# First Engine Elmer's #29



## RCGUY (Jan 3, 2012)

I have used a small lathe for the last 2 years and have just purchased a milling machine (Micro-Lux R8). If all goes well with this engine I hope to build a Twin Cylinder Marine Engine for an RC Boat. I plan on building the Mine Engine according to the plans, however I did make the base plate a little wider and higher. I will most likely have lots of questions, so please add you advice.

I have started at the bottom and will work my way up. All the base plates are milled to size.

Ed


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## Troutsqueezer (Jan 3, 2012)

Measure twice, cut once.


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## mklotz (Jan 3, 2012)

Measure twice, cut once, weld, repeat.


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## rleete (Jan 3, 2012)

I see you use (nearly) the same method as me. But I usually have to scrap the part and start over, as I can't weld worth a damn, either.


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## Metal Butcher (Jan 3, 2012)

A while back I built Elmers #29 and modified the base.

Below is a link to my build thread in 2010. Might be of help and give you some ideas.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=8514.0

-MB


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## RCGUY (Jan 3, 2012)

Metal Butcher,

I found your build thread a couple of weeks ago and have been studying it. Your build is what inspired me to build the #29. You have posted some excellent how to pictures. 

RCGUY


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## RCGUY (Jan 5, 2012)

I have all the base plates and bearing blocks drilled, tapped and assembled with 4-40 screws. My next step is to line bore the bearing blocks for 3/8" bushings. I need to think how I will mount this in the vice and back up the bearing blocs while assembled, any advice?

Ed


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## lazylathe (Jan 5, 2012)

Looks like a great start Ed!!!!

Looking forward to following you on your journey!

Andrew


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## RCGUY (Jan 20, 2012)

Since the last post I profiled the bearing blocks and bored them out for bushings that still need to be trimmed. I was going to make the four posts out of aluminum but changed them to brass, they are drilled and tapped to 4-40. The 1/4" shaft went right into the bushings and spun freely (I was amazed). Today I milled the table and tapped the 2 holes for 2-56 screws. Thanks to Marv's *boltcirc* program I was able to drill the holes correctly.

Ed


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## RCGUY (Apr 12, 2012)

I cut the profile on the two upper base plates using my table saw. I used an 80 tooth carbide blade. The profile is 7/16" less at the top which works out to 7 degrees. The 3 base pieces will be sanded smooth and painted. I also made the flywheel, crank shaft and crank, the eccentric strap and eccentric along with the spacer.


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## RCGUY (Apr 12, 2012)

When I cut the the rounded end on the eccentric strap, I cut it by lowering the end mill by .003" at a time. Is this the way it should be done or do you lower the end mill all the way down and cut it in one shot?

Ed


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## Troutsqueezer (Apr 13, 2012)

I would have grabbed my trusty file and used a little bit of elbow grease to round the end. I think the way you went about it is just fine. Taking small bites lowers the chances of the tool grabbing the work piece. Better safe than sorry.


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## b.lindsey (Apr 13, 2012)

Great to see the progress you have made over the last couple of months. Looks like it's all going together nicely and will make a fine looking engine!!

Bill


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## rleete (Apr 13, 2012)

Nice work on the tapered base.


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## mklotz (Apr 13, 2012)

I use the same technique for rounding over. Unless the part is very thick, I engage the full thickness of the part with the endmill. I found it mandatory to provide some sort of stop mechanism to limit the movement of the part when it's (inevitably) grabbed by the tool. You can see pictures and a description of my crude fixture at:

http://www.schsm.com/html/marv_klotz_38.html


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## RCGUY (Apr 13, 2012)

Marv,

Thanks for posting the picture of your fixture. It looks like a safer way to round over the ends of links. Is the rotary file a Dremel tool?

Ed


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## mklotz (Apr 13, 2012)

RCGUY  said:
			
		

> Is the rotary file a Dremel tool?



No, it has a 1/4" shank. Such tools are sold by all the usual suspects.


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## Blogwitch (Apr 13, 2012)

Ed,

This is what I did with my mine engine. Just a little different from the plans.

The first page has a few piccies missing because at one time I lost all my pictures on Photobucket, but the rest of them are OK. I still have the pics on my computer, but no way of getting them into that original post.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=389.0


Don't be afraid of changing things, Elmer's engines are perfect for doing such things. Even a bit of rounding over, drilling a few lightening holes or maybe some column fluting can make your engine totally unique.


John


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## RCGUY (Apr 13, 2012)

John,

I have looked at your build of Elmer's # 29 and I must say it is a beautiful version of his engine. Since this is my very first build I decided at the start to follow the plans to the letter. I have worked with wood for many years. This has been a real challenge and learning curve for me working with metal. Plus I am still in the process of buying the tools I need to complete the build. I had to make 3 flywheels to get one that ran true. On the plus side I am ending up with a nice box of scrap metal for future projects.

Ed


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## Blogwitch (Apr 13, 2012)

Don't worry Ed, this isn't a competition.

Just do what you think needs doing, and more than anything else, enjoy it.
Use other peoples posts to help you solve those little problems you WILL come across, but there is no need to follow them religiously, there is always more than one way to solve a problem.

We all had to start somewhere, and don't worry about making scrap. I still do, but not as much as I used to, it does get better over time.

BTW, even though I can do metal murdering fairly well, I bet you could knock spots off my woodworking, so we all have something to teach each other.


John


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## RCGUY (Apr 15, 2012)

I made the small link for the rocker shaft (9/16" long) the first try was a failure, I tried making it with too small of a piece of brass. The second try I used a larger piece of brass with success.







To cut the tapered profile on the link, I used the drill bit to hold the piece down on the vice and set the test indicator over it to 0.






Then I moved the test indicator over the smaller hole (using the drill bit to center the indicator) and raised it .015, There should be .030 between the two ends.






Her is the final results, ready to be silver soldered to the shaft.


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## rhitee93 (Apr 16, 2012)

That drill bit trick is clever. I'll have to remember that one 

Thanks you for doing this log. You introduced me to the #29 which is now a must-build for me. I really wanted to do an IC engine next, but I think I may wait until I do this one.

I am impressed with the finish you got using the table saw. I have heard about people cutting aluminum with a table saw for years, but have never tried it. The thought scares the heck out of me!


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## RCGUY (Apr 16, 2012)

Brian,

This was the first time I cut metal on the table saw, I felt uneasy doing it but it worked out OK. The finish is not as good as the milling machine but the parts will be sanded and painted. I would recommend making a jig to clamp the piece you are cutting.

Do a search on this site for Elmer's #29, there are several good builds to look at. Bogstandard and Metal Butcher come to mind, I am sure there are more but can't recall the names.

Ed


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## ausdier (Apr 19, 2012)

Just a quick model of the engine with a few little personal touches.
Hope you don't mind the post here on your thread.


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## b.lindsey (Apr 19, 2012)

Ed, that came out very well....still following along on this one and I must say the picture quality is superb too!!! 

Bill


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## RCGUY (Apr 19, 2012)

ausdier,

I don't mind you posting the pictures, I have been searching and saving pictures of the #29 engine for reference. The pictures look like digital pictures.

Bill,

Thanks for your comment. It will be a while before I get back to the build, I messed up my back and it looks like I will be taking it easy for a few weeks.

Ed


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## b.lindsey (Apr 19, 2012)

Ed,
Sorry to hear about the back...hope you will be back in the saddle soon. Maybe in the meantime you can sit back and relax and just keep up with HMEM 

Bill


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## ausdier (Apr 19, 2012)

Thanks Ed.
Also sorry to hear about your back.
If you want any closeup pictures of any part of the engine or indervidual parts or anything like that it is all too easy.
This is modeled in Inventor so even if you want to make your own changes and wonder what they might look like, just let me know and I can model them and then send them to you.


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## rhitee93 (Apr 19, 2012)

I hope the back gets better soon Ed. I'll be following along when you get back to it. I have fallen in love with this engine, and will probably build my own next so I am quite interested in your build.


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## RCGUY (Apr 20, 2012)

ausdier,

Thank you for the offer, but I want to follow the plans to see if I can build this engine.

Brian,

I should have started with a small simple project since I have never done this type of work before. But when I was looking for a project I ran across the #29 and I had to build it. The only thing I don't like about this engine is that some of the links are held on with a piece of thin copper wire. I would like to find an alternative to that.

Ed


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## Sshire (Apr 20, 2012)

Elmer used the wire technique a lot. I used .025 bendable stainless steel wire from McMaster on my Grasshopper. It has worked just fine. 
Best
Stan


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## RCGUY (May 18, 2012)

Today I made 2 small links, nothing exciting for you guys but new to me.
I cut some stock from a sheet of 1/16 brass.
Then milled it to 1/8" wide.


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## RCGUY (May 18, 2012)

I kept the two links together and drilled the 1/16" holes.


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## RCGUY (May 18, 2012)

I rounded the ends one link at a time.


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## b.lindsey (May 18, 2012)

Nice to see you back at it Ed...hope the back is better now!!

Bill


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## RCGUY (May 18, 2012)

End result, 2 tiny links and a lot more parts to make.
Thanks Bill, yes my back is starting to get better.


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## Blogwitch (May 19, 2012)

Ed,



> nothing exciting for you guys but new to me.



That is the learning curve, and hopefully by the time you have finished this engine, you will be further up the slope.

The more time you spend learning on the way up, the better you will be when you reach the top. 

Everything else is then downhill and easier.

Coming along very well indeed.


John


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## RCGUY (May 27, 2012)

The rocker arms are completed. I started with a 3" piece that was milled to the correct size. All the holes were drilled and the ends were finished with a 2-56 tap. The last time I rounded the ends of some links I felt my finger was too close to the end mill. This time I used a pencil with a hard eraser to hold down on the metal, it felt safer and worked OK. This picture shows the outside ends rounded then the piece was moved to round the inside.







Starting to look like a rocker arm.








I tapered the arms next.








Next I rounded the small end of the rocker arms. I cut a little more than half way through. Then I part it off and file it down.








The completed rocker arms. They still need some sanding and polishing.


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## RCGUY (Jun 13, 2012)

After seeing how (*arnoldb*) made the steam cylinder on his Elmer's #32 build I decided to attempt to make my steam cylinder using his setup. I am beginning to feel comfortable with my milling machine. The first time I used the bolt circle program I spot drilled, drilled, then taped a single hole, then repeated for the next hole. Lots of time and tool changes. This time I spot drilled all 6 holes at one time, went back and drilled the 6 holes then went back and taped all 6 holes. Then flipped the cylinder over against the stop and repeated the to drill and tap the other side.











Next I used multiple drills to drill up to 31/64" then reamed it out with a 1/2" reamer.






This next step I am using my new Albrecht sensitive pin drill chuck. Last week a retired machinist (tool maker) was having a garage sale and I picked up the brand new never used Albrecht drill chuck, a pair of SPI 1-2-3- blocks, a matched set of Vee-blocks and a pair of Brown & sharp tool makers parallel clamps. It was my lucky day.

I forgot to take a picture of drilling the 16 1/2 degree hole, but I used the same procedure that arnoldb used. He scribed a line 16 1/2 degrees and lined it up with the side of the vice.






I made a mandrel to mount the cylinder then rounded one end to 15/16", then I loosened the screw removed cylinder and installed it back on the mandrel and turned the other end.






We are going on a 2 week vacation this weekend to Nevada, Idaho, Oregon, Washington and back to California. I will finish the cylinder when I return.

Ed


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## arnoldb (Jun 14, 2012)

You're doing very well indeed Ed Thm:

Enjoy your vacation 

Kind regards, Arnold


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## RCGUY (Jul 4, 2012)

I finished milling the body of the cylinder. The last step is to round the back of the cylinder. I just purchased a 4" round table to do that job but I will have to wait a week for a #2 MT insert to mount my chuck on the table.

What size end mill would work the best for rounding the back side? I used a 1/2" to mill down the sides.

Ed


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## Ogaryd (Jul 4, 2012)

Hi Ed,

   Your doing a beautiful job, keep up the good work.   :bow:

                               Gary


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## arnoldb (Jul 5, 2012)

The cylinder looks great so far Ed Thm:

The 1/2" end mill should work just fine for rounding over - just do it with light cuts.

Kind regards, Arnold


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## mzetati (Jul 5, 2012)

> I finished milling the body of the cylinder. The last step is to round the back of the cylinder. I just purchased a 4" round table to do that job but I will have to wait a week for a #2 MT insert to mount my chuck on the table.



Ed,

You could make a MT2 mandrel to mount the cylinder on the table. A plate with a boss would do, too.











Marcello


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## b.lindsey (Jul 5, 2012)

Ed, hope you had a nice vacation!! Glad to see you back working on the #29 again too 

Bill


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## RCGUY (Jul 6, 2012)

Thanks for the kind words and support. I should have more progress in a week or so.

Ed


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## RCGUY (Jul 11, 2012)

UPS delivered my new rotary table and a MT2 arbor with a 1/2"-20 TPI end to mount my 4 jaw chuck. I mounted the cylinder and started cutting with a 1/2" 4 flute end mill. I finally ended up using a 1/4" 2 flute. The cut was not very smooth, I think it was my aluminum arbor causing the problem. Next time I will use an arbor like Marcello suggested in a previous post. I was able to use some 400 and 600 grit W/D sand paper to smooth the rounded back. 

Ed






 I also did some buffing on the cylinder using Black, Red and White buffing compound.


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## RCGUY (Jul 21, 2012)

I milled down a piece of brass to 15/16 X 15/16 and spotted the 6 holes then went back and drilled out the 6 mounting holes with a #43 drill. I originally planned on getting the cross-head guide, lower and upper head out of this piece of brass. So I drilled the 6 mounting holes deep enough for all 3 pieces. Well I messed up and had the bolt circle off center. So I flipped it over to the other side and was able to get the cross-head guide and lower head only.

Should I use a gasket between the heads and cylinder or is lapping OK?

Ed






First I made the Cross-Head Guide






After cutting the Guide off I faced the brass and made the lower head.






While I had the lower head on the lathe I used some 800 grit lapping compound to hold the cylinder to it and seat it.


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## Shopguy (Jul 21, 2012)

Looking good.
You've really got the polishing down pat.
regards
Ernie J


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## Swift752 (Aug 31, 2012)

She sure is pretty!  Where do I get the plans?  Thanks.  Swift752


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## RCGUY (Aug 31, 2012)

I made the piston out of aluminum which I understand is a bad choice.  But this engine will only run on air and spend most of it's life on  display. My choice for the piston rod is 3/32 drill rod that was  threaded with a 3-48 die. I lapped the piston to the cylinder with  clover silicon carbide (800 grit) compound. The piston drops into the  cylinder nice and smooth. When I cover the intake and exhaust ports the  piston drops down the cylinder slowly all the way to the bottom.

Ed


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## RCGUY (Aug 31, 2012)

swift752,

Here are the plans for Elmer's # 29 it is a PDF file.

http://www.john-tom.com/ElmersEngines/29_mineEngine.pdf

Ed


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## RCGUY (Sep 4, 2012)

UPPER CYLINDER HEAD

I started out with a block of brass that is milled to 15/16 square. Then drilled the bolt circle with a #43 drill.

I then centered the block in the 4 jaw chuck.

When I cut the profile of the upper side I was careful to size the upper boss to 5/16th.

Next I installed the head in the 3 jaw chuck and cut the profile on the under side.

Next I used a piece of scrap aluminum to hold the upper head, I drilled a hole with a 5/16 end mill. With the upper head snug in the 5/16 hole I know the part will be centered to drill the hole for the piston rod.

Next I installed the back stop and removed the aluminum jig. I removed the head and installed it on the under side of the aluminum. After putting it back into position I drilled the larger hole and tapped it for 3/16-40.

Looking back I should have centered the 5/16 hole in the aluminum from front to back. I had a small problem installing the parallel bar on the back when I installed the head on the bottom side.

Ed


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## RCGUY (Sep 7, 2012)

The packing nut for the cylinder has caused me more problems the any other piece so far. When I drilled the hole it was always off center a little. I finally mounted it in the 4 jaw chuck and centered it, cut it down and threaded it. Then moved it to the mill and used a 3/32 2F end mill then followed it with a #41 drill. 

*What is the best material to use for packing around the piston rod?*

Ed


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## Inky Engines (Sep 7, 2012)

Ed

I've used a 1/16" graphite yarn for packing on Elmer's Grasshopper, Mill and Factory engines, but its fiddly getting it under the nut, and imho it achieves little or nothing.  On this scale any advantage gained in terms of air containment is lost in extra friction.  

I'm really enjoying your build log.

Kind regards

Geoff at Inky Engines


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## rleete (Sep 7, 2012)

Cut off about 2 inches of teflon thread tape.  Using your fingers, roll it up into a string.  Wrap that around the shaft, and cut off the extra.


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## RCGUY (Sep 8, 2012)

Thanks for the reply and advice.

I visited the local hardware store and found the graphite yarn and some solid teflon rope. Both seemed rather large, so I used 2 strips of teflon tape then twisted it to form a rope. This option seems to work, time will tell.

Ed


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## RCGUY (Nov 2, 2012)

Found some time to work on the engine. I milled the Crosshead Guides and made some filing buttons. The guides still need to be cleaned up some. It felt good to get back in the shop and work on the engine.

Ed


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## rleete (Nov 4, 2012)

Very nice work.


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## 110samec (Nov 7, 2012)

Why is aluminium a bad choice for pistons? I always thought it was OK to use


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## Brian Rupnow (Nov 7, 2012)

110samec said:


> Why is aluminium a bad choice for pistons? I always thought it was OK to use


Aluminum is fine for pistons if you are only running the engine on air. However, aluminum expands at a much higher rate than steel or cast iron when heated, so if you plan on using the engine with steam, there is a risk of the piston "growing" from thermal expansion and sizing in the bore.-----Brian


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## RCGUY (Nov 20, 2012)

I started the steam chest. After it was completed I found the 1/16 hole I drilled went way off center at the bottom. So I decided to try and save it.

1. I milled the bottom boss off. Then I used a 1/8 2F mill to drill out the 1/16 off center hole.
2. I silver soldered a 1/8 brass rod in the hole then milled it flush.
3. I used a 1/16 2F mill to drill the new centered hole.
4. I turned a new boss with a short 1/16 extension on it to fit in the new hole then I silver soldered it to the steam chest.
5. I then used a 1/16 drill bit to drill down into the bottom boss to the correct depth.

Ed


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## dreeves (Nov 20, 2012)

We Have all been there. Nice save on the part.

Dave


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## RCGUY (Nov 21, 2012)

Dave,

If your still watching. What would be the best way to drill the 1/16 hole so it would not drift off center? 

Ed


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## Tin Falcon (Nov 21, 2012)

My 29 is still a work in progress but when I drilled that part I did it in the lathe and drilled before i did the cutout. You may want to read the instructions for an earlier engine that gives Elmer,s suggestion for making that part or possibly the appendix. he gave lots of detail but did not repeat all the details for every build . he assumed people would start at the beginning of the book. 
Tin


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## dreeves (Nov 21, 2012)

Ed. I do like the others do peck.  I built both the Scoty and the standby with 1/16 holes an inch or more deep with no problems. Proper motor speed with lots of tap magic for aluminum is how I did mine.  


Dave


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## RCGUY (Nov 22, 2012)

Thanks for the replies.

Ed


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## RCGUY (Dec 5, 2012)

To make the valve I milled some brass stock to the correct height and width but an 1.250" long in case I made a mistake. Well I made a mistake when I cut the recess on the bottom (and I even measured twice). So I flipped it to the other end to make a new one.

Ed


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## Brian Rupnow (Dec 5, 2012)

Gotta love a guy that uses layout dye the same way I do. Everything I build gets painted red or blue at some stage of my progress.!!!----Brian


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## RCGUY (Jul 13, 2013)

I finally finished building the steam engine. I made the crosshead guide and the connecting rod assembly. I have failed to take pictures of the parts I need to complete the build. But here is the completed engine. I found it to be quite easy to time the engine. The only deviation I made to the plans was to use nuts on the valve crossbar and rocker arms instead of wire to retain the links. I used 1-72 stainless steel nuts and drilled them out to 1/16 and slipped them on the 1/16 shaft and secured them with a dab of super glue. To remove them I just need to touch it with a soldering iron. The steam engine will cycle very slow. Not sure what the PSI is. I will get a small pressure regulator and take another video after I paint and polish it.

Here is a short video of it running.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N64ZWbf_0ks&feature=youtu.be

Ed


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## Troutsqueezer (Jul 16, 2013)

Nice work Ed. The brass and aluminum look fantastic together.

Dennis


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## RCGUY (Jul 16, 2013)

Dennis,

Thanks for the kind words. Can you point me to a reputable supplier that has the small air regulators that I see on this web site. I need one that will adjust down to 5 pounds or less.

Thanks,
Ed


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## Philjoe5 (Jul 16, 2013)

Ed,

Nice finish work and a nice runner, congratulations

Cheers,
Phil


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## RCGUY (Jul 19, 2013)

Hi Phil,

Your build of Elmer's #29 was an inspiration for me. I looked at your blog and found out you built 3 of Elmer's #29. Wow that is impressive.

Ed


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## Smithers (Jul 19, 2013)

Hi Ed, beautiful workmanship and excellent pics, well done.

Andrew


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## thayer (Jul 19, 2013)

Ed, that is a wonderful job, well done!  I have not done anything on my #33 lately, as I have too many other commitments right now.  I am keeping the parts visible in the shop so that it doesn't get forgotten though. Seeing your #29 is definitely inspiring. In fact when I started my #33 I made a second cylinder blank for a #29.

Thayer


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## RCGUY (Jul 20, 2013)

To Everybody,

Thanks for the nice comments and help.

Thayer,

I really enjoyed making Elmer's #29. I had no clue how a steam engine worked when I started. I was able to complete this engine with the help from the people on this forum and viewing all the set up pictures on how to machine the parts. A picture really is worth a thousand words. If I find the time I would like to build Elmer's #33 also.

Ed


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## RCGUY (Jul 20, 2013)

Just picked up a pressure gauge and did another test run. It runs steady on 4 pounds of air.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VSyZ5wgbfs&feature=youtu.be

Ed


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## vascon2196 (Jul 27, 2013)

Great looking #29....keep on building those Elmer's engines!


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## Inky Engines (Jul 28, 2013)

Ed

Great result - as Chris says "keep on building those Elmer's engines!"

#33 Mill Engine is an excellent choice, but have a look at #41 Factory Engine - its almost as easy to build them both together!

Kind regards

Geoff at Inky Engines


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## RCGUY (Jul 28, 2013)

Thanks again for the kind words. I compared the #33 to #41 and I think I will do Elmer's #41. It has a little more detail.

I also want to make a 2 cylinder V wobbler with reverse for a RC model boat. I have not found any plans yet.

Ed


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## Hat56 (Sep 19, 2013)

Speaking of  Elmers engines I saw a two cylinder wobbler geared to a   single shaft presented by Tubalcain on youtube and he suggested it was a   number 115? made by Elmer. I would like to get the plans for this if   anyone can help.

I have searched the John Tom to no avail.
	

	
	
		
		

		
			




       Cheers  Hat


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## Sshire (Sep 19, 2013)

Beautifully done! The engine looks great. Keep going.


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