I also had to get the "fix" on the Nano clone when using Win 7 but it was built in to Win 10 and worked without further input.
Interesting ... and I can only imagine, frustrating. Thanks for this heads up - it may save me some time down the road if I encounter this problem!I tried it on at least 4 different boards , all cheap chinese nano clones .
All behaved thesame .
My uno however , wich is also a chinese clone with the exact same chip on it as the nano's
didn't have this issue at all . I wrote to the eeprom several times to test if I did something wrong .
It never failed .
The only thing different between the two boards is the bootloader . Most likely there's a conflict somewhere
as this software was written for and tested on an uno .
The nano's did completely lock up when trying to write to the eeprom , even the reset button wouldn't work .
I had to cycle power get them running again .
So If I were to persue this I would burn an uno bootloader on the nano and see if that makes a difference .
I'm quite convinced it will .
That's kinda what I was saying. Letting others know that the version of operating system they're running can affect their outcome.In my opinion that doesn't make sense .
The ch340 chip is basicly an usb to serial tranceiver . And like every usb device windows needs a driver for it .
Win7 doesn't have it so it has to be downloaded and installed separatly prior to the first use .
So it's true that the chinese clones with CH340 chip are not recognised at first by widows and /or the arduino gui .
But this goes for both the uno and the nano . Once I installed the ch340 driver they both worked but the nano did have the
eeprom issue and the uno didn't .
After reading this i remember again that that was about the explaination i had read when i was busy with grbl and the nano.I just would like to tell you all some things about Arduinos that might be interesting to you to know...
Regarding the communication, I mean USB to TTL conversion, there are (at least?) three chips to do that. They are the FT232RL by FTDI who was the developer of this technology, then the Atmega16U2 by Atmel and finally the Chinese CH340G. Prices are in the same order from high to low. There was a dispute some time ago the ended up FTDI making their driver incompatible with any other.
Anyway, what makes Arduinos cheaper was the CH340G.
I do not know certainly if Arduino.cc (Arduino authentic and original boards) is currently using FTDI chips in their board but I do know they are using the Atmega16U2.
There is a file in the Arduino IDE installation that contains the AVR cores for all the boards. This is what you use when you set the board to which you want to load your sketch (program).
Although the Arduinos UNO, Nano, Pro Mini, etc. use the same Atmega328P chip, if you look inside the core definition, they have different settings. It is all regarding the board design, if it use a crystal or a resonator and so on.
Digging inside the chip guts, there things called "fuses" that can be set in different ways developing different behaviors for the same chip.
When you burn the Bootloader it set these fuses as required in the AVR core definition BUT this is following the setting for an Arduino Original because you are using the Arduino IDE that is also an Original product.
So, if you are using, as an example, an Arduino Nano clone with a CH340G, you are setting all this things for an authentic Arduino Nano with an Atmega16U2 USB to TTL chipset. It is just there where the problems with the communication, memory, etc. may start.
There are also some bootloaders with differences between them. You have the bootloader (arduino original?), the old bootloader (?) and the Optiboot. So you must set the correct one when you are preparing the IDE to upload your program.
It is possible to set the fuses in any way you want (you must be very careful because you can turn your micro in a brick if you make a mistake doing this). To do this you will need a ICSP programmer (avrasp) and a software (Avrdude). Also it is possible to load your program to the microcontroller without any bootloader and you will be saving 2K for your sketch (the bootloader use 2K of the 32K available in the ATmega328P).
Finally, in my opinion, it would be better to spend a little more buying an original product or, at least, one that have the Atmega16U2 USB to TTL chip.
Hope this help a bit explaining from where the problems with this clone board come from.
Finally, in my opinion, it would be better to spend a little more buying an original product or, at least, one that have the Atmega16U2 USB to TTL chip.
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