S / S CDI ignition system

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cfellows

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Just wondered if anyone has any experience with the S / S CDI single spark ignition system? For $50, which includes the coil, it looks like a pretty good deal. Any thoughts?

http://www.cncengines.com/orderpage.html

Chuck
 
I just recently ordered that unit it looks like it will work out nicely.
As a matter fact I was going to start a new project creating a small ignition box using it.
Just haven't found time yet. When I do I'll post my progress.
ignition003.jpg

ignition002.jpg

ignition001.jpg

Took these with the laptop camera
I ordered and they must of shipped the same day they were very pompt at getting it to me right away.
 
Think it is the greatest. Just goofed and left the ignition on for a week. Engine started right up. It is small, doesn't need big batteries. Using 4 rechargable AAs. Runs for long time on those batteries. The most trouble free ignition system that have ever had.
 
.....I have that ignition Chuck on a Breisch Hit Miss I bought on Ebay this winter. I got the $100 kit. Works well and the 4 AA battery pak is bigger than the board and coil assembly. Fits in a shallow 3x5 box. The model ignition coil and C cell battery holder on the Webster engine obtained thru Ebay cost me $32 w/out batterys. Can't beat the compact size either type. Dave.
 
Chuck, that unit was recommended to me by a friend. I called S/S and talked to Roy Sholl. Explained to him that I knew nothing about electronics. He recommended that I buys the complete unit the first time. It included the coil and all the stuff the $50. unit has plus the battery holder, batteries, charger, switch with a charging pigtail, and all the necessary Futaba connectors.
We later spoke on the phone and he walked me through all the necessary connections.

I will buy the $50.00 units in the future as I now have the chargers etc.

I personally have never worked with a supplier that is so cooperative and helpful as Roy.
 
Chuck, I don't have any personal experience with these yet, though it has been recommended to me also by someone whose opinion I trust. I am planning on using it on the Briggs build myself though I haven't purchased it yet, so will be following the comments of others here with great interest.

Bill
 
Thanks for your input, everyone. Looks like I will be ordering one of these for my Henry Ford engine.

Chuck
 
I bought the same system from a UK supplier, Apache

assembled in few minutes and it worked at the first try: the spark plug that I built myself showed a nice blu spark at every passage of the magnet over the sensor

unfortunately the engine didn't run at all, but the CDI ignition system was worth every pound that I spent
 
I have used one of Roy's CDI ignition systems for a year now with complete satisfaction. I asked him to put a remote LED on the ignition to aid in timing as well as an indicator that the system is working. A good add-on.

Jeff
 
Another vote of Go and buy it. It is a Great company to do business with. Excellent products and
Great no, Fantastic service.
 
Thanks again to everyone for the informative responses. I did order and received the basic single spark system along with the spark plug boot and wire. The latter, by the way, is a pretty slick arrangement.

So, I want to mount the ignition module to the wood base on the underneath side of my plumbing parts engine. Can you fellows give me some hints on how to mount the ignition board? There's no holes for screws. Also, I'm not sure if the board can be enclosed or if it requires good ventilation for cooling.

1b5c5b86.jpg


Thx...
Chuck

 
Chuck, I used Velcro to hold my coil unit under the Tiny I.C. engine. The base is also enclosed and so far it hasn't been a problem. I don't run the engine very long at one time.

CDI Unit.jpg
 
For a 4 cyl engine,
Roy said that ventilation wouldn't be needed and fairly sure he is right.
Milled out 3 pockets.

One for the ignition module.

One for the wiring connections and the LED light to show ignition is on. Led fits in hole to rear to the back side.

The last one is battery compartment. Base can be slid off of end of table to expose open area and batteries changed while base rests on table. Simple screw in switch makes contact with plus terminal of battery for on/off sw.

Each compartment has thin piece of Micarta screwed on to hold things in place.

Ignitionmount1.jpg


Ignition wires for hall sensor run up square tube on one side and the coil wire runs up the square engine mount tube on other side.

Ignitionmount2.jpg
 
putputman said:
Chuck, I used Velcro to hold my coil unit under the Tiny I.C. engine. The base is also enclosed and so far it hasn't been a problem. I don't run the engine very long at one time.

That's a good idea. Did you just glue one half of the velcro to the bottom of the board? Also, how do you turn it off and on?

Thx...
Chuck
 
I put together a box for mine. You can tell I'm not a wood person the box didn't come out real pretty but it hold the stuff together. I have it set up with a bayonet plug in for the spark wire and a 2 wire jack for the ground and the sensor wire it has a green pwer LED and a micro toggle switch. This way I can use it with more than 1 motor I took a little video with my wife's Ipod on my this is the first time I've had my odds and ends engine running in a long time. I was playing with the CDI module and was amazed it will actually throw a spark between contacts about a inch apart! I am very impressed with this unit I may just order another one.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1-gSRgTfZs[/ame]
 
Chuck, I used a Velcro that had a sticky back on both pieces. It stuck quite well even after I removed the Velcro and put it back on several times.

When I bought my unit from S/S, I purchased the complete package. It included the batteries, charger, on/off switch with charging pigtail, coil, and hall sensor w/magnet. Later I ask Roy if he could fix me up with a LED that I could tell if power was on or off. He made up a LED with a pigtail and Futaba connector that plugged in between the battery and the coil. Sent it to me free.

The extra pigtail on the switch allows you to charge by shutting off the power and not removing any other connections.

I think any of these components can be purchased separately.
 
Thx, Doc, I considered making a separate unit, but decided against it since I don't have multiple IC engines to run with it.

Gary, I like the looks of yours, very tidy. However, I don't want to take the engine apart to mill out the bottom of the board, so, I'm going to use Arv's suggestion and just velcro the circuit board to the underneath side of the engine. I will keep the battery separate so I can just unplug it to turn the unit off and also to recharge it.

Thx everyone...
Chuck

 

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