Can I use graphite for flame licker piston(s)?

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MikeyJwalking

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I have heard that graphite is suitable to use for a piston in a flame licker. The Poppin engine is the engine I had in mind for this, as my poppin uses graphite powder already. The "Blazer" is the other engine I would like to try this..
Has anyone done this? I am curious about how long it would last..
This is my first thread/question on this site.
 
Graphite works fine in a Poppin. You have to have a very good smooth finish on the cylinder to keep wear down as the graphite is soft a wears easily.
Gail in NM
 
Graphite works well on Poppin and Blazer .The cylinder finish needs to be good as Gail mentions
I used to use graphite on most of my Stirling and flame gulpers but now have gone back to a good grade of cast iron or at a pinch EN1A PB for the pistons
One of my best runners now nearly 20 years old and has ran for many hours is the large Duclos flame gulper that has a bronze piston in an alloy cylinder not what you would think as a good combination and Blazer now has a bronze piston fitted and seems to run better for some reason.Graphite is a little messy to machine
cheers
frazer
 
Hi

When i built my Poppin I used cast iron for both the cylinder and piston. I also enlarged the design by 20% as I thought the original was a bit small. It runs great. Cast iron home made flywheels made using the Phil Duclos articles to make it look a bit different.

regards

Steve
706011.jpg
 
Steve,
I have never built a flame eater before, but I intend to build one in the near future. If you use a cast iron cylinder and piston do you run it dry, or is any type of cylinder lubricant used? I see you use a cylinder lubricator, but I don't see any oil in it. How close do you fit the piston to the cylinder?

Jeff
 
For Poppin I use a very light cycle oil or sewing machine oil.It does get burnt and causes gumming but is easily cleaned out with a bit of meths
For Blazer I used powdered graphite or simply rub the piston on a 2B pencil
The piston fit needs to very close it should slowly fall through when dry no lube and if one end of the cylinder is blanked it should not fall through for several mins or if you pull on the piston assy it should snap back up the bore
Have a look on Jan Ridders site under trouble shooting he has a good little video showing a test on a cylinder/piston fit
http://www.ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_overzicht_happermodellen/happeroverzicht_frameset.htm
The English option is top left
 
Hi Jeff

The piston is lubricated using the oiler. It was made from a ballpoint pen body. I just fill it up with sewing machine oil. I made the cylinder, piston and flywheels all from continuous cast iron bar sold by the inch. It is nice to machine but dirty and it goes everywhere. Make the cylinder first and then make the piston to fit. The piston was a sliding fit that i could push with my finger but it would not fall out if held vertical. If you dont get the piston fit right it is not a hard job to make another and you still have the option of using graphite. I have got some graphite stick but didn't need it for this. Better picture below

regards

Steve
706048.jpg
 
Steve, this is a beautiful engine. Great attention to detail. My poppin currently has a brass sleeve for the cylinder, and a brass piston..
I am what you would call a rookie, or novice at this.. I had thought that graphite powder was the way to go. After seeing the engines made by the people in this forum, I now think I made a mistake.. From seeing videos, it seems the oil lubricated engines are more reliable, easier to start, and just much smoother running overall.. I still have a lot to learn
 
Steve,
I have never built a flame eater before, but I intend to build one in the near future. If you use a cast iron cylinder and piston do you run it dry, or is any type of cylinder lubricant used? I see you use a cylinder lubricator, but I don't see any oil in it. How close do you fit the piston to the cylinder?

Jeff
If the cylinder/piston is not oil lubricated.. Mostly handmade ones use oil. Otherwise you NEED to use graphite powder. I have a bottle of the powder, and a pencil helps more than you would think.. When I started with flame lickers, I was not given this info. Any flame licker, especially the ones that use graphite. The engine needs to be pre heated. If not as soon as you light it, it starts to build condensation inside, and outside of the engine. I actually use a propane torch to pre heat an engine, it takes 20 seconds. And PROMISES an easy start. Hope this helps. Mikw
 
Hi Jeff

The piston is lubricated using the oiler. It was made from a ballpoint pen body. I just fill it up with sewing machine oil. I made the cylinder, piston and flywheels all from continuous cast iron bar sold by the inch. It is nice to machine but dirty and it goes everywhere. Make the cylinder first and then make the piston to fit. The piston was a sliding fit that i could push with my finger but it would not fall out if held vertical. If you dont get the piston fit right it is not a hard job to make another and you still have the option of using graphite. I have got some graphite stick but didn't need it for this. Better picture below

regards

Steve
706048.jpg
Steve, your Poppin is amazing looking...
 
For Poppin I use a very light cycle oil or sewing machine oil.It does get burnt and causes gumming but is easily cleaned out with a bit of meths
For Blazer I used powdered graphite or simply rub the piston on a 2B pencil
The piston fit needs to very close it should slowly fall through when dry no lube and if one end of the cylinder is blanked it should not fall through for several mins or if you pull on the piston assy it should snap back up the bore
Have a look on Jan Ridders site under trouble shooting he has a good little video showing a test on a cylinder/piston fit
http://www.ridders.nu/Webpaginas/pagina_overzicht_happermodellen/happeroverzicht_frameset.htm
The English option is top left
I am curious, still being novice. I have a brass piston, and brass sleeve. I am using graphite powder to lubricate it, at the time I thought it was my only choice. Would it be possible to stop using the powder, clean it out, and switch to oil? Most "Poppin's" run much faster than mine does, I think this is why. It runs around 400 rpm.
 
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