Milling Vice Workholding

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
OK....basic question

Are you climb or conventional milling when this happens?

Gotta ask.

Dave
 
If the part shape and procedure allows it, the best way to hold the work is with a pair of Starret "Hold downs", they pull the work down tight and hold it flat against the the bottom of the vise (make sure the vise bottom is square to the mill table top), even in a cheap vise.

Try clamping directly onto the table. If the part is to small then it can be fastened to a false table (a piece of plate milled parallel) with solder, "Mitee Grip" paper or wedging clamps. I frequently solder the work to a plate and clamp it onto a rotary table or in a vise to eliminate the problem of clamps getting in the way. If the job requires a high level of accuracy, mill a plate in the vise, that way you know it is parallel with the table and fasten the work down with "Mitee Grip" paper, works great and eliminates most set up errors.

Work holding is an art in it's self and the vise isn't always the best method for the job, we just tend to go there without thinking about it.
 
Hi Ron
Looking at the pictures you have provided, It looks like the parallel you are using is placing the work above the centre of pressure of your vice thereby forcing the jaws to open at the top and clamp unevenly. i would be inclined to use a thinner parallel so the work sits lower and the pressure is better placed to provide clamping force.

Kind regards

Malcolm
 
Oz,I have exactly the same vise on my zx45 mill-drill,and it does all i require of it.But like someone mentioned,the handle is too short.Mine is at least twice as long.(doesn't that sound like bragging :big:)
One way to ensure your workpiece is sitting down properly is to fit a round rod,say3/16-5mm between the solid jaw and the work.There are grooves in in there to help align the rod.A little tap with a plastic or lead hammer also helps.No sledgehammer type whacking is required or desirable.
AS spacers I use bits of hss tool steel,when possible.
I also did remove the swiveling bottom part,as I very rarely use that feature.If doing critical work,indicate the vise to the longitudinal travel of the table,and you'll find it's good enough for g'mint work.
 

Steamer;

I was conventional milling, buwas new at it and probably was taking to big a cut.

Ron
 
Hi

That would do it, Malcoms comments or on the mark, but it should have been OK for a slitting saw.

Dave

 

Latest posts

Back
Top