My new drill bit finds a home

[Metal Butcher]

After 5 miserable days of sitting around fighting flu symptoms I decided to start a simple engine build.

A recent purchase from Enco included a 31/64 cobalt 135' stub length drill.
This would make a nice hole prior to the boring operation on the cylinder.

I center drilled and started drilling. Great! No chatter, and the bit was cutting like it was going through butter!

Apparently I increased the cranking speed a bit too much!

The drill buried itself in the brass and stalled the lathe.

I just went outside laughing and had a smoke.

I managed to get the chuck off, but it seems the bit may have found a permanent home!

If I return the bit to Enco for a refund, I wonder if someone there will find it funny enough to send a free replacement? :big:

 

[cfellows]

So now I see where your HMEM handle comes from! :big:

Chuck

 

[Metal Butcher]

So now I see where your HMEM handle comes from! :big:

Chuck

I was going to throw that in as the last line, but I just knew some one would not be able to resist the temptation!

Good one! :bow:

MB :big:
(

 

[4156df]

MB,

You just made me feel a lot better about some of the messes I get myself into.

Dennis

 

[Maryak]

Poor drill bit

I am sure you can recover it, if you've a mind too - but I guess you'll never feel totally happy with that particular drill bit.

Best Regards
Bob

 

[mklotz]

Next time you're drilling brass, hone a flat on the cutting lips of the drill. That will kill the tendency of the drill to grab and suck itself into the hole.

You may be able to reclaim the drill unharmed. Heat the brass with a torch and pull/twist on the drill bit with a pair of lockjaw pliers. The coefficient of expansion of brass is greater than that of HSS.

 

[tel]

You could also slit the brass almost into the drill on two opposing flats and have at one side with a cold chisel.;

 

[cfellows]

MetalButcher,

Can't tell you how many times that's happened to me in the drill press. Beats the crap out of your hand before you can get out of its way. I've finally learned not to do that, but it took awhile!

Chuck

 

[Metal Butcher]

Thanks to all who posted a response, and for the excellent suggestions. They all maked sense and should work.

I tried the simple first (after taking a nap) using pair of vise grips, and VOILA!

The drill bit broke loose and came out!

Looks like my day just turned around.

I'm going to try stoning a flat on my old dull- rounded out- bit to finish the hole. It seems a waste to ruin that new bit, after all it is good and sharp!

MB

 

[putputman]

MB, I bet that brought memories back to a lot of us old "farts"

 

[mklotz]

Congrats on rescuing your drill.

Since accurate hole size is immaterial in this application, think about buying some cheap beater drills at a swap meet, grinding them for brass, and keeping them strictly for this job.

I don't like to regrind my good drills for brass either. Instead, I buy the cheap Chinese ones and regrind them. If they're not on size diametrically, I simply use the next smallest size to rough out the hole and then finish drill to size with a good, normally sharpened drill.

 

[Philjoe5]

MB,
Did you drill a pilot hole(s) first or go right into the 31/64" bit? I remember seeing a rule about going in 1/8" steps in drilling, starting at 1/4" especially for brass and bronze. It has always worked for me on the lathe. On the mill/drill, after the first hole is drilled using the quill feed, switch to fine feed, otherwise, as Chuck has stated, it will "beat the crap" out of your hand.

Cheers,
Phil

 

[Metal Butcher]

MB,
Did you drill a pilot hole(s) first or go right into the 31/64" bit? I remember seeing a rule about going in 1/8" steps in drilling, starting at 1/4" especially for brass and bronze. It has always worked for me on the lathe. On the mill/drill, after the first hole is drilled using the quill feed, switch to fine feed, otherwise, as Chuck has stated, it will "beat the crap" out of your hand.

Cheers,
Phil

No, I didn't step up in size, I need to try that. I usually just center drill then drill to size. I never had this happen before. I think it was the fault of the sharp Spanish made drill coupled with an inexperienced operator. Most of my bits are from garage sales ("Honey" buys them for me by the box). So they are mostly used and require force but they are suitable for altering. My China 115 pc set is my good set!

MB

 

[David Morrow]

I was going to suggest that you return the drill with the brass attached....

 

[Kermit]

;D


Now I have to tell you something even I didn't know was funny till I saw this topic.

The guys where I work QC are supposed to be Good with the capital G! But I've seen several of these entombed drill bits in the scrap pile at work. I was out by this pile of throw aways having some coffee and one of the guys was out there as well. Out of curiosity what these things were, or were supposed to be I asked him about one I had just reached over and picked up. He looked kinda funny at me and slightly tilted his head. Without a further word he throws down his cigarette and stomps it out and turns to go back inside.

I had always assumed he was just an old b@$&%! but ALL has become crystal clear to me now.

 

[Metal Butcher]

;D


Now I have to tell you something even I didn't know was funny till I saw this topic.

The guys where I work QC are supposed to be Good with the capital G! But I've seen several of these entombed drill bits in the scrap pile at work. I was out by this pile of throw aways having some coffee and one of the guys was out there as well. Out of curiosity what these things were, or were supposed to be I asked him about one I had just reached over and picked up. He looked kinda funny at me and slightly tilted his head. Without a further word he throws down his cigarette and stomps it out and turns to go back inside.

I had always assumed he was just an old b@$&%! but ALL has become crystal clear to me now.

Yippee! Your post just restored my self esteem!

To hear that people doing this for a living have this type of mishap was wonderful! ;D

I guess as a self taught hobby machinist (I'm using the M word loosely), my little mishap was inevitable.

It was just part of the normal learning process, as taught by Professor Clueless M.B. :big:

MB

 

[joeby]

I can't even remember the number of times I've seen this happen.

One co-worker of mine insisted on saving the company a buck. When drills wear, the margins (the narrow land along the leading edge of the flute) wear too, tapering from the drill point back toward the shank. When resharpening, we checked for this with a micrometer and cut off any taper. He wouldn't cut the taper off, claiming it was a waste, and a short time later you would hear the tell-tale squealing. I've stood and watched him sledgehammer drills up to about 2 1/2" diameter out of some expensive die blocks.

No, definitely not reserved for new guys!

Kevin

 

[rake60]

Well these things do happen.

I don't know if you have ever looked at the back side of a front end loader bucket.
It has two 1.998" holes for 2.000" bushings where the hydraulic cylinders attach to dump the
bucket. On one job we had at work those holes were badly worn and welded to be machined back to factory
specifications. The machine operator attached a 1.5" line boring bar to a 2" bar
to for the boring process. It worked perfect to rough and finish the the first bore.
Then he used the mills rapid traverse to move the tool to the other welded bore.
About half way through roughing the second bore the 2" section of the line boring bar
entered the finished first bore. Heat, friction and horsepower made it a permanent
part of the bucket and the first bore was destroyed.
Repairing the damage and making a NEW line boring bar used up all of the potential
profits on that job but we did get it done in time.

Things like this are not limited to hobby shops!

Rick