# Leveling the Lathe



## Mosey (Oct 23, 2011)

Rearranging my shop, so I had to level the lathe in it's new position. I used a Starrett 6" machinist's level, and put wooden wedges under the cabinet corners. With my better-half helping, we got it very close to perfect within 30 minutes of tapping the wedges. Level both lengthwise as well as across the ways.
I understand that each division on the level is .005"/foot.
Any wisdom shared on this process would be appreciated.


----------



## portlandron (Oct 23, 2011)

It's good to have it level but it's more important that there are no twist in the lathe mounts.
First step is to level the stand/cabinet that the lathe is mounted on.
Next step is to level the lathe on the stand/cabinet.


----------



## mklotz (Oct 23, 2011)

Wooden wedges? What happens when they absorb a bit of moisture? Or are these wedges just temporary until you can get the (steel) leveling screws in place?


----------



## steamer (Oct 23, 2011)

Wot they said!

Go steel....but having said that, Rivett and Holbrook made oak cabinets for their lathes....but then again.. they were WAY over built
 and of high quality.....how's yours made?

The biggest thing is to avoid bed twist.....having said that, leveling is the best way to assure that is true.

It brings the bed back to the condition it was manufactured with ....which also happens to be level.

Put another way....the lathe doesn't care if it's level...but it will care if it's twisted....

Dave


----------



## pete (Oct 23, 2011)

Level is only a static condition. There's far too much misinformation about it on various forums. I've yet to see where a dead true level condition gives you parallel shafts end to end over the length of the carrige travel. It is a much easier way to get to starting position though. Due to tollerances required to have sliding surfaces, Oil films, Even part material,hardness, cutting tool types and sharpness along with probably a huge ammount I don't know about, These all have an effect on true parts. At best a dead true lathe alignment is a compromise. Once you think your lathe is perfect then grab a micrometer with 10 times the resolution and accuracy to measure your finished parts. Yeah it's a great idea to get your lathe properly aligned. I would always do so. But it can sometimes lead to high levels of frustration. My first lathe was a Emco compact 5 lathe with screw adjustable mounts, I first got interested in proper lathe leveling starting with that lathe. I also own some remarkably accurate Mitutoyo indicators and micrometers along with a really high quality and accurate level. My shop floor is your normal wood construction. I have and could easily prove to adjust this lathe to turn parallel within .0002 over almost 12" One hour later due to expansion or contraction in the wood floor construction and those numbers are out the window. For sure if your using wood wedges I'd change to steel or better yet make your adjustments with metal mounts and screw adjustable. The very best $100 I've spent so far on my shop was buying a copy of the Connley book "Machine Tool Reconditioning". It should be required reading no mater what your interest level is. (no pun intended). The ACCURATE machine tool world is far more complcated than you would think. Or at least I thought anyway.

Pete


----------



## Niels Abildgaard (Oct 24, 2011)

Never trust wood under lathe.
Thick Concrete or a piece of rock is better.
If it is level does not matter that much..


----------



## steamer (Oct 24, 2011)

"....The very best $100 I've spent so far on my shop was buying a copy of the Connley book "Machine Tool Reconditioning". ..."


Isn't it though!...... ;D

Dave


----------



## pete (Oct 24, 2011)

Dave,
 ;D I choked a bit ordering that book, But I'm sure glad I got it now.

Pete


----------



## steamer (Oct 24, 2011)

Some books are worth having....that's one of them.....though it seems the printed word is going the way of the Do Do.....and I'll have to get a kindle to look up a tap drill size! :big:


Dave


----------

