electric motor wiring

[xtal]

I have an old GE motor that I would like to use, but cannot figure how to wire it.
There are 8 leads 2 black on the side. 6 on back of motor
I measured and this is what I have come up with.

side - black wire 1 -> 10.2 ohm winding -> green from back of motor [ fbom]
side - black wire 2 -> centrifical sw -> 0.1 ohm winding -> white fbom

fbom - black -> 0.1 ohm winding -> black fbom
fbom - red -> 2.8 ohm winding -> blue fbom
The 10.2 ohm is really throwing me for a loop...:fan:

GE 5KC45DR171AS 1/3 HP 110 Volt 60 Hz 6.2 Amp
unable to find any info,, thx in advance for any help rendered..

 

[Nerdz]

Sounds like it could be a brushless or a stepper motor. What did it come out of? 8 wire stepper motors have a 2 wires per coil, so 8 wires total, 4 coils.

Also green is usually ground.

 

[BaronJ]

Sounds like it could be a brushless or a stepper motor. What did it come out of? 8 wire stepper motors have a 2 wires per coil, so 8 wires total, 4 coils.

Also green is usually ground.

If its got a centrifugal switch then it aint a stepper motor ! More likely a capacitor start/run asyncronous motor. Maybe someone removed the capacitor. The black wires most likely were connected to it.

 

[xtal]

its definitely an induction motor. about 40+ years old , I removed it from a washing machine [ Norge I think ] in the late 70's.

I was thinking the cap/caps would be connected to the red - blue - other ?

 

[BaronJ]

If it came from a washing machine then it would have been reversible and had a spin facility. The black wires would almost certainly have been for the capacitor since it was most likely attached to the side of the motor. The other wires would have been for the forward, reverse and spin functions.

Your issue now is to find out what the capacitor value was and which wires are for which function. If its any help swapping the wires on the run winding would cause the motor to run the other way. The spin winding most likely would spin the motor anti clockwise looking at the drive end.

HTH.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Hi beeing a KC type means its a capacitor start
probably the 2 wires on the side a picture or a few would certainly help
here are a few pics that could help

 

[ShopShoe]

"If it came from a washing machine then it would have been reversible and had a spin facility."

If this motor is really old, that may not be true. Old (1950s - 60s - 70s) washing machines (In the US) more likely used a simpler motor and an elaborate transmission to provide the speeds and direction changes. Cams and levers and solenoids were used to shift gears.

 

[BaronJ]

"If it came from a washing machine then it would have been reversible and had a spin facility."

If this motor is really old, that may not be true. Old (1950s - 60s - 70s) washing machines (In the US) more likely used a simpler motor and an elaborate transmission to provide the speeds and direction changes. Cams and levers and solenoids were used to shift gears.

I know that some washing machines as recently as 10 or 15 years ago particularly imports to the UK had variable speed mechanisms, often a spring loaded pair of cones that would squeeze a belt so that it rode up and increased the speed but it relied upon the motor speed increasing as well. All of the ones that I know off were able to reverse the motor direction to create the tumble action.

The top loader machines used a gearbox and reciprocating arm to activate the washing action. A solenoid was used to activate a clutch and the motor speed increased to enable spin.

Later electronically controlled universal motors were introduced. Mechanical switches and timers were used to control the motor direction and speed. I believe that Hoover and Hotpoint front loading machines were the first to introduce these, sometime in the early to mid seventies if I recall.

The motors from these front loading washing machines are Ideally suited for lathe and mill conversions, commonly producing up to 2+ HP. I would suggest that they could be a better bet than the much sought after DC treadmill motors. Certainly they are better ventilated and should be more reliable.

 

[xtal]

Here are some pictures of motor

 

[xtal]

here is what I have measured

 

[xtal]

If I connect 120 vac to the red / blue and hand spin the shaft the motor will run....

It did start a couple of times with 65uf cap from L1 to red & side black and L2 to blue & white
but it doesn't usually start..

also the 2 black wire that com from end of motor do not connect to the end plate - ie they feed into the windings

 

[stevehuckss396]

The 2 black wires is probibly where the start capacitor would be hooked to. The switch would open to disconnect the cap after the motor starts.

 

[xtal]

L1 to red & side Black L2 to blue and Green starts with ccw rotation

L1 to red & green L2 to blue & side black starts with cw rotation

so what are the 2 0.1 ohm windings and centrfical switch for ?????

 

[xtal]

looks like I can put a 5uf to 80 uf cap between the black [ side wires ] then connect the
white wire to where the green goes and connect source to the 10.8 ohm black sied wire -- all appears ok

Anybody have any idea what cap value I should use... ?
Any ideas what the other 0.1 ohm winding is [ the 2 black wires that come out the end plate ] ?

 

[stevehuckss396]

so what are the 2 0.1 ohm windings and centrfical switch for ?????

Thats where the start cap hooks up. The switch disconnects the cap after the motor starts.

 

[xtal]

There are 2 0.1 ohm winding,, the switch is on 1 side black -> white
The other 0.1 has no switch

 

[xtal]

I'm pulling too much current 16.8 amps with the 10.8 ohm winding connected, so I would assume it needs to drop out of circuit . Normal draw should be around 6 amps.
I obviously do not understand how this motor works . I thought there had to 2 windings
energized, but this will run with the red/blue 2.8 ohm winding energized [ with hand start ]...

 

[gus]

Hi beeing a KC type means its a capacitor start
probably the 2 wires on the side a picture or a few would certainly help
here are a few pics that could help

Hi Luc,

Thanks for this motor circuit diagram. I lost a very expensive handbook on motors and motor controls,ac and dc.
Might mess around rewind existing bench drill motor for tapping with reversible
rotation to retract tap.
A reversible tapping attachment cost a bomb and to messy for two three tapping holes.

 

[BaronJ]

I'm pulling too much current 16.8 amps with the 10.8 ohm winding connected, so I would assume it needs to drop out of circuit . Normal draw should be around 6 amps.
I obviously do not understand how this motor works . I thought there had to 2 windings
energized, but this will run with the red/blue 2.8 ohm winding energized [ with hand start ]...

Hi Xtal, Seasons Greetings.

These motors do require two windings to start and run. Some motors have two capacitors some only one. The centrifugal switch is there only to disconnect one winding. That winding may or may not have a capacitor in series with it. Some motors have both a centrifugal switched winding and a capacitor fed winding that is not switched. Since this motor came from a washing machine it will have wires brought out that will allow it to be reversed and I suspect that one winding will cause the motor to run at a higher speed. This is to allow for the spin function.

The two black wires that you refer to as coming out of the side are most likely the ones that have a capacitor attached to them. One of the black wires almost certainly will connect to the centrifugal switch. The other should go to one of the windings. One of the wires may be common to two or more windings. One pair of wires might only be connected to one winding.

Trace out the connections and draw a sketch that you can post here along with the values. I've tried with the information you have given but it makes little sense.

Without actually having the motor in my hands to examine it is very very difficult to make accurate guesses as to which wire does what. Though from reading your comments I think you could be on the right track.

 

[xtal]

Baron

post #10 shows what I have measured / diagramed form the motor......

I have put a cap across the 2 side black wires which essentially puts a 10.8 ohm winding in series with the cap and in series with another 0.1 ohm winding. I then connected the other end of windings to L1 / L2 along
with red / blue..Motor starts ok and maintains about 5 A which is about right for 1/4 hp motor,,, I guess I'll have to punt on the other 0.1 ohm winding