I may have posted this before but the thread on MT collets in a mill brought it to mind.
If you put the standard coarse thread on the collet end of the drawbar and a fine thread at the top end, you can achieve high pull in power with less energy expended and when is is time to remove the collet, just turn the drawbar the opposite way and it pushes the collet out. No hammering and beating the bearings is necessary.
My collets use 3/8" X 16 TPI drawbar and I was able to thread the inside of the spindle with 7/16" X 20 TPI. If the ID is not compatible for this, you may be able to add an auxiliary nut to the top of the spindle with a threaded ID.
I put abput 2" of fine thread at the top of the drawbar and screw it into the spindle about 1". I then screw the collet onto the other end, finger tight, and then tighten the drawbar Do not over tighten because the pull in force is a function of the difference between the thread pitches. To remove the collet, unscrew the drawbar until the collet pops loose and unscrew the collet with your fingers.
If you put the standard coarse thread on the collet end of the drawbar and a fine thread at the top end, you can achieve high pull in power with less energy expended and when is is time to remove the collet, just turn the drawbar the opposite way and it pushes the collet out. No hammering and beating the bearings is necessary.
My collets use 3/8" X 16 TPI drawbar and I was able to thread the inside of the spindle with 7/16" X 20 TPI. If the ID is not compatible for this, you may be able to add an auxiliary nut to the top of the spindle with a threaded ID.
I put abput 2" of fine thread at the top of the drawbar and screw it into the spindle about 1". I then screw the collet onto the other end, finger tight, and then tighten the drawbar Do not over tighten because the pull in force is a function of the difference between the thread pitches. To remove the collet, unscrew the drawbar until the collet pops loose and unscrew the collet with your fingers.