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Omnimill

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Hi Vic. I recently purchased a 4 inch Vertex rotary table and have found it a pleasure to use straight from the box I had previously used a Soba 4 inch table and spent more time repairing it than using it .
regards
 
I've had the Soba 6" with all the bits for just over a year and have not had any problems with it. Seems about the right size for my X3 clone.

Jason
 
Hi,
I'd look for a used top cross slide rotary table. Not the bottom mount, they're redundant on a mill. It would give you the ability to shift the center point without remounting the workpiece. Very nice feature for a complex part. The draw backs are they are expensive new and I've never used one smaller than about an 10". That's not to say they don't exist, I just have never seen a really small one.

Dave
 
have a 6in Vertex for about 8 years and it has done all you could ask and no problems
Ben
 
Sam, I have the 4" version of the one you found at Arc Euro Trade. I have not many complaints about it at all. Some slight backlash issues, but that might be user error.

Kel
 
I've had a Vertex 6" for more years than I care to remember, and it has never given any problems.

The ones from Arc Euro are more expensive, but I have heard good reports about them.

If I ever needed to change, maybe that would be the way I would go.
But the way the Vertex is standing up, it will most probably see me out.


Bogs
 
T70MkIII said:
What sized mill do you have, Omnimill?

I have a Warco VMC (and a Daisy! ;D) Richard:

Mill.jpg


Thanks very much for your thoughts guys, I reckon I'll have a look to see how much I can get a Vertex for then ;)

Vic.
 
Update, I've just checked the dimensions of the HV-4 and HV-6 tables in the Vertex catalogue and the smaller 4 inch HV-4 would seem to be a better fit on my mill table (which is only 157mm wide). I'm guessing I could also use my 4 inch three jaw chuck from my lathe on it? There's not much difference in price so I'm in two minds now which size would be best? :-\

Vic.
 
My X3 has a 160mm table and the 6" RT fits OK as you can see here If mounted vertical I only us ethe rear hole and a hold down at the front as the holes don't match the slot spacings.

You could use your chuck if its a screw mounting by making a suitavle threaded arbor but if its a far eastern lathe with a flange and studs/nuts then you will need to fit the chuck to a larger dia backing plate that can then be bolted to the RT. I bought a 80mm chuck with the plate alreadt fitted from Chronos but would get a slightly bigger one if buying again.

Jason
 
Thanks for the information and the picture Jason, most helpful.

After a quick search I've found the 4" Vertex can be had for £99.00 at the moment which seems a good deal - as long as it's big enough. This is difficult to tell as I don't have any specific projects in mind at the moment?! :Doh: If I could fit a 4" chuck on a 4" table without too much trouble then I guess it would be ok as I don't normally turn anything I can't fit in the 4" chuck on my lathe.

Vic.
 
Although I've never used my rotary table :-[ so have no experience personally I think you may find it a bit awkward using a 4" chuck on a 4" table as there'll be no room for clamps etc ??

If it's any help I have a Vertex HV6 which you're welcome to borrow if you want to see how practical it would be on your machine. (also have an 8" which I bought in a moment of madness (read drunkeness !) whilst browsing on Ebay :( )

Cheers

Jim


 
Vic,

As a personal suggestion, go for the 6" version.

An RT isn't just for mounting a chuck upon, and when you do get a little more experienced, and starting to use the RT to it's full potential, you would kick yourself for not going for the larger version.

The slots didn't line up on my table either, but it is no big deal to elongate them slightly to get the holes lined up, there is plenty of meat to go at, or you can just use table clamps.

If you can afford it, also purchase the dividing kit and tailstock, they are not just things you throw under the bench. Once you get to using the RT in earnest, they will become indispensable.

This is of course my own personal suggestion, it is only you who has the final decision about what you purchase.


Bogs
 
Thanks one again guys, I value your advice. I'll see what kind of deal I can get on the 6".

Vic.
 
Hi Vic,I only purchased the 4 inch table as I plan to down size my mill in the near future and if I were keeping my old mill that has a similar table size a yours I would have gone for the 6inch.Definitely go for the division plates and tailstock when possible.
best wishes
 
Don't consider buying anything larger than 6" until you've lifted it. :)

I bought a 6" and fitted it with an 8" diameter sacrifical table. It gives me place to mount clamps on larger workpieces and I can drill mounting holes wherever I need them. If, for some reason, the table gets in the way, it can be removed by loosening four screws.

IMO, mounting chucks, 3 or 4 jaw, to an RT is seldom a requirement. I've made a lot of engine parts with the RT and never felt the need to mount a chuck. Centering workpieces that are clamped conventionally is generally easy - especially so if you take the time to make a center spud system for the RT central hole.
 
and a Daisy!

Have you taught Daisy to wipe her paws before she goes inside :big:

FWIW,I have a 5" Vertex copy,because I got it cheap 2ndhand.I have a 4" chuck on it,and so far it has met all my needs.But like Bogs,if I had to buy a new one,I'd go for the 6".
I also got the diving plates etc. for next to nothing,but have yet to use them.
Better to have them and not need them than need them and not have them.
 
Vic, I would think about the 6" model, seeing the size of your mill. The table is wide enough to easily
mount a 6" RT.

My opinion; The thing you should consider as a main buying point is how thick the RT is when sitting
flat on the mill table. The lower the profile the better, usually. Check the specs on that RT, then go into
the shop and stack up a few pieces of wood on the mill table to simulate the table height. Then put your
longest tooling in the spindle, (usually your drill chuck with a fairly long drill bit mounted up). Now see
what you have for working clearance, and take into account that a work piece will have to go on the top
of the RT, too. Some RT's are rather tall, some, not so much.

My mill is rather small, and I made an RT that is slightly larger than the width of the mill table. The RT
itself has never been a problem as far as its OD and the size of its base. It's the space you have left
between it and the spindle that will get in your way, eventually.

Get an adapter for the RT to take your lathe chucks if you like. That was at the top of my list to make
right after I built my RT, but now has slipped way down. I haven't found a situation yet that needed it,
but that's not to say I won't. It's usually just so easy to center the RT and work using a dowel pin
in the spindle of the mill that I don't see a serious need for the chuck adapter yet.
If you were going to spend extra money on something, like Bogs said, dividing plates would be great.

Just my 2¢ worth, and with your discount, it's free!

Dean



 
I have a 4" with a 4" 4 jaw mounted to it. Because of the independent jaws a 4 jaw chuck can be through bolted into T-nuts so no problem there. But is does take up valuable z-travel.
I have the x-2 Micro mark version circa 2001. like Marv says look at the weight. The old saying the bigger they are the harder they fall comes to mind. No never dropped one but the big ons are slid from the table to a cart and cart to table you do not really want to lift them by hand.
Tin
 

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