T-slot cross slide for 7x

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chucketn

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I have plans to build a few things that would need line boring on my mini lathe. I wanted a T-slot cross slide for my 7x lathe.
My solution, was to order the T-slot mill table from a 3-in-one type machine from LMS, their part #1664.
This little mill table is 9.45” x 4.33” x 1.02 thick. I looked up the dimensions of the top slide for the pivot pin and bolt locations and transferred them to the mill table. I used T-nuts, a long clamp bar and 3/8” x 16 SHCS to mount the table upside down in the mill vise on the X2 mill to drill the pin and bolt holes.
I used a T-nut and 3/8” x16 all-thread, and made a nut and handle to secure my QCTP to the table. Notice, I have not yet counter bored the M6 SHCS that hold down the table. I will use the table as pictured until I determine if it’s going to work for what I want.

One thing that is evident, I need more QCTP tool holders or I will have to readjust the tool height each time I change from the T-slot table to the original top slide and back.
I plan to setup the original tool post as a rear parting off tool post and play with that also.
Chuck

DSCF0135.jpg
 
I gathered all pertinent lathe drawings together and found the T-slot table surface sits about a half inch lower than the original combination. I'll play with the setup shown in the first post and see how it works.

Chuck
 
It's interesting but when I had a 920( actually named a 9180 with a Myford spindle), I got absolutely fed up with the tee slots which ran the wrong way- like yours.
So I fitted a plain mild steel sub table with no slots onto the existing boring table and then added threaded holes to take my existing tooling from earlier lathes.

So things like a vertical slide that came from a Zyto and a tool holder from an old Super 7 Myford and an inverted rear parting tool to the George Thomas design went on- and off. It meant that, I could fit a top slide which would do Morse taper shanks- which the 920 couldn't. I also had a very interesting pair of spindles driven from overhead shafting. Again, I have a Versatile Dividing Head that goes on and a ball turning attachment- both home made. With a bit of fiddling, I made a drilling machine attachment using a 43mm standard collar for a cheap electric drill. Of course, my small rotary table also fits and acts as a ball turning attachment as well. So does a small vice(vise) that came from a pre-war Pools Major.

It's not complicated or anything like that but it makes a good machine easier to work. Today, it all on a Myford Super7 B and I did a bit of further cross tooling so that they all mounted on my mill and also onto my various grinders.

Maybe some of my copies from other workers may find interest to your present progress. I hope so

Norman
 
Thanks for your comments, Norman. Actually, if I loosen the SHCS shown in the picture to the right of the tool post, I can rotate the table to any angle.
I'll take some more pictures today.

Chuck
 
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I think the T-slot top slide will work for what I intend, line boring of certain projects. I realize the table will interfere with the 3 jaw chuck, and it will require a whole other set of tool holders for my QCTP unless I want to readjust cutter height each time I change configurations.
I tried the origional 4 way tool post with the cutoff tool holder mounted upside down. it will require a plate approx. 1/2 thick to bring the cutoff tool to correct height and shimming of the tool holder to finalize position, but that set up will be dedicated to the T-slot table when done.
I did take some more pictures, but the camera interface is on the inside computer, so i'll post them later.

Chuck
 
****************** and it will require a whole other set of tool holders for my QCTP unless I want to readjust cutter height each time I change configurations.*******************.

Chuck

Might I humbly ask, 'Why?' As I see it, you have a decent metal cutting bandsaw which- humbly- is not earning its keep.

In some distance life, I made up a rear tool post using only THREE bits of metal. They followed the words and music of 'Martin Cleeve' who wrote up in Model Engineer 'Turrets without Milling' He also cut- I think- 4 bits of square and made four way normal tool posts. They were joined with homemade socket screws and they formed the basis of a professional workshop- when the guy lost his job.

He went on to describe 'Screwcutting in the Lathe' before he died. It still is a best seller.

My involvement? An equally old codger and I put on the designs on the 'net' to assist relative newcomers to do something similar. Jim Early and I ran foul of copyright and that basically was the end. Jim died fairly recently and I thought that all traces of our involvement had gone. Mine certainly had.

And then I got an E-mail- and a little parcel and then another.

Let's leave it at that;)

Norman
 
Bandsaws are the things cut blocks of metal on which to make tools- or that is what mine does. If you think about it, it takes only 3 or 4 straight cuts to make a rear turret and rather a long time to mill the slots if you do it the long way.
Both methods achieve the same end product but the saw is quicker- and involves minimum effort.

Cheers

Norman
 
Chuck just make a mount or spacer to bolt the tool post to the dovetails.

I don't follow, Norman. What does the bandsaw have to do with it?
I am not sure either but since it is memorial day weekend here in the US we will treat the GS recipient with respect post a smile if you like and move on.
Tin
 
I have a BV20 8x14 Lathe and wish it had T slots like the old 920's, very useful.
 

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