Henry Ford Engine - Compressed Air Model

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cfellows

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Here's another video of the Henry Ford engine. I fiddled with various things and got it to run a lot better. I changed out the slave valve spring for a stiffer one, replaced the cylindrical slave valve with a ball bearing that is slightly under-sized, drilled out the valve body to let more air through, and added a rubber o-ring to the piston. It now has a lot better speed range and runs on a lot less air.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCruRBWWxtk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCruRBWWxtk[/ame]

Chuck
 
:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: great engine Chuck :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow:


Regards Rob
 
COOL!!! And it does have a good sound to it.
 
chuck, great looking engine will you be using the o ring when you run this engine on gas??


chuck
 
Chuck, that looks great and sound great, love it, sounds better that the one that runs on gas, I have the plans for it but was thinking a little much for me for now, your is a better choice, thanks for the info and the clip, Lathe Nut
 
Thanks for all the comments.

Lathenut - The compressed air version is definitely simpler and more convenient to run (if you have a compressor).

Chuck - I do plan to use the o-ring in the IC model. The plan is to make it convertible from air to fuel by simply switching out the head and turning on the ignition.

Zee - I think excellent freewheeling is primarily due to the flywheel size compared to the bore. This flywheel is 7 1/4" and heavy. Normally an engine with a .65" bore would have a flywheel of 4" or so.

CMS - the sound is what I like best. Kind of has the sound of a big, old, lumbering single cylinder engine.

Chuck
 
Chuck, I do have an aircompressor, that would be a lot easier to build than the gas engine, was wondering could you post a close up of the valve chamber, or what is that made out of, thanks again for the great show, Lathe Nut
 
Lathe Nut, here's a cutaway drawing of the Head and Valve assembly.

HFValveAsm.png


The Threaded Brass Inlet barb was made up from two pieces. The original threaded cap that came with the brass plumbing tee soldered to a barb which was turned down from a 1/8" NPT female barb. I don't know what the thread type is on the cap, but it isn't NPT. It's something like 3/8 x 22 but definitely not 3/8 x 24. The thread from the valve assembly into the head is also 1/8" NPT. I have NPT taps for 1/8", 1/4", and 3/8". You could probably use standard threads or even solder if the head was made from brass. Don't really know what kind of brass plumbing tee this is, just one I found in the plumbing parts drawer.
 
Congrats on the successful completion of your build!!! :bow:

Sorry but my timing is a little off due to being absorbed in my own build.

Your engine has that wonderful sound that's becoming a trademark of your work.

-MB

 
Chuck, thanks for that info. there is still a lot to figure in building one like that one, your good and there was a lot of thinking in your mind going on, thanks again, Lathe Nut
 
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