# Boiler Construction Photographs.



## Tony Bird (Jun 29, 2011)

Hi,
Last week I built a boiler for a friend who had designed it for use on a 16mm scale locomotive. Following is a series of photographs taken during its construction which I hope are found interesting. Starting with cutting the copper barrel and tube plate.






























Continued on next post.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 29, 2011)

To continue. Forming the tube plate.









































Continued in next post

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 29, 2011)

To Continue again with boiler barrel.





















Taking longer than I thought so will continue later today.


Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 29, 2011)

Some more photographs.
Machining tube plate and flue.









































More to come.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 29, 2011)

Continue.
Soldering boiler and making turret.





















































Next is last post.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 29, 2011)

Finished!
















I hope that the members that have viewed these images have enjoyed them.
Regards Tony.


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## malcolmt (Jun 29, 2011)

:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:

Well that showed me a thing or two, Absolutely brilliant thank you for sharing such great work.
Malc


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## GWRdriver (Jun 29, 2011)

Tony,
That's about as clear and well-presented a small boiler tutorial as I have seen . . . and essentially without captioning. One thing I can't see is why rolling/raising a bead (for lack of the right term) on a tube end was necessary, or where this was used (which would probably explian why.)  I've built quite a few dozen such boilers and haven't come across a need for rolling a bead into a tube but your setup is quick and clever.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 29, 2011)

Hi.

*Tony,
That's about as clear and well-presented a small boiler tutorial as I have seen . . . and essentially without captioning. One thing I can't see is why rolling/raising a bead (for lack of the right term) on a tube end was necessary, or where this was used (which would probably explian why.)  I've built quite a few dozen such boilers and haven't come across a need for rolling a bead into a tube but your setup is quick and clever.*

It's a hang on from when I made a lot of multi-tube boilers. It stops the tubes falling through the tube plate at the fire box end of the boiler on assembly, it might even give a better joint. I also use to make the fire tubes a couple of different lengths for use in multi-tube boilers, to make it easier to get them through the front tube plate after soldering them into the fire box tube plate.

Hope this explains.

Regards Tony.


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## cfellows (Jun 29, 2011)

Tony, thanks for taking the time and effort to post these pictures. Very nicely done and very informative to those of us who have never made a boiler.

I am planning to make my first boiler in the near future and it will be about the same size as yours. What is the diameter and length of the boiler tube and flue you used? Also, where did you get the plans?

Thx...
Chuck


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## Tony Bird (Jun 29, 2011)

Hi Chuck,

_*I am planning to make my first boiler in the near future and it will be about the same size as yours. What is the diameter and length of the boiler tube and flue you used? Also, where did you get the plans?*_

The plans were sent to me by the guy that wanted a boiler made to his design. It is a fairly standard configeration. A 6.25" long x 2" OD 16g (about1/16" thick) copper tube for the barrel and the same thickness copper for the tube plates with a 22mm OD flue copper tube with five 1/4" OD copper cross tubes. The fittings bushes etc are bronze and it is hard soldered (silver) together. If you need any help when you start on a boiler please ask. This boiler can be fired with either a poker or ceramic plug burner.

Regards Tony.


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## cfellows (Jun 29, 2011)

Thanks, Tony. My boiler will be just a bit larger. The copper tube I have is 2.75" diameter with a wall thickness of .080". It seems like there are an awful lot of holes and fittings in the boiler. Is there any way you can identify some of them? For example, I've attached a photo showing a section from the drawing shown in one of your photos. Not sure what that little tube leading from the front of the boiler to the larger fixture on top is.


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## Dan Rowe (Jun 29, 2011)

Chuck,
That is the dry pipe. It turns up in the steam dome and supplies dry steam to the backhead of the boiler.

Dan


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## cfellows (Jun 30, 2011)

So the steam enters the end of the dry pipe in the dome? And is then fed down through the dry pipe and out the back of the boiler? Sorry, I'm not familiar with a lot of the terms used in boilers. Is the purpose of the dome and this arrangement to minimize the amount of water that enters the dry pipe? Also, googling boilers and dry pipe, I found a lot of the dry pipes, especially on full size boilers, had many holes drilled into the bottom so condensed water could drain back into the boiler. Would the model dry pipe also have holes drilled in the bottom?

Thx (for your patience)...
Chuck


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## Maryak (Jun 30, 2011)

cfellows  said:
			
		

> Would the model dry pipe also have holes drilled in the bottom?



IMHO not if it takes it's steam from a dome, the dome is the water reducer/steam collector. If the stop valve is on the top of the drum without a dome then usually, the underside of the stop is connected to a dry pipe running horizontally along the inside top of the drum/shell. It is blanked at each end, drain holes are fitted at the bottom of each end blank and it has holes or slots along the top to allow the steam to enter the pipe. Both the dome and the underside dry pipe are means of trying to even out the take off of steam from the whole of the water surface in the boiler.

The term dry pipe is a pretty loose expression as any steam leaving the shell or steam drum of a boiler will have some water present probably a dryness fraction of 0.8-0.9.

Hope this helps

Best Regards
Bob


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## Tony Bird (Jun 30, 2011)

Hi Chuck,
As has been said the pipe inside the boiler is there to collect the steam from well above the water. As I expect you know the temperature of the water in the boiler is well above its boiling point so when steam is drawn some of the water changes into steam. As this causes the water to surge upwards in the area of steam collection the steam pipe is often arranged to be well above the surface of the water hence the stem dome so water doesn't get in the steam pipe. Another way of doing the same is to have a pipe running the length of the boiler close to the top of its barrel. This pipe is perforated on its top side and closed at its end so the steam is collect along the length of the boiler and there is less of a surge.
The same applies in models it is a good idea to collect the steam from well above the water. If you are making a stationary boiler a steam dome can be almost anywhere on the top of the boiler. Also the internal steam pipe isn't necessary a valve can be fitted into the side of the dome to take off the steam. As the boiler constructed is for a locomotive the steam dome is in the middle because like the full size locomotives the model has to go up and down hills so the water in its boiler can build up at either end. I happen to know that the guy that designed this boiler has a very hilly garden railway.
The boiler fittings. Starting at the front halfway up on the left hand side is a bush for a boiler feed clack. Next is the dome with a thread for a safety valve in its top. Above the rear tube plate a turret threaded for the gauge glass and pressure gauge. The rear tube plate has bushes for a regulator and gauge glass.

Hope this Helps.

Regards Tony.


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## Tony Bird (Jun 30, 2011)

Hello again,

Forgot to mention there are two blind threaded bushes on the top and bottom of the boiler, the bottom ones hold the boiler to the chassis, the top I don't know possibly to secure false sanding domes.

Regards Tony.


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## xo18thfa (Jun 30, 2011)

Great build documentation. This is the clearest set of instructions available. Should make this into a complete PDF file and put in the download archives.

Domes serve a valuable purpose. Gauge 1 loco's bump around a lot and water sloshes inside. Domes provide an area to collect steam reducing risk of collecting water too.


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## arnoldb (Jun 30, 2011)

Really nice work Tony - thanks for sharing :bow:

A couple of questions if you don't mind...

Did you use different melting point solders for different stages of the build?
For the dry pipe - did you pre-solder it to the steam take-off bush before soldering the bush to the boiler end plate?

Thank you, and kind regards,
Arnold


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## Tony Bird (Jul 1, 2011)

Hi,

*Great build documentation. This is the clearest set of instructions available. Should make this into a complete PDF file and put in the download archives.*

My computer skills are limited, I do not know how to create a PDF file. I would be more than happy for someone else to do it. I could add some text if it was thought to be needed.

*Did you use different melting point solders for different stages of the build?*

No. Easyflo no.2 for all joints. Iron binding wire was used to hold parts previously soldered that might move in a subsequent solder. See black line in photograph of the boiler while it was hot. It was used here to hold the soldered steam turret in place while soldering the regulator and gauge glass bush into the back head or rear tube plate. 

*For the dry pipe - did you pre-solder it to the steam take-off bush before soldering the bush to the boiler end plate?*

The steam collecting pipe is made of thick wall copper tube which was threaded and screwed into the regulator bush then the thread was soldered over before soldering the bush with its attached steam collecting pipe into the rear tube plate.

Regards Tony.


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## don-tucker (Jul 1, 2011)

That was excellent Tony,I have started a small boiler,a copy of the Stuart 301 so this post was just in time,Thanks.
It was nice to meet you at Heath park a few weeks ago.
Don


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## Herbiev (Jul 1, 2011)

It looks so easy to do- 
when a true craftsman like you does it


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## Kmot (Jul 3, 2011)

You do awesome work Tony! Loved this thread!


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## metalmad (Jul 3, 2011)

nice build Tony
I will have to find this again when it comes time to try my hand at steam :bow: :bow:
Pete


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## 11thHour (Jul 7, 2011)

Hi Tony,
Boilers always look so good cleaned up - seems a pity to cover them up.
Is the steam dome fabricated from tube, or is it bored from solid?
Tim


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## Tony Bird (Jul 8, 2011)

Hi Tim,

*Is the steam dome fabricated from tube, or is it bored from solid?*

It is turned and bored from bronze stock. It has been copper plated like all the other bronze fittings soldered to the boiler from its last long over night pickel after its boiler test.

Regards Tony.


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## eatonw1960 (Jul 12, 2011)

Hi Tony
Excellent work with the boiler.
I just started marking out copper for my 5" gauge Qld Rail A-10 so I'm frantically reading up all I can.
If you are OK with it, I'll compile the pics into a word file first and send to you for some editorial. Flick it back to me and I'll PDF it.
cheers
Andrew


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## Tony Bird (Jul 13, 2011)

Hi Andrew,

OK with me. I'm away until next Monday any time after that. After I have written the text if there is something that is not clear please ask.

Regards Tony.


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## doubletop (Jul 31, 2011)

I'd missed this thread. Nice job Tony

Pete


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## cfellows (Aug 25, 2011)

When making the wooden form for the boiler end caps, I assume you calculate the outside diameter by taking the inside diameter of the boiler tube minus 2 times the thickness of the material being used for the end caps, plus maybe .010" or so for skimming the outside of the flange in the lathe after forming?

Also, I'm thinking maybe a 1/4" wide flange on the end cap is enough?

Chuck


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## GWRdriver (Aug 25, 2011)

Chuck,
That's exactly the way I figure forms, and I also typically shoot for a flange finished FLAT of 3X sheet thickness. I performed a little experiment once to see how much 1/8" annealed copper sheet compressed when being severely beaten over a steel form. To my surprise the compression was negligible so that if the form itself is accurately sized, and the copper is properly fomed over, a .010" machining allowance will be plenty, maybe even a bit too much. If only .005" allowance is left, and a few hammer marks should remain after finish maching, no harm will be done, the marks will act as channels for solder.


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## doubletop (Aug 26, 2011)

Chuck

My first set of end plates I dutifully measured up the blanks and cut them to size shaped them and then formed them. I then realised not to bother to much just so long as you have more than enough for the flange. Do the copper bashing and then turn the flanges down to the required depth in the lathe or clamp them in the mill and mill the flanges to size.

















1/4" is good for your 3" tube. 

Also I suggest you consider aluminium for the formers, you'll always want to make another boiler. I've done way more end plates than I'd ever imagined I would. _(note homemade form tool for the radius)_











Hope that helps

Pete


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## cfellows (Aug 26, 2011)

Pete, GWDRIVER, thanks for the response and the pictures. Since I don't want to waste any of my copper, I want to make sure I know what I'm doing!  :-\

I've dabbled with metal spinning in the past and am going to try spinning the endcaps. If that doesn't work to my satisfaction, I'll take a hammer to it!

Chuck


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## GWRdriver (Aug 26, 2011)

Chuck,
I've never had the first bit of luck spinning, in any metal, even after following all the instructions and having the right gear. For some reason I just don't have the "knack." I'll be interested to see how you make out with it.


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## fcheslop (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi Chuck,The only problem Iv had spinning boiler end caps is the amount of stretch on the material seems to make it difficult for me at least to judge how much allowance.Its obviously not a problem if you are fitting the end caps over the tube rather than into it.
Spinning the parts is far quicker than forming them with a hammer and you don't get the hammer rash :big: on the part
best wishes Frazer


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## doubletop (Aug 26, 2011)

I would have thought whacking with a hammer was the quickest approach. The four end plates in the top picture only took a total of about half an hour for all four. I rough cut the four blanks with a jigsaw, annealed them as a batch formed and re-annealed about four more times to get them to that state. I'd say the time to cut out each blank would have been longer than the time its spends on the die for each whacking cycle. Its really quick once you get into it. 

But Chuck I'm really interested to see how you go with spinning I'm here to learn.

Pete


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## tomfilery (Aug 27, 2011)

All,

Firstly, apologies for not introducing myself previously.  Although I regularly "lurk" as a guest, I have rarely posted previously. 

I'm based in Welwyn, UK, and have a modest workshop - Myford S7 lathe, Axminster (Seig , Harbor Freight, etc.) Micromill. I mostly dabble in engineering (and have for the past 40 years or so) making tools, simple bits for my son's car, railway bits based around 16mm/ft, etc. I have an engineering background, but lack the skill to produce the amazing stuff I regularly view on this forum - inspirational and envy inducing it is!

I'm about to retire and am working on an incomplete (basically chassis only) Kerr-Stuart 0-4-2 loco to Keith Bucklitch's "Brazil" design, however, I've decided that for a first attempt, that style of boiler is too complicated, so I'm going to build mine as per Dacre (very similar to the one Tony build in this thread).

My questions for Tony (or anyone else who can help) are:-

I understand why you have the under-dome steam collection pipe for the feed through the regulator to the cylinders, but wonder why it is Ok to use the turret take off steam for everything else? Is this just convention, or is it just to ensure that you don't get water in the cylinders? Presumably, water in the blower, or pressure gauge take off, is less critical?

On one of your photos, you've masked the boiler to prevent silver solder running - what is it you've used for that - is it Tippex? 

Many thanks Regards Tom


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## cfellows (Aug 27, 2011)

I've started a separate boiler build thread.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=15550.0

Trying to spin the end caps was a non-starter. I used my trusty Estwing instead. 

Chuck


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## GWRdriver (Aug 27, 2011)

tomfilery  said:
			
		

> My questions for Tony (or anyone else who can help) are:- I understand why you have the under-dome steam collection pipe for the feed through the regulator to the cylinders, but wonder why it is Ok to use the turret take off steam for everything else? . . . Presumably, water in the blower, or pressure gauge take off, is less critical?


Hello Tom,
Essentially you've got it, and the pressure gauge specifically must only "see" water, not steam, that's what the siphon is for, to condense steam before it gets to the gauge innards. Also the rear, the fountain area, is where the controls for auxiliaries usually are, so it's also a location and proximity thing. I have seen a couple of model boiler designs where a branch from the drypipe is taken to the fountain bush to insure dry steam but that's a tricky construction detail and usually isn't worth the touble in a model.


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## woodnut (Oct 21, 2011)

Tony Bird  said:
			
		

> My computer skills are limited, I do not know how to create a PDF file. I would be more than happy for someone else to do it. I could add some text if it was thought to be needed.



HI Tony

Just found this thread and loved the pictures. I would be more than happy to assemble this into a PDF file for you. If you are still interested in do this let me know.

John


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## Tony Bird (Oct 23, 2011)

Hi John,

*HI Tony
Just found this thread and loved the pictures. I would be more than happy to assemble this into a PDF file for you. If you are still interested in do this let me know.
John*

That's very kind of you. Do you need me to do anything?



Hi Tom,

*My questions for Tony (or anyone else who can help) are:

On one of your photos, you've masked the boiler to prevent silver solder running - what is it you've used for that - is it Tippex? 

Many thanks Regards Tom*

Sorry not to have replied before but for some reason the only notification of any recent replies to this thread was John's shown above. 

Yes Tippex stops the solder flowing where it shouldn't. I think it has a chalk base that will stand the heat. Alas it doesn't shop you putting too much solder on.

Regards Tony.


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## Admiral_dk (Oct 23, 2011)

To create PDF files - Get CutePDF, it's a freeware program 

It installs it self in two parts, so do not worry when it ask you for permission to fetch the other half.

To use CutePDF, you "print" (use CTRL + P) and select CutePDF as the printer and press OK. You'll be asked for a filename and where you want to store the PDF file.

It works with all programs, although "printing" a homepage from IE (or similar) might look different, due to the fact that the creator of the page can select if pictures are printable. I've been using CutePDF for years now, to send CAD drawings to approval by the customer who do not have the same CAD program as me - that way he can still see the minute details of the PCB design, by zooming the PDF file.


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## woodnut (Oct 23, 2011)

Hi Tony

As a complete newbie to boiler building it would be great to great a description for each picture. This would help me and I am sure other newbies understand the construction of the boiler. The description doesn't have to be very long. I will send you a PM with my email address to make it easier. 

John


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## Tony Bird (Oct 25, 2011)

Hi,

*To create PDF files - Get CutePDF, it's a freeware program 

It installs it self in two parts, so do not worry when it ask you for permission to fetch the other half.

To use CutePDF, you "print" (use CTRL + P) and select CutePDF as the printer and press OK. You'll be asked for a filename and where you want to store the PDF file.

It works with all programs, although "printing" a homepage from IE (or similar) might look different, due to the fact that the creator of the page can select if pictures are printable. I've been using CutePDF for years now, to send CAD drawings to approval by the customer who do not have the same CAD program as me - that way he can still see the minute details of the PCB design, by zooming the PDF file.*

Many thanks for the information, I have made a copy of these instructions. Next time a similar situation comes up I might give it a go.

Thanks again Tony.


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## tomfilery (Oct 25, 2011)

Tony,

Many thanks for confirming it was tippex you used to mask the copper - I'll give that a go in due course.

Regards Tom


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## steamboatmodel (Oct 25, 2011)

tomfilery  said:
			
		

> Tony,
> 
> Many thanks for confirming it was tippex you used to mask the copper - I'll give that a go in due course.
> 
> Regards Tom


Tipp-Ex is a brand of correction fluid 
I have been told that chalk and pencil lead (graphite) also work.
Regards,
Gerald.


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## larry1 (Mar 4, 2013)

Tony,  Great job, Great presentation.  Thank-you very much.      larry


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