Good advice from BillC. It's often hard to start a new engine, but once run in, the compression improves, the valve seating also improves.
Remember the big issues:
1) Fuel/Air
2) Compression
3) Ignition
If you have these,t he engine will at least run for a second or two. That verifies that you have compression and ignition. For sustained running, the fuel/air mix becomes critical.
You should be able to remove the carburetor, add a few drops of petrol to the intake port, and get a second or so of running.
Using glow carburetors for petrol can be tricky. Glow fuel has different vaporization and viscosity than gasoline, and the needle valve becomes hyper-sensitive. With a glow engine, you can often adjust the needle more than one full turn, and the engine still runs, but with gasoline, I've found that even 3 clicks of the needle valve can take it to too rich, or too lean.
Visually, your carb seems a tad large to me. I'd suggest keep trying, incrementally adjusting the needle valve, starting from closed and going towards open. Try 1/2 a turn each attempt. Once she coughs/sputters, try 1/4 turn either direction. Narrow it down.
If all that fails, consider a smaller carb. You need air velocity to vaporize the petrol, and if the throat is too large, it won't run well.
Remember too that without a float valve, the fuel will gravity feed (siphon) and flood the engine. Keep the fuel level (for now) a cm or so below the carb needle, and count on vacuum to draw needed fuel. You'll also find with this sort of setup that, with the needle being super-sensitive, the mixture will CHANGE as the fuel in the tank goes down. It'll go lean on you, not enough fuel. This is why a float valve helps, but that is for the future.
Hope this helps,
Swede
