# The beginners tool box



## Tin Falcon

I began the getting started in model engineering thread a long time ago . It has grown and it is well read. I also did a thread on lathe selection . But since I often get the cart before the horse and overlook the obvious I am stating this thread. Please please help with this one . 
So here is the concept . we are going to set up machinist tools box suitable for the home shop machinist .

so here are the guidelines : place a tool into this virtual tool box. 
(1) Limit one tool per thread . Three tools per person. Something that comes as a set is considered one tool. 
(2) This must be a tool you have in your shop and use, like and would recommend to a friend.
(3) Post a photo of the tool. your photo or link to manufacturers or sellers web site. give credit for the photo if not yours. 
(4)list price and availabity as much as possible. 
(5) explain the tool ,its uses and what you like and limitations. Tell us why you think this is a must have tool for the tool box. 
(6) the focus here is filling the virtual tool box but you may post something that does not fit in the box. 
(7) I hope this to be a fun and educational experience for all. 

Tin


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## Tin Falcon

I will start with a tool box that is redily availble in the USA and I believe to be a good bang for the buck especially if you have a coupon . 


Name	Eight Drawer Wood Tool Chest
SKU	94538
Brand	Windsor Design
Drawers	8
Material	Wood
Shipping Volume	2.992
Overall dimensions: 20" L x 10-1/2" W x 16" H
Shipping Weight: 20.65 lbs.
Import from China

Manufacturer Warranty Detail	100% Satisfaction Guarantee! If for ANY reason you are not satisfied with this item, you may return it within 90 days for a full refund or replacement.

regular price $99.99
my price after coupon$ 59.99 40% discount.
This is advertised as hardwood with a walnut stain.
The box appears to be solid wood if there is any laminate it is well hidden. drawer bottoms masonite type material with IMHO a few too many staples holding then in. As far as walnut finish I am not seeing it looks more maple color to me. 
The hardware is advertised as chrome plated. It is there and looks good . The knobs on the display model appeared to be turned aluminum and had a home /shop made appearance. The single handle on the box is on the top a modem version of the handle on top of my vintage union box. There is no lid support in the till. Something that can be added like I did on my Travers import box. The item description mentions single key locking. this is a normal feature for such a box, but not true. this box has two locks each with a pair off keys, one for the till and a second lock for the drawer covers. There is an ugly do not remove this label label inside the drawer cover with the box serial number on it. The box is felt lined the Mrs says the felt is thin, not something I noticed. 
I mentioned drawer bottoms.In comparison my vintage union has tin plate steel for drawer bottoms. My Travers import box has thin ply wood that is captured by the drawer frame. My son's Grizzly box has masonite held with one staple . Remove the staple slide out the drawer bottom and replace with something better.The drawer bottoms on this one will slide out after removing the one staple per inch of drawer. arg. 

If you want Gershner Quality and can afford it buy a Gershner. if you want a value priced import to hold your hobby tools this is IMHO a good value. Add a lid support ,replace the drawer bottoms with aluminum or tinplate steel and you will have a pretty nice box. 


Harbor Freight stock Photo








Thanks for reading. normal disclaimer no affiliations Yada Yada. caravat Emptor I inspected the condition of my box before leaving the store parking lot . I recommend the same for any similar purchase. 
Tin


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## Tin Falcon

No. 563, 6 - Hermaphrodite Caliper, Firm-Joint, 6" (160mm)
This is a tool That was in my USAF apprentice school tool box. Also  this was one of the first tools I purchased for the home tool box, I use this tool primarily for marking shoulders when cutting on the lathe can also be used for marking where to part. this tool can also be used for marking lines and hole locations on flat stock that has smooth straight edges. 

New this item is $50  but I have purchased several from flea markets for IIRC $4-5 each. 

Photo from trancat tools. 






Tin


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## kvom

6" steel rule (or metric equivalent).  Lots of different makes, so I'm skipping pic.

These can cost anywhere from $6 to $50 new, but I've found them for $1-2 apiece used.

I look for the ones with fractional inch on one side and 1/100s on the other.  This was the first machinists tool I purchased, and of course since I can never find anything in my shop I have since bought 6-7 more.  There's usually one lying about in sight that way.

Makes quick measurements easy, and are more flexible than calipers or micrometers in tight spaces.  Well-made ones are extremely accurate (hence the preference for 100ths).


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## stevehuckss396

Double ended edge and hole finder.

I seem to always be looking for it.


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## peatrich

That looks really useful Steve but I have no idea what it does, even though you have described it. 
As a newby I am always looking for tools that increase my accuracy and would welcome a description of how it is used. Being a bit on the thick side of dim a couple of pictures might help me as well.

Best regards
Peter


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## stevehuckss396

Try watching this video: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUa_B6YIt_M[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f0od-cp_9dg[/ame]


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## Fluffy

G'Day All,
Here are some very simple but essential tools required for screwcutting vee & acme threads.
The screw cutting gauges (often referred to as thread centring gauges) on the left are essential for grinding HSS tooling to the correct included angle of the vee thread form to be cut. Then used to set the cutting tool at 90&#730; to the lathe axis prior to commencement of screwcutting. The top two left hand gauges are produced in either 55&#730; or 60&#730;.The bottom left has included angles for metric, imperial, B.A. & acme thread forms. The gauge on the right is the equivalent for acme thread forms. It is also used to gauge tool size & included angle & then again to set the tool in the lathe.
The cost of the vee thread gauges varies from around AUD$10.00 depending on the brand.
The top two left gauges have been in my toolbox since the late 1960's.
Don.


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## Propforward

Tin Falcon said:


> No. 563, 6 - Hermaphrodite Caliper, Firm-Joint, 6" (160mm)
> This is a tool That was in my USAF apprentice school tool box. Also this was one of the first tools I purchased for the home tool box, I use this tool primarily for marking shoulders when cutting on the lathe can also be used for marking where to part. this tool can also be used for marking lines and hole locations on flat stock that has smooth straight edges.
> 
> New this item is $50 but I have purchased several from flea markets for IIRC $4-5 each.
> 
> Photo from trancat tools.
> 
> 
> 
> Tin


 
Hi Tin,

I realise that this post is not in keeping with how you want the thread to go, but I wanted to provide this link on the calipers you mention.

http://www.jtsmach.com/jtswebshop/Measuring/PM199.asp

Basically you can get these calipers from JTS machine supply for 5 to ten bucks. Please feel free to incorporate this link into your post and delete my post to keep the thread clean. (If you think the link is useful).

They are also available from Travers

http://www.travers.com/product.asp?eaprodid=63312%2D57%2D064%2D939&r=s&n=||UserSearch%3Dhermaphrodite+caliper||UserSearch1%3Dblock+id+63312+and+class+level3+id+29821

I think this is a great idea for a thread. As a newcomer to this hobby I am looking for the "right" tools to get started. I have in fact picked up a couple of tools which I shall review per your guidelines this week, but I have to take pictures and so on, but I will add those posts in due course. Already this thread has given me some important pointers.

I have not purchased hermaphrodite calipers from JTS yet, but I am planning on doing so. Going to pick up an edge finder as well!


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## RManley

I work in imperial but almost never use my imperial drills.  A metric box set in 0.1mm increments from 1mm to 10mm allows 4 thou steps.  All you need is a simple chart on the wall and you're away.
This allows you to get as close as you can to the magic 75% thread depth when tapping small holes, open holes out slowly and accurately to undersize stock, are perfect for using the blank end as plug gauges when boring holes and good for doing holes just before reaming to get the required cut depth.  

I cant tell you how much I would be lost without them.  

Rob.


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## Journeyman

A 0" to 1"  (or 0mm to 25mm) Micrometer. These are readily available from most tool suppliers and range from a few £ / $ / &#8364; to quite a lot. The more you pay the better the quality. Moore & Wright, Starrett or Mitutoyo if you can afford. There are two basic types mechanical or digital. The newer digital types are easy to use and present  an LCD readout which requires no interpretation but dont work once the battery goes flat (keep a spare handy) unless you can interpret the mechanical vernier readout. The older manual version requires a bit of math to read, especially the metric version, but needs the minimum of maintenance and is always ready to go.

These are a couple of cheapo's from Amazon Not recommended

Cheers John


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## GWRdriver

An automatic center punch.  Some folks might want to get a magnifying glass or a "linen tester" (Google it) to go along with it.  Very handy to have.


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## GWRdriver

A single point scriber.  I use one constantly.  I never had one with the carbide tip, always just the hardened steel and I could sharpen that to the point where it would stick you if you merely looked at it.


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## GWRdriver

One last nomination . . . a machinist's square set.  I have a 4" (nominal ) set which has done everything I've ever needed to do regardless of size.

I could maybe pull out 40 things I have in my tool boxes that I figured I would "have" to have to do what I want to do and over time what I discovered was that maybe 20 of them are hardly ever touched again, and 15 of them I only use every once in a while, but 5 or 6 of them I use almost constantly.   My three nominations are, in no particular order, a few of the things I use almost constantly.


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## Propforward

Here is a tool that I consider a "Must Have". It is actually a set - a set of squares.

I was attempting to manage with only an adjustable square, and I was doing OK, but this set is really great, because having the 3 different sized squares really helps with a lot of set up jobs. Not just marking and laying out work, but checking squareness of jobs on my drill press for example, and using them to find edges of circualr parts, and also to set up other tools. I only bought this last week and already it has proven itself invaluable.

The set comes in a basic but nice case, with rubber insert, and as well as 3 different sizes of square, includes a center square, scriber and 6" steel rule.

These are photos of my actual set.












I purchased this set through Grizzly - here is the link:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Center-Sq-Set-of-6/H5688

Price $34.95 at time of writing, and in stock.

I am very happy with this set. The only thing I don't especially like is the steel rule. Mainly because I already have better ones - I like to have fractional and decimal inch measurements on a rule, and a separate rule for metric. But otherwise there is nothing inherently wrong with the rule.

I think squares such as these are a fundamental set up requirement in a shop, and I waited too long to acquire these.


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## Propforward

It seems to me that if you are going to do serious work in any kind of machine shop, whether small hobby or large industrial, you had better be serious about setting up, measuring and holding. That is becoming very apparent from the posts - and several good setup and measurement tools have been shown.

Clamping is obviously extremely important, and another recent acquisition of mine is this clamping set, again from Grizzly. I really have been very pleased with the tools I have purchased from there.

This is my actual set:






The set includes: 24 studs, 6 step block pairs, 6 T-nuts, 6 flange nuts, 4 coupling nuts and 6 end hold-downs. I don't have a milling machine (yet), but already this kit has made it MUCH easier for me to quickly and effectively hold work securely and above all SAFELY on my drill press, and I can forsee its use in other applications too.

The clamps and bolts themselves are well made, and everything comes very heavily oiled and wrapped in plastic to protect it during shipping and storage. The plastic rack is also included. That part of it is a little more "cheap", but it does the job. I don't know that I trust the plastic rack to be bolted to the wall, but I have it at the back of my workbench near the drill press, so all the parts are very quickly available - and it really is no trouble to assemble a safe set up on most jobs.

The set is available in two versions with different T nuts (1/2" and 5/8"). The 1/2" set works a treat for me.

Linky:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/52-pc-Clamping-Kit-for-1-2-T-slots/G1075

$37.95 and in stock at the time of writing. Another purchase I am happy that I made.


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## TroyO

I've always been a fan of "Dollar stores" or anything that is $1or less, so here is my "Cheapskate drawer" of must have tools. I am considering this a "set" because they all come from the same place...any $1 store! I will limit it to $10 though: 

1,2,3 ) Permanent marker. Blue, Red and Black. Not for drawing, but rather as a handy way to "dye" a metal surface for use with the hermaphrodite calipers, single point scribe or center punch listed above. (Get singles of the good brands) (Stock Image, Dollar Tree)




4 ) Cheap plastic triangle squares... use in places the machinist square won't or shouldn't go. If they "get in the way" just cut through them.... who cares? (Stock Image, Amazon)




5 ) Dry erase "pad". I use one all the time to jot down measurements, important notes, reminders etc. (Stock Image, Dollar Tree)





6 ) Pill organizer to hold itty bitty parts as you work on things. (Stock Image, Dollar Tree)





7 ) Pen/Pencil holders designed for office desks work just as well for markers, scribes and center punches. Look for metal mesh ones.... you can easily shake out metal chips. (Stock Image, Dollar Tree)





8 ) Calculators! My favorite has a carabineer style clip and I have one clipped on the mill, the tool box, the drill, etc. (Stock Image, Dollar Tree)




9 ) A recent find, worth looking for magnetic vent covers. They are designed to block off heating vents, but are just 6x12 refrigerator magnet material.Use them on your lathe bed/mill table to keep swarf out of the T-slots. (Stock Image, Amazon)




10 )  Graph paper. Remember when we used to draw out ideas and write in measurements by hand? Yeah. I still do that.(Stock image, Amazon)





I hope that is still in keeping with the spirit of the thread!


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## Motormagican

As a new member and a builder without a lathe, I think the information youhave put here is very useful. I too only use pencil and paper for my brass models.I also use a metal multiple calibrated ruler. One day I may try CAD or someother type of drafting program. I have started keeping track of all the parts Idesign for the build in a note book. In the past I make a part and throw thediagram in the trash. 

Thank you for the good information and if you post more I will keep looking.


Thanks to all the builders I am learning a lot from each post.


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## TroyO

My next "tool" is a book... Machinery's Handbook *pocket companion*.

About $20, this is much cheaper than the full "Machinery's Handbook" and has almost all the charts and calculations you will need. Sure, the $100 full hardcover book is a great reference, but leave it inside on a nice clean bookshelf and toss the pocket companion in to the toolbox. (Stock Image, Amazon)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0831129115/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20=






(Note, mine has a gold cover but I'd swear I got it for ~$20 new too... for some reason Amazon has it listed for ~$195 used... must be a typo.)


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## TroyO

My third tool for the collection I chose mostly for it's sheer versatility. From deburring, to correcting mistakes and even taking the place of many specialty cutters (If you are willing to grunt a little) a general set of hand files can't be beat for overall get-er-done effectiveness. (Stock image, Amazon) $35-ish. The better the file, the less the grunt.


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## Beachside_Hank

Troy O submitted a good tip: Graph Paper. This site lets you download your own custom sized grids for printing at home.


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## Tin Falcon

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3184&category=

these T Gauges or telescoping gauges are used to gauge an inside diameter. the measurement is then taken with a micrometer. I showed the pec brand made in USA and half the price of starrett . my favorite set is a used starrett set of four.





IMHO the small set has plenty of range for models.

the technique with these is make the T smaller than the hole. set it at an angle slightly off perpendicular and release the slide so it extends sug slightly then rock the tool the tor slide will compress to the size of the hole . lock the slide in place and measure. this does take some practice. 


smaller holes need smaller gauges. like these





or these




these expand in the hole untill you feel drag when moving the gauge. 
many brands to choose from but make sure the tools adjust smoothly .

IMHO the ones from harbor freight have too rough of a finish on the T gauges for my taste. I would not trust them for consistent and accurate measurements. Mileage may vary ...... 

Again this is a tool I leaned to use in USAF tech school.
All photos are from Littlemachineshop.com 
Tin


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## idahoan

Two of my favorites; both available from Little Machine Shop.

The Tapping block;





http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2571

And the the tap guide;






http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1963&category=

Both of these items are proudly made in the USA and are quite handy. I use both of them in my day job and also in my home shop.

Dave


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## Tin Falcon

> I hope that is still in keeping with the spirit of the thread!


No problem Troy all good ideas many I would not thought of posting here. and not something IN my tool box. 

also the full copy of older editions of the machinery Handbook can be had cheaper than the latest and greatest. They are used as college text books so used copies are available. 

I like the Poster size markers for layout dye. 

The reason I set the guidelines I did was to try to keep things realistic as far as filling a beginners tool box and encourage maximum participation and not have one or two guys fill the box with tools. like I said guidelines. I want this to be fun for as many people  as want to get involved. 
Tin


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## thayer

Why I was using my .400-.500 gauge and my 0-1" micrometer just last night as I bored the cylinders for a couple of new Elmer's engines. That's new to me, by the way. I haven't found Elmer's lost archives.

A lot of folks have mentioned using cigarette papers to find zero as they touch off a tool. They are getting harder to find, but a good substitute and perhaps just as bad for your health are plastic wrappers from "penny" candy. I personally prefer the clear wrapper from the grape or raspberry Jolly Ranchers with results from the watermelon and apple wrappers almost as accurate. I can't get a decent read off the cherry ones to save my life. I suspect many other brands will do as well. Mic the wrapper of your choice after tossing the contents in the bin. I find they are usually right at .001. The clear areas let you see the stock as you get close and I find a little concentrated back light lets me see pretty well when the tool is about to touch down. Keeping a small box of unused JR wrappers also helps ensure my 9-year-old makes it into the shop reasonably often. He had a lot of fun helping me clock in the cylinder blocks in the 4-jaw and determine the offset with my drop indicator mounted on the lathe cross slide.

Speaking of dedicated tool lights, I really like the Jansjo LED work lamps from Ikea. At $10 per, they are worth scattering around the shop. I mounted on to the ceiling joist above my drill press and plugged it into the switched circuit also overhead  (remember the 9-year-old?). Whenever I want to use the drill press the light comes on with the power and reminds me to turn off the circuit at the end of the evening. I also have others mounted near my scroll saw and disk sander, so the waist level switch drives the lamp, tool and shop vac. Yes, the boy is checked out on those.

Attached are stock images from Jolly Rancher and Ikea with a link for more info on the lamp. 

Thayer

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20169658/


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## TroyO

Tin Falcon said:


> also the full copy of older editions of the machinery Handbook can be had cheaper than the latest and greatest. They are used as college text books so used copies are available.


 
That's exactly what I did.... I want to say I got it for ~$30, it was several editions behind and from the early 80's, which matters absolutely naught as my machining equipment uses absolutely no technology that wasn't available by the early 60's, (1860's?) LOL.


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## Tin Falcon

I have several copies of the Machinery Handbook. 
My first one is a copy of the 13th edition post ww 2 1948 I think. when I completed USAF tech school I decided I needed a current copy so purchased a 25 edition from Enco. Later I purchased tool box full of tools including a 22nd edition. And I have digital copies of the 1st/3rd edition and 11th. available on internet archive and can be loaded on a tablet. The latest to the collection is a hard copy of the 1st 1915 edition.  I also have a couple of the guide books. 
and I put a copy of the 25 th edition in my sons tool box. 
25th Edition can be had for under $30 
Tin


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## johnmcc69

Hmmmmmm...beginners tools..
How about this place? HMEM. A great beginners tool.
Years upon years of experience here, friendly folks
To answer ANY questions you may have, advice, best practices,
Tips, tricks, free build plans...

Oh yeah, drill & tap charts, in inch & metric.

John


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## _shadow_

Fantastic thread! Subscribed.

Regards


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## Tin Falcon

I posted these in hole layout 101 here are a few valuable layout tools 



 you NEED two finished edges that are perpendicular (square) to each other.  use a poster marker to dye the part.







 scribe  lines with one of these. 




sitting on a granite surface plate and resting against





Once all lines are scribed  use an optical center punch to punch centers of the holes. 




Above photo grizzly tools
Then center punch with one of these:





photo HF tools

Then drill with a thin drill bit like 1/16 this will follow the punch mark. then with a spot drill . the a pilot drill and finish drill . 
Hope this helps. 


for bolt circles I like a 6 hole cirlce it so happens that the radius of the circle and the cord distance between holes is the same. Uese the humble diver to lay out.






or you can use the above method to lay out after converting from polar to rectangular coordinates. This can be done with math or consulting the machinery handbook.
Hope this helps
 tin
And guys there is still room in the tool box so feel free to add to the box.


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## canadianhorsepower

stevehuckss396 said:


> Double ended edge and hole finder.
> 
> I seem to always be looking for it.


 
it's probably hiding with mine:wall:


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## Omnimill

A 1 inch Paint Brush!  I always have one on or near the mill and the lathe for cleaning stuff down, particulary the milling vice. I paint the ends red so I don't lose them and drill a hole through the handle for hanging them up. Doesn't have to be a Purdy though!


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## el gringo

Starrett 'apprentice' tool kit. circa 1940


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## Alchymist

Thread gauges.


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## Mosey

Here is one I use every day, and I don't think we need to explain how. This is a cheap Exacto one with brass tip.


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## terrywerm

How about a dial indicator, magnetic base, and dial test indicator set??  This one is from littlemachineshop.com


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## terrywerm

And how about a quality dial caliper??  This photo is from midwayusa's website and is a nice Starrett unit.


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## terrywerm

And don't forget the item that gets me to the shop in the first place:






Pic from spreadshirt.com


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## terrywerm

One last thing, probably the most important item in the toolbox, and I don't think I have to name them:






And the side shields are necessary too!!

Many thanks to directindustry.com for the photo


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## idahoan

Terry, the coffee mug is great and fits me to a tee! Where did you find it?

Dave


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## terrywerm

idahoan said:


> Terry, the coffee mug is great and fits me to a tee! Where did you find it?
> 
> Dave


 
Found it on www.spreadshirt.com     They have a "product builder" tool there where you can select a coffee mug, then add a design to it from the ones they have, plus you can add custom text if you like.  You can get the text shown on the mug on t-shirts also. They've got a whole bunch of machinist related stuff there.


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## gus

A pair of stainless steel engineer's square from China. Paid S$10 for both from a local hardware shop.. Moisture in my three open sided balcony workshop would rust any regular traditional squares. Squares is a must when marking out.

( Would love to hijack that toolmakers chest. Chronos UK and Arceuro UK won't ship to Far East. May end up making my own)


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## gus

Tin Falcon said:


> I will start with a tool box that is redily availble in the USA and I believe to be a good bang for the buck especially if you have a coupon .
> 
> 
> Name	Eight Drawer Wood Tool Chest
> SKU	94538
> Brand	Windsor Design
> Drawers	8
> Material	Wood
> Shipping Volume	2.992
> Overall dimensions: 20" L x 10-1/2" W x 16" H
> Shipping Weight: 20.65 lbs.
> Import from China
> 
> Manufacturer Warranty Detail	100% Satisfaction Guarantee! If for ANY reason you are not satisfied with this item, you may return it within 90 days for a full refund or replacement.
> 
> regular price $99.99
> my price after coupon$ 59.99 40% discount.
> This is advertised as hardwood with a walnut stain.
> The box appears to be solid wood if there is any laminate it is well hidden. drawer bottoms masonite type material with IMHO a few too many staples holding then in. As far as walnut finish I am not seeing it looks more maple color to me.
> The hardware is advertised as chrome plated. It is there and looks good . The knobs on the display model appeared to be turned aluminum and had a home /shop made appearance. The single handle on the box is on the top a modem version of the handle on top of my vintage union box. There is no lid support in the till. Something that can be added like I did on my Travers import box. The item description mentions single key locking. this is a normal feature for such a box, but not true. this box has two locks each with a pair off keys, one for the till and a second lock for the drawer covers. There is an ugly do not remove this label label inside the drawer cover with the box serial number on it. The box is felt lined the Mrs says the felt is thin, not something I noticed.
> I mentioned drawer bottoms.In comparison my vintage union has tin plate steel for drawer bottoms. My Travers import box has thin ply wood that is captured by the drawer frame. My son's Grizzly box has masonite held with one staple . Remove the staple slide out the drawer bottom and replace with something better.The drawer bottoms on this one will slide out after removing the one staple per inch of drawer. arg.
> 
> If you want Gershner Quality and can afford it buy a Gershner. if you want a value priced import to hold your hobby tools this is IMHO a good value. Add a lid support ,replace the drawer bottoms with aluminum or tinplate steel and you will have a pretty nice box.
> 
> 
> Harbor Freight stock Photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for reading. normal disclaimer no affiliations Yada Yada. caravat Emptor I inspected the condition of my box before leaving the store parking lot . I recommend the same for any similar purchase.
> Tin




Hi Tin,
Been trying very hard to buy one of this. 
UK vendors won't ship to Singapore.:wall::wall::wall:
Looks like I have to make my own again.
Will try Harbour Freight.


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## Alchymist

gus said:


> Hi Tin,
> Been trying very hard to buy one of this.
> UK vendors won't ship to Singapore.:wall::wall::wall:
> Looks like I have to make my own again.
> Will try Harbour Freight.



Harbor Freight has them here in the US, don't know why they couldn't order you one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/eight-drawer-wood-tool-chest-94538.html


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## Lykle

> Hi Tin,
> Been trying very hard to buy one of this.
> UK vendors won't ship to Singapore.
> Looks like I have to make my own again.



I designed my own to be made via Ponoko.

From 5 mm plywood, double skinned. Only trouble is, I have not been able to have them lasered yet as I am lacking the funds. 
But it looks like it will work and the nice thing is, they will simply snap together, so basically you are shipping a flat packed tool chest.

I even included the laser cut felt sheets or leather, for the covering of the drawers. 
Ah well, one day I will "print" them and post a pic.

Lykle


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## dnalot

Tin has advised us to read all the sticky's and so I have been reviewing them all. Could not help noticing this one "Starter tool Chest" didn't show the first thing that went in mine. 

Mark T


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## Tin Falcon

This could be handy as well antibacterial anti fungal skin ointment helps small cuts heal



Tin


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## aarggh

Tea Tree Oil is a fantastic balm, another one that we've found extremely good for irritations and dermatitis/eczema (damn that's a stupid word!) type rashes is Emu Oil. Works a treat.

cheers, Ian


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## DanP

There should also be some Elbow grease for clean-up after the project is finished.


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## moya034

Being that I'm new to the world of machining, and am now in the process of getting a shop together... keep the ideas coming! Good suggestions here.


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## Tin Falcon

You need taps and dies. 
1) you need to decide what standard. 
    a) 2-56  to 1/4 -20
     b) BA standard threads 
    c) metric 

The temptation here is to buy a set. The problem is all sets I have seen are 4 flute taps. 4 flute taps are great for chasing threads .The problem  with 4 flute taps is you have to continually interrupt the cut to break the chip. 

spiral point taps are made for though holes and can be run in under power.They push the chips ahead of the tap
spiral flute taps bring the chips up and out ,are designed for blind holes  and again can be run in under power. 
forming taps create no chip  run in by power fast and need a larger than normal tap drill. 

Dies form male threads taps form female threads. 

Tin


----------



## Wizard69

Taps are an interesting discussion.

One issue with the cheaper tap and die sets is that they are often carbon steel.    At least in the lower cost variant they are.    You then have to decide if carbon steel makes sense.   Old gun smiths for example liked carbon steel because one could often remove broken tap with a hammer and punch.   I tend to prefer HSS steel is I believe they are less brittle.

Since in this business we are already working with small easy to break taps there is some logic in preferring two flute or thread forming taps.   Either way a tapping stand or the various approaches to guide blocks are a smart investment.   There is nothing worst than breaking off a tap in a project that is nearly complete.   So for the beginner it is advisable to practice tapping some, to get the hang of it, before moving on to a project.   

Beyond that LUBE!   The right tapping fluid can work wonders here.   Especially if the material is difficult to cut.   I'd go so far as to recommend a can of tapping fluid specific to each type of material you are likely to have to run a tap into.   If properly used, a can will last for years if not decades in a home shop.   Even so any lube is better than no lube.



Tin Falcon said:


> You need taps and dies.
> 1) you need to decide what standard.
> a) 2-56  to 1/4 -20
> b) BA standard threads
> c) metric
> 
> The temptation here is to buy a set. The problem is all sets I have seen are 4 flute taps. 4 flute taps are great for chasing threads .The problem  with 4 flute taps is you have to continually interrupt the cut to break the chip.
> 
> spiral point taps are made for though holes and can be run in under power.They push the chips ahead of the tap
> spiral flute taps bring the chips up and out ,are designed for blind holes  and again can be run in under power.
> forming taps create no chip  run in by power fast and need a larger than normal tap drill.
> 
> Dies form male threads taps form female threads.
> 
> Tin


----------



## moya034

I've always believed even if you aren't a machinist, and just a mechanic, taps and dies are an indispensable part of any toolbox.

The info regarding spiral point taps was news to me. My Pop-Pop taught me about breaking the chips while tapping back in my early teenage years. 

What are good brand names to look for in drills/taps/dies and what vendors do you use for them? I've been frustrated by the quality of the crap that I can buy locally.

Also, it was my (probably misinformed) impression that most machinists would rather cut external threads on a lathe then use a die. Is this not true, or does it depend on the circumstances?


----------



## Tin Falcon

Cleveland and greenfield tap and die are the good old made in usa brands OSG  is also very good. 

A good set of drill bits for not huge money can be had here

Screw machine drill bits
these are made in usa.

screw machine bits are nice for small machines with limited Z travel.
Tin


----------



## Wizard69

moya034 said:


> I've always believed even if you aren't a machinist, and just a mechanic, taps and dies are an indispensable part of any toolbox.


I still have many taps in my tool box from working in a foundry 30 years ago.   They are as you say indispensable.


> The info regarding spiral point taps was news to me. My Pop-Pop taught me about breaking the chips while tapping back in my early teenage years.


A good spiral point tap is suppose to push the chips forwards.   I've had occasions where "breaking the chips" helps with a spiral point tap.   Often I believe that is an issue of working in the lube though.


> What are good brand names to look for in drills/taps/dies and what vendors do you use for them? I've been frustrated by the quality of the crap that I can buy locally.


This I understand 100%.   If you want to buy locally you will have to find a solid industrial supplier.   Most big cities have them.   However I find it much easier these days to get on line and order form one of the big houses.   Examples would be:

Travers
Enco
MSC
Mc Master-Carr
& etc
There are many more to choose from.    Realize that these guys sell cheap crap too, you get what you pay for.


> Also, it was my (probably misinformed) impression that most machinists would rather cut external threads on a lathe then use a die. Is this not true, or does it depend on the circumstances?



Like everything in life it depends.  Some guys will start the threads on a lathe and finish with a die.


----------



## Alchymist

moya034 said:


> I've always believed even if you aren't a machinist, and just a mechanic, taps and dies are an indispensable part of any toolbox.
> 
> The info regarding spiral point taps was news to me. My Pop-Pop taught me about breaking the chips while tapping back in my early teenage years.
> 
> What are good brand names to look for in drills/taps/dies and what vendors do you use for them? I've been frustrated by the quality of the crap that I can buy locally.
> 
> Also, it was my (probably misinformed) impression that most machinists would rather cut external threads on a lathe then use a die. Is this not true, or does it depend on the circumstances?



Have had pretty good luck with Irwin and Brubaker taps.


----------



## moya034

Thanks for the info!



Wizard69 said:


> Like everything in life it depends.  Some guys will start the threads on a lathe and finish with a die.



This makes sense. I've always found it a little harder to cut good external threads with a die then internal threads with a tap. I can see where starting the process on a lathe would give the die a running start, so to speak, making for more accurate threads with less chance of "rocking" the die back and forth. Finishing with the die would clearly be faster then completing the cut on the lathe.


----------



## Tin Falcon

As of 8-3-13 I  moved the emu stories to the break room. so folks can focus on tool choices.
If anyone want to exchange further Emu stories feel free to post them to that thread. 
Tin


----------



## wakeup

Taps and dies.....I always look for high speed steel with a ground thread.  The ground thread bit is the important bit.  In the workshop I have a few carbon steel taps with machined (milled?) flutes.  Without exception they have large burrs which would completely stuff up any thread.  Most of the threads I generate tend to be fairly small and with a fine thread, in aluminium alloy.  I recently spent over $30 buying, what I thought was a M4 x 0.5 Dormer HSS/GT die only to find that it had burrs bigger than the thread form.  It wasn't made by Dormer.  Sadly I made this discovery only after getting rid of the receipt.
cheers
Bill


----------



## Tin Falcon

I have been looking at my tool box and looking at the tools here. and I see a few things that could easily be added here.  I will be kind and just add a couple so others can still contribute. 
A handy tool that comes to mind is a a silver pencil. This is a tool I learned of in USAF Aircraft Structural repair school  aka sheet metal school. The silver pencil is the only tool allowed for use to layout aluminum for aircraft repair. the carbon left behind by a regular pencil can case problems.  
This pencil is also used by welders as the line does not burn off. 

Mine are marketed through the Hobart welding supply chain and purchased through Tractor supply. 




$ 9. xx for a lead holder with 6 leads
Photo from fleetfarm.com

I like the plastic lead holder with the relacement leads. but staples .com has silver streak welding pencils fro $7.99 a dozen. 

The advantage of the wood ones is they are cheaper and you have spares in case you brake one or get it to close to hot work. 

Silver-Streak® Red-Riter® Welder's Pencil is economical and has high-strength.

Available colors: Red and silver
Marks resistant to torch flames; will not rub off or burn off like soapstone
Highly visible marks illuminate when cutting or welding
Durable marks will not scratch or abrade metal surfaces
Hexagonal shape reduces barrel roll unlike competitive brands
Sharpen with any standard pencil sharpener
Economical, high-strength pencil is ideal for marking all types of metal surfaces  even oily, rusty or wet surfaces
Physical State: Flat Silver Solid
Specific Gravity: >1
Shape: Hexagonal

Tin


----------



## MCRIPPPer

i will put a +1 for a good file. i like single cut files because they work great for getting the bur off after milling or turning. get a good quality file and you can create smoother surface than milling! im pretty sure the files i have are second cut. if you keep them clean they will cut like crazy. you really only need one or two nice ones.


----------



## Tin Falcon

Transfer punches are a tool not yet mentioned. Like drill bits they come in many sizes  115 different sizes for imperial and then of course a metric set.







the idea is you have a part that needs to mate to another part you . The first part has holes in it the second part needs holes that align with the first part . you clamp the two together then use these punches to "transfer"hole locations.

these are available from many vendors and the presentaion may vary from tool roll to plastic or metal stand. 
Tin


----------



## gus

Transfer Punches.
Long time ago,thought these were essential items. Drilling matching holes to accept flanges was a hit & miss and pain in the side.
After buying one set from UK vendor and all my mismatching woes are over.

Gus now looking for other essential tools not discovered. 

Oh Yeah!!! Corner radius mills.

Looking for brand new old fashion H.T. Ignition Coil for Webbie equally tough.


----------



## Hopper

A good old-fashioned hacksaw was one of the items in my first year apprentice toolbox. 
Indispensable for cutting stock to rough size, seized bolts, slotting, parting (ok ok sit down in the back row) and with a 10" bastard file and 10" millsaw file can substitute for a milling machine in many instances.

Always slacken off the wing nut after use so the blade is not under tension during storage. This stops the frame from bending and getting slack over the years. My apprentice hacksaw is still in use in my home workshop 40 years later. I still find its use much more "therapeutic" than a noisy angle grinder that throws sparks and grit all over the shop.


----------



## Tin Falcon

How about 1-2-3 blocks. 






many used for setup and layout.
Tin


----------



## pete

terrywerm said:


> How about a dial indicator, magnetic base, and dial test indicator set??  This one is from littlemachineshop.com


How can or could anyone argue with Terry's points? The thread title was "Beginners tool box" Ok fine, a DI and DTI really aren't optional, and..........will never be optional in my simple and humble opinion. However I can't say the same for a lot of the other optional tools others have listed here. 

I could I guess mention a decent range of educational books. Anyone remember books? I don't know about anyone else, but learning and understanding how to think about all this is just as important as the latest damn tool you can buy.

Learning and understanding that concept takes a hell of a long time. At least it did for me.

Pete


----------



## Tin Falcon

So Pete show us your list of beginners essentials. 
and what do think is missing from our list?
Tin


----------



## gus

May I suggest feeler gages to set ignition contact points?


----------



## Alchymist

gus said:


> May I suggest feeler gages to set ignition contact points?



I have 4 or 5 sets of feeler gauges here and there among the tool boxes. Most haven't been used much. Not a lot of points ignition systems anymore, even on small gas engines. Not that they aren't handy for some other things.....


----------



## Tin Falcon

Here is an import kit from Travers tools 







$ 154 so likely import but nice small box to keep the tools in and sows the basics. 
Tin


----------



## Wizard69

Tin Falcon said:


> So Pete show us your list of beginners essentials.
> and what do think is missing from our list?
> Tin



I just read through this list for a second time, and I'm thing we need to start a document for beginners even intermediate level machinists.   After awhile it ought to distill into something that is very useful for a beginner.     Being new here I'm not sure where such a document should be stored.


----------



## Wizard69

I like this thread as it should be helpful to many.   I have a few things to add to the list.  

1.
Tweezers, in this case fine point for removing the nasties that get stuck in out hands.  

2.
4-1/2" right angle grinder.   Now I know many a machinist will cringe at the thought of such a device in a shop but I see it as a very good cost effective investment for a beginner.  It can be used to cut up stock, grind and fit stock for everything from a work bench to a casting for what ever you are building.   It is a cheap solution that is good enough until you acquire better equipment.    Further if you need to fabricate anything for your shop it might be seen as required.  

3.
A one inch belt sander.  

4.
A chisel and punch set.  

5.
Magnifiers.


----------



## Tin Falcon

> A chisel and punch set.
> 
> Magnifiers.




YES pin punches can be very handy. prick punch center punch and chisels.
magnifiers handy for the over 40 crows which I guess is a majority here. 

tin


----------



## Wizard69

Tin Falcon said:


> YES pin punches can be very handy. prick punch center punch and chisels.
> magnifiers handy for the over 40 crows which I guess is a majority here.
> 
> tin



Yes moving past 50 does change what is mandatory in ones toolbox.    It is one of the reasons I prefer digital devices such as calipers and iMacs these days.


----------



## oldtruck

lay out dye 
WD40 
WD40 will keep surface rust off till you Finnish the project it can be easy wiped off an also a good lube for assy.


----------



## gus

Alchymist said:


> I have 4 or 5 sets of feeler gauges here and there among the tool boxes. Most haven't been used much. Not a lot of points ignition systems anymore, even on small gas engines. Not that they aren't handy for some other things.....




You are right. Honda/Robin Petrol Engines went CDI in the 1990s(maybe earlier).Prior to that Petrol Engine drive compressor packages comes back for contact point replacement during the warranty period.Left it to my repairmen to take care.Sad. Never had time to familiarise with CDI in the assembly plant.

CDI with Johnson Outboard Engines were burning off like firecrackers in the 80s.Somehow they always break down after warranty period and expensive to replace.

Old fashion contact point can be hard to tune for advance and retard.My service supervisor does a great job get the timing perfect.Watched him do it by watching the radiator water in rush every time he vrooms engine.Gus never mastered it.

Now comtemplating to switch over to CDI for Webbie to improve the engine firing during idling. How sad .Contact points and feeler gages now belong to Jurassic Period.


----------



## gus

Tin Falcon said:


> YES pin punches can be very handy. prick punch center punch and chisels.
> magnifiers handy for the over 40 crows which I guess is a majority here.
> 
> tin



Gus is somehow lucky.At 70 he can still read conventional mikes n vernier calipers with one slightly cataractic right eye.
But I am still struggling with pin punching on the cross hair.:wall::hDe:
Removing splinters is a problem but I bought a tweezer with magnifying glass from TokyuHands.

Digital mikes sure help.

Hopefully.I have ten more years of good eyesight and health to build engines.


----------



## westender

Screw machine drills are shorter than jobber drills, and are very handy when your lathe doesn't have much distance between centers.

Tom


----------



## westender

Surface gauges, in conjunction with a flat surface(surface plate, drill press table) and your combination square, are another means of laying out holes on a work piece. Starrett makes them in several sizes.

http://content.yudu.com/A290vg/Star...?referrerUrl=http://www.starrett.com/catalogs

Tom

p.s. This link gets you to the catalogue. Then click on "precision shop tools", then go to page 321. I Have a no. 57 and a no. 56. The smaller one is handier for model work.


----------



## Wizard69

westender said:


> Screw machine drills are shorter than jobber drills, and are very handy when your lathe doesn't have much distance between centers.
> 
> Tom



This is a good point short drills solve space issues not just in a lathe but also milling machines and drill presses.  

Now some may resist the temptation to buy yet another set of drill bits but there is a way to end up with a set without actually buying a set.   This involves a Drill Doctor or other sharpening method for the drill bits in question.   The trick here is to never throw out perfectly good drill bits but to resharpen as needed.   Normal sharpening would eventually get you there.   

However if the drill bit is worn in the margin it may still be savable.    Instead of throwing it away use a cutoff wheel to clip the drill bit past the worn margin and then use the Drill Doctor to re establish the pint shape.    Usually you can end up with a usable drill with two or three re settings of the bit in the Drill Doctor.  This may sound like more work for the Drill Doctor than it is designed for but is seems to hold up fine for limited use.    Of course this works with any drill grinding system that can re establish a drills point.  I just mention the Drill Doctor because it is the approach I've used recently and it is pretty trouble free.   Atleast in the context of medium sized drill bits.   

The point here is that you need to sharpen drill bits anyways.   Combine that with the fact that some operations will wear the Margin more than others resulting in the need at times to clip the drill bit.    Eventually you will have a set of short drills without buying them.   In fact drill bits are good tool steel, one should keep then around as long as possible.


----------



## brian13b

how does the double ended one work?  Whats the object. I understand how the single but not the double...thanks Brian


----------



## brian13b

Tin Falcon said:


> I posted these in hole layout 101 here are a few valuable layout tools
> Then drill with a thin drill bit like 1/16 this will follow the punch mark. then with a spot drill . the a pilot drill and finish drill .
> Hope this helps.
> 
> 
> for bolt circles I like a 6 hole cirlce it so happens that the radius of the circle and the cord distance between holes is the same. Uese the humble diver to lay out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or you can use the above method to lay out after converting from polar to rectangular coordinates. This can be done with math or consulting the machinery handbook.
> Hope this helps
> tin
> And guys there is still room in the tool box so feel free to add to the box.


 

Ive heard of this, but how does it work?  The formula?  thanks Brian


----------



## Tin Falcon

The dividers are one of the most basic tools in geometry navigation and this case layout.  Often used along with a straightedge and scribe. this tool can bisect a line  or an arc. layout a right triangle (3-4-5 ) rule etc.   

as far as laying out a bolt circle it is a matter of scribing the circle then diving into the desired segments. Like said a six hole pattern requires no math as the segment length is equal to the circle radius. 
behold that one can use the segment of a circle formula or a published constant table to determine segment length. 
and of course trial and error will work but tedius. Just ask in a separate post and I will dig up some more info. Brain a bit tired at the moment. 
Tin


----------



## Howi

I hope I don't offend anyone, but I think we have lost the thread somewhat.
A beginners toolbox only needs the bare basics, everything else is on a 'as needed' basis.
Some means of marking out, 6 and 12 inch rulers, dividers, scriber, engineers square.
Some means to do drilling ( depth of pocket will determine quality)
Drills, here my preference ( as a relative beginner myself) is for a set of number drills. The largest in the set being just under 6mm. Anything above that, buy as needed.
Some means of shaping, a set of files.
Some means of holding work, vice.


Finally some means of venting frustration because you don't have all the tools/gadgets everyone else seems to have, my suggestion a large hammer to berate the part you have just screwed up due to not having the right tools!!!


Oh! Nearly forgot - a good tool catalogue, something to drool over saying to ones self ' I NEED one of those, and that, got to have a set of those etc etc.
When you have done, tot the price up and give yourself a heart attack.


Finally, get your wife/partner to make a new set of extra deep pockets in your trousers, boy are you going to need them.


Have a nice day folks........


----------



## Nicolas

This is one of the tools I use every day, a mitutoyo micrometer
I know that the digital and mechanical micrometer has already been mentioned earlier on in the thread but this is slightly different. It is very easy to read.
I'm not sure what this type is called but it is very handy and doesn't require batteries 
Not sure where the best place to buy them is as this is one of the tools my dad has had in one of his draws for years.


----------



## Alchymist

Not exactly the same type readout, but similar.....and easy on old tired eyes.


----------



## purpleknif

I would suggest an "Interapid type" indicator like L.M.S #3709. Way more versatile and easier to use than a dovetail style. Or you can spend $180 for an Interapid. Doubt that its that much better but most shops want you to have an Interapid.


----------



## westender

purpleknif said:


> I would suggest an "Interapid type" indicator like L.M.S #3709. Way more versatile and easier to use than a dovetail style. Or you can spend $180 for an Interapid. Doubt that its that much better but most shops want you to have an Interapid.



Interapid indicators are pleasure to use, especially on a Bridgeport.

If you have a small lathe, you might prefer an indicator that is physically smaller. I use a second-hand ($20.00 in 1980)Starrett 711 Last Word,  on my 6" Craftsman 101.21400, as well as my larger lathe.

Tom


----------



## jimmcd

My three beginners essentials not yet mentioned 

1 - Hammers  - Ball pein 3/4-2lb and also a plastic mallet & a "Thor" copper/rawhide mallet. The Ball pein for centre-dabbing but NOT for hitting precision workpieces or chucks, use the mallets for this. Unfortunately in my workplace there is always a bigger hammer to make pieces fit.

2 - Clamps - both "G" clamps and "Toolmakers" clamps, invaluable for drilling & milling.

3 - A spirit level - a starrett pocket level (2") for setting up workpieces & a 4" magnetic level with adjustable angle positions (great for checking parts in a bandsaw or larger components in a machine


----------



## gus

Hi Guys,

By now, I think the beginner machinist have grown up and to move into the next phase.


----------



## jeanalvitre

Fantastic thread..
Very well documented and very well explained.

thank you..


----------



## Tin Falcon

Thank you jean .
Please post an introduction in the welcome are tell us about yourself your shop and your interest in model engine building. And do not worry if english is a second language just do your best. 
Tin


----------



## DanP

"By now, I think the beginner machinist have grown up and to move into the next phase."  I think by now, the beginner's tool box has taken over the house.


----------



## westender

I have not seen any mention of face shields in this thread. 

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/72052558?fromRR=Y

 I wear a face shield over my safety glasses for grinding, wire wheeling, and when machining free-cutting metals. Leaded brass, for example, slings tiny chips like crazy.

 I wear extra  protection when handling hazardous chemicals. Where I worked, our eye protection was safety glasses with side shields, chemical goggles, and a face shield when handling certain chemicals. I check the chemical's Material Safety Data Sheet for the correct personal protective equipment to wear. If in doubt, I call the manufacturer's 800 number. 

PITA? Yes. Retiring with two good eyes? Priceless.

Tom


----------



## robcas631

Tin Falcon said:


> I began the getting started in model engineering thread a long time ago . It has grown and it is well read. I also did a thread on lathe selection . But since I often get the cart before the horse and overlook the obvious I am stating this thread. Please please help with this one .
> So here is the concept . we are going to set up machinist tools box suitable for the home shop machinist .
> 
> so here are the guidelines : place a tool into this virtual tool box.
> (1) Limit one tool per thread . Three tools per person. Something that comes as a set is considered one tool.
> (2) This must be a tool you have in your shop and use, like and would recommend to a friend.
> (3) Post a photo of the tool. your photo or link to manufacturers or sellers web site. give credit for the photo if not yours.
> (4)list price and availabity as much as possible.
> (5) explain the tool ,its uses and what you like and limitations. Tell us why you think this is a must have tool for the tool box.
> (6) the focus here is filling the virtual tool box but you may post something that does not fit in the box.
> (7) I hope this to be a fun and educational experience for all.
> 
> Tin


 
Sometimes I have to view something on my lathe that is in an obscure place. Instead I use a Dental Mirror. It's safer! Most hardware stores carry them. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w9103


----------



## robcas631

This book?


----------



## goldstar31

Speaking of Dental Mirrors, I have a wife and daughter both of whom are or were dental surgeons. My wife  no2 Fellow of the Royal College of Surgeons in Dentistry in Edinburgh and my daughter, like her Mum, a consultant orthodontist.
 So I have mirrors but some are placed in different places like the back of a tool and cutter grinder to view progress. It means that one can watch the facet of a tool being ground. Facets on tools become chipped or worn and the crafty system is to leave them on the grinder-after coating the faces with a waterproof ink from a cheap felt pen. Once the minute amount comes offleaves a true face, you are there. However, those wicked probes ( that get into those rotten bits) make invaluable scribers!

 Me, with my wife's retirement, I have a pile of junk with assorted accessories that make pliers that will wind springs or hold a bit for soldering or even to cast something rather than a pair of 'gnashers'.  Again, there is a set of things to 'improve' my feeble efforts at lost wax casting. 

 The last contribution came from my daughter who presented my weary eyes -with a pair of surgeons binoculars. She'd won them in some 'free-bie' thing with sales people. They went with a loupe from the author of two books on locomotive gears- because I had saved him a few coins( a lot, really) when his BMW died on my driveway - with acid corrosion in its engine. Now there's a topic not covered here.
 Lots not mentioned, eh?

 Norman


----------



## robcas631

Norman

 I think you are covered regarding mirrors! My wife found a pair of surgical clamps. They work great for holding peices when soldering! 

http://i02.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/880/680/242/1271424311412_hz_fileserver2_248075.jpg


----------



## goldstar31

Apologies to one and all but I was getting, like the guy on a stretcher- somewhat carried away!


----------



## mikbul

Each hammer has a purpose but I find I use the plastic head the most, followed by the home made brass head with knurled aluminum handle, the ball peen, and rubber mallet. The plastic and brass were both purchased at a local used tool shop called the Tool Shed for $5.00 each. I've got most of my Starrett micrometers there along with a bunch of other machinists tools.

Also not a tool but a tip. If you have a good set of drills there's always sizes in there that you almost never use, I use those to pre-dill a hole then finish with the size needed. Your most used drills will stay sharper longer that way.


----------



## + or - Zero

mikbul said:


> Each hammer has a purpose but I find I use the plastic head the most, followed by the home made brass head with knurled aluminum handle, the ball peen, and rubber mallet. The plastic and brass were both purchased at a local used tool shop called the Tool Shed for $5.00 each. I've got most of my Starrett micrometers there along with a bunch of other machinists tools.


 Ditto all those hammers, but I use a dead blow hammer quite a lot --you might consider adding one to your group, they are pretty useful.  Zero.


----------



## mikbul

+ or - Zero said:


> Ditto all those hammers, but I use a dead blow hammer quite a lot --you might consider adding one to your group, they are pretty useful. Zero.


 
I've been looking at them but can't decide on a weight. I know, get em all!


----------



## Tin Falcon

> I use a dead blow hammer quite a lot --you might consider adding one to your group, they are pretty useful. Zero.



Agreed . fantastic for seating parts in a mill vice and good for indicating parts. 



> I've been looking at them but can't decide on a weight. I know, get em all!


I would suggest you choose based on the size of your machines and some extent  parts. 

IIRC a 2lb dead blow is about right to seat parts in a 6" Kurt vise and a Bridgeport. 
A 1 lb  for an x2 mill  . I worked in a machine shop large machines
IIRC  one of the lathes was a 36" swing by 10 foot center to center. 
We turned 24" compressor impellers  we used a about a 10 lb dead blow with a  36" handle . We used this hammer to indicate the impellers. 

Tin


----------



## SmithDoor

Here is my first machinist tool box
My father and my self made in 1969 from scrape lumber has work great and still working today

Dave


----------



## gus

Hi Dave,

That will be many happy hours of using the Tool Chest and tools etc easily to find.
Here's mine done with custom cut to size plywood.Carpentry nowadays is made easy with cordless tools and modern glue and Lacquer. I have no choice but to use M.I.C. aka Made In China for Tool Chest. Still trying hard to locate Japanese plywood which is very high quality and pricy. The drawer knobs are DIY Custom made .
Now on holiday in JAPAN.


----------



## Tin Falcon

we have a show us you shop thread and a show us your lathe thread do we need to start a "Show us your tool chest" thread?
Tin


----------



## Nicolas

Tin Falcon said:


> we have a show us you shop thread and a show us your lathe thread do we need to start a "Show us your tool chest" thread?
> Tin



I think that would be a good idea, I for one would be very interested


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## DanP

I also think that would be a good idea.  Especially in small shops and how others fit everything in.


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## Justmental

DanP said:


> I also think that would be a good idea.  Especially in small shops and how others fit everything in.



will post a picture of my my craped 8x6 shed tomorrow has a small lathe & mill in there and my tig welder.
to be made bigger next year as got to get a motorbike jig in there.


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## Kwtaylor

johnmcc69 said:


> Hmmmmmm...beginners tools..
> How about this place? HMEM. A great beginners tool.
> Years upon years of experience here, friendly folks
> To answer ANY questions you may have, advice, best practices,
> Tips, tricks, free build plans...
> 
> Oh yeah, drill & tap charts, in inch & metric.
> 
> John



What?  No picture?


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