# Wobble plate engine, Elmer's #14 (finished, with pictures & video)



## Metal Butcher (Dec 6, 2009)

Since I already down loaded the plans, and my mind is racing with ideas and other related thoughts, today counts as the official start of this build.

I have wanted to add this interesting engine to my collection for some time. It uses a unusual way to operate a simple cylindrical slide valve. Its not very complicated compared to many of the plans offered by Elmer. But the basic design principal is a good basis for customization.

I'll take my first cuts tomorrow since the shop needs cleaning, the machines need oiling, and there are a few tools and materials that fell victim to my last few builds and need to be ordered.

I need to appear busy and stay down in the shop as much as possible today, since "Honey" is home. I can hear myself saying..."Honey I have a lot to do to keep with the 'start schedule' I announced on the forum today". "Can you deal with it yours self?" "Sorry. but I'm very, very, busy". :

I'll make a few parts and drag my feet around tomorrow, when there are no witnesses around! :big:

-MB


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## Twmaster (Dec 6, 2009)

And right back into the fray. This is an interesting engine. I'll be watching your build so I can shamelessly swipe some of your ideas...


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 6, 2009)

Twmaster  said:
			
		

> And right back into the fray. This is an interesting engine. I'll be watching your build so I can shamelessly swipe some of your ideas...



If you "swipe", borrow, or use 'ANY' ideas 'I' post, you are required to send a few cutters, maybe some brass bar stock, or just plain cash in an unmarked envelope would be fine. Your choice! :big:

Seriously, "swiping" an idea would be seen by me as the highest form of flattery!

'Swipe away!" ;D

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 7, 2009)

I went to see what this engine looks like and I'm looking forward to seeing how you make the wobble plate.



			
				Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> I need to appear busy and stay down in the shop as much as possible today, since "Honey" is home. I can hear myself saying..."Honey I have a lot to do to keep with the 'start schedule' I announced on the forum today". "Can you deal with it yours self?" "Sorry. but I'm very, very, busy". :



Please keep us up to date with how well that works for you. ;D In my home, what I'm doing doesn't matter even if I'm busy with the most primitive of tasks. (IF you know what I mean.)


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 7, 2009)

Today I started cutting 1/4" aluminum plates for my builds. Yes!, you read it correctly as written. To make this build a little more challenging and interesting I will be building two versions simultaneously. Version #1 will be according to Elmer's plans, and version #2 will be a horizontal-apposing two cylinder version. I drew up some rough sketches of the supporting structure to get the project off to a start by roughing out the plates. The minor details will be worked out as the build progresses. Risky, but with a little luck things will go well.

Sorry my "picture guy" was not available today, but the pieces cut today will wait.

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 8, 2009)

#1 On Monday I band saw cut All of the 1/4" aluminum pieces from 4" plate. The picture below shows the condition of the scrap material I'm working with. Fortunately it measures up at .258" giving me enough material on both sides to fly cut the pieces and remove the deep scratches and pitting. The plate is a very soft grade aluminum that is nearly impossible to file smooth. I make due with what I have but sometimes wish that the 6 to 8 feet left of this "peculiar" material would simply vanish.









#2 The picture below show all six sides of the pieces for build #1 finished.








#3 All six sides of the 1/4" plate for build #2 'Opposed twin cylinder wobble plate engine' finished.








#4 Machining the wobble 'plates' was a simple matter of machining the OD to size, then center drill and drill its hole. Then cutting off the two disc's. The first two were under sized by .004" in thickness due to a pull that's created with the angled cut-off blade I use. I added that difference to the carriage movement on the next two and they cut-off at the exact specified 1/16".

Accomplishing the 'plates' offset to the hub was incredibly simple. I marked a dot on one side of each disc as a reference point. I held the disc with my left hand with its reference dot at the top(up) and to the left. I tilted it to the left and filed horizontally on the upper and lower half of the hole with a round file. It took only a few minutes to remove very little of each opposing edge to achieve the discs minor 1/8" tilt. I filed slowly and checked the fit a few times. This was the important purpose of the marked reference dot. This method allows for a smaller gap between the two parts which I believe produces a stronger solder joint.








#5 The 'hubs' could not be any easier. The hole was finish by reaming to assure a nice snug fit to the crankshaft.








#6 Both plates and hubs were fluxed and then clamped to a fixture plate. I used a 1/8" brass rod to give the desired lift on the plate. After an eye ball check the pieces were soldered together using a propane torch. You can still see the two reference dots marked on the discs, they assured the filing was done in the correct areas after stopping for a test fit.








#7 The heavy fixture plate acted as a heat sink that had a negative effect on the free flow of the solder by spot burning the flux. Quick and out is the key to a smooth joint. Not very neat looking joints, but a little sand papering should make them more presentable.








#8 This picture of the back side shows that the solder penetrated the joint and flowed all the way around. This is proof of a good sound joint. This is much more important than a cosmetic consideration that can be corrected as part of the finishing process.

The build is off to a slow but smooth start. 8)

-MB








-MB


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## cfellows (Dec 8, 2009)

Nice progress, MB. Wish I had your get-up-n-go! I like that little fixture plate, too. I know, I get excited over the funniest things!

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 8, 2009)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Nice progress, MB. Wish I had your get-up-n-go! I like that little fixture plate, too. I know, I get excited over the funniest things!
> 
> Chuck



Thanks Chuck! I thrive on get up and go. The 'get-up' is the hardest part. But once I"m up I need to keep moving, but I move at a shamefully slow pace. I'm sure you heard the story of the tortoise and the hare. Well.. I'm no hare! Just an ornery persistent old tortoise!

About the work plate, sorry Chuck, its the only one I have. ;D Its a simple project you could knock out in an hour or two. It's 4" x 5" x 5/8" with 1/4-20 holes 5/8" CTC. I made 8 different length fingers and 4 step blocks with 3 steps at 2 different heights when they are reversed.

A 1/2" thickness and aluminum plate would be better, along with a smaller 1/2" CTC screw hole pattern. Also I think a finer 1/4-28 thread would give a better clamping feel' or even a smaller screw size. I made it to hold small pieces during machining. but I find other uses like today. It does a darn good job on walnuts too, when I forget to bring along the official nut cracker!

I don't use it that often, but there are occasions that its indispensable.

Take a break and make one, you'll be glad you did. 

-MB


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## gbritnell (Dec 8, 2009)

Hi MB, your idea for setting up and soldering the wobble plates came out great. It sure simplified the way they described it in the text. Per our conversation you should probably make the operating arms out of mild steel so that you don't have the same metals rubbing together.
gbritnell


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 8, 2009)

Thanks George! I"m scraping the idea I had to 'beef' up the 'valve lever' as it would require a larger valve and valve body. I'm not that ambitious! I found a strip of tool steel 1/16" thick that will do the trick with a bit of heat treatment. My heat treating furnace has been idle for a long time. Time to fire it up and make the shop nice and toasty. Easier to replace a worn out wobble plate and hub. Sometimes I'll run one of my little engines for mindless hours at a time. I hate the idea of having to 'baby' one.

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 8, 2009)

That was great. Thanks for showing how you made the wobble plate. It was a good learning.

You said "a very soft grade aluminum that is nearly impossible to file smooth".

Why is that? It seems counter-intuitive to me...because I know just a tad more than next to nothing... ;D


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## Twmaster (Dec 8, 2009)

No idea where he got his but a lot of the aluminum sold in places like Home Despot and Lowe's is some awful soft as rubber gummy narsty crud. Can't machine for crap. Loads up cutters....


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 8, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> That was great. Thanks for showing how you made the wobble plate. It was a good learning.
> 
> You said "a very soft grade aluminum that is nearly impossible to file smooth".
> 
> Why is that? It seems counter-intuitive to me...because I know just a tad more than next to nothing... ;D



With one swipe of a clean and chalked file you get a deep scrape(S) with a raised pile at their ends. Its hard for me to describe the problem. Its as if there are deposits of some hard impurity that catches on the cutting edge and drags along to make a gouge that is to deep to be removed with further filling. Fly cutting seems to work a little better, but it leaves hundreds of little sharp points on the surface,Take a close look at the photos I posted and you may be able to see some. However the points do sand off well. When I found it at a scrap yard it was a 12+ ft piece covered on one side with masking tape. It measures up a .258", and this is a very odd size and not standard. I have machined most of the standard grades and a few unknown hard grades. So I'm somewhat familiar with their characteristics. The soft grades are noticeably soft and can gum up a cutter under the wrong conditions, but this stuff is very strange super soft stuff that seems to have impurities through out. Maybe its some special alloy for forming?

Trust me, you would not want to deal with it!

EDIT: On the picture that showes (#2 column) you can see the larger points sticking up in the air. Its not good to run you finger across the surface and pick up slivers.

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 9, 2009)

Thanks MB and Twmaster.
I still have lots to learn about metals. This helps.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 9, 2009)

#9 On Wednesday's my shop time is usually very limited, since I have a full day running around doing weekly errands. With an early start and a few less stops I was able to manage a little shop time.

I started making the valve levers. Build #1 requires one, and build #2 requires two. I band saw cut 1/16" x 1/2" steel strip to length plus enough extra material an both ends for clean up and sizing. Below are the three rough cut pieces.






#10 First I side milled the end (one end) on all three pieces. I set up the first piece with its milled end against a work stop mounted to the vice, and took a light cut. After the hand wheel on the mill was re-set to zero, I removed the piece and it measured .029" over size in length. I dialed the hand wheel to move the table .029" closer to the end mill. After I took the cut the pieces measured up exactly 2.313. Next I set up the remaining two pieces on top of each other with their finished end against the work stop. After taking the cut all three pieces were identical in length.






#11 The 1/16" strip on hand was .500" wide. The plans call for the 'valve lever' to be .250" in width. I scribed a line to follow and removed most of the excess by free hand cutting it in the band saw using its vertical mode.






#12 The pieces needed to be set up in the mill vise to remove the rough cut edges and bring them down to .250" in width. This is a simple set up using parallels. The problem is that the work pieces are 1/16' thick, and my paralells are 1/8" thick. It became necessary to make a thinner parallel with a suitable height. Its almost a case of "you need one to make one". I took a thinner strip of metal and scribed a parallel cut line at a suitable height and did an eye-ball set up, and milled off the excess. It turned out to be way off in parallelism. After quite a bit of filing and measuring I had a pretty acceptable parallel that I could use. 






#13 With a suitable parallel ready to do its duty, the milling on the pieces would be a snap. After cutting down the fist piece and measuring to get the proper cutter height, the other two were sized with a single pass of the end mill.








#14 The 'valve lever' blanks are sized and ready for the final machining steps that will be done another day.






#15 In the first paragraph of today's post I mentioned my busy Wednesday schedule. One of the most important stops is my scrap yard visit. I didn't find any brass, but I saved a great piece of painted aluminum from the melting pot. Now it has a safe and permanent home in my shop. ;D








-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 11, 2009)

#16 I finished up the valve levers by drilling all the holes, milling 1/16" slots from both ends, and a little file work to create the radius's that allow the back and forth movement of the levers on the wobble plates. I decided against the heat treating that would probably warp the thin pieces. It wasn't worth the risk. The Opening up of the ends that ride on the wobble plate was very easy to understand. Test fitting during the process made it simple to see the areas that needed to be adjusted with filing.






#17 To mill the 1/8" depth in the head blocks (valve blocks) for their cylinders I lowered the end mill on to a .020" feeler gauge. Then I adjusted the rods on my mill to zero out my dial indicator. All that's needed is to add the .020" to the desired depth of cut. I use this simple set up to drill blind holes, and to mill pieces to proper height. 






#18 Below is a picture of the set up I just described. The dial indicator is mounted to the threaded depth rod that travels with the quill. The long adjustable rod on the left is cross connected to the rod on a swivel rod bracket bolted to the head on the mill. I loosen the brass thumb screws to make adjustments, and to swivel the rod system off to the right, and up, when they are not needed.






#19 After I finished milling the three head blocks, the 1/2" x 1/8" recesses for the cylinders were cut out using a center cutting end mill. Instead of using a raised spigot indicated in the plans used to mount the cylinder, the blocks were made 1/8" thicker to allow for a counter bores to accommodate the cylinders. Below all three head blocks are being bored 1/2" x 1/8" deep in one set up. 






#20 Using the previos vise set up, a step .250" wide by .1875" deep was milled off the front mounting point on the head blocks (valve body). This duplicates the original .3125" mounting height of the head block. Without this milled step it would have been necessary to change the length of the rocker arms and their pivot point locations. The milled steps made my alterations to the head blocks simple.






#21 Below the head blocks are being prepped for marking out the intake port locations. It turned out that the 'B' dimension was wrong and should have been .4219" just like dimension 'A'. Fortunately I caught the mistake in time.

Earlier I put the 'C' block in the vise facing the same direction as 'A' block, which would have incorrectly put the 'B' and 'C' blocks for the #2 build with one intake facing up, and the other one facing down.






#22 I finished up the head blocks (valve bodies) with all the needed drilling and every thing turned out well. The intake on the #1 (single vertical) build will be on the right side, and the intakes on #2 build (twin opposed) will both be facing up.

The reason the 'C' block on #2 build was made 1/8" longer, and that the cylinder was moved 1/8" away from the column, was to allow for the two 1/8" wide piston rods to fit side by side on the crank pin. All of the drilled port, intake, and exhaust holes are identical with their locations based on the front (column) side of the cylinder heads. On build #2 the intakes needed to both face up to be connected together and share a single and central intake pipe.

After the three near mishaps I had today, that started with forgetting to clamp the mill/drill head, I decided to call it quits for the day and post my progress. 






After typing this post, I think my index finger needs physical therapy! :big:

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 12, 2009)

Great post MB.

For physical therapy I recommend swirling index finger in a short glass filled with appropriately chilled spirits. If you wash said finger first you can use the spirits to treat the rest of the body. ;D 2nd treatment is for internal use only.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 13, 2009)

#23 Today,s pictures and post are delayed by a day. I was busy painting replacement aluminum pieces that were damaged by recent high winds that went through my area. My house is shedding aluminum like a snake sheds its skin :big:

I trued up some scrap oversize brass rod that would become the cylinders to .5001" O.D. for a snug fit in the valve bodies. The cylinder bores were drilled under size and reamed to .375". afterward each cylinder was cut off at 1.1875" in length. The plans call for 1.250, but due to the cylinders modified mounting height on the valve bodies while maintaining the original head space above the pistons, the cylinder length needed to be shortened by .0625".






#24 The bores turned out consistent in size relative to each other. I gave them a light lapping with fine compound on a spinning cylindrical nylon brush to smooth them up a bit. There final measurement is just over 3/8" at .3752". So far so good.






#25 The pistons were machined from 6061 aluminum, not the best choice based an some recent posting on the matter. I have used this combination (brass/aluminum) in the past out of necessity without any noticed problems. But now I have some reservations. I machined them down to a .3745 diameter giving me a piston to bore clearance of just under .001". This clearance was my target and I couldn't be more pleased. These 'skirted' pistons are the smallest I've made to date. I was very careful not to crush their delicate skirts while clamping them in the mill vise, to drill the 1/16" wrist pin holes.

If the diy home repairs get done in a timely fashion, I should have more progress to post in a day or two.






-MB


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## gbritnell (Dec 13, 2009)

Hi Rick, the engine's coming along great. I have to agree with you on the valve levers. Had you tried to harden them they might have warped.
gbritnell


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 15, 2009)

#26 To make the piston rods I used scrap 1/8" brass plate. I marked it out with scribed guide lines for cutting in the band saw.






#27 The blanks were roughed out with a few minutes of free hand cutting at the band saw in its vertical position.






#28 The three blanks were brought to dimension using a 1/2" end mill.






#29 After drilling and reaming the crank and wrist pin holes, they became a convenient way to set up the pieces for milling their profiles. Using a 1/16" pin in both holes gave the pieces a slight taper in the set up, and added to the other wise plain looking rods by adding a bit of visual detail. I scribed stop lines as a rough guide, and used the calibrated hand wheels to get the exact stop points needed to mill out the areas between the pin bosses. This gave me identical profiles cut on both sides of the three piston rods.






#30 After a bit of filing and sanding the piston rods were finished. I'm pleased with the results. Below is a picture of how they look finished.






#31 To make the valves for both builds three 3/16' round brass rods were cut to equal length. Guide lines were scribed to aid in preventing an error while machining out the recessed air passages. I posted the two calibrated moves needed on the lathe for quick reference. After the carriage and top slide dial indicators were zeroed out, they guided me while I machined out identical recesses on all three valves using a 1/16" parting tool.






#32 After the machining was finished on each valve, they were left in the chuck. With a protective paper towel placed over the ways, and with the lathe turned off the valves were polished shoe-shine style with #400 sand paper by repositioning the chuck a few times by hand. This is one of the methods I use to finish a piece safely. If a lathe turned piece needs filing to round out or break an edge, I simply chuck it into my slow and weak (like me) cordless drill and do the finishing at the work bench. 






#33 The picture below shows the valves ready for the next machining steps.






#34 I set up each piece in a square collet block clamped into the mills vise. I used my edge finder on the work piece to zero out on its edges, and made the appropriate moves using the calibrations on the mills hand wheels to properly locate the 1/16" pivot pin holes. All that's needed is to center drill, drill, and ream to size. 






#35 With out removing the piece from the collet block after the previos step to drill the cross hole for the pivot pin, a slot was cut to proper depth using a 1/16" slitting saw.






#36 The picture below shows the valves finished, except for the raised burr I just noticed reviewing the picture in this post. Not a problem, I find little details that need attention and correct them (if I remember) before final assembly.






Some of the parts are in this build are a bit to small for me see without the aid of magnification. I suspect that at least some the older gent's (like me) on this forum avoid many, if not all of Elmer's plans due to their small size. I read that most of the plans were geared towards owners of smaller machines. Up sizing the plans has worked for me on a few previos builds. 

"Sometimes I feel like I'm employed at a factory that produces hand made tooth picks." ;D

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 15, 2009)

Great post MB. Excellent detail and tips.

I know what you mean about small parts. I've got magnifiers all over the place now.
Just had an eye check...time for prescription glasses.
Upside is my daughter didn't use all of the FSA we put aside...so I'm going to get some prescription safety glasses!


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 17, 2009)

#37 Hi all. Today I decided to make the 'lever pivots'. Making two on opposite ends of a block seemed like a good way to eliminate too many repeated steps if they were made individually. 

Below is a picture of the block with four 1/16" saw cuts. It turned out well with all four blocks measuring up within .001". I was thrilled! When I walked over to the bench to look at the plans something didn't look quite right. After re-examining the plans under magnification, I became painfully aware that the read 3/8" width of the block was actually 5/8" on the plan! My poor eye sight got me again! Turns out that I just spent nearly two hours practicing 'block sizing' and 'slot cutting'! With my adrenalin pumped up, and my experience level enhanced, the replacement block took less than one hour.







#38 The block needed to hang out one side of the mills vise for slotting. This type of clamping can offset the movable jaw and cause uneven pressure on the work piece that could lead to it shifting. To even out the pressure, the opposite end of the vise needed support. To accomplish this I made up two sets of space blocks to match the dimensions on the work piece. This is the first time I used these blocks, and they turned out to be a real secure time saving way to do this set up.






#39 To cut the out side profile on the sides of the 'lever pivots' I set up a vise stop block to do all the machining on four sides with one set up. After setting the end mill height, and moving the table over the width of the cut, it was simple to crank through each cut by flipping and rotating the work.






#40 Using the same flip and rotate stop block method I center drilled and drilled all twelve pivot pin holes. I shut off the mill only once to change out the center drill for the drill.






#41 To part off the pieces using the same slitting saw I used the same flip and rotate method.

However, this time the edge of the vise became my set up stop.






#42 Earlier on I decided the two mounting holes would be drilled as a last step. After zeroing out the spindle I randomly set up two pieces in the mill vise on top of two parallels. After each piece was individually zeroed out on the left side, the mill table was moved .0942" and then .5317" to drill the two mounting holes on the work pieces. 






#43 After a little careful filing and sanding the 'lever pivots' are finished. Only three are needed for build #1 and build #2. It would have been more work to avoid making the fourth one, and it gave me a spare just in case one decides to jump off my bench, and commit suicide. The block at the bottom of the picture was my "practice" block. :






#44 It was still early in the day, so I decided to make a few more pieces. I couldn't find the diameter of the crank disc on my copy of the plans and decided that 1" would be about right based on the given 3/4" throw of the crank. Since build #1 is a single piston engine the plans specify a counter balanced crank disc. 

To make the discs I machined up an over size round brass bar to 1" in diameter. After drilling and reaming the 'shaft' hole deep enough for two discs, they were individually faced smooth and cut off at 3/16" + .005" for a latter clean up of the less than acceptable surface finish created by the cut off tool.

I drilled a mounting hole in a scrap block mounted in the mill, and then zeroed out both hand wheels. I used a tight fitting bolt and mounted one of the discs faced side down separated by a piece of paper to prevent marring it. After off setting the table .375" the crank pin hole was drilled and reamed through the disc and part way into the scrap block. The second discs crank pin hole was drilled and reamed without breaking the set up by simply bolting it down. After reaming, a pin was pressed through it and into the scrap block to become an indexing pin for milling the counter balance profile needed on build #1. The cuts were made as calibrated moves based on the center of the disc being zeroed out. One cut strait in towards the center and out the right side completed the profile on one side. After returning the cutter to the starting point, the work piece was then flipped and the identical cut repeated on the other side. I found this method to be a simple solution to the problems I encountered in the past with reading hand wheels in reverse or dealing with lead screw back lash. Another example of the simple flip and repeat method I used earlier today.






#45 To complete the crank two pieces of 'shaft' were cut to length and ends were given a ground finish. I pressed them into the 'crank discs' from the faced side .005 short of bottoming out along with Loctite. The crank shafts were returned to the lathe for facing off the additional .005 left on the discs to clean up the sides cut with the parting tool. In the picture below you will notice that one crank disc was not profiled for counter balance. Build #2 is an opposed two cylinder and does not require a counter balanced crank.

I learned quite a bit today, and documented it as best I could in hopes that a beginner like me might find the methods I used today of some use.






-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 17, 2009)

Great post.
Great finish on those cranks!
Beginner? Ha!

I also like that you number your entries. Nice reference. I don't have the discipline for that.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 19, 2009)

#46 For today's post I decided to make the flywheels. I bored out the spoke recesses a 1/2" deep on 1-1/2" and 2" aluminum discs 5/8" thick. Before removing them from the lathe chuck, their 3/16" crank shaft holes were drilled and reamed. Then they were mounted in a 5C spin fixture using a 1/2" mandrel drilled for a bolt to fit their 3/16" bores. using an index of 6-12-18-24-30-36 to equally space the spokes the six holes were drilled and reamed for 3/16" spokes. I center drilled, drilled and reamed all six with one chucking of each cutter by indexing. This helped to make each operation easier to monitor using a dial indicator, and to duplicate each holes depth without breaking through into the crank shaft bore. 

The picture below shows two started flywheels, the larger 2" one will be used on build #2, the twin cylinder opposed horizontal.






#47 To remove the burr's left around the spoke holes by the drilling and reaming, I mounted the discs on a mandrel and chucked it in my 3/8" cordless drill. While the discs were spinning sand paper was applied on the inside recess with the aid of a short 1/4" round bar to sand off the burrs. The drill was run in both directions to De-burr evenly on both sides of the holes. This method does a much neater job than I can do with a Dremel mounted stone or ball end burr.






#48 Twelve spokes were cut using the band saw. Two different lengths were needed equaling the two different depths of the spoke holes plus an extra .050" for peining them at the outer diameter of the two flywheel discs. One end on each spoke was beveled, and after the addition of Loctite they were driven home and peined as opposing pairs.






#49 The picture below shows the protruding ends of the spokes being trimmed off. The final machining of the outer diameter will be dealt with latter.






#50 After the Loctite cured, the flywheel's were returned to the lathe. This time the spokes and recess's were faced inward to machine off the 1/8" excess that held the hub's and outer rim's together during the operations needed to add the spokes. 






#51 With the back side's trimmed off, the flywheels were machined down to the planned width leaving the spokes centered on their rims.






#52 In the picture below the flywheels were mounted on a "lathe mandrel" to true up their outer diameters. In an effort to reduce or eliminate tool chatter their spokes were packed with "butt putty". This helped quite a bit but I still had some chatter that required re-cutting to produce and acceptable surface finish. 

"Butt putty", aka-balistic putty, aka-plumbers putty.






#53 The sides were trued up by removing equal amounts off both sides. While in this set up a slight bevel to break the sharp edges was added to all the outer corners.






#54 At last, the final picture. The flywheels are finished except for paint or polish. In the picture below they are shown "as machined" and ready for what ever surface treatment is desired.






Its approaching two weeks since the start of this build. I was hopping for a two week completion, would have settled for three, fearing four. With holiday preparations its difficult to slip in very much shop time. Oh well, I guess it doesn't really matter. 

-MB


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## gbritnell (Dec 19, 2009)

Hi Rick, it looks like you're making great progress on the engine. I have all my shopping done so with the coming Holiday I should get more shop time in. Tomorrow is a music concert so that shoots Sunday.
gbritnell


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 21, 2009)

#55 Today I laid out the 'base' plates for build #1 and #2.






#56 The picture below shows the bushing holes drilled and reamed on the front blocks ('bearing') for both builds






#57 I drilled and tapped all the holes on the 'column' for build #1






#58 The three major structural components of build #1 were assembled for a test fit. In the picture the parts are a little sloppy looking but don't let that fool you. All of the dimension and locations of the holes were done with a high degree of accuracy.






#59 Shown below are the three major components of build #2. There's still quite a bit of work that needs to be done on the #2 'column' (the large piece).






#60 I'm developing a drafting style that you may find (at least) difficult to understand. The important thing is that it all makes sense to me, and guides my way through build after build with out to many problems. Well.. usually anyway. Below are some of the calculations I do to convert the fractions on the plans to decimal figures, and also to generate machine coordinates.






#61 Four more pages of calculations needed for today's machining session.






#62 Below is the drawing ("blue print") of the column for build #2. Its not complete at this point. It will be used to generate another 8 to 10 pages of calculations I need to finish up the column for the #2- Horizontal Opposed Twin.








The small amount of photos don't seem to show much progress, but I did have a busy and productive day. 

-MB


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## mklotz (Dec 21, 2009)

MB,

If I send you $5, will you promise to use the money to buy yourself a scientific calculator?


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 21, 2009)

mklotz  said:
			
		

> MB,
> 
> If I send you $5, will you promise to use the money to buy yourself a scientific calculator?



Thanks for the generous offer Marv! You really do care! :bow:

If I sent YOU $10 you wouldn't be able to teach me how to use it. Trust me! Remember that old dog new trick thingy, from your past experience. :big:

Even if I wanted to, I'm too busy doing the work to stop and learn new ways to accomplish the same goal.8)

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 23, 2009)

#63 After drilling and taping the holes on the face of 'column' for build #2, the four taped holes on its opposite ends to hold down the valves needed to be done. When I tried to set up the column in the vise it became apparent that there was not enough room between the work piece and chuck. The set-up I used was stable enough to drill and tap the holes without disturbing the vise and took only a few minutes. A little "odd" but it worked, (feel free to laugh).






#64 I set up the three 'lever guides' to drill their two clearance holes, and afterward clamped them with their saw cut slot facing up to drill and tap for the two 2-56 screws that go through the column from behind, and hold them in place. Setting up three pieces in a vise this way will not work unless the outer dimension of all three pieces are identical.






#65 To mill the angled profile on the column, I scribed guide lines and determined by eye ball comparison that a 15 degree angle would be appropriate. The smaller 'bearing' shown on the left side of the picture was previously milled using a 14 degree angle block.






#66 In the picture below the 15 degree angle on the side of the 'column' is being cut using a 1/2" end mill. A brass shim was needed on the work piece since it was thinner by two thousands than the angle blocks.






#67 The column profile turned out as well as could be expected. There is a minor discrepancy in the measurement on the flats at its base mounting point. The plan shows 1/2", but mine ended up 7/16". Apparently 15 degrees is not the "exact" angle created by following the dimensions in the plans. With out the angle specified in the plans I gave it my best shot and it turned out with except able results.






#68 A quick test assembly of the four parts that make up the structure showed that the parts match right up, with no problems. I just love it when ever thing fits the way it should.






#69 Below is a shot of the set-up I used to mill the angled sides on the 'column'. Trying to line up and locate two stacked angle blocks, the work piece, and a brass shim accurately to make duplicate cuts on both sides would have been impossible. By using a work stop, and taping the angle blocks from shifting, the milling became a simple cut-flip- cut, making both sides equal. Two sided (double stick) tape is a good way to solve a shifting problem like the one I encountered in this set up, and having some in your collection of tools is a good idea. 






-MB


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## gbritnell (Dec 23, 2009)

Boy you're making good progress on your engine. The documentation is first rate. It takes a lot of time to machine, take picture, machine, take picture, download to server, copy to site with text. You'll have another one knocked out in no time.
Maybe after the holiday bustle we'll have to get together and see each other's shop.
gbritnell


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 23, 2009)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Boy you're making good progress on your engine. The documentation is first rate. It takes a lot of time to machine, take picture, machine, take picture, download to server, copy to site with text. You'll have another one knocked out in no time.
> Maybe after the holiday bustle we'll have to get together and see each other's shop.
> gbritnell



Sounds good George! I was thinking the same thing, after the holiday recuperation. 

-MB


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## 4156df (Dec 23, 2009)

MB,



> The documentation is first rate. It takes a lot of time to machine, take picture, machine, take picture, download to server, copy to site with text



I agree with George. Just know that the extra effort is much appreciated.

Dennis


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 24, 2009)

#70 I managed to do a little work this morning ("Honey" was at work), and decided to post my progress since the builds are nearing completion.

I cut the 45 degree angle profiles on the front 'bearing block, and cut out the square profiles and 30 degree angles on the horizontal 'column' for build #2. All that the pieces need now is final filing and sanding.






#71 After the final sanding the pieces were wiped down with solvent in preparation for the paint finish. I sprayed on a thin 'base coat' of my favorite color on each piece, one side at a time. The picture below shows the pieces after a 'finish coat' of dusted on 'clear laquer' was applied.






#72 I forgot to mention that I cut and routed the wooden bases for both builds over a week ago. Every day I applied at least two coats of Tru-Oil using my finger. Prior to applying each coat of the oil finish the bases were buffed with #0000 steel wool. There must be at least twelve coats I applied that the 'Leopard Wood' needed to fill in it's strange grainy surface.

I still need to make up some plumbing to connect the two cylinders on build #2 giving it one air/steam connection, make a few little pins, and probably some other little piece(s) long forgotten that will become apparent when I start assembling the engines.

Hopefully my next post and progress report will show at least one build finished, and maybe running too!. 






Merry Christmas everybody!

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 26, 2009)

#73 Hi all, Today I assembled my modified single cylinder, and double cylinder version of Elmer's #14 'Wobble Plate Engine. After a quick eye ball set up of the wobble plate on the single cylinder version, it started to run with a little nudge after the the air supply was connected. I duplicated the wobble plates orientation on the Horizontal Opposed Twin version, and it also started right up. Both engines are set up to run in a clockwise direction facing the flywheel. Surprisingly, neither engine required any note worthy break-in period. Both builds will run slow on less than one pound of air pressure. At 3 to 4 psi they run much faster than I feel comfortable with. When I connected them in to my air supply in tandem they ran at one pound of air pressure. After about an hour of mindlessly watching them run I realized its time to stop, and post the results.

Below are the final pictures of my modified versions of Elmer's #14. I would like to think that Elmer would be pleased to see the pair I built and smile, the way that his work puts a smile on my face.






#74






#75






#76






#77






#78






#79






#80






#81






#82






#83






#84






I hope you enjoyed watching my build, as much as I enjoyed sharing it with you!

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhAMFF5C10w[/ame]

-MB


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## joe d (Dec 26, 2009)

MB

Those turned out wonderful :bow: :bow:

Do you ever sleep? You went from "What's next?" to DONE in less time than it takes me to decide the machining order for my next part. I really like that shipside grey paint as well.

Cheers, Joe


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## b.lindsey (Dec 26, 2009)

Great job on two fine engines MB. I likt the paint job too!!

Bill


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## lathe nut (Dec 26, 2009)

Metal Butcher, that was a wonderful job you have done, love the detail and the colors, sure run sweet, thanks for the someday to do projects, got it all saved to file, thanks again, Lathe Nut


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## Deanofid (Dec 26, 2009)

They look goood, Rick! Interesting motion, and fun to watch when running slow. Especially the twin. 
I enjoy that caddywhumpus action of the valve disc.
You have a talent for picking a song to go along with the engine, too.

You referred to the wood that you used for the bases as "Leopard wood". Is that what it's really called? I don't know wood from worms, so, just curious.

Again, good looking engines!

Dean


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## Maryak (Dec 26, 2009)

MB,

2 beautifully finished engines. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## cfellows (Dec 26, 2009)

Beautiful job, MB. Love your work.

Chuck


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 26, 2009)

Deanofid  said:
			
		

> You referred to the wood that you used for the bases as "Leopard wood". Is that what it's really called? I don't know wood from worms, so, just curious.
> 
> Again, good looking engines!
> Dean



I ordered the wood off of E-Bay, and that's what they called it.

http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/leopard.htm

http://www.woodworkerssource.com/Leopardwood.html

If I need to pay $ for a small piece of wood I try to pick something with eye appeal. Makes the price paid a little less painful. :big:


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## Captain Jerry (Dec 26, 2009)

MB

You have taken a very simple design and shown the beauty within. I have looked at this plan before and never saw what you saw. If Elmer were to see the single, his smile would be huge. If he were to see the double, his jaw would drop. Mine did.

Jerry


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## Powder keg (Dec 26, 2009)

Great job MB!!! Those wobble plate engines are fun to watch.


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 27, 2009)

Great MB. Just great.
I did enjoy watching the build...too quick though!
Very nice additions to your collection.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 27, 2009)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> ..too quick though!



Thanks for the compliment Zee, And also all of the previos posters!

Comical rebuttal to Zee's comment;

..too quick though? Don't know were that came from! I guess we all see things from a different perspective. I spent 20 days on this build! And I'm retired with very little else to do (actually nothing). I feel that my pace is about par with the speed of a stick being dragged through molasses. If I moved any slower they'd bag and box me!

There is nothing wrong with anyone taking as much time that they like on a project, savoring the moment so to speak. I'm just the type of person that's never satisfied with their own performance, Never! In my previos work life my only focus was "speed and accuracy." Record breaking performance had its addictive rewards. I admit I was a junkie!

Since this is my hobby I'm going as slow as I can, making only one or two parts a day. I actually think I spend more time day dreaming in the porcelain library, on this forum, or mindlessly watching an engine run! Its ridiculous! :big: 

-MB


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 27, 2009)

Metal Butcher  said:
			
		

> ..too quick though? Don't know were that came from! I guess we all see things from a different perspective.



Ah sorry for that...I was speaking from my own perspective...in that I didn't get enough. ;D Apologies if that came across wrong.

And I see you've started another thread! Excellent!

Most requirements I deal with are in opposition with each other. More speed? Less accuracy. More accuracy? Less speed. You can replace 'accuracy' with 'enjoyment', 'quality', 'cost'...pretty much anything you want.


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 27, 2009)

HI Zee, What you said was perfectly fine. Your complimentary remark on the speed of my build was appreciated and understood.

With out seeing the silly look on some ones (my) face its hard to understand when their being funny.

-BM


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## dsquire (Dec 28, 2009)

Metal Butcher

Those are 2 very fine looking engines that you have built. The level of instruction that you have provided is wonderful and the photos and video are remarkable. Being retired myself I can understand the working at your own pace, what ever that may be. We have done the work thing at their pace, now it time to do it at our pace so that it is fun, not work. Thanks for taking the time to post all the documentation and pictures to this wonderful build for all to share. :bow: :bow:

Happy New Year

Cheers 

Don


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 28, 2009)

Thank you Don. I'm glad you find my 'build posting' helpful. As a beginner I don't have much to offer, but I do my best in hopes that some one will find something they can use in their efforts.

I have friends from Kitchner that vacation in my favorite spot just outside Barrys Bay, Ont. I spend my summers up there with many life long friends. It's one of the most beautiful places in Ontario.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barry's_Bay,_Ontario

Happy new year to you too!

-MB


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## Troutsqueezer (Dec 28, 2009)

MB. if these are samples of what you can do as a "beginner" you must have really excelled at whatever it was you did professionally. You are an important part of what makes this forum so valuable. 

I'm still working on Elmer's Open Twin Column you inspired me to build but since I'm not yet retired (two more years) and still a novice, it's taking a little time. 

-trout


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 28, 2009)

Hi Trout, and thanks for the compliment. I do consider myself to be maybe just past a beginner. There are many machining operations that I cannot fathom doing. One year prior to joining this forum, I built only one or two non- engine projects per year. Most of them...well, lets just say there was plenty of room for improvement.

Now that I'm retired, and on this forum, I have the motivation and time to improve the quality and quantity of my hobby projects.

Prior to retirement is a good time to stock up on anything you think you will need. When you retire you can and will have more time to spend on your hobby.

-MB


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## ksouers (Dec 28, 2009)

Hey MB, those look great! I had to look twice to see that they were running, very smooth. I really like the twin, very ingenious. :bow:

And I liked the Beatles in the background, too ;D


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## gbritnell (Dec 28, 2009)

Hi Rick, what a great job you did on those two engines. I especially like the twin and I'm sure you do because it was your own design or variation of a theme. The finish you have on them is first class. I think you're going to have to change your status from beginner to something much better because nobody would believe you when they see your builds. What's on the bench now?
George


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 28, 2009)

gbritnell  said:
			
		

> Hi Rick, what a great job you did on those two engines. I especially like the twin and I'm sure you do because it was your own design or variation of a theme. The finish you have on them is first class. I think you're going to have to change your status from beginner to something much better because nobody would believe you when they see your builds. What's on the bench now?
> George



Thank you for the wonderful compliment George! I hate to say it publicly but the Twin Opposed Cylinder is really special to me. I imagined it, and made it a reality. And I'm very proud of the result. Just looking at it puts a silly smile on my face. But as many of us know, that feeling goes away, and needs to be replaced by building another project.

My current project is Elmers #52. Its a dual acting two cylinder wobbler with reverse. I have seen quite a few variants of this style, with possible roots back to Elmer's original design. I have a few ideas I'd like to try, and a few unconventional ways I'll use to build a few of the parts. Nothing radical, just a few minor changes and custom touches that make a build more enjoyable.

Thanks again George, and Happy New Year!

-MB


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## Metal Butcher (Dec 28, 2009)

ksouers  said:
			
		

> Hey MB, those look great! I had to look twice to see that they were running, very smooth. I really like the twin, very ingenious. :bow:
> 
> And I liked the Beatles in the background, too ;D



Thanks ksouers! They are actually the quietest engines I ever built. Their small bore and stroke are probably the reasons.

Beatles, in the back ground? I'll have to check the video! Can't be, I just had the exterminator in last week! :big:

Good back ground music helps me to stay focused, and sane. Sorta sane? ;D

-MB


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## vascon2196 (Feb 28, 2010)

Wow...I just found this thread. This was my third engine and it looks like dog sh-t compared to your engine. I love the look of Elmer's engines and had to make this one but maybe I should have waited until I was better.








You did an outstanding job with the wobble plate engine! I'm at a loss for words.

Chris


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## Metal Butcher (Feb 28, 2010)

Chris, what are you talking about? Your engine looks great. I have had quite a bit of practice with the cosmetic methods that i use to 'fluff' the finished look of my builds.

I spend a lot of time filing, sanding on a glass plate, and painting pieces.

I think you did a great job on you build. I would be proud of it if I were you!

Thanks for posting the picture. Its good to see other members like you, share my interesrt in Elmer's work.

-MB


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## doco (Feb 18, 2013)

> ...but maybe I should have waited until I was better


 
Building a few engines and things is a great thing to do while 'waiting' to get better. Just saying...


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## Path (Feb 18, 2013)

MB,

Really enjoyed going through this build ... nice job. Especially all the detail pictures of the set ups. Nice  

But ... I was looking forward to the video, not available . Is the video posted somewhere else to view? 


Looking forward to your next project,

Pat H.


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## RLH (Aug 4, 2014)

I'm having problems with the valve timing. The picture shows valve centered at top dead center but the pic above shows the valve open to the exhaust. Which is it? Mine starts opening the intake port before the piston is back at tdc and then the crank reverses.


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