# made my first machinist clamps



## werowance (Jul 28, 2014)

made my first machinist clamps and wanted to show them off.
i know for most of you this is probably childs play but its really one of the few things i have made that was actually square and came out like i planned.  

the jaws were cut from a chunk of mystery steel,  the clamp screws and tommy bars were cut from scrap drill rod, and the tang that holds one of the screws in place was cut from a scrap piece of brass that came off the bottom of a door - i think they call it a toe kick or something but was free scrap.  the brass screws i cut from a piece of 360 brass bar.

i band sawed out the rough shape of the jaws, milled then fly cut some flats so i could glue them together with locktight, blued and marked the dimensions,  made the rest of the cuts and drilled the holes and popped them apart.  

first thing i have milled on my at750 that actually came out square.

even electro etched my name


----------



## dnalot (Jul 28, 2014)

Very nice and very usfull. They look store bought.

Mark T


----------



## gerritv (Jul 28, 2014)

Quality job, and very useful


I use my high school shop one from 1962 on a regular basis.

Gerrit


----------



## crueby (Jul 28, 2014)

dnalot said:


> Very nice and very usfull. They look store bought.
> 
> Mark T



Nicer than any store bought ones I have - great work!


----------



## Swifty (Jul 28, 2014)

Excellent job, I made a small pair when I was an apprentice, they are only about 1 1/4" long and open up to nearly 1", very handy little things.

Paul.


----------



## RonGinger (Jul 28, 2014)

Very nice, much nicer than the black finish commonly seen. And I am very pleased to see you put your name on it. I so often buy a nice tool like that at some flea market, or vendor at a show, and there is no sign of a makers  name. Artists always sign their work, there  is no reason we should not sign work like this. It is every bit as much art.


----------



## gus (Jul 29, 2014)

Your clamp is so well made and polished.

Made the same clamp in Trade School in 1961. Regret I did not make a request to take it home.


----------



## werowance (Jul 29, 2014)

Thank you all very much.  i never realized all those years just how much work it really is doing machine work.  and how much time and effort is involved in just doing the setup to hold the piece before you even get to make a cut that only takes a couple of mins to cut (hours to setup, seconds to cut sometimes).  i have had my lathe mill combo now for i guess about 3 years and i am just getting to the point that i can accurately cut a machinist clamp.  but im lovin it!  

so just want to say "MUCH RESPECT" to all of you here,  you make it look so easy when in reallity it is very very very dificult, tedious and yet rewarding and fun.


----------



## kvom (Jul 29, 2014)

That was the first thing I made in machining class (2 of them).  Yours look excellent.


----------



## Omnimill (Jul 29, 2014)

Very nice job! Thm:


----------



## kquiggle (Jul 29, 2014)

Beautiful work - I'd be tempted to put it in a display case instead of using it! Electroetching your name was a very nice touch.


----------



## necchiom (Jul 29, 2014)

With compliment!


----------



## gus (Jul 29, 2014)

Swifty said:


> Excellent job, I made a small pair when I was an apprentice, they are only about 1 1/4" long and open up to nearly 1", very handy little things.
> 
> Paul.




I just can't take it longer, missed my DIY Trade School Clamp. Will DIY so as I get '' Lynx '' going.

Also DIY a ToolMaker's Precision Vise in Trade School. Its Ok I bought 2 look alikes from Southern China while on ''Biz Trip'' years ago. Stood up well after 8 years. But from Dean's Forum there is such vise. Might give a DIY go.
But right now I have three such vise!!!.


----------



## werowance (Jul 30, 2014)

Been following your Lynx build Gus,  you are almost there.  cant wait to see it run!


----------



## Wizard69 (Aug 2, 2014)

Wow, almost too nice to use!   A nice hard chrome plating would preserve them for a very very long time.


----------



## Meldonmech (Aug 7, 2014)

Nice job, these are very useful, especially when used as a pair.


----------



## werowance (Aug 10, 2014)

well.....the clamp jaws are now starting to get some surface rust  very light but still there. came off easily, and the drill rod screws are still nice and shiney.  i had cleaned and rubbed it down liberly with 10/30 motor oil  conventional not synthetic.  any suggestions for rust prevention oils or solvents?  i just don't think they deserve chrome or something like that but would like to know what i can do at home for metal like this to help it last.


----------



## Jyman (Aug 11, 2014)

A hot oil dip would help prevent rust


Sent from my iPhone using Model Engines


----------



## Wizard69 (Aug 11, 2014)

werowance said:


> well.....the clamp jaws are now starting to get some surface rust  very light but still there. came off easily, and the drill rod screws are still nice and shiney.  i had cleaned and rubbed it down liberly with 10/30 motor oil  conventional not synthetic.  any suggestions for rust prevention oils or solvents?  i just don't think they deserve chrome or something like that but would like to know what i can do at home for metal like this to help it last.




I've used cold blackening solution for some stuff I've made for my lathe.   Birchwood Casey is one vendor.   These guys: http://www.caswellplating.com/metal-finishing-solutions/black-oxide-kits.html have a system and many other possibilities.   You can also find metal blackening kits at all of the major tool distributors.   So far I've gotten fairly good results without a great deal of prep work.   That is the more you polish the steel the the nicer the results.  Most systems involve a blacken solution followed by a "sealer", with lots of cleaning in between.   The quality of your local water may be a factor in the results you get.  

You still need to keep the steel coated with a rust preventative, in that regard I use the same material I use on my guns.    Break Free CLP is one option but many others exist.   You can also use Boeshield T-9.  There are so many out there it is hard to keep track and honestly I don't know what the "in" rust preventative is.    I do like the blackening approach for most tools or things that get used as it simple and safe.  

Plating can be dangerous and in California you might even need a permit to buy the required materials.    However a hard chrome can be very nice on tools, especially if wear is an issue.  At one time it was common to find hard chrome plating on cutting tools like taps.   You are probably better off finding cheaper solutions. 

One thing I've always wanted to try is: http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/ which have an interesting and very high performance baked on finish for metals.  The problem is the prep and equipment are beyond what I have to work with.   If you have a local applicator you might try to get home to do your stuff with another project hopefully saving some costs.    If you look around the site they have a great manual that details the extensive work required to apply their finishes.   If you have the resources you might be able to DIY.   Even then this is probably a finish better suited to a very high quality model.  

Beyond that there is always Rustoleum .    Really it pays to look at what new finishes are available from the paint companies.  
.


----------



## Swifty (Aug 11, 2014)

I've used cold blackening solution many times, and it works great. The solution that I use is different to the one mentioned above, I don't have to wait several days for the sealer to work. You can see how I do mine in the last posting here, http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=22438&highlight=Black+oxide&page=5

I only just grabbed a couple of pieces for the demo and did not prepare them much, I only gave them a bit of a wipe. With proper cleaning and maybe polishing, the black would be much better.

Paul.


----------



## GeorgeGreek (Mar 16, 2015)

Very nice work indeed. Howevsr, what was even more impresssive was the etching. I will be more than obliged if you share the secret with me.


Thanks, george


----------



## werowance (Mar 16, 2015)

GeorgeGreek said:


> Very nice work indeed. Howevsr, what was even more impresssive was the etching. I will be more than obliged if you share the secret with me.
> 
> 
> Thanks, george


 
really no secret to the etching. its very easy. I bought a used electro etching kit from ebay. its called an etch-o-matic. www.etch-o-matic.com since then I have experimented with other ways and I can tell you that you can very easily make your own.

first is the stencil, the etcho matic kit comes with a film coated silk screen. (not sure if its silk really but guessing). you print your logo or name on a piece of transparency film (the clear plastic sheets like you use for an overhead projector) and lay it on top of this film. you put this under a u.v. lamp for a couple of mins and then put it in developer solution. what it does is remove the plastic from the silk sheet that did not get hit with uv light. so you have your name in silk and the rest is a platic barrier that will block the electricity except through the silk part.

now that you have the stencil you tape it to the part and then take your etcher and wet it with electrolyte. plug in the etcher and press it down for about 5 seconds and lift, then repeat about 10 times and you have a nice dark etch.


now for the home-made way.
2 choices on the etcher: ac verses dc current. then etcho matic does both with a recitifier diode. dc current makes a deeper etch but doesn't turn very black, just sort of a dark gray, ac current makes a good black but not very deep. so what I do is start with dc to get the depth, then switch to AC to make it black.

I had a 12v ac transformer I bought at Radio Shack and a rectifier diode I bought there to. (don't have the part numbers but any 12 v ac transformer of decent size should work) and if you have a 12 v dc transformer as well then you wont need the rectifier diode.

attach the positive lead of the transformer to the metal piece you want to etch and the negative lead to a q-tip soaked in a salt water solution (as much salt as you can possibly dissolve in water) shake off excess solution from the qtip so it isn't dripping wet and just start dabbing at your stencil you should hear a little sizzle sound and start seeing some brown or black come on the qtip if its working. if you see that then you are on your way.
remember dc = deep, ac = black when etching steel. havnt done brass or anything else yet.


I have seen people use finger nail polish to paint on a stencil on the part then once etched used fingernail polish remover to clean it up. I have also seen electric tape and a craft knife used to make a vinyl stencil.



edit- should also add that the uv stencils you make are re-usable many times. I have yet to wear out my name stencil.

2nd edit -  when I say positive lead to the metal piece you are etching,  that's assuming you are using a dc transformer,  ac transformers it doesn't matter which of the 2 wires you use.


----------



## pkastagehand (Mar 16, 2015)

I've heard of some folks just heating with torch (or heat treating oven if you have it) then dunking in used motor oil.  I don't know how hot they are heating the parts but not too hot; propane torch on small parts is plenty it sounds like.

Watch out for fire hazard when dunking in oil.  

Paul


----------



## GeorgeGreek (Mar 17, 2015)

Have really illuminated the darkness in my 74years old heart. Thank a lot,
George


----------



## bazmak (Mar 17, 2015)

I also made a pair many years ago in the apprentice school
I stamped my name,filled with silver solder and cleaned up
before getting them chemically blackend.Gold lettering on
black looks really nice.Must say that yours are a joy to behold
far better than mine.They look too good to use CONGRATS
Regards barry


----------



## GeorgeGreek (Mar 18, 2015)

Hi paul, thenks for kind respone.
I was socarried away by the etching  info that i forgot to thank you.

George


----------



## mcostello (Mar 18, 2015)

Would that last a while to make graduated dials?


----------



## werowance (Mar 18, 2015)

I had considered and still am thinking about the degree marking on my compound.   the painted aluminum degree graduation band that is riveted on my compound now got mangled so I thought if I printed a new one out on a transparency film and then made a new stencil I could do it.

but to many other unfinished, non working projects I need to go back and make right before I start any more.....:hDe:


----------



## GeorgeGreek (Mar 24, 2015)

And a last one!
What is the developer mentioned? Does it come from etcho or you buy it somewhere.

Thanks a lot

George


----------



## werowance (Mar 24, 2015)

edit - when i say mine came from etch o matic, i should say it was etch o matic brand but bought on ebay.
2nd edit - there are folks out there who will make you some stencils with this method if you don't want to buy the kit.
here is a link to just one of many who will make you stencils if you email him the logo or art work.
http://www.erniesknives.com/knifemaker_stencil.html   (i have no experience having them made for you or with this person) but if you don't need a lot of different stencils then this might be the way to go.


mine came from etch-o-matic, there are a few different types. 1 is the type writer kind that you use an old timey type writer or dot matrix printer and the impact of the head actually removes the "resist" material to make the stencil, and the type i used which is the "photo developer" type almost like the process for home photo etching circuit boards for electronics.

don't be scared away by the photo type as it is way easier than it sounds. try a couple of small stencils with just your name so you don't waste so much material if you have mistakes. once you have a good stencil it will last a very long time. these stencils also work for chemical glass etching as well.

here is an ebay listing for a kit that looks to be in about the same rough shape my kit was in but worked like a charm for me
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Etch-O-Mati...568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae6f5b648

and here is a link to etch-o-matic with the stencil kit. also take a look on this same site for glass etching, you will see more about the same stencils
http://www.etch-o-matic.com/440.htm

you also get aluminum sheets coated with a red dye (or at least i did) that has glue on the other side, you photo develop your sign on the aluminum and then stick the sign on. for example, you have an on/off switch that isn't labled, you can print the on/off design on your printer and then develop it on the aluminum and just cut the sheet with scisors and stick on the machine with a professional looking on/off label. no etching even required for that. but the red dye will scratch just like a painted metal on/off switch will eventually.
the price for this kit is in my opinion way over priced and found my kit on ebay for about half the price.

same kit but on glass etching: http://www.glass-etching-kits.com/mark_440.htm


----------



## GeorgeGreek (Mar 24, 2015)

Thanks a lot for fast response and tolerance.

George


----------

