More Shellac/Wax Chucks.

[Tony Bird]

Hi,

As there seems to be a little interest in my video of using a shellac chuck. Some of the photographs I hope to use in my model engineering club talk:



Regards Tony.

 

[goldstar31]

Most interesting .

I see that you also have a 3 jaw SC Chuck drilled for detents. Perhaps you could expand the topic by showing something on detents? I've also got a GHT small dividing head-- but that's me

FYI I have a broken reversing set of Myford ML10 change wheels where the fixing for the detent. No, wasn't me.

Again, knowing that you are a clockmaker perhaps a photo of the drilling/milling spindle would be interesting.
I have two from George Potts but wondering how to power them-- without going into overhead gear.

I'm sure that others would also find 'something new' to them

Cheers

Norman

 

[Anatol]

Thanks Tony
there's a wealth of thought-provoking solutions I that video!

 

[Tony Bird]

Hi Norman,

I see that you also have a 3 jaw SC Chuck drilled for detents. Perhaps you could expand the topic by showing something on detents? I've also got a GHT small dividing head-- but that's me

FYI I have a broken reversing set of Myford ML10 change wheels where the fixing for the detent. No, wasn't me.

Again, knowing that you are a clockmaker perhaps a photo of the drilling/milling spindle would be interesting.
I have two from George Potts but wondering how to power them-- without going into overhead gear.

I'm sure that others would also find 'something new' to them

The chuck and two face plates were drilled around their edges with 60 holes using a dividing head I borrowed from a friend. At the time I only had a pillar drill and a lathe and was used to having a dividing head fitted in the head stock of a lathe, on a watchmakers lathe there are usually three rows of holes on the side of its largest pulley for indexing.

I used the chuck and face plates for many years they each having their own detents because of their different diameters. I haven't used them for many years as I made a Dore-Westbury milling machine from part machined casting and now have a rotary table and my own dividing head. I have looked for the detents and couldn't find them. They consisted of a bracket screwed to the head stock in the same way the auto feed for the boring head is fitted.

Originally the detent was sprung but allowed the chuck to move a little caused I think by the tapper on the hole, so it was altered so it had to be screwed into the hole. For drilling and light milling I used a drill with a flexible drive mounted in a vice fitted to a vertical slide on the cross slide, it worked quite well.

Regards Tony.

 

[goldstar31]

I'm back from the Dordogne in France and am sort of getting back to workshops and putting the Sieg back into working order( or so I imagine!)
I was most intrigued at your use of what appears to something like Arnold Throp's boring head and star wheel to drive it. I don't have 'a Throp' but quite a selection of slides out of a miscellany of slides.
Probably, the vertical slide casting and motor mount from a intended Stent tool and cutter grinder or one of my two Potts drilling and grinding spindles would suffice.

As a diversion, my son has been giving me hints on how to use my newly acquired 'picture box' which has a better view finder for what is laughingly described as eyesight but is really more or less blind in one eye and definite degeneration in t'other.

But again, my thanks

Norm

 

[BaronJ]

Hi Tony, Guys,

After reading Tony's thread, I thought I'd quickly knock up a shellac chuck for myself. I had a bit of 55 mm round aluminium about 20 mm thick. face it off, turn it around and reduce the diameter a little and face that side. Turn it back round, centre pop the edge to indicate jaw 1, then with an engraving tool mark it across the face every 100/1000" (1/10"). Job done.

I have some button shellac so I will have a play with it.

Each ring is 1/10" inch in.

The centre pop mark indicating jaw 1. If you look carefully above you can just see the jaw mark.

Could have done with another 0.5 thou off to get rid of that file mark.

Thanks Guys.

 

[SteveT]

Hi Tony,
Very interesting video.
Excuse my ignorance but which type of Shellac do you use, what is the mix and do you know if the flakes are available in the UK
Regards,
Steve T

 

[BaronJ]

Hi Steve,

For our purposes the type of shellac isn't too important. I have some dark button shellac that I intend to try out.

Tony gave the name of the people that he got his from in his other post.
Here it is

The shellac I use comes from the horological suppliers cousinsuk.com it is in I think the consumables section.

 

[goldstar31]

I bought my shellac from Axminster Tools- if that helps

Norm

 

[Tony Bird]

Hi Steve,

Very interesting video. Excuse my ignorance but which type of Shellac do you use, what is the mix and do you know if the flakes are available in the UK.

Baron has already mentioned my supplier. I have only used stick shellac on my chucks which is what I used as an apprentice; but I don't see that other forms of shellac shouldn't work as well. There is an advantage in using clear shellac as you can see any impurities/debris left from previous use. If you do need to clean the face of the chuck heat it until the shellac melts and use a thin stiff card to scrap it off, unless the chuck gets really messy it isn't necessary to clean it in alcohol.

Regards Tony.

 

[SteveT]

Many thanks to all that responded.
I'm going to give the process a try and hopefully it will save me having to buy a magnetic chuck, and as a bonus it will work with ali.,
Regards
Steve T

 

[goldstar31]

Many thanks to all that responded.
I'm going to give the process a try and hopefully it will save me having to buy a magnetic chuck, and as a bonus it will work with ali.,
Regards
Steve T

If you find one which will stick aluminium- tell me

Norm

 

[dkwflight]

Hi
Has any one tried pine pitch or rosin?
It melts at a pretty high temp and may work OK.
Dennis

 

[Tony Bird]

Hi Norm,

If you find one which will stick aluminium- tell me.

The one I use does!

Regards Tony.

 

[goldstar31]

Yes, but He wanted a magnetic one. I got one- or should I say electromechanical one with a Mk1 Clarkson-- for all of £100.

LOL

N

 

[Cymro77]

Tony, thanks again for your instructional information, I always learn something from it. Keep up the good work. I have found some shellac sticks at the local Home depot - will try them out soon.

 

[BaronJ]

Hi Guys,

I don't know if I dare post these pictures

This is what happens when you let the work get too hot.

Fortunately no damage, other than to my pride. Oooah.
I thought I would test out my new chuck and make a brass spacer. 3 mm thick. bit of scrap.

And this is a piece of the dark button shellac that I used.

 

[goldstar31]

John
I'm a fully fed up member of the sub branch which uses hot glue guns! Moovit, moovit, moovit!

Best wishes

N

 

[BaronJ]

Hi Norman,

I only decided to face it off because the brass was slightly bowed.
Yes, a 1 thou skim ! No problem. I'd forgotten that the brass was still hot from cutting it round.
Wouldn't have happened with double sided tape...