For a second build: compression Ignition

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dmartine1

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On my second build, I wanted to get a little further and gave it a try at a compression ignition.

This one gave me my first experience at home anodyzing ... quite an experience in itself.

Unfortunately, I never had the guts to fire it up. After all it was only my sencond engine and wanted to surf on the beginners luck a little longer!

http://www.floridaame.org/GalleryPages/g1V0314.htm

This was built from plans bought on the net which I must admit, were well drawn for a beginner machinist.

Quite often, plans from "experts" are a little more difficult to follow.

Have fun.
 
Nice build, good looking engine, and...RED! I can't get a part RED anodized for anything... I've tried both Caswell's and Rit dyes.
 
Nice engine, bet it would run just as good as it looks.
 
Vernon said:
Nice build, good looking engine, and...RED! I can't get a part RED anodized for anything... I've tried both Caswell's and Rit dyes.

This was done with Rit dye and took a few tries before dipping the real parts. What I found out is that most of us probably use car battery chargers and are dealing with very small parts. This leads to having a very very small current and thus requires the part to "bath" for a long long time.

When I anodyzd those parts, I did hang all of them in one setup and alos hooked up a multimeter in the way to get an idea of the current so I could calculate time more precisely.

Once you get a good layer of ceramic, dyeing is just an extra step but if you don`t have enough thickness, then it starts to blurr and be ugly. I also noticed that the "age" of the acid seems to have a fair impact on the results. I anodyzed a part lately for my dad and it did not come out with as good results as I wished. Fortunately it was natural color so polishing took care of it.

The purple parts were done in a brand new bath and new acid fill.

Perhaps this will help.
Denis
 
x2 on the great looks and running. Very well executed, fire that sucker up and you'll never look back, or stop smiling ;D

BC1
Jim
 
dmartine1 said:
This was done with Rit dye and took a few tries before dipping the real parts. What I found out is that most of us probably use car battery chargers and are dealing with very small parts. This leads to having a very very small current and thus requires the part to "bath" for a long long time.
When I anodyzd those parts, I did hang all of them in one setup and alos hooked up a multimeter in the way to get an idea of the current so I could calculate time more precisely.
Once you get a good layer of ceramic, dyeing is just an extra step but if you don`t have enough thickness, then it starts to blurr and be ugly. I also noticed that the "age" of the acid seems to have a fair impact on the results. I anodyzed a part lately for my dad and it did not come out with as good results as I wished. Fortunately it was natural color so polishing took care of it.
The purple parts were done in a brand new bath and new acid fill.

Thanks for the tips. Oh yeah, I guess that IS purple, not red. Oops. ;D
 
I have gotten red but the bath has to be almost cold, the rit dye has to be hot and I dont use nickel acetate to seal I use boiling water. For the red I had to pour dye in the boiling water with the part or it turns out pink.
Here is a part of a RC truck axle I built.
-B-


DSC02087.JPG


DSC02087.JPG
 
Hey Dmartine1 Sorry but I had trouble viewing your pictures I was interested cause I want to do some anodizing but don't totally understand stand how it is done could do a write up on how it is done and oh by the way welcome to the group Cliff.
 
Hi Cliff, anodyzing can be a fairly simple process if you want or rather very expensive one if you buy all the chemicals.

The « El Cheapo » in me brought me to give it a try with a very basic setup.

8 $ 10 x 16 x 8 RubberMaid plastic bin with lid from Walmart
5 $ worth of BRAND NEW car battery acid from an industrial battery dealer.
Be prepared to insist and explain what your intents are!
4 $ for a gallon of Distilled water (very important)
0 $ Dad's car battery charger
4 $ ALCAN aluminum foil
1/8 " aluminum bare wire

HEAVY DUTY rubber gloves, safety goggles, plastic ware AND 1# of spare baking soda to neutralize any spill of acid

You can have a look at these two web pages, the first being very simple and the second a good example of how to spend hundred bucks in chemicals ... but get consistent results.

http://www.shadowguarddev.com/alex/anodizing/

http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html

This should give you an idea. Remember, car battery charger are constant Voltage whereas calculations involves CURRENT ! Keep in mind that we are dealing with very small parts so high resistance and very small current flow thus long times.

I hope this helps
Denis
 
Thanks Denis for the information the first web site makes it seem some what simple Cliff
 

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