# Horizontal IC Engine 5/8" Bore



## cfellows (Oct 7, 2014)

About time to get started on another engine.  This will the smallest IC engine I've attempted with a 5/8" bore and 1.25" stroke.  I want this to be another slow running engine and I think this is about as small as I can go without it sounding like a weed whacker.







Didn't have a beer can for scale, so I had to fabricate one, 12oz by the way.  The cylinder will be made from cast iron.  I decided to go with air cooling because it's so much simpler than water cooling.  The flywheel is 5.5", which is quite large for this size engine, more like some of the really early Crosley and Daimler engines.  Hopefully this will let me attain the slower idle speeds I'm looking for.  The engine will be throttled using the simple carburetor I designed.  I'm going to try really hard to provide the drawings for parts as I go along.

I'm toying with the idea of trying this CAM setup instead of the traditional geared cam...






Chuck


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## kadora (Oct 8, 2014)

Hello
Only for information.
This CAM set up use Mr Krnmuller in his 
Daimler 1885 model engine.
http://www.classic-motors.at


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## AussieJimG (Oct 8, 2014)

Well of course you would try a different cam.

This looks like another project that I will be watching with interest.

Jim


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## Herbiev (Oct 8, 2014)

Settling in for another great post


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 8, 2014)

Good stuff, Chuck. I will be following.---Brian


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## bazmak (Oct 9, 2014)

Hi brian,when i finish the beam engine i would like to make an ic engine
Dont know anything about them perhaps you can suggest/advise me
Simple as possible,interesting/slow movement and simple plans at a decent scale
for a free download.General questions.what fuel,ignition spark plug ad infinitum
Best regards barry


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## werowance (Oct 9, 2014)

That cam design would definately be intersting to sit and watch for hours,  i like it,  looking forward to watching the build.


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## cfellows (Oct 10, 2014)

Here's my first go at making a cam disk.  It's made of brass and the groove was cut with a 3/32" end mill.  I may have to go with a smaller groove, maybe 1/16", although even 3/32" is going to be tough to make a shuttle for.  I'm going to try to get the 3/32" to work.











 Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 10, 2014)

Bazmac--By all means, build a Webster for your first I.C. engine.  Chuck--That's an interesting bit of machining.---brian
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=7687


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## cfellows (Oct 10, 2014)

Thanks, Brian.  Did with CNC.

 Here is a photo of my second attempt at a shuttle, machined using CNC on the end of a 3/8" steel rod.  I had to file it down some to get it to ride the groove all the way round.






 Preliminary results are promising although I'll need to lash it up in a functional assembly to see if it's going to work.  I think a thinner shuttle running in a thinner groove would follow better and I may have to resort to that but I'll try to get this one working first.

 Chuck


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## cfellows (Oct 11, 2014)

Last night I was trying to fit a bearing to the cam follower when it popped out of my vise and disappeared into nether regions of my shop.  So, I stopped for the night and today a made a new one.

 Since I had to make a new cam follower I decided to modify the cam disk with a 1/16" groove instead of 3/32".   Since I had plenty of meat on it,  I mounted the cam in my lathe and faced off the 3/32" groove.  Then, using a 1/16" end mill, I milled a new groove along the same profile.






 I did a bit more research on this cam style and discovered that I had the profile wrong on the follower I had made.  So, the new cam follower has a crescent shape rather than the eye shape.  I chucked the 3/8" rod with the cam follower shape on the end and prepared to neck down the back of it for a ball bearing race.






 Then I parted it off and fitted the 5/32" ID ball bearing to the back of the cam follower.  Here is the follower with the bearing sitting in the groove on the cam disk.






 I did a preliminary test by mounting the cam disk in my mini lathe and held the cam follower in my fingers as I spun the lathe over slowly.  It seems to track exactly as it's supposed to, so I'm pumped.  So, now I'll design he carrier for the cam follower and we'll see where that leads me.


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## cfellows (Oct 12, 2014)

I feel confident enough about the gearless cam arrangement so I'm back to working on the engine design and drawings.

 I've attached the drawing of the engine frame.  It may go through some changes so I'll try to give a heads up if that happens.

 Chuck


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## crueby (Oct 12, 2014)

Glad I am not the only one to have little parts pop out of the vise and 'hide' themselves somewhere....

Very interesting start - going to be following along! ... where IS that popcorn?...


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## cfellows (Oct 12, 2014)

crueby said:


> Glad I am not the only one to have little parts pop out of the vise and 'hide' themselves somewhere....
> 
> Very interesting start - going to be following along! ... where IS that popcorn?...



Thanks, the lost part reappeared today.  I decided to give the shop a thorough cleaning before I start making chips and I found the part laying on the floor.  Strange I couldn't find it the other night.

 I've attached the preliminary drawings for the Cylinder and the Head.  Again, these might change.

 I'm doing the drawings in Visio and when everything is done, I'll use Visio to publish the entire set of drawings into a single PDF file.  These preliminary drawings are more to give folks an idea of how this will go together.  Hopefully I'll get some feedback if anyone notices any glaring errors or omissions!

 Chuck


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## tornitore45 (Oct 12, 2014)

Me think the shuttle should look like a "moon sliver"  two arcs intersecting to pilot itself in the right loop.  A lozenge shaped shuttle can go either way.

Is the assemble engine a rendition?   Great 3D drawing .

I did not see the new follower when I wrote this. Sorry.


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## cfellows (Oct 13, 2014)

tornitore45 said:


> Me think the shuttle should look like a "moon sliver"  two arcs intersecting to pilot itself in the right loop.  A lozenge shaped shuttle can go either way.
> 
> Is the assemble engine a rendition?   Great 3D drawing .
> 
> I did not see the new follower when I wrote this. Sorry.



Hey, Mauro, thanks for dropping in.  The drawing was all done in Microsoft Visio.  It has gadient shading capability which gives the illusion of 3D.  Very helpful in visualizing things while still basically in 2D.


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## cfellows (Oct 13, 2014)

Meager beginnings.  I spent most of the day doing a deep cleaning of my shop.  Cleared off and vacuumed all the work surfaces, lathe and mill.  Did a bit of reorganizing vacuumed the entire floor, even under things as far as I could reach.  It's amazing how much a clean shop motivates a person to do something creative, kind of like blank canvas I suppose.

So, I started on the frame.  I cut a couple of 3.3" lengths from a 1.5 x 1.5 x .25 piece of angle iron.






I cut one leg of each piece with my bandsaw, then used an end mill to finish off the outer edge.  






Finally, I milled them down to 3.25" long, squaring up the cylinder end in the process.  Next I'll cut and mill the height down to 1.25" and mill the curved section in the side.

Chuck


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## cfellows (Oct 13, 2014)

I spent about 4 hours in the shop today getting the engine frame pretty well together.  After markup, I started with some band saw work...






 Then it was on to the mill...






 I cut the arcs by plunge milling with a half inch end mill, starting at the outer edge and moving in about .030" for each plunge until I reached the bottom of the area to be shaped.  I then used the band saw to cut out the waste and finished with an end mill.






 Then I shaped the curve on the back of the frame, this time using a 5/16" end mill.






 Here, I've got everything super-glued together.  The 3/4" bar in the middle is a spacer to hold the two outside frame members parallel and property spaced.  I had already drilled the holes in the bottom plate.  I inverted this assembly and used those holes to mark and partially drill the holes in the frame sides.  Super glue works pretty well, but only for making a small start with the drill bit.  Invariably the glue lets go if there is too much heat or vibration.






 After drilling and tapping the holes in the frame sides, I enlarged and counter bored the holes in the base plate.  The following pictures show the assembly bolted together.  
















 Next it's on to the front frame member that will hold the cylinder.
 Chuck


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## cfellows (Oct 16, 2014)

Today I worked on the Crankshaft.  I started with a piece of 1" x .375" cold rolled steel 3.5" long.  Here I've made cuts to relieve all the stresses and laid out the rough lines.  These lines are just for reference.






 After I had made the cuts, I measured and drilled 2 center holes on each end, one for the main journal and one for the connecting rod journal.  These were done in the milling machine vise, using the DRO to make the measurements.  Here I've got the blank mounted between centers in the lathe, ready to cut the connecting rod journal.






 In this next picture, I've finished cutting the connecting rod journal






 And here I've cut away the waste






 And this final picture shows the finished crankshaft.  The journals are all 5/16".






 Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 16, 2014)

Chuck--Your pictures aren't showing in your most recent post.---Brian


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## cfellows (Oct 16, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Chuck--Your pictures aren't showing in your most recent post.---Brian



Hmmm, I can see them just fine...  Anybody else?

Chuck


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## weez (Oct 16, 2014)

cfellows said:


> Hmmm, I can see them just fine...  Anybody else?
> 
> Chuck



I can see them.


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## hitnmiss49 (Oct 17, 2014)

I see them fine.


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## cfellows (Oct 17, 2014)

Got some more stuff done today.  I got the crankshaft, bearings and caps all installed.  I started off using a 1/2" ball nose end mill to cut the frame to receive the crankshaft main bearings.












 The main bearings were turned from cast iron...











 And, finally, I finished the main caps, drilled and tapped the holes for the screws and put it all together.
















 Next, I'll get started on the cylinder.

 Chuck


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## gus (Oct 17, 2014)

Another engine to build on my build list. Looks like I have to stop fishing for a while.
Will follow your post closely. Just came from a very good deep sea fishing trip in wild Sarawak.
Fishing biting like crazy. Good eating fish---------Red Snappers.
The native head hunters missed Gus!!!.Gus survived. Oops.That was 100 years ago.


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## cfellows (Oct 18, 2014)

Thanks, Gus, this one has plans in the making so there's no excuse not to give it a try!

 So, instead of sitting in my recliner in front of the laptop all night, I spent some more quality time in my shop making the cylinder.
















 It looks a little chunkier than I had thought it would, but it'll do for now.  The bore is only 0.625" but I left enough meat around it that I can bore it out to 0.750" if I need to.  So, perhaps tomorrow I'll get on to the head.

 Chuck


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## Gedeon Spilett (Oct 18, 2014)

The way you hold the pieces outside the vice, post#18, clever as usual...


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## cfellows (Oct 18, 2014)

Gedeon Spilett said:


> The way you hold the pieces outside the vice, post#18, clever as usual...


 
 Thanks!

 Today I made the cylinder head.  I started with a piece of cast iron, turned it down to 1.5" and  shouldered down the outboard end to 15/16".  Then I reversed it in the chuck and drilled it through the center with a 9mm bit.  I  cut a 5/8" diameter, 1/4" deep recess in the bottom side for the combustion chamber.  I mounted the piece on my rotary table and drilled and counter bored the 6 holes for the head bolts.  I drilled and tapped a 1/4" model pipe taper in the side for the intake and exhaust.  Finally, I tapped the spark plug hole 10mm x 1mm.   Here's the finished product.
















 Next I got started on the piston.  It's 5/8" diameter and 1" long.  






 However, I need to finalize the design of the connecting rod before I finish the piston.

 Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 19, 2014)

I can see them now.--Must have been a local server issue.---Brian


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## cfellows (Oct 20, 2014)

A few more pictures with the beginnings of a flywheel...
















 The flywheel rim in the picture is the remnant of a cast iron flywheel from a previous life which had some broken spokes.  It's about 5.25" diameter which is quite large for this size engine, but it's just what I wanted.  I'll mill a spoked flywheel center from aluminum and heat shrink it into the cast iron rim.  As they say, waste not, want not...

 Chuck


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## RonGinger (Oct 20, 2014)

I went back to look at #18, and I dont quite gt it. Is that a block with a cap on it- kind of T shaped- in the vise Holding down on the work?


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## cfellows (Oct 20, 2014)

RonGinger said:


> I went back to look at #18, and I dont quite gt it. Is that a block with a cap on it- kind of T shaped- in the vise Holding down on the work?



Yes, that's a cap that screws down on a block that's held in the vice.  The block has recessed lip on the top which acts as the bottom jaw of a vice, the cap being the top jaw.

Got the center section of the flywheel done today.  I drew up the design in Visio, processed it with CamBam, then used my CNC mill drill to cut the piece fromf 1/4" thick aluminum.











I was going to heat shrink the rim over the aluminum center, but unfortunately I turned the ID on the center to a smooth fit rather than an interference fit.  So, I've tried Loctite 620 to see if that'll hold it.  It held fine during the machining operation so we'll see.

Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Oct 21, 2014)

Chuck--I am still plagued by that very same thing. It's absolutely unbelievable how little material there is between "press fit" and "Damn--It fell through!!!!"----Brian


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## gus (Oct 21, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Chuck--I am still plagued by that very same thing. It's absolutely unbelievable how little material there is between "press fit" and "Damn--It fell through!!!!"----Brian




Somehow and every heavy coupling I field fitted on to the huge Ingersoll-Rand Air Compressors had their interference fit spot on.Went to Ingersoll-Rand Painted Post Plant and had the chance to meet the machinist who bored the couplings and shook his hand. He was an elderly man who worked on the huge engine lathe for last 40 years. You may like to know,he used inside calipers only with tranfer dimension from an outside micrometer. Inside micrometers are garbage to him.


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## cfellows (Oct 22, 2014)

I think there are a couple of reasons I have problems with interference fits.  I don't have micrometer's larger than 2" so have to depend on my calipers.  Even so, if I were careful, I could probably use transfer dimensions to do a better job.

 The other problem I have is that I'm lazy about keeping the tool bit sharp, which makes it difficult to get to an exact dimension.  

 However, I think the Loctite is going to do the trick.


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## gus (Oct 22, 2014)

Good ''Old Loctite'' . Gus has yet to achieve his real DIY shrink fit.:hDe:


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## tornitore45 (Oct 23, 2014)

You would think it is obvious that a good finish is essential to get an accurate measure for a fit.  It took me several miss to learn that.


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## cfellows (Oct 24, 2014)

tornitore45 said:


> You would think it is obvious that a good finish is essential to get an accurate measure for a fit. It took me several miss to learn that.



 You would think... However, my impatience and eternal optimism tend to cause problems me now and then.


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## Herbiev (Oct 24, 2014)

You would think... However, my impatience and eternal optimism tend to cause problems 

Chuck, I'm glad I'm not the only one that suffers from this


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## cfellows (Oct 25, 2014)

I'm at a bit of a stop for the moment while I try to figure out the design for the part that attaches to the frame near the crankshaft and holds the pushrod to the cam disk.   I like to take my time and come up with something that looks good but still functions properly.

 Chuck


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## cfellows (Oct 25, 2014)

I settled on a design for the push rod carrier.  Started with a piece of 1/4" thick steel, 3/8" wide and a little over 1" long.  Mostly used the milling machine to shape it...












 A single screw will go through a horizontal slot in the push rod and attach to the threaded hole at the top of the mount. 

 Chuck


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## cfellows (Oct 25, 2014)

Started work on the intake/exhaust assembly this evening.  Guess you could call this part the manifold.  The intake valve cage attaches to the front and the exhaust cage to the back.
















 I started with a 1/2" x 1/2" piece of square hot roll.  The large hole is 5/16" diameter and will receive the intake valve cage on one side and the exhaust on the other.  The spigot that screws into the head is 1/4" diameter and is threaded 1/4-40 model pipe taper.











 Next I'll start on the valve cages.

 Chuck


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## AussieJimG (Oct 26, 2014)

That's coming along nicely Chuck, 

Jim


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## cfellows (Oct 26, 2014)

AussieJimG said:


> That's coming along nicely Chuck,
> 
> Jim


 
 Thanks, Jim.

 I decided the manifold made from 1/2" square bar was a bit too bulky looking so I remade it from 3/8" square bar.  And, I got a decent start on the valve cages. 











 Still have to drill and tap the mounting holes.  I'll use 1-72 SHCS's to mount the cages to the manifold.  This is a new level of smallness for me so it will be interesting.  The valves will be made from 3/16" drill rod.    Tomorrow I'll see if my local fastener supply store has 1-72 screws.  I'm not hopeful, but they've surprised me before.

 Chuck


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## cfellows (Oct 27, 2014)

Today I made the valves from 3/16" drill Rod (aren't they cute?).  I've included a picture of the first manifold I made from 1/2" bar stock for comparison to the new one made from 3/8" square bar.






 And here's how it all fits together...






 In this picture, I've cut the grooves and installed the E-Clips which will hold the valves in place.  I've also drilled and tapped the 1-72 mounting holes for the valve cages to the manifold.






 Couldn't find any 1/2" long, 1-72 socket head cap screws locally so had to order some from Ebay.  Probably won't get them until Friday, so I guess I'll move on to the push rod assembly next.

 Chuck


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## cfellows (Oct 28, 2014)

I revisited the Cam Disk on Wayne Grenning's model of the 1883 Daimler engine and realized my design was all wrong.  So I redrew it and milled a new one.  This one, engraved on a 1" disk is smaller than the first which was 1.25".   Here's a video of the CNC mill doing it's thing...

 [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sXzMdXvEuY&list=UUZB8pRNp9Plbd0-T9RmyR9g[/ame]

 And here's a picture of the finished cam...






 I'm anticipating this thing will probably not work right out of the chute and will require some tweeking, perhaps remaking, etc.  

 Chuck


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## AussieJimG (Oct 29, 2014)

I have also been thinking about the previous cam profile which appeared to be basically two circles. Not quite what is needed (but would probably work on this model).

I think we really need a normal cam profile on one revolution and a base circle on the next but I am not sure how to achieve this (or what the slider would look like). Lying in bed trying to visualise it didn't work so now I need to draw it and play. It is an interesting problem that someone who knows about railway points would probably solve immediately.

Jim


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## cfellows (Oct 29, 2014)

It is an interesting problem, Jim.  One thing that complicates the issue is that the grooves have to be at a pretty good angle to each other where they intersect so the shuttle won't get "confused" as to which path to take.


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## Cogsy (Oct 29, 2014)

I'm not sure a normal cam profile on one revolution would be ideal. Remember this disc will spin at twice the RPM of a normal cam so the profile has to be stretched out.

It's a very intriguing design, I just wish I had CNC so I could have a go at it too.


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## AussieJimG (Nov 1, 2014)

I keep playing with cam design (when I should be doing other things). I have tried constant velocity and constant acceleration for the lifting part but I can't find a really classy design for the rest of it.

It's an interesting exercise. But I will probably give up soon or be distracted by some other new thought.

Jim


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## cfellows (Nov 3, 2014)

Here is a video that will hopefully clear things up a bit.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-g1FRLrs6Ls&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

Several times I almost decided to convert the engine over to a standard geared cam, but in the end I'm really glad I stuck it out.  This thing seems to be working really well.  The only concern I have at this point is how well it's going to wear.  Hopefully, by keeping it clean and well lubricated, it'll stand the test of time.

Chuck


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## ShopShoe (Nov 4, 2014)

Chuck,

I'm glad you're sticking with this. It's a different design and really makes this project interesting. Hopefully, it will wear well in practice.

--ShopShoe


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## AussieJimG (Nov 4, 2014)

That's great Chuck, it works well and the valve stays open much longer than I thought it would.

And now I can stop playing with cam shapes and get on with some of the things I should have been doing.

Jim


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## Looper7 (Nov 5, 2014)

I'm still trying to wrap my head around how it stays on the right track.  Congratulations Chuck On making it work.  I like it


Jeff


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## gus (Nov 5, 2014)

Plan to build this engine but the cam is impossible as I have no CNC mill.


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## ShopShoe (Nov 6, 2014)

Gus,

I think you could do it. If your rotary table is on top of your X-Y table, you can reverse engineer it so that you would move X or Y the distance of cam actuation distance at a given part(s) of the 720 degrees of rotary table rotation.

Perhaps math wizards could provide a math function that would generate a table of values for mill table and rotary table movements to be followed.

As I seem to be attention-span-limited in my old age I would print the table and add a column to be checked as each step is completed.

Unfortunately, As much as I am intrigued by this type of cam I am not in a position to try it myself as I am not getting enough shop time because of home-improvement projects and several relatives that need help with daily life.

The whole concept is interesting and I think most of us are in this hobby (at least those who stay in the hobby) enjoy the challenges as much or more than the finished products we can put on display.

Good Luck,

--ShopShoe


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## cfellows (Nov 6, 2014)

Maybe this will help.  Here is a picture showing the segments by quadrant of the cam disk.






 The groove was cut with a 1/16" end mill and is 1/16" deep.  The dimensions listed are to the center of the groove.  The fixed radius arcs are easy enough to cut on a rotary table.  The segments in the quadrants where the radius is steadily change would be a challenge. 

 This drawing is for a 1.25" diameter cam disk and I actually scaled my down to 1.125".

 I'm happy to field any questions although I may not know the answer.  :-[

 Chuck


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## Swifty (Nov 6, 2014)

Now there's a challenge, it could be done with a rotary table mounted on a mill with digital readout. The main rads are no problem, when it comes to the transition between the inside and outside rads, a series of X Y coordinates worked out on CAD would allow you to slowly use the mill table to machine the rest. The more coordinates that you have the smoother the transition.

Paul.


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## cfellows (Nov 8, 2014)

I'm doing fiddly-bit work now.  Today I worked on the intake manifold.  Here's a picture of the finished assembly.  The intake manifold part is loctited into the valve cage...






 I started with a piece of 1/4" x 1/2" cold rolled steel.  Chucked it in the lathe and cut a 3/16" spigot on the end.   I also turned down the rectangular part to 7/16" diameter, also radiused to 7/16".  After cutting it free, I chucked the spigot into my mini lathe and faced off the outer end that the carburetor will attach to.  Then I mounted it in my milling vice.  In the following picture, I'm centering the hole under the milling spindle...






 Then I used the DRO to locate and drill the 1-72 screw holes.






 And, here's what it looks like on the engine.











 Next I need to wind a spring for the intake valve.

 Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 8, 2014)

Chuck--I just checked in my machinists handbook, and the maximum o.d. of a #1-72 fastener is .073".  that is REALLY small. Hard for me to imagine putting a thread that small in to mild steel. Amazing work!!---Brian


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## cfellows (Nov 8, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Chuck--I just checked in my machinists handbook, and the maximum o.d. of a #1-72 fastener is .073". that is REALLY small. Hard for me to imagine putting a thread that small in to mild steel. Amazing work!!---Brian


 
 Thanks, Brian.  I actually have better luck with the smaller threads.  I've gone down to 0-80 in aluminum.  I think 4-40 is the worst.  I've broken more 4-40 taps than any other.


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## Lawijt (Nov 9, 2014)

Looks good Chuck.


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## cfellows (Nov 13, 2014)

Lawijt said:


> Looks good Chuck.



Thanks!


Today I mostly finished the carburetor.  












 I still have to finish the needle valve and the throttle screw.  Then it's on to the hall sensor mount, and finally, the fuel tank.

 Chuck


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## cfellows (Nov 19, 2014)

Well, I'm in the home stretch.  Over the past few days I finished the carburetor, including the needle valve.  Then I installed the hall sensor and the magnet disk.  I also made a permanent base out of walnut and 1/2" plywood.  Finally, I built a proper fuel tank, including a fuel line made from 3/32" copper tubing.  I made my own flared fittings that connects the fuel line to the tank and the carburetor.  
















 Literally, the only thing left to do is to fit a Tamiya connector to the hall sensor line so I can plug it in to my ignition module.  Hopefully the next posting will be a video of the engine running!!!  

 Chuck


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 19, 2014)

Well---thank goodness!!! I have been checking this thread every day to see what was going to happen next. Looks really good!!---Brian


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## cfellows (Nov 19, 2014)

Brian Rupnow said:


> Well---thank goodness!!! I have been checking this thread every day to see what was going to happen next. Looks really good!!---Brian



Thanks, Brian, here's the icing on the cake...

So, back in the shop, I added a ground wire and attached the Tamiya connector to the hall sensor.  I fueled it up and gave it a few spins with my model airplane starter motor.  I had to fiddle with it a bit, but I had it running in less than 10 minutes.  Here's the video!

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vjm21ui_dvY&feature=youtu.be[/ame]

Still got some finishing up to do, but I'm pumped!

Chuck


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## Cogsy (Nov 19, 2014)

Congrats - your cam works perfectly and it is an intriguing design. Especially impressive how silent it seems run (apart from the exhaust pop). I hadn't fully appreciated how noisy cam gears really are until they're removed.


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## Swifty (Nov 19, 2014)

Another job well done Chuck, looks great and runs nicely.

Paul.


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 20, 2014)

Amazing stuff!!!---Congratulations.--Brian


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## ShopShoe (Nov 20, 2014)

That's great. Such a nice steady beat while it's running. Congratulations on the quick startup.

Thanks,

--ShopShoe


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## werowance (Nov 20, 2014)

Nice Job.  so quiet and smoothe running.   congratulations!


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## Chiptosser (Nov 20, 2014)

Excellent!!  I really like the cam set-up, Chuck.

Dale


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## AussieJimG (Nov 20, 2014)

A great job and beautifully finished. That cam is a joy to watch.

Jim


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## Herbiev (Nov 20, 2014)

Another work of art. Great fun following this project. Thanks for sharing Chuck


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## gus (Nov 21, 2014)

The cam works very well and the engine runs smooth and solid.
Congrats.


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## apointofview (Nov 24, 2014)

Thats a really interesting engine Chuck, thanks for doing such a good job on documenting how you built it and how it works.

I have seen several comments on wanting to build something like you did but the lack of CNC is going to stop them.  Do you know how the guys in the 1883 fabricated the cam ? They might have had electricity but no CNC for sure !

Pete


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## cfellows (Nov 25, 2014)

Thanks gus... Thanks Pete.  Don't really know how the machinists would have fashioned that CAM back in 1883.  Perhaps they rigged some kind of follower or duplicator to machine it using a hand made pattern.  

Chuck


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## dsage (Feb 22, 2015)

Hi Chuck:

I'm trying to duplicate the drawing of your cam. In the drawing you posted quite a ways back (#57) you have a constant radius dimension of 18" which is throwing me a bit. Possibly a typo, it's tough to read, but I can't guess what it should be.
Also you show a change in radius from .5 to .25 but the radius of the curve from those transitions across the disk is obviously quite a bit larger.
Would it be possible for you to explain that further or post your dxf file for the cam? I have no particular use for it at the moment but I tend to keep these things for future reference.

Nice work.

Thanks

Sage


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## cfellows (Feb 23, 2015)

dsage said:


> Hi Chuck:
> 
> I'm trying to duplicate the drawing of your cam. In the drawing you posted quite a ways back (#57) you have a constant radius dimension of 18" which is throwing me a bit. Possibly a typo, it's tough to read, but I can't guess what it should be.
> Also you show a change in radius from .5 to .25 but the radius of the curve from those transitions across the disk is obviously quite a bit larger.
> ...



Wow, that was quite a typo!  The smaller radius should be 0.375.  The forum won't let me upload a DXF file.

Thx...
Chuck


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## dsage (Feb 23, 2015)

Thanks Chuck:

Sage


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