# Rattler



## metalmad (May 2, 2011)

Hi Guys
now the Sow is running well I guess its time to start another build.
This time im building the rattler by Dave G.
It may be a rocky start as i dont have much in the way of material yet, but I will post it as I go


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## stevehuckss396 (May 2, 2011)

Whats a rattler?


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## metalmad (May 2, 2011)

Hi Steve
How are the plans coming ? :bow:
The Rattler is a gearless, single, 4 stroke Hit and Miss, designed and built by Dave G.
It is a unique little engine and Dave has kindly allowed me to test his plans (believe me if I can build it, just about anybody can :big
He tells me he has tried to make the building of the engine as simple as possable, but as I have not really got into it very far, I will not say too much other then, my DRO is gunna get a workout on this one!!
As with my last build, please comment if I do something wrong or even if u just feel like it.
I am a novice trying to learn how to use my equipment and my choice of projects, reflect my love of motors both large and small.
Pete


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## metalmad (May 2, 2011)

daves engine by metalmad2011, on Flickr


This is Dave's prototype, But its a good bet mine will not look exactly like this
I like to add my little bits of expression to my builds. eg my decision on my last build to change the bearing caps and add a under engine fuel tank To the "Sows Ear".


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## metalmad (May 2, 2011)

daves engine2 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
here is another pic of Dave's prototype engine
I guess u understand why I want to build it 
nice huh


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## Dave G (May 2, 2011)

Hi guys, A while back I posted photos of my gearless engine and I have since named it the Rattler. Also I have posted in Tricks and tips the making of the crossover cam for this engine. The Rattler name came about because the engine has a definate rattle to it when running. The hit-miss governor is on the end of the crankshaft and wiggles as it is running and looks like a snake rattling it's tail. Shelby has his Cobra, Iaccoca has his Viper and I have the Rattler,LOL. Anyways I thought it would be best if I could get someone to build the first engine from my plans before making them available to the public. This way we could correct any mistakes in the plans. Pete has kindly accepted the challenge of the first build and I thank him for this. I hope all goes well. This is my first attempt at documenting one of my engines so there will be mistakes and I want to make sure the plans will lead to a running engine when finished. 
 I will be following along with Pete's build and will be here for any support if needed. I could have done the build myself but I thought it best if someone else be involved, sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees and I could have easily overlooked something important. This way, if there are any roadbumps, we will find them now and not later. 
 I tried to design this engine with the novice in mind, including machining instructions and tips in construction. We will soon see how well I did. Hopefully all goes well and maybe soon there will be another engine to add to the list. Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (May 2, 2011)

Thanks for the info. That is a very nice looking engine. Great design Dave!!


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## Dave G (May 2, 2011)

Thanks Steve, In case you haven't put two and two together yet, I'm the guy who sat behind you and your wife at Zanesville last year. Dave


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## stevehuckss396 (May 2, 2011)

Dave G  said:
			
		

> Thanks Steve, In case you haven't put two and two together yet, I'm the guy who sat behind you and your wife at Zanesville last year. Dave



I'm not all that good at math!!


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## Dave G (May 2, 2011)

That'll be me and my beautiful better half, and no, she doesn't have a beard. And Steve, you need a camera that makes me look younger. Dave


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## metalmad (May 3, 2011)

Hi guys 
its pouring rain here today so I spent some time in the Shed.
That old lathe may not look much but it sure bores a nice hole,I left it .995 to allow for a hone to one inch but its so nice I'm not sure ill bother.



SANY1605 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1606 by metalmad2011, on Flickr

Pete


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## arnoldb (May 3, 2011)

;D Good to see you right back at it Pete - great looking parts so far.

Looks like the engine-building bug's bitten you bad :big:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## b.lindsey (May 3, 2011)

I was wondering what a "rattler" was as well, so thanks for the pictures. Thats a nice design and I will be following along with great interest.

Bill


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## Dave G (May 3, 2011)

Looking good Pete. Is that a Colchester lathe? If it is ,then I'm jealous. Dave


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## metalmad (May 3, 2011)

Hi Dave
nothing so glamorous I'm afraid ;D
its a 20 year old "Shun Shin" from Taiwan, but it is auto feed and the ways are still good.
I need to make or replace the carriage Nut, sooner rather then later, to remove all the slop, but until I start threading its not really a problem.
one day I will paint it and make some nice handles for it, but to learn on I don't think it can be beat ;D
some very nice features are, the dials are graduated in both metric and Imp,and the Carriage Dial shows the radius not the diameter(so what u set u get) and I'm almost sure that 20 years ago the 3 jaw was self centering LOL.
Hi arnold 
thanks mate its good to get back on the lathe again as the fiddly bits on the Sow was driving me insane LOL
Hi Bill 
I was just thinking, one thing Dave should have in the drawing set is an assembly drawing so I could work out where everything goes. eg where do the points go ?
I'm just starting to appreciate how different this motor is from my two other builds,for instance the spark event is on the other side of the valves from the combustion chamber.


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## Dave G (May 3, 2011)

I wonder if these old machines knew they were going to have so much fun in their retirement. After working day in and day out and then being taken in by someone who really cares in their senior years, makes me need a tissue. Dave


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## metalmad (May 3, 2011)

The old girl has a history 
the company, the previous owner works for, got it off the RAAF in the tooling up phase for a military contract, that in the end they did not get,so it just sat until he bought it and then sat, till I bought it and brought it back to life.
Pete


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## Chaffe (May 3, 2011)

yet another intersting project i shall have to keep an eye on!


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## metalmad (May 3, 2011)

Hi Chaffe
Well yes it could end up entertaining ,I could easily end up falling flat on my face here :big:
Pete


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## Chaffe (May 3, 2011)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Hi Chaffe
> Well yes it could end up entertaining ,I could easily end up falling flat on my face here :big:
> Pete


def not! we all have faith here with you! get machining, and dont forget the camera! :big:


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## steamin (May 3, 2011)

metalmad, looking good thus far. That is a very interesting engine with lots of opportunities to put your personal touches to it. By the way, you might want to take a little more out of the bore of the cylinder sleeve. 0.010" is quite a bit to hone out. I use to do a lot of honing and 0.001" to 0.002" was gracious plenty enough especially on a small bore such as you have. Keep up the good work and I will be following your progress.


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## metalmad (May 3, 2011)

Thank u Chaffe for your support I find it a big boost so early in the build when I'm still trying to find my feet 
Hi Steamin
maybe your right, but I think id be scared to put er back in the 4 jaw now.
I will give it some thought and maybe just a bit of a hone and make the piston to suit :big:
The cyl bore is .995 not .990 ( i wrote the same thing on Madmodder and it did not click till just now )
Pete
PS The bevel on the front of the cyl makes it look thicker then it really is


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## metalmad (May 4, 2011)

Hi guys
I did a little more today and started the valve chest.
I had someone ask me where they can buy the plans, as a google search did not turn up anything.
This is a new design by Dave G and mine is only the second made, so its probably best if u ask him. 
( he replys on this post )



SANY1608 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




parts by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## Dave G (May 4, 2011)

Hi Pete, Looking good so far. I really admire your intestenal fortitude for taking on this project. I'm sure we all are aware of the difficulties of doing a project like this and hopefully everyone will be here to help. I know I will be. It's the first time around the block with this engine and there will be roadbumps. 
 As for plans, I have the component prints drawn with Turbocad, machining instructions, bill of materials, and purchased parts list. Once Pete has finished his engine and the prints are proven to be correct they will be available. This is my first attempt at documenting one of my engines so please be patient. For those that have done this, my hats off to you because it's alot of work. Because of the amont of time invested I will charge a minimal fee for the plans. Believe me, my goal is not to get rich from this and I think the info in the plans will be a good value in the end. 
 I tried to design this engine with the novice machinist in mind. It's a 4 stroke design with no gears. I'm hoping it will become a good first IC engine project for those interested or just something a little different on the shelf for those who have built before.. 
 Looks like Pete's off to a good start and I thank you Pete for everything you are doing. Dave


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## metalmad (May 4, 2011)

My pleasure Dave
I actually printed out the instructions tonight ;D
I am getting a bit confused with the valve chest, but I will try to get some more done tomorrow.
Pete


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## T70MkIII (May 4, 2011)

Pete, wake up and get back in the shed - I need you to finish up so I can buy a set of plans from Dave stickpoke 

All jokes aside, it's looking awesome so far, and I'm really enjoying your write up of the build. Keep up the great work.


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## metalmad (May 5, 2011)

Hi Richard
I really had a problem getting my head around this part and after drawing it and swearing at it I suddenly realised that I was expecting a round port for some reason and was not seeing anything but what I expected to see :big:
here we have the transfer port on one side and the sparkplug hole on the other ( I really hope I got that right LOL)



SANY1614 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



transfer port by metalmad2011, on Flickr



sparkplug hole by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (May 5, 2011)

If I get a chance I will bore out the valve block for the valve cages tomorrow.
i started to enjoy myself this arvo once I started to understand the part I was making.
Pete


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## Chaffe (May 5, 2011)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> If I get a chance I will bore out the valve block for the valve cages tomorrow.
> i started to enjoy myself this arvo once I started to understand the part I was making.
> Pete


All good feedback im sure, it will all be put to good use in prehaps modifying or adding drawings to help future builders


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## Dave G (May 5, 2011)

Hi Pete, looks like you have it figured out and yes the dwgs will be changed to help clarify. This is one of the more complicated parts to make and I wondered how good of a job I had done to describe it and it looks as though I should have spent a little more time on it. Your doing a good job and pointing out where the dwgs need more work will help us all. 
 By now, I think we all know how big of a challenge Pete has taken on with this project and I know I admire his courage in doing so. I only hope I don't have a mad Aussie at my door someday wielding an ax.lol 
 I wanted to increase my drawing skills with this engine and I have done so but there is still room for improvement. How much improvement we shall soon see. Keep up the good work Pete, Dave


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## metalmad (May 6, 2011)

Hi dave
I think Im starting to find my feet now after a shaky start
this arvo bored out the holes for the valve cages and all went well
tomorrow I will put the chest in the dividing head and drill and tap the carby holes and Sparkplug hole.
Im hoping to get started on the valve cages tomorrow too if all goes well!!
Pete



SANY1618 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1619 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1622 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## tel (May 6, 2011)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> My pleasure Dave
> I actually printed out the instructions tonight ;D
> I am getting a bit confused with the valve chest, but I will try to get some more done tomorrow.
> Pete



Again with the instructions? You becoming some sort of fanatic?


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## bearcar1 (May 6, 2011)

tel  said:
			
		

> Again with the instructions? You becoming some sort of fanatic?



 Rof}

Weez' don't neeed no stinking instructions !!  The last time I followed the instructions, what I was doing actually turned out correct on the first attempt. Go figure that ??? :big:

BC1
Jim


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## metalmad (May 7, 2011)

Hi guys
there are some of us who just need a bit more of a hand then others :big:
As with my other builds I start every part, with a, I hope I can do this attitude ;D
Oh by the way I finally got my choo choo train :big:



SANY1626 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1627 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete
PS 
should have cleaned the fingerprints off cos it looks nice on the bench )


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## arnoldb (May 7, 2011)

Coming along nicely Pete Thm:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## Dave G (May 7, 2011)

Looking good Pete. Watching you build the Rattler is uplifting experience for me, Dave


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## metalmad (May 8, 2011)

Hi Dave 
Well I sure hope, u have not misplaced your trust in me Dave, cos a year ago I would not have thought I could build a carby.
Here is my second in a few months :big:






carb body by metalmad2011, on Flickr



jet body by metalmad2011, on Flickr



CHOO CHOO by metalmad2011, on Flickr
I had help today ;D



Kev by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Dave G (May 8, 2011)

I can vividly remember my start into machining and how overwelming it was. Now I look back with great amusement at how I struggled with even the simplest of tasks that now I could do with very little effort. I'm sure you will feel this way soon also.
Keep up the good work and I think it is coming along nicely.

 As for the helper, I envy you a great deal being that mine grew up and I miss having him and her in the shop. Dave

 Oh, This struggling thing rears it's ugly head around my shop from time to time and sometimes I wonder if I should be building birdhouses instead. No offense to birdhouse makers intended as this was one of my fathers favorite activities.


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## metalmad (May 9, 2011)

Hi Dave
 When I first turned on the lathe I very neally shat myself 
But Im starting to get comfortable now 
anyway today I did a little more on the carby, but still need to tidy it up a bit tomorrow and make the valves etc 



SANY1638 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## Dave G (May 9, 2011)

Hi Pete, the carb looks great. Keep up the good work, Dave


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## bezalel2000 (May 9, 2011)

Hay Pete
 :bow: I can't wait to hear it running - I guess I'll have to be patient like everyone else.

Judging by the web around the joints in the carby it looks to be soft soldered - is that right?

Bez


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## metalmad (May 10, 2011)

Hi Bez
yep the carby is soft soldered, I presume the abundant heat sink on the combustion chamber and valve box as well as the cooling effect of the air and fuel and ample finage, keep it cool enougth so the carby does not melt, Well at least, I sure hope so :big:



SANY1639 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1640 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
I did not get as much done today as I had hoped, but here is the intake valve and in the pic u can see whats left of the dyna bolt I made it out off.(tough stuff)
Pete


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## metalmad (May 11, 2011)

Hi all
had A little problem today with the exhaust cage.
My dividing head is very tall and all I have at the moment to do the valve seat is a large drill and because my keyless chuck is also very long, I had problems getting a long shank drill in the chuck.
I decided to use my shorter keyed chuck that does not have a drawbar hole.
Well I guess U know what happend right.
Yep the chuck fell out while doing the valve seat. I know I can fix it but Its a complication I just did not need 




SANY1641 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (May 12, 2011)

had a break from the valves etc today and did some fins



SANY1642 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
once I got into it a bit I enjoyed it but I wasted an hour or so micking up the dividing head and then decided to do it in the lathe instead ;D
Pete


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## steamin (May 12, 2011)

Greetings metalmad, The engine is looking great ! Sorry about the misfire with the exhaust cage, but do not be discouraged. As long as you have learned something, the time has been well spent. Some machinist have told me, "well Larry, you can not do that way". I would go ahead and do it anyway just to see "WHY" it would not work. I echo Dave G words. The more you do (practice) the easier it will become and actually become second nature to you.

metalmad, I love the picture of your son in front of the lathe. What a special lad he is for sure. I too can remember when my kids would share time with me in the shop. I do have my 43 year old daughter with me now in my shop. She has a corner all set up to do her free lance graphic art design work.

Keep up the great work and I/we all look forward to seeing and hearing the "Rattler" running.


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## metalmad (May 13, 2011)

Hi Steamin
I can not wait til the boy can talk and help me with my projects,and I just hope he's not so clean like his sister :big:
Today I made the exhaust valve and faced off both valves to remove the parting off remnant and bring the head depth down to size.
I did not bother with a pic today cos I recon most people who would read this post would have seen a valve before :big:
Pete


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## metalmad (May 14, 2011)

Hi guys today I got a bit done. It might not look like much so far, but It took a while :big:
and the mill got dirty again ;D



SANY1644 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1645 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
With any luck ill get this part finished tomorrow.
Pete
PS
IF u look on page one, u can see this part on the prototype.It will be interesting to make


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## metalmad (May 15, 2011)

Got a little more done today



SANY1646 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1647 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Dave G (May 15, 2011)

Hi Pete, The pivot support looks great. It's one of the more difficult parts to make on this engine and was one of the more difficult for me to draw as well so I'm glad all went well. Pete found one missing dim for me on the dwg and that will be corrected. 
 I don't know about everyone else, but I'm having a blast watching Pete's and everyone elses builds on here. I'm trying to finish up a few projects around the house right now and am too busy to do one of my own builds but I have been working on a design I want to start soon. I'm anxious to do a build of my own and the associated posts that go with it. For now I will have to be content watching Pete's build of the Rattler and the other build posts. 
 Keep up the good work Pete and I hope everyone is enjoying this as much as I am, Dave


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## Dave G (May 15, 2011)

Hi Pete, I am posting a link to a video of the Rattler running, Dave

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HkXHshJRwU[/ame]


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## metalmad (May 16, 2011)

That runs just lovely mate :bow: :bow: :bow:
I just hope I can get mine to run like that!!
No Pics today as what I made, even thougth it took me a while does not look much.
I have a lot of little parts to make at the moment that hardly warrant a photo.
By the way does anyone have any pics of the "Mastiff" by L C Mason ?
Its a water cooled 4 cyl that im reading up on hoping to make it my next build.
Pete


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## Groomengineering (May 16, 2011)

Hi Pete.

Allan Roberts has a couple Mastiff pics in his gallery http://www.modelenginenews.org/gallery/roberts/ (photos 23 & 24) as well as a lot of other neat stuff. They are the only ones I've ever been able to find aside from the ones in Mr. Masons book.

Several years ago I began making a set of patterns for this engine but discovered I was in way over my head.  I'll have another go someday when I've had a bit more pattern making practice. 

Cheers

Jeff


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## metalmad (May 16, 2011)

Hi Jeff
Im looking at the Mastiff as a possable Bar stock engine, if I can not get castings as the engine looks very blocky, but would tidy up well I think.
I would be interested in buying your copy of his book if your interested. and have sent u a pm
Pete


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## Groomengineering (May 16, 2011)

PM recieved.


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## tel (May 17, 2011)

> I can not wait til the boy can talk and help me with my projects


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## metalmad (May 17, 2011)

Hi Tel 
I cracked up over that drawing  :big:
He has a lot to answer for I recon  ;D
Today I made the lifter, and together with yesterdays effort deemed it worth a photo :big:



SANY1651 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## Chaffe (May 18, 2011)

Ita all worthy of pics mate, dont be shy in taking several, no matter how trivial the part. Im still here watching


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## metalmad (May 18, 2011)

Hi Chaffe 
Are u sure ?
today i only made the roller for the lifter and then ran into a problem.
I had to buy half a carton of beer for a local boat builder for some scrap alli he gave me and thus my problem.
What to do with the other half ?
As I'm hard at work on this same quandary, as I type this, its probably not safe for me to go back down to the shed this arvo ;D
Pete (HiC),


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## tel (May 18, 2011)

Alright then - ship it on down to me and I'll take care of it - as long as it ain't that 4X.

The things I do for people! oh:


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## Chaffe (May 18, 2011)

I see the said problem, nothing wrong with a few beers, built many a car engine with the help of a couple of lagers!


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## metalmad (May 18, 2011)

If u guys get a move on, maybe there will be some left by the time u get here.
or maybe not :big:


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## metalmad (May 19, 2011)

another little piece in the box 



SANY1653 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## Dave G (May 19, 2011)

Looking good Pete, I'm enjoying the progress, Dave


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## metalmad (May 21, 2011)

Hi Dave
I Stuffed up today and picked up the wrong drill and drilled to tap 4-40 on the Gov trip instead of 2-56.
mornings work gone 
I did something fun to make myself feel better ;D
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5741933851/
A start on the Crankcase. (video)
Pete


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## tel (May 21, 2011)

Press fit or Loctite a piece of rod in the hole and re drill and tap it.


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## metalmad (May 21, 2011)

Hi Tel the part is soooooo tiny, I Think ill just remake it


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## Dave G (May 21, 2011)

Coming right along Pete, I can't wait for the thing to run. Dave


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## metalmad (May 23, 2011)

Well Dave U may have to wait a while the way I'm going the last few days 
Today I made the Spool and spindle out of Stainless Steel.
After making the spindle, I then drilled and reamed the Spool(Bobbin) I even lapped it in, 
so that the spindle had a nice sliding fit, after that I used my parting off tool to do the grooves and parted it off.
 part done 
I then noticed the spindle would no longer fit the bore of the Spool, so carefully put it in the vice and began to ream it again.
The parting tool must have coursed the bore to close up cos when I reamed it the dame thing broke
I guess the Spool has to be drilled,and reamed after doing the grooves and then parted



SANY1660 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (May 24, 2011)

Had a chance to remake the Spool this arvo 



SANY1662 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
This bit of Stainless was nothing like the last bit and was very very tough
Pete


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## metalmad (May 25, 2011)

another day another small step forward



SANY1664 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## metalmad (May 26, 2011)

Maybe I should start looking for a bigger box :big:



SANY1667 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1665 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1668 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
pete


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## bezalel2000 (May 26, 2011)

Hay Pete

Your pretty much past half way, by the looks.
How many bits are left to make before you can assemble? and make smoke!!

Bez


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## metalmad (May 26, 2011)

Hi Bez 
there are still a fair few little bits and pieces, but im hoping to get the block ends done or at least started tomorrow and sorta planing to really hit it on sunday and start the crank.
I recon by the end of next week it will start to look like a motor :big:
Pete
PS 
I sure hope it does not smoke too much


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## Dave G (May 26, 2011)

Hi Pete, Looks great. I'm enjoying your build a great deal. Dave


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## metalmad (May 27, 2011)

Hi Dave
I dont know if the Rat will run as well as yours does mate, but it is going to run 8)
even if I have to remake every bit in it :big:
Today I got one endplate done and locktighted in the bush.
I will leave it in the lathe till tomorrow and then bore the bush.



SANY1670 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1673 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## metalmad (May 28, 2011)

Here is the first endcap, the second is still in the lathe letting the locktight on the bush cure



endcap by metalmad2011, on Flickr
looking good for a start on the crank tomorrow ;D
Pete


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## tel (May 28, 2011)

Who are you calling a crank? ???


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## metalmad (May 29, 2011)

Hi Tel
  I wonder if i can get by without a Crank?
cos whatever that guy sold me the other day, I'm gunna need new bits etc to turn it  Obvously very Hi tensile.
I tryed shortening the tool and tightening those umbrako bolts on the twirly thingo mo bob and the tool still chattered. Then I put it in the Mill and melted a 3/8 bit trying to make a slot for the journal.



SANY1677 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1677 by metalmad2011, on Flickr

my poposed solution )




SANY1679 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (May 29, 2011)

SANY1678 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
it really has been a rough day :big:


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## tel (May 29, 2011)

Ran into the same problem today meself with a bit of stuff for a simple bush! Totaled a good bandsaw blade before I noticed and when I did get it gnawed off it flatly refused to be bored - even with carbide.

I'm still bushless! ;D


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## stevehuckss396 (May 29, 2011)

GBritnell gave me the heads up on "1144 stress proof steel". After working with it, it is the stuff. Try to find yourself a cut in the size you need and you will be converted like me. Strong but easy to work with and very little warpage.


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## Dave G (May 29, 2011)

I have found that 1144 SP is the steel for crankshafts but I don't know about it's availability in the UK and Aus. The plans call out for 1144 but I know of people using 1050 shafting also. I don't like CRS 1018 because it's to soft and doesn't wear well and has a tendency for warpage. By the way Pete, your Rattler is really taking shape now. Very nice, Dave


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## metalmad (May 30, 2011)

Hi guys
When I asked for 1144 SP the look on the guys face was priceless :big:
It turns out he had Bright or Hi tensile (take your pick )
I decided to keep going with the HT and using a very good quality half inch bit was able to take another couple of bites of the Elephant.
once Ive roughed it out I will put it aside for a few days to warp a bit 


SANY1680 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## metalmad (May 31, 2011)

Started roughing the main journal today
This material is a bit softer towards the center thank goodness :big:



SANY1682 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## arnoldb (May 31, 2011)

Coming along nicely Pete Thm:

Regards, Arnold


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## metalmad (May 31, 2011)

HI Arnold
Bet u thought it was a Candlestick holder didnt ya :big:


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## metalmad (Jun 2, 2011)

got a little more done and will take the mains down close tomorrow and then put it aside till next week when I plan on finishing to size.



SANY1683 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## tel (Jun 2, 2011)

Strewth! That will turn into a crank shaft if you ain't careful!


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## metalmad (Jun 2, 2011)

Crikey Mate its starting to look a bit like that ant it.
I better watch myself tomorrow :big:


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## Dave G (Jun 2, 2011)

Hi Pete, your crankshaft looks great. I think you have a good plan to let it set for awhile before finishing. I remember machining some parts as an apprentice once and upon returning to work the next day they weren't as straight as I left them the day before. Warpage does happen. A small suggestion from experience, I don't make the rod and piston until last, this keeps me from putting the parts together and fiddling with them before everything is cleaned real well. I damaged a piston once by playing with it in the bore before I should have. Just something to think about and I have made this a habit on all my engines I build. 
 I'm impressed by your progress and can't wait for the big day it goes bang, Dave


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## metalmad (Jun 3, 2011)

Today I roughed out the main shaft and am resting it now till Monday, and to think I used to throw out those broken Stump Grinder teeth. :big:
As I want to fit the Flywheel Monday, I thought today might be a good time to start one. :big:



SANY1685 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1684 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Im having a go at a Casting for the first time and am amazed with the Speed a flywheel can be made. :big:


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## tel (Jun 3, 2011)

A flywheel casting???? C'mon, 'fess up - where did you get it? The damn things are like unicorns around here (few and far between).


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## metalmad (Jun 4, 2011)

Hi Tel
The Flywheel Casting and the crossover cam were sent to me by Dave G.
He even offered to send me some stress proof for the Crank when I Started to get into trouble with the Hi tensile.
As it turns out the H/T seems to be turning out well, but I guess I will know how well on Monday.
Now is as good a time as any to say how Honered I am to be given the first build of this lovely and unique little motor.
For a Novice to be allowed this privilege, is for me a wonderful thing, Dave has been a "Tool maker" for something like 30 years or so and he knows his Stuff, He could have easily built it himself and done a much better job too. 
His Crankshaft on the prototype is a 3 piece job with the weights dovetailed onto the Crank. It did not even cross my mind to try it :big:
Pete


SANY1686 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 4, 2011)

That's starting to look like a Lister spare parts counter  :big:


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## steamer (Jun 4, 2011)

Great build....I'm still reading through, and am intriqued by the cam/timing mechanism.....looks to be gearless?

Dave


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## metalmad (Jun 4, 2011)

Hi Bez yea its starting to build up now, u should hear what the wife says about my parts everywhere :big:

Hi Dave
yep its a gearless Hit n Miss and uses a Crossover Cam, I will quote directly from Dave G about the Cam.
"The Crossover cam basically is a slot in a round piece that crosses over at one point and then crosses back over on the next revoltion. If you put a stylus in this slot it takes 720 degrees of rotation to get back to where you started. An exhaust cam is placed next to the crossover to allow a roller follower to ride up on the cam on one revolution but clears the cam on the next"
its a fancy 2/1 ratio mechanism
Pete


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## steamer (Jun 4, 2011)

OK!  Now I get it!  Thanks for explaination.

Dave


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## metalmad (Jun 5, 2011)

The installation of the Crank is a great day in the build of an engine and marks the point where parts become a motor.
 In anticipation of that upcoming event, I bolted the Block together today :big:



SANY1687 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## metalmad (Jun 6, 2011)

Before some bright spark asks why the Carby faces the other way now I'll tell u.
I was trying to work out how to use the "PCD" function on the DRO and was so wrapped up in start and finish angles etc etc that I just did not notice I got the D### thing 180 degrees out )
I will just make the exhaust go the other way and nobody will ever know :big:




SANY1689 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## steamin (Jun 6, 2011)

Pete, really look'in great. Will you be able to post some video when you fire her up ?


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## metalmad (Jun 6, 2011)

Hi Larry
I recon Its still at least a month off yet before its even close to the running stage but stay tuned.
I plan to put at least a couple of videos up as i did with the "Sow"(3) but before that happens there are a lot of little Governor parts to be made, mostly out of Stainles Steel, not to even mention piston and conrod ;D
Thank you for the assumption That it will run :big:
I hope to continue work on the Crank today 
Pete


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## Dave G (Jun 6, 2011)

Hi Pete, I was away from home a few days and am now getting caught up. Your build is really looking nice, the small parts shouldn't take too long to make and I foresee a running engine in the near future. As for the carb placement, we will just call this the south of the equator version. I didn't really think about it when I was designing it but it makes no difference which way it goes and it will make your version more unique. I'm really enjoying this and keep up the good work, Dave


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## metalmad (Jun 7, 2011)

Thanks Dave 
Its starting to get there, but still lots to do ;D
Ive had a vague sort of idea about a custom stand to put my mark on this thing and I think ive got some bits of alli that will suit, so I think, I will put all else aside tomorrow and see if we can make something a little better then an old paperback to sit the "Rat" on :big:



SANY1690 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## metalmad (Jun 8, 2011)

Well I didnt get time to start my Stand, as finishing off the Crank took a lot longer than I thought and I had to make a brass bush for the back endplate cos I made them both the same when their just not :big: Broching the woodruff key hole in the Flywheel was harder to get right than I thought too.



SANY1691 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1693 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jun 8, 2011)

not feeling too good at the Mo, so I did something easy,
Maybe getting the flu 



SANY1700 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1701 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 9, 2011)

Yaeh ! Getting the Flu is real Easy :big:


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## metalmad (Jun 9, 2011)

Hi Bez 
I was hoping for something a little more productive :big:


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## metalmad (Jun 11, 2011)

Feeling a little better today but I just can not get Warm 
got a little bit done



SANY1702 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1703 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1704 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1705 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## arnoldb (Jun 11, 2011)

Coming along Nicely Pete Thm:

Every bit helps ;D - I don't even bother to go to the shop when I have a cold or the flu...

And us blokes in the Southern Hemisphere have winter now... For the first time in my life that I can remember we had snow here in Namibia last week  - so no shop! Seems we need heat to work :big:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## metalmad (Jun 12, 2011)

Hi Arnold
Yes its been Freezing here and my Arthritis is playing up with the cold 
but I want the "Rat" Running in about a Month so I better get my act together :big:




SANY1708 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## tel (Jun 12, 2011)

Freezing there? In tropical Wolf ... Brisbane? Haul on down this way and I show you wot cold is.


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 12, 2011)

The last Winter I was in Bathurst I didn't feel the cold at all....

Froze me n***s off, the rest of me wuz just plain frost biting numb 

oxidize more carbon, lets warm the place up a bit


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## tel (Jun 12, 2011)

Rof} You sort-of get used to it after the first 40 or 50 years


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## metalmad (Jun 13, 2011)

Hi Tel
I may well drop in one day but it wont be durring this current Ice Age :big:

Hi Bez
I recon the upcoming pour will warm things up a bit in Brissy :big:



SANY1709 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1710 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1711 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1714 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jun 15, 2011)

Have not had much chance to get into the shed as much as id like but i got a little done.
I must admit I was a little worried about parting off an inch and a half of Stainless steel but slowly slowly and no worrys 



SANY1716 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1717 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Dave G (Jun 15, 2011)

Hi Pete, I see you have gotten to the governor weights. When milling the material away from the backside to form the arms that fit into the spool take a few cuts from one side and then alternate to the other side. This should help with distortion, these arms are quite small and flexible when getting to the finished size so as you get closer to size take less material off per pass. It will help to change to a sharp endmill also when finishing. Be careful and good luck, Dave


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## tel (Jun 16, 2011)

You're certainly ploughing your way thru it Pete - it's looking good!


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## metalmad (Jun 17, 2011)

Hi Dave
I bought a HSS 2 flute single Ticn coated end mill this morning and I must admit it cut the Stainless Steel well, but I found that possably due to the unequal flute sizes I had a lot of trouble holding a size during a cut.
I have not noticed this before with this mill, but it is still new to me, maybe the guy before me slaked off the jibs or something, I do know he did not oil them.
Tomorrow I will see if a normally fluted bit holds to size better.

Hi Tel 
Thanks Mate 
I really needed the support today 



SANY1719 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




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SANY1721 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jun 18, 2011)

Got a little bit more done on the weights, but they still need a fair bit of work in order to work the Bobbin properly.



SANY1722 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1723 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Dave G (Jun 18, 2011)

Hi Pete, The governor weights were the one component that gave me concern if I had done a proper job in describing them.
I see that you had no trouble in their construction and I am glad for that. I hope it was one of those parts that looked complicated before machining but once finished you would say well that wasn't so bad. I try to keep those kinds of parts to a minimum but every engine has them. You may consider yourself a novice machinist but I think your skills are much better than a novice. Keep up the good work and in your honor I will be taking a celebratory trip to the Outback Steak House and having a big steak when your Rattler comes to life. Dave

 Oh and by the way I like my steaks well done, just like your Rattler.


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## metalmad (Jun 19, 2011)

Hi Dave
What a wonderfull thing to say, Thank you very much for that.
But it is a little known fact that perseverance and just plain hard headedness can be almost as good as skill. :big:



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SANY1729 by metalmad2011, on Flickr

Pete


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 19, 2011)

Excellent work on the engine Pete :bow:  and

Your ingenuity for finding ways to prop it up for photos seams endless  :bow:

 ;D Surely, you must be starting to think "I'll have to build a stand next"  :big:


Keep up the good work!


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## metalmad (Jun 19, 2011)

Hi Bez
Thanks Mate
Yes I know it needs a Stand, but I have a sort of idea of what I want for that and don't have suitable stock for it yet, but do have the meterial for everything else :big:


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## metalmad (Jun 20, 2011)

Today I made the lockout lever's lever :big:
I have been dreading this bit for some time but it was not as bad as I thought ;D
I think thats the last Stainless Steel bit almost done :big: :big: :big:



SANY1730 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




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SANY1734 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jun 21, 2011)

I ended up making the lockout lever from Stainless as the offcut from the other lever was already to size on one Dim !!
the lockout has a hard spring steel plate that is bolted on with the two 2-56 bolts u see.
I have no idea how im gunna drill the clearence holes, I had a go at this part early in the thread, so tomorrow will be my second attempt at this bit.
last time, I drilled the lockout for 4-40 and had to scrap both bits.



SANY1735 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1736 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## ShedBoy (Jun 21, 2011)

Got to love stainless, keeps you alert, also causes alot of stress if you are anything like me. Engine looks great. Thought of a stand for that beauty yet? Would hate to see it fall over.

Brock


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## metalmad (Jun 21, 2011)

Hi Brock
I'm trying to make every engine I build a little bit harder or more complex then the last.
And mate in that I have succeded :big:
its starting to get quite complex now and The thought of doing something so mundane as the Stand is impossable at the moment ;D



SANY1738 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Dave G (Jun 21, 2011)

Hi Pete, Looks like you're making short work of all the small pieces. I used a #2 carbide center drill to drill the holes in the spring steel piece. The small dia of a #2 center drill is.094" and provides enough clearance for the 2-56 bolts which are .086" dia. A small carbide burr could be used also. You may be able to secure it to the mating part with 2 part epoxy instead of bolts but it does take a fair amount of abuse so I don't know how long this would last. The spring steel is trapped by the guide and supported by the trip so epoxy may be fine. The first trip I made was soft and it soon peened the edge over and wouldn't catch the ledge on the governor lock pin. I modified the design to use the hardened spring steel and have had no issues since. I think you could make the trip from O-1 steel and harden the whole piece instead of making it 2 piece construction and this would work fine. The trip and lock pin should be hardened steel as these see a good amount of impact when the engine is running and will soon fail if not. I hope this helps, Dave


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## metalmad (Jun 22, 2011)

Thanks Dave
Today I made the wear plate for the lockout lever and had a good look at my 2-56 clearence drills, both I had, were sharpend so badly from the factory that i'm surprised they would drill anything let alone hard spring Steel.
So after sharpening one by hand I had no trouble doing the holes.
The only 10-32 nuts I have been able to get have a huge, out of scale head so I bought some small metric dome heads and redrilled and tapped them for the cyl barrel.



SANY1741 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1742 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## krv3000 (Jun 22, 2011)

HI its cumming a long nicely don't no if you no this but their is drillbits made especially for drilling stainless steel dormer do them


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## metalmad (Jun 22, 2011)

Hi Bob
I did not know that and I'm sorta hoping, I never have to drill another bit of Stainless in my life :big:
unfortunately all my drills are very cheap and nasty, but I was rather surprised today how bad they were 
Pete


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## Rayanth (Jun 22, 2011)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Hi Bob
> I did not know that and I'm sorta hoping, I never have to drill another bit of Stainless in my life :big:
> unfortunately all my drills are very cheap and nasty, but I was rather surprised today how bad they were
> Pete



We're taught three basic types of drill bits at Boeing when we're in training, HSS, Cobalt, and Carbide. the latter two are used for titanium, depending on size of hole and user's preference, but titanium is expensive, so in training they have us drill stainless (which is actually harder). Here is what we learned in that class :

HSS can drill Stainless, but it's VERY finicky. Even with a brand new drill bit, chances are you'll break the bit 9 times out of 10 (in my case, I broke 40 before I got my first good hole, I'm told that's not uncommon). Once you learn the feel of the stainless, you get an idea of how much pressure and feed rate (VERY slow) to give it. Once you've got a pilot through (we pilot virtually every hole to .1285in , before bringing it higher) subsequent sizes go through much easier.

Cobalt is great for upsizing holes, but very fragile for pilots. Otherwise, same as above. feed and speed are key.

Carbide tends to be good for piloting, but overheats quickly if you upsize too much at once.

The trick to stainless, is that it work-hardens VERY easily. if you're not putting a constant smooth pressure on it, it'll work harden, and it'll be a real pain to punch a drill through it no matter how sharp or what it's made of. After my 40 bad drill bits, that one 'good' one got me 20 holes before my hand slipped on the drill and snapped the bit. Titanium is a bit more forgiving, but also requires VERY slow speeds, as the swarf can catch fire in a heartbeat if it gets hot enough. And it's almost impossible to put out a titanium fire with common methods.

In a Drill Press, I had much better success with stainless. constant pressure and a good slow RPM (350-500) and a good bit will chew through it with ease.

I'm not very familiar with how well it machines, but for drilling, there's my 5 cents. (i talk too much for it to only be 2 ;D )


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## metalmad (Jun 22, 2011)

Hi Ryan
Yes I agree Stainless does work harden easly and when drilling to tap 2-56, as I have been doing the last few days a good sharp drill is a must !!
One day I hope to get a nice big expensive set of drills but it will not be this week :big:
It machines much like it drills, u really need to take your time.
Pete


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## steamin (Jun 22, 2011)

Pete, a secret to tap in stainless steel is to use a slightly larger tap drill than the typical drill chart suggest. The chart will give you 75% thread contact which is way more than us modelers need. For threads up to #6 or #8, I go at least one drill size larger. Anything over that I will go two drill sizes larger. This gives around 50% to 55% thread contact and makes tapping stainless a whole lot easier.

If you feel that the stst is work hardening, then your speeds and feeds are to high and/or the tooling is not sharp. I have done a lot of machining of stst and I actually prefer machining it to any other ferrous materials.

Keep up the great work on the "Rattler". Looking forward to hearing it run.


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## metalmad (Jun 23, 2011)

Hi Larry
Thanks for That.
 I do kinda hope it will run, but I recon it will be a couple of weeks yet before I try to Start her. Ive got my fingers crossed :big: :big:
Did not get a whole lot done today, but a little progress every day is better then a lot one day and then nothing for a month LOL
The plans call for a .380 by .123 roller for the lifter but it just so happens I had a ball bearing of the same Diameter. I think it was .155 wide but doing a dry run it clears by heaps so it should be OK (I hope)
In the second pic u can see that the roller lines up with the cam and the Valve Cage Hole and the Stylus hole lines up with the slot the Stylus will run in (Thank goodness LOL) 
PS
always wanted Roller Rockers as a youngster on my 350 chev ;D



SANY1744 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1743 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1745 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jun 24, 2011)

Today I made the Spring keepers and drilled the valves after that I wasted a couple of hours trying to find the spanner I had just used 
still have not found it.
PS
 in the third shot I did a trial installation to get a sense of how its going together. I made both the lifter and the lock pin a bit too long so I can sneak up on the valve gap, at the moment the exhaust valve is held off its seat when it should be closed. The keeper pins I made out of the drill I used on the valve holes.




SANY1746 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




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SANY1749 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## bezalel2000 (Jun 24, 2011)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> I wasted a couple of hours trying to find the spanner I had just used
> still have not found it.



Start looking for something else! your bound to stumble across it )


Bez


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## metalmad (Jun 26, 2011)

Hi Bez
I found it 
I made the little ball for the governor bobbin today and started adjusting everything to get the Governor system working correctly.
It is just so close "but" still needs a little work.



SANY1750 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1751 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jun 27, 2011)

Went out all day to see Bez 
when i got home it was late and I drilled the exhaust hole (in the wrong place)
any damage is after the valve seat and I can drill the mount hole again to clear it.
its not what I wanted, but I dont think it will impact on the engine.




SANY1768 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## metalmad (Jun 27, 2011)

Ive never seen a exhaust pipe with a cotter pin before 
sort of adds character I recon :big:



SANY1769 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jul 2, 2011)

Hi all
Ive been down for a few days with a killer migrane, but am starting to get back in the saddle today
The first two pics are why Stump grinders teach themselves how to machine metal ;D
the next two are a start on the Cam stylus of the "Rat" out of a hi tensile bolt.
The best and last is one of the reasons, I still get out of Bed in the morning :big:



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## steamin (Jul 2, 2011)

Pete, thank you for sharing the last picture. The lad is a treasure for sure. He brings tears of joy to my eyes. Thanks.


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## metalmad (Jul 2, 2011)

Hi Larry
Thanks Mate 
Its his birthday today, 2 years old Wow
This morning I did some more work on the Stylus but its not quite right yet as its still hitting the lifter as it navigates the crossover.
There is a filed clearence for the lifter that needs a bit more taken off 



SANY1779 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1780 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1781 by [ur


SANY1782 by metalmad2011, on Flickrl=http://www.flickr.com/people/[email protected]/]metalmad2011[/url], on Flickr


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## arnoldb (Jul 3, 2011)

Coming along very nicely Pete Thm: - doesn't look like there's far to go now...

Regards, Arnold


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## metalmad (Jul 3, 2011)

Hi Arnold
Basically I only have the piston and rod Assembly's to go, so its close, 
But at the moment my first priory is getting my stump grinder back together.
If I can get the parts, I need to work on it first. 
oh and a Stand too :big: :big:


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## tel (Jul 3, 2011)

Happy Birthday Kev! th_wav


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## metalmad (Jul 3, 2011)

Thanks Tel
all the kids have just left thank goodness :big: :big:


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## metalmad (Jul 5, 2011)

Hi guys
I should get the parts I need for the Grinder tomorrow, so I started on a Stand for the Rat this Arvo :big:



SANY1787 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
PS
I have a 1/4-32 Tap on order, so when i get that, i'll think about making a plug too
Pete


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## zeeprogrammer (Jul 6, 2011)

Just finished reading this thread.
Very enjoyable and a great project.
I'm looking forward to the video.


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## metalmad (Jul 7, 2011)

Hi Zee
Thanks for the drop in and wecome back 
I Started both a Spark plug and the Con rod today but finished neither :big:
I made the electrode for the Plug out of the "Sow", from piano wire, but i'm thinking of turning down a small umbrako bolt( maybe a 4-40) so that the thread and electrode is one piece.
Last time I made the plug body out of Brass, and although the plug worked very well, I had to be very careful not to scratch it.
I hope this Sparks as well as the Brass one did.
Pete




SANY1788 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## the engineer (Jul 7, 2011)

wow looking good havent been able to check in lately most impressed it will soon be buzzing around 
awesome photo of the little lad thanks for sharing 
my grandson (five who lives with us) has blown the teacher away with his grasp of math and she asked the daughter how this could be and her answer blew me away
she said he has helped grandad in the shed getting his spanners and tools and has learnd to count the numbers on the spanners and has always asked can he put the numbers on the calculator for me 
so you never know just what is going on inside those little heads


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## metalmad (Jul 8, 2011)

Hi John
Thanks Mate,
That book on how to build the Mastiff is great !!
Glad to see your OK after all the earthquakes over there recently 
Today I made up a Dog to turn the con rod.
The .375 by .500 long turned bit on the end,
in the second pic,
will become the Small end of the Rod
Tomorrow I'll turn it around and do the shaft of the rod itself



SANY1789 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1790 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jul 9, 2011)

I missread the directions yesterday, the end bit is simply for the dog to hold onto :-[



SANY1792 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1793 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete


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## metalmad (Jul 10, 2011)

Today I started the Big end bearing set and drilled the oil hole for the big end.
In the second pic, u can see where the oil hole in the big end set, lines up with the center drill hole, which has a connecting oil hole drilled at 30 degrees.
He's pretty smart our Dave, I recon :big: 



SANY1794 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1795 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Dave G (Jul 10, 2011)

Hi Pete, It won't be long now. I like to oil my rod bearing before running with a small pin oiler. I have many hours on my Rattler with no bearing trouble so it must work okay. A small hole drilled into the endplates for the pin oiler to lubricate the main bearings would help also. The fuel gets oil mixed with it and seems to supply the cylinder walls enough lube. 
 Keep up the good work and soon we will all get to celebrate with you on your accomplishment, Dave


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## metalmad (Jul 12, 2011)

Hi Dave
I'm held up at the moment waiting for my 1/4-32 and 5-40 taps.
This morning I went and ordered them from another company, who tell me I can pick them up tomorrow!! ;D
I ordered and payed for the .250-32 last month and Today, enough was enough, 
The new supplier's price is approximately half as well. That combined with the next day service, had me demanding my money back this arvo !!


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## metalmad (Jul 18, 2011)

Hi guys
I did a little more on the stand today.
I had planned to have three cross bars per side, but that would mean 22 tiny 2-56 bolts and that may look too much. 
As it is at the moment there are 16, and I will leave it like that, at least for now



SANY1799 by metalmad2011, on Flickr
Pete
PS 
in the background are a couple of Bez's Wallaby Blocks, which will be my next build
I had intended to build only one, but well, ive got two Blocks u see :big:
Bez rules :bow: :bow:


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## tel (Jul 18, 2011)

Strewth mate, 2-56 tiny? Nah - now these are starting to get a bit small! Rof}


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## metalmad (Jul 18, 2011)

Hi Tel
I Have rules, I work by Mate
one is, if I can not see it, I wont use it :big: :big:
Pete


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## ShedBoy (Jul 18, 2011)

I have just recently bought a tap and die set which goes from 1mm all the way up to 2.5mm. Huge stuff. To be honest I am scared to use them, I wince and pray to the god of the shed when I use a 3mm. Dave that engine will be purring/ rattling son enough.
Brock


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## metalmad (Jul 18, 2011)

Hi Brock
Thanks for the vote of Confidence Mate 
I sure hope your right :big:
As far as itsy bitsy bolts go. I have poor eyes and Arthritis in my hands, so even if I could see em, I could not pick em up.
Not my idea of having a good time at all ??? 
Pete


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## bezalel2000 (Jul 18, 2011)

tel  said:
			
		

>



 th_confused0052 Hay! isn't that the fingerprint Abby was trying to match up on NCIS last week? 


 :hDe:


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## metalmad (Jul 19, 2011)

Hay Dano
The "unsub" is holed up in Bathurst, with a shotgun, a Molasses Pie, and a Steam engine, approach with caution :big:
Did a few little things today like, lap the valves and add a grub screw to the flywheel.
I sat it on the base I made for the "Sow" to see what it looks like.
They only need a box if your going to have a coil for each engine, so maybe I will go back to having one coil bolted on the bench.
Only problem with that is, I can only run one engine at a time : 




SANY1802 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## bezalel2000 (Jul 19, 2011)

Thm:

Now there's your next project! - cut a gear train to sync all your engines to run off one spark  ??? 

Bez


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## tel (Jul 19, 2011)

That's a fake fingerprint I put on for photographic purposes! Rof}


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## metalmad (Jul 19, 2011)

That explanes it mate
I just thought u had gotten your hands, too close to your Blast furnice :big:
 Not a bad idea Bez 
As well as saving money by having one coil. They would use less fuel too, with em hooked up together like that.
less noisy too lol


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## metalmad (Jul 20, 2011)

got a chance to drill and ream the con rod today.
after getting the bearings right, I had to go back and finish the block :big:
the 1/4-32 hole at 50 degrees is to oil the con rod and the 10-32 hole at the sump is the only way u are ever going to install the rod ( I know cos i tried lol)



SANY1803 by metalmad2011, on Flickr




SANY1804 by [url


SANY1808 by metalmad2011, on Flickr=http://www.flickr.com/people/[email protected]/]metalmad2011[/url], on Flickr


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## Dave G (Jul 20, 2011)

Hi Pete, looks like it won't be long now. I have enjoyed your build a great deal and I can't wait for it to run. When I built mine I went through the same thing, trying to get to the rod bolts and tighten them was a chore so I thought what the heck, just drill a hole for the wrench and be done with it. I left the hole open when running and the excess oil will blow out this hole making a mess of the base. An easy wipe up and all is well.                                            
 My Rattler has been together for 3 yrs now and after taking it apart to check for wear I found none. Everything looked fine so oiling the rod bearing this way seems to work fine. I oil the rod bearing and the shuttle pins and the crossover cam before I start it everytime. At shows, I will shut the engine off every half hour or so and relube. The one thing I found when apart was that the main bearings looked a little dry. These were made from oillite bronze and I figured they wouldn't need lubed but I may have been wrong. This was after many hours of running over a couple of years and they weren't wore at all but just looked dry. Maybe we should pull the sideplates off the crank every now and then and relube these bearings. I thought about drilling small holes for the pin oiler in the sideplates but there isn't much room to do this so I will just pull the sideplates off and oil them occasionally. I hope you have found this engine easy to assemble as it takes me about a half an hour to reassemble mine. 
 Keep up the good work and once you're finished I will need to find something else to occupy my time. I normally check your progress when I get up in the morning and I will miss this. I have 2 of my car projects finished now and soon I will be able to get started on another engine project of my own. Dave


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## metalmad (Jul 23, 2011)

Hi Dave
Thanks Mate 
Looking forward to seeing your new build,
Multi or single? It will be great to look over your shoulder for a while :bow:
Today I had a play with the spark plug.
I decided to go long shank and so started again, but when threading the insulator, I broke the first one.
The last few pics show a bit of thread in the end, but I cut it too short and its only a couple of threads in just for the pics :big: :big:
If I get a chance i'll install the electrode and thread tomorrow.



SANY1813 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1815 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1816 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1817 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1818 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Dave G (Jul 23, 2011)

Hi Pete, your sparkplug looks great. I haven't tried to build one myself yet as I bought a few years ago and haven't used them up yet. 
 My next engine will be a twin cylinder four stroke. It will have 2 overhung cranks attached to a 2:1 bevel gearset and the flywheel will rotate at half the speed of the cranks. There will be 1 exhaust cam to operate both cylinders and the intake valves will be atmospheric. This engine will be thottled governed and will operate at a low speed. I have been drawing some of the early details to check to make sure it will run, My first chore will be to make the gear case and all the bearing housings. It will be alot like a Ford 9" differential in construction. All the bearings will either be taper roller or ball with the rod bearings being needle rollers. I've been wanting to build an engine with low friction bearings sometime now and I think this will be it. I've accumulated all the bearings and gears and am sizing everything up now. I am going to use my sideshaft engine dimensions as I have already figured out the clearances for this and will not have to duplicate the engineering. 1.25" bore x 2" stroke. I found an old driveshaft counterweight I can use for the flywheel. It's probably going to be hopper cooled with each cylinder having it's own hopper. I think I have everything just about figured out now and am looking forward to getting started. This will be one of those projects that will probably be hard to follow at first. Once I get along aways it will start to look like an engine. 
 I have been trying to get all the loose ends of the Rattler plans done so when you are finished with your build the plans will be ready for sale. I still need to draw an assembly dwg and then I will be done. It doesn't look like I have much time left as you are about finished with yours. I figured I would e-mail the plan files to purchasers but I'm not sure how to conduct the money transfers as I have no Paypal account. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I don't want to release them until your engine is running.
 Well anyways, your rattler looks great and I can't wait for the video, Dave


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## metalmad (Jul 25, 2011)

Hi Dave 
your engine sounds wonderfully unique as I would expect from you :bow:
It looks like we both will be building twins next, which is scary, cos first multy for me.
After finishing the "Rat" I hope to build the Wallaby and then the Mastiff, before I attempt a V8 ;D
The last pic is the current state of play with the "Rat" but I'm hoping to try to start her by the weekend, depending on work etc etc.
PS The brass name plate on the barrel will say "RATTLER" with maybe a "002" underneath
Hope that's OK Dave?
It probably will be held on by 4, 2-56 bolts with the same spacing as the combustion chamber bolts



SANY1819 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1820 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1821 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Dave G (Jul 25, 2011)

Hi Pete, Your nameplate idea is fine. I guess I should make one for my Rattler 001. I think I will start the serial numbers for the plans at 100 so I can reserve the lower numbers for my own builds. I'd like to build a few as gifts for family. 
 So glad to hear you are almost finished. Your flywheel is lighter than mine that I made from barstock so it may not coast between hits as much as mine but it still should run fine. I have also completed the assembly dwg which should help in the building process. I have enjoyed your build a great deal and can't wait for that rattle, Dave


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## metalmad (Jul 27, 2011)

Did a few more of the little things needed before attempting to start her.
I bought some .54 piano wire and finished off the plug, locktighted in the cyl studs and bolted up the name plate.
The plans call for rings but I dont have a heat source to aneal rings as yet, if she will not run ok without em, I will buy a gas torch and remake the piston with rings.
Rings are a mandatory next step up for me anyway !! 




SANY1828 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## bezalel2000 (Jul 27, 2011)

Looking good Pete

You'll be burning fuel in a short time  8)

Bez


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## Dave G (Jul 27, 2011)

Hi Pete, I really like the spoked flywheel look. When I anneal my rings I use an oxy- acetaline torch and heat the ring and the fixture that spreads the gap to a dull red and hold it there for about five minutes. I let it cool slowly and normally the rings will fall off the fixture once cooled. Not too scientific but it works for me. I lightly sand the surfaces of the ring with 600 grit to clean them up after HT and install them on the piston and insert into the bore. After moving the piston up and down in the bore a few times I remove the piston from the bore and check the OD of the ring to make sure it has full contact. You can also install the ring without the piston in the bore then put it up to the light to check for light around the OD. I'm curious to see how well it will run without a ring, It may not need one, mine only has one ring. The engine should bounce back from the compression when lightly rotated against the compression stroke. That how I normally tell if the engine will run or not. With a ring on the piston the compression will get better as it wears in. It will need some bounce to it to get it run initially. If theres no bounce, it has a leak somewhere, valves, gaskets, or blowby the piston. 
 Having a little oil in the fuel may help with compression also. I've got a feeling that you will be fine just as you are. Good luck with the startup and I'm ready to celebrate. Dave


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## lordedmond (Jul 27, 2011)

if you smear them with soft soap the will not blacken and clean up easier

I get them up to a good carrot and hold them there for 15 mins cover with dry sharp sand and leave alone till next day , another way to achieve the end result 


BTW mine are used in 5 inch G locos so a different use for the same thing , I do not slit mine just tap them down a taper until they break , then finally fit them to the bore with a 10 thou gap 



Stuart


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## metalmad (Jul 28, 2011)

Hi guys 
I sure hope so Bez, Want to come over and hold the camera ? worst case happens, I make a fool of myself, but that has happened before :big:
I kinda like it too Dave, but I may put a pully on it yet 
I have a few bits I want to remake later anyway, but I really only need to grind the fuel needle and finish off the tank, before I can try to start her.
I have read about that soap trick before Stuart with heat treating, Do u just use a squishy bar of soap or maybe a hand Soap?
I will try it out when I have heat 
I wonder if a small map torch would work?
PS that boiler looks fantastic :bow:



SANY1830 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jul 28, 2011)

Started on the needle but have not decided on how to make the nob yet.
either brass or wood.



SANY1832 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1833 by metalmad2011, on Flickr



SANY1834 by 


SANY1835 by metalmad2011, on Flickrckr.com/people/[email protected]/]metalmad2011[/url], on Flickr


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## metalmad (Jul 29, 2011)

Well we have first pop
I started the rattler up a few times today, but at the moment its not running for long
as it has had no tuning at all and is just using some old chainsaw fuel I had in the shed.
I recon, its a good bet she will run better on fresh fuel.
It does seem to be Hit and missing, but I'm not happy with the length of the lockout pin, I think I made it too short and potentially it could cause a problem when missing.
What is worrying me is, as I have it now, when the lockout lever engages, the pin is held high and does not push the lifter clear of the pin holder and that is scary :big:
I need to think about this a bit.
I think I will make a new pin or something before starting it again.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5986677539/


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## bezalel2000 (Jul 29, 2011)

Way to go Pete

Its a goer

Chalk up another one :bow:


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## metalmad (Jul 29, 2011)

Thanks Mate
just fine tuning it from now in ;D
Thinking about it, I"m wondering if the governor spring is not stong enougth and thats why she's dying off.
Pete


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## steamin (Jul 29, 2011)

Awesome Pete. Congrats on the first "pops".


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## GailInNM (Jul 29, 2011)

Congratulations Pete.
First pops are a wonderful thing. Lets you know that the all the work from the past months has not been for naught. 
Gail in NM


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## metalmad (Jul 29, 2011)

Thank you so much for that Larry ;D. And Gail,
I was surprised how easy she came to life, Im hoping It will run much better next time as I think the Governor was killing it.
Pete


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## Dave G (Jul 29, 2011)

Wonderful Pete. You may want to make that pulley you mentioned before to give you more flywheel weight. I was worried that casting wouldn't be heavy enough and it may not be. Make sure the lifter moves freely in the shuttle as there is nothing but gravity to pull it in to position when the exhaust valve is locked out. Also I try not to get oil on the governor parts as this will slow them down or make them stick, they must move freely. Maybe a light oil will work but I have found oil will dry up and cause the governor to stick giving erratic operation. I'm sure you will have it sorted out in no time and if I can help in any way, let me know. Also I am going to open a Paypal account to help with selling the plans. My son tells me this is the way to go and I will do this soon. Good job and thank you for helping me with the plans, Dave


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## metalmad (Jul 29, 2011)

Thanks Dave 
I Thought I had made a mistake somewhere with the pin :big:
I have learnt so much from this build its not funny.
The Base has had two coats of varnish so far and will have a few more durring the week, at the moment I have her sitting on another bit of wood for trials.
Thank you again for letting me build this wonderful little engine :bow:
Pete


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## gbritnell (Jul 29, 2011)

Hi Pete,
Congrats on the first pop. I don't think that the governor is cutting out too soon. It seems to be running at a very nice speed. From here just some fine tuning and it will be running continuously.
gbritnell


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## steamin (Jul 29, 2011)

Hey Pete, in regards to "light" oil, one of the best "light" oils that I have used over the years has been "Starrett" Instrument Oil. It is extremely stable and does not deteriorate over time. In studies we did back in the 60's at Monsanto Research Corp, 3 in 1 oil was the worst of all of the so called light oils. Sewing machine oils were next in line. Mobil Oil makes a great series of oil called DTE. In comes in various grades, but not light enough for our models. If you can not get the Starrett instrument oil and wish some, let me know and I will buy some and ship it to you.

Another trick to try, take a No.2 pencil and rub the side of the lead sticking out on the shaft. This will deposit "graphite" on the shaft and make it slide easier.

My nickles worth. Keep on having fun !!!


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## metalmad (Jul 29, 2011)

Hi George
That Gearbox is simply inspiring :bow:
I have already cut down the Governor spring, so once I get it running right, I may have to find another :
Hi Larry 
Thank your very much for the offer, and support, but I don't think the Shuttle is sticking and the Governor may simply need to wear in a bit. 
 But I sure will try out that graphite trick :big:
My troubles are I think, simply tuning ,and I'm hoping to have another crack at her on Sunday 8)
one thing I really need to do, is round off the edge of the flywheel as its a little sharp when starting.
Pete


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## tel (Jul 31, 2011)

ONYA Pete! Thm: Yer doing better'n me - I've barely been inside the ice cave for weeks!


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## metalmad (Jul 31, 2011)

Hi Tel
I'm having trouble with the cold here in tropical Queensland so I can only imagine what you face in Bathurst !!
(VERY COLD PLACE lol)
Bez came over this afternoon and we made about 8 videos :big:
as im only allowed two a month it would probably take 4 months to get them onto my server :big:
Tomorrow is August so ill try again with loading another one or two video's
Real progress was made today and a small problem with my mixture needle was found. I ground it at 12 degrees and seem to run out of thread before getting it lean enougth , maybe I should grind up another one at 15 degrees or so.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5993502708/
PS 
Only half this video has uploaded and im not allowed more ???
(guttered ) it should be over 3 min long :'(
I wonder if I can link to my facebook page which has the whole video, plus another couple as well.


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## steamin (Jul 31, 2011)

Awesome Pete :bow: Fantastic job. I got the ole goose bumps watching it run. Being there with you during your build makes it very special for me and I am sure for many others also.

Again, grrrrrreat job 
Larry


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## metalmad (Jul 31, 2011)

Thanks Larry
She is so close now 
a few more coats of varnish and maybe a new mixture needle.
i'm trying to link to my face book page which has a couple of Videos
here is a different one .
<object width="320" height="240" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/10150267933694442" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/10150267933694442" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="320" height="240"></embed></object>


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## metalmad (Jul 31, 2011)

here is the full version of the first Vid
<object width="320" height="240" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/10150267912224442" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/10150267912224442" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="320" height="240"></embed></object>


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## Dave G (Jul 31, 2011)

Hi Pete. love the video. I think you are on the right track. I can see the intake valve opening on almost every cycle so it isn't latching the governor yet. When mine runs too rich it will do the same. Once you get the mixture right it should make more power and allow the governor to latch out. You are real close. It won't take you long to sort out and then you'll be on to the next project. This is fun isn't it? Dave


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## metalmad (Jul 31, 2011)

Hi Dave 
I think u will be safe with having your steak now anyway :big:
here's another video.
As I said we made 8 of em LOL
PS
This Video was taken before the other two and before we found the problem with the mixture needle.
<object width="320" height="240" ><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="movie" value="http://www.facebook.com/v/10150267981234442" /><embed src="http://www.facebook.com/v/10150267981234442" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="320" height="240"></embed></object>


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## arnoldb (Jul 31, 2011)

Congratulations Pete ;D - knew you'd have a runner :bow:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## cfellows (Jul 31, 2011)

Starts and runs pretty good, Pete. Nice looking engine!

Chuck


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## seagar (Jul 31, 2011)

Congratulations Pete,I have really enjoyed following your build.Keep up the good work.

Ian (seagar)
Coffs Harbour,
Australia.


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## metalmad (Jul 31, 2011)

Hi Arnold
Thank you for sticking with me Mate !!
Chuck, Im fairly happy with her now but Still need to do a little bit of dialing it in.
Ian thanks for that 
But not all is rosy in the land of Metalmad.
I woke up yesterday with a power outage and so far have only got power to half the house, My Shed is on the wrong side of the house 
The fridge and freezer are both hooked up to long extension leads, so we are left with the question.
Is life worthwhile without the Shop?Shed?
Sigh


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## steamer (Jul 31, 2011)

...get another extension cord!... ;D
Nice running engine Metalmad!
Congrats!


Dave


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## metalmad (Aug 1, 2011)

Hi Dave
My next project may be hooking up "The Rat" to my lathe :big:
Did u see that thing go, once we leaned out the mixture? LOL
(without a nob on it, I could not turn it enougth)
Pete


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## metalmad (Aug 2, 2011)

Did a little more on the Base after work today.



BaseSANY1898 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## ShedBoy (Aug 2, 2011)

Great runner Pete 
Can we see a wallaby moving around on the horizon?

Brock


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## Catminer (Aug 2, 2011)

Very nice,has been fun to watch, congrats from north of the equator                                 
 Peter


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## metalmad (Aug 3, 2011)

Thanks Peter 
I'm told Canada is lovely 
Brock, I think its fair to say there has been movement with the Wallabys :big:



BaseSANY1899 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Aug 3, 2011)

Today I made a nob for the mixture needle, ran a die over the thread and also took a file to part of the Governor that was Sticking.
Im thinking, I may do another run with her on the weekend to try out both the needle and the governor.



BaseSANY1901 by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## metalmad (Aug 5, 2011)

"THE RATTLER"



RATTLER by metalmad2011, on Flickr


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## Maryak (Aug 5, 2011)

Pete,

Sorry to be late for your run. 

I don't know how I missed it, anyway it's a great engine and CONGRATULATIONS :bow: :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## metalmad (Aug 5, 2011)

Thanks Bob ;D


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## steamer (Aug 5, 2011)

Looks great Pete! ;D

Dave


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## kvom (Aug 5, 2011)

That's a nice looking and running engine. Congrats!


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## bezalel2000 (Aug 6, 2011)

Thats a real work of art Pete :bow: :bow:

Well Done

Bez


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## metalmad (Aug 6, 2011)

Thanks guys
I guess I got lucky ;D
Pete


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## steamer (Aug 6, 2011)

metalmad  said:
			
		

> Thanks guys
> I guess I got lucky ;D
> Pete



No luck there Mate!  You built it..we watched!
 :bow:
Dave


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## the engineer (Aug 14, 2011)

glad to see that video well done shees a sweety


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## Dave G (Aug 14, 2011)

Hi Pete, well deserved praise for a job well done. It makes me feel good that you were successful in your completion of your Rattler. One never knows if he can be successful in taking an idea out of ones head and putting it to paper then getting someone else to see it the same way. I think we did good. Because this engine's design is unlike others, and my lack of drawing experience, the task you took on was a big one. I have learned a great deal from this project and have gained a little more confidence in my abilities, a feeling I hope is mutual to both of us. I have more designs in the works and some of them will be documented and some will not. As I have a short attention span and get bored with things easily I have to take on projects like these to keep myself busy. 
 I have started on another engine that won't be documented but haven't gotten too far yet. Once I'm along a ways I will post the progress. I still have lots of painting to do around the house this fall and my wife and I just got back from a trip to the east coast of the US. Now maybe I will be able to find a little time in the shop and get going on another engine. Once again, good job and I am anxious to see your next project. Dave


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## metalmad (Aug 16, 2011)

Thanks for the support Dave 
Hi John glad to see you drop in mate 
Once again Id like to thank Dave G for allowing me to build this lovely little engine, as I had to step up to do it :big:
A little boost to help me do my first multi next.
Pete


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## cfellows (Aug 20, 2011)

Thought you guys might find this video interesting...

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2qNoVyp4Ic]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z2qNoVyp4Ic[/ame]


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## metalmad (Aug 21, 2011)

Hi Chuck
What a great video, I found myself repeatedly pausing the vid for a better look at the crossover cam :big:
My "Rattler" is so easy to time and runs so well, I'm surprised the idea was not more popular!
Pete


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## Mattkguns (Oct 28, 2013)

hey metalmad,

how about a reup of those videos? or heck a new video of it running like a top!
the facebook videos no longer work, how about youtube?


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## metalmad (Oct 29, 2013)

Hi Mat
After the Rattler was done, I had problems with Yahoo and Flickr, as a result I am unable to maintain my "sows ear" and "Rattler" builds from Flickr but I will either see if I can find some videos or make another one soon.
The "Rattler" remains one of my favorite Engines and to the best of my knowledge was the second ever built.
Pete


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## wagnmkr (Oct 30, 2013)

Did the plans ever get completed for this engine?

Cheers,

Tom


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## metalmad (Oct 30, 2013)

Hi Tom
I have not heard from him for a while but "Dave G" intended to sell the "Rattler" plans.
One thing that has always impressed me about this Engine is how easy it starts and runs. Its uniqueness is another big plus. It has a sound like nothing else Ive ever seen, give him a yell, its a nice Engine.
Pete


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## wagnmkr (Oct 30, 2013)

Hi Pete,

I did send Dave an email a few days ago, but have not had a reply. I will be patient.

Cheers,

Tom


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