# Seeking Sieg X3 DRO info please



## DICKEYBIRD (Jul 13, 2014)

Im trying to make a couple decisions on a DRO for my Sieg X3 mill.  Apologies in advance for duplicate-posting this on several of my favorite forums but Im hoping someone has been through this already and has some good advice.  Id like to pull the trigger today before my tightwad alter ego steps in & shuts me down. 

  #1 - Im going with either the mTECH DRO3M or the TDS-3i LCD package from http://www.thedrostore.com/  Whats the difference other than the latter being $30.00 higher?  Im on a tight budget but obviously $30 more isnt much.

  #2  What scale lengths to get?  Ive found only 2 specific notes about the X3 on the web.  One says
  X axis  350mm 
Y axis  150mm
Z axis  450mm
  These exact lengths are not available from the drostore.com.

  The other says
  X axis  320mm
Y axis  170mm
Z axis  420mm
  These exact lengths _are_ available from the drostore.com.

  Anybody have any first hand experience they can share?


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## purpleknif (Jul 14, 2014)

I really like the Igaging ones. Easy to mount and pretty robust. The price is right too. They're all over E-bay.


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## Pete. (Jul 14, 2014)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-axis-DRO-Linear-Scale-Kits-Mill-Seig-X3-/400314583270

I installed a kit from the folks in the link.
I have attached the install and user files in the ZIP and a pic of my setup.
The kit provided everything to mount the scales - some drilling a tapping was all that was required.
Hope this helps 

View attachment DRO.zip


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## rodw (Jul 16, 2014)

Dickeybird, Petes kit is the same as mine described for you on another forum.

I think their idea for the y axis mounting is what sets it apart. Scales are 1 micron, which is nice but the plastic console is not as nice as the metal case on the Ditron I put on my lathe.
See http://www.aliexpress.com/store/903293

When you work out your lengths, ask for a quote from them, it might be better than what they publish.


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## DICKEYBIRD (Jul 16, 2014)

Thanks Pete & Rod!  That's some very helpful information.  I have the same power feed on my X3 and was worried about it getting in the way of the X & Y scale install but looks like that's not a problem.

I'm tempted to buy the kit like yours but budget issues will probably have me making my own brackets.  It's a $185.00 difference.


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## Pete. (Jul 16, 2014)

I have attached more pic with close-up shots of my mounting - maybe they are useful or at least relive some frustration.
 Pete 

View attachment 1 Mill Pics.zip


View attachment 2 Mill Pics.zip


View attachment 3 Mill Pics.zip


View attachment 4 mill.zip


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## Pete. (Jul 16, 2014)

LOL, while I am in a typing mood.

 Some years back I found a very creative lady name Paula who created several very useful mods I have attached - they make using the X3 mill much more friendly and they are not difficult to accomplish. 

View attachment Clutch.zip


View attachment spindle lock.zip


View attachment Stop Block.zip


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## DICKEYBIRD (Jul 17, 2014)

Thanks Pete, VERY helpful and relieves much frustration indeed!

The ebay link you provided lists these scale sizes:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]1 x WTB5-600mm, 1 x WTA-350mm, 1 x WTA-250mm*

*[/FONT]Are they what your kit came with?  The supplier I'm looking at has scale sizes 620mm, 370mm & 270mm.  Do you think the extra 20mm length will be a problem?


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## Pete. (Jul 17, 2014)

I don't see it being a problem but you will be at the edge is a spot or two depending on your preference. In the pictures attached the red arrows show the back of the table. At one end of the table is a drain plug If you do not wish to mount soas to cover the plug (make it useless) then it will be tight on the other end.

 Good news, the sizes you list will fit, X and y axis will be a tight fit. Z will require a Thick mounting block.

 The only shortcoming in my setup is that to lub the Z axis screw I have to unmount my Z axis scale to remove the shroud on the mill.


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## rodw (Jul 17, 2014)

I can't say that I have any problems lubing the Z axis. I think my Z axis is mounted a bit further back. Pretty sure I drilled and tapped into the square mounting block at the base that is shown in Pete's pic.






You can see I aligned the cover with the dovetail. With the cover on the X axis I cut the flange off as there is not a lot of room. the covers are mounted to the scale but not all scales would support this depending on the mounting screw design. 

I will say it has all been flawless for a couple of years now and I would be lost without it.


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## Pete. (Jul 18, 2014)

I just realized looking at rodw's pic I did not install the swarf covers - I hemed and hawed but finally decided not to install them. I have not had a problem thus far but they are part of the design. They do afford some protection but I was challenenged to see how I was at risk with out them given they are open on the back of each cover.

Pete


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## rodw (Jul 18, 2014)

Pete. said:


> I just realized looking at rodw's pic I did not install the swarf covers - I hemed and hawed but finally decided not to install them. I have not had a problem thus far but they are part of the design. They do afford some protection but I was challenenged to see how I was at risk with out them given they are open on the back of each cover.
> 
> Pete


I nearly didn't fit them either. In the end, I decided they were provided for a reason. On the mill it was very easy as the end blocks on the scales let the covers to be just held on by 2 bolts to the scale itself, one at each end. The X axis one needed trimming down to fit in but that was super easy on my bandsaw in table mode. On my lathe, the covers could not be mounted this way as the design at the end of the scale was different and covers needed to be mounted to the machine itself. To me, this is a betterway as dropping someting on the cover does not transfer forces to the scale but it was not practical on the mill. The longnitudinal scale took a lot more effort as it needed to be spaced out from the bed. As I run coolant, I thought it was more important to be covered so I used some 10mm x 10mm square aluminium bar the length of the cover to fill in the gap and drilled and tapped into the machine. I will say it was great to have first fitted a kit as it gave me a lot of confidence and ideas when it came to tackling the lathe.

Here are a couple more photos of the Z





This block mounts to existing bolt holes.






The reader scale was mounted to a piece of ovesize ally angle iron cut down. The ally shop had pity on me with my missing part so the gave me an offcut. 






Aligning the scale






I also used a bit of angle on the X axis as the design was for the reader to screw straight to the mill but I decided it would be easier to mount the screws on the side of the reader to give more adjustment so trimmed up another piece of angle.


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## DICKEYBIRD (Jul 19, 2014)

Wow, you fellows' "been there, done that" advice is greatly appreciated.  It'll cause my screw-ups to reach epic proportions.  We know I'll screw up something.

I placed the order yesterday with the drostore.com & the PayPal payment has processed but I haven't heard anything yet.  He's supposed to contact me by email after the order is placed to get my chosen scale lengths.


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## Pete. (Aug 25, 2014)

Have you installed your DRO?


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## DICKEYBIRD (Aug 25, 2014)

Pete. said:


> Have you installed your DRO?


Unfortunately, no I haven't.  I placed the order on a Sunday morning & received it Thursday morning.  Can't beat that!

I immediately checked to make sure everything arrived as promised & then plugged it all up to make sure it booted up & worked.  Life, work & family car problems have gotten in the way every weekend ever since but I will get to it soon.  Pics & details to be posted later.


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## ronboult (Oct 5, 2014)

Hi Dickeybird
Two comments
1 Measure the actual travel of all three axis and make sure the travel length of the  scales you order are greater than these measurements. Longer is not a problem within reason but shorter will destroy the read head. Scales are normally specified by the travel with the actual length being greater.

2 When fitting the x scale most people mount the scale to the back of the table which then moves and the read head is stationary on the saddle.
In contrast with the Y axis scale most setups posted on the forums have the scale mounted to the base with the read head attached to the to the saddle and the read head moves. This means that the cable out of the read is constantly moved. I have only seen one post where the scale is mounted to the saddle and the read head is stationary on the base. Constant moving of the read head and hence the cable does not seem to be a good idea.
I am currently fitting a Easson 12 DRO to my SX3 and I will be installing the Y axis Read Head as stationary.
Ron


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## DICKEYBIRD (Oct 5, 2014)

Thanks for the input Rod; good point!

Please take lots of notes & pics and post them if you get time.  I'm getting a little closer to starting my installation.


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## AussieJimG (Oct 5, 2014)

I have just fitted  power feed to the X axis but I am not sure that I will keep it. It makes the handwheel very stiff and difficult to adjust.

But I really wanted power feed to the Z axis so I fitted a driving dog similar to the ones on my little engines. Now I can use my battery drill to move the head up and down. I am very happy with this.

Jim


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## AFCarbon15 (Oct 6, 2014)

AussieJimG said:


> I have just fitted power feed to the X axis but I am not sure that I will keep it. It makes the handwheel very stiff and difficult to adjust.
> 
> But I really wanted power feed to the Z axis so I fitted a driving dog similar to the ones on my little engines. Now I can use my battery drill to move the head up and down. I am very happy with this.
> 
> Jim


 
Fab up a clutch.  There's a few threads on some pretty simple cam type clutches.  A couple used a hex head and a 12pt socket to simplify allignment when disengaging.  I plan to do it, but it's a winter project for me.


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## DICKEYBIRD (Oct 6, 2014)

I have the X power feed & didn't like the loss of feel that comes along with it either.  I got used to it though & wouldn't do without it now.

The only disappointment I've had so far is the crappy speed pot that started acting up in less than an hour of use.  The replacement part was on back-order for several months.  I finally got it but haven't had time to install it yet.  Hopefully the new one is better.


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## Pete. (Oct 6, 2014)

This evening I will post a clutch mod I have made - I got the mod from Paula - can't remember more about her - but it is well written and work great and is easy to use.
Pete


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## Pete. (Oct 6, 2014)

I have attached 3 mods that make the X3 more user friendly.
 None are difficult or time consuming but what a difference.
 The Clutch resolves the problem of extra torque when using the hand wheel in the x-axis and the spindle lock gets rid of a wrench when changing collets. The stops make simple X-axis milling easier to setup.
 Clutch and spindle lock are not my design but I am still very thankful for having Paula's design and input.

 Pete 

View attachment Clutch.zip


View attachment spindle lock.zip


View attachment Stop Block.zip


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## AFCarbon15 (Oct 7, 2014)

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGcqeq4gUys"]YouTube Link to Homemade Power feed with "simple" clutch.[/ame]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Cy-zF6R6cI"]Another YouTube with better "simple" Clutch[/ame]

I still think there's better ways, suppose that's why I haven't settled on doing it just yet.


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## ronboult (Oct 8, 2014)

Hi Dickeybird
Have you seen the article by Alex Du Pre in the latest two issues of Model Engineers Workshop magazine.
He details his installation of a DRO to an X3 and in particular demonstates how he fitted the Y axis with a stationary readhead. I will be attempting something similar with my SX3 
Ron


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## DICKEYBIRD (Oct 8, 2014)

No I haven't Ron.  Is that a magazine one has to purchase from a store or is it available online?


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## DICKEYBIRD (Feb 28, 2015)

Well, I&#8217;m finally back to report on the mTech 3-axis DRO I bought from thedrostore.com.  It took far longer than it should have but wow, am I glad to have it now!  I&#8217;ve had the mill for over 8 years now and have made & bought a steady stream of tooling for it as money & time permitted.  Knowing what I know now and if I had it to do over again, I would&#8217;ve got the DRO first then moved on to all the other stuff.  There&#8217;s no telling how much time would&#8217;ve been saved over those 8 years not to mention the far fewer numbers of mistakes and scrapped parts.  Did I mention how much I like this thing?

  Anyway, here are a few pics of the items I had to deal with over & above the standard installation tips you gentlemen posted above.  Thanks very much for all your help.  

  My X3 has a Grizz X-axis power feed installed (couple years ago) which makes the Y-axis reader bracket a little bit awkward.  I just juggled the supplied kit brackets a bit and fitted it around the unit with it run fully to the right. 

  You can also see the aluminum scale mounting pads on the Y axis.  That was one of the hardest things to get right since the X3 casting is angled in all directions & lumpy.  I milled the inner face of the pads to match the angle, spot glued them to a straight bar to keep the outer faces aligned and juggled it around  to fit & glued the pads on with super glue after cleaning & roughing up 2 spots on the side.  The rear one fit pretty well but the side of the casting was twisted and the front one had a gap at the top.  I filled the gap with epoxy filler & once that cured, drilled & tapped the mounting holes.  I was able get the scale dialed in to less than a thou at full travels so I guess I did OK.




 


  The electrical cable glands on the bottom of the case hit the scale body at full travel so I had to shift them over about an inch.  You can see I took the lazy way out & cut connecting slots between the holes so the wires could be slid across without unplugging everything.  I told myself it increased the cooling airflow as well.











  I scratched my head a bit on the Z-axis reader bracket and ended up using stuff I had lying around to get it mounted.  It&#8217;s slotted in all needed directions and once tightened up was very rigid and I was able to dial it in almost perfectly.





  I&#8217;ve done a few jobs with it now and am still grinning ear to ear!  I&#8217;m still figuring out the various onboard functions and I&#8217;m sure there are a multitude of time-saving tricks to learn as time goes by.

  Cheers!


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## Pete. (Mar 1, 2015)

Glad all worked out - your install looks great.
Pete


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