# Sieg SX2.7 mill



## kiwi2 (Oct 15, 2015)

Hi,

     I've got a Sieg SX2.7 mill and an SC4 lathe on order which should arrive by the end of November. In the meantime I'm going to install a bench for them to sit on. I was originally going to make it 500mm (20") wide but looking at the specs I'm not sure that is enough.
Can any members out there who have these machines let me know what the dimensions of their bases are and what bench width they would recommend?

Regards,
Alan C.


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## ShopShoe (Oct 16, 2015)

kiwi2,

I know it's not exactly what you wanted, but SIEG's own website includes basic dimensions:

http://www.siegind.com

For your side to side dimensions, be sure to figure your mill placement so that there is adequate room for table travel that still leaves work room.

Can the vendor you purchased from provide any additional information?

Good Luck with your new machines.

--ShopShoe


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## bazmak (Oct 16, 2015)

Hi Kiwi,i have a 500 x 1500bench for the Sc4 and its good.My whole is shed is 1500 wide and its just enough.Your bench could be 1200w if you wish as long as you can get around the ends for access.I have the sx2 mill and fit it into a corner at 45o.If you red some of my posts you can get a better idea from the photos.Please dco a thread when they arrive.Looking forward to it.
If you read  brian rupnows thread on his new mill which is similar i think one rquired mod is to lower the handwheel that adjusts the head,to a posn further down with toothed belt or chain drive.Regards Barry


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## kiwi2 (Oct 17, 2015)

Thanks for the replies.
I had seen the dimensions on the Sieg website but they are overall dimensions which presumably include the handwheels so don't tell me anything about the dimensions of the base. The local Sieg agent doesn't have a showroom and doesn't seem to keep much stock in the warehouse - I'm not very confident of getting any useful information out of them.
Thanks for the reference to Brian's thread Barry. I'll look it up.

Regards,
Alan C.


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## bazmak (Oct 17, 2015)

If you need dims for the lathe please mention specifics and i will send them
regards barry


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## Kerrin Galvin (Oct 18, 2015)

Hi Allan,
 If I may suggest, go to the Grizzly site, they have rewritten the manuals into English with LOTS of extra info. I got an Sx4 last year & had read that they had the manuals available, you just need to know what they call it! They only issue for me being that the manual is 120 volts & I'm 240. There is a lot of useful info, like how to run your mill in etc. good wiring diagrams & exploded drawings for part id. By your forum name are you in NZ? My SX4 has a 15 amp plug which meant changing the wall socket. This was one thing that I didn't find any info on. I guess the SX2 will be a standard 10 amp.

Cheers Kerrin


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## kiwi2 (Oct 18, 2015)

Thanks for the replies.
Hi Kerrin,
                Yes I'm in NZ - Ardmore south of Auckland.
I went to the Grizzly site but they seem to have the Opti Mills rather than the Siegs. 
The British Axminster site is also good for more detailed information and they've got a lot on the SX2 mill but nothing on the SX2.7 which is fairly new from what I can gather.
Hi Barry,
              If you can let me know the distances between the mounting holes I would be grateful. At this stage I'm looking to sell the stand with my old EMCO V10P but I may keep it if the SC4-510 will fit it.

Regards, 
Alan C.


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## Kerrin Galvin (Oct 18, 2015)

Hi Alan,
 I'm in New Plymouth. That's a pity on the Grizzly site. I can't remember were I found out the Grizzly number for my SX, yes they have a range of suppliers by the look. I also checked out the Axminister site. There download instructions were the same as supplied with the mill.....not that good.
Cheers Kerrin


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## bazmak (Oct 19, 2015)

Hi Alan,if you draw a 1000 x 520 horiz rectangle, that is the size of my benchtop
and footprint of the lathe.The fixings are nom 9 dia for M8 bolts in 3 pairs
From the LH end (headstock end) the first pair are at 125mm,then 90 ctres
then 570 ctrs then 215
From the front the the dim is 125 then 110 ctres then 260
The 150 from the from the front is my prefered posn to clear the handwheels
I removed the chipguard as its quite bulky to allow for possible fitting of milling attachment and i have no room  to go round the back of the lathe
If you do and fit the chiptray then you will need min 1000 x 600 top or even better 1200 x 600.Hope this helps any further question please ask regards Barry


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## kiwi2 (Oct 20, 2015)

Thanks Barry. I'm going to install a 600mm wide bench down one side of the shed to take the lathe and mill. It will be about 4 meters long so I should have space to spare.
 Rather than install a Sieg chip tray I thought I might use a kitchen tray on the bench between the feet of the lathe. That should make cleaning up easier as I can just take out the tray and empty it into the bin rather than trying to sweep the chips from under the bed if the tray is fixed.

Regards,
Alan C.


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## bazmak (Oct 20, 2015)

Hi,if you have a long bench then 600mm is ideal.If your going to fit your nowm tray/metal top then i would recommend keeping the bench on a lower dim
and fit nom 40/50mm riser blocks.It difficult getting under the carriage for cleaning.Drill and tap them to suit M8 and extend them slightly to get in fifings to the workbench.I only used 4 fixings as the 2 on the left are under the headstock and difficult to get to.In fact if i was going this route i would
get a piece of say 5mm plate,bolt on the riser blocks,position the lathe
and the put a couple of stitch welds to blocks and plates.If you do this 
then let me know and i will measure heights and recommendations.I am 5ft 8" can also send photos
regards Barry


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## kiwi2 (Oct 21, 2015)

Thanks Barry. I'm 6'2'' so I don't want the bench too low. The stand for my current lathe is 820mm high and I wouldn't mind it being a bit higher so I was intending to make the bench 850mm high. I take your point about getting a bit more clearance for a removable tray under the bed between the feet. I was thinking of a fairly shallow tray, maybe 30mm high. What is the clearance between the bottom of the apron and the bench on your lathe?
I have some hard, dense and stable wood which is 35mm thick, about 175mm across and 300mm long which I could use as block supports. 
Regards,
Alan C.


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## bazmak (Oct 21, 2015)

My floor height to lathe base 835mm and there is only 40mm between the table  and the u/side of the apron.I would suggest you make the bench 820mm high
and sit the lathe on 30mm thick steel riser plates.one for the 4 holes at the hstock 135 x 140mm and one for 2 holes at the tailstock 135 x 100mm.
If you are fitting a steel tray to the benchtop then drill and tap the riser blocks
bolt to the lathe and position on the table then put a couple of stitch welds to r/plts and tray. My lathe is on a 40mm laminated kitchen wtop,i dont use coolant.i just use 4 fixings to timber.My lathe is a touch high and i have a duckboard so cant easily fit riser blocks. Regards barry


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## kiwi2 (Oct 21, 2015)

Thanks Barry. I'll make the bench 820mm high then make a decision about spacers when the lathe is sitting on the bench.
Regards,
Alan C.


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## bazmak (Oct 21, 2015)

Thats the best way,you dont say if you will be using coolant.I think the riser blocks should be metal not wood either steel or alum,but things will clearer when the lathe is in posn.The tray can have a small lip at 45o to the front with a larger lip at the back.45o makes it easier to scoop out the swarfe.Keep posting Barry


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## bazmak (Oct 24, 2015)

Hi Alan,further to this thread and discussions i have fitted riser blocks to the lathe.My lathe sits on 40mm laminated kitchen worktop and i had an offcuso i used it.The lathe bolts to the plts and the plt are woodscrewed to the top
Clearance under the saddle is now 80mm and much improved.I can now remove a couple of woodscrews and move/skew the lathe to give me full access to the changegears,and i can now remove the ta

ilstock.Very happy


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## kiwi2 (Oct 24, 2015)

Hi Barry,

               Looks good. The wood I'm thinking of using for the riser blocks is 36mm thick and really hard and flat. It was scrap from the place I worked where it was used as a baseplate for some circular sawblades situated on a production line. I milled it flat so it is true.
Have you heard of Bob Ackert's supplement to the SC4 Manual? It seems full of useful tips for setting up.

Regards,
Alan C.


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## bazmak (Oct 24, 2015)

Hi, that looks kike a nice old piece of one of the mahogany family ideal for you want.Thanks for the tip on bob ackerts supplement,i have printed it off and will use it for reference.Regards barry


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