# Building Hit or Miss Claire Engine



## Jack B (Jan 28, 2010)

My next and second engine that I plan to try is a " Hit' N Miss" engine designed by Philip Duclos. This engine will be very different then the Horizontal Steam Engine that was my first build. The plans are printed in The Home Shop Machinist September/October of 1995 and the next three issues. I had a subscription to The Home Machinist for a number of years. I am lucky I kept most all my issues. A sad note Mr Duclos died in the Winter of 1993 the same year I retired. Before that date he had designed several engines and sent them to the publication. This one was called "The Maverick Engine" by Mr Duclos. I am going to call mine Miss Claire in honor to my wife who chases me out to the workshop every day for several hours to work on my projects. On a positive note Phil's work lives on in these little engines we so enjoy. 
Here is a shot of my work bench. There is a picture of the engine on the cover of the magazine.                         Jack B


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 28, 2010)

Excellent. Thanks for the invite.
I've gotten more and more interested in these engines...saw several at Cabin Fever.
I'll be watching.


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## slick95 (Jan 28, 2010)

JackB, 

Looking forward to your building progress. Mr. Duclos has some nice designs and it will be fun watching Miss Claire come together. I'm just finishing up the Duclos Odds N' Ends and its a nice runner.

Jeff


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## kcmillin (Jan 28, 2010)

Ive never built an IC engine, and I am verry interested in watching your project come along. It sounds like a prety cool little engine. Cant wait to see ya get started.

kel


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## slick95 (Jan 28, 2010)

Yea I just looked in my Two Shop Masters book and that is a real interesting engine...no gears for the exhaust valve action. Very cool 

Jeff


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## Jack B (Jan 29, 2010)

This will be a scratch build. I use whatever stock I have on hand. Some of my material came from a machine shop going out of business auction or it is scrap stock I have collected through the years. The first piece of stock I must cut up is a 1/2 inch thick piece of CRS. It is about the size of a baseball home plate. A friend gave it to me a while ago and said you can use it for something. So I will use it for the base and the side walls. Oh Oh ! first problem it's bigger then the capacity of my only foreign machine in the shop. It is a Rong Fu metal cutting band saw. Cutting Cap. is 4 1/2 inch round and 6 inches wide. It came from a yard sale cheap and cuts great. I will just have to stretch it.


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## Jack B (Jan 29, 2010)

Pieces of scrap are hung on saw to pull it through the cut.


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## Jack B (Jan 29, 2010)

With a little finagling with the vise I can almost cut 1/2 the way through.






I am almost at my limit but put two larger shims in the vise and got a little more depth by increaseing the angle. I then turned the stock over and made a cut almost meeting the other one. I then placed the stock in the bench vise and twisted it till it broke apart as shown in the next picture. This is the Base Plate I also cut the two Upright Body Plates while in the saw.


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## Jack B (Jan 29, 2010)

Squaring in the miller. I milled the Base Plate and the Body Plates one after the other because the widths were all the same size.


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## kcmillin (Jan 29, 2010)

Interesting technique with the vice on the saw. I have the same saw, and this will indeed come in handy. 

kel


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## Jack B (Jan 29, 2010)

Hi Zee  Welcome

Hi Jeff I like your comments,

Hi Kel This IC is a first for me. 

That little saw saves me a lot of work. My old method was a hacksaw OUCH.
                  Jack


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## Stan (Jan 29, 2010)

The secret to cutting long strips (up to 4.5" wide) is to mount a vise on the outside of the blade, such as several which have been shown on this board. You still have to control the weight of the blade but you can cut very long pieces.


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## Jack B (Jan 29, 2010)

Good tip Stan. There is always more then one way to do something. I knew I had a big piece of metal but didn't give it a thought till I got it in the saw. Those big pieces of steel are very difficult for me to handle now so I just take the easiest way for me to do the job. I got what I wanted out of it and the little saw did all the work. Thank you for commenting. I appreciate them.           Jack


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## Jack B (Jan 30, 2010)

I squared all three pieces one after another to length.






Checking with gage blocks for accuracy.






Layout just for guidelines.


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## Jack B (Jan 30, 2010)

Edge finder on end my zero point will be top right corner of stock. I have my vise stop set in the picture.






Edge finder on side.






Center drill for 8-32 cap screw hole.


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## Jack B (Jan 30, 2010)

These are the Up Right Body Plates number one and number two drilled and counter bored mounting holes.






Base mounting holes.






Top of Base. This view shows all the holes that go into the base. You can see by my math on the drawing that I was very careful to get the holes in the right places. They are all drilled and counter bored on the back side where necessary. I used an end mill for c-boring.
Jack


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## Jack B (Feb 2, 2010)

Mounting hole in Upright Body Plate to match Base. Vise locating stop at right.


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## Jack B (Feb 2, 2010)

Using tapping block to thread 8-32 holes. Soft jaws in circa 1867 Parker vise.






First sub-assembly of Base and Up Right Body Plates. They are shown positioned up side down.






Gage blocks show perfect width between Up Right Body Plates.


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## Jack B (Feb 3, 2010)

These are the two larger Brown & Sharpe tool holders for my Index miller. They hold a .500 tool shank and a .625 tool shank. They are needed for the large end mills I will be using to make two slots in one Up Right Body Plate. I will plunge them in succession to make the .875 diameter at the end of the slot.


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## Jack B (Feb 3, 2010)

A 6-32 threaded hole goes here in this slot. I will drill it first and tap later. Layout lines are for reference only. All dimensions are from upper right corner of piece.






A !/2 inch end mill will make the first plunge cut in center of .875 diameter.






First plunge cut taken to leave a floor thickness of .188.


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## Jack B (Feb 3, 2010)

A 5/8 and 3/4 inch end mills were used ahead of finish cut 7/8 end mill.







I am using a 3/8 end mill to finish the slot. It's easier on the old Index Miller.






The slot is finished to depth and width.


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## Jack B (Feb 3, 2010)

Second and last slot completed


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## slick95 (Feb 3, 2010)

Progress is really coming along Jack. I'm very interested in this engine as I have the book with plans and have studied it close. But for now I'll have your build to watch. Keep at it. Looks great 

Jeff


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 4, 2010)

That tapping block is a great idea. I'll be making one of those tonight.

I'll be watching!

Steve


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## Jack B (Feb 4, 2010)

Hi Jeff
Glad your watching your encouragement keeps me working at it steady. I have a nice heated shop but I can only work several hours a day. I love working in the shop and these projects are just great. Thanks for your interest.             Jack B


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## Jack B (Feb 4, 2010)

Hi Steve 
The tapping block is not fool proof but it is a great help. I was tapping a 6-32 blind hole a couple of days ago and the tap broke. I was using the tapping block and taking short turns of the tap wrench and got about 1/4 of an inch in. I was backing off on each turn. I was in steel and using Tap Majic. I was able to get the broken tap out with a pair of tweezers by turning it. I have confidence in that tapping block.                   Jack B


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## Jack B (Feb 6, 2010)

Continuing with the Upright Body Plates I am using the Rong Fu cut off saw to remove most of the stock on the corners for ease of milling.






Set up and ready to mill in the Index Vertical miller with a 1/2 inch four flute end mill.






 Milled to size. Next will 45 degree cut the corners.


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## Jack B (Feb 6, 2010)

Decorative angles being cut. Machining to the line is OK.






I am now machining the Spacer Block which is a rectangle shape an is being milled with a 1/2 inch end mill. The scrap round piece of aluminum stock was partially cut before and I am recycling it.






Machining the .875 dimension that is critical. The paper shims can be added to or subtracted for a perfect dimension.


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## Jack B (Feb 6, 2010)

The Spacer Block is positioned between the two Up Right Body Plates. The .875 dimension is very important to maintain spacing between the Body Plates. It will also serve as a motor mount. I was trying to be extra careful milling the Frame and Spacer Block. I can now start adding parts and it will look like progress is being made.
                                               Jack B


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## Jack B (Feb 8, 2010)

The (CRS) steel stock for the Cylinder is shown in the three jaw chuck. I have turned two diameters. The outer diameter is for holding purposes. The short diameter is for tool bit clearance so it makes a full cut and clears the chuck jaws. I have found in the past that a piece like this jammed against the jaws holds well for moderate cuts. This stock that was cut to a convenient length came from a scrap pile. 






A center hole is drilled and a live center is being used while doing the turning operations. This picture gives a good view of the holding technique.






1.500 Diameter is finished and .874 diameter by .406 length is being produced. The .874 diameter will be a tight sliding fit into the .875 hole in the Cylinder Head.


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## Jack B (Feb 8, 2010)

A series of step drills up to 23/32 are being used to open the hole that will finish at .750.






A boring bar is sharpened and centered.






Before the boring operation begins a dial indicator is used to check for concentricity. Sometime a piece can move slightly during drilling. This check only takes a few seconds. The piece is perfect for the boring operation.


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## Jack B (Feb 8, 2010)

The boring bar is just starting it's cut. This should true the bore to the outside diameter.






The .750 reamer is just exiting the bored hole. I left .005 for reaming.

------ I am looking for your comments on this question. The designer of the engine recommends lapping the reamed hole. When the engine cylinders were re bored during a rebuild on my 1928 Model A Ford the automotive machinist told me to rough up the cylinders with a hone and an electric drill. I did and after 25 years of continuous use the engine still runs great has a lot of pep and don't burn any oil. So I am asking for advice should I leave the bore a good ream finish or lap it smooth ?


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## Jack B (Feb 8, 2010)

The Cylinder is being cut off with a parting tool. 






It's nice to line the pieces up where they will go on the final assembly.


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## slick95 (Feb 8, 2010)

Jack

Looking great.  

I used a brake honing tool (for brake wheel cylinders) on my cylinder for my Duclos Odds N' Ends and made the rings according to the Duclos instructions and the compression just seems to get better each running of the engine.

I'm no expert here just followed the instructions and it worked, or I lucked out.

Jeff


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## Maryak (Feb 8, 2010)

Nice work Jack :bow: :bow:

I like the design from what you've shown so far.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (Feb 11, 2010)

Hi Jeff
Thanks for the reply. I have one of those small hones I will dig it out and give it a try. My computer has been acting up so I will be lucky if this message gets posted.               Jack B.


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## kcmillin (Feb 11, 2010)

Jack, 
 I love your step by step process on boreing a cylinder. How many drill sizes, or "steps", did you use before using the boring bar? 

  About the honing. I cannot be certain what the designer had in mind for this engine, but honing the bore creates a croshatch pattern in the cylinder wich gives the oil a place to hide and still lubricate without just simply getting wiped out of the way by the piston. With an open crank design like this, the honing is a pretty good idea.


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## Blogwitch (Feb 12, 2010)

Jack,

The way I do things, I would never bore AND ream.

I have a very good set of reamers up to 1/2", in 64ths, so that means I will ream if the bore is 1/2" and below. Trying to bore a long cylinder at those sizes can be a bit hit and miss with spring in the small boring tool. But on the other hand, I have been known to bore at small sizes, if I don't have a reamer to fit the requirement, but I will bore it like below, but put it thru with no cut on about double the amount.

Over half inch, I will bore the cylinder if at all possible, but finish off the boring by putting no cut on, a very fine feed, and run the tool in and out under power for maybe a dozen times. You will find that the finish is perfectly acceptable to either run straight away and let the engine bed itself in, I used to do it that way when making ic engines, or lap the piston to the bore for air/steam engines. If you use a rounded nose on your boring tool, you can get a bore finish like chrome.

If I needed to hone for an ic engine, invariably I would use a brake cylinder honing tool, starting with rough blocks and finishing off with very fine, to end up with superfine scoring to hold the oil. Brake cylinder hones are very cheap, but are limited by the size they will go down to, mine is about 3/4" minimum.

I think all ways have their own merits for the maker, it is just a matter of finding one that is suitable and acceptable to yourself, and then stick with it.


Blogs


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## Jack B (Feb 12, 2010)

Hi Bob
Thank you for your encouragement. I have more pictures to show but my computer is in the shop getting repaired. the pictures are in the computer.            Jack B


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## Jack B (Feb 12, 2010)

Hi Blogs
I appreciate your advice. Thanks for replying to my question. You bring up some very good points.       Jack B


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## Jack B (Feb 12, 2010)

Hi Kel
Glad you like my postings. I used three drills before the one in the picture which is 23/32. I bored within .005 and finished with the reamer. Your cat is cute.         Jack B


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## Jack B (Feb 19, 2010)

Hi friends: My computer has been in the repair shop since last week so I am behind on posting. I kept machining so I will have many pictures to catch up on.      Jack B

The Cylinder Head is made from scrap aluminum stock milled square in my Index Vertical miller.


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## Jack B (Feb 19, 2010)

Using my Starrett edge finder to pick up datum point for holes. It will be the upper right hand corner.






After hole is center drilled the tap drill is pushed right through. This is for the Metric spark plug CM-6.






These end mills will be used to open the hole to receive the cylinder.  Largest diameter is 7/8 of an inch. The two smaller holes shown are for mounting the unit to the Spacer Block.


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## Jack B (Feb 19, 2010)

3/4 endmill deepest cut.






7/8 endmill will leave a step in the bore.






The Cylinder is a perfect fit.


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## Jack B (Feb 19, 2010)

This homemade tool will guide the sparkplug tap straight.






Tapping sparkplug hole.






Four holes must be put in to hold the Cylinder to the Cylinder Head. They are on a 1.188 bolt circle. My Index vertical miller has conventional dials. No DRO. So I will dial the coordinates from my center that is already established. A little Trig and my dimensions are .420 X & Y directions.


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## Jack B (Feb 19, 2010)

The four holes are clearance for 8-32 screws.






The Cylinder is bolted to the Cylinder head with a brass bolt and a rusty nut This is being done in my old Buffalo Drill Press. The work is in a well used cam lock vise.






Machining radius on the Cylinder Head. I whittle the circle with a endmill by taking a series of cuts.


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## Jack B (Feb 19, 2010)

The radius is finished on my disk sander.






Drilling the Crankshaft hole.






Reaming the Crankshaft hole. Two stinted bearings well be pressed in the holes.


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## Jack B (Feb 20, 2010)

Start of Crankshaft squared up.






Two accurate center holes are needed on ends.






Angle plate and clamps hold the work in the milling vise.


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## Jack B (Feb 20, 2010)

Roughing out the center throw.






Turning on centers in lathe using a cutoff tool for a tool bit.






Diameter and sides cut to size.


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## Jack B (Feb 20, 2010)

I made a special split tool to keep the center pressure from distorting the shape of the Crankshaft.






Special tool inserted when cutting diameters.






All parts of engine assembled as of now. I got tired of looking at the red dye so I removed it. The engine is much heavier than I though it would be.


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## slick95 (Feb 20, 2010)

Looking great Jack 

I like your method of supporting the center when turning the main journals. 

Jeff


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## Jack B (Feb 20, 2010)

Hi Jeff That support method worked well. I made it a good fit. The work felt secure when I was turning it.    Jack B


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## kcmillin (Feb 21, 2010)

Great work on th crank Jack. 

Did you turn the main journals all on he lathe? 
Or did you rough it with the mill first?

kel


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## Jack B (Feb 21, 2010)

Hy Kel
It was my intention to rough down the outside diameters in the miller. But I wanted to see how my special tool would work in the lathe. I took light cuts at first and kept increasing to about .040 per cut. My RPMs were between 500 and 600. It cut nicely and I just lessened the depth of cut for two finishing cuts.   Jack B


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## Jack B (Feb 24, 2010)

Philip Duclos the engine's designer suggested a 1961 to 1972 Chrysler ignition point set. I have had 1928 to 1930 Model A Fords for the past forty years. So I have extra distributor and ignition parts for the Model A Ford. Therefore I am going to try to adapt a set of Model A points to my engine. At first glance they look like they will be OK with a few modifications.






The cam diameter had to be made larger then the print called for. The cam on the left is original Model A. The center one is the print size and the one on the right is the new size.






I made a special backing shim for the Model A point plate. I am using the mounting holes the print called for.


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## Jack B (Feb 24, 2010)

I drilled a hole in the Model A plate to match the mounting set screw. All is looking good so far.






Using my scriber on the surface gageto pick up the second mounting hole.






Transferring the mounting hole location to the Model A plate. I made a round piece of stock to fit the center hole of the plate and the crankshaft diameter. This is centering the plate with the crankshaft. I will cutoff the long arm on the plate when I am satisfied the plate will fit on the Engine Upright okay.


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## Jack B (Feb 24, 2010)

Drilling on the miller. These are extended jaws with built in parallels on the Bridgeport Vise.






I am about to mill a slot right through the plate and the backing shim. This will be for adjustment when they are mounted.






 I made the decision that the arm had to go. I am milling it off while the plate is in the vise.


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## Jack B (Feb 24, 2010)

No going back it's off.






Looks pretty good. Oh Oh !!! The engine runs clockwise and the Model A distributor is made to run counter clockwise. The plate must be turned around.


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## Jack B (Feb 24, 2010)

I took the plate all apart including the Phenolic insulation. I then re-assembled all the parts on the back of the plate and re-attached it to the Engine Upright.






This is how the point set looks now for clockwise turning of the cam.






The cam on the crankshaft contacts the cam on the riser block of the points correctly. Everything is smooth running as the crankshaft turns.


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## slick95 (Feb 24, 2010)

Looking good Jack 

Jeff


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## Jack B (Feb 25, 2010)

Hi Jeff 
I hope the points work out all right. They look the same as the Chrysler's except for the mounting plate.                           Jack B


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## Jack B (Feb 26, 2010)

Cut stock and started machining the Flywheel today. This will take a while. My stock is one inch thick and I have to make the width .750. There is also an indentation to cut on both sides. The finish diameter will be five inches.







Making a bunch of chips. This will do for today I will try to get back on it tomorrow.


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## Jack B (Feb 28, 2010)

Drilling the Crankshaft hole.






Boring hole to true.






Ream last .005 to .007 .


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## Jack B (Feb 28, 2010)

Cutting indentation.






Truing outside diameter.






Facing opposite side.


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## Jack B (Feb 28, 2010)

Engine assembly as of now. It weighs ten pounds as shown. 






 Your comments are welcome.     Jack B


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## slick95 (Feb 28, 2010)

Great work Jack,

The fly wheels (5in Dia) on my Odds N Ends took me two weeks to complete (mini lathe), your really going to town on this build.

Keep at it. The engine looks fantastic...

Jeff


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## kcmillin (Feb 28, 2010)

Lookin good Jack. 

Thats one heavy beastie.

kel


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## Jack B (Feb 28, 2010)

Hi Kel yes it sure is heavy. maybe I will have to put wheels on it


Hi Jeff I have a 12 inch clausing lathe it will take a good size cut. I thought I was going slow. Some times I only work a couple of hours.                     Jack B


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## Jack B (Mar 4, 2010)

The stock for the Piston is in the collet. It has been turned to the outside diameter size and faced. The hole being center drilled will finish up bored to size and with a square bottom. The fussiest part of making the Piston is the outside diameter to size with the Cylinder. The inside that takes more machining is just a nest for the Crankshaft Yoke. But it required more work.






First drill about 3/8 inch.






Second drill about 15/32


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## Jack B (Mar 4, 2010)

I used a 1/2 inch endmill to clean out the point taper from the drills. This gave me a flat rear wall. 






This is the boring tool I used .


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## Jack B (Mar 4, 2010)

Clearance drill for 4-40 screw hole in face of Piston. The 4-40 screw will hold the Yoke in the Piston.


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## Jack B (Mar 4, 2010)

Boring Tool to cut rear wall true with inside diameter.






Checking hole size with telescopic gage.






Finished Piston.


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## Brian Rupnow (Mar 4, 2010)

Very nice work. Is there going to be a water jacket on that cylinder for cooling?---Brian


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## Jack B (Mar 4, 2010)

Hi Brian
Phil Duclos designed this engine without a water jacket. He also eliminated gears. I guess it will be quite different than other IC engines. I am holding my tolerances as close as possible. This is a first time experience with a small engine for me. Thanks for taking an interest.                  Jack B


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## Jack B (Mar 6, 2010)

Hi Brian
I knew there was some more information about this engine concerning the water jacket. The plans are covered in four Home Shop Machinist magazines. So I reread the article and here is what Mr Duclos said,"there is no water jacket to cool the cylinder". He also said,"the heavy walled cylinder acts as a heat sink together with the thick aluminum head and the spacer block situated below the cylinder". These items are shown above in my picture of the engine on the red back round.                   Jack B


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## NickG (Mar 6, 2010)

Hi Jack, I missed this as have been a bit quiet of late on the forum and had a massive amount to catch up on. Nice work - so far I have just looked at the start and last pages so will have to catch up on it.

Nick


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## Jack B (Mar 6, 2010)

Hi Nick: Glad to hear from you. This is a much different animal then the last engine I made. There is a great deal of steel machining. I had my computer in and out of the repair shop the last couple of weeks so I had to be careful that I didn't goof up my posting. Everything seems to be ok now and the engine has enough parts on it to look respectable. Keep in touch.      Jack B


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## Jack B (Mar 8, 2010)

The Yoke which is the next part is just a simple diameter and length of aluminum that fits inside the Piston. The turning is complete and the slot is being cut. 






Edgefinder to pickup the center.






Center drill where the hole for the Yoke Pin will go.


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## Jack B (Mar 8, 2010)

Drilling hole.






5/32 Ream.






The picture shows the finished Yoke along with the Piston. 
A 5/32 rod goes through the two holes in the Yoke.
The shaft holds the Connecting Rod.
The Yoke is held in the piston by the 4-40 screw.


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## NickG (Mar 9, 2010)

Nice 1 Jack,

Some good work holding tips for me there, it's not a strong point of mine. I need to get used to using my wiggler too!!! ;D

Nick


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## Jack B (Mar 9, 2010)

Hi Nick:
You are welcome to use or modify any holding device I show. My engine is comming along good.         Jack B


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## Jack B (Mar 11, 2010)

Milling the Connecting Rod
This is a nice piece of scrap aluminum from the 73 series. I am going to make my Connecting Rod out of it. The piece is 1/2 inch thick and it machines great. 







I have sawed and rough milled the piece of stock to a rectangle shape. It is now being machined to the drawing sizes. I hold all my tolerances very close.






First step drilling the clamp holes.


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## Jack B (Mar 11, 2010)

Slitting saw makes a neat cut. I have allowed 1/16 of an inch for the saw cut.






This is an oil hole it will have an oil soaked string in it.






The tap holes are deep.


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## Jack B (Mar 11, 2010)

Start of Crank Shaft journal hole.






Last drill to pass through before 3/8 inch reamer.






3/8 Reamer


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## Jack B (Mar 11, 2010)

5/32 Reamer for Piston wrist pin.






That's it for the milling. I will be moving to the Clausing lathe next. I haven't decided how I want to cut the taper which will be my next move.            Jack B


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## kcmillin (Mar 11, 2010)

Jack,

Nice job on the con rod. 

those tapped holes are deep indeed. what size tap did you use?

kel


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## NickG (Mar 12, 2010)

Nice 1 Jack, can I ask is that a machine reamer or a hand one - some people seem to get hung up about this - my view is, if it works then do it!

Nick


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## Jack B (Mar 13, 2010)

Hi Kel  I was away from the computer for a few days or I would have responded sooner.
Those screws are 4-40. I started them while the top was still on using it for a guide. After I cut it off with the slitting saw I finshed tapping them. I use Cool Tool for my cutting fluid. Jack B


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## Jack B (Mar 13, 2010)

Hi Nick
The reamers I have used so far are machine reamers. I bought some at a yard sale a couple of years ago. They have Morse tappers on the shank. I cut the taper off the duplicate ones and made them short for the miller and drill press. I can put Morse tapers in my lathe tailstock. Like you I use whatever I need. I also have assorted reamers with straight shanks. 
I will put the rest of the Connecting Rod pictures on shortly as soon as I can upload them.              Jack B


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## Jack B (Mar 14, 2010)

Turning the taper on the Connecting Rod. 
There are three ways to turn a taper. One using a taper attachment, two is offsetting the tailstock and the way I picked was to offset the lathe compound. Mine has more then enough travel. A little trig and I figured that the angle needed would be about 1 degree and 11 minutes. I took a trial cut and everything was ok so I cut to size. I ground a radius on a spare cut off tool and it worked great. 






Here you can see the whole setup.


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## Jack B (Mar 14, 2010)

This aluminum cuts beautiful.






Just a little filing left.


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## Jack B (Mar 14, 2010)

All parts assembled to date.
The List
Base plate--Two Upright Body Plates--Two Main Bearings-- Crank Shaft
Spacer Block--Cylinder-- Cylinder Head--Connecting Rod--Wrist Pin
Wrist Pin Bracket--Piston--Points--Fly Wheel--Cam--Spark Plug
There are still some unique parts to make. Micrometer is for scale.                        Jack B


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## kcmillin (Mar 14, 2010)

Movin right along Jack.

Verry nice work turning the connecting rod!!!

Kel


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 15, 2010)

Very nice looking engine.
Good thread too! Lots of interesting tidbits.


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## slick95 (Mar 15, 2010)

Coming together nicely Jack.

Jeff


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## Jack B (Mar 16, 2010)

Hi Kel, Carl and Jeff
I worked all today on the Exhust and Intake system. They require quite a few setups and in different machines. 
Thank you very much for the kind words of encouragement.
                               Jack B.


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## Jack B (Mar 20, 2010)

The next parts to make are the Intake and Exhaust Valve Bodies. I am going to carry these two along for the most part together. Some of the milling operations and a great deal of the lathe operations require similar set ups. Keeping my mind on doing two at one time will be tricky . I find some of these drawings difficult to read so I put them in my scanner and enlarged them. This makes them a little easier to understand. I have a short length of one inch square CRS that I will use. The Exhaust Valve Body is first. I am machining sizes in the vertical miller.


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## Jack B (Mar 20, 2010)

The laid out center is being located by the center finder and indicator.






Drill for 1/8 reamer.






1/8 reamer through


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## Jack B (Mar 20, 2010)

Roughing out a .187 diameter by 3/8 long.






Finish cut. Four jaw chuck spinning about 1000 RPM causing a slight blur.






These parts are small for the big lathe.


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## Jack B (Mar 20, 2010)

Rear view the 1/8 dowel will be used to true it up in the four jaw chuck.






Zero all around.






.374 by 3/32 long diameter.


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## Jack B (Mar 20, 2010)

1/4 drill by 3/8 deep







I ground a special tool to cut 45 degree valve seat.


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## Jack B (Mar 20, 2010)

Compound set at 45 degrees to cut valve seat. 






Cutting the valve seat. when I finish this operation I will put the part aside and start on the Intake Valve Body.


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## Jack B (Mar 21, 2010)

Starting new part milling Intake Valve Body square.






Preliminary alignment using center.






I prefer to tighten and loosen by using the side jaws. 
This method of shifting the piece can be done
quickly and with precision.


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## Jack B (Mar 23, 2010)

First side finished. Turned .187 and reamed 1/8 through.


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## kcmillin (Mar 23, 2010)

Nice work Jack,

I like your method of using the dowel to true your work in the 4 jaw.

Kel


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## Jack B (Mar 24, 2010)

Thanks Kel: The dowl is a good one to start truing with. I also had to be concerned that the face of the part was also true so I swept accross it next. I trued the face and went back and checked the dowl. It needed a little touch and both dowl and face were true. It takes patience and a good indicator.
                         Jack B


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## Jack B (Mar 26, 2010)

Intake Valve Body opposite side,Trueing the hole. 






After I trued the hole I ran the indicator along the length of the piece to true the face.






My Dad bought me this micrometer in 1950 when I was a student in a vocational high school. Important dimension .812. All new dimensions on this side will come from this face.


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## Jack B (Mar 26, 2010)

!/4 hole drilled 3/8 deep






Completed holes and 45 degree valve seat. Next is a trip to the vertical miller for some deep hole drilling.             Jack B


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## Maryak (Mar 26, 2010)

Jack,

It sure is a different design to the Depenbusch I am trying to make. I see now, (I think), where your inlet valve goes. Anyway it sure is looking good. :bow:

So many WIPs - It's getting harder and harder to keep up with everything.

This is great for our forum but hard on the individual.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (Mar 27, 2010)

Hi Bob
This week I had some other things to attend to so I didn't get much shop time on my engine. with luck I should have this section finished this coming week. Thanks for looking in.       Jack B


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## Jack B (Mar 29, 2010)

Setup in miller to drill deep hole. Angle plate resting on it's side. Part is nested to keep it up straight. C clamp pulls one way and vise jaw pushes against solid jaw. 
Center of drilled hole picked up with edge finder. 






Depth is set for finish drill.






A little blue pencil lead to find zero mark easier.


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## Jack B (Mar 29, 2010)

Finish Hole, my time was very limited last week. I didn't get much time in the shop.


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## Jack B (Mar 30, 2010)

I got a couple of hours yesterday to put into the shop. I set up the lathe to cut this diameter on the Intake valve body. Centers are lined up with the deep hole drilled in the vertical miller. This is a touchy diameter to cut because the wall thickness is very thin. I am using light cuts and slow feed. Better safe then sorry. I have to be cautious about breaking through.         Jack B


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## Jack B (Apr 1, 2010)

Back to miller to drill two holes and mill off a small amount of stock on the end. This piece came out good following this procedure. Someone else could get equal results using a procedure they were comfortable with.     Jack B


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## Jack B (Apr 4, 2010)

Now to finish up the holes in the Exhaust Valve Body. Piece is held between two scrap pieces of aluminum. My ever present edge finder that I use constantly is shown.






Center drill and finish drill.






Finished Exhaust Valve Body and the two holding fixtures. There are more components to add but this is the body itself. In my machinist career I worked in many Job Shops. We always had to get the job done in the least amount of time. Our holding fixtures ninety percent of the time were just something that would work, nothing fancy. These two pieces of aluminum will return to the scrap box and probably never will be used again. 
The Port Hole Block is the next and last of these three Intake and Exhaust bodies to be made.                Jack B


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## Jack B (Apr 6, 2010)

5/8 by 3/4 by 1 inch piece of CRS for the Port hole Block. This is an important piece that holds the Intake Valve Body and the Exhaust Valve Body. 






There is not enough room to slide the anvil on my one inch micrometer between the parallels to get a reading. So I use my gage blocks and my Last Word Indicator to get the measurement. It is quick and accurate. 






Holes need to be right on so I use my edgefinder and milling stop.


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## Jack B (Apr 6, 2010)

Port hole for intake.






Carburetor unit consisting of the Intake Valve Body on top as shown. The Port Hole Block is in the middle and the Exhaust Valve Body is connected at the bottom.   Jack B


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## Jack B (Apr 8, 2010)

Today I worked on the Carburetor Jet. It gives one a lot of practice on tiny hole drilling. This picture shows the number 60 drill (.040) going to a depth of 1/2 inch. It meets up with the number 55 drill (.060) that was drilled in 5/8 inch from the opposite end. My large Jacob's Drill Chuck won't close tight enough to grip the small diameter drills so that is why a second smaller chuck is being used. Turning the blank was just straight forward so I didn't bother to photograph it.






Number 60 drill to make a jet in the Intake Valve Body. I am using two vises and drilled in the vertical miller for accuracy. I used my edge finder to pick up the spot.






I have now moved on to the Needle Valve which is the joining piece to this assembly. I am preparing the outside diameter for knurling.


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## Jack B (Apr 8, 2010)

Coarse Knurl 






6-32 tap drill






Home made spring loaded tap handle guide. It keeps the tap straight and the spring allows one to back off on every forward turn.


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## Jack B (Apr 8, 2010)

6-32 tap 7/16 deep blind hole. The guide is mounted in the chuck.






Turning 3/16 diameter.






Cutting to length with cut off tool.


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## Jack B (Apr 8, 2010)

Needle valve and Carburetor Jet finished except for soldering a #8 .050 Darning needle which I have to locate in the Needle Valve.


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## Maryak (Apr 8, 2010)

Jack,

A fine looking engine. :bow: :bow:

Do you intend to use soft or hard solder for the needle valve. ??? I have used soft solder in the past but I can't say it was all that great with stainless steel. On my roundtuit list is replacing with hard solder. Please let me know how you do it.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (Apr 8, 2010)

Hi Bob The reason why my needle is not soldered in is because I wasn't sure if I would do it. I am glad you said something about the soft solder because that is all I have and I am eliminating that right now. I have had Model A Fords circa 1928 to 1930 since the 1970s. I have rebuilt several engines completely including the carburetors. The fuel system on these cars are gravity feed. The don't have a fuel pump so basically it's the same type engine I am building. There are two needle valves on a Model A carburetor. The smaller of the two in the picture is the idle valve. It is solid brass. The other one is the high speed valve. The point is held in a collet set up. The point on this one seals in a aluminum hole and the point on the shorter solid brass one seals in a brass hole. I think this may be a better system. But tomorrow I am going to stop by the MSC Industrial store and find out what they have in hard solder. Then I will make the decision to use solder or change the design a little bit. I also thought of drilling and tapping for a small set screw from the side of the Needle Valve Body. Here is a picture of the three Needle Valves.                  Jack


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## Maryak (Apr 9, 2010)

Thanks Jack,

Just had another thought and that's one over my weekly quota but what about locktite. ???

Come on you carby wiz's help us out here or I may end up using the b..b..b..buy word.

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (Apr 19, 2010)

I am making the valves from drill rod. 






The blanks still need to be cut to length and lapped. I need two the third is just an extra one. I needed to take the snowblower off the tractor and put the mower on. Then I cut four acres of grass. Didn't leave any time for much shop work.            Jack B


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## Jack B (May 7, 2010)

Progress report on Exhaust and Intake System. I have been winding springs, lapping valves and making a series of small parts for the Ex. & In System. They are all straight forward machining so I didn't bother to document their build. There are still several parts to be made for this section. It has turned out to be a very interesting project.
                                                  Jack B


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## kcmillin (May 7, 2010)

Jack, Glad to hear your still at it. Its gettin real close now.

Kel


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## zeeprogrammer (May 8, 2010)

That's looking real nice Jack.
I can't wait to see and hear it run.


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## Maryak (May 8, 2010)

Jack,

Almost there. :bow: 

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (May 8, 2010)

Hi Kel---Zee----And Bob
As you said I do feel like I am in the home strech. However there are some tricky parts still to make
                          Jack


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## Jack B (May 13, 2010)

This is another part for the Intake & Exhaust System. This one starts out as a rectangle shape block of CRS.






Here is the finished part. It is called the Governor Pivot Arm. I have to make a simple bushing to attach it to the engine. I will try to make it tomorrow or Saturday and post a picture of it on the engine. This was an extremely difficult part to make. They were many setups. I also found the drawing very complex and hard to visualized.     Jack B


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## kcmillin (May 13, 2010)

Good Work Jack. That part is very complex. I can only imagine how long it took. Well Done Thm:

Kel


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## Jack B (May 13, 2010)

Hi Kel
I worked on it on and off for four different days. I put the drawing in my scanner and made it larger. That helped some but I needed more. I turned the drawing inside out and that helped a lot. Last night I thought I had it all figured out but this morning I saw I was wrong. I worked on it all day taking very light cuts with a 1/8 diameter cutter so it wouldn't fly out of the vise. I was finally done about 2 PM today. I thrive on challenges and this was one. Jack


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## SAM in LA (May 14, 2010)

Jack B.,

Your correct, that is one complex part to machine. It would be difficult for me to wrap my mind around the drawing to visualize the machining steps involved. Very impressive. Keep up the good work.

SAM





			
				Jack B  said:
			
		

> This is another part for the Intake & Exhaust System. This one starts out as a rectangle shape block of CRS.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Jack B (May 14, 2010)

Hi Sam
Thank you very much for the encouragement I started another exotic part today. I will have pictures this week.   Jack B


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## Maryak (May 14, 2010)

Jack,

You are following in George's footsteps making complex parts from solid. :bow: :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (May 16, 2010)

Hi Bob
Thank You very much for this wonderful complement. However I know I don't come anywhere near George's high level of work.
I started work on the two sided Governor Exhaust Cam Unit today and hope to make some good progress tomorrow.
                                            Jack B


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## Jack B (Jul 11, 2010)

I have been away from this project for a while because of different reasons.
The next part is The Governor Exhaust Cam Unit. I found this part to be very difficult to visualize and machine. This picture shows the blank being turned in the Clausing lathe. I made an extra one and needed it.






I don't have a rotary table so I mounted a jig plate I used on my last project in a old four jaw chuck. The chuck screws on to the spindle of the old K & T dividing head and this becomes my rotary table. The whole setup goes on my old Index verticle miller. Everything is trued to dead center.






I am drilling for two 8-32 holes in the part and the plate. They will be used for holding and orientation.


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## Jack B (Jul 11, 2010)

Tapping the holder plate that has been centered on the dividing head.






I made a scribing tool out of a broken end mill to draw the angle lines.






Cutting the sixty two degree cam.


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## Jack B (Jul 11, 2010)

Now I am machining the cam on the opposite side keeping them both in orientation with each other.






Finish machining this side. All that is left is to drill and tap three small holes. I will try to post the completed part tomorrow.      Jack B


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## Jack B (Jul 14, 2010)

Two quick shots of the Governor Exhaust Cam Unit. I put the micrometer in to give an indication of scale. This is the Cam side of the unit. I still have a few small holes to put in this unit.







This is the Governor side of the unit. During machining these two sides were kept in perfect relationship with each other. A half moon shaped swinging piece will attached here to control the RPM's of the engine.                       Jack B


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## Jack B (Jul 17, 2010)

This is the blank for The Governor Weight. Two angles and a !/8 ream hole on an angle must be laid out in one set up. Easy to do with my home made scribe and K & T dividing head. I have not shifted my milling table dials or my dividing head dials. So it was easy to bring the set up 3/8 hole back on zero center. Jack B


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## Jack B (Jul 19, 2010)

The white cut out piece of paper shows the red part of the Weight that will be removed. 






This is the dial I work with on my K & T dividing head. One complete turn of this dial equals a movement of 9 degrees on the dividing head. I know that this is a huge piece of equiptment and there are parts missing. It was on it's way to the scrapper and the man who owned it asked me if I wanted it. The first job I did with it several years ago was to remachine a spline shaft for a Caterpillar tractor transmision. It was hardened steel and required a 1/8 carbide endmill. It took me over a week to do it and the matching spline plate fit it perfect when I took my last cut. The minute you turn the crank you can feel the quarlity built in the K & T.
I only had a short time in the shop today so I didn't get much done.


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## Jack B (Jul 20, 2010)

The angle lines for the cut out on the Weight is drawn. Now the 1/8 ream hole is being center drilled on a 45 degree angle.


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## Jack B (Jul 22, 2010)

The 1/8 ream hole in the Weight is being drilled and reamed on my old Buffalo drill press.


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## Jack B (Jul 23, 2010)

The 2-56 threaded hole in the Governor Exhaust Unit was also positioned and center drilled in the K & T dividing head. It will line up with the 1/8 ream hole in the Weight.   Jack B


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## Jack B (Jul 24, 2010)

I have put the K & T dividing head in horizontal mode to make the Indexer. I have turned a blank to fit the set up plate that is already mounted on the four jaw chuck. This plate turns my dividing head into a rotary table. Now it's being used as a dividing head again. I have to cut an octagon on the blank as well as eight evenly spaced ratchet teeth. 






Caam10 Here is a close up of my set up to make the Indexer. Thr dividing head was trued up with indicators.                              Jack B


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## Jack B (Jul 25, 2010)

Using my edge finder to find center and start position. You can see the shape of the part on the print.


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## Jack B (Jul 27, 2010)

The two end slots are first. 3/16 endmill. Very light nibble cuts in the center. Then index dividing head 90 degrees. Everything going good so far.           Jack B


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## Jack B (Jul 28, 2010)

Eight saw teeth are next. This type of milling takes a while. The edge of the face of the cutter must be exactly on center. The red marks on the plate were for positioning on another job.   Jack B


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## arnoldb (Jul 29, 2010)

Hi Jack

I've been on the lookout for an IC engine to build, and last week Phil Duclos's "Maveric" caught my eye as a potential build. When I saw the indexer plans and your last couple of photos I thought it looked familiar, so I went back to the start of your thread and saw that it is indeed the Maveric you're building.

Keep up the good work; I'll be following your progress!

Regards, Arnold


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## Jack B (Jul 29, 2010)

Hi Arnold: You are right this build is the Maverick by Phil Duclos. This is my second engine. My first was a horizontal steam engine. Video Nov. 21 2009 on this site. 
I found the Maverick to be more difficult to understand the drawings and to machine the parts. 
I live in Massachusetts and this July we have had a severe heat wave. My shop is heated for the winter and is usually pleasant to work in during the summer. But this year it has been very humid so I had to cut my time for working on this project. I will keep posting as I go along. Thanks for commenting on my build.                        Jack B


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## Jack B (Jul 30, 2010)

I am now producing an eight sided octagon. It is slightly wider then the finish size.






Close up of cuts.


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## Jack B (Aug 1, 2010)

Finished Indexer before being cut off in lathe.


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## Jack B (Aug 3, 2010)

Start of Indexer Screw. 

The weather is still extremely hot and humid so I am working short bursts in the shop.






Three diameters completed. It will also have a 5-40 thread.


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## Jack B (Aug 7, 2010)

In order to cut the screw driver slot with a hack saw the screw is held in a toolmakers ball.






Indexer Cam in position under Exhaust Valve. Weather temperature still very hot. One hour is enough to work.


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## Brian Rupnow (Aug 7, 2010)

Well Whaddayaknow---I was just asking about the Maverick engine this afternoon. I didn't know that there was one being built on this same forum. Now I will have to read it all and follow along!!!---Brian


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## Jack B (Aug 9, 2010)

Hi Brian: This is an interesting engine to build. It has been very changeling on the machining part. This is my first IC engine so I am feeling my way along. 
Anyway welcome to my build I hope you find it interesting. I have slowed down because of the heat wave we have had here. Us older machinists (76) have to take it easy on the hot days.   Jack


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## Donrecardo (Aug 10, 2010)

Jack B  said:
			
		

> I am now producing an eight sided octagon.



Is there another kind ?  ???


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## Jack B (Aug 10, 2010)

Donrecardo  said:
			
		

> Is there another kind ? ???



Yup! Could be: Hi Don

If I miss my mark as I count my turns on the old K & T it's possible to get an extra side. But as it turned out I got the usual 8.            Jack B


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## Jack B (Aug 12, 2010)

Indexer and Screw beside dime for size comparison.







Indexer before deburring.


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## Jack B (Aug 12, 2010)

The dividing head is removed from the vertical miller. Mr Bridgeport vise is now installed to complete some milling operations. In this picture I am working on the Exhaust Cam Governor.






Closeup of section on the Governor to be removed.


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## Jack B (Aug 12, 2010)

One leg milled.






Edge finder being used to pickup the hole location for a spring nest.


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## Jack B (Aug 12, 2010)

5/32 End mill cuts spring nest in Governor.






Milling on this part complete.


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## Jack B (Aug 12, 2010)

Complete Cam and Governor before deburring and polishing. A small spring will be placed between the two parts.   Jack B


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## Jack B (Aug 15, 2010)

Drilling threaded holes at 15 degrees in the Fly Wheel. Small vise containing a 3/8 pin is set on angle






Edge finder is used to pickup center of pin.






Short center drill and tap drill are removed from their sleves and replaced with longer ones.


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## Jack B (Aug 15, 2010)

Tap hole is center drilled. Card board is used so clamp will not mar Wheel. This clamp was a project I did my first year at Vocational School. This was in 1949 grade 11.






Tapping 8-32 threaded hole for set screw. I am using my spring loaded tap guide to do a total of four holes


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## Jack B (Aug 19, 2010)

I forgot to mention I use the Kool-Tool shown in the picture for tapping. Everybody has their favorite this is mine. To hot to work in the shop last couple of days so I am catching up on four acres of grass cutting.                                  Jack B.


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## SAM in LA (Aug 20, 2010)

Jack B  said:
			
		

> I forgot to mention I use the Kool-Tool shown in the picture for tapping. Everybody has their favorite this is mine. To hot to work in the shop last couple of days so I am catching up on four acres of grass cutting.                                 Jack B.



Jack,

That is entirely to much grass for a man to cut. How about getting a cow or goat to handle it for you.

SAM


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## Jack B (Aug 20, 2010)

SAM in LA  said:
			
		

> Jack,
> 
> That is entirely to much grass for a man to cut. How about getting a cow or goat to handle it for you.
> 
> SAM


Hi Sam: I just bought a 27 HP Garden Tractor with a 52 inch deck. I love to mow the grass and it takes about 2 1/2 hours to do two acres. I could do it faster but I like to take my time. 
In the winter I have a 600 foot drive way that I clear of snow. That also will be done with a 42 inch snow blower mounted on my garden tractor. After 16 years of use I wore my last tractor out a few weeks ago. I wear a snow mobile suit in the winter when snow blowing and stay outside for hours just enjoying it as much as grass cutting. After 43 years of teaching and working in the machinist trade this is how I spend my retirement. I also love working on the little models we like to make in my shop. In our spare time my wife and I ride around in our 1928 Model A Ford that we rebuilt.                Jack B


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## Jack B (Aug 26, 2010)

The weather got a little cooler around here so I was able to work for a couple of days in the shop. Most of the parts are done but there still are things to do. The only major part is the Fuel Tank. The little Ratchet under the Carburetor seems to function like it should when I turn the Fly Wheel by hand.                Jack


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## kcmillin (Aug 26, 2010)

Lookin Good Jack Thm: Thm:

Your almost there it looks like.


Kel


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## NickG (Aug 26, 2010)

Wow, looks fantastic :bow:


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## zeeprogrammer (Aug 26, 2010)

That looks good Jack.
I looking forward to seeing the run.


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## Jack B (Aug 29, 2010)

Kel.Nick and carl
Thanks for your interest. I don't think I will get back into the shop until after the Labor day weekend. I will post if I get anything done.
                                        Jack B


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## Jack B (Sep 19, 2010)

Back on page 9 of this build Maryak (Bob) and I were having a discussing about the construction of the Needle Valve. The plans called for soldering and neither one of us were keen on that process. So the question of whether or not we should go with this on our respective builds was brought up for discussion. No one replied so my solution was to forget soldering and go with a mechanical solution. I added length to the brass Knob and changed the through hole to a blind hole. I ground a flat on the Needle and secured it with a 4-40 setscrew.






This shows the Needle Valve inserted into the Carburetor Jet.  Jack B


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## Maryak (Sep 19, 2010)

Jack,

Neat and elegant solution to our problem. :bow:

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (Sep 25, 2010)

I was able to get some time in the shop today. I started on the tank. That is a one inch reamer.






Picture shows the base and tank under construction. No dimensions were giving for the tank unit so I am winging it.                    Jack B


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## Jack B (Sep 28, 2010)

Making the end piece for the Fuel Tank. The aluminum strips are to prevent jaw marks.






Making a 3/8 24 fine thread on the Tank Filler Neck. The handles on the die stock were made in a small experimental shop where I worked years ago. I was the only machinist with three assemblers and three engineers. The company sent the wrong stock so the handles were scrap. I made two size die wrenches for everybody from the handles. From then on they didn't have to borrow mine.


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## Jack B (Sep 28, 2010)

Two pair of glasses to see the small dial lines. That's because I turn 77 years old tomorrow. But I can still hold my tolerances yet.         Jack B


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## Brian Rupnow (Sep 28, 2010)

Happy birthday, Jack!!!


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## Maryak (Sep 28, 2010)

Brian Rupnow  said:
			
		

> Happy birthday, Jack!!!



Me too. :bow: x 77

Best Regards
Bob


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## Jack B (Sep 28, 2010)

Thanks Bob and Brian


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## dsquire (Sep 28, 2010)

Happy Birthday Jack. I just hope I can remember where I put my glasses when I reach 77. :big:

Cheers 

Don


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## kustomkb (Sep 28, 2010)

Great work, and Happy birthday!

I'm 36 and have been machining for 16 years. When I'm 77 I hope to be exactly where you are.

Have fun!


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## Jack B (Sep 29, 2010)

Thanks Kevin and Don


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## krv3000 (Sep 29, 2010)

HI jack I hope my work is as good as yours when I'm 77 I'm only 47 gnaw keep mackin swaf   sos for speling regards bob


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## ozzie46 (Sep 29, 2010)

Happy Birthday Jack. I'm only 64 and need that second pair of eyewear now.

 Hope I'm still going as strong as you when I reach 77.


 Ron


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## rudydubya (Sep 29, 2010)

Happy Birthday Jack. Birthdays are good. The more you have, the longer you live.

Regards,
Rudy


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## Jack B (Sep 29, 2010)

Thank you 
Bob, Ron, and Rudy
Your for good wishes mean a lot to me.

                   Jack B


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## Jack B (Oct 7, 2010)

Tapping and putting the finishing touches on the Fuel Tank.







Tank Parts completed, left to right Fill Cap, Nipple and Tank Support Post.
                                                       Jack B


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## Jack B (Oct 13, 2010)

I completed the Fuel Tank. The hose will be changed to a clear one. I still have to change one small part that isn't working 100 per cent.                Jack B


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## cfellows (Oct 14, 2010)

Looks like you're getting close, Jack. Really nice looking build. Can't wait to see it run!

Chuck


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## Jack B (Oct 14, 2010)

Thanks Chuck
I am almost ready to give it a spin. There are several small tasks that need to be done first.          Jack B


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## Jack B (Oct 18, 2010)

Made a new Catch Bracket this one is working much smoother then the original one. There always seems to be one more thing to take care of. It is the black part below the brass wheel. But I am making progress.                Jack B


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## Chaffe (Feb 19, 2011)

very interesting engine this! i will be very interested to see it run, what are the chances of it latching the rocker arm when the spool is in the "miss valve position"? would this matter? as it would still have compression and would not coast very well, or have i missed something?


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## Jack B (Feb 19, 2011)

Hi Chaffe: I didn't do much work on my engine since October. I had a bunch of other projects that needed to be taken care of first. Then I had some questions about the engine that I needed to be answered. 
So I waited until today and went to the N.E.M.E.S. Model Engineering Show at the Charles River Museum of Industry in Waltham Massachusetts. 
I talked to some very experienced model builders there and I think I got my needed answers.
 I am almost ready to start it and I will be waiting for the first decent day here in Massachusetts to take it outside and give it a try. If I have luck I will shoot a video and put it on so you can see it run.
Thank you for inquiring about it.                             Jack B


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## Chaffe (Feb 20, 2011)

that will be great, cant wait.


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## metalmad (Feb 20, 2011)

Hi Jack
looking great 
I love Hit and Miss
Pete


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