New ..

[minh-thanh]

I'm a little late to this thread but man what a great build!!!!! I hope to see a posting soon with the whole engine sitting on a stand.

Thanks !
I'm having trouble with the pump,
The pump is controlled by camshaft, I change something to make the pump speed more "suitable"

As to the issue of tap clearance much earlier in the thread I'v had similar issues at work in the maintenance of equipment. First if you are looking fo along taps they are commonly called pulley taps in the USA. As noted they are expensive but worth it if you have a lot of jobs that need a specific tap size if not you have to improvise. Some ways to improvise:

1. The extension shaft trick is well known but my twist on this is to use Loctite to hold the tap in place. This allows for a reasonable amount of clearance to slide the tap in. Depending upon the Loctite used you can have a working tap in as little as an hour. More importantly no heat related issues, even if you need to apply a bit of heat to replace the tap. Also you don't need to go that big on the shaft size 1/2mm walls can handle the smaller trap just fine.
2. Now some may barf at this idea but a common wrench on the tap can work if you have a way to hold the tap vertical and steady it. Usually this means a finger on the top of the tap to steady and a really short wrench to maintain feel. With care you can tap difficult to get to items especially ones that don't allow for an extension. You may have to make a wrench though to fit the taps square end.
3. plastic tubing (air line tubing) can work if you have it in a size that can allow for the tap to be pressed in. This is likely an act of desperation but if you have no other way to get the tap with a driver it can work with small taps. It works better to clean up existing threads and you still need a hand or fingers on the tap to guide the tap square. Basically you have a flexible shaft.
4. Go down to the local hardware store and buy 1/4" or 3/8" drive extensions for ratchets. Cut off the male square end, drill and face for the tap of interest. The female sock allows you to use common mechanics tools (ratchets, breaker bars, screw driver handles & etc) to run the tap in and out. This can be a quick and dirty way to get an extension without the extra work of fabricating a shaft and a way to drive it. Often these extensions can be found on sale new but more importantly they are dirt cheap used. Thrift stores are the place to look and the cheap ones made of cheese steel are easy to drill. Basically an extension shaft with support for mechanics tools built in.

I can add:

If you are not talking about really small taps, you can use an 8-point socket on an extension to turn the tap. I use a T-type handle on the other end of the extension.

--ShopShoe

lots of useful information .
Thanks !

 

[minh-thanh]

Hi All !
Update :
With multiple tests (with unit running like camshaft speed, I don't test the impeller on the engine)
And I have ok impeller

 

[minh-thanh]

Hi Everybody !
My project is completed :

Thanks for the comments, compliments, encouragement, and "Like" !
Thank you forum !

 

[aka9950202]

We would like to see it running.

Congratulations on a fine looking engine.

Cheers,

Andrew in Melbourne

 

[ShopShoe]

Congratulations.

Your latest engine is beautiful to look at. I am sure it looks and sounds even better running.

I hope you can provide a video.

Thank You for posting,

--ShopShoe

 

[CFLBob]

Awesome!

Aside from the video everyone asks about, I'd like to know how big is it? From the radiator to back of the bell over the flywheel, is that like a meter long? Half a meter? Any sizes you can give would help. Approximate numbers are fine.

 

[minh-thanh]

Hi All !
Video :

Awesome!

Aside from the video everyone asks about, I'd like to know how big is it? From the radiator to back of the bell over the flywheel, is that like a meter long? Half a meter? Any sizes you can give would help. Approximate numbers are fine.

Hi
Length: 330 mm
Height (from aluminum base to radiator): 200 mm
Bore and stroke: 16mm
Fuel: gasoline

 

[CFLBob]

For my fellow statesiders, that's just over 5/8" bore and stroke (0.630).

That's 0.2 cubic inches (really 0.196) and 0.8 for the engine.

 

[Longboy]

A nice presentation Minh. Smooth at low RPM. Quiet running too. --- Dave

 

[awake]

Lovely!

 

[werowance]

Minh-Thahn, i am very very impressed. that is a very nice engine and WELL DONE! thank you very much for sharing the build with us. sort of reminds me of a flat head farmal cub engine?

 

[Sprocket]

Looks good, Sounds good, what more can you ask!
Doug

 

[teeleevs]

Well done my friend, congratulations.
Ted from down under

 

[Steamchick]

I agree with everyone: WELL DONE ON A SPLENDID MODEL!
K2

 

[minh-thanh]

Making an engine that it can run is a happy .
And happier when you also like it.
Thank you so much !

sort of reminds me of a flat head farmal cub engine?

Here is an image of the engine model
Morris Engine 1923
My friend sends it to me and I make a complete engine for him

 

[ShopShoe]

I like your engine even more now that I've seen the video.

Thanks for posting.

--ShopShoe

 

[Steamchick]

Hi Minh Thanh. I guessed your engine was based on an Austin 7 from 1930-ish when I saw your model. I last worked on one of those in 1978... Very similar to the Morris engine.
Well done on an excellent model!
K2

 

[simonbirt]

Lovely work, a thing to be proud of.

 

[kwoodhands]

Hi All !!
I have a problem, I drill 4 bolt holes ( M3, 0.5 mm )
2 holes on the outside I can make threaded
The other 2 holes, the taps 3mm is too short and too close
so I would like to ask : is there a taps longer ?
If not,I plan to weld 3 mm steel bar to make the thread
Actually I don't want to weld, does anyone have any other solution?
Thanks !

View attachment 115941View attachment 115942

I had a similar problem with a 3/48 tap in a brass part. I tried different approaches and what finally worked was this. I bored a piece of 1014 steel round for the tap. Then soldered the tap in the hole with plumbers soft solder. The first 2" was turned down in the lathe with the tap in place so the wall of the round fit against the brass wall with no clearance.
Original hole was bored for 75% of thread. I re-bored the hole for 65% to make the threading a bit easier. I tapped the opposite end 1/4/20 x.250 deep for a nut that i turned with a ratchet wrench. This worked for me.

 

[kuhncw]

Minh, You've done a very nice job on both the design and the build. Congratulations

Chuck