grizzly lathe

[plumbman23]

hey everyone first post here ,just wondering if anyone has had experience with grizzly tools.I was looking at purchasing the G0602 10" x 22" Bench Top Metal Lathe from them.I'm having a hard time getting feed back on there stuff and wanted to know about the quality and accuracy plus the shipping cost from them.I live in eastern Canada so wondering if there shipping might become cost prohibitive.I plan on using this lathe also for work that would be the reason for the size if anyone has had any experience with the grizzly mini 7x12 lathe i would also love to hear the feedback thanks everyone.

 

[ShedBoy]

Try this site for alot of info and a review

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Setup/setup.htm

This site is a wealth of info for mini lathes. We don't have grizzly in Australia but can get the same machine with a different name and colour. They are all made in China and some are better built than others. From what I understand Grizzly has been around for a while and sold alot of machines. You will get plenty of answers. I am waiting on a similar size machine to arrive from China and it seem all these machines come in a nearly finished state which needs the rough edges taken off literally.

Brock

 

[kcmillin]

Hello and Welcome plumbman!

I have Both those machines.

The Mini lathe you are referring too is a great machine. It comes from many different distributors like Grizzly, Harbor Freight, I got mine from a Cummins Traveling tool store. I have been pleased with it and taught myself how to turn metal. It has a bunch of features, and with a few modifications (Which there are a lot of) you will have a very nice, and precise lathe.

The G0602 is also IMHO a great machine. I got mine second hand and cannot comment on shipping, but the quality of the machine is great, and is has a decent amount of weight too keep it rigid.

The choice you make should be based on what you are planning on building with the lathe. Most of what you see on this site can be done with the mini lathe, but if you plan on doing larger items a step up might be in order. If you are just getting started you must also remember the cost of tooling for the machine. The mini lathe will leave you a lot more meat on the bone to finish your meal, so to speak.

Kel

 

[gmac]

You might want to consider the Canadian equivalent from Busybee Tools;

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/METAL-LATHE-10IN.-X22IN.-WITH-DIGITAL-READOUT.html

King Tools also does the same model if I recall correctly, but likely to be more costly than BusyBee. Busybee also subsidizes the freight costs on heavy items.

Cheers
Garry

 

[steamer]

Welcome Plumbman!

Dave

 

[Tin Falcon]

I would have to look at the griz site to compare.
IIRC the 10 x 22 is a much heavier more capable machine. Shipping will be more and you will need some rigging to get into place on the bench

the little minis are decent machines shipping no problem I think ups heavy will handle it . the mini only weighs about 85 - 100 lbs. up side infinite variable speed. I started with I started with the mini lathe and then got a south-bend 9 x 36 or something it is the long bed I use the SB most of the time but still have and use the mini I have had ir for I am thinking 15 years and have had to replace a couple of switches on it . I did have to repair the control board due to a power sure but can not realy blame that on the manufacturer. Littlemachineshop. com has all the repair parts for the mini lathe .

The 10 x 22 is a much more capable lathe the motor has twice the power there are many more accessories included like face plate four jaw steady follow rest etc these are all extras on the mini. it has decent range of speeds and a qc gear box for threading as for shipping it would like be FOB muncy PA
I would say if you have the means to get the 10 x 22 off your truck and into your shopand up on a bench and it is in your budget go for it.
Tin

 

[Sshire]

Welcome!!
I have the G0602 and like it a lot.
The included chucks, steady and follow rests, etc are very nice (certainly not Bison quality but I've had no problems. I did replace the toolpost with a Phase II AXA. IMHO a necessity.
Tin: you mean I've been manually replacing change gears unnecessarily? Looked all over the lathe and can't find the QC gearbox. Please send location

The lathe is heavy (a good thing) but had to get a rigger to move it to the basement.
No problems but be prepared (as with pretty much all Chinese lathes) to strip it down and Simple Green everything. This turned out to be a plus as I now have a really good idea how everything works.

Best
Stan

 

[Tin Falcon]

Tin: you mean I've been manually replacing change gears unnecessarily? Looked all over the lathe and can't find the QC gearbox. Please send location

Steve you had me scared I thought I was giving bad info. So downloaded the manual as I am not accustomed to this lathe.

you mean I've been manually replacing change gears unnecessarily?

possibly not there are three setups on your change gears fine feed for machining, metric threading ,and sae threading you do have to swap gears to go from mode to mode chart to chart.
Page three of the manual shows the location of the threading dials. these operate the internal gear selection.

the QC gear box on most larger lathes is internal you will not see it but the knobs are there right in front of you,

Page 33.24. and 35 of the manual show how to set up and use various modes.


so the upside here is one set up in proper mode you just have to turn a couple of knobs to change thread or feed settings the down side is if you use the power feed and do a lot of threading you will still have to swap gears also it looks like speed changes are a bit of a pain. the mini you can change spindle speed on the fly. choices choises.
hope this helps and clarifies things

I did replace the tool post with a Phase II AXA. IMHO a necessity.

good advice I would agree.




Pllumman I would suggest you go to Littlemachinshop. com and download and read /browse the mini lathe manual and download the g602 manual from grizzly there are significant differences between the two machines it would be good to understand them before you buy and ask more questions if you need to.
tin

 

[plumbman23]

Thanks for all the info guys ,What really sold me was the fact that i went to the local china tool outlet here called princess auto and they had the mini on the shelf for 450$ new so i would say I'm gonna go with that for now and see how it goes.I'm sure ill get it running smoothly in no time and it should suffice for now.My only question now is what is the quality of the threads it produces?Will i need a tap and die set or are the capabilities of the machine of good quality. thanks for all the info
and Tin Falcon thanks for that info,I understand there are significant differences between the two lathes formost being that the g602 is a much more professional lathe.Also less gear changes and such and i would suspect probably much more precisely built with better tolerances and more attention to detail.thanks for the info tho other wise I wouldent have looked much at the mini's features

 

[Tin Falcon]

The trick to threading on the mini is turn the treading tool upside down run the spindle in reverse and thread towards the tail stock. and IMHO a Quick change tool post is an almost must first upgrade. also make a guard to keep the swarf out of the longitudinal feed gear box I also drilled a oil hole so i can oil said said gears.
Tin

 

[plumbman23]

Thanks alot for that info,Saved me lots of messing around trying to find out why it wouldent work properly lol

 

[Bentwings]

You might want to consider the Canadian equivalent from Busybee Tools;

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/METAL-LATHE-10IN.-X22IN.-WITH-DIGITAL-READOUT.html

King Tools also does the same model if I recall correctly, but likely to be more costly than BusyBee. Busybee also subsidizes the freight costs on heavy items.

Cheers
Garry

We have a 602 with the 120 volt three phase motor. This little lathe has serious power with this motor. Much more than the dc motor. We have the readout and tachometer. Currently working on the lead screw reverser tumbler. This will allow machining away from the chuck as well as left hand threads for the few times needed. The cutting away from the chuck rather than towards it is much safer. Especially if threading or cutting up to a shoulder. We have cut stainless steel and 413 with no issues. We have even machined the hex off some grade 8 bolts for a special project.

 

[Bentwings]

We have a 602 with the 120 volt three phase motor. This little lathe has serious power with this motor. Much more than the dc motor. We have the readout and tachometer. Currently working on the lead screw reverser tumbler. This will allow machining away from the chuck as well as left hand threads for the few times needed. The cutting away from the chuck rather than towards it is much safer. Especially if threading or cutting up to a shoulder. We have cut stainless steel and 413 with no issues. We have even machined the hex off some grade 8 bolts for a special project.

I’m also curious if any others have built and installed the lead screw reverse tumbler. I looked all over for something I could get for another mfg. lathe but could not find anything. I got extra gear shafts and bushings for the part that need modifying so we wouldn’t risk making a mistake on the original. The drive belts are a bit too short nut the article on making the tumbler has part numbers for slightly longer belts making gear changes easier. Have not ordered them yet however.

byron

 

[Bentwings]

ok so here is our problem . It started with the drive belt being really tight I asked my boys to get a little longer Belt as I thought there was excessive load on the rear bearing. Well, the belt didn’t happen, sure enough the rear bearing failed , growling .

So after a lot of cussing they finally got the bearing and spanned nut off and removed the spindle Getting the bearing off was really hard it was a super tight press fit . It finally came off but the spindle shaft was a mess . They knocked the races out ok then after a bunch more cussing they finally got the front bearing off again messing up more of the shaft . So a new spindle and bearings were ordered form grizzly. Well they pressed the front bearing on with nearly all of the 20 tons the press could deliver . Even with never seize it still marked the shaft then the rear bearings were just about as tight They presses them on and some how assembled the mess . I asked how they were going to adjust the ore load if the spanned nut couldn’t slide the rear bearing . Some how the next time I got out to the shop they said the spindle was running out bad . Sure enough it was . I had to get after them for not think ing how this worked. Apparently the front bearing was so tight it deformed the spindle shaft. The shaft is probably just mild steel not even 4130 or better . I said the whole thing was junk . Just remove it all and toss i in the scrap barrel . So another spindle was ordered and another set of bearings. They are just as bad I think there is .002” press fit on the front and about the same on the rear. I said just leave it and we will have another go at it when I come out again . They have about every polishing thing imaginable . So the plan will be to dig the last one out and temporarily install it with some ground out temporary bearings just so it can be rotated while polishing the thing so the front bearing can be installed with a light press fit then we can do the same with the rear bearing so it can be moved with the spanned nuts to prevent load the bearings like they need . We tried to find replacement bearings mostly to see if it was the bearings or shaft that was the wrong size . Well it’s a long way out to the shop and I don’t drive so I guess the lathe is down for a longer time. The new spindle runs pretty true but I just doesn’t fit the bearings It’s almost like the spindle was finished after it was installed in the machine . Anyway that’s where I’m at . I suppose we could send the new spindle out and have it ground or turned to fit the bearing properly but there aren’t many shops out in the small community there. I’m actually disappointed in this lathe as it is. The 3?phase motor is really powerful but the lead screw can’t be reversed so you can feed away from the chuck andvits got a completely different gear Train than because of the different motor we made the reverser pies described on the internet wasn’t even close to working
We have a 602 with the 120 volt three phase motor. This little lathe has serious power with this motor. Much more than the dc motor. We have the readout and tachometer. Currently working on the lead screw reverser tumbler. This will allow machining away from the chuck as well as left hand threads for the few times needed. The cutting away from the chuck rather than towards it is much safer. Especially if threading or cutting up to a shoulder. We have cut stainless steel and 413 with no issues. We have even machined the hex off some grade 8 bolts for a special project.

 

[kwoodhands]

Hello and Welcome plumbman!

I have Both those machines.

The Mini lathe you are referring too is a great machine. It comes from many different distributors like Grizzly, Harbor Freight, I got mine from a Cummins Traveling tool store. I have been pleased with it and taught myself how to turn metal. It has a bunch of features, and with a few modifications (Which there are a lot of) you will have a very nice, and precise lathe.

The G0602 is also IMHO a great machine. I got mine second hand and cannot comment on shipping, but the quality of the machine is great, and is has a decent amount of weight too keep it rigid.

The choice you make should be based on what you are planning on building with the lathe. Most of what you see on this site can be done with the mini lathe, but if you plan on doing larger items a step up might be in order. If you are just getting started you must also remember the cost of tooling for the machine. The mini lathe will leave you a lot more meat on the bone to finish your meal, so to speak.

Kel

Kel I also have the Cummings mini-lathe and the G0602. I bought the 10x22 years ago for $1025.00 plus $65.00 shipping. I made my own wood bench. Excellent machine, after many years the motor gave out and replaced it. Other than that no other problems. A quick change gear box is not available, change gears are supplied . If I have to single point threads I use the mini-lathe. I made a crank for it and works well. Mini-lathe at slow speeds loses power , hence the crank.
Also the 10x22 does not cut left hand threads. I made a banjo to hold a gear that when engaged will cut left hand threads. I added a cam lock to the tailstock. Same as the mini-lathe. Removed the camlock as it did not hold the tailstock as well as the original nut. Replaced the camlock with a higher nut made from hex rod and bored thru holes for a tommy bar. Actually a ratchet wrench works well as the tommy bar.
I replaced the tool holder with a QC holder.
When time to change transmission oil get a piece 3/8"x 6" pipe and a couple of fittings to extend the oil plug beyond the bench. First time i changed the oil I made a mess of it. Then got hold of a 3/8" long nipple and a couple of fittings. Makes changing oil much neater.
Comes with two belts, low speed and high speed. I only had the high speed belt on for the break in. I now only use the low speed belt . I keep the belt on the middle pulley. Cone pulley has 3 pulley positions.
Never needed to change positions of the belt.
I had not done single point threading when I bought the lathe. Only short coming is the QC gear box. Left hand threading is easily overcome, changing gears is a PITA. Thats why I use the mini-lathe to thread.
So far the 10x22 has done everything I need . I was pleasantly surprised that this lathe could turn tight tolerances.
I just remembered another minor problem. There is a bolt that tightens the carriage to the bed , used when facing. Keeps the carriage from moving. This bolt and the piece that is under the apron that holds the carriage tight , stripped threads. I tapped it for 1/4/ 28 and installed new cap bolt. This worked for several years. Last year I removed the bolt and the piece it threaded into. Stripped again. Thru the bolt and the piece out. Made a carriage stop same as the one in front of the carriage. This works better than the original
design. I had to slide the stop forward and backward at first. Then decided to fasten the rear carriage stop to the apron. I used JB Weld to hold the stop to the carriage. Been working fine for a year or so. I was going to bolt a it on , instead did a quick fix with the epoxy.
mike