rcplanebuilder
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As not to stray the other idea thread into a hijacked how to...
I am getting EM's and PM's for details on "How do they work", "I don't get it", "I want to make a smaller version" topics.
Here is the dealio. Sometimes I go 180 degrees from mainstream thought. (You''ll learn not to be surprised at this notion, lol)
Mainstream thought dictates that "Sometimes it becomes necessary to use thin parallels". And, "Thin parallels are a pain in the butt, for the few times you need to use them". Whereby, 95% of the time (most people) use big thick parallels, frequently of various home made designs, and what not. 3% of the time you don't use any parallels, and 2% of the time you use thin ones. And you hate the thin ones. Because they don't stand up on their own. And good quality thin parallels are just a waste of money, because you rarely use them anyway.
A long time ago, I decided that I actually dislike thick parallels. Because even though they stand up on their own, if you bump them, you have chips under them. If you have lots of swarf, the instant you lift the part up you will knock some swarf onto them, and you have to pull them out, clean the vice, clean the parallels, and start fresh again. You also have to make them very square, and very true, and match grind them, etc...
So, I had a thought. What IF....??? You purchased the deluxe parallel keepers, and bought one really decent, match ground set of parallels? Would I ever need to put up with thick parallel's shenanigans ever again???? Hmmmm. Could I use ultra thin parallels 95% of the time, use no parallels 3% of the time, and use a thick parallel block 2% of the time, when all else failed? ...180 degrees out, from traditional methodology.
So, I tried it. I waited for a really nice set of 1/64 inch thick parallels to go on clearance, and I grabbed them for like $74 or something (12 years ago or so), and I grabbed the keepers on sale for $40 dollars or something like that.
I've never used, or wanted to use, a thick parallel, ever since. Ever. (well, maybe 2% of the time, when all else fails.)
I was even offered a bunch of parallels by a friend shortly before he died, and I had to tell him that I really didn't want, or need them.
Here's the photo sequence.
Every size/height parallel you could ever want, in match ground pairs, in one small box.
Pick your height you want, wipe the vice clean (I like paper towel), and clip them in.
At this point, just for fun, reach into your swarf bucket, and dump as much swarf as you want on them, and see what happens. If one crumb actually does get stuck on the ledge, brush it off with your chip brush. Heck, flood them with coolant, brush them all out, and dump some more on there... Hmmm, nothing moved, and no chips to ruin your part under them, or on them.
Pretty sweet.
Now, ...what happens on that odd shaped, one off part that needs to be supported in the middle? You still need thick parallels right?
Not really. A piece of tape, (I like aluminum tape, but whatever...) wrapped around one end, as they are flat together on top of the flat vice top. Open them up, and voila! Center support for the few times you really need it.
And, for the last few, weird, what if's, that always come up? You'll figure something out, you always do.
So, to answer the questions, regarding making a smaller set, or an outright copy for a fun project.
I haven't taken them apart, so their may be a hidden trick up the sleeve that I can't see, but here is the key element, as I see it.
The springs pull, they don't push. There is a very small magical roll pin in the movable keeper, and a slot. The spring hooks around the roll pin, and is tensioned when you pull them shut. This limits travel. 2 tubes, one in, one outer.
As for the ethics of it. The patent number is stamped on them, front and center. For personal use, life is good. Whatever else you use this knowledge on, is out of my hands. :big:
FWIW, I just got the mail from the mail box, and went up to the library, and browsed the MSC X-mas mailer, and stumbled over the 6 inch version, on sale, for $54 dollars. I don't own stock in the company, not going to make any commissions, and I couldn't care less if one fully agrees with my basackwards 180 degree methodology, or doesn't like it. (well, I kinda do, but not really, lol) It's all good. ....But it's there for you to mull over.
If you only want to use thins 2% of the time, it's probably not a good project, or purchase. If you want to use them 98% of the time, and can see an advantage in doing so...
It's all about making cool stuff. And in my book, easier is better. And one time purchases beat the heck out of repeated nickel and dime beatings, any day.
And, I really hope nobody took my heckling around with it, the wrong way, in the other thread. It really is a very real suggestion, for newbies, and old timers alike, in the quest to build cool engines. It's just non-traditional logic, and it almost always gets the scoff....
Use them always, or use them as a last resort. That is the question.
Cheers.
I am getting EM's and PM's for details on "How do they work", "I don't get it", "I want to make a smaller version" topics.
Here is the dealio. Sometimes I go 180 degrees from mainstream thought. (You''ll learn not to be surprised at this notion, lol)
Mainstream thought dictates that "Sometimes it becomes necessary to use thin parallels". And, "Thin parallels are a pain in the butt, for the few times you need to use them". Whereby, 95% of the time (most people) use big thick parallels, frequently of various home made designs, and what not. 3% of the time you don't use any parallels, and 2% of the time you use thin ones. And you hate the thin ones. Because they don't stand up on their own. And good quality thin parallels are just a waste of money, because you rarely use them anyway.
A long time ago, I decided that I actually dislike thick parallels. Because even though they stand up on their own, if you bump them, you have chips under them. If you have lots of swarf, the instant you lift the part up you will knock some swarf onto them, and you have to pull them out, clean the vice, clean the parallels, and start fresh again. You also have to make them very square, and very true, and match grind them, etc...
So, I had a thought. What IF....??? You purchased the deluxe parallel keepers, and bought one really decent, match ground set of parallels? Would I ever need to put up with thick parallel's shenanigans ever again???? Hmmmm. Could I use ultra thin parallels 95% of the time, use no parallels 3% of the time, and use a thick parallel block 2% of the time, when all else failed? ...180 degrees out, from traditional methodology.
So, I tried it. I waited for a really nice set of 1/64 inch thick parallels to go on clearance, and I grabbed them for like $74 or something (12 years ago or so), and I grabbed the keepers on sale for $40 dollars or something like that.
I've never used, or wanted to use, a thick parallel, ever since. Ever. (well, maybe 2% of the time, when all else fails.)
I was even offered a bunch of parallels by a friend shortly before he died, and I had to tell him that I really didn't want, or need them.
Here's the photo sequence.
Every size/height parallel you could ever want, in match ground pairs, in one small box.
Pick your height you want, wipe the vice clean (I like paper towel), and clip them in.
At this point, just for fun, reach into your swarf bucket, and dump as much swarf as you want on them, and see what happens. If one crumb actually does get stuck on the ledge, brush it off with your chip brush. Heck, flood them with coolant, brush them all out, and dump some more on there... Hmmm, nothing moved, and no chips to ruin your part under them, or on them.
Pretty sweet.
Now, ...what happens on that odd shaped, one off part that needs to be supported in the middle? You still need thick parallels right?
Not really. A piece of tape, (I like aluminum tape, but whatever...) wrapped around one end, as they are flat together on top of the flat vice top. Open them up, and voila! Center support for the few times you really need it.
And, for the last few, weird, what if's, that always come up? You'll figure something out, you always do.
So, to answer the questions, regarding making a smaller set, or an outright copy for a fun project.
I haven't taken them apart, so their may be a hidden trick up the sleeve that I can't see, but here is the key element, as I see it.
The springs pull, they don't push. There is a very small magical roll pin in the movable keeper, and a slot. The spring hooks around the roll pin, and is tensioned when you pull them shut. This limits travel. 2 tubes, one in, one outer.
As for the ethics of it. The patent number is stamped on them, front and center. For personal use, life is good. Whatever else you use this knowledge on, is out of my hands. :big:
FWIW, I just got the mail from the mail box, and went up to the library, and browsed the MSC X-mas mailer, and stumbled over the 6 inch version, on sale, for $54 dollars. I don't own stock in the company, not going to make any commissions, and I couldn't care less if one fully agrees with my basackwards 180 degree methodology, or doesn't like it. (well, I kinda do, but not really, lol) It's all good. ....But it's there for you to mull over.
If you only want to use thins 2% of the time, it's probably not a good project, or purchase. If you want to use them 98% of the time, and can see an advantage in doing so...
It's all about making cool stuff. And in my book, easier is better. And one time purchases beat the heck out of repeated nickel and dime beatings, any day.
And, I really hope nobody took my heckling around with it, the wrong way, in the other thread. It really is a very real suggestion, for newbies, and old timers alike, in the quest to build cool engines. It's just non-traditional logic, and it almost always gets the scoff....
Use them always, or use them as a last resort. That is the question.
Cheers.
