Another Internal Combustion Engine

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Thank you Michael.

Helical gears installed.
I turned the cam shaft supports over 180 degrees and drilled and taped for new holes. The driven gear is slightly larger than the original so I had to space the supports out about 0.125. The cam shaft was also replaced with a longer one.
IMG_4232.JPG

I was able to move the flywheel in to where it should be since the drive gear is centered over the driven gear and not off to the side it gave me more room.
IMG_4235.JPG

The clapper bar was moved down about an inch and the turn buckle was lengthen to fit.
IMG_4233.JPG

Comparison video


And now the final video.



I want to thank everyone who left comments and likes along the way as it is appreciated.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Well Done!

I really like watching this one run.

Not only can I see the flyballs working on the governor, but I think I can see a spark jumping the contacts. And definite hit and miss action to see and hear as well.

The paint and different materials really look nice.

Thank You for posting.

--ShopShoe
 
Wow, just Wow ! I always understood the theory that helical gears run quieter but your video really drives the point home. That is one of the nicest running hit/miss engines I have seen. Most model hit/miss engines do not have a very pronounced hit miss action like the full sized ones do but yours is obviously a exception.

My only wish is that you had plans for this and some of your other engines, I would love to build one just like this one. A hit/miss is something I plan on before long.

A couple questions..... I am interested in getting a drag knife for my mill. I looked at the pics of yours but couldn't quite read the brand name. Would appreciate that info. Next, I am very curious what type of cnc mill you have, I looked at pics posted but couldn't tell. Thanks !
 
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I really like watching this one run.
Thank you ShopShoe



A couple questions..... I am interested in getting a drag knife for my mill.
Donek Tools is the brand name of the cutter.

My mill is a RF31 that I made into a CNC setup with all ball screws and Allen Bradley servo motors
Thanks
Ray
 
I know the title is kind of vague but I really haven't made up my mind yet. I was thinking of a side shaft Hit Miss engine, or an overhead cam Hit miss engine , or a marriage of the two so I will just start and see what happens.

I haven't had a lot of shop time with 2 hurricanes and the cleanup afterwards. The tractor fan blade went through the radiator so I had to replace that and the wife keeps finding new projects for me to do but I'm going to start this anyway.
I have had these two weights around for some time and they are of no use like they are so why not make a couple of flywheels.
View attachment 160408


Now I have had good luck machining weights in the past to make flywheels but this time the outer part of the rim was very hard. Carbide inserts would just throw sparks and then give up. The sides machined OK but the rim was made from ???
I had to resort to the tool post grinder for a decent finish on the rim.
View attachment 160409

And the finished product. Two 5" flywheels with taper lock hubs.
View attachment 160410

It's a start.
Thanks for looking
Ray
I have cast several flywheels, from 4 inrch to 16". I learned from experience and reading there can be a an unknown natural phenomonon reason, flywheel rings can be hard.
I make them oversize, and use a disk grinder to remove the outer layer of the ring.
I did a snap test and viewing the cross section proved a shiny skin, which looks like a chill line.
Heat treating flywheels seems to work. Which means putting a flywheel casting back in the furnace to heat and remove-anneal chills and it can change structures like carbide and silicon, which is a thread on it's own.
I use to put vents all around the top of a ring, and learned that where they meet the ring, can get very hard.
A guy taught me to make a thin wider trowel out in the sand in the center line for a vent.
 
I have noticed that the material used for weights can vary quite a bit.
The older weights seem to be pretty good iron, of some type.
I ran across some newer weights that were basically compressed powdered metal, so not very usable for a flywheel.

I suspect the outside of your weight was cooled too fast.
That is one way to get very hard gray iron (chills or hard spots, the hardness of tool steel).

I leave my iron castings in the sand mold overnight, to allow them to cool as slowly as possible.
And I add the correct amount of ferrosilicon, which generally prevents any chills, assuming you cool the casting very slowly.

And the specs on weights may vary quite a bit from standard Class 40 gray iron.
Sash weights in the US are made from garbage metal, which is metal that is not suitable for any other use, and would otherwise be discarded.

Aluminum is the opposite of iron.
You toss aluminum castings in water as soon as they solidify, to cool them as fast as possible, and make them as hard as possible.
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