Would you??

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ccstudent

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
Messages
48
Reaction score
4
I don't have a lathe that small but wanted to say that I've never been unhappy because I had too much machine tool for a job - milling or turning. My thought is that you should get as much lathe as you can afford and fit in your shop.
 
makes sense. thanks for that. didnt think about it like that
 
These are great lathes with good info at the 7 x 12 group - lots of mods & tweaks.
I have a similar one as well as a larger lathe, but find most of my work done on the smaller lathe as most of my work is smallish.
A good cheap lathe to start on, you can always progress up with experience.
Leonard
 
http://www.vernadesign.com/shop/images/DSC_9760.jpg

I agree with rkepler. You can turn little things on a little lathe. You can turn little things on a big lathe. But you cannot turn big things on a little lathe. . .
I recent picked up a 13” Clausing lathe at auction for just under 700 US dollars. It is the same model as the one linked above, although mine still has the original paint.

If space is an issue, I would recommend Grizzly products.That’s not to say there isn’t other quality brands, or that there isn’t quality used small lathes out there to be had.

One thing that I noticed during my lathe shopping days, is that small lathes normally take a lot of abuse, and when they go up for sale – it’s usually because the machine has seenbetter days.
 
Last edited:
so than should i look for something that can handle around 16" or 18" inches than?? little bit bigger. and a machine that takes a lot of abuse wouldnt that come from turning threads and taking more than .025" off at a time? and really pushing its boring limits, and things like that?
 
The basic sieg 7 x lathe is a common starter lathe. similar to what I started with.
Tin
 
cc Sieg builds most of the hobby import machines sold here in the us and Europe. IMHO the two most common starter lathes are the 7x I say that because there are 7 x 10,12, 14 , and IIRC some 16s. There are lots of variants depending on who is selling it. seig c2/c3
And the 9x 19 or 9 x 20

Mine is actually A grizzly G4031 an early 7 x10 is was a leftover when they changed to a newer model. I have had it for IIRC 15 years.
I chose this one because it was what I could afford at the time.

also keep in mind you will need some tooling a drill chuck drill bits a handfull of lathe bits . will get you going a small quick change tool post is nice if you can aford it . about $100.
there are lots of choices do your homework.

the 9 x19 g4000 is a bit more money but 3 times the metal in it it has a quick change gear box for threading and comes with a steady rest follow rest and a face plate as well as a cheap 4 jaw chuck / face plate with jaws.

Not to bad moving with two people and will go on a bench. I have one of those now as well.
Tin
 

If you are going for that type of machine spend a little more and buy the G9729. It will cut threads. I had one of these machines and found it adequate for home hobby use. Having a separate lathe and mill is better but you need room for them and the costs are much higher. The thing to remember is to carefully plan how you use this machine. Switching between lathe and mill operation is slow. When I had the G9729 I would plan all my lathe work for all the parts that required it and then switch to milling operations. These machines are very easy to sell if you take care of it. When I moved to a larger place with a separate shop I purchased a 12" X 36" lathe and a 8" X 30" vertical mill (like the G0730). I thought I would have a difficult time selling my G9729. I posted it for sale on Craigslist. 2 hours later a guy was at my house to pick it up with cash in hand at the same price I paid for it (not including what I paid in shipping cost). He got it without shipping costs, no waiting time for it at arrive, and he got to test it before buying.
 
Tin and N4zou, thank you very much. a lot to think about. if i can remember before i moved out to wyoming i think my old man said he had a lathe. ive never seen it, and im not too sure that its even a metal lathe. if it is, maybe than i can ship that to my home in wyoming and save the money on getting a new lathe towards a mill, which seems like the better choice all around. has anyone had a lathe shipped half way across the country?? if my dad has one, it probably isnt any bigger than 30".

and i know the quick change tool post is a must. idk what id do if we didnt have those in school hahaha. ive seen some cheaper ones that come with a tool post and three tool holders. all i've used in school is hss bits. havent used the carbide inserts or anything like that. i couldnt see having anything other than a cutting bit. a 60 degree bit for cutting threads, and a part off tool? am i missing something besides the bits and the chuck to hold the bits with? and possibly a reamer set?
 
I had a 7x12 lathe for many years. It's a good starter lathe. Like mentioned there is a lot of information about mods for these lathes. Partly because then work better when you modify them. They tend to be more of a kit lathe that begs to be changed to your liking.

I never owned the G0602 lathe by grizzly but it may be something you would want to keep longer than a 7x12. I know it cost more but the specs make me think it would be good for its price range. Right off the bat you get a 4 jaw chuck with it. That is something you may want to buy for a 7x12 adding more to the smaller lathes cost. Plus the 1 inch spindle bore can come in handy for larger projects.
 
These smaller lathes are good for smaller work, but are not rigid enough or powerful enough to swing very large work, particularly in steel, stainless and cast iron. They are also notorious for being pretty rough "out of the box".

Here is partial list of things people commonly modify on these lathes to make them more accurate and useable.

1. Replace the carriage clamps with a tapered gib set up. The existing set up with flat gibs, set screws and jack screws is too difficult to adjust.

2. Replace the tailstock hold down with a camlock clamp.

3. Replace the stock, 4 way tool holder with a quick change system.

4. The entire compound setup is too high and not very rigid. Various changes are usually made to it. I made my own quick change tool holder that fits directly to the cross slide and rarely use the compound.

5. The handwheel for moving the carriage is too close to the cross slide handle. It's all too easy to bump (and turn) the cross slide handle when cranking the carriage feed wheel.

6. Centering the tailstock on the headstock is very difficult because of the way the way the adjustment screws are set up. Also, the base of the tailstock is too small. The tail stock wobbles around a lot when moving it.

There are lots of other additions you'll probably want to make. I suggest you search around on google for minilathe mods. You'll find lots of suggestions for improvements and additions to these lathes.

Chuck
 
thank you thank you thank you!!! i dont even know where to begin here.

1) the biggest project/engine that I see myself turning or milling at my own place will be, i believe it was Brian, who did the double scale beam engine. that will more than likely be the biggest thing i turn. anything bigger than that. i can use the shop at school, or my buddies house. basically i need a lathe big enough to turn the small engines found on John-Tom.

2) 4 jaw chuck is a must than. i had always thought that a three jaw was a lot better. but i take it for this hobby you want a 4 because you can offset the parts in the jaw and turn the cranks with the offset?? is that the biggest reason?

3) it seems like any mini/small lathe a i get im gonna have to do some modifications with. now with that, are there any brands that are easier/harder to modify? or ones that i might have to do less modifications with?
 
1) IMHO is a good starter lathe. the 10x22 as others have said is a lot nicer but twice the money so huge no go on a limited budget.

2) a 3 jaw chuck is fast to set up. it will never run true close but not true. it is good for hex stock. a four jaw you can dial in , offset hold odd shaped parts it is more versatile the old craftsman lathes came standard with a four jaw the 3 jaw was an option. If I had to choose between a 4 and a 3 as my only one I would have to go with a 4 jaw.
3) look at the LittleMachineshop.com or micromark minis these are a little more money but need less modifications. they have a bigger better motor, some metal gears, cam lock tail stock, longer bed buit in tach......
They are drastically improved version of what I bought years ago.
Tin
 

Latest posts

Back
Top