# Moriya Build



## IronHorse (Dec 27, 2008)

Here is the first part of my build of the Moriya Stirling Engine, originally designed by Dr.James Senft. I changed a few things alone the way, the biggest was not to build it as a fan but to put on a flywheel instead. It will have a built-in propane burner and a modified Oak box when finished. 

Warning! Newbe At Work
Some operations may cause you to scratch your head ;D

I managed to get most of the stock together before starting the project, partially because my in-house stock pile is finally gaining size and taking a proper shopping list to metal guy.







This is standard stuff, boring out the ColdEnd. The problem came about when I tried to cut the fins on the lathe. I did not have enough clearance between the 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 block and the grooving tool to work. I guess there is a lathe mod or trick for this, but I decided to do it on the mill.






Here I am cutting the fins on the mill. I wish now that I could have done this on the lathe, this way involves a lot of passes and rotations, but it turned out OK





More to come.


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## rake60 (Dec 27, 2008)

"Warning! Newbe At Work" ???

Never let on IronHorse. 
It's looking good to me!

Rick


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## kustomkb (Dec 27, 2008)

Great start!

I have these plans also, this will be a good motivator.

Thanks.


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## BobWarfield (Dec 28, 2008)

The Moriya is a nice design. This should make for a great build to watch!

 :bow:

Cheers,

BW


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## IronHorse (Dec 28, 2008)

Here I am boring the offset hole and recess on the 4 jaw. Everything aligns up to this piece so it is good to get all the holes accurate. I added the recess and matching protrusion on the cylinder to help keep things straight.






The hot and power cylinders where bored out to 80% dia and a lip turned on the end to square up the flange plate.










The flange plates are ready to be soldered to the tubes.







This is after silver soldering the flanges on.The mild steel soldered good and the brass was easy.I used my gas welding kit with a small tip to do the work.







After soldering the cylinders I chucked them back in the lathe to face the ends and bore them out to final diameter. I had some trouble boring the steel one with the cheap import bars, but I picked up a "green" wheel and fixed the cutting edges up a bit.


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## Maryak (Dec 29, 2008)

Iron Horse,

Or should I say loco(motive) :





Looks really good to me. 
	

	
	
		
		

		
		
	


	




Best Regards
Bob


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## IronHorse (Dec 29, 2008)

Just a small note: These pictures are not done in real time, I started this engine in late September and will finish it up this week............I wish I could machine that fast :big:

Here I am making the uprights. I thought I would get a bit fancy, and I don't have much luck bending Ali. I Super-Glued the two parts together, milled the sides square then drilled and reamed the hole for the crankshaft.






A bit of milling to do the angles.






Here is the good stuff....lots of fun doing these! CNC would be so much easier!






This is the scary stuff. I have no experience with a rotary table, but with lots of checks, it came out OK.






Almost done, after these pictures I thinned down the top boss and angled the center support.


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## Bernd (Dec 29, 2008)

Hey that scary stuff looks good. Nice manual work on that.

Bernd


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## lugnut (Dec 29, 2008)

> Warning! Newbe At Work
> Some operations may cause you to scratch your head


You don't appear as a newbe. I've already learned a couple of tricks by watching you work. I really like what you did with the supports. Keep those photos coming!
Mel


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## IronHorse (Jan 1, 2009)

Now I will make the crankshaft. 

I only have success at this if I solder the main webs together before drilling. On the CRS I used lead free soft solder to hold them together. I noticed that the solder does not flow very good on CRS. But I found a way that works good. First clean and flux both parts, heat, apply solder. At this point a blob will form on the surface, dip a toothpick in flux and "push" the molten blob around the CRS. The surface will now be coated "tinned" with solder. Heat both pieces again and the solder will join the two parts.






All the parts are cut and drilled, ready for soldering. I countersunk the holes slightly so the solder will make a strong joint. Drill Rod was used for the shafts.





I used Silver Solder (Hard) to join all the parts.





I put it back in the lathe to do a little cleanup.





Here is the finished part, runs true and straight.





Happy New Year


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## NickG (Jan 3, 2009)

That is a nice crankshaft, might try one by that method!


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## IronHorse (Jan 3, 2009)

Since I was using a flywheel instead of a fan blade, I felt a beefy flywheel would look best. I started with a 1" thick 5"x5" slab of Ali.





After I finished one side, I turned it around and held the part by the inside edge to finish the other side. It was turned down to 3/4 thickness.





This shot shows the progress so far, a few more parts to make.


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## NickG (Jan 3, 2009)

This engine is looking fantastic!


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## Brass_Machine (Jan 3, 2009)

How did I miss this thread??

Very nice work. The engine is progressing quite nicely.

Eric


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## IronHorse (Jan 4, 2009)

This part is the main base, also beefy to match the flywheel. I had heard that you could use a woodworking type router bit on Ali. So off to BusyBee for a $14, 45 degree bit. Works great, had to take it easy cause I forgot to pick up a 1/4" R8 adapter to fit the bit. I would not want to try too wide of a profile, with the 1/4" shank anyway.






Here I am milling out the main connecting rod. First thing I did was to drill out the holes for the cap bolts. Clearance holes for the cap section and trough to the main body, then a tap was run down.





I do not have a saw tool, so I used a 1/8" endmill to separate the cap from the main body.





I assembled the rod back together with the screws and some Crazy glue, then it was a simple drill and ream operation.





Now the fun stuff, turning down the main shaft on the lathe.





I locktited the part to some drill rod and turned the side bushings. these are worth the extra time to do because they keep the rod from rubbing against the crankshaft web.





Here I am just finishing up the small end.





And the finished part.


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## NickG (Jan 4, 2009)

Very smart, how did you get rid of the loctite? I've never used it but though that stuff was a nightmare to get off!

Also, how did you centre it in the 4 jaw to turn the shaft? Just centre pop and set that running true? How did you find turning it? Did you just have to take light cuts at first?

Cheers,

Nick


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## mklotz (Jan 4, 2009)

Router bits will work, especially on aluminum. For chamfering tougher materials you may want to consider drill point end mills...

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=SJ308-0214

Perfect for chamfering and, incidentally, handy for making the impromptu V-groove in a part. I have several and use them frequently.


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## IronHorse (Jan 4, 2009)

> how did you get rid of the loctite?



I was lucky, when I removed the screws, and taped the cap it came apart and all the locktite stayed on the rod.



> how did you centre it in the 4 jaw to turn the shaft?



Just with a dial indicator and some patience. I have heard some guys prefer to chuck even round material in a four jaw. I think they say it is more accurate. I am getting better at the four jaw, but prefer the 3 jaw for anything round or hex.



> you may want to consider drill point end mills



Thanks those look great, I will have to order them as my walk-in places only carry basic type endmills


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## IronHorse (Jan 8, 2009)

Here is one picture of the burner, unfortunately my camera died during this time and this is all I have of it. It was a bit tricky to get it working properly. I was getting a real rich orange flame. Trough lots of experimentation I found out that the size of the flame holes and the air holes have little effect on the rich flame. The biggest factor was the size of the orifice. The smallest drill I had was 0.020", so I cut the "orifice" off an old propane torch and machined it down to fit the pipe. Now I had a blue flame, but it was erratic. After some more fiddling I found the position in the pipe is very sensitive. Now it works good, low simmer to a flame thrower ;D






I decides to give this engine an "Industrial" look, so I sandblasted all the Ali parts with a real fine glass bead. It came out with a real smooth satin finish, but every finger print showed up. I wiped it down with heavy mineral oil and it hid all existing stains and prevents new ones.







Where I work they where throwing this old box out, so I rescued it and knew one day I would make an engine to fit it.






I built some risers out of wood and glued them in. I was going to try and line it with felt, but that would get tricky, so I went to Home Dept and got some Rust-Oleum MultiColour/Textured paint. It goes on real nice and hides little marks and stuff. I glued some felt on only where the engine rests on.






Most of the parts are done and waiting for assembly.


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## cfellows (Jan 8, 2009)

Boy, Ironhorse, ya gotta be proud of that one! Very nice work.

Chuck


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## T70MkIII (Jan 8, 2009)

That is definitely art, Ironhorse - very high quality work.


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## Maryak (Jan 9, 2009)

Top Drawer Iron Horse 
	

	
	
		
		

		
			





Best Regards
Bob


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## NickG (Jan 9, 2009)

Top quality and I love that finish.

Is the burner a gas one? Sorry I must have missed that bit.

Nick


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## IronHorse (Jan 11, 2009)

Well here are the final pictures and video of my lattest engine. She runs fine and appears to have a fair bit of power. This project tested the limits of my mini-lathe, but overall was a good experience. The plans are easy to follow and FREE 8), although I would make the 3/16 cylinder bolts a size smaller if I made another one. The propane burner is really handy and a tank would last for hours or days. A nice clean flame and not messy like liquid fuels or expensive like solid fuels. I need to find a way to drill the 0.009 hole for the orifice as chopping up propane torches is a waste. In the video I have the engine standing on a 1/4", Fun Foam that I found at a craft store. Before when it was just on the table it bounced and slid all over the place. Sitting on this stuff is like a instant balancing job! 

Thanks to everyone for encouragement along the way.

IronHorse































And finally the Video


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## NickG (Jan 11, 2009)

Congratulations IronHorse, it is absolutely top notch! :bow:


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## Bernd (Jan 11, 2009)

Excellent workmanship on that model. Very nice runner too. I like the fact that the flywheel doesn't show any sign of wobble. :bow:

Bernd


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## 13AL (Jan 12, 2009)

The finish is awesome, and the case is a nice touch, well done! :bow:


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## cfellows (Jan 12, 2009)

Looks like a precision instrument. Come to think of it, I guess it is. Nice work.

Chuck


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