Let's talk cutter grinders

[DaveS]

I have the dekel clone d bit grinder only problem I have is in the first set up step for any job put the white dot in the white dot window there is no white dot there is no window. Both Robin Renzetti and Stephan Gotteswinter have good vids on the deckel clone. The adapter to grind lathe tools is ordinary good for 25mm stock I have made up adapters to suit the adapter for drill sharpening is cumbersome but it works

hi Geo how do you start your set up i have the same problem on my grinder no window or dot and was wondering where to index before i start

 

[goldstar31]

hi Geo how do you start your set up i have the same problem on my grinder no window or dot and was wondering where to index before i start

I've tried to write a cohesive answer elsewhere and a[[reciate that most people find difficulty in maths especially when understand spheres and cones and cylinders. Faced with a Deckel clone.
So trying to break the construction of a D Bit is
Chuck the solid round cylinder in a collet and simply reduce the side- anf side to mike at say

1/2 Diameteer plus 0.002"
THen switch the grinding to a cutting nose of 7 degrees and possibly remove the non essential flank which doesn't but.

Other workers may differ but that iis one way

 

[DaveS]

i was just wondering where the red dot in the window set the orientation of the work head to the stops when in the 180 degree position after the d bit had been aligned with the set up tool and the flat vertical if that makes sense

 

[goldstar31]

I thought that I had given the old simple measurement when it all could have been done on a Columbus gauge, See Spaparey's the Amaturs Lathe book.
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After looking at a video by a crtain 'ClickSpring', I realised just how different my fumblong description was in comparison.

Sparey (and I) were creating a a flat surface whereas Clixkspring was creating what was/is an engraving cutter.
Again, George H Thomas writing in Model Engineers Workshop Manual ( and in his section on boring tools) shows some tools similar to that of Leaonard Sparey.

I suppose that it is a matter of choice. Neither is wrong.

What is interesting is that old Sparey has also modified an ordinary twist drill to create a flat bottomed surface.

It's all a BIG topic and hearking back to the humble homemade Quorn , it is possible to cut a hss or high carbon steel tool on it whereas the Deckel SO and its clone was actually designed specifically for a multitude of engraving citters in the engraving business.
However, using the method which I described will , if the large flat is ground FIRST does not need to use the azimuth rings for that operation.
However, I shudder to think that the front of the cuttingnose grinding PRECEDES the much simpler and larger ;flat!

Maybe you might mentiom in more detail your intentions

But I hope that this helps somewhat

Norman

 

[geo]

i was just wondering where the red dot in the window set the orientation of the work head to the stops when in the 180 degree position after the d bit had been aligned with the set up tool and the flat vertical if that makes sense

Dave get a copy of the dekel manual it’s easier to read I sacrificed mild steel off cuts until I got it right
i started with the basic centring instruction until I got it right made a mark and use zero as the index

 

[geo]

Dave if you go on to the shars site there is a reasonable explanation of how this type of index head works
i am now getting good results on cutters I haven’t bothered with drill sharpening or lathe tools