Displacement Lubricator Question

[JimDobson]

Hi all,

I'm making a simple non-adjustable displacement lubricator and would like to ask what size hole should I drill for the internal pipe that the oil will actually go into.

To big and I would envisage that the oil in the lubricator would empty to fast and to small it wouldn't be enough of a flow.

Any advice much appreciated.

It's just for a small steam engine around a Stuart V10 size.

Thanks.

 

[Charles Lamont]

KN Harris (Model Stationary and Marine Steam Engines) recommends an No 70 drill (0.028", 0.71mm) for a small lubricator. Keep it close to the engine so it is not too cold. And it is probably unnecessary to remind you it won't work on air.

 

[Blogwitch]

Hi Jim, here are a few displacement lubricators I built for people on the 'Mamod Unofficial Site'.

As can be seen, there are basically two types, straight through and offset, both work in the same way and both are as good as each other.
I personally, unlike Charles, don't have the lubricator too close, it requires the chamber to stay rather cool to work with any sort of efficiency.

When these 3 were installed and up and running, they all worked perfectly. For a larger engine I would use the 1mm shown, just to ensure the engine doesn't get starved of oil. These ones shown were for up to 4 cylinders of about 3/8" diameter each. Those Mamod guys just join them together, hopefully to get more power, but the opposite happens, their boilers can't keep up with the number of cylinders.

Anyway, here are a few pics and drawings to give you some idea.

The three I made.

The two different types

The basic parts.

Getting ready to silver solder.

Showing assembly with solder rings in place.

A little bit of flux around the rings, a bit of heat and perfect joints made, with just a couple of extra joints to do.

My basic drawings.

I am not expecting you to follow these plans, I just wanted to basically show how they were made for people who are hoping to get into steam in the future.

They can be made almost any shape or size. The hole in the pipe can be critical, and what Charles has said could be used for a smallish unit, but I always tended to stick with 1mm, it is always better to over lube rather than under.


John

 

[JimDobson]

Thank you so very much guys for all the help and advice.

John, so glad that I now know you. I have read and seen a lot of your work on the Mamod forum and it was your lubricator(s) that you made for John (Mark-One) that has sown the seed in my mind to make one or more for myself.

Those plans are absolutely terrific and thank you very much.

If I get stuck, do you mind if I give you a yell?

 

[Blogwitch]

No problems Jim, anytime.
BTW, just adjust the length to about double for the larger engine and use a syringe to empty out the water from the bottom. You can put a drain in the bottom for end of day draining, but I didn't usually, just sucked it out.

John

 

[tornitore45]

Me think the hole is not the controlling factor, rather the volume and cooling speed of the chamber on top.
The amount of oil depends on the condensed water volume, which depends from the top chamber. It is a cyclical thing, steam, condensation, water drop, oil rises.
once the oil rises it got to go through the hole.
The Tee Type need a Venturi to suck the oil out or a slanted pipe.

 

[Blogwitch]

"The Tee Type need a Venturi to suck the oil out or a slanted pipe."

I can quite catagorically state, NO venturies or sloping pipes are required to get oil from the lubricator to the engine on the offset type.

I have made lots of displacement lubricators over many years, and have yet to see myself or anyone else requiring what you have stated, or any other fancy whatnots or gizzmos as a matter of fact.

Just make it, install it, and it works.

 

[JimDobson]

Made some more and they are working brilliantly. Just wanted to say again a big thanks John

 

[Blogwitch]

I am really glad the info I supplied helped with your project.

Invoice and bill to follow

John