# Start on a long term project



## ozzie46 (Feb 19, 2010)

Well I have made a small step on my Loco build. It is the model engineer "Simplex".

 Here are the frames leaning against what will become the cyl stock.







  This build may take quite a while to complete so please bear with me.

 All comments and advice are eagerly sought.

 Quite a bit of hacksaw and file work went into the frames. Another needed skill to practice for my foray into machining. ;D ;D ;D


  The frames are still bolted together as I don't want to separate them til I'm sure I don't need to do more on them. They were cut and drilled as a unit to make sure everything lined up.

   Ron


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## cobra428 (Feb 19, 2010)

Very Nice start Ron,

4-6-4 and what gauge? Looks like it will be pretty big!

Tony


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## tel (Feb 19, 2010)

Yep, you are well on the way Ron.



> This build may take quite a while to complete so please bear with me.



 ;D Mine took 5 years (1985-1990) - count on around 500 hours for the running chassis.

Tony: 0-6-0 in 5" g


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## cobra428 (Feb 19, 2010)

Thanks Tel,
I have the Shay and Climax books.......someday....Shay most likely!!

Tony


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## ozzie46 (Feb 19, 2010)

Thanks Tony, Tel.

 Tel , I might be bending your ear on this one.

 Ron


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## tel (Feb 19, 2010)

The beast in question. Been in drydock for a few years now - needs work.


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## cobra428 (Feb 19, 2010)

Very Nice Tel,
Now I understand the 5 yrs
Break her out of moth balls and lets hear the woo-woo

Tony


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## ozzie46 (Feb 19, 2010)

Looks good Tel. 
Is that a mechanical lubricator on the running board by the cyl?


 Ron


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## Deanofid (Feb 19, 2010)

Good start, Ron. First step is always the hardest, they say.
I expect to be around for a while, (don't we all?). Hope to see this one puffing along one day.

I don't know track gages and such. Not even sure if track is a gage or a guage. How far apart are the rails for this model?

Dean


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## zeeprogrammer (Feb 19, 2010)

I'll be watching! Love locos.


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## ozzie46 (Feb 19, 2010)

Dean, Thanks. I don't know beans about gages either but looking at the drawing for the axle I'm guessing 5" . I just turned 63 in Nov so Lord willing I'll last til its done. :big: :big: 

 I'm in the process of cutting up the tractor weight for the cyls. There are a lot of bumps and knobs that need to be cleaned off too. Sure glad I have 4 x6 metal saw. 

  Zee. I'm glad your here. I learn a lot from your post. We are both newbies but you seem to have a knack for getting right to the crux of a problem and getting the right answers.


 ALL ABOARD!!

  Ron


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## tel (Feb 19, 2010)

> Is that a mechanical lubricator on the running board by the cyl?



It sure is, but not the Martin Evans specified type. It's a design by Jim Ewins where the output is determined by a spacer between two O rings that the plunger works through.


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## ozzie46 (Feb 19, 2010)

Tel Is that a mechanical lubricator on the running board by the cyl?


 Ron




			
				tel  said:
			
		

> It sure is, but not the Martin Evans specified type. It's a design by Jim Ewins where the output is determined by a spacer between two O rings that the plunger works through.




 And that my friends sums up my whole knowledge of Locos. Boy what have I gotten myself into.  :big: :big: :big:

 FUN, thats what. Rof} Rof} Rof}

 Ron


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## zeeprogrammer (Feb 19, 2010)

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> And that my friends sums up my whole knowledge of Locos. Boy what have I gotten myself into.  :big: :big: :big:



Don't take this the wrong way....

That's good news for people like me. It means you're going to be describing things that you otherwise wouldn't.


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## ozzie46 (Feb 20, 2010)

Zee and others: Have look at what Tel steered me to. Its a gold mine on the Simplex.


http://dr-john.org/

     Ron


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## zeeprogrammer (Feb 20, 2010)

Great link! Thanks for that Ron. And thanks to Tel too.


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## Groewrs (Feb 26, 2010)

Glad somebody else is mad enough to work on one of these ;D

I'll be following your build with great interest, Ron. I'm working on a Super Simplex. I've got the frames bolted together and I'm working on axles and axleboxes at the moment.

Keep those pics coming!

Gordon


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## ozzie46 (Feb 26, 2010)

Thanks Gordon, you may be interested in this site. He's building a stretched "Simplex".


http://www.baggo.copperstream.co.uk/me/locos/5inch/Simply Longer/Simplex1.htm


 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Mar 6, 2010)

Heres an what I been up to so far.



























Got the frames together and started on the buffer beams.
I have the angle in for the beams. They are bolted to the frames and are supposed to be riveted to the beams, but I was wondering if it might not be better to tap the beams   and lock tight screws in and file them off flush with the front of the beams. The rivets were supposed to be filed off too.

 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Mar 6, 2010)

A friend of mine gave me some ductile cast iron for the cyls. That stuff is nice.

 It machines in little 6s and 9s. like steel.






 He gave me 2 of the round bars 5in by 6.250. Sure is heavy. He said it is "continuous cast".

 I got 2 cyls out of one piece so I have plenty left for something else. 5in face plate maybe?

 The cyls are supposed to be 3x 2.750x2.375, these are not to finish size yet.

 I am going to try to do like "gbritnell" does and profile them and make them look like a casting. Wish me luck. 


 Ron


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 6, 2010)

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Wish me luck.



I wish you the best of luck.

I am so excited to watch this thread.


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## arnoldb (Mar 7, 2010)

Looking good Ron Thm:

And good luck !

As to the rivets vs bolts to hold on the beams, from what I can see either way would work well. Tapping the beams might involve more work though; you'd have to drill tap-size holes through both the beams and the angles, then when done, clearance holes for the bolts in the angles, and then tap the beams... Rivets would be one set of holes, some hammering & filing, - done.

Regards, Arnold


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## Groewrs (Mar 7, 2010)

It's all looking quite familiar, Ron!

I riveted my buffer beams. I'd drilled all of the holes in both the angles and the beams using the DRO in the mill, so the holes lines up (for once ;D). You still need about ten hands to do the riveting though... even using clamps. From memory, it took me about two mornings of noise to get both beams rivetted on.

Thanks also for the link to Baggo's site. I had looked on there about a year ago, but he's done a fair bit since then.

Someday I'll post some pics of my chassis... I'm working on axles and axleboxes at the moment.

Keep up the good work Ron!


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## ozzie46 (Mar 8, 2010)

Thanks Zee,Arnold ,Gordon.

 I'll ponder the the rivet thing some more.

  Ron


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## BAH101 (Mar 8, 2010)

Have you ever tried Cleco's? You can see them here: https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=3069
I use them all the time riveting on aircraft. That way 2 hands actually are enough (most of the time)


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## NickG (Mar 9, 2010)

Nice work Ron, :bow:

We have a few examples of Simplex in our club - very nice looking and powerful engine, also pretty heavy to lift once it's finished.

Will be watching this one.

Nick


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## ozzie46 (Apr 11, 2010)

I haven't posted on this for a while so thought I would get you up to date.

      Made the buffers for the buffer beams. 

     Started by making the bumper part of the buffers 




























     I was stuck on how to form the convex on the face of the buffer until Tel's friend DrJ poited me to this site.

http://www.baggo.copperstream.co.uk/me/locos/25inch/helen longish/helen7.htm


    Go about half way down the page to where he talks about the buffers. Worked really well.


    Check out the rest of the site too. Tons of info on Locos. Zee you will love it.














      I had to put packing in front of the headstock to get the right length of rod for the radius I needed
    Thats the reason for the wood clamp in the pic. It's clamping the packing to keep it in place. This is
    result.








     Ron


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## ozzie46 (Apr 11, 2010)

Forgot to take pics of making the receiver part of the buffer. I made it in 2 pieces as I didn't have any square stock big enough to turn from. I think the 2 piece bit worked better anyway.







     Checking fit of buffer into reciever.








      Here is an assembly view








     I mounted them on the buffer beams and tightened up the 3/8 nut on the buffer to hold everything in place and drilled the 4 holes in each square plate and buffer beams. Threaded the beams for 4-40 for 4-40 bolts. I am using round head machine screws to hold things now but I have scale hex head 4-40 bolts for final assembly. 










    On the frame temporarily. 







       Till next time.

   Ron


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## Deanofid (Apr 11, 2010)

Those buffers look very nice, Ron. Good turning work!

Dean


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## ozzie46 (Apr 11, 2010)

Thanks Dean, that means a lot. Still have a long way to go. Can't even consider myself an apprentice yet. 

 Ron


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## zeeprogrammer (Apr 12, 2010)

Thanks for the link Ron. You were right...it's fantastic. I only looked at a few pages so far but it's a nicely detailed build.

I like the buffers. As simple as it sounds, they have a special place in my heart...probably because of several memories I have as a kid.


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## ozzie46 (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi all, I got a little more done on my loco build.


  Made the axles and axle boxes. The axle boxes are cast iron and the axles are made from a long bolt made by Caterpillar Machinery. Don't know what it was for but it sure turned nice on the lathe with a very nice finish.


 I squared up stock for the axle boxes long enough to make 2 aout of 1 piece so that the hole would be concentric in both the left and right boxes. I drilled to 11/16 then bored to size.







  I then marked out the boxes and cut in half.







  Put them in the mill and trued up the saw cut ends and brought to size. Then marked out for and milled the grooves to slide on the horn plates.








  Then a lot of filing to get the boxes to fit well.












 Now a question, I know that the distance between the axles have to be really close as far as the distance between ,say, the leading axle and the drive axle. How big a variance is to much between,lets say, the distance from the leading axle to the drive axle on the right side as compared to the left side?
 I hope I'm not confusing you with my description. 


  Thanks for looking in.

  Ron


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## Groewrs (Jul 29, 2010)

Looking good there, Ron! Always nice to see somebody else's progress.

As to your question on distances between axles. On mine the distances between Crankpin centres are up to 0.5mm different left to right. Don't know if this will stop it running... I'm making the rods to fit, so will find out when I get the rods finished!

Will post some more pictures tonight, hopefully.

Gordo


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## ozzie46 (Jul 29, 2010)

Thanks Gordo. Someone on another site told me as long as you make the rods to fit in wasn't a big problem. 

 I was beginning to wonder if maybe people just over looked the question after looking at the pics.

  Ron


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## doubletop (Aug 19, 2010)

Ron

Just skimming through my Rob Roy thread and realized I hadn't done you the courtesy of taking a look at your thread. What's this "long term project"? You seem to be going well and making a good job of this. You must be felling good.

I don't know if I'm off the mark with the answer to your question but I recall a story from my dad. He used to go the local model engineering night school to get tips etc. In discussion the guys on axle length and clearance he asked how many thou he should allow between the axles and the axle boxes. The response was along the lines "Thou? You'll need a bit more than thou, how the F*3K do you expect it to go round corners?" He went home to make 3 more longer axles.

Good luck on the build.

Pete


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## ozzie46 (Aug 19, 2010)

Hi Pete, thanks for looking in. I was asking about the distance between the leading axle and the driving axle and the trailing axle., nogt the sideways play of the axles. But your info is good to know about the side play too. I didn't even think about that. I just made em to plan. 

  Again thanks for looking in and I'm enjoying you "Rob Roy" thread also.



  Ron


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## 1hand (Oct 25, 2010)

Ron;

Any new updates on your loco? 

Matt


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## ozzie46 (Oct 25, 2010)

Hi Matt. Been reading your posts about the A3.


 No. Nothing to post yet. I' m milling out the wheels and taking some pics so when I'm done I can post them. Although I'm retired I have part time job driving a Headstart school bus 3 times a day and that gets in the way too. 

  After the milling there will be a lot of file work to do on the wheels too.

  Ron


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## 1hand (Oct 25, 2010)

Sounds good. Will be waiting to see the progress. I noticed that your using steel instead of brass for your running gear. I going to do the same thing with the A3. 

Matt


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## ozzie46 (Nov 21, 2010)

Been awhile since I posted and have done quite bit on the wheels.

 I bought a cheapie 3 in rotary table at Horrible Fright and used it to mount the wheel blanks for milling. I also drew up full size wheels in Turbocad and glued them to the wheel blanks and basically milled to the lines. 







  I used a 3/16 Ball end mill to mill around the inside of the rim and the outside of the axle boss. Then I switched to regular end mill and milled out the spokes and such. Did this times 6.












  I didn't fancy trying to round over all the spokes by filing so after a few days of pondering I settled on trying a HSS dremel round over router bit and it workrd but the finish was not very good. It doesn't take much filing to make them presentable though.












  I then broke out my new riffer files and went work on the wheels. I have 2 done as far as the profiling goes to try to make them look like cast wheels. 4 more to go.







 I've never seen cast wheels before other than pics on the computer so I hope they look sort of right.


 Still along way to go before these wheels are done but the really hard part is done. I hope!!

 As always comments,tips are welcome. 


 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Nov 21, 2010)

I had to take break from all the milling of the wheels and made the eccentric fpr the feed pump.

 I had some unkown stainless steel I got from the scrap yard that I had been afraid to use after I had read about the work hardening properties of stainless. Cut off a chunk with the band saw and it seemed to cut really well so stuck it in the lathe and went at it. Man it cut really well. I totally surprised.







  These will be the steel tires for the aluminum wheels. They are cut from hydraulic cyl rams donated by a good friend that runs a Hydraulic repair business. Still need enough material to make 2 more.






  I would like to have it setting on its wheels by January. Maybe it will happen maybe it won't..

  Oh yeah, I started to get some sores on the palm of my hand from using the riffer files so much as they are double ended. I asked my wife if she could make me a leather palm protector. Oops no leather, so she found an old mitt style pot holder and cut the finger area off up past the second knuckle of the fingers and cut the thumb out too. I used the cut off finger area as more padding in the palm of my hand. I just stuff it inside the pot holder into my palm. It works great.

 Ron


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## hobby (Nov 21, 2010)

I like the profiling work you did on those wheel blanks using a rotary table.
I also like the idea of pasting patterns on to your workpiece to work too.

It makes me want to start getting back to using my turbocad for making patterns again, 
after seeing the nice details you achieved  with those loco wheels.

The more I look at that post of the pattern on the wheel blank, the more I'm thinking of possibiities of fine details that can be machined into workpieces.

Those wheels are going to look superb, when its all put together. 

Keep up the great work....


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## ozzie46 (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks for checking in Hobby. Your comments mean are very much appreciated.

 Ron


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## arnoldb (Nov 22, 2010)

Hi Ron - That is a magnificent effort :bow: - Your perseverance and effort on making these wheels is truly inspiring :bow:

I remember you asking about a press fit a while ago; if it is for these wheels and their rims, then I'd definitely suggest erring on the side of a "lighter" press fit, as the steel tires could easily crunch/crack your aluminium wheels, and I'd hate to see that happen to you after this work 

Looking forward to the rest!

Kind regards, Arnold


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## ozzie46 (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks Arnold, I will diffidently heed your advise on the shrink fit. I'm kind of anxious to see the finished product myself, but I don't want to rush things and make a masive boo boo. :fan: :fan: 

  Ron


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## joe d (Nov 22, 2010)

Ron

Those wheels are looking really good. Another one filed away for the day I get to a locomotive...

Cheers, Joe


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## ozzie46 (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks Joe, 3 1/2 done, 3 1/2 to go. 

  Ron


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## ozzie46 (Dec 11, 2010)

I've done some more on the wheels.
 I got the steel tires heat shrunk onto the wheels. I made an arbor to mount the wheels on to turn them to size. 






 It is a very close fit on the axle bores and will stay in the 3 jaw until all work remaining work on the wheels is done. If I need the lathe I will just pull the 3 jaw off and mount the 4 jaw.

 The wheels were turned to .002 more than the inside dia of the steel tires.






 I stuck the aluminum wheels in the freezer and let them get good and cold. I then turned on, are you ready for it,SWMBOs' electric cook stove and laid the steel tires on the heating element. SWMBO was there while I did it and I'm still here to talk about it. :big:

 I let the tires heat up till they got blue then put them on 3/8 plate steel on a little stool and took the wheels out of the freezer and they fell into the steel tires with no effort. 

 This is what they looked like after cooling down.






 I had to see what they looked like on the frame.






  Now I have to grind up a HSS cutting tool to the 3/32 radius called for on the tire tread near the flange. I need to read up on how to turn the treads as well as it seems there are some angles involved.

 Thats it for now I guess. Oh I laid out the dimensions on the steam cyls too. Will be working on them soon but I want to make a holding plate to fit my cross slide on the lathe so I can line bore them on the lathe.

  Till then I wish everyone a very Merry Christmas and Happy and Joyous New Year.

 Ron


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## 1hand (Dec 11, 2010)

Real nice! Thm:

Matt


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## ozzie46 (Dec 27, 2010)

Some observations on turning hyd ram steel following a question on another board. The steel turns well but creates stringer chips a mile long. I have to keep it cleared out or it gets really dangerous. Using HSS I can only take about .020 at the most or it gets so hot it ruins the cutting edge. I'm turning at 150 rpm as that is the slowest my lathe will turn and feeding at the slowest my lead screw will turn. I don't have flood coolant so I brush on, of all things, "crisco" for lube. I tried turning dry and had to resharpen very often but after using the crisco I think I had to sharpen once on the remaining 4 wheels.

 Had a bit of a disaster on my last operation on the wheel treads. (Wouldn't you know it!) I set my compound to cut a 3* taper on the tread and WHAAAT? It didn't look right at all. Got to checking and my protractor scale on my compound is marked off in 2 1/2* increments. So what I thought was 3* was actually 7 1/2* Cut the tire off and today will make another one to replace it.



  Ron


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## ozzie46 (Jan 2, 2011)

Well I finished turning the wheel treads and painted them. 


  I ground up a 3/32 radius tool bit to turn the radius on the tread.







 Heres how it turned out.






 set the wheels on the frames to get a motivational shot. ;D ;D












  I turned some spring pins and single pointed the threads on them and will be installing them and looking for some springs at the hardware store.

  A little off topic, but I gave myself Kozos' Pennys A3 Switcher for Christmas. That book is full of neat ideas on jig, setups and such. 

 Ron


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## zeeprogrammer (Jan 2, 2011)

Wow...I've missed a lot on this thread.
Neat stuff.
The wheels look great and I learned a lot from your postings.
I didn't know about tires. Do people actually end up having to replace them?


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## ozzie46 (Jan 2, 2011)

Zee, Thanks for looking in. 

 I don't know about model Locos having tires. I know that full sized ones did.
The wheel castings I've seen for model Locos are cast iron with no separate tire.

 I used steel tires as my wheels were aluminum and I don't think they would hold up well on track. I could be wrong here. 

 Ron


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## coopertje (Jan 3, 2011)

Hi Ron,
 :bow: :bow: :bow: i truly admire your patience in making the wheels! They came out really great! Very nice to see the loco coming together piece by piece. Keep on the great work and keep the pictures coming!

Regards Jeroen


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## ozzie46 (Jan 3, 2011)

Thanks Jeroen. I admire your work a lot.

  Ron


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## coopertje (Jan 4, 2011)

All I can say is that the grass of the neighbors always looks greener. Until you decide to swap you realise that your own grass was not so bad after all.... ;D 

Regards Jeroen


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## doubletop (Jan 8, 2011)

zeeprogrammer  said:
			
		

> Wow...I've missed a lot on this thread.



Me too I've no idea what happens with the notifications, from time to time I don't get them.

Love those wheels Ron, and gives me an idea for wheels for my driving trolley. Nothing so grand though but I've got some ally for the wheel centres and steel tyres would do the trick.

Pete


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## ozzie46 (Jan 9, 2011)

Thanks Pete. 

  The aluminum was so much easier to machine. If I had used cast iron or steel I would probably be still milling them out.  :big: :big:




  Jeroen, Yes that grass is greener over the fence bit cost me a couple of marriages when I younger and a lot dumber. Thankfully I wised up.

 Ron


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## krv3000 (Jan 9, 2011)

good work ;D


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## ozzie46 (Jan 9, 2011)

Thanks kvr3000

 Ron


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## kvom (Jan 9, 2011)

While aluminum is easier to machine, these small locos need weight on the drivers for traction. So for my build I've been advised to use steel rather than aluminum for anything. The power to weight ratios are high for these scales, so without enough weight the engines can spin the wheels too easily.


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## compspecial (Jan 9, 2011)

Quite right K vom! but I hope Ron doesn't even think of scrapping those lovely wheels for the sake of a few ounces  There's gotta be room for a bit of lead ballast somewhere ;D


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## ozzie46 (Jan 9, 2011)

Thanks for looking in Kirk. The A3 seems to be coming along nicely.

 No I'm not going to scrap them "compspecial". I figured I could add weight else where, hiding out of sight. I build RC aircraft too and while you need to keep the weight as low as possible sometimes you have to add weight for balance. You can get pretty creative as to how you add it to the plane, in the right place, without it being noticed.

 The wheels are the only place I planned on using aluminum on the loco anyway.

  Ron


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## coopertje (Jan 9, 2011)

Hi Ron,

I have heard that before, wisdom comes with age. I am patiently waiting for mine to arrive ;D

Have fun, regards Jeroen


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## ozzie46 (Mar 5, 2011)

Got a little bit more done. 

 Made up the motion plates. Nothing much to show here as its just marking out then using a drill press, band saw and a "Nicholson Hand Mill" aka file work.

 Heres the end result.




















  Had to mill the angle for the mounting brackets to get it 90* 

  I need to start on the cyls but I need to make a milling table for my cross slide first so I can line bore them.

  Ron


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## ozzie46 (Jun 29, 2011)

Its been a while since I updated this thread so here goes.

 I made a plate to go on my cross slide to use it as a boring table to bore out the cyls.







  Made a boring bar out of some rusty bar and put it between centers to do the boring. Used a set screw to adjust the cutting tool and another to lock it in place.









 I used a auto brake wheel cyl hone to hone the cyls. For got to take any pics of that.

 I used the off cuts of the steam cyls to make the end caps (?) for the cyls.






 I cut off as much as I could on my 4 x 6 saw to make it as round as possible be for turning them in the lathe












  For the steam chests I chain drilled around the inside of the blocks for the chests and cut out the center with a hacksaw,then milled the insides. I them made the valves and the vale nuts. The valves are cast iron and the nuts a re bronze. The cyls and the steam chest are sat iron as well as the end caps/ cyl heads.






  The valve rods are stainless steel.

 I did some profiling on the cyls to make them more like castings ala kvom.







 I also took his idea of putiing 2 countersunk cap screws in th steam chest to keep them in place when the top cover is taken off. 

 I'm going to mill a .020 depression in the covers inside of the gasket area and may do the same for the top of the covers. 


  That brings it up to date as of today. I will profile the other cyl tomorrow. 


  The bolts in the steam chests are temporary, proper scale hex head bolts will be put in for the final assembly.

  Ron


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## Maryak (Jun 29, 2011)

Ron,

Nice work. :bow:

Just a thought, but if you machine your boring bar in the area of your tool, you can then use a mic/vernier to set the depth of cut pretty accurately.

Hope this helps

Best Regards
Bob


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## ozzie46 (Jun 29, 2011)

Thanks Bob,I will do that, and thanks for looking in.

  Ron


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## gbravo (Jun 29, 2011)

Very nice proyect Ron.
I dont know if sometime I will have enough patience for make a proyect with this size.
Regards,
German


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## ozzie46 (Jun 29, 2011)

German, with what you have accomplished with your motorcycle motor model, you have more than enough patience plus a whole lot of talent.

 Thanks for looking in.

 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Aug 27, 2011)

Time for another update. I have made the cross heads and profiled the cyls and mounted them. Pics follow.

Set the cross heads up in the mill and machined to lines basically. I used a 1/8 ball end mill here.






Changed to a 3/16 end mill here. 

















I silver solder bronze slippers on them and silver soldered the backs on too.

I riveted in the drop link pins to the front of the cross head. I took a page out of Dr. Johns way of doing things and milled the front plate from solid instead of trying to bend the off set for the pin.







 I turned the piston rod ends of the cross heads in the lathe but for got to take pics.

 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Aug 27, 2011)

Have a look at the Cyls and frame.







 Cyls with the steam chest set on it.






 kvom had an idea about using countersunk screws to hold steam chest on the cyls when the cover bolts are removed. I thought it was such a good idea. I pinched it.






Starting to look like something.
















 Still have some work to do on the guide bars.


 Thank for looking in.

Ron


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## arnoldb (Aug 28, 2011)

> Starting to look like something.



It sure does Ron - Lovely work Thm:

Kind regards, Arnold


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## ozzie46 (Aug 28, 2011)

Thanks for the kind words Arnold. It means a lot.

Ron


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## steamer (Aug 28, 2011)

Nice work Ozzie....sure takes a lot of parts to build a steamer don't it!

Dave


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## ozzie46 (Aug 28, 2011)

Thanks Dave, yes it does. I'll just keep plodding along.  ;D ;D ;D

  Ron


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## metalmad (Aug 28, 2011)

Looking wonderful Ron
keep it up 
Pete


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## ozzie46 (Aug 28, 2011)

Thanks Pete.

  Ron


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## Lesmo (Sep 1, 2011)

Just caught up with your build, It's a sight for sore eyes, very nice work Ron, I will be following it all the way.

Les


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## kvom (Sep 1, 2011)

shaping up well!


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## ozzie46 (Sep 1, 2011)

Thanks Les, Kirk.
 Started to make the Cyl push rods the other day. Sawed out the profile, just needs milling to dimensions now. Will post pics.
 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Sep 5, 2011)

Made the push rods. Started by riveting 2 pieces of stock together. I didn't have any rivets so I used 16 penny finishing nails. They worked like a charm.

 I then marked out the profile and sawed it to rough shape on my 4 x 6 saw.












 I then drilled out the big end an little ends and made mandrels to fit the drilled holes as I drilled them to the size of thOD of the bushings. I drilled and reamed the mandrels .250 and mounted the roughed out blanks on a piece of 1/4 thick angle iron for machining.







Here they are after machining and sanding. Still have to make the bushings.











 Ron


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## Cliff (Sep 5, 2011)

Hey Ron looks real professional. Cliff


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## ozzie46 (Sep 5, 2011)

Thanks Cliff. Hope you've been well.

 Ron


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## kvom (Sep 5, 2011)

nice job on the rods.


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## ozzie46 (Sep 5, 2011)

Thanks Kirk. Your A-3 is coming along well too.

 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Dec 28, 2011)

It has been awhile since I've updated this, so here goes.


 I haven't been doing much but here is what I have. Health issues (mine and daughters)and life has gotten in the way.

 Made the expansion links and have started to make the radius rods.














  Will post more as it's done.

 Ron


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## Smifffy (Dec 28, 2011)

A great thread with some great progress pictures Ozzie.

Smifffy


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## ozzie46 (Dec 28, 2011)

Thanks Smifffy.

 Ron


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## bronson (Dec 29, 2011)

Very interesting thread. It's coming along nicely, i like to see other peoples machine setups it teaches me a lot. Thanks for all the pics. Great work.


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## steamer (Dec 29, 2011)

Hope you and your Daughter are feeling better Ozzie!

Dave


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## ozzie46 (Dec 29, 2011)

Thanks bronson.

  Thanks for your concern Dave. 

  Daughter had a stroke and a mild heart attack. Shes only 52. Left her left side with issues. Shes in rehab and doing remarkably well.Shes a nurse so she's well aware of what she's supposed to do, but they say the worst patients are doctors and nurses.   With her that is true.

  Doc changed my meds and I appear to be doing well so far. I've been fighting Atrial Flutter and A Fib since my "07" heart attack.

 Ron


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## kvom (Dec 29, 2011)

Nice to see an update! Keep on keeping on.


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## DLM (Dec 29, 2011)

Hi Ron

Hope your daughter is doing better and you as well.
Looks like your are coming right along with that project nice work.

I will have to come over and get a closer view.

Don


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## ozzie46 (Dec 29, 2011)

Thanks Kirk.

 Anytime Don. Come on over. Maybe I'll stop your house to see the Holt.

 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Jan 2, 2012)

Well I've completed the radius rods and temporarily mounted them.



















  Now to start on the Combination Levers.


 Ron


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## ozzie46 (Mar 2, 2012)

I got some more done finally. : : : Enjoy.

  Got the lifting arms and the reversing arm done.







  And here's how they look on the loco. Still working on the wieghshaft.






  Ron


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## zeeprogrammer (Mar 2, 2012)

Wow Ron. Great progress and excellent work.
I've been away a while and am very glad to find this one again.
Looking forward to more!
Hope you and daughter and doing better now.


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## ozzie46 (Mar 2, 2012)

Welcome back Zee. Daughter is better but has permanent loss of feeling left foot and must use a walker now. She has made amazing progress from where she was though. From wheel chair to walker. I'm doing better and don't have near the issues she has.


  Thanks for asking and for the kind words in regards to the loco. 

  I am thinking about doing a side build of a single cyl I. C. engine. Maybe the Webster, been at the loco a couple of years now and I think I need a bit of a diversion. Just need a completed engine under my belt I think. Something I can get done relatively quickly. Well relatively quickly for me anyway. :big: :big: :big: :big:

  Ron


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## Smifffy (Mar 3, 2012)

Lovely looking work Ozzie.

Smifffy
 ;D


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## ozzie46 (Mar 4, 2012)

Thanks smiffy.    

 Ron


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## doubletop (Mar 5, 2012)

Ron

I've missed this for some reason, but must have posted at some point as I rediscovered it under "show replies". That may have been a while back, but as you know I've now got an interest in your thread so I'll be paying more than a bit of attention.

Are you planning to do the brakes? I've just checked you frames in post #1 and the mounting holes don't seem to be there. I only ask because mine doesn't have any and having it in steam 3 feet off the ground in the steaming bay and nothing to stop it going anywhere is a bit uncomfortable. OK a couple of G clamps or a rod through the wheel spokes can do the job, but its not a very flash solution. I plan to put the mounting pillars on the frame while I can. The rest of it can then be re-trofitted later quite easily. Drilling and tapping the holes in the frames with the boiler in place would not seem a good idea.

regards

Pete


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## ozzie46 (Mar 5, 2012)

Pete, 

    I did take it apart and drill it for brakes based on the "Super Simplex" design
 but not sure at this time if I will actually fit them. If and when it runs on air will determine my course of action.

  Ron


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## doubletop (Mar 6, 2012)

ozzie46  said:
			
		

> Pete,
> 
> I did take it apart and drill it for brakes based on the "Super Simplex" design
> but not sure at this time if I will actually fit them. If and when it runs on air will determine my course of action.
> ...



Ron

That's my plan as well. I'll also add the hangers as they have back nuts, I think, and then its not a major strip down to finish the brakes at some point later.

So you aren't doing the Super Simplex? Why is that? you have the opportunity to incorporate some of the "improvements". Although I forget the list, a lot of them can be incorporated on a standard Simplex making it a bit of a hybrid. That said, I don't think there's such a thing as 'standard' Simplex. Mine came with a folder that described it as "Extended" I knew it was longer than the drawings but I had no idea why until I stripped it down and found the frames have 3" extensions on the rear for a bigger cab.

BTW did I say you are doing a great job there.

Pete


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## ozzie46 (Mar 6, 2012)

I started the project before I had any information on the Super Simplex or even knew there was one. I am doing the improved feed pump though. Have the material for the pump body but am waiting on some 7/16 stainless for the ram. Bought 5 feet of the stuff. At $15 for the bar from Fastenal (no connection, just a customer)it was a better deal than $12 plus shipping for 1 foot from a supplier out of Florida and its 303 too.


 quote; BTW did I say you are doing a great job there.;quote

 You did now. ;D ;D ;D


  Ron


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## ozzie46 (Mar 27, 2012)

I have all the motion works done except the eccentric rods and when I try to turn the wheels with the radius rod in the center of the expansion link the combination lever seems to be at full travel in the slide valve spindle fork and binds up locking up everything at forward dead center.

  Everything is hooked up except the eccentric rod. Is this normal and if not what do I do about it? If I raise or lower the radius rods then I can get the wheels to turn past forward dead center I've remeasured my holes and everything seems to plan, but I don't know.


  Ron in Colorado


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## doubletop (Mar 30, 2012)

Ron

My Simplex is a pile of bits at the moment scattered around the workshop. Do you have the Martin Evans book? I'll take a look at my copy and see if I can come up with some ideas. 

Another source of information maybe the valve gear models like Dockstader or Allan Wallace. http://avocetconsulting.com.au/modeleng/ I think there is a Simplex simulation in here. Elsewhere, you'll find comments on the valve gear design, in particular a suggestion that Martin Evans didn't understand Walschaerts gear. Don't let that deter you though the hundreds of Simplex built attest to the fact it isn't that bad.

regards

Pete


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## ozzie46 (Mar 30, 2012)

Thanks Pete, I'll give it a try.

 Finally got a reply on the other forum and the guy said he had to file away at the valve spindle fork to get enough travel. He put a chamfer in the bottom of the fork.

 Ron


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## Smifffy (Mar 31, 2012)

Hi Ozzie,

My limited experience on a completely different model, was that there were numerous points at which the valve gear locked up.

Take a very close look at all the pivot points across the limits of travel for the reverser.

Good luck 

Smifffy


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## ozzie46 (Mar 31, 2012)

Thanks smifffy, will do.

  Ron


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## doubletop (Apr 25, 2012)

Ron

I've spent a day on the Simplex, drilling frames for brake hangers. stripping old paint and making a start on replacement driver pins. So I'm back into looking at the drawings and getting my head around the Simplex.

So to answer your question







I should have gone out an dug out the cylinders from under the bench when you first asked.

Pete


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## SBWHART (Apr 25, 2012)

Hi Pete

Just read you're thread through great work ?

I'm now the proud owner of a 90% complete supper Simplex






So its of particluar interest.

Cheers

Stew


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## doubletop (Apr 25, 2012)

Stew

You realise this is Rons thread, but I should start one of my own. Yours is looking quiet tidy, the boiler looks different to the standard round top. So what needs to be done to finish it? 

There's a good set of Simplex threads over on the MECH site.

Pete


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## ozzie46 (Apr 25, 2012)

Thanks for the pics Pete. I've got it sorted out now, filed a champher in the bottom half of the valve spindle forks so the wheels will go round and round now. ;D ;D

 Stew, Thanks for posting a pic of your Super Simplex. The more the merrier. It gives me a good reference as to what a Simplex should look like. Drawings are fine to work to but a picture gives my feeble brain something to really get hold of.

 I bought a new X 3 type mill from Grizzly ( the G7040) and been getting it set up plus redooing th kichten and dining area floors from vinyl tile to Pergo flooring. (Have to pay the piper for the new mill ya know) :big: :big: :big: So haven't done much lately.
  Hope to get back to it soon.

  Ron



  Ron


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## doubletop (Apr 25, 2012)

Ron

Good news on the X3, I thought you were getting on well with what you had. But more equipment has to be good. I went to check the version and a G7040 is a carbide tipped tool. So do you have the G0619 or G0463? Whatever, Youll now have to get that kitchen finished and get DROs fitted. They turn the mill from nice to outstanding.

Pete


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## ozzie46 (Apr 25, 2012)

OOPS!!  Should have been G0704. Am in the middle of home brewing a power feed for the table, or was until the floor thing came up. Will post pics in appropriate forum when I can. 

  Ron


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## ozzie46 (Apr 26, 2012)

( Will post pics in appropriate *forum* when I can. )


  Wrong word ,meant to say appropriate thread.

 Ron


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## SBWHART (Apr 26, 2012)

doubletop  said:
			
		

> Stew
> 
> You realise this is Rons thread, but I should start one of my own. Yours is looking quiet tidy, the boiler looks different to the standard round top. So what needs to be done to finish it?
> 
> ...



Bugger got that wrong:--- sorry Guys :big: :big:

Stew


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## ozzie46 (Apr 26, 2012)

No worries Stew. It's all good.

 Ron


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## Lesmo (Apr 29, 2012)

Hi Ron 

Now up to date with this one, boy I sure take my hat off to you guys who embark on a project of this complexity and duration, you deserve medals for stamina. I will be watching until it goes Chuff Chuff

Best Regards

Les


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## ozzie46 (Apr 29, 2012)

Thanks Les. It may be a long wait though.  ;D ;D ;D

 Ron


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## Lesmo (Apr 30, 2012)

Don't worry Ron, it will be worth the wait, just keep on chipping away at it.

Cheers Les :big:


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## ozzie46 (Jun 21, 2012)

Gentlemen she runs!! On air at least.






  She sounds pretty tight in spots yet but she runs. Yahoo!!! ;D ;D ;D


 Still along way to go before it is finalized but at least I know she runs.


 Click on pic for video.

  Ron


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## 1Kenny (Jun 21, 2012)

Been watching your build Ron. Glad to hear it running.

Kenny


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## ozzie46 (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks Kenny. Glad your watching.

Ron


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## doubletop (Jun 22, 2012)

That's a big day Ron I can see why you are happy. Plenty of oil and leave it running for a few hours and it should loosen up nicely

I'm keeping watching

Pete


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## ozzie46 (Jun 22, 2012)

(Plenty of oil and leave it running for a few hours and it should loosen up nicely)

  Thats the plan Pete. Thanks.

  Ron


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