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I am attempting to build the Kenneth Wells traction engine from his book Step by Step Metalwork 3. i started a Myford Boy traction engine over a year ago and stopped due to needing more experience working with sheet metal and metric dimensions and such. didnt want to destroy the castings i...

i think mine is a phase II six inch same as the Grizly model. but i aways think mine is a tad to big and been thinking of getting a smaller one. so good find i think

one thing i dont know if it has ben mentioned or not but the webster doesnt have a long run duration as it doesnt disapate heat all that well. yes its a solid little engine and i love the valve body setup on it. but some told me and has been my own experience is about 10 mins run time or less...

that photo of my sand was the first batch. i switched to a finer mesh of sand and got mutch better results. so 30% bentonite to 70% sand is to high of bentonite? and thanks for the tip on wetting the sand first and i agree that first batch was to wet. this is my last attempts which are...

was just doing 2 sprues because i didnt know any better. figured better venting? but i have since tried using just a single one and it works just as good so i dont always do that. ill try doing it without a basin next pour i do. which may be some time from now since its down in the 30's and...

good luck on the new knee.

i hesitate to throw my hat into the ring but with respectful hopes of seeing this engine run: i personally have see the bubbles flow the wrong way twice. once was a 2 part issue which was backward starting and completly oposite direction on the cam timing. next was just pure on crappy carb...

ok, so its just the rubbery tension of the silicon around the plug that holds them on and teh spring that conveys the spark to the plug. thats what i always wondered. i made my own once using the vacume hose fitting some others posted further up in your thread and i used a ink pen spring to...

so on those boots. ive seen the posts on making them but wanted to know. is it the tension of the silicon around the plug that actually holds them on the plug or is it a clip on the inside? sort of would like to see how they make contact to the tip of the plug and also what holds them in...

i lapped mine. i made my own crude lap out of a piece of aluminum round stock. drilled and tapped it 1/4 x 20 with a taper tap then sliced it on the band saw long ways twice. then when i start in a 1/4 x 20 bolt in the end it makes it expand as the bolt starts hitting the tapered bottom. i...

on rings, if your buying the ones from otto engine works as plans give a part number for (which is what i used on mine) then you do need to be as per plans call for. i later learned to make my own rings. i bore the cylinder with hopes of getting it spot on size but usually a tad over by...

i have substitued 1215 high phosphur steel in place of 12l14. it machines every bit as good as 12l14 and is much cheaper. leaves a nice bright finish like 12L14 but was a whole lot cheaper to purchase. it still rusts quickly like 12L14 does. was told it was pretty much the unleaded version...

the harbor freight blasting cabinets i have seen use the same rubber gasket that garage doors with windows use. not sure if you looked around the hardware store in that department to see if you could come up with anything

does the window just glue or stick on the outside? or is it like a garage door window that has a rubber gasket that you have to finagle to get a replacement glass back in? for 60.00 though i think you done great

also this will hopefully be my next pour - the cho cho stack to go along with those 2 wheels i cast. below is how i plan to do the mold. is this ok? rough hand drawing with poor diminsions but hopefully close enough to represent the plan. what do you think of this setup for the mold? would...

well, i can certainly put it on a tarp and do this. i have rammed 2 test molds without a pour and 2 test molds both with aluminum pours (discarded the burnt sand each time) but definately cant hurt to ram it more with the truck. probably better that way that sanding the skin off my hands any how

70%sand 30%clay by volume. measuring it out in pint jars. i hand mull it taking hand fulls and rubbing both hands together and letting it fall back in the batch. i use a very large pan to do it in. my fingers and hands cramp up and it definately will wear down some skin along the way...

ill go along with not pounding that new sand hard enough for one thing. where i took a brass tube to vent the center of the wheel - that area came out smoothe as a a babys butt. when it hit the wheel form the texture was not. i mean it was much better with this new finer grain sand the ok85 i...

so im thinking of investing in a pyrometer but have no idea of what to look for. hoping its something i can point and click at the molten metal and not have to insert a probe into it but if thats not possible i can do a probe. but anyone have any recomendations of an entry level one?

Awake, yes you are correct that none in current mint (that i know of) however silver dimes are very common still to find in circulation. learned from my first job that wasnt farming as a teen, i was a bank teller (and not a very good one either) and when a silver dime hit the marble counter...