# My Version of Elmer's Beam Engine



## JMI (Sep 9, 2008)

This is my second engine. Just getting started. It is going to take a couple of months to complete because of a full plate of other things (work/family) to take care of.







So far, so good.

Jim


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## rake60 (Sep 12, 2008)

It sure looks like a great start Jim!

Please keep us posted as it progresses.

Rick


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 12, 2008)

Looks very good! Also looks kind of familiar for some reason---


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## JMI (Sep 14, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Looks very good! Also looks kind of familiar for some reason---



I confess. The brass bearings looked like a a good idea. I believe Picasso said:
"Good artists copy, great artists steal" 

Jim


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## JMI (Nov 2, 2008)

Made a small amount of progress. Made lots of scrap pieces  but not discouraged.










More chips to be made...

Jim


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## rake60 (Nov 2, 2008)

It looks to be coming along nicely Jim, but "scrap pieces?"
You must mean "Practice Pieces".  

One little tip.
When you are ready to solder the ends on the valve and piston assembles
They need to be placed through the cylinder head and guide first.




That is probably the most common rework issue on this engine.

Rick


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## Divided He ad (Nov 2, 2008)

Hi Jim, 

Looks like your on target time wise ;D 

Making scrap parts is good for you... It teaches you how to not do it again. But more importantly it helps you occasionally find a nice shape to use instead of or elsewhere ;D 

Looks pretty good to me.... That is it looks like the starts of an engine... I can't say much more than that since I haven't built one of these yet... Some day I will need a beam engine in my collection.... 

Some day soon I'll start another engine....Not a beam, but an engine all the same. Where does all the free time go?! I'll keep looking at others builds for inspiration until I start mine... ;D


 Keep us posted on your progress, we all need a little inspiring  


Ralph.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 2, 2008)

Its looking very good!!! Rake 60 is half right : : I'm pretty sure that the valve assembly will fit thru the hole in the cylinder top plate--I know it did on my double scale unit.---Brian


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## rake60 (Nov 2, 2008)

That is correct Brian.

The hole for the valve to pass through the head is 9/64" 
The larger diameter of the valve rod is 1/8", there is .015" clearance.
Thank you for the clarification.

Rick


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 2, 2008)

rake60  said:
			
		

> That is correct Brian.
> 
> The hole for the valve to pass through the head is 9/64"
> The larger diameter of the valve rod is 1/8", there is .015" clearance.
> ...


I only know that because I was really worried about putting something together wrong when I built mine. Even so, its darn close!!!


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## JMI (Nov 2, 2008)

rake60  said:
			
		

> It looks to be coming along nicely Jim, but "scrap pieces?"
> You must mean "Practice Pieces".



Rick,

"Practice Pieces", err, yeah, that's right ;D.

Thanks for the reminder about passing the piston rod through the cylinder head prior to soldering.
Been thinking about if steel round stock is the way to go with the piston/valve rods or does brass round stock hold up well? This is being built to Elmer's original specs so the rod is kinda thin.

Thanks

Jim


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## rake60 (Nov 3, 2008)

It took me 4 attempts to make that valve.
The first two broke early in the turning process because I had mistaken
a piece of thin bronze for brass.

After I found a piece of brass in the materials box the third one cut great.
Until... I got greedy and tried to take too much of a cut. :

Turning the stock down from 1/8" to 1/16" would probably be more difficult 
using steel. 

For me, a perfectly centered narrow parting tool worked best for the 1/16" 
undercut areas. I kept the work very close to the chuck and cut it about 1/4"
at a time. Then I'd slide the stock out a little farther and cut back another 1/4"
until the center widths were finished.

Hopefully we will see some other suggestions here on better ways to cut that part.

For anyone who is not familiar with it, this is the part to be made.






Rick


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## mklotz (Nov 3, 2008)

Why "cut" it?

I made mine by soldering two pieces of 1/8" stock to a length of 1/16" rod. A U-shaped removable aluminum spacer held them at the required separation while the soldering was done. (One of aluminum's most attractive properties is the fact that solder won't stick to it.)


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## rake60 (Nov 3, 2008)

Now there's an idea I would have been thankful for a few years back. LOL

Great tip Marv!

Rick


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 3, 2008)

I used Marv's tip after I screwed my valve up the first time by trying to file it to size --I held the file crooked and had a taper on one of the ends. Using Marvs advice, I turned down just the tapered section and silver soldered a sleeve of the correct diameter in place to save the rest of the valve. Hats off to Marv!!!


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## mklotz (Nov 3, 2008)

Perhaps this is a good example from which to generalize for the newcomers...

Just because you CAN turn/mill a part doesn't necessarily mean that you SHOULD do so. Sometimes a fabrication is easier (and may be more accurate) than machining the whole thing from bar stock.

I always recommend folks to read Kozo Hiraoka's books on locomotive building if they can borrow a copy. Even if you're not into locomotives, there's lots to be learned there from a true master at the art of creating complex parts via fabrication of simpler elements.


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## JMI (Nov 3, 2008)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> Why "cut" it?
> 
> I made mine by soldering two pieces of 1/8" stock to a length of 1/16" rod. A U-shaped removable aluminum spacer held them at the required separation while the soldering was done. (One of aluminum's most attractive properties is the fact that solder won't stick to it.)



I had in mind to use round stock of the appropriate size but the aluminum spacer tip is a knock out.
Still, even assuming pre-sized diameter stock for the rods, does steel or brass have a major advantage-disadvantage or is it more a personal preference or availability issue?

Thanks for all the replies.

Jim


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## agr (Nov 3, 2008)

Jim,

I also went down the 'fabricated' path with my engine, choosing to silver solder brass "valves" to a length of 1/16" silver steel (drill rod) as I thought it would provide a stronger assembly. The same process was used for the piston & rod.







Tony.


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## wareagle (Nov 4, 2008)

JMI  said:
			
		

> ...., but darn it if these little parts are not rough on the eyes.



At that size, I can only imagine how difficult it is to see the detail you need! You have done a great job with them!  :bow:


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## JMI (Nov 5, 2008)

Rake60,
Been trying to figure out how to make the valve linkage like you did on your website.
http://www.rake60.com/beam_engine.htm
The 1/32" thick and 1/8" wide beams how did you manage those dimensions. What size stock did you start with and did you mill it down? Been searching for some 1/32" flat brass stock (by 1/8" would be perfect) but can't find any.

Any suggestions, anyone?

Thanks

Jim


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## mklotz (Nov 5, 2008)

Look for a K&S metal stand

http://www.ksmetals.com/

at local hobby stores - especially those who cater to the RC folks.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 5, 2008)

JMI--I agree wholeheartedly--Elmers engines are just too small for old eyes to work with comfortably. (Maybe even young eyes). Thats why I built mine at double scale.---Brian


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## rake60 (Nov 5, 2008)

On a chance visit to a local hobby shop I spotted this brass pack by K&S







It contains a variety of sizes of brass strip stock. 

At the time it was $8.95, maybe a little more now.
The stock is actually all metric sizes, but 1 X 3MM is close enough for the linkage parts.

Rick


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## JMI (Nov 5, 2008)

Thanks for the tips about K&S. Placed an order with these folks:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s727.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s15026.htm

This should make for and easier build.

Jim


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## JMI (Nov 13, 2008)

A few more pieces, including my homemade 3-48 acorn nut ;D
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2396.msg24625#msg24625






I just keep plodding along...

Jim


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## JMI (Nov 23, 2008)

Got the piston and some linkage done but it still lacks the flywheel and eccentric rod, as well as some more linkage.






The flywheel and eccentric rod will take some work on the RT which has me a little anxious but...

Jim


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 23, 2008)

Nice work JMI. I'm pleased to see that I am not the only one on this forum that uses drills for temporary pivot shafts!!! ;D ;D


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## JMI (Nov 23, 2008)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Nice work JMI. I'm pleased to see that I am not the only one on this forum that uses drills for temporary pivot shafts!!! ;D ;D



That way I know for sure they will fit :big: !!!

Jim


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## JMI (Dec 15, 2008)

I crossed the finish line ;D:











and a short movie of questionable quality:





The "blued" steel was done with Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. Nice touch I think.
Now for a little break from the machines.

Jim


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## Maryak (Dec 15, 2008)

JMI,

Congratulations on completing a fine looking engine. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## b.lindsey (Dec 15, 2008)

Jim,
Nicely done!! You must be very please and proud and rightly so. Elmer's Beam has always been one of my favorites and is always an attention getter too.

Thanks for sharing the pics and video.

Bill


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## Philjoe5 (Dec 15, 2008)

Jim,
Very nice looking engine. :bow: Thanks for sharing the pictures and video,

Cheers,
Phil


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 15, 2008)

Very nice. An engine to be proud of.---Brian


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## rake60 (Dec 15, 2008)

Nice Build Jim! :bow:

Rick


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