# Scrooge style Milling machine



## Shipdisturber (Jun 3, 2018)

Being a bit of a tightwad I couldn't see spending a whack of money on a proper milling machine (budget and space a concern too). I took a small Canadian Tire drill press and a milling vise from Bang Good to make my dream machine. 
I installed aluminum spacer blocks and plate to raise the milling slide to get close enough to the drill chuck to use. The depth adjuster I adjust to the depth I want then tighten both jam nuts to set the depth. What used to be a guide screw is now a jam bolt to lock and help steady the rotating parts.
One picture shows my first cut which is not good but with practice I thing I can make this work.


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## DJP (Jun 3, 2018)

You are now on the slippery slope to getting a big mill. I tried your approach but fine measurements of cutter position were not possible and the X-Y table was not tight enough for good control. Watch out for climb milling which can surprise you and tear a work piece out of a small vise.

It may take years but eventually you'll have a big mill in your shop. When you are not looking one will show up and be a bargain so until then create a discretionary fund for machinery and enjoy your drill press creation.


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 3, 2018)

I agree DJP, to tell you the truth I'm always on the lookout for a deal. Yes the Chinese tables have their quirks and with those they have to be adjusted to be snug. I'm just getting into the milling end of things so much learning to be done yet.


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## Cogsy (Jun 3, 2018)

But...be prepared for LOTS of warning posts about the dangers of using milling cutters in drill chucks (they don't grip hard enough) and chucks without a drawbar (the whole chuck can get pulled out of the spindle). It can be dangerous.


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 3, 2018)

Thanks for your input Cogsy. The chuck is permanent not a taper fit like I said everything is cheap. The head speed isn't very fast and the bits I am using max out at 3/8 inch the rest are much smaller. It is about as Mickey Duck as it gets but will do in a pinch. Yes I want something better and when I find a deal or have enough spare cash laying around I will upgrade. One problem I have is space I live in a townhouse so my hobby shop is in a '6 by '16 shed so my milling machine will have to be hobby size.


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## velocette (Jun 4, 2018)

Hi Shipdisturber
To add to the warning by Cogsy One way to LESSEN the chances of a cutter pulling out of the chuck is to use the chuck key with a lifting of the long leg on the key and repeat on  four holes YES once round plus one this will settle the scroll more evenly.
Do NOT add an extension to the key and attempt to winch it up on one hole only as you will succeed in  damaging the chuck and or yourself when things go wrong.
An old mentor of my in my now distant youth gave the instructions when tightening a three jaw chuck was tighten it up using all FOUR holes.
Trouble with this is to get the buggers loosened again.
Be careful out there and do not attempt heavy cuts and feed rates and you will probably survive with this setup.
The depth stop on the left can be used to set the depth of cut Thread  Pitch divided by six flats on the nut as rough measurement.
Eric


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 4, 2018)

Thanks Velocette I use that method when I get a very slippery drill bit. Yes they are a pain to undo but they grip really well. My cuts are never very deep whether on this or on the lathe. I find a deep cut messes up my metal and cutting bits more.


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## MRA (Jun 4, 2018)

I'm half-way between where you are now and a real milling machine - I wrote it up here, maybe you'll find something useful.

https://www.homemodelenginemachinis...r-drill-for-vertical-milling-new-chuck.25047/

Like you I'm very tight for space - also, I have little spare money for this.  I can get on a Bridgeport at work for the time being, so that takes a little pressure off moving house to accommodate some 'real' machines 

I just added a DRO today - two cheap digital verniers and some glued-on neodymium magnets to hold them.  It seems to work surprisingly well - I'll add a photo to my thread when I get around to it.     

cheers
Mark


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## wolframore (Jun 5, 2018)

Kudos to you guys for being active and trying... Just be gentle and careful.  We've all had close calls and drill press mills can be dicey at best. I'm also running out of room but know I need a dedicated mill.  I have a 3 in 1 and keep running out of travel to do make anything useful.  Having said that it's helped a number of time even with the limited capability.  I think we would all love a Bridgeport if space was unlimited.  I even had a chance to get a grizzly bench-top... space is at a premium even with a 2 car garage.   It's great that you are creating!


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## MRA (Jun 5, 2018)

Whenever I go camping for a week or so, I come back and think 'why do I need all this space' around the house.  So I should move into a 6x4 shed for a bit, so my 12x8 starts to feel like luxury...


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## Mr68gts (Jun 6, 2018)

Most of your drill presses are designed to have forces applied in a specific direction. Upward. Part of the reason for the tearing out of the parts is the end mill digging in when the bearings in the head assembly can not control the side loading experienced with milling. I've used a drill chuck in my Unimat lathe/mill for years with end mills and no problems. Just not the most accurate way to do things. If you require any kind of accuracy, a mill will be your best bet. And better yet is a milling machine with collets to secure the end mills. They control the run out the best. 
If you refuse to listen to reason....lol (just kidding of course) there are x/y tables that have graduations on the dials for a little bit more money than the cheapest one without.
Paul


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## master53yoda (Jun 6, 2018)

I have converted a number of drill press to functional Milling machines this is the location of a write up i did a few years ago.,  I would suggest that you use a brass screw for the spindle lock so it doesn't tear up the spindle

This is the write up that i did a few years back    http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/converting-drill-press-mill-drill-7870#post9404


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## MRA (Jun 6, 2018)

That's a lovely job, Yoda.  I like your fine quill feed.  I tend to lock mine off with the clamp to reduce chatter, and bring the job up to the cutter since I have a 3 axis table with a knee which will come up like a big machine.  I used the little treadmill motor (left over from its large companion which is going on my lathe) to drive the x-feed on my mill setup.  Lately I bought another ER25 chuck on a plain 25mm mandrel, and I have a bevel crown wheel and pinion from a hand drill which I hope to turn into a horizontal mill attachment   Got to make something to hold the bearings and overarm - might cast it but I only melt about a pint at a time here.


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## master53yoda (Jun 6, 2018)

MRA said:


> Got to make something to hold the bearings and overarm - might cast it but I only melt about a pint at a time here.



I do a lot of casting, i can cast up to about 65 lbs aluminum with my tilting furnace, I provide aluminum to the hobby market through my e-bay store in 6,14,28, and 43 lb boxes as well  up to 250lb orders for small foundry operations.   The tilting furnace is designed to melt automotive cylinder heads.

Art b


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## bazmak (Jun 6, 2018)

Been there and done that and its fun to start with.All comments so far are relevant and should be adhered to
I too was tight for space and too did not have room for a big mill.So  got a small chinese mill an Sx2 l
The same size as a small bench drill and i found that using it as an accurate drill was so superior i sold the drill
and bought lots of extras.The bonus is the milling.I have made a lot of models of decent size and it has been a blessing
and done everything i asked of it.I would suggest you go down this pathe.Play about with your drill,find out all the inadequacies
and swap it for a small sieg mill or similar.You will amazesd at what yhey can do.I was


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 7, 2018)

I had a look at your drill press conversion Master, an excellent job I must say and a ton of work too. So because I am limited with my resources and don't like to spend a huge amount of time converting my cheap tooling. So looking at what Bazmak is saying about the Chinese mills I'm thinking about saving my nickles and dimes until I can afford one. Bazmak you say the Chinese milling machines make great little drill presses too, maybe I can scrap my junk drill.


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 7, 2018)

I had a look at the reviews for the Power Fist milling machine and they don't look too good, time for a different plan.


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## bazmak (Jun 8, 2018)

I bought the sieg mill and it does everything i want with excerlence. And as well as top class bench drill it acts as
a precision vertical borer. I sold my bench drill as soon as i got the mill,bought a decent vise etc and have never looked back
have a look at my thread bazmak diary of a sieg sx2 benchmill


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## minh-thanh (Jun 8, 2018)

Useful information ... because I was also planning to convert the drilling machine into a milling machine.


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## XD351 (Jun 8, 2018)

One thing you need to be careful of is how the head mounts to the column , my drill press only has a grub screw to locate the head on the column so any horizontal forces can cause it to wander around the column .


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 8, 2018)

Same story with mine it's a cheap one and I think the best it would do would be surface milling not precise cuts. I've started another thread regarding my South Bend milling attachment, apparently it can be more useful than I thought. I will check out a book on it and maybe that will be a way to do without a milling machine for the time being. I mostly do small hobby stuff with equipment anyway so I hope this will be an answer.


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## Nick Hulme (Jun 8, 2018)

An internet search for milling with a drill press reveals many instances where people who know better will ignore good advice, spend much time and money, end up with a semi-useful light mill and then buy a milling machine ;-)


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## Lotus-14 (Jun 8, 2018)

One thing you might consider ---
If you live near any industry (along with their supporting shops), you might look around and ask about deals. 
Much of the metal working industry has gone over to computer driven machining centers, and 3D "printing" in metal.
As a consequence the old manual machines are being pushed into the back corner. Sure they will keep one or two for small jobs in house, but for anything to make money; its all computerized. Hand them a CAD file and they make the part.
This is for real. I recently visited an old vendor friend of mine, and he had a very nice Bridgeport on the loading dock, which he was giving away.
Now little one man shops may not be doing this, soon, but to stay in business, and be competitive, they will be doing something similar; or retire. Another vendor of mine who ran a screw machine shop is all automatic now, and all his Brown & Sharpe and Swiss machines went to a scrap dealer. I got a 00 machine and a bunch of tooling for $100 from him.
Look around you might be surprised what you'll find.


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## minh-thanh (Jun 8, 2018)

Thank you for your opinion
now, I have 2 selection
1 / design and make a mini milling machine for me
2 / convert the drilling machine into a milling machine.
( I don't have much money to buy it )
Your opinion ???


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## ninefinger (Jun 8, 2018)

Shipdisturber: Where about are you in Canada?  your best bet is a used mill, one somebody else bought and has either outgrown or never fully used properly.  A bit of patience on Kijiji will have one pop up in a month or less, the other secret there is to expand your search radius - you need to be willing to drive a bit to go get one.
Another source is local model engineering (live steam) / machining clubs.  I've picked up and heard about many machines through the local club.
Mike


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## DJP (Jun 8, 2018)

I second the model train clubs as their membership is getting older and mills and lathes are always for sale by family to clear an estate.

Unless you like the challenge of building a milling machine from random parts, I would look to model train clubs instead.  You may need to rent a trailer and get some buddies to help with the move but the machines that we use are small and light duty but with some precision built in.

My thoughts for your consideration and I'll stop following this thread. Been there and done that.


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## Timehunter (Jun 9, 2018)

Keep hunting for a real mill.
I converted a Kao Ming KMR700S radial arm drill to also function as a mill.
I made a great deal on it while hunting for a mill.
I am still hunting for a deal on a real milling machine like a Bridgeport type.
You just can't beat them.


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 9, 2018)

This thread has been very helpful thanks to all who have given their input. The idea of looking around for one being scrapped out is a good one. I live in the Vancouver B.C. area of Canada to answer one question.
 My own experience on Craigslist was a good one, to begin with I put an ad in Craigslist looking for a hobby lathe in any condition. I obtained my South Bend when a person replied to my ad saying they had Grandpa's old lathe in the basement I could buy, I told them my lathe budget was only $450 at that time, they said that was fine. This lathe I now have could sell for $1500 on Craigslist so that worked out well for me.
 About a week later another fellow in the film industry here said he had a small Power Fist lathe I could have for $100 that didn't work. I bought the little lathe and replaced a blow fuse fuse then sold it on Craigslist for $400.
My little Taig lathe had to go now. My Taig lathe and attachments ran me around $1000 total and I managed to sell that for $700 on Craigslist. Once the dust all settled my South Bend with hardly any wear cost me $450, so yes Craigslist and Kijiji are very useful.
Think I'll start with another ad for a milling machine or parts of one.


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## zap427 (Jun 10, 2018)

Big thumbs up to all the replies. I bit my tongue when I read Ship's post expecting him to be ripped to shreds for lack of knowledge safety you know the drill...(pun intended) What a pleasant surprise to read through the responses. I know VERY little about machining but it has always fascinated me. I need to start spending more reading and learning time here.


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 10, 2018)

Well Zap I was a little gun shy, reason being was because one time I did get raked over the coals for asking questions. I can't remember whether it was this website or another but I asked what some of the tooling was that came with my South Bend lathe. I have been a Heavy Duty Mechanic for the last forty years so with that knowledge I took a stab at naming these tools not knowing if I was close or not. Turns out I was closer than I thought and the guys there thought I was being some kind of jerk for asking what they were when they thought I already knew. Lots of small fires to put out on that post.


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## oldchadders (Jun 10, 2018)

Shipdisturber said:


> Being a bit of a tightwad I couldn't see spending a whack of money on a proper milling machine (budget and space a concern too). I took a small Canadian Tire drill press and a milling vise from Bang Good to make my dream machine.
> I installed aluminum spacer blocks and plate to raise the milling slide to get close enough to the drill chuck to use. The depth adjuster I adjust to the depth I want then tighten both jam nuts to set the depth. What used to be a guide screw is now a jam bolt to lock and help steady the rotating parts.
> One picture shows my first cut which is not good but with practice I thing I can make this work.



I am looking at doing something similar, using my existing pillar drill (a cheap Chinese beast which has served me well for many years) and I bought one of these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Compound...239771&hash=item3f9c5dad49:g:qX8AAOSwdu9aubHg
which looks as good as you would expect at the price. I have yet to set it up and try it out. My current needs for milling are very simple and basic, like cutting a simple recess in a piece of flat brass, and space is being squeezed to the limits. My thought is that if this works well enough, I may leave it permanently set up and buy myself a new, better drill stand for drilling holes (which I could just about squeeze on alongside the existing grinder, drill stand and vice.


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## Rocket Man (Jun 10, 2018)

If you buy a toy milling machine or build a toy milling machine work will take you 20 times slower and make you wish you had a good milling machine.  You buy a toy you can never sell it and get your money back. You buy a real milling machine you get your money back and maybe keep it several years sell it for more than you paid.


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## MRA (Jun 10, 2018)

Well, earlier this year I could have taken a Bridgeport out of a derelict basement workshop for free (we took a Colchester student lathe out...in the nearly derelict lift.  That was exciting - had to go up a few floors and then come down to where we wanted to get out, to persuade it to stop within a foot of the correct height  ).  But it would have cost me moving costs...plus divorce, plus new house and workshop.  

That might come anyway, of course - but it seemed a bit hard on the kids to just bring it on, in the cause of hobby engineering


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## minh-thanh (Jun 11, 2018)

After reminder: money, safety, good - bad ... Perhaps the solution to improve the drilling machine into the milling machine is the best for me.
I decided to do it and with some improvements to make it the best and safest ...
(I've been milling with my drill, enough for my needs)
Thanks !


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 11, 2018)

One thing I may do is take the sliding shaft and shim or tighten everything up on it to take up the play. The biggest problem for me is the play so if I eliminate that then that is half the battle. As far as making money goes well that was never a consideration because like my cars this will be basic scrap when I'm done with it. I will start on that little project once I finish my Sterling engine.


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## Nick Hulme (Jun 11, 2018)

Any milling machine with a quill needs a way of locking it, both to stop vertical movement and to prevent sideways play, but that's just basic milling machine requirements, once you have the basic requirements bearings is where it's actually at ;-)


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## zap427 (Jun 11, 2018)

Well Ship, like you, I am not a dumb dumb in my trade. I asked about something once that I clearly didn't know anything about and was more or less told how MUCH I didn't know. I hesitate cause I am not sure if it was this group or not. I thought what a way to welcome others to your skill. Jes_s Christ if I knew, why the hell would I be asking. The guys on this thread have been super cool and must realize if they want their group to grow, sharing the wealth of knowledge they have is the key. I say Mill the hell out of stuff with your drill press, if it works for you it is GREAT!!!!


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## kuhncw (Jun 11, 2018)

You've had experience with the Taig lathe.  If you run on to a Taig mill, give it some thought as they are very capable for their size and could serve you well until you find something larger.  I have a full size mill, but my CNC mill is a Taig and it has made a lot of model engine parts for me.  

Chuck


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## minh-thanh (Jun 12, 2018)

First: I will do this part :


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## Iampappabear (Jun 12, 2018)

master53yoda said:


> I do a lot of casting, i can cast up to about 65 lbs aluminum with my tilting furnace, I provide aluminum to the hobby market through my e-bay store in 6,14,28, and 43 lb boxes as well  up to 250lb orders for small foundry operations.   The tilting furnace is designed to melt automotive cylinder heads.
> 
> Art b


Perhaps you could post a link to your Ebay site.


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## master53yoda (Jun 12, 2018)

Iampappabear said:


> Perhaps you could post a link to your Ebay site.



this is the link to the Ebay store https://www.ebay.com/str/aandashandiwork  I also do a discount on the 43 lb boxes ordered direct to my email address handled through PayPal.   I do between 6000 and 8000 lbs per year. 
My email address is [email protected]  I didn't post the link at first because I was unsure about whether that was appropriate or not. 
send me an email if you want to  
Art B


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## Shipdisturber (Jun 13, 2018)

Nice work Minh Thanh you need to do a thread on that build.


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## minh-thanh (Jun 13, 2018)

Thanks Shipdisturber !
Yes I will do it , About three more days when I finished it, I have some pictures in process make it.


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## tim9lives (Jul 3, 2018)

Yep...Totally agree with others. I went the direction of building a mill. First acquisition was an Atlas 618 but then wanted a mill. Picked up a scrap 4 cylinder Ford and mounted a spindle with pulleys and motor. Its the monstrosity which really snagged me into the hobby. Moved up to a Burke model #0... then a Rung Fu 45 clone...then a couple of  South Bend 9s. It just never ends.


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## Shipdisturber (Jul 3, 2018)

Any pictures of that Ford motor? I can see where the main bearings would keep spindle deflection to a bare minimum. Another bone to chew on. I'm actually looking at possibly getting a EMCO 3 Lathe with milling attachment still waiting for the guy selling to get back to me. What are your thoughts on this machine?


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## Apprentice707 (Jul 4, 2018)

This is an interesting thread, I too have been down the "convert a drilling machine" route. At the time I was strapped for space and wanted to utilise the carriage and crosslide of my Myford Super 7. 

I rebuilt the spindle of the drill with a large tapered nose bearing and a 2 MT Myford nose. I added a fine feed worm and gear and a simple disengaging mechanism to enable the retention of the drilling facility. 
This was bolted to the Myford bed with a homemade column base which seemed very rigid. 

With a quill lock and the use of my Myford split collets I was able to achieve a reasonably tight and accurate milling system, but still had to be careful not to try to take too deep a cut.

I have now moved on to a small Warco WM 14 mill which seems to do all I need and the converted drilling head has reverted to a drilling machine which is nice and tight. The Myford mountings are retained just in case I ever need them again. 

I note that the "Cheap Chinese" drilling machines available today don't have cast tables and bases, just pressed items, perhaps these don't make for as robust a set up as before. Buyer beware!!

My time in semi-retirement is now taken up with small steam engine building and the restoration of my 5 inch gauge Tich.

Hope the pics tell their own story.

Happy Days!!


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## Shipdisturber (Jul 7, 2018)

Apprentice that looks like a really good conversion and fairly simple too. I'm getting a Skil drill press and I think I will convert that instead of my Canadian tire light duty drill press.


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## Apprentice707 (Jul 8, 2018)

Thanks Shipdisturber

Sorry there are no drawings I made it up as I went along.
I have used a Chinese drill press as the basis for another useful machine, again no drawings. It is a tapping jig, I am sure you can work out what I did, but will publish a picture when I return to my workshop in a few days time.

E bay, craigslist and gumtree are good sources of older drill presses which have the cast iron base and table so essential to a rigid machine.

Good luck with your project, look forward to seeing pictures in due course.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 8, 2018)

Somewhat wearily, I have repeated where I have got to.
I have a George Thomas Staking Tool to do lots more than than can be easily achieved converting a Chinese Drilling Machine although I have had one from days past.
Again, I described how a staking tool could be made from Thomas's drawings originally in Model Engineer and now in his book Workshop Techniques. I also described how a simple version could be knocked up using- then -scrap con-rods from a BMC  or Japanese copy  'A' series engine.


Maybe throwing snowballs at the Moon might be a better way of using my time.

Norman


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## Shipdisturber (Jul 8, 2018)

Thank you Apprentice and Norman. I looked up the George Thomas Staking Tool and to me it looks kind of light duty to use as a milling machine, I'm probably wrong here. It looks like an Arbour, drill press combination which would be more useful and accurate than press fitting pieces in a vise. I'm actually thinking of gutting one of the drill presses and using the parts to make a better milling machine. The hardest part will be locating a feed for it. I'm wondering is a car rack and pinion set up would be useful, they would be bushed at each and a good fit.


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## goldstar31 (Jul 8, 2018)

If you follow Thomas and then Dr W .A.  Bennet's additions to Workshop Techniques from  the earlier 'Dividing and Graduating' book and the 'Universal pillar Tool ', Bill added the modifications of Jim Batchelor of Leeds to move the UPT tool onto the Myford lathe saddle. Again, for horologists and whatever, this is a very useful addition.
My own thoughts are not to much expect the UPT to do heavy drilling. It is quite a precise bit of tooling and is used with a finger plate.

I've a  'Chinese' cheap as chips affair which cost about £30 at the local Supermarket. As it came with its own vice and would rise and fall as well as tilt, it was worthwhile additions as being in cast iron, it was quite a good intermediate between my mill/drill and the UPT.

NB, If you are going along the UPT construction, might I suggest that you don't use the Mark 1 arms!

Regards

Norman


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## Shipdisturber (Jul 9, 2018)

Thanks Norman I'll keep that in mind.


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## Wizard69 (Jul 21, 2018)

This is a very interesting thread and to be honest I've thought about doing a mill conversion of a drill press.  The problem that keeps me away from going that route is the large amount if work required to get what will be a small capacity machine.   Not that small machines are bad mind you but lets face it building a small mill somewhat like a TAIG is not that much more of a job and you end up with a much better milling machine.   So if you guys are in need of a mill you might want to consider a DIY approach that would give you decent results for the effort input.   Square steel tubing is cheap as drops, you can make your own spindle assembly or buy one from TAIG, Sherline or even Grizzly.    Now for some such small machines are of limited use but for many tasks they are often the better choice and frankly such a mill even though it is small, will out perform a cobbled together drill press conversion. 

That being said i do have a drill press with a buggered up MT socket.  It needs a new spindle and has be come a get around to it project.    To be honest my opinion of MT sockets isn't all that good, as such I've seriously have considered putting an ER nose on the new spindle.  In my mind a ER collet is a modern solution and by default securely holds your tools.   The secure nature is important because I've had taper pull outs using sanding drums of all things.   Basically if it doesn't have a draw bar I'm not interested in a conversion that uses a MT.  

In any event one thing that is obvious in my mind is that many of the mods to make a drill press into a milling machine really result in a better drill press.   The reality is most of the Chinese drill presses are crap if you are buying in the sub $1000 range.   The spindle bearings are terrible with huge runout and some so loose that they wobble.  The quills are often loose in the castings.   Basically they are machines for work where gross errors are not a problem - wood working for example.   Try to do precision work with a half millimeter drill bit and you are screwed.   So there is a lot to be said for fixing these machines to make them suitable for model engineering and other precision metal working needs.  Someplace on the net there is an article buy a guy that did just that.   He fabricated a properly sized quill, a new spindle all fitted to better bearings simply to produce a drill press that works properly.   Of course you likely would need a mill to do this in the first place.  

In any event what im getting at here is that maybe the goal of a drill press rebuild ought to be to produce a better drill press that might also handle light milling.   That way when you do manage to get that Bridgeport the drill press will still have a purpose in your shop.   

By the way for most drill press designs out there you will only be doing light (very light) milling anyways.  The head connections to the column just will not handle radial loads.   On top of that the columns are often of steel these days.   You should consider yourself lucky if you find a drill press with a rigid cast iron column that solidly attaches the head to that column.  

Now for one other point, some of the hobby class milling machines are actually pretty good drill presses.  You would want a machine with a movable quill and a stiff column.  So it pays to keep an eye out for these machines as used solutions.


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## Wizard69 (Jul 21, 2018)

One more thing here.   I mentioned above that the hobby class milling machines are very useful as drill presses.   I might point out that some time ago i purchased a large drill press for a good amount of money.  A few years later it has become obvious that i would have been better off buying a small mill for a little bit more money.   Yes it would have been a kit mill but the versatility would have been a huge pay off.  It is better to upgrade and tune a mill than a drill press.  Plus i would actually have a mill now.  

The large drill press was purchased to support wood and metal working with the power to run large drill bits, hole saws, sanding drums and the like.   A small hobby mill would crap out trying to drill some of the things that i needed done but with a mill there are ways around having to chuck a 5/8" or larger drill bit.  

In any event the sad reality is that a purchase that made sense a decade ago might not make sense if your interests change.   Or if technology moves forward, CNC is perhaps the best way to leverage light weight machinery  to get results that one couldn't cost effectively a decade ago.


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