Gamage lathe

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I just bought this vintage Gamage lathe, which I am installing in my workshop, and wanted to know if anybody can give me some idea on what might be missing? I have an electric motor ready to connect, but I think some parts on the tailstock are missing. Any thoughts welcome please?
lathe pic.jpg
 
ricuponwye,

If you have not seen this link, there is some information available:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/gamages
From eyeballing the illustrations there, it looks like your toolholder would need more parts to get a tool to center height. You may have some parts to add there.

Also, you seem to have only a chuck for the tailstock. Perhaps some different arrangement is needed to mount a center there.

Is your motor variable-speed? Is it one contemporary to the lathe or from another era?

I suppose "What you need" would be based on what you want to do with this lathe: Do you want to restore it as part of history or do you want to use it practically in your shop? If it will be a user, we can offer lots of ideas of things to add, change, or modify.

I will follow your adventure with this list if you post your work with it as a thread.

Have Fun.

--ShopShoe
 
Thanks ShopShoe,
Ideally I would like to get the thing going as a useful mini lathe.
I'll start with the tool holder, although it seems that the screwed fixings will need replacing as the threads are worn.
I do have a center which fits the tailstock.
Off to do some research.
 
Can anybody help here?
This is new territory for me!

The tool post on this lathe is not functionable.
I think the bolt threads are worn and the tool post is incomplete.

I really want to get this lathe working again.

Can anyone suggest where to go next please?

Ric
 
Take some good close-up photos of the parts so that we can see , then we could make suggestions or offer advice.
Try better lighting for your pics so that the points you need advice on can be clearly seen.
There is not much on those pre-war lathes that can't be fixed with a little help.
What other accesories do you have ?
Dan.
 
I just re-read your intoduction to the forum. I believe that this lathe might be a little limited, even as a place to start.

That said, you will learn some valuable things if you spend some time getting it going. AND: having more than one lathe may have some benefits.

Can you give us some idea of where your skills lie at the present time and what other tools and measuring equipment you have?
--

I would start by seeing if you can get the motor hooked up and the lathe running to see how smooth it can run. I would take it out of the metal pan and make a base to mount the lathe and the motor together.

On the tool post, I would see if you can replace the toolholder mounting bolt. I think it might actually be a stud. If your lathe is a certain vintage, it might be whitworth thread, the other options are imperial and metric.

Get some 1/4-inch toolbits and see if you can mount one so it is located at center height. If It is too low, you can probably make a riser block to get it to the right height for testing purposes.

On this lathe, if you want to try cutting metal, I suggest starting with brass or aluminum.

--ShopShoe
 
Hi ! again .
Can anybody help here?
This is new territory for me!


I really want to get this lathe working again.

Can anyone suggest where to go next please?

Ric
What's your purpose ? Do you want to completely restore it or just restore it like a " simple lathe " - for learning purposes ?
 
that lathe looks to me like a watchmaker's lathe, look them up to see how they differ from what you probably need. However, watchmakers with years of skill did and do still make watches using a lathe like that. You probably want a more conventional lathe - watchmaker's lathes are valuable, clean it CAREFULLY, see what you really have, this site might help Abwood Circular Dividing Machine
 
I just re-read your intoduction to the forum. I believe that this lathe might be a little limited, even as a place to start.

That said, you will learn some valuable things if you spend some time getting it going. AND: having more than one lathe may have some benefits.

Can you give us some idea of where your skills lie at the present time and what other tools and measuring equipment you have?
--

I would start by seeing if you can get the motor hooked up and the lathe running to see how smooth it can run. I would take it out of the metal pan and make a base to mount the lathe and the motor together.

On the tool post, I would see if you can replace the toolholder mounting bolt. I think it might actually be a stud. If your lathe is a certain vintage, it might be whitworth thread, the other options are imperial and metric.

Get some 1/4-inch toolbits and see if you can mount one so it is located at center height. If It is too low, you can probably make a riser block to get it to the right height for testing purposes.

On this lathe, if you want to try cutting metal, I suggest starting with brass or aluminum.

--ShopShoe
What a nice, friendly forum this is!
Thanks so much for your helpful reply.

This is my first metal lathe EVER, although I have used a wood lathe for some years.

My single-speed motor arrives this week, and I'll mount them both directly on my ever-so-solid small hardwood workbench and run it up.
The chuck and headstock bearings seem to be in perfect condition, with no play.

I have removed the tool holder stud (I assume that a stud is a double-ended threaded bar with no head on it?}

My biggest anxiety at this point is how to construct the tool post cross slide and get it solid and safe.
 

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Take some good close-up photos of the parts so that we can see , then we could make suggestions or offer advice.
Try better lighting for your pics so that the points you need advice on can be clearly seen.
There is not much on those pre-war lathes that can't be fixed with a little help.
What other accesories do you have ?
Dan.
 
Thanks Abbey.
I'll dismantle the tool post and clean it up and take some pictures and post them this week.

The headstock and chuck seems solid with no play in it. When I have mounted everything I'll give it a run and see...
 
that lathe looks to me like a watchmaker's lathe, look them up to see how they differ from what you probably need. However, watchmakers with years of skill did and do still make watches using a lathe like that. You probably want a more conventional lathe - watchmaker's lathes are valuable, clean it CAREFULLY, see what you really have, this site might help Abwood Circular Dividing Machine
Thanks William. I bought this lathe to use for my clock repairs retirement business, so that's good to know. I want to get it running to make small brass parts for clocks, and as an introduction to learning more about metal turning.
 
Hi ! again .

What's your purpose ? Do you want to completely restore it or just restore it like a " simple lathe " - for learning purposes ?
Hi min. I bought this lathe to use for my clock repairs retirement business, so that's good to know. I want to get it running to make small brass parts for clocks, and as an introduction to learning more about metal turning.
 
This is my first metal lathe EVER, although I have used a wood lathe for some years.

My single-speed motor arrives this week, and I'll mount them both directly on my ever-so-solid small hardwood workbench and run it up.
The chuck and headstock bearings seem to be in perfect condition, with no play.

I have removed the tool holder stud (I assume that a stud is a double-ended threaded bar with no head on it?}

My biggest anxiety at this point is how to construct the tool post cross slide and get it solid and safe.
Hi, I live about 20 miles upriver from you 😊 and have a well equiped workshop, if you don't have any other help closer to you your welcome to come over and we'll get your lathe up and working.

Roger
 
Hi, I live about 20 miles upriver from you 😊 and have a well equiped workshop, if you don't have any other help closer to you your welcome to come over and we'll get your lathe up and working.

Roger
That is an amazing offer, Roger. Thanks...
If you send me your details I'll come and visit with my bits 'n' pieces! [email protected] (Ric)
 
Your lathe is an abbreviated copy of a Ross & Alexander. It lacks a backgear, or screwcutting capabilities. Look on lathes.co.uk for their "RandA" machine. Gamages originally bought these for resale after grinding the maker's name off the front of the bed.

You must be careful when adjusting the headstock. Machines of this type were notorious for cracked headstock castings, 'cos C.I. will only flex so much before it simply breaks.

My first suggestion would be the addition of graduated dials, and some means of varying the spindle speed. You seem to have your toolpost in hand; time to start cutting shims from tin cans for packing the tool to height- that's how it was traditionally done.

I did have an R & A lathe, backgear missing, no changewheels, and one speed (900 rpm.) Not knowing what one cannot do can sometimes be quite handy, and I completed my first casting set using the lathe; a Stuart 10V, in 1993. Please don't ask how the hell I did it!

Afterward, I had a Drummond "M" type fall in my lap, and they've been good companions for over twenty five years; heavier built than the Myfords which many salivate over, and pay silly money for.

Andrew UK
 
Hi Andrew and thanks for all that detailed info.
I would like to not crack the headstock casting, so gently gently...

I am assuming that copper, aluminium and brass billets would be fine on this, but steel is not an option as the headstock is too fragile? Is this right?

Ric
 
Hi !
Hi min. I bought this lathe to use for my clock repairs retirement business, , so that's good to know. I want to get it running to make small brass parts for clocks
I cannot give my opinion on this purpose .


and as an introduction to learning more about metal turning.
My Opinion, Check Spindle: if it's ok and
If your motor has a speed control that is fine, if not, you need to add a pulley to slow down when needed (or you can combine the two).
Check the accuracy of the lathe - relative - not necessarily 0.0000 mm.
.....
Make a new thread (or in this thread) about restoring this lathe
At each step you will get a lot of help on this forum
With clock I don't know, but with some model engine it is possible !
 
Mine was able to do steel and cast iron OK, as long as the cuts were relatively small. 900 rpm is quite a clip, and a range of speeds would have helped with the chatter. The headstock isn't "weak", but it has the mandrel running directly in it. Mine was errrr... Well used, and the limited adjustment had been exceeded- the casting had already been repaired once, and the second broke in my ownership. The lathe had just done too much work in its former life.

I did work miracles with the thing, but as I wrote, the "M"s started coming along. It was my Dad's purchase and he sold it to some fellow who wanted it for nostalgia, sans chuck.

Fact of the matter is that a skilled turner could acheive a bearing fit on a pole lathe, but why do that when you've got a Colchester/ Hardinge/ Boxford to hand? Needs must when the Devil drives.

-Andrew UK
 

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