with inside frames known as La Belle Anne
B 32mm gauge with outside frames known as La Belle Barbara.
C 45mm gauge with inside frames known as La Belle Cheena

All versions were to have the same bodies, boiler, and cylinders, wheels etc. the only parts altered were those that allowed the different frame spacing needed. The over all width and length being the same on all versions.
The idea was that Colin would do the drawings for in his words no reward and others in the group would provide services such as wheel castings, make boilers, etched body and laser cut parts for those that wished to buy them.
Colin produced some preliminary drawings and answered a lot of questions from those who said that they were interested in make the model. Somewhere along the line there was a falling out among the group and Colin left. He was eventually persuaded to return but he did not complete the drawings.

I did not belong to this egroup and the first I knew about Colins incomplete drawings was after he past away in 2008. Someone in another egroup mentioned that it was a shame that someone couldnt finish the drawings, make one of the models, they had also included a copy of the drawings such as they were. Having made models to other peoples design as well as my own I thought I would give it a go. That was nearly three years ago and it has proved more difficult than I thought. I wanted to keep as close to the available drawings as possible. The following posts will show as far as I have got.

I expect that to many that might read my posts Colin Binnie will be unknown. He was quite a well-known British model engineer and had a company known as Binnie Engineering that made and supplied GRP components such as wheels, couplings and axle boxes to those that modelled in 16mm scale. He also produced a steam motor.







I will continue in the next post.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 5, 2011)

To continue with the drawings that Colin had made.
First the prototype.




Side view of proposed model.




Partially dimensioned side elevation of 'La Belle Anne'.




Partially dimensioned sections of 'La Belle Anne'.




Complete drawing of the boiler.




Partially dimensioned sections of 'La Belle Barbara' and 'La belle Cheena'




 So those are all of Colin's 'La Belles' drawings that I know about and I have read some of his emails about them but alas no further information.
To be continued.

Regards Tony.


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## cfellows (Jul 5, 2011)

Tony, that looks like a really nice project. I've been thinking about a steam powered vehicle for a while now and a locomotive was certainly on the list, but the Cracker seemed too simple and everything else is too complicated. This however, looks just about right. 

The engine layout is very similar to one that I had seen elsewhere and liked very much. I hope you are able to finish these drawings. I would love to see the finished product!

Chuck


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## Dan Rowe (Jul 5, 2011)

Tony,
Colin Binnie is very well known in the 16mm groups. I am a 7/8 scale builder so I sometimes read the 16mm forums.

I will be watching this thread with a keen interest many thanks for posting.

Cheers Dan


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## Tony Bird (Jul 5, 2011)

Hello again.
As the most complete drawing was for 'La Belle Anne' this was the one choosen to make. The boiler drawing was complete so a start was made on the boiler while sums and sketches were done from the other drawings. This is a very simple pot boiler but that doesn't mean that it is easy to make for a person new to boiler making. Because of its method of securing the boiler to the chassis, using an extension of the chimney as a bolt and its very large steam dome in is import that the tube through the boiler and the steam dome are in line for esthectic reasons. The steam dome has a very large bush which of course needs a very large hole in the boiler. This isn't that easy to create. It was done by boring while the boiler barrel was held in a jig bolted to a face plate on the lathe. Sorry didn't take a photograph. But did of the results.


















While making the boiler the sums and sketches were delt with which took a very long time. Remember this is supposed to be a simple locomotive to make for a beginner! I will have to sort out the drawings that were done and try and understand them again before continuing. The drawings alas will be in BP & FP format which might be a little difficult for people used to CAD. It could be a few days.

Regards Tony.


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## metalmad (Jul 5, 2011)

I'll be watching this one
I was thinking of a Cracker as my first Steam engine, but as Chuck said, this looks very promising.
Pete


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## cfellows (Jul 5, 2011)

Interesting stuff, Tony. What are the dimensions of the boiler tube? Also, any speculation on why the steam dome is so large?

Thx...
Chuck


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## gbritnell (Jul 5, 2011)

I'm sorry guys but I don't get any pictures.
gbritnell


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## Dan Rowe (Jul 5, 2011)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> What are the dimensions of the boiler tube?



Chuck,
The print says 35mm so 1.25" copper tube is the closest at 1.375" OD

Dan


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## arnoldb (Jul 5, 2011)

A VERY interesting project Tony 

I've come across a lot of references to Colin Binnie and some references to the plans he'd started to draw up, though I couldn't find any more information on it...
So Thank You; I'll be following along!

One thing about the design caught my attention; there does not appear to be a way for gasses to travel from the firebox to the chimney - I'm curious about this, as I've not (in my very limited research) seen this done.

This should be a nice project for anyone wanting to build a locomotive; I've built an Idris from Dave Watkins' plans as my first "16mm scale" locomotive - and to be honest, while it is a runner and I'm quite proud of it, it's not a "good" runner as I simply didn't have the skills needed to make it just that - it does need a bit of experience. The Cracker is a good design for a first loco, but it lacks a lot of detail in the published plans that a first-time builder needs, though it leaves itself open to personal interpretation. 

GBritnell, the photos are showing up just fine, and it looks like Tony is using Photobucket for them... Have you tried to hit "Refresh" in your browser?

Kind regards, Arnold


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## Tony Bird (Jul 6, 2011)

Hi,
I'm still trying to understand the various drawings I did a lot of them are R&D which I should have disposed of. Still I think I might be getting there. In the mean time some answers.

*Interesting stuff, Tony. What are the dimensions of the boiler tube? Also, any speculation on why the steam dome is so large?*
35mm OD x 120mm long about 1.3/8" x 4.3/4" in old money. Though it is small being a 'Pot Boiler' means that it holds quite a lot of water so should run the locomotive for a reasonable period.
A large steam dome with its safety valves is a prominant feature on the prototype. Colin doesn't use it to collect the steam he uses a smaller fitting further back on the boiler.

*One thing about the design caught my attention; there does not appear to be a way for gasses to travel from the firebox to the chimney - I'm curious about this, as I've not (in my very limited research) seen this done.*
The exhaust gases go around the boiler almost along its full length there being a sheet metal casing that goes from between the frames to the top of the inside of the false side tanks which helps guide the gases. The whole engine will get very hot I usually fit wooden buffer beams which helps to keep fingers cooler while lifting.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 6, 2011)

Hello again,
There seems to be a limited amount of easy typing space? Anyway to continue.

*This should be a nice project for anyone wanting to build a locomotive; I've built an Idris from Dave Watkins' plans as my first "16mm scale" locomotive - and to be honest, while it is a runner and I'm quite proud of it, it's not a "good" runner as I simply didn't have the skills needed to make it just that - it does need a bit of experience. The Cracker is a good design for a first loco, but it lacks a lot of detail in the published plans that a first-time builder needs, though it leaves itself open to personal interpretation. * 

I don't think that 'La Belles' would be a good locomotive for a novice even with fully dimensioned plans as will become clear as my narrative progresses. I have built several models of 'Idris' (Dave tongue in cheek naming it after a mythical Welsh giant!) they work very well but have to be reasonably well made. I found having used the original meths then gas ring burner both of which worked but could be blown out in a wind but when they were fitted with a sealed ceramic there was a vast improvement in reliability and performance. The Cracker which I have made lots of are a very good first locomotive to build. They are quick to build work well and encompass most of the bits that a large locomotive uses. They do work better with a poker type gas burner rather that the blow lamp one on the drawings show.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 6, 2011)

Hi,
Cylinders.
While building the boiler the drawings were looked at and all the indistinct dimensions filled in. Most of the dimensions related to the centre distances of the components relative to one another rather than the sizes of the components themselves. Where possible the drawing was measured to fill in many of the missing dimensions. Then a start was made on my own sketches and drawings.
The major problem was the cylinder assembly it looked similar to what Mamod used on their locomotive. The steam transfer block between the frames used as a spacer, holes being drilled through the frames for steam and exhaust connections to the cylinder port block which was held to the outside of the frames with screws. This system requires that the steam transfer block and the port blocks be sealed to the frame. Mamod cylinders on a well used locomotive.






On closer inspection it isnt quite like that, it appears that the front buffer beam is screwed to the transfer block. So perhaps the two port blocks were to be attached to the transfer block and the whole unit was a frame spacer. This was the road I went down. The dimensions to be worked out were the bore and stroke of the cylinders, which was done by just measuring the drawing. There was a bit of an issue with the stroke and the length of the cylinder as drawn which still has to be resolved. With these dimensions along with the known centre distances it was possible to start on a drawing of the port face with its steam and exhaust ports along with their connecting passageways. Having done this, a drawing of the transfer block with holes for a reversing disc were made. Then there was a problem, how to connect the steam and exhaust passageways of the port blocks to similar on the transfer block. At this point as the sizes of the port and transfer blocks were know it was decided to make enough parts to make three complete units, optimist or what? Photo of one set of parts along with cylinder blanks.




 To be continued..

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 6, 2011)

Hi,
Cylinders continued.
Many different approaches were tried to find a way of getting steam to the cylinders. I will not go through the various ideas considered and drawn, just the one that was the first design tried which was later modified to one that I hope will work. I didnt do a modified drawing. At least I cannot find it if I did. Another two problems occurred, how the hold the port blocks to the transfer block and how to get a steam tight joint between them. Just using s single screw to secure the port and transfer block together solved this. Their relative location and steam seal was attained by an extension of the steam/exhaust passageways using a tube fitted into the transfer block which located in the port block. Finally a smear of sealant will be use on the block faces before screwing down. The fist set on parts were used up checking that I could drill long small holes accurately enough to miss some holes and hit others. Im not sure how many holes there are in the three blocks but a lot many of which are blanked off to create the passageways. The holes for the most part are 1.8mm
Drawings that were modified.










The next mail will have photographs showing the parts made.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 6, 2011)

Hi,
Photographs. Scale 2.5 squares =1". The first attempt.












Second and one to be used. Cut outs to be on cylinders instead of port face and new position for steam and exhaust points.
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	











How cylinders attach to frames.









Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 6, 2011)

Hi,
The last bit of the cylinder assmble made so far the reversing disc.




The wheels have been turned.




And drilled for their crank pins.








Do a bit more later.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 6, 2011)

Hi,
The last photograph shows how far I had got until a few days ago. The next job was to fit the wheels to their axles in the frames. Colin had given no indication how he was going to do it. Locomotives with inside frames are always a bit of a problem in small scales because a way of separating the frames after the wheels are fitted is a good idea. One way is to square the end of the axles and have the wheels a slide fit on the squares securing them with screws in the axles a lot of work and this is to be a simply built locomotive. If the wheels are pushed onto their axles a way of removing them and their bearings from the frame by securing the bearings to the frames by a nut, a slot allowing the narrow axle out. A system I have used often.




Colin might well have intended this but I would have thought he would have drawn it into the frames. This was my best option until a few days ago. Then disaster! The wheels came loose on the Thomas the Tank Engine which is used on my layout and garden railway to entertain kiddies of all ages. Thomas is a childs toy which I fitted a chassis to to run on '0' gauge track and I had used a set of Colins push-on GRP wheels.




To be fair the electric motor used is a bit OTT regarding power so if something jams the wheels or coupling rods the axles revolve in their wheels. So some cast iron wheels were turned up but how to make them removable without having to make a new split chassis? Well they were fitted the same way I fit fly cranks with a set screw. One wheel on the axle a push fit and the other drilled for a set screw.




Running out of space again next mail.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 6, 2011)

Hello again,
Well thats it to date. Parts so far made.




Assembled.





Progress from now on will be as before slow (so far about 2 years) this is due to still wanting to think of how the cylinders with their pistons will be finished there is still a bit of an issue with sizes and other model distractions.

So until the next instalment.

Regards Tony.


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## shred (Jul 6, 2011)

Looks like you're getting there! I'm following along as it looks like a nice little loco to build someday.


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## cfellows (Jul 6, 2011)

Tony, what size track (gauge) will this engine run on?

Thx...
chuck


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## Tony Bird (Jul 7, 2011)

Hi Chuck,
La Belle 'Anne' is gauge '0', 32mm or 1.1/4" which is the gauge of my layout and garden railway, it is also the most complete of Colin's drawings. La Belle 'Barbara' is the inside frame G1 version, it's overall length and height is the same as the other two versions but its an 1/2" wider to accommodate the larger gauge.
Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 8, 2011)

Hi,
Having finished another project I had some time so spent an hour or so on the locomotive. First lapping the cylinders.









Then making and fitting some front cylinder covers.




New trunnions were made for the cylinders along with a long piston and rod to aid lining up the cylinders with the crank pin and coupling rod.





Regards Tony.


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## Gedeon Spilett (Jul 8, 2011)

Hi Tony,
a pretty little loco and a very nice built that you are describing now.
I agree that having removable wheels is a must but a hole through the wheel tyre!
May I suggest a longer set screw that comes right to the surface and mask somewhat this hole.
I use sometimes a cylindrical nut to fix wheels on threaded axle, a less conspicuous result IMO. 
an interesting topic as usual with your posts.
cheers
Zephyrin


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## Deanofid (Jul 9, 2011)

'

Nice project, Tony. As someone familiar with your write-ups, I see the same attention to detail
I've come to know in your builds. All well done.

Don't know why you're having trouble with the length of your posts. I don't know of a limit for the
size of the post on this forum, and have done many myself that had 10-15 pics and lots of words.

Dean


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## Tony Bird (Jul 10, 2011)

Hi Dean,

*Don't know why you're having trouble with the length of your posts. I don't know of a limit for the
size of the post on this forum, and have done many myself that had 10-15 pics and lots of words.*

It is probably down to my ineptitude, if computers had calibrated hand wheels instead of keys I might do better.

The problem I have is when the typing gets a few lines past past the bottom of the box it will no longer show the line that is being typed. You can move the cursor down to see it but one key stroke and it disappears again. So when this happens I type blind and then move the cursor to see the results, but my geriatric brain can only handle so many lines. I can put with it if every body else can.

Hi Zephyrin,

I do intend to plug the holes in the wheels with something that can be removed to access the screws. I have used screw on wheels with a recessed screw to lock them but find them a little difficult to quarter.

Well no playing with machines today. Thankfully the heavy rain has stopped as we are to take Thomas along with other locomotives to entertain the public as our model club which has an open day today but I suspect the ground will be a bit of a quagmire.



At this point I am typing blind.

Regards Tony.


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## metalmad (Jul 10, 2011)

Hi Tony 
I get the same thing
sometimes I end up with displaced pics and such cos I can not see the next line
Thank u for reporting it, cos its very annoying. :bow:


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## cfellows (Jul 10, 2011)

I used to have the same problem, but it's not happening anymore. I think it probably has to do with the browser. My problem may have been fixed when I upgraded to IE9. For a while I was composing my messages in notepad or word, then just copying and pasting into the browser. Have you tried using a differen browser?

Chuck


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## Tony Bird (Jul 17, 2011)

Hi Chuck,
*I used to have the same problem, but it's not happening anymore. I think it probably has to do with the browser. My problem may have been fixed when I upgraded to IE9. For a while I was composing my messages in notepad or word, then just copying and pasting into the browser. Have you tried using a different browser?*
Many thanks for the information but my computer skills are limited. I will wait until our son visits who knows about these things to see what can be done.
I had an hour or so while the wife was away shopping. So started on fabricating a flame guard for the boiler using some recycled sheet steel.





























Might get a bit more done tomorrow.
Regards Tony.


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## steamer (Jul 17, 2011)

Tony Bird  said:
			
		

> Hi Dean,
> 
> *Don't know why you're having trouble with the length of your posts. I don't know of a limit for the
> size of the post on this forum, and have done many myself that had 10-15 pics and lots of words.*
> ...




I have the same issue Tony...I'll just have to update my browser like chuck did

Dave


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## Tony Bird (Jul 19, 2011)

Hi,
Finished making the flame guard today.
























Not sure what I will make next, possibly the burner. At the moment the locomotive is very nose heavy and the burner will help to balance it. I still expect to have to ballast the rear of the locomotive to get equal weight on each wheel.
Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 20, 2011)

Hello Again,
Started on the burner but not before painting the flame guard with VHT paint and curing it in an oven. Best done when the domestic authorities are away.




To get some weight to the back of the locomotive the burner's meths tank is being made from thick wall square section brass tube rather than being bent up from brass sheet. Colin as far as I know didn't make any meths fired locomotives only ones using gas. He acknowledges in his writings that the burner is to someone else's design. The tank can be filled from either side the filling tube not being used is the vent to allow air out. I have made many meths tanks but not for a long time. I prefer a filling system that allows the removal of meths and the tank fitted with an over flow pipe. With a full tank of meths as the tank gets hot which it does the meths expands can flood the burners and catch fire, youngsters watching will be entertained but it does little for the paint work. With the tanks I make the filling tube goes to the bottom of the tank so if you suck back with the syringe you can empty most of the meths from the tank. The tank is also fitted with an overflow pipe that drains well out from the back of the locomotive. In use the tank is filled using a syringe until meths comes out of the over flow pipe and a couple of cc's are sucked back out of the tank, this reduces the chance of fire. A photograph of one of my tanks as fitted to a Mamod locomotive replacing the fuel pellet tray.




I will continue in next post.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 20, 2011)

Hi,




I'm sorry I have made the photograph a little small. The photograph shows the burner with its tank. The small pipe coming out of the side of the tank is the overflow, the pipe coming out of the top of the tank is for filling. It has three burner tubes the centre one capped as the two others produce enough heat. There are also two heat/draft shields fitted to the meths supply tube. Photographs showing the progress made today on making a meths tank.








































I will post some more later in the week.
Regards Tony.


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## arnoldb (Jul 20, 2011)

Coming along well Tony 

I like your tips on the filler and overflow pipes for the meths tank; definitely something to keep in mind - thank you! I've learned the hard way that spilled meths and tracks with plastic ties don't mix well either :

Kind regards, Arnold


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## xo18thfa (Jul 22, 2011)

Great job Tony. Colin Binnie was one of the greats in the Gauge 0 and Gauge 1 business. Yours will be a great running engine.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 23, 2011)

Hi,
Continued work on burner. K&S brass and copper tubes are used being silver soldered into the tank. Photographs of work done so far follow. While waiting for the tank/tubes to clean up in the pickle thoughts went on to the next part to be made, possibly the chimney which also holds the boiler to the chassis. While looking at the drawings it was noticed that Colin had intended that there would be no regulator the speed/forward and reverse being controlled by the reversing lever. The incomplete drawings show the position of the reversing lever but not how it would be connected to the reversing disc. Given the design of the locomotive this might effect the size and position of the meths tank which Colin might have had to alter. So work on the burner will cease for the moment while thoughts are directed at the reversing assembly.
















Might be some time before the next post!
Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 23, 2011)

Hi,
Had a play with some drawings to see if I could come up with a way of connecting the reversing lever to the reversing disc with out getting in the way of the burner and didn't get anywhere. I felt a bit like a traveler on asking directions being told that if you want to go there don't start from here!
So I decided to fit the footplate to see if that helped with the ideas. I normally fit flame and wind guards to the burner but decided to fit them as stretchers for the frame and one could be used to secure the footplate, the other to hold the front end of the burner. The burner would then be easier to remove for adjustment. Work done today follows. Still no ideas yet for the reverser connection.










































Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 25, 2011)

Hi,

I think I might of found away of connecting the reversing lever to its disc. First it requires making another reversing disc. Photographs follow.




































Sums now need to be done to work out the lengths of the levers required.

Regards Tony


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## metalmad (Jul 25, 2011)

Great work Tony 
keep it up :bow:
Pete


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## Tony Bird (Jul 25, 2011)

Hi,
A mixed day playing. Decided to rough out the reversing stand and lever which turned out quite well until I fitted the boiler! A bit of an issue, the stand is too far foward, Colin hadn't drawn a plan so something will have to be worked out. Wooden buffer beams have been fitted to protect fingers while operating the locomotive. Photogrphs of work done today.

































Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 27, 2011)

Hi,
Yesterday made the connecting lever and resolved the issue with the reversing lever stand touching the boiler. Started with bending some sheet steel to make a piece of 10mm angle. This angle was then worked on using a piercing saw and file to make the connection between the brass pins fitted on the reversing lever and the reversing disc. There were a couple of possibilities to resolve the issue of the reverser stand and the boiler. Move the stand outwards which would make the connection of the lever and disc a bit more unsightly. Move the stand backwards were it would partially block the door way. Colin might have re drawn. I decided to bend both the reversing stand and lever, I'm sure there will be a prototype president somewhere, there usually is with narrow gauge locomotives. Now back to the burner I think. Photographs and a video follow.





















VIDEO



















Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 28, 2011)

Hi,
Before starting on the burner I decided to tidy up what has been done so far and also fit some simple couplings to the buffer beams. The burner is completely new with a slightly smaller tank than the previous one. The construction is the same only having two filler tubes as Colin had designed. These tubes canl be used to empty the tank and an overflow is still fitted. The burner is designed to be easily and quickly removed to adjust its wicks, It is held in place with a screw through each frame going into a tube that goes through the burners tank. The front end of the burner is supported in a hole in the front stretcher cum draught/flame guard. Following some photographs of the progress. Tomorrow should see the burner finished.






















Regards Tony.


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## cfellows (Jul 28, 2011)

Sure do like what you're doing here, Tony. Glad to see you staying with it... something I have trouble doing these days...  :-[

Chuck


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## Deanofid (Jul 28, 2011)

Great work, Tony. I sure like how the reversing lever turned out. Pretty slick.

Dean


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## Tony Bird (Jul 29, 2011)

Hi,

Managed to finish the burner today, worked OK but wouldn't suck back. Then realised that air was entering through the other filling tube. Solved problem with a cocktail stick. I will have to leave it filled up or redesign. The burner will need tweeking but that will be done when the locomotive is working. The burner will run with 3 tubes lit for 5 minutes hopefully only two will be needed. A blanking off tube has been made. A gas burner will probably be made for it as a lot of exhibitions do not allow meths fired locomotives. While the burner was in the pickle a start was made on the coupling rods.









































Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jul 30, 2011)

Hi,

Did some further work on the coupling rods today. A lot of the day was taken up in preparing for tomorrow when I am operating the garden railway at my Model Engineering Society the rest of the GR members are on holiday so if anyone in South Wales tomorrow wants a crash course on operating small steam engines let me know! Following photographs show the making of the coupling rods whose bosses still need to be finished. The video shows the first steam run of the locomotive, perhaps steam tow would be more accurate.








































VIDEO.




Regards Tony.


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## Deanofid (Jul 30, 2011)

Who's pushing/pulling who, Tony?  ;D


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## metalmad (Jul 30, 2011)

Love it Mate
my little boy got all excited and was pointing at it on the track saying "Adduh Adduh"
I beleve that means he likes it :big:
Pete


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## shred (Jul 31, 2011)

Cool.. This is a great thing you're doing, bringing those plans all the rest of the way to completion. There's not much out there in little easy to build locos.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 6, 2011)

Hi,
I decided to make another burner with a larger tank I knew that if I didn't do it now it wouldn't be done when the model is finished. The burner made had be tried out on a Mamod locomotive which has a similar size boiler and larger cylinders. The burner performed well with two wicks being used, so the new burner will only have two wicks. The construction of the new burner is the same as the other except for the tank which is folded up from thin copper sheet. As the chassis was apart the screws were shortened to their correct size. The new tank required another frame spacer to be made to give it extra lengthg as well as height. Photographs follow.



















































Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Aug 8, 2011)

Hi,
Well its just over four weeks since I started on this thread and I will now have to finish due to holidays and other commitments. With luck I should be back to it come the beginning of October maybe even this year. I am reasonably happy with my progress but wish I had made less of the parts more than once. The following photographs show the coupling rod ends being finished using hardened steel filing buttons. The finished burner which runs over 15 minutes on a filling. I'm glad I bothered to make another burner because as well as its longer running time the original tended to leak back through its filling tubes when the locomotive was tilted sideways a bit. The last photographs show the jigs and formers so far made. The last photograph show my R&D efforts, scrap really but after so much effort R&D sounds better. 














































Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Dec 30, 2011)

Hi,

I said that I might get back to this thread in October or maybe this year. Well this year is just managed! Domestic engineering and refurbishing a 5" gauge steam locomotive have taken up time.

This Post Reply had a

Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new post.  

before continuing what is the best thing to do? 

Regards Tony.


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## steamer (Dec 30, 2011)

Just keep going Tony....It'll let you....doesn't bother me a bit.

Dave


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## Tony Bird (Jan 8, 2012)

Hi,

Just after my last post the computer decided to go wrong, had it back repaired yesterday. So now a fair amout of progress has been made on Colin's locomotive. There are now quite a lot of photographs to go through. This is how the locomotive was left early last August.






The next job to be tackled should be finishing the pistons and cylinders but still have a bit of and issue of trying to get a 14mm stroke into a cylinder 22mm long. So took the cowards way out and started on something else. The water filler valve and lubricator which are of similar construction was chosen. The filler valve was the first to be made. I hope the following photographs show the means of its construction.



















































I will post more photographs after they have been sorted out.

Regards Tony.


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## metalmad (Jan 8, 2012)

Looking great Tony 
keep it coming :bow:
Pete


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## bearcar1 (Jan 8, 2012)

Just keep on rockin' TB, older threads that have been dormant for a while and are picked up again just gives an excuse to revisit it and any interest is rekindled once again. I'm not an admin, but I don't believe the members will mind one bit. Some nice work you have going on there.

BC1
Jim


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## arnoldb (Jan 8, 2012)

Great to see you back at it Tony Thm:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## Tony Bird (Jan 9, 2012)

Hi,

Next three of the six banjo fittings were made.









































I will try and down load some more photographs later today.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jan 9, 2012)

Hi,

Managed to resize photographs of making the filler valve.


































































Any questions please ask. Hope to do some more tomorrow.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jan 10, 2012)

Hi,

I have managed to process all the photographs taken so far. They will be posted not in the order that they were made and there will be a couple of posts to break them up. Starting with the chimney, still avoiding making a decision on the pistons.







































































Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jan 10, 2012)

Hi,

To continue. Lubricator.
































Nut for double banjo fitting.


























Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jan 10, 2012)

Hello Again,

Couldn't do any more without making the piston and finishing the cylinders






















Sorry very poor video of first steam run yesterday.





 Reasonably happy with the run, when using its own boiler the cylinders will be warmer and the steam hotter so should be easier to start. Need to make a new footplate for the cab as the one made is too short. This will be done before trying the locomotive out on the track as it can only be fitted with the boiler off.

Regards Tony.


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## shred (Jan 10, 2012)

Very nice! Will be great to see it run on some track soon.


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## Tony Bird (Jan 20, 2012)

Hi Shred,

La Belle Anne ran on my test track yesterday. Alas the weather here in Old South Wales was very damp and windy. When the locomotive ran into the wind the burners were blown out. Hopefully the fitting of the smoke box and side tanks will stop the wind blowing down between the frames and doing this. On the bench the locomotive runs OK but still a few things to tweek before starting on the body.

Video





Regards Tony.


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## Busted Bricks (Jul 6, 2021)

Tony, was this ever completed? If so, I'd love to see a picture of it.


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