# V12 Build



## DickInOhio (Feb 10, 2014)

The last four engines I'v built have been single cylinder hit & miss type. It's time to get back to something a little more challenging. A twelve cylinger, 60 deg V I think will be a good test of my patients. What I have in mind is not a racer type, but a early industrial type. Slow rpms, strong looking, with a lot of moving parts to watch. 

My building style is a little unorthodox. I have the plan in my head and design and build on the fly. I will put up a few pictures and drawings as soon as I figure out how. I think I need a place to store my images so they can be downloaded to this site ?

Work begins tomorrow.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 10, 2014)

Looking forward to seeing the pics!!!


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## BronxFigs (Feb 11, 2014)

Hello Dick in Ohio...

If this new concept turns out as well as the engines that you already have built, like the Flat-6 Boxer style engines that are posted on You Tube, the V12 should be magnificent sight to behold.

I have fastened my seat-belt, and looking forward to the ride.

Best of luck with the coming build.


Frank


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## DickInOhio (Feb 11, 2014)

This is a cross section of the engine I will be building. Its not complete, just the starting place. This is a 1" bore, 1.25" stroke, 60 deg V, IC Engine. It is an open frame design similar to my inline six, which is a Randall Cox design.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 11, 2014)

A fe



w pics

 of todays progress:Turned the cylinders and cast iron liners. Cylinders are ready of boring to except the liners. My be I'll get that done tomorrow.


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## barnesrickw (Feb 11, 2014)

4cycle?  


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## DickInOhio (Feb 11, 2014)

Yes 4 cycle.  No valves in the sketch yet


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## petertha (Feb 11, 2014)

Hi Dick. I'm intrigued by the liner & cylinder geometry. Is the intent to push the liner lip down so its top surface is exactly flush & coincident with top of cylinder shell? Is that for more contact area to the head or something? Would you face them together once joined in order to achieve this?


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## DickInOhio (Feb 11, 2014)

The liner will extend .010" above the cylinder for a better seal with the head. I don't use head gaskets on my engines.


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## Swifty (Feb 12, 2014)

Hi Dick, I haven't come across that method of attaching 2 conrods together, I've led a very sheltered life. I'm following along keenly.

Paul.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 12, 2014)

Swifty said:


> Hi Dick, I haven't come across that method of attaching 2 conrods together, I've led a very sheltered life. I'm following along keenly.
> 
> Paul.


Hi Paul, Ive never used this method either. We'll see how it goes. Saw this on the web and thought it looked interesting.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 12, 2014)

Got up early this morning and bored the cylinders and pressed in the liners (snug fit). They need honed and the stud holes drilled then we'll call them done. I think next will be the pistons and rings. Then maybe the crankshaft.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 13, 2014)

Today I honed the cylinder liners. The way I did this was to fill my work sink with about 6" of water. Then while holding the cylinder in my hand under water, I ran a 1" BRM Flex-Hone back and forth through it with an cordless drill. The hone is a 240 grit. It takes about 30 seconds to produce a nice clean bore. I then coat the liners with wd40.

I got the pistons about half done. Enough for today.


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## gbritnell (Feb 13, 2014)

I have seen this type of rod setup but having built a radial I just wonder how the timing events are going to be with different length rods?
gbritnell


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## DickInOhio (Feb 13, 2014)

gbritnell said:


> I have seen this type of rod setup but having built a radial I just wonder how the timing events are going to be with different length rods?
> gbritnell



The distance from the crankshaft connecting point to the piston end connecting points are the same when all are connected. A little confusing, but thats how I see it. Thanks for your comment.


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## Till (Feb 14, 2014)

gbritnell is right.
If you attach the small linked rod somewere off the center of the master rod, the linked point is not on a circle, but on a *oval* path. 
Thus the pistons on the linked rods have different strokes and the timing is different, too.
The piston reaches top dead center when the axis of the linked rod is directed to the instantaneous center of rotation of the master rod.
To get a grab on this you need basic knowledge of engineering mechanics because the movement is quite complex, so if this confuses you and you're not in for performance, just ignore it.


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## BronxFigs (Feb 14, 2014)

Hi Dick-

It gets more interesting each time you post something.  This engine reminds me of the 1917 'Liberty' V12 Aero Engines.

**********************************************************************************************

Is there an advantage to using the crank and the connecting rod configuration that's pictured here?  Just curious why this configuration as opposed to the conventional, more common, crank/fork and blade con-rod hook up?


Frank


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## DickInOhio (Feb 14, 2014)

Till said:


> gbritnell is right.
> If you attach the small linked rod somewere off the center of the master rod, the linked point is not on a circle, but on a *oval* path.
> Thus the pistons on the linked rods have different strokes and the timing is different, too.
> The piston reaches top dead center when the axis of the linked rod is directed to the instantaneous center of rotation of the master rod.
> To get a grab on this you need basic knowledge of engineering mechanics because the movement is quite complex, so if this confuses you and you're not in for performance, just ignore it.



*gbritnell* I need to thank you for calling attention to this connecting rod design. I never gave any thought to the motion of the rods. I was only thinking about them reaching tdc at the correct time. I need to give this more thought.   *Till*, thank you for the explanation.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 14, 2014)

BronxFigs said:


> Hi Dick-
> 
> It gets more interesting each time you post something.  This engine reminds me of the 1917 'Liberty' V12 Aero Engines.
> 
> ...



Hi BronxFigs,

I'm not familiar with the Liberty. I'll have to  check it out. I guess there is no advantage at all. I was just looking  to try something different. Fork and blade would be a good alternative.


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## WSMkid (Feb 14, 2014)

We have been talking about engines like this the last few days in my "Materials in industry" class. According to my teacher, this design shortened the block to help in-air control. I'm not sure how he "knows" buts it's a thought, I'm not sure if I believe it. 

  GJ


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## barnesrickw (Feb 14, 2014)

A longer stroke, allowed by a longer block would have a larger rotational inertia, and the gyroscopic effect would be more.  Planes in the past like the Sopwith Camel  with a rotary engine had a big problem with this, making turning to the right an adventure.  According to what I have read.  I've never flown


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## Till (Feb 15, 2014)

There's a tiny bit of information on wikipedia, too: 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conrod#Compound_rods
So the smaller rods are called _slave rods_.


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## Scott_M (Feb 15, 2014)

Hi Dick in Ohio

Very interesting build I will be following your progress.

 Slightly off topic...

I did notice in your picture of sawing your cylinders that you have a block at the back of the vise to keep it square when tight. Here is a little tip that will take about ten minutes to do and save you from finding the right size filler block. Just drill and tap your moveable jaw and put a length of threaded rod in it. see pic.

Scott


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## DickInOhio (Feb 15, 2014)

Great idea Scott. thanks

Finished the pistons today. 1" x 1" with two ring grooves .038 wide x .050" deep.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 17, 2014)

Did a little more sketching this weekend. Think I will go with over head cams.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 17, 2014)

Did a little machining done today. Finished the two cylinder mounting plates. These will set on top of the four uprights. Im going to attempt to turn a one piece crankshaft from 1144 stress proof. That should be fun .


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## barnesrickw (Feb 17, 2014)

I'm trying to imagine the timing sequence for that.  


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## DickInOhio (Feb 17, 2014)

barnesrickw said:


> I'm trying to imagine the timing sequence for that.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Model Engines




Me too.


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## barnesrickw (Feb 17, 2014)

90 degree crank offset?  


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## DickInOhio (Feb 17, 2014)

barnesrickw said:


> 90 degree crank offset?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Model Engines



120 deg, Same as for a 6 cylinder. (I think) I will be using the old Ferrari firing order.


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## barnesrickw (Feb 17, 2014)

Hope it rewards you with that sweet Ferrari sound.  I'm assuming you've seen the scale model Ferrari 308(?) the guy from Germany built?  It has that sound.  


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## DickInOhio (Feb 19, 2014)

barnesrickw said:


> Hope it rewards you with that sweet Ferrari sound.  I'm assuming you've seen the scale model Ferrari 308(?) the guy from Germany built?  It has that sound.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Model Engines



Well we can always dream, I'll take what ever sound it gives me.
Got the material for the crankshaft today (1144 stress proof). Gona change my mind and go with a built-up crank. Also going to go with pushrods and rocker arms for the valves.


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## gbritnell (Feb 19, 2014)

Hi Dick,
Boy that thing is looking good. I just noticed in your avatar that you're from Loudonville, we're almost neighbors. I'm from Strongsville.


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## Lakc (Feb 19, 2014)

gbritnell said:


> Hi Dick,
> Boy that thing is looking good. I just noticed in your avatar that you're from Loudonville, we're almost neighbors. I'm from Strongsville.



Road trip!  Probably more like snowmobile trip, with the exception of today through Friday.  I would love to see George's workshop even though every thing he makes leaves me feeling quite inadequate.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 19, 2014)

gbritnell said:


> Hi Dick,
> Boy that thing is looking good. I just noticed in your avatar that you're from Loudonville, we're almost neighbors. I'm from Strongsville.



Don't think ive ever been to strongsville. Yep been in loudonville all my life. Anything farther than 20 miles is a pretty fur piece any more.


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## barnesrickw (Feb 19, 2014)

Born in Mansfield, lived in Lexington for a while.  Still have some, but not much family down there.  Not sure how much you know about Richland County.  Dad ran Richland Blyeprint.  Grandmother was a local "famous" artist.  Margaret Swank. 


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## DickInOhio (Feb 20, 2014)

barnesrickw said:


> Born in Mansfield, lived in Lexington for a while.  Still have some, but not much family down there.  Not sure how much you know about Richland County.  Dad ran Richland Blyeprint.  Grandmother was a local "famous" artist.  Margaret Swank.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Model Engines



Small world. The name Swank rings a few bells.


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## barnesrickw (Feb 20, 2014)

There are a few of them around there.  Mostly Belleville. 


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## BronxFigs (Feb 21, 2014)

Dick I-O....

Will the V-12 drawings be made available for purchase?  I hope.....

********************************************************************************************

Now, at this stage, the engine is starting to resemble the "Artus V-12" air-cooled Aero engine.  Nice!

Frank


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## DickInOhio (Feb 21, 2014)

BronxFigs said:


> Dick I-O....
> 
> Will the V-12 drawings be made available for purchase?  I hope.....
> 
> ...



Bronx, I don't have drawings. I work from sketches and just kind of wing it.


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## cfellows (Feb 22, 2014)

Just came across this thread.  That's some nice work.  I have a feeling it'll be a bit of a struggle to tame that engine down to a nice idle!  Have you decided on a compression ratio?

 Chuck


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## BronxFigs (Feb 22, 2014)

Dick...

Just had to ask, but I expected your answer.  Thanks for letting us in on the build.


Frank


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## DickInOhio (Feb 22, 2014)

cfellows said:


> Just came across this thread.  That's some nice work.  I have a feeling it'll be a bit of a struggle to tame that engine down to a nice idle!  Have you decided on a compression ratio?
> 
> Chuck



hey Chuck, good to see you here. You know me I like a good idling engine so I'll do what I can to make it work. I haven't settled on a compression ratio. Nothing too high, I don't want it bouncing all over the place. Do you have a favorite compression calculator. I found several online, but they cause me to do a lot of head scratching.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 22, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> Do you have a favorite compression calculator. I found several online, but they cause me to do a lot of head scratching.



I tried to attach one but the file size is too large. Sorry


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## DickInOhio (Feb 22, 2014)

stevehuckss396 said:


> I tried to attach one but the file size is too large. Sorry



 Thanks Steve. Is it one I can find online ?


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## jdcool4 (Feb 23, 2014)

This one might work for you http://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 23, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> Thanks Steve. Is it one I can find online ?



No its a program I wrote years ago to save myself some time.

PM your email and i'll mail it if you are still interested.


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## stevehuckss396 (Feb 23, 2014)

jdcool4 said:


> This one might work for you http://www.cbperformance.com/v/enginecalc.html



This one looks nice but it does not factor in the head gasket. In a real motor a gasket change wont make much difference. In engines as small as mine a .010 change in thickness can make big changes.

Peewee with a gasket thickness

.040 = 5.17:1
.030 = 5.49:1
.020 = 5.88:1
.010 = 6.33:1
.000 = 6.87:1

So in a calculator with no gasket and 5.0:1 compression, adding a .030 gasket will lower you to 4.3:1. Thats a pretty big error. Thats why I wrote my own that factors gaskets. I use .030 for head gaskets so thats why i used it in the example. The larger the engine the smaller the error.


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## jdcool4 (Feb 23, 2014)

You should be able to add head gasket to the deck height.To get the total height from the top of the pistion to theb mating surface on the head.


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## cfellows (Feb 23, 2014)

I don't really have a calculator.   If you know what compression ratio you want, you can subtract 1 from it and divide the result into the stroke to get the head clearance you'll need.  For example, if you want a compression ratio of 5:1, divide 4 (5 - 1) into 1.25" (your stroke) which gives you a head clearance of .3125".  This will get you pretty close but doesn't consider any openings outside the cylinder walls or in the head.

 Chuck


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## DickInOhio (Feb 23, 2014)

cfellows said:


> I don't really have a calculator.   If you know what compression ratio you want, you can subtract 1 from it and divide the result into the stroke to get the head clearance you'll need.  For example, if you want a compression ratio of 5:1, divide 4 (5 - 1) into 1.25" (your stroke) which gives you a head clearance of .3125".  This will get you pretty close but doesn't consider any openings outside the cylinder walls or in the head.
> 
> Chuck



Thanks Chuck. Thats simple enough. Most of the calculators Ive seen ask for a lot more input. 5:1 is about what I was looking for, so guess Im on target.


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## DickInOhio (Feb 23, 2014)

Got a little done this weekend. Ive been working on the uprights or partitions, what ever you want to call them. The sketch below is what Ive settled on.

There are four of these partitions, one on each end and two in the middle. They support the two cylinder plates. The big hole in the middle is for the crank shaft bearings. These are ball bearings. The two smaller holes are for the camshaft bearings. The two rods between the base and  the upper partition is .250 drill rod. The crank support is split for mounting the crank and bearings. I'll try to get some photos posted tomorrow.


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## BronxFigs (Feb 24, 2014)

Dick...Will this engine have an open crankcase, i.e. all components visible?


Frank


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## DickInOhio (Feb 24, 2014)

BronxFigs said:


> Dick...Will this engine have an open crankcase, i.e. all components visible?
> 
> 
> Frank



Yes Frank it will. Much like Randall Cox's Open Six, which I also build some time ago.


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## BronxFigs (Feb 24, 2014)

Then this engine should be yet another interesting design.

frank


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## DickInOhio (Feb 24, 2014)

Starting to take shape.


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## barnesrickw (Feb 24, 2014)

Creative way to form a block.  


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## DickInOhio (Feb 27, 2014)

Finished the crank shaft parts this morning. These parts will be pressed in place and pinned.


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## DickInOhio (Mar 1, 2014)

Finished assembling the crankshaft today. It turned out really well, straightest one yet 
Next will be the rods i think.


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## petertha (Mar 1, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> Finished assembling the crankshaft today. It turned out really well, straightest one yet
> Next will be the rods i think.



 That's nice. Can you elaborate on your pinning method. Are they tapered & pressed in with Locktite for example? Did you also have some sort of assembly jig for all the components so they held in position for drilling? The counterweights look black, or is that the lighting?


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## DickInOhio (Mar 2, 2014)

petertha said:


> That's nice. Can you elaborate on your pinning method. Are they tapered & pressed in with Locktite for example? Did you also have some sort of assembly jig for all the components so they held in position for drilling? The counterweights look black, or is that the lighting?



No jig was used. The crankshaft is put together in thee pairs.  Each pair is made-up of two individual webs and a middle double web with the correct 120deg offset. Each pair is assembled, loctite 609, and pinned with a harden straight 1/8 dowel. Each of the three pairs are then put together with the proper throw using a digital angle gauge and pins. That's probably clear as mud. Hard to explain.

The material used for the webs is 1144 stressproof steel which has a dark gray outside color.


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## DickInOhio (Mar 3, 2014)

Im waiting on material for the connecting rods. Today I made the frame legs from .375 drill rod and mounted them in place. Also turned and parted 30 piston rings (1.001 od x .945 id x .038 wide). Snapped them and set the gap spring tension. To do this I lay it on a fire brick with a spacer in the gap and heat to cherry red. They are now ready to be fitted the the pistons. Hope I made enough.


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## DickInOhio (Mar 5, 2014)

Finished up the rings this morning and installed on the pistons. Started on the connecting rods this afternoon.


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## camm-1 (Mar 7, 2014)

You have a pm


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## DickInOhio (Mar 7, 2014)

I finish one connecting rod assembly today. I mounted it on the crank with the pistons in the cylinders and cranked it over a couple hundred rpms. It all worked as it should. Five more sets to go.


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## aonemarine (Mar 7, 2014)

damn, thats alot of rings... about 18 more than I would want to make.


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## DickInOhio (Mar 9, 2014)

Finished all the connecting rods last night. All the pistons, rings, and rods are installed in the frame. Put one end of the crank in the lathe chuck and the other in the tail stock and ran it for about 45 mins to break in the rings. 

Still turns over pretty tough, but thats a lot of ring drag. What is the best lubricant to use when breaking in new rings??? Any suggestions.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 9, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> What is the best lubricant to use when breaking in new rings??? Any suggestions.




Break-in Oil 

Mineral Oil such as SAE 20W-50 Phillips Type-M or AeroShell 80wt Straight Weight Mineral Oil.


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## petertha (Mar 9, 2014)

Hi Dick. How is the secondary pin retained in place?


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## DickInOhio (Mar 10, 2014)

petertha said:


> Hi Dick. How is the secondary pin retained in place?



With a 2-56 grub screw. It was added after this pic was taken.


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## DickInOhio (Mar 10, 2014)

Here is a video of the engine mounted in my lathe to break in the rings.[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkEFB8J50lg[/ame]

I would like to make 1/4-32 spark plugs for this engine. Never made any before. Anyone have a good receipt  ??


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## sbdtasos (Mar 10, 2014)

I would like to make 1/4-32 spark plugs for this engine. Never made any before. Anyone have a good receipt  ??

i have made a v8 engine with RIMFIRE spark plug and work very very good..
go go spark plug power..


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## Lesgsy (Mar 11, 2014)

wow that's lookin really good !


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## akshadeep27 (Mar 12, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> The last four engines I'v built have been single cylinder hit & miss type. It's time to get back to something a little more challenging. A twelve cylinger, 60 deg V I think will be a good test of my patients. What I have in mind is not a racer type, but a early industrial type. Slow rpms, strong looking, with a lot of moving parts to watch.
> 
> My building style is a little unorthodox. I have the plan in my head and design and build on the fly. I will put up a few pictures and drawings as soon as I figure out how. I think I need a place to store my images so they can be downloaded to this site ?
> 
> Work begins tomorrow.




Hey,
      Wise Idea, Gr8 keep it up.
We all are looking forward to see your V12. Plz post the pics of the machining and also the Drawings(Plz) So that we could replicate it.
     Eagerly Waiting to see the miniature beast roaring.
Cheers
Deep


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## DickInOhio (Mar 12, 2014)

Worked on the heads today. Drilled, counter drilled, and tapped the spark plug holes (1/4-32).

I found gbritnell's post on making spark plugs. So will be using his method to build a dozen for this engine.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 12, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> I found gbritnell's post on making spark plugs. So will be using his method to build a dozen for this engine.



Make 2 dozen. They dont last forever.


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## Lindo (Mar 14, 2014)

This may be of interest,
it's so tiny.
< https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOslcPxFK3c >

John


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## DickInOhio (Mar 14, 2014)

Lindo said:


> This may be of interest,
> it's so tiny.
> < https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOslcPxFK3c >
> 
> John



Yes I have seen that site. That gentleman is a true artist.
Thanks for sharing.


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## DickInOhio (Mar 15, 2014)

The spark plugs are 2/3 complete. I am going to set them aside to finish later. Its time to move on to the cam shaft. I have attached a short video to explain the cams and cam shaft assembly. 
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzJOy3uxMag[/ame]


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## akshadeep27 (Mar 16, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> The spark plugs are 2/3 complete. I am going to set them aside to finish later. Its time to move on to the cam shaft. I have attached a short video to explain the cams and cam shaft assembly.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzJOy3uxMag


Hey Cool
Keep us posted,
Gr8 keep it up, 
Eagerly waiting
Cheers
Deep


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## cfellows (Mar 17, 2014)

That's a pretty cool method of getting the flats positioned correctly.  Never would have thought of using the rotary table loose like that.  

 Also like that little clamp mounted in the vise.  Does that have a v-groove milled in the bottom jaw?  

 Chuck


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## DickInOhio (Mar 17, 2014)

cfellows said:


> That's a pretty cool method of getting the flats positioned correctly.  Never would have thought of using the rotary table loose like that.
> 
> Also like that little clamp mounted in the vise.  Does that have a v-groove milled in the bottom jaw?
> 
> Chuck


Just thought of that method last night while trying to get to sleep (thats when you get the best ideas )
Yes there is a v-groove in the bottom and thats a Randall Cox gizmo that he mentions in his open 6 build.


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## Walltoddj (Mar 18, 2014)

Lindo said:


> This may be of interest,
> it's so tiny.
> < https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOslcPxFK3c >
> 
> John



Need to watch this one has subtitles and more of his engines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1pJIVqCC1E

Todd

This guy is super!!


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## DickInOhio (Mar 19, 2014)

2day i finished the cams and will be making the valve lifters next. Then it will be on to the valves and valve guides. Here is a short video on how I made the cams.
[ame]http://youtu.be/q7lqZK_8o2g[/ame]


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## DickInOhio (Mar 20, 2014)

Finished the lifters and half the valve guides today. Lifters a made of 1144 stress proof steel. Guides a brass, lucited and pressed in the head using the mill vise.


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## DickInOhio (Mar 22, 2014)

Had to work on the lathe today. The cross slide digital scale for the dro had an issue. Got it repaired (I hope) and started work on the valves. 

Been thinking about the distributor or distributors. If I use just one the rpms will be limited to about 2000 rpm due to the 12000 sparks per minuet limitation of the cdi unit.

Two carbs or three? I don't know yet. 

Going to show my engines tomorrow at a train show in Dalton Ohio, so will wait for Monday to get back to work on this project.


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## Swifty (Mar 23, 2014)

Walltoddj said:


> Need to watch this one has subtitles and more of his engines.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1pJIVqCC1E
> 
> ...



Those are very well made models, just bare in mind that they are all air operated, not internal combustion.

Paul.


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## stevehuckss396 (Mar 23, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> Been thinking about the distributor or distributors. If I use just one the rpms will be limited to about 2000 rpm due to the 12000 sparks per minuet limitation of the cdi unit.



Roy Sholl has CDI units that he modifies to 30,000 SPM. Contact him and see if it is something that would work better for you.

S/S Machine & Engineering LLC
16940 County Road T
Fayette, OH 43521
ph. (419) 452-6042

email: [email protected]


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## DickInOhio (Mar 23, 2014)

Thanks Steve I'll check that out.


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## DickInOhio (Mar 24, 2014)

Finished the rocker arm towers and a few valves today. Need to get some more 1144 steel to finish the valves. Cam shaft and cams are in place with the drive sprockets installed. Still trying to determin what type of distributor to use. I ordered one of Roy's 30K spm cdi units so I will be using one distributor. Won't be too long till it will look like something that can run.


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## cfellows (Mar 24, 2014)

Sweet!  Can't wait to hear what this thing will sound like.  Gonna be one impressive looking (and hopefully sounding) engine.

 Chuck


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## DickInOhio (Mar 27, 2014)

Finished turning the 24 valves. Made the exhaust pipes and the inlet nipples. Next I'll lap the valve seats and install them in the heads.


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## cfellows (Mar 28, 2014)

Yikes, 24 valves.  You're a better man than I am, Dick!

 Chuck


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## DickInOhio (Mar 30, 2014)

The valves are lapped and installed. Finished the rocker arms and towers.
Starting to look like an engine.


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## Heffalump (Mar 31, 2014)

Really impressive, Dick


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## BronxFigs (Mar 31, 2014)

Just watching the construction sequence.  Another great tutorial.

Can you give the source for the 2:1 sprocket and chain?

Frank


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## DickInOhio (Mar 31, 2014)

BronxFigs said:


> Just watching the construction sequence.  Another great tutorial.
> 
> Can you give the source for the 2:1 sprocket and chain?
> 
> Frank



Hi Frank, I got the sprockets from McMasters Carr. 11 tooth is #6793K3 and the 22 tooth #6793K15. The #25 chain from Amizon.com.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 1, 2014)

The valve train is installed and timed. Distributor brackets are made and installed. The distributor will be a long tube and rod design. It will be the length of the engine and mounted between the cylingers. The rod will be driven by the upper sprocket. It has the timed contacts mounted into the rod and contacting the center conductor. The tube slides over the rod and has the pick-ups for each cylinder mounted through the tube to make contact with the appropriate contact in the rod. A short plug wire will run from the pick-up to the plug. Sounds kind of confusing. I'll post some pics when I get the parts made.

A short video of the valve train in action:
[ame]http://youtu.be/9G_KrZVufbY[/ame]


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## wrljet (Apr 1, 2014)

Amazing work!

How fast is it turning in the video?

-Bill


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## DickInOhio (Apr 1, 2014)

wrljet said:


> Amazing work!
> 
> How fast is it turning in the video?
> 
> -Bill



I don't really know Bill.  I'm  guessing about 700rms ?


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## BronxFigs (Apr 1, 2014)

Dick-

Thanks for the sprocket/chain source and for the part numbers.


Frank


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## DickInOhio (Apr 6, 2014)

I caught a cold this week thats really kicked my butt. However I managed to get the distributor almost completed.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyvhiZWm850[/ame]


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## rythmnbls (Apr 6, 2014)

Brilliant distributor design Dick, I love how it keeps all the plug leads so short.

Regards.

Steve.


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## Swifty (Apr 6, 2014)

Great idea Dick, I'm following along with great interest. You work so fast, you must put a lot of hours in.

Paul.


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## cfellows (Apr 7, 2014)

Nice job on the distributor!  How long did you agonize over the hole positions before you actually started drilling?

 I was surfing through your youtube videos last night.  You've got some really nice engines.  I love your take on the Hoglett.  I've never seen one idle that slowly.  Got a nice lope to it.

 Chuck


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## kuhncw (Apr 7, 2014)

Dick,

I'm enjoying your build and I'm looking forward to seeing this V12 run  Nice job on the build thread.

Will you be showing your models at NAMES this year?

Regards,

Chuck


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## DickInOhio (Apr 7, 2014)

cfellows said:


> Nice job on the distributor!  How long did you agonize over the hole positions before you actually started drilling?
> 
> I was surfing through your youtube videos last night.  You've got some really nice engines.  I love your take on the Hoglett.  I've never seen one idle that slowly.  Got a nice lope to it.
> 
> Chuck



Thanks Chuck for your kind words. I got the distributor installed today. It worked out pretty well. I gave it a lot of thought before I started cuttin and drillin.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 7, 2014)

kuhncw said:


> Dick,
> 
> I'm enjoying your build and I'm looking forward to seeing this V12 run  Nice job on the build thread.
> 
> ...


  I've never been to NAMES. I only started showing my engines last year. I stick close to home most of the time, so I guess the answer is probably not.


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## stevehuckss396 (Apr 7, 2014)

DickInOhio said:


> I stick close to home most of the time



So we will see you in Zanesville then?


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## kuhncw (Apr 8, 2014)

Ok.  I was hoping to see your work at NAMES.  

Zanesville is practically in your backyard.  It is a small show, but a good one.

Regards,

Chuck


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## camm-1 (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi Dick
Nice work!
How did you press your crankshaft together in right angles and get it straight?
I have to do a new one to my inline six, it doesnt stay in place anymore.
Ove


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## Scott_M (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi Dick
It is looking great !
On the distributor , are you worried that the poly on poly may gall from friction ? Are you going to lube it ?
If you are going to lube it I would suggest "Super Lube " It has very good dielectric properties. You can get it most anywhere. My local True Value carries it.

Just thinking out loud.






Scott


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## DickInOhio (Apr 8, 2014)

Scott_M said:


> Hi Dick
> It is looking great !
> On the distributor , are you worried that the poly on poly may gall from friction ? Are you going to lube it ?
> If you are going to lube it I would suggest "Super Lube " It has very good dielectric properties. You can get it most anywhere. My local True Value carries it.
> ...


  Hi Scott, yes I did have some concern about gall so I machined a little extra clearance on the center tube. I have a tube of the super lube. Good stuff. Thanks for your comment.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 8, 2014)

camm-1 said:


> Hi Dick
> Nice work!
> How did you press your crankshaft together in right angles and get it straight?
> I have to do a new one to my inline six, it doesnt stay in place anymore.
> Ove


  Hi Cam, You really have to tighten down on those clamping bolts on that crank. I had trouble with mine twisting once. My fix was locktite and a long handle on the allen wrench.

The secret to building a strait crank is make sure you are drilling strait holes. The crank on my V12 is pressed, loctited and pinned.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 8, 2014)

kuhncw said:


> Ok.  I was hoping to see your work at NAMES.
> 
> Zanesville is practically in your backyard.  It is a small show, but a good one.
> 
> ...



I may show at Zanesville this year. I was down there in 2011 just to look around. I'll have some of my engines at the Mansfield fairgrounds this saturday at the train show.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 9, 2014)

Finished the spark plugs yesterday and the flywheel yesterday. Experimental intake manifold completed today. Need a gas tank yet. Should run this week !!  Dose anyone know of a sourse for small spark plug caps that won't break the bank ??


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## cfellows (Apr 10, 2014)

Man, Dick, that is one snappy looking engine!  I am more than just a little impressed!  That's a beauty.

 I've heard of people using 90 degree plastic vacuum hose fittings from an auto parts store for spark plug caps.  I also think someone on this board or modelenginemaker.com cast some caps out of RTV silicone, but I can't find it...

 Chuck


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## cfellows (Apr 10, 2014)

Here's a drawing of a boot made from a vacuum fitting.  This was submitted by George Britnell.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/downloads/spark-plug-boot-and-cap-92.html

 Chuck


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## DickInOhio (Apr 10, 2014)

Thanks for the info on the plug caps Chuck. I think that's just what I'm looking for.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 12, 2014)

Well it spoke yesterday evening. I cranked it over with my electric drill and it ran for about 2 seconds and quit.     It lost spark and I haven't found the cause yet. I think maybe the hall effect transistor.


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## stevehuckss396 (Apr 12, 2014)

You may already know this but the easiest way to blow up a hall sensor is to have a poor ground. I "upgrade" the ground wire on the ignitions coming off the coil to a #16 wire and attach it to the engine as close to the rear or the engine.  After I started doing that they last for years.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 12, 2014)

Thanks for that information Steve. I'll give that a try. I have several new censers coming.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 14, 2014)

I installed a new hall effect censer and installed a better ground  as Steve suggested. It took some tinkering but finally got it running. Still need to make a fuel tank and will probably change the intake manifold. The front two cylinders a flooding out. Think I will try two or maybe 3 carbs. But now I know that it will run. Its still pretty tight and will require a lot more running to loosen up.
  [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQBTs0c1Gcc[/ame]


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## camm-1 (Apr 14, 2014)

Congratulations!
It runs well already.
Ove


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## Scott_M (Apr 14, 2014)

Sounds great Dick !!

 Boy you really knocked this one out pretty darn quick.

 Scott


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## ozzie46 (Apr 14, 2014)

Excellent, Excellent!!  Sounds wonderful and looks great too!!  

Seems like there is little to no vibration as it didn't move around when you walked to the bench and back.

  Very nice job. Thm:Thm:Thm:


Ron


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## cfellows (Apr 14, 2014)

That really runs nice, Dick.  I've got to admit, I'm kind of surprised at how docile it is.  I figured it would be monster to control.  Really nice build.

 Chuck


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## kuhncw (Apr 14, 2014)

Congratulations, Dick!  Your V12 really sounds good.

What is the angle of the V?

Regards,

Chuck


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## DickInOhio (Apr 14, 2014)

kuhncw said:


> Congratulations, Dick!  Your V12 really sounds good.
> 
> What is the angle of the V?
> 
> ...



its 60 degree Chuck


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## DickInOhio (Apr 14, 2014)

cfellows said:


> That really runs nice, Dick.  I've got to admit, I'm kind of surprised at how docile it is.  I figured it would be monster to control.  Really nice build.
> 
> Chuck



We'll see how good it runs after it loosens up. Hope I can get a slooow idel.


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## picks27t (Apr 14, 2014)

Really great job it sure don't sound to bad 


Sent from my iPhone using Model Engines


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## DickInOhio (Apr 14, 2014)

Scott_M said:


> Sounds great Dick !!
> 
> Boy you really knocked this one out pretty darn quick.
> 
> Scott



Thanks Scott, I was a fun build.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 14, 2014)

camm-1 said:


> Congratulations!
> It runs well already.
> Ove



Thanks Ove for following along.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 14, 2014)

ozzie46 said:


> Excellent, Excellent!!  Sounds wonderful and looks great too!!
> 
> Seems like there is little to no vibration as it didn't move around when you walked to the bench and back.
> 
> ...




Thanks Ron, I does run smooth. I think I got the crank counter weights about right. (Lucky Guess)


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## Davewild (Apr 15, 2014)

Beautiful, I am amazed at how quick you have built and got this running.

Dave


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## gbritnell (Apr 15, 2014)

Hi Dick,
Congrats on getting the engine finished and running. I suspect that feeding the log type manifold from one end is causing the problems with flooding on the near cylinders and running lean at the other end. I would think that dual carbs placed mid engine on 2 separate intake manifolds would help out greatly. Another thing to consider is the size of the intake manifold. If it's made too big it will be hard for the gas to be drawn to the far ends. A smaller diameter will keep the velocity in the runner up. 
On automobile engines the intake was designed as a dual plane setup for that very reason. High performance manifolds were made as single plane type but the engines were made to run at higher rpm's. 
gbritnell


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## keith5700 (Apr 15, 2014)

Nice job Dick. I've been following all the way. Great to see another Vee engine firing up.
Keith.


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## DickInOhio (Apr 15, 2014)

gbritnell said:


> Hi Dick,
> Congrats on getting the engine finished and running. I suspect that feeding the log type manifold from one end is causing the problems with flooding on the near cylinders and running lean at the other end. I would think that dual carbs placed mid engine on 2 separate intake manifolds would help out greatly. Another thing to consider is the size of the intake manifold. If it's made too big it will be hard for the gas to be drawn to the far ends. A smaller diameter will keep the velocity in the runner up.
> On automobile engines the intake was designed as a dual plane setup for that very reason. High performance manifolds were made as single plane type but the engines were made to run at higher rpm's.
> gbritnell




Thanks for the information gbritnell. I agree with you 100%. I worked on just that very idea today.  I made the long tube because I've seen it done before and just had to try it for myself. Now I know. :wall:


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## akshadeep27 (Apr 22, 2014)

Hi,
   Gr8 piece of work,
Well looking forward to hear it roar.
Cheers


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## BronxFigs (May 19, 2014)

Great engine, great build, great photos.  I learned a lot.  Thanks for the tutorial.

Got any tutorials for your "Miniature Six-Cylinder Boxer Engine"?  Love to see photos of how you built that great engine, too.  One of my favorite engines to watch on You-Tube.

Thanks for sharing.

Frank


Frank


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## DickInOhio (May 19, 2014)

Thanks Frank for your comments. Sorry I dont have anything for you on the six. I didnt document that build.


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## camm-1 (May 20, 2014)

Dick
I have seen your latest movie on youtube on the finished build of the 12.
Have you not showed it here??
Looks great!!
Ove


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## DickInOhio (May 20, 2014)

camm-1 said:


> Dick
> I have seen your latest movie on youtube on the finished build of the 12.
> Have you not showed it here??
> Looks great!!
> Ove




Finished

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMAIzoOPZEg[/ame]


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## cfellows (May 21, 2014)

Stunning, Dick, simply gorgeous.  What a great job!  I sure do like your work, including all your other engines.

 Chuck


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## ozzie46 (May 21, 2014)

Excellent, nice sound! Enjoyed the build.

  Ron


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## BronxFigs (May 21, 2014)

Dick-

A magnificent hunk of machinery!  Just beautifully designed.  

Frank


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## DickInOhio (May 21, 2014)

Thanks everyone. I was a fun build. Ive never documented building and engine b4 so is was a new experience for me. Now on to the next. Thinking about a hot bulb engine. Ive been studying Find Hansens engines.


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