Lathe identification

[jixxerbill]

in addition to a 13x40 jet my local guy has a used lathe but not sure of make/quality.. Here is all the info thats on it
It looks to be a 13x40
Model is CZ300/1
Made in 2004
Chizhou household machine
made in china
says gap bed lathe on it and says geared head
wired for 220 single phase
its not been used very much from the looks of it and has a stand/bench
comes with 3 jaw and 2 faceplates, looks to be screw on as faceplates have Big internal threads

any info anyone might have would be appreciated. thanks... Bill

 

[trumpy81]

Bill, does it look anything like this one:
http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/advert/CZ300-1-Lathe-and-Accessories/56804/

or this:
http://www.sino-export.com/products/Driller/L/5.html

or this:
http://www.yourepeat.com/watch/?v=UwGLL7cMdHk&feature=youtube_gdata

 

[jixxerbill]

Its like the first one Andy. Are they any good ? Alsoi dont know what the exchange rate is but this one im looking at costs $3,500 American.

 

[n4zou]

I found a picture of a CZ300/1 and if it's the same one I have the same lathe with a different OEM brand name.
The Chinese use this basic design for all lathes of this type the secondary factories sell. They buy castings from the foundry like we buy engine casting kits.

If it's the same lathe you will be pleased with it. First of all if it is the same as the picture below of the lathe I have they are not being honest with you. It is not a gear head lathe and it does not have a removable gap bed. You did not post a picture of the CZ300/1 you are thinking about buying so the one you are looking at may have a gear head and a removable gap. Personally, I prefer a belt belt drive head and I don't really like a lathe with a removable gap as they tend to cause some inaccuracy (in Chinese produced lathes). Don't worry about pulling the spindle out to change the belt in the head as a standard 5/8" Power Twist link belt is listed in the manual for replacement. It has Timken taper roller bearing on the spindle with each running in an oil sump. Each spindle bearing sump has it's own oil level bulls eye. The spindle uses standard 2 1/4-8 threaded back plates. The Spindle also has an M-5 Morse taper. The tail stock has an M-3 taper. My lathe will cut both American and Metric threads if it comes with change gears for that. Be sure to check and make sure they are still with the lathe. There should also be an M-5 to M-3 Morse Taper adaptor with the lathe along with the change gears. The motor is reversible so you can leave the half nut engaged while threading. This is required when cutting metric threads.

The reason I like belt drive is for the safety factor belts provide. If you are using a parting blade to cut off a part and it hangs up (that happens to the best of us) the belt will slip or even break preventing damage to the lathe. Belts are cheap and easy to replace. The picture I posted is not my lathe. My lathe had a different OEM brand name.

 

[trumpy81]

Its like the first one Andy. Are they any good ? Alsoi dont know what the exchange rate is but this one im looking at costs $3,500 American.

For that kind of money Bill, I'd be looking at a new lathe from Grizzly or the like, unless it was a Hardinge or South Bend or the like.

Grizzly offer a 12x36 G4003G brand new for $3200.00 US. A lot of gunsmiths use this lathe and from all accounts it is a good lathe. Grizzly seem to have a fairly good reputation also. Might be worth a look unless you need a bigger lathe?

 

[jixxerbill]

trumpy81 thats what i was thinking! I checked into the 4003g and grizzly is sold out of them till middle of feburary. I really like the features and accesories that are with the 4003g. I think i will pass on the 300/1.. Thanks for all the input from everyone..Bill

 

[jim forsyth]

That picture looks exactly like my Grizzly 9249. It is a fairly rugged machine that I have had no problems with for over 10 years. My only complaint is that it has a noisey gear train at anything above back gear. And yes it is a gap bed.

 

[trumpy81]

trumpy81 thats what i was thinking! I checked into the 4003g and grizzly is sold out of them till middle of feburary. I really like the features and accesories that are with the 4003g. I think i will pass on the 300/1.. Thanks for all the input from everyone..Bill

Like they say, why buy someone else's problems ... lol

It's a shame Grizzly is out of stock ... but looking at the features the G4003G should be a nice lathe. I know there are some videos of it on YouTube, you might want to check 'em out.

Best of luck to you Bill, I hope Grizzly don't take eons to get one in for ya

 

[Gr8GuyInUSA]

I have a CZ300 lathe from China and I am looking for some help in a wiring problem I have. During moving of the lathe, it tipped over and some wires were pulled out of the main electrical box. I do not know what order they are to be reconnected, so I am looking for someone to send or post photos of their electrical box. For the right photos I will compensate the person for their efforts.

Thanks in advance.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

I have a CZ300 lathe from China and I am looking for some help in a wiring problem I have. During moving of the lathe, it tipped over and some wires were pulled out of the main electrical box. I do not know what order they are to be reconnected, so I am looking for someone to send or post photos of their electrical box. For the right photos I will compensate the person for their efforts.

Thanks in advance.

My sugestion would be that you post a picture of your box inside
then we can see if it matches ours

 

[canadianhorsepower]

I just purchasse one like this but with Busy Bee same as Grisly
awsome lathe
http://www.machines4u.com.au/view/advert/HARE-FORBES-AL-336D-DELUXE-Bench-Lathe/7044/

 

[canadianhorsepower]

http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-x-36-Gunsmithing-Lathe/G0750G

that's the model I just receive

 

[Gr8GuyInUSA]

Thanks "CanadianHorsepower".

In the photo of the electrical box, I am only concerned with the 4 sets of wires coming into the box (last photo) - they were all pulled out of the connector ends (with labels attached). So I used my best guess on the re-wiring, but no luck so far.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Can you post or Pm me a closer picture of this and tell me what is written
on the wire itself with the finest possible detail

 

[///]

So I used my best guess on the re-wiring, but no luck so far.

Do you mean you have applied power and attempted to run the lathe with wires connected as a "best guess" ?

 

[Gr8GuyInUSA]

Unfortunately, the wires coming into the box are labeled by myself. These labels correspond to the labels on the other end of the wires. only the connections on the bottom side of connection block are in question.

From the left, the 4 sets of wires are...
1) mains power coming in
2) wires to motor
3) wires to e-stop box
4) from directional wiring switches

The wires to motor (set 2) black wires, labeled left to right, V1, V2, Z1, Z2 (behind brown wire) are the original wiring labels. Everything to the right of those I labeled according to the other end of the wire.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

ok your V1 and v2 are the source power
z1 and z2 are for the motor direction

you can put v1 and v2 with the matching
as for the Z you can put z1 with z2 not knowing how the factory
wired the switch their is no way to tell at this time

If you start and it dosn't go in the proper direction invert the z wires only

good luck

 

[canadianhorsepower]

this link should help you

and the picture calls for your wire colors

http://www.conveyorsolutions.com/images/hytrolelectricalwiring105.pdf

 

[Shopguy]

Just an observation. There doesn't appear to be any strain relief or electrical box clamps where the wires pass into the electrical box. I would be concerned that in time vibration would wear through the insulation on the wires.
It's been my observation on my own Asian machines that the manufacturers are kind of lax when it comes to quality electrical wiring. My own lathe came years ago with a 110 volt plug on the cord and the motor and switch wired for 220, a a bit of research to get that and the push button control sorted.

 

[///]

Just an observation. There doesn't appear to be any strain relief or electrical box clamps where the wires pass into the electrical box. I would be concerned that in time vibration would wear through the insulation on the wires.

Absolutely. If you look closely at the white core at the left of the picture, the insulation has already been sliced thru and exposed the wire.
Cable glands are a must!!
If cable glands had been fitted as standard, the cables probably wouldn't have pulled out in the first place.