Homemade vise wide and low

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I. Klemetti

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Inspired by this I made my own simplified version of a wide and low vise. It is basically three steel blocks with some holes. Very easy to make.

ilkka

DSCF8058p.jpg


DSCF8059p.jpg
 
Looks good and could not get more simpler.Next step up
from the one i made and next on the list.Well done thanks for sharing
Post some more details when you start to use it.How about fitting key/tenons to slide in the t slots and keep the jaws square to the table
 
OH Great! something else I need to put on the to do list....:wall:
 
Looks great
This last a life time

Dave
 
Looks good and could not get more simpler.Next step up
from the one i made and next on the list.Well done thanks for sharing
Post some more details when you start to use it.How about fitting key/tenons to slide in the t slots and keep the jaws square to the table

Tenons would be good on the moveable jaw and pusher plate, but on the fixed jaw may be better without to allow for out of square jobs. I repeat May Be.

Dave
The Emerald Isle
 
Tenon is only requ on the fixed jaw.Pusher plate is not necessary
and no on the moving jaw.I posted a similar vice here
Bazmak diary of a very useful vice,and intend to make another
more simpler,basically as yours.I have used it many times
and its very useful. Regards barry
 
Hi Ikka,

The standard milling vise will not hold long&wide&thin jobs. Clamp on the sides is waste of material and also having to trim off the sides.
One more ''Must Make Tool''

Thanks.
 
That's a great looking vise! I have a similar one about 2/3 done, but had to pull off that project to work on the motor home. My vise has tenons on the stationary block, will have two 1/2" slide rods from that to the moving jaw, along with 2 allen bolts to push the jaw, and the other jaw is just flat on the bottom with a flange at the back to bolt it down. Will send pictures to this thread when I get it done.
 
I'm not too sure how this works.
Is the middle block left loose and secured down onto the bed only after the work has been clamped between the jaws?
If so, does it tend to buckle up as the jaws are tightened onto the work?

Regards,
Alan C.
 
Here are my old tool as i am using in my homemade milling machine. Easy to set up more precision and hold the parts firmly. No more tilting jaws. :)

Skrustikke.jpg
 
I'm not too sure how this works.
Is the middle block left loose and secured down onto the bed only after the work has been clamped between the jaws?
If so, does it tend to buckle up as the jaws are tightened onto the work?

Regards,
Alan C.

Clamp the piece of work with 2 bolts or nuts and then tighten the moveable jaw with 2 bolts. Give the piece of work light tap with hammer to set the piece of work on place on table of milling machine and loose a bit of bolts on jaw and clamp firmly and retighten the bolts on jaw. Ready to use.
 
Yes its a combination of nip the jaws to the job,nip the jaw to the table etc ,etc
to get a good grip on the job and no lift to jaw.My first one works well
and now will make mark 2 nearer to your design with tenon to fixed jaw
 
as someone that screams, cries, and moans for more spindle to vise height, this is becoming more of a priority for me. Thanks for posting! I'm adding it to the list. Till now I've just been c-clamping some 123 blocks around my part then clamping them down to the table. This looks way more handy.
 
Thanks for clearing up the procedure Jens and Bazmak.
I'll certainly make one of these. I always have problems getting supplies of bright steel but I reckon I could use pieces of keysteel which is readily available for this.
Regards,
Alan C.
 

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