Paddleducks marine steam engine

[Naiveambition]

Here are a few photos of the paddleducks engine, by Bogstandard, that I am currently building. It is still in heavy design state so not pretty, will bling her up if I can get it to run well.

For the most part I have stuck to the measurements provided. Except for screws
And shafts for steel pieces. These will probly be closest to their design sizes since I am having trouble turning 3 mm rods for the piston and valves. I hesitated strongly at the change from metric to imperial but, actually seems to be somewhat easier. Hope I didn't start:fan:

The block is of some kinda steel I believe, top caps were made from berrilium copper simply cause it was free. I don't think I will make any more parts on this engine from b copper since it is relatively hard to work with. If anyone knows tricks for this please post them. Brass 360 was used on columns and I will probly finish out the model using it.

The flywheel and pistons are next on the list. It is of some steel and is rather hard to work but, slowly it got to this point. Next I hope to mount a arbor of some sort to bring flywheel to size. Tried once already well.... U know....:wall::rant: Will try to post regularly till I am finished and hopefully up to the standards set with this website. I learn as I go so if something seems out of place to more seasoned machinists pleas chime in, all comments are welcomed

 

[Naiveambition]

Her is a pic of the motor to date

 

[Swifty]

You should try to stay away from beryllium copper, it's not good for your health, especially dust from grinding it. Used it at work years ago to manufacture spot welding electrodes, were not aware at the time of the potential health aspects of it, although not aware of having any side effects from it personally.

Paul.

 

[Naiveambition]

Have been a little busy trying to size yup parts for the paddleducks engine. I am getting good at turning square on the lathe since no milling machine available.

What is the proper machining sequence for turning conrods from square to look like automotive style or older steam engine. About to start third try and can't quite figure it out, brass to expensive to keep wingin it. Any ideas are appreciated
Also only have lathe with taig milling attachment.

Here some pics of the parts made recently. It's amazing how much time I spend just getting material to size. Savings account for mill HAS STARTED

 

[Naiveambition]

Today started with turning the connecting rods. I took Garyk's solution to turning rods from round with a form tool. First one I ever did, needs a little practice though.

Then turned to 5 mm . Milled sides square on parallel's. drilled and reamed holes to 3/16. I left stock to hold onto in the lathe to turn my outside dia. down to size before the bosses
Next will be turning outside dia. Bosses for clearance. Didn't feel like making an arbor so threaded one of my hole punch markers to turn them. May even thread them all and not have to worry about it again. Them and my drills make a very close fit....

Hopefully I make thru with no fubbers.

 

[Naiveambition]

Turning with the form tool

 

[Naiveambition]

How do you post more than one pic per post. Have tried the manage attachments but never post more than one pic. Is it different for iPad, than a home computer

 

[Naiveambition]

This weekend was involved doin work on the second engine.

I have decided to make two, and not waste all the work done to the base plates, plus I had a aluminum head that I had drilled a mm off( not using datum for All measuements:wall::wall:::rant:)
So have decided to cut in half and make two separate heads for this one. In the end one engine will be all aluminum except where needed and the other will be all brass.

With the columns they were done using a form tool to get the radius, and used a facing carbide bit to plunge cut top rings. This actually was an accident, as was turning a face on piece, and went to lock down carriage, and forgot it was still in auto feed, and dug a nasty groove.

I was gonna throw it in my ever growing messup drawer but decided to turn rings on it for practice and it turned out for the better. I think I will use them now. Ended about 1 mm away from crashing into the chuck by the time it stopped. Note to self always check drive before locking carriage.

On the brass one I am still sizing parts. Seems to take forever. I thought this was supposed to b the fun part. The con rods are still waiting for the guts to turn them, then all parts except crankshaft will be left. Ordered 1 1/8 brass for crank webs
And will be looking at options to bolt them together. Would like something a little more attractive or stock for that matter.

 

[Naiveambition]

Finished the columns today. The smallest diameter is 7.5 mm and the rings are 9.7mm. Pretty straightforward process of turning, although I changed machining sequence, it speed things up considerably.

 

[Naiveambition]

The new form tool is working great. Was hand ground, and polished the cutting edge on a oilstone. No real layout just what looked good. Will probly do the same to the brass motor

 

[Naiveambition]

Was then cut from parent stock to 70. 5 mm . Will have to redo one since it was somehow cut short. More practice. This is my homemade parting tool, it uses 1/2 inch cutoff blades, hand ground to a "T" tip, with relief on all sides.

Is this the correct way to grind parting tools.?

 

[Naiveambition]

Last nite I finished the columns for the alum. engine. I must say I jinx,d it saying I found a faster way. Well after the first 3, it took me 4 more to get a correct one:wall::wall::wall:.
So with perseverance I made it through and moved onto redoin the pistons. These are the first two and will need to make two more for alum engine.

First order was center drill and drill to 7/64 and tapped 6/32

 

[Naiveambition]

Tapping with help of drill chuck. If you notice I bent my tap on this one. Was out of line when tightened in chuck, luckily I caught it and was able to finish the hole.

 

[Naiveambition]

Then went to turning outside diameter. I did it this. Way since. The first set. When turned first, was enlarged when tapping. I'm guessing it just pushed the thread thru, rather than cutting like steel. These are tight slide fit and will be lapped into the bores.

 

[Naiveambition]

Here's what I have so far. Once i get past sizing blocks I can move on to real machining. Still have some DREADED hack sawing to do. Man I could beat the guy that invented that one, here's a clump for you sir...:fan: anyways progress moving ahead, try to make at least one part per day, but my body doesn't always agree.

Oh, and for those that want to know, I cut the oil groove with a parting tool, and parted from stock. Little buggers are warm, wait a sec to pick them up

 

[Naiveambition]

Today was filled with taking large blocks and turning them into smaller blocks. I will be happy when I start drilling for a change. Here is a pic of the valve chest bein brought to size. And last nite was able to bring bearing blocks to size, should be ready for boss turning. Most of today went without a hitch, so don't ya just love them days.

 

[Naiveambition]

After the valve chest were done was able to start on crank webs. So I cut of a suitable piece, then faced and turned to 28mm.

 

[Naiveambition]

After turning I drilled and reamed to 3/16 . I did all of them at the same time to hopefully stay concentric. I really would hate to see a wobbly driveline.

Also need to work on my parting blade. It cuts great through brass, ok through alum. If not to thick. Once it gets bout 3 mm in it stars going crazy, squealing and chatter from hell. Kinda wanting a indexable carbide tip blade to start doin real cut offs, including stainless.
Any body else use these kinda blades, What's your thoughts

 

[Naiveambition]

Heres the parts made for the alum. Engine. I am trying to get caught up with the brass one so hopefully I can build them side by side. Most likely the alum. first since its much cheaper to replace mistakes as compared to the brass one. This way i will have a little direction when doin the brass one.
Also went ahead and turned bosses on crank webs, to hopefully add a little clearance.