# home-brewed workbench



## ttrikalin (Dec 12, 2010)

I have very light machines -- I play with a sherline mill and lathe, so a couple of IKEA tables was all I had. 
I do detailed work mostly, and I like standing up. So I saw in the car shop that they had this nice high bench, -- by high I mean 42", and I liked it a lot. 

So I decided to make a tall workbench for meself. Trawling the interweb I found suggestions that the optimal height for detailed work seem to be 6" above your wrist level (for me this is at 41-42"). 

This is my first ever wood project. Lumber (2x4's mostly).







Lumber. 






and lumber (2x10's)






Workbench complete, on medium duty lockable casters and moves around very easily, which I love. Again, i do not do very heavy work, so this construction is super robust. It was a bit of a task to plane the sides of the 2x10 boards to match flush to each other. Next weekend I will plane to top surface... or I may find an excuse and let it be... I have a garden variety hand plane and limited time... I'd rather machine or do electronics...






Then I put a top shelf, and installed power outlets and a fluorescent light. A 12 gauge 25 feet cable can connect this to one of several wall outlets. I decided to put the CNC mill on this bench. The power source and the stepper driver have been installed on the top shelf (barely visible). Will update when it's up and running.






take care, 

tom in MA


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## joe d (Dec 12, 2010)

Tom

Looking good. If I could make a suggestion, cover the top with a piece of tempered hardboard (masonite) stuck
on with a couple or six counter-sunk wood-screws. That way, all the inevitable scratches, gouges, oil and paint spills
can be cleaned up by replacing the sacrificial top... 

cheers, Joe


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## ttrikalin (Dec 12, 2010)

joe d  said:
			
		

> If I could make a suggestion, cover the top with a piece of tempered hardboard (masonite) stuck
> on with a couple or six counter-sunk wood-screws. That way, all the inevitable scratches, gouges, oil and paint spills
> can be cleaned up by replacing the sacrificial top...



Me like. Plus it gives the excuse not to plane the top surface. 

t


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## bentprop (Dec 12, 2010)

Nice bench,Tom.But I was going to suggest something like Joe,a sheet of hardboard,or light aluminium on top.
If you use any cutting oil,or similar,I would suggest at least some sort of oil stain on the wood,or better still a coating of clear epoxy paint.There's nothing more unsightly than an oil trail running down the leg,and with epoxy paint,you can just give it a quick wipe down and you're good to go.
And this is your first wood project?I'd better not show my efforts,you'd roll over the floor laughing at my incompetence :big:


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## seagar (Dec 13, 2010)

Hay Tom,your not only apritty face but a handy man as well. :big:

Ian.


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## Andrew_D (Dec 13, 2010)

joe d  said:
			
		

> Looking good. If I could make a suggestion, cover the top with a piece of tempered hardboard (masonite) stuck
> on with a couple or six counter-sunk wood-screws. That way, all the inevitable scratches, gouges, oil and paint spills
> can be cleaned up by replacing the sacrificial top...



I used a piece of kitchen counter from someone's renos. Easy to grab if you have friends in the contracting business. I tried asking a cabinet-maker once to save counters for me...he said the kitchen is usually gutted by the time he gets there 

As long as the finish isn't wore right through, they are easy to wipe down.

The piece that I used was a light beige color, so it's easy to see where you set something down.

Andrew


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## ttrikalin (Dec 13, 2010)

Andrew_D  said:
			
		

> I used a piece of kitchen counter from someone's renos.



that's bloody brilliant. 
t


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## bearcar1 (Dec 13, 2010)

seagar  said:
			
		

> Hay Tom,your not only apritty face but a handy man as well. :big:
> 
> Ian.



Oh a smooth talker that one is... he says. :big:

Great looking bench Tom, and I too would suggest tempered masonite on the top. Maybe a "modesty panel" added to the rear legs to keep the side to side movement down. Nicely done.

BC1
Jim


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## zeeprogrammer (Dec 13, 2010)

I used masonite on the benches I built. Takes every stain and likes to soak things up...but for me, that adds to the character.

Over time people will know that that one dark spot is where my forearm rested.

I wonder about formica though. I don't see much said about it. Seems cheap enough and wouldn't it not be subject to soaking things up?


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## agmachado (Jan 15, 2011)

Hi Tom,

Very nice your shop !

My first lathe will arrive to the end of month... I am anxious! After I will buy a mill... Inicially I will try use the machines in a bed room of my home (see attachment).

The problem is where I will save my drums... eheheheh

Cheers,

Alexandre


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## itowbig (Jan 15, 2011)

i can see it now many many more tools coming in your future and not much room to move around  hahahaha
looking good man


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## ironman (Jan 15, 2011)

Good going Tom.  Thm:  Before long you might become a master carpenter.

ironman (Ray)


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## rleete (Jan 15, 2011)

I just visited a friend's wood shop, and he had covered the tops of all the benches with laminate flooring.  Looks like wood, petty rugged surface (like formica), and easily replaceable if damaged.


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## Troutsqueezer (Jan 16, 2011)

I put masonite on my bench but it's bowed up in between the screws (of which there are many) in the cold weather this winter. I'm going for a one piece linoleum top next.


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 16, 2011)

Troutsqueezer  said:
			
		

> I'm going for a one piece linoleum top next.



Would oils or solvents be a problem?
I've thought about formica...would that shatter?


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## Omnimill (Jan 16, 2011)

I have "industrial" benches at work that have Lino coated tops which have been very durable. I've therefore used Lino on my own benches.

Vic.


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## Allthumbz (Feb 9, 2011)

Tom, 

you did great. The only other thing I would add, since you probably had extra 2x4 left over, (and I know it is overkill) would be some sway braces between the legs. This could simply be 2x4 about half way between the legs, or diagonally. You won't need this for the light machines you are running, but when you move the table is when things have a tendency to want to move out of alignment, especially if you lean on the table like I do.


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## Omnimill (Feb 10, 2011)

Good point. As an alternative you could use a sheet of ply. I use both forms of bracing on my benches.

Vic.


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## dparker (Feb 10, 2011)

Tom: When I purchased my lathe in 1968 I had it shipped to my parents place as I lived in a small apartment and had no room. Dad and I had unloaded computer equipment for the telephone company a few months before while I was home on vacation. We were told we could keep all the bracing for the panels. They were all 4"x4" about 8' long. Most of them turned into work benches, one of which supports my lathe. Dad bolted several together with redi-rod for the top of the bench. Before mounting the lathe he glued down white Formica to give a brighter area to work in. This is also really nice because I can write the measurements I want on it with a pencil and it will just wipe off. The chips brush off easily and I put old cookie sheets under the lathe to catch what chips I can and any oil I use, this makes for a quite easy cleanup.
The Formica would not be very good for the top of a bench that was going to take any abuse from hammering on it but it works very good for me for over 40 years, admittedly it is a little scratched up by now but still very usable.




Shown on the lathe is some of my homemade tooling and purchased tooling. Picture was taken for insurance purposes if ever needed but at least it will give you a idea of some options for a bench top.
don


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## ttrikalin (Feb 12, 2011)

I followed your advice, guys (not a single gal!), and put side panels for stability and a 3/4 inch board. 
added a few details... will post pics.

tom in MA


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